The new art of cookery, according to the present practice; being a complete guide to all housekeepers, on a plan entirely new; consisting of thirty-eight chapters. ... / By Richard Briggs, many years cook at the Globe Tavern Fleet-Street, the White Hart Tavern, Holborn, and now at the Temple Coffee-House, London. — English art of cookery

The new art of cookery, according to the present practice; being a complete guide to all housekeepers, on a plan entirely new; consisting of thirty-eight chapters. ... / By Richard Briggs, many years cook at the Globe Tavern Fleet-Street, the White Hart Tavern, Holborn, and now at the Temple Coffee-House, London. — English art of cookery

Table of contents

Title page

TO THE READER.

CONTENTS.

1

MARKETING.

Proper Rules to be observed in Marketing, for all Kinds of Provisions.

BEEF.

MUTTON.

LAMB.

VEAL.

PORK.

VENISON.

BRAWN.

HAMS.

BACON.

TURKIES.

CAPON.

FOWLS.

CHICKENS.

GEESE.

DUCKS AND DUCKLINGS.

WILD DUCKS.

PHEASANTS.

PARTRIDGES.

WOODCOCKS AND SNIPES.

BUSTARDS.

PIGEONS.

WHEAT 〈◊〉, LARKS, &c.

HARES.

RABBITS.

FISH.

TURBOT.

COD.

WHITING.

HADDOCKS.

SCAITE, OR THORNBACK.

SALMON.

STURGEON.

SOLES.

TROUT.

CARP AND TENCH.

SMELTS.

HERRINGS.

MACKAREL.

FLOUNDERS AND PLAICE.

RED MULLET.

GREY MULLET.

LOBSTERS.

SHRIMPS AND PRAWNS.

OYSTERS.

CHEESE.

BUTTER.

EGGS.

RULES FOR TRUSSING.

TURKIES.

TURKEY POULTS.

GEESE.

DUCKS.

FOWLS.

CHICKENS.

WILD FOWL of all Sorts.

PIGEONS.

WOODCOCKS AND SNIPES.

WHEAT EARS, LARKS, &c.

PHEASANTS AND PARTRIDGES.

HARES.

RABBITS.

CHAP. II. SOUPS.

Proper rules to be observed in making Soups and Broths.

Soup a la Reine.

Mock Turtle Soup.

Giblets a la Turtle.

Giblet Soup.

Soup Purree.

Soup Creffee.

Green Peas Soup.

Another Green Peas Soup.

White Peas Soup.

Peas Soup for Winter.

Common Peas Soup.

A Spanish Peas Soup.

Soup ••orrain.

Almond Soup.

Soup de Santea.

GRAVY SOUP.

Vermicelli Soup.

Macaroni Soup.

Soup and Boulée.

Soup and Boulée with Cabbage.

A West-India Pepper Pot.

Hare Soup.

Partridge Soup.

Onion Soup.

Another Onion Soup.

White Onion Soup.

Spanish Onion Soup.

Another Spanish Onions Soup.

Chesnut Soup.

Rice Soup.

Another Rice Soup.

Ox Check Soup.

Ox Check Soup Baked.

Hotch Potch.

Another Hotch-Potch.

Breast of Veal in Hotch-Potch.

Hotch-Potch of Mutton.

Mutton Broth.

Barley Broth.

Scotch Barley Broth.

Veal Broth.

Beef Broth.

Crawfish Soup.

Lobster Soup.

Scaite, or Thornback Soup.

Oyster Soup.

Eel Soup.

Muscle Soup.

Milk Soup.

Milk Soup the Dutch and German Way.

Egg Soup.

Turnip Soup.

Soup Maigre.

Plum Porridge.

Common Plum Porridge for Christmas.

Portable Soup.

CHAP. III. FISH.

Proper Rules to be observed in dressing Fish.

To dress a Turtle the West-India Way.

Another Way to dress a Turtle.

Sturgeon in Imitation of Turtle.

To boil a Turbot.

To dress a Turbot the Dutch Way.

To bike a Turbot.

To boil a Cod's Head.

To roast a Cod's Head.

To bake a Cod's Head.

To stew a Cod's Head in Claret.

To boil Cod or Codlings.

To crimp Cod.

To boil Crimp Cod.

To broil Crimp Cod.

To fricassee Cod.

To fry small Codlings.

To boil Salmon.

Salmon au Court Bouillon.

Salmon a la Braise.

To boil a Jowl of pickled salmon.

To colver Salmon.

To boil colver Salmon.

To broil Salmon.

To broil Salmon in Paper.

To boil fresh or salt Water Trout.

To dress Trout the Dutch Way.

To boil Cod Sounds.

To broil Cod Sounds.

To fricassee Cod Sounds.

To boil Scaite or Thornback.

To crimp Scaite or Thornback.

To boil crimped Scaite or Thornback.

To fry crimped Scaite or Thornback.

To stew Scaite or Thornback.

To fricassee Scaite or Thornback.

To boil Sturgeon.

To roast Sturgeon.

To roast a Collar of Sturgeon.

To bake a Collar of Sturgeon.

To stew Hollybert.

To boil a John-a-Dore.

To boil a Brill.

To boil Soles.

To dress Soles the Dutch Way.

To fry Soles.

To Stew Soles.

To fricassee Soles white.

To fricassee Soles brown.

To broil Red Mullet.

To boil Grey Mullet.

To broil a Grey Mullet.

To broil Weavers.

To boil Mackarel.

To broil Mackarel.

Mackarel a la Maitre de Hotel.

To boil Whitings.

To broil Whitings.

To fry Whitings.

To boil Haddocks.

To broil Haddocks.

To fry Haddocks.

To dress Haddock the Spanish Way.

To dress Haddocks the Jews Way.

To boil Pipers or Gurnets.

To boil Herrings.

To broil Herrings.

To fry Herrings.

To fry Smelts.

White Bait.

To broil Sprats.

To boil Plaice or Flounders.

To fry Plaice or Flounders.

To boil Barrel or Salt Cod.

To boil Salt Ling.

To dress Bacaloa or Tusk.

To broil dried Salmon.

To boil Scotch or Salt Haddocks.

To broil dried Whitings.

British or pickled Herrings boiled.

To boil a Pike.

To roast or bake a Pike.

To boil Carp or Tench.

To fry Carp or Tench.

Another Way to fry Carp or Tench.

To bake Carp.

Carp an Blue.

To stew Carp or Tench.

To stew Carp or Tench another Way.

To boil Perch.

Perch in Water Souch•e.

To fry Perch.

To fry Lampreys.

To stew Lampreys.

To boil Eels.

To fry Eels.

To broil Eels.

To pitchcock Eels.

To roast Eels and Lampreys.

To stew Eels.

Another way to stew Eels.

To stew Eels with Broth.

To farce Eels with white Sauce.

To make a Collar of Fish in Ragou.

To boil Lobsters.

To broil Lobsters.

To roast a Lobster.

To stew Lobsters.

To ragou Lobsters.

To butter Lobsters.

A Dish of cold Lobsters.

To butter a Crab.

To dress a Crab.

To dish Crawfish.

To dish Prawns.

To stew Scollops.

To fricassee Scollops.

To stew Oysters.

To ragou Oysters.

S•olleped Oysters.

To stew Muscles.

To stew Muscles another Way.

To stew Cockles.

To stew Crawfish, Prawns, or Shrimps.

CHAP. IV. SAUCES.

Gravy.

Gravy for white Sauces.

Gravy for a Fowl when you have no Meat.

Brown Gravy for Fish.

White Gravy for Fish, Sauces, &c.

Gravy for Venison.

Sweet Sauces for Venison or Hares.

Force-meat Balls for real or mock Turtle.

Egg Balls.

Browning for made Dishes, &c.

Lobster Sauce.

Oyster Sauce for Fish.

Oyster Sauce for boiled Turkey, Fowls, or any white Meat.

Shrimp Sauce.

Anchovy Sauce.

Muscle Sauce.

Cockle Sauce.

Melted Butter.

White Cellery Sauce.

Brown Cellery Sauce.

Onion Sauce for boiled Rabbits, Ducks, Geese, &c.

Spanish Onion Sauce.

Gallentine Sauce.

Bread Sauce.

Sauces for a Pig.

Green Sauce for Green Geese, Ducklings, &c.

Sorrel Sauce.

Fennel Sauce.

Parsley Sauce.

Egg Sauce.

Apple Sauce.

Mint Sauce.

Caper Sauce.

Poveroy Sauce.

Carrier Sauce.

Gooseberry Sauce.

White Sauce for boiled Fowls or Chickens.

Mock Oyster Sauce.

White Mushroom Sauce.

Brown Mushroom Sauce.

Pickled Mushroom Sauce.

Sauce for roast Rabbits.

White Sauce for a Hare.

Lemon Sauce for boiled Fowls.

Another Sauce for boiled Fowls.

Sauce Robart.

Fin Sauce.

CHAP. V. BOILING.

Proper Rules to be observed in Boiling.

To boil a Haunch or Neck of Venison▪

Hams.

Tongues.

Beef.

Mutton.

Veal.

Breast of Veal.

Calves Head.

Lamb.

Pork.

Turkies.

Fowls.

Chickens.

Chickens with Bacon and Cellery.

Chickens and Tongues.

Goose.

Ducks.

Ducks boiled the French Way.

Pigeons.

Rabbits.

Pheasants.

Partridges.

Woodcocks or Snipes.

Plovers.

CHAP. VI. ROASTING.

Proper Rules to be observed in Roasting.

Beef.

Mutton.

Lamb.

Fillet of Veal.

Loin of Veal.

Pork.

Tongue and Udder.

Venison.

Haunch of Mutton.

Leg of Mutton with Oysters.

Leg or Shoulder of Mutton.

Pigs.

Hind Quarter of Pig dressed Lamp Fashion.

A Fawn.

Ham or Gammon of Bacon.

Ox Palates.

Calf's Liver.

Hare.

Rabbits Hare Fashion.

Rabbits.

Turkey.

Turkey with chesnuts.

Turkey the Hamburgh Way.

Greene Geese.

Goose.

Ducklings.

Ducks.

Fowls.

Fowls the German Way.

Fowls with Chesnuts.

Chickens.

Chickens with Cucumbers.

Pheasants.

Partridges.

Fowl Pheasant Fashion.

Wild Ducks.

Woodcocks and Snipes.

Ortolans.

Ruffs and Reefs.

Larks the Dunstable Way.

Guinea Fowl.

Pigeons.

Plovers.

Wheat-Ears.

Ox-Heart.

Calf's Heart.

Veal Sweetbreads.

Quails.

CHAP. VII. BAKING.

Rump of Beef.

Ribs of Beef.

Toad in a Hole.

Leg of Beef.

Calf's Head.

Calf's Head the Dutch Way.

Lamb and rice.

Pig.

Fillet of Veal.

Ox-Heart.

Herrings.

Sprats.

CHAP. VIII. BROILING.

Proper Rules to be observed in Broiling.

Fowls and Chickens.

Pigeons.

Beef Steaks.

Beef Steaks the French Way.

Mutton Chops.

Cutlets Maintenon.

Pork Chops.

Veal Cutlets.

Veal Cutlets Maintenon.

Veal Chops.

Lamp Chops.

Potatoes.

Legs of Turkey or Fowls.

Calfs Heart.

CHAP. IX. FRYING.

Proper Rules to be observed in Frying.

Beef Steaks.

Mutton Chops.

Lamp Chops.

Another Way.

Lamb's Fry.

Pigs Ears.

Veal Steaks.

Cold Veal.

Cold Fowl, Pigeon, or Rabbit.

Tripe.

Sausages.

Potatoes.

Artichokes.

Cellery.

Cauliflowers.

Eggs.

Oysters.

Calf's Liver and Bacon.

CHAP. X. STEWS AND HASHES.

Proper Rules to be observed in Stewing and Hashing.

Rump of Beef.

Rump of Beef another Way.

Rump or Brisket of Beef the French Way.

Beef Gobbots.

Beef the Portugal Way.

Beef Steaks.

Beef with Cucumbers.

Neats Tongues whole.

Breast of Venison.

Breast of Venison another Way.

Knuckle of Veal.

Knuckle of Veal with Rice.

Calf or Lamb's Head.

Fillet of Veal.

Veal and Peas.

Turkey stewed brown.

Another Way.

Turkey with Cellery.

Fowl.

Fowl with Cellery.

Fowl with Rice.

Fowl or Chicken the Dutch Way.

Chickens.

Chickens another Way

Chickens the Scotch Way.

Pheasant.

Pigeons.

Geese Giblets.

Ducks Giblets.

Hare.

Jugged Hare.

Calf's Feet.

Calf's Head hashed brown.

Calf's Head hashed white.

Calf's Heart hashed.

Hashed Veal.

Minced Veal.

Hashed Hare.

Hashed Venison.

Hashed Beef.

Hashed Mutton.

Wild Fowl hashed.

Turkey or Fowl hashed.

Woodcocks or snipes hashed.

Pheasants and Partridges hashed.

Pigs Petty To•s.

CHAP. XI. MADE DISHES.

Proper Rules to be observed in Made Dishes.

A brown Cullis.

A white Cullis.

A Be•••mell,

Rump of Beef a la Doube.

Rump of Beef a la Braize.

A rolled Rump of Beef.

Surloin of Beef in Epigram.

The Inside of a Surloin of Beef forced.

To force a Rump of Beef.

Rump of Beef in Epigram.

Beef a la Mode.

Beef a la Mode in Pieces,

Beef Escarlot.

Beef a la Royale.

Beef Tremblongue.

Beef Olives.

Herrico of Beef Tails.

Beef Collops.

A Fillet of Beef.

Neat's Tongue forced.

Cow's Udder forced.

Beef streaks rolled.

Loin of Veal in Epigram.

Leg of Veal and Bacon in Disguise.

Bombarded Veal.

Fillet of Veal with Collops.

Shoulder of Veal a la Piedmontoise.

Veal a la Bourgoise.

Neck of Veal a la Royale.

Neck of Veal a la Braize.

Neck of Veal a la Glaize.

Fricandeux of Veal.

Veal Olives.

Veal Olives another Way.

Veal Olives the French Way.

Veal Blanquets.

Veal Rolls.

Pilloc of Veal.

Pilloc the Indian Way.

Pilloc another Way.

Curric of Veal.

Porcupine of a Breast of Veal.

A Savory Dish of Veal.

Breast of Veal collared.

Fricandillas of Veal.

Tenderoons of Veal.

Tenderoons another Way.

Italian Collops.

Italian Collops White.

Scotch Collops.

White Collops.

Scotch Collops a la Francoise.

Calf's Head Surprise.

Ham a la Braize.

Shoulder of Mutton in Epigram.

Shoulder of Mutton Surprise.

Leg of Mutton a la Royale.

Leg of Mutton a la Hoût Goút.

Shoulder of Mutton with a Ragou of Turneps.

To stuff a Leg or Shoulder of Mutton.

Oxford John.

Mutton the Turkish Way,

A Basque of Mutton.

To collar a Breast of Mutton.

Mutton Kebobbed.

Neck of Mutton called the Hasty Dish.

Mutton a la Blaize.

Mutton Chops in Disguise.

Herrico of Mutton.

Mutton the French Way.

Another French Way, called St. Menehout.

Lion of Mutton forced.

Breast of Mutton grilled.

Mutton Rumps a la Braize.

Mutton Rumps with Rice.

Lamb's Head.

To force a Leg of Lamb.

Lamb Cutlets with Fin Sauce.

Lamb Chops in Casorole.

Lamb Chops larded.

Shoulder of Lamb a la Salpicon.

Breasts of Lamb a la Paitrine.

Neck of Lamb a la Glaize.

Ribs of Lamb on Gardinere.

Lambs Ears in Beshemel.

Claves Ears in Beshemel.

Barbicued Pig.

A Pig the French Way.

A Pig an Pere Douillet.

A Pig Matelote.

Pork Cutlets Sauce Robart.

Herrico of Venison.

A Goose a la Mode.

Ducks a la Mode.

Ducks a la Braize.

Duck with Green Peas.

Duck with Cucumbers.

Sweetbreads of Veal a la Dauphin.

Sweetbreads on Gerdiniere.

Sweetbreads a la Glaize.

Sweetbreads au Beshemel.

Turkey a la Doube.

Turkey a la Braize.

Turkey a la Glaize.

Peregoe Turkey.

Fowl a la Braize.

Fowl a la Farce.

Fowl a la Glaize.

Pullets a la Sainte Menchout.

To Marinate Fowls.

Fowls Frangas Incopadas.

Chickens a la Braize.

Chickens Chiringrate.

Chickens Surprize.

Artificial Chickens or Pigeons.

P•lied Chickens.

Pigeons a la Doube.

Pigeons au Poire.

Pigeons stoved.

Pigeons Surtout.

Pigeons Compote.

French Pupton of pigeons.

Pigeons transmographied.

Pigeons in Fricandeux.

Pigeons with a Farce.

Pigeons a la Souffel.

Pigeons in Pimlico.

Jugged Pigeons.

Pigeons a la Italienne

Partridges a la Braize.

Partridge Panes.

Pheasants a la Braize.

Florendine Hare.

To scare a Hare.

Hare Civet.

Rabbits Surprise.

Rabbits in Cassorole.

Florendine Rabbits.

Portugal Chickens.

Currey of Chickens.

Larks Pear Fashion.

Woodcocks or Snipes in a Surtout.

To Salmee Woodcocks or Snipes.

To Salmee a Wild Duck, or any Sort of Wild Fowl.

Macaroni a la Parmazan.

A Mock Turtle.

CHAP. XII. RAGOUS.

BEEF.

Ox Palates.

Neck of Veal.

Breast of Veal.

Another Way.

Sweetbreads.

Leg of Mutton.

Livers.

Pigs Feet and Ears.

Lamb.

Lamb another Way.

Breast of Lamb.

CHAP. XIII. FRICASSEES.

Neat's Tongue.

Ox Palates.

Lamb Cutlets.

Lambs Stones and Sweetbreads.

Tripe.

Another Way.

Tripe a la Kilkenny.

Chickens brown.

Chickens white.

Rabbits brown.

Rabbits white.

Pigeons brown.

Pigeons white.

Pigeons the Italian Way.

Eggs.

Calves Feet and Chaldron the Italian Way.

CHAP. XIV. ROOTS AND VEGETABLES.

Proper Rules to be observed in dressing Roots and Vegetables.

Greens and Sprouts.

Cabbages,

Cauliflowers.

Another Way.

Broccoli.

Spinach.

Carrots.

Turneps.

Parsneps.

Mashed Parsneps.

Potatoes.

Mashed Potatoes.

Windsor Beans.

French Beans.

Asparagus.

Artichokes.

Green Peas.

Mushrooms broiled.

Mushrooms stewed.

Mushrooms fricasseed.

Mushrooms Ragou.

Peas and Lettuces stewed.

Peas stewed another Way.

Peas Francoise.

Green Peas with Cream.

Cucumbers stewed.

Cucumbers stewed another Way.

Cucumbers in Ragou.

Cucumbers a la Farce.

Skirrets fricasseed.

Asparagus a la Petit Poy.

Asparagus in Ragou.

Asparagus the Italian Way.

Asparagus in French Rolls.

French Beans in Ragou.

Beans in Ragou with a Farce.

French Beans ragoned with Cabbage.

French Beans ragoued with Parsneps.

French Beans ragoued with Potatoes.

Kidney Beans in Ragou.

White Kidney Beans fricasseed.

Endive in Ragou.

Chardoons stewed.

Chardoons fried and buttered.

Chardoons a la Petit Pois.

Chardoons a la Fromage.

Artichoke Bottoms Fricasseed.

Artichoke Bottoms a la Cap.

Artichokes au Barigoult.

Brocoli in Sallad.

Cauliflowers in Ragou.

Cauliflowers stewed.

Cauliflowers d'Espanole.

Green Truffles boiled.

Green Truffles stewed.

Green Truffles a la Italiane.

Green Morels stewed.

Green Morels fricassee.

Green Morels forced.

Cabbage forced.

Cabbage Farce Maigre.

Savoys forced and stewed.

Red Cabbage a la Haslang.

Spinach stewed.

Spinach a la Cream.

Parsneps stewed.

Cellery in Ragou.

Cellery a la Cream.

Cellery stewed.

Sorrel stewed.

Potatoes in Imitation of a Collar of Veal or Mutton.

Potatoe Cakes.

Onions in Ragou.

CHAP. XV.

AUMLETS AND EGGS.

Plain Aumlet.

Aumlet with sweet Herbs.

Aumlet with Asparagas.

Aumlet with Green Peas.

Aumlet with Sorrel or Spinach.

Aumlet with Parmazan Cheese.

Aumlet of Beans.

A pretty Dish of Eggs.

Eggs a la Tripe.

Eggs in Ragou.

Eggs poached.

Eggs buttered, with a Toast.

Eggs and Collops fried.

Eggs with Bread.

Eggs forced.

Eggs with Lettuces.

Eggs with stewed Spinach.

Eggs with Sorrel.

Eggs with Broccoli.

Eggs with Asparagus.

Eggs fried as round as Balls.

An Egg as big as twenty.

Whites of Eggs a la Cream.

Eggs with Gravy.

Eggs in Marinate.

CHEESE.

Ramaquins of Cheese.

Ramaquins on Toasts.

Cheese in Fondeux.

Stewed Cheese.

Wel•h Rabbit.

Scotch Rabbit.

English Rabbit.

CHAP. XVI. PUDDINGS.

Proper Rules to be observed in making Puddings.

Stoak Pudding.

Pigeon Pudding.

Ox-Pith Pudding.

Calf's Foot Pudding.

Hunting Pudding.

Plumb Pudding boiled.

Plumb Pudding baked.

Suet Pudding boiled.

Yorkshire Pudding.

Narrow Pudding.

Marrow Pudding another Way.

Vermicelli Pudding.

Oat Pudding,

New College Puddings.

Orange Pudding.

Orange Pudding a second Way.

Orange Pudding a third Way.

Orange Pudding a fourth Way.

Lemon Pudding.

Lemon Pudding a second Way

Almond Pudding baked.

Almond Pudding boiled.

Ipswich Almond Pudding.

Sago Pudding.

Millet Pudding.

Carrot Pudding.

Carrot Pudding a second Way.

Rice Pudding.

Rice Pudding a Second Way.

Rice Pudding a third Way.

Rice Pudding a fourth Way.

Rice Pudding boiled.

Rice Pudding boiled a second Way.

Simolina Rice Pudding.

Spinach Pudding.

Quaking Pudding.

Cream Pudding.

Oatmeal Pudding.

Custard Pudding boiled.

Custard Pudding baked.

Flour Pudding.

Batter Pudding.

Batter Pudding another Way.

Grateful Pudding.

Bread Puddings.

Bread Pudding a second Way.

Bread Pudding a third Way.

Bread Pudding baked.

Bread and Butter Pudding.

Transparent Pudding.

Puddings in little Dishes.

Sweetmeat Pudding.

Ratifia Pudding.

Plain Pudding.

Chesnut Pudding.

Cowslip Pudding.

Apricot Pudding.

Quince Pudding.

Italian Pudding.

Pearl Barley Pudding.

Pearl Barley Pudding a second Way.

French Barley Pudding.

Apple Pudding baked.

Apple Pudding boiled.

Pruen Pudding.

Spoonful Pudding.

Citron Pudding.

Lemon Tower Pudding.

Potatoe Pudding.

Potatoe Pudding a second Way.

Potatoe Pudding a third Way.

Yam Pudding.

Flour Hasty Pudding.

Oatmeal Hasty Pudding.

Almond Puddings in Skins.

Tansey Pudding boiled.

Tansey Pudding with Almonds.

Tansey Pudding baked.

Little Cheese Curd Puddings.

Suet Dumplins.

Suet Dumplins a second Way.

Yeast Dumplins.

Norfolk Dumplins.

Hard Dumplins.

Hard Dumplins a second Way.

Apple Dumplins.

Apple Dumplins a second Way.

CHAP. XVII.

PIES.

Proper rules to be observed in making and baking Pies.

Puff-Paste.

Tart Paste.

Tart Paste another Way.

Raising Paste.

Another raising Paste.

Rubbed Paste.

Dripping Paste.

Crackling Paste.

Shrewsbury Paste.

Crocant Paste.

Gum Paste.

Venison Pasty.

Beef-Steak Pie.

Mutton Pie.

Ox-Cheek Pie.

Cheshire Pork Pie.

Devonshire Squab Pie.

Shropshire Pie.

Ham and Chicken Pie.

Sweet Veal or Lamb Pie.

Veal Pie.

Lamb Pie.

Veal or Lamb Pie raised.

Veal Olive Pie.

Calf's Foot Pie.

Calf's Head Pie.

Swan Pie.

Yorkshire Christmas Pie.

Goose Pie.

Turkey Pie with green Truffles.

Chicken Pie.

Duck Pie.

Pigeon Pie.

Pigeon Pie raised.

Giblet Pie.

Rabbit Pie.

Hare Pie.

Patty Gou de Vou.

Gou de Vou Pie.

Beef-Steak Patty.

Sweetbread Patty.

Peregord Pie.

Little Mutton Pies.

Turbot Pie.

Salmon Pie.

Salt Fish Pie.

Sole Pie.

Carp Pie.

Tench and Eel Pie.

Eel Pie.

Flounder Pie.

Herring Pie.

Lobster Pie.

Muscle Pie.

Fish Pasties the Italian Way.

Mince-meat.

Lent Mince Pie.

Florendine of Veal.

Cheese Curd Florendine.

Florendine of Apples and Oranges.

Tort de Moy.

Artichoke Pie.

Potatoe Pie.

Onion Pie.

Skirret Pie.

Savory Egg Pie.

Sweet Egg Pie.

Green Coddling Pie.

Apple Pie.

Gooseberry Pie.

Currant and Rasberry Pie.

Morella Cherry Pie.

PETTIT PATTIES.

Force-meat Patties.

Chicken, Turkey, or Veal Patties.

Fish Patties.

Oyster Patties.

Oyster Loaves.

Lobster Patties.

Fried Patties.

TARTS, TARTLETS, AND PUFFS.

Orange or Lemon Tarts.

Green Apricot Tarts.

Green Almond Tarts.

Rhubarb Tarts.

Angelica Tarts.

Icing for Tarts.

Apple Tartlets.

Rasberry Tartlets.

Apricot Tartlets.

Apple Puffs.

Rasberry Puffs.

Apricot Puffs.

Curd Puffs.

Sugar Puffs.

Chocolate Puffs.

Almond Puffs.

Lemon Puffs.

CHAP. XVIII. PANCAKES AND FRITTERS.

Cream Pancakes.

Fine Pancakes.

Fine Pancakes a second Way.

A third Way.

Milk Pancakes.

Common Pancakes.

A Quire of Paper Pancakes.

Rice Pancakes.

Tansey Pancakes.

Pink-coloured Pancakes.

Apple Fritters,

Apple Fritters a second Way.

Fine Fritters.

Fritters Royal.

Hasty Fritters.

Curd Fritters.

Skirret Fritters.

White Fritters.

Syringed Fritters.

Vine Leaf Fritters,

Clary Fritters.

Potatoe Fritters.

Apple Fraze.

Almond Fraze.

Bacon Fraze.

CHAP. XIX. CHEESECAKES AND CUSTARDS.

Fine Cheesecakes.

Common Cheesecakes.

Citron Cheesecakes.

Lemon Cheesecakes.

Lemon Cheesecakes, a second Way.

Almond Cheesecakes.

Plain Cheesecakes.

Rice Cheesecakes.

Maids of Honour.

Fine Custards.

Plain Custards.

Almond Custards.

Orange Custards.

CHAP. XX. Blanc'mange, Creams, and Flummery.

Blanc'mange.

Blanc'mange, a second Way.

Blanc'mange, a third Way.

Steeple Cream.

Lemon Cream.

Lemon Cream, a second Way.

Orange Cream, a second Way.

Rhenish Cream.

Jelly of Cream.

Pistachio Cream.

Pistachio Cream, a second Way.

Hartshorn Cream.

Almond Cream.

Ratifia Cream.

Barley Cream.

Goosberry Cream.

Lute Cream.

Whip Cream.

Clouted Cream.

Quince Cream.

Citron Cream.

Rasberry Cream.

Snow and Cream.

Ice Cream.

Hartshorn Flummery.

Hartshorn Flummery, a second Way.

Oatmeal Flummery.

French Flummery.

Hedge, Hog.

Eggs and Bacon in Flummery.

Fairy Butter.

Orange butter.

CHAP. XXI. JELLIES AND SYLLABUBS.

Hartshorn Jelly.

Calf's Feet Jelly.

Jelly for Moulds, &c.

Savory Jelly.

Orange Jelly.

Ribband Jelly.

Green Mellon in Jelly.

Fruit in Jelly.

Gold Fish in Jelly.

Hen's Nest in Jelly.

Red Currant Jelly.

Black Currant Jelly.

Turkey in Jelly.

Chicken in Jelly.

Lobster or Crayfish in Jelly.

Whipt Syllabubs.

Solid Syllabubs.

Everlasting Syllabubs.

Syllabub under the Cow.

Lemon Syllabubs.

Trifle.

Floating Island.

CHAP. XXII. Directions for those that attend the Sick.

Mutton Broth

To boil a Scrag of Veal.

Beef or Mutton Broth, for very weak People who take but little Nourishment.

Beef Drink, which is ordered for weak People.

Beef Tea.

Pork Broth.

To boil a Chicken.

To boil Pigeons.

To boil a Partridge, or any other Wild Fowl.

To boil a Plaice, or Flounder.

To mince Veal, or Chicken, for the sick or weak People.

To pull a Chicken for the sick.

Chicken Broth.

Chicken Water.

White Caudle.

Brown Caudle.

Water Gruel.

Panada.

To boil Sago.

To boil Salop.

Isinglass Jelly.

The Pectoral Drink.

Buttered Water, or what the Germans call Egg-soup, who are very fond of it for Supper.

Seed Water.

Bread Soup, for the Sick.

Artificial Asses milk.

Cows Milk next to Asses Milk, done thus.

A good Drink.

Barley Water.

Sage Tea.

For a Child.

Liquor for a child that has the Thrush.

To boil Comfrey Roots.

The Knuckle Broth.

A Medicine for a Disorder in the Bowels.

CHAP. XXIII. Directions for Seafaring Men.

Catchup to keep twenty Years.

Fish sauce to keep the whole Year.

To Pot Dripping, to fry Fish, Meat, Fritters, &c.

To pickle Mushrooms for the Sea.

Mushroom Powder.

To keep Mushrooms without Pickle.

To keep Artichoke Bottoms dry.

To fry Artichoke Bottoms.

To ragou Artichoke Bottoms.

To dress Fish.

To bake Fish.

A Gravy Soup.

Peas Soup.

Pork Pudding, or Beef.

A Rice Pudding.

A Suet Pudding.

A Liver Pudding boiled.

Oatmeal Pudding.

To bake an Oatmeal Pudding.

A Rice Pudding boiled.

A Harrico of French Beans.

A Fowl Pie.

A Cheshire Pork Pie for Sea.

Sea Venison.

Dumplings, when you have white Bread.

Chouder.

CHAP. XXIV. PRESERVING.

Rules to be observed in Preserving.

Oranges.

Lemons.

Gooseberries.

Rasberries.

Red Currants.

White Currants.

Green Codlings.

Golden Pippins.

Grapes.

Walnuts white.

Walnuts green.

Walnuts black.

Green-Gage Plumbs.

Damsons.

Damsons for Tarts.

Morella Cherries.

Strawberries.

Pine Apples.

Barberries.

Quinces.

Peaches.

Apricots.

Cucumbers.

Rasberry Jam.

Apricot Jam.

Strawberry Jam.

Black Currant Jam.

CHAP. XXV. SYRUPS AND CONSERVES.

Syrup of Quinces.

Syrup of Roses.

Syrup of Citron.

Syrup of Clove Gilliflowers.

Syrup of Peach Blossoms.

Conserve of Red Roses, or any other Flowers.

Conserve Hips.

Conserve of Orange-Peel.

CHAP. XXVI. DRYING AND CANDYING.

To dry Cherries.

Cherries with their Leaves and Stalks green.

To dry Cherries a third Way.

To dry Cherries a fourth Way.

To dry Peaches.

To dry Plumbs.

To dry Damsons.

To dry Plumbs green.

To dry Apricots.

Lemon and Orange Peel candied.

Melon Citren candied.

Angelica candied.

Cassia candied.

Orange Marmalade.

Apricot Marmalade.

Red Quince Marmalade.

White Quince Marmalade.

Rasberry Paste.

Currant Paste.

Goosberry Paste.

Orange Chips.

Apricot Chips.

Ginger Tablet.

CHAP. XXVII. CAKES.

Proper Rules to be observed in making Cakes.

Icing for Cakes.

A rich Cake.

Plumb Cake.

A Pound Cake

Seed Cake.

White Plumb Cakes.

Butter Cake.

Rice Cakes.

Cream Cakes.

A fine Seed or Saffron Cake.

Nuns Cake.

Pepper Cakes.

Portugal Cakes.

A pretty Cake.

Little fine Cakes.

Shrewsbury Cakes.

Maudling Cakes.

Little Plumb Cakes.

Carraway Cakes.

Sugar Cakes.

Almond Cakes.

Uxbridge Cakes.

Bride Cake.

Prussian Cakes.

Apricot Cakes.

Quince Cakes.

Orange Cakes.

Bath Cakes.

Black Caps.

Green Caps.

Gingerbread Cakes.

•••roon Cakes.

Lemon Biscuits.

French Biscuits.

Drop Biscuits.

Common Biscuits.

Sponge Biscuits.

Spanish Biscuits.

Light Wigs.

Buns.

CHAP. XXVIII. HOGS PUDDINGS, SAUSAGES, &c.

Almond Hogs Puddings

Another Way.

A third Way.

Hogs Puddings with Currants.

Black Puddings.

Savoloys.

Fine Sausages.

Common Sausages.

Oxford Sausages.

Bologna Sausages.

Andouilles or Calves Chitterlings.

CHAP. XXIX.

POTTING.

Proper Rules to be observed in Potting

Venison.

Beef.

Beef like Venison.

Tongues.

Tongue and Fowl.

Hare.

Goose.

Turkey

Chickens or Pigeons.

Moore Game or Pheasants.

Woodcocks or Snipes.

Wheat-Ears, Larks, &c.

Marble Veal.

Savory Veal Cake.

Salmon.

Pike.

Chars.

Lampreys.

Eels.

Lobsters.

LITTLE COLD DISHES.

Salamungundy.

Dutch or Hung Beef.

Dutch or Hung Beef on Tops and Bottoms.

Dutch or British Herrings.

Ham.

CHAP. XXX. CARVING.

To cut up a Turkey

To rear a Goose.

To unbrace a Mallad or Duck.

To unlace a Cony.

To wing a Partridge or Quail.

To allay a Pleasant or Teal.

To dismember a hern.

To thigh a Woodcock.

To display a Crane.

To lift a Swan.

CHAP. XXXI. COLLARING.

BEEF.

Breast of Veal,

Gallentine of a Breast of Veal.

Venison.

Calf's Head.

Pig.

Salmon.

Eels.

CHAP. XXXII. SALTING AND SOUSING.

Pork Hams.

Beef Hams.

Veal Hams.

Mutton Hams.

Tongues.

Dutch Beef.

Yorkshire Hung Beef.

Bacon

Westphalia Bacon.

Pickled Pork.

Sham Brawn.

A Turkey soused, in Imitation of Sturgeon.

Pigs Feet and Ears soused.

Mackrel Soused.

CHAP. XXXIII. PICKLING.

Proper Rules to be observed in Pickling.

White Wine Vinegar.

Sugar Vinegar.

Elder Vinegar.

Tarragon Vinegar.

Walnuts Green.

Walnuts White.

Walnuts Black.

Gerkins.

Large Cucumbers in Slices.

Asparagus.

Peaches.

Radish Pods.

French Beans

Cauliflowers.

Beet-root.

White Plums.

Onions.

Lemons.

Mushrooms White.

To make Pickle for Mushrooms.

Mushrooms brown.

Codlings.

Fennel.

Grapes.

Barberries.

Red Cabbage.

Golden Pippins.

Nastertium Berries and Limes.

Young Suckers, or young Artichokes before the Leaves are hard.

Artichoke Bottoms.

Samphire.

Mock Ginger.

Melon Mangoes.

Elder Shoots in imitation of Bamboo.

Indian Pickle, or Picca Lillo.

Red Currants.

Ox Palates.

Cocks Combs.

Purple Cabbage.

Salmon.

Sturgeon.

Mackrel, called Caveach.

Mock Anchovies.

Smelts.

Oysters.

Cockles or Muscles.

Walnut Ketchup.

Mushroom Ketchup.

Mushroom Powder.

CHAP. XXXV. To keep Garden Vegetables and Fruits.

To keep French Beans all the Year.

To keep Green Peas till Christmas.

A second Way to keep Green Peas.

To keep Red Gooseberries.

To keep Walnuts all the Year.

Another Way to keep Lemons.

To keep Grapes.

To dry Artichoke Bottoms.

To Bottle green Gooseberries.

To Bottle green Currants.

To Bottle Damsons, white Bullace, &c.

To Bottle Cranberries.

CHAP. XXXV. WINES.

Raisin Wine.

Elder Wine.

Orange Wine.

Orange Wine with Raisins.

Elder Flower Wine, very like Frontiniac.

Gooseberry Wine.

Currant Wine.

Cherry Wine.

Birch Wine.

Quince Wine.

Cowslip, or Clary Wine.

Turnep Wine.

Rasberry Wine.

Mead Wine.

Blackberry Wine.

Damson Wine.

Grape Wine.

Apricot Wine.

Balm Wine.

Mountain Wine.

Black Cherry Brandy.

Rasberry Brandy.

Orange Shrub.

CHAP. XXXVI. CORDIAL WATERS.

Proper Rules to be observed in making Cordial Waters.

Walnut Water.

Treacle Water.

Treacle Water, Lady Monmouth's Way.

Black Cherry Water.

Hysterical Water.

Red Rose Buds.

Surfeit Water.

Milk Water.

Stag's Heart Water.

To make Angelica Water.

Milk Water a second Way.

Cordial Poppy Water.

Peppermint Water.

Rose Water.

Lavender Water.

Aqua Mirabilis.

Orange or Lemon Water.

Piedmont Water.

Nutmeg Water.

Fever Water.

CHAP. XXXVII. BREWING.

CHAP. XXXVIII. BAKING.

English and French Bread.

English Bread the London Way.

Bread without Yeast, by the Help of a Leaven.

French Bread.

Muffins.

To preserve a large Stock of Yeast, which will keep and be of Use for several Months.

Just published, Printed and sold by W. SPOTSWOOD, Philadelphia;

§

§

[Page]

[Page]

THE NEW ART OF COOKERY, ACCORDING TO THE PRESENT PRACTICE; BEING A Complete Guide to all Housekeepers, ON A PLAN ENTIRELY NEW; CONSISTING OF THIRTY-EIGHT CHAPTERS.

CONTAINING,

Proper Directions for Marketing, and Trussing of Poultry.

The making Soups and Broths.

Dressing all Sorts of Fish.

Sauces for every Occasion.

Boiling and Roasting.

Baking, Broiling, and Frying.

Stews and Hashes.

Made Dishes of every Sort.

Ragous and Fricasees.

Directions for dressing all Sorts of Roots and Vegetables.

All Sorts of Aumlets and Eggs.

Puddings, Pies, Tarts, &c.

Pancakes and Fritters.

Cheesecakes and Custards.

Blancmange, Jellies, and Syllabubs.

Directions for Seafaring Men.

Directions for the Sick.

Preserving, Syrups, and Conserves.

Drying and Candying.

All Sorts of Cakes.

Hogs Puddings, Sausages, &c.

Potting, and little cold Dishes.

The Art of Carving.

Collaring, Salting, and Sousing.

Pickling.

To keep Garden Vegetables, &c.

Made Wines.

Cordial Waters.

Brewing.

English and French Bread, &c.

BY RICHARD BRIGGS, MANY YEARS COOK AT THE GLOBE TAVERN FLEET-STREET, THE WHITE HART TAVERN, HOLBORN, AND NOW AT THE TEMPLE COFFEE-HOUSE, LONDON.

PHILADELPHIA: PRINTED FOR W. SPOTSWOOD, R. CAMPBELL, AND B. JOHNSON.

M.DCC.XCII.

TO THE READER.

[Page]

HAVING employed much of my Life in the Practice of Cookery, in all its Branches, I presume to offer the following Sheets to the Public▪ in hopes that they will find the Directions and Receipts more intelligible than in most Books of the Kind. I have bestowed every Pain [...] to render them easily practicable, and adapted to the Capacities of those who may be ordered to use them. The waste Language and high Terms on such Subjects, appears to me to render the Art of Cookery embarrassing, and to throw Difficulties in the Way of the Learner—nor can the Reader reasonably expect any superfluous Embellishments of Style from one whose Habits of Life have been active, and not studious.

The Errors and Imperfections of former Treatises first suggested to me that a Performance like the following would be acceptable to the Public. In one Article, that of trussing Poultry, I have endeavoured to give particular and useful Directions, because no Book of this Kind has contained such, that Subject having been universally overlooked by them—and in this, as well as in all other Branches of the Art of Cookery, I hope the Reader with find much Improvement, and many useful Hints. The Contents I have endeavoured to render as complete as possible, that the Learner may have [...] Recourse to whatever Article may be wanted.

Aware, however, of the [...] of my Task, I submit this Performance, with [...] and [...], as I am con [...]ous that Errors will c [...]ep into the best Performances, and that the only Merit I can claim is, th [...] of having corrected the [...] of former Works, and added the [...] Improvements derived from my can Practice and Experience.

RICHARD BRIGGS.

Temple Coffee-House, [...]. 1, 1 [...]88.

CONTENTS.

[Page]

CHAP. I.—MARKETING.

PROPER rules to be observed in marketing, for all kinds of provisions Page 1

Beef ibid.

Mutton 2

Lamb 3

Veal ib.

Pork 4

Venison 5

Brawn 6

Hams ib.

Bacon ib.

Turkies 7

Capons ib.

Fowls ib.

Chickens 8

Geese ib.

Ducks and ducklings ib.

Wild ducks ib.

Pheasants 9

Partridges ib.

Woodcocks and snipes ib.

Bustards 10

Pigeons ib.

Wheat-tars, larks, &c. ib.

Hares Page 10

Rabbits ibid.

Fish 11

Turbot ib.

Cod ib.

Whiting ib.

Haddocks 12

Scaite, or thornback ib.

Salmon ib.

Sturgeon ib.

Soles 13

Trout ib.

Carp and tench ib.

Smelts ib.

Herrings 14

Mackarel ib.

Flounders and plaice ib.

Red mullet ib.

Grey mullet 15

Lobsters ib.

Shrimps and prawns ib.

Oysters ib.

Cheese 16.

Butter ib.

Eggs ib.

RULES FOR TRUSSING.

Turkies 17

Turkey poults 18

Geese 19

Ducks ib.

Fowls ib.

Chickens 20

Wild fowls of all sorts ib.

Pigeons 21

Woodcocks and snipes ib.

Wheat-ears larks, &c. ib.

Pheasants and partridges 22

Hares ib.

Rabbits 23

CHAP. II.—SOUPS.

Proper rules to be observed in making soups and broths 23

Soup a la reine 24

Mock turtle soup 25

Giblets a la turtle 26

Giblet soup 27

Soup purree ib.

Soup Creffee 28

Green peas soup ib.

Another green peas soup 29

White peas soup ib.

Peas soup for winter 30

Common peas soup 31

A Spanish peas soup ib.

[Page] Soup Lorrain Page 31

Almond soup 32

Soup de santea ib.

Gravy soup 33

Vermicelli soup 34

Macaroni soup ib.

Soup and boulee ib.

Soup and boulee with cabbage 35

A West-India pepper pot ib.

Hare soup 36

Partridge soup ib.

Onion soup 37

Another onion soup ib.

White onion soup 38

Spanish onion soup ib.

Another Spanish onion soup ib.

Chesnut soup 39

Rice soup ib.

Another rice soup 40

Ox cheek soup ib.

Ox cheek soup baked 41

Hotch-potch 42

Another hotch-potch ib.

Breast of veal in hotch-potch 43

Hotch-potch of mutton ib.

Mutton broth 44

Barley broth ib.

Scotch barley broth 45

Veal broth ib.

Beef broth ib.

Crawfish soup 46

Lobster soup ib.

Scaite, or Thornback soup 47

Oyster soup ib.

Eel soup 48

Muscle soup ib.

Milk soup 49

Milk soup the Dutch and German way ib.

Egg soup 50

Turnip soup ib.

Soup maigre ib.

Plum porridge 51

Common plum porridge for Christmas 52

Portable soup ib.

CHAP. III.—FISH.

Proper rules to be observed in dressing fish 53

To dress a turtle the West-India way 54

Another way to dress a turtle 56

Sturgeon in imitation of turtle 58

To boil a turbot ib.

To dress a turbot the Dutch way 59

To bake a turbot ib.

To boil a cod's head 60

To roast a cod's head ib.

To bake a cod's head 61

To stew a cod's head in claret ib.

To boil cod or codlings 62

To crimp cod ib.

To boil crimp cod ib.

To broil crimp cod 63

To fricasee cod ib.

To fry small codlings 64

To boil salmon ib.

Salmon au court Bouillon ib.

Salmon a la braise 65

To boil a jowl of pickled salmon ib.

To colver salmon 66

To boil colver salmon ib.

To broil salmon ib.

To broil salmon in paper 66

To boil fresh or salt water trout 67

To dress trout the Dutch way ib.

To boil cod's sounds ib.

To broil cod's sounds 68

To fricasee cod's sounds ib.

To boil scaite or thornback ib.

To crimp scaite or thornback 69

To boil crimped scaite or thornback ib.

To fry crimped scaite or thornback ib.

To stew scaite or thornback ib.

To fricasee scaite or thornback 70

To boil sturgeon ib.

To roast sturgeon 71

To roast a collar of sturgeon ib.

To bake a collar of sturgeon 72

To stew hollybert ib.

To boil a John-a-dore 73

To boil a brill ib.

To boil soles ib.

To dress soles the Dutch way 74

To fry soles ib.

To stew soles ib.

To fricasee soles white 75

To fricasee soles brown ib.

To broil red mullet 76

[Page] To boil grey mullet Page 76

To broil grey mullet ib.

To broil weavers 77

To boil mackrel ib.

To broil mackrel ib.

Mackrel a la maitre de hotel ib.

To boil whitings 78

To broil whitings ib.

To fry whitings ib.

To boil haddocks 79

To broil haddocks ib.

To fry haddocks ib.

To dress haddocks the Spanish way 80

To dress haddocks the Jews way ib.

To boil pipers or gurnets 81

To boil herrings ib.

To broil herrings ib.

To fry herrings ib.

To fry smelts 82

White bait ib.

To broil sprats ib.

To boil plaice or flounders ib.

To fry plaice or flounders 83

To boil barrel or salt cod ib.

To boil salt ling 84

To dress bacaloa or tusk ib.

To broil dried salmon ib.

To boil Scotch or salt haddocks ib.

To broil dried whitings 85

British or pickled herrings boiled ib.

To boil a pike ib.

To roast or bake a pike 86

To boil carp or tench ib.

To fry carp or tench ib.

Another way to fry carp or tench 87

To bake carp 88

Carp au blue Page 88

To stew carp or tench 89

To stew carp or tench another way ib.

To boil perch 90

Perch in water souchee ib.

To fry perch 91

To fry lampreys ib.

To stew lampreys 92

To boil eels ib.

To fry eels ib.

To broil eels 93

To pitchcock eels ib.

To roast eels and lampreys ib.

To stew eels 94

Another way to stew eels 95

To stew eels with broth ib.

To farce eels with white sauce ib.

To make a collar of fish in ragou 96

To boil lobsters 97

To broil lobsters ib.

To roast a lobster ib.

To stew lobsters ib.

To ragou lobsters 98

To butter lobsters ib.

To dish of cold lobsters ib.

To butter a crab 99

To dress a crab ib.

To dish crawfish ib.

To dish prawns 100

To stew scollops ib.

To fricasee scollops ib.

To stew oysters 101

To ragou oysters ib.

Scollopped oysters 102

To stew muscles ib.

To stew muscles another way 103

To stew cockles ib.

To stew crawfish, prawns, or shrimps ib.

CHAP. IV.—SAUCES.

Gravy 104

Gravy for white sauces ib.

Gravy for a fowl when you have no meat 105

Brown gravy for fish ib.

White gravy for fish, sauces, &c. ib.

Gravy for venison 106

Sweet sauces for venison or hares 106

Force-meat balls for real or mock turtle ib.

Egg balls 107

Browning for made dishes, &c. ib.

Lobster sauce ib.

Oyster sauce for fish 108

[Page] Oyster sauce for boiled turkey, fowls, or any white meat Page 108

Shrimp sauce ib.

Anchovy sauce 109

Muscle sauce ib.

Cockle sauce ib.

Melted butter ib.

White celery sauce 110

Brown celery sauce ib.

Onion sauce for boiled rabbits, ducks, geese, &c. ib.

Spanish onion sauce ib.

Gallentine Sauce 111

Bread sauce ib.

Sauces for a pig ib.

Green sauce for green geese, ducklings, &c. 112

Sorrel sauce ib.

Fennel sauce ib.

Parsley sauce Page 112

Egg sauce 113

Apple sauce ib.

Mint sauce ib.

Caper sauce ib.

Poveroy sauce ib.

Carrier sauce 114

Gooseberry sauce ib.

White sauce for boiled fowls or chickens ib.

Mock oyster sauce ib.

White mushroom sauce ib.

Brown mushroom sauce 115

Pickled mushroom sauce ib.

Sauce for roast rabbits ib.

White sauce for a hare ib.

Lemon sauce for boiled fowls 116

Another sauce for boiled fowls ib.

Sauce robart ib.

Fin sauce ib.

CHAP. V.—BOILING.

Proper rules to be observed in boiling Page 116

To boil a haunch or neck of venison 118

Hams ib.

Tongues 119

Beef ib.

Mutton 120

Veal ib.

Breast of veal ib.

Calves head ib.

Lamb 121

Pork ib.

Turkies ib.

Fowls Page 122

Chickens ib.

Chickens with bacon and celery 123

Chickens and tongues ib.

Goose ib.

Ducks 124

Ducks boiled the French way ib.

Pigeons ib.

Rabbits ib.

Pheasants 125

Partridges ib.

Woodcocks or snipes ib.

Plovers 126

CHAP. VI.—ROASTING.

Proper rules to be observed in roasting 126

Beef 128

Mutton ib.

Lamb 129

Fillet of veal ib.

Loin of veal ib.

Pork 130

Tongue and udder ib.

Venison 131

Haunch of mutton ib.

Leg of mutton with oysters 132

Leg or shoulder of mutton ib.

Pigs ib.

Hind quarter of a pig dressed lamb fashion 134

A fawn 134

Ham or gammon of bacon ib.

Ox palates 135

Calf's liver 136

Hare ib.

Rabbits hare fashion ib.

Rabbits 137

Turkey ib.

Turkey with chesnuts ib.

Turkey the Hamburgh way 138

Green geese ib.

Goose 139

Ducklings ib.

Ducks ib.

Fowls 140

Fowls the German way ib.

[Page] Fowls with chesnuts Page 140

Chickens 141

Chickens with cucumbers ib.

Pheasants 142

Partridges ib.

Fowl pheasant fashion ib.

Wild ducks ib.

Woodcocks and snipes 143

Ortolans ib.

Ruffs and reefs 144

Larks the Dunstable way page 144

Guinea fowl ib.

Pigeons 145

Plovers ib.

Wheat-ears ib.

Ox heart ib.

Calf's heart 146

Veal sweetbreads ib.

Quails ib.

CHAP. VII.—BAKING.

Rump of beef Page 147

Ribs of beef 148

Toad in hole ib.

Leg of beef ib.

Calf's head ib.

Calf's head the Dutch way 149

Lamb and rice Page 150

Pig ib.

Fillet of veal ib.

Ox heart ib.

Herrings 151

Sprats ib.

CHAP. VIII.—BROILING.

Proper rules to be observed in broiling 151

Fowls and chickens 152

Pigeons ib.

Beef steaks 153

Beef steaks the French way ib.

Mutton chops ib.

Cutlets maintenon ib.

Pork chops 154

Veal cutlets ib.

Veal cutlets maintenon ib.

Veal chops 155

Lamb chops ib.

Potatoes ib.

Leg of turkey or fowls ib.

Calf's heart ib.

CHAP. IX.—FRYING.

Proper rules to be observed in frying 156

Beef steaks ib.

Mutton chops 157

Lamb chops ib.

Another way ib.

Lambs fry ib.

Pigs ears 158

Veal steaks ib.

Cold veal ib.

Cold fowl, pigeon, or rabbit 159

Tripe ib.

Sausages ib.

Potatoes 160

Artichokes ib.

Celery ib.

Cauliflowers 161

Eggs ib.

Oysters ib.

Calf's liver and bacon 162

CHAP. X.—STEWS AND HASHES.

Proper rules to be observed in stewing and hashing 162

Rump of beef ib.

Rump of beef another way 163

Rump or brisket of beef the French way ib.

Beef gobbots 164

Beef the Portugal way 165

Beef steaks ib.

Beef with cucumbers 166

Neats tongues whole ib.

Breast of venison 166

Breast of venison another way 167

Knuckle of veal ib.

Knuckle of veal with rice ib.

Calf or lamb's head 168

Fillet of veal 169

Veal and peas ib.

Turkey stewed brown 170

Another way ib.

Turkey with celery 171

Fowl ib.

[Page] Fowl with celery Page 171

Fowl with rice 172

Fowl or chicken the Dutch way ib.

Chickens 173

Chickens another way ib.

Chickens the Scotch way ib.

Pheasant 174

Pigeons ib.

Geese giblets 175

Ducks giblets ib.

Hare ib.

Jugged hare 176

Calf's feet ib.

Calf's head hashed brown 177

Calf's head hashed white Page 178

Calf's heart hashed ib.

Hashed veal ib.

Minced veal ib.

Hashed hare 179

Hashed venison ib.

Hashed beef ib.

Hashed mutton 180

Wild fowl hashed ib.

Turkey or fowl hashed ib.

Woodcocks or snipes hashed 181

Pheasants and partridges hashed ib.

Pigs petty toes ib.

CHAP. XI.—MADE DISHES.

Proper rules to be observed in made dishes 182

A brown cullis 183

A white cullis 184

A beshemell ib.

Rump of beef a la doube ib.

Rump of beef a la braize 185

A rolled rump of beef 186

Surloin of beef in epigram 187

The inside of a surloin of beef forced ib.

To force a rump of beef ib.

Rump of beef in epigram 188

Beef a la mode ib.

Beef a la mode in pieces 189

Beef escarlot ib.

Beef a la royale 190

Beef tremblongue ib.

Beef olives 191

Herrico of beef tails 192

Beef collops ib.

A fillet of beef ib.

Neat's tongue forced 193

Cow's udder forced ib.

Beef steaks rolled 194

Loin of veal in epigram ib.

Leg of veal and bacon in disguise 195

Bombarded veal ib.

Fillet of veal with collops 196

Shoulder of veal a la piedmontoise ib.

Veal a la burgoise 197

Neck of veal a la royale ib.

Neck of veal a la braize ib.

Neck of veal a la glaize 198

Fricandenx of veal 199

Veal olives ib.

Veal olives another way 200

Veal olives the French way ib.

Veal blanquets 201

Veal rolls ib.

Pilloc of veal ib.

Pilloc the Indian way 202

Pilloc another way ib.

Curric of veal ib.

Porcupine of a breast of veal 203

A savory dish of veal 204

Breast of veal collared ib.

Fricandillas of veal 205

Tenderoons of veal ib.

Tenderoons another way 206

Italian collops ib.

Italian collops white ib.

Scotch collops 207

White collops ib.

Scotch collops a la Francoise 208

Calf's head surprise ib.

Ham a la braize 209

Shoulder of mutton in epigram 210

Shoulder of mutton surprise ib.

Leg of mutton a la royale ib.

Leg of mutton a la hoût goût 211

Shoulder of mutton with a ragou of turneps ib.

To stuff a leg or shoulder of mutton 212

Oxford John ib.

Mutton the Turkish way 213

A basque of mutton ib.

[Page] To collar a breast of mutton Page 214

Mutton kebobbed ib.

Neck of mutton called the hasty dish 215

Mutton a la blaize ib.

Mutton chops in disguise 216

Herrico of mutton ib.

Mutton the French way 217

Another French way called St. Menehout ib.

Loin of mutton forced 218

Breast of mutton grilled ib.

Mutton rumps a la braize ib.

Mutton rumps with rice 219

Lamb's head ib.

To force a leg of lamb 220

Lamb cutlets with fin sauce ib.

Lamb chops in casorole ib.

Lamb chops larded 221

Shoulder of lamb a la salpicon ib.

Breasts of lamb a la paitrine 222

Neck of lamb a la glaize ib.

Ribs of lamb en gardinere 223

Lambs ears in beshemel ib.

Calves ears in beshemel ib.

Barbicued pig 224

A pig the French way 225

A pig au pere douillet ib.

A pig matelote 226

Pork cutlets sauce Robart 227

Herrico of venison ib.

A goose a la mode 228

Ducks a la mode ib.

Ducks a la braize 229

Duck with green peas ib.

Duck with cucumbers 230

Sweetbreads of veal a la dauphin ib.

Sweetbreads en gardiniere 231

Sweetbreads a la glaize ib.

Sweetbreads au beshemel 232

Turkey a la doube ib.

Turkey a la braize Page 233

Turkey a la glaize ib.

Peregoe turkey 234

Fowl a la braize ib.

Fowl a la farce 235

Fowl a la glaize ib.

Pullets a la St. Menehout 236

To marinate fowls ib.

Fowl frangas incopadas 237

Chickens a la braize ib.

Chickens chiringrate 238

Chickens surprise 239

Artificial chickens or pigeons ib.

Pulled chickens 240

Pigeons a la doube ib.

Pigeons au poire 241

Pigeons stoved ib.

Pigeons surtout 242

Pigeons compote ib.

French pupton of pigeons 243

Pigeons transmographied ib.

Pigeons in fricandeux ib.

Pigeons with a farce 244

Pigeons a la soussel ib.

Pigeons in pimlico 245

Jugged pigeons ib.

Pigeons a la Italienne 246

Partridge a la braize 247

Partridge panes ib.

Pheasants a la braize 248

Florentine hare 249

To scare a hare ib.

Hare civet 250

Rabbits surprise ib.

Rabbits in cassarole 251

Florendine rabbits ib.

Portugal chickens ib.

Currey of chickens 252

Larks pear fashion ib.

Woodcocks or snipes in a surtout 253

To salmee woodcocks or snipes ib.

To salmee a wild duck, or any sort of wild fowl ib.

Macaroni a la parmazan 254

A mock turtle ib.

CHAP. XII.—RAGOUS.

Beef 255

Ox palates 256

Neck of veal ib.

Breast of veal 257

Another way ib.

Sweetbreads 258

Leg of mutton 258

Livers ib.

Pigs feet and ears 259

Lamb ib.

Lamb another way 260

Breast of lamb ib.

[Page] CHAP. XIII.—FRICASEES.

Neat's tongue Page 261

Ox palates ib.

Lamb cutlets 262

Lamb stones and sweetbreads ib.

Tripe ib.

Another way 263

Tripe a la Kilkenny ib.

Chickens brown 264

Chickens white ib.

Rabbits brown Page 264

Rabbits white 265

Pigeons brown ib.

Pigeons white 266

Pigeons the Italian way ib.

Eggs 267

Calves feet and chaldron the Italian way ib.

CHAP. XIV.—ROOTS AND VEGETABLES.

Proper rules to be observed in dressing roots and vegetables 268

Greens and sprouts ib.

Cabbages 269

Cauliflowers ib.

Another way ib.

Broccoli 270

Spinach ib.

Carrots ib.

Turneps 271

Parsneps ib.

Mashed parsneps ib.

Potatoes ib.

Mashed potatoes 272

Windsor beans ib.

French beans ib.

Asparagus 273

Artichokes ib.

Green peas ib.

Mushrooms broiled 274

Mushrooms stewed ib.

Mushroom fricasseed ib.

Mushrooms ragoued ib.

Peas and lettuces stewed 275

Peas stewed another way ib.

Peas Francedil;oise ib.

Green peas with cream ib.

Cucumbers stewed 276

Cucumbers stewed another way ib.

Cucumbers in ragou 277

Cucumbers a la farce ib.

Skirrets fricaseed 278

Asparagus a la petit poy ib.

Asparagus in ragou ib.

Asparagus the Italian way 279

Asparagus in French rolls ib.

French beans in ragou ib.

Beans in ragou with a farce 280

French beans ragoued with cabbage 280

French beans ragoued with parsneps 281

French beans ragoued with potatoes ib.

Kidney beans in ragou ib.

White kidney beans fricaseed 282

Fndive in ragou ib.

Chardoons stewed 283

Chardoons tried and buttered ib.

Chardoons a la petit pois ib.

Chardoons a la fromage 284

Artichoke bottoms fricasee ib.

Artichoke bottoms a la cap ib.

Artichokes au barigoult 285

Broccoli in sallad ib.

Cauliflowers in ragou ib.

Cauliflowers stewed ib.

Cauliflowers d' [...]panole 286

Green Truffles boiled ib.

Green Truffles stewed ib.

Green Truffles a la Itali [...]ane ib.

Green Morels stewed 287

Green Morels fricasee ib.

Green Morels forced ib.

Cabbage forced 288

Cabbage farce maigre 289

Savoys forced and stewed ib.

Red cabbages a la Haslang 290

Spinach stewed ib.

Spinach a la cream ib.

Parsneps stewed ib.

Celery in ragou 291

Celery a la cream ib.

Celery stewed ib.

Sorrel stewed ib.

Potatoes in imitation of a collar of veal or mutton 292

Potatoe cakes ib.

Onions in ragou ib.

[Page]

CHAP. XV.—AUMLETS AND EGGS.

Plain aumlet Page 293

Aumlet with sweet herbs ib.

Aumlet with asparagus ib.

Aumlet with green peas 294

Aumlet with sorrel or spinach ib.

Aumlet with Parmazan cheese ib.

Aumlet of beans ib.

A pretty dish of eggs ib.

Eggs a la tripe 295

Eggs in ragou ib.

Eggs poached 296

Eggs buttered with a toast ib.

Eggs and collops fried ib.

Eggs with bread Page 297

Eggs forced ib.

Eggs with lettuces ib.

Eggs with stewed spinach ib.

Eggs with sorrel 298

Eggs with broccoli ib.

Eggs with asparagus ib.

Eggs fried as round as balls ib.

An egg as big as twenty 299

Whites of eggs a la cream ib.

Eggs with gravy ib.

Eggs in marinate ib.

CHEESE.

Ramaquins of cheese 300

Ramaquins on toasts ib.

Cheese in fondeux 301

Stewed cheese ib.

Wel [...]h rabbit 301

Scotch rabbit ib.

English rabbit 302

CHAP. XVI—PUDDINGS.

Proper rules to be observed in making puddings 302

Steak pudding 303

Pigeon pudding 304

Ox pith pudding ib.

Calf's foot pudding ib.

Hunting pudding 305

Plum pudding boiled ib.

Plum pudding baked 306

Suet pudding boiled ib.

Yorkshire pudding ib.

Marrow pudding 307

Marrow pudding another way ib.

Vermicelli pudding 308

Oat pudding ib.

New college puddings ib.

Orange pudding 309

Orange pudding a second way ib.

Orange pudding a third way ib.

Orange pudding a fourth way 310

Lemon pudding ib.

Lemon pudding a second way 311

Almond pudding baked ib.

Almond pudding boiled ib.

Ipsmuch almond pudding 312

Sago pudding ib.

Millet pudding 313

Carrot pudding ib.

Carrot pudding a second way ib.

Rice pudding 314

Rice pudding a second way ib.

Rice pudding a third way 314

Rice pudding a fourth way 315

Rice pudding boiled ib.

Rice pudding boiled a second way 316

Simolina rice pudding ib.

Spinach pudding ib.

Quaking pudding 317

Cream pudding ib.

Oatmeal pudding 318

Custard pudding boiled ib.

Custard pudding baked ib.

Flour pudding 319

Batter pudding ib.

Batter pudding another way 320

Grateful pudding ib.

Bread pudding ib.

Bread pudding a second way ib.

Bread pudding a third way 321

Bread pudding baked ib.

Bread and butter pudding 322

Transparent pudding ib.

Puddings in little dishes ib.

Sweetmeat pudding 323

Ratifia pudding ib.

Plain pudding ib.

Chesnut pudding 324

Cowslip pudding ib.

Apricot pudding ib.

Quence pudding 325

Italian pudding ib.

[Page] Pearl barley pudding Page 325

Pearl barley pudding a second way 326

French barley pudding ib.

Apple pudding baked ib.

Apple pudding boiled 327

Pruen pudding ib.

Spoonful pudding ib.

Citron puddings 328

Lemon tower pudding ib.

Potatoe pudding ib.

Potatoe pudding a second way 329

Potatoe pudding a third way ib.

Yam pudding ib.

Flour hasty pudding 330

Oatmeal hasty pudding Page 330

Almond puddings in skins ib.

Tansey pudding boiled 331

Tansey pudding with almonds ib.

Tansey pudding baked 332

Little cheese curds puddings ib.

Suet dumplins 333

Suet dumplins a second way ib.

Yeast dumplins ib.

Norfolk dumplins ib.

Hard dumplins 334

Hard dumplins a second way ib.

Apple dumplings 334

Apple dumplings a second way 335

CHAP. XVII.—PIES.

Proper rules to be observed in making and baking pies 335

Puff paste 336

Tart paste ib.

Tart paste another way ib.

Raising paste 337

Another raising paste ib.

Rubbed paste ib.

Dripping paste 338

Crackling paste ib.

Shrewsbury paste ib.

Crocant paste ib.

Gum paste 339

Venison pasty ib.

Beef steak pie 340

Mutton pie ib.

Ox cheek pie 341

Cheshire pork pie ib.

Devonshire squab pie ib.

Shropshire pie 342

Ham and chicken pie ib.

Sweet veal or lamb pie 343

Veal pie ib.

Lamp pie 344

Veal or lamb pie raised ib.

Veal olive pie 345

Calf's foot pie ib.

Calf's head pie 346

Swan pie ib.

Yorkshire Christmas pie 347

Goose pie 348

Turkey pie with green truffles 349

Chicken pie ib.

Duck pie 350

Pigeon pie ib.

Pigeon pie raised 351

Giblet pie ib.

Rabbit pie ib.

Hare pie 352

Patty gou de vou ib.

Gou de vou pie 353

Beef steak patty ib.

Sweetbread patty ib.

Peregord pie 354

Little mutton pies 355

Turbot pie ib.

Salmon pie ib.

Salt fish pie 356

Sole pie ib.

Carp pie ib.

Tench and eel pie 357

Eel pie ib.

Flounder pie 358

Herring pie ib.

Lobster pie ib.

Muscle pie 359

Fish pasties the Italian way ib.

Mince meat 360

Lent mince pie 361

Florendine of veal ib.

Cheese curd florendine 362

Florendine of apples and oranges ib.

Tort de moy ib.

Artichoke pie 363

Potatoe pie ib.

Onion pie 364

Skirret pie ib.

Savory egg pie ib.

Sweet egg pie 365

Green coddling pie ib.

Apple pie 366

Gooseberry pie ib.

Currant and raspberry pie ib.

Morella cherry pie ib.

[Page] PETTIT PATTIES.

Force-meat patties Page 367

Chicken, turkey, or veal patties ib.

Fish patties 368

Oyster patties Page 368

Oyster loaves ib.

Lobster patties 369

Fried patties ib.

TARTS, TARTLETS, AND PUFFS.

Orange or lemon tarts 370

Green apricot tarts 371

Green almond tarts ib.

Rhubarb tarts 372

Angelica tarts ib.

I [...]ing for tarts ib.

Apple tartlets 373

Rasberry tartlets ib.

Apricot tartlets ib.

Apple puffs 374

Rasberry puffs ib.

Apricot puffs ib.

Curd puffs 375

Sugar puffs ib.

Chocolate puffs ib.

Almond puffs ib.

Lemon puffs 376

CHAP. XVIII.—PANCAKES AND FRITTERS.

Cream pancakes 376

Fine pancakes 377

Fine pancakes a second way ib.

A third way ib.

Milk pancakes ib.

Common pancakes 378

A quire of paper pancakes ib.

Rice pancakes ib.

Tansey pancakes ib.

Pink-coloured pancakes 379

Apple fritters ib.

Apple fritters a second way ib.

Fine fritters 380

Fritters royal 380

Hasty fritters 381

Curd fritters ib.

Skirret fritters ib.

White fritters 382

Syringed fritters ib.

Vine leaf fritters 383

Clary fritters ib.

Potatoe fritters ib.

Apple fraze 384

Almond fraze ib.

Bacon fraze 385

CHAP. XIX.—CHEESECAKES AND CUSTARDS.

Fine cheesecakes 385

Common cheesecakes 386

Citron cheesecakes 387

Lemon cheesecakes ib.

Lemon cheesecakes a second way ib.

Almond cheesecakes 388

Plain cheesecakes 388

Rice cheesecakes ib.

Maids of honour 389

Fine custards ib.

Plain custards ib.

Almond custards 390

Orange custards ib.

CHAP. XX.—BLANC'MANGE, CREAMS, AND FLUMMERY.

Blanc'mange 391

Blanc'mange a second way ib.

Blanc'mange a third way 392

Steeple cream ib.

Lemon cream 393

Lemon cream a second way ib.

Orange cream a second way 394

Rhenish cream ib.

Jelly of cream ib.

Pistachio cream 395

Pistachio cream a second way 395

Hartshorn cream ib.

Almond cream 396

Ratifia cream ib.

Barley cream ib.

Gooseberry cream 397

Lute cream ib.

Whipt cream ib.

Cloured cream 398

Quince cream ib.

[Page] Citron cream Page 398

Rasberry cream ib.

Snow and cream 399

Ice cream ib.

Hartshorn flummery 400

Hartshorn flummery, a second way ib.

Oatmeal flummery Page 401

French flummery ib.

Hedge-hog ib.

Eggs and bacon in flummery 402

Fairy butter ib.

Orange butter 403

CHAP. XXI.—JELLIES AND SYLLABUBS.

Hartshorn jelly 403

Calf's feet jelly 404

Jelly for moulds, &c. ib.

Savory jelly 405

Orange jelly 406

Ribband jelly ib.

Green mellon in jelly 407

Fruit in jelly ib.

Gold fish in jelly 408

Hen's nest in jelly ib.

Red currant jelly ib.

Black currant jelly 409

Turkey in jelly ib.

Chicken in jelly 410

Lobster or crayfish in jelly ib.

Whipt syllabubs ib.

Solid syllabubs ib.

Everlasting syllabubs 411

Syllabub under the cow ib.

Lemon syllabubs 412

Trifle ib.

Floating island 412

CHAP. XXII.—DIRECTIONS FOR THOSE THAT ATTEND THE SICK.

Mutton broth 413

To boil a scrag of veal 414

Beef or mutton broth, for very weak people who take but little nourishment ib.

Beef drink, which is ordered for weak people ib.

Beef tea ib.

Pork broth ib.

To boil a chicken 415

To boil pigeons ib.

To boil a partridge, or any other wild fowl 416

To boil a plaice, or flounder ib.

To mince veal, or chicken, for the sick or weak people ib.

To pull a chicken for the sick 417

Chicken broth ib.

Chicken water ib.

White caudle 418

Brown caudle ib.

Water gruel ib.

Panada ib.

To boil sago 419

To boil salop ib.

Isinglass jelly ib.

The pectoral drink ib.

Buttered water, or what the Germans call egg-soup, who are very fond of it for supper ib.

Seed water 420

Bread soup, for the sick ib.

Artificial asses milk ib.

Cows milk next to asses milk, done thus ib.

A good drink 421

Barley water ib.

Sage tea ib.

For a child ib.

Liquor for a child that has the thrush ib.

To boil comfrey roots 422

The knuckle broth ib.

A medicine for a disorder in the bowels ib.

CHAP. XXIII.—DIRECTIONS FOR SEAFARING MEN.

Catchup to keep twenty years 423

Fish sauce to keep the whole year ib.

To pot dripping, to fry fish meat fritters &c. 424

To pickle mushrooms for the sea 424

Mushroom powder ib.

To keep mushrooms without pickle 425.

To keep artichoke bottoms dry ib.

[Page] To fry artichoke bottoms, Page 425

To ragou artichoke bottoms 426

To dress fish ib.

To bake fish ib.

A gravy soup 426

Peas soup ib.

Pork pudding, or beef 427

A rice pudding ib.

A suet pudding 428

A liver pudding boiled ib.

Oatmeal pudding Page 428

To bake an oatmeal pudding ib.

A rice pudding baked 429

A harrico of French beans ib.

A fowl pie ib.

A Cheshire pork pie for sea 430

Sea venison ib.

Dumplings, when you have white bread 431

Chouder ib.

CHAP. XXIV.—PRESERVING.

Rules to be observed in preserving 432

Oranges 433

Lemons 434

Gooseberries ib.

Rasberries 435

Red currants 436

White currants ib.

Green codlings ib.

Golden pippins 437

Grapes ib.

Walnuts white 438

Walnuts green ib.

Walnuts black ib.

Green-gage Plums 439

Damsons 439

Damsons for tarts 440

Morella cherries ib.

Strawberries ib.

Pine apples 441

Barberries 442

Quinces ib.

Peaches 443

Apricots ib.

Cucumbers 444

Rasberry jam ib.

Apricot jam ib.

Strawberry jam 445

Black currant jam ib.

CHAP. XXV.—SYRUPS AND CONSERVES.

Syrup of quinces 445

Syrup of roses 446

Syrup of citron ib.

Syrup of clove gilliflowers ib.

Syrup of peach blossoms ib.

Conserve of red roses, or any other flowers 447

Conserve of hips ib.

Conserve of orange-peel ib.

CHAP. XXVI.—DRYING AND CANDYING.

To dry cherries 448

Cherries with their leaves and stalks green ib.

To dry cherries a third way ib.

To dry cherries a fourth way 449

To dry peaches ib.

To dry plums 450

To dry damsons ib.

To dry plums green 451

To dry apricots ib.

Lemon and orange peel candied ib.

Melon citron candied 452

Angelica candied 452

Cassia candied ib.

Orange marmalade 453

Apricot marmalade ib.

Red quince marmalade ib.

White quince marmalade 454

Rasberry paste ib.

Currant paste ib.

Gooseberry paste 455

Orange chips ib.

Apricot chips ib.

Ginger tablet 456

CHAP. XXVII—CAKES.

Proper rules to be observed in making cakes 456

Icing for cakes 457

A rich cake ib.

[Page] Plum cake Page 458

A pound cake ib.

Seed cake ib.

White plum cakes 459

Butter cake ib.

Rice cakes 460

Cream cakes ib.

A fine seed or saffron cake ib.

Nuns cake 461

Pepper cakes ib.

Portugal cakes 461

A pretty cake 462

Little fine cakes ib.

Shrewsbury cakes ib.

Maudling cakes 463

Little plum cakes ib.

Carraway cakes ib.

Sugar cakes 464

Almond cakes ib.

Uxbridge cakes Page 464

Bride cake 465

Prussian cakes ib.

Apricot cakes 466

Quince cakes ib.

Orange cakes ib.

Bath cakes 467

Black caps ib.

Green caps ib.

Gingerbread cakes 468

[...]roon cakes ib.

Lemon biscuits ib.

French biscuits 468

Drop biscuits 469

Common biscuits ib.

Sponge biscuits ib.

Spanish biscuits 470

Light wigs ib.

Buns ib.

CHAP. XXVIII.—HOGS PUDDINGS, SAUSAGES, &c.

Almond hogs puddings 470

Another way 471

A third way ib.

Hogs puddings with currants 472

Black puddings ib.

Savoloys 473

Fine sausages 473

Common sausages 474

Oxford sausages ib.

Bologna sausages ib.

Andouilles, or cakes chitterlings 475

CHAP. XXIX.—POTTING.

Proper rules to be observed in potting 475

Venison 476

Beef ib.

Beef like venison 477

Tongues ib.

Tongue and fowl 478

Hare 479

Goose ib.

Turkey ib.

Chickens or pidgeons 480

Moor game or pheasants 480

Woodcocks or snipes ib.

Wheat-ears, larks, &c. 481

Marble veal ib.

Savory veal cake 482

Salmon ib.

Pike 483

Chars ib.

Lampreys 484

Eels ib.

Lobsters ib.

LITTLE COLD DISHES.

Salamungundy 485

Dutch or hung beef 486

Dutch or hung beef on tops and bottoms 486

Dutch or British herring ib.

Ham ib.

CHAP. XXX.—CARVING.

To cut up a turkey 486

To rear a goose 487

To unbrace a mallard or duck ib.

To unlace a cony ib.

To wing a partridge or quail ib.

To allay a pheasant or teal 488

To dismember a hern ib.

To thigh a woodcock ib.

To display a crane ib.

To list a swan ib.

[Page] CHAP. XXXI.—COLLARING.

Beef Page 489

Breast of veal ib.

Gallentine of a breast of veal 490

Venison ib.

Calf's head Page 491

Pig ib.

Salmon 492

Eels ib.

CHAP. XXXII.—SALTING AND SOUSING.

Pork hams 493

Beef hams 494

Veal hams ib.

Mutton hams ib.

Tongues ib.

Dutch beef 495

Yorkshire hung beef ib.

Bacon ib.

Westphalia bacon 496

Pickled pork ib.

Sham brawn 497

A turkey soused, in imitation of sturgeon ib.

Pigs feet and ears soused 498

Mackrel soused ib.

CHAP. XXXIII—PICKLING.

Proper rules to be observed in pickling 498

White wine vinegar 499

Sugar vinegar ib.

Elder vinegar 500

Tarragon vinegar ib.

Walnuts green ib.

Walnuts white 501

Walnuts black 502

Gerkins 503

Large cucumbers in slices ib.

Asparagus 504

Peaches ib.

Radish pods 505

French beans ib.

Cauliflowers ib.

Beet-root 506

White plums ib.

Onions ib.

Lemons ib.

Mushrooms white 507

To make pickle for mushrooms ib.

Mushrooms brown ib.

Codlings 508

Fennel ib.

Grapes ib.

Barberries 509

Red cabbage 509

Golden pippins 510

Nasterti [...]m berries and limes ib.

Young suckers, or young artichokes before the leaves are hard ib.

Artichoke bottoms 511

Samphire ib.

Mock ginger ib.

Melon mangoes 512

Elder shoots in imitation of bamboo ib.

Indian pickle, or picca lillo ib.

Red currants 513

Ox palates 514

Cocks combs ib.

Purple cabbage ib.

Salmon 515

Sturgeon ib.

Mackrel, called caveach 516

Mock anchovies ib.

Smelts ib.

Oysters ib.

Cockles or muscles 517

Walnut ketchup ib.

Mushroom ketchup 518

Mushroom powder ib.

CHAP. XXXIV.—TO KEEP GARDEN VEGETABLES AND FRUITS.

To keep French beans all the year 519

To keep green peas till Christmas ib.

A second way to keep green peas 520

To keep red gooseberries ib.

To keep walnuts all the year ib.

[Page] Another way to keep lemons Page 521

To keep grapes ib.

To dry artichoke bottoms ib.

To Bottle green gooseberries ib.

To bottle green currants Page 522

To bottle damsons, white bullace, &c. ib.

To bottle cranberries ib.

CHAP. XXXV.—WINES.

Raisin wine 522

Elder wine 523

Orange wine ib.

Orange wine with raisins ib.

Elder flower wine, very like Frontiniac 524

Gooseberry wine ib.

Currant wine 525

Cherry wine ib.

Birch wine ib.

Quince wine 526

Cowslip, or clary wine ib.

Turnep wine 527

Rasberry wine ib.

Mead wine ib.

Blackberry wine 528

Damson wine 529

Grape wine ib.

Apricot wine ib.

Balm wine ib.

Mountain wine 530

Black cherry brandy ib.

Rasberry brandy ib.

Orange shrub ib.

CHAP. XXXVI.—CORDIAL WATERS.

Proper rules to be observed in making cordial waters 531

Walnut water ib.

Treacle water 532

Treacle water, Lady Monmouth's way ib.

Black cherry water 533

Hysterical water ib.

Red rose buds ib.

Plague water 534

Surfeit water ib.

Milk water 535

Stag's heart water 535

To make angelica water 536

Milk water a second way ib.

Cordial poppy water ib.

Peppermint water 537

Rose water ib.

Lavender water ib.

Aqua mirabilis ib.

Orange or lemon water 538

Piedmont water ib.

Nutmeg water ib.

Fever water ib.

CHAP. XXXVII.

BREWING 539

CHAP. XXXVIII.—BAKING.

English and French bread 555

English bread the London way ib.

Bread without yeast, by the help of a leaven ib.

French bread 556

Muffins 556

To preserve a large stock of yeast, which will keep and be of use for several months, for baking 557

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MARKETING.

Proper Rules to be observed in Marketing, for all Kinds of Provisions.

AS it is very interesting to the house-keeper, cook, or any other person that goes to market, if not well acquainted with the nature of it, to have ample instructions, it is proper to give the best in our power; a [...] very often by buying a thing that is not prime and good there are complaints against the dressing or sauce▪ and therefore it would be well for a person to read this part of marketing, which is given, before they go to bay: by that means it may prevent them from making mistakes, and give greater satisfaction to their employers and themselves.

BEEF.

In choosing of ox beef, observe that if the meat is young it will have a fine smooth open grain, of a pleasing carnation red, and when you pinch it, will feel tender; the fat must be rather white than yellow, [Page] and the suet white and firm; if it is very yellow it has been fed with oil cakes, or it is not good meat; if it feels rough and spongy, and nips hard, it is old, or nearly so. Heifer, or young cow beef, is closer grained, and the fat whiter than the ox [...] but the lean has not so bright a red; if you can see the udder try if there is any milk, or the teat open, if not you are sure it is young; bull beef has still a closer grain, and the lean of a deep red, the fat is skinny and hard, and has a rank smell; be sure to mind there are no bruises, if there is do not buy it, for if you salt it it will be sure to stink.

The different pieces in a bullock contain the head, tongue, and palate, the entrails are the kidney, shirts, and tripe; there is the double, the roll, and the reed tripe the heart, liver, and lights.

The fore quarter contains the haunch, which includes the [...]lod▪ marrow-bone, shin and the sticking pieces, that is the neck end: the next is the leg of mutton piece, which has part of the blade-bone in, then the chuck, the brisket, the fore rib, and middle or chuck rib.

The hind quarter contains the sirloin and rump, the thin and thick flank, the veiny piece, the ich bone, buttock, mouse buttock, and leg.

MUTTON.

If the mutton is young, the flesh will pinch tender, but if it is old it will pinch hard, and continue wrinkled, and the fat will be fibrous and clammy; if ewe mutton the flesh is paler than weather, a closer grain, and easily parting; if ram mutton the grain is closer, and the lean of a darker red, and the fat spongy; if there is a rot, the lean will be palish, and the fat a faint whitish colour, inclining to yellow, and if you squeeze it hard some drops of water will stand up like sweat; the best method is to examine the liver; if it is clear from knots, smooth and sound, you are sure the meat is good. Mutton, except in very hot weather, i [...] kept four or five days before it is [Page] drest, and most people choose the short shanked mutton. The different joints in a sheep are, the head and pluck▪ which includes the liver, lights, heart, melt, and sweet-breads. The fore quarter contains the shoulder, neck, and breast. The hind quarter the leg and loin, though two loins together make a chine; the two necks and part of the shoulder cut on them are the saddle, which are two fine joints, if the mutton is small and fat.

LAMB.

If the eye is bright and plump in the head, it is fresh, but if sunk and wrinkled and the head looks dry, it is stale. Mind if the vein in the neck looks of a fine azure blue, if so it is fresh: if it is green or yellow, and the meat looks dry▪ it is stale▪ in the hind quarter if there is a faint smell and feels clammy, and the knuckle limber, it is not fresh. House lamb is in season from the 1st of September, till July; grass lamb from Easter to October. The lamb contains the head and pluck, that is, the liver, lights, heart, nut, and melt, and the fry, which consists of the sweet-bread, stones, skirts, with a little of the liver; the shoulder, neck, and breast together is the fore-quarter, the leg and loin the find. In choosing lamb, be sure to mind it is very white; if it looks brown it will not dress half so well; be sure to buy the ewe leg for boiling, as the udder makes it look handsomer than the ram lamb.

VEAL.

In the choice of veal be sure to choose it fat and white, and observe when it i [...] cut that the juices follow the knife, then you are sure it is good meat and will dress well; if it is husky and dry it will eat so. The flesh of a cow-calf is whiter than bull, but the lean is not so firm▪ the fillet of the former is preferred on account of the udder. If the bloody vein in the shoulder looks blue or red, and when you squeeze [Page] it bleeds freely, it is fresh: but if it looks black or yellow, and the knuckle withered and dry, it is stale. The breast and neck taints first at the upper cud, which you will know by its looking yellow or green; rub your finger on, and if it smells musty don't buy it, but if it look red or bluish and has a good smell, it is fresh; the leg is known by its stiffness in the knuckle joint; if limber, and the flesh feels clammy, with yellow or green specks on, it is stale; if you smell under the fat or udder, it will smell of an agreeable flavour if fresh, if stale it will smell musty▪ the loin taints first under the kidnies. Put a skewer under the kidney, and if it comes out clean, and smells well▪ it is fresh; if slimy and smells musty, it is stale. Be sure to buy the close side if you can, as it dresses better, and eats [...] than the open side. If the head is fresh the eyes will be plump, and the veins in the neck end will look red; if otherwise it is stale. The pieces in a calf▪ are the head and inwards, which contains the heart, liver, lights, nut, and melt; the skirts, the throat, sweet-bread, and the wind-pipe, or heart sweet-bread, which is the best; the fore-quarter is the shoulder, neck, and breast; the hind-quarter is the leg, which contains the fillet, knuckle, and loin.

PORK.

You must be particularly careful in the choice of pork, for when it is measly it is very dangerous to be eaten. You will know whether it is measly by the following maxims: take and squeeze the lean between your hands, and if it is measly there will appear little specks like fishes eyes▪ and the inside of the throat, the liver, and lights, will be full of them, and the fat a very pale white; if young and good, the lean will break on pinching it, the skin very thin, and will dent by nipping it with your finger and thumb; the fat and lean of a fine white, like veal, and soft as velvet. If the lean is red and tough, and the fat [...]bby and spongy, and feels rough, it is old. If off [Page] a young boar, [...] a hog gelded, at its full growth, the lean will be hard, tough, red, and of a rank rammish smell. If the meat is cool, stiff, and smooth, it is fresh; if clammy or slimy, it is stale. Be sure to run your finger under the twist of the leg; if it is fresh you may be assured that the rest is so, as it gets musty there soonest. The pieces in a porker are the head and inwards, which is the heart, liver, lights, crow, kidnies, and skirt; the maw and guts, which are either made chitterlings, or cleansed for hogs puddings. The fore-quarter is the fore-loin and spring. The hind-quarter is the leg and hind-loin, or cut thus; cut a sparerib off the fore-quarter and the hand; cut the leg like a ham; then cut off the bellypiece to salt, and with a chopper cut it about an inch from the chine; cut it all through and take off the rind—the chine-bone makes a fine griskin, and the other the sweet-bone. A bacon hog is cut different for making hams and bacon; you can cut bald or spareribs, chines, and griskins, and plenty of flake, for hogs-lard; the haslet is very good roasted, and the feet and ears drest several ways. Pork is in season from the 1st of September till May.

VENISON.

As venison is the dearest article that is bought of flesh kind, so you should be more circumspect in the choice of it; the haunch is undoubtedly the finest. Run a skewer under the bone, and if it smells sweet, it is good; but be sure that the thick part or cushion does not [...]ook green, if it does it is struck and sti [...]ks all through; the inside of the shoulder will look red if fresh▪ if stale it will look black and green; the neck part stinks first on the side▪ and looks very green and clammy; run a skewer into the thick part of the neck, and if it smell sweet the neck is so; be sure choose it with the fat white and very thick on the haunch and neck; if you have occasion to keep it any length of time, and have an ice well, wipe it dry with a cloth, and pepper the inside well; put a [Page] sheet of paper all over it, and put it on the ice, and when it comes out hang it in the air two or three hours to take off the damp. If you should have it hanging in the air, and you perceive it is likely to lighten, be sure to carry it into a cellar where no lightening can get to it, for if it strikes it▪ it will stink in a few hours; the different parts are the head and umbles▪ the fry and chine, which is very good to make soup with; the haunch, the shoulder, and the side, which is the neck and breast. Buck venison comes in season about the 1st of June▪ and lasts till the middle of September. Doe venison comes in about the middle of October▪ and lasts till January likewise the heifer, which is a buck fawn cut while it is young. A buck should never be killed under seven years old, nor above nine.

BRAWN.

There are four forts of brawn, the Canterbury, Oxford, London, and Shrewsbury▪ the Shrewsbury is a very red colour, and the rolls thicker than any of the others. Canterbury is esteemed the finest, and is a pale colour; so i [...] the Oxford and London. It is known to be old by the thickness of the rind; if thick and hard it is old, but if moderate it is young. The rind and fat of barrow or sow brawn is very tender.

HAMS.

The Westphalia hams are cut longer▪ and are thinner than the English hams. The Westmoreland and Yorkshire are chose by the shortness of the shank and thickness in the cushion▪ put your trying or penknife under the bone▪ and if it comes out clean and has a good smell, it is sweet and good▪ but if it is daubed and has a rank smell, it is tainted and rusty, and be sure not to buy it.

BACON.

The Hampshire, Wiltshire, and Berkshire bacon is esteemed the best; if the lean is of a fine red, and [Page] sticks close to the bone, and the fat of a clear white, without any yellow streaks, and the rind thin▪ it is young and good: if any yellowness, or the fat of a faint dusky white, and feels soft, is rusty, or soon will be so.

TURKIES.

If the cock turkey is young, it will have smooth black legs with the spurs just appearing; if fresh the eyes will look [...] bright, and the velvet of a fine red, and the [...] moist and limber. Be careful to observe that the spurs are not cut, or scraped over to deceive you. If the eyes are sunk▪ and the head looks black, the feet dry and stiff, it is stale. The same rule will hold good for a hen: when old, her legs are rough and red; if with egg, the vent will be soft and open, but if not with egg, the vent will be close and hard.

CAPON.

A true capon, if young, his spurs are short and thick, his legs smooth, the comb large and pale, with a fat vein on each side his breast; very fat down the back and rump, and a thick belly, his body larger than any common fowl: if new a hard close vent, and the fat moist and limber; if stale a loose open vent▪ and the fat dry and stiff. A capon is the better for keeping four or five days.

FOWLS.

A young cock has very short spurs, his legs smooth, but take the same precaution as in turkies; if old his spurs will be long and sharp▪ and an open vent; if stale his feet will be dry and stiff; if fresh the vent close and hard, the feet limber and moist, and so of a hen for n [...]wness ar staleness: if old her legs and comb are rough, with long hairs all over the body; a pullet with egg is esteemed the best, a little before she begins to lay them she has a large open vent.

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CHICKENS.

The breast of the chickens, if well fed, have a fat vein on each side of it; a fat r [...]mp, and the breast feels as soft as velvet▪ if fresh the feet are moist and limber; if stale, dry and stiff, and the whiter they are the better.

GEESE.

A young goose has got a yellow bill and feet, with no hairs but stubs on them; when fresh the feet are limber, when stale dry and stiff▪ when old the bill and feet are very red, with long hairs all over the body. Green geese come in season in May, and last till Midsummer; the others are in season till Christmas. The green geese should be scaled, and the stubble geese picked dry. The same rules will hold good for a wild or bran goose, only this difference, their flesh is a great deal blacker.

DUCKS AND DUCKLINGS.

The breasts of ducklings or young ducks, if properly fed, will be plump and fleshy; by handling them you will know if they are so by the substance, because the poulterers flatten them on the breast▪ to make them look wider over; if fresh the feet will be limber; if stale dry and stiff. Old ducks legs are very red with hard scales at the bottom, and their bodies full of long hairs and yellow. Ducklings come in season in February, and should be scalded till May, and picked dry after that time.

WILD DUCKS.

A wild duck's feet are very small and red, the belly very plump, and if good [...]e fat on the rump is hard and white; if very yellow▪ it eats strong and fishy; if fresh the feet are moist and limber, if [...] the feet are dry and stiff, and the body looks black.

Easterlings, pintails, dun birds and teal are chosen the same way, only the feet are black.

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PHEASANTS.

The cock pheasant is the most beautiful wild bird that ever was bred in England, and both cock and hen are of a fine flavour; the cock if young has short dubbed spurs, but if old long and very sharp; the hen has none, but most valued; when with egg the vent is large and open; if the vent is loose and green they are stale. As this is game by act of parliament, they are not allowed to be in season only from the 1st of October to the 1st of February. Heathcocks and hens are known whether new or stale in the same manner.

PARTRIDGES.

The cock bird is the largest of the two, has dark red feathers on both sides the breast and wings, and when young the bills are of a dark colour, the legs yellowish; if they are fresh the vent will be firm, but if stale it will look green, and the skin will peel off when rubbed with the finger; if they are old the bills will be of a light colour, and the legs blue, be sure as you get there to draw the crop out, for if they have fed on green wheat they soon will stink. This game is allowed from the 1st of September to the 14th of February.

WOODCOCKS AND SNIPES.

These are birds of passage, and found in this country only in winter; they are better after a month's rest from their long passage over the ocean; and especially in frosty weather, as they feed by the clear springs that don't freeze; when fat they are firm and thick, with a fat vein on each side the breast, the thigh and rump fat, and a close vent; a lean one will have a loose vent; if fresh killed their feet will be limber, and the head and throat clean; if you open the bill and smell at the throat, it will soon tell whether it is fresh or stale.

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BUSTARDS.

These are the real wild turkey, and a very large heavy bird and very shy to come near to kill; consequently are very scarce. The same rules will hold good for the choice of these curious birds as is given for turkies.

PIGEONS.

When young they are not full feathered, their legs are of a dark colour, full and fat at the vent, and the feet limber; if the vent is loose and green they are stale; when old the legs are large and red. The Turnham Green pigeon is the finest and biggest of any. The tame pigeon is larger, and preferable to the wild; is very fat and tender, but the wild pigeons is not so fat. Wood pigeons are larger than the tame, and the feathers bluish, but in other respects like them.

WHEAT [...], LARKS, &c.

All sorts of small birds are chosen by the fatness of the breast and rump; and for newness or staleness by the feet being limber, if new; dry and stiff, if stale.

HARES.

When a hare is fresh it will look of a pale colour, and stiff; if it is stale, the flesh black, and the body limber; if the cleft in her lips spread very much, and the claws blunt and ragged, she is old; if the hare is young the claws will be smooth and sharp, the ears tear easily, and the cleft in the lips not spread much. The only distinction between a hare and a leveret is, that a leveret has a knob, or small bone near the foot on the fore-leg, if not it is a hare.

Hare hunting begins the 1st of October, and lasts till the 1st of March.

RABBITS.

The wool and claws of a rabbit when young are [Page] smooth; if old the claws are very long and rough, with grey hairs intermixt with the wool; if fresh it is stiff, and the flesh white and dry; and when stale the body will be limber, the flesh look blue, with a slime upon it. Wild rabbits are in season from July to December. Tame ones all the year.

FISH.

The best method to discover whether fish is new or stale is by looking at the gills, if they look of a lively red, and open tight▪ with the eyes standing plump in their heads, the body of the fish stiff, and the fins stand firm, you are sure they are fresh; but if the eyes are sunk, and the gills look dim, black, or muddy it is not good; and be sure to smell it at the gills or month. Fresh water fish is the best that are caught in running water. Pond fish is liable to eat muddy.

TURBOT.

You must choose a turbot by the thickness and plumpness of the belly, the gills of a find red, and the belly of a bright cream colour; if it is thin and looks bluish it will not dress nor eat well. Turbot are in high season from April to the latter end of August.

COD.

Choose a large or small cod that is thick and round in the body, and feels firm, the eyes bright and plump and the gills of a lively red, and the flesh looks white and clear when it is cut, then you are sure the fish is good▪ if it feels flabby, the eyes sunk, and the gills dim or muddy, it is not good nor fresh. Cod is in season all the winter.

WHITING.

The silver whiting when fresh, shines bright, and as white as silver, the eyes plump and lively, the gills of a [...]ue red, and tight, the body stiff and firm; [Page] when stale looks dim, the eyes shrunk, and the head withered and black, the gills black, and the body limber and flabby.

HADDOCKS.

When fresh they have a lively hue, rather inclined to black, their eyes full, bright and plump, they have a black [...] [...]n each side the back like the mark of a finger and thumb, their gills red and hard to open, and their bodies stiff; when stale the eyes are shrunk, and the head withered, the gills black, the body limber, and of a flat dusky colour.

SCAITE, OR THORNBACK.

Choose the thickest and whitest you can get; in cold weather it will be better the second or third day after it is brought to market alive, but in hot weather it must bee at fresh, it so soon stinks, and then it is very disagreeable, it smells so strong.

SALMON.

The scales of this fish when fresh and in high season▪ are very bright and clear, and the fins red, the flesh feels firm and of a fine red, head small, with very little spawn in the inside; when out of season it is full of red or yellow spots, the flesh pale and flabby, with the belly full of roe or melt, the head long, and the jaws turning at the ends, in that state it is not good. Salmon eats mellower when kept two or three days, than when it is quite fresh▪ for it boils [...]urdly when just dead. The Severn and the Wye salmon are esteemed very much, but whether that or the Thames is best is a matter of doubt, and mostly depends upon fancy.

STURGEON.

When sturgeon is fresh the meat cuts very white, firm, and without crumbling▪ the veins and gristles of a fine blue, the skin tender, good coloured and [Page] soft, of a fine pleasant smell; but when the veins and gristles are brown or yellow, the skin harsh, tough, and dry, of a strong disagreeable smell, the fish is not good.

SOLES.

When you buy soles choose them that are the thickest towards the head, and firm, the bellies of a fine cream colour, and alive if you can get them: if inclined to be bluish or flabby they are not good, nor will not eat well.

TROUT.

Fresh water trout is esteemed the best, they are red and yellow; the female is the best, which is known by the smallness of the head, and the belly deeper than the male; when fresh they look of a fine bright colour, their eyes plump and bright, and the gills red. The Berwick trout is long and straight, with fine bright scales, the flesh firm and red; this is esteemed the finest fish of the kind; they both come in season at the beginning of June and last till September.

CARP AND TENCH.

These fish should always be drest alive, for if they die in the water they are good for little; if out of the water mind the gills are fresh and red, and hard to open. The carp should be thick and plump, and the scales of a bright hue; the tench if good is of a gold colour; the same rules will hold good for pike, perch, and all sorts of fresh water fish except eels. The Thames eel is the best, having a fine silver belly; the Dutch and the Isle of Ely in general are not good, eat muddy and strong; they should always be dressed alive.

SMELTS.

When fresh, are of a fine silver hue, firm and stiff, [Page] with an agreeable smell resembling that of a cucumber; those caught in the river Thames are the best.

HERRINGS.

When their heads are of a fine red, the scales shine bright, and the body stiff, they are new; if the head is black and the scales dim, the body limber, they are stale. The British pickled herrings are fat, thick and the scales shine like glass that is broken; the red herrings are red, firm and dry, and all herrings should be full of roe, for when shotten they are good for nothing; fresh herrings are in season at Michaelmas, and when the mackarel first come in.

MACKAREL.

This is a very tender fish, and must be handled but very little; when fresh it looks of a most beautiful shining green, the eyes bright and full, the body firm and stiff, and the gills red and full of roe; when stale the body looks black, flabby and thin, the eyes shrunk and withered, and the gills black; the soft roe is esteemed the best; it is in season from April to July.

FLOUNDERS AND PLAICE.

These fish ought to be dressed alive; the flounder caught in the river Thames is the best, but some are caught in other rivers and the sea; if dead and fresh the bellies will look of a cream colour, the eyes plump, and the gills red, and hard to open, the body stiff and clean; when stale the bellies look bluish, the eyes shrunk and withered, the gills dim: and the body limber and slimy; they are in season from January till March, and from June till September.

RED MULLET.

This is a very fine fish, and when fresh is of a fine gold colour, almost equal to gold fish, the eyes bright [Page] and the body stiff; if stale the body looks faded and the eyes shrunk and withered.

GREY MULLET.

When fresh the scales are of a fine sparkling grey, the eyes full and plump, the gills red, and the belly stiff; if stale the scales look dim, the eyes shrunk, the gills black, and the body limber and slimy.

LOBSTERS.

This fish will live till all the substance is wasted; the best method is to buy them alive, and boil them yourself; but be sure to weigh them, if they are heavy and the tail strikes quick and strong, they are good; if weak and light, with a froth at the mouth, they are spent. When you choose a boiled one, put your finger and thumb on the body and pinch it, if it pinches tight, and the tail goes back with a strong spring, the lobster heavy, and a good bright red, it is good; if light and loose, and the shell dusky, it is stale or spent. The cock lobster is known by the narrowness of its tail, the two upper fins under the tail are hard and stiff; those of the hen are soft, and the tail broader; the meat of the cock is firmer than the hen, but the hen is preferred on account of the spawn.

The same rule will hold good for crawfish, or a crab, only be sure, if the crab is boiled, to smell under the tail, if sweet it is good.

SHRIMPS AND PRAWNS.

These little shell-fish, when alive, are so clear that you may see through them; the prawns, when fresh boiled, are of a light red, their tails close and stiff, if loose and slimy, and smell strong, they are stale; so of shrimps only, they look of a dusky red.

OYSTERS.

The Colchester, Pyfleet, and Milford, are the best barrel-oysters, and esteemed the finest flavour; they are fat and white, with the beards green; the native [Page] Milton is the next as the fattest, the shells are transparent and thin. In choosing an oyster take the deepest shell, and if you hold it up to the light and it looks clear and close, bites keen to the knife, and opens as soon as the body is wounded, it is a good one.

CHEESE.

Cheshire cheese is esteemed the best when old and a fine blue mould, the coat of a fine smoothness, and the cheese feels firm, without any holes in it; if there are any holes, be sure to try it to the bottom, to find whether there are any mites in it, and observe that it is white and clear where there is no blue mould, and tastes mild; if it is of a dusky white, and tastes strong, it is not good. North Wiltshire and double Gloucester cheese should be as yellow as gold, of a fine smooth coat, and the taste a little sharp; the way to make it mellow and fine is to put it into a cellar, and cut a hole in the middle, and feed it every day with mountain wine for one month, then it will be mellow and fine. Thin Gloucester cheese is chosen by its closeness, and a colour inclining to yellow, the taste mild, and the coat clear and smooth; if it is full of eyes and pale, or very yellow, it is poor. The Stilton cheese is made of cream and it is not good till it is quite soft and rotten.

BUTTER.

When you buy fresh butter be sure to put the knife in the middle and taste it, if it tastes mild and sweet it is good; if you buy a cask of salt butter have the cask unhooped, the try it in the middle, for very often there is good butter in both ends, and bad in the middle, owing to deceitful package; the Cambridge salt butter is the best, and often in the winter better than fresh if managed properly, by working it up a little, and putting it in spring water a few hours.

EGGS.

To choose eggs properly you must put the thick [Page] end to your tongue, if it feels warm it is new; if it is cold it is stale: and according to the heat or cold it is new or stale: the best method is to hold it up against the sun, or before a candle, if the yolk appears round and the white clear it is good; but if the yolk is broken, or sticks to the side, the white thick and muddy, it is stale. Another way to try is to put them in cold water, the fresher it is the sooner it sinks to the bottom; if addled or rotten it will swim on the surface of the water: the Hertfordshire eggs are the largest and best. The best method to keep eggs for use is to bury them in salt; but the sooner they are used the better.

As the poulterers in London always truss all kinds of poultry, it will not be amiss to give the young beginner a few instructions how to truss poultry and game, as many are obliged to leave London to go with a family to their country-houses for the summer, and may be very good cooks, but not proficient in drawing and trussing. In the first place, be careful that all the stubs are picked out; and when you draw any kind of fowls, &c. be sure you do not break the gall, as it will give the whole fowl a disagreeable bitterness, that all the washing and wiping cannot remove.

RULES FOR TRUSSING.

TURKIES.

AFTER they are properly picked, break the legbone close to the foot, and put it on a book fastened against a wall, and draw out the strings from the thigh; cut the neck of close to the back, but mind and leave the crop skin long enough to turn over to the back, take out the crop, and with your middle-finger loosen the liver and gut at the throat-end; gut off the vent and take out the gut, pull out the gizzard with [Page] a crooked sharp-pointed iron, and the liver will follow, but be careful you do not break the gall, wipe the inside out clean with a wet cloth, then with a large knife cut the breast bone on each side close to the back through, and draw the legs close to the crops, put a cloth on the breast, and beat the highbone down with a rolling-pin till it lays flat. When you truss it for boiling cut the legs off, and put your middle finger in the inside and raise the skin of the legs, and put them under the apron of the turkey, put a skewer in the joint of the wing and the middle joint of the leg, and run it through the body and the other leg and wing, put the liver and gizzard in the pinions, having first opened the gizzard and taken out the filth and the gall of the liver, and turn the small end of the pinion on the back; tie a packthread over the ends of the legs to keep them in their places; for roasting leave the legs on, put a skewer in the joint of the wing, put the legs close up, and put the skewer through the middle of the leg and body, and so at the other side put another skewer in at the small part of the leg, put it close on the outside of the sidesman, and put the skewer through, and the same on the other side, put in the liver and gizzard in the pinion, and turn the point of the pinion on the back, then put another skewer through the body of the turkey close above the pinions.

TURKEY POULTS.

Cut the neck from the head and body, but leave on the neck-skin, draw them the same as a turkey, put a s [...]ewer through the joint of the pinion, put the legs close up, run the skewer through the middle of the leg, through the body, and so on the other side; cut the under part of the bill off, twist the skin of the neck round, and put the head on the point of the skewer, with the bill-end forwards; put another skewer in the sidesman, and put the legs in between the sidesman and apron on each side, run the skewe [...] through all, and cut the toe-nails off; these are most [Page] commonly larded on the breast; you may put the liver and gizzard in or not, as you please.

GEESE.

When they are picked and stubbed clean, cut the feet off at the joint, and the pinion off the first joint, cut the neck off almost close to the back, leave the skin of the neck long enough to turn over to the back, pull the throat out, and tie a knot at the end, and with your middle finger loosen the liver, &c. at the breast-end, cut it open between the vent and the rump, draw out all the guts, gizzard, liver and heart, but leave in the foal, wipe it clean out with a wet cloth, and with a rolling-pin beat the breast-bone flat, put a skewer into the wing, and draw the legs close up, put the skewer through the middle of the leg and through the body, and the same on the other side: put another skewer in the small of the leg, put it down close to the sidesman, and run it through, and the same on the other side; cut the end of the vent off, and make a hole big enough for the rump to go through, as it holds the seasoning the better.

DUCKS.

Are drawn and trussed the same way, only leave on the feet, and turn them close to the legs.

FOWLS.

Pick them clean, and cut the neck off close to the back, take out the crop, and with your middle-finger loosen the liver and guts next the breast, cut off the vent and draw it clean; break the breast-bone flat with a rolling-pin; if for boiling, cut off the nails of the feet, and turn them down close to the leg, put your finger into the inside and raise the skin of the legs, cut a hole in the top of the skin and push the legs under, put a skewer in the first joint of the pinion, bring the middle of the leg close to it, put the skewer through the middle of the leg and through [Page] the body, and the same on the other side, open the gizzard and take out the filth, take the gall out of the liver, put them in the pinions, and turn the point on the back; tie a string round over the tops of the legs to keep them in their places; for roasting put a skewer in the first joint of the pinion, bring the middle of the leg close to it, put the skewer through the middle of the leg and through the body, and the same on the other side; put another skewer in the small of the leg and through the sidesman, and the same on the other side; put another skewer through the skin of the feet, and cut off the nails.

CHICKENS.

Pick and draw them the same as fowls; and for boiling cut the nails off, give the sinews a nick on each side the joint, put the feet in at the vent, and put the rump in, draw the skin tight over the legs put a skewer in the first joint of the pinion, bring the middle of the legs close put the skewer through the middle of the legs and through the body, and the same on the other side; clean the gizzard and take out the gall in the liver, put them in the pinions and turn the points on the back, for roasting cut off the feet, put a skewer in the first joint of the pinions bring the middle of the leg close, run the skewer through the middle of the leg and through the body, and the same on the other side; put another skewer in the sidesman, and run the skewer through; clean the liver and gizzard, put them in the pinions, turn the points on the back, and pull the breast-skin over the neck-end.

WILD FOWL of all Sorts.

Pick them clean, cut off the neck close to the back, and with your middle-finger loosen the liver and guts next the breast; cut the pinions off at the first joint, cut a slit between the vent and the rump, and draw them clean; clean them out with the long feathers on the wing, cut the nails off, and turn the feet close to the legs, put a skewer in the pinion, with your [Page] hand pull the legs close to the breast, and run the skewer through the legs, body, and the other pinion; cut the vent off and put the rump through.

PIGEONS.

Pick them and cut the neck close off to the back, take out the crop, cut off the vent, and draw the guts and gizzard out, but leave the liver in (a pigeon has no gall) for roasting cut the toes off, and cut a slit in one of the legs, and put the other through with your finger and thumb, draw the legs tight to the pinion, put a skewer through the pinion, legs, and body, break the breast flat with the handle of a knife, clean the gizzard, and put in one pinion, and turn the point on the back; for a pye cut the feet off at the joint, turn the legs, and stick them in the sides close to the pinions; the same for stewing or boiling.

WOODCOCKS AND SNIPES.

These are very tender to pick, especially when stale; you must handle them as little as possible, for the heat of your hand will peel the skin off, which will spoil the beauty of the bird; when you have picked them clean cut the pinions of the first joint, and with a rolling-pin break the breast-bone down flat, turn the legs close to the thighs, and tie them together at the joints, put the thighs close to the pinions, put a skewer into the pinion, and run it through the thighs, body, and the other pinion; skin the head, take out the eyes, turn the head, put it on the point of the skewer, with the bill close to the breast; never draw any woodcocks, snipes, nor plovers, which are trussed in the same manner.

WHEAT EARS, LARKS, &c.

Pick them clean, cut off their heads, and the pinions off at the first joint; with the handle of a knife break the breast flat; turn the feet close to the legs, [Page] and put one into the other, draw out the gizzard, and run a long skewer through the middle of the bodies of twelve, and tie them on a spit.

PHEASANTS AND PARTRIDGES.

When you have picked them clean, cut a slit at the back of the neck, take out the crop, and with your middle finger loosen the liver and gut next the breasts, cut off the vent and draw them, cut the pinion off at the first joint, wipe out the inside with the pinion you have cut off, (you never need pick them farther than the first joint on the pinion) break the breast-bone flat with a rolling-pin, put a skewer in the pinion, and bring the middle of the legs close; run the skewer through the legs, body, and the other pinion; bring the head and put it on the end of the skewer, the bill fronting with the breast, put another skewer in the sidesman, and put the legs close on each side the apron, run the skewer through all; you should leave the beautiful feathers on the head of the cock pheasant, and put paper over to keep the fire off, and save the long feathers in the tail to stick in the rump when roasted. Moor game of all sorts is trussed the same way.

When you truss them to boil, put the legs the same as a fowl trussed to boil.

HARES.

Cut the four legs off at the first joints, raise the skin of the back, and draw it off the hind legs, leave the tail whole, draw it over the back, and slip the fore-legs out; with a knife cut the skin off the neck and head, but mind to leave the ears on and skin them, take out the liver, lights, &c. and be sure to take the gut out of the vent, cut the sinews underneath the hind-legs, bring them up to the fore-legs, put a skewer through the hind-leg, then through the fore-leg under the joint, run it through the body, and the same on the other side; put another skewer through the thick parts of the hind-legs and body, [Page] put the head between the shoulders, and run a skewer through to keep it up, and one in each ear to make them stand up; tie a string round the middle of the body over the legs, and that will keep them in their place.

N. B. A young swan is trussed in the same way, only the ears are cut off.

RABBITS.

Case the rabbits the same as the hares, only cut the ears off close to the head, cut the vent open, and slit the legs about an inch up on each side the rump; make the hind legs-lay, flat, and bring the ends to the fore-legs; put a skewer in the hind-leg, then in the fore-leg, and through the body (the fore-leg and the hind-leg if for boiling) bring the head round, and put it on the skewer if for roasting; leave the head loose, and put a skewer through the thick part of the hind-legs and body; if you want to roast two together, truss them at full length, with six skewers run through them both, so as the spit will fasten between the rabbits.

CHAP. II.
SOUPS.

Proper rules to be observed in making Soups and Broths.

IN the first place, take great care that your soup-pots and covers are kept very clean inside and out, and well timed, otherwise the verdigrease will get in them, which is the most pernicious thing of any to the health of those who eat the different soups and broths you make, and give the soups, &c. a [Page] brackish, disagreeable flavour. When you proceed to make any brown soups, such as Gravi [...] Vermicelli, or De Santea, always put a little lean ham or bacon at the bottom of your soup-pot or stew pan, and cut your [...] small, as you sooner get the virtue of the meat out, with a little water at the bottom; cut your roots and herbs as directed in the different receipts (be careful always to have them well picked and washed clean before you use them) put them over the meat, with the spices; cover your pot very close, and stew it gently over a slow fire, till you find all the juices of the meat and herbs are drawn out; which will make your soup have a finer flavour, than by pursuing a contrary conduct; always be sure to skim all the fat and scum clean off; soft water is much the best for all kinds of soups and broths, except green peas soup, and then hard water helps the green colour of your soup. In all white soups never put any fat in of any kind; and be sure to boil your milk or cream before you put it into your soup, and put it in the last thing; boiling prevents it from curdling, which is often the case when put in raw. Gravy and all brown soups, by standing, will have a skim on, which you must take off, and peas soup will settle to the bottom; be sure to stur it well up before you put it into your dish or tureen; let all your ingredients be properly proportioned, that they may not taste of one thing more than another; let the taste be equal, and the whole of an agreeable relish.

Lastly, for all brown or white soups cut the crust of a French roll in round or square pieces, about two inches over, and crisp them before the fire; and for peas soup, toast the bread and cut it in dice, put it before the fire to crisp, as frying bread in butter or fat makes it greasy, and often gives the soup a nautions taste.

Soup a la Reine.

Take a pound of lean ham, and cut it very small, [Page] and put it at the bottom of your soup-pot, cut the lean of a knuckle of veal in small pieces, and put over the ham a large fowl cut in quarters, put over the veal a little mace, six onions, six heads of cellery, two turnips, four leeks, a small bundle of sweet herbs, all well washed; then put in half a pint of water, and cover it close, and sweat it gently for half an hour over a slow fire (but take care it does not catch at the bottom;) then pour boiling water over it till it is above covered, and when the scum rises skim it off clean, season it with salt, and stew it gently for two hours; then strain it off into an earthen pan, and let it stand half an hour to settle, then skim all the scum off and pour it from the settling at the bottom; in the mean time, take half a pound of sweet almonds, blanch them and take the skins off, and throw them into cold water, then put them into a mortar and beat them fine, adding a little cream as you beat them, to keep them from oiling, pick all the white meat from the fowl and put in the mortar, and the yolks of eight hard eggs, and beat them well together; take the crumb of two penny French rolls, and put a quart of the soup to them, and simmer them over the fire for two minutes; put them in the mortar, and mix them well together with the rest of the soup, and rub it through a tammy or napkin; put it in your soup-pot again and boil it up, as the froth rises skim it off; then put in a pint of-boild cream, stir it well up, then pour it into your tureen, with crisp French bread at the top.

Mock Turtle Soup.

Take a calves head with the skin on; and scaled it in the following manner. Put it in some cold water, beat some rosin fine, and rub all over it; then put it into scalding water, and keep turning it about till you find the hair will slip off; then take it out, and as quick as you can clean off all the hair, and wash it is well after, put it into a pot and boil it half an hour; then take off all the skin close to the bone, [Page] and cut the tongue out and peel it, take and break the bones all to pieces and put them into a soup-pot, with a shin of beef cut to pieces with two gallons of water; when it boils skim it well, and put in some all-spice, six onions, a carrot, two turnips, four leeks, six heads of cellery, washed well, and a bundle of sweet herbs; stew it gently for four hours, then strain it into a pan: in the mean time cut your skin into square pieces, about an inch and a half over, and slit the tongue down the middle, and then cut it across about one inch long, put them into a soup-pot with the soup, chop twelve shallots fine, tie up a large bundle of basil, marjorum, winter savory and thyme, twelve cloves, six blades of mace, twelve corns of all-spice beat very fine, put all these in and stew it till tender; mix a bottle of Madeira wine with sour large spoonfuls of flour very smooth and put in, but be sure to stir it well about; season it high with Cayan pepper and salt, take out the sweet herbs, and squeeze the liquor out between two plates into the soup, and stew it half and hour; then put in two dozen of forcemeat halls and two dozen egg balls, and squeeze in two lemons; boil it up for two or three minutes, then serve it in tureens.

Giblets a la Turtle.

Take three pair of goose giblets, scald and pick them clean, cut the neck in three, split the head in two, cut the pinions in three, the feet in two, and the gizzard in eight pieces, wash them very clean, put them in four quarts of water, three pounds of lean veal cut in small pieces; when the scum rises skim it well, then put in six onions, two turnips some cloves, mace and all-spice, and a little salt; stew them till near tender, strain the soup from them, and wash the giblets out clean from the other ingredients in warm water; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stew-pan and melt it up, put in three spoonfuls of flour, stir it till it is smooth, skim and pour the soup from the settlings, and by degrees [Page] put it into the stew-pan, stir it till it is smooth, put in a pint of Madeira, and season it with Cayan pepper and salt; boil it for half an hour, then put in the giblets, with half a dozen yolks of hard eggs, skim it well, and boil it up till the giblets are tender; boil the livers in a quart of water till tender and put in; then put them into a soup-dish or tureen as hot, as possible.

Giblet Soup.

TAKE three pair of goose giblets, scald and cut them as before, put them on in three quarts of water and when the scum rises skim them well, and put in a bundle of sweet herbs, some cloves, mace and all-spice tied in a bag, with some pepper and salt, stew them gently till near tender; mix a quarter of a pound of butter with flower and put in, with half a pint of white wine, a little Cayan pepper, stew them till thick and smooth, take out the herbs and spices, skim it well, boil the livers in a quart of water till tender and put in; then put them in a soup-dish of tureen.

Soup Purree.

TAKE four pounds of lean beef and one pound of pickled pork cut small, put it into a pot with a gallon of water, and when it boils skim it well, then put in a quart of blue split peas, four onions, six heads of cellery, a carrot, two turneps, and four leeks cut small, with a spoonful of dried mint, a little pepper and salt; boil it gently for two hours, (mind and stir it very often to keep the peas from sticking to the bottom) then rub it through a sieve, and then through a tammy or napkin, put it into the pot again and give it a boil up; take two turneps cut in dice, four leeks cut small, four heads of cellery cut small, wash them well, and boil them in two quarts of water, till tender; strain them off and put them in your soup, and just before you send it [Page] away put in half a pint of spinach juice, give it a gentle boil, and keep stirring it all the time, or else it will curdle; put it hot into your tureen, with crispt bread in a plate.

N. B. Mind your soup is well seasoned with pepper, and salt.

Soup Creffee.

TAKE a pound of lean ham, and cut it very small, put it at the bottom of a stew-pan, then cut two penny French rolls in thin slices and put over the ham, two dozen heads of cellery, six onions, two turneps, four leeks, and one carrot, well washed and cut small, a small bundle of sweet herbs and a handful of water creffes, six cloves and six blades of mace, all over the bread▪ put a pint of broth made as follows, ta [...]e three pounds of lean veal and one of mutton, cut very small, put into a stew-pan, with two onions, four heads of cellery, a carrot, four leeks, put half a point of water in and sweat it gently for half an hour, then put in a gallon of boiling water, and when it boils skim it well; boil it gently for two hours, and then strain it off; then sweat the above igredients half an hour, pour all the broth in, and stew it gently for four hours, then rub it through a tammy or napkin, put it into the stew-pan again, and boil it up gently for a few minutes; season it with salt and Cayan pepper to your palate, boil two handfuls of water-cresses in water till tender, pour the soup into a tureen, and put two pieces of crispt French roll on it, and the water-crosses over that.

Green Peas Soup.

Take half a pound of lean ham cut small, and put it at the bottom of a soup pot, a knuckle of veal cut in pieces over it, put in half a pint of water, six heads of cellery, six or eight onions, four turnips and a carrot, four cloves and two blades of mace, sweat it over a gentle fire for half an hour; in the mean time boil two quarts of old green peas well, and strain [Page] the liquor into your pot, and when it boils skim it well; boil it gently till it is good, strain it off into a pan, beat the peas well in a mortar, and mix the soup with them, and rub it through a tammy or napkin; if you have no mortar, you may rub the peas through a sieve with the back of a spoon, and mix with your soup; put it into your pot again, pare two or three cucumbers, cut them down the middle, take out the pulp, and cut them an inch long, four cabbage lettuces cut across, boil them till tender, and a pint of young peas boiled green, put them into your soup and boil it up for five minutes; season it with pepper and salt to your palate: if you find your soup not thick enough, 'take the crumb of a French roll, put a little soup to it, and simmer it, then rub it as the peas and put it in, stir it well about, and two or three minutes before you send it away put in half a pint of spinach juice, and keep it stirring till it boils up, just to take the rawness of the spinach off; then put it in tureens, and send crispt bread in a plate.

N. B. You may stew a little spinach and squeeze it dry, chop it a little and put it in with the peas, &c.

Another Green Peas Soup.

TAKE a gallon of spring water and make it boil, then put in two quarts of old green peas, and boil them till tender, strain them off and save the liquor, and put it in the pot again, with six or eight large onions, six turnips, two carrots, six heads of cellery, and if you have them six cabbage lettuces, a little spinach, all well washed, a little cloves and mace; boil them till all are tender, beat your old peas well in a mortar and mix with the soup, and rub it all well through a tammy or napkin; put it in your pot again, season it with pepper and salt to your palate, then treat it as in the above receipt.

White Peas Soup.

Take four pounds of lean veal and half in pound of [Page] lean ham; and put it into six quarts of soft water, and as soon as the scum rises skim it well, then put three quarts of old green peas, six onions, two heads of cellery, a carrot, two turnips, a little thyme, and a blade of mace; boil it well for three hours, then rub it well through a sieve till all the pulp is out of the peas, and then through a tammy or napkin; put it into your pot again, take two cucumbers and pure them, cut them through and take the pulp out, cut two cabbage lettuces across and boil them till tender, with a pint of green peas boiled green; put all these in and stew them for fifteen minutes; season it with salt, mix three yolks of eggs in a pint of cream, put it in and stir it well about till it boils; then put it into your tureen, with two or three pieces of French bread crispt at the top.

Peas Soup for Winter.

Take a pound of bacon or pickled pork and a shin of beef cut small, put them into a pot with six quarts of water, (when the scum rises skim it well) then put a quart of white split peas in, six heads of cellery, six large onions, four leeks, two turnips, and a spoonful or dried [...]nt rubbed fine; boil it gently for three hours, and stir it about every quarter of an hour to keep the peas from sticking to the bottom; then rub it through a sieve, and rub the pulp of the peas well through, put it into your pot again, season it with pepper and salt, cut two turnips into dice, four heads of cellery, and four leeks cut small, boil them in two quarts of water till tender, strain them in a sieve, put them i [...]fry twelve small rashers of bacon and put in, and boil it up five minutes; then put it into your tureens, and send crispt bread in a plate. You may make peas soup in this manner: when you boil a leg of pork or a piece of beef save the liquor till next day, then take off the fat when the liquor is cold, then put it in a pot and make it boil, with the bones of the meat and two quarts of spli [...] peas then treat it as above directed.

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Common Peas Soup.

Take three or four rump beef bones with a pound of bacon, put them into a gallon of soft water, and when the scum rises skim it well, put in a quart of split peas, four onions, three heads of cellery, two leeks, and two turnips cut small, a spoonful of dried mint, a little pepper and salt; stew it two hours, then rub it through a sieve, put it into your pot again, with four heads of cellery cut small and boiled; then boil it up ten minutes, and send it in a tureen or soupdish, with a handful of crispt bread in it.

A Spanish Peas Soup.

Get a pound of Spanish peas and put them in water the night before you use them, then take three quarts of soft water and one of sweet oil, make them boil, then put in your peas with a head of garlick, cover your pot close, and stew it gently till the peas are soft, season it with pepper and salt, beat the yolk of an egg in a little vinegar and put in, stir it well, fry some large sippets in butter, and put them at the bottom of a soup dish, poach six eggs and lay on the sippets, then pour the soup boiling hot over.

Soup [...]orrain.

Take half a pound of lean ham cut smell and put it, at the bottom of a soup-pot, and two pounds of lean veal cut small over the ham, and a large fowl put in whole, with four onions, four heads of cellery, two turneps, one carrot, a bundle, of sweet herbs, four cloves, two blades of mace, put in half a pint of water, set it over a flow fire, and sweat it well, but take care it does not stick or born; then pour four quarts of boiling water, and when it boils skim it well; boil it for one hour, then take out the fowl and boil it one hour longer; then strain it off and let it settle, skim it well and pour it off the settling: in the mean time take a pound of almonds, blanch them and beat them in a mortar, put in a little water to [Page] keep them from oiling, take the yolks of six hard eggs and the white part of the fowl, beat them fine with the almonds, mix some of the soup with it, and rub it through a tammy or napkin; put it into your pot again with most of the rest of the soup, boil it gently for ten minutes, skim off all the froth as it rises, and season it with salt; take the white part of another fowl and mince it, put it in a stew-pan, with a little of the soup, a little pepper and salt, and grate a little nutmeg in it, mix a little flour and butter to thicken it, give it a toss or two in the pan, then take a penny French roll and cut a piece out of the top, pick out all the crumb, put the mince in, and put the top on; pour your soup boiling hot into your tureen, and put the roll with the mince in the middle, and four pieces of crispt French bread round it.

Almond Soup.

Take three pounds of lean veal and two pounds of scrag of mutton, cut them small and put them into a a soup-pot with four quarts of water: when the scum rises skim it well, and put in two turneps, two heads of cellery, two leeks, all washed well and cut small and two blades of mace; boil it gently till half is reduced, season it with salt and a little Cayan pepper blanch half a pound of sweet almonds, beat them in a mortar, and as you beat them put in half a pint of cream, to keep them from oiling, strain your soup to the almonds, and rub it through a fine sieve; put it in your pot again and make it hot, but do not let it boil; have ready three small French rolls about as big as a tea-cup, blanch a few Jordon almonds, cut them lengthways, and stick them all over the tops, and sides of the rolls; put the rolls into your tureen, and pour your soup over them: these rolls look like hedge-hog [...] and the French cooks term it hedge-hog soup.

Soup de Santea.

Take six rashers of lean ham and put them on the bottom of a stew-pan, then three pounds of lean veal [Page] cut small over the ham, and three pounds of lean beef over that, six onions, four heads of cellery, two leeks, a carrot, two turneps, all washed well and cut small, a bundle of sweet herbs, twelve corns of allspice, four cloves, and four blades of mace, put in half a plat of water, put it over a slow fire till it sticks (but mind it does not stick too much) then put in a gallon of boiling water, and when it boils skim it well, season it with salt, and stew it gently for two hours; then strain it off into a clean pan and let it settle; then skim all the fat off and pour it off the settlings into a soup-pot; have ready a large carrot, one turnep, four heads of cellery, two leeks cut about two inches long, and as fine as you can cut them lengthways, two heads of endive, two cabbage lettuces cut across small, with a little sorrel and chervil chopped fine; wash them all well, and put them into a stew-pan with half a pint of soup, and stew them gently fifteen minutes; then put them into the soup, and boil it fifteen minutes longer; then put it into your tureen, with crispt French bread at the top.

GRAVY SOUP.

Take a shin of beef and cut it in pieces, and put it in a soup-pot, with half a pint of water, six onions, four heads of cellery, two turnips, a carrot, and twelve corns of all-spice; sweat it till it sticks, then pour four quarts of boiling water over it, and when it boils skim it well; stew it gently for three hours, or till the liquor is half wasted, season it with salt, then strain it off into a clean pan and skim the fat off; have ready a carrot and two turnips cut in dice, with two heads of cellery cut about half an inch long, boil them in water till tender, then drain them in a sieve, put them into your soup, and boil it ten minutes; put it into your tureen, with crispt French bread in it.

N. B. If it is not brown enough put a spoonful of browning in it.

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Vermicelli Soup.

Take a pound of lean ham cut small, and put it at the bottom of a soup-pot, cut a small knuckle of veal in pieces, and two pounds of scrag of mutton, and put them over the ham, four onions, two turnips, a carrot, four leeks, four heads of cellery, well washed and cut small, six cloves, four blades of mace, and a bundle of sweet herbs, with half a pint of [...] all put in the pot and sweated gently for half an hour; then pour four quarts of boiling water over it, when it boils skim it well, and boil it gently for three hours, then strain it into a clean pan, skim off all the fat, and pour it into a soup-pot from the settling; boil a quarter of a pound of vermicelli in water, strain it in a sieve, put it into your soup, and with two spoonfuls of browning boil it for ten minutes; put some crispt French bread into the tureen, and pour the soup over it.

Macaroni Soup.

Make the soup as for vermicelli, and boil a quarter of a pound of small pipe macaroni in two quarts of water and two ounces of butter till it is tender, them strain it in a sieve, and cut it about two inches long, put it in your soup and boil it ten minutes; put it into your tureens, and crispt French bread at the top.

Soup and Boulée.

Take two pounds of a scrag of veal, and about six pounds of the brisket of beef, tie them tight with packthread, put them in a pot with six quarts of water, and when the scum rises skim it well, then put in six onions, four leeks, six heads of cellery, a carrot and two turnips, well washed, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little all-spice, cloves and mace; boil it gently for five hours, and season it with salt; then take out the brisket and take the bones out, keep it hot, strain your soup into a pan to settle, skim of [Page] all the fat, and pour it from the settlings into a souppot, put in two spoonfuls of browning, cut a carrot, two turnips, two leeks, and four heads of cellery in long slips, and boil them in your soup till tender; then put the brisket into a tureen or soup-dish, and pour the soup over it, with crispt bread in a plate.

Soup and Boulée with Cabbage.

Take six pounds of brisket of beef, tie it up with two pounds of scrag of veal, put them into a pot with six quarts of water, and when the scum rises skim it well, and boil it gently for two hours; cut two carrots in quarters, four turnips in quarters, two leeks split in two, and four heads of cellery, cut one large or two small cabbages in quarters and across about an inch long, wash them all well, put them in with a bundle of sweet herbs, some all-spice, cloves, and mace tied in a bag, season it with salt, and boil it gently for three hours longer; skim the fat off well and take the brisket out, untie it and put it in a dish by itself, and garnish it with carrot: take out the veal, spices, and herbs, and put the soup and the ingredients into a tureen, with crispt bread in a plate.

A West-India Pepper Pot.

Take two pounds of lean veal, the same of mutton, cut them small, with a pound of lean ham, put them in a stew-pan, and about four pounds of brisket of beef cut in square pieces, with six onions, two carrots, four heads of cellery, four leeks, two turnips, well washed, a bundle of sweet herbs, some all-spice, cloves, and mace, and half a pint of water; sweat them well for half an hour, then pour four quarts of boiling water into it, and skim it well; boil it gently for three hours, then strain it off, take out the pieces of beef, then put a quarter of a pound of butter in the stew-pan and melt it, put two spoonfuls of flour, and stir it about till it is smooth; then by degrees pour your soup in, and stir it about to keep [Page] it from lumping, put the pieces of beef in; have ready two large carrots cut in quarters, and four turnips in quarters, boiled till tender, take the spawn of a large lobster and bruise it fine, and put it in to colour it, with a dozen heads of greens boiled tender: make some flour and water into a paste, and make it in balls as big as a walnut, boil them well in water, and put them in; boil it up gently for fifteen minutes, and season it very hot with Cayan pepper and salt; put it in a soup-dish and send it up hot, garnished with sprigs of cauliflowers round the dish, or carrots, or any thing else you fancy.

Hare Soup.

Take a large old hare and cut it in pieces, put it in an earthen mug, with three or four blades of mace, a little salt and Cayan pepper, two large onions, a red herring, six large morels, a pint of red wine, and three quarts of water: tie it down with brown paper, bake it three hours in a quick oven, then strain it into a pan and let it settle; pour it from the settlings into a stew-pan, scald the liver for two or three minutes, and rub it through a sieve with a spoon and put it in; have ready a quarter of a pound of French barley, boiled well in water and put in, put it over the fire to make hot (but take care it does not boil) then pour it into a soup-dish or tureen, with crispt French bread at the top. This is esteemed as a very rich soup, and fit for a large company, where two or three soups are served up.

N. B. If you disapprove of the red herring you may leave it out.

Partridge Soup.

Take two old partridges and skin them, cut them into quarters, with three or four slices of ham, six onions sliced, and four heads of cellery; fry them brown in butter, but do not burn them, pour three quarts of boiling water over them, with a few pepper corns, and stew it gently for two hours; take out [Page] the partridges and strain the soup off, put it into the stew-pan again, and have ready six heads of cellery cut about six inches long, and stew them in a little of the soup, two ounces of whole rice boiled well in water, put them into the soup, season it with salt and Cayan pepper, and put in the partridges; give it a boil for five minutes, then put it into the tureen, with a handful of crispt bread.

Onion Soup.

Take a pound of lean ham cut small, put it at the bottom of a stew-pan, three pounds of lean beef and two pounds of lean veal, cut small and put over the ham, six onions, four heads of cellery, four leeks, two turnips, and one carrot, well washed and cut small, put them over the meat, with a bundle of sweet herbs and a dozen corns of all-spice, put in half a pint of water, and sweat it for half an hour over a slow fire (take care it does not burn) then pour four quarts of boiling water over it, skim it well and season it with salt; boil it gently for three hours, then strain it off into a clean pan to settle, skim the fat off, and pour it from the settlings into a souppot; peel four dozen of small button onions and put them in the soup, and boil it gently half an hour; put it into a tureen, with crispt French bread at the top.

Another Onion Soup.

Take half a pound of butter and put it into a stew-pan, melt it, cut twelve large onions in slices and fry them brown, put in some flour, and shake them about; fry them a little longer, then pour in three points of boiling water, stir them round, put the upper crust of a penny loaf cut in small pieces in, seasoned with pepper and salt, and stew it fifteen minutes, keep stirring it pretty often; have ready the yolks of three eggs beat fine, with half a spoonful of vinegar, mix in some of the soup well with [Page] them, then mix all the soup together and pour it in a tureen.

White Onion Soup.

Take a knuckle of veil cut small, put it in a pot with five quarts of water, and when the scum rises skim it well, peel thirty large onions, boil them with it till they are tender, with a little whole pepper and two blades of mace; season it with salt, then rub your onions through a sieve till all the pulp is out; put them into a stew-pan with half a pound of butter, shake in a little flour and half a pint of cream, stir them well about till the butter is melted, then strain the soup in, and keep stirring till it is ready to boil; then pour it into a soup-dish or tureen.

Spanish Onion Soup.

Boil eight or ten large Spanish onions in milk and water till they are tender, change the milk and water twice while the onions are boiling, rub them through a sieve till the pulp is all through: take an old fowl and cut it to pieces, and stew it in three quarts of water with a blade of mace for two hours; then strain it to the onions in a stew-pan, stir it well together, and season it with Cayan pepper and salt; put in half a pint of boiled cream, and boil it up gently a few minutes; then put it into the soup-dish or tureen. You may, if you please, put in a little stewed spinach, or asparagus tops boiled.

Another Spanish Onions Soup.

Take two large Spanish onions, peel and slice them, stew them gently in half a pint of sweet oil till tender, then pour in three pints of boiling watere and stew it gently for half an hour; season it with, pepper and salt, a little beaten cloves and mace, put in two spoonfuls of vinegar and a handful of parsley chopped fine; fry about a dozen sippets and put them [Page] at the bottom of the soup-dish, poach six eggs and put over the sippets, and pour the soup over them, and send it to the table hot.

Chesnut Soup.

Take half a hundred of chesnuts and notch them▪ put them in an earthen pan, and put them in a hot oven for half an hour, or roast them over a slow fire in an iron pan, (but mind they do not burn) peel them, and stew them one hour in a quart of veal or beef broth: in the mean time take three or four rashers of lean ham or bacon and put them at the bottom of a stew-pan, one pound of veal, one pound of lean beef, a pigeon cut into pieces, two onions stuck with cloves, and two blades of mace, a bundle of sweet herbs over the ham, with half a pint of water; sweat it gently till it sticks, but must not burn, pour in two quarts of boiling water, and skim it well; stuff two pigeons with force-meat, and stew them in the soup till tender; then take the pigeons out, and strain the soup to the chesnuts, season it with pepper and salt to your palate, and boil it up for five minutes; put the peaches into a soup-dish, the chesnuts round them, and pour the soup boiling hot over them, and two or three pieces of crispt French bread at the top; garnish the edge of the dish with some of the chesnuts split in two.

N. B. If you have a partridge you may use it instead of the pigeon, cut to pieces.

Rice Soup.

Take a pound of lean ham cut small, two pound of lean veal, two pounds of lean beef, cut small and put over the ham, six onions, four heads of cellery, two leeks, two turneps, a carrot, washed well and cut small, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little cloves and mace, with half a pint of water over the meat; sweat it gently over a slow fire for half an hour, (but take care it does not burn) pour three quarts of boiling water over it and skim it well; stew it [Page] gently for two hours, then strain it into a pan: in the mean time boil a quarter of a pound of rice in two quarts of water till tender, strain it through a sieve, put the rice and soup in a pot, and boil it for ten minutes; season it with salt, and pour it hot into a tureen, with crispt French bread at the top.

N. B. If you like it brown put a spoonful of browning in.

Another Rice Soup.

Take half a pound of rice and put it into two quarts of water, with a stick of cinnamon, cover it close, and stew it gently till the rice is tender; take out the cinnamon, sweeten it to your liking, grate in a nutmeg, and let it stand till it is cold; beat up the yolks of three eggs with half a pint of white wine, stir it all together, put it over a slow fire, and keep stirring it all the time, till it is thick and boils, otherwise it will burn and curdle; then put it into a soup-dish.

Ox Check Soup.

Take half an ox head, and cut the cheek clean from the bones, break the bones to pieces, and put them in a large pan of water all night to soak out the blood; in the morning wash them clean out, and put them into a pot with six quarts of water, when the scum rises skim it well; take six onions, six heads of cellery, about four leeks and two turneps, well washed and cut in two, with a bundle of sweet herbs, a spoonful of all-spice, some cloves and mace, and a little salt; put in two palates, and stew them till tender, then take them out and throw them into cold water, and take off the skins; cut them into square pieces, stew the head five hours, try if the head is tender, if not stew it gently till it is; then take it out, and strain the soup into a pan to settle, skim it well, and pour it from the settlings; put a quarter of a pound of butter in a stew-pan and melt it, put two large [Page] spoonsful of flour in, and stir it about till it is smooth; by degrees put the soup in, keep stirring for fear it should go into lumps, if it does you must strain it through a sieve, put in half a pint of white wine, and season it with Cayan pepper and common pepper and salt, nearly as hot as mock turtle; in the mean time cut a carrot and two turneps in dice, four heads of cellery and two leeks about half an inch long, boiled in water till tender, strain them in a sieve, and put them to the soup; cut the cheek in square pieces and put it in with the palates, and two spoonsful of browning, stew it gently for half an hour, and skim the fat off clean; put it into a soupdish or tureen, with crispt bread in a plate.

N. B. You may put the check whole in a large soup-dish, if you like it best, and the soup over it.

Ox Check Soup Baked.

Take half an ox head, and cut the check clean from the bones, break the bones and lay them in a large pan of water all day to soak the blood out; then wash them clean, and put them in an earthen pan, and cover them with water, and put a spoonful of all-spice, four onions, a carrot, two turneps, four heads of cellery, two leeks well washed, a bundle of sweet herbs, some pepper and salt, two or three bay leaves, and a pint of mild ale or beer, not porter, tie it over with strong paper put it in the oven after dinner, and let it stay in all night; in the morning take it out, and if it is not tender enough, after you heat the oven put it in again till you think it is done then take the cheek out of the soup, and strain it through a sieve to settle, skim off all the fat and pour it from the settlings into a pan, and put the cheek to keep hot (if it wants any seasoning put some in); put the cheek in a soup-dish, and pour the soup over it, with a handful of toasted bread. A leg of beef done in the same manner is very good.

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Hotch Potch.

Take a pound of lean ham, cut it small, and put it at the bottom of a stew-pan, two pounds of lean veal, two pounds of lean beef, over the ham, six onions, four heads of cellery, two leeks, two turneps, a carrot, washed well and cut small, a bundle of sweet herbs, twelve corns of all-spice, six cloves, and three blades of mace, with half a pint of water over the meat; put it over a slow fire, and sweat it till all the juices are out of the meat and herbs, then pour four quarts of boiling water over it, and skim it well, season it with salt, stew it gently for two hours, strain it into an earthen pan; put about two ounces of butter into a stew-pan and melt it, and a spoonful of flour, stir it well till it is smooth, cut a large fowl and truss it for boiling, singe it and put it in, cut a sav [...]y or white cabbage in quarters and tie it with packthread, a large carrot cut in six pieces, six middle-sized turneps whole, six heads of the white part of cellery, and boil two ounces of rice in water half an hour and put in, stew it all gently till the fowl and herbs are tender; have ready two pounds of pickled pork boiled tender, cut it into square pieces and put in, put in a little Cayan pepper to your palate; take the fowl out and put it in the middle of a soup-dish, the pork all round, untie the cabbage, put that and the roots all round and over the meat, and the soup over that.

N. B. When green peas are in season put a pint of them instead of the rice. Garnish with sprigs of caul flowers boiled.

Another Hotch-Potch.

Take two pounds of brisket of beef, two or three pounds of the brisket of a breast of veal, cut in square pieces, two tail ends of rumps of beef cut in pieces about two inches long, put them into a stew-pan, cut a savoy of white cabbage in quarters, tie it up with packthread, two carrots cut in quarters, four white heads of cellery, six middle sized turneps whole, six round onions, all well washed, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little all-spice, cloves, and mace tied in a [Page] [...] slow fire for half an hour, (take care it does not burn) then pour four quarts of boiling water on it and skim it well, put in a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in flour, and stew it three hours, season it with pepper and salt (if green peas are in season put a pint in); have ready a pound of pickled pork boiled tender and cut in square pieces, put it in; take out the cabbage as whole as you can and unite it, and the sweet herbs and spice, put the meat into a soup-dish, and the cabbage, roots, and soup all over with crispt bread in a plate; garnish with carrot or cauliflower sprigs.

Breast of Veal in Hotch-Potch.

Take the brisk [...] end of a breast of veal, and cut it in little square pieces, flour it, and put half a pound of butter in a stew-pan, when it is hot put in the veal, and fry it of a light brown; then put in two quarts of boiling water, stir it round (if peas are in season put in a pint of green peas) four cabbage lettuces cut in quarters and well washed, two onions chopped fine, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little cloves, mace, and all-spice tied in a rag, a little pepper and salt, cover it close and stew it till the veal is tender, and season it to your palate; take out the spice and sweet herbs and put it in a soup-dish; garnish with sprigs of cauliflowers or small heads of greens; if cauliflowers are in season, boil a small one tender, and put it in the middle of the dish, and the meat round it will make it look handsome; or if peas are not in season, and cucumbers are, pare six cucumbers, take out the core, and cut them in thin slices instead of the peas. In winter cut a carrot in small pieces, two turnips in dice, four heads of the white part of cellery cut about two inches long, with the hearts of four small Savoy cabbages▪ or six heads of greens.

Hotch-Potch of Mutton.

Take a neck of mutton of about six pounds and cut it into chops, leave the scrag end whole put it into bug, with half a pint of water; sweat it gently over [Page] a stew-pan with half a pint of water, put in six round onions and six middle-sized turnips whole, a carrot cut in quarters, a Savoy or white cabbage cut in quarters and tied up with packthread, all well washed, with a little thyme; sweat it gently for half an hour over a slow fire, then pour three quarts of boiling water over it, season it with salt and pepper, and skim it well; stew it for two hours, and put in a spoonful of browning, skim off all the fat, put the chaps into a soup-dish, leave out the scrag, untie the cabbage, put over with the soup▪ &c. Garnish with toasted sippets. You may add two ounces of Scotch barley if you like it.

Mutton Broth.

Take a neck of mutton of about six pounds, cut the best end whole and the scrag end in pieces, put it in a stew-pan with a gallon of water, and when the scum rises skim it well, put in two onions, four turnips, two leeks, and a little thyme and parsley, well washed; boil it gently till the best end is done, then take it out, stew the rest till your broth is as good as you would have it, season it with salt, and strain it off, skim all the fat clean off; have ready four turnips cut in dice, and two leeks cut small, boil them a quarter of an hour in water, strain them in a sieve, and put them into your broth, with a few marygolds and the piece of mutton; give it a boil for ten minutes, then put it into a tureen; with crispt bread in a plate. You may thicken it with oatmeal if you think proper.

Barley Broth.

Make the broth as in the above receipt, and boil half a pound of pearl barley for two hours in two quarts of water, strain it off, and put it to the broth with the mutton, and boil it for ten minutes, put it into a tureen, with some crispt bread in a plate.

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Scotch Barley Broth.

Get a sheep's head and feet with the skin and wool [...]n, and singe the wool off with red hot irons (the best way is to send them to a smith's shop to be done) when singed, take a clean brush and some warm water, and brush them well till they are quite clean; put them into a soup-pot with six quarts of water, and when the scum rises skim it clean, put in half a pound of Scotch barley, six onions whole, six turnips whole, six leeks, and six of the white heads of cellery split in two, two carrots cut in quarters, a Savoy or white cabbage cut small, and half a pint of oatmeal, stew it for four hours, and season it with salt; chop a handful of parsley fine, and a few marygolds, put them in, let it boil up five minutes, then put the head and feet into a soup-dish, and the soup and ingredients all over, with crispt bread in a plate.

Veal Broth.

Take about four pounds of scrag of veal cut small, put it in three quarts of water, when the scum rises skim it well, put in two onions, a turnip, and three or four blades of mace; stew it gently for two hours, season it with salt, and strain it off; have ready four ounces of rice boiled in water till tender, strain it through a sieve, put it into the broth, and boil it ten minutes; put it in a tureen, with a handful of crispt bread in it.

Beef Broth.

Take a leg of beef, break the bone in three or four places, and wash it clean, put it into a pot with six quarts of water; when the scum rises skim it well, and put in three blades of mace, a bundle of sweet herbs, and a large crust of bread; boil it for four hours, and season it with salt, then take the meat out clear from the bones, and put it in a soup-dish, and strain the broth over it; put in a handful of crispt bread.

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Crawfish Soup.

Take half a hundred of live crawfish and wash them clean, boil them half an hour in a gallon of water, strain them in a sieve, and save the liquor; pick out the meat from the tails whole and save it, bruise the shells in a mortar, and put them into a soup-pot with the liquor, and about three pounds of scaite, thornback, cod, or hollybert, an onion stuck with cloves, a bundle of sweet herbs, and three or four blades of mace, with a pint of green or dry peas, season it with pepper and salt, and stew it three hours, skim it well, take the spawn of lobster and bruise it very fine, and put it in to colour it a fine red; then rub the fish and soup through a sieve till the fish is pretty near all through, and then rub it through a tammy or napkin, put it into a soup-pot and make it hot; in the mean time flour the tails of the crawfish, and fry them in butter, put them on a coarse cloth before the fire to drain, then put them in a soup-dish or tureen, and pour the soup hot over them, with some crispt French bread at the top.

N. B. If you cannot got fish, you may use lean veal or mutton in the to stead, and use the crumb of two French rolls, simmer it in a little of the soup to thicken it before you rub it through the tammy▪

Lobster Soup.

Take four lobsters, and pick the spawn out while alive if there is any on the outside, boil them in a gallon of water for one hour, then take them out, pick the meat out of the claws and tails, save two tails whole, and take care of the spawn, put the liquor into a soup-pot, with a pound of lean ham cut fine, two pounds of any sort of fish, and put the meat of the lobsters in, except the two tails, with two onions stuck with cloves, four blades of mace, a bundle of sweet herbs, and a crust of French bread; stew it gently for two hours, season it with pepper and salt, take the meat of the lobsters out, put it in a mortar and beat it fine, bruise the spawn fine and put [Page] it in; mix the soup with the meat and spawn, and rub it through a tammy or napkin, then put it into a soup-pot and boil it up: in the mean time cut the rwo tails of the lobsters in long s [...]lps, flour and fry them brown in butter, put them on a coarse cloth before the fire to drain; then put them into a soup-dish or tureen, and pour the soup boiling hot over them, with crispt French bread at the top.

Scaite, or Thornback Soup.

Take three pounds of scaite or the thornback and skim it, wash it well, and boil it in six quarts of water till it is very tender; take it up and pick all the fish off the bones, put the bones in again, with about two pounds of any sort of fresh fish, a little lemon-peel, a bundle of sweet herbs, twelve corns of whole pepper, two or three blades of mace, a little horseradish, an onion stuck with cloves, and the top crust of a penny loaf, with a little parsley, cover it close, and stew it gently two hours; take a French roll, cut a little piece out of the top, pick out all the crumb, and put it in the soup; rub it through a sieve, and pound part of the scaite or thornback in a mortar, mix the soup with it, and rub it through a tammy or napkin; put it in a soup-pot and make it hot, season it with Cayan pepper and salt▪ in the mean time mince the rest of the fish small, and put it in a stew-pan, with two spoonsful of the soup, a little butter rolled in flour, and a little pepper and salt; give it a toss or two, then fill the French roll, pour your soup into a soup-dish or tureen, and put the roll in to swim at the top. This is a very rich soup, and end or hollybert soup is made the same way.

Oyster Soup.

Take two pounds of scaite, skin it, two large eels, and four flounders cut small, well washed and gutted, put them into four quarts of water, and when the scum rises skim it well, and put in two or three blades of mace, and onion stuck with cloves, two heads of [Page] cellery, a few parsley roots, and a bundle of sweet herbs; cover it close, and stew it for two hours, season it with pepper and salt, and half a nutmeg grated; in the mean time get two quarts of oysters, and boil them in their own liquor, strain them in a sieve, and throw them into cold water, wash them well out, and beard them, pour the oyster liquor from the settlings into the soup, pound the oysters and twelve yolks of hard eggs in a mortar very fine, and strain the soup to them; mix them well up, and rub it through a tammy or napkin, then put it into a soup-pot, and give it a boil till it is as thick as cream; then pour it into a tureen, with crispt French bread at the top.

Eel Soup.

Take four pounds of eels, skin, gut, and wash them well, cut them in pieces, and put them into a pot with four quarts of water, with a crust of bread, an onion stuck with cloves, two or three blades of mace, and a bundle of sweet herbs; season it with salt and skim it well, boil it till half the liquor is wasted, then strain it off and put it into a stew-pan, and chop a handful of parsley fine, put it in, and boil the soup five minutes; then put it into a tureen, with a handful of toasted bread.

Muscle Soup.

Take a hundred of large muscles, wash them clean, put them into a stew pan, cover them close, and stew them till they open, then pick them out of the shells, and pick the beard or crab off, if there is any, strain the liquor through a fine sieve into a pan to settle, then pour it from the settlings to the muscles; take two pounds of any sort of fresh fish and put on with a gallon of water, with a bundle of sweet herbs, a large onion stuck with cloves, a little whole pepper, a small piece of horse radish, and a little parsley: bruise a dozen crawfish in a mortar, and a dozen almonds blanched and beat fine, take two [Page] French rolls and take out the crumb. and fry it brown in butter, and put in with three parts of the muscle liquor, season it with salt and little Cayan pepper, and stew it till the liquor is half wasted: in the mean time get a parsnep and a carrot, scraped and cut in thin slices, fry them brown in butter; rub the soup through a sieve and put it into a stew-pan, with the fried carrot and parsnep, and half the muscles, stew them gently for fifteen minutes; take the other half of the muscles and liquor, put them into a stew pan with a quarter of a pound of butter, and shake in a little flour, and keep it stirring till the butter is melted; season it with pepper and salt, and grate in a little nutmeg, beat the yolks of three eggs up and put in, keep it stirring till it is thick, or else it will curdle, put it into the french rolls after they are crispt before the fire, and pour your soup hot into a tureen, with the rolls swimming at the top.

Milk Soup.

Take two quarts of new milk, two sticks of cinnamon, two or three bay leaves, a very little basket salt, and fine sugar to sweeten it, put it over the fire to heat; in the mean time blanch half a pound of sweet almonds, and beat them fine in a marble mortar, put in a little milk, to keep them from oiling, grate a little lemon-peel into the almonds, and when the milk, &c. boils strain it to the almonds, put it [...] a pot, with half a nutmeg grated, and boil it up for two or three minutes; c [...]t some slices of French bread, and crisp them before the fire, put them into a soup-dish or tureen, and pour the soup hot over them.

Milk Soup the Dutch and German Way.

Take a quart of new milk, and boil it with a stick of cinnamon and moist sugar. put some sippets cut in what shape you please into a dish, pour the milk over them, and take out the cinnamon; put it [Page] over a gentle charcoal fire to simmer till the bread is soft, beat the yolks of two eggs and mix with a little of the milk; then mix it all together, and send it to the table in a tureen hot.

Egg Soup.

Beat the yolks of two eggs in a deep dish, with a piece of butter as big as a hen's egg, take a tea-kettle of boiling water in one hand, and a spoon in the other, pour in a quart gently, and keep it stirring till the eggs are well mixed and the butter melted, then poor it into a stew-pan, and stir it till it simmers; take it off the fire, and pour it between two vessels, out of one into the other, till it is quite smooth and has a great froth, then set it on the fire, and stir it all the while till it is hot, but not boil; pour it into a tureen, and send it hot to table.

Turnip Soup.

Take a large bunch of turnips and pare them, save out three or four, put the rest on in a gallon of water, with a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion stuck with cloves, a blade of mace, a little whole pepper, half a nutmeg, a little salt, and the crust of a penny loaf; boil it till the turnips are tender, then rub it through a sieve till all the turnips and bread are rubbed through, put it into a stew pan, with four heads of cellery cut small, two turnips cut into dice, cut one turnip and two or three carrots into thin slices, flour them, and fry them brown in fresh butter, and four onions cut in slices and fried brown, two ounces of vermicelli; boil it gently till all the roots are tender, then send it up hot in a tureen, with crispt French bread at the top.

Soup Maigre.

Put half a pound of fresh butter into a stew-pan, and melt it till it is done hissing, have a dozen round onions pecled, through them in, and shake them well [Page] about for five minutes; then put in six heads of cellery cut small, two handsful of spinach well picked and washed, two cabbage lettuces cat fine, with a pint of green peas [...] in season; shake them in the pan for fifteen minutes, put in a little flour, and pour in two quarts of boiling water, and stale crusts of bread cut in small pieces, season it with pepper and salt, and a little beaten mace, stir it well together, and stew it gently for half an hour: take it of the fire, beat the yolks of two eggs and put in, with a spoonful of vinegar, stir it about, and then put it into a tureen.

You may make it thus. Get a quart of Moratto peas, and boil them in three quarts of water, with [...] onions sliced and fried brown in butter, four heads of cellery cut small, a carrot, turnip, and parsnep, [...]eason it with pepper and salt, a little beaten mace, and stew it gently till the peas are very tender; then [...] it all well through a sieve till the pulp is all through: have ready some cellery cut small and boiled tender, a handful of spinach stewed and squeezed very dry, put them into the soup, and boil it up ten minutes; take it off the fire, and put in a gill of spinach juice, stir it well up, and put it into a tureen; send it to table hot.

N. B. Asparagas tops or artichoke bottoms boiled tender, when in season, is a great addition.

Plum Porridge.

Put a knuckle of veal cut very small, into a gallon of water, with a bundle of sweet herbs, six blades of mace, when the scum rises skim it well, and put in two pounds of raisins of the sun, and one pound of pruens, boil it three hours, then rub it all well through a sieve till all the pulp of the raisens and pruens is through: put it into a soup-pot, with a [...]int of sack, half a pound of fine sugar, half a pound of raisins stoned and picked, and half a pound of currants well washed and picked, grate in a whole nutme [...] boil it gently up half an hour, and stir it often; [Page] put it into a soup-dish or tureen, with crispt French bread at the top.

Common Plum Porridge for Christmas.

Take a leg and shin of beef and cut them small, put them into eight gallons of water, when the scum rises skim it well, boil it for six hours, then strain it into a pan, clean out the pot, and pour your broth in again; slice the crumb of six penny loaves very thin, and put some of the broth to them, cover them up for a quarter of an hour, then give it a boil up, and rub it through a sieve into the broth; have ready six pounds of currants well washed and picked, four pounds of jar raisins picked and stoned, and two pounds of pruens, boil all these in the soup till they swell and are tender; then put in half an ounce of mace, half an ounce of cloves, and two nutmegs, all beat fine; mix them in a little cold broth first, and then put them in, with four pounds of sugar, two quarts of sack, and the juice of four lemons; boil it up ten minutes, keep it stirring▪ then put it into earthen pans, and put it by for use: when you want it make it hot, and send it in a soup-dish or tureen, with crispt French bread.

Portable Soup.

Take three legs of veal and one of beef, with ten pounds of lean ham, all cut very small, put a quarter of a pound of butter at the bottom of a large pot or cauldron, and the meat and ham in, with four oun [...] of anchovies, two ounces of mace, a bunch of cellery, six carrots washed well, a large bundle of sweet herbs, a spoonful of whole pepper, and a hard crust of a penny loaf; sweat it over a slow fire till you find all the juices are drawn out of the meat, then cover it with boiling water, and skim it well; let it boil gently for four or five hours, then strain it off to settle, pour it clear from the settlings first, skim the fat off well, and pour it into a pot, and boil it till it is a strong jelly, and as stiff as glue; season it with Cayan [Page] pepper and salt, then pour it into little tin moulds; let it stand till cold, then turn it out of the moulds, put it on places, and dry it in the fun, or at a great distance before the fire, keep turning it often till it is quit dry; then put it in tin boxes, with a piece of writing paper between each cake; put them in a dry place for use. This is very useful soup for travel [...]ers, or large families; for by putting one small cake into a pint of boiling water, and giving it a boil up, it will make a pint of good soup; or a little boiling water poured on a cake, will make good gravy for a turkey or two fowls. It possesses one good quality, it never loses any of its virtue by keeping.

CHAP. III.
FISH.

Proper Rules to be observed in dressing Fish.

AS fish is a curious article in the art of cookery, it will not be amiss to give a chapter adapted entirely for dressing it.

Be careful that your fish-kettles are kept clean from sand, or any thing sticking to the sides, as the scum of the fish will occasion, and that they are well tinned, and the frying-pans the same, your fat well rendered and clear: be sure to have your fish well scaled, gutted, and washed clean, before you dress it; when you boil it use spring water, and be sure to let it boil before you put in the fish with salt according to the size of the fish; and when broiled or fried dry it well with a cloth, for when it is wet it will not broil well nor fry crisp; never use any vinegar [Page] to salmon or trout, as it draws the colour out; boil your fish gently, if you boil it quick it often breaks it to pieces, which very much disfigures it, and spoils the beauty of your fish; for when whole and looks well to the sight, it gives the company a good opinion of it; when it boils, and the scum and froth rise, skim it clean off, and take great care that your fish goes hot to table, as nothing is so disagreeable as cold fish.

As turtle is a fish, we shall give the directions for dressing it first, so proceed with every sort, and the different ways they are to be dressed.

To dress a Turtle the West-India Way.

As turtles are of various sizes, from one pound to eight or nine hundred weight, I shall confine my directions to one of about fifty or sixty pounds, bigger or less in proportion. Kill your turtle the night before you intend to dress it, which you most proceed to do in the following manner. Tie it by its hind [...] with a cord sufficient to hold it, then cut off the head and hang it up to bleed all night; in the morning cut the callipee, which is the belly, round, and raise it up, cut as much of the white meat to it as you conveniently can, throw it into spring water and salt for half an hour, cut the fins oil and scald them with the head, and take the scales off, cut all the white part out, and throw it into spring water (the guts and lungs must be taken out, but be careful you do not break the gall) wash the lungs and heart well, and slit the guts and maw all through with a penknife, wash them well in warm water, scrape all the inside skin off, and boil them till tender in two gallons of water; (you had better throw the liver away, seldom any per [...] [...] [...] it, and it always makes your turtle look black) then take and saw the hack shell about two inches deep all round, scald it, and take off the shell; in the mean time make a good real stock in the following manner. Take a knuckle of veal and two neat's feet cut in small pieces, and put [Page] them on, with three gallons of water, a bundle of sweet herbs, four onions, a quarter of an ounce of cloves and mace, and when it boils skim it well, boil it for three hours and strain it off; cut all the white meat from the bones, save out about two pounds, and cut it in pieces as big as an egg, put a quarter of a pound of butter at the bottom of a stew-pan, put in the white meat, set it over a slow fire, and sweat it gently till you find in tender; put the lungs and the part of the back shell into a stew-pan, and cover them with the veal stock, with six shallots, two onions, a little basil, sweet marjorum, winter savory, thyme, and parsley, all chopped fine, a quarter of an ounce of cloves and mace, and twelve corns of all-spice beat fine, and stew it till tender; take it out of this liquor, and strain it off, put the fins on in the same manner as the lungs, and stew them till tender; take them out of the liquor and strain it off, put half a pound of butter into a stew-pan, melt it, and put three spoonsful of flour in, stir it well till it is smooth, and by degrees pour in the liquor that came from the lungs and white meat, and stir it well till it boils, put in a bottle of Madeira, and season it with Cayan pepper and salt pretty high; cut your lungs and the part of the back shell in pieces, with the two hind fins cut in three pieces each, and the white meat put in; stew it fifteen minutes, put a stiff paste all round the edge of the backshell, which is called the [...], and ornament it with leaves, &c. cut out of the paste to your fancy, season the shell with Cayan pepper and salt, put in these ingredients▪ with the juice of two lemons, some force-meat and egg balls and bake it two hours; raise the white meat of the belly shell, which is called the callipee, and stuff it with force-meat, then notch it across at the top, and season it with beaten spice, basil, marjorum winter savory, and thyme, chopped [...]ine, and some little bits of butter here and there on it, some Cayan pepper and salt, put a paste round the rim, and bake it three hours; put the bones and the two pounds of white meat [...], with some of the stock and a quart of water, with a bundle [Page] of sweet herbs, some cloves and mace, and stew it till yon find the soup is good: strain it off, then put it in a soup-pot, thicken it with flour and butter about as thick as cream, season it with Cayan pepper and salt, and put in half a pint of Madeira, boil it gently for about fifteen minutes, and skim it well; put some butter into a stew-pan and melt it, with a spoonful of flour, stir it till it is smooth, then by degrees pour in the liquor the fins were stewed in, stir it till it boils, season it with Cayan pepper and salt, half a pint of Madeira, and the juice of a lemon, put in the two fore-fins, and stew them fifteen minutes, with some force-meat and egg balls; put a little butter into another stew-pan, and a spoonful of flour, stir it till it is smooth, and by degrees pour in a pint and a half of hock, stir it till it boils, put the guts and maw, cut in pieces about three inches long, into it, and stew it for fifteen minutes; season it with Cayan pepper and salt, mix the yolks of three eggs with a pint of cream, and grate some nutmeg in, put it in, and keep it stirring till it is ready to boil▪ then take it off, keep it shaking, and squeeze in a lemon; have your callipash, callipee, soup, fins, and fricasee, all hot together, and dish them up hot in the following manner, your soup in a tureen in the middle.

| CALLIPASH. |
FRICASEE | SOUP | FINS
| CALLIPEE. |

When you send the callipash and callipee to bake, you should put them in a tin dripping pan, and put bricks underneath to keep them steady, that the liquor may not spill.

Another Way to dress a Turtle.

Kill your turtle the over-night, as before directed, cut the belly shell all round, and raise it up, cut it clean from the meat in the inside, cut of the fins, [Page] and cut out the white meat, wash it well in spring water, and put it in spring water for half an hour; take out the guts and lungs, and throw the lungs into water, treat the guts as before directed, saw off the rim of the back shell about two inches deep, scald the fins, head, and shells in hot water, and clean off the scales and shells; have ready a veal broth, made as follows: Cut a knuckle of veal of about six pounds and two neat's feet in small pieces, put them on in two gallons of water, and when it boils skim it well, and put in a bundle of sweet herbs, six onions, four turneps, and two carrots, [...] cloves and mace, and a little all-spice, boil it for three hours, and then strain it off; put your fins, head, the belly and back shells in, and cover them with the veal broth, with a quarter of an ounce of cloves and mace, half a nutmeg, and twelve corns of all-spice, beat fine, some basil, sweet marjorum, winter savory, thyme, and parsley, chopped very fine, six shallots and two onions chopped fine, stew them till they are tender, then strain the liquor from them; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stew-pan, and cut the white meat in pieces as big as an egg and put in, with a quart of the broth, a bundle of sweet herbs, and a little salt, set it over a slow fire, and stew it gently till you find it is tender, then strain the liquor from it, and wash the meat in warm water, to wash the c [...]rd and scum off; throw away the liver, put the lungs and heart in some veal broth, and stew them till they are tender with a bundle of sweet herbs, then strain the liquor from them, and cut them in small pieces, and the fins and brawn from the back and belly shells cut, in pieces, and take the meat from the head, wash them in warm water clear from the herbs and spice; put a pound of butter into a stew-pan big enough to hold all the turtle, and melt it, then put in four large spoonsful of four, stir it till is smooth, and by degrees put in all the broth, keep it stirring till it is quite smooth, then put in two bottles of Madeira, [Page] and all the meat, fins, tripe, &c. with three dozen of force-meat balls and three dozen of egg balls, season it with Cayan pepper and salt pretty high, and stew it one hour very gently, squeeze in four lemons, stew it five minutes longer, and skim it well; then taste if it is of a fine taste, that it wants nothing, either of wine, seasoning, or lemon, if it does put it in; in the mean time put a paste round the back shell, as before directed▪ and season the shell with Cayan pepper and salt, and put in half a pint of Madeira, and bake it one hour; put some of the turtle into the shell and brown it with a salamander, and the rest in tureens as hot as possible.

N. B. When you dress a small under turtle under twenty pounds, you will have no occasion to bake the shell, but cut the shell all up, and take the brawn out, and serve it in tureens.

Sturgeon in Imitation of Turtle.

Make a veal broth as for turtle, gut and scale about eight pounds of sturgeon, and wash it well, cut the brawn off the white part, and cut both in small square pieces, put them in a stew-pan and cover them with broth, a bundle of sweet herbs, a dozen shallots chopped fine, a quarter of an ounce of cloves and mace beat fine, stew it gently till it is [...]ear tender; mix a bottle of Madeira with four spoonsful of flour very smooth, put it in and stir it well about, and season it high with Cayan pepper and salt; stew it gently for half an hour, then put force-meat and egg balls in, squeeze in the juice of two lemons, and boil it up two or three minutes: take out the sweet herbs, put it in a tureen, and send it to table as hot as possible.

To boil a Turbot.

First gut your turbot and wash it well, then cut it across the back, and draw your knife just above the fins through the back-skin, sprinkle a little salt over it, which will fetch all the slime off; make a kettle of spring water boil, and put in a handful of salt, [Page] with a bundle of parsley and half a lemon; wash your turbot well from the slime, and put it in on a fishdrainer, with a sheet of white paper over it, and boil it gently▪ a turbot of eight pounds will take half an hour, bigger or lesser in proportion; take it out of your kettle, and let it drain the water from it, then carefully slip it on your dish, with a fish-plate in it, and take the paper off; garnish it wish fish-parties, lemon, and parsley, and send lobster, shrimp, and anchovy sauce in boats.

To dress a Turbot the Dutch Way.

Take your turbot alive and gut it, cut it four times across the back and belly, wash it well in spring water, and put it in spring water and salt for one hour to crimp; have a kettle of spring water boiling, put in salt enough to make it pretty salt, but not too salt, wash the turbot out, put it in and boil it moderately fast for fifteen minutes; then throw in a large handful of parsley, well picked and washed, and boil it five minutes longer; have a deep soup-dish, and carefully take out the turbot, put it in with all the parsley, and cover it with the liquor; garnish the dish with green parsley, and send parsley and butter and anchovy sauce in boats, with bread and butter cut very thin in plates.

To bike a Turbot.

Take an earthen dish the size of your turbot, rub butter thick all over it, sprinkle a little pepper and salt and parsley shred fine over it, and grate half a nutmeg over it; cut the head and tail oil the turbot and put it into the dish, pour half a pint of white wine over the fish then with a small brush rub the yolk of an egg on it, with little bits of butter here and there bake it for one hour, or till it is of a fine brown; then put it into your dish that you intend to send it to table in, and put it before the fire to keep hot; take the sauce and stir it well together, put it into a [Page] stew-pan, with a little butter rolled in flour, and a spoonful of anchovy liquor, and one of catchup, squeeze in half a lemon, and boil it up for five minutes; garnish the fish with lemon and parsley, and add shrimps or picked mushrooms to the sauce, and send it in boats or basons.

To boil a Cod's Head.

Take a large cod, and cut the head and shoulders off close to the vent, take out the gills and guts and open the sound, scrape out the blood clean from the back bone, wash in clean, tie it up with packthread, sprinkle a handful of salt over it, and let it lay two hours; have ready a kettle of spring water boiling, put in a handful of salt, two or three bits of horseradish, and a quarter of a pint of vinegar, put the head on a fish-drainer, put it in, and boil it gently; (if a large head, it will take one hour; a middling size, three quarters of an hour, and so on for less) then take it out of the water, and set it across the kettle to drain, slip it gently on the dish, and garnish with smelts fried, or any other small fish, or fried oysters, with horse-radish and parsley, or barberries; send oyster, lobster, shrimp, or cocklesauce, in sauce-boats: the best is oyster and shrimp sauce for cod.

To roast a Cod's Head.

After cleaning it as before, score it with a knife, strew a little [...] on it, and put it into a small tin dripping pan, lay it before a brisk fire, with something behind, that the fire may roast it (all the water that comes from it the first half hour throw away); then with a paste brush rub it over with the yolk of an egg▪ and strew on a little nutmeg, cloves, and mace heat fine, and some bread-crumbs all over; set it to the fire again, and baste it gently with butter, turn it often from one side to the other before the fire, till it is of a fine brown (a large head will take four or five hours roasting) have some melted butter, and put in a spoonful of anchovy, some shrimps [Page] or cockles, with the liquor that comes from the head, stir it well together, and give it a boil (mind it is not oily); put the head in a dish, with the liver boiled, cut in two, and laid on each side; garnish it with horse-radish and parsley, or barberries, with the above sauce and oyster sauce in boats or basons.

To bake a Cod's Head.

Take a deep earthen pan, big enough to hold the head, and butter it well, gut and wash the head very clean, and dry it with a coarse cloth, put it in with a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion stuck with cloves, three blades of mace, a little whole pepper, a nutmeg bruised, a little lemon-peel and horse-radish, rub the head all over with the yolk of an egg, grate some nutmeg over it, and crumbs of bread, with half a pint of water in the dish; bake it three hours in a moderate oven, then take the head, put it into the dish you intend to send it to table in, and cover it; put it over boiling water, or before the fire, to keep hot; strain the liquor that the head was boiled in into a stew-pan, with some ketchup, and shrimps or cockles, thicken it with butter rolled in flour, give it a boil, put it over the head, and garnish with fish-patties, horse-radish, and parsley, with oyster or lobster sauce in boats or basons.

To stew a Cod's Head in Claret.

Take a cod's head, gut, gill, and wash it clean, tie it up with packthread, put it on a drainer, and put it in a kettle just big enough to hold it; put half a pound of butter in a stew-pan, melt it, and put four spoonsful of flour in, stir it till it is smooth, put four bottles of claret in, and stir it till it boils, then put in a bundle of sweet herbs, a quarter of an ounce of cloves and mace▪ and a little all-spice, a gill of ketchup, a spoonful of anchovy liquor, blanch a pint of oysters, and strain the liquor in, season it high with Cayan pepper and [Page] salt, and stew it half an hour; then strain it through a sieve to the cod's head, (but mind it is very thick, for the juice of the cod's head will thin it) put in a pint of mushrooms, the oysters washed and bearded, a quarter of an ounce of truffles and morels scalded and washed clean, with two or three cod's sounds, fresh or salt, boiled tender and [...]ut in small pieces; stew it gently one hour and a half, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and if it [...] seasoning put it in, as it should be well seasoned; take it carefully and lay it in a deep dish, untie [...], but mind you do not break it, pour the sauce and ingredients over, garnish with fish-patties, fried sippets, or oysters and horse radish.

To boil Cod or Codlings.

As these fish differ so much in size, it is almost impossible to give a good receipt for dressing them; but by many years practice I will give the best I can: Cut, gill, and wash the fish well, turn it round with the tail in its month, and tie or skewer it; have ready a kettle of spring water boiling, and put in salt according to the size of your fish, boil it gently for fear of breaking, (a middling sized one will take half an hour, bigger or less in proportion) then take it out of the water, and set it across the kettle two minutes to drain; [...]ip it very gently into the dish, and garnish with horse-radish, parsley, lemon, or barberries, as you please, with oyster and anchovy sauce in boats.

To crimp Cod.

Take your cod alive and gut it, cut it in slices about an inch and a half thick, wash it clean in spring water; have ready a large pan of spring water, throw in a handful of salt, put in your fish, and let it lay two hours; then wash it clean out and put it to drain

[Page]

To boil Crimp Cod.

Have a stew-pan of spring water boiling, put in a a handful of salt, put the cod on a drainer, put it in and boil it very quick ten minutes; then take it out of the water, and set it across to drain, and take a smooth brush and wash it with the water, to clean off any sk [...]m or d [...] which may happen to be on it; lay a napkin in your dish, put the fish on, cover it over, and send oyster, and anchovy sauce in boats with scraped horse-radish in a plate.

To broil Crimp Cod.

Take and wipe the slices very dry with a cloth, and flour them on both sides; have a very clear fire, put on the gridiron, and mind it is very clean, rub it with a little beef or mutton fat, put on the fish, and broil it of a fine brown on both sides, but not burnt; put it in a hot dish, and garnish with horse-radish and parsley, with oyster and anchovy sauce in boats.

To fricassee Cod.

Get two or three cods sounds and boil them till tender (if salt ones you must soak them in water all night) cut the roe in small pieces, and blanch it with the liver cut in pieces, put them into a stew-pan, with two or three slices of cod about two inches thick, with a pint of fish broth or boiling water, season it with a little beaten mace, nutmeg and salt to your palate, a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion stuck with cloves, cover them close and stew them ten minutes, but not too fast; then put in a gallon of white wine, a few oysters blanched, a piece of butter rolled in flour; take out the onion and sweet herbs, shake it round gently, mix the yolks of two eggs with half a pint of cream, put it in gently till it boils up; then squeeze in half a lemon, put it very carefully into the dish and garnish with fried sippets▪ Mind to cut the sound into square pieces.

[Page]

To fry small Codlings.

Gut and wash them clean, dry them in a cloth, and turn them round; make a batter thus: Take two or three spoonsful of flour, and mix it with small beer or ale till it is smooth, then put the fish in; have ready a panful of hot fat, put the fish into the batter, and let the batter cover it, then put it into the [...]at, and fry it of a fine brown; put it on a drainer before the fire to drain the fat from it, then put it into a hot dish, and garnish with horse-radish, with anchovy sauce in boats.

To boil Salmon.

Gut and scale the salmon, wash it well, and split it all through; have ready a kettle of spring water boiling, throw in a handful of salt, three or four bits of horse-radish, put your fish, cut in as large or small pieces as you fancy, on a drainer, the backside uppermost, and put it in, boil it gently for three quarters of an hour, (if the fish is very thick it will take an hour; be sure you skim it well) take it out of the water and set it across the kettle to drain, and with a paste-brush wash i [...] well at the top, clear from all scum or dirt that may settle on it; put it into the dish, and garnish with fried smelts, oyster-patties, horse-radish, parsley, or barberries, with lobster and shrimp sauce in boats.

Salmon au Court Bouillon.

Take about eight pounds of the middle of a salmon, scale and wash it very clean, score the sides about two inches deep that it may take the seasoning, beat a quarter of an ounce of pepper ground fine, and some salt, a lemon peel and a handful of parsley chopped fine, mix it up with a pound of butter rolled in flour, and put it into the notches; roll it up in a napkin, and bind it with a sillet, put it into a fish-kettle just big enough to hold it, pour [Page] in a quart of white wine, a bundle of sweet herbs, some salt, and a spring of bay leaves, with as much boiling water as will cover it, boil it gently one hour and a half; then fold a napkin in your dish, take it out of the napkin it was boiled in, and put it in the dish; garnish with crispt parsley, serve it up with plain butter in a boat, grated horse-radish, and vinegar made hot.

Salmon a la Braise.

Take the double jowl end of the salmon, or a large salmon trout, scale, gut, and wash it clean, take a large eel, skin, gut, and wash it, take all the fish from the bones, chop it fine, with two anchovies, a little lemon peel cut fine, grate half a nutmeg in, some parsley and a little thyme chopped fine, a few crumbs of bread, a little pepper and salt, roll them up with the yolks of two eggs, and put it in the belly of the fish, sew it up, and lay it in a long fish- kettle just big enough to hold it; put half a pound of butter into a stew-pan and melt it, shake in three large spoonsful of flour, and stir it till it is a little brown, then pour in a pint of any sort of broth, with a bottle of white wine, a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion stack with cloves, a spoonful of anchovy liquor, and a little beaten mace; stew it for half an hour, then strain it through a sieve over your salmon, put in half a pint of fresh mushrooms peeled and washed, an ounce of truffles and morels well washed and cut small, season it with Cayan pepper and salt pretty high, cover it close, and stew it gently one hour and a half; then take put the salmon, be very careful you do not break it, [...]ut it in a deep dish, and pour the sauce over; garnish with fish-patties and horse-radish, or barberries. This is a very elegant dish for a genteel or large company.

To boil a Jowl of pickled salmon.

When salmon or other fish is dear and scarce, [Page] take a jowl of pickled salmon and lay it in spring water all night; have a kettle of spring water boiling, with a little salt in it, put the jowl on a fish-plate and put it in, boil it gently, fifteen minutes; take it out of the water gently, and be careful you do not break it, and slip it into your dish; garnish with lemon and barberries, with lobster, shrimp, or anchovy sauce in a boat.

To colver Salmon.

Get a live salmon, scale and gut it, cut it in slices about two inches thick, wash it clean in spring water, and then put it in a large pan of spring water for two hours, then take it out to drain.

To boil colver Salmon.

Have a stew-pan of spring-water boiling, throw in a handful of salt, put your slices of salmon on a fish-plate, and boil it quick for fifteen minutes, then take it out, and wash the scum off with a paste-brush, lay a napkin in your dish, and put it one the napkin; garnish with green parsley, with lobster and anchovy sauce in boats.

To broil Salmon.

Either take colver▪ or any other salmon cut in slices, dry it well in a cloth, flour it, and sprinkle a little pepper and salt on it; have a very clear fire, and broil it on both sides of a brown, put it into a hot dish, and garnish with horse-radish, with anchovy sauce and plain butter in boats.

To broil Salmon in Paper.

Scale and wash three pounds of salmon, cut it in slices an inch thick, dry it with a cloth, season it with pepper and salt and a little grated nutmeg; butter two half sheets of white paper and roll the salmon in it, and fasten the paper all round by pinching it [Page] over; broil it gently over a very clear fire for twenty minutes, put it in a hot dish, with anchovy sauce and plain butter in boats.

To boil fresh or salt Water Trout.

Gut your trout, but never scale it, as that takes off the beauty of the fish, wash it well, and tie a packthread round the nose of it, and with a large needle or skewer put it through the middle and draw it to the tail, till you make it the figure of an S▪ tie it in that form to the tail, and put it on a drainer; have ready a kettle of spring water [...] boiling, put in some salt to make it relishing, then put in your fish and boil it gently (if a middle sized half an hour) take it out of the water and let it drain a moment, put a folded napkin in your dish, and put the fish whole upon it; garnish with parsley, with lobster and anchovy or shrimp sauce in boats.

N. B. If your fish is alive gut and wash it, cut it across on both sides, and lay it in spring water one hour to crimp before you dress it, and boil it fifteen minutes.

To dress Trout the Dutch Way.

Take your trout alive, gut them, and cut them across on both sides to the bone, wash them well, then throw them into spring water and salt for one hour to crimp; put on a kettle of spring water, enough to cover your fish, with a handful of salt, make it boil for five minutes, then put your fish on a drainer, put them in and boil them ten minutes; then put in a handful of parsley well picked and washed, and boil them five minutes longer; take your fish very carefully out and lay them in a deep dish, with horse-radish, with anchovy sauce and plain butter in boats, and bread and butter cut thin in plates.

To boil Cod Sounds.

Take six or eight large sounds, and lay them in [Page] water to freshen (some will take two days and [...] night) then wash them well and put them on in milk and water, and boil them till tender; put them in a dish, with hard eggs cut in two, and some chopped fine for garnish, with egg sauce in a boat. You may boil two pars [...]eps and cut them in pieces, and some potatoes, put them in a dish together or separate, as you please.

N. B. If you can get them fresh they will not want soaking, as it is meant for salt ones; only take care to clean them.

To broil Cod Sounds.

Treat them as above till boiled, and take them out of the liquor, dry them well with a cloth, pepper and flour them, and broil them over a clear fire till they are brown; then lay them in a hot dish, and pour melted butter and mustard mixed over them.

To fricassee Cod Sounds.

Treat them as above, and cut them in square pieces, put them into a stew-pan, with a little pepper and salt, beaten mace and nutmeg, as much cream as will be sauce enough, and a piece of butter rolled in flour, keep shaking the pan well, till the butter is melted, and as thick as you would have it; put them into a hot dish, and garnish with lemon and beet root.

To boil Scaite or Thornback.

Take your scaite or thornback and skin it on both sides, gut and gill it, wash it very clean, and put it in water for one hour; have a kettle of spring water boiling, put in a handful of salt, put the fish on a drainer, and put it in: boil it, if a middle-sized one, half an hour (bigger or less in proportion) and skim it well; take it out of the water and put it over the kettle to drain, and with a brush wash it with the hot liquor; put it on your dish, and garnish with▪ [Page] horse-radish and parsley, or barberries, with shrimp and anchovy sauce in boats.

To crimp Scaite or Thornback.

Take your fish alive, skin it, gut and gill it, wash it very clean, cut it in long slips the whole length of the fish, about an inch broad, roll it over your finger, and throw it into spring water; cut the middle part into any form you like, wash it out, and put it into spring water for one hour, then wash it clean out, and put it to drain for use.

To boil crimped Scaite or Thornback.

Have a stew-pan of spring water boiling, throw in a handful of salt, put the fish on a drainer, and put it into the water; boil it ten minutes, skim it well, take it out of the water, and hold it to drain a moment▪ put a folded napkin in your dish, and carefully lay the fish on; garnish with horse-radish and parsley, with shrimp and anchovy sauce in boats.

To fry crimped Scaite or Thornback.

Cut the fish in pieces, about five or six inches long dry it well with a cloth, make a batter with flour and mild ale, put the fish in, and cover it all over with the batter; have a pan of hot fat, put in your fish, and fry it of a fine brown; take it out, and lay it on a drainer to drain the fat from it, put it in a hot dish, and garnish with lemon and horse radish, with anchovy sauce in boats.

To stew Scaite or Thornback.

Take about four pounds of scaite or thornback and skin it, and then cut your fish in handsome square pieces, wash it well, and dry it in a cloth, put in a pint of good gravy, a pint of red▪ wine, an onion stuck with cloves, a little beaten mace, a bundle of sweet herbs, a spoonful of anchovy liquor, and stew it gently for half an hour; take out the onion and [Page] sweet herbs, and put in some butter rolled in flour, shake it about, and make it of a good thickness, season it with Cayan pepper and salt, a spoonful of ketchup, and stew it for ten minutes longer; skim it well, squeeze in half a lemon, give it a shake round, and then put it into a hot dish; garnish with lemon or fried oysters; you may put in mushrooms, oysters, or artichoke bottoms cut in pieces, if you think proper.

To fricassee Scaite or Thornback.

Skin the fish on both sides, gut it and wash it clean, cut it in pieces about an inch broad and two or three inches long, lay it in a stew-pan (to every pound of fish put a quarter of a pint of water) put in a bundle of sweet herbs, a little beaten mace, nutmeg, and a little salt, cover it close, and stew it fifteen minutes; take out the sweet herbs, put in a pint of cream and a glass of white wine, and keep shaking the pan one way, till it is thick and smooth; then dish it up, and garnish with lemon.

To boil Sturgeon.

Take a piece of sturgeon of about eight pounds, gut it and wash it clean, lay it in salt and water four hours; have a kettle just big enough to hold it, put in as much spring water as will cover it, and to two quarts of water put a pint of vinegar, a stick of horse-radish cut in slices, two or three bits of lemon-peel, a spoonful of whole pepper, six bay leaves, and a handful of salt; boil it for ten minutes, then lay the fish on a drainer and put it in, and boil it gently for one hour and a half; then take it up, put it across the kettle to drain, and put it on your dish; garnish with crispt parsley and barberries, with the following sauce in boats: put half a pint of red wine, half a pint of gravy, with two spoonsful of anchovy liquor, or ketchup, a little butter rolled in flour, boil it for ten minutes, keeping it stirring till [Page] it is smooth; shrimp or cockle sauce and plain butter.

To roast Sturgeon.

Take a piece of sturgeon of about seven or eight pounds and wash it well, put it into a deep dish, take half a pint of white wine, half a pint of vinegar, an onion, a bundle of sweet herbs, six bay leaves, a little mace, cloves, and all-spice, and a spoonful of salt, boil it five minutes, and put it over the fish, keep turning it often, and with a spoon pour the liquor over it; let it lay all night, the next day take it out and dry it with a cloth, spit it, and baste it for one hour with red wine; have ready mixed some crumbs of bread, sweet herbs and parsley chopped fine, a little mace, cloves, and nutmeg beat fine, with pepper and salt, baste it with butter and sprinkle it with herbs till it is almost done, basting it every now and then with butter; a thick piece will take two hours and a half roasting, a thin one two hours, and mind before you take it up it is of a fine brown; have the following sauce: take a pint of water, two or three anchovies, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little lemon-peel, mace, cloves, and whole pepper, and a little horse radish, cover it close and boil it fifteen minutes; then strain it off, put it into a stew-pan again, put in a pint of red wine, and a piece of butter rolled in flour, boil it till it is smooth; then put in the meat of a crab, or half a pint of picked shrimps or prawns, with a dozen oysters, a spoonful of ketchup, and the juice of a lemon, let it boil up five minutes, lay the dish, and put some of the sauce under it, but not over it, as it will spoil the fine brown; garnish with fried sippets and lemon, or barberries, with the rest of the sauce in boats.

To roast a Collar of Sturgeon.

Take a piece of a side of sturgeon, about sixteen or eighteen inches long, cut clean from the bone, take the scales off, wash it well, and dry it in a cloth; [Page] chop a dozen oysters and a quarter of a pint of shrimps very small, an equal quantity of crumbs of bread, a little beaten mace, pepper, and salt, two anchovies chopped, some sweet herbs and parsley chopped fine, mix them together, cut a piece off the thick side in the inside of the fish, and lay it upon the thin side to make it even, rub it all over with the yolks of eggs, and strew the mixture over it; then roll it up tight, run two skewers through it, and tie it with packthread, run the spit through the middle and put it down to the fire, roast it gently for two hours and a half, and baste it well with butter; when it is done take it off the spit, untie it, and pull the skewers out, put it in the dish, and put the same sauce as for roasted sturgeon over it, garnish with fried sippets and horse radish.

To bake a Collar of Sturgeon.

Treat it the same as for roasting, put it into a deep dish, with a pint of red wine, half a pint of water, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little cloves and mace, and a little pepper and salt, flour it over, and put some pieces of butter over it: bake it two hours in a moderate oven, then put it into your dish and cover it, and as quick as you can strain the liquor into a stew-pan, with a little butter rolled in flour, a spoonful of anchovy liquor, a spoonful of ketchup, and the juice of half a lemon; boil it till it is smooth, then pour it over your fish; garnish with fried sippets and horse-radish.

To stew Hollybert.

Take a piece of hollybert of about six pounds, cut across the fish, wash it well▪ and cut the fins close; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stew-pan and melt it, put in three spoonsful of flour, stir it till it is smooth, then pour in a pint of good gravy, a bottle of red wine, and stir it till it boils; then put in a piece of lean ham cut very small, a few cloves and mace, a bundle of sweet herbs, six shallots [Page] chopped fine, season it with salt and Cayan pepper pretty high, boil it for half an hour, put your fish into a pan just big enough to hold it, strain the sauce over it, put in a pint of fresh mushrooms, a dozen oysters, and some truffles and morels, stew it gently till it is tender; then squeeze in a lemon, give it a shake, put it into your dish, and pour the sauce over it; garnish with fish-patties or fried oysters, lemon and barberries.

N. B. You may put water instead of gravy, and leave out the ham, if you do not like it so strong. A head stewed in the same manner is very fine, only allowing more sauce, according to the size.

To boil a John-a-Dore.

Gut the fish and wash it clean; have ready a kettle of spring water boiling, put in a handful of salt, put the fish on a drainer, and put it in, boil it gently for twenty minutes; take it out of the water, let it drain, and put it on your dish; garnish with horseradish and parsley, with lobster and shrimp sauce in boats.

To boil a Brill.

Gut and wash the fish well, throw a little salt over it, and let it lay one hour; have a kettle of spring water boiling, put in some salt, lay the fish on a drainer, and put it in; boil it gently for half an hour, skim it well, then take it up▪ put it across the kettle to drain, put it on the dish, and garnish with horseradish and parsley, with lobster and anchovy sauce in boats.

To boil Soles.

Scale the belly of the soles, and take the skin off the back, gut and wash them clean, and cut the fins off close; have a stew-pan of spring water boiling, put in a little salt, put in your fish and boil them according to the size; (a sole of one pound will take [Page] fifteen minutes, and so on in proportion) take them out of the water, and with a paste-brush wash them clean, put them on your dish, and garnish with lemon and parsley, with shrimp and anchovy sauce in boats.

To dress Soles the Dutch Way.

Take your soles alive, and scale the belly-side, but do not take off the skin, gut and wash them very clean, cut them across on both sides, four times, to the bone, put them in spring water and salt one hour to crimp; have a stew-pan with spring water enough to cover them, put in salt to make it relishing, boil it five minutes, wash your fish and put them in: boil them ten minutes, then put in a handful of parsley, picked and washed clean, and boil them five minutes longer; take the fish carefully out and put them in a soup-dish, put the parsley at top, and pour the liquor in; garnish with lemon and barberries, with anchovy sauce and parsley and butter in boat, with bread and butter cut thin in plates.

N. B. Plaice of flounders are dressed the same way.

To fry Soles.

Scale, gut, and skin the soles, wash them well, cut the [...]ins close, wipe them in a cloth, (if they are large cut them across the back, and flour them with a brush) put some yolk of egg on the belly-side, and sprinkle crumbs of bread on; have ready a pan of hogs lard or beef dripping boiling hot▪ put them in the belly-side downwards, and fry them till they are of a fine brown; turn them, and fry the back-side till done; take them out and put them on a sieve or drainer, to drain the fat from them▪ have ready a handful of parsley picked and washed very clean, throw it into the fat▪ and fry it crisp; put it in a sieve to drain, put the soles in a dish, and garnish with fried parsley and horse-radish, with shrimp and anchovy sauce in boats.

To Stew Soles.

Scale, gut, and skin your soles, wash them well, [Page] cut the fins close, put them in a pan just big enough to hold them; put a quarter of a pound of butter in a stew-pan and melt it, put in two spoonsful of flour, stir it till it is smooth, then put in a pint of gravy and a pint of white wine, stir it till boils, put in six shallots chopped fine, a few cloves, mace, and allspice, half a lemon, and a bundle of sweet herbs, season it with Cayan pepper and salt, boil it for twenty minutes, then strain it over the soles, put in a spoonful of ketchup, cover them close, and stew them half an hour over a very slow fire; put in some oysters blanched, and some pickled mushrooms, stew them five minutes longer, then put them into your dish, and the sauce over them; garnish with fried fippets and lemon.

To fricassee Soles white.

Scale, skin, gut, and wash your soles, cut off their heads, dry them in a cloth, then with a sharp knife cut the fish from the bones and fins, cut them lengthways, and then across, so that each sole will be into eight pieces; take the heads and bones, put them into a sauce-pan, with a pint of water, a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, a little whole pepper, two or three blades of mace, a little lemon-peel, a crust of bread, and a little salt, cover it close, and let it stew till half is wasted; put your soles in a stew-pan, and strain the liquor through a fine sieve over them, and half a pint of white wine, a piece of butter rolled in flour, keep shaking it round for ten minutes; then chop a little parsley fine, and a few mushrooms cut small and put in, grate a little nutmeg in a gill of cream, pour it in, and keep shaking the pan till it is thick and smooth; put it in a hot dish, and garnish with lemon and parsley.

To fricassee Soles brown.

Treat your soles as in the above receipt, boil the bones, flour the fish, and fry it of a light brown in butter; take the fish of a sole, beat it in a mortar, with a piece of bread as big as a hen's egg soaked in [Page] cream, the yolks of two hard eggs, a little butter, a little thyme and parsley shred fine, and an anchovy; season it with a little beaten mace, pepper and salt, beat all well together, and mix it up with the yolk of a raw egg and a little flour, make it into small balls, and fry them of a light brown; put the fish and balls before the fire; pour all the fat out of the pan, and strain the liquor into a stew-pan, with half a pint of red wine, and stir it well round in the pan; put in a few truffles and morels, a few pickled mushrooms, a spoonful of ketchup, and the juice of half a lemon, put in a piece of butter rolled in flour, and keep stirring it till it is smooth and thick; then put in your fish and balls, cover it close, and stew it five minutes▪ put it in a hot dish, pour the sauce over it, and garnish with lemon. You may dress a small turbot or any flat fish in the same manner.

To broil Red Mullet.

Neither scale nor gut your mullet, wipe them very clean in a cloth, butter half a sheet of writing paper for each fish, put them in, and fasten it all round; have a very clear fire, broil them very gently for twenty minutes, then [...]ut them in a dish, with anchovy sauce and plain [...] in boats.

To boil Grey Mullet.

Gut and wash the fish very clean; have a kettle of spring water boiling, put in a handful of salt, lay the fish on a drainer, put them in and boil them f [...] teen minutes; take them out of the water, and let them drain a moment, put them in the dish; garnish with horse-radish and parsley, with anchovy sauce and plain butter in boats.

To broil a Grey Mullet.

Gut and wash your fish clean, dry them well in a cloth, and flour them on both sides; have a clear fire, broil them of a fine brown, and put them in a hot dish; garnish with lemon and barberries, with anchovy sauce and plain butter in boats.

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To broil Weavers.

Cut and wash them clean, dry them in a cloth, and flour them on both sides; have a clear fire, and broil them of a fine brown; put them in a hot dish, with plain butter in a boat. These are a fine fish, and cut as firm as a sole; but be careful you do not wound yourself with the sharp bones in the head, and the sins on the back.

To boil Mackarel.

Gut and wash the mackarel clean, take care of the liver and roe, and put it in the fish again; have a kettle of spring water boiling, put in some salt, put the fish on a d [...]er, and tie them across it with packthread, put them in and boil them; (if large half an hour, smaller twenty minutes) take them up, let them drain a moment, and put them in a dish; garnish with green fennel and scalded gooseberries, with fennel and butter and plain butter in boats.

To broil Mackarel.

Gut your mackarel and wash them clean, split them down the back, wipe them dry with a cloth, sprinkle some pepper and salt on them, with a little fennel, mint, and parsley chopped fine, flour them, and broil them over a clear fire till they are brown; put them in a hot dish, and garnish with scalded, gooseberries and fennel, with fennel and butter and plain butter in boats. You may broil them whole: gut and wash them very clean, chop some fennel mint, and parsley fine, mix it with a piece of butter and a little pepper and salt, stuff the mackarel and wipe them with a cloth, flour them, and broil them gently for half an hour; put them in a hot dish, and garnish with scalded gooseberries and fennel, with plain butter in a boat.

Mackarel a la Maitre de Hotel.

Take three mackarel, gut and wash them clean [Page] wipe them dry in a cloth, flit them down the back from head to tail, but do not open them, flour and broil them over a clear fire; have a hot dish ready, chop a handful of parsley and young onions, well picked and washed very clean, mix it up with a quarter of a pound of butter, and pepper and salt, put the fish in the dish, and the parsley, &c. in the slit; keep them before the fire till the butter is melted, squeeze the juice of two lemons over them, and send them away hot.

To boil Whitings.

Gut and wash the fish clean, and take care of the livers, sprinkle a little salt over them, and let them lay one hour; have a kettle of spring water boiling, put in some salt, put the fish on a drainer, and put them in; boil them gently according to the size, a whiting of a pound weight will take twenty minutes, bigger or less in proportion; take them out of the water, and let them drain a moment, put them in the dish; boil the livers by themselves, and put them with the fish; garnish with horse-radish and parsly, with anchovy sauce and plain butter in boats.

To broil Whitings.

Gut and wash them clean, and put the livers in again, wipe them with a cloth and flour them, broil them over a clear fire till they are brown on both sides, and put them in a hot dish; garnish with horse-radish and parsley, with anchovy sauce and plain butter in boats.

To fry Whitings.

Gut and wash them clean, and with your knife cut all the fins close on the back, slip the skin off, turn them round, put the tails into their mouths, and fasten them with skewers, wipe them with a cloth, then with a paste-brush rub them over with the yolks [Page] of eggs, and sprinkle bread-crumbs over them; have ready a pan of hogs-lard or beef-dripping boiling hot, put them in, and fry them of a fine gold colour; take them out, and put them on a drainer or sieve to drain the fat from them; fry a handful of parsley, put it to drain, and put them in a hot dish; garnish with crispt parsley, with anchovy sauce and plain butter in boats.

To boil Haddocks.

Scale and gut the fish, rip them open, take the black skin out of the inside, wash them well, sprinkle some salt over them, and let them lay two hours; have a kettle of spring water boiling, put in some salt, put the fish on a drainer, and put them in; boil them gently according to the size (a haddock of two pounds will take half an hour, bigger or less in proportion) take them out and set them across the kettle to drain, and with a paste-brush wash them, put them in a dish; boil the livers by themselves, and put them round the fish; garnish with horse-radish and parsley, or barberries, with anchovy sauce in boats.

To broil Haddocks.

Scale, gut, and wash the fish as before, sprinkle them with salt, let them lay an hour, wipe them dry with a cloth, and flour them; have a clear fire, put on the gridiron, make it hot, rub it with beef or mutton suet, put on the fish, and broil them on both sides of a fine brown; boil the livers, and put the fish in a hot dish, with the livers round them; garnish with horse-radish, with shrimp and anchovy sauce in boats.

To fry Haddocks.

Gut and wash them clean, cut the fins on the back close, slip off the skins, turn them ro [...]d with the tails in their mouths, and fasten them with little [Page] skewers, then with a brush put some yolks of eggs on, and strew bread-crumbs over them; have a pan of hogs-lard or beef-dripping boiling hot, put them in, and fry them quick of a fine light brown; take them out, and put them on a drainer before the fire to drain; fry a handful of parsley crisp, and put it on a sieve to drain; put the fish in a hot dish, and garnish with fried parsley, with anchovy sauce in a boat.

Another way is, scale and gut the fish, wash them very clean, cut them in slices about an inch thick, dry them well in a cloth, and flour them; put a pound of butter into a frying-pan, and melt it till it is done hissing, put in your fish, and fry them on both sides till they are brown; put them in a dish before the fire to keep hot, and put a pint of boiling water, a quarter of a pound of butter, a spoonful of anchovy liquor, two spoonsful of ketchup, boil it up, pour it over the fish, and garnish with horse-radish.

To dress Haddock the Spanish Way.

Take two fine haddocks, scale, gut, and wash them well, wipe them with a cloth, and broil them; put a pint of sweet oil in a stew-pan, season it with pepper and salt, a little cloves, mace, and nutmeg beaten two cloves of garlick chopped, pare half a dozen love-apples and quarter them, when in season, put them in, and a spoonful of vinegar, put in the fish, and stew them very gently for half an hour over a slow fire; put them in a hot dish, and garnish with lemon.

To dress Haddocks the Jews Way.

Take two fine large haddocks, scale, gut, and wash them very clean, cut them in slices three inches thick, and dry them in a cloth; put half a pint of sweet oil in a stew-pan, a middling onion and a handful of parsley chopped fine, let it boil up, put in the fish with half a pint of water, season it with beaten mace, pepper [Page] and salt, cover it close, and stew it gently for three quarters of an hour; beat up the yolks of two eggs with the juice of a lemon put them in, and shake the pan well a minute or two; put them in a hot dish, and garnish with lemon.

To boil Pipers or Gurnets.

Gut and wash them clean: have a kettle of spring water boiling, put in a handful of salt, put the fish on a drainer, the belly downwards▪ put them in, and boil them gently half an hour; skim them well, take them out, and put them across the kettle to drain; put them in a dish, and garnish with fried oysters and horse-radish, with lobster and shrimp sauce in boats.

To boil Herrings.

Scale and gut your fish, cut off the heads and wash them clean, sprinkle them with salt, and let them lay an hour; have spring water boiling in a stew-pan, put in some salt, and put in the fish; boil them ten minutes, then take them out, put them in a dish, and garnish with barberries, with melted butter and mustard mixed in a boat.

To broil Herrings.

Scale and gut your fish, (but never wash them) wipe them dry with a cloth, sprinkle some salt and a little flour over them; broil them over a clear fire very brown, put them in a hot dish, with melted butter and mustard mixed, and plain butter in boats.

To fry Herrings.

Scale, gut, and wash them very clean, cut off the heads, wipe them dry with a cloth, flour them, fry them quick and brown in butter, and put them before the fire to keep hot: in the mean time have a pan of hot fat, and fry a handful of parsley crisp, cut some onions in thin slices, dip them in ale batter, [Page] and fry them crisp; put the parsley and onions on a sieve to drain, put the herrings with the tails in the middle, with the parsley and onions round; put butter and mustard, and plain butter in boats.

To fry Smelts.

Pull the gut out, but mind and leave the roe in, wipe them very clean with a cloth, beat up two eggs in a plate, and dip your smelts in on both sides; have crumbs of bread and a little flour mixed in a dish, put the smelts on one by one, and give them a roll over by shaking the dish; have a pan of hogs-lard or beef-dripping boiling hot, put them in, and fry them on both sides of a fine gold colour; take them out, and put them before the fire to drain: fry a handful of parsley crisp, and put it on a sieve to drain; dish them with the tails in the middle, the crispt parsley round for garnish, with plain butter in a boat.

White Bait.

Take your white bait fresh caught, put them in a cloth with a handful of flour, and two people have hold of the cloth, one at each end, and shake them backward and forward till they are quite dry and separated; have some hogs-lard boiling hot, and fry them quick two minutes, put them on a sieve to drain before the fire, and dish them in a hot dish, with plain butter in a boat and soy in a crewet.

To broil Sprats.

Wipe them clean with a cloth, lay them close on a plate, sprinkle a little salt and flour on them, put that side on the gridiron, and sprinkle salt and flour on the other side, broil them on both sides over a clear fire very brown, put them in a hot dish, with bread and butter cut thin in a plate.

To boil Plaice or Flounders.

Gut your fish and cut the fins close, wash them well; have some spring water in a stew-pan boiling, [Page] put in a little salt, put your fish on a drainer, put them in, and boil them ten minutes; take them out, drain them a moment, put them on the dish, and garnish with parsley, with anchovy and parsley sauce in boats.

To fry Plaice or Flounders.

Gut and wash them clean, cut off the heads and fins, dry them in a cloth, flour the backs, and with a brush put some yolks of eggs on the belly, sprinkle bread-crumbs over them; have ready a pan of hogs-lard or beef-dripping boiling hot, put them in belly downwards, and fry them of a fine brown, turn them, and fry them five minutes longer, put them on a drainer or sieve to drain, fry a handful of parsley crisp, put the fish with the tails in the middle of the dish, and garnish with crisp parsley, with anchovy sauce and plain butter in boats.

To boil Barrel or Salt Cod.

As this fish is an article very much approved of by all ranks of people, it Will be proper to give directions for cleaning, soaking, and dressing it: in the first place, take a sharp knife and pare the inside all over, then wash it well, put it into a tub of spring water for twenty-four hours, then wash it out, and put it in spring water for twelve hours longer, take it out of that water, cut it through the middle, and then in pieces across about six inches wide, cut off all the fins▪ have a kettle of spring water boiling, wash it well and put it on a drainer, boil it according to the thickness, if very thick half an hour, if rather thin twenty minutes, and skim it well; then take it up and set it across the kettle to drain, and with the paste-brush wash it well put it in your dish and garnish with hard eggs chopped small, with egg sauce and plain butter in boats; mash some parsneps and put in a dish, with some boiled cut in slices round it; mash some potatoes, and put some whole round [Page] in another dish and send it to table as hot as possible. This is meant for cod that is not dried; if it is dried, it is proper to soak it twelve hours before you pare it, and then proceed as before directed.

To boil Salt Ling.

Pare the inside [...] with a knife, and put it in a large tub of water [...] soak for forty-eight hours, shifting it every twelve hours, then wash it clean out and cut it down the middle and across about six inches wide, put it on a drainer, and put it in spring water cold, boil it gently for half an hour, and skim it well; then take it out of the water, set it across the kettle to drain, wash it well with a paste-brush, put it in your dish, and garnish with boiled parsneps and potatoes, with egg sauce and plain butter in boats.

To dress Bacaloa or Tusk.

YOU must beat it well with a hammer or a wooden pestle on a block, then lay it in a large tub of water to soak for forty-eight hours, shifting the water every twelve hours; then take it out and wash it well, cut the bones out, cut it in piece about six inches wide, put it into soft water cold, and simmer it two hours; then take it up, set it across the kettle to drain, wash it well with a paste-brush, and put it in a dish; garnish with boiled parsneps, with egg sauce and melted butter and mustard in boats.

To broil dried Salmon.

Cut it in slices, put it into warm water for ten minutes▪ take it out and wipe it dry with a cloth, pepper it, and broil it brown on both sides over a clear fire; then put it in a hot dish, with plain butter in a boat.

To boil Scotch or Salt Haddocks.

Lay them in water all night, in the morning [Page] wash them out, and put them in fresh water, and let them lay till you want to use them; then put them into cold spring water, and boil them ten minutes; put them in the dish, with boiled potatoes round, and egg sauce and plain butter in boats. If you choose to broil them after they are soaked, split them, dry them with a cloth, pepper and broil them over a clear fire, (five or six minutes will do them) with plain butter and mustard in boats.

To broil dried Whitings.

Lay the whitings in warm water for ten minutes, take them out, dry them with a cloth, with a feather rub them over with sweet oil, put them over a clear fire, turn them quick, and every time you turn them rub them over with sweet oil, which will moisten them and make them eat mellow; (five or six minutes will do them) put them in a hot dish, and send them up to table without any sauce, as they are generally eat with oil and mustard.

British or pickled Herrings boiled.

Lay them in water the over-night, in the morning wash them out, and put them in fresh water, let them lay till you want to use them; then put them in a kettle with cold water, and boil them fifteen minutes; put them in your dish, with mashed potatoes in another, and plain butter [...] a boat.

To boil a Pike.

Scale, gill, and gut the fish, and wash it well make a stuffing in the following manner: Chop a dozen oysters small, the crumb of a penny loaf soaked in cream, a quarter of a pound of butter, two anchovies chopped fine, a little grated nutmeg, some sweet herbs and parsley, with a little lemon-peel shred fine, season it with pepper and salt, mix it up well together, put it into the belly and sew it up; then tie a string round the nose, and with a large [Page] needle or skewer put it through the middle, and make it in the form of an S, by tying the string to the tail, and put it on a drainer; have a fish-kettle of spring water boiling, with a handful of salt, put it in and boil it gently according to its size; (a pike of eight pounds will take a full hour boiling, bigger or less in proportion) take it up and set it across the kettle to drain; put it in your dish, and garnish with fish-paties or fried oysters and horse-radish, with strong anchovy sauce and plain butter in boats. You may if you please boil it without the stuffing.

To roast or bake a Pike.

Treat it with a stuffing the same as for boiling, put it on an iron baking-plate, rub the yolk of an egg over it, sprinkle some crumbs of bread on it, put some bits of butter here and there over it, bake it two hours in a moderate oven, or put it in a tin oven before the fire and roast it; baste it often with butter, and turn it from one side to the other before the fire, till it is of a fine brown; put it in the dish, with fish patties and horse-radish for garnish, put gravy sauce and anchovy sauce in boats.

To boil Carp or Tench.

Scale, gut, and wash the fish well; have ready a kettle of spring water boiling, put in a handful of salt, a bundle of sweet boils, some bay leaves, and half a pint of vinegar, put your fish on a drainer, put them in, and boil them half an hour, take them out and set them across the kettle to drain▪ fold a napkin, put it in your dish, and put the fish on; garnish with horse-radish and parsley, with anchovy sauce in boats. Be sure to save the livers, melts, or roes, and boil them by themselves, and put them round the fish.

To fry Carp or Tench.

Scale and gut the carp or tench, wash them clear, [Page] dry them in a cloth, and flour them; put a pound of butter into a stew pan, make it hot, fry them on both sides of a fine brown▪ put them on a sieve to drain; cut, some sippets [...] corner ways, and fry them with the roes or m [...]s, put the fish in a hot dish, with the sippets and roes all round; garnish with lemon, with anchovy sauce in boats.

Another Way to fry Carp or Tench.

Take three carp or tench, scale them, and pull the guts out by the gills, but do not open the bellies, wash them clean, and with the point of a knife slit them down the backs on each side of the bone, from the head to the tail, raise the flesh up a little, and take out the bone; take another carp or tench, cut all the fish off, and mince it small, with a few mushrooms, cives, sweet herbs, and parsley shred fine, season them with beaten cloves, mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt, beat them in a mortar very fine, and put in the crumb of a roll soaked in cream▪ two ounces of butter, with the yolks of three raw eggs; stuff your carp or tench, and sew the back up with a needle and thread, wipe them with a cloth, flour them, fry them in butter of a fine brown, and lay them on a coarse cloth before the fire to drain; pour all the fat out of the pan, put in a quarter of a pound of butter, shake in some flour keep it stirring till the butter is a little brown, then put in half a pint of white wine, half a pint of ale, an onion stuck with cloves, a bundle of sweet herbs, and two blades of mace, cover them close, and stew them gently fifteen minutes; then strain it▪ off and put it in a stew-pan again, add two spponsful of ketchup, an ounce of truffles and morels cut small and boiled in half a pint of water, put the water in, with half a pint of oysters blanched, liquor and all, (when your sauce is hot season it with Cayan pepper and salt) put in the fish and stew it twenty minutes, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, put the fish in the dish, with [Page] the sauce all over them; garnish with fried sippets and lemon.

To bake Carp.

Scale, gut, and wash a brace of carp, cut the fins off close, and wash them well, take a long earthen pan, just big enough to hold them, butter the pan a little, lay in the carp, season them with mace, cloves, nutmeg, whole pepper, a little salt, a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, and an anchovy, pour in a bottle of white wine, cover them close, and bake them an hour in a hot oven if large, if small three quarters of an hour will do; when they are done take them out carefully, and lay them in a dish, set them over hot water and cover them close to keep hot; then strain the liquor they were baked in into a stew-pan, and skim the fat off, put in half a pound of butter rolled in flour, let it boil, and keep stirring it till it is thick and smooth, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, with a little pepper and salt; pour the sauce over the fish, fry the roes and lay them round; garnish with lemon.

Carp an Blue.

Take a brace of carp and gut them, but neither scale nor wash them, tie them to a fish-drainer, and put them in a fish-kettle, pour boiling vinegar over them till they are blue, (or you may hold them down in a fish-kettle with two forks, and another person pour the vinegar over them) then put in a quart of boiling water, a handful of salt, a stick of horse-radish cut in slices, and boil them gently for twenty minutes; fold a napkin and put it in the dish, put them on the napkin, and garnish with parsley; boil half a pint of cream, grate some horse-radish in, and sweeten it with sugar for sauce in a boat. Be sure to send them up hot.

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To stew Carp or Tench.

Take a brace of carp or three tench, scale, gut, and wash them clean, cut the fins off close, put them in a kettle just big enough to hold them; put four ounces of batter in a stew pan, melt it, and put in a large spoonful of flour, stir it till it is smooth, pour in a pint of good gravy, a pint of red port or claret, six shallots chopped fine, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little cloves, mace, and all spire, one onion, a spoonful of ketchup, and a little anchovy liquor, season it with pepper, salt, and Cayan pepper pretty high; boil it up for twenty minutes, then strain it over the fish▪ put in half a pint of fresh mushrooms, an ounce of truffles and morels, washed well and cut in pieces, half a pint of oysters washed well, cover it close, and put it over a slow fire, with fire on the lid, stew it gently one hour, and give it a gentle shake now and then. to keep the fish from sticking to the pan: in the mean time boil the roes, and cut them in square pieces, dip them in batter, and fry them brown in a pan of fat, with sippets cut three corner-ways; take your fish carefully out, and put them in your dish; skim the fat off the sauce, and squeeze in the juice of a lemon, pour it over the fish, and garnish with the roes, fried sippets, and horse-radish, and stick some of the sippets in the fish. You may, if you like it, skin, gut, and wash two small eels, flour them and fry them brown with butter, and stew them with the carp or tench.

Put one large carp, a brace of tench, and two eels in a dish, put the carp in the middle, a tench on each side, the eels round, and the garnish round them. This makes an elegant top-dish for a large or genteel company.

To stew Carp or Tench another Way.

Scale and gut the carp or tench, and wash them in a pint of ale or beer to save the blood, put some butter [Page] in a stew pan and melt it, put in a spoonful of flour, stir it till it is smooth, strain the ale or beer in, put in a pint of red wine, some cloves and mace, a little whole pepper, a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, three or four shallots, and an anchovy; season it with pepper and salt, cover it close, and stew it for fifteen minutes; put your fish in a stew-pan and strain the liquor over them, put them over a slow fire and stew them gently for one hour, giving them a gentle shake now and then, to keep the fish from sticking to the pan: in the mean time beat up the roe with the yolk of an egg, a little flour, a little pepper and salt, and a little lemon-peel shred fine, fry them in butter, about as big as a half-crown, of a fine brown, with some sippets cut corner-ways; put your fish carefully in the dish, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with the roe, sippets, and horse-radish. If you choose to have them white, use fish broth and white wine, instead of the ale and red wine; or if you should be in a hurry, boil the fish in spring water and salt for twenty minutes, drain them, put them in a dish, and strain the sauce over them; garnish with horse-radish and barberries.

To boil Perch.

Scale the fish and draw the guts out by the gills, but do not open the bellies, leave the roe in, and wash them clean; have a stew-pan of spring water boiling, put in a handful of salt, a bundle of sweet herbs, and a little horse-radish, with a gill of vinegar, put them in and boil them; (if a pound weight twenty minutes) take them out and drain them, put them in a dish, and garnish with parsley, with parsley sauce in a boat.

Perch in Water Souch [...]e.

Get ten or twelve middle-sized perch alive, scale, gut, and wash them clean, cut the fins close off, cut them fouur times across on one side to the bone, (mind [Page] they are all cut on the same side) put them in spring water one hour to crimp; take six Dutch parsley roots, cut the skin off, cut them about two inches long, and as thick as a straw, boil them in spring water till they are tender; have a stew-pan of spring water boiling, enough to cover them, put in a handful of salt, a gill of vinegar, the parsley-roots, and boil them six minutes; put in the fish, with the cut sides uppermost, boil them five minutes, then throw in a large handful of green parsley, well picked and washed clean, and boil them five minutes longer; take them very carefully out with a fish-slice, put them in a soup-dish, with liquor enough to nearly cover them, strain the parsley and roots in a sieve, and put them over the fish; garnish with lemon, with parsley sauce in a boat, and bread and butter cut thin in plates.

To fry Perch.

Scale, gut, and wash them clean, wipe them dry with a cloth, make a batter with flour, ale, and the yolk of an egg, and dip the fish in on both sides; have a pan of hogs-lard or beef-dripping boiling hot, fry them on both sides of a fine brown, put them on a coarse cloth before the fire to drain; fry a handful of parsley crisp, put the fish in a hot dish, and garnish with the crispt parsley, with anchovy sauce in a boat. You may dress roach, dace, and gudgeons the same way.

To fry Lampreys.

You must get them alive, bleed them, and save the blood, wash them in hot water and salt, take off the slime, gut them, and wipe them with a cloth; cut them in pieces, flour them, and fry them in fresh butter till they are nearly done; pour out the fat and put in a pint of white wine, give the pan a shake round, season it with cloves, mace, nutmeg, and a [Page] little whole pepper, some salt, a bundle of sweet herbs, and a bay leaf or two, put in a few capers, a piece of butter rolled in flour and the blood, give the pan a shake round often, cover them close, and stew them till they are tender; take them out with a fork, put them in a hot dish, strain the sauce into another stew-pan, boil it up quick, squeeze in half a lemon, and pour it over the fish; garnish with lemon.

To stew Lampreys.

Skin and gut the [...], wash them clean, turn them round on a skewer, [...] them in pieces, put them in a stew-pan, and season them with beaten clover and mace, a little lemon-peel shred fine, pepper and salt, put in a pint of gravy, half a pint of red wine, a bundle of sweet herbs, a whole onion, a spoonful of ketchup, a little anchovy liquor, and a piece of butter rolled in flour, cover them close, and stew them gently over a slow fire. give the pan a shake to keep them from sticking, stew them till they are tender, take out the sweet herbs and onion, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, put them in a hot dish, take out the skewers, and pour the sauce over them; garnish with lemon and beet-root.

To boil Eels.

Skin and gut the eels, and with a knife scrape the blood out of the inside▪ wash them clean, turn them round, and put a skewer through; have spring water boiling put in a little salt, boil them till they are tender, put them in a dish, and garnish with parsley, with parsley and butter in a boat.

To fry Eels.

Clean them as before, cut them in pieces, pepper, salt, and flour them, fry them brown in butter put them before the fire to drain, then put them in [Page] a hot dish; garnish with horse-radish, with anchovy sauce in a boat.

To broil Eels.

Clean them as before, wipe them with a cloth, turn them round, fasten them with a skewer, and rub some yolk of egg over them; have ready some bread crumbs, sweet herbs and parsley chopped fine, a little lemon-peel shred fine, pepper and salt mixed together, and sprinkled on them; have a clear fire, and broil them of a fine brown, but mind you do not burn them; put them in a hot dish, and garnish with horse-radish and parsley, with anchovy sauce and plain butter in boats.

To pitchcock Eels.

Take a large eel and scour it well with salt, wipe it clean with a cloth, slit it down the back, take out the bone and guts, cut off the head, and wipe the blood off, put the yolk of an egg on it and sprnikle bread-crumbs, sweet herbs, parsley and lemon-peel shred fine, a little nutmeg grated pepper and salt mixed together, all over it; cut it into four pieces, have a clear fire, and put them on the gridiron, skin side downwards, and when that side is done turn it on the other, and broil [...]t of a fine brown; put it in a hot dish, and garnish with horse-radish and parsley, (or if you put two boiled eels in the middle, and the pitch cocked all round, it makes a fine dish) with anchovy sauce and parsley and butter in boats.

To roast Eels and Lampreys.

These are fish roasted both in the same manner: Gut them and cut off their heads, scour them well with salt to take off the slime, and take the blood from the bones; take a small eel, cut the fish from the bone, mince it, the crumb of a halfpenny roll soaked in cream, a little lemon peel, sweet herbs, [Page] and parsley chopped fine, and a little pepper and salt; beat them in a mortar, mix them up with the yolks of two eggs, put it in their bellies and sew them up, turn them round and fasten them with skewers, rub the yolk of an egg over and strew crumbs of bread on them, put them in a tin oven, and roast them before the fire till they are of a fine brown: put them in a hot dish, and garnish with lemon and parsley; have a sauce made with half a pint of gravy, a gill of white wine, thicken it with flour and butter, and put in a spoonful of ketchup and a little anchovy liquor, boil it ten minutes, and then put it in boats. You may bake them, after having prepared them in the same manner as for roasting: put them in a dish with half a pint of water, flour and put some butter over them, bake them in a moderate oven; when they are done▪ put them in a dish, and s [...]t them before the fire to keep hot; take the gravy they were baked in, skim off the fat, strain it into a sauce-pan, with a glass of white wine, one of browning a spoonful of ketchup, a little lemon pickle, pepper and salt, with a little butter rolled in flour, boil it ten minutes, and strain it over the fish; garnish with lemon and beet root.

To stew Eels.

Skin, gut, and cut the heads off of four eels, take the blood out clean, wash them well, cut them into four pieces each, wipe them with a cloth, flour and fry them brown in butter, and put them on a sieve to drain; put a quarter of a pound of butter in a stew-pan, melt it, put in a spoonful of flour, stir it till it is smooth, pour in a pint of gravy, half a pint of red wine, a bundle of sweet herbs, four shallots chopped fine, a lemon-peel▪ two or three bay leaves, a spoonful of ketchup, a little anchovy liquor, season it with mace, cloves Cayan pepper and salt, and stew it till it is smooth; put your eels in a stew-pan, [Page] strain the liquor over them, put in half a pint of mushrooms, a dozen oysters, and a few truffles and morels well washed; cover them close, and stew them gently three quarters of an hour, skim them clean, squeeze in half a lemon, put them in a dish, with the sauce over; garnish with lemon and horse-radish.

Another way to stew Eels.

Skin, gut, and wash them clean, cut off the heads take out the blood, cut them in pieces, and put them in a stew-pan, with just water enough; for sauce, an onion stuck with cloves, a bundle of sweet herbs, three blades of mace, and some whole pepper tied in a muslin rag; cover them close, stew them gently, and put in a piece of butter rolled in flour; when they are tender take out the spice, onion, and herbs, chop some parsley fine and put in, with a little salt; stew them five minutes longer, and put them in a dish, with the sauce over them; garnish with lemon.

To stew Eels with Broth.

Clean your eels as before, put them into a stew-pan, cover them with water, a blade or two of mace, a crust of bread, and a little salt; stew them till they are tender, take out the bread, chop a little parsley and put in, and stew them five minutes longer; then put them in a soup-dish, with parsley and b [...]tter in a boat. This is excellent for consumptive or weak people.

To farce Eels with white Sauce.

Skin and clean your eels well, pick off all the fish from the bones, which you must leave whole to the head, cut it small, and beat it in a mortar, with half the quantity of crumbs of bread, season it with nutmeg and beaten pepper, an anchovy pounded, a [Page] good handful of parsley chopped fine, a few truffles boiled tender, and a few mushrooms chopped fine, beat it well together▪ mix it up with the yolks of three eggs, and put it over the bone in the shape of an eel; butter a pan and put it in, rub the yolk of an egg and sprinkle bread-crumbs over it, [...]ake it of a fine brown, and lay it carefully in the dish; have ready half a pint of cream, four ounces of fresh butter, stir it one way till it is thick, pour it over the eels, and garnish with lemon. Three good fixed eels make a handsome dish.

To make a Collar of Fish in Ragou.

Take a large eel, skin, gut, and wash it clean, take off the fish from the bones, beat it in a mortar, with an equal quantity of crumbs of bread, some sweet herbs, parsley, and a little lemon-peel chopped fine, season it with a little beaten mace, [...] pepper and salt, beat it all well together, put in the yolks of two eggs, and mix it up; take a turbot scaite, thornback, large soles, or any flat fish that will boil well, lay the fish on the dresser and take away all the bones and fins, cut it as it will roll even, rub the yolk of an egg over it, and cover it with the farce; then roll it up as tight as you can, open the eel skin and bind the collar with it, so that [...]t may be flat top and bottom to stand well in the [...] butter an earthen dish and set it upright in it, flour it all over, stick a piece of butter on the top and round the edge, so that it may run down the sides of the fish, put a quarter of a pint of water in the dish, and bake it well, but take care it is not broke▪ in the mean time take all the bones of the fish▪ set them on to boil in a quart of water, with a little cloves and mace, whole pepper, a bundle of sweet herbs, and an onion, cover it close, let it stew till it is reduced to a pint, and then strain it off; put a little butter into a stew-pan, melt it, and put in a little flour, stir it [Page] till it is smooth, by degrees pour the liquor in, stir it till it boils, then put in two spoonsful of ketchup, a gill of red wine, a gill of pickled mushrooms, some truffles and morels washed well, and a dozen oysters, season it with Cayan pepper and salt; save some of the farce, make it into small balls, and fry them brown in butter; when the fish is done put it in the dish, skim all the fat off the liquor in the pan, strain it into your sauce, squeeze in half a lemon, give it a boil up, pour it over the fish, and put the balls round; garnish with lemon and beet-root. You may roast it in a tin oven before the fire, and then you can baste it often with butter.

To boil Lobsters.

Tie the tails up fast to the bodies with a string, put on a pot of water, let it boil, put in a handful of salt, (boil a good sized lobster half an hour) take it out, wipe all the scum off, break the claws, and split it through the tail and back; put it in the dish, with a claw on each side, and melted butter in a boat.

To broil Lobsters.

Boil them as before, take the claws off, and split the body and tail in two, pepper and salt it, and [...]roil it claws and all; crack the claws, lay the body and tail inside uppermost, with the claws on each side; and plain butter in a boat.

To roast a Lobster.

Tie the tail to the body with packthread, and boil it in salt and water half an hour; untie it, put it in a dish before the fire, and baste it with butter till it is a fine froth, crack the claws, and split the tail open, put it in a hot dish, with plain butter in a boat.

To stew Lobsters.

Half boil two fins lobsters, break the claws and [Page] take out the meat as whole as you can, cut the tails in two and take out the meat, put them in a stew-pan, with half a pint of gravy, a gill of white wine, a little beaten mace, Cayan pepper and salt, a spoonful of ketchup, a little anchovy liquor, and a little butter rolled in flour, cover them, and stew them gently for twenty minutes, give the pan a sha [...] round often to keep them from sticking, squeeze in a little lemon, cut the chines in four; pepper, [...] and broil them; put the meat and sauce in a dish, and the chines round for garnish.

To ragou Lobsters.

Half boil two lobsters, break the claws and take out the meat, break the sh [...]ll of the tail and take it out whole, bruise the spawn, put a little butter in a stew-pan, melt it, and put in a little flour, stir it till it is smooth, then put in half a pint of gravy, a gill of white wine, and a spoonful of ketchup, season it with a little beaten mace, some Cayan pepper and salt pretty high, and boil it till it is smooth; cut off the ends of the tails that they may lay even in the dish▪ cut the rest into square pieces, and put it into the stew-pan with the spawn, cover it close and stew it gentle for twenty minutes, squeeze in a little lemon, put the tail in the middle of the dish, with the other meat round, and the sauce over it; garnish with fried sippets.

To butter Lobsters.

Take two lobsters and boil them in salt and water, break them to pieces, take out all the meat, cut it small, put it into a stew-pan, with as much melted butter as will moisten it, a little pepper and salt, and a little vinegar, keep it stirring till it is hot: cut the chines into four pieces, pepper, salt, and broil them, put the meat in a dish, with the chines round it.

A Dish of cold Lobsters.

Take three middle sized lobsters, and tie the tails [Page] with packthread to the bodies, boil there in salt and water for half an hour, take them on [...] [...] a little butter in a cloth, and wipe them to raise the colour; when cold, pull off the claws and [...] crack the claws, split the tails in two, and put the bodies upright in the dish, with the tails and [...] all round; garnish them all over with parsley.

To butter a Crab.

Boil the crab in salt and water pretty well, pull the claws off, break them, take out the meat, and [...] it small, pull the small claws off and keep them hot, [...]ke all the meat out of the shell and cut it small, put all the meat in a stew-pan, with melted butter to moisten it, a little pepper, salt, and vinegar, stir it till it is hot; cut the chine in two, pepper, salt, and broil it, make the shell hot in water, put the meat in, and put it in a dish, with the chine at each end; crack the little claws, and put them round for garnish.

To dress a Crab.

Boil the crab well in salt and water, and when cold break it up, mix the meat in the inside of the shell well together, break the large claws, take out the meat, and cut it fine, lay it over the shell-meat as handsome as you can in the shell, put it in the dish, split the chine in two, and put at each end, crack the small claws and put them round; mix some oil and vinegar, a little mustard, pepper, and salt, and put it over the meat in the shell; garnish with parsley.

To dish Crawfish.

Have a sauce-pan of spring water boiling, throw in a handful of salt, put them in, boil them a quarter of an hour, and then strain them off; when cold, put a handful of parsley in the dish, and place them all round as close as you can, with the tails outside, [Page] and put some at the top in what form you please; garnish all over with parsley.

To dish Prawns.

Have a sauce-pan of spring water boiling▪ put in a handful of salt, [...] [...]hem in and boil them quick for ten minutes, strain them off; and when cold, take a dish a size less than the one you intend to put them in, turn it upside down, place the prawns as close as you can, the backside down and the tails outward, put a handful of parsley in the middle, put the other dish over them and turn them over, then put a few at the top, and garnish with parsley.

To stew Scollops.

Open a dozen Scollops; and take them out as whole as you can, put them in a sauce-pan and set them, then strain the liquor from them through a sieve, wash them well in cold water, take off the beards and the black spot, put them into a stew-pan, drain the liquor from the settlings, and put to them a gill of white wine and a spoonful of ketchup, season them with a little beaten mace, pepper, and salt, put in a little butter mixed with flour, stew them gently till they are as thick as cream, squeeze in the juice of a Seville orange, put them in a hot dish, and garnish with fried sippets.

To fricassee Scollops.

Open a dozen scollops, and take them out as whole as you can, put them in a sauce-pan and set them, then strain the liquor from them through a sieve, wash them very clean in cold water, take off the beards and the black spot, put them in a stew pan, pour the liquor from the settlings and put in, season thme with a little beaten mace, Cayan pepper and salt, and put in a little butter mixed with flour, keep them stirring till thick and smooth, mix the yolk of an egg with half a pint of cream, grate in a little [Page] nutmeg, put it in, and keep shaking the pan till it is near boiling, but do not let it boil, for tear of curdling, squeeze in the juice of the Seville orange, and give it a shake round; then put them in a hot dish, and garnish with toasted sippets.

To stew Oysters.

Take a quart of large oysters, put them in a sauce-pan and set them, strain the liquor from them through a sieve, wash them, well and take off the beards; put then in a stew-pan, and drain the liquor from the settlings, put [...] the oysters a quarter of a pound of butter mixed with flour, a gill of white wine, and grate in a little nutmeg▪ with a gill of cream, keep them stirring till they are thick and smooth, put sippets at the bottom of the dish, pour the oysters in, and put sippets all round.

To ragou Oysters.

Take a quart of the largest oysters yon can get, put them into a sauce-pan and just set them, strain the liquor from them through a sieve, wash them well, and take off the beards; make a batter thus: take the yolks of two eggs, beat them up well, grate in a little nutmeg, a little lemon-peel, and a handful of parsley chopped fine, a spoonful of the juice of spinach, with a gill of cream of milk, and mix it up with flour to a thick batter; put a pound of butter into a stew-pan, melt it till it is done hissing, skim it, and have it clear; dip half the oysters in batter, roll them in bread crumbs, and fry them of a light brown; the other half dip in the batter only, fry them brown, and put them on a sieve to drain; boil a quart of chesnuts for half an hour, peel them, flour and fry them in butter, and put them on a sieve to drain; pour out all the butter, shake a little flour over the pan, and rub four ounces of butter all over the pan with a spoon till it is melted, then drain the oyster liquor from the settlings and put it in, with [Page] half a pint of white wine, season it with a little beaten mace and nutmeg, Cayan pepper, and salt, let it boil up, put in the chesnuts, and stew them five or six minutes; beat up the yolks of two eggs in half a pint of cream and put in, keep the pan shaking round till it is thick and smooth, then lay the oysters in a [...]or dish, and pour the chesnuts and sauce over them; garnish with lemon and beet-root.

S [...]olleped Oysters.

Take a quart of large oysters, put them in a sauce-pan and set them, strain the liquor from them through a sieve, wash them well, and take off the beards; get three scollop-shells, either real or tin ones, butter the bottoms, and sprinkle a few crumbs of bread on them, then put on the oysters, with a little pepper, grate a little nutmeg and put a piece of butter over them, pour the liquor off the settlings, and put as much in as the shell will hold, Put bread-crumbs over all, and put them on a gridiron to make the bottom part hot, then put them in a tin oven before the fire to brown, mind and turn them, that all the scollop is brown; put them in a dish, and send them to table hot.

To stew Muscles.

Take one hundred muscles, put them in a pail of water, and wash them well with a birch broom, then a put them in a pail of spring water and salt for two hours, wash them out, put them into a sauce-pan, and cover them close: stew [...] gently [...] they open, strain the liquor from them through a sieve, pick them out of the shells, and take out the beard, (if there is a crab under the tongue threw that muscle away) put them into a stew-pan, drain the liquor from the settlings and put half of it in, with a gill of white wine, a little grated nutmeg, and a piece of butter mixed with flour, stew them gently, and keep them stirring till they are thick and [Page] smooth; put them in a hot dish, with toasted sippets for garnish.

To stew Muscles another Way.

Stew the muscles as before, put them in a dish, sprinkle some bread-crumbs over them, and with a hot salan [...]nder or iron brown them over, or put them in a tin oven before the fire, and turn them round till they are of a fine brown.

To stew Cockles.

Put two hundred cockles into a pail of water, and wash them well with a birch broom▪ then put them into a pail of spring water and salt for two hours, wash them out and put them into a sauce-pan, cover them close, and stew them gently till they open, strain the liquor from them through a sieve, pick them out of the shells and wash them well, put them into a stew-pan, drain the liquor from the settlings, and put it to the cockles, with a glass of white wine, a little grated nutmeg, and a piece of butter mixed with flour, stew them gently till they are thick and smooth; put them in a hot dish, and garnish them with toasted sippets.

To stew Crawfish, Prawns, or Shrimps.

Take half a hundred crawfish, or one hundred prawns, or two quarts of shrimps, boil them in salt and water, pick out the tails and bruise the bodies, put the bodies on the fire with half a pint of water, a pint of white wine, a blade of mace, and a bit of horse-radish, and stew them a quarter of an hour; then strain the liquor off▪ wash out the stew-pan, and put the tails and liquor in, with a piece of butter mixed with flour, and a little grated nutmeg, stir them, and stew them till they are thick and smooth; cut a thin toast round a quartern loaf, toast it brown on both sides, cut it into six pieces, lay them close in a dish, and put the ingredients over; if it is crawfish, [Page] break some of the claws, take out the meat, and put them round the dish for garnish, and put the rest with the tails.

CHAP. IV.
SAUCES.

YOU should be very careful and particular in making your sauces and gravies, for if they are not good they often spoil whatever fish, &c. they are made for; and be sure to skim the fat off the gravy, and never oil the butter nor sauce: if it should happen that your sauce is oiled, skim off all the oil, and melt some butter smooth, and put it in its stead.

Gravy.

Take two or three rashers of bacon or ham, a pound of lean beef, one of veal, and one of mutton, put the bacon or ham at the bottom of your pan, cut the meat in thin pieces, and put over, with four onions, a carrot, two turneps, four heads of cellery, a little thyme well washed and cut small, a little cloves, mace, and all-spice, with a little water; cover it close, and sweat it over a [...] [...]ill it sticks, which you will know by the pan's hi [...]ing, but mind it does not burn; pour in three quarts of boiling water, skim it clean, season it with salt to your palate, and stew it gently till it is as good as you would have it, then strain it off for use. You may make it of beef, without veal or mutton, in the same manner.

Gravy for white Sauces.

Take two pounds of lean veal, cut it in small Pieces, [Page] put it in a stew-pan with two quarts of water, (when the scum rises skim it well) and put in an onion, a carrot, two or three blades of mace, and a little thyme▪ season it with salt, and stew it till it is half wasted, then strain it off for use.

Gravy for a Fowl when you have no Meat.

Take the neck, gizzard, and feet, put them in a pint of boiling water, with a crust of bread, a blade of mace, a little thyme, and some salt, stew them till the liquor is above half wasted; put in a glass of red wine, stew it five minutes longer, and strain it; if you like it thickened, put in a bit of butter mixed with flour, and boil it up till it is smooth.

As it often happens in country places, that gravy-beef is not always to be got: if you have any beef, veal, or mutton in the house, and in want of gravy, trim off the outsides of the meat, and proceed as in the first receipt▪ or when you have a large entertainment you may add more meat, according to the quantity you think you shall want; and if you choose to have it rich, cut an old fowl into pieces and put it in, or a pigeon or two.

Brown Gravy for Fish.

Take a pint of mild ale and half a pint of water, an onion cut small, a little lemon-peel, six cloves, two blades of mace, a little whole pepper, a spoonful of ketchup, and a spoonful of anchovy liquor; put two ounces of butter into a stew-pan and melt it, put in a spoonful of flour, stir it till it is a little brown, and by degrees pour in the above ingredients, stir it well round, and boil it twenty minutes; then strain it off for use.

White Gravy for Fish, Sauces, &c.

Take two pounds of any sort of fish you have, clean it well, cut it in pieces, put it in a sauce-pan, with two quarts of water, a little cloves and mace, a bundle [Page] of sweet herbs, a little lemon-peel, and a little salt, cover it close, and boil it till half is wasted; put a little butter into a stew-pan, melt it, put in a spoonful of flour, and stir it till it is smooth; then strain the gravy through a sieve to it, let it boil till it is smooth, then it will be fit for use.

Gravy for Venison.

When you have boned your venison, chop the bones to pieces, and put them in an earthen pan, with the skins and trimmings, cover them with water, and put in some pepper and salt; tie it over with coarse paper, and bake it two hours, then strain it off, skim off the fat, pour it from the settlings, and make it boiling hot, then put it into the pasti [...] if it is for roast venison, put a spoonful of browning in to colour it. This is better than any other [...] of gravy for venison, as it has its own natural flavour.

Sweet Sauces for Venison or Hares.

Put half a pound of currant jelly into a stew-pan, two or three knobs of sugar, and a gill [...] red wine, simmer it till the jelly is melted; or a pint of red wine with a quarter of a pound of sugar, simmered over a clear fire for five or six minutes; or half a pint of vinegar and a quarter of a pound of sugar simmered till it is a syrup.

Force-meat Balls for real or mock Turtle.

Take half a pound of lean veal, half a pound of beef-suet picked from the strings, a quarter of pound of fat bacon cut fine, put it into a mortar and beat it well; then put in half a pound of bread crumbs, some sweet herbs and parsley, six shallots chopped fine, season it with Cayan pepper and pepper and salt, beat it well together, put the yolks of two eggs, and mix it up; then put the white of an egg in a stew-pan, cover and beat it till it is of a fine froth, put it in and mix it well altogether, and with a little flour [Page] roll them out in balls, and boil them in a quart of boiling water.

When you make force-meat for Scotch or white collops, &c. leave out the Cayan pepper, and put very little shallot in; and for brown dishes you may fry them, if you like it best.

Egg Balls.

Boil eight eggs hard, and take out the yolks, put them in a mortar and bruise them, put in a little pepper and salt, the yolk of a raw egg, and a little flour, mix them all well together, and with a little flour in your hand roll them into little balls; have a sauce-pan of water boiling, put them in, boil them a minute or two, and strain them off.

Browning for made Dishes, &c.

Put a quarter of a pound of lump sugar into an earthen pipkin, with a little water to melt it, a bit of butter as big as a nutmeg, put it on a slow fire, and when the sugar begins to froth, keep it stirring with a skewer till it is quite black, then pour in a pint of hot water, and take it off the fire directly, or else it will boil over; then boil it gently for half an hour, with a gill of ketchup in it, strain it off, and when cold bottle it for use. This article the cook should never be without.

Lobster Sauce.

Take two hen lobsters alive if you can, if there is any spawn on the outside pick it off, boil the lobsters half an hour, take out all the meat and spawn, put all the spawn in a mortar with a little butter, and braise it fine, put the shells in a sauce-pan, with a pint and a half of water, a little cloves and mace, a few bits of horse-radish, and boil it half an hour; then strain it into a stew-pan, cut the meat in little pieces and put in, with the spawn, a pound of fresh butter, half a lemon, two spoonsful of anchovy liquor, [Page] one of ketchup, and some butter mixed with flour▪ boil it up gently till the butter is melted, and it is thick and smooth, take out the lemon and squeeze the juice in, stir it round, and put it into the sauce-boats.

Oyster Sauce for Fish.

Open a pint of large oysters and just scald them, strain the liquor from them, wash them clean, and beard them, put them into a stew-pan, and drain the liquor from the settlings to them, put in half a pound of butter, some butter mixed with flour, a quarter of a lemon, a spoonful of anchovy liquor, and one of ketchup, boil it up gently till the butter is melted, and the sauce thick and smooth, take out the lemon and squeeze the juice in. You may, if you like it, put a glass of mountain wine in.

Oyster Sauce for boiled Turkey, Fowls, or any white Meat.

Open a pint of large oysters and just scald them, strain the liquor through a sieve, wash and beard them, put them into a stew-pan, and pour the liquor from the settlings in, put in half a lemon, a piece of butter mixed with flour, a quarter of a pound of butter, and a gill of cream, boil it gently [...] it is thick and smooth; take out the lemon and [...] the juice in, stir it round, and then put it in your sauce-boats.

Shrimp Sauce.

Take half a pint of picked shrimps and wash them clean, put them in a stew-pan, with a gill of gravy or water, half a pound of butter, some butter mixed with flour, a spoonful of anchovy liquor, one of ketchup, and half a lemon, boil it till the butter is melted and it is thick and smooth; take out the lemon and squeeze the juice in, stir it about, and then put it in the sauce-boat.

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Anchovy Sauce.

Melt half a pound of butter smooth and thick, put two spoonsful of anchovy liquor in, and boil it up a minute or two, then put it into the sauce-boat. You may put in two spoonsful of ketchup, walnut pickle, lemon pickle, soy, or quin sauce, or any thing you fancy.

Muscle Sauce.

Wash half a hundred of muscles well, put them in a sauce-pan, cover them close, and stew them till they open, pick them out of the shells, take out the beards, wash them clean in cold water, put them into a stew-pan, strain the liquor through a sieve, and pour half to the muscles, put in half a pound of butter, and some butter mixed with flour, a spoonful of anchovy liquor, boil it gently till the butter is melted, and the sauce thick and smooth; then put it in the sauce-boat.

Cockle Sauce.

Wash a hundred cockles very clean, put them into a sauce-pan, cover them close, stew them gently till they open, strain the liquor through a sieve, wash them clean in cold water, and put them in a stew-pan, pour half the liquor in, with half a pound of butter, some butter mixed with flour, two spoonsful of anchovy liquor, and one of ketchup; boil it gently till the butter is melted, and the sauce thick and smooth, then put it in the sauce-boat.

Melted Butter.

Put a pound of butter cut in pieces into a sauce-pan, with a quarter of a pint of water, and dust in a little flour, shake it well round put it on a clear fire, and shake it round often till it is melted and just boils up.

You may melt it without flour and water: cut the [Page] butter into small pieces, and keep it shaking over a clear fire till it is melted.

White Cellery Sauce.

Take the white part of a dozen heads of cellery, cut it about an inch long, wash it clean, and boil it in four quarts of water till it is tender: in the mean time get a gill of white gravy, half a pint of cream, and a little butter rolled in flour; boil it up till it is thick and smooth, grate in a little nutmeg, strain the cellery in a sieve, and put it in with a little salt, boil it up a minute, and then put it over a boiled turkey, fowls, or any thing else you want it for, or in boats.

Brown Cellery Sauce.

Cut, wash, and boil the cellery as before, put about two ounces of butter into a stew-pan▪ melt it, and put in a small spoonful of flour, stir it till it is smooth, and put in a pint of gravy a glass of white wine, and boil it till it is smooth grate in a little nutmeg, and season it with pepper and salt▪ strain off the cellery and put stew it for five minutes▪ and then it will be ready in, for use.

Onion Sauce for boiled Rabbits, Ducks, Geese, &c.

Take two dozen of large onions, peel the skins off, and take off the first coat, slit them almost through, and throw them into cold water, boil them in plenty of water till they are very tender, changing the water twice, strain them in a cullender, and squeeze out a little of the water, then with a wooden spoon rub them through the cullender, put them into a stew-pan, with a gill of cream, a quarter of a pound of butter, and dust in a little flour, with a little salt; boil them up gently till the butter is melted, and keep stirring it all the time, or else it will burn.

Spanish Onion Sauce.

Peel the skins and take off the first coat of six or [Page] eight large Spanish onions▪ slit them almost through▪ and boil them in a gallon of water (change the water once) till they are very tender, strain them in a sieve, and chop them fine on a board, put them into a stew-pan, with a gill of cream a quarter of a pound of butter, a little flour and salt, boil them up gently till the butter is melted, but keep stirring it all the time▪ or it will burn. This is a proper sauce for roast turkies, wild fowl▪ mutton, &c.

N.B. If you have no Spanish onions, you may use large English ones in [...]er room.

Gallentine Sauce.

Cut the crumb of a penny loaf in thin slices, put it into a stew-pan, with half a pint of water and a stick of cinnamon▪ boil it gently till the bread is soft, beat it up with a spoon, put in half a pint of red wine▪ a little butter▪ and a dozen knobs of sugar, boil it genty till it is smooth, take out the cinnamon, and it will be fit for use.

Bread Sauce.

Take the crumb of a penny loaf and rub it through a cullender, put it into a stew-pan, with a little water, a pint of milk, a whole onion, a spoonful of whole white pepper, a little butter and salt, boil it gently, and keep it stirring often till it is smooth take out the onion, and then beat it up well with a spoon, make it hot, and put it into a sauce-boat.

Sauces for a Pig.

When you have cut up the pig, take out the brains and chop them▪ put them into a stew-pan, with half a pint of white broth or gravy, the seasoning in the inside, and the gravy that comes from the pig, put a little flour and butter in to thicken it, and as quick as you can give it a boil up, and put it in the dish under the pig.

[Page] Take the crumb of a penny loaf and rub it through a cullender, put it into a stew-pan with a pint of milk, wash a quarter of a pound of currants well, dry them in a cloth and pick them, put them in, boil it gently, keep it stirring till it is smooth, and put it in a sauce-boat.

Take the crumb of a penny loaf, cut it in thin slices, put it in a stew-pan with a pint of milk, boil it, keeping it stirring and beat up till it is smooth; cut three or four heads of pickled samphir and put in, give it a boil up, and put it in a sauce-boat.

Green Sauce for Green Geese, Ducklings, &c.

Take half a pint of veal broth▪ and thicken it with a little flour and butter, put in half a dozen knobs of sugar, and boil it up▪ then put in a gill of spinach juice, make it hot, but do not let it boil; then squeeze in the juice of a Seville orange, but take care the seeds do not fall in, stir it round, and put it in a sauce-boat.

Sorrel Sauce.

Pick a large quantity of garden sorrel, and wash it very clean, boil it in a sauce-pan with a little water till tender, strain it off, squeeze the water out between two plates, chop it fine on a board, put it in a stew-pan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, a little flour, half a pint of gravy, and some pepper and salt, stir it till the butter is melted then its fit for use.

Fennel Sauce.

Pick and wash a handful of fennel, have a sauce-pan of water boiling, put it in, and boil it quick and green, chop it small, put it in a sauce-boat, pour melted butter in, and stir it well up.

Parsley Sauce.

Pick and wash a handful of parsley, have a sauce-pan [Page] of water boiling, put it in, and boil it quick and green; chop it on a board, put it in a sauce-boat, pour melted butter over it, and stir it well up.

Egg Sauce.

Boil three eggs hard, take off the shells, and chop them on a board, but not too fine, put them in a sauce-boat or bason, pour in half a pound of melted butter, and stir it up.

Apple Sauce.

Pare and core six large apples, cut them in quarters, put them in a stew-pan, with a little water to keep them from burning, a bit of cinnamon and lemon-peel, cover them close, and stew them gently till tender; take out the cinnamon and lemon-peel, bruise them well with a wooden spoon, put in some moist sugar and a little butter, and stir it well till the butter is melted.

Mint Sauce.

Pick and wash a handful of green mint very clean▪ chop it fine, mix some sugar and vinegar in a boat, put in the mint, and stir it up.

Caper Sauce.

Chop a gill of capers, but not fine, put them in a sauce-boat with a little of the liquor, pour in hot melted butter, and stir them up.

Poveroy Sauce.

Peel and chop six shallots fine, put them in a sauce-pan, with half a pint of gravy, a spoonful of vinegar, a little pepper and salt, boil it up, and then▪ put it in the sauce-boat.

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Carrier Sauce.

Slice two large onions very thin, put them in spring water for one hour, strain them off, and put them in a plate, sprinkle a little pepper and salt over them, mix some oil and vinegar and pour over all.

Gooseberry Sauce.

Coddle half a pint of gooseberries, strain them off, and put them in a boat, with some fine powder sugar, pour some hot melted butter in, and stir them up gently.

White Sauce for boiled Fowls or Chickens.

Take half a pint of veal gravy, put it in a stew-pan, with a little mace, white pepper, and salt, boil it five minutes, skim it clean from fat, mix a little flour with half a pint of cream and put in, boil it up five minutes, and strain it over your fowls, or into a sauce-boat.

Mock Oyster Sauce.

Take half a pint of water, two blades of mace, an anchovy▪ a little lemon-peel, and a few white pepper corns▪ boil it gently for ten minutes, strain it off, put it in a stew-pan, with a little flour and butter and half a pint of cream, boil it till it is thick and smooth, and pour it over your fowls or turkey.

White Mushroom Sauce.

Peel and cut off the roots of a quart of fresh mushrooms, wash them clean and cut them in two, put them into a stew-pan, with a quarter of a pint of water, a piece of lemon-peel▪ a little beaten mace and nutmeg, cover them close, and stew them very gentl [...] for half an hour; (but mind they do not [...] burn, beat up the yolks of two eggs with half a pint of cream, if there is much liquor put in a [Page] little flour and butter, and a little salt, stir them till they are smooth, then put in the eggs and cream, keep them stirring till they just boil, squeeze in a little lemon-juice, and then put them over the fowls or in sauce-boats. Observe to take our the lemon-peel.

Brown Mushroom Sauce.

Treat the mushrooms as before, put them in a stew-pan, with half a pint of brown gravy, a little lemon-peel, some pepper and salt to your palate, stew them gently for half an hour (if the gravy is wasted too much put in some more▪ with a little butter mixed with flour) keep them stirring till they are thick and smooth, squeeze in [...] little lemon-juice, take out the lemon-peel, and pour them over roast or broiled fowls.

Pickled Mushroom Sauce.

Put half a pint of brown gravy into a stew-pan, a spoonful of ketchup, a little pepper and salt, a piece of butter mixed with flour, a gill of pickled mushrooms, and a little of the pickle, keep it stirring till it is thick and smooth, then pour it over roast or broiled fowls.

Sauce for roast Rabbits.

Boil the livers with some parsley for a quarter of an hour, chop them separate, put them together in a boat, pour hot melted butter in, and stir it well up. You may either put it under the rabbits, or send it in a boat.

White Sauce for a Hare.

Put a pint of cream and half a pound of butter into a stew-pan, keep it stirring till the butter is melted and the sauce thick, then put the sauce in the dish, and the hare upon it.

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Lemon Sauce for boiled Fowls.

Pare off the rind of a lemon, cut it in slices, take out the kernels, and cut it in square bits, boil the liver of a chicken or fowl and chop it fine, put the lemon and liver together in a boat, pour hot melted butter in, and stir it up.

Another Sauce for boiled Fowls.

Take the liver of the fowl, bruise it with a little of the liquor, cut a little lemon-peel fine, and mix it by degrees with melted butter, give it a boil, and pour it in the dish.

Sauce Robart.

Chop two large onions very fine, put a little butter in a stew-pan, and fry them a little, put in a little flour and half a pint of good gravy, stir it about, season it with pepper and salt, stew it for five minutes, then put in a spoonful of mustard.

Fin Sauce.

Take one onion, some parsley, fresh mushrooms, and some capers, chop them fine, put a little butter in a stew-pan, put the things in, and sweat them a little over a slow fire; then put in half a pint of gravy, a little butter mixed with flour, and stew it till it is thick and smooth, skim it, season it with pepper and salt, and squeeze in a little lemon-juice.

CHAP. V.
BOILING.

Proper Rules to be observed in Boiling.

AS neatness and cleanliness is requisite in a kitchen, as well as in a cook's person as the utensils [Page] it is proper that the cook should see that all the pots, sauce-pans, covers, and every other article, is kept clean from grease and sand, and well tinned. In boiling all kinds of meat and poultry much care and nicety is required, particularly in veal, lamb, and poultry; it is often a great fault in putting too little water in the pot, as that often makes the things look black: be sure always to put in plenty of soft water, make it boil first and skim it well, for veal, lamb, or poultry, before you put it in▪ As for large joints of beef, mutton, or pork, it is best to put the meat in the water cold, except in the hot summer months, when you cannot make beef salt enough before it will stink; then it is best to put it in the water boiling, to strike the salt in. Before you boil any meat or poultry prepare them in the following manner: singe the poultry, and put them in cold water for one hour; wash the beef, mutton, or pork clean, skewer the udder or fat of a buttock of beef to the lean, and tie it with a fillet or packthread tight; for veal, lamb, or poultry, take some flour in your hand and rub it all over, rub and wash them well, for the flour will take off all the dirt▪ put them into the water boiling, with a piece of stale white bread, as the bread will draw all the scum up, and make them look whiter than flour or milk put into the water, or over the meat and poultry▪ Be sure to boil every thing gently, for if you boil it fast it makes the outside hard before the inside is warm.

Beef and mutton should be rather under done, and allow one hour for every four pounds▪ veal▪ pork, and lamb should be thoroughly done▪ or else it is apt to surfeit▪ pork in particular: a knuckle of veal of eight pounds will take two hours boiling▪ a leg of twelve pounds three hours an a half▪ a leg of pork of twelve pounds four hours, a leg of house-lamb of four pounds one hour and a quarter, a leg of grass-lamb of six pounds one hour and three quarters, and so on in proportion. Be sure to skim the fat and scum off as it rises, and never leave your meat or [Page] poultry in the pot after it is done, as that makes it soddened, and takes out all the juices. If you should be delayed in sending your dinner or supper up in time, take the things out of the water, put them in a dish, cover them close with a cloth, and put the dish over the hot water▪ and when you want them dip them in the hot water a moment bfore you send them away. This method I have found to be the best in the course of upwards of twenty years practice.

To boil a Haunch or Neck of Venison▪

As this is very seldom done, it is proper to give directions for it in case it should be wanted; take a haunch or neck of venison fresh killed and salt it well, turn it, and salt it every day for a week, then put it into water for one hour and wash it clean out, put it into cold water, boil it slowly, skim it very clean, and allow one hour for every four pounds the haunch weighs; boil a cauliflower and pull it into sprigs, boil some white cabbage, mash it with butter and cream, and some turneps the same way; lay a sprig of cauliflower, next cabbage, and next turneps, till you have laid them all round the dish; put in the haunch or neck, garnish the edge of the dish to your fancy with beet-root, and send melted butter and sweet sauce in boats.

N.B. The neck will only take one hour and a half boiling. The haunch or neck eats well hashed the next day.

Hams.

When you have any very old Westphalia or English hams they require a great deal of socking; the best method is, to put them i [...] water over-night, take them out in the morning, and hang them up all day; put them in water again at night, and so proceed for a week, which will make them mellow and fine; if they are not very old two days and two nights [Page] soaking in soft water, changing the water every night and morning, will be sufficient; (a green ham requires no soaking) cut the dirt off the under side, scrape the rind clean, cut the knuckle off at the joint, and wash the ham clean; put it into the copper when the water is warm, as that will set the colour (for if you put it in when the water is cold, it draws all the colour out) when it bails skim it well, and boil it as gently as you can▪ so the water does but just boil it is sufficient; (a ham of twenty pounds will take five hours, and bigger or less in proportion) when done, take it up and pull of the rind, if it is of a fine red colour put it in the dish, if it is rather pale sift some raspings of bread over it, and put it to the fire till it is brown; or rub it over with the yolk of an egg, and strew bread-crumbs over it, put it to the fire, and turn it round till it is brown all over; garnish with carrots.

N.B. If you choose you may put a handful of leather shavings and two handsful of juniper berries in the copper with your ham, to give it a high flavour.

Tongues.

If your tongue is a dry one, soak it in water all night; but if a pickled one, only wash it well, and put it in cold water; (the dry one will take three hours boiling, the pickled one two hours and a half) when it is done peel the skin and cut the outside of the root off, put it in a dish, and garnish with carrots and sprigs of greens, or whole turneps boiled.

Beef.

A buttock, itch-bone, rump, brisket, thick or thin flank, should be eight or ten days in salt, then wash it well out in clean water, put it in the water cold, and boil it as directed in the rules▪ when it is done take it up, and with a paste-brush wash it clean, put it in the dish, and garnish with carrots and sprigs of greens, with greens, carrots, and turneps in separate dishes.

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Mutton.

Cut off the s [...]ank end and flap of a leg or shoulder of mutton joint the neck, put it in water for one hour, wash i [...] clean out, and put it into the water cold; when it boils [...] it well, put in a piece of stale white bread and boil it gently; (a leg of mutton of twelve pounds will take three hours, a shoulder of eight pounds two hours, and a neck of six pounds one hour and a half) when done take it out, wash it well with a paste-brush, and garnish with capers, carrots, turneps, or sprigs of greens, with greens and mashed turneps in separate dishes, caper sauce and plain butter in boats; or you may smother the shoulder with onion sauce.

Veal.

Break the bone of a knuckle or leg of veal in two places, put it into cold water, and with a handful of flour wash it well, put it into the water boiling, skim it well, put in a piece of stale white bread, and boil it as directed in the rules; boil a piece of bacon in another pot till tender, when it is done take the veal up, wash it with a paste-brush, and garnish it with sprigs of greens or cauliflowers; take off the rind of the bacon, and hold it before the fire till it is brown, put it in a dish, and garnish it with sprigs of greens or carrots, with greens in a dish, parsley sauce and plain butter in boats.

Breast of Veal.

Joint it, and take off the skin of the broad [...]nd, put it in water for one hour▪ wash it well, and put it in boiling water, (if a small one, one hour will boil it; if a large one, an hour and an half) skim it well, and when done take it up, put it in a hot dish, and put white, oyster, or cellery sauce over it; garnish with lemon. The chump end of a loin cats well done the same way.

Calves Head.

Chop the head in two, take out the brains, trim [Page] it clean, and lay it in plenty of water for two hours▪ [...]o soak out all the blood, wash it clean, dredge it with flour, put it into the water boiling, put a piece of stale white bread in, and boil it one hour and a half: in the mean time wash the brains and take off the skins, boil them in a sauce-pan with sage leaves and parsley; when done, chop them fine, put them in a sauce-pan, with a little butter, pepper, and salt, stir them till the butter is melted; take up the head, cut out the tongue, peel it, and slit it in two, put the brains in a dish, the tongue on each side, and the head in another dish.

Lamb.

Cut off the shank end and flap of a leg of lamb, give it a cut in the first joint and turn i [...] to make it look as round as you can, put it into cold water for one hour, and with a handful of flour wash it well; put it into the water boiling, skim it well, put in a piece of stale white bread, and boil it gently as directed in the rules; when done take it up, and with a paste-brush wash it well, put it in a dish, and garnish with carrots and spinach; with spinach in a dish, and plain butter in a boat. If you fry the loin, fry it as directed in the chapter for frying; put a small dish within the other▪ put the leg in, and the loin all round; garnish with spinach and fried parsley.

Pork.

Break the shank of a leg of pork▪ and put it in water for one hour, wash it well and scrape the rind clean, put it into cold water, and as the scum rises skim it well, boil it gently as before directed; (if it is a belly-piece boil it till the rind is tender) when done take it up, wash it with a paste-brush, put it in a dish, and garnish with sprigs of greens, with peas-pudding, turneps, and greens in separate dishes, and plain butter in a boat.

Turkies.

Having trussed your turkey as for boiling, make [Page] a stuffing as follows: take a score of oysters and blanch them, w [...]sh them clean in cold water, take off the beards, and chop them fine, shred a little lemon-peel and parsley, wi [...]h a quarter of a pound of butter, the yolks of three eggs, and a spoonful of cream, season it with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg▪ mix it up in a light force-meat, stuff the craw with it, turn the skin over it, and skewer it on the back, singe it and put it into water for one hour, and with a handful of flour wash it well▪ put it into a large pot of boiling water, skim it clean, put in a piece of stale white bread, and boil it gently; (if a middle size one hour, a small one three quarters of an hour, a very large one an hour and a half) when done take it up, wash it clean with a paste-brush, and put it in a dish, with oyster, cellery, or white sauce over it; garnish with lemon and beet-root, with oyster and cellery sauce in boats.

Fowls.

Truss your fowls for boiling, singe and put them in cold water for one hour, and with a handful of flour wash them well; put them into the water boiling, put in a piece of stale white bread, skim them well, and boil them half an hour, if a middling size, if large ones three quarters of an hour; when done take them up, wash them clean with a paste-brush▪ put them in a dish, and garnish with lemon and boiled parsley, with oyster▪ cellery, or white sauce over them, oyster-sauce and parsley and butter in boats.

Chickens.

Truss your chickens for boiling singe them, and put them in cold water for one hour▪ with a handful of flour▪ wash them well▪ put them into the water boiling with a piece of stale bread; boil them, if small▪ fifteen minutes; if bigger▪ twenty or twenty-five minutes; when done take them up, wash them with a paste-brush, put them in a dish, and garnish [Page] with lemon and parsley; put parsley and butter or white sauce over the breasts, with parsley and butter and oyster-sauce in boats.

Chickens with Bacon and Cellery.

Boil two chickens, and a piece of ham or bacon by itself, boil the white part of two bunches of cellery tender, cut it about two inches long, and put it into a stew-pan, with half a pint of cream, a piece of butter mixed with flour, and some pepper and salt; set it on the fire, keep it shaking till it is thick and smooth▪ lay the chickens in the dish, and pour the sauce over them; cut your ham or bacon in thin slices and garnish them with it all round.

N.B. If you have any cold ham in the house, cut some thin slices and broil them; it answers the purpose as well.

Chickens and Tongues.

Salt six hogs tongues for one week in the same pickle with the neats tongues or hams; boil six small chickens, boil the tongues by themselves and peel the skins off, boil a cauliflower white, and a good deal of spinach picked and washed clean in several waters; boil it green, and squeeze it between two pewter dishes very dry; put the cauliflower upright in the middle of the dish, lay the chickens close round, the tongues round the chickens, with the roots outwards, and put the spinach between the tongues; garnish with toasted bacon, and lay a piece on each of the tongues.

This is an excellent dish for a large company.

Goose.

Pick your goose clean, singe it, and salt it well for four or five days; then wash it clean, truss it, put it in boiling water, and boil it one hour; when done take it up, and put it in a dish, with onion-sauce over it; boil some white-heart cabbages very tender, chop them up and put them in a sauce pan, with a little cream, butter, pepper and salt, stir it round [Page] till it is quite hot, put it in a dish, and send it up to table with the goose.

Ducks.

Scald your ducks, draw them, and put them into warm milk and water till you want them; then truss them, put them into the water boiling, boil them twenty minutes▪ and skim them well; then take them up, put them in the dish, pour onion-sauce over them, and garnish with lemon.

Ducks boiled the French Way.

Scald and draw two ducks, lard them on the breast, and half roast them; then put them in an earthen pipkin, with half a pint of red wine, a pint of good gravy, about twenty chesnuts first roasted and peeled, half a pint of large oysters blanched and bearded, an onion, two or three blades of garlick chopped fine, and a little thyme shred; season it with pepper, salt, beaten mace, a little ginger beat fine, and the crust of a French roll grated, cover them close, and stew them gently over a slow fire for half an hour: when done, put them in a dish, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with lemon.

Pigeons.

Scald, draw, and truss four pigeons, wash them in several waters, dredge them with flour, put them into boiling water, and boil them fifteen minutes; then take them up, put them in a hot dish, and pour parsley and butter over them; lay round them sprigs of brocoli boiled, and send parsley and butter and plain butter in boats.

Rabbits.

Truss the rabbits and put them in cold water for two hours, changing the water two or three times; put them into boiling water, with a piece of stale bread, skim them well, and boil them, if a large one [Page] three quarters of an hour; then take them up and drain them, put them into a hot dish, pull the jaw-bones out, stick them in the eyes, and smother them with onion-sauce, with a sprig of myrtle in their mouths.

Pheasants.

Pick and truss your pheasants, singe them, lay them in cold water, wash them out, put them in a large pot of boiling soft water, skim them clean, and boil them half an hour: when done put them in a dish, put white cellery sauce over them, and garnish with lemon.

Partridges.

Pick and [...]rass three partridges, wash them clean, put them in plenty of boiling water, and boil them quick for fifteen minutes: for sauce, take half a pint of cream and a quarter of a pound of butter, put it over the fire, and stir it one way till it is thick and smooth: put the partridges in the dish, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with lemon.

Put white cellery sauce over them, or this sauce: take the livers and bruise them fine, chop a little parsley fine, melt a little butter smooth, and then add the livers and parsley; give it a boil up, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and pour it over the birds. Or this sauce: take half a pint of cream, the yolk of an egg beat fine, a piece of butter as big as a walnut mixed with flour, a little beaten mace and nutmeg, and a spoonful of white wine▪ stir it one way till it is thick and smooth, then pour it over the birds; or white mushroom sauce.

Woodcocks or Snipes.

Boil them in beef gravy made thus; take a pound of lean beef cut into little pieces, put it into two quarts of water▪ with an onion, a bundle of sweet herbs, two blades of mace, six cloves, and some whole pepper; cover it close and boil it till it is half wasted, then strain it off, put it into a sauce-pan, and [Page] season it with salt▪ take the woodcocks or snipes and draw the trails out, (take care of the trails) put put them into the gravy, cover them close, and boil them ten minutes: in the mean time take the trails and livers, chop them fine, put them into a stew-pan, with a little of the gravy the snipes or woodcocks are boiling in, and stew them, with a little beaten mace and a gill of red wine; take the crumb of a stale roll, rub it through a cullender, fry it with butter of a light brown, and put it before the fire to keep hot: when your snipes are done, take half a pint of the gravy they are boiled in and put it to the trails, with a little butter mixed with flour▪ set it on the fire and keep it shaking till the butter is melted, but do no stir it with a spoon, then put the [...] of bread in, and shake it round; take up the birds, put them in a hot dish, and pour the sauce over them; garnish with lemon.

N.B. You may dress wild fowls or plovers the same way.

Plovers.

Draw them clean and wash them, put them in boiling water and boil them ten minutes when done take them up, and put them in a hot [...] with white cellery or mushroom sauce over them, and garnish with lemon.

CHAP. VI.
ROASTING.

Proper Rules to be observed in Roasting.

IN the first place, be careful that your spits and dripping-pan are kept clean, and always put [Page] some dripping or butter into the dripping-pan, before you lay down your meat or poultry to the fire, to have it melted ready to baste with; singe your poultry with white paper, baste them with butter, dredge on some flour, and sprinkle salt on as soon as you put them to the fire; and the same with all sorts of meat, be sure to baste it well as soon as you lay it down, and sprinkle it with salt▪ your fire should be regulated according to the thing to be dressed, if it is very little or thin you should have a brisk fire, that you may roast it quick and nice▪ if it is for large joints, be sure to lay on a good [...], and always have it clear at the bottom. When your joint is half done▪ remove the dripping-pan and spit from the fire▪ [...]nd stir it up to make it burn clear and brisk; and [...]ver put your meat too close to the fire till it is nearly done; for by being to near it often scorches the outside before it is warm within. When it is nearly done the smoke will draw towards the fire; then take the paper off, baste it with butter, sprinkle it with salt, and dredge some flour on, to make it of a fine froth. Pigs and geese should be roasted before a brisk fire, but not too near, and turned quick; hares and rabbits require time and care, and be sure you mind that both ends are done enough: when half roasted cut the skin at the neck-end, to let out the blood, which will prevent them from looking bloody when they are cut up. Wild fowls should have a clear brisk fire, and roasted till they are of a light brown, but not too much, nor till the gravy runs out, as that deprives them of their fine flavour; if you see the gravy begin to run take them up directly. Turkies and tame fowls require more roasting, as they are longer in getting hot through; they should be often basted, in order to keep up a strong froth, as it makes them of a fine colour and rise the better; and it is the best method to keep all sorts of meat well basted, particularly venison, lamb or veal, and also hares; beef and mutton is fatter and does not require so much basting. Be sure to have a fine froth on every thing before you take it from the fire.

[Page] In roasting of veal, you must be careful to roast it of a fine brown; if a large joint, a very good fire; i [...] a small joint▪ a brisk fire; and if a fillet, loin, or the best end of a neck, be sure to paper the fat, that you may lose as little of it as possible; lay it at a distance from the fire till it is soaked, then put it nearer the fire, and when you lay it down baste it well with butter, and often, all the time it is roasting; the breast must be roasted with the caul on till it is nearly enough; boil the sweetbread for ten minutes, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, strew crumbs of bread on it, and skewer it on the breast; when it is nearly done take off the paper or caul, baste and froth it up, put it in a hot dish▪ and put a little gravy and butter mixed in the dish; garnish with lemon and beet-root, and put the sweetbread on the breast.

Beef.

Beef should be kept some time before it is dressed according to the heat or coldness of the weather; wipe it very clean with a dry cloth, and take care you do not leave any damp place on it, hang it where the fresh air can come to it, but never salt it, as it makes it hard; and when you have spitted it, paper the top to keep the fat from melting away, put it to the fire, baste it well all the time it is roasting, and sprinkle it with salt; (a surloin of beef of thirty pounds will take three hours and a half before a good fire) when it is nearly done take off the paper▪ baste it, sprinkle on some salt, and dredge it well with flour till it is of a fine froth; then take it up, put it in a hot dish, and garnish with horse-radish.

Mutton.

In roasting of mutton, the loin, the chine, and the saddle should have the skin raised and skewered on; when it is nearly done take off the skin, and put it close to the fire to brown, then baste it, sprinkle on a handful of salt, and dredge some flour on to froth [Page] it up; the leg or shoulder wants no paper, except you put a little over the fat part of the leg.

Lamb.

When you roast a fore quarter: after you have spitted it put whiter paper over it, particularly the fat part of the leg▪ and baste it well all the time it is roasting; when it is nearly done take off the paper, and froth it up. In roasting the ribs, they should be done very quick, as they are thin, and of a light brown; when done, put it into a hot dish, and garnish with crosses or small sallad, with mint sauce in a boat.

Fillet of Veal.

Take a fine fillet of veal, take out the bone, and make the following stuffing: rub the crumb of a penny loaf through a cullender, chop a little beef-suet fine, a little parsley, sweet herbs, and lemon-peel shred fine, seasoned with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg; mix it all up with two eggs, and stuff it under the fat and where the bone came out of, truss it close and run the spit as nearly through the middle as you can, rub it over with butter, tie a paper over it, lay it down before a good fire to roast, and baste it well; (a fillet of twelve pounds will take three hours, bigger or less in proportion) when it is nearly done take off the paper, sprinkle it with salt, then baste it, and let it be of a fine brown; then baste it with butter and dredge it with flour, to make it of a fine froth; take it up, put it in a hot dish, mix some melted butter and gravy, and pour it under; garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Loin of Veal.

Take a fine fat loin of veal, mind it is well chopped, paper it all round to keep in the fat, spit it and lay it down to a good fire, but not too near, and baste it well; (it will take as long as a fillet) when [Page] it is nearly done take off the paper, sprinkle it with salt, baste it, and let it be of a fine brown; then paste it with a little butter and dredge it with flour till it is of a fine froth; take it up, put it in a hot dish, with gravy and butter under it; toast a thin toast, cut it three-corner-ways, and put round it; garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Pork.

Pork must be well roasted, or it is apt to surfeit: when you roast a loin, take a sharp pointed knife and score it just through the skin, and about half an inch asunder, to make the crackling eat the better; when you roast a chine, with your knife score it, one score down the middle first, and then on each side; and proceed with a leg thus; score it all round, take a little sage and onion, wash and chop it fine, and mix it with pepper and salt, stuff it at the knuckle, cut a hole under the flap and put some in, and skewer it up; when you put it to the fire baste it well and roast it crisp, as most people like the rind crisp, which is called crackling; put it into a hot dish, and a little gravy under it, with apple-sauce in a boat. The spring or hand of pork, if very young and roasted like a pig▪ eats very well; or take the belly-piece, and sprinkle sage and onion with pepper and salt over it, roll it round, tie it with a string▪ and roast it two hours▪ it eats very well▪ the sparerib should be basted with butter, sprinkle some salt on it▪ chop some sage very fine and sprinkle on it as it is roasting, with gravy in the dish, and apple-sauce in boats. Sweetbone is roasted the same way.

Tongue and Udder.

Salt the udder a week, then wash it clean, and boil it and the tongue till they are tender; peel the tongue and stick three or four dozen of cloves in it, the udder the same, and rub the yolk of an egg over them▪ sprinkle them with bread-crumbs, put them in a dish before the fire, baste them with butter, and [Page] roast them till they are brown all over; then put them into a hot dish, with a little good gravy under them, and garnish with lemon and beet-root, with gallintine sauce and currant jelly in boats.

Venison.

Cut the knuckle off the haunch and spit it, rub the fat part with butter, and sprinkle it with salt, put a large sheet of paper all over it, and a thick sheet of common paste over the fat part, then three sheets of paper over the paste▪ and tie it across about two inches apart with packthread to keep it on; as soon as you put it down baste it well, and keep basting it all the time it is roasting: be sure to have a large fire before you put it down to roast; (a large haunch will take four hours roasting) when done take off the paper and paste, baste it with butter, dredge it with flour, and let it be of a very light brown; take it up, put it into a hot dish, and garnish with boiled French beans, with gravy and venison sauces in boats, and French beans in a dish. When you roast a neck put three skewers through, and put the spit between the skewers and bones, paper and paste it the same as a haunch, and one hour and a half will roast it; send it up with the same sauce▪ &c.

Haunch of Mutton.

Take a hind-quarter of fat mutton, and cut the leg with part of the loin in the shape of a haunch of venison (if it is cold weather hang it up for a fortnight) then lay it in a pan with the back side downwards, pour a bottle of red wine over it, and let it lay twenty-four hours, turn it two or three times, and pour the wine over it with a spoon every time; then spit it and paper it over, baste it all the time it is roasting▪ before a quick fire▪ with the same liquor and butter, and two hours will roast it; take off the paper, baste it with butter, and dredge a little flour on to froth it; take it up, put it into a hot dish, and garnish with beet-root, with gravy and venison sauce in [Page] boats. A fat neck of mutton eats well, put into red wine twenty-four hours and roasted the same way.

N.B. You may roast the hunch of mutton, after it is kept a fortnight, the same way as a haunch of venison, without putting the wine over it.

Leg of Mutton with Oysters.

Take a leg of mutton that has hung up for a week, cut the knuckle and flap off, get a quart of oysters, blanch, beard, and wash them well, cut holes all over the mutton and stick the oysters in, tie paper over it, spit it, and roast it for two hours; then take the paper off, baste and dredge it with flour, put it into a hot dish, and garnish it with horse-radish, and good gravy in the dish.

You may stew an hundred of cockles, stuff the mutton with them, and roast it the same way.

Leg or Shoulder of Mutton.

Cut of the shank of a leg or shoulder of mutton and spit it, roast it before a brisk fire, and baste it well; (a leg of ten pounds will take two hours and a half▪ a shoulder two hours) when it is nearly done baste it, sprinkle on some salt, and dredge it with flour to froth it; take it up, put it into a hot dish, and garnish with horse-radish, and onion-sauce in a boat.

Pigs.

If it should happen that you should have the pig to kill, proceed in the following manner: take a sharp▪ pointed penknife, stick the pig just above the breast-bone, and run the knife into the heart, if the heart is not cut it will be a long while dying; as soon as it is dead put it into cold water a few minutes, then rub it over with a little rosin beat fine; have a pail of scalding water, put it in, and let it lay half a minute, then take it out, lay it upon a clean table, and pull of the hair as quick as possible; if the hairs do not come off clean, dip it in the water again and [Page] when it is perfectly clean, wash it in warm water, and let it lay half an hour in cold water, then wash it out well, that it may not taste of the rosin; take off the fore-feet at the joints, slit the belly open, and take out the entrails, put the heart, liver, lights, and petty-toes together in cold water, wash the pig well in cold water, and dry it with a cloth; and if you are not ready to dress it directly, put it into a dish, and put a cloth over it. When you roast your pig, pick and wash a dozen sage leaves, and chop them fine, with a large onion, put some pepper and salt in, and the crumb of a half-penny roll: or a piece of crumb of bread put it into the inside of the pig and sew it up; put a skewer through the belly of the pig, just across the ends of the fore-legs, and another at the hind-legs, which will keep it tight, run the spit in at the vent and out of its mouth, lay it down to a clear brisk fire, put a narrow pig-iron on the bar in the middle of the fire, flour it well, and keep flouring it often, till the eyes drop out, or the crackling hard; and be sure to set a dish under it, to catch all the gravy that drops out. When the pig is nearly enough, stir up the fire a little brisker, put a quarter of a pound of butter in a coarse cloth and rub it all over till the crackling is crisp; wipe it dry, then take it up, lay it in a dish, cut off the head with a sharp knife, and cut it all down the back before you draw the spit out, put it back to back in the dish, and put it before the fire; split the head in two, take out the brains, cut the ears off, and split each side in two, lay one piece on each side the pig, one at each end, and the ears upon the shoulders; chop the brains fine and put them, with the sage and onion, and the gravy that comes from the pig, into a stew-pan, with half a pint of white gravy, boil it up, and pour it in your dish, with currant and samphire sauce in boats.

Instead of flouring it, you may rub it over with sweet-oil before you lay it down, and with a few feathers put some oil on every ten minutes, till it is nearly done, then wipe it dry with a clean cloth▪ and treat it as above. You may leave out the onion if it [Page] should not be approved of, as many ladies and gentlemen have an aversion to onion.

Hind Quarter of Pig dressed Lamp Fashion.

At a time of the year, when house lamp is very dear or not to be had, take the hind quarter of a large roasting pig, skin it, put it on a small spit, baste it with butter, and roast it half an hour; then forth it up, put it into a [...] dish, with gravy under it, and garnish with Se [...]e orange or lemon, or small sallad, with mint sauce in a boat. If you roast it of a fine light brown it will eat like lamb.

A Fawn.

Skin your fawn, and make a stuffing in the following manner; rub the [...]rumb of a penny loaf through a cullender, pick and chop half a pound of beef-suet, pick and chop a handful of parsley, some lemon-peel and sweet herbs chopped fine, seasoned with pepper and salt, and half a nutmeg grated, break in two eggs, and mix them all up together; put it in the belly, few it up, truss it, spit it, roast it before a good fire, and baste it well all the time it is roasting; (a middling sized one will take one hour and a half, a large one two hours) when it is done baste it with butter, sprinkle some salt on it, and dredge it with flour; take it up and put it in a hot dish with gravy in the dish, and mint sauce in a boat.

N. B. A young kid is roasted in the same manner.

Ham or Gammon of Bacon.

Cut off the skin, trim the underside clean, and then lay it in luke-warm water for two or three hours; then lay it in a pan, pour a quart of Canary wine upon it, and let it sleep ten or twelve hours, turn it now and then, then split it, and tie white paper over the fat part of it, pour the Canary it was soaked in into the dripping pan, and baste with it all [Page] the time it is roasting; when it is done take off the paper, and dredge it well with bread crumbs and parsley shred fine, make a fire brisk, and roast it of a fine brown; if you cat it hot, garnish with bread raspings, or lemon and beet-root; or thus, halfboil the ham or gammon, take off the rind, spit it, and dredge it with oatmeal sifted very fine, baste it with butter, roast it gently for six hours, stir up the fire, and brown it quick; when so done, pour gravy in the dish, and garnish as above.

N. B. If it is to be cat cold either way done, put it on a clean napkin in the dish, and garnish with parsley for a second course.

Ox Palates.

Boil three ox palates till they are tender, take off the two skins, cut them about two inches long, and lard half of them with bacon; then have ready two or three pigeons, and two or three small chickens, draw and truss them, fill them with force-meat, lard half of them, and spit them on a bird-spit thus: cut some slips of fat bacon, put on a bird a palate, a sage leaf, and a piece of bacon, and so on each bird a palate, a sage leaf, and a piece of bacon, and tie them on a spit by themselves; take cocks-combs and lambs-stones, parboil them, lard them with very small slips of bacon, some large oysters parboiled, and each one larded with a piece of bacon, put them on a long skewer, with a little piece of bacon, and a sage leaf between them; tie them on a spit, beat up the yolks of two eggs and rub over them, sprinkle some bread crumbs over them, roast them, and baste them with a little butter; have ready two sweet-breads cut in two, some artichoke-bottoms cut in four, and fried brown; rub the dish with shallots, lay the birds in the middle, piled upon one another, and lay the other things all separate round about the birds; have ready for sauce a pint of good gravy, a gill of red wine, the oyster liquor, a little anchovy liquor, and a piece of butter rolled in flour; boil it [Page] up, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, pour it over all in the dish, and garnish with lemon.

Calf's Liver.

Spit the liver first, lay it on a dresser, and lard it with bacon; roast it gently, baste it with butter, sprinkle some salt on it, and when it is done put it in a hot dish, with good gravy under it, and garnish it with rashers of bacon broiled.

Hare.

Having c [...]sed and trussed your hare, as directed in the article for trussing, make a stuffing thus: rub the crumb of a penny loaf through a cullender, chop a quarter of a pound of beef suet, a little fresh butter, some parsley, sweet herbs, and lemon peel chopped fine, seasoned with pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg, take the gall out of the liver, chop the liver fine, and mix together, with two eggs and a glass of red wine; put it in the belly and few or skewer it up, put the spit in at the vent and bring it out at the neck, put it down to a good fire and baste it well with butter; or put a quart of milk and half a pound of butter into your dripping pan, baste it all the time till it is done; then haste it with a little butter, sprinkle a little salt on it, and dredge it with flour to make it a fine froth; (a small hare will take an hour, a very large one an hour and a half) take it up, put it into a hot dish, with white sauce or gravy under it, and gravy and sweet sauce in boats.

Rabbits Hare Fashion.

Case, truss, and staff the rabit the same as a hare, dip the back into hot water, take off the skin, lard it with small slips of bacon or not, as you fancy, and roast it of a fine brown; put it into a hot dish; if larded, put gravy in the dish; if not larded, put white sauce under, as for hares, with currant jelly [Page] and gravy in boats; garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Rabbits.

After your rabbits are trussed spit them, and lay them down to a brisk fire, baste them with butter, sprinkle them with a little salt, and dredge a little flour on them; (half an hour will roast them, except they are very large) when done, if they are not of a fine brown, stop the spit a moment, and brown the back; when they are done take them up, cut off the heads, and split them in two, put the bodies into a hot dish, the heads round it, and garnish with lemon or orange, with liver sauce under them or in boats.

Turkey.

Truss your turkey as directed for roasting; make a stuffing as follows: take the crumb of a halfpenny roll, rub it through a cullender, a quarter of a pound of beef-suet chopped fine, some sweet herbs, parsley, and lemon-peel shred fine, grate in a little nutmeg, season it with pepper and salt, mix it up with an egg, and put it in the breast of the turkey, put the skin over and fasten it to the back with a skewer; spit it, singe it, and tie paper over the breast, put it before a moderate fire, and baste it well all the time it is roasting; when it is done take off the paper, baste it with butter, sprinkle a little salt on it, and dredge it with flour; then take it up, put it in a hot dish, with good gravy, or brown cellery sauce under it; garnish with lemon and beet-root, with onion and bread sauce in boats. A middling-sized turkey will take one hour and a quarter, bigger or less in proportion.

N. B. You may staff the breast with sausage-meat, or veal force-meat, as you like it best.

Turkey with chesnuts.

Truss your turkey for roasting, take half a hundred [Page] of chesnuts, boil them till they are tender, peel them, chop half a dozen very fine, and put in the stuffing as above; take the marrow out of two beef marrow-bones, cut it into pieces, and stuff the belly of the turkey with the marrow and chesnuts; spit it, and tie the vent close to the spit with a string, singe and paper the breast, put it down to a good fire, and baste it well all the time it is roasting; then take off the paper, baste it with butter, sprinkle a little salt on it, and dredge it with flour, to make the froth rise; take it up, and put it into a hot dish; have ready a dozen of the chesnuts split in two, stew them in half a pint of brown gravy, a gill of white wine, two shallots chopped fine, thicken it with a little butter rolled in flour, boil it smooth, pour it in the dish; and garnish with lemon and beet-root, with bread sauce and gravy in boats.

N. B. It will take a quarter of an hour longer roasting than without the marrow and chesnuts.

Turkey the Hamburgh Way.

Take one pound of lean beef, three quarters of a pound of beef-suet chopped very fine, some sweet herbs and parsley, a little garlick chopped fine, seasoned with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, mixed up with three eggs▪ draw the turkey, singe it, raise the skin all round the breast and back, and put the stuffing in; truss it for roasting, spit it, paper it all over, put it down to roast, and baste it well till it is done; then take off the paper, baste it with butter, sprinkle on some salt, and dredge it with flour to make it of a fine froth; take it up and put it in a hot dish, with brown cellery sauce under it; garnish with lemon and beet-root, with gravy and bread sauce in boats.

N. B. You may lard the breasts of the aforementioned turkies, but mind to paper them, or cut broad pieces of bacon, and tie them over the breasts, which is called barding.

Greene Geese.

After they are trussed for roasting, put a little pepper, [Page] salt, and butter in the inside, spit them, and lay them down to roast, singe and baste them well with butter, sprinkle on a little salt, and dredge them with flour, roast them three quarters of an hour, and of a fine light brown; when they are done baste them with butter, and dredge a little flour on them to make the froth rise; then take them up, and dish them in hot dishes, with good gravy under them; garnish with lemon or water-cro [...]es, with green sauce and gravy in boats.

Goose.

Trass the goose for roasting pick, wash, and chop a dozen of sage leaves, and two large onions, a spoonful of salt and one of pepper, put them in the inside, spit it, and lay it down to the fire, singe and baste it, sprinkle some salt on, and dredge it with flour; (a large goose will take one hour and a half; a small one, one, hour; a middling-size one, one hour and a quarter) when it is done baste it with butter, and dredge a little flour on it to raise the froth; take it up, put it into a hot dish, and garnish with lemon and beet-root, with some good gravy under it, and apple-sauce and gravy in boats.

Ducklings.

Truss two ducklings for roasting, put a little pepper and salt in the inside, spit them, put them down to a brisk fire, singe and baste them, sprinkle a little salt on, and dredge them with flour▪ roast them of a fine light brown, then baste them with butter, and dredge a little flour over to forth them, then take them up, put them into a hot dish, and garnish with lemon, with green sauce and gravy in boats.

Ducks.

Truss your ducks, chop some sage leaves well washed, and two large onions, seasoned with pepper and salt, and put in the inside, spit them, and lay them [Page] down to a clear, brisk fire, singe and baste them, sprinkle a [...] salt on, and dredge them with flour; roast them, if large, three quarters of an hour; if middling-size, half an hour; then baste them with butter and dredge a little flour over to froth them; take them up and [...]ut them into a hot dish; garnish with lemon and beet-root, with gravy and onion sauce in boats.

Fowls.

Trass them for roasting, spit them, and lay them down before a clear, brisk fire, singe and baste them, sprinkle a little salt on, and dredge them with flour; (a large capon will take an hour, a large fowl three quarters, and a small size half an hour) baste them often with butter; when they are done baste them with butter, and dredge some flour over to froth them; (be sure to roast them of a fine brown) then take them up, put them into a hot dish, with gravy under them, and garnish with lemon and beet-root, with egg-sauce and parsley and butter in boats.

Fowls the German Way.

Take a fowl and truss it for roasting, stuff the breast with any force-meat you like, and fill the body with roasted chesnuts peeled, spit it, and roast it as above; have a dozen more roasted chesnuts peeled, stew them in a pint of gravy, season it with pepper and salt, and thicken it with a little butter mixed with flour, and boil it till it is smooth; fry or broil half a dozen sausages, put the sauce in the dish, the fowls on it, and the sausages round; garnish with lemon.

N. B. You may dress ducks the same way, only leave out the sausages.

Fowls with Chesnuts.

Boil forty chesnuts till they are tender, peel them, mince about twenty very fine, and bruise them in a mortar, parboil the livers of the fowls and put them in the mortar, with half a pound of ham or bacon [Page] shred fine, beat it all well together; chop a handful of parsley, some sweet herbs, a little lemon-peel chopped fine, season it with pepper and salt, a little beaten mace and nutmeg, mix it all well up, and stuff the inside and breast of the fowl with it, spit it, tie the rump and neck-ends close, singe, baste, and roast it of a fine brown: for sauce, have the rest of the chesnuts, peeled and skinned, put them into a stew-pan, with half a pint of good gravy, a glass of white wine, thicken it with a little butter mixed with flour; boil it up till it is smooth, and put it in the dish; froth up the fowl, take it up, put it into the dish, and garnish with lemon.

Chickens.

Truss them for roasting, spit them, and put them down to a clear fire; singe and baste them with butter, sprinkle a little salt and dredge a little flour on them, and roast them twenty minutes of a light brown; then baste them, and dredge on a little flour to froth them; take them up, put them into a hot dish, with a little gravy under them, and garnish with lemon and beet-root, with parsley and butter and egg sauce in boats.

Chickens with Cucumbers.

Truss two chickens for roasting, break the breastbones salt, and make a force-meat thus: take the flesh of a sowl and of two pigeons▪ with two or three slices of ham or bacon, chop them fine altogether, take the crumb of a penny loat, soaked in milk and boiled up, set it to cool, and when cold mix the ingredients together, with some sweet herbs, parsley, and lemonpeel shred fine, seasoned with beaten mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt, and the yolks of two eggs; fill the chickens with it, spit them, tie them at both ends, and paper the br [...]ls; take four cucumbers, pare them, and take out the pulp, put them in salt and water two hours before you use them: then dry them with a cloth, fill them with force-meat, (which you [Page] must take care to save) tie them round with packthread, flour and fry them brown: when your chickens are roasted enough take them up, and lay them in the roasted enough take them up, and lay them in the dish; untie the cucumbers, but take care the meat does not fall out, lay them round the chickens, with good gravy in the dish; garnish with lemon, and gravy in a boat.

Pheasants.

After your pheasant is trussed to roast, spit it, put it before a clear fire, singe and baste it, sprinkle a little salt on it, dredge it with flour, roast it half a [...] hour, and baste it often; when it is done froth it, take it up and put it in a hot dish, with gravy under it; garnish with lemon and beet-root, or cresses, with bread and poveroy sauce in boats.

Be sure to stick two of the best tail feathers in the rump.

Partridges.

Roast them the fame way for twenty minutes of a light brown, put them into a hot dish, with gravy under them, and garnish with lemon and beet-root, with bread and poveroy sauce in boats.

Fowl Pheasant Fashion.

If you should have but one pheasant, and want two in a dish, truss a black-legged fowl the same way as a pheasant, and lard the breast with bacon, but not the pheasant, and nobody will know the difference. You must put a pheasant's tail-feather in the rump.

Wild Ducks.

When they are trussed put a little pepper and salt in the inside of them, (some like a little sage and onion shred fine in one, and some a little sage only) spit them, and put them down before a brisk fire, and singe and baste them, sprinkle a little salt and dredge a little flour on them, roast them twenty minutes, or [Page] if you like them well done twenty-five minutes, froth them up, and put them in a hot dish; garnish with water cresses, with a good gravy in the dish, and onion sauce and gravy in the boats.

Pintails and dun birds will take twenty minutes; easterlings or widgeons, if large twenty minutes, if small fifteen minutes, teal twelve or thirteen minutes; dish them the same as wild ducks, but no onion sauce for teal.

Woodcocks and Snipes.

After they are picked and trussed put them on a bird-spit, and tie them on another, cut a toast round a loaf, toast it on both sides, and butter it, lay the woodcocks down, singe and baste them with butter, put the toast under them for the trail to drop on, baste them often, and roast them, if large, twenty-five minutes, if small and thin twenty minutes; froth them up, take up the toast, cut it in quarters, put it in the dish, and put some gravy and butter over it, take up the woodcocks and put them on it, with the bills outward: garnish with lemon, beet-root, or cresses, with a little melted butter in a boat.

You may take the trail out before you put them down to roast, and put it into a stew-pan with a little gravy, and simmer it five minutes, put a little melted butter to it, shake it round, and put it on the toasts; or you may fry bread crumbs, the same as for larks, and send in a plate.

Snipes are done the same way, only roast the large ones twenty minutes, small thin ones fifteen minutes.

Ortolans.

Truss them like woodcocks on a small spit, and put vine leaves between, tie them on another spit, put them to a brisk fire, and baste them well with butter, with fried bread-crumbs in the dish, and gravy in boats.

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Ruffs and Reefs.

These birds are found in Lincolnshire and the Isle of Ely, and very rarely in any county of England besides; the proper way to feed them is, to put them in separate cages, and crumble white bread, soak it in milk, with a little fine sugar, and boil it; when cold put it in the pan or trough, every one separate, as they are of so delicate a nature they will not feed together; they feed very fast, and if not killed in eight or ten days they will die of their fat. When you kill them, pick and truss them like a woodcock, only cut off the head, or leave it on, according to your fancy, and draw them, put them on a bird-spit, and tie them on another, with vine leaves between and over the breasts, and put them before a clear fire; cut a toast round a loaf, toast it on both sides, put it under the birds, baste them with butter, and roast them twenty minutes; have ready some crcumbs of bread crispt before the fire, put the toast in the dish, the birds upon it, with the crispt bread round them, and good gravy and plain butter in boats.

Larks the Dunstable Way.

Put a dozen larks on a bird-spit, tie them on another spit, and put them down to a moderate fire; take the crumb of a three-penny loaf and rub it through a cullender, baste them with butter, and sprinkle them with the crumbs of bread, baste them often, strew bread crumbs on them for twenty-five minutes, and let them be of a fine light brown: in the mean time take a good many crumbs of bread, put some butter in a pan, and fry the crumbs crisp and brown; put the larks in a dish, with the crumbs all round them, nearly as high as the larks, with plain butter and gravy in boats.

Guinea Fowl.

Truss it the same as a pheasant, and lard the breast: roast it the same as a pheasant, with bread sauce and gravy in boats.

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Pigeons.

[...] a handful of parsley, put a little pepper and salt, [...] it up with butter, and stuff the insides of the pigeons with it; put them on a small spit, and tie both ends close, put them to a clear fire, singe and baste them with butter, sprinkle a little salt on, and dredge them with flour; roast them twenty minutes, froth them up, put them into a dish, and garnish with lemon, with parsley sauce and gravy in boats.

You may tie the nock-ends, put a skewer through the legs, tie a string to it, and to a chimney-piece, keep them turning till they are done, and they will swim in their own gravy.

Plovers.

Truss them like woodcocks, put them on a birdspit, tie them on another, and put them before a clear fire; cut a toast round a loaf, toast it on both sides, put it under the plovers, singe and baste them with butter, sprinkle a little salt on them, and roast them a quarter of an hour; cut the toast in four pieces, put it into a hot dish, with a little gravy and butter over it, put on the birds, and send them away hot.

Wheat-Ears.

These little birds are found in the South Downs, near Brighthelmstone, Lewes, Tunbridge, &c. Pick and truss them the same as larks, put them on a bird-spit, with a vine leaf between, tie them on another spit, put them down before a clear fire, baste them with butter, roast them ten minutes, and then put them into a hot dish; have ready some bread-crumbs fried, the same as for larks, put them round the birds, with plain butter and gravy in boats.

Ox-Heart.

Cut the deaf ears off the heart, and wash out all the blood; make the following staffing: grate the [Page] crumb of a penny roll, half a pound of beef-suet chopped fine, some parsley and sweet herbs shred fine, a little lemon-peel, and a little grated nutmeg, seasoned with pepper and salt, break in two eggs, mix it all together, and stuff the heart with it; tie a piece of strong paper over it to keep in the stuffing, spit it through the middle, put it down to a good fire, and baste well all the time it is roasting; (if a large one it will take two hours) when done take it up, and put it in a water-dish, with hot gravy in it, and send it away as quick as possible, as it soon gets cold, with currant jelly and gravy in boats.

Calf's Heart.

Cut off the deaf ears, wash out all the blood, and make the following stuffing: grate the crumb of a halfpenny roll, a little veal or beef-suet chopped fine, a little parsley, sweet herbs, and lemon-peel shred fine, and a little grated nutmeg, seasoned with pepper and salt, mix it up with an egg, and stuff the heart with it; tie a paper over the top to keep the stuffing in, spit it, roast it one hour, and baste it well with butter; when done take it up, and put it into a hot dish, with gravy and butter mixed under it.

Veal Sweetbreads.

Take three large windpipe sweetbreads, boil them for five or six minutes, and when cold rub them over with the yolk of an egg, and sprinkle bread-crumbs on them, put them on a bird-spit, tie them on another, put them before a clear fire, baste them with butter, and roast them half an hour of a fine brown; cut three small toasts, toast them on both sides, put them in the dish, and pour gravy and butter over them; then take up the sweetbreads, put them on the toasts, and garnish with lemon and beet root.

Quails.

Pick and truss them like partridges, put them on a bird-spit, tie [...]ne leaves over the breasts, and tie [Page] them on another spit, roast them for twenty minutes before a clear fire, and baste them with butter often: when they are done put them in a dish, with fried bread-crumbs round them, and bread sauce and grary in boats.

CHAP. VII.
BAKING.

Rump of Beef.

TAKE a rump of beef cut the meat from the bones, cut the sinews off, and beat it well with a rolling pin; cut some pieces of bacon about a quarter of an inch square, chop a handful of parsley, some sweet herbs, some beaten cloves, mace, allspice, pepper and salt, mixed altogether with a gill of red wine, roll the bacon in, and with a large lardingpin lard the beef through, season it with pepper, salt, cloves, and mace beat fine; chop the bones, put them in an earthen pan, and the meat at top, half a pound of butter, some bay leaves, a little whole pepper, a bundle of sweet herbs, three or four shallots, half a pint of red wine, and the same quantity of water, cover the pan close, and bake it three hours; when done, take the meat out and put it into a dish before the fire, strain the liquor off, skim off all the fat, and put it into a stew-pan, with a piece of butter rolled in flour, boil it till it is smooth, then pour it over the meat, and garnish it with toasted sippe [...]s. You may add mushrooms, truffles, morels, and artichoke-bottoms cut into pieces in the sauce if you like it.

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Ribs of Beef.

Cut the chine-bone off, and crack the ribs to make them lay even on the dish, sprinkle them with salt, and lay some bits of butter on the top, dredge them all over with flour, put them into an earthen pan, and bake them; when done, put them in a clean hot dish, and garnish with horse-radish.

Toad in a Hole.

Mix a pound of flour with a pint and a half of milk and four eggs into a batter, put in a little salt, beaten ginger, and a little grated nutmeg, put it into a deep dish that you intend to send it to table in, take the veiney piece of beef, sprinkle it with salt, put it into the batter, bake it two hours, and send it up hot.

Leg of Beef.

Take a leg of beef, cut off the meat into pieces, and break the bone, put it into an earthen pan, with a bundle of sweet herbs, two onions, six bay leaves, a spoonful of whole pepper, some cloves and mace, and a spoonful of salt, cover it with water, and put in half a pint of red wine, tie it down close with strong paper, and bake it well till it is tender; when it is done take it out, strain it through a sieve, and pick out all the fat and sinews; put a little butter into a stew-pan, melt it, and put in a spoonful of flour, stir it till it is smooth, put in a pint of the liquor, boil it up, then put in the fat and strews, season it with pepper and salt, and a spoonful of mustard, shake [...] about till it is thoroughly hot put it into the dish, and garnish with toasted sippers.

Calf's Head.

Take a calf's head, trim it, and wash it very clean, take out the brains and throw them into cold water to soak out the blood, get and earthen dish big enough to lay the head on, and rub the inside of [Page] the dish with butter; cut a pound of lean beef into pieces and put in, with a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion stuck with cloves, two Stades of make, and a quart of water; lay some skewers across the top of the dish, and lay the head upon them, rub some stale bread through a cullender, chop some parsley and sweet herbs fine, a little lemon-peel shred fine, some pepper and salt, and half a nutmeg grated, mix them altogether; skewer the meat up, that it may not touch the dish, rub the yolk of an egg over it, and strew the crumbs and herbs over it; fill the eyes with butter, and put some in bits all over the head; in the mean time boil the brains, with three or four sage leaves, and chop them fine; when the head is baked of a fine brown, put it in a dish before the fire to keep hot, then stir all together in the dish, put it into a sauce-pan boil it up, and strain it; put it into the sauce-pan again, with the brains and sage leaves, a spoonful of ketchup, a gill of red wine, a piece of butter mixed with flour, and boil it up till it is thick and smooth; put the sauce in the dish, and the head upon it. You must not cut the tongue out, but when it is baked peel it, and it will make the head lay better in the dish.

A sheep's head baked the same way cats very well.

Calf's Head the Dutch Way.

Get half a pint of Spanish peas, and lay them in water all night; wash the head very clean, take [...] the brains, and put them into water to soak out the blood, lay the head in a deep dish, mix the peas with a pound of whole rice well washed, and lay them round the head; then take two quarts of water, season it with pepper and salt, and a little beaten mace, colour it with saffron, and pour it over, bake it well, and send it up in the same dish hot.

You may fry the brains in little cakes, and put, them round and over the head for garnish.

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Lamb and rice.

Take a neck or loin of lamb, half roast it, and cut it into chops: in the mean time boil half a pound of rice in two quarts of water for ten minutes, strain it off, and put into a quart of good gravy with a little beaten mace and nutmeg, stew it over a flow fire, and keep it stirring till it begins to thicken; take it off, put in half a pound of butter, and stir it till the butter is melted; beat up the yolks of six eggs and stir in, then butter your dish, season the chops with pepper and salt, lay them in the dish, pour the gravy which came out of them over them, and then put the rice over them, beat up the yolks of three eggs and put over all; send it to the oven, and bake it three quarters of an hour.

Pig.

Treat your pig the same as for roasting, rub it all over with butter, and flour it well; butter an earthen dish, put it in, and put it in the oven; take it out as soon as it is done, put a piece of butter in a cloth, and wipe it clean; put it in the oven again till it is dry, then take it out, lay it in a dish, and cut it up the same as a roasted one; skim the fat off the dish clean, and take the gravy that is under, with the brains, sage, &c. and half a pint of veal gravy, thicken it with a little butter mixt with flour, give it a boil up, and put it in the dish.

Fillet of Veal.

Take the bone out of the middle, truss and stuff it the same as for roasting, butter an earthen dish, butter the veal all over, sprinkle on some salt, and dredge it with flour, put it in the dish and bake it; when done put it in another dish, pour gravy and butter mixed over it, and garnish with lemon.

Ox-Heart.

Stuff it the same as for roasting, but do not put [Page] any paper over it, set it upright in the dish by means of a wire stand, and bake it two hours; when done, have some hot gravy ready, put it in a dish, and send it away directly.

Herrings.

Scade, gut, wash, and cut off the heads, wipe them dry with a cloth, and lay them on a board; mix some black and Jamaica pepper, a few cloves, and plenty of salt, rub the fish with it, lay them straight in a pot, with by leaves between them, cover them with vinegar, tie a strong paper over them, and bake them in a moderate oven; they may be eat hot or cold, but best cold. When you take any out, put them in a dish, with a little of the [...]; tie them down close again, and they will keep a long time.

Sprats.

Wipe your sprats with a clean cloth, rub them with pepper and salt, and lay them in a pan; bruise a penny worth of cochineal, put it into the vinegar, and pour it over the sprats, with some [...] heaves, tie then down close with coarse paper, and let them in the oven all night. They cat very fine [...].

You may put to a pint of vinegar half a pint of red wine, and spices if you like it; but they eat very well without.

CHAP. VIII.
BROILING.

Proper Rules to be observed in Broiling.

BE sure to keep your gridirons clean scraped between the bars, and rub the tops bright before [Page] you use them, which will prevent their flaring, as it often spoils every thing you broil. Before you begin let your fire burn clear, and free from smoke; turn your beef-steaks, mutton, lamb, or pork chops quick; cutlets seldom want turning more than once if done gradually; have your dish very hot before the fire, or over a chaffing-dish of coals, to put the meat on as soon as it is done. Never garnish any thing broiled, but put your horse-radish and pickles in saucers or small plates; and be sure to cover the dish as quick as possible, and send it away hot. Never baste any thing with butter or fat of any kind while broiling, as it will make it smoky and black. Fowls, chickens, pigeons, &c. require to be broiled gently, because they are not so soon hot through as meat; and have your sauce ready to send, or put over, the moment they are done.

Fowls and Chickens.

Slit them down the back, and put two skewers through them to keep them open, singe, pepper, and salt them, put your gridiron over a clear fire, and at a distance; put them on the belly-side downwards first, till they are nearly half done, then turn them, and take care the fleshy-side does not burn; put the liver and gizzard on a skewer, pepper and salt and broil them; lay your fowls in a hot dish, and pour fresh or pickled mushroom sauce over them; garnish with the liver and gizzard and notched lemon; or this sauce, pick and wash some sorrel, chop it fine, put it into a stew-pan, with half a pint of gravy, a piece of butter mixed with flour, season it with pepper and salt, and stew it for ten minutes; put it in the dish, and the fowls over it, or any sauce you fancy.

Pigeons.

Chop some parsley fine, mix it up with butter, pepper, and salt, tie the neck-ends and stuff them, tie the other end, put your gridiron over a clear fire at [Page] a great distance, and broil them gently for half an hour; or you may split them down the back, put a skewer through, pepper, salt, and broil them: put them into a hot dish, with a little gravy under them, and parsley and butter in a boat.

Beef Steaks.

Take a rump of beef that has been hung up for five or six days, cut your steaks all the length, about an inch thick, beat them with a chopper, put your gridiron over a clear fire, and rub it with a little beef-suet, put on your steaks, and turn them quick till they are nearly done, then pepper and salt them and turn them quick till done; have a hot dish, put them in, cover them up, and send them away hot with chopped shallots, horse-radish, and pickles in saucers.

Beef Steaks the French Way.

Put half a pint of gravy, the same of red wine, with half a dozen shallots chopped fine, seasoned with pepper and salt, into a stew-pan; cut two fine rump-steaks, half broil them, then cut them in square pieces and put them into the stew-pan, with a spoonful of vinegar, cover them close, and simmer them over a slow fire half an hour: then put them into a hot-dish, cover them, and send them away hot.

Mutton Chops.

Take a loin of mutton, cut off the skin, and part of the fat, (if it is very fat cut the chops about half an inch thick) pepper and salt them, put your gridiron over a clear fire, and broil them quick; (but mind that the gridiron does not flare, for that will spoil them) put them into a hot dish, with a spoonful of ketchup under them, and horse-radish and chopped shallots in saucers.

Cutlets Maintenon.

Cut six this chops off the best end of a neck of [Page] mutton, with a bone in each, cut the fat off the bone and scrape it clean; take fix half-sheets of paper, and rub a little butter over them, rub the crumb of a stale penny loaf through a cullender, shred some parsley, sweet herbs, and lemon-peel fine, mix them with the crumbs, and season it with pepper, salt, and nutmeg; melt a little butter in a stew-pan, dip the chops in on both sides, and put the crumbs, &c. on them, put them in the paper and fasten it, leaving out the bone, broil them for twenty minutes over a clear fire, but mind the paper does not catch fire; put them into a hot dish, with poveroy sauce in a boat.

You may make it of a loin of mutton the same way.

Pork Chops.

Cut a loin of pork into chops half an inch thick▪ notch the rind, pepper and salt them, and broil them over a clear fire of a fine brown; (they require more time than mutton) when done, put them into a hot dish, with a little gravy under them.

Veal Cutlets.

Cut your cutlets of a fillet of veal about a quarter of an inch thick, and about six inches broad, put bread crumbs and herbs, the same as for cutlets Mai [...] tenon, on both sides, put your gridiron over a very clear fire, put on the cutlets, and broil one side of a fine brown, turn them, broil the other side the same, and put them in a hot dish; have ready the following sauce: put half a pint of gravy in a sauce-pan, with a piece of butter mixed with flour, two spoonsful of ketchup, a little pepper and salt, boil it till it is thick and smooth, and put it over them; or fresh or pickled mushroom sauce, with thin rashers of bacon broiled for garnish.

Veal Cutlets Maintenon.

Cut your cutlets off a fillet of veal a quarter of an inch thick, and two inches square, put them in paper the same as cutlets Maintenon, broil them, put them in a hot dish, with poveroy sauce in a boat.

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Veal Chops.

Cut your chops off a loin of veal about three quarters of an inch thick, pepper and salt them, put your gridiron over a clear fire, and broil them gently of a fine brown; put them in a hot dish, with gravy and butter over them.

Lamp Chops.

Take a loin of grass lamb, and cut it into thin chops; put a skewer through the kidney part to keep it together, season them with pepper and salt, put your gridiron over a very clear fire, and broil them of a fine brown, but take care they do not flare, as that will make them black; when done, put them in a hot dish and cover them, and send them away quick and hot.

Potatoes.

First boil and peel them, cut them in two, and broil them brown on both sides, put them in a hot dish, with melted butter in a boat.

Legs of Turkey or Fowls.

Take the legs that have been boiled or roasted, score them across, and season them with Cayan pepper and salt pretty high, and broil them over a clear fire of a nice brown; when done, put them in a hot dish, with a little gravy under them.

Calfs Heart.

Cut the deaf ears off, and split it open, put a skewer across, season it with pepper and salt, broil it gently over a clear fire, fifteen minutes, then put it in a hot dish, and rub a piece of butter over it. A sheep or lamb's heart is done the same way.

CHAP. IX.
FRYING.

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Proper Rules to be observed in Frying.

BEFORE you proceed to fry any thing▪ mind that your frying-pan is very clean, free from sand, and well tinned; and when you use any fat, be sure it is well rendered and clean, and before you put any thing in to have your fat boiling hot, but do not let it burn, as it will fry every thing black; you may know when it is hot, by its not hiffin [...] throw in a little bit of bread, and if it fries crisp your fat is hot: be careful to wipe every thing with a cloth before you fry it. As fried parsley is often wanted for garnish, be sure to have it well picked and washed, put it into a cloth, and swing it backwards and forwards till the water is out, then have your pan of fat hot and put it in, fry it quick, but mind it does not boil over; have a slice ready to take it out the moment it is crisp, for if you let it stay too long it will look black, and put it an a sieve or coarse cloth before the fire to drain.

Beef Steaks.

Cut rump steaks in the same manner as for broiling, put a piece of butter into a stew-pan and melt it, season the steaks with pepper and salt, put them in the pan, and fry them on both sides of a fine brown; put them into a hot dish before the fire, throw out the fat, shake a little flour into the pan, and half a pint of gravy, with two or three shallots chopped fine, and a spoonful of ketchup, boil it up, and pour it over the steaks, with horse-radish and pickles in saucers.

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Mutton Chops.

Cut a loin of mutton into chops, take off the skin, pepper and salt them, put a little butter into a pan, melt it, put in the chops, and fry them quick and brown on both sides; chop a little shallot or onion small, put it in the dish, with the chops over it, and garnish with horse-radish.

Lamp Chops.

Cut a loin, or the best end of a neck of lamb into thin chops, pepper and salt them, rub the yolk of an egg on both sides, and sprinkle bread-crumbs over them; have a pan of beef dripping boiling hot, put them in, and fry them on both sides of a fine gold colour; take them out, and put them on a sieve before the fire to drain the fat from them; put them into a hot dish, and garnish with plenty of fried parsley, with plain butter in a boat; or you may fry them in plenty of butter if you like it best.

Another Way.

Cut the lamb into chops as before, pepper, salt, and flour them; put some butter into a stew-pan, fry them on both sides of a nice brown, and put them in a dish before the fire; pour the fat out of the pan, skake in some flour, put in half a pint of white gravy a gill of white wine, and a few capers chopped fine seasoned with pepper, salt, and a little nutmeg, boil it up; beat the yolks of two eggs well up and put in, keeping it stirring till it is thick, then pour it over the chops, and garnish them with fried parsley.

Lamb's Fry.

Cut your fry into pieces about two inches long, the liver into thin slices, pepper, salt, and flour it well, take the skin off the stones: have a pan of hogs lard or beef dripping boiling hot, put the fry in, and when you think it is half done put in the liver, keep it turning, fry it quick of a fine brown, and then put [Page] it on a sieve [...]o drain; fry a handful of parsley crisp, put a fish-drainer in the dish, put the fry on that, and garnish with the fried parsley, with plain butter in a boat; or you may give it a scald first, but not the liver, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle bread crumbs over it, and fry it as before.

Pigs Ears.

Boil them till they are tender, then cut them in two, make a light ale or small beer batter, and dip them in; have a pan of fat boiling hot, fry them crisp and brown, and put them on a sieve to drain the fat from them; then put them in a hot dish, mix some melted butter with a spoonful of mustard, pour it over them, and send them to table hot.

Veal Steaks.

Cut your steaks about as thick as a crown piece, pepper and salt them; put some butter into a sryingpan and melt it, put in the steaks, fry them on both sides of a light brown, and then put them into a dish before the fire; pour the fat out of the pan, shake in a little flour, with half a pint of gravy, a spoonful of ketchup, and a little pepper and salt, boil it up, squeeze in the juice of a quarter of a lemon, pour it over the steaks, and garnish with lemon; cover it over, and send it away hot.

Cold Veal.

Cut your veal in thin slices, about as thick as a half crown piece, and as long as you please; have ready some bread crumbs parsley, sweet herbs, and lemon-peel shred fine, all mixed together, seasoned with pepper, salt and grated nutmeg, rub some yolk of eggs on both sides, and sprinkle the crumbs and herbs on them; put some butter into a pan and melt it, put the veal in, and fry it brown on both sides; when done, put it in a dish before the fir [...] in the [Page] the mean time make a little gravy of the bones, shake a little flour in the pan, and put in the gravy, with a spoonful of ketchup, stir it round, squeeze in a little lemon. boil it up, and strain it through a sieve over the veal: garnish with lemon. You may put a few pickled mushrooms over the veal.

Cold Fowl, Pigeon, or Rabbit.

Cut them in quarters, and beat up an egg or two, according to the quantity you dress, grate in a little nutmeg, some pepper and salt, some parsley, sweet herbs, lemon peel shred fine, and a few bread crumbs, dip them in this batter; have a pan of dripping boiling hot, and fry them of a light brown; when done, put them on a sieve to drain, then put them in a hot dish, with pickled mushroom sauce over them, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Tripe.

Take the middle of the double tripe, and cut it across about three inches wide; make a good small beer or ale batter, and dip the tripe in on both sides; have ready a pan of hogs lard or dripping boiling hot, put it in, and fry it of a fine brown on both sides; take it out, and put i [...] on a sieve or coarse cloth to drain before the fire, then put it in a hot dish, with a fish drainer in it; garnish with fried parsley, and plain butter in a boat

You may rub it over with the yolks of eggs instead of batter if you please.

Sausages.

Put them into a sauce-pan of hot water, and boil them two or three minutes; take them out, and prick them in several places with a pin, which will prevent them from bursting; put a piece of butter in a pan, and make it hot, put in the sausages, fry them brown on both sides and then put them on a sieve to drain; cut some toasts and fry them in the [Page] pan, put the toasts into a dish and the sausages over them.

You may pare and core six apples, cut four in slices as thick as a crown piece, the other two in quarters, and fry them with sausages; lay the sausages in the middle of the dish, the apples round and garnish with the quarters.

Potatoes.

Pare as many raw potatoes as you will want, cut them in slices as big as a crown piece, flour them, and fry them brown and crisp on both sides in fresh butter; put them in a hot dish, and pour melted butter, sack, and sugar mixed over them, or send them without, only a little plain butter in a boat.

Artichokes.

Take four artichokes, break them off the stalks, wash them clean, cut all the large leaves off close to the choke, and boil them till tender; then cut them in quarters, pepper, salt, and flour them, fry them brown in fresh butter, and put them in a hot dish, with plain butter in a boat.

When you have artichoke bottoms, dried or pickled; if dried, simmer them till they are tender, wipe them dry with a cloth, make a small beer, ale or egg batter, and fry them brown in a pan of boiling hot fat; if pickled, lay them in water all night, then take them out, wipe them dry with a cloth, dip them in batter, and fry them brown; put them on a sieve to drain, put them in a hot dish, and pour melted butter over them. These are a pretty corner dish for supper.

Cellery.

Take twelve heads of cellery, trim off all the green and outside stalks, wash and pare the roots clean; beat up the yolks of three eggs with half a pint of white wine, grate in some nutmeg and a little salt, [Page] mix all well together with flour into a batter, and dip every head into it; put a pound of butter into a pan and make it hot, then put in the cellery and fry it brown when done, put it on a sieve to drain, then put it in a hot dish, with plain butter over it.

Cauliflowers.

Take one large or two small cauliflowers, wash them very clean, half boil them, and pull them in to sprigs: make a batter thus: beat up the yolks of two eggs, with a gill of white wine, a little grated nutmeg, and a little salt, mix it with flower into a light batter, and dip in the sprigs; have ready a large pan of hogs-lard boiling hot, put them in sprig by sprig, fry them of a fine brown, and then put them on a sieve to drain; put them in a hot dish, and pour melted butter over them. They are a pretty garnish round a boiled cauliflower.

Eggs.

Put about half a pound of good sat into a fryingpan, make it hot, break half a dozen eggs into caps and put in, fry them quick, but not too much, take them out with an egg slice and put them on a toast; or fry six rashers of bacon, put them in a dish, and the eggs over them.

Oysters.

Take the largest oysters you can get, give them a boil in their own liquor a moment, strain the liquor from them, wash them well in cold water, and dry them in a cloth; make a good small beer, ale, or egg butter, seasoned with a little nutmeg and salt, and dip them in: have a pan of hogs lard boiling hot, fry them of a light brown, put them on a sieve to drain, and then in a hot dish; or to garnish made dishes calf's head, cod's head, &c.

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Calf's Liver and Bacon.

Cut a calf's liver across in slices, wipe it dry with a cloth, pepper, salt and flower it; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a frying pan, make it hot, put in the liver, and fry it brown on both sides; put it on a dish before the fire, pour the fat out of the pan, shake in a little flour, and put in a quarter of a pound of butter, stir it round, and put in half a pint of boiling water, a spoonful of ketchup, a little pepper and salt, boil it up and put it over the liver: in the mean time fry half a dozen rashers of bacon and put round, and garnish with crisp parsley.

CHAP. X.
STEWS AND HASHES.

Proper Rules to be observed in Stewing and Hashing.

BEFORE you proceed to stew any thing, mind that your stew-pans and covers are free from sand or grease, and well tinned; and have all your ingredients ready to put in at once. Be sure to skin every thing well and clear from fat, as nothing looks worse than to see the fat swim at the top. For hashes, be sure to have your sauce ready before you put the meat in, and that will prevent it from being hard; particularly beef, mutton, and venison, should only be made hot through, for if you let it boil, it makes it tough and hard, and entirely spoils it.

Rump of Beef.

Take a rump of beef, cut the meat from the bone, [Page] lay it in a stew-pan, with a quart of gravy, a pint of red wine and as much water as will nearly cover it, with some whole pepper, two or three onions, a bundle of sweet herbs, some Cayan pepper and salt, and a gill of ketchup, cover it close, stew it gently over a slow fire for four hours, and put some red hot coals at the top: in the mean time cut four or five turneps and two carrots into any shape you please, four heads of cellery cut about an inch long, with a dozen small onions, and boil them till they are tender; then take out the beef, put it in a dish before the fire, strain of the liquor through a sieve, and skim off all the fat clean; put a piece of butter into a stew-pan, melt it, and put two spoonsfull of flour in, stir it till it is smooth, then by degrees pour the liquor in, keep it stirring till it is smooth, and put in the carrots, &c. boil it up five minutes, and if it wants any seasoning put it in; then put the beef into a deep dish, put the sauce over it, and garnish with fried sippets; or you may put truffles and morels, pickled mushrooms and artichoke bottoms in the sauce, instead of the turneps, &c.

Rump of Beef another Way.

Boil it for two hours, then take it up, and peel off the skin; chop a handful of parsley, all sorts of sweet herbs, and a little lemon-peel shred fine, some beaten cloves, mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt, mixed together, cut holes in the beef with a sharp-pointed knife and stuff it in, save the liquor that comes from the meat, put the beef into a deep stew-pan, and put in the liquor, with a pint of claret, rub the meat over with the yolk of an egg, bake it two hours, or stew it over a slow fire, with fire on the top: then put it in a dish, strain off the liquor, skim it well, and pour it over the meat; garnish with fried sippets.

Rump or Brisket of Beef the French Way.

Take a small rump or a piece of brisket of beef, [Page] cut it from the bone, and lay it in a deep earthen pan; mix a pint of red and white port, a little vinegar, some cloves, mace, and nutmeg beat fine, parsley, sweet herbs, and six shallots chopped fine altogether, put it over the beef, and let it lay all night; cut some rashers of bacon and lay them at the bottom of a stew-pan, put the beef on, with two quarts of good gravy, the wine, &c. twelve bay leaves, and a large head of garlick chopped fine, cover it close, and put some fire on the top, put it over a slow fire, and stew it five hours; then take it out, put it before the fire to keep hot, strain off the liquor, and skim all the fat clean off, put it into a stew-pan, with some truffles and morels, pickled mushrooms and artichoke bottoms, blanched and cut into pieces, or some carrots and turneps cut as for a herrico; or small savoys boiled tender, seasoned with Cayan pepper, and give it a boil up; put the beef into a deep dish, pour the sauce over it, and garnish with fried sippets.

Beef Gobbots.

Take about six pounds of any piece of beef, except the leg and shin, cut it into pieces about as big as a hen's egg, put them into a stew-pan, and just cover them with water, put them over the fire, and when the skum rises skim it clean off, then put in some cloves, mace, all-spice, and whole pepper tied in a muslin rag▪ six heads of cellery cut an inch long and well washed, a carrot or two cut in slices, two turneps into dice, a bundle of sweet herbs, some pepper and salt, and a crust of bread, stew it till the meat is tender, and then take out the spice, herbs, and bread; have some crusts of French roll crispt before the fire, put them in a dish, and put the meat, &c. over them.

You may put in two ounces of Scotch barley or rice when you put in the herbs, &c.

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Beef the Portugal Way.

Take a rump of beef, cut the meat off the bone, cut it in two across, flour the thin end, and fry it in butter of a fine brown; boil half a hundred of chesnuts till they are tender, peel them, chop half of them fine, with half a pound of beef-suet, an onion, some sweet herbs, parsley, and an anchovy, seasoned with pepper and salt, mix it all up with the yolks of two eggs, and stuff the thick end of the beef with it; put both into a stew-pan, with two quarts of strong broth and a pint of white wine, a large head of garlick chopped fine, cover it close, and stew it gently for four hours; then take it out, lay the thick piece in the middle, cut the fried piece in two, and lay at each end, and put it to the fire to keep hot; strain off the gravy, skim all the fat off clean, and put it into a stew-pan, with some butter mixed with flour, a spoonful of browning; some pickled cucumbers cut in slices, and the other chesnuts peeled and skinned; boil it up till it is thick and smooth, season it with Cayan pepper and salt to your palate, and pour it over the beef; garnish with lemon and fried oysters.

Beef Steaks.

Take two fine rump steaks, pepper and salt them, lay them in a stew-pan, with half a pint of water, a little cloves and mace, an onion, one anchovy, a bundle of sweet herbs, a gill of white wine, and a little butter mixed with flour; cover them close, stew them gently till they are tender, and shake the pan round often to keep them from sticking; take them carefully out, flour them, and fry them of a nice brown in fresh butter, and put them in the dish: in the mean time strain off the sauce, pour the fat out of the frying-pan, and put in the sauce, with a dozen oysters blanched, and a little of the oyster liquor; give it a boil up, pour it over the steaks, and garnish with horse radish.

You may fry the steaks first, and then stew them; [Page] put them in a dish, and strain the sauce over them, without any oysters.

Beef with Cucumbers.

Take about two pounds of any tender piece of beef, put some fat bacon over it, and tie a paper over that, half roast it, and then cut it into slices; p [...]re six cucumbers, take out the pulp, cut them in little square pieces, and flour them, put a piece of butter in a stew-pan, fry them a few minutes, dredge in a little flour, pour in a pint of gravy, a glass of white wine, and season it with pepper and salt, put in the beef, and stew it till it is tender. If the sauce is not thick enough, put in a little butter mixed with flour, and stew it till it is thick and smooth; put the meat in a dish, the sauce over it, and garnish with fried sippets.

Neats Tongues whole.

Take two fresh tongues, wash them very clean, put them in water just enough to cover them, and stew them for two hours; then take them up, peel the skins off, and trim all the root part close to the blade, put them into a stew-pan, with a quart of gravy, a bundle of sweet herbs, some cloves, mace, whole pepper, and all-spice in a muslin rag, and half a pint of white wine, cover them close, and stew them till they are tender; in the mean time cut some carrots and turneps into dice, and boil them tender; take out the spice and herbs, put in a piece of butter rolled in flour, take out the tongues and put them in a dish before the fire, put in the carrots and turneps, season it with pepper and salt, boil it till it is thick and smooth, skim it well, and pour it over the tongues; garnish with fried sippets.

Breast of Venison.

Take the skin off a breast of venison, chop the bones, turn it round, and skewer it, put it into a stew-pan, with a quart of water, half a pint of red [Page] wine, a bundle of sweet herbs, some cloves and mace tied in a muslin rag, a little pepper and salt, and stew it gently for three hours; then take it out, skim off all the fat very clean, take out the spice and herbs, put in a piece of butter mixed with flour, boil it up till it is thick and smooth; season it with a little Cayan pepper, put in the breast of venison, make it hot, put it into a hot dish, and pour the sauce over it; garnish with lemon and beet-root, with hot currant jelly in a boat.

Breast of Venison another Way.

Take a breast of venison, skin and bone it, cut it into four pieces, pepper, salt, and flour it, put a quarter of a pound of butter into a pan, make it hot, and fry the venison brown; then put in a pint of gravy, half a pint of red wine, four shallots chopped fine, seasoned with a little beaten mace, Cayan pepper and salt, cover it close, stew it gently over a slow fire till it is tender, and skim it well; then put it into a hot dish, and garnish with lemon, with hot currant jelly in a boat.

Knuckle of Veal.

Take a knuckle of veal, break the shank, and wash it very clean; lay three or four wooden skewers at the bottom of a stew-pan, with two quarts of water, a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, a little cloves, mace, and whole pepper, a crust of bread, and some salt, cover it close, and as soon as the scum rises skim it well, and stew it gently for two hours; when done, put it into a deep dish, and strain the liquor over it.

Knuckle of Veal with Rice.

Break the shank of a knuckle of veal, wash it clean, and put it into a pot with four quarts of water; when it boils skim it clear, and put in a bundle of sweet herbs, some cloves, mace, and all-spice tied [Page] in a muslin rag, and season it with salt to your liking; put in a pound of whole rice well washed and picked, cover it close, stew it two hours, and give it a stir round often to keep the meat and rice from sticking; when done, put it into a deep dish, take out the sweet herbs and spice, and pour the rice and broth over it.

Calf or Lamb's Head.

Take a calf or lamb's head, and with a sharp-pointed knife take all the meat clean off the bones, cut out the tongue, lay it in water for one hour to soak out the blood, take out the brains and lay them in water likewise▪ take two pounds of veal and a pound of beef s [...]it, chop them together, with the crumb of a penny loaf, some sweet herbs, parsley, and lemon-peel shred fine, season it with grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, mix it altogether with the yolks of four eggs, but save out enough to make twenty small balls; wash the head clean, and wipe it dry with a cloth, put the force-meat in the inside and close it together, tie it round with pack-thread, put it into a stew-pan, with two quarts of gravy, half a pint of white wine, and a bundle of sweet herbs, cover it close, and stew it gently: in the mean time boil the tongue till it is tender peel it, and cut it into thin slices; wash out the brains and chop them fine, with a little parsley and lemon-peel cut fine, a little grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, mixed up with the yolks of two eggs and a spoonful of flour; have a pan of hot dripping, and with a spoon drop them in, and fry them in drops of a fine brown, put them on a sieve to drain, fry the balls, and keep them both hot, and a dozen oysters fried; when the head i [...] done take it up, untie it, put it in a dish, and cover it over to keep it hot; skim the gravy clea [...], put in a piece of butter mixed with flour, the tongue cut in slices, some truffles and morels, and a gill of pickled mushrooms, boil all up till it is thick and smooth, season it to your palate, take out the sweet herbs pour the sauce over the [Page] head, put the fried oysters upon it, the balls round it, and garnish with the fried brains.

Fillet of Veal.

Take the fillet of a cow calf, take out the bone, and make the following stuffing: take half a pound of lean veal, half a pound of beef or veal suet, the crumb of a penny loaf, chop them all well together, with some sweet herbs, parsley, and lemon-peel shred [...], a little grated nutmeg, and season with pepper and salt, mix it up with the yolks of two eggs, and stuff the fillet under the udder and in the middle, skewer it up and half roast it; then take it up and put it into a deep stew-pan, with three pints of gravy, a gill of white wine, a bundle of sweet herbs, and a little beaten mace, cover it close and stew it for two hours; take out the fillet and sweet herbs, put the fillet in a dish before the fire to keep hot, skim the fat off the gravy, put a piece of butter into a stew-pan, melt it, and put in a spoonful of flour, stir it till it is smooth, then by degrees pour in the gravy, stir it till it boils and is smooth, then put in some pickled mushrooms, truffles, morels, and artichoke bottoms cut into pieces, season it with Cayon pepper and salt to your liking, and the juice of half a lemon, boil it up five minutes, and skim it free from fat; put the fillet into a clean hot dish, pour the sauce over it, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Veal and Peas.

Take about four pounds of a breast of veal, cut it into small square pieces, and flour it; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stew-pan, put in the veal, and fry it of a light brown; then pour in three pints of boiling water, two or three onions chopped fine, two cabbage lettuces cut fine, and a quart of old green peas, season it with pepper and salt, stew it two hours, and skim it clean; when done, put the [Page] veal into a dish, the peas, &c. over it, and garnish with lemon.

Turkey stewed brown.

Take a turkey and truss it as for boiling, fill the bread and inside with force-meat, lard the breast, and half roast it; then take it up, put it into a deep stew-pan that will just hold it, and put in as much gravy as will cover it, a gill of white wine, some whole pepper, cloves, and mace tied in a rag, and a bundle of sweet herbs, cover it close, and stew it gently for one hour; then take up the turkey, and keep it hot before the fire: put a little butter in a stew-pan, melt it, and put in a spoonful of flour, stir it till it is smooth, strain the gravy to it, and boil it well till there is about a pint; put the turkey in a hot dish, pour the sauce over it, and garnish with lemon and fried oysters.

You may fill half a dozen little French rolls, or oyster loaves, with stewed oysters, and put them round, and garnish with lemon.

Another Way.

Take your turkey, draw it, and with a small-pointed knife bone it, but mind you do not cut the skin on the back, then fill it with the following force-meat: take the breast of a fowl, half a pound of lean veal, the flesh of two pigeons, with a pound of pickled tongue peeled, chop them altogether, then beat them in a mortar, with the marrow of a beef-bone, or half a pound of veal kidney-suet, season it with beaten cloves, mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt, mix it all well together with the yolks of two eggs, fill the turkey. singe and flour it; put a pound of butter in a stew-pan and fry it of a fine brown; put four wooden skewers at the bottom of a stew-pan, just big enough to hold it and to keep it from sticking, put on the turkey, with a quart of good gravy, half a pint of white wine, a bundle of sweet herbs, some cloves, mace, and all-spice tied in a rag, half a [Page] pint of fresh mushrooms, an ounce of truffles and morels, a piece of butter rolled in flour, seasoned with Cayan pepper and salt, cover it close, and stew it for one hour and a half; then take up the turkey and put it into a hot dish, take out the sweet herbs and spice, skim the sauce well, and pour it over the turkey; put six oyster loaves, with stewed oysters in them, round it, and garnish with lemon.

Turkey with Cellery.

Truss a turkey as for boiling, singe it, put four skewers at the bottom of a stew-pan, put in the turkey, with a quart of gravy, half a pint of white wine, season it with pepper and salt, a little beaten cloves and mace; take the white part of a dozen heads of cellery, cut it about one inch long, wash it very clean, and put it in, cover the pan close and stew it gently for one hour; then uncover it, put in a spoonful of catchup, a piece of butter rolled in flour, and stew it half an hour longer; then take out the turkey and put it in a hot dish, skim off the [...]at, and pour the sauce over it; garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Fowl.

Truss a fowl as for boiling, singe it, and stuff it with veal force-meat, put it into a stew-pan, with a pint and a half of gravy, a glass of white wine, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little beaten cloves, mace, pepper, and salt, cover it close, and stew it half an hour; then put in a piece of butter as big as a walnut mixed with flour, a gill of mushrooms, a few truffles and morels washed clean, cover it, and stew it fifteen minutes longer; then take out the fowl, put it in a dish, take out the sweet herbs, skim the sauce well, and pour i [...] over the fowl; garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Fowl with Cellery.

Take a large fowl and bone it in the following [Page] manner: take a small-pointed knife and begin at the breast, and carefully take all the flesh off the bones, but leave on the rump, then fill it with veal force-meat, singe it, and put it into a stew-pan. with a quart of gravy, a bundle of sweet herbs, half a pint of white wine, season it with beaten cloves, mace, pepper, and salt; wash the white part of half a dozen heads of cellery very clean, cut them one inch long, put them in, cover them close, and stew them half an hour very gently; take off the cover, and put in a piece of butter mixed with flour, shake it round, and stew it very gently half an hour longer; then take out the fowl and put it in a hot dish, take out the sweet herbs, skim the sauce well, and pour it over the fowl; garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Fowl with Rice.

Truss a fowl as for boiling, put it into a stew-pan with a quart of water, a bundle of sweet herbs, season it with a little beaten cloves and mace, some pepper and salt, cover it close and stew it half an hour: in the mean time boil four ounces of rice in a quart of water till it is tender, strain it off, put it to the fowl, and stew it for fifteen minutes longer very gently, but take care it does not stick; then put the fowl in a hot dish, take out the sweet herbs, and put the rice and sauce over it.

You may use gravy instead of water if you want it rich.

Fowl or Chicken the Dutch Way.

Take a fowl or chicken, truss it as for boiling, and singe it; beat four cloves, four blades of mace, and half a nutmeg fine, chop half a handful of parsley fine, with some pepper and salt, mix them together, and put it in the inside of the fowl or chicken, flour it all over, put it into a stew-pan, and clarify as much fresh butter as will cover it, stew it gently for one hour, then put it into a China bowl with the butter, and send it up hot.

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Chickens.

Draw two chickens, singe and wash them clean, cut them in quarters, put them in a stew-pan, with half a pint of white gravy, half a pint of white wine, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little cloves and mace beat fine, a little pepper and salt, with a piece of butter rolled in flour, cover them close, and stew them half an hour; then take out the sweet herbs, skim them clean, give them a stew up, put the chickens into a hot dish, pour the same over them, and garnish with lemon.

You may put mushrooms, truffles and morels, or artichoke bottoms, if you please.

Chickens another Way

Take two chickens, draw and singe them, wash them very clean, and boil them ten minutes: then take them up in a pewter dish, and cut them up, separating every joint, and take out the breastbones; if you have a silver dish and cover put them in, and the liquor that comes from them; if it is not enough add a gill of the liquor they were boiled in, with a little beaten mace and salt, cover them close, and stew them gently over a stove or chaffing dish of coals for ten minutes, and send them to table in the same dish.

If you have not a silver dish, make use of a pewter one, with another to cover it.

Chickens the Scotch Way.

Take two chickens, draw and singe them, wash them very clean, cut them in quarters, dry them with a clean cloth, put them into a stew-pan, and just cover them with water, with a bundle of parsley, a little beaten mace and salt, cover them close, and stew them half an hour; take out the bundle of parsley, chop half a handful of parsley fine, beat up six eggs, whites and all, skim the chickens, put in the parsley and eggs, keep them stirring till thick, but [Page] do not let them boil, then put them into a deep dish, and send them up hot.

Pheasant.

Pick, draw, and truss the pheasant with the head on, singe it, put it into a stew-pan, with a pint of veal gravy, half a pint of white wine, four shallots chopped fine, seasoned with beaten mace. Cayan pepper and salt, cover it close, and stew it half an hour; then have ready some truffles and morels, two artichoke bottoms blanched and cut into pieces, a dozen chesnuts boiled and peeled, a piece of butter rolled in flour, with the juice of half a lemon, cover it over, stew it ten minutes, and skim it clean; then put the pheasant into the dish, pour the sauce over it, and garnish with force-meat balls fried and cut in two.

A black-legged fowl, trussed like a pheasant, is a good substitute for a pheasant if you have none, Partridges are stewed the same way.

Pigeons.

Take five or six pigeons, pick and draw them, and truss them as for roasting; make a seasoning with a little beaten cloves, mace, pepper and salt, some parsley and sweet herbs shred fine, mix it up with a little butter, put it in the inside of them, tie up the necks and vents, and half roast them; cut off the feet, put them into a stew-pan, with a pint of gravy, a gill of white wine, a little beaten cloves, mace, pepper and salt, a bundle of sweet herbs, and two shallots chopped fine, cover them close, and stew them gently for half an hour; [...] take out the sweet herbs and put in a piece of butter mixed with flour, a gill of pickled mushrooms, a few truffles and morels washed clean, and one artichoke bottom cut into pieces, stew them till they are thick and smooth, skim them clean, and squeeze in the juice of half a [Page] lemon; then put them into a hot dish, the sauce all over them, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

You may stew cold roast pigeons the same way, only season the inside.

Geese Giblets.

Take two pair of giblets, scald and pick them clean, cut the neck in three, split the head, cut the pinions in two, the gizzard in four, and the feet in two, wash them very clean, put them in a stew-pan, with a quart of veal broth, a bundle of sweet herbs, some cloves, mace, and all-spice tied in a rag, seasoned with pepper and salt, put them over a gentle fire, and stew them till the giblets are tender; take out the spice and sweet herbs, skim them very clean, put in about two ounces of butter mixed with flour, shake them round till the butter is melted, then mix half a pint of cream with the yolks of two eggs, grate in a little nutmeg, pour it to the giblets, keep them stirring one way till they are thick and smooth, put them into a hot dish, and garnish with sippets.

Ducks Giblets.

Scald three pair of ducks giblets, wash them very clean, cut them into pieces, and put them into a stew-pan, with three pints of water, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little beaten cloves, mace, and a little salt, cover them close, and stew them gently till they are tender; mix two ounces of butter with flour and put in, take out the sweet herbs, boil them up till they are moderately thick, and skim it well; chop half a handful of parsley and six green onions very fine, put them in, and boil them up five minutes then send them in a hot deep dish. You may put in a little Cayan pepper if you like them high seasoned.

Hare.

Case the hare, cut it into pieces, and wash it very clean; put it into a stew pan, with a quart of water, a pint of red wine, an onion stuck with cloves, [Page] a bundle of sweet herbs, four blades of mace, and a few pepper corns; cover it, and when the skum rises skim it clean, cover it again, and stew it gently till the hare is tender, then with a fork take out the hare, and strain the gravy through a sieve; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stew-pan, melt it, and put a large spoonful of flour in, stir it till it is smooth, then by degrees pour the gravy in and stir it likewise, then put in the hare, a spoonful of ketchup, season it with Cayan pepper and salt to your palate, give it a toss or two, put it into a hot dish, and garnish with fried sippets.

You may lard some pieces if you like it, or you may cut the hare in two, stuff the belly, roast the hind quarters, and stew the fore quarters as above, put the roast in the middle of the dish and the stewed round.

Jugged Hare.

Case your hare and cut it into small pieces, lard some of the best pieces with bacon, put it into a jug or earthen jar, with half a pint of red wine, a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion stuck with cloves, a few shallots chopped fine, season it with Cayan pepper and salt, tie it close with coarse paper, put it into a pot of water just up to the neck, and boil it for three hours; then take it up and put it into a tureen or deep soup-dish, take out the onion and herbs, and [...]end it to table hot.

You may omit the larding if you do not approve of it.

Calf's Feet.

Take out the large bones of two calf's feet, split them in two, put them in a stew-pan, and cover them with water, a bundle of sweet herbs, three or four blades of mace, and a little salt, cover them close, and stew them very gently till they are tender; take out the herbs and skim them clean, chop half a handful of parsley very fine and put in, boil them [Page] up five minutes, lay some sippets at the bottom of a deep dish, put in the feet, and pour the liquor over them.

Calf's Head hashed brown.

Take a calf [...] head, take out the brains, wash it very clean, a [...]il it till it is nearly enough; then take it up, cut [...]t the tongue, peel it, and when it is all cold cut the tongue and half the head in thin slices; take the other half, and carefully take all the meat off the bones whole, notch it across, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, and sprinkle breadcrumbs, sweet herbs, parsley, lemon-peel chopped fine, pepper, s [...]lt, and a little grated nutmeg, mixed altogether and put over it, and put it before the fire to brown; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stew-pan, melt it, then put in two spoonsful of flour, stir it till it is smooth, then put in a quart of good brown gravy, half a pint of white wine, six shallots chopped fine, two spoonsful of ketchup, a bundle of sweet herbs, seasoned with a little beaten mace, Cayan pepper and salt, boil it up for ten minutes, and then strain it off; put it into a stew-pan again, with the hash, a gill of pickled mushrooms, an ounce of truffles and morels boiled and washed well, two artichoke bottoms cut into eight pieces, a sweetbread boiled tender, and cut into pieces, and a dozen oysters blanched, stew it altogether gently for a quarter of an hour, and squeeze in the juice of a lemon: in the mean time wash the brains well and boil them, cut them into little square pieces, dip them into ale b [...]tter, and fry them of a fine brown in a pan of hot fat, and a dozen large oysters fried in the same manner; put them on a sieve before the fire to drain, (mind that the cheek is nice and brown) put the hash into a hot dish, the cheek at the top, and garnish with the fried brains and oysters.

If you think proper you may put in a few force-meat and egg balls.

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Calf's Head hashed white.

Wash and boil it as before directed, and cut it up in the same manner; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stew-pan, melt it, and put two spoonsful of flour in, stir it till it is smooth, and put in a quart of veal broth, then put in the hash, with a gill of mushrooms, two artichoke bottoms cut in pieces, a sweatbread boiled and cut in pieces, season it with Cayan pepper and salt, and stew it for fifteen minutes; mix the yolks of two eggs with half a pint of cream, and grate in half a nutmeg, put it in, and keep it shaking round till it is thick and smooth; squeeze in half a lemon, shake it round, put it into a hot dish, with the brown head at top, and garnish with the fried brains and oysters.

Calf's Heart hashed.

After you have roasted the calf's heart cut it into thin slices, put half a pint of gravy into a stew-pan, a glass of white wine, a little butter mixed with flour, a little lemon peel shred fine, and season it with pepper and salt; boil it up, then put the heart in, and toss it up till it is quite hot; put it into a hot dish, and garnish with sippets.

Hashed Veal.

Take some cold veal, cut it into thin slices about as large as a crown piece, put it into a stew-pan, with some good gravy, a spoonful of ketchup, a little butter mixed with flour, some lemon-peel shred fine, and a little pepper and salt; make it thoroughly hot, put it into a hot dish, and garnish with sippets.

Minced Veal.

Cut some cold veal into slices, and then into little square bits, but do not chop it, put it into a stew-pan, with a little white gravy, some cream according to the quantity, some butter mixed with flour, enough [Page] to thicken it, some lemon-peel shred fine, a little pepper and salt, and a tea spoonful of lemon pickle, keep it shaking over a clear fire till it is very hot, but do not let it boil above a minute, as that will make the veal hard; put some sippets at the bottom of the dish, pour the mince into it, and put sippets all round the dish.

Hashed Hare.

Take some hare after it has been roasted, and cut it into small pieces with some of the stuffing, put half a pint of gravy into a stew-pan, the same quantity of red wine, two or three shallots shred fine, a piece of butter mixed with flour, Cayan pepper and salt to your palate, boil it up, then put in the hare, and make it thoroughly hot, put it into a hot dish, and garnish with lemon and beet-root, or toasted sippets.

Hashed Venison.

Cut some cold haunch or neck of venison into thin slices, put a little of its own gravy, with half a pint of red wine, into a stew-pan, four shallots chopped very fine, two spoonsful of ketchup, a little butter rolled in flour, some pepper and salt, boil it up, and then put in the venison; make it as hot as you can, but be sure you do not let it boil above a minute or two, put it into a hot dish, with sippets all round.

Haunch or neck of mutton done the same way eats very fine.

Hashed Beef.

Cut some cold roast beef into very thin slices, put a pint of gravy into a stew-pan, with four shallots chopped fine, a little butter mixed with flour, a spoonful of walnut pickle, some pepper and salt, and boil it up; then put in the beef, with four pickled girkins cut in thin slices, make it very hot, and put it into a hot dish, with sippets all round.

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Hashed Mutton.

Take some cold mutton, and with a sharp knife cut it into a thin slices, put the bones into a stew-pan, with an onion chopped fine, a pint of water, and boil it for a quarter of an hour; strain it into a stew-pan, put in a spoonful of browning, the same of ketchup, two or three shallots chopped fine, some pepper and salt to your liking, and a little butter mixed with flour, boil it up, then put in the mutton, with some capers chopped and some pickled girkins cut thin, boil it up two or three minutes, then put it into a hot dish, with toasted sippets round it.

If you have not time to boil the bones, make use of [...]ome good gravy instead, but always be sure to save its own natural gravy if you can, as that always makes the hash better.

Wild Fowl hashed.

Cut your cold wild fowl into small pieces, put a gill of gravy into a stew-pan, as much red wine, a spoonful of ketchup, a little onion or shallot chopped fine, a little butter mixed with flour, some pepper and salt, and the juice of half a lemon, put in the fowl, and boil it up for five minutes; then put it into a hot dish, and garnish with lemon or beet-root.

Turkey or Fowl hashed.

Cut the breast of a turkey or fowl into thin slices cut the legs off, score them, pepper and salt them and broil them of a nice brown; put half a pint of gravy into a stew-pan, with a little butter mixed with flour, a spoonful of ketchup, some pepper and salt, a little lemon-peel shred fine, put in the meat, and shake it over a clear fire till it is thoroughly hot; then put it into a hot dish, with toasted sippets round it, and the legs at top.

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Woodcocks or snipes hashed.

Take the trails out of the woodcocks or snipes, half roast them, bruise the trails, and put them into a stew-pan, with a little gravy, a glass of red wine, a little shallot chopped fine, and a little pepper and salt, cut the birds in quarters, put them in, and stew them about five minutes; cut a thin toast, toast it on both sides and butter it, cut it in quarters; lay it in a hot dish, and put the woodcocks or snipes on it, with the sauce over them.

Pheasants and Partridges hashed.

When the birds are roasted cut them up as for eating, put half a pint of good gravy into a stew-pan, a glass of white wine, two shallots chopped fine, a little butter mixed with flour, some pepper and salt, and a spoonful of ketchup, boil it up, then put in the birds, put them over a clear fire, and make them hot, but take care they do not boil above a minute, as that will make them hard; put them in a dish, and garnish with lemon.

Pigs Petty To [...]s.

Put them into a sauce-pan, with a pint of water, a blade of mace, a little whole pepper and an onion, boil them ten minutes; take out the liver, lights, and heart, boil the feet till they are tender, mince the liver, &c. grate a little nutmeg over it, put it into a stew-pan, and strain the liquor to it; shred a little lemon-peel very fine and put in▪ with a little pepper and salt, and a little butter mixed with flour▪ boil it up▪ and with a spoon stir it till it is thick and smooth, put the mince in the dish, split the feet in two, and put them over it; garnish with toasted sippets

CHAP. XI.
MADE DISHES.

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Proper Rules to be observed in Made Dishes.

THIS being one of the most important chapters in this book, it is proper to give the young learners some rules by which to regulate their conduct. As copper vessels are the best to make all kinds of made dishes in, you must be careful that they are well tinned and kept clean from grease or gri [...]iness. In all brown dishes be sure to skim the fat clean off, as nothing looks so disagreeable as to see the fat floating at the top; and when you use wine or anchovy. put it in some time before your dish is ready, to take the rawness off, as nothing injures the reputation of a made dish worse than raw wine or anchovy; and be careful that it is of a fine brown and a proper thickness: let none of the ingredients have any predominant taste more than another, which must depend on the judicious manner you mix the various articles you make use of. In white dishes and fri [...]sees, have all your ingredients well stewed and mixed together, and your sauce of a proper thickness before you put in eggs or cream, as neither will contribute much to thicken it when you have put them in. Do not put your stew-pan upon the fire, but hold it a proper height over it, and keep shaking it one way till it is thick and smooth, as that will prevent it from curdling or sticking to the bottom of the pan, and keep it free from lumps; be careful never to let it boil. When you dish it up take the meat and ingredients out with a fish-slice, strain the [Page] sauce over it, as that will prevent small bits of meat mixing with the sauce, and leave it clear and smooth. Never put any fried force-meat balls into any sauce, but put them on a sieve to drain and keep hot before the fire, till your dish is dished; then put them in, as boiling them in the sauce softens them, and makes them have a greasy appearance. In almost every made dish you may put in what you think proper, to enlarge it and make it good; such as sweetbreads, ox palates boiled tender, fresh, pickled, or dried mushrooms, cockscombs, truffles, morels, artichoke bottoms, either fresh, boiled, pickled, or dried ones, softened in warm water and cut in four pieces, asparagus tops, &c. as you can get them, or they are in season; force-meat balls, egg balls, or the yolks of hard eggs. The best things to give a tartness to sauce is, lemon juice, elder vinegar, or mushroom pickle. In the use of Cayan pepper, it is best to put but a little in at first, as it is easy to put in more if your sauce requires any; and never put any lemon or four into any white sauce, till the moment before you put it into the dish. When you use flour and butter, mix it together on the back of a trencher, or a clean board, with a knife till it is smooth, as that will prevent its being lumpy when you put it into the sauce.

A brown Cullis.

Put half a pound of butter into a stew-pan, melt it, and put four spoonsful of flour in, stir it round till it is smooth, then put in two quarts of good gravy, a pint of white wine, six shallots chopped fine, a bundle of sweet herbs, a quarter of an ounce of cloves and mace, a little all-spice, some essence of ham, if you have it, or half a pound of lean ham cut in very small bits, and a lemon cut in two, stir it well round, and stew it gently for one hour; season it with Cayan pepper and salt, then rub it through a fine sieve, and keep it for use.

[Page] If you have any fresh mushrooms cut them small and put in.

A white Cullis.

Put half a pound of butter into a stew-pan, melt it, put in four spoonsful of flour, and stir it till it is smooth; then pour in three pints of veal gravy, and stir till it boils: cut a pound of lean ham in very little bits, six shallots chopped fine, a bundle of sweet herbs▪ some fresh mushrooms chopped, and six blades of mace, put these all in, stew it gently a quarter of an hour, and skim off the fat; then put in a quart [...] new milk, stir it well round, and boil it gently [...] half an hour longer; season it with Cayan pepper and salt. rub it through a fine sieve, then it will be cady for use.

A Be [...]mell,

Take a pound of lean ham, shred it very fine, put it at the bottom of a stew-pan, two pounds of lean veal cut in small pieces, and a small fowl cut in pieces, lay them over the ham, an onion cut small, six shallots shred small▪ the white part of two heads of cellery, a bundle of sweet herbs, six blades of mace, and a few fresh mushrooms cut small▪ lay them over the meat, put in half a pint of veal broth or water, cover it close put it over a [...]low fire, and swe [...]t it gently for [...] an hour, but take care it does not stick or burn, as that will spoil it; then put in two quarts of new milk, stir it round, stew it gently for half an hour, mix half a pint of milk with two spoonsful of flour very smooth and put in, stir it well round, bruise a little Cayan pepper very fine and put in, with salt to season it; stew it till you find it as good as you would have it, then rub it through a fine sieve or a tammy, and it will be fit for use.

Rump of Beef a la Doube.

Take a rump of beef and boat it, put it into a dish [Page] take half a pint of white wine, half a pint of vinegar, some bay loaves, six shallots, an onion, a bundle of sweet herbs, some cloves, mace, and all-spice, boil them altogether for five minutes, and pour it over the beef; turn it often, and with a spoon put the liquor over it, and let it lay all night; in the morning take it out, cut some fat bacon into long pieces about a quarter of an inch square, chop a handful of parsley, some sweet herbs, six shallots, a head or two of garlick very fine, six blades of mace, twelve cloves, twelve corns of all-spice, and half a nutmeg beat very fine, mix them altogether, withsome pepper and salt, and a glass of red wine, put the bacon to them, and roll it about till it has taken up all the ingredients; then with a small pointed knife make holes aslant through the beef▪ and put in the bacon, &c. or with a large larding-pin; put the beef into a long stew-pan, with about two pounds of fat bacon cut it slices, some beef-suet, a large bundle of sweet herbs, two heads of garlick, a dozen bay leaves, and some salt, just cover it with water, cover it close, and stew it gently for four hours; in the mean time cut two carrots and three or four turneps into any shape you please or fancy, two dozen button onions, and the white part of four heads of cellery, boil them all till they are tender, and put them into a quart of brown cullis; take out the beef, put it into a dish, pour the sauce over it, and garnish with lemon and beef-root, or fried oysters, or fried sippets.

You may dress a leg of mutton piece, or part of a buttock the same way.

Rump of Beef a la Braize.

Prepare a rump of beef the same as for a la doube, cut some rashers of bacon and lay them at the bottom of a stew-pan, put in the beef, with two quarts of gravy, one of red wine, six shallots, two heads of garlick chopped fine, six lay leaves, a little cloves, mace, all-spice, and whole pepper, put some slices of [...]at bacon at the top, cover it close, put it over a [Page] flow fire, with a charcoal fire at the top, and braize it gently for four hours; then take up the beef, strain the gravy through a sieve, and skim off all the fat, put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stew-pan, melt it, and then put in two large spoonsful of flour, stir it till it is smooth, then by degrees pour in the gravy, put in some truffles and morels, half a pint of fresh mushrooms first stewed, or a gill of pickled ones, a sweetbread cut in pieces, two artichoke bottoms cut in pieces, some force-meat balls boiled, and an ox-palate boiled tender and cut in long slips, boil it up, season it with Cayan pepper moderately high, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and boil it up for ten minutes; put your beef in to make it hot, then put it into a deep dish, pour the sauce all over it, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

A rolled Rump of Beef.

Take a rump of beef, cut it from the bones, and slit it in two from top to bottom; take about two pounds of the thick end, chop it fine, with a pound of beef-suet, a pound of lean ham, beat it well in a mortar, chop some parsley, sweet herbs, a little lemon-peel, and four shallots fine, and put in, season it with pepper and salt, a little beaten mace and grated nutmeg, put them in, with the crumb of a penny loaf rubbed through a cullender, beat them well together, and mix them up with the yolks of four eggs, put it on the beef, roll it up tight, stick a skewer through, and tie it with packthread; put some slices of bacon at the bottom of a deep stew-pan, put the meat upon it, with a bundle of sweet herbs, six shallots, six bay leaves, a little cloves, mace, all-spice, and a pint of red wine, just cover the beef with water, cover it close and stew it till it is tender, which you may know by running a skewer into the meat; then take it out, rub the top over with the yolk of an egg▪ sprinkle bread-crumbs over it, put it before the fire, and make it of a fine brown: in the mean time strain the gravy through a sieve, skin [Page] off the fat, put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stew-pan, melt it, and put in two large spoonsful of flour, stir it till it is smooth, then pour the gravy in, a spoonful of ketchup, and one of browning, season it with Cayan pepper and salt, boil it up well till it is thick and rich, then put in some truffles and morels, a gill of pickled mushrooms, an ox-palate boiled tender and cut in pieces, with a spoonful of elder vinegar; put the beef into a deep dish, and garnish with fried sippets.

Surloin of Beef in Epigram.

Roast a surloin of beef, take it off the spit, raise the skin very carefully of the back, cut all the lean out, except at the ends, which you must leave so as to hold the following hash: (but you must put the surloin to the fire to keep hot) cut the meat up, and hash it in the same manner as directed in the receipt to the surloin and carefully draw the skin over it put it in for hashed beef, in the chapter for hashes; put it into a hot dish, and garnish with horse-radish. You may raise up the fat in the inside and cut out the lean, hash it, put it in again, put the fat over it, and send the inside uppermost in the dish.

The Inside of a Surloin of Beef forced.

Take a surloin of beef, and with a sharp knife raise up the fat, cut all the lean out close to the bone, chop it small, with a pound of beef-suet, about as many crumbs of bread, some parsley, sweet herbs, lemon-peel, and two shallots chopped fine, seasoned with pepper, salt, and half a nutmeg grated; mix it up with the yolks of three eggs, put it in the inside, put the fat over it, skewer it down tight, paper it, put it on a spit, and roast it four hours; then unpaper it, froth it up, and put it into the dish inside uppermost, with some good gravy in the dish, and garnish with horse-radish.

To force a Rump of Beef.

Chop the large bone of the thick end of a rump [Page] of beef, carefully raise the skin up, and cut the lean [...]ut of the middle; make a force meat the same as for the surloin, put it in the place again, and skewer it on tight; tie it round with packthread to keep in the force-meat, paper it, spit it, and roast it three hours if a large one, a small one two hours and a half; then take off the paper, froth it up, take it off the spit, take off the packthread, and pull the skewers out; boil half a pint of red wine, with four shallots chopped small, put it in the dish, then put in the beef, and garnish with horse-radish.

Rump of Beef in Epigram.

Spit and roast a fine rump of beef, take it off the spit, with a sharp knife carefully raise up the skin, cut the meat out of the middle, and put the rest to the fire to keep hot; hash the meat that you cut out, as the receipt directs in the chapter for hashes, put it into the place you cut it out of, and carefully put on the skin, that it may not be perceived where it was taken from; put it into a hot dish, with a little good gravy under it, and garnish with horse radish.

Beef a la Mode.

Take half a buttock of beef or a log of mutton piece, take out the bone, or a clod, and take out the bone, cut fat bacon, and mix it with spice and herbs, the same as for beef a la doube, put it into the beef the same way put it into a pot, cover it with water and a pint of white wine, chop four large onions and six cloves of garlick very fine and put in, with a dozen bay leaves, a handful of champinions, or a pint of fresh mushrooms, a tea spoonful of Cayan pepper, some salt, a spoonful of vinegar strew about [...]ree handful of bread raspings sifted fine over all, cover the pot close, and stew it gently for six hours, or according to the size of the piece, [Page] if a large piece eight hours; then take out the beef, put it into a deep dish, cover it over, and set it over boiling water to keep it hot; strain the gravy through a sieve, pick out the champinions or mushrooms, skim all the fat clean off the gravy, put it into the pot again, boil it up, and if it wants any more seasoning, season it to your liking; (it should be pretty high seasoned) then pour the gravy over the beef, or you may cut the beef in slices and put it in a dish, with the gravy over it. It eats very well when cold, cut in slices with some of the gravy over it; for when it is cold the gravy will be of a strong jelly, and garnish the cold with parsley.

Beef a la Mode in Pieces,

Take as much beef as you will want, and cut it in pieces of about two pounds each, lard them with bacon in the same manner as the other, fry the beef brown in fresh butter, drain it from the fat, put it into a stew-pan that will just hold it, cover it with gravy and red wine, six shallots, four blades of garlick chopped fine, two onions chopped fine, a sprig of bay leaves, season it with Cayan pepper and salt, cover it close, and stew it gently till the beef is tender; then skim it well, and if it wants any more seasoning put it in, lay the meat in a deep dish and pour the sauce over it.

You may put in champinions or fresh mushrooms if you please.

Beef Escarlot.

Take a piece of brisket of beef of about ten pounds, salt it with two ounces of bay salt, one ounce of salt-petre, one ounce of sal prunella, half a pound of coarse sugar, a pound of common salt, mixed altogether, lay it in an earthen pan, and turn it every day for a fortnight; then wash it very clean, tie it up with packthread, and boil it five hours; cut a red cabbage very fine across and stew it in gravy, thicken it with butter rolled in flour, and season it [Page] with pepper and salt; put the cabbage in the dish, untie the beef and put on it, with peas pudding and greens in separate dishes, garnished with boiled carrot. It is very fine cold, cut in thin slices, and garnished with carrot and parsley.

Beef a la Royale.

Take a piece of a surloin about twelve pounds, a small rump or a piece of brisket, bone it, and make holes with a knife about an inch from one another, fill one hole with fat bacon, another with chopped oysters, another with parsley shred fine, till the whole is filled, season it with nutmeg, mace, cloves and all-spice beat fine, put it into a pot just big enough to hold it, and just cover it with red wine and water, with some bay leaves, cover it close, and stew it gently till it is tender; then take up the beef, put it into a deep dish, cover it up, and keep it hot; strain the gravy through a sieve, and skim off all the fat clean; put a piece of butter into a stew-pan, melt it, put in two spoonsful of flour and stir it till it is smooth; then pour the gravy in, put in a spoonful of browning, a spoonful of ketchup, the same of vinegar, and stew it till it is thick and good; then put in an ox-palate boiled tender, one ounce of truffles and morels, give them a boil up, season pretty high with Cayan pepper, and pour the sauce over the meat, with some fried force-meat balls round, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

It eats very fine cold, cut into thin slices, and garnished with parsley.

Beef Tremblongue.

Take about eight or ten pounds of the fat end of a brisket of beef, tie it up tight with packthread, put it into a large pot of water, and boil it six hours very gently; season the water with a handful of all-spice, some salt, some onions, leeks, carrots, and turneps; take two carrots, pare them, cut them about half an inch long, and with an apple-corer cut [Page] them out, pare half a dozen middle-fixed turneps, and with a scoop cut them out round as big as a nutmeg, peel two dozen small button onions, and cut the white part of four heads of cellery about half an inch long, wash them all clean, and boil them, but not too much; put them into a quart of good brown cullis, and give them a boil up a few minutes; take the beef up, and take out all the bones you can, put it into a dish, and pour the sauce over it; garnish with carrots cut in shapes and a few sprigs of greens; or the following sauce will do: chop a handful of parsley▪ an onion▪ six pickled cucumbers, one walnut, and a gill of capers, put them into a pint of brown cullis, boil them up for ten minutes, and put them over the meat, with the same garnish.

Be sure to save the liquor the beef was boiled in, as that will help to make your soups good the next day.

Beef Olives.

Cut three steaks off a rump of beef as square as you can, about ten inches long and half an inch thick, rub the yolk of an egg over them, cut three thin slices of fat bacon as wide as the beef, and about three parts as long, put it on the steaks, rub it over with the yolks of eggs, and put some good veal force-meat about a quarter of an inch thick on the bacon, rub it over with the yolks of eggs, roll it up tight, and tie it with packthread, then rub it over with egg, and sprinkle crumbs of bread on it; have a large pan of beef dripping boiling hot, put them in and fry them of a fine brown, put them on a sieve to drain the fat off, then put them into a stew-pan, with a quart of brown cullis and half a pint of fresh mushrooms, cover them close and stew them gently for one hour, skim the fat off, and put in some truffles and morels boiled and washed well, an ox-palate boiled tender and cut in pieces, give them a toss up, then take out the olives, untie them, lay them in a dish, pour the sauce over, with some fried force meat [Page] balls round them, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Herrico of Beef Tails.

Take three beef tails, cut them into pieces about four inches long, put them into a stew-pan, with a pound of fat bacon cut small, a pound of beef-suet cut in pieces, a handful of all-spice, six bay leaves, and a quart of water, cover them close, and stew them for three hours: in the mean time pare a carrot and cu [...] it into dice, pare two turneps and cut into dice, peel two dozen button onions, and cut the white part of four heads of cellery half an inch long▪ wash them clean, boil them till they are tender, strain them off put them in a quart of brown cullis, and boil them up for five minutes; take out the tails and put them on a sieve to drain a moment or two, put them in a dish, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Beef Collops.

Take two pounds of any tender piece of beef with some fat, cut it into thin collops about as broad as a crown piece, pepper, salt, and flour them, chop an onion or four shallots fine, put two ounces of butter into a stew-pan, melt it, put in the collops and onions, or shallots▪ and fry them quick for five minutes; then put in a pint of good gravy, a little butter mixed with flour▪ a spoonful of walnut ketchup, cut four pickled cucumbers into thin slices, a walnut the same, and a few capers, with a tea spoonful of elder vinegar, a little pepper and salt▪ just give them a boil up, and put them into a hot dish; garnish with pickled cucumbers.

A Fillet of Beef.

Cut the fillet out of the inside of the surloin quite to the bone▪ season it with pepper, salt, and some grated nutmeg, roll it up tight, tie it with packthread▪ rub it over with some yolks of eggs, and sprinkle it over with bread-crumbs, put it on a spit [Page] and roast it of a fine brown; put some stewed cellery or stewed cucumbers in the dish, take up the fillet, untie it, and put it over the stewed cellery or cucumbers; garnish with horse-radish.

Neat's Tongue forced.

Boil a neat's tongue till it is tender, let it stand till it is cold, then slit it down the thick part, and cut the meat out of the inside, chop it small, with half a pound of beef-suet, and as much crumbs of bread, beat them well in a marble mortar, chop a little parsley, sweet herbs, and lemon-peel fine, and put in, season it with beaten mace, pepper, and salt, mix it up with the yolks of two eggs, rub the inside of the tongue with the yolks of eggs, put in the force-meat, close it together, and tie it with pack-thread, spit it, and stick it on both sides with cloves to your fancy, roast it one hour and baste it with butter; then put it into a hot dish, with good gravy, under it, and garnish with lemon and beet-root, with gallintine sauce in a boat.

Cow's Udder forced.

Take a young cow's udder, salt it for three or four days▪ then boil it till it is tender; let it stand till it is cold, and with a long sharp knife cut it at the thick end almost through to the thin end, that is, to split it, but not at the top, but from side to side; cut the inside out, chop it small, and mix it with some veal force-meat; rub the inside with the yolks of eggs, put in the force-meat, close it together, stick the top over with cloves to your fancy, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, and sprinkle bread-crumbs over it, then put it on an iron plate and bake it one hour and a half; then put it into a hot dish, with good gravy under it, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

The tongue and udder put into a dish together make a grand dish, with gallentine sauce in a boat.

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Beef streaks rolled.

Take three beef streaks cut half an inch thick, about ten inches long, and as square as you can, flat them with a cleaver, and make a force-meat thus: take a pound of lean veal, the flesh of large fowl, half a pound of lean ham, a pound of kidney-suet of a loin or veal, or beef-marrow, chop them fine altogether, and pound them well in a mortar; boil an ounce of truffles and morels very tender, chop them fine, with some parsley and sweet herbs, and put in, season it with beaten nutmeg, pepper and salt, and mix it up with the yolks of four eggs; rub the steaks with the yolks of eggs, put the forcemeat on them, roll them up tight, tie them with packthread, and flour them; put half a pound of butter into a stew-pan, and fry them of a fine brown all round▪ pour [...]ut the butter, and put in a pint of gravy, half a pint of red wine, four shallots chopped fine, half a pint of fresh mushrooms, some pepper and salt, a little butter mixed with flour, cover them close, and stew them one hour; then skim the fat off, put in a tea spoonful of elder vinegar, untie the rolls, lay them in a dish, pour the sauce over, and put fried force-meat balls round them; garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Loin of Veal in Epigram.

Take a fine loin of veal, but do not chop the chine bones, spit it, paper it all round, and roast it according to the size; when it is done take the paper off, and make it of a fine brown; then take it up, carefully raise the skin off the back, and cut out the lean, leaving both ends whole to hold the mince, and put it to the fire to keep hot; cut the lean, with the kidney and some of the kidney fat, into a fine mince, put it into a stew-pan, with a pint of veal gravy and the gravy that run from the veal, a little lemon-peel shred fine, some pepper and salt, a little grated nutmeg, a spoonful of ketchup, a gill of cream, and some butter mixed with flour, enough [Page] to thicken it: toss it till it is hot, then put it into the loin, draw the skin over, and if it does not quite cover it dredge it with flour, and brown it with a hot iron; then carefully put it into a hot dish, with gravy and butter under, and some toasted bread cut three corner ways round it; garnish with lemon and barberries.

Leg of Veal and Bacon in Disguise.

Cut off the shank-end of a small leg of veal, lard the upper side with bacon, and boil it with about two pounds of fine bacon; when it is done enough take it up, lay it in a dish, cut the bacon in slices and lay round i [...], sprinkle the bacon with some dried sage rubbed fine and pepper; have a large quantity of fried parsley and put over it, with Yorkshire green sauce in boats made thus: take two or three handsful of sorrel washed clean, pound it well in a mortar, squeeze out the juice, and sweeten it with fine powdered sugar.

Bombarded Veal.

Take a nice small fillet of a cow calf, cut out the bone, and some meat out of the middle, and make the following force-meat: take half a pound of lean veal, the veal, you cut out, half a pound of beef-suet, half a pound of fat bacon, and the crumb of a penny loaf soaked in cream, beat it well in a marble mortar, season it with beaten mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt, chop a little parsley, sweet herbs, and lemon-peel, and put in, mix it up with the yolks of four eggs, then fill the hole in the middle with this force-meat, and with a sharp knife make holes through the fillet, fill one hole with force meat, another with stewed spinach chopped fine, and another with the yolks of eggs the same as for egg balls; truss it as tight as you can to keep in the stuffing, put it into a deep stew-pan, with a quart of gravy, half a pint of white wine, a bundle of sweet herbs, and half a pint of fresh mushrooms, cover it close▪ [Page] and stew it for three hours; then take up the veal, skim the gravy, and take out the sweet herbs; put in a piece of butter mixed with flour, a sweetbread cut into pieces, some truffles and morels, and two artichoke bottoms cut in four, boil it up till it is thick and smooth, and squeeze in the juice of a lemon; have a roll of force-meat boiled, cut it into thin slices, put the veal in the dish, pour the sauce over, lay the slices of force meat round it, and garnish with lemon and beet-root. This is a beautiful dish, for when it is cut across it looks of different colours.

Fillet of Veal with Collops.

Take a small fillet of a cow calf, cut about half of it into thin collops about as big as a crown piece, cut a slice off the top of the udder, and cut it the same, stuff the remainder of the fillet and roast it; make the collops the same as white collops, which you well find in this chapter, lay the collops in the dish, and the roast in the middle; garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Shoulder of Veal a la Piedmontoise.

Take a shoulder of Veal, cut off the knuckle, and with a sharp knife carefully raise [...] the skin, that it may hang at one end, then lard the meat with bacon and small slips of lean ham, season it with pepper, salt, and beaten mace, parsley, sweet herbs, and lemon-peel chopped fine, cover the skin over again and skewer it on tight; put it into a stew-pan with two quarts of gravy, cover it close, and stew it till it is tender; then take a handful of sorrel, two cabbage lettuces shred small, an onion, a little parsley, and a few mushrooms chopped; take a little of the gravy the veal was stewed in, and boil them, thicken them with a little flour and butter, raise up the skin, and put the herbs, &c. over it; put over the skin again, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, and strew bread crumbs on it, send it to the oven and [Page] bake it of a fine brown; then put it into a hot dish, with some of the gravy it was stewed in under it, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

The French mesnod is to grate Paramazan cheese over it before they bake it, instead of egg and bread-crumbs.

Veal a la Bourgoise.

Cut four slices off a filled of veal an inch thick, and lard them with bacon; cut some thin rashers of bacon, lay them at the bottom of a stew-pan, and put in the veal the larded side uppermost; lay some rashers of bacon upon them, pour in a quart of veal broth, and stew them gently for one hour; have a pint of white cullis hot, take out the veal, lay it the larded side uppermost in the dish, pour the cullis over it, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Neck of Veal a la Royale.

Take the best end of a neck of veal and bone it, take off the skin, and lard the top with bacon; put a few rashers of bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan, put in the veal the larded side uppermost, with a quart of good gravy, and a bundle of sweet herbs, cover it close and stew it gently for two hours; then take out the veal, keep it hot, strain the gravy through a sieve, and skim the fat off; put about two ounces of butter into a stew-pan, melt it, put in a spoonful of flour, stir it till it is smooth then pour in the gravy, and boil it up till it is thick; season it with Cayan pepper and salt, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, then put in the veal the larded side downwards, and give it a boil; put the veal in the dish, pour the sauce over it, and garnish with fried sippets cut in any shape you please.

Neck of Veal a la Braize.

Take the best end of a neck of veal, chop off the chine bone, raise up the flesh of the rib-ends about▪ [Page] two inches, chop off the rib-bones, take off the skin, and lard it with bacon; cut some rashers of bacon and lay them at the bottom of a stew-pan, two or three thin slices of veal, put the neck on it the larded side uppermost, with a quart of brown gravy, a bundle of sweet herbs, some cloves, mace, and all spice, half a pint of white wine, half a pint of fresh mushrooms, lay some thin slices of veal over the neck, and some rashers of bacon on the veal, cover it close, put it over a stove, put hot charcoal at the top, and braize it for two hours and a half; then take up the veal strain off the gravy through a sieve, and skim off all the fat clean; put a little butter into a stew-pan▪ melt it, put in a large spoonful of flour, and stir it till it is smooth▪ then pour in the gravy, put in a spoonful of ketchup, and if it is not of a fine brown, put in some browning to make it so, and season it with Cayan pepper and salt; pick the fresh mushrooms from the meat put in some tru [...]des and mor [...]is washed clean, some boiled force meat balls, artichoke bottoms, ox palates, or sweet breads, as you fancy or can have them, put in the neck of veal the larded side downwards, give it a gentle stew for five minutes, and squeeze in the juice of half a lemon; then put the veal in the dish the larded side uppermost, put the sauce and ingredients round it, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Neck of Veal a la Glaize.

Prepare the best end of a neck of veal the same as a la braize; put some rashers of bacon at the bottom of a stew pan, some thin slices of veal over the bacon, lay the neck on them the larded side uppermost▪ put in a quart of veal broth, a bundle of sweet herbs, and a little cloves and mace; lay some thin slices of veal over it, and rashers of bacon over the veal, cover it close, and stew it for two hours: in the mean time take a pint of strong veal broth, put in a spoonful of browning, half an ounce of isinglass, and boil it till the isinglass is dissolved; then strain it through a sieve, [Page] put it into a stew-pan wide enough to hold the veal, boil it till it is of a fine glaze, and then put in the neck of veal, the larded side downwards, to take up the glaze; put some sorrel sauce in a dish▪ put in the neck of veal, the larded side uppermost, and garnish with fried sippets.

Fricandeux of Veal.

Cut a slice across a fillet of veal about two inches thick, and lard it with bacon; put three or four rashers of bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan, put in the veal, the larded side uppermost, with a pint of gravy, a bundle of sweet herbs, and a little cloves and mace; lay some rashers of bacon over the fricandeux, cover it close, and stew it gently for one hour; then take out the fricandeux, strain the gravy through a sieve, skim off the fat, put it into a stew-pan, and boil it till it is of a strong glaze; then put in the veal, the larded side downwards, and give it a boil up just to take the glaze, put some sorrel sauce in a dish, lay the veal on, the larded side uppermost, and garnish with fried sippets.

Veal Olives.

Cut six slices off a fillet of veal, as thin, long, and square as you can, flat them with a cleaver, and rub them over with the yolk of an egg; cut some fat bacon as thin as you can, nearly the length and width of the veal, put it on the veal, and rub it over with egg; put some good veal force-meat thin over the bacon, and rub it with egg; then roll it up tight, tie it with two bits of pack-thread, rub it over with the yolks of eggs and sprinkle bread crumbs over it; have a pan of fat boiling hot, put in the olives, and fry them all round of a fine light brown; then put them on a sieve to drain the fat from them, put them into a stew-pan, with a pint of brown gravy, half a pint of fresh mushrooms, a glass of white wine, a little butter mixed▪ with flour, and some pepper and salt, cover them close and stew them for half an hour; [Page] skim them well, put in some truffles and morels boiled and washed well, a sweetbread cut into pieces and boiled tender, some force-meat balls boiled, the juice of half a lemon, and give them a boil up; take out the olives, cut the strings off, put them in a dish, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Veal Olives another Way.

Cut some slices of veal very thin, about four in [...] es long and one inch and a half wide, beat them with a cleaver, and rub some yolk of an egg over them; then lay some veal force-meat very thin over them, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, roll them up tight, tie them with packthread, flour and fry them in a pan of hot fat of a fine brown; take them out, lay them on a sieve to drain and keep hot before the fire; in the mean time make a pint of brown cullis and pu [...] [...] some force-meat balls boiled, some truffles and morels, a sweetbread boiled and cut into pieces, some pickled mushrooms, and boil them up a few minutes; untie the olives, put them into a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Veal Olives the French Way.

Take two pounds of lean veal, a pound of beef marrow, two anchovies washed and boned, the yolks of two ha [...] eggs, a few fresh mushrooms, and a dozen oysters bearded all chopped very fine together, a little thyme, marjorum, parsley▪ spinach, lemon-peel shred fine, seasoned with beaten mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt, and mix the ingredients together with the yolks of two eggs; take a veal caul and lay a layer of fat bacon on it cut very thin, and then a layer of the force-meat, roll it up in the veal caul, and either roast or bake it an hour; when it is done enough cut it into slices, lay it in a hot dish, with good gravy or a little white cullis under it, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

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Veal Blanquets.

Roast a piece of filet of veal, but not too much, out off the skin and nervous parts, and cut it into very thin little bits; chop some onions very fine, put some butter into a stew-pan, and fry the onions a little crisp, then dust a little flour over them, shake the pan round, put in half a pint of white gravy or veal broth, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little beaten mace, pepper, and salt, and boil it up, and then put in the veal; beat up the yolks of two eggs with a gill of cream, grate in a little nutmeg, a little parsley chopped fine, a little lemon peel grated, put it in, and stir it one way till it is thick; take out the sweet herbs, squeeze in a little lemon juice, and put it into a hot dish; garnish with lemon.

Veal Rolls.

Cut twelve thin slices of veal, about four inches long and one inch and a half wide, put some yolk of egg over them, and some good veal force-meat very thin, roll them up tight, tie them across with a string, put them on a bird spit, tie them on another, rub the yolk of an egg over, sprinkle bread-crumbs on, roast them half an hour, and then lay them in a dish; make half a pint of brown cullis, and put in a few pickled mushrooms, some truffles and morels, the yolks of four hard eggs, give them a boil, and pour over the veal rolls; garnish with lemon.

Pilloc of Veal.

Take the best end of a neck of veal, half roast it, cut it into six chops, season it with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg; take a pound of rice, put to it a quart of broth, some beaten mace and salt, and half a pound of butter, stew it gently over a slow fire till it is thick, but take care it does not burn, and beat up the yolks of six eggs and stir in it; then take a deep dish and butter it, and when the rice is cold lay some at the bottom, the veal as close as you can, and [Page] cover it all over with rice, wash it over with the yolks of eggs, and bake it an hour and half; when done open the top, pour in a pint of good veal gravy, and send it to table hot.

Pilloc the Indian Way.

Take two pounds of rice, pick and wash it very clean, put it into a cullender to drain very dry, put a pound of butter and half a pint of water into a stew-pan, put in the rice, season it with cloves and mace beaten, some grated nutmeg, pepper, and salt, cover it close to keep in the steam, stew it gently, and stir it often to keep it from burning, till it is tender; in the mean time boil two fowls and about two pounds of bacon, as in common, or rather more done; put the fowls into a dish, cut the bacon in two, and lay it on each side of the fowls, put the rice over, and garnish with hard eggs, and a dozen onions fried whole and brown. This is the true Indian way.

Pilloc another Way.

Take a small leg of veal and an old cock [...], cut them in small pieces, put them in a p [...]t, [...] a quarter of an ounce of cloves and mace, a spoonful of whole pepper, a pound of lean bacon cut in bits, six onions, and three gallons of soft water; when the scum rises skim it clean, and put in a spoonful of salt, stew it well for three or four hours, and then strain it off into a wide earthen pan; the next day take off the fat and put it into a stew-pan, with two pounds of rice cleaned, picked, and washed, simmer it till the rice is tender and dry, and stir it often for fear it should burn; roast two fowls, put them in the dish, lay the rice all round them, heaped as high as the fowls, and garnish with hard eggs.

Curric of Veal.

Cut the best end of a neck of veal into thin chops, cut the bones off as short as you can, pepper and salt [Page] them, and fry them brown in fresh butter, cut six onions into slices and fry them brown, then put the veal to them, with a quart of veal broth and a small bottle of curric powder (if you have no curric powder put a tea spoonful of Cayan pepper) a little beaten mace, and a table spoonful of yellow turmarick, cover it close, and stew it gently for one hour; in the mean time boil a pound of rice in a gallon of water till it is tender, colour one third green with spinach juice, another third yellow with yellow turmarick, then put a row of green, a row of white, and a row of yellow, till the dish is full, then garnish it with hard eggs; put the veal and sauce in another dish, and garnish with lemon.

Porcupine of a Breast of Veal.

Take a fine large breast of veal and bone it, lay it flat on a dresser, and rub it over with the yolks of two eggs, cut some fat bacon as thin as you can and put over it, a handful of parsley, a little lemon-peel shred fine, the yolks of [...]ix hard eggs chopped small, and the crumb of a penny loaf soaked in cream, seasoned with pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and a little beaten mace, roll the breast close and skewer it tight; then cut fat bacon, some boiled ham, and some pickled cucumbers in thin slips about two inches long; lard it in rows, first ham, then bacon, then cucumbers, till you have larded the veal all round; then put it into a deep earthen pan with a pint of water, cover it close, and put it in an oven two hours; as soon as it is done take it out, put the veal in a dish and keep it hot; strain the liquor through a sieve into a stew-pan, skim off the fat, put in a glass of white wine, a little lemon pickle and caper liquor, a spoonful of ketchup, a little pepper and salt, thicken it with butter mixed with flour, and boil it up; lay the veal in a hot dish and pour the sauce over it; have ready a roll of force-meat made thus; get half a pound of le [...]n veal, half a pound of beef-suet cut small, the crumb of a penny loaf beat in a marble mortar, put in a dozen oysters chopped fine, season it with nutmeg, [Page] Cayan pepper and salt, mix it up with the yolks of four eggs, lay it on a veal caul, roll it up like a collared [...], bind it in a cloth, and boil it one hour; when it is done cut it into four slices, lay one at each end, and one on each side; cut the sweetbread into four slices, fry them brown with butter, and lay a slice between each slice of force-meat. You may put mushrooms, truffles and morels in the sauce if you think proper.

When game is out of season this will serve as a grand bottom dish.

A Savory Dish of Veal.

Cut some [...]in slices off a fillet of veal, hack them with the back of a knife, rub them over with the yolks of eggs, lay some good veal force-meat over them, roll them up tight, tie them with pack thread, rub them over with the yolks of eggs, and sprinkle bread-crumbs over them; butter a dish and put them in, bake them for half an hour in a quick oven; take a pint of brown cullis, put in a few pickled mushrooms, a few truffles and morels boiled and washed well, and give them a boil up▪ fry about a dozen force-meat balls, put the veal in the dish, the balls round it, and pour the cullis and mushrooms over it; garnish with lemon. Be sure to cut the strings off.

Breast of Veal collared.

Take a fine breast of veal, and with a sharp knife take out the bones and the [...]in of the [...] end, take care you do not cut the meat through, and rub it over with the yolk of an egg; mix a handful of breadcrumbs with half a nutmeg grated, a little beaten cloves, mace, pepper and salt, a handful of parsley, a few sweet herbs, a little lemon-peel shred fine, and sprinkle over the veal; roll it up tight, run a skewer through the middle and cut both ends even, tie it round with pack-thread to keep it tight, put the spit through the middle, wrap the caul round, and tie it on; roast it for two hours, take the caul off about [Page] a quarter of an hour before it is done, baste it with butter, and make it of a fine brown; in the meat time take a pint of brown cullis, put it in a stew-pan, with half a pint of fresh or a gill of pickled mushrooms, a few truffles and morels, two artichoke bottoms cut in pieces, and stew it a quarter of an hour; take up the veal, set it upright in the dish, and pour in the sauce; have your sweetbread cut in four and nicely boiled, with some fried force-meat balls, and put them round, garnish the dish with lemon and beet-root.

Fricandillas of Veal.

Take two pounds of lean veal, half a pound of the kidney suet of veal chopped very small, and the crumb of a twopenny french roll soaked in hot milk; squeeze the milk out, put it to the veal, season it pretty high with pepper, suet, and grated nutmeg, make it into balls about as big as a tea-cup, rub it over with the yolks of eggs put half a pound of butter into a stew-pan, and fry them of a light brown; then put them on a sieve to drain a few minutes, put them into a stew-pan with a quart of veal broth, stew them gently for three quarters of an hour, thicken it with butter mixed with flour, season it with a little pepper and salt, and squeeze in the juice of half a lemon; put them in a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Tenderoons of Veal.

Take the brisket part of a breast of veal, put it into a sauce-pan, and cover it with water, put it on the fire, and when the scum [...] skim it clean, put in a bundle of sweet herbs, and onion stuck with cloves, three or four blades of mace, a little salt, and boil it till it is tender; then take it up and cut it across in thin slices; put a [...] out two ounces of butter into a stew-pan melt it and put in a spoonful of flower, stir it till it is smooth, but do not [...]et it burn strain in about a pint of the broth, and stir it round; then [Page] put the veal, with a few fresh mushrooms first stewed, some asparagus tops boiled tender, and some force-meat and egg balls; give it a toss up, season it with Cayan pepper and salt, mix the yolks of two eggs with half a pint of cream, grate in a little nutmeg, put it in, shake it one way till it is thick and smooth, and squeeze in the juice of half a lemon put it into the dish▪ and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Tenderoons another Way.

Put the brisket end of a breast of veal into a sauce-pan, cover it with water, put in a bundle of sweet herbs, some cloves and mace, and boil it till it is tender; then take it out and cut it across very thin; have a pint and half of white cullis in a stew-pan, put in the veal, with some fresh mushrooms stewed, some asparagus tops boiled, some force meat and egg balls and make it hot; then put it into a dish, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Italian Collops.

Cut about two dozen slices off a fillet of veal about two inches square, and lard them with small slips of bacon; put some butter into a stew-pan, make it hot, and fry them; the unlarded side of a fine brown first, then turn them, and fry them a little on the larded side; take them out, and put them before the fire to keep hot, pour out the fat and put a pint of brown cullis into the pan▪ with some pickled mushrooms, truffles and morels, a sweetbread boiled and cut into pieces, some small force-meat balls boiled and give them a boil up; put the collops into a dish the larded side uppermost, put the sauce and in [...]redients over them, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Italian Collops White.

Cut your collops, and lard them as before, and throw them into boiling water for a minute; put a [Page] little butter into a stew-pan, melt it, and put in a spoonful of flour, stir it till it is smooth, then pour in a pint of veal broth, season it with nutmeg, beaten mace, pepper and salt, put in the collops, with a few mushrooms and asparagus tops boiled and stew them for five or six minutes; mix the yolks of two eggs with half a pint of cream, put it in shake the pan one way till they are thick and smooth and squeeze in the juice of half a lemon; then put them in a dish the larded side uppermost, pour the sauce over them, and garnish w [...]h lemon and beet-root.

Scotch Collops.

Cut your collops very thin, about as broad as a crown piece, off a fillet of veal, and some fat with them, sprinkle some salt on them, and flour them; put into a frying pan a piece of butter, make it hot, put in the collops fry them on both sides of a fine brown, and then lay them in your dish, have the following ragou ready: put sour ounces of butter into a stew-pan, melt it, put in a large spoonful of flour, and stir it till it is smooth; then pour in a pint and a half of good gravy, stir it till it boils up, put in a gill of white wine, some fresh or pickled mushrooms, truffles and morels washed clean, a sweetbread blanched and cut in pieces, artichoke bottoms cut in pieces, some force-meat balls boiled, stew them for half an hour, and squeeze in the juice of half a lemon; then put it over the collops, and garnish with small rashers of bacon toasted and lemon. You may cut and fry the collops, put in a pint of brown cullis, a few pickled mushrooms, some truffles and morels, a sweetbread, or ox-palates boiled tender, and force-meat balls boiled; give them a boil up for a minute, put them in a dish, and garnish with rushers of bacon and lemon.

White Collops.

Cut them the same as for Scotch collops, put them [Page] into a stew-pan, and pour some boiling water over them, stir them about, and strain them off; put a little butter into a stew-pan, melt it, put a spoonful of flour in, and stir it till it is smooth; then pour in a pint of veal broth, season it with a little beaten mace, pepper and salt, put in the collops, with a bundle of sweet herbs, a sweetbread boiled and cut in pieces, some fresh mushrooms, stewed first, or pickled ones washed in warm water, a few force-meat balls boiled, and stew them about five or six minutes; mix the yolks of two eggs with half a pint of cream, grate a little nutmeg in, put it into the pan, and keep shaking it one way till it is thick and smooth; take out the sweet herbs, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, put it into a hot dish, and garnish with lemon and beet root.

Scotch Collops a la Francoise.

Cut large collops off a leg of veal, lard them with thin slips of bacon, put them in a pan▪ pour half a pint of mild ale boiling over them, and let them lay till the blood is out; then take out the collops, sprinkle them over with parsley, sweet herbs, and lemon-peel shred fine, flour them, and fry them brown in fresh butter; take them out and put them into a dish; put the ale into the stew-pan▪ with a little anchovy liquor, a glass of white wine, a little Cayan pepper, and boil it up; beat up the yolks of two eggs and stir in, with a little butter, shake altogether till it is thick, pour it over the collops, and garnish with rashers of bacon toasted and lemon.

Calf's Head Surprise.

Take a calf's head with the skin on, scald it the same as for mock turtle, and with a sharp knife raise up the skin, with as much meat from the bones as you can, so as it may appear like a whole head when stuffed, then make a force-meat thus; tale a pound of lean veal, a pound of fat bacon scraped, a pound of beef suet, the crumb of a two-penny loaf rubbed through a cullender, beat it all well in a mortar, [Page] with some sweet herbs, parsley, and lemon-peel shred fine, some cloves, mace, and nutmeg beat fine, with Cayan pepper and salt, enough to season it, beat up the yolks of four eggs, and mix altogether; stuff the head with the force meat and skewer it tight at both ends, then put it into a pot or deep pan, with two quarts of water, a pint of white wine, a blade or two of mace, a bundle of sweet herbs, an anchovy, two spoonsful of walnut and mushroom ketchup, the same of lemon pickle, some pepper and salt, lay a coarse paste over it to keep in the steam, and bake it two hours and a half in a sharp oven; when you take it out, put the head in a deep soup-dish, skim off the fat from the gravy, strain it through a sieve into a stew-pan, thicken it with butter mixed with flour, and boil it up for a few minutes; mix the yolks of four eggs with half a pint of cream put in, stir it one way till it is thick and smooth, then pour it over the head, and garnish with force-meat balls boiled, some truffles boiled, barberries and pickled mushrooms.

Ham a la Braize.

Cut off the knuckle and soak it a [...] for boiling, half boil it and take off the skin, put some rashers of fat bacon at the bottom of a long deep stew-pan, with slices of beef over it, season it with beaten cloves and mace, sweet herbs and parsley chopped fine; lay the ham in with the fat side uppermost, and cut in six onions, a parsnep, and two carrots sliced, with some chives and parsley, lay them on both the sides, but not at top, cover the ham with slices of lean beef, and fat bacon over the beef then some roots sliced over all, cover it close, and stop it with paste; put it over a gentle fire, and some fire at the top, and let it braize for eight hours; then carefully take it out, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle bread-crumbs over, and brown it with a hot salamander; when cold, put it on a clean napkin, and garnish, with parsley.

[Page] If it is to be eat hot, make the following ragou: take a pint and a half of good brown cullis, strain the gravy that comes from the ham into the stew-pan skim off the sat and put it in; cut a veal sweet-bread into pieces, some cocks combs, truffles and morels, pickled or fresh mushrooms, and the yolks of six hard eggs, boil it up for ten minutes, put it in the dish, and put the ham on the top; garnish with lemon and barberries.

Shoulder of Mutton in Epigram.

Take a shoulder of mutton and roast it nearly enough, then carefully take off the skin as thick as a crown piece and the shank-bone at the end cut the meat off the blade bone, pepper, salt, and broil it, season the skin and shank-bone with pepper and salt, some sweet herbs and parsley shred fine, sprinkle some bread-crumbs on it, and broil it of a fine brown; in the mean time cut up the meat, and hash it in the same manner as directed in the receipt for hashed mutton, only put the gravy in that run from it; put the blade bone in the dish, the hash close round it, then put the skin over all, and garnish with green pickles.

Shoulder of Mutton Surprise.

Cut the shank off a shoulder of mutton and half boil it, then put it into a stew-pan, with two quarts of good gravy, half a pound of rice, a tea spoonful of mushroom powder▪ if you have it, a little beaten mace, some pepper and salt, and stew it one hour, or till the rice is done; then take up the mutton and keep it hot, put to the rice a piece of butter mixed with flour, and shake it about; put in half a pint of good cream, shake it well for five or six minutes, lay the mutton in the dish, and put the sauce and rice over it; garnish with green pickles or barberries, and send it to table hot.

Leg of Mutton a la Royale.

Take a leg of mutton, cut off all the fat skin and [Page] shank-bone, lard it with bacon all over, and season it with pepper and salt; take a round piece of beef or fillet of veal, of about sour pounds, and lard it; have a pan or hogs lard boiling hot, flour your meat, and give it a nice brown colour in the lard, then take the meat out, and lay it on a sieve to drain a few minutes▪ put it into a deep stew-pan with a bundle of sweet herbs, some parsley, an onion stuck with cloves, two or three blades of mace, a little whole pepper, and three quarts of gravy, cover it close, and let it stew gently for two hours; in the mean time make a pint and a half of brown cullis, put in some mushrooms, truffles and morels, a sweetbread cut in pieces▪ some asparagus tops boiled▪ two spoonsful of ketchup, a gill of red wine, and stew it for ten minutes; then lay the mutton in the middle of a dish, cut the beef or veal into slices, make a rim round the mutton with the slices, pour the ragou over, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Leg of Mutton a la Hoût Goút.

In cold weather hang a leg of mutton in an airy place for a fortnight, cut off the shank, stuff it all over with cloves of garlick, roast it, baste it with red wine, and sprinkle pepper and salt on it; while it is roasting boil a gill of gravy, as much red wine, with six shallots chopped fine together, put it in the dish, and put the leg on it; garnish with horse-radish.

Shoulder of Mutton with a Ragou of Turneps.

Take a shoulder of mutton, cut off the shank, and take out the blade bone as neat as possible, and in the place put a ragou made as follows: take one or two sweetbreads cut in pieces, a dozen cockcombs, half an ounce of truffles and morels, some fresh mushrooms, a little beaten mace, pepper and salt, stew all these in a little good gravy, and thicken it with butter mixed with flour, or the yolks of two eggs, which you please, and let it be cold before you put it in▪ then till up the place where you took the bone [Page] from, just in the form it was before, and few it up tight: take a large deep stew pan, lay at the bottom thin slices of bacon▪ then slices of veal [...] a bundle of parsley and sweet herbs▪ some whole pepper, two or three blades of mace, six cloves, a large onion, and just cover the meat with gravy cover it close and stew it gently for two hours: pare eight or ten turneps▪ and cut them into what different shapes you please, boil them in water sufficient to cover them, strain them off in a sieve and put them over the water to keep hot; then take up the mutton, drain it from the fat, and keep it hot and covered; strain the gravy it was stewed in and skim off all the fat clean, put it into a stew-pan, season it with pepper and salt, put in a glass of white wine, two spoonsful of ketchup, thicken it with butter mixed with flour, and boil it up till it is thick and smooth; then-put in the turneps, give them a toss or two, pour the sauce over the meat, and garnish with barberries.

To stuff a Leg or Shoulder of Mutton.

Take some bread-crumbs, half a pound of beef-suet, the yolks of [...]our hard eggs, three anchovies boned, and twelve oysters, all chopped small, a little parsley and sweet herbs shred fine, season it with nutmeg, pepper and salt, work it all up with the yolks of two raw eggs like a paste, cut a hole in the thick part of the mutton, or where you please, put in the stuffing and roast it; for sauce. take a gill of the oyster liquor, as much claret, a little anchovy liquor, a little nutmeg, an onion, and a dozen oysters; stew these together for ten minutes, take out the onion, pour the sauce under the mutton, and garnish with horse-radish.

Oxford John.

Keep a leg of mutton till it is stale, cut it into as thin collops as you can, but first cut of the fat and sinews, season them with pepper and salt, a little [Page] beaten mace, and strew among them a little thyme, and three or four shallots shred fine; put about a quarter of a pound of butter into a stew-pan and make it hot, put in your collops, keep them stirring with a wooden spoon till they are three parts done, and then add a pint of gravy, a little juice of lemon, thicken it with butter mixed with flour let them simmer four or five minutes and they will be enough; but take care you do not let them boil nor have them ready before you want them, as they will get hard; fry some bread sippets and put round and over them, and send them up hot.

Mutton the Turkish Way,

Take a leg or neck of mutton and cut it into thin slices, then wash it in vinegar put it into a pot that has a close cover to it, put in to a leg three quarts of water, a quarter of a pound of rice, a little whole pepper, and three or four onions: to a neck, two quarts of water, three ounces of rice, a little whole pepper, and onions; cover it close, stew it gently, and allow a quarter of an hour for every pound of meat, skim it frequently, and when done take out the onions▪ season it with salt to your palate. p [...]t in a quarter of a pound of butter, stir it well round, and take care the rice does not burn to the bottom; put the meat in the dish, and pour the rice and gravy over it. You may put in a little mace and a bundle of sweet herbs if you think proper.

A Basque of Mutton.

Get a caul of veal and lay it in a copper dish about the size of a small punch bowl, take a leg of mutton that has been kept a week, cut off the lean, and chop it very small, with half its weight in beef marrow, the crumb of a penny loaf, the yolks of four eggs, two anchovies boned and washed, half a pint of red wine, the rind of half a lemon grated, and a little pepper and salt; mix it up like sausage meat, lay it in your caul in the inside of the dish, [Page] close up the caul, and bake it for one hour and a half in a quick over; when it comes out turn your dish upside down, and turn the whole out into another dish, pour some go d [...] gravy over it, garnish with pickles, and send venison sauce in a boat.

To collar a Breast of Mutton.

Take a large breast of mutton, and with a sharp knife take off the skin, cut all the bones out, and grate some nutmeg over the inside; chop some parsley, sweet herbs, and a little lemon-peel very fine, some crumbs of bread mixed together, with a little beaten mace, pepper and salt, rub the inside with the yolk of an egg sprinkle the herbs and bread-crumbs over, and roll it up tight; run a skewer through to hold it together, tie it round with packthread, cut the ends even to make it stand upright in the dish, spit it, and put it down to roast: put half a pint of red wine in the pan, and baste it till the wine is soaked up, then baste it with butter to make it of a fine froth; (one hour at a good fire will do it) when it is done take it up, untie it, take out the skewer, set it upright in a dish, with a little good gravy in the dish; garnish with green pickles, and send venison sauces in boats.

If you do not approve of red wine, you may put a quart of milk, and a quarter of a pound of butter in the pan and baste it with.

Mutton Kebobbed.

Take a loin of mutton, cut out all the inside fat and the skin off the back, cut it in five or six pieces and rub them all over with the yolk of an egg, have some bread-crumbs▪ sweet herbs, parsley, and lemon-peel shred fine, a little beaten mace, pepper and salt, mixed together sprinkle the mutton all over, put it on a small spit, baste it with butter and sprinkle it with the crumbs and herbs several times while it is roasting: make it of a fine brown [Page] then put it in a hot dish, with some good gravy under it; garnish with horse-radish, and poveroy sauce in a boat.

Neck of Mutton called the Hasty Dish.

Take a large silver or pewter dish, made like a deep soup-dish, with an edge about an inch deep in the inside, on which the lid fixes (with a handle at top) so fast that you may lift it up by that handle without letting it fall, this dish is called a necromancer. Take a neck of mutton about six pounds, take off the skin, cut it into chops, but not too thick cut a French roll and a large onion into thin slices, pare and slice three or four turneps lay a row of mutton in the dish on that a row of roll, then turneps then onion, a little salt, then the meat and so on till all is in, put in a bundle of sweet herbs and a blade or two of mace; have a tea-kettle of boiling water [...]ill the dish, cover it close, and hang the dish on the back of two chairs by the rim; have ready three sheets of brown paper, tear each sheet into five pieces, draw them through your hand, light one piece and hold it under the bottom of your dish, moving the paper about as fast as it burns, proceed thus till all the paper is burnt, and your meat will be enough, (fifteen minutes just does it) and send it to table hot in the dish.

This dish was first contrived by the late Mr. Rich, and is now much admired by the nobility and gentry.

Mutton a la Blaize.

Cut six or eight chops very thin and cut off the skin; get a double black-tin or silver pan, made with a cover to fix on close, lay your chops in, chop some parsley, lemon-peel, and a few sweet herbs fine, and sprinkle over them, with half a dozen shallots or onions chopped very fine, seasoned pretty high with Cayan pepper and salt, put in a little gravy, put the cover on close, and stew them very gently [Page] for ten or twelve minutes over a clear fire; (or you may stew them with paper, as directed in the above receipt) send them to table hot with the cover on.

Mutton Chops in Disguise.

Cut as many chops as you want but not too thick rub them with pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and chopped parsley; roll each chop in half a sheet of white paper will buttered in the inside, and rolled at each end close; have a pan of hogs lard or beef dripping boiling hot, put in the chops, fry them quick and of a fine brown; then take them out and lay them on a sieve to drain the fat from them before the fire; fry a handful of parsley crisp, lay the chops in a hot dish, put the parsley over and round them, with poveroy sauce in a boat. You must be careful you do not break the paper, as that will spoil them.

Herrico of Mutton.

Take the best end of a neck or loin of mutton, cut off the skin, and cut it i [...] to thick chops, pepper, salt, and flour them; fry them on both sides of a light brown in a little butter, put them on a sieve to drain, then put them into a stew-pan, with a bundle of sweet herbs, half a pint of white wine, and as much gravy as will cover them, cover them close and stew them gently for one hour; then take out the chops strain the gravy through a sieve, and skim off the fat; put some butter into a stew-pan. melt it▪ put in a spoonful of flour, and stir it till is smooth, then pour the gravy in, and keep it stirring all the time; in the mean time pare two carrots and six turneps, cut them into dice, or what shape you fancy, peel two dozen button onions, and cut the white part of two heads of cellery about half an inch long, wash them all well, and boil them till they are tender; then strain them in a sieve, and put them into the gravy, put in the chops, season it with pepper and salt, and give them a stew for fifteen minutes; take out the chops with a [Page] fork, lay them in the dish, put the roots and sauce over them, and garnish with beet-root.

Mutton the French Way.

Take the two chumps off the loins together, cut off the rump with a sharp knife, begin at the broad end and carefully raise up the skin of the rump-end, but mind you do not cut the skin through; then take a little lean ham or bacon, chop it very fine, a few truffles, parsley, sweet herbs, and a little lemon-peel shred fine, a little cloves, mace, and half a nutmeg, beat fine a little pepper and salt, mix all these together and strew over the meat where you took the skin from; then lay on the skin again, fasten it tight with skewers, and put a sheet of white paper well buttered over it, put it on a spit and roast it two hours; then take off the paper, baste the meat with a little butter, strew it all over with bread-crumbs, and when it is of a fine brown take it up and put it into a hot dish; for sauce, chop six shallots fine, put them into a sauce-pan, with a spoonful of vinegar and two spoonsful of white wine, boil it a minute or two, put it into the dish, and garnish with horse-radish.

Another French Way, called St. Menehout.

Take the chumps off the loins together, cut off the rump, and take off the skin, lard it in rows with small slits of fat bacon, season it with beaten cloves, mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt, some sweet herbs, parsley, and young onions chopped fine; take a large stew-pan big enough to hold it, lay layers of bacon at the bottom, and thin slices of lean beef over the bacon, lay in the mutton the larded side uppermost; put in a pint of white wine, a pint of gravy, two or three bay leaves, a few shallots, and lay layers of bacon and beef over it, cover it close, put fire over and under it, and stew it for two hours; when it is done take it out, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, and strew bread-crumbs over it, put it in an oven or [Page] before the fire to brown; strain the gravy it was stewed in through a sieve, skim off the fat, put it into a sauce-pan, and boil it up; put it into the dish, put on the mutton, and send it up hot.

Lion of Mutton forced.

Take the bones out of a loin of mutton, and make a stuffing with the crumb of a penny loaf, half a pound of beef-suet chopped fine, sweet herbs, parsley, and lemon-peel shred fine, some grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, mix it up with the yolks of two eggs, and put it in where the bones came from, sew it up, raise up the skin, skewer it on, spit and roast it; when it is nearly done take off the skin, give it a fine brown, dish it up, with good gravy under it, and garnish with horse-radish.

Breast of Mutton grilled.

Half boil a breast of mutton, score it, season it with pepper and salt, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, and sprinkle it with bread crumbs, sweet herbs chopped and mixed, put it over a clear fire and broil it gently of a fine brown, or put it in a Dutch oven before the fire; chop a little parsley, onion, four pickled cucumbers, and half a gill of capers, boil them five minutes in half a pint of gravy thickened with butter mixed with flour, lay the mutton in the dish, and pour the sauce over it.

Mutton Rumps a la Braize.

Take six mutton rumps and boil them fifteen minutes in water, take them out, cut them in two, and put them into a stew-pan, with half a pint of gravy, a gill of white wine, an onion stuck with cloves, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little Cayan pepper and salt, cover them close, and stew them till they are tender; take them, the sweet herbs, and onion out, skim off the fat, and boil the gravy till it is clear; then put in the rumps, with a spoonful of browning, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, give them a boil up, and garnish with beet-root.

[Page] For variety, you may leave the rumps whole; skin six kidnies, and lard them on one side, dress them in the same manner as the rumps, but do not boil them, put the rumps in the middle of the dish, and the kidnies round them. The kidnies make a pretty sidedish of themselves, if dressed as the rumps.

Mutton Rumps with Rice.

Take six mutton rumps, put them into a stew-pan, with a quart of mutton gravy or broth, stew them for half an hour, and then take them out and let them stand to cool; boil half a pound of rice in two quarts of water for ten minutes, strain it off, skim the fat off the gravy, put the rice in, and stew it gently till it is thick, but take care it does not burn; season it with a little beaten mace, pepper and salt, rub the rumps over with the yolks of eggs, sprinkle bread-crumbs over them; have a pan of fat boiling hot, and fry them of a fine brown; put them on a sieve to drain the fat from them, lay the rice in the dish, the rumps in what form you please over it, and garnish with hard boiled eggs cut in two.

Lamb's Head.

Take a lamb's head and pluck, cut out the eyes and gall, cut the nut off the liver and heart, take out the brains, wash the head and the rest of the pluck very clean, and boil it twenty minutes in water; then take out the liver and lights, and mince it in the same manner as veal, put it into a stew-pan with the liquor it was boiled in, enough to moisten it, with a little lemon-peel shred fine, a spoonful of ketchup, a little butter mixed with flour, pepper and salt and give it a boil up; take the head up and notch it across, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, grate some nutmeg over it, and sprinkle it with bread-crumbs, put it on a clear fire and broil it of a light brown; cut the heart and the nut of the liver in slices, the brains in four, pepper, salt, and flour them, fry them of a light brown in butter, put the mince [Page] in the dish, lay the head over it, and put the fry round for garnish.

To force a Leg of Lamb.

Take a leg of lamb, and with a sharp knife carefully take out all the meat, leaving the skin and sat whole on the bones, and make the lean into a forcemeat thus; to two pounds of the meat pick and chop one pound of beef suet, put the lean and suet into a marble mortar, with four large spoonsful of crumbs of bread, beat them well together and season it with six blades of mace, ten or twelve cloves, and half a nutmeg beat fine, a little lemon-peel, parsley, and thyme shred fine, a little pepper and salt, mix it all up with the yolks of four raw eggs, put it into the skin again in the same shape that it was before the meat was cut out, sew it up, put it on a small spit, roast it, and baste it with b [...]ter; cut the loin into chops, and fry it as directed in the chapter for frying, lay the leg in the dish, the chops round, with good gravy under it, and garnish with springs of cauliflowers boiled tender.

Lamb Cutlets with Fin Sauce.

Cut a neck, loin, or leg of lamb into cutlets, rub them over with the yolks of eggs, sprinkle them with bread-crumbs, parsley, sweet herbs, and lemon-peel shred fine, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, mixed together; broil them over a clear fire of a nice brown, put them in a hot dish, and pour fin sauce over them, made as directed in the chapter for sauces; garnish with crisped parsley.

Lamb Chops in Casorole.

Cut a loin of lamb in chops, season them with beaten cloves, mace, pepper and salt, rub them over with the yolk of an egg, and sprinkle bread-crumbs on them; have a pan of beef-dripping boiling hot, fry them of a fine brown, lay them on a sieve to [Page] drain, fry a large handful of parsley crisp, lay the chops close round in a dish, and leave a hole in the middle to pour in the following sauce: chop some parsley, sweet herbs, a little lemon-peel, and two shallots very fine, stew it five minutes in some good thick gravy, and garnish with fried parsley.

Lamb Chops larded.

Take the best end of a neck of lamb, cut it into chops, and lard one side of them, season them with beaten cloves, mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, put them into a stew-pan the larded side uppermost, put in half a pint of gravy, a gill of white wine, an onion, and a bundle of sweet herbs, cover them close and stew them gently for half an hour; then take out the chops, skim the fat off clean, take out the onion and herbs, thicken the gravy with a little butter mixed with flour, put in a little browning, a spoonful of ketchup, and one of lemon pickle, a few pickled mushrooms, truffles and morels, and boil it up; then put the chops in the larded side downwards, give them a boil for a minute or two, lay the chops in the dish the larded side uppermost, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with green pickles or barberries.

You may stew the chops without larding if you think proper.

Shoulder of Lamb a la Salpicon.

Take a shoulder of lamb, and take the bones out on the under side, but leave in the shank end, stuff it with veal force-meat where the bones came out of and season it with mace, pepper, and salt; put some rashers of bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan, put in the lamb, with bacon over it, a pint of veal broth, and a bundle of sweet herbs, cover it close, and stew it gently for three quarters of an hour; then take it out and lay it in a dish; have ready the following sauce, take a pint of brown cullis, cut [Page] a sweetbread into dice, a few pickled mushrooms, and asparagus tops boiled, boil it up a few minutes, pour the sauce in the dish, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Breasts of Lamb a la Paitrine.

Get two small breasts of lamb and cut them neatly, lay some rashers of bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan, put in the lamb, with a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion stuck with cloves, and cover them, with bacon, put in a pint of broth, cover them, and stew them till they are tender; in the mean time make a sauce thus: chop a few mushrooms, three or four shallots, and a little parsley very fine, put it into a stew-pan, with a pint of strong veal gravy, season it with pepper, salt, and a little beaten mace, let it simmer for ten minutes, and thicken it with butter mixed with flour; lay the two breasts in the dish brisket side outwards, and pour the sauce over them; garnish with green pickles.

Neck of Lamb a la Glaize.

Take a neck of lamb, cut off the scrag, and lard it with bacon in rows as neat as you can; put some slices of bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan, and slices of veal over it, lay on the lamb the larded side uppermost, put in a quart of veal broth, a bundle of sweet herbs, some cloves and mace, lay veal and bacon over, the same as under it, cover it close, and stew it one hour; in the mean time make a glaze the same as for a neck of veal; take the lamb out, put it in the glaze, the larded side downwards, for two or three minutes, put sorrel sauce in the dish, lay the lamb on the larded side uppermost, and garnish with fried sippets.

You may dress a breast the same way, only you need not lard it.

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Ribs of Lamb on Gardinere.

Take a rib of lamb, lay it the upper side downwards in a stew-pan, put in a quart of brown gravy, a bundle of sweet herbs, cover them close, and stew them gently for three quarters of an hour; then take out the lamb, cover it over to keep hot, take the sweet herbs out of the gravy, and skim the fat off, put in a little butter mixed with flour, a gill of white wine, a little pepper and salt, and give it a boil up; put in some parsley, pickled cucumbers, and capers chopped fine, and boil them a few minutes; cut some pickled cucumbers, walnuts, or any other pickles you have, lay them all round the ribs in what form you please, pour the sauce under them, and spread in the middle of the lamb as much of the parsley, &c. as you can; send it to table hot, and garnish with pickled French beans or samphire.

Lambs Ears in Beshemel.

Take six lamb ears, scald the wool off, and wash them clean, stuff the inside with good veal force-meat, put them into a stew-pan, with a pint of veal broth, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little cloves and mace, stew them till they are tender, and then take them out; in the mean time make a pint of beshemel, as directed in the beginning of this chapter, put them in it, with a few fresh mushrooms stewed, a dozen asparagus tops and a few small force-meat and egg balls boiled; give them a boil up for a minute, put the ears in the dish, pour the sauce over them and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Claves Ears in Beshemel.

Take four calves ears, scald the hair off, wash them very clean, and stuff the inside with good veal force-meat, put them into a stew-pan, with a quart of veal broth, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little cloves and mace, cover them close, and stew them till they are tender; take them out, put them in a pint of [Page] beshemel, with a few fresh mushrooms stewed, or pickled ones washed in warm water, a few truffles and morels boiled tender and washed well, a dozen force meat and egg balls boiled, and give them a boil for a minute; put the ears in the dish, two in the middle and one at each end, put the sauce over them, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Barbicued Pig.

Take a fat pig of ten weeks old, scald it and cut it open, so that it will lay flat in the dish, and the skin on the back remain whole, and lay it in a deep dish; put a pint of Madeira wine and half a pint of vinegar into a sauce-pan, with a bundle of sweet herbs, some cloves, mace, all-spice, and onion, three or four shallots, pepper and salt, some bay and sage leaves, give it a boil for a minute, and pour it over the pig; turn it often, and with a spoon lade the liquor on it, let it lay all night, and the next morning wipe it dry with a cloth; have a large gridiron over a very clear fire, put it on, broil it very gradually of a fine brown on both sides, and as it broils season it very high with Cayan pepper and salt. You may put three or four skewers through the inside, put it on a spit, and roast it, and as it roasts sprinkle it with Cayan pepper and salt, baste it with the liquor it was laid all night in and a little butter; or you may put it into a deep dish, the belly downwards, season it high as before, put it into the oven, and bake it till it is of a fine brown; two hours will be sufficient, but you must baste it now and then with the liquor and butter, as directed for roasting; when it is done, have a large dish very hot and lay it in, with the following sauce under it: put a piece of butter into a stew-pan, melt it, put in a spoonful of flour, and stir it till it is smooth, put in half a pint of good gravy, a pint of Madeira wine, a dozen sage leaves chopped fine, season it with Cayan pepper and salt pretty high, and stew it for a quarter of an hour; when it is baked take the liquor from under [Page] it, strain it through a sieve, blow off the fat, and put it into the sauce; garnish with barberries.

A Pig the French Way.

Take a roasting pig that is made ready for the spit, and make the following stuffing: take the crumb of a penny loaf, half a pound of beef suet chopped fine, six sage leaves, some parsley, and lemon-peel shred fine, some pepper and salt, mix it all up with the yolks of two eggs, put it into the belly of the pig, few it up, and roast it till it is nearly done; cut it off the spit, divide it into about twenty pieces, take out the stuffing, and put the pig into a stew-pan, with half a pint of white wine, a pint and a half of good gravy, and two onions chopped small, season it with grated nutmeg, Cayan pepper and salt, a little thyme and lemon-peel chopped fine, cover it close, and stew it gently for one hour; then put in a piece of butter rolled in flour, a spoonful of anchovy liquor, and one of vinegar or mushroom pickle, cut the stuffing in square pieces and put in, and stew it fifteen minutes longer; lay it in your dish, pour the sauce over it, and garnish with a Seville orange cut in slices.

A Pig an Pere Douillet.

Take a roasting pig, scald it, and wash it clean, cut off the head, and cut it into quarters the same as lamb, lard them with bacon, and season them with beaten cloves, mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt; lay a layer of fat bacon at the bottom of a deep stew-pan, lay the head in the middle, and the quarters round it; put in a few bay leaves, an onion sliced, one lemon cut in two, a carrot and parsnep sliced, some parsley and cives, cover the pig over with bacon, and put in a quart of veal broth, cover it close, and stew it gently for one hour over a slow fire; then take it up, and put the pig into another stew-pan with a bottle of white wine, cover it close, and stew it gently for one hour longer. If you send it up cold, let it lay [Page] in the liquor till it is cold, then drain it well, and wipe it with a clean cloth; put the head in the middle of the dish, the quarters round it, and strew it over with green parsley. Any one of the quarters is a pretty dish, laid on water-cresses, and garnished with parsley. If you choose to send it to table hot, while your pig is stewing in the wine, take the first gravy it was stewed in and strain it, skim off all the fat, put it into a stew-pan, with a sweet bread boiled and cut in pieces, some truffles and morels, and pickled mushrooms, stew it a few minutes, and season it with Cayan pepper and salt, thicken it with the yolks of four eggs beat up, or with butter mixed with flour; and when your pig is done lay the head in the middle of the dish, and the quarters round it; put the wine it was stewed in to the sauce, skim it well, pour the ragou over it, and garnish with lemon and pickled barberries.

A Pig Matelote.

Kill and scald your pig the same as for roasting, cut off the head and petty-toes, cut the pig into four quarters, and put all into cold water; cover the bottom of a large stew-pan with slices of fat bacon, lay the quarters on, split the head in two and put on, with the petty toes, season it with pepper and salt, put in a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, some bay leaves, and a bottle of white wine; cover the pig with slices of bacon, put in a quart of water, cover it close, and let it boil; take two large eels, skin and gut them, cut them about five or six inches long, and when the pig has boiled three quarters of an hour put in the eels, cover them close, and stew them three quarters of an hour longer; in the mean time boil a dozen large crawfish, and take the meat out of the tails and claws as whole as you can; when your pig and eels are done take them up, lay the pig in the middle of the dish, the petty-toes round it, and the eels over it, cover it over and keep it hot; (do not put the head in, as that will make a cold dish of itself, garnished with [Page] parsley, for supper) take the liquor they were stewed in, skim off all the fat, then add to it half a pint of strong gravy, thicken it with butter rolled in flour, put in a spoonful of browning, boil it up till it is thick and smooth, skim it well, pour it over the pig, and garnish with the crawfish and lemon. You may take the brains out of the head, chop them up, mix them with a little flour, pepper, salt, and the yolk of an egg; have a pan of hot fat and drop them in, fry them crisp, put of hot fat and drop them in, fry them crisp, put them on a sieve to drain, and put them round the pig.

Pork Cutlets Sauce Robart.

Take a loin of pork, cut off the skin, and cut it into thin cutlets, lay them in a dish, put a gill of white wine, a gill of vinegar, an onion, a bundle of sweet herbs, two shallots, three or four bay leaves, a little all-spice and mace, into a sauce-pan, give them a boil up, and when cold put them over the cutlets, turn them often, and let them lay all night; the next day take them out, wipe them dry with a cloth, rub them over with the yolk of an egg, and sprin [...] [...] bread-crumbs and herbs, the same as for cutlets a [...]aintation, on them, broil them over a clear fire of a fine brown on both sides; lay them in a hot dish, and pour sauce robart, as directed in the chapter for sauces, over them; garnish with lemon.

Herrico of Venison.

Take a breast of venison, bone and skin it, cut it into four pieces and put it into a stew-pan, with a quart of gravy, half pint of red wine, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little cloves and mace, cover it close, and stew it gently for two hours; in the mean time cut carrots turneps, and but [...]n onions, the same as for herrico of mutton, and boil them tender; take the venison out, strait the gravy through a sieve, and skim off the fat; put two ounces of butter into a stew-pan, melt it, and put in a spoonful of flour, stir it till it is smooth, pour in the gravy, and keep it [Page] stirring till it boils; strain off the roots and put in, season it with a little Cayan pepper and salt, and give it a boil up; put the venison in the dish, and pour the herrico sauce over it.

A Goose a la Mode.

Take a fine large goose, pick and draw it, with a sharp knife begin at the breast and take all the meat off the bones, but leave the rump on whole, and be as careful as you can not to cut the back skin; bone a large fowl the same way, boil a neat's tongue till tender, peel it, and cut it so as to fit the inside of the fowl, season them with pepper, salt, and beaten mace, put the tongue in the fowl, the fowl in the goose, and tie it round with a thick string; (if you have room put some beef marrow between [...] and goose) put it into a deep stew-pan, with two quarts of good gravy, half a pint of red wine, [...]ndle of sweet herbs, and an onion stuck with [...]ves, cover it close, and stew it gently for two hours; when done, take out the goose, cover it over, and keep it hot; strain the gravy through a sieve, and skim off all the fat; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stew-pan, melt it, and put in a large spoonful of flour, stir it till it is smooth, pour in the gravy, and keep it stirring as before; skim it clean, season it with Cayan pepper and salt put in a spoonful of ketchup, the same of lemon pickle, a veal sweetbread boiled and cut in pieces, a quarter of an ounce of truffles and morels, a gill of pickled mushrooms, an artichoke bottom or two cut in pieces, and stew them for ten minutes; put in the go [...]se again for ten more, lay it in the dish, pour the sauce and ingredients over it, and garnish with lemon and beet root.

Ducks a la Mode.

Take a couple of fine ducks, pick, draw, and singe them, cut them into quarters, pepper, salt, and flour them; put some butter into a stew-pan, and fry them of a light brown; pour the fat out of the pan, [Page] shake a little flour over them, put in half a pint of gravy, half a pint of red wine, a bundle of sweet herbs, four, shallots chopped fine, an anchovy boned, end a little Cayan pepper, cover them close, and stew them for twenty minutes; then take out the herbs, skim off the fat, and let the sauce be as thick as cream; put the ducks in the dish, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Ducks a la Braize.

Take two ducks, pick, draw, and singe them, lard the breasts with small slips of bacon, and fill the insides with good veal force-meat; lay a layer of fat bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan, then a layer of lean beef or veal on the bacon, lay on the ducks with the larded side uppermost, put in a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion stuck with cloves, a carrot cut in pieces, two or three blades of mace, a quart of good brown gravy, with a gill of red wine, lay a layer of beef and bacon on the ducks, put them over a slow fire, with fire at the top, and braize them for one hour; then take out the ducks and keep them hot; strain the gravy through a sieve, skim off all the fat clean, put it into a stew-pan, with a piece of butter mixed with flour, a sweetbread boiled and cut in pieces, some truffles and morels blanched, some mushrooms, if fresh stewed first, if pickled washed in warm water, season, it with a little Cayan pepper, and squeeze in the juice of half a lemon; put the ducks in the dish, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Duck with Green Peas.

Pick, draw, singe, and flour a duck; put half a pound of butter into a deep stew-pan; make it hot, put in the duck, and fry it of a light brown; pour out all the fat, but let the duck remain in the pan, put to it a pint of good gravy, two onions chopped small, a pint of green peas, two or three cabbage [Page] lettuces cut across very small and well washed, a little pepper and salt, cover them close, and stew them for half an hour, now and then giving the pan a shake; when they are nearly done grate in a little nutmeg, a very little beaten mace, and thicken it with butter mixed with flour, or the yolks of two eggs beat up in a little cream; then shake it round for a few minutes, lay the duck in the dish, pour the sauce over it, and garnish with lemon.

Duck with Cucumbers.

Prepare your duck as for duck and peas; take four large cucumbers, pare them, take out the pulp, and cut them into small pieces, with two large onions cut in slices; fry the duck, and take it out; then put in the cucumbers and onions, give them a fry, dredge some flour in, put in a pint of good gravy, a gill of red wine, and some pepper and salt, put in the duck, stew it for half an hour, skim off the fat very clean; lay the duck in the dish, pour the sauce over in, and garnish with lemon.

Sweetbreads of Veal a la Dauphin.

Take three large sweetbreads and boil them for ten minutes; make a force-meat thus; take the fresh of a small fowl, half a pound of fat and lean bacon chopped fine, and heat together in a marble mortar, season it with beaten mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt, and mix it up with the yolks of two eggs; cut your sweetbreads in such a manner as to be capable of putting the force-meat in them without breaking the tops, fasten it in with fine wooden skewers, and lard the sweetbreads; lay a layer of fat bacon in a stew-pan, a thin layer of veal on the bacon, and put the sweet-breads on that, season them with cloves, mace, pepper, and salt, a bundle of sweet herbs, and a large onion sliced, upon that lay thin slices of veal and bacon, cover it close, and put it over a slow fire for ten minutes; then pour in a quart of veal broil, cover it close, and let it stew very gently for two hours; then [Page] carefully take out the sweetbreads and keep them hot, strain the gravy, skim off the fat, and boil it up till it is reduced to about half a pint, put in the sweetbreads, and stew them two or three minutes in the gravy; then put them in a dish, pour the gravy over them, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Sweetbreads on Gerdiniere.

Take three fine sweetbreads and parboil them; take a stew pan and lay a layer of fat bacon at the bottom, and a thin layer of veal on the bacon, put the sweetbreads on with the upper side downwards, put in a pint of veal broth, two or three blades of mace, and lay layers of veal and bacon over them, cover them close, and stew them gently for one hour; in the mean time make aumlet of eggs in the following manner: take the yolks of nine eggs, beat them up well, take three pewter plates and rub them with sweet oil, put one-third of the eggs in one, colour another third with the juice of spinach and put it in a plate, colour the other third with a little cochineal dissolved in brandy, put it in a plate, and cover them over with three plates; have a little boiling water in a shallow stew-pan, and put the plates in one at a time till the eggs are done; take them out of the plates and cut them into diamonds or sprigs, as you fancy; take the sweetbreads up, and put the aumlets over them in what shape you please, put them in a dish, with white cullis under them, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Sweetbreads a la Glaize.

Take three large sweetbreads, blanch them, and lard them with bacon, lay a layer of fat bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan, and lay a layer of veal, put in the sweetbreads the larded side uppermost, a quart of good gravy, and an onion stuck with cloves, put layers of veal and bacon over them, cover them close and stew them gently for three quarters of an hour; then take out the sweetbreads, strain the gravy [Page] through a fine sieve, skim off the fat, and put it into a stew-pan; boil it down till it is of a strong glaze, put the sweetbreads in the larded side downwards for a few minutes, and put them over a gentle fire to take the glaze; put sorrel sauce in a dish, put the sweetbreads in, and garnish with fried sippets.

Sweetbreads au Beshemel.

Take three throat and one heart sweetbread, and boil them for fifteen minutes; rub the heart sweetbread with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle bread crumbs over it, roast it, and cut the other into pieces; make a b [...]sh [...]n [...] as directed in the beginning of this chapter, put them in with some force-meat and egg-balls boiled, some pickled mushrooms washed in warm water, a few asparagus tops boiled, and give them a boil up; put them in a dish, and put the roasted in the middle; garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Turkey a la Doube.

Pick and draw your turkey, and with a sharp knife carefully bone it, stuff it with a good veal force-meat, and skewer it at the breast; put a layer of fat bacon at the bottom of a stew pan, and a layer of veal on the bacon, season it with beaten mace, cloves, nutmeg, pepper and salt, put in the turkey, with a quart of good gravy, a gill of white wine, an onion, and a bundle of sweet herbs, put layers of veal and bacon at the top, cover it close, put it over a slow fire, with fire at the top, and stew it gently for two hours; then take out the turkey, strain the gravy through a sieve, and skim off all the fat; put two ounces of butter into a stew-pan, melt it, and put in a spoonful of flour, stir it till it is smooth, and pour in the gravy, keeping it stirring all the time; then put in a sweetbread cut in pieces, some fresh mushrooms stewed, or pickled ones, some force-meat balls, truffles and morels, seasoned with Cayan pepper and salt: put in the turkey, stew it for ten minutes, and squeeze in the juice of a lemon; put the turkey in a dish, pour [Page] the sauce and ingredients over it, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Turkey a la Braize.

Pick and draw a turkey, bone it, and make the following force-meat; take the flesh of a fowl, a pound of lean veal, and half a pound of beef-suet, chop it small and beaf it in a mortar, with parsley, sweet herbs, lemon-peel shred fine, and a few crumbs of bread, season it with beaten mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt, mix it up with the yolks of two eggs, and stuff the turkey with it, skewer up the breast, dip the breast into boiling water, and lard it; lay a layer of fat bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan, and a layer of veal on the bacon, put the turkey on the larded side uppermost, put in a quart of gravy, a gill of white wine, some cloves and mace, and a bundle of sweet herbs, put a layer of veal and bacon over it, cover it close, and stew it gently for two hours; (put fire over as well as under it) then take out the turkey, strain off the gravy, and skim off the fat; put a little butter into a stew-pan, melt it, put in a spoonful of flour, and stir it till it is smooth; then pour in the gravy, boil it till it is quite smooth, and put in some mushrooms, truffles, and morels, artichoke bottoms, force-meat and egg-balls, put in the turkey, season it with Cayan pepper and salt, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and boil it up for ten minutes; put the turkey in a dish, pour the sauce over it, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Turkey a la Glaize.

Prepare your turkey the same as for a la braize, and when it is stewed enough take it up and keep it hot; strain off the gravy, take off the fat, and boil it in a large stew-pan till it is of a fine glaze; lay the breast of the turkey in to take the glaze, put forrel sauce in a dish, with the turkey on it, and garnish with fried sippets.

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Peregoe Turkey.

Take a turkey of about eight or nine pounds weight, draw and finge it, season the inside with pepper, salt, and mace, sweet herbs and parsley shred fine, stuff the belly and breast with good veal forcemeat, and truss it as for roasting; cut a slit down each side of the breast, fill it full of green truffles washed clean and cut in slices, put it into a deep dish, sprinkle a little Cayan pepper over it, pour on it a pint of Madeira wine, and let it lay in it all night; the next day butter a sheet of paper, and tie it over the breast to keep in the truffles, roast it one hour and a half, baste it a little with the wine, and then with butter; put the rest of the wine into a stew-pan, with a little good brown gravy, some butter mixed with flour, a spoonful of India soy or mushroom ketchup a little pepper and salt, and the juice of half a lemon; stew it for fifteen minutes, baste the turkey, then take it up, take off the paper, put it into a dish, pour the sauce under it, and garnish with lemon.

Fowl a la Braize.

Take a fine fowl, draw and singe it, truss it with the legs turned into the belly, season it both inside and out with beaten mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt; lay a layer of fat bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan, then a layer of veal, and afterwards the fowl; put an onion stuck with cloves, a bundle of sweet herbs, a piece of carrot, and a layer of veal and bacon over it, and some thin slices of lean beef over all, cover it close and sweet it over a slow fire for five minutes; then pour in a pint of broth, cover it close and stew it gently for one hour; take out the fowl, strain the gravy through a sieve, and skim off, all the fat; then put it into a stew-pan, with a little butter mixed with flour, a spoonful of browning, a few cocks-combs, mushrooms, truffles and morels, artichoke bottoms, or asparagus tops boiled, and stew it up; then put in the fowl, make it hot, [Page] season it with pepper and salt, and squeeze in the juice of a lemon; when all is ready, put the fowl in a dish, pour the sauce over it, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Fowl a la Farce.

Take a large fowl, pick and draw it, slit the skin down the back, and carefully take it off, pick all the meat clean off the bones, and mince it very small, with [...] a pound of beef-suet, half a pint of oysters blanched and bearded, two anchovies, a shallot, a few bread-crumbs, some sweet herbs, parsley, and lemon-peel shred fine, season it with a little mace, pepper, and salt, mix it all up with the yolks of eggs, lay it on the bones, put the skin on again, and few it up, lie some slices of fat bacon over it very tight, put some skewers through it, and roast it one hour; take half a pint of brown cullis, put it into a stew-pan, with some cocks-combs, mushrooms, truffles and morels, and give it a boil up; when the fowl is done, put the sauce in the dish, take the bacon off the fowl, put it one the sauce, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Fowl a la Glaize.

Take a fine fowl, pick, draw, and singe it, truss it as for boiling, lard the breast, stuff the inside with good force meat, and the breast likewise; lay a layer of bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan, and a layer of veal on the bacon, put in the fowl the breast uppermost, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little mace, an onion stuck with cloves, and a pint of good gravy, put a layer of veal and bacon over it, cover it close and stew it for one hour; then take up the fowl, strain the gravy through a sieve, skim off the fat very clean, put it into a stew-pan again, boil it till it is of a strong glaze, and put the fowl in, with the breast downwards, to take the glaze; have the following sauce ready; take half a pint of fresh mushrooms, put them into a stew-pan with a little butter, and stew them over a slow fire for five minutes, then put in half a pint of white cullis, some truffles and morels, [Page] cocks-combs, an artichoke bottom cut in pieces, and give them a stew for ten minutes; put it into a dish, put the fowl on breast upwards, and garnish with fried sippets, or lemon and beet-root.

Pullets a la Sainte Menchout.

Take two fine pullets, pick, draw, and singe them, truss the legs in the bodies, slit them down the back, spread them open on the table, and take out the [...]high bones, beat them well with a rolling pin, and season them with beaten mace, nutmeg, pepper, salt, and sweet herbs shred fine; take a pound and a half of loan veal, cut it into thin slices, and lay it in a stew-pan of a convenient size to hold the pullets in, cover it, set it over the stove, and when it begins to stick to the pan shake the pan about till it is of a fine brown; then put in as much broth as will stew the fowls, stir it together, and put in an onion, a little whole pepper, and half a pound of lean ham or bacon; then lay in the pullets, cover them close, and stew them for half an hour; then take them up, rub the tops with the yolks of an egg, and sprinkle breadcrumbs over them; put them on a gridiron over a clear fire, and broil them of a fine brown on both sides; strain the gravy, skim off the fat, boil it till there is just enough for sauce, thicken it with butter mixed with flour, and put in a gill of pickled mushrooms, a spoonful of ketchup, a little browning, a little pepper and salt, and boil it till it is smooth; put the pullets in the dish, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

To Marinate Fowls.

Take a fine large fowl or two middling-sized once, and raise the skin from the breast-bone with your finger; then take a veal sweetbread blanched, a dozen oysters blanched and bearded, a gill of fresh mushrooms, one anchovy, all chopped fine, a few sweet herbs, parsley, and lemon-peel shred fine, season it with pepper, salt, and beaten mace, mix the [Page] ingredients with the yolk of an egg, stuff it in between the skin and the flesh, (but do it very gently, for fear you should bread the skin) stuff the body full of oysters well washed and bearded, and lard the breast with bacon, put skewers in as for roasting, spit it, paper the breast, and roast it three quarters of an hour; when done, put it into a hot dish, and put good gravy under it, garnish with lemon and beet-root.

A small turkey may be dressed the same way.

Fowls Frangas Incopadas.

Take a pound of loan ham or gammon of bacon cut in thin slices, two onions cut in thin slices, four shallots, with two quarts of water, a little beaten pepper, cloves, and mace, and a penny worth of saffron, stew it gently till it is reduced to three pints, and strain it through a sieve; cut two fowls as for a fricassee, put them into a stew-pan with the broth, and stew them till they are tender; mix two spoonsful of flour with two of vinegar, beat it up with some of the liquor till it is quite smooth, then mix the whole together, season it with Cayan pepper and salt to your palate, and boil it gently for ten minutes; put sippets in a soup-dish and put it over them.

You may add force-meat and egg-balls if you think proper.

You may make a frangas incopadas of veal, in the form of olives, instead of fowls.

Chickens a la Braize.

Take two fine chickens, truss them in the same manner as for boiling, singe them, and lard the breasts, season them inside and out with beaten mace, pepper, and salt; lay a layer of fat bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan, and a layer of veal over the bacon, put in the chickens the larded side uppermost, with an onion stuck with cloves, a bundle of sweet herbs, a piece of carrot, and a quart of veal broth; put a layer of veal and bacon over, cover them close, and [Page] stew them gently for three quarters of an hour; (put fire over as well as under them) have ready a ragou made thus: take a pint of brown cullis put into a stew-pan, with a veal sweetbread boiled and cut in pieces, a few fresh mushrooms stewed, truffles and morels, cocks-combs, force-meat and egg-balls boiled, an ox-palate boiled tender and cut in pieces, and stew them together for ten minutes; take up the chickens, lay them in a dish, cover them over to keep hot, strain the gravy through a sieve, skim off all the fat, pour half a pint into the ragou, and give it a boil up; then pour it over the chickens, and garnish with lemon and beet-root. Or you may make your sauce thus: take the gravy the chickens were stewed in, strain it, and skim off the fat, put it into a stew-pan, with half a pint of oysters blanched and bearded, and the oyster liquor strained, a glass of white wine, some pepper and salt, and a piece of butter mixed with flour; boil it up till it is thick and smooth, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, pour it over the chickens, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Chickens Chiringrate.

Take two chickens, pick, draw, and singe them, cut off the feet, and break the breast-bones flat with a rolling-pin, but take care you do not break the skins, flour them, and fry them of a fine brown in fresh butter; then drain all the fat out of the pan, but leave in the chickens, cut a piece of lean beef in thin slices and lay over them, with a pound of loan veal in the same manner, a little mace and whole pepper, an onion stuck with cloves, a bundle of sweet herbs, and a piece of carrot, pour in a quart of boiling water and a gill of white wine, cover them close and stew them for half an hour; then take up the chickens, put them in a dish, cover them over, and keep them hot; let the gravy boil till it is rich and good, then strain it off, skim off all the fat, put it into your stew-pan again, with a gill of pickled mushrooms, [Page] season it with pepper and salt, put your chickens in again, and give them a boil up; put them in a dish, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with lemon and some slices of cold ham broiled.

Chickens Surprize.

Take two small chickens and half roast them, take all the lean from the bones, cut it in thin slices about an inch long, mix it up with six or seven spoonsful of cream and a piece of butter rolled in flour as big as a walnut, give it a boil up, and set it to cool; then cut six or seven slices of bacon thin and round, place them in a patty-pan, and put some good veal force meat on each side, work them up in the form of a French roll, with the yolk of a raw egg, in your hand, but leave a hollow place in the middle; put in your chickens, cover them with some of the same force meat, and rub it smooth with your hand and the yolk of an egg; make them as high and as big as a French roll, sprinkle some fine bread-crumbs over them, put them on a baking tin, and bake them three quarters of an hour; (but mind you place them so as not to touch one another, and lay the [...]a in such a manner that they will not fall flat in the baking; or you may form them with a broad kitchen knife on your dresser, and put them on the plate or dish you intend to bake them on) when they are done take them out, put them in a dish, stick a leg of one of the chickens in the middle of the roll you intend to send up, and let your sauce be gravy thickened with butter, and the juice of a lemon. This is a pretty side dish for either summer or winter.

Artificial Chickens or Pigeons.

In order to do this, you must take the flesh of a large fowl, lean veal, or lamb, and to a pound of flesh put half a pound of beef or veal suet, and half a pound of fat bacon chopped together very fine, beat it in a marble mortar, with some crumbs of [Page] bread, a little parsley, thyme, and lemon-peel shred fine, season it with beaten mace, pepper and salt, and mix it up with the yolks of eggs; then make it into the shape of chickens or pigeons, put them on a tin plate, and stick in two feet to make them look like real ones, (chickens feet for chickens, and pigeons feet for pigeons) rub them over with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle bread crumbs over them, (take care they do not touch one another) and bake them of a light brown; put them in a dish, with a little good gravy under them, or send them up dry, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

P [...]lied Chickens.

Take two chickens, and either boil or roast them just fit for eating, cut off the legs, rumps, and pinions, rub them over with the yolks of eggs, sprinkle bread-crumbs on them, and broil them over a clear fire of a nice brown; pull the skin off the remaining part, take all the flesh off the bones, pull or cut it about as thick as a straw, and an inch and a half long; have a gill of cream boiling, with a little butter and salt in it, put in the white meat, and the gravy that run from the chickens, and give it a toss up; then put it into a dish, the rumps in the middle, and the legs and pinions round it.

Pigeons a la Doube.

Pick draw, and singe six pigeons, truss them as for boiling, stuff the insides and crops with good force-meat, and flatten the breast; put a layer of fat bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan, and a layer of lean beef over the bacon, put the pigeons on, with a quart of good gravy, a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion stuck with cloves, a little mace, pepper and salt, put a layer of beef and bacon over them, cover them close, put them over a slow fire, with fire at the top of the stew-pan, and stew them for three quarters of an hour; then take them out, strain the gravy through a sieve, skim off all the fat, [Page] put it into a stew-pan, with a piece of butter mixed with flour, a gill of white wine, a few fresh or pickled mushrooms, truffles and morels, force-meat balls, and the yolks of six hard eggs, season it with Cayan pepper and salt, put the pigeons in, cover them close, and stew them gently for half an hour; then skim the fat off clean, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and shake them about; put the pigeons in a dish, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Pigeons au Poire.

Take six pigeons and bone them, stuff them, with good force-meat, and make them in the shape of a pear, with one foot stuck in the small end to look like the stalk, rub them over with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle bread crumbs on them, and fry them of a fine brown in a pan of boiling hot beefdripping; put them on a sieve to drain, then put them into a stew-pan, with a pint of gravy, a gill of white wine, an onion stuck with cloves, and a bundle of sweet herbs, cover them close, and stew them for half an hour; then take them, the onion and sweet herbs out, skim the fat off the gravy, put in some butter mixed with flour, a spoonful of ketchup, the same of browning, some truffles and morels, pickled mushrooms, two artichoke bottoms cut in six pieces each, and a few force-meat and egg-balls; season it with Cayan pepper and salt, put in the juice of half a lemon, and stew it five minutes; then put in your pigeons, make them hot, lay them with the stalkend inwards and the breast outwards, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Pigeons stoved.

Take six pigeons, pick, and truss them with the legs in the sides: take a fine cabbage lettuce, cut out the heart, wash it clean, and chop it very fine, mix it with good force-meat, force the inside of the pigeons and the lettuce, tie the lettuce across [Page] to keep in the force-meat, and fry it of a light brown in fresh butter; pour out all the fat, lay the pigeons in round the lettuce, season them with beaten mace, pepper and salt, and put in half a pint of Rhenish wine, cover them close, and stew them five or six minutes; then put in a pint of good gravy and a piece of butter mixed with flour, cover them close, and stew them half an hour; uncover them, skim off all the fat very clean, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and give them a shake round; put the lettuce in the middle of the dish, the pigeons round it, pour the sauce over all, and garnish with pickled red cabbage.

For a change, you may stuff the pigeons with force-meat; cut two or three cabbage lettuces in quarters, and stew with them as above; lay the lettuce between each pigeon in the dish, and pour the sauce over them.

Pigeons Surtout.

Truss six fine pigeons for roasting, and stuff the insides with force-meat, then put a thin slice of fat bacon on the breasts, and a thin slice of veal over that, seasoned with mace, pepper and salt; tie the veal and bacon on with packthread, put them on a bird spit, and tie them on another, rub them all over with yolks off eggs, and sprinkle bread-crumbs and sweet herbs on them, roast them and baste them well with butter; when they are done take them up, cut off the packthread, lay them in a dish, and have good gravy, with mushrooms, truffles and morels stewed in it, pour it in the dish but not over the pigeons, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Pigeons Compote.

Take six young pigeons and truss them as for boiling, stuff the insides and the crops with a light force-meat, and lard the breasts, put them into a stew-pan with a quart of brown cullis, and stew them for one hour; put in a few pickled mushrooms, truffles and morels, two artichoke bottoms cut in pieces, the yolks of six hard eggs, season them with [Page] Cayan pepper and salt, and give them a stew for five minutes; then put the pigeons in the dish, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

French Pupton of pigeons.

Take a tin or copper patty-pan and butter it; make a large piece of savory veal force-meat, roll a sheet out like a paste and put in, lay a thin layer of fat bacon on the force-meat, then put in squab pigeons, as many as you want to fill the patty-pan, and season them with pepper and salt; lay over them a sweetbread cut in slices, asparagus tops, mushrooms, cocks-comb, and an ox-palate boiled tender and cut in pieces, with the yolks of six hard eggs; roll another piece of force-meat and put over, close it like a pie, ornament the top as you please, and bake it in a gentle oven for two hours; when it is done slip it into a dish, make a hole in the top, pour half a pint of good gravy in, and send it up hot to table.

Pigeons transmographied.

Take four pigeons, cut off their legs, and truss them as neat as you can, season them with pepper and salt; take a pound of butter and rub it in a pound of flour, make it into a stiff paste, and roll each pigeon in a piece of paste; tie them separate in a cloth, so as the paste will not break, boil them one hour and a half in a large pot of water; then take them up, untie them, take care that they do not break, lay them in a dish, and pour in a little gravy. You may leave the gravy out, for when they are cut there will be plenty of gravy.

Pigeons in Fricandeux.

Take four fine large pigeons, truss them as for roasting, stuff the insides with force-meat, cut off the pinions and feet, and lard the breasts; lay a layer of fat bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan, and [Page] a layer of veal on the bacon, put in the pigeons, with a pint of gravy, a gill of white wine, a little beaten mace, pepper, and salt, and a bundle of sweet herbs, put a layer of veal and bacon at the top, cover them close, put fire under and over them, and stew them for one hour; then take out the pigeons, strain off the gravy, skim off the fat, put the gravy into a stew-pan, and boil it till there is just enough for sauce, put in the pigeons breast-side downwards, and give them a boil up for five minutes; then put them in a dish breast upwards, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

You may put a few large truffles and the yolks of four hard eggs into the sauce, and lay them round the pigeons in the dish.

Pigeons with a Farce.

Take four or six large pigeons, make a farce with the livers minced small, as much beef-suet or marrow, a few bread-crumbs and hard eggs, of each an equal quantity, season it with beaten mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, sweet herbs chopped fine, and mix them all together with the yolk of an egg; then cut the skin of your pigeons between the legs and the bodies, and with your finger very carefully raise it from the flesh, but take care you do not break it, then put in the farce, truss the legs close, to keep it in, spit, roast, and baste them well with butter; save the gravy which runs from them, and mix it up with a little red wine and some of the farce, (if not enough for sauce put in a little made gravy) a little nutmeg, pepper and salt, thickened with the yolk of an egg beat up, and give it a boil; lay the pigeons in a dish, pour the sauce in it, and garnish with doubled parsley.

Pigeons a la Souffel.

Take four large pigeons and bone them, stuff them with veal force-meat, put them into a stew-pan with a pint of veal gravy, cover them close, and [Page] stew them gently for half an hour; then take them out and let them stand a little time, rub them over with the yolk of an egg, wrap them up in good veal force-meat, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, and fry them brown in a large pan of beefdripping, put them on a sieve before the fire to drain, take the gravy they were stewed in, skim off the fat, thicken it with butter mixed with flour, and season it with pepper and salt, beat up the yolk of an egg in a little cream and put in, and shake it one way for a minute; put the pigeons in the dish, strain the sauce over them, and garnish with fried parsley.

You may leave out the egg and cream, and put in a spoonful of browning, one of ketchup, and one of lemon pickle, if you think proper.

Pigeons in Pimlico.

Take five large pigeons, pick, draw, truss, and singe them; take the livers, with some fat and lean ham or bacon, mushrooms, a few truffles, parsley, and sweet herbs, all shred fine, seasoned with pepper and salt, mix it up with the yolks of two raw eggs, stuff the bellies with it, roll them in a thin slice of veal, and over that a thin slice of bacon, put white paper only over all, tie it on with packthread, put them on a small spit, and roast them for one hour, but mind and baste them well with butter: in the mean time make for them a ragou thus: put half a pint of good gravy into a stew-pan, with a glass of white wine, some truffles, fresh mushrooms, and parsley chopped small, little pepper and salt, thicken it with a piece of butter mixed with flour, and stew it for a quarter of an hour; when they are done take them up, take off the paper, put them in a dish, pour your sauce over them, and garnish with six force-meat pet [...]it patties.

Jugged Pigeons.

Pick and draw six pigeons, but do not wash them boil the livers a minute or two, then take them [Page] out, mince them small, and bruise them with the back of a spoon, mix them with the yolks of two hard eggs, parsley, and lemon-peel shred very fine, as much beef-suet as liver shaved very fine, the same quantity of crumbs of bread, seasoned with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, work it up with a raw egg and a little fresh butter, stuff the crops and bellies with it, sew up the necks and vents, then dip your pigeons in warm water, and season them with pepper and salt as for a pie, put them in a jug, with a head of cellery, a bundle of sweet herbs, a few cloves and mace beat fine, and a gill of white wine, tie them down close with strong paper, and put the jug into a pot of cold water up to the top, but not to run in or wet the paper, put a tile over the jug, and boil them gently for three hours; then take them out of the jug, strain the liquor into a stew-pan, put in a little butter mixed with flour, give it a boil up till it is thick, pour it over the pigeons, and garnish with lemon.

Pigeons a la Italienne

Take four young full-grown pigeons, pick, draw, and truss them, put a gridiron over a clear fire, put them on, and turn them round two or three times for two minutes; then take them off, tie the legs to the bodies, that they may be round and tight; take a stew-pan, and lay at the bottom and round the sides some slices of veal and ham, put the pigeons in, and sprinkle them with pepper and salt, put in some blades of mace, a sprig of basil, some coriander-seeds, some slices of lemon, and onion, a little garlick, a glass of strong white wine, and half as much oil; then lay over them some slices of ham and veal, cover them close, put them on a slow fire, and stew them one hour; in the mean time make a ragou thus, cut some fresh mushrooms and champinions small, put a gill of oil into a stew-pan, a little garlick and shallot chopped fine, with the mushrooms and champinions, and sot them over the [Page] fire one minute; then pour in some veal gravy, a glass of white wine, little essence of ham, and let all these heat together; then put in a sliced lemon, stir it about, and skim off the fat; then put the ragou into a [...] tinned stew-pan, take the pigeons out of the stew-pan they were stewed in and wipe them, that they may be quite dry, put them into the ragou, make them quite hot, put them into a dish, and garnish with lemon.

Partridges a la Braize.

Take two brace of partridges, truss the legs into the bodies, lard the breasts, season them with pepper, salt, and a little beaten mace; take a stew-pan, lay slices of fat bacon at the bottom, then thin slices of veal and beef, a piece of carrot, an onion cut in slices, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little mace and whole pepper, lay the partridges in with the breasts upwards, lay some slices of veal and beef over them, and strew chopped parsley on them, cover them close, and put them over a slow fire for ten minutes; give your pan a shake, pour in a pint of boiling water and a gill of white wine, cover it close, and stew it a little quicker for half an hour; then take out the birds, strain the liquor off, and skim off the fat, put it to a pint of good brown cullis, with a sweetbread cut in pieces, some truffles and morels, cocks-combs, two or three fowls livers if you can get them, two artichoke bottoms cut in pieces, asparagus tops boiled, and mushrooms, fresh or pickled, stew them for a quarter of an hour, then put in the partridges, make them hot, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, put the partridges in the dish breasts upwards, pour the ragou over them, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Partridge Panes.

Take two partridges and roast them, parboil a large fowl, pick the flesh off the bones and chop it fine, with half a pound of fat bacon boiled, a few [Page] fresh mushrooms, truffles and morels, two artichoke bottoms boiled tender, season it with beaten mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt, some sweet herbs and parsley chopped fine, soak the crumb of a penny loaf in hot gravy, and mix all well together with the yolks of four eggs; make your panes on white paper of any shape or figure you fancy, the thickness of an egg, and at a proper distance from one another, rub them over with the yolks of eggs, sprinkle bread-crumbs over them, and bake them a quarter of an hour in a quick oven; when they are done put them in a hot dish, with good gravy under them.

Pheasants a la Braize.

Take a brace of pheasants, pick, draw, and truss them as for boiling, lard the breasts, and stuff the insides with good force-meat; lay a layer of bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan, and a layer of veal on the bacon, put on the pheasants breasts uppermost, with a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion stuck with cloves, a quart of good gravy, a gill of red wine, a little beaten mace, pepper and salt, put a layer of veal and bacon at the top, cover them close, set them over a gentle fire, put fire at the top, and let them braize gently for one hour and a half; then take out the pheasants, strain the gravy through a sieve, and skim the fat off clean; put about two ounces of butter into a stew-pan, melt it, put in a spoonful of flour, stir it till it is smooth, pour in the gravy and boil it till it is smooth; then put in a sweetbread, boiled and cut in pieces, and artichoke bottom cut in pieces, a few truffles and morels, fresh mushrooms stewed, or pickled ones, some asparagus tops boiled, if you have them, the yolks of four hard eggs, and a dozen force-meat balls boiled, stew them all together for fifteen minutes; then put in the pheasants and make them hot, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, put them in a dish breasts upwards, [Page] pour the sauce and ingredients over them, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Florendine Hare.

Take a full-grown hare and hang it up four or five days, then case it, leave the ears on whole, take out all the bones except the head, lay the hare on the dresser, and put in the following force-meat: take half a pound of lean veal, half a pound of fat bacon, beat it well in a mortar, with the crumb of a penny loaf, the liver shred fine, and anchovy, a little parsley and sweet herbs shred fine, season it with pepper and salt, mix it up with a glass of red wine and the yolks of two eggs, put it into the hare's belly, roll it up to the head, and skewer it with the head and ears leaning back, tie it with packthread as you would a collar of veal, wrap it in a cloth, and put it into a stew-pan with two quarts of water, stew it one hour and a half, and when the liquor is reduced to one quart, put in a pint of red wine, a spoonful of lemon pickle, one of ketchup, and one of browning; then take out the hare and keep it hot, stew the liquor till it is reduced to a pint, thicken it with butter mixed with flour, season it with Cayan pepper and salt; take the hare out of the cloth, untie it, and lay it in a dish, pull the jaw-bones out, stick them in the eyes, and a sprig of myrtle in the mouth, pour the sauce over it, and garnish with fried force-meat balls.

To scare a Hare.

Case a fine hare, truss and stuff it the same as for roasting, lard it, put it into a long stew-pan or fishkettle, with two quarts of good gravy, one of red wine, a lemon cut in two, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little whole pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a few cloves, cover it close, and stew it over a slow fire till it is three parts done; then take it up, put it into a dish, and strew it over with crumbs of bread, sweet herbs chopped fine, some lemon-peel grated, and half a nutmeg grated, set it before the fire and baste it with butter, [Page] keep turning the dish round till it is of a fine brown: in the mean time take about a pint of the gravy it was stewed in free from sat, thicken it with butter mixed with flour, take six eggs boiled hard and chopped fine, six pickled cucumbers cut in thin slices, and mixed with the sauce, pour it in the dish, and put the hare in; garnish with water-cresses.

Hare Civet.

Case and bone the hare, make gravy of the bones and a pound of lean beef, stew the head whole in the gravy, cut one half into thin slices, and, the other half in pieces an inch thick, flour and fry them quick in fresh butter, in the same manner as collops; put a pint of the gravy into a pan, a spoonful of made mustard, a little elder vinegar, cover it close, and let it stew gently till it is as thick as cream; split the head in two, lay the hare in the dish, and put the head in the middle; garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Rabbits Surprise.

Take two half-grown rabbits and roast them, cut off the heads close to the shoulders and the first joints, then take all the lean meat off the back bones, cut it small and toss it up with six or seven spoonsful of cream or milk, and a piece of butter as big as a walnut mixed with flour▪ a little grated nutmeg and salt, shake all together till it is as thick as good cream, and set it to cool; then make a force-meat with a pound of lean veal, a pound of suet, as much crumbs of bread, two anchovies chopped fine, and beat all in a marble mortar, with a little lemon-peel, parsley, and sweet herbs shred fine, season it with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, mix it up with the yolks of two raw eggs, place it all round the bones of the rabbits, leaving a long trough in the back-bone open, so that it will hold the meat you cut out with the sauce, pour it in and cover it with force-meat, smooth it all over with your hands as well as you can with a raw egg, square it at both ends, and sprinkle on some fine bread▪ [Page] crumbs; butter a mazarine or pan, take them from the dresser where you formed them, place them on it very carefully, and bake them three quarters of an hour till they are of a fine brown; then put them in a dish, and let your sauce be gravy thickened with flour and butter, and the juice of a lemon, pour the sauce in the dish; garnish with Seville orange cut in quarters, and send it up for a first course.

Rabbits in Cassorole.

Take two young rabbits and cut them in quarters, (you may lard them or not, as you think proper) shake some flour over them, and fry them of a light brown with fresh butter; then put them into and earthen pipkin, with a quart of good broth, a gill of white wine, a little pepper and salt, a bundle of sweet herbs, and about two ounces of butter mixed with flour, cover them close, and stew them for half an hour; skim them clean, take out the sweet herbs, then dish them up, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with Seville orange; notch and cut in slices the peeling that is cut off, and lay it between the slices of orange.

Florendine Rabbits.

Take three young rabbits, skin them, but leave on the ears, wash them, dry them with a cloth, and carefully take out all the bones, but leave the head whole, stuff and treat them in the same manner as a hare florendine, and boil them one hour; have ready a white sauce, made with a pint of veal gravy, a little anchovy liquor, thickened with butter mixed with flour, beat up the yolk of an egg in a gill of cream, grate a little nutmeg in, and put it to the gravy; let it simmer two or three minutes, but not boil, and squeeze in the juice of half a lemon; put the rabbits in the dish, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with Seville orange cut in slices or quarters.

Portugal Chickens.

At a time of the year when chickens are scarce, [Page] take two young rabbits, skin them, cut off the heads, turn the backs upwards, and two of the legs on the rabbit stripped to the claws, truss them with skewers like chickens, lard and roast them; put them in a dish, with good gravy under them, and garnish with lemon and beet-root, with parsley and butter and gravy in boats.

Currey of Chickens.

Take two chickens, skin them, cut them up as for a fricassee, wash them clean, and stew them in a pint and a half of water for about five minutes; then strain off the liquor and put the chickens in a clean dish; chop three large onions small, and fry them in two ounces of butter, then put in the chickens, and fry them together till they are both brown; get a bottle of curry powder, strew it over the chickens when frying, pour in the liquor they were stewed in, and stew them for half an hour; if it is not seasoned high enough, put in a little Cayan pepper, as sometimes the currey powder is not hot enough, and squeeze in the juice of a lemon; then dish them up, with the sauce over them, and garnish with lemon.

Wash and pick a pound of rice, put it into two quarts of boiling water, with a piece of butter and a little salt, and boil it gently till it is tender; then strain it in a cullender, put it before the fire for ten minutes to drain and dry; have six eggs boiled hard, put the rice in a dish, garnish it with the eggs cut in two, and send it up with the currey.

Larks Pear Fashion.

Take twelve larks, truss them close, and cut off the legs, season them with beaten cloves, mace, pepper, and salt, wrap them up in good veal force-meat, and shape them like a pear, sticking one leg at the small end like the stalk, rub them over with the yolk of an egg, and sprinkle bread crumbs over them; butter a dish, put them in, and bake them half an [Page] hour; put them into a hot dish, with gravy in a boat. They are a fine garnish for large dishes.

Woodcocks or Snipes in a Surtout.

Take three woodcocks, or five snipes, take out the trails, and half roast them; make a large quantity of good veal force-meat, roll a sheet out, put it at the bottom of a dish, and lay in the woodcocks or snipes, chop the trails and throw over them; take a pint of good gravy, a gill of fresh mushrooms, a few truffles and morels, a sweetbread boiled and cut in pieces, artichoke bottoms cut in little pieces, stew them altogether for ten minutes, and shake them round often; beat up the yolks of three eggs with a little white wine, and stir altogether one way till it is thick; then take it off and set it to cool; when cold, pour it into the surtout, put in the yolks of hard eggs here and there, season it with beaten mace, pepper and salt to your taste, cover it over with force-meat, and ornament it with a knife as you fancy; rub it over with the yolk of an egg, send it to the oven, and bake it half an hour; when done, send them to table hot.

To Salmee Woodcocks or Snipes.

Take the trails out, half roast them, cut them in quarters, and put them in a stew-pan, with a little gravy, two shallots shred fine, a glass of red wine, a little salt and Cayan pepper, the juice of half a lemon, the trails chopped fine, cover them, close, and stew them for ten minutes; make a dry toast, cut it in quarters, pour the salmee over it, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

To Salmee a Wild Duck, or any Sort of Wild Fowl.

Half roast them, and cut them up as for eating; put a gill of gravy, a gill of red wine, six shallots chopped fine, the [...] of a Seville orange or lemon, some Cayan peppe [...] [...]d salt, into a silver chaffing-dish, and set it over a lamp till it boils up; then put [Page] in the wild fowl, put on the cover, make it thoroughly hot, and send it to table in the chaffing-dish. If you have not a chaffing-dish, stew it in a stew-pan, pour it into a hot dish, cover it over, and send it to table as hot as you can.

Macaroni a la Parmazan.

Take a quarter of a pound of small pipe macaroni, put it into two quarts of boiling water, with a bit of butter, and boil it till it is tender; then strain it in a sieve and let it drain, grate half a pound of Parmazan cheese, put the macaroni into a stew-pan, with a gill of cream, two ounces of butter, a few bread-crumbs, and half the cheese, stir it about till the cheese and butter are melted; then put the macaroni into a dish, sprinkle the rest of the cheese over it, and with a salamander or hot iron make it of a fine brown, and send it to table as hot as possible.

A Mock Turtle.

Take a fine large calf's head with the skin on, scald it and wash it clean, and boil it three quarters of an hour; then take it up and slit it down the face, take the skin and meat off the head as whole and clean as possible, but be careful you do not break the cars, lay it on a dresser, fill the ears with force-meat, and tie them round with cloths; take out the eyes, and cut the meat from the [...]ones; peel the tongue and cut it in slices, with the fat and best parts of another head, without the skin and boiled as long as the above, cut in slices; put the slices into a stew-pan with the skin on, (the skin side downwards) three quarts of veal gravy, cover it close, and stew it gently for one hour over a gentle fire; then put in three sweetbreads boiled and cut in pieces, half a pint of fresh mushrooms, one ounce of truffles and morels, four artichoke bottoms, each cut in four, an anchovy boned and cut small, and seasoned hi [...] with Cayan pepper and salt; put in three pints o [...] Madeira wine, two spoonsful of ketchup, one of lemon pickle, a quarter [Page] of a pound of butter mixed with flour, and let it all stew half an hour longer; skim it well, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and put in the yolks of six hard eggs; boil the two brains, cut them in square bits about as big as a large nutmeg, and dip them in a stiff butter; have a pan of hot fat, fry them of a nice brown, and put them on a sieve before the fire to drain; make a rich force-meat, roll it in a veal caul, then in a cloth, and boil it one hour; cut it in three parts, the middle piece the largest, put the meat in the dish, lay the head over it the skin side uppermost, take the cloths off the ears, put the largest piece between them, and make the tops of the ears to meet round it, which is called the crown of the turtle; lay the other slices of force-meat on the narrow end, put some of the artichoke bottoms, eggs, mushrooms, and brains all over it, put the gravy boiling hot over it, and send it away as quick as possible, as it soon gets cold.

CHAP. XII.
RAGOUS.

BEEF.

TAKE about six or eight pounds of the thin flank of beef, that has fat at the top, cut square, or any piece of beef that is all meat and has fat at the top, the rump will suit well, cut the meat from the bone, and flour it all over; put half a pound of butter into a stew-pan, and fry it of a nice brown all over; pour out the fat and put in two quarts of good gravy, a pint of white wine, a bundle of sweet herbs, two or three shallots, and a blade of garlick chopped fine, some whole pepper, cloves, and mace, cover in close, [Page] and stew it gently for four hours; then take out the beef, strain off the gravy, and skim off the fat; put four ounces of butter into a stew-pan, and melt it, put in two spoonsful of flour, and stir it till it is smooth, then with one hand pour in the gravy, and keep it stirring with the other as before; season it with Cayan pepper and salt, put in a veal sweetbread cut in pieces, an ox palate boiled tender and cut in pieces, a gill of pickled mushrooms, half an ounce of truffles and morels blanched and washed well, two dozen force-meat balls boiled, and an artichoke bottom or two cut in pieces; then put in the beef, with a spoonful of elder vinegar, stew it fifteen minutes, and skim it well; put the beef in the dish, pour the sauce over i [...], and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

For variety, you may cut the white part of a dozen heads of cellery about two inches long, boil it in water till it is tender, and put in instead of the other ingredients; or when cucumbers are in season, pare six of them, take out the cores, stew them in some of the gravy, and put them over the beef.

Ox Palates.

Take [...]our ox palates, put them into a pot of water, and boil them till the two skins will come off, take off the skins, wash them clean, cut two in square pieces and two in long pieces; take a quart of good brown cullis and put them in, with some fresh or pickled mushrooms, truffles and morels, the yolks of four hard eggs, a dozen of force-meat balls boiled, two artichoke bottoms boiled tender, and stew them for twenty minutes; put them into a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with beet-root and lemon.

Neck of Veal.

Take the best end of a neck of veal, cut it into chops, flatten them with a cleaver, season them with beaten cloves, mace, pepper, and salt, and lard them on one side, sprinkle them over with lemon-peel, [Page] sweet herbs, and parsley shred fine; butter half sheets of paper, wrap them in, and broil them very gently over a clear fire for half an hour; in the mean time take a pint of brown cullis, put in tuffles and morels, pickled mushrooms, an artichoke bottom cut in pieces, some force-meat and egg-balls boiled, and boil them up five minutes; put it in a dish the larded side uppermost, pour the ragou over it, and garnish with fried oysters, beet-root, or lemon.

Breast of Veal.

Take about six pounds of a breast of veal, cut it in square pieces, pepper, salt, and flour it, fry it brown in fresh butter; then pour in a quart of good gravy and a gill of white wine, put in a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion chopped fine, cover it close, and stew it till it is tender; skim it well and take out the sweet herbs; if it is not thick enough, put in some butter mixed with flour, some truffles and morels, pickled or fresh mushrooms stewed, the sweetbread boiled and cut in pieces, an ox palate boiled tender and cut in pieces, some force-meat and egg-balls, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, season it with pepper and salt to your palate, and stew it for fifteen minutes longer; put the meat in the dish, pour the ragou over it, and garnish with lemon and beet-root, fried oysters, or small patties.

Another Way.

Half roast a breast of veal, cut it in square pieces, and put it into a stew-pan, with a quart of gravy, half a pint of white wine, a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion stuck with cloves, some pepper and salt, cover it close, and stew it one hour; then take out the veal, pull the bones out, strain off the gravy, and skim it clean from fat; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stew-pan, melt it, and put in two spoonsful of flour; stir it till it is smooth, and pour in the gravy; put in a sweetbread cut in pieces half an ounce of truffles and morels blanched and [Page] washed clean, some pickled or fresh mushrooms stewed, the yolks of six hard eggs, some force-meat balls, and an ox palate boiled tender and cut in pieces; stew it up for fifteen minutes, season it with Cayan pepper and salt, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, put in the veal, and make it very hot; put the veal in a dish, pour the ragou over it, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Sweetbreads.

Take three sweetbreads and blanch them, cut two of them in square pieces, rub the other over with the yolk of an egg, and roast it of a fine brown; make a pint of brown cullis, put in the cut sweetbreads, with a gill of fresh mushrooms, a few truffles and morels, two artichoke bottoms boiled and cut in pieces, a dozen force-meat and egg-balls boiled, cover them close, and stew them gently for twenty minutes; squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and give them a toss; then put the ragou in the dish, the roast in the middle, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Leg of Mutton.

Take a small leg of Mutton, cut off the fat and skin, and cut it very thin the right way of the grain; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stew-pan, shake a little flour over the meat and put it in, with half a lemon, half an onion chopped fine, a small bundle of sweet herbs, a little mace, pepper, and salt, and stir it a minute or two; then put in as much gravy as will moisten it, mince an anchovy small, mix it with a little flour and butter, and put in, stir it well together over the fire for six minutes, then throw in a few whole capers, take out the sweetbreads, and put it in a hot dish.

Livers.

Take six large fowl livers and one turkey liver, [Page] pick out the galls and throw them into cold water; take the six livers and put them into a stew-pan, with half a pint of gravy, a gill of fresh mushrooms cut small, six cocks-combs or stones, a few truffles boiled, a spoonful of ketchup, a little pepper and salt, a piece of butter mixed with flour as big as a chesnut, cover them, and stew them for fifteen minutes; butter a piece of paper, wrap the turkey's liver in it, and broil it of a fine brown [...]ake off the paper, put it in the middle of a dish, the stewed livers round it, pour the sauce over all, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Pigs Feet and Ears.

Take two pigs feet and two ears, scald them, split the feet in two, and put a bay leaf between, tie them up, and boil them till they are tender; boil the ears for a quarter of an hour, then cut them in slips about two inches long and as thick as a quill, put them into a stew-pan, with a pint of good gravy, an onion chopped fine, and stew them till they are tender; season them with pepper and salt, and put in a piece of butter mixed with flour, a spoonful of mustard, and a little elder vinegar, stew them five minutes longer, and skim them; rub the feet over with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle bread-crumbs on them, and fry them in plenty of fat, or broil them of a nice brown; put the ears in a dish, and lay the feet round them.

Lamb.

Take a small fore-quarter of house lamb, cut off the knuckle-bone, take off the skin, lard it with bacon, and half roast it; then put it into a stew-pan, with a quart of brown cullis, a pint of fresh mushrooms, some truffles and morels, two or three lamb's sweetbreads, cover it close, and stew it one hour very gently; fry a dozen oysters and a dozen force-meat balls, lay the lamb in the dish, skim the fat clean from the ragou, pour it over the lamb, lay the [Page] oysters and balls round, and garnish with watercresses.

Lamb another Way.

Cut a rib of lamb in six or eight pieces, season them with beaten mace, cloves, pepper, and salt, put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stew-pan, flour the lamb, and fry it of a light brown; dust in some flour, and put in a pint and a half of gravy, a gill of white wine, a bundle of sweet herbs, half a pint of fresh mushrooms, a few truffles and morels, a spoonful of ketchup, cover it close, and stew it till it is tender; then skim the fat off very clean, season it with Cayan pepper and salt, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and let it simmer up; then put the lamb in the dish, pour the sauce over it, lay a dozen fried force-meat balls round it, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Breast of Lamb.

Take a breast of lamb, season it with beaten cloves, mace, pepper, and salt, flour it, and fry it of a light brown in fresh butter; put in a pint of gravy, a glass of white wine, an onion, a bundle of sweet herbs, cover it close, and stew it half an hour; then take out the lamb, sweet herbs, and onion; skim off the fat, put in a little butter mixed with flour, a few pickled mushrooms, truffles and morels, season it with pepper and salt, squeeze in half a lemon, boil it up, put in the lamb, and make it hot; then put it in a dish, pour the sauce over it, lay fried force-meat balls round it, garnish with lemon and beet-root, and send it for a side-dish.

CHAP. XIII.
FRICASSEES.

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Neat's Tongue.

BOIL a fresh neat's tongue till it is tender, peel it, cut it into thin slices, flour it, and fry it in fresh butter; pour out the butter and put in a pint of white gravy, a glass of white wine, a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, a little beaten mace, pepper and salt, and simmer all together half an hour; then take out the tongue, strain off the gravy, and put it into the stew-pan again; beat up the yolks of two eggs, a little grated nutmeg, a piece of butter as big as a walnut mixed with flour, put in the flour and butter, shake it about till the butter is melted, then the eggs, and shake it together about a minute; put it into the dish, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Ox Palates.

Take four ox palates, wash them well, and boil them till they are tender; take the skins off, cut them in square pieces, and put them into a stew-pan, with a pint of veal broth, a bundle of sweet herbs, a few fresh mushrooms, a little beaten mace, pepper and salt, some butter mixed with flour, and stew them gently for twenty minutes; skim them and take out the herbs; mix the yolks of two eggs with a little cream, grate in a little nutmeg, put it in, and keep shaking the pan one way till it is thick; squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, dish it up, and garnish with lemon.

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Lamb Cutlets.

Take a leg of house lamb and cut it into thin cutlets across the grain, put them into a stew-pan, and make some good broth with the bones, shank, &c. enough to cover the collops, strain it into the stew-pan with the collops, with a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, a little cloves and mace tied in a m [...]slin rag, a few fresh mushrooms, and stew them gently for ten minutes; then take out the sweet herbs and onion, skim off the fat, and put a piece of butter mixed with flour, a few truffles and morels boiled and washed clean, a dozen force-meat balls boiled, and season it with Cayan pepper and salt to your palate; give it a boil up, and if there is any fat on skim it off; beat up the yolks of three eggs with half a pint of cream, grate in a little nutmeg, and keep shaking the pan one way till it is thick and smooth; then put the cutlets in the dish, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Lambs Stones and Sweetbreads.

Take a dozen lamb stones and six sweetbreads and parboil them, skin the stones, slit the sweetbreads in two, and put them into a stew-pan, with half a pint of veal broth, a bundle of sweet herbs, and a few fresh mushrooms, cover them close, and stew them for ten minutes; then put in a little butter mixed with flour, boil it up, and skim the fat off; take out the sweetbreads, and put in some asparagus tops boiled tender, a few force-meat and egg-balls boiled, beat the yolks of two eggs with half a pint of cream, grated in a little nutmeg, with some salt, put these in, and keep the pan shaking one way till they are thick and smooth; squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, then dish it up, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Tripe.

Take a piece of double tripe, cut it in pieces [Page] about two inches square, and put into a stew-pan of water, with a bundle of sweet herbs and an onion, and boil it till it is quite tender; in the mean time make a quart of beshemel, as directed in the chapter for made dishes, strain off the tripe, and put it in, with some pickled mushrooms, oysters blanched, and force meat balls boiled; give it a boil up, then put it into the dish, and garnish with lemon.

Another Way.

Take a piece of double tripe and cut it in square pieces, put it into a stew-pan with a pint of veal broth, a bundle of sweet herbs, two shallots chopped fine, and a few fresh mushrooms, cover it close, and stew it half an hour; then take out the sweet herbs, skim it, and put in a piece of butter mixed with flour, a dozen oysters blanched and bearded, a dozen force-meat balls boiled, shake them round till the butter is melted, and season it with pepper and salt; mix the yolks of three eggs with half a pint of cream, and put in a little grated nutmeg, keep it shaking one way till it is thick and smooth; squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, dish it up, and garnish with lemon.

Tripe a la Kilkenny.

Pare a dozen large onions and wash them well, put them into two quarts of water, and boil them till they are tender; cut about two pounds of double tripe in square pieces, put it in, and boil it with the onions a quarter of an hour; then drain off almost the whole of the liquor from it, put in a quarter of a pound of butter, shake in a little flour, put in a large spoonful of mustard, a little salt, and shake it all over the fire till the butter is melted; put it into the dish, and garnish with lemon and barberries.

This is much esteemed by the Irish nobility and gentry.

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Chickens brown.

Take two chickens, draw and singe them, cut them in pieces, pepper, salt, flour, and fry them of a nice brown in fresh butter; drain out the fat, and put in a pint of good gravy, a bundle of sweet herbs, half a pint of fresh mushrooms, a few truffles and morels washed clean, two shallots chopped fine, a piece of butter as big as a walnut mixed with flour, a little pepper and salt, and stew them for half an hour; take out the sweet herbs, skim them clean from fat, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, shake them about, put them into a hot dish, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Chickens white.

Take two chickens, draw and singe them, cut them in small pieces, and put them in warm water to draw out the blood; put them into a stew-pan, with three quarters of a pint of veal broth, (if you have no veal broth water will do) a bundle of sweet herbs, a little beaten mace and salt, half a pint of fresh mushrooms, two shallots chopped fine, and a little lemon-peel, cover them close and stew them half an hour; then take out the herbs and lemon-peel, put in a piece of butter as big as a walnut mixed with flour, a few truffles and morels boiled and washed very clean, boil it till it is thick, and skim off all the fat; mix the yolks of two eggs with a gill of cream, grate in a little nutmeg, put it in, and keep the pan shaking one way till it is thick and smooth, squeeze in half a lemon, shake it round, dish it up, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

If you have no fresh mushrooms, put in a gill of pickled ones washed in warm water, to either of the above receipts.

Rabbits brown.

Take two young rabbits, cut them in small pieces, slit the head in two, throw away the bloody [Page] part of the neck, pepper salt, and flour them, and fry them of a nice brown in fresh butter; pour out the fat and put in a pint of gravy, a bundle of sweet herbs, half a pint of fresh mushrooms, a few truffles and morels washed clean, four shallots chopped fine, a little pepper and salt, cover them close, and stew them for half an hour; then skim them, put in a spoonful of ketchup, squeeze in half a lemon, take out the sweet herbs. and put in a piece of butter as big as a walnut mixed with flour, boil them up till they are thick and smooth, skim off the fat, put them in a hot dish, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Rabbits white.

Take two young rabbits and cut them in small pieces, cut off the heads, and bloody part of the necks, and do not use them, put them into warm water to soak out the blood then put them into a stew-pan, with a pint of veal broth, (if you have no broth water will do) a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, a little beaten mace, four shallots chopped fine, half a pint of fresh mushrooms, a little salt, and a little lemon-peel, cover them close, and stew them half an hour; then take out the sweet herbs, lemon peel, and onion; and put in a piece of butter as big as a walnut mixed with flour, a few truffles and morels boiled and washed clean, boil it up, and skim the fat off clean; mix the yolks of two eggs with half a pint of cream, grate in a little nutmeg, and keep shaking the stew-pan one way till it is thick and smooth; squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, give it a shake about, then dish it up, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Pigeons brown.

Take six pigeons and cut them in quarters, season them with beaten mace, pepper and salt, flour them, fry them of a light brown in fresh butter, and put them on a sieve to drain; then put them into a [Page] stew-pan with a pint of gravy, and a gill of red wine, a bundle of sweet herbs, a piece of lemon-peel, four shallots chopped fine, cover them close, and stew them half an hour; then put in a piece of butter mixed with flour, season it with pepper and salt, put in a few truffles and morels boiled and washed clean, a few force-meat balls boiled, and some pickled mushrooms, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, cover them, and stew them for ten minutes; skim them clean, put them in a dish, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Pigeons white.

Take six young pigeons, draw and singe them, cut them in quarters, put them into warm water to soak out the blood, then put them into a stew-pan, with a pint of veal broth, a gill of white wine, a bundle of sweet herbs, four shallots chopped fine, a little beaten mace, pepper and salt, a little lemon-peel, half a pint of fresh mushrooms and a piece of butter mixed with flour, cover them close, and stew them half an hour; then take out the sweet herbs and lemon-peel, skim the fat off clean, put in some asparagus tops boiled tender, mix the yolks of two eggs with a gill of cream, grate in a little nutmeg, and put it in, shake the pan one way till it is thick and smooth, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, give it a shake round, put them in a dish, and garnish with lemon and beet-root.

Pigeons the Italian Way.

Take six young pigeons, draw and singe them, cut them in quarters, season them with beaten mace, pepper and salt; put half a pint of sweet oil into a stew-pan and fry them brown; then put in a pint of green peas, an onion, a little garlick shred fine, and fry them in the oil till the peas are ready to burst: then put in a pint of boiling water, a gill of oil, some parsley shred fine, pepper and salt, and stew them for half an hour; then beat up the yolks [Page] of three eggs with a spoonful of vinegar and put in, keep shaking the pan for a moment; then put them in a dish, with the sauce over them, and garnish with lemon.

Eggs.

Boil twelve eggs hard, take off the shells, cut four in halves and four in quarters; have ready half a pint of cream and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, stir it together over the fire till it is thick and smooth; grate in a little nutmeg, lay one whole egg, in the middle of the dish, place the others all round, pour the sauce over, and garnish with the yolks of the other three cut in two.

Calves Feet and Chaldron the Italian Way.

Rub the crumb of a three-penny loaf through a cullender, shred a pound of beef-suet very fine, a large onion, four cloves of garlick, and a handful of parsley, season it with pepper and salt, mix it up with eight eggs well beaten, and stuff the chaldron, tie it up, and boil it in a pot of water for two hours; take the four feet, split them, put them into a deep stew-pan. stew them with three pints of water till almost tender, and season them with beaten mace, pepper and salt; take two quarts of green peas and an onion shred fine and put in, and stew them till the peas are done, beat up the yolks of four eggs and put in, stir them round a moment; put the chaldron in the middle of the dish, the feet round it, squeeze in a lemon, and pour the rest over it.

CHAP. XIV.
ROOTS AND VEGETABLES.

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Proper Rules to be observed in dressing Roots and Vegetables.

BE sure to be very careful that your greens, cabbages. cauliflowers, &c. are picked free from sluggs or fish. and well washed in plenty of water; spinach should always be washed in three or four different waters, as it contains the sand more than any other vegetable; your roots pared clean, or scraped, and well washed; then put them in a sieve, cullender or earthen pan, for fear of sand or dust, which is apt to hang about wooden tubs. Boil all your greens by themselves in plenty of spring water with salt in it; boil no kind of meat with them, as it will make them greasy and discolour them; and never use iron pots or pans, as they are very improper vessels for the purpose; let them be copper or brass well tinned, or silver. Take care you do not boil them too much, but let them have a little crispness; for if you boil them too much, you will deprive them of their sweetness and beauty. Let them be well drained before you put them in the dish, as nothing is more disagreeable than to see the dish floating with water.

Greens and Sprouts.

After you have picked and washed them as directed, put plenty of spring water into a pot or stew-pan, and when it boils throw in a handful of salt, put in the greens or sprouts, and make them boil up quick; while they are boiling press them down [Page] with a skimmer, and try them often, that they may not be boiled too much; when done, take them up in a clean sieve or cullender, and put them over the hot water a few minutes to drain, but not too long, as the steam will make them yellow; then put them in a dish and garnish them with boiled carrot cut in any shape you please, with melted butter in a boat.

Cabbages,

If your cabbages are young, split them in two; if old, cut them in quarters; wash them clean, boil them in plenty of spring water and salt, as directed for greens; when they are done put them on a sieve or cullender to drain, (the same if they are young summer cabbages or savoys) send them in a dish in halves or quarters. If rather old, chop them up, put them into a stew-pan, with a piece of butter, a little pepper and salt, stir them about till the butter is melted, then put them in a dish, and garnish with boiled carrot, with melted butter in a boat.

Cauliflowers.

Cut the stalks and coarse leaves off your cauliflowers, but leave on the tender leaf round the flower, and wash them clean; have a kettle of spring water boiling, put in a handful of salt, put in the cauliflowers, but do not let them boil too salt, as that will break the flower, and spoil the beauty of them; (you may know when they are done, by trying them, with a fork in the middle of the flower) then take them up and let the water drain from them, put one whole in the middle of a dish, cut the rest in sprigs and lay round it, with melted butter in a boat.

Another Way.

After you have boiled the cauliflowers as before directed, put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stew-pan, with a spoonful or two of water, dust in a [Page] littleflour, and melt it, add a little pepper and salt, cut one cauliflower into small sprigs and put in, and keep shaking it for a few minutes, lay the stewed in the middle of the dish, cut the rest in quarters and lay round it.

Broccoli.

Take a dozen heads of broccoli, strip off all the sprigs up to the heads, and with a knife cut off all the hard outside skin and sprigs and throw them into cold water; have a stew-pan of spring water boiling, put in some salt, then the broccoli, and when the stalks are tender the broccoli is done; put a piece of toasted bread in a dish soaked in the water the broccoli was boiled in, put the broccoli on it, and send melted butter in a boat.

Spinach.

Pick the leaves from the stalks, wash it in plenty of water three or four different times, and put it into a cullender to drain; have half a pint of boiling water at the bottom of a stew-pan, put in the spinach, put some salt on it, cover it close, and boil it up quick; (as it swells up press it down with the back of a spoon) when it is tender strain it off▪ and squeeze it between two plates till the water is squeezed out; then cut it in what form you please and put it in a dish, with plain butter in a boat.

Carrots.

If they are young spring carrots, put them in a large sauce pan of soft water, with their skins on, and boil them till they are tender; then take them out, and with a clean cloth rub the skins off, and put some whole and some in slices in the dish. If old or Sandwich carrots, with a sharp knife pare the skins off very clean, and boil them in plenty of soft water till they are tender; cut them in slices, or what shape you please, put them in a dish, pour melted butter over them, or send it in a boat.

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Turneps.

Take as many as you want, pare the rinds off clean, wash them, put them into a large sauce-pan of soft water, and boil them quick till they are tender; then strain them into a sieve or cullender squeeze the juice out between two plates, and put them in a dish, with melted butter in a boat. You may mash them in a stew-pan, shake in a little flour, put in a gill of cream, a piece of butter, a little salt, and stir them till the butter is melted; then put them in a dish or bowl, with a piece of butter, a little pepper and salt, and mash them up till the butter is melted.

Parsneps.

Pare the skins off very clean, and slit them half way down the middle, put them on the fire in a large pot of soft water, and boil them till they are tender, which you may know by running a fork through them; when they are done strain them off, cut them in quarters, or any shape you please, and put them in a dish, or round salt fish, with melted butter in a boat.

Mashed Parsneps.

After they are boiled tender bruise them fine in a mortar. or on a clean dresser with a broad knife, put them into a stew-pan, with a piece of butter, a little cream and salt, and stir them about till the butter is melted; put them in a dish, with some cut in slips and put round them for garnish.

Potatoes.

Wash them very clean, put them into a sauce-pan, nearly cover them with cold water, put in a little salt, cover them close, and boil them very gently, but look at them often; when the skins begin to break try them with a fork, and if they are done strain the water from them, cover them close to steam for a few minutes, then peel them, and put them in a dish, [Page] with melted butter in a boat. Or thus: pare them first, wash them clean, and put them into a sauce-pan with a little cold water, cover them close, boil them very gently, and look at them often, that they do not break to pieces; strain the water off, and put them into a dish, with melted butter in a boat.

Mashed Potatoes.

After they are boiled and peeled mash them in a mortar▪ or on a clean board with a broad knife, and put them into a stew pan; to two pounds of potatoes put in half a pint of milk, a quarter of a pound of butter. a little salt, put them over the fire, and keep them stirring till the butter is melted, but take care they do not burn to the bottom; put them in a small dish, and with a knife shape them in any form you please.

Windsor Beans.

Never shell them till near the time you want to boil them, for if they are young they will turn red; have a pot of soft water boiling put in a little salt and a large bunch of parsley, put in the beans, and boil them quick; as soon as they are tender strain them in a cullender or sieve; (take care they do not fall to the bottom, for that will cause them to be red) put them in one dish, with a piece of boiled bacon in a another, and parsley and butter in a boat.

French Beans.

Take as many as you want, string them, slit them in two, cut them across, and throw them into spring water as you cut them; have a large stew-pan of spring water, when it boils put in a handful of salt, strain the beans out of the cold water, put them in, and boil them quick; as soon as they are done strain them in a sieve or cullender, let them drain a moment, and put them in a dish, with plain butter in a boat.

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Asparagus.

Scrape all the white part of the stalks very clean, pick off the buds close to the heads as you scrape them, throw them into cold spring water, and wash them out clean; tie your asparagus up in bundles with bass, if you can get it, as packthread cuts it to pieces. and cut the root-ends even; have a wide pan of spring water, when it boils put in some salt, put in the asparagus, and boil it moderately; (be careful it is not done too much, as that will spoil both colour and taste) have a thin toast round a loaf nicely toasted, cut it in square pieces, dip them in the asparagus water, and put them in the dish; take up the asparagus, lay it on the toast with the white ends outwards, and plain butter in a boat. Never pour any melted butter over, as that makes it greasy to the fingers.

Artichokes.

Wring off the stalks, mind you pull out the strings, and wash them well in plenty of water; have a large pot of water, when it boils put in salt, put them in tops downwards, and boil them, but not too salt; one hour and a half will boil them, but that you will know by pulling out one of the leaves, if it comes out easy they are done; then take them out, and lay them upside down to drain, put them in a dish, and for every artichoke have tea-cup full of melted butter.

Green Peas.

Have your peas s [...]lled as near the time you want to dress them as possible; have boiling water in a sauce-pan, put in the peas, a little salt, a small knob or two of sugar, and a sprig or two of pint, boil them quick, and when they dent they are done; strain them in a sieve, take out the mint, and put them in a dish; have a little mint boiled by itself chopped fine and put round: or you may put some butter in the dish, and stir them up till it is melted. You may broil some thin slices of ham and lay round if you please.

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Mushrooms broiled.

Take the large flaps and peel off the outside skin, scrape out the black in the inside, pepper, salt, and broil them gently over a clear fire; take a sheet of writing paper, make it in the form of a coffin brown it before the fire, put it in a small dish, and put the mushrooms in.

Mushrooms stewed.

Clean a quart of mushrooms, put them into a stew-pan, with a spoonful of water, a little piece of butter, a little beaten mace, cover them close, and stew them gently for twenty minutes; (take care to shake them often to keep them from sticking) then put in a gill of good gravy. a little butter mixed with flour, pepper and salt, and the juice of half a lemon; stew them till they are thick, skim them clean, and put them in a dish, with fried sippets round them.

Mushrooms fricasseed.

Take a quart of button mushrooms, make them very clean, and as you clean them throw them into cold soft water, wash them out, put them into a stew-pan, with a little water, a blade or two of mace, a little lemon-peel, cover them close, and stew them very gently over a slow fire for twenty minutes; mix up the yolks of two eggs with half a pint of cream, grate in a little nutmeg, take out the lemon-peel and mace, put in the eggs and cream, a little salt, and keep them stirring one way [...]ill they are thick and smooth; toast the top of a French roll crisp. dip it in hot water, put it in the dish squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, put them over the roll, and send them to table as hot as possible.

Mushrooms Ragou.

Take a quantity of large mushrooms peel them, and take out the inside, put them into a stew-pan, with a little water and salt, and let them boil up; [Page] take them off, and put in a gill of red wine, a little butter mixed with flour, a little beaten mace and nutmeg, set them on the fire. and keep them stirring for ten minutes, in the mean time broil a dozen, put the ragou into the dish, and garnish with the broiled ones.

Peas and Lettuces stewed.

Take a quart of green peas, and two cabbage lettuces cut small across, and washed very clean, put them into a stew-pan, with a pint of gravy, a piece of lean ham or bacon, an onion chopped fine, cover them close, and stew them for half an hour; then put in a piece of butter mixed with flour, some pepper and salt, cover them, and stew them till you find they are very tender and of a proper thickness; take out the ham, put them in a dish, and send them to table.

Peas stewed another Way.

Take a pint of peas, put them into a stew-pan, with some parsley chopped very fine, just cover them with water, stew them till they are very tender, and then sweeten them with fine sugar; beat up the yolks of two eggs. put them in. and with a spoon keep them stirring till they are thick; then dish them up.

Peas Francoise.

Take a quart of green peas, put them in a stew-pan, with a large Spanish onion, if you have one or English ones chopped very fine, and two cabbage or Silesia lettuces cut across very small, with half a pint of water, seasoned with beaten mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt cover them close, and let them stew gently for half an hour; then put in a quarter of a pound of butter mixed with half a spoonful of flour, a spoonful of ketchup, cover them close, and let them simmer half an hour; then dish them up.

Green Peas with Cream.

Take a quart of young green peas, put them into [Page] a stew-pan, with half a pint of water, a piece of butter as big as an egg mixed with a little flour, season them with a little nutmeg and salt, a knob of sugar, a little bundle of sweet herbs, some parsley chopped fine, cover them close, and stew them for half an hour; shake the pan often, put in half a pint of good cream, and give them a boil up; then put them in a dish, but be sure to take out the sweet herbs.

Cucumbers stewed.

Take six cucumbers, pare them, and cut them in three lengthways, take out the seeds, and cut three of them across; peel a dozen small round headed onions, put about two ounces of butter into a stew-pan, make it hot, put in the onions, and fry them of a light brown; shake in a little flour, stir it till it is smooth, put in half a pint of brown gravy, a gill of white wine, put in the cucumbers, season them with Cayan pepper and salt, cover them close, and stew them gently till they are tender; skim off the fat, squeeze in a little lemon, and then dish them up.

Cucumbers stewed another Way.

Take twelve cucumbers, pare, and slice them as thick as a crown piece, but leave one whole, lay them on a coarse cloth to drain, flour and fry them in fresh butter of a light brown; take them out with a slice, and lay them on a plate before the fire; take the whole one, cut a long piece out of the side and scoop out all the pulp; peel and slice six large onions, and fry them brown, season them with pepper and salt, stuff them into the cucumber, put in the slice, tie it round with packthread, flour it, fry it brown, and put it before the fire to keep hot; keep the pan on the fire, and with one hand put in a little flour, and stir it with the other till it is thick, put in a gill of water, half a pint of red or white wine, two spoonsful of ketchup, a little beaten mace, cloves, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and stir it all together; then put in your sliced cucumbers, give them a toss or two, untie [Page] the whole cucumber, and lay it in the dish, pour the rest all over it, and garnish with fried onions.

Cucumbers in Ragou.

Pare six large cucumbers, cut a slice out of the side of two of them, and scoop out the pulp, fill the inside with a light veal force-meat, put in the piece you cut out, and tie it round with packthread; cut the other four in two, scoop out the pulp, and cut them in square pieces; put the forced ones into a stew-pan, with a pint of good gravy, a gill of white wine, a little beaten mace, pepper, and salt, a dozen of small button onions peeled, cover them close, and stew them fifteen minutes; then put in the rest of the cucumbers, with a little butter mixed with flour, a very little Cayan pepper, cover them, and stew them half an hour longer; squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, skin off the fat, take the whole cucumbers out, untie them, lay them in the middle of the dish, and pour the remainder over them.

Cucumbers a la Farce.

Pare six large cucumbers, cut a long slip out of the side of every one, and scoop out the pulp; boil a whiteheart cabbage very tender, cut out the heart only, and chop it fine, with a large onion, some parsley, pickled mushrooms, and two hard eggs chopped fine, season it with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, mix it up with the yolk of an egg, and stuff the cucumbers with it, put in the pieces you cut out, and tie them round with packthread; peel a dozen button onions, put half a pound of butter into a stew-pan, and fry the cucumbers and onions of a fine brown; pour out the fat, and put in half a pint of good gravy, a glass of white wine, a little butter mixed with flour, a little Cayan pepper and salt, cover them, and stew them gently till they are tender; then take out the cucumbers, untie them, lay them in the dish, skim the fat off the sauce, if there is any, squeeze in a little lemon, and pour the sauce over them.

[Page] If it is for a Lent or Fast dinner or supper, you may use water and red wine, instead of gravy and white wine.

Skirrets fricasseed.

Wash six roots very clean, and boil them in plenty of water till they are tender; then take off the skin, and cut them in slices: in the mean time have ready a little cream, a bit of butter mixed with flour, the yolk of an egg beat up in a glass of white wine, grate in a little nutmeg, a little salt and mix all well together; put it over a slow fire, and keep it stirring till it is thick and smooth; lay the roots in the dish, and pour the sauce over them. You may dress roots of salsify and scorzonera the same way.

Asparagus a la Petit Poy.

Take a large bundle of asparagus, cut off the green part as big as a pea, wash it clean, boil it tender in spring water, then strain it off in a sieve; put half a pint of veal broth into a stew-pan, with a knob or two of sugar, a little butter mixed with flour, and boil it up till it is thick and smooth; put in the asparagus, give it a boil, mix the yolks of two eggs in a little cream, grate in a little nutmeg, put it in, and keep the pan shaking one way till it is thick and smooth; crisp the top crust of a French roll, put it in the dish, and put the asparagus over it.

Asparagus in Ragou.

Pick the buds off a hundred of asparagus as far as it is green, cut the green part off about an inch long, throw it into water, and boil it, but not too much; take two heads of endive and two young lettuces, well washed and cut small, and an onion chopped fine; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stew-pan, make it hot, fry the endive, &c. for ten minutes, and keep the pan in motion, shake in a little flour, season them with pepper and salt, and pour in [Page] half a pint of gravy, a glass of white wine, and let them stew a few minutes; then put in the asparagus, leaving out a few for garnish; put the top crust of a French roll in the dish, pour the ragou over, and garnish with the rest.

Asparagus the Italian Way.

Cut off the green part of half a hundred of asparagus, wash them, boil them tender, and strain them in a sieve to drain; put a little oil, water, and vinegar into a stew-pan, with a little pepper and salt, make it boil and put in the asparagus; beat up the yolks of two eggs and put in, keep it stirring for a moment, then put it in a small dish.

Asparagus in French Rolls.

Cut the green part off a hundred of asparagus, wash them well, boil them, but not too much, and strain them off; take three French rolls, cut a piece out of the top-crust, (but take care to cut them in such a manner that they will fit again) pick all the crumb out of the inside, and crisp them before the fire; then take half a pint of cream, with the yolks of four eggs, beat up in it a little salt and nutmeg. and stir it well together over a slow fire till it begins to thicken; then put in three parts of the asparagus cut small, fill the rolls with them, put on the tops, and with a sharp skewer make holes all round the tops, and stick the rest of the asparagus in, as if it were growing; put them in a small dish, and send them to table hot.

French Beans in Ragou.

Take a quarter of a peck of good sized French beans, string them, but do not slit them, cut them in three across, and lay them in salt and water for one hour; then take them out, dry them in a clean cloth, and fry them brown in fresh butter; pour out the fat, dust in a little flour, put in a gill of hot water, stir it into the pan, and by degrees let it boil; put in a [Page] quarter of a pound of fresh butter, two spoonsful of ketchup, one of mushroom pickle, a gill of white wine, an [...]ing stuck with cloves, a little beaten mace, nutmeg pepper and salt and stir it all together a few minutes [...] throw in the beans and shake the pan [...] or two; take out the onion, pour them [...] and garnish with [...] French beans, mushro [...] o [...] samphire.

Beans in Ragou with a Farce.

Ragou them as above, take two large carrots, pare and boil them tender, then mash them in a pan, season them with pepper and salt, and mix them up with a little piece of butter and the yolks of two raw eggs; make it into what shape you please, and bake it a quarter of an hour in a quick oven, or in a tin oven before the fire; put it in the middle of the dish, put the ragou round it, serve it up hot, and garnish as before.

French Beans ragoned with Cabbage.

Take the ragou as before; take a nice little cabbage, about as big as a pint bacon when the outside lean top, and stalks are cut off, half boil it, and cut a [...] in the middle pretty big; take what you cut out and chop it very fine. with a few French beans boiled, a carrot, and [...] turnep, boiled and mashed [...] together, put them into a stew-pan, season them with pepper, salt and nutmeg, and a good piece of butter, stew them a few minutes over the fire, keep stirring them all the time; in the mean time put the cabbage into a stew-pan, but take great care it does [...]ot [...]ll to pieces, put to it a gill of water, two spoonsful of white wine, one of ketchup one of mushroom pickle, a little butter mixed with flour, a very little pepper, cover it close, and let it stew till it is tender; then take it up carefully and lay it in the middle of the dish put the mashed roots in the middle, heaped as high as you can, and put the ragou round it.

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French Beans ragoued with Parsneps.

Pare two large parsneps and boil them tender, then scrape off all the tender part, and masht hem in a sauce-pan, with four spoonsful of cream, a piece of butter as big as an hen's egg, and a little pepper and salt; [...] they are quite thick, heap them up in the middle of the dish, and pour the ragou round.

French Beans ragoued with Potatoes.

Boil two pounds of potatoes soft, peel them, and mash them fine in a mortar, put them into a sauce-pan, with half a pint of milk and a little salt, stir them about, and put in a quarter of a pound of butter, keep stirring all the time till it is so thick that you can hardly stir the spoon in it for stiffness; then put it into a little Welch dish, first buttering it, make it as high a pyramid as you can, pour a little melted butter over, and sprinkle a few bread-crumbs on it, put it into a tin oven, and bake it before the fire of a nice brown; then put it into the middle of the dish, but take care you do not brake it, pour the ragou round it, and send it to table as hot as possible.

Kidney Beans in Ragou.

Take a quart of the [...] and soak them all night in soft water, then boil them till they are tender, and take off the skin; peel two dozen small button onions, put a little butter into a stew-pan, and fry the onions of a nice brown; shake in a little flour, and put in a pint and a half of good gravy, a glass of white wine, pepper and salt, and give it a boil up; then put in the beans, cover them close, and stew them gently for ten minutes; skim them clean, put them in a dish, and garnish with pickled French beans.

If you have any French beans, cut a few in three pieces boil them tender, and put them in a minute before you send them to table.

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White Kidney Beans fricasseed.

Take a quart of the white of kidney beans, if they are dried, soak them in soft water all night; if fresh gathered, blanch them and take off the skins; the dried ones must be boiled till they are tender and the skins slip off; put them into a stew-pan, with half a pint of veal broth or water, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little beaten mace, nutmeg, and salt, a glass of white wine, cover them close, and let them stew very gently for a quarter of an hour; then take out the sweet herbs, put in a little butter mixed with flour, and shake them about till they are thick; mix the yolks of two eggs in half a pint of cream, put it in, and keep shaking the pan one way till it is thick and smooth; squeeze in a little lemon, put the top-crust of a French roll in the dish, and put the fricassee over it; [...] with French beans, fresh or pickled.

Endive in Ragou.

Take three heads of large white endive, and lay them in spring water for two or three hours; take a hundred of small asparagus, cut of the heads as far as it is green, and put them in spring water; take the white part of six heads of cellery, cut it about two inches long, wash it clean, put it into a stew-pan, with a pint of water, four blades of mace, a little whole pepper tied in a rag, and let it stew gently till it is quite tender: boil the asparagus heads in water, strain them off, put them in, and let it simmer a few minutes; take the endive out of the water, drain it, leave one large head whole, pull the other leaf by leaf, put it into a stew-pan with a pint of white wine, cover the pan close, and let it stew till the endive is tender; then put the whole head in the middle of a dish, the leaves round it, lay the asparagus and cellery all over, and cover it to keep it hot; then put the two liquors together, put in a piece of butter mixed with flour, a little salt, and boil it up till it is thick; be [...]t up the yolks of two eggs with a gill of cream, and half a nutmeg grated, mix it with [Page] the sauce, and keep it stirring one way till it is thick; then pour it over the ragou, and send it to table hot.

Chardoons stewed.

Take four chardoons, pull off the outside leaves, string the white part, cut them about two inches long, wash them very clean, and put them into a stew-pan, with a pint of gravy, a gill of white wine, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little beaten mace, pepper and salt, cover them close, and stew them gently till they are tender; then put in a piece of butter mixed with flour, and boil it gently till it is of a proper thickness; squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, take out the sweet herbs, and dish it up for a side-dish.

Chardoons fried and buttered.

Cut the best parts about six inches long, string them, and boil them in water till they are tender; then have plenty of butter in a stew-pan, flour them, and fry them of a nice brown; put them on a sieve to drain, then put them in a small dish, and pour melted butter over them.

You may tie them in bundles, and boil them like asparagus, put a toast under them, with plain butter in a boat.

Chardoons a la Petit Pois.

Take three chardoons, pull off the outside leaves, string the white part, cut them in long slips, and then across, about the size of a marrow fat pea, wash them clean. and boil them in water till they are tender; strain them in a sieve, put them into a stewpan, with some good white gravy, a little beaten mace, pepper and salt, a piece of butter mixed with flour, and give them a boil up for a few minutes; mix the yolks of two eggs with a gill of cream grate in a little nutmeg. put it in, and keep it stirring one way till it is thick and smooth; crisp the top-crust of a French roll, lay it in the dish, and pour the petit pois over it.

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Chardoons a la Fromage.

After they are stringed cut them an inch long, put them in a stew-pan, and nearly cover them with red wine, season them with beaten mace, pepper and salt, cover them close and stew them gently till they are tender grate a pound of parmazan cheese if no parmazan some good heshir [...]eese, put half to the chardoons, with a few bread-crumbs, a bit of butter as big as a walnut, and shake it well till the cheese is melted; or you may stir it about with a wooden spoon; then put it in a dish, put the remainder of the cheese over, and brown it with a very hot salamander or in a quick oven; send it to table as quick and hot as possible.

Artichoke Bottoms Fricasseed.

Boil the bottoms till they are tender, and cut them in four pieces each; have ready half a pint of cream, with a piece of butter, a little grated nutmeg and salt, put it over the fire, and keep it stirring one way till it is thick; then put in the bottoms, give them a toss or two, and dish them up.

Artichoke Bottoms a la Cap.

Take six artichoke bottoms, and boil them till they are tender: take some beef-marrow, chop it very fine, and put it at the top of the artichokes; put them into a stew-pan▪ with half a pint of gravy, a glass of white wine, a little pepper and salt, cover them close, and simmer them for half an hour; in the mean time make a puff-paste, roll it out thin, cut it in round pieces as big over the bottoms, and bake it; take the bottoms out of the stew-pan, put them in a dish, skim the fat off the gravy, put it into the dish, and put a piece of pastry on each of the bottoms.

This is a very good second course dish.

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Artichokes au Barigoult.

Trim four artichokes, boil them in water till you can pull out the chokes, and drain them well; put a layer of fat bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan, with a pint of broth, some parsley, sweet herbs, chibol, and shallots chopped fine, the yolks of eggs beat up with a spoonful of oil, pepper and salt, cover them close, and put fire under and over them, and stew them gently for half an hour: have half a pint of white cullis, take the artichokes out, lay them in a dish, and pour the cullis over them.

You may squeeze the juice of half a lemon into the cullis.

Brocoli in Sallad.

Trim about eighteen heads of brocoli, wash them, boil them green as you can, and lay them in a dish; mix the yolk of a hard egg with a cruet of oil, a little vinegar, a spoonful of mustard, a little salt, and pour it over them.

Cauliflowers in Ragou.

Take one small cauliflower and trim it close; pull a large one into sprigs, put them into a stew-pan with a quart of good brown cullis, cover them close, and stew them gently till they are tender; then put the whole one in the middle of a dish, lay the sprigs all round, pour the sauce over it, and garnish with little sprigs of cauliflower, plain boiled, all round the rim of the dish.

Cauliflowers stewed.

Take a large cauliflower, trim and wash it well, pull it in sprigs, and put it in a stew-pan, with a pint of gravy, a little beaten mace, pepper and salt, a piece of butter mixed with flour, cover it close, and stew it gently till it is tender; uncover it, skim it clean, and squeeze in the juice of half a [Page] lemon: lay it in the dish, pour the gravy over it, and garnish with a few sprigs boiled plain.

Cauliflowers d'Espanole.

Take two cauliflowers. half boil them. and pull them into sprigs; put half a pint of sweet oil into a stew-pan, make it hot, and fry the flowers; then put in a gill of vinegar▪ two cloves of garlick chopped fine, season them with pepper and salt, cover them close, and simmer them gently for one hour: then put them in a dish.

Green Truffles boiled.

Take twelve large green truffles, pare the outside skins off very thin▪ wash them, put them into a sauce-pan that will just hold them, and cover them with half white wine and half water▪ a little cloves, mace and salt, cover them close▪ and boil them very gently for one hour: then fold a small napkin▪ lay it in a dish, put the truffles on, and send them for a second course dish.

Green Truffles stewed.

Take six or eight large green truffles▪ pare off all the outsides, cut them in thin slices, and put them into a stew-pan, with half a pint of good gravy, a gill of white wine, a bundle of sweet herbs. a little beaten mace, pepper and salt, cover them close, and simmer them one hour very gently; then put in a little butter mixed with flour, stew them up till they are thick, and squeeze in the juice of half a lemon; crisp the top crust of a French roll▪ put it in the dish, and put the truffles over it. Be sure you take out the sweet herbs.

Green Truffles a la Italiane.

Take six or eight green truffles, pare the outsides off and cut them in thin slices: put a gill of oil into a stew-pan, and fry the truffles in it; then put in a [Page] gill of white wine, a little water, two or three cloves of garlick chopped fine, a little beaten mace, pepper and salt, cover them close, and stew them gently for three quarters of an hour; then put them in a dish.

Green Morels stewed.

Take what quantity you want, wash them very clean, cut the large ones in quarters, and let the small ones remain whole, put them into a stew-pan, with good gravy, enough to stew them in, a glass of white wine, a little beaten mace, pepper and salt, cover them close, and stew them very gently for one hour; then put in a little butter mixed with flour, the juice of half a lemon, and boil them up till they are of a proper thickness; put the top-crust of a French roll in a dish, pour the morels over it, and send them up for a second course dish.

Green Morels fricassee.

Take what quantity you want, wash them very clean, cut them in thin slices, and put them into a stew-pan, with white gravy enough to stew them in, a glass of white wine, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little beaten mace, pepper and salt, cover them close, and stew them half an hour; then put in a piece of butter mixed with flour, boil it up, chop some green parsley very fine and put in, mix the yolks of two eggs with a gill of cream, grate in a little nutmeg, put it into the stew-pan, and keep shaking it one way till it is thick and smooth; crisp the top-crust of a French roll, lay it in the dish, squeeze in a little lemon, and pour the morels over it.

Green Morels forced.

Take eight or nine large morels, cut off the stalks, wash them very clean, season them with beaten cloves, mace, pepper and salt, and stuff the inside with a light veal force-meat; lay a layer of fat bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan, put in the morels, with a pint of [Page] good gravy, a gill of white wine, a bundle of sweet herbs, an onion stuck with cloves, a layer of bacon at the top, set them over a slow fire, put fire at the top, and stew them gently for one hour; then take them out, strain off the gravy, skim off the fat, put it into the stew-pan again, thicken it with butter mixed with flour, boil it up, and put in the morels to make them hot; when done, lay them in a dish, and pour the sauce over them.

Cabbage forced.

Take a fine large white-heart cabbage, cut the stalk even at the bottom, cut off all the outside leaves, and lay it in water two or three hours; then half boil it, put it in a cullender to drain, and very carefully cut out the heart, but take great care not to break off any of the outside leaves, and fill it with force-meat made thus: take a pound of lean veal, half a pound of bacon, fat and lean together, cut it small, and beat it fine in a mortar, with four eggs boiled hard, season it with beaten mace, pepper and salt, lemon-peel shred fine, a little parsley and thyme chopped fine, two anchovies, the crumb of a stale roll, a few mushrooms, either pickled or fresh all beat well together, and the heart of the cabbage chopped fine; mix it all up with the yolks of three raw eggs, fill the hollow part of the cabbage, put the leaves over, and tie it round with packthread, put a layer of fat bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan, and a pound of lean beef cut in thin slices, put in the cabbage a bundle of sweet herbs, some cloves and mace, cover it close, and set it over a flow fire: when the bacon begins to stick pour in a quart of broth or gravy, a gill of white wine. cover it close, and let it stew for one hour and a half; then very carefully take out the cabbage, put it into a dish, cover it over, and keep it hot; strain off the gravy, skim off the fat, thicken it with butter mixed with flour, and boil it up in a stew-pan till it is thick; pour it over the cabbage, and send it up for a first course dish.

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Cabbage Farce Maigre.

Take a fine white-heart cabbage, trim and wash it clean. boil it five minutes in water, drain it, and cut the stalk flat, that it may stand upright in the dish; then carefully open the leaves and cut out the inside, leaving the outside leaves whole, and chop what you take out very fine; take the flesh of two flounders or plaice clean from the bones, chop it with four hard eggs, some parsley shred fine, the crumb of a stale roll, seasoned with beaten mace, pepper and salt, beat it all well together in a mortar with a quarter of a pound of butter, and mix it up with the yolks of two eggs; fill the cabbage, tie it together, and put it into a deep stew-pan, with half a pint of water, half a pint of white wine, a piece of butter mixed with flour, the yolks of four hard eggs, an onion stack with cloves, a little mace and whole pepper in a rag, half an ounce of truffles and morels, a spoonful of ketchup, and some fresh or pickled mushrooms, cover it close, and let it simmer an hour; (if you find it is not done let it simmer longer) when it is enough put it in the dish, and pour the sauce over it, but mind you take out the onion and spice.

Savoys forced and stewed.

Take two fine savoys, wash them well, and scald them in boiling water; force one in the same manner as cabbage forced, and cut the other in two, put them into a stew-pan, with a pint of gravy, a little beaten mace, pepper and salt, a gill of white wine, cover them close, and stew them till they are tender; thicken the gravy with butter mixed with flour, and stew them till the gravy is thick; put the forced one in the middle of the dish, and a half on each end or side, pour the sauce over them. These dishes may be garnished with green pickles.

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Red Cabbage a la Haslang.

Take a nice red cabbage, trim off all the outside leaves, cut it in two, and then across in thin slices, put it into a stew-pan, with a pint of gravy, [...] pepper and salt. a little beaten mace, cover it close, and stew it gently till it is tender; then put in a little butter mixed with flour, boil it up till it is thick, and put in a spoonful of vinegar; have a pound of sausages, [...] b [...]iled or fried, put the cabbage in the dish, and lay the sausages over it.

Spinach stewed.

Pick and wash your spinach very clean, put it into a sauce-pan with a little salt, cover it close, and stew it till it is tender; then strain it in a sieve, squeeze the juice out between two plates, and chop it small; put it into a stew-pan, with a little pepper and salt, a quarter of a pound of butter, stew it for ten minutes, and then put it in the dish, with fried sippets for garnish.

Spinach a la Cream.

Pick, wash, and stew your spinach, squeeze it between two plates, chop it, and put it into a stewpan, with a piece of butter▪ a gill of cream, a little nutmeg, pepper and salt, stew it for ten minutes; then put it into the dish in what form you please, and garnish with fried sippets.

Parsneps stewed.

Pare and boil four parsneps tender, cut them in thin slices, and put them into a stew-pan, with half a pint of cream. a little butter mixed with flour, grated nutmeg, and salt, keep shaking the pan round till it is thick and smooth, then put them in a small dish.

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Cellery in Ragou.

Take a dozen white heads of cellery cut about two inches long, wash them very clean, put them into a stew-pan, with as much water as will cover them, a bundle of sweet herbs▪ a few cloves and mace, a little whole pepper tied in a muslin rag, and an onion, cover them close, and stew them gently till they are tender; then take out the spice, onion, and sweet herbs, put in half an ounce of truffles and morels washed very clean, two spoonsful of ketchup, a gill of red wine, a piece of butter mixed with flour, season it with pepper and salt to your palate, put in the yolks of six hard eggs, stir it all together, cover it close, and let it stew till the sauce is thick and good; then put it in a dish, and send it for a first course dish.

Cellery a la Cream.

Take a dozen white heads of cellery, cut them about two inches long, wash them very clean, and boil them in water till they are tender; have ready half a pint of cream, with a little butter mixed with flour, a little nutmeg and salt, boil it up till it is thick and smooth, put in the cellery, give it a [...]oss or two, and then dish it up.

Cellery stewed.

Take a dozen white heads of cellery cut about two inches long, wash them clean, and put them into a stew-pan, with a pint of gravy, a glass of white wine, a bundle of sweet herbs, pepper and salt, cover them close, and stew them till they are tender; then take out the sweet herbs, put in a piece of butter mixed with flour, let it stew till it is thick, and then dish it up.

Sorrel stewed.

Pick and wash a good quantity of sorrel, put it into a sauce-pan, with a little salt, and boil it till it [Page] is tender; then strain it, squeeze it dry between two plates, chop it fine, and put it into a stew-pan, with a little gravy, a piece of butter, a little pepper and salt, and stew it for ten minutes; put it in the dish, and garnish with fried sippets.

Potatoes in Imitation of a Collar of Veal or Mutton.

Boil four pounds of potatoes, peel them, beat them in a mortar, with a little sack or mountain sugar, grated nutmeg, and a little beaten mace mix it up with the yolks of raw eggs and melted butter, make it like a collar of veal, rub it over with yolks of eggs, and strew a few bread-crumbs over it butter an earthen dish, put it on, and bake it of a nice brown; when done, put it in a dish; have ready for sauce half a pint of white wine, sweetened with sugar, beat up the yolks of two eggs, and a little grated nutmeg, put the eggs to the wine, and keep it stiring till it is thick, then pour it over the collar.

Potatoe Cakes.

Prepare them as before, work it up into a paste, and make it up into round cakes, or any shape you please, with moulds, put plenty of butter into a pan, and fry them brown; put them in a dish, with melted butter, sweet wine, and sugar mixed, poured over them for sauce.

Onions in Ragou.

Peel a pint of small button onions, take four large ones, peel them, and chop them small; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stew-pan, when, it is melted and done making a noise put in the onions, and fry them of a nice brown, put in a little flour, and shake them round till they are thick; then put in half a pint of gravy, a little Cayan pepper and salt, a tea-spoonful of mustard, and shake the pan round; when they are thick and well tasted put them in a dish, and garnish with fried crumbs of bread.

CHAP. XV.

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AUMLETS AND EGGS.

Plain Aumlet.

TAKE six eggs, beat them up well, strain them through a sieve, put in a little pepper and salt, and about two ounces of fresh butter in little bits, put four ounces of butter into a stew-pan, make it hot, then put in the eggs, and fry them gently till they are of a nice brown on the under side; do not turn the aumlet, but put it double, lay it in the dish, and garnish with curled parsley stuck in it.

Aumlet with sweet Herbs.

Beat and strain the eggs as before, chop a handful of parsley and a few sweet herbs very fine and put in, with two ounces of butter in bits, and some pepper and salt; put a quarter of a pound of butter in a pan, and fry it of a nice brown; (but take care it does not stick to the pan) double it, and lay it in a dish, with a little good gravy in it, or some melted butter, sack, and fine sugar mixed in a boat; garnish with parsley.

You may shred some cold ham very fine and put in, with parsley and herbs, or without, only the eggs, butter, and ham; or you may make them with two onions chopped very fine, clary or chives chopped fine.

Aumlet with Asparagas.

Beat up six eggs very well with a spoonful of cream, and strain them through a sieve; boil half a hundred asparagus tender, cut the green part as big as a pea and put in, with a little pepper and salt; put about a quarter of a pound of fresh butter into [Page] a stew-pan, make it hot, put in the ingredients, and fry it as before; double it, put it into a dish, and garnish with the heads of asparagus boiled.

Aumlet with Green Peas.

Beat up six eggs with a spoonful of cream, boil a pint of young green peas and put in, with a little pepper and salt, and fry it as before: put it in a dish and garnish with sprigs of parsley.

Aumlet with Sorrel or Spinach.

Boil the Sorrel or spinach well, squeeze out the juice between two plates, chop it fine, and put it with the eggs as before.

You may boil two artichoke bottoms very tender, chop them fine and put in, or artichoke aumlet.

Aumlet with Parmazan Cheese.

Beat up six eggs well, strain them through a sieve, mix a couple of spoonsful of Parmazan cheese grated, a little pepper, but no salt, about two ounces of butter, put butter into a pan, and fry it as before; then sprinkle some more grated Parmazan cheese over it, cut it out in slices about two inches wide, roll it up, put it into a dish, pour a little melted butter over it, and sprinkle some more Parmazan cheese on it, put it in the oven a quarter of an hour to colour, and send it up in a hot dish.

Aumlet of Beans.

Boil some beans of any fort till tender, and then chop them fine; beat up six eggs very well, strain them through a sieve, and put in the beans▪ with a little pepper and salt, and two ounces of butter; fry them as before directed, and garnish with parsley.

A pretty Dish of Eggs.

Boil six eggs hard, peel them, and cut them across [Page] in thin slices; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stew-pan, make it hot, put in your eggs, and fry them quick half a quarter of an hour; (but be careful not to break them) sprinkle them with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, put them in a dish before the fire, pour out all the fat, and shake in a little flour; have ready two shallots shred fine, put them in, with a gill of white wine, a small piece of butter, the juice of half a lemon, and stir it all together till it is thick; (if you have not sauce enough put in a little more wine) toast some thin slices of bread, cut them three cornerways, lay them round the dish, pour the sauce over, and send it to table hot.

Eggs a la Tripe.

Boil eight or ten eggs hard, take off the shells, and cut them in quarters lengthways; put some butter into a stew-pan, melt it, put in the eggs, with some shred parsley, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, put in a little flour, and shake the pan round; pour in as much cream as will be sufficient for sauce, toss the pan round carefully, but mind you do not break the eggs; when the sauce is thick and fine, put the eggs in a dish, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with lemon.

Eggs in Ragou.

Boil twelve eggs hard, take off the shells, and with a little knife very carefully cut the whites across longways, so that the whites may be in two and the yolks whole, and be careful neither to break the whites nor the yolks; chop a gill of pickled mushrooms very fine, half an ounce of truffles and morels boiled in three or four spoonsful of water, save the water, wash the truffles and morels, chop them fine, boil a little parsley and chop it fine, mix all these together with the truffle water you saved, grate in a little nutmeg, beaten mace, pepper and salt, put it into a stew-pan, with a gill of water or gravy, a gill red wine, a spoonful of ketchup, a little butter mixed [Page] with flour, stir all together, and let it boil up; fry a good quantity of crumbs of bread, lay the eggs in order in the dish, the hollow side of the whites uppermost, that they may be filled: then fill them with the fried crumbs of bread as high as they will lay, pour the sauce all over them, and garnish with fried crumbs of bread.

Eggs poached.

Have a stew-pan of spring water boiling gently, put in a spoonful of vinegar, break half a dozen eggs into separate cups▪ put them in. and boil them up a moment; then take them out with an egg slice, cut the ragged ends off with a sharp knife▪ and put them in spoons in a dish; or toast a thintoast round a loaf, butter it, cut off the crust, cut it in six pieces, and lay an egg on each piece.

Eggs buttered, with a Toast.

Cut a thin toast round a loaf, butter it on both sides, and cut it in square pieces; break six eggs into a stew-pan, beat them up well, put in a little pepper and salt, a quarter of a pound of butter, and a little cream, put them over a slow fire, and keep them stirring till the butter is melted, but take care they are not done too much, and then put them on the toast. You may brown them at the top with a hot iron or salamander if you please, or send them to table without.

Eggs and Collops fried.

Cut half a dozen rashers of ham, bacon, hung beef, or hung mutton, fry them, and put them before the fire to keep hot; have plenty of good fat boiling in a pan, break six eggs into separate cups, put them in, and fry them quick, but not too much; take them out with a slice, drain the fat off them, put the collops in the dish, and lay an egg on each.

You may broil the collops, lay them in a dish, with a poached egg on each.

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Eggs with Bread.

Take the crumb of a penny loaf and soak it in a quart of hot milk two hours, or till the bread is soft, then rub it through a coarse sieve, put to it two spoonsful of orange flower or rose water, sweeten it with sugar, and grate in a little nutmeg; take a deep dish and butter it, break as many eggs as will cover the bottom of the dish, pour in the bread and milk, set it in a tin oven before the fire, and half an hour will do it, or bake it in a slow oven.

Eggs forced.

Take two cabbage lettuces and scald them, with a few mushrooms, parsley, sorrel, and chervil, chop them very fine with the yolks of six hard eggs, put them in a stew-pan, season them with nutmeg and salt, and stew them in butter; when enough, put in a little cream, stir all about, and then pour it into the bottom of a dish▪ take the whites and chop them fine, with a little parsley, nutmeg, and salt; lay this round the brim of the dish, and brown it over with a hot iron or salamander.

Eggs with Lettuces.

Take six cabbage lettuces and scald them in fair water, squeeze them well, cut them across, and put them into a stew-pan, with a good piece of butter, seasoned with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, stew them gently half an hour, and chop them well together; when done, lay them in a dish, and put six eggs fried in butter over them, or six poached eggs, and garnish with Seville orange.

Eggs with stewed Spinach.

Pick, wash, and boil as much spinach as you want, squeeze it between two plates, chop it fine, and put it into a stew-pan, with a piece of butter, a little pepper and salt, stir it well over a slow fire for ten minutes, put it in a dish, and put the poached eggs on it.

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Eggs with Sorrel.

Pick, wash, and boil as much sorrel as you want, squeeze it between two plates, chop it, and put it into a stew-pan, with a piece of butter, a little pepper and salt, stir it over a slow fire for ten minutes, and put it in the bottom of a dish; have ready three eggs boiled hard, take off the shells, and cut them in two; poach three eggs, lay them over the sorrel, and the hard ones between; garnish the dish with fried sippets, and Seville orange cut in quarters.

Eggs with Broccoli.

Take a large bunch of Broccoli, trim it, and boil it, as directed in the chapter for roots and vegetables; cut a toast round a loaf, or as big as the dish you intend to send it on, toast it brown on both sides, butter it, cut it in four pieces, and lay it in the dish; put six eggs buttered on it, lay a large bunch of broccoli in the middle, put sprigs all round, and garnish the edge of the dish with small sprigs.

Eggs with Asparagus.

Take a large bundle of small asparagus, cut the green part the size of a pea, and boil it till tender; in the mean time have a toast round a loaf buttered, cut off the crust, cut it in four pieces, and put it in the dish; put six eggs buttered on it, strain off the asparagus in a sieve, put it over the eggs and toast, and send them up to table as hot as possible.

Eggs fried as round as Balls.

Take a deep frying-pan, put in three pounds of butter, clarify it, and strain it; clean out the frying-pan, put in the butter, make it boiling hot, and stir it with a stick till it runs round; then brake an egg in the middle, and turn it round with a stick till it is as hard as a poached egg, for the whirling of the butter will make it as round as a ball; then take it out with a slice, and put it in a dish before the fire. [Page] They will keep hot half an hour, and yet remain soft, so you may fry as many as you want. You may serve them on toasts, stewed spinach, or sorrel, and garnish with Seville orange cut in slices.

An Egg as big as twenty.

Take twenty eggs, separate the yolks from the whites, beat the yolks, but not the whites, and strain them both through a sieve; tie the yolks in a bladder as round as a ball, and boil them hard; put this ball into another bladder, put in the whites, tie them up ovel, boil them half an hour, and then throw them into cold water. When you have a grand sallad, cut them into quarters, and put round it. You may boil five or six in the same manner, or any quantity you please, to put in the middle of any ragou or fricassee of eggs.

Whites of Eggs a la Cream.

Take the whites of twelve eggs, beat them up well with four spoonsful of rose water, a little grated lemon-peel and nutmeg, sweetened with fine sugar; put them in four bladders, tie them in the shape of an egg, and boil them half an hour; lay them in a dish when cold; mix half a pint of cream, a gill of sack, and half the juice of a Seville orange, sweetened, with fine sugar; pour it over the eggs, and serve it as a side-dish for supper.

Eggs with Gravy.

Poach six new-laid eggs, and lay them nearly in a dish; make a gill of good gravy hot, with a little nutmeg, pepper, salt, and a tea-spoonful of vinegar; pour it over the eggs, and send them to table hot.

Eggs in Marinate.

Poach six eggs nicely, trim them, and lay them in the dish which you intend to send them to table in; make a sauce for them in the following manner; put [Page] two or three spoonsful of water into a stew-pan, with a gill of white gravy, a tea-spoonful of vinegar, a little pepper and salt, beat up the yolks of two eggs and put in, stir it over the fire till it begins to thicken, but not boil, and pour it over the eggs; when they are cold, garnish with parsley, and send them up for a second course or side dish for supper.

CHEESE.

Ramaquins of Cheese.

GRATE half a pound of Cheshire and half a pound of thin Gloucester cheese, put it into a stew-pan, with a gill of white wine, and keep it stirring over the fire till it is melted; then put in a spoonful of mustard, a little butter, and the yolks of four eggs beat up, stir it round till it is thick, and set it by to get cold: butter some small patty-pans, put it in, and bake it in a gentle oven till it [...] brown; then put it in a very hot dish, and send it away quick; or have a large pan of fat boiling, and drop it in with a spoon in drops, fry them quick and [...] put them on a sieve to drain, and then dish them up.

You may make them of Parmazan cheese if you [...] it

Ramaquins on Toasts.

Prepare your cheese as before; toast some thin toasts, and cut them in what shape you please, put them in the dish, and while your cheese is hot put it on the toast, and brown it with a hot iron or salamander, or put it in the oven a quarter of an hour, and send it to table hot and quick▪ as it soon gets cold.

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Cheese in Fondeux.

Cut half a pound of Cheshire and thin Gloncester cheese as thin as you can, put it into a stew pan, with a glass of white wine, as much cream, a little piece of butter, a few fine bread-crumbs, and keep it stirring over the fire till the cheese is melted; then put in a spoonful of mustard, the yolks of two eggs beat up, and stir it a moment; then put it into a [...]ilver dish and brown it with a very hot iron or salamander; have toasted sippets cut three-cornerways, and stick them round it for garnish.

Stewed Cheese.

Cut half a pound of Cheshire and Gloucester cheese in thin slices, put it into a stew-pan, with a little ale or white wine, and keep it stirring over the fire till it is melted; then put in a spoonful of mustard, the yolks of two eggs beat up, stir it a moment over the fire, then put it in a small deep dish, or soup-plate, and brown it with a very hot iron or salamander; have ready thin toasted sippets or fried ones, cut three-cornerways, stick them all round and in the middle, send it up hot and quick.

Wel [...]h Rabbit.

Cut a slice of bread a little wider than the cheese, cut off the crust, and toast it on both sides; cut a slice of cheese moderately thick, put it in a cheese-toaster, and toast one side; then put the toasted side downwards on the bread, and toast the other side; put pepper, salt, and mustard over it, cut it in pieces about an inch long, and send it up quick.

Scotch Rabbit.

Toast a piece of bread nicely on both sides and butter it: cut a slice of cheese nearly the size of the bread, put it in a cheese-toaster and toast one side; then put the toasted side on the bread, and toast the other side nicely.

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English Rabbit.

Toast a slice of bread on both sides, put it into a cheese-plate, pour a glass of red wine over it, and put it to the fire ti [...]l it soaks up the wine; then cut some cheese in very thin slices, and put it thick on the bread; put it in a tin oven before the fire, toast it till it is brown, and serve it up hot.

Or this way: toast your bread, soak it in the wine, and set it before the fire to keep hot; cut the cheese in very thin slices, rub some butter over a pewter plate, lay the cheese on it, pour in two or three spoonsful of white wine, set it over a chassing-dish of coals, and cover it with another plate for two or three minutes; uncover it, and stir it till it is done and well mixed; put in a little mustard put it on the bread, brown it with a hot iron or salamander, and send it away hot.

CHAP. XVI.
PUDDINGS.

Proper Rules to be observed in making Puddings.

WHEN you proceed to make your different puddings, have all your ingredients properly prepared in readiness before you begin to mix them: take particular care that your bag or cloth is clean, and not soapy; dip it in boiling water give it a shake, and flour it well, before you put in the pudding. If it is a batter pudding, tie it close; if a bread pudding, tie it a little loose, to give it room to swell; if you boil it in a bason, mould, or bowl, be sure to butter it before you put in the pudding, and tie a cloth over the top; always have plenty of [Page] water in the pot, and mind it boils before you put in the pudding; see that it keeps boiling, otherwise your pudding will be full of water and spoiled; turn it often, to prevent its sticking to the bottom. When it is done take it up; if in a bason, mould, or bowl, let it stand two or three minutes to cool; if in a cloth or bag, put it in any thing deep enough to hold it; then untie it, take the cloth o [...] the mould, &c. lay the upper side of the dish upon it, and turn it over; raise the mould, &c. gently up, if in a cloth untie it, and put the cloth over the edges of what it is in, turn the dish on it, turn it over, and take the cloth gently o [...]f for fear of breaking it. When you make a butter pudding, first mix the flour well with a little milk, then put in the other ingredients mix them well together, and it will be smooth and free from lumps. The best method for plain batter pudding is, to strain it through a coarse sieve, to prevent its being lumpy, or having the treadles of the eggs in it: and for all other puddings, strain the eggs after you have beat them. Batter and rice puddings baked, require a brisk oven to raise them; bread and custard puddings, time and a moderate oven. Remember to butter the bottom of your dish or pan all round, before you pour your pudding into it.

Stoak Pudding.

Take a pound of beef-suet, shred it very small, mix it up with fine flour and cold water into a good stiff paste, and roll it out; dip your cloth in hot water, flour it well, put it into a deep dish or round pan, and put the paste in the cloth; have beef, mutton, or pork steaks cut very thin, pepper and salt them, put them in the paste, and close it at the top; tie the cloth over it tight, put it into a large p [...]t of boiling water, (if it is a large pudding it will take five hours boiling if a small one three hours, and as your water wastes away put in more boiling water, to keep the pudding swimming; when it is done take it carefully up, and turn it out into a deep dish, for when it is cut it will swim over with gravy.

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Pigeon Pudding.

Make the crust as directed for steak pudding, and put it in the cloth; cut some beef steaks very thin and lay in, pick, singe, draw, and wash six pigeons, pepper and salt them; chop some parsley, mix it up with butter, and stuff the inside of the pigeons, put them on the steaks, lay a thin beef steak over them, close up the crust at the top, and tie the cloth tight; (it will take five hours boiling) when done, turn it carefully out into a deep dish.

You may make it of larks, or any other small birds, the same way.

Ox-Pith Pudding.

Get a quantity of ox-piths, and let them lie all night in soft water to soak out the blood; the next morning wash them clean, strip off the skins, and beat them with the back of a spoon in orange flower water till as thick and like pap; then take three pints of thick cream, and boil it with two or three blades of mace, a nutmeg quartered, and a stick of cinnamon; take half a pint of the best Jordan almonds, blanch and skin them, beat them in a mortar with a little of the cream, and as it dries put in more cream, first strain it from the spices, and when it is well mixed strain it through a sieve to the piths; take the yolks of ten eggs, the whites of but two, beat them very well, and strain them to the ingredients, with a spoonful of grated bread, or Naples biscuit, half a pound of fine sugar, the marrow of four large bones shred very small, a little salt, and mix all well together; put it in a small ox or hog's guts cleaned properly, and boil it very gently three quarters of an hour; or put a puff-paste round the edge of a deep dish, put it in, and bake it.

Calf's Foot Pudding.

Take two fine calf's feet, and boil them till they are tender, cut out the brown and fat, and mince [Page] them very small; take a pound and a half of suet, pick off the skins, and shred it very fine, six yolks and three whites of eggs beat well, the crumb of a half-penny roll grated, a pound of currants clean washed, picked, and rubbed in a cloth, as much milk as will moisten it, with the eggs, a handful of flour, some fine sugar, half a nutmeg grated, and a little salt, mix it all well together, put it in a cloth, and boil it five hours; when it is done put it in the dish, with plain butter, or butter, sack, and sugar mixed, and poured over it. Or put a thin puff-paste round the edge of a dish, put in the pudding, and bake it two hours.

Hunting Pudding.

Put six spoonsful of fine flour in a pan, with a gill of cream or new milk, and mix it up; beat up the whites of six and the yolks of ten eggs and put in, with one pound of beef-suet shred fine, a pound of currants well washed and picked, a pound of jarraisms stoned and chopped fine, two ounces of candied citron, orange and lemon-peel cut in thin slips, a little lemon peel shred fine, about two ounces of fine sugar, a spoonful of rose-water, a glass of brandy, a little grated nutmeg and beaten ginger, mix it all well together, tie it up in a cloth, and boil it five hours; when it is done take it up very carefully, turn it into the dish, and garnish the edge with powder sugar.

Plumb Pudding boiled.

Take a pound of flour and mix it into batter with half a pint of milk; beat up the yolks of eight and the whites of four eggs a pound of beef suet shred fine, a pound of raisins washed and picked, a pound of currants washed and picked, half a nutmeg grated, a tea-spoonful of beaten ginger, a little moist sugar, a glass of brandy, and a little lemon-peel shred fine, mix it all well together, tie it up in a cloth, and boil it four hours; when it is done turn it cut into a [Page] dish, and garnish with powder sugar, with melted butter, sweet wine, and sugar, mixed in a boat.

Plumb Pudding baked.

Take the crumb of a two-penny loaf and rub it through a cullender, boil a pint of milk, with a little lemon-peel, cinnamon, and a laurel leaf in it, strain it on the bread, cover it over, and let it stand till it is cold; have a pound of beef-suet shred fine, half a pound of raisins picked, a pound of currants washed and picked, six eggs, two spoonsful of flour, a little nutmeg and ginger, a spoonful of rose water a glass of brandy, a little lemon-peel shred fine, and half a pound of moist sugar; mix all these well together, butter the dish, pour it in, and bake it; when it is done turn it upside down in a hot dish, and sprinkle powder sugar over and round it.

Suet Pudding boiled.

Shred a pound of beef-suet fine, mix it with a pound of flour, a little salt and ginger, six eggs, and an much milk as will make it into a stiff batter, put it in a cloth, and boil it two hours; when it is done turn it into a dish, with plain butter in a boat.

Yorkshire Pudding.

Take a quart of new milk and six eggs, beat them well together, and mix them with flour to a good batter, rather thicker than pancake batter, beat it well till it is smooth, and put in a little salt, grated nutmeg, and ginger; butter a dripping of frying-pan, put it under a piece of beef, mutton, or a loin of veal that is roasting; put in the batter, and as soon as one part is done turn the other to the fire, till the top is all brown alike; then cut it in squares, and turn it till the other side is brown; put a fishdrainer in the dish, put the pudding on it, and send it to table hot.

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Narrow Pudding.

Take half a pound of Naples biscuit, or the same quantity of stale diet bread rub it through a cullender, put it into a stew-pan with three pints of new milk, put it over the fire, boil it up and stir it often to keep it from [...]ning, beat up nine eggs, strain them through a sieve, put them in, and sweeten it with sugar to your palate; put in a quarter of a pound of butter, half a nutmeg grated, a little lemon-peel shred fine, put it over the fire, and keep it stirring till it is thick; then take it off, and stir it till it is cold; put in a spoonful of rose water, a glass of brandy, and a very little powdered cinnamon; put a puff-paste round the edge of your dish, a very thin piece at the bottom, pour in the batter, and sprinkle on it a handful of currants clean picked and washed; take the marrow out of a large beef marrow bone, cut it in slices, wash it in water, and put it on as you fancy; cut some candied citron, lemon and orange-peel very thin, and lay round or over it, as you think proper, then bake it; when it is done send it to table hot.

You may make a larger or smaller quantity in the same manner, only adding or diminishing as above.

Marrow Pudding another Way.

Take a quart of new milk and boil it, with a stick of cinnamon, a little lemon-peel, and a laurel leaf, rub the crumb of a penny loaf through a cullender, put it in a pan, strain the milk through a sieve over it, and let it stand till it is cold; beat up six eggs put it into a stew-pan with the eggs, and sweeten it with sugar; put in a quarter of a pound of butter, a little marrow chopped fine a little lemon-peel shred fine, half a nutmeg grated put it over a gentle fire, and keep it stirring till it is thick; then take it off, stir it till it is cold, put in a spoonful of rose water, and a glass of brandy; lay a puff-paste round the edge of your dish, pour it in, put [Page] on currants, marrow, and sweetmeats as before, and bake it.

Vermicelli Pudding.

Take a quarter of a pound of vermicelli, and boil it in a pint of milk [...]ll it is tender, with a stick of cinnamon and a laurel leaf or two; then take out the cinnamon and laurel leaf, and put in half a pint of cream, a quarter of a pound of butter melted, the same weight of sugar, with the yolks of six eggs well beat; lay a puff-paste round the edge of your dish, put it in, and bake it three quarters of an hour in a moderate oven. For variety, you may add half a pound of currants clean washed and picked, or the marrow of a beef-bone, or both, if you wish to make it rich.

Oat Pudding,

Take of oats decorticated one pound, and new milk sufficient to cover it, six ounces of fine raisins stoned, the same quantity of currants clean washed and picked, a pound of beef-suet shred fine, six new-laid eggs beat fine, a little nutmeg, beaten ginger, and salt, mix all well together, put it into a deep dish, and bake it in a moderate oven two hours.

New College Puddings.

Take a quarter of a pound of Naples biscuit and rub it through a cullender, a quarter of a pound of currants clean washed and picked, the same quantity of beef-suet shred fine, a spoonful of sugar, a very little salt, a little lemon-peel shred fine, and a little grated nutmeg; mix all well together with the yolks of two eggs and a small glass of brandy, and make them about the size of turkies eggs, in what shape or form you please; put a quarter of a pound of butter in a pan, make it hot, and fry them of a fine brown all round; then put them on a sieve to drain, and lay them in a hot dish. For sauce, [Page] have melted butter, sweet wine, and sugar, mixed in a boat.

By observing the above direction you may make what quantity you want.

Orange Pudding.

Take the yolks of twelve and the whites of four eggs, and beat them well put half a pound of butter into a stew-pan and melt it, put it to the eggs, and beat them well together; grate in the rind of two fine Seville oranges half a pound of fine powder sugar, a spoonful of orange-flower water, one of rose water, a gill of sack, and half a pint of cream, with two Naples biscuits soaked in it, mix all well together, and squeeze in the juice of one orange, lay a puff-paste round the rim of the dish, put it in, and bake it; when it is done send it up hot to table.

Orange Pudding a second Way.

Beat up the yolks of twelve and the whites of four eggs, with half a pound of fresh butter melted, the same quantity of fine powder sugar, half a pint of cream, a spoonful of rose water, and a little grated nutmeg; cut the peeling of a fine Seville orange as thin as possible, and soak it in water for three or four hours, then beat it fine in a mortar till it is like a paste, mix it well with the ingredients, and squeeze in the juice of half an orange; put a puff-paste all round the edge and bottom of pour dish, pour it in, and bake it.

Orange Pudding a third Way.

Cut the rind of two fine Seville oranges as thin as you can, boil it till it is very tender in two or three different waters, then beat it fine in a mortar, or rub it through a sieve, boil a pint of new milk or cream and put over, take a quarter of a pound of Naples biscuit, beat up the yolks of eight and the whites of [Page] four eggs, with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter melted mix it with the milk and biscuit, a quarter of a pound of fine sugar, a spoonful of orange-flower or rose water a little grated nutmeg and lemon-peel, mix all the ingredients with the beaten orange-peel, and squeeze in the juice of one orange; lay a puff-paste round the edge of your dish, pour in the mixture, cut some candied citron, orange, or lemon-peel and put over it, in any shape you fancy, and bake it three quarters of an hour. Take care that it is cold before you put it in the dish you intend to bake it in.

Orange Pudding a fourth Way.

Take the outside rind of two fine Seville oranges cut very thin, boil it till it is tender in three separate waters, and rub it through a fine sieve; blanch half a pound of sweet almonds, pound them in a mortar, and keep adding a little rose water to prevent their oiling, put in the orange-peel and half a pound of fine sugar; beat up the yolks of twelve and the whites of six eggs with half a pound of butter, and mix all the ingredients well together till it is light and hollow; lay a puff-paste round the edge of your dish, and pour it in, cut some candied citron, orange, or lemon-peel in thin slips and put over it, and bake it three quarters of an hour.

Lemon Pudding.

Cut the rind of three lemons as thin as you can, boil it in three separate waters till it is very tender, and beat it fine like a paste in a mortar; boil a pint and a half of milk with a quarter of a pound of Naples biscuit, and put the lemon-peel to it; beat up the yolks of nine and the whites of six eggs, with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter melted, half a pound of fine sugar, and a spoonful of orange-flower or rose water mix all well together, put it over a gentle fire, keep it stirring till it is thick, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and set it by till it is cold; lay a puff-paste round the edge of the dish, put in the [Page] pudding, cut some candied citron, orange, or lemon-peel, and put over it, bake it three quarters of an hour, and send it up hot.

Lemon Pudding a second Way

Grate the rind of three fine lemons, beat the yolks of twelve and the whites of six eggs, put in half a pint of cream half a pound of fine sugar, a spoonful of orange-flower water, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter melted, beat all up well together, put it over a slow fire, and keep it stirring till it is thick▪ then take it off, squeeze in the juice of one large or two small lemons, and stir it till it is cold▪ lay a puff-paste round the edge and bottom of a dish, pour it in, with some candied citron, lemon, or orange-peel, cut thin and put over it, bake it three quarters of an hour, and send it to table hot.

Almond Pudding baked.

Take half a pound of sweet and six bitter almonds, blanch them, take the skins off, pound them in a mortar, and as you pound them put in a little cream to keep them from oiling; grate a quarter of a pound of Naples Biscuit, put it into a quart of new milk or cream and boil it up; beat eight eggs well, with a spoonful of orange flower and one of rose water, a little beaten cinnamon, half a nutmeg grated, half a pound of fine sugar and the same quantity of fresh butter melted; mix all the ingredients well together, put it over a gentle fire and keep it stirring till it is thick; then take it off put in a gill of sack, and stir it well till it is cold; lay a puff paste round the edge of a dish, put in the pudding, bake it three quarters of an hour, an send it to table hot.

Almond Pudding boiled.

Take a pound of sweet almonds, blanch them, take off the skins, and beat them fine in a mortar, with two spoonsful of rose water and a gill of sack o [...] [Page] mountain wine; beat up the yolks of six and the whites of three eggs and put in with half a pound of fresh butter melted, a quart of cream, a quarter of a pound of fine sugar, half a nutmeg grated, one spoonful of flour, and three spoonsful of crumbs of white bread, mix all well together, dip a cloth in hot water, flour it well, put in the pudding, and boil it one hour; when it is done turn it into the dish, and put melted butter, sack, and sugar mixed over it.

Ipswich Almond Pudding.

Grate about a quarter of a pound of white bread into a pint and a half of cream, blanch half a pound of sweet almonds, take off the skins, beat them fine in a mortar, with a spoonful of orange flower water, till they are like a paste; beat up the yolks of eight and the whites of four eggs, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter melted and the same quantity of fine sugar, mix all well together, put it over a slow fire, keep it stirring till it is thick, and then put it away till it is cold; lay a sheet of puff-paste at the bottom and round the edge of your dish, pour in the ingredients, and bake it half an hour.

Sago Pudding.

Take half a pound of sago, and wash it well in three hot waters, then put it in a sauce-pan, with a quart of new milk and a stick of cinnamon and boil it gently till it is thick; (but mind and stir it often, for it is apt to burn) then take out the cinnamon, stir in half a pound of fresh butter till it is melted and then pour it into a large stew-pan; beat up the yolks of nine and the whites of five eggs with a gill of sack, sweeten it with sugar to your taste, put in a quarter of a pound of currants clean washed, picked, and plumped in two spoonsful of sack and two of rose water, and half a nutmeg grated; mix all well together put it over a slow fire, keep it stirring till it is thick and then put it away to cool; lay a puff-paste round [Page] the edge of a dish, pour in the ingredients, bake it three quarters of an hour, and send it up hot to table.

Millet Pudding.

Take half a pound of millet seed, wash and pick it very clean, put to it a pound of course sugar, three quarts of milk, a whole nutmeg grated, break in half a pound of fresh butter in little bits, and mix it all well together; butter the bottom of a deep dish big enough to hold it, pour it in, and bake it.

Carrot Pudding.

Take some carrots, pare and wash them well, and grate them; take half a pound of grated carrot and one pound of bread crumbs, beat up the yolks of eight and the whites of four eggs with half a pint of cream, then stir in the carrot and bread-crumbs, with half a pound of fresh butter melted, half a pint of sack, three spoonsful of orange flower water, half a nutmeg grated, sweeten it with sugar to your palate, and mix it all well together; (if it is too thick put in a little more cream) lay a puff-paste round the edge of your dish, pour in the ingredients, and bake it one hour; (or you may put it in a cloth and boil it) when it is done put it in a dish, and pour melted butter, sweet wine and sugar mixed over it.

Carrot Pudding a second Way.

Take the crumb of a two-penny loaf, rub it through a cullender, and put it into a pan; boil a quart of new milk, with a stick of cinnamon, two laurel leaves, and a little lemon-peel, strain it through a sieve over the bread, cover it over, and let it stand till it is cold; in the mean time boil two or three carrots till they are very soft, bruise them, and rub them through a sieve; beat up eight eggs [Page] well, with two spoonsful of orange flower water, and half a pound of fresh butter melted; mix all the ingredients well together, sweeten it with half a pound of sugar, and grate in half a nutmeg; lay a puff-paste round the edge of the dish, pour the ingredients in, bake it one hour, and send it to table hot.

Rice Pudding.

Take a quarter of a pound of whole rice, wash and pick the dirt from it clean, put it into a sauce-pan, with a quart of new milk, a stick of cinnamon, a little lemon-peel, boil it gently till the rice is tender and thick, and stir it often to keep it from burning; take out the cinnamon and lemon-peel, put the rice into an earthen pan to cool, beat up the yolks of six and the whites of three eggs, stir them into the rice, with sugar to sweeten it to your palate, a little lemon-peel shred very fine, and a little grated nutmeg and ginger, mix all well together; lay a puff-paste round the edge of the dish, pour in the ingredients, and bake it.

Rice Pudding a Second Way.

Take a quarter of a pound of whole rice, wash and pick it clean, boil it in a quart of new milk till it is tender and thick, and put it into a pan to cool; beat up the yolks of six and the whites of three eggs, melt half a pound of fresh butter and put in, with a little beaten cinnamon, grated nutmeg, and lemon-peel shred fine, a quarter of pound of sugar, a spoonful of rose water, a quarter of a pound currants clean washed and picked, and a glass mountain wine, mix all well together; lay a puff paste round the edge of the dish, pour in the ingredients, and bake it one hour.

Rice Pudding a third Way.

Take half a pound of rice, wash and pick it well [Page] boil it in two quarts of water for half an hour, then strain it into a sieve, and let it stand till it is cold; lay a puff paste round the edge of the dish, put in the rice, beat up four eggs, with a pint and a half of milk, a quarter of a pound of sugar, a little lemon-peel shred fine, half a pound of beef or veal suit shred fine, pour these ingredients over the rice, and bake it one hour and a half. You may put in a quarter of pound of currants, well washed and picked, if you think proper.

Rice Pudding a fourth Way.

Take half a pound of ground rice, put it into a sauce-pan, with three pint [...] of milk, a stick of cinnamon, and a little lemon-peel, boil it gently till it is thick, and stir it often to keep it from burning; take out the cinnamon and lemon-peel, stir in half a pound of butter till it is melted, and then put it away to cool; beat up the yolks of six and the whites of three eggs, with a spoonful of rose water, a little lemon-peel shred fine, and a little grated nutmeg; when the rice is cold mix all well together, and sweeten it with sugar to your palate; lay a puff-paste round the edge of the dish, pour in the ingredients, bake it one hour, and send it to table hot.

Rice Pudding boiled.

Take half a pound of flour of rice, put it into a sauce-pan with a quart of milk, boil it gently till it is thick, keep it constantly stirring that it may not clot nor burn, then stir in half a pound of butter, and put it in an earthen pan to cool; beat up the yolks of ten and the whites of five eggs, with half a pint of milk or cream, the rind of a lemon grated, and a little nutmeg; when the rice is cold mix all well together, and sweeten it with sugar to your palate; butter some small moulds, China basons, or wooden bowls, put the pudding in, and tie cloths over them, and boil them half an hour, if small; if large three quarters of an hour; when they are [Page] done turn them into a dish, and pour melted butter, wine, and sugar mixed over them.

You may make half the quantity if you please.

Rice Pudding boiled a second Way.

Wash and pick a quarter of a pound of rice, tie it in a cloth with half a pound of raisins stoned, give the rice plenty of room to swell, and boil it three hours in plenty of water; when it is done turn it into a dish, pour melted butter and sugar on it, and grate a little nutmeg over all.

You may make it this way: wash and pick a quarter of a pound of rice, tie it in a cloth, but give it room to swell, and boil it one hour; then take it up, untie it, and with a spoon stir in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, grate in a little nutmeg, sweeten it to your taste, tie it up very close, and boil it one hour longer; take it up, and put it into the dish, with melted butter over it.

The Indians tie it up, and boil it three hours in a cloth; then turn it into a dish, and eat it with oil or butter mixed with it.

Simolina Rice Pudding.

A person has obtained a patent for making this rice, and is to be used without eggs in the following manner: put a quarter of a pound into a sauce-pan with a quart of new milk, boil it gently till it is thick, and keep it stirring all the while, to prevent its being in lumps and burning; then stir in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a little grated nutmeg and ginger, a little lemon-peel shred fine, sweeten it to your palate, and put it in a pan to cool; lay a puff-paste round the edge of the dish, and when the pudding is cold pour it in, put some candied sweetmeats over it, bake it in a gentle oven three quarters of an hour, and send it to table hot.

Spinach Pudding.

Take about a quarter of a peck of spinach, pick [Page] and wash it very clean, put it into a sauce-pan with a very little salt, cover it close, and boil it till it is tender; throw it in a sieve to drain, squeeze it between two plates, and chop it fine; beat up six eggs with half a pint of cream and the crumb of a stale roll grated fine, a little grated nutmeg, and a quarter of a pound of melted butter; mix these all well in a sauce-pan, keep it stirring till it is thick, and let it stand till it is cold; then butter a cloth, put it in, tie it tight, and boil it one hour: turn it into your dish; pour melted butter over it, and squeeze on it the juice of a Seville orange if you think proper. You may sweeten or not, as you please. If you bake it, you must put in a quarter of a pound of sugar, and use Naples biscuit instead of bread.

Quaking Pudding.

Take the crumb of a penny French roll, cut it in thin slices, boil a pint and a half of new milk or cream, with a stick of cinnamon, two laurel leaves, and a little lemon-peel; put the bread into a pan, strain the milk on it, cover it over, and let it stand till it is cold; then beat up the yolks of ten and the whites of six eggs, and mix it with a spoonful of flour, a little salt and grated nutmeg; butter a mould, put it in, tie a cloth of over the top, and boil it gently one hour; when it is done turn it very carefully into the dish, and send melted butter, sack, and sugar mixed in a boat.

Cream Pudding.

Boil a quart of cream with a stick of cinnamon, grate in half a nutmeg, and set it away to cool; blanch a quarter of a pound of almonds, take off the skins, and beat them in a mortar, with a spoonful of orange flower or rose water; beat up the yolks of eight and the whites of four eggs, strain them through a sieve to the cream, take out the cinnamon, mix in the almonds, with two spoonsful [Page] of flour, and beat all well together; take a thick cloth, wet and flour it, pour in the pudding, tie it close, and boil is three quarters of an hour pretty fast; when it is done take it out, turn it into the dish very carefully, pour melted butter and sack mixed on it, and sprinkle powdered sugar over all.

Oatmeal Pudding.

Take a pint of fine oatmeal, mix it with three pints of new milk till it is quite smooth, and boil it in a sauce-pan till it is smooth and thick, keeping it stirring all the time; put in half a pound of fresh butter, a little beaten mace and nutmeg, a gill of sack, and set it away to cool; then beat up the yolks of eight and, the whites of four eggs, and mix it well with the other ingredients; lay a puff-paste round the edge of the dish, pour it in, and bake it half an hour. You may put in half a pound of currants clean washed and picked, and boil it one hour, put it in the dish, and pour melted butter over it.

Custard Pudding boiled.

Take a pint of cream or new milk, boil it with a stick of cinnamon, a little lemon-peel, and let it stand to cool; beat up the yolks of five and the whites of three eggs, mix a spoonful of flour with the cream, then put in the eggs, with a gill of sack, strain it all through a sieve, grate in a little nutmeg, and sweeten it with fine powder sugar to your palate; wet a cloth, flour it, pour in the pudding, tie it, but not too close, and boil it three quarters of an hour; or butter a mould, bason, or small wooden bowl, put in the pudding, tie a cloth over the top, and boil it one hour; when it is done turn it gently into the dish, and pour melted butter and sugar mixed over it.

Custard Pudding baked.

Take a quart of new milk and boil it, with a stick [Page] of cinnamon a little lemon-peel, a laurel leaf, and a few coriander-seeds, sweeten it as it boils with loaf sugar, and then let it stand to cool; beat up eight eggs well with a little of the milk, and pour it backwards and forwards, in two pans, till the milk and eggs are well mixed, put in a spoonful of rose water, and strain it all through a sieve; lay a puff-paste round the edge of your dish, pour in the pudding, bake it, and send it up hot or cold to table.

Flour Pudding.

Take a quart of new milk, beat up the yolks of eight and the whites of four eggs with a quarter of a pint of the milk, stir in four large spoonsful of flour, and beat it well together till it is smooth; boil six bitter almonds in two spoonsful of water, pour the water on the eggs, take the skins off the almonds, and beat them fine in a mortar with a spoonful of milk; then mix it with the rest of the milk, a teaspoonful of salt, one of beaten ginger, and a little autmeg grated mix all well together, dip your cloth into boiling water, flour it, pour in the pudding, tie it rather slack, boil it an hour and a quarter, turn it into the dish, and pour melted butter over it.

Batter Pudding.

Put six large spoonsful of flour into a pan, and mix it with a quart of milk till it is smooth, beat up the yolks of six and whites of three eggs and put in, strain it through a sieve, then put in a tea-spoonful of salt, one of beaten ginger, and stir it well together; dip your cloth into boiling water, flour it, pour in the pudding, tie it rather close, and boil it one hour; when it is done put it into the dish, and pour melted butter over it.

You may put in ripe currants, apricots, small plumbs, damsons, or white bullis, for a change, when in season; but it will require half an hour's more boiling with the fruit in it.

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Batter Pudding another Way.

Put six spoonsful of flour into a pan, and by degrees mix in a quart of new milk, put in a tea-spoonful of salt one of beaten ginger, two spoonsful of the tincture of saffron, and strain it through a sieve; dip your cloth in boiling water, flour it, pour in the pudding, tie it close, and boil it one hour and a quarter; put it in the dish, and pour melted butter over it.

Grateful Pudding.

Rub a pound of the crumb of white bread through a fine cullender, put to it a pound of flour, a pound of raisins stoned, a pound of currants clean washed and picked, half a pound of moist sugar, a little beaten ginger, and eight eggs beaten up with a pint of milk, mix all the ingredients well together, and boil or bake it. If you boil it, it will take two hours; if you bake it, one hour will do. You may use cream instead of milk if you have it.

Bread Puddings.

Take the crumb of two penny French rolls and cut it in thin slices, boil a quart of milk, with a stick of cinnamon, two laurel leaves, and a little lemon-peel, strain it on the bread, cover it over, and let it stand till it is cold, beat up the yolks of eight and the whites of four eggs, strain them through a sieve to take out the treadles, put them to the bread and milk, with a spoonful of flour, half a pound of sugar, and a little grated nutmeg and ginger, mix it all well together; dip the cloth into boiling water, flour it, put in the pudding, tie it close, and boil it one hour; then put it into the dish, with melted butter and sugar in a boat.

Bread Pudding a second Way.

Take the crumb of a stale penny loaf, rub it through a cullender, and put it into an earthen pan; boil a quart of cream with a stick of cinnamon, a little [Page] lemon-peel, and two laurel leaves, strain it on the bread, cover it over, and let it stand till it is cold; take twelve bitter almonds, put them in hot water, take off the skins, and heat them fine in a mortar, with two spoonsful of rose water, till they are of a fine paste; beat up the yolks of eight and the whites of four eggs, beat up the bread and cream, strain the eggs through a sieve to it, with half a pound of sugar, put in the almonds, with half a nutmeg grated, a spoonful of flour, and half a pound of currants clean washed and picked, mix it all well together; dip the cloth into boiling water, flour it, put in the pudding, tie it, but not too close, and boil it one hour; or butter a mould, China or wooden bowl, tie a cloth over the top, and boil it one hour; when it is done turn it into the dish, pour melted butter, wine, and sugar mixed on it, and sprinkle it and the dish all over with powder sugar.

Bread Pudding a third Way.

Take two half penny rolls, and slice them very thin, crust and all, (if they are stale grate them with a grater) boil a pint of new milk and pour on them, cover them over, and let them stand to cool, them beat the bread and milk well, put in a little melted butter, beat up two eggs and put in, with a little salt, nutmeg, and ginger, mix all well together, put it in a cloth, and boil it three quarters of an hour; then turn it into the dish, pour melted butter, sugar, and a spoonful of vinegar mixed over it.

Bread Pudding baked.

Take the crumb of a two penny loaf, cut it in thin slices, and put it in an earthen pan; boil a quart of milk, with a little cinnamon, lemon-peel, and a laurel leaf, strain it to the bread, cover it over, and let it stand till it is cold; beat up four eggs and put to it, with two spoonsful of flour, half a pound of sugar, a spoonful of ginger, and a pound of currants washed and picked clean, all mixed well together; butter a pan or dish, pour in the pudding, and bake it.

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Bread and Butter Pudding.

Take a penny loaf, and cut it into thin slices of bread and butter, the same as you do for tea, butter the bottom of the dish, and cover it with the slices of bread and butter, then sprinkle a few currants on them clean washed and picked, then a layer of bread and butter, and then currants, till you have put all the bread and butter in [...] beat up four eggs with a pint of milk, a little salt, grated nutmeg, sweeten it to your palate, put in a spoonful of rose water, pour it over the bread and butter, and bake it half an hour.

Transparent Pudding.

Break eight eggs into a stew-pan, and beat them well with half a pound of fresh butter, the same quantity of fine powder sugar, and half a nutmeg grated, put it on the fire, and keep it stirring till it is the thickness of buttered eggs, then put it away to cool; put a puff-paste round the edge of the dish, pour in the pudding, bake it half an hour in a moderate oven, and send it to table hot.

Puddings in little Dishes.

Take the crumb of a penny loaf and rub it through a cullender, boil a pint of cream and pour over it, cover it close, let it stand till it is cold, beat it fine, and great in half a nutmeg; beat up the yolks of four and the whites of two eggs and put in, with a quarter of a pound of sugar, beat all well together; have five little wooden dishes with tops to them, one larger than the rest, and fill the large one with the following ingredients: blanch and skin an ounce of sweet almonds, beat them fine with a spoonful of rose water, and mix with it as much pudding as will fill the dish; colour one yellow, with saffron tied in a bag and squeezed through; one red, with a little cochineal bruised and put in a spoonful of boiling water; one green, with spinach juice; and one blue, with syrup of violets; tie the covers on with pack thread, [Page] when your pot boils put them in, and boil them one hour; when they are done turn them out into a dish, the white one in the middle, and the coloured ones all round, pour some melted butter and a glass of sack mixed on them, and sprinkle powdered sugar over them and the dish. Be sure to butter your dishes well before you put in the puddings.

Sweetmeat Pudding.

Lay a thin puff-paste all over the dish; then take candied citron, lemon and orange peel, an ounce of each, cut them in thin slices, and lay them all over the bottom of the dish; bead up the yolks of eight and the whites of two eggs, with a gill of cream, half a pound of fine sugar, and the same quantity of fresh butter melted, beat it all well together, and when the oven is ready pour it over the sweet meats, and bake it one hour in a moderate oven.

Ratifia Pudding.

Boil a quart of cream with a stick of cinnamon and six laurel leaves; then take out the cinnamon and laurel leaves, and break in half a pound of Naples biscuit, the same quantity of butter, half a nutmeg grated, and a quarter of a pound of sugar; take two ounces of sweet almonds and four bitter ones, (not four ounces) blanch them, take off the skins, and beat them fine in a marble mortar with two spoonsful of orange-flower water; beat up the yolks of five eggs, mix all well together, put it over the fire, keep it stirring till it is thick, and then put it away to cool; when it is cold put it into a dish, with a puff-paste round the edge of it, sprinkle powder sugar over the pudding, and bake it half an hour in a moderate oven.

Plain Pudding.

Boil a quart of cream with four or five laurel leaves; then take out the laurel leaves, and stir in as much flour as will make it a thick hasty pudding, take it off, then stir in half a pound of fresh butter, a quarter [Page] of a pound of sugar, half a nutmeg, grated, a little salt, and twelve yolks and six whites of eggs well beaten; mix all well together butter a dish, pour it in, and bake it three quarters of an hour in a moderate oven.

Chesnut Pudding.

Put two dozen chesnuts into a sauce-pan of water and boil them half an hour; then take off the shells and skins, and beat them fine in a marble mortar, with a little orange-flower or rose water and sack, till they are of a fine paste; beat up the yolks of twelve and the whites of six eggs, mix them with three pints of cream or new milk, great in half a nutmeg, put in half a pound of fresh butter melted, the same quantity of sugar, and a tea spoonful of salt, mix all well together, put it over the fire, and keep it stirring till it is thick, then take it off, and set it away to cool; lay a puff-paste round the edge of the dish, pour in the pudding, and bake it one hour.

Cowslip Pudding.

Get about half a peck of cowslips, pick the flowers off, chop and pound them fine, with a quarter of a pound of Naples biscuit grated, and a pint and a half of new milk or cream, boil them altogether a little, and then take them off the fire; beat up the yolks of eight and the whites of four eggs with a little cream and a spoonful of rose water, sweeten it to your palate, mix all well together, put it over a slow fire, keep it stirring till it is thick, and then set it away to cool; lay a puff-paste round the edge of the dish, pour in the pudding, and hake it half an hour; when it is done sprinkle some fine powdered sugar over it, and send it to table hot.

Apricot Pudding.

Take a dozen apricots and coddle them will they are tender, take the stones out, bruise them, and [Page] rub them through a sieve; beat up the yolks of six and the whites of three eggs, with a pint of cream and a quarter of a pound of fine sugar, mix them all together; lay a puff-paste all over the dish, pour in the ingredients, and bake it half an hour in a moderate oven; when it is enough sprinkle some fine powder sugar over it, and send it to table hot.

You may dress white pear plumbs in the same manner.

Quince Pudding.

Take six quinces, pare them very thin, cut them in quarters, put them into a sauce-pan, with a little water and lemon-peel, cover them close, and stew them gently till they are tender; then rub them through a sieve, mix it with sugar very sweet, and put in a little beaten cinnamon and ginger; beat up four eggs with a pint of cream or new milk, and stir it well into the quinces till they are of a good thickness; lay a puff-paste round the edge of the dish, or butter it, pour in the pudding, bake it three quarters of an hour in a moderate oven, and send it to table hot.

Italian Pudding.

Lay a puff-paste over the bottom and round the edge of the dish, pare and slice twelve pippins and lay in it, cut some candied orange-peel fine and throw over them, with a quarter of a pound of sugar and half a pint of red wine; take a pint of cream, and slice some French rolls very thin into it, as much as will make it thick, beat up ten eggs well and put into the cream and bread, pour it over the rest, and bake it one hour in a moderate oven.

Pearl Barley Pudding.

Take half a pound of pearl barley, wash it clean, and put to it three pints of new milk, a quarter of a pound of sugar, and half a nutmeg grated, put [Page] it into a deep earthen pan, and bake it one hour with the brown bread; take it out of the oven, and let it stand till it is cold; then beat up six eggs and mix with it, butter a dish, pour it in, and bake it one hour longer.

Pearl Barley Pudding a second Way.

Take half a pound of pearl barley, and boil it in two quarts of water till it is tender, strain it in a sieve, put it into a sauce-pan with a quart of milk, and boil it a quarter of an hour; put in a little beaten cinnamon, grated ginger and nutmeg, and sweeten it to your palate, put in a quarter of a pound of melted butter, beat up eight eggs with a spoonful of rose water, mix all well together, put it over a slow fire, keep it stirring till it is thick, and then let it stand to cool; when it is cold butter a dish, pour it in, and bake it one hour.

French Barley Pudding.

Take half a pound of French barley, and boil it in two quarts of milk till it is tender; beat up six eggs well and mix with a quart of cream, a spoonful of orange-flower or rose-water, and a pound of fresh butter melted, strain off the barley and mix with it, with half a pound of sugar; butter the bottom of a deep dish, pour it in, and ba [...] it two hours.

Apple Pudding baked.

Pare twelve large pippins, cut them in quarters, and core them, put them into a sauce-pan, with a little water and a piece of lemon-peel, cover them, and stew them till they are tender; then [...]eat them well, stir in half a pound of loaf sugar, the juice of a lemon, some lemon-peel shred fine, half a nutmeg grated, beat up the yolks of eight eggs and put in, with a glass of sack, and mix all well together; lay a puff-paste round the edge of the dish, [Page] pour in the pudding, and bake it half an hour in a moderate oven; when it is done strew some fine powdered sugar over it, and send it up hot.

Apple Pudding boiled.

Take about a pound of flour and half a pound of butter, and rub it smooth, or half a pound of beefs [...]t shred very fine, make it into a stiff-paste with cold water, and roll it out round about half an inch thick; lay the cloth in a round deep pan or sieve, flour it, and put the crust on it; pare as many apples that will boil well as will fill the crust, cut them in quarters, core them, and put them in till the crust is full, chop some lemon-peel very fine and put in, with a little quince marmalade, close it at the top, and tie the cloth tight; if a small one, boil it two hours; a large one, three or four; when it is done take it up, turn out the part that it was tied at down wards in a deep dish, cut a piece off the top, mash the apples with a spoon, and mix in a little butter and sugar; put the piece on the top again, and send it to table hot, with fine powder sugar and slices of cold butter in plates.

Pruen Pudding.

Mix a pound of flour with a quart of milk, beat up six eggs and mix with it, with a little salt and a spoonful of beaten ginger; beat it well till it is a fine stiff batter, put in a pound of pruens, tie it in a cloth, and boil it one hour and a half; when it is done put it in a dish, and pour melted butter over it. If damsons are in season you may use them the same way.

Spoonful Pudding.

Mix a spoonful of flour with the same quantity of cream, one egg, a little grated nutmeg, ginger, and salt, mix it well together; butter a little wooden bowl or small bason, put in the pudding, tie a cloth [Page] over the top, and boil it half an hour. You may add a few currants clean washed and picked.

Citron Pudding.

Mix half a pint of cream with a spoonful of fine flour, two ounces of fine powder sugar, a little grated nutmeg, and three eggs beat up fine, mix them all well together; butter some small moulds or cups, pour [...]in the ingredients, cut two ounces of candied citron in slips and put in, and bake them a quarter of an hour in a quick oven; then turn them out into a dish, sprinkle powder sugar over them, and send them to table hot.

Lemon Tower Pudding.

Take three fine lemons and grate the outward rind off, put it into a marble mortar, with three quarters of a pound of powder sugar, the same quantity of fresh butter, the yolks of eight eggs, and the juice of one lemon, beat it well for one hour; lay a thin puff-paste all over a deep dish, and pour in the pudding, put some thin slips of puff-paste, or paste cut in the shape of leaves over it, and bake it three quarters of an hour.

You may make an orange pudding the same way, only you must pare the rinds off very thin, and boil them in three different waters till they are tender and the bitterness is gone off.

Potatoe Pudding.

Take two pounds of potatoes, boil them, peel them, bruise them fine, and rub them through a sieve with the back of a wooden spoon, mix them with half a pound of fine sugar, a pound of fresh butter melted, a glass of sack or brandy, half a nutmeg grated, a little lemon peel shred fine, and beat up six eggs well and put in; mix all the ingredients well together, and put in half a pound of currants clean washed and picked; dip your cloth into boiling water, put in [Page] the pudding, tie it close, and boil it one hour; when it is done turn it into the dish, pour melted butter, sack and sugar mixed over it, and send it to table [...]ot. You may leave out the currants if you please.

Potatoe Pudding a second Way.

Boil two pounds of white potatoes, peel them, and bruise them fine in a mortar, with half a pound of melted butter, and the yolks of four eggs; put it into a cloth, and boil it half an hour; then turn it into the dish, pour melted butter, with a glass of sweet wine and the juice of a Seville orange mixed over it, and stew powder sugar over all.

Potatoe Pudding a third Way.

Boil two pounds of mealy potatoes, peel them, bruise them in a mortar, and rub them through a fine sieve with the back of a wooden spoon; then mix them up with half a pound of melted butter, beat up the yolks of eight and the whites of four eggs, with half a pint of cream, half a pound of fine sugar, half a nutmeg grated, a gill of sack, and a glass of brandy, mix the ingredients all well together; lay a puff-paste round the edge of the dish, pour in the pudding, make it smooth at the top, and put on same candied citron, lemon or orange-peel cut in thin slips, and bake it one hour in a moderate oven. You may put in half a pound of currants clean washed and picked, or strew a few currants on the top with the sweetmeats.

Yam Pudding.

Take about two pounds of yam, [...] it till it is tender, mash it and rub [...] be it up the yolks of eight [...] with half a pint of [...] butter, the same [...] small glass of brandy [...] ginger, a tea-spoon [...] [Page] flower or rose water, put in the yam, and mix all well together; either put it in a cloth, and boil it one hour, or lay a puff-paste round the edge of the dish, pour it in, and bake it three quarters of an hour.

You may put in half a pound of currants well washed and picked.

Flour Hasty Pudding.

Take a quart of milk, put in four bay leaves, and [...] the [...] to boil; beat up the yolks of two eggs [...] cold milk and salt, stir them into the milk, take [...] bay leaves, then with a wood [...] spoon in one [...] and flour in the [...], stir it [...] it is of a [...] thickness, but not too thick, [...] it stirring, [...] it boil; then pour it into a [...]eep dish, and put pieces of butter here and there on it.

You may put a piece of butter in the milk instead of the eggs if you like it best.

Oatmeal Hasty Pudding.

Put a quart of milk on the fire, and when it boils put in a piece of butter and a little salt, then stir in the oatmeal as you do the flour till it is of the same thickness, keep it stirring, and let it boil a few minutes; then pour it into a deep dish, and stick pieces of butter in it; or eat it with wine and sugar, on [...] and sugar, or cream, as you like best.

Almond Puddings in Skins.

Take a pound and a half of Jordan almonds, boil them one minute, take off the skins, and beat them [...] in a marble mortar with a little rose water to keep them from oiling: then put in a pound of fine bread crumbs, a pound and a quarter of fine sugar, a quarter of an ounce of cinnamon, a small nutmeg beat fine, half a pound of melted butter, the yolks of eight and the whites of four eggs, beat well with a pint of sack and half a pint of cream, (first boil the [Page] the cream with a little saffron, and strain it through a lawn sieve) boil a quarter of a pound of vermicelli a minute in water, strain it off in a sieve [...] and mix all the ingredients well together; have some hog's guts nice and [...], fill them only half full, and as you put in the ingredients put in a little citron cut small here and there, tie both ends of the gut tight, and boil them gently a quarter of an hour; then put them in a dish, and [...] them hot to table.

You may, for a change, put in half a pound of currants clean washed and picked.

Tansey Pudding boiled.

Boil a quart of cream, and put it over a quarter of a pound of Naples biscuit; beat up the yolks of eight and the whites of four eggs, put a few tansey leaves with a handful of spinach in a mortar and bruise them, squeeze the juice out through a clean rag, put in half a pound of sugar, and a little grated nutmeg, mix all the ingredients well together, put it over the fire, and keep it stirring till it is thick; then put it away to cool, and when it is cold tie it tight in a cloth, and boil it one hour; when it is done take it up, carefully turn it into a dish, and pour melted butter, sweet wine, and sugar mixed over it.

Tansey Pudding with Almonds.

Take the crumb of a penny French roll and slice it very thin, boil a pint of cream and pour on it, and cover it over; take a quarter of a pound of almonds, boil them one minute take off the skins, and beat them in a marble mor [...], with two spoonsful of rose water; beat up six eggs well, and mix with the eggs a quarter of a pound of fine sugar, a little grated nutmeg, and a glass of brandy; bruise about a dozen leaves of tansey with a handful of spinach, squeeze the juice through a clean rag and put in; mix all the ingredients well together with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter melted, put it over a slow fire, keep it stirring till it is thick, and then put it away to [Page] cool; when it is cold tie it in a cloth, and boil it one hour; then turn it into a dish, and pour melted butter, sweet wine, and sugar mixed over it.

You may put a puff-paste round the edge of the dish, pour in the ingredients, and bake it.

Tansey Pudding baked.

Boil a quart of milk with a little lemon-peel and two laurel leaves, strain it over a quarter of a pound of Naples biscuit; beat up the yolks of eight and the whites of four eggs with a spoonful of rose water; put a handful of tansey leaves to two handsful of spinach, bruise them in a mortar, and squeeze the juice through a clean rag, grate in half a nutmeg, put in half a pound of fine sugar, and a quarter of a pound of butter melted; mix the ingredients all together, put it over a slow fire, and keep it stirring till it is thick; then take it off, set it away to cool, and stir in a glass of brandy; put a puff-paste round the edge of the dish, pour in the ingredients, put a little candied sweetmeats over it, and bake it three quarters of an hour in a moderate oven.

Little Cheese Curd Puddings.

Take a gallon of milk and turn it with rennet, then drain all the curd from the whey, put the curd into a mortar, and beat it up with half a pound of fresh butter till the curd and butter are well mixed; then beat up the yolks of six and the whites of three eggs and strain them to the curd, with two Naples biscuits and the crumb of a halfpenny roll grated, mix the ingredients well together, sweeten it to your palate, and grate in half a nutmeg; butter your patty-pans, put in the pudding, and bake them in a slack oven; when they are done turn them out into a dish, cut candied citron and orange-peel in slips about an inch long, and blanched almonds in slips, and stick on the tops of the puddings, as you fancy, pour melted butter and sack mixed in the dish, and sprinkle powder sugar over all.

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Suet Dumplins.

Take a pound of beef-suet and shred it fine, put it to a pound of flour, a tea-spoonful of salt, and a little grated ginger, mix it up with two eggs and milk to a stiff paste, put a quarter of a pound of currants clean washed and picked to half of it, roll them about three inches long, and flatten them with your hand; have a pot of water boiling, put them in, and boil them twenty minutes; when they are done take them up, cut a slit in the middle, put in a thin slice of butter, and send them to table hot.

Suet Dumplins a second Way.

Take a pound of beef-suet and shred it fine, put it to a pound of flour, a tea-spoonful of salt, and a little grated ginger, mix it up with four eggs well beaten, and milk till it is a stiff batter; then put them into cloths the size of a tennis ball or a goose's egg, and boil them one hour; then turn them into a dish, with melted butter in a boat.

Yeast Dumplins.

Make a light dough, as for bread, with flour, water, salt, and yeast, cover it with a cloth, and set it before the fire for half an hour to rise; have a sauce-pan of water on the fire boiling, make the dough into little round balls as big as a hen's egg, flatten them with your hand, put them into the boiling water, and boil them ten minutes; (mind they do not stick to the bottom, as that will make them heavy) when they are done put them in a dish, and pour melted butter, sugar, and a spoonful of vinegar mixed over them.

If there is a baker near you, the best way is to send for as much dough as you want, and that will save you a great deal of trouble.

Norfolk Dumplins.

Break two eggs into half a pint of milk, and [Page] beat them up, then mix it with flour to a stiff batter, and put in a little salt; put a sauce-pan of water on the fire, and when it boils drop the batter in with a large spoon, and boil them quick for five minutes; then carefully take them out with a slice, lay them cut with a slice, lay them on a sieve to drain a minute, put them into a dish, cut a piece of butter in thin slices and stir amongst them, and send them up as hot as you can.

Hard Dumplins.

Mix some flour and water with [...] little salt and beaten ginger into a stiff paste, [...] some flour in your hand, and roll them out in balls as big as a turkey's egg; have a sauce-pan of water boiling, put them in, and boil them half an hour; or if you are boiling a piece of beef, boil them with it, which will be better; (you may add a few currants for a change) when they are done put them in a dish, with melted butter in a boat.

Hard Dumplins a second Way.

Rub a little butter into your flour, with a little salt, and mix it into a stiff paste with milk, make them in round balls, and boil them as before.

Apple Dumplins.

Make a puff-paste, but not too rich, pare as many large apples as you want, cut them in quarters, and take out the cores; roll a piece of crust round, enough for one large or two small apples, put in the apple, with a little lemon-peel shred fine, and with your hand make them up like a ball, with a little flour; have a pot of water boiling, take a clean cloth, dip it in the water, and flour it, tie each dumplin by itself, put them in the water boiling, and boil them three quarters of an hour; then take them up, put them in a dish, strew powder sugar over them, with pats or slices of butter and powder sugar in plates.

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Apple Dumplins a second Way.

Take half a dozen of the largest apples you can get, pare them, and take out the cores with an apple corer, fill the holes with quince or orange marmalade, or with beaten cinnamon and lemon-peel shred fine, mixed with powder sugar; rub half a pound of butter with a pound of flour, make it into a stiff paste with cold water, roll a piece out round, put in the apple, and close the paste over it, tie them in separate cloths, and boil them one hour; then carefully turn them into a dish, sprinkle powder sugar over them, with pats or slices of butter and powder sugar in plates.

CHAP. XVII.

PIES.

Proper rules to be observed in making and baking Pies.

WHEN you heat your oven, it must be regulated according to the pie you intend to bake: for a venison pasty it must be well heated, as that requires a great deal of soaking; and raised pies must have a quick oven, and well closed up, or else your pie will fall in the sides. Never put any liquor in till it is half baked; then take it out, make a hole in the middle of the lid, and with a funnel put in what gravy you think fit: by this means your ingredients in the pie will eat better, and prevent it from looking soddened; and if the pie is raised properly it will not run, for when it runs it always spoils it. For light puff-paste a moderate heated oven, but not too slack, as that will deprive it of the light appearance it should have; and a quick oven will catch [Page] and burn it, without giving it time to rise: the best way is, to roll out a bit of paste and put it into the oven, to try whether it is too hot or not, leed tarts should have a slow oven, or the icing will be brown before the paste is thoroughly baked. When you put in a venison pasty, raised or meat pie, put a sheet of paper over it, and that will prevent it from catching.

Great care must be taken of the butter for making paste, according to the different seasons, in order to make it light and good: in cold weather it should be worked well, to make it pliable; and if salt butter, well washed in fresh water. In hot weather you should put it in a cold cellar the over-night, in the morning put it in cold spring water, and handle it as little as possible. Make your paste in hot weather as early as you can in the morning, before the sun has too much power, and keep it in a cold place till you want to bake it.

Puff-Paste.

Take a quarter of a peck of fine flour, and rub in a pound of butter till it is fine, make it up in a light paste with cold water, stiff enough to work it up, but do not work it too much, as that will make it heavy; then roll it out about as thick as a crown piece, put a layer of butter in lumps as big as a nutmeg all over it, sprinkle a little flour over it, and double it, roll it out again, and double it three or four times, then it will be sit for use, either for pies, tarts, or any thing else that requires it. You may make a larger or smaller quantity, by adding or diminishing the quantity of flour and butter.

Tart Paste.

Take a pound of flour and rub in three quarters of a pound of butter very fine, mix it up to a stiff paste with a little cold water, work it well, and roll it out thin for the use you want it.

Tart Paste another Way.

Mix a pound of flour, three quarters of a pound of [Page] butter, and four ounces of fine sugar well together, make it into a stiff paste with a little cold water, work it well with your hands, and then roll it out thin for use. You may put the yolk of an egg in if you like it.

Raising Paste.

Put a pound of butter into a quart of water, and boil it till the butter is melted, take a quarter of a peck of fine flour, make a hole in the middle of it, pour in all the butter and as much of the water as will make it a very stiff paste, work it well, and mind that it is very stir: put it under a piece of flannel before the fire for half an hour to sweat, then take what quantity you want, (and keep the other covered to keep it warm) and work it well in what shape you choose to have it.

It will serve either for large or small pies or custards; and by this method you may make more or less by the same rules, according to the quantity that you have occasion for; as this is sufficient for one good sized pie, ornaments &c.

Another raising Paste.

Take two pounds of beef, mutton, or lamb suet shred fine, put it into a sauce-pan with a little water, cover it close, put it over a slow fire, and render it, but not too much; then strain it through a sieve into a gallon of cold water, let it stand for one hour, put it into a sauce-pan with a quart of water, and boil it up; take half a peck of flour, make a round hole in the middle, pour in all the fat, and as much water as will make it into a stiff paste, and work it well up; then put it under a piece of flannel before the fire, and proceed as before.

Rubbed Paste.

Rub a pound of butter into two pounds of flour till it is fine, put in the yolks of two eggs, mix it well [Page] up with a little cold water, and work it with your hands for a few minutes; then you may use it for tarts or common meat pies.

Dripping Paste.

Take two pounds of clean beef-dripping and boil it up in a sauce-pan, strain it through a sieve into two gallons of cold water, let it stand in it for two hours, (if it is cold weather you may work it in the water well with your hands) and make puff-paste with the same as with butter; if hot weather, put it into a quarter of a peck of flour, and make it into a stiff paste with a little cold water.

You may render suet the same as for raising crust.

Crackling Paste.

Take a pound of almonds, scald them in boiling water, take off the skins, wipe them dry with a clean cloth, beat them in a mortar very fine with a little rose or orange-flower water and the white of an egg; then rub it through a sieve with the back of a spoon to take out the lumps, work it well on a dish till it is pliable, and roll it out thin for a bottom to put preserved fruit on, with leaves of puff-paste baked and put over it.

Shrewsbury Paste.

Rub half a pound of butter with a pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of powder sugar, the yolks of three eggs, and a little milk to moisten it, work it up into a stiff paste, and roll it out thin for tarts, &c.

Crocant Paste.

Take one pound of flour and two ounces of fine powder sugar, make a hole in the middle, and put in two spoonsful of rose water, and the yolks of as many eggs as will make it a stiff paste, work it up with your hands, put it into a mortar, and beat it well for half an hour; then roll it out thin, rub a little [Page] sweet oil over your mould, lay on the paste, and cut it into flowers, birds, &c. or any shape you fancy.

This is a thing that few attempt, without being taught by some person who is a complete master of it; for it is not easily learned without time and experience.

Gum Paste.

Steep one ounce of gum-dragon, in a tea-cupful of cold water all night; the next morning have a pound of double refined sugar pounded and sifted through a silk sieve, rub the gum through a hair sieve with a spoon, then mix the gum and sugar together with a strong hand, and by working it will become as white as snow, then take a little fine flour and make it into a stiff paste, roll it out, and cut it into what form you please, to put over several fruits, &c. or work it into moulds, first rubbing them with a feather dipped in sweet oil, turn it out, and put it on Savoy cakes, or any thing that you want to ornament with it, and dry it in a cool oven, or before a fire.

Venison Pasty.

Take a neck and breast or shoulder and breast, cut off the skin, bone it, wash it well out, and cut it in large pieces, notch the edges, and save the fattest piece to lay on the top; rub two pounds of butter into half a peck of flour, mix it into a paste with cold water moderately stiff, lay a thin sheet over the edge and sides of a deep pasty-dish, but none at the bottom, sprinkle some pepper and salt in, and lay in the venison as snug as you can, with the fat piece at the top, well seasoned with pepper and salt, and put in a gill of water; roll a piece of paste out about half and inch thick, wet the edge of the dish, lay it on, and make a round hole at the top; then take the other paste, roll it out, and put half a pound of butter in lumps upon it, sprinkle some flour on it, double it, and roll it out two or three times; then with your brush wet [Page] the other paste and lay it on, work a round place at the top, and ornament it with leaves cut in paste, with a rose at the top, with strings of paste twisted, or any device you are capable of making, put a sheet of paper over it, and bake it four hours in a well-heated oven; when it comes out cut a hole in the top, pour in a pint of venison gravy, and shake it about, as is directed in the chapter for sauces.

This is a much better way than stewing it first, or baking it in two crusts, for it will be tenderer and better flavoured.

If your venison is not fat enough, take the fat of a loin of mutton, and steep it in a little rape vinegar and red wine all night, put your venison in first, and lay the mutton at the top; or you may steep it in red wine only.

Beef-Steak Pie.

Put a little rubbed crust on the edge of the dish, cut your steaks thin, beat them with a rolling-pin, season them with pepper and salt, lay them in the dish till it is full, and then put in a gill of water; roll same puff-paste out about an inch thick and put over them, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, ornament the top with leaves cut in paste, and bake it two hours in a well-heated oven; when it is taken out, if you find there is not gravy enough, pour in a little good gravy, and give it a shake about. You may make it with a raised paste ornamented.

Mutton Pie.

Take a loin of mutton, cut off the skin and inside fat, cut it into thin chops, and season them with pepper and salt; lay a thin sheet of paste on the edge of the dish, and put in the chops, with half a pint of water; roll out a piece of puff-paste about three quarters of an inch thick, put it over them, close it, ornament the top with leaves, or any way you fancy, and bake it in a moderate oven two hours.

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Ox-Cheek Pie.

Take an ox-cheek, wash it well, put it in a deep earthen pan, cover it with water, and put it in the oven all night; take it out in the morning, and cut all the meat and kernels from the head, in the same manner as for a hash; take a deep dish, put a layer of paste round the edge and sides, lay in the meat, with the palate boiled tender, skinned, and cut in pieces; wash an ounce of truffles and morels well, and throw over the meat, with the yolks of six hard eggs, two dozen force-meat balls boiled, some fresh or pickled mushrooms, two artichoke bottoms cut in four, and asparagus tops boiled, if they are in season; season it with pepper and salt to your palate, and about half fill the dish with the gravy it was baked in; roll out a piece of puff-paste about an inch thick and put over it, close it, and ornament it with leaves, &c. at the top, bake it till the crust is done, and send it up hot.

Cheshire Pork Pie.

Take a loin of pork, skin it, cut it into thin chops▪ and season them with grated nutmegs, pepper and salt; put a thin paste round the edge of the dish, lay a layer of pork, then a layer of pippins pared, cored, and cut in quarters, with a little sugar strewed over them, then a layer of pork, then of pippins and sugar, and a layer of pork at the top, put some batter on the pork, fill the dish half full of white wine, put a good puff-paste over it, ornament it as you fancy, and bake it well.

Devonshire Squab Pie.

Cut the skin and inside fat off a loin of mutton, and cut it into thin chops; pare and core some good baking apples, and cut them in slices; peel and slice some large onions; lay a thin paste over the bottom of the dish, put in a layer of mutton, pepper and salt it, then a layer of apples and onions, another layer [Page] of mutton seasoned, a layer of apples and onions, and so on till the dish is full; pour in a pint of water, put a puff-paste pretty thick over it, close it, and ornament it at the top; it will take two hours and a half baking in a well heated oven.

Shropshire Pie.

Lay a sheet of paste round the edge and sides of a deep dish, cut two rabbits in pieces, with two pounds of fat pork cut into small pieces, season both with pepper and salt to your liking, and lay them intermixed in the dish; parboil the livers of the rabbits, and beat them in a mortar with as much fat bacon, a little parsley and sweet herbs chopped fine, and half a dozen oysters, seasoned with pepper and salt, beat them all well, mix them up with the yolk of an egg, make it into round balls, and lay them over the meat, with a few truffles and morels, and artichoke bottoms cut in dice, and cocks-combs if you have any, grate a small nutmeg over all, pour in half a pint of red wine and half a pint of water; put a good thick puff-paste over it, close it, ornament the top, and bake it two hours in a well heated oven.

Ham and Chicken Pie.

Boil a small ham about three parts enough to take off the rind, and when it is cold cut it into slices, about half an inch thick; lay a thin sheet of paste at the bottom of a deep dish, then put in a layer of ham, and sprinkle a little pepper over it; draw, truss and singe one or two chickens, according to the size of the pie you intend to make, wash it well, season the inside with beaten mace, pepper and salt, rub a little salt on the outside, put the chicken on the ham, with six yolks of hard eggs round it, some truffles and morels well washed, a few fresh mushrooms first stewed a little, an artichoke bottom cut in pieces, and a few asparagus tops boiled, if you have any, lay the ham over them, sprinkle a little pepper over the ham, and put in a little good gravy; lay on a good thick [Page] puff-paste, close it, ornamental at the top as you fancy, and bake it well; when it is taken out put in a pint of white cullis as hot as you can, give it a shake round, and send it to table hot.

All the above pies may be made with a raised crust, if you choose to take the trouble to raise them, or like it best.

Sweet Veal or Lamb Pie.

Take any part of veal or lamb except the breast, and cut it into little pieces free from any bone, season it with beaten mace, cloves, nutmeg, pepper and salt; lay a thin sheet of puff-paste all over the bottom and edge of the dish, then put in your meat, strew on it some raisins stoned, currants clean washed and picked, and sugar, put on some force-meat balls made sweet, instead of seasoning in them, and in the summer some artichoke bottoms boiled and cut in pieces, in the winter scalded grapes, two or three Spanish potatoes boiled and cut in pieces, if you have them, some candied citron, orange, and lemon-peel cut in shreds, grate half a nutmeg over it, and put some butter at the top; lay a moderate thick puff-paste over it, close it, ornament the top with leaves, &c. and bake it two hours in a well-heated oven, but not too hot. Against it is taken out of the oven have the following caudle ready; take a pint of mountain wine, beat the yolks of three eggs in it, and stir it well together over the fire till it is thick; then take it off, sweeten it with powder sugar, and squeeze in the juice of a lemon, put it in your pie as hot as you can, close it again, and send it to table hot; or you may put the wine in a sauce-pan, with sugar enough to sweeten it, and make it boil; beat up the yolks of three eggs with a little of the wine, and pour them backward and forward two or three times out of one sauce-pan into another, then make it hot, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and pour it into the pie.

Veal Pie.

Cut some chops off a loin of veal, but not too [Page] fat, cut the lean off the chump-end in thin slices, season them with beaten mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt; lay a thin paste round the edge of your dish, put in the meat, with some hard yolks of eggs, force-meat balls, artichoke bottoms, truffles and morels, over the meat, or leave them out, as you think proper put some butter at the top, and a little water in it; lay a good puff paste over it, close it, ornament the top, and bake it well; when it is taken out put in some good gravy, and send it to table hot.

Lamb Pie.

Take a loin of lamb, cut off the skin and some of the kidney-fat, cut it into thin chops, and season them with pepper and salt; lay a thin sheet of paste round the edge of the dish, put in the meat, with half a pint of water; put puff-paste over it, close it, ornament the top, bake it well, and send it to table hot.

Veal or Lamb Pie raised.

Make a hot paste, as directed, with butter, raise it as high as you can, either round or long; cut some veal of lamb from the bones in small thin slices, put in a layer, and season it with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg; have some veal sweetbreads blanched and cut in small pieces, some lambs stones skinned, truffles and morels well washed, some fresh mushrooms stewed a little, two artichoke bottoms cut in small pieces, force meat balls boiled, a few asparagus tops boiled, if in season, put in a layer of them, and then meat, till your dish is full, season it as you put it in, then put on the lid, close it, rub it all over with the yolk of an egg, ornament it all round, and on the top, with leaves, fruit, &c. cut out of paste, put a sheet of paper over it, and bake it as directed in the beginning of this chapter; when it is done, have a pint of white cullis, take off the lid, skim off the fat, put the cullis in, put on the lid again, and send it to table hot. It eats very well cold.

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Veal Olive Pie.

Cut some thin slices off a filler of veal, the same as for veal olives, as many as you think will fill your pie, hack them with the back of a knife, with a brush rub them over with the yolks of eggs, and sprinkle them with beaten cloves, mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, a handful of parsley and sweet herbs, a little spinach well washed, a little beef-suet, two or three hard eggs, and a few oysters, all chopped fine and mixed together; lay a thin paste round the edge of the dish, roll them up, and put them in the dish close together, put in a few yolks of hard eggs, some force-meat balls, truffles and morels well washed, a few fresh mushrooms, sprinkle them over with the mixture that is left, put some butter at the top, and a little water in; put a good puff-paste over, close it, ornament the top, and bake it well; when it is taken out of the oven put in some good gravy, and send it up hot.

You may make a raised pie the same way as veal or lamb pies, by putting in the ingredients the same way.

Calf's Foot Pie.

Put as many calves feet on the fire in a sauce-pan as you think you shall have occasion for, and water sufficient to cover them, with two or three blades of mace, and boil them till they are tender; then take out the feet, and strain off the liquor; lay a thin sheet of puff-paste at the bottom and round the edge of a deep dish, then pick the flesh off the bones and lay half of it in, strew half a pound of currants clean washed and picked, and half a pound of raisins stoned over it, lay on the rest of the meat, skim the liquor and sweeten as much of it as will nearly fill the pie, with half a pint of white wine, and pour it into the dish; put on a lid of good puff-paste, ornament the top, and bake it one hour and a half.

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Calf's Head Pie.

Take a sine calf's head, and lay it in water to soak out the blood, wash it clean, and boil it till it is tender; then take it up, and let it stand till it is cold; cut the meat from the bones as whole as you can, take out the eyes, the palate, and tongue, skin them, cut them in slices, and cut the eyes in two; lay a paste round the edge of the dish, put the meat in, with the eyes round it, and the tongue and palate to fill up the hollow places; season it with pepper and salt, pour in a little of the liquor it was boiled in, put a thin puff-paste over it, and bake it one hour and a half. In the mean time, have a pint of good brown cullis, with a few truffles and morels, and mushrooms stewed in it; boil the brains, cut them into square pieces, dip them in batter, fry them in beef-dripping of a nice brown, and put them on a sieve to drain; boil six eggs hard, and take out the yolks; when the pie is done take off the lid, pour the cullis in, put the brains and the yolks of eggs over it, and send it to table hot without the lid. You may put in as many different things as you please, but take care to cut the lid within the rim of the dish.

Swan Pie.

Take a swan, skin, draw, and bone it as whole as you can, and put it into a deep earthen pan; put half a pint of white wine into a stew-pan, with the same quantity of vinegar, an onion, six bay leaves, a few cloves, mace, and all-spice, a clove or two of garlick, give it a boil, pour it over the swan, and let it lay all night; bone a goose and a fowl, and make the following force-meat: take the flesh of a fowl, half a pound of lean veal, the same quantity of fat bacon, and a pound of beef-suet, chop them, and beat them well in a mortar; add a handful of parsley, some sweet herbs, a little lemon-peel, and six shallots chopped very fine, and the crumb of a penny loaf, beat all well together, season it with beaten mace, nutmeg, pepper, a little Cayan, and salt, and mix [Page] it up with the yolks of four eggs; lay the swan on the dresser, cut it down the back, put a layer of force-meat in the inside, cut the goose down the back, and lay it with the breast downwards in the inside of the swan, and lay a layer of force meat in the inside of the goose, fill the inside of the fowl with force-meat, and put it into the goose, close them together as well as you can; scald the giblets of the swan, cut them in pieces, and boil them for two hours in water sufficient to stew them, with a few cloves and mace and a bundle of sweet herbs; make a peck of flour with four pounds of butter into a paste, as directed in the beginning of this chapter, cut off a piece for the lid and ornaments, raise it as high as you can, and long enough to hold the swan, season the inside with beaten mace, pepper and salt, then put in the swan, with the giblets all round it, season it with mace, pepper and salt, put half a pound of butter over it, then put on the lid, rub it all over with the yolk of an egg, and ornament the sides as well as you can with leaves, &c. put it into a well-heated oven, and bake it seven hours. In the mean time take the bones of the swan, [...]ose, and fowl, and boil them up with the liquor the giblets were stewed in till it is rich and good, season it with pepper and salt, strain it off, skim it clean, and one hour before your pie is done put in the liquor, but take care you do not fill it too full; when it is taken out of the oven, take off the lid, skim off the fat, and send it to table hot. If you want to have it cold let it stand; then put savory jelly all over the top, and model a swan in butter and put on; if you cannot model one, buy one that is made with wax and put on. It will be better to make it over night, as there is a great deal of work in it, and the paste will stand the better.

Yorkshire Christmas Pie.

Take a fine large turkey, a goose, a large fowl, a partridge, and a pigeon, and bone them all nicely; beat half an ounce of mace, half an ounce of nutmegs, [Page] a quarter of an ounce of cloves, half an ounce of white pepper ground, and two large spoonsful of salt, all mixed together; open all the fowls down the back, lay the turkey on the dresser, season it in the inside, lay the goose breast downwards in the turkey, then season the goose, put in the fowl the same way, then the partridge, then the pigeon, close them together, to make them look like a whole turkey, as well as you can; case and bone a hare, and cut it in pieces, with six woodcocks, moor game, or small wild fowl all boned; make a bushel of flour with ten pounds of butter into a paste, as directed, make the bottom and sides very thick, and raise it as high as you can, put in some seasoning, then lay in the turkey, &c. breast uppermost, lay the hare on one side, and woodcocks, moor game, or wild fowl, on the other side, sprinkle seasoning over all, put four pounds of butter on the top, lay on a thick lid, ornament the sides and top, but first rub it over with the yolk of an egg, put paper over it, and bake it in a hot oven for six hours; let it stand till it is cold before you cut it. It will keep a good while.

Goose Pie.

Boil a small neats tongue till it is tender, peel it, and cut off the root and tip-end; bone a large goose and a large fowl; mix half an ounce of beaten mace with a spoonful of pepper and one of salt, season the inside of the fowl and goose, put the fowl in the goose, and the tongue in the fowl; make the hot paste with half a peck of flour, as directed in the beginning of this chapter, raise it high, put in the goose breast uppermost, sprinkle some seasoning on it, lay on half a pound of butter, put on the lid, rub it all over with the yolk of an egg, ornament the sides and top, and bake it three hours; if it is to be eat hot, put the bones of the goose and fowl into a sauce-pan, with a quart of water, a bundle of sweet herbs, two blades of mace, a little pepper and salt, and stew it till it is above half wasted; then strain it off, and one hour [Page] before the pie is done take it out, and put the liquor in, and when it is done send it to table hot. If it is to be eat cold, put no liquor in; when it is cold, cut it in slices across if you please, put it in a dish and garnish it with parsley for a side dish for supper.

Turkey Pie with green Truffles.

Take a turkey and bone it; make a force-meat as follows: take the flesh of a small fowl, a little lean veal, a quarter of a pound of fat bacon, and half a pound of beef suet chopped all fine, a little parsley, sweet herbs, lemon-peel, and six shallots shred fine, season it with beaten mace, pepper and salt, mix it all well up with the yolks of two eggs and put in the inside of the turkey; raise a shell big enough to hold it, then put in the turkey; pare the rind off a dozen large truffles, cut them in thin slices, and lay them round and over the turkey, sprinkle some seasoning on it, put a little butter on it, put on the lid, rub it all over with the yolk of an egg, ornament it on the side and top, and bake it three hours; have a pint of good white cullis ready, and when it is done take off the lid, put in the cullis, give it a shake round, put on the lid, and send it to table hot; or it eats very fine cold. If you have no green truffles, you may put in hard yolks of eggs, force-meat balls, truffles and morels, mushrooms, asparagus tops, &c.

Chicken Pie.

Lay a thin paste round the edge of your dish, take two chickens, draw and singe them, cut them in pieces, put one at the bottom of the dish, and season it with pepper and salt; have two veal sweet breads boiled and cut in slices, a few force-meat balls, truffles and morels, two artichoke bottoms cut in pieces, lay all these over the chicken, season them with pepper and salt, then lay the other chicken over them, season it the same, put a little butter on the top, and half a pint of water in; put a good puff-paste half an inch thick over it, close it, ornament the top, and [Page] bake it two hours; when it is taken out put a little good gravy in, and send it to table hot. You may raise a crust, and put the ingredients in the same way, bake it the same time, and put in a little gravy.

Duck Pie.

Lay a thin paste round the rim of your dish; take two ducks and scald them clean, cut off the feet, pinions, necks, and heads, with the gizzards, livers, and hearts, all scalded and cleaned, and cut in pieces, pick all the fat out of the inside, and season them with pepper and salt inside and out, lay them in your dish, with the giblets all round, sprinkle some pepper and salt over them, put a little butter at the top, and put in half a pint of water; put a good puff-paste on, close it, ornament the top, and bake it two hours; when it is taken out of the oven, pour in a little good gravy, and send it to table hot.

Pigeon Pie.

Lay a thin sheet of paste round the rim and sides of a deep dish, sprinkle a little pepper and salt on the bottom, and put in a thin beef-steak; pick, draw, and singe six pigeons, wash them clean, cut off the feet, and stick the legs into the sides, season the insides with pepper and salt, put a little butter in the inside of every one, put them in the dish breast upwards, and the neck-ends next the rim of the dish, put the gizzards between them, sprinkle some pepper and salt over them, and put in a gill of water; lay a very thin sheet of paste before it is p [...]st over them, and with a brush wet the paste all over, then put a sheet of puff-paste half an inch thick over that, close it, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, ornament the top, stick the feet in, and bake it nicely; when it is taken out put in some good gravy, and send it to table hot. You may put in the yolks of six hard eggs, or leave out the beef-steak, if you think proper.

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Pigeon Pie raised.

Make a raised paste with a quarter of a peck of flour and one pound of butter, as directed in the beginning of this chapter, and raise it up high; pick, draw, and singe six pigeons, wash them clean, cut off the feet and pinions, season the insides with pepper and salt, and lay them in, with the yolks of six hard eggs, the pinions and gizzards cut in two over them, season them with pepper and salt, and put a quarter of a pound of butter on the top, put on the lid, rub it all over with the yolk of an egg, ornament the sides and top with leaves, &c. and bake it two hours; when it is taken out of the oven take off the lid, fill it full of good gravy, put the lid on again, and send it to table hot.

Giblet Pie.

Take two pair of young goose giblets, scalded and washed clean, and cut them in pieces the same as for stewing or soup; lay a thin paste round the rim of your dish, put in your giblets, season them with pepper and salt, put a little butter on them, and put in a gill of water; put a puff-paste half an inch thick over them, close it, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, ornament the top, and bake it two hours in a good oven; when it is taken out put some good gravy in, and send it up hot.

When your giblets begin to get hard put them in a sauce-pan, cover them with water, stew them till they are tender, and let them stand till they are cold before you put them in the pie. Some put a thin beef-steak at the bottom, and some thin lamb-chops, but in that case you may do as you think proper.

Rabbit Pie.

Take two young rabbits and cut them in pieces; lay a thin sheet of paste round the rim of your dish, put some thin slices of veal at the bottom, season them with pepper and salt, then put in the rabbits, season them with pepper and salt, put in some truffles and [Page] morels well washed, artichoke bottoms cut in pieces, chop a handful of parsley and strew over, and put in a gill of water; put a good puff-paste half an inch thick over them, close it, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, ornament the top with leaves cut in paste, and bake it two hours; when it is taken out of the oven put in some veal gravy, and send it to table hot.

Hare Pie.

Make a hot paste with half a peck of flour and butter, as directed in the beginning of this chapter, and raise it up high; make a good veal force-meat, bruise in the liver of the hare, and put in a glass of red wine, season it pretty high, and put it all round the inside of the pie; case and bone a large hare, cut it in pieces, season it with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, put it in as snug as you can, lay a little butter on the top, put on the lid, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, ornament the sides and top, and bake it three hours; put the bones of the hare into a stew-pan, with a pint and a half of gravy, half a pint of red wine, some pepper and salt, and stew it for one hour; then strain it off, and one hour before the pie is done, take it out and put in the gravy; then put it in again, and when it is done send it to table hot.

Patty Gou de Vou.

Mix a pound of butter with a quarter of a peck of flour, make half of it into a stiff paste with cold water, work it well with your hands, and roll it out; take a tin or copper patty-pan, sprinkle some flour on it, and lay the paste on; mix the one half with cold water, but not so stiff, and puff it; cut some thin slices off a leg of veal and lay over the bottom paste, season them with pepper and salt, cut a chicken into joints and lay on the veal, lay a veal sweetbread cut in slices, two artichoke bottoms cut in pieces, an oxpalate boiled tender and cut in pieces, a dozen small force-meat balls, the same of egg-balls, a few truffles and morels washed well with warm water, a few [Page] fresh mushrooms stewed a little, and some asparagus heads boiled, over the chicken, season it with pepper and salt, grate on half a nutmeg, chop two shallots fine and put over it, then lay thin slices of veal over all; roll the puff-paste out and lay on it, close it, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, ornament the top, and bake it in a moderate oven two hours; have a pint of white cullis ready against it is taken out of the oven, then slip it out of the patty-pan into the dish, take off the lid, raise up the veal, and pour the cullis in; put the lid on again, and send it up hot. Take care to leave half an inch round the rim to close in the upper crust.

Gou de Vou Pie.

Must be raised, and the same ingredients put in, in the same manner as the above, only it will take more baking; and put cullis in the same way.

Beef-Steak Patty.

Sprinkle some flour on a tin or copper patty-pan, make a thin sheet of tart-paste, as directed in the first receipt for tart-pastes, and put on it; take rump steaks cut very thin and in small pieces, season them with pepper and salt, and fill your party; lay a good puff-paste moderately thick over it, close it, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, ornament at the top, and bake it one hour and a half in a moderate oven; then take it out, slip it into the dish, fill it with good brown gravy, and send it to table hot.

Sweetbread Patty.

Sprinkle a little flour on a patty-pan, lay on a thin sheet of tart-paste as above for beef-steak patty, take some veal force-meat, and lay a thin sheet over the paste, but leave about half an inch from the edge of your paste to close on the top lid; have two veal sweetbreads boiled, cut them in thin slices, and put on the force-meat, some lambs stones skinned and cut [Page] in two, a few truffles and morels, some fresh mushrooms cut small, one artichoke bottom cut in small pieces, and a few asparagus tops boiled tender, lay them over the sweetbreads, with a few force-meat and egg-balls, season them with pepper and salt, and grate on a little nutmeg; put a good puff-paste at the top, close it, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, ornament the top, and bake it one hour in a moderate oven; then take it out, slip it into a dish, take off the top, fill it with white cullis or beshemel, put on the cover and send it up hot.

Peregord Pie.

Take three brace of partridges, pick, draw, and sing them, truss them like a fowl to boil, dip the breasts into hot water, and then lard them with bacon; beat a pound of fat bacon in a mortar, scald the livers, and bruise them, mix them with the bacon, and put half into the inside of the partridges; chop some parsley, sweet herbs, and lemon-peel fine, and a few basil leaves, mix them with some beaten mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt; raise half a peck of flour made into a paste, as directed in the beginning of this chapter, put the other half of the bacon and livers over the bottom, sprinkle half the herbs over it, then lay in the partridges, and sprinkle the rest of the herbs over them; pare half a dozen fresh truffles, and cut them in thin slices, half a pint of fresh mushrooms chopped fine, six shallots chopped, and put over them; put little bits of butter here and there between them, and a little fat bacon cut fine, and put a layer of fat bacon over all; put on the lid, rub the pie over with the yolk of an egg, ornament the sides and the top, and bake it three hours; take some good gravy that will jelly, boil six bay leaves in it for a few minutes, then take out the leaves; when the pie is taken out of the oven take off the lid and the bacon, put in the gravy, and as the fat rises skim it off, (for by putting in the gravy you can skim the fat off better than otherwise) put on the lid, and [Page] send it to table hot. If you want it cold, let it stand with the lid on; then take off the lid, and put some savory jelly over the top, or send it with the lid on only.

Little Mutton Pies.

Raise half a dozen small pies as high as you can, cut the meat off a loin of mutton from the bones, and almost all the fat, cut it in little pieces, season it with pepper and salt, fill your pies, put on the lids, and bake them; make a gravy from the bones; when they are taken out of the oven fill them with▪ gravy, then put them in a dish, and send them up hot. Pork pies are made in the same manner. You may make large ones the same way.

Turbot Pie.

Gut, gill, and wash a middle-sized turbot, half boil it, and take the flesh from the bones as whole as you can; put a thin paste round the edge of the dish, season the turbot with beaten cloves, mace, pepper, and salt, some parsley and sweet herbs shred fine, lay it in the dish, with six yolks of hard eggs, put a pound of butter at the top, and a little of the liquor it was boiled in; put a good puff-paste over it, close it, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, ornament the top, and bake it one hour and a half; when it is done send it up hot to table. It eats very well cold.

Salmon Pie.

Take four pounds of the middle part of a salmon, scale it, cut the bone out, cut it in thin slices, season them with beaten cloves, mace, pepper, and salt; lay a thin paste all over the dish, put some butter over the paste, then a layer of salmon, then a little butter and so on, till it is full, and put butter at the top; boil a fine hen lobster, pick out the meat, chop it fine with the spawn, and sprinkle over it; then put on a good puff-paste, close it, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, ornament the top, and bake it two hours in a well-heated oven; send it to table hot or cold.

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Salt Fish Pie.

Take half of a fine salt fish, trim it, and lay it in water all night; the next morning wash it well, put it on the fire in a kettle of water, and boil it till it is tender; then take it out and put it into a dish, take the skin off, pick the meat from the bones, and mince it small, take the crumb of a penny French roll, cut it in slices, and boil it up with a quart of new milk; break the bread very fine with the back of a spoon, put in your minced salt fish, a pound of melted butter, a handful of parsley shred fine, half a nutmeg grated, a little beaten pepper, and a large spoonful of mustard, and mix them altogether; lay a thin puff-paste all over the dish, put in the ingredients, cover it with a thin puff-paste, bake it one hour and send it to table hot.

Sole Pie.

Lay a thin paste all over the bottom of your dish; take two pounds of eels, skin, gut, and wash them clean, and boil them till they are tender, pick all the meat clean from the bones, and mince it fine, mix it with a few crumbs of bread, some parsley and lemon-peel shred fine, an anchovy boned and chopped small, some grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, a quarter of a pound of butter, and lay it over the paste; cut the flesh off a pair of large soles, or three pair of small ones, clean from the bones and fins, (but take care to scale and skin them) season it with nutmeg, pepper, and salt, lay it on the force-meat, and put on a little butter; put the bones of the eels and the soles into the liquor the eels was boiled in, with a little mace and salt, boil it till it is reduced to half a pint, and then strain it off; let it stand till it is cold, and then put it in your pie; put a puff-paste on it, close it, ornament the top, bake it two hours in a moderate oven, and send it to table hot.

Carp Pie.

Take a brace of carp, scale, gut, and wash them [Page] clean; clean two eels, and boil them till they are tender, pick off all the meat, and mince it fine, with the roe of the carp, a handful of bread crumbs, a little parsley, sweet herbs, and lemon-peel shred fine, an anchovy boned and chopped fine, half a pint of oysters blanched, and the yolks of three hard eggs chopped fine, season it with pepper salt, and grated nutmeg, mix it up with half a pound of butter, and fill the belly of the carp with it; lay a thin paste over the bottom of the dish, and put in the carp; (if you have any force-meat left, make it into balls and put round the carp) put the bones of the eels into the liquor they were boiled in, with a few cloves and mace, whole pepper, an onion, a bundle of sweet herbs, and an anchovy, boil it till it is reduced to half a pint, strain it off, and put it in the sauce-pan again, with a gill of white wine, a piece of butter as big as a hen's egg, mixed with a little flour; boil it up, let is stand till it is cold, and then put it in the pie; put a good puff-paste half an inch thick over it, and bake it two hours; when it is taken out of the oven, if there is not liquor enough fill it up with some fish gravy, and send it hot to table.

Tench and Eel Pie.

Scale, gut, and wash a brace of tench, and cut off the sins; skin, gut, and wash two fine eels, and cut them in pieces two inches long, season both tench and eels with beaten cloves, mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, a little parsley and lemon-peel shred fine; lay a thin paste round the edge of the dish, put in the tench, and eels round them, strew the rest of the seasoning that is left over them, put on half a pound of butter, and half a pint of white wine in it; put a good puff-paste over it, close it, bake it two hours in a moderate oven, and send it up hot.

Eel Pie.

Skin and gut as many eels as you want, wash them clean, and cut them in pieces about two inches long, [Page] season them with beaten mace, pepper and salt; lay a thin paste round the edge of your dish, put on a little butter, and half fill the dish with water; put on a sheet of good puff-paste, close it, and bake it. You may raise a crust, and put in the eels the same way, only leave out the water, and when it is baked put in a little fish gravy.

Flounder Pie.

Take six or eight large flounders, gut and wash them, dry them with a cloth, and cut all the meat from the bones and fins; lay a thin paste over the bottom of the dish, put some butter over it, lay on the fish, and season it with beaten mace, pepper and salt; put the bones in a pint of water, with a little horse-radish, parsley, lemon-peel, a crust of bread, a little salt, and a gill of white wine, boil it till it is reduced to half a pint, strain it, and when it is cold put it into the pie; put a puff-paste over it, bake it one hour and a half, and send it to table hot.

Herring Pie.

Take six large herrings, scale, gut, and wash them clean, cut off the heads, fins, and tails; lay a thin crust over the bottom of the dish, put a little butter on it, lay in your herrings, season them with beaten mace, pepper and salt; pare and core six large apples, cut them in slices, and lay over the herrings; peel six large onions, cut them in slices and put over, put a little butter at the top, and put in a little water; lay a good puff-paste over, close it, and bake it one hour and a half.

Lobster Pie.

Take three large lobsters and boil them, take the meat out of the tails whole, cut each of them in four pieces longways, take out the spawn and the meat of the claws, beat it well in a mortar, with the crumb of a roll rubbed through a fine cullender, season it with mace, pepper and salt, two spoonsful of vinegar, [Page] and a little anchovy liquor, me [...] [...] pound of fresh butter and put in, and mix it [...] with the yolks of two eggs; lay a thin sheet of [...] over the bottom of the dish, lay half of the [...] meat on, then lay on the tails, sprinkle a little pepper and salt on, and put on the remainder of the force-meat, put on a puff-paste, close it, and bake it one hour in a moderate oven.

Muscle Pie.

Take half a peck of muscles, wash them well in a pail of water, with a birch-broom, put them into a pail of spring water and salt for one hour, then wash them out, put them into a sauce-pan, cover them close, and stew them till they are all open; then strain the liquor from them, take them out of the shells, pick out the beards, and wash them well; put them into a stew-pan, with as much of the liquor as will cover them, a little beaten mace, a piece of butter mixed with flour, a handful of crumbs of bread, and a glass of white wine; stew them a few minutes, and let them stand till they are cold; lay a thin sheet of paste over the bottom of the dish, put in the muscles, put on a thin puff-paste, close it, and bake it half an hour. You may make an oyster or cockle pie the same way.

Fish Pasties the Italian Way.

Take a quarter of a peck of flour, and make it into paste with sweet oil, work it well with your hands, and roll it out; take a large slice of salmon, scale it, cut it from the bone, and dip it in sweet oil; chop an onion, a clove of garlick, and some parsley fine, mix them with a little beaten mace, pepper and salt, stew it over the salmon, lay it in the paste, and make it up in the shape of a slice of salmon; butter a sheet of writing paper and put on it, and bake it one hour. It eats best cold, and will keep for a month. Any kind of fish may be treated in the same manner.

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Mince-meat.

Take fourteen pounds of good beef suet, pick it clean from the skins, and chop it very fine, four pounds of the best tender double tripe, take out the fat, wipe it dry with a cloth, and chop it fine; pare and core as many Holland pippins or pearmain apples as will weigh four pounds, and chop them fine, then chop these three articles well together; have, fourteen pounds of currants well washed and picked, and dry them well in a cloth, four pounds of jar raisins stoned and chopped fine, three pounds and a half of moist sugar well bruised with a rolling-pin, half an ounce of ginger, the same of mace, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, the same of cinnamon and nutmeg, dry them well, pound them fine, and sift them through a fine sieve, the peeling of four lemons chopped very fine, half a pound of candied citron, the same quantity of candied orange and lemon-peel cut in thin slips, then with your hands mix all the ingredients together for a quarter of an hour, then put in a pint of French brandy, the same of mountain wine, and half a pint of good crab verjuice, mix it all well; have a dry cold earthen-pan, well glazed in the inside, put the mince-meat down close, put a sheet of paper over it, tie another over the pan, put it in a cool, dry place, and it will keep six months. It will keep good to the East or West Indies, if you put it down very close into twoquart gallipots, and add a little more brandy, render some mutton-suet and put over, tie it over with a bladder, and leather over that; when you want to use it stir it well up from the bottom, as all the goodness settles there; and when you have kept it some time put a little more brandy and verjuice to it.

By the same rules you may make more or less, as you please.

Make a good puff-paste, roll the bottoms out thin, flour your patty-pans well, lay on the paste, and and according to their size put in the mince-meat; put a puff-paste rolled thin over them, close it as [Page] light as you can, and never use any water to wet the paste when you close it. If you make it in a dish, lay a thin puff-paste over the bottom, put in the mince-meat, put on the lid, and bake it in rather a slack oven.

Lent Mince Pie.

Boil six eggs hard, chop them fine, pare and core twelve large pippins, and chop them fine, a pound of raisins of the sun stoned and chopped fine, a pound of currants washed and picked clean and rubbed well in a cloth, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar bruised, an ounce each of candied citron, lemon, and orange-peel cut fine, a quarter of an ounce of cloves and mace beat fine, a little grated ginger and nutmeg, mix all well together with a gill of brandy and one of sack; lay a thin sheet of puff-paste at the bottom of the dish, put in the mince-meat, squeeze in the juice of a Seville orange, put a thin puff-paste over, and bake it one hour. You may make it into small pies in patty-pans, to turn out the same way as the other.

Florendine of Veal.

Take two veal kidnies, fat and all, and mince them very fine, chop a little parsley, sweet herbs, and lemon-peel very fine, four or five yolks of hard eggs chopped fine, seasoned with beaten cloves, mace, nutmeg, and salt, a handful of bread-crumbs, two pippins pared and chopped fine, one ounce of candied lemon-peel cut small, a little sack and orange-flower water, beat up four eggs well, and mix the ingredients well together; lay a puff-paste round the edge of the dish, and a very thin sheet at the bottom; cover it with another sheet of puff-paste, ornament the top as you fancy, bake it in a slack oven, sprinkle powder sugar at the top, and send it to table hot.

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Cheese Curd Florendine.

Take a pound of almonds, put them in boiling water, take off the skins, and beat them in a mortar, with a little rose water to keep them from oiling; break two pounds of cheese curd well with your hands, put it to the almonds, and beat them well together, wash and pick half a pound of currants clean and put in; stew a little spinach, squeeze it dry between two plates, chop it fine, and sweeten it to your palate, grate in half a nutmeg; and mix it well together; lay a thin puff-paste at the bottom of the dish, and a thick one round the rim, and put in the ingredients; roll out some puff-paste and cut it out in slips as thick as a goose's quill, put it across and across, to make it look like checquer, sprinkle a little powder sugar over it, and bake it half an hour.

Florendine of Apples and Oranges.

Take six fine Seville oranges, cut them in two, squeeze out the juice, strain it through a sieve, and save it covered over, take out the pulp, and lay them in water twenty-four hours, shift them three or four times, and boil them in three or four different waters till they are tender; then drain them from the water, put the juice, with two pounds of lump sugar, into a stew-pan, put them in, and boil them to a syrup, but take care they do not stick to the pan, then put them away in gallipots for use; when you use them, pare and core twelve pippins, quarter them, put them into a stew-pan, with a little water and sugar, boil them till they are soft, and beat them with a spoon; when they are cold slice two oranges into them; lay a puff-paste round the edge of the dish, put them in, string them at the top as the above, and bake them half an hour.

Tort de Moy.

Lay a thick sheet of puff-paste round the rim of [Page] your dish, then put in a layer of Naples biscuit, then a layer of butter and beef-marrow cut in slices, then a layer of all sorts of candied sweetmeats cut in thin slices, and so on till the dish is full; then boil a quart of cream or milk with a stick of cinnamon, and sweeten it to your palate; when it is cold, beat up four eggs, and mix well with it, and a spoonful of orange-flower water; take out the cinnamon, pour it over the remainder in the dish, and bake it half an hour in a moderate oven, but not too slack.

Artichoke Pie.

Break twelve artichokes from the stalks, wash and boil them, pull off all the leaves and chokes from the bottoms; lay a puff-paste over the bottom of your dish, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter on it, then lay a row of artichokes, mix a quarter of an ounce of beaten mace with a spoonful o [...] pepper and salt, strew half of it over them, then lay the rest on, strew more seasoning on, put a quarter of a pound of butter at the top, boil half an ounce of truffles and morels in a gill of water, pour the water into the pie, cut the truffles and morels very small and sprinkle over it, put in the yolks of twelve hard eggs with a knife, take the pulp off the bottom of the leaves, make it into round balls, and put them in, pour in a gill of white wine, cover your pie with a thin puff-paste, and bake it; when the crust is done the pie is enough.

Potatoe Pie.

Boil three pounds of middle sized potatoes, and peel them; put a thin paste over the bottom of your dish, put some butter on that, cut your potatoes in slices and lay in, chop six hard eggs and strew over them, grate a nutmeg over all, sprinkle on a spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and put in half a pint of white wine; lay on a thin puff-paste, close it, and bake it half an hour.

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Onion Pie.

Pare a pound of potatoes, slice them thin, peel about a pound of large onions, and slice them, pare the same quantity of apples, core and slice them likewise, boil six eggs hard, take off the shells, and cut them in slices; lay a thin sheet of puff-paste over the bottom of the dish, put on a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, mix a quarter of an ounce of beaten mace, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and three of salt, strew some over the butter, then lay in a layer of potatoes, a layer of onions, a layer of apples, and one of eggs, strew some seasoning on, and so on till all the ingredients are in; strew the remainder of the seasoning on the top, put on a quarter of a pound of butter, and pour in half a pint of white wine; put a thin puff-paste over it, and bake it one hour and a half.

Skirret Pie.

Take two or three pounds of skirret-roots, wash them clean, and boil them till they are tender, peel and slice them; lay a thin paste round the rim and sides of your dish, put in the skirrets to half a pint of cream or new milk, beat up one egg well with a little nutmeg, beaten mace, and salt, and pour in as much as the dish will hold; put on a thin puff-paste, and bake it half an hour. You may put in six yolks of hard eggs if you like it.

Savory Egg Pie.

Eoil twelve eggs hard, and chop them fine, a pound of beef-suet or marrow shred fine, the same quantity of currants well washed and picked, season them with a little nutmeg and cinnamon beat fine, mix all together, with two or three spoonsful of cream, a little sack, and a spoonful of rose water; lay a thin paste over the dish, put in the ingredients, put a thin puff-paste over it, and bake it half an hour; when it is done, stir in half a pound of fresh butter, and squeeze in the juice of a lemon.

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Sweet Egg Pie.

Boil twelve eggs hard, take off the shells, and cut them in thin slices; lay a thin puff-crust over the dish, put in your eggs, with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter in little bits amongst them, throw half a pound of currants well washed and picked over the eggs; then beat up four eggs well with half a pint of white wine, grate in half a nutmeg, make it pretty sweet with fine sugar, and pour it over all; put a thin puff-paste over it, close it, and bake it half an hour, or till the crust is done.

Green Coddling Pie.

Take two dozen fine green coddlings, lay some vine or cabbage leaves at the bottom of a stew-pan, put in the coddlings and cover them with spring water, lay leaves over them, put them on the fire, and coddle them till the skins will peel off, but mind they do not break; throw them into cold water, peel off the skins, cut them in quarters, and take out the cores; lay some vine leaves at the bottom of the stew-pan, put in the coddlings, cover them with spring water, then with leaves, and set them at a distance from the fire till they are quite hot; then put them away all night in a cold place, and the next morning they will be as green as grass; take them out of the liquor, lay a thin paste round the edge of the dish, put them in, chop some lemon-peel very fine and sprinkle over them, put half a pound of moist sugar on them, put a little of the liquor in; lay a thin puff-paste over, and bake it in a moderate oven; when it is taken out cut off the lid, cut it in three-corner pieces, and lay it round the pie, with one corner at the outside; boil a pint of cream with a laurel leaf, a little lemon-peel, a bit of cinnamon, and sweeten is with lump sugar to your palate; beat up the yolks of four eggs with a little cream, strain the hot cream to it, and keep it stirring over a slow fire till it is thick, but do not let it boil, as that will curdle it, take it off, and keep [Page] it stirring till it is nearly cold; them put it over the pie, and when the pie is quite cold send it to table.

Apple Pie.

Pare, quarter, and core as many large apples as you will want; lay a thin paste round the edge of the dish, put little sugar at the bottom, and lay in your apples, chop some lemon-peel fine and strew over them, put in some quince marmalade in little bits on, then more sugar, put a little water in the dish, put a puff-paste over, close it, and bake it nicely; when it is taken out cut off the lid, bruise the apples well, stir in a piece of butter, and send it to table hot; or you may send it without the butter. If you chuse it cold, make a cream the same as for green coddling pie, and treat it in the same manner.

Gooseberry Pie.

Lay a thin paste round the ream of your dish, put a little sugar at the bottom, pick your gooseberries, and if it is rainy weather, or they are dusty, wash them, and lay them in, put sugar over them, put a little water in the dish, put a nice puff paste over them, and bake them in a moderate oven; let the pie be cold before you send it to table; or if you like it, you may cream it the same as a green coddling pie.

Currant and Rasberry Pie.

Lay a thin paste round the rim of your dish, put a little sugar at the bottom, pick your rasberries, and half fill the dish, pick the currants and lay over the rasberries, and sugar over them, put a spoonful of water in the dish, put a thin puff paste lid over, close it, and bake it nicely; when the pie is cold send it to table. Currant and cherry pie is made the same way.

Morella Cherry Pie.

Lay a thin paste round the rim of your dish, put a [Page] little sugar at the bottom, pick the stalks off the cherries, lay them in, with sugar over them, put a little water in the dish, put on a thin puff-paste lid, and bake it; when it is cold send it to table.

All sorts of plumbs, damsons, and cranberry pies, are made the same way. You may ice all these fruit pies in the following manner: beat up the white of an egg to a froth, then with a paste brush rub it over, the crown of the pie, and sift fine powder sugar over it, and just before you put it into the oven sprinkle a little water over it, or it will catch and burn. You may leave the iceing alone according as the company likes it.

PETTIT PATTIES.

Force-meat Patties.

MAKE a very light veal force-meat, take little tin patty pans, about the size of a tea-cup, but not so deep, make a rich puff-paste, roll out the bottoms thin, butter the patty-pan, roll a piece of force-meat round like a ball, put it in, roll some more puff-paste for covers, put them on, rub them over with the yolk of an egg, and bake them of a fine gold colour; put five or seven in a dish out of the tin, and send them up hot; or they will serve for garnish round large made dishes.

Chicken, Turkey, or Veal Patties.

Roll out some puff-paste, butter your patty-pans, and lay it in them; cut some stale crumb of bread in round pieces, lay it in, put a paste over them, rub them over with an egg, and bake them; in the mean time mince the white part of a chicken, fowl, turkey, [Page] or veal, very fine, put it into a stew-pan, with a little veal broth, a little lemon-peel shred fine, grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, a little cream, and a little butter mixed with flour, put it into a stew-pan, put it over the fire, and keep it stirring till it is thick and smooth; slip the patties into the dish, take off the lid, take out the bread, fill them with the mince; put the lid on again, and send them to table hot.

Fish Patties.

Take about a pound of any kind of fresh fish, boil it and pick the meat from the bones, beat it well in a mortar, with half a pound of bread-crumbs, some parsley and lemon-peel shred fine, season it with beaten mace, pepper and salt; put in a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, mix it up with the yolk of an egg, butter your patty-pans, lay in a thin sheet of puff-paste, roll some of the force-meat round, and put in, put a cover of puff-paste over them, rub them over with the yolk of an egg, and bake them of a gold colour.

Oyster Patties.

Boil a large silver eel, pick the meat from the bones, and beat it in a mortar, with a little cloves and mace, and a little mountain wine to moisten it; blanch six large oysters, and wrap a little force-meat round them, put them in the paste as above, and bake them. You may make them thus; put a piece of crumb of bread between the paste, as for chicken, &c. patties, scald two dozen large oysters, wash them clean, and chop them, but not two small, put them into a stew-pan, with a little of the liquor, a glass of mountain, some grated nutmeg, a piece of butter mixed with flour, put it over the fire, and keep it stirring till it is thick; when the patties are taken out of the oven, take out the bread, put in the oysters, and send them up hot; or for garnish round fish, &c.

Oyster Loaves.

The proper oyster loaves are made by the biscuit-baker; [Page] but if you cannot get them, take six small French rolls rasped cut a hole in the tops and pick out the crumbs but mind you do not break the crust, and put the loaves or rolls before the five go crisp; take as many oysters as you think you will want, scald them and strain the liquor from them, wash and beard them, put them into a stew-pan, strain the liquor from the settlings to them, put in a gill of mountain wine, a little cream, a piece of butter mixed with flour, a little nutmeg, put them over the fire, and keep them stirring till it is thick; then put them, sauce and all, into the loaves, and send them to table hot for a side dish.

Lobster Patties.

Boil a fine large lobster, pick out all the meat, mince it very small, bruise the spawn fine, season it with beaten mace, pepper and salt, mix it up with a little butter, and the yolk of an egg, put it into puff-paste, as the other patties, and bake them.

Fried Patties.

Roll out some good puff-paste, about as big as a crown piece, and put either a little veal force-meat, or fish it to it, turn it over, and close it like an apple puff; have a pan of boiling hot hogs-lard, fry them quick, and of a fine brown; put them on a sieve before the fire to drain, and send them round made dishes, fish, &c.

TARTS, TARTLETS, AND PUFFS.

IN the beginning of this chapter you have proper directions for making all sorts of paste; and as it is necessary that pastry of all kinds should be in one [Page] chapter, it will not be improper to end it with small pastry. When you use preserved fruit for tarts, the best method will be to put them into glass patty-pans, and cut a cover out of crocant past into any shape you please, bake it on a tin by itself, and put it over the fruit in the glass, for the oven spoils preserves, except rasberry jam. When you make bottled fruit into tarts, such as gooseberries, damsons, and cranberries, put them into china or earthenware patty-pans, sweeten them with sugar, put a thin puff-paste over them, and ice them. If you make them in tin patty-pans to turn out, sprinkle some flour on the patty-pans, lay a thin tart paste in, then put in the fruit and sugar, and a thin crust at the top, ice them, and bake them in a slow oven: and as soon as they are done slip them out of the patty-pans, or loosen them; for if you let them stand to be cold you will not get them out without breaking them to pieces; for apple tarts, you must pare, quarter, and core the apples, if they are large cut the quarters in two, and put them in with a little lemon-peel chopped fine, and a little marmalade of quinces, with sugar over them; or you may put the apples into a sauce-pan, with a little water and a little lemon-peel, and boil them till they are tender; take out the lemon-peel, bruise them fine, and sweeten them with sugar; when they are cold put them into the patty-pans and make them the same as bottled fruit, and ice them; you may make green gooseberry, or all sorts of ripe fruit, into tarts, such as currants, cherries of all sorts, plumbs, damsons, white bullace, apricots, &c. the same as bottled fruit.

Orange or Lemon Tarts.

Take six large oranges or lemons, rub them well with salt, put them in water for two days, with a handful of salt in it; then change them into fresh water every day (without salt) for a fortnight, then put them into a sauce-pan of water, and boil them for two or three hours till they are tender, cut them into half quarters, and then three corner-ways, as thin as possible; pare, quarter, and core six pippins, put [Page] them into a sauce-pan with a pint of water, boil them till they are tender, break them smooth with a spoon, and put the liquor and pippins to your oranges or lemons, with a pound of fine sugar, and boil all together for a quarter of an hour: if for an orange tart; squeeze in the juice of an orange; if for lemon the juice of a lemon; put it into gallipots, and when cold tie paper over them. When you make the tarts, let your china, or other patty-pans be small and shallow, fill them nearly full, and put a thin puff-paste over them, ice them, and bake them in a slow oven till the paste is done.

Green Apricot Tarts.

Take your green apricots, put some vine or cabbage leaves at the bottom of a preserving-pan, put them in, and cover them with spring water; put vine or cabbage leaves at the top, put a board or trencher on that, to keep them under water, and scald them till they are yellow; then take them out, put them into cold water a minute, and take them out of the water; then put vine or cabbage leaves at the bottom of your preserving-pan, put them in, and cover them with cold spring water; put vine or cabbage leaves over them, put them at a good distance from the fire, and let them simmer up, but not to boil; put them away all night in the pan and liquor, and the next morning they will be green; take them out, put them into another pan, with as much of the liquor as will moisten them, sweeten them with fine sugar to your palate, give them a boil till the sugar is melted, and when they are cold make them into tarts, in china, earthenware, or tin patty-pans, with what sort of paste you please, ice them, and bake them in a slow oven till the paste is done.

Green Almond Tarts.

Gather the almonds off the tree before they begin to shell, and rub off the down with a coarse cloth; have a pan of spring water ready to put them in, as [Page] fast at they are done; then put them into a skillet, cover them with spring water, and put them over the fire at a great distance till it simmers; change the water twice, and let them remain in till the last, till they begin to be tender; then take them out, and put them in a clean cloth, with another over them, and gently press them, to make them dry; then make a syrup with double-refined sugar, put them in, and simmer them a few minutes; repeat it the next day; then put them into a stone jar, and cover them very close, for if the least air gets to them they will turn black; when you use them, put them into patty-pans and put either puff or tart paste over them; ice and bake them in a moderate oven.

Rhubarb Tarts.

Take the stalks off the rhubarb that grows in the garden, peel the skin off, and cut them the size of a gooseberry, put them into china or earthen-ware patty-pans, with sugar over them, and put on a paste either puff or tart, ice them, and bake them the same as green gooseberries, and they will eat like them.

Angelica Tarts.

Take some golden pippins or nonpariels, pare and core them; take the stalks of angelica, peel and cut them into small pieces, an equal quantity of apples and angelica; put the apples into a stew-pan, with water enough to cover them, with some lemon-peel and fine sugar, boil them gently till they are a thin syrup; then strain the syrup from the apples to the angelica, put it over the fire, let it boil gently for ten minutes; then put it away to cool; take any sort of patty pans, and lay a thin puff-paste at the bottom, put on a thin layer of the apples, and then of angelica, till it is full, fill them with syrup, string them across with paste, the same as tartlets, and bake them in a slow oven.

Icing for Tarts.

Beat up the white of an egg to a high froth, with [Page] a paste-brush put it on the top of the tarts, and sift on them fine powder sugar; before you put them in the oven sprinkle a little water over them. Or thus: beat up the white of an egg to a high froth, and put in two ounce of fine powder sugar; with a wooden spoon beat it well for a quarter of an hour, then with a knife lay it very thin over the tarts.

Apple Tartlets.

Pare, quarter, and core six pippins, put them into a sauce-pan, with a little water and lemon-peel, and boil them gently till they are tender; then beat them up well with a spoon till they are smooth, sweeten them with fine sugar, take out the lemon-peel, and put in a tea-spoonful of rose water; sprinkle a little flour on your small tin patty-pans, lay in a thin sheet of puff-paste, and then put in your apples; roll out a thin sheet of puff-paste, cut it in as fine strings as you can, and string them across and across in what shape you please; rub a little white of an egg on, sift a little powder sugar over, and bake them in a slow oven of a nice light colour; then slip them out into the dish.

Rasberry Tartlets.

Sprinkle a little flour over the patty-pans, lay a thin sheet of puff-paste at the bottom, then put in some rasberry jam, string them the same as the apple tartlets, sift sugar over them, and bake them in a slow oven.

Apricot Tartlets.

Take a dozen ripe apricots, take out the stones, put them into a sauce-pan with a little water, and coddle them till they are tender; then beat them up with a spoon till they are smooth, and sweeten them with fine sugar; sprinkle a little flour on your patty-pans, lay a thin sheet of puff-paste at the bottom, put in the apricots, and string them as before. When [Page] you choose to put cream on them, you will hare no occasion to string them, only lay a thin puff-paste over the patty-pans, put in the fruit, and notch the edges all round with a knife, and bake them; when they are done put a spoonful of cream over them made the same as for coddling pies.

Apple Puffs.

Pare, quarter, and core six large apples, put them into a sauce-pan with a little water and lemon-peel, cover them close, and stew them gently till they are tender; take out the lemon-peel, and with a spoon beat them smooth, sweeten them with sugar, and put in a tea-spoonful of rose water, make a nice puff-paste, roll it out thin to any small size you please, put in a little of the apple, turn the paste over, and close them with a knife; cut them either three-corner ways or square, or in any shape you please, ice them, and bake them in a moderate oven on tin or iron plates.

Rasberry Puffs.

Make a nice puff-paste, roll it out in small sizes about as big as a crown piece, put in a spoonful of rasberry jam, turn the paste over, cut them in what shape you please, ice them, and bake them in a moderate oven on tin or iron plates.

Apricot Puffs.

Take a dozen ripe apricots, take out the stones, put them into a sauce-pan with a little water, stew them till they are tender, then mash them with a spoon, rub them through a sieve, and sweeten them with sugar; make a nice puff-paste, roll it out in pieces about as big as a crown piece, put a little apricot on, turn the paste over, close them, and cut them in what shape you please, ice them, and bake them in a moderate oven on tin or iron plates.

You may make any kind of ripe plumb puffs in the same manner.

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Curd Puffs.

Take two quarts of new milk, and put a little rennet to it, and when it is broken put it on a sieve to drain, then rub the curd through a hair sieve, and put to it a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, about half a pound of fine bread-crumbs, half a nutmeg grated, the rind of a lemon grated, a spoonful of white wine, sweeten it to your palate, and mix all well together; butter some small tea-cups, put in your ingredients, and bake them half an hour; when they are done turn them out into a dish.

Sugar Puffs.

Take the whites of ten eggs, and beat them well with a whisk till they rise to a high froth, then put them into a marble mortar, and add as much double-refined sugar powdered as will make it thick, rub it round the mortar for half an hour, and put in a few carraway seeds; take a sheet of wasers, and lay it on as broad as a sixpence, and as high as you can, put them into a moderate oven for seven or eight minutes, then they will look as white as snow.

Chocolate Puffs.

Take half a pound of double-refined sugar, beat and sift it fine, scrape into it one ounce of chocolate very fine, and mix them together; beat up the white of an egg to a very high froth, then put in your chocolate and sugar, and beat it till it is as stiff as a paste; then strew sugar on some writing-paper, drop them on about the size of a sixpence, and bake them in a very slow oven; when they are done take them off the paper and put them in plates.

Almond Puffs.

Blanch and skin two ounce of almonds, and beat them fine in a mortar with orange-flower water; take the whites of three eggs, and beat them to a high froth, then put in some powder sugar finely sifted, [Page] mix your almonds with the sugar and eggs, and then add more sugar till it is as thick as a paste; strew some sugar on a sheet of writing paper, lay it on in small cakes, and bake it in a cool oven.

Lemon Puffs.

Beat a pound of double refined sugar, sift it through a fine sieve, put it into a bowl, with the juice of two lemons strained through a sieve, and beat them well together; then beat up the white of an egg to a very high froth, put it into the lemon-juice and sugar, beat all well for half an hour, grate in the rind of two lemons, beat up three eggs and put in, and mix it well up; sprinkle some sugar on writing-paper, drop on the mixture in small drops, and bake them a few minutes in a moderate oven.

CHAP. XVIII.
PANCAKES AND FRITTERS.

WHEN you make pancakes and fritters, always mix them one hour or two before you fry them, by that means the lumps in the flour will dissolve, only mind to stir your batter well up before you use it, and be sure your frying-pans are very clean and smooth, otherwise your pancakes will stick and break. For fritters, be sure your fat is very sweet and clean, or else it will give them a disagreeable, strong taste; and never fry them till they are nearly wanting, for by frying them too soon they get flat and insipid.

Cream Pancakes.

Mix a large spoonful of flour to half a pint of [Page] cream, break in two eggs, and beat them well till all is smooth; put in two ounces of powder sugar, a little beaten cinnamon and nutmeg; put a little hogs-lard or butter into your frying-pan, make it hot, put in a large spoonful of batter, move the pan round till it covers the bottom and is even all over, fry one side brown, then toss it over, and fry the other side; put them on a dish before the fire over one another, till the whole is done, send them to table hot, with beaten cinnamon and sugar in a small plate or saucer.

Fine Pancakes.

Mix half a pint of cream with a large spoonful of flour, put in half a pint of sack, the yolks of eighteen eggs beat fine, a tea spoonful of salt, half a pound of powder sugar, a little beaten cinnamon and nutmeg, mix all well together till it is smooth, and fry them with fresh butter as above.

Fine Pancakes a second Way.

Mix a pint of cream with flour to a thin batter, [...] in half a pound of fresh butter melted and almost cold, eight eggs well beat, half a nutmeg grated, a little salt, mix them well up, and fry them as, before.

A third Way.

Beat six new laid eggs well, with half a pint of cream, a quarter of a pound of sugar, half a nutmeg grated, as much flour as will make them of a proper thickness, and fry them as above.

Milk Pancakes.

Mix a pint of milk with as much flour as will make it a thin batter, put in a glass of brandy, a little nutmeg, ginger, and salt, break in four eggs, beat them well together till they are smooth, and [Page] fry them as before directed, and sprinkle sugar over them.

Common Pancakes.

Mix a quart of milk with as much flour as will make it into a thin batter, break in six eggs, put in a little salt, and a spoonful of beaten ginger, mix all well together, fry them as before directed, and sprinkle sugar over them.

A Quire of Paper Pancakes.

Mix a pint of cream with three spoonsful of fine flour, three of sack, and one of orange flower water a little powder sugar, half a nutmeg grated, half a pound of fresh butter melted almost cold, and mix all well together; put a piece of butter in the pan as big as a walnut, let them run in the pan as thin as possible and fry them of a light brown on both sides.

Rice Pancakes.

Take three spoonsful of flour of rice, put it into a sauce-pan with a quart of cream, put it over a flow fire, and keep it stirring till it is thick and smooth; stir in half a pound of fresh butter and half a nutmeg grated, then pour it into an earthen pan to cool; when it is cold stir in three or four spoonsful of flour, half a pound of fine sugar, a little fall, and nine eggs beat well; stir all well together, and fry them with hogs lard or fresh butter of a nice brown on both sides, the same way as the first pancakes. If you have no cream, use new milk only, and put in four spoonsful of the rice instead of three.

Tansey Pancakes.

Put four spoonsful of flour into on earthen pan, and mix it with half a pint off cream to a smooth batter, beat four eggs well and put in, with two [Page] ounces of powder sugar, and beat all well together for a quarter of an hour; then put in two spoonsful of the juice of spinach and one of tansey, a little grated nutmeg, mix all well together, and fry them with fresh butter: garnish them with Seville oranges cut in quarters, and strew powder sugar over them.

Pink-coloured Pancakes.

Take a large red beet-root and boil it tender, take off all the skins, beat it well in a mortar, and add four eggs beat well, two large spoonsful of flour, and three or four spoonsful of cream, sweeten it with fine sugar to your palate, grate in half a nutmeg, put in a glass or brandy, fry them with fresh butter, and garnish them with preserved sweetmeats, or sprigs of myrtle.

Apple Fritters,

Take six large apples, pare, quarter, and take out the cores, put them in a deep dish, pour over them a glass of brandy, some lemon-peel shred fine, and grate half a nutmeg over them; mix a gill of cream with two eggs and flour into a stiff batter, put it to the apples, with two ounces of powder sugar, and mix them well together; have a large pan of hogs-lard boiling hot, and as quick as you can put them in, and fry them crisp of a nice gold colour; take them out, and put them on a sieve before the fire to drain; then heap them up high in a dish, sprinkle powder sugar over them, and garnish them with Seville orange cut in half quarters, or sweetmeats.

Apple Fritters a second Way.

Pare six large apples, and with a corer take out the cores, and cut them in slices as thick as a half-crown piece; mix half a pint of cream and two eggs with flour into a stiff batter, put in a glass of brandy, a little lemon-peel shred fine, two ounces of [Page] powder sugar, mix it well up, and then put in the apples; [...] a pan of hogs-lard boiling hot, put in [...] you can, and fry them quick [...] both sides; then take them [...] then put them [...] garnish them with preserved or dried [...] or Seville orange cut in half-quarters.

Fine Fritters.

Take [...] half a pound of the finest flour, dry it well before the fire, and mix it into a stiff batter with new milk or cream, beat up six eggs well, strain them through a sieve to the batter, grate in a little nutmeg, beaten mace, and salt, with a glass of sack or brandy, and beat them well together; pare, core, and chop six pippins fine, and put them in; have a pan of hogs-lard boiling, and with a spoon drop them in as quick as you can, fry them of a light brown, put them on a sieve to drain before the fire; then dish them, garnish as before, and strew fine sugar over them.

Fritters Royal.

[...] quart of new milk into a sauce-pan and make it boil, then put in a pint of sack, or mountain [...] boil it up again, and let it stand five or six minutes; the [...] strain the whey from the curd, put the curd into a mortar, and beat it well with six eggs; then beat it with a whisk, put in a little beaten cinnamon and nutmeg, sweeten it to your palate with fine sugar, and make it into a thick batter with flour; have a pan of hogs-lard boiling hot, and with a spoon drop them in, in drops as big as a large nutmeg, fry them quick of a light brown, put them on a sieve to drain, then dish them, and garnish as before.

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Hasty Fritters.

Mix half a pint of mild ale with [...] into a batter moderately stiff put in some currants clean washed and picked, or some apples pared, cored, and chopped fine, and beat it up quick; in the mean time put half a pound of butter into a stew-pan, make it hot, and with a spoon drop in the fritters, as is quick as you can, but take care they do not stick together, then with an egg-slice turn them; when they are of a fine brown put them into a dish, strew some powder sugar over them, and garnish with a Seville orange cut in half quarters.

Curd Fritters.

Take half a pint of cheese curd, and as much flour, beat them well together, with ten eggs beat and strained, sweeten them with sugar, put in a little beaten cloves, mace, nutmeg, and a little saffron, and stir all well together; have a pan of hogs-lard boiling hot, and with a spoon drop them in as quick as you can, fry them of a light brown, put them on a sieve before the fire to drain a moment, then put them in a dish, and garnish with Seville orange cut in quarters.

Skirret Fritters.

Boil some skirret-roots till they are very tender, take off the outside, and beat a pint of the pulp very fine, rub it through a sieve, and mix it with a large spoonful of flour and four eggs beat well, sweeten it with powder sugar, and put in a little grated nutmeg and ginger, and mix it into a thick batter; (if a large spoonful of flour is not sufficient put in more) have a pan of hogs-lard boiling hot, drop them in with a spoon, and fry them quick and brown; put them on a sieve before the fire to drain a minute, put them in a dish, and garnish with Seville orange cut in quarters, or dried sweetmeats.

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White Fritters.

Take two ounces of the flour of rice, and sift it through a very fine lawn sieve, put it into a sauce-pan, with milk enough to wet it, and when it is well incorporated put in a pint of milk, put the whole over a stove or flow fire, and take care to keep it moving; put in powder sugar to sweeten it, and some candied lemon peel shred very fine, keep it over the fire till it is as thick as paste, flour a peal, put it on, and with a rolling-pin spread it abroad, about quarter of an inch thick, and when it is quite cold cut it into small pieces; put half a pound of butter into a stew-pan, make it hot, and with a little flour roll your fritters with your hand; fry them of a light brown, then put them into a dish, and pour a spoonful of orange flower-water over them; sprinkle some powder-sugar over all, and send them to table hot.

Syringed Fritters.

Put a pint of water into a stew-pan, with a piece of butter as big as an egg; grate in the rind of a lemon, a preserved lemon-peel rasped, a few orange flowers crisped and rubbed fine; put all over the fire, and when it boils stir in some flour; which continue to do till it is as thick as batter; then take it off the fire: take an ounce of sweet almonds and four bitter ones, blanch and beat them fine in a mortar, rub two Naples biscuits through a fine cullender, and beat two eggs; mix all well together, and put in eggs till your batter is thin enough to syringe; then fill your syringe, have a pan of hogs-lard boiling hot, syringe in your fritters as quick as you can, in any form you please; have a slice ready to take them out in a moment, lay them on a sieve to drain, then put them in a dish, and strew powder sugar over them: or you may butter a sheet of paper, syringe your fritters on it in the form of a true-lover's knot, or any other shape; then turn the paper upside down over the pan of boiling hogs-lard or butter, so [Page] that they may drop off the paper into it; fry them of a light brown, lay them on a sieve to drain, dish them, and sprinkle powder sugar over them.

Vine Leaf Fritters,

Take a dozen of the smallest vine leaves you can get, cut off the stalks, put them in a deep dish, pour in a glass of brandy, and grate the [...]nd of a lemon over them, and about two ounces of powder sugar; mix a gill of cream with two eggs and flour to a stiff batter, and mix with them have a pan of boiling hogs-lard, minding that the leaves have plenty of batter on both sides; put them in, and fry them quick on both sides of a light brown, lay them on a sieve to drain, then put them in a dish, sprinkle powder sugar over them, and glaze them with a hot iron.

Clary Fritters.

Make a good stiff batter with half a pint of new milk, four eggs, and flour; grate in a little lemon-peel and some nutmeg, Put in two ounces of powder sugar, and a small glass of brandy; then take a dozen Clary leaves, cut away the stalks, put them into batter, taking care that they have plenty of it on both sides; have a pan of boiling hogs-lard, put them in one by one, and fry them quick on both sides of a light brown; then take them out, lay them on a sieve to drain a moment, put them in a dish, strew powder sugar over them, and glaze them with a hot iron. Note. You may dress Comsrey or Mulberry leaves the same way.

Potatoe Fritters.

Boil about a pound and a half of potatoes, peel and bruise them fine, rub them through a sieve, mix them with a large spoonful of flour, a spoonful of cream, three eggs well beat, a little lemon-peel shred [Page] fine, a little nutmeg, and powder sugar enough to sweeten them to your palate, a glass of mountain, and one of brandy; mix all well together; have a pan of boiling hogs-lard, and with a spoon drop them in as fast as you can; fry them on both sides of a light brown, lay them on a sieve to drain, then put them on a dish, and sprinkle powder sugar over them.

Note. You must send with all kind of frin [...] beaten cinnamon and powder sugar, in saucers, the same as for pancakes.

Apple Fraze.

Pare six large apples, take out the cores, cut them in slices, and fry them on both sides with butter; put them on a sieve to drain, mix half a pint of milk and two eggs with flour to a batter, not too stiff put in a little lemon-peel shred fine, a little beaten cinnamon, put some butter into a frying pan, and make it hot; put in half the batter, and lay the apples on it, let it fry a little to set it, then put the other batter over fry it on one side, then turn it and fry the other side brown; put it into a dish, strew powder sugar over it, and squeeze over it also the juice of a Seville orange.

Almond Fraze.

Take a pound of Jordan almonds, boil them in water a minute, strain them off, and put them into cold water; take off the skins, put them into a mortar, and beat them to a fine paste; put in a little cream to prevent their oiling; beat up the yolks of ten eggs, the whites of four well, with a pint of cream, and strain them through a sieve to the almonds; put in quarter of a pound of sugar, as much granted bread, a little rose-water; mix them all well together; put a quarter of a pound of fresh butter into a stew-pan, make it hot, pour in the staff, [Page] and keep stirring it till it is of a good thickness, then turn it into a dish, and strew powder sugar over it.

Bacon Fraze.

Cut a dozen thin rashers of bacon, put them into a frying-pen, and fry them on both sides, but not too much; have ready a pint of pancake batter, and put it in; fry it gently till one side is done, then rose or turn it, as you would a pancake, to do the other side, then put it into a dish.

CHAP. XIX.
CHEESECAKES AND CUSTARDS.

WHEN you make your cheesecakes, make them as near the time you want to bake them as you can, particularly almond or lemon or cheesecakes, as they will get oily by standing long, and acquire a disagreeable appearance; take care that your pans are well tinned, for custards in particular, and always wet the bottoms with water before you put the milk, &c. into them, as it will prevent their sticking or burning to the bottoms; and these articles should always by baked in a moderate oven, for a quick over will scorch them, and a very slack oven will make them look dingy, flat, and heavy; in this case there is no precise rules to be laid down, but must be learned by care and experience.

Fine Cheesecakes.

Take a pint of sweet cream, warm it, and put it to five quarts of milk warm from the cow; then put runnet to it, stir it about, and when broke strain the whey from the cord through a fine sieve or cloth, [Page] put it in a mortar, and beat it till it is as fine as butter; have half a pound of almonds blanched and beat fine, and half a pound of macaroons beat fine; if you have no macaroons, get Naples biscuits; beat the yolks of nine eggs very well, and strain them through a sieve; half a nutmeg grated, a spoonful of orange or rose water, half a pound of powder sugar; mix all well together; also mix well in a pound of melted fresh butter, with half a pound of currants clean washed and picked; let it stand till it is cold, and then make a nice puff-paste, as directed in the beginning of the chapter for pies. Flour some middling sized patty-pans, roll out the paste and put it on, crimp it round the edge with a knife; and then put in your stuff, with a little candied citron cut in slices at the top, and bake them.

Or you may roll out a piece of puff-paste, about as thick as a crown piece and quite round; put some stuff on, and raise up the edge of the paste round it, or make it into what shape you please; put a flourish of paste over it in strings, butter a tin or iron plate, and put them on to bake. You may use two perfumed plumbs, dissolved in orange or rose water, if you like it; or you may make a less quantity, according to the above receipt.

Common Cheesecakes.

Take a quart of new milk, and just warm it; put a spoonful of runnet into it, and set it near the fire till it is broke; then strain it through a sieve, put the curd into a pan, and beat it well with a spoon; melt a quarter of a pound of butter, put in the same quantity of moist sugar, a little grated nutmeg, two Naples biscuits grated fine, the yolks of four eggs beat well, and the whites of two, a spoonful of rose water, a glass of sack, quarter of a pound of currants plumped, and mix all well together. Make your paste as the before receipt, and treat them the same.

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Citron Cheesecakes.

Take a pint of cards, and beat them well in a mortar till they are fine; blanch and beat a quarter of a pound of almonds with orange flower water; beat the yolks of four eggs well, two Naples biscuits grated, sweeten it with powder sugar, shred some green citron very fine, mix all well together, and bake them in tea cups, or with puff-paste in patty-pans, with a little candied citron cut in slips and put on the tops.

Lemon Cheesecakes.

Cut the peel of two large lemons very thin, boil it in plenty of water till it is very tender, pound it well in a mortar with half a pint of curds, a quarter of a pound of powder sugar, the yolks of six eggs beat well, and half a pound of fresh butter melted; beat and mix all well together; sprinkle a little flour on your patty-pans, put a sheet of puff-paste on, and crimp the edges with a knife; then fill them rather more than half with the stuff; and put a little candied lemon-peel cut in thin slices, at the top, and bake them.

Orange cheesecakes are made the same way, only boil the orange-peel in three different waters, to take off the bitterness, and put a candied orange pees on the tops.

Lemon Cheesecakes, a second Way.

Grate the rind of two large lemons, and squeeze the juice of one into a stew-pan; put in half a pound of double-refined sugar, twelve yolks of eggs beat fine, melt half a pound of fresh butter in three or four spoonsful of cream, stir all well together, set it over the fire, and continue stirring it till it grows thick; then take it off, and let it cool; when cold sprinkle a little flour on the patty-pans, put on a thin sheet of puff-paste, crimp the edges round with a knife, fill them little more than half full, and bake them in a moderate oven.

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Almond Cheesecakes.

Take half a pound of Jordon almonds, boil them in water one minute, take off the skins and throw them into cold water, wash them out and dry them in a cloth, beat them beat them very fine in a marble mortar, with a little orange flower water to keep them from oiling; beat up the yolks of six eggs, the whites of two, and strain them through a sieve to the almonds; put in half a pound of powder sugar, a little beaten mace and cinnamon, melt half a pound of fresh butter, and put it in with the rind of half a lemon grated; mix all well together; sprinkle a little flour on the patty-pans, put on a thin sheet of puff-paste, crimp it all round with a knife, fill them rather more than half full, blanch a few almonds and cut them in thin slips and lay on: bake them in a moderate oven.

Plain Cheesecakes.

Take two quarts of milk from the cow, put in some runnet, and set it near the fire till it breaks; then strain the whey from the curd through a sieve; put it into a marble mortar and beat it well, melt half a pound of fresh butter and put in with two spoonsful of rose water, beat it well together; then beat up the [...] strain them through a sieve to the curds, sweeten it with fine sugar, grate in a little nutmeg, flour your patty-pans, put a thin puff-paste over them, crimp them round with a knife, and more than half fill them with the stuff; or roll out puff-paste round, put some stuff on, pull up the edges all round, lay them on tin or iron plates, and bake them in a moderate oven.

Rice Cheesecakes.

Take a quarter of a pound of rice, wash and pick it clean, boil it in two quarts of water till it is tender, strain it through a sieve, and let it drain; put it into a stew-pan with half a pint of cream, half a pound of fresh butter, and half a pound sugar, a spoonful of orange flower water, a little lemon-peel [Page] shred fine, mix it all well together with six eggs well beaten, and a glass of brandy; put it over the fire, and stir it till it is thick; then take it off the fire, and let it go cold; in the mean time flour your patty-pans, put some puff-paste on them, crimp them round the edge with a knife, and when your stuff is cold, fill them nearly full, and bake them in a flow oven.

Maids of Honour.

Take half a pint of sweet curds, beat them well in a marble mortar till they are as smooth as butter, put in half a pint of cream, the yolks of four eggs, the whites of two, well beaten and strained through a sieve; a quarter of a pound of fresh butter melted, a little grated lemon-peel and nutmeg, one ounce of candied citron shred very fine, a glass of brandy, and a spoonful of orange flower water; sweeten it to your palate with powder sugar; mix the ingredients all well together, have your patty-pans very small, sprinkle on a little flour, put a thin puff-paste over them, more than half fill them, and bake them in a moderate oven.

Fine Custards.

Take a pint of cream, and boil it with a few coriander seeds, a little lemon-peel, a laurel leaf, and a bit of cinnamon; sweeten it with fine sugar to your palate, beat up five eggs very well, and, when the cream is nearly cold, pour the eggs and cream backward and forward between two vessels till they are well mixt, then strain them through a fine sieve; put them into a cup and bake them.

Plain Custards.

Take a quart of new milk, and boil it with a little coriander seeds, a little lemon-peel, two laurel leaves, and sweeten it with fine sugar to your palate; beat up eight eggs very well, and when the milk is nearly cold, pour the milk and eggs backward and forward between two vessels till they are well mixt, then strain them through a sieve, put them into cups [Page] and bake them: you may put in a spoonful of rose water when you mix the milk and eggs together; and if you have not an oven, make use of a stew-pan of boiling water; put the cups in, and let the water come about half way up, boil them gently till they are set, then take them out, and brown them on the tops with a hot shovel or iron.

Almond Custards.

Take a quarter of a pound of almonds, blanch and beat them fine in a mortar, keep putting in a little cream to prevent their oiling; put a pint of cream into a stew-pan, the yolks of four eggs well beat, a spoonful of rose water, a little sack, grated nutmeg, and sugar to sweeten it to your palate, put it over a stove, and stir it one was till [...] thick; then put in the almonds, and [...] the cream, then pour it into cups, [...] the caps with a hot shovel or iron.

Orange Custards.

Pare the rind off a seville orange as thin as you can, boil it in plenty of water till it is very tender; beat it in a marble mortar till very fine, put in a spoonful of brandy, a quarter of a pound of powder sugar, the yolks of four eggs; beat all well together for ten minutes; then, by degrees, pour in a pint of boiling cream stirring it all the time, and even till it is cold; then squeeze in the juice of a seville orange, taking care that none of the seeds get in; then put it into cups; let them be put into a stew pan of boiling water, standing about half way up, and remain there till set; then take them out, and stick candied orange-peel, cut in slips, on the top.

Note. You may make Lemon Custards the same way; only stick candied lemon-peel on the tops, in stead of orange.

CHAP. XX.
Blanc'mange, Creams, and Flummery.

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Blanc'mange.

TAKE a calf's foot, cut it in small pieces, put it into a sauce-pan with a quart of water, one ounce of isinglass, a little lemon-peel, and a stick of cinnamon; boil it gently, and skim it well, till it is of a very strong jelly, which you may know by putting a little in a spoon to get cold; then strain it off, put it into a stew-pan with a few coriander seeds, and two or three laurel leaves; blanch and beat an ounce of sweet almonds, and two bitter ones (not two ounces), [...]ry fame put them in, sweeten it with sugar to your palate, and let it boil up; then put in a pint of good thick cream, and boil it again; strain it into a bowl, and let it stand till it is half cold, then pour it off from the settlings into another bowl; let your molds be ready, fill them, let them stand to be cold; when they are thoroughly cold, raise them with your fingers from the sides, dip the bottom of the mold in warm water, and turn them out into a dish: garnish with jellies of different colours; or currant jelly; or Seville orange cut in quarters, or flowers, or any thing you fancy.

Blanc'mange, a second Way.

Put a quart of sweet cream into a stew-pan, with two ounces of isinglass, a stick of cinnamon, a little lemon-peel, a few coriander seeds, two or three laurel leaves; sweeten it with sugar to your palate, boil it gently till the isinglass is dissolved; in the mean time blanch one ounce of sweet almonds, and [Page] two bitter ones, beat them fine in a mortar, and put them in; stir it well about, then strain it through a fine sieve into a bowl, let it stand till it is half cold, then pour it from the settlings into another bowl.—Let your moulds be ready, and proceed as before directed.

Blanc'mange, a third Way.

Put a quart of new milk into a stew-pan, with two ounces of isinglass, a stick of cinnamon, a little lemon-peel, a few coriander seeds, two or three laurel leaves, sweeten it to your palate, cut six bitter almonds in slices and put in, boil it gently till the isinglass is dissolved, then strain it through a fine sieve into a bowl, and proceed as before.

When you want to colour your Blanc'mange green, just when it is done, put in a little spinach juice, but take care that it does not boil after it is put in, for in that case it will curdle, and be spoiled. If you wish to have it red, bruise a little cochineal and put in; if yellow, a little saffron; if violet colour, a little syrup of violets; and by this means you may have five different colours in the dish, that is, plain white, green, yellow, red and violet. Let your mould for the white be deeper than the rest; put it in the middle of the dish, and the others round it: garnish as directed in the first receipt.

Steeple Cream.

Put two ounces of ivory, cut very fine, and six ounces of hartshorn, into a stone bottle, fill it up with fair water to the neck; put in a little gum arabic and gum dragon, then tie the mouth of the bottle close, and set it in a pot of water with hay at the bottom, and let it simmer for six hours; then take it out, and let it stand an hour before you open it, for fear it should fly in your face; strain it through a fine sieve into a pan that it may cool; when it is cold, observe that it is of a very strong jelly, if it is not, put it into a stew-pan, with two ounces of isinglass, let it simmer till the isinglass is dissolved; then take a half [Page] a pound of sweet almonds, blanch and beat them fine in a mortar, and as you beat them, put in a little cream to prevent them oiling, and afterwards mix them with a pint of thick cream, strain them through a fine sieve into a stew-pan, and put in a pint of jelly; sweeten it to your palate with fine powder sugar, set it over the fire till it is scalding hot, take care that it does not boil; then take it off, and put a little amber into it, strain it through a sieve into a bowl, and let it stand a few minutes; have your steeple moulds ready, pour it in, let it stand till quite cold, and careful turn it out into a dish. Garnish with currant jelly, sweetmeats, or any thing you fancy.

Lemon Cream.

Put the rind of two lemons very thin, the juice of three, with a pint of spring water; beat the whites of six eggs very fine, and mix with the lemon and water; sweeten it with sugar to your taste; put it over a slow fire, stir it till it thickens, and take care that it does not boil; strain it through a fine lawn sieve; beat up the yolks of six eggs, and mix with it in a stew-pan, put it over a slow fire till it thickens, then pour it into a bowl, and continue stirring it till it is nearly cold; afterwards put it into cups or glasses.

Lemon Cream, a second Way.

Peel off the rind of two lemons very thin, boil them in plenty of water till they are quite tender, and beat them fine in a mortar; in the mean time, cut two calf's feet very small, and put them in a sauce-pan, with two quarts of water, one ounce of isinglass, a stick of cinnamon, and some lemon-peel; boil it gently till it is reduced to a quart, strain it off, skim off the fat very clean, put it into a stew-pan with the beaten lemon-peel, sweeten it with sugar to your taste, and let it boil up; beat up the yolks of six eggs very fine, put them in, stir them well for a minute or two, then strain it through a fine sieve; squeeze in the juice of two lemons, stirring it a few [Page] minutes, then pour in into your moulds: when they are thoroughly cold, turn them out into a dish, and garnish as you fancy.

You may make Orange Cream in the same manner, only boil the peel in three or four different waters to take out the bitterness.

Orange Cream, a second Way.

Take a fine clean Seville orange, pare the rind off very thin, squeeze the juice of four oranges, put them into a stew-pan, with half a pint of water and half a pound of fine powder sugar; beat the whites of five eggs, and mix into it; set them on a slow fire, stir it one way till it gets thick and white, then strain it through a gauze sieve, and stir it till it is cold; beat the yolks of five eggs very fine, mix all together in a stew-pan, put it over a slow fire, stirring it till it nearly boils; pour it into a bowl, and continue stirring it till it is nearly cold; then put it into your cups or glasses.

Rhenish Cream.

Cut two calf's feet very small, put them into a sauce-pan with two quarts of water, a stick of cinnamon, and a little lemon-peel; boil them gently till reduced to less than a quart, strain it off, and skim it to be free from fat; put it into a stew-pan, with a lettle lemon-peel, two laurel leaves, a few coriander seeds, and a little saffron; sweeten it with fine sugar to your palate, and let it boil up; beat the yolks of eight eggs very fine, take the cream off the fire and stir in the eggs well; put it over the fire a moment, taking care that it does not boil; strain it through a sieve, put in a gill of Rhenish wine, stir it till it is half cold, then put it in moulds; when it is cold, turn it out into a dish, and garnish as you fancy.

Jelly of Cream.

Take a quarter of a pound of hartshorn, put it into a sauce-pan with three pints of water; a stick of cinnamon, and a little lemon-peel; boil it gently [Page] till it becomes a stiff jelly, which you may know by putting some into a spoon to cool; strain it through a fine sieve into a stew-pan, put to it half a pint of cream, sweeten it to your taste, and give it a gentle boil; take it off the fire, put in two spoonsful of rose water, two of sack, and stir it a few minutes; then put it into your moulds, and when cold turn them carefully into a dish. Garnish with jelly, sweet-meats, or what you please.

Pistachio Cream.

Break half a pound of Pistachico nuts, take out the kernels, beat them fine in a mortar, with a spoonful of brandy, and a little cream; rub them through a sieve to take out the skins; put them into a stew-pan with a pint of sweet cream, a little powder sugar, and the yolks of four eggs beaten fine; stir all well together, put it over a slow fire till it is near boiling, (but mind it does not boil, as that will spoil it) then put it into a soup-plate, or small deep dish; when cold, stick some kernels, cut length ways, all over it, and send it to table.

Pistachio Cream, a second Way.

Take two ounces of isinglass, boil it in a pint of water, with a little lemon peel, and a small stick of cinnamon, till thoroughly dissolved; strain it through a [...]ne sieve into a stew-pan, sweeten it with fine sugar, put in a pint of cream; break half a pound of Pistachio nuts, beat them fine in a mortar with a little cream, rub them through a sieve, put them into a stew-pan, boil it gently, then pour it into a bowl, and let it remain till half cold; afterwards put it into what moulds you please, or deep cups; when quite cold, turn it out into a dish, and garnish to your fancy.

Hartshorn Cream.

Put four ounces of hartshorn shavings in three pint [...] of water, boil it till reduced to nearly half a pint, and run it through a jelly bag; put it into a stew-pan [Page] with a pint of cream, quarter of a pound of sugar, and just give it a boil up; then put it into small moulds, cups, or glasses; when cold, dip them in warm water, and turn them on the dish. Blanch a few almonds, cut them in slips, and stick them in your cream: garnish with flowers.

Almond Cream.

Take a quart of cream, boil it with a stick of cinnamon, a little lemon-peel, two or three laurel leaves, sweeten it to your taste; blanch half a pound of almonds, beat them fine in a mortar with a little cream, mix them with the cream, and give it a boil; then strain it through a sieve; beat up the yolks of nine eggs very fine, mix them well with the cream; put it over a flow fire, and stir it one way till it is thick, observing that it does not boil; then pour it into a bowl, put in a spoonful of rose or orange flower water, and stir it till nearly cold; then put it into cups, or glasses.

Ratifia Cream.

Boil a quart of cream with six laurel leaves, a stick of cinnamon, and a little lemon-peel; put in a little ratifia; when boiled, strain it through a sieve into another stew-pan; beat up the yolks of eight eggs well with a little cold cream, mix them with the hot cream, sweeten it to your palate with powder sugar, put it over a slow fire, stirring it one way till it is thick, and when near boiling, pour it into deep china dishes, or small basons, to get cold for use.

Barley Cream.

Boil an ounce of pearl barley in milk and water till it is tender; then strain the liquor from it, and put it into a stew-pan with a quart of good cream, and boil it five minutes; sweeten it with sugar to your palate; beat up six eggs well, take the cream off the fire, mix in the eggs by degrees, set it over the fire again, stir it one way till it is thick, then take [Page] it off, put in two spoonsful of orange flower water, and pour it into basons; when cold serve it up.

Goosberry Cream.

Take two quarts of goosberries, put them into a sauce-pan, just cover them with water, scald them till they are tender, then rub them through a sieve with a spoon to a quart of pulp, have six eggs well beaten, make your pulp hot, and put in one ounce of fresh butter; sweeten it to your taste, stir in your eggs, put it over a gentle fire till they are thick, but you must take care they do not boil, then stir in a gill of the juice of spinach, and when it is almost cold, stir in a spoonful of orange flower water, or sack; pour it into basons, and when cold serve it up.

Lute Cream.

Boil a quart of new milk with a stick of cinnamon, a little lemon-peel, and two or three laurel leaves; sweeten it to your taste; strain it through a sieve into another stew-pan, beat up the yolks of eight eggs, the whites of two, with a little milk, very fine; stir the eggs into the milk, put it over a flow fire, and stir it one way till it is thick; pour it into a bowl, put two spoonsful of rose or orange flower water into it, and stir it till it is cold; then put it into glasses or cups.

Whip Cream.

Take a quart of cream, put it into a broad pan, with half a pint of sack, half a pound of fine powder sugar; beat up the whites of four eggs to a high froth, and put in, with some lemon-peel cut thin; you may perfume it, if you please, with a little musk or ambergrease tied in a bag, and steeped in the cream; whip it up well with a whisk, and, as the froth rises, put it into cups, glasses, or small basons; or you may put it over fine fruit tarts.

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Clouted Cream.

Take four quarts of milk from the cow, in the evening, put it into a broad earthen pan, and let it stand till the next day, then put the dish over a very slow fire, and another dish over it to keep out the dust; make it nearly hot, to set the cream; put it away to get cold, then take the cream off into a bowl, and beat it well with a spoon. It is accounted very fine in the West of England for tea and coffee, or to put over fruit pies and tarts.

Quince Cream.

Take as much cream as you think you will want, boil it with a little cinnamon and lemon-peel, make it very sweet with sugar, strain it off, and let it get cold; put your quinces into boiling water, boil them quick, uncovered, till they are tender; pare and beat them very fine, rub them through a sieve, then put them into a mortar, and mix the cream well with them. Put it into small basons or glasses, and serve it up.

Citron Cream.

Take a quart of cream and put it into a stew-pan, with one ounce of isinglass, a stick of cinnamon, two laurel leaves, a little lemon-peel; sweeten it to your taste with fine sugar, boil it gently till the isinglass is dissolved, then strain it off; put it into a deep China dish, or small basons; cut some green citron in very thin small slices, wash it in rose water to raise the green colour, and when your cream is nearly cold, put in the citron, so that it may fall into the middle, and be covered with the cream at top, but not fall to the bottom. When cold, serve it up to table.

Rasberry Cream.

Take a quart of very ripe rasberries, or rasberry jam, rub them through a hair sieve to take out the seeds, mix it with a quart of good cream, sweeten it to your taste with fine powder sugar, and put in a [Page] spoonful of rose water; then put it into a deep pan, and with a chocolate mill raise a froth; as the froth rises take it off, and put it on a sieve to drain; if you have not a chocolate mill, put it into a broad pan, and whisk it with a whisk till the froth rises; as it rises take it off, and lay it on a sieve as before: when you have got as much froth as you want, put what cream remains into a deep China dish or bowl, and with a spoon put your froth upon it as high as you can, and stick a light flower in the middle, or pull the pips off some flowers, and put here and there over it.

Snow and Cream.

Take a quart of new milk, and boil it with a stick of cinnamon, a little lemon-peel, two or three laurel leaves, sweeten it with sugar to your taste, beat up the whites of four eggs, the yolks of six, very fine, mix the milk and eggs well together, and strain all through a fine sieve into a stew-pan; put it over a slow fire, and stir it one way till it is thick, then put it into a deep dish to get cold; when cold, beat the whites of six eggs to a high froth, put some milk and water into a broad stew-pan, and when it boils, take the froth off the eggs and put in on the milk and water, boil it up once, then with a slice take it carefully off, and lay it on your custard.

Ice Cream.

Take a dozen ripe apricots, pare them very thin and stone them, scald and put them into a mortar, and beat them fine; put to them six ounces of double-refined sugar, a pint of scalding cream, and rub it through a sieve with the back of a spoon; then put it into a tin with a close cover, and set it in a tub of ice broken small, with four handsful of salt mixt among the ice; when you see your cream get thick round the edges of your tin, stir it well, and put it in again till it becomes quite thick; when the cream is all froze up, take it out of the tin, and put it into the mould you intend to turn it out of: mind that [Page] you put a piece of paper on each end, between the lids and the ice cream, put on the top lid, and have another tub of ice ready, as before, put the mould in the middle, with the ice under and over it; let it stand four hours, and do not turn it out before you want it; then dip the mould into cold spring water, take off the lids and paper, and turn it into a plate. You may do any sort of fruit the same way.

Hartshorn Flummery.

Take half a pound of hartshorn shavings, put them into a sauce-pan with three pints of water, boil it gently till reduced to a pint, strain it into a bason, and set it by to cool; boil a pint of thick cream, and let it get cold; put your jelly on, and make it blood-warm; put the cream to it, with a jill of white wine, two spoonsful of orange flower water, sweeten it with fine sugar, and beat it till well mixt; dip your moulds or cups in cold water, then put in your flummery; when it is cold, turn it out into a dish, and mix a little cream, white wine, and sugar together, and pour into your dish. Cut a few blanched almonds in long slips, and stick in the tops of the flummery.

Hartshorn Flummery, a second Way.

Take four ounces of hartshorn shavings, put them into a sauce-pan with two quarts of spring water, let it simmer over the fire till reduced to a pint; or put it into a jug, and set it in the oven with houshold bread; strain it through a sieve into a stew-pan, blanch and beat half a pound of sweet almonds with a little orange flower water, mix a little of your jelly in, and fine sugar enough to sweeten it; then strain it through a sieve to the other jelly, mix it well together, and when it is blood warm put it into moulds or half-pint basons; when it is cold, dip the moulds or basons in warm water, and turn them into a dish. Mix some white wine and sugar together, and pour into the dish. You may stick almonds in, if you please.

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Oatmeal Flummery.

Get some oatmeal (Scotch is the best) and put it into a broad deep pan, cover it with water, stir it well together, and let it stand twelve hours; pour that water off as clear as you can, put on more water, and let it stand twelve more; then pour the water off clear, and strain the oatmeal through a coarse hair sieve, put it into a sauce-pan, set it over a slow fire, and stir it with a stick till it boils and becomes very thick▪ then pour it into soup-plates, and when cold, turn it out in plates, and eat it with what you please—either wine and sugar, ale and sugar, or cyder and sugar: some like it made hot with milk, and put a piece of butter in the middle, like a hasty-pudding. Take care you have plenty of water to your oatmeal and when you clear off the last water but one, put on as much fresh as will moisten it well: some let it stand forty-eight hours, some three days, shifting the water every twelve hours; but this you will do according as you like it for sweetness or tartness. Grits once cut, is better than oatmeal. Observe to stir it up well when you put in fresh water.

French Flummery.

Take a quart of cream, and one ounce of isinglass beat fine, put it into the cream, and boil it gently for a quarter of an hour, stirring it all the time; then take it off, sweeten it with fine powder sugar, put in a spoonful of rose and one of orange flower water, strain it through a sieve and stir it till half cold, then put it into a mould or bason; when cold, turn it on a dish, and garnish with currant jelly, or put stewed pears [...]ound it.

Hedge, Hog.

Take two pounds of sweet almonds, put them into boiling water, take off the skins, save about four ounce whole, put the rest in a mortar and beat them, with a little Cartary and orange flower water to keep them from oiling; then beat up the yolks of [Page] twelve eggs, the whites of six, put them in and beat them well; put in a pint of cream, sweeten with powder sugar to your palate, then put it into a stew-pan; put in half a pound of fresh butter melted, set it over a stove, and stir it till it is stiff enough to be made into the shape of a hedge-hog, then put it into a dish, and cut the rest of the almonds in long slips, and stick in, to represent the bristles of a hedge hog. Boil a pint of cream, sweeten it with sugar, beat up the yolks of four eggs, the whites of two, mix them with the cream, set it over the fire, and stir it one way till it is thick, then pour it round the hedge-hog; let it stand till it is cold. Garnish the dish with currant jelly, and serve it up; or put a rich calf's foot jelly, made clear and good, instead of the cream, &c.

Eggs and Bacon in Flummery.

Take a quart of new milk and put into a stew-pan, with two ounces of isinglass; boil it gently till the isinglass is dissolved, sweeten it with sugar, and strain it through a sieve; colour a quarter of a pint red with cochineal; have a tin mould about four inches long, two broad, and one deep, put a little of the red at the bottom, and let it be cold, then put on some white, then red, and treble the thickness of white at the top, always observing to let one be cold before you put on the other, and that only blood-warm; then take five tea-cups and fill them half full with white flummery, and let all stand till the next morning: turn them out, and cut that of the tin moulds in thin slices, and lay in your dish; then turn them out of the cups, and put over the other, cut a hole out of the tops, and lay in half a preserved aprieot, to make it look like the yolk of an egg. Garnish the dish with currant jelly, calf's foot jelly, or flowers, as you fancy.

Fairy Butter.

Take the yolks of two hard eggs, and beat them fine in a marble mortar, with a large spoonful of [Page] orange flower water, and one of fine powder sugar; beat it till it is a fine paste, then mix it up with as much fresh butter out of the churn, and force through a strainer full of small holes into a plate or small dish, as an ornament for supper.

Orange butter.

Take and beat the yolks of ten eggs very well, put them into a stew-pan, with half a pint of Rhenish, six ounces of powder sugar, and the juice of three China oranges, set them over a gentle fire, and stir them one way till thick; when you take it off, stir in a piece of butter as big as a walnut, then put it into a dish, and when cold serve it up.

CHAP. XXI.
JELLIES AND SYLLABUBS.

Hartshorn Jelly.

TAKE half a pound of hartshorn shavings, put them into a sauce-pan with three quarts of water, a lemon-peel, and a stick of cinnamon, boil it gently till it is a strong jelly, which you may know by taking a little out in a spoon, and let it cool; then strain it through a fine sieve into a clean stew-pan, put in a pint of Rhenish wine, sweeten it with loaf sugar to your palate, squeeze the juice of four lemons, or two lemons and two Seville oranges, strain the juice to keep out the seeds, and put in with a little saffron, boil it up, beat up the whites of eight eggs to a high froth, mix them well in the jelly, and boil it up for five minutes; then take it off the fire, cover it over, and let it stand five minutes; have ready a swan-skin jelly-bag hung in a frame, put a bowl under, [Page] and pour your jelly in gently, and as it runs pour it in again till it is as bright as you want it; when it is clear and bright, with a clean silver spoon fill your glasses. Always be sure to put your sugar and lemon in, to make it palatable, before you put your eggs in; for by putting sugar and lemon in afterwards you will prevent its being clear.

Calf's Feet Jelly.

Take two calf's feet, and take out the large bone, cut them in small pieces, put them into a sauce-pan with three quarts of water, a little lemon-peel, a stick of cinnamon, and boil them gently till it is reduced to a quart; be careful in trying with a spoon that it is strong enough; strain it off, and let it settle for half an hour, then skim it very clean, and pour it from the settlings into a stew-pan; put in half a pint of mountain or Lisbon wine, sweeten it to your taste with loaf sugar, squeeze four lemons, or two lemons and two Seville oranges, strain the juice to keep out the seeds, and put in the lemon-peel, and a very little saffron, boil it up a few minutes, then beat up the whites of eight eggs to a high froth, and mix them well together with the jelly, then boil it up for five minutes; have your bag ready with a bowl under it, pour your jelly gently in that it may run pretty fast through at the first, and as it runs pour it in again for several times, till it is as clear as you would have it; when it is all run off, with a silver spoon fill your glasses.

Note. You may make any large quantity by observing the same rules.

Jelly for Moulds, &c.

As this jelly requires to be a great deal stronger than for glasses, it will of course be necessary to have stronger things to make it with. You must take two calf's feet, and one neat's foot, take out the large bones, and cut them in small pieces; if you do not like the neat's foot, use two ounces of isinglass in its [Page] stead; put it into a large sauce-pan or put, with a gallon of water, a lemon-peel cut thin, and a stick of cinnamon; boil it gently till it is reduced to three pints or less, as it boils skim it well, try it with a spoon as before directed, and if you find it strong enough, strain it off, and let it settle half an hour, then skim the top, and pour it from the settlings into a stew-pan, put in half a pint of white wine, sweeten it with loaf sugar, squeeze six lemons, strain the juice to keep out the seeds, and put in with a little lemon-peel; if you want it quite clean and bright, don't put in any saffron; if you want it an amber colour, put in a little saffron; if a very high colour, bruise a little cochineal and put in; boil it up for ten minutes; beat the whites of ten eggs up to a high froth, mix them with the jelly well together, and boil it up for ten minutes; then take it off the fire, cover it, and let it stand for ten minutes; have your bag ready with a bowl under, pour your jelly in gently, and as it runs through pour it into the bag again, till it is as bright as you want it; when it is all run through, fill your moulds, and let it stand till it is cold, then loosen the sides with your singers, dip the mould into warm water, and turn it out on your dish. Garnish with broken jelly, or flowers, or as your fancy leads you.

Savory Jelly.

Cut six thin rashers of lean ham, and put at the bottom of a soup pot; cut the shank-end of a knuckle of veal, with a pound of lean veal, in slices, put them in with half a pint of water, six blades of mace, a few cloves, a carrot cut in slices, cover the pot close, set it over a slow fire and sweat it gently for fifteen minutes, then pour in a gallon of boiling water, and as it boils up skim it well; put in a spoonful of salt, and stew it gently for six hours, then try with a spoon whether it is a strong jelly, if it is not, stew it till it is so; strain it off into a pan, and let it settle; then skim the fat clean off, pour it clean from the [Page] settlings into a stew-pan, and put in a gill of elder or common vinegar; beat up the whites of twelve eggs to a high froth, and mix with the jelly well together. If you want it a high colour, bruise a little cochineal and put in, boil it up till the eggs become a fine white froth at the top, then take it off the fire, cover it up, and let it stand ten minutes: have your bag ready, and pour it in gently, and as it runs put it into the bag again, till it is quite clear; when all is run through, it will be sit to fill your moulds, &c.

Orange Jelly.

Take half a pound of hartshorn shavings, or four ounces of isinglass, put it into two quarts of spring water, and boil it gently till it is a strong jelly; take the juice of three Seville oranges, three lemons, and six China oranges, the rind of one Seville orange, and one lemon pared very thin; put them to your jelly, sweeten with loaf sugar to your taste, beat up the whites of eight eggs to a froth, and mix them well in, and boil it for ten minutes; then run it through a jelly-bag till it is very clear; put it into your moulds, and let it stand till it is thoroughly cold, then dip your moulds in warm water, and turn them out into a China dish, or flat dish. Garnish with flowers.

Ribband Jelly.

Take four calf's feet, take out the great bones, cut them small, put them into a pot with six quarts of water, four ounces of isinglass, a little lemon-peel, a stick of cinnamon; boil it gently for six hours skim it well, and try a little in a spoon to see if it be strong enough, if it is, strain it off into a clean pan, and let it settle one hour; then if there is any fat at the top skim it off, and pour it from the settlings into a stew-pan; put in a pint of white wine, the juice of six lemons, and sweeten it with sugar to your taste; beat up the whites of ten eggs, stir them well in, and boil it up gently for ten minutes; then take it off the fire, and let it stand five minutes; have your bag ready, [Page] and run it through till it is as clear as you would have it; then colour some of it red with cochineal, green with spinach juice, yellow with saffron, blue with the syrup of violets, white with thick cream, and some of its own colour; then put your jelly into high glasses. Run every colour a quarter of an inch thick; one colour must be thoroughly cold before you put on the other, and that you put on must be but blood-warm, for fear it mix together. Or you may take a thin mould six inches long, one broad, and one deep, fill it in the same manner, and when cold turn it out, cut it with a thin knife in slices, and lay it on a dish. Garnish as you please; or cut it out in shapes, to garnish other jellies.

Green Mellon in Jelly.

Make a pint of blanc'mange, and colour it of a light green with the juice of spinach, put it into a melon mould, and when it is cold turn it out; have a deep mould with a little jelly at the bottom quite cold, put your melon in, and put in some jelly blood-warm, let it be cold, then fill up your mould with more blood-warm jelly, let it stand all night, and the next morning turn it into a dish, and garnish it with sweetmeats, flowers, or any thing you fancy.

Fruit in Jelly.

Have a plain mould, either long or round, about three inches deep; have some mould jelly made as directed in this chapter, and put some at the bottom of the mould about a quarter of an inch thick, let it be cold, then put in ripe peaches, grapes, or any sort of ripe fruit or preserved fruit, or China oranges cut in quarters, or in any shape you fancy; put in a little jelly blood-warm, and let it stand till it is cold to fasten your fruit in its place, otherwise it will rise up; then fill up your mould with blood-warm jelly, let it stand till it is thoroughly cold, then turn it into a dish, and garnish it to your fancy.

These jellies look extremely well in a dish, if you [Page] mind that you put in your fruit neatly, to shew it to advantage, and your jelly very clean, as a little experience will teach you.

Gold Fish in Jelly.

Fill two or three small fish-moulds with very strong blanc'mange, when cold turn them out, and gild the fish with leaf-gold, let them stand for one hour, that the gold may dry on; have a mould, put a little mould jelly at the bottom, when it is cold lay the gold fish in back downwards, put in some jelly blood-warm to fasten them to their places; when it is cold fill the moulds up with blood-warm jelly, and let them stand all night; the next day turn them out into a dish, and garnish with flowers, or any thing you fancy.

Hen's Nest in Jelly.

If you have got egg-moulds fill them with blanc'mange, and when cold turn them out; but if you have no moulds, break holes in the thick ends of six or seven eggs, and pour out the yolks and whites as clean as you can, set them on one end in salt, and with a funnel fill them with strong blanc'mange; when they are cold, very carefully break the shells and take them off the blanc'mange, put a little jelly at the bottom of a round mould, or China bowl, lay the eggs on it, and put in a little jelly to six them to their places; when cold put in more jelly blood-warm, till it is even with the eggs; then lay some vermicelli over and round them, to make it look like a nest; when it is cold, fill the mould or China bowl quite full, set it aside all night, the next day turn it out into a dish, and garnish with sweetmeats, flowers, or any thing you fancy.

Red Currant Jelly.

Gather your currants when they are full ripe, on a dry day, and to every gallon of red put a quart of white, put them into a preserving-pan, cover them close, and set them over a slow fire, stirring them, to [Page] prevent their burning at the bottom, till the juice is out; or put them into an earthen-pan, tie a paper over them, and set them in a warm oven for one hour; then put them into a flannel bag, and when the juice is all run out, to every pint put a pound of loaf sugar broke into small pieces, put it over a gentle fire, and stir it till the sugar is melted, or it will burn at the bottom; skim it well, and boil it gently half and hour; while it is hot put it into your gallipots or glasses; when it is cold put brandy papers over it, and tie another paper over that. Put them in a cool dry place.

Black Currant Jelly.

Gather your currants as before, and strip them off the stalks, put them in an earthen pan, and to every ten quarts put in a quart of spring water; tie a paper over them, and set them in the oven for two hours, then squeeze out the juice through a fine cloth, and to every pint of juice put a pound of loaf sugar broke to pieces, stir it and boil it gently for half an hour, skim it well all the time. While it is hot put it into gallipots; put brandy papers over it, and tie another paper over that, and keep it in a cool dry place.

Turkey in Jelly.

Take a nice hen-turkey, bone it, and cut off the pinions; make a forcemeat with the flesh of a fowl, some lean veal, beef marrow, beef suet, sweet herbs, bread crumbs, &c. fill your turkey, and truss it as for boiling, put it into a sauce-pan, cover it with veal broth, and put in a bundle of sweet herbs, a little cloves, mace, and all-spice; boil it gently till it is tender, then take it out, and let it be cold; put it on the dish on which you intend to send it to table, have ready a good savory jelly, made as directed in the beginning of this chapter, and pour over it blood-warm. Garnish with flowers and curled parsley, and stick a sprig of myrtle in the breast; or colour some jelly red and yellow, and ornament the breast with it to your fancy.

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Chicken in Jelly.

Treat a chicken the same as a turkey; have an ovel mould, put in some savory jelly a quarter of an inch thick; when it is cold put the chicken in, breast downwards, put in a little jelly blood-warm, to fasten it, and when it is cold fill your mould with blood-warm jelly, let it stand all night, and the next day turn it into a dish. Garnish it with slices of lemon, or Seville orange.

Note. You may put patridges, or any small birds, into savory jelly, but you need not bone them.

Lobster or Crayfish in Jelly.

Boil two small lobsters, or about a dozen crayfish, put a little savory jelly at the bottom of your mould, and when it is cold put in your lobsters or crayfish, backs downward; put in a little blood-warm jelly to fasten them to their places, and when cold fill your moulds with blood-warm jelly, let them stand all night, and the next day turn them into a dish. Garnish with slices of notched lemon or Seville orange.

Whipt Syllabubs.

Take a quart of good sweet cream, put it into a broad earthen pan, with a jill of sack, the juice of a lemon or Seville orange, and the rind of a lemon cut thin; make it pretty sweet with fine powder sugar, whip it with a whisk, and as the froth rises take it off, and put it on a sieve to drain for half an hour: then half-fill your glasses with some red, and some white wine, and with a spoon put on your syllabub as high as you can: or you may half-fill your glasses with different coloured jelly. Never make it long before you want to send it to table.

Solid Syllabubs.

To a quart of rich cream put in a pint of mountain wine, the juice of two lemons, the rind of one grated, sweeten it with powder sugar to your taste, whip it [Page] well, take off the froth as it rises, lay it on a hair sieve, and put it in a cool place till next day; then fill your glasses better then half-full with the thin, and with a spoon put on the froth as high as you can.—it will keep several days, and look clear at the bottom.

Everlasting Syllabubs.

Take three pints of good thick cream, put into an earthen pan, with half a pint of Rhenish, half a pint of sack, the juice of two large Seville oranges, the rind of three lemons grated, and a pound of double-refined sugar pounded and sifted; put in a spoonful of orange flower water, beat it well together with a whisk for half an hour, then with a spoon take off the froth, and lay it on a sieve to drain, and then fill your glasses. This will keep a week.

The best way to whip syllabubs, is to have a fine large chocolate mill, which you must keep on purpose, and a large deep bowl or pan to mill them in; it is both quicker done, and the froth stronger. For the thin that is left at the bottom, have ready some calve's feet jelly, made thus; cut two calve's feet into small pieces, put them into a sauce pan, with two quarts of water, and a little lemon-peel, boil it gently till reduced to a pint and a half, then strain it off, and let it stand half an hour to settle; skim it well, pour it into a stew-pan from the settlings, beat up the whites of six eggs and put in, boil it gently for ten minutes, then run it through a stannel bag, and mix it with the clear that you saved from the syllabubs; sweeten it to your taste, give it a boil, then pour it into your moulds, and when cold turn it into a dish. Garnish with flowers.

Syllabub under the Cow.

Put a bottle of either red or white wine, ale or cyder, into a China bowl, sweeten it with sugar, and grate in some nutmeg, then hold it under the cow, and milk into it till it has a fine froth at the top; [Page] strew over it a handful of currants, clean washed and picked, and plumped before the fire.

You may make this syllabub at home, only have new milk. Make it as hot as milk from the cow, and out of a tea-pot, or any such thing, pour it in, holding your hand very high.

Lemon Syllabubs.

Take a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar in one piece, and rub it on the rind of two lemons till you have got all the essence out of them, then put the sugar into a pint of cream and a gill of mountain wine, squeeze in the juice of both the lemons, and let it stand for two hours, then whip it with a whisk, or mill it with a chocholate mill, and as the froth rises take it off, and put it on a sieve to drain; let it stand all night, then put the clear into the glasses, and with a spoon put on the froth as high as you can.

Trifle.

Take a quart of thick cream, and put into it a gill of white wine, the juice of a lemon or Seville orange, grate in the rind of a lemon, sweeten it with powder sugar, whip it with a whisk, or mill it with a chocolate mill, and as the froth rises take it off, and put it on a hair sieve to drain; put a quarter of a pound of macaroon cakes, and ratasia drops, into a deep dish, just wet them with sweet wine; boil a pint of milk or cream, sweeten it with sugar, beat up the yolks of four eggs and mix with it, put it over a slow fire, and stir it till it is thick, then put it on the cakes, and when cold put the froth on as high as you can, and strew it over with nonpareils of different colours:(these are bought at the confectioners.) Garnish it with flowers, or currant jelly, sweetmeats, &c.

Floating Island.

Take a deep dish, according to the size and quantity you would make; but a pretty deep glass is the best, which set on a China dish. First, take a [Page] quart of the thickest cream you can get, make it pretty sweet with fine sugar, pour in a gill of sack, grate in the yellow rind of a lemon, and mill the cream till it is of a thick froth, then carefully pour the thin from the froth into your dish or glass; take a French roll, or as many as you want, cut it as thin as you can, put a layer of that on the cream as lightly as possible, then a layer of currant jelly, after that a very thin layer of roll, then hartshorn jelly, and then French roll, and over that whip the froth you saved off the cream, very well milled up, and put on the top as high as you can heap it; and as for the rim of the dish, set it round with fruit, or sweetmeats, according to your fancy.

This looks very pretty in the middle of a table, with candles round it. You may make it of as many different colours as you fancy, according to what jellies, jams, or sweetmeats you have; or at the bottom of your dish you may put the thickest cream you can get, but that as you fancy.

CHAP. XXII.
Directions for those that attend the Sick.

Mutton Broth

TAKE a pound of a loin of mutton, take off the fat, put to it one quart of water, let it boil, and skim it well; then put in a good piece of upper-crust of bread, and one large blade of mace, cover it close, and let it boil slowly an hour; do not stir it but pour the broth clear off. Season it with a little salt, and the mutton will be sit to eat. If you boil turnips, do not boil them in the broth, but by themselves in another sauce-pan.

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To boil a Scrag of Veal.

Set on the scrag in a clean sauce-pan: to each pound of veal put a quart of water, skim it very clean, then put in a good piece of upper-crust, a blade of mace to each pound, and a little parsley tied with thread. Cover it close; then let it boil very softly two hours, and both broth and meat will be sit to eat.

Beef or Mutton Broth, for very weak People who take but little Nourishment.

Take a pound of beef or mutton, or both together: to a pound put two quarts of water; first skin the meat and take off the fat, then cut it into little pieces, and boil it till it comes to a quarter of a pint. Season it with a very little corn of salt, skim off all the fat. Give a spoonful of this broth at a time to very weak people; or half a spoonful may do: to some a tea spoonful at a time; and to others a tea-cupful. There is greater nourishment from this than any thing else.

Beef Drink, which is ordered for weak People.

Take a pound of lean beef; then take off all the fat and skin, cut it into pieces, put it into a gallon of water, with the under crust of a penny loaf, and a very little salt; let it boil till it comes to two quarts, then strain it off, and it is a very hearty drink.

Beef Tea.

Take a pound of lean beef, and cut it very fine, pour a pint of boiling water over it, and put it on the fire to raise the scum; skim it clean, strain it off and let it settle; pour it clear from the settlings, and then it is sit for use.

Pork Broth.

Take two pounds of young pork; then take off the skin and sat, boil it in a gallon of water, with a turnip, and a very little corn of salt, let it boil till it [Page] comes to two quarts, strain it off, and let it stand till cold. Take off the fat then, leaving the settlings at the bottom of the pan, and drink half a pint in the morning fasting, an hour before breakfast, and at noon, if the stomach will beat it.

To boil a Chicken.

Let your sauce-pan be very clean and nice; when the water boils put in your chicken, which must be very nicely pickt and clean, and laid in cold water a quarter of an hour before it is boiled, then take it out of the water boiling, and lay it in a pewter dish. Save all the liquor that runs from it in the dish, cut up your chicken all in joints in the dish, then bruise the liver very fine, add a little boiled parsley chopped fine, a very little salt, and a little grated nutmeg; mix it all well together with two spoonsful of the liquor of the fowl, and pour it into the dish with the rest of the liquor in the dish; if there is not liquor enough, take two or three spoonsful of the liquor it was boiled in, clap another dish over it. Then set it over a chafing dish of hot coals five or six minutes, and carry it to table hot with the cover on. This is better than butter, and lighter for the stomach, though some chuse it only with the liquor, and no parsley, not liver, and that is according to different palates: it is for a very weak person. Take off the skin of the chicken before you set it on the chafing-dish. If you roast it, make nothing but bread-sauce, and that is lighter than any sauce you can make for a weak stomach,

Thus you may dress a rabbit; only bruise but a little piece of the liver.

To boil Pigeons.

Let your pigeons be clean washed, drawn, and skinned, boil them in milk and water for ten minutes, and pour over them sauce made thus:—take the liver par-boiled, and bruise it fine, with as much parsley boiled and chopped fine. Melt some butter, [Page] mix a little with the liver and parsley first, then mix all together and pour over the pigeons.

To boil a Partridge, or any other Wild Fowl.

When your water boils put in your partridge, let it boil ten minutes; then take it up into a pewter-plate, and cut it in two, laying the inside next the plate, and have ready some bread sauce made thus: take the crumb of a halfpenny roll, or thereabouts, and boil it in half a pint of water, with a blade of mace; let it boil two or three minutes, pour away most of the water, then beat it up with a little piece of nice butter, a little salt, and pour it over the partridge; clap a cover over it, then set it over a chafing-dish of coals four or five minutes, and send it away hot, covered close.

Thus you may dress any sort of wild fowl, only boiling it more or less according to the bigness. Ducks, take off the skins before you pour the bread-sauce over them; and if you roast them, lay bread-sauce under them. It is lighter than gravy for weak stomachs.

To boil a Plaice, or Flounder.

Let your water boil, throw some salt in, then put in your fish; boil it till you think it is enough, and take it out of the water in a slice to drain. Take two spoonsful of the liquor, with a little salt, a little grated nutmeg; then beat up the yolk of an egg very well with the liquor, and stir in the egg, beat it well together; with a knife carefully slice away all the little bones round the fish, pour the sauce over it; then set it over a chafing dish of coals for a minute, and send it hot away. Or in the room of this sauce, add melted butter in a cup.

To mince Veal, or Chicken, for the sick or weak People.

Mince a chicken, or some veal, very fine; take off [Page] the skin, just boil as much water as will moisten it, and no more, with a very little salt; grate a very little nutmeg, then throw a very little flour over it, and when the water boils put in the meat; keep shaking it over the fire a minute, then have ready two or three thin sippets, roasted nice and brown, laid in the plate, and pour the mince-meat over it.

To pull a Chicken for the sick.

You must take as much cold chicken as you think proper; take off the skin and pull the meat into little bits as thick as a quill, then take the bones, boil them with a little salt till they are good, strain it; then take a spoonful of the liquor, a spoonful of milk, a little bit of butter as big as a large walnut rolled in flour, a little chopped parsley, as much as will lie on a sixpence, and a little salt, if wanted; this will be enough for half a small chicken; put all together into the sauce-pan, then keep shaking it till it is thick, and pour it into a hot plate.

Chicken Broth.

You must take an old cock, or large fowl, flay it, then pick off all the fat, and break it all to pieces with a rolling pin, put it into two quarts of water, with a good crust of bread, and a blade of mace; let it boil softly, till it is as good as you would have it. If you do it as it should be done, it will take five or six hours in doing. Pour it off, then put a quart more of boiling water, and cover it close; let it boil softly till it is good, and strain it off. Season with a very little salt. When you boil a chicken, save the liquor, and when the meat is eat, take the bones, then break them and put to the liquor you boiled the chicken in, with a blade of mace, and a crust of bread, let it boil till it is good, and strain it off.

Chicken Water.

Take a cock, or large fowl, flay it, then bruise [Page] it with a hammer, and put it into a gallon of water, with a crust of bread. Let it boil half away, and strain it off.

White Caudle.

You must take two quarts of water, mix in four spoonsful of oatmeal, a blade or two of mace, a piece of lemon-peel, let it boil, and keep stirring it often; let it boil about a quarter of an hour, and take care it does not boil over; then strain it through a coarse sieve. When you use it sweeten it to your palate. Grate in a little nutmeg, and what wine is proper; and if it is not fit for a sick person, squeeze in the juice of a lemon.

Brown Caudle.

Boil the gruel as above, with six spoonsful of oatmeal, and strain it, then add a quart of good ale, not bitter; boil it, then sweeten it to your palate, and add half a pint of white wine. When you do not put in white wine, let it be half ale.

Water Gruel.

You must take a pint of water, and a large spoonful of oatmeal, then stir it together, and let it boil up three or four times, stirring it often; do not let it boil over; then strain it through a sieve, salt it to your palate, put in a good piece of fresh butter, brew it with a spoon till the butter is all melted, then it will be fine and smooth, and very good. Some love a little pepper in it.

Panada.

You must take a quart of water in a nice clean sauce-pan a blade of mace, a large piece of crumb of bread, let it boil two minutes, then take out the bread and bruise it in a bason very fine, mix as much water as will make it as thick as you would have it, the rest pour away, and sweeten it to your palate; put in a piece of butter as big as a walnut; do not put in any wine, it spoils i [...]; you may grate in a little nutmeg. This is hearty and good diet for sick people.

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To boil Sago.

Put a large spoonful of sago into three quarters of a pint of water, stir it and boil it softly till it is as thick as you would have it, then put in wine and sugar, with a little nutmeg to your palate.

To boil Salop.

It is a hard stone ground to powder, and generally sold for one shilling an ounce. Take a large tea-spoonful of the powder and put it in a pint of boiling water, keep stirring it till it is like a fine jelly, then put wine and sugar to your palate, and lemon if it will agree.

Isinglass Jelly.

Take a quart of water, one ounce of isinglass, half an ounce of cloves; boil them to a pint, then strain it upon a pound of loaf sugar, and when cold sweeten your tea with it. You may make the jelly as above, and leave out the cloves; sweeten to your palate, and add a little wine. All other jellies you have in another chapter.

The Pectoral Drink.

Take a gallon of water, and half a pound of pearl-barley, boil it with a quarter of a pound of figs split, a pennyworth of liquorice sliced to pieces, a quarter of a pound of raisins-of-the-sun stoned; boil all together till half is wasted, then strain it off. This is ordered in the measles and several other disorders, for a drink.

Buttered Water, or what the Germans call Egg-soup, who are very fond of it for Supper.

Take a pint of water, beat up the yolk of an egg with the water, put in a piece of butter as big as a small walnut, two or three knobs of sugar, and keep stirring it all the time it is on the fire; when it begins to boil, brew it between the sauce-pan and a mug till it is smooth, and has a great froth, then it is fit [Page] to drink. This is ordered in a cold, or where egg will agree with the stomach.

Seed Water.

Take a spoonful of coriander seed, half a spoonful or carraway seed, bruised and boiled in a pint of water, then strain it, and bruise it with the yolk of an egg; mix it with sack and double-refined sugar, according to your palate.

Bread Soup, for the Sick.

Take a quart of water, set it on the fire in a clean sauce-pan, and as much dry crust of bread cut to pieces as the top of a penny loaf, (the drier the better) a bit of butter as big as a walnut; let it boil, then beat it with a spoon, and keep boiling it till the bread and water is well mixed; then season it with a very little salt, and it is a pretty thing for a weak stomach.

Artificial Asses milk.

Take two ounces of pearl barley, two spoonsful of hartshorn shavings, one ounce of Eringo root, one ounce of China root, one ounce of preserved ginger, eighteen snails bruised with the shells, to be boiled in three quarts of water till it comes to three pints; then boil a pint of new milk, mix it with the rest, and put in two ounces of balsam of Tolu. Take half a pint in the morning, and half a pint at night.

Cows Milk next to Asses Milk, done thus.

Take a quart of milk, set it in a pan over-night, the next morning take off all the cream and boil it, and set it in the pan again till night; then skim it again, boil it, set it in the pan again, and the next morning skim it. Warm it blood-warm, and drink it as you do asses milk; it is very near as good; and with some consumptive people it is better.

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A good Drink.

Boil a quart of milk and a quart of water with the top-crust of a penny loaf, and one blade of mace, a quarter of an hour very softly, then pour it off; and when you drink it let it be warm.

Barley Water.

Put a quarter of a pound of pearl-barley into two quarts of water, let it boil, skim it very clean, boil half away, and strain it off. Sweeten to your palate, but not too sweet, and put in two spoonsful of white wine. Drink it luke warm.

Sage Tea.

Take a little sage, a little balm, put it into a pan, slice a lemon, peel and all, a few knobs of sugar, one glass of white wine; pour on these two or three quarts of boiling water; cover it, and drink when thirsty. When you think it strong enough of the herbs take them out, otherwise it will make it bitter.

For a Child.

A little sage, balm, rue, mint, and pennyroyal; pour boiling water on, and sweeten to your palate.—Syrup of cloves, &c. and black cherry water, you have in the Chapter of Preserves.

Liquor for a child that has the Thrush.

Take half a pint of spring water, a knob of double-refined sugar, a very little bit of allum; beat it well together with the yolk of an egg; then beat in a large spoonful of the juice of sage, tie a rag to the end of the stick, dip it in this liquor, and often clean the mouth. Give the child over-night one drop of laudanum, and the next day proper physic washing the mouth often with the liquor.

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To boil Comfrey Roots.

Take a pound of comfrey roots, scrape them clean, cut them into little pieces, and put them into three pints of water, let them boil till there is about a pint; then strain it, and when it is cold put it into a sauce-pan; if there is any settling at the bottom throw it away; mix it with sugar to your palate, half a pint of mountain wine, and the juice of a lemon; let it boil, then pour it into a clean earthen-pot, and set it by for use▪ Some boil it in milk; and it is very good where it will agree, and is reckoned a very great strengthener.

The Knuckle Broth.

Take twelve shank-ends of legs of mutton, break them well, and soke them in cold spring water for an hour; then take a small brush and scour them clean with warm water and salt; then put them in two quarts of spring water, and let them simmer till reduced to one quart; when they have been on one hour, put in one ounce of hartshorn shavings, and the bottom of a halfpenny-roll; be careful to take the scum off as it rises; when done, strain it off, and if any fat remains, take it off with a knife when cold. Drink a quarter of a pint warm when you go to bed, and one hour before you rise. It is a certain restorative at the beginning of a decline, or when any weakness is the complaint.

N. B. If it is made right, it is the colour of calf's foot jelly, and is strong enough to bear a spoon upright.—From the College of Physicians, London.

A Medicine for a Disorder in the Bowels.

Take an ounce of beef-suet, half a pint of milk, and half a pint of water, mix them together with a table spoonful of wheat flour, put it over the fire ten minutes, and keep it stirring all the time; and take a coffee-cup full two or three times a-day.

CHAP. XXIII.
Directions for Seafaring Men.

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Catchup to keep twenty Years.

TAKE a gallon of strong stale beer, one pound of anchovies washed from the pickle, a pound of shallots peeled, an ounce of mace, half an ounce of cloves, a quarter of an ounce of whole pepper, three or four large races of ginger, two quarts of the large mushroom slaps rubbed to pieces; cover all this close, and let it simmer till it is half wasted, then strain it through a flannel bag; let it stand till it is quite cold, then bottle it. You may carry it to the Indies. A spoonful of this to a pound of fresh butter melted, makes a fine fish sauce: or in the room of gravy-sauce. The stronger and staler the beer is, the better the catchup will be.

Fish sauce to keep the whole Year.

You must take twenty-four anchovies, chop them, bones and all, put to them ten shallots cut small, a handful of scraped horse-raddish, a quarter of an ounce of mace, a quart of white wine, a pint of water, one lemon cut into slices, half a pint of anchovy liquor, a pint of red wine, twelve cloves, twelve pepper-corns; boil them together till it comes to a quart, strain it off, cover it close, and keep it in a dry cold place. Two spoonsful will be sufficient for a pound of butter.

It is a pretty sauce either for boiled sowl, veal, &c. or in the room of gravy, lowering it with hot water, and thickening it with a piece of butter rolled in flour.

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To Pot Dripping, to fry Fish, Meat, Fritters, &c.

Take six pounds of good beef dripping, boil it in soft water, strain it into a pan, let it stand till cold; then take off the hard fat, and scrape off the gravy which sticks to the inside: thus do eight times. When it is cold and hard take it off clean from the water, put it into a large sauce-pan with six bay leaves, twelve cloves, half a pound of salt, and a quarter of a pound of whole pepper: let the fat be all melted, and just hot; let it stand till it is hot enough to strain through a sieve into the pot, and stand till it is quite cold, then cover it up. Thus you may do what quantity you please. The best way to keep any sort of dripping, is to turn the pot up-side down, and then no rats can get at it. If it will keep on ship-board, it will make as fine puff-paste crust as any butter can do; or crust for puddings, &c.

To pickle Mushrooms for the Sea.

Wash them clean with a piece of flannel in salt and water, put them into a sauce-pan, and throw a little salt over them; let them boil up three times in their own liquor, then throw them into a sieve to drain, and spread them on a clean cloth let them lie till cold, then put them in wide-mouthed bottles; put in with them a good deal of whole mace, a little nutmeg sliced, and a few cloves; boil the sugar-vinegar (of your own making) with a good deal of whole pepper, some rates of ginger, and two or three bay leaves let it boil a few minutes, then strain it; when it is cold pour it on, and fill the bottle with mutton fat fried; cork them, lie a bladder, then a leather over them; keep it down close, and in as cool a place as possible. As to all other pickles, you have them in the Chapter of Pickles.

Mushroom Powder.

Take half a peck of fine large thick mushrooms, wash them clean from grit and dirt with a flannel [Page] rag, scrape out the inside, cut out all the worms, put them into a kettle over the fire without any water, two large onions stuck with cloves, a large handful of salt, a quarter of an ounce of mace, two tea-spoonsful of beaten pepper; let them simmer till the liquor is boiled away, take great care they do not burn, then lay them on sieves to dry in the sun; or in tin plates, and set them in a slack oven all night to dry, till they will beat to powder: press the powder down hard in a pot, and keep it for use. You may put what quantity you please for the sauce.

To keep Mushrooms without Pickle.

Take large mushrooms, peel them, scrape out the inside, put them into a sauce-pan, throw a little salt over them, and let them boil in their own liquor, then throw them into a sieve to drain; then lay them on tin plates, and set them in a cool oven. Repeat it often till they are perfectly dry. Put them into a clean stone jar, tie them down tight, and keep them in a dry place. They eat deliciously, and look as well as truffles.

To keep Artichoke Bottoms dry.

Boil them just so as you can pull off the leaves and the choke, cut them from the stalks, lay them on tin plates, set them in a very cool oven, and repeat it till they are quite dry; then put them in a paper bag, tie them close, and hang them up in a dry place. Keep them in a dry place; and when you use them, lay them in warm water till they are tender. Shift the water two or three times. They are fine in almost all sauces, cut to little pieces, and put in just before your sauce is enough.

To fry Artichoke Bottoms.

Lay them in water as above, then have ready some butter hot in the pan, flour the bottoms, and fry them. Lay them in your dish, and pour melted butter over them.

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To ragou Artichoke Bottoms.

Take twelve bottoms, soften them in warm water, as in the foregoing receipt. Take half a pint of water; a piece of the strong soup as big as a small walnut, half a spoonful of catchup, five or six of the dried mushrooms, a tea-spoonful of mushroom powder; set it on the fire, shake all together, and let it boil softly two or three minutes; let the last water you put to the bottoms boil, take them out hot, lay them in your dish, pour the sauce over them, and send them to table hot.

To dress Fish.

As to drying fish;—first wash it very clean, then dry it well, and flour it; take some of the beef dripping, make it boil in the stew pan, then throw in your fish, and fry it of a fine light brown; lay it on the bottom of a sieve or coarse cloth to drain, and make sauce according to your fancy.

To bake Fish.

Butter the pan, lay in the fish, throw a little salt over it, and flour; put a very little water in the dish, an onion, and a bundle of sweet herbs; stick some little bits of butter, or the fine dripping, on the fish. Let it be baked of a fine light brown. When enough, lay it on a dish before the fire, and skim off all the fat in the pan; strain the liquor, and mix it up either with the fish sauce, or strong soup, or the catchup.

A Gravy Soup.

Only boil soft water, and put as much of the strong soup to it as will make it to your palate. Let it boil, and if it wants salt, you must season it. The receipts for the soups you have in the Chapter for Soups.

Peas Soup.

Get a quart of peas, boil them in two gallons of water till they are tender; then have ready a piece [Page] of salt pork or beef, which has been lain in water the night before, put it into the pot, with two large onions peeled, a bundle of sweet herbs, cellery if you have it, half a quarter of an ounce of whole pepper; let it boil till the meat is enough, then take it up, and if the soup is not enough, let it boil till the soup is good; then strain it, set it on again to boil, and rub in a good deal of dry mint. Keep the meat hot. When the soup is ready, put in the meat again for a few minutes, and let it boil; then serve it away. If you add a piece of the portable soup it will be very good, The onion soup you have in the Lent Chapter.

Pork Pudding, or Beef.

Make a good crust with the dripping, or mutton-suet, if you have it, shred fine. Make a thick crust;—take a piece of salt pork or beef, which has been twenty-four hours in soft water, season it with a little pepper, put it into the crust, roll it up close, tie it in a cloth and boil it. If about four or five pounds, boil it five hours.

And when you kill mutton, make a pudding the same way; only cut the steaks thin, season them with pepper and salt, and boil it three hours if large, or two hours if small, and so according to the size.

Apple pudding make with the same crust; only pare the apples, core them, and fill your pudding; if large it will take five hours boiling. When it is enough lay it in the dish, cut a hole in the top, and stir in butter and sugar, lay the piece on again, and send it to table.

A prune pudding eats fine, made the same way; only when the crust is ready, fill it with prunes, and sweeten it according to your fancy; close it up, and boil it two hours.

A Rice Pudding.

Take what rice you think proper, tie it loose in a cloth, and boil it an hour; then take it up and untie it, grate a good deal of nutmeg in, stir in a good [Page] piece of butter, and sweeten to your palate; tie it up close, boil it an hour more, then take it up and turn it into your dish. Melt butter, with a little sugar, and a little white wine, for sauce.

A Suet Pudding.

Get a pound of suet shred fine, a pound of flour, a pound of currants picked clean, half a pound of raisins stoned, two tea-spoonsful of beaten ginger, and a spoonful of tincture of saffron; mix all together with salt water very thick; then either boil or bake it.

A Liver Pudding boiled.

Get the liver of a sheep, when you kill one, and cut it as thin as you can, and chop it, mix it with as much suet shred fine, half as many crumbs of bread, or biscuit grated, season it with some sweet herbs shred fine, a little nutmeg grated, a little beaten pepper, and anchovy shred fine; mix all together, with a little salt, or the anchovy liquor, with a piece of butter; fill the crust, and close it. Boil it three hours.

Oatmeal Pudding.

Get a pint of oatmeal once cut, a pound of suet shred fine, a pound of currants, and half a pound of raisins stoned; mix all together, with a little salt, tie it in a cloth, leaving room for the swelling.

To bake an Oatmeal Pudding.

Boil a quart of water, season it with a little salt; when the water boils, stir in the oatmeal till it is so thick you cannot easily stir your spoon, then take it off the fire, stir in two spoonsful of brandy, or a gill of mountain, and sweeten it to your palate; grate in a little nutmeg, and stir in half a pound of currants clean washed and picked; then butter a pan, pour it in and bake it half an hour.

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A Rice Pudding boiled.

Boil a pound of rice just till it is tender, then take it up, untie it, stir in a good piece of butter, a little salt, and a good deal of beaten pepper; then tie it up tight again, boil it an hour longer, and it will eat fine. All other puddings you have in the Chapter of Puddings.

A Harrico of French Beans.

Take a pint of the seeds of French beans, which are ready dried for sowing, wash them clean, and put them into a two quart sauce-pan, fill it with water, and let it boil two hours: if the water wastes away too much, you must put in more boiling water to keep them boiling. In the mean time, take almost half a pound of nice fresh butter, put it into a clean stew-pan, and when it is all melted, and done making a noise have ready a pint bason heaped up with onions peeled and sliced thin, throw them into the pan, and fry them of a fine brown, stirring them about that they may be all alike; then pour off the clear water from the beans into a bason, and throw the beans all into the stew-pan; stir all together, and throw in a large tea-spoonful of beaten pepper, two heaped full of salt, and stir it all together for two or three minutes. You may make this dish of what thickness you think proper, (either to eat with a spoon, or otherways) with the liquor you poured off the beans. For a change, you may make it thin enough for soup; when it is of a proper thickness you like it, take it off the fire, and stir in a large spoonful of vinegar, and the yolks of two eggs, beat. The eggs may be left out, if disliked. Dish it up, and send it to table.

A Fowl Pie.

First make thick rich crust, over the dish with the paste, then take some very fine bacon, or cold boiled ham, slice it, and lay a layer all over; season it with a little pepper, then put in the fowl after it is picked, cleaned, and singed; shake a very little pepper [Page] and salt into the belly, put in a little water, cover it with ham seasoned with a little beaten pepper; put on the lid, and bake it two hours. When it comes out of the oven, take half a pint of water, boil it, and add to it as much of the strong soup as will make the gravy quite rich, pour it boiling hot into the pie, and lay on the lid again. Send it to table hot. Or lay a piece of beef or pork in soft water twenty-four hours, slice it in the room of the ham, and it will eat fine.

A Cheshire Pork Pie for Sea.

Take some salt pork that has been boiled, cut it into thin slices, an equal quantity of potatoes pared and sliced thin; make a good crust, cover the dish, lay a layer of meat, season it with a little pepper, and a layer of potatoes, then a layer of meat, and a layer of potatoes, and so on till your pie is full; season it with pepper; when it is full, lay some butter on the top, and fill your dish above half-full of soft water, close your pie up, and bake it in a gentle oven.

Sea Venison.

When you kill a sheep, keep stirring the blood all the time till it is cold, or at least as cold as it will be, that it may not congeal; then cut up the sheep, take one side, cut the leg like a haunch, cut off the shoulder and thigh, the neck and breast in two, sleep them all in the blood as long as the weather will permit you, then take out the haunch, and hang it out of the sun as long as you can to be sweet; and roast it as you do a haunch of venison. It will eat very fine, especially if the heat will give you leave to keep it long. Take off all the suet before you lay it in the blood; take the other joints and lay them in a large pan, pour over them a quart of red wine, and a quart of rape vinegar, lay the fat side of the meat downwards in the pan, (on a hollow tray is best) and pour the wine and vinegar over it, let it lie twelve hours; then take the neck, breast and loin out of the pickle, let the shoulder lie a week, if the heat will [Page] let you; rub it with bay-salt, salt-petre, and coarse sugar, of each a quarter of an ounce, one handful of common salt, and let it lay a week or ten days; bone the neck, breast, and loin, season them with pepper and salt to your palate, and make a pastry as you do of venison. Boil the bones for gravy to fill the pie when it comes out of the oven; and the shoulder boil fresh out of the pickle with a peas-pudding.

And when you cut up the sheep, take the heart, liver, and lights, boil them a quarter of an hour, then cut them small, and chop them very fine; season them with four large blades of mace, twelve cloves, and a large nutmeg, all beat to powder; chop a pound of suet fine, half a pound of sugar, two pounds of currants clean washed, half a pint of red wine; mix all well together, and make a pie. Bake it an hour. It is very rich.

Dumplings, when you have white Bread.

Take the crumb of a twopenny-loaf grated fine, as much beef-suet shred as fine as possible, a little salt, half a small nutmeg grated, a large spoonful of sugar; beat two eggs with two spoonsful of salt, mix all well together, and roll them up as big as a turkey's egg; let the water boil, and throw them in. Half an hour will boil them. For sauce, melted butter with a little salt; lay the dumplings in a dish, pour the sauce over them, and strew sugar all over the dish.

These are very pretty, either at land or sea. You must observe to rub your hands with flour when you make them up.

The portable soup to carry abroad you have in the Chapter for Soups.

Chouder.

Take a belly-piece of pickled pork, slice off the fat parts, and lay them at the bottom of a kettle; strew over it onions, and such sweet herbs as you can procure. Take a middling large cod bone, and slice it as for crimping; put pepper, salt, and all-spice on, and flour it a little; make a layer with part of [Page] the slices, upon that a slight layer of pork, and on that a layer of biscuit, and so on, pursuing the like rule until the kettle is filled within about four inches; cover it with a nice paste, pour in about a pint of water, put on the cover of the kettle, and let the top be supplied with live wood embers, and keep it over a slow fire about four hours. When you take it up, lay it in the dish, pour in a glass of hot [...]adeira wine, and a very little India pepper if you have oysters or truffles, and morels, it will be still better; thicken it with butter mixed with flour. Take care to skim the stew before you put the sauce in, then lay on the crust, and send it to table reverse, as in the kettle. Cover it close with the paste, which should be brown.

CHAP. XXIV.
PRESERVING.

Rules to be observed in Preserving.

WHEN you make your syrups for preserves, always pound your sugar, and let it dissolve in the syrup before you put it on the fire, as it will occasion the scum to rise, and make your syrup of a better colour. You must be careful not to boil any kind of jellies or syrups too high, as that will make them dark and cloudy; be sure not to keep green sweetmeats longer in the first syrup than directed, or they will lose their colour. The same care is required for oranges and lemons, when you preserve fruit with their stones, such as cherries, damsons, &c. render mutton suet and put over them, tie a bladder over the top, and thick paper over that. to keep out the air; for if the air gets to them it will turn them four, which you may know by the syrup's fretting [Page] and rising above the suet. Wet or dry sweetmeats should be kept in a dry cool place, as a hot place will deprive them of their virtue, and a damp place will turn them mouldy; be sure to let the syrup be above the fruit, and cut writing paper in the shape of your pot or glass, notch it all round the edge, dip it into brandy, lay it close on the top of your sweetmeats, then tie a thick paper over that, as you cannot be too careful in tying them down close to keep out the air, as you will find yourself in a great fault if you leave the pots open, or tie them down carlessly.

Oranges.

Take the largest and clearest Seville oranges, cut a hole out of the stalk-end as big as a six-pence, scoop out all the pulp very clean, tie them singly in muslin, and lay them two days in spring water, change the water twice a day, and boil them in the muslin till they are tender; be careful to keep them covered with water: weigh the oranges before you scoop them, to every pound add two pounds of double-refined sugar pounded and a pint of spring water, boil the sugar and water with the orange juice to a syrup, skim it well, and let it stand till it is cold; take the oranges out of the muslin and put them in, put them over a slow fire, and boil them till they are clear, and put them by till they are cold; then pare and core some green pippins, boil them in water till it is strong of the pippins, do not stir them, but put them down gently with the back of a spoon, and strain the liquor through a jelly-bag till it is clear; put to every pint of liquor a pound of double-refined sugar pounded, and the juice of a lemon strained as clear as you can, boil it to a strong jelly, drain the oranges out of the syrup, and put them in glass or or white stone jars of the size of the orange, and pour the jelly over them; cover them with brandy papers, and tie them down, as directed.

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Lemons.

Take the finest and clearest lemons you can get, and pare them very thin; then cut a round hole at the top, the size of a shilling, and take out the pulp and skins; rub then with salt, and lay them in spring water as you do them, which prevents their turning black; let them lie in five or six days, then boil them in fresh salt and water fifteen minutes; have re [...] made, a thin syrup of a quart of water and a [...] of loaf sugar, boil them in it five minutes for five or six days, and then put them in a large jar; let them stand six or eight weeks, which will make them look clear and plump; then take them out of that syrup, or they will mould. Make a syrup with fine powder sugar; put as much spring water to it as will dissolve it, boil and skim it well, then put in your lemons, and boil them gently till they are clear; put them into a jar with brandy paper over them, and tie them down as directed. Or you may preserve them the same as oranges.

Gooseberries.

Take the largest preserving gooseberries, and pick off the black eye, but not the stalk; then set them over the fire in a pot of spring water, to scald, cover them very close, but do not boil or break them, and when they are tender, take them up and put them in cold water; to every pound of gooseberries take a pound and a half of double-refined sugar. a pint and a half of spring water, and clarify it; and when your syrup is cold put the gooseberries single into your preserving-pan, put the syrup to them and set them on a gentle fire, let them boil, but not too fast, for fear they should break; when they have boiled, and you perceive that the sugar has entered them, take them off, cover them with white paper, and set them by till next day; then take them out of the syrup, and boil the syrup till it begins to be ropy, skim it, and put it to them.

Again, then set them over a gentle fire, and let it simmer gently till you perceive the syrup will rope; [Page] then take th [...] off, and set them by till they are cold, cover them with paper; then boil some gooseberries in fair water, and when the liquor is strong enough strain it through a cloth, let it stand to settle, pour it from the settlings, and to every pint add a pound of double-refined sugar pounded, then boil it to a jelly, and put the gooseberries in glasses; when they are cold cover them with the jelly; the next day cover them with brandy paper, and tie them down as directed.

You may preserve red gooseberries thus: put a pound of loaf sugar into a preserving-pan, with as much spring water as will dissolve it, boil it and skim it well; then put in a quart of rough red gooseberries, and let them boil a little, set them by till the next day, then boil them till they look clear and the syrup thick; then put them into pots or glasses, tie brandy paper, &c. over them.

Rasberries.

Gather your rasberries on a dry day, before they turn too red, with the stalks on about an inch long,(it is best to cut them off with a large pair of scissars) and lay them singly on a dish; beat and sift their weight of double-refined sugar and strew it over them; to every quart of red rasberries take a quart of red currant juice, after it runs through a bag, and put to its weight of double-refined sugar, boil and skim it well, but mind to keep it stirring till the sugar is melted; than put in your rasberries and give them a scald, then take them off and let them stand for two hours; then set them on again, and make them a little hotter: proceed in this manner two or three times, till they look clear, but mind they do not boil, as that will make the stalks come off them; when they are nearly cold put them into jelly glasses, with the stalks downwards.

You may preserve white rasberries the same way, only use white currant jelly instead of red, and put brandy papers, &c. over them.

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Red Currants.

Take some of the largest red currants you can get, not over ripe, and with a small knife stone them; tie six bunches together with a thread on a piece of thin split deal, about three or four inches long; weigh the currants, and put in their weight of double-refined sugar into a preserving-pan with a little spring water boil it till the sugar sties, then put the currants in, and just give them a boil up, cover them with white paper and set them by till the next day; then dry them in a cool stove▪ or put them in glasses, and boil up the syrup with a little red currant juice, put brandy paper, &c. over them.

White Currants.

Stone and tie your currants in bunches as above directed, put them into the preserving-pan, with their weight in double-refined sugar beat and sifted through a sieve, let them stand all night; then take some green codlings, pare, core, and boil them, press them down with the back of a spoon, but do not stir them, when the water is strong of the apple, add to it the juice of a lemon, and strain it through a jelly-bag till it runs clear; to every pint of your juice add a pound of double-refined sugar, and boil it to a strong jelly; then put it to your currants, and boil them gently till they look clear, cover them in the preserving-pan with white paper till they are almost cold; then put a bunch of currants into every glass, and fill them up with jelly; when cold put brandy papers over them, &c.

Green Codlings.

Gather as many as you want when they are about the size of a walnut, with a little of the stalk and a leaf or two on them, put a handful of vine leaves at the bottom of a pan, then put in some spring water, then a layer of codlings, then of leaves, till the pan is full, with vine leaves at the top, cover it cose that no steam can get out, and set it over a slow fire, look at [Page] them often; as soon as you think the skins will come off take them out, and with a knife take off the skins; then put them in the same water again with the vine leaves, which must be quite cold, or it will crack them, put in a little roach allum, and set them over a slow fire till they are green, which will be in about three or four hours; then take them out and lay them on a sieve to drain; make a good strong syrup, and give them a gentle boil once a day for three days; then put them into gallipots, with brandy papers over them, &c.

Golden Pippins.

Take the rind of an orange and boil it very tender, lay it in cold water for three days; take two dozen of golden pippins, pare, core, and quarter them, and boil them to a strong jelly in spring water, and run it through a jelly-bag till it is clear; take the same quantity of pippins, pare them and take out the cores, put three pounds of loaf sugar into a preserving-pan, with a pint and a half of spring water, when it boils skim it well, and put in your pippins with the orange rind cut in long thin slips; let them boil fast, till the sugar is thick and will almost candy; then put in a pint and a half of pippin jelly, and boil it fast till the jelly is clear; then squeeze in the juice of a lemon, give it a boil, and put them in pots or glasses, with the orange-peel; tie brandy papers over, &c. You may use lemon-peel instead of orange, but then you must only boil it, not soak it.

Grapes.

Take some fine grapes, not over ripe, either red or white, cut very close, and pick off all the specked ones, put them in a jar, with a quarter of a pound of sugar candy, and fill the jar with common brandy, tie them down close with a bladder, and keep them in a cold dry place. You may preserve morella cherries the same way.

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Walnuts white.

Take your walnuts before they are hard in the inside, pare them till the white appears, and as fast as you pare them throw them into salt and water, to prevent their turning black, and let them lay till your sugar is ready; take three pounds of loaf sugar, put it into your preserving-pan, set it over a charcoal fire, and put as much water as will just wet the sugar, and let it boil; then have ready ten or a dozen whites of eggs strained and beat up to a froth, cover your sugar with the froth as it boils and skim it; then boil it and skim it till it is as clear as crystal; then throw in your walnuts, just give them a boil till they are tender; then take them out, and lay them in a dish to cool; when cold put them in your preserving-pots, and when the sugar is as warm as milk pour it over them, and when quite cold tie them down.

Walnuts green.

Take and wipe them very clean, and lay them in strong salt and water twenty-four hours, then take them out and wipe them very clean with a dry cloth; have ready a stew-pan of spring water boiling, throw them in, let them boil a minute, and take them out, lay them on a coarse cloth, and boil your sugar as above; then just give your walnuts a scald in the sugar, take them up, and lay them to cool; put them in your preserving-pots, pour your syrup on as above, and tie them down.

Walnuts black.

Take as many as you want of the smaller sort, and put them in salt and water for nine days, changing the water every day, and put some cabbage leaves at the top, with a board upon them to keep the walnuts under water; then put them in a sieve, and let them stand in the air till they begin to turn black; then put them into an earthen jug, pour boiling water over them, and let them stand till the next day; [Page] then take them out, and put them on a sieve to drain; stick a clove in each end of your nut, put them into a stew-pan of boiling water, and boil them five minutes; then take them up, make a thin syrup and scald them in it three or four times a day, till your walnuts are black and bright; then make a thick syrup, with some ginger cut in slices and a few cloves in it, boil it up and skim it well, put in your walnuts, boil them five or six minutes, then put them into your jars, tie them over with brandy paper, &c.

Green-Gage Plumbs.

Take the finest green-gage plumbs just before they are ripe; put vine leaves at the bottom of a preserving-pan, then a layer of plumbs, then vine leaves, till the pan is nearly full, then fill it with spring water, set them over a slow fire, and when they are hot and the skins begin to break take them off, and take the skins off carefully, lay them on a sieve as you do them, then lay them in the same water in the same manner you did at first, and cover them very close, so that no steam can get out; hang them at a great distance from the fire till they are green, which will take five or six hours at least; then take them up very carefully, lay them on a hair sieve to drain; make a good syrup, and give them a gentle boil twice a day for two days, take them out and put them in a fine clear syrup, tie brandy paper over them, &c.

Damsons.

Take two quarts of damsons and cut them in pieces, put them in a pot over the fire, with as much water as will cover them; when they are boiled and the liquor pretty strong strain it through a fine sieve; wipe four quarts of damsons very dry with a cloth, add to every pound of damsons a pound of single refined sugar, put the third part of your sugar into the liquor, set it over the fire, and when it simmers put in the damsons, let them have one good boil; then take them off for half an hour covered up close, then [Page] set them on again, and let them simmer on the fire after turning them; then take them out and put them in a boson, strew all the sugar over them that was left, and pour the hot liquor over them, cover them up, and let them stand till the next day; then give them a gentle boil up, then put them in gallipots when cold, put mutton-suet over them, and tie a bladder and paper over all.

Damsons for Tarts.

Put a layer of coarse sugar at the bottom of an earthen pan, then a layer of damsons, then sugar, till the pan is full; tie them over with brown paper, put them in a warm oven for two hours, then take them out, and to every quart of damsons take a pound of good moist sugar, just wet it with spring water in a preserving-pan, boil it up and skim it well; then put in your damsons and boil them up very gently for ten minutes, skim them well, then put them into jars, and when cold put mutton-suet hot over them; tie a bladder and coarse paper over all, and keep them in a cool dry place.

Morella Cherries.

Gather your cherries on a fine day when they are full ripe, take off the stalks, and prick them with a pin; weigh your cherries and to every pound add a pound and a half of double-refined sugar pounded and sifted, strew about one third of your sugar over the cherries, and let them lay all night; dissolve the rest of your sugar in a pint of currant juice, set it over a slow fire, and put in the cherries, with the sugar and juice that runs from them, and give them a gentle scald; then take them out, put them into your pots, boil your syrup till it is thick, and pour it over them, tie them down with brandy papers, or put mutton-suet over them, and tie a bladder and paper over all.

Strawberries.

Gather your strawberries on a fine day, the largest [Page] and finest scarlet ones, with their stalks on before they are to ripe, lay them separately on a dish, and weigh them; beat and sift double their weight of double refined sugar, and strew over them; then take a few ripe scarlet strawberries, crush them, and put them into a jar, with their weight of double-refined sugar beat fine, cover them close, and let them stand in a deep pot of boiling water till they are soft, and the syrup is come out of them▪ then strain them through a muslin rag into a preserving-pan, boil and skim it well, and when it is cold put in your whole strawberries and set them over the fire till they are milk warm▪ then take them off, and let them stand till they are quite cold; then set them on again, and make them a little hotter, and do so several times, till they look clear, but do not let them boil, for that will bring off their stalks; when they are cold put them in jelly glasses with the stalks downwards; then fill up your glasses with the syrup, put brandy papers over them, and tie writing paper over all.

Pine Apples.

Take the small pine-apples before they are ripe, make a strong salt and water, and lay them in for five days; then put a handful of vine leaves in the bottom of a large sauce-pan, and put in your pine-apples, fill your pan with vine leaves, and then pour on the salt and water they were soaked in, cover them up very close, set them over a slow fire, and let them stand till they are of a fine light green; make a thin syrup of a quart of spring water and a pound of double-refined sugar, when it is almost cold put it into a deep jar, and put in the pine-apples with their tops on, let them stand a week, but take care they [...]re well covered with the syrup when they have stood a week, boil your syrup again, and pour it carefully into your jar, for [...]ear you should break the tops of your pine-apples off, let them stand eight or ten weeks, and during that time give the syrup two or three boiling [...] to keep it from moulding; let your [Page] syrup stand till it is nearly cold before you put it in; and when your pine-apples look quite full and green take them out of the syrup, and make a thick syrup of three pounds of double-refined sugar with as much water as will dissolve it, boil and skim it well, and put a few slices of white ginger into it, and when it is nearly cold put your pine-apples in clean jars, and pour the syrup over them, tie them down close with a bladder, and they will keep several years.

Barberries.

When you intend to preserve barberries for tarts proceed in the following manner: take and pick the female bunches from the stalks, weigh them, and put them in a jar with their weight in loaf sugar, and set them in a kettle of boiling water till the sugar is melted and the berries quite soft, let them stand all night, and the next day put them into a preserving pan, and boil them fifteen minutes, then put them into gallipots, and tie them down close.

If they are to be preserved in bunches proceed thus: gather the finest female barberries and pick out the largest bunches, and then pick the rest from the stalks, put them in as much spring water as will make syrup for your bunches as near as you can guess, boil them till they are very soft, then strain them through a sieve, and to every pint of juice put a pound and a half of loaf sugar pounded, boil and skim it well, and to every pint of syrup put half a pound of berries in bunches, boil them very gently till they look fine and clear; then put them carefully into gallipots or glasses, and tie them down with brandy paper, &c.

Quinces.

Take and pare them very thin and round, and preserve them whole, or cut in quarters, which you please, put them into a stew-pan, fill it with hard water, and lay your parings over the quinces to keep them down; cover your stew-pan close, that no steam can get out, and set them over a slow fire till [Page] they are soft and of a fine pink colour; then let them stand till they are cold; make a good syrup of double-refined sugar pounded, wetted with spring water enough to melt it, and sufficient to cover the quinces; boil and skim it well, then put in your quinces, let them boil gently ten minutes, then take them off and let them stand two or three hours; then boil them till the syrup is thick and the quinces look clear, then put them into deep gallipots and tie them over with brandy paper, &c.

Peaches.

Take the finest and largest you can get, not over ripe, rub off the lint with a cloth, and run them down the seam with a pin skin deep, put them in a jar, and cover them with French brandy, tie a bladder over them, and let them stand a week; make a strong syrup, boil and skim it well; take the peaches out of the brandy, put them in and boil them till they look clear; then take them out, mix the syrup with the brandy, and when it is cold pour it over your peaches; tie them down close with a bladder, and a leather over it.

You may put peaches into a deep jar or glass, cover them with French brandy; and a spoonful of the brandy with a slice of the peach is very fine in punch.

A pine-apple is very fine cut in slices, and covered with fine old rum, to be used in the same manner, and will keep good a long time.

Apricots.

Gather you apricots before they are too ripe, put them into a stew-pan, and cover them with spring water; coddle them till the skins will come off, then take them out▪ and with a penknife take off the skins, take out the stones, and lay them on a coarse cloth; make a strong syrup with double-refined sugar, with as much water as will wet it▪ boil and skim it well, then put in your apricots. and boil them gently till they are clear; then put them into gallipots and tie brandy-paper over, &c.

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Cucumbers.

Take two hundred of the finest and clearest small cucumbers for pickling, put them into strong salt and water for four hours, then wash them out, and put them into a sieve to drain, put them into a jar and pour boiling hot vinegar over them, cover them close, and let them stand till the next day; then pour the vinegar from them and make it boil, while it boils pour it over the cucumbers, cover them close, and repeat it till they are as green as grass; then let them stand till they are cold; make a syrup of three pints of spring water and two pounds of loaf sugar, strain them from the vinegar, put them in, and give them a gentle boil; let them stand in that syrup a week, then make a strong syrup with double-refined sugar, with as much spring water as will wet it, put in some slices of white ginger, boil and skim it well, strain the cucumbers from the first syrup, and put into strong syrup, give them a gentle boil, then put them into gallipots, and when cold tie brandy papers over them, &c.

Rasberry Jam.

Take your rasberries and bruise them, put them into a stew-pan, and set them over a slow fire, stir them often till they are boiled up, then rub them through a cullender, then add their weight in loaf sugar pounded, boil them very gently for half an hour, but mind to stir them often, for fear of their burning; then put them into gallipots, and tie them down with brandy paper, &c.

Apricot Jam.

Take as may full ripe apricots as you want, pare and cut them thin, take out the stones, and infuse them in an earthen pan till they are dry and tender; to every pound and a half of apricots put a pound of double-refined sugar with three spoonsful of spring water, boil your sugar to a candy height, then put [Page] in your apricots bruised fine, stir them over a slow fire till they are clear and thick; mind they must only simmer, not boil; then put them into your glasses, put brandy paper over, &c.

Strawberry Jam.

Take some of the finest scarlet strawberries gathered when they are full ripe, pick them from the stalks, put some juice of strawberries to them beat and sift their weight in double-refined sugar, and straw it over them; put them into a preserving-pan, set them over a slow fire, boil them twenty minutes, and skim them; then put them in glasses, when cold put brandy paper on them, &c.

Black Currant Jam.

Garther your currants when they are full ripe on a dry day, pick them from the stalks, then bruise them well in a bowl, and to every pound of currants put a pound of double-refined sugar beaten and sifted; put them into a preserving-pan, boil them half an hour, skim and keep them stirring all the time, then put them into pots; when cold put brandy-paper over, and tie white paper over all.

CHAP. XXV.
SYRUPS AND CONSERVES.

Syrup of Quinces.

TAKE you quinces and grate them, pass their pulp through a coarse cloth to extract the juice, set the juice before the sun or fire, to settle, and by that means clarify it; to every four ounces of juice take [Page] a pound of sugar boiled into a syrup with spring water: if the putting in the juice of the quinces should check the boiling of the syrup too much, give the syrup some boiling till it becomes pearled, then take it off the fire, and when cold put it into bottles and cork them tight.

Syrup of Roses.

Infuse three pounds of damask rose leaves in a gallon of warm water in a well glazed earthen pot, with a narrow mouth▪ for eight hours, which stop so close that none of the virtue may exhale; when they have infused so long, heat the water again, squeeze them out, and put in three pounds more of rose leaves to infuse for eight hours more, press them out very hard; then to every quart of this infusion add four pounds of fine sugar, and boil it to a syrup; when it is cold, bottle it and cork them tight.

Syrup of Citron.

Pare and slice your citrons thin, lay them in a China bowl with layers of fine sugar; the next day pour off the liquor into a glass, and clarify it over a gentle fire.

Syrup of Clove Gilliflowers.

Clip your gilliflowers, sprinkle them with fair water, put them into a earthen pot, stop them very close, set them in a [...]ittle of boiling water, and let them boil for two hours; then strain out the juice, put a pound and a half of fine sugar to a pint of juice, put it into a preserving-pan, set it on the fire, keep it stirring till the sugar is all melted, (do not let it boil) then set it by to cool, and bottle it.

Syrup of Peach Blossoms.

Infuse peach blossoms in hot water, as much as will handsomely cover them let them stand in balnao, or sand, twenty-four hours, covered close, then strain out the flowers from the liquor, and put in fresh flowers, [Page] let them stand to infuse as before, then strain them out, and to the liquor put fresh peach blossoms, a third time, and if you please a fourth time; then to every pound of your infusion add two pounds of double-refined sugar, and set it in sand or balnao; this mak [...]s a syrup which will keep for use.

Conserve of Red Roses, or any other Flowers.

Take rose buds, or any other flowers and pick them, cut off the white part from the red, and put the red flowers and sift them through a sieve to take out the seeds, then weigh them, and to every pound of flowers take two pounds and a half of loaf sugar; beat the flowers very fine in a marble mortar, then by degrees put the sugar to them, and beat it very well till it is well incorporated together, then put it into gallipots. tie it over with paper, over that a leather, and it will keep seven years.

Conserve Hips.

Gather your hips before they grow soft, cut off the heads and stalks, slit them in halves. take out all the seeds and white that is on them very clean, then put them into an earthen pan, and stir them every day, or they will grow mouldy, let them stand till they are soft enough to rub through a coarse hair sieve, as the pulp comes through take it off the sieve; (they are a dry berry, and will require pains to rub them through) then add its weight in fine sugar, mix them well together without boiling, and keep it in deep gallipots for use.

Conserve of Orange-Peel.

Grate the rind of your Seville oranges as thin as you can, weigh it, and add to every pound of orangerind three pounds of loaf sugar; pound the orangerind well in a marble mortar, and mix the sugar by degrees with them, beat all well together; then put it into gallipots, and tie it down with paper, and keep it for use.

Lemon peel may be done the same way.

CHAP. XXVI.
DRYING AND CANDYING.

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To dry Cherries.

TO four pound of cherries put one pound of loaf sugar, and put as much water as will wet them, when it is melted make it boil; stone your cherries, put them in, and make them boil, skim it two or three times, take them off, and let them stand in the syrup two or three days; then take them out of the syrup, and boil it up, pour it over the cherries, but do not boil the cherries any more; let them stand three or four days longer; then take them out, lay them on a sieve to dry, and lay them in the sun, or in a slow oven to dry; when dry lay a sheet of white paper at the bottom of a small box, then a row of cherries, then paper, till they are all in, and paper over them.

Cherries with their Leaves and Stalks green.

Take your cherries with a little stalk and a leaf or two on, first dip the stalks and leaves in the best vinegar boiling hot, stick the sprigs upright in a sieve till they are dry; in the mean time make a strong syrup with double-refined sugar, and dip the cherries, leaves, stalks and all into the syrup, and just let them scald; take them out and lay them on a sieve, and boil the syrup to a candy height; then dip the cherries, leaves, stalks and all in; then stick the branches in sieves and dry them in a slow oven, or before the fire; they look very pretty by candle-light in a desert.

To dry Cherries a third Way.

Take eight pounds of cherries, one pound of fine [Page] powder sugar, stone the cherries over a deep bason or glass, and lay them one by one in rows, and strew a little sugar over, thus do till your bason or glass is full to the top, and let them stand till the next day; then put them into a preserving-pan, set them over the fire, and let them boil fast for a quarter of an hour or more; then pour them into your bason again, and let them stand two or three days, then take them out of the syrup and lay them one by one on hair sieves, and set them in the sun, or put them in the oven till they are dry, turning them every day on dry sieves; put them in boxes with white paper between.

To dry Cherries a fourth Way.

Take twelve pounds of morella cherries, stone them and put them into your preserving-pan, with three pounds of double-refined sugar pounded, and a quart of water; then set them on the fire till they are scalding hot, take them off a little while, then set them on the fire again, and boil them till they are tender; then sprinkle them over with half a pound of fine powder sugar, and skim them clean, put them altogether in a China bowl, let them stand in the syrup two or three days, take them out one by one, and lay them with the holes downwards on a wicker sieve, then set them into a stove to dry, and as they dry turn them on clean sieves; when they are dry enough lay a sheet of white paper at the bottom of a preserving-pan, then put all the cherries in, with another sheet of white paper on the top, cover them close with a cloth, and set them over a cool fire till they sweat; take them off the fire, then let them stand till they are cold, then put them in boxes with white paper.

To dry Peaches.

Take the clearest and ripest peaches, pare them into fair water; take their weight in double-refined sugar, of one half make a very thin syrup, then put [Page] in your peaches, and boil them till they look clear; then split and stone them, boil them till they are very tender, and put them on a sieve to drain; take the other half of the sugar and boil it almost to a candy, then put in your peaches, and let them lay all night; then lay them in a glass, and set them in a stove till they are dry; if they are sugared too much, wipe them with a wet cloth a little, then put them in boxes between white paper.

To dry Plumbs.

Take the large pear-plumbs, fair and clear coloured, weigh them, and slit them up the sides, put them into a broad stew-pan, and fill it full of spring water, set them over a very slow fire, (take care that the skins do not come off) when they are tender take them up, and to every pound of plumbs put a pound of powdered sugar, strew a little at the bottom of a large bowl. then lay your plumbs in one by one, and strew the rest of the sugar over them, and set them into your stove all night▪ the next day with a good warm fire, heat them, and set them into your stove again, and let them stand two days more, turning them every day; then take them out of the syrup, and lay them on glass plates, and dry them in your stove or oven; when dry put them between clean white paper in boxes.

Note. Green-gage plumbs, or any other sort, may be dried the same way.

To dry Damsons.

Take the finest damsons you can get, make a thin syrup, boil and skim it well, then put in your damsons first, take out the stones, and give them a boil, and let them stand in the syrup till next day; then make a rich syrup with double-refined sugar and as much water as will wet it, and boil it to a candy height then take your damsons out of the other syrup, and put them in, give them a simmer, and put them away till the next day; then put them one by one on a [Page] sieve, and dry them in a cool oven or stove, or before the fire; (mind and turn them twice every day) when dried put them in a box with white paper between, and keep them in a cool dry place.

To dry Plumbs green.

Take and dip the stalks and leaves in boiling vinegar, and put them on a sieve to dry; have strong syrup ready, and give them a scald in it, and very carefully with a pin take off the skin, boil your syrup to a candy height; then dip in your plumbs, then take them out, and hang them by the stalks to dry on any thing you conveniently can, and dry them in a cool oven, and they will look finely transparent, with a clear drop at the end.

To dry Apricots.

Take some fine ripe apricots, pare them very thin, and stone them, put them into a preserving-pan, and to every pound of apricots pound a pound of double-refined sugar, strew some amongst them, and lay the rest over them; let them stand twenty-four hours, turn them three or four times in the syrup; then boil them pretty quick till they are clear, then put them away in the syrup till they are cold; when cold put them on glasses, and dry them in a cool oven or stove, turn them often; when they are dry put them in a box between white paper.

Lemon and Orange Peel candied.

Take your lemons or oranges and cut them lengthways, and take out all the pulp and inside skins, put the peels into a strong salt and hard water for six days, then boil them for six days, then boil them in spring water till they are tender, take them out and lay them on a sieve to drain; make a thin syrup with a pound of loaf sugar to a quart of water, and boil them in it for half an hour, or till they look clear; make a thick syrup of double-refined sugar, with as much water as will wet it, put in your peels, and [Page] boil them over a slow fire till you see the syrup candy about the pan and the peels▪ then take them out and sprinkle fine powder sugar over them, lay them on a sieve and dry them in a [...]ool oven, or before the fire.

Melon Citren candied.

Quarter your melon and take out all the inside, then put it into a thin syrup, as much as will cover the coat, let it boil in the syrup till it is tender all through; then put it away in the syrup for two or three days, (but mind the syrup covers them) that the syrup may penetrate through them; then take them out, and boil your syrup to a candy height, then dip in your quarters, and lay them on a sieve to dry in a slow oven or before the fire.

Angelica candied.

Take it in April, cut it in lengths, and boil it in water till it is tender, then put it on a sieve to drain, then peel it and dry it in a clean cloth, and to every pound of stalks take a pound of double-refined sugar finely pounded, put your stalks into an earthen pan, and strew the sugar over them; cover them close, and let them stand for two days; then put it into a preserving-pan, and boil it till it is clear; then put it into a cullender to drain strew it pretty thick over with fine powder sugar, lay it on plates, and dry it in a cool oven.

Cassia candied.

Take as much of the powder of cassia as will lay on two shillings, with a little musk and amber-grease, and pound them well together; then take a quarter of a pound of fine sugar, with as much water as will wet it, and boil it to a candy height; then put in your powder, and mix it well together; butter some pewter saucers and pour it in, and when it is cold it will turn out.

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Orange Marmalade.

Take two of the finest Seville oranges you can get, and cut them in two, take out all the pulp and juice into a pan, and pick out all the skins and seeds; boil the rinds in hard water till they are very tender, and change the water three times while they are boiling: then pound them in a mortar, and put is the juice and pulp, put them in a preserving pan, with double their weight of loaf sugar, set them over a slow fire, and boil them gently for forty minutes; then put them into gallipots, and when cold tie them down with brandy papers, &c.

Apricot Marmalade.

Take the apricots that are not specked▪ or not good enough for preserves, or over ripe, will answer this purpose, take out the stones, and boil them in a good syrup till they will mash, then beat them in a marble mortar to a paste; put half their weight in loaf sugar, with as much water into a preserving-pan, boil and skim it till it looks clear, then put in the apricot paste, mix it well together, give it a boil up, then put it into gallipots; when cold put brandy paper over it.

Red Quince Marmalade.

Take ripe quinces, pare and quarter them, take out the cores, put them into an earthen pan, and cover them with spring water, put the parings on the top, tie a piece of coarse paper over them, put them into the oven after your other things are baked, and let them stand in all night; the next day take them out, take out the parings, mash them well, and rub them through a coarse sieve; then take their weight in loaf sugar, put it into a preserving-pan, with as much spring water as will wet it, boil and skim it well, then put in your quinces, and boil them gently three quarters of an hour, mind and stir them all the time, or they will stick to the bottom and burn; [Page] then put it into gallipots, and when it is cold tie it down with brandy paper, &c.

White Quince Marmalade.

Take the whitest quinces, pare and core them as fast as you can, and cut them in slices, take out the cores, and to every pound of quinces take three quarters of a pound of double-refined sugar pounded, throw half the sugar over the raw quinces, set it over a slow fire till the sugar is melted and the quinces tender; then put in the rest of the sugar, and boil it up pretty quick, and keep it stirring often; when it is clear put it into gallipots and when it is cold put brandy paper over it, and keep it in a cool dry place.

Rasberry Paste.

Take a quart of fine ripe rasberries and mash them, squeeze the juice out of one half and put to the other half boil them gently for a quarter of an hour, then rub them through a coarse sieve with the back of a spoon, then put them into a preserving-pan, with a pint of red currant juice, and boil them well; then put a pound and a half of fine sugar into another pan, with as much water as will dissolve it, and boil it to a sugar again. then put in your rasberries and juice, give them a scald, then put them on a glass or plates, put them into a stove to dry, and turn them often.

Currant Paste.

You may make either red or white currant paste in the following manner: strip your currants from the stalks, boil a few, and strain the juice to the rest; boil them well, and rub them through a hair sieve with the back of a spoon. put them into a preserving-pan. boil them a quarter of an hour, and to a pint of juice put a pound and a half of double-refined sugar pounded and sifted, boil it till the sugar is melted, then pour it on plates, cut it in what form you please, and dry it in the same manner as the above paste.

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Goosberry Paste.

Take your red gooseberries when they are full grown and turned, put not ripe, cut them in halves, and pick out all the seeds; [...]ve ready a pint of red currant juice, and boil your gooseberries in it till they are tender, then rub them through a sieve; put a pound and a half of double refined-sugar into a preserving-pan▪ with as much spring water as will dissolve it, and boil it to a sugar again; them mix all together. and make it scalding hot, but do not let it boil, pour it on plates or glasses, and dry it as before directed.

Orange Chips.

Take some of the finest Seville oranges and pare them aslant, about a quarter of an inch broad, and keep the parings as whole as you can. as they will have a prettier effect; when you have pared all you want, put them into salt and spring water for a day or two, then boil them in a large quantity of spring water till they are tender, then drain them on a sieve; make a thin syrup of a pound of fine sugar and a quart of water, boil them a few at a time, to keep them from braking, till they look clear, then put them into a syrup made of fine sugar and as much water as will dissolve it, and boil it to a candy height; then take them up and lay them on a sieve, and grate double refined sugar over them, and dry them in a stove or before the fire.

Apricot Chips.

Take your apricots, pare them, and cut them very thin into chips; take three quarters of their weight in sugar finely scarced then put the sugar and apricots into a pewter dish set them upon coals, and when the sugar is dissolved turn them upon the edge of a dish out of the syrup and set them by till the next day; then warm them again in the syrup, but do not let them boil, and keep them turning till they have drank up all the syrup; then lay them on a plate, and dry them in a stove.

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Ginger Tablet.

Melt a pound of fine loaf sugar, with a bit of butter over the fire, and put in an ounce of pounded ginger, keep it stirring till it begins to rise into a froth; rub some pewter plates with a little oil and pour it in; when it is cold slip it out, put it into a China dish, and garnish it with flowers.

CHAP. XXVII.
CAKES.

Proper Rules to be observed in making Cakes.

BEFORE you intend to finish your cake, be sure to have all your ingredients ready prepared to your hand, and never beat up your eggs till the last thing, and never leave them to go about any thing else till they are finished, as the eggs by standing unmixed will require fresh beating, which will occasion your cake to be heavy. When you intend to put butter in your cakes, be sure to beat it with your hand to a fine cream before you mix it with sugar, or else it will require double the beating and will not answer your purpose half so well: all cakes made with rice, seeds, or plumbs, is best baked in wooden hoops, for when they are baked in tins or pans the outside of your cake will be burned, and will be so much confined, that the heat cannot penetrate into the middle of your cake, and prevent it from rising; the best method is, to put a round tin in the middle of your large cakes, and then you will have it thoroughly baked

All kinds of cakes should be baked in a well-heated oven, heated according to the size of your cake.

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Icing for Cakes.

Take the whites of twelve eggs, and a pound of double-refined sugar pounded and sifted through a fine sieve, mix them together in a deep earthen pan, and beat it well for three hours with a strong wooden spoon till it looks white and thick, then with a thin paste knife spread it all over the top and sides of your cake, and ornament it with sweet nonpareils, or fruit paste, or sugar images, and put it in a cool oven to harden for one hour, or set it at a distance from the fire, and keep turning it till it is hard. You may perfume the icing with any sort of perfume you please.

A rich Cake.

Take four pounds of flour dried and sifted, seven pounds of currants clean washed, picked, and rubbed well, six pounds of the best fresh butter, two pounds of Jordon almonds blanched and beat fine in a mortar, with orange-flower water and sack; then take four pounds of eggs, put half the whites away, three pounds of double-refined sugar beaten and sifted, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, the same of cinnamon and mace, three large nutmegs, and a little ginger all beaten fine and sifted, half a pint of sack, half a pint of good French brandy, some candied citron, orange. and lemon peel to your liking, and cut in slips, work your butter to a cream with your hands before any of your ingredients are [...] in, then put in your sugar, and mix them well together before you put in your eggs, let them be well beaten and strained through a sieve, then work in your almonds, then put in the eggs. and beat all well together, till they look white and thick, then put in your sack, brandy, and spices, shake your flour in by degrees, and when your oven is ready put in your currants and sweetmeats, and work it well up, put it into your hoop, and bake it four hours in a quick oven. You must keep beating it with your hand all the while you are mixing it, and when your [Page] currants are washed and cleaned put them before the fire to plump, so that they may go warm into the cake. You may bake this quantity in two hoops if you please, and when it is cold ice it.

Plumb Cake.

Take a pound and a half of fine flour well dried and sifted; the same quantity of fresh butter, three quarters of a pound of currants well washed, picked, [...] [...]bbed, stone and slice half a pound of raisins, [...] and a quarter of fine sugar beat and sifted [...] [...]en eggs, (leave out half the whites) shred [...] of a large lemon very fine, two ounces of candied citron, the same of lemon-peel, the same of orange-peel, a tea spoonful of beaten cloves and mace, half a nutmeg grated, a gill of brandy, and four spoonsful of orange-flour water; first work the butter with your hand to a cream, then beat your sugar well in, beat your eggs for half an hour, then mix them with your butter and sugar, and by degrees put in your flour and spices, and beat the whole with your hand for one hour and a half; when your oven is ready, mix in lightly your brandy, fruit, and sweetmeats; then put it in your hoop, and bake it two hours and a half in a quick oven; when it is cold ice it.

A Pound Cake

Take a pound of fresh butter, beat it in an earthen pan with your hand one way till it is like a fine, thick cream; then have ready twelve eggs, but half the whites, beat them well, and beat them with the butter; then beat in a pound of fine flour, a pound of fine powder sugar, and a few carraway seeds, beat them well together for one hour with your hand; butter a pan, put it in, and bake it one hour in a quick oven.

Seed Cake.

Take half a peck of flour, a pound and a half of fresh butter, put the butter into a sauce-pan, with a [Page] pint of new milk, and set it on the fire; take a pound of sugar pounded, half an ounce of all-spice pounded and mix them with the flour; when the butter is melted pour the milk and butter in the middle of the flour, and work it up like paste; pour in with the milk and butter half a pint of good ale yeast, sot it before the fire to rise before it goes to the oven; put in two ounces of carraway-seeds, put it in a hoop, and bake it in a quick oven.

White Plumb Cakes.

Take two pounds of fine flour dried and sifted, one pound of fine sugar pounded and sifted, a pound of fresh butter, a quarter of an ounce of mace and one nutmeg beaten; sixteen eggs, two pounds and a half of currants clean washed, picked, and rubbed, half a pound of sweet almonds blanched, half a pound of candied lemon, half a pint of brandy, and three spoonsful of orange flower water; beat your butter to a cream, put in your sugar, beat the whites of your eggs half an hour, and mix them with your sugar and butter; then beat your yolks half an hour, and mix them with the rest, which will take two hours beating, put in your flour a little before your oven is ready, and just before you put it into your hoop mix together lightly your currants and all your other ingredients, and bake it two hours in a quick oven.

Butter Cake.

Take a dish of butter and beat it with your hands till it is like cream, two pounds of fine sugar beat and sifted, three pounds of flour well dried, and mix the butter with twenty four eggs, leave out half the whites, and then beat all together for one hour; just as you are going to put it into the oven, put in a quarter of an ounce of mace and a nutmeg beaten, a little sack and brandy, and seeds or currants, as you please.

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Rice Cakes.

Take the yolks of sixteen eggs and beat them half an hour with a whisk, put to them three quarters of a pound of loaf sugar beat and sifted fine, and beat it well into the eggs; then put in half a pound of the flour of rice, a little orange flower-water and brandy, and the rinds of two lemons grated; then beat seven whites with a whisk for an hour, and beat all together for a quarter of an hour, then put them in small hoops, and bake them half an hour in a quick oven.

Cream Cakes.

Take and beat the whites of nine eggs to a stiff froth, then stir it gently with a spoon, lest the froth should fall; to every white of an egg grate the rind of two lemons, shake softly in a spoonful of double-refined sugar beat and sifted fine; put a wet sheet of paper on a tin, and with a spoon drop the froth in little lumps on it at a small distance from each other; sift a quantity of fine pounded sugar over them, set them in the oven after bread is drawn, and make the oven close up, and when the froth rises they are baked enough; as soon as they are coloured take them out, and lay two bottoms together, lay them on a sieve, and put them to dry in a cool oven. If you choose, you may, before you close the bottoms together to dry, lay rasberry jam, or any kind of sweetmeats between them.

A fine Seed or Saffron Cake.

Take a quarter of a peek of fine flour, a pound and a half of fresh butter, three ounces of carraway-seeds, six eggs beat well, a quarter of an ounce of cloves and mace beat together very fine, a little cinnamon, a pound of powder sugar, a spoonful of rosewater, a penny worth of tincture of saffron, a pint and a half of yeast, and a quart of new milk, mix it all together lightly with your hands thus: first boil your milk and butter, then skim off the butter, [Page] and mix with your flour and a little of the milk, stir the yeast into the rest, and strain it, mix it with the flour, put in your seeds and spice, rose water, saffron, sugar, and eggs, beat it all well up with your hands lightly, and bake it in a hoop or pan well buttered, it will take an hour and a half in a quick oven. You may leave the seeds out if you choose it.

Nuns Cake.

Take four pounds of fine flower and three pounds of double-refined sugar beaten and sifted, mix them together, and dry them before the fire till you prepare the other ingredients; take four pounds of butter, beat it with your hand till it is as fine as cream; then beat thirty-five eggs, leave out sixteen whites, strain your eggs through a sieve to take out th [...] [...] dles, and beat them and the butter together till all appears like butter; then put in four large spoonsful of rose or orange flower water, and beat it again; then take your flower and sugar, with six ounces of carraway-seeds, and strew them in by degrees, beating it up all the time, and for two hours together, and put in a little tincture of saffron to colour it; butter your hoop, put it in, and bake it three hours in a moderate oven.

Pepper Cakes.

Take a gill of sack and a quarter of an ounce of whole white pepper, put it in and boil it together for a quarter of an hour, then strain out the pepper, and put in as much double-refined sugar as will make it like a paste, then drop it, in what shape you please, on a tin plate, and let it dry itself.

Portugal Cakes.

Mix into a pound of fine flour a pound of loaf sugar pounded and sifted, then rub it into a pound of sweet fresh butter till it is thick, like grated bread, then put to it two spoonsful of rose water; two of sack, [Page] ten eggs well whipt with a whisk, then mix into it eight ounces of currants, and mix all well together; butter your small tin pans, fill them but half [...]all, and bake them.

If they are made without currants they will keep half a year, add a pound of almonds blanched and beat with rose water as above, and leave out the flour. These are another and better sort.

A pretty Cake.

Take and dry five pounds of flour well, one pound of sugar, half an ounce of mace, as much nutmeg beat very fine, and mix the sugar and spice in the flour, take twenty-two eggs, leave out six of the whites, beat them well, and put a pint of ale yeast and the eggs into the flour; take two pounds and a half of fresh butter, a pint and a half of cream, set the cream and butter over the fire till the butter is melted, let it stand till it is blood-warm before you put it into the flour, set it an hour by the fire to rise, then put in seven pounds of currants washed, picked, rubbed, and plumped in half a pint of brandy, and three quarters of a pound of candied peels cut fine; mix it well up, put it in a hoop, and bake it three hours in a well heated oven.

Little fine Cakes.

Take and beat one pound of butter to a cream, a pound and a quarter of flour, a pound of fine sugar beat and sifted, a pound of currants clean washed and picked, six eggs, two whites left out, and beat them fine; mix the flour, sugar, and eggs by degrees into the butter, beat it all well with both hands. Either make it into little cakes, or bake it in one.

Shrewsbury Cakes.

Take two pounds of flour, a pound of sugar finely searced, and mix them together; (take out a quarter of a pound to roll them in) take four eggs beat [Page] fine, four spoonsful of cream and two spoonsful of rose water, beat them well together. and mix them with the flour into a paste; roll them into thin cakes, and bake them in a quick oven.

Maudling Cakes.

Take a quarter of a peck of flour well dried before the fire, add two pounds of mutton-suet tried and strained clear off, and when it is a little cool mix it well with the flour some salt and a very little all-spice beat fine; take half a pint of good yeast, and put in half a pint of water, stir it well together, strain it, and mix up your flour into a paste of a moderate stiffness, (you must add as much cold water, as will make the paste of a right order) and make it into cakes about the thickness and bigness of an oat cake; have ready some currants clean washed and picked, strew some in the middle of your cakes between your dough, so that none can be seen till the cake is broke. You may leave the currants out if you do not choose them.

Little Plumb Cakes.

Take two pounds of fine flour dried in the oven or before a great fire, and half a pound of sugar finely powdered, four yolks of eggs▪ two whites▪ half a pound of butter washed with rose water, six spoonsful of cream warmed, a pound and a half of currants unwashed, but picked and rubbed very clean with a cloth, and mix all well together; then make them up into cakes, and bake them in a pretty hot oven, and let them stand half an hour till they are coloured on both sides: then take down the oven lid and let them stand to soak. You must rub the butter into the flour very well, then the eggs and cream, and then the currants.

Carraway Cakes.

Take two pounds of fine flour and two pounds of coarse loaf sugar well dried and sifted, (after the [Page] flour and sugar is sifted and weighed, mix them together, and put them in the bowl you intend to mix them in) beat two pounds of fresh butter till it is like cream, beat well eighteen eggs, leave out eight whites▪ beat all well together for one hour, and put in four ounces of candied peel cut fine, six ounces of carraway comfits two spoonsful of rose water, a gill of sack, and by degrees mix in the different ingredients as you beat it, and keep constantly beating it with your hand till your oven is ready, then put it into your hoops you must have three doubles of cap paper buttered in your hoops) and sift some fine sugar over them; bake them one hour and a half in a moderate oven.

Sugar Cakes.

Take a pound and a half of fine flour, one pound of cold butter, half a pound of sugar, work all these well together into a paste, then roll it with the palms of your hands into round balls, and cut them with a thin knife into thin cakes, sprinkle a little flour on a sheet of paper, and put them on; prick them with a fork and bake them.

Almond Cakes.

Take a pound of Jordan almonds, blanch them and beat them fine in a mortar, with a little orange flower water to keep them from oiling, then take a pound and a quarter of fine sugar▪ boil it to a candy height, and then put in your almonds; take two fine lemons, grate off the rind very thin, and put as much juice as to make it of a quick taste, then put it into your glasses, and set it into your stove, stirring them often, that they do not candy; when it is a little dried make it in little cakes on glass to dry.

Uxbridge Cakes.

Take a pound of fine flour, seven pounds of currants, half a nutmeg, and four pounds of butter, rub your butter cold very well amongst the flour, mix [Page] your currants well in the flour, butter, and seasoning, and knead it with so much new yeast as will make it into a pretty high paste; after it is kneaded well together let it stand an hour to rise, and put about half a pound of paste into a cake.

Bride Cake.

Take four pounds of fine flour well dried, four pounds of fresh butter, two pounds of loaf sugar, a quarter of an ounce of mace, the same of nutmegs well beat and sifted, and to every pound of flour put eight eggs, four pounds of currants well washed and picked, and dry them before the fire till they are plump, blanch a pound of Jordan almonds, and cut them lengthways very thin, a pound of candied citron, the same of candied orange, and the same of candied lemon peel, cut in thin slips, and half a pint of brandy; first work your butter to a fine cream with your hand, then beat in your sugar a quarter of an hour, and beat the whites of your eggs to a strong froth, and mix them with your sugar and butter; beat your yolks for half an hour with one hand, and mix them well with the rest; then by degrees put in your flour, mace, and nutmeg, and keep beating it till your oven is ready▪ put in the brandy, currants, and almonds lightly▪ tie three sheets of paper round the bottom of your hoop to keep it from running out, and rub it well with butter, then put in your cake, and lay your sweetmeats in three layers, with some cake between every layer; as soon as it is risen and coloured, cover it with paper before your oven is closed up, and bake it three hours. You may ice it or not, as you choose, directions being given for icing in the beginning of this chapter.

Prussian Cakes.

Dry half a pound of fine [...] well, a pound of fine sugar beaten and sifted, seven eggs, and beat the whites and yolks separately, the peels of two lemons grated fine, and the juice of one and a half, and a [Page] pound of almonds beat fine with rose water; as soon as the whites are beat to a froth put in the yolks, and every thing else, except the flour, and beat them together for half an hour; beat in the flour just before you put it into the oven.

Apricot Cakes.

Take a pound of nice ripe apricots, scald and peel them, take out the stones, then beat them in a mortar to pulp; boil half a pound of double refined sugar with a spoonful of water and skim it well, then put in the pulp of your apricots, and simmer them a quarter of an hour over a slow fire, stirring them softly all the time; then put it into shallow flat glasses, and when cold turn them out on glass plates, put them in a stove, and turn them once a day till they are dry.

Quince Cakes.

Take a pint of syrup of quinces and two quarts of rasberries picked, bruised, and rubbed through a coarse sieve, boil and clarify them together over a gentle fire, and as often as the scum rises skim it off; then add a pound and a half of sugar beat and sifted, and as much more boiled to a candy height, and pour it in hot; boil all up together, then take it off the fire, keep it stirring till it is nearly cold; then spread it on plates, and cut it out in cakes of what shape you like, and dry them in a stove.

Orange Cakes.

Take six fine Seville oranges with clear rinds and quarter them, boil them in two or three waters till they are tender and the bitterness gone off, skim them, and lay them on a napkin to dry, take all the skins and seeds out of the pulp with a knife, beat the peels fine in a mortar, put them to the pulp, weigh them, and put rather more than their weight of double-refined sugar into a preserving pan, with as much water as will dissolve it, boil it till it comes to sugar [Page] again, and then by degrees put in your orange-peels and pulps, stir them well before you set them on the fire▪ boil it very gently till it looks clear and thick, and then put them into shallow flat-bottomed glasses, set them in a stove and keep them in a constant and moderate heat, and when they are candied at the top turn them out upon glasses.

Bath Cakes.

Rub a pound of fresh butter into a pound of flour with a spoonful of good yeast warm, some cream, and make it into a light paste, cover it over with a cloth, and set it before the fire to rise; when it is risen, take four ounces of carraway comfits, work part of them in▪ and strew the rest on the top; make them into a round cake the size of a French roll, and bake them on plates. They eat well hot for breakfast, or for tea in the afternoon.

Black Caps.

Take twelve large pippins, cut them in halves, take out the cores, place them on a tin plate as close as they can lay, with the flat side downwards; beat the white of an egg to a froth▪ rub it over them; shred some lemon-peel very fine and strew over them, sift double-refined sugar over them, and bake them, half an hour; put them on a dish, and send them to table hot.

Green Caps.

Take twelve large green codlings, green them in the same manner as for preserving; beat up the white of an egg to a froth and rub over them, sift some double refined sugar over them; first put them on a tin plate▪ put them in the oven till they look bright, and sparkle like frost; then take them out and put them into the dish you intend to send them to table on; pour a fine custard round them, stick small flowers on every apple, and serve them up for a corner dish at dinner or supper.

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Gingerbread Cakes.

Rub one pound of butter into three pounds of flour, one pound of sugar, two ounces of ginger beat fine and sifted, and a large nutmeg grated; then take a pound of treacle, a gill of cream make them warm together, and make up the bread stiff, roll it out, and make it into thin cakes, or cut it round with a tea-cup or glass, or make it into [...], or any [...] shape you please, put it on oven-plates, and [...] it in a slack oven.

[...]roon Cakes.

Blanch a pound [...] almonds and beat them fine in a mortar, [...] little rose water to keep them from oiling; put [...] them a pound of double-refined sugar beat and sifted; then beat the whites of eight eggs to a high froth and put them in, and beat them well together, and drop them on wafer-paper, sift fine sugar over them, and bake them in a slack oven.

Lemon Biscuits.

Beat the yolks of ten eggs and the whites of five well together, with four spoonsful of orange flower water, till they are of a high froth, then put in a pound of double refined sugar beat and sifted, beat it one way for three quarters of an hour; put in half a pound of flour, and grate in the rind of two lemons, and put in the pulp of a small one, beat them well; butter your tin moulds and put it in, sift a little fine sugar over them and put them in a quick oven, but do not stop the mouth up at first for fear they should scorch.

French Biscuits.

Have a pair of clean scales, in one scale put three new-laid eggs, in the other as much dried flour, an equal weight with the eggs, and have ready as [Page] much powder sugar; first beat up the whites of the eggs well with a whisk till they are of a fine froth, then whip in half an ounce of candied lemon peel cut thin and fine, then by degrees whip in the flour and sugar, then put in the yolks, and with a spoon temper it well together; then shape your biscuits on fine white paper with a spoon, and sift powder sugar over them, bake them in a moderate oven, giving them a fine colour on the top; then with a fine knife cut them off from the paper and put them in dry boxes for use.

Drop Biscuits.

Beat the yolks of ten and the whites of six eggs well with a spoonful of rose water for half an hour, then put in three quarters of a pound of double-refined sugar, whisk them well for half an hour more, and then add one ounce of carraway-seeds bruised a little, and six ounces of fine flour; whisk in your flour gently, drop them on wafer-paper, and bake them in a moderate oven.

Common Biscuits.

Take eight eggs and beat them for half an hour, put in a pound of fine sugar beat and sifted, with the rind of a lemon grated, whisk it one hour, or till it looks light; then whisk in a pound of flour and a little rose-water▪ sugar them over, and bake them in tins, or in paper.

Sponge Biscuits.

Beat the yolks of twelve eggs for half an hour, then put in a pound and a half of fine sugar beat and sifted, whisk it well till you see it rise in bubbles, then beat the whites to a strong froth, and whisk them well with your sugar and yolks; beat in a pound of flour, with the rind of two lemons grated, butter your tin moulds, put them in, and sift fine powder sugar over them; put them in a hot oven, but do not stop the mouth of it at first; they will take half an hour baking.

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Spanish Biscuits.

Beat the yolks of eight eggs for half an hour, then beat in eight spoonsful of fine sugar, beat the whites to a strong froth, then beat them well with your yolks and sugar for half an hour; put in four spoonsful of fine flour, and a little lemon-peel grated; bake them on papers in a moderate oven.

Light Wigs.

Take a pound and a half of flour, mix in it a pint of warm milk and a gill of ale yeast, cover it up, and set it before the fire half an hour; take half a pound of sugar, the same of butter, work it all into a paste, and make it into wigs with as little flour as possible, and a few carraway-seeds▪ put them on oven-plates, and bake them in a quick oven.

Buns.

Take two pounds of fine flour, a pint of good ale yeast, put a little sack in the yeast, and three eggs well beat▪ knead all these together▪ with a little warm milk, a little nutmeg, and a little salt, lay it before the fire till it rises very light then knead in a pound of fresh butter, and a pound of carrawaycomfits; make them in what shape you please▪ put them on buttered paper, and bake them in a quick oven.

CHAP. XXVIII.
HOGS PUDDINGS, SAUSAGES, &c.

Almond Hogs Puddings

TAKE two pounds of beef-suet or marrow shred very small, a pound and a half of almonds [Page] blanched and beat very fine with rose-water, one pound of grated bread, a pound and a quarter of fine sugar, a little salt, half an ounce of mace, nutmeg and cinnamon together, twelve yolks of eggs, four whites, a pint of sack, a pint and a half of thick cream, some rose or orange-flower water; boil the cream, tie the saffron in a bag, and dip it in the cream to colour it; first beat your eggs very well, then stir in your almonds, then the spice, the salt and suet, and mix all your ingredients together; fill your guts but half full, put some bits of citron in the guts as you fill them, tie them up, and boil them a quarter of an hour.

Another Way.

Take a pound of beef-marrow chopped fine, half a pound of sweet almonds blanched, and beat fine with a little orange-flower or rose-water, half a pound of white bread grated fine, half a pound of currants clean washed and picked, a quarter of a pound of fine sugar, a quarter of an ounce of mace, nutmeg, and cinnamon together, of each an equal quantity and half a pint of sack; mix all well together with half a pint of good cream and the yolks of four eggs; fill your guts half full, tie them up, and boil them a quarter of an hour, and prick them as they boil, to keep the guts from breaking. You may leave out the currants for a change▪ but then you must add a quarter of a pound more of sugar.

A third Way.

Half a pint of cream, a quarter of a pound of sugar, a quarter of a pound of currants, the crumb of a halfpenny roll grated fine, six large pippins pared and chopped fine, a gill of sack, or two spoonsful of rose-water, six bitter almonds blanched and beat fine, the yolks of two eggs and one white beat fine; mix all together, fill the guts better than half full, and boil them a quarter of an hour.

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Hogs Puddings with Currants.

Take three pounds of grated bread to four pounds of beef-suet finely shred, two pounds of currants clean picked and washed, cloves, mace, and cinnamon, of each a quarter of an ounce finely beaten, a little salt, a pound and a half of sugar, a pint of sack, a quart of cream▪ a little rose-water, twenty eggs well beaten, but half the whites: mix all these well together, fill the guts half full, boil them a little, and prick them as they boil, to keep the guts from breaking; take them up upon clean cloths, then lay them on your dish: or when you use them boil them a few minutes, or eat them cold.

Black Puddings.

When you kill your hog, get a peck of grets, boil them half an hour in water, then drain them and put them in a clean tub or large pan; save two quarts of the blood, and keep stirring it till the blood is quite cold, then mix it with your grets, and stir them well together; season it with a large spoonful of salt, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, mace, and nutmeg together, an equal quantity of each, dry it, beat it well, and mix it in; take a little winter savory, sweet marjoram, and thyme, pennyroyal stripped of the stalks, and chopped very fine, just enough to season them, and to give them a flavour, but no more. The next day take the leaf of the hog and cut it into dice; scrape and wash the guts very clean, then tie one end, and begin to fill them: mix in the fat as you fill them, (be sure to put in a good deal of fat) fill the skins three parts full, tie the other end, and make your puddings what length you please: prick them with a pin, put them in a kettle of boiling water, and boil them very softly an hour; then take them out and lay them on clean straw.

In Scotland they make a pudding with the blood of a goose; chop off the head and save the blood, stir it till it is cold, then mix it with grets, spice, [Page] salt and sweet herbs, according to their fancy, and some beef-suet chopped; take the skin off the neck, then pull out the windpipe and fat, fill the skin, tie it at both ends; so make a pie of the giblets, and lay the pudding in the middle; or you may leave the guts out if you please.

Savoloys.

Take six pounds of young pork, free it from bone and skin, and salt it, with one ounce of salt-petre and a pound of common salt, for two days; chop it very fine, put in three tea-spoonsful of pepper▪ twelve sage leaves chopped fine, and a pound of grated bread; mix it well, and fill the guts, and bake them half an hour in a slack oven, and eat them either hot or cold.

Fine Sausages.

You must take six pounds of good pork, free from skin, gristles, and fat, cut it small, and beat it in a mortar till it is very fine; then shred six pounds of beef-suet very fine and free from skin, shred it as fine as possible; take a good deal of sage, wash it very clean, pick off the leaves, and shred it very fine; spread your meat on a clean dresser or table, then shake the sage all over, about three large spoonsful, shred the thin rind of a middling lemon very fine and throw over, with as many sweet herbs, when shred fine, as will fill a large spoon; grate two nutmegs over, throw over two tea-spoonsful of pepper, a large spoonful of salt, then throw over the suet, and mix it all well together; put it down close in a pot; when you use them, roll them up with as much egg as will make them roll smooth; make them the size of a sausage, and fry them in butter or good dripping; be sure it be hot before you put them in, and keep rolling them about; when they are thorough hot, and of a fine light brown, they are enough. You may chop this meat very fine, if you do not like it beat. Veal [Page] eats well done thus, or veal and pork together. You may clean some guts and fill them.

Common Sausages.

Take three pounds of nice pork, fat and lean together, without skin or gristles, chop it as fine as possible, season it with a tea-spoonful of beaten pepper, and two of salt, some sage shred fine, about three tea-spoonsful▪ and mix it well together; have the guts very nicely cleaned, and fill them, or put them down in a pot, so roll them of what size you please, and fry them. Beef makes very good sausages.

Oxford Sausages.

Take a pound of lean veal, a pound of young pork, fat and lean, free from skin and gristle, [...] pound of beef-suet, chopped all fine together; put in half a pound of grated bread, half the peel of a lemon shred fine, a nutmeg grated, six sage leaves washed and chopped very fine, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and two of salt, some thyme, savory, and marjoram shred fine; mix it all well together and put it close down in a pan; when you use it, roll it out the size of a common sausage, and fry them in fresh butter of a fine brown, or broil them over a clear fire, and send them to table as hot as possible.

Bologna Sausages.

Take a pound of bacon, fat and lean together, a pound of beef, a pound of veal, a pound of pork, a pound of beef-suet, cut them small, and chop them fine, take a small handful of sage, pick off the leaves, chop it fine with a few sweet herbs, season it pretty high with pepper and salt. You must have a large gut, and fill it, then set on a sauce-pan of water, when it boils put it in, and prick the gut for fear of bursting; boil it softly an hour, then lay it on clean straw to dry.

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Andouilles or Calves Chitterlings.

Take some of the largest calves guts, cleanse them, cut them in pieces proportionable to the length of the puddings you design to make, and tie one end to these pieces; then take some bacon, with a calves udder and chaldron blanched, and cut it into dice or slices, put them into a stew-pan, and season with fine spice pounded, a bay leaf, some salt, pepper, and shallot cut small, and about half a pint of cream▪ toss it up, take off the pan, and thicken your mixture with four or five yolks of eggs, and some crumbs of bread: then fill up your chitterlings with the stuffing, keep it warm, tie the other end with packthread, blanch and boil them like hogs chitterlings, let them grow cold in their own liquor before you serve them up; then boil them over a moderate fire▪ and serve them up pretty hot. These sort of andouilles or puddings must be made in summer, when hogs are seldom killed.

CHAP. XXIX.

POTTING.

Proper Rules to be observed in Potting

WHEN you intend to bake your meat, &c. before you send it to the oven be sure to season it properly, and cover it with butter, tie it over with strong paper, and bake it gently and well till it is tender. As soon as it comes from the oven, drain all the butter and gravy from the meat, and carefully pick out all the gristles and skins, for if they are left in, when you [...]ut the meat they will spoil the beauty of it, and the gravy would soon turn [Page] it sour. Be sure to beat your seasoning very fine, and sift it through a sieve before you put it to your meat, and put it in by degrees as you beat the meat; and when you put your meat into pots, press it well down, and never pour your clarified butter over your meat till it is quite cold. When you clarify butter put it in a deep dish, and set it before the fire to melt; and when it is melted drain it from the settlings at the bottom, and if any scum rises skim it off, or put it into a clean stew-pan and melt it gently, skim it and pour it from the settlings; (as it is the whey that is at the bottom, consequently it will turn your potted meats, birds, &c. sour, and soon make them mould and stink) if you want to turn it whole out of your pots, butter them well before you put in the meat, and when you want to turn them out, put the pot a few minutes in hot water and then it will slip out.

Venison.

Take a piece of neck of venison, or a shoulder, fat and lean together, take out the bones, lay it in a deep dish, and sprinkle it over with beaten mace, cloves, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, cover it over with butter, tie brown paper over it, and bake it till it is tender, when it comes out of the oven take it out of the liquor hot, lay it on a coarse cloth to drain, take off all the skin and gristles, beat it well in a marble mortar, fat and lean together▪ skim of the butter of the gravy, and put in; season it with beaten mace, cloves, nutmeg, pepper and salt; when it is well beat put it down close in your pots; when cold pour clarified butter over it, and tie it down with paper.

Beef.

Take a piece of lean beef, about twelve pounds, and rub it well with one ounce of salt-petre and brown sugar, let it lay for twenty-four hours, then wash it clean, and wipe it dry with a cloth, cut it in [Page] pieces, and put it into an earthen pan, just cover it with water, season it with beaten mace, cloves, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, put a pound of fresh butter on the top, tie it over with coarse paper, and bake it four hours; when it comes out of the oven, take it out of the gravy, and lay it on a coarse cloth to drain; then pick out all the sinews and skins, and beat it well in a marble mortar; clarify a pound of fresh butter, and as you beat the beef, by degrees put in the butter, season it with beaten mace, cloves, nutmeg, pepper, and salt to your palate; when it is well beat put it down hard in your pots, and pour clarified butter over it.

Beef like Venison.

Take any quantity of the lean part of a buttock of beef you want, and to every eight pounds of beef take four ounces of salt-petre, four ounces of petre-salt, a pint of white salt, and one ounce of sal prunella, beat all the salts well, mix them together, rub the salts into the beef, and let it lie four days; turn it once a day; then put it into an earthen pan, cover it with pump water and a little of its own brine, then bake it in an oven, with houshold bread, till it is as tender as a chicken [...] [...] [...]hen it is taken out of the oven, take it out of the gravy to drain, take out all the sinews and skins, and pound it in a marble mortar; season it with beaten mace, cloves, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, clarify a pound of fresh butter, and as you beat it mix the butter and spices in; when it is well beat press it down close into your pots, and when it is cold cover it one inch thick with clarifyed butter, and when the butter is cold tie it over with white paper, and it will keep a long while.

Tongues.

Take a neat's tongue, rub it with a pound of common salt, one ounce of salt-petre, one of sal prunella, and half a pound of coarse sugar mixed together; turn and rub it every day for a week, then take it [Page] out of the pickle, cut off the root, wash it clean, and boil it till it is tender; then peel it; then take your tongue and season it with beaten mace, cloves, nutmeg, pepper, and salt; then put it in a pan, and melt butter enough to cover it all over, tie coarse paper overit, and bake it one hour; then take it out, let it stand to cool, then rub a little fresh spice on it, and when it is quite cold put it into a long potting-pot; when the butter is cold you bake it in, take it clean from the gravy and set it in an earthen pan before the fire, and when it is melted pour it over the tongue; and when it is cold, clarify butter enough, and pour over it till it is one inch above the tongue.

Tongue and Fowl.

Take and boil a pickled tongue, peel it, and cut off the root; take a large fowl and bone it, a goose and bone it, a turkey and bone it; beat a quarter of an ounce of mace, the same of cloves, one large nutmeg, a spoonful of pepper, mixed with a little salt, season the inside of the fowl well, and the tongue, put the tongue into the fowl; then season the goose, and fill the goose with the fowl and tongue, then serve the turkey the same, and it will look nearly like whole; lay it in a pan that will just hold it, and melt fresh butter enough to cover it, send it to the oven, and bake it two hours; when it is taken out of the oven, take it out of the butter, and lay it on a coarse cloth to drain till it is cold; and when the butter is cold, take it clean off the gravy, and lay it in a dish before the fire to melt; put your turkey, &c. into a pot, and pour the butter over it; when it is cold clarify some more butter, and let it be one inch thick above the meat, and it will keep a long time; when you cut it, cut it crossways down through the middle, and it will look beautiful; garnish it with parsley, and it makes a pretty corner dish for dinner, or side dish for supper. You may leave out the turkey if you please.

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Hare.

Hang a hare up for four or five days, then case it, and cut it in quarters; put it in a pot, season it with beaten cloves, mace, pepper, and salt, put a pound of butter over it, and bake it four hours in a gentle oven; when it is taken out of the oven pick it from the bones, and pound it well in a mortar with the butter that it was baked in, skimmed clean off the gravy; season it with beaten cloves, mace, pepper, and salt to your palate▪ beat it till it is fine and smooth, then put it down close in your potting pots, and cover it over with clarified butter; tie it over with white paper.

Goose.

Pick, draw, and bone a fine goose, singe it, season the inside with beaten mace, cloves, pepper, and salt, and fill it with force-meat, put it into a pan, and sprinkle some of the seasoning over it; melt fresh butter enough to cover it, tie it over with brown paper, and bake it for one hour and a half; when it is taken out of the oven take it out of the butter, and lay it on a coarse cloth to drain till it is cold, and take the butter clean off the gravy▪ when it is cold put it in a dish before the fire to melt, put the goose in a pot, pour the butter over it; and when it is cold clarify some fresh butter, and put it half an inch thick above the goose.

Turkey

Pick, draw, and bone a fine turkey, bone a fowl, season the inside of the fowl and turkey with beaten cloves, mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, put the fowl into the turkey, put it into a pan, and season it well with the above seasoning; melt butter enough to cover it, tie a paper over, and bake it two hours; when it is taken out of the oven take it out of the butter, and lay it on a coarse cloth to drain till it is cold; when the butter is cold, take it clean off the gravy, put it in a dish before the fire to melt, put the [Page] turkey into a pan, pour the butter over it, and when it is cold clarify more butter, and pour over it half an inch thick.

Note. You may put a goose and turkey together, bone them, lay them flat open, and season them as above, and put the turkey in the goose▪ then roll them up as collared beef very tight, and as short as you can, and bind it very fast with strong [...]ape, bake it in a long pan, with plenty of butter, till it is tender; then take it out of the hot liquor, and set it by till next day; then unbind it, place it in a pot, and pour clarified butter over it.

Chickens or Pigeons.

Pick, draw, and cut off their legs, wipe them dry with a cloth, but do not wash them, season them, inside and out▪ with beaten mace, cloves, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, put them in a pan, and cover them with butter, bake them one hour; when they are taken out of the oven take them out of the butter, put them in potting-pots, pour the butter clean from the gravy and pour on them▪ when they are cold clarify more fresh butter and pot over them, and tie them over with white paper.

Moore Game or Pheasants.

Pick and draw your game, wipe them clean with a cloth, singe them, season them inside and out well with beaten mace, cloves, nutmeg, pepper, and salt; break the breast bones down as flat as you can, lay them in an earthen pan, cover them with butter, and bake them one hour; when they are taken out of the oven, take them out of the gravy and butter, lay them on a coarse cloth to drain till they are cold, then put them into pots breast upwards, and cover them half an inch thick above the breasts with clarified butter; when they are cold tie white paper over them.

Woodcocks or Snipes.

Pick your woodcocks or snipes, draw out the trails, [Page] run their bills through their thighs, put their legs through each other▪ and [...] feet upon their breasts; season them [...] mace, pepper, and salt; put them into a [...] pan, cover them with fresh butter, tie a paper [...] them, and bake them half an hour; when they are taken out of the oven, take them out of the butter, put them in pots, and pour the butter from the settlings upon them; when they are cold, clarify more butter and pour over them, about half an inch above the breasts, and tie white paper over them.

Wheat-Ears, Larks, &c.

Pick and draw them, singe them, season them inside and out with beaten cloves, mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, put them into a pan, cover them with butter, and bake them twenty minutes; (or put them into a stew-pan, cover them with butter, cover them close, and stew them over a slow fire for twenty minutes) then take them out of the butter, put them into pots, and pour the butter from the settlings over them; when they are cold, clarify more butter, and pour over them.

Marble Veal.

Take a pickled tongue, and boil it till it is very tender, peel it, cut it in thin slices, and pound it well in a mortar, with a pound of fresh butter and a little beaten mace, till it is like a paste; stew four pounds of lean veal, and beat it the same way; then put some veal into a large potting-pot, then some tongue in lumps over the veal, (but do not lay the tongue in any form but in lumps) fill your pot [...]rly full with veal, press it very hard down, and pour clarified butter over it; and when you send it to table cut it across in thin slices, put it into a dish, and garnish it with curled parsley. Mind and keep it in a cool dry place, tied close with paper.

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Savory Veal Cake.

Take six pounds of lean veal, and stew it till it is very tender, pick the meat from the skins, and beat it well in a mortar, with half a pound of fresh butter, season it with beaten cloves, mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt; butter a potting-pot, and press it down close in it, let it stand till next day; then put the pot in hot water a few minutes, and it will come out; then put it into a dish; work some butter well with your hands in cold spring water, put it over the cake, and ornament it with leaves and flowers, as your fancy leads you, and put a bird moddled in butter, or any thing you please at the top.

Salmon.

Take a piece of fresh salmon, scale it, and wipe it clean with a cloth: let your piece or pieces be cut so as it will lie neatly in your pot, season it with cloves, mace▪ Jamaica pepper and black pepper beat fine, mixed with salt, a little sal prunella bruised fine, and rub the bone with it; season it with a little spice, pour clarified butter over it till it is covered, and bake it well; when it is taken out of the oven, take it out carefully, and put it on a coarse cloth to drain; when cold season it well▪ and lay it in the pots, and cover it with clarified butter.

Or this way: scale and clean your salmon, cut it down the back, dry it well with a cloth, and cut it as near the shape of your pot as you can; take two nutmegs and one ounce of cloves and mace beaten, half an ounce of white pepper, and one of salt; then take out all the bones, and cut the jowl below the fins, and cut off the tail, season the scaly side first, lay that at the bottom of your pot, then rub the seasoning, on the other side, cover it with a dish, and let it stand all night; put it in double, the scaly side top and bottom; before you put it in the pot, put some butter at the bottom, and when it is in put butter at the top, cover the pot with a stiff coarse paste, and bake it three hours, if a large fish; if a [Page] small one, two hours; and when it is taken out of the oven, let it stand half an hour, then uncover it, and raise it up at one end, that the gravy may run out; then put a board or trencher, with a wait upon it, to press out the gravy; when the butter is cold take it off clear from the gravy, add some more to it, and put it in a pan before the fire; when it is melted pour it over the salmon; and when it is cold tie paper over it, and keep it in a cool dry place. As to the seasoning, it must be regulated according to your palate, more or less; and be sure that no gravy, or whey of the butter is put into your pots, as that will prevent its keeping long good.

Note. In this manner you may pot carp, tench, or trout, and many other sorts of fish.

Pike.

Take and scale it clean, cut off the head, split it and take out the chine bone; then strew all over the inside with bay salt and pepper, roll it up round, and lay it in a pot, cover it with butter, and bake it an hour; then take it out and lay it on a coarse cloth to drain; when it is cold put it into the pot, and cover it with clarified butter. You may use a little beaten cloves and mace, with the bay salt and pepper, if you like it.

Chars.

These fish are peculiar to the lakes in Westmoreland, and much admired, and are potted thus: skin, gut, and wash them clean, cut off the heads, fins, and tails, scour them well with salt, and wipe them dry with a cloth; turn them round in round potting-pots, or lay them lengthways in a long potting-pot; first season them with beaten cloves, mace, pepper, and salt, cover them with butter, and bake them half an hour in a quick oven; then take them out, and lay them on a coarse cloth to drain; when they are cold season them afresh, and lay them in your pots; [Page] then take the butter they were baked in clean from the gravy of the fish, put it in a dish before the fire to melt, and when it is melted pour the clear butter over the fish, and when they are cold put a little more clarified butter half an inch thick over them and tie them over with paper.

Lampreys.

Skin them▪ cleanse them with salt, and wipe them dry with a cloth; season them with beaten mace, cloves, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, lay them in a pan, cover them with clarified butter, and bake them one hour; when they are baked, order them the same as the chars.

Eels.

Take the largest eels you can get, skin, gut, and wash them clean, scour them with salt, and dry them with a cloth▪ cut them in pieces about four inches long, season them with beaten cloves, mace, nutmeg, pepper, salt, and a little sal prunella beat fine, lay them in a pan, cover them with clarified butter, and bake them half an hour in a quick oven; (if a flow oven longer, but that must be determined according to the size of your eels) when they are baked, take them out of the butter with a fork, and lay them on a coarse cloth to drain; when they are cold, season them again with the same seasoning, only leave out the sal prunella, lay them in your pots close; then take the but [...] clean off the gravy they were baked in, and set it in a dish before the fire; when it is melted, pour the clear butter over the eels; and when it is cold, clarify a little more butter and put over it; then tie them down with paper. You may bone the eels if you chuse it, but then do not put in any sal prunella.

Lobsters.

Take a fine live lobster, or two middling-sized ones, put a skewer in the vent to prevent any water getting in, and boil it for three quarters of an hour; when it is done, pick all the meat out of the body, claws, and tail, (be sure to put in the spawn if you have any) and beat it to a paste in a marble mortar; [Page] melt a quarter of a pound of good fresh butter and put in it, season it with beaten cloves, mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt to your palate; when it is beat fine put it down as close as you can in your pots; clarify some butter and put over it a quarter of an inch thick; when it is cold tie it over with paper. Or you may put the [...] in as whole as you can; take it out of the tail, claws, and body, lay it as close as you can together, season it with beaten cloves, mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and pour clarified butter over it.

Note. You may pot crabs, or any other large shell fish in the same manner.

LITTLE COLD DISHES.

Salamungundy.

TAKE two pickled herrings and bone them, a handful of parsley picked and washed clean, the breast of a roasted chicken or fowl, and the legs separate, (take off the skin of the chicken or fowl,) four eggs boiled hard, chop all separate very fine▪ that is, the herrings by themselves, the whites and yolks of eggs, the breast and legs of the chicken or fowl, and the parsley by themselves; scrape or chop some boiled lean ham very fine, or some Dutch or hung beef▪ turn a small China dish bottom uppermost in another China dish, just to fit it, then take a tea-spoon and lay every thing separate in shapes▪ that is, a shape of parsley, then of herrings, then of eggs, and so on till you have covered your dish, and all your ingredients are used; garnish the edge of your dish with curled parsley or flowers; or in winter chop a few capers and anchovies fine, and garnish it with them.

Or in this manner: if you want it for a middle dish, take a round dish, and turn a small China bason upside down in it, then with a tea-spoon lay your different things in shapes on it; put a sprig of myrtle, or a bunch of flowers in the middle, and garnish as before.

[Page] You may use cold veal, beef, mutton, or pork boiled, beet-root, apples, onions, cellery, or any thing you fancy chopped fine; the more different colours you have, the better it looks, as it is more fancy than otherwise, which must direct you. It is impossible for me to direct so minutely as I could wish.

Dutch or Hung Beef.

Boil a piece of Dutch or hung beef, and when it is cold scrape it fine, or grate it with a grater, put it in a small dish heaped up as high as you can, and garnish it with curled parsley or flowers.

Dutch or Hung Beef on Tops and Bottoms.

Tops and bottoms are a kind of biscuit bought at the biscuit-bakers▪ take and boil a piece of Dutch or hung beef, and scrape or grate it, split the tops and bottoms in two, and butter them▪ heap the beef on them, and pile them up in a dish as high as you can; stick curled parsley in them, and garnish the edge of the dish with curled parsley or flowers. It is a pretty corner dish for supper.

Dutch or British Herrings.

Take and wash them, peel the skins off and pick the flesh from the bones; peel them in small long pieces, lay them in a dish, and garnish with curled parsley.

Ham.

Take a piece of lean boiled ham, and scrape or grate it, heap it up high in a small dish, and garnish it with curled parsley.

CHAP. XXX.
CARVING.

To cut up a Turkey

RAISE the leg, open the joint, but be sure not to take off the leg; lace down both sides of the [Page] breast, and open the pinion of the breast, but do not take it off, raise the merry-thought, between the breast-bone and the top, raise the brawn, and turn it outward on both sides, (but be careful not to cut it off nor break it) divide the wing pinions from the joint next the body, and stick each pinion where the brawn was turned out, cut off the sharp end of the pinion, and the middle piece will fit the place exactly.

A bustard, capon, or pheasant, is cut up in the same manner.

To rear a Goose.

Cut off both legs in the manner of shoulders of lamb, take off the belly-piece close to the extremity of the breast, lace the goose down both sides of the breast, about half an inch from the sharp bone, divide the pinions and the flesh first laced with your knife, which must be raised from the bone, and taken off with the pinion from the body▪ then cut off the merry-thought, and cut another slice from the breast-bone quite through; lastly, turn up the carcase, cutting it asunder, the back above the loin bones.

To unbrace a Mallad or Duck.

First raise the pinion and legs, but do not cut them off, then raise the merry-thought from the breast, and lace it down both sides with your knife.

To unlace a Cony.

The back must be turned downward, and the apron divided from the belly; this done, slip in your knife between the kidneys, loosening the flesh on each side; then turn the belly, cut the back crols ways between the wings, draw your knife down both sides of the back-bone, dividing the sides and leg from the back. Observe not to pull the leg too violently from the bone▪ when you open the side, but with great exactness lay open the sides from the s [...]ut to the shoulder; and then put the legs together.

To wing a Partridge or Quail.

After having raised the legs and wings, use salt and powdered ginger for sauce.

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To allay a Pleasant or Teal.

This differs in nothing from the foregoing, but that you must use salt only for sauce.

To dismember a hern.

Cut off the legs, lace the breast down each side, and open the breast pinion without cutting it off; raise the merry-thought between the breast bone and the top of it; then raise the brawn, turning it outward on both sides; but break it not, nor cut it off; sever the wing pinion from the joint nearest the body, sticking the pinions in the place where the brawn was. Remember to cut off the sharp end of the pinion, and supply the place with the middle piece.

In this manner some people cut up a capon or pheasant, and likewise a bittern, using no sauce but salt.

To thigh a Woodcock.

The legs and wings must be raised in the manner of a fowl, only open the head for the brains; and so you thigh curlews, plovers, or snipes, using no sauce but salt.

To display a Crane.

After his legs are unfolded, cut off the wings, take them up, and sauce them with powderedginger, vinegar, salt, and mustard.

To lift a Swan.

Slit it fairly down the middle of the breast, clean through the back, from the neck to the rump, divide it in two parts, neither breaking nor tearing the flesh; then lay the halves in a charger, the slit sides downwards, throw salt upon them, and set them again on the table. The sauce must be chaldron served up in saucers.

CHAP. XXXI.
COLLARING.

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BEEF.

TAKE a thin flank of beef, bone it, and take off the skins, and salt it with two ounces of saltpetre, one ounce of sal prunella, four ounces of bay salt, all beat fine, half a pound of the coarsest sugar you can get, and two pounds of common salt, all mixed well together, turn it every day, and rub it with the brine for a fortnight; then take it out of the pickle, wash it well, and wipe it dry with a cloth; take a quarter of an ounce of cloves, the same of mace, twelve corns of all-spice, one nutmeg, and beat them fine, mix them with a spoonful of pepper, a large handful of parsley and all sorts of sweet herbs chopped fine, and a little lemon-peel; sprinkle them all over the beef, and roll it up as tight as you can; put a coarse cloth round it, tie it round tight with beggars tape, and boil it in a large copper of water; if large, six hours; if small, five; then take it out, and fresh tie each end with packthread, put it in a press, (if you have no press put it between two boards, with a large weight upon it, till it is cold) then take it out of the binding, cut it across in thin slices, put it in a dish, and garnish with curled parsley.

Breast of Veal,

Take a fine large breast of veal, bone it, and take off the outside skin, beat it well with a rolling-pin, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, and strew over it a quarter of an ounce of beaten cloves and mace, half a nutmeg, a little pepper and salt, some sweet herbs and parsley shred fine, and a little lemon-peel; [Page] then roll it up tight, wrap it in a clean cloth, bind it round with beggars tape, and boil it two hours and a half in plenty of water; (observe that your water boils before you put it in) when it is done take it out, tie it at each end afresh with packthread, and press it in the same manner as the beef; when it is cold take it out of the cloth, and put it in a pickle made as follows: to a pint of salt and water put half a pint of good vinegar, when you use it take it out and cut it across, [...] it in a dish, and garnish it with parsley.

Gallentine of a Breast of Veal.

Take a fine large breast of veal, bone it, and take off the outside skin, beat it well with a rolling-pin, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, season it with pepper, salt, beaten cloves and mace; then make aumlets of different colours thus▪ take the yolks of twenty-four eggs in three separate parcels, beat them well, colour one green with the juice of spinach, another with cochineal boiled in a little brandy, and the other plain; rub three soup plates with a little sweet oil, and put them in separately▪ have a broad stew-pan with some water boiling, sufficient to come up to the edge of the plate, put in the plates, cover them over with three plates, and let them boil gently till the aumlets are done; then take them out, turn them out of the plates, cut them across in slips, and lay them on the veal, first green, then red, then yellow, till you have covered the veal; then roll it up tight, put a cloth tight round it, bind it well with a fillet, and boil it in plenty of water for two hours and a half; then take it up, tie the ends close with packthread, and press it the same as collared beef; when it is cold untie it, cut it in slices across, lay it in a dish, and garnish with curled parsley.

Venison.

Take a breast and neck of venison together, bone it, and take off the skin and sinews, cut it into three square collars, and lard it with fat bacon, season it with beaten mace, cloves, nutmeg, pepper, salt, and sweet herbs chopped fine; roll up your collars tight, [Page] tie them close with coarse tape, put them into deep pots, sprinkle some of the seasoning over them with fresh butter and some bay leaves, and over all some beef-suet shred fine; then put a c [...]se paste over your pots, and bake them four or five hours; then take them out of the oven, and let them [...] a little; take out your venison, and let it drain well from the gravy, add more butter to the fat, and set it over a gentle fire to clarify; then take it off, let it stand a little, and skim it well; have pots ready to hold each collar, put them in, strew a little [...] same seasoning over them, and cover the venison with your clarified butter and fat, but be sure it is [...] inch above the venison; when it is thoroughly co [...] tie it down with double paper, and lay a clean tile on the top; when you want to use a pot, put it a minute or two in boiling water, and it will turn out whole; put it in a dish, and stick it round with bay leaves, with a sprig of myrtle at the top.

Calf's Head.

Take a calf's head with the skin on, and scald the hair off, rip it down the face, and take the skin and meat clean off the bones, steep it in warm milk till it is white; then lay it flat, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, and strew over it beaten cloves, mace, pepper, salt, sweet herbs and a handful of parsley chopped fine, two score of oysters blanched and chopped fine, half a pound of beef-marrow chopped small, and lay them all in the inside of the skin; cut off the ears, cut them open. and lay them flat on the thin part; roll it up tight, (but begin at the thin end first) bind it hard with a fillet, wrap it in a clean cloth, and boil it gently for four hours; when it is done tie it tight at each end, and press it the same as beef; when cold put it in a pickle, the same as a breast of veal. and when you use it cut it across, put the slices in a dish, and garnish with curled parsley.

Pig.

Kill a fine young roasting pig, scald off the hair, and draw out the intrails, wash it clean, and with a [Page] sharp knife rip it down the belly, and take out all the bones, rub it over with the yolks of eggs, and season it with beaten cloves, mace, pepper, salt, and a few sage leaves chopped fine; make aumlets the same as for a breast of veal in gallentine, put them on in the same manner, roll it up tight, put it in a cloth, bind it with a fillet, and boil it two hours in plenty of soft water; put into the water half a pint of vinegar, a bundle of sweet herbs, a handful of salt, and when the water, &c. boils, put it in; when it is done take it out, and tie it afresh at each end with packthread; when it is cold put it into an earthen pan, with the liquor it was boiled in; when you want to use it take it out, cut it across in thin slices, put it in a dish, and garnish with curled parsley.

Salmon.

Take a side of salmon, cut off about a pound of the tail, wash your large piece very well, dry it with a cloth, and rub it over with yolks of eggs; then make a force-meat with the remains of the tail you cut off, with about a score of oysters parboiled, the meat of a lobster, the yolks of four eggs boiled hard, fix anchovies, a handful of sweet herbs and parsley chopped fine; season all [...]ese with beaten cloves, mace, pepper and salt, [...] in a handful of grated bread, mix it up with the yolks of six eggs into a paste, lay it over the [...] on, roll it up tight, roll a cloth round it, and bind it with broad tape; then boil it in water, salt, and vinegar, a bunch of sweet herbs, sliced ginger▪ and nutmeg; let it boil gently for two hours; when it is done take it up, tie both ends afresh with packthread▪ put it into your sousingpan, and when the liquor is cold put it to your salmon, and keep it covered till you want to use it; then take it out, cut it in slices, put it into a dish, and garnish with parsley.

Eels.

Take as many of the largest eels you can get as you want, skin them, but do not open the bellies, slit them down the back, cut off the heads, and cut out the bones, take out the guts, wipe the eels dry with [Page] a cloth, rub the inside over with the yolks of eggs, and strew over them beaten cloves, mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt, all sorts of sweet herbs and plenty of parsley shred fine; begin at the tail-end, and roll them up tight, roll a cloth round them, and tie it tight at each end; have a sauce-pan of water boiling, with half a pint of vinegar, one ounce of allspice, and a bundle of sweet herbs; boil them according to the size of your eels till they are tender; then take them out, and when the liquor is cold put them in an earthen pan, and pour the liquor over them; when you want to use them take them out, put them in a dish, either whole or cut in slices, and garnish with parsley.

CHAP. XXXII.
SALTING AND SOUSING.

Pork Hams.

AFTER your hog is killed, cut the leg and part of the hind loin together, cut it handsome for a ham; then rub it well with common salt, and let it lay on a board twenty-four hours; then for every ham take four ounces of bay-salt, two ounces of salt-petre, two ounces of sal prunella, beat them fine, and mix them with half a pound of coarse sugar and two pounds of common salt; rub the hams well with it, and lay them in a salting-pan, or hollow tray, and turn and rub them with the brine every day for a fortnight; then take them out, and wipe them dry with a cloth, and smoke them with a sawdust fire, with three or four handsful of juniper berries in it, till they are thoroughly dry; then hang them in a cold dry place, but be sure you do not let [Page] them touch against a wall, nor against one another. In this manner you may cure [...]eats tongues, and either smoke them, or boil them out of the pickle.

Beef Hams.

Take the leg of a fat, but small Scotch or Welch [...] and cut it ham fashion; take four ounces of bay-salt, two ounces of salt-petre, and two ounces of sal prunella, beat them fine, and mix them with half a pound of coarse sugar, two pounds of common salt, and a handful of juniper berries bruised; (this quantity for about fifteen pounds weight, and so on accordingly) rub it well with the ingredients, and turn it every day for a month; then take it out, and rub it with bran or saw-dust, dry it the same as pork hams, and then hang it in a cool dry place; you may cut a piece off to boil, or cut it in rashers, as you want to use it, either as Duck beef, or like ham, with poached eggs, or boil it altogether, by observing the directions given for boiling hams.

Veal Hams.

Take a leg and part of a loin of veal together, and [...]ut it like a ham; take four ounces of bay salt, two ounces of salt-petre, two ounces of sal prunella, and a handful of juniper berries, all bruised fine; mix them with half a pound of coarse sugar and a pound of common salt; rub the ham well, and lay it in a hollow tray, with the back-side downwards, turn it, and rub it well with the pickle every day for a fortnight; then dry it the same as pork hams. You may boil it, or parboil and roast it, which you please. This pickle will be [...] to cure pork in.

Mutton Hams.

Take [...] hind quarter of fat mutton, cut it like ham, [...] veal ham; then boil it, cut it [...] as you w [...]nt it, and just warm them [...] g [...]diron. A leg of mutton may be pickled in the same manner.

Tongues.

Take two [...] tongues, cut off the roots, and cut a nick in the under [...] wash them clean, and dry them [...] a cloth; then rub them with common [Page] salt, and lay them on a board all night; the next day take two ounces of bay salt, two ounces of salt-petre, one of sal prunella, and a handful of juniper berries, all bruised fine; mix them with a quarter of a pound of coarse sugar and one pound of common salt; rub them well with the ingredients, put them in a long pan, and turn and rub them with the pickle every day for a fortnight; then either dry them, or dress them out of the pickle.

Dutch Beef.

Take the lean part of a fine buttock of beef, rub it well with coarse sugar, and let it lay in a pan or tray two or three hours, turning and rubbing it two or three times; then take half a pound of bay salt, two ounces of salt-petre, two of sal prunella, a handful of juniper berries bruised fine, and a pound of common salt; rub it well with them, and turn and rub it with the pickle for a fortnight; then roll it tight in a coarse cloth, put it in a cheese-press a day and night, and then hang it to dry in a wide chimney; when you boil it put it in a cloth, and it will eat as fine as Dutch beef.

Yorkshire Hung Beef.

Take a buttock or ribs of beef, (cut the buttock in two) take half a pound of bay salt, four ounces of salt-petre, four ounces of sal prunella, and two handsful of juniper berries, all bruised fine; mix them with a pound of coarse sugar and three pounds of common salt, (this will serve for twenty pounds weight) rub the beef well with the ingredients, lay it in a hollow tray or pan, and turn and rub it every day for a fortnight with the pickle; then take it out, dry it with a cloth, and hang it up to the kitchen cieling, or in a chimney where there is not too great a fire, to dry; then boil it as you want it, or cut it in rashers, and broil it. You may, before you broil it, dip it in warm water, and it will eat fine.

Bacon

In making of bacon, different parts of England have different methods; as for instance, Hampshire, Willshire, and Berkshire, &c. &c. they always singe [Page] their hogs, and never cut the hams off, only cut off the chine and spare ribs; in Yorkshire and the Northern counties they scald all the hogs, because they cut off the hams, spare ribs, and chine, and then afterwards salt them thus: rub them well with common salt, and lay it on a board, for the first brine to ran away, for twenty four hours; then take for every side of forty or fifty pounds a pound of hay-salt, a pound of saltpetre, two ounces of sal prunella bruised fine, and mixed with four pounds of common salt, rub your pork well with the salt, and put it in your salting pans at full length; turn and rub it with the brine every day for a fortnight; then take it out, strew it all over with bran or saw-dust and hang it in a wood smoke till it is dry, then hang it in a cool, dry place, but take care it does not touch the wall, as that will make it sweat and spoil it.

Westphalia Bacon.

Take the side of a fine hog, and make the following pickle: take a gallon of pump water, two pounds of bay-salt, the same of white salt, a pound of petresalt, a quarter of a pound of salt-petre, a pound of coarse sugar, and one ounce of s [...]cho tied in a rag; boil these all well together for half an hour, and let it stand till it is cold; then put in the pork, and let it lay in the pickle for a fortnight; then take out the pork, rub it over with saw-dust, and dry it the same as hams.

Note. You may make Westphalia hams the same way; or you may pickle tongues in the same pickle, culy mind to put them in pump water for six or eight hours, wash them well out, and dry them with a cloth before you put them in the pickle.

Pickled Pork.

As many people have various ways in pickling pork, it is almost impossible to give directions for pickling it; some people love it pickled with plain salt, legs especially; others in this manner: have a rub, and lay a layer of salt at the bottom; then mix one third of salt-petre beaten with two thirds of white salt; cut your pork in pieces, rub it well [Page] with the salt, and lay it close in the tub, with a layer of salt between every layer of pork, till the tub is full; then have a cover, just large enough to fit the inside of the tub, put it on, and lay a great weight at the top, and as the salt melts it will keep it close; when you want to use it take a piece out, and mind to put the cover on again, and it will keep good a long time.

Sham Brawn.

Take the belly-piece and head of a young porker, rub it well with salt-petre, let it lay three or four days, and wash it clean; boil the head, take off all the meat, and cut it in pieces; have four neats feet boiled tender, take out the bones, cut the flesh in thin slices, mix it with the head, lay it in the belly-piece, roll it up tight, bind it round with a sheet of tin, and boil it four hours; take it up, and set it on one end, put a trencher on it within the tin, and a large weight upon the trencher, and let it stand all night; in the morning take it out, and bind it with a filler, put it in spring water and salt, and it will be fit for use; when you use it, cut it in slices like brawn, and garnish it with parsley. Observe to change the pickle every four or five days, and it will keep a long time.

A Turkey soused, in Imitation of Sturgeon.

You must take a fine large turkey, dress it very clean, dry and bone it, and then tie it up as you do sturgeon; put into the pot you boil it in, one quart of white wine, one quart of water, one quart of good vinegar, and a large handful of salt; let it boil, skim it well, and then put in the turkey; when it is enough take it out, tie it tighter, and let the liquor boil a little longer; (and if you think the pickle wants more vinegar or salt, add it) when it is cold, pour it upon the turkey, and it will keep some months, covering it close from the air, and keeping it in a dry, cool place. Eat it with oil, vinegar, and sugar, just as you like it. Some admire it more than sturgeon. It looks pretty covered with fennel for a side dish.

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Pigs Feet and Ears soused.

After you have cleaned your pigs feet and ears, boil them till they are tender; then boil as much spring water, with salt and vinegar in it, as will cover them; when both are cold, put the feet and ears in a pail, and pour the pickle over them; and when you use them, take them out, split them in two, and lay them in a dish; chop some green parsley and shallot fine, mix it with oil and vinegar, and a spoonful of mustard, and pour over them; or put them into a batter, and fry them, with butter and mustard in a boat.

Mackrel Soused.

Put some spring water into a fish-kettle, with a handful of salt, half a pint of vinegar, and a few bayleaves, and make it boil; then put in your mackrel, observe they are covered with the liquor) and boil them twenty minutes very gently; then take them out, put them in a long pan, and pour the liquor over them; and when they are cold, put them in a dish, with some of the liquor, and garnish with green fennel.

CHAP. XXXIII.
PICKLING.

Proper Rules to be observed in Pickling.

AS pickles are a very necessary article in all families, it is requisite that every housekeeper, should make her own, and not be obliged to buy them at shops, where they are often badly prepared, by putting in pernicious ingredients to please the eye. Stone jars, well glazed, are best for all kinds of pickles to be kept in; they are, to be sure, expensive [Page] at first, but, with care, they will last many years, and in the end, be found cheaper than earthen vessels; as it has, by experience, been found, that salt and vinegar will penetrate through common earthen vessels, and leave the pickles dry, especially when put in hot. When you take out any pickles never put your hands in, but make use of a wooden spoon kept for that purpose, otherwise your pickles will spoil soon; and always take care that they are covered with vinegar, and tie them down close after you take any out; by this method, and observing the different receipts, you can never err. As vinegar is the grand menstruum for all kinds of pickles, it will be proper to give directions for making it.

White Wine Vinegar.

As this vinegar, by the name, is thought to be made from white wine only, it is proper to give directions for making it: when you brew in the month of March or April, take as much sweet wort of the first running as will serve you the year, boil it without hops for half an hour, and then put it in a cooler; put some good yeast upon it, and work it well; when it is done working, break the yeast into it, and put it into a cask, but mind to fill the cask, and set it in a place where the sun has full power on it; put no bung in the bung-hole, but put a tile over it at night, and when it rains; (but when it is fine take the tile off) let it stand till it is quite sour, which will be in the beginning of September; then draw it off from the settlings into another cask, let it stand till it is fine, then draw it off for use.

If you have any white wine that is tart put it in a cask, and treat it in the same manner; or cyder may be done the same way; a cask of ale turned sour makes ale vinegar in the same manner; but none of these are sit for pickles to keep long, except the first white wine vinegar.

Sugar Vinegar.

In the month of March or April make this vinegar as follows: to every gallon of spring water you use add a pound of coarse Lisbon sugar, boil it, and [Page] keep skimming it, as long as the scum will rise; then pour it into a cooler, and when it is as cold as beer to work, toast a large piece of bread, and rub it over with good yeast, and let it work till it has done working; then beat the yeast into it, put it in a cask, and set it in a place where the [...] of the sun have full power on it; put a tile over the hung-hole when it rains, and every night, but in the day-time, when it is fine weather, take it off; and when you find it is sour enough, which will be in the month of August, (but if it is not sour enough, let it stand till it is) then draw it off, put it into a clean cask, and throw in a handful of isinglass; let it stand till it is fine, then draw it off for use.

Elder Vinegar.

Take two pounds of the pips of [...]der-flowers, and put them in a stone jar, with two gallons of white wine vinegar▪ let them steep, and stir them every day for a fortnight▪ then strain the vinegar from the flowers, press them close, and let it stand to settle, then pour it from the settlings, and put a piece of filtering paper in a funnel, and filter it through; then put it in pint bottles, cork it close, and keep it for use.

Tarragon Vinegar.

Pick the leaves off the stalks of green tarragon, just before it goes into bloo [...] and put a pound weight to every gallon of white vine vinegar, and treat it in the same manner as elder vinegar.

Walnuts Green.

Take the largest and clearest walnuts you can get, pare them as thin as you can; have a tub of spring water standing by you, and throw them in as you pare them; put into the water a pound of bay-salt, let them lay in the water twenty four hours and then take them out; then put them into a stone jar, and between every layer of walnuts lay a layer of vineleaves, and at the bottom and top, fill it up with cold vinegar, and let them stand all night then pour that vinegar from them into a copper, with a pound of bay-salt, set it on the fire, let it boil, then pour [Page] it hot on your nuts, tie them over with a woollen cloth, and let them stand a week; then pour that pickle away, rub your nuts clean with a piece of flannel, then put them again into your jar with vineleaves as above, and boil fresh vinegar; put into your pot, to every gallon of vinegar, a nutmeg sliced, four large races of ginger cut, a quarter of an ounce of mace, the same of cloves, a quarter of an ounce of whole black pepper, and the same of Ordingal pepper; then pour your vinegar boiling hot on your walnuts, and cover them with a woollen cloth; let them stand three or four days, so do two or three times; when cold, put in half a pint of mustard-seed, a large stick of horse-raddish sliced, tie them down close with a bladder, and then with leather; they will be sit to eat in a fortnight; take a large onion, stick the cloves in it, and lay it in the middle of the pot. If you pickle them for keeping, do not boil your vinegar; but then they will not be fit to eat under six months; and the next year you may boil the pickle this way. They will keep two or three years good and firm.

Walnuts White.

Take the largest nuts you can get, just before the shell begins to turn, pare them very thin till the white appears, and throw them into spring water [...] a handful of salt as you pare them; let them stand in that water six hours, lay on them a thin board to keep them under the water; then set a stew-pan on a charcoal fire, with clean water, take your nuts out of the other water, and put them into the stew-pan; let them summer, but not boil, four or five minutes; then have ready by you a pan of spring water, with a handful of white salt in it, and stir it with your hand till the salt is melted; then take your nuts out of the stew-pan with a wooden ladle, and put them into the cold water and salt; let them stand a quarter of an hour, and lay the board on them as before; (if they are not kept under the liquor they will turn black) then lay them on a cloth, and cover them with another to dry; then carefully [Page] wipe them with a soft cloth, put them into your jar or glass, with some blades of mace, and nutmeg sliced thin; mix the spice between your nuts, and pour distilled vinegar over them; first let your glass be full of nuts, pour mutton fat over them, and tie a bladder and then leather over them.

Walnuts Black.

You must take large full grown nuts, at their full growth, before they are hard, lay them in salt and water, and let them lay two days; then shift them into fresh water, and let them lay two days longer; then shift them again, and let them lay three days; then take them out of the water, and put them into your pickling-jar; when the jar is half full, put in a large onion stock with cloves; to a hundred of walnuts put in half a pint of mustard-seed, a quarter of an ounce of mace, half an ounce of black pepper, half an ounce of all spice, fix bay-leaves, and a stick of horse-radish; then fill your jar, and pour boiling vinegar over them, cover them with a plate, and when they are cold tie them down with a bladder and leather, and they will be fit to eat in two or three months. The next year, if any remain, boil up your vinegar again, and skim it; when cold pour it over your walnuts. This is by much the best pickle for use, therefore you may add more vinegar to it, what quantity you please. If you pickle a great many walnuts, and eat them fast, make your pickle for a hundred or two, the rest keep in a strong brine of salt and water, boiled till it will bear an egg; and as your pots empty, fill them up with those in the salt and water. Take care they are covered with pickle.

In the same manner you may pickle a smaller quantity, but if you can get rape vinegar, use that instead of salt and water, treat them thus: put your nuts into the jar you intend to pickle them in, throw in a good handful of salt, and fill the pot with rape vinegar, cover it close and let them stand a fortnight; then pour them out of the pot, wipe it clean, and just rub the nuts with a coarse cloth; then put them in the jar with the pickle as above. If you have [Page] the best sugar vinegar of your own making, you need not boil it the first year, but pour it on cold; and the next year, if any remain, boil it up again, skim it, put fresh spice to it, and it will do again.

Gerkins.

Take five hundred gerkins, and have ready a large earthen pan, of spring water and salt; to every gallon of water put two pounds of salt, mix it well together, and throw in your gerkins; wash them out in two hours, put them to drain, let them be drained very dry, and put them in a jar; in the mean time, get a bell metal pot, with a gallon of the best white wine vinegar, half an ounce of cloves and mace, one ounce of all-spice, one ounce of mustard-seed, a stick of horse-radish cut in slices, six bay-leaves, a little dill, two or three races of ginger cut in pieces, a nutmeg cut in pieces, and a handful of salt, boil it up in the pot altogether, and put it over the gerkins; cover them close down, and let them stand twentyfour hours; then put them in your pot, and simmer them over the stove till they are green; (be careful not to let them boil, if you do you will spoil them) then put them in your jar, and cover them close down till they are cold; then tie them over with a bladder, and leather over that, and put them in a cold, dry place. Mind always to keep your pickles tied down close. Or this way, after they have been 24 hours in the vinegar, pour the vinegar off from them, and make it boil; then pour it over the gerkins, cover them close, and repeat it every day till they are green; then tie them down with a bladder and leather, and keep them in a cool dry place. By this method they will keep good three or four years.

Large Cucumbers in Slices.

Take large cucumbers, before they are too ripe, and slice them the thickness of a crown piece in a pewter dish; to every dozen of cucumbers slice two large onions thin, and so on till you have filled your dish, with a handful of salt between every row: then cover them with another pewter dish, and let them stand twenty four hours; then put them into a cullendar, [Page] and let them drain very well; put them in a jar, cover them over with white wine vinegar, and let them stand four hours; pour the vinegar from them into a copper sauce-pan, and boil it with a little salt; put to the cucumbers a little mace, a little whole pepper, a large race of ginger sliced, then pour the boiling vinegar on them, and cover them close; when they are cold tie them down, and they will be fit to eat in two or three days.

Asparagus.

Take the largest asparagus you can get, cut off the white ends, and wash the green ends in spring water; then put them in another clean water, and let them lay two or three hours in it; then have a large broad stew-pan full of spring water, with a large handful of salt, set it on the fire, and when it boils put in the grass, not tied up, but loose, and not too many at a time, for fear you should break the heads; just scald them, and no more; take them out with a broad skimmer, and lay them on a cloth to cool. Then for your pickle take a gallon or more, according to your quantity of asparagus, of white wine vinegar, and one ounce of bay-salt, boil it, and put your asparagus in your jar; to a gallon of pickle put two nutmegs, a quarter of an ounce of mace, the same of whole white pepper, and pour the pickle hot over them; cover them with a linen cloth, three or four times double; let them stand a week, and boil the pickle; let them stand a week longer, boil the pickle again, and pour it on hot as before; when they are cold, cover them close with a bladder and leather.

Peaches.

Take your peaches when they are at their full growth, just before they turn to ripen; (be sure they are not bruised) then take spring water, as much as you think will cover them, make it salt enough to bear an egg, with bay and common salt, an equal quantity of each; then put in your peaches, [...] a thin board over them, to keep them under the water; let them stand three days, then take them out, wipe them very carefully with a fine soft cloth, and [Page] lay them in your glass or jar; then take as much white wine vinegar as wili fill your glass or jar; to to every gallon put one pint of the best well-made mustard, two or three heads of garlick, a good deal of ginger sliced, half an ounce of cloves, mace, and nutmeg; mix your pickle well together, and pour it over your peaches; tie them close with a bladder and leather; they will be sit to eat in two months. You may, with a fine penknife, cut them across, take out the stones, fill them with mustard seed, garlick, horse-radish, and ginger, and tie them together. You may pickle nectarines and apricots the same way.

Radish Pods.

Make a strong pickle with cold spring water and bay-salt, strong enough to bear an egg, then put your pods in, lay a thin board on them, to keep them under water, and let them stand ten days; then drain them in a sieve, and lay them on a cloth to dry: then take white wine vinegar, as much as you think will cover them, boil it, and put your pods in a jar, with ginger, mace, cloves, and Jamaica pepper; pour your vinegar boiling hot on them, cover them with a coarse cloth, three or four times double, that the steam may come through a little, and let them stand two days. Repeat this two or three times; when it is cold put in a pint of mustard-seed, some horse-radish; and cover them close.

French Beans

Pickle your beans in the same manner as the gerkins.

Cauliflowers.

Take the largest and closest cauliflowers you can get, pull them in springs, put them in an earthen dish, and sprinkle salt over them; let them stand twenty-four hours, to draw the water; then put them in a jar, and pour salt and water boiling over them; cover them close, and let them stand till the next day; then take them out, and lay them on a coarse cloth to drain; put them into glass jars, and put in a nutmeg sliced, and two or three blades of mace in each jar; cover them with distilled vinegar, and tie them [Page] down with a bladder, and over that leather. They will be fit for use in a month.

Beet-root.

Set a pot of spring water on the fire, when it boils put in your beets, and let them boil till they are tender; take them out, and with a knife take off all the outside; cut them in pieces according to your fancy, put them in a jar, cover them with cold vinegar, and tie them down close; when you use the beet, take it out of the pickle, and cut it into what shapes you like; put it in a little dish, with some of the pickle over it. You may use it for sallads or garnish.

White Plums.

Take the large white plums, and if they have stalks let them remain on, and pickle them as you do your peaches.

Onions.

Take your onions when they are dry enough to lay up for winter, (the smaller they are the better they look) put them into a pot, and cover them with spring water with a handful of white salt, and let them boil up; then strain them off, take three coats off, lay them on a cloth, and let two people take hold of it, one at each end, and rub them backward and forward till they are very dry; then put them in your bottles, with some blades of mace and cloves, a nutmeg cut in pieces, with some double-distilled white wine vinegar: boil it up with a little salt, let it stand till it is cold, and put it over the onions; cork them close, and tie a bladder and leather over them.

Lemons.

Take twelve lemons, and scrape them with a piece of broken glass; then cut them across in two four parts downright, but not quite through, so that they will hang together; put in as much salt as they will hold, rub them well, and strew them over with salt; let them lie in an earthen dish three days, and turn them every day; slit an ounce of ginger very thin, and suited for three days, twelve cloves of garlick parboiled and salted three days, a small handful of [Page] mustard seeds bruised and searced through a hair sieve, and some red india pepper; take your lemons out of the salt, squeeze them very gently, put them into a jar with the spice and ingredients, and cover them with the best white wine vinegar; stop them up very close, and in a month's time they will be fit to eat.

Mushrooms White.

Take small buttons, cut off the stalks, rub off the skins with flannel dipped in salt, and throw them into milk and water; drain them out, and put them into a stew-pan, with a handful of salt over them; cover them close, and put them over a gentle stove for five minutes to draw out all the water; then put them on a coarse cloth to drain till they are cold.

To make Pickle for Mushrooms.

Take a gallon of the best vinegar, and put it into a cold still; to every gallon of vinegar put half a pound of bay-salt, a quarter of a pound of mace, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, and a nutmeg cut into quarters; keep the top of the still covered with a white cloth, and as the cloth dries put on a wet one; but do not let the fire be too large lest you burn the bottom of the still; draw it as long as you taste acid, and no longer. When you fill your bottles put in your mushrooms; here and there put in a few blades of mace, and a slice of nutmeg; then fill the bottle with pickle; melt some mutton fat, strain it, and pour over it; it will keep them better than oil.

You must put your nutmegs over the fire in a little vinegar, and give it a boil while it is hot; you may slice them as you please; when it is cold it will not cut, but crack to pieces.

Mushrooms brown.

After you have cleaned them with a flannel and salt as above, throw them into milk and water, then lay them on a cloth to drain; when drained, put them into a jar; boil white wine vinegar enough to cover them with spices in it, as before directed, pour it over them boiling hot; when they are cold tie them down, or put them in bottles, and cork them tight.

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Codlings.

Gather your codlings when they are the size of a large double walnut; take a pan, and put vine-leaves thick at the bottom, put in your codlings, and cover them well with vine-leaves and spring water; put them over a slow fire till you can peel the skins off; take them carefully up in a hair sieve, and peel them very carefully with a peaknife; put them into the same water again, with the vine-leaves as before; cover them close, and set them at a distance from the fire till they are of a fine green; drain them in a cullender till they are cold; put them in jars with some mace, and a clove or two of garlick: cover them with distilled vinegar; pour some mutton fat over them, and tie them down with a bladder and leather very tight.

Fennel.

Set spring water on the fire with a handful of salt; when it boils tie your fennel in bunches, put them into the water; just give them a scald, and lay them on a cloth to dry; when cold, put them in a glass, with a little mace or nutmeg, fill it with cold vinegar, lay a bit of green fennel on the top, and tie over it a bladder and leather.

Grapes.

Get grapes at the full growth, but not ripe, cut them in small bunches fit for garnishing, put them in a stone jar, with vine-leaves between every layer of grapes; then take as much spring water as you think will cover them, put in a pound of bay-salt, and as much white salt as will make it bear an egg: dry your bay-salt and pound it, it will melt the [...]; put it into a bell metal or copper pot, boil it, and skim it very well, and as it boils take the black scum off, but not the white scum; when it has boiled a quarter of an hour, let it stand to cool and settle; when it is cold, pour the clear liquor on the grapes, lay vine-leaves on the top, tie them down close with a linen cloth, cover them with a dish, and let them stand twenty-four hours; then take them out, lay them on a cloth, cover them over with another, and [Page] dry them between the cloths; then take two quarts of vinegar, one quart of spring water, and one pound of coarse sugar; let it boil a little while, skim it as it boils very clean, and let it stand till it is quite cold; dry your jar with a cloth, put fresh vine-leaves at the bottom and between every bunch of grapes, and on the top; then pour the clear of the pickle on the grapes, fill your jar, that the pickle may be above the grapes; tie a thin piece of board in a piece of flannel, lay it on the top of the jar to keep the grapes under the pickle, and tie them down with a bladder and leather; take them out with a wooden spoon, but be sure to make pickle enough to cover them.

Barberries.

Take white wine vinegar; to every quart of vinegar put in half a pound of brown sugar; then pick the worst of your barberries and put them into this liquor, and the best into glasses; then boil your pickle with the worst of the barberries, and skim it very clean; boil it till it looks of a fine colour; then let it stand till it is cold before you strain it: then strain it through a cloth, wringing it to get all the colour you can from the barberries, and let it stand to cool and settle; then pour it clear into the glasses in a little of the pickle; boil a little fennel; when cold, put a little bit at the top of the pot or glass, and cover it close with a bladder and leather. To every half-pound of sugar put a quarter of a pound of white salt.

Red currants are pickled in the same manner.

You may pickle barberries thus: pick them clean from leaves and spotted ones, and put them into jars; mix spring water and salt pretty strong and put over: and when you see the scum rise, change the salt and water, and they will keep a long time.

Red Cabbage.

Slice the cabbage very fine cross-ways, put it on an earthen dish, sprinkle a handful of salt over it, cover it with another dish, and let it stand twentyfour hours; then put it in a cullender to drain, and [Page] lay it in your jar; take white wine vinegar enough to cover it, a little cloves, mace, and all-spice; put them in whole, with [...] pennyworth of cochiceal bruised fine; boil it up and [...] it over the cabbage hot or cold, which you like best, cover it close with a cloth till it is cold, and then tie it over with leather.

Golden Pippins.

Take the [...] pippins you can get, free from spots and bruises, put them into a preserving-pan of cold spring water, set them on a charcoal fire, and keep them turning with a wooden spoon till they will peel, but do not let them boil; when they are enough peel them, and put them into the water again, with a quarter of a pint of the best vinegar, and a quarter of an ounce of allum; cover them very close with a pewter dish, and set them on the charcoal fire again, (a slow fire not to boil) let them stand, turning them now and then till they look green; then take them out, and lay them on a cloth to cool; when cold, make your pickle as lot peaches, only instead of [...] mustard, this must be mustard-seed whole, cover them close, and keep them for use.

Nastertium Berries and Limes.

You pick them off the lime trees in summer.

Take nastertium berries, gat [...]d as soon as the blossom is off, or the limes, put them in cold spring water and salt, and change the water for three days successively; make a pickle of white wine vinegar, mace, nutmeg, slice six shallots, six blades of garlick, some pepper corns, salt, and horse-radish cut in slices; make your pickle very strong, drain your berries very dry, and put them in bottles; mix your pickle well up together, (but you must not boil it) put it over the berries or limes, and tie them down close.

Young Suckers, or young Artichokes before the Leaves are hard.

Take young suckers, pare them very nicely, (all the hard ends of the leaves and stalks and just scald them in salt and water; when they are cold, put them into little glass bottles with two or three large blades of mace, and nutmeg sliced thin; fill them [Page] either with distilled vinegar, or the sugar vinegar of your own making, with half spring water.

Artichoke Bottoms.

Boil artichokes till you can pull the leaves off; then take off the chokes, and cut them from the stalk; (take great care you do not let the knife touch the top) throw them into salt and water for an hour; then take them out, and lay them on a cloth to drain; then put them into a large wide-mouthed glasses, put a little mace and sliced nutmeg between them; fill them either with distilled vinegar, or sugar vinegar and spring water, cover them with mutton fat fried, and tie them down with a bladder and leather.

Samphire.

Take the samphire that is green, lay it in a clean pan, throw two or three handsful of salt over it, and then cover it with spring water; let it lay twentyfour hours; then put it into a clean brass sauce pan, throw in a handful of salt, and cover it with good vinegar; cover the pan close, set it over a very slow fire, and let it stand till it is just green and crisp; then take it off in a moment, (for i [...] it stands till it is soft it is spoiled) put it into your pickling pot and cover it close; when it is cold tie it down with a bladder and leather, and keep it for use. You may keep it all the year in a very strong brine of salt and water, and throw it into vinegar just before you use it.

Mock Ginger.

Take the largest cauliflowers you can get, cut off all the flower from the stalks, peel them, and throw them into strong spring water and salt for three days; then drain them in a sieve pretty day, and put them in a jar; boil white wine vinegar with cloves, mace, long pepper, and all-spice, each half [...] ounce, forty blades of garlick, a stick of horse-radish cut in slices, a quarter of an ounce of Cayan pepper, a quarter of a pound of yellow turmeric and two ounces of baysalt; pour it boiling over the stalks, and cover it down [...] till the next day; then boil it again, and rep [...] [...] ice more; and when it is cold tie it down close.

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Melon Mangoes.

Take as many green melons as you want, slit them two thirds up the middle, and with a spoon take all the seeds out; put them in strong spring water and salt for twenty four hours, and then drain them in a sieve; mix half a pound of white mustard, two ounces of long pepper, the same of all-spice, half an ounce of cloves and mace, a good quantity of garlick and horse-radish cut in slices, and a quarter of an ounce of Cayan pepper; fill the seed holes full of this mixture, put a small skewer through the end, tie it round with packthread close to the skewer, and put them in a jar; boil up vinegar with some of the mixture in it, and pour it over the melons; cover them down close, and let them stand till next day; then green them in the same manner as you do gerkins; you may pickle large cucumbers the same way; tie them down close when cold, and keep them for use.

Elder Shoots in imitation of Bamboo.

Take the largest and oldest shoots of elder which put out in the middle of May; the middle stalks are most tender and biggest, the small ones are not worth pickling; peel off the outward peel or skin, and lay them in a strong brine or salt and water for one night; then dry them in a cloth, piece by piece. In the mean time make your pickle of half white wine and half beer vinegar; to each quart of pickle you must put an ounce of white or red pepper, an ounce of ginger sliced, a little mace, and a few corns of Jamaica pepper; when the spice has boiled in the pickle pour it hot on the shoots stop them close immediately, and set the jar two hours before the fire, turning it often. It is as good a way of greening pickles, as frequent boiling. You may boil the pickle two or three times, and pour it on boiling hot, just as you pleale. If you [...] the pickle of the sugar vinegar, there must be one half spring water.

Indian Pickle, or Picca Lillo.

Take a pound of race ginger, and lay it in water one night; then scrape it, cut it in thin slices, [Page] put to it some salt, and let it stand in the sun to dry; take two ounces of long pepper, and prepare it as the ginger, a pound of garlick cut in thin slices and salted, and let it stand three days; then wash it well, salt it again, and let it stand three days longer; then wash it well, drain it, and put it in the sun to dry; take a quarter of a pound of mustard seeds bruised, and half a quarter of an ounce of turmeric; put these ingredients, when prepared, into a large stone or glass jar, with a gallon of good white wine vinegar, stir it very often for a fortnight, and tie it up close.

In this pickle you may put white cabbage cut in quarters, and put it in a brine of salt and water for three days; then boil fresh salt and water, and just put it in the cabbage to scald; p [...]ss [...] the water, and put it in the sun to dry [...] same manner you must do cauliflowers, cucumbers, melons, apples, French beans, plums, or any sort of fruit; but take care they are well dried before you put them into this pickle. You need never empty the jar, but as the pickles are in season, put them in, and supply them with vinegar as often as there is occasion.

If you would have your pickles look green, leave out out the turmeric, colour them as usual, and put them into this pickle cold.

In the above you may pickle walnuts in a jar by themselves: put the walnuts in without any preparation, tied close down, and kept some time.

Red Currants.

To every quart of white wine vinegar put half a pound of Lisbon sugar, and a quarter of a pound of white salt; then pick out the worst of your currants and put them into this liquor, and put the best in bunches into glasses; then boil the pickle with the worst currants in it, skim it very clean, and let it boil till it looks of a fine colour, then let it stand till it is cold; then strain it through a coarse cloth, wring it through to get out all the colour of the currants, and let it stand to settle; then pour the clear off the settlings, and fill up your glasses with it, tie them over [Page] with a bladder and leather, and keep them in a cold dry place.

Ox Palates.

Take as many ox palates as you want, and wash them clean with salt and water; put them in a pot, cover them with water, put in some salt, and as the scum rises skim it off clean; then put in half an ounce of cloves and mace, a little all-spice and whole pepper; stew them gently till they are tender, (which will be in four or five hours,) take them out, and take the two skins clean off; cut them of what size and shape you please, and let them stand till they are cold; in the mean time, make a pickle of half white wine and half vinegar, boiled together, with some fresh spices in it: when both the pickle and palates are cold, lay a layer of palates in a jar, and put in some bay-leaves, with a little fresh spice, between every layer, and pour the pickle over them; tie them down close, and keep them for use.

These are very useful to put into made dishes of all sorts, only wash them out of the pickle in warm water. You may make a little side-dish with white or brown sauce, or butter and mustard, with a spoonful of white wine in it.

Cocks Combs.

Put your combs into scalding water, take the [...]ns off; then put them into a stew-pan, cover them with white wine vinegar, put in some cloves and mace, a little all-spice and whole pepper, a few bay-leaves, a little bay-salt, and stew them for half an hour; then put them in a jar; and when they are cold, render a little mutton suet, and put over them, to keep out the air, and tie them down with a bladder and leather. When you want to use them, lay them in warm water for an hour before; and you may put them in made dishes, or make a little dish of them, with white or brown cullis.

Purple Cabbage.

Take two cauliflowers, two red cabbages, half a peck of kidney beans, six sticks, with six cloves of garlick on each stick, wash them all well, and give [Page] them a boil up; then drain them on a sieve, lay them leaf by leaf on a large table, and salt them with baysalt; then lay them to dry in the sun, or in a slow oven, until they are as dry as a cork; and make the following pickle: take a gallon of the best vinegar, with one quart of water, a handful of salt, one ounce of whole pepper, and boil it altogether for a quarter of an hour; then let it stand till it is cold; then take a quarter of a pound of ginger cut in pieces, salt it, and let it stand a week; take half a pound of mustard-seed, wash it, and lay it to dry; when very dry, bruise half of it, mix the whole, bruised with some all-spice, whole pepper, the prepared ginger, and an ounce of powder of turmeric; then have a jar, and lay a row of cabbage, then cauliflowers, then beans; put the garlick in the middle, and sprinkle between every layer your mixture; then pour your pickle over all, and tie it down with a bladder and leather.

Salmon.

Take your salmon, scale and gut it, and wash it very clean; have a kettle of spring water boiling, with a handful of salt, a little all-spice, cloves and mace; put in the fish, and boil it three quarters of an hour, if small; if large, one hour; then take the salmon out, and let it stand till it is cold; strain the liquor through a sieve; when it is cold, put your salmon very close in a tub or pan, and pour the liquor over it; when you want to use it, put it into a dish, with a little of the pickle, and garnish it with green fennel.

Sturgeon.

Take your sturgeon and cut it in handsome pieces, wash it well, and tie it up with bass; make a pickle of half spring water and half vinegar; make it pretty salt, with some cloves, mace, and all-spice in it; make it boil, then put in your sturgeon, and boil it till it is tender; then take it up, and let it stand till it is cold: strain the liquor through a sieve; then put the sturgeon into a pan or tub as close as you can, pour the liquor over it, and cover it close: when you [Page] use it, put it in a dish, with a little of the liquor, and garnish it with green fennel or parsley.

Mackrel, called Caveach.

Cut your mackrel into round pieces, and divide one into five or six pieces. To six large mackrel you may take one ounce of beaten pepper, three large nutmegs, a little mace, and a handful of salt; mix your salt and beaten spice together; then make two or three holes in each piece, and thrust the seasoning into the holes with your finger; rub each piece all over with the seasoning, fry them brown in sweet oil, and let them stand [...] they are cold; put them into a jar cover them with vinegar, pour sweet oil over them. They will keep, well covered, a long time, and are delicious.

Mock Anchovies.

To a peck of sprats, two pounds of common salt, a quarter of a pound of bay-salt, one pound of salt-petre, two ounces of sal prunella, and a little bole armeniac; pound all in a mortar; put them into a stone pot, a row of sprats, a layer of your compound, and so on to the top alternately; press them hard down, and cover them close; let them stand six months, and they will be fit for use.

Observe that your sprats are very fresh, and do not wash or wipe them, but first take them as they come out of the water.

Smelts.

Take a hundred of fine smelts, half an ounce of pepper, half an ounce of nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of mace, half an ounce of salt-petre, and a quarter of a pound of common salt: beat all very fine; wash and clean the smelts, gut them, then lay them in rows in a jar, and between every layer of the smelts strew the seasoning, with four or five bay-leaves; then boil red wine and pour over them; cover them with a plate, and when they are cold tie them down close. They exceed anchovies.

Oysters.

Open one hundred of the finest and largest rock oysters you can get into a pan, with all their liquor [Page] with them, but mind you do not cut them in opening, as that will spoil their beauty. Wash them clean out of the liquor one by one; put the liquor into a stew-pan, and give it a boil; then strain it through a sieve, and let it stand half an hour to settle; then pour it [...] the settlings into a stew-pan, and put in half a pint of white wine, half a pint of vinegar, a little salt, half an ounce of cloves and mace, a little allspice and whole pepper, a nutmeg, cut in thin slices, and a dozen bay-leaves; boil it up five minutes; then put in your oysters, and give them a boil up for a minute or two; put them into small jars, and when they are cold put a little sweet oil at the top, and tie them down with a bladder and leather; keep them in a cool dry place, and when you use them, untie them, skim off the oil, put them in a dish with a little of the liquor, and garnish them with green parsley. If you want oyster-sauce, take them out, and put them into good anchovy-sauce, with a spoonful of the pickle; for fish, or for poultry, wash them in warm water, and put them into a white sauce.

Cockles or Muscles.

Take half a peck of cockles or muscles, and wash them well; then put them into a sauce-pan, cover them close, and set them over a slow fire till they are all opened; strain the liquor from them, pick them all out of the shells, (mind and take the sponge or crab out of the muscles) and wash them clean in warm vinegar; strain about half the liquor from the settlings, and treat them in the same manner as oysters.

Walnut Ketchup.

Take half a bushel of green walnuts, before the shell is formed, and grind them in a crab mill, or beat them in a marble mortar; then squeeze out the juices through a coarse cloth, and wring the cloth well to get all the juice out; and to every gallon of juice put a quart of red wine, a quarter of a pound of anchovies, the same of bay-salt, one ounce of allspice, two of long and black pepper, half an ounce of cloves and mace, a little ginger, and horse-radish cut in slices; boil all together till reduced to half [Page] the quantity; pour it into a pan; when it is cold bottle it, cork it tight, and it will be fit for use in three months. If you have any pickle left in the jar after your walnuts are used, to every gallon of pickle put in two heads of garlick, a quart of red wine, and an ounce each of cloves, mace, long, black, and Jamaica pepper, and boil them altogether till it is reduced to half the quantity; pour it into a pan, and the next day bottle it for use, and cork it tight.

Mushroom Ketchup.

Take a bushel of the large slaps of mushrooms gathered dry, and bruise them with your hands; put some at the bottom of an earthen pan, strew some salt over them, then mushrooms, then salt, till you have done; put in half an ounce of beaten cloves and mace, the same of all-spice, and let them stand five or six days; stir them up every day; then tie a paper over them, and bake them for four hours in a slow oven; when so done, strain them through a cloth to get all the liquor out, and let the liquor stand to settle; then pour it clear from the settlings; to every gallon of liquor, add a quart of red wine, and if not salt enough, a little salt, a race of ginger cut small, half an ounce of cloves and mace, and boil it till about one third is reduced; then strain it through a sieve into a pan; the next day pour it from the settlings, and bottle it for use; but mind to cork it tight.

Mushroom Powder.

Take the largest and thickest button mushrooms you can get, cut off the root-end, and peel them; do not wash them, but wipe them clean with a cloth; spread them on pewter dishes, and put them in a slow oven to dry; let the liquor dry up in the mushrooms, as it will make the powder much stronger; and when they are dry enough to powder, beat them in a mortar, sift them through a sieve, with a little Cayan pepper and pounded mace; put the powder in small bottles, cork them tight, and keep it for use.

CHAP. XXXV.
To keep Garden Vegetables and Fruits.

[Page]

To keep French Beans all the Year.

GATHER the finest young French beans, free from spots, on a very fine day; have a large stone jar with a wide mouth, clean and dry, lay a layer of salt at the bottom, then a layer of beans, then salt, then beans, and so on till the jar is full; cover them with salt, put a coarse cloth over them, and a board on that, and then a weight to keep out all the air; set them in a dry cellar, and when you take any out cover the rest close again; wash them you took out very clean, and let them lay in soft water for twenty-four hours, shifting the water often; and when you boil them do not put any salt in the water, but mind to boil them in plenty of water; the best way of dressing them is; boil a white head of cabbage with about a pint of them, then chop the cabbage, and put both into a sauce-pan, with a piece of butter as big as an egg mixed with flour, a quarter of a pint of gravy and a little pepper; let them stew for ten minutes; then dish them up for a side-dish, and garnish with fried sippets.

To keep Green Peas till Christmas.

As soon as you have gathered as many fine young peas on a dry day as you want, shell them, throw them into boiling water, with some salt in; let them boil five or six minutes, and throw them into a cullender to drain; then lay a cloth four or five times double on a table, spread them on, and dry them very well; have your bottles clean and dry, ready, fill them, and cover them with mutton fat rendered; [Page] when it is a little cool fill the necks almost to the top, cork them, tie a bladder over them, and set them in a cool, dry place; when you use them make your water boil, put in a little salt, sugar, and a piece of butter; boil them till they are enough; then strain them in a cullender; then put them into a sauce-pan, with a good piece of fresh butter, keep shaking them round all the time, till the butter is melted; then put them in a dish, and send them to table; garnish them with a little green mint boiled and chopped fine, if you have any.

A second Way to keep Green Peas.

Gather your peas on a fine dry day, neither very young nor old, shell them, and two persons lay hold at each end of a cloth, shake them backwards and forwards a few minutes; have ready some quart bottles, fill them, and cork them tight; have a pipkin of rosin melted, into which dip the necks of the bottles, and set them in a cool, dry place.

To keep Red Gooseberries.

Pick them when full ripe; to each quart of gooseberries put a quarter of a pound of Lisbon sugar, and to each quarter of a pound of sugar put a quarter of a pint of water, (let it boil) then put in your gooseberries, and let them boil softly two or three minutes; then pour them into little stone jars; when cold, cover them up, and keep them for use. They make fine pies with little trouble. You may press them through a cullender; to a quart of pulp put half a pound of fine Lisbon sugar, keep it stirring over the fire till both be well mixed and boiled, and pour it into a stone jar; when cold, cover it with white paper, and it makes very pretty tarts or puffs.

To keep Walnuts all the Year.

Take a large jar, a layer of sea-sand at the bottom, then a layer of walnuts, then sand, then the nuts, and so on till the jar is full, but be sure they do not touch each other in any of the layers; when you would use them, lay them in warm water for an hour, shift the water as it cools, then rub them dry, and they will peel well and eat sweet.

[Page] Lemons will keep thus covered better than any other way.

Another Way to keep Lemons.

Take the finest and largest lemons that are quite sound and good, and take a fine packthread, about a quarter of a yard long, and run it through the hard nib at the end of the lemon; then tie the string together at the ends, hang it on a little hook in an airy, dry place, and so do as many as you please; but be sure they do not touch one another, nor any thing else, but hang them as high as you can.

You may keep all sorts of winter pears, by tying a string to the stalks, and wrap the pears in clean paper.

To keep Grapes.

Before your grapes are too ripe cut them from the vines, with a good piece of the stalks to them, tie a string to the stalks, and hang them up to the cicling of a cool dry room, where there is plenty of air; mind they do not touch one another, nor any thing else, but leave room for the air to pass between them, or they will get mouldy and rot. The Fronteniac grapes are the best for this purpose, and will keep till the end of January.

To dry Artichoke Bottoms.

Gather your artichokes before they are too full grown, and tear them from the stalks to draw out all the strings; then boil them in plenty of water till the leaves will come off easy by plucking, take them up, and pluck off all the leaves; lay the bottoms on tins, and dry them in a cool oven, or before the fire, and keep turning them two or three times a day till they are dry, (which you may know, by holding them up against the light) and no dump about them; then put them into paper bags, and hang them in a very dry place.

To Bottle green Gooseberries.

Gather your gooseberries on a fine dry day, before they are full grown, pick them, and two persons lay hold at each end of a large cloth, and shake them gently backwards and forwards a minute or two; then have your wide mouth bottles, very clean and [Page] dry, ready, fill the bottles, and put the corks slightly in them; put them in a cool oven all night; the next morning take them out, and when they are cold cork them tight; put them in a cool dry place for a fortnight upright, then lay the bottles upon their sides, and they will keep all the year.

You may, after you have put them in bottles, put the corks slightly in, and put them up to the neck in water, and coddle them till you perceive they begin to break; then take them out, and treat them the same as if baked.

To Bottle green Currants.

Gather your currants while they are green and almost full grown when the sun is hot upon them, pick them from the stalks, and put them into narrowmouthed bottles; corks them close, and set them in dry sand, and they will keep all the winter.

To Bottle Damsons, white Bullace, &c.

Gather them on a clear dry day, before they are over ripe, pick the stalks off, and put them into wide mouthed bottles; put the corks loosely in, and put them in a cool oven all night; the next morning take them out, and when they are cold cork them tight, set them in a cool dry place upright for a fortnight; then lay the bottles upon their sides, and they will keep the year round.

To Bottle Cranberries.

Gather your cranberries on a fine dry day, and put them into dry bottles; cork them tight, and put them upright in a cool dry place, and they will keep for two years.

CHAP. XXXV.
WINES.

Raisin Wine.

TAKE two hundred weight of rasins, stalks and all, and put them into a large hogshead, fill it [Page] with water, let it steep a fortnight, stirring them every day; then pour off all the liquor, press the raisins; put both liquors together in a nice, clean vessel that will just hold it, for it must be full; let it stand till it is done hissing, or making the least noise; then stop it close, and let stand six months; peg it, and if you find it quite clear, rack it off in another vessel, stop it close, and let it stand three months longer; then bottle it, and when you use it rack it off into a decanter.

Elder Wine.

Pick the elder-berries when full ripe, put them into a stone jar, and set them in the oven, or a kettle of boiling water, till the jar is hot through; then take them out and strain them through a coarse cloth, wringing the berries, and put the juice into a clean kettle; (to every quart of juice put a pound of fine Lisbon sugar) let it boil, and skim it well; when it is clear and fine pour it into a jar; when cold cover it close, and keep it till you have raisin wine; then when you tun your wine, to every gallon of wine put half a pint of elder syrup.

Orange Wine.

Take twelve pounds of the best powder sugar, with the whites of eight or ten eggs well beaten, put them into six gallons of spring water, and boil it three quarters of an hour; when cold, put into it six spoonsful of yeast and the juice of twelve lemons, which, being pared, must stand with two pounds of white sugar in a tankard; and in the morning skim off the top, and then put it into the water; then add the juice and rinds of fifty oranges, but not the white parts of the rinds, and so let it work all together two days and two nights; then add two quarts of Rhenish or white wine, and put it into your vessel.

Orange Wine with Raisins.

Take thirty pounds of good Malaga raisins picked clean, and chop them small; take twenty large Seville oranges, ten of them you must pare as thin as for preserving; boil about eight gallons of soft water till a third be consumed, let it cool a little, then; [Page] put five gallons of it hot upon your raisins and orange peel, stir it well together, cover it up, and when it is cool let it stand five days, stirring it once or twice a day; then pass it through a hair sieve, and with a spoon press it as dry as you can; put it in a runlet fit for it, and put to it the rind of the other ten oranges cut as thin as the first; then make a syrup of the juice of twenty oranges, with a pound of white sugar, (it must be made the day before you tun it up) stir it well together and stop it close; let it stand two months to clear, then bottle it up▪ It will keep three years, and is better for keeping.

Elder Flower Wine, very like Frontiniac.

Take six gallons of spring water, twelve pounds of white sugar, and six pounds of raisins of the sun chopped; boil these together one hour; then take the flowers of elder that are falling, and rub them off to the quantity of half a peck; when the liquor is cold put them in; the next day put in the juice of three lemons and four spoonsful of good ale yeast; let it stand covered up two days; then strain it off, and put it in a vessel fit for it; to every gallon of wine put a pound of Rhenish, and put your bung lightly on for a fortnight; then stop it down close, let it stand six months, and if you find it is fine bottle it off.

Gooseberry Wine.

Gather your gooseberries in dry weather, when they are half ripe, pick them, and bruise a peck in a tub with a wooden mallet; then take a horse-hair cloth, and press them as much as possible, without breaking the seeds; when you have pressed out all the juice, to every gallon of gooseberries put three pounds of fine dry powder sugar, and stir it all together till the sugar is dissolved; then put it in a vessel or cask, which must be quite full; if ten or twelve gallons, let it stand a fortnight; if a twenty gallon cask, five weeks; set it in a cool place, then draw it off from the lees; clear the vessel of the lees, and pour in the clear liquor again; if it be a ten gallon cask, let it [Page] stand three months; if a twenty gallon, four months; then bottle it off.

Currant Wine.

Gather your currants on a fine dry day, when the fruit is full ripe, strip them, put them in a large pan, and bruise them with a wooden pestle; let them stand in a pan or tub twenty-four hours to ferment; then run it through a hair sieve, and do not let your hand touch the liquor; to every gallon of this liquor put two pounds and a half of white sugar, stir it well together, and put it into your vessel; to every six gallons put in a quart of brandy, and let it stand six weeks; if it is fine, bottle it; if it is not, draw it off as clear as you can into another vessel, or large bottles, and in a fortnight bottle it in small bottles.

Cherry Wine.

Pull your cherries when full ripe off the stalks, and press them through a hair sieve; to every gallon of liquor put two pounds of lump sugar beat fine, stir it together, and put it into a vessel; (it must be full) when it has done working and making any noise, stop it close for three months, and bottle it off.

Birch Wine.

The season for procuring the liquor from the birch trees is in the beginning of March, while the sap is rising, and before the leaves shoot out; for when the sap is come forward, and the leaves appear, the juice, by being long digested in the bark, grows thick and coloured, which before was thin and clear.

The method of procuring the juice is by boring holes in the body of the tree, and putting in fosters, which are commonly made of the branches of elder, the pith being taken out. You may, without hurting the tree, if large, tap it in several places, four or five at a time; and by that means save, from a good many trees, several gallons every day. If you have not enough in one day, the bottles, in which it drops, must be corked close, and rofined or waxed; however, make use of it as soon as you can.

Take the sap and boil it as long as any scum rises, skimming it all the time; to every gallon of liquor [Page] put four pounds of good sugar, and the thin peel of a lemon; boil it afterwards half an hour, skimming it very well; pour it into a clean tub, and when it is almost cold, set it to work with yeast spread upon a toast; let it stand five or six days, stirring it often; then take such a cask as will hold the liquor; fire a large match dipped in brimstone, and throw it into the cask; stop it close till the match is extinguished; tun your wine, and lay the bung on light till you find it has done working: stop it close, and keep it three months; then bottle it off.

Quince Wine.

Gather the quinces when dry and full ripe. Take twenty large quinces, wipe them clean with a coarse cloth, and grate them with a large grater or rasp, as near the core as you can, but none of the core; boil a gallon of spring water, throw in your quinces, and let it boil softly a quarter of an hour; then strain them well into an earthen pan on two pounds of double-refined sugar; pare the peel of two large lemons, throw in and squeeze the juice through a sieve, and stir it about till it is very cool; then toast a little bit of bread, very thin and brown, rub a little yeast on it, let it stand close covered twenty-four hours; then take out the roast and lemon, put it up in a keg, keep it three months, and then bottle it. If you make a twenty-gallon cask, let it stand six months before you bottle it. When you strain your quinces, you are to wring them hard in a coarse cloth.

Cowslip, or Clary Wine.

Take six gallons of water, twelve pounds of sugar, the juice of six lemons, and the whites of four eggs, beat very well; put all together in a kettle, let it boil half an hour, and skim it very well; take a peck of cowslips, (if dry ones, half a peck) put them into a tub with the thin peeling of six lemons, then pour on the boiling liquor, and stir them about; when almost cold, put in a thin toast, baked dry, and rubbed with yeast; let it stand two or three days to work. If you put in, before you tun it, six ounces of syrup of citron, or lemons, with a quart of Rhenish wine, it [Page] will be a great addition. The third day strain it off, and squeeze the cowslips through a coarse cloth; then strain it through a flannel bag, and tun it up: lay the bung loose two or three days, to see if it works; and if it does not, bung it down tight; let it stand three months, then bottle it.

Turnep Wine.

Take a good many turneps, pare, slice, and put them in a cyder-press, and press out all the juice very well: to every gallon of juice put three pounds of lump sugar; have a vessel ready, just big enough to hold the juice; put your sugar into a vessel; and also to every gallon of juice half a pint of brandy; pour in the juice, and lay something over the bung for a week, to see if it works; if it does, you must not bung it down till it has done working; then stop it close for three months, and draw it off in another vessel; when it is fine, bottle it off.

Rasberry Wine.

Take some fine rasberries, bruise them with the back of a spoon, then strain them through a flannel bag into a stone jar: to each quart of juice put a pound of double-refined sugar, stir it well together, and cover it close; let it stand three days, then pour it off clear: to a quart of juice, put two quarts of white wine, and bottle it off; it will be fit to drink in a week. Brandy made thus, is a [...] fine drain, and a much better way than steeping [...] rasberries.

Mead Wine.

As there are several sorts of mead wine, it will be proper to describe them separately. White or sack mead, is made thus: to every five gallons of water, add one gallon of the best honey; set it on the fire, and boil it well together for one hour, taking care to skim it well; then take it off the fire, and put it away to cool; then take two or three races of ginger, a stick of cinnamon, and two nutmegs; bruise them a little, put them in a Holland bag, and put them in the hot liquor, so let it stand till it is nearly cold; then put as much ale yeast to it as will make it work; keep it in a warm place as they do ale, and when it [Page] has worked well, put it into a cask that will just hold it, and in two or three months bottle it off, cork it well, and keep it for use.

Walnut mead is made thus: to every two gallons of water put seven pounds of honey, and boil them together for three quarters of an hour: then to every gallon of liquor put about twenty-four walnutleaves, pour your liquor boiling hot over them, and let it stand all night; then take out the leaves, and put in a cupful of yeast; let it [...] or three days [...] stood three [...] it for use.

[...] manner: to ten gallons of water, put twenty pounds of the best honey, boil it till near one gallon is wasted, and skim it well; have ready ten lemons cut in halves, take three quarts of the hot liquor and put to the lemons; put the rest of the liquor into a tub, with five pecks of cowslips, and let them stand all night; then put in the liquor with the lemons, six large spoonsful of good ale yeast, and a handful of sweet-briar; stir them all well together, and let them work three or four days; then strain the liquor from the ingredients and put it in a cask; let it stand six months, then bottle it for use.

Blackberry Wine.

Take your berries when full ripe; put them into a vessel of wood or stone, with a spicket in it, and pour upon them as much boiling water as will just appear at the top of them; as soon as you can bear your hand in them, bruise them very well till all the berries are broke; then let them stand, close covered, till the berries are well wrought up to the top, which is usually in three or four days; then draw the clear juice off into another vessel, and add to every ten quarts of this liquor one pound of moist sugar; stir it well in, and let it stand to work in another vessel, like the first, a week or ten days; then draw it off at the spicket, through a jelly-bag, into a large vessel: take four ounces of isinglass, lay it in, steep it twelve hours in a pint of white wine, and then [Page] boil it till it is dissolved over a slow fire; then take a gallon of your blackberry juice, put in the isinglass, give it a boil up, and put it hot to the rest; put it into a vessel, stop it up close till it has purged and settled; then bottle it, cork it tight, put it in a cold cellar, and it will be fit to drink in three months.

Damson Wine.

Gather your damsons on a fine day when they are ripe, weigh them, and then bruise them; put them into a stone stein that has a cock in it, and to sixteen pounds of fruit boil two gallons of water, skim it, pour it over the fruit scalding hot, and let it stand two days; then draw it off, and put it into a vessel, and to every two gallons of liquor put five pounds of fine sugar; fill up the vessel, and stop it close; keep it in a cool cellar for twelve months; then bottle it, and put a small lump of sugar into each bottle; cork them well, and it will be fit for use in two months after.

Grape Wine.

To every gallon of ripe grapes put a gallon of soft water, bruise the grapes, let them stand a week without stirring, and draw the liquor off fine; to every gallon of wine put three pounds of lump sugar; put it into a vessel, but do not stop it till it has done hissing; then stop it close, and in six months it will be fit to bottle.

Apricot Wine.

Take six pounds of loaf sugar and six quarts of water, boil them together, and skim it well; then put in twelve pounds of apricots pared and stoned, and boil them till they are tender; then strain the liquor from the apricots, put it into a stone bottle, and when it is fine bottle it; cork it well and keep it in a cool cellar for use.

Balm Wine.

Take twenty pounds of lump sugar and four gallons and a half of water, boil it gently for one hour, and put it into a tub to cool; take two pounds of the tops of green balm, and bruise them, put them into [Page] a barrel with a little new yeast, and when the liquor is nearly cold pour it on the balm; stir it well together, and let it stand twenty-four hours, stirring it often; then bung it up, and let it stand six weeks; then bottle it off; put a lump of sugar in each bottle, cork it tight, and the longer you keep it the better it will be.

Mountain Wine.

Take and pick all the stalks out of your fine Malaga raisins, chop them very small, and put ten pounds of them to every two gallons of spring water; let them steep three weeks, stirring them often; then squeeze out the liquor, and put it into a vessel that will just hold it, but do not stop it till it has done hissing; then bung it up close, and it will be fit for use in six months.

Black Cherry Brandy.

Take and pick eight pounds of black moroon cherries, and eight pounds of small black cherries, put them in a mortar and bruise them, or leave them whole if you please; put them into a cask, and pour six gallons of good brandy over them; put in two pounds of loaf sugar, broke to pieces, a quart of sack, stir all well up together, and let it stand two months; then draw it off into pint bottles, cork it tight, and keep it for use. You may make it with morella cherries the same way.

Rasberry Brandy.

Take two gallons of rasberries, pick them from the stalks, bruise them with your hands, and put them into a cask; put eight gallons of good brandy over them, put in two pounds of loaf sugar beat fine, and a quart of sack; stir all well up together, and let it stand a month; then draw it off clear into another cask, and when it is fine bottle it, cork the bottles well, and keep it for use.

Orange Shrub.

Break one hundred pounds of loaf sugar in small pieces, put it into twenty gallons of water, boil it till the sugar is melted, skim it well, and put it in a tub to cool; when cold, put it into a cask, with [Page] thirty gallons of good Jamaica rum, and fifteen gallons of orange juice, (mind to strain all the seeds out of the juice) mix them well together; then beat up the whites of six eggs very well, stir them well in, let it stand a week to fine, and then draw it off for use. By the same rules you may make any quantity you want.

CHAP. XXXVI.
CORDIAL WATERS.

Proper Rules to be observed in making Cordial Waters.

IF your still i [...] a limber, mind and fill the top with cold water; when you set it on, make a paste of flour and cold water, and close the bottom of your still with it; take care that your fire is not so hot as to make it boil over, as that will weaken the spirit of your water; you must frequently change your water on the top of your still, and never let it be scalding hot, then your still will drop gradually. If you use a hot still, when you put on the top, dip a cloth in white lead and oil mixed together, and lay it well over the edges of your still, and a coarse cloth over the top, and make a slow fire under it, but mind and keep it very clear; when your cloth is dry dip it in cold water, and lay it on again; and if your still is very hot, wet another cloth and lay it round the top; when you use a worm-still, keep your tub full to the top with water, and change it often, to prevent its growing hot.

Walnut Water.

Take a peck of fine green walnuts, bruise them [Page] well in a large mortar, put them in a pan with a handful of balm bruised, put two quarts of good French brandy to them, cover them close, and let them lay three days; the next day distill them in a cold still; from this quantity draw three quarts, which you may do in a day.

Treacle Water.

Take the juice of green walnuts, four pounds of rue, carduas, marygold, and balm, of each three pounds; roots of butter-bur half a pound, roots of burdock one pound; angelica and mastic-wort, of each half a pound; leaves of scordium six handsful; Venice treacle and mithridates, of each half a pound; old Canary wine two pounds, white wine vinegar six pounds, juice of lemon six pounds; and distill this in an alembic.

Treacle Water, Lady Monmouth's Way.

Take three ounces of hartshorn, shaved and boiled in borage water, or succory, wood-sorrel, or respice water, or three pints of any of these waters boiled to a jelly, and put the jelly and hartshorn both into the still and add a pint more of these waters; when you put it into the still, take the roots of elecampane, gentian, cypress, tuninsal, of each an ounce; sorrel roots two ounces, blessed thistle, called carduas, and angelica, each one ounce; balm, sweet marjorum and burnet, half a handful of each; lily comvally flowers, borage, buglos, rosemary, and marygold flowers, of each two ounces; citron rinds, carduas seeds, and citron seeds; then prepare all these simples thus: gather the flowers as they come in season, and put them in glasses with a wide mouth, and put with them as much good sack as will cover them, and tie up the glasses close with bladders wetted in the sack, with a cock and leather tied upon it close, adding more flowers and sack, as occasion is; and when one glass is full take another, till you have your quantity of flowers to distill; put cochineal into a pint bottle, with half a pint of sack, and tie it up with a bladder under the cork, and another on the top wetted with sack, tied up close with brown [Page] thread; and then cover it close with leather, and bury it standing upright in a bed of hot horse-dung for nine or ten days; look at it, and if it dissolve take it out of the dung, but do not open it till you distill; slice all the roses, beat the seeds and the alkermes berries, and put them into another glass amongst all, but put no more sack than there is occasion for; and when you intend to distill, take a pound of the best Venice treacle, and dissolve it in six quarts of the best white wine, and three of red rose water; put all the ingredients into a large bowl, stir them all together, and distill them in a glass still balneum mariae; open not the ingredients till the same day you distill.

Black Cherry Water.

Take six pounds of black cherries, and bruise them small; then put to them the tops of rosemary, sweet marjorum, spearmint, angelica, balm, marygold flowers, of each a handful; dried violets one ounce; anise-seeds and sweet fennel seeds, of each half an ounce, bruised; cut the herbs small, mix all together, and distill them off in a cold still.

Hysterical Water.

Take betony, roots of lovage, seeds of wild parsnips, of each two ounces; roots of single piony four ounces, of misletoe of the oak three ounces, myrrh a quarter of an ounce, castor half an ounce; beat all these together, and add to them a quarter of a pound of dried mille pede; pour on these three quarts of mugwort-water, and two quarts of brandy; let them stand in a close vessel eight days; then still it in a cold still passed up. You may draw off nine pints of water, and sweeten it to your taste; mix all together, and bottle it up.

Red Rose Buds.

Wet your roses in fair water; four gallons of roses will take near two gallons of water; then still them in a cold still, take the same stilled water, and put into it as many fresh roses as it will wet; then still them again.

[Page] Mint, balm, parsley, and penny-royal water, distill the same way.

PLAGUE WATER.

ROOTS | FLOWERS | SEEDS.
Angelica, | Wormwood, | Harts-tongue;
Dragon, | Succory, | Horehound,
Maywort, | Hysop, | Fennel,
Mint, | Agrimony, | Melilot
Rue, | Fennel, | St. John's-wort,
Carduas, | Cowslips, | Comsrey,
Origany, | Poppies, | Feverfew,
Winter-savoury, | Plantain, | Red rose leaves,
Broad thyme, | Setfoil, | Wood-sorrel,
Rosemary, | V [...]rvain, | Pellitory of the wall;
Pimpernel, | Maidenhair, | Heart's-cafe,
Sage, | Motherwort, | Centuary,
Fumatory, | Cowage, | Sea-drink; a good handful of each of the aforesaid things;
Colt's-foot, | Golden-rod,
Scabeons, | Gromwell,
Borrage, | Dill. | Gentian root,
Saxifrage, |  | Butterbur-root,
Betony, |  | Piony-root,
Liverwort, |  | Bay berries,
Germander, |  | Juniper berries, of each of these a pound.

One ounce of nutmegs, one ounce of cloves, and half an ounce of mace; pick the herbs and flowers, and shred them a little; cut the roots, bruise the berries, and pound the spices fine; take a peck of green walnuts, and chop them [...]all; mix all these together, and lay them to fre [...] sack-lees, or any white wine-lees, if not in good spirit; but wine-lees are best; let them lay a [...] or better; be sure to stir them once a day with a stick, and keep them close covered; then still them in an alembic with a slow fire, and take care your still does not burn. The first, second, and third running is good, and some of the fourth; let them stand till cold, then put them together.

Surfeit Water.

You must take the scurvy-grass, brook-lime water-cresses, [Page] Roman wormwood, rue, mint, balm, sage, cleavers, of each one handful; green merery two handsful; poppies, if fresh, half a peck, if dry a quarter of a peck; cochineal six-pennyworth; saffron six-pennyworth; anise seeds, carraway-seeds, coriander-seeds, cardamum-seeds, of each an ounce; liquorice two ounces; scraped figs split a pound, raisins of the sun stoned a pound, juniper berries an ounce, bruised nutmeg an ounce, beaten mace an ounce, sweet fennel-seed an ounce bruised, a few flowers of rosemary, marygold, and sage [...]wers; put all these into a large stone jar, and put to them three gallons of French brandy, cover it close, and let it stand near the fire for three weeks; stir it three times a week; be sure to keep it close stopped, and then strain it off; bottle your liquor, and pour on the ingredients a gallon more of French brandy; let it stand a week, stirring it once a day: then distill it in a cold still; and this will make a fine white furleit water.

Milk Water.

Take two good handsful of wormwood, as much carduas, as much roe; four handsful of mint, as much balm, and half as much angelica; cut these a little, put them into a cold still, and put to them three quarts of milk; let your fire be quick till your still drops, and then slacken it. You may draw off two quarts; the first quart will keep all the year.

Stag's Heart Water.

Take balm four handsful, sweet marjorum one handful, rosemary flowers, clove gilliflowers dried, dried rose-buds, borrage flowers, of each an ounce; marygold flowers half an ounce; lemon peel two ounces; mace and cardamum, of each thirty grains; of cinnamon sixty grains; of yellow and white sanders, of each a quarter of an ounce; shavings of hartshorn an ounce; take nine oranges, and put in the peel; then cut them in small pieces; pour upon these two quarts of the best Rhenish, or the best white wine; let it infuse three or four days, being very close stopped in a cellar, or cool place; if it infuse.

[Page] Take a stag's heart, and cut off all the [...], cut it very small, and pour in so much Rhenish, or white wine, as will cover it; let it stand all night close covered in a cool place; the next day add the aforesaid things to it, mixing it very well together, adding to it a pint of the best rose-water, and a pint of the juice of celandine, (if you please you may put in ten grains of saffron) and so put it in a glass still, distilling in water, raising it well to keep in the steam, both of the still and receiver.

To make Angelica Water.

Take eight handsful of the leaves, wash them and cut them, and lay them on a table to dry; when they are dry put them into an earthen pot, and put them to four quarts of strong wine lees, let it stay for twenty-four hours, but stir it twice in the time; then put it into a warm still, or alembic, and draw it off; cover your bottles with a paper, and prick holes in it, so let it stand two or three days; then mingle it all together, and sweeten it; and when it is settled, bottle it up, and stop it close.

Milk Water a second Way.

Take the herbs agrimony, endive, fumitory, balm, elder-flowers, white nettles, water cresses, bank-cresses, sage, each three handsful; eyebright, brook-lime, and celendine, each two handsful; the roses of yellow dock, red madder, fennel, horse-radish, and liquorice, each three ounces; raisins stoned one pound; nutmegs sliced, winter bark, turmeric, galnigal, each two drams; carraway and fennel seeds three ounces; one gallon of milk; distill all with a gentle fire in one day. You may add one handful of May wormwood.

Cordial Poppy Water.

Take two gallons of very good brandy and a peck of poppies, and put them together in a wide-mouthed glass, and let them stand forty-eight hours; then strain the poppies out; take a pound of raisins of the sun, stone them; an ounce of coriander-seeds, an ounce of sweet fennel-seeds, and an ounce of liquorice [Page] the brandy, with a pound of good powder sugar, and let them stand four or eight weeks, shaking it every day; then strain it off and bottle it close up for use.

Peppermint Water.

Gather your peppermint when it is full grown, and before it seeds; cut it in short lengths, fill your still with it, and cover it with water; then make a good fire under it, and when it is near boiling, and the still begins to drop, if your fire is too hot draw a little from under it, to keep it from boiling over, or your water will be muddy; the flower your still drops, the clearer and stronger your water will be, but do not spend it too far; bottle it the next day, let it stand three or four days to take off the fiery taste of the still; then cork it well, and it will keep a long time.

Rose Water.

Gather your roses on a dry day, when they are full blown, pick off the leaves, and to a peck put a quart of water; then put them into a cold still, make a slow fire under it, the flower you distill it the better it will be; then bottle it, and in two or three days time you may cork it.

Lavender Water.

Put two pounds of lavender pipe in two quarts of water, put them into a cold still, and make a slow fire under it; distill it off very slowly, into a pot till you have distilled all your water; then clean your still well out, put your lavender-water into it, and distill it off slowly again; put it into bottles, and cork it well.

Aqua Mirabilis.

Take cardamums, cloves, cubebs, mace, nutmegs, cinnamon, and galingal, of each four drachms; then take two pints of the juice of celandine, one pint of the juice of spearmint, the same quantity of the juice of balm, flowers of melilot, cowslip, rosemary, borrage bugloss, and marygolds, of each six drachms; seeds of fennel, coriander and carraway, of each four drachms; four quarts of the best sack, and two [Page] quarts of white wine; the strongest brandy, angelica water, and rose water, of each a quart; bruise the spices and seeds, and steep them with the herbs and flowers in their juices, waters, sack, white wine, and brandy all night; in the morning distill it in a common still pasted up; and from this quantity you may draw off two gallons at least; sweeten it to your taste with sugar-candy, bottle it up, and keep it in a cool place.

Orange or Lemon Water.

Put six quarts of brandy and one quart of sack to the outer rinds of fifty oranges or lemons, and let them steep in it one night; the next day distill them in a cold still; draw it off till you find it begins to taste sour; sweeten it to your taste with double-refined sugar, and mix the first, second and third runnings together; if it be lemon water, it should be performed with two grains of ambergris, and one of musk; grind them fine, tie them in a rag, and let it hang five or six days in each bottle; or you may put to them three or four drops of the tincture of ambergris. Be sure to cork it well.

Piedmont Water.

Take two gallons of brandy, two gallons of water, and one pound of all-spice beat up in a mortar; let it stand all night, and then draw it off in a worm-still.

Nutmeg Water.

Take two gallons of brandy, two gallons of water, and one pound of nutmeg beat up in a mortar; let it stand all night, and then draw it off in a worm-still.

Fever Water.

Take three ounces of Virginia snake root, two ounces of carduus-seeds and marygold-flowers, and ten green walnuts; carduus water and poppy water, one quart of each; and one ounce of hartshorn; slice the walnuts, and steep all in the water a fortnight; then add to it half an ounce of London treacle, and distill the whole in an alembic pasted up.

CHAP. XXXVII.
BREWING.

[Page]

HAVING given directions for the making of wines and cordial waters, it would be thought an unpardonable omission to pass over malt liquors unnoticed. We do not mean to enter on all the various branches of brewing, it being foreign to our present purpose.

All we intend, is to give general directions for brewing, managing, and keeping such strong small beer that may be necessary in a large family.

The first consideration is, the being provided with proper implements; and the copper appearing the first object;

The manner of setting and position of the copper are first for our consideration: and the proper method is, to divide the fire by a stop; and if the door and draught be in a direct line, the stop should be erected from the middle of each outline of the grating, and parallel with the centre sides of the copper: by this method the middle of the fire will be directly under the bottom of the copper. The stop is composed of a thin wall in the centre of the right and left sides of the copper, which is to ascend half the height of the copper; on the top must be left a cavity, from four to six inches, for a draught for the half-part of the fire, which is next the door of the copper, and then the building must close all round to the finishing at the top.

By this mode of erecting your copper, the heat will communicate from the outward part of your fire round the outward half of your copper, through the cavity, as does the farthest part of the flue, which also contracts a conjunction of the whole, and causes [Page] the flame to glide gently and equally round the bottom of your copper.

Several advantages are derived from this mode of proceeding: the fuel being an object, is thereby [...] saved; it has the superiority of wheel-draughts: with them, if very particular attention is not paid to the hops, by stirring them down, they are liable to stick to the sides and scorch. This will very much hurt the flavour of your liquor. The copper, by this method, will last many years longer than by a wheel-draught; that drawing with so much violence, that if your liquor be beneath the communication of the fire, the copper will be liable to be damaged; so that by the other contrivances you may boil half a copper full without injury. There is a great advantage in this, it being impossible to draw it clean off the mash.

To give greater expedition to the operation, you may wish to extend this advantage to a few pailsful, which is done without injury to the other; the whole of the other being drawn off, the copper will accomplish your intended purpose next morning, which will prevent disturbing your rest; it running the whole night, will be ready to boil in the morning, and fit to be added to the working of the other small beer. In time the whole will be rendered complete for turning.

In pursuing this method, you are not under the necessity of having your copper turned, which is not only disagreeable, but attended with a great expence.

Other inconveniencies are too frequently found in coppers, their having been made too exact to their intended quantity; the consequence being, that there is not sufficient room for boiling the liquor in, with any degree of rapidity or safety, which must be naturally supposed to be essential points. This inconvenience may be remedied: prepare good seasoned pieces of elm, or any other proper wood, then shape them like the viller of a waggon wheel, being half its thickness, and join them round, to make the dimensions of the circle of your copper. The rim of [Page] the copper, which turns over as a bearing at the top, may be beat up, and that part nailed to the bottom part of the wood-work, ingrafting between the copper and wood-work, a cement, such as whiting and bullock's blood, of the thickness of common whitewash. This will prevent any leak, and last a great while.

Using this precaution, not to let the wood-work join nearer than seven or eight inches to the copper flue, or the communication of the heat; if there be any fear of penetrating through that direction, nail either copper or plate iron; observing the above cement being equal to any solder for this purpose.

This method is recommended only where stopdraughts are used; where wood may be applied with safety, the fires of these never being so furious that any damage can be done. For erecting other coppers on different constructions, stone, brick, or tarris mortar may be used.

Coolers being of no small consequence, and the next thing to be considered, for not being properly taken care of, the liquor, by some seemingly [...] countable cause, will have a disagreeable tang. Great care should be taken of their being well scalded and washed; and likewise that no dirty soap-suds are slopped upon them, which often happens, by permitting washing to be done in the brewhouse.

In preparing your coolers, never let the water stand in them too long, as it will turn putrid, and the stench entering the wood, will render them almost incurable. But to prevent such consequences, all coolers ought to be leaded, being exceedingly cleanly, and a great help in cooling part of your liquor-worts, which is necessary to the working it, as well as for the cooling; the whole evaporation causing more waste than proper boiling.

Also let your coolers be scoured well two or three times with cold water, it being more proper than hot to effect a perfect cleansing; hot water will not only drive the infection further, but if your drink be let into the coolers, and if any remain in the crevices, [Page] the heat will collect the foulness, and render it unwholesome.

Some persons who pretend to be judges of this matter, argue, that ropiness in beer proceeds from the want of a sufficient quantity of hops, to dispel the glutinous richness arising from the goodness of the malt; which is a mistake, save when it is boiled too much.

Others argue, that it is by applying the water too sharp, that is, too hot, to mash with; but if the water did not produce that fault, it has another equally dangerous, that is, when you mash with water so exceedingly hot it is liable to set the malt, which will clog it up so that it is almost impossible for it to run off: and when you have got over that difficulty by art, it never answers in point of goodness.

As a proof of heats and colds, which must be applicable in the case of brewing, proceed thus:—Take a pail of cold water, throw it on a quantity of grains, and it will almost immediately become ropy. Some brewers will put cold water on the mash, and imagine that it gets out the whole of the strength; but it is impossible for this to meet with a favourable reception, considering the improbability thereof, though they say it makes excellent toplash, or rather rot-gut small beer.

Many families having a particular aversion to brewing, from a conception of the trouble, and the enormous expence attending the fitting up a brewhouse: but if properly made, a whole set of coolers may be removed from house to house with great facility and little expence, provided they be made as hereafter mentioned.

Strong frames must be constructed for each cooler, in such a manner, that they may be unwedged and taken asunder when occasion requires. The outside frame should turn up pretty high, that is, sufficiently thick and strong to cut a proper inlet to receive wedges for the purposes hereafter mentioned; form your coolers, which are to consist of common planed deal boards, and lay them even to fit on this frame, which, [Page] from a projection and inlet, you can set the side to the bottom; and it will be necessary the inlet should be a little lower than where the bottom rests; by these means the wedges will have full power to tighten the sides to as great an extremity as a hooped barrel. And these wedges should be in three regular directions on the sides, and at two places at each end, which will form perfect firmness. If the cooler be made in regular sizes under each other, you may set strong castors in mortices under the legs, by which means you can drive them under each other, so as the whole to go under the uppermost, which is a good method of setting them out of harm's way. By this mode of construction the chief of your brewing utensils, the copper excepted, may be unwedged, and with little trouble packed into a waggon in the space of two hours, and set up in another brewhouse in the like time.

And even if you should choose at any time to dispose of the materials, that may be done without loss, as the boards will not be damaged by either nails, pins, or screws; and a small quantity, such as a hogshead, is required, which may be made like drawers, pulling out in grooves, and resting on trestles, which may be very conveniently put out of danger, as beforementioned.

You must keep the mash-tub perfectly clean; no grains should be left in it any longer than the day after brewing, for fear it should sour the tubs; for should there be a sour smell in the brewhouse before the beer is tunned, it may infect your liquor and worts.

To make your tub more perfect and lasting, take a circular piece of brass or copper, to inlay and line the hole where the pen-staff enters, to let the wort run off into the under back. The pen-staff should be also stoutly serrulled with the same metal, and both well and properly finished, as you may with ease place it properly: using this mode, it will run from the fineness of a thread to the fulness of an inch tube, &c. first dressing your mash-basket with little [Page] bushy furze, without stems or straw, six or eight inches in, from the bottom of your basket, and set quite perpendicularly over the whole, with the pen-staff through the centre of the basket and the middle of the furze or straw, and fastened into the hole of the tub. You must keep it properly steady; and for that purpose take a piece of iron, let it into a staple fastened to the tub, or the nearest part opposite to the basket, and to reach nearly to it; and from that piece another, added to a jointed swivel, or any other contrivance, so as to be at liberty to let round the basket like a dog-collar, and to enter into a staple formed with the same to pin it fast; and by adding a half-circular turn in the collar, in which you have room to drive in a wedge, which will keep it safe down to the bottom, when there can be no danger of its being disturbed by stirring the mash, which will otherwise sometimes be the case. When you let go, you will raise the pen-staff to your own degree of running; then fasten the staff by the help of two wedges, tightened between the staff and the basket.

The copper, in process of time, like every thing else, will become defective; when it happens, this simple remedy will make it as perfect as ever: work the pen-staff in the brass socket with emery and water, or oil, which will make it as perfect as when new.

As an addition to the under-backs, get a piece of copper to line the hole in the bottom, which may be stopped with a cloth put singly round a large cork; and when fastened down for the wort to run, it will be necessary to put a large weight on the cork, which will prevent its flying up by the heat. When the liquor is pumped clean out of the back, the cloth round the cork will enable you to take it out with case; and there should be a drain below the under-back to carry off the water, which will enable you to wash it clean with little trouble. This drain should be made with a clear descent, so that no damp may remain under the back. With the conveyance of water running into your copper, you may be enabled [Page] to work that water in a double quantity; your under-back being filled by the means of letting it in at your leisure out of your copper, through a shoot to the mash-tub, and so to the under-back; thus you will have a referre against the time you wish to fill your copper, which may be compleated in a few minutes, by pumping while the upper cock is renning.

Thus much for the principles of brewing, but be cautious to keep every thing clean.

Having explained the necessary precautions in preparing the vessels, I shall make some observations to be observed in the course of brewing.

Your utensils being well scalded, your malt ground, your copper boiling, and your pen-staff well set, proceed to mash, by letting a sufficient quantity of boiling water into your tub, in which it must stand till the steam having gone off, so as you may see your own shadow in it. One person should pour the malt gently in, while another should carefully stir it; for as much care should be observed when the mash is thin as when thick.

This being effectually done, and having a reserve of malt, to prevent evaporation, cover your tub with sacks, &c. and leave your malt three hours to steep.

Before you let the mask run, you should not fail to be prepared with a vessel to catch the first flush, being generally thickish; and another vessel being applied while you return the first on the mash, and so on for two or three times, till it runs fine. Your copper should be boiling at this time, and a tub placed close to your mash-tub; let into it through your spout half the quantity of boiling water you mean to use for drawing off your best wort. This being done, turn your cock to fill up again directly, which will boil in due time, heated with coal ashes, cinders, &c. All this time you must stop the mash with the hot water out of the tub, in moderate quantities, every ten or a dozen minutes, until the whole be consumed; then let off the remaining quantity, boiling hot, to the finishing purpose, for strong beer.

[Page] Then fill your copper quite full, as it may boil quickly, for a second mash: whether you intend it for ale or small beer, being so prepared, let off the remaining quantity of water into the tub, as was done for the strong beer, stopped up as before; but if you would have small beer besides, you must judge accordingly, by boiling a proper quantity off in due time, and letting it into the tub as before. Avoid the latter article if you can, that you may draw out the strength for ale.

Forty-eight bushels of malt will make four hogsheads of good strong beer as need be, and also four hogshead of very good ale; the strong beer should be kept two or three years, and the ale one year, before tapped. If your mash be only for one hogshead, it should be two hours running off; if two hogsheads, two hours and a half; and for any greater quantity, three hours; for it should not stay too long, as the strength may be exhausted by the frequent droppings.

Great care must be taken in the time of steeping your mashes, strong beer three hours, ale one hour, and if small beer half an hour. By thus proceeding, the boilings will take place regularly after each other, and prevent loss of time. Take great care, in the coarse of each mashing, that it is thoroughly stirred from the bottom, and particularly round the mash basket, as it will prevent a stagnation in the whole body of the mash; and by omitting this last process it will fox your beer, and give it but an indifferent taste.

In preparing for the boiling, be very careful to put the hops in with the first wort, or it will char in a few minutes. As soon as the copper is full, make a good fire under it; but be careful in filling it, leaving room enough for boiling: boiling quick is necessary to be observed, though in this there are different opinions; perhaps there is but one good method, that is, boiling quick. Particular caution should be observed when it begins to swell in waves in the copper; if you have no assistant, be particularly [Page] attentive to its motions, having an iron rod of a proper length, crooked at one end, and jagged at the other; with the crook you open the copper door, and the other end push in the damper without moving. On the first swell you will have sufficient time to proportionate your fire; great precaution should be taken that it is not too predominant: and when the boil is properly got under, add a fire to boil briskly, varying a few minutes.

As to the time it should boil, an experienced brewer provides a copper bowl dish, and with it takes out some of the liquor, and when he discovers a working and that the hops sink, be concludes it sufficiently boiled. Sometimes this is compleated in thirty or forty minutes; but according to the different qualities of the malt, this rule is often extended to five or ten minutes. Long and slow boiling is pernicious, as well as wasting the liquor: the flower it boils the lower it drops, and singes to your copper; quick boiling has a contrary effect. Essence of malt is extracted by long boiling; for by so doing you may make it as thick as treacle or honey.

After the liquor is properly boiled, run a small quantity over all the coolers, so as to have a proper quantity cold immediately to go to work. If the airiness of your brewhouse will not expedite a quantity soon, you must run a second quantity over the coolers, and let them into shallow tube; put these into any place where there is a thorough air, but where no rain or wet can get to it. Let off the quantity of two baring-tubsful from the first over the second and third coolers, which may be soon got cold, to be ready for a speedy working, and then the remaining part that is in your copper may be quite let out into the first cooler.

In the interim mend your fire and attend to the hops to make a clear passage through the strainer; and as soon as the liquor is done running return to your business of pumping; but remember, that when you have got five or six pailsful, return all the hops into the copper for ale.

[Page] By this time, the quantity of liquor let into your coolers being properly cooled, you must proceed to set your liquor to work; take four quarts of baum, and divide half of it into small vessels, such as basons or mugs, adding to it an equal quantity of wort, which should be almost cold; as soon as it ferments to the top of the vessel put it into two pails, and when that works to the top put one into a baring-tub, and the other into another; when you have half a baring-tub full together, put the like quantity to each of them, cover them, until it comes to a fine head; this may be compleated in three hours: put these two quantities into a working-guile; you may now add as much wort as you have got ready, you cannot work it too cold in open weather.

If you brew in cold frosty weather, keep the brewhouse warm, but never add hot wort, to keep the liquor to blood heat, that being a bad maxim; for hot wort put to cold, as well as cold to hot, is so intemperate in its nature, that it stagnates the proper operation of the baum.

Be careful that your baum be not from foxed beer, that is, beer heated too much by its working, for it is likely to carry the contagion. If your baum be flat, and you cannot procure that which is new, the method of recovering its working is by adding to it a pint of warm sweet-wort of your first letting off, the heat to be of half the degree of milk-warm; then give your mug that contains it a shake, and it will soon gather strength, and be fit for use.

I shall conclude this matter with observing, that a pound of good hops is sufficient for two bushels of malt, for strong beer to keep for four years; twelve bushels to the hogshead.

Your casks being perfectly clean, sweet, and dry, and set on the stand ready to receive the liquor, first skim off the top baum, then proceed to fill your casks quite full, immediately bung and peg them close; bore a hold with a tap-borer near the summit of the stave, at the same distance from the top as the lower tap-hole is from the bottom, for working through [Page] that upper hole which is clean, and more effectual method, than working it over the cask; for by the above method, being so closely confined, it soon sets itself into a convulsive motion, and forces itself fine, provided you attend to the filling of your casks five or six times a day; for by too long an omission it begins to settle, and afterwards being disturbed, it raises a sharp fermentation, which produces an incessant working of a spurious froth that may continue for some weeks; and after all give your beer a crankish taste, which proper attention might have prevented.

Having gone through the practical part of brewing, I shall proceed to instruct the housekeeper in the management of malt liquors, the proper time for brewing; and shall make some observations on the different qualities of water, malt, and hops.

The month of March is generally considered as one of the principal seasons for brewing malt liquors for long keeping; and the reason is, because the air at that time of the year is temperate, and contributes to the good working or fermentation of the liquor, which principally promotes its preservation and keeping good. Very cold as well as very hot weather prevents the free fermentation of working of liquors; so that if you brew in very cold weather, unless you use some means to warm the cellar while new drink is working, it will never clear itself in the manner you wish; and the same misfortune will arise, if, in very hot weather, the cellar is not in a very temperate state; the consequence of all which will be, that such drink will be muddy and sour, perhaps beyond recovery. Such misfortunes often happen, even in the proper season for brewing, and that owing to the badness of a cellar; for when they are dug in springy grounds, they are subject to damps in the winter, the liquor will chill, grow flat and dead. Where cellars are of this nature, it will be adviseable to make your brewings in March, rather than October, for you may keep such cellars temperate in summer, but cannot warm them in winter: [Page] thus the beer brewed in March will have time to settle itself, before the cold can materially injure it.

Cellars for keeping of liquor ought to be built so that no external air can get into them; for the variation of the air abroad, were there free admission of it into the cellars, would cause many alterations in the liquor, and would keep it in so unsettled a state, as to render it unfit for drinking. Some persons, curious in these matters, have double doors to their cellars, with a view that none of the external air may [...] a way into them; and are amply repaid for their care and expence by the goodness of their liquor. The intent of the double door is, to keep one shut while the other is open, that the external air may be excluded. Such cellars, if they lie dry, as they ought to do, are said to be cold in summer and warm in winter; though, in reality, they are constantly the same in point of temperature. They seem, indeed, cold in hot weather, but that is only because we go into them from a hotter air—abroad the same mode of reasoning will hold good, with respect to their appearing warmer in winter. Hence it is evident, that they are only cold or warm, comparatively as the air we come out of is colder or warmer. This should be the peculiar property of a cellar, if we expect to have good liquor out of it.

As for the brewing part, having already considered the matter, what we shall therefore further touch upon, besides speaking of cellaring, will relate to the water, malt, hops, and the proper method of keeping liquors.

The best water is river water, such as is soft, and has partaken of the air and sun; for this easily insinuates itself into the malt, and extracts its virtues; on the contrary, hard waters astringe and bind the pores of the malt, so that its virtues are not freely communicated to the liquor. It is a rule with some, that all water that will mix with soap is fit for brewing, and they will by no means allow of any other; and it has been more than once experienced, that where the same quantity of malt has been used to a [Page] barrel of river water, as to a barrel of spring water, the river water brewing has excelled the other in strength above five degrees in twelve months. It must be observed, that the malt was not only the same in quantity for one barrel as another, but was the same in quality, having been all measured from the same heap; the hops were also the same, both in quality and quantity, and the time of boiling equal in each; they were worked in the same manner, tunned and kept in the same cellar. Here it is evident, the only difference was in the water, and yet one barrel was worth two of the other.

Dorchester beer, which is so much admired, is, for the most part, brewed of chalky water, which is almost every where in that county: and as the soil is generally chalk, the cellars being dug in that dry soil, contribute to the good keeping of their drink; it being of a close texture, and of a drying quality, so as to dissipate damps; for damp cellars, we find by experience, are injurious to the keeping of liquors, as well as destructive to the casks. A constant temperate air digests and soften malt liquors, so that they taste quite smooth on the palate; but in cellars, which are unequal by letting in heats and colds, the liquor is subject to grow stale and sharp. For this reason it is, that liquor brewed for long voyages at sea, should be perfectly ripe and fine before it is exported; for when it has had sufficient time to digest in the cask, and is racked from the bottom or lee, it will bear carriage without injury.

It has been observed, that in proportion to the quantity which is inclosed in one cask, so will it be a longer or shorter time in ripening. A vessel containing two hogsheads of beer, will require twice as much to perfect itself as one of a hogshead: and it is found by experience, that no vessel should be used for strong beer, which is intended to be kept, less than a hogshead; as one of that quantity, if it be fit to draw in a year, has body enough to support it two, three, or four years, if it has strength of malt and hops in it, as the Dorchester beer has.

[Page] Should the water be of a hard nature, it may be softened by exposing it to the air and sun, and infusing into it some pieces of chalk. When the water is set on to boil, in order to be poured on the malt, put into it a quantity of bran, which will soften it a little.

Another matter is to be mentioned, in regard to the preserving of strong beer, and that is, when once the vessel be broached, regard ought to be had to the time in which it will be expended; for if there happens to be a quick draught for it, then it will continue good to the very bottom; but if there be likely to be but a slow draught, then do not draw off quite half before you bottle it, otherwise your beer will grow flat, dead, and sour. This is observed among the curious.

I shall mention two or three particulars relative to malt, which may help those who are unacquainted with brewing. In the first place, the general distinction between one malt and another is only, that the one is high and the other is low dried; that which we call high-dried, will, when brewed, produce a liquor of a deep brown colour; and the other, which is the low-dried, will produce a liquor of a pale colour. The first is dried in such a manner as may be said to be rather scorched than dried, and is far less wholesome than the pale malt. It has also been experienced, that brown malt, although it be well brewed, will sooner turn sharp than the pale malt, if that be fairly brewed.

A very experienced person in the brewing line says, that the brown malt makes rather the best drink, when it is brewed with a coarse river water, such as the river Thames, at London; and that being brewed with such water makes very good ale, but will not keep above five or six months without turning stale and a little sharp, even though he allows fourteen bushels to the hogshead. He says he has tried the high-dried malt to brew beer with for keeping, and hopped it accordingly, and yet he could never brew it so as to drink soft and mellow, like that brewed [Page] with pale malt; there being an [...] quality in high-dried malt, which occasions that distemper commonly called the heart-burn, in those that drink of the ale or beer made of it.

What has been here said of malt is meant that made of barley, for wheat malt, pea malt, or those mixed with barley malt, though they produce a high-coloured liquor, will keep many years, and drink smooth and soft; yet they have the mum flavour.

Many persons, who brewed with high dried barley malt, put a bag, containing about three pints of wheat, into every hogshead of liquor, which has fined it, and made it drink mellow; others have put about three pints of wheat malt into a hogshead, which has produced the same effect. But all malt liquors, however well brewed, may be spoiled by bad cellaring, and be now and then subject to ferment in the cask, and turn thick and sour. The best way to prevent this and bring the liquor to itself is, to open the bung of the cask for two or three days; if that does not stop the fermentation, put in two or three pounds of oyster shells, washed, dried well in an oven, and then beaten to fine powder, stir it a little and it will presently settle the liquor, make it fine and take off the sharp taste. As soon as that is done, draw it off in another vessel, and put a small bag of wheat, or wheat malt, into it, as before directed, or in proportion to the size of the vessel. Sometimes such fermentations will happen in liquor by change of weather, if it be in a bad cellar, and will, in a few months, fall fine of itself, and grow mellow.

Malt high-dried should not be used in brewing till it has been ground ten days or a fortnight, as it then yields much stronger drink than the same quantity of malt just ground. But if you design to keep malt ground some time before you use it, take care to keep it very dry, and the air at that time must be dry. As for pale malt, which has not partaken so much of the fire, it must not remain ground above a week before you use it.

As for hops, the newest are best, though they will remain good two years, but afterwards they begin to lose their good flavour, unless great quantities are kept together, in which case they will keep longer good than them in small quantities; and for their better preservation, they should be kept in a dry and cool place, that they may not lose any of their weight. The method used to recover stale and decayed hops and retain their bitterness, unbag them, sprinkle them with aloes and water, which, when it has proved a bad hop year, has spoiled great quantities of malt liquor about London; for where the water, the malt, the brewers, and the cellars, be each good, a bad hop will spoil all. Hence it is evident, that every one of these particulars, before the brewing is set about, should be attended to, or else you must expect but a bad account of your labour: so likewise the rest of your baum, which you work your liquor with, must be well considered, or a good brewing be spoiled by that alone: and be provided with every thing material before you begin brewing, as the wort will not wait for any thing.

In some remote places they dip whisks into yeast, then beat it well; hang up the whisks with the yeast in them to dry; and if there be no brewing till two months afterwards, the beating and stirring one of [Page] these new whisks in new wort will raise a working, or fermentation in it. It being a rule, that all liquor should be worked well in the tun, or keep before it is put into the vessel, or it will not easily grow fine. Some follow the rule of beating, down the yeast often white in the tun, and keep it working two or three days; observing to put it into the vessel just when the yeast begins to fall. This liquor is very fine: but that quickly put into the vessels will not be very fine for many months.

With respect to the season for brewing liquor to keep, it is to be observed, that if the cellars be subject to the heat of the sun, or warm summer air, it will be best to brew in October, that the liquor may have time to digest before the warm season comes on; and if the cellars be [...]clinable to damps, and to receive water, the best time will be to brew in March. Some experienced brewers always choose to brew with the pale malt in March, and the brown in October; for they suppose, that the pale malt being made with a le's degree of fire than the other, wants the summer sun to ripen it; and so, on the contrary, the brown having had a larger stare of the fire to dry it, is more capable of defending itself against the cold of the winter season. But these are merely matters of opinion.

However careful you have been in attending to all the preceding particulars, yet if the case, be not in good order, still the brewing may be spoiled. New cases accept to give liquor a bad taste if they are not well scalded and seasoned several days successively before used. Old tasks, if they stand any time out of use, they will grow musty.

I shall now proceed concerning the management of bottling malt liquors:—The bottles must be well cleaned and dried, as wet bottles will turn the beer mouldy, or mothery, and a great deal of good beer spoiled thereby. Though the bottles may be clean and dry, yet if the corks be not new and sound, the liquor will be still liable to be damaged; for if the air can get into the bottles the liquor will grow flat, and will never rise. If bottles be corked as they should be, it will be difficult to pull the cork out without a screw, and to draw the cork without breaking, the screw must go through the cork, and then the air will find a passage where the screw has passed, and therefore, a cork once used must be good for nothing. If a cork has once been in a bottle, though it has been drawn with a screw, yet that cork will turn musty as soon as it is exposed to the air, and will communicate its ill flower to the bottle in which it be next put, and spoil the liquor that way. In choice of corks, take those that are soft and clear, and free from specks.

Observe, in the bottling of liquor, the top and middle of the hogshead are the strongest, and will sooner rise in the bottles than the bottom. When once you begin to bottle a vessel of any liquor, be sure not to leave it till all be compleated, or it will taste different.

Should a vessel of liquor begin to grow flat whilst in common draught, bottle it, and into each bottle put a piece of loaf sugar, about the size of a walnut, which will rise and bring it to itself; and to forward its ripening, let some bottles in lay in a warm place: but straw will not do.

Where cellars are not good, holes have been sunk in the ground, and large oil jars put into them; the earth must be filled close to the sides, the tops must be covered up close, and they will keep the bottled [Page] liquor very well. In frosty weather shut off the windows of your cellars, and cover them close with horse-dung; but it is better to have no lights or windows in any cellar, for the reasons before given.

If you have an opportunity of brewing a good stock of small beer in March and October, some of it may be bottled at six months end, and put into every bottle a lump of [...] sugar.

CHAP. XXXVIII.
BAKING.

English and French Bread.

IN the first place, when you build a new oven it is proper to have it round, and not lower from the roof than twenty inches, not higher than twenty-four inches, and a little mouth, with an iron door to shut quite close; then it will take less fire, and keep in the heat better than a long oven and high-roofed, and bake every thing better; and by following the different receipts you cannot be mistaken.

English Bread the London Way.

Take a bushel of good flour, ground about five or six weeks, put it in one end of your trough, and make a hole in the middle of it; take nine quarts of warm water (which the bakers call liquor) and mix with one quart of good yeast, put it into the flour, and stir it well with your hands weak and tough; let it lay till it rises as high as it will go, which will be in about one hour and twenty minutes; mind and watch it when it is at the height, and do not let it fall; then make up your dough with eight quarts more of warm liquor, and one pound of salt, work it well up with your hands; then cover it over with a coarse cloth, or a sack; then put your fire into the oven, and heat it well, and by the time your oven is hot the dough will be ready; then make your dough into loaves of about five pounds each; then sweep out your oven clean, put in your leaves, shut it up close, and two hours and a half will take them; then open your oven and draw them out.

N. B. In summer let your liquor be just blood warm, and in winter a little warmer, and in hard frosty weather as hot as you can beat your hand in it, but not so hot that it will scald the yeast, for if the yeast is scalded it will [...] the whole batch of bread. By these rules you may make a larger of smaller quantity.

Bread without Yeast, by the Help of a Leaven.

Take a lump of dough, about two pounds, of your last making, which has been made with yeast, keep it in a wooden vessel, and cover it well with flour; this is your leaves; then the night before you intend [Page] to bake, put the leaven to a pack of flour, and work them well together with warm liquor; let it lie in a dry wooden vessel, well covered with a dry [...] cloth, and a blanket over the cloth, and keep it in a warm place; this dough kept warm will rise again the next morning, [...] will be sufficient to mix with two or three bushels of flour, being washed up with warm liquor, and a pound of salt to each bushel of flour; when it is well washed up, and thoroughly mixed with all the flour, let it be well covered with the [...] and blanket, until you find it rise; then bound it well and wash it up into leaves and bricks, making the leaves broad, and not so thick and high as done for bread made with yeast; then put it in your oven, and bake it as before directed.

No [...] always keep by you two pounds of the dough of your last baking, [...] covered with flour, to make leaven to serve from [...] to another; the more leaven is put to the flour, the lighter and [...]gy the bread will be; the fresher the leaven, the bread will be the less sour.

French Bread.

Take half a bushel of the best superfine white flour, lay it all one end of the trough, make a hole in the middle of it; mix a pint of good small beer yeast with three quarts of warm liquor, put it in, and mix it up well till it is tough: put a flannel over it, and let it rise as high as it will: (but mind and watch it that it does not fall) when it is at the height, take six quarts of skimmed milk blood warm, the bluer the butter, provided it is sweet, and a pound of salt; (but be sure not to put any milk in with the yeast at first, as that will prevent the yeast from rising, as any thing greasy will) then instead of working it with your hands, as you would dough for English bread, put the ends of your [...]) [...] and work it over your hands till it is quite weak and ropey; then cover it over with a flannel; then put [...] fire into the oven and make it very hot; when it is hot, your dough will be ready; mind, when you take it out, that you use your hands as before, or else you never will get it out until it falls, then it is good for nothing: lay it on the dresses, and instead of a common knife, have a knife made like a chopping-knife to cut it with, then make it up into bricks, or rolls as you choose; the bricks will take one hour and a half baking, the rolls half an hour; (observe to keep your oven close) then draw them out, and either rasp them with a rasp, or chip them with a knife, as you please. You may break in two ounces of butter, when you work it up with the second liquor, if you choose.

Muffins.

Take a bushel of the best white flour and put it into your trough, take three gallons of milk-warm liquor, and mix in a quart of mild [...], or good small beer yeast, and half a pound of salt; stir it well about for a quarter of an hour, then strain it into the flour, and mix your dough as light as you can, and let it lie one hour to rise; then with your hand roll it up, and pull it into little pieces, as big as a large walnut; roll them with your hand like a b [...]ll, lay them on a table, and as fast as you do them put a flannel over them, and be sure to keep your dough covered with flannel; when you have rolled out all your dough, begin to bake the first, and by that time they will be spread out in the right [Page] form; lay them on your plate, in the bottom side begins to change colour, turn them on the other; take great care they do not burn; in that case you will be a better judge of in two or three makings; take care the middle of your plate is not too hot, if it is, put a brick-bat or two in the middle of the fire to slacken the heat. The plate you bake on must be fixed thus: build a place, as if you were going to set a copper, and instead of a copper, a piece of cast iron (in the North of England they have a back-stone, which is a thick slate, and bake these things best) all over the top, fixed in form, just the same as the bottom of a copper, or iron pot and make your fire under with coal, as under a copper. Oat cakes are made the same way, only use fine sifted oatmeal instead of flour, and two gallons of water instead of three; only this, when you pull them to pieces roll them out with a rolling pin with a good deal of flour, cover them with a piece of flannel, and they will rise to a proper thickness; and if you find them too big, or too little, you must roll dough accordingly. Before you eat either muffins or oat cakes, roast them on both sides very crisp, but do not burn them; then with your fingers pull them open, and they will be like a honey-comb; lay in as much butter as you choose, then clap them together again, and put them before the fire; when you think the butter is melted turn them, that both sides may be buttered alike, but do not touch them with a knife, either to spread the butter, or cut them open; if you do, they will he a heavy as lead: only when they are buttered cut them across with a knife.

N. B. Some flour will take a quart more liquor than other flour; then you must add more liquor, or shake in more flour, in making it up, for the dough must be as light as possible.

To preserve a large Stock of Yeast, which will keep and be of Use for several Months.

When you have yeast in plenty, take a quantity of it, stir and work it well with a whisk until it becomes liquid and thin; then get a large wooden platter, cooler, or tub, clean and dry, and with a soft brush lay a thin layer of the yeast on the thing you use, and turn the mouth downwards, that no dust may fall upon it, but so that the air may get under to dry it; when that coat is very dry, then lay on another, till you have a sufficient quantity, even two or three inches thick, to serve for several months, always taking care the yeast in the tub is very dry before you lay more on; when you have occasion to use this yeast, cut a piece off and lay it in warm water; stir it together, and it will be [...] for use.

FINIS.

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Title statement

The new art of cookery, according to the present practice; being a complete guide to all housekeepers, on a plan entirely new; consisting of thirty-eight chapters. ... / By Richard Briggs, many years cook at the Globe Tavern Fleet-Street, the White Hart Tavern, Holborn, and now at the Temple Coffee-House, London.English art of cookery

Briggs, Richard.

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Text Creation Partnership,

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2005-12.

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N18606

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N18606

ID [STC]

Evans 24145

ID [NOTIS]

APY1608

ID [IMAGE-SET]

24145

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99028680

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Early American Imprints, 1639-1800 ; no. 24145.

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— The new art of cookery, according to the present practice; being a complete guide to all housekeepers, on a plan entirely new; consisting of thirty-eight chapters. ... / By Richard Briggs, many years cook at the Globe Tavern Fleet-Street, the White Hart Tavern, Holborn, and now at the Temple Coffee-House, London., English art of cookery, Briggs, Richard..

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xii, xi-xvi, 557, [1] p. ; 18 cm. (12mo)

Printed for W. Spotswood, R. Campbell, and B. Johnson.,. Philadelphia: :: M,DCC,XCII. [1792]. (Advertisement for books sold by W. Spotswood, p. [558].)

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Created by converting TCP files to TEI P5 using tcp2tei.xsl, TEI @ Oxford.

Editorial practices

EEBO-TCP is a partnership between the Universities of Michigan and Oxford and the publisher ProQuest to create accurately transcribed and encoded texts based on the image sets published by ProQuest via their Early English Books Online (EEBO) database (http://eebo.chadwyck.com). The general aim of EEBO-TCP is to encode one copy (usually the first edition) of every monographic English-language title published between 1473 and 1700 available in EEBO.

EEBO-TCP aimed to produce large quantities of textual data within the usual project restraints of time and funding, and therefore chose to create diplomatic transcriptions (as opposed to critical editions) with light-touch, mainly structural encoding based on the Text Encoding Initiative (http://www.tei-c.org).

The EEBO-TCP project was divided into two phases. The 25,363 texts created during Phase 1 of the project have been released into the public domain as of 1 January 2015. Anyone can now take and use these texts for their own purposes, but we respectfully request that due credit and attribution is given to their original source.

Users should be aware of the process of creating the TCP texts, and therefore of any assumptions that can be made about the data.

Text selection was based on the New Cambridge Bibliography of English Literature (NCBEL). If an author (or for an anonymous work, the title) appears in NCBEL, then their works are eligible for inclusion. Selection was intended to range over a wide variety of subject areas, to reflect the true nature of the print record of the period. In general, first editions of a works in English were prioritized, although there are a number of works in other languages, notably Latin and Welsh, included and sometimes a second or later edition of a work was chosen if there was a compelling reason to do so.

Image sets were sent to external keying companies for transcription and basic encoding. Quality assurance was then carried out by editorial teams in Oxford and Michigan. 5% (or 5 pages, whichever is the greater) of each text was proofread for accuracy and those which did not meet QA standards were returned to the keyers to be redone. After proofreading, the encoding was enhanced and/or corrected and characters marked as illegible were corrected where possible up to a limit of 100 instances per text. Any remaining illegibles were encoded as <gap>s. Understanding these processes should make clear that, while the overall quality of TCP data is very good, some errors will remain and some readable characters will be marked as illegible. Users should bear in mind that in all likelihood such instances will never have been looked at by a TCP editor.

The texts were encoded and linked to page images in accordance with level 4 of the TEI in Libraries guidelines.

Copies of the texts have been issued variously as SGML (TCP schema; ASCII text with mnemonic sdata character entities); displayable XML (TCP schema; characters represented either as UTF-8 Unicode or text strings within braces); or lossless XML (TEI P5, characters represented either as UTF-8 Unicode or TEI g elements).

Keying and markup guidelines are available at the Text Creation Partnership web site.