Sunday, June 4.

I TOOK care to appear in print, espec­ially as my first step was to pay my re­spects to the American ambassador, John Adams, Esq but his absence turned my attention to the churches, it being then the height of their devotion.

THE Dutch churches I have seen are all divested of those gaudy ornaments, so common in France and other catho­lick countries: On the contrary, they have a certain melancholy gloom, owing to the walls being covered with the arms of the principal families, worked upon black velvet, and bordered with broad black frames. These give the appear­ance, or at least an idea, of the inside of large tombs. The Dutch priests were [Page 70] thumping the cushions to large and crowded audiences, who stood all with their hats on.

FROM the churches I repaired to the grand parade, where the garrison of the Hague was reviewed by the prince of Orange, the two young princes, and a great concourse of nobility and citizens.

THE troops are bold stout fellows, dressed in blue faced with red. I squeez­ed in close to the prince, and had a fair chance to contemplate—the man—with­out being governed by appearances, which are indeed much against him. He is of a middling stature, effeminate, with a disagreeable stooping gait; add to which a stupid and inanimate countenance.

AFTER saying thus much of the prince, can I venture to observe to an English­man, that we were five in company, and [Page 71] were all struck equally with an idea, that there is a strong family resemblance be­tween the prince and the king of Eng­land, who you know are related by the marriage of the princess Anne, daughter to George II, and mother to the prince?

FROM parade we strolled through the principal squares, and many other parts of this superb and truly elegant city, which delighted us extremely. Though the magnificent buildings on the bomb quay at Rotterdam far excelled any oth­ers I had then seen in Europe—yet the Hague eclipses and must exceed, the most brilliant imagination. It is generally al­lowed to be the most elegant city in Eu­rope—perhaps in the world.

AT two o'clock I returned again to the grand hôtel belonging to the thir­teen United States of America, lately purchased by Mr. Adams, for the resi­dence [Page 72] of our future ambassadors. It is decently furnished, has a large library, and an elegant little garden. I was re­ceived in the most cordial manner, din­ed with the ambassador, and in the af­ternoon we took an airing in his car­riage, through the best part of the city, and then to the pleasant fishing town of Schewling, two miles from the Hague, upon the borders of the sea. The weath­er being fine, the road and side walks were full of people, all pushing forward, on foot and in carriages, to enjoy the sea breeze, and walk on the beach.

THE novelty, and the roaring of the uncouth cook maids, with which the waggons were crowded, exceedingly a­mused me; but their singing, or rath­er yelling, was comparatively like the squalling of as many cats, roasting over a roaring fire: They seemed to vie with each other which should make the most [Page 73] noise, but without the least harmony or unison;—their mouths were frightful­ly distended—and their faces ready to burst with their efforts—which, added to their singular dress, produced a laughable scene.^*

[Page 74]THE ambassador's livery is the same as the American uniform, which is known by all ranks of people, who pay so much respect to it, that a few more jaunts to Schewling would have put me under the necessity of buying a new hat.

[Page 75]THE road is charming, and entirely shaded by a double row of trees, so ex­actly lined that we saw the steeple of the village church from the gates of the city, through an arch formed by the limbs of the trees.

THE north sea opened to our view all at once, at the end of the avenue. Nature has kindly provided a barrier against the ocean, by the downs which are thrown up along the principal part of the coast of this low country; which I also ob­served on the coast of the Austrian Neth­erlands, in travelling through that coun­try a few years past. But they owe their principal security to the dykes and dams.

I AM told there was in this village, a kind of waggon constructed by prince Maurice's principal engineer, which they say would go upon the sand along the [Page 76] coast at the rate of seven leagues an hour, by help of fails.

PEOPLE often bathe here in the sum­mer; but what is very singular, I am as­sured that the fishermen's daughters, not only guard the men's clothes, but wipe them dry with towels as they leave the water; and this with perfect sang froid; which plainly proves how far custom and habit may reconcile us to any thing.

THE coast was full of small fishing vessels. Some we saw at sea.

THE count de Bentinck's famous gar­dens are upon this road, and are well worth seeing. They belonged former­ly to the duke of Portland, who was particularly patronized by William III. They are distinguished from all other gardens in the province, by their style, simplicity, and picturesque views; such [Page 77] as a fine orangery, a grotto, water spouts, a forest, terrace walks, hills, flower gar­dens, a lake, and a menage; in short, the eye is on every side delighted.

ON our return we passed the prince, walking, with a numerous retinue.— Spent the evening with Mr. Adams, and the famous Monsieur Dumas, his secretary, who eminently distinguished himself in the early part of our con­test, at the court of France, as well as by gaining us weighty friends in this re­publick.

WITH two gentlemen of such en­lightened genius and deep erudition, it would have been my own fault not to have sifted out every information I was so eager to obtain relative to this country, and the present convulsed state of its complicated government.— I have taken my notes and shall touch [Page 78] upon this string, when I am plus au faite.

Monday, June 5.

BREAKFASTED with Mr. Adams—af­ter which we visited la Maison du Bois, which is situated about a mile from the Hague, in the centre of the largest nat­ural wood in Holland, and the only one, except the wood near Haerlem.

THIS palace was built by the widow of prince Henry Frederick, for a house of mourning. It is an elegant structure and entirely sequestered from the gay world, being in a manner embosomed in a grove, cut into many romantick walks leading from the palace, which has a large garden behind it. Over the gate we saw the arms of Orange Nassau, and entered by a flight of steps.

[Page 79]THE grand saloon, with its exquisite paintings, are the principal objects of at­tention, and mostly executed by those great masters, Rubens and Van der Worf, representing in very large pieces, the brilliant triumphs of Frederick Henry, who finished the fabrick of independence for his country, which was founded by his immortal father, and vigorously car­ried on by his gallant brother Prince Maurice.

AS I was born with a tincture of a painter's soul, I found in this saloon, a luxurious feast for the eyes. The widow Amelia in her weeds, is represented in the middle of the ceiling of the cupola over the gallery, where the musicians former­ly played, to sooth her melancholy.

RUBENS' Vulcan in his shop, placed very properly near the fire, is esteemed the fin­est in the collection: But what pleased [Page 80] me most, was the full length portraits of William I, and Prince Maurice; who are also represented in busts of mar­ble placed over the chimney.

THE floors are black walnut, covered with rich carpets. In one of the apart­ments we saw a valuable India japanned railing, enclosing the princess's bed; which is inlaid with the mother of pearl, and cost twenty eight thousand guilders. In another apartment was shewn us a flow­er piece, the work of a Flemish master, and valued at fifteen thousand florins. I was so enraptured with the paint­ings, that after a full hour's eager ex­amination, I left them with regret.

MR. Adams then discharged his car­riage, and we walked two hours more about the forest, which was very pleas­ing to me, notwithstanding the road were heavy and sandy. The lofty oak [Page 81] seemed to be so promiscuously thrown together, that it revived in my breast a lively picture of many such situations I had seen in the course of my tour through the United States of America, some years since. Our eyes were delighted with the fine plumage of the birds, whose sweet melody reechoed through the woods.

DINED at the American hôtel; and in the afternoon we made an excursion to the neat village of Ryswick, situated be­tween the Hague and Delft, two miles from the former. The road is well paved, and beautifully adorned by lofty trees and fine meadows on each side. This village is famous for the peace concluded here in 1697.

THE palace is situated about a quarter of a mile from the village. It belongs to the prince of Orange, and is nobly built with hewn stone; but going fast [Page 82] to ruin. The assembly chamber is cele­brated for the echo of a whisper from the opposite walls, the same as the whis­pering gallery at St. Paul's in London. It is decorated with a marble stair case, marble floors, fine gardens, and a good terrace.

SPENT the afternoon in viewing dif­ferent places, which will come under a general description of the Hague. The evening I passed with Mr. A—, who introduced me to the Dutch ambassador (on the point of going to the court of London) the famous author Dr. Mc Lane, and several other gentry who came to make their visits.

TUESDAY NIGHT, 12 o'clock.

I AM amply provided with letters of introduction from Mr. A— and Mons. Dumas, for Leyden and Amsterdam; [Page 83] and intend leaving this charming place in the morning, on my way thither: But I must now sum up all I have to say about the Hague in as few words as possible.

I SPENT this forenoon in rambling at large in this city; dined again with Mr. A—, and in the afternoon we took an airing to Delft. We passed through several barriers, rode a circumference round the ramparts of that city, and re­turned in the evening along the edge of the canal. But I must not omit to tell you that if I had not exerted myself, I should probably have witnessed the un­pleasant scene of one of the most brilliant characters of the age (Mr. A——) scram­bling in a muddy canal, his wig afloat upon the surface, and all from a laudable zeal to save a child then drowning; the moment he saw the struggling infant bobbing on the top, I thought he would [Page 84] have darted headforemost into the canal, regardless of his personal safety: But I restrained his impetuosity for a moment, as a lusty fellow had that instant soused himself in.

IN popularity and influence at this court, Mr. A— undoubtedly bears the palm in the diplomatick body. He is universally esteemed, for his profound penetration and extensive political knowl­edge, the first character our western world has yet produced.

HE talks but little—thinks a great deal —and what he says is always to the pur­pose; and in point of future events, his words seem to be the words of an oracle. He may indeed be considered as a veteran in politicks, having long acted a conspic­uous and important part, and acquired vast experience at several of the courts of Europe, in a very serious crisis.

[Page 85]THOUGH he does not ape the graces of a Chesterfield, yet we have found in him the more important accomplishments of an ambassador; for his stern republican virtues, have in every instance rose supe­riour to the duplicity and affected con­sequence of European courtiers. Amer­ica stands indebted to him principally for three important acquisitions—The de­feat of Sir Joseph Yorke, and securing the patronage of Holland, in a critical moment—the extension of our limits— and the security of our fisheries. Hav­ing completely accomplished every object of his ambition relative to America, it appears probable that this country may yet be indebted to his active genius, as an instrument in producing some reforms in the system of their heavy moulded and convulsed government.

HAGUE is situated only two miles from the sea, and nine S. W. from Leyden: [Page 86] And notwithstanding it is termed a vil­lage (because it is not walled and sends no deputies to the States) yet it enjoys other advantages, sufficient to rank it a­mong the first cities of Europe, both for opulence and beauty.

LORD Chesterfield declares it to be the most elegant city in the world.

IT contains six thousand houses and forty five thousand inhabitants, surround­ed by a canal bordered by lofty trees. It is the seat of their government, and the residence of all foreign ministers, which together draw such a concourse as con­tributes principally to the support of the inhabitants.

THE situation is esteemed healthy, be­ing somewhat elevated, and in the heart of a fruitful country, surrounded by wall­ed cities, villages, beautiful country [Page 87] houses, magnificent gardens, and charm­ing meadows. Many of the streets are finely shaded, and in general spacious. The houses are for the most part built with hewn stone, and of the first rate, both in size and elegance.

THE squares are numerous, and all planted with large trees. The inhabit­ants are a model of the Parisians; very polite, and entirely a la François; seldom speaking their native language, and much addicted to gambling. The ladies of the beau monde are fond of gallantry and dissipation, and are in general very hand­some. The palace of the prince of Y—g is esteemed the finest building at the Hague; and those of the princes G—t and V—st, are all compara­tively like as many palaces; they are fronted by a handsome grove, and a canal.

THE prince G—t's has a noble effect. It is half a mile long, very broad, with a [Page 88] canal passing through it, and finely shad­ed with trees, and a number of stone bridges (with iron railings) crossing it.

THE Vyverburg is also fronted by the most elegant houses on one side; oppo­site to which are stately trees, with a spa­cious bason of water faced with hewn stone between, and a romantick little island in its centre, full of trees. Near this is a very large grove of trees, with a railed mall in the middle. The most material building is the court, situ­ated nearly in the centre of the town, where the Stadtholder resides.

THE council of state, the council of nobility, the courts of justice, and in short all publick business, centres here. It is surrounded by a fosse, and the en­trances into it are by three draw bridges, where the guards are stationed ready to raise them in case of a riot; this does [Page 89] not seem altogether an eligible situation for the free debates of a republican as­sembly, eternally jealous of their stadt­holder; nor entirely consistent, as men are often under influence from their lo­cal positions.

THIS palace is very old, which, in my estimation, makes more in favour of its exteriors than any particular elegance it may be thought to possess.

THE great saloon is in the antique style, and full of the trophies of victo­ries gained over their enemies.

THE chamber of the states general is hung on one side with rich tapestry, or­namented with the portraits of six stadt­holders: On the other some excellent pieces, and all at full length. The cham­ber where the twelve years truce was set­tled, between Spain and Holland, in 1609, [Page 90] is also ornamented with the same por­traits, and the republick represented over the chimney, under the figure of a woman —the room is very luminous and over­looks the Vyver.

THE council chamber contains a string of paintings, representing the actions of Claudius Civilius, by Holbein, for which lord Bolingbroke offered 10,000l. ster­ling. This Claudius, was a Batavian by birth, and held a principal command in the Roman army, but proved a traitor in the end, and, like our infamous Arnold, was afterwards their most implacable en­emy.

IN the ambassadors audience room, there is an excellent painting of William III. The prince's cabinet, on the oppo­site side of the court, is undoubtedly the greatest curiosity at the Hague. Con­noisseurs admire, with justice, his collec­tion [Page 91] of precious stones, fossils, miner­als, petrefactions, and other natural curi­osities.

THE library pictures, and the gallery of paintings, next claim your particular attention. These paintings consist prin­cipally of sacred and historical pieces, some landscapes and portraits, the works of the famous Raphael, Rubens, Holbein, &c.

THE celebrated de Witt's two patriot brothers, the mortal enemies of the prince of Orange, were massacred by a misguided rabble at the state prison near the palace.

THE other publick buildings of note, are the cloister church, the hôtel d' Op­dam, the Jews synagogue, the foundery, prince Maurice's palace, poor house, lep­ers' house, spin houses, town house, and the French play house.

[Page 92]THE celebrated fair in the month of May was one of their principal amuse­ments, as they were formerly all masked in the streets, but now they only walk in parties, to buy trinkets, &c.

WEDNESDAY, June 7.

THIS morning at nine o'clock, I left the Hague, on my way to Leyden. We had a strong gale against us, which did not however sensibly check our progress.

WE were about three hours perform­ing this trip. The canal, the whole way was very spacious (say about fifty feet wide) and the water above the level of the country, which added much to the advantage of our prospect; which was in every respect equal in feats, summer houses, and the face of the country, to that already described between Rotterdam and Delft: But from the continual pass­ing [Page 93] of trukschutes, and not understand­ing the abrupt orders of our skipper, I was frequently in danger, on the top of the boat, of getting my legs tripped up by the rope; but this may be easily a­voided, by keeping below, which my ea­ger curiosity would by no means listen to.

I formed an acquaintance with an in­telligible inhabitant of Leyden, who, on our approach to the city, shewed me the ground from whence the Spaniards un­der general Baldsez besieged this place; as also the vestiges of one of their old forts.

I COULD not contemplate the horrors of this cruel six months siege, without a heart felt sympathy; especially when I recollected the tragick picture given of it in Watson's Phillip.

[Page 94]HE says—"When the Spaniards en­deavoured to intimidate them into a sur­render of the town, they nobly answered —'that they had maturely weighed their situation, and were resolved to perish, with their wives and children, in the flames of the city, kindled by their own hands, or die with hunger, rather than submit to the Spaniards'—the misery which only existed in imagination, dur­ing the two first months of the siege, was at last fatally realized as they were reduced to the hard necessity of eating their dogs and horses."

LEYDEN is situated six miles from the sea, and nineteen south of Amsterdam.

IN point of size, it yields only to Am­sterdam, and is as neat and pleasant as any town in the republick. It is sup­posed to contain forty thousand souls, [Page 95] which is indeed a small number in pro­portion to its size.

THE city is well fortified, with a wide ditch, adorned with rows of trees; the buildings are beautiful, and the streets in general very spacious, and perfectly clean and white, particularly broad street, which runs quite through the city, from the Hague gate to the Utrecht gate: This street rises in the middle, and is finely paved. The others have in general a canal in the middle, adorned as usual, with stately trees, some three rows on a side, which give them the appearance of so many alleys of a beautiful garden.

THE city is built on the old Rhine, which divides it into fifty islands, of which thirty one may be sailed round in boats. It has one hundred and forty five bridges (built of stone) with iron railings, one hundred and eighty streets, and forty two towers on the walls.

[Page 96]THE stadthouse is an old long struc­ture, built in 1597, in the true Dutch style. The building has nothing re­markable to claim a traveller's notice; but there are however some fine paintings in the grand chamber—particularly a large one representing the citizens of Leyden, when relieved from the horrid siege (already mentioned) by boats com­ing to their relief over an artificial sea. The best painting is a whimsical repre­sentation of the day of judgment, by the famous Luke Leyden, who is said to be the first modern painter who had true ideas of perspective: This painting is certainly the production of the most fer­tile imagination; but with what just­ness he has delineated the confusion of this important and awful day, remains yet to be decided.—He died in 1533.

THE largest church, is a vast pile, but in other respects, merits no other partic­ular [Page 97] notice, than to pay the tribute of homage due to the manes of that great physician and philosopher, Boerhaave, who enlightened the world with the flame of his genius; his monument is admired for its elegant simplicity.

THE reputation of this great man ex­tended into China: A mandarin wrote to him with this inscription—"To BOER­HAAVE in Europe;"—and the letter came regularly to him.

THE city of Leyden have raised a mon­ument in the church of St. Peter to the salutary genius of Boerhaave, "Salutife­ro Boerhaave genio sacrum." It consists of an urn upon a pedestal of black marble; six heads, four of which represent the four ages of life, and two, the sciences in which Boerhaave excelled, form a group issuing between the urn and its support­ers. The capital of the basis is decorat­ed with a drapery of white marble, in [Page 98] which the artist has shewn the different em­blems of disorders and their remedies. A­bove upon the surface of the pedestal is the medallion of Boerhaave; at the extrem­ity of the frame a ribbon displays the favourite motto of this learned man, Sim­plex sigillum veri.—truth unarrayed. Boer­haave quitted the stage of an active and useful life in 1738, aged sixty nine years.

WE saw an old castle in the middle of the town, called the Burg, which was, ac­cording to tradition, built in the ninth century; it is six hundred and ten feet in circumference, and we ascended the top by fifty steps; from whence we com­manded a complete and charming view of the city, the adjacent meadows, downs, and the Haerlem sea. Within the Burg there is a well of great depth, in which (according to the history of the Span­ish siege under Baldsez) the inhabitants caught a large fish, which they shewed [Page 99] in triumph from the walls to the enraged Spaniards. They pretend also that there is a communication from the bottom of this well under ground to Catwyk.

THE university is highly worthy at­tention. It was founded in 1575, by the states, in gratitude for their brave defence, and is the principal of the five which are in the United Provinces, viz. Leyden, Utrecht, Franeker (in Friesland) Groningen and Harderwicke. The build­ing is old and awkward; but the pro­fessors have been the most eminent in Europe, such as Liprices, Scaliger, Sal­marius, Heinsius, and the renowned Boerhaave.

THE botanical garden, with its stat­ues, the cabinet of natural curiosities, the library, anatomy, petrefactions, and fossils, are very fine, and well attended. In the physical garden we saw the Amer­ican [Page 100] aloe, which blossoms only once a century, green and bohea tea, coffee, and a vast variety of what I am very inade­quate to say much about, curiously dis­played. Among the natural curiosities I was shewn many wonderful phenome­na in nature.

THE library is only open to men of letters twice a week. This university enjoys many great privileges, even to in­flict death; but the professors are subser­vient to the court of Holland.

THE manufactures of this place were formerly very extensive, particularly in blue and black superfine broad cloths, which they had the secret of dying to greater perfection than any other nation (as the French now have the scarlet;) but they have declined very much of late years: They manufacture also narrow cloths and camblets.

[Page 101]THERE are many fine seats in the vi­cinity of Leyden which strangers visit out of curiosity. Their butter is excellent.

DINED at the Lion d'Or. Immediate­ly after dinner I sallied forth alone, which is not always the best method of acquir­ing knowledge in a strange country—as one is obliged to depend on very precari­ous information.—But it is attended with some advantages, as one is at leisure to make observations on the general man­ners of the people unrestrained—espec­ially their treatment of strangers. I went into a dozen shops; some un­derstood me in French; but with those who did not speak French I had like to have unhinged my under jaw in labour­ing—without bringing forth six words of their language. I conceited myself looking like one of their tobacco head signs, with my mouth horridly distorted.—They are indeed civil, but have not that pleasing [Page 102] anxiety to help out a stranger, so pecu­liar to the French women, who hold a foreigner kindly by the button of his coat, and in a manner hammer words into his brain, with their fore finger pressing gently upon his sleeve.

I REMARKED in this Don Quixote excursion, that the common class of peo­ple (such as shopkeepers, &c.) are very serious—their sensibility keen—they are easy to blush—they cannot support a joke or compliment—the first their jeal­ousy construes into an insult—the last confuses them: They laugh with pain, and never without cause—and when the laugh of the company falls on one pair of shoulders, their sensibility is always stabbed to the quick, and proclaimed openly to the whole company by mes­sengers flying from the heart and every irritable part of the body, bursting into a blaze upon their cheeks. Such being the [Page 103] effect of a joke in Holland, surely every generous mind will wave this resource of amusing company, and wisely measure his conduct in all countries, by the preju­dices and prevailing customs of its inhab­itants; who are always governed by some general caprice, peculiar to themselves.

I FELL in fortunately with the deacon of the presbyterian church, who spoke French perfectly: The moment he found I was an American, the muscles of his face and the expression of his eye plainly declared his partiality for my country; he left his affairs, and I found him very intelligent; to his information, with what I collected from Mons. Luzac, I am prin­cipally indebted for the account I have already given of Leyden.

I FORGOT to mention that this church is the identical one, where the original Brownists worshipped, previously to form­ing [Page 104] their first establishment in Plymouth, Newengland, in 1620. The building is very old and inelegant; but I viewed it with more abstracted satisfaction than a palace. The deacon assured me that Mr. A— could not refrain from tears, in contemplating this ancient structure; a veneration and homage due to the vir­tuous founders of Newengland, and wor­thy of this great man.

SUPPED with Mons. Luzac, the fa­mous lawyer, to whom I had letters. I was charmed with his conversation, and found him ready to answer me any ques­tions, in any language; but as I am con­fined to two, we conversed in them in­differently.

THIS gentleman is celebrated through­out Europe for his uncommon talents and extensive knowledge; and more par­ticularly for his patriotism, and being the [Page 105] editor of the Leyden Gazette, which is universally esteemed the best in circula­tion.

AT eleven o'clock I returned home to my lodgings, along the sides of the canals by the light of a dim moon; but what was very singular in so large a city, all was as quiet and hush as in the open country, and not a soul stirring—owing to the decline of population. Mons. Luzac says they formerly estimated sev­enty thousand inhabitants.

THE English woollen manufactories have given it a fatal stab.

THURSDAY, June 8.

AT nine o'clock this pleasant morning we were moving through another fine canal, seemingly like going on the road to Paradise.

[Page 106]I POSSESSED the roof with a naval of­ficer (of capital connexions, if I can credit his assertion;) among other circumstances, he mentioned, a singular method of duel­ing in Holland, among the vulgar, with short knives. The contending parties are happily confined to the face, which they defend with as much dexterity with their short knives, as Frenchmen do their bodies with long swords; but they owe their safety more to a singular knack of throwing back their bodies.

WHILE we were exchanging truks­chutes on our way—the men and women were all piss ants promiscuously en concert— which I find they can do with as good a grace—as Sterne's Madame Ramboulet at Paris.

WE traversed over a pleasant coun­try between the downs of Haerlem lake on our right, and the downs which run [Page 107] along parallel with the ocean on our left. Within a few miles of Haerlem the country assumes a new aspect, be­ing all sweetly diversified, in a continu­ed chain of beautiful and elegant seats; a large forest, and a variety of delightful views.

IT was in this forest, that the celebrat­ed Laurensz Jansez Koster, alderman of Haerlem, first suggested the invention of printing with types, in 1440. He was rambling carelessly alone, and amusing himself in cutting out letters in pieces of wood; with which he made some impres­sions, which led to the types: And it is to this fortunate chance that mankind owe the facility of communicating their ideas. John Faust, a servant of the Alderman's, stole off the types to Mentz, where he pretended to conjuration, and assumed to himself the merit of the discovery. This is the same Doctor Faustus so much [Page 108] known among the vulgar in America for his league with the devil, &c.

IMMEDIATELY after dinner we went to see the first essays Koster made with his wooden types, which are to be seen in the type manufactory opposite to the old ca­thedral. His statue, with an elegant Latin inscription, is in the town house. The world stand indebted to the late in­genious Baskerville of Birmingham, in England, for the most elegant improve­ment in the art of printing. We exam­ined the process of making types, which is very curious and expeditious.

From hence we viewed the old cathe­dral, where we saw the first organ in the world, made at Haerlem by the ingenious Mullar, in 1738. It is a stupendous piece of grandeur and ingenuity, contain­ing eight thousand pipes, the largest of which are sixteen inches diameter, and [Page 109] thirty eight feet long. It has sixty eight stops, and imitates most admirably, the human voice, solus, or in chorus; differ­ent kinds of birds, trumpets, flutes, fifes, and a kettle drum. They play the or­gan two days in the week, for the a­musement of strangers and the citizens; but, if by particular desire, it will cost a ducat to the organist and a gratuity to the blower.

There are two silver bells upon the church, which were taken by the famous Admiral Braakel (whose tomb I saw at Rotterdam) at Damietta in Egypt; as also three small ships suspended in the church, with saws on their sterns, repre­senting the cutting of the chain of the Nile already mentioned.

WE were shewn in this church bullets sticking in the sides of the walls, which were fired by the Spaniards during the [Page 110] terrible siege they sustained in 1572, a­gainst the duke of Alva's son, count Frederick.

THE city was gallantly defended by four thousand men, who were heroically supported by the women; but at length famine obliged them to yield; when two thousand people were the instant victims of Spanish fury, contrary to the express terms of capitulation.

HAERLEM lies about four miles from the sea, has eight gates, is built of brick, and the streets resemble those of Leyden. By an exact estimation, made about fifty years ago, this city contained seven thou­sand nine hundred and sixty three houses, and fifty thousand people; at present the numbers do no exceed forty thousand.

THEIR trade is chiefly with Amster­dam, and principally in linen, ribbons, [Page 111] some guazes, and tapes, of which they weave fifty pieces at a time by the aid of mills.

ITS situation, lying contiguous to Haerlem lake, and the peculiar slimy qualities of its water being more favour­able to bleaching than any other, gives them a superiour advantage in the white­ness of their linen.

THE Irish formerly sent vast quan­tities of linen to be bleached here annu­ally.

THE meadows all around the country are as white as our American fields after a snow storm.

THE stadthouse is a large building; where we saw several fine paintings in the prince's appartment, particularly that which represents the golden age.

[Page 112]LATE in the afternoon, we left Haer­lem and embarked for Amsterdam upon an elevated canal, running in a direct line, with a row of trees and stone posts upon our right. About half way we exchanged boats, and traversed across a little causeway which divides Haerlem lake upon our right, from the river Y upon our left, which falls by Amsterdam into the Zuder sea. This lake is four­teen miles over each way, and was form­ed by an inundation about three centu­ries past, which buried seventy two towns and villages in its progress, and afforded a perfect representation of the flood in miniature—every living creature, and all the effects in the country, floating pro­miscuously—some on the tops of the houses—others hanging to the limbs of trees, &c. &c. This famous lake would be only ranked as a pond in America, where nature forms every thing upon a broad scale—here it is thought more of, [Page 113] than we think of our lake Superiour, which is capable of receiving three such republicks upon its area.

FROM the top of the causeway we had a full view both of the lake and river; as well as the stately palace of Zwanen­berg, where the directors of the dykes and canals assemble.

THE canal led in a straight line from the causeway to Amsterdam, which we saw most of the way before us: But the variety we so justly expected to meet near the metropolis was by no means so pleas­ing as in entering Haerlem—indepen­dent of a strong stench rising from the stagnated canal water.

I TRAVERSED over the best part of Amsterdam before I came to my lodg­ings, viz. at the first bible in the Hier Graght. I find the best inns dignify [Page 114] their signs, by so many bibles. Dust and fatigue obliged me soon to send off for a hairdresser; and then to a surgeon to shave—for you must know, there are no shavers in Holland but professional sur­geons—and commercial shavers.— Adieu! Good night!

SATURDAY.

I EMPLOYED the whole day in taking a cursory view of this extensive metropo­lis of the Seven Provinces; as well as the [Page 116] harbour, and a forest of shipping, which do not appear so numerous as upon the Thames. Viewed the docks, and saw several new men of war of seventy four guns, and several old ones, which they convey in and out of their artificial docks, and quite to the Texel, by the aid of camels; a curious invention, which re­ceives their hulls within its body.

WE next viewed a clergyman's cab­inet of natural curiosities—a great, and bigoted antiquarian: The collection was indeed extremely curious; but he dwelt on the latent merits of every object with so much ardour that we were glad to ef­fect our retreat after some difficulty.

FROM thence, chance directed me into the Jews' synagogue; here I remained a full hour; and as it was the first time I was ever in a synagogue of a Saturday evening, I was much pleased with this [Page 117] singular novelty—as well as the angelick shrill notes of a beautiful young lad, accompanied with those of an old fellow, (well known in the musical world by the name of Leonar) who was piping with his hollow, grum belly, a most admirable basso—indeed I could hardly persuade myself I was not deceived by a fine in­strument, until a near approach to the altar convinced me the musick was vocal.

AS the sun verged towards the horizon, the voices, and agitation of the whole congregation, increased to such vehe­mence, and gave them such frightful looks, that I was almost apprehensive they were falling into strong convulsions. Stunned with their bellowing, I was glad to retreat to the open air, not only for the safety of my head—but pockets—for in fact they looked, for the most part, like shabby theives and pickpockets.

[Page 118]THE women were all in galleries, peep­ing through lattices.

SUNDAY.

DEVOTED this day to rambling at large; in the afternoon at church.

MONDAY.

VIEWED the stadthouse thoroughly, a description of which will come with Am­sterdam. We saw from the top, the Zuy­der sea, Haerlem lake, and this vast city, and a cloud of shipping below us; though the prospect encompassed a con­siderable range of country, and a rich feast for contemplation, yet it does not equal the prospect from St. Laurence's church in Rotterdam.

THE chime on the stadthouse is sup­posed to be the finest in Europe; we ex­amined [Page 119] it throughout—an immense work indeed—we waited on the roof until it played; it is so contrived like an organ, that a man can play upon it with the same ease.

WE were shewn all the curiosities in this celebrated building, and were charm­ed with the paintings; in particular the one by Vandyke, which represents the duke of Alva, in conference with the bur­geoise of Amsterdam, before they abjured the Spanish yoke; this painting strongly represents that dark and bloody charac­ter he afterwards exhibited to the world; at the same time a bold and martial as­pect.

AT two o'clock I went upon the ex­change and delivered my several letters of introduction from Mr. A—. This exchange is longer than London, but not so large, nor will it hold a compari­son [Page 120] either with that of London, or Rot­terdam, in neatness or elegance, being built with brick, and divested of orna­ments. At full change it was complete­ly crowded. As I had nothing more than curiosity to engage my attention, I retired into one corner, to contemplate the scene; which led me to compare this exchange to a glass beehive I saw at the famous Wildman's at the foot of High­gate hill, which was to all intents Am­sterdam change in miniature. The buz was the same—the eagerness of the bees crowding into the hive; and their in­dustry and ardour to collect the hon­ey—was all the same—but it would be rather illiberal to carry the idea so far, as to suppose them all a set of insects, in general actuated by noth­ing beyond the ideas of a bee, who trips from flower to flower, and roams abroad in the wide world, to suck in the sweets of every plant, with no other [Page 121] view than to lay in a winter's stock for his dear self— which in conscience is the main spring that moves us sons of com­merce, particularly in large cities: But happily for mankind, there are many no­ble exceptions.

SPENT the evening at the French the­atre, which is a small thatched house like a barn; the actors however were good; there were few genteel people at the play, which is very extraordinary in a me­tropolis, especially as this is their only summer's amusement, in this line. The Dutch play house for winter amusements is much more elegant.

TUESDAY.

CROSSED the river Y, or Wye, in a mix­ed company of Germans, Americans, and English; and landed at Sardan, six miles from, and nearly opposite to, Amsterdam.

[Page 122]WE passed through the shipping in the harbour, and then had a complete view of the river, and a forest of masts, ar­ranged with much order.

IN approaching Sardan a battalion of windmills seemed to be drawn up in ar­ray in our front. This extraordinary town appeared to us rather small, previ­ously to our landing; but words are too feeble to express my surprise at the de­ception, as well as the singularity and disposition of the houses, gardens, and almost every object in a style different from any I have yet seen.

SARDAN is situated in Northholland and contains near forty thousand wealthy inhabitants; some say it is the richest town in Holland. They have acquired this wealth principally by the wood trade, ship building, and a variety of cu­rious mills for different purposes, partic­ularly [Page 123] paper, powder, tobacco, boards, &c. &c. They shewed us a sawmill which works forty saws at a time.

THEY have so much timber always prepared on hand that they can do as much work as the building of a man of war in a week, by having three months previous notice. In general they build three hundred sail of merchantmen yearly.

AFTER rambling through this charm­ing and very curious place for some hours, we were conducted to a small house, in which Peter the great boarded with the common workmen, at the time he learn­ed the ship carpenter's trade incog. and was the most faithful and laborious man in the yard. He afterwards worked at Chatham docks in England.

THE woman of the house shewed us a gold medal lately presented her by the [Page 124] empress of Russia. This singular whim of Peter (who was one of the greatest sovereigns Europe was ever blessed with) prepared him for the great fatigues he afterwards endured in contending with Charles XII, of Sweden, and civilizing his extensive dominions.

THIS place is a perfect Chinese pic­ture; the buildings are rather small, but most whimsically beautiful; and for the most part painted in various colours, and the roofs are of glazed tiles: They have in front handsome parterres; and gardens behind, so finely disposed, as to exceed all belief.

THE town covers over a large space of ground, the canals are very long, with a chain of these enchanting houses stretch­ing in a line by their sides.

THE genius and customs of the North-Hollanders are different from the other [Page 125] provinces, and many are very singular; for instance—they push their excess of neat­ness to such extremes that the masters of houses, are positively obliged by cus­tom to pull off their shoes at their own doors, where a servant stands ready with a pair of slippers. Again, the front doors are never opened but in cases of death and marriage. The women are strangely metamorphosed, and differently dressed from the Southholland lasses: Their heads are bound up with broad gold, or brass ridges, running across their fore­heads, they have light caps, their hair out short before—prodigious large earrings, and broad flat hats, cocked up in the air, made of calico; which have a singular effect: But under all these disadvantages, I saw many beautiful faces, but vile shapes; the girls look so much alike that one would be almost led to think they were all sisters.

WEDNESDAY.

WE took a waggon for Bruck, six miles distant, which in many respects exceeds Sardan, and is allowed by travellers to be the very model and pink of neatness, for all Holland; and without exception, it might be drawn as the most perfect picture of any city or town in the world.

IT is chiefly inhabited by commercial veterans, who have retired from Amster­dam, immersed in wealth. They carry on largely in the banking and insuring line. Neither horses or carriages, are suffered in the streets of this fairy village, which are finely paved with different coloured stones, fancifully worked in various rep­resentations, and strewed lightly over with sand, with as much care as the inside of their houses; which are very curious in­deed, and every thing we saw glittered [Page 127] so strongly with neatness, that our eyes were fairly weakened with gazing.

THE preliminary article previous to a courtship, in Northholland, is very sin­gular, but generally observed. The mis­erable lover stands making under his mistress's window, two or three hours every night, for three months succes­sively: If he holds out the siege firm­ly to the end of this time, he is then admitted to her presence, upon the in­tended ties of matrimony—but never before: She indeed at times, deigns to solace his trembling doubts, with a word of comfort. An intelligent English gentleman, residing in Holland, whom we met in the streets of Sardan, says this custom prevails only in Northholland, and originated from the Spaniards, who resided among them before the revolution. Heav­ens! what a contrast between this and our bundling custom in Newengland?

[Page 128]THEY are remarkably coy of strangers, and always marry among themselves; in consequence, the originality of their customs are preserved free from contam­ination.

LATE in the afternoon returned to Sardan, and embarked immediately for Amsterdam, with upwards of one hun­dred of us, crowded in, male and female, under the hatches: Soon after we left the shore, we were suddenly attacked by a thunder squall and heavy rain, so that our skipper was obliged to shut the hatches, which gave us all the same com­plection, and opened a wide field for mer­riment.

MY situation was so odd—wedged up between two Dutch lasses—in the dark —and standing all like sheep in a pen— as must have excited the mirth of the most phlegmatick Englishman. I felt [Page 129] the full force of my situation, and it put me in a fine flow of spirits. In spite of the danger of dislocating my under jaw, I gagged out, by main force, a few Dutch words I had stolen, but so highly sea­soned with English and French, that I could hardly make myself understood: However, as I always feel myself disposed to contribute to the merriment of the company when travelling, I endeavoured to make up, in gestures and laughing, what I was deficient in Dutch. The Dutch however, as I observed on another occasion, laugh with pain, and never without reason.

THURSDAY.

DINED at my friend Myer's upon the Hier Graght, in company with several Americans—among the rest was the love­ly Miss P—. After dinner we made a party and strolled through the best streets [Page 130] of this wealthy city. We crossed the river Amstel, where we viewed with pleas­ure a vast number of sluices, calculated to communicate the river and the Am­sterdam canals; we viewed the river from a high bridge, which afforded an exten­sive and pleasing prospect of the town, river, trees, sluices and trukschutes.

FINISHED the evening at a place called Vauxhall. We had coffee in a large room, filled with parties under cover of volumes of smoke. At the end of the room we were entertained by a company of French and Italian singers.

ON our return, being curious to see the amusements of a spillhouse, we were con­ducted to the most celebrated one. But, my stars! what a scence!—I have never heard Amsterdam mentioned but these spillhouses were esteemed a principal cu­riosity; they are licensed by the police for [Page 131] the protection and safety of modest wom­en—and are noted for the regulation they are under. I could not however endure the sight five minutes—my feelings were too sensibly attacked—the smoke was so thick, and the company so vulgar, that I was glad to decamp after having satisfied my curiosity. In entering we were oblig­ed to pay for a bottle of vinegar, (called wine) whether we had it or not; and then we crowded through a gang of smoking jack tars, boors, and vulgar citizens, to the other end of the room; where I was much diverted to see a strapping negro fellow dancing a jig with one of the spill­house ladies, and an old man playing upon a violin. The dancing was curi­ous enough—they seemed to dance, or rather to slide, heavily upon their heels, scaling about the room, without the least order or animation. Indeed they seem­ed to me like a couple of artificial ma­chines set in motion.

[Page 132]BUT alas! in casting my eyes about me, I was sickened to the soul with an idea that darted across my brain. There were about forty or fifty of these devoted wretches seated round the room—they looked like so many painted dolls, stuck up for sale: The scene carried with it an idea of entering a butcher's slaughter houses, where the calves and sheep are hung up for the highest bidder. Alas! poor human nature, how art thou fallen below the beasts of the field!—Enough of spillhouses.—Good night.

FRIDAY.

CONTINUED viewing the city, and drop­ped in at the rasphouse, so much talk­ed of. It is in truth an excellent insti­tution, but there is nothing in the build­ing or discipline so very remarkable.— From the moment we entered until we left it, we were followed close, and stun­ned [Page 133] by the cries of charity! charity! From several of the windows they run out their naked arms—but in vain! as their punishments do not appear to be heavily inflicted.

THE method of rasping is nothing more than two men sawing lignum vitae with a rasp saw.

THEY have in Holland, I am told, another curious method of punishing criminals—who are confined at a pump, in a cistern of water up to their chins, which runs in as fast as they can pump it out; so that they are obliged to exert themselves until their strength is exhaust­ed to prevent drowning. I believe this is the method taken to conquer the obsti­nacy of those who refuse to labour.

DINED in company—the evening at the play.

SATURDAY.

DINED at Mynheer Van S—ph—st's (a capital merchant) with a brilliant company, in the French style. Mum was the word two minutes before we at­tacked the soup. In leaving the polite Dutchman's table, we paid our two flor­ins to the servant at the door, as regu­larly as at the table d' hôte in Paris. A most barbarous custom, which was exploded not many years since in Eng­land, where it commonly cost a gentle­man half a guinea to dine with his friend.

☞ ON passent par une petite post du sallon á manger, dans la commodité. C'est pire que la France.

IN the evening I had the pleasure of gallanting la belle Americane to the French play, where the company was very bril­iant—the beauty and majesty of her per­son, [Page 135] while it gratified my pride, drew the eyes of the Dutch ladies; and I thought I could read in them something like envy; they are however very elegant, both in their persons and manners, as they rise above the vulgar.

I HAVE more than once had occasion to remark, that the English authors are too apt to confine their remarks up­on national characters, to the vulgar class of mankind, (as though they associ­ated with no others;) which is extreme­ly illiberal, and has a tendency to impress unfair ideas of a nation. In this respect the French are infinitely more liberal and good natured. When a Frenchman travels in England, he freely allows them all their merit. But how different is it with the English who travel in France? Sterne and Moore are almost the only English authors who have soared above the prejudices of their countrymen.

[Page 136]TO return—my fair countrywoman seemed to be the polar star when she rose between the scenes, as the rays of all eyes were centered upon her. Some Dutch ladies politely introduced them­selves in a pleasing tête à tête; but I was under the agreeable necessity of officiating as interpreter in French, which I found was perfectly familiar to all around us.

FROM the play we closed the evening at another Vauxhall, in imitation of the one in London, on a small scale.

SUNDAY.

SPENT this day mostly at my lodgings in writing and reflecting.

MONDAY.

AT seven o'clock this morning I left Amsterdam, with two Americans, in com­pany [Page 137] with Mr. F—, of the house of de la L—and F—, on our way to Haer­lem, purposely to hear them play on the famous organ already described.

AS my life has been fertile in adven­tures, I had a pleasing one in the line of gallantry in this excursion to add to the number. As soon as I had seated myself in the roof of the trukschute, a very fa­cetious, sprightly Dutch lady came in, and seated herself directly opposite to me, with only a narrow table between.— Thus situated—inattention would have been too cold for a warm constitution— Her countenance expressed so much vi­vacity that we soon found ourselves upon sociable terms—which in its progress af­forded merriment for my brother travel­lers quite to Haerlem—where I conduct­ed her to her lodgings, and parted with regret.—The Dutch ladies seem as [Page 138] much addicted to intrigue and gallantry as the French.

IN one hour I rejoined my companions at the church, and was charmed to hear this astonishing organ perform. The human voice is so admirably imitated, that I almost doubted the testimony of my own eyes and ears.

RETURNED in the afternoon in the body of a trukschute, full of passengers. Another thunder storm attacked us—we were obliged to drop our furled curtains and submit to darkness.—In this situa­tion a singular incident happened, which first alarmed and afterwards diverted us extremely. A Dutch Jew in the boat had a peculiar talent of imitating the crying of a child to the nicest perfection, with an empty pipe, which he did as soon as the curtains were dropped—every one supposing a child in the canal, run their [Page 139] heads out in the rain on all sides—the crying instantly ceased, and we hunted in the canal and in the boat in vain, for a child—This artifice was practised upon us several times before we detected the imposture. The old women, never at a loss for a cause, began to suspect the boat was haunted.

IN the morning I intend for Utrecht, and have it in contemplation to go from thence to Berlin, to see the immortal old Frederick. I must devote this evening to digest the materials I have collected relative to Amsterdam, its trade, &c.

AMSTERDAM, the capital of the seven provinces, lays in lon. 4.30. E. and lat. 52.20. N. two hundred and thirty miles north east from Paris, and two hundred east from London, situated upon the river Wye, which empties into the Zuyder Zee. It contains, according to popular estima­tion, [Page 140] three hundred thousand souls, (I be­lieve two hundred and fifty thousand) and twenty six thousand houses, equal to the number in Paris, and perhaps in general as large, though containing only half the number of inhabitants.

THIS city was hardly known in the thirteenth century, and owes its rise and grandeur to the deluge of inhabitants which poured into it from Antwerp in the civil wars.

IT is built in form of a crescent, and well fortified, with a strong wall and twenty six bastions, each of which have a windmill in their centre: The ditch is environed with a spacious canal, em­bellished with a double row of trees. In the extent of their commerce it is thought they will not yield to London, though it is allowed to have been on the decline for many years; this copious sub­ject [Page 141] I shall enter more largely on in the ap­pendix. Upwards of two thousand ships enter annually in the Wye from every quarter of the globe. The shallowness of the Zuyder Zee is a great obstacle in the way of dispatch; but on the other hand protects them effectually from naval ene­mies. The city is built principally up­on piles, at an enormous expense, which may be easily conceived when thirteen thousand were required for the founda­tion of the stadthouse alone. The streets are generally wide and well paved, many of which have canals in the middle, with trees on each side; some of them are es­teemed the finest in Europe. The squares are very mean, the most consid­erable of which is the one the stadthouse is built on.

THIS is a noble structure, and the principal object in Amsterdam. It is two hundred and eighty two feet long, two [Page 142] hundred and thirty five wide, and one hundred sixteen high, constructed with hewn stone, and is said to have cost two millions sterling. The armory, bank, bells, paintings, and burghers' hall, are the material objects; particularly the hall, which is one hundred and twenty feet long, fifty seven broad, and ninety high, all built with marble, which is really astonishing, when we consider that there is scarcely a native pebble to be seen in the whole country. The floor represents, in marble, the celestial and terrestrial globes, and the constellations in the heavens, most curiously inlaid.

THE houses are built, in general, of brick—some of hewn stone. The streets are not so clean, nor the houses so ele­gant, in general, as those of Rotterdam; but the streets are well paved. All re­ligions are tolerated—but Calvinism is by far the most extensive, and no other [Page 143] churches are allowed bells. The arsenal well merits seeing, as well as the dock yard, which lies contiguous to it, and is five hundred and eight feet long, and well supplied with naval stores.

THE air is strongly impregnated with noxious vapours, and the stench which rises from the canals. The water is bad; the best for common use is that which the clouds empty into their cisterns.

THE hospitals, and other charitable institutions, are very great, as they sup­port upwards of twenty thousand poor in this way—but they do not hold a pro­portion to the vast profusion the citizens of London bestow for these benevolent purposes, much to their honour.

THIS city is governed by a Senate of thirty six persons. Trumpeters are kept upon the steeples and towers in the [Page 144] night, to give the alarm in case of fire. The revenues of Amsterdam, it is said, amount to fifty thousand florins a day. Their trade extends to all quarters, but the most lucrative is to the Eastindies.

TUESDAY.

AT six o'clock this cloudy morning I embarked on board the Utrecht truks­chute, with a Mr. Vanbiber (an Ameri­can gentleman) and a full freight of pas­sengers, and in nine hours sailing we reached Utrecht. We sailed through a beautiful country, more abounding in elegant seats and summer houses, (be­longing to the wealthy citizens of Am­sterdam) than any part of Holland I have yet seen; especially within a few miles of Utrecht, where we saw a con­tinued chain of them, some of which were mere palaces.

[Page 145]DINED at a Mr. Peterson's, a rich mer­chant, and an American by birth. Af­ter dinner he conducted us into every part of this city, which is built upon a natural elevation compared to the mari­time cities. It lies twenty three miles S. E. from Amsterdam, is esteemed healthy, and rendered remarkable in his­tory, for the celebrated treaty which ce­mented the union of the Seven Provinces, in 1579.

IT contains from twenty to thirty thousand inhabitants—party spirit runs high among the citizens, who are arming, and exercising every day in opposition to the prince of Orange; whose party style it rebellion, and a French faction. The citizens are so inveterate against the English, that it is almost dangerous for one to be seen in the streets. Military distraction beats high in every vein; but nature and humanity shrink from the [Page 146] tragick thought, that these enchanting fields may be verging fast to the fatal change into parks of bellowing murder, encampments, and scenes of death, where family kindred may be darting the weap­ons of destruction at each other.

VIEWED the old cathedral, the middle of which is blown down, but the tower is entire. Saw the monument of an old bishop, with fourteen others in basso re­lievo, the heads of which were all batter­ed to pieces, at the time of the violent re­ligious persecution, which occasioned the revolt in the bloody reign of Philip II.

WE ascended the top of the tower, which is three hundred and seventy feet high, by four hundred and sixty steps; where we had a most sublime view of all the low country, the Downs, Haerlem lake, and Zuyder Zee; our horizon was rather hazy, which obstructed a much [Page 147] more extensive prospect. I am told that in a clear day, fifty walled cities may be comprehended in one view from this place.

THE country in the vicinity of Utrecht appeared like a continued garden. A chain of small hills and the Downs in some measure checked our view to the eastward. The wind blew a gale, and I was almost apprehensive that this crazy old tower, which has resisted sieges and tempests for near a thousand years, would at last tumble down and bury poor me in its ruins: The roaring of the winds through the hollow arches, and the ruins of the old church under us, naturally excited these vapours; so I hurried down to examine the university; after which I went to a famous garden, belonging to Madame Van Mollem, and adjoining to a silk machine, which is constructed nearly upon the same principles as the one I [Page 148] saw at Derby in England, in 1782.— One water wheel (a curiosity in Holland) set the whole machine in motion.

THIS garden is upon a very large scale, and contains every object which can render a garden delightful and curious— such as cascades differently displayed, grottos, statues, vases, and a variety of imitations in evergreens, viz. baskets, &c. &c. in a very ingenious manner.

THE two grottos, the gardener tells us, cost ten thousand pounds sterling each, being mostly formed by a rare collection of shells from the different quarters of the globe. In this charming garden we spent a full hour, and could easily have found entertainment for a day^*.

THE antipathy between the English and the citizens of Utrecht, has subsisted [Page 149] on the part of the English since the bar­rier treaty made with Louis XIV, so ob­noxious to them. On the part of the citizens, on account of the collusive con­duct of the stadtholder in the late war with the English.

WE next viewed the mall, which is said to be the largest in Europe—It is three quarters of a mile in length, and formed by four double rows of stately trees.— When Louis XIV subdued, or rather took quiet possession of Utrecht, in 1672, he gave orders to protect this delightful promenade.

UTRECHT has no particular curiosi­ties or elegant publick buildings; but the city is supposed to be larger than the Hague, though thinly peopled. Many of the houses are very elegant, and the pavements exceedingly neat and white.

[Page 150]PREVIOUSLY to my leaving Amsterdam I had determined to continue my route with Mr. Vanbiber, through Westphalia and Saxony, to Berlin; but receiving a letter soon after my arrival here, from London, via Amsterdam, I am induced to set off immediately for Helvoetsluys, as the packet will sail from thence in the morning.—Adieu!