OUR principal communication from Low­er Canada to the States, is by the way of Lake Champlain and St. Johns, by a water conveyance from Skeensborough, or the roads through Vermont.

Admission into the province of Lower Ca­nada, was secured by the visitants reporting themselves at the Isle of Noix. Their ames are also taken at the custom-house in St. Johns, and a passport obtained into that pro­vince, in order to a proper introduction, ei­ther on business or amusement. A fort, gar­rison, and magazine, are at St. Johns. The trade is inconsiderable. Time and enterprise may convert it into a place of distinction, as it is at the extremity of the northern part of Lake Champlain, where the waters of the river Sorel, formed by the lake, pass into the river St. Laurence.

The rapids not far from St. Johns are not [Page 6] so great, as to impede all communication with the lake and rivers. Rafts constantly pass at the seasons, when the waters are high;— but boats are so far impeded, that merchan­dize is conveyed by land from St. Johns to Chamblee, about nine miles.

A regular stage passes from St. Johns to Montreal, by the way of Lapararie. In the spring of the year the roads are wet and hea­vy; but the excellent Canadian horses, and dexterous drivers, conveyed us in good sea­son to the above village, which is opposite to Montreal.

The decline of day, and the expediency of waiting for the boats, which set out in the morning for the city, tempted us to amuse ourselves with a walk through the settlement, along the pleasant banks of the river.

The most distinguished object is the parish church, situated in a small open square, near the centre. The curate resides near it: His mansion is the public property of the church, and is sufficiently large and commodious.— The church is spacious and venerable, and constructed upon a species of artichecture which is not modern, but so far reduced to rule, as for a long time to please the eye, and [Page 7] entertain the curious. It is strong and lofty. Heavy arches within, support the roof; and the serious mind, cannot fail of being impres­sed with devout sensations, while passing through it. The chancel is well finished, and decorated with carvings, and the furniture upon the altar: A number of historic scrip­ture paintings adorn the walls.

Contiguous to the chapel, is also a female academy, or country nunnery; where the village girls are instructed by their own sex, and others are received as boarders. Besides these, there are about an hundred houses built of stone, or hewn timber, and chiefly made white and plastered with lime.

The whole country is flat; and except the mountain of Montreal, at nine miles distance, the horizon only bounds the view. The island, city, and mountain of Montreal, with a number of other islands, variegate the ex­tensive scene, west and north, from Lapa­rarie.

The conveyance from hence to Montreal, is in flat-bottomed boats, which are managed by the inhabitants with great dexterity.— They pass the rapids safely; and the distance is forgotten, amidst the hilarity and music of [Page 8] these watermen, and the villages on the shore we had [...]oft, and that to which we approach­ed.

This city is defended on the river side by an high wall, and entered by gates. The whole presents an handsome view of well built houses and churches. The streets are regular and commodious. The walls which surround this place, are out of repair: They inclose the public buildings and squares, and the most valuable part of the stores and bu­siness. Extensive suburbs contain the labor­ing people; and when united with the a­bove described part of the city, make it large and respectable.

At the head of the deeper and more navi­gable waters of the river St. Laurence, and at the confluence of the immense lakes, and large rivers, north, west and south-west;— connected with a flourishing country, Mon­treal will ever hold a conspicuous station a­mong the busy towns of North-America.

The merchants who traffic with the Indi­ans, in the north-western country, reside and have their factory here. This valuable busi­ness employs many artists: It may be said to be the main-spring to the mercantile affairs [Page 9] of these regions. Many European mer­chants have settled here, and compose part of the agreeable society we meet with.

The rapid and extensive western settle­ments, since the last war, call for a large supply of merchandize; which is paid for in wheat, lumber, and many other articles of produce, with some furs also.

Great attention is paid to religion by the Catholics. The parish church, in the centre of the city, is a magnificent fabric, and is built of stone, in the form of a cross. Its elegant steeple is covered with tin, and fur­nished with three well-toned bells. A carv­ing of the crucifixion, as large as life, is plac­ed over the chancel, at the east end of the church. The furniture and decorations of the chancel are rich, and the historic scrip­ture paintings numerous, and well executed. In the gallery, at the west end, is a good or­gan.

The sacristee, or vestry room, is large and richly supplied with every thing that is used in the solemnities of their religion. The vest­ments of the priests and ornaments of the altar, are superb. This edifice affords an [Page 10] extensive field, for the curiosities and enqui­ries of a catholic or protestant.

A large painting, which is intended to af­ford an idea of Purgatory, is hung at the right side of the entrance into this building: It exhibits an angelic being, or the divine Saviour descended from an opening cloud, and with a most benign countenance, extend­ing his delivering arm to the distressed, con­demned, and desponding spirits, represented in the lower part of the picture. This group are drawn with a variety of counte­nances; some in all the distortion of agony and despair.—Others, with the cheering lines of hope.—Others, who have passed the season of confinement, are reaching forth their hands, to accept a rescue, by the hea­venly messenger.

The design and execution, are ingenious. The lesson taught from this representation, is obedience to virtue's laws, that we may escape the place of torture, in a future world. In this extensive fabric, all the so­lemnities of religion are celebrated, with great pomp and decorum.

Contiguous to it, and connected by a long covered walk, is the seminary or constant [Page 11] residence of the clergy. They eat at one common table, and have their separate apart­ments for study and retirement, with a com­mon library.

In the rear is a garden, arranged in regu­lar order, stored with much good fruit, and affording a pleasing spot for air and exer­cise.

A college of considerable size in another part of the city, is under care of the clergy. In it, young men are taught the learned lan­guages, and many branches of literature.— Here is a library and good accommodations for the students.

The college, of the order of the Recollett Friars, is out of repair;—the fraternity is almost dissolved, by the death of its mem­bers; as none could be added to it, accord­ing to stipulations at the conquest. Mass is constantly celebrated in their chapel.

The college of the dissolved order of Je­suits, is converted into barracks for soldiers, and a prison. The chapel is repaired and [...], for an English church.

[Page 12]Large gardens are connected with these institutions, and take up a very important and useful part of the city: They however subserve the purposes of health, while the suburbs furnish room for the abodes of the industrious and poor, and gardens for the citizens.

Three nunneries are within the city. One, is devoted to the education of females. Two, are hospitals for the sick, and asylums for the poor. Both are well regulated and valuable institutions. They are supported from the early benefactions of their foun­ders, who were females, and other property owned by their respective communities, joined to their earnings, from various speci­mens of ingenuity, and industry, which they constantly vend.

The nunnery in the city, which is an hos­pital, lost part of its funds in the late seizure of the property of the monastries in France. These women, wishing to preserve their sis­terhood, and to perform the accustomed acts of charity to the sick and poor, supply the deficiency in their present incomes, by mak­ing up the articles of Indian dress, sent by the merchants among the western tribes. This is the chief asylum for the distressed. [Page 13] The nuns have provided an apothecary's room, which is well stored with all necessary medicine, and the king's chief physician, di­rects the administering of it, and constantly visits the patients gratis.

The buildings for courts and public busi­ness, are not distinguished for convenience or taste, while the edifices dedicated to reli­gion and piety, do honor to their proprie­tors.

The market is well furnished with the produce of the season, cheap, good, and in great variety.

The camp-de-mars, or field of military parade, is on the ramparts, near the north gate. It is a pleasant walk, and at the hours of bringing on, and relieving the guards, af­fords a lively scene.

From this city, we have a view of the mountain, which is at a small distance. It is ascended by a good road, which rises gradu­ally, and presents a variety of interesting ob­jects, such as gardens, orchards, and country seats.—From the summit, the eye beholds many lively landscapes.

[Page 14]The city and the islands in the river, or rather lake which surrounds the island and mountain of Montreal, and Isle Jesu, unite in entertaining the sight in endless variety. This is the magazine for fruit, in particular for apples for the province. These are rais­ed in abundance, are excellent in their qua­lity, preserved with ease, and sold at a mo­derate price.

Several parishes and parish churches are on this island. At La'chine is the landing place from the upper countries; the rapids making any further progress towards the city, by water very difficult: Boats are built at this place, and loaded for the Indian and western traffic. A canal is meditated, but not begun, in order to remove the difficulties, which prevent the loading at Montreal:— A convenient valley presents for this pur­pose. The expence would be amply com­pensated by the facility, with which business would then be executed.

The private villas, country houses, gar­dens, and highly cultivated mountain and island, intice the visitor to spend some time among the delightsome scenes. The roads are good in summer and winter. The soil is rich, and air exceedingly salubrious.

[Page 15]A part of the army is stationed at Mon­treal, in barracks erected for the soldiery, under the French administration, and those formed lately in the college of the Jesuits.

An happy harmony prevails among all or­ders of the inhabitants, which are composed of English, French, Scotch and Irish. An urbanity, hospitality, and interesting gentili­ty of manners pervade most classes of people.

Since settlements have been made in the northern parts of Vermont, and its neigh­bourhood, on the Canada side of the line, an extensive traffic has been introduced into this city from thence. This will increase with the population, and for a long time be unri­valled. In case of war, Montreal is exposed to invasions by land, should the States take a share in the contest.

Religion, appears to have its proper influ­ence upon the inhabitants. Churches are thronged: Peace takes place among profes­sors of every name. The clergy are well supplied. The English priests have their re­wards from England, joined to an annual sa­lary paid by their parishoners. The catho­lic ministers have certain rents, which are competent to their necessities. From their [Page 16] wealth and good offices, the poor and dis­tressed find great relief from want and woe. The clergy of all ranks are pious, polite men,—of good learning and abilities.

Some schools are erected under European instructors. Their progress has not yet been such, as to become distinguished seminaries, in the city or its neighbourhood. Females are generally taught in the nunneries, and by an ordinance of the catholic church, boys and girls are not educated in the same school.

After an agreeable abode of a fortnight at Montreal, we set out for Quebec, by the way of William Henry, a town which re­ceived its name from a prince of England, who visited the provinces not many years since. It is situated at the easterly point of land, where the rivers Sorel and St. Lau­rence unite their waters. The ground is advantageous for forming a town. It is laid out for the purpose, and a number of houses are erected. Part of the army are quarter­ed at William Henry to guard the pass to and from the country, by the way of the ri­ver. As settlements increase in Vermont, and on the south side of Canada, near the States, the town of William Henry will in­crease also. The easy water conveyance [Page 17] down the river, impeded only by the rapids above Chamblee, and the small streams and mill seats upon them, will tend to encourage every kind of industry.

The English church is the second that has been built in the province.—A small one had been previously erected on the opposite side of the St. Laurence, rather as a monument or mausoleum for the dead, than a chapel for a numerous congregation.

A minister of the English church, a man of fortune, resides and officiates at William Henry, and among the troops at St. Johns.

The Catholics have a large stone church, which is not far from the mansion of their minister. In no parts of this province, do the Catholics appear negligent in providing for the institutions and support of religion.

This town is about forty miles below Mont­real. As we came hither by water, we were constantly amused with a pleasant country: Villages are in view on both sides of the ri­ver: Many of them are decorated with spires made brilliant by a covering of tin.

[Page 18]For their better accommodation with wa­ter, the inhabitants build their houses near the banks of the river, and their farms are consequently narrow in front, & their houses not far from each other. These are formed of stone or square timber;—being made white with lime, the contrast between them, and the verdure of the trees and fields, causes a picture-like scene. We in reality passed one continued village.

A decent, respectful affability of manners, prevails among the French peasantry; the roads and houses being near the margin of the water, we frequently conversed with the inhabitants on the shore.

Our waterman were civil and attentive.— We were often indulged by them, with a French song, and with gratification saw their attention to their religion, as they passed the churches. These they visited at the hours of devotion.

Having spent some days at William Henry, we proceeded down the river; but having reached the center of the Lake of St. Peter, a south wind caused a dangerous swell, and we landed at the river De Loup, from whence we took carriages, and were conveyed to Three Rivers.

[Page 19]The islands formed at the mouth of the river Sorel, extend from William Henry to the Lake. They are flat, variegated by trees, cultivated fields, and small farm houses. Our passage in different directions, among these islands, and the width of the Lakes, deprived us of our former views of the country; but these were exchanged for objects equally a­musing, as the islands afford a great variety.

The town called Three Rivers, is built upon a rising ground: The front towards the river, is generally a high steep bank of sand and gravel. It is the only place of conse­quence, as to trade, on the north side of the river St. Laurence, between Montreal and Quebec. While the province was under the administration of the French, some superior civil and military officers resided at Three Rivers. A large parish church, a nunnery which is an hospital, and place for female e­ducation, are possessed by the Catholics.— The college erected by the Jesuits, is now a prison, and place for public offices. Its cha­pel is improved, partly for civil courts and a congregation of Protestants of the English church. This union of religion and law▪ under one roof, is uncommon. The chancel is circular, and converted into very commo­dious seats, for judges, jurors, and other at­tendants [Page 20] upon judicial proceedings. On the south side of the same chapel is erected a de­cent pulpit, reading desk and pews.

This town enjoys some trade with the In­dians, who often visit it with their furs, belts, and other manufactures. The soil of the neighbouring country is barren and sandy.— About nine miles in its rear is a large settle­ment formed by a furnace, which is the chief factory for cast iron. From hence, the whole northern country is furnished with that im­mense supply of stoves, so universally used in those provinces. European artists, distin­guished for their ingenuity, are employed as superintendants and conductors of this exten­sive business. In every part, ability, and en­terprize are discovered, and a better regu­lated factory need not be sought for in North-America.

The mechanism of the extensive works,— the mode in which water is conveyed to the various parts where it is wanted, cause great dispatch in business.

The town of Three Rivers, obtained its name from its neighbourhood to the river, which has two islands at its mouth, as it enters the ri­ver [Page 21] St. Laurence, and this forms the appear­ance of three streams.

The central situation of this town, between the cities of Montreal and Quebec, has led many to project the erection of a college in it, for the instruction of young men.

An English clergyman, and two Catholic ministers, reside here upon handsome stipends raised by their respective communities.

Locations are made in the lands south of Three Rivers, on the opposite shore, and a communication between Canada and the States, will shortly be opened from thence by the way of the river Connecticut.

The road from the river De Loup to this place is good, and like the country already described, well settled and well cultivated. We passed the late cantonments of those call­ed the loyal corps, during the late war, and the guards on the point of the Lake of St. Pe­ter, where the waters assume a narrower course, and become part of the river St. Lau­rence.

A new scene opened upon our arrival at Quebec, the key into the province by water, [Page 22] and the theatre of many military operations, where the members of two European nations have ruled, and the inhabitants of the States have distinguished themselves by their va­lor.

Unfavorable winds, and the impediments of a tide, frequently detained us on our way to this city, as the waters flow up the river as far as Three Rivers.—This left us to at­tend to its progress, and to regulate our voyage accordingly.

From Montreal to Quebec, we have again found an almost continued village. Good ac­commodations by night and day, and easy conveyances by land and water, all at a mo­derate price.

Religion appears truly venerable not only in its temples and other edifices, but in the hospitality, politeness and genteel de deport­ment of most of its professors. To the clergy and other gentlemen of rank and informati­on, we have been indebted for many civili­ties.—At Cape Santa and Point-au-Tremble, we were politely entertained, while the winds and tide delayed our voyage. The first of these villages, is made conspicuous at a con­siderable [Page 23] distance, by a large church adorned with five steeples—all covered with tin.

This temple stands on a rising ground, and was founded by three ladies of great estate—It is called the Church of the Three Sisters, in commemoration of this their piety. It ranks in size with the Cathedral of Que­bec, and the parish church of Montreal.

Point au-Tremble is eighteen miles from Quebec. The late suffragan or assistant bishop, called the coadjutor, resided in this parish.—He was greatly esteemed by Lord Dorchester and the court at Quebec. Through the influence of this nobleman, that worthy prelate was advanced to the Episcopal chair. He attended Lord Dorchester on a voyage to England, and was formerly a Catholic mis­sionary among the Indians at Penobscot, in the State of Massachusetts and received a sti­pend from to the general court there for those services. A specimen of policy or libe­rality at that time, which is to be applauded, but not easily accounted for. This dignitary joined to a zealous attachment to his religi­ous profession, the christian, gentleman, the friend of learning, and patron of useful arts, and men of merit. He died in Quebec, and the curate of Longuile near Montreal, was elected to the same dignity.

[Page 24]The bishops of the Catholic church pre­serve the succession of episcopal power with great care, and no one is consecrated without the approbation of the bishop of Rome, and the governor of Canada.

Thus preserving the distinction of ecclesi­astical powers, the rights of patronage, and the duties of allegiance, and removing jea­lousies and discontents on all sides.

One bishop only is necessary, to deliver the sacerdotal power to another, and a suf­fragan is always elected upon the decease of either of the two, that the diocese may not be destitute of a superior. The other bishop resides with the clergy in the seminary of Quebec. His former palace is converted in­to land and other offices, and its chapel into a court or parliament house. The clergy teach a number of young men in the semina­ry, and are the principal instructors through the province.

It is a common place remark that the cler­gy of the church of Rome, wish to keep the people in ignorance. This charge has given offence in Canada. At the first settlement of this province, large reservations of lands were made, for the promotion of learning, [Page 25] and commodious and excellent colleges were erected. These were under the superintend­ance of the society of Jesuits. Instructors were placed and every needful endowment and arrangement made for disseminating knowledge. But, upon surrendering of the province to the British, after the conquest, these colleges were converted into barracks and prisons, both in Montreal and Quebec. The funds are appropriated to other uses af­ter the decease of the longest liver of the fra­ternity.

All attempts to erect substitutes for these, have been abortive. The nation of England has not made amends for the loss, and the Catholics have been defeated and chagrined. —The Anglo-Americans who abode by the British standard, and wished to provide for the education of their children in Canada, have endeavoured to form academies and schools after the example of the States. The Catholic bishop has been consulted, and he gave his opinion without reserve, that the colleges and property of the Jesuits ought to be restored to their original uses in promot­ing knowledge;—that they were amply ade­quate to every purpose. He was asked to give a statement of the present revenues of [Page 26] the clergy, with a hope, that a fund might be raised from thence for the purpose. His answer was, that the incomes of the clergy, were barely sufficient for their necessities,— that these depended upon certain parts of the products of the country, which were fre­quently diminished by blast, drought, and unfruitful seasons,—that the clergy were constantly obliged to resign their dues to re­lieve the poor, and thus neglecting exacting justice for themselves.

After deliberating on the subject, the go­vernor and the English party relinquished the design. Colleges are not erected. Young men are sent into England and the States for education. The clergy of the Romish church proceed to educate all who are plac­ed under their care, and some Protestant schools are taught in the towns of Montreal, William Henry, Three Rivers, and Quebec.

This last city is composed of two parts, called the Upper and Lower town. The lat­ter is erected under a precipice, and upon the beach on the banks of the river. It is connected with the upper town, by a wind­ing street, and a foot way up winding stairs. In it are the public and private stores and wharves. The depth of the water, the height [Page 27] to which it rises, and the commodious beach formed during the ebb of the tide, afford ma­ny conveniencies to facilitate business. One street of houses, with the above stores and wharves, compose the principal part of the lower town.

The upper town is built upon an emi­nence which commands the country and ri­ver. The fortifications are strong, the city is entered by gates, and must be reduced on­ly by great military force, regular siege, and persevering operations. Every apparatus and and provision for its defence, are prepared and in readiness, in great quantities. Sur­prize, stratagem, and starvation, are scarcely practicable, especially when the rigors of winter, are to be surmounted by assailants and besiegers.

Within the walls, are the chatteau or go­vernor's house, all public offices, the church­es, seminary, Jesuits and Recolletts colleges, and two nunneries.

The chatteau is a large stone building, with a commodious spot as a court yard, or place of parade in front towards the town. Joined to this, is a large dining or banquet­ing hall: On the summit of an inaccessible [Page 28] precipice in front from this house and its gardens, we view the country east, and south across the river, and the whole of the lower town.

The most remarkable building in Quebec, is the Cathadral church, which is large, and attended by a numerous congregation. It is well adorned at the east end near the al­tar, but doth not make the same splendid appearance, with the parish church of Mon­treal.

The seminary and former college of the Jesuits are large. Elegant chapels are join­ed to each of them. The Recolletts college and chapel have been demolished by fire, and are in ruins. The nunneries are also large: One is a place of female education, the other is an hospital: A third is without the city, and an hospital. These instituti­ons, the property of females,—the recepta­cle for the sick and wounded, are conducted with great order and economy. Human woes are alleviated by them in a manner, that does honor to human nature and religi­on. They contain large apartments for sick men, and sick women. They are the only alms houses in the province, and are sup­ported from the property of the nuns. [Page 29] These women are the nurses and attendants. Apothecaries' rooms, supplied with medi­cine are in each, superintended by a nun. This is her principal employment. The hospital rooms are connected with the cha­pels, and by the opening of folding doors the sick may attend the devotions. They are screened from public view by a curtain and lattice work. Great gracity and deco­rum are observed through the whole. On the side opposite to the apartments of the sick, is the chapel of the nuns, opened and secured in the same manner. The main cha­pel is accessible to all visitors, as are the churches through the province. Such sacred respect for religion, and such integrity pre­vail, that the churches are open night and day. The hand of sacrilege, has seldom de­prived the temples of the smallest article. Contiguous to each of the colleges and nun­neries, are gardens which occupy a conside­rable part of Quebec. Many private gar­dens are also within the city. Perhaps no more ground is taken up in these, than is ne­cessary to preserve the health.

Fires have frequently ravaged the upper and lower town, and the suburbs.

[Page 30]The most memorable spot contiguous to Quebec, is Abraham's plain. This is an ex­tensive flat ground about a mile in width, extending in a line with the river towards the south-west. Near the river the bank rises suddenly, and forms a precipice not ea­sily to be ascended. On the north side, this hill gradually descends to the river St. Charles. The neighbouring region then rises in a gen­tle slope, and we are entertained with a view of the pleasant country, farm houses, and villages, until the prospect is lost in the dis­tant hills and the horizon. On this plain Wolf fell. The spot is shewn, but is not marked by any monument to distinguish it. He landed at a place now called Wolf's cove, made by the river, covered by the circular form of the neighbouring height or precipice. He ascended by an hollow way, which na­ture had formed by a small rivulet caused by rains from the water collected on the plain.

Nature had thus prepared a landing place and a pass from the beach, which was cover­ed from the view of the besieged, and gave an opportunity to surprize the enemy within the walls.

[Page 31]The public road runs along this plain, and is decorated with gentlemen's country seats and fertile fields.

Beyond this cove is Powel place, the resi­dence of the Protestant bishop. It is an ele­gant house, and the farm and gardens are in English style.

A large area in front, with irregular clus­ters of trees, a walk on the banks of the ri­ver, and the descent by steps, lead the visitor around a seat of the greatest distinction in the neighbourhood.

In surveying Abraham's plain, we were pointed to the places where Montgomery, Wooster, and others quartered and carried on their military operations.

The country around Quebec exhibits many enchanting prospects. The villages and set­tlements across the St. Laurence, towards point Levi and the States—the isle of Or­leans—the country towards the falls of Mont­morency—Dorchester bridge—and the nun­nery without the city, give beauty to exten­sive prospects. The falls of Montmorency, at the distance of seven miles, tempted us to [Page 32] a ride through the French villages and farms east of the city.

This admired prospect is made on a small river, which descends at least two hun­dred feet in one sheet of water. A bason below receives it, and it is conveyed from thence a small distance into the river St. Lau­rence. We beheld the beauties of this place from a summer house, which General Haldi­mand erected over the river, to which we descended by several flights of steps, made of wood, by some ingenious artist. This sum­mer-house is really hung over the river, and the fall must be from the above height, whenever it gives way to the decay of time. The varied tinges of the rainbow, formed amidst the water and vapours in a clear day; the diminished stature of the fishermen be­low, and the ingenuity of the artist, afforded us much amusement.

This house is elegant, but not large.—It is accommodated with all the offices needful for a place of retreat for an hour or a night: It is too costly for a peasant and man of bu­siness, and is not sufficiently commodious for the permanent residence of a gentleman of leisure, rank, or fortune. Much taste is dis­played, [Page 33] and some considerable expence has been bestowed in decoration.

The Indian village of Lorette is visited by strangers, where intercourse with civilized nations, and the superintendance of the Ca­tholic clergy, exhibited the descendents of the aboriginals of America in a well regulated settlement; pious, industrious, and moral.— A chapel, parson's house, and the usual in­stitutions of this country, for the benefit of its inhabitants, are found in this place also.

Referring particular remarks upon the customs, manners, and peculiarities of this country to the close of this work, we proceed to other parts of the provinces.

Upon leaving Quebec, we revisited some of the country through which we passed on our way thither. We found the river Sorel to be much narrower than the St. Laurence, and the margin equally well filled and deco­rated with handsome villages, through a fer­tile country▪ An uniformity of fashion pre­vails in their churches and houses—but the variety of views is great. The narrowness of the river presented objects on each side, as we progressed slowly against the stream.

Bellevieu and the neighbouring mountain, [Page 34] exhibit an alluring, noble prospect. This mountain rises in a conical form, and is con­spicuous at a great distance. Apple and o­ther fruit-trees flourish upon it, and it is not inhabited except in a few places.

Chamblee Bason at the head of navigation, is about one mile across. Its form is circular, and its banks inhabited. A church and vil­lage on one side, and an old stone fortification on the other, and the entering of the waters from Lake Champlain, down the rapids, give variety to the objects which engrossed our attention. The fort is square, inclosing a barrack, and guarding the water conveyance and entrance by land.

The rapids are seldom passed except in the spring, and some have projected a mode of clearing out the rocks. Time will, by some work of art, open an easy water communi­cation between the river and lake.

Very costly and excellent mills are erected on the side of these rapids. The carrying place from hence to St. Johns is about eight miles. The road is good, boats are often taken across, and but little interruption to travellers takes place between Lake Cham­plain and Quebec.

[Page 35]Lower Canada appears upon examination, to enjoy as many of the blessings of life, as are needful to make man happy. The go­vernment is mild and energetic. The anci­ent French code, and the present system of English laws, are conducted in such a mode as to secure the citizens at large, in every valuable right. A representation, by the e­lection of the people in a provincial legisla­ture, and the privilege of trial by jury, are established by the constitution.

The civil and military list are maintained by the British nation, and the people pay few or no taxes to defray the expenses of go­vernment. Salaries are paid to the English clergy, and to some of the Catholic and Pres­byterian ministers, by the crown.

The militia are officered by men elected from among themselves, and their respective companies have alarm posts assigned, and the officers residence is marked by a pole with an evergreen top. In this mode, in all cases of distress and danger, a resort is immediately pointed out, for the inhabitant and stranger.

To the south-east of this place near the States, settlements are rapidly forming with­in the province. The settlers are chiefly from [Page 36] the loyalists of the late army, and emigrants from New-England. Already has consider­able land been improved and brought into cultivation, and as these extend along the lines, and advance toward the river St. Lau­rence, they will greatly increase the prospe­rity of this province.

The hardy manners and industry, the suc­cessful mode of clearing lands, in which the northern colonists excel, give them many ad­vantages. They cultivate the older farms, through the ancient settlements, among the French inhabitants better, and landholders in general prefer such upon their estates.

This province, affords as many of the real enjoyments of life, and the people are as hap­py, peaceable, and prosperous as in any part of North-America. Few conquered coun­tries have been better protected or governed. Religion, while it restrains the people with­in the bounds of morality, has a large share in teaching them to obey government. The principles of liberty and religion, which have placed all power in the hands of the people, and destroyed many of the laws and customs of countries governed by absolute monarchs, and nobles and clergy with superior pow­ers, are gradually extending: This in con­sequence [Page 37] of the use and administration of the English laws and their opinions, customs, manners and religion.

The monastic orders decrease gradually, and few offer themselves for admission into the nunneries. The order of Friars and Je­suits were permitted to enjoy their estates at the conquest, but to enrol no more in their fraternities. These orders are therefore al­most extinct.

An order called the grey nuns, are school mistresses, who instruct the girls only in the French and Indian villages. They are not confined to the cloister, and are very atten­tive to their pupils whom they early initiate into an acquaintance with the catachisms, smaller rituals, and the principles of religion. They have maid-servants who attend their domestic concerns, and the institutions may be considered as well regulated boarding schools.—Females who perform the more la­borious part of the economy of the nunne­ries, are called Lay Sisters, and have not taken the vow of single life.

Protestanism has made but little pro­gress. The universal toleration which is esta­blished [Page 38] by law,—the peaceable temper of the governors of the Catholic church,—and the civil and military characters at the head of the province, have preserved general har­mony.

The English bishop in Quebec is a gen­tleman of great learning, eminently qualifi­ed for his office. His moderation and discre­tion are very acceptable to all parties. So little zeal for proselyting from the Catholics has prevailed, that more have joined these from the Protestants than have been con­verts to the English church or the Presbyte­rians.

Although a bishop, priest, and deacon of­ficiate in Quebec, yet an English church has not been erected for the use of the English congregation, and divine service is celebrat­ed in a Catholic chapel. The politeness and hospitality of the clergy were displayed in a manner which demands our highest acknow­ledgments of gratitude.

Our very genteel reception by the assistant bishop of the Catholic church, opened a source for much information. We found him easy of access, affable, and dignified in his manners. He also performed the duties [Page 39] of a parish priest and received a reward not superior to most of that order. He frequent­ly administered medicine to the sick, having been called in his missions to study the heal­ing art.

By his letter we became acquainted with the bishop of Quebec, a much esteemed ec­clesiastic. In Quebec we met these dignita­ries together at the seminary, and dined with the former at the chief justice's, in company with three of the clergy of France, gentle­men of distinguished rank, learning, and abi­lities.

The intercourse among all descriptions of the heads of departments and communities is such, as displays great order and confi­dence among each other, with a happy ef­fect upon the people and subordinate nati­ons.

The common habit of a bishop is a purple stuff, with a velvet collar and cuffs. A gold cross about three inches long is worn around his neck, and a broad silk sash with gold tassels at the ends around his waist. This dress is fitted to the body but spreads in the skirt, reaching to the feet. It is closed from the neck to the bottom with a large number [Page 40] of buttons. The habit of the inferior clergy is black, but is similar in its fashion.

On our return from Quebec, we found the bishop at Point-au-Tremble, celebrating the anniversary of his consecration, attended by the head of the Recolletts, three of the clergy from France, and some of the parish clergy from the city and neighbourhood.— Perfect ease prevailed among all. Towards the evening the bishop accompanied us to the banks of the river, attended by the head of the Recolletts, a gentleman far advanced in life, but retaining a fund of vivacity, and a sprightly fancy and humour, which make his company acceptable in all circles.

When the sun was near setting the parish bell rung, and the company taking off their hats, conversation was suspended and devo­tion engrossed a few minutes. This appear­ed to be a signal for presenting devout thanksgivings to the Father of mercies, and is observed accordingly by the whole parish and country.

In the chapel a body of Indian men, wo­men, and children were upon their knees, to­tally absorbed in presenting their evening adorations. We passed them, apparently [Page 41] without being noticed, and as far as external deportment authorized us to judge of the employment of the heart, no supplicants could be more sincerely devout. They were part of a tribe who were upon a visit to the bishop their former priest, and were treated with great tenderness and kindness by him­self and his family.

The weather was pleasant and we had seen them in their encampment near the margin of the river. They had made their voyage in a birch canoe, which was now their shel­ter from the sun. The women were busy in manufacturing articles for sale in birch bark, which they decorate with the porcupine's quill—Diligence and innocence marked their demeanor. These temporary defences by their canoes are made more convenient, by the birch bark which they carry with them; which answers as a floor to sleep upon, or as tents to ward off the wind and rain. The birch canoes are made of the bark of that tree and are of different dimensions. Those used in the North-western trade are large: They are constructed for expeditious sailing, —are light, and easily conveyed over porta­ges or carrying places. Great attention must be paid to the motion at entering or while [Page 42] within them, as the smallest accident will overturn them if this is not observed. When they are properly loaded and ballasted, they are safe and pass dangerous rapids without difficulty or damage.

While the Canadian men have not gene­rally the benefits of schools, and want colle­ges and instructors, the women are well edu­cated in the city and country nunneries. The ursuline nuns teach in the cities and towns, and the grey nuns in the country.

The country nunneries are large well built houses, with gardens and needful court yards for safety, exercise and ornament. One of these is to be found in every village. Girls from a distance are received as boarders, and the village girls as day scholars.—They retire at regular hours and are removed at the pleasure of parents. Being contiguous to the chapel of the neighbourhood, all at­tend devotions, morning and evening. The effect is pleasing, as the women obtain good educations in reading, writing, and many of the useful and ornamental branches of indus­try which are peculiar to the sex.

Religion is venerated in every quarter— Its temple, its humane, and benevolent in­stitutions—Its [Page 43] monuments and memoran­dums in cities and countries are numerous. Historic paintings and pictures cover the walls, and the crosses by the way constantly lead the mind to devout reflections. It would be foreign from the design of this work to enter upon a detail of the peculiari­ties in the opinion and rights of the Catholic church, which we call superstitious. Many ingenious arguments are given for their faith and institutions. Protestants when they striped the churches of historic scripture paintings, deprived themselves not only of the rich productions of eminent artists, but of valuable means for instruction. The animated canvas in Catholic countries, gives us more just and lively ideas of the nativity, resurrection, and ascension of our Lord, than can be afforded by the tongue or pen of the learned, nay, than by the language of scripture itself. That the painter has given us the scene in reality is not pretended, but as exact a representation of it as human in­genuity can devise. To this custom of deco­rating churches it is to be attributed, that Italy produced so many eminent painters, and became a school for men of that profes­sion. The charge of idolatry, has been car­ried in the opinion of sober Protestants, be­yond all bounds of decency. The represen­tation [Page 44] of the person or event is preserved to instruct and solemnize. The most powerful arguments are used to deter the people from praying to images or pictures.

While candor and charity lead us not to censure or condemn what we are not tho­roughly acquainted with, we should guard against those violences and convulsions, which would make a prey of professors of religion of any kind to gratify spleen, bigotry, ava­rice, or any hateful passion. Reformation is to be effected by wisdom, gentleness, pati­ence, and more exemplary piety.

Travelling in this province is easy and expeditious. A public mail-stage runs from St. Johns to Quebec: A calesche, a species of chaise or chair drawn by one horse, is used by all classes of citizens. These are to be had at most of the peasants' houses, and ob­tained at pleasure in the cities. For a mo­derate price travellers are conveyed in them sixty miles a day— As the driver passes the churches and crosses, he checks the speed of the horse and stops for a minute, and taking off his hat repeats a small prayer, and repla­ces it upon his head and drives on. Some have profanely resisted and ridiculed this practice; but to be conducted as a stranger [Page 45] by attendants, who constantly pay their ho­mage to the Creator and Preserver of men, must console every considerate mind▪ It is more commendable to encourage such devo­tions, than to interrupt them and give need­less offence

Water conveyances in small and large ves­sels are also constant between the cities of Montreal and Quebec. Whenever wind or tide detained us contrary to our inclination, we found ready transportation by the pea­sants on the land.

Water voyages are peculiarly entertaining. The expedition and convenience by which they are conducted, lead many to prefer this mode. The canoes and flat bottomed boats pass safely and are managed with dexterity. To the orderly and respectful deportment of the boatmen in general, they joined a scru­pulous demeanor as they passed the churches and monuments of religion. The watermen constantly amused us with their singing in a measure which is harmonious, and animates them to greater dexterity and expedition.

The foregoing describes a summer's visit and tour. A winter is scarcely less pleasant: The country is then covered with snow—the [Page 46] waters congealed, and pleasure and business create an active season. The roads are good: Fat horses and good sleighs, called carioles, are plenty. Dressed in fur and prepared for the climate, the cold and storm makes but little impression—They cause but little com­plaint by either night or day, and the houses being heated by stoves a temperature is form­ed to that degree, which causes flowers to appear in full bloom, and citron trees are to be found which have not been injured by frost for many years.

With a warm dress, a buffaloe skin over our feet and lap, a fur cap, muff, mittens and buskin lined with fur, we visited the vil­lage of the Algonguin and Irrioquois In­dians, about 40 miles from Montreal—This is the residence of the descendants and rem­nant of two tribes, who dwell in two streets or small cantonments in houses formed of hewn timber closed with lime. The distance between these cantonments is but a few rods. In each is a small chapel of a regular form, about fifteen feet square. These edifices are frequent in these provinces, and they are im­proved in the Catholic processions, in villa­ges, as a substitute for large churches in the cities. Certain solemnities are attended in them on public festivals.

[Page 47]The Indians appear to be totally convert­ed to christianity, and reduced to order un­der the government. No attendants upon religious worship can be more punctual or reverential, and the singing of their women is soft and enchanting. The large chapel is decorated with a number of excellent historic representations taken from sacred scripture. The altar, vestry room, vestments of the priests, and the furniture at large used in this temple, are exceeded by few of the French churches.

The Indians do not confine their devotions to the public assembling in the church, but are punctual in their morning and evening ejaculations before and after their meals, and in all cases of difficulty and danger.

After the season of hunting expires, these two tribes return to their village:—One of them permits the women and children to at­tend them into the forest:—In the other, the women abide at home. In summer the land is cultivated, and bread and many other ne­cessaries raised for their consumption during the year. They have horses and other cat­tle, and vehicles for winter travelling. The women are diligent in their domestic con­cerns, and manufacture belts, mockasons, and [Page 48] various parts of the clothing of their fami­lies. Furs and skins are dressed by these people, and their whole time appears to be industriously employed in the manufactures peculiar to themselves. A large surplus is sold to the merchants in this village and Mon­treal. Traders are established in all these settlements, who enjoy a lucrative traffic and possess the confidence of the Indians.

The felicity and prosperity which prevail, afford strong arguments in support of the po­licy of both the French and English govern­ments, and the good effect of the Catholic religion. These tribes are useful auxiliaries in all confusions with the western tribes, and are employed as ambassadors and runners.

About forty miles above this settlement, plantations are forming on the Ottawais ri­ver into a region but little known until late years. A large country is now opening by water upon this river, which will be the prin­cipal channel of communication with the north-western country. The neighbourhood of this territory to Montreal, and the easy communication by water to every part of the provinces, make it very valuable.

At the mouth of this river is the Lake of [Page 49] the two mountains, known by its vicinity to two high hills, which are to be seen at a con­siderable distance. Many fertile islands and small streams are connected with this Lake and the river.

Opposite to this Indian village is a French settlement, to which we passed thro' an ave­nue of evergreens of about twelve feet in height, placed in the ice, in regular order, equi-distant from each other. This is a com­mon practice, and very necessary where roads are exposed to be destroyed by new snows, or the traveller may lose his way in a storm.

A stone fortification formerly defended the entrance into the lake and river at this place, and some of its remains are to be seen, contiguous to the chapel and parish house. These are erected on a point of land, where commanding views present in every directi­on.—Time may make this a place of impor­tance, and a large city may be formed where the natives have resided unmolested for ma­ny years. A road is opened from Montreal in the rear, and a winter journey is made across the islands and frozen waters in front.

[Page 50]The customs and manners of the Indians, have been very generally and accurately des­cribed by those who first visited them, in what we call, their rude and savage state— An intercourse with those who have emi­grated from Europe, has changed the scene in some degree among the tribes in Canada. They have assumed the short furtout which is generally used by the peasantry. The children are nursed upon a board, and the blanket is retained by men, women and chil­dren, as the outer garment in rain or cold. The Indian stocking and mockasins, are well adapted to the climate. The French peasants wear a shoe of tanned leather, constructed in the same form.

The French government, early counte­nance matrimonial alliances with the natives, and a great similarity of features and com­plexion appear in all parts of the country, through which we have passed. This affi­nity is evident in both the French and Indi­an settlements, and men and women of these respective tribes and nations, live happily together in domestic and matrimonial state. Their progeny marry together as children of one common family. Was this virtuous and rational matrimonial alliance encourag­ed, by the European emigrants into the [Page 51] American regions north and south, many confusions and outrages would be prevent­ed.

From this village we passed through French settlements into the upper province, and the townships possessed by the late loy­al corps and the adventurers from Europe and the States. People of every language and nation, have came hither and formed prospering colonies. Heaven has blessed their labors, industry, and enterprize. Few have experienced greater success. The na­tion of England has fostered them with great care, and bestowed rations of provisions, clothing, materials for house building, hus­bandry tools, and continued the pay of the late officers and soldiers for three years. Each of the emigrants also had a quantity of land bestowed upon them.

In return for this bounty, the nation vends her manufactures, and must enjoy a lucra­tive commerce with countries that are in­creasing in wealth and numbers, whose con­sumption of foreign commodities will in­crease in proportion also. The advantages to the nation from this justice, policy, and this mode of colonizing will be immense. The country is fertile, well timbered and water­ed. [Page 52] Commodious locks are formed near the rapids, which facilitate transportation. The winter is peculiarly favorable for convey­ing the produce of the country and commo­dities of the merchant to market, as the roads are good, the country flat, and waters frozen.

At St. Regis on the south side of the ri­ver, a number of Indians reside in a small town, built of hewn timber, who are occu­pied in hunting, fishing, farming, and the manufactures of their tribes. The most dis­tinguished object in this place is a very large Catholic church, inferior to few in size, which has been lately built by the Indians themselves, with a small assistance from the clergy and some gentlemen of rank and for­tune. Men, women, and children in this village assisted the masons and carpenters in procuring timber, stone, and lime, and in every possible part of the labour.

It is a work which does honour to their zeal, and is an ornament to a very pleasant country, contiguous to fertile islands, and the waters of the river St. Laurence. Moun­tains towards to the southwest are seen, which are in the State of New-York, and neighbourhood of Lake Champlain—Roads [Page 53] from hence, and from an American planta­tion, making on the side of the States oppo­site Johnstown, or Oswegatche, will expedite the communication with Albany and New-York, and shorten the present route more than one hundred miles. The country is well calculated for this purpose.

The British nation pay a salary to the Catholic minister of St. Regis, and a Pres­byterian minister on the opposite shore. At Cornwall and Johnstown, they are about to erect and maintain churches and academies. and a sum is assigned for the purpose.

Kingston is a considerable town in the Upper province. It is erected near the old fort, called Frontinac, part of which remains with the barracks, and are improved by the garrison which is stationed there. Many large houses, stores, and some convenient wharves are built near the river or lake. Being at the extremity of that inland sea, called the Lake Ontario, and near the outlet from thence which forms the river St. Lau­rence, this must be a town of considerable importance. A number of large vessels are constantly passing from hence in every direc­tion across the Lake, and boats are arriving [Page 54] to, and passing from hence and Montreal. The country is clearing and cultivating. Numerous bays and rivers are connected with the Lake, and wealth must reward the industry of a busy, enterprising people. Wheat, lumber, cattle, horses, and pot-ashes, will compose the principal exports. The constant influx of inhabitants will for a long time, consume the produce of the far­mer, and spare the trouble of exportation, With the numbers that have entered these regions, government has been established. similar in its form to the constitution of En­gland, and the other royal governments▪ the civil, military, and ecclesiastical officers are chiefly supported by the crown, and the Legislature meet [...] on the other side of the Lake.

An English church is erected, and a mis­sionary, who is the bishop's commissary, is inducted into the cure—He visits the Mo­hawk Indians, and has translated the gospels and liturgy into that language.

The object of the British nation, is to peo­ple and cultivate this country, and to make it as perfect a part of the empire as possible. Dreading revolutions they are cautious in receiving republicans from the States, and [Page 55] wish to encourage husbandmen and labour­ers only.—Clergymen, lawyers, physicians, and school-masters from the States, are not the first characters who would be fostered. Many congregations would have been form­ed, and schools opened, if the policy in this particular had been different.

An extensive field is opened for men of letters is every profession. Destitute of col­leges, academies and schools, and confiding in the qualifications of the clergy ordained by the bishops in the States, governor Sim­coe wished to have introduced such, but an act of the British parliament disconcerted his design.

When the bishops of England were per­mitted to consecrate bishops for the States, a clause was inserted, in the act passed by parliament for the purpose, that nothing therein contained should enable such "bi­shops or clergymen ordained by them, to exercise their functions, within the limits of the nation." This act was drawn by the arch-bishop of Canterbury, and has been obstinately adhered to.

While the States are open to the clergy from England, and some since the peace and [Page 56] the above law, have been received into our parishes; the clergy born and ordained in the States are excluded from the parishes in the provinces.

Some of the latter, by reason of our po­pular elections, have given way to these e­migrants from Europe, to the distress of these American clergymen, and not for the greater good of our flocks. By means of this law, these new countries have been destitute of ministers, and lament their exposure to the inroads of infidelity and enthusiasm.

Wise dignitaries and able statesmen on both sides of the Atlantic; christian ministers and professors agree, that the law is illebe­ral, unchristian and unequal. Much com­plaint and clamour have arisen, but no re­medy has been provided.—In the provinces, they say that clergymen from Europe are not acquainted sufficiently with the customs, manners, and habits of Americans, to serve with them successfully. In the States, it is agreed that this law, and our unrestrained [...] of receiving clergymen from the Bri­tish nation, is not consonant with the opini­ons of our country as to aliens, and the prac­tice of the Europeans, in their respective countries, who retain all places of influence, [Page 57] honor, and profit in the hands of their own sons and citizens.—The unity of the christi­an church in heart, faith and devotion, is too far sacrificed to State policy and Ecclesi­astical establishments. This law has certain­ly defeated the extending of religion and learning in the provinces.

All the attornies in this province have not been regularly bred to the profession. Ma­ny are admitted to the bar, because they have been adherents to the government, and reside in particular neighbourhoods, where a practioner is wanted. The order of attor­nies is not numerous in Canada. Men of dis­tinguished talents and acquirements are in the profession, and justice is well administer­ed.—Controversies among the Catholics, are generally adjusted by the clergy, and litiga­tions are not frequent. Pension, place, and favor are reserved for the English and Scotch adventurers, and the sons of Oxford and Cambridge.

A taste for literature, and desire after men­tal and other improvements is prevalent, and science will extend its happy effects among these new settlements.

[Page 58]Mechanics of every kind are established— Ship builders and mill-wrights have pro­duced excellent specimens of their abilities. Most of the mills which are erected upon the larger streams and mill seats, are the labors of ingenuity, and bring profit to the propri­etors.

A water voyage through these provinces from Kingston to Montreal is enchanting and entertaining,—cheap and expeditious— while much delay and many impediments, put the patience to the proof, in attempts to pass into the country against the stream.

New objects present every moment to draw the attention: The river,—the broad­er waters of the Lake of St. Francis,—the rapids and islands, are full of novelty.

Among the first which attract notice, is a cluster called the Thousand Islands, where at least that number are collected together, not far from Lake Ontario, of various forms and sizes. Sometimes they are exhibited in a regular line, and then surround us, where to a stranger, no certain outlet appears. These islands are not inhabited except by birds and wild animals. Fish are taken in abundance in most of the northern waters.

[Page 59]The rapids at the outlet of the Lake of St. Francis,—below the cedars,—and at the cascade, are entertaining to the eye, but cause the heart to tremble. These the Indians en­counter without damage or much anxiety: No adventure appears to be more hazard­ous; but the skilful Indian navigator con­ducted us safely through all. To the Ca­tholic priests we were indebted, for recom­mending such for boatmen, as were tempe­rate and faithful. Upon our parting with our attendants, they generally asked whe­ther we were satisfied, and they had fulfilled their engagements?—This is a practice a­mong both French and Indians, and renders travelling more pleasant, where such per­sons may be called to respond for insolence or dishonesty, and by habit are taught to be decent and respectful to employers.—In no instance did one of those who escorted us, offend by their neglect, indolence, imperti­nent language, or intoxication: And on our return, we were frequently asked, whether our attendants had done their duty. All travellers would wish that a similar care was universal.

The mutual attachment of the clergy, and their Indian parishioners to each other, ap­pears to be the result of those reciprocal [Page 60] good offices, which bind generous souls to­gether, and of that particular attention which is pa [...]d to the natives. Instances of this kind are [...].—A priest, who had [...] a [...] among the Indians, was about to be removed to another cure— [...] of this reached the Indians, who sent a [...] aged chief to him as a messenger. Having [...]livered his errand, and used many arguments to dissuade him from removing; he a [...]ked for an ancient, valuable belt, which had been deposited with the priest for safe custody, and was the testimonial of an alli­ance between the natives and the administra­tion of that time: When the belt was deli­vered, the chief examining and recognizing it, spread it around the feet of the priest, and asked him whether he could walk away from the affection and bonds of union which that belt reminded him of? The belt was restored to its cabinet, the priest remained and the Indians were satisfied.

In the church at Kingston we saw an In­dian woman, who sat in an honourable place among the English. She appeared very de­vout during divine service, and very atten­tive to the sermon. She was the relict of the late Sir William Johnston, superintendant of Indian affairs, in the then province of New-York, [Page 61] and mother of several children by him, who are married to Englishmen, and provid­ed for by the crown. She is the sister to the celebrated Col. Brant, and has always been a faithful and useful friend in Indian affairs, while she resided in Johnston hall, and since her removal to Upper Canada.

When Indian embassies arrived, she was sent for, dined at governor Simcoe's and was treated with respect by himself, his lady, and family. When treaties or purchases were about to be made at Johns [...] hall, she has often persuaded the obstinate chiefs into a compliance with the proposals for peace, or sale of lands. She retains the habit of her country women, and is a Protestant. During the life of Sir William, she was attended with splendor and respect, and since the war, re­ceives a pension and compensation for losses, for herself and her children.

Soon after the arrival of the Protestant bishop, he visited the diocese, and on his way accidentally passed a party of Indians, who recognized their former missionary, the present minister of Kingston, in company with the bishop, and followed them to the inn where they halted. The bishop's atten­tion [Page 62] was drawn to the affectionate meeting of the Indians, and their old friend. This led the Indians to ask, who the bishop was? Being informed, that he was the spiritual guide, who was sent by the Great Father across the water to preach the gospel, and regulate the concerns of religion, they soli­cited the privilege of making a speech to him, which was done accordingly through the in­terpreter, in which they expressed their joy and gratitude to God, and their earthly guides who led him to this undertaking The bishop in return, addressed them, and agreeable im­pressions were made on all sides, by so sud­den and unexpected an interview.

The clergy of Montreal are proprietors of an estate, near the Algonquin and Iroquois towns, and maintain the incumbent, whom we found to be a sensible, polite, affable, and hospitable man. His assistant was an accom­plished young Ecclesiastic, who had escaped from France since the present wars, and was one of the priests in Lyons. He retreated by the way of Geneva into England, and since his arrival in Canada, has devoted him­self as a missionary to the service of the In­dians. He has learned their language and constantly attends the duties of his function with great punctuality. Gratitude to his Al­mighty [Page 63] deliverer appears to have dictated this measure: He was a youth of good talents and education, adorned with many elegant endowments, acquired amongst the literati of a polished city, in a once civilized coun­try. His parents wer [...] cast into prison, and probably fell a sacrifice to Jacobinism and Roberspiere.

The clergy of the church of Rome, are early inspired with an ardent desire to be sent on distant missions, and to propagate the gospel in every part of the world. They sa­crifice ease and affluence for those employ­ments, with great zeal and alacrity. From hence it is, that they have planted christiani­ty, in the most distant parts of the globe. From their consequent successful labours, and greater experience, they are in due time, advanced to the station of bishops and supe­riors.

They are appointed to their various er­rands by the bishop of the diocese, and re­moved at his discretion, and upon the decease of a parish priest, another is immediately placed in the cure. If his administration is not acceptable, he is made the minister of some other place.

[Page 64]Discords seldom break out with virulence between the clergy and their parishoners, and great reverence is paid to the priesthood as an office of divine appointment. Aaron when consecrated to the priesthood in the church of Israel, was not more revered than the Catholic priests are in all public per­formances.

Their robes are made in imitation of those used by the Jewish priests, and in commem­oration of the garments worn by the Saviour of men. Different prayers are connected with these vestments, and used at the time of putting them on or taking them off.

So minutely are these devotions, and the instruction or moral connected with them at­tended to, that the glove or slipper, used at a bishop's consecration, are not put on without praying, that the person about to be elevated, may be blessed, as Jacob was blessed by his father, when he put on the hairy gloves, and that his feet may be shod with the preparati­on of the gospel of peace.

Politeness, prudence, liberality, and dis­cretion lead the Clergy of Canada, not to in­troduce the subject of religion precipitately, before men of other persuasions. They enter [Page 65] upon such themes with caution and gravity. Carefully abstaining from them in public places, which are not devoted to religion.

Instances are often repeated of their respect to the British government. When Prince William Henry, was publicly received in Montreal, many of the clergy of the church of Rome were present, and paid him the re­spect of kneeling according to the ancient customs of Europe. The prince, however, politely requested them to dispense with that ceremony, and was obeyed.

The Protestant bishop, Doctor Mountain, arrived with the title given him in England of bishop of Quebec. This was the title also of the superior in the Catholic church, who immediately directed his clergy to address him in future, by his surname. Such cordi­ality is observed, that when the late superin­tending bishop of the provinces (bishop In­glis) visited Canada, he called upon the Ca­tholic clergy, and was received by them with great respect. Upon leaving the province, he lamented the desolate state of the English church, and in a farewel sermon preached in Quebec, caused the governor-general to wipe the tear from his eye.

[Page 66]The feasts, fasts, and different ceremonies and processions of the Catholic church are yet observed; except, that by a late ordinance, the people are not compelled to attend to all those which are appointed in the callender. This dispensation was obtained, through the influence of the English and Protestant party; but it has not prevented the accustomed ob­servance of those seasons on the part of the people.

The festival of Corpus Christi, in comme­moration of the institution of the sacrament of the Lord's-Supper, is observed as an high day in mid-summer, and a sermon is preach­ed on transubstantiation. The great dignity of the holy Eucharist, which is daily celebra­ted, led the Catholic church to set apart, one day in the year, in which the prayers, select­ed scriptures, and sermons direct the attenti­on more particularly to that ordinance.— They are not silent on the theme at other times. On that day, the streets are adorned with branches from the trees, and procession [...] pass from the churches. The priests appear also in their most splendid robes.

A gentleman in Quebec, being in compa­ny with the late worthy Chief Justice Smith, who was born and educated in New-York, [Page 67] and lived and died a Presbyterian, called these processions "fooleries." The Chief Justice with his accustomed mildness and good sense, requested the gentleman to recollect what he had said, and to consider when these things called 'fooleries [...] adopted, and what was their design. That they originated at a time when christians lived among heathens, whose false worship was full of ostentation and splendor; that the christian processions were exhited in superior magnificence, and that some duty of piety and morality, or some important fact in the gospel history and the life of our Lord, was commemorated in every part, that our candor and moderation, were therefore to be exhibited, when we comment­ed on the usages of the Catholic church.— The Chief Justice at the same time, used the most respectful language concerning the wis­dom and piety of the English church, and extolled the moderation and candor of the present bench of bishops in England. What­ever specimens of bigotry, his history of New-York, and other writings might former­ly be supposed to exhibit, his demeanor in Canada, appears to have been that of a friend to universal toleration, liberty, and forbear­ance, among professors of every kind. Had he lived to have inspected his history of New-York, it would not have appeared in [Page 68] its present form. Certain things there re­corded have been investigated, and ought to be corrected, because they are contrary to known facts.

The houses of Canada, are well calculated for the purposes of all seasons. Those of the rich have generally an half story beneath the surface of the earth, a second story is of a good height, and a third is formed in the roof, which is steep that the snow may not remain long upon it. This middle story is divided into three large rooms in front, and three smaller, with a kitchen in the rear.

Two stoves and the kitchen fire warm these apartments in such a manner, that the inner doors are open night and day, during the coldest weather. A large stove is usual­ly placed in the centre of one of these rooms, which is at the entrance and end. This stove guards the other parts of the house from the intrusions of frost. The walls of the houses are thick, as stone and lime are plenty.

The windows are closed by folding sashes, hung upon hinges, which open the whole in case of necessity, in summer.

[Page 69]The art of improving the benefits of the heat, communicated by the stoves, consists chiefly, in making the pipes very large, of a diameter of seven and eight inches. In the court-house of Quebec, a stove is fixed with three perpendicular pipes, which communi­cate with each other:—After the smoke has passed through these, it is conveyed across the hall. Fires have so frequently taken place, that a law now prevents the pipes from being conveyed out of the houses, ex­cept through a chimney.

Stoves are never used in the Catholic churches, and a portable wood or tin stove is seldom seen. The English congregations in Quebec, Montreal, William Henry, Three Rivers, and Kingston, have stoves in their chapels.

Protestant zeal, is perhaps not more cold, than Catholic; but, after the celebration of Mass, Catholics may retire and not wait for the sermon. Protestants who are such advo­cates for preaching, as to give up praying in public, rather than part with the sermon, cannot endure the cold until the whole is ended, and therefore, provide for the warm­ing of their churches. But another reason is, that stoves would deface the paintings [Page 70] and ornaments of the church, and expose these costly edifices to be destroyed by fire.

The mild and affable administration of Lord Dorchester made him very dear to the people of Canada, and they take pleasure in repeating anecdotes of his agreeable inter­course with all orders. The head of the Re­colletts, was a gentleman far advanced in years. He retained great vivacity and a sprightly humour and fancy, which render­ed his company very acceptable in all circles. The severe weather increasing at the begin­ning of winter, Lord Dorchester informed this father who had the direction of the church in which the English congregation assembled, that it was time to place the stove in the chapel, as Lady Dorchester had com­plained, that the cold was disagreeable on the preceding Sunday. I hoped, my Lord, re­plied the father, that her ladyship's devoti­ons, would have kept her warm this winter.

The common vehicle for conveying pas­sengers in winter, is called a cariole, and is constructed in a commodious form—It imi­tates a chair or chaise without a top, and is not unlike a calasche or summer vehicle. The sled or runners which support the cari­ole, are made of plank, and elevate the ma­chine [Page 71] about eight inches. In front is a seat for the driver▪ and the whole is defended by a work which rises as a guard against the snow, which is collected by the machine, and impedes the progress of the horse Another use of this invention is, to enable the driver more readily to raise the cariole over such ob­structions. This form adapts it for making new roads in snow over which it slides, leav­ing a smooth track, while the snow is made more compact. An inconvenience soon takes place in roads, which are constantly used. The snow collecting in front, and the ma­chine being lifted over it, by the driver or the strength of the horse, it soon imitates waves, and the motion becomes very un­easy.

Attempts have been made to lead the pea­santry, to adopt some improvement in their carioles, in order to remedy this, but with­out success.

Carioles used by gentlemen of fortune, are constructed and decorated at considera­ble expense. They are light, airy, and ele­gant. The fur blankets used in them, and the fur which is worn by the proprietors, exhibit great taste and wealth.

[Page 72]The horses are not harnessed by the side of each other, but draw in a line. This creates an impediment to those, who pass to and from the States, and Canada in the winter. The roads of neither are adapted to the ve­hicles used and the mode, in which horses draw them, in the other.

A luxury is enjoyed very generally in ice, during the summer, which is easily preserv­ed in houses of a very simple construction. These are small cellars, about twelve feet square, formed in gardens, or on the north side of their houses. They are secured by hewn timber instead of stone, and covered with plank or slabs, which are supported by a pole which rests on two standards. Upon these planks, earth is cast, and the whole co­vered with green sods. Small bushes, such as the rose and goose-berry, are set in this layer of earth, and trees are planted around the whole to increase the shade. The ice is taken in winter from the lakes and rivers, and cast into these houses, where it is broken into as small pieces as possible, and water poured in, which is congealed by the frost, and forms a solid mass.

To Protestants the peculiarities of the Catholic religion affords much amusement. [Page 73] —Burials are attended in the churches with great pomp. During the celebration of the religious offices, the corpse is placed upon a stage, which is ascended by steps and sur­rounded by candles. These stages are paint­ed black, and adorned with representations of sculls and bones. Aromatic gums are burned in censers in honour of the dead, and to prevent infection or offence from putri­dity.

Crosses stand in the burial places as well as in the roads. Indeed they are seen in e­very direction through the country in places of sepulture: Where casualties, disasters, or deliverances have taken place, these are fixed as monuments. They generally call the mind to devout ejaculations. In the grave yard, in Montreal, are several marble monuments, made with urns standing upon pedestals, and surrounded by iron rails.

The monuments of religion reared for the dead are decent, but those for the benefit of the living, must engross the unavoidable at­tention of travellers. Such have been already mentioned, in the description of the churches, colleges, and monasteries. The uncommon privilege we were indulged with, in visiting [Page 74] three nunneries, will afford an opportunity to gratify the curiosity of such, as have not tra­velled into Catholic countries.

Admittance into these is gained with great difficulty, only by the permit of the superior of the church, or his vicar in the neighbour­hood. Great neatness, order, convenience, and industry are exhibited in all of them.— The apartments are well finished and furnish­ed, and the walls are decorated with paint­ings and pictures, drawn from historic events recorded in sacred scripture. Portraits of the foundresses of the nunneries, and of the most pious nuns, who have died in these instituti­ons, are seen in their parlours;—carvings of the crucifixion, as large as life, are also frequent.

The cells of the nuns are small chambers, about twelve feet square, containing a bed for a single person, a bureau for clothing, a desk where devotions are attended, and two chairs. A number of these chambers, with a window in each, and furnished in the same manner, occupy the center of the buildings.

The habit of the Ursalines is black, and that of the order of St. Joseph is white. Th [...] are uniform in fashion and quality, and are [Page 75] not expensive, while no emulation in dress can take place. The veil is black gauze, and is placed [...] the face in their devo­tions, in imitation of the angels. The nuns eat at one common table, and during their meals, a total silence is observed, while they attend to one who reads aloud from a small pulpit, built for the purpose. The Lady Abbess instructs them in their religious du­ties every morning, and this employment, with their devotions, takes up an hour. She has an assistant, who presides in her absence, and a separate desk or pew is built for them, which is decorated with many ingenious carv­ings and representations of angels. Hos­pital rooms are also devoted to the sole uses of the sick nuns, that they may be attended more conveniently, and their mansion be pre­served from infectious disorders. Persons of considerable distinction are taken to the nun­neries, when sick, and the late bishop died in one in Quebec. In that within the city, we saw a citizen of Vermont, who was wound­ed, as he was conveying a raft down the river St. Laurence. No patient need be better at­tended by the physicians or nuns; and this was done gratis.

A gravity or sedateness, marks the coun­tenances of the nuns, which some have con­strued [Page 76] into the gloom of discontent. It ap­pears to be no more, than the effect of a con­stant reserve, which is observable among many other sects of christians, increased by the singular dress of the head, which covers the forehead, and conceals part of the face. They appeared sufficiently cheerful, and ex­pressed the most perfect attachment to their mode of living and retirement. One of them observed, that twenty years was, but as one day, so pleasantly did time pass with them. —She was born and educated in Boston, in Massachusetts.

After so circumstantial a detail of the state of these countries, and its religions and poli­cy, it may not be amiss to remark, that it cannot be surprising, that the natives who receive the benefit of these regulations, who are constantly amongst them, and are early taught their nature and design, should be converts to christianity, and live in peace and friendship, with the descendants from the Europeans.

The Indians are numerous in the trading towns, after the season of hunting—and in every place are scrupulously observant of all the rites of the church. Several circumstan­ces conspire to produce their effect,—such as

[Page 77]1st. Their marriages, which were encour­aged, and took place between the natives and original French settlers. These contracts are solemnized in the churches.

2d. The restraint caused by confession, ex­perience has proved, that this custom de­tects crimes committed against each other. The missionaries lead the offending party to make restitution to the injured. In this way, they are protected in their property and per­sons, from the superior power and art of Europeans.

3d. The benevolent services of the priests and nuns, who have taught the young sava­ges the principles and rituals of religion, ve­ry early in life. These chaunt and respond the service, and observe the ceremonies of bowing, kneeling, and crossing themselves, with great punctuality.

4th. The frequent and splendid proces­sions, decorated temples and representations to the eye, by paintings and carvings. These savages, habituated to the use of hierogly­phics, are thus in a degree, compensated for the want of a knowledge of letters, and the art of printing. The historic scripture paint­ings [Page 78] in the Indian chapels, are excellent per­formances, and make serious impressions, up­on a people averse to study.

Religion appears to have been an object of the chief care of the first and succeeding inhabitants. Early reservations and pur­chases of lands were devoted to the purposes of piety forever, and to secure so desirable an object, the clergy and missionaries endur­ed many hardships, and submitted to the pains of poverty, while the lands were un­cultivated. They devoted their labours and incomes to the erecting of churches and col­leges very early. Vestiges of their econo­my and good management are constant.— The self denials, pious benefactions, and suc­cessful exertions of the Catholic clergy to provide for the service of God, and the sup­port of christianity, exceed every Protestant country in any other northern state, colony, or province, in North-America.

The present government has also in all their locations of lands, reserved a due pro­portion for pious uses. As few oppressions and clamours exist in supporting religion, as possible, consistent with the present state of human affairs in both the provinces.

[Page 79]The surface of these provinces is flat, and the soil good, being well wooded, and fur­nished with many streams, rivers, and lakes.

The river St, Laurence, cannot be exceed­ed in the endless variety of objects, which are connected with it, It begins at the out­let of the Lake Ontario, seven hundred miles from the sea, and is navigable for large ves­sels as far as Montreal, which is five hundred miles from the mouth, where it is ninety miles wide. The tide flows as far as Three Rivers, eighty miles from Quebec. In its course, it forms an endless variety of bays, islands, and harbors.

A general fertility prevails on its shores, as we advance into the country. It is evi­dent that many of the islands have been formed in the revolutions of the seasons, by the altered courses of the river, by the lodg­ing of floating trees and sediment, which have collected together during the floods. The bed of the river is left dry, in many pla­ces below Quebec. Its bottom is chiefly composed of flat rocks in such places, and pilots are obliged very carefully to keep the channel. The constant current has worn away the bottom and shores so far, that the water has subsided below its ancient high [Page 80] water mark, and the lower town of Quebec, is said to be built upon a bank, which was regularly overflown, when the country was first discovered by the Europeans.

The pencil only, can give a stranger any just idea, of the entertaining water scenes at the rapids. The principal, are those of Rich­lieu, Montreal, La Chine, the Cascade, Ce­dars, Coto-du-Lac, and those above Corn­wall, in Upper Canada.

The Richlieu rapids, are passed without much difficulty. Those at Montreal, pre­vent all further progress in large vessels. The shore is so bold and perpendicular at this city, that vessels are loaded and unload­ed along their sides, and wharves and piers are not wanted. The current, however, and contrary winds, make it necessary to warp vessels with the help of men, to these stati­ons.

At the Cascade, is a rapid which is dan­gerous, and a great natural curiosity. We passed it with two Indians, in a birch canoe, upon the ridge of the wave made by the cur­rent, when the smallest error on the part of our boat-men would have plunged us into a whirlpool some feet below us. Advancing [Page 81] near this place, the Indian in the stern with a smile, pointing to the shore, expressed that he wished we were on it.—The smile was returned to animate him: He gave the sign, that no motion of the body must take place. Laying aside his hat, and crossing himself, he spoke to his companion in the bow; both redoubled their exertions, and in a moment we passed all danger, and found ourselves gliding down with the cur­rent.—Curiosity led us to land and view the dangerous place, where we had passed unhurt.

Part of the British army perished at this place, by following the pilot's boat in front, which from his skill went safe, where wind, compass, and deep water, are not all the re­quisites for successful navigation. A lock and canal convey boats now, without ris­quing the dangers of the rapids.

The Isles of Montreal and Orleans, are the most noted. The first has been described, and is made remarkable, by its mountain, which in English, is the Royal Mountain. The second is near Quebec:—It contains se­veral villages, and is under high cultivation. The meadows and low lands, near the river and lakes, yield good crops of grass.

[Page 82]The rivers which unite with the St. Lau­rence, are the Oswagatchie, Ottawas, Sorel, L· Assumption, St. Francois, and Three Ri­vers. The first settlements were formed up­on the banks of the river and lakes, for the convenience of water. Few farms in the lower province are cleared at any considera­ble distance from these waters. Many mill seats are upon these streams, and wind-mills are frequent near the shores where the wa­ters are smooth.

The vegetation is rapid, and the summer season short. The ice melts gradually by the influence of the warmer waters from the southwest. In winter it is sometimes sud­denly broken in some places for a few days, and floating and crouding together by the force of the current, and the confinement of a narrow part of the river below, it is con­gealed together: One of these collections of ice, is formed opposite Montreal, and a road is cut t [...]ough it with axes, before a passage can be obtained to the south shore.

Business is conducted with facility, as re­gular▪ posts pass into Canada, from the States, and through the provinces, as far as Halifax.

[Page 83]Newspapers are printed at Quebec, Mon­treal, and Newark, in Upper Canada. They are carefully guarded against every thing that may excite discontents among the in­habitants, or encourage assaults upon religi­on and government.—Books are seldom printed, as the communication with England is constant, and all literary productions are obtained early, at a moderate price. No paper-mill has been erected, and that article is imported from abroad.

The climate is more congenial to com­merce and agriculture, than is generally imagined. Accessible to the ocean, and ves­sels of heavy burden coming up the St. Lau­rence, as far as Montreal, great amends are made those, who do not reside on the bor­ders of the sea. It is evident to every honest man, that it must be the wish of the people of the provinces, to be at peace with the people of the States. No substantial good could be gained, but much might be lost by the con­test. No advantages could be derived to the States, as a government, by a war with Ca­nada. Individuals actuated by a thirst for spoil, and by a love of disorder, have sought to embroil both, but hitherto without suc­cess. It is a well known fact, and openly confessed, that the British nation does not derive a revenue from those provinces, which [Page 84] is equal to the sum, expended by the crown in protecting, governing, and providing for its adherents.

When the Governor General's speech to the Indians appeared, by which they were in danger of being instigated to war, the wise and good were pained. When the proclama­tion of neutrality was seen, under the signature of President Washington, an universal joy was circulated—Similar sensations were ex­hibited, when the treaty of peace was ratified. While these events took place, agents from the French republic, were actively exciting the people to insurrections, and the laws of the province were violated by smugglers. A late trial has elucidated facts, which were well known before. Men from the States, who had been received into the provinces as subjects▪ permitted to establish themselves in business, to repair their fortunes, and obtain credit, were too active in attempts to destroy the government, to plunder public stores, and make spoil of the treasures of the Catho­lic church.

Publications had been issued through the news-papers in Philadelphia, to sound the public opinion, as to a war with Canada.— Every misrepresentation, as to the state of [Page 85] the popular opinion was sought for, and great encouragement was given by many in the States, to such as were solicitous for convul­sions. At this time, the people of Canada, were not projecting trouble for the States, but as far as possible, encouraging a friendly intercourse, and reciprocal good offices.

The Catholic religion had been assaulted, and treasures devoted to pious uses were seiz­ed upon in France:—Armies, and the lea­ders in the new government, were dividing the property of temples, religious houses, and asylums for [...]verty and disease, and for the young and defenceless.

Reformation was the pretext: This flame was begun in a great degree in the States, and a few were ready to give it free course in the provinces. The clergy from France at this time took great pains with the Cana­dians, to lead them to subordination to go­vernment, and to preserve themselves from massacres and destruction. They saw that the Catholics were proscribed, and that the property devoted to religious uses was doom­ed to spoliation. History can scarcely afford a more diabolical design.—Religion is pro­tected by government, in the same manner, [Page 86] as in the States. The people are satisfied with their religion:—It preserves order, and no substitute was offered; we had no right to impose another upon them. The reve­nues of the clergy were not excessive, and they were benefactors to their flocks,—had patiently endured poverty and hardships, until the lands were brought to their present state of cultivation. They protect their aged parents and other relations, maintain great hospitality, and are the patrons of the people. Such is their duty and interest. So important have the parish priests been, (and few others are now in Canada) in the esteem of the British government, that great ten­derness and respect have always been paid to them. It is an incontrovertible fact, that those persons in the States, who wished to pillage the clergy of Canada, have to the utmost of their power, injured the order of clergy in their own neighbourhoods. They do not support christianity, but are among its inveterate foes.

The rancour against the Catholics is most severe in those States, where they have few or no Protestant ministers.—The people of the States are divided into parties about reli­gion and are not at unity among themselves▪ —Union, order, harmony, and prosperity, [Page 87] universally extend among the Catholics, in Canada.

It is well known, that the principles of li­berty and law, which give dignity and hap­piness to the States, are derived from the maxims adopted in the government of Eng­land. These principles must extend through the provinces. Legislatures, elected by the people, and trials by jury, put new powers into the hands of the Canadians.—Civil courts are regularly and frequently holden, no taxes are levied, and no extortions made.

Madness, avarice, bigotry, and intolerance alone, could wish to carry war into Canada. Commerce and colonization, under the ban­ners of peace, will give happiness, wealth, and prosperity, to every part of North-Ame­rica.