SECTION I.
THE PRAISE OF GARDENING.

IT is of importance to the welfare of any art, that those whose taste inclines towards it, should have a good opinion of its utility, and competent notions of its principles. It is therefore the design of the present section, to shew the degree of estimation that the art of Gardening is worthy of; and it is the object of the next section, to assist in the acquiring that knowledge of Nature, upon which the art so much depends.

The employments of horticulture, certainly conduce to health of body, and peace of mind; and great in­deed are the charms and recreations of a garden well stocked, and well managed by the hand, or under the direction of the owner himself: It at all times serves him as a source of rational amusement, and honest satisfaction.

The praise of gardening, it is presumed, can hardly be too highly extolled; and, as this has been so well done by the best of men, and most respectable of writers, it may better answer the purpose to produce their sentiments, than to attempt new ones.

[Page 2] The great Lord Bacon's opinion of gardening, given in the motto of the title page, is certainly both just and honourable. The agreeable Cowley speaks of his darling nature as enjoyed in a garden, thus:

Mr. Cowley's passion for retirement was indeed very strong; but might he not well say, "Is there not a cause?" He had been conversant in high and public life, and was very glad to leave

As one reason for his going out from Sodom (as he speaks) to his little Zoar, he asks,

Mr. Cowley says of a country life,—We are here among the vast and noble scenes of nature; where we [Page 4] walk in the light and open ways of the divine bounty, and where our senses are feasted with the clear and genuine taste of their objects.

Another poet retiring from town to a cottage and a garden, says,

Mr. Evelyn, who had so great knowledge and ex­perience in the way of gardening, speaks its praise in these words: Though the gardener's life be a labori­ous one, yet is it full of tranquillity and satisfaction. A condition furnished with the most innocent, laudable and purest of earthly felicities; and such as does cer­tainly make the nearest approaches to that blessed state, where only they enjoy all things without pains.

[Page 5] Mr. Addison says, I look upon the pleasure which we take in a garden, as one of the most innocent de­lights of human life. A garden was the habitation of our first parents before the fall. It is naturally apt to fill the mind with calmness and tranquillity, and to lay all its turbulent passions at rest. It gives a great in­sight into the contrivance and wisdom of providence; and suggests innumerable subjects for meditation.

Mr. Hervey, in his meditations on return from a walk, having entered the flower garden, and called it a beautiful spot, says, "Here nature always pleasing, every where lovely, appears with peculiar attractions. Yonder she seems dressed in her dishabille; grand, but irregular. Here she calls in her hand-maid art; and shines in all the delicate ornaments, that the nicest cultivation can convey. Those are her common apart­ments where she lodges her ordinary guests: This is her cabinet of curiosities, where she entertains her inti­mate acquaintance. My eye shall often expatiate over those scenes of universal fertility: My feet shall sometimes brush through the thicket or traverse the lawn, or stroll along the forest glade: but to this de­lightful retreat shall be my chief resort.—Thither will I make excursions, but here will I dwell."

On the Kitchen Garden Mr. H. observes, "Here those celebrated qualities are eminently united,—the utmost simplicity with the greatest neatness: none of the productions affect finery. If it be pleasing to be­hold their orderly situations, and their modest beauties; how delightful to consider the advantages they yield! What a fund of choice accommodations here! What a source of wholesome dainties, and all for the enjoy­ment of man! Not one species of all this is a cum­berer of the ground. Not a single plant but is good for food, or some way salutary. And with so benefi­cent an economy are the several periods of their [Page 6] ministration settled, that no portion of the year is left destitute of such nourishing esculents as are best suited to the temperature of the air, and the state of our bodies. Oh! why should the possessor of so valuable a spot envy the condition of kings? Since he may daily walk amidst rows of peaceable and obsequious subjects; every one of which tenders him some agree­able present, and pays him a willing tribute. Such as is most excellently adapted, both to supply his wants, and regale his taste; to furnish him at once with both plenty and pleasure."

From the amiable Cowper something on this subject may be added. See the garden in his Poem, entitled the TASK.

Sir William Temple commended the employment and care of a garden as his settled choice, saying,—For my own part, as the country life, and this part of it more particularly, were the inclination of my youth itself, so they are the pleasures of my age.

Le Pluche justly asserts.—Of all the employments in life, none is more simple, natural, and entertaining, than the cultivation of plants.

Virgil of old, describes the happiness of a cultivator of the ground in gardening and planting, as equalling all the opulence of kings, in the ease, content, and freedom of his mind. This is one of the most assured truths; and happy are they who are free from the en­tanglements of artificial life, and not over-burthened with honor and greatness.

Gardening leads to planting and farming, of which, collectively, Mr. Cowley prettily speaks,—It is one of the best natured delights of all others, for a man to look about him, and see nothing but the effects and improvements of his own art and diligence; to be al­ways gathering of some fruits of it, and at the same time to behold others ripening, and others budding; to see all his fields and gardens covered with the beau­teous creatures of his own industry; and to see, like GOD, that all his works are good.

SECTION II.
CONCERNING VEGETATION.

AS a good GARDEN affords much pleasure and profit, it deserves every attention; and certainly the cultivation of it cannot be too rationally pursued. It is therefore that a sketch of the Nature of Vegetation is here attempted; for the use of those who are un­acquainted with the subject to assist them in the pur­suit of gardening with understanding.

Let the ELEMENTS be first considered.

EARTH, as an element, considered in itself, ap­pears not to serve to the support of man or beast. Though from it all things spring as from a common womb; yet independent of the other elements, or ex­traneous matter, it neither produces, nor affords, any thing like food. Assisted however by these, there is a combination of powers, the effects of which are equally beneficial and wonderful.

It has been the most general opinion, that the earth acts only as a receptacle for nutriment; and as a rest­ing place, or means of supporting plants erectly; to imbibe rain, dews, air, &c. needing continually to be replenished by manures, or from the atmosphere. In­deed, it is not to be conceived, how the earth, consid­ered as a solid, should pass through the capillary parts of plants. Experiments have proved, that the earth is very little, if at all exhausted, by the growth of plants, and consequently affords a presumption that plants are not fed by it.

[Page 9] There has been much controversy about the food of plants. A respectable writer says, The saline, unctuous, and subtle slime, which the water separates from the coarse earth, and keeps in a dissolved state, is the principal nutriment of plants. And indeed, this is the opinion of others, who have treated the subject, and is justified by inquiries into the nature of the sap of plants.

Those who contend for an inherent power in earth to nourish plants, lay a stress upon the circumstance, that various earths have various qualities, suited to different parts. But to this it may be said, that the earth being more or less binding, or composed of dif­ferently constructed particles, occasions the parting with the food committed to it, the more or less freely, or altered according to its various modes of perco­lation.

WATER appears to have much to do in the sub­sistance of plants, for they consume a great deal; and either die, or are at a stand, when they are deprived of it, or at least of humidity from the air. It is proved, that seeds and plants, and in short all sub­stances, consist chiefly of water, being reducible to liquids in a great degree. Thus some ancient philos­ophers maintained, that all things have their nourish­ment and growth from water.

Water (with respect to vegetation) has been defined to be, a mixed fluid, in which are all sorts of par­ticles proper for the composition of plants. But though seeds will germinate in water, they will not proceed to grow in it. Rooted trees however have been set in water at the spring, (as a rose) and put forth leaves fair, though pale; and it is well known, that many slips and branches of plants will strike root in water readily: and gathered flowers not only keep fresh in it, but increase in fize, and buds open their foliage.

[Page 10] The natural state of water uninfluenced by heat is ice, and when very cold, it is too dense a fluid to pass through some of the capillary vessels of plants; yet a small degree of heat rarefies it; and as its globules are capable of being infinitely divided by a proportionate heat; it is thus rendered fit to pass through the finest canals. It mixes with the nutritive properties that are lodged in the earth, and is (at least) the vehicle of the food of plants. In this respect alone, it is most val­uable. Without it, nothing could be elaborated in nature, no fermentations be wrought, and animals and plants would die of thirst!

AIR is found in a considerable degree in water, in plants, and in fruits. It may be almost demonstrated (says one) that the vegetable nourishment is princi­pally in the air: The tree Sedum lives and grows for years without earth or water.

How necessary this element of air is to man, the commonest observation evinces. Deprived of air, life is quickly lost, and in a depraved state of it, runs fast to sickness and death. Thus plants are found to flour­ish in a free and open air, and grow pale and languish in the contrary. But air is not only necessary for the leaves of plants to breathe in, but their roots require it: Plants will not do well if the soil is too much bound for the air to penetrate freely about them.

The sickliness of housed plants has been said to be owing greatly to want of motion, supposing it equally necessary to vegetable as to animal life; and the bend­ing the several parts of plants by wind, must necessarily impel the juices forwards. Rest can only be esteemed a joint cause of sickliness, and the want of fresh air, must still be the chief; for pure air is fraught with animating principles, and by its attenuating and elas­tic properties, separates the gross juices, keeps the sap in motion, and the plants in health.

[Page 11] If it be asked what air is, and of what it consists? It may be answered, Particles of wet and dry bodies volatilized and rendered elastic by fire. The air or atmosphere that surrounds our earth, contains a mix­ture of all the active volatile parts of the whole habit­able world; that is, of all vegetables, minerals and animals. Whatever perspires, corrupts or exhales, impregnates the air; which, being acted upon by the solar fire, produces within itself, all sorts of chemical operations, dispenses again those salts and spirits in new generations, which it had received from putre­factions.

FIRE, as it operates from the prime body of it the SUN, gives life and energy to all, completing the pro­cess of nature. There is no existing without it. Its total absence would presently bring all to the coldness of death!

The sun by its warmth (conveyed by the air) sets forward that fermentation in the earth, and gives that animation to plants, which effects growth, and con­cocts their juices to make them fruitful.

It is by the rarefaction of the air and juices con­tained in the roots, and all the parts of a plant, that motion and expansion are given to it; and by its as­cending force pushes into buds, leaves flowers and fruits; sending off superfluous and excrementitious moisture into the atmosphere, thus giving us the scents peculiar to each. That the sun does this, is evident from what is experienced in artificial warmth, hurry­ing on the growth of plants, which is ever propor­tionate to the heat applied, provided there is a proper supply of moisture.

Without the vivifying sun, the other elements would be inactive matter, and no longer would the fig-tree blossom, nor fruit be in the vine: The labour of the olive would fail, and the fields yield no meat. The operative power of the sun reaches the deepest recesses, to beds [Page 12] of metals, and to "the place of sapphires; and there is nothing hid from the heat thereof."

The SUN is the fountain of LIGHT. This glorious object of creation, as a luminary, gives cheerfulness both in nature and appearance to all things: If light is not so necessary to existence as heat, life would yet be miserable without it.

As to vegetation, we may observe, without light plants get always sickly, and would not exist long if deprived of it. Light (says Mr. Evelyn) philosophic­ally considered, is half their nourishment. All plants turn to the light as to a powerful attraction, or, as if conscious how necessary it is to their existence. That accute philosopher Dr. Berkeley says, light at the same time that it heats, doth wonderfully rarify and raise the sap. He is of opinion, that light is the same with AEther, and that it so mixes with other bodies, as to enter into their composition, and increase their weight. The aromatic flavour of vegetables (says he) seem to depend upon the sun's light as much as co­lours do.

The physical properties of that ethereal substance, which is so subtle and pervading as light, we may well believe to be various and wonderful, though incon­ceivable.

How impressively are we taught to value the bles­sing of light, by a view of day-break in a fine summer's morn!

From this view of the elements, it appears that their offices are mutual, and that there is a harmony o [...] them, necessary to the welfare of plants, in a view to which art may sometimes assist nature.

Having seen a little into the nature of the ELE­MENTS, as they relate to the existence of plants (the knowledge of which may be useful) let us proceed to consider the plants themselves. Their structure has been examined by the greatest geniuses, and though [Page 14] able, (perhaps) to determine little of Nature's laws, yet has the pleasure and satisfaction they have reaped repaid them their trouble. Though after all our re­searches, we are finally led to this conclusion, that God's works, like his ways "are past finding out;" yet if there is any satisfaction in knowledge, or any consolation in piety, these gratifications are to be sought in, and will be reaped from attentive and mo­dest inquiries into Nature. "The works of the Lord are great, sought out of all them that have pleasure therein."

Nature is nothing but the art of GOD; a bright display of that wisdom, which demands an eternal tri­bute of wonder and worship.

SEEDS of plants stand first to be considered, and they are truly wonderful. What large plants from seeds no bigger than a grain of sand! What a stately oak from a little acorn.

Seeds contain, in embryo, the plant they are to pro­duce, in all its parts; which they have preserved from age to age, seeds producing plants, and plants seeds, &c.

They are covered with coats that are finely and closely wrought, the better to keep the moisture of the earth from coming in too suddenly upon the lobes, or the little plant which might occasion their rotting, and we find that almost every sort of seed, by means of these coverings, must remain different lengths of time in the earth, before they begin to germinate. Some will not spring in the ground till the second year after they are buried, while others will begin to shoot in three days after sowing. This is owing to their re­quiring different degrees of moisture, heat and air, to make them germinate; i. e. bring them into a state of fermentation.

The substance of seeds appears to be spent first in feeding the radicle, and then in the nourishment of the two first, or seed leaves, which are commonly of a different size, shape and substance from the proper leaves of the plant: From between these comes a shoot bearing the true leaves. The lobes (or substance) of seed, consist of a farinous nutriment, adapted to the infant state of the plant, when softened and dis­solved by the moisture of the earth, which extends and unfolds the young plant (or plumule) in the same manner, as the nourishing juice in the eggs of ani­mals hatches their embryo. The seed leaves there­fore contain a fugary juice, which is evident from insects so greedily biting them, and their pleasant taste in sallads, as those of turnips, cabbages, &c. They [Page 16] are thick and succulent, calculated to imbibe air and moisture from the atmosphere, for the support of the tender plant, that might otherwise suffer by drought: for it must proceed in growth, or it would quickly die. When the radicle has struck downwards, the office of the seed is evidently to nourish these leaves, as is seen by the seed coming above the ground with them, ex­hausted of its substance—a mere shell sticking to the top of the leaves.

But some plants have no seed leaves properly so called, as c [...]ru; which has therefore been deemed by some, not strictly a seed, but a bud, or bulb.

It has been do [...]bted whether all plants have seed, because some have not been observed to produce it. To conclude that they have, is however more agree­able to the uniformity of the divine procedure, and al­together to reason.

Seed may be so small as not to be discerned with the help of convex glasses, as we know there are many not discernible without them; and with this minute­ness, it may be extremely fugacious by its slight adhe­sion to the plant.

The truth is, GOD originally ordained that plants should proceed from seed, and they do, (Gen. i. 2.) It was long said that fern bare no seed; but this has proved a demonstrable mistake. That Mushrooms, pro­duce seed, we need not doubt. Many of the mosses are so small plants, that the microscope only can dis­cover their flowers, and some the plants themselves are but barely thus discernible. A great variety of seeds are wafted about continually in the air, and pro­duce their kind, whenever they light upon a proper matrix. Whatever has been objected there appears good ground for believing, that there is no natural production, either in the vegetable or animal king­dom, but what comes from the seed, or egg of some parent, plant or animal.

[Page 17] As to certain plants appearing where none were be­fore, we know that some seeds will keep many years, when deep buried, and being afterwards brought to the surface, have vegetated, as the wild mustard, &c. Besides the wind carrying some sorts of seeds to a con­siderable distance, birds also drop a great many, so that plantations of oaks, &c. have sprung up by means of crows carrying the acorns, and dropping them in cracked ground.

PLANTS follow seed, and we find them proceeding in a steady unceasing progression towards maturity, to their destined end, i. e. production of the like, from which they sprung (seed) to preserve the species. And the economy of nature is so regular, that a certain portion of time is invariably kept (barring accidental circumstances) for this business. So cer­tainly does Nature pursue her end in all respects, that the identical species is always preserved, as to the distinguishing properties of each, though the soils that seeds are sown are so various. Altogether under the same circumstances are produced the sweet smelling flower, the nourishing corn, and the poisonous plant, though differing much in strength, in figure, and other particulars.

The juices in the vessels of plants undergo (accord­ing to their conformation) different fermentations, and thus become altered, in which chemistry of nature, its powers and results are wonderfully exact.

[Page 18] The ROOTS of plants are to keep them fixed in the earth and to draw food from it; which they do (chiefly at least) by their ends which have been there­fore called mouths: In general they affect an hori­zontal growth for the benefit of the sun and air, and never descend above a certain depth from the surface.

By means of the root, nourishment proceeds through the pipes and capillary conduits of plants, continually from the earth, and by the action of the sun and air, circulates, rarifies, and distributes itself. This juicy food, swells the little bags, or cells (of which the sub­stance of plants is composed) and following the differ­ent modifications thereof, filtrates athwart the parts. For example. That which is most pure and sine, serves to nourish the flowers and fruits; that which is not, supplies the branches and leaves, and roots; the most gross and earthy serves for the bark; and the most oily i [...] for gum and rosin. Just the same as we find it in animals, where the food they receive into the stomach pa [...]l [...]s afterwards into the blood, circulates into the ves­sels, and pursuing its different degrees of attenuation, serves to nourish the different parts of the body.

The STEMS or trunks of plants are for the support of the head, and to convey juices from the roots up­wards for the leaves, branches, &c. and are composed (as the roots) of bladders, and various conduits for air, [...]ap, &c. perpendicular, spiral, and horizontal, from the pith to the bark. These vessels may be somewhat seen with the naked eye, as in slices of the young snoots of nut, apple tree, and vine, but very evidently by a microscope. It is observable, that some plants which are weak and pipy have knots at proper dis­tances to strengthen them, and others have claspers to [...]old them up; while others are robust enough to brave the fury of a tempest.

The LEAVES of plants are very variously, but beautifully constructed in their form and substance; and if we consider them as attracting nourishment [Page 19] from the root and the atmosphere, and as perspiring and respiring, they are most evidently essential to vege­tation; and so we find that if the stems, or branches of a plant, are considerably deprived of them, they be­come stunted and diseased, and if any fruit be on them, it proceeds slowly in growth, and is ill flavoured. The quantity of nutriment which a plant derives from the earth, is in proportion to the number and size of its leaves; thus that they may uninterruptedly perform their offices, they are distributed in as distinct and sep­arate a mode as possible.

The under and upper part of leaves are different, and have separate offices; the under is rough and porous, as if adapted to imbibe the rising moisture of night dews; and the upper, or closer, to exclude the grosser parts of the atmosphere, and to imbibe some finer food, as to "draw the live ether." Thus leaves will not endure to be reversed, as is seen by the quick re­turn to their right position, when forced from it, and that till this is effected, they perform not their proper functions.

That the glossy surface of leaves have an intimate connection with the light is evident, as they rise and fall (in a degree, some plants more and others less) as the sun does. If they are turned from the light they twist themselves towards it, as if they had enjoyment, and were conscious of the benefit. The curious will meet with gratification relative to this subject, by con­sulting Hill's Tract On the Sleep of Plants; or his Eden for October.

One of the offices of leaves, seems to be, to subtil­ize and give more spirit to the abundance of nourishing sap, and to convey it to the little buds at their foot sta [...]k, to whose welfare and life they are essential.

If the texture of the leaves be scrutinized, they are found curiously ramified; the ribs and fibres of each seeming much like a [...] reading plant. The ramifica­tions hold a close communication with each other; [Page 20] so that the principal rib sends out lateral ones less strong, and they again an infinite number of fine ones in all directions; and these are vessels of two kinds, viz. for sap and air. As leaves throw off a great deal of excrementitious, so do they imbibe a great deal of nutritious moisture, as is evident from the general re­freshments received from dews. Yet we are not to conclude, that the other parts of plants do not the same in a less degree; and the rough bark of the trees, and the outer vessels, are well calculated to detain moisture, which they convey to other parts.

The BRANCHES of plants come next to be con­sidered. How beautifully do they spread, and how uniformly do they proceed, keeping up precisely the same mode of growth, one from another throughout the whole; till the head of the plant, or tree, attains its customary size, and own peculiar form; which, if it has grown with native liberty, proves always of an agreeable symmetry.

The texture of branches consists of the same kind of vessels as the stem, or trunk; but here it may be observed, that there is yet a specific difference in the vessels of the various parts, as is concluded from their affording juices of a different flavour and effluvia in the bark, wood, leaves, flowers and seeds; so that from the same plant are extracted medical properties of very contrary nature.

BUDS are like seeds, as they contain the future growth of branches and fruit in miniature, so that for instance, in the buds of a currant-tree may be discov­ered (by a microscope) even before winter, the woody branch, and the bunches of fruit. The future fruit also has been viewed in the bud of a vine. In the short buds of pears, which appear at Midsummer, an indifferent microscope will shew the blossoms designed for the April following. The buds of a Mazerion being examined at Midsummer, had the blossoms dis­covered [Page 21] in them, though the time of their blow is not till February; but these are only particular instances.

Thus it appears, that the leaves, blossoms, fruit, and branches, on all trees, are formed the year before; and so their fruitfulness in the year they bear, is no otherwise the consequence of that season, than that nature has gone without any destructive check in her progress, and particularly at the time of flowering, when many blossoms are destroyed by inclement wea­ther, and by wet only as much as any thing.

The FLOWERS of plants have not yet been particu­larly noticed, but of them something must, and much might be said.

Flowers have a general structure in substance, similar to the other parts of plants, as to vessels for sap, air, &c. only are so much the more exquisitely formed, as the leaves are of so delicate a texture. They are formed in the bud while in the pith, and so consequently are the fruit and seed.

The flowers of many proceed from a bud, or knot, the leaves or parts of which do first cover the flower contained therein, whilst it is yet unable to bear the inconveniences of the weather, and defend it from the same; and after the flower is blown, they keep up its leaves, that they may not hang confusedly to­gether, but regularly represent their beauties to the eyes of the beholders: This is exemplified in the carnation. Those that have a cup to sustain their leaves, are weak [Page 22] in their texture, and so need this support; but those that are strong have it not, as lilies, tulips, &c. Those that have no cup are, however, covered in the bud by some sheath, or tegument, to preserve them, while young, and yet too tender to be exposed.

The leaves of flowers protect and conceal the seed of those that bear it, where nature secretly works to the great end of propagation. The seed is the natural offspring of the flower, and when this is once well formed, the several parts of the flower dwindle and disappear. So that while we are admiring the colour, shape, and perfume of these delightful companions of our walks, they are kindly engaged to provide the means of perpetuating pleasure to us.

The care which the AUTHOR of nature has taken to preserve the seed of plants, by the flower leaves which contain the embryo, as in a matrix is admir­able! The flowers themselves come not forth till the season suits their particular temperament, many are hid till then under the coverture of the earth, and those that dare to continue above ground all the year, have yet their gems carefully locked up, and thus their succession and their fruits are secured to us.

The flowers of plants have a remarkable property, when they begin to unfold, and the seed is yet young and tender; they observe the course of the weather, day and night, opening and shutting their flowers ac­cordingly. There is also a property of some flower plants, twining round solid bodies, or fixing themselves to them by claspers, laying fast hold of what may be in their way. Flowers have many admirable properties and parts, that might be considered distinctly, if it were designed to speak of them botanically.

From flowers (of which every month in the year has its beauties) we eventually gratify the palate, by a valuable nectar, and from many we immediately reap agreeable odours; but it is for their colour to de­light [Page 23] the eye, that we chiefly cultivate them; and in this respect we may exclaim with the poet,

But not only the colours delight the eye, the form of flowers are objects of admiration. The leaves of the plants (not to mention the shades of their green and variegations of other colours) are of various symmetry, some plain, others indented, some hard, some soft, smooth, hairy, &c. Flowers are composed, some of only one, others of several and numerous leaves. Here it appears like a large vessel gracefully opening. There it forms some grotesque figure, in imitation of a muzzle, head piece, or cowl. Here it is a butterfly, a star, a crown, a radiant s [...]n. Some are scattered on the plant without any art; others compose nosegays, globes, tufts of feathers, garlands, pyramids, &c.—The seeds of plants are as variously formed as their leaves and flowers.

The following description of Flora's festival and the month of May, may very well finish the notice here taken of flowers.

In considering the works of nature, it is hardly possible but to feel both concern and indignation at the folly of Atheism, and the absurdity of the Atomic philosophy. Both have been well exposed by many writers, and completely so by Sir Richard Blackmore, in his Poem on the Creation; from which, though some extracts have been already made, let the follow­ing be added,

For several observations, and some passages on veg­etation, Mr. M. thinks it proper to acknowledge, that he is indebted to the excellent Mr. Derham, and others.

SECTION III.
OF THE FORMATION OF A GARDEN.

THE garden here meant, is one where vegetables, fruits and flowers are cultivated under the same enclosure. Considering the profit and pleasure to be reaped from a good garden, it is certainly an object of some consequence to the comfort of human life. It will not, therefore, be prudent in any one who has a garden to form, to be niggardly, either in allotting ground for it, or in expense and trouble to prepare and lay it out in the best manner.

The agreeable work of making a new garden can happen to [...]ew; and when it does, soil, situation, and space, all favourable, are happy circumstances not al­ways at command: It often indeed happens, however, that pieces of ground are taken into use as additions, and some judgment should be exercised in the choice, that the business may be well done.

[Page 26] To help towards resolving on the quantity of ground it may be prudent to cultivate as a garden, a general idea may be given in observing, that an acre with wall-trees, hot beds, pots, &c. will furnish employment for a man, who at some buisy times will need assistance. The size of the garden should, however, be propor­tioned to the house, as to the number of inhabitants it does, or may contain. This is naturally dictated; but yet, it is better to have too much ground allotted than too little, and there is nothing monstrous in a large garden annexed to a small house.

Some families use few, others many vegetables, and it makes a great difference whether the owner is cu­rious to have a long season of the same production, or is content to have a supply only at the more common times. But to give some rule for the quantity of ground to be laid out, a family of four persons (ex­clusive of servents) may have a rood of good working ground, and for every head after ¼ rood extra.

But if it can, let the garden be rather extensive in proportion to the family; for then, a useful sprinkling of fruit trees can be planted in it, which may be ex­pected to do well, under the common culture of the ground about them; and then, a good portion may be allotted for that agreeable fruit the strawberry in all its varieties; and the very disagreeable circumstance of being at any time short of vegetables, may be avoided. It should be considered also, that artichokes, asparagus, and a long succession of peas and beans, require a good deal of ground. Hot-beds will also take up much room, if any thing considerable be done in the way of raising cucumbers, melons, flowers, &c.

The situation of a garden should be dry, but rather low than high, and as sheltered as can be from the North and East winds. These points of the compass, should be guarded against by high and good fences; by a wall of at least ten feet high: Indeed lower walls do not answer well for fruit-trees, though eight may [Page 27] do. A garden should be so situated, to be as much warmer as possible, than the general temper of the air is without, or ought to be made warmer by the ring, and subdivision fences: This advantage is es­sential to the expectation we have from a garden lo­cally considered.

As to trees planted without the wall, to break the wind, it is not to be expected to reap much good this way, except from something more than a single row; i. e. a plantation. Yet the fall of the leaves by the autumnal winds is troublesome, and a high wall is therefore advisable. Spruce firs have been used in close shorn hedges; which therefore, as evergreens, are proper to plant for a screen in a single row, though not very near to the wall; but the best evergreens for this purpose are the evergreen oak, and the cork tree. Rows of Lombardy poplars, or the witch elm, planted close, grow quick, and have a pretty summer ap­pearance behind a wall: but are of little use then, as a screen, except to the West; where still, they may shade too much (if planted near) as they mount high. In a dry hungry soil, the beech is proper. The great maple, commonly called the sycamore, is handsome, of quick growth, and being fit to stand the [...]udest blasts, will protect a garden well in a very exposed situation: the wind to be chiefly guarded against as to strength, being the westerly.

The form of a garden, may be a square, but an ob­long is to be preferred; and the area rather a level; or if there be any slope, it should be southward, a point either to the East, or West not much signifying, but not to the North, if it can be avoided, because crops come in late, and plants do not stand the winter so well in such a situation. A garden with a northern aspect, has, however, its advantages, being cooler for some summer productions, as strawberries, cauliflowers, &c. and therefore to have a little under cultivation, so sit­uated, is desirable; especially as succession ground. [Page 28] If the soil of a garden is strong, it would be worth while, where sand (not a binding sort) is to be had, to make one warm spot of it light for the purpose of a few forward things; as in a good sandy soil, plants will germinate at spring, from a fortnight to a month sooner than on clay.

The soil that suits general cultivation best, is a loam; rather the red than the black; but there are good soils of various colours, and this must be as it happens: The worst soil is a heavy clay, and the next a light sand I [...] the soil is not good; i. e. too poor, too strong, or too light, it is to be carefully improved without delay. Let it first, at least, be thoroughly broke, and cleaned of all rubbish, to a regular level depth at bottom as well as top, so as to give full eighteen inches of working mould, if the good soil will admit of it, for none that is bad should be thrown up for use. This rule of bottom levelling, is particularly necessary when there is clay below, as it will hold up wet, which should not stand in any part of the garden. When a piece of ground is cleared of roots, weeds, stones, &c. it would be of advantage, to have the whole thrown into two feet wide trenches, and lay thus as long as conve­niently may be. The ground cannot be too well pre­pared; for when this business is not performed to the bottom at first, it is often neglected, and is not con­veniently done afterwards; and so it happens, that barely a spade's depth (or less) is too often thought sufficient to go on with. There is this great advan­tage of a deep staple, that in the cultivation of it, the bottom may be brought to the top every other year, by double trenching and being thus renewed, less dung will do: Tap-rooted things as carrots and parsnips re­quire a good depth of soil. See Improvement of Soils, in the miscellaneous section.

The aspect of the wall designed for the best fruits, may be full South, or rather inclining to the East, by which it will catch the sun's rays at its rise, the cold [Page 29] night [...] be earlier and more gently dissipated, and the sco [...]ing rays of the afternoon summer's sun are sooner [...]. By thus having the walls of a garden not directly to the four points, the North wall is greatly advantaged, by having more sun.

The border next this wall should be of very good earth, about two feet deep, rising a little towards the wall. A free moderate loam, or some fresh maiden soil, not too light, is necessary; and if it is not natur­ally there, let no trouble be spared to procure it, if it can be had, so as to make all the borders promising good; and in order to this, if manure is necessary, let it rather be that of rotted vegetables, or a small quan­tity of turf, or wood ashes, or a less of soot, or salt, for the roots of fruit-trees should not meet with much dung, at least of horses; that of cows is the best, or that of sheep or hogs, will do, well-rotted, and well mixed, &c. being worked in the borders, as long as possible before the trees are to be planted. Let the holes be some time opened beforehand, that they may be sweetened and improved by the exposure. Thus due care will be taken, and all things ready to go about the work of planting properly.

The borders for peaches, &c. cannot be too wide, for in a few years the roots will spread a considerable way; and that they may do it without impediment of rubbish in the walks, and without meeting with a bad soil, is of much consequence to the health and fruit­fulness of the trees.

If a garden is large and square, a second South wall, running down the middle of it would be very useful; and so, if large and long, a cross wall or two might be so, as giving opportunity for the cultivation of more trained fruit trees; and if there is any idea of forcing fruits, these intersecting walls, ranging East and West, are proper for it (as situated within the ring fence) being furnished with flues, &c.

[Page 30] The best fruit border being prepared for peaches, nec­tarines and apricots, or vines and figs, the trees should take their residence there (if the leaf is falling) about the latter end of October, or as soon after as can be. If the middle of December be past, February is then the time, though some gardeners plant all winter, if the weather is open enough at the time to work the ground. March may do, or even [upon a pinch] the beginning of April.

Wall-trees should not be older than two years from grafting, or budding. Much disappointment has been the consequence of planting old trained trees, through their being accustomed (perhaps) to a contrary soil, or by damage done the roots in taking the trees up; and thus, instead of saving time, it has frequently been lost, being obliged, (after years) to be replaced with young ones. But if trained trees are to be made use of, let them be planted as early as possible, with full roots, and in a particularly good soil: The necessity of re­moving trees to a better (or at least as good a soil) has been denied, but it is certainly reasonable.

The distance to plant, should be about eight or nine inches from the wall, and let apricots, peaches, and nectarines be twenty feet asunder, more or less, accord­ing to the height of the wall; though for the small early sorts of wall fruits, sixteen feet will do. As the larger apricots, however, grow freely, and do not well endure the knife, they should have twenty-five feet al­lowed them: This is for a wall of nine or ten feet high; if higher, the distance may be less, and if lower, the contrary. This room may seem (to some) too great, but experience proves it necessary; for when trees are planted in too confined a space, after a few years it is troublesome to keep them pruned within bounds; and the cutting they must have, makes them run to wo [...]d, and thus to become less fruitful. Fig-trees require as much room as the apricot, or rather more, as they grow freely and must be suffered to ex­tend [Page 31] without shortening. In low, sheltered, and warm situations, as under a high wall to the N. and E. the fig-tree sometimes does very well as a dwarf standard, particularly in the gardens of great towns. Though other trees are best planted in October, this should not be till March.

The intermediate spaces between peaches, nectarines, and apricots, may have a vine, a dwarf-cherry, or cur­rant, or gooseberry-tree, of the early sorts, as the smooth green and small red, to come in early; and improved in the beauty, size, and flavour of their fruit, by the advantage of situation. But wheresoever grapes can be expected to ripen, there let a young plant, or cut­ting, be set, though the space be confined; for the vine (freely as it shoots) bears the knife well to keep it within bounds. If the wall be high, the cherry, or plum, may be half-standards, which being after a while kept above, will be more out of the way of the principal trees; though dwarfs may be trained so as not to interfere. Some have planted half-standards of the s [...]me kind of fruit as the dwarfs: but which ever way is used, let the intermediate trees be pruned away below in good time, in order to accommodate the prin­cipals as they mount and extend. The better way however is, when the wall is tolerably covered, [...]o ex­tirpate the intermediate trees, as (when large) they im­poverish the border, and too much rob the principals of nutriment: If taken up well, in season, and pruned properly, they may be planted elsewhere. Something merely ornamental may occupy the vacancies also, as some double blossomed fruit tree, passion tree, roses, &c. or in a fine situation, a pomegranate; any of which may be removed when their room is wanted. See section viii. On planting.

Plums, cherries, and pears, may occupy the other walls, the two former at about fifteen, or it may be twenty feet asunder. Cherries, however, will not gen­erally do well in a full North aspect; but any sort [Page 32] of plum (rather a late one) and summer pears, and also nut trees will, if you chuse to train them. There should always be some currants and gooseberries in an E. and N. situation, at the distance of eight feet, where they will be easily matted, (when ripe) to come in late, as October, November, or perhaps December. Pear trees of free growth are hardly to be kept within tolerable compass on low walls; but if attempted, should have at least thirty feet allowed them. The best sort of winter pears deserve a southerly wall to ripen them well, and improve them in size and flavour: The gable end of a house is peculiarly proper for a pear tree, as it affords room which they require. Apples may do on a wall, (and if any on a good wall, let it be the golden pippen) yet the practice is seldom adopted: The same may be said of mulberries, though they come to bearing much sooner against a wall; but they need not have a South aspect, indeed it has been asserted, that they do the best in a North one. For walls, chuse trees of moderate wood, rather than strong; for it can hardly be too fine, if well rooted, clean, and healthy: This observa­tion particularly applies to the pear. Quince stock pear trees are chosen in order to a confined growth; but they do not succeed in a dry soil, or hot situation.

When the planting of a garden is finished, it will be a good way to have a plan of it taken, with the names of every peculiar tree marked thereon, in their place, to be assured of the sorts when they come to bear. Some have the names of the trees painted on boards, and placed behind them, to which, if added the time of ripening (fixed late enough) it would prevent a premature plucking by visitors, &c.

Here it may be observed, that if any evergreen hedges are desired, in or about the garden, yew, box, alaternus, celastrus, phillyrea and pyr [...]cantha, may be kept low, and clipped in form, if so desired: In addition to which, if a few roses were intermixed, it would have a pretty effect.

[Page 33] The walks come next under consideration, and they are to be begun from the best wall; the border of which being regularly levelled and settled, the walk is to be governed by it. A wide border next the South (as was said) is best for the trees, and moreover for the many uses that may be made of it for the smaller early, or late tender esculents, and a few early cauliflowers. For the sake of a pleasant sheltered walk, to have the South border narrow may be desirable; but on no account let it be within six feet. Take care that this walk is not sunk too much, and that it have a bottom of good earth, as deep as where the trees are planted. Let the body of gravel be thin, and then the roots of the trees will be admitted to run properly under the walk, and find nourishment; where, if they were stopped by rub­bish, they would be apt to canker, and irrecoverably disease the tree.

The number and breadth of the walks must in a measure be determined by the quantity of allotted ground; exceeding in these particulars where there is room. But better be few and wide, than many and contracted. If the garden is small, one good walk all round is sufficient; and if long and narrow, the cross walks should not be many: six, or eight feet, is not too wide in a moderate sized garden.

If the grounds be laid out in Autumn, leave the walks alone till Spring, when the earth will be settled. Gravel laid towards Winter would be greatly disturbed by the frost, and the necessary work about the ground. But whenever made, the garden ought to be first care­fully brought to an exact level; then the walks should be nicely stumpt up, keeping the tops of the stumps (as guides) to the true pitch of the quarters by a light line, made of good hemp, that will bear pulling tight. Proceed to take the earth out of the alleys about eight inches deep, which may be thrown towards the middle of the quarters, to give them an agreeable, but small convexity, which makes them look well.

[Page 34] Rake the bottom of the walk level, and lay the gra­vel to within two inches of the top of the stumps. The gravel will settle a little, but the walks should always be about three inches at their edge, below the quarters, or these will have a flat and mean appear­ance.

If Edgings are to be made, in order to separate be­tween the earth and gravel, especially if of stone, or wood, or box, they should be done first, and they will be a good rule to lay the walks by. See, of Edgings in the miscellaneous section.

If plenty of Gravel, lay it moderately fine: if scarce, some small stones, or rubbish of any kind, may be laid in first, and rammed down with a broad rammer; but do not spare for a little expense, if gravel can be had, as a thick coat of fine gravel, will bear relaying, or turning over, to refresh it occasionally. As the gravel is laid, let the operator neatly rake the larger parts down to the bottom, leaving a fine surface, in a small degree convex, i. e. just barely sufficient to throw off wet: walks that lie high in the middle are unpleas­ant to both eye and feet, and cannot be so well rolled.

When deep walks of gravel are designed, for the sake of the mould dug out of the alleys, it should be forborne, and laid thin, if any trees are designed to be planted near the edge; for if the roots of trees have not a good soil to strike into, when they reach the walks they will not (as has been observed) prosper. In laying gravel very thick, it is a good way to do it at two courses; the first of which may be rough as it comes from the pit, yet still raking the larger parts down, and then ramming or treading it; and the last course should be of all screened materials.

A few yards of gravel only should be laid at a time, before ramming or treading; after which it may be necessary to go over it with a fine iron rake, tooth and back; and then a whole walk being finished, it should be repeatedly pressed with a moderately heavy [Page 35] roller; and again after the next rain that falls: so will the walks become level and firm. The caution may be repeated, not to lay the walks too high, on account of the ill appearance it gives the quarters and borders when on the same level with them.

Grass Walks may do where gravel is scarce; but the latter is so clearly preferable, that except for a lit­tle variety in large gardens where there are many walks, they will hardly be made choice of. They are troublesome to keep in order, and if much used are apt to get bare, and out of level, especially when narrow; they are also frequently damp to the feet, if not wet. See miscellaneous Section, Of Grass Plats.

Camomile, has been used also to form green walks, planting it in sets about nine or ten inches asunder; which naturally spreading, and the runners being fixed by walking on them, it forms a pleasant carpet, and is esteemed medicinal, from the effluvia arising by the pressure of the feet.

Sand may be adopted for walks, and there is a bind­ing sort of it, that does very well; but lay not any of it too thick, as it is the less firm for it. Drift sand is a good substitute for gravel.

Coal Ashes strewed thinly in the alleys are better than nothing, as they at least serve to keep the feet dry and clean. If the garden be a strong soil, these ashes (when worn down) may be thrown out of the walks, with a little of the earth, and will prove a good manure for the quarters.

Sea Shells make very good walks.

All trees designed to be planted, are to be thought of before winter. Those of the wall have been spoken of; and as to standards they must have a fair depth of good soil (not very dungy) to grow in, for it should be remembered, that tree roots in a garden are prevented from running over the surface, as they do in an undis­turbed orchard. It is necessary that some caution should be used not to dig the ground too near, and [Page 36] too deep about garden trees; lest loosening the roots, they should not be able to stand the wind; and be­cause the nearer the surface any root grows, the more, and better fruit, the tree bears.

But the fewer standard trees in a garden the better, as they take up much room, and by their shade prevent the proper growth of vegetables that are any thing near them▪ so that if a garden is small, there should be no trees except those of the wall. The [...]ase is different where there is ample room; and the blossoms of fruit trees (apples particularly) are so de­lightful, that if they produced nothing for the palate, there would be a sufficient inducement to plant them for ornament; but let them be dwarf standards, in preference to espaliers.

Dwarf-standards occasion less trouble to keep them in order than espaliers, and are generally more pro­ductive. Espalier trees are seldom managed well, and commonly appear unsightly; they are stiff and for­mal, and obstruct the sight in viewing the quarters of a garden, which (if in order,) are worthy of coming under the eye; and the violence done to nature, to keep espaliers in form, is paid by pains and disappoint­ment. A writer of repute; observes, apples on French paradise stocks, planted at eight or nine feet distance, pruned and kept in an easy manner, make a fine ap­pearance, and produce better fruit, and in greater quantities, than when they are in espaliers; Dutch paradise stocks however last longer, and are altogether superior. For managing Dwarf trees, see Pruning.

If Espaliers are planted, let them be only fruit of the best sorts, and in spacious gardens, where they may have a good length and height allowed them to grow freely; and let it be resolved to do the business neatly. If they may have nothing better than poles or stakes to be trained to, let them at least be strait, and of some equality in size, as to height and thickness, smooth, and not too clumsy for the purpose; fix them well in [Page 37] the ground, upright, and about nine inches asunder; at first only four feet from the ground, and raised as the trees advance in height. Apples on paradise stocks best suit for espaliers in small gardens, and pears on quince stocks, as they maintain a small size; but they do not so well in espaliers as dwarf standards, being apt to decay by the cutting they must have: These dwarf stocks in general (at the best) do not however produce enduring trees.

Espalier trees should rather be trained to sawed ma­terials properly framed together, smoothed and painted But for a year or two, they may be fastened to light stakes, when they will have formed a head, to begin to train them for bearing in the neat manner pro­posed; i. e. to slips of deal joined to light oak posts as trellises. Whether the slips be placed perpendicularly, or longitudinally seem indifferent. If the longitudinal mode of training be the best approved, strong iron wire, may be recommended to run through the posts, instead of slips of wood, as it shades less and is stronger and neater. If upright slips are used, they should be slender, and from six to eight inches dis­tance, according to the greater or less freedom of growth of the tree. The height may be also accord­ing to the nature of the tree, from five to six feet; and it will not answer to have them lower. Only a moderate length of trellis (on each hand) need be fixed at first, and so additions made as the tree ex­tends The posts may be about four feet asunder, the first on each hand, being two feet from the stem of the tree.

Apples should be allowed twenty-four feet and pears thirty; except those gr [...]ff [...]d on paradise or quince stocks, [...] which little more than half may do. Cher­ries and Pi [...]s should have about eighteen or twenty feet allowed them. Quinces, [...]diers, mulberries, and filberds may also be espaliered. The trees should be planted about a yard from the edge, but farther off [Page 38] were better, especially if the walks lie deep of gravel or poor materials.

The Breda or Brussels apricots have succeeded in espaliers, as also in dwarf and full standards; but the general climate of the place must be mild, and the sit­uation they are planted in must be very sunny and well sheltered: The fruit from standard apricots is very fine, and abundant; but they come not to bearing un­der several (sometimes ten or twelve) years.

Currants, gooseberries and raspberries do well espa­liered, as to a production of early and fine fruit.

Trees of a more humble nature, and shrubs, next oc­cupy attention in furnishing a garden. Currants and gooseberries (as bushes) should be planted three feet from the edge, and full six feet asunder. Some of these very useful shrubs should grow in every aspect of the garden, in order to have a succession of their fruits, as long as may be. Those who choose to plant whole quarters of currants and gooseberries, ought to do it at six feet asunder in the rows, and the rows eight feet from one another.

Raspberries may be set in plantations, in rows five feet asunder allowing three feet between the plants. Though these shrubs are best by themselves, yet here and there by the walks a detached bunch may be kept, or here and there one against a warm wall. Between rows of raspberries planted at the above distance, cole­ [...]orts, early cabbages, cauliflowers, and lettuces may be set or spinach sowed (rather in drills) the raspberries having their pruning and dressing early in Autumn. Every year a little rotten manure, dug in close about the roots, (and deeper as the plantation gets older) will insure fine fruit. Raspberries are not very nice as to soil and situation; but the twice bearing sort should have a dry soil and warm birth to forward the crops, that the last may be in time: See that the plants to be set have good brushy roots, and two or three eyes to each near the stems, for the next year's bearing.

[Page 39] Strawberries may be planted at the edges of borders and quarters, either in single or double rows, (rather the latter) for the convenience of gathering, and for ornament; but the common and best way is, in four feet beds, with eighteen inch or two feet alleys on which beds may be five rows of the wood and Alpine, four of the scarlet and pine-apple, three of the Carolina, and two of the Chili; setting the plants at the same distance in the rows, as the rows are from one another in what is called the quin [...]unx order. In a good, cool, loamy soil, which suits them best, a little more distance may be allowed the four first sorts; and in quite a dry light soil, somewhat less, that they may shade one another the better.

The best situation for strawberries is an open and sunny one, as thus they bear more, and finer flavoured fruit, but they are not very difficult. Some of the scarlets should be planted under warm walls to come early, and in a situation of little sun to come in late. The woods bear shade as natural to them, and the al­pines do tolerably well in it: As lengthening the season of fruit is a desirable circumstance; for these three sorts (at least) the situation should be various.

The most proper time for planting the strawberry is the first moist weather in September, (or even earlier) that they may be established in the ground before winter, and they will bear the better the first year: Frost is apt to throw up late planted ones, and injures, if not destroys them. Those planted in spring often suffer from drought, and bear very little the first year, except the alpines▪ Choose forward runners for plant­ing, and let them be from beds in full bearing, i. e. of two or three years old; for plants from old beds are not so fruitful: Take care also they come from beds producing fruit good in its kind, and true as to sort: Much depends on this, see Nursery. Press them mould to the roots, give them a watering, and again once or twice, if the weather prove dry. Some gardeners let [Page 40] them run [...]ver the beds, which in a dry, light soil, may be prope [...]; but in this case, a greater distance should be allowed them at planting.

If the alpine sort be planted on a warm border, eighteen inches asunder, and suffered to spread, the young runners will produce fruit the same year, and sometimes this prolific strawberry bears till November.

Fresh plantations of strawberries should be made every fourth year, though in a good soil, and with good management they will continue longer; so that where they are suffered to run, the plants being frequently re­newed, and old ones removed, beds have borne tolera­bly for ten years. Some gardeners insist that this spreading mode is the best way of cultivating the straw­berry. In a dry season, such full covered beds have the advantage; but in a wet one, the fruit is apt to rot, though still in such a season, it is cleaner than from plants growing in an open way; but this carries the appearance, and rather argues neglected culture. See the sections, nursery, pruning, and fruits. The method of keeping them in detached plants produces the largest and best ripened fruit, and on the whole is preferable; for this practice there cannot be a stronger argument than that those follow it who cultivate the strawberry for sale.

The watering of strawberries should not be neglect­ed, doing it almost daily, when in flower and setting their fruit, if the weather proves dry, particularly to those under a warm wall; but this is not to be con­tinued when the fruit is towards ripening, which would spoil the flavour, and dispose them to decay.

Flowering Shrubs may be dispersed about, and her­baceous perennial flowers; but plant them not too near the edge, lest they hang over the walks: The bulbous sorts may however be within six inches.

Asparagus and artichokes should be thought of, but they take up much room, and in small gardens may therefore be left out. It will be of little use to have [Page 41] less than fifty or sixty feet of asparagus beds, as there would be so few heads to cut at a time; and artichokes must be planted wide, or they will not grow large and fleshy, in which their merit consists.

Let not pot herbs be forgot, but provide a general herbary in that part of the garden which is most con­tiguous to the kitchen.

Having spoken of stationary things, the routine of the seasons must dictate the rest; and the inclinations of the palate will refresh the memory to take care of providing the most necessary and agreeable esculents and herbs.

Perennial flowers have been mentioned; but let fancy direct as many annuals, and biennials to be cultivated, as room can conveniently be found for, that the garden may be well ornamented.

In furnishing a garden with shrubs and flowers, re­spect should be had to their usual height, their bulk, colour and season, that the mixture may be properly varied, appear harmonious to the eye, and come in regular succession, throughout the year; the latter end of which is seldom provided for so well as it might be with late flowers, which should be set in warm situ­ations, as their proper place. In the most dreary months, by judicious planting, evergreens in their neat and cheerful "winter liveries," may be viewed from our windows, and serve instead of flowers.

Those who garden upon a large scale, should take care to have every thing proper and convenient lib­erally provided for the work. Let there be a well situated place for hot-beds, with some building as a tool house, and (if dry) for keeping bulds, seeds, and herbs. A house also on the spot, for the gardener to reside in, is desirable on many accounts, where there is much to look after: Those also who garden upon a small scale will do well to have every needful imple­ment.

If water can be introduced, and kept clean with ver­dent banks around it, it would be found very useful [Page 42] where a garden is large; but let it be as near the cen­tre as possible, as the most convenient situation. It should be fed from a spring, and if▪ it could, be made to fall, or drip into the reservoir, because the trickling noise of a rill, is to many an ear agreeable music.

Mixed Gardening, as comprehending the useful with the sweet—the profitable with the pleasant, has been the subject hitherto, but if the flower garden and the kitchen garden are to be distinct things, the case is al­tered; yet not so much, but that still the kitchen gar­den should be adorned with a sprinkling of the more ordinary decorations, to skirt the quarters, which should be chiefly those of the most powerful sweet scents, as roses, sweet-briars, and honey-suckles, wall flowers, pinks, minionette, &c. in order to counteract the coarser effluvia of vegetables, or (perchance) of dead leaves.

The flower garden (properly so called) should be rather small than large; and if a portion of ground be separately appropriated for this, only the choicest gifts of Flora should be introduced, and no trouble spared to cultivate them in the best manner. The beds of this garden should be narrow, and consequently the walks numerous; and not more than one half or two thirds the width of the beds, except one principal walk all round, which may be a little wider. The gravel (or whatever the walks are made of) should lie about four inches below the edge. The beds for tulips, hyacinths, an [...]nies, ranunculuses, &c. may be three and an half, or four feet wide, and those for single flowers the same, or only two and a half feet wide in the borders; which was the most usual breadth in the old flower gardens, of which we have hardly an instance now. Let the mould lie rather rounded in the middle.

Figured parterres in scrolls, flourishes, &c, have got out of fashion, as a taste for open and extensive gar­dening has prevailed; but when the beds are regular in their shapes, and chiefly at right angles, (after the [Page 43] Chinese▪ manner) an assemblage of all sorts of flowers, in a fancy spot of about sixty feet square, is a delight­ful home source of pleasure, that still deserve to be countenanced. There should be neat edgings of box to these beds, or rather of boards, to keep up the mould. See, Of Edgings, in the miscellaneous section.

An ORCHARD may be spoken of here; i. e. a spot to plant standard trees in, which are forbidden a place in the garden; but it must not be a small spot. The front row, should be half standards, and before these may be a row of dwarfs; observing to plant the most towering sorts of the full standards behind. The ground should be dug thoroughly as low as the proper soil is, and if not naturally good, let it be improved by dung duly rotted, and worked well in a full spade. In a strong soil time should make a part of the manure. If the ground be naturally uneven, it will not be proper to level it, as this would rob the higher parts, and needlessly enrich the lower. A strong cool soil does best for an orchard, but it must not be wet. If it holds up water, it should be well drained by trenches, for the roots of trees will not endure to be sudden, without sickening the branches, and eventually bring­ing on death by cankering, &c.

A piece of ground designed for an orchard, would be greatly improved by first cultivating it as a kitchen garden for a year or two, manuring well at the time: Or, give it a good tillage; let it have a winter's frost, by deep trenching into high ridges, turned over in spring, and summer fallowed. The trees being planted, at proper distances, the ground may be kept under some sort of crops, for several years to come, with proper dressing. In a large orchard, the plough may be used for corn, potatoes, &c. It the soil is poor, every opportunity should be taken to give it a little [Page 44] manure, that there may be proper food prepared for the roots, as they extend. No doubt many orchards would bear much better if the whole ground (as the roots extend far) were before winter dug or ploughed over every second, or third year, and dressed, by dig­ging in some rotten dung, or sprinkling over the whole (when rough dug) foot and pigeons' dung, or that of any other poultry; this will wash in by rains and snows, and do much good. Or if an orchard were ploughed, or rough dug, every year, immediately af­ter the fall of the leaf without manuring, it would be very beneficial; for it is not advisable to give trees much manure.

The thinning of the branches of orchard trees, by an occasional use of the saw, bill, chizzel, or knife, should not be neglected, that the air may have free course, and the sun access among the branches: This is more especially necessary in thick planted orchards, and the benefit of proper pruning is very great, though much neglected. See Pruning of Standards, Sec­tion XII.

To succeed well, apples and pears should be planted from thirty to forty feet asunder, and cherries and plums from twenty to thirty, according to the richness of the land. The walnut should be rather planted singly; but if in a number together, ought to be forty feet asunder for fruit, and thirty for timber. See Nursery. These distances appear great, but it is necessary, as after a course of years will be found evident. See planting and pruning, Sect. 9, 12.

If the intermediate ground is not cultivated, as before recommended, some sort of fruit or forest trees may be planted, to be removed in time; or currants, gooseber­ries, &c. it may be kept also in grass, the trees thorned, and small cattle turned in: which grass, as it will come early, will be found particularly useful to those who have a stock of cattle. On this subject, it may not be amiss to give the instructions of one of our best gardeners.

[Page 45] It is an error (says he) to let turf cover the surface of the ground in an orchard. The trees should be at such distances, that a plough may go between them, and in that case the trees thrive every way better; the breaking of the ground serves as a manure without its rankness, and the sun and air have free passage, which is very essential to the good taste and well ripen­ing of the fruit. Where the plough cannot be used, dig the ground a full spade deep, picking out the roots of weeds.

The best manure for an orchard, is a mixture of two parts dung and one part coal-soot. Let this be blended carefully, and spread all over the ground, be­tween the trees, not piled up in heaps just about their stems, according to the old practice.

The cultivation of the ground about the trees in an orchard, is more neglected than any other part of the gardener's business, yet there is not any thing more necessary: The industry of man in tillage gives the earth in fields its great fertility, and why should it be denied in an orchard. Hill.

SECTION IV.
OF THE CULTIVATION OF A GARDEN.

THE cultivation of a garden includes the doing all those things that are necessary, in order to a sea­sonable and prolific production of the various vegeta­bles, fruits and flowers, we are disposed to propagate.

[Page 46] The soil must be first attended to, always to keep the fruit borders in heart, and the quarters in a proper state for use, when called upon to receive either seeds or plants. Ground should never lie long without stirring; and if all is so well as might be, or not, it must be borne with; but the soil of a garden should have a free, sweet and rich soil, by proper digging, &c. or no great things can be done, as to forward, hand­some, or well-flavoured productions. It should be free, that the roots of plants may not be impeded in the quest of food; sweet that the food may be wholesome; and rich that there may be no defect of nutriment.

Trenching the vacant ground in a garden, does good to all soils in the autumn and winter seasons, and that in proportion to its strength, being indispensibly neces­sary for clays: The light soils may do (perhaps) as well by being only rough dug, which is a method that stronger soils may be also benefited by. The soil would be still farther improved, by retrenching, or rough digging, once or twice in the winter, if the op­portunity offers, particularly if strong or stubborn.

When manure is applied, let not the ground be glutted with dung; for a little at a time, well-rotted, is sufficient, so that it comes often enough, as opportu­nity and the nature of the cropping may dictate. It is indeed a sort of rule with gardeners, that ground should be dunged every second year; but circumstances may make more or less of it necessary, and rules should never be indiseriminately applied. If dung is pretty well reduced, as it were to earth, much less will do, and let it not be buried too deep; but if it is otherwise, lay it low, to be dug upwards another time, when it is more consumed.

It is an excellent way of manuring, especially where the superficial [...]oil is much exhausted, to spread over [...]otten dung, [...] in autumn, in the winter, or early in spring, and [...] it remain, till the ground is wanted, before it is dug in; which should however be slightly [Page 47] dug before the manure is put on, or forked in a little afterwards. This method is particularly to be recom­mended where crops of onions, leeks, and such super­ficial rooting plants are to be.

Dung is often, but should never be used in great quantities, and lie in lumps, which bread worms, grubs, and insects, and make plants grow two rampant and rank flavoured. Carrots it cankers, and it disagrees with many things; it is apt also to make the ground parch, and burn the crops sown upon it in a hot sum­mer. On these accounts some persons have been in­duced to dress their gardens only with good fresh earth; which, if they do not overcrop, will do very well, be­ing accompained with good tillage.

Vegetables are always sweeter, the less dung is used, and little need be used, when the natural soil is good and deep; for the earth may be so dug, that what is at the top one year may be at the bottom the next; which is a manoeuvre evidently advantageous, as a good part of the strength of the top soil, is constantly wash­ing downwards: The method just recommended, of letting dung lie on the surface for a time is good also, as it abates the rankness of it.

If the ground is in proper heart, every spot may be contrived to be constantly and successfully cropped. The common gardeners about London, and other great towns, who give high rents for their land, contrive (manuring well) a succession of crops, one under ano­ther very dexterously; and this sort of conduct should be imitated by private persons; and thus a little spot, in skilful and industrious hands, shall be much more productive than a much greater under contrary man­agement.

A caution must however be observed, that plants do not grow so crowding thick as to defeat the end in view; and fruit borders must not be much cropped, furnishing them chiefly with small plants, of short du­ration, and superficial growth.

[Page 48] In the occupation of ground, the change of crops will be proper, as each sort of plant draws a somewhat different nourishment: so that after a full crop of one thing, one of another kind may often be immediately sown; but it should be contrived that a wide crop may follow a close one, and contrariwise.

Close crops, as onions, leeks, carrots, &c. are conve­niently and neatly cultivated in beds of from four to five feet widths, with alleys of a foot to eighteen inches between them.

The seasons proper for furnishing the ground with every particular vegetable, should be well attended to, that each may be obtained as early as its nature will permit; and of the seeds and plants we use, care must be taken to procure the best of the kind, lest after all the trouble of cultivation, disappointment as to quality should ensue.

The quantity sown and planted is (in a degree) to be determined by the portion of ground that can be spared; but it should be always a rule, to sow and plant more than probably enough, as more may happen to be wanted than expected; and a cross season or other accident, may occasion disappointment. As exact rules cannot be laid down, the exercise of a little judg­ment will be necessary, in order to proportion crops aright; for to have too much of one thing, and too little of another, is very disagreeable. Attention should be particularly paid to cultivate those things that are most generally called for, or approved, having respect to the natural duration of crops, some going off soon, and others being lasting, and that too according to the season they are propagated in. See, Of Propagation, in the next section.

Seeds and plants should be adapted as much as pos­sible to the soil and situation which best suits them; for in the same garden some difference will be found, not only as to sun and shelter, but quality of the earth. [Page 49] Some parts of the garden will be richer, some poorer, some deeper of good mould, some shallower, and some (perhaps) heavier, some lighter; in due attention to which, the gardener will reap advantage.

Let the ground be well dug, broke thoroughly with the spade, and properly levelled, when it is to receive seeds or plants; and let no trouble be ever spared in doing any thing that is understood as at all necessary, and proper to be done.

Weeding in time is a material thing in culture, and stirring the ground about plants, as also earthing up, where necessary, must be attended to. Breaking the surface will keep the soil in health; for when it lies in a hard or bound state, enriching showers run off, and the salubrious air cannot enter. Weeds exhaust the strength of the ground, and if they are suffered to seed and f [...]w themselves, may be truly called (as Mr.Evelyn speaks) garden sins: The hand and hoe are the instruments for the purpose; and where the trouble is not too much, the former will generally be the best, where it is not thought necessary to stir the ground; which indeed may be done afterwards, when all is clean, to better purpose. Digging where the spade can go, between the rows of plants is a good method of de­stroying weeds, and as it cuts off the straggling fibres of roots, they strike afresh, in numerous new shoots, and are thus much strengthened. Deep hoeing is a good practice, as it gives a degree of fertility to the earth.

The thinning of seedling crops is a very necessary thing to be done in time, before the young plants have drawn one another up too much, by which they be­come weak and out of form, and sometimes never do well afterwards. All plants grow stronger, and ripen their juices better, when the air circulates freely round them, and the sun is not prevented from an im­mediate influence; an attention to which should be [Page 50] paid from the first appearance of plants breaking ground.

In thinning close crops, as onions, carrots, turnips, &c. be sure that they are not left too near, for instead of reaping a greater produce, there would assuredly be a less. When they stand too close, they will make tall and large tops, but are prevented swelling in their roots: better to err on the wide side, for though there are fewer plants they will be finer.

In the pricking and planting out of crops, be sure to do it as early as may be; and always allow room enough for this work; and being thus treated, vege­tables will come forwarder, larger, and of a superior flavour. These advantages are seen in all things, but in lettuces particularly, which often have not half the room allowed them they should.

Over cropping is of bad consequence also to the ground, robbing it of strength to no purpose, except increasing the dunghill; it makes it also inconvenient to weed, rake and clean the ground round about them, which in a private garden at least it is proper frequent­ly to do: So that while attention is paid to make the most of a piece of ground, care must be taken, that the contrary is not in fact the consequence.

Dibble planting, as being easy and expeditious, is the common way of setting out plants by; but (ex­cept indeed quite small ones) they are best put in by a spa [...]e or trowel. In the former method, the roots [...] frequently doubled and distorted, so as to receive (at least) a great che [...]k, if not to occasion a failure, when so put out towards winter; but in the latter way, the roots lie free and easy, and presently establish themselves in health and strength. There is more in th [...] than gardeners in general allow of.

Watering is a thing of some importance in cultiva­tion, though not so much as some make it. It is a most point indeed, whether more harm than good is not [...], done by it, when it is thought gene­rally [Page 51] necessary in a dry season. In a large garden, it is an Herculean labour to water every thing, and so the temptation generally prevails either wholly to neg­lect it, or to do it irregularly or defectively. To wa­ter nothing is too much on the dry side: but there is such a thing as watering too much which spoils the flavour, and makes vegetables less wholesome.

But watering will assuredly benefit some things; as (sparingly) new planted trees, flowers and vegetables. Watering is of use to settle the earth about the roots of plants newly set, and it is by a close union, (as it were) of the earth with them, that they prosper. The watering of new planted things may be to be repeated, but it should not be done too often, as it is then apt to sicken, and rot the young fibres of the roots. As soon as they are believed to have got hold of the ground, desist from watering. When any plant is towards flowering then moisture is more necessary.

Shading of new planted things, particularly flowers, is of much benefit, and that in proportion as the [...] son is sunny. As a little water in a cloudy time, does much good, the imitating a cloud by a shade, is evi­dently proper, and frequently necessary to the life of the plant, as neglecting this business has frequently proved.

Strawberries and cauliflowers are generally watered in a dry season; that is the strawberries when in bloom to set the fruit, and the cauliflowers when they shew fruit, in order to swell the head. In a light soil this ought particularly to be done. In very dry wea­ther, early turnips, carrots, radishes, and small-sallads, will need watering. Slips, cuttings, and layers of any kind will need water. Pots of flowers must have it frequently.

When watering is undertook, let it be a complete business; i. e. to the bottom and extent of the roots, as much as may be. The wetting only of the surface of the ground is of little use, and of some certain [Page 52] harm, as it binds and cracks the ground, and so ex­cludes the benefit of showers, dews, air and sun, from entering the soil, and benefitting the roots as they otherwise would do. Wetting the surface of the ground, (however) in a summer's evening, as it makes a cool atmosphere, a dew is formed, which pervades the leaves, and helps to fill their exhausted vessels again.

Watering the roots of wall-trees (if dry weather) when the fruit is setting, is by some thought necessary. The way to do this effectually, is to make a few holes at some distance from the tree with a smooth sharp pointed stake, the better to let the water down; but this may wound the roots, and should only be prac­ticed in a light soil, and very dry season. To young trees only it can be of use for the roots of the old ones run far and wide; and it is the small fibres of these distant roots, on which the tree chiefly depends for food. Vines should have no water till they are off blossom. (July) and the fruit as big as pin's heads; and then if the season be very hot and dry, watering the roots (if the soil is warm as it ought to be) twice a week will help the fruit to swell.

An engine to water the leaves of vines, and all other wall trees in a summer evening, refreshes them much and helps to rid the trees and wall of insects and filth. Late in the summer, when the nights begin to get cold it is time to leave off all watering, except things in pots and frames which should have it then only in the morn­ing. As watering is apt to make ground hide bound and unsightly, let the surface be occasionally stirred and raked, which will make future waterings enter the ground the better: when the ground is hard on the top, the water runs away from its proper place, and half the labour is lost. Many things are impatient of being kept wet about the shanks, and therefore water­ing should be generally at a little distance.

The quality of water used for refreshing plants, is a material thing, and it is very various in its nature, ac­cording [Page 53] to the peculiar earths and mineral substances, that it passes through. Rain water is by far the best, as appears by the verdure and vivacity it gives: It is nourishing as being full of vegetable food, and free from metallic impregnations.

River water is next in fitness, and pond water fol­lows if it is sweet. Well water is of least account, though circumstances occasion its use the most. So that in forming a judgment concerning watering, it is not simply to be considered, whether plants should be wa­tered; but whether with well water and that too from a pump. Pump water if used directly (to say nothing of its hardness) it is so cold in summer, that the roots feel an extreme sensation; for as they are then warm, through a lively fermentation in the earth, extreme cold so contracts their vessels, that they perform their proper offices with difficulty, and become consequently diseased.

Hard water is softened by throwing in a little earth, and rather that of a loamy nature, which will greatly fit it for use. Some persons keep cha [...]k in wells, cis­terns, &c. to soften the water; and others have kept hard water on [...]yster-shells a few days in a tub, with a view to watering flowers, &c. At any rate, however, let hard water stand exposed to the sun and air, as long as may be; a few hours will improve it, but a few days will better qualify it for vegetation.

Water is sometimes enriched with dungs and salts. Some experiments of putting a small quantity of nitre into water to keep flowers flourishing in phials, and rooted plants in pots, have been reported to prove beneficial. That courser way of impregnating water with dungs may be useful to pots of plants that are too full of roots, or to any thing growing in a poor soil; but the water should not be made too rank, or suffered to touch the leaves. Sheep's-dung is that which has been used for the purpose, and is to be pre­ferred, though others may do. Let the rule be, to [Page 54] impregnate the water about an equivalent to an ounce of sea salt to a gallon: A stronger mixture might do mischief.

The MANAGEMENT of a garden as somewhat distinct from the cultivation of it, is an object of con­sequence; i. e. to keep it in such ORDER, that it may not offend the eye, or fail in those general impres­sions of pleasure it is capable of affording, when things are shewn in their best manner. A garden may be cultivated so as to be profitable; and yet not con­ducted so as to be agreeable to walk in, which is a circumstance surely to be lamented: The proper ap­pearance of a well managed garden is expressed by the word neat.

It is too sordid a way of persuing gardening to have nothing farther in view than the gratification of the palate. To do every thing (especially in a large gar­den) that ought, or might be done, with a view to have it in the greatest state of perfection, will indeed occasion no little trouble; but the true taste for gar­dening, does not admit of complaint on this head, and will do (at least) what it can to make all agreeable and inviting; for surely a green meadow, or a ploughed field, are pleasanter objects than a garden that is not in tolerable order.

In order to be neat, weeding must be industriously followed up, and all litter that is made in working, quickly carried off. The ground also should be fre­quently stirred and raked between crops, and over the borders, to give all a fresh appearance. There is a pleasantness to the eye in new broken earth: and when there are no flowers left in the borders, this gives an air of culture, and is always agreeable. This observation is particularly meant to apply in autumn, that the garden may not become dreary too soon, and so bring on winter before its time. An Asparagus fork is expeditious and useful in this case. Vegetables [Page 55] and flowers should be supported in time; and in form, by earthing up, or by proper ties to sticks.

Trees and shrubs should be constantly freed from suckers and dangling shoots, and wall trees ought to be regularly kept in order agreeable to the directions in the section, On pruning.

Let gravel walks be kept free from weeds and moss and often swept and rolled as they may require. If there is quantity of gravel enough in the walks to relay, or turn them up every spring, or once in two years, it will thoroughly clean, and make them appear lively. Moss may be either scraped off with a trowel, or some such instrument, or rather rubbed off by re­peated strokes of a broom not quite new.

Grass plats and walks should be mowed, as often as there is the l [...]ast hold for the scythe, for they lose much of their beauty, when the grass gets any thing long; leaves should not be suffered to remain on them as it stains the grass.

Edgings of all sorts should be kept in good order and repair, as having a singular neat effect in the appear­ance of a garden. The dead edgings will sometimes, and the live edgings often want putting to rights; either cutting, clipping, or making up complete. Where there are no edgings, or but weak ones, let the border­ing on the walks be kept firm, and now and then worked up by a line in moist weather, beating it smooth with the spade. See Section 20.

Some fruits may need support, by tying their weak branches when they get heavy, to stakes, &c. Rows of raspberries, and beans are kept neatly up in their lines, by putting in here and there a stake, and using packthread lengthwise; and thus will they bear better fruit, and be more conveniently gathered. Strawberries of fine heavy sorts, will be preserved from getting dirty and rotten, by tying their stems of fruit to little sticks; by this practice the fruit also gets better ripened, and of a finer flavour: Some persons lay tiles, or moss round the [Page 56] plants, but this is not (generally) so well, only it has the advantage in keeping the ground cooler in a hot season.

Flowers should be particularly seen to, to tie up, and trim off dead and dangling parts. Some of them can­not do without support, and many sorts are made more secure and beautiful by proper ties. If this business is neglected, perhaps a heavy rain, or strong wind comes and lays all prostrate, especially about the equinoctial seasons: but even their own weight will often bring flowers down.

The sticks used for flowers, should be of smooth wood, as hazle or sallow, or of neat painted slips of deel, with or without an ornamental head; white is the best colour, on account of its contrast with the leaves. New bass wetted, soft packthread, or green yarn are proper for the ties, which should be twisted first round the stick, and then round the flower: let the ends of the string be cut off close. The sticks should have smooth and sharp points, otherwise they may damage the roots, and will not hold so fast in the ground; thurst them in as far from the stem as conveniently may be, and let attention be paid to bulbous roots not to go so near as to wound them. Do not think of forcing all the branches of a large bushy head to a single stick; but let two or more be used, as may appear necessary, observing that there is something of an equality of size in the sticks used to the same flower.

Some persons are very incurious about their flower sticks, which may rather be called stakes, even when applied to the smaller sort of flowers. Sticks may also be too weak for large ones, and a due proportion is ne­cessary to propriety and neatness.

It has been said, by a great gardener, that the sup­port given to flowers, should be a concealed business, and therefore, if this idea is adopted, the sticks should be no taller, than that the head of the plant may cover [Page 57] them when full grown: In order to do this work the more completely, they ought to be painted green

Decaying flowers should be timely trimmed or re­moved, and perennials should be regularly freed from the parts running to seed, (except so much as may be wanted) as the production of seeds weakens the root much; sometimes even causing death, and thus many curious perennials have been lost, especially the first year of planting them. To preserve any particular sort therefore, let the stems be cut down as soon as the flowers appear to be going off, or to secure the root in strength, let them not flower at all the first year.

Decaying vegetables are offensive, and the kitchen garden ought to be attended to, that every thing of the kind may be removed out of sight or smell. Thus may all in this department, being under industrious and judicious management, strike the eye as agreeably as a flower garden, the idea of usefulness stamping a value on the neatness.

Vegetables prematurely spindling, and superfluous ones, sprouts, &c. running for seed, should not be suf­fered to continue in the ground (as they too often are) to exhaust its strength, as well as offend the eye.

The management of a garden (summarily speaking) consists in attention and application; the first should be of that wary and provident kind, as not only to do well in the present, but for the future; and the latter should be of that diligent nature as (willingly) "Never to defer that till to-morrow which may be done to-day:"—Procrastination is of serious consequence in gar­dening; and neglect of times and seasons will be fruit­ful of disappointment and complaint. It will often happen, indeed, that a gardener cannot do what he would; but if he does not do what he can, he will be most justly blamed, and perhaps censured by none more than himself.

SECTION V.
OF PROPAGATION.

PLANTS are propagated by seeds, suckers, slips, off­sets, divisions, cuttings, layers, and graffs.

By seed is the most general method of propagation, and plants raised any other way are seldom so fine. Those plants from seed which have never been re­moved, are commonly handsomer, and come for­warder, than those that have been transplanted, pro­vided they were sown in a proper soil and situation.

As upon seed being right in kind and good in nature, depends the desired success, care should be taken to procure the best, and no temptation suffered to prevail for the use of an inferior kind, or of one only suspect­ed of being so, if it can be helped; for to cultivate a soil, and use a wrong or defective seed knowingly, is folly indeed!

The largest seed of the kind, plump and sound, is the best, being well ripened and kept from injuries of weather and insects; for, as the largest animals pro­duce the most profitable stock, so it is in vegetables; which directs the gardener always to save seed only from the forwardest and handsomest uninjured plants. As in animals the young may be stunted by bad man­agement, and defective food, so in vegetables, the seed being good will not be alone sufficient, if the soil and culture be not right.

Commonly speaking, new seed is to be preferred to old, as growing the more luxuriantly, and coming up the surer and quicker. This circumstance induces some private persons to save their own seed (a practice [Page 59] not altogether to be recommended) that they may not be deceived in buying old for new seed: But this trick of trade it is to be hoped is not practised by every seedsman: Yet a little mixture of old seed is sometimes proper, because the new is perhaps cut off, and the old saved, by being a day or two later in coming up.

If old seed is knowingly sown, some allowance in point of time must be made. Peas and beans of two years old, are by some preferred to new, as not likely to run to straw. And cucumbers and melons are reck­oned best to be of several years age, in order to their shooting the less vigorously, and so becoming more fruitful, and take up less room: But this principle is maintained extravagantly by some gardeners, who say these seeds can hardly be too old, and will allow ten years to be within bounds; three for cucumbers, and four for melons however is best. As to the age of seeds, at which they may be sown and germinate, it is uncertain, and depends much how they are preserved. Seeds kept from the air and moisture by being buried deep in the ground will continue a great many years without corruption.

Peas and beans will germinate very well at seven years of age; but the seeds of lettuces and kidney beans, and some others are not to be depended upon after a year or two; and though generally speaking the smaller seeds are of the least duration, yet their maintenance of vegetative power must depend much upon the texture of the seed, with respect to its coat, and the oil it contains, &c.

The saving seed, for the sake of saving money in the purchase, has not been found to answer well, in general with private persons, and is hardly to be recommended. Things running to seed give a garden a rude appear­ance, often occupying ground that is wanted, and might be used to better purpose; and the case often is, that seeding plants (in private gardens) are neglected in some measure, or destroyed by birds, and come to little at last. Perhaps they are not saved from proper [Page 60] plants. It is a particular business to raise seeds for sale, and (generally) they are best had from those whose province it is to deal in them.

Against sowing our own seed, there is this to be ob­served, that it is a received maxim to procure seeds of esculents from a different soil and situation, or at least to change them, as being apt to alter or degenerate, if repeatedly sown in the same place. Seed produced on warm land is disposed to come early, but by this means (in proportion to its dryness) prematurely, so that the plants produce but few flowers. Seed from cold land comes late, and in some seasons the plants do not well ripen their seed. Rich land produces seed, not abundantly, but too luxuriant in nature, and poor land gives weak seed; so that in these cases, to con­tinue sowing the seed produced on the same ground, is evidently not proper.

The only case where (on the whole) it is proper for private persons to save seed, is to secure that of any particular sort, that it is judged may not be got so true and good. Yet here perhaps the busy bee or wind may interfere, and disappoint expectation; for if there is any thing of the like kind in a neighbouring garden, these may carry the Farina of that to our charge, and contaminate it, so as to produce a spurious offspring, which is often experienced in the cabbage tribe. Now this cannot in a great degree happen with those who raise seed in extensive pieces of ground oc­cupied with the same sort of vegetable.

Those however who choose to save the seed o [...] vegetables, must propagate from fine forward plants, secure them from rocking about, when they get tall and heavy guard against birds, gather them as they ripen, and keep them dry. Flowers, it may be proper to save the seed of, and it is little trouble. The sorts may thus be better depended on, and the small quantity wanted of each kind makes it hardly worth while to buy, if we can raise them ourselves, or get them of a [Page 61] friend. It should be a rule for flower seeds in general to be fresh from year to year; though if kept dry, and from much air, many sorts will grow that are older: Flower seeds are kept well in vials.

Seeds may be forwarded for sowing by various ways of procuring a germination before they are put into the ground. In summer it has not been unusual, to steep both broad and kidney beans in soft water, or milk and water, about twenty-four hours, to forward their growth, and to ascertain their vitality. If the ground is very dry when these seeds are committed to it, either steeped or not, it is a good way to make drills or trenches to plant them in, watering them well first, and then pressing the seed in a little way. Any sort of the broad beans, or even peas, may be forwarded, when ground is not for the present ready, by laying them in damp mould, in a garden pot, or otherwise, a layer of earth, and a layer of seeds, &c. and they may be put into trenches (with care) when the radicle has got some considerable length, the mould being light, and the work finished by a gentle watering.

The smaller seeds, as carrots, &c. may be prepared for sowing, by simply mixing them in a little moist sand, or fine earth, taking care that they do not lie longer than the usual time of their beginning to sprout: but this practice should only be adopted for seeds that are long in coming up, and then there is some ad­vantage in having them to sow in a state ready for rooting immediately, on fresh dug earth.

The season for committing seeds to the ground, is that as early a time as the nature of the plant to be cultivated will bear; for the forward productions, which come without forcing, are the best as to size and fruit­fulness, if they meet with no material check from weather. It is the proper ambition of gardeners also, to have some of the first of each kind of vegetables and fruits.

[Page 62] Let this direction for early sowing be understood, not only of spring, but autumn crops; that the plants designed for winter use, or to stand for spring, may be strong, and well established in the ground: Though for those designed for spring, it is advisable to have two or three different sowings; for lettuces (as an in­stance) that are forward, will sometimes rot, when backward plants shall do well.

To be sure of a crop, and in some things a succession of crops, various sowings should be made through the year, at all times that are not too unnatural as to season; for it is an object in gardening, not only to have early and late productions, but never to be without what may be produced. Every sowing that is made (the early in particular) should be noticed in time, whether it is likely to succeed, that the work may be repeated, if there is like to be a failure. But a little caution is necessary, that this business be not over done; for though there may seem to be a suf­ficient distance of time in sowing for succession crops; yet they tread sometimes upon the heels of one another so fast as [...]o occasion a disagreeable superfluity: This is often the case in peas and beans, in the height of summer, and especially if a hot one: and this caution is the more necessary, where there is no ground to spare, or but few hands to cultivate it.

Sowings should be generally performed on fresh dug, or stirred ground. The digging should therefore be done as near the time designed to sow as can be. There is a [...] moisture in fresh turned up soil, that softens the seed to swell and germinate quickly, and nourishes it with proper aliment to proceed in its growth with vigour, but which is evaporated soon after from the surface. If the ground, indeed, turns up raw, or wet (as early in the spring it is apt to do) a lit­tle time must be allowed it to dry, and so also if rain falls first. In this case, seed should be sown as soon as [Page 63] [...]ver the ground may be ventured on, not to [...]ang to the feet, for trampling when the soil is too wet, binds it and does harm, especially heavy ground; thus in this work, and every other in the way of gardening, there is a nicety of time to be observed, by those who would do their business well. It is to be observed, however, that sowing in dri [...]s, or on beds that are not to be trampled, the moisture of the ground is rather an advantage, provided, in the last case, that the ground will admit a rake, and the soil is not too wet to drop somewhat loosely about the seeds.

The proper depth at which seed should be sown, is to be carefully observed: if too deep, they will either rot or not vegetate or thrive well; and if too shallow, they are liable to be injuriously affected by [...], [...] drought, or birds; but of the two, rather [...] than too deep, is best, and this we are [...] whose sowings are mostly superficial.

The smaller the seed, the finer should the soil be, and the less also the covering; so that, while some (as the seed of celery is to be but barely covered, others, as peas and beans) may have a depth of two, three, or four inches. But some regard is to be had to the sea­son and soil:—in a warm season, and light soil, sow deeper, and in a cool season, and strong soil sha [...]lower.

The quantity of seed sown, is a thing to be attended to with some exactness. Small seeds go a great way, and require a careful hand to distribute them; for though sowing a little too much [...]e a trifle as to the value of seeds, yet to have them come up cr [...]ding thick is an evil. To sow evenly as to quantity, is an object of practice worthy of care, as it secures a better crop, and more easily managed in the [...]nning. On the whole, however, it is better to sow rather thick than thin, especially if the seed is suspected; poor land will require more seed than rich.

It is not generally advisable to sow several sorts of seed on the same spot, as some persons are accustomed [Page 64] to do; for though the gardeners about London follow the practice; profit is their great object, and not neatness or propriety. On the same piece, they sow radishes, lettuces and carrots; the radishes are drawn young for the table, the lettuces to plant out, and a sufficient crop of carrots is left, for carrots should not be very near to grow big: this is as reasonable a combina­tion as any that is made; but still, if not short of ground, each kind separate will be found best. In defence of this mode of culture, it is said, if one crop [...]ails, the others may do, and there is no loss of ground or time; and if all succeed they do very well. Radishes and spinach are commonly sown to­gether by the common gardeners, and many man­ [...]res of inter-cropping are made by them as sowing, or planting between rows of vegetables that are wide asunder, or presently to come off, or in the alleys of things cultivated on beds. But this crowding mode of gardening will not be imitated by private families, ex­cept there is a want of room to bring in a proper suc­cession of crops.

Some little things of this sort, however, ought to be done; as, suppose a piece of ground for horse-radish be new planted, it may be top-cropped with radishes or spinach, &c. or if a piece of potatoes be planted wide, a bean may be put in between each set in every or every other row: a thin crop of onions upon new asparagus beds, is a common practice, drawing them young from about the plants.

The proper covering for seeds at broad cast being determined on, as to depth, let the ground lay the rougher, the deeper the seed is to be buried; and if it is to be scarcely covered, rake the ground first very level and fine. All seeds come up best when moderately pressed with the earth; for if they lie too lightly in contact with it, cold and drought more easily affect them, and when once seeds begin to germinate, they are impatient of both: If stopped in their vegetation, [Page 65] are quickly cut off. Thus, trampling seeds in, not only fixes them in their places, but tends to preserve them from injury by the weather. According to the depth it is intended to cover seeds, the feet should be set wider or nearer, i. e. the closer for the less covering. Begin to trample on the outside, walking regularly and steadily round the piece, till the middle be arrived at in the finish. This done, lay all immediately and neatly level with a wide rake, drawing off stones, &c. but do it lightly, to avoid driving in the teeth of the rake, which would remove the seed.

Patches, or small pieces, are sometimes sown with­out trampling, particularly of flowers, by drawing some of the mould on one side, and then sowing and cover­ing the proper depth with what earth was drawn off, adding a little more, if necessary. In this case, if the soil is not heavy and wet, press the surface a little with the rake head, spade, or otherwise. Seeds sown in drill, or rows, should be pressed a little, especially if the soil be light; and even beans set by a dibble, are best to have the earth pressed about them with it, or afterwards with the rake head, and they will support themselves more erectly for it, for the least wind rocks them about in loose holes. In a light soil, the best way is to lay them in a trench, and trample them in.

Directions for thinning seedling crops, and pricking them out in time, were given in the last section. Let this business be done properly, and prick out enow, that there may be to spare: perhaps a neighbour may be obliged thereby, and at any rate it is best to have plenty, l [...]st accidents happen.

Propagation by suckers is a mode of culture rather peculiar to trees and shrubs. The things to be observed in this business are, to take them up with some care from the mother plant, so as not to injure its root, nor the sucker's own root, by pulling it up without prop­erly loosening it first. The earth should be moved aside by a trowel, and then the sucker cut off by a knife, and not with a spade, as is common. Of these [Page 66] hardy things that there is plenty of, this rough way does not signify much, as to the sucker; but it may injure the root too much that it comes from. Where­ever a root appears barked, the part below should be cut off. If it is desired to succeed well, in propagating by suckers, consider that all young roots are tender, let them be trimmed to form, and planted immediately, or at least let them be covered. Suckers that have poor roots, must have their heads reduced accordingly.

Propagation by slips is of two sorts, either from the root, or stem: and several sorts of flowers and herbs are increased this way. When from the roots (if the whole is not taken up) move the earth carefully aside, and slip off by a pressure of the thumb and finger, and be cautions of hurting the fibres of the slips, planting with fine and good mould about them. Take off slips from the stem carefully by a push of the thumb, and not too many from the same plant, as it is apt to injure the place a little by tearing off some of the wood. Slips from the stem are to be considered as cuttings, and treated accordingly. They take more certainly, and make better roots than cuttings; but are apt to injure the stem from whence they are taken.

Offset is a term sometimes applied to slips from fi­brous roots; but more properly so from bul [...]o [...]s roots, which put forth many offsets. These are slipped away at the time they are taken up for removal or replant­ing, and commonly take two or three years before they bear flowers: dispose of them therefore in a nur­sery, where they may remain undisturbed while they come to a flowering state.

Division of the roots is a way of propagating many sorts of plants. To this end (of course) they must be taken up, and then carefully pulled, or cut asunder with a sharp instrument; as the case may require. It is not safe, however, to divide such roots into very small pieces, (especially if cut), as then they are apt to die; but leave them of a size sufficient, not barely to secure life, but to form immediately a full and [Page 67] handsome head. The general season for thus splitting fibrous rooted plants, is October, but it may be done early in the spring.

Cuttings of a variety of woody plants will grow, and many trees and shrubs are propagated this way; but their sap must be of a watery nature, as those plants that are gummy will not strike, (or rarely) though ever so much care is bestowed, or time allowed them. The texture of the wood of cuttings must be some­what soft, as hard wooded ones will not grow. Cut­tings should be rather short than long, and kept steady in the ground. If they are planted where there is any likelihood of their being disturbed, they may be tied to a stick, well fastened in the ground.

The season for setting slips and cuttings is for some things summer, as wall-flowers and myrtles; and for most, from October to March, but (in general) the sooner the better. It has however been said (by Mr. Miller) that spring is the best time for all, and that the sap should be in motion first. This is at least true of some things, as cuttings of the vitex, or chaste tree, (though hardy) are found to do best in spring, and so all cuttings from plants of a delicate nature do.

Cuttings should be of well ripened wood, and have the earth pressed to them, the whole length that they are in the ground; i. e. from four to six inches. Cut them with a sharp knife slopewise, and plant in a good soil, and in a situation where they only have the morn­ing sun. They must be kept cool (not wet) by occa­sional watering; but if set in fresh cow's dung, with about two inches of mould on the top, they will not need watering, and will strike freely, if the shoots are not too young and raw, or of too succulent a nature: Slips and cuttings should always be taken from the outside of plants, and be robust but not luxurious.

Laying of branches is a mode of propagation, that may be adopted for almost all forest trees, and several sorts of fruit trees and shrubs; i. e. all that will grow from cuttings, and many that will not. Layers are [Page 68] less rampant, and more fruitful than suckers; and those who [...] curious, and find a seminal variety of any tree, [...]r shrub, that is remarkably different from the original, the only way to have it preserved genu­ine is to convert it into a stool, (by cutting down) and raising plants by layers. They are made of the lower branches of the plant, and must be young and pliable, to bend down without breaking, to the depth of four, five or six inches in the ground, (as the soil is light or heavy) at which they must be held securely by good pegs; and if they cannot be brought down sufficiently deep, some earth may be raised up to them.

Let the ground about layers be kept cool by occa­sional waterings, and laying some moss, turf, litter, or rather small pebbles about them, which will not harbour insects. The part out of ground, may be supported erectly by a tie to a stick. It is a good way to slit (with a sharp knife) the part at the peg as in corna­tion layers, a little more than an inch; and some prick a few holes about the part (at a joint) with a blunt awl, to help the layer to strike root. For the hard woods, some gardeners make several slits, or chips, in the part layered in the earth, and bind the layer rather tight, just above it, with pliant wire; and soft wooded layers are sometimes twisted to crack the bark, in or­der to help the part to strike quickly.

Where there are no branches low enough to be brought into the ground, (and it is not thought good to head down for the production of low shoots, or suckers) plants may be layered by fixing a broken pot, or a box, with a slit in the side, to the height necessary to lay in a branch. A branch also, if long enough, may be thrust through the hole of a garden pot up­wards, then filled with earth, and supported by some contrivance, and shaded by some means, and frequent­ly watered. Take care not to break the buds in drawing it through the hole of the pot. By this con­trivance rooted plants being procured in pots, may be turned out with the earth about their roots undisturbed. [Page 69] A branch of a vine thus layered in November, may be next year cut off, when the fruit is ripe, and brought in the pot to table, before it is planted out.

The season for layers is (generally) the same as for cuttings, and some sorts will be well rooted in a year, but others will require two, and sometimes three years before they will be fit to be moved. Those, how­ever, that are slow to strike should be layered as soon as ever young shoots are forward enough, which per­haps may be in July or August. Cut off the leaves of the part that goes into the ground, because such young wood will not bear stripping. For propagation of fruit tres by graffing, see the two next sections.

SECTION VI.
OF A NURSERY.

THOSE private persons who have the opportunity of ground, and do not mind the expense and trouble of managing a nursery, may find satisfaction and advantages attending it. But there are so many nursery-men ready to supply our wants, that the necessity of a nursery is in a great measure done away; it af­fords, however, employment, amusement and an op­portunity for exercising ingenuity, and that particu­larly in the way of graffing.

By mea [...] of a nursery, trees are ready upon the spot [...] be transplanted without damage to the roots [...] out of ground, and the climate and soil being the same in which they are raised and are to [Page 70] grow, and to fruit, there is a sort of certainty of suc­cess, that could not otherwise be had.

There is also a great advantage in raising trees, in a very material point, in an assurance of having fruit that we know we like, by getting graffs, or buds, from trees of which we have tasted and admired the fruit. If trees are, however, to be bought, it is reasonable to hope for better success, in procuring them from a nur­sery-man living northwards than southwards.

In a nursery, stocks may be raised for fruit trees, shrubs propagated by suckers, slips and cuttings, and flowers of the biennial and perennial sorts may be sown, bulbous offsets planted, and thus a stock may be readily provided for furnishing any part of the pleasure ground. For all, or some of these objects, a spot might be allotted, if it were only the corner of a garden.

Supposing even only a little spot is made use of for a few flowers, shrubs, &c. let them be duly attended, to weed, thin, water, trim into form, support, shelter, and in short nurse, but yet not to bring any thing up tenderly, as too much, or long cover in winter, expo­ses to risk when it is taken away; the plants not being able to bear a moderately cold air. A low part of the garden that has not too much sun, is best for a little nursery; but it must not be overshaded with trees.

Suckers, slips and cuttings of any kind, should be attended to for forming a proper head; shortening the shoots, and keeping a clear stem below, and the roots free from suckers. Two years commonly fit suckers for planting out, and three years slips and cuttings. It is a good way, to fasten the two latter, if not the for­mer, to sticks, that the wind, &c. may not loosen them, and prevent their rooting.

Large plants, as young trees, &c. should be tied to stakes well fixed, at first putting out for the same rea­son. These should be seen to from time to time, that they remain fast; as also, the mats or cloths, that may have been put over hoops to shelter exotic seedlings, [Page 71] &c. from heavy rains, or severe frosts, for the wind has great power over such coverings.

The soil of a nursery should be dry, free and in heart; but not much enriched with dung, left a rank­ness of food give too great a freedom of growth, and a habit in the plants, which not being indulged by a like soil afterwards, disappointment ensue. A dungy soil also encourages worms and insects, to the injury of seedlings, and makes young plants more liable to be cut off in a sharp winter; too rank a soil also, pre­vents the juices of plants from being properly digested, and so they are less fruitful.

On ground designed to be sown, or planted in spring, if it needs refreshing, lay on a little well con­sumed dung towards winter, as directed at page 46.

A nursery should be laid out into beds of about four feet wide, with alleys of about two; and thus all the work of it will be done conveniently, and the plants will have free air to strengthen them. In the alleys may be buried some dung, which will be at hand, and useful when consumed by time and turning over, to dress the beds as they may need it.

Stocks for graffing fruit, are raised from suckers of plums, cherries, codlins, crabs, pears and quinces; and sometimes from cuttings of codlins and quinces; but those stocks raised from seeds and stones are much best, if we consult freedom of growth. If sucker stocks grow ever so well, they are apt to put forth suckers, which is not only a troublesome circumstance, but ex­hausts a tree and prevents fruitfulness. It is to be understood, that the graff will (in some measure) par­take of the nature of the stock; therefore soft, mealy fruit, ought to be propagated on austere stocks, and the contrary; tender, delicious fruits designed for forcing, should always be on smart stocks, or they be­come insipid.

Though crab stocks for apples are mostly used, yet the ripe black seed; of any other smart eating apple may be sown, either in autumn or spring Sow in au­tumn [Page 72] (October or November,) and if this sowing fails, the spring may be adopted towards the end of Febru­ary. At these times, the well ripened seeds of pears, or stones of plums, or cherries, may be sown. The stones of any sort of plum, produce stocks for apricots, peaches and nectarines; and though the white sorts are commonly preferred, the red wheat-plumb is excel­lent for the apricot; of black plums the muscle is the best.

Those seeds or stones that are saved early, or are to be kept through the winter for spring sowing, (which many prefer,) should be preserved from air in dry sand: Let them be put in a box layer upon layer, three or four courses, covering the top three inches, and guard against mice. Nuts, acorns and chesnuts are put in the ground at the same time, as also the seeds of various sorts of shrubs and forest trees.

The sowing as to depth must be according to the size of the seed. The seeds, or kernels of apples and pears may be sown in drills a full inch deep, a foot asunder, and scattered thinly in them, pressing the ground a little to them; or sow at broad cast. But take care not to use the seeds of fruit that has grown on a hollow tree, for they will not vegetate. The stones of any fruit should be sown at near two inches depth; and nuts, &c. at three or four. Stones and nuts must be set thin, and (it is of some advantage) the small end upwards, as here the shoot pushes out, or they may be laid flat. If the beds are sown all over, cover with mould previously drawn aside in the alleys; but drills have the neatest appearance, and some little use may be made of the spaces between them the first year.

Prepare the beds by digging the soils well to a full foot in depth, and let the surface be made fine: thus will the roots strike down freely to preserve themselves from drought, wet will drain away, and the young plant push strait upward: four feet beds are best.

[Page 73] The enemies of seed beds must be guarded against, as poultry, birds, dogs, cats, mice and frost; the latter by covering lightly with pea haulm or wheat straw, and the former by furze, thorns, or brush wood, and traps. If any hares, or rabbits, get at a nursery, they make sad havock in sharp weather, by barking the young plants; therefore, guard against them, and larger animals by good close fences, which will also keep out sharp winds.

During the first year, they must be kept moderately cool, by watering in dry seasons, or laying moss, or some short litter, over the beds. And as to weeding, though they must not be smothered, yet some small weeds may be suffered to grow in summer, as they help to shade the plants, and keep the ground cool. Seedling trees are very apt to suffer by drought. They should be thinned in the summer, after rain, from two inches to three or four asunder, according to their nature; and at the end of the year (i. e. when a year old) thinned to from nine inches to a foot asunder, and those drawn may be planted out at the same distance, or at least the best of them. The first winter, they should be protected from severe frosts, by some light, dry litter, which remove in mild weather.

Stocks designed to grow for full standards, should be set in rows, three or four feet asunder, and at one foot and a half in the rows; or if set at the beforemen­tioned distances, they may be transplanted again, ano­ther year or two, wider. Rows for dwarfs need not be so far asunder as those for standards: but before they are planted, the side shoots must be trimmed off, and the tap roots shortened, in order to procure a clean strait stem, and a full root.

All new planted trees in a nursery, should be pro­tected from frost, by laying pease haulm, bean, or strong wheat straw between them, which may be trampled down, and secured by throwing stones over it, or by pegging down: seedlings, or stocks, planted [Page 74] out in spring should be protected from drought also in the same manner, a month or two, (or longer,) and afterwards occasionally watered in dry weather.

The second year, in October, those left at about a foot distance in the rows, may either be taken up and replanted, cutting the tap to make bushy roots, or, taking out every other, left to grow of a size fit to graff, or inoculate there. This year, only the stronger side-shoots from the stem should be cut off; for the weaker ones will help the stem to thicken, by detain­ing the rising sap, and imbibing moisture from the at­mosphere to feed it; and the getting a strong stem is a material thing, especially for standard trees.

Stocks of any kind will be three or four years grow­ing, or two or three from planting out, before they are fit for graffing; and if strong stocks are wanted, (as for standards,) more time will be necessary: The rule of substance may be from a quarter to an inch, or more. As dwarf trees are graffed, or inoculated within five or six inches of the ground, much less stocks will do for them, than for standard trees, which are to be graffed at so many feet high; i. e. if for full-sized trees.

Stocks that are naturally of a slow growth, are cov­etted for dwarf trees, that they may not mount the wall, fill the espalier, or increase to a large head too fast. So for apples, instead of crab stocks, which are commonly of free growth, those raised from the seeds of the paradise apple are recommended, or stocks raised from cuttings of the Kentish codlin. These cut­tings should be planted strong, of an inch at least thick, and from two to three feet long. Trim the shoots of the side off, but leave one at the top. They must be set a foot deep, in a good soil, and occasionally watered. It is best to fix them in the very place where they are to bear fruit, as stocks from cuttings make weak roots, and are therefore not so safely moved, [Page 75] without danger of losing some of the fibres, none of which can be spared.

In default of these naturally dwarf-growing stocks, those raised from suckers are sometimes used, as less likely to grow off freely than seedling stocks. Layers also are proper for dwarf stocks, and they are com­monly to be had from the codlin; all layers must be carefully taken up to preserve the roots.

For pears, dwarf stocks are raised from quince cut­tings, layers, or suckers; but as quince shoots are commonly of a weak and crooked growth, the stocks from pear seeds are mostly used. But suckers may be obtained from pears, quinces, &c. by cutting down an old tree within a foot of the ground, and these being planted out for a year or two, become good stocks. If the suckers, or shoots, lay high, they may be earthed up to induce them to strike. But suckers will be often forced, by only cutting off the top of an old tree, which is an experiment to be recommended, (in pears particularly) as there will be formed a new head, and an opportunity given to graff for another, or a better sort. And if there are no suckers, there may be low-placed shoots proper for layers, of those trees that will thus strike, and most trees will, if not the first, perhaps the second year.

Stocks from suckers, for dwarf plums and cherries, are in one sense better than those raised from stones, as being less free in their growth; and the common red cherry and the black are to be preferred for stocks, whether as to suckers or seedlings. If suckers of any tree grow at a proper distance from the parent stock, they may be graffed or inoculated without removal, [...]ll wanted to plant out for fruiting, i. e. in a year or two. Suckers that are for stocks should always be planted out in autumn, and stand (at least) to the follow­ing spring or summer, twelve months before they are used.

Figs, quinces, and mulberries (as sometimes codlins) [Page 76] are raised from suckers, layers and cuttings, without graffing; but from layers is the best method, being more sure than cuttings, and more fruitful than suckers, and in one year they will be rooted. The season for both cuttings and layers (a little before or after) is October, though February is rather better for the fig. The layers from fig trees must not be taken off till the beginning of March, as when planted in autumn they may die; other layers should, however, be then re­moved.

Medlars are graffed on pear or crab, or service-tree stocks; but more commonly upon medlar and white thorn stocks; though the fruit (on the last at least) is not reckoned so good.

Vines are raised from cuttings and layers, either in autumn or spring; but for cuttings rather the latter; and if the vines are pruned in February, lay the cuttings by in dry mould or sand, till March or April. Place the layers in the ground, about four or five inches deep, leaving two or three eyes out. The cuttings should have three or four eyes in the ground, and only one out, or be about a foot or fifteen inches long, and placed a little aslant. Cuttings should have a knot of the old wood at bottom, for those cut off above, though they may strike, will not produce so good, or fruitful plants; they are also best taken from the lower part of the tree, the wood there being the most ripened. Vines are best raised where they are to grow, by open­ing a hole, and placing two cuttings in, one of which is likely to answer. Keep it to one shoot, and cut down to two eyes in autumn. Keep to two shoots the next summer, and prune down to two or three eyes in autumn, and then the vine will proceed with vigour, and bear well.

Chesnuts are raised by sowing those that are imported, three inches deep, and four asunder, in rows six inches apart; where growing two years, let them be planted out half a yard apart, in rows a yard asunder. When [Page 77] five or six feet high, they may be moved where they are to remain: If the seed is good, it will sink in water.

Walnuts are raised from well-ripened nuts, sown either in autumn or spring; and if the latter (which may be rather best) preserve the nuts in their outer coats, in dry sand. These trees are best but once moved, and their tap root preserved, if for timber, with the head as entire as possible; but if for fruit, the tap root should be shortened, to prevent the tree mounting, and the head may be cut, to accommodate it to the root, as to size. The walnut likes a dry soil, and if gravelly, it does best; and though walnut trees are many years before they come to bear, yet if it were only for the wood, posterity would have reason to commend the planter.

Filberds are raised from nuts, or suckers, and layers, the latter of which is the best method; or they may be graffed on the common nut tree. The nuts sown in autumn, or kept dry in sand till February, produce fine trees, but generally differ a little from the sorts sown, and make a variety generally for the worse. Nuts like a cool soil.

Currants and gooseberries are raised principally from suckers, slips, and cuttings, but best from the latter. When from seed, it is with a view of obtaining varie­ties, and hence the many sorts of gooseberries in some catalogues. Use cuttings, or slips, of the last year's wood, from fruitful trees, about nine or ten inches long, and set them four or five in the ground, half a yard asunder; train them to one shoot, (or at the most two,) the first year, and the next head them down to six or seven eyes, when a fine head will be formed the following year, and in the autumn they may be mov­ed where they are to fruit.

Barberries are raised from suckers, layers, cuttings, or seed sown in autumn or spring. The latter mode of propagation produces the finest shrubs, with the [...]argest [Page 78] fruit, though it is seldom practised, suckers being generally plenty.

Raspberries are almost universally propagated from suckers, being always abundant; and as this saves a year, and seed produces varieties not desirable, sowing is not to be recommended: This shrub is rarely brought into the nursery to obtain strength. Se page 38.

Strawberries are raised from seed, offsets, and runners, but almost universally from the last; plants from seed produce the finest fruit, and sometimes a variety that is superior to the original.

The young offsets of the present year, slipped in autumn, or those of the last year (which will be better rooted) slipped in spring, will do for plants, cutting off the sticky parts; but the first runners are more com­monly and properly used. Offsets early in spring, and forward runners in summer, (as soon as rooted in June,) may be planted out in cool ground, at six inches distance, by way of a nursery, in order for making new plantations towards the end of September, or in October. This is thought a good way by many, but it is seldom practised: Let the summer plants be well watered till rooted, and suffer no runners to proceed from them. The common method is to let the runners remain till September, and then, as early in the month as may be, to dress the beds, and select the strong and most bushy-rooted sets for forming new beds: It would, however, be an advantage both to the old stools, and the young plants, to suffer only the first or second runners to remain for the purpose: Thus their own beds will be the nursery for them; and except the soil is worn out, (perhaps,) the best. See page 39.

The raising of FOREST TREES is rather beside the purpose of this book. They have been mentioned as [Page 79] to the time of sowing, and their treatment is in a great measure the same as for raising stocks for fruit trees; so that to those who would do only a little in this way, much more need not be said.

Forest trees are often left to grow thick on the seed bed, and only thinned a little in the autumn following, and so from time to time as they get bigger; but a little thinning in the summer, by drawing, when the ground is moist, were surely best. If the soil that seedling trees are to be planted in be poor, let them be raised in earth somewhat sandy, and at any rate not in a rich soil.

Those who would do much in raising forest trees, should consult works written particularly on the sub­ject; and that is a judicious one by Mr. Kennedy, on this, and other articles, 2 vols. 8vo. entitled, A Treatise on Planting and Gardening, and Management of the Hot-House; but it is to be observed his chief subject on planting, is with respect to poor or waste land, in which business (as also in the other articles he has treated) he had much experience.

When young men take to gardening and planting, it is an happy circumstance, and they should lose no time in the business; for it is a thing that persons advan­ced in years have often repented of. It produces con­siderable satisfaction, and a peculiar pleasure, in the evening of life, when a man can point at good trees, and say, "These are of my own planting!"—but it were a superior thing to add, "And of my own rais­ing too." Let young planters resolve, therefore, to raise their own trees, especially of the forest kind. "There is no better, or cheaper way of raising woods and plantations, than by sowing the masts or nuts of tim­ber trees, where they are always to remain, and this is best done in spring."

It is to be observed, that the wild service, hawthorn, hol [...]y, and ash keys come up the second year; but most other seeds of trees the first. Ash keys, however, (and [Page 80] probably the others,) if they are buried in a pit with coal ashes [...]ted fine, or in a sandy earth for a year, will come up the first year they are sown.

To have good seed of the various kinds, is a thing too little attended; but on which evidently depends much. It should be well ripened, and the produce of fine healthy trees; withal, not growing near dottrel, ill-conditioned ones, the farina from the flowers of which might impregnate those of the good tree, and give its seed a degree of degeneracy. Let oak acorns be thrown into water, and those only used which sink quickly;—they should be kept a while to harden, but not too long out of ground, as they soon sprout.

In the management of a nursery, the young plants of trees and shrubs should be dug round once a year, by a downright cut of a sharp spade, a little distance from the stems, nearer or farther off, according to their age, to shorten straggling roots, and produce new ones more at home: Let this be done in October or February; the former time is best for the older plants, and the latter for young ones. The spade also may be drove under them to cut off the tap roots, where it is not an ob­ject to preserve them. By this practice, a good, full, brushy root will be obtained, fitting plants for a pros­perous removal; but it should be done a year before transplanting. Evergreens in particular would be safer to move, being thus treated. Immediately after the operation, a sound watering will be proper to settle the earth to the roots, except the ground be quite moist.

SECTION VII.
OF GRAFFING.

GRAFFING, (or graffing is the [...]s [...]rtion of a cion into a stock, or stem, raised for the purpose, and is necessary to the ensuring [...] good fruit; i. e. to have the same (or at least with [...]tle [...]fference) produced on the new tree, as that of the old one from whence the graff was taken: It is sometimes performed on the branches of trees, and may be on the roots, a piece be­ing raised out of the ground for the purpose.

If the seeds of fruit were left to grow up without graffing, they would produce a different kind from that they came from; by chance a better, but most com­monly a worse. The varieties of fruit we have, were obtained partly from seedling stocks, without graffing, and partly by an accidental difference, that the stock, or soil, may have given.

Graffing is like planting upon a plant, for though there is an union of the parts, there is in fact little other communication than a root has with the ground. The cion, or bud, draws nourishment from the stock, but no other than is properly adapted to its own pecu­liar pores, which by a chemical process (suppose by fermentation in its little bladders, or cells) it alters, so as to become exclusively its own. A great variety of fruit is produced by graff-planting from the same kind of stock, (and that perhaps a mere crab,) just as a great variety of plants are from the same soil: By this means also, some forest, and many ornamental trees and shrubs are propagated, and thus their particular varie­ties preserved, as in all the variegated sorts, &c.

[Page 82] The art of graffing is a very curious discovery, and though it requires some ingenuity to perform it, a few trials may make it familiar, and it will prove an agreeable source of amusement and satisfaction. By being able to graff, young trees may be always at hand for replacing old, or unsuccessful ones; and the pleasure of obliging a friend in this way, is peculiarly gratifying.

Skill in this ingenious art is clearly best obtained by seeing the work performed; for this is an ec [...]air­cisement superior to the plainest directions: at the first trial, to have an adept at the elbow, would be a great advantage. There are few gardeners, (even by pro­fession,) however, that practice this work, owing to the great number of nurserymen ready to supply trees. But though they raise fine trees, much disappointment has often happened in dealing with them (particularly in the sort) which might be avoided, by a man's being able to raise good trees for himself. Directions pre­cisely descriptive of the business of graffing, are there­fore here attempted, and if once understood, trials should be made without minding the discouragement of a few failures; for practice will in the end make perfect.

Proper stocks being ready, and cions, or buds pro­cured, there will be wanting a good sharp narrow bladed pen-knife, and a sharp smooth-edged pruning-knife, with some fine-wrought loam, or clay, and some good new base, or strong yarn.

The first thing to be done is, to cut off the head of the stock at the proper height, and in a fair part of the [...] making a smooth flat top: If the stock is too strong for the knife, and a saw is used, it must be smoothed with the knife after. The properest size for stocks, is from [...] an inch to a [...] inch diameter, a little more or less, however, may [...]. When a stock is to little, the cion [...] to overgrow it, and when too big, the cion does not so well, or so soon, cover the [Page 83] stock, as might be wished: yet stocks of any size can be used by one mode of graffing or other.

Dwarf trees are to be graffed within six inches of the ground, and standards as high as the stock will well bear, considering whether they are to be half or full standards; the former at about three or four feet, the latter at five or six. But trees designed for stand­ards, may be graffed, or inoculated at a lower height, the graff being trained to the desired length, by keeping it to a single stem.

The cions should be healthy and strong▪ (not of luxu­riant growth,) and taken from the outsides of fruitful trees, where the juices of the wood have been properly digested by sun and air: they should be taken (if it may be) from trees just in their prime, or at full bear­ing, and not before. Let them be cut two or three weeks sooner than wanted, and if kept longer they may not hurt, for they had better be cut a little too soon, than too late, at full length, without any side shoots.

The cions of pears, plums, and cherries, should be cut from the middle to the end of January, and at farthest not beyond the middle of February; the season mus [...], however, somewhat govern. Let them be kept all over in dry mould, close under a south wall, or some shelter, covering them with straw in wet or severe weather. ▪Some keep them in a cool room, where they will do without mould, but it would be better to set them up an end in a garden pot, with dry mould, or sand.

Cions cut early are prevented from getting two for­ward in bud; and if the buds begin to start, and look white, they seldom take. By having them as long as they may be kept before used, the sap of the stock gets in forwardness; for it must first begin to stir, and so be ready to push itself quickly into the cion, (now some­what exhausted,) to form a union with it.

[Page 84] The middle of cions is fittest for the purpose; but do not cut off the tops till they are brought out to graff, for they keep best in length. If cions are to be trans­ported to any distance, let their ends be stuck two or three inches in clay, and so matted round in a bundle; or, if wrapped [...]our [...] with a fine hay rope, and [...]eared over with clay, or a strong earth, they will not soon wither.

Some gardeners [...]ay, cions should be only of the last year's growth, and others, that the wood of the year before is best; [...] is so far a matter of indifference, that they will take much older, though (perhaps) not so certainly. As [...] medium way, if a little of the former years wood [...] with a cion of the last, and this elder wood be used for the part graffed it will be found [...] answer, in co [...]ring the stock sooner; though it must be acknowledged, that all new wood is the common practice of these who raise trees for sale; which circumstance is ordinarily a presumptive proof of right. However, [...] wood of a year's growth is not strong enough, then, at least, some of the old wood ought to be cut with it [...] and the bigger the stock is, the more this practice commends itself, as the barks will be somewhat more equal in thickness.

Proceeding to graff, take off a little of the lower end of the cion first, and then cut it in length, so as to have three or four eyes to appear above the claying: two eyes will be sufficient for a standard, but four is better for a dwarf that is to be trained. In cutting cions into length, let the top eye be just in front, or just behind, but rather the former. Use not (except upon necessity) the upper part of a cion, as the wood is too raw for the purpose, and will be shrivelled; yet strong cions (properly inserted) seldom miss through drought: indeed they will take sooner than if quite fresh.

The time for graffing is usually from Mid-February to Mid-March; but in a forward season sooner, and in a backward one sometimes later.

[Page 85] CLEFT-GRAFFING has been the most common method of propagation, and though it is not the neat­est, yet it is a certain and easy way to young practi­tioners. The stocks for this mode of graffing should be strong, about three quarters of an inch diameter, or more if it so happen; but it may be used with the very youngest stocks, having cions of the same size.

Cut off the head, as before directed, so as to have (on the sunny side) a smooth part in the stock, where the cion is to be placed, and cutting a part of the stock off slopewise, opposite to this place, leave the top, or the crown of the stock, about half an inch wide.

Then cleave the stock with a strong knife, or thin sharp chisel, about two inches deep, as near the mid­dle as possible, so as not to divide the pith, and if any roughness appears in the flit, smooth it off with a pen­knife; but something of the wedge kind must be put into the flit to keep it open to receive the cion, leav­ing proper room to put it in. Cut the cion on each side to the form of a wedge at bottom, an inch or more long, making that side which is to be placed in­wards in the stock, thinner by about one third. Put the cion in, so that its bark, and that of the stock be level; and if the bark of the stock be thick, let the bark of the cion sink in a trifle, as the current of the sap runs chiefly betwixt the bark and wood. The cion being placed, take the wedge out that kept the stock open; yet if the stock be so strong as to pinch the cion too hard, ease it by a little bit of dry wood to be left in the cleft; so, however, as not to loosen the graff, which must be held firmly; or if the stock be very strong, the wedge of the cion may be nearly of equal thickness, inside and out, which eases the barked part.

"Cleft-graffing is used in the cyder countries, some­times to old stocks very large, with cions of four or five inches in circumference: thus renewing old trees to bear fine fruit in three years, which before produc­ed nothing eatable."

[Page 86] The graff must be nicely whipped round with wet bass pulled tight, and the whole clayed over to an inch above and half an inch below, smoothing it off taper, with a trowel, or knife, dipped in water. And as this is done with a view to keep out wet, sun and air, if the clay falls off, or cracks, it must be immediately re­paired, till the season comes to take off the bandage, which is about Midsummer, or rather sooner: yet at this time some clay should still be kept on the top, to secure the cleft from wet, and so continued till the cleft is grown up. This clay must be worked up well with horse dung (having no straw in it) and a little short chopped hay to make it hold together without cracking. Let it be prepared at least some days be­fore, and be beat as mortar is, the oftener the better.

If it is desired to put in two cions, to form a tree for the wall, or espalier, there should be two clefts paral­lel to one another, one on each side the pith. Some put in two cions, merely in case one should miss; but it is not advisable. It need hardly be observed, that in this case the crown must be left whole.

With respect to the time of performing this work, remember that what has been sa [...]elates to pears, plants, and cherries: apples cannot be graffed till the beginning of March, or later as the season is, even into April.

WHIP-GRAFFING has the advantage of cleft-graffing in neatness, and not requiring the stocks to be so old by a year or two, as very small ones will do in this way; for the stock is directly covered by the cion and it takes with certainty if properly performed. The objections to this mode are, that cions suitable to proper stocks cannot always be had; i. e. near upon half an inch thick; and, that if the cion is of a more free nature than the stock, it will overgrow it, which though it does not signify for dwarf-trees, is not so well for standards. Stock and cion are to be both of a [...] or rather [...]early so, is better, the stock having [Page 87] the advantage in bigness; for thus it is not so likely to be overgrown. When the stock of a standard is over­grown by the cion, it will give it some opportunity to thicken, by slitting the bark through downwards, in two or three places.

Having cut the head of the stock off, and the cion to its length, slope the lower end of the cion about an inch and a ha [...]t, and to a point; then cut the stock to answer it, (the cut of the stock however may be a trifle wider and longer) bark against bark, and tie them together exactly to their place, and clay it. But for the greater certainty of keeping a cion to the part, two ways to assist it are used. The first is, by cutting the cion so as to leave a small shoulder at the top of the slope, and the stock so as to leave a narrow bit of the crown to answer it, and to hold it. The other way is, make a slit with the knife in the bare place of the stock downward, beginning towards the top of the slope, and so slitting it a little way; and doing the like in the sloped face of the cion, but beginning at the same distance from the lower end of it, as was done before from the top of the stock, and so carrying it upwards; and then join them by thrusting the one slice into the other, till the bare place of the cion cover the bare place of the stock:—this junction is called Lipping.

There is a sort of whip-graffing that has been denom­inated slicing, or packing, which differs only from the one just described, in that the stock is of any size▪ and this is performed by cutting the cion to a face, as before, and then taking off a slice from the (beheaded) stock, choosing a gibbons part of it so as exactly to correspond with the cut-surface of the cion, taking care to fit them so that the cion may stand erect (or nearly) when clapped to. Shouldering and lipping are here as necessary as in the former method, though shouldering is more conveniently and commonly practised.

[Page 88] GRAFFING IN THE BARK, which is sometimes called crown graffing, is perhaps as good a way as any, both for ease of operation and certainty of success; but it will hardly suit any other fruit than apples or pears, as other cions will be past use (most likely) before the bark of the stocks will peel, as the time for this bu­siness is towards the end of March, or beginning of April.

The head being cut off, make a strait slit down and through the bark from the top, at the place destined for the graff, which should be rather southerly or westerly. This score down the bark, should be nearly as long as the slope cut of the cion, which may be one and a half, or two inches. Loosing the bark a lit­ [...]ile at the top of the score, and then with some smooth instrument rather of dry hard wood, ivory, bone, or silver, than iron or steel, open the bark sufficiently to receive the cion, by pushing the instrument down a trifle below the botton of the slit. This instrument should be thin, tapered and rounded towards the point, to suit the shape of the cion's face; one side of it flat, and the other a little convex, the flat side being ap­plied to the wood of the stock; let it be rather nar­rower than the cion, that it may not loosen the bark too wide.

Cut a bit of the bark of the cion smooth off at the bottom, that it may not turn up in pushing down. It will be proper to cut the cion with a small shoulder, to rest upon the stock. And because when the cion is in, it will bear the bark up hollow from the stock, score the bark on each side the cion, so that it may fall close to the stock, and to the edges of the cion. Bind and clay neatly. In this way of graffing there is a sort of agreement between the cion and stock necessary; the cion not being too big, or the stock too small, to prevent a proper bedding. If more than one cion be not put in, the stock on the opposite side to the [Page 89] cion should be sloped up, about two inches in length, to half its thickness.

This way of graffing is used most properly with strong stocks; and sometimes is applied to large branches, and even trunks of old trees, to change the sorts, or renew the wood. In proportion to the largeness of which, from two to five or six cions are put in, and sometimes of different sorts; and if the stock be large, the more the better, as they insure the life of the stock, by receiving and carrying off the sap: in this respect the single branch of the head of an old stock may be left on, for the sap to pass off by when it begins to stir.

Having inserted the cions, and bound them, clay the top of the stock well so as to shoot off the wet. In this way of graffing, the cions are liable to be disturbed, or moved from their places by strong winds, and the best preventative is to tie small long sticks to the stocks, and then the cions to them, taking care to place the sticks so as not to force the cions; and as the shoots proceed to push they may be fastened to the sticks also, and so grow two years, when nature will need no further assistance.

SIDE-GRAFFING is done in the bark, much like inoculation, a cion being inserted instead of a bud; but remember, there must be a fluent sap first: i. e. the bark must part readily from the wood, before this mode of graffing is attempted. The head of the stock is not to be cut off, only thinned a little if it be big, and the side shoots taken away. The bark of the stock, where the insertion of the cion is to be, must be cut through in the form of the letter T, as wide and as long as is sufficient to receive the cion, cut as be­fore, with a slope face of at least an inch long, taking advantage, (if it may be) of a part of the stock, that is a little gibbous. Let the bark of the stock be neatly raised to receive it, but yet no more than ne­cessary; [Page 90] a little bit of the bark may be sliced off the part that is over the cross cut, to receive the cion the better.

Side-graffing may be done also by taking off [...] bark to the size of the cion's face (exactly,) and sipping may be used to keep it in its place: in this case the operation should be performed somewhat sooner in the season than in the former method. When the graff [...] appear to have taken, the head of the stock may be cut off, or a stump may be left above the graff till another season, before it be clean cut away.

APPROACH GRAFFING, or INARCHING, is per­formed when the stock we would graff, and the tree we would propagate, grows so near together, as to be brought conveniently into contact, and the nearer the graff and the stock are of a size the better. This mode of propagation is esteemed the surest of all, as it will conjoin branches of trees which are scarcely congenerous in their nature; and in truth, some things cannot be so well propagated any other way. It is a method seldom used for common fruit trees; but if any one wishes to try the experiment, the stock or stocks must be planted at least a year before, first mak­ing the soil good, as it may need it, being so near another tree, for it of course must be close.

Plants in pots or tubs being easily brought together, are frequently propagated this way; so that inarching is used much in green-houses and hot-houses for various things, as oranges, lemons, pomegranates, jasmines and vines sometimes: oranges and lemons thus treated in May will be united by August.

The method of inarching is, bend the best situated young branch of the tree or shrub to be propagated, to the stock to be graffed, and having determined on the part at which most conveniently to fix the shoot; cut the bark of that part of the shoot off, with nearly half the wood, (not to touch the pith) to the length of about [Page 91] three inches for a strong branch, or less for a weaker. Then cut exactly so much of the bark and wood of the stock off, as will receive the cut part of the branch, or shoot, so as to bring bark and bark in contact in every part; and if the contrivance of lipping be used, it will secure them better together. Bind and clay, and if in open ground, fix a stake to tie the work so that the wind may have no power over it; a tie also to a neat stick may be proper for those inarched in pots, &c.

As soon as the graff has taken, which will be probably in four months, (except in the harder woods,) let the head of the stock be steadily cut off with a keen knife, three or four inches above the binding, which then removing, bind and clay again, to remain about a month. In March following, cut off the branch from the parent close to the graffing, and also the stub of the stock that was left. The head of the stock is sometimes cut off before graffing, in which case a sloping cut half way the thickness of the stock, is to receive the cion; but here the graff and the stock must be both of a size, or nearly so. There has been this distinction made, to call it inarching when the head is cut off, and approach graffing when it is not. Gardeners mostly prefer the former method.

BUDDING or INOCULATION, though here last mentioned, is the most considerable mode of propaga­tion, and is a pretty summer business. Apricots, peaches, and nectarines are always propagated this way, and plums and cherries may be. Pears are sometimes budded, and apples have been, but the success is un­certain. Not only fruit, but forest, and ornamental trees and shrubs are inoculated. The branches also of trees as well as stems are sometimes budded, which is best done on two years wood, though it may be on both younger and older.

Inoculation begins as soon as good shoots of the present year can be had, so that the season may be [Page 92] reckoned from Mid-June to Mid-August; but about Old-Midsummer, or rather after, is the usual and best time for the work: it should be done in a morning or evening, (the latter rather best,) except the day be cloudy, when any part of it will do.

Apricots being first ready, the budding season begins with them. The stocks to be used are those of the plum (raised from stones or suckers) when half an inch thick, a little under or over, and the operation is to take place from four to eight inches from the ground.

Peaches are best budded on stocks from stones, which may be either of peach or plum; but rather the latter, as making the more durable trees. The wheat plum, (a white one, ripe in August,) is reckoned the best by some, and the muscle plum is preferred by others; but any free growing sort will do, giving the prefer­ence to those mentioned.

Nectarines are propagated on the same sort of stocks; but if the plum stock is first budded with an apricot (very low,) and, when of proper size, budded with the nectarine, the advantage is reckoned that it takes best so, and comes to a better bearing, producing an improved fruit, and particularly the red Roman necta­rine. Peaches are also sometimes thus double-budded; and apricots may be expected to be less luxuriant by this treatment, in which case the first bud should be of the Brussels sort.

Plums and cherries may be inoculated on sucker stocks of any kind; yet if a free growth is required, (as for standards,) stocks raised from stones are best; i. e. plums on plums, and cherries on cherries, though they will take upon each other.

Pears, if for standards, should be inoculated on pear stocks, and on those raised from seed, rather than suckers, but if for dwarfs, quince stocks may be best used, to keep the trees from growing off too fast, and so getting soon too big for their allotted space; white thorn stocks are sometimes used with the same view, but the fruit gets stony.

[Page 93] Stocks for budding dwarfs should be three years old; but for standards four or more, though small stocks may be budded for standards also, (as mentioned in the case of graffing,) if the shoot proceeding from the bud be trained to a single stem, till of sufficient height to be topped in order to form a head. Standards should be from three to seven feet high, before they are topped, according to the height they are desired to be of, as half or full; but dwarfs for trailing can hardly branch off too low, being budded at five or six inches, or less from the ground, the shoot from the bud should be shortened (at a year's growth) to five or six eyes, or to four that are well placed; i. e. with a lateral direction for the wall.

Though the longer inoculation is deferred, the riper the shoots will be for furnishing buds; yet there is an advantage in beginning as early as may be, that if the budding appears not to have taken, the work may be done again before the season is out. Or, to insure suc­cess, two buds may be inserted in the same stock, (but not in a direction under one another) and if both fail this year, the stocks may do again the next, as the heads in this mode of graffing are not to be cut off till the spring following the inoculation, because the in­oculated buds do not push till then, when they will grow off apace.

Sometimes, however, in a very early inoculation, the bud will shoot the same year; but it is not desira­ble, as it comes weak, and is likely to be destroyed in the winter.

Let the cions to procure buds for inoculation, be taken only from the outside branches of healthy and fruitful trees. If early budding be attempted, it will be proper to cut off some spare shoot, (not fit for the purpose,) to try first whether the bark will yet readily part from the wood.

The season being right, and the cions at hand, hav­ing a sharp narrow bladed knife, and neat though wet [Page 94] bass, set about the work adroitly, for the quicker it is done the better; but "make no more haste than good speed." Keep the bud, as much as may be from sun and wind: they must not be taken from the upper part of the cions, as the bark and buds there are are too raw. If cions or buds be brought from any distance, they should be conveyed in damp (not wet) moss, or grass, and never kept above a day and night, but the sooner they are used the better.

Before the buds are prepared, get the stock ready to receive them, by taking off lateral shoots, leaving an uncut single stem. At the part fixed on for the in­oculation, which should be smooth, and rather on the north side, cut the bark through to the wood, in form thus T, the cross and the down slit being of the length necessary to take in the bud, which may be cut with from one to two inches of bark; putting the point of a knife (or some instrument rather not of iron or steel) into the top of the down cut of the stock, raise the bark all the way to the bottom, so that it will just re­ceive the bud easily. There are knives made on pur­pose for budding with flat ivory hafts.

To procure proper buds, put your knife in (sup­pose) about three-fourths of an inch above the [...]ye, and with a slope downwards cut the cion half through, then do it at the same distance below the eye, and sloping it upwards cut up the middle of the wood, till the knife meets the upper incision, so the eye will be directly in the middle.

The next step is, to separate the wood from the bark, which is to be done thus: with your nail, or the point of a knife, loosen the bark at the top, and strip it from the wood; or rather with a swan or large goose quill, made in the form of an apple scoop, (hav­ing a regular smooth edge) push it down between the bark and wood, pressing against the wood.

Examine the inside of the bark, and it there is a [Page 95] cavity just behind the eye, or bud, it is good for noth­ing, and another must be procured; for the cavity shews, that the root of the bud is with the wood, in­stead of being with the bark.

The leaf that grows by the eye is to be cut down to near its footstalk, so as to leave only a little bit of it to hold the bud by, while inserting it in the stock.

See that the bark of the stock is loosened a proper length and breadth, and if when the bud is put in, it should prove a little too long, cut the spare part off; so that the top of the bud (being squared) falls in strait with the cross cut of the stock. Thus fixed, bind it moderately tight in its place with the wet bass, begin­ning at the bottom and passing by the bud, go on to the top, or rather above it. Care must be taken that the bud is not hurt, and it is to be left only just start­ing out between the bass:—This is the mode of inoc­ulation commonly used.

Some gardeners insist, that it is best to cut the bark of the stock thus T, and so insert the bud by pushing it upward instead of downward, because by this method it shoots off wet effectually.

Others squaring the bud to an oblong, clap it to the place to be inoculated, and scoring the stock to its size, cut out the bark of the stock from within the lines, and having put the bud to the place, bind it in: but great exactness must in this way be observed, that the edges of the bark do regularly touch.

Another way, and perhaps as good as any, is this—clap the bud to the stock, (the bud being first squared) and rather before it is separated from the wood, and score the bark on each side, and across the top; and instead of scoring the bark at the bottom, do it a quarter of an inch (or rather more) above the bottom ends of the side lines; then take off the bark between the lines, and place the bud, by pushing it down this piece of bark, (being first loosened) which will serve to hold it. Bind close, but not over tight. If in this method the bud fits exactly, it is a very sure and neat [Page 96] way of inoculating. As the scoring of the stock is best done before the barking of the bud, a little allow­ance must be made, as when the bud is separated from its wood, it will spread a trifle wider.

Lastly, budding has been performed by making a down slit in the bark of the stock, and a cross one in the middle of this slit, and so raising the four corners to receive the bud; making in this case, the bud rather under an inch in length; but it is difficult thus to in­sert the bud without injuring it, and this method i [...] therefore not to be recommended.

If the buds have taken, it will be seen in about three weeks, by their appearing fresh and plump, and not dark, flat and shrivelled. As often as any shoots appear below the budding, cut them off, and also some of the shoots above, if there are many of them; for it is not proper that an inoculated stock should have a large head. In a month loosen the bandage, by tak­ing it off, and putting it on gently again, for another month.

In March, cut the head of the stock off with a keen knife, close behind the budding, in a sloping direction; some leave three or four inches of the stock above the bud till the following spring, and it will serve to tie the new shoot to, in order to keep it to a proper erect direction. Suffer no shoots from the stock, but rub the buds off as soon as they appear.

A few observations concludes this long article of prop­agation by graffing and budding. Persons designing to graff, are apt to neglect cutting their cions till they get two forward, therefore remember to be in time. To do the work well, there must be good tools, &c. and particularly a keen knife. Choose as good a day as can reasonably be expected, for bad weather oc­casions hurry and embarrassment, and the patience necessary to success may not be possessed: but defer [Page 97] not too long on account of the weather. In handling cions, take care of their eyes, that nothing bruises them, and be particularly careful of the buds used for in­oculation.

Some motion of the sap is proper, at the time of all graffing, but a free motion is necessary for the mode of graffing in the bark, and as on the sunny side of the stock it moves freest, and is the best aspect as to wea­ther, insertion of graffs, though not buds, if it can be avoided, should be always on a part of the stock in­clining to the West. It may be of use to shade the in­oculated buds a few days, by a leaf, or a bit of paper. Silver, (as a fruit knife) is best to raise the bark with, or any thing is preferable to iron.

Though inoculation may seem the slowest mode of propagating fruit trees, it proves eventually the quick­est; and is the most certain way to produce free grow­ing trees, with a well covered stock. The insertion of a bud has also the advantage of a cion, as a failure does not hurt the stock so much.

It is to be advised, that some mark be affixed, (or notch the stock) to be assured of the sort; an uncer­tainty of which is often a great mortification. Many words have been necessarily employed in directing to the business of graffing, but let not that circumstance deter ingenuity from setting about the work; or a few failures prevent that perseverance which will at length be crowned with success, and be a pleasing re­ward. Though private persons are apt to think much of the difficulty of this art, yet the ease, celerity, and certainty, with which Nurserymen perform it, seem to make it nothing at all: such is the ability which much practice gives.

SECTION VIII.
OF PLANTING.

AS so much depends upon proper planting, every attention ought to be paid to it. This business may be arranged under these several heads. 1. The choice of plants. 2. The act of planting. 3. The soil. 4. The situation. 5. The season.

1. As to the CHOICE of plants. Trees ought to be the best of the kind; and therefore no care in raising, or caution and expense in purchasing should be spared, that at least there may be a fair prospect of satisfaction. To plant, and after waiting a long time, to be disap­pointed, is rather a serious misfortune; especially when the work is to be begun again late in a man's life.

Having some confidence that the sort is right and good, the plants must be seen to, that they are healthy; they should appear sound as to any external injury. If they are of a squat, weak, bushy growth, there can be little expectation of their becoming good plants; though it may sometimes happen that a tree of poor promise will rally.

Trees graffed on old stunted stocks, or that have often been removed, or frequently cut down, seldom grow off well in any soil, and should be rejected. Let those that are purchased be seen to, as nurserymen often have suck trees, having remained long on hand.

Good y [...]g trees have a smooth, bright, and strait appearance, rather of a robust growth than otherwise: though the most luxuriant are not to be preferred, for their wood is raw, and wants that firmness which is [Page 99] necessary to fruitfulness: they may get off this crude state in time, but the moderately free growers are best.

Young fruit trees are the best to plant, for though old ones may sometimes succeed with good manage­ment, yet they are liable to stunt, and d [...]indle off; whereas the former establish their roots quickly, and grow off apace; so that young trees planted at the same time with old ones, generally overtake them in a few years.

2. The ACT of planting. Trees taken up for planting should be dug carefully, with (as much as pos­sible) their full roots. Many a good tree has failed merely by being taken up badly, and then planted so. The roots of fruit trees are often not only mangled, and too few, but are also put into the ground without any dressing or care.

The less roots are exposed to the air the better, and the sooner trees are planted after being taken up, the more likely they are to succeed well. Trees properly packed (i. e. the roots well covered) may live out of ground ten days or a fortnight, in autumn, or early in the spring; but nothing except necessity will justify the keeping a tree out of ground a day longer than can be helped.

It is be determined for any length of time beforehand, when and where to plant, the opening the ground, and exposing the holes to the sun and air, (and if it may be to frost also) will both correct crudities in the soil, and enrich it from the various stores of the atmosphere; this opening should be as deep and wide as convenient, that the salutary influences of the air may be extended.

Some people do the work of planting very idly, as if it were sufficient to see that a tree has a root, and that it was only necessary to bide it in the ground. Every one who plants trees should stand by himself, or have some trusty person to see the work done, or the neces­sary labour may not be bestowed. It is frequently the way (for instance) just to dig a hole no bigger than will [Page 100] receive the roots of a tree twisted and forced in; but being thus cramped, and the vessels of their roots dis­torted and broke, it cannot be expected that such un­natural treatment should answer.

But the above violence is not all; the roots are con­fined as in a prison, (in a tub or a bason,) which if the soil is strong detains wet, and chills and cankers, if not rots the fibres. To plant well, the roots of a tree should have liberty to strike out freely every way, and the ground well broke for their easy progress. Let the [...]de for a tree be loosened about two feet deep, and as wide as will be much more than sufficient to receive the roots in their fall spread as they grow, with little or no direction given contrary to the original one.

When the tree is to be planted, take out the earth a little lower than necessary for the roots, at the depth the tree is designed to stand; then dig the bottom to the full spade's depth. Trim any dead or damaged part of the root clean off; thin it of the finer fibres where withered, or matted thick, and the more, according to the time the tree has been out of the ground, for the fine roots soon die, and if dead, ought not to be on. Trees moved only from one part of the garden to ano­ther, need have but few fibres cut off, but some ampu­tations are necessary to help the sooner to new roots, which shortening always forces out. If the root had a tap, (or downright spur,) it should be cut to the gene­ral level of the other roots, and never be left longer than a foot from the highest part of the root. Those great roots that lay auk ward, or crossing, should be judiciously rectified with a sharp knife; be cautious, however, of taking off too much, for the head will pro­duce stronger branches in proportion to the goodness of the root. Though it be little practised, it may be very well to apply some wound mixture to large ampu­tations, especially of stone fruit.

The head of a tree should be somewhat conformed to the root. Some reduction of the head may take [Page 101] place at the time of planting; yet not all that may be thought necessary should be taken off at first; but let alone till the sap stirs at spring, and then care should be taken to proportion the head to the root; and not leave on a tree too many buds, for a few stout branches are preferable to many weak ones. This is the or­dinary practice with respect to wall trees, and why not of all others? See articles, Orchard and Pruning, Sect. 3 and 12.

The hole being made as directed, form a little hillock in the middle of it to lay the roots on and round; clap the tree upon it, and having thrown on a little good and well-broke mould, give the tree a gentle, shaking lift, which will let the earth in close among the roots, and bring the tree up towards its proper height; by not doing this the roots are sometimes turned up at the ends, instead of laying rather downwards: Set the tree high enough to allow for a setting of the earth, in proportion to the depth it was loosened. Young trees, however, should have their roots nearly upon a level, and so must have their ends raised with the hand, if they are suspected to be too much depressed. The mould should be thrown on gently, a little at a time; and if some that is finer and richer than the rest be put about the roots, just to cover them, it would be a trou­ble that would answer, helping the tree to strike fresh roots, and grow off the faster.

Trample the mould gently about the roots, beginning at the outside of the hole, and so towards the stem. Finally, leave the ground a little hollow on the top, to receive rains, or waterings.

As to depth, trees in a light dry soil may have the top of their roots settled at about five or six inches be­low the surface, and in a strong soil about three inches; or it may be a general rule to plant a tree no deeper than it was before; for trees planted too deep never do well. Always keep the roots of a tree above a heavy clay, for the making trenches in it will not answer, and [Page 102] an unhealthy tree may be looked for. See next article Soil. If the good soil is thin, the roots should be al­most planted in sight, raising the earth about them; and if care is taken to protect the roots of such high set trees from frost the first winter, and drought the first summer, they will generally do well. But all new planted trees should be somewhat covered about their roots from extremes of weather for a time; either with good solid turf, litter with stones on it, or stones alone, which by their weight help to hold the tree fast. Where plenty of moss is to be had, it is a neat material to lay about roots to keep them from drought.

When litter alone is laid about trees (particularly if against an old wall) mice are apt to harbour in it, and bark them.

Watering is to take place if trees are planted early in autumn; but in winter it should not. This settles the mould about the roots, but let them not be sodden with it. Late in spring water will be safely and necessarily applied, and must be repeated also if dry weather; but yet with caution, for many new planted trees have been injured (if not killed) by keeping the roots wet. Late planted trees should be occasionally watered through­out the summer.

In planting wall trees, (the bud outwards) try in the hole which way they will best stand against the wall; and if they have a head designed to remain for train­ing, place it carefully for the branches to be laid to; but keep the tree as far from the wall as may be, (sup­pose eight or nine inches) that the roots may have the more room to strike behind: cut off, or shorten much all roots whose direction is towards the wall. Nail the tree to it, that wind may not disturb the roots.

In planting standards it will be proper to fix a stake near the stem to fasten the tree, in order to prevent the roots being disturbed by wind, which prevents their striking out new fibres; rocking about opens the ground also about the stem, and admits frost, by which a tree [Page 103] is sometimes lost, or succeeds badly. This staking is best done while the holes are open, and the roots of the tree seen, as by driving a stake in afterwards, it might damage some principal root, and the hurting a root is to be avoided as much as bruising a branch. Take care to fix the stake firmly, and to tie the tree so with a hayband, that it may not easily get galled. Twist the band close round the tree first, and then round the stake and tree.

In late spring planting it will be found of good use to make a mixture (in a barrow) of fresh cow dung and fine mould, half and half, to put about the roots, which will greatly help to keep them cool, and plentifully to nourish them. In default of cow dung, a puddle of fine sifted mould and water will do. Or, if the soil is light, mix half mud from a pond or ditch.

Circumstances may occur to make summer planting desirable, if it could be safely done. It is certain that roots quickly strike in summer, and if the head of the tree is a little reduced, and some shading contrived for a while, even wall trees may be then planted with cow dung. But the greatest point in this business is, that the tree be not out of the ground so long as to dry the roots; by some means they should be kept cool, and if dried, put into pond water a few hours before planting. Trees thus planted will not need watering for a long time, and must not have it, for over moisture might rot the delicate new fibres.

3. The SOIL for planting fruit trees should be good, or nothing pleasing can be expected: It should be sweet and nourishing; and therefore if not naturally so, it is to be improved by art and labour. Tillage or breaking up a soil, to expose it to the atmosphere, is of much benefit. See article Soil, in the Formation of a Garden. Sect. 3.

It nothing more can be done at the present, at least make the ground fairly good where the tree is to be set. Two or three barrows of fresh earth, if of a good [Page 104] quality, is preferable to dung: but if the soil really needs manure, let it be well incorporated by the spade; and work some rotten dung in deep, below the roots, which will be properly consumed before the new roots reach it.

In the case of only making the soil good for the pre­sent, the first opportunity, (or at least before the roots spread far) should be taken to extend the benefit as far as may be, even to several yards round; and let this work be done deep enough, or as low as the part made good for first planting, i. e. two feet, or as near upon it as the case will allow. In a few years this at­tention should be extended ( [...]n bad soils) to where it may be thought possible for the roots to have reached. For want of this, a tree sometimes fails when just come to its full size and principal time for bearing. When roots reach a weak, ill conditioned, poisonous soil, the tree must fail; and it should be remembered that the extreme branches of the root are what chiefly nourish a plant.

Fruit trees (though they like a rather strong soil) will not prosper, or hardly grow, in a cold clay; but in a soil that is tolerable above they may be planted, by improving, or raising this as the case may require, and cautiously avoiding going into the clay. Some persons have laid flat stones, or tiles, below the root to a considerable distance, which perhaps may answer; but it seems advisable only to do it about a foot square, (or a little more,) as this may give the roots an hori­zontal direction, which if they keep, all will be well.

It has been recommended to do this in all kinds of soil, in order to insure a more superficial spread, than without such contrivance could be expected.

If the soil be good, and at the same time strong, above any bad soil, and the roots take to run towards the surface, it is surprising how trees will thus pros­per. When planting takes place superficially, let a hil­lock of earth be laid round the roots, and the tree se­cured [Page 105] by a stake for two or three years to hold it steady; and keep turf or moss about the root, till the tree is well established.

In a soil that trees are found to canker in, and get otherwise diseased, it is of no use (generally speaking) to wait their getting better; but if there is any spot of a more promising quality, trees that are not too old and far gone may be removed there, and perhaps recover, as it has often happened; but let the root be examined, as well as the head, to cut out any diseased part. If the shoots should be weak the first year, prune down close the second, and strong wood may possibly follow.

With respect to the soil that suits every particular kind of tree, there is some variety of opinions; and though it were clear what best agrees with each, yet trees must after all be planted in different soils, as each situation is. In what may be truly called a good soil, all trees will do very well, and in a bad one none will. No situation or management avails when the soil is poisonous, as some sorts are, by their coldness, acidity, sulphureous, or metallic qualities. Generally speaking, a true loam suits every thing. See Formation of a Garden, Sect. 3.

Of the soil that best suits each sort of tree, (though this be mentioned elsewhere in different places,) the following particulars seem to have a pretty common consent. Vines love a rich dry soil, gravelly or sandy, if it does not bind. Figs like much the same soil, though they need not so rich a one. Apri [...]ots flourish in a light loam; but peaches and nectarines should have a somewhat strong loam, and the latter needs the warmer or richer soil of the two. Pears like a strong but dry soil; apples a strong and a cool one, if it is not wet. Cherries, plums, walnuts, and mulberries prefer a dry, sandy, gravelly, or light soil, though they will grow in a stronger; notwithstanding plums do very well in a moist soil, and produce the larger fruit in it, yet the flavour is far inferior. Quinces flourish most [Page 106] in a rich moist soil, by a brook or river's side, or where a rich wash from sinks, or dunghills, runs occasionally about their roots; in a dry soil their fruit is small, though higher flavoured: It is an universal rule, that fruits are forwarder and more grateful in warm soils, but of less size.

Though the vine be planted in a right soil, yet it will require to be fed and enlivened with some spiri­tuous manure, either in autumn or spring. For this purpose water impregnated with sheep's dung and fresh urin has been used. The top soil being removed, bullock's or hog's blood is sometimes applied; but a little sheep's dung, or that of poultry, dug in regularly every autumn, is a good, neat, standing rule. The dung of sheep and poultry should be used in the pro­portion of a tenth part of that of horses.

That soils should be accommodated to each particular sort of tree, the analogy between plants and animals is reasonably urged; that as the latter require their pe­culiar food, so do the former;—but it is to be observed, that plants receive a great deal of their nourishment from the air, and do not depend so much on the soil as is supposed.

4. The SITUATION properest for planting any par­ticular kind of tree is to be considered; for some like a low, some a high, some a moist, some a dry situa­tion; but it is spoken here chiefly of fruit trees. The general situation of a country, will in a measure rule; for though England be but an island, it has many cli­mates in it, and certain plants will do better in one place than another, (even within the space of a few miles,) as to effects from weather. The difference between hill and valley in the same place, is something, so that in the latter the tender blossoms of trees shall escape, when in the former, unkind winds shall cut them off:—not that valleys are always safe, for they have sometimes destructive n [...]sts. To give an exam­ple:

[Page 107] Peas sown to stand the winter, in a garden on a hill, and in another only a hundred yards below, the former exposed, and the latter well sheltered, will de­monstrate what situation will do; for the peas below will live when the others are cut off, and perhaps come in a week earlier, when both survive uninjured.

In very exposed situations, especially northwards, little fruit can be expected from the more delicate wall trees; it is prudent therefore to avoid planting in cold places the tenderest, or the earliest, or the latest sorts.

The difference of latitude between Middlesex and Northamptonshire makes commonly a fortnight in the coming in of many of the productions of the garden; so that, generally speaking, what is called an October peach is of little worth in the latter country, though in the former it may do well; except there is plenty of walling for experiment, therefore never think of plant­ing late fruit in a bleak aspect.

The farther north, however, is not a certain rule for the productions of the garden being proportionally later; for in some parts of yorkshire they produce veg­etables and fruits, nearly as early as about London. This has been ascribed to subterraneous heat from coal beds or minerals, acting as natural hot-beds; but it may be attributed simply to a rich, warm, and deep soil, having gravel below it, especially when in a valley sheltered by winds on the cold side. It has been observed, "in some grounds in the same climate, fruit will ripen fifteen days, or more, before some others, not far off from them, in ground of a different temper." A happy soil is therefore the great desidera­tum in gardening.

With regard to situation, we should consider the garden itself, and not plant choice fruits in a cold or shaded part of it: the aspect must be good for them as well as the soil. From an error of this sort, Vines have frequently been planted and pruned for years, producing nothing but wood and leaves.

[Page 108] Figs and vines, nectarines and peaches should have a full sun, or little fruit can be expected from them; and Apricots ought to have a good share of it, though they do very well (in some places) against an east wall, and sometimes against a west. An east aspect is not so safe as a south one, as to the embryo fruit at the time of blossoming, nor does it bring the apricots so forward; but the fruit is commonly better: it has the earliest sun all the morning, and the benefit of a gentle warmth afterwards, by the wall, (the sun shining hot on the other side,) if the tree is nailed properly close. See Formation of a Garden, articles Situation and Aspect.

From what has been said on situation, the young gardener will be led to make some discrimination in planting, and not hope to succeed when working against nature. If his garden is small, let him contract his desires, and proceed upon sure grounds: but if large, experiments and risks are not of much conse­quence. Favourable and unfavourable seasons make a great difference; but hope should have a foundation, and we cannot expect a fortunate end, without the use, of probable means.

5. The SEASON for planting is a matter of conse­quence, though some persons are apt to neglect it who should, and do, know better. The proper rule is, to plant as early in the season as can be; so that if the ground is ready, trees had best be put in when the leaves begin to fall, i. e. in October, yet some good planters have recommended an earlier time than this; and scruple not to plant all the latter half of September, though the leaves be full on. Some trees will form fresh roots in the winter, and those which do not, get so united with the earth, and prepared for starting in the spring, that they are ready to answer a supply of juices much more freely than when late planted; and consequently the new shoots [...] be stronger. Let nothing but necessity put off planting in autumn, except [Page 109] indeed the soil be naturally wet and then the work done early in spring is proper.

The season for planting in a dry soil may be all winter for deciduous trees, i. e. those that leave their leaves; but all evergreens (except the Scotch sir, which may be planted at any time,) should be moved early in autumn, or late in spring, and rather the latter, as they are somewhat uncertain in taking kindly to the ground, especially if the weather is unfavourable at the time of planting. The oak and larch (though deciduous) are removed safest in the spring. In spring-planting, al­ways give a sound watering at the time, and it late in the spring repeat it once a week in dry weather.

Let even the meanest trees and shrubs, as currants, gooseberries and raspberries have the like attention paid to them as to their superiors; for their fruit will prove the finer, and the argument is cogent for an October planting of these, as they are to bear the next season. [...] men be taken up, and planted with care: for the best way of doing every thing ought to be the rule of practice in all cases, and a gardener should follow it above all persons. See lists of trees, section 19.

SECTION IX.
OF SHRUBS, SHRUBBERIES, &c.

WE are indebted to SHRUBS for much of the pleasure we enjoy in our gardens and planta­tions, and they justly merit every care, though they produce us no (or few) edible fruits. They assist in forming an agreeable shade, they afford a great variety of flowers with leaves differently tinged, and are standard ornaments that give us no great trouble.

Of shrubs too little care (however) in general is taken to plant them properly, or even to choose good plants for the purpose; and hence they often fail to flourish, and are mortifying us with a dwindling growth, and unhealthy appearance, when they should have become objects of admiration.

Many shrubs, are raised from suckers, others from layers, some from cuttings, and most may be propa­gated from seeds, which though the slowest method, generally produces the finest plants. Before they are planted out for ornaments, they should be trained two or three years in a nursery, to be formed into a full and proper head.

Though deciduous shrubs may be planted almost at any time, yet October, is much the best month, especially if a moist season; the exception being made as to a cold wet soil, in which all sorts of planting (as observed before) is best done in spring.

Evergreen shrubs must be cautiously planted, and should not be ventured upon in winter, and even in autumn and spring ought not to be meddled with in [Page 111] harsh weather: drying winds are apt presently to in­jure their roots. It is a good rule, let the weather be what it will, and the sorts what they may, to expose the roots to the air no longer than can be helped; evergreens should therefore be immediately planted af­ter they are taken up, and their roots also very care­fully preserved whole.

As shrubberies, clumps, &c. are often made on poor or indifferent ground, the soil should be previously cleared, dug, and trenched, and that as long before planting as may be. For spring planting, this work ought to be done in autumn or in winter, that the soil may have the benefit of frosts, and other helps from the atmosphere, which is a circumstance of much con­sequence in the case.

Tillage not only saves manure, but is superior to it, where time can be allowed exhausted ground. In planting shrubs and trees, it is desirable to do without dung, as much as possible; and therefore a little foot, or turf-ashes, &c. sprinkled over the ridges of trenched ground is proper; and if the trenches were turned over once a month, the advantage would be fully answerable to the trouble.

As spring is, on the whole, rather the fittest time for moving evergreen shrubs, and as the deciduous sorts do then also very well, shrubberies and clumbs will prop­erly enough be the work of March, a little earlier or later, according to the soil and season. Light sandy soils should always be planted in good time, and any fair weather that appears settled, should not be neg­lected; the beginning of April, however, is by some reckoned the best season for planting shrubs. A good medium way is to plant the deciduous sorts the begin­ning of March; and, leaving places for the evergreen kinds, plant them the end of March, or the beginning of April. But it were still a better way (if the ground is in order) to plant deciduous shrubs in autumn, and the evergreen sorts in spring.

[Page 112] If autumn be the season fixed for planting, it will be proper before the frost comes in to cover the roots of shrubs, and especially of evergreens, with litter, and indeed at spring it is proper to do so; for neither frost nor drought should be suffered to affect new planted trees, or shrubs. It will be proper to have the outside plants of a new shrubbery, towards the sun, covered about the roots all summer.

What has been said of the act (or method) of plant­ing fruit trees, should be observed of shrubs. In dressing the roots of shrubs, shorten them moderately, prune the heads so as to form them handsomely. Settle the ground to the roots by watering, and leave a little hollow about them for future watering, if the season should require it. Let the taller plants be tied to stakes, as the wind is apt to disturb them, and hin­der their speedy rooting.

The proper disposition of shrubs, where there are many to be planted, should be considered in several particulars; for the beauty and prosperity of a plan­tation, depends greatly upon it.

The distances must be according to the size they usually attain. Some grow off slow at first, but after­wards get large; but still these should be rather con­sidered in a middling way, otherwise the ground will be a long time naked. Some sorts will require not more than a three feet distance, others four, five, or six; but as they are small, when planted, and perhaps much of a size, the future height and spread, are fre­quently not considered.

The situation, to accommodate them as well as may be, according to their tender or hardy nature, should be attended to; not to plant evergreen shrubs, or the more delicate deciduous sorts, on the outside towards the N. or N. E. and as there may be a variety and ir­regularity in the ground, the lower parts and deeper soil may be more suitable to some, and the higher and shallower may suit (or at least do very well for) others.

[Page 113] Tender shrubs should not only be sheltered for pro­tection, but be planted in a dry spot open to the fun: Some things will live abroad in a dry and poor soil, that would seldom survive a winter in a rich and moist one. The more towering sorts must be placed behind, and the less so before them, gradually declining to the low growing ones, in a sort of theatrical order: This is necessary in a shrubbery, and indeed all plantations, but more so in the disposition of plants in clumps, keep­ing the centre high, and falling gradually towards the edge. Thus the stems, and naked parts of the higher plants are hid by those before them, and the whole appears to the eye a full scene of verdure.

The season of shrubs flowering and leafing is a ma­terial point to provide for, by a proper distribution, that there may be a sprinkling of decoration every month, in every part. And in this business, an equally dispersed mixture of the evergreen, and deciduous sorts is necessary to be observed.

As to the proportion of this mixture it will depend upon taste, and the opportunity of procuring the one sort or the other; but the circumstance may direct (in a measure) whether the plantation of shrubs be about the house, or at a distance from it. In the former case, more evergreens should be made use of, as in sight in winter: generally speaking, perhaps, one evergreen, and two deciduous shrubs, or one and three, may form an agreeable shrubbery for view at all times.

A regularity in planting shrubs is not necessary as to lines, but is rather to be avoided, except just in the front, where there should always be some low ones, and a border for flowers, chiefly of the spring, as sum­mer ones are apt to be drawn up weak, if the shrub­bery walks are not very wide. The flowers should be of the lowest growth, and rather bulbous rooted. To­wards the edge may be planted aconites, snow-drops, crocusses, primroses, violets, polyanthuses, hepaticas, wood anemonies, daffodils, cowslips, &c. In open shrubberies [Page 114] an edging of strawberries is proper, and the hautboy preferable, on account of its superior show when in flower; but in these situations the wood strawberry is more commonly planted, as it will produce fruit with less sun and air.

The management of a plantation of shrubs comes next be considered. It should be kept clean, or much o [...] [...]s beauty is lost. Let it be frequently hoed and raked to give it a fresh appearance, and prevent the grow [...] of moss, which spreads apace from the ground up the stems of plants, and thus injures them much. When moss can be seen, it has then got ahead, and will be got rid of with difficulty. The usual time for pruning and digging about shrubs is spring; but au­tumn is better, if the plants are well established in the ground, and especially if got old and full of roots. The pruning should not be late, (October best) as some sorts are apt to die down; these, however, might be left to spring, or only shortened in part: They should con­stantly be kept free from suckers and luxuriant wood. See pruning of shrubs. An autumn digging of an old shrubbery does much good, by the benefit which the soil receives from frost, and cutting some of the ends of the roots, by which new ones strike. This autumn dressing is particularly to be recommended as lessening the work of spring, the hurry of which season some­times occasions, shrubberies to be neglected too long, and to be but partially attended to.

The suchers or young plants, found in digging and dressing about shrubs are often left carelessly on the ground, but if likely to be wanted ought to have their roots buried as soon as possible: Why should they be suffered to wither and spoil, because they may recover?

For h [...]dges about a garden, (i. e. for the divisions of it) the laurel, yew, and holly are the principal ever­greens: the former as a lofty and open fence, the se­cond as close and moderate in height, and to be cut to any thing the last as [...]able by judicious pruning to [Page 115] an impregnable and beautiful fence. Deciduous divi­sions are best made with the small leaved elm, or the hop hornbeam, as they are tonsile, and of a peculiar neat foliage: If a lofty hedge is wanted, the beech makes a good one.

Old walls are somewhat unsightly, and if covered with plants are rendered agreeable. The evergreens to be recommended for hiding them, are the laurel, phil­lyrea, alaternus, pyracantha, yew, box, and laurustinus; but if the aspect of the wall be N. let them be planted late in spring. Ivy, box, thorn, and other climbing shrubs answer the purpose. If a mere summer covering be desired, and the wall is high, hornbeam, (rather the hop) and witch elm do very well when planted close; or lilacs, or even black currants will soon come to a cover: but whatever is planted for the purpose, let it be kept trimmed, and trained close as may be to the wall. The gable end of a building may be covered with a pear-tree, or a vine, for though the vine should not bear, it will answer its prime end, and looks well when in full leaf. See lists of shrubs, section 9.

SECTION X.
OF FOREST TREES.

PLANTING of forest trees, in some extent or other, may be an object with some young gar­deners, and those who have a taste this way, and ground to exercise it on, will amuse themselves in a [Page 116] very respectable manner by so doing. Let the work be set about with all speed and resolution; for every year lost is to be lamented, both in a public and private view.

What if forest trees produce nothing for the table, or no immediate profit, they afford in their planting and nursing, present entertainment of a very grateful and kind; they may ever after be viewed as objects of sat­isfaction, and friends, neighbours, and posterity will have reason to praise the work.

Plantations of forest trees do very much ornament a country, and there are some grounds peculiarly situated to become objects of delight in this respect, which could not be better employed. A place without trees appears disagreeably naked, and being destitute of one of the most useful materials for buildings, utensils, &c. is in truth to be lamented as unfurnished and forlorn. The demand for wood is perpetual, and the consump­tion is great; and therefore a provision for generations to come, by planting of forest trees, must afford the sincerest, (because most disinterested) gratifications of pleasure to the mind.

Though every one has not ground to form planta­tions of any considerable extent, yet if it were only a single tree here and there, i. e. to do what little might be in this way, it would shew a worthy spirit, and make a man an honourable benefactor to society. Corners of fields might have little clumps conveniently planted, without much expense of fencing. A few trees might be planted in, or rather just without hedge rows; but these should be chiefly oaks. It is a practice with some, to plant trees in hedges when first made; but they are commonly too small, and so the quick choaks them, and they never thrive.

The planting of forest trees is profitable as well as pleasing and respectable; and a young planter may live to reap much reward from his labour, or he may leave a valuable inheritance to his children. "The [Page 117] plantation and care of timber is like buying the rever­sion of an estate—for a little money expended, we be­come heirs to great sums.—In countries scarce of firing, and where poles and rails are wanted, under­wood will pay the proprietor triple more value than the best fields of corn, and the oaks among it remain a great estate to succeeding generations." Poor land, that does not answer for corn, would be profitable cul­tivated in wood; but such ground should be sown, ra­ther than planted. Wet ground may be advantageously planted with the amphibious tribe, as willow, sallow, withy, ozier, &c.

For those who may be disposed to plant forest trees, the following directions are offered:—The manual work proper to this business, may be gathered from what has been already said on planting fruit trees and shrubs; and though plantations of forest trees, need not be so nicely attended to as fruit trees, yet the better the work is performed, the fairer is the prospect in grow­ing good timber; a check by an error at first planting is a loss of time, and a damage done to trees which is sometimes never recovered. To give an instance:—the mould is often thrown on the roots of a forest tree in lumps, when if it were sifted, so as just to cover them with fine mould, the trouble would be amply re­paid by the quick striking of the roots, and future strength of the tree.

Ground designed for planting should be prepared as long as it can beforehand, by the use of the plough or spade; and if some sort of previous cultivation, either in corn or vegetables, were adopted, the soil would be better fitted to receive the trees. At any rate, the places where the trees are to be set, should be pre­viously dug somewhat deep, and cleared of rubbish, perennial weeds, twitch, &c. If wet let it be properly drained, for none but those of the aquotics kind can do well in a cold and very moist soil.

[Page 118] In open planting for timber, to make only the holes good where the trees are set, is sufficient, if the soil is not strong, (which generally speaking however it should be,) and in such plantations the plough being used for corn, or some crops to be carried off, the whole soil will be prepared for the roots to spread. A plantation of this sort may be constantly under the plough, till the trees shade too much, and then it may be sown down for grass, which laying warm, and coming early, would be found useful. The opportu­nity given to improve a soil by this intermediate culti­vation, would insure very fine timber.

But a plantation of trees being made (as suppose of oaks) at due distances, and the ground ploughed for a year or two, while they got a little a-head, then it might be sown profitably with nuts, keys and seeds for under­wood, observing to thin the plants the second year, and again the third, till two or three feet asunder in poor ground, and to three or four feet distance if rich. In fourteen or fifteen years, (or much sooner for some purposes,) the ash poles, &c. will be fine, and meet with a ready sale as useful stuff; and afterwards the under­wood will be fit to cut, in a strong state, every eleven or twelve years. In the management of underwood, some have thinned the plants while young, to three feet asunder, and cut them down at three years, to about six inches, to form stools, which in about ten years are cut, having produced several stems from each. Some persons have cut seedling trees down at this age to three inches for timber, leaving only one strong shoot to grow from each stool; and thus finer trees are frequently (or rather certainly) produced, then from seedlings not cut down.

The distances of the timber plants, may be from twenty-five to thirty-five feet, according to the soil, or opinion of the planter. If no view to underwood, the above open planting may be made close, by setting first the principals (which should be fine plants) and then [Page 119] filling up with others that are worse, to within about eight or nine feet of one another. They will at this distance come to fair timber, or may be thinned at pleasure; and even among these a small crop of under­wood might be had, which would shelter the timber plants, and help to draw them up strait and tall.

As to small plantations, of thickets, coppices, clumps, and sows of trees, they are to be set close according to their nature, and the particular view the planter has, who will take care to consider the usual size they at­tain, and their mode of growth. An advantage at home for shade or shelter, and a more distant object of sight, will make a difference: for some immedi­ate advantage, very close planting may take place, but good trees cannot be thus expected; yet if thinned in time, a strait tall stem is often thus procured, which afterwards is of great advantage.

For little clumps, or groupes of forest trees, (as elms) there may be planted three or four in a spot, within five or six feet of one another, and thus be easily fenced: having the air freely all round, and a good soil, such clumps produce fine timber.

Single trees of every sort, grow off apace, and are more beautiful than when in the neighbourhood of others, and particularly firs, pines, larches, limes, and chesnuts: the edible fruited chesnut is only good for timber; but the horse is very ornamental; flourishing however only on high dry ground. As to rows of trees, whether single or double, when planted for a screen, they may be set about seven or eight feet asun­der, upon an average, according to their nature, taking care to prune them occasionally, from too galling an interference.

Avenues are now seldom planted, but when they are, two good rows of elms, limes, chesnuts, &c. should be set at the width of the house, at full thirty feet distance in the rows; to thicken which, intermediate plants may be set; and also an inner row, to be removed [Page 120] when the principal trees are full grown. Avenues to prospects, should be fifty or sixty feet wide.

The best season for planting the deciduous kinds of forest trees, is the latter end of October, and evergreen sorts, the latter end of March; though the soil, wheth­er light and dry, or heavy and wet, should somewhat direct; evergreen trees being to be planted generally with safety, early in autumn, if the soil is warm; but in all cases trees should be planted in dry weather, that the mould may be loose to drop in, and lie close between the roots, which is a material thing.

Forest trees for planting are generally preferred ra­ther large, and being so, should not be taken up idly, but with as much of an uninjured spread of roots as possible: yet, free growing plants of about three or four feet high, promise in the end to make finer trees than those that are planted larger. Some say they are best at this size from the seed bed; and others, that having grown on the seed bed two years, and been once planted out, as having had their tap roots cut, they will do better, and generally speaking this is the case, as they have a more bushy and horizontal foot.

In the act of planting, let every thing be done as di­rected for fruit trees; i. e. the hole dug wide and deep, the ground well broken, or rather sifted, to lay about the roots, &c. A sound watering may take place, and the trees made fast by stakes, and litter laid about their roots to keep out frost and drought. It is of much consequence to take care that the roots (especially of evergreen trees) do not get withered before planted. Evergreens do best in a dry, but deciduous forest trees (generally) in a moist soil, if it is not wet. Oaks in particular, though at first they may appear to do poorly, grow well in strong and moist ground.

Fencing is the last thing to be considered. If trees are planted where cattle go, their stems must be pro­tected from barking and rubbing. The common way of small posts and little rails, is well known; but if [Page 121] large cattle are not fed where the trees are, good thorns stuck round them, and tied to them, is sufficient, and indeed this might do in almost all cases. There are various ways, and whatever mode is used, let it be at first well executed, and afterwards repaired in time, as often as there is need. Something concerning the raising of forest trees will be found at page 78.

Whoever plants forest trees, should take care to dress them by proper pruning, and suffering no suckers to remain about their roots. Their tops should be kept equal, and not permitted to spread too much in heavy branches, but trained in a light and spiral way; al­ways preserving the leading shoot, to encourage mount­ing, which is the perfection of a forest tree. The stems of all trees designed for timber, should be constantly, and timely attended to, as it is necessary to rub off buds, or to cut off the side shoots, except here and there a small one, which may serve to detain the sap to the swelling of the trunk; but branches being left on of any strength, keep the tree from mounting, and draw it crooked, and such branches, if cut off when large, occasion, knots, and sometimes a decay at the part.

Plantations, growing thick, should, be thinned in time, but not too much at once, especially in hilly situations; for as those trees which remain, come sud­denly to be exposed, (after having been brought up under the shelter of others) suffer much; getting crooked, stunted, and bushy, instead of having their desirable erect from, without which they are not adapted for superior uses, or are agreeable to the eye.

Ornamental trees, as the crab, black cherry, &c. may prove profitable, as well as agreeable, here and there one amongst forest trees, and should therefore not be omitted.

See list of forest trees, section 19.

SECTION XI.
OF RURAL AND EXTENSIVE GARDENING.

RURAL and extensive gardening is naturally con­nected with a taste for planting forest trees; and an idea of the picturesque should ever accompany the work of planting. Merely for the sake of objects to gratify the eye, planting is very often pursued, and wherever trees can be introduced to improve a view from the house, or accustomed walks, there a man, having it in his power, as proprietor of the land, ought to plant.

If to planting in clumps, coppices, groves, avenues, and woods, be added levelling of ground, improving of water courses, and pastures, making lawns, &c. the expense incurred would be honourable, and answered by pleasures of the sincerest kind! There are ways of spending money, that could be named, which are found mischievous in the extreme, and are therefore de­servedly branded with disgrace; but he who distributes wealth into the hands of industry, working to useful purposes, and that delectable end of making the country about him, as it were, a garden, does it in wisdom.

Yet here some caution may be necessary. "Do no­thing too much," is a wise maxim. Building, plant­ing, and gardening, upon a large scale, have been sometimes attended with serious consequences, as when a man's fortune has not been equal to the undertaking. It were desirable to be able to persuade to great things in this way; but prudence must guide.

[Page 123] Those who would do much in rural and extensive gardening, should not be forward to trust to their own taste altogether, though they may be ingenious. In this business there is no making experiments, but all should be executed, as much as possible, upon cer­tainty. There are professional man in this way, whose peculiar practice, and appropriate talents, will enable them to conceive improvements, and the best manner of executing them, which could scarcely be projected by any private person. There is a variety of works and decorations in extensive gardening which injudi­ciously introduced, might create a wasteful expense. This is an error that ought to be avoided, and most probably would be, by those who have been in the habit of studying nature, and the powers of art, as her submissive handmaid.

Artificial decorations are at this time much less made use of than formerly, and the grandeur of past times in the way of gardening would now be thought trifling and mean. Witness the sheard trees, statues, vases, water works, figured parterres, &c. of that style of gardening, imitated from the Dutch, which has been long deemed a mere burlesque upon Nature, the grand characteristics of which are ease and simplicity.

The pleasure we seek in laying out gardens, is now justly founded upon the principles of concealed art, which appears like Nature; but still, whether inge­nious contrivances and decorations, (altogether artifi­cial,) should be so entirely laid aside as they are, may deserve to be considered. Gardens, were formerly loaded with statues, and great improprieties were com­mitted in placing them, as Neptune in a grove, and Vulcan at a fountain, large figures in small gardens, and small in large, &c. but, perhaps, works of the statuary might still be introduced, and the meeting with Flora, Ceres, or Pomona, &c. well executed, and in proper places, could hardly give offence. A terrace as a boundary, is now seldom formed, but in [Page 124] some situations, such an eminence might in several re­spects be agreeable.

It would certainly be too much to attempt here par­ticular directions; for extensive gardening. The pe­culiar capabilities of any place must suggest what may be done, and much judgment is necessary to plan aright. It is presumed only to give a few hints to those private persons who would do something in this way, which they may consider as they please.

If trees are planted injudiciously, the error is a trifle; but if cut down so, the consequence is serious, and has often been sorely lamented; extirpation should there­fore be well thought of before it is executed; especi­ally trees about houses, for many dwellings have been thus too hastily exposed, and deprived of a comfortable shelter and shade. And why should a taste have pre­vailed for so sudden a transition, no sooner out of the house than to arrive in the open country, or why should an extensive garden be thrown as much as pos­sible into a single view, when meeting with new ob­jects in our walks is so agreeable?

Hilly spots, that are in view of the house should be planted with firs, as pleasant noble looking trees, and very hardy. Beech does well on high ground, espe­cially, if chalky. In low ground, not to mention. al­ders and that tribe, the birch, and even the oak, should not be forgot, where the wet does not long stand.

About the houses some shady walks ought always to be provided, by thick planting, if not of trees, yet of flowering shrubs, and evergreens, of which the laurel will be found the most useful. Here should be also a good portion of grass plat, or lawn, which so delights the eye when neatly kept, also borders of shewy flow­ers, which, if backed by any kind of fence, it should be hid with evergreens, or at least with deciduous shrubs, that the scene may be as much as possible vi­vacious. If there is good room, single trees of the fir kind, at due distances, are admirable ornaments about [Page 125] a house, and clumps of shrubs all of the same kind have a good effect.

Those who have much space of ground to decorate, do well to plant trees and shrubs of every kind, as en­larging the sources of amusement, and affording op­portunities for observation; but if the allotment of ground for this purpose is contracted, then, of course, those only should be planted, which by their neat fo­liage, natural symmetry, and gay flowers, may be truly esteemed ornamented. They should be such as strike the eye of persons in general, though they have nothing of singularity to engage the attention of the curious in plants. It too often happens, that good old sorts of trees, shrubs, and flowers, are excluded for new ones, but if the latter are not more elegant, and generally pleasing, the practice is surely not a wise one: in ornamental gardening, on a small scale, great care should be taken, in the choice of what is really pretty, that nothing dull or rambling be introduced.

In the most sheltered place near the house, there should be an enclosure of a compact nature, as sup­pose of yew, or hornbeam (rather the former) open only to the South, as a necessary apartment to place things in from the greenhouse, or occasionally the hot­house, tender annuals, or any hardy curious potted plants, for a summer residence. For this purpose, or for hedges to separate, or divide any spot of ground, the hop hornbeam is best, as the common sort holds its dead leaves all the winter, and makes a litter at spring. This business, however, may be easily effected by planting elder cuttings at a foot asunder, which will grow up quickly, being kept moist.

The walks should always be wide, some (in gene­ral) serpentine, and contrived as much as possible up­on a level, as walking up and down hills can hardly be called pleasure. That they may be extensive, they should skirt the grounds and seldom go across them. In small pleasure grounds the edges of the walks should [Page 126] be regularly planted with flowers, and long ones oc­casionally so, or with the most dwarf shrubs; and neat sheltered compartments of flowers, (every now and then to be met with) have a pretty effect. If the walks are extended to distant plantations of forest trees, every opportunity should be taken, to introduce some­thing of the herbaceous flowery kind, which will prove the more pleasing, as found in unexpected situations: The outer walk of pleasure grounds and plantations, should every now and then break into open views of the country, and to parts of the internal space, made pleasing, if not striking, by some ornaments of art and nature.

Water should only be introduced in full sight, where it will run itself clear, or may be easily kept so, ought to be kept in full sight; and some fall of it should be contrived, (if possible,) for the sake of giving it mo­tion and sound, because a lively scene of this element is always much more pleasant than a dead one. Every spring of water should be made the most of, and though fountains jets d'eau; &c. are out of fashion, something of this kind is agreeable enough. Near some piece of water, as a cool retreat, it is desirable that there should be something of the summer-house kind, and why not the simple rustic arbour, embowered with the wood­blue, the sweetbriar, the jasmine, and the rose?

Before the design of a (rural and extensive) garden be put in execution, it ought to be considered, what it will be in twenty or thirty years time; for it often happens, that a design that looks handsome when it is first planted, and in good proportion, becomes so small and ridiculous in process of time, that there is a ne­cessary either to alter it, or destroy it entirely, and so plant it now." This observation of Mr. Millar's, justifies the advice given of employing the most skilful in planning and directing pleasure grounds. To pro­portion the breadth of walks, the size of carpets, cast­ing and levelling of grounds, parterres, &c. The dis­posal [Page 127] of fountains, statues, vases, dials, and other dec­orations of magnificence to most advantage, requires a particular address, says Mr. Evelyn, or to speak more emphatically, a prophetic eye; and though the taste is not now what it was in Mr. Evelyn's time, yet, perhaps, the only difference is, that more skill is requisite.

What has been said of the difficulty of rural and ex­tensive gardening, is meant only as advice to proceed with cautious steps. The work is truly of the most worthy nature, and a taste for it deserves to be cher­ished. Mr. Shenstone, in an ode on rural elegance, de­fends his favourite employment thus:

Mr. Shenstone succeeded admirably in laying out his grounds, and producing a delightful scene about the Leasowes. Several gentlemen have done great things in picturesque gardening, without the assistance of pro­fessional artists; but they have had a peculiar talent this way, improved by study and observation. Thus Mr. Walpole makes an easy affair of it, and says, "the possessor, it he has any taste, is the best designer of his own grounds." And indeed, as they have come so frequently under his own eye and contempla­tion, he must, in a great measure, be competent to the work; and at least, ought not to give up his judg­ment too implicitly to general undertakers of rural gardening.

Ornamental gardening depends much on the form of the ground, and therefore to shape that is the first ob­ject. [Page 129] Some situations may not need it, and, perhaps, a little alteration may produce a happy effect in others; therefore great alterations should not be attempted without manifest advantages, as either levelling, or raising ground, is a heavier business than is commonly supposed.

Too much plain is to be guarded against, and when it abounds, the eye should be relieved, by clumps or some other agreeable object. Hollows are not easily filled, and ominences, in general, are advantageous in the formation of picturesque scenes, in which the gene­ral principle of ornamental gardening consists. This idea has been pressed so far, that it is contended, a gar [...]n [...]r should be a painter, or at least a studier of paintings. But without an immediate view to pic­tures, no doubt, grounds may be laid out in a way sufficiently picturesque. That view may be very agreeable in Nature, which would not be so in a pic­ture, and vice versa.

Picturesque gardening is effected by a number of means, which a true rural genius, and the study of examples, only can produce. These examples may be pictures, but the better instructions will be scenes in Nature; and the proper grouping of trees, according to their mode of growth, and their shades of green, and appearance in autumn will effect a great deal.

To plant picturesquely a knowledge of the character­istic differences of trees and shrubs, is, evidently, a principal qualification. Some trees spread their branches wide, others grow spiral, and some conical; some have a close foliage, others an open one, and some form regular, others irregular heads, the branches and leaves of which may grow erect, level, or pendent.

The mode of growth in trees, as quick or slow, the time of lea [...]ing, and shedding leaf, with the colour of the bark, are all circumstances of consideration in or­der to produce striking contracts, and happy assem­blages in the way of ornamental gardening.

On the works of art in gardening, the following passage is pertinent. "Art was carried to excess, when ground, wood and water, were reduced to math­ematical figure, and similarity and order were pre­ferred to freedom and variety. These mischiefs, how­ever, were occasioned, not by the use, but the per­version [Page 131] of art; it excluded, instead of improving upon nature, and thereby destroyed the very end it was called in to promote. Architecture requires symmetry, the objects of nature freedom; and the properties of the one, cannot, with justice, be transferred to the other. But if, by the term art, no more is meant than merely design, the dispute is at an end; choice, arrangement, composition, improvement, and preservation, are so many symptoms of art, which may occasionally ap­pear in several parts of a garden, but ought to be dis­played without reserve near the house: nothing there should seem neglected; it is a scene of the most culti­vated nature: it ought to be enriched, it ought to be adorned; and design may be avowed in the plan, and expense in the execution. Even regularity is not ex­cluded: a capital structure may extend its influence beyond its walls: but this power should be exercised only over its immediate appendages. Works of sculp­ture are not, like buildings, objects familiar in scenes of cultivated nature; but vases, statues, and termini, are usual appendages to a considerable edifice: as such, they may attend the mansion, and trespass a lit­tle upon the garden, provided they are not carried so far into it as to lose their connection with the structure."

SECTION XII.
OF PRUNING.

SECTION XIII.
OF HOT BEDS.

THE dung of animals, but chiefly of horses, is put together for fermentation, in order to form bodies of heat for two purposes. 1. To raise vegetables, flowers, &c. not otherwise to be produced, or at least, not in perfection. 2. To raise such things, as though they come in perfection in open culture, yet may be forwarded by artificial warmth.

According to the quantity and quality of the mate­rials put together for hot beds, the heat will be pro­portioned as to strength and duration; and by a judi­cious use in making, and the management afterwards, many advantages may be obtained from them. The [Page 175] great point is, to suit the degree of heat to the nature of the different plants to be cultivated, that they may have neither more nor less than in necessary to promote vegetation.

Two errors are common in the use of hot beds, sow­ing or placing in the same bed things of a very different nature, as to the climate they grow best in, and forcing with too much heat even the tenderest. Though it may not answer our views of haste, the heat of a bed had better be slack than otherwise. A strong hot bed, that ought (perhaps) to be made a fortnight before it is used, is sometimes furnished by impatience in a few days, and various ill consequence follow, which nat­urally frustrate success.

The place where hot beds are worked, should be open to the full sun, catching it as early as possible in the morning, and as long as can be in the evening; and if not naturally sheltered, it should be screened from the north and north-east winds by a boarded fence, or rather one of reeds, as from a solid fence the wind reverberates; but straw, or flake hurdles set endwise may do. A screen of some sort, (and a close clipt hedge is as good as any) not only protects the enclo­sure from the harsher winds, and confines the warm air, but keeps a rather unsightly work from view, and straws from blowing about, the litter of which is very disagreeable. In large gardens, however, they have detached grounds for the work of hot beds, where such litter is of no consequence.

Working of the dung is necessary previous to the making a hot bed; i. e. it should be thrown together on an heap, in a conical form; and when it has taken a thorough heat, and has been smoking or sweating for two or three days, it should be turned over, mov­ing the outside in, or mixing the colder parts with the hot. When it has taken heat again for two or three days, give it a second turn as before, and having lain the same time, it will be in proper order for making a [Page 176] good lasting bed with a steady heat. If in any haste, it may be made into a bed after the first heating; but it will be better for shifting again. When dung is ready before wanted, keep turning it over, left it be too much spent. It will be proper to begin to work fresh dung a week or ten days before it is to be used; but if the dung is not fresh, it is only necessary to throw it together for once heating.

Dunghills from which it is designed to collect ma­terials for a hot bed, should be taken notice of in time, that they are not left to work themselves weak by long smoking, without opening and turning over. Beds may be made of dung from the stable from a week to a month old.

If heavy rain, cutting wind, or driving snow should keep the heaps from heating, and the dung is wanted, lay some straw round it, and it will protect and fetch up the heat. If at first putting it together there is not a general moisture in the dung, it must be given it, by casting water evenly over it as it is laid. This may be done with a hand bowl from a pail, but it would be better to use a large watering pot. No water must be used to dung when it is got dark; this is however the colour that it should begin to have when put together in a bed, which the directions given for working it will bring it to.

The size of a hot bed, as to length and breadth, is (of course) to be according to the frame; and the height of it according to the season, and the degree of heat requisite to the nature of the plant to be culti­vated. In a dry soil, a bed may be sunk in the ground, from six inches to a foot, to make it more convenient to get at and manage. But beds made forward in the season, should rather be on the surface, for the sake of being able to add the stronger linings, &c.

The bed should not be of greater dimensions than necessary to hold the frame up firmly; i. e. three or four inches wider every way, though some approve of [Page 177] making it six, which may be proper if the frame is small, as otherwise the body of dung might not hold heat enough.

It is the practice of some gardeners, when they mould the bed, to take the frame off, and lay it two or three inches thick all over, and then put the frame on again. This is done to guard against steaming, and is proper when the frames are shallow; in this case the bed must be six inches wider every way than the frame, in order to hold up the mould for the frame to rest upon. As a guide to laying the dung, stakes of about four feet long should be drove into the ground at the four corners.

If there is a likelihood of not being a sufficient quan­tity of good horse dung, that of cows, oxen, or pigs, if it is strawy, and not too wet, may be mixed with it, in the proportion of one-fourth, or upon a pinch more; especially in an advanced part of the season, or to cultivate things that are only forcing, and do not naturally require heat. In the case of a deficient quan­tity of proper materials also, some dry old worn out horse dung may be laid at bottom, and a little of it on the top. O [...]fal hay may be mixed as the bed is made; or a little or mown grass or weeds, especially for late made beds; but clear straw, well wetted, may be put at the bottom a foot thick, and reckoned about equal to five or six inches of dung. Cucumbers and melons have been raised upon straw beds, mixed with sea coal ashes: and thus the rank steam of dung avoid­ed, which sometimes injures plants, if it does not give the fruit a less agreeable taste than they otherwise would have. Sea coal ashes among dung, has been recommended to continue the heat of the bed, and to moderate it, in the proportion of one-fifth or sixth part; tanner's bark has been used in the same way: and these have been sometimes mixed generally, and at others in layers three or four to a bed.

[Page 178] The making of a hot bed is performed thus: lay some of the most strawy dung at bottom, and keep that which appears least worked toward the middle. Let all be well broke, and laid evenly without lumps; keeping the ends and sides upright, (or rather hanging over) not suffering them to draw in, left the bed be made too little for the frame, or should thus catch wet. Having laid it about half a yard high, some gardeners trample it with the feet set close, and again when raised a foot higher, and lastly when near finished; but beating it down well with the back of the fork is by many gardeners thought sufficient, ex­cept indeed the dung be fresh and strawy, and then trampling ought to be used. The cleaner dung is, it must not only be more trampled, but more wetted, and the greater quantity of it used. To make beds of un­soiled straw, it is recommended to lay it in a pond for two or three days, and then to throw it in a heap to drain and heat.

If any dung is to be used directly from the stable, let it be equally mixed with the rest; but if there is a coldness in the other dung, it will bring the heat for­warder, by laying a good part of the fresh in the middle, which will soon kindle, and spread warmth. The litter that is made use of for this purpose should be foul; and if not, it may be made so, by mixing cow or hog dung with it, or rather by collecting the draining from a farmer's much hill, and sprinkling with it; this would help greatly to fermentation.

The best sort of dung is that of bean straw, next wheat, rye, oats, and barley. When the season is pretty much advanced, hot beds may be made of grass mowings, (as from an orchard) and weeds, which is a common practice in the cider countries. These heats, however, (though violent) last not long; yet may they be lined with the same materials if done in time, otherwise if a green hot house bed g [...]s greatly cool it will not be recovered. A grass bed may be [Page 179] used as soon as warm, but let it not be overweighted, by putting on heavy frames, or more mould than nec­essary. It should rather be worked with hand glasses, or oiled paper covers. If a large quantity of grass be put together wet, it will occasion such a burning heat, as has been known to melt tin; therefore, in these beds some caution must be used.

Hot beds are to be made of the refuse hark of a tan­ner's yard, and also of oak leaves; but these must have walled pits for them, of a large size, and are seldom used but in hot-houses. A bark-bed properly made, and managed by forking up at two or three months end, &c. will hold a fair, moderate, and steady heat, four, five, or six months.

The bark is to be got fresh, after it has been thrown out of the vats a few days, and if not moderately dry, kept a few days longer to drain, and if the weather is fair, it may be opened to the sun to dry; for it will not ferment if it is put together wet. When it is made into a bed it must be only beat together with the fork, and not trampled. In a fortnight it will have come to a fine heat, and may be immediately used.

The pit should be eleven or twelve feet long, five and a half or six feet wide, and a foot, or a little more, higher than the bark in front, and two feet higher be­hind, to receive the mould on a body of bark, three feet deep: But if for the cultivation of any thing in pots, as there will need no mould, the pits need not be so deep, the pots being plunged in the bark: or the pit may be made level all round, of a depth to hold the bark and mould, on which frames of wood may be set. Let the pit be sunk one-third, or one-half in the ground, as the soil about it is either cold or warm. In the section on Flowers, is mentioned a method of making hot beds of bran.

To increase the heat of a dung bed when it declines, a warm lining of straw, or hay, put round it, a foot thick, and laid high up the sides of the frame, will [Page 180] recover it for a few days; but a lining of hot dung, one foot and a half wide at bottom, and rather nar­rower at top, should be applied first to the back, and in about a week after to the front, before the heat is greatly gone off; and if very bad weather comes, there should be a lining of straw all round this. In cases of great declension of heat, the ends should have hot dung applied to them, or, at least, a good thickness of lit­ter, or straw. Lay all linings a few inches higher than the bed, to allow for sinking; or, not being laid quite so high at first, add more afterwards, when a little settled. Early made beds will require two or three re­peated linings. Should dung of a brisk heat for a new lining be wanting, the old lining may be worked up with what there is, and if shook up with quite fresh (but foul) dung from the stable it may do very well.

To decrease the heat of a bed, several holes may be made in it, by thrusting an iron bar, or a thick, smooth, sharp pointed stake up to the middle, which holes are to be close stopt again, with dung or hay, when the heat is sufficiently abated.

The uses to which hot beds may be applied are va­rious, but chiefly for the cultivation of cucumbers and melons, for which see the next section. At the spring of the year, hot beds are commonly made use of for forcing crops of several vegetables, as radishes, carrots, cauliflowers, lettuces, potatoes, turnips, peas, kidney beans, purslain, tarragon, small sallading, &c. Fruits of several sorts, as cherries, strawberries, raspberries, &c. are sometimes brought forward by dung heat; as also various shrubs and flowers, by means of forcing frames. Tender annuals, as balsams, and other flow­ers, that necessarily require heat to bring them up; and the less tender, and some even of the harder sorts, are also cultivated on hot beds, or other assistance from dung, to produce an earlier blow than could other­wise be had. Directions for which, will be given in their proper places.

[Page 181] As to the forcing of peas, asparagus, and the raising of mushrooms, though these things are not often prac­tised, and may hardly be expected in such an initia­tory book as this, some instructions shall be given (if room) at the close of the book.

SECTION XIV.
OF RAISING CUCUMBERS AND MELONS.

SECTION XV.
OF ESCULENTS.

THE USEFULENESS of esculent plants, as serving for the food, health, and pleasure of man, is pretty generally acknowledged; and that they may not fail to answer these ends in the best way, it may be ob­served here, that they deserve every attention; and that, not only in their cultivation, but in their prep­aration for the table. Let there be no slight put upon the bounty of PROVIDENCE in ordaining them to our use, by an unnecessary preference to other foods. "There was a time, when bread and herbs (with a little fruit) were the only dainties wherewith the tables of the greatest voluptuaries were spread."

"Vegetables and fruits (observes Quintinye) were our innocent, primitive, and natural food; but men's depraved appetites have substituted the shambles; yet after all, the inventions of the most luxurious and vo­luptuous epicure, the most Coesarian tables would want of their magnificence, noble gust, and grateful relish, without fruit and the productions of the garden, which gives the true condiment, and most agreeable closure to all the rest."

Our Ray, in his History of Plants, says, "Their use is all our life long, of that universal importance and concern, that we can neither live nor subsist in any plenty, with decency or convenience, or be said to live at all without them; whatsoever contributes to delight or refresh us, are supplied and brought forth out of this plentiful and delightful store of the garden.

[Page 208] Let it be a rule to gather vegetables of all kinds (designed for the table) in the morning, before much sun has shined on them, and lay them by in a cool place.

ALEXANDER is a culinary plant, formerly much used, but has given away to celery, like which it is blanched, about a foot high, for use in soups and sallads. The seeds are best sown in drills two feet asunder, and thinned to six or eight inches distance, though they may be sown at broad cast and transplanted. Spring sown plants come in for autumn, and autumn ones for spring.

ARTICHOKE, there are two kinds of, the globe and the conical; (which is the hardest) but the former being generally preferred, both for size and flavour, the latter is seldom seen. Artichokes are propagated from rooted slips, or offsets in April taken from the mother plant, by drawing the mould aside. As they require a rich soil, and are stationary plants, dig a good quantity of dung in below the roots for them to strike into.

The head of the artichoke is valuable according to its size and substance, and therefore to a good soil, add good room, for though they may be planted nearer, yet they would do much better in rows six feet asunder, and three feet apart in the rows. This distance is great, but between these rows may be propagated sev­eral sorts of spring or early summer crops. They should be regularly watered in dry weather, and suffered to bear only one principal head. Fresh plantations should be made every third or fourth year, to have them in perfection. Every year that they stand after planting they should be dug round, and some manure applied. Cut the heads when the leaves begin to expand, and before the centre opens for flowering; and let them [Page 209] have about a foot of stalk, breaking the remaining part of the stem down to the bottom, that it may not rob the root. At the spring dressing, all the suckers are to be taken off, leaving three only of the strongest shoots to fruit.

Let the plants be protected from hard frosts; before the prospect of which, cut down the stalks and outside leaves to the inner one, dig between, and earth the plants to near the tops; and if severe weather follows, they should be covered thick with straw, which must be removed when the frost goes. The earthing up need not be levelled down till March, or may be let alone till the time of their dressing, which is best done at the beginning of April.

To have a long succession of artichokes, some slips should be planted at two different times every spring, as they bear the same year, only come in later, and with smaller heads than the old plants. When planted quite late, they sometimes do not produce in the pres­ent season, but then they are forwarder the next sum­mer than old stools are; but remember, a good soil and open situation are absolutely necessary for the arti­choke. Though dung must be used in an indifferent soil, the finest artichokes (as indeed of all other vegeta­bles) are produced from a fresh and natural good soil. 'Tis of service to lay grass mowings, or some litter, about the roots to keep them cool; for though arti­chokes should not be planted in a moist soil, on account of frost, yet they thrive best in one. The market gardeners seldom throw away any suckers, but put them in the ground somewhere, and having borne heads, then pull them up if overstocked. Artichokes that come late, may be cut with their full stalks, and being laid up to the head in moist sand, in a cellar, will keep a month, so that they may sometimes be had at Christmas.

ASTARAGUS, there is but one sort of, as an escu­lent, but some difference occurs, as to size, colour, and [Page 210] flavour, arising from cultivation. In order to obtain large heads, and to have the beds continue to produce the longer, much dung is used; but the less of it, the sweeter will this vegetable be, so that in a soil naturally prolific, no dung need be used by the curious.

Asparagus beds are commonly made from plants, but the best way is from seed. The time for both is March, rather early in the month than late, though the begin­ning of April may do. The plants should be only a year old, and set in rows a foot distance, and the roots the same, or a little less from one another in the rows.

Making the beds four feet and a half wide, there will be four rows of plants, and nine inches left be­tween the outside rows and the alleys, which should be two feet wide. The beds ought to be trenched full eighteen inches deep, and enriched with dung that is well consumed, burying it below with roots; they will soon strike into the dung, which had best not lay im­mediately about them. If some mould of rotted vege­tables, wood pile earth, and a little pond mud, were mixed with the top soil, it would greatly help the plants; or if none other than this manure were used all through the work, it were better. As asparagus beds are designed to last many years, suppose twelve or fifteen, no pains should be spared to do the work well; and if the ground were prepared sometime be­forehand, or in winter, it would be an advantage, the top soil laying trenched for the benefit of frost. The alleys, as well as the beds, should be made good, for the roots of the outer rows will strike into them. A rich sandy loam is the best soil for asparagus, and if the earth is too heavy, or too light, rectify it. See im­provement of soils, miscellaneous section.

To plant asparagus set the line nine inches from the edge of the bed, and cut the trench upright, close to it, so deep that the crowns of the roots lie full two inches below the surface. If the mould of the bed lies light, and is likely to settle much, the crowns of the [Page 211] plants may come to the top, and two inches of mould put on afterwards; this is, indeed, the best method of planting; but if the ground is not expected to settle, two inches of the top mould must (in this method) be first drawn aside to cover with. The roots must be neatly spread against the trench, and cut as little as possible; i. e. only the damaged parts off. This should be with a sharp knife, and it would be better if done the day before they are used, that the ends may dry and heal. It is of consequence to have the plants dug up carefully, with a three pronged fork, that the roots may not be injured; for bruises, and sometimes even cuts, will occasion that part of the root to rot.

To sow asparagus beds, make little holes an inch deep, at the distance directed for plants, and having laid three seeds in each, near an inch asunder, cover them three-fourths of an inch, which will leave little hollows, to shew their places, and give occasional watering in a dry time, to fetch up the seeds. If the beds were covered with a little haulm, or straw, till the plants appeared, it would help them to germinate, as in a sunny season they are apt to lie long, especially if the work be not done till April. When the plants are above ground fill up the holes. Refresh the plants occasionally with water through the summer, and when they are two inches high, thin the holes to one plant in each, and cover the beds with an inch of mould, and they will then be two inches deep, as was directed for plants. The drawn plants may be pricked out at four or five inches distance, to make good any defi­ciencies next spring, or otherwise. In October, when the haulm is decayed, cover the bed with about half an inch of rotten dung, to keep out frost; and, in se­vere weather, put some long litter over all. In spring, take the litter off, and gently stir (with a proper fork) the rotten dung in: do so again the next year. Water­ing asparagus beds with the draining of a dunghill (a rich manure too often lost) in autumn, or spring, will [Page 212] wash down to the roots, and greatly benefit the lower soil to the increase of the produce: It is worth while to make a rank water for this purpose, for weak or old beds.

Asparagus is cut from planted beds in three years, and from sown ones in four; but this loss of a year, will be amply repaid by the superior size and abundance of the heads. If the buds come very fine, a little may be cut the year before. A thin crop of onions or lettuces to prick out, is commonly had on planted beds the first, and on seed beds the two first years, taking care that none grow just about the plants. The best method of doing this business, is by an intermediate drill be­tween each row, and again across them.

The management of asparagus beds is, to cut down the haulm, within an inch of the ground, when it turns yellow in autumn, clearing of weeds, stirring the ground, and covering the whole over with about an inch of rotten dung before every winter, which is to be forked in at spring, not to hurt the plants, and covered with some parings of the mould from the alleys, which should afterwards be dug over, if no crop is in them to prevent it. It may seem, that an addition every year to the beds might sink the crowns of the plants too low; but it is their nature to rise as they grow. Besides the rotten dung, as above, there may be laid some long litter over the beds, before severe weather sets in; but the covering of asparagus beds is not simply to keep out frost, (which will not hurt them without much wet) but to keep them warm, that the buds may be forward at spring. A stump ought to be kept at each corner of the beds, to shew their bounds, and as marks to pare the alleys up by, which should lay three or four inches lower.

The cutting of asparagus should be carefully per­formed, not to injure adjoining buds. Move the mould a little aside to see, and then close by the head, and with a little slope, cut it off about three inches below [Page 213] the ground. The knife should have a long narrow blade, and a proper one is indented with teeth as a saw. It may be cut when from two to four inches high, and let it be done as soon as ready. If it is lain by in a cool place, as in a dairy or cellar, it will keep very well three days.

Six rods of well planted ground will produce, in the full season, about a hundred a day; and this, as a rule, will help to determine how much room to allot for this vegetable.

BEANS we have several sorts of, differing in size, colour, flower, flavour, hardiness, and time of coming in. Of the forward beans, the mazagan is generally preferred, as the earliest, hardiest, most productive, and pleasant. The Portugal ranks next to it. Of the later sorts, the Windsor stands first, as to general esti­mation, for eating; but it is in most soils rather an idle bearer. The long-pod and Sandwich, however, are preferred by some, chiefly as more fruitful. Trials must determine taste, but it may be observed, that the white blossom bean is a very good one, if eat young.

Close under a warm wall ( [...]o which they should be kept by packthread) some mazagans may be put in the ground early in October; but at the latter end, and the beginning of November, is best, when they commonly succeed at some distance from the wall, earthing them up regularly as they proceed in growth.

Put the small beans in three inches deep, and four asunder, in single rows, or six inches asunder every way, in double rows; and let the rows, in the first case, be two and a half, and in the latter, three feet asunder.

There is a dwarf bean (by some called the fan cluster) that grows but a few inches high, which is very con­venient to put in, close under a south wall, in October, and they will thus be but a few days (if any) later than the mazagan, sown in November.

[Page 214] 'Tis a good way to sow patches of beans under a warm corner to stand the winter, placing them about an inch from one another, and transplanting them, at the above distances, the first mild weather in February or March to any sheltered part of the garden, and if under a south wall, it will forward them. Beans, sown in patches, may be easily covered in severe wea­ther, by a frame, &c. Make trenches to lay them in when transplanted; pull off the bean adhering to the roots, shorten them a little, and put them in rather highly covered over the shanks. If planted aslant, they will soon get erect; but this is only permitted in case of a shallow soil and long roots.

In severe weather, a light covering of peas haulm, or any straw, may be lain over winter beans to protect them, but must be taken off as soon as the weather alters; for too much covering of any thing is as likely to destroy (eventually) as being wholly exposed.

Though the mazagan is mostly the bean put in to stand the winter, some gardeners sow other sorts for the purpose, (even Windsors) which in general may succeed; but they certainly will not come in so early be near a fortnight, and must have a dry, sheltered situation. The larger beans must be sown a little deeper, and two or three inches farther asunder than the mazagan, allowing a foot more between the roots, especially if double ones.

If early crops of beans fail, through severity of the winter, be sure to take the first opportunity of open weather in the new year, to sow some of the early sorts; and if they be covered over with some straw, they will come up the sooner; but remove the cover­ing as soon as the beans appear, if not a frost at the time.

Succession crops of beans are to be sown for every three weeks, or a month, from November to July; preferring the larger sorts in February, and so on to [Page 215] June, when the smaller (or early) kinds will be the properest.

BEET, there are four sorts of, red, green, yellow, and white, which are used several ways, as pot and sallad herbs. The leaves of the latter are sometimes blanched, when full grown, for the sake of their thick ribs, being peeled for stewing, and eat as asparagus. Sow beets in February or March, thinly, either in drills or broad cast, and hoe them to a foot asunder: They run to seed the second year. A little also may be sown, early in autumn, for late spring use; but they will be small. The red sort is cultivated for its root, and is preserved in winter, in dry sand, as carrots are; and of this there is a turnip shaped sort, that suits best in heavy shallow soils, and a long rooted sort proper for light and deep ones: Beets, but principally the red, require a rich soil.

BOORCOLE, or cale, is a hardy green, of which we have two principal sorts, green and brown, and a little variety is in the leaf, as plain, curled, variegated: The latter is a pretty vegetable when growing, but not so hardy, or pleasant, at table as the other sorts.

Some sow two crops of this green at the end of March and of April, but one sowing may suffice; and the first day of April, or at least in the first week, is the best time. Sow in an open situation, and in cool ground, and thin the plants in time, that they may be robust, and able to support themselves.

This green should be planted out in rows a yard asunder, and two feet apart in the rows, having been previously pricked out from the seed bed, at six inches, for five or six weeks, to obtain strength for final planting in June or July.

Let boorcole, and all summer planted things, have a good watering at the time, and again in a few days, if the weather proves dry and before winter let them be well earthed up to support the plants from the wind and snow, that are apt to break them down, or at [Page 216] least, to set them awry; which, when it happens, should be attended to, to fix them upright again; ob­serve this of all other winter greens.

The heads of Boorcole may be cut in winter, and the sprouts come full in spring: The heads are tender and sweeter for being frost bitten. The sprouts should only be topped when gathered, and they will shoot out again below.

BROCCOLI is of two distinct kinds, the purple, and the white; for the green, &c. are only varieties from them; of each, there are large and dwarf sorts, the latter of which is mostly cultivated. All the sorts, except the white, generally produce side shoots, as well as a head. The white is called cauliflower broccoli, because it resembles a cauliflower much, but is not so white. This is not so hardy as the purple, nor is it thought so good; indeed the green may be esteemed the best. Of the purple there is an early and a late sort; the former is sowed to come in at autumn, and the latter in spring.

The first day of April is a good general time to sow for the autumn crop, (though some do it sooner) and the last day of April for the spring crop. But it will be very proper to sow again a fortnight after each; and at the end of May, for late spring use; which though they produce small heads, will be very acceptable. Sow in open ground, and see that they young plants are thinned, when quite small, that they may not be drawn up weak; and prick them out when they have got six leaves, to six inches distance, where having grown to a proper robust size, (as about July) let them be planted out at two feet, or a little more asunder. The autumn sort should be planted towards a warm wall, lest it come not in at the time. Broccoli requires a rich and dry soil; yet watering, in a dry time, is necessary to help their heads to swell, and forward them, Stir the ground about the plants occasionally, and keep them well earthed up. The best broccoli [Page 217] seed comes immediately from Italy, whence we first had it.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS are winter greens, growing much like boorcole, and by some preferred as more delicate eating; but they are not so hardy or produc­tive. Their culture is the same as boorcole, only they may be planted out at rather less distance.

CABBAGE, there is a considerable variety of, as to flavour, size, time of coming in, and hardiness. Some are for the use of the table, and others for cattle, though the latter are very sweet, before they get solid. The early dwarf, early Yorksbire, and early Russian, are the chief sorts for spring use, and the early and late sugar-loaf for summer.

In April, the forwardest cabbages may be tied up, (as lettuces are) to assist them to head and whiten; a practice seldom seen, but which will certainly be helpful: Use wetted bass.

Sow for early cabbages about Mid-August; soon after up thin them, and in a month, draw the strongest, and prick them out four or five inches apart, where having grown about the same time, they will be fit to plant for spring use; or they may be put out any time after, even in winter; for should frost come directly, it will hardly affect them injuriously. Set them, if in a middling soil, two feet asunder, allowing six inches more for a rich one: There should, however, always be some dung dug into cabbage ground. If they are planted at half the above distances in the rows, taking care to draw every other plant in time for early greens, (or coleworts) it is a very good method, as the ground is better occupied, and the plants protect one another.

The late cabbages, or those of summer and autumn, should be sown early and late in the spring. For early summer uses, sow after Mid-February on a little heat, or under hand-glasses, on a warm border; and the later crops in March, to the end of it, and for the latest at the end of April.

[Page 218] Sow red cabbage seed, either about the middle of August, or beginning of March: but as there is much more bad seed than good of this vegetable, be as care­ful of the sort as possible.

CARROT, there is a little variety of, in colour, size, and time of coming in, though not much in taste. We have orange, red, yellow, and white, (each of which have their admirers) but the former is generally pre­ferred, and the last is rarely cultivated. The sort sown for the first crop, whether in cold ground, or on a hot bed, is the early born carrot. Both this and the late horn carrot grow short and thick, and are therefore proper for heavy, or shallow soils, as the other sorts are for light and deep ones.

Sow carrots always in good times, as the seed lies long in the ground, and they are, by many persons, covered early. A few should be sown in a favourable situation, the first tolerable weather in February, dig­ging the ground well and deep for the purpose; for if it is lumpy, the carrots will grow forked, as they will also if the ground is fresh dunged.

Carrot seed should be mixed with dry sand, or earth, rubbing them well together, in order the better to spread it equally in sowing. Use about twice as much sand as seed, and if earth, it were better to be of a different colour from that on which the seed is distri­buted, that it may be seen.

If early in the month, the new sown beds may be covered with a little haulm, or straw, which will help the seed to germinate, and preserve them from being thrown out of the ground by frost; and this covering should be continued on nights, and taken off by day, when the plants are up; which practice being con­tinued for some time, will greatly forward, as well as preserve, the crop. Some people sow in January, if the weather is mild, but for this, (and other circum­stances in gardening) situation must in a measure, gov­ern, and discretion determine.

[Page 219] If a hot bed be made for carrots, let it be about two feet and an half thick, and covered with eight inches of sifted mould, as soon as the violent heat is gone off. Sow the seed directly, a full quarter of an inch deep, and if covered with lights, give air sufficient to keep the earth only just warm. A ho [...]ped bed to be covered with mats, may do for this purpose, but in this case, two feet of dung may answer better than more; for if the seed is hurried up, they will be too tender for the protection of such a covering, and the plants will run to top, and not bottom.

Thin the plants soon to an inch asunder, and in a little time again to three inches, in order to grow to a small size for use; and if not so wanted, at any rate draw some equally, that those which remain may swell properly: Carrots must have a great share of air, if covered with glass.

The principal crop of carrots should be sown early in the month of March, or before the end of it, and be soon hoed, or thinned by hand, to a small distance, and a while after to a greater; so that together with hoeing and drawing for use, they should at last stand at from eight to ten inches distance, according to the soil. This may seem too much, but certainly carrots have, in common, too little room allowed them for at­taining their proper size. Let the first hoe be of the breadth of three inches, and the second of six. No consideration should prevail to let carrots stand too long before they are properly thinned.

A few late carrots may be sown in April and May, to draw young in the summer; and some in the autumn months to stand the winter, for early spring use, but carrots that stand the winter grow hard, and are of very little worth.

In autumn, let carrots be taken up as soon as their leaves begin to change; for when they continue too long in the ground, they are apt to get worm-eater, especially in rich soils. Cut the tops off at an inch, [Page 220] and lay them up dry and free from mould, in dry sand, a layer of sand, and a layer of carrots. All those that are broken, or cut, should be thrown aside for present spending, as they would decay in the heap, and spread infection in the rest. Those who grow large quantities for cattle, stack them in hovels, &c. with a thick coat of straw, bottom and sides, and particularly on the top. In a soil that suits them, carrots turn to good account, and are excellent food for all sorts of cattle, and parti­cularly pige.

CAULIFLOWER is sometimes distinguished into an early and late sort; though in fact, there is no differ­ence, only as the seed of that called early is saved from the forwardest plants.

The time for sowing cauliflowers is rather a nice business, but it is generally settled for the 20th of August, a day under or over. It will be prudent, however, to sow again a few days after, but not earlier, as then they would be apt to form only very little heads, and run up for seed. Let the young plants, be timely thin­ned, that they may be strong. Prick them out when the first leaves are about an inch broad. And as cauliflowers are tender, they will require to be pricked out in the warmest and driest part of the garden. Some of them should be protected under hand-glasses, frames, or ho [...]ps and mats, covering the glasses and mats with straw in severe weather; not doing this before the weather makes it necessary, and always allowing what air they will bear, especially towards spring, otherwise they may be disposed to run, or will be weak and sickly. As the season advances, let them be wholly uncovered on fair days, and when they are got forward in March, draw the spare ones to plant out, leaving only a single plant under a small hand-glass, and two under a large one; or a few may be drawn out at the end of February, if the glasses are crowded. Continue the glasses on as long as they will contain the plants, raising them upon bricks. The number generally put under hand-glasses [Page 221] for the winter, is from three to five. Those drawn from these, make a good succession crop: But do not prick out or plant, those that have black shanks, for they will come to nothing: Cauliflowers are liable to this defect chiefly in wet seasons.

If the autumn sown plants are cut off, the earliest opportunity must be taken in the new year to sow some seed on a gentle heat, as in February, covering with glasses, or only with hoops and mats. From this bed, when it is cold, they should be pricked out upon another, where let them grow till planted to bear. And if those weak ones that have stood all the winter were pricked out early in the spring upon a little heat, covered with good mould, it would strengthen and forward them much. In default of dung, sow under hand-glasses in a warm border.

To have a succession of cauliflowers till winter, sow on a slight heat, or under glass, in March, for plants to follow the first crop; and again in open ground, in April and May. It winter should overtake some of the latest plants, they may be taken up, when in flower, with a ball of earth, and planted in a conservatory, or even in a cellar, where they will swell their heads, and be safe. All the succession crops, except the last, should be planted in a cool part of the garden.

Cauliflowers require a rich soil, and to be kept moist during summer, especially when flowering, watering them well twice a week. If the water were impreg­nated with sheep or other dung, to the strength of about an ounce of salt to a gallon of water, if would help them in size, for cauliflowers are greedy feeders. The ground in which they grow, can hardly be too full of dung; nor need there be any fear as to making them rank; a little salt thrown in the water [...] however, cleaner, and does away the idea of rankness. When they are wanted, the earth may be drawn a little from the stem, and put to again. As soon as the head ap­pears, break down one or two of the large leaves over [Page 222] them to protect from the weather: It preserves them white and cool, and increases the size.

CELERY we have three or four sorts of, as the common Italian upright, both hollow and solid, with the giant hollow, and turnip rooted, or celeriac.

For early celery, sow in the last week of February, or first in March, on a gentle bot bed, or in a warm rich border, under a hand-glass, or not. When cul­tivated so early, it is apt to run, but if only a few plants stand tolerably, it is worth while to sow a little, and even when in a pipy state it does for soups. Sow thin, cover so, and keep the earth moist; for the seed is slow in coming up.

For principal crops, sow at Mid-March, and again at Mid-April.

For a few late plants, a little seed may be sown at the beginning and latter end of May; and if the ground is covered with a mat it will help the seed to germinate, by keeping the earth cool, and from air. But it must be taken off, and the ground lightly watered as soon as the plants appear. If the weather should be very sunny, shade they young plants a little for a few days, by raising the mat, or laying some brush wood over.

Prick the plants out when two or three inches high, at three or four asunder; and when about six inches high, plant them in trenches a yard distant, and six inches from one another. In a light soil the trenches may be somewhat deeper; but generally near a spade's depth is proper, and a spade's width, keeping the walls firm and upright.

If the soil is not very good, dig in a little well-rotted dung at bottom; but the celery will be sounder and sweeter without dung, so that a little fresh earth were better; and though the plants will not come up so large, they will be hardier to resist frost. The later that celery is planted out, the shallower the trenches should be.

[Page 223] Water celery at pricking out and planting, and oc­casionally afterwards in very dry weather.

Earth up the plants frequently (as suppose every week or ten days) a little at a time, in order to blanch them, by which they become crisp, sweet, and tender: The celery gets tough when this business is let alone too long. In earthing up, it is a good way to gather them close (but carefully) with the left hand, using a trowel, or small spade.

In severe frost lay some long, dry litter over the tops, which remove when the frost goes.

Celeriac requires a rich soil, and should have frequent watering to have fine tender roots. Plant in trenches about three inches deep, and earth up, (only once) when the plants are about three parts grown, to four inches height. This species is hardier than the others, and holds longer in spring; therefore, those who like the solid root should cultivate it.

The seed of celery, (in default of plants) if bruised, answers very well to give soup a flavour of it. Parsley seed, &c. may be used in the same way.

CHARDON is a gigantic vegetable of the artichoke kind, (now seldom cultivated, used sometimes in sallads, but chiefly in soups, or stewed, &c. It should be sown about the middle of March, and end of April, in trenches, four feet asunder, a foot wide, and six inches deep. Drop the seed (which will be near a month coming up) a few inches asunder, and thin them at last to the distance of from three to four feet. They must be watered in a dry time. Those plants that are drawn may be taken up with balls of earth about them, and planted in trenched rows as celery, at the above distances, and the rows five feet from one another. The leaves only of this plant are used, after they are blanched; which is done by earthing two-thirds of their length up, when about three or four feet high, typing neat hay▪bands first close round them, to within a foot of the top; i. e. blanch when they are full grown, in [Page 224] August and September, and in about six weeks they will be fit for use. In frost cover the tops with straw. It will assist the blanching to lay straw, or offal hay, close round them when untied.

CHOU DE MILAN is of the boorcole kind, and propagated like it, but the plants should be put out at a yard asunder. This is a very good winter green, and stays longer than any other at spring before it shows for seed, and is then in its highest perfection.

COLEWORT is a very hardy small open headed green, sown in July, or early in August, for winter and spring use. But instead of the true colewort (a coarse vegetable) it is common to sow the early sort of cab­bages as an agreeable substitute, to be eat in their open state. The sweetest of this kind of green, however, is the large sugar-loaf cabbage, sown about Midsummer, which frequently stands the winter.

These plants should be put out for use, at from eight to twelve inches asunder, according to the nature of the sort sown, some of the early cabbages being very small, as the Russian.

Coleworts are seldom cultivated otherwise than for winter and spring use; but all the year it were well for the garden to supply them, as they are, what may be truly esteemed, choice greens. With this view sow some cabbage seed every month.

CUCUMBER has several shades of difference in it, arising from culture and accident; but the common and more distinct green sorts of it, are the short and the long prickly, the cluster, the early African, and the Turkey. There are also a white short prickly, (or Dutch cucumber) and a white Turkey sort. The white Dutch (like the white Turkey) is an idle bearer, and seldom met with; but it has an evident difference in flavour, and admired by most who eat of it.

The early nature of a cucumber is the principal object with gardeners, for as much skill and care is exercised to produce forward ones, it is a great draw-back [Page 225] to have sown seed not of the forwardest kind. Of the seed called early, there is no doubt much dif­ference: How material a thing it is to improve the breed, and to be ascertained of the quality of seed for early crops is therefore evident.

The principal crop of cucumbers should be the long prickly, which is preferable on the whole to any other. The Turkey grows strait, long and large; but quality is certainly before quantity, and the cucumber that eats crispest is the best. In this respect the Dutch white (little as it is cultivated) is, perhaps, even before the justly admired long prickly, and has fewer seeds. The early African, is a very favourite cucumber with some gardeners: It clusters.

Seed should never be saved except from the greenest and handsomest cucumbers; but that which is bright frequently is from clumsy, smooth, yellow, seedy fruit, which is always watery and vapid.

The ambition of gardeners has been pretty much ex­ercised to have cucumbers every month in the year; but the expense and trouble are surely vain, when be­stowed in the production of what, in the cold months, is unwholesome, and not much relished. A gardener that can cut a cucumber by the first of April does suf­ficiently well, or rather better than he that produces them before. See, Of raising cucumbers in the last section.

ENDIVE is a sallad and culinary vegetable, of which there are three sorts, the curled, green, and white, and the plain, or broad leaved. To these may be added, however, a plant of the same kind, which is seldom propagated in gardens, the wild succory, used sometimes medicinally. The plain, or Batavian endive, is but little used in sallads, as the curled is so much prefera­ble though cooks prefer it for stewing: The green is the hardiest, and therefore the late sowings should be all of this. Sow succory in March.

[Page 226] Sow endive at three several times, between the mid­dle of May, and the middle of July, at equal intervals. Some of the first may, perhaps, run for seed; but yet a little should be then sown; as also at the beginning of August for late use. Scatter the seeds thin, and do not suffer them to grow in clusters to become weak. When the plants are about three inches high, plant them out in an open situation a foot asunder, watering them at the time, and twice or thrice after till they have taken root. The same sowing will make several crops, drawing the strongest first, and in a week after more.

Those planted out after Michaelmas should be on warm borders; but if long after (as towards winter) the method of planting is thus, which blanches at the same time: Draw earth to an high ridge, under a sunny wall, and taking up carefully some full grown endive in a dry state, gather the leaves up close, with­out breaking, tie them neatly with bass, and put them close together sideways; i. e. horizontally, in the ridge, almost to the top of the leaves. If any suspicion of wet in them, hang the plants up by the roots, in some covered, shady, airy place, for a day or so. In severe weather lay straw over all.

Endive in open ground should be protected from sharp frost by peas haulm, or dry litter. Some may be planted in frames, or under hand-glasses, giving plenty of air, or in a shed, or hovel, open towards the sun; and this may be either in the upright, or ridged way.

The blanching of endive in open ground is thus: Gather up the leaves (being dry) when nearly of a full grown size, and tie them regularly, and carefully round, from the middle upwards, moderately close, with bass, and earth them up to the middle, if the soil is light and dry, but not otherwise. In two or three weeks, the blanching is effected, after which the endive must soon be used, or it will rot, especially if much wet comes. The object of blanching, is to take away the bitter taste of the endive, and to make it crisp and ten­der. [Page 227] Blanch a little at a time, once a week, that it may come in proper succession.

GARLICK is used for both culinary and medicinal purposes. The cloves should be planted in autumn, or early in spring, in rows six or eight inches asunder, three deep, and six from one another in the rows, pre­ferring a light dry soil. If the leaves are tied up in knots the beginning of June, it will prevent their spind­ling for seed, and help their bulbs to swell. Take them up towards autumn, when their leaves turn yel­low, and keep them in bags, or hang them up in a dry place, for use.

GOURD, SQUASH, and CALABASH, as of one fam­ily; see PUMPION, the culture being the same.

HORSE-RADISH is variously used for culinary pur­poses, and may be reckoned one of our most whole­some roots; when scraped fine, it is a good addition to sallads, especially in the colder season. Propagate crowns, or pieces of the root, from one to two inches long, having an eye or two, set from nine to twelve inches below the surface of the ground, (according to the nature of the soil, as heavy or light) by digging a trench, and covering them over, or by making holes with a dibble; this should be the work of February, or October, and the soil must not only the be deep, but rich, or the roots will be weak.

This root will grow finer, and be more conveniently dug, to have the rows two feet, and the sets one foot asunder in them, though a less distance is the more common practice. Where there is plenty of ground, however, it is not worth while to be cramped, and the first year of planting the ground may be cropped with any early things. The roots will not be fit for use the first year; but the second it comes strong and warm. Take them up carefully and regularly, moving the earth away, and cut them off close to the stool, from whence fresh heads will spring.

[Page 228] New plantations of horse-radish should be made about every fifth year; old ones should be cleared from the straggling side shoots, in order to keep the rows open, but take them up deeply.

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE is cultivated for the root, (which eats like artichoke bottoms) and it is an ornamental plant, growing similar to the perennial sun-flower, with which it classes, but taller. Propagate in March, by planting cuttings of its root, as potatoes. The root is red, and full of indented eyes, every one of which is sure to grow; but it is not much admired. Where it has been once planted, it must be carefully dug up, or it will not easily be got rid of. Any poor ordinary spot of spare ground will do for it. Preserve the roots in dry sand, when they can be no longer pre­served in the ground, immediately dug from which they are much best.

KIDNEY BEAN we have two sorts of, dwarfs and runners, each of which has a rather numerous variety, arising from the colour of the seed, time of coming in, and taste. Both sorts have their admirers, but the dwarf is more generally esteemed, and more conveni­ently cultivated.

Of the variety in the dwarf beans, some come earlier than others; but there is a difference in opinions, which is the best, as to earliness and quality. The yellow and the black are, perhaps, as forward as any. The early white is not long behind, and is of superior quality, but is not so hardy as the yellow and black, and some others; this may, therefore, be the second crop. The dwarf sorts come in quicker than the run­ners. For the principal crop, the Battersea and Can­terbury beans are mostly used by the market gardeners, being good and prolific.

Of the runners, or climbing sort, the common scarlet, and the white Dutch, are generally preferred, and when mixed together, their blossoms make an agree­able [Page 229] show, and bear a long time, if the beans are gathered constantly as they get fit for use.

The dwarf sorts of this vegetable may be had most months in the year, by the united means of open cul­ture, hot beds, and hot houses. In cold ground they are sometimes sown, close under a south wall, towards the end of a dry March, but April is soon enough; for if they get above ground without rotting, (as the seed is apt to do, when the ground is long wet) a little frost will cut them off.

The latter end of March, however, if some are sown in a warm border, in patches, and covered with hand-glasses, they will do very well. Or an early crop may be produced by raising the beans, at this time, on a gentle hot bed, and planting them out, when two or three inches high, under glasses, in patches, tow feet asunder. If the beans are raised in small pots, three or four in each, they may be [...]ned out whose, with great advantage, as kidney beans do not always bear transplanting well; and they may be covered on nights with hand-glasses, garden pots, &c.

When planted in rows singly, let it be under a warm wall, and not (if it can be avoided) till the end of April, or beginning of May; and protect them a while at first on cold nights, with matting or otherwise.

As to the hot bed culture of kidney beans, if any are attempted to be brought to fruit on heat, let them be raised, towards the end of February, upon one gentle bed, (or in pots, at the back of a cucumber frame) and planted out in another, in rows fifteen inches apart, and at four inches in the rows; for nearer they will not fruit well. The bed may be about two and a half feet thick, and must have on it seven or eight inches of mould, and the plants treated with as much air as can safely be given them. Line the bed before the heat is quite gone, to preserve and forward them. The sort used for forcing in hot houses is a reddish speckled one; but the early white is fittest for forcing in hot beds, as [Page 230] of lower growth: The early yellow and black may do, but they are not so good as the white.

The Common culture of the dwarf bean, in the proper season, and open ground, is to sow them an inch or an inch and half deep, three asunder, and two feet, or a little more, to a yard between the rows, according to the size of the seed, for some sorts require more room than others. Let them be earthed up as they proceed in growth; and to have a succession, sow every three weeks; remembering that a crop produces more, and lasts longer, the oftener the beans are gathered: It is proper, therefore, to gather them constantly whilst young and good.

The last crop should be under 2 warm wall, and may be sown as late as the middle, or end of July, and if very dry weather, let the beans for this, and the June crop, be soaked about twelve hours in milk and water, and the drills watered, in order to forward their germination, and bring them more certainly and regu­larly up. It is a good way to prepare the seed for high summer, by laying it in a garden pot, in damp mould, till it begins to chit, and then planting it in watered drills. In a course of dry warm weather, kidney beans should be watered, especially while young. The culture of runners is to sow them near two inches deep, four or five asunder, and the rows four or five feet apart. They will thus require tall brushy sticks to climb upon; but they may be sown in patches of about fifteen inches diameter, placing the beans five or six inches asunder, in the circumference, and fixing a pole in the middle for them to run upon. The end of April, or beginning of May, is soon enough to put the climbing sorts into the ground; and two more sowings, at about five weeks between each, will go through the season.

If seed is saved, let it be only from some of the first beans of the principal crop, for all late formed seeds, and particularly of the kidney bean, are not near so [Page 231] good as the early ones, often failing or producing weak plants, and late ill tasted fruit.

LEEK, we have a narrow and a broad leaved sort of, the latter of which is the one generally cultivated. The leek requires a good soil and open situation in order to have them fine.

Sow in February, if the weather is tolerable, or at the beginning of March. Thin in April to three inches asunder, and plant them out the first moist weather after Midsummrer, in rows, a foot apart, and at six inches in the rows; though if the ground be very rich, and the leeks forward, a little more may be allowed to advantage.

Trim the tops, and ends of the roots, and plant with a dibble, two or three inches in the ground, in order to whiten the heads; but to this end, some have planted leeks in trenches, and earthed them up high, with a light soil, or sand.

Towards winter, or in prospect of frost, leeks may be taken up, and laid with their roots in sand, or earth, in some conservatory or cellar. A few sown in April to stand all winter for spring use is a proper practice.

LETTUCE is a vegetable, of which there is a great variety. The brown Dutch, and the green cabbage lettuces come earliest, and are mostly to be depended upon to stand the winter; though the other sorts often do, except the silver, and white coss. The brown and the green Egyptian goss are excellent, being hardy and large, forming close heads; but the latter is earliest. The Cabbage lettuce eats moderately well, but is chief­ly used in soups, &c. The Silesia lettuce is much admired by some, though at present but little culti­vated: There is a brown and green sort.

For winter and spring use, the hardier sorts are sown in July, August, and September, but chiefly in August, when if three sowings are made, the beginning, middle and end of the month it will generally be sufficient.

[Page 232] For summer use, the white coss, and any of the others, may be sown on warm borders, either in open ground, or under hand-glasses, or other cover, in February, and a little constantly every fortnight, or three weeks after, chusing cooler ground for them when summer advances. Plant them from ten to fourteen inches asunder according to the size they at­tain; it being an error to put lettuces out so near as many do, for it forces them to run for seed, and pre­vents their growing large: The sort called the admira­ble should be allowed eighteen inches. Lettuces may be pricked out very young; and when three or four inches high is the best time for planting them.

It is not a common way, but spring sown lettuces will be forwarder and larger, if sown thin, and only thinned out to their proper distance: Those that are drawn may serve for a second crop. The brown Dutch, green capuchin, and the tennis, and button lettuces do not run up so soon for seed as the other sorts, and are therefore proper for late summer use. To forward early spring sown ones, a slight hot bed may be made, and by all means ought to be some time in February, if those that were to have stood the winter are cut off. When these plants are an inch high, they should be pricked out, four inches asunder, upon another gentle hot bed. When they meet, or are four or five inches high, draw every other to plant out in open ground, and let the rest remain to cabbage.

Hand-glasses, frames, or hoops, covered with mats, or peas straw, may be used to protect lettuces in winter, especially those that are forward, which are more likely to be destroyed than the smaller, as the wet hangs in them; let covered plants have a great deal of air at all opportunities. Winter lettuces re­quire a dry soil and situation, and a wet one is helped by planting on hillocks, which is a method that fre­quently saves them from rotting.

[Page 233] To have fine winter lettuces, some of the forwardest may be taken up with balls of earth about them in November, and planted at nine or ten inches distance, on a somewhat strong hot bed, which as soon as the great heat is certainly over, should be covered with six or seven inches of dry mould for the purpose, but give a little water just about the roots: Line the bed when it gets cool. Lettuces must be well attended to, to give them plenty of air, pick off dead leaves, cover on nights, &c. frequently stir the surface of the mould, and give water as occasion may dictate. The cabbage lettuce succeeds best in hot beds.

Tying lettuces with bass, from the middle upwards, when about three parts grown, will somewhat help them to whiten and cabbage; but let this business be done carefully. Some gardeners do not think it worth while to practise it; and indeed, right good sorts (as to seed) will cabbage themselves, and open ones it is of little use to; yet this assistance may be tried to the first crop.

This vegetable is sometimes sown thick, to draw young for small sallading; for which purpose, the lap and cabbage lettuces are the properest, as they eat ten­dered and sweeter in their infant state, and the lap let­tuce seed is very cheap.

MELON there is a variety of, in size, shape, coat, and colour of the flesh: This is greater on the Conti­nent, and more than sufficiently so here. The sorts we succeed in, and which are usually sown, are the musk (or common oblong ribbed melon,) the Roman, the Portugal, and the Cantaleupes in variety, as the common rock, the black, the orange, and the silver. The Roman and Portugal are small, but early. The Cantaleupes are justly the most admired fruit, but are not so good bearers as the others.

The seed that is brought from the continent seldom succeeds here. Whoever sows it, must not begin too early in the season, must use more heat, and give less [Page 234] water than is necessary for Denizens. See, Of raising Melons, p. 197.

ONION, we have several sorts, but the Strasburgh (oval shaped) is that mostly cultivated as it keeps the best. The silver skinned and Spanish (flat shaped) are milder, and therefore by some preferred. The Welch sort does not bulb, and it is rank; but for its being very hardy, is sown thick in August, and suffered to stand so for winter and spring use, as a green substitute for others. At this time also, some of the Strasburgh may be sown, and perhaps stand the winter. The Welch onion is not only hardy, but perennial, by cut­ting the green tops off. These sometimes die down in severe winters, but the roots shoot again.

The small silver-skinned onion is the sort fittest for summer sallading, and pickling. Sow first at the end of March, and to have them young once a month af­ter. There is a sort of onion that keeps two years, yet not much admired.

The scallion is a hot distinct kind of perennial on­ion that does not bulb; and is got quite out of cul­tivation, having given way to the Welch onion, as also to the other sorts, that are made milder scallions of, by planting early in spring, those that decay and sprout in the house, which quickly grow. Set them in drills six inches asunder, and two inches apart in the drills.

For the principal crop of onions, sow the Strasburgh or any other, towards the end of February, or soon after, though any time in March may do, for it is desirable to shun frost: Let the soil be rich. The earliest crops (of course) produce the largest bulbs. As soon as they will bear it, (perhaps in five or six weeks) let them be thinned either by hoe or hand, to an inch or two apart, and twice afterwards, till each root has full four inches square of ground to grow in.

Onions will transplant when five or six inches high, taking care to give water immediately. If any onion [Page 235] seed is sown, that comes directly from Portugal or Spain, it will be very large the first year, and should have six inches room allowed them to bulb finely.

Crops of onions should be kept very clean from weeds, and it would be of advantage to water them once or twice a week in dry weather. In July or August, when the leaves begin to die at the ends, shrink and turn yellow, let them be bent down to the ground, and in about ten days after, drawn in dry weather, and laid to harden by the sun, turning them every two or three days for a fortnight. House them clean and dry, into neither a warm, nor damp, but close room; laying them thin, frequently looking them over in the winter to pick decayed ones out, which would damage the rest: But onions are best kept strung and hung up.

PARSLEY, as an esculent root, is that called Ham­burgh; it is eat as carrots, and is considered as a remedy in the gravel and stone. Sow it early in March or April, either at broad cast or in drills, and leave the plants six inches asunder. The roots may be preserved in sand; but it is the practice of some to sow at Mid­summer, to draw them young in winter, being best when fresh dug. See parsley, next section.

PARSNEP is a sweet and valuable root, less culti­vated than it deserves, being accounted very nouris­ing. As carrots require a light soil, so the parsnep does a strong one. Sow about the end of February, or early in March, digging the ground well and deep. If the soil is light, tread the seed in twice over to fasten it; it comes up in about three weeks. Thin when about two inches high, with a small hoe, and afterwards with a large one, so as to leave the roots in a good rich soil, a foot asunder, though eight or ten inches will do in light, or indifferent land. Any thing that is to go off quick, may be sown with parsneps, as carrots to draw young, radishes, lettuces, &c. Parsneps are not good till arrived to maturity. These [Page 236] roots are to be taken up, and preserved as carrots; but they may remain longer in the ground, and are seldom hurt by frost, so that some of the roots are commonly left undug till spring, and then taken up for use just as they begin to shoot, if they are not wanted for seed; when they will keep good in sand till Mid-April.

PEA, we have a considerable garden variety of, arising from the size, time of coming in, colour of flower and fruit, and somewhat in taste. The prin­cipal distinction is made, as to early and late peas, so that if the earliest pea is sown at the same time with one of the latest, there will be three weeks difference in their bearing, and a fortnight is usually reckoned between the common hotspur and marrowfat.

The early frame pea (which is that forced in hot beds, &c.) may be sown close under a warm wall at the middle, or rather at the latter end of October, or begin­ning of November, and being kept to the wall, by earth­ing and by strings, or otherwise, will commonly sur­vive the winter, and produce peas in May: But at a little distance from the wall in November, they do very well, either in a line along it, or in short rows from it, a yard asunder, at right angles with it, or inclining a point to the east, to catch the first sun.

The frame pea is not a good bearer, either in the size, or number of its pods, and therefore the hotspurs being hardier and more prolific, are sown by many gardeners for their earliest crop, and the difference of coming in is often but a few days. The frame pea, however, takes up less room than the hotspurs, and in this respect best suits a fruit border, which should not be encumbered with tall crops. Facny will rule in the choice of peas, but the established sorts of the Read­ing hotspur, and dwarf marrowfats, are excellent for full summer crops.

The frame pea may be sown a quarter of an inch from one another, and the hotspur half; it is common indeed to sow thicker, but it is not advisable.

[Page 237] Earthing up peas, and particularly the early crops, should be done frequently, a little at a time, in dry weather, beginning when only an inch high. Before frost comes on, the early peas must be earthed up high, and some peas haulm, or dry straw laid lightly against, or over them, in hard frosts; but let the covering be immediately removed aside when the weather becomes mild.

S [...]king peas is to take place as soon as they begin to vine, (put forth tendrils) or appear too weak to support themselves against wind. Let the sticks be set strait, neat, and full; and by all means high enough for the sorts; allowing sticks of three feet above ground for the frame pea, near five for the hotspur, near six for the dwarf marrowfat, and seven or eight for the larger sorts. If short of wood, sticking only the S. or W. side of the rows may do, if the wind does not set very contrary. Some people sow double rows of peas at ten inches or a foot asunder, and set sticks only in the middle, earthing the peas towards them. Peas that are to grow without sticks, may be sown, the smaller sorts at two, and the larger at three feet asunder.

The latter end of November, or beginning of De­cember, more peas may be sown, and towards the end of January, and the beginning of February, in order to have a full supply at the first of the season: The earliest opportunity in the new year should be taken, if those sown before have been cut off, or greatly in­jured. Peas sown at the beginning of February are often only a week behind those of November.

To have a constant succession of them, peas should be sown about once a month in winter, every three weeks in spring, and every fortnight in summer, which may be continued till the middle of July, when if some hotspurs are sown in a sheltered and sunny sit­uation, they may do very well.

[Page 238] The late and large sorts of peas, as the marrowfat Morattos, American, &c. should be first sown towards the end of February, and not sooner, left they rot.

The dwarf marrowfats should be laid in the drills half an inch asunder, the large marrowfats three-quarters, the Moratto an inch, and the American two inches, and each sort covered near two inches. The Leadman's dwarf pea, for its small size, is admired at genteel tables, and is sweet and fruitful; but rather longer in coming in than the usual late sorts: It es­capes the mildew better than other peas, and therefore is proper for the latest crops in open ground: It re­quires sticks only from two to three feet high, and may be sown thicker than any other pea: It may be sown till Midsummer. On the same day that hotspurs are sown, put in a crop of any of these late peas, and they will come in proper succession; i. e. ten days or a fortnight after.

To save seed peas, let none be gathered from the rows except late formed ones, which had better not be among the rest, for the reason given in the article kid­ney bean.

A few observations may be added. Peas will trans­plant, and therefore broken rows may be made up, only chuse (if possible) mild and moist weather for the work in March, and shade them with a little straw, while they have taken root. If the autumn sown crops were cut off, peas may be sown under hand-glasses in January or February, and thus forwarded, planting them out when they have been two or three weeks above ground.

Watering peas in a dry time answers well, and es­pecially when in flower and fruiting. To receive the water there should be ridges drawn towards the earth­ing up, forming a gutter on each side.

If slugs, or other insects attack young peas, strew some lime fresh slacked, or soot along the rows, so as not immediately to touch the plants, after which give [Page 239] them a watering. If the peas are still infested, repeat the application.

Mice must be guarded against as to autumn and winter sown peas, by immediately setting traps for them, of which a number of the common block ones will be found to answer best, setting one at every two yards.

Peas do not like dung, and will be more fruitful in a moderate soil than a rich one, except the rouncivals, of which we have the White, green, grey, and blue sorts.

Stopping peas (i. e. cropping the leading shoot) is practised by some gardeners, to promote fruitfulness and maturity: This is a reasonable practice, but chiefly relates to the early crop.

POTATOE is found to be the most useful root that is cultivated, though it is not many years that it has been in so general estimation. Its worth and uses are now pretty well known, and it seems settled, that as a substitute for bread, it is most profitably eat without mixture.

As the potatoe degenerates when it is long propagated from roots, they are occasionally raised from seed, which changes the sorts. Some are denominated meally, others waxy; i. e. are either of a loose or a firm con­texture: The former is best adapted for food, as most farinaceous. They are distinguished again as to shape, into round, oval, and clustered.

Potatoes will grow in any soil, but best in one that is light, cool and good, especially a fresh one. Season, as well as soil, makes a difference in their goodness, as does the way of boiling them in eating, on which the quality of the water has some effect, as indeed it has on all vegetables, and that is the best water in which they are boiled quickest. The white potatoes are generally preferred, but some of the red kinds are very good; and the old rough red from Lancashire, was one of the best ever cultivated: About fifty years ago, one but red ones met with a good sale at market. [Page 240] The kidney shaped sor [...] are most generally approved, as boiling or roasting more equally through; and among these, the red nose kidney (a white potatoe) is the present favourite: others, however, are no doubt as good, and many sorts there are.

The coarse kinds of potatoe are given to hogs; but whether even for them, [...] ought not to be pre­ferred to quantity, may be considered. The clustered American potatoe is reckoned most profitable for cattle, yielding great increase; but the goodness of a potatoe as food, is to be estimated by the quantity of flour it produces. The early potatoes are small, but by com­mon culture are produced in June, when soon after their tops change yellow, which betokens their having arrived to maturity: They will keep better in the ground (it being summer) than if taken up.

The cultivation of potatoes is various, as experiment and opinions ha [...]d: It would be too much here to take particular notice of each method; and to say every thing that might be advanced on this subject.

For sets or cuttings, prefer middle sized, well shaped potatoes, and let each piece have one good eye in its middle, or at the most two. They should be set in rows, eighteen inches asunder, in a poor soil, twenty-one in a middling, and two feet in a rich one. In the former, the sets may be six or seven inches apart, and in the latter eight or nine. In a light soil, plant them five or six inches deep, and in a heavy one only three or four. When planted deep, they will not need earthing up above once, but when shallow, two or three times. In a light soil, they may be put in with a blunt dibble, but in a heavy one should be laid in trenches; and if the trenches were dug deep, and first filled with long dung, old thatch, or short straw, it would be a great advantage, covering them up in ridges, and drawing mould to as they settle. Cold, moist ground should be divided into beds of two or three rows each, with sunk alleys between; and as in such [Page 241] a soil the sets should not be above three inches deep, the sinking of the alleys may be made by earthing the rows up from time to time. In a heavy soil make the rows rather wider than in a light one, that there be a due quantity of mould to draw for earthing up.

Early potatoes are procured several ways. On a hot bed, some may be planted in February, or under hand-glasses, in a warm border, or without. There are early sorts on purpose for this culture, called mules, as they do not bear seed. As these potatoes are small, they may be planted whole, or rather cut in halves, paring off the eyes at the crown where they are thick, as it never answers to have many shoots come from a set; whole ones should be planted a foot asunder, and halves at eight inches.

Look over the stock of early potatoes, and plant those first carefully in trenches that have rooted shoots, for they will produce the first fruit, especially if short and bushy. When up in hot beds, or under hand-glasses, let them have plenty of air, and in open ground be protected from frost by timely earthing up, and oc­casional covering with haulm, or straw, which must not be kept on, but upon necessity. As these early potatoes are on a warm border, a little water in a dry time will forward them, and increase their size. In default of the true early potatoe, sets with good for­ward shoots of any of the other sorts may be treated as above.

From Mid-March to Mid-April is the properest time (earlier or later as the soil is dry or moist) to plant for the principal crop, though May, or even June, generally produce an increase worth the cultivation. The roots from late crops should not be used for plant­ing, as they are more liable to the curl: Those pota­toes growing sickly in a wet soil, are also subject to this defect. Potatoes, being of superficial growth, should be regularly weeded, as long as they can be walked among without treading on the tops.

[Page 242] Ground, designed for a field crop, should be twice ploughed, and the first time some weeks before the setting.

In the potatoe counties, they change their sorts every third or fourth year; procuring fresh kinds from places farther North, as a means to avoid the curl, which seems to arise chiefly from the tender nature of the potatoe, and advises us not to be too early in planting.

Seedling potatoes are procured by saving the first thorough ripe pods, (called apples) and either preserving them in very dry sand till spring, or immediately sepa­rating them from the pulp, put the seed up dry in papers, when it is quite dry. In March, or April, sow the seed half an inch deep, in a light soil, in drills fifteen inches asunder, and thin the plants to six inches. Earth them up as they grow. Dig them as soon as the haulm dies, and carefully preserving them from frost, they will be fit to plant the [...]ext spring for table use.

That potatoes are very susceptable of frost, is well known; but it is often not sufficiently guarded against in time. If not kept in a warm cellar, they may be laid in a room, having some straw at bottom, and when in prospect of frost entering the house, they should be covered with straw, a foot thick: Let them be brought in clean and dry.

Pying (as it is called in some places) is a good method of preserving potatoes in winter. They are piled on the surface of the ground, in a ridged form, of a width and length at pleasure, according to the quantity, but commonly about six feet wide. This is done by digging a spit of earth, and laying it round the edge, a foot wide, (if turf the better) filling the space up with straw, and them laying on a course of potatoes, dig earth from the outside, and lay upon the first earth. Put straw a few inches along the inside edge, then put in more potatoes, and [...] on, keeping a good coat of straw all the way up between the pota­toes and the mould, which should abo [...] six inches [Page 243] thick all over; beat it close together, and the form it lies in, with the trench all round, will preserve the potatoes dry; and the severest frost will hardly affect them, in a time of which the whole may be covered thick with straw. In the spring, look over the stock, and break off the shoots of those designed for the table, and repeat this business, to preserve the potatoes longer good.

PUMPIONS there are many sorts of; but they are esculents little cultivated, because little relished. They take up much room, spreading from twenty to forty feet square of ground. As gigantic curiosities, or to cover an arbour, we now and then see them; but they must have a good deal of sun to forward their ripening. There is a great variety in the shape, colour, and rind of this fruit, and the sizes are from four inches diam­eter to eighten, or more. The bottle gourd, or common pumpion, has produced fruit, even in this climate, six feet long. In America, a single plant of the gourd, without any culture, spread over so large a spot of ground, as to produce 260 fruits, one with another, as big as a half peck. They grow so large in Egypt, that the camel (so remarkable for its strength) is not able to carry above five or six of them.

Pumpions being tender, are raised on a moderate hot bed, in April, or May, according to the time desired to have fruit at. After the seed has been up a few days, prick the plants out at four or five inches, or rather put them in small pots, one in each. When a month old, they may be planted out about four yards asunder, one of the large sorts, or two of the small ones, on a hole of two or three barrows full of hot dung, and about ten inches thick of mould. Cover with hand-glasses, or garden pots, or hoops and mats, on nights, till Mid-June. On such a hole of hot dung they may be sown in May, under a hand-glass, and there remain to fruit. Pumpions will do very well sometimes (in favourable seasons and situations) sown [Page 244] in May, on cold ground. The seed should be covered near an inch, and the plants kept earthing up as they grow. Water well in dry and warm weather. The orange gourd looks very pretty when trained up a strong pole, spirally, or to a wall. Drinking vessels have been made of the shells of wellripened gourds, as is done with the cocoanut.

RADISH is of two kinds, the spindle rooted, and the round, of each of which there is a variety. Of the former we have the early purple, and the early pink, short topped, and late large topped ones of both sorts. Of the latter there are the white, black, and red turnip radishes. The white (of which there is a small and large sort) is mostly cultivated, but the others are both good; the black grows large, and the red small. The purple sorts, and the small white and red eat the cool­est. The order of coming in from the time of sow­ing is, the purple, and the pink, spindle sorts, and the turnip, red, white, and black: The latter is very hardy for winter use.

For the first crop, the early purple short top may be sown the latter end of October, November, and Decem­ber, in a warm border, and have a chance of surviving the winter, if a little protected in frosts by short sticks, stuck sloping in the ground, to support mats; or by laying peas haulm, or wheat straw, lightly over them, which may be an inch or two thick, as the frost is; but no longer than it lasts may the covering be on. In open weather in January and February sow again, and in these months, and the preceding one, cover the ground over with some straw, and it will help to fetch the seeds up, and preserve them from being thrown out of the ground by frost, as also from birds. As soon as they begin to appear, let them be uncovered to harden them to the air, if the weather is not too severe. Thin these radishes to an inch and a half, or two inches asunder, though some gardeners let them grow thicker.

A hot bed is frequently used for radishes about Christ­mas, or in January and February, which must not be [Page 245] too warm a one, as it would hurry the seed up, and make them grow all top, and come to nothing. Two feet thick of dung is sufficient, on which seven or eight inches of light mould should be put on, (rather sifted) and the seed immediately sown on the surface, (rather thick) and covered with half an inch of earth, giving the whole a gentle pressure, that the seed may not lie too lightly in contact with the mould, a circumstance that in all cases should be avoided; for roots will grow better when the earth is somewhat firm [...] them. Thin the plants to an inch asunder, before they begin to draw one another up weak; if wider it were better, but room in a hot bed is precious. Hot bed radishes, under glass, must have plenty of air, and though covered, are not to be shut down close on nights, except severity of frost demand it. In lieu of frames, a hot bed of radishes may, in February, or after be hooped, and covered with on nights, and in bad weather; and in this way, indeed, they generally succeed best. Line forward beds, when the heat declines, that they may proceed in growth, without check or interruption.

Repeat sowing of radishes every three weeks in spring, and fortnight in summer, sowing in cool ground as the season advances, and they may be had almost the whole year. In dry weather water. Allow three inches distance to those sown after February, or rather more for the longed topped sorts. The turnip kind may now be sown; yet their best season is after Michaelmas. But sow only the small white and red; the large white and black are considered merely as autumn and winter sorts, which will often continue good to spring: In prospect of severe weather, some of these may be taken up, and preserved in sand, having first cut the tops off short.

Thin the small turnip sorts to four inches distance, and the large to six or eight: Sow the two last sorts in June, July, or even August. In August, or September, sow also some of the other sorts of radishes. Turnip [Page 246] radishes are rarely sown on hot beds; but the small red sort will be found an agreeably early crop, and may stand as thick as the spindle rooted kinds.

The ground should be well dug for radishes, especially the long rooted sorts, and the seed carefully covered a full half inch, leaving none on the top (if possible) to lure birds, which will frequently do much mischief to the crop. It is a troublesome mode, but radishes when drilled are safer, and being thin [...] [...] the rows by hand they come fine. Make the drills for the tap rooted sorts, from two to three inches asunder, but for the round wider. It is also a good method to sow radishes on beds four feet wide, and the mould being made fine on the top, beat the seeds in with the teeth of a wooden take till none appear, and then lightly draw the back of the rake over, to fill up the holes; or, having sown the bed, cover with mould from the alleys.

A sprinkle of radish seed may be frequently sown among other crops, as spinach; and the ground at spring that is designed for cauliflowers, may very prop­erly be sown with them, just before the plants are to be set out.

Draw the roots for use in regular thinning way, and those that are left will become the larger for it.

Radishes are sometimes sown thick for eating, while very young in the seed leaf, with other small sallading. And large radishes may be boiled, and eat as asparagus.

SALSAFY, though but little cultivated, is a useful vegetable. Its young shoots are eat as asparagus in spring, and its long white roots in autumn and winter as carrots, some of which are taken up, and preserved in sand for winter use. Those left in the ground may be dug up occasionally, or left to produce shoots for spring, or may stand for seed. Sow them early in March, in drills ten inches asunder, and thin the plants to six.

SAVOY is a sort of a cabbage, peculiarly adapted for late autumn and winter use, as frost improves it, making [Page 247] it tenderer and sweeter than before. Some gardeners forward them for early autumn use, but they are not then good. There is a green, and a yellow sort, the former mostly cultivated, as it looks best at table.

If savoys are desired forward, sow a little savoy seed in a warm border in February, or under a hand-glass; but a sowing in March, and another in April, in an open situation, is sufficient for late autumn, winter, and spring use. Thin the seed bed in time, that the plants may be strait and robust; and when about three inches high, prick them out to five or six inches dis­tance, where let them grow to a proper size, (as in June or July) to plant out at two feet apart, or a little more, in a rich soil. Chuse moist weather for this work, if possible, and give some water. Earth them up as they grow.

Sprouts of savoys are most delicate eating greens, and therefore if the ground is wanted where the stalks grow, let them be taken up, and laid deep in a trench to produce a second crop.

SCORZONERA is a carrot-rooted esculent, and there­fore requires a deep and cool soil. Cultivate it as salsafy, only let the drills be two inches wider, and the plants an inch or two more asunder.

SEA-CALE, or cabbage, is a vegetable not generally known, except in Essex, Sussex, and the West of Eng­land, but is much liked by many, and as an early spring production is valuable.

Its natural place of growth being the sea-beach, it is evident that a sandy soil suits it best. Some people cultivate it in almost all sand, which, if the natural soil of the place, is proper, as such surface sand is endowed with vegetable principles; but when a soil for this vegetable is made, it should be one half sharp, or drift sand, and the other half any light rich mould, which may be a little gravelly, or mixed with sea-coal ashes. Sow, or plant, either in autumn, or spring.

[Page 248] It is a root that lasts many years, and therefore should be properly planted and managed; either in beds of it, like those of asparagus, (the which it precedes) of four feet and a half wide, and two feet alleys be­tween; or in single rows of long trenches, which is perhaps the better way. They are best raised from seed, though often from offsets, or pieces of the roots, having two or three eyes to each.

The beds must be trenched, and of a dry loose earth, (as said) to two, or two and a half feet deep; and if any suspicion of wet ever hanging at bottom, lay a course of rough gravel or stones there. The plants should be near a foot asunder, kept five of six inches below the surface, that they may grow through a body of earth to blanch the sprouts; and they are to be cut up four or five inches deep, soon after they appear above ground. In summer, the ribs of the large leaves may be peeled, and eat as asparagus. They will want earthing up from the alleys every year, to keep them at the above depth; for which purpose keep proper earth in them. It is evidently best to sow, or plant, low enough at first, to be prepared for future earthing up; not to grow too low, however, if there is a clay bottom. Sets may be planted at first only three inches deep from their crowns, and earthed up to five or six as they rise: Some do this with fine sifted coal-ashes, and the effect may also be attained with the leaves of trees laid close round. Little should be cut the first year, but the second do it freely.

The seed should be dropped three or four in a hole, half an inch deep, and thinned to one plant in the sum­mer, earthing up a little as they proceed in growth. When the leaves decay in autumn, earth the plants over an inch or two, with mould from the alleys. In the spring, loosen the earth carefully with the asparagus fork, and at autumn, earth up as before. The follow­ing spring, fork again in time, and about April there will be plenty to cut, which, if suffered to grow large, [Page 249] will eat tough and strong. For seed, reserve a stool that has not been cut: The flower is so pretty, (white heads) as to be sown for ornament.

SHALOT is a perennial sort of onion, for which it is often substituted, and in some cases preferred, as being more agreeable to the palate and stomach, by its rich and mild nature.

The shalot is propagated by planting its offsets late in autumn, in a dry soil, or in spring, if a moist one. The latter time is generally adopted as safest; but autumn sets produce the finest bulbs. Plant two or three inches deep, and four or five asunder, in rows, six inches distance from one another. When the leaves wither, dig them up, le [...]t they decay in the ground, as they are apt to do when much wet falls.

SKIRRET is a very wholesome root, propagated by seed, as scorzonera, and sometimes by offsets of the old roots in spring, planted an inch deep over their crowns.

SPINACH is of two kinds, denominated from the seed, as prickly and smooth; the former is sown in autumn, i. e. [...] end of July, and about Mid-August, to gather in winter, and the beginning of spring, being very hardy; and the latter is sown early in the new year for after use, though the prickly does very well also for the same purpose. The smooth sort is rather tender, but it grows larger, with thicker leaves, and is therefore seldom sown, otherwise than at broad cast; but the prickly is frequently sown in drills, as between rows of pens, beans, &c. Soinach may be sown on pieces of ground, where it is intended to plant cauli­flowers, or cabbages.

At broad cast hoe thin, and trample the seed in with the feet, rather wide, that there may be a sufficient quantity of mould to rake down over the seed. Hoe the prickly sort to four inches apart, and the smooth to six, or more, in a rich soil. If in drills sow also thin, and cover an inch deep. Some people thin the [Page 250] plants in drills to three inches distance, and draw every other for use, when those left will grow large, and this may be proper with the smooth spinach; but it is more common not to thin the rows, and to gather, by cut­ting the leaves down low, when more will spring up again. It is a good way to sow spinach in beds of four feet, with alleys, that it may be the more conveniently attended and gathered, without trampling the ground: Gardening in this way of narrow beds will, in many cases, he found agreeable.

To have a full succession of spinach, sow in January and February, and afterwards again in three weeks, and then every fortnight, or even oftener, for it pres­ently runs to seed in summer, especially if the plants grow close. Some people are fond of drilled spinach, as it is quickly gathered, and fancied to eat better; but broad cast is commonly reckoned the best way, and gathering the outside leaves, the plant shoots again repeatedly: In spring, however, when the ground is wanted, and the plants are disposed to run, they should be drawn.

TURNIP we have a variety of sorts of, for table use, differing in colour and shape, earliness and flavour. The most common are the white sorts; but the yellow and red are by some admired, and are worthy of trial. The small early Dutch is that mostly cultivated in gar­dens, at least for the first crops, though the early stone sort is a good root.

Turnips are sown from March to September, but in June and July for the principal crops, which may be of the larger sorts. Late crops may be sown till Mid-August, but they will produce but small roots. Those sown in March will be apt to run for seed before they have formed much bottom, and must be watched to draw them in time. Yet the turnip is so favourite a vegetable that hot beds are sometimes made in February and March to forward it, though thus cultivated, it can attain but to a very small size. A bed of this sort must [Page 251] be slight, and have a great deal of air from the very sowing. A moderately light soil, with little dung, suits turnips best, and they should always have open ground that is well broke. Sow thin, trample close, and rake lightly: It is a way with some, to sow one third old seed with the new, for the greater certainly of a crop; the former sometimes succeeding when the latter misses. Do not neglect to hoe the crops in time, the early ones to five or six inches, and the late ones to eight or nine, though some large sorts should have more distance allowed them.

When the fly is observed to attack young turnips, it will be proper to stir the ground, and sow again imme­diately, or to chuse another spot for the purpose.

The NAVEW, or French turnip, (which is much ad­mired by some, and said to be the most nourishing sort of turnip) should be repeatedly sown from March to August, in a moist ground; but being a small, slender root, need not stand wider than five or six inches.

The cabbage turnip is of two kinds; one apples above ground, and the other in it. This vegetable is sometimes used young for the table; but it is chiefly cultivated for cattle. Sow it in May or June, for autumn use, or in June or July for the spring: They are very hardy. If sown in a garden, and pricked out, they may be transplanted in fields, the first moist wea­ther after a crop of oats, or barley, at half a yard, in a poor, or near two feet in a rich soil; and if the ground if foul, this culture gives a fine opportunity to clean it, by hoeing.

SECTION XVI.
OF HERES, &c.

ANGELICA is cultivated for the large ribs of its leaves, cut in May or June to make a candied preserve; and it is also a medicinal plant, in stalk, leaf, root, and seed. The seed should be sown after it is ripe, as in spring it does not come well. Put the plants out when a few inches high, at two feet asun­der. It is biennial; but if not cultivated for the seed, cut the stems down in May, and the plant will put out side shoots; and by this practice, every year, may be continued long in the same place. A moist situation suits it best, and it may be planted by ditches, or ponds.

BALM is either plain, or variegated; but the for­mer only is cultivated as a medicinal herb. It is prop­agated by parting the root, either in autumn or spring, but rather the latter. Slip off short pieces with roots, and plant them a foot, or fifteen inches asunder, giving a little water.

The balm that is gathered to dry, ought to be cut just as it gets into flower; as for this purpose all herbs should, being then in the highest perfection. Dry it in an airy, shady place, till fit to tie up in small bun­dles, which must be stored in a dry airy room. Balm, and most perennial herbs, should be fresh planted in beds every third or fourth year; and every year, in autumn or spring, should have the ground stirred about them, and dressed with a little fresh earth, the plants being previously cut down.

[Page 253] BASIL is pretty annual, of which we have two sorts, the large and the bush; (each having a variety) both are used as pot herbs, but chiefly the former. Sometimes also this herb is used in sallads, and occa­sionally in medicine. The large grows about a foot high, and the bush but a few inches. They are both sweet, but the bush most so; and for this, and its deli­cate round form, it is cultivated as a part of the furni­ture of the flower garden. Both sorts are sown on a gentle hot bed, in March or April, and may be pricked out in small pots, but they will hardly endure the open air till June.

BORAGE is a cordial herb, that has its varieties, as blue, red, and white flowered, and one with variegated leaves; but the former is that commonly cultivated as a pot herb, for sallads, and cool tankards. To have it young (as it should be for use) all the year, let it be sown in spring, summer, and autumn, either in drills or broad cast. Thin the plants to nine inches asunder. It sows itself in autumn, and likes a dry soil.

BUGLOSS possesses the like cordial virtues with bor­age, so that the one may be substituted for the other. Culture is the same.

BURNET is a warm perennial sallad herb, used also in cool tankards, propagated in spring or autumn, either by seed, or by parting its roots, and planting them a foot asunder. Keep it frequently cut down, that it may constantly furnish young shoots for use.

CAMOMILE is a useful medicinal herb, of which we have single and double flowering kinds; and of the latter, a sort with very full flowers. It is propagated by parting its roots, or by its runners in March or April, setting them nine or ten inches asunder. Gather the flowers in their prime, (as those of all plants should be) before they begin to fade; dry them thinly in the shade for a few days, and preserve them from damp in paper bags. The single sort is the strongest, though for quantity, the double is mostly cultivated.

[Page 254] CAPSICUM is sometimes cultivated for its young pods to pickle; being raised on a gentle hot bed, or two, to bring them forward till June, when (rather about the middle) they may be planted in open ground, about half a yard asunder. See list of annuals.

To have capsicums fine, if the ripe pods are wanted, sow them at the end of February, or beginning of March, and let them be well attended to, to give them as much air as the season will permit. The seed will be about a fortnight before it comes up.

CARAWAY seeds are medicinal, and being used in cakes, a few plants may have place in the garden. Sow in spring in a moist rich soil, and let them have six inches square to grow in.

CARDUUS BENEDICTUS is simply medicinal, and is of good repute. Sow it in autumn, either in drills or broad cast, and thin the plants to nine inches distance. It is annual, and must be cut down to the root for dry­ing, just as it gets into flower, about July.

CHERVIL is used in sallads, and is also a pot herb that was formerly in much estimation for its warm nature. Sow it thick in autumn for winter and spring use. When sown in spring, or summer, it runs quick­ly to flower. The seed must be slightly covered, and the leaves gathered for use while young, cutting it down like parsley, (which it resembles) it springs up again.

CIVES are small bulbs, and a sort of mild perennial onion, the leaves of which are cut for sallads, and cu­linary purposes, at the spring, before onions come in. As the bulbs increase fast, some of them may be slipped from the rooted clusters, and used as onions. They are propagated in autumn, or early in the spring, by planting five or six of the little bulbs in a hole, an inch deep, and eight asunder.

CLARY (the common garden) ranks as a medicinal herb, but it is used also in soups, and is very odorous. Sow it in spring, and when two or three inches high, prick the plants out fifteen or eighteen inches asunder, [Page 255] or thin them to this distance. It is biennial, and there­fore must be sown every year as parsley is. There are sorts of this plant cultivated for their ornamental flowers. See biennials.

CORIANDER is occasionally used in soups and sal­lads, for its peculiar high flavour; but it has been mostly propagated for medicinal purposes, which its seeds are used in. For culinary uses, sow it in April, and once a month, or oftener, afterwards, in drills six inches asunder, to have a succession of young plants; and make a principal sowing in August or September, on a warm border. Cover some of it with a frame, or it will die in hard weather, as it is a tender plant. If wanted early in the year, sow on a hot bed, in Feb­ruary or March; or in this last month under hand-glasses.

CORN SALLAD or (lamb's lettuce) is a small, warm, wholesome, hardy herb, and for winter and spring use should be sown in August and September, and again in February and March, and once a month all summer, for it is to be eat quite young. The plants should grow about three inches distance.

CRESS, there are three sorts of, plain, curled, and broad leaved; the former of which is much used as a sallad herb, with mustard, rape, radish, &c. The curled and broad leaved sorts should be thinned to half an inch asunder: but the plain is to be sown thick. The curled makes a pretty gurnish. In the cold months this sallad herb (as others) is sown on gentle hot beds, giving plenty of air; and as the spring gets up, on warm borders, or under hand-glasses. The London market gardeners sow it just within the glasses which cover their cauliflower plants, &c. In summer it should be sown in shady cool ground, and daily wa­tered; or it may be sown in the most sunny situation, if hooped over, and shaded with a mat. Break the mould fine, and draw level shallow drills, and cover only a quarter of an inch. It may, however [...] [Page 256] at broad cast, the ground being first raked very smooth, and the seed just covered with fine sifted mould. Let it be sown (upon an average) once a week, and cut young. It that which is sown in open ground, at an early season, be covered with a mat, it will forward the germination. The American cress is much like water cress, only of a more strong bitter flavour. It answers well as a winter and early spring sallad, being sown in August, at broad cast, or rather thin in drills. The plants being cut, or the outside leaves pulled off, shoot again.

DILL is a very stomachic herb, whose leaves and seed vessels are put among vegetable pickles, particular­ly cucumbers, to heighten their relish. The stem, leaves, and seed, are also used in medicine. The leaves are sometimes used in soups and sauces. Sow it either in autumn, or early in the spring, at broad cast, or in drills, a foot asunder, thinning the plants to about eight inches. It sows itself freely, and comes up at spring.

FENNEL (the common sort) is an hardy perennial herb, of the same family as dill, the uses of which are well known. It may be sown either in spring or au­tumn, and the plants ought to be kept near half a yard asunder; or it may be propagated by slips from the roots of old plants. It should be constantly cut down to prevent seeding, which would cover the ground in a very troublesome degree. Sweet fennel is an annual, cultivated for its seeds in medicine.

FINOCHIO is a sort of dwarf fennel, very aromatic; the thick stalks of which, earthed up, when nearly full grown, five or six inches to blanch, are used in soups and sallads, or sliced, and eat alone with oil, vinegar, &c. Sow it thick in March, in drills, about two feet asunder, and repeat the sowing every month till July, as it pres­ently runs for seed. Thin the plants to seven or eight inches. It likes a dry soil, and in a warm situation some may be sown in February; the last crop in June [Page 257] must be in a like situation, and will not be ready before winter. It takes a fortnight or three weeks to blanch.

HYSSOP is used sometimes in a culinary, but more in a medicinal way. There are white, blue, and red flowered sorts of it: but the blue spiked is that com­monly cultivated. The parts for culinary purposes are the leaves, and young shoots; and the flower spikes are cut, dried, and preserved medical uses. As hyssop is a woody evergreen perennial herb, growing little more than a foot high, it may be planted for an edging of the kitchen garden. It is propagated by seed, and rooted slips in March, by cuttings in April, or young slips in June or July. A poor dry, or sandy soil suits it. The plants may be nine inches, or a foot asunder as an edging, but should be near two feet from one another in a bed, as they soon get large.

LAVENDER (that sort commonly cultivated) is, for its pleasant aromatic scent, found in most gardens, and makes a neat perennial edging in large ones. It is propagated by cuttings, or young slips, in April and May, set a few inches asunder, in a shady situation, and good soil; and when rooted, planted out where they are to grow. The slips should be occasionally watered, and as a mat would cover a great many, might be shaded when the sun is hot upon them, for a fortnight or three weeks, to forward their rooting. But though raised in a good soil, lavender likes a poor and dry one best to abide in. Set the plants at a foot distance from one another. In a rich moist soil, they are apt to die in the winter, but in a dry hungry one, they rarely do. This is the case with all plants, that the more luxuriantly they grow, the more likely they are to be cut off by severe weather.

MARIGOLD has its varieties, and some sorts bear very fine double flowers, but the common single kind is best as a pot herb, being most aromatic. All single flowers are preferable to the double of the same kind for medicinal, or other uses, as being of a higher flavour, [Page 258] or stronger essence. Sow marigolds in spring, and let plants of the single sort stand a foot asunder, but the large double wider. They will grow in any soil, and are in flower most part of the year. The time of gathering them for drying is towards autumn, when they are most plentiful. Take care that they are not put up in their paper bags raw, or damp, and keep them in a very dry place. This flower is a valuable ingredient in broths and soups, however it may have got into disuse. It sows itself abundantly, and will bear transplanting about May, so that there will sel­dom be occasion to sow.

MARJORAM is distinguished into pot, winter, and knotted sorts; the two former perennial, and the last annual. They are all occasionally used for culinary purposes, but the knotted is chiefly cultivated as a sweet companion of our flowers. The propagation of it is by parting the roots of the perennial sorts in autumn or spring, and by sowing the annual kind in March or April, on a warm border, and light or dry soil. The annual sort should stand at six inches distance, and the perennial at nine or ten. These (and all) herbs are to be cut for drying just as they get in bloom. The knotted sort, it planted in pots, and housed, may be preserved in the winter, cutting down the flower stems. This kind is sometimes used for medicinal pur­poses, and should be drawn up by the roots, for drying in the shade; or at least with but little sun.

MINT is a salutary herb, of which we have two sorts, the spear and the pepper; the former for culinary, and the latter for medicinal purposes. There is a little variety in the spear, as broader and narrower leaved, and also variegated sorts, white and yellow, but these are considered only as ornamental.

Mint is propagated by pieces of its roots, or rooted slips, in the spring, set an inch or two deep, and eight asunder, on beds four feet wide. Cuttings will quickly strike root in any of the summer months. It delights [Page 259] in a moist soil, and new plantations of it (particularly cuttings) should be well watered in a dry time. Mint is to be had young all winter, and early in spring, by means of a gentle hot bed, on which it should be set pretty close. Or it may be conveniently planted in pots, and placed in any bed, and so shifted from one to another, if occasion. Cut mint for drying just as it gets in flower, spread it in the shade, and do not let this, or other herbs, be badly dried, or preserved, as is too common a case. For present use, mint should be properly gathered, using only the young leaves and shoots.

MUSTARD is much used as a sallad herb, gathered quite young, and the white is the garden sort, the black being cultivated in fields, for its seeds to make flour of. It is managed as cress, which see.

NASTURTIAM, there is a greater and less sort of, both cultivated for their unripe berries to pickle, their flowers for sallad, and garnish, and as a garden orna­ment; but the large is chiefly cultivated for culinary purposes. Being climbers they should have something to lay hold of as an arbour, or brush wood. They are of free growth, and flower abundantly for a long time, even till the frost comes. Sow an inch deep, in drills, in a light soil, and warm situation, in April, or sooner, if on a gentle heat, to forward them. It is best to sow in a few small pots, holding each two plants, from which they may be turned out whole (be­fore they get too big) in May; though sometimes they transplant without earth, about the roots, very well. Give them plenty of air while under cover, or they will be drawn up weak. A fresh, but poor, soil, is better than a rich one, which would make them too rampant, and less fruitful.

The double nasturtium is considered merely as a fine flower, but they are a beautiful garnish. It grows from cuttings: Plant these in pots, in June, and place them on a little heat, and they will soon take root. Or if [Page 260] the pots are plunged in a warm border, and covered close with a hand-glass, it may be sufficient. Gently water them, when the mould gets quite dry. This plant is tender, and will hardly survive the winter in a good green house, but must be put in a stove. In open ground, however, it flourishes all summer, flowering most in a poor soil.

PARSLEY we have a plain and a curled kind of; and though the former is mostly used, yet the latter is equally proper as a pot herb, and is much admired for its leaves as a garnish. This sort cannot be mistaken for hemlock, as the plain sometimes has been. There is more essence in an equal quantity of the plain, than of the curled; but it is only using rather more of the latter, which if not suffered to seed, will stand three years. To produce the curled sort very fine, the plants should be thinned to three or four inches asun­der; and it may be sown either at broad cast, or in drills, about nine inches asunder, as the common sort is. Parsley may be sown early in autumn, to have it young for the winter and spring; but the usual time is early in spring, and one sowing may be sufficient for the year, cutting it down often enough to get rid of the old, and young will spring up. Cutting down parsley should never be omitted in autumn, that it may be had good through the winter and spring. This herb will bear transplanting. For Hamburgh parsley, see parsley in the last section.

PENNY-ROYAL is a pot and medicinal herb of the mint species. There is an upright and a trailing sort of it; but the latter is that chiefly used: This is prop­agated by rooted branches, of which it affords plenty, as it spreads fast; and it will grow in the summer months from slips, or cuttings. Set them a foot asun­der in spring or autumn, and in a strong moist soil, it will most flourish. If, however, it is suffered to mat thick, it is apt to rot. As this herb is often wanted in winter, let it have somewhat sheltered situation: it is [Page 261] aptly enough called by some pudding-grass. If cut for preserving in winter, the time of flowering must be observed, and it must be very carefully dried, as it is apt to mould.

PURSLAIN is a low growing succulent herb, of a cold and tender nature, used chiefly in summer sallads, but sometimes for culinary purposes. The sorts are the green and golden, but the former is preferred. It will not succeed in the open ground till May, and then it must have a warm border. In March, or April, it is sown on a gentle heat; for which purpose the lining of a hot bed may do. Cover the seed in drills, four inches apart, cover a quarter of an inch, and let the soil be light and rich. In dry weather, water it twice or thrice a week. The end of the young shoots only are used, and when cut down it springs again. It is usual to sow it three or four times in the summer, in cooler places, as the weather gets dry and hot.

RAPE, or coleseed, is sown for a sallad herb, to be eat while in the seed leaf, with mustard the cress; and is to be treated as they are; it is stomachic, and some persons are fond of it when boiled.

RAMPION is a sallad root, in but little request. Sow it thin in April and May, and leave the plants at four or five inches distance, for autumn and winter use: Draw it young.

ROCAMBOLE is a root much like garlick, producing small bulbs at head, as well as root; is chiefly medicinal. The cloves may be planted in autumn or spring, two inches deep, and four asunder. In June tie the leaves in knots, to prevent their spindling for seed, and to swell their bulbs. When the leaf decays, take them up, and preserve them dry. It is sometimes used as a mild substitute for garlick.

ROSEMARY we have the varieties, as plain, silver, and gold striped. The plain is a useful medicinal herb, which should be found in every garden. It is propa­gated by suckers, layers, slips or cuttings, in the spring, [Page 262] setting the two last where they have not much sun; and when rooted, towards autumn, or in the follow­ing spring, allot the young plants a station rather warm, and sheltered, as rosemary is apt to suffer, or die, in severe winters, especially the variegated.

RUE is a medicinal plant, propagated in spring, by seed, slips, or cuttings. It stands many years, but should be prevented seeding, and pruned down occa­sionally, to keep it in a neat bushy trim, of moderate height, and strong growth.

SAGE there are several sorts of, but the common red is that used chiefly for culinary purposes, and the green both for these, and medicinally for tea, &c. There is a narrow leaved green sort, called tea sage, or sage of virtue; but the broad leaved green is reck­oned by some to be better, not being so heating, and unpleasant to the taste. The variegated sorts of sage are only considered as ornaments in the flower garden or shrubbery. Sage is propagated by slips or cuttings of the last year's shoots, in April or May, chusing those that are short and strong; or of the young shoots in the early part of summer, set in to an inch from the top, and about four inches distance, in some shady place. These, if they spindle tall in the summer, should be pinched down to about three inches, in order to form bushy heads. They will be well rooted in August, when they should be planted a foot asunder, in a sunny and sheltered situation, from the N. and E. that they may stand severe winters, which they will the better do, if the soil is rather poor than rich.

SAMPHIRE is by some greatly esteemed for a pickle, using its leaves, which are sometimes added to sallads, and occasionally used medicinally. It is perennial, and propagated by parting its roots, or by seed sown in spring. It likes a cool situation, but yet prefers a sandy, or a gravelly soil: Let it have plenty of water. Some have found it to do best in pots.

[Page 263] SAVORY, we have a summer and winter kind of; the former is annual, and the latter perennial; and both are used as medicinal and culinary herbs, but the summer sort is that mostly cultivated for medicine. The annual is propagated from seed in March or April, sown thin and shallow, in drills, eight or nine inches asunder. The perennial is sometimes propagated from seed, but more usually from rooted slips, or cuttings from the top, in spring, as also from side slips. The annual sort should grow at six inches distance in the drills, and the perennial be allowed a foot. Summer savory, gathered for drying, is best drawn up by the roots.

SMALLAGE is a sort of wild parsley, found in moist places, and was formerly much cultivated in gardens, and used in soups and sallads, and medicine, as a warm herb. Sow it in spring as parsley.

SCURVY GRASS (the Dutch, or round leaved) is sometimes cultivated in gardens, for its excellent medi­cinal properties. Sow it in autumn, or spring, but best early in the former. Though it will grow in any soil, it should have a moist one.

SORREL is an acid, perennial plant, much relished by some as a sallad, often used as a pot herb, and some­times as a medicinal one: Though found common enough in the fields, it is much improved by garden culture. The round leaved sort, commonly called the Roman, is reckoned the more grateful acid, and in­creases in the ground apace. Sorrel is generally prop­agated by parting is roots, either in spring or autumn, and if propagated from seed, (which produces the finest plants) it should be sown in March. The plants of the common sorrel should be six or eight inches asun­der, and the other a foot, or fifteen inches. Sorrel likes a cool moist soil, but the round a dry one.

SUCCORY, see endive, in the last section.

TANSEY is a culinary and medicinal herb, of which, [...]esides the common, there are curled leaved, and varie­gated sorts; but the former only is proper to be used [Page 264] medicinally. It is perennial, and propagated by rooted slips, in spring or autumn, set at eighteen inches dis­tance, in beds, four feet and a half wide; and will grow in any soil, or situation.

TARRAGON is a perennial pot and sallad herb, which was formerly much admired for its peculiar high warm flavour. It is propagated sometimes from seed, but mostly by rooted, or other slips, set in spring or autumn, at six or eight inches distance, and may be by cuttings in the summer months. The shoots die down towards winter, but the roots are hardy, and increase apace. If wanted in winter, it may be dried as other herbs are, or forced as mint, in order to have it green. When the stems begin to run, cut them down, in order to produce young shoots, for the ten­der tops only are to be used; and that not too freely, as it is an herb that heats much.

THYME is a pot herb, of which there are commonly cultivated a broad, and a narrow leaved sort, but the former mostly. There is a sort called lemon, thyme, that is admired for its flavour, and another called silver thyme, which, with the striped, are considered rather as an herb merely ornamental. It is best to raise the common sorts from seed, though root branches, on ac­count of their trailing nature, may be usually had from old plants. Slips will grow, if set in a light rich soil, in a shady situation. Loosening the earth under, and drawing it up about old plants one year, will produce plenty of rooted branches the next. The plants should grow at six or eight inches distance. If propagated from seed, let it be sown thin in March, and covered lightly. Slips are best made in April. This herb makes a neat edging when planted close, but it is a great impoverisher of the ground.

TOMATUM, or love apples, we have red, white, and yellow fruited; and of the red and yellow, a cherry-shaped sort. The first, or larger red, is that commonly cultivated, and it serves for an ornament in the garden, [Page 265] as well as of use for the table, in a pickle made of the green fruit, and when red in soups, &c. It is also sometimes pickled when red, (i. e. ripe.) At the end of March, or beginning of April, it must be sown in a moderate hot bed; and being soon thinned, let the plants grow two or three inches high, and be pricked in small pots, to turn into the cold ground towards the end of May; or if not long and weak, keep them under cover a little longer. Give them a sunny situa­tion against a wall, for regular and timely training, or support them by slicks. They take up much room, and it rows should be three yards asunder. If planted out upon holes of hot dung, it would help their speedy rooting, and forward them much for ripening their fruit, which in bad seasons they sometimes fail in. They require much water in dry weather.

WORMWOOD is a useful medicinal herb; and com­mon as it is in many places, in others it is not to be met with wild. Besides the common, there is Roman wormwood, both efficacious; some preferring the one, some the other. They are commonly raised from slips and cuttings, in any of the summer months, or from seed sowm in spring.

SECTION XVII.
OF FRUITS.

THERE is a variety (and of some a great one) of each kind of fruit, and the difference of tastes makes it impossible to pronounce upon their particular merits. A sort that is deemed bad by one, may be thought good by another; and thus nurseruymen go on to propagate fruit that are generally esteemed bad, because sometimes called for. With respect to fruit, there are provinical prejudices in favour of some, and of apples in particular; so that in one country, a sort shall be generally known and admired, and in another, not be heard of.

In assisting the young gardener in his choice of the principal fruits, only a few sorts will therefore be named; such as have obtained almost an universal credit. It would be well if the number of some kinds were reduced; for their multiplicity occasions a great uncertainly, and their shades of distinction are hardly discovered by the best judges: The nursermens' cata­logues will furnish larger lists.

Of the same sort of fruit there is often a perceptable difference, owing either jointly or separately to the stock, state of the tree, soil, situation, management and season. Bad planting, by cramping the roots, &c. will often induce sickliness, and of course a good plant made to produce small, ill flavoured fruit, and thus it will appear to be not itself. So that when the best method is taken to procure good fruit, (i. e. such that please us) which is by graffing, or inoculating from [Page 267] the very tree we have admired the fruit of, our expec­tations may, in a measure, be disappointed by a variety of circumstances.

NURSERYMEN, it is often said, are not to be de­pended upon, for if they have not the sort you want, they will send you one they have; and this may some­times be the case, as they may think it of little con­sequence if you have one that is good. But the case is, there is a great confusion in the names of fruit, by accident, ignorance, carelessness, &c. New titles have been arbitrarily imposed on old fruits that have hap­pened to vary a little; and distinctions made without a difference, of which circumstance Mr. Evelyn com­plained in his day, saying, "The discriminating the several kinds of fruit, by their characteristical notes, from the leaf, taste, colour, and other distinguishing properties, is much wanting." But as Mr. E. observes, the ability for this, is only attained by long and critical observation. In order to settle this business, Mr. Miller announced, (1733) that a society of gardeners were preparing descriptions of each sort of fruit tree, with plates coloured from Nature, which containing all the specific differences of the manner of the wood, in shooting, and leafing, &c. with the appearance of the flowers and fruit, as to size, shape and shades of colour, would, no doubt, have been a valuable work. Dr. Hill (in his Eden, folio) professes to have given great assistance in this matter. "Under the section of fruits (says he) we shall give their proper names and descriptions, by which every one will know by what names to call those he fees."

Disappointment frequently originates with the pur­chaser, who having met with a fruit to his mind, inquires the name, and is told a wrong one, and that, perhaps, of a bad sort; the nurserymen then complying with his order, is blamed. A reduction of the number of sorts, to those in which there is an evident difference, and more care on the part of those who raise, and [Page 268] those who buy trees, in all respects; and particularly that of preserving the true name seems necessary, there­fore, in the affair of fruit trees.

On this subject, it may be observed, that the fruit of even the same tree is not always alike, owing to the season, as that growing in a cold, wet, and shady sum­mer, will be inferior to the production of a fair and sunny one; though very hot and dry weather does not suit, and will make a difference in another way.

The choice of fruit trees should be somewhat govern­ed by soil and situation; (which has been observed) for that fruit which succeeds in one, will not in another. Later fruit may be planted in light soils than in strong ones. Some sorts grow finest in a cool, others in a warm soil, and some situations are too bleak, either for early or late fruit, though the aspect, and all other circumstances may be good. In planting fruit trees, particularly those of the wall, much discretion is neces­sary, that disappointment may (if possible) be avoided.

As fruit trees are so readily purchased, few people care to raise them; but those who may be disposed this way, will find instructions in the sections nursery and graffing. The purchaser must attend carefully to the planting, for which work directions have been given in the sections of the formation of a garden, and that on planting. For the training and pruning of fruit trees, ample rules are laid down in the section On pruning; so that nothing need be said of their cultiva­tion here, making proper references.

APPLES, as the most useful fruit, it will be proper to provide as many of as there may possibly be found due room and occasion for; taking all care to procure good sorts of the two kinds, for eating raw, and dressed; and to have a proper assortment of the summer, autumn, and winter fruits.

For the first season, jenneting, common codlin, mar­garet apple, and summer pearmain. Second, Golden pippin, Holland pippin, golden rennet, white calville, [Page 269] and Kentish codlin. Third, Nonpareil, golden russel, Wheeler's russet, winter pearmain, Kentish pippin, rib­stone pippin, margille, Norfolk beefing, and the John apple. There are, no doubt, other apples very good; but, perhaps, these have as much merit as any. With respect to raising, planting, pruning, &c. see pages 31, 36, 37, 71, 74, 86, 105, 161, 165.

The gathering of apples, and other fruit from stand­ards, is often badly performed, damaging the branches, and breaking the spurs off; let this business, therefore, be properly attended to, particularly in young trees of good sorts. Take care not to pinch, or bruise, fruit in gathering.

As to the keeping of apples, those which continue long for use, should be suffered to hang late, even to November, if the frosts will permit, for they must be well ripened, or they will shrink. Lay them on heaps till they have sweated a few days, when they must be wiped dry. Let them then lay singly for about a fort­night, and be again wiped, and immediately packed in boxes and hampers, lined with double or treble sheets of paper. Place them gently in, and cover close, so as to keep air out as much as possible. Preserve them from frost through the winter.

The fruiterers in London preserve their apples in stiff upright baskets, that hold about two bushels; laying very dry straw over all, and thickly in severe weather.

Some of the choicest table sorts of apples may be treated as directed for the best pears.

The baking apples need not be packed, but either kept singly on the floor, or shelves, or in heaps covered over, when they have sweated a few days longer than the others, and have been wined dry; yet these, if packed, will certainly stand a better chance of keeping the longer.

APRICOT is a fruit something between a plum and a peach, partaking of a middle nature, both in growth and taste.

[Page 270] The early masculine, Brussels, orange, Turkey, Breda, and Moor-park or Anson, are the common and best wall sorts; but the Turkey and the Moor-park, though excellent fruits, are idle uncertain bearers. The Dun­more Breda (a modern fruit) is said to be excellent; ripe in September.

Gather apricots a little before ripe, or they will lose that smartness which is so agreeable. With respect to thinning the trees of young fruit, when too full, see page 150. Particulars as to raising, planting, &c. see pages 30, 38, 72, 105, 108, 132, &c.

BERBERRY is a pretty fruit, useful as a preserve and garnish; a handsome shrub, which makes a profitable, and also useful hedge, for by reason of its thorns it is almost impregnable.

Besides the common red, there is a stoneless red, a white and a black fruited kind. Of raising this shrub, &c. see pages 77, 170.

CORNEL; i. e. Cornelian cherry. The fruit used to be by many preserved to make tarts, and a medicinal preparation was also made of it, called rob de cornis. See cherry in list of shrubs.

CHERRY: The sorts may be the early May, May-duke,(ripe in June) white, red, and black heart, bleed­ing, heart, Turkey, tradescants, and morella.

In gathering cherries take care not to pull the fruit spur off, which is a very common thing. If they are properly ripe, they will part so easy from the tree, as not to do this mischief. See pages 31, 37, 86, 92, 105, 162, 165, 168.

CHESNUT is not a garden fruit, but the manured, or Spanish sort, in an open situation, produces good nuts about Michaelmas, and may be kept good all winter, if covered close from the air. See page 76.

CURRANT, we have in common cultivation, a small red and white, with a larger of each, called Dutch cur­rants, the champaigne, or pale red sort, and the black. [Page 271] There are currant trees with variegated leaves, and a sort with a gooseberry leaf. See pages 31, 32, 38, 77, 109, 164, 168.

FIG is a fruit "esteemed by all delicate palates amongst the richest sorts of fruits; though few vulgar tastes care for it." The sorts that are mostly planted without doors in England, are the common large blue, early dwarf blue, early dwarf white, and large white. The first kind is the hardiest, though they do not al­ways ripen well with us abroad. See pages, 30, 75, 105, 108, 156, &c.

FILBERD, we have a white and red sort of, and the latter judged most agreeable in flavour. The nuts are the Spanish, cob, and hazel. The first is a large nut with a thin shell, and the second is a large one with a thick shell, but both are good. See pages 37, 72, 77, 163.

GOOSEBERRY, there are many sorts of, arising from their propagation by seed, differing in their time of coming in, size, colour, &c. The large sorts of gooseberries (weighing from ten to fifteen penny-weights) have been much run upon, yet there are [...]mall ones better tasted. The names at least of the sorts are numerous, (above 200) but those that have been long commonly cultivated are, the early black, small early red, smooth green, hairy green, common and large white, hairy and smooth red, ironmonger, Cham­paigne, yellow, amber, and tawney. See pages 31, 32, 38, 77, 109, 164, 168.

GRAPE. The vine should never be planted, but in a very warm situation, free of all shade, from the rising to the setting sun, or at least nearly so.

The only sorts likely to fruit well in open culture, are the black July, white and black sweet water, black, [...]uscadine, and black claster. When grapes are ripe, they are transparent. See pages 31, 76, 105, to 108, 452, &c.

[Page 272] MEDLAR, there is an apple, and pear shaped sort of, but this fruit is little cultivated, less liked, and not good till rotten ripe. The sorts are the German, the Italian, and the English, or Nottingham medlar. Gather at the beginning of November, lay some on straw, and cover with straw; and others (to forward their ripen­ing) put in a box, on a two inch layer of fresh bran, moistened well with soft warm water; then strew bran between them, and cover two inches thick, which moisten also, but not so wet as before: Proceed thus, layer upon layer; and a week, ten days, or a fortnight, will do the business.

The chief value of the medlar (as also of the service) is its late coming in for table use, when there is little other fruit to be had.

MULBERRY, there is a black, a white, and a red sort of; but the former is the one generally cultivated for fruit, being much the best. The white sort of mulberry is that cultivated for feeding silk worms. The red sort is the common mulberry of Virginia, hardy, and succeeds here.

The mulberry tree should have a grass plat under­neath it for the fruit to fall on, for those thus picked up will be superior to what may be gathered. See pages 32, 37, 75, 161.

NECTARINE is much like the peach in all respects, only that it is smaller, it has a smooth skin, and firmer flesh. The Newington, red Roman, temple, and murry, and good sorts, to which the curious, in a good situa­tion, may add the early nutmeg, and the late green or Peterborough nectarine.

In gathering nectarines and peaches, never pinch them to try whether they are ripe; for if they are so, the touch will discover it, and when thorough ripe (as they should be) they will come from the tree with ease. See pages 30, 31, 72, 92, 105, 108, 132, to [...]52.

[Page 273] PEACH is a more useful fruit than the nectarine, being larger, more juicy, and succeeding better in general, as to bearing and ripening. There is a great variety of peaches under cultivation in England, but on the Continent the number is much greater. The following may be recommended: The early Ann, early Newington, early purple, the red and white Magdalens, the great and small mignens, noblesse, admirable, and old Newington.

Peaches cannot be too ripe,(see nectarine) so that those which drop are by many reckoned the best; and those whose flesh adheres to the stone (called pavies) are by some thought the more delicious. See pages 30, 72, 92, 105, 108, 132, to 152.

PEAR, there is a great variety of, and they are classed into summer autumn, and winter fruits. The summer sorts may be the green chissel, Catharine, Jar­gonelle, and summer Bonchretian. The autumn, brown buerrè, swan's egg, bergamot, and dean pear, or St. Michael. The winter St. Germain, cresan, winter bon­chretian, colmar, and chaumontelle. These all come in for eating regularly, the first in July, and the last con­tinues on to June. Baking pears, Parkinson's warden, the union, or Uuedales St. German, cadillac and black pear of Worcester, good to Midsummer.

Gather pears of the summer sorts rather before they are ripe, as when thoroughly so they eat meally, and will not keep well above a day or two; even when gathered as they ought to be, in a week, or less, they will begin to go at the core: They should not, how­ever, be gathered, while they require much force to pull them off. Autumn pears must also not be full ripe at the time of gathering, though they will keep longer than those of the summer. Winter pears, on the contrary, should hand as long on the trees as they may, so as to escape frost, which would make them flat in flavour, and not keep well. Generally they may hang to the middle of October on full standards, [Page 274] a week longer on dwarfs, and to the end of the month on walls; but yet not after they are ripe.

The art of gathering, is to give them a lift, so as to press away the stalk, and if ripe they readily part from the tree. Those that will not come off easy, should hang a little longer; for when they come hardly off, they will not be so sit to store, and the violence done at the foot stalk may injure the bud there formed for next year's fruit.

Let the pears be quite dry when pulled, and in hand­ling avoid pinching the fruit, or in any way (in the least) bruising it, as those which are hurt, not only de­cay themselves, but presently spread infection to those near them: When suspected to be bruised, let them be carefully kept from others, and used first. Gather in shallow baskets, and lay them in gently.

House pears in a dry airy room, at first thinly for a few days, and then put them in heaps to sweat; in order to which, a blanket thrown over them will help. The fermentation must be watched, and when it seems to have passed the height of sweating, wipe the fruit quite dry with fine flannel, or clean soft linen, and store them.

The storing is thus: Those to be used first, lay be singly on shelves, or on the floor, in a dry southern room, on clean dry moss, or sweet dry straw, so as not to touch one another. Some, or all the rest, may be stored as directed for apples; for they will th [...] keep very well, having first laid a fortnight singly, and then nicely culled. But the most superior way is, to pack in large earthen, or China jars, with very dry long moss at the bottom, sides, and also between them, if it might be. Press a coat of moss on the top, and then stop the mouth close with cork, or otherwise, which should be rosined over, with about a twentieth part of bees wax in it. As the object is effectually [...] air, (the cause of putrefaction) the ja [...] [...] [...]arthen, [Page 275] may be set on dry sand, which put also between, round, and over them, to a foot thick on the top. In all close storing, observe, there should be no doubt of the soundness of the fruit. Guard in time from frost those that lie open. Jars of fruit must be soon used after unsealing, as the air would presently affect it to­wards decay.

PLUM, of the many sorts the following are good: Green and blue gage, Fortheringham, white and blue per­drigon, drop d'or, la roche Corbon, la royal, and St. Cath­arine. The imperial, or red magnum bonum, and white magnum white, are chiefly used in tarts, and for sweet­meats, as is the Wentworth. The early white primor­dian (not a choice fruit) is valuable for its coming in the beginning of July; and the imperatrice for not coming in till October. The bullace plum, black and white, are good for tarts, late in the season, and make a fine acid preserve. See pages, 31, 37, 75, 86, 92, 105, 163, 165.

QUINCE, we have the common apple, and pear shaped, and Portugal pear shaped. This fruit cannot be eat raw, but for marmalade, and baked in pies, &c. the housewife finds it useful. The Portugal sort is mostly reckoned best. Quinces may hang till November. The ripe ones only are of value, which after sweating a few days, must be laid singly (at some distance from one another) on a shelf. See pages 37, 75, 105.

RASPBERRY, the kinds are red and white, and of each a twice bearing sort, i. e. producing fruit in sum­mer and autumn, Of the red there is a prickly wooded sort, and a smooth one, sometimes called the Cane, and reed raspberry; and a large sort, called the Antwerp, of a yellow white.

Gather this fruit carefully, lay no great quantity together, and do it but a little time before wanted, as raspberries [...]ntly lose flavour, and tend to decay. [...] 38, 55, 78, 109, 169.

[Page 276] SERVICE, or sob apple, is rarely cultivated here, as it requires a warmer climate than England to ripen its fruit; though, in fact, it never ripens on the tree. It is gathered late in autumn, in a very austere state, and laid by on straw to decay, when it becomes sweet and very agreeable in a month or six weeks. The trees are hardy, and the curious often plant them, for the singularity of their leaves and fruit. There are three sorts of the service, the wild, the pear, and the medlar, to which fruit they are very like.

STRAWBERRY: Of this fine flavoured fruit, beau­tiful and fragrant, we have the following sorts: Red, white, and green wood, and red and white Alpine, scarlet, Carolina, hautboy, red and green pine-apple, and Chili, of sorts, with some seminal varieties, as several of the hautboy, and one in particular of the Carolina, called the pink-fleshed strawberry. There is also a strawberry with one leaf, a variety of the wood and prolific.

Gather strawberries regularly as fast as they ripen, with a bit of their stalk, and never lay many together to press upon one another. The fresher the finer [...]ating, for this fruit, as the raspberry, is very bad when stale. See pages 39, 51, 55, 78, 114, 170.

WALNUT, there are several sorts of, as early and late, small and large, thick and thin shelled, &c. Two only need be named, the early oval thin shelled, and the Common round, or royal walnut. All the others seem to be only seminal variations from the last, which is justly reckoned the best fruit. Those planted for fruit may have the tap root shortened, and be from seven to ten year's old first, as they seldom bear till about twenty years of age. See pages 77, 105.

SECTION XVIII.
OF FLOWERS.

FLOWERS, as to their cultivation, are classed into annuals, biennials and perennials. Annuals are those that are sown, flower and die, within a year. Biennials are those that are sown one year, and flower and die the next. Perennials are those [...]at do not flower the year they are sown, but the next, and con­tinue to live years afterwards, some fewer, some more: Of this class there is a great variety, (perhaps fifty to one of the last) mostly fibrous rooted, some fleshy, some bulbous, and some tuberous, &c. Most of the perennials are annual in their stalks, which die down to the ground in winter, and fresh shoots rise in the spring. But strictly speaking, all of each class are not annual, biennial, and perennial; for some of the annuals come a second, or a third year, as Chinese holyhock, and Indian pink, and others would live through the winter if housed. Of the biennials, the same may be said of the stock July flower, sweet William, and wall flower; only these plants do not always live, and will not come so neat and strong as before, and are there­fore to be sown, or propagated, as they are classed, in order to have a certain and fine blow. Of the peren­nials, some do not flower well above three or four years, as the holyhock, &c. for which a sowing should of course take place the year before they are wanted. See pages 41, 42, 56, 57, 60, 65, 66, 67, 70, 113.

SECTION XIX.
LISTS OF TREES, SHRUBS AND FLOWERS.

*⁎* The names of the choicest sorts of fruit trees, will be found in section 17.

THE modes of cultivation are here directed by the letters, as in last section; adding m. for moist, w. for wet, and d. for dry. Those not marked are to be understood as (pretty much) indifferent as to soil, [Page 25] and indeed those marked otherwise may grow in a contrary kind, and often do, though not so flourish­ingly.

The time of flowering is annexed to those trees and shrubs that are thus at all ornamental, and the more ordinary heights they are found to attain are denoted in the arrangement; a circumstance hitherto much wanted, as useful and necessary to be known, in order to a right disposal of them. Those of a naturally low growth have been, sometimes, planted behind in shrub­beries, &c. and the taller forward; but yet this unfor­tunate circumstance must be unavoidable to every in­experienced planter, who has no other guide, than that this is a tree, and that is a shrub, &c.

The colours of the flowers are mentioned when op­portunity permitted, as agreeable to be known, and of use in the disposal of them at planting, to diversify the scene properly.

Such observations, as may be thought most useful and necessary, will follow each list; but as neither all the sorts nor the varieties of each sort, could be enu­merated in such a work as this, so also the minutioe of propagation, &c. is more than could be comprehended, or expected: Folio volumes (so copious is the subject) have left a variety of plants unnoticed, and much un­said respecting cultivation. For ordinary use, a greater enumeration, or more enlarged particulars, would (in­deed) have made the book less valuable. If the selection and information is good, (and pains have been taken in the business) those for whom this book is designed, will have no reason to complain.

The names of trees, shrubs and flowers, are in many cases various, as sometimes the scientific name pre­vails, and at other times the trivial; and of neither is there a perfect agreement. The object therefore here has been to give that name by which each is supposed to be best known. Different plants are often called by the same name, and a nice discrimination is made [Page 26] by botanists, according to leaf and flower; but these are no farther noticed than necessary; and such de­scriptions are given of each, as cannot (it is hoped) fail to identify the sort, when applied for to a nursery­man.

In the following lists of trees, the larger are marked with an asterism; and in the lists of shrubs and flowers, discrimination of size is made by figures, each being divided into four sorts, as to height; and the lowest marked No. 1. But it is ever to [...] understood, that the soil, and other circumstances will make a differ­ence, as to stature; so that the greater may become the less, and the less the greater.

Where et cetera (i. e. &c.) is affixed to sorts, it means that there are others; and where it is added to the time of flowering, it signifies of more than one month's duration. It is the nature of some things to keep in blow all the summer: to encourage which, dead flowers should always be speedily taken off, as they occur.