SHORT ACCOUNT OF A NORTHWEST VOYAGE, PERFORMED IN THE YEARS 1796, 1797 & 1798.
I SAILED from Boston, on board the India Packet, August 29th, 1796, with pleasant weather, winds N. E; stearing our course S. E. September 18th, on our course for Cape Horn the Southern extremity of South America; pleasant weather, light gales of wind attended with a little rain. October 11th.—Nothing material happened. Now have the N. E. Trades Fresh. October 5th.—Some little disturbance in the Ship as is Natural to suppose there being five different languages on board. I beginning to make a little proficiency in Navigation. Sunday October 25th.—In Lt. 6. S. stearing our course S. E. by S. we discovered those remarkable clouds called the Magalen clouds, supposed to take their name from being discovered by Magalen and, are actually about vertical with the Straits of Magalen. The number of these clouds are three and perhaps the greatest curiosity ever eye beheld. One of them is jet black the others white. Perhaps the curious reader will query about the truth of this relation. Hundreds are the number of we hardy Seamen, that have been eye witness of the same. To entertain the reader with a further description of these [Page 8]clouds. They revole round each other in their several orbits. Their appearance is always plain unless obstructed by a cloudy horrizon, and always in the same place except revolving. Sunday October 30th—Morning fair but soon found our horrizon obstucted by clouds, a melancholy scene to behold; there came on a gale of wind; finding ourselves in eminant danger of being foundered. As the gale increased we soon found our fore topmast about our cars, carried close down to the cap. In replacing the fore topmast we unfortunately lost our main top gallantmast. The reader will natural suppose our situation really distroying, and had it not been for the greatest exertion we must unavoidable perished. Saturday November 5th—All an entire calm nothing material to day. Sunday November 6th— Lt. 45,0. 58 m. S. very boisterous weather a great variety of birds, some surprising whales seen in those latitudes. November 20th—By observation we supposed ourselves not far distant from Cape Horn. In the Lt. 55 S. frequently seeing seals of an enormous size, and every kind of animal, natural to the South Seas. Thursday December 2d— and then discovered Cape Horn bearing N. from us. We had a very tedious time of it in geting up with the Cape; but now have very fine weather for this latitude. We find ourselves becalmed at this time, but soon have a breeze of wind and continue our course to the southward.
Dec. 9th—In Lt. 59,0. 30m. S. we discovered an astonishing Mountain of ice, that we found to be by our Quadrants four miles in height, and supposed to be twenty four in circumference. Among the curiosities in the South Sea this is considered one of the greatest. However incredible this may appear kind reader, yet history will confirm it. Catching some Albetrosses twenty feet from one wing to the other. One very remarkable thing in this latitude, is that the sun is to be seen nineteen hours out of twenty four, and plain day light continually. Sunday December 25th—Nothing particular occured. We have now shaped our course for the N. W. Coast of America which is N. N. W.
January 1st 1979.—By observation find ourselves in Lt. 25,0. 30m. S. nigh the Trophic Line. We now begin to think of prepairing ourselves for the N. W. Indians, where we intend to procure our furs. Distressing is our situation on account of bad provisions, by the neglect of the owners of [Page 9]the Ship, confined to three small biscuits per day, and three pints of water.—In this situation for three months, with a small allowance of beef.
Indulgent reader do not let me tire your patience, with unnecessary [...] for the want of good stile being bread without it, and but little chance for improvement. Saturday Jan. 14th.—We have now crossed the Equator and find ourselves in Lt. 6 N. In taking a great many sea Turtle are tolerably well furnished for provision. We suffered a great deal for the want of water; but this day have had a very fine shower of rain, which furnished us with a good supply. The sharks are surprisingly plenty in this latitude; some of them are so ravenous that while our beef is toing along side, which necessity requires they take it away net and all.
I have some occasion to complain of our Captain on the account of usage, his committing assault and battery on a number of the crew, is something I dont so well relish, but am not in a situation to seek my redress at present, but anxiously wait the arrival of the time, in which I will acquiant him that I took umbridge at it, and shall with the greatest propriety seek my redress.
Sunday January 21st.—Stearing N. W. by N. by observation found ourselves in Lt. 15 N. nothing meterial occurred. Saturday February 18th.—We are now in Lt. 49° 33 N. Being distressed with a terrible gale of wind, of course excited some alarm in us, for the seas run mountains high, and to appearance should have our ship covered, dashing and beating as if she would go to pieces every moment. Feel for us reader in this situation, what must the feelings within our breast be, expecting to go to the bottom every minute; but through divine assistance and a little of our own exertions we soon cleared ourselves of fear; got our sails all in, and our yards and mast down on deck. In this situation we remained about forty eight hours, and then the storm abated so that in a short time we found ourselves in our usual situation. Kind reader, I acknowledge we had great reason to thank Neptune the governor of the Seas.
Tuesday February 21st 1797.—We this morning had the good fortune to discover land, at 18 Leagues distance, and after three days sail up into Norfolk Sound and come to anchor, after being at Sea about six months. Norfolk Sound is in Lat. 58° 5 N. Long. not ascertained, but thought to be in about 129 E.
[Page 10] We soon was incompassed about with canoes with 20, some 30 Indians in each. Not lying but about a mile from the shore we had traffic enough.
After wooding, and watering, and repairing, we weighed our anchor and sailed for Mearses Bay, about 3° to the Southward; had very good success in trade, found furs plenty being the first ship on the Coast this season, purchased our furs advantageously, after lying at anchor about 20 days; set sail for Charlotte's Island, about 1° to the Southward; after arriving there was visited by a great number of canoes; but could not trade much on account of the boisterous weather; at our arrival at this place, we let go our anchor; but on account of the gales that are prevalent here, was obliged to heave it up, and make sail seven times in the space of 24 hours. We then thought best to sail for Skiticus still further to the Southward; the distance about 40 miles.
After arriving we came to anchor, and find here a large Village rather a Metropolis of this Nation, where we purchased three hundred skins.
Thursday March 16th.—We have had the good fortune to procure eleven hundered skins best prime. After setting sail from this, we shape our course for Norfolk Sound, on arriving in Norfolk Sound, we spoke the ship Dispatch, Capt. Bowers, from Boston, under way out of the Sound, all hands, in good spirits, excepting one sick with the scurvey, a disorder which I suffered much from. You may well conceive with what raptures we imbraced one another, they being the first christian people we have seen since we left Boston; the Dispatch being bound to Mearses Bay, we tacked ship, and went in company with them. On our arrival at the Bay, we found lying there, Capt. Trotter, in a brig from Providence, likewise the brig Hazzard from Boston, sloop Capt. Lay, master. We had no particular news from them, all were well. We here had good success in purchasing furs. Weighed anchor and set sail for Norfolk Sound, arriving there, we got a supply of wood and water, we then purchased a few furs.
The reader will not consider me to minute in mentioning so often our purchasing furs, as they were the only object of our Voyage, the number of skins purchased was 2200 and upwards.
The Natives of the N. W. part of this Country, are very much alike in their manners, they speak a number of languages; [Page 11]they are a hardy robust set of people, about a middle size, resembling our Indian very much, of a tawny complexion.
A short description of the animals may attract the attention of the reader.
- 1st. The sea animal, the Elephant about the size of a large ox, when full grown, utter a terrible roaring that at times will excite alarm in any human creature; principally of a vermilion color.
- 2d. The sea Lion, and sea Dog, are not much unlike except the Lion [...] the largest.
The fowl kind are extremely numerous such as Geese, Turkeys, Brants, Ducks, of every kind, the Eagle and Pelican, the largest of the feathered race, in these Northern and unexplored regions.
The sea Otter that valuable animal, eminant for its fine fur. In Cook's performances, these skins were sold in China for 100 Dollars per skin, but we sold them for 25 or 30.
May 31st 1797.—We set sail for China stearing S. S. W. with a fine breeze.
INDIA PACKET, June 30th, 1797.—We continue on our passage for China, with a brisk wind, stearing S. W. in Lat. 30 N. two of our men are taken with the scurvey, a disorder very common in such a voyage.
I. P. July 7th.—In Lat. 21 N. we lost our main and fore top mast, in a very heavy Squall of wind, we however, replaced them very soon.
I. P. July 24th.—In Lat. 14 N. L. 144° 30, seven of our crew have the scurvy, very bad, including our chief officer. We have been becalmed about 18 days; but have now a breeze of wind.
I. P. July 30th.—We had the fortune to discover the Island Tinnian, at 5 A. M. and got in with it at two P. M. We came to anchor and sent our boat on shore, with the sick to the number of seven; left them and brought of a fine Bullock, and five hundred oranges, a number of cocoanuts, and several hogs. The animals on this Island are entirely wild, were put on here by Anson, a Spaniard, in circumnavigating the Island Tinnian, is in Lat. 14° 8 N. W. Long. 145 with several adjacent Islands. Agragan, Sipan, &c.
Thursday July 16th.—This day we set sail for China, all in good spirits, a passage in which nothing material happened. After being in the red Sea a few days, and passing [Page 12]through the thousand Islands arrived at Macow. Macow is situated at the mouth of the river Ta, or yellow River. We there came to anchor; after setting sail for Canton we arrived in Wambo harbour in 48 hours, the distance being 85 miles, we there came to anchor after three months passage from the N. W. Coast of America.
Wambo harbour, September 1st 1797.—The trade of Wambo. As to the trade of this Country, it is rendered something difficult on account of their precarious dispositions being ever open and ready to accept of every advantage as robbing, pilfering, &c. &c. Their mode of worshiping is something very peculiar; they burn incense night and morning; continually offering up sacrifices to the Deity, or to use their Language to Jose. There are immense numbers that are born and live on the waters until they die: It is supposed that there are one Million that live on the waters continually. It is too well known in this Country to enter into a long history of the Chinese or their manners in general.
I do not wish to tire the reader with intrinsic circumstances; but after disposing of our furs for money, purchased ourselves a Cargo of Teas and a few China curiosities, we set sail for Boston, the 12th of November 1797.— Some apologies are necessary in this case, but when the reader is become acquainted with the circumstances he will be kind enough to excuse me for not continuing my journal in a regular manner as I intended. In the commencing of the Voyage; I had the misfortune of being sick the most part of the time after I left China unable to write. So I shall endeavour to satisfy the reader, as far as possible.
October 17th.—Lost sight of land on our passage for America after sailing through the China Seas and down the coast of Africa, through the straits of Balaboam by Java-head for ninety days we arrived at the Cape of Goodhope the Southern extremity of Africa. In Lat. 34° 30 S. Canton lying in 23 N. the reader may easily estimate the Distance. The Cape of Goodhope is the garden of Africa. It being very pleasantly situated and the most spacious Bay in the world lying before the town. This town was taken by the Dutch, a long time since from the Hottentots, but was three years since captured by the English; and now is in the hands of them and guarded by as large a sleet for the place as any in the known world. We found cause to lie [Page 13]in this place ten days on account of our sick: We had the misfortune to lose three of our people, on our passage from China; one of them third mate. We find here a variety of people: English, Dutch, Hottentots, too numerous to mention. One curiosity is the Hottentots sheep, of an enormous size; their tails are said to weigh 25lb. I have seen them to weigh 15lb. The fowl kind, the Ostrich are found here in plenty, the Casovarous are seen here, an extraordinary fowl. The Casovarous are about the size of the Ostrich, not unlike them except their wings and brustles.
February 3d.—This morning set sail for Boston, leaving one of our men sick at the Cape, and after coming too, at the Island Asanchiant to get a little refreshment by fish and turkle. We set sail for Boston. A description may not be disagreeable to the indulgent reader. It is in Lat. 8 S. a continued clift of rocks, about 24 miles in circumference. Destitute of inhabitants or any animal except rats, and them without number of an enormous size. Of fowl kind is found here the man of war bird, and Gull in plenty. The turkle of this place are very large some weighing 900lb. It being within about 8° of the Equinoctial line, S. is well adapted to them. The turtle furnished us with the most delicious dish being a variety of meats in them. For brevity sake, I must leave this subject and continue a sketch of the passage from China to America.
February the 24th, 1798.—We weighed our anchor for the last time with joyful hearts, and set sail for Boston steering W. N. W.
I. P. March 15th, 1798.—Continuing our passage to Boston N. E. trades steering W. N. W. by observation find ourselves in 23° 30 m. North about the tropic line.
April 1st, 1798.—By observation we find ourselves in Lat. 30° 24 m. upon a parallel with the W. I. Islands: Nothing particular occurred.
April 7th.—We came in sight of land through mistake. We got into Marblehead harbour owing to the fog which was very heavy, we there took a pilot and directed our course for Boston, where we arrived the 10th, after a passage of 137 days from China.