THE COUNTIES OF ENGLAND AND WALES.
DANMONII.
THAT Tract, which according to Geographers is as it were the first of all Britain, reaching out a long way towards the West, is contracted by little and little, and bounded on the North by the Severn-Sea, on the South by the British Ocean, and on the West by S. George's Channel. It was formerly inhabited by those Britains called in Solinus Dunmonii, in Ptolemy Damnonii, or as they are more correctly term'd in other Copies Danmonii. Which* name, if it be not deriv'd from the inexhaustible mines of tinn found in those parts, and call'd by the Britains Moina; does probably come from dwelling under mountains. For through the whole County they live low and in valleys, a way of dwelling which the Britains call Danmunith; in which sense, the very next Shire is term'd by them Duffneint, i.e. low valleys, at this day. But whether the Ostidamnii, Ostidamnii. called also Ostaei and Ostiones, and mention'd by Strabo out of Pithaeas of Marseills, be the same with our Danmonii, I would desire the Antiquaries to consider a little more narrowly. For (as they tell us) they were seated in the remotest parts of Europe, upon the Western Ocean, over against Spain, not far from the Island Ushant, or Uxantissa. All which circumstances do exactly agree to this country of the Danmonii. And further, since by Artemidorus those Ostiones are called Cossini (as Stephanus in his Book De Urbibus has hinted,) I would entreat them to consider, whether instead of Cossini Cossini. we ought not to read Corini; for this Country is also call'd Corini. After the same manner† Fusii is read for Furii, and Valesii or Valerii. If the Geographers exclude the Ostidamnii and Cossini from this place, it will be extreme hard to find any other upon the Western Ocean, to settle them in. Their bounds however are divided at this day into two parts, Cornwal and Devonshire; of which in their turns‖.
CORNWALL.
CORNWALL, call'd also by modern Writers in Latin Cornubia, reaches out to the West the farthest of all Britain, and is inhabited by those remains of the Britains, which Marianus Scotus calls Western Britains. By them in the British tongue (for they have not yet quite lost their ancient language) it is call'd Kernaw, as lessening by degrees like a horn, and on every side running out into Promontories, like so many horns. For the Britains call a horn Corn, and horns in the plural number Kern: tho' others will have the name Cornwall, deriv'd from I know not what Corineus a Companion of Brute's, and have it call'd Corinia, according to that of the fabulous Poet:
But if you look diligently into Antiquities, 'tis no new thing for places to borrow their names from such a situation. In Crete and the * Precopensian Chersonese, promontories are call'd [...], Ram's horns, because like Ram's horns they shoot forth into the sea. So Cyprus was formerly call'd by the Greeks Cerastis, because it hangs into the sea with large promontories, representing Horns [a]. so that 'tis no wonder that this tract should be call'd Kernaw and Corn, since it is like a horn, crooked, and (if I may so say) horn'd with promontories. Upon which, in the times of the Saxon wars, when a great many of the Britains retreated into this country, sheltering themselves in the nature of the place, (for as for the land-roads, they knew they were by reason of mountains and the breaches made by Aestuaries, in a manner unpassable; and those by sea were extreme dangerous to persons altogether ignorant of them;) then the Saxon conquerour, who call'd foreigners and every thing that was strange,a WealsH, nam'd the inhabitants of this part Corn-peales and West-peales [b]. From hence arose the name Cornwallia, and in later writers Cornubia, as also that of some writers Occidua Wallia, i.e. West-Wales. So far is Cornwall from borrowing it's name from the conquering Gauls, as is urg'd by some out of a complement to that Nation. But if they were as knowing at home as they are medling abroad,Cornovaille in Armorican Bretagne. they would quickly apprehend that their Bretagne upon the sea-coast1, is so call'd from ours; and that a little Tract therein call'd Cornovaille, where the Cornish language is spoken, was so term'd from those of our nation transplanted thither. For as those Western Britains of ours were assisting to the Armoricans in France, in their wars against Caesar, (which was indeed his pretence for the invasion of Britain,) and afterwards marching over thither and changing the name, call'd it Bretagne: so in former Ages they sent aids to their country-men the Britains against the Franks, and in those cruel Danish wars, many of them went over thither, where they left that more modern name of Cornovaille.
This County (as if nature had design'd to arm it against the incursions of the sea) is for the most part mountainous: in the bottoms 'tis of it self pretty fruitful; but they make it incredibly rich with a sort of sea-weed called Orewood, Orewood. and a fat kind of sea-sand. The sea-coast is beautify'd with very many Towns, which are able to man out a considerable fleet. The inner parts abound with rich mines. For tinn,Tinn. to the vast advantage of the inhabitants, is digg'd up in great plenty, of which household vessels are made, not inferior to silver in brightness, and are carry'd for table-use to all parts of Europe.2 They make their tinn of little black stones, which they either dig, or gather off the sands cast up. Now there are two sorts of these Stannaries or Metal-works:The Stannaries one they call Lode-works, the other Stream-works. The latter is in the lower places, when they trace the veins of tinn by ditches, by which they carry off the water that would break in upon them; the former is in places that are higher, when they sink the holes (called Shafts) to a vast depth in the mountains, and work by undermining. In both kinds they shew a wonderful art and ingenuity, as well in draining the waters and reducing them to one chanel; as in supporting and propping up their pits; not to mention their arts of breaking3, washing, melting, and refining their metals, than which nothing can be more ingenious4.
That the ancient Britains wrought those tinn-mines, is plain from Diodorus Siculus who liv'd under Augustus; to omit Timaeus the Historian in Pliny,Lib. 6. cap. 8. & 9. who tells [Page] us, that the Britains fetch'd tinn out of the Isleb Icta in their little wicker-boats cover'd with leather. For Diodorus affirms, that the Britains who liv'd in those parts, digging tinn out of a rocky sort of ground, carry'd it in carts at low-tide to some of the neighbouring Islands; that thence the merchants transported it into Gaule, and then on horse back in thirty days to the springs of Eridanus, or the city Narbona, as to a common Mart. Aethicus too, whoever he was, that unworthily goes under the name of being translated by St. Jerom 5, intimates the same thing, and adds that he gave directions to those workmen. The Saxons seem not to have medled with them, or at most to have only employ'd the Saracens: for the inhabitants to this day call a mine that is given over, Attal-Sarisin, that is, the leavings of the Saracens6.
After the coming in of the Normans, the Earls of Cornwall had vast revenues from those mines, especially Richard brother to Henry 3.c. And no wonder, when Europe was not supplied with tinn from any other place. For as for those mines in Spain, the incursions of the Moores had shut them up; and the veins in Germany, (which too are only in Misnia and Bohemia) were not then discover'd, nor open'd before the year of Christ 1240. At which time, as a writer of that age has it, the mettal called tinn was found in Germany by a certain Cornish man banish'd his country, to the great damage of Richard Earl of Cornwall. 7 Afterwards a Charter was granted them by Edmund, Earl Richard's Brother, with several immunities; by whom also the Stannary-Laws were fram'd, and confirm'd with his own Seal, laying a certain impost upon the tinn, payable to the Earls of Cornwall.
The Polity of the Tinners.These Liberties, Privileges, andd Laws, were afterwards confirm'd and enlarg'd by Edward 3. who divided the whole society of Tinners (that were, as it were, one body) into four parts, or quarters, call'd from the places, Foy-more, Black-more, Trewarnaile, and Penwith. He constituted one general Warden or Overseer over all the rest8, who is to do justice both in causes of Law and Equity, and to set over every company each their Sub-warden, who should9 every month, within their respective jurisdiction, determine controversies10; and such Sentences, from the Stannum or tinn, are call'd Stannary-Judgments: but from these an Appeal is sometimes made to the Lord Warden himself11. And lest the tribute should not be duly paid, to the prejudice of the Dukes of Cornwall, (who according to ancient custom, for every thousand pound of tinn are to have 40 shillings,) it is provided, that whatever tinn is made, shall be carried to one of the four towns appointed for that purpose; where twice every year it shall be weigh'd, stamp'd12, and the impost paid: and before that, no man may sell it or convey it away,13 without being liable to a severe fine. Nor is Tinn the only Mineral found here; but there is likewise gold,Cornish Diamonds. silver, and diamonds naturally cut into angles and polish'd; some whereof are altogether as big as a walnut, and only inferior to those in the East, in blackness and hardness [c]. Sea-holme Sea-holme. is found in great plenty upon the coasts; and all manner of grain, tho' not without great industry in the husbandman, is produced in such plenty, that it does not only supply their own necessary uses, but Spain also yearly with vast quantities of corn. They make likewise a gainful trade of those little fishes they call Pylchards, Pylchards. which are seen upon the sea-coast, as it were in great swarms, from July to November: these they catch, garbage, salt, smoak, barrel, press, and so send them in great numbers to France, Spain, and Italy, where they are a welcome commodity,Fumados, perhaps Pliny's Gerres. and are named Fumados. Upon which, Michael a Cornish-man, by much the most eminent Poët of his age, writing against Henry of Auranches, Poet-Laureat to King Henry 3. (who had play'd upon the Cornish-men, as the fagg-end of the world,) in defence of his country has these verses, which I shall here set down for your diversion:
Nor is Cornwall more happy in the soil, than it's inhabitants; who as they are extremely well bred, and ever have been so, even in those more ancient times, (for, as Diodorus Siculus observes, by conversation with merchants trading thither for tinn, they became more courteous to strangers;) so are they lusty, stout, and tall: their limbs are well set; [...] and at wrastling (not to mention that manly exercise of hurling the Ball) they are so eminent, that they go beyond other parts, both in art, and a firmness of body requir'd to it. And the foremention'd Poete Michael, after a long harangue made upon his country-men, telling us in his jingling verse, how Arthur always set them in the front of the battel, at last boldly concludes,
And this perhaps may have given occasion to that tradition, of Giants formerly inhabiting those parts. For Hauvillan, a Poët who liv'd four hundred years ago, describing certain British Giants, has these verses concerning Britain,
But whether this firmness of constitution (which consists of a due temperature of heat and moisture) be caused in the Danmonii by those fruitful breezes of the Westwind, and their westerly situation, [...] (as we see in Germany the Batavi, in France the Aquitani and Rutheni, which lye farthest toward the West, are most lusty;) or rather to some peculiar happiness in the air and soil; is not my business nicely to consider.
Now let us describe the Promontories, cities, and rivers mention'd by the Ancients, (for that is our main [Page] design;) and beginning at the utmost promontory, first take a view of the Southern, then of the Northern coasts, and lastly of the river Tamar, [d] which divides this County from Devonshire.
The utmost Promontory, which lies out into the Irish Ocean, and upon the Globe is 17 degrees distant from the Fortunate Islands, or rather from the Azores, is called by Ptolemy Bolerium, [...] by Diodorus Belerium, possibly from the British Pell, signifying a thing most remote. Ptolemy calls it also [...], or Antivestaeum, and the Britains Penrhinguaed, i.e. the Promontory of blood; but these are only the Bards or Poets; for the British Historians call it Penwith, i.e. a Promontory to the left; as the Saxons Penƿiþ-steort, Steort with them signifying ground stretch'd out into the sea. [...]at [...]s. From hence the whole Hundred is call'd Penwith, and by the inhabitants in their language, Pen von las, i.e. the end of the earth; in which sense the English term it the Lands end, as being the farthest part of the Island westward [e]. Now if this Promontory was ever call'd Helenum, as Volateranus, and the more modern writers have it; it was not so nam'd from Helenus son of Priam, but from Pen Elin, which in British (as Ancon among the Greeks) signifies an elbow. For since the Greeks call'd crooked shores Ancones (which Pliny affirms of the Ancona in Italy) it cannot be any absurdity to imagine that this winding shore should be called in the same sense by the Britains Pen-Elin, and that thence came the Latin Helenum. As to the name Antivestaeum, I have very often suspected that it was of a Greek original. For observing it very common with the Greeks to call places from the names of those that were opposite to them, (and that not only in Greece, where they have Rhium and Antirrhium; but also in the Arabian gulf, where is Bacchium and Antibacchium, and in the gulf of Venice, Antibarrium, as directly facing the Barrium in Italy;) observing these, I set my self to search with great diligence, whether there was any place opposite to our Antivestaeum, that went under the name of Vestaeum. But finding nothing of it, I betook my self to the British Tongue; and yet there can meet with no satisfaction. Only, the inhabitants are of opinion, that this Promontory did once reach farther to the West; which the Mariners are positive in, from the rubbish they draw up. The neighbours will tell you too, from a certain old tradition, that the land there drown'd by the incursions of the sea, was call'd Lionesse [f].
In the utmost rocks of this Promontory, when they are bare at low water, there appear veins of white lead and brass: and the inhabitants say, there was formerly set a watch-tower, with lights for direction of mariners. It was without doubt design'd for a guide to Spain; for Orosius has told us, that the high watch-tower of Brigantia in Gallicia, of a most admirable structure, was built ad speculam Britanniae, that is (if I apprehend it aright) either for the use of such as traded from Britain to Spain, or else over against the watch-tower of Britain: for there is no other place in this Island that looks towards Spain. There now stands a little Village call'd Saint Buriens, formerly Eglis Buriens, i.e. the Church of Buriana or Beriana, dedicated to Buriana a certain Religious Irish Woman. For this Country did all along pay so much veneration to the Irish Saints as well as their own, that between both there is hardly a Town but what is consecrated to some one of them. There is a report that King Athelstan gave it the privilege of a Sanctuary after he had arriv'd here from his Conquest of the Scilly Islands. However, 'tis certain he built a Church here, and that in William the Conqueror's time here was a College of Prebendaries, to whom the neighbouring grounds belong'd [g]. Not far from hence, in a place call'd Biscaw-woune, are nineteen stones set in a circle, about 12 foot distant one from another; and in the center, there stands one much larger than any of the rest. One may probably conjecture this to have been some trophy of the Romans under the later Emperors; or of Athelstane the Saxon, after he had subdued Cornwall [h].
From hence towards the South, the shore wheeling in, makes a bay in form of a new-moon, call'd Mountsbay; Mountsbay. where they say that the Ocean breaking violently in, drown'd all that land. Upon this lies Mousehole, in the British Port-Inis, that is,f the port of the Island, for which the privilege of a market was procur'd of Edward 1. by Henry de Tieis, Barons of Ti [...]is. who had the Dignity of a Baron, and was Lord of Alwerton and Tiwernel in this County. And Pensans, i.e. the head of the sand, a little market-town [i]; not far from whence is thatg noted stone Main-Amber, Main-Amber, i.e. the stone of Ambrosius. 14 which tho' it be of a vast bigness, you may yet move with one finger; notwithstanding which, a great number of men would not be able to remove it. Next, upon this bay stands Merkiu, i.e. the market of Jupiter, because a market is there kept on Thursday [Jupiter's day;] but this is an ill harbour. In the very corner is S. Michael's Mount, S. Michael's Mount. which gives name to the whole bay, call'd formerly Dinsol, as 'tis in the book of Landaff; by the inhabitants Careg-cowse, i.e. a hoary rock, and in Saxon Mychel-stoƿ, i.e. Michaels-place,Mychel-stow. as Laurence Noel Laurence Noel. has observ'd, a person eminent for good learning; who in this age first restor'd the Saxon language spoken by our Ancestors, before quite laid aside and forgotten. Here is a rock indifferent high, and craggy, which, when the tide is in, is encompass'd with water; but when out, joyn'd to the main land15. Upon which, John Earl of Oxford, not many years ago, trusting to the natural strength of the place, fortify'd himself here against K. Edward 4. and bravely defended it, tho' with little success. For his Men yielded themselves upon the first assault made by the King's party. Upon the very top of the rock, within the Fort, was a Chappel dedicated to S. Michael the Archangel; and William Earl of Cornwall and Moriton, who by the favour of William the Conquerour had large possessions in these parts, built a Cell there for a Monk or two, who pretended S. Michael had appear'd in that Mount. But this Vision the Italians too are very earnest to have upon their Garganus, and the French upon their Michael's Mount in Normandy. At the bottom of this mountain, within the memory of our Fathers, as they were digging for tinn, they met with spear-heads, axes,Brass Weapons. and swords, all wrap'd up in Linnen; of the same sort with those found long ago in Hircinia in Germany, and others lately in Wales. For it is plain from the Monuments of Antiquity, that the Greeks, Cimbrians, and Britains, made use of brass-weapons, notwithstanding that wounds by them are less hurtful, upon account of a medicinal virtue in them, which Macrobius takes notice of from Aristotle. Those ages were not so well vers'd in killing arts as ours is. In the rocks underneath, and all along this coast, breeds thePyrrhocorax. Cornish cough. Pyrrhocorax, a Crow with red bill, and red feet; not peculiar to the Alps, as Pliny imagin'd. This Bird is found by the Inhabitants to be an Incendiary, and very thieving. For it often sets houses on fire privately, steals pieces of money, and then hides them.
In this place the country is most narrow, contracted into a sort of Isthmus, there being scarce four miles distance between this and the upper or Severn-sea. A little beyond the mountain, is a bay, pretty large, call'd Mountsbay, Mountsbay. from the mountain; 'tis a very safe harbour for ships from the South and South-east winds, and at low water is six or seven fathom deep. More to the East, stands Godolcan h,Godolphin-hill. a hill famous for store of tinn-mines, (they now call it Godolphin,) but much more noted for its Lords of that name,Family of the Godolphins. whose virtues are no less eminent, than their family is ancient. The name in Cornish comes from a White Eagle; and this Family has still bore for their Arms, in a shield gules, an eagle display'd between three flower-de-luces argent.
From S. Michael's mount to the south, there jutts out a Chersonese, at the entrance whereof we meet with Heilston, Heilston. in the language of the natives Hellas, from the salt-water thereabouts; a town famous for the privilege of stamping tinn. And a little lower by the conflux of of great many waters, is made a lake of two miles in [Page] length, call'd Loopole, Loopole. separated from the sea by a little ridge running along; and when the violence of the waves breaks through that, it makes a wonderful roaring all over the neighbourhood. At a little distance from thence, there is a military Camp (they call it Earth [k]) built in a large circumference of great stones heap'd one upon another without mortar; such as are to be met with here and there in other places; made, as I suppose, in the Danish wars. Nor is it unlike those fortifications of the Britains, which Tacitus calls a rude and confus'd structure of great stones. The Peninsula it self, pretty large, and well stock'd with little villages,Menna. Meneg. is call'd Meneg [k], without all doubt the same with Menna, which Jornandes in his Geticks describes from Cornelius (I know not whether the same with Tacitus) a writer of Annals; and which some Copies read Memma. It is (says he) in the furthest part of Britain, abounding with several sorts of metal, affording good pasture; and [in general] contributing more to the nourishment of cattel than men. But as for what he says of it's abounding with several sorts of metal, it is now so far from it, that it seems long since to have been quite drain'd. It is by mariners call'd the Lizard, by Ptolemy the Promontory of the Danmonii, and Ocrinum;Ocrinum. The Lizard. by Aethicus in that monstrous Geography of his, Ocranum; and 'tis reckon'd among the mountains of the Western Ocean. I dare not be positive that it took it's name from Ocra, which (as Sextus Pompeius has it) signifies a craggy mountain; tho' 'tis certain that Ocrea among the Alps, as also Ocriculum and Interocrea, were so called from their steep rough situation. But since Ochr in Brittish signifies an edge, what if I should imagine that this Promontory had it's denomination from being edg'd and pointed like a cone?
The shore shooting in again from this Meneg, makes a bay full of winding creeks, receiving the little river Vale, upon which, something inward, flourish'd an old town call'd Voluba, Voluba. mention'd by Ptolemy. But it has long since either lost it's being or name; which yet does still in some measure remain in Volemouth or Falemouth. Falemouth. This haven is altogether as noble as the very Brundusium of Italy, and very capacious: for an hundred ships may ride in it's winding bays at such a distance, that from no one of them shall be seen the top of another's main-mast. 'Tis also safe from winds, being guarded on all sides with high creeks. At the very entrance, here is a high uneven rock, call'd by the inhabitants Crage; and each side of it is fortify'd with it's castle, built by K. Henry 8. for the safety of the place, and terror of the enemy; that on the east is S. Maudit's, and that on the west, Pendinas; Pendinas. of which an Antiquarian Poët:
But the haven it self is call'd by Ptolemy Cenionis ostium, Cenionis ostium. without all dispute from the British Geneu, signifying a mouth, and an entrance: which Tregenie, a town hard by, confirms, as much as if one should say, a little town at the mouth [l]. There are some towns lie upon the inner parts of this Haven. Peryn, Peryn. a famous market, where Walter Bronescombe Bishop of Exeter, An. 1288. built a Collegiate Church (call'd Glasnith Glasnith.)i with twelve Prebendaries. Arwenack, Arwenak. the seat of the ancient and famous family of the Killegrews. Truro, Truro. in Cornish Truru, so call'd from three streets, in a manner encompass'd with two little rivers: 'tis famous for being a Mayor-town, and for the privileges it has in the business of the Stannaries. [...] Grampound, the most remote from the haven16; under which is Roseland, a plat of ground lying along the sea-side; so call'd, as some would have it, from rosetum, a garden of roses; or, as others imagine, because it is ericetum, a heath [m]: for Ros implies that in Brittish. From whence Rosse in Scotland,R [...] and another Rosse in Wales have had their names, as being dry, thirsty ground: but this by the industry of the husbandmen is made more rich and fruitful. From Roseland the sea immediately follows the dintings of the Land, and makes a large bay, call'd Trueardraithbay, as much as if one should say, The bay of a town at the sand 17.
Scarce two miles from hence, [...] where the river Fawey runs into the Sea, is Fowy-town, in British Foath, stretch'd along the creek: it was very famous in the last age for Sea-fights, as is plain from the Arms of the place, which are a Compound of all those of the Cinque-ports. On each side of the haven is a fort, built by Edward 4. who a little after, upon a displeasure conceiv'd against the men of Fowy, for preying upon the French-coasts after a peace was made with that kingdom; took from them all their ships and tackle. Over against this, on the other side, stands Hall, [...] noted for it's pleasant walks upon the side of an hill, andk the seat of Sir William Mohun, Knight, [...] of an ancient and noble family, descended from the Mohuns Earls of Somerset, and the Courtneies, Earls of Devonshire.
More within the land, upon the same river, [...] the Uzella of Ptolemy is seated; and has not yet quite lost it's name, being called at this day Lestuthiell, from it's situation. For it was upon a high hill, where is Lestormin an ancient castle; tho' now 'tis remov'd into the valley. Now uchel in British signifies the same as high and lofty; [...] from whence Uxellodunum of Gaule is so term'd, because the town being built upon a mountain has a steep rugged ascent every way. This in the British historie is called Pen-Uchel coit, a high mountain in a wood; by which some will have Exeter meant. But the situation assign'd it by Ptolemy, and the name it has to this day, do sufficiently evince it to have been the ancient Uzella. Now it is a little town and not at all populous; for the channel of the river Fawey, which in the last age us'd to carry the tide up to the very town, and bring vessels of burthen; [...] is now so stopt up by the sands coming from the Lead-mines, that it is too shallow for barges: and indeed all the havens in this County are in danger of being choak'd up by these sands. However 'tis the County-town; where the Sheriff every month holds the County-court, and the Warden of the Stannaries has his prison. For it has the privilege of Coynage, by the favour (as they say) of Edmund Earl of Cornwall, who formerly had his palace there. But there are two towns which especially eclipse the glory of this Vzella; Leskerd to the east,L [...] seated upon a high hill and famous for an ancient castle and a market: And Bodman to the north, [...] scarce two miles distant,l in British (if I mistake not) Bosuenna, and in ancient Charters Bodminiam. This town is seated between two hills, not very healthfully, extended from east to west. 'Tis a noted market, populous, and well built; and enjoys the privilege of stamping tinn. But it was formerly more famous for a Bishop's See. For about the year 905. when the discipline of the Church was quite neglected in those parts, [...] Edward the Elder by a Decree from Pope Formosus, settl'd a Bishop's See here, and granted the Bishop of Kirton three villages in those parts,m Polton, Caeling, and Lanwitham, that he might every year visit the County of Cornwall, [Page] in order to reform their errors; for before that, they resisted the Truth to the utmost of their power, and would not submit to the Apostolical Decrees. But afterwards, those dismal wars of the Danes breaking out, the Bishop's See was translated to S. Germans. Near to Leskerd is a Church formerly called S. Guerir, which being translated from the British, is a Physician; where (as Asser tells us) King Alfred, while he was at his devotion, recovered of a fit of sickness. But when Neotus, a man of eminent Sanctity and Learning, was buried in that Church, he so much eclips'd the glory of the other Saint, that from him the place begun to be call'd Neotestow, i.e. the place of Neoth, and now it is S. Neoth's; and the Religious there were called Clerks of St. Neot, who had pretty large revenues, as we may learn from Domesday [n]. Not far from hence (as I have been told) in the Parish of St. Clare, there are in a place call'd Pennant, i.e. the head of the valley, two stone monuments; one whereof has the upper part hollow'd in form of a chair, the other, term'd Other half stone, is inscrib'd with barbarous characters now almost worn out.
Which I think is to be read thus, Doniert: Rogavit pro anima: unless we may imagine that these two points (:) after Doniert, are the remains of the letter E. and so read Doniert erogavit, implying, that he gave that land to the Religious for the good of his soul. Now I cannot but think that Doniert was that petty King of Cornwall, which the Annals call Dungerth, and tell us he was drown'd in the year 872.
Hard by is a heap of pretty large rocks, under which is a great stone, form'd so like a cheese, that it seems to be press'd by the others; from whence the whole has the name of Wring-cheese [o]. A great many stones likewise, in a manner square, are to be seen upon the adjoyning plain; whereof seven or eight are at an equal distance from one another. The Neighbours call them Hurlers, out of a pious belief that they are men transform'd into stones, for playing at ball on Sunday. Others will have them to be a trophie in memory of a battle; and some think they have been set for boundaries; because in such Authors as have writ about Bounds, they have read, that large stones us'd to be gather'd by both parties, and erected for limits [p].
The river Loo opens it self a passage into the sea upon this coast, and at it's mouth communicates the name two little towns, joyned together by a stone-bridge. That upon then west side, as newer, flourishes most; but time has very much decay'd thato upon the east, tho' it still retains the privilege of a Mayor, and Burgesses18. From hence we meet with nothing memorable19, till we come at Liver, a little river abounding with oysters, which runs by S. Germans S. Germans. a small village, whither the Bishop's See was translated, through fear, in the time of the Danish war. There is a little Religious house dedicated to St. German of Antisiodorum, who suppressed the Pelagian heresie then growing again in Britain. After the succession of some few Bishops, Levinus Bishop of Kirton, a great favourite of Canutus the Dane, obtain'd a Royal Grant to have it annext to his own seat. From which time, there has been but one Bishop for both this County and Devonshire, who now has his See at Exeter; and appointed this little village of S. Germans for a seat to his Suffragan. There is nothing now left at it,p besides fishermen's hutts, who get themselves a pretty maintenance by fishing in the sea and the neighbouring rivers. At a few miles distance, upon the same river, Trematon Trematon. supports the name of a Castle by it's ruinous walls; where (as it is in Domesday) William Earl of Moriton had his castle and market; and it was the head of a Barony of the Earls and Dukes of Cornwall, as we learn from the Inquisitions. When the Liver has pass'd by this, it empties it self into Tamara, the limit of this County, (near Saltashe, formerly Esse, once the seat of theOf the crooked Vall [...]y. Edgecombe Valtorts, now pretty well stor'd with merchants, and endow'd with a great many privileges:) where20 Mont-Edgecombe the Seat of the ancient family of the Edgcombs, is pleasantly situated, and has a prospect of the winding haven under it. Next to this, is Anthony, Anthony. memorable for it's neatness, and a fish-pond which lets in the sea, from whence it is furnish'd with fish both for use and pleasure; but much more for the lord of it, Richard Carew, who not only lives up to the greatness of his ancestors, but excels them in the ornaments of virtue. Thus far we have been upon the south-coast; now let us survey the north.
The northern shore, from the Lands-end running forward on a long tract of sandy banks washt up, comes to a town hanging into the sea like a sort of little tongue, called S. Iies; S. Iies. from Iia an Irish woman of great piety, who liv'd here. It was formerly call'd Pendinas; and the haven below, which receives the river Haile, is denominated from it, being call'd by the Sea-men S. Iies bay. The town it self is now but small. For theq North-west-wind, the tyrant of this coast, by heaping in sands upon it, has been so very prejudicial, that they have removed it more than once. From hence the country growing broader on both sides, the northern shore with an oblique winding goes north-east to Padstow, meeting with nothing in its way remarkable, besides a chapel built upon the sand, dedicated to S. Piranus, another Irish Saint bury'd here; to whose sanctity a silly childish writer has attributed the finding provision for ten Irish Kings and their armies, for eight days together, with no more than three Cows; as also bringing to life dead hogs, and dead men. Farther from the shore is S. Columbs, S. Columbs. a little market town, consecrated to the memory of Columba an exceeding pious woman and a martyr, and not of Columbanus the Scotchman, (r as I am now fully satisfied by her life.)ſ Near which, at a little less distance from the sea, stands Lhanheron, Lhanheron. the seat of the family of the Arondels Knights, who upon account of their vast riches, were not long since call'd The great Arondels. They are sometimes call'd in Latin De Hirundine, Family of the Arondels. and appositely enough in my mind; for a Swallow in French is Arondel, and their Arms are in a field sable six Swallows argent. 'Tis certainly an ancient and noble family, as also very numerous; to the name and Arms whereof William Brito a Poet alludes, when he describes a warlike man of this family assaulting a French man, about the year 1170.
At a little distance, is a double rampire on the top of a hill, and a causey leading to it: 'tis call'd Castellan Danis, Castle-Danis. i.e. the camps of the Danes, because the Danes when they prey'd upon the English-coasts, encamp d here, as also in other places hereabouts.
Not far from hence is the river Alan, call'd also Camb-alan, and Camel, from it's winding chanel, (for Cam with them implies as much.) Running gently into the Upper-sea, it has at the mouth a little market-town call'dt Padstow, Padstow. contracted from Petrockstow (as 'tis call'd in the Histories of the Saints,) from oneu Petrocus a Britain that was Sainted, after he had liv'd here in a Religious manner; whereas the town was before call'dw Loderick and Laffenac. It is very conveniently seated for trading into Ireland, being but 24 hours easie sail; and is very much adorn'd by a beautiful house in the neighbourhood, like a castle, which N. Prideaux, a Gentleman of an ancient name and family, lately built in those Western parts [p]. At the head of this river Alan, is seated Camelford, otherwise writ Gaffelford, Gaffe [...]ford. a little village, formerly call'd Kamblan in the opinion of Leland, who tells us that Arthur, the English Hector, was slain here. For (as he adds) pieces of armour, rings, and brass-furniture for horses, are sometimes digg'd up here by the Countrymen; and after so many ages, the tradition of a bloody victory in this place, is still preserv'd. There are also extant some verses of a middle-age-poet about Camel's running with blood, after that battle of Arthur against Mordred: which, because they seem to flow from a good vein, I will venture to insert:
In the mean time, not to deny the truth of this story concerning Arthur, I have read in Marianus of a bloody battle here between the Britains and Saxons, in the year 820. so that the place may seem to be sacred to Mars. And if it be true that Arthur was kill'd here, the same shore both gave him his first breath and depriv'd him of his last. For upon the neighbouring shore stands Tindagium (the birth-place of that great Arthur) part of it as it were on a little tongue thrust out, and part upon an Island formerly joyn d to the main-land by a bridge. They now call it Tindagel, Tindagel, Arthur's birth-place. tho' nothing is left but the splendid ruines of an ancient* stately castle; of which a modern Poët:
It would be tedious to relate here from the History of Geoffrey, how Uther Pendragon, King of Wales, fell in love with the wife of Gorlois Prince of Cornwall in this castle; and how by art-magick assuming the shape of her husband, he defil'd the Lady, and begat this Arthur. The verses of our countryman John Hauvillan shall supersede that:
This Uther Pendragon was a Prince, in whom were all the accomplishments of a Souldjer, and who valiantly supported the sinking state of his country against the Saxons.A [...] the [...] I dare not affirm that the Royal banner of the English (having the effigies of a dragon with a golden head, so well known to our neighbours, and so terrible to the Pagans in the Holy wars under Richard the 3d,G [...] T [...]) was deriv'd from him. I rather think we owe it to the Romans, who for a long time us'd the Eagle, after Marius had rejected the [common] Standards of a wolf, a minotaure, a horse, &c. and came at last under the latter Emperors to make choice of a Dragon. Upon which, Claudian,
And Nemesianus,
That the West-Saxon kings carry'd a Dragon in their Standards, we have the authority of Hoveden. But as for that other banner of the Saxons, which Bede calls Tufa, and that Reafan of the Danes,T [...] [...] I will say nothing of them in this place, left I should seem to make too large a digression21.
Upon the same coast (which is not very fruitful, and wants wood) there stands expos'd to the sea Botereaux-castle, corrupted by the vulgar into Bos-castell, B [...] built by the Lords of it the Botereauxs, who bore in a shield argent three toads sable. William Botereaux was the first of any great note in this family, who marry'd Alice daughter of Robert Corbet, whose sister was concubine to K. Henry 1. and he had by her Reginald Earl of Cornwall. From this William eleven flourish'd successively. But Margaret, only daughter22 to the last, was marry'd to Robert Hungerford, by whose posterity the estate came to the Hastings, after it had been much augmented and made more honourable by the marriages of the Botereauxs with the heiresses of the noble families of the Moeles, S. Laud, or S. Lo, and Thweng [q].O [...] R [...]
From hence northward, the land shoots it self so far into the sea, that the County between the two seasx is 23 miles broad, tho' it has been hitherto but very narrow. At the greatest breadth of it, Stow S [...] stands upon the sea-coast, the ancient seat of the family of the Grenvills, G [...] famous for the antiquity and nobility of their pedigreey Amongst the rest, Richard, in the time of William Rufus, signaliz'd his courage in the Conquest of Glamorganshire in Wales; and lately another of the same Christian-name, exceeding the nobility of his birth by his own bravery, lost his life gallantly in an [Page] engagement with the Spaniard at the Azores 23. Near to this is Stratton, a market town noted for gardens, and its garlick; and next to it Lancells, a new seat of the ancient family of thez Chaumonds [r]. [...]o
The river Tamara, now Tamar, rising not far from the Northern shore, runs swiftly and violently towards the South, and after it is encreas'd with many little rivulets, passes by Tamara, a town mention'd by Ptolemy, now Tamerton 24; and at a little distance from it, is Lanstuphadon, i.e. the Church of Stephen, commonly call'd Launston; [...] a pretty little town, situate upon a rising, which out of two other burrows, Dunevet and Newport, is now grown into one Town. In the beginning of the Normans, William Earl of Moriton built aa castle here, and had a College of Prebendaries, as appears by Domesday, where it is call'd Launstaveton; which name it had, doubtless, from a College there dedicated to S. Stephen, and about the year 1150. converted into a monasteryb by Reginald Earl of Cornwall. This change the Bishops of Exeter, too much hurry'd forward by passion and interest, did vehemently oppose, fearing it might come to be a Bishop's-See, and so lessen their jurisdiction. At this day it is most remarkable for the publick Gaol, and the Assizes beingc often kept there.
Tamar going from hence has the view of a high mountain stretch'd out a great way in length, call'd by Marianusd Hengesdoun, and by him interpreted the mountain of Hengist; the name it has at present is Hengston-hill. [...] [...]ll. It was formerly pretty rich in veins of tinn25, and the place where the Tinners of Cornwall and Devonshire met every seventh or eighth year to concert their common interests. At this place also, in the year 831, the Danmonian Britains with the assistance of the Danes breaking into Devonshire to drive out the English who had then got possession of it, were totally routed by King Egbert, and cut off almost to a man26. Lower down near Saltesse (a little market town, as I observ'd before, plac'd upon a rising, and having a Mayor, with certain Privileges,) Tamar receives the river Liver, upon which stands that Town of S. Germans mention'd above. With this increase it passes to the sea, and makes a haven call'd in the Life of Indractus, Tamerworth; after it has divided Cornwall from Devonshire. For King Athelstan (who was the first King of England that entirely subdu'd those parts) made this the bound between the Cornish Britains and his own English, after he had remov'd the Britains out of Devonshire, as we learn by Malmesbury, who calls the river Tambra. Whereupon Alexander Necham, in his Hymns upon the Divine Wisdom:
e [...]d [...]oThis place seems to require something concerning Ursula, a Virgin of great sanctity, born here, and those 11000 British Virgins. But whilst some hold them to have been drown'd, under Gratian the Emperor, in the year 383. upon the coast of Germany, as they were sailing to Armorica; and others tell us, that in the year 450. at Cologn upon the Rhine, in their return from Rome, they suffer'd Martyrdom from Attila the Hunne, that instrument of God's vengeance; this difference among Authors has made some, instead of believing it an historical truth, suspect it to be a mere fable. But as to that Constantine, call'd by Gildas the tyrannous whelp of an unclean Danmonian Lioness, and the disforesting of all this County under K. John, (f for before that 'tis thought to have been a forest;) of these matters let the Historians give an account, for 'tis beside my business.
As to the Earls: Candorus, call'd by others Cadocus, Earls of Cornwall. is mention'd by the modern writers as the last Earl of Cornwall of British extraction: his Arms (as the Heralds tell you) were 15 besants 27, in a field sable. The first Earl of Norman descent was Robert Moriton, brother to William the Conqueror, as son of Herlotta; to whom succeeded William his son. This William siding with Robert the Norman against Henry 1. King of England, was taken prisoner, and lost both his liberty and honors28: to whose place, Henry 2. whilst he was making preparations for war against Stephen, advanc'd Reginald, natural son to Henry 1.29; for that King was so very incontinent, that he had no less than 13 bastards. Reginald dying without lawful issue male,Rob. de Monte 1175. Henry 2. (assigning certain lands to the daughters) reserv'd this Earldom for his young son John, then but nine years of age; upon whom Richard 1. afterwards bestow'd it with other Counties. But John coming to the Crown of England, his second son Richard had this honour, with the Earldom of Poictou, conferr'd upon him by his Brother Henry 3. This Richard was a powerful Prince in his time; as also a religious man, valiant in war, and of great conduct; behaving himself in Aquitain with wonderful valour and success. Going to the Holy Land, he forc'd the Saracens to a truce, refus'd the kingdom of Apulia when offer'd him by the Pope, quieted many tumults in England, and being chosen King of the Romans by the 7 Electors of Germany in the year 1257, was crown'd at Aix la Chapelle. There is a common verse, which intimates that he bought this honour;
For before he was so famous a mony'd man, that a Cotemporary Writer has told us, he was able to spend a hundred marks a day for 10 years together. But the civil wars breaking out in Germany30, he quickly return'd to England, where he dy'd, and was bury'd at the famous Monastery of Hales, which himself had built; a little after his eldest son Henry, in his return from the Holy wars, as he was at his devotions in a Church at Viterbium in Italy, had been villanously murder'd by Guido de Montefort, son of Simon Earl of Leicester, in revenge of his father's death. For which reason, his second son Edmund succeeded in the Earldom of Cornwall, who dying without children, his large inheritance return'd to the King, he (as the Lawyers term it) being found next a-kin and heir at law. The Arms of the Earls of Cornwall. Now since Richard and his son Edmund were of the blood Royal of England, I have often declar'd my self at a loss, to know how they came to bear Arms different from those of the Royal Family, viz. in a field argent a Lyon rampant gules, crowned or, within a border sable garnish'd with bezants. And all the reason I can give for it, is, that they might possibly do it in imitation of the Royal Family of France, (since this way of bearing Arms came to us from the French.) For the younger sons of the Kings of France, have Arms different from the Crown to this day, as one may observe in the Families of the Vermandois, Dreux, and Courtneys. And as Robert Duke of Burgundy,Bande d'Or and d'Azur a la bordeure de G [...]eules. brother of Henry 1. King of France, took the ancient Shield of the Dukes of Burgundy; so this Richard, after he had the Earldom of Poictou bestow'd upon him by his brother K. Henry 3. might probably take that Lyon gules crown'd which (as the French Authors inform us) belong'd to his Predecessors Earls of Poictou,Memoriales de Aquitaine. and [Page] might add that border sable garnish'd with bezants out of the ancient Shield of the Earls of Cornwall. For assoon as the younger sons of France began to bear the Royal Arms with some difference, we presently follow'd them; and Edward 1.'s children were the first instance. But where am I rambling to please my self with the niceties of my own profession? After Cornwall was united to the Crown, Edward 2. who had large possessions given him by his father in those parts, conferr'd the title of Earl of Cornwall upon Priece Gaveston, a Gascoine, who had been the great debaucher of him in his youth. But he being seiz'd by the Barons for corrupting the Prince, and for other crimes, was beheaded; and succeeded by John de Eltham, younger son of Edw. 2.31, who being young and dying without issue, Edw. 3.Dukes of Cornwall. erected Cornwall into a Dukedom, and invested Edward his son, a most accomplish'd Soldier, in the year 1336, with the Dukedom of Cornwall, by a wreath on his head, a ring upon his finger, and a silver verge. Since which time (g as I shall observe from Record, leaving still the judgment of it to the opinion of Lawyers) the eldest son of the King of England is born Earl of Cornwall, and by a special Act made in that case, O [...] [...] H [...] he is to be presum'd of full age assoon as ever he is born, so that he may claim livery and seisin of the said Dukedom the same day he's born, and ought by right to obtain it, as if he had fully compleated the age of twenty one. He hath also Royalties and Prerogatives in actions, the stannaries, wrecks, customs, &c. for which, and the like, he has certain Officers appointed him. But these matters are laid open more distinctly and at large by Richard Carew of Anthony (a person no less eminent for his honorable Ancestors, than his own virtue and learning) who hath describ'd this County at large, not contenting himself with a narrow draught; and whom I cannot but acknowledge to have been my guide.
There are in this County 161 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to CORNWALL.
CORNWALL, as by the situation 'tis in a manner cut from the rest of England, so by its peculiar customs and privileges, added to a difference of Language, it may seem to be another Kingdom. Upon which account, it is necessary to give some light into these matters, before we enter upon the Survey of the County.
Privileges of Cornwall.To begin with the Privileges. In the 21. of Elizabeth, it was order'd, that all charge of Custom (for transporting of Cornish Cloath) upon any English-man within the Dutchy of Cornwall, should be discharg'd; and that for the future no Custom should be paid for it. This was first granted them by the Black-Prince, and hath always been enjoy'd by them in consideration that they have paid, and do still pay, 4 s. for the coynage of every hundred of tinn, whereas Devonshire pays but 8 d.
They have also the freedom to take sand out of the sea, and carry it through the whole County, to manure their ground withal.R. Chart. de An. 45 Hen. 3. This is a Grant made by Richard Duke of Cornwall, which is confirm'd An. 45 Hen. 3. by that King; whereupon, in the next Reign, upon an Inquisition made, we find a complaint, that Saltash had lately taken yearly 12 s. for each Barge that carry'd Sand up Tamar; whereas nothing ought to have been demanded.
By this it appears, that ever since Hen. 3. at least, this has been the chief way of improving their ground: and they still continue the same method; carrying it ten miles up into the country, and for a great part of the way too upon horses backs. One might be more particular here in the several sorts of Sand, and their manner of using them; but anPhilosoph. Transact. numb. 113. pag. 293. ingenious Discourse upon this Subject, has superseded that labour. However, what Mr. Ray has communicated concerning the virtue of the sand, may perhaps not be unacceptable. He is of opinion, that it depends chiefly upon the salt mix'd with it; which is so copious, that in many places salt is boyl'd up out of a Lixivium made of the sea-sand; and the reason why sand after it hath lain long in the sun and wind proves less useful and enriching, is, because the dews and rain which fall upon it, sweep away a good part of it's salt.
They had likewise a privilege of trading to all parts of the world, granted them by K. Charles 1. in recompence of their Loyalty; and the same King writ them a Letter of Thanks dated from Sudley-castle Sept. 3. 1643. which begins thus; We are so highly sensible of the extraordinary merit of our County of Cornwall, &c. and concludes with an Order to have it read and preserv'd in every Church and Chapel throughout the whole County.
Their Government is now much the same with the rest of England; for in the 32 Hen. 8.G [...] [...] C [...] a President and Council were erected for the West: but Cornwall and some others, desirous to be under the immediate government of the King and Common Law, vigorously oppos'd it; so that it came to nothing.
Their Language too, is the English;L [...] and (which is something surprizing) observ'd by Travellers to be more pure and refin'd than that of their neighbours, Devonshire and Somersetshire. The most probable reason whereof, seems to be this; that English is to them an introduc'd, not an original Language; and those who brought it in were the Gentry and Merchants, who imitated the Dialect of the Court, which is the most nice and accurate. Their neat way of living and housewifery, upon which they justly value themselves above their neighbours, does possibly proceed from the same cause.
The old Cornish is almost quite driven out of the Country, being spoken only by the vulgar in two or three Parishes at the Lands-end; and they too understand the English. In other parts, the inhabitants know little or nothing of it; so that in all likelihood, a short time will destroy the small remains that are left of it. 'Tis a good while since, that only two men could write it, and one of them no Scholar or Grammarian, and then blind with age. And indeed, it cannot well be otherwise; for, beside the inconveniencies common to them with the Welsh, (such as the destruction of their original Monuments, which Gildas complains of; and the Roman Language breaking in upon them, hinted by the same Gildas, with Tacitus and Martial) their language has had some peculiar disadvantages. As, 1.C [...] the [...] of [...] the loss of commerce and correspondence with the Armoricans under Henry 7. before which time they had mutual interchanges of families and Princes with them. Now the present language of that people,H [...] [...] is no other in it's Radicals than the Cornish, and they still understand one another. The affinity between them, and the agreement of Welsh with them both, will be better apprehended by a Specimen of the Lord's Prayer in each.
The Lord's Prayer in Cornish.
Ny Taz ez yn neau, bonegas yw tha hanaw. Tha Gwlakath doaz. Tha bonogath bo gwrez en nore pocaragen neau, Roe thenyen dythma yon dyth bara givians ny gan rabn weery cara ny givians mens o cabin. Ledia ny nara idn tentation. Buz dilver ny thart doeg.
Welsh.
Ein Tad yr hwn wyt yn y nefoedd, sancteiddier dy enw: Deued dy deyrmas; bid dy ewyllys ar yddaiar megis y mac yn y nefoedd dyro i ni heddyw ein bara beunyddiol: a maddeu i ni ein dyledion, fel y maddewn ni i'n dyledwyr: ac nar arwain mi brofe digaeth, eithr gwared in rhag drwg.
Armoric.
Hon Tat, petung so en eoûn, ot'h Hano bezet samtifiet De vet de omp ho Roväntelez Ha volonté bezet gret voar an doüar euel en eoûn Roit dezomp hinou hor bara bemdezier. Ha pardonnit dezomp hon offançon evelma pardon nomp d'ac re odeus hon offancet. Ua n'hon digaçit quel e' tentation. Hoguen hon delivrit a droue.
Tho' indeed, they affirm the affinity in general to be much greater than appears here. However, the remains of the Cornish being so very narrow, to set down the Creed in that language, as it may gratifie the Antiquaries, so will it preserve to posterity some of that little we have still left.
The Creed in Cornish.
Me agreez en du Taz ollgologack y wrig en neu han noare. Ha yn Jesu Crest y vabe hag agan arlyth auy conseuyys dur an speriz sanz, geniz thart an Voz Mareea, sufferai dadn Ponc Pilat, ve goris dan Vērnans ha bethis, ha thes kidnias the yffarn, y savas arta yn trysa dyth, ha seth war dighow dornyndue taz ollgologack, thurt ena eu ra dvaz tha juga yn beaw han varaw. Me agreez yn speriz sanz, sanz Cathalic Eglis, yn communion yn sans, yn givyans an pegh, yn derivyans yn corf, han Bowians ragnevera. Andellarobo.
2. Another particular cause of the decay of it, is, that when the Act of Uniformity was made, the Welsh had it in their own tongue; but the Cornish, being in love with the English, to gratify their novelty, desir'd (it seems) to have the Common Liturgy in that Language. 3. The giving over of the Guirimears, i.e. great Speeches, which were formerly us'd at the great Conventions of the people, and consisted of Scriptural Histories, &c. They were held in the spatious and open downs, wherein there were earthen banks thrown up on purpose, large enough to enclose thousands of people, as appears by their shape in several places, which remains to this day.
These (with the coming in of Artificers, Tradingmen, Ministers, &c.) may probably have contributed very much to this general neglect of their original language, so that almost nothing now appears of it in their conversation, and but very little in any old writing. Three books in Cornish, are all that can be found. One is written in an old court-hand on Vellam, and in 1036 verses, contains the History of the Passion of our Saviour. It always has Chrest for Christ, according to the ancient Roman way of writing Chrestus for Christus: so [...]d. c. Suetonius, Judaeos, impulsore Chresto, tumultuantes, &c. But perhaps this may not be any mark of it's Antiquity, because the Cornish pronounce it Crest. By the characters and pictures, it looks something like the time of Richard 3. or thereabouts; and positively determines against Transubstantiation. The other two are transcrib'd out of the Bodleian Library; one is translated, and the other is now a translating by Mr. Keigwin, the only person perhaps that perfectly understands the tongue.
[a] And so much for the County in general. We will now go along with Mr. Camden in his description of it; who to confirm his conjecture about the Original of the name Cornwall, observes some other places of the like denomination. To his instances may be added, the City Carnon, otherwise call'd Carna, meerly upon the account of it's standing upon an angle, cut out by two high-ways that met there in a point; and Corsica, call'd by the Phoenicians Carnatha, which was afterwards mollify'd by the Greeks into [...], all from it's having so many Promontories. And these names being all in the Eastern Countries, seem to favour an opinion produc'd by a [...]es 5 [...]. later Author, that this County originally had the name from the Phoenicians, who traded hither for tinn, cheren in their language being a horn. For besides that there is no other Promontory in this Island of that name, tho' the shape of several would answer it well enough (which argue that it was no custom amongst the Britains, to give such names;) besides this, I say, the nature of the thing does very much favour it: for the form depending intirely upon the increase or decrease of the sea-coast, Sailors might better discover it at a distance, than the inhabitants could do by land, or by the assistance of their little boats, with which they ply'd only upon the very shores.
But what if quitting this, we should derive the name from Carn, which signifies in British a rock, as much more easie and natural, and not requiring the assistance of a strong fancy to help it out? That the place it self would suit with such a conjecture, is agreed by all; and our histories inform us, that when the Britains betook themselves to those parts, they had a particular eye to the rocks and mountains as the most likely place for shelter; so eminent was that country for them. This opinion is yet more probable, if we consider that several of these rocky hills to this day retain the name of Carn, as Carn-Innis, Carn-chy, Carn-bray, Carn-margh, Carn-ulac, &c.
[b] The latter part of the name, 'tis true, implies a stranger, but the Saxons did not call such an one Wealsh but Wealh, as appears by Wealh-beod a foreign nation, Wealh-stod an interpreter; and such like. And this, no doubt, gave the name to the Welsh in general, tho'De Vitiit Serm. l. 2. c. 20. Vossius,Rerum Scotic. lib. 2. Buchanan,German. Antiqu. l. 1, c. 9. Cluver, and others, rejecting our Author's judgment, have advanc'd another conjecture; affirming it to come from Gaule, by a change of (g) into (w) according to the German dialect. For (say they) the Saxons coming over, and observing them to have the same language with the Gaules, as also the same customs and ways of living, presently term'd them Gaules, or Waules. But besides that the Saxons could not be so much surpriz'd at this affinity, having by their piracies for many years, got a tolerable knowledge of both nations;Somner's Glossar. the name of Weallas was not us'd till the utter subversion and expulsion of the poor Britains. Bede calls them Britones, and in Alfred's Version of him we meet with Bryttas, and Breotene, Bretene, Brytene, &c. but not a word of the Weallas or Wallia; whereas to express Gaule, we find Gallia and Gallia-ride. The first mention of it is in the Laws of King Ina, which were made at least a hundred years after the extirpation of the Britains; and when that was effected, what could be more natural than to call those peregrini, and extranei, pilgrims and travellers, whom they had forc'd to quit their native Country, and look out for a new seat?
[c] After the Original of the name, our Author is very distinct in his account of the Stannaries Stannari [...]s. or tinn-mines. It may be farther worth our observation, that tho' Cornwall now have the greatest share in them, there being little or no tinn made in Devonshire; yet in K. John's time there was more found in that County, than in Cornwall. For it appears that [Page] the Coynage of Devonshire was then set to farm for 100 l. per An. whereas that of Cornwall yielded but 100 marks. And according to this proportion the tenth thereof amounting to 16 l. 13 s. 4 d. is at this day paid by the Crown to the Bishop of Exeter. But K. John did not first bestow these tenths upon the Church (as some say,) for he only restor'd them, upon a complaint made by the Bishop, that those who rented the Stannaries refus'd to pay him his due.
In the working of these tin mines, there has been often found mix'd with the-tinn, another sort of Ore which was yellow, commonly call'd Mundick; Mundick. neglected for a long time by the Tinners; and when it was work'd along with the tinn, went all away in a smoak, which was look'd upon to be very unwholsome. But lately it has been try'd and wrought singly by some curious undertakers, and is found to turn to very great advantage, by affording true copper. So that whereas before, the value of the tinn made it neglected, now the extraordinary return that copper makes, is like to lessen the value of tinn. This Mundick, as in some respects it is very unwholsome, so in others it is a sovereign remedy. Where there have been great quantities of it, working in the mines was very dangerous, by reason of the great damps and unwholsome steams, which often rising on a sudden, choak'd the workmen. But for this it makes amends by an effect entirely contrary; for being apply'd to any wound before it is wrought, it suddenly heals it; and the workmen when they receive cuts or wounds (as they often do in the mines) use no other remedy but washing them in the water that runs from the Mundick-ore. But if it is drest and burnt, the water in which 'tis wash'd is so venomous, that it festers any sore, and kills the fish of any river it falls into.
Our Author tells us, that all the Tinn after 'tis wrought is to be brought to one of the four Towns to be stamp'd, &c. The stamp is the seal of the Dutchy; and the towns, Liskeard, Lostwithiell, Truro, and Helston; but since Mr. Camden's time, Pensans also is made a Coynage-town. In Edw. 1. time, Bodmyn made up a fifth, but in the reign of Edw. 2. upon a petition to the King and Council, made by the men of Lostwithiell, it was given in favour of the latter, and Bodmyn depriv'd of that privilege. There are also two other Coynages, which the Tinners call Post-Coynages, and for which they pay 4 d. for every hundred weight: these are at Lady-day and Christmas. After the Coynage and other legal duties are satisfy'd, the Tinner is at liberty to sell his tinn as he thinks fit, except the King or Duke has a mind to buy it; for they have a right of Preemption.
In the 33d year of K. Edw. 1. the Tinners of Cornwall pray'd and obtain'd a Charter of their Liberties, distinct from those of Devonshire, according to the form of K. Henry's confirmation; and the Merchants buying tinn in Cornwall, obtain'd a grant of 2 Coynages yearly, that is, at the Feasts of S. John and S. Michael; and from the date of K. Edward's Charter the Tinners of Cornwall became a separate body from those of Devonshire. But the Officers of the Stannaries in both Counties, under colour of their Liberties, using divers oppressions; upon a complaint made, 50 Edw. 3. an Explanation of the Charters was made by Act of Parliament; which was confirm'd, and the jurisdiction of the Stannaries farther restrain'd by a Statute in the 17 Car. 1.
Prince Arthur, eldest son to K. Hen. 7. made certain Constitutions relating to the Stannaries, which the Tinners refus'd to observe; and taking a greater liberty than was justifiable by their Charters, K. Hen. 7. (who seldom let slip any opportunity of filling his coffers) made that a pretence after K. Arthur's death, to secure the Stannaries into his own hands. But finding that it did not turn to so much account as he had propos'd, he was prevail'd upon to accept of 1000 l. for all the pretended Forfeitures, granting them his Charter of pardon. By which Charter he farther granted, that no Law relating to the Tinners should be made without the consent of 24 Stannators; and those to be chosen by the Mayor and Council of a Borough in the 4 divisions, 6 out of each.
[d] To come to the several parts of the County; our Author observes that the Tamar is it's entire bound from Devonshire. And in most places it does divide them, but not in all: for Mount Edgcombe, and a great part of the Parish of Maker, though on the west-side of Tamar, are yet in Devonshire; only as to Ecclesiastical Jurisdiction they are within the Archdeaconry of Cornwall; and over against Saltash on the east-side Tamar, 'tis within Cornwall, and so about Northamerton. The reason probably is this; upon the division of the Shires, some eminent persons living on one side the river, and yet having part of their estates upon the other, got the latter included within the same County as the former. So the family of Valletorte or de Valle tortà, having their mansion on the east-side of the river (perhaps at or about Plimouth, where is yet known the mannour of Vawtort or Valletort) had on the west-side some piece of their estate, and so got it to be part of Devonshire. Thus all that tract of ground of which Mount-Edgcomb is a part, being call'd by the name of Vawtort's home, continues part of Devonshire. Whether that small part of Kent near Woolwich, lying on Essex-side; as also a piece of Oxfordshire near Culham on Berkshire side; and a slip of Staffordshire upon Derbyshire side, may not have happen'd upon the like occasion, those who have an opportunity of seeing the records of the respective places, would do well to consider.
[e] The bound being thus settl'd, let us return to the Lands-end, where on a little Island so much distant from the land that a boat with Oars may pass between, stood Caren an Peale, commonly call'd the Armed Knight: Caren signifies a rock, and Pele a spire.The [...] K [...] The spire was ten fathom above the ordinary flux of the sea, very narrow at top. In the year before King Charles 1. was beheaded, it was prodigiously cut off by a storm, where 'twas 14 foot square; and falling, broke in three pieces.
[f] Mr. Camden mentions a Tradition that this Promontory stretch'd it self farther towards the West;Li [...] to which, these hints may perhaps contribute something of probability: That about the middle way between Land's end and Scilly there are rocks call'd in Cornish Lethas, by the English Seven-stones; and the Cornish call that place within the stones Tregva, i.e. a dwelling, where it has been reported that windows and such other stuff have been taken up with hooks (for that is the best place of fishing;) that from the Lands-end to Scilly is an equal depth of water; that S. Michael's Mount is call'd in Cornish Careg cowse in clowse, i.e. the hoary rock in the wood; that 'tis certain, there have been large trees, with roots and body, driven in by the sea between S. Michael's Mount and Pensance of late years. To these add the tradition, that at the time of this inundation, Trevilian swam from thence, and in memory thereof bears Gules an horse argent issuing out of the sea proper.
[g] Near the utmost rocks, stands St. Burians, S. B [...] an independant Deanery formerly belonging to the Pope, and seiz'd into the King's hands by one of the Edwards. It contains within it's jurisdiction the parishes of Burian, Zennen, and S. Leven, and the Bishops of Exeter holding it in Commendam, all spiritual jurisdiction is so entirely lodg'd in them, that there lyes no Appeal from them but to the King directly. Upon a tomb in the Church there is this Inscription, which possibly may afford the curious some light into their ancient Letters, and the fashions of tombs in those days.
We may observe, that upon one side of it is written Bollait, and within that parish there is a place of the same name, to which the deceas'd party did belong.
[...] [...]e.[h] Not far from this place is Biscaw-woune, which our Author imagines to have been a trophy rais'd either by the Romans or K. Athelstan. But it may be worth the Reader's enquiry, whether it is not more probably an ancient Sepulchral monument of the Britains; especially, since it plainly appears from the inscription of [...] in [...]ounty [...] the Hurl- [...] other Stones thus set up on end, that they were such. One particularly in Wales, observ'd by Mr. Edw. Lhwyd, encompass'd indeed with a ditch instead of stones, has an Inscription to this sense, Mayest thou awake.
[...]ns.[i] More to the East is Pensans, which our Author interprets Caput sabuli, or the head of the sands. But the true construction of the word is the head of the saint; and that this is the right name, appears from the Arms of the town, which are, St. John Baptist's head in a charger. If this did not put it beyond all dispute, we might imagine the original name to have been Pensavas, which signifies the head of the channel, and agrees very well to the nature of the place.
In this parish is S. Maddren's Well, the cures whereof have been very remarkable. [...]d. [...] Well. [...]tery [...] Bishop Hall tells us, that a Cripple who for 16 years together was forc'd to walk upon his hands by reason the sinews of his legs were contracted, was induc'd by a dream to wash in this Well; which had so good effect, that himself saw him both able to walk, and to get his own maintenance. I know not whether this be a distinct instance from another that is undoubtedly true. Two persons that had found the prescriptions of Physicians and Chirurgeons altogether unprofitable, went to this Well (according to the ancient custom) on Corpus Christi Eve, and laying a small offering upon the Altar, drank of the water, laid upon the ground all night, in the morning took a good draught more, and each of them carry'd away some of the water in a bottle. Within 3 weeks they found the effect of it, and (their strength increasing by degrees) were able to move themselves upon crutches. Next year they took the same course, after which they were able to go up and down by the help of a staff. At length, one of them, being a Fisherman, was, and, if he be alive, is still able to follow that business. The other was a Soldier under Colonel William Godolphin, and dy'd in the service of K. Ch. 1.
After this, the Well was superstitiously frequented, so that the Rector of the neighbouring Parish was forc'd to reprove several of his Parishioners for it. But accidentally meeting a woman coming from it with a bottle in her hand, and being troubl'd with colical pains, desir'd to drink of it, and found himself eas'd of that distemper.
The instances are too near our own times, and too well attested, to fall under the suspicion of bare traditions or Legendary fables: And being so very remarkable, may well claim a place here. Only, 'tis worth our observation, that the last of them destroys the miracle; for if he was cur'd upon accidentally tasting it, then the Ceremonies of offering, lying on the ground, &c. contributed nothing; and so the virtue of the water claims the whole remedy.
[k] Going along the sea-coast, we come to the Chersonese call'd Meneg, Meneg. which, as also the Erth in it (a monument mention d by our Author) a late curiousSammes Brit. p. 59. writer will have of a Phoenician original; the first from Meneog signifying kept in by the sea; and the second from Arith, a common name for lakes; and this military fence being plac'd by a lake, may very well be suppos'd to have it's denomination from thence.
[l] Upon the same coast is Tregeny, Tregeny. interpreted by our Author, a little town at the mouth. But (if I am rightly inform'd) there is no occasion for the diminutive; which is the rather probable, becauseIbid. p. 60. Tira and by contraction tra in the Phoenician, is so far from signifying any inconsiderable place, that it denotes a Fort or Castle.
The not knowing the signification of this word, has led into an error several of the Cornish-gentry in taking their coat-armour, according to the import of their name. Thus Trefusis (which does really signifie a walled town or fortify'd place) because the sound goes somewhat alike, is whirl'd into three fusils, and so three spindles are crept into the arms of that name. Trenances, is a place or town by a vale; but because it sounds not unlike tres enses, a fess between three swords is born by the family. Many more instances of this kind might be given, especially where the initial Tre (as if it were of a Latin original) has determin'd them to take three of whatever they chuse.
Near Tregeny is Grampound, Grampound to the Burgers whereof John of Eltham Earl of Cornwall, in his Charter which is still extant, granted and confirm'd the whole Ville of Grampont, and all the lands of Coytfala, which in the British signifies Fala wood; and at this day there are certain Lands adjoyning to the town, and within the precincts of the borough, call'd Coisfala. Which remains of the old name, and the situation of the town exactly agreeing with that of Voluba Voluba. in Ptolemy, seem to justifie an opinion, that upon erecting the adjoyning bridge over the river Vale, it exchang'd the name of Voluba for Ponsmur; by which name (in British signifying a great bridge) Edmund Earl of Cornwall enfranchis'd it; and this being put into French, is exactly Granpond, or as 'tis call'd at this day Grampond. Upon the sea coast at some distance, is Tregonan the seat of the Tredenhams, an ancient and well-ally'd family.
[m] Not far from hence is Roseland, Roseland. which neither borrows its name from a rose (as the vulgar,) nor from heath, as our Author imagines; but from Rose or Ross, which is in Cornish, a Vale or Valley. The sound of this word implying, something of a rose, and the beauty of that flower, has led some into the same error as the foremention'd Tre has done others. So Rosagan (which name signifies no more than a white valley,) takes 3 red Roses. Roscarrock (i.e. a rock in the valley) a rose and a tench. Penrose (i.e. head of the valley) a bend set about with roses: with others of the same kind.
Farther up in the land is Lanhidrock, Lanhidrock. the seat of the Right honorable the Earl of Radnor, whose Great Grandfather was made Baron of Truro by K. Ch. 1. and his Grandfather Earl of Radnor by K. Ch. 2.
[n] More to the east is S. Neots, S. Neots. where the very footsteps of the old Church or College are quite gone; so that there are no ruins of it within the parish, no body knows where it stood, nor are there [Page] any Church-lands that are known to have formerly belong'd to it: which makes it probable that it was alienated long before the Reformation. Here is at present a fine country Church; and in the windows are several pictures relating to some particular traditions of the Jews; which are exactly deliver'd in a Cornish book now in theArchiv. B.31. publick Library at Oxford. 'Tis probable they had these traditions immediately from the Jews themselves, who were here in great numbers about the tinn.
[o] From hence northward we come to Wring-cheese, Wring-cheese. stones which lie upon a high rock, and were doubtless naturally and accidentally so pil'd one upon another; lying askew, and not perpendicularly, the least at the bottom.
Near to these are the Hurlers, Hurlers. which are oblong, rude and unhewn stones, pitch'd in the ground on one end, standing upon a down in three circles, the centers wereof are in a right line; the middlemost circle the greatest. They seem neither to be trophies nor land-marks (as our Author conjectures,)See Biscaw-woune before, in this County. but burying places of the ancient Britains. For The other half stone (mention'd by Camden) not far from those Hurlers, appears by the inscription to have been a sepulchral stone. And that too call'd the Long-stone standing in the downs about half a mile from the Hurlers, above two yards and a half high, with a Cross on both sides, was doubtless a funeral monument. The figure of it is this
About two miles from the river Loo, is the present seat of the ancient family of the Trelawnies, to which by marriage with one of the daughters heiresses to Courtney Earl of Devonshire, a great part of the inheritance of that noble family came. They were possess'd of this place only since the reign of Queen Elizabeth, having before been for many ages seated first at Trelawny, and afterwards at Minhinnead, (a town distant about 6 miles, on the same river Loo) where they still have a large house, the place of their former residence, call'd Pool. Pool.
Towards the northern coast of this County is Trerice, Trerice. the seat of the Lord Arundel, whose family was advanc'd by K. Charles 2. to the dignity of Barons, for their eminent loyalty and service to the Crown.
[p] About 5 miles above Padstow is Wadebridge, Wadebridge. a bridge of seventeen arches, and much the largest in the whole country.Lel. Itinerar. vol. 2. It was built by one Love-bone Vicar of the place, to prevent those dangers which passengers on horse-back were expos'd to by ferrying over. The foundations of some of the arches were first laid upon quick sands, which made the undertaker despair of effecting his design, till he laid packs of wool for the ground work.
[q] Upon the north-coast is Botereaux, Botereaux. which by marriage with an heiress of that name, our Author tells us came to the Hungerfords. By her Robert Lord Hungerford had issue Robert Lord Hungerford and Molins, and he Thomas Lord Hungerford his son, whose sole heiress Mary was marry'd to Edward Lord Hastings and Hungerford; by whom he had George the first of that Sirname Earl of Huntingdon. This castle with a large inheritance continu'd in that family until the reign of Queen Elizabeth.
[r] Towards the north-east upon the same coast lies Stratton, Stratton. near which place, the Cornish forces for K. Charles 1. An. 1643. gain'd a victory over the Parliament-army. In the place, there follow'd a prodigious crop of barley, ten or twelve ears on one stalk. So formerly, after the battle with the Danes in Swornfield, a certain shrub sprang up (therefore call'd Dane-ball or Dane-wort, by others Dwarf-elder) which is no where else to be found but there, or transplanted from thence.
Continuation of the DUKES.
By virtue of that Privilege (mention'd by our Author) whereby the King's eldest Son is born Duke of Cornwall, since Edward the Black-Prince, the heirs apparent to the Crown of England (if eldest sons) have enjoy'd it successively.
A Catalogue of more rare Plants growing wild in Cornwall.
Alsine spuria pusilla repens, foliis saxifragae aureae. Small creeping round-leaved bastard chickweed. On moist banks in many places both of Cornwall and Devonshire, together with Campanula Cymbalariae foliis. This Plant is figur'd by Dr. Plukenet Phytograph. Tab. 7. and describ'd in Synops. Stirp. Britan.
Asparagus palustris Ger. marinus J.B. marinus crassiore folio Park. maritimus crassiore folio C.B. Marsh-Asparagus or Sperage. It is found growing on the cliffs at the Lizard-point in Cornwall.
Ascyrum supinum villosum palustre C. B. Park. Ascyr 2. sive supinum [...] Clusii Ger. emac. Round-leaved marsh St. Peter's wort. On boggy grounds about springing waters in many places, most abundantly towards the Lands end in this County.
Campanula Cymbalariae foliis Ger. emac. Park. Cymbalariae foliis vel folio hederaceo C. B. folio hederaceo, species Cantabricae Anguillarae J. B. Tender Ivy-leaved Bellflower. On many moist and watery banks in this County, and elsewhere in the West of England.
Centaurium palustre-luteum minimum. The least Marsh Centory. On a rotten boggy ground between S. Ives and Pensans. It grows also in several the like places thereabouts.
Chamaemelum odoratissimum repens flore simplici J. B. nobile seu odoratius C. B. Romanum Ger. Sweet scented creeping Camomile, or common Camomile. It grows so plentifully upon the downs in this Countrey, that you may scent it all along as you ride.
Erica foliis Corios multiflora J. B. Coris folio secundae altera species Clus. Juniperifolia Narbonensis, densè fruticans Lob. Fir-leaved Heath with many flowers. On Goon-hilly downs going from Helston to the Lizard point, plentifully. This is different from the the second Erica Coris folio of Clusius, notwithstanding that C. Bauhine, and Parkinson following him, make it the same therewith. For Clusius himself distinguisheth them.
Euphrasia lutea latifolia palustris. Euph. latifolia viscata serrata H. Reg. Blaes. Great yellow Marsh Eybright. About boggy and watery places, especially towards the further end of this County, plentifully. Figured in Dr. Plukenet's Phytogr. Tab. 27.
Foeniculum vulgare Ger. Park. vulgare minus nigriore & acriore semine J. B. vulgare Germanicum C. B. item sylvestre ejusdem. Common Fennel or Finckle. All along the cliffs between Lalant and St. Ives, and thereabouts, plentifully.
Geranium pusillum maritimum supinum Betonicae folio nostras. Small Sea-Cranesbill with Betony leaves. In sandy and gravelly places near the Sea, about Pensans and elsewhere abundantly. This is figured by Dr. Plukenet in his Phytographia, Tab. 31. Fig. 4.
Gnaphalium maritimum C. B. maritimum multis J. B. marinum Ger. marinum seu cotonaria Park. Sea-Cudweed or Cotton-weed. On the baich or gravelly shore between Pensans and St. Michael's mount plentifully.
Gramen dactyloides radice repente Ger. dactylon folio arundinaceo majus C. B. repens, cum panicula Graminis Mannae J. B. canarium, Ischaemi paniculis Park. Creeping Cocksfoot-grass. Found by Mr. Newton on the sandy shores between Pensans and Marketjeu, plentifully.
Herniaria glabra. Herniaria Ger. J. B. Millegrana major seu Herniaria vulgaris Park. Polygonum minus S. Millegrana minor C. B. Smooth-leaved Rupturewort. At the Lizard point plentifully.
Hyacinthus Autumnalis minor Ger. Park. Autumnalis minimus J. B. stellaris Autumnalis minor C. B. The lesser Autumnal Star-Hyacinth. On the Promontory called the Lizard point plentifully.
Pisum maritimum Anglicum. The English Sea-pease. The same, I suppose, which grows on the baich between Aldburgh and Orford in Suffolk, where see the Synonyma. On the baich near Pensans where the Gnaphalium marinum grows.
Linaria odorata Monspessulana J. B. An Linaria capillaceo folio erecta, flore odoro C.B?Linar. caryophyllata albicans C. B? Blue sweet-smelling Toad-flax. Near Perin along the hedges plentifully. It grows sometimes a yard high. The leaves are not set confusedly on the stalk, as in the common Linaria, but in rundles at distances. The stalks are brittle, much branched toward the top, and the flowers stand not thick clustering together, but more sparsed, or at greater intervals: and are of a pale blue, and streaked all along, heel and all, with a deeper. The lower lip at the gaping is spotted with yellow.
Linum sylvestre angustifolium, floribus dilutè purpurascentibus vel carneis C. B. sylv. angustifolium J. B. An Linum sylvestre angustifolium 6. Clus? an Lini sylv. quinti varietas ejusdem? Narrow-leaved wild Flax. In the pastures by the Sea-side about S. Ives and Truro plentifully.
Peplis J. B. Jer. Park. maritima folio obtuso C. B. Small purple Sea-spurge. On the sandy shores between Pensans and Market jeu plentifully. I have not found this any where else in England; but in hot Countries as Italy abundantly.
Pinguicula flore minore carneo. Butterwort with a small flesh-coloured flower, in moist meadows and marsh-grounds about Kilkhampton and elsewhere.
Polygonum Serpyllifolium verticillatum. Polyg. parvum flore alb. verticillato J. B. An Polygala repens nuperorum Lob? repens Park? repens nivea C. B. Verticillate Knot-grass with Thyme-like leaves. It grows in watery places near Springs, between S. Columbe and Michil, and about Pensans, and towards the Lands end in many places.
To these I shall add a sort of grain, sown plentifully towards the further end of this County; that is,
Avena nuda Ger. J. B. C. B. Park. Naked Oats, called hereabouts Pillis or Pill-corn, from its being naturally as it were pilled or denuded of the husk, wherewith the common Oat is covered. It is much esteemed, and of equal price with Wheat.
DEVONSHIRE.
THE hither Country of the Danmonii, which I have mention'd, is now commonly call'd Denshire, by the Cornish-Britains Deunan, by the Welsh-Britains Duffneynt, that is, deep vallies, because they live every where here lowly in the bottoms; by the English Saxonsa Deuenschire, from whence comes the latin Devonia, and that contracted name, us'd by the vulgar,b Denshire; and not from the Danes, as some Pretenders do stifflly hold. This Country as it shoots out on both sides with greater breadth than Cornwall, so it has more commodious harbours on each side of it; nor is it less rich in tinn mines [a], especially towards the west-part; being enamel'd with finer meadows, shelter'd with more woods, and very full of towns and houses. But the soil in some places is as poor and lean, on the other side; which however makes a good return to the husbandman, if he has skill in husbandry, a mind to labour, and a good purse to bestow upon it. Nor indeed are there many places in England, where land requires more charge to till it; for it is almost quite barren in most parts, unless it be over-spread with ac certain sand from the sea, [...] sand. which renders it very fruitful, and as it were impregnates the glebe; and therefore in places more remote from the shore, it is bought dear [b].
In describing this County, my way shall be first along the west-side, bounded by the Tamar; then along the south, which lies upon the Ocean; from hence by the eastern-bounds, where it touches upon the County of Dorset, and Somersetshire, I will return to the north-coast, which is bounded by the Severn-Sea.
The Tamar (which divides these counties) first on this side from the east receives the small river Lid, upon which stands Lidston, a little market-town, [...]ord. and Lidford now a small village, but formerly a famous town [c], most sadly shaken by the Danes in the year 997. This town (as it appears from that book wherein William 1. took his survey of England) was wont to be taxed at the same time, and after the same manner that London was. This little river Lid, being here at the bridge pent up with rocks, has made it self so deep a fall continual working, that the water is not to be seen, but only the murmure of it to be heard, to the great admiration of those that pass over.
Lower down, the Teave, a little river, runs into the Tamar, upon which flourishes Teavistoke, commonly Tavistoke, formerly famous for an Abbey,Tavistoke. The foundation Charter. which Ordulph the son of Ordgar, Earl of Devonshire, by the admonishment of a vision from heaven, built about the year of our Saviour 961. The place (says Malmesbury) is pleasant for the convenience of wood, for fine fishing, and an uniform Church; the banks of the river lie along just by the shops, which by the force of it's current washes away all the rubbish thrown into it. Saint Rumon a Bishop is much talk'd of there, where he lies bury'd. And there is seen in the same Monastery the sepulcher of Ordgar; and the huge bulk of Mausolaeus his Son is look'd upon as a wonder; he is call'd Ordulf, of gigantick growth, and prodigious strength. For he could break the bars of gates, and go along the river ten foot broad stridewise, if we may credit the said William. But it had hardly continu'd thirty three years from the foundation of it, till it was burnt down by the Danes. Yet it flourish'd again, and by a laudable institution,Saxon Lectures. here were Lectures of our old mother tongue (I mean the Saxon-language, which is now grown into disuse) continu'd down to the last age, lest (that which hath almost now happen'd,) the knowledge of it should be quite lost [d]. The Tamar having receiv'd the Teave, comes next to it's mouth, where the Plim, in conjunction with it, rolls into the sea, and gives name to the town Plimouth Plimouth. seated on it, which was formerly call'd Sutton: this seems to have been twofold;13 H. 4. for we find mention in the Acts of Parliament, of Sutton Vautort, and Sutton Prior, which partly belong'd to the family of the Valletorts, and partly to the Prior. In the last age from a small fisher-village it grew up to a large town, and is not inferiour to a city, in number of inhabitants, as we see it at this day [e]. The convenience of the Haven was the cause of this rise, which admits the greatest ships that are, without striking sail, and yields them safe harbour, tho' never so big, as well in the Tamar as the Plim: besides, it is sufficiently fortify'd to withstand the attacques of an enemy. For in the very middle, thed Isle S. Michael lies before it, which is also fortify'd. And then the Haven at the town is guarded on both sides, and block'd up with a chain crossing it, upon occasion; being guarded on the south by a bastion, and by a castle on the next hill; built, (as 'tis thought) by the Valletorts. The whole town is divided into four tribes, which we in our language call Wards, who are all govern'd by a Mayor, ordain'd by Henry 6. and under him formerly aCapitaners. Captain was made to every [Page 27-28] single ward, who had each one also his inferior Officers. As to that fable of Corinaeus's wrastling with Gogmagog Gogmagog the giant in this place, it may suffice to subscribe a verse or two from the Architrenius concerning our giants:
That Rock, from which the Giant is reported to have been thrust off, is now call'd the Haw, a hill between the town and the sea; on the top whereof, which is levelled into a delicate plain, there is a very pleasant prospect on all sides, and a curious Index, which they call a compass, for the use of mariners. The town is not very large, but its name and reputation is very great among all nations; and that not so much for the convenience of the harbour, as for the excellence of the Natives1. For, to mention no others, this town gave being to Sir Francis Drake Sir Francis Drake. Knight; in maritime atchievements, without dispute, the greatest Captain of our age. Who first to repair the losses he had suffer'd from the Spaniards, as I have heard himself say as it were, block d up the Bay of Mexico for two years together with continual defeats; and travell'd over the Straits of Dariena; whence having descry'd the South-sea, as the Spaniards call it, it made such impression on his mind, that like Themistocles inflam'd with the trophies of Miltiades, he thought he should be wanting to himself, his country, and his own glory, if he did not complete the discovery. Therefore in the year 1577. going off from hence, and entring that sea by the Straits of Magellan, thro' the assistance of God, and his own conduct, tho' not without great change of fortune, he, next to Magellanus, sail'd quite round the world, in two years and ten months time. Whereupon a certain Author has thus complemented him,
But the rest of his exploits, and those of others born here that have flourish'd in marine atchievements, being not within the compass of my design, are left to Historians. Nor have I any thing farther to add here, but that in the reign of William Rufus, Ealphege, The Clergy first restrained from marrying, in England. a learned and a marry'd priest, flourish'd in this place: for before the year 1102. the Clergy were not prohibited to marry here in England. Then Anselm, Archbishop of Canterbury, first introduced this violence to Scripture and humane nature, as our Historians of that age complain; and Henry of Huntingdon expresly of Anselm: He prohibited the Clergy of England to have wives, who before that were not prohibited. Some thought it a matter of great purity, others of great danger; lest affecting cleanness above their power, they should sink into horrible uncleanness, to the great scandal of the Christian name.
More inward, not far from the river Plim, stands Plimpton, Plimpton. a pretty populous market-town, where are still the reliques and deform'd ruins of a castle, of which many held by tenure, or, as our Lawyers call it, in Castle garde. For this was the chief seat of the Red-versies or Riparii (for both are read) who were Barons of Plimpton and Earls of Devonshiree. Next to this stood Plimpton S. Mary, which lost it's glory not long since, when thef College of Prebends there was dissolv'd, which William Warlewast, Bishop of Exeter, had formerly built. More Eastward appears Modbery, Modbery. a small town which belongs to the famous and ancient family of the Campernulphs, who are also call'd2 De Campo Arnulphi, and by the vulgar Champernouns, Champernoun. Knights, who have had much honour by the heir of the Vautorts [f].
From the Plim's mouth, where the South shore of this region begins, the Country goes on with a wide and large front as far asg Stert, a promontory,Stert, [...] in H [...]ghdutch. as the word it self signifies in Saxon; but assoon as the shore winds back again, the river Dert rises, which flowing from the inner part of the County by dirty and mountainous places, thence called Dertmore, Dertm [...]e. where Load-stones have been lately found [g], falls then very steep and strong, (washing away with it the sands from the Stannaries, which by degrees choak up its channel) thro' the forest of Dertmore, where David de Sciredun held lands in Sciredun and Siplegh, Testa Nevilli. for finding two arrows when our Lord the King came to hunt in that forest; and then it runs by Dertinton the Barony heretofore of the Martins (who were Lords of Keims in Wales,) as far as Totness. Dirint [...]. Totne [...]s. This ancient little town, situated from west to east upon the side of a hill, was formerly of great note. It did not geld (according to Domesday) but when Exeter gelded, and then it yielded 40 pence, and was to serve upon any expedition either by land or sea. And Toteness, Barnestaple, and Lidford, serv'd as much as Exeter paid. King John granted them the power of chusing a Mayor for their chief Magistrate; and Edw. 1. endow'd it with many Privileges; and afterwards it was fortify'd with a Castle by the Zouches, as the Inhabitants believe. It was formerly the Estate of Judeal sirnam'd de Totenais, afterwards of William Briwer a very noble Gentleman, by one of whose daughters it came to the Breoses, and from them by a daughter likewise to George de Cantelupo Lord of Abergeuenny, whose sister Melicent being marry'd to Eudo de la Zouche, brought it to the Barons Zouche, and there it continued, till John Baron Zouche being banish d for siding with Richard 3. Henry 7. gave it, as I have heard, to Peter Edgecomb, a man both wise and noble [h]. Just by this town stands Bery-Pomery, denominated from the Pomeries, Pom [...]y. one of the noblest families in these parts; who somewhat more to the eastward had a very neat Castle, a little farther off from the bank. They derive their pedigree from Radulph de Pomery, who in William the Conqueror's time held Wich, Dunwinesdon, Brawerdine, Pudeford, Horewood, Toriland, Helecom, and this Berie, &c. From Totnes, the neighbouring shore was heretofore call'd Totonese: and the British History tells us, that Brutus the founder of the British nation arriv'd here; and Havillanus, as a Poet,In [...] tre [...]. following the same Authority, writes thus:
The river Dert (which I spoke of) being past Totness bridge, where it heaps up sand brought along with it from the Stannaries; sees nothing on each side of it, but fertile grounds, till it draws at last slowly to it's mouth; where, upon a long hill, stands Dertmouth, De [...] which by reason of the commodiousness of the haven, defended by two Castles, is a town of [Page] great resort for merchants and well-built ships. It has a Mayor by the grant of King Edward 3. The Zouches, Nicholas de Teukesbury, and the Brients, according to the change of times, were formerly owners of it; and it hath often stoutly resisted the French. In the year 1404. Monsieur de Castell a Frenchman, who had stopp'd the trade in these parts by his piracies, and had burnt Plimouth, whilst he attack'd this place, was set upon by the peasants and the women, and cut off with his whole party.W [...]l [...]gham. I must not here forget to mention Stoke-Fleming, [...]oke-Fle [...]ng. which is hard by; and taking it's name from a nobleman of Flanders formerly Lord of it, went by a daughter of Mohun to the Carews.
The shore going back from hence, the sea presses in after it, and by that great in-let makes a bay of about 12 miles in circuit, called at this day Torbay, [...]rbay. which is a secure place for ships when the south-west wind blows [i], and has a small village situate upon it of the same name, which was the seat of the Bruers heretofore3, who in Rich. 1. and K. John's time, were men of great note; but afterwards of the Wakes. Near this stands Cockington, [...]y of [...]ing [...]. where the family of the Carys, different from that of the Carews, have long flourish'd in great repute; from which the Barons of Hunsdon (of whom in their proper place) are descendedh. A little higher stands Hacombe, [...]combe. where formerly liv'd Jordan Fitz-Stephens Knight, denominated from this place de Hacombe, by whose daughter Cecil it came to the family of the Archdeacons; from which likewise, by Hugh Courteney, it sell at last to the Carews, [...]e family [...]he Ca [...]s. whose family is very famous in these parts, and very numerous. For Jane the daughter of this Hugh and the heir to her mother, being marry'd to Nicholas Baron Carew had many children; their eldest son Thomas proving somewhat undutiful to his mother, she settled this fair inheritance upon the three younger sons (from whom are descended the three families of Carews, de Hacombe, Anthony and Bery) and upon John Vere her son by a second husband, from whom are the Earls of Oxford.
[...]g [...] [...]th.Hence we come to Teignemouth, a small village upon the mouth of the River Teigne, from which also it takes it's name; where the Danes who were sent before to discover the situation of Britain and the harbours, [...] first [...]ding of [...] Danes. first landed, about the year of Christ 800. and having kill'd the governour of the place, took it for a presage of future victory [k]; which afterwards they pursu'd with the greatest cruelty thro' the whole Island. More inward, near the rise of the Teigne, stands Chegford, [...]egford. where formerly flourish'd the famous family of the Prows: theni Chidley, [...]idley. which gives it's name to the large family of the Chidleys k; and near to the mouth, [...]gn [...] Bishops-Teignton, so call'd because it belong'd to the Bishops; where, upon the account of a sanctuary in it, John de Grandison a Burgundian, Bishop of Exeter, as foreseeing what might happen in after-times, built a very fine house, that his successors (as the words of his Will are) might have where to lay their heads, in case their temporalties were at any time seiz'd into the King's hands. Yet so far was this from answering his design, that his successors are now depriv'd both of this house, and well nigh all the rest.
[...]e river [...]Six miles from hence the River Isca, mention'd by Ptolemy, which the British call Isc, the Saxons Ex, flows from a very large mouth into the Ocean. Whether or no it took this name from Iscaw, which signifies in British Elders, I cannot tell. Some derive it from reeds, which the Britains call Hesk, and with which the northern nations (as the Britains) thatch'd their houses, [...]y. and fasten'd the joynts of their ships. But seeing reeds are not found here, I cannot agree to it. The head of this river lies in Exmore, a filthy barren ground near the Severn-sea; the greatest part whereof is in Somersetshire; where some monuments of antiquity are still seen; namely,Ancient Stones. stones set in the form of a triangle in some places, in others in the form of a circle; and one among them is inscribed with Saxon or rather Danish letters, for directing those, as it seems, that travell'd that road. Ex or Isc flowing from hence first southward by Twifordton, so call'd from the two fords, now at presentl Teverton, Tiverton. to which the woollen trade brings both gain and glory [l]; runs by pretty rich grounds, and is enlarg'd chiefly by two little rivers, Creden from the west, and Columb from the east. Upon Creden, in the times of the ancient Saxon Church, there flourish'd a Bishops-See in a town of the same name, Cridiantun, now contractedly Kirton, where was born thatm Winifrid or Boniface, Winifrid the German Apostle. who converted the Hessians, Thuringers, and Frisians of Germany to the Christian Religion4. Now it is only remarkable for a thin market, and a house of the Bishops of Exeter [m]. But within the memory of our fathers it was much more noted for a College of twelve Prebendaries, who are now dissolv'd. The river Columb which comes from the east, washes Columbton, a small town, that takes it's name from it, which King Alfred by his last Will left to his younger son; and near Poltimore, Poltimore. the seat of the famous and very ancient family of Bampfield, it runs into the river Isc. And now the Isc is grown bigger; but dividing into many streams very convenient for mills, it flows to the City Isca, to which it leaves it's name. Hencen Alexander Necham;
This city is call'd Isca by Ptolemy, by Antoninus Isca Dunmoniorum for Danmoniorum, Isca Danmoniorum. Excester. by others falsly Augusta, as if the second Legion Augusta had quarter'd there: whereas that was garrison'd in the Isca Silurum, as shall be said hereafter. It was nam'd by the Saxonso Exan-ceaster, and Monketon from the monks; now at this day it is called Excester, by the Latins Exonia, by the Welsh Caer-isk, Caer-uth and Pen-caer, that is, a chief city.Caer, what it signifies. For Caer (that I may once for all note it) signifies a City, in British; hence they call Jerusalem, Caer Salem; Paris, Caer Paris; Rome, Caer Ruffayne. So Carthage in the Punick tongue, as Solinus testifies, was call'd Cartheia, that is to say, a new City. Among the Syrians likewise I have heard that Caer signify'd a city; and seeing it is took for granted, that the whole world has been peopl'd by them, it may seem very probable, that they also left their tongue to posterity, as the mother of future languages. This city (as Malmesbury says) tho' the ground about it be wet and filthy, and will scarce bear a crop of bad oats, and often yielding empty ears without grain in them; yet by reason of it's stateliness, the richness of the citizens, and resort of Strangers, all kind of merchandise is so plentiful in it, that one need lack nothing there that is necessary. It stands on the east side of the Isc, upon a hill of easie and gentle rise to the eastward, and falling again to the west; encompass'd with a ditch and very strong walls, having many towers between them. The town is a mile and half in circuit, with suburbs shooting out here and there for a long way: It containsp 15 Parish-Churches, and in the highest part near the East-gate, has a castle call'd Rugemount, formerly the seat of the West-Saxon Kings, afterward of the Earls of Cornwall; which now has nothing to recommend it, but its antiquity and situationq. For it commands the city underneath it, and the country on all sides; and has a very pleasant prospect to the sea. In the east part of the city stands the Cathedral, in the midst of fine houses quite round, built by King Athelstan (as the [Page 31-32] private history of this place witnesses) in honour to S. Peter, and fill'd with Monks: at last the Monks being remov'd to Westminster, Edward 3. grac'd it with the dignity of being an Episcopal See, having transferr'd the Bishopricks of Cornwall and Kirton hither; and made Leofric the Britain first Bishop of it: whose successors have improv'd the Church both by buildings and revenues [n]. 224 And William Bruier, the ninth Bishop after him, in lieu of the displac'd Monks, brought in a Dean and twenty four Prebendaries.Josephus Iscanus. In that age, flourish'd Josephus Iscanus, who owes his birth and name to this place; a Poet of very lively wit, whose pieces were so highly approv'd of, that they met with as much applause even as the ancients. For his poem of the Trojan war ha [...] been twice publish'd in Germany under the title of Cornelius Nepos. Cornelius Nepos.
When Isca first fell under the Roman Jurisdiction, does not plainly appear; I am so far from thinking it conquer'd by Vespasian, as Geoffery of Monmouth asserts, when under Claudius the Emperour, Suetonius tells us he was first shown to the world; that I should think it was hardly then built. Yet in the time of the Antonines it was probably very famous; for Antoninus continues his Itinerary in these parts to this City and no farther. It fell not absolutely under the dominion of the Saxons before the year after their coming into Britain 465.Will. Malm. For then, Athelstan forc'd the Britains, who before that liv'd in the city in equal power with the Saxons, out of it, drove them beyond Tamar, and encompass'd the city with a ditch, a wall of square stone, and bulwarks: since that time, our Kings have granted it many privileges, and among the rest (as we read it in the Book of William the Conqueror) This city did not geld but when London, York, and Winchester did; that was half a mark of silver for a Knight's fee. And in case of an expedition by land or sea, it serv'd after the rate of five hides. It hath also from time to time undergone much misery; once spoil'd by an out-rage of the Danes in the year of our redemption 875, but most dismally by Sueno the Dane, in the year 1003, being betray'd by one Hugh a Norman the governour of the city; when it was laid level from the east to the west-gate: and had scarce begun to recruit, till William the Conqueror laid close siege to it; at which time the Citizens not only shut up their gates against him, but gall'd him with many bitter reflections; however a part of their wall happening to fall down, (which the Historians of that age attribute to the hands of Providence) a surrender soon follow'd; at this time (as it is in the said Survey-book) the King had in this city 300 houses: it paid 15 pounds a year. Eight and forty houses were destroy'd after the King came into England. After this it was press'd by three sieges, yet easily escap'd them all. First by Hugh Courtney Earl of Devonshire in the civil war between the houses of York and Lancaster: again, byr Perkin Warbeck a sham and counterfeit prince, who being a young man, and of mean descent, by pretending to be Richard Duke of York, the second son of K. Edward 4. rais'd a very dangerous war5: thirdly, by the seditious Cornish, in the year 1549. when the citizens, tho' under a most sad want of all sorts of provisions, continu'd loyal, till John Baron Russel rais'd the siege.ſ
But Exeter has not suffer'd so much by these enemies, as by certain heaps (Wears as they call them)t which Edward Courtney Earl of Devonshire, in an out-fall with the citizens, threw into the chanel of the river Isc; which hinders ships from coming to the town, so that all merchandize is brought thither by land from Topesham, a little village three miles from the city. Nor are these heaps remov'd, tho' it is commanded by Act of Parliament [o]. From these, a small village hard by is call'd Weare, Weare. but formerly Heneaton, which belong'd heretofore to Austin de Baa, from whom by right of inheritance it came to John Holand, Ch. 24 E [...] who in a seal that I have seen, bore a lion rampant gardant among flower de luces. The government of this City is administer'd by 24. of whomu one yearly is chosen Mayor, who with four Bayliffs manages all publick affairs. As for the position, the old Oxford-Tables have defin'd it's longitude to be 19 degrees, 11 minutes. It's latitude 50 degrees, 40 minutes.
This City (that I may not omit it) has had it's Dukes. For Richard 2. King of England of that name, made John Holand Earl of Huntingdon and his brother by the mother's side, first Duke of Exeter.Dukes of Exeter. Henry 4. depriv'd him of this honour, and left him only the title of Earl of Huntingdon; which, being beheaded soon after6, he lost together with his life. Some few years after, Henry 5. supply'd this Dukedom with Thomas Beaufort Earl of Dorset, descended from the house of Lancaster, an accomplish'd Souldier. He dying without issue, John Holand, the son of that John already mention'd, (as heir to Richard his brother that dy'd without issue, and to his father,) was restor'd to all again, having his Father's honours bestow'd upon him by the bounty of Henry 6. and left the same to his son Henry, who, whilst the Lancastrians stood, flourish'd in great honour; but after, when the house of York came to the Crown, his example might well shew us how unsafe it is to rely upon the smiles of fortune. For this was that Henry Duke of Exeter, who, notwithstanding his marriage with the sister of Edward 4. was reduc'd to such misery,Phil. Co [...] naeus, c [...] 50. that he was seen to beg his bread ragg'd and bare-footed in the Low-countries. And at last, after Barnet-fight, where he behav'd himself stoutly against Edward 4. he never was seen more, till his body was cast upon the shore of Kent, as if he had been shipwrack'd. Long after this, Exeter had it's Marquess, namely Henry Courtny, descended from Catherine the Daughter of Edward 4. rais'd to that honour by Henry 87. But to this Marquess, as well as to the first Duke, a great fortune did but raise great storms; which as presently sunk him, endeavouring a change of Government. For among other things, because with mony and counsel he had assisted Reginald Poole (that was afterwards Cardinal, and had left England to intriegue with the Emperor and the Pope, against his King and Country, who had then withdrawn from the Romish Communion) he was arraign'd, found guilty, and beheaded with some others. But now by the bounty of K. James, Thomas Cecil Lord Burghley enjoys the title of Earl of Exeter,Earl [...] of Exeter. a man truly good, 1605 and the worthy son of a most excellent father, being the eldest son of William Cecil, Baron Burghley, Lord Treasurer of England, whose wisdom has long supported the peace of this Kingdom [nn].
From hence to the very mouth, there is nothing of antiquity besides Exminster, Exmin [...] formerly Exanminster, bequeath'd by King Alfred to his younger son: and Pouderham, Pouderham. a castle built by Isabel de Ripariis, now for a long time the seat of a very noble family, the Courtnies, Knights; who being descended from the Earls of Devonshire, and related to the best families, are to this day flourishing, and most worthy of such noble ancestors8. Upon the very mouth on the other side, (as the name it self witnesses) stands Exanmouth, Exan [...] known for nothing but it's bare name, and the fisher-hutts there.
More eastward Otterey, Otterey. that is, a river of otters or water-dogs, (which we call Otters,) as the name it self implies, runs into the sea; it passes by Honniton, Honni [...] [Page 33-34] well known to such as travel these parts9 [p]; and gives it's name to some places. Of which the most remarkable above Honniton is Mohuns-ottery, which belong'd formerly to the Mohuns, from whom it came by marriage to the Carews; below Honniton (near Holdcombe, where lives the family of Le Denis, Knights, who take their original and name from the Danes) S. Mary's Ottery, so call'd from thew College of S. Maries, which John de Grandison Bishop of Exeter founded, who had got the wealth of all the Clergy in his Diocese, into his own hands. For he had persuaded them to leave him all they had when they dy'd, as intending to lay it all out in charitable uses, in endowing Churches, and building Hospitals and Colleges; which they say he perform'd very piously.
From the mouth of this Ottery, the shore goes on with many windings, to the eastward by Budly [q], Sidmouth [r], and Seaton [s], formerly fine havens, but now so choak'd with sand heap'd before the mouth of them, by the flux and reflux of the sea, that this benefit is almost quite lost. Now that this Seaton is that Moridunum [...]idunum in Antoninus which is seated between Durnovaria and Isca (if the book be not faulty,) and is lamely call'd Ridunum in the Peutegerian Table; I should conjecture, both from it's distance and the signification of the name. For Moridunum is the same in British, that Seaton is in English, namely, a town upon a hill by the sea. Near this stands Wiscombe, [...]omb. memorable upon the account of William Baron Bonevill who liv'd there; whose heir Cecil brought by marriage the titles of Lord Bonevill and Harrington with a brave estate in those parts, [...]his in County [...]merset. [...]ster. to Thomas Grey Marquess of Dorset.
Under these the river Ax empties it self from a very small chanel10 [t], after it has wash'd Axanminster, a town famous only in ancient histories for the tombs of those Saxon princes who were slain in the bloody battle at Brunaburg, and brought hither: it stands on the very edge of this County. Under this place Reginald Mohun of Dunster, to whom the mannour of Axminster came hereditarily by the fourth daughter of William de Briewr, built the Abbey of Newenham, [...]ham [...]. in the year 1246. From hence the Eastern bounds run crookedly by less noted villages to the Severn-sea; which we will now trace.
The first shore from Cornwall, which for a long way lies upon the Severn-sea, is call'd by Ptolemy Hercules's Promontory. [...]es's [...]to [...]. It keeps something of that name in what we call it at this day, Hertypoint; and hath in it these small towns Herton, and Hertlond, formerly famous for the reliques of Nectan a holy man, to whose honour a small monastery was here built by Githa, [...]nes. Earl Godwin's wife, who particularly esteem'd Nectan, upon a conceit that her husband had escap'd shipwrack by virtue of his merits [u]. Yet afterwards the Dinants, also call'd Dinhams, who came originally from Britaine in Armorica, and held this place, were counted the Founders; from whom descended Baron Dinham, High Treasurer of England in Henry the 7th's time, by whose sisters and heirs this inheritance was divided between Zouche, Fitz-warrin, Carew, and Arundell.
xThe name of this Promontory has given credit to a very formal story, [...]o that Hercules forsooth came into Britain, and kill'd I know not what Giants. Whether that be true, which some Mythologists affirm, that there was no such man as Hercules, but that it is a meer fiction to denote the strength of humane prudence, whereby we subdue our pride, lust, envy, and such like monsters; or by Hercules be meant the Sun, according to the Gentile divinity, and those twelve labours undergone by Hercules be an emblem only of the Zodiack and it's twelve signs, which the sun runs thro' yearly; as to these, let them that have asserted them look to the truth of them. For my part, I willingly believe there was a Hercules, nay, that there were 43 of them, as Varro does; all whose actions were ascrib'd to that one, the son of Al [...] mena. Yet I cannot imagine that ever Hercules came here, unless he was wasted over in that cup which Nereus gave him, whereof Athenaeus makes mention. But you'l object, that Franciscus Philelphus in his Epistles, and Lilius Giraldus in his Hercules, affirm this very thing. With submission, these later writers may move me, but they will not convince me, when Diodorus Siculus, who has writ the history of Greece from the first known ages of it, expresly tells us, that neither Hercules nor Bacchus ever went into Britain. And therefore I take it for granted that the name of Hercules was given to this place, either by some Greeks out of vanity, or some Britains upon a Religious account. These being a warlike nation, had brave men in great admiration; and those in the first place that destroy'd monsters: the Greeks on the other side, dedicated every thing they found any where magnificent to the glory of Hercules; and because he was a great traveller, they who travel'd were wont to offer him sacrifices, and consecrate the places where they arriv'd, to him. Thus comes Hercules's Rock in Campania, Hercules's Haven in Liguria, Hercules's Grove in Germany, and Hercules's Promontories in Mauritania, Galatia, and Britain.
As the shore goes back from this Promontory of Hercules, two rivers, the Towridge and Taw, which are the only rivers in this north-part of the County, fall from one mouth into the sea. The Towridge rising not far from the Promontory of Hercules al [...]eady mention'd, runs towards the east; and receiving the Ocke, which has given name to Ockhampton a little market-town,Doomesday where Baldwin the Viscount had his castle in William the Conqueror's time11, as it appears from Domesday [w]; it turns it's course suddenly towards the north by Tourington, Tourington to which it gives that name, seated on the side of a hill, and lying along for a good way upon it [x], and Bediford Bediford. pretty famous for resort of people, and for an arch'd stone bridge [y]; and then it presently joins the Taw, which rising in the very heart of the County, is first carry'd by Chimligh, Chimligh. a little market town not far from Chettelhampton, Chattelhampton. a little village, where Hierytha, kalendar'd among the She-saints, was bury'd. From thence flowing by Tawton, J. Hooker of the Bishops of Exeter. where Werstan and Putta first Bishops of Devonshire had their See about the year 906; and Tawstoke which stands over against it, now the seat of the most honourable the Earl of Bath,Berstaple. it rushes on to Berstable. This is look'd upon as an ancient town, and for neatness and populousness easily surpasses any town upon this coast; situated between hills in the form of a semicircle upon the river, which makes, as it were, the diameter to it. This river every new and full moon upon a spring-tide overflows the fields to that degree, that the town it self seems a Peninsula: but then, as the Poet says, when the sea withdraws into it self again, 'tis so small, that it can hardly support little vessels, being dilated in an uneven course among the sand. On the south there is a stately bridge built by one Stamford a citizen of London; on the north, near the confluence of the little river North-Ewe, are seen the remains of a castle, which commonly is said to be built by King Athelstan, but some ascribe it to Judael de Totenais. For the defence of it, some lands hereabouts are held in Castle-gard. It had formerly walls quite round, whereof there is hardly the least sign now extant. This Judael de Totenais had it given him upon tenure by King William 1. and after that the Tracies held it a considerable time; next to them the Martins, and after in the reign of Richard 2. it came to [Page 35-36] John Holland Earl of Huntingdon, who was afterwards Duke of Exeter; and last of all to the Crown. But Queen Mary gave this mannour (as our Lawyers call it) to Thomas Marrow; whose son sold it. In the reign of William 1. (as it is in Domesday,) it had forty burgesses within the Burg, and nine without. Henry 1. endow'd it with many privileges, and K. John with more. For a long time, it was govern'd by a Mayor and two Bailiffs; but Queen Mary granted it a Mayor, two Aldermen, and a Common-Council of four and twenty. The inhabitants, for the most part, are merchants, who drive a considerable trade with France and Spain. Nor must I forget to take notice of two very learned men and most famous Divines bred in this School,Joh. Jewell. John Jewel Bishop of Salisbury,Th. Harding. and Thomas Harding Professor in Lovain; who have very hotly, and very nicely writ and engag'd one another in points of Religion.
From hence the Taw passing by Ralegh, which formerly belonged to it's noble lords of the same name, but now to the famous family sirnam'd de Chichester, and after that enlarg'd by the river Towridge, runs into the Severn sea;Kenuith. but finds not Kinuith castle, mention'd by Asserius. Yet there was upon this coast a castle of that name, and so situated, that there was no approaching it on any side but the east: here in the year 879 Hubba the Dane, who had harass'd the English, and cut off many of them, was himself cut off. The place from thenceforward was call'd Hubbestow by our Historians. At the same time the Danish standard, call'd Reafan, was took by the English. Which I the rather observe, because from a story in Asserius Menevensis, who has writ these transactions, it may be gather'd, that the Danes us'd a crow for their standard, which is said to have been wrought in needle-work in their Ensign by the daughters of Lothbroc the Dane, portending them invincible, as they imagin'd.
There is nothing henceforward to be seen on this North shore, besides Ilfarcombe, which is a pretty safe harbour for ships [z]; and Combmarton joyning to it, under which some old lead-mines, not without veins of silver,Combe, what it signifies. Nicotius. have been open'd lately. Now Combe, that I may once for all observe it, which is commonly added to the names of places in these parts, signifies a low situation, or a vale, and perhaps may come from the British word Kum, which has the same meaning, and the F [...]ench retain it in the same sense to this day12 [aa].
More to the south-east from hence, and next to Somersetshire, stands Bampton, Bampton. formerly Baentun, which in William the Conqueror's time fell to Walter de Doway or Duacensis, with very large estates in other parts; of whose posterity, Juliana an heiress marry'd to William Paganell, Paganell or Panell. commonly Paynell, had issue Fulco de Bampton; he had a son William, and Christiana, the wife of Cogan an Irishman, whose posterity came to the estate, the heir of William dying without issue. From the Cogans it went hereditarily to the Bourchiers now Earls of Bath, by Hancford and the Fitz-warins [bb].
Earls of Devonshire.In the beginning of the Norman Government (not to mention Hugh the Norman, whom Queen Emma had formerly made Ruler of this County) King William 1. made one Baldwin hereditary Viscount of Devonshire, and Baron of Okehampton, who was succeeded in this honour of Viscount by his son Richard, who dy'd without issue male. K. Henry 1. afterwards conferr'd upon Richard de Redveriis, first Tiverton, and after that the honour of Plimpton, with other places appertaining to it, and then made him Earl of De vonshire, Ford Abb [...]y Register. granting him the third penny of all the revenues of that County. Now the revenues of that County belonging to the King, did not at the utmost exceed 30 marks; out of which the said Earl was to deduct ten yearly for his own share. After these he obtain'd the Isle of Wight of the said King, and thence was stil'd Earl of Devonshire and Lord of the Isle. He had a son Baldwin, who for siding with Mawd the Empress against Stephen, was banish'd. Yet Richard, the son, recover'd his Father's honour, who left two sons, Baldwin and Richard, in their turns Earls of Devonshire, but dy'd without issue. And then this honour fell to their Uncle William, sirnam'd de Vernon 13. He had a son Baldwin, who dy'd in the life-time of his father, having first, by Margaret the daughter of Guarin Fitz-Gerold, had Baldwin, the third of that name Earl of Devonshire. He had two children, Baldwin, the last Earl of this family, who dy'd without issue, (and chang'd the Gryphon clenching a little beast, which his ancestors us'd in their seal, into a scutcheon or, a lion rampant azure) and Isabel, who was married to William de Fortibus Earl of Albemarle, and had a son Thomas who dy'd young, and Avellina, who was marry'd to Edmund Earl of Lancaster, whom she very much enrich'd. But she soon dying without issue, Hugh Courtney descended (as they write) from the Royal line of France, and related to the former Earls, was by K. Edw. 3. by his letters only, without any other ceremony, created Earl of Devonshire14:Claus. [...] 9 Ed. [...] 35. in [...] For he commanded him to use that title15. He was succeeded by his son Hugh; after him Edward, his grandchild by his son Edward, enjoy'd it; and dying, left it to his son Hugh. He likewise to a son Thomas, who dy'd in the 36 of K. Hen. 6. This Thomas had three sons, Thomas, Henry, and John, whose fortune, during the bloody wars between the houses of York and Lancaster, was much diminish'd, they still resolutely adhering to the Lancastrians. Thomas 16 was beheaded at York; and Henry his brother, who succeeded, underwent the same punishment 7 years after at Salisbury. 9 Ed [...] And altho' K. Edw. 4. created17 Humfrey Stafford Lord Stafford of Suthwick, Earl of Devonshire,18 who dy'd that same year; yet John Courtney, the youngest brother, would never part with this Title, till he lost his life in Tewkesbury-fight. From henceforward this family lay extinct, in a manner, for a long time; yet under Hen. 7. it re-flourish'd; who restor'd Edward Courtney, the next heir male, to the honours of his Ancestors. He had a son William Earl of Devonshire, who marry'd Catharine the daughter of Edw. 4. by whom he had Henry Earl of Devonshire, who was also Marquess of Exeter, and beheaded in Hen. 8.'s time. His son Edward being restor'd to all again by Queen Mary, a noble young gentleman of great hopes, dy'd in his greener years at Padua in Italy: for, to use the words of Quadrigarius, The best men are still the shortest liv'd. In the 46. year after his death, Charles Blunt Lord Montjoye, Vice-Roy of Ireland19 (a man not only of ancient and noble extract, but famous for his conduct and learning,) for having recover'd Ireland, and reduc'd it to its former state, by driving out the Spaniard, and either defeating the rebels, or forcing them to submit,1 [...] was by King James created Earl of Devonshire, advanc'd to many other honours, and by the bounty of the King rais'd to great riches: but envious death soon interrupted his enjoyment of this wealth and honor20.
ADDITIONS to DEVONSHIRE.
AS England draweth nearer the East, it encreases considerably in breadth; Devonshire, the very next County to that narrow horn of Cornwall, being 54 miles broad; and 61 long. It has in it abundance of rivers, more perhaps than any other County in England, and bridges to the number of 166, according to the generall computation.
That the Romans were in possession of this County, appears from the Fosse-way crossing it, and from Roman Coyns digg'd up in several places. As a gold coyn of Nero in Exeter, and another of Theodosius at a place near Barnstaple; several silver coyns also, of Severus and other Emperors; and of brass a great many.
The West-Saxons made it for some time the seat of their Kingdom; and after their removal thence, committed it to the custody of the Earls, which were at that time Officiary.
The Danes mightily infested it, and left behind them, on several high hills, a rude kind of fortification, commonly call'd Danes-castle.
[a] Our Author observes, that 'tis much enrich'd with Tinn-mines; [...]nn-mines and it has certainly in former ages been very considerable for them. An evidence whereof, are the four Stannaries or Jurisdictions, with as many Stannary-Courts and towns of Coynage, viz. Plympton, Tavistoke, Ashburton, and Chagford. By these are chosen from time to time, at the direction of the Lord-Warden, certain Jurates to meet in a general Session of Parliament at Crockern-Torr, a high hill in the midst of Dartmore. This Parliament has power to make Laws touching the state of the Mines and Stannaries, a volume whereof was printed in Q. Elizabeth's time, the Earl of Bedford then Lord-Warden. Now such regular Courts and Proceedings give us an estimate of what great quantities of tinn must have been formerly digg'd up here, the regulation whereof should require so much solemnity. Besides, it expresly appears (as was observ'd in Cornwall) that in K. John's time, Devonshire produc'd greater store of tinn, than that County; the Coynage of this being set to farm for 100 l. yearly, and that only for 100 marks. But now Cornwall has almost the whole trade; and tho' they still work in some parts of this County, it amounts to nothing considerable.
There were formerly in Devonshire, mines also of gold and silver,S [...] l. Pet. [...]d. Reg. as appears from several Grants made by K. Edw. 3. and other Kings, with a reservation of the Tenths to the Church.
Iron-mines have been discover'd too, but for want of fuel, and for some other reasons, they are not yet wrought to perfection. Mineral Chalybiate waters are at Cleave, Tavistoke, Lamerton, Lifton, and other places in this County.
The Devonshire Tinners are not under the Lord-Lieutenant of the County, but form a separate Militia by themselves.
[b] The dearness of the sand (mention'd by Mr. Camden) by which they improve their ground, has, I suppose, in some places put them under a necessity of using marle, [...]me, and the turf of the ground skinn'd off, and burnt to ashes; a method of Agriculture very agreeable to [...]1 George. Virgil's rule,
[c] To go along now with our Author. Lidford, Lidford. he tells us, was formerly a famous town. We find it had in the Conqueror's time 140 Burgesses; and to argue of what importance it was, the custody of the castle here was committed from time to time to persons of the greatest quality. Whatever were the causes of it's decay, the Mayoralty of it is now lost; and whereas it sent Burgesses to Parliament, it was discharg'd from that obligation propter paupertatem, i.e. in consideration of it's poverty.
From Lidford, two or three miles Westward, stands Brent Torr, Brent-Torr. a name signifying a high rocky place. On the top of this high hill is a Parish-Church dedicated to S. Michael a famous sea-mark. And hard, there is a village nam'd the Gubbins, The Gabbins. the inhabitants whereof are by mistake represented by Fuller (in his English Worthies) as a lawless Scythian sort of people.
[d] Farther down the river is Tavistoke, Tavistoke. where the school in which the Saxon tongue was taught, is still in being; and (as I have heard) there was also in the beginning of the late Civil wars, a Saxon-Grammar printed, in Tavistoke. Upon the same design, to preserve that ancient Language, and to promote the Antiquities of our own kingdom, Sir Henry Spelman founded a Saxon-Lecture in Cambridge, which is now come to nothing. And a very learned person still living, had done the same in Oxford for the Northern Languages in general, but that a sudden change of Affairs prevented him.
This place has been lately honour'd by giving the title of Marquess to the Right Honorable William Earl of Bedford, now created Duke of Bedford.
This town has given several great Lawyers to the State; as, Sir John Glanvill a Judge, Serjeant Glanvill his son, and Sir John Maynard, who was lately one of the Commissioners of the Great Seal of England.
Two miles from hence is Lamerton Lamerton. parish, in the Church whereof is an ancient monument of the Tremaines, where may be seen the effigies or Nicholas and Andrew Tremaine, twins, alike in all lineaments, suffer'd like pain tho' at a distance, desir'd to sleep, walk, eat, and drink together, and were slain together at New-haven in France, An. 1663.
Nearer to the sea, is Beare-Ferris, Beare-Ferris. so nam'd from the family call'd De Ferrariis, anciently famous in this County. In this parish there were Silver-mines in the reign of K. Hen. 6. which were lately re-enter'd by Sir John Maynard, but have since been discontinu'd.
[e] From hence the river carries us down to Plimouth, Plimouth. mention'd by our Author as a town lately risen, and a haven well fortify'd. We may add, that it had anciently but one Church, till the 16 of Ch. 1. when a new one was erected, and consecrated in the time of Ch. 2. Here is also a Royal Cittadel built by that King, consisting of five regular Bastions and 165 guns. The guns of the other fortifications added to these, make up in all 253. There are two Docks, begun in 1691. and finish'd in 1693.
As Sir Francis Drake was born here, so both he and Mr. Candish began their voyage from this town for discovery of the unknown parts of the world. By his contrivance and his own proper chargo, there was brought to this town a large stream from a great distance, through many windings and turnings, which is a great benefit to the Town, carrying several Mills, and serving for other common uses of the Inhabitants.
This place has been honour'd since Mr. Camden's time, by giving the title of Earl to Charles Fitz-Charles, natural son of K. Ch. 2. created July 29. in the 27th of that King.
[f] Eastward from hence is Modbery; Modbery. and of the Fortescues of Wimpston in that Parish, was descended Chancellour Fortescue, Author of the famous book De Laudibus Legum Angliae.
Between, Modbery and Kings bridge there is a fair bridge over the river Avon about a quarter of a mile long. At the mouth of the river stands S. Michael's Rock, [Page 39-40] several acres over, in which are to be seen the remains of an old Chappel. This ancient Rhyme seems to refer to it:
Kings-bridge. Kingsbridge is a pretty market town pleasantly situated, and particularly deserves our notice for the benefaction of Mr. Crispin, a late citizen of Exeter, who founded here a Free-school, and endow'd it. Near which is Dodbrooke, Dodbrooke. singular for a custom of paying tithe to the Parson for a certain sort of liquor, call'd White-Ale.
[g] The river Dert first runneth thro' Dertmore, Dertmore. a large Forest, 20 miles long, and 14 broad. It was first made a Forest by K. John, and had anciently in it many tinn-works. It now yields pasture every summer to near 100000 sheep, with a proportionable number of other cattle; and supplies the North, West, and South, with variety of pleasant rivers.
[h] Then to Totnes, Totnes. which in K. Charles the first's time gave the title of Earl to George Lord Carew of Clopton, son of Dr. George Carew, Dean of Windsor.
Torr bay.[i] Directly East-ward, lies Torr-bay, memorable for the landing of the Prince of Orange (now K. William) on the 5th of November, An. 1688. Where we must not pass by Mary-Church, being the first Church founded in this County, according to tradition. Near this bay, is a remarkable well, call'd Lay-well, which ebbs and flows several times in an hour, and bubbles up sometimes like a boiling pot; the water as clear as crystal, very cold in summer, and never freezing in winter, accounted by the neighbours to be medicinal in some fevers.
Farther up in the country is Moreley, Mo [...]ley. remarkable for it's Church built upon this occasion. In the time of Edw. 1. Sir Peter Fishacre Knight (upon a controversie between him and the Parson of Woodley about tythes) kill'd the Parson in a rage; and being constrain'd to answer the same at Rome, was by the Pope condemn'd to build this Church, where he lies bury'd.
From hence towards Dertmore lies Wythicombe, Wythicombe. where in the 14 Car. 1. in a violent storm of thunder and lightning a ball of fire came into the Church in divine Service, kill'd three persons, wounded 62. turn'd the seats upside down, &c. the damages amounting to above 300 l. A like storm hapn'd at Crews Morthard Crews Morthard. in this County, An. 1689. which rent the steeple, melted the bells, lead, and glass; and nothing escap'd but the Communion Plate.
[k] Returning to the shore, we meet with Teignmouth, Teignmouth. which as it formerly suffer'd by the Danes, so was it of late burnt by the French.
[l] North-east from which is the river Ex: upon it stands Tiverton, Tiverton. where Peter Blundell a Clothier built a free-school, and endow'd it with a liberal maintenance for a s [...]hool-master and usher. He gave also two fellowships and as many scholarships to Sidney College in Cambridge, and one fellowship and two scholarships to Baliol College in Oxford, for scholars bred up in this school.
[m] Upon the river Creden lies Kirton, Kirton. now no more famous for the Bishop of Exeter's house, than it was in Camden's time for the College of Prebendaries. For the house together with the mannour was alienated to the Killigrews, so that now there do not remain the least footsteps of the Bishop's having any thing there; except the name of a great meadow, call'd My Lord's Meadow.
[n] The river Ex carries us to Exeter, Exeter. the Cathedral Church whereof our Author observes to have been enlarg'd by several hands. 'Twas for a long time no bigger than our Lady's Chappel. An. 1112. William Warlewast Bishop of Exon. laid the foundation of the present Quire. Two hundred years after, Peter Quivell, Bishop, began the Nave of the present Church, to which John Grandison Bishop, made an Isle on each side. An. 1450. Edmund Lacy, Bishop, built the Chapter-house; and about the same time, the Dean and Chapter built the Cloyster. So that this Church was about 400 years in building: and yet the symmetry of it such, as one might easily imagine it the work of a single man.
The organ of this Church is accounted the largest in England, the greatest pipe being 15 inches diameter, which is two more than that of the celebrated Organ at Ulme.
This city gave birth to Henrietta Maria, youngest daughter to K. Charles 1. to William Petre, [...]ho was Secretary and Privy-Counsellor to K. Henry 8. Edward 6. Queen Mary, and Queen Elizabeth, and seven times Embassadour in foreign parts; and lastly to Sir Thomas Bodley, employ'd by Queen Elizabeth to several foreign Courts, but especially famous for his founding the Publick Library in the University of Oxford, call'd after his own name.
[nn] Thomas the last Earl of Exeter mention'd by our Author was succeeded by William his son and heir; who dying without issue-male,The Ea [...]s continu'd. left that honour to David Cecil, Son of Sir Richard Cecil (who was second son to Thomas Earl of Exeter.) This David was succeeded by John his son and heir, and he by his son of the same name.
[o] At the confluence of Ex and Clist is Topesham, Tophesha [...]. an ancient town that hath flourish'd much by the obstructions of the river Ex. Several attempts have been made to remove these dammes, but none so effectual as the new works in the time of King Charles 2. at the vast expence indeed of the City of Exeter, but to such advantage, that Lighters of the greatest burden come up to the city-key.
On the east of Exeter is a parish call'd Heavy-tree, Heavy-t [...] memorable for the birth of Hooker the judicious Author of the Ecclesiastical Polity, and of that great Civilian Dr. Arthur Duck.
The next parish is Pinhoe, Pinhoe. remarkable for bringing forth the two Rainolds (John and William, brothers) zealous maintainers both of the Reform'd and the Popish Religion in their turns.
Not far from hence is Stoke-Canon, Stoke-C [...] non. given by K. Canute to the Church of Exeter; a representation of which gift was to be seen not long ago in a window of the Parish-Church there, viz. a King with a triple Crown, and this Inscription, Canutus Rex donat hoc Manerium Eccles. Exon.
Four miles east of Exon we pass the river Clyst, near which upon Clyst-heath, Clyst-heath. the Cornish rebels were totally defeated An. 1549. by John Lord Russel, afterwards Earl of Bedford.
[p] Next is Honnyton, Honny [...] where the market was anciently kept on Sundays, as it was also in Exeter, Launceston, and divers other places; till in the reign of K. John they were alter'd to other days.
Over the river Ottery, is Vennyton bridge, Vennyt [...]-bridge. at which in the time of Edw. 6. a battle was fought against the Cornish rebels.
[q] And upon the same river stands Budley, Budley. famous for being the birth-place of that great Statesman and Historian Sir Walter Rawleigh.
[r] From whence to the north east is Sidmouth, Sidmou [...] now one of the chiefest fisher-towns of those parts.
[s] And Seaton, Seaton. where the inhabitants formerly endeavour'd to cut out a haven, and procur'd a Collection under the Great Seal for that purpose; but now there remain no footsteps of that work.
[t] The river Ax passeth by Ford, Ford. to which Abbey the Courtneys were great benefactours; it is now in the hands of Edmund Prideaux Esq Baldwin, Archbishop of Canterbury, in the reign of K. Richard 1. was first Monk, and then Abbot here. Ax empties it self into the sea at Axmouth, Axmo [...] formerly a good harbour for ships. Several attempts have been made to repair this decay'd haven, by the family of the Earles, but all in vain.
[u] Crossing the country to the north-west, we meet with Hartland, Hart [...] the possessions of which Monastery were confirm'd by Richard 1. with the grant of great immunities; particularly of a Court holding plea of all matters, saving life and member, arising in their own lands. In the time of Q. Elizabeth, a Bill was preferr'd in the house of Commons for finishing that port.
Not far from this is Clovelly-harbour,Clo [...] secur'd by a Piere, erected at great charges by the Carys, who [Page 41-42] have had their seats here from the time of Richard 2. 'Tis now the most noted place in those parts for herring-fishing.
At a little distance, lies Hole or South-hold, S [...]th-hold. the native place of Dr. John Moreman, Vicar of Maynhennet in Cornwall towards the latter end of Henry 8. memorable upon this account, that he was the first who taught his Parishioners the Lord's Prayer, Creed, and ten Commandments in the English tongue. By which we learn in how short a time that language has entirely prevail'd against the native Cornish.
[w] Upon the river Ock is Okehampton, [...]kehampton. which as it had formerly 92 Knights fees belonging to it, so it is at present a good market town, incorporated by K. James 1. sends Burgesses to Parliament, and gives the title of Baron to the family of the Mohuns.
More to the north, lies Stamford-Courtney, Stamford-Courtney. where began a great insurrection in the time of K. Edward 6. by two of the inhabitans; one of whom would have no Gentlemen, the other no Justices of Peace.
[x] At a little distance is North-Tawton, North-Tawton. where there is a pit of large circumference, 10 foot deep; out of which sometimes springs up a little brook or bourn, and so continues for many days. 'Tis taken by the common people as a fore-runner of publick sorrow, as that Bourn in Hertfordshire call'd Woobournmore.
Directly towards the north, upon the river Moule, lieth South-moulton, [...]outh- [...]oulton. an ancient town incorporate, formerly call'd Snow-moulton, when it was held by the Martyns, by Sergeanty to find a man with a bow and three arrows to attend the Earl of Gloucester, when he should hunt thereabouts.
[x] From hence to the south-west is Torrington, [...]rrington call'd in old Records Chepan-Torrington, an ancient Borough, which sent Burgesses to Parliament. But that privilege hath been long discontinu'd both here and in other places in this County. It was incorporated by Queen Mary, by the name of Mayor, Aldermen and Burgesses, and hath yielded the title of Earl to George Duke of Albemarle, the great Restorer of K. Charles 2. as after him to Christopher his only son; and since to Arthur Herbert the present Earl, late Lord Admiral.
[y] The river goes next to Bediford, [...]ediford. mention'd by our Author for it's bridge. It is so high, that a ship of 50 or 60 tunn may sail under it. For which, and for number of arches it equals, if not exceeds all others in England. 'Twas begun by Sir Theobald Granvill, and for the finishing of it, the Bishop of the Diocese granted out Indulgences to move the people to more liberal contributions; and accordingly great sums of money were collected. This place hath been in the possession of the Granvills ever since the Conquest; a family famous particularly for Sir Richard Granvill's behaviour in Glamorganshire, in the reign of W. Rufus; and another of the same name under Q. Elizabeth, who with one ship maintain'd a sea-fight for 24 hours against 50 of the Spanish Galeons; and at last yielded upon honourable terms, after his powder was spent, having slain above 1000 of the Spaniards, and sunk 4 of their greatest vessels. This family hath since been honour'd with the titles of Baron of Bediford, Viscount Lansdown, and Earl of Bath.
Upon the sea-coast towards the north, is Braunton, [...]raunton. where many hundred acres of land are overflown by the sands, and the place from them called Santon. Tall Trees, some of 30 foot in length, have been digg'd up here.
[...]art.To a place not far off nam'd Mort, Sir William Tracye, one of the murtherers of Thomas Becket A. B. of Canterbury, retir'd 23 years after the fact; which refutes the vulgar Chronicles, relating that all concern'd in that murder, dy'd miserably within 3 years after.
[z] To the north-east from hence is Ilfarcombe, [...]farcombe. remarkable for the lights here kept for the direction of ships; but much more for Mr. Camden's being Prebendary hereof, which preferment belonging to the Church of Salisbury, might then be enjoy'd by Lay-men.
[aa] Farther up, on the coast lies Comb-Martin, [...]omb- [...]artin. the first branch whereof is observ'd by our Author to flow from the British Kum. The second is added from Martin de Tours a Norman Lord, who had great possessions here in the time of Henry 1. The silver mines were first discover'd here in Edward the first's days, when 337 men were brought from the Peake in Derbyshire to work there. In the reign of K. Edward 3. it yielded that King great profits towards carrying on the French war. After they had been long neglected, they were re-enter'd in Q. Elizabeth's time, who presented a Cup here made to the then Earl of Bathe, with this Inscription:
These silver-mines are again now wrought in with great expectation.
[bb] South-east from hence is Bampton, Bampton. which brought forth John de Bampton in the time of K Henry 6. a Carmelite Monk and a learned man, who first read Aristotle publickly in the University of Cambridge, where he commenc'd Doctor, and writ divers Books.
Continuation of the EARLS.
After the death of Charles Blunt, An. 1606. King James in the 16th year of his reign, created William Lord Cavendish of Hardwick, Earl of Devonshire; whose son and grandchild, both Williams, successively enjoy'd that dignity; and his great grandson of the same name succeeded them, who is now created Marquess of Hartington, and Duke of Devonshire.
More rare Plants growing wild in Devonshire.
Avena nuda Ger. J.B. C. B. Park. Naked Oats or Pillis. This by report is sown in some places of this County, as well as in Cornwall.
C. Alsine spuria pusilla repens, follis Saxifragae aurex. Small round-leaved creeping bastard chickweed. This is no less frequent in this County than in Cornwall, on the like watery banks.
Ascyrum supinum villosum palustre: Marsh round-leaved S. Peter's wort. On moist boggy grounds and about shallow pools of water. See the Synonyma in Cornwall.
C. Campanula Cymbalariae foliis. Ivy-leaved Bell-flower. No less common in this County than in Cornwall, in the like places.
Eryngium vulgare J. B. vulgare & Camerarii C. B. mediterraneum Ger. mediterraneum sive campestre Park. On the rock which you descend to the Ferrey from Plimouth over into Cornwall. This plant, probably, groweth not wild any where in England save here, near Daventry in Northamptonshire, and on the shore call'd Friar-goose near Newcastle upon Tine.
Gramen junceum maritimum exile Plimostii Park. p. 1271. Small sea Rush-grass of Plimouth. Near Plimouth on the wet grounds.
Juncus acutus maritimus capitulis rotundis C. B. acutus maritimus alter Park. Sea-rush with globular heads. Found by Mr. Stephens in Braunton boroughs in this County.
Lichen seu muscus marinus variegatus. Fungus auricularis Caesalpini J.B. Fucus maritimus Gallo-pavonis pennas referens C.B. The Turkeys feather. Found by the same Mr. Stephens on the rocks near Exmouth, plentifully.
Lamium montanum Melissae folio C. B. Melissa Fuchsii Ger. Melissophyllon Fuchsii Park. Melissa adulterina quorundam, amplis foliis, & floribus non grati odoris J.B. Baulm-leaved Archangel, Bastard-Baulm. In many woods in this County, and particularly near Totnes. This is the Plant, I suppose, that the Authors of Phytologia Britannica meant by Melissa Moldavica, which they say grew in Mr. Champernon's wood by his house on the hill side near Totnes. For Melissa Moldavica is a plant so far from growing wild with us, that it continueth not long in gardens self-sown.
Rubia sylvestris Park. sylv. aspera, quae sylvestris Dioscoridis C.B. sylvestris Monspessulana major J.B. nonnullis Rubia hexaphyllos. Wild Madder. It grows on the rocks near the bridge at Bediford, and all along the hedges on both sides the way between Westly and Bediford, and in many other places of this County.
DUROTRIGES.
NEXT to the Danmonii Eastward, Ptolemy in his Geographical Tables has plac'd the [...] as he stiles them in Greek, who in Latin Copies are written Durotriges. The very same people, whom the Britains about the year of our Lord 890. call d Dwr-Gwyr, according to Asserius Menevensis my author, who liv'd at that time, and was a Britain by birth. The Saxons call'd them Dor settan, as we at this day, the County of Dorset and Dorsetshire. The name of Durotriges, which is ancient and purely British, seems very probably to be deriv'd from Dour or Dwr, Dwr, what. which in the British tongue signifies Water, and Trig which signifies an Inhabitant; as if one should say, Dwellers by the Water or Sea-side. Nor can there be any other Etymology of those places names, in ancient Gaul (where formerly the same language with that of Britain was spoken) that begin or end with Dur or Dour, such as Durocases, Durocottorum, Duranius, Dordonia, Durolorum, Doromellum, Divodurum, Breviodurum, Batavodurum, Ganodurum, Octodurum, and many other such, as well in Gaul as Britain. But the Saxon word Dor-setta is partly British,Setta, what. partly English; and of the same importance and signification as Durotriges; for Settan amongst our Ancestors as well as other Germans, did signifie to inhabit or dwell upon. Thus we find the mountaineers call'd in their language Dun-settan; those that dwell upon the Chiltern-hills, Cyltern-settan; and those that border upon the river Arow, Arow-settan; as the Germans call those who dwell among the woods Holt-satten, from inhabiting the Woods. Nor did the Britains lose the sense of the ancient name, when they call'd the Durotriges (of whom I now discourse) Dwr-Gweir, that is, Dwellers on the sea-coast; for their country, for a long way, about 50 miles together, fronts the British Ocean, and lies stretch'd out from East to West, with a very oblique shore, full of turnings and windings.
DORSETSHIRE.
THE County of Dorset is bounded on the North by Somersetshire and Wiltshire, on the West by Devonshire1, on the East by Hantshire, and Southward (which way it extends the farthest,) 'tis all Sea-coast, lying for about 50 miles together, as I said before, upon the British Ocean. But the soil is fruitful, and in the Northern parts of it there are woods and forests scatter'd here and there; whence, with several green hills, that feed great flocks of sheep, pleasant pastures, and fruitful valleys, it comes quite down to the seashore; which I shall keep close to in my description, having no better method to take [a].
At the very entrance into this County from Devonshire, the first place that appears upon the sea-shore is Lyme, Lyme. a little town standing upon a steep hill, so call'd from a rivulet of that name gliding by it, which can scarcely be reputed a sea-port town or haven, tho' it be frequented by fishermen, and hath a kind of an harbour below it, which they call the Cobbe, well secur'd from tempestuous winds, by rocks and lofty trees.
We scarce meet with it's name in ancient books; only I have read, that King Kinwulf, in the year of our Lord 774. gave in these words, the land of one mansion to the Church of Scireburn, near the western banks of the river Lim, and not far from the place where it falls into the sea; so long as for the said Church salt should be boil'd there, for the supplying of various wants [b].
Hard by, the river Carr empties it self; where standsa Carmouth, Carmouth. a little village, where the bold pirating Danes had the good fortune to beat the English in two engagements; first conquering King Egbert in the year of our Lord 831, and then King Aethelwulf, in the eighth year after. Next is Burtport, Burport famous for hemp. or ratherb Birtport, seated between two small rivers which meet there, the soil whereof produceth the best hemp. In this town an hundred and twenty houses were computed in Edward the Confessor's time; but in William the Conqueror's reign (as appears by Domesday-book) there were no more than an hundred. 'Twas heretofore so famous for making ropes and cables for ships, that 'twas provided by a special statute for a set time, that such sort of tackle for the use of the English Navy, should be made no where else. Nor can this maintain the name of a Port, though at the mouth of the river that runs by it, which is enclos'd with hills on both sides, Nature seems purposely to have projected a commodious place for an harbour, as an inducement for Art and Industry to finish it [c].
From hence the shore winding very much, runs out into the sea, wherec an heap of sands thrown up, call'd Chesil, Ches [...]l. with a narrow Sea that runs between it and the shore, continues ford nine miles together; which, whene the south wind rises, gives, and commonly cleaves asunder; but the north wind, on the contrary, binds and consolidates it. By this shelf of sand, Portland, Portland. formerly an Island, is now annex'd to the Continent. For the etymology of it's name we are at a loss, unless it is call'd Portland, because of it's being opposite to the Port call'd Weymouth; but it seems the better conjecture of the two, that it took it's name from one Port, a gallant Saxon, who about the year of our Lord 523. annoy'd this coast. This Portland, towards the decline of the Saxon Government (for no mention is made of it by writers before) suffer'd as often and as much by the Danes as any place whatever. But after that war was at an end, it came to the Church of Winchester. For when Emma, Histor. Winton. the mother of King Edward the Confessor, (having been accus'd of incontinency with Alwin Bishop of Winchester, and her reputation lying at stake) so clear'd her self from the guilt, by passing barefoot over nine red-hot plough-shares, without touching any of them, in the Cathedral Church of Winchester, (which was a common way of tryal in those days, call'df Ordale, Tryal [...] Ordale.) that the miracle of her deliverance prov'd the memorial of her chastity to succeeding generations; she, in memory of it, gave nine farms to that Church: and her son Edward repenting that he had accus'd his mother so wrongfully, laid the whole Island, with other revenues, to it [cc]. 'Tis scarceg seven miles round; a ridge of rocks runs quite about it, which raises it higher than in the middle, where 'tis flat and low: it is here and there inhabited, and has plenty enough of corn, and good feeding for sheep, but very little wood; so that they are forc'd to make use of dry'd cow dung for fewel. The inhabitants are the most famous of all the English for slinging stones; and amongst the sea weeds they often meet with Isidis Plocamon, that is,I [...]di [...] P [...] mon. [...] hair. Isis's hair (as Pliny has it from Juba,) a sort of shrub produc'd [Page]
[Page] [Page] by the sea, not unlike coral; it has no leaves, and when cut it changes colour, growing black and hard, and the least fall breaks it. Towards the East it has one only Churchh, and a few houses adjoyning to one another; and towards the North it has a Castle built by King Hen. 8. commanding the mouth of the port call'd Weymouth, [...]ymouth. which is a little town at the mouth of the small river Wey i, having opposite to it, upon it's other bank, [...]combe. Melcombe, call'd Melcombe Regis, that is, King's Melcombe, parted only by the haven. The privileges of this port were taken away by Act of Parliament,Hen. 6. but recover'd afterwards. These standing formerly upon their distinct Immunities, and rivaling each other, are now united (may it prove to their mutual advantage) by Act of Parliament, having communication one with the other by a Bridge lately made, and being much enlarg'd in buildings2.
From thence the shore lies strait along by the Island Purbeck, [...]beck. (as they call it,) which is full of heath, woods, and forests, well stock'd with Fallowdeer and stags; and containing under ground, here and there, some veins of marble [d]. In the middle of it stood formerly an old Castle call'd Corffe 3, [...] a very ancient ruin, but at last fallen quite to shatters4, which nevertheless is a notable memorial of the spite of Mothers-in-law. [...]-will & ep [...] [...]thers. For Aelfrith (that she might make way for her own son Etheldred to the Throne) when her son-in-law Edward King of England made her a visit here as he came from hunting, set some Ruffians upon him, who slew him; whilst his impious step-mother glutted her eyes with the Scene of his murder. Which impiety she afterwards, by a late repentance, us'd her utmost endeavours to expiate, assuming the habit of a Nun, and building Religious houses [e]. This Purbeck is call'd an Island, though it be but a Peninsula; being every way wash'd by the sea,k but westward; for towards the East, the banks of the sea wind very much inward, which having a strait and narrow inlet or passage, (opposite to which within is an Island withl a blockhouse call'd Brenksey,) widens and expands it self to a bay of a great breadth. To the north of which, in a peninsula hard by, is Poole, a small town, so situated that the waters surround it every way but northward, where 'tis joyn'd to the continent, and has only one gate. It is not unlikely that it took its name from that bay below it, which in a calm seems as it were a standing water, and such as we, in our Language, call a Pool. This, in the last age, was improv'd from a Sedgeplat with a few Fishermens huts, tom a well frequented market-town, and grew very wealthy, being adorn'd with fair buildings [f]. K. Hen. 6. by Act of Parliament transferr'd the franchises of the port of Melcombe, which he had disfranchis'd, to this place; and gave leave to the Mayor to enclose it with walls, which were afterwards begun at the haven by that Rich. 3. who deservedly bears the character of one of the worst of men, and best of Kings. But from that time (by I know not what ill destiny, or rather negligence of the towns-men,) it has been decaying; so that now the houses, for want of inhabitants, are quite out of repair.
[...]e r [...]ver [...]Into the west corner of this bay, Frome, a famous river of this county, dischargeth it self; for so 'tis commonly call'd, tho' the Saxons (as we learn from Asserius) nam'd it Frau, from whence perhaps, because this bay was formerly call'd Fraumouth, latter ages imagin'd that the river was call'd Frome. It has its rise at Evarshot, near the western bounds of the shire, from whence it runs Eastward by Frompton, Frompton. to which it has given it's name, and is joyn'd by a rivulet from the north that flows by Cerne Abby, Cerne Abby. n which was built by Austin the English Apostle, when he had dash'd to pieces the Idol of the Pagan Saxons there, call'd Heil, and had reform'd their superstitious ignorance5. More beneath this, Frau or Frome (call it which you please) dispersing it self, maketh a kind of an Island, and first visits that ancient town which in the Itinerary of Antoninus is call'd Durnovaria, that is, the passage over a river. Dorchester. Ptolemy in some Copies calls it erroneously Durnium, in others Dunium. This is reckon'd the principal town of the county, and yet 'tis neither large nor beautiful, the walls having been pull'd down by the enrag'd Danes, who here and there about the town have thrown up several barrows6. Yet it dayly discovers some visible footsteps of Antiquity; such are, the Roman military or consular way, some brass and silver coins of the Roman Emperors7, which the common people call King Dorn's pence, whom they fondly conceive, in allusion to the name, to have been the founder of this town [g]. And a mile off there is a ditch with a Bulwark on the top of an hill, pretty large in circumference, call'd Maiden-castle Maiden-castle. [h], which one may easily imagine to be the place where the Romans encamp'd in the summer time8. But it suffer'd most when Sueno, through outragious barbarity, renew'd the Danish broils; and when Hugh the Norman, a man of treacherous principles, in whose management were the affairs and government of these parts, gave way to all actions of extravagance. But what sort of place it was, and in what condition, in the beginning of the Norman times, learn, if you please, from Domesday book. In K. Edward's reign there were 170 houses in Dorchester, these defended themselves for all the King's services, and paid geld for ten hides, but to the work of o Huscarls one mark of silver, excepting those customs which Ad firmam noctis. were for one night's entertainment. There were in it two mint-masters. There are now only 82 houses; and 100 have been totally demolish'd since Hugh was Sheriff. If this language be obscure and unintelligible; as Sextus Caecilius said in a case of the like nature, it is not to be imputed to the Writer's want of expression, but the Reader's incapacity, who cannot come up to the sense of the Author.
From hence the river Frome runs by Woodford, Woodford. where formerly Guido de Brient 9, a martial hero, held a small castle, where afterwards dwelt10 Humphrey Stafford of Suthwick p, which by a coheir of his fell (as I have been told) to T. Strangwaies, Strangwaies. a native of Lancashire11, who came to a fair estate in this country; whose issue has built a very fine house at Milbery. From hence it slows by Byndon, call'd by the Saxons Beandun (which likewise had its monastery) where Kinegilse in the year 614, in a doubtful battel, overcame the Britains [i].q Some time since, 'twas the seat of the Lord of Marney: now it gives the honorable title of Viscount12 to Thomas Howard Knight of the Garter, whose father nam'd Thomas (second son of Thomas Howard, the second Duke of Norfolk of that name) Queen Elizabeth created Viscount Howard of Byndon, Byndon. when her by marrying the daughter and heir of Baron Marney, enter'd upon the great estate of the Newboroughs Newborough. in these parts. Those who are nam'd de Novoburgo, commonly call'd Newborough, derive their pedigree from the younger son of Henry Earl of Warwick, the first of the Norman line; and held here Winfrott with the [Page] whole Hundred by the gift of King Henry 1. by service of Chamberlain in chief of our Lord the King, as it is in the Inquisition. But I have read, that in Edward 3's reign,Grand Sergeanty. it was held by Sergeanty, by holding the bason for the King to wash, on his Coronation-day. Ralph Moien likewise held the next mannour of Owres, by service of Sergeanty in the kitchin, by the gift also of King Henry 1.ſ and R. de Welles the mannour of Welles adjoyning, ever since the conquest of England, by the service of being Baker. But this by the by.
Where Frome dischargeth it self into that bay, upon which Poole is seated, about the mouth of it stands Warham, Wa [...]ham. by the Saxons call'd Weareham, very secure on all sides but westward, being every way else surrounded by the river Trent, Frome, and the sea. In Edward the Confessor's time (as it is recorded in Domesday-book) it had 148 houses in it, and two mint-masters; but in William the Conqueror's days, there were but 70 houses computed. Afterwards it reflourish'd, and was in its greatest prosperity, fortify'd, having a mint-office, with walls quite round, being full of inhabitants, and a very strong castle, which was built by William the Conqueror; till Henry 2. came to the Crown13: but from that time, suffering much by wars, and the casualties of fire, together with the sea's robbing them of the haven, it is almost run quite to ruine; and the soil that was in the very heart of the ancient town produceth great quantities of garlick [k]. The little river Trent likewise has it's mouth here, styl'd so by Asser, tho' the inhabitants call it now Piddle; from whose northern bank scarce three miles off, I saw the ruinous walls of an old Abby call'd Middleton, Middleton. which King Athelstan founded by way of atonement, for taking away both his brother Edwin's life and Crown. For when his active and soaring ambition after the government had debauch'd his principle of natural justice, he put the poor youth, who was heir apparent to the Crown, with his little page, into aActuoriola. small skiff without any tackle, and then launched them out to sea, that it might might be charg'd with his guilt. Edwin being helpless and distracted with grief, threw himself headlong into the sea [l]. Beneath this Middleton, another little river rises, which runs by a small market-town call'd Bere, Bere. where for a long time together the ancient and famous family De turbidâ villâ, commonly call'd Turbervill, Turbevil. had their seat14.
But to return to the western parts of the shire. At the rise of Frome where the soil is most fruitful, Blackmore-forest, once well wooded, now more naked, affords very good hunting. This is commonly call'dt The forest of white-hart. Forest of Whitehart. The occasion of it's name the inhabitants have by tradition, that K. Henry 3. having been a hunting here, amongst several Deer he had run down, spar'd the life of a milk-white hart, which afterwards T. de la Linde, a gentleman of this County, with others in his company, took and kill'd; but they were soon made sensible how dangerous it is to provoke a Lyon. For the King being highly incens'd at it, find them severely, and their very Lands which they held, to this day have pay d into the King's Exchequer annually, a pecuniary acknowledgment by way of fine, call'd White-hart-silver. Shirburn, Whitehart-silver. Shirburn. which is likewise call'd Shirburn-castle, borders upon this forest, formerly Scireburn,Fors limpidus. that is by interpretation, a spring of clear water, and, as it is sometimes written, Fons clarus; plac'd on the decline of a hill, and very pleasant (as Malmsbury says) by reason of the multitude of it's inhabitants, and it's delightful situation: 'tis at presentu the most frequented town in this County, it's woollen manufacture turning to the best account. In the year of our Lord 704. an Episcopal See was erected here, and Aldelm was first consecrated Bishop. Afterwards in the reign of King Etheldred, Herman, Bishop of Sunning, being advanc'd to this Bishoprick, transferr'd his Episcopal See hither, and annext the Bishoprick of Sunning to it, which in William the Conqueror's reign he transferr'd to Salisbury, reserving Shirburn to his successors for a retiring place, to whom it now belongs [m]; and one of them named Roger built a fortify'd castle in the Eastern part of it, beneath which was a large marsh, and many fish-ponds, which being fill'd up are converted into fruitful meadows.x But the Cathedral Church, immediately upon the translation of the See, was converted into a monastery, and seems very ancient, tho' not many years ago, iny an uproar between the townsmen and the monks, it was set on fire, plain signs of which appear in the blackness of the stones. Below this, the river Ivell, (of which we shall speak elsewhere) with many turnings and windings, glides on westward to Clifton, Clifto [...] formerly the seat of the family of15 Maulbauch, from which it hereditarily descended to the family of the Horseies, Knightsz; where it enters into Somersetshire.
More to the East, the famous river Stoure, yielding plenty of Tench and Eel particularly, flows on to Stourton, the seat of the Barons of Stourton, Stourto [...] taking it's source from six springs in Wiltshire. Where it first enters into this County, it runs thro' Gillingham-forest,Gilling [...] where Edmund surnam'd Ironside put the Danes to flight in a very remarkable battle; and then visits Shaftsbury three miles off,Shaft [...] seated on the top of a hill16; the Britains call'd it Caer Paladur, as the common people falsly imagine, and Septonia, the Saxons Sceaftes-byryg, perhaps from the Church-spire, which they call'd Scheaft. A little before the Normans came in, it had 104 houses in it, and three mint-masters, as I have read in the Book so often cited by me. It was afterwards more famous for the Nunnery founded by that pious woman Elfgiva, wife to Edmund, King Alfred's nephew's son; and had about ten Parish-Churches. But 'tis most remarkable for the report that our Historians make of one Aquila, The P [...] phecy [...] Aquila. who prophesy'd concerning the change of the British government. Some think it was the bird call'd Aquila, that is, an Eagle; others that 'twas a man of that name who foretold, that the government of Britain, after having been in Saxon and Norman hands, should return at length to the ancient Britains; who likewise would have it older than time it self, altho' 'twas infallibly built by Alfred. For Malmsbury the historian has told us, that there was an ancient stone in his time remov'd out of the ruines of the walls into the Chapter-house, which had this Inscription:
King Alfred built this city in the year of our Lord DCCCLXXX, and the eighth of his reign.
I was the more willing to insert this Inscription for clearing the truth of the matter, because in all the Copies I have seen, 'tis wanting, excepting one, which belongs to the Lord Burghley, High Treasurer of England 17.
From thence the Stoure streaming along by149 Marnhill, (from whence Henry Howard 18 had his title of Baron Howard of Marnhill, Baron H [...] [...]ard of Marnhi [...] Stourm [...] ster. before he was created Earl of Northampton) makes to Stourminster, that is a monastery or minster upon the Stoure, a very mean [Page 49-50] town and lowly seated, to which Newton-castle is joyn'd by a stone bridge, where there is ab mole of earth, which cost no small pains in throwing up; but there is nothing remaining of the Castle, saving the name. There is nothing of greater Antiquity relating to this, than that King Alfred by his Will gave Stourminster to his younger sonc. In the neighbourhood are two pretty high hills at Silleston, the one call'd Hameldon, the other Hodde, both fortify'd with a triple rampire [n]; and not far off (I cannot be particular in the place)d was Ok [...]ford, the chief Barony of Robert the son of Pagan, commonly call'd Fitz-Payne, who marry'd the daughter of Guido de Brient, and was dignify'd with a Barony in these western parts, in Edw. 3. s reign, but for want of heirs male of the family of the Fitz-Paynes, these titles of Barons Fitz-Payne, Barons Fitz-Payne, Barons Brient, Barons Poynings. Brient, and Poynings, coming first to the Poynings Barons of that age, did by a daughter of their family, in the reign of Hen. 6. meet altogether in the Percies Earl of Northumberland [o]. But within the memory of our fathers, by the bounty of Hen. 8. the dignity of Baron Poynings reviv'd in19 Thomas Poynings a souldier, who had many illegitimate children; and with him it presently expir'd20.
From hence the Stoure passing by Brienston, that is, Brientius's town, the seat of the ancient family of the Rogers [p],Blandford. touches at Blandford, a market-town, which having been in our time by accident burnt down, is much improv'd by neat buildings, and a greater number of inhabitants. From thence flowing bye Tarrent, where Richard Poor Bishop of Salisbury sounded a little Nunnery, with a swift current it hastens to that ancient town call'd Vindogladia, Vindogladra. of which Antoninus takes notice; by the Saxons call'd Wynburnham, now commonly Winburne, Winburne. and from it's monastery, Winburnminster; from whence it is just 16 miles to Dorchester, the same number that Antoninus makes between Vindogladia and Durnovaria. I suppose it took it's name from the situation betweenf two rivers, for Windugledy, in the British language, signifies between two swords; now that the Britains call'd their rivers by the name of swords, in a peculiar dialect, is plain from Aberduglediau, (the British name of Milford-haven,) that is, the mouth of two swords, because the two rivers call'd Clediau, that is swords, run into it. The modern name also seems to be taken from rivers; for Winburne is compounded of Vin a piece of the old word,Burn, what among the Saxons. and the Saxon Burne, which in this language signifies a river, and by the addition of that word, they were wont to express the names of places that stood by the water-side. The town it self is seated at the foot of a hill, being large and very well inhabited21. It was of great reputation in the Saxon times, I believe upon no other account, than that it retain'd then some signs of the Roman magnificence.The Saxon Annals. In the year 713. when Cuthberg, sister to Ina King of the West-Saxons, being weary of a marry'd life, procur'd a bill of divorce from her husband the King of the Northumbrians, she founded a Nunnery here, which in time decaying, there was a new Church erected in it's place, with a fair vault under the Choir, and a very high spire [r], besides the steeple. Into this Prehendaries were introduc'd instead of Nuns; where within the memory of our fathers, Reginald Poole was Dean, who afterwards was made a Cardinal, and Archbishop of Canterbury, adding to the quality of his race (for he had royal blood in his veins [s]) the reputation of piety, wisdom, and eloquence. K. Etheldred, one of the best of Princes, the brother of Alfred, who was slain in a battel against the Danes at Wittingham, lies buried in this Church; upon whose tomb, not long since repair'd, this Inscription is to be read.
IN HOC LOCO QUIESCIT CORPVS S. ETHELREDI REGIS WEST-SAXONUM MARTYRIS, QUI ANNO DOMINI DCCCLXXII. XXIII. APRILIS PER MANUS DANORUM PAGANORUM OCCUBUIT. i.e.
Here rests the body of Etheldred King of the West-Saxons, Martyr, who fell by the hands of the Pagan Danes in the year of our Lord DCCCLXXII, the XXIII of April.
Near whom lies bury'd22 Gertrude [t] Marchioness of Exeter, the mother of Edward Courtney, the last Earl of Devonshire of that family; and on the other side of the Choir John de Beaufort Duke of Somerset, with his wife23, whose daughter Margaret Countess of Richmond, Mother of Hen. 7. a Princess of extraordinary piety, founded a school here for the education of youth [u]. But to shift the scene of my discourse from the Church to the Town. When the Danes by foul practices endeavour'd to raise civil discords amongst the English, and had broken the alliance between K. Edw. the elder, and Aethelwald his kinsman; Aethelwald being highly ambitious of the government, and having an inveterate hatred to his Prince, us'd all possible means to fortifie this place. But as soon as Edward drew near with his forces, and had encamp'd at Baddan-byrig, which they now call Badbury, Badbury. he withdrew himself by flight to his Confederates the Danes. Now this Badbury is a hill scarce two miles off, entrench'd with a triple ditch, where stood a Castle (as they say) formerly the seat of the West-Saxon Kings. Which notwithstanding (if ever there was such a one) is so utterly decay'd, that I saw not the least sign of it.
In the neighbourhood I saw Kingston, a little village, call'dg Kingston Lacy, Kingston-Lacy. because it belong'd to the Lacys Earls of Lincoln, together with Winburn, to whom by bargain and sale it came, thro' the hands of Quincie Earl of Winchester, from the Earls of Leicester. For King Henry 1. gave it to Robert Earl of Mellent and Leicester, and at last both places came to the house of Lancaster, of whose signal favours, Winburn (as I have said) was particularly sensible. At some distance from Winburn the Stoure receives a small river call'd Alen, upon which stands S. Giles Winburn, the dwelling-place of the honourable and ancient family ofh Astely, Knights;Ashleys, Knights. and Wickhampton, the patrimonial estate heretofore of the Barons of Maltravers; Maltravers. the last of whom, in the reign of Edw. 3. left two daughters only, one of which was marry'd to John de Arundel, the grandfather of John Earl of Arundel, who left to his heirs the title of Barons of Maltravers; the other was the wife of Robert le Rous, and afterwards of John Keynes Knight. From hence the Stoure flows on by Canford, Canford. below which, not long since, James Baron of Montjoy, who particularly search'd into the nature of metals, began to make Chalcanthum, that is, Coperas, Coperas. as we call it, and boil alum. From hence formerly, John Earl of Warren, forcibly as it were, ravish'd and took away Alice Lacy the wife of Thomas Earl of Lancaster, with much injury to his reputation, and no small damage to England, as appears by our Chronicles. Here the river Stoure leaves Dorsetshire, and running through some parts of Hantshire, disembogues it self into the Ocean, having first receiv'd a little river which flows to Cranborne, Cranborne. a town well watered, where in the year of our Lord 930. Aeilward, a nobleman, sirnam'd Meaw from his fair complexion, founded a little monastery, which Robert Fitz-Haimon a Norman transferr'd to Tewkesbury, leaving a Monk or two here; for to him the possessions of Aeilward sell. From whom, by succession, [Page 51-52] it came by the Clares Earls of Glocester, and Burbs Earls of Ulster,Viscount Cranborne. to Lionel Duke of Clarence, and by him to the Crown.
But now Robert Cecil24 is Viscount of Cranborne, whom King James deservedly, 1604 for his most approv'd wisdom, first dignify'd with the title of Baron Cecil of Essendon, and the year after, with that of Viscount Cranborne 25
Farls and Marquesses of Dorset. The life of Osmund. MS.Touching the Earls and Marquesses of this Shire; William the Conquerour, after he had got the Crown of England,i made Osmund, who was Earl of Seez in Normandy, Bishop of Salisbury first, then Earl of Dorset, and Lord Chancellour, having a great opinion of his wisdom and excellent learning. A long time after,See the Dukes of Somerset. Richard 2. in the 21 year of his reign preferr'd John de Beaufort, the son of John of Gaunt, and Earl of Somerset, to be Marquess of Dorset, from which honour he was afterwards degraded by Hen. 4. out of ill will to Richard 2. And when in full Parliament, the house of Commons (with whom he was much in favour) did earnestly intercede that his dignity of Marquess might be restor'd him, he utterly refus'd to accept it, professing a great aversion to such a novel and upstart title, unknown before those times: and his younger brother Thomas de Beaufort was created Earl of Dorset, who afterwards, for his valour, was by Hen. 5. made Duke of Exeter, and had the County of Harcourt given him. For he gallantly defended Harflew in Normandy against the French, and bravely put to flight the Earl of Armeni [...]c in a pitch'd battel. After his decease without issue, Hen. 6. nominated Edmund of the same house of Lancaster, first Earl, then Marquess of Dorset, and at last Duke of Somerset; whose sons being all taken off in the Civil wars, and the house of Lancaster as it were quite routed, Edw. 4. created Thomas Grey of the family of Ruthin, who was his son-in-law, (for the King marry'd Grey's mother,) Marquess of Dorset, when he came to the great estate of the Bonvils in this County and those adjoyning, in the right of his wife. Thomas his son, and Henry his grandson by the said Thomas, succeeded him, who was created Duke of Suffolk by Edw. 6. upon his marriage with Francis the daughter of Charles Brandon Duke of Suffolk, and neice to King Hen. 8. by his sister. He suffer'd for high-treason in Queen Mary's reign, 1553 and too late experimented of what dangerous consequence. it is to marry into the Royal Family, and to soar too high in ambitious hopes.
From his time the title of Dorset was conferr'd on no one, till K. James, in the beginning of his reign, advanc'd Thomas Sackvill, Baron of Buckhurst, Lord High Treasurer of England, to the Earldom of Dorset, for his most exact diligence and singular wisdom, as an ornamental honour justly due to his true virtue, and the good service he had done his country26
There are in this County 248 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to DORSETSHIRE.
[a] THE County of Dorset, as it is observ'd by our Author to be adorn'd with woods, pastures, and fruitful valleys; so is it principally enrich'd by the sea, which supplies it with great plenty of the best fish, and gives it an opportunity of improving it self by trading. 'Tis very much for the honour of it, that K. Charles 2. declar'd he never saw a finer Country either in England or out of it.
Lime.[b] The Town of Lime seems to have been much improv'd since Mr. Camden's time; for it is now a Burrough, consisting of 16 Capital Burgesses and a Recorder; whereof there is a Mayor and two Justices. The Mayor is the next year after his Mayoralty a Justice of the Peace, and the year following Justice and Coroner. The Peer there, for the nature and largeness of it, hath scarce it's like in England, and requires great cost yearly to maintain it. The place is so much encreas'd, that whereas our Author observes it could hardly be term'd a port on any other account than as frequented by Fishermen, it has now very considerable Merchants in it.
It is remarkable for being the landing place of the unfortunate Duke of Monmo [...]th, June 11. 1685. when he asserted his pretended right to the Crown. He brought with him but one man of War of about 30 guns, and two other small vessels, with Arms for about 4000 men; having not above 100 that came over with him. But notwithstanding the great increase of his Forces in a very short time, he was routed in a pitch'd battel, and his attempt prov'd fa [...]al to him and his Followers.
[c] From hence our Author passes on to Bridport, B [...]dport. which he says seems to want nothing to make it a port, but industry. But it appears by experience that it is not this will do it; for the inhabitants have lately attempted it, and fail'd in the undertaking: the tides perpetually barring it with land, against which they could not find any remedy.
North east from hence is Winford-Eagle, W [...]ford-E [...]g [...]e. [...]r. M n. Brit. MS. near which, in a ground call'd Ferndown, upon the road to Bridport, is a barrow (amongst many others thereabouts) that was search'd and open'd some years ago. Upon the first removing of the earth, they found it full of large flints, and at length came to a place perfectly like an Oven, curiously clay'd round; and in the midst of it a fair Urn full of very firm bones, with a great quantity of black ashes under it. But what is most remarkable, one of the diggers putting his hand into the Oven when first open'd, pull'd it hastily back, not being able to endure the heat; and several others doing the like, affirm'd it to be hot enough to bake bread.Dr. Jorden of Baths, c. 14. p. 106. The same natural heat is often found by our mineral-men in their mines, so as sometimes they are not able to touch them. Digging farther, they met with 16 Urns more, but not in Ovens; and in the middle, one with ears to it: they were all full of sound bones and black ashes.
Not far from hence is Winterborne, Winterborne. Aubr. Mon. Brit. MS. in the parish whereof, within an inclosure near the London-road, there stand certain stones, nine in number, in a circular form. The highest of them is seven foot, the next highest almost six foot; the rest are broken, and now not above a yard high. And upon the same road, half a mile farther, there stand three stones which are four foot high. The stones of both these monuments seem to be petrify'd lumps of flints.
[cc] Descending from hence to the sea-coast, we come to Portland, Portland. which in the year 1632. gave the title of Earl to Richard Lord Weston of Neiland, Lord High Treasurer of England, who was succeeded by several of the same family. It now gives that title to William Bentinck. After the donation of Edward, mention'd by our Author, this Island continu'd in the Church of Winchester to the time of Edw. 1. in whose reign Gilbert de Clare Earl of Hertford and Glocester (probably looking upon it as an impregnable place) gave other lands to the Church in exchange for it; through whose heirs it came to the Crown in Edw. 4. where it still continues.
[d] Upon the south-east-part of this County lies the Isle of Purbeck, Purbec [...]. the south part whereof is very [Page 53-54] good land. It has plenty of marble, and of many sorts of good stone, (from which, as tradition informs us, the Cathedral Church of Salisbury was supply'd,) and they, to their great advantage, carry much of it to London.
[e] The most considerable piece of Antiquity in it, [...]orffe- [...]e. is Corffe Castle; the foundation whereof is not distinctly clear'd by any history; though there are some circumstances that would justifie at least a conjecture of it's being built by K. Edgar. For by an Inquisition taken 54 Hen. 3. concerning the Abbess of Shaftsbury's claim of Wreck in her mannour of Kingston in Purbeck, it is thus mention'd; Juratores dicunt quod ante fundationem Castri de Corffe, Abbatissa & Moniales S. Edwardi de Shaston habuerunt wreccum maris quod evenire consuevit in manerio suo de Kingston sine contradictione. Now the Nunnery of Shaston was founded An. 941. by K. Edmund, after which time the castle must have been built; and 'tis probable, was not done in either of the two succeeding Reigns, which were but short; till Edgar (the peaceable, the rich, and the great builder too, for he founded and repair'd 47 Monasteries) came to the Crown.
After the strength and safety of the Realm began to consist in Castles, this was one of the most principal, belonging to the Crown; and in the 42 Hen. 3. when Simon Montfort had took that King prisoner, it was the third Castle requir'd to be deliver'd up to that party; and was afterwards by Mortimer look'd upon as the fittest place wherein to secure his prisoner Edw. 2. It was repair'd by K. Hen. 7. and in the late Civil Wars was a garrison for the King, and defended by the owner of it, Lord Chief Justice Banks: nor did it come into the Enemies hand, but by the treachery of one, who pretending to have brought relief, let in the besiegers.
The town is one of the nine burroughs of the County, that send Burgesses to Parliament; and what is remarkable, the principal members of it, (especially as many of them as have born the Office of Mayor) are call'd Barons; as the Chief citizens of London anciently were, and the governing part of all the Cinque-ports still are.
In the Island there is one family (Clavil) recorded in Domesday-book to have been here in the time of the Conqueror.
[f] To the north lies Poole, which our Author says, in the last Age arose out of a few Fishermens houses. Notwithstanding, it seems to be a town of good note and antiquity, though no mention be made of it in Domesday. For it appears by Records, that in the 2 Edw. 2. the Free Burgesses of Poole (Thomas Plantagenet Earl of Lancaster being then Lord in right of his wife) paid to the said Lord the sum of 8 l. 13 s. (equal to about 80 l. now) for the farm of their Liberties; and in 14 Edw. 3. they sent Burgesses to Parliament.
[g] Upon the river Frome lies Dorchester, [...]hester. a pretty large town, with very wide streets, and delicately situated on a rising ground, opening at the south and west-ends, into sweet fields and spacious downs. It is a Corporation, formerly govern'd by two Bailiffs and Burgesses, but was in the 5 Ch. 1. incorporated a-new by the name of Mayor, Bailiffs, Aldermen, and Burgesses; with an enlargement of Privileges, Franchises, and Immunities. In the 29 Hen. 8. it contain'd 349 houses.
In the time of the Romans it was one of the two winter Stations of their Legions, mention'd in those parts; Vindogladia (now Winburne) being the other.
[...].[h] So Maiden-castle is observ'd by our Author to have been a summer Station; and such as have curiously view'd the place, have likewise trac'd out the particular uses of each part: as, the western part of it facing the Praetorium, to have been for the foot, and it could not contain less than three Legions, i.e. about 18000 Soldiers: the east part behind the Praetorium, to have been for the Horse and Carriages: and between both on each side of the Praetorium were the Tribunes and other Officers seated.
On the south side of this work is a place seemingly the mouth of a hollow cave, which some nice Observers will have to be an artificial thing; but for what use it should be contriv'd, is altogether uncertain.
[i] From hence the Frome goes to Bindon, Bindon. where our Author observes that Kinegils beat the Britains. But the analogy between the old and new name does hardly hold good. For I find it in all the Copies of the ancient Saxon Annals to be writ Beamdune, and not as Mr. Camden has it, Beandun. I see no reason why this Action may not very well be remov'd to Bampton, upon the borders between Somersetshire and Devonshire. The march of the Britains, and all other circumstances, do no less agree to this; and the old name does much better suit it, it being usual for after-ages to add the (p) after (m) to strengthen (as it were) the pronunciation. Unless perhaps one should suppose that those works upon a hill south of Bindon, namely a double form'd camp, have been done by one of these two People.
[k] Near the place where the Frome emptieth it self into the bay, stands Warham, Warham. fortified on the east and west sides by earthen walls, thick and high, besides the advantage of the rivers. 'Tis probable enough, that this arose out of the ruins of a little poor place call'd Stowborough, (in the same manner as the present Salisbury has risen out of the ruins of the old,) for Stowborough, tho' but a mean place, is still govern'd by a Mayor; which plainly shews, that it has formerly been much more considerable: and the natural strength of Warham, among other things, might invite them in those troublesome times to remove thither. At present there are not the least remains of the Castle mention'd by our Author; only the ground upon which it was built, is call'd Castle-hill.
An argument of it's once flourishing condition, is the number of its Churches, which they reckon were in all 8. Now there are only three us'd, the rest being become sine-cures. The east part also of the town, and much of the west, is now turn'd to gardens; but the principal streets remain still.
[l] About 3 miles north of the Piddle, is Midleton, Midleton. now call'd Melton-Abby; the greatest part of it is still standing, as having been the seat of the Tregonwells ever since the time of the Dissolution; from whom it is newly come (by the marriage of the daughter and heir of John Tregonwell) to the Luterells of Dunster-castle.
[m] North-west from hence is Shirburne, Shirburne. which our Author tells us is a retiring place of the Bishops of Salisbury. But since the Reformation (all the old Bishopricks having been cruelly lopp'd) Salisbury has lost this (the chief rents only reserv'd) to the Crown. The main end it has been put to, is, to gratifie great Favourites; none of whom having long enjoy'd it, the world has took occasion from this and other like instances to make a remark, that Church-lands will not stick by Lay-owners.
East of the river Stoure, stands Shaftsbury, Shaftsbury. which in the year 1672. gave the title of Earl to Anthony Ashley, in the same year made Lord Chancellor of England; whose son of the same name now enjoys that honour.
[n] Going along with the river Stoure, we come to the place our Author names Silleston, at present call'd Shillingston; Shillingston and more anciently Aukford Eskilling, as having been the possession of the Family of Eskilling. The latter of the two hills he mentions, is only fortify'd with a single rampire, and may seem to have been a Camp, where the enemies to the more settl'd garrison in Hameldon, lodg'd. By whom it was cast up, is hard to determine; however, we may more safely conclude it to have been a work of the Danes, than of the Romans, both because of it's irregularity, and its being omitted by Antoninus.
[o] A mile south from hence is Auckford, Auckford. by the common people corruptly call'd Fipenny Okford, because it belong'd once to the Fitz-paines. In the reign of King Stephen, or before, it was the inheritance of the great Family of de Lincolnia (call'd by the French de Nichol,) and Alured being an usual name in that family, it was sometimes nam'd Auckford Alured (as 9 Edw. 1.) and sometimes Auckford Nichol (as in the 10 Edw. 1.) when the Lord thereof procur'd it a Fair and Market. The difference and [Page 55-56] reason of the name is the more worth our observation, because it secures us against running into an error obvious enough, viz. that these might be distinct places.
[p] Returning to the river, we meet with Brienston, Brienston. the seat (as our Author observes) of the Rogers. In which family it continu'd, till lately Sir William Portman purchas'd it, who has left it to Henry Portman, his adopted heir; and he, by buildings and otherwise, has much adorn'd and improv'd it. This was held in Grand Sergeanty by a pretty odd jocular tenure; viz. By finding a man to go before the King's army for forty days when he should make war in Scotland (some Records say in Wales,) bare headed and bare-footed, in his Shirt and Linnen-drawers, holding in one hand a bow without a string, in the other an arrow without feathers.
[q] Hard by is Blandford, Blandford. an ancient burrough, and which 22 Edw. 3. and 33 Edw. 3. sent Burgesses to Parliament. In the 34 Edw. 1. Henry Lacy Lord of the mannour of Kingston Lacy, had divers Burgesses in it, belonging to that mannour, paying in all 40 s. a year rent.
[r] Upon the same river is Winburne, Winburne. whose high steeple mention'd by Mr. Camden, is since fallen; and nothing remains of it but only a fine tower upon which it stood.
[s] Cardinal Poole (who was Dean here) was of the Royal blood, by being son to Margaret Poole, Countess of Salisbury, and daughter to George Duke of Clarence brother to King Edward 4.
[t] The School built here by Margaret Countess of Richmond, is beholden since to a greater Benefactress Queen Elizabeth, who considerably improv'd it.
[u] Next is Badbury, Badbury. from whence the Castle mention'd by our Author, which depends merely upon tradition, may very well be remov'd, and a Station settl'd in it's place. For 'tis probable enough that this was a summer Station of a Legion, or part of a Legion, which might have their winter Station at Winburne. But however this be, that it belong'd to the Romans is evident from their coins found there; where also a Roman Sword and divers Urns have been lately digg'd up. And what puts it beyond all dispute is, a Fosse-way beginning there, which leads to Sorbiodunum or old Salisbury.
Continuation of the EARLS.
Thomas, the last Earl mention'd by our Author, dying of an Apoplexy, April 19. 1608. was succeeded by Robert his son and heir, whose second son Richard succeeded his father, Thomas the eldest son dying before his father, and unmarry'd. This Richard dying without issue, his younger brother Sir Edward Sackvil succeeded him in his honours, who was, first Lord Chamberlain to Queen Mary wife of King Charles 1. and afterwards bore the same Office to that King. His son Richard was next Earl, and was succeeded by Charles his son by the Lady Frances, daughter to Leonel Earl of Middlesex, and at length heir to James Earl of Middlesex her brother; upon which account the said Charles was created Earl of Middlesex by Letters Patents bearing date April 14. 27 Car. 2.
More rare Plants growing wild in Dorsetshire.
Calamogrostis five Gramen tomentosum Park. Gramen tomentosum, Calamograstis quorundam, & vulgi Gramen plumosum Lob. Belg. Gr. arundinaceum paniculâ molli spadicea majus C. B. The soft or woolly Reedgrass. This groweth in the borders of dry fields in many Countries of this Kingdom, especially in Dorsetshire Park. p. 1182. I am suspicious, there will be no such grass found in this or any other County of England: neither am I satisfied what sort of Grass Lobel meant by this title. See his description of his own translation out of his Dutch Herbal, in Parkinson.
Carduus stellatus luteus foliis Cyani C. B. Solstitialis G. R. Spina Solstitialis J. B. Cardui stellati varietas, jacea lutea clusii Lob. S. Barnaby's Thistle. By the hedges not far from Cirencester in Glocestershire. Mr. Bobert.
Cyperus longus Ger. longus odoratus Park. odoratus radice longa, seu Cyperus Officinarum C. B. paniculâ sparsa speciosa J. B. The ordinary sweet Cyperus grass or English Galingale. Found by Mr. Newton in the Isle of Purbeck, Dorsetshire.
Gale frutex odoratus Septentrionalium, Elaeagnus Cordi J. B. Myrtus Brabantica, five Elaeagnus Cordi Ger. Rhus myrtifolia Belgica C. B. Sylvestris five Myrtus Brabantica vel Anglica C. B. Gaule, sweet Willow or Dutch Myrtle. In a low level marsh ground near Wareham in this County, plentifully.
Malva arborea marina nostras Park. English Sea Tree-mallow. About the cottages of the Village called Chissell in Portland Island.
Sedum Portlandicum Ad. Lob. majus marinum Anglicum Park. Portland Sengreen. Lobel writing so ambiguously of this plant, and we having not seen nor heard of it at Portland; I should not have thought it worth mentioning, but that I find it in some Catalogues of Gardens.
Vermicularis frutex minor Ger. fruticosa altera Park. Sedum minus fructicosum C. B. An Cali species seu Vermicularis marina arborescens J. B. Shrub-Stonecrop, or rather Glasswort. On the stone batch running from the shore of Dorsetshire almost to Portland Island.
BELGAE.
TOWARDS the North and East, the Belgae border'd upon the Durotriges; who probably both from the name, and other good authority, came from among the Belgae a people of Gaule, into Britain. For the Belgae (as Caesar learn'd of the Rhemi) were descended from the Germans, and formerly passing over the Rhine, were induc'd by the fruitfulness of the place to settle there, after they had expell'd the Gauls. From whence (as the same Author has it) they pass'd over into Britain, with no other design than to plunder and ravage; and were all call'd by the names of those cities where they had been born, and to which they belong'd before they came thither; here making war upon the inhabitants, they settl'd and began to cultivate the ground. It does not precisely appear at what time they came over; unless possibly Divitiacus, King of the Suessiones, who flourish'd before Caesar, might transplant the Belgae into those parts. For he had the government of a great part, as of Gaule, so also of Britaine. Neither is it yet clear'd, from whence the name of Belgae should come. Hubert Thomas Leodius. of Leige, a very learned man, was of opinion that Belgae is a German word, because the Germans call the Gauls and Italians Wallen, and some of them term them Welgen. John Goropius a Belgian, will have it come from the Belgick word Belke, signifying in that language Anger, as if they were more prone to anger than others. But since the name of Belgae does not seem to be deriv'd from that language, us'd at this day by the Low-Dutch, which is almost the same with our English-Saxon (for it came from the Saxons, which Charles the Great transplanted into Brabant and Flanders;) I am inclin'd to favour the opinion of those men, who fetch it from the old Gaulish tongue, (which our Welsh do still in a great measure keep entire) and will have the Belgae so nam'd from Pel, with them signifying remote. For they were the remotest of all Gaule; and as they were at the greatest distance from the Roman Province, with respect to their situation, so also to their breeding and humanity. And the Poet has told us that the Morini, a people of Gallia Belgica, were the most remote, when he calls them, Extremi hominum, the furthest part of mankind. But now let us come to our Belgae, whose territories were very large, viz. Somersetshire, Wiltshire, and the inner part of Hamshire [A].
SOMERSETSHIRE.
THE County of Somerset, commonly call'd Somersetshire, is a large and plentiful country. On the north the Severn-sea beats upon it, on the west it bounds upon Devonshire, on the south upon Dorsetshire, on the east upon Wiltshire, and part of Glocestershire. The soil is very rich, especially for grain and pasturage1; 'tis very populous, and tolerably well furnish'd with havens. Some think that this name was first given it, because the air is gentle, and as it were a summer-air in those parts; in which sense the Britains at this day call it Glad arhaf, translating the word out of our language. But the truth is, as in summer time it may really be term'd a summer-country, so no less may it in the winter-season be call'd a winter-country: so wet, moist, and marshy is it for the most part; which creates a great deal of trouble to travellers. However, I shall not scruple to believe that this name was certainly given it from Somerton, formerly the chief town of the County, since Asser, a very ancient Author, calls it every where, the County of Somertun [a]2.
Upon the Severn sea (where this County borders upon the Danmonii) the two first places we meet with are Porlock, [...]ck. [...]. in Saxon Portlocan, and Watchet, formerly Wecedpoort; two harbours, which in the year 886. suffer'd very much from the fury of the Danes [b]. [...]or. Between these two, lies Dunstor-castle, in a low ground, every way shut up with hills, except on that side which faces the sea. It was built by the Moions or Mohuns, [...]amily [...]e Mo [...] or [...]ns. from which it came by bargain to the Luterells. This family of the Mohuns was for a long time very famous and powerful; and flourish'd from the time of William the Conqueror (under whom the Castle was built) to the reign of Richard 2. Out of it were two Earls of this County, William, and Reginald who was depriv'd of that honour in the Barons war. From that time their posterity were accounted Barons, the last whereof John left three daughters, Philippa wife of Edward Duke of York, Elizabeth marry'd to William de Monte-acuto or Montacute, second Earl of Salisbury of that name, and Mawd to the Lord Lestrange of Knokyn. The mother of these (as the story goes) obtain'd of her husband under this town so much ground for aCompascuus ager. Common to the inhabitants, as she could go about barefoot in one day.
Near this castle are two small villages, dedicated to two of their Country-Saints: Carenton is the name of the one, from Carentocus the Britain; the other S. Decombes, from Decumanus, S. Decumanus. who setting sail out of South-Wales landed here (as we find it in an ancient Agonal) in a horrid desert full of shrubs and briers, the woods thick and close stretched out a vast way both in length and breadth, strutting up with lofty mountains, sever'd wonderfully by the hollow vallies. Here bidding farewell to the world, he was stab'd by an Assassin, and so got the reputation of a Saint among the common people3. Stoke-Curcy, Family of the Curcies. a Barony so nam'd from the Lords of it, lies at a little distance from the sea, the seat of William de Curcy, Butler to K. Henry 1. Of which family was that John de Curcy John de Curcy. who took Ulster in Ireland, a man design'd by nature to be great and honourable, endu'd with a height of soul, and a sort of majesty; whose signal courage must be understood from the Irish Antiquities. From thence to the Stertpoint the shore shoots out by little and little, where two of the largest rivers in the whole county meeting together, empty themselves at one mouth, call'd by Ptolemy the aestuary of Uzella, The aestuary of Uzella. from the river Ivell, which throws off that name before it comes here. It rises in Dorsetshire, and at it's first coming into Somersetshire, gives it's name to a well-frequented markettown call'd Evell 4, and receives a little river, upon which is Camalet, Camalet. a a steep mountain, of a very difficult ascent, in the top whereof are the plain footsteps of a decay'd Camp, and a triple rampire of earth cast up, including 20 acres5. The inhabitants [Page 59-60] call it Arthur's palace; but that it was really a work of the Romans is plain from the Roman Coins daily digg'd up there [c]. What they might call it, I am altogether ignorant, unless it be that Caer Calemion we meet with in Ninnius's Catalogue, by a transposition of letters for Camelion 5. Cadbury Cadbury. the adjoining little village, may by a conjecture probable enough be thought that Cathbregion, where Arthur (as Ninnius has it) routed the Saxons in a memorable engagement. Another town of the same name, North-Cadbury, was given by K. Henry 3. tob Nicholas de Moeles, Moeles., who had marry'd Hawisia one of the heiresses of James de Novo mercatu, or New-market. This man's posterity liv'd a long time in great splendour, till John, in Edward 3.'s time, dying, lest only issue 2 daughters, Muriela, and Isabel; this marry'd to William Botereaux [d], and the other to Thomas Courtney 6.
From hence the river Jvel runs to Ischalis, Ischalis. mention'd by Antoninus, now Jvelcester, Jvelchester. call'd (if I mistake nor) in Ninnius's Catalogue Pontavel-coit, for Pont Jvel Coit, i.e. a bridge over the Jvel in a wood; and by Florence of Worcester, Givelcester. It is now famous for nothing but the market, and its antiquity; for now and then they dig up Coins of the Roman Emperours, of gold, brass, and silver. That it was formerlybb large, and encompass'd with a double wall, is evident from the ruines7: about the coming in of the Normans it was a populous place, having in it a hundred and seven Burgesses. And at that time it was a place of strength, and well fortify'd; for in the year of Christ 1088. when the Nobility of England had form'd a wicked plot, designing to depose William Rufus, in order to advance Robert his Brother Duke of Normandy to the throne, Robert Moubray a warlike man, after he had burnt Bathe, vigorously assaulted this place, but all in vain. However, time has done what he could not compass, and has at last as it were storm'd it.
A little more inward8, the confluence of Jvel and Pedred form a river-Island call'd Muchelney, Michelney. i.e. the large Island, wherein are something of the walls of an old Monastery, which Historians tell us was built by King Athelstan.Pedred riv. Pedred, commonly Parret, rises in the very south-bound of the County, and with a winding channel runs by Crockherne, in Saxon Cruc [...]rne; and by Pedderton, Pedderton. to which it gave the name, formerly Pedridan, the palace of King Ina, now famous only for a market and Fair, procur'd of Henry 6. by Henry Daubeney: then the Parret runs into the Jvel, and robs it of it's name. Three miles hence towards the East,Montacute in Domesday Montagud. it salutes Montacute, so call'd by the Earl of Moriton, brother by the mother's side to William 1. († who built a castle at the very top of the hill, and a Religious house at the bottom of it,) because it rises by degrees into a sharp point; whereas before that it was nam'd* Logoresburg and Bischopeston. Annals of Glassenbury. But the castle has been quite destroy'd these many years, and the stones carry'd off to build the Religious house and other things. Afterwards on the very top of the hill was a Chappel made, and consecrated to S. Michael; the arch and roof curiously built of hard stone, and the ascent to it is round the mountain up stone-stairs, for near half a mile. Now the Monastery and Chappel are both demolish'd, and the greatest ornament it has is a delicate house, which the worthyc Sir Edward Philips Knight, Serjeant at Law, lately built at the foot of the mountain.Lords of Montacute. This place gave name to the honourable family of the Montacutes, descended from Drogo Juvene. the Young. Of this family there were four Earls of Salisbury; the last left issue one only daughter, which had by Richard Nevil the famous Richard Earl of Warwick, thatturb [...] Whirlwind of England, and John Marquess of Montacute, both kill'd in the battle of Barnet, in the year 1472. But the title of Baron Montacute was conferr'd upon Henry Poole, (Son of Margaret, daughter of George Duke of Clarence, descended from a daughter of that Richard Nevil Earl of Warwick) by King Henry 8. who presently after beheaded him. Queen Mary bestow'd the title and honour of Viscount Montacute upon Anthony Brown, whose grandmother was daughter of John Nevil Marquess of Montacute d; and his grandchild by a son now enjoys it9.
Next to this is Odcombe, Odcom [...] which tho' but a very small town, must not yet be omitted, because it has had it's Baron,Barons William de Briewer, B [...]iew [...]r. (for so his father was call'd, as being bornIn e [...] in a heath;) who10 having great interest at Court, being also an entire Favourite of Richard 1. was respected and caressed by all; and so got a very large estate11, with which by the marriage of his daughters (for his son dy'd without issue) he made a great accession to the estates of the Brees, Wakes, Mohuns, La-ferts, and Pereys. Below this at a little distance, is Stoke under Hamden, where the Gornays had their castle, and built a College. This family surnam'd de Gornaico, and commonly Gornay, was very ancient and illustrious, descended from the same stock with the Warrens Earls of Surrey, and the Mortimers. But in the last age it was extinct, and part of that estate came by the Hamptons to the Knightly family of the Newtons, Newto [...] who freely own themselves to be of Welsh extraction; and not long ago to have been call'd Caradocks. Nor must we forget to mention, that Matthew Gornay was bury'd here, a stout souldier in the time of Edward 3. and dy'd in the 96th year of his age, after he had been (dd as the Inscription witnesseth) at the siege of D'algizer against the Saracens, at the battles of Benamazin, Sclusa, Cressia, Ingines, Poictiers; and Nazaran in Spain.
Next, the Parret waters Martock, a little markettown, which formerly William of Bologne son to king Stephen, gave to Faramusius of Bologne, Far [...]mo [...] of B [...]lo [...] Fie [...]es. whose only daughter and heir Sibill, was marry'd to Ingelram de Fienes, and from them are descended the Fienes Barons of Dacre, and the Barons of Say and Zele.
From hence the Parret cuts it's way into the north through a muddy plain, by Langport, a market-town pretty well frequented: and by Aulre Aulre. a little village of a few small hurts; which yet seems once to have been a town of better note. For when Alfred had so shatter'd the Danes, and by a siege forc'd them to surrender, that they took an Oath to depart out of his dominions with all expedition, ande Godrus their King (as Asser tells us) promis'd to embrace Christianity; then Alfred in this place took him out of the sacred font of Regeneration with great pomp.
The Parret running from hence receives the river Thone, which rising at a great distance in the western part of the County, next Devonshire, passes through delicate fields12 to Wellington, Wellin [...] which in the time of Edward the Elder was the ground of six Mansion-houses, at what time he gave this along with Lediard, Ledia [...] which was of twelve Mansion-houses, to the Bishop of Shirbourn. It is now a little market-town, receiving it's greatest glory from an honourable Inhabitant (for persons eminent for virtue and their good services to their country deserve always to be mention'd)13 John Popham, J. Poph [...] memorable as for the antiquity of his noble descent, so for his strict justice and singular industry. [Page] This man, now Lord Chief Justice of the King's Bench, administers Justice with so much evenness, and such a temper'd severity, that England has for this long time been mostly indebted to him for it's domestick peace and security.
Going from hence with a gentle and easie course, the Thone washes Thonton or Taunton, [...]. and gives it that name. It is a neat town, delicately seated, and in short, one of the eyes of this County. Here Ina King of the West-Saxons built a castle, which Desburgia his wife levell'd with the ground, after she had driven Eadbricth King of the East-Saxons out of it, who had got possession, and us'd it as a curb to a conquer'd nation. In the reign of Edward the Confessor, it gelded (so it is in Domesday-book) for 54 hides, had 63 Burgers, and was held by the Bishop of Winchester, whose Pleadings were here kept thrice a year. Those Customs belong to Taunton; Burgheriste, robbers, breach of the peace, hannifare, pence of the hundred, and f S. Peters pence, to hold thrice a year the Bishops pleadings without admonition, to go into the army with the Bishops men. The country all about is beautify'd with green meadows, abounds in delightful orchards, which, with the thickness of the villages, does wonderfully charm the eyes of the Spectators. Amongst the villages, those of most note are, Orchard, which had it's Lords of the same name, from whom it descended, by inheritance, to the Portmans Knights [e]; next Hach-Beauchamp, [...] and then Cory-Mallet, the latter part whereof is added because of the Lords. For it was the seat of the Mallets, of Norman extraction, from whom it came in a short time, by an heiress, to the Pointzies. [...]ies. Of which family, Hugh, in the time of Edward 3. was reckon'd among the Parliamentary-Barons; and some others of it are at this day Knights of great worth. [...] But as to the Beauchamps, otherwise call'd de bello campo, [...]. they have flourish'd in great honour from the time of Hen. 2. especially since Cecil de Fortibus, descended from the Earls de Ferrariis, and from that famous Mareschal of England William Earl of Pembroke, was married into this family. But in the reign of Edw. 3. the estate was divided by sisters between Roger de S. Mauro or Seimore, and J. Meriet, both of them sprung from ancient and honorable Ancestors. This was the cause why Hen. 8. after he had marry'd Jane Seimor, Edward the sixth's mother, made Edward Seimor her brother, [...]nt Viscount Beauchamp14; whom Edw. 6. afterwards advanc'd to the honour of Duke of Somerset. [...].
Next, where Thone mixes it self with the Parret, there is made a River-Island formerly call'd Aethelingey, [...]ey. i.e. an Island of Nobles, now commonly Atheln [...]y, which is to us no less remarkable for King Alfred's absconding there, when the Dane made havock of all before him; than are those Minturnensian fenns to the Italians, for being a hiding place to Marius. For to that King (as an ancient Poet writ of him,)
And truly, this Island falls out very well for a private refuge; for the standing pools and inundations (which Asser call'd by a Latin-Saxon word Gronnas) make it inaccessible.Gronnes. It had formerly a bridge between two towers, which were built by King Alfred; also a very large set of alders, full of goats and deer; but the firm ground not above two acres broad. Upon this he built a monastery; the whole structure whereof (Malmesbury here speaks for me) is supported by four posts fasten'd in the ground, with four arch'd chancels drawn round it. The Parret does not go far alone,15 after it has got together it's waters, before it is joyn'd by another river from the East,16 which runs by Somerton, Somerton. formerly the chief town of the County, giving name to the whole. It had a castle belonging to the West-Saxon Kings, which Ethelbald King of the Mercians possess'd himself of by storm; but now it has given way to age, so that nothing of it appears: and the town would scarce support it's character, were it not for a throng Beast-fair kept there from Palm Sunday to the middle of June; for those parts make grazing their chief employment.
After the Parret has receiv'd this river, it visits a large and populous town, commonly call'd Bridge-water, Bridge-water. as 'tis thought from the bridge and the water; tho' the ancient Charters refute that conjecture, which always call it expresly Burgh-Walteri; and it is highly probable, that it took that name from Walter de Doway who was a soldier under William the Conqueror, and had many Lands bestow'd on him in this County. Nor is it otherwise call'd in that Charter, wherein Fulk Paynel Lord of Bampton gave the possession of this place to William de Briewer, to ingratiate himself with that person, who was a particular favourite of K. Rich. 3. The son of this William, of the same name with the father17, having license granted him by K. John to fortifie a castle, built one here, which now time has destroy'd; and began a bridge, which was finish'd at great expence by18 Trivet a noble-man of Cornwall19. But when William de Briewer the younger dy'd without issue, by partition it fell to Margaret his sister, by whose daughter which she bore to William 19 de la Fert, it came to the family of the Chaworths or de Cadurcis, and from them by inheritance to the Dukes of Lancaster20; but the greatest honour it ever had, was, being made a County by King Hen. 8. upon his creating Henry Daubeney, Earl of Bridgewater Earl of Bridge-water. [ee]; whose sister and coheir Cecil was marry'd to John Bourchier, the first Earl of Bath of that family.
Below this, at a few miles distance, the Parret throws it self at a wide mouth into the Severn-Sea, call'd (as we observ'd before) the Aestuarie Uzella Uzella. by Ptolemy; and by some at this day Evelmouth, but by the ancient English,g Pedredan-muð: where, (as Marianus tells us) about the year 845. Ealstan Bishop of Shirburn routed the dispers'd army of the Danes. At the same Aestuarie21 we meet with another river, which some call Brius, rising out of that spatious wood in the east part of this County, (call'd by the Britains Coitmaur, by the Saxons Selwood, Selwood. i.e.h as Asser interprets it, a great wood) not far from Pen, an inconsiderable village, where the God of war seems to have conspir'd the extirpation of the British name,i and also the utter ruin of the Danes. [Page] For Keniwalch, the West-Saxon, gave the Britains such an entire defeat in this place, that they were never after able to make head against them: and many ages after, in the same place, Edmund Ironside had a memorable victory over the Danes, whilst he pursu'd from place to place Knute the Dane, who had possess'd himself of the kingdom. This river first visits Bruiton, and gives it that name; a place famous for the tombs of the Moions, who there built a Monastery22: and running a long way thro' nothing but small villages with the encrease of a few rivulets, it waters some fruitful fields; till meeting with a softer soil, it in a manner stagnates, and makes an island call'd formerly Avalon in British, from the apples there, afterwards Inis-Witrin, i.e. a glassy Island, and in the same sense Glastn-ey, as in Latin Glasconia. A Poet of pretty good antiquity has these verses concerning it,
William of Malmes [...] ry's Antiquities of Glassenbury.In this23 stoodk the monastery of Glastenbury, which is very ancient, deriving its original from Joseph of Arimathea, the same who bury'd Christ's body, and whom Philip the Apostle of the Gauls sent into Britain to preach the Gospel. For this is attested both by the most ancient Histories of this Monastery, andl an Epistle of S. Patrick the Irish Apostle,See the title Romans in britaine. who led a monastick life here for 30 years together. From hence this place was by our Ancestors call'd, The first ground of God, the first ground of the Saints in England, the rise and fountain of all Religion in England, the burying-place of the Saints, the mother of the Saints; and that it was built by the very Disciples of our Lord. Nor is there any reason why we should call this in question, since I have before shewn, that the Christian Religion, in the very infancy of the Church, was preach'd in this Island; and since Treculphus Lexoviensis has told us that this Philip brought barbarous nations, bordering upon darkness, and living upon the seacoasts, to the light of knowledge, and haven of faith. But to return to the Monastery, and inform our selves out of Malmesbury's little treatise upon that subject. When that small ancient Church founded by Joseph was wasted away with age, Devi Bishop of S. David's built a new one in that place. And when time had worn that out too, twelve men coming from the north of Britain repair'd it; but at length King Ina (who founded a school at Rome for the education of the English youth, and to maintain that, as also to distribute alms at Rome, tax'd every single house in the kingdom one penny) pull'd this down,An. 698. and builtm that stately Church dedicated to Christ, S. Peter, and S. Paul. Just under the roof whereof, round it, he order'd these verses to be writ:
In those early times, several very devout persons serv'd God here, and especially Irish, who were maintain'd at the King's charge, and instructed the youth in Religion and the liberal sciences. For they made choice of a solitary life, that they might prosecute their divine studies with more retiredness, and inure themselves to a severe course of life to qualifie them for taking up the Cross. But at length, Dunstan, a man of excellent wit and judgment, after his reputation of sanctity and learning had given him access to the conversation of Princes, instead of these brought in Monks of a newer Order, namely, Benedictines, and was himself first made Abbot over that large body settl'd there: and these by the bounty of good and pious Princes, got so much wealth as even exceeded that of Kings. After they had for about 600 years together as it were reign'd in great abundance (for all their neighbours were at their beck,) they were driven out by Henry 8. and the Monastery, which by degrees had grown into a little city24, demolish'd, and laid level with the ground: how large and how stately it has been, may be gather'd from the ruines.
I shall be reckon'd among those in our age who are taken with every fable, should I speak any thing of the Wallnut-tree 25 here, which never buds before the feast of S. Barnabas, and on that very feast day shoots out leaves26; or theCorr [...] Hawthorn-tree 27, which buds on Christmas-day as if it were in May [f]; and yet (if any one may be trusted) these things are affirm'd by several credible persons. Before I leave this head, take in short what Giraldus Cambrensis, an eye-witness, has deliver'd at large concerning Arthur's Grave in this Church-yard.
When Henry 2. King of England had learn'd from the songs of the British Bards,The we like Art [...] that Arthur the most noble heroe of the Britains, whose courage had so often shatter'd the Saxons, was bury'd at Glassenbury [Page 65-66] between two Pyramids, he order'd search to be made for the body; and they had scarce digged seven foot deep, but they light upon aCippus. cross'd stone, or a stone in the back-part whereof was fasten'd a rude leaden Cross, something broad. This being pull'd out, appear'd to have an Inscription upon it; and under it almost nine foot deep, they found a Coffin made of hollow'd oak, wherein were reposited the bones of the famous Arthur. As to the Inscription, which being taken from the original, was formerly writ in the monastery of Glassenbury, I thought it proper to give a draught of it because of the Antiquity of it's letters. The letters have a sort of barbarous and Gothick appearance; and are a plain evidence of the barbarity of the age, which was so involv'd in a fatal sort of mist, that no one was found to celebrate the name of K. Arthur. A subject without all dispute worthy the parts and invention of the most learned; who by praising so great a Prince, might have procur'd to themselves the reputation of wit. For that strong bulwark of the British government may justly reckon this amongst his greatest misfortunes that the age did not afford aPraeco [...]m. Panegyrist equal to his Virtues. But now take a view of the Cross and Inscription.
Nor will it be improper to subjoyn what our Countryman Josephus Iscanus, no mean or ordinary poet, has said of Arthur in his Antiocheis 28.
But this Heroe (to observe it by the way out of Ninnius, if it be worth our notice) was call'd Mab-Uter, i.e. a horrible son, because from his childhood he was of a cruel temper; and Arthur, which signifies in British a horrible bear, or an iron hammer to break the Molae. grinders of Lyons.
Take also if you please some other monuments [of this place] tho' not altogether so ancient, being out of William of Malmsbury. What is a mystery to all mankind, I would willingly set down, if the truth could only be hammer'd out; i.e. what those Pyramids mean, Pyramids at G assenbury. some foot distant from the old Church, and facing the Monks Church-yard. The higher, and that nearer the Church has five stories, and is 26 foot high. This tho' it is ready to fall down for age, has yet some monuments of antiquity plainly legible, but not so plainly intelligible. For in the uppermost stories, there is an image of an Episcopal figure. In the second, an image showing something of a King-like pomp, and these letters, HER. SEXI. and BLISWERH. In the third too are these names, WEMCHESTE. BANTOMP. WINEWEGN. In the fourth, HATE. WVLFREDE. and EANFLEDE. In the fifth, which is the lowermost, an image, and this writing, LOGWOR. WESLIELAS, and BREGDENE. SWELWES. HWINGENDES. BERNE. The other Pyramid is 18 foot high, and has four stories, in which are written HEDDE bishop, and BREGORRED, and BREORWALDE.
What these may signifie, I dare not rashly determine; but only make a probable conjecture, that the bones of those men whose names are writ on the outside, may be laid in hollow stones within. As for LOWOR, he is positively affirm'd to be the person from whom the place now call'dMons acutus. Montacute was formerly nam'd LOGWERESBEORH. And BEORWALDE too was Abbot after HEMGISELUS.
To give a list of the West-Saxon Kings bury'd here, would be beside my business. Yet I cannot but mention Edgar the Peaceful, Edgar the Peaceful. (if it were upon no other account but that he always endeavour'd after peace) and subjoyn his Epitaph penn'd very well for that age:
From Glassenbury the three rivers meeting there make a sort of fenn, and afterwards discharging themselves at the same little mouth, run westward in one chanel by Gedney moore; or (as others will have it call'd) Godney-moore, Godney-moore. affirming it to be as much as [Page 67-68] God's Island, and that it was granted to Joseph of Arimathea. Next by Weadmore a Village of Alfred's, which he gave by his last Will to his son Edward: and then through that fenny spacious tract, Brentmersh, which the Monks of Glassenbury have interpreted a country of fenn-frogs, as it's little town Brentknol, a small hill of frogs.
From hence to the East, Mendipp-hills Mendippe-hills. run themselves out a great way both in length and breadth. Leland calls them Minerary-hills, and I think not amiss, since in old Records they are nam'd Muneduppe, abounding with lead-mines, and very good for the pasturage of cattle [g]; in these there is a cave of a vast length, wherein are discover'd some wells and rivulets.Ochy hole. Ochiehole is the name of it; and the inhabitants thereabouts have broach'd as many wild fancies concerning it, as the Italians have of their Sibyll's cave in the Apennine Alps.Strabo. But without doubt it had the name from Ogo a British word signifying a cave; as the Island Euboea from a cave of the same nature was call'd by a name like this, OCHA [h]. Not far from it in the reign of Henry 8. in plowing they cast up an oblong plate of lead29, design'd for a trophee, with this Inscription:
This ninth Tribuneship of Claudius fell in with the year from the building of Rome 802. and with the Consulship of Antistius and M. Suillius, at which time a great disturbance happen'd under P. Ostorius Propraetor of Britain. From the circumstances of this time give me leave to infer some conjectures. That this same year Claudius had two signal victories over the Britains, is attested by an ancient Coin of that Emperour, the best evidence that can be. On one side of it is this Inscription, TI. CLAVD. CAESAR AVG. P.M. TR. P. VIIII. IMP. XVI. PP. On the reverse, DE BRITAN. with a triumphant arch, a figure of a horseman at full speed, and two trophies. Now who these Britains were, that were conquer'd, Tacitus informs us: for he says that Claudius by the conduct of Ostorius subdu'd two of the Brittish People this year,Cangi, a people of Britain. namely, the Iceni and the Cangi.
But seeing the Iceni are as it were in another Hemisphere, what if we should say that this Trophy was erected in memory of a victory over the Cangi, a small people comprehended under our Belgae, and that those Cangi had their abode here? For not far from hence is the Irish sea,n near which he places the Cangi; and there seem to be remains of the name Cangi still left in some places hereabouts, as in the hundreds of Cannington and Canings, in Wincaunton, which is sometimes call'd Cangton; and Kaingsham, as much as to say, the mansion of the Cangi. But let the reader judge of these matters; for my part (as I said) I do not go beyond conjecture, but only endeavour to trace out the Cangi, o which I still hope to meet with in another place.
Amongst these hills is Chuton, Chuton. the seat (if I mistake not) of William Bonvil, whom Henry 6. by the name of William de Bonvill and Chuton summon'd to Parliament among the Barons,Baron Bonvil. made Knight of the Garter, and enrich'd his son by marriage with Baron Harrington's only daughter, who was then but young. But when he for want of a due sense of gratitude, sided with the house of York in the Civil wars; as if a Fury had haunted him for revenge, he was an eye-witness of the untimely death of that his only son, and of Baron Harington his granchild by him, both slain in the battle of Wakefield. And presently after, to make his old age as miserable as could be, whilst he was in earnest expectation of better fortune, himself was taken in the second battle at S. Albans, and when his glass had well nigh run out, was beheaded, leaving behind him Cecil his grandchild and heiress then very young, but afterward being marry'd to Thomas Grey Marquess of Dorset, brought him a large estate. Notwithstanding, this man's memory was as it were restor'd to him by Act of Parliament, declaring him innocent [i].1 Edw. [...]
Under Mendipp-hills to the north, is the little village Congersbury, so call'd from one Congarus a person of singular sanctity (Capgrave tells us he was the son of an Emperour of Constantinople,) who here led the life of an hermit; and Harpetre, Harpetre. formerly a castle belonging to a family of the same name, which descended hereditarily to the Gornaies, and from them to the Ab-Adams, who (as I have read) restor'd it to the Gornaies p Southward, not far from the famous Cave, at the bottom of Mendipp-hills, is a little city upon a rocky soil, and formerly a Bishop's See. Leland tells us (upon what grounds I know not) that it was formerly call'd Theodorodunum; the name of it now is Welles, Welles. so call'd from the Wells which spring up in all parts of it; so Susa in Persia,Stephanus in his Boo [...] De Urb [...] and Barletius. Croia in Dalmatia, and Pegase in Macedonia had their names from wells or fountains: from hence also this Church is call'd The Church of Wells. It may justly challenge the pre-eminence in this County, both for populousness and stateliness of the buildings. It has a Church and a College built by King Ina to the honour of S. Andrew, which was presently endow'd with large revenues by several great men. Amongst the rest, King Kinewulph gave to it a great many neighbouring places in the year 766. For thus his Charter runs: I Kinewulph King of the West-Saxons, for the love of God, and (which shall not be here mention'd) some vexations of our Cornish enemies, by the consent of my Bishops and Noble-men, humbly make over by gift a certain parcel of ground to the Apostle and servant of God, and S. Andrew, i.e. of xi Mansions near the river call'd Welwe, towards the increase of the Monastery, situate near the great fountain call'd Wielea. Which I set down both upon the account of it's Antiquity, and because some are of opinion that the place took it's name from this river30. The Church indeed is exceeding beautiful, and nothing can be finer than it's frontispiece towards the West, which is one entire pile of statues curiously wrought out of stone, and of great antiquity31.
The Bishop's palace is very splendid, and towards the south looks like a Castle, as it is fortify'd with walls and a ditch; and the Prebendaries houses on 'tother side are exceeding neat. For there are 27 Prebends, with 19 petty-Canons, besides a Dean, a Precentor, a Chancellor, and 3 Arch-deacons, that belong to this Church. A Bishop's See was settl'd here in the time of Edward the Elder. For when the Pope had excommunicated this Edward, upon pretence that the discipline of the Church was quite neglected in this westerly part of his kingdom; he knowing himself notwithstanding to be a nursing father of the Church, erected three new Bishopricks, Kirton, 905 Cornwall, and this of Wells, where he made Eadulph first Bishop. Not many years after,History [...] Bath. Giso was set over this Diocese, whom Harold Earl of the West-Saxons and of Kent, gaping after the revenues of the Church, did so persecute, that this See was almost quite destroy'd. But William the first, after he had conquer'd Harold, lent a helping hand to Giso then in exile, and to this distressed Church: at which time (as is evident from Domesday-book) the Bishop held the town it self, which gelded for 50 hides. Afterwards, in the reign of Henry 1. John de Villula a Frenchman of Tours was elected Bishop, and translated the See to Bath, by which means these two grew into one, and the Bishop has his title from both; so that the same person is styl'd Bishop of Bath and Wells [k]: Which occasion'd a hot dispute between the Monks of Bath and the Canons of Wells about the election of the Bishops.See i [...] [...] Dec [...] aga [...] ma [...] [...] no [...] [...] wh [...] [...] S [...] ca [...]. In the mean timeq Savanaricus Bishop of Bath, being also Abbot of Glassenbury, translated this See thither, and was styl'd Bishop of Glassenbury, but that title dy'd with him: and the difference between the Monks and the Canons was at last [Page 69-70] compos'd by that Robert who divided the revenues of his Church into so many Prebends, 1193 and settl'd a Dean, a Sub-dean, &c. Bishop Jocelin also about the same time augmented the Church with new buildings; and in the memory of our grandfathers, Ralph de Shrowsbery (as some call him) built a very neat College for the Vicars and singing-men near the north part of the Church; and also enclos'd the Bishop's palace with a wall [l]32. But in the way from the palace to the market, Th. Bekington, Bishop, built a very beautiful gate, and 12 stately stone houses of the same height hard by in the market-place. In the middle whereof is a market-house supported by seven outer pillars and a curious arch, built by Bishop William Knighte and Dean Woollman for the use of the market-people [m]. All these are in the east part of the town. In the west is a Parish-Church dedicated to S. Cuthberht; and near it a Hospital built by Nicholas Bubwith Bishop, for 24 poor people.
Out of those Mineral-mountains arises the river Frome, which hastens eastward by these pits of coal, made use of by smiths as most proper to soften iron; and before it has run any great way, wheeling towards the north, it is the boundary between this County and Gloucestershire; [...]ley. and washes Farley, a castle upon a hill belonging not many years since33 to the Hungerfords, where formerly Humphrey Bohun built a monastery, [...]l ps- [...]o [...]ton. at a little distance from Philips-Norton, a famous market-town, taking it's name from the Church dedicated to S. Philip.
[...]wood.Lower down, is Selwood before mention'd, a wood that spreads it self out a long way both in length and breadth, and is well set with trees. From this (as Ethelwerd tells us) the Country was call'dr Selwoodshire; and a town near it is to this day nam'd Frome-Selwood, supported mostly by the woollen manufacture. Scarce two miles from hence to the west, is a small but pretty neat castle34, built by the De la Mares, and thence call'd Nonney de la Mare, [...]nney de Mare. which by inheritance descended from them to the Powletts. Not far from whence is Witham, where K. Hen. 3. built a Nunnery35.
And now Frome, encreas'd by some little rivers out of this wood, joyns it self to the noble river Avon, which with an oblique course presently runs to that ancient City, [...]e. from the baths call'd by Ptolemy [...], i.e. Hot waters; and by Antoninus, Waters of the Sun; [...]ae solis. by the Britains, Yr ennaint Twymin, as also Caer Badon; and by the Saxons, Baþancester, hat Baþan, and (for the concourse of sick people)ſ Ackmanchester, as much as a City of Valetudinarians. [...]bi [...] Stephanus calls it Badiza, we at this day Bathe, and in Latin Bathonia. It lies low in a plain not very large, and is as it were fortify'd on every side with hills of an equal height, which send down [many] springs, to the great advantage of the citizens. [...] baths. In the city it self arise threet hot springs, of a blewish and sea-colour, which exhale a thin sort of mist, and something of [...]aphitis. an ill savour proceeding from corrupt water mix'd with earth and brimstone; (for the water it self has a sulphur and bituminous matter incorporated with it.) They are an effectual remedy to such bodies as by reason of ill humours are dull and heavy; for by virtue of their heat they cause sweating, and by that means the career of the humour is curb'd. But it is not at all hours they are wholsom; for from eight in the morning till three in the afternoon, they are extream hot and boyl up violently, by which they are mudded, and throw up a filthy sort of stuff from the bottom: so that at these times they are shut up; nor does any one go into them, till by their sluces they have eas'd themselves of that stuff, and are purg'd [n]. Of these three, that which is call'd The Cross-bath, because of a Cross formerly erected in the middle of it, is very easie, and moderately warm. Upon the side of it are 12 stone-seats [o], and it is enclos'd with a wall. The second, scarce 200 foot distant, is much hotter, whereupon tis call'd Whotbath, or Hot-bath. Near these two is a Hospital built by Reginald Bishop of Bathe, to relieve the necessities of sick people; and in the mid [...]le are two streets towards the west-part of the City. The third, which is largest, is in the very heart of the City, and is call'd, the King's or Royal bath; it is near the Cathedral Church, and enclos'd also with a wall. It is accommodated with 32 seats arch'd over, wherein the men and women sit apart; and both of them when they go into the water put on linnen drawers36. Where now the Cathedral Church stands, is formerly reported to have been a Temple dedicated to Minerva.Temple of Minerva. 'Tis without all doubt that Solinus Polyhistor means these baths, when he says, In Britain there are hot springs, richly accommodated with all conveniencies for the service of mankind; their tutelar Deity is Minerva, in whose Temple those perpetual fires never turn to embers, but when they go out, are converted into round pieces of hard stone. Notwithstanding which, Athenaeus affirms, that all hot baths naturally springing out of the earthu, are sacred to Hercules; and indeed amongst other old monuments almost quite defac'd by age, there is here upon the walls something of an ancient image of Hercules holding a Serpent in his hand. But rather than any difference should arise upon this, we are willing to grant that baths were dedicated both to Hercules and Minerva. For the Greeks have told us that Minerva was the first who furnish'd Hercules with a bath after he had gone through his labours. I am content, if thus much may be allow'd me upon Solinus's authority, that since Minerva was the tutelar Goddess of those springs, this must be the same city which the Britains call'd Caer Palladdur, Caer-Palladur. that is in latin Urbs Palladiae aquae, or, the city of Pallas's water. For the thing, name, and meaning do exactly agree. The finding of these springs is by our own traditions referr'd to a British King call'd Bleyden w Cloyth, i.e. Bleyden the southsayer; with what show of truth, I leave to others. However,Britains very skilful in Art-Magick Pliny assures us that this Art-Magick was in such wonderful esteem among the Britains, that they seem even to have given it to the Persians; but as to these baths, I dare not attribute their original to that art. Some of our own nation too supinely affirm that Julius Caesar was the inventor. But I cannot but think that it was late before the Romans came to know them, since Solinus is the first that makes any mention of them. The Saxons indeed about the 44th year after their landing in Britain, by a breach of Articles renewing the war, laid siege to this city [p], but being surpriz'd by the warlike Arthur, they betook themselves to Badon-hill, Badon-hill. where (tho' in a desperate condition,) they fought it out, and were slain in great numbers. This seems to be the same hill with that we now call Bannesdown, hanging over a little village near the city, nam'd Bathstone, and showing at this day it's bulwarks, and a rampire. I know there are some who seek for it in Yorkshire; but let Gildas himself restore it to this place. For in an old Manuscript-Copy of him in the Cambridge-Library, where he treats of the victory of Aurelius Ambrosius, he says; To the year of Badon-hill siege, which is not far from the mouth of Severn. But if this will not convince them, let them understand farther, that the adjoyning vale lying along the river Avon for a great way together, is call'd in British Nant-Badon, i.e. the vale of Badon; and where to seek Badon-hill but near Badon-valley, I cannot tell. For a long time after this, the Saxons frighted from making any more attempts upon this City, left it quiet to the Britains. But in the year of Christ 577. afterx Cewalin King of the West-Saxons [Page 71-72] had defeated the Britains at Deorham 37, this city being both besieg'd and storm'd, first surrender'd it self to the Saxons; and in a few years as it were recovering it self, took the new name of Akmancester [q], and grew very splendid. For Osbrich in the year 676. built a Nunnery, and presently after, when it came into the hands of the Mercians, King Offa built another Church; but both were destroy'd in the Danish Wars [r]. Out of the ruins of these there grew up another Church dedicated to S. Peter, to which Eadgar sirnam'd the Peaceful, because he was there inaugurated King, granted several immunities; the memory whereof the inhabitants still keep up by anniversary sports. In the times of Edw. the Confessor (as we read in Domesday-book) it gelded for 20 Hides, when the Shire gelded. There were 64 Burgesses of the King's, and 30 of others. But this flourishing condition was not lasting; for presently after the Norman Conquest, Robert Mowbray nephew to the Bishop of Constance, who rais'd a hot rebellion against William Rufus, plunder'd and burn'd it. But it got up again in a short time, by the assistance of John de Villula of Tours in France, who being Bishop of Wells, did (as Malmesbury informs us)y for five hundred marks purchase the city of Henry 1. whither he transla [...]ed his See, (z tho' still retaining the name of Bishop of Wells) and built him here a new Cathedral. But this, not long ago, being ready to drop down, Oliver King, Bishop of Bath, laid the foundation of another near it, exceeding large and stately; which he well-nigh finish'd. And if he had quite finish'd it, without all doubt it had exceeded most Cathedrals in England. But the untimely death of that great Bishop, with the publick disturbances38, and the avarice of some persons, who (as tis said) converted the money gather'd thro' England for that end, to other uses, envy'd it this glory [s]. However, from that time forward, Bath has been a flourishing place both for the woollen manufacture, and the great resort of strangers39; and is now encompass d with walls, wherein they have fix'd some ancient images and Roman Inscriptions to evidence the Antiquity of the place: but age has so wore them out, that they are scarce legible. And lest any thing should be wanting to the Dignity of Bath, Earls of Bath. it has honour'd some of the Nobility with the title of Earl. For we read that Philebert de Chandew, born in Bretagne in France, had that title conferr'd upon him by King Henry 7. Afterwards King Henry 8. in the 28th year of his reign, created John Bourchier Lord Fitz-Warin,I [...]quis. 31 Hen. 8. Earl of Bath40; who dying in the 31 year of the same King, was succeeded by John his son, who dy'd in the third year of Queen Elizabeth. He, before the death of his father, had John Lord Fitz Warin, from whom is descended William the present Earl of Bath, who every day improves the nobility of his birth with the ornaments of learning [ss]. Geographers make the Longitude of this City to be 20 degrees, and 56 minutes; the Latitude, 51 degrees and 21 minutes. For a conclusion, take, if you please, those Verses such as they are, concerning Bathe; made by Necham, who flourish'd 400 years ago.
Take also (if you think them worth your reading) two ancient Inscriptions lately digg'd up upon the high-way below the city in Waldcot-field; and remov'd by Robert Chambers a great admirer of Antiquities, into his gardens; where I transcrib'd them.
FORO. IVLI. MODESTVS. MIL.
LEG. II.
AN. XXV. STIPEND.
M. VALERIVS. M.
POL. EATINVS. * C. EQ.
MILES. LEG. AVG. AN.
XXX. STIPEN. X.
H. S. E.
I saw likewise these Antiquities fasten'd on the inner side of the wall, between the north and west gates: Hercules holding up his left hand, with his Club in the right. In a broken piece of stone is this writing in large and beautiful letters.
VIXIT. AN. LXXXVI.
Next, leaves folded in, Hercules bending two snakes; and in a sepulchral table between two little images, one whereof holds an Amalthaean horn, there is written in a worse character and scarce legible, ‘D. M.
SVCC. PETRONIAE VIXIT
ANN. IIII.Me [...] M. IIII.
DiesD. XV. EPO.
MVLVS ET VICTISIRANA
Filix [...] rissime [...] cerunt.FIL. KAR. FEC.’
A little below, in a broken piece of stone, and large letters, is ‘VRN. IOP.’
Between the west and south gates, Ophiucus enfolded by a serpent, two men's heads with curl'd locks, within the copings of the walls; a hare running, and underneath in a great stone this in letters a cross.
A naked man as 'twere laying hands upon a soldier; also between the battlements of the walls, leaves, two lying kissing and embracing each other; a footman brandishing his sword, and holding forth his shield; another footman with a spear; and these letters a-cross on a stone.
IS. VXSC.
And Medusa's head with her snaky hairs [t].
Upon the same river Avon (which is the bound here between this County and Glocestershire,) on the western bank of it, is Cainsham, Cain [...] so nam'd from Keina a devout British Virgin; whom many of the last age, through an over-credulous temper, believ'd to have chang'd serpents into stones,Serpe [...] stones because they find sometimes in quarries some such little miracles of sporting Nature. And I have seen a stone brought from thence, winded round like a serpent, the head whereof, tho' but imperfect, jutted out in the circumference, [Page 73-74] and the end of the tail was in the center [u]. But most of them want the head. In the neighbouring fields, and other places hereabouts, the herb Percepier [...]ercepier. grows naturally all the year round. It is peculiar to England, and one tastes in it a sort of tartness and bitterness: 'tis never higher than a span, and grows in bushy flowers without a stalk. It provokes urine strongly and quickly; and there is a water distill'd out of it, of great use, as P. Poena in his Miscellanies upon Plants has observ'd [w].
Scarce five miles from hence, the river Avon parts Bristol in the middle, [...]tow. call d by the Britains Caer Oder Nant Badon, i.e. the City Odera in Badon valley. In the Catalogue of the Ancient Cities it is nam'd Caer Brito, and in Saxon it is Brightstoƿ, i.e. a famous place. Buta those who have affirm'd it to be the Venta Belgarum, have impos'd both upon themselves and the world. The City is plac'd partly in Somersetshire and partly in Glocestershire, so that it does not belong to either, having distinct Magistrates of it's own, and being a county incorporate by it self. It stands upon a pretty high g [...]ound, between the Avon and the little river Frome; what with walls and the rivers, guarded very well: for it was formerly enclos'd with a double wall. It casts such a beautiful show, both of publick and private buildings, that it answers it's name; and there are what they call Goutes (in Latin Cloacae) built in the subterraneous caverns of the earth, to carry off and wash away the filth [x]; so that nothing is wanting either for neatness or health. But by this means it comes, that Carts are not us'd here. It is also so well furnish'd with the necessities of life, and so populous, that next to London and York, it may justly claim a preeminence over all the cities in Britain. For the trade of many nations is drawn thither by the advantage of commerce, and of the harbour, which brings vessels under sail into the heart of the city. And the Avon swells so much by the coming in of the tide, when the Moon descends from the Meridian, and passes the place opposite; that ships upon the shallows are born up 11 or 12 fathoms. The citizens themselves drive a rich trade throughout Europe, and make voyages to the remotest parts of America. At what time, and by whom it was built, is hard to say: but it seems to be of a late date, since in all the Danish plunders, it is not so much as mention'd in our Histories. For my part, I am of opinion it rose in the decline of the Saxon government, since it is not taken notice of before the year of our Lord 1063. wherein Harald (as Florence of Worcester has it) set sail from Brytstow to Wales, with a design to invade it. In the beginning of the Norman times, Berton an adjoyning farm, and this Bristow, paid to the King (as 'tis in Domesday book) 110 marks of silver; and the Burgesses return'd, that Bishop G. had 33 marks, [...]am of [...]ster. and 1 mark of gold [y]. Afterwards Robert Bishop of Constance, plotting against William Rufus, chose this for a seat of war, and fortify'd the little city with that inner wall (I suppose,) part of which remains to this day [z]. But a few years after, the Suburbs began to enlarge on every side; for on the south, Radcliff, where were some little houses belonging to the suburbs, is joyn'd to the rest of the city by a stone-bridge, which is so set with houses, that you would not think it a bridge, but a street. This part is included within the walls, and the inhabitants have the privileges of citizens. There are hospitals built in all parts for the poor, and neat Churches for the glory of God. Amongst the rest, the most beautiful is S. Mary's of Radcliffe without the walls, into which is a stately ascent by a great many stairs. So large is it, the workmanship so exquisite, and the roof so artificially vaulted with stone, and the tower so high, that in my opinion it goes much beyond all the Parish Churches in England I have yet seen. In it the founder William Canninges has two honorary monuments; the one is his image in the habit of a Magistrate, for he was five times Mayor of this City; the other an image of the same person in Clergy-man's habit, for in his latter days he took Orders, and was Dean of the College which himself founded at Westbury. Hard by it is also another Church call'd Temple, the tower whereof, as often as the bell rings, moves to and again, so as to be quite parted from the rest of the building; and there is such a chink from top to bottom, that the gaping is three fingers broad when the bell rings, growing first narrower, then again broader. Nor must we omit taking notice of S. Stephen's Church, the stately tower whereof, was in the memory of our grandfathers built by one Shipward 41, a citizen and merchant, with great charge and curious workmanship. On the east also and north parts it was enlarg'd with very many buildings, and those too included within the walls, being defended by the river Frome; which, after it has pass'd by these walls, runs calmly into the Avon, making a quiet station for ships, and a creek convenient to load and unload wares, which they call the Kay. Under this,The marsh. between the confluence of Avon and Frome, is a champain ground, which is set round with trees, and affords a pleasant walk to the citizens. Upon the south-east, where the rivers do not encompass it, Robert, natural son to King Henry 1. (commonly call'd Robert Rufus Consul of Glocester, because he was Earl of Glocester) built a large and strong Castle for the defence of his city [a]; and out of a pious inclination, set aside every tenth stone for the building of a Chappel, near the Priory of S. James, which he also erected just under the City. He took to wife Mabil daughter and sole heir of Robert Fitz-Hamon, who held this city in fealty of William the Norman. This castle yet scarce finish'd, was besieg'd by King Stephen, but he was forc'd to draw off without doing any thing; and the same person, not many years after, being prisoner there, was a fair instance how uncertain the events of war are. Beyond the river Frome, over which at Frome-gate is a bridge, one goes obliquely up a high hill of a steep and difficult ascent, from whence there is a pleasant prospect of the City, and haven below it. This upon the top runs into a large and green plain, shaded all along the middle with a double rank of trees; amongst which is a pulpit of stone, and a Chappel, wherein they say that Jordan, Companion to St. Austin the English Apostle, was bury'd; but 'tis now a free-school. This place, not to mention the private houses, is beautify'd on all sides with publick and stately buildings. On one side with a Collegiate Church call'd Gaunts, from its founder Sir Henry Gaunt Knight, who quitting the affairs of this world, here dedicated himself to God; now by the munificence of T. Carre a wealthy citizen, it is converted into a Hospital for Orphans. On the other side over against it, are two Churches dedicated to St. Austin; the one but small and a Parish-Church; the other larger, and the Bishop's Cathedral, adorn'd by King Henry 8. with six Prebendaries. Now the greatest part of it is pull'd down, and the College gate, which indeed is curiously built, has this Inscription, ‘REX HENRICVS II. ET DOMINVS ROBERTVS FILIVS HARDINGI FILII REGIS DACIAE, HVIVS MONASTERII PRIMI FVNDATORES EXTITERVNT.’
That is, ‘King Henry 2. and Lord Robert, the son of Harding, son to the King of Denmark, were the first founders of this Monastery.’
This Robert,42 Harding's son, of the blood-ro [...]al of Denmark, was an Alderman of Bristol, and was so great with King Henry43, that by his favour Maurice his son marry'd the daughter of the Lord de Barkley: from whence his posterity,Barons of Barkley. who flourish'd in great state, are to this day call'd Barons of Barkley; Register of the Monastery. some whereof are bury'd in this Church [aa].
From hence where the Avon runs, are high rocks on both sides the river, as if Nature had industriously [Page 75-76] design'd them. One of these, which hangs over the river on the east-side, is call'd S. Vincent's, and is so stock'd with Diamonds, British Diamonds. that one may get whole bushels of them. But the great plenty lessens their true value among us: for besides that, by their transparency they even vie with those from the Indies, they do not yield to them in any respect save hardness: but their being smooth'd and fil'd by nature into six or four corners, does, in my mind, render them more admirable [bb]. The other rock on the western bank is likewise full of Diamonds, which by a wonderful artifice of nature are contain'd in hollow reddish flints (for the ground here is red,) as if they were big with young. The Avon, after it has pass'd by these rocks, is at last with a full channel unloaded into the Severn-Aestuary [cc].
It remains now, that I reckon up the Earls and Dukes of this County of Somerset. Earls and Dukes of Somerset. The first Earl of Somerset is said to have been William de Mohun or Moion, the same probably thatb Maud the Empress in her Charter whereby she created William de Mandevil Earl of Essex, makes use of as a witness under the name of Comes W. de Moion, i.e. Earl W. de Moion. From this time there occurs no distinct mention of the Earls of Somerset, unless it be in this Rescript of King Hen. 3.Patents an. 1 Hen. 3. to Peter de Mawley, which I will set down, in order to incite others to spend their judgments upon it. Know ye that we have receiv'd the homage of our belov'd Uncle William Earl of Sarum, for all the lands which he holds of us, especially for the County of Somerset, which we have given to him with all the Appurtenances for homage and service, reserving still to our selves the Royalties: and therefore we command you that you grant him a full seisin of the said County with all it's Appurtenances, and for the future not to intermeddle with any thing belonging to the said County, &c. And we charge all our Earls, Barons, Knights, and Freetenents of the County of Somerset, that they pay Fealty and Homage to the said Earl, with reserve only of fidelity to the King; and that for the future they be obedient and answerable to him as their Lord. Whether one may from hence conclude that he was Earl of Somerset, as also of Devonshire (for he writ too in the same words to Robert Courtney concerning this William,) I leave to the judgment of others. Under this Henry 3. (as we read in a Book in French belonging to the family of the Mohuns Knights) 'tis said that Pope Innocent on a solemn festival made Reginald Mohun Earl of Este, i.e. (as our Author interprets it) of Somerset, delivering him a golden Rose, and granting an annual pension to be paid yearly at the altar of S. Paul's in London. So that this man seems not so much to have been properly Earl, as Apostolical Earl; An Apostolical E [...]. for so such were term'd in that age, who were created by the Pope, (as those created by the Emperour, Imperial Earls) having a power of licensing Notaries and Scribes, making Bastards legitimate, &c. under some certain conditions. A considerable time after, John de Beaufort, natural son to John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster by Catharine Swinford, See the Earls of Dorset. (being with his brothers and sister made legitimate by K. Richard 2. by the assent of Parliament,) was advanc'd to the honour of Earl of Somerset, and afterwards created Marquess of Dorset; but was presently depriv'd of that honour by Henry 4. and had only the title of Somerset left him. He had three sons, Henry Earl of Somerset, who dy'd young; John, created by K. Henry 5. first Duke of Somerset, who had an only daughter Margaret, mother to K. Henry 7. and Edmund, who succeeded his brother in the Dukedom, and was for some time Regent of France. But being recall'd, he was accus'd of having lost Normandy, upon which account he suffer'd many indignities from the people; and in that lamentable war between the two houses of Lancaster and York, was slain in the first battle of S. Albans. Henry his son succeeded him, who being a time-server, and one while siding with the house of York, another with the house of Lancaster, was by the York-party taken prisoner in the battle of Hexam, and had his levity punish d with the loss of his head. And his brother Edmund who succeeded him in this honour, the last Duke of Somerset of this family, after the defeat of the Lancastrian party at Tewksbury, was dragg'd, being all over blood, out of the Church wherein he had taken Sanctuary, and beheaded. The legitimate heirs male of this family being thus extinct, first Henry 7. honour'd Edmund his young son with this title, who soon after dy'd: and next, Henry 8. his natural son Henry Fitz-Roy; who dying without issue, Edward 6. invested44 Edward de Sancto Mauro, commonly call'd Seimor, with the same; who being full of Honours, and (as it were) loaded with Titles (for he was Duke of Somerset, Earl of Hertford, Viscount Beauchamp, Baron of S. Maur, Uncle to the King, Governour to the King, Protector of his Kingdoms, Dominions, and Subjects, Lieutenant of his forces by sea and land, Treasurer and Earl Marshall of England, Governour of the Islands of Guernsey and Jarsey, &c.) was, as if he had been fortunes foot-ball45, on a sudden thrown down, for but a slight crime, and that too contriv'd by the treachery of his enemies; and depriv'd of his honours and life together.
There are reckon'd in this County 385 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to SOMERSETSHIRE.
[A] THE general account our Author has given of the Belgae, tho' it may in some measure be true, namely, that they liv'd in part of Hamshire and the south part of Wiltshire; yet by assigning all Wiltshire and this County of Somerset, to that people, he may seem to have extended their bounds too far. And the learned world would do well to consider whether North-Wiltshire and all Somersetshire, might not be as fairly bestow'd upon the Cangi, a people mention'd byAnnal. lib. 12. Tacitus. 'Tis an opinion favour'd by Mr. Tanner, who has made great search as into Antiquities in general, so particularly into the affairs of those parts. And truly not without probable grounds: for besides what Camden himself has urg'd to strengthen the conjecture, as the Triumphal Arch found here, erected to the honour of Claudius Caesar, in whose time these Cangi were subdu'd; and the resemblance of the name in Cannington and Cannings Hundreds, and the towns of Wine-caunton and Cainsham: if we consider two or three reasons more, it will appear a little strange why Mr. Camden should recant, and upon second thoughts place the Cangi in Cheshire.
For, 1. The whole course of Ostorius's march may seem to convince us that the Cangi liv'd in this part of the Island; especially if the Iceni may upon the authority and reasons of a latePlot's Hist. of Staffordshire, [...] sect. 3. Author, be brought to those parts where the Ikenild-street pass'd. After he had quell'd the Iceni, he immediately march'd against the Cangi; but before he had finish'd his Conquests over them, the commotions of the Brigantes requir'd his presence in their Country; retraxêre ducem, saith the Historian: now if the Cangi had inhabited Cheshire, they had almost laid in his way to the Brigantes, who therefore could not be said retrahere ducem. But after they were subdu'd, he comes back, and settles a Colony at Camulodunum, which (if the resemblance of the name, the nature of the place, and all the signs of a Roman station be of any force) we may place atSee [...] den's d [...] scripti [...] it. Camalet in this County. Besides, [Page 77-78] it must needs be in those parts, because the Romans march'd from thence to subdue the Silures, from whom they march'd against the Ordovices. And can we imagine that any prudent General (as Ostorius no doubt was) would harrass his Souldiers with such a needless march as from Cheshire or Staffordshire into South-Wales, and so leave enemies behind him in North-Wales; into which they would first have bended their course, if Camulodunum had been so near it, asPlot's Hist. of Stafford [...]ire. some endeavour to prove. 2. Lipsius's conjecture of reading instead of the Cenimagni of Caesar, Iceni, Cangi, confirms this opinion; for if that be allow'd, then from Caesar's own words those Iceni and Cangi must be plac'd in the south parts of Britain, near the Bibroci (in Barkshire,) and the Segontiaci (in Hamshire;) so that the share of the Cangi will in all probability fall in North-Wiltshire and Somersetshire. 3. The memory of those people preserv'd in several names of places besides those mention'd by Camden. Such are, Caningan-maersces in the Saxon Chronicle; which are undoubtedly the marshes in Somersetshire. In Wiltshire there is the Hundred of Canings, and in it a town of the same name call'd in old Writings Caningas; as in another Hundred is Alcannings (as much possibly as old, or old Cannings.) And that ancient town of Caln (especially if spell'd as we find it in Domesday, Cauna, or as at this day, Caun) seems to retain something of the name. 4. Why may not the Severn-sea be that which Tacitus says looks towards Ireland, near which the Cangi liv'd; and Avon in those parts, the Antona of Tacitus, on the banks whereof Ostorius, before the rebellion broke out, had made several garrisons? And thus much of the ancient Inhabitants.
[a] This County of Somerset was by our Saxon Fore-fathers call'd Sumursaetescyre, and the inhabitants of it, Sumursaetas, Sumorsaete, and Sumaersaetas. The letter (o) in the first Syllable was brought in by later Writers; as it has likewise into the principal town Somerton, which by the Saxons was call'd Sumurton, and by some of the more early Historians Sumerton.
[...]lock. [...]atchet.[b] Upon the coast of the Severn-sea lye Porlock and Watchet, two ports famous in the times of the Saxons; which our Author tells us, An. 886. suffer'd much from the Danes.Chron. [...]. Watchet in the year 997. was again harrass'd by them, and amongst the rest of the neighbours in those westerly parts, suffer'd whatever fire and sword could inflict. Porlock was the place where Harold landed from Ireland, (An. 1052.) who being oppos'd by the inhabitants and neighbouring people, slew great numbers of them, and carry'd off a large booty.
More eastward from hence, at some distance from the sea, [...]ing [...] is Cannington, at or about which place, in the year 1010, the Danes so much practis'd their old trade of burning and plunder. The present name agrees well enough with the old [...]ron. [...] Mx. Caningan, and the situation of it, with the marches of that army. Nor does the maersces (the marshes) which is added to it, less confirm the opinion, if Mr. Camden's character of the whole County be true, that it is (especially in the winter) extreme wet and fenny. I had once thought this the Marshes in Kent, and that Caningan was an errour of the Librarians for Centingan; but upon examining the course of their journey, the mistake appear'd.
[c] Leaving the sea-coast, our next direction is the river Ivel; near which is Camalet, mention'd by Mr. Camden as a place of great Antiquity. [...]eland's [...]rar. 2. [...]en's [...]es up [...] [...]olyolb. The hill is a mile in compass at the top, four trenches circling it, and between each of them an earthen wall. In the very top of the hill is an Area of 20 acres or more, where in several places, as Leland observes, might be seen the foundations of walls. And there was much dusky blew stone, which the people of the adjoyning villages had in his time carry'd away. Beside the coyns, Stow tells us of a silver horse-shoe there digg'd up in the memory of that age; and Leland describes it in a kind of extasie; Good Lord (says he) what deep ditches, what high walls, what precipices are here! In short, I look upon it as a very great wonder both of Art and Nature.
[d] Not far from hence is North-Cadbury, North-Cadbury. which our Author tells us came into the family of the Botereauxs by the marriage of Isabella daughter of John de Moels. It continu'd in the said family till the death of William the late Lord Botereaux, who dying 2 Ed. 4. without issue-male, this Lordship with a very great inheritance descended to Margaret his daughter and sole heir, marry'd to Robert Lord Hungerford, from whom it descended to Mary Lady Hungerford their great Grand-daughter, who was marry'd to Edward Lord Hastings and Hungerford, father to George the first of that sirname Earl of Huntingdon; in which family it continu'd to the reign of James 1. that Sir Francis Hastings, younger son to Francis Earl of Huntingdon being possess'd of the same, and having no children, did alienate it.
[e] Ivel continuing it's course towards the sea, joyns with the river Parret, which a little more northward is encreas d by the Thone. Near the head of this, stands Orchard, Orchard. formerly the inheritance of the Portmans. But now that family being extinct in the late Sir William Portman, he has left it to his Cousin-german by the mother's side Mr. Henry Seymour, who now enjoys it, and has his residence there.
[ee] Upon the Parret stands Bridgwater, Earls of B [...]idgewater. the Earl whereof Henry Daubeny dying without issue-male, this title lay dead till the 15 of Jac. 1. when it was conferr'd upon John Egerton, Baron of Ellesmere, Viscount Brackley, and son to the Lord Chancellor Egerton. He was succeeded by his son John, and this John by a son of the same name.
[f] From hence let us go along with Mr. Camden north-west to Glassenbury, Glassenbury. where amongst other curiosities he mentions the budding of a Hawthorn-tree on Christmas-day. The tree has been cut down these many years; yet there are some still growing in the County from branches of that; as particularly, one in the garden of William Stroud Esq possessor of the ground where the other stood; another in the garden of the White-hart Inn, in Glassenbury.
[g] Farther northward are Mendippe-hills, Mendippe-hills. famous for the lead-mines; free for any English-man to work in, except he has forfeited his right by stealing any of the oar or tools of the others. And their law or custom in that case is very remarkable. The Groviers (for so the Miners are call'd, as the pits they sink are call'd Groves) living at some distance leave their tools, and the oar they have got sometimes open upon the hill, or at best shut up in a slight hutt. Whoever amongst them steals any thing, and is found guilty, is thus punish'd: He's shut up in a hutt, and then dry fearn, furzes, and such other combustible matter is put round it, and fire set to it. When 'tis on fire, the Criminal who has his hands and feet at liberty, may with them (if he can) break down his hutt, and making himself a passage out of it, get free and be gone; but must never come to work, or have to do any more on the hill. This they call Burning of the hill. There is lead also dug on Broadwell-down, Broad-well. and other parts thereabouts, lying between Wrinton and Backwell. About the west-end of Mendippe-hills is found plenty of Lapis Calaminaris, lying near the surface of the earth. This calcin'd and mix'd with copper, makes brass. Here are also some veins of Magnesia or Mangonesse, and of Yellow Oker.
[h] In those hills is Ochie-hole, otherwise call'd Wockey-hole; Wockie-hole. which latter is certainly the right, coming from ƿoc, which does not imply any hollowness, asNotes upon Polyolb. p. 53. Selden would have it, for that is express'd by hole; but signifies crooked, or (as he also observes) creeky; not but that ƿoc might come from the British Ogo; so that Camden's conjecture may be pertinent enough. The inhabitants have broach'd strange and extravagant fables concerning this cave: passing by those as impertinent, the place is in it self so remarkable, as very well to deserve our notice. From a very narrow entrance it opens into a large vault, the roof whereof (either for it's height or the thickness of the air) they who go in cannot discover by the light of candles they carry with [Page 79-80] them. After having clamber'd over several rough and unequal passages amongst the moist rocks, you come at last to a stream of very clear cold water. In several places of this Cave, one may see that the droppings of water encrease the rock, and turn into stone in some places hanging down like icicles.
[i] Amongst those hills is Chuton, Chuton. famous for the seat of William Bonvill, who lies interr'd with his Lady in the Chancel at Chuton. It is now the Mannour as well as title of the present Lord Waldgrave, whose father, by K. James 2. was created Baron Waldgrave of Chuton.
Towards the north is Chue Magna or Bishops-Chue, Chue Magna or Bishops Chue. where is dug up a red bolus, call'd by the country-people Reding, from thence distributed all over England for the marking of sheep, and such other uses: it is also often us'd by Apothecaries instead of Bolus Armenus.
A mile east from Chue-Magna, on the south-side of the river Chue, lies Stanton-Drew, Stanton-drew. Aubr. MS. where is to be seen a monument of stones like those of Stone-henge in Wiltshire: but these being not altogether so big as the Stone-henge ones, nor standing in so clear a plain, the hedges and trees mix'd amongst them have made them less taken notice of.
Two miles south of Stanton Drew, at Stowey, Stowey. on the side of the hill above the Church, rises a large spring that is never dry. The water coming from thence as it runs down through Stowey, covers the things it meets in it's way with a stony crust. This effect it has not in the very source, nor within 20 yards where it rises: the place where it works most, is about forty or fifty yards from the rising, at a fall higher than a man's head. There it sheaths every thing with stony cases, and makes the sides of the bank hard rock; and from thence all along it's stream, it covers sticks, &c. with a crust. See a larger description of it in a letter from Mr. Lock, inserted in Boyle's Hist. of the Air, pag. 140.
[k] Returning southward over Mendippe hills, we meet with Wells, Wells, where our Author tells us was a Bishop's seat, till John de Villula in the time of King Hen. 1. removing it to Bath, the Bishops were call'd Bishops of Bathe and Wells. But it is observable, that almost 200 years after John, the Bishops were only call'd Bishops of Bathe, and sometimes of Glaston, but not of Wells. So that our Author affirming afterwards when he comes to Bathe, that this John did retinere Wellensis Episcopi nomen, i.e. still keep the title of Bishop of Wells, must needs be in a vulgar error. For Bishop Godwin, in his English Tract of the Bishops, expresly says, that he renounc'd that title of Wells when he came to Bathe. And Dr. Guidott, in his accurate history of Bathe (which is now ready for the press) proves the same by subscription and nomination to that time.
The Bishop's palace, our Author informs us, was encompass'd with a wall by Raulph of Shrowsbery. But this was certainly done by Ralph Erghum (the fourth Bishop after Shrowsbery) who finish'd this work and his life together, 10. Apr. A. D. 1400. whereas Shrowsbery dy'd 14 Aug. An. 1336. The truth of this (as Dr. Guidott informs us) is evident from a Record made by a Monk of Bath who liv'd at the same time, and not long after in a Menology to the 10. of April writ as follows: Obiit Dominus Radulphus Episcopus Bathon. & Well. isto die Sabbati; qui vallavit muris & fossis palatium Episcopi apud Wells, & jacet ibidem, Anno Dom. MCCCC. litera Dominicali C. i.e. On that Sabbath dy'd Ralph Bishop of Bath and Wells, who made a wall and a trench about the Bishop's Palace at Wells, where he lies bury'd, A. D. MCCCC. the Dominical Letter C. This Book was writ by the Monk, An. 1428.
[m] As to the Market-place which Mr. Camden takes notice of, it is commonly call'd The Cross; and beside that, there has been built a fair market-house of late years between the said Cross, and the gate which leads to the palace.
West of Wells, just under Mendippe-hills, lies Cheddar, Cheddar. famous for the excellent and prodigious great Cheeses made there, some of which require more than one man's strength to set them on the table. Above this place is a gap as it were cut into the hill, which affords a narrow passage for travellers between, and has stupendous high rocks on both sides; famous in this Country under the name of Cheddar Cliffs. Cheddar Cliffs. At the foot of these rocks rise a great and clear spring, which within a quarter of a mile of the source drives 12 mills.
[n] From Wells let us pass to Bath, Bathe. famous for it's Waters; in describing of which, our Author, for want of due information, seems to have fell into an error. He tells us, that from eight in the morning till three in the afternoon, they are so filthy, that no body goes in. AndAnno [...] [...] Po [...]yol [...]. pag. 53. Selden is drawn into the mistake, delivering Mr. Camden's sense in other words. How it might be in their times, I dare not positively determine; but 'tis certainly known as well to the Inhabitants as others who go there, that the bath may be enter d without danger at any time; and in the hot weather when the scum arises, the guides of the bath must take some time to cleanse the water, (which they generally do at their coming in;) and many bathers are in the morning in bath till dinner-time, without any prejudice from the scum.
[o] The distances of the baths, and number of seats, are different from that account our Author has left us. At the Cross-bath there are 16 arches of stone for seats. Betwixt Cross bath and Hot-bath are not 200 feet (as Mr. Camden,) nor full 60, but upon an exact measure 58 and a half. In the King's-bath there are but 28 seats arcuati operis, as he calls them, i.e. arched: there are indeed other stone-benches set there on purpose to sit upon.
[p] As for the time of it's being besieg'd by the Saxons, it could not be about 44 years after their coming over. That siege was laid An. 520. which is 69 years from their landing, according to Bede's account; or if we take Mr. Camden's state of the case to be right, and fix their entrance in 428. it will amount to 92 years, which is yet farther off.
[q] when this place took the name of Akmancester, cannot be precisely determin'd; but probably long after it's surrender to Ceawlin. Dr. Guidot (who has taken great pains in searching into the Antiquities of this place) is of opinion it could not be till the time of K. Alfred, An. 880. but is rather inclin'd to believe it 50 years after, near the year 930. in the time of Athelstan.
[r] For the founder of the Monastery there in 676. there is no such person as Osbrick about that time. His name seems to have been Osrick or Osricus, not he of that name who was King of Northumberland, but Wicciorum Regulus, a petty King of the Wiccians. And as for the new Church arising out of the ruines of this and Offa's Church, after the Danish War; the learned Doctor, upon a most accurate search into the records of the place, finds, that the Church wherein Edgar was crown'd, was the very building rais'd by Offa, which stood some years after. And after Offa's time there was no new Church built till the year 1010. when Elphege, Archbishop of Canterbury, founded one.
[s] Our Author observes, that Oliver King built here a stately Church. 'Tis probable, that in memory of him these two verses were engraven, which are to be seen still on the west end of this Church.
As for the Inscriptions, tho' they are pretty accurate, yet I think we may venture to say, they are not altogether free from mistakes; and that upon the authority of a person, who has not only actually view'd them, but spent also a considerable time upon a History of the place.
In the first, which begins C. MVRRIVS, and the third line, between the P. F. and IVLI. there ought to be a pretty large breach of about 4 or 5 Letters, which I think one cannot better supply, than by reading it MANIPULI; not only because 'tis most agreeable both to the sense, and the space of that defect which appears in the stone; but also because the initial I of Mr. Camden's IVLI has so much of a turning joyn'd to the upper part, as plainly shews it [Page 81-82] to have been design'd for a P. The F before it will rather bear the interpretation of Fidelis than Felicis (as our Author has it,) the former seeming more agreeable to the character of a Soldier, especially one who had no eminent Post, and so could not be any way remarkable for his conduct. In the 4th line the N in AN. is doubl'd. The last letter E is not now in the stone, being swallow'd up probably in a fissure crossing it.
In the second, which begins DIS. MANIBUS. and the third line, what our Author makes POL. from the sense of the Inscription, is undoubtedly FIL. In the stone, the F is close joyn'd to the I. which makes it at first look something like a P. The EATINUS is LATINUS, and the cause of the mistake appears to have been two little strokes in the upper part of the L, which in the stone has this shape
The first syllable of the fourth line is contracted in this manner
. and the AUG. thus
. In the 4th line instead of XXX we are to read XXXV. the V being plainly link'd with a branch of the last X. and instead of X is to be put XX.
In the third, which begins DEC. COLONIAE. the last part of this word appears thus in the stone
the space being occasion'd by a hole which has straitn'd the O. In the second line, the IT in VIXIT is express'd thus
. and between the LXXX and VI is something much like a Q, but of a size less than the other Letters. The Inscription when entire did probably consist of 4 lines at least.
In the fourth, the NI in PETRONIAE is thus contracted
. In the third line ANN. III. not IIII. and in the fourth D. IX. instead of D. XV. the V being joyn'd to what Mr. Camden calls EPO. instead of V
O. i.e. VETRO or VETERO. So that VETROMVLVS or VETEROMVLVS was probably the Father's name. The ET is express'd as in VETRO, and the TI as IT in VIXIT in the second Inscription, only without the stroke through the middle: but that word is VICTISARINA. not (as our Author has it) VICTISIRANA.
[ss] William, the last Earl of this place, which our Author mentions, [...]inuati [...] of it's [...]. dying 12 Jul. 1623. left this honour to Edward his only son then living, who having no issue-male that surviv'd him, the title, upon his death, came to Sir Henry Bourchier, as son to Sir George Bourchier (who was third son to John, the second of that name, Earl of Bathe.) This Henry dying without issue, An. 1654. the title lay vacant till K. Ch. 2.'s restoration when, among other honors, it was conferr'd upon John Grenevil, for his eminent Services to that King, and his being particularly instrumental in bringing about that happy change.
The soil for some miles about Bathe, especially to the westward, as at Coston, and thereabouts, is so very stony, that when 'tis newly plough'd, one would rather take the ridges for so many pitch'd Causeys to walk on, than for a plough'd land to sow corn in; so little of earth is to be seen among those bare stones the ploughshare turns up. Yet here they have as good wheat as any in England; tho', perhaps, not altogether so much on an acre as in deeper land. The Country-men attribute these large crops mostly to the stones; and if those were carry'd off, the earth left upon the hard rock would be so little, that it would not cover their corn; and so light, that the wind would blow it away.
[t] Between Bathe and Bristol, a little river runs into the Avon, [...]n [...]. [...]r. MS. upon which is Stanton-drew, whereof the latter part might seem to point out some relation to the old Druids, but that Drew is the name of an ancient family in the western parts; and the monument there, call'd the Wedding, would strengthen such a conjecture. The occasion of the name Wedding, is a tradition which passes among the common people, That a Bride going to be married, she and the rest of the company were chang'd into these stones. They are in a circular form, 5 or 6 foot high; and the whole monument is bigger than Stonehenge, the Diameter here being 90 paces; tho' no appearance of a ditch.
Returning to the river Avon, we come to Cainsham (rather Keynesham Keynesham) call'd so from the Virgin Keina, of whose family the Keynes of this County (some whereof are still living) affirm themselves des [...]ended. But whereas Mr. Camden affirms he saw a stone like a serpent brought from hence with a head, it is a mistake; for all our Naturalists now agree, that such stones are form'd in Nautili shells, and that there are no heads belonging to them. Indeed, many of them have rough and broken pieces of stone issuing from them beyond the moulded wreath at the broad end; which may have led some to imagine that those pieces were imperfect heads; but really they are not so. Such kind of snake-stones of all sizes from above a foot, to an inch or two diameter, are found frequently in their quarries.
[w] Between this place and Bristol, upon the Avon, is Bristleton, Bristleton. abounding in the same sort of cole that are brought from New-castle. From Bristleton in several places of the adjacent Country as far as Stratton and Mendippe-hills, as also Northward in Glocestershire, are found veins of this cole, which afford a strong and cheap firing to all those parts. These veins of Cole are cover'd with a shell of a black hard stony substance, call'd wark, which will split like blue slat, but is much more brittle, and not by much so hard. Upon dividing this Wark there is often sound upon one of the separated surfaces the perfect shape of a fern leaf, as if it had by a skilful hand been engraven; which as an exact mould or case, receives the protuberant figure of the like leaf standing out on the other.
[x] Next, the Avon runs to Bristol, Bristol. eminent for it's Goutes or subterraneous vaults; by reason of which, they draw all things on sledges, for fear the shaking of cart-wheels should loosen these arches.
[y] About the Conqueror's time they paid thirty three marks, and one mark of gold to Bishop G. Who this Bishop was, is not express'd in Domesday, nor any more than the bare initial either of his name or See. If we durst say that G. were instead of an S. (for those two letters are not unlike) Sherborn or Salisbury (under whose jurisdiction it seems to have formerly been) would solve the difficulty; but if that will not do, I find none of the Bishop's names about that time beginning with G. If we preserve the reading, Glevum or Glocester offers it self fairest; which tho' annex'd at times to Lichfield and Worcester, seems notwithstanding to have had the title of a Bishop's See.
[z] As for the place's being fortified by Robert Bishop of Constance, it is a mistake for Geofry, as appears from Bishop Godwyn in his Catalogue of Bishops, under the title Exon. And Osborn in his Chronicon Juridiciale, at the year 1072. tells us, that Geofrey Bishop of Constance was the Chief Justiciary of England in that notable cause between Lanfranck Archbishop of Canterbury, and Odo Bishop of Bayeux. 'Tis possible the name of Mowbrey Earl of Northumberland, who was nephew to the Bishop, and his name Robert, might lead our Author into an error.
[aa] The castle which our Author tells us was built here by Robert Rufus Consul of Glocester, is now quite demolish'd and built into a street.
[aaa] The honour of this place has been encreas'd by giving the title of Earl to John Lord Digby of Shirburn, created 20 Jac. 1. to whom succeeded in the same honour George his son, and John his grandson.
[bb] Mr. Camden makes the Diamonds of S. Vincent's rock admirable for th [...]ir six corners; but if we may trust our Naturalists, they assure us that 'tis not worthy of admiration, since very often Crystals, and Berills, and even sometimes your common Sparrs, in many parts of England as well as elsewhere, are of that figure.
[cc] And thus Avon passes into the Severn-sea; tho' before we leave it, it may not be improper to observe, that it furnishes Bristol (at the vernal equinox or then abouts) with a dish perhaps not to be met with elsewhere, which they call Elvers. Elvers. Some time in the spring, the river about Cainsham is yearly cover'd [Page 83-84] over and colour'd black with millions of little eels scarce so big as a goose quill, tho' some would have them a particular species. These with small nets they skim up in great numbers, and by a particular way of ordering them, make them skower off their skins. Being thus stripp'd, and looking very white, they make them up into little Cakes, which they fry, and so eat.
Continuation of the DUKES.
By the attainder of Edward Duke of Somerset, that title lay vacant for a long time; only Sir Robert Carr, Knight of the Bath, was by the favour of King James 1. created Earl of Somerset; who falling under disgrace upon the account of Sir Thomas Overbury's death, and having only a daughter, that honour was at an end. Upon the restoration of King Charles 2. William Seymour, Marquess of Hertford, was for his eminent services restor'd to the title of Duke of Somerset, and was succeeded by William, grandchild by Henry his third son, William and Robert the two elder brothers dying unmarry'd. William dy'd unmarry'd, and had for his successor John Lord Seymour his Uncle, who dy'd without issue. Whereupon, this title was devolv'd upon Sir Francis Seymour, the third son to Edward Lord Beauchamp, son and heir to Edward Earl of Hertford: whose posterity now enjoys it.
More rare Plants growing wild in Somersetshire.
Aria Theophrasti Ger. Alni effigie lanato folio major C. B. Sorbus Alpina J. B. Sorbus sylvestris, Aria Theophrasti dicta Park. White-Beam-tree. On the rocks over against St. Vincent's rock near Bristol, and in many other places on hilly and rocky grounds among other shrubs and trees.
Asplenium sive Ceterach J. B. Ger. Park. Asplenium sive scolopendra, Ceterach Officinarum C. B. Ceterach, Spleenwort, Miltwast. On the stone walls about Bristol, plentifully.
Carduus tomentosus Anglicus Lob. Ad. Park. English woody-headed Thistle. Observ'd by Lobel in many barren fields of this County, particularly near one Mr. Saintloo's house. This plant is without doubt the same with Carduus tomentosus, Corona fratrum dictus of Parkinson. Carduus capite tomentoso of J. B. eriocephalus Ger. emac. capite rotundo tomentoso C.B. And so C. Bauhine and Parkinson deceived by Lobel, who in his Icons gives two figures of the same Thistle, make two species of one. This is found in several other Counties of England, but not very frequent.
Cistus humilis Alpinus durior, Polii nostratis folio candicante Plukenet. Phytograph. Tab. 22. Dwarf Cistus or Sunflower with Poley-mountain leaves. Found by Dr. Plukenet on Brent downs in this County, near the Severn-sea.
Colchicum commune C. B. Anglicum purpureum Park. Ger. Colchicum J. B Meadow Saffron. In some meadows about Bath. It is also found in many meadows in Glocester and Worcester shires, and elsewhere in the West of England.
Equisetum sive Hippuris lacustris foliis mansu arenosis. On a bog by Smochall a wood nigh Bath. Phyt. Brit. See the Synonyma in the Kentish Catalogue.
Ferrum equinum Germanicum siliquis in summitate C. B. Ger. emac. equinum comosum Park. Ornithopodio affinis, vel potiùs Soleae aut Ferro equino herba J. B. Tufted Horseshee-vetch. On the hills about Bath, and between Bath and Marleborough. Phyt. Brit.
Hedera terrestris faxatilis Lobelii Park. p. 677. Sa [...] atilis Ger. emac. saxat. magno flo [...]e C. B. Asarina aut Hederula faxatilis Lob. item Asa [...]ina sterilis Savenae & Narbonensis agri ejusdem. Stone Alehoof. In some places of Somersetshire, as Parkinson saith, he found it quoted among Lobel's papers which came to his hands. I do not much rely upon Lobel's memory as to the places of plants, and fear there will be no such herb found in this Country; yet for the authority of so great a Botanist, I would not omit it.
Lunaria minor Ger. Park. botrytis J. B. racemosa minor vel vulgaris C. B. Moonwort. About the Bath, especially at a place call'd Carey, two miles from Bruiton, in the next close to the Church-yard. Ger. p. 406. Scarce a County in England but this plant may somewhere or other be found in it; yet because it is not common, and the knowledge of it desired by many, I thought fit to mention a particular place for it, but upon Gerard's authority, not my own knowledge.
Ornithogalum angustifolium majus, floribus ex albo virescentibus C. B. Asphodelus bulbosus Ger. bulbosus Galeni, seu Ornithog. majus flore subvirescente Park. Asphodelus bulbosus Dodonaei, seu Ornithogalum spicatum flore virente J. B. Spiked Star of Bethlehem with a greenish flower. Observed by Thomas Willisel on a hill three miles on this side Bristol in the way to Bath. It may be the same place mention'd with that in Phyt. Brit. viz. in the way between Bath and Bradford, not far from little Ashley.
Polygonum maritimum longiùs radicatum nostras, Serpylli folio circinato crasso nitente, fortè Polygonum lentifolium C. B. 282. & Prod. 131. Polygonum minus Monspeliense Park. 446. Found by Dr. Plukenet on the Severn shore near Weston super mare.
Polygonatum Hellebori albi folio, caule purpurascente D. Bobert. Solomon's seal with white Hellebore-leaves and a purplish stalk. In the woods on the north-side of Mendip-hills.
Rapunculus Corniculatus montanus Ger. flore globoso purpureo J. B. folio oblongo, spica orbiculari C. B. Alopecuroides orbiculatus Park. Horned Rampions. Between Selbury hill and Beacon hill in the way to Bath. Phyt. Brit. Upon the credit of which book I do not at all rely: only because the place makes it probable, I have put it down.
Scorodoprassum primum Clusii Ger. [...]mac. Allium Sphaericeo capite, folio latiore, sive Scorodoprassum alterum C. B. Great round-headed Garlick of the Holms island. Found growing plentifully there by Mr. Newton.
Vermicularis frutex minor Ger. fruticosa altera Park. Sedum minus fruticosum C. B. An Calispecies seu vermicularis marina arborescens J. B. Shrub stone-crop or Glass-wort. Found on the Holms islands in the Severn sea by Lobel plentifully.
Vicia sylvatica multiflora maxima P. B. perennis multiflora spicata major Moris. hist. Great-tufted wood-vetch. In a wood nigh Bath. Phyt. Brit. This is also found in many places in the North and West parts of England.
Virga aurea maxima radice repente D. Bebert. aurea serrata latifolia C. B. aurea serratis soliis Park. aurea Arnoldi Villa-novani Ger. emac. aurea sive solidago Saracenica latifolia serrata J. B. Broad-leaved indented Golden-rod. Found plentifully by the side of a small river between Wells and Glastenbury, by Mr. Bobert.
WILTSHIRE.
WILTSHIRE, (which was also inhabited by thea Belgae) is a mid-land County, call'd by the Saxonsb Wil-setta, and by the vulgar Latin [Historians] Wiltonia, from it's once chief Town Wilton, which also took it's name from the river Willy. It is bounded on the West with Somersetshire c, on the East with the Counties of Berks and Southampton, on the North with Glocestershire, on the South with Dorsetshire and part of Hamshire. A Country, not only renown'd for the valour of it's Natives, who (asd Joannes Sarisburiensis tells us in his Polycraticon) with those of Cornwall and Devonshire upon the account of their bravery in matters of Arms, did challenge to themselves the honour of being the Reserve in our English armies; but also for the extraordinary fertility of the soil in all things, and for it's delightful variety which affords a very pleasant prospect.
The Northern part1, once o'respread with woods, which are now almost destroy'd, is full of pleasant risings, and watered with clear streams. For the Isis, which is afterward called Tamisis [a], the chief of the British Rivers, whilst it is but small, (with other Rivers of less note, of which I shall make mention in their proper places) glides thro' it. The south part, being a large champagne fruitful Country, feeds innumerable flocks of sheep, and is watered with other Rivers, Land floods, and constant Springs. The middle of this shire is for the most part plain and level, a-cross which from East to West a wonderful ditch is thrown up for many miles together; it is called by the neighbouring Inhabitants Wansdike, [...]nsdike. of which they have a groundless tradition, that it was made by the Devil upon a Wednesday. The Saxons indeed term'd it Wodenerdic, that is, Woden's or Mercury's ditch, probably from Woden the false God and Father of the [Heathen] Saxons. I always thought that it was cast up by the Saxons for a Boundary between the Dominions of the West Saxons and the Mercians [b]. For this Country was the field of war, during the contentions between these two Kingdoms about the enlarging of their Territories. And the villagee Wodensburge is near this ditch [c], where Ceaulin the most valiant King of the West-Saxons, A. D. 590. endeavouring to defend the frontiers of his kingdom, was so routed in a bloody battle by the Britains and [some malecontent] Saxons, that he was forced to flie his Country, and died, pitied by his very enemies, miserably in exile And, that I may omit other actions, here Ina the W. Saxon, and Ceolred the Mercian fought with equal success. This Ditch is like that, which Offa made to separate the Britains from his Mercians, [...]mit [...]. yet call'd Offa-dike: there are others of the like nature to be seen in the Kingdom of the East-Angles 2, by which they fortified themselves against the incursions of the Mercians: of which I shall treat more largely in their proper places.
In North Wiltshire [d] the Thames runs by the town call'd Crecklade 3, [...]klade. by others, Grekelade, from the Greek Philosophers, as some credulously think; by whom, as tis recorded in the History of Oxford, an University was here founded, which was afterwards translated to Oxford 4. Under this is Lediara Tregoze, the seat of the Knightly Family of the St. Johns, which Margaret de Bello Campo or Beauchamp, afterwards Dutchess of Somerset, gave to Oliver St. John her second son. To her it came as heiress to those great names of Patishull, Grandison, and Tregoze f. Near to this is Wotton-Basset 5,Wotton-Basset. whose additional name shews that it sometime belong'd to the noble family of the Bassets. In the last Century (as I have been inform'd) it was the seatg of the Duke of York, who here enclosed a very large park for deer. All the Country hereabouts, once cover'd with Breden-wood, now called Breden forest, B edenforest. was miserably wasted by Ethelwald Clito and his auxiliary Danes, A. D. 905. On the West side of this Forest the forementioned river Avon smoothly glides, which arising almost in the very North limit of this County runneth toward the south, and was (ash Ethelwerd observes) for some time the boundary of the West Saxon and Mercian Kingdoms, at which there were several great battles fought [e]. Whilst it is but shallow, it runneth at the bottom of the hill, upon which Malmsbury Malms [...]ury is built; and having received another brook, it almost compasseth it round. It is a neat town, and in good repute upon the account of the Cloathing-trade: and was, as the Eulogium Historiarum reports, with the castles of Lacock and Tetbury, built by Dunwallo Mulmutius King of the Britains, and by him call'd Caer Bladon. And when it was destroy'd by wars, out of it's ruines arose (as Historians have it upon record) a Castle, which our Ancestors in their own language nam'd Ingelborne,Ingelborne. when at the same time the Saxon petty Kings had their Palace at Caerdurburge, now Brokenbridge, a village scarce a mile from hence. It was known by no other name, but that of Ingelborn for a long time after, until one Maildulphus, Maildulphus. an Irish Scot, a great Scholar, and a man of signal devotion, being delighted with the pleasantness of the wood that grew under this hill, here lived an Hermit: but afterwards setting up a school, and with his scholars devoting himself to a monastick life, he built a little monastery. From this Maildulphus the town of Ingleborn began to be call'd Maildulfesburg, and by Bede Maildulfi urbs, Maildulf's City, which in process of time contracted into Malmesbury. In some Historians and ancient Charters granted to this place, it is written Meldunum, Maldubury, and Maldunsburg. Among Maildulf's scholars Aldhelm Aldhelm. was the most eminent, who being design'd his successor, by the help of Eleutherius Bishop ofWest-Saxonum. Winchester (to whom the ground did of right belong) built here a stately Monastery, of which he himself was the first Abbot, and from him this town in a MS. is called Aldelmesbirig. But this name soon grew out of use, tho' thei memory of that holy man (upon the account of his being Canoniz'd) remains still. Upon his Feast-day there is a great Fair,k at which time a Company of souldiers are usually listed to prevent disorders among such a concourse of strangers. And truly his memory deserveth eternal honour, not only for the sanctity of his life, but also for his Learning, allowance being made for the ignorance of the times he liv'd in. He was the first Saxon that ever wrote in Latin, and the first that taught the Saxons the method of composing Latin verse, and so perform'd what he promis'd of himself in these verses:
The great Aethelstan made this Aldhelm his tutelar Saint, and for his sake endowed the Town with large immunities, and enriched the Monastery with ample Donations; he chose this place for his sepulchre, and the inhabitants shew his monument to this day. From the time of this Aethelstan the Abbey was famous for it's wealth, and here was educated (besides many other learned men) William from this town called Malmsburiensis, William of Malmesbury. to whose learned industry the civil and ecclesiastical History of England are greatly indebted. The town, entirely supported by the abbey, was fortify'd by Roger Bishop of Salisbury, who, when the War broke out between Henry of Anjou and King Stephen, strengthen'd it with walls, and a Castle, which was once in vain besieg'd by King Henry 2.l This magnificent Bishop erected buildings here and at Salisbury, for space very large, for cost very chargeable, for shew very beautiful. The stones are set in such exact order, that the joynts cannot be seen, and the whole structure seems to be but one stone. But the castle, not long after, by the permission of King John, was rased for the convenience of the Monks, that so the abbey might be enlarg'd; which daily increas'd in building and revenues, till the fatal dissolution of Monasteries. Then the lands and riches which had been so many years in gathering, were dissipated; tho' in ancient times they were thought to be the good works of pious Christians, Concil. Aquisgran. penance for sins, and the patrimony of the poor. And the Church it self had suffered the same fate, had not one Stump, a rich clothier, by a great deal of intercession and more money, recover'd it for the use of the Town's folks, who turn'd it into a Parish-Church; and a great part of it is yet remaining [f].
From Malmsbury the Avon runs to Dantesey, Dantesey. which gave name to the Lords of it, Knights, once very eminent in these parts; from whom it descended to the Easterlings, commonly known by the name of Stradlings; and from them to the family of Danvers. Of which Henry Danvers was lately dignified by the favour of K. James with the title and honour of Baron Danvers of Dantesey [g].Baron Danvers. Six miles from hence the Avon receives from the east a rivulet, which runs through Calne, Caln. an ancient little town, on a stony ground, adorned with a neat Church: where, during the contentions between the Monks and [secular] Priests about the Coelibacy of the Clergy,A Synod about the Coelibacy of the Clergy. a great Synod was conven'd A. D. 977. But in the midst of the dispute, the Convocation-house, in which the States of the Kingdom were assembled (the beams breaking, and the timber-frame bursting asunder) suddenly fell to the ground, together with the Bishops and Nobility of the Kingdom; by which fall most were bruis'd, and some kill'd: but Dunstan alone, President of the Synod and of the Monks party, escaped unhurt. By which miracle (for so it was accounted in those times)m the cause of the Monks was probably very much confirmed.
From hence the Avon, now grown bigger, runs to Chippenham, Chippenham. by the Saxons call'd Cyppanham, now only famous for its market, from whence it had it's name: for Cyppan in the Saxon language signifies to traffick, Cyppan, what it is. and Cypman a Merchant; and we yet retain Cheppen and Chappman, or, as the Germans say, Coppman n. In those times it was the Country-house of the Saxon Kings, which King Alfred by his Will bequeathed to his younger daughter. Now there is nothing worth seeing, but the Church, built, as is evident from their Coats of Arms on the Walls, by the Lords Hungerford [h]. Over against this town, tho' at some distance from the river, lies Cosham, Cosham. now a small village, heretofore honour'd with the Country palace of King Ethelred, and the retiring-house of theo Earls of Cornwall. From hence one may see Castlecomb, Castlecomb an ancient castle, famous upon the account of the Walters of Dunstavill, Lords of it6; from whom the Wriothesleys, Earls of Southampton, derive their pedigree. For Petronilla7, the daughter and heir of the last Walter, married Rob. de Montford, and had a son named William, who sold this castle and the rest of his lands, to Bartholomew Badilsmer; from whom it came (as I have heard) to the Scroops, who have held it ever since. But let us now again follow the course of the river, on which lieth Leckham, Leckh [...]. the estate of the noble family of the Bainards, where Roman coins are very often found; as also Lacock p,Lacock where that pious matron Ela, Countess of Salisbury, in her widowhood, built (as she did likewise at Hentonq) a Monastery, A. D. 1232. to the honour of the Blessed Virgin and S. Bernard, in which she devoted her self, soul and body, to the service of God.
The Avon, whose banks are thick set with trees, hath not run far beyond Brumham, once the seat of the Lord8 De [...]. Ama [...]. Samond, before it receives a rivulet from the east, which riseth near the castle De Vies, Devises, or the Vies; the Divisio of Florentius Wigorn.The Vies Dev [...]. The Divisae of Neubrigensis. It was once a noble castle, strongly fortify'd by art and nature, but now ruin'd by the injury of time. This was built at the vast expence of Roger Bishop of Sarum, that it might excell all the castles in England. This man's fortune had advanc'd him from a poor Mass-priest to be the second man in the kingdom. But fortune (as one saith) hath favour'd no man so far, as to exempt him from the fear of losing whatever she gave him. For K. Stephen being angry with him, took from him this castle, and that of Shirburn, together with all his great riches, and so plagu'd the poor old man in prison with hunger and other troubles, that between the fear of death and the torments of life, he was unwilling to live, and knew not how to die. About this time it was very much controverted, whether it is lawful for Bishops, by the Canon-law, to hold Castles? and if this, by permission, was allow'd, whether in troublesome times they ought not to be at the King's disposal? [i].
The Avon conjoyn'd with this rivulet, bends it's course toward the west, and presently another brook from the south runneth into it, which gives name to the house called Broke situated upon it.Baron Broo [...]e This house was heretofore the seat of John Pavely Lord of the Hundred of Westbury, and afterward gave the title of Baron to Rob. Willoughby (because by the Cheneys he was descended from the family of Pavely) when K. Henry 7. created him Peer of the realm; of which King he was a great favourite, and by him, as it is reported, made9 for some time Lord high Admiral. For which reason, he gave ther rudder of a ship for his Cognizance; as Pompey the Admiral of the Roman Navy stamp'd the stern on his medals. But this family was soon extinct; for he left but one son, Robert, Baron Brook, who had by his first wife a son call'd Edward, who dy'd in his father's life-time, and left one daughter, afterwards married to Sir Fulk Grevil; by his second wife he had two daughters, by whom this rich estate came to the Marquess of Winchester, and the Lord Montjoy.
Not far from hence, toward the east, lies Edindon, Edind [...] heretofore Eathandune, where K. Alfred won the most glorious victory that ever was obtained over the ravaging Danes; and drove them to that extremity, that they solemnly swore immediately to depart the land. In this place also, William de Edindon, Bishop of Winchester (a great favourite of K. Edw. 3. who was born here, and from hence took his sirname) founded a College for Canons call'd Bonhommes [k]. Upon a hill a little above, on the same rivulet, stands Trubridge, in old time Truþabrig, that is,Trub [...] a strong or true bridge. But for what reason it had this [Page 89-90] name, does not at all appear. Now it is very noted for the Clothing-trade; and shews the ruines ofſ a Castle, which belongeth to the Dutchy of Lancaster11 [l]. The Avon, being encreas'd by this river, watereth Bradford, [...]radford. in old time Bradanford, (call'd so from the Broad ford) which standeth on the side of a hill, and is built all of stone; where a bloody battel was fought in the Civil wars between Kenilwachius K. of the West-Saxons, [...]n. 652. and Cuthred his Kinsman. Here the Avon leaveth Wiltshire, and entreth into Somersetshire, running toward the Bath [m].
From hence the west limit of this Shire goes directly southward [n] by Longleat, [...]ongleat. the well-contriv'd and splendid house12 (tho' more than once damnified by fire13) of the Knightly family of the Thinnes, descended from the Boteviles [o]. Maiden-bradley, [...]aiden- [...]radley. so named becauset one of the daughters and heiresses of Manasser Bisset, a famous man in his time, being her self a Leper, built a Hospital here for leprous maids, and endowed it with her inheritance: her father had founded a Priory hereu before. Stourton, [...]rons of [...]ourton. [...] Hen. 6. the seat of the Barons of Stourton, who were dignified with this title by K. Henry 6.w at which time a very great estate accru'd to them by a marriage with the heiress of the family of Le Moign or Monk, not Mohun as some have erroneously thought; and from thence their Crest is, a Demi-Monk with a [penitential] whip in his hand. The town took its name from the river Stour, which riseth here out of six fountains, between which [proper] the Stourtons Lords of this place bear for their Arms a Bend Or in a field sable.
By the foresaid Maiden-Bradley glides a rivulet call'd Dever-ril, [...]ver. because like Anas in Spain, and the Mole in Surry, which took their names from thence,x it diveth under the earth, and a mile off riseth up again, and hasteneth to Verlucio, [...]erlucio. a very ancient town, mentioned by Antoninus the Emperor in his Itinerary, which name it hath not yet quite lost, being call'd Werminster, [...]erminster a compound of that old name and the Saxon word Minster, which signifieth a Monastery. Heretofore it had great privileges; for it is recorded in the book which William the Conqueror caused to be made, that nec geldavit nec hidata fuit; that is, it paid no tribute. Now it is only famous for a greaty Corn-market: and indeed it is scarce credible, what quantities of Corn are every week carried hither, and presently sold14 [p].
From this place toward the south, north, and east, all along the middle of the Shire, the Downs are so wide, that there can scarce be any bounds discover'd; from whence they are call'd the Plains, [...]sbury- [...]ns. but thinly inhabited, and heretofore of bad repute for frequent robberies. The south part of them is water'd by two pleasant rivers, the Willey-bourn, the Guilou of Asserius, and the Nadder commonly called Adder-bourn. Willey-bourn having its first rise at Werminster, runneth by Heitesbury or Hegedsbury, the feat of the Barons of Hungerford [q]15, to a village called Willey. Opposite to which is seen a very large military entrenchment, fortify'd with a deep double ditch, and called by the neighbouring inhabitants Yanesbury-Castle. [...]nesbury. From it's figure any one may easily conclude, that it was a Roman Camp. Some think it was Vespasian's Camp, who being Lieutenant of the 20th Legion under Claudius, subdued two nations in this part [of England] to the Roman Empire; and some remains of Vespasian's name are thought to be in Yanesbury [r]16. The Nadder rising in the south border of this County, with a winding streamz creeps like an adder (from whence it seems to have it's name) not far from Wardour a pretty Castle,Wardour Castle. which once belong'd to the ancient family of S. Martins. Now it is in the possession (that I may omit several of its intermediatea owners17) of John Arundel, lately made by King James Lord Arundell of Wardour, Baron Arundel. of whom very honorable mention is to be made, because in his youth he piously went into far countries to serve in the wars against the sworn enemies of Christendom, the Turks; and there, for his singular valour at the storming of Gran, he merited the honour to be made Count of the Empire, 1595 by a Patent from the Emperor Rodolph 2. in these words;Count of the Empire. Forasmuch as he had behaved himself couragiously in the field, and at the siege of several Cities and Castles; and especially had given eminent proof of his valour at the assault upon the water-town near Gran, taking the Flag from the Turks with his own hands; we have created, made, and nominated him, and all and every one of his children, his heirs and lawful issue for ever, of both sexes, true Counts and Countesses of the sacred Empire; and have dignified them with the Title and Honour of a County Imperial, &c.b On the other side of the river is Hach, Hache. not very noted at present, but famous in the reign of K. Edw. 1. for it's Baron Eustace de Hache, Baron of Hache. who was then summoned to Parliament among the rest of the Nobility18.
At the conflux of these rivers, Willey watereth the place from it denominated Wilton, Wilton. once the chief town of the County, to which it gave name. It was in times past call'd Ellandunum; as appears from some ancient Charters, which expresly make mention of Weolsthan Earl of Ellandunum, Ellandunum. that is, of Wilton; and again, that he built a little Monastery at Ellandunum, that is, at Wilton. From this name Ellan, I am partly induc'd to think this river to be the Alanus which Ptolemy placeth in this Tract.Alan riv. At this place Egbert King of the West-Saxons fought successfully against Beorwulf the Mercian A. D. 821. but the battel was so bloody on both sides, that the river was stained with the blood of near relations [s]. Here also A. C. 871. Aelfred fighting against the Danes, was at the first Charge conquerour; but the fortune of the battel changing, he was driven out of the field. In the times of the Saxons it was a very populous place. King Edgar founded here a Nunnery, and (as the Historians relate) made his daughter Edith Abbess. But it is evident from the ancient Charter of Eadgar himself, dated A. D. 974. that the Nunnery was much older: for in it are these words; The Monastery which was built by my great grandfather K. Edward in a noted place by the Inhabitants called Wilton. And we read in the life of Edward the Confessor, Whilst S. Edward was building the Abbey of S. Peter at Westminster, Editha his wife imitating the royal charity of her Husband, laid the foundation of a stately Monastery of stone, instead of the wooden Church at Wilton, where she was educated. The town did not much decay (tho' it was miserably plunder'd by Swain the Dane) until the Bishops of Salisburyc turn'd the Road into the western Countries from it. Since that time it has dwindled by little and little into a small village, only it hath the honour of a Mayor for its chief Magistrate, and the stately house of the Earls of Pembroke built out of the suppressed [Page 91-92] Abbey. But in old time Sorbiodunum Sorbiodunum. was, and now New-Sarum (which arose out of its ruines) is a great obstacle of it's splendor. Antoninus's Itinerary calleth that town Sorbiodunum, which the Saxons afterward named Searysbyrig, and the vulgar Latins Sarum and Sarisburia 19.Old Sarisbury. For the course of the Itinerary, and the remains of the name, evidently shew this, without any remark of mine. And without doubt Searesbirig was derived from Sorbiodunum, the Saxon word Byryg (which denoteth a town) being put in the place of Dunum, Dunum, what it signified with the Gauls and Britains which word the Britains and Gauls usually added to places of lofty situation, as this Sorbiodunum is. So that (as one very well skilled in the Welsh language informed me) Sorviodunum signifieth a dry hill [t], which is a more probable conjecture, than the far-fetch'd derivation of it from Saron in Berosus, or from Severus the Emperour, from whom they call'd it Severia [u]. For it was seated on a high hill, and as Malmsbury saith, The town was more like a Castle than a City, being environ'd with a high wall, and notwithstanding it was very well accommodated with all other conveniences, yet such was the want of water, that it was sold there at a great rate. This gave occasion to the distich, which was made upon Old Sarum by one that lived in those times:
By the great pieces of the Walls and the Bulwarks yet to be seen, it seems to have been a very strong place, and near half a mile in circumference. Kinric the Saxon, after he had fought against the Britains with good success A. D. 553. was the first of the Saxons that won it, andd Canute the Dane damnify'd it very much by fire about A. D. 1003. [w]. It recover'd it's ancient splendour, when by the authority of ae Synod, and the munificence of William the Conqueror, Herman Bishop of Shirburn and Sunning, translated his seat hither; and his immediate Successor Osmund built the Cathedral Church. And the said William 1. after he had made the survey of England, summon'd all the Estates of the Kingdom hither to swear Allegiance to him; at which time, as it is in Domesday book, Salisbury gelded for 50 hides, Money by weight and by tale. and of the third penny the King had xx s. by weight, and of the increase lx lb by tale. This I observe, because not only the Romans, but also our Ancestors, used to weigh as well as tell their money, Not long after in the reign of Richard 1.f; by reason of the insolencies of the garrison-souldiers [x]20, and the scarcity of water21, the inhabitants began to remove, and seated themselves in a low ground, which at the conflux of the Avon and the Nadder, is as it were a rendezvous of many waters, scarce a mile distant toward the south-east. Of this removal Petrus Blesensis maketh mention in hisg Epistles;New Sarisbury. for thus he describes Old Sarum. It was a place exposed to the winde, barren, dry, and solitary; a Tower was there as in Siloam, by which the inhabitants were for a long time enslaved. And afterward, The Church of Salisbury was a captive on that hill: let us therefore in God's name go down into the level: there the vallies will yield plenty of corn, and the champagn fields are of a rich soil. And of the same place the foremention'd Poet thus writes:
And thus described the place to which they descended:
As soon as they were removed, that they might begin at the house of God, Richard Poor the Bishop, in a pleasant meadow before call'd Merifield, laid the foundation of the great Church, a stately pile of building [y]. The which with it'sh high steeple and double cross-isles, by it's venerable grandeur strikes it's spectators with a sacred joy; and was in 43 years space finished at great expence, and dedicated A. D. 1258. in the presence of K. Henry 3. whereof that ancient Poetaster hath these not contemptible verses:
But much better are the verses of the famous and learned Daniel Rogers.
For they say, this Church hath as many windows as there are days in the year, as many pillars and pillasters as there are hours, and as many gates as months. On the south-side of the Church is the Cloyster, as great and of as fine workmanship as any [in England,] to which is adjoyn'd the Bishop's stately Palace; on the north side stands apart from the Cathedral a very strong built and high Bell-tower. This Church in a short time so increas'd in ornaments and revenues, that it maintains a Dean, a Chanter, a Chancellor, a Treasurer, and 33 Prebendaries [z], all very well endow'd; some of which, whom they call Canons Resident, have very good houses not far from the Church: and all these are inclosed with a wall apart from the town. Whilst the Bishop was building the house of God, the Citizens in like manner with great forwardness founded the City, settled the Civil government thereof, supplied every street with a little rivulet of water; and having obtained licence from Simon the Bishop to fortifie it, they threw up a ditch on that side which is not defended by the river. And to such splendour New-Salisbury arrived out of the ruines of Old-Sorbiodunum, that (presently after by the Royal Authority the High road into the West was turn'd thro' this town) it became the second City in those parts, being very populous, abounding in plenty of all things, especially fish; and adorn'd with a very fine Council-house of wood, which standeth in a spacious, well-furnish'd Market-place. But it hath nothing of which it can brag so much as of John Jewell late Bishop of this place, the wonder of his age for Divinity, and a strenuous defender of the Reformed Religion. After this, Old Sarum still decreasing, was in the reign of Henry 7. wholly deserted; so that now there scarce remaineth a turret of the castle; yet for a long time after the inhabitants had left the town, it was the seat of the Earls of Salisbury, about which in the reign of Edward 3. there was a noted controversie.29 Edw. Term. [...] lar. For Robert Bishop of Sarum by vertue of a Writ, [Page 93-94] which our Lawyers call Breve de Recto, [...] Duel a [...] out the Castle of [...]ar [...]m, or as others [...]y [...] Shir [...]. question'd the right of William Montaoute E of Sarum to this Castle. The Earl answered, he would defend his right by Combat [q]. So, on the day appointed, the Bishop brought to the lists his Champion clad in a white garment to the mid leg; over which he had a Surcoat of the Bishop's Coat of Arms: there follow'd him a Knight carrying the spear, and a Page the shield. Presently after, the Earl led in his Champion arrayed after the same manner, accompanied by two Knights bearing white staves. And just as the Champions were about to fight, whilst they withdrew, that their weapons might be examin'd, unexpectedly came a Mandate from the King, that the cause should not then be decided, lest the King should lose his right. In the mean time they compounded, the Earl agreeing to surrender up all his right in the castle, to the Bishop and his successors for ever upon the receit of 2500 Marks [aa].
[...]rls of [...]lisbury. Salisbury had Earls very early, whose pedigree I will not only draw faithfully, buti higher also, out of the history of Lacock. [...]istory of [...]cock. Walter de Euereux Earl of Rosmar in Normandy had by the munificence of William the Conqueror very large possessions in this shire, which he bequeathed to his younger son Edward sirnamed of Salisbury, who was born in England; leaving his other lands in Normandy with the title of Earl of Rosmar tok Walter his eldest son, whose line not long after failed. This Edward of Salisbury was very eminent in the twentieth year of William the Conqueror, and is often mention'd in Domesday book, but without the title of Earl. His son Walter founded a small monastery at Bradenstok, and there in his old age, after he had got a son call'd Patric, who was the first Earl of Salisbury, by Sibilla de Cadurcis or Chaworth, assum'd the habit of a [black] Canon. This Patric the first Earl was slain by Guy of Lusignian, A. D. 1169. in his return from a pilgrimage to S. James of Compostella, and was succeeded by his son William, who died at Paris in the reign of Richard 1. Ela his only daughter (by the favour of the said K. Richard) was married to William Longspee, (so sirnamed from the long sword he usually wore) who was a natural son of K. Henry 2. to whom upon this marriage with Ela, accrued the title of Earl, [...]s of the [...] of Sa [...] and her Coat of Arms, viz. Az. 6 Lioncells Rampant Or. His son was also called William Longspee, with whom Henry 3. being offended, because being signed with the Cross he went to the Holy War without his leave, took from him the title of Earl and castle of Sarum. He notwithstanding being resolv'd on his design, went into Egypt with S. Lewis King of France, [...]h. Pa [...]. 973. [...]051. and fighting valiantly in the midst of his enemies, near Damiata, which the Christians had taken, died in the bed of honour, not long before that holy King was unfortunately made prisoner. He had a son call'd also William, who did not enjoy the title of Earl, and had only one daughter named Margaret, [...]g. [...] p. [...]4. who was notwithstanding call'd Countess of Salisbury, and married to Henry Lacy Earl of Lincoln, by whom she had but one daughter, viz. Alice the wife of Thomas Earl of Lancaster; who being outlawed, K. Edw. 2. seized upon the lands which she had made over to her husband: some of which, viz. Troubridge, Winterbourn, Ambresbury, and other manours King Edw. 3. gave to William de Montacute in as full and ample manner as ever the Predecessors of Margaret Countess of Sarum held them. [...]ds of Patent. And at the same time he made the said William de Montacute, Earl of Sarum; and by the girding on of a sword the said Earldom was invested in him and his heirs for ever. This William was King of the Isle of Man, and had two sons, William, who succeeded his father in his honours, and died without issue22; and John a Knight, who died before his brother, leaving by Margaret his wife, daughter and heiress of Thomas de Monthermer, John Earl of Salisbury,De monte Hermerti. who being a time-server, and conspiring against King Henry 4. was slain atl Chichester A.D. 1400, and afterwards attainted of High Treason. Notwithstanding which his son Thomas was restored to his blood and estate, one of the greatest Generals of his age, whether we consider his pains in all matters of moment, his unwearied constancy in all undertakings, and his quickness in putting his designs in execution; who whilst he besieged Orleans in France, was wounded by a Dart from aè tormento majori. Balist, of which he died, A. D. 1428. Alice his only daughter was married to Richard Nevil,Pat. 20 Hen. 6. 1461. to whom she brought the title of Earl of Sarum, who following the York-party, was taken Prisoner in a battel at Wakefield and beheaded: he was succeeded by Richard his son, Earl of Warwick and Salisbury, who taking delight in dangers, engaged his Country in a fresh Civil War, in which he lost his own life. Isabella one of his daughters married George Duke of Clarence, brother to K. Edw. 4. by whom he had a son call'd Edward 23, who was unjustly beheaded in his childhood by K. Henry 7. and his sister Margaret (to whom the title of Countess of Salisbury was restor'd24) suffer'd the same fate at 70 years of age by the command of Henry 8. For it is an usual practice among Princes, to put to death or perpetually to imprison their kindred upon slight surmizes, which are never wanting; that they and their posterity may be the better established in the Throne. Ann the other daughter of Richard Nevil Earl of Warwick and Salisbury, was wife to Richard 325, to whom after she had born Edward * Prince of Wales, who dy'd young, she her self dy'd, not without suspicion of poyson. From that time this honorary title ceased, until A. D. 1605. the most potent K. James dignify'd therewith Robert Cecil, second son to our Nestor Wil. Cecil, for his prudence and good service to his King and Country, whom (as I have said) he had before honour'd with the titles of Baron Cecil of Essenden, and Viscount Cranburn for his great merits, and industry in promoting the good of the Kingdom. So much concerning the Earls of Salisbury [bb].
Below this City upon the Avon, is seated Duncton Duncton. or Donketon, which is reported to be a very ancient Corporation,Bogo, commonly Beavois. and famous for the seat of Beavois of Southampton, who for his valour, much celebrated by the Bards, is commonly accounted one of the great Worthies.
Salisbury is every way encompass'd with the open plains, unless it be toward the east,Clarendon. on which side it hath the neighbourhood of the large Park of Clarendon, very commodious for keeping and breeding Deer, and once beautified with a royal palace. Of this Park, and the twenty groves therein, Michael Maschertus L. L. D. made these verses:
About six miles northward of Salisbury, on the Plains is to be seen (that I may use Cicero's words) insana substructio, a wild structure.Stonehenge. For within a trench are plac'd huge unhewn stones in 3 circles, one within another, after the manner of a Crown, [Page 95-96] some of which are 28 foot in height, and seven in breadth, on which others like Architraves are born up, so that it seems to be a hanging pile; from whence we call it Stonehenge, as the ancient Historians from it's greatness call'd it Gigantum Chorea, the Giants dance. But seeing it cannot fully be described by words only, I have here subjoyn'd the Sculpture of it.
A The Stones call'd Corfstones, 12 Tonn Weight 24 foot high, 7 broad, and 16 round
B The Stones call'd Coronetts, of 6 or 7 Tonns
C The place where Mens bones are dug up.
Our country-men reckon this among the wonders of the land. For it is unaccountable how such stones should come there, seeing all the circumjacent country want ordinary stones for building; and also by what means they were raised. Of these things I am not able so much to give an accurate account, as mightily to grieve that the founders of this noble monument cannot be trac'd out. Yet it is the opinion of some, that these stones are not natural or such as are dug out of the rock,Artificial Rocks. but artificial, being made of fine sand cemented together by a glewy sort of matter; like those monuments which I have seen in Yorkshire. And this is not so strange: For do not we read in Pliny, that the sand of Puteol: infused in water, is presently turn'd into stone? and that the Cisterns at Rome being made of sand and strong lime, are so tempered, that they seem to be real stone? and that small pieces of marble have been so cemented, that statues made of it have been taken for one entire piece of marble? The tradition is, that Aurelianus Ambrosius, or Usher his brother, erected it by the help of Merlin the Mathematician, to the memory of the Britains there slain by treachery in a conference with the Saxons. From whence Alexander Necham, a Poet of the middle age, in a poetical vein, but without any great fancy, made these verses: grounding them on the British History of Geoffrey.
Others relate, that the Britains built this as a magnificent monument for the same Ambrosius, in the place where he was slain by his enemies; that that Pile should be as it were an Altar erected at the publick cost to the eternal memory of his valour. This is certain, that mens bones are frequently here dug up; and the village, which lies upon the Avon, is called Ambresbury, [...]bres [...]y. that is, Ambrose's Town, where, as the British History tells us, some ancient Kings lye buried: and the Eulogium records, that here was a Monastery of 300 Monks, which was destroyed by a barbarous villain, one Gurmundus [dd]. In this afterward, Alfritha wife to K. Egdar (that she might expiate her crime in killing her son-in-law K. Edw. by penance and good works) built and endowed a stately Nunnery, in which Queen Eleanor, wife to K. Kenry 3. renouncing all royal pomp, devoted her self to God among the Nuns [ee]. Ambrosius Aurelianus, [...]brosius [...]lianus. that gave name to this place, in the wane of the Roman Empire, took on him the Government of Britain (as P. Diaconus reports,) succour'd his sinking Country, and by the assistance of the valiant Arthur repelled the assaults of his enemies: conquering great armies composed of the most warlike nations of Germany; and at length, in a set battel upon these plains he lost his life in the service of his Country. But Gildas and Bede write, that his Ancestors were [...]purâ [...]. Emperors, and slain here; and if so, why may not I positively affirm that he was descended from that Constantine, who in the fourth Consulship of Theodosius the younger, out of hopes that good fortune would attend that name, was chosen Emperor in Britain, and afterward murder'd at Arles25.
About four miles from Ambresbury, on this side of the Avon; [...]arren. is a warren commonly called Everly Warren, where is a great breed of hares, which afford the recreation of Hunting to the neighbouring Gentry. But the number is not so great as that the adjacent inhabitants are forc'd to demand a guard of soldiers against them, as Pliny reports that the inhabitants of the Baleares did; altho' they are alike mischievous to their corn [ff]. Not far from hence is Lutgershall, heretofore the Castle of Geffrey Fitz-Peters the rich Earl of Essex, and Lord Chief Justice of England. Not much higher is Wolfhall, [...]ha [...]l. the seat of the noble family of the Seimours or de Sancto Mauro, who were Lords of great possessions in this County by marriage with an heiress of the Esturmies, [...]y or [...]y. who bore Argent, three Demi-Lions Gul. and had been ever since the time of Henry 2. hereditary Bailiffs and Keepers of the neighbouring Forest of Savernac (which is famous for plenty of game, [...]ac [...] and for a sort of sweet-smelling Fern). In memory whereof, the great Huntinghorn tip'd with silver is yet preserved by the Seimours.
A little more eastward the river Cunetio, by the Saxons called Cynetan, but vulgarly Kennet, m ariseth near a village of the same name; which some would have to be the Cunetio mention'd by Antoninus: but the distance on both sides contradicts this assertion. Here Selbury, a round hill, riseth to a considerable height, and seemeth by the fashion of it, and by the sliding down of the earth about it, to be cast up by mens hands. Of this sort are many to be seen in this County, round and copped, which are call'd Burrows or Barrows, Burrows and Barrows. perhaps raised in memory of the Soldiers there slain. For bones are found in them; and I have read that it was a custom among the Northern People, that every soldier escaping alive out of Battel, was to bring his Helmet full of Earth toward the raising of Monuments for their slain Fellows. Tho' I rather think this Selbury-hill to be placed instead of a Boundary, if not by the Romans, yet by the Saxons, as well as the ditch call'd Wodensdike, seeing there were frequent battels in this country between the Mercians and West-Saxons about their limits; and Boetius, In his Geometry. and the Writers that treat about Surveying, tell us, that such heaps were often raised for Landmarks [gg]26. At the first this River runs27 thro' the fields, in which, stones like Rocks every where appear, (from whence there is a village call'd Rockley, Rockley.) between which there now and then breaks out water upon a sudden in manner of aTorrentis. Land-flood, which the Country-people call Hungerborn, Hungerborn, i.e. a rivulet of Hunger. because it is commonly the prognostick of great scarcity. From thence the Kennet runneth to a town of it's own name, which was called Cunetio Cunetio. by Antoninus, and placed 20 miles from Verlucio. At which distance that old town, called by the new name of Marleborow, heretofore Marleberge, Marlborow. is seated all along the side of a hill from east to west, upon the banks of the river Cunetio. I shall not be very forward to affirm that this new name came from Marga, which in our language we call Marle, and use it to improve our Lands. This is certain, that it lies at the foot of a hill of white stone, which our Forefathers called Marle, before they had borrowed the word Chalk from the Latin Calx. The derivation of this place from Merlin's Tomb is to be ridicul'd, which Alexander Necham, in his book of Divine Wisdom, hammer'd out in this Distich:
The History of the fortune as well as the name of this Cunetio, from the entrance of the Saxons till the Norman times, is wholly buried in oblivion: for in that interval not so much as it's name occurs in our Annals [hh]. In the next Age we read, that John, sirnamed Sine terra or Lack-land, who was afterwards King of England, had a Castle here, which in his rebellion against his brother K. Richard I. was surrendred to Hubert Archbishop of Canterbury. That which it was afterwards most famous for, was, the great Parliament heren assembled, which, by an unanimous consent, made a Law for the suppressing of Riots, which is yet called Statutum de Marleborow. This Castle is now by the injuries of time, nothing but ruines; there are indeed some few remains of the wall of the Keep, and near it is an Ale-house, which hath a Castle for the sign. But the inhabitants brag of nothing more than of the Font, probably ofLapis obsidianus. Touch-stone, in the neighbouring Church of Preshut; in which, as the tradition goes, several Princes were heretofore baptised. And I cannot omit what I have read,o namely, that every Free-man, by an old custom, gives to the Mayor, at his admission, a couple of Beagles, two white Capons, and a white Bull.
On the same side of this river lies Ramesbury, Ramesbury a small village, now only famous for it's pleasant meadows; tho' it was once honoured with the See of a Bishop, who was Diocesan of this County: but this See being joyn'd to Shirburn by Herman the eighth Bishop,Wil. Malmesb. of Bishops. was at last (as I have said before) translated to Salisbury, and carried with it all the reputation from this place; because at Ramesbery there was neither a Chapter of the Clergy, nor any thing for their maintenance. On the other side the river, more toward the East is30 Littlecot, Littlecot. which is to be mention'd upon the account of John Popham Lord of it, who being Lord Chief Justice of the King's Bench, discharges his Office with great applause, as I have said before31.
Hitherto I have surveyed the County of Wilts, which, as it is in Domesday-book, (for I do not think it improper to be taken notice of) paid the King 10 l. for an Hawk, 20 s. for a Sumpter-horse, one hundred shillings and five Ores for Hay. I am wholly ignorant what sort of Money these Ores were,Ore, what. only thus much I have noted out of the register of Burton-Abbey, that 20 Oresp were worth 2 marks of silver.
Earls of Wiltshire.The Earls of this Shire have been but few (tho' of divers Families) besides those of Salisbury, which I have mention'd before. For, excepting Weolsthan before the Norman Conquest,q it had none, that I know of, till Richard 2.'s time, who preferred William le Scrope to that honour: but this man's grandeur continu'd and fell with his Prince: for when that King was dethron'd, this Earl was beheaded. Not many years after he was succeeded by James Butler Earl of Ormond, who was raised to this dignity by King Henry 6. But when the House of Lancaster was in a declining condition, he was attainted; and King Edward 4. conferred this title on John Stafford, younger son of Humphrey Duke of Buckingham, to whom succeeded his son Edward, who died without issue. King Henry 8. afterward dignified with this honour Henry Stafford, descended from the Buckingham-family, who not long enjoying his title, dyed without issue. At last it came to the family of the Bollens by the favour of the same King, who made Thomas Bollen Viscount Rochford (descended from an Heiress of Th. Butler Earl of Ormond) Earl of Wiltshire; whose daughter Ann the King married, which match was unfortunate to her self, her Brother, and her Parents; but lucky for England, because she it was that gave birth to that excellent Princess Queen Elizabeth, Queen E [...] zabeth. who doth merit eternal honour for her excellent management of the Kingdom, and is highly to be admired for many great virtues much above her sex. But when this Thomas Bollen died without issue male, of grief occasion'd by the unhappy fate of his Children; this title lay dormant, until King Edward 6. qualified therewith William Powlet Lord S. John of Basing, See Bi [...] in H [...] shire. whom afterwards he raised to be Marquess of Winchester, and Lord High Treasurer of England, in whose posterity it yet remaineth.
There are in this County 304 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to WILTSHIRE.
a WILTSHIRE, in Saxon Wiltunscyre, and by the Historians of succeeding ages, melted by degrees into our Wiltshire, call'd also Provincia Semerana, and Severnia, or Provincia Severorum, is the largest mid-land County of any in England, as may be easily observed by theAppendix to the 2. Tome of [...]he English [...]torians. ancient computation of it's Hides. For we find that in Wiltysire (as 'tis there term'd) were 4800 hides, which is more by 2000, than any Shire mention'd by that Author. The 39 miles in length, and 29 in breadth, which Spede assigns to it, will be found too little both ways, upon an accurate survey.
[a] Our Author observes, among other advantages, that this County is watered with the Isis, which afterwards takes the name of Thamisis.Thamisis, not from a conjunction of Thame and Isis. An error with which the world is so possess'd, that 'twill be a hard matter to make them part with it; notwithstanding it plainly appears that this river was always call'd Thames, or Tems, before ever it came near Thame. For instance, in an ancient Charter granted to Abbot Aldhelm, there is particular mention made of certain lands upon the east part of the river, cujus vocabulum Temis, juxta vadum qui appellatur Summerford; and this ford is in Wiltshire. The same thing appears from several other Charters granted to the Abby of Malmsbury, as well as that of Enesham, and from the old Deeds, relating to Cricklade. And perhaps it may safely be affirmed, that in any Charter or authentick History it does not ever occur under the name of Isis; which indeed is not so much as ever heard of but among scholars: the common people, all along from the head of it down to Oxford, calling it by no other name but that of Thames. So also the Saxon Temese (from whence our Tems immediately comes) is a plain evidence, that that people never dreamt of any such conjunction But farther, all our Historians that mention the Incursions of Aethelwold into Wiltshire, A. D. 905. or of Canute, A. D. 1016. tell us, that they pass'd over the Thames at Cricklade. For the original of the word, it plainly seems to be British, because one may observe several rivers in several parts of England of almost the same name with it; as Tame in Staffordshire, Teme in Herefordshire, Tamar in Cornwall, &c. And the learned Mr. Llwyd affirms it to be the same with their Tâf, which is the name of many rivers in Wales; the Romans changing the pronunciation of the British (f) into (m,) as the Latin word Demetia, is in Welsh Dyfed.
[b] As for Wansditch, Wans [...] the course whereof is trac'd in the Map, it seems to be so far from having been drawn for a boundary between the West-Saxons and Mercians (as our Author would have it,) that it was probably made long before the settlement of the Mercian Kingdom, viz. by Cerdick the first King of the West-Saxons, or by Kenric his son, against the incursions of the Britains, who even in K. Ceaulin's time (as Malmsbury tells us) made frequent inroads into this County from their garrisons at Bath, Glocester, and Cirencester. And the same Historian informs us, that Ceaulin was routed by the Britains, not (as other writers) at Wodensburgh, but at Wodenesdic; which seems to intimate that it was made before that time, and was then a boundary between the two people.
The rampire and graff of this Wansditch are very large; the rampire on the south-side. And besides this ditch, there are several others of less note still visible upon the plains, especially about Stone-henge; and in theMo [...] Ang [...] Saxon-Charter of lands belonging to Wilton-Abbey, there is mention made of no less than 13 distinct Dikes; so that probably the Saxons might draw them to divide the great Lordships, or for some such purpose.
[c] Upon what ground Mr. Camden places Wodensburge Wod [...] burg [...] upon this Dike, does not appear. There are no remains of such a name in any village near it, except it be Woodborow, three miles south of it: but then there is not the least sign or tradition of a battle fought there. One would rather guess that Wanborow, on the borders of Wiltshire and Barkshire, is the town mention'd by our Historians. For as Wodensdic pass'd into Wansdick, so might Wodensburgh by the same reason be chang'd into Wanburh, or Wanborow. And without doubt this has been formerly a [Page] town of great note, as appears by the quantities of Roman Coins that have been frequently found at it; and the neighbourhood of a Saxon Camp on Badbury-hill, plainly shews that the battle must have been fought hereabouts.
[d] Now to begin with North-Wiltshire; the Thames before it comes to Creeklade, receives from the north a little river call'd Churn, not far from which is Pulton, [...]on. a town within the bounds of Glocestershire, yet belongs to and is reckon'd a part of Wiltshire; where was a Priory of the Order of S. Gilbert, founded in the time of Edw. 1.
After this brook has enter'd the Thames, they go to Cricklade, [...]klade. call'd Creckanford, Cricgelada, &c. and by the Saxon-Annals Creccagelade and Cræccilade; where, (if the Monkish Writers could always be rely'd upon) we might safely settle a Greek school, which they in a manner unanimously affirm to have been founded, or rather restored by that learned Archbishop of Canterbury Theodorus. But those over-credulous Authors seem to have no other grounds besides the bare affinity of names; and to make that a good argument, [...]ecem [...]ptores. [...]4. l. 59. are willing to have it call'd Greklade, which makes their opinion so much the more plausible. How true the matter of fact may be, I shall not undertake to determine, since [...]a Re [...] Alfredi. that point has been already pretty warmly manag'd on both sides. It is certain however that Cricklade has formerly been a town of great reputation; for it appears by the Red Book in the Exchequer, that there once belong'd to it 1300 Hidelands, and it gave name to the Hundred of Cricklade, which is now united to that of High-worth. But if it's Greek-school have nothing to support it, besides the similitude of names; I fancy it may with more reason be deriv'd either from the British Cerigwlâd, i.e. a stony country (to which the nature of the soil does very well agree) or from the Saxon cræcca a brook, and ladian to empty; for here the Churn and Rey empty themselves into the Thames. It has now a Free-school, founded by Robert Jenner Esq and endow'd by him with 40 l. per Annum.
[e] The river Avon is our next guide, call'd for distinction's sake Lower-Avon, probably the Antona of Tacitus, and the Bladon of William of Malmesbury; which at it's first entry into Wiltshire crosses the Foss-way, [...]way. still very plain in this part of the country. From Cirencester it comes into this County near Kemble, [...]well. and so runs west of Crudwell (which gave the title of Baroness to Lady Mary Lucas of Crudwell, whose Father John Lord Lucas [...]r. MS. built here a Free-school, and endow'd it with 20 l. per An.) by Ashley to Long Newnton. Then west of Brokenbridge to Easton-Grey, [...]on. and so not far from Sherston, which appears to have been a Roman station, as well by it's situation near this Consular Way, as by the Roman Coins frequently found at it. Some of the silver ones, viz. of Antoninus, Faustina, Gordianus, and Fl. Julianus are given to Ashmole's Musaeum in Oxford, by Mr. John Aubrey. What it's name was in the Roman times, we have no light in History; but this in all probability was the place of battle between King Edmund and the Danes, A. D. 1016. call'd by the Saxon Chronicle Sceorstan. For as the agreement of the names justifie the conjecture, so do the particular circumstances both of the place and action. The several barrows hereabouts, put it beyond all dispute that there has been a battle; and the Inhabitants have to this day a tradition, that it was against the Danes. Now this of K. Edmund's lays best claim to it, both because Sherston is nearer to Pen (where the last battle before this was fought) than any town yet assign'd to be the place; and also because the account that Florence of Worcester has left us of that matter agrees very well to it. He expresly says, his Sceorstan was in Wiccia, within the borders whereof this Sherston is. For there is no doubt, but Wiccia extended on both sides the Severn as far as the Kingdom of Mercia did: now Camden has observ'd out of Ethelwerd, that the Avon was the limit between Mercia and the Kingdom of the West-Saxons; and the learned [...]cil. [...]1. p. Sir Henry Spelman tells us, that Aldhelm Abbot of Malmsbury was present at a Mercian Synod; so that without doubt this part of Wiltshire belong'd to Mercia, and consequently this Sherston might be in Wiccia. And this is confirm'd by that passage in Brompton, where he says, that the cities of Cirencester and Chippenham were in the south part of the Country of the Wiccians.
From Sherston the Fosse passes by Alderton and Littleton-Drew; and so east of West-Kington, W Kington Aubr. MS in which parish on a Down call'd Ebdown, is a single-ditch'd Camp suppos'd to be Roman. Hence it goes to Castle-comb, and so west of Slaughtenford, Slaughtenford. the very name of which denotes what the constant tradition of the Inhabitants has handed down, concerning a great slaughter of the Danes in this place. Their Camp might probably beIbid. that double Entrenchment in Bury-wood between Colern and North-Wraxall; not far from which the Fosse enters Somersetshire at the Shire-stones.
[f] The Avon having cross'd the Foss-way runs directly to Malmsbury, Malmsbury call'd by the Saxon Annals Mealdelmesbyrig; which Geoffrey of Monmouth, without any warrant from authentick History, affirms to have been a town in the Roman times, and built some hundreds of years before their coming into this Island. However, 'tis certain that early in the Saxon times it was a Castle belonging to the Bishops of the West-Saxons; and in all probability this is the place from whence the Charters from Eleutherius to Aldhelm are thus dated, Actum publicè juxta flumen Badon. As for the Altar-monument in the Church, said to be King Aethelstan's, it is so far from having been erected immediately after his death, that it seems to have been put up long since the Conquest, and possibly since the Reformation. For William of Malmsbury tells us, that this King was interr'd under the High-Altar, whereas the monument is in the Nave of the Church; and grass grows where the Choir was. A. D. 956. after the Monks had had possession of this Monastery 270 years, they were turn'd out by the command of King Eadwy, and secular Priests put in their room; but the Monks were restor'd by King Edgar. Bishop Herman would willingly have translated the Bishop's See hither, but was prevented in his design by the diligence of the Monks. So that theMonast. Angl. T. 1 [...] p. 97. Abingdon Historiographer is under a mistake, when he tells us, that the seat of the Bishop of Barkshire and Wiltshire was at Malmsbury; and Radulphus de Diceto, when he calls Odo Bishop of Ramesbury, Bishop of Malmsbury: as also Gervasius Tilburiensis, when he says that S. Aldhelm had the city of Maidulf, that is Scireburn. The Abbey here exceeeded all the rest in Wiltshire, both in riches and honour; the Lord Abbot sitting in Parliament as Peer of the Realm.
Robert Jenner Esq Goldsmith of London, the 1 Car. 1. built an Almshouse here for 8 persons, and endow'd it with 40 l. a year.
[g] From hence the Avon goes to Dantesey, Dantesey. of which place Henry Lord Danvers was made by K. Charles 1. Earl of Danby. He it was who built the Physick-garden in Oxford; and among many other acts of charity, founded here an Alms-house and Free-school. Upon the attainder of his brother and heir Sir John Danvers, the town was given by K. Charles 2. to James then Duke of York, whose second son James was created Baron of Dantsey; it was afterwards part of the dowry of Queen Mary, and since the Revolution belongs to the Earl of Monmouth.
The Avon bending it's course southward from hence, runs near Bradenstoke, Bradenstoke. without doubt the same town to which Aethelwold carry'd his devastations, in the year 905. At which time, Bromton says, he put to military execution all Brithendune, (i.e. all in Bradon-forest) as far as Brandestok, or, as Higden more rightly calls it Bradenestoke; so that Polydore Virgil, Holinshed, Speed, and our late Historians, are very much mistaken in asserting this to be Basingstoke in Hamshire.
Somewhat lower, the Avon receives the Caln, Oldbury-hill. a little river rising at the bottom of Oldbury-hill, Aubr. MS. on which is a large oval camp with double trenches, possibly Danish.
[g 2.] For the town of Caln, Caln. 'tis probable it arose out of the ruines of the old Roman Colony on the other side of the water near Studley, where Roman Coins are frequently found. It was one of the Palaces of the West-Saxon Kings; and at the time of the Conquest enjoy'd great privileges, one whereof was, that it never gelded. For says Domesday, Cauna nunquam geldavit, ergo nescitur quot sunt hidae ibidem.
Not far from Caln is Cummerford, Cummerford. probably the Cynemæresford of the Saxon Chronicle, call'd by Florence of Worcester Kimeresford; where Aethelmund, Earl of Mercia, making an inroad into the country of the West-Saxons, was met by Werstan Earl of Wiltshire; between whom was a bloody battle, wherein both Commanders lost their lives; but the victory fell to the Wiltshire-men. Upon second thoughts, the circumstances of that action agree more exactly to this place, thanGlossar. ad Chron. Sax. to Kempsford in Glocestershire; for setting aside, that the Saxon name is more easily melted into Cummerford, Higden tells us it was out of the bounds of Mercia, Ethelmundus (says he) fines suos egressus, usque ad vadum Chimeresford; and if so, it cannot be in Glocestershire. If there is (as I have been told) a large entrenchment near this Cummerford, it puts the matter so much the more beyond dispute.
[h] The Avon having receiv'd this little river, goes forward to Chippenham, Chippenham. call'd by Bromton, Urbs Chipenham, one of the chiefest towns in the Kingdom of the West-Saxons, and so very often mention'd in the Histories of those times. That the Church there was founded by one of the Hungerfords (as our Author observes) I am afraid is hardly grounded upon any clear authority. The Chappel indeed, yet call'd Hungerford's Chappel, might possibly be founded by Walter Lord Hungerford; for 21 Henr. 6. he obtain'd a licence for the founding of a Chantry in the Chappel of our Lady, within the Parish-Church of this place. Queen Mary in the beginning of her reign granted her Charter to this Corporation, which consists of a Bailiff and 12 Burgesses.
[i] Next is the Devises, Devises. call'd by Westminster Visae, and by Walter Hemingford Wysae. That this town was built by Dunwallo King of the Britains, is scarce probable: neither is it easie to imagine that it should be inhabited by the Romans; tho' on the utmost part of Rund-way hill that overlooks the town, there is a square single-trench'd Camp, which seems to point out to us the presence of the Romans in those parts. The Annotator upon the life of King Alfred, has told us upon the authority of Tradition, that the Castle here was built by that King; but we have ground from the best Historians to believe it was built, or at least repair'd by Roger Bishop of Salisbury. Speed says, It was one of the goodliest Castles in Europe; and Holinshed, That it was the strongest hold in England. Which made Ralph Fitz-Stephen, in the war between King Stephen and Mawd the Empress, after he had possess'd himself of this Castle, boast, that by the assistance of it he would subject all the Country between London and Winchester. The government of it was formerly look'd upon to be such an honourable post, that it has been accepted by the greatest Lords. It was not so much demolish'd, but that some shew of fortifications were left, till the Civil Wars; when it was besieg'd more than once. And Sir Ralph Hopton's being enclos'd herein by Sir William Waller, occasion'd that memorable battle call'd Rundway-fight, from the Down upon which it was fought, July 13. 1643. Now, all the Fortifications are dismantl'd, and the very top of the Keep (which Leland calls a work of incredible cost) dug up by the Gardiners. The town is a very populous Corporation, consisting of two great Parishes; and is govern'd by a Mayor, Recorder, &c.
Not far from hence his Heddington, Heddington. which without doubt was a Roman town, as is evident from the foundations of houses that have been dug up here for a mile together, and the finding of silver and copper coins of several Roman Emperors; some of which are given by Mr. John Aubrey to the Royal Society, and to Ashmole's Musaeum in Oxford. These circumstances, and the situation of this Heddington on the exact road between Bath and Marlborough, made the learned Commentator on [...]. Alfred's life conclude this to be the Verlucio of Antoninus, plac'd by him 15 miles from Aquae Solis, and 20 from Cunetio. But Heddington not being above 12 from Bath, and but 10 from Marleburgh, we mustSee [...] ward. look for Verlucio in some other place.
South from hence is Steeple-Lavington or East-Lavington, commonly call'd Market Lavington, Laving [...] East. from the great Corn-market weekly kept here on Wednesday. How long it has been a market-town does not precisely appear; but in the 35 Henr. 6. William de Beauchamp Lord St. Amond bequeath'd his body to be bury'd in the Chappel of the Chantry of this place, and at his death, which happen'd in the same year, was seiz'd, among several other Lordships in Wiltshire, of Cheping Lavington; which, according to Mr. Camden's observation in Chippenham, is the same with Market-Lavington; and if so, it has been a market above these 200 years at least. The manour belongs now to the Right honourable James Earl of Abingdon; as doth also the next village call'd West-Lavington, or Lavington Episcopi, where his Lordship hath a very pleasant seat, finely accommodated with a park, gardens, a grotto, and several other conveniences. It came to him by marriage with the late incomparable Lady Eleonora, one of the daughters of Sir Henry Lee by Ann his wife, to whom it descended as heiress to the Danvers's and Danteseys, who had been Lords of this manour for many generations, two of whom founded and liberally endow'd the Free-school and Almshouses in this town.
In this Parish is Littleton-Painell, L [...]ttl [...]-Pain [...]. now an obscure village, tho' heretofore a market-town; which privilege was obtain'd for it 12 Edward 2. by John Lord Paganel or Painel.
The next river the Avon receives is the Were, which runs not far from Westbury, Westb [...] a small Mayor-town that probably arose out of the ruines of the old Roman one, about half a mile north; which without doubt was once very famous, as appears by the great quantities of Roman coins that have been here found. If the Verlucio of Antoninus were settl'd here, the distances from Aquae Solis and Cunetio better agreeing in this town than any other, would justifie such a conjecture. And Holinshed calls the rivulet that runs near it Were: which might give name to the town seated upon it, Verlucio. The new name Westbury, is purely Saxon; and it was natural enough for them to give this name to a town which they found to be the most considerable in these western parts; calling it by way of eminency Westanbyrig; in the same manner as they did the great neighbouring wood known by the name of Selwood: for some Copies of the Saxon Annals read it simply Westanpuda, others Westan-Sele-puda.
[k] Near Westbury is a village call'd Leigh, or Ley, Ley. which is most probably the place where K. Alfred encamp'd the night before he set upon the Danes at Eddington. For the name comes very near it, it being an easie mistake for the Saxon Scribe to write Æglea for æt Lea: here is also a field call'd Courtfield, and a garden adjoyning encompass'd with a moat; and a tradition goes that here was a palace of one of the Saxon Kings. Clay-hill by the sound might bid fair enough for this Aeglea; Aeg [...]. but then it would have been a piece of very ill conduct in King Aelfred to have pitcht his tent upon such a high place, visible from all parts of the Country, when he intended to surprize the enemy. So that it is more likely he march'd along this vale, which was then over-spread with woods that were a part of Selwood-forest. Beside, Clay-hill shows no marks of any trenches, or such like; and is too far from Eddington, where the fight was in the fields between the town and Bratton-castle; which without doubt was the fortification whither the Danes fled after their rout, and held out a siege of 14 days. For it is seated upon the extremity of a high hill which commands all the country, being encompass'd with two deep ditches and rampires proportionable. The form of it is oval, in length 350 paces, and almost 200 broad in the widest part. Near the middle of it is a large oblong barrow, 60 [Page] paces long, prabably the burying-place of some of the Danish Nobility here slain. Within this vast Entrenchment, there have been several pieces of old Iron-armour plough'd up. It hath but two entrances, fortify'd with out-works; the one toward the south-east, opening to the plain; the other toward the north-east, leading directly down to Eddington.
[l] North from hence is Trubridge, [...]dge. the Saxon name whereof, our Author tells us, is Truþabrig, and upon that interprets it a firm or true bridge. Where he met with the name, I know not; but 'tis much more probable, that the right name is Trolbridge; for, beside the natural melting of l into u, there is a Tithing in the Liberty and Parish call'd Trol, and a large Common near it of the same name. Also in a Manuscript History of Britain (which is a Compendium of Geffrey of Monmouth) the place is written Trolbridge; where 'tis said to have been built by Molmutius.
[m] Next is Bradford, [...]dford. a town of good note for the cloathing trade; which beside the fight mentioned by Mr. Camden, was famous in the Saxon times for the Monastery built here by Aldhelm, and destroy'd in the Danish wars; as also upon the account of a Synod probably held here, A. D. 964. in which S. Dunstan was elected Bishop of Worcester.
[n] The west limit of this Shire runs by Farley-castle, [...]ley- [...]tle. which tho' in Somersetshire, yet part of the Park belonging to it lyes in Wiltshire: and in this part, not many years ago, there was dug up a Roman pavement of Chequer-work, a piece whereof was given to Ashmole's Musaeum in Oxford by Mr. Aubrey.
[o] Southward from hence upon the western limit, we go by Longleat, [...]gleat. the noble seat of the honorable Thomas Thynne Lord Viscount Weymouth; to Mere, [...]e. so call'd probably from being a Mearc or Land-mark; for it is near the borders of Wiltshire, Somersetshire, and Dorsetshire. In the neighbourhood of this town and Stourton, are 4 Entrenchments, one of which in Stourton-park is double-ditch'd, and call'd by Leland Whiteshole-hill, probably the Camp of the Danes in one of the battels at Pen.
[...]min [...][p] Upon the little river Deverill, is Werminster, by Camden thought to be the Verlucio of Antoninus: but that opinion is not back'd with Coins or other remains of the Romans that have been discover'd there; and beside, we have shewn before, that Westbury is a more probable place. Concerning it's state in the Saxon times, I think our Historians are silent; only we may observe, that upon the Downs on the east-side of the town, there are two Camps; the one call'd Battle-bury, having double-works, and so probably Danish; the other Scratchbury, a square single trench'd fortification.
[q] About 3 miles to the east, is Heitsbury, [...]sbury. where Walter Lord Hungerford, Lord High Treasurer of England, founded an Hospital for 12 poor men and one woman; with an allowance for a Chaplain, who was likewise to be Warden, and to teach a Free-school. But this being not fully perform'd in his life-time, Margaret, his son Robert Lord Hungerford's widow, effected it; and it remains to this day.
[r] Farther down upon the river Willey is Yanesbury, [...]esbury. which 'tis something strange our Author should affirm to be a Roman Camp (which were for the most part square, and had only a single vallum,) when he tells us at the same time, this has a doubleditch; a way of encamping not observ'd by any Author to have been us'd by that nation. It's being so very like Bratton-castle, only something bigger, and of an oval form, would induce one to believe it Danish. The length of it is 360 paces, and it has three entrances, one toward the north, another toward the south, and a third (which is the principal, and fortify'd with out-works after the Danish fashion,) toward the east.
[...]on.[s] From hence the Willey runs to Wilton, prov'd to have been formerly call'd Ellandune from the Records quoted by our Author, from the [...]m. 2. [...] 8 [...]1. Monast. Anglicanum, and from Brian Twine's MS. Collections; where we find, Ellendinia, or Ellenduna, that is Ellenge donne, or a place naked, desolate, or wild; from hence is Wyldton or Wylddoun: and he tells us immediately after, that he takes Ellendune to be Salisbury-plain. But in what language is it that Ellan or Ellendge signifie wild, or in what age was Wilton call'd Wyldton or Wyld-down? Notwithstanding these authorities, the circumstances of King Egbert's battel with Beornwulf, make the opinion suspicious; for 'tis not probable that Egbert, the most powerful Prince in the Island, should let an enemy make an inroad into the very heart of his kingdom without any opposition. And 'tis as unaccountable, why none of our Historians should tell us the battel was fought at Wilton, when it is plain the town was known by this name long before that time. To place Ellendune here, is perhaps as unreasonable, as Bromton's settling it in Middlesex. But if the authority of theMonast. Angl. tom. 1. p. 31. Winchester Annals may be allowed in this case, the controversie is clearly enough decided. For they tell us expresly, this fight was at Ellendun, [...] [...]d [...]h [...] a mannour belonging to the Prior of Winchester: now this can be no other place than Elingdon near Highworth (upon the borders of the Mercian kingdom,) which once belong'd to the Monastery of S. Swithin.
[t] We come next to Salisbury, Salisbury. the old Sorbiodunum; Sorbiodunum. which our Author, upon the information of a Welshman, affirms to signifie a dry hill, in that language. Yet those who are Masters of that Tongue, cannot discover any thing in it, that both answers the sound of Sorbiodunum, and can possibly be wrested to that sense. The Saxons indeed, seem to have drawn their Searesbyrig from this quality of the soil, searan in that language signifying to dry; but without having any eye to the old Sorbiodunum: which I take to be a more probable original than either Hollingshed's derivation of it from Salisbury in Germany, or John Ross's, from a tower built here by Julius Caesar, which he says might be call'd Caesaris burgus, and so corrupted into Sarisburge; as Caesar Augusta in Spain into Sarogosa. But setting aside that Julius Caesar did not pursue his victories thus far, that denomination is not warranted by any Author; and to be sure Antoninus would have us'd the true genuine Roman name, if there had been any such.
[u] How it came by the name Severia, Severia. I cannot certainly tell; but 'tis possible enough, that Severus the Emperor living most of his time in Britaine, might sometimes reside here; and either by re-edifying the town, or doing some other memorable thing at it, might derive upon it that name, which occasion'd the calling of this County Severnia, and Provincia Severorum. However, that it was much frequented in the times of the later Emperors, appears by the Coins of Constans, Magnentius, Constantine, and Crispus, found there.
[w] In the Saxon times,It's Condition in the Saxon times. between Cynric's taking it, and K. Egbert's age, we meet with no mention of it: but this Prince very often resided here; and K. Edgar call'd here a Parliament or Great Council A. 960. After the Conquest it flourish'd mightily; the Norman Kings very commonly living, and sometimes holding their Parliaments here.
[x] The insolence of the Garrison,Cause of the removal. hinted to by our Author, was, no doubt, one great cause of their removing. For the Castle, which formerly belong'd to the Bishop, was upon the difference between King Stephen and Bishop Roger, seis'd by the King, who plac'd a Governour and a garrison in it. But that being look'd upon as a violation of the Liberties of the Church, gave occasion for frequent differences; by which the Bishop and Canons were induc'd to the thoughts of removing into a place where they might be less disturb'd. This was projected by Herebertus Pauper (the brother and immediate predecessor of Richard Poor) in the reign of Richard 1. But that King dying before the design could be effected, and the turbulent reign of K. John ensuing, they were forc'd to lay aside the thoughts of it till Henry 3.'s reign, wherein it was reviv'd and completed by Richard Poor. Not but Mr. Camden is in the right when he tells us that the citizens, for the causes by him mention'd, began by degrees to remove from Old Sarum in the reign of Richard 1. And this serves to correct those, who think that the Bishop and Clergy [Page 107-108] remov'd first, and that the Citizens follow'd; or, at least, that they remov'd about the same time.
[y] The foundation of the New-CathedralNew Cathedral. was begun the 4th of the Calends of May, A. D. 1220. for the more effectual carrying on whereof, we find that Bishop Poor in his Constitutions, recommended to all Priests in his Diocese, the putting dying persons in mind of a charitable contribution to this intended fabrick. But a distinct account of those matters may in due time be expected from Mr. Tanner's larger History of this Church and County; whose great abilities, and the model he has already drawn of it, encourage us to hope for a more complete and accurate Work than any thing of that kind the world has yet seen: the Undertaker not contenting himself with a bare account of Families, but so contriving the whole, as to include both British, Roman, Saxon, and Danish Antiquities; with something of Natural History.Number of Prebends.
[z] Only, I cannot omit taking notice of an error observ'd in our Author by the present worthy and learned Dean of this place. It has (says Mr. Camden) 33 Prebendaries: and when he wrote this, 'tis very possible there might be but 33 Prebends actually full; tho' the succession about that time is deliver'd so imperfectly, that there is only room for conjecture. But whatever might cause the mistake, 'tis certain when Mr. Camden wrote, that there were 41 single Prebends in this Church, besides four annex'd to the Dignities of the Bishop, Dean, Chancellour, and Treasurer. When the Church of New-Sarum was built, it had 50. besides those annex'd as aforesaid; but by suppression of 5, dissolution of 2, and alienation of two more, they were reduc'd to this number. There were 5 more alienated, but 5 others were erected in their stead, of which Mr. Camden himself had that of Ilfarcomb for above 30 years.
[aa] The other ornaments of this place, in short, are, the Cloyster (said by Leland to be the most magnificent in England,) the Library built by Bishop Jewel, with the Chapter-house of a large octagonal figure, and sustain'd only by a small marble pillar in the middle; as also the College built and endow'd by Bishop Ward for 10 Minister's widows.
In that part of the Suburbs of Salisbury call'd Harnham, stood the College de Vaulx, which was built by Giles de Bridport, Bishop of this place, An. Dom. 1260. for the entertainment of several Scholars who retir'd hither upon account of some disturbances at Oxford. Here they study'd University-Learning; and having a testimonial from their Chancellour of their progress in Learning, frequently went to Oxford and took their Degrees. And so they continu'd even till Leland's time, who speaking of it, has these words: That part of these Scholars remain in the College in Saresbyri, and have two Chaplains to serve the Church there dedicated to S. Nicholas: the residue study at Oxford, &c.
Beyond this is the great Bridge call'd Harnhambridge, Harnhambridge. which was built by virtue of a privilege that Richard Poor obtain'd of Henry 3. when New-Sarum was incorporated, viz. Quod ad emendationem ejusdem civitatis, vias & pontes ad eam ducentes mutent, & transferant, & faciant sicut viderint expedire, salvo jure cujuslibet. In pursuance of which power, Robert Bingham, his next successor, built this stately Bridge, An. 1245. which I the rather take notice of, because it made such a considerable alteration in Wilton, and this place; for by bringing the great Western road this way, the first presently decay'd, and the latter (which by the by,Vid. p. 200. & Monast. Angl. t. 1. p. 197. Matthew Westminster reckons as a County of it self distinct from Wiltshire) dayly improv'd.
[bb] The Earldom of this place, which was bestow'd upon the Cecils in the reign of James 1. has continu'd in that family ever since, and is now possess'd by James of that name.
Not far from this place is West-Deane, West-Dean. the seat of Sir John Evelyn Knight, of the Surrey-family; and now devolv'd to a daughter, is in the possession of the Right honorable Evelyn Earl of Kingston.
[cc] Going along with the Avon, we pass by Langford, Langford. the stately seat of the honorable Henry Hare, Viscount Colerain in Ireland, a great admirer of Antiquities; then by Clarendon, Clarend [...] in the Park whereof are the footsteps of two Royal Palaces, King-manour and Queen-manour. Besides the famous Parliament held here, temp. Hen. 2. there was another summon'd to meet here by King Edw. 2. Anno 1317. but the differences at that time between the King and the Barons were so high, that nothing of any moment was transacted. This place was honour'd in the time of Charles 2. by giving the title of Earl to Edward Hide, Baron of Hindon, Viscount Cornbury, and Lord Chancellor of England; who dying at Roan in Normandy, was succeeded by his eldest son Henry.
Not far from Clarendon is Farle, Farle. where Sir Stephen Fox, one of their Majesties Commissioners of the Treasury, out of a respect to his native place, has founded a Hospital for 6 old men and as many old women; with a Master who is to teach a Free-school here, and to officiate in the Church, which he also built from the ground a new, (in room of an old ruin'd Chappel) and made it Parochial.
Northward of this is Frippsbury, Fripps [...] a very great entrenchment of a rude circular form, it's Diameter containing 300 large paces; it is single-trench'd, but the ditch is deep and the rampire high. Only, about 80 paces within the outer circumvallation, is a deep trench without a rampire. It has only two entrances, one by east and the other on the west; and there is some probability of it's being Saxon.
[dd] About 7 miles north of New-Salisbury is Stone-henge; Stone-henge. a piece of Antiquity so famous, as to have gain'd the admiration of all ages, and engag'd the pens of some very considerable Authors. 'Tis of it self so singular, and receives so little light from history, that almost every one has advanc'd a new notion. To give the several conjectures, with some short remarks, is as much as the narrow compass of our design will allow. But not to hunt after such uncertainties, and in the mean time pass over what lays before our eyes; we will premise a description of the place as it now stands, much more distinct than what Mr. Camden has left us. It is situated on a rising ground,Stone-henge [...] scrib [...]e environ'd with a deep trench, still appearing and about 30 foot broad. From the plain it has had three entrances, the most considerable lying north-east; at each of which was rais'd on the out-side of the trench two huge stones gate-wise; parallel whereunto, on the inside, were two others of less proportion. After one has pass'd this ditch, he ascends 35 yards before he comes at the Work it self, which consists of 4 Circles of Stones. The outward Circle is about 100 foot diameter, the stones whereof are very large, 4 yards in height, 2 in breadth, and 1 in thickness. Two yards and a half within this great Circle, is a range of lesser stones. Three yards farther is the principal part of the work, call'd by Mr. Jones The Cell, of an irregular figure made up of two rows of stones; the outer of which consists of great upright stones in height 20 foot, in breadth 2 yards, and in thickness one yard. These are coupl'd at the top by large transome stones like Architraves, which are 7 foot long, and about three and a half thick. Within this was also another range of lesser Pyramidal stones of about 6 foot in height. In the inmost part of the Cell, Mr. Jones observ'd a stone (which is now gone) appearing not much above the surface of the earth and lying toward the east, 4 foot broad and sixteen foot long; which was his suppos'd Altar-stone.
And so much for the structure and dimensions of the Monument; only it may in general be observ'd, that the stones are not artificial, as Mr. Camden and some others would perswade us, but purely natural, as Mr. Jones, p. 35. has asserted. The opinions about it may be reduc'd to these 7 heads; 1. That it is a work of the Phoenicians, as Mr. Sammes in his Britannia conceits; a conjecture that has met with so little approbation, that I shall not stay to confute it. 2. That it was a Temple of the Druids long before the coming in of the Romans; which Mr. John Aubrey, Fellow of the Royal Society, endeavours to prove in his Manuscript Treatise, entitl'd Monumenta Britannica. 3. That it was an old Triumphal British Monument, erected to Anaraith the Goddess of Victory, after a bloody battel won by the illustrious [Page 109-110] Stanings and his Cangick Giants, from Divitiacus and his Belgae; and that the Captives and Spoils were sacrific'd to the said Idol in this Temple. An opinion advanc'd (upon what grounds I know not) in an anonymous MS. writ about the year 1666, and now in the hands of the learned Mr. Andrew Paschal, Rector of Chedzoy near Bridgewater. 4. That it was a monument rais'd by the Britains in memory of Queen Boadicia; advanc'd by the Author of Nero-Caesar. 5. That it was a Temple built by the Romans to the God Coelum or Terminus, of the Tuscan order; is Mr. Jones's, in his ingenious Conjecture upon this subject. 6. That it was the burial-place of Uther Pendragon, Constantine, Ambrosius, and other British Kings; or as others would have it, a monument erected by Ambrosius in memory of the Britains here slain. 7. That it was a Danish monument, erected either for a burial-place, a trophy for some victory, or a place for the election and coronation of their Kings.
[...]nehenge [...]itish.These are all the opinions have been advanc'd about it. And in general, I should think one need make no scruple to affirm that it is a British monument, since it does not appear that any other nation had so much footing in this kingdom, as to be Authors of such a rude and yet magnificent pile. For, to pass by the Phoenicians; that it could not be built by the Romans, is evident from the rudeness of the whole work. So that (as [...]en. Brit. S. Mr. Aubrey has very well observ'd) whilst Mr. Jones pleases himself with retrieving a piece of Architecture out of Vitruvius, he abuses his reader by a false scheme of the whole work. For the Cell is not of an exact Hexagonal figure, but very irregular, and comes nearer a Heptagon; so that the whole work cannot be form'd upon the basis of four equilateral triangles, as Mr. Jones suppos'd. Neither are the entrances into the trench so regular and so equidistant, as that Author would make them. Till these and some other doubts (which may be rais'd from the order of the building) be resolv'd, and till we are assur'd from good authority, that the Romans us'd to build such stupendous piles, 6 or 7 miles from any of their Stations, without any Inscription or any Roman coin ever found near them; it cannot be safe to close with Mr. Jones, tho' his book otherwise be a learned and ingenious piece.
Danish.Nor could it be built by the Danes, as for many other reasons, so particularly because 'tis mention'd in some Manuscripts of Ninnius, who, as every body knows, wrote almost 200 years before the Danes were Masters of any considerable part of this Island. Other arguments that make against this, may be had from Mr. Webb's Vindication of Stonehenge restor'd, in which he hath endeavour'd with a great deal of Learning, to defend his father-in-law, Mr. Jones's Scheme; tho' that be in it self false.
One great argument by which Mr. Jones establishes his own opinion, is, that 'tis a thing altogether improbable, the Britains could build such a Monument. But the contrary is evident from the fortifications of Caratacus's Camp; from the vast stones mention'd by Dr. Plott to be in or near the British city or fortification by Wrottesley in Staffordshire; and from the parcels of stones (not unlike Stonehenge) that are in some parts of Scotland and Wales, whither the Romans and Danes never came. 'Tis true, those monuments have not their Architraves, (which Stonehenge has not only in the stones round the Cell, but also on the great stones of the utmost circle;) and this makes it probable, that Stonehenge was built after the Romans came in, and in imitation of some of their structures; tho' as to the general part of the work, it appears to have been inartificial, and savours of their primitive rudeness. For that the Britains, among other parts of humanity and neat living, learn'd something of Architecture from the Romans, is plain from the life of Agricola.
[...]henge [...]at endIn that other point, the occasion upon which it was built, 'tis easier to confute those opinions that have already appear'd, than to deliver a true one. There is no authority to convince a man of the truth of what Nero Caesar, or Mr. Paschal's MS. have laid d [...]wn; and 'tis hard, to assent to the later British Writers, who tell us 'twas the sepulchre of the British Kings, or else rais'd in memory of the Britains here massacr'd by the Saxons. For, not to mention the improbability of what those Authors have deliver'd, they tell us farther, that the Kings bury'd, or Britains martyr'd in this place, were Christians. Now 'tis strange, if so, there should be no Cross, nor any other token of the Christian Faith, upon this monument. What reason can be given why the surviving friends of these Princes and Noblemen should not be so careful of their memory, as they of the same age were of King Arthur's, in whose monument at Glassenbury was found so distinct an Inscription? But what makes more against this opinion, are the ashes and pieces of burnt bone here frequently found; by which it is plain, it was no Christian burialplace; since sacrifices and the custom of burning the dead grew out of use, upon the receiving of the Christian Faith.
For the name;Name of Stonehenge. Leland's opinion that the British one Choir gaure should not be translated Chorea gigantum, but Chorea nobilis, or else that gaure is put for vaure, which makes it Chorea magna; is probable enough. But the true Saxon name seems to be Stanhengest (and so it is writ in theTom. 1 [...] p. 97. Monasticon, out of a Manuscript of good authority.) from the memorable slaughter Hengist the Saxon here made of the Britains. For tho' 'tis not very probable th [...]t they were erected by Ambrosius in memory of the Britains, yet without doubt that treacherous slaughter was committed at or near this place. If this Etymology may be allow'd, that receiv'd derivation from the hanging of stones, may be as far from the truth, as that of the vulgar, Stone-edge from Stones set on edge. However, it is not like that by the Heeþanne Byrgelse mention'd in the Saxon Chartulary of Wilton-Abbey, Stone-henge is to be meant, as the Editors of the Monasticon would have it. For not only the words may be attributed to any barrow rais'd by the Romans or Danes (the latter especially who are often call'd in the Saxon Annals Haeþene men, and accordingly by Latin Writers Pagani;) but also the bounds of those places where this Paganorum sepulchretum is noted for a Land-mark, could never extend so far by a great many miles as to Stone-henge.
[ee] But now it is time to pass over the river, upon whose banks is Ambresbury, Ambresbury. call'd by Matthew Westminster Pagus Ambri, famous for the Monastery of 300 Monks, founded here by Ambrosius on purpose that they should pray for the souls of those that were slain by the treachery of Hengist: as also for being the burial-place of Quinever wife to the victorious King Arthur, whose tomb was found here within this last Century, and this Inscription on the wall in massy-gold letters R. G. A. C. 600. the antiquity of which is very suspicious, not only because by this computation she must have liv'd almost 50 years after K. Arthur; but also because several Historians of good credit affirm that she was bury'd at Glassenbury. Here was a Synod held in King Edgar's reign; and A. D. 995. Elfrick was elected Archbishop of Canterbury at this place. It enjoy'd great Privileges at the time of the Conquest; for in Domesday-book we find, Amblesbury nunquam geldavit, nec hidata fuit. In the year 1177. the Abbess and 30 Nuns were for their incontinence and loose lives expell'd, and dispers'd into other Religious Houses, to be kept under stricter discipline; whereupon King Henry gave this Monastery to the Abbey of Fontevralt, and so a Convent of those Nuns were sent over the same year, and admitted into full possession of this Abbey. After, it came to be in great repute, and not only Q. Eleanor was Nun here; but also Mary, daughter of K. Edw. 1. and 13 Noblemen's daughters were veil'd here on Assumption-day A. D. 1285.
[ff] Next is Everley Everley. or Eburlegh, the country-seat of King Ina, above which in the way to Lurgeshall, on the highest hill in Wiltshire, call'd Suthbury-hill, is a vast fortification encompass'd with two deep ditches, and of an oval figure. All along the declivity of the hill, there runs a deep trench ditch'd on both sides, made probably to secure their communication with some watering place in the neighbouring Bourn. It [Page 111-112] certainly appears to have been a Danish Camp, whereby they seem to have commanded all this part of the Country; and 6 or 7 barrows in the plain beneath may be thought to preserve the memory of a battle here.
Near this place is Escourt, Escourt. where (not far from a great Causey suppos'd to be a Roman Vicinal way) there was dug up last summer a large earthen vessel with two lesser pots in it, 1693 one of which was full of ashes, or bones. The largest of these might probably be anRigaltii observat. in Auctores Agrarios. Obruendarium of the Romans, wherein they inclos'd their Vascula Cineraria, &c.
About four miles north of this place is Great-Bedwyn, which in the Saxon timesMonast. Angl. T. 1. p. 97. Hist. Abend. was a Metropolis of the bounds of Cissa, a Viceroy of Wiltshire and Berkshire under the King of the West-Saxons. This Cissa built a Castle in the south part of that city, and call'd it Cisse, the ditches of which are yet to be seen. Here it was that Wulfere and Escwin fought a bloody battle, An. 675. and the place has been lately honour'd, by giving to the world the most famous Physician of his time Dr. Thomas Willis. Not far from hence eastward is Tokenham, Tokenham. the best seat of his Grace the Duke of Somerset.
Being now return'd to the banks of the Avon, we meet with Uphaven, Uphaven. for which Peter de Manly procur'd a weekly market of Henry 3. by presenting to him a Palfrey. About a mile to the west is a large irregular Camp call'd Casterley: Casterley. it has but a single trench, and the name seems to point out to us something of Roman.
About 2 miles north-west is Merdon, Me [...]don. which might probably enough be the Meretune or Meredune of the Saxon Annals, famous for the battle between King Etheldred and the Danes. For here remain to this day the marks of entrenchments, and the largest barrow in these parts, except Silbury; together with a tradition of a sight, and of some great man's being bury'd under the barrow.
[gg] But Silbury Silbury. is the largest and most uniform barrow in this County, and perhaps in all England. Upon what account it was rais'd we have no light from antiquity; the tradition is, that King Sill or King Silber was here bury'd, which if compar'd with History, comes nearest to Ceol King of the West-Saxons, who might possibly be slain hereabouts, as his Uncle and Predecessor Ceaulin was slain at Wodensdike; unless one should say that it comes from sel great and beorg a hill or barrow. And since our Author from this hint makes a digression about Barrows, Several sorts of Barrows. we may also take notice that there are several sorts of them upon these Downs. 1. Small circular trenches with very little elevation in the middle. 2. Ordinary barrows. 3. Barrows with ditches round them. 4. Large oblong barrows, some with trenches round them, others without. 5. Oblong barrows with stones set up all round them. There are grounds to believe that few or none of these are land-marks, as Mr. Camden would have them.
About half a mile from Silbury, is Aubury, Aubury. Aubr. Monument. Britan. MS. a monument more considerable in it self, than known to the world. For a village of the same name being built within the circumference of it, and (by the by) out of it's stones too; what by gardens, orchards, inclosures, and such like, the prospect is so interrupted, that 'tis very hard to discover the form of it. It is environ'd with an extraordinary Vallum or Rampart, as great and as high as that at Winchester; and within it is a graff of a depth and breadth proportionable: from which Mr. Aubrey inferrs, that it could not be design'd for a fortification, because then the Graff would have been on the outside. From the north to the south port are 60 paces, and as many from the west port to the east. The breadth of the Rampart is 4 perches, and that of the graff the same. The graff has been surrounded all along the edge of it, with large stones pitch'd on end, most of which are now taken away; but some marks remaining give one the liberty to guess they stood quite round.
From this place to West-Kennet, Aubr. ibid. West-Kennet. is a walk that has been enclos'd on each side with large stones, only one side at present wants a great many, but the other is almost, if not quite entire; above which place, on the brow of the hill, is another Monument, encompass'd with a circular trench, and a double circle of stones, four or five foot high, tho' most of them are now fallen down; the diameter of the outer circle 40 yards, and of the inner 15. Between West-Kennet and this place is a walk much like that from Aubury thither, at least a quarter of a mile in length.
About 80 yards from this monument, in an exact plain round it, there were some years ago great quantities of humane bones and skeletons dug up; which probably were the bones of the Saxons and Danes slain at the battle of Kennet, A. D. 1006.
In the plough'd field near Kennet, stand three huge upright stones, call'd the Devil's coits; The D [...] coits. which (ifHist. of Oxfordsh ch. 10 S Dr. Plot's opinion be true) may be British Deities.
Upon the south-side of the Kennet, on the east part of the Martensall-hill,Martensal [...] is a single-trench'd quadrangular Camp; the form whereof argues it to be Roman, and a brass Coin of Constantine which was found near this hill, strengthens the conjecture.
On the north side of the Avon there are barrows, &c. scattered all over the Downs, a particular account whereof may be expected in the design'd History of Wiltshire. That large oblong barrow in Munkton-field, call'd Milbarrow, Milbarr [...] is more especially remarkable, as being environ'd with great stones about 6 or 7 foot high. And as in this, so in all other circumstances, it is so like those whichLib. 1 [...] Wormius describes, that there is no doubt, but it was the Sepulcher of some Danish Commander.
About four miles north from hence is Barbury-castle, Barbury-castle. seated on the top of a high hill, and encompass'd with a double ditch; the vast fortification whereof, the barrows on the adjacent plain, the similitude of names, the course and time of the Saxon Victories, with all other circumstances, seem to point out this as the Beranbyrig, where Kynrick King of the West-Saxons and his son Ceaulin, fought against the Britains, in the year 556. Besides, the modern name of this place comes a great deal nearer to Beranbyrig, than Banbury doth, where Mr. Camden fixes that battle. For it is observable, that (an) when it is in the second syllable of a place's Saxon-name, is generally left out in our modern pronunciation. So Baddanbyrig is now Badbury, Merantune now Merton, Ottanford now Otford, Exanceaster now Excester. Nor does it appear in the least probable, that the Saxons should have carry'd their Conquests so far as the borders of Northamptonshire by that year. The name of Banesbyrig us'd by our Author is not to be found in any Copy of the Saxon Chronicle; so that an argument drawn from thence is of no force.
[hh] Our next place is Marleburh, Mar [...] by the Saxon Annals call [...]d Maerlebeorge, probably the Cunetio Cune [...] of Antoninus. For the Castle seems to have been a Roman work, by the brass Roman Coins found in shaping the Mount, now belonging to the Duke of Somerset, which was contriv'd out of the Keep of the Castle. Notwithstanding our Author's assertion, it was probably of some note in the Saxon-times, as appears by the reverse of aV [...] fied. [...] n. 3 [...]. Saxon Coin, on which is engraven CVH NET TI. and the learned Annotator's observation, that it is to be meant of Cunetium. After the Conquest, the Castle here was often besieg'd in the Civil Wars.
The place has afforded the title of EarlEar [...] to James Lord Ley, Lord High Treasurer of England, created Febr. 5. 1 Car. 1. to whom succeeded his son and grandson; but the latter being slain without issue in the sea-sight against the Dutch, 1665. the honour came to William his Uncle, who dy'd without issue. It has of late been conferr'd upon John Lord Churchill, who now enjoys it.
Continuation of the EARLS.
The honours mention'd by our Author in his conclusion of the Earls, have been ever since successively enjoy'd by the Pawlets; and lately encreas'd by the title of Duke of Bolton in Yorkshire, which Charles of that name at present enjoys.
More rare Plants growing wild in Wiltshire.
Agrifolium baccis luteis nondum descriptum Phyt. Brit. Yellow-berried Holly. By Warder-castle belonging to the Lord Arundel. This I take to be rather an accidental variety of Holly, than a distinct species. It hath also been found elsewhere, as at Wiston in Sbffolk.
Filix foemina odorata Phyt. Brit. Sweet-scented Female Fern. Somewhere about the Marquess of Hartfords's forest of Savernake, which I remember the old Earl took so much notice of, that he caused a fair inscription to be made in his garden-pond, at his house of Totnam near it, to direct to it. Mr. Stonehouse. This may be enquired into by those Herbarists that live hereabouts.
Gramen caninum supinum longissimum nondum descriptum Phyt. Brit. Long trailing Dogs grass. By Mr. Tuckers at Madington some nine miles from Salisbury, with which they fat hogs, and which is four and twenty foot long. We are not yet satisfied what sort of grass this might be; and recommend the inquisition thereof to the industrious and skilful Herbarists of this Countrey.
Gramen geniculatum aquaticum majus & minus Park. who blames Casp. Bauhine for referring this to the Ischaemon, calling it Gramen dactylon aquaticum. He tells us, they both grow in sundry places of England, but have been especially observ'd, the greater to grow about Wilton, and a great meadow lying among the bridges at the town's end; and the other at Warminster, both in this County. I fear they were neither of them well known to Parkinson, and wish they do not lose their labour that search for them in those places.
Nasturtium sylvestre Erucae affine C. B. sylv. Valentinum Clusio J. B. Park. Eruca Nasturtio cognata tenuifolia Ger. Cresse-Rocket. Found by Mr. Lawson on Salisbury plain not far from Stone-henge.
Onobrychis seu caput gallinaceum Ger. vulgaris Park. foliis viciae, fructu echinato major C. B. Polygalon Gesneri J. B. Medick Vetchlin or Cockshead, commonly but falsly call'd Saint-foin. Its said to grow on the further end of Salisbury plain [...]: and likely enough it may, though I never hapned to see it there, because the soil seems to be of the same nature with Gogmagog hills and New-market heath, on the borders whereof it grows plentifully.
Polygonatum vulgare Park. Solomon's Seal. See the Synonymes in the Kent. Cat. In a bushy close belonging to the Parsonage of Alderbury near Clarenden, two miles from Salisbury. Park. p. 699.
Polygonatum humile Anglicum D. Bobert. Dwarf-English Solomon's Seal. Found by Mr. Philip More, Gardiner of Grays-Inn, in the Woods of Wiltshire.
HAMSHIRE.
NEXT to Wiltshire is that Countrey, which by the Saxons was call'd315 Hanteschyr, now commonly Hamshire [a]; the inward part of which without doubt belong'd to the Belgae; that which lies along the sea-coasts, to the Regni, an ancient people of Britain. It is bounded on the West by Dorsetshire and Wiltshire, on the South by the Ocean, on the East by Sussex and Surrey, on the North by Barkshire. 'Tis a County that is very fruitful in Corn, and in many places well wooded; rich in herbage, and has all sea commodities, being well situated by it's many creeks and havens for all sort of traffick. It is thought to have been the first that was reduc'd to the power of the Romans; for our Histories report, that it was conquer'd by Vespasian; Vespasian. and there are sufficient grounds to believe it. For Dio tells us, that Plautius and Vespasian, when they were sent by the Emperor Claudius against the Britains, divided their forces into three several parties for the greater convenience of landing, for fear they should have been more easily repulsed, if they had attempted a Descent all at one place. And from Suetonius we learn, that Vespasian in this expedition engaged the enemy 30 times, and brought under the Roman yoke the Isle of Wight, which lies opposite to this County, and two other valiant People; for which victories by land, and his happy voyages at sea, Valerius Flaccus thus complements Vespasian, and makes him more prosperous than Julius Caesar:
And Apollonius Collatius Novariensis writeth thus:
How in this war Titus rescu'd his father Vespasian from an imminent danger, when closely besieg'd by the Britains, and how a snake twisted round the General at that time, without doing him any harm; which he interpreted as an omen of being afterward Emperor: learn from Dio and Forcatulus.
But falling to my design, I shall begin with the west-side of this County, and having first survey'd the sea-coasts, and the rivers that there fall into the Ocean, I shall then pass to the more inland parts.
Near the western bounds of this County runs the gentle stream of the Avon, River Avena, or Avona. which as soon as it enters into Hamshire, meets with the ford of Cerdick, call'd formerly Cerdicks-ford, Cerdicks-ford. b afterwards Cerdeford, and now by contraction Chardford; from Cerdick a valiant Saxon. For in this place the famous Cerdick engaging the Britains, gave them so signal a defeat, that he not only enlarged the limits of his own government, but left it easie for posterity to maintain his conquests. When before this, in the year of our Lord 508. in a very sharp engagement,Natanleod. or Nazaleod. he had conquer'd Natanleod, a potent King of the Britains, with great numbers of that People; who is by others call'd Nazaleod; and from his name a small tract of land reaching up to this place was call'd Natanleod, as we read in the Saxon Annals: in the search after which place I have been very curious, but cannot yet find the least footsteps of that name [b]. Nor indeed can I imagine who that Natanleod was.Whether Natanleod and Aurelius Ambrosius was the same person Yet 'tis most certain that at the same time Aurelius Ambrosius in these parts had many conflicts with the Saxon forces, and with various success: and yet this great man is never mention'd in those Annals of our Saxon Ancestors; who, as I observe, have been forward enough in reciting those battles, wherein they had themselves the advantage, but mention none of those wherein they were losers; betraying too great a partiality to their own cause. Hence the river runs along by Regnewood, or Ringwood, Ringwood. in Domesday book call'd Rincewed, which was that Regnum, Regnum. a town of the Regni, mention'd by Antoninus, as we may believe both from the course of the Itinerary, the remainder of the old name, and the sense of the present. For Ringwood by the Saxon addition seems to signifie The wood of the Regni. That this was formerly a place of great eminence, seems probable from the adjacent Hundred which derives it's name from thence; but 'tis now only famous for a good market. The Avon running from hence, takes in the [Page 115-116] river Stour, which comes out of Dorsetshire; and at the conflux of these two, there stands a small populous market town, now called Christchurch Christchurch. from the Church so dedicated; but heretofore, from it's situation between two rivers,Twinham. Twinamburne; upon the same account as the Interamna in Italy. It was formerly strengthen'd with a Castle, and adorned with an ancient Church of Prebendaries; which being first built in the Saxon age, was in the reign of William Rufus restored by Ralph Flammard Bishop of Durham (who had been Dean of that Church,) and richly endow'd by Richard de Rivers Earl of Devonshire, to whom King Henry 1. gave this place in fee; and so continued in great repute to the time of Henry 8. and that fatal Fall of Monasteries. Below this town, the Stour and the Avon joyning in one chanel, empty themselves into the sea at one mouth, which Ptolemy call'd the mouth of the river Alaun; The river Alaun. and very rightly. For I can scarce believe that Avon was the proper name of this river, since that word is an appellative, and the Britains call'd rivers in general by that name; but I rather think it was of old called Alaun, because there still remain some marks of that word in the villages upon it, such as Allinton, Allingham, &c. [c]. On the east-side of this river, William the Conquerour destroy'd all the towns, villages, and churches; and turning out the poor inhabitants, made a forest for wild beasts of more than thirty miles in circuit, which the English in that age call'd Ytene, we at this day New Forest; New-Forest. of which, Walter Mapes, who liv'd in the next age, writes thus: The Conqueror took away much land from God and men, and converted it to the use of wild beasts, and the sport of his dogs; by which he demolish'd 36 Mother-Churches, and drove away the poor inhabitants [d]. This he did either to make a more easie access for his Normans into England (for it lies opposite to Normandy) in case there should be a new insurrection in this Island after his suppos'd Conquest of it; or to indulge himself in hunting; or to raise money by methods tho' never so unjust. For he, more merciful to beasts than to mankind, appointed a most grievous pecuniary mulct, and other more severe penalties, to be inflicted on those who should trespass on his game. But divine vengeance was not long wanting to this impious project of the King's:Example of Divine Vengeance. for Richard his second son, and William Rufus King of England another of his sons, both lost their lives in this Forest; the latter being casuallyc shot with an arrow by Walter Tirrel; and the other poisoned by a pestilential blast. And Henry his grandchild by Robert his eldest son, while he was here eagerly pursuing his sport, was caught by the head in the boughs, and there ended his life; to teach us that the crimes of parents are often punish'd upon their childrens children. Of this Forest, there are extant some Verses of John White Bishop of Winchester; which though they falsly attribute the making of this Forest to William Rufus, yet because many readers are pleased with them, I am content to insert them in this place.
He calls it Rus Beaulense, because nigh this place King John founded a small Monastery called Beaulieu, Beaulieu. from it's pleasant situation; which, even in our fathers memory was very famous: for here was an inviolable sanctuary,Sanctuary. and a safe refuge for all criminals; and our forefathers thought it a most unpardonable sin to take from hence the most bloody murderers or traitors, that fled hither for protection. But sure when our ancestors did in several parts of England erect these sanctuaries, or Temples of Mercy (as they call'd them,) they seem rather to have followed the example of Romulus than of Moses,Exod [...] 2 [...]. Joseph. lib. Anti [...]. who commanded that those who were guilty of wilful murder should be taken from the altar, that they might be put to death; and appointed a city of refuge only for them who should by chance slay a man without lying in wait for him [e].
But that so great a tract of ground as this Forest is, might not lye defenceless and expos'd to the enemy, Hen. 8. began to secure it with Castles; for in that neck of land that runs farthest into the sea, from whence there is the shortest passage over to the Isle of Wight, he built Hurst-Castle, Hurst Castle. which commands the sea on every side. And more westward,Calshot Castle. he built another strong Fort, called vulgarly Calshot instead of Caldshore, to secure the entrance of South-hamton-Bay [f]10. For here, by the great distance of the two shores, and by the opposite situation of the Isle of Wight, is made a very commodious Harbour,Mouth of the river Trisanton. which Ptolemy calls the mouth of the river Trisanton, in my opinion ford Traith Anton, that is, the Bay of Anton; for Ninnius an ancient Author, calls it almost by the same name, the mouth of the Trahannon. The river that runs into this bay, which we now call Test, was in former times, as we learn from the Lives of the Saints, named Terstan; and that it was before called Ant, or Anton, the towns which lay upon it, Antport, Andover, and Hanton, would almost persuade us. So far am I from thinking that it was ever so called from the Roman Hammon there killed; which yet Geoffry of Monmouth delivers in his romancing way; and is follow'd by a Poet, who has this passage concerning that Hammon:
On this Port is situated the town of South-hanton, South [...]ton near which, to the north-east, stood once another town of the same name, which was the Clausentum Clausen [...] of Antoninus, as seems probable by the distance from Regnum on one side, and Venta on the other: and as Trisanton signifies the Bay of Anton, so Clausentum signifies in British the Port Entum; for I have learnt, that Claudh imply'd the same among the Britains as [...] did among the Greeks, that is, a Haven made by casting up Banks of earth. That this place was called Hanton and Henton, no one need question; because in the book wherein William the Conqueror register'd his survey of England, the whole County is expresly call'd Hantscyre, and in another place Hentscyre; and the town it self, from its situation southward, South-anton [g]. What the condition of the ancient town was, is difficult to determine; but it was situated in that place where is now the Field of St. Maries, and reach'd as far as the harbour; and seems to have extended it self on the other side the river. For a little higher, just opposite to Bittern, Bittern. Francis Mills, a worthy person who lives there, shewed me some rubbish, pieces of old walls, and the trenches of an ancient Castle half a mile in compass, which at full tide is three parts surrounded with water. The Antiquity of it is so sufficiently attested by the digging up of Roman Coins, that if it was not the Castle of the ancient Clausentum, you may easily judge it to have been one of those forts which the Romans erected on the southern coasts (as Gildas tells us) to prevent the Saxon piracies. When all parts were miserably harrass'd and weaken'd in the Danish wars, then did the Old Hanton fall a prey to them in the year 980, and in the time of William the Conqueror (to use the expression of his own Book) the King had in that town only 80 men or tenents in Demesne. But [Page 117-118] within these 200 years, when King Edward 3. and Philip of Valois contended for the Kingdom of France, it was burnt by the French. Out of the ashes whereof, there presently sprang up a more conveniently situated town, that which now remains, between two rivers; famous for the number and neatness of it's buildings, for the richness of inhabitants, and resort of merchants [h]: fortified with a double ditch, strong walls, with several battlements; and for a better defence to the harbour, there is a strong Castle built of square stone upon a high-rais'd mount, by Richard 22. That action of the most powerful Canute King of England and Denmark, reproving the baseness of a flattering Courtier, who pretended that all things would obey his royal will and pleasure, was in this place, and is well worth our mention. [...]he [...] [...] Canute. When he came (says Henry of Huntingdon) to shore, he commanded a chair to be set for him, and said to the sea flowing up to him, Thou art under my dominion, and the ground on which I sit is mine, nor has any yet disobey'd my orders, without severe punishment: therefore I command thee not to come upon my ground, nor to wet the cloaths or the feet of me thy Lord and Master. But the disrespectful waves presently came up, and wet his royal feet: upon which he step'd back, and said, Let all the inhabitants of the world know, That the power of Monarchs is a vain and empty thing, and that no one deserves the name of a King, but he whose will, by an eternal law, the Heaven, Earth, and Sea obey. Nor would he ever after suffer the Crown to be put on his head, &c.
Of those rivers between which this town is plac'd, the western one, (now call'd Test, but formerly, I think, Anton,) rising out of the Forest of Chute, runs first to Andover, [...]ndover. in Saxone Andeafaran, that is, the Ferry or passage of the river Ande; where, in the yearf 893. Aethelred K. of England, when the Danes ravaged all his kingdom, that he might bless his harrass'd nation with a safe and settl'd peace, adopted Anlaf the Dane; [...]nlaf ad [...]pted by [...] Aethel [...]ed. tho' this league of friendship was soon broke; for so great a respect and honour could not restrain that barbarous foreigner from his usual rapines [i].3 From hence this river runs near Whorwel, where Queen Aelfrith built a Monastery, to expiate her heinous crime in vowing to kill King Edward her son-in-law, and to atone for the murder of her former Husband, the noble Earl Athelwold, whom King Edgar, upon an invitation to go a hunting, did here murder; because he had put a trick upon him in his love-intreagues, and had by ill arts obtain'd from him this Lady Aelfrith, who was the greatest beauty of her age. After this the Test takes in another small stream call'd Wallop, [...]all [...]p. or rather Wellop, that is (if we interpret it from our own ancient language) a little fountain on the side of a hill; which gives name to the ancient family of Wallops, Knights, who live near it. Hence the river runs in search of Brige [...]ge. or Brage, an ancient town, by Antoninus plac'd 9 miles from the old Sorbiodunum; at which distance, between Salisbury and Winchester, not far from its own banks, it finds a small country village call'd Broughton; and if the old Brage was not at this place, I am of opinion, that it was entirely demolish'd when William the Conquerour converted these parts into the forest before mention'd. Next, Rumsey, [...]umsey. in Saxon Rumseg, (where King Edgar built a Nunnery, the Church whereof is still standing) is visited by this river4, which presently falls into South-hampton-bay at the Vadum Arundinis, as Bede calls it, which he interprets Redford; but now, from the bridge where the ford was, instead of Redford, 'tis call'd Redbridge; [...]dbridge. where, in the infancy of the Saxon-Church, stood a Monastery, whereof one Cymberth was Abbot, and baptised (as Bede tells us) two young Brothers of Arvandus petty King of the Isle of Wight, just before they were to be murdered: for when Cedwalla the Saxon invaded that Island, these two boys made their escape, and hid themselves at a little town called ad Lapidem; till being betrayed, they were killed at the command of Cedwalla. If you ask where this little town ad Lapidem stood, I should guess that 'twas Stoneham, a small village next to Redbridge, as the name it self seems to prove very naturally. The other river which runs on the east-side of South-hampton, seems to have been call'd Alre; for a market town on the banks of it, not far from the lake out of which it rises, is now call'd Alresford, i.e. the ford of Arle. Which place (to use the words of an old Register of the Church of Winchester) the religious K. Kinewalc with great devotion gave to the Church of Winchester, after he had receiv'd the Christian Sacraments from Bishop Birinus, at the beginning of Christianity, in those parts. In the year 1220.A book of waverly Monastery. Godfrey Lucy, Bishop of Winchester, renew'd the market here, and call'd the place New-market, perhaps in respect of the old Alresford that lies near it. But this new name did not last long with the people, in whose power lies the use of words and names. Nigh this place lies Tichborn, Tichborn. of which, I must not omit to mention that it has given name to an eminent and ancient family.
On the western bank of this river lies the famous city of the British Belgae, which Ptolemy and Antoninus call'dg Venta Belgarum, Venta Belgarum. the Britains to this day Caer Gwent, the old Saxons326 Wintancester, the Latin Writers commonly Wintonia, and we Wintchester. Wintchester. Yet there are some Writers who pretend that this was the Venta Simenorum, and give Bristol the honour of being the Venta Belgarum: but that there was no such People as the Simeni in this Island, I shall prove when I come to the Iceni. In the mean time, if they would confirm this their conjecture, by seeking any where else for the towns which Antoninus places near to this Venta, let them be as accurate as they can, they will find nothing to their purpose.
The original of Venta some fetch from Ventus, others from Vinum, and again, others from Wina a Bishop;Qui bonae menti litarent. who might be asham'd of such trifling derivations. I should rather subscribe to the opinion of our country-man Leland, who derives the word from the British Guin or Guen, that is, white, as if it signified Caer Gwin, the White City. And why should it not? since from this same colour the old Latins gave name to the cities Alba Longa and Alba Regia; the Greeks to Leuca, Leucas, and other places. For this Venta (as also two other towns of the same name, Venta Silurum, and Venta Icenorum) is situate in a soil of Chalk and whitish Clay.
This city, no doubt, was very famous in the Roman times [k]; for it is here the Roman Emperors seem to have had theirTextrina sua sacra. Imperial Weaving-shops; this city being the chief of all the British Ventae, and lying nearest Italy. For in the Notitia, there is mention made of a Procurator or Governour of the Cynegium Ventense or Bentense in Britain;The Cynegium of the Roman Emperors in Brit. Gynaecium. which Jacobus Cujacius, that most eminent Civilian, reads Gynaecium, and interprets it the Royal Weavery, in hisParatitla. Paratitles to the Codes. Guidus Pancirolus is of the same opinion; and writes, that these Gynaecia were appointed for weaving the cloaths of the Emperor and Army, for making of sails, linnenStragula. shrouds, and other necessaries for the furniture of their mansions, or quarters. Yet Wolphgangus Lazius thinks that the Procurator here took care of the Emperor's dogs.British dogs. And this indeed is certain, that our dogs have been preferable to all others in Europe; insomuch that (as Strabo witnesses) our dogs have served as soldiers, and the ancient Gauls us'd them in their wars; and they were bought up by the Romans for their sports in the Amphitheatre, and the other pleasures of hunting: for they were (as Strabo says) [...], that is, naturally made for hunting. Hence Nemesianus,
And Gratius thus mentions their goodness and their value:
The Greeks also were acquainted with, and highly esteemed that kind of Dogs amongst us, which was called Agasaeus, Agasaeus. Gasehound, a British Dog. and we yet term a Gasehound; as Oppian will tell you in his first Book of his Cynegeticks:
Which Bodinus does thus render in Latin:
Mastives. Claudian likewise speaks thus of our Mastiff-dogs:
But pardon this digression.
In this city (as our Historians relate) in the times of the Romans,Constans from a Monk made Caesar. liv'd that Constans the Monk, who was first made Caesar, and afterwards Emperour by his father Constantine; and who usurped the purple in opposition to Honorius, out of a conceit that his name would prove successful. For long before this (as Zosimus speaking of that time, delivers it) there were as well Cities as Villages full of Colleges of Monks, Monasteries in Cities. who before had led a solitary life in mountains and woods, and the remoter places, from whence they derive their name. That old piece of wall still to be seen, of great strength and thickness, towards the west-gate of the Cathedral Church, seems to be the reliques of this old College. But the Monk, who was here declared Caesar, after he was taken hence, did by death soon suffer the vengeance due to his father's ambition, and his own affront to Religion. During the Saxon Heptarchy, tho' this place was once or twice very much harrass'd, yet still it recover'd, and was the Palace of the West-Saxon Kings, adorn'd with magnificent Churches, and honour'd with an Episcopal See; as also endow'd by King Ethelstan with the privilege of six money-mints. In the Norman times it very much flourish'd, and the Archives (or custody of all publick Records) were in it. Thus it continu'd long in a good condition, only suffer'd by one or two accidents of fire, and was plunder'd by the insolent souldiers in the Civil War between King Stephen and Mawd the Empress. Hence our Poet Necham, who liv'd in that age:
But all these losses were sufficiently repair'd by King Edward 3. when he settled here a publick Mart for Cloth and Wool, which we commonly call the Staple. The Staple What figure this City made in former ages, is not easie to imagine; which (as the same Necham writes)
At this time the City is pretty populous, and well water'd by the divided streams of the river; extending lengthways from East to West, and contains about a mile and a half within the circuit of it's walls, which have six gates, and the passage to each for a considerable way is Suburbs. At the south-side of the west gate, stands an ancient Castle, which has often been besieged; but never so straitly, as when Maud the Empress maintain'd it against K. Stephen, and at last a report was spread of her death, and she put in a Coffin to deceive the enemy, and so was carry'd off [l].K. Arthur's round Table. Of the Round Table which now hangs up, and which the common people take for King Arthur's Table, I shall observe no more than this, that it plainly appears to be of a much later date. For in former ages, when those military exercises call'd Torneaments Torneaments. (made use of to train up their Soldiers) were much in fashion; they had these kind of round tables, that there might be no dispute for precedency among the noble Combatants: and this seems to be a very ancient custom.Lib. 4. Deipnosoph [...]t. For Athenaeus tells us, that the old Gauls did sit at round Tables, and that their Armour-bearers stood at their backs with their shields. Almost in the middle of the city, only a little more southward, Kenelwalch, King of the West-Saxons, after the College of Monks in the Roman age was destroy'd, built here a Church, as Malmesbury writes, very splendid for those times; in the track whereof was afterwards erected a Cathedral Church of the same model, tho' more stately. In this See, from Wina, Bishope of Winche [...]ter whom that Kenelwalch made first Bishop of it, there has been a long series of successors no less eminent for wealth and honour than for piety and devotion5; and by a peculiar privilege are Chancellors to the Archbishop of Canterbury, and Prelates of the Garter. Some of these at great expence have beautify'd and enlarg'd this Church; particularly Edington and Walkeling; but above all Wickham, who with incredible cost built the West part of the Church, from the Choire; a neat and curious piece of work: in the middle of which, between two pillars, is his own monument. The Church has been accordingly dedicated to new Patrons, Amphibalus, Peter, Swithin, and lastly to the Holy Trinity, by which name it is at present call'd. Among the Saxons it was in great repute, for being honour'd with the Sepulture of some of their Kings, whose bones were gathered by Richard Fox Bishop, and put into little gilded Coffins, which with their several Inscriptions he placed upon a wall that runs along the upper part of the Quire. It was formerly call'dh Ealden-mynster, i.e. the old Monastery or Minster, to distinguish it from the more modern one,i Neƿan-mynster, i.e. New Minster, which King Aelfred founded; and to build the Offices belonging to it, bought of the Bishop a certain peice of ground, for every [Page 121-122] foot whereof he paid one Mark, according to the publick Standard. This new College, as well as the old one, was first founded for marry'd Priests, who were afterwards expelled by Dunstan Archbishop of Canterbury, upon the miracle of a Cross speaking, and condemning the Order: and so Monks were brought into their room. These two Monasteries had their walls so near one another, that when they were singing in one, the noise was a disturbance to the other; upon which arose some quarrels between the two Societies, that afterwards broke out into feuds. This reason, and another inconvenience of a great confluence of waters, (which ran down the streets from the West-gate, and making a standing pool at this new Monastery, did infect the air with unwholsome vapours) caus'd the Church, 200 years after it's first building, to be remov'd into the northern suburbs to a place call'd Hide; Hide-Abby. where by the licence of Henry 1. the Monks built a large and beautiful Monastery, which within a few years, by the treachery of Henry of Blois Bishop of Winchester (as a private little History of that place tells us) was miserably burnt down: in which fire was consum'd that famous Cross, the gift of Canute the Dane, that (as some old Records deliver it) cost him the yearly revenue of all England. But the Monastery was raised again to a noble fabrick (as the present ruines testifie) and grew by degrees, till that fatal period for the destruction of Monks. For then this house was demolished; and the other of St. Trinity, which is the Cathedral Church, upon ejection of the Monks had a new foundation of a Dean and 12 Prebendaries. At the East-side of the Cathedral stands a spaciousk palace of the Bishop's, call'd Wolvesey, fortify'd by, several turrets, almost surrounded by the river, and reaching to the City-walls [m]. In the south suburbs there is a neat College that answers it, which William of Wickham Bishop of this See (the greatest patron and encourager of Learning that was in England,A College b [...] by William of Wickham. and whose memory shall be celebrated through all ages in the Monuments of Learning) built for a publick school, which affords great numbers of learned men both to Church and State. In this are maintain'd gentilely a Warden, 10 Fellows, 2 Masters, 70 Scholars,l with some others. There are also other eminent buildings in this City (most of them consecrated to religious uses) which, because time has destroy'd, I have no mind to mention [n]; tho' I cannot but take notice of thatParthe [...]m. St. Mary's Abby. Nunnery or Monastery for Virgins, which Aelfwide, wife to King Alfred, founded; it having been so noble a piece of building (as the ruines of it still shew) and the place out of which Henry 1.Maud wife to Henry 1. took his wife Maud, daughter of Malcolm King of Scots, by whom the Royal families of the Saxons and Normans were united, and by which means that Prince gain'd much on the affections of the English. For she was great grand-daughter to Edmund Ironside by his son Edward, The banished; and a Lady not only endow'd with all the vertues becoming a Queen, but more especially eminent for piety and devotion. Whereupon this old Tetrastick was made in her commendation:
As to Guy Earl of Warwick so famous in story, who in a single combat here conquer'd Colbrand, that DanishTyphoëus Giant; and Waltheof Earl of Huntingdon, beheaded in this place, where afterward was the Chapel of St. Giles; and as to the famous adjoyning Hospital of St. Cross, founded by Henry de Blois, Brother of King Stephen, and Bishop of this City, and farther endow'd by Henry de Beaufort Cardinal: I shall say nothing of all these, because a full relation is already given of them in our common Histories.
As to the Earls of Winchester; Earls of Winchester. to pass by Clito a Saxon, who at the coming in of the Normans, was depriv'd of this ancient honour, King John made Saer Quincy Earl of Winchester,The Quincy's Arms. whose Arms wereBaltheus militaris. a Fesse with a Lemniscus label of seven, as I learn'd from his seal. To him succeeded Roger his son, who bore in a field Gules seven Rhombos. Mascles voided Or. But he dying without Issue male, the honour was extinct in him: for he marry'd the oldest daughter and co-heir, by a former wife, of Alan Lord of Galloway in Scotland, in whose right he was Constable of Scotland. But by her he had only 3 daughters, of whom the eldest was marry'd to William de Ferrariis Earl of Derby, the second to Alan de la Zouch, the youngest to Comine Earl of Buchan in Scotland. A long time after this, Hugh le Despencer was honour'd with the title, during life only, by King Edward 2. who made him his most familiar friend and confident; but he and his son had too late an experiment how fatal it often proves to be the favourites of a Prince: for popular fury put both of them to an ignominious death. A pretty while after this, by the bounty of King Edward 4. Lewis de Bruges a Belgian, Lord of Gruthuse, and Prince of Steinhuse (who had entertain'd this Prince in Flanders when he fled thither for refuge) obtain'd this title, with Arms not much differing from those of Roger de Quincy 6; which after the death of K. Edward, he surrendred up to K. Henry 7. Within our own memory,† William Powlett, Lord Treasurer of England7, was honour'd by Edward 6. with a new title of Marquess of Winchester8, which his Posterity now enjoys. Winchester stands in the longitude of 22, and the latitude of 51 degrees; according to the observation of later ages [o].
From Winchester more Eastward, the river Hamble Hamble. out at a large mouth runs into the sea. Bede calls it Homelea, and says it runs through the country of the Jutes, and falls into the Solente; Solente. for so he calls the chanel between Britain and the Isle of Wight, into which at certain hours two opposite tides coming up with great violence from the Ocean, and meeting here, rais'd so great an admiration in our fore fathers, that they reckon'd it one of the wonders of Britain. Of which take Bede's own words: Two tides which flow round the British Island out of the vast northern Ocean, do daily meet together and encounter each other beyond the mouth of the river Homelea, and when the waves have ended their conflict, they retire into the sea from whence they came. Into this chanel another small river empties it self, which rising near Warnford, runs between the forest of Waltham (where is am stately seat of the Bishops of Winchester) and that of Bere 9, along by Tichfield, Tichfield. where was formerly a small Monastery built by Peter de Rupibus Bishop of Winchester10, and is now the chiefn seat of the Wriotheslys Earls of Southampton. Hence the shore turning and winding in, the Island call'd Portesey makes a creek, at the upper part of which flourish'd formerly Port-peris, where tradition says, Vespasian first arriv'd. Our Ancestors gave it the new name of Portchester, not from Porta a Saxon, but from portus, a harbour. For Ptolemy from it's largeness calls it [...], i.e. the spacious harbour: and so a place in Africa was call'd Portus magnus, Portus magnus. as we learn from Pliny. There is a large Castle still remaining, which commands a free prospect of all [Page 123-124] the harbour below. But when the sea retiring from this shore, by degrees made the harbour less commodious, they remov'd hence to Portsey, an adjoyning Island, which is about 14 miles round. At high tide it is encompass'd with sea-water, of which they make salt; and is joyn'd to the continent by a bridge, which had a small castle to defend it. Athelfled, wife of King Edgar, gave this Island to New-Minster in Winchester; and here at the entrance or mouth of the creek our Ancestors built a town, which from thence they call'd Portsmouth. Portsmouth This in time of war is populous, but not so in time of peace; and seems more inclin'd to the Arts of Mars and Neptune, than of Mercury. It has a Church of good ancient work, and an Hospital (which they call God's-house) founded by Peter de Rupibus Bishop of Winchester. It was fortify'd with a wall made of timber and well lined with mud, with a high mount toward the north-east near the gate, and with two sorts of free-stone at the entrance of the harbour, which the inhabitants say were begun by K. Edward 4. and finish'd by Henry 7. who, they add, settled a garrison in this town. But within our memory, Queen Elizabeth at great expence, has so well secured it by new Works, that nothing seems now wanting to make it a most complete fortification. And of the garrison, some keep guard night and day at the Town-gates, and others upon the top of the Church-tower, where by ringing of a Bell they give notice what Horse and Foot advance toward the Town, and by waving of Colours show from what quarter they come [p].
Hence from Portes-bridge, upon a little turning of the shore, I saw Havant, Havant. a small market-town; and near it Warblington, formerly a beautiful seat of the Earls of Salisbury, now of the family of Cottons Knights. Before these there lie two Islands; the larger is call'd Haling, the less Thorney, from the thorns; and each of them has it's Parish-Church. In several places along this shore, out of sea-water that comes up, they make salt, which at first is of a sort of pale and green colour; but by an art they have, 'tis afterwards boil'd into a pure white. And 'tis of this sea-salt, not of the other which is made in our English pits,British Salt. that St. Ambrose is to be understood: Let us look upon those things which are common, Hexameron. lib. 4. cap. 11. and withal full of kindness; how water is turned into such firm and solid salt, that 'tis often cut with instruments of iron; which is usual in the British salts, that are crusted into a substance as hard and white as marble, and are very wholsom.
At a greater distance from the sea, live the Meanvari, Meanvari. whose Country, along with the Isle of Wight, Edilwalch King of the South-Saxons received from Wlpher King of the Mercians, who was his Godfather,See Bede, lib. 4. c. 13. and upon Baptism gave him this token of adoption. Their Country is now divided into three Hundreds, with a very little change of the name, Meansborow, Eastmean, Weastmean is only a Tithing, and not a Hundred, as the other two. Weastmean; within which there is a rais'd hill surrounded at the top with a large trench, and call'd Old Winchester, where tradition tells us there was an ancient City; but there is now not the least mark or sign of it; so that one may easily imagine it to have been only a Roman Summer-Camp. Below this lies Warnford, Warnford. where Adam de Portu, a man of great wealth in those parts under William the Conqueror, rebuilt the Church, as we are taught by a rude distich fixed on the wall.
More inward there border upon these the Segontiaci, Segontiaci. who submitted themselves to Caesar, and inhabited the Northern limits of this County, living in the Hundred of Holeshot: in which we meet with Aulton, a Market-town that King Alfred by will left to the Keeper of Leodre; and Basingstoke, Basingstoke that has a well-frequented market, and a very neat Chapel, dedicated to the Holy Ghost, built by William the first Lord Sands, who there lies bury'd. Upon the roof of it, the history of the Prophets, Apostles, and Disciples of Christ, is very artificially describ d. Below this place Eastward lies Basing, Ba [...]ing. famous for it's Lords of that Sirname, St. Johns, St. Johns. Poinings and Powlets. For when Adam de Portu, Lord of Basing, marry d the daughter and heir of Roger de Aurevall, whose wife was the daughter and heir of the noble family of the St. Johns; Out of [...] old m [...] this [...]. then William son of the said Adam took the honorary title of St. John, which was retain'd by his successors in a right line. But when Edmund de St. John in the time of Edward 3. died without issue, Margaret his sister marrying John de St. Philibert, brought to him the whole estate of the Lords St. John. She likewise dying without issue, Isabel her other sister, wife of* Luke Poynings, had by him Thomas Lord of Basing, whose grandchild Constantia, by his son Hugh, became heir to this part of the estate, and being marry'd into the family of the Powlets, was the great grandmother of that William Powlet, Powlet. who by K. Henr. 8. was made Baron St. John of Basing; and by King Edward 6. Earl of Wiltshire, and Marquess of Winchester; and being Lord High Treasurer of England, after he had in most troublesome times run through a course of the highest honours,He lived [...] years. dy'd in a good old age: a happiness that rarely attends Courtiers. He built here a seat, both for largeness and beauty, wonderfully magnificent; but which was so overpower'd by it's own weight, that his posterity have been forc'd to pull down a part of it [r].
Nigh this place we see The Vine, Vines [...] brought [...] to Eng [...]a [...]d a very neat house of the Barons of Sandes, and so call'd from Vines, which we have had in Britain more for shade indeed than fruit,Vopiscus. ever since the time of Probus the Emperor. For 'twas he that gave liberty to the Britains and some other nations, to have Vines. The first Baron of this family was† William Sandes, Barons [...] Sandes. whom King Henry 8. advanc'd to that honour, when he was his Chamberlain, and had encreas'd his estate by marriage with Margery Bray, daughter and heir of John Bray, and Cousin of Reginald Bray Knight of the Garter, and a most eminent Baneret. To him was born Thomas Lord Sandes, grandfather to William now living. Nigh this place to the south-east lies Odiam, Odiam now proud of a Palace of the King's; and once known for the prison of David 2. King of Scots. It was formerly a free burrough of the Bishop of Winchester's,Matth [...] ris. the Castle whereof in the reign of K. John was defended by 13 English for 15 days together, against Lewis, [Dauphine] of France, who straitly besieged it with a great Army.
Higher up among the Segontiaci, upon the Northern edge of the County, lay the City of these Segontiaci, Vindonum; which losing it's old name,Vind [...] took that of it's inhabitants, as Lutetia in France borrow'd it's name from the Parisians. For this place was call'd by the Britains Caer Segonte, that is, the City of the Segontians, (and so Ninnius terms it in his Catalogue of Cities;) we at this day call it Silcester; Silcester. and Higden seems to give it the name of Britenden, from the Britains. I am induc'd to call this place the Vindonum, because it agrees with the distances of Vindonum from Gallena or Guallenford, and from Vinta or Winchester in the Itinerary of Antoninus; and the rather too, because there is a military way still visible between this Silcester and Winchester. Ninnius tells us this City was built by Constantius son of Constantine the Great, and that it was once call'd Murimintum, perhaps for Muri-vindun, that is, the Walls of Vindonum: for the Britains retain the word Mure, borrow'd from the Provincial language, and the V consonant they often change into M in their pronunciation. On the ground whereon this City was built (I deliver Ninnius's words) the Emper [...]r Constantius sow'd 3 grains of Corn, that no poor person might ever inhabit there. So Dinocrates, at the building of Alexandria in Egypt (as Ammianus Marcellinus has it) strowed all the outlines withFario [...] Wheat, by which Omen he foretold that that City should always be supplied with plenty of provisions. The same Author also reports, that Constantius dy'd here, and that his sepulchre was to be seen at the gate of the City, as appear'd by [Page 125-126] the inscription. But in these matters let Ninnius vindicate his own credit, who indeed has stuff'd that little history with a great many trifling lies. But thus much I dare affirm, that this city was in great repute in that age, and I myself have here found several coins of Constantine Junior, son of Constantine the Great, which on their reverse have the figure of a building, and this inscription PROVIDENTIAE CAESS. But all writers agree, that Constantius, whom Ninnius makes the builder of this city, dy'd at Mopsuestia, or Mebsete, in Cilicia, and was thence carry'd to the sepulchre of his Ancestors at Constantinople. [...]. I deny not, but that a † sepulchre or honorary grave might be here made for the Emperor; for such like ‖ Barrows of earth were often made in memory of the dead, [...]mul [...]. [...]orary [...]. or [...]ows. round which the souldiers had yearly their solemn exercises in honour of the deceased party.
When the Roman Empire began to decline, and barbarous nations made frequent incursions into their provinces; then the British armies fearing they might be involv'd in the calamity of their Neighbours, chose themselves Emperors, first Marcus, then Gratian, (both of whom they presently murder'd,) and lastly, [...]tura. [...]runt. [...]tantine [...] chose [...]eror [...]he sake [...]. in the year 107. they * chose one Constantine, purely for the sake of his name and against his own will, in this city Caer Segont; as Ninnius and Gervasius Dorobernensis tell us. He setting sail from Britaine, arrived at Bologne in France, and got all the Roman forces as far as the Alps to joyn him, defended Valence, a city of Gaule, with great resolution against the forces of Honorius the Emperor, and set a garrison upon the † Rhine, [...]henum. that was before defenseless. He built several fortresses in the passages of the Alpes. In Spain, by the assistance of Constans his son, whom from a Monk he had rais'd to the title of Augustus, he was very successful; and then sending letters to Honorius to beg pardon for his crime in suffering the soldiers to force upon him the Purple, received back an Imperial Robe from that Emperour. Buoy'd up with this, he pass'd the Alpes with a design to march to Rome; but hearing of the death of Alaric the Goth, who had been a friend to his cause, he retreated to Arles, where he fixed the Imperial seat, commanded the city to be call'd † after his own name, [...]tanti [...]. and summon'd thither a solemn meeting of seven Provinces. In the mean time Gerontius rais'd a faction against his Master, and after he had traiterously slain Constans his son at Vienne in Gaule, closely besieged Constantine the Father in Arles: but while one Constantius, sent by the Emperour Honorius, was marching against him with an army, Gerontius laid violent hands upon himself. In the mean time, Constantine being reduc'd to great necessity by the closeness of this siege, and by some unhappy sallies of the garrison brought to despair, he quitted his honour, and that load of fortune; and entring into the Church, took upon him the Order of a * Priest: [...]y. upon which, the city was presently surrendred, and he led prisoner into Italy, where he was beheaded, with Julian his son, whom he entitled the Noble, [...] enti [...]e [...]. and Sebastian his brother. The History of these affairs, which is before deliver'd more at large, I have here abridged from Zosimus, Zosomen, Nicephorus, Orosius, and Olympiodorus; that truth may triumph over the vanity of those who by the help of their own invention have adulterated this story with their ridiculous and simple forgeries.
Our Historians report, that in this city was the inauguration of our martial King Arthur; and soon after, the place was demolish'd, either in the Saxon Wars, or when Athelwolf, in rebellion against King Edward his brother, assisted by that crew of Danish Robbers, destroy'd all this country as far as Basing-stoke. Nothing now remains but the walls, which (though they have lost their coping and battlements) seem to have been of a great height. For by the rubbish and ruins the earth is grown so high, that I could scarce thrust my self through a † passage which they call Onion's hole, [...]gip [...]r [...] tho' I stoop'd very low. The walls however remain in a great measure entire, only some few gaps there are in those places, where the gates have been; and out of these very walls there grow Oaks of such a vast bigness, incorporated as it were with the stones, and their roots and boughs spreading so far round, that they even raise an admiration in all that behold them. In compass, the walls contain about two Italian miles; so that perhaps from the largeness of the place, the Saxons call'd it Selcester, that is, a great city. Sel, what. For Sel seems in their language to have signified great; since Asserius Menevensis interprets the Saxon word Selwood, by Sylva magna, i.e. a great wood. On the west-side of the walls, where 'tis a level, there runs a long ridge, cast up for defence of the place. It includes about 80 acres of land, a good and fat soil, now divided into separate fields; with a little grove towards the west, and eastward near the gate a farm-house, with a small Church of modern building; in which while I search'd for ancient Inscriptions, I found nothing but some Coats of Arms in the windows, viz. in a field sable seven Fusils argent Bendwise; as also, in a field sable a Fesse between two cheverns Or, and in a shield Or an eagle display'd with two heads, gules. Arms of the Blewets, Bainards, and Cusanz. I find these last to be the Arms of the Blewets, to whom this estate came after the time of William the Conquerour; the second are the Arms of the noble family of Bainard of Leckham; and the first is the Coat of the family of the Cusanz, by whom this estate pass'd hereditarily from the Blewets to the Bainards. But in the reign of William the Conquerour, this was in the possession of William de Ow the Norman, who being accus'd of treason, appeal'd to a tryal of his innocence by Duel; but being conquered, he was by command of King William Rufus punish'd with the loss of his eyes and testicles. The inhabitants of this place told me, it had been a constant observation of theirs, that tho' the soil here be fat and fertile, yet in a sort of baulks that cross one another, the corn never grows so thick as in the other parts of the field; and along these they imagine the streets of the old city to have run. Here are commonly dug up British tiles, and great plenty of Roman Coins, which they call Onion-pennies, from one Onion whom they foolishly fancy to have been a Giant, and an inhabitant of this city. There are often found too some inscriptions, which the ignorance of the Country-people has robb'd the world of. There is only one brought up to London, and placed in the garden of the honourable William Cecil Baron of Burghley, and Lord High Treasurer of England; which is this: ‘MEMORIAE
FL. VICTORI-
NAE. T. TAM: VICTOR CONIUX
POSVIT.’
I shall not be positive, as some others are, that this was a monument in memory of Victorina, who was called Mater Castrorum, i.e. Mother of the Camp; and who rais'd the Victorini, son and grandson, Posthumus, Lollianus, Marius, and Tetricus, Caesars, in Gaule and Britain, against Gallienus the Emperor. But I have somewhere read that there were two Victors in Britaine, and that both flourished at the same time; one, son of Maximus the Emperor, the otherPraetorio Praefectus. Praefect of the Guards to the same Emperor, and mention'd by St. Ambrose in his Epistles. But I dare affirm, that neither of these was he who set up this monument in memory of his wife.
As there is one Roman military way that leads from hence directly southward to Winchester; so is there another that passes westward thro' Pamber (a thick and woody forest;) then by some places that are now uninhabited, it runs near Litchfield, that is, the field of carcasses, and so to the forest of Chute, pleasant for its shady trees, and the diversions of hunting; where the huntsmen and foresters admire it's pav'd rising ridge, which is plainly visible, tho' now and then broken off.
Now northward, in the very limits almost of this County, I saw Kings-cleare, Kingscleare formerly a seat of the Saxon Kings, now a well-frequented market town11. Sidmanton, Sidmanton. the seat of the family of Kingsmils Knights: [Page 127-128] and Burgh-cleare, Bu gh-cleare. that lies under a high hill, on the top of which there is a military camp (such as our ancestors call'd Burgh) surrounded with a large trench: and there being a commanding prospect from hence all the country round, a Beacon is here fix'd, which by fire gives notice to all neighbouring parts of the advance of an enemy. These kind of watch-towers we call in our language Beacons, from the old word Beacnian, i.e. to becken: they have been in use here in England for several ages; sometimes made of a high pile of wood, and sometimes of little barrels fill'd with pitch set on the top of a large pole in places that are most expos'd to view, where some always keep watch in the night; and formerly also the horsemen call'd Hobelers by our Ancestors, were settled in several places to signifie the approach of the enemy by day [s].
This County, as well as all the rest we have thus far describ'd, belong'd to the West-Saxon Kings; and (as Marianus tells us) when Sigebert was depos'd for his tyrannical oppression of the subject, he had this County assign'd him, that he might not seem intirely depriv'd of his government. But for his repeated crimes they afterward expell'd him out of those parts too; and the miserable condition of this depos'd Prince was so far from moving any one's pity, that he was forc'd to conceal himself in the wood Anderida, and was there killed by a Swine-herd.
This County has had very few Earls, besides those of Winchester, which I have before spoken of. At the coming in of the Normans, one Bogo, or Beavose, a Saxon, had this title; who in the battel at Cardiff in Wales fought against the Normans. He was a man of great military courage and conduct; and while the Monks endeavour'd to extol him by false and legendary tales, they have drown'd his valiant exploits in a sort of deep mist. From this time we read of no other Earl of this County till the reign of Henry 8. who advanc'd William Fitz-Williams (descended from the daughter of the Marquess of Montacute) in his elder years, to the honours of Earl of Southampton, and Lord High Admiral of England. But he soon after dying without issue, King Edward 6. in the first year of his reign, conferr'd that honour upon Thomas Wriotheosley Lord Chancellour of England; and his grandson Henry, by Henry his son, now enjoys that title; who in his younger years has arm'd the nobility of his birth with the ornaments of learning and military arts, that in his riper age he may employ them in the service of his King and Country.
There are in this County 253 Parishes, and 18 Market Towns.
ISLE of WIGHT.
TO this County of Southamton, belongs an Island which lies southward in length opposite to it; by the Romans formerly call'd Vecta, Vectis, and Victesis; by Ptolemy, [...]; by the Britains, Guith; by the Saxons, Wuitland and Wicþ-ea (for they call'd an Island Ea,) we now call it the Isle of Wight, and Whight. 'Tis separated from the Continent of Britain by so small a rapid channel, which they formerly call'd Solent, that it seems to have been joyn'd to it; whence (as Ninnius observes) the Britains call'd it Guith, which signifies a Separation [t]. For the same reason the learned Julius Scaliger is of opinion, that Sicily had it's name from the Latin word Seco; because it was broken off, and as it were dissected from Italy. Whence (with submission always to the Criticks) I would read that passage in the sixth of Seneca's Natural Quaest. Ab Italia Sicilia resecta; and not rejecta, as 'tis commonly read. From the nearness of it's situation, and the likeness of it's name, we may guess this Vecta to be that Icta, which (as Diodorus Siculus has it) at every tide seem'd to be an Island; but at the time of the ebb, the ground between this Island and the Continent was so dry, that the old Britains us'd to carry their tinn over thither in Carts, in order to transport it into France. But I cannot think this to be Pliny's Mictis, tho' Vecta come very near the name: for in that Island there was white lead, whereas in this there is not any one vein of metal, that I know of.
This Island, from east to west, is like a Lentil, or of an oval form, in length 20 miles; and in the middle, where 'tis broadest, 12 miles over; the sides lying north and south. To say nothing of the abundance of fish in this sea; the soil is very fruitful, and answers the husbandman's expectation even so far as to yield him corn to export. There is every where plenty of rabbets, hares, partridge, and pheasants; and it has besides, a forest and two parks, which are well stock'd with deer, for the pleasures of hunting. Through the middle of the Island runs a long ridge of hills, where is plenty of pasture for sheep; whose wool, next to that of Lemster and Cotteswold, is reckon'd the best, and is in so much request with the Clothiers, that the inhabitants make a great advantage of it. In the northern part there is very good pasturage, meadow-ground, and wood; the southern part is in a manner all a corn country, enclos'd with ditches and hedges. At each end the sea does so insinuate and thrust in it self from the north, that it makes almost two Islands, which indeed are call'd so by the inhabitants; that on the west side Fresh-water Isle, the other on the east Binbridge Isle. Bede reckon'd in it in his time 1200 families; now it has 36 towns, villages, and castles; and as to its Ecclesiastical Government, is under the jurisdiction of the Bishop of Winchester; but as to it's Civil, under the County of South-hamton. The inhabitants facetiously boast how much happier they are than other people, since they never had eitherp Cu [...]tos [...] c [...]os. Newpo [...] Monks, Lawyers, or Foxes.
The places of greatest note are these; Newport, the best market town in the Island, formerly call'd Medena, and Novus Burgus de Meden, i.e. the new Burrough of Meden, whence the whole country, as it lies east and west, is divided into East-Meden and West-Meden [u]. Caeresbrok, Caeres [...] an old castle so call'd by a strange mangling of the name for Whitgaresburg (from one Whitgar a Saxon, of whom more hereafter,) and lies in the very midst of the Island. It was lately magnificently rebuilt by the Governour. To this castle belong very many Knights Fees; and for antiquity it exceeds all others in the island [w]. Brading, another market-town. Newton and Yarmouth Mayor towns, that return Burgesses to Parliament. This Yarmouth and Sharpnore have their castles, which with Worsleys-tower defend the north-west shore. Opposite to it, and not above two miles distant, is Hurst-castle,Hurst situated on a little tongue of land in Hamshire.q Quarre, where was founded An. Dom. 1132. a Nunnery. Godshill, where J. Worsley erected a school for the education of youth. West-Cow and East-Cow, which are now ruin'd, were built at the Entrance into Newport by Hen. 8. of which Leland:
On the North-east side stands Sandham castle, strengthen'd, like the rest, with great pieces of Cannon.
This Island is as well fortify'd by Nature as Art; for it is encompassed with a continu'd ridge of rocks: some also lye under water all along before the Island, and are very incommodious to Sailors. But the most dangerous are the Needles, so call'd because they are very sharp and pointed; the Shingles, which lye on the west corner of the Island; as on the east-side, the Owers and the Mixon; and on the North-coast the Brambles, shelves which often deceive the Mariners. And if there be any place where an Enemy might conveniently land; that, according to the old custom, is fenc'd with stakes fasten'd in the ground.
But for all this, it is not so well fortify'd by its rocks or castles, as by it's inhabitants, who are naturally very bold and couragious; and by the dayly diligence and care of the Governour, have the methods of Exercise so perfect, that let the service they are put upon be what it will, it is not new to them: for they shoot at a mark admirably, keep their ranks, march orderly; if occasion require, they can either cast themselves into a round, stand at a distance one from another, or come close up together; they can endure long marches, and the fatigue of them in hot and dusty weather; in short, they are Masters of whatever is requisite for a souldier. The Island of it self can raise 4000 such men in time of war; besides, there are 3000 of the Hamshire Militia, and 2000 of the Wiltshire, appointed to be always ready for the defence of the Island. And that they may with greater ease repulse the Enemy, the whole Country is divided into eleven parts, every one of which has it's Centoner, as much as a Centurion; and it's Vintons, as much as the Vicenarii, i.e. Leaders of Twenty; not to mention the great pieces of Cannon; the Centinels, who keep watch on the high hills where the Beacons stand; and their Posts and Couriers, by an obsolete name call'd Hoblers, who are to give intelligence of all occurrences to the Governour.
Vespasian was the first who reduc'd it to the power of the Romans, whilst he serv'd as a private Officer under Claudius. [...]he life [...] Vespa [...]. c. 4. For thus Suetonius writes of him: In the reign of Claudius, by the favour of Narcissus, he was sent Lieutenant of a Legion into Germany; thence remov'd into Britaine, he fought 30 pitch'd Battels with that Enemy, subdu'd 2 powerful nations, took above 20 towns, together with the Isle of Wight that lies upon the Coast of Britain; and all this partly under the command of Aulus Plautius a Consular Lieutenant, partly under the conduct of the Emperor Claudius himself. For which he was honour'd with triumphal ornaments, and in a short time after with 2 Sacerdotal Dignities. 'Twas at this Island that Alectus's fleet, when he had usurp'd the * government of Britaine, [...]rp [...]ra. laid wait for the Romans coming against them; who yet by the help of a favourable mist, sail d undiscover'd by the enemies to shore, and set fire to the ships, that there might be no temptation to run away. The first of the Saxons that subdu'd it was Cerdicus, and he gave it to Stuffa and Whitgar, Dom. who put the British Inhabitants to the sword, (so that but few were left) in Whitgaraburgh, call'd so from him, and now by contraction Caresbrook. After, Wolpher, King of the Mercians, subdu'd this Island, and gave it, together with the country of the Meanvari, [...]. 4. [...]. to Edelwalch King of the South-Saxons, when he stood godfather to him. Ceadwalla King of the West-Saxons, (after that Edelwalch was kill'd, and Arvandus petty King of the Island was made away) joyn'd it to his own dominions, and most cruelly massacred very nigh all the natives of the Island. He gave to Bishop Wilfred (who first instructed the inhabitants in the Christian Religion) 300 Hides, being the 4th part of the Island. For your better information, take Bede's own words.
[...] l. 4. After that Ceadwalla had got the Kingdom of the Geuissi, he took also the Isle of Wight, which till then was wholly given to Idolatry; and by a bloody Massacre did endeavour quite to extirpate the native inhabitants, and in their stead to people it with his own Country-men, obliging himself, as they say, by vow, (tho' he was not as yet become a Christian) that if he conquer'd the Island he would devote the fourth part both of it and his whole spoil, to God; which he accordingly did, by giving it to Bishop Wilfrid for the service of God; for he being his country-man, happen'd to be there. The compass of this Island is judg'd by the English to include 1200Familiarum. hides: whereupon 300 of them were given to the Bishop. But he committed that part which he receiv'd, to one of his Clerks, by name Bernwin, who was his sister's son, giving him a priest, whose name was Hildila, with orders to baptize, and preach the word of God to all those that were desirous of salvation. Where I think my self bound to observe, that among the first fruits of those who were converted in that Island, 2 young boys of the blood-royal, brothers to Arvandus King of the Island, were by the special grace of God, crown'd with martyrdom. For when the enemies were ready to invade the Isle, these young brothers made their escape, and got over to the next Province; Jutarum. See p. 192. where coming to a place that is call'd Ad Lapidem, and thinking to secure themselves there from the fury of the conquering Prince, they were betray'd, and order'd to be put to death. Which coming to the ears of a certain Abbot and Priest call'd Cynbreth, that at a small distance from thence had a Monastery in a place call'd Reodford, i.e. the ford of reeds; he came to the King, who was then privately in those parts for the cure of his wounds which he had receiv'd in the Isle of Wight, and desir'd of him, that if those young brothers must be kill'd, he would please first to permit them to be baptiz'd. This request the King granted; upon which the Abbot having instructed them in the word of truth, and washed them in the fountain of salvation, made them certain of their entrance into the kingdom of heaven. And immediately after, the Executioner coming to them, they joyfully submitted to a temporal death, as a sure and certain passage to eternal life. And in this order, after all the provinces of Britain had receiv'd the Christian faith, the Isle of Wight was also converted; in which notwithstanding, because of the miseries of a foreign yoke, no one had the dignity of a Minister or Bishop before Daniel, who is now Bishop of the West-Saxons and the Geuissi.
After this, Authors say nothing of the Island till the year 1066. when Tostius, brother to K. Harald, with some Pirate-ships from Flanders, out of ill will to his brother landed here,Florence of Worcester. and when he had compell'd the inhabitants to pay him a certain Tribute, sail'd off. A few years after (as I find in an ancient book belonging to the Priory of Caeresbroke, which was shewn me by Robert Glover Somerset-herald, that great oracle in Genealogical Antiquities) as William the Bastard conquer'd England, so William Fitz-Osborne (who was his Mareschal and Earl of Hereford) conquer'd the Isle of Wight, and was first Lord of it. A long time after which, the French in the year 1377. by surprize landed, and plunder'd the Isle. They made another unsuccessful attempt A. D. 1403. being bravely driven back; as also within the memory of our fathers, in the reign of Hen. 8. when the French Gallies set fire to one or two small Cottages.
As to the Lords of this Isle:Lords of the Isle of Wight. William Fitz-Osborn presently after being slain in the wars of Flanders, and his son Roger attainted and banish'd, it came into the King's hands, and Henry 1. K. of England gave it to Richard de Ridvers (otherwise call'd Redvers and de Ripariis,) Earl of Devonshire, and with it the Fee of the village of Christ-Church. Here this Richard built a Castle, as likewise another at Cares-brooke; but his son Baldwin (in the troublesome reign of K. Stephen, when there were as many petty Princes in England as Lords of Castles, who all pretended to a right of coining money, and other rights of sovereign power) was turn'd out of this castle by K. Stephen. Yet his posterity recover'd their ancient right, whose pedigree I have already drawn down where I treated at large of the Earls of Devonshire. At length, Isabell widow to William de Fortibus, Earl of Albemarle and Holderness, sister and heiress of Baldwin the last Earl of Devonshire of this Family, was, not without difficulty, constrain'd by Charter to surrender up her right herein to K. Edw. 1.
Since that time, the Kings of England have had the possession of this Isle; and Henry de Beauchamp Earl of Warwick, was by King Henry 6. (in whom he had a great interest) crown'd King of the Isle of Wight, and afterwards entitl'd First Earl of all England. But this new and extraordinary Title dy'd with him. Afterwards Richard Widevile Earl of Rivers, was made Lord of the Isle of Wight by Edward 4. and Reginald [Page 131-132] Bray receiv'd itIn firmam to farm (as the Lawyers call it) for the yearly rent of 300 Marks, from K. Henr. 7. who had a great affection for him. Besides these, it has had for it's Lords a noble Family call'd de Insula or Lisle, one of whom in the reign of Edw. 2. was summon'd to Parliament under the name of John de Insula Vecta, i.e. of the Isle of Wight.
ADDITIONS to HAMSHIRE.
Right name of the County.[a] BY what Author this County is call'd Hanteschyr (which Mr. Camden says is the Saxon name of it,) I know not. Certain it is, that this must have been given it after the coming in of the Normans, who brought along with them the custom of placing (h) after (c,) a manner of writing altogether unknown to the Saxons. The ancient Annals call it expresly Hamtunscyre, which is by later writers melted into Hamteschyre, Hampteshire, and Hamshire. Florence of Worcester indeed calls it Hantunscyre; but it must needs be a mistake of the Librarian for Hamtunscyre, since the Saxon-Annals call it so, and he transcrib'd from them. Which is the more observable, because our modern Hants and Hantshire (generally us'd as the true names) plainly proceed from this mistake in the writing, Hantunscyre being naturally melted into Hantshire.
[b] After the name, we come to the County it self; a part whereof our Author observes was that Natanleod Natanleod. mention'd by our Histories. Tho' the story be very obscure; yet one may venture to affirm, even against the Annals, that this King's name could not be Natanleod, but rather Natan or Nata, which by the addition of leod, i.e. a countrey, signifies the tract or country of Natan. Besides, one of the Copies calls it Natanleag, that is, the field of Natan; which naturally suggests what Mr. Camden could not so well infer from the other, viz. some remains of the old name, as in Netley and Nutley, in this County.
Ellingham.[c] 'Tis possible the Avon (as our Author conjectures) might be call'd Alaun; but Allingham is no proof of it, there being no such place near the river; unless he means Ellingham, the affinity whereof with Ellandune has caus'd an opinion, that the battle between Egbert and Bernulf might be in this place; and the rather, because Higden tells us it was in Hamshire. But as the engagement was reallySee that County. in Wiltshire, so Higden's error seems to have been occasion'd by the Monk of Winchester's saying that it was at Elendune, which was a mannour belonging to the Priory of Winchester.
New-forest.[d] East of the river is New-Forest, wherein are 9 Walks, and to every one a Keeper. It has two Raungers, a Bow-bearer; and a Lord-Warden, which office (asItinerar. MS. Vol. 6. Leland says) formerly belong'd by right of inheritance to the Earls of Arundel; but it is at present in the hands of his Grace the Duke of Bolton.
Malwood-castle.[e] In this forest is the Castle of Malwood, Aubr. MS. the area whereof contains a great many acres. The form of it inclines towards a square; and on it's banks or works (which are single, and not very great) there grow Oaks. On the north-side hard by it, is the Oak that budds on Christmas-day; and withers again before night: it was order'd by K. Charles the second to be pal'd round. The constant Tradition is, that William Rufus was kill'd near this Castle; and that this is the Tree upon which Tyrrel's arrow glanc'd.
In the same forest, at Godshill Godshill. near Fording bridge, Ibid. is a Camp upon the hill which is overgrown with Oaks: one side is a steep cliff, and the other double-trencht.
[f] Upon the edge of the forest is Calshot-Castle, corrupted from Caldshore, (as our Author observes) and possibly the Cerdicesora of the Saxons; which seems to have been in the westerly parts of England. For the same persons that Matthew Westminster affirms to have landed in Occidentali parte Britanniae, are said by the Saxon-Annals to have come ashore at Cerdicesora. If upon such a conjecture one might remove it from Yarmouth into those parts, I know no place can lay better claim to it than this, whether we consider the situation, or other circumstances.
[g] Next is Southampton: Southampton. for so one ought to call it, rather than Southanton, with Mr. Camden and others; which has no authority to support it, but only a possibility of the river Test being call'd Anton, and the writing of the whole County, in Domesday-book, Hantscyre. The latter is already shown to be an error; and the former is too light to be oppos'd to the authority of our most ancientChron. Sax. An. 981. 1 [...]9 [...] Histories, wherein we find it call'd simply Hamtun. Besides, the South must imply some relation to the river; and if so, why had it not that joyn'd to it from the beginning, since the river has still had the same chanel?
[h] The town is not in the same flourishing condition as formerly; for having lost it's trade, it has lost most of it's inhabitants too, and the great houses of merchants are now dropping to the ground, and only show it's ancient magnificence. In the place where our Author observes Roman Coins were formerly digg'd up, there is now a Dock, for the building of Men of War; and not long since a golden Coin was found hereabouts.
[i] Our next guide is the river Test, upon which is Andover, Andover a very populous Corporation; where is a Free-school founded by John Hanson, A. D. 1569. and an Hospital for the maintenance of 6 men, built and endow'd by Mr. John Pollen, who is a Member of Parliament for this Corporation.
At some distance is Quarley-hills, Quar [...]ey-hill. A [...] upon which there is a great fortification, with quadruple works on the west-side of it. The two outward trenches are distant farther than ordinary one from the other: from the outer to the second, 60 paces; from the second to the third, 36 paces.
The other river that comes to Southampton, our Author imagines was call'd Alre; it is now commonly nam'd Itchin, Itchin [...] from a Parish of that name near it's head. Upon it lies Alresford, Alres [...] which on Mayday, 1610. was destroy'd by a fire that began in several parts of the town almost at the same time; and burnt down also their Market-house and Church: but many of the houses and the market-house are rebuilt. Before the fire there was not one inhabitant that receiv'd any thing out of Collections for the poor.
From this place to Aulton there goes all along a Roman High-way; part of which makes a head or stank to an extraordinary great pond here at Alresford: and nearer the river's head are three noble seats: Chilton-Candover, built by the late Sir Robert Worsley; the Graunge, by the late Sir Robert Henley; and Abbotston, by the present Duke of Bolton, but not quite finisht.
[k] Next, the river goes to Winchester, Winche [...] concerning the ancient condition whereof there is little to be added.A [...] The old ruines near the Cathedral are of Roman building, and consist of small flints, with mortar as hard as stone, so that the whole wall seems to be one entire stone. In the beginning of the late Civil Wars, the Soldiers opening the Marble-Coffin of William Rufus, which lies in the Choir, found on his thumb a golden Ring with a Ruby set in it.
[l] In the place where the Castle stood (which is mention'd by our Author) is now a Royal palace, begun by King Charles 2.King's [...] lace. The foundation was laid the 23 of March, 1683. but being not finish'd before that King's Death, it remains only the model of a more noble design. There was particularly intended a large Cupilo, 30 foot above the roof, which would have been seen a great way to the sea; [Page 133-134] and also a fair street leading to the Cathedral gate in a direct line from the front of the house; for which, and for the Parks, the ground was procur'd. The South-side is 216 foot, and the West 326. 'tis said to have cost 25000 pound already.
Bishop's P [...]ce.[m] The Bishop's Palace which Mr. Camden speaks of, was seiz'd on in the late Civil Wars and pull'd down, to make money of the Lead and other materials; but since the Restoration, Bishop Morley laid out 2300 pound on a handsom structure for that use, and dying before it was finish'd, left 500 pound to complete it. Over the door is this Inscription: Georgius Morley Episcopus has aedes propriis impensis de novo struxit, A. D. 1684.
[n] There have been in this City (as appears by Bishop Andrews's Registry) 32 Parish-Churches, which are now all demolish'd save eight. In the Cathedral Church-yard is a CollegeCollege. erected by the late Bishop Morley, An. 1672. for 10 Ministers Widows, and by him very well endow'd with a yearly Revenue.
Marquesses [...] Winche [...]ter.Since William Paulet had this honour conferr'd upon him, the same persons have been successively both Marquesses of this place, and Earls of Wiltshire; to which County I refer the Reader for a more particular information.
[...]t. Kathe [...]ine s hill. A [...]r. MS.[o] On St. Katherine's Hill near Winchester, ‖ there is a Camp with a single work, and single graffe, neither exactly round nor square; but according to the ground of the hill.
[p] Going from hence to the shore, we meet with Portsmouth, [...]ortsmouth the appearance of which place (as to the extent, strength and magnificence of the land-fortifications, as well as things belonging to marine affairs) is very much alter'd since Mr. Camden's time, and even since the Restoration of King Charles 2. For through the growth of Naval Action in England (whereof more in the Notes upon Chatham in Kent) it is now reckon'd amongst the principal Chambers of the Kingdom, for the laying up of it's Royal Navy; as being furnish'd on shore with Docks wet and dry, Store-houses, Rope-yards, materials and requisites of all kinds for the building, repairing, rigging, arming, victualling, and compleat fitting to sea, ships of the highest rates. It has also Dwelling-houses and ample Accommodations for a Commissioner, and all the subordinate Officers and Master-Artizans, needful for the constant attending and executing the day and night services of the Navy in this Port, both in Peace and War.
Since our Author's time, this place hath given the title of Dutchess to Lovise de Queronalle, created Aug. 19. 1673.
[...]neford.[q] North from hence is Warneford, on the North-side of whose Church the Inscription quoted by Camden appears to be thus:
And as by these the Repairer is discover'd, so is the Founder of it by three others upon the South-side:
[r] Towards the northern limit of this County, is Basing, [...]g. memorable for a battle of Ethelred and Alfred against the Danes, in the year 871. wherein the latter were Conquerors.
[s] North-west from hence, upon the edge of Barkshire *, [...]br. MS. is a square Camp, upon Cornhill, nigh West-Woodhay, five miles from Newbury.
Continuation of the EARLS.
Beside the Earls mention'd by our Author since the Conquest, we read of some in the Saxon times; particularly, in the year 860. (in the time of King Ethelbert) Osric seems to have had this honour, by his leading up the Hamshire-men against the Danes, along with Ethelwulf and his Berkshire-men; tho' by the Saxon-Annals they are both styl'd Ealdor-men. Whether, in King Edgar's time, Aelfhere, and afterwards Aelfhelm, had the same, I dare not be positive. As for those of later date; after the death of Henry the last Earl mention'd by our Author, this honour descended to Thomas Wriothesley his son, who upon the Restoration of King Charles 2. was created Knight of the Garter, and made Lord High Treasurer of England. He was thrice marry'd, but left no issue-male behind him, nor any to inherit his Title; so that in the year 1675. Charles Fitz-Roy, eldest son to the Dutchess of Cleaveland, had this honour among others conferr'd upon him.
[t] A branch of this County is the ISLE OF WIGHT, Chron. Sax. call'd by the Saxons * Wiht and Wihtland, not (as our Author) Wuitland and Wicþ-ea; nor as Sir Henry Spelman, Wite, Witeland, Wite-ea. That the original of it is the British Guith, i.e. a Divorce, however plausible, is yet an opinion not universally agreed upon. For tho' Ninnius a Britain has call'd it so; yet 'twas after the coming in of that people which our Historians term Jutae, the Saxons Jotas and Jutna cynn; and at the same time all agree that this Island fell to their share, upon the expulsion of the Britains. Now Bede expresly names them Vitae, which the Saxon idiom on course would pronounce Witae, as it changes Vir into Wer. And the Interpreter of Bede calls the Jutes that came over Geatas, or Getes, which points out to us their first original from the Goths, once so very considerable a People in Germany. In theCap. 35. Laws of Edward the Confessor they are named Guti, which (asGlossar. in Guti. Sir Henry Spelman observ'd) by a custom of changing Gu into Wy or Wi, becomes the same with Wyti or Witi; and the Saxon-Aspiration, us'd in hundreds of the like instances, brings it to the true writing Wiht and Wihtland. If the names may be thus reconciled without straining, the reason of the thing makes the conjecture much more probable. For what can we imagine more natural, than that this people should call their Division after their own name; in the same manner as the Saxons and Angles (the two other sharers) fixt their names upon their respective bounds, as any one may observe by the ancient Division of England?
[u] The places of most note, are New-port, New-port. which since Mr. Camden's time hath given the title of Earl to Montjoy Blunt, created Aug. 3. 4o Car. 1. who was succeeded in the same honour by his son and heir George Blount; and he by his brother Henry.
[w] Next is Caresbrook-castle, Caresbrook castle. call'd in Saxon Wihtgaraburh, from Wihtgar the Saxon (not Whitgar,) a Castle very eminent in the beginning of the Saxon times; and in our age particularly remarkable for the imprisonment of King Charles 1.
More rare Plants growing wild in Hamshire.
Ascyrum supinum villosum palustre C. B. Park. Marsh S. Peter's wort with woolly leaves. On a rotten moorish ground not far from Southampton abundantly. It grows on the like grounds in many places, especially of the West-Country.
Alopecuros maxima Anglica Park. altera maxima Anglica paludosa Ger. emac. altera maxima Anglica paludosa, seu Gramen Alopecuroides maximum J. B. Lob. Ad. part. alt. The great English marsh-Fox-tail-grass. In the moist pastures of this County, near the Salt-works, and an ancient house call'd Drayton, about two miles from Portsmouth, over against the Isle of Wight, plentifully. Lobel.
Asphodelus luteus Acorifolius palustris Anglicus Lobelii J. B. Lancastriae verus Ger. emac. descr. Pseudo-asphodelus palustris Anglicus C. B. Lancashire-Asphodel or Bastard-Asphodel. On a bog in a heath in the mid-way between Sarisbury and Southampton. This [Page 135-136] is very common in bogs and watery places both in the West and North parts of England.
Bardana minor, Ger. Xanthium seu lappa minor J. B. Park. Lappa minor, Xanthium Dioscoridis C. B. The lesser Burdock. I once found it in the road from Portsmouth to London, about 3 miles from Portsmouth. But it being an annual plant, may be lost again there.
Cissampelos altera Anglica minima Park. p. 173. The least English Black Bindweed. This grows about Drayton near Portsmouth. It differs little from the common black Bindweed but in the smallness of it's parts: which may be owing to the barrenness of the soil.
Dryopteris Penae & Lobelii Ger. emac. p. 1135. True Oak-Fern. This Mr. Goodyer found in a very wet moor or bog, call'd White-row moor, where Peat is now digged a mile from Petersfield in Hamshire. This is found in many wet and boggy grounds in divers Counties of England. It is called by Jo. Bauhine Filix minor non ramosa; and by us Fil. minor palustris repens.
Erica maritima Anglica supina Park. English low Sea-heath. Found by Lobel about Portsmouth. Park. p. 1485. This we have found in many places on the Sea-coasts both in Essex and Suffolk.
Malva arborea marina nostras Park. English Sea-Tree-Mallow. About Hurst-castle near the Isle of Wight: where also grows Crithmum chrysanthemum in great plonty on the miry marsh ground.
Mercurialis mas & foemina J. B. vulgaris mas & foemina Park. Ger. Merk. testiculata sive mas Dioscoridis & Plinii: & spicata sive foemina eorundem C. B. French Mercury the male and female. On the baich near Ryde in the Isle of Wight, plentifully.
Nidus avis flore & caule violaceo-purpureo colore, an Pseudo-limodoron Clus. hist. p. 270. Ger. emac. p. 228. Found in the border of a Field call'd Marborn, near Habridge in Haliborn a mile from Alton. Mr. Goodyer.
Pulmonariia foliis Echii Ger. rubro flore, foliis Echii J. B. angustifolia coeruleo rubente flore C. B. Bugloss Cowslips, or long-leaved Sage of Jerusalem. Found by Mr. Goodyer flowring, May 25. in a wood by Holbury House in the new forest Hamshire.
Rapunculus corniculatus montanus Ger. flore globoso purpureo J. B. folio oblongo, spica orbiculari C. B. Alopecuroides orbiculatus Park. Horned Rampions with a round head of flowers. Found by Mr. Goodyer in the enclosed chalky hilly grounds by Maple-Durham, near Petersfield in Hamshire. It grows in divers places of the Downs in Sussex.
As for the Genistella Anglica spinosa supina, sive Chamaespartum supinum, which Lobel is said to have observed growing not far from Southsea castle, where it flower'd July and August, with slender trailing branches of a span long.
And the Genistella sive Chamaespartum rectum, flore & acutis spinis sparto supino paribus & similibus, found by the same Lobel flowring in July near Portsmouth, both which he is said to have describ'd in the Margin of his Dutch Herbal P. B. We could not find any such Plants in those places, neither heard we of them.
ATTREBATII.
THE Attrebatii, as in France, so likewise in Britaine, border upon the Belgae. Now that name is wholly disus'd, and the countrey they inhabited is commonly call'd Barkshire. But it ought to be taken for granted, since Caesar informs us that the Foreigners which came out of Gallia Belgica inhabited the sea-coasts of Britaine, and still retain'd the names of their own countries, that these our Attrebatii remov'd hither from amongst the Attrebates in Gaule; who, according to Ptolemy, possess'd the maritime parts of Gaule, upon the Sein, to wit, that very country, which may be said in a manner to lye opposite to our Attrebatii. Therefore Caesar wrote not without good grounds, that Comius Attrebatensis was of great authority in these parts, that is, amongst his own country-men; and that after his being conquer'd by Caesar, he fled hither; when, as we have it in Frontinus, his ships being run a-ground, he commanded his sails to be hois'd up, and by that means hindred Caesar's pursuit; who seeing his full sails afar off, and supposing he made away with a fresh gale, desisted from following him farther. Whence they had this name of Attrebatii, is a matter still in dispute; as for those that derive it from Attrech, which they would have to signifie a land of bread in the old Gaulish Tongue, I am afraid they are mistaken. Let it be sufficient for me, that I have shewn from whence they came into Britaine: as for the Etymology of their name, I leave it to the search of others.
BARKSHIRE.
THAT County which we call Barkshire was term'd by the Latin writers Bercheria, and anciently by the English-Saxons Berrocscyre [a]. Which name AsseriusAsserius. Menevensis derives from Berroc a certain Wood where Box grew in great abundance; others from an Oak disbark'd, (so the word Beroke signifies) to which, when the State was in more than ordinary danger, the inhabitants were wont in ancient times to resort, and consult about publick matters. The north-side of this County is wash'd by the winding, but pleasant and gentle streams of the Isis or Ouse, which a little after gets the name of Thamisis, the Thames, and first separates it from Oxfordshire, and afterwards from Buckinghamshire. The south-side, where it looks towards Hamshire, is water'd by the river Kenet, till it runs into the Thames. Westward, where it touches upon Wiltshire, and is broadest, as likewise in its middle parts, it is rich in it self, and full of commodities, yielding abundance of Corn, especially where it sinks into a Valley, which they call the Vale of White Horse, from I know not what shape of a White Horse, fancy'd on the side of a whitish chalky hill [b]. But the east-side, which borders upon Surrey, is downright barren, or at least bears very little, and is very much taken up with woods and forests.
[...]arendon.On the west-side, near the Ouse, stands Farendon, seated high; now noted for it's Market, but formerly for a certain Fortification built by Robert Earl of Glocester against K. Stephen, [...]il. Neu [...]igens. who nevertheless took it at the expence of much blood and labour, and laid it so level with the ground, that it is not now to be seen. But (as we find in the Chronicles of Waverley-Abbey) King John, in the year MCCII. mov'd by divine inspiration, granted the place wherein it was seated, with all it's appurtenances, to the building of an Abbey for the Cistercian Order.
[...]bandune [...] Abing [...]n.From hence the Ouse, fetching a great compass, and as it were with much strugling making it's way out towards the North, waters many villages of little note; till winding inwards again, and dividing it's stream, it arrives at Abbendon, a handsome town and well frequented, call'd first by the English-Saxons Sheovesham, then Abbandune, no doubt from the Abbey, rather than one Abbenus, I know not what Irish Hermit, as some have written. It was a place (as we have it in the old book of Abbendon) upon the plain of an hill, extreamly pleasant to the eye, a little beyond the village which is now call'd Suniggewelle, between two very fine rivulets, which enclosing within them the place it self (as it were a sort of bay) yield a delicate prospect to the beholders, and a convenient subsistence to the Inhabitants. It was in ancient times call'd Sheovesham, a famous City, goodly to behold, full of riches, encompass'd about with very fruitful fields, with green meadows, spacious pastures, and flocks of cattel abounding with milk. Here the King kept his Court, hither the people resorted to consult about the greatest and most weighty affairs of the kingdom [c]. But assoon as Cissa, King of the West-Saxons, had built the Abbey, it began by degrees to lay aside it's old name, and to be called Abbandun, and Abbington, that is, the Abbey's Town. This Abbey had not long flourish'd, ere it was thrown down, in an instant as it were, by the violent fury of the Danes. Yet it soon after recover'd it self thro' the liberality of King Edgar; and afterwards, by the industry of the Norman Abbots, grew to that magnificence by degrees, as to stand in competition almost with any Abbey in Britaine for riches and greatness, as it's present ruines still declare. But the town tho' it had it's dependance for a long time on the Abbey, yet since the year 1416. when K. Henry 5.Henricus quintus quarto fundaverat anno, Rex pontem Burford super undas atque Culhamford. built Bridges over the Ouse (as appears by a distich in a window of S. Helen's Church there) and turned the high road hither for a short cut; it became so much frequented, as to be reckon'd amongst the principal towns of this County; having a Mayor, and much enriching it self by steep'd barley sprouting and chitting again, which the Greeks call Byne, and we Mault. Mault. It hath besides, a Cross of excellent workmanship in the middle of the Market-place, erected, as 'tis reported, in the reign of K. Henry 6. by the fraternity of St. Cross instituted by him.
As Cissa was the founder of this Abbey, so Cilla (as I have it out of an old book) King Cedwalla's sister, built a Nunnery at Helnestow near the Thames, where her self presided over the Virgins, who were afterwards translated to Witham. In the heat of the war between Offa and Kinulph, the Nuns, upon the building of a castle there, retired from thence. For after that Kinulph was overthrown, whatsoever lay under his jurisdiction, from the town of Wallingford in the south part, from Ichenilde-streete as far as Now Ashbury near Whitehorse Hill. Essebury, and in the north part as far as the River Thames, King Offa seiz'd upon.
Near unto it, north-west, lies Lee, which by the daughter of a certain Knight sirnam'd de Lee, fell to the family of the Besiles, Besiles Lee. Fetiplace. and thence came to be call'd Besiles-Lee; and from that family, in right of marriage, to Richard Fetiplace; whose progenitor Thomas brought some honour to his posterity by matching with Beatrix a natural daughter of John 1. King of Portugal1, from whom they are descended. But now let us return. Hard by Abington, the little River Ock, which washes the south-side of the town, and over which Sir John St. Helens Knight, formerly [Page 139-140] built a bridge, gently falls into the Ouse. It hath it's rise in the vale of White-horse, scarce a mile or two from Kingston-Lisle, Viscounts Lisle. anciently the possession of Warin de Insula or Lisle, a noble Baron. John Talbot, a younger son of that famous Warriour John Earl of Shrewsbury, being by the mother's side descended from that Baron, was first created Baron L'isle 2 (as Warin de Insula was before, in regard of his being possess'd of this place, as if that honour were annext to it) and afterwards Viscount L'isle 3. This title by the favour of our Kings hath in a continued series still flourish'd in his posterity. For (to sum up all in short) when Thomas Talbot (son of that John) dy'd issueless, being shot through the mouth with an arrow, as in a skirmish he was defending his estate against Baron Barkley; Edward Grey who had marry'd his sister, receiv'd the same honour from King Richard 3. and had a son nam'd John, whose only daughter and heir being an infant, was contracted to Charles Brandon by King Henry 8. and thereupon he became Viscount L'isle: but she dying before the solemnization of the marriage, this his title dy'd with her. Afterwards the same King Henry conferr'd this honour upon Arthur Plantagenet, a natural son of King Edward 4. who had marry'd Elizabeth the sister of John Grey Viscount L'isle, Edmund Dudley's widow. And upon his dying without issue-male, John Dudley son of Edmund Dudley by the same Elizabeth Grey, afterwards Duke of Northumberland4, was honour'd by the same King with this title. But he being attainted5, Queen Elizabeth restor'd in blood his son Ambrose; and before she created him Earl of Warwick, the same day made him Baron L'isle 6; and Robert Sidney his sister's son, a person illustrious for his so noble descent, and his own virtues, was honour'd with the title of Viscount L'isle, 1605. by King James, who had before created him Baron Sidney of Pensherst, and likewise made him Lord Chamberlain to his Royal Consort Queen Ann [d].
Thence this river Ock just now mention'd, runs between Pusey Pusey. (still in the possession of a Family of that Sirname, and held by a Horn given to their ancestors by King Canutus the Dane [e]) and the two Denchworths hard by,Denchworth. where two noble and ancient Families have long flourish'd, Hide at South-Denchworth, and Fetiplace at North-Denchworth; both which may seem to have sprung from the same stock, considering they give the same Coat of Arms. After this, the Ock receives a nameless rivulet; which flows out of the same Vale about Wantage, call'd in Saxon Wanating, anciently a Royal Vill, and the birth-place of the famous King Alfred, which at his death he bequeath'd to Alfrith. It was made a market-town not long after, by the interest of that valiant Soldier Foulk Fitzwarin, upon whom Roger Bigod, Earl Marshal of England, had bestow'd it, for his singular courage and great conduct in War; and it now owns for it's Lords the Bourchiers Earls of Bath, descended from the race of the Fitzwarins; of which family some are bury'd here [f].
The Ouse leaving Abington, presently receives the Tame out of Oxfordshire (of which river elsewhere) and now by a compound word being call'd Thamisis (the Thames,The Thames. Sinodun.) first makes a visit to Sinodun an high hill, defended with a deep ditch, where 'tis certain in ancient times there was a Roman fortification; for the ground being now broken up with the Plough, Roman Coins (a certain sign of antiquity) are now and then found by the Ploughmen.
Bretwel.Beneath it, at Brettwell, there was a Castle (if it were not really upon this hill) which Henry 2.Rob. Montensis. took by force, a little before his making peace with King Stephen. From hence the Thames bends it's course to the once chief City of the Attrebatii, call'd by Antoninus Galleva Attrebatum, by Ptolemy Galeva; but both of them through the carelesness of Copiers name it wrong, instead of Gallena; Gallena. and these likewise in the Greek Copies obtrude upon us [...], by a transposition of the letters, for [...]. For I have been of the opinion that it was so call d in the British tongue, as it were Guall hen, that is, the Old Fort. Which name being still kept, and Ford, from a shallow place in the river, added to it,a the Saxons in ancient times call'd itb Guallengaford and Wallengaford, and we now-a-days by contraction Wallingford. Wallingford. In K. Edward the Confessor's time it was counted a Borough, and contain'd in it (as we find in Domesday book) 276Hagas. houses, yielding 9 pound De G [...]. Tax; and those that dwelt there did the King service on horseback, or else by water. Of those houses eight were destroy'd for the Castle. It was formerly walled about, and, as may be seen by the tract, was ac mile in compass; it hath a castle seated upon the river, very large, and so well fortify'd in former times, that the hopes of it's being impregnable hath made some persons over-resolute. For when the flames of Civil War, had, as it were, set all England on fire, we read that King Stephen ever now and then attempted it by siege, but still in vain. We much wonder'd at it's greatness and magnificence, when we were boys and retir'd thither from Oxford, (for it is now a retiring place for the Students of Christ-Church at Oxford,) it being double wall'd, and surrounded withd two ditches. In the middle stands a tower, rais'd upon a very high mount; in the steep ascent whereof, which you climb by stairs, I saw a well of an exceeding depth. The Inhabitants believe it was built by the Danes; but I should rather judge, that something was here erected by the Romans, and afterwards demolish'd by the Saxons and Danes, when Sueno the Dane harrass'd the Country up and down in these parts. At length it recover'd it self under William 1. as plainly appears by Domesday Book, where it makes mention of eightHaga [...]. Houses being pull'd down for the Castle, as I observ'd but now. Yet William Gemeticensis takes no notice of this Castle, when he writes, that William the Norman, after Harold's defeat, immediately led his army to this city (for so he terms it,) and passing the Thames at the ford, encamp'd here, before he march'd to London.Lords of Wallingford. At which time Wigod an Englishman was Lord of Wallingford, who had one only daughter given in marriage to Robert D'Oily, by whom he had Maud his sole heir, married first to Miles Crispin, and after his death by the favour of K. Henry 1. to Brient Fillo Comitis. Fitz-Count; and he being bred a soldier, and taking part with Maud the Empress, stoutly defended the Castle against King Stephen, (who had rais'd a Fort over against it at Craumesh) till the peace, so much wish'd for by England in general, was concluded in this place, and that terrible quarrel between King Stephen and K. Henry 2. was ended. And then the love of God did so prevail upon Brient and his wife, that quitting the transitory vanities of this world, they wholly devoted themselves to Christ; by which means this Honour of Wallingford fell to the Crown. Which appears by these words taken out of an old Inquisition in the Exchequer, To his well beloved Lords, Of the Honour of Wallingford in T [...] de N [...] [...] the Exchequer. our Lord the King's Justices and the Barons of the Exchequer, the Constable of Wallingford, Greeting. Know ye that I have made diligent Inquisition by the Knights of my Bailywick, in pursuance of my Lord the King's precept directed to me by the Sheriff; and this is the summe of the inquisition thus taken: Wigod of Wallingford held the honour of Wallingford in K. Harold's time, and afterwards in the reign of K. William 1. and had by his Wife a certain Daughter, whom he gave in marriage to Robert D'Oily. This Robert had by her a Daughter named Maud, which was his heir. Miles Crispin espous'd her, and had with her the aforesaid honour of Wallingford. After Miles's decease, our Lord K. Henry 1. bestow'd the aforesaid Maud upon Brient Fitz-Count, &c. Yet afterwards, in the reign [Page 141-142] of Henry 3. it belong'd to the Earls of Chester, and then to Richard King of the Romans and Earl of Cornwall, who repaired it; and to his son Edmond, who founded a Collegiate Chapel within the inner Court: but he dying issueless, it fell again to the Crown, and was annexed to the Dukedom of Cornwall, since when it hath fallen much to decay. More especially about the time when that plague and mortality which follow'd the conjunction of Saturn and Mars in Capricorn,A terrible [...]ague. reign'd so hotly through all Europe in the year of our Lord 1343. Then this Wallingford by that great mortality was so exhausted, that whereas before it was very well inhabited, and had 12 Churches in it, now it can shew but one or two. But the inhabitants rather lay the cause of this their town's decay upon the bridges built at Abingdon and Dorchester, e by which means the High-road is turn'd from thence [g].
From hence Southward the Thames gently glides between very fruitful fields on both sides of it, by Moulesford, Moulesford which K. Henry 1. gave to Girald Fitz-Walter, from whom the noble Family of the Carews are descended. A family that hath receiv'd the addition of much honour by it's matches with the noble families of Mohun, and Dinham, and others in Ireland, as well as England. Not far from hence is Aldworth, where there are certain tombs, and statues upon them larger than ordinary, much wonder'd at by the common people, as if they were the pourtraictures of Giants; when indeed they are only those of certain Knights of the family of De la Beche, which had a Castle here, and is suppos'd to have been extinct for want of male-issue in the reign of Edward 3. And now at length the Thames meets with the Kenet, The river [...]enet. which, as I said before, watering the south-side of this County, at it's first entry, after it has left Wiltshire, runs beneath Hungerford, [...]unger [...]rd. call'd in ancient times Ingleford Charnam-street, a mean town, and seated in a moist place, which yet gives both name and title to the honourable family of the Barons of Hungerford, first advanc'd to it's greatness byf Walter Hungerford, who was Steward of the King's Houshold under King Henry 5. and had conferr'd upon by that Prince's bounty (in consideration of his eminent services in the wars) the Castle and Barony of Homet in Normandy, to hold to him and his heirs males by homage and service to find the King and his heirs at the Castle of Roan one Lance with a Fox's tail hanging to it: [...]ima pars [...]pl. Pa [...]. Nor [...]n. 6 H. 5. which pleasant tenure I thought not amiss to insert here among serious matters. The same Walter in the reign of Henry 6. was Lord High Treasurer of England, [...]rons [...]ngerford and created Baron Hungerford; and what by his prudent management, and his matching with Catherine Peverell (descended from the Moels and the Courteneys) much augmented his estate. His son Robert, who marry'd the daughter and heir of the Lord Botereaux, enrich'd the family more; and then Robert his son, who had to Wife Eleanor, the daughter and heir of William Molines (upon which account he was honour'd among the Barons of the Kingdom, by the name of Lord Molines, and during the Civil Wars between the Houses of York and Lancaster was beheaded at New-castle) made great additions to it. Thomas his son, slain at Salisbury in his father's life-time, left Mary an only daughter, married to Edward Lord Hastings, with whom he had a great estate. But Walter, brother to the said Thomas, begat Edward Hungerford, father of that Walter whom Henry 8. created Baron Hungerford of Heytesbury, and condemned afterwards for a very heinous crime: nevertheless Queen Mary restor'd his children to every thing but the dignity of Barons [h]. Not far from hence towards the South lies Widehay, [...]idehay. long the seat of the Barons of St. Amand, [...]ons of Amand. whose estate by marriage came to Gerard Braybrok; and Elizabeth his eldest grand-daughter by his son Gerard transferr'd the estate by marriage to William Beauchamp, who being summon'd to Parliament by the name of William Beauchamp of St. Amand, [...]uchamp [...] Amand was a Baron; as his son Richard also was, who had no legitimate issue.
From thence the river Kenet taking it's course between Hemsted Marshall, anciently heldPer virgam Marescalliae. by the Rod of the Marshalsea, and belonging to the Marshals of England, where† Thomas Parry Treasurer of the Houshold to Queen Elizabeth built a very fine seat; and Benham Valence, so call'd, from it's belonging to William Valence Earl of Pembroke7; comes to Spinae, Spinae. the old town mention'd by Antoninus; which retaining still it's name, is call'd Spene; but instead of a town is now a poor little village, scarce a mile from Newbury, a noted town that had it's rise out of the ruines of it. For Newbury Newbury. with us is as much as the New Borough, that is, in regard to Spinae the more ancient place, which is quite decay'd, but hath left the name in part of Newbury it self, still call'd Spinhamlands. And if nothing else, yet this certainly might prove that Newbury fetcht it's original from Spinae; for that the inhabitants of Newbury owns the little village Spene for their mother, tho' Newbury (compar'd with Spene) is for it's buildings and neatness a very considerable town, and much enrich'd by cloathing, well seated upon a plain, and has the river Kenet running through it. In the Norman Conquest this town fell to Ernulph de Hesdin Earl of Perch,Lib. Inquisitionum. whose great grandson Thomas Earl of Perch being slain at the siege of Lincoln, the Bishop of Chalons, his heir, sold it to William Marshall Earl of Pembroke, who likewise held the mannour of Hempsted hard by (spoken of before) as did his successors Marshals of England, till Roger Bigod for his obstinacy lost his honour of Earl Marshal and possessions too, which notwithstanding by muchprecariò. intercession he obtain'd again for life [i].
The Kenet continues on his course from hence, and receives by the way the little river Lamborn, Lamborn. which at it's rise imparts the name to a small market-town, that in ancient times belong'd to Alfrith K. Alfred's Cousin, having been left him by the said King in his Will; and afterwards was the Fitzwarin's, who obtain'd the privilege of a market of Henry 3. But now it belongs to the Knightly family of Essex, which derives it's pedigree from William de Essex Under-Treasurer of England in Edw. 4.'s time; and from those of the same sirname in Essex, that liv'd in great repute and honour there. From thence this little river runs beneathg Dennington, Dunnington-castle. call'd also Dunnington, a little but very neat castle, seated on the brow of a woody hill, having a fine prospect, and windows on all sides very lightsome. They say it was built by Sir Richard de Abberbury Knight, founder also of God's House beneath it, for the relief of the poor. Afterwards it was the residence ofh Chaucer, then of the De la Poles; and within the memory of our fathers, of Charles Brandon Duke of Suffolk.
And now the Kenet having run a long way, passes at last by Aldermaston, Aldermaston. which Henry 1. gave to Robert Achard, from whose posterity by the De la Mares it came at length by right of marriage to the Fosters, a Knightly family. At last it runs into the Thames, having first with it's windings encompass'd a great part of Reading. This little city or town of Reading, Reading. call'd in SaxonPer virgam Marescalliae. Rheadyge (of Rhea, that is, the River; or of the British word Redin, signifying Fern, which grew in great plenty hereabouts,) for the neatness of it's streets, the fineness of it's buildings, for it's riches, and the reputation it hath gotten for making of cloath, goes beyond all the other towns of this county; tho' it hath lost it's greatest ornaments, the beautiful Church, and very ancient Castle [k]. For this (as Asserius tells us) the Danes kept possession of, when they drew a ditch between the Kenet and the Thames; and hither they retreated after King Ethelwolph had routed them at Inglefield, Inglefield. a little village in the neighbourhood which gives name to a noble and ancient family. But it was so demolish'd by K. Henry 2. (because it was a place of refuge for King Stephen's party) that nothing now [Page 143-144] remains of it, but the bare name in the next street. Near to this K. Hen. 1. having pull'd down a little Nunnery (founded in former times by Queen Alfritha, to expiate for some crimes) built a most magnificent Abbey for Monks, and enrich'd it with great Revenues. Which Prince, to use the very words of his Charter of Foundation, Because three Abbeys in the kingdom of England were formerly for their sins destroy'd, that is, Reading, Chelsea, and Leonminstre, which were long in Lay-mens hands; by the advice of the Bishops, founded a new Monastery at Reading, and endow'd it with Reading, Chelsea, and Leonminstre. In this Abbey was interr'd the Founder himself King Henry7,Maud the Empress. together with his daughter Maud, as appears by the private history of the place; tho' some report that she was bury'd at Becc in Normandy. Who, as well as that Lacedaemonian Lady Lampido mention'd by Pliny, was a King's Daughter, a King's Wife, and a King's Mother: that is, Daughter of this Henry 1. King of England, Wife of Henry 4. Emperor of Germany, and Mother to Henry 2. King of England. Concerning which, take here a Distich inscrib'd upon her tomb, in my judgment ingenious enough.
And she might well be counted greatest and most happy in her issue.De nugis Curial. l. 6. c. 18. For Henry 2.Henry 2. her son (as Joannes Sarisburiensis, who liv'd in those times, hath observ'd) was the best King of Britain, the most fortunate Duke of Normandy and Aquitain; and as well for the greatness of his actions, as his excellent virtues, above all others. How valiant, how magnificent, how wise and modest he was, as I may say from his very infancy, envy it self can neither conceal nor dissemble, since his actions are still fresh in our memory, and conspicuous; since he hath extended the monuments of his power from the bounds of Britain to the Marches of Spain. And in another place concerning the same Prince, Henry 2. the mightiest King that ever was of Britain, thunder'd it about Garumna, and besieging Tholouse with success, did not only strike terror into the inhabitants of Provence as far as the Rhosne and Alpes, but also by demolishing their strongholds, and subduing the people, made the Princes of France and Spain to tremble, as if he threatned an universal conquest. I will add farther, if you please, a word or two relating to the same Prince, out of Giraldus Cambrensis: From the Pyrenaean Mountains unto the western bounds and farthest limits of the northern Ocean, this our Alexander of the West hath stretched forth his arm. As far therefore as nature in these parts hath enlarged the Land, so far hath he extended his victories. If the bounds of his Expeditions were sought for, sooner wou'd the globe of the earth fail, than they end; for where there is valour and resolution, lands may possibly be wanting, but victories can never fail; matter for triumphs may be wanting, but triumphs themselves never. How great an addition to his glories, titles, and triumphs was Ireland? With how great and stupendous a courage did he pierce thro' the very secret and occult places of the Ocean? But take here an old verse upon his death, which fully expresses in short both all this, and also the glories of his son King Richard 1.
Rich. 1.For Richard was so far from bringing night upon this our Nation, that by his Victories in Cyprus and Syria he enlighten'd it with brighter beams of glory. But this by way of digression. Let us now return from persons to places. This Monastery wherein King Hen. 1. lies interr'd, is now convertedi into a Royal Seat; adjoyning to which stands a very fine stable, stor'd with noble horses of the King's. But concerning this place, take these verses of the Poet describing the Thames running by it.
Scarce half a mile from Reading, amongst fine green Meadows, the Kenet joyns the Thames; which by the conflux being much enlarg'd, spreads it self towards the north, running by Sunning Sunning. a little village, that one would wonder should ever have been the See of eight Bishops, who had this County and Wiltshire for their Diocese; yet our Histories report as much. The same was afterwards translated by Herman to Sherburn, and at last to Salisbury, to which bishoprick this place still belongs8. Not far off stands Laurence Waltham, where the foundations of an old fort are to be seen, and Roman coins are often digg'd up9. Thence the Thames passes by Bistleham, contracted now into Bisham, Bisham. at first a Lordship of the Knights Templers, then of the Montacutes 10, who built a little Monastery here; afterwards of that noble Knight Sir Edw. Hobey, Sir Edw [...] Hobey. a person to whom I owe a particular respect, and whose more than ordinary obligations are so much the subject of my thoughts, that I can never possibly forget them.
The Thames now bidding adieu to Bisham, fetches a compass to a little town call'd in former ages Southealington 11, now Maidenhead, Maidenhead. A [...] cap [...] from I know not what British Maiden's head, one of those eleven thousand Virgins, who, as they returned home from Rome with Ursula their Leader, suffer'd Martyrdom near Cologne in Germany, from that scourge of God, Attila. Neither is this town of any great antiquity; for no longer ago than our great grandfathers time, there was a ferry, in a place somewhat higher, at Babhams end. But after they had built here a wooden bridge upon piles, it began to have inns, and to be so frequented, as to outvie its neighbouring mother Bray, a much more ancient place, as having given name to the whole Hundred. I have long been of the opinion, that the Bibroci, Bibroci. who submitted themselves to Caesar's protection, held these parts; and why shou'd I not think so? There are very clear and plain remains of the name; Bibracte likewise in France, is now contracted into Bray, and not far from hence Caesar cross'd the Thames with his army (as I shall shew in its proper place) when these parts submitted themselves to him. Certainly, shou'd one [Page 145-146] seek for the Bibroci elsewhere, he wou'd, I believe, hardly find them.
[...]dior.Among these Bibroci stands Windesore, in Saxon (perhaps from the winding shore) Wyndleshora, for so it is term'd in K. Edw. the Confessor's Charter, who in these very words made a Grant of it to Westminster. To the praise of Almighty God, I have granted as an endowment and perpetual inheritance, to the use of those that serve the Lord, Windleshore, with its appurtenances. And I have read nothing more ancient concerning Windsor. Windsor. But the Monks had not long held it in possession, when William the Norman, by exchange, brought it back to the crown. For thus his Charter runs: With the consent and favour of the venerable Abbot of Westminster, I have enter'd into a composition about Windsor's being in the possession of the Crown, because that place seems commodious by the nearness of the river, the forest fit for hunting, and many other particulars therein convenient for Kings; being likewise a place fit for the King's entertainment: in lieu whereof, I have granted them Wokendune and Ferings. Scarce any Royal Seat can certainly have a more pleasant situation. For from an high hill rising with a gentle ascent, it hath an admirable prospect round about. Its front overlooks a long and wide valley, chequer'd with corn-fields and green meadows, clothed on each side with groves, and water'd with the calm and gentle Thames. Behind it arise hills every where, neither craggy, nor over-high, adorn'd with woods, and, as it were, consecrated by nature it self to Hunting. The pleasantness of it hath drawn many of our Princes hither, as to a retiring place; and here was K. Edw. 3. (that potent Prince) born to conquer France: who built new from the ground a Castle, in bigness equal to a little City, strengthen'd with ditches, and towers of square-stone; and having presently after subdu'd the French and the Scots, kept at the same time John King of France, and David King of Scots, Prisoners here. This Castle is divided into two Courts. The inner, which looks towards the East, contains in it the King's palace; than which, if you consider the contrivance of the buildings, nothing can be more stately and magnificent. On the north-side, where it looks down to the river, Queen Elizabeth added a most pleasant Terrace-Walk. The outer Court hath at it's entrance a stately Chapel, consecrated by K. Edw. 3. to the blessed Virgin Mary, and St. George of Cappadocia; but brought to it's present magnificence by K. Edw. 4.12. Here K. Edw. 3. [...]35 [...]. for the encouraging military virtue, and the adorning it with honours, rewards, and glory, instituted the most noble society of Knights, which (as some report) from his own Garter given for the Word in a battel that prov'd successful, he stiled Knights of the Garter. [...] of G [...]r [...]r. They wear on their left leg, a little below the knee, a blue Garter, carrying this Motto embroider'd in letters of gold, and in French, HONI SOIT QUI MAL Y PENSE, and fasten the same with a buckle of gold, as a token of Concord and a tye of the strictest Amity, to the end there might be amongst them a certain Consociation and community of Virtues. Others attribute it to the Garter of the Queen, or rather of Joan Countess of Salisbury (a Lady of incomparable beauty) that fell from her as she was a dancing, and the King took up from the floor; at which the Nobles that stood about him fell a laughing: whereupon the King told them, That the time should shortly come when the greatest honour imaginable should be paid to that Garter. This is the common report; neither need it seem to be a mean original, considering that, as one saith, Nobilitas sub amore jacet, i.e. Nobility lies under love. There are some too, that make the invention of this order much ancienter; fathering it upon K. Rich. 1. and persuading themselves that K. Edward only reviv'd it: but how truly, I know not. Yet in the very book of the first Institution, which William Dethick Garter Principal King at Arms (a Gentleman very studious in every thing relating to Honour and the Nobility) gave me a sight of, we read thus: When K. Richard led his Army against the Turks and * Saracens, [...]nos. Cyprus and Acon, and was weary of such lingring delay, while the siege was carried on with a wonderful deal of trouble; at length, upon a divine inspiration, (by the apparition, as it was thought, of St. George) it came into his mind, to draw upon the legs of certain chosen Knights of his, a certain tach of leather, such as he had then ready at hand, whereby being minded of that future glory was then promised them if they conquer'd, it might be an incitement to push them on to the behaving themselves with courage and resolution: in imitation of the Romans, that had such variety of crowns, with which, upon several accounts, they presented and honour'd their soldiers, that, as it were, by instigations of this kind, cowardise might be shaken off, and valour and bravery might arise and start out with more vigour and resolution.
However, the mightiest Princes of Christendom have reputed it a very great honour to be chosen; and since it's first institution, there have been already admitted into this Order (which consists of 26 Knights) 22 Kings, or thereabouts, besides our Kings of England, who are term'd Sovereigns Sovereigns. thereof; not to mention a great many Dukes and other persons of the greatest quality. And here,Founders of the Order. I think it will not be amiss, to set down the names of those who were first admitted into this Order, and are commonly call'd the Founders of the Order; for their glory can never be obliterated, who in those days for military valour and bravery had very few Equals, and were upon that account advanced to this honour.
- Edward 3. King of England.
- Edward his eldest son, Prince of Wales.
- Henry Duke of Lancaster.
- Thomas Earl of Warwick.
- Capdall de Buche.
- Ralph Earl of Stafford.
- William Montacute Earl of Salisbury.
- Roger Mortimer Earl of March.
- John L'isle.
- Bartholomew Burgwash.
- John Beauchamp.
- John de Mohun.
- Hugh Courtney.
- Thomas Holland.
- John Grey.
- Richard Fitz-Simon.
- Miles Stapleton.
- Thomas Walle.
- Hugh Wrothesley.
- Niel Loring.
- John Chandos.
- James de Awdeley.
- Otho Holland.
- Henry Eme.
- Zanchet Dabridgecourt.
- 13 William Paynel.
On the left side of the Chapel, are the houses of the Warden or Dean, and the 12 Prebendaries. On the right-side is a building, much of the nature of the Grecian Prytaneum, in which 12 aged soldiers, Gentlemen born, are maintained. These wear constantly a scarlet gown, reaching down to their ankles, with a purple mantle over it; and are bound to be at Divine Service, and to offer up their prayers dayly to God Almighty for the Knights of the Order. Betwixt the two Courts there rises up an high mount, on which the Round Tower stands; and hard by it stands another lofty Tower, called Winchester-Tower, from William of Wickham Bishop of Winchester, whom K. Edw. 3. made overseer of the work. Some report that Wickham, after he had built the Tower, cut these words, (which are not to be express'd with the same turn in Latin) in a certain inner wall,Wickham's Apothegm. This made Wickham. Which sentence, in the English tongue, that seldom makes any distinction of cases, bears such a doubtful construction, that it makes it uncertain, whether he made the Castle, or the Castle made him. This was carried to the King by some private Backbiters, and represented so to his prejudice, as if Wickham did arrogantly challenge to himself all the [Page 147-148] honour of the building. Which when that King took ill, and sharply chid him for it; he made this answer, that he had not arrogated to himself the honour of so magnificent an royal a Palace, but accounted this piece of work as the cause of all his preferments. Neither have I (continued he) made this Castle, but this Castle hath made me, and from a mean condition advanc'd me to the King's favour, riches, and honours. Under the castle towards the West and South, lies the town, indifferently large and populous: since K. Edward 3.'s time it hath grown into reputation; and the other which stands further off, now call'd Old Windsor, hath by little and little fallen to decay: in which (in the reign of William 1. as we read in his book) there were an hundred Hagae. houses, whereof 22 were exempt from tax de Gablo.; out of the rest there went 30 shillings. Here is nothing else worth mentioning, but Eaton, Eaton. which lies over against Windsor on the other side of the Thames, and is joyn'd to it by a wooden bridge: it hath a fine College, and a noted School for Humanity-learning, founded by K. Henry 6. wherein, besides the Provost, 8 Fellows, and the Choire, 60 Scholars are maintain'd gratis, taught Grammar, and in due time are preferr'd to the University of Cambridge. But this is reckon'd to be in Buckinghamshire. There remains nothing more to say of Windsor, but that there is an honourable family of Barons,Barons of Windsor. sirnam'd de Windsor, who fetch their original from Walter son of Other, Castellane of Windsor in the reign of K. William 1. from whom likewise Robert Glover Somerset-Herald (a person very industrious and skilful in the art of Heraldry) hath prov'd that the Fitzgeralds in Ireland, Earls of Kildare and Desmond, are descended. And now let it not be thought troublesom to run over these verses upon Windsor, taken out of the marriage of Tame and Isis, written some years since; in which Father Thames endeavours to celebrate the dignity of the place, and the Majesty of Queen Elizabeth then keeping her Court there.
The rest of Barkshire, Wind [...] For [...]t that is southward from Windsor, and is shadow'd with woods and groves, is commonly call'd Windsor-Forest, and is but thinly planted with villages (of which Okingham is the most noted for it's bigness, and cloathing trade;) but is well stock'd every where with game. Now (since we [Page 149-150] have often already,A Forest [...]hat it is, [...]nd whence [...]o called. and shall hereafter speak of Forests) if you have a desire seriously to know what a Forest is, and whence the name comes, take it here out of the Black Book of the Exchequer. A Forest is a safe harbour for beasts, not every sort, but for such as are wild: not in every place, but in some certain places fit for the purpose: whence it is call'd Foresta, quasi Feresta, that is Ferarum statio. And it is incredible how much ground the Kings of England have suffer'd every where to lie wast, and have set apart for the shutting up of Deer; or, as our writers term it, have afforested. Neither can I believe that any thing else was the cause,Or for [...]ding the [...]rt in [...]son. but too great delight in * hunting (tho' some attribute it to want of people;) for since the Danish times, they have continually afforested more and more places, and for their preservation have imposed very strict laws, and appointed a Chief-Ranger or Forester, Chief-ran [...]er. who is to take cognizance of all causes relating to the Forests, and may punish with loss of life or limb any one that shall kill the Deer in any Chase or Forest. But Joannes Sarisburiensis shall briefly relate these things in his own words out of his Polycraticon: That which will make you more admire, to lay gins for birds, to lay snares, to allure them with springs or pipe, or to entrap them any manner of way, is by proclamation often made a crime, punishable with forfeiture of goods, or loss of limb and life. You have heard that the fowls of the air and fishes of the sea are common. But these are the King's, and are claimed by the Forest-Law where e're they fly. With-hold thine hand, and forbear, lest thou fall into the Huntsman's hands, and be punish'd for Treason. The Husbandmen are debarr'd their Fallows, whilst the Deer have liberty to stray abroad; and that their feedings may be enlarg'd, the Farmer is cut short of the use of his own grounds. What is sown or planted they keep from the Countryman, pasturage from the Graziers, and throw the Bee-hives out of the Flowry Plots; nay, even the Bees themselves are scarce suffer'd to use their natural liberty. Which courses seeming too inhumane, have often been the occasion of great troubles, till by the Barons revolt, the Charta de Foresta was extorted from Henry 3. wherein, having abrogated those rigorous laws, he granted others more equitable, to which those that live within the limits of the Forests are at this day bound to be conformable. Afterwards,Justices in Eyre. two Justices were appointed for these causes, whereof one presides over all the Forests on this side the river Trent, the other over those beyond it as far as Scotland, with great authority. Throughout all this County (as we find in the Survey-book of England) The Taine or King's Knight, holding of him as Lord, whensoever he died, left to the King for a Relief, all his Armour, one Horse with a Saddle, and another without a Saddle. And if he had either Hounds or Hawks, they were tendred to the King, that if he pleas'd, he might take them. When Geld was given in K. The Confessor. Edward's time throughout all Barkshire, an hide yielded 3 d. ob. before Christmas, and as much at Whitsuntide. Thus much of Barkshire, which as yet has given no person the title of Earl.
There are in this County 140 Parishes.
The Countries we have been travelling over, that is, those of the Danmonii, Durotriges, Belgae, and Attrebatii, while the Saxons had the Sovereignty here in Britain, fell to the Kingdom of the West-Saxons, which they in their language call'dk Weast-Seaxan-ric, as they did themselves Geguysis, from Cerdic's grandfather, who first enrich'd this Kingdom: whence some call them Geuissi, and others Visi-Saxones, from their western situation; as the Western Goths are nam'd Visi-Gothi. These at length, when the English Empire was grown to maturity, reduc'd the Saxon Heptarchy into a Monarchy, which nevertheless afterwards thro' the laziness of their Kings, quickly grew as it were decrepit, and easily vanish'd. So that herein we daily see it confirm'd, that the race of the most valiant, and noblest Families, as the Shoots of Plants, have their first sprouting up, their time of flowring, and maturity; and in the end fade and die by little and little.
ADDITIONS to BARKSHIRE.
[...]e name Bark [...].[a] WHAT the original of this County's name may be, is much harder to determine; than to show that those which are commonly produc'd, are certainly false. The Berrock and Beroke might have something in them, if our Author's name of the Shire, Berrocscyre, were the true one. From whence he had it, I know not; nor can I be so uncharitable as to believe, he would model it so on purpose to suit that conjecture. 'Tis plain however from the most ancient Annals of the Saxons, that the old name was Bearrucscire, which according to different ages we find afterwards first written Bearrucsyre, and then Barrucscire; from which the present name is easily melted.
[...] the [...]'s [...]e.[b] As for the Isis, being call'd afterwards Thamisis; neither the true name of the river is in any ancient Record, Isis, (which was forg'd at first to encourage that opinion of Thame and Isis;) nor is the meeting of those two rivers the cause of Thamisis, it being call'd Tems all along before their joyning, as well as after. For the proof of both, it may be sufficient to refer the Reader to what is observ'd before upon this subject, [...]age 99. in * Wiltshire.
At the south part of Oxford, there begins a great Causey, going from Frier-Bacon's study, near two miles towards Abingdon ‖; [...]br. Mon. [...]an. which one would imagine had been a work of the Romans, but that it appears by Record to have been made by Robert Doiley in the time of William the Conqueror.
[c] The Thames running by Oxford, goes on to Abingdon, [...]gdon. which as it is now the Shire town for all publick business; so was it formerly eminent for Meetings about the weighty affairs of the whole Kingdom. For which reason, and it's ancient name Sheovesham (written by Leland, whether from Record or by a mistake I know not, Seukesham,) I am enclin'd to think this the very place wherein two Synods were held, one in the year 742. and the other in 822. both said to be at Clofes-hoo. For tho' Mr. Camden settles it in Kent, yet he expresses himself not fully convinc'd of the certainty of his opinion: and I know not of any Author that agrees with him in calling it Clives at Ho; which indeed gives the greatest colour to his opinion. But what he himself suggests, that it seems to have been in Mercia, and that that is not by any means a convenient place for a Synod or Council, are unanswerable objections. For one may imagine that Aethelbald King of the Mercians had the greatest hand in it, because the Saxon Annals mention him particularly, as present; and that in Kent is too much in a corner to answer the character of Clofeshoo, mention'd only twice in the Annals, and both times expresly said to be the place of a Synod. And in a Council at Hertford, in 672. we find it decreed, that there should be two Synods yearly; but because there are several incidental causes might prevent them, it was unanimously agreed however that there should one meet yearly the first day of August, at the place call'd Clofeshoh. Which can never be suppos'd, unreasonably to point out a place so little for the convenience of most of the members; but may very rationally be meant of Abingdon, a place perhaps as eligible by all parties as could well be thought of. At present this town is particularly honour'd by affording to the right honourable James Bertie the title of Earl.
[d] From hence we come to White-horse-hill, White-horse-hill. the head of the river Ock; above which, by Ashbury-park, [Page 151-152] Aubr. Monum. MS. is a Camp, of a figure as near round as square, the diameter above an hundred paces, and the works single; which seems to prove it Danish. But the works are now almost quite spoil'd and defac'd by digging for the Sarsden-stones (as they call them) to build my Lord Craven's house in the park.
Above the same hill, there is another Camp with single works, but very large; and at about two furlongs distance, is a barrow call'd Dragon-hill: but whether from hence one should conclude this to be the tumulus of Uther Pendragon, since the conjecture is not warranted by any direct testimony from history, I leave to others to determine. As also, whether the White horse on the hill-side was made by Hengist, since the Horse was the Arms or figure in Hengist's standard.
About a mile from the hill, there are a great many large stones, which tho' very confus'd, must yet have been laid there on purpose. Some of them are plac'd edge-wise; but the rest are so disorderly, that one would imagine they had been tumbl'd out of a cart.
[e] Next is Pusey, Pusey. which (as our Author observes) the Puseys hold by a Horn granted them by Canutus. But whether his authority be the private Records of the Estate, or the Inscription of an horn still in the possession of that family, and implying what he affirms; I cannot be certain. The latter is more probable, and if so, liable to this Exception, that both the character and stile are modern; many hundreds of years after the Conquest: so that of what antiquity soever the Horn it self may be, the Inscription must have been added long after the age of Canutus. Not but the tradition of Canutus's giving it may be very true, since there are so many instances of this kind in many parts of England; and Ingulphus has expresly told us, that in those days it was common (among other things) to make Grants of Lands by Horns.
[f] A mile above Wantage, east from Ashbury, there is a very large Camp on the brow of a hill, of a quadrangular form and single-work'd; from which it appears to be Roman.
Cuckamsley-hill.East from hence is Cuckamsley hill, call'd in Saxon Cƿichelmes-hleaƿe, and by Florence of Worcester Cuiccelmeslawe; from whence, by degrees, the present name is melted, and the word hill added by a tautology, for want of knowing that hleaƿe in the Saxon implies so much.Chron. Sax. An. 1006. Over this it was that the Danes pass'd in their Depredations, after they had destroy'd Wallingford, in the year of our Lord 1006.
[g] The Thames passing from Abingdon through Sunning, goes to Wallingford, Wallingford. which appears to have been formerly a town of very great note, as from our Author's description, so also fromItinerar. MS. Leland's observation, that it had once 14 Parish-Churches, and that there were in his time several persons living, who could shew the places where they all stood, and the Church yards that belong'd to them. Notwithstanding the two great misfortunes mention'd by our Author: their Mault-trade, and the convenience of sending corn and other commodities by water to London, do still support it; so that of late years 'tis very much encreas'd both in buildings and number of inhabitants. It is a Corporation govern'd by a Mayor and six Aldermen, who are Justices of the Peace within the Burrough; and there is a Free-school, and a Market-house wherein the Mayor and Justices keep the Quarter-Sessions.
[h] The Thames running from hence, receives the Kennet, upon which stands Hungerford, Hungerford. a town particularly famous for the best Trouts; but tho' it be situate upon a great road, yet neither are its buildings or market very considerable. The Constable (who is annually chosen) is Lord of the Mannour, and holds it immediately of the King; so that our Author seems to express it in terms too general, when he says, that all the Hungerford's Lands were restor'd to the Children of Walter Lord Hungerford; who was executed for a crime not fit to be mention'd. They have in this town a Horn, holding about a quart; the Inscription whereof affirms it to have been given by John of Gaunt along with the Rial-fishing (so 'tis there express'd,) in a certain part of the river.
[i] From thence the Kennet runs to Newbury, Newbury. famous for the Engagements there between his Majesty King Charles 1. and the Parliament-Army, in the late Civil Wars.
[k] And then to Reading, Reading. in Saxon (as our Author observes) Rheadyge, tho' the Saxon Annals call it Reading, Raeding, and Reding. Where the Castle stood,Itinerar. MS. Leland says he could not exactly discover; but imagines it might stand at the west-end of Castle-street. It is probable, that some part of the Abbey was built out of the ruins of it, and it might perhaps be upon the very spot where the Abbey was. Now, there is not so much as a tradition of any Castle that ever was there: only the precincts of the Abbey are some signs of Fortifications; but those they affirm to have been cast up no longer since than the last Civil Wars; and the tracks also of the two Bastions are according to the modern way of fortifying. However, the Coins found there are an evidence of the Antiquity of the place; one particularly of gold, and another of brass: but of what People I have not learn'd. The great support of the town (as our Author hints, and Leland expresly tells us) was Cloathing; but the convenience of the river giving great encouragement to the Mault-trade, they now apply themselves especially to that, and find it turn to so good account, that their employment about Cloath is in a great measure laid aside. For whereas they have had formerly sevenscore Clothiers, now their number is but very small.
[l] Next, the Thames goes to Windsor, call'd in Saxon Windlesoure, Windlesora, and also Windlesofra, from the winding banks, ofre in that language signifying a bank or shore. The Kings of England have all along had a great affection for this place upon the account of it's situation; but none more than King Charles 2. who at great expences very much beautified the Lodgings both by curious Paintings and other improvements.
EARLS of Barkshire.
This County gave the title of Earl first to Francis Norris, created Jan. 28. 1620. but he dying without issue-male, it was bestow'd upon Thomas Howard, Viscount Andover, who was succeeded in it by Charles his son and heir; and this Charles, by Thomas Howard his brother.
More rare Plants growing wild in Barkshire.
Myrtus Brabantica sive Elaeagnus Cordi Ger. Gaule or Dutch Myrtle. See the Synonymes in Dorsetshire. By old Windsor park corner. Park. p. 1451.
Orchis galeâ & alis ferè cinercis J. B. Cynos orchis latifolia hiante cucullo minor C. B. latifolia minor Park. major altera Ger. The man Orchies. On Cawsham hills by the Thames-side, not far from Reading.
Polygonatum Ger. vulgare Park. latifolium vulgare C. B. Polygonatum, vulgò sigillum Solomonis J. B. Solomon's Seal. In a field adjoyning to the Wash at Newberry, and in divers other places of Barkshire. Observed by my worthy friend Mr. George Horsnell Chirurgeon in London.
Hieracium Pulmonaria dictum angustifolium. Pulmonaria Gallica seu aurea angustifolia Ger. emac. Narrow-leaved golden Lungwort. Found in an old Roman camp at Sidmonton near Newberry. Ger. emac. p. 305.
REGNI.
NEXT the Attrebatii to the East, the Regni, call'd by Ptolemy [...], inhabited those Counties we now call Surrey and Southsex; with the sea-coast of Hamshire. As to the Etymology of the name, I am inclin'd to conceal my present opinion; because 'tis possible it may be as much out of the way, as if I should affirm the [...] to be so call'd, as being a Regnum or Kingdom; because the Romans granted it the Privilege of continuing under Kingly government. For, as Tacitus tells us, Cogidunus King of the Britains had certain Cities put under his Jurisdiction, according to an ancient custom of the Romans; with no other design than that they might have Kings their tools and slaves. But this conjecture to my self does not appear probable, but to others will seem absurd; and so I casheer it. As for the Saxon names (which are of a later date) I readily close with them, since they have such a clear appearance of truth. Namely, South-sex from the South-Saxons; and Surrey from their Southerly situation upon a river. For that this is the meaning of Suth-rey, no one can deny, that considers how Over-they in the old Saxon signifies Over the river.
SƲTH-REY.
SURREY, call'd by Bede Suthriona, commonly Suthrey and Surrey; by the Saxons, from it's situation upon the South-side of the river, [...]ey. Suðrea, (for Suð with them signifies the South, and rea a river:) joyns upon the West to Barkshire and Hamshire, on the South to Sussex, on the East to Kent; and on the North is wash'd and parted from Middlesex by the river Thames. The County is not very large, but rich enough where it lies upon the Thames; and where it is an open champain, it is tolerably fruitful both in corn and hay, especially to the South, where a continu'd low vale runs along (call'd formerly from the woods, Holmsdale, [...]olmsdale.) which an intermixture of woods, fields and meadows, renders exceeding pleasant. Here and there are long ridges of hills; the parks are every where stor'd with Deer, and the rivers with fish; which two afford the agreeable pleasures of hunting and fishing. It is by some liken'd to a coarse garment, or cloath of a slight and coarse make with a green border; the inner part of the County being barren, the outer, or as it were the hemme, more fruitful. In the survey of it, I will make the Thames and the rivers that flow into it, my guides; by which means I shall omit nothing memorable; all the places of any note for their antiquity, lying upon the rivers.
The Thames (to go along with the stream of it) so soon as it has left Barkshire, glides along toa Chertsey, [...]hertsey. call'd by Bede Ceroti Insula, i.e. the Island of Cerotus: but now it scarce makes a peninsula, except in winter time. In this, as a place most retir'd from the commerce of the world, 666 Frithwald, a petty King of Surrey under Wulpher King of the Mercians (for so he stiles himself in the Foundation-Charter,) and Erchenwald Bishop of London, built a monastery in the infancy of the English Church, which was for some time the burying-place of that most Religious King Henry 6. [...]enry 6. whom the York-family, after they had dethron'd him, cut off, to make themselves more secure of the Crown, and bury'd him here without the least mark of honour. But King Henry 7. removing him to Windsor, bury'd him in a New Tomb with the solemnity becoming a King, and was such an admirer of his Religion and Virtues (for he was an exact pattern of Christian piety and patience,) that he apply'd himself to Pope Julius to have him put in the kalendar of the Saints. [...]tory of [...]anterbury And this had certainly been done, if the Pope's avarice had not stood in the way, who demanded too large a summ for the King's Apotheosis or Canonization; which would have made it look, as if that honour had not been pay'd so much to the sanctity of the Prince, as to gold. Below this place, the little river Wey empties it self into the Thames [a]; which running out of Hamshire, at it's first coming into Surrey, visits Feornham commonly Farnham, Farnham. so nam'd as being a bed of ferns; given by Aethelbald King of the West-Saxons, to the Bishop and Congregation of the Church of Winchester. In this place it was, that about the year 893. King Alfred worsted the plundering Danes with a handful of men; and afterwards, when K. Stephen had granted licence to all those who sided with him to build Castles, Henry of Blois, brother to Stephen, and Bishop of Winchester, built a castle upon the hill that hangs over the town; which because it was a harbour for sedition, K. Henry 3. demolish'd; but after a long time the Bishops of Winchester, to whom it belongs to this day, rebuilt it. Not far from hence at Waverley, Waverley. William Gifford Bishop of Winchester built a little monastery for Cistercian Monks1. From thence the Wey running by Godelminge, which King Alfred gave by Will to Aethelwald, his brother's son; and not far from Catteshull-mannour, Catteshull. which Hamo de Catton held, to be Marshal of the whores when the King should come into those parts; and at a little distance from Loseley, where within a park, I saw a delicate seat of the family of the Mores: by these (I say) it comes to Guilford; Guilford. in Saxon Gulde-ford, and in some Copies Gegldford. It is now a market-town of great resort, and well stor'd with good Inns; but was formerly a Village of the English-Saxon Kings, and given by Will to Athelwald by his [foresaid] Uncle. There is now a house of the King's, tho' gone much to decay; and not far from the river the ruinous walls of an old castle, which has been pretty large. In the middle of the town is a Church, the east end whereof being arch'd with stone, seems to be very ancient. Here (as we learn by Domesday book) the King had 75 Hagae, i.e. houses, Haga. wherein 175 men dwelt. But 'tis famous for nothing so much as the treachery and inhumanity of Godwin Earl of Kent, who in the year of our Lord 1036. when Alfred, King Ethelred's son, and heir to the Crown of England, came out of Normandy to demand his right, receiv'd him with an assurance of safety, but treated him contrary to his promise. For surprizing at a dead time of night the six hundred men which were the retinue of the Royal youth, he punish'd them (as our Writers word it) by a Decimation. Military Decimation. Which was not according to the ancient Rules of War, by drawing out every tenth man by lot, and then killing him: but dispatching nine, dismissed every tenth; and afterwards, with the most extream crueltyredecimavit. retith'd those tenths he had sav'd. And as to Aelfred himself, he deliver'd him to Harold the Dane, who first put out his eyes, then clapt him in chains, and kept him in prison to his dying day [b].
From hence the Wey is carry'd towards the north for a long way together, and meets with nothing worth mentioning, except Sutton, the seat of the [Page 155-156] Westons Knights2; Woking, a royal seat3; and Pyriford, where, in our memory, Edward Earl of Lincoln and Baron Clinton 4, built him a house; and in the neighbourhood Ockham, William Ockham. where William de Ockham, that great Philosopher and Founder of the Nominals, was born, and had his name from the place5. But where it comes to empty it self out at a double mouth into the Thames, we see Otelandes [c], a pretty handsome seat of the King's, built within a park; near which Caesar pass'd the Thames,Where Caesar pass'd the Thames. and enter'd the territories of Cassivelan. For this was the only place in the Thames formerly fordable, and that too not without great difficulty; which the Britains in a manner pointed out to him. For on the other side of the river, a strong body of the British had planted themselves; and the bank it self was senc'd with sharp stakes, and some of the same sort fasten'd under water. The footsteps whereof (says Bede) are seen at this day; and it appears upon the view, that each of them is as thick as a man's thigh, and that soder'd with lead, they stick in the bottom of the river, immoveable. But the Romans enter'd the river with so much vigour and resolution, that tho' they had only their heads above water, the Britains were not able to bear up against them, but were forc'd to quit the bank, and fly for it. 'Tis impossible I should be mistaken in the place, because here the river is scarce six foot deep, and the place at this day, from those stakes, is call'd Cowaystakes; C [...]waystakes. to which add, that Caesar makes the bounds of Cassivelan, where he settles this passage of his, to be about 80 miles distant from that sea which washes the east part of Kent, where he landed: Now this ford we mention is at the same distance from the sea; and I am the first that I know of, that has mention'd and settl'd it in it's proper place.
Some few miles from hence, towards the east, the little river Mole hastens into the sea,Mole riv. after it has cross'd the County from the southern bound; but stop'd at last in it's way, by the opposition of hills,b like that noble river of Spain Anas, Anas, a river in Spain. it forces open a passage under ground, as if it were some mole; from whence it has it's name, that subterraneous animal being call'd in English a Mole. But there is nothing famous upon this river, only at some distance from it's head (near the old military way of the Romans call'd Stanystreat) is the town Aclea, commonly nam'd Ockley Ockley. from the Oaks. Here Aethelwolph son of Egbert (who notwithstanding he had enter'd in to Holy Orders, yet by a dispensation from the Pope succeeded his father hereditarily in the kingdom) engag'd the Danish army with good success, (for he kill'd most of their brave men) tho' with no great advantage to his country; that Danish Hydra still sprouting up a-new [d]. A little from the head of this river stands Gatton, Gatton. now hardly a village, tho' formerly a famous town. As an argument of it's antiquity, it shews Roman coins dug up there, and sends two Burgesses to Parliament. Lower, is Rhie-gat, Rhie-gat. (i.e. according to our ancient language, the course or chanel of a small river) in a vale, running out a great way eastward, call'dc Holmesdale, Holmesdale the inhabitants whereof, because once or twice they defeated the plundering Danes, have this rhime in their own commendation:
This Rhie-gate is more considerable for it's largeness than buildings: on the south-side of it is a park growing thick with little groves; and in this the most noble Charles Earl of Nottingham, Baron of Effingham, and Lord High Admiral of England, has his seat; where formerly the Earls of Warren and Surrey built a small Monastery. On the east-side is a Castle standing upon a high-ground, now neglected, and decay'd with age; it was built by the same Earls, and is commonly call'd Holmes-castle, from the vale in which it stands. Under this there is a wonderful vault, under-ground, of arched work made of freestone, the same with that of the hill it self, and hollow'd with great labour. The Earls of Warren (as it is in the book of Inquisitions) held it in chief of the King in his Barony, from the Conquest of England. In Bar [...] sua de C [...] questa Anglia. From thence it runs by Bechworth's-castle, for which6 Thomas Brown procur'd the privilege of a Fair from Henry the 6th. For it is the seat of the family of the Browns B [...]owns. Knights; of which, in the memory of our grandfathers, after7 Anthony Brown had marry'd Lucy fourth daughter of John Nevil Marquess of Montacute, with whom he had a pretty great fortune; Queen Mary honour'd his grandchild by a son with the title of Viscount Montacute. A few miles hence to the west, we see Effingham, formerly the possession of William Howard (that Conquerour of the Scots, son to Thomas Duke of Norfolk,) who was created Baron Howard of Effingham Effingha [...] by Queen Mary; and being made Lord High Admiral of England, was first, Chamberlain to Queen Elizabeth of blessed memory, and afterwards Keeper of the Privy Seal. His son Charles is now in a flourishing condition, and is Lord High Admiral of England; whom the same Elizabeth, in the year 1597. for his valour and great services, advanced to the dignity of Earl of Nottingham8. But to return to the River.
The Mole coming to Whitehill, upon which box-tree grows in great abundance, hides it self, or is rather swallow'd up at the foot of it; and for that reason the place is call'd Swallow: The Swa [...] low. but after about the space of two miles, it bubbles up and rises again [f]; so that the inhabitants of this tract, no less than the Spaniards,A bridge upon whi [...] flocks of sheep [...] may boast of having a bridge that feeds several flocks of sheep. For the Spaniard has made this a common proverb in relation to the place where the riverd Anas (now call'd Guadiana) hides it self for ten miles together. Our river Mole thus recovering it self from under ground, goes with a slow current9 towards the Thames, and enters it hard by Molesey, to which it communicates the name.
After our Thames has receiv'd the Mole, it posts forward directly to the North;Kingst [...] Matth. P [...] ris. running by Kingstone (formerly call'd Moreford, as some would have it,) a little market-town of very great resort, and once famous for the castle of the Clares Earls of Glocester, having it's rise out of the ruins of a more ancient little town of the same name, situate in a level ground, and much expos'd to inundations. In this town, when the Danish wars had almost quite blown up England, Athelstan, Edwin, and Ethelred, the Kings, were inaugurated10; whereupon, from the Kings, it came to be call'd Kingston, i.e. a Royal Town [g]. In this neighbourhood also the Kings of Englande chose them a seat, which from its shining or splendour they call'd Shene, Richmon [...] the p [...]ace and v [...] call'd Sh [...] before Hen. [...]. Edward but now it has the name of Richmond. Here it was that the most powerful Prince, K. Edward 3. after he had liv'd enough both to glory and nature, dy'd of grief for the loss of his warlike son; whose death was so great an affliction both to him and all England, as made the methods of consolation altogether ineffectual. And indeed, if ever England had a just occasion for sorrow, then it was. For in the space of one year it was entirely bereav'd of it's ornaments of true military discipline, and untainted courage. Both of these carry'd their conquering swords through France, and put such a terrour into that Kingdom, as might deservedly give the father with Anticchus, the name of a Thunderbolt, and the son with Pyrrhus, that of an Eagle. Here also dy'd Anne, Wife of K. Richard 2. Sister to Wenzelay the Emperour, and Daughter to the Emperour [Page 157-158] Charles 4. she first taught the English women that way of riding on horseback which is now in use; whereas formerly their custom was (tho' a very unbecoming one) to ride astride as well as men. Her husband took her death out so ill, and mourn'd so immoderately, that he altogether neglected and even abhorr'd the very house. But King Henry 5. beautify'd it with new buildings; [...]ne. and in Shene, an adjoyning little village, built a Monastery of Carthusians, which he call'd Bethlehem. In Henry 7.'s time this royal seat was quite burnt down by a lamentable fire, but like a Phoenix sprung again out of it's own ashes with greater beauty, by the assistance of the same Henry, and took the new name of Richmond from that Country whereof he had been Earl whilst a private person. This Henry 7. had scarce put a finishing hand to his new structure, but he ended his days here; by whose care, industry, counsel, and quick-sighted prudence, the kingdom of England has stood hitherto unshaken. [...]een Eli [...]h's [...], 1603. From hence it was also, that 90 years after, his Niece the most Serene Queen Elizabeth, after she had as it were glutted nature with length of days (for she was about 70 years of age,) was call'd and receiv'd by Almighty God into the sacred and heavenly Quire. A Princess exceeding her sex both in courage and conduct; who, as in her face, so in her disposition, shew'd the true image of her grandfather: she was the love of the world, and the delight of Britain. And so far was she, tho' but a woman, from coming short of the lasting and renown'd virtue of her ancestors, that if she did not exceed, she at least abundantly equall'd them. Let posterity believe this, and give their assent to so favourable a truth (for I do not corrupt venerable Truth with flatteries) that a Virgin, for 44 years together, did so manage the government, as to be belov'd by her subjects, fear'd by her enemies, and admir'd by all; a pattern, that no Age hitherto can produce the like. Her death put England under such a general grief, that it had lain in despair and desolation, without the least prospect of comfort; but that immediately upon her departure out of this life, the most Serene James, the true and undoubted heir, mark'd out by all hearts and eyes for her successor, shed forth his august beams, and possessed all with the hopes of a lasting joy. When we look upon him, we scarce can believe her dead. Tho' why should we talk of her dying, whose immortal virtues still live, and her sacred memory will ever be preserv'd in the minds of men, and the Annals of Time?
[...] far [...] Tide [...]es up the [...]ames.As far as this place the Thames receives the tide, about 60 Italian miles from the mouth. And there's no other river in Europe that I know of, where the tide comes up so many miles, to the great advantage of those that live by it. [...] goes [...] far. Whether it be, that from this place there are hardly any crookings, but 'tis carry'd eastward in a more direct channel, generally fenc'd with higher banks, and opens a wider mouth than other rivers to let in the sea, (which, as I thought long since,f by the rapid circulation of the orbs from east to west, is carry'd the same way;) I leave to the enquiry of Philosophers, to whose judgments I willingly submit in these and the like matters. However, concerning these places and this subject, take some few verses (if you can relish them) out of The wedding of Tame and Isis.
And a few verses after;
More inward, at about four miles distance from the Thames, None-such, None-such. a retiring seat of the Kings, eclipses all the neighbour buildings. It was erected by King Henry the 8th. in a very wholsome air, called before Cuddington, Cuddington. and design'd by him for his pleasure and diversion. 'Tis so magnificent, and withall so neat, as even to arrive at the highest pitch of ostentation; and one would think, that the whole art of Architecture were crowded into this single work. So many images to the life are there upon all sides of it, so many wonders of an accomplish'd workmanship, as may even vie with the remains of Roman Antiquity: so that it may lay a just claim to the name, and is able to support it; None-such being in Latin Nulla ejusmodi, or as Leland expresses it in verse,
And the house too is so surrounded with parks full of deer, delicate orchards and gardens, groves adorn'd with arbours, little garden-beds, and walks shaded with trees; thatAmoenitas cum Salubritate. Pleasure and Wholsomness seem to have made choice of this place wherein to live together. But Queen Mary exchang'd it with Henry Fitz-Alan Earl of Arundel, for other possessions; who after he had inlarg'd it with a well-furnish'd Library, and some new works, left it at his death to the Baron of Lumley, a person whose whole course of life did truly answer his character: from him, by bargain, it return'd to the Crown [h]. Near this place (for I cannot think it unworthy the mentioning) is a vein of potter's earth, famous for those little vessels (the goldsmiths use to melt their gold in) being made of it; upon which account it carries a good rate.
The small and clear river Vandal, The Vandal riv. abounding with the best trouts, rises at Cashalton, a little distance from hence, and running by Morden, washes a town upon the western bank of it, situate in a most fruitful place, call'd Merton, Merton. in Saxon Meredune, formerly famous for the death of Kenulph King of the West-Saxons, slain in the cottage of a certain harlot here (with whom he was smitten) byClyte. Prince Kinehard; and the Prince himself, presently kill'd upon the spot by the friends of Kenulph, was punish'd answerably to his treachery. Now, it shews nothing but the ruins of a monastery built by Henry 1.10 at the instance of Gilbert Viscount of Surry11, which was famous for a Parliament held there under Henry 3.
Afterwards, the Vandal is augmented by a small river from the east, which arises at Croydon, Croydon. formerly Cradiden, lying under the hills, and particularly [Page] famous for a palace of the Archbishops of Canterbury, (whose it has been now for a long time) and for coals which the inhabitants trade withal. Those that live there tell you that a Royal palace stood formerly on the west part of the town near Haling, where the rubbish [of buildings] is now and then digg d up by the husbandmen; and that the Archbishops after it was bestow'd on them by the King, transferr'd it to their own palace, nigher the river. Near which, the most Reverend father in God John Whitgift, Archbishop of Canterbury, of blessed memory, out of a pious disposition built and endow'd a beautiful Hospital for the relief of the poor, and a School for the promotion of good learning. For the torrent that the vulgar affirm to rise here sometimes,The bourn. and to presage dearth and pestilence; it seems hardly worth so much as the mentioning, tho' perhaps it may have something of truth in it. Near to this place is Beddington Beddington [i], where is a most neat and curious house, adorn'd with pleasant orchards and gardens, built by Sir Francis Carew Knight. For 'tis an ancient seat of the Carews, who are descended from Nicholas Baron Carew of Moulesford (the Carews of Devonshire are of the same family too) and have flourish'd a long time in this County; especially, since12 J. Carew marry'd the daughter and coheir of the noble Baron Hoo 13. Wibbandune, now commonly Wimbledon, Wimbledon is seated upon the other bank of the Vandal, where, (after the British war was ended, and too much happiness began to breed civil dissentions among the Saxons) Aethelbert King of Kent first rais'd a civil war against his own Countrymen.The first civil wars among the Saxons. But Ceaulin, King of the West-Saxons, luckily defeated him in this place, with great loss on Aethelbert's side; particularly the two Captains Oslan and Cneben were slain; from the latter whereof 'tis possible that the military fortification I saw here of a circular form, call'd Bensbury or Cnebensbury, might take it's name. Now, it's greatest ornament is a house, as of a stately structure, so made pleasant by it's prospect and gardens, built by Sir Thomas Cecil Kt. son of the most prudent Baron Burghley, in the year 1588. when the Spanish Armada was upon our coasts.
Two miles from hence to the south, upon the very top of a hill, is a little wood call'd at this day Woodcote, Woodcote. where are the plain remains of a small city, and several wells built of little pieces of flints: the neighbourhood talk much of it's populousness, richness, and number of it'sPatriciorum. Aldermen. This I take to be the City which Ptolemy calls Noiomagus, Antoninus Noviomagus g;Noviomagus. nor need I insist upon any other arguments for it, besides that of distance. For 'tis ten miles from London, and eighteen from Vagniacae or Maidston, as is hinted by an old Itinerary. Those therefore are very much out of the way, who have plac'd this Noviomagus either at Buckingham or Guilford. It was the chief City of the REGNI, and known to Marinus Tyrius, a very ancient Geographer, whom Ptolemy takes upon him to censure, because he had put Noviomagus in Britain in a more northerly climate than London, and in the method of his Itinerary set it more to the south.
Upon the Thames, next to the mouth of the Vandal (where is a little town call'd from it Wandlesworth 14,) stands the small village Batersey, in old Saxon Patryks-ea, and in latin Patricii insula, i.e. Patrick's Isle: and the Royal seat call'd Kennington, Kennington. whither the Kings of England us'd to retire, the discovery whereof 'tis vain to endeavour after, there appearing neither name nor rubbish to direct us. Next is Lambith Lambith. or Lomebith, that is, a dirty station or haven; formerly made famous by the death of Canutus the valiant King of England, who there breath'd out his last in the middle of his Cups. For he giving himself wholly over to eating and drinking, ordered (as Henry of Huntingdon has it) that a Royal meal should be serv'd up to his whole Court four times a day; chosing rather that dishes should be sent off his Table untoucht by those he had invited, than that other dishes should be call'd for by those that came in after uninvited. But now it is more famous for the palace of the Archbishops of Canterbury. For about the year of Christ 1183. Baldwin Archbishop of Canterbury, by an exchange with the Bishop of Rochester, got a mannour in this place, wherein he began a palace for him and his successors, and this by little and little was enlarg'd. But when the Archbishops began to have thoughts of building a small Collegiate Church here, Good God, what numbers of Appeals were packt to Rome by the Monks of Canterbury? and what thundrings, threatnings and censures were level'd by the Pope against the Archbishops? For the Monks were jealous that this might prove an encroachment upon their Privileges, and deprive them of their right to elect the Archbishop. Nor could these disturbances be quieted, till the little Church they had began, was at the instance of the Monks levell'd with the ground. Near to this is the most famous mart-town of all the County, call'd at this day the Burrough of Southwork, in Saxon Suþƿerke,South [...] i.e. a work or building to the south, situated so to the south over against London, as that it seems to be a sort of suburbs to it; but yet so large is it, and populous, that it may vie with most Cities in England, being as it were a Corporation of it self. Within the memory of our fathers it had it's own Bailifs, but in the reign of Edward 6. it was annext to the City of London, and is at this day reckon'd a branch of it. For which reason we will defer the further examination of this place, till we come to London.
Beneath this, the Thames leaves Surrey, the eastbound whereof runs down in a direct line to the south, almost by Lagham, which in the reign of Edward 1. had it's Parlamentary Barons,Barons S. John [...] Lag [...] call d S. John de Lagham, whose estate came at last to J. Leodiard by a daughter and heiress. Somewhat lower, almost in the very corner where it takes a view both of Sussex and Kent, is Sterborrow-castle, formerly the seat of the Lords de Cobham, who from this place were nam'd de Sterborrow; Sterborr [...] and descending from John de Cobham Lord of Cobham and Couling and the daughter of Hugh Nevil, flourish'd a long time together in great splendour and reputation. For Reginald in the reign of Edward 3. was made Knight of the Garter, and Admiral of the Sea-coasts from the Thames mouth Westward. But Thomas the last of them marrying Anne daughter to15 the Duke of Buckingham, had by her one only daughter Anne, marry'd to Edward Burgh, descended from the Percies and Earls of Athol. His son Thomas was created Baron Burgh by K. Henry 8. and left a son William, father to Thomas, Barons [...] rough [...] Burgh. who was a great encourager of Learning, Governour of Briel, made by Queen Elizabeth Knight of the Garter, and Lord Deputy of Ireland, where he expos'd himself to death [in defence of his country.] As to Eleanor Cobham of this family, wife to Humphrey Duke of Glocester, whose reputation was something tainted, I refer you to the English Histories.
We must now reckon up the Earls.Earls [...] Surre [...], who were [...] call'd [...] of W [...] Arms [...] Earls [...] Warr [...] William Rufus King of England first made William de Warren Governour of Surrey 16, under the honorary title of Earl; whose Arms were Checky, Or and azure. For in his Foundation-Charter of the Priory of Lewis, we read thus: I have given, &c. for the good of my master K. William, who brought me over into England, and for the good of my Lady Queen Mawd, my wife's mother, and for the good of my master K. William his son, after whose coming into England I made this Charter, and who created me Earl of Surrey, &c. To him succeeded his son17, and his grandchild by a son of the same name. [Page 161-162] But this last had only a daughter, who brought the same title first to William, King Stephen's son, and afterwards to Hamelin base son of Geoffrey Plantagenet Earl of Anjou. But the first husband dying without issue, Hamelin had by her William Earl of Surrey whose posterity taking the name of Warrens, bore the same title. This William marry'd the eldest daughter and coheir of William Marshal Earl of Pembroke widow of Hugh Bigod, and had by her John 18: and John by Alice daughter of Hugh le Earls of March in [...]nce. Brune, sister by the mother's side to K. Henry 3. had William, who dy'd before his father, and had by Joanna Vere, daughter of the Earl of Oxford, John, who was born after the death of his father, and was last Earl of this family. He was (as I learnt from his seal) Earl of Warren, Surrey, Strathern in Scotland; Lord of Bromfeld and Yale, and Count Palatine. But he dying without lawful issue in the 23d of Edward 3. his sister and heiress Alice was marry'd to Edmund Earl of Arundel, and by that marriage brought this honour into the family of the Arundels 19; from which it came at last by the Mowbrays to the Howards. For Thomas Mowbray marry'd the eldest sister and coheir of Thomas Fitz-Alan, Earl of Arundel and Surrey. In the mean time20, Richard 2. conferr'd the title of Duke of Surrey upon Thomas Holland Earl of Kent, who notwithstanding did not long enjoy that honour. For secretly endeavouring to rescue the same Richard then taken prisoner, and to restore him to his Crown, his plot unexpectedly was discover'd, and himself making his escape, was seiz'd by the town of Cirencester, and beheaded. Next, Thomas de Beaufort, who was the King's Chancellor, bore this honour, (if we may believe Thomas Walsingham.) For he tells us, that in the year 1410. The Lord Tho. Beaufort Earl of Surrey, dy'd. But let Walsingham make good his assertion; for there is no such thing appears in the King's Records; only that Thomas de Beaufort was about that time made Chancellor. 'Tis evident however from the publick Records of the Kingdom, that King Henry 6. in the 29th year of his reign, created John Moubray, son of John Duke of Norfolk, Earl of Warren and Surrey21; and at length King Richard 3. after he had villanously got possession of the Crown, in order to win the family of the Howards (descended from the Mowbrays) to his own party, created on the same day John Baron Howard Duke of Norfolk, and Thomas his son Earl of Surrey; in whose posterity this honour continu'd, and does still remain.
This County hath 140 Parish-Churches.
ADDITIONS to SƲTH-REY.
THE most considerable piece of Antiquity this County affords us, is the famous Roman way call'd Stone-street, visible in several parts of it. It goes through Darking-Church yard; as they plainly find by digging the graves; and between that place and Stansted it is discover'd upon the hills by making of ditches. Afterwards in Okeley-parish (which in winter is extreamly wet) it is very plainly trac'd. Had not the civil wars prevented, we might before this time have had a more distinct account of it: for Thomas Earl of Arundel and Surrey, had made some attempts towards the exact discovery of its remains, tracing it from Arundel through all the deep country of Sussex; but the wars coming on, hinder'd his further progress.
[...]ye.[a] To go along with our Author; the river Wye, which the Thames receives, brings in great profits to that part of the County; being made navigable by the industry (among others) of that worthy Knight Sir Richard Weston late of Sutton-place; to whom the whole Shire is oblig'd as for this, so for several other improvements, particularly Clover and Saintfoine.
[...]eford or [...]dford.[b] This river passes by Guildford, (famous heretofore for clothing and Clothiers) which has given the Church of England since the Reformation two famous Prelates, George and Robert Abbot: the one Archbishop of Canterbury, who founded here a very fine Hospital, and lies bury'd in Trinity-Church; the other, that learned Bishop of Salisbury, his brother. They were both sons of a Clothier; and had a brother Sir Maurice Abbot, who was Lord Mayor of London, at the same time when they were Bishops. Upon which trade this observation has been made, That several of the most eminent families among the Nobility in this nation have had their rise from it. Here is a curious Free-school founded by King Edward 6; to which (as also to Baliol-College in Oxford) one Hammond was a great Benefactor. This place has given the title of Countess to Elizabeth Viscountess of Keynelmeaky in Ireland, and that of Earl to John Maitland, Duke and Earl of Lauderdale.
Near Guildford, upon the river Wye, is the Friery, the seat of Daniel Colwall Esquire, adjoyning to which is a delightful Park.
[...]ghton.Something nearer the Thames is Staughton, the seat of a family of that name, whose Pedigree is probably as ancient as any in this County. But it is now at last out of that line, by the death of the late Sir Lawrence Staughton, Baronet, a young Gentleman of great hopes.
About 2 miles eastward from Guildford is Clandon-place, Clandon. the seat of the honourable Sir Richard Onslow Baronet, descended from Onslow of Onslow-hall in Shropshire, an ancient Gentleman's family. Their first settlement in this County was at Knowle in Crandley; thence they removed to Clandon-place, being pleasantly situate on the edge of Clandon downe; from whence is a goodly prospect into ten several Counties. 'Tis well shaded with wood, and supply'd with good water, and is daily improv'd by the present possessor.
Not far from hence is Pirford, Pirford. situate on the river Wye, enclos'd with a pleasant Park well wooded, to which belongs large Royalties, Fish-ponds, and a delightful Decoy; now the seat of Denzell Onslow Esq the youngest son of Sir Richard Onslow late of Clandon-place.
[c] About the entring of this river into the Thames, is Otelands, Otelands. which was (as our Author observes) a royal village, or a retiring place for the Kings; but now is so decay'd, that it hardly bears the figure of a good Farmhouse; being demolish'd in the late Civil Wars.
Not far from hence, upon the Thames, is Walton Aubr. MS.,Walton. in which Parish is a great Camp of about 12 Acres, single work, and oblong. There is a road lies thro' it, and 'tis not improbable that Walton takes its name from this remarkable Vallum.
[d] Our next river is Mole; at some distance from which, to the south, lies Okeley, Okeley. where is a certain custom observ'd time out of mind, of planting Rose-trees upon the graves, especially of the young men and maids, who have lost their lovers; so that this Churchyard is now full of them. 'Tis the more remarkable, because we may observe it anciently us'd both among the Greeks and Romans; who were so very religious in it, that we find it often annex'd as a Codicil to their Wills, (as appears by an old Inscription at Ravenna, and another at Milan,) by which they order'd Roses to be yearly strew'd and planted upon their graves. Hence that ofL. 1. Eleg. 2. Propertius, Et tenerâ poneret ossa rosâ. And old Anacreon speaking of it, says, that it does [...], protect the dead.
Upon the edge of Sussex is Okewood, Okewood. (all that part being formerly but one continu'd wood of Oaks,) where stands a desolate Chapel of Ease to five large [Page 163-164] Parishes, three in Surrey, and two in Sussex, built by one Edward de la Hale, as appears by a monument of the pious Donor, who dy'd 1431. and lies here buried. The revenues that of right belong to it are above 200 l. per An. out of which there is not allowed above 20 Nobles to a man who now and then reads Prayers to them. It is so much the more deplorable, because the alienation long since appears to have been made through a mistake; for 'twas done in Q. Elizabeth's time by virtue of an Inquisition unjustly taken, upon pretence of its being a Chantry for the maintenance of a Mass priest to pray for the soul of the Founder. Whereas, really, it was built and endow'd for no other use but a Chapel of Ease only, to instruct the people of the adjoyning Parishes, at too great a distance from their own Parish-Churches. Near this place are certain Pitts, out of which Jett has been sometimes digg'd.
But to return towards the north; at the head of a river which runs into the Wye near Guildford, is Abinger; Abinger. near the Church yard whereof is a heap or mount cast up, which some imagine to have been a small fortress rais'd by the Danes or Saxons. But to cure that mistake, it's plain enough 'twas done by neither; but by the neighbouring people, whom the high grounds on which they live put under a necessity of contriving a pond to water their cattel; and this rubbish was thrown out of that place.
The foremention'd river rising out of a hill hereabouts, runs to Albury, Albury. which (when but a mean structure) was yet the delight of that excellent person Thomas Earl of Arundel, a great lover of Antiquities; who purchasing this place of the Randylls, made it his darling. Henry his grandson, Duke of Norfolk, had no less affection for it: he began there a magnificent Pile, cut a Canal, planted spacious Gardens and Vineyards, adorn'd with Fountains, Grots, &c. But what is above all singular and remarkable, is, an Hypogaeum or Perforation made through a mighty hill, and large enough at one end for a coach to pass, being about a furlong or more in length, and so leads o'er into an agreeable and pleasant valley. It was at first intended for a way up to the house, but a rock at the south-end hinder'd that design. This noble seat is enclos'd with a park, and much improv'd by the honourable Heneage Finch Esq late Sollicitor-General, who having purchas'd it of the father of the present Duke of Norfolk, is daily adding to its beauty.
Nor is this place less celebrated for that famous Mathematician William Oughtred, who liv'd and dy'd Rector of this Parish.
At a little distance from hence is St. Martha's Chapel, St. Martha's Chapel. seated conspicuously on a copp'd mountain. This seems to have been thrown up by some fiery Eruption or Vulcano, as several other such Elevations towards the edge of Sussex confirm.
Beneath this hill is Chilworth, the seat of Morgan Randyl Esq owner of the most considerable Powder-works (brought first into England by George Evelyn Esq) and best Hop gardens in England.
Not far off is Tower-hill, the seat of Edward Bray Esq of a very ancient and honourable family.
[e] Returning to the Mole, we see Beechworth, Beechworth the feat (as our Author observes) of the Browns. But now that name, after a long series of Knights, is at last extinguish'd in a daughter. 'Tis at the foot of the Castle here, that the river Mole, bending to the precipice of Box-hill, is swallow'd up.
Between Beechworth and Darking stands Deepden, Deepden. the situation whereof is somewhat surprising, by reason of the risings and uniform acclivities about it; which naturally resemble a Roman Amphitheatre, or rather indeed a Theatre: it is open at the north-end, and is of an oval form. Now it is most ingeniously cast, and improv'd into gardens, vineyards, and other plantations, both on the Area below, and sides of the environing hills: with frequent grotts here and there beneath the terraces, leading to the top; from whence one has a fair prospect of that part of Surrey, and of Sussex, as far as the South-downs, for near 30 miles out-right. The honourable Charles Howard, Uncle to the present Duke of Norfolk, and Lord of half the mannour of Darking, is solely entitl'd to this ingenious contrivance.
Going along Holmesdale (which extends it self to the foot of that ledge of Mountains which stretch and link themselves from the utmost promontory of Kent to the Lands end,) we have on the right hand White-down, White-down. where is a vast Delf of chalk, which in summer time they carry with great labour as far as the middle of Sussex; as they bring of the same material from the opposite hills by the sea-coast of that County: and these two being mingl'd together, are burnt into lime for the enriching of their grounds. Here are likewise dug up cockle-shells, and other Lusus naturae, with pyrites, bedded an incredible depth within the bowels of the mountains, upon which many Yew-trees grow spontaneously, tho' of late they are much diminish'd, and their places taken up with corn.
Not far from the bottom of this hill, stands an ancient seat of the Evelyns of Wotton, Wotton. among several streams gliding thro' the meadows, adorn'd with gentle risings, and woods which as it were encompass it. And these, together with the gardens, fountains, and other hortulane ornaments, have given it a place and name amongst the most agreeable seats. It is at present (with many fair Lordships about it) the possession of that worthy and hospitable Gentleman, George Evelyn Esq who having serv'd in many Parliaments from 1641. is perhaps the most ancient member thereof now living.
In opening the ground of the Church-yard of Wotton, to enlarge a Vault belonging to Mr. Evelyn's family, they met with a skeleton which was 9 foot and 3 inches long, as the worthy Mr. John Evelyn had it attested by an ancient and understanding man then present and still living, (who accurately measur'd it, and mark'd the length on a pole,) with other workmen, who affirm the same. They found it lying in full length between two boards of the coffin; and so measur'd it before they had discompos'd the bones. But trying to take it out, it fell all to pieces; for which reason they flung it amongst the rest of the rubbish, after they had separately measur'd several of the more solid bones.
Hereabouts is a thing remarkable, tho' but little taken notice of; I mean, that goodly prospect from the top of Lith-hill, which from Wotton rises almost insensibly for 2 or 3 miles south; but then has a declivity almost as far as Horsham in Sussex, 8 miles distant. From hence it is, one may see, in a clear day, the goodly Vale and consequently the whole County of Sussex, as far as the South-downs, and even beyond them to the sea; the entire County of Surrey, part of Hamshire, Barkshire, Oxfordshire, Buckinghamshire, and Hartfordshire; as also of Middlesex, Kent, and Essex: and farther yet (as is believ'd) into Wiltshire, &c. could one well distinguish 'em without the aid of a Telescope. The whole circumference cannot be less than 200 miles, far exceeding that of the Keep at Windsor, over which (as also over the City of London 25 miles distant) one sees as far as the eye, unarm'd with the glass, is able to distinguish land from sky. The like, I think, is not to be found in any part of England, or perhaps Europe besides: and the reason why it is not more observ'd, is, partly its lying quite out of any road, and partly its rising so gently, and making so little show till one is got to the very top of it: from the side thereof a great part of the brow is slidden down into the grounds below, caus'd by a delf of stones dug out of the sides of the mountain; and the bare places (from whence the earth is parted) being of a reddish colour, plainly appear above 40 miles off.
But here we must not forget Darking, Darking. memorable for a very large Camp in that Parish, near Homebury-hill, and not far from the road between Darking and Arundel. It is double trench'd and deep, containing by estimation about 10 acres at least.
[f] Where the Mole comes from under ground,Mole ri [...] it spreads it self so very wide, as to require a bridge of a great many arches and a stately fabrick, partly of stone, and tyles laid flat upon one another.
[g] Not far from the place where this river enters the Thames, is Kingston, Kingston Aubr Monum. Britan. [...] east from which, upon a gravelly hill near the road, was a burying-place of the Romans. Here are often found Urns and pieces of Urns, which lye about two foot deep. One particularly was discover'd about 1670. of a kind of amber-colour, fill'd up half way with black ashes, and at the bottom something like [Page]
[Page] [Page 165-166] coarse hair, as if it had been laid there before.
At a little distance from the Thames, we see Combe-Nevil, Combe-Nevil. a seat of the Harveys, where have been found Medals and Coins of several of the Roman Emperors, especially of Dioclesian, the Maximinians, Maximus, Constantine the Great, &c.
[h] Not far from whence is None-such, None-such. so much magnify'd by our Author for it's curious structure; but now there's nothing of all this to be seen, scarce one stone being left upon another; which havock is owing to the late Civil Wars.
[i] To the north-east is Beddington, [...]eddington where not only the Orchards and Gardens in general (as our Author has observ'd,) but particularly its Orange-trees, deserve our mention. They have now been growing there more than a hundred years, and are planted in the open ground, under a moveable Covert during the winter-months. They were the first that were brought into England by a Knight of that noble family; who deserves no less commendation than Lucullus met with for bringing cherry and filbert-trees out of Pontus into Italy: for which we find him celebrated by Pliny and others.
Next is Ashsted, [...]sh [...]ted. where the honourable Sir Robert Howard (brother to the Earl of Barkshire) has enclosed a fair new house within a park, laid out and planted the fields, pastures, and arables about it in such order and with so great improvements, as to make it vye with the most considerable dry seats in this County. There was near it, formerly, a mean deca [...]'d farm-house; yet for the wholsome air breathing from the hills, it was often resorted to by Thomas Earl of Arundel and Surrey, of whose grandson (father of the present Duke of Norfolk) Sir Robert purchas'd it.
At some distance from hence, is Woodcote, [...]oo [...]cote. a pleasant seat among groves, much adorn'd by the widow Evelyn lately deceas'd; to which belong those medicinal Wells, [...]ps [...]m- [...]s. that rise in the adjoyning Common. They are tinctur'd with Allom, and of late years are in so much repute, as to occasion a very great increase of buildings in the parish of Epsom for the reception and entertainment of such as resort hither for the sake of the Spaws, with the diversion of the Downs hard by.
Near the Thames, and south of London, lyes Dullwich, [...]ullwich. where William Allen (sometime a famous Comedian) in King James 1.'s time erected and endow'd a pretty College and a fair Chapel for 6 poor men, and as many poor women; with a school for the education of 12 children. Here are also Medicinal Springs call'd Sidnam-wells, as likewise there are at Streeteham, both of them frequented in their proper seasons.
Northward from hence is South-wark, [...]uthwark. where is one thing of note; the Grant of S. Mary Overies Church to the Church-wardens and their Successors for ever, together with the Tithes, to provide two Chaplains at their pleasure, who are neither presented nor endowed; and thus it differs from all other Churches in England.
Here lye bury'd the learned Bishop Andrews, and our famous English Poet Gower. A very ample and ancient palace with fair gardens, belonging to the Bishops of Winchester, is now converted into Tenements.
And here in the close, we must not omit the mention of one who was a general Benefactor to the whole County. His name was Smith, once a Silver-smith in London, but did not follow that trade long. He afterwards went a begging for many years, and was commonly call'd Dog-Smith, because he had a Dog always follow'd him. When he dy'd, he left a very great Estate in the hands of Trustees upon a general account of Charity, and more particularly for Surrey. After they had made a considerable improvement of the estate, and purchas'd several Farms, they settl'd 50 l. per An. or thereabouts upon every market-town in Surrey, or gave 1000 l. in money. Upon every Parish, except one or two, they settl'd a yearly revenue; upon some 6 l. others 8. and upon the rest more or less, as they thought convenient. But this Charity was not limited to Surrey, but left to the Trustees to extend to other places of the kingdom, as they found occasion; and so the revenue is greater out of this County than what is paid in it.
Continuation of the EARLS.
From that Thomas, whom Richard 3. made Earl of Surrey, there were three of the same name and family who successively enjoy'd this Honour; the last whereof dying 1646. was succeeded by Henry his son, and Henry by his son Thomas; from whom it went to Henry his brother.
Plants growing wild in Surrey.
Aria Theophrasti Ger. See the Synonymes in Somersetshire. The white Beame tree, or mountain Service tree. About Croyden. Park. 1421. Common in the Copses near the Downs.
Acorus verus sive Calamus Officinarum Park. Verus, sive Calamus aromaticus Officinarum C. B. Verus, Officinis falsò Calamus Ger. Calamus aromaticus vulgaris, multis Acorum J. B. The sweet smelling Flag or Calamus. Found by Dr. Brown of Magdalen Coll. Oxon. about Hedley in this County.
Buxus arbor. The Box tree. On Box hill near Darking thence denominated, plentifully.
Dentaria major Matthiolo Ger. Orobanche radice dentata major C. B. radice dentata, seu Dentaria major Matthiolo Park. Anblatum Cordi sive Aphyllon J. B. The greater Toothwort. Thomas Willisell shew'd it me in a shady lane not far from Darking in this County growing plentifully.
Rapunculus corniculatus montanus. See the Synonymes in Hampshire Cat. Horned mountain Rampion with a round head of flowers. On many places of the Downs.
Vicia Lathyroides nostras, seu Lathyrus Viciaeformis. Chichling Vetch. Found by Tho. Willisell in Peckham field on the back of Southwark, in a squalid watery place.
SƲSSEX.
UNDER Suth-rey lies Suth-sex towards the south, extending it self into a great length; in ancient times the seat of the Regni, and call'd in Saxon Suð-sex, now Sussex, as much as to say, the Country of the South-Saxons. A word compounded of it's Southerly situation, and of the Saxons, who in the Heptarchy, plac'd here the second kingdom. It lies all on the south-side, upon the British Ocean, with a streight shore, as it were, more in length than breadth; but has but few Ports, the sea being very dangerous by reason of it's Shelves and Sands, which make it rough; and the shore is full of Rocks1. The sea-coast of this country has very high green hills, call'd the Downs, Downs. which consisting of a fat chalky soil, are upon that account very fruitful. The middle-part being checquer'd with meadows, pastures, corn-fields, and groves, makes a very fine show. The hithermost and northern-side, is shaded most pleasantly with woods, as anciently the whole Country was [a], which made it unpassable. For thea Wood Andradswald, in British Coid Andred, Anderida sylva. so nam'd from Anderida the next adjoyning city, took up in this quarter 120 miles in length, and 30 in breadth; memorable for the death of Sigebert a King of the West-Saxons; who being depos'd,b was here [Page 167-168] stabb'd to death by a Swine-herd. It has many little rivers; but those that come from the north-side of the County, presently bend their course to the sea, and are therefore unable to carry vessels of burden. It is full of Iron-mines everywhere;Iron. for the casting of which, there are Furnaces up and down the Country; and abundance of wood is yearly spent; many streams are drawn into one chanel, and a great deal of meadow-ground is turned into Ponds and Pools, for the driving of Mills by theSuo impetu. flashes; which beating with hammers upon the iron, fill the neighbourhood round about, night and day, with their noise. But the iron here wrought is not everywhere of the same goodness, yet generally more brittle than the Spanish; whether it be from it's nature, or tincture and temper. Nevertheless, the Proprietors of the mines, by casting of Cannon and other things, get a great deal of money. But whether the nation is any ways advantag'd by them, is a doubt the next age will be better able to resolve. Neither doth this County want Glass-houses; Glass. but the glass here made (by reason of the matter or making, I know not which) is not so clear and transparent; and therefore only us'd by the ordinary sort of people [b].
This whole County, as to it's Civil partition, is divided into 6 parts, which by a peculiar term they call Rapes, that is, of Chichester, Arundell, Brembre, Lewes, Pevensey, and Hastings: every one of which, besides their Hundreds, has a Castle, River, and Forest of it's own. Butc forasmuch as I have little knowledge of the limits within which they are bounded, I design to take my way along the shore, from west to east: for the inner parts scatter'd here and there with villages, have scarce any thing worth mentioning. In the very confines of Hamshire and this County stands Bosenham, Boseham. commonly call'd Boseham, environ'd round about with woods and the sea together; where, as Bede saith, Dicul a Scotch Monk had a very small Cell, and 5 or 6 Brothers, living poorly, and serving God: which was a long time after converted into a private retreat for K. Harold. From which place as he once in a little Pinnace made to sea for his recreation, he was by a sudden turn of the wind driven upon the coast of France, and there detain'd till he had by oath assur'd the Kingdom of England unto William of Normandy after the death of K. Edw. the Confessor; by which means he presently drew upon himself his own ruin, and the kingdom's overthrow. But with what a subtle double meaning that cunning catcher of syllables,Earl Godwin's double meaning. Godwin Earl of Kent, this Harold's Father, got this place, and deluded the Archbishop by captious wrestings of letters, Walter Mapes, who liv'd not many years after, shall in his own very words inform you, out of his book de Nugis Curialium. This Boseham underneath Chichester (says he) Godwin saw, and had a mind to; and being accompanied with a great train of Lords, comes smiling and jesting to the Archbishop of Canterbury, whose town it then was; My Lord, says he, give me Alluding perhaps to Basium, a Kiss, in times past us'd in doing homage. Boseam. The Archbishop wondring what he demanded by that question, I give you, says he, Boseam. He presently, with his company of Knights and Soldiers, fell down (as he had before design'd) at his feet, and kissing them, with a world of thanks, retires to Boseham, and by force of arms kept possession as Lord of it; and having his followers as Witnesses to back him, gave the Archbishop a great many commendations as the Donor, in the King's presence, and so held it peaceably. Afterwards, as we read in Testa de Nevil, (which was an Inquisition of lands made in K. John's time) King William who afterwards conquer'd England, gave this to William Fitz-Aucher, and his heirs in fee-farm, paying out of it yearly into the Exchequer 40 pounds of silver d try'd and weigh'd, and afterwards William Marshall held it as his inheritance.
Chichester. Chichester, in British Caercei, in Saxon Cissanceaster, in Latin Cicestria, stands in a Plain farther inwards, upon the same arm of the sea with Boseham, a pretty large city, and wall'd about; built by Cissa the Saxon, the second King of this Province; taking also it's name from him. For Cissan-ceaster is nothing else but the City of Cissa, whose father Aella was the first Saxon that here erected a kingdom. Yet before the Norman conquest it was of little reputation, noted only for St. Peter's Monastery, and a little Nunnery. But in the reign of William 1. (as appears by Domesday book) there were in it 100 Hagae, and it was in the hands of Earl Roger De [...] Gom [...]rice, i.e. of Montgomery.; and there are in the said place 60 houses more than there were before: It paid 15 pound to the King, and 10 to the Earl. Afterwards, when in the reign of the said William 1. it was ordain'd, that the Bishops Sees should be translated out of little towns to places of greater note and resort, this city being honour'd with the Bishop's residence (which was before at Selsey) began to flourish. Not many years after, Bishop Ralph built there a Cathedral Church, which (before it was fully finish'd) was by a casual fire suddenly burnt down. Notwithstanding, by his endeavours, and K. Hen. 1.'s liberality, it was raised up again; and now, besides the Bishop, has a Dean, a Chaunter, a Chancellor, a Treasurer, 2 Archdeacons, and 30 Prebendaries. At the same time the city began to flourish; and had certainly been much frequented and very rich, had not the haven been a little too far off, and less commodious; which nevertheless the citizens are about making more convenient by digging a new canal. It is wall'd about in a circular form, and is wash'd on every side, except the north, by thee little river Lavant, having 4 gates opening to the 4 quarters of the world, from whence the streets lead directly, and run cross in the middle; where the market is kept, and where Bishop Robert Read built a fine stone Piazza. As for the castle, which stood not far from the north gate, it was anciently the seat of the Earls of Arundel, who from hence wrote themselves Earls of Chichester;Earls of Chich [...] but was afterwards converted to a Convent of Franciscans. All that space that lies between the west and south gates, is taken up with the Cathedral Church, Bishop's palace, andf the Dean and Prebendaries houses: which, about K. Rich. 1.'s time, were again burnt down; and Seffrid, 2d. Bishop of that name, re-edify'd themg. The Church it self, indeed, is not great, but neat, and has a very high stone spire; and on part of the south-side of the Church, the history of it's foundation is curiously painted, as also the pictures of the Kings of England; on the other part are the pictures of all the Bishops as well of Selsey as of Chichester; all at the charge of Bishop Robert Shirburne, who beautify'd this Church very much, and has his Motto set up everywhere Credite operibus, and Dilexi decorem domus tuae, Domine 2. But that great tower which stands near the west-side of the Church, was built by R. Riman, as 'tis reported (upon his being prohibited the building a Castle at Aplederham hard by, where he liv'd) with those very stones he had beforehand provided for the Castle3 [c].
Selsey before mention'd, in Saxon Seals-ey,Selsey. that is, as Bede interprets it, the Isle of Sea-Calves, (which we in our language call Seales, Seales. Here [...] the be [...] Cock [...]es a creature that always makes to islands and shores to bring forth it's young4) stands a little lower. A place (as Bede says) compass'd round about with the sea, unless on the west-side, where it has an entry into it of about Ja [...]s fun [...]ae. a stones throw over. It contain'd 87 families, when Edinwalch K. of this Province gave it to Wilfrid Bishop of York, being then in exile; who first preach'd the Gospel here, and, as he writes,Slaves. not only sav'd from the bondage of the Devil 250 bondmen by baptism, but also by giving freedom deliver'd them from slavery under man. Afterwards King Cedwalla, who conquer'd Edilwalch, founded here a Monastery, and honour'd it with an Episcopal See, which by Stigand, the 22d. Bishop, was translated to [Page 169-170] Chichester, where it now flourishes, and owns Cedwalla for it's Founder. In this Isle there are some obscure remains of that ancient little city, in which those Bishops resided, cover'd at high water, but plainly visible at low water.
Beyond Selsey, the shore breaks, and makes way for a river that runs down out of St. Leonard's Forest, by Amberley, where William Read Bishop of Chichester, in the reign of Edw. 3. built a castle for his successors; and then by Arundel, seated on the side of a hill, a place more perhaps talk'd of than it deserves [d]; nor is it indeed very ancient, for I have not so much as read it's name before K. Alfred's time, who gave it in his Will to Athelm his brother's son. Unless I should believe it corruptly call'd Portus Adurni, by a transposition of letters, for Portus Arundi. The etymology of this name is neither to be fetch'd from Bevosius's Romantick horse, nor from Charudum a promontory in Denmark, as Goropius Becanus dream'd; but from a vale lying along the River Arun; in case Arun be the name of the river, as some have told us, who upon that account nam'd it Aruntina vallis. But all it's fame is owing to the Castle, which flourish'd under the Saxon Government, and was, as we read, presently after the coming in of the Normans, repair'd by Roger Montgomery, thereupon stil'd Earl of Arundel. For, it is by it's situation contriv'd large, and well strengthen'd with works. But his son Robert Belesme, who succeeded his brother Hugh, was outlaw'd by K. Hen. 1. and lost that and all his other honours. For breaking into a perfidious Rebellion against him, he chose this castle for the seat of war, and strongly fortify'd it; but had no better success than what is generally the issue of Treason: for the King's forces surrounding it, at length took it. Upon this Robert's outlawry and banishment, the King gave the castle, and the rest of his estate, to Adeliza daughter of Godfrey (sirnam'd [...]ong [...]rd. Barbatus, of Lovaine, Duke of Lorrain and Brabant) his second Queen, for her Dower. In whose commendation ah certain English-man wrote these verses, ingenious enough for that unlearned age.
She, after the King's death, match'd with William [...]e Al [...]io, or as [...]rs, de [...]ineto, [...] de Al [...] [...]aco. [...] Daw [...] D'aubeney, who taking part with Maud the Empress against King Stephen, and defending this Castle against him; was in recompence for his good services, by the said Maud [...]nglo [...] Domi [...] Lady of the English (for that was the title she us'd,) created Earl of Arundel. And her son King Henry 2. gave the same William the whole Rape of Arundel, to hold of him by the service of 84 Knights fees and an half: and to his son William King Richard 1. granted in some such words as these, Arundel Castle, Earls of Arundel and Sussex. together with the whole honour of Arundel, and the third penny of the Pleas out of Sussex, whereof he is Earl. And when, after the fourth Earl of this Sirname, the issue male failed,See the Earls of Sussex. one of the sisters and heirs of Hugh the fourth Earl, was marry'd to John Fitz-Alan Lord of Clun, whose great grandson Richard,Chartae Antiquae 10. m. 29. upon account of his being seized of the Castle, Honour and Lordships of Arundel in his own demesn as of Fee, in regard of this his possession of the same Castle, Honour and Lordships, and without any other consideration, or creation to be an Earl, was Earl of Arundel, Parl. 11. H. 6. and the Name, State and Honour of the Earl of Arundel, &c. peaceably enjoy'd, as appears by a definitive Judgment in Parliament in favour of John Fitz-Alan challenging the Castle and Title of Arundel5, against John Mowbray, Duke of Norfolk, the right heir by his mother in the nearest degree. From whence we gather, That the Name, State, and Dignity of an Earl was annex'd to the Castle, Honour and Lordship of Arundel, as may be seen in the Parliament-Rolls, An. 27 Hen. 6. out of which I have copy'd these notes word for word. Of these Fitz-Alans 6, the 11th liv'd in our time, and dying without issue male, was succeeded by Philip Howard his grandson by his daughter, who not being able to digest wrongs and hard measure (put upon him by the cunning tricks of some invidious persons) fell into the snare they had laid for him, and being brought into the utmost danger of his life, dy'd. But his son Thomas, a most honourable young Gentleman, ennobled with a fervent desire and pursuit after virtue and glory, worthy his great birth, and of an affable obliging temper, was restor'd by King James, and had all his father's honours return'd him by Act of Parliament.
Except the Castle and it's Earls, Arundel hath nothing memorable; for the College that there flourish'd, and had the Earls for it's founders, (it's revenues being alienated) now falls to decay. Nevertheless there are some monuments of the Earls in the Church; amongst the rest one of Alabaster, very fair and noble, in which (in the middle of the Quire) lie Earl Thomas, and Beatrix his Wife, 2d Daughter of John King of Portugal. Neither must I pass by this Inscription very beautifully gilt, set up here, to the honour of Henry Fitz-Alan the last Earl of this Line; since some possibly may be pleas'd with it.
VIRTUTI ET HONORI SACRUM.
MAGNANIMUS HEROS, CUJUS HIC CERNITUR EFFIGIES, CUJUSQUE HIC SUBTER SITA SUNT OSSA, HUJUS TERRITORII COMES FUIT: SUI GENERIS AB ALANI FILIO COGNOMINATUS, A MALATRAVERSO, CLUNENSI, ET OSWALDESTRENSI HONORIBUS EXIMIIS DOMINUS INSUPER AC BARO NUNCUPATUS: GARTERIANI ORDINIS EQUESTRIS SANE NOBILISSIMI SODALIS DUM VIXIT, ANTIQUISSIMUS: ARUNDELIAE COMITIS GUILIELMI FILIUS UNICUS ET SUCCESSOR, OMNIUMQUE VIRTUTUM PARTICEPS: QUI HENRICO VIII. EDWARDO VI. MARIAE ET ELIZABETHAE ANGLIAE REGIBUS, A SECRETIS CONSILIIS, VILLAE QUOQUE CALESIAE PRAEFECTURAM GESSIT, ET CUM HENRICUS REX BOLONIAM IN MORINIS OBSIDIONE CINXERAT, EXERCITUS SUI MARESCALLUS PRIMARIUS, DEINDE REGIS FUIT CAMERARIUS: EJUSQUE FILIO EDWARDO DUM CORONARETUR MARESCALLI REGNI [Page 171-172] OFFICIUM GEREBAT: EIQUE SICUT ANTEA PATRI CAMERARIUS FACTUS. REGNANTE VERO MARIA REGINA CORONATIONIS SOLENNI TEMPORE SUMMUS CONSTITUITUR CONSTABULARIUS, DOMUSQUE REGIAE POSTMODUM PRAEFECTUS, AC CONSILII PRAESES, SICUT ET ELIZABETHAE REGINAE, CUJUS SIMILITER HOSPITII SENESCALLUS FUIT.
ITA VIR ISTE GENERE CLARUS, PUBLICIS BENE FUNCTIS MAGISTRATIBUS CLARIOR, DOMI AC FORIS CLARISSIMUS, HONORE FLORENS, LABORE FRACTUS, AETATE CONFECTUS, POSTQUAM AETATIS SUAE ANNUM LXVIII. ATTIGISSET, LONDINI XXV. DIE FEBRUARII, ANNO NOSTRAE SALUTIS A CHRISTO MDLXXIX. PIE ET SUAVITER IN DOMINO OBDORMIVIT.
JOANNES LUMLEY, BARO DE LUMLEY, GENER PIENTISSIMUS, SUPREMAE VOLUNTATIS SUAE VINDEX, SOCERO SUAVISSIMO, ET PATRONO OPTIMO MAGNIFICENTISSIME FUNERATO, NON MEMORIAE, QUAM IMMORTALEM SIBI MULTIFARIIS VIRTUTIBUS COMPARAVIT, SED CORPORIS MORTALIS ERGO, IN SPEM FELICIS RESURRECTIONIS RECONDITI: HANC ILLI EX PROPRIIS ARMATURIS STATUAM EQUESTREM PRO MUNERE EXTREMO UBERIBUS CUM LACHRYMIS DEVOTISSIME CONSECRAVIT.
That is,
Sacred to Virtue and Honour.
The Valiant Heroe, whose Effigies you here see, and whose Bones are buried underneath, was Earl of these parts: he had his Sirname by being the son of Alan; and moreover took the honourable titles of Lord and Baron from Maltravers, Clun, and Oswaldestre: he was Knight of the Garter, and liv'd to be the Senior of that Noble Order: only Son to William Earl of Arundel, and heir both of his Estate and Virtues. He was Privy Counsellor to Henry 8. Edward 6. Queen Mary, and Queen Elizabeth, Kings [and Queens] of England; Governour of Calais; and when Bologne (a town of the old Morini) was besieg'd by that King Henry, was Marshal of the Army. He was afterwards Lord Chamberlain to the said King, and at the Coronation of his son Edward, exercis'd the Office of Marshal of England; to which King he was Lord Chamberlain, as he had been to his Father. Upon Queen Mary's coming to the Crown, he was made High-Constable of England for the Coronation, afterwards Steward of her Houshold, and President of the Council, which honour he had under Queen Elizabeth, to whom he was likewise Steward of the Houshold.
Thus this person, noble by birth, by the honourable discharge of Offices more noble, and most of all so by his great Exploits at home and abroad; with his honour untainted, his body broken and worn out with age, in the 68. year of his life dy'd in the Lord devoutly and comfortably, at London, on the 25. of February, in the year of our Lord 1579.
John Lumley Baron of Lumley, his most dutiful and disconsolate son in Law, and Executor, with the utmost respect put up this Statue with his own Armour (after he had been buried in great pomp) for the kindest of Fathers-in-Law and the best of Patrons, as the last Office he was able to pay him: not to preserve his memory, which his many Virtues had made immortal; but his body, committed to the ground in hopes of a joyful Resurrection.
As for the River, which runs by, and has its Spring in the Northern parts of this County, it is enlarg'd by the influx of many Rivulets on both sides; the most noted of which washes Cowdrey, a noble seat of Viscount Montacute 7, and has on it's other side Midherst 8, proud of its Lords the Bohuns, who bear for their Arms A Cross Azure in a Field Or; and from Ingelricus de Bohun under K. Hen. 1. flourish'd till Hen. 7's days, who gave in marriage the Daughter and heir of John Bohun to Sir David Owen Knight, the natural Son of Owen Theodore [or Tudor,] with a large inheritance.Bohuns of M [...]d [...]. Their Arms Spigur [...]el, what a signifies. These Bohuns were (to note by the by the antiquity of a word now grown out of use) for some time the Kings Spigurnels by inheritance, that is the Sealers of his Writs; which Office, together with the Serjeanty of the King's Chapel, was resigned to K. Edw. 1. by John de Bohun the Son of Franco, as we read in an old Charter made concerning that very matter.
Next we have a sight of Pettworth, Pettw [...]th. which William D'Aubeney Earl of Arundel gave, together with a ‖ large estate, to Josceline of Lovain (a Brabander, Queen Adeliza's brother, a younger son of Godfrey Duke of Brabant, descended from the stock of Charlemain) upon his marriage with Agnes the only daughter and heir of the Percies.The Percies. Since which time the posterity of that Josceline (having assumed the name of Percy, as we shall tell you elsewhere) have held it.See Northumberland in the end. A family certainly very ancient and noble, which derive their descent from Charlemain more directly, and with a series of Ancestors much less interrupted, than either the Dukes of Lorrain or Guise, who so highly value themselves upon that account. This Josceline, as I have seen in a donation of his, us'd this Title: Josceline of Lovain, Brother of Queen Adeliza, Castellane of Arundel.
As the shore gives back from the mouth of Arun 9, near Tering, lies Offingtons, The fa [...] of the W [...] the seat of William West Baron De la-ware. This of the Wests is a noble and ancient family, whose estate being much enlarg'd by matching with the heirs of Cantelupe of Hempston, and of Fitz-Reginald Fitz-Herbert, was adorn'd also with the title of Baron by the heir general of the Lord De-la-ware. Barons de [...] Ware. Hard by is a sort compass'd about with a bank rudely cast up, where the inhabitants believe that Caesar intrench'd and sortify'd his Camp. But Cissbury Cissbury. the name of the place, plainly shews it was the work of Cissa; who was the second King of this Kingdom, of the Saxon race, succeeding Aella his father; and with his brother Cimen and no small body of Saxons, landed on this coast at Cimen shore, Cime [...]-shore. so call'd of the said Cimen: a place which now hath lost it's name; but that it was near Wittering, King Cedwalla's Charter of Donation made to the Church of Selsey, is a very convincing proof. There is another fort likewise to be seen two miles from Cissbury, which they commonly call Chenkbury.
Thence, near the sea, lies Broodwater, the Barony of the Lords de Camois, C [...]m [...]s who flourish'd here from the time of King Edward 1. tillHe [...] time. our Grandfathers remembrance, when by female heirs the estate fell to the Lewkenors and Radmilds. Of this family John Camois son of Lord Ralph Camois (by a president not to be parallel'd in that, nor our own age) out of his own free will (I speak from the Parliament Rolls themselves) gave and demised his own wife Margaret, daughter and heir of John de Gaidesden,A W [...]e given [...] grant [...] [...] another. Pa [...]l. [...]. Edw. [...]. to Sir William Painel Knight; and to the same [William] voluntarily gave, granted, released, and quit claimed all the goods and chattels which she hath, or otherwise hereafter might have: and also whatsoever was in his hands of the aforesaid Margaret's goods and chattels with their appurtenances. So that neither he himself, nor any man else in his name, might claim or challenge any interest, nor ought for ever, in the aforesaid Margaret from henceforth, or in the goods or chattels of the said Margaret. Which is as much as what the Ancients said in one word, Ut omnia sua secum haberet, that she should have away with her all that was hers. By vertue of which grant, when she demanded her dowry in the mannour of Torpull, an estate of John Camois her first husband, there commenc'd a memorable suit. But she was cast in it, and sentence pass'd, That she ought to have no dowry from thence 416. This I mention with a sort of [Page 173-174] reluctancy; but I perceive Pope Gregory had good reason to write to Archbishop Lanfrank, that he heard, there were some amongst the Scots that not only forsook their Wives, but sold them too; since even in England they so gave and demis'd them.
Upon the shore, a little lower, appears Shoreham, Shoreham. anciently Score-ham, which by little and little has dwindled into a poor village, now call'd Old Shoreham; having given rise to another Town of the same name, the greatest part whereof is ruin'd and under water, and the commodiousness of it's Port, by reason of the banks of sand cast up at the mouth of the river, wholly taken away: whereas in former ages it was wont to carry ships under sail as high as Brember, Brember-Cast [...]e. at a pretty distance from the sea. This was a castle formerly of the Breoses; for K. William 1. gave it to William de Breose, from whom the Breoses, Lords of Gower and Brechnock, are descended; and from them also the Knightly Families of the Shirleys in this County and Leicestershire. But now instead of a castle, there is nothing but a heap of ruins; beneath which lies Stening, on set-days a well-frequented market, which in Aelfred's Will, if I mistake not, is called Steyningham 10 [e].
[...]tus Ad [...]ni. [...] Pro [...] [...]rum.That ancient port also, call'd Portus Adurni, as it seems, is scarce 3 miles off the mouth of the river, where, when the Saxons first infested our seas, the band of Exploratores under the Roman Emperors had their Station; but it is now choaked up with heaps of sand driven together. For both the name, as it were still remaining entire, as also some near adjacent cottages call'd Portslade, that is, the Way to the Port, do in a manner persuade, that this was Ederington, a little village which the said Aelfred granted to his younger son: to say nothing how easily they might land here, the shore being so open and plain. And for that very reason, our men in the reign of Hen. 8. waited chiefly here for the French gallies, while they hover'd upon our Coasts, and suddenly set one or two cottages on fire at Brighthelmsted, which our ancestors term'd BrigHtealmes-tun, the very next Station to it.
Some few miles from hence, a certain anonymous river discharges it self into the sea, which arises out of St. Leonard's Forest near Slaugham, the habitation of the Coverts, who in K. Hen. 3.'s time flourish'd in this quarter with the honour of Knighthood11.
Farther along the Coast, but somewhat remote from the sea, stands Lewes, L [...]wes. upon a rising ground; taking its name perhaps from Pastures, call'd by the Saxons Lesƿa; for largeness and populousness, one of the chief Towns of this County12. In the reign of Edw. the Confessor, It paid six pounds and four shillings D. G [...]blo [...] T [...]h [...]o. D mesday [...]k. for Tax and Toll. The King had there 127 Burgesses. It was their custom, if the King had a mind to send his soldiers to sea without them; that of all of them whosesoever the lands were, there should be collected 20 shillings, and those had it that kept the armour in the ships. Whoso sells an horse within the Borough, gives the Provost one penny, and the buyer gives another; for an ox or cow, a half penny; for a man four pence, wheresoever within the Rape he buys. He that sheds blood, E [...]endat [...], &c. pays 7 shillings. He that commits Adultery or a Rape, 8 shillings and four pence, and the woman as much. The King hath the Adulterer, and the Archbishop the woman. When the money is new made, every Mint-master gives 20 shillings. Of all these payments, two parts went to the King, and a third to the Earl. William de Warren first Earl of Surrey built a Castle here, at the foot whereof he dedicated a Priory to St. Pancrase, and fill'd it with Cluniack Monks, in regard of the holiness, religion, and charity, which he found in the Monastery of Clugny in Burgundy, (I cite this out of the original Instrument of the Foundation,) whilst going in pilgrimage together with his wife, he turn'd in and lodg'd there. But this is now converted to a house of the Earl of Dorset's. Yet there are 6 Churches still remaining in the town, amongst which, not far from the Castle, there stands beneath it a little one quite desolate, and overgrown with bramble, in the walls whereof are engraven in arched work certain rude verses in an obsolete Character; which imply, that one Magnus, descended of the Blood Royal of the Danes, embracing a solitary life, was there buried. But here take the verses themselves, tho' imperfect, and gaping, if I may so say, with the yawning joynts of the stones.
Which perhaps are to be read thus:
During the reign of the Saxons, upon Aethelstan's making a law, that no money should be coin'd but in towns only, he order'd there should be two Minters here. But afterwards, in the reign of the Normans, it became famous for a bloody battel between King Henry 3. and the Barons;1263. The Battel of Lewes. in which the prosperous beginning of the fight on the King's side, was the overthrow of his party. For whilst Prince Edward the King's son breaking thro' some of the Barons troops, carelesly pursu'd the enemy too far, as making sure of the victory; thei Barons rallying their forces, gave a fresh charge, and so routed the King's army, that they compell'd the King to offer conditions of peace dishonourable and unreasonable, and to deliver his son Prince Edward, with others, into their hands13 [f]. Thence we pass by a large lake very full of fish, hard by Furle, the seat of the Gages (who advancing their estate by marriage with one of the heirs of the house of St. Clare, have since been famous) to Cuckmer, 14 a pretty good haven. Then having pass'd the promontory, call'd from the Beach Beachy; the next that comes in our [Page 175-176] way is P [...]ve [...]sey, Pevensey. anciently Pe [...]sensea, by the Normans call'd Pevensel, Forentius Wigorn, p. 452. Rob. de Monte. 1158. but commonly Pemsey; a castle in former times belonging to Robert Earl Moreton, half brother (by the mother's side) to William the Conquerour15; afterwards to William son to King Stephen, who surrender'd it back to King Henry 2. from whom he had receiv'd it as a free gift,Treaty between Henry and K. Stephen. together with the lands formerly of Richer de Aquila, or, of the Eagle, from whom they had the name of the Honour of the Eagle. The honour of the Eagle. Long it lay in the crown, till K. Henry 3. granted it16 to the Earls of Richmond of Bretagne, from whom it fell to the crown again. But now there is nothing remaining of the castle but the walls. Some part of this Honour of the Eagle Henry 4. gave afterwards to the family of the Pelhams, for their loyalty and good services. Ha [...]d by stands Herst amongst the woods,Herst, what it [...]gnifies. which has it's name from it's woody situation. For the Saxons call'd a wood Hyrst. This was, immediately after the first coming in of the Normans, the seat of certain Gentlemen, who from the place were for some time named De Herst, till such time as William son of Walleran de Herst took the name of Monceaux, Register of the Monastery of Roberts-bridge. from the place perhaps of his birth (a thing usual in that age,) whereupon that name was annex'd to the place, call'd ever since, from it's Lord, Herst Monceaux. Herst Monceaux. From whose posterity it descended hereditarily to the Fiennes. Family of the Fiennes. These Fiennes, call'd likewise Fenis, and Fienles, are descended from Ingelram de Fienes, who marry'd the heir of Pharamuse of Boloigne, Pat. 37. H. 6. 17 of whom, K. Henry 6. accepted, declared, and reputed Richard Fenis to be Baron of Dacre. And King Edw. 4. chosen honorary Arbitrator between him and Humphr [...]y Dacre, An. 13 Ed. 4. Lord Dacre of the south confirm'd it to the said Richard Fenis, and to his heirs lawfully begotten; because he had married Joan the Cousin and next heir of Thomas Baron Dacre 18; sin [...]e which time19 his posterity have flourish'd under the dignity of Barons Dacre, till George Fiennes Lord Dacre 20 died very lately without issue. Whose only sister and heir Margaret, Sampson Lennard Esquire, a person of extraordinary virtue and civility, took to wife21. 1066 But (to return back a little)22 at this Pevensey William the Norman (I shall again give you a short account, because the place requires it, of that which I shall treat of more fully elsewhere) arriv'd with his whole navy upon the coast of Britain, landed his army, and having strongly entrench'd his camp, set his ships on fire, that their only hope might lye in their courage and resolution, their only safety in victory. And23 quickly after marched to a Plain near Hastings, 24 where the Dye (as it were) was thrown for the Kingdom of England, and the English Saxon Empire came to an end. For there our Harold, notwithstanding his forces by a former fight with the Danes were much diminish'd, and fatigued by a long march, gave him battel in a place call'd Epiton, K. Harold's fight with William the Conqueror. on the 14th of October 1066. When the Normans had given the signal of battel, the first encounter began with flights of arrows from both armies for some time; then setting foot to foot, as if they fought man to man, they maintain'd the battel a long while: But when the English, with admirable courage and bravery, had receiv'd their fiercest onset, the Norman horse furiously charg'd them with full career. But when neither of these cou'd break the army, they, as they had before agreed, retreated, but kept their ranks in good order. The English, thinking they fled, broke their ranks, and without keeping any order, press'd hard upon the enemy; but they rallying their forces, charg'd afresh on every side with the thickest of them; and encompassing them round, repuls'd them with a mighty slaughter: yet the English having gotten the higher ground, stood it out a long time, till Harold himself was shot thro' with an arrow, and fell down dead; then they presently turn'd their backs, and betook themselves every man to flight.
The Norman proud and haughty with this victory, in memory of the battel,Battel. erected an Abbey, and dedicated it to St. Martin, which he call'd ‖ Battel-Abbey, in that very place where Harold, after many wounds, died amongst the thickest of his enemies; that it might be, as it were, an eternal monument of the Norman victory25. About this Abby there grew up afterwards a town of the same name; or to use the words of the private History, As the Abbey encreas'd, there were built about the compass of the same, 115 houses of which the town of Battel was made. Wherein there is a place in French call'd Sangue-lac, from the blood there shed, which after a shower of rain, from the nature of the earth seems to look reddish; whereupon Guilielmus Neubrigensis wrote, but with little of truth: The place in which there was a very great slaughter of the English fighting for their Country, if it happen to be wetted with a small showre, sweats out real blood, and as it were, fresh: as if the very evidence thereof did plainly declare, that the voice of so much Christian blood doth still cry from the earth to the Lord. But King William granted many and great privileges to this Abbey. And amongst others, to use the very words of the Charter, If any thief, or murderer, or person guilty of any other crime, fly for fear of death, and come to this Church, let him have no harm, but be freely dismissed. Be it lawful also for the Abbot of the same Church to deliver from the Gallows any thief or robber wheresoever, if he chance to come by at the execution.
Henry 1.A marke on Sun [...]y likewise (to give you the very words of his Charter) instituted a market to be there kept on the Lord's Day free from all Toll, and other duty whatsoever. But Anthony Viscount Mountague, who not long since built a fine house there, obtain'd of late by authority of Parliament, to have the market chang'd to another day. And as for the privileges of Sanctuary, in those more heinous and grievous crimes, they are here and every where else quite abolish'd by Act of Parliament. For they perceiv'd well, that the fear of punishment being once remov'd, outragiousness and an inclination to commit wickedness grew still to a greater head, and that hope of impunity was the greatest motive of ill doing. Neither here, nor in the neighbourhood, saw I any thing worth relating,Ashburnham. but only Esuburnham, that has given name to a family of as great antiquity as any in all this tract [g].
Hastings Hastings. before spoken of, call'd in Saxon Hastinga-ceaster, lies somewhat higher, upon the same shore. Some there are that ridiculously derive it from Haste, in our tongue: because as Matthew Paris writes, At Hastings William the Conquerour hastily set up a fortress of timber. But it may rather seem to have taken this new namek from Hasting a Danish Pirate, [Page 177-178] who, where he landed with design to ravage and raise booty, built sometimes little fortresses; as we read in Asserius Menevensis of Beamflote-Castle built by him in Essex, and others at Apledor and Middleton in Kent25. Here in the reign of K. Athelstan was a Mint. It is the chief of the Cinque-ports,Cinque- [...]orts. which with it's members Winchelsea, Rye, &c. was bound to find 21 ships for war at sea. If you have a mind to know in what form both this and the rest also were bound to serve the King in his wars at sea, for those most ample immunities they enjoy, here take it in the very same words wherein this was anciently recorded in the King's Exchequer. Hastings with it's members ought to find 21 ships at the King's summons. And there ought to be in every ship 21 men, able, fitly qualified, well arm'd and well furnish'd for the King's service. Yet so, as that summons be made thereof on the King's behalf 40 days before. And when the aforesaid ships and men therein are come to the place of rendezvous whereunto they were summon'd, they shall abide there in the King's service for 15 days at their own proper costs and charges. And if the King shall have further need of their service, after the 15 days aforesaid, or will have them stay there any longer, those ships with the men therein, while they remain there, shall be in the King's service, at the King's costs and charges, so long as the King pleases. The Master [of each ship] shall have sixpence a day, and the Constable sixpence a day, and every one of the rest three pence a day 26.
The whole Rape of Hastings, together with the Honour, [...]mites [...]enses [...]go de [...]gi, Earls [...] Ew. was held by the Earls of Ew in Normandy, (descended from a Natural son of Richard 1. Duke of Normandy) till Henry 3's time, when Ralph de Issodun in France marry'd Alice, whose posterity lost a noble estate in England, because (as the Lawyers then deliver'd it) they were under the King of France's Allegiance 27. Furthermore, as there were certain great Gentlemen in this County at the beginning of the Norman times sirnam'd de Hastings, one of whom Matthew de Hastings held the mannour of Grenocle, by this tenure, [...]uisitio 5. [...]w. 1. That he should find at this haven an Oar whenever the King would cross the seas: so the noble family of the Hastings, now Earls of Huntingdon, enjoys this title of Hastings. For King Edward 4. bestow'd it, with certain Royalties, upon William Hastings his Chamberlain, [...]illiam [...]d Ha [...]ngs. who is commended by Cominaeus, for that, having receiv'd a yearly pension from Lewis xi. the French King, he could not by any means be perswaded to give him an acquittance under his own hand. I will in no case, said he, that my hand be seen among the accounts of the French King's treasury. But this man, by falling too deep into the friendship of Kings, quite overwhelmed himself. For whilst he deliver'd his mind too freely in a Cabinet-Council with the Usurper Richard 3. he was unexpectedly hurried away, and without trial beheaded immediatelyl. Neither must we forget to take notice, [...]. H. 6. [...]on Hoo [...]d Ha [...]ngs. that King Henry 6. ennobled Tho. Hoo a worthy person (whom he also chose into the Order of the Garter) with the Title of Baron Hoo and Hastings; whose daughters and heirs were marry'd to Geoffrey Bollen (from whom by the mothers side Queen Elizabeth was descended) to Roger Copeley, John Carew, and John Devenish.
Thence the shore retires backwards, and is hollow'd inwards, being full of many windings and creeks, within which stands Winchelsea, Winchelsea built in the time of K. Edward 1. when a more ancient town of the same name, in Saxon Wincelsea, was quite swallow'd up by the raging and tempestuous Ocean, in the year 1250. (at which time the face of the earth both here, and in the adjoyning coast of Kent, was much alter'd.) It's situation I will set before you in the very words of Tho. Walsingham. Situate it is upon a very high hill, very steep on that side, which looks towards the sea, or overlooks the Road where the Ships lie at Anchor. Whence it is that the way leading from that port to the haven, goes not streight forward, lest it should by a down-right descent force those that go down to fall head-long, or them that go up to creep rather on their hands, than walk: but lying sideways, it winds with crooked turns in and out, to one side and the other. At first it was inclos'd with a mud, after with a very strong wall: but scarce began to flourish, till it was sack'd by the French and Spaniards; and by the sea's shrinking back from it, as it were on a sudden faded and fell to decay28 [h]. By which accident, and the benefit of the sea, it's neighbour Rye Rye. began to flourish, or rather to reflourish; for that it flourish'd in ancient times, and that William of Ipres Earl of Kent fortify'd it; Ipres Tower, and the immunities and privileges that it had in common with the Cinque-Ports, do sufficiently shew. But either by reason of the Vicinity of Winchelsea, or the sea's recess, it was inconsiderable for a long time. But when Winchelsea decay'd, and King Edward 3. wall'd it about, it began to recover it self; and within the memory of our fathers, the Ocean, to make a rich amends for the injury it had done, swell'd with an extraordinary tempest, and broke so violently in (insinuating it self in form of a bay) that it made a very convenient Port, which another tempest likewise in our age did not a little contribute to. Since which time it has greatly re-flourish'd with inhabitants, buildings, fishing and navigation, and is now the usual passage from hence to Normandy29. But as to it's name, whether it takes it from Rive, a Norman word, which signifies a Bank, I cannot easily say. Yet since in Records it is very often call'd in Latin ripa, and they who bring fish from thence are termed Ripiers, I encline the rather this way; and should encline more, if the French us'd this word for a shore, as Pliny does Ripa 30.
Into this haven the river Rother or Rither hath it's influx, which springing at Ritheramfeld, River Rother. (for so the old English call'd that town, which we call Rotherfeld) runs by Burgwash, formerly Burghersh, Lords Burghersh. which had Lords so sirnam'd; amongst whom was that Sir Bartholomew Burgwash, a mighty man in his time, who being found by most solemn embassies, and the wars in Aquitain, to be a person of great prudence and undaunted valour, was thought fit to be created a Baron of England, and to be admitted into the Order of the Garter, at the very first institution, even amongst the Founders; as also to be Constable of Dover-Castle, and Warden of the Cinque-Ports. And his son of the same Christian name, no way degenerating from his father, liv'd in a great deal of splendor and honour, but left but one only daughter behind him, marry'd into the family of Le Despencer; descendedm [Page 179-180] from whom many noble persons still remain. Echingham next adjoyning had also a Baron in the time of K. Edward 2.Baron Echingham. William de Echingham, whose ancestors wereSeneschalli. Stewards of this Rape. But the Inheritance by heirs females came to the Barons of Windsor, and the Tirwhitts. Then the Rother dividing his waters into 3 chanels,Robertsbridge or Rotherbridge. Bodiam. passes under Robertsbridge, where in the reign of Hen. 2. Alured de St. Martin founded a Monasterym; and so running by Bodiam, a Castle belonging to the ancient and famous family of the Lewkneys, built by the Dalegrigs, here falls into the sea.
Now I have pass'd along the sea-coast of Sussex. As for the Mediterranean parts, there is nothing worth taking notice of, unless I shou'd reckon up the Woods and Forests, (of great extent both in length and breadth) the remains of the vast and famous wood Anderida. Among which, to begin at the west, the most noted are these; the Forest of Arundel, S. Leonard's Forest, Word Forest 31, Ashdown Forest, (under which lies Buckhurst, Baron Backhur [...]t. the seat of the ancient family of the Sackvils, of which Q Elizabeth in our memory advanced Thomas Sackvil, 32 a Gentleman of great wisdom, to be Baron of Buckhurst, took him into her Privy Council, elected him into the most honorable Order of the Garter, and made him Lord Treasurer of England; whom also, of late, K. James created Earl of Dorset:) Waterdown Forest 33, and that of Dallington, the least of all.
Earls of Sussex. See the E [...]ls [...]f Arundel.Sussex has had 5 Earls of the family of D'Aubeney, who were likewise called Earls of Arundel 34; the first of them was William D'Aubeney, the son of William, Butler to King Hen. 1. and Lord of Buckenham in Norfolk, who gave for his Arms Gules, a Lion rampant Or, and was call'd sometimes Earl of Arundel, and sometimes Earl of Chichester, because in those places he kept his chief residence. He had by Adeliza (daughter of Godfrey Barbatus Duke of Lorrain and Brabant, Queen Dowager to King Hen. 1.) William the 2d. Earl of Sussex and Arundel, Father of William the 3d. Earl; unto whom Mabil, sister and one of the heirs of the last Ranulph Earl of Chester, bore William the 4th Earl, and Hugh the 5th Earl, who both died issueless; and also 4 Daughters, married to Robert Lord of Tateshall, John Fitz-Alan, Roger de Somery, and Robert de Mount-hault. Afterwards the title of Arundel sprouted forth again, as I said before, in the Fitz-Alans. But that of Sussex lay, as it were, forgotten and lost, till our age, which hath seen 5 Ratcliffs descended of the most noble house of the Fitz-Walters (that fetch'd their original from the Clares) bearing that honour; viz. Robert created Earl of Sussex by K. Hen. 8.21 H [...]t who married Elizabeth daughter of Henry Stafford, Duke of Buckingham, by whom he had Henry, the 2d Earl; to whom Eliz. the daughter of Tho. Howard Duke of Norfolk bore Thomas: who was Lord Chamberlain to Queen Elizabeth, and dy'd without issue; a Heroe of very great worth and honour, in whose mind were joyntly seated both the wisdom of a Statesman, and the courage of a Soldier, as England and Ireland had reason to acknowledge. Henry his brother succeeded him; after Henry, Robert his only son, an honourable young Gentleman, who now enjoys the Earldom.
This County contains 312 Parishes.
So much for Sussex, which together with Surrey, was the seat of the Regni; afterwards the Kingdom of the South-Saxons,The kingdom of the South-Saxons. called in Saxon† Suþ-seaxan-ric, which 31 years after the coming in of the Saxons, was begun by Aella, who, according to Bede, "First amongst the Kings of the English Nation, ruled all their southern Provinces, which are sever'd by the River Humber, and the adjacent limits." The first Christian King was Edilwalch, baptiz'd in the presence of Wulpher, King of Mercia, his Godfather, who gave him in token of adoption two Provinces, the Isle of Wight, and the Province of the Meanvari. But in the 306th year from the beginning of this Kingdom, upon Aldinius the last King's being slain by Ina, it came wholly under the Dominion of the West-Saxons.
ADDITIONS to SƲSSEX.
[a] THE County of Sussex, as in the north part it still abounds with wood, so (as our Author observes) the greatest part of it seems to have been formerly in the same condition. For I can never believe, but that vast Weald, being 30 miles in breadth, and beginning in the south part of Kent, must in it's way to Hamshire, take up a considerable tract of this Shire. And if so, we may inferr from hence this account of it; that the inhabitants could be but very few and thin-plac'd for a long time. Which is plain from the twoLambard Perambulat. p. 224. Somner's Forts and Forts, p. 107. Kentish Antiquaries, affirming that for a great while the whole Weald was scarce any thing else, besides a desert and vast wilderness; not planted with towns, or peopl d with men, but stuff'd with herds of deer, and droves of hogs only. Which account may be very rationally grounded upon this bottom, that no part of the Weald appears by the several Grants to have been let out by the King (the only Lord and Proprietor of it) in Manours, but in so many Dens, which imply'd only a woody place yielding covert and feeding for cattel; and that there is no other use of them express'd, but only Pannage for hogs. From which hint is gather'd the primitive state of the greatest part of this County.
[b] In after times, our Author observes among other things, that they dea [...]t in the Glass-trade. Put that lasted not long: for whether it was that it turn'd to little account, or that they found themselves outvy'd by other places, there are now no Glass-houses in the whole County.
At present (as in our Author's time) they are most famous for the Iron-works, which are in several places of this County; some whereof have both a Furnace and Forge, others a Forge only, and others only a Furnace. Near Hastings also are two powdermills, where is made as good Gun-powder as any in England. And in that end of the County where the Iron-works are, namely the East, Char-coal is made in great abundance.
[c] To go along now with Mr. Camden. St. R [...]-hill. North of Chichester (which has given the title of Earl to Francis Leigh Lord Dunsmore, and after him, to Charles Fitz-Roy natural son to K. Charles 2.) is a place call'd St. Rook's hill; A [...] M [...]. [...] MS. and upon it is still to be seen an old camp, the diameter whereof is two furlongs and better. The form of it is circular, from which thus much may be undoubtedly gather'd, that it is not Roman, but probably Danish. Those who have an opportunity of searching into the Records of the place, would do well to consider whether the true name of it is not S. Roch's hill; for he was patron of the pilgrims; and here was formerly a Chapel, which might possibly enough be dedicated to him.
A mile and a half from this place to the west, is a Camp call'd Gonshill, Gon [...]h [...] Ibid. which being of a different [Page 181-182] form, must be made by some other people. The figure of it is an oblong square, which comes nearest to the Roman way of encamping.
The B [...]ile.Hard by Chichester, towards the west, ‖ there has been also another large Roman Camp call'd the Brile, of an oblong form; 4 furlongs and 2 perches in length, and 2 furlongs in breadth. It lies in a flat low ground, with a great rampire and single graff; and in such a place, as renders it probable enough to have been that of Vespasian's after his landing,
[d] Eastward from hence is Arundel, [...]rundel. which our Author observes to be of more fame than real note; tho' it is now a market-town, and a borough sending 2 Burgesses to Parliament. The famous high-way Stanesstreet-causeway, which is in some places 10 yards broad, but in most 7, comes to this town out of Surrey by Belinghurst. It is a yard and a half deep in stones (which they discover by cutting passages to let in water,) and runs in a streight line. It is made of flints and pebbles, tho' no flints are found within 7 miles of it.
As the story of Bevis's horse call'd Arundel, ought not to be altogether rejected; so neither ought our Author's name of the river Arun, and derivation of the town from thence, be too securely clos'd with. For, that Bevis was founder of the Castle, is a current opinion handed down by tradition; and there is a tower in it still known by the name of Bevis's tower, which they say was his own apartment. Besides, 'tis natural enough to imagine that the name of a horse might be Arundel, from his swiftness; since that word in French signifies a Swallow, and the present Arms of the town (which is corporate by Prescription) are a Swallow. Now why might not Bevis's Arundel as well have the honour of naming a town wherein his master had a particular interest; as Alexander's Bucephalus had, of a city? But whatever approbation this conjecture may meet with, 'tis certain that Mr. Camden's fetching it from Arun will not hold. For that river is call'd High-stream, to distinguish it from the other small rivulets or streams; and seems to have bore the same name (as to the sense at least) all along. The Norman English call'd it Hault-rey; and answerably, the middle-aged Latin writers, Alta ripa, (so Mr. Camden tells us that Rhie in this County is call'd in Latin Ripa; and several branches breaking out of the High-stream are at this day call'd Ripes or Rifes.) There was also an ancient family of Knights, owners of much land in these parts (even in the bosom of this great river in the parish of Hardham otherwise Feringham) call'd from it de Hault Rey; and their posterity remains in these parts to this day, under the name of D'Awtrey, in Latin De alta Ripa.
But our Author's interpretation, Aruntina vallis, will not by any means suit either the name of the place, or the circumstances of it. For tho' it be writ several ways, yet no one makes it end in dale; nor is a low tract of ground ever express'd by that word in this County (as it is in other parts of England,) but by a Level; as Pevensey-Level, Lewes-Level, Bramber-Level, Arundel-Level, with many others. And the Commissioners of Sewers call the Imposition laid upon Land for repair of publick banks and sluces, a Level-tax.
[...] E [...]rls [...]i [...]ed.Thomas Howard, being restor'd in blood 1 Jac. 1. and dying An. 1646. was succeeded in his honours by his son Henry, who in the life-time of his father was summon'd to Parliament by the titles of Lord Moubray and Maltravers. By whose death An. 1652. this title came to Thomas his eldest son, restor'd also, 13 Car. 2. to the title of Duke of Norfolk, which had been forfeited by the Attainder of Thomas the last Duke. By which means, the title of Duke of Norfolk came to Henry his brother, along with the Earldoms of Arundel and Surrey; who now among other honours enjoys them.
[e] Towards the north-east lies Findon; [...]don. within a mile of which is an ancient Camp, at about 2 miles distance from the sea. 'Tis call'd Caesar's-hill, because the people imagine it was Caesar's Camp; and they pretend to shew the place where Caesar's tent was. Notwithstanding which, the form of it shews that opinion to be an error; for being roundish, it seems rather to have been a British work.
[f] And farther eastward, near Lewes,Lewes. there is another Camp. From whence going forwards, we meet with Pemsey, Pemsey. whichForts and Ports in Kent. Mr. Somner (disallowing Camden's, Lambard's, and Selden's conjecture of Newenden) thought to be the ancient Anderida, where was the band of the Abulae; grounding partly upon Gildas's words expressing the situation of these garrisons, In littore Oceani ad meridiem, on the sea-shore to the south; and the design of them, to ken and spy out the invading enemy: and partly upon the antiquity of the place, which Archbishop Usher makes the old Caer Pensavelcoit of the Britains; by the coit, i.e. wood, the former condition of this County being hinted to. But tho' he seems most inclin'd to this place, yet he is not altogether so positive, but either Hastings, or even Newenden, may lay claim to this piece of Antiquity.
[g] Not far from hence is Ashburnham, Ashburnham. of which place and family John Ashburnham Esquire, Grandfather to the present Lord Ashburnham, built there a handsome Church with 3 Chancels. There is also a noble house of the present Lord Ashburnham's, which for stately buildings and convenient garden-room, is one of the best in this County.
North-east from hence lies Breede, Breede. the Court whereof is a branch of that at Battle, and hath the same privilege and process. The Lands in the manour of Breede, tho' in Sussex, descend according to the custom of Gavel-kind. Here is a kind of Cou [...]t kept every 3 weeks, where Actions between man and man are try'd; and the Officers are exempt from attending the Assizes or Sessions.
[h] To the east, upon the sea-shore, is Winchelsey, Winchelsey whichDe rebus Albion. pag. 25. Twine falsly imagines to have been written originally Windchelseum, from it's being expos'd to the winds; for so he adds, Olim vento, frigori, & ponto obnoxium, unde ei nomen obvenit. But 'tis by Mr. Somner interpreted, a waterish place seated in a corner, which exactly answers the nature and situation of the place, lying at the corner of Kent and Sussex. The new town was endow'd with the same privileges which the old one had, namely, those of the Cinque-ports to which it belongs as one of the ancient towns. It still retains that of sending 2 Burgesses to Parliament, tho' the Electors are but very few; the town being most miserably decay'd by the loss of it's market, trade, and all inhabitants of any note. An argument whereof is, that the grass grows in the very streets (tho' they are all pav'd) to that degree, as makes the herbage sometimes yeild 4 l. per An.
It seems at first to have been built with admirable regularity, the streets standing all at right angles, and divided into 32 squares; or quarters, as they are now call'd. There were anciently in it 3 Parish-Churches, tho' there is now only the chancel of the largest of them remaining, which is the present Parish-Church. The stone work of the three gates is yet standing.
This place has afforded the title of Countess to Elizabeth wife to Sir Moyle Finch, and daughter and heir to Sir Thomas Heneage Knight; having been before created Viscountess of Maidstone by K. James 1. which titles descended to Sir Tho. Finche, her son, whose eldest son Heneage is now Earl of Winchelsey.
At some distance from Winchelsea is Selscombe, Selscombe. where (as also in several places of this County) are mineral-waters of the same nature with those at Tunbridge, and altogether as strongly impregnated.
More to the east, in the parish of East-Guildford East-Guildford. (which is the utmost bounds of Sussex eastward) is a peculiar way of Tithing their marsh-lands, whereby they pay only 3 d. per Acre to the Rector, whilst in pasture; but if plough'd, 5 s.
Continuation of the EARLS.
Robert, the last Earl mention'd by our Author, dying 5 Car. 1. left the title of Earl of Sussex to his son Edward; but he having no issue, the family of the Ratcliffs Earls of Sussex ended in him, and that [Page 183-184] title was conferr'd on the 25 of May 1644. upon Thomas Lord Savil of Pontfract, and was afterwards enjoy'd by James his son, who dy'd without issue. Upon which Thomas Leonard, Lord Dacres of Gillisland, An. 1674. had this honour conferr'd upon him.
More rare Plants growing wild in Sussex.
Alysson Germanicum echioides Lob. Buglossum sylvestre caulibus procumbentibus C. B. Borago minor sylvestris Park. Cynoglossa fortè topiaria Plinii & Echium lappulatum quibusdam J. B. Aparine major Plinii Ger. Small wild Bugloss, by some great Goose-grass and German Mudwort. Found by Boxley in this County.
Chamaedrys spuria foliis pediculis oblongis insidentibus. An chamaedryi spuriae affinis rotundifolia scutellata C. B? Alysson Dioscoridis montanum. Col. Wild or bastard Germander with leaves standing on long footstalks. In moist woods and hedges. I observed it first at Cockfield in Sussex.
Filix saxatilis ramosa maritima nostras. Filix saxatilis crispa Parkinsoni D. Merret Pin. Small-branched Stone-fern. I observed this first growing on the rocks by the sea side in this County, where it was sometimes dashed with the sea-water.
Foeniculum vulgare. Common Fennel or Finckle. Observed by Tho. Willisell to grow plentifully at the west-end of Pemsey marsh.
Lathyri majoris species flore rubente & albido minore dumetorum, sive Germanicus J. B. sylvestris Dod. angustifolius Clusii ex sententia J. B. sylv. major C. B. sylv. Dodonaei Park. The other great wild Lathyrus or Pease-everlasting. I found this first near Poynings a village on the Downs of Sussex. Since, Mr. Dale hath found it in Essex.
Oenanthe Cicutae facie Lobelii Park. Chaerephylli foliis C. B. Succo viroso, Cicutae facie Lobelio J. B. Filipendula Cicutae facie Ger. Hemlock Dropwort. Frequent in watery ditches and rivulets in this Country.
Peucedanum Ger. vulgare Park. Germanicum C. B. Minus Germanicum J. B. Hogs Fennel, Sulphur-wort, Harestrong. In the marsh ditches about Shoreham.
CANTIUM.
I Am now come to Kent; a country, indeed, which William Lambard, a person eminent for Learning and piety, had describ'd so much to the life in a just Volume, and has been so lucky in his searches, that he has left but very little for those that come after him. Yet in pursuit of my intended method, I will run this over among the rest, and lest (as the Comick Poet says) any one should suspect meSublesta fide agere. to be a pilferer, I here gratefully acknowledge, that he was my Foundation and Fountain.
Time has not yet depriv'd this Country of it's ancient name; but as Caesar, Strabo,Carion, corruptly read in Diodorus Siculus. Diodorus Siculus, Ptolemy, and others, call it Cantium; so the Saxons (as Ninnius tells us) nam'd it Cant-guar-lantð, i.e. the country of men inhabiting Kent; and we now, Kent †. Lambard fetches this name from Cainc, signifying in British a green leaf, because 'twas formerly shaded with woods. But for my part (if I may be allow'd the liberty of a conjecture,) when I observe that here Britain shoots out into a large corner eastward, and farther take notice, that such a corner in Scotland is call'd Cantir, that the inhabitants also of another angle in that part of the Island are by Ptolemy call'd Cantae, that the Cangani were possess'd of another corner in Wales, (not to mention the Cantabri, inhabiting a corner among the Celtiberians, who as they had the same original, so did they make use of the same language with our Britains;) upon these grounds, I should guess it to have that name from the situation. And the rather, both because our French have us'dFrom whence in Heraldry, Canton is put for a corner; and the country of the Helvetii, call'd by the French Cantones, as if one should say, Corners. Canton for a corner, borrowing it, probably, from the ancient language of the Gaules, (for it is not either from the German or Latin, which together with that ancient one, are the only ingredients of our modern French,) as also because this County is call'd Angulus, or a corner, by all the old Geographers. For it faces France with a large corner, surroundeda on every side by the Aestuary of Thames and the Ocean, except upon the west, where it borders upon Surrey; and upon part of Sussex to the south.
KENT.
THIS Country, which we now call Kent 1, is not altogether uniform; to the west it is more plain, and shaded with woods; but to the east, rises with hills of an easie ascent. The inhabitants, according to it's situation from the Thames southward, distinguish it into three plots or portions, (they call them degrees;) the upper, lying upon the Thames, they look upon as healthy, but not altogether so rich; the middle, to be both healthy and rich; the lower, to be rich, but withal unhealthy, [...]umney [...]sh. because of the natural moisture in most parts of it: 'tis, however, very fruitful in grass. As for good meadows, pastures, and corn-fields, it has these in most places, [...]. l. 15. [...]. [...]rries [...]ught in [...] [...]ritain [...]ut the [...] of [...]st 48. and abounds with apples to a miracle; as also with cherries, which were brought out of Pontus into Italy, 680 years after the building of Rome; and 120 years afterwards, into Britain. They thrive exceeding well in those parts, and take up great quantities of ground, making a very pleasant show by reason [...] [...]in [...]an di [...]ae. they are set by square, and stand one against another which way soever you look. It is very thick set with villages and towns2, has pretty safe harbours, with some veins of iron; but the air is a little thick and foggy, because of the vapours rising out of the waters3. The inhabitants at this day may justly claim that commendation for humanity which Caesar bestow'd upon those in his time; not to mention their bravery in war, [...] war [...] cou [...]e of the [...]ish- [...]n. which a certain Monk has observ'd to be so very eminent in the Kentish men, that in their engagements among the rest of the English, the front of the battel was look'd upon to belong properly to them, as tob so many Triarii. Which is confirm'd by John of Salisbury in his Polycraticon. As a reward (says he) of that signal courage which our Kent with great eagerness and steadiness shew'd against the Danes, they do to this day lay claim to the honour of the first ranks, and the first on-set in all engagements. And Malmesbury too has writ thus in their praise. The country people and the town-dwellers of Kent, retain the spirit of that ancient nobility, above the rest of the English; being more ready to afford a respect and kind entertainment to others, and less inclinable to revenge injuries.
Caesar (to speak something by way of preface,Julius Caesar. before I come to the places themselves) in his first attempt upon our Island arriv'd upon this coast; and the Kentish Britains opposing his landing, he got to shore not without a hot dispute. In his second expedition too, he landed his army here; and the Britains, with their horse and theirEssedis. chariots, receiv'd him warmly at the river Stour; but being quickly repuls'd by the Romans, retir'd into the woods. Afterwards they had some hot skirmishes with the Roman Cavalry in their march, but still the Romans were upon all accounts too hard for them. Some time after they attack'd the Romans again, broke through the midst of them, and after they had slain Laberius Durus a Tribune, made a safe retreat, and next day surpris'd the forragers, &c. which I have above related out of Caesar.See the general part, under the title Romans in Britain. At which time Cyngetorix, Carvilius, Taximagulus, and Segonax, were Governours of Kent, whom he therefore calls Kings, because he would be thought to have conquer'd Kings; whereas they were really no more thanReguli. Lords of the Country, or Noblemen of the better sort. After the Roman government was establish'd here, it was under the jurisdiction of the Governour of Britannia Prima. But the sea-coast, which they term'd Littus Saxonicum, or the Saxon shore (as also the opposite shore from the Rhine to Xantoigne) had from the time of Dioclesian a peculiar Governour, call'd by Marcellinus, Count of the sea coast, Count of the Saxon shore. by the Notitia, Notitia. the honourable the Count of the Saxon-shore in Britain; whose particular business it was to fix garrisons upon the sea-coast in places convenient, to prevent the plunders of the Barbarians, especially the Saxons, who heavily infested Britainec. He was under the command of the Illustrious, the Master of the foot, whom they stil'dd Praesentalis, and who beside the particular [Page] garrisons for the ports, assign'd him the Victores Juniores Britanniciani, the Primani Juniores, and the Secundani Juniores, (these are the names of so many Companies,) to have ready upon all occasions. His Office or Court he had in this manner; Principem ex officio Magistri praesentalium à parte peditum. Numerarios duos, Commentariensem, Cornicularium, Adjutorem, Subadjuvam, Regendarium, Exceptores Singulares, &c. i.e. A Principal or Master out of the Masters or Generals relating to the foot, twoe Accountants, af Gaoler, ag Judge-Advocate, anh Assistant, an Under-Assistant, a Register, thei particular Receivers, k &c. And I no way doubt, but it was in imitation of this method of the Romans, that our Ancestors set over this coast a Governour or Portreve, commonly call'd Warden of the Cinque-ports; Warden of the Cinque-ports. because as the Count of the Saxon-shore presided over nine, so does he over five ports.
Kent deliver'd to the Saxons.But after the Romans had quitted Britain, Vortigern who had the command of the greatest part of it, set over Kent a Guorong, i.e. a Vice-Roy or Freeman; without whose knowledge he frankly bestow'd this Country (as Ninnius, and Malmesbury have it) upon Hengist the Saxon, on the account of his daughter Rowenna, with whom he was passionately in love [a.] Thus was the first kingdom of the Saxons settled in Britain, in the year of Christ 456. call'd by them Cantƿara-ryc, i.e. the kingdom of the Kentish-men; which, after 320 years, upon Baldred the last King's being conquer'd, came under the jurisdiction of the West-Saxons, and continu'd so till the Norman Conquest. For then (if we may believe Thomas Spot the Monk, no ancient Writer having any thing of it,) the Kentish men carrying boughs before them4, surrendred themselves to William the Conquerour at Swanescomb (a small village, where they tell us that Suene the Dane formerly encamp'd,) upon condition they might have the Customs of their Country preserv'd entire; that especially which they call Gavel-kind Gavel kind [b]. By which5 all lands of that nature are divided among the males by equal portions; or upon defect of issue-male, among the females. By this they enter upon the estate at 15 years of age, and have power to make it over to any one either by gift or sale, without consent of the Lord. By the same the sons succeed to this sort of lands, tho' their parents be condemn'd for theft, &c. So that what we find in an ancient Book is very true, tho' not elegantly written: The County of Kent urges that that County ought of right to be exempt from any such burthen, because it affirms that this County was never conquer'd as was the rest of England, but surrender'd it self to the Conqueror's power upon Articles of agreement, provided that they should enjoy all their liberties and free customs which they then had, and us'd from the beginning. William the Conqueror afterwards, to secure Kent, which is look'd upon to be the Key of England, set a Constable over Dover-castle; and constituted the same (in imitation of the ancient Roman custom) Governour of 5 ports, stiling him Warden of the Cinque-ports. Lord Warden of the 5 Ports. Those are Hastings, Dover, Hith, Rumney and Sandwich; to which Winchelsey and Rie are annext as Principals, and some other little towns as members only. And because they are oblig'd to serve in the wars by sea, they enjoy many and large immunities: For instance, from payment of Subsidies, See in Sussex, p. 177. from Wardship of their children as to body; not to be su'd in any Courts but within their own town; and such of their inhabitants as have the name of Barons, at the Coronation of the Kings and Queens of England, support the Canopy, and for that day have their table spread and furnish'd upon the King's right hand, &c. And the Lord Warden himself, who is always some one of the Nobility of approv'd loyalty, has within his jurisdiction in several cases the authority of6 Admiral, and other privileges. But now to the places.
The Thames, chief of all the British rivers, runs (as I observ'd but now) along the north part of this County; which leaving Surrey, and by a winding course almost retiring into it self [c.]7, first sees Depford, Depfo [...]d a most noted Dock, where the Royal Navy is built; and when shatter'd, repair'd: there is also settled a famous Store house, and a place or incorporation something like aH [...] na [...] College, for the use of the navy. It was formerly call'd West Greenwich, and upon the Conquest of England fe [...]l to the share of Gislebert de Mamignot a Norman,Ma [...]ig [...] whose grandchild by the son, Walkelin, it was, that defended Dover-castle against King Stephen; and he left behind him one only daughter, who, upon the death of her brother, brought by marriage a large estate, call'd the Honour of Mamignot, into the family of the Says [d].
From hence the Thames goes to Grenovicum, G [...]a [...] commonly Greenwich, i.e. the green creak (for the creak of a river is call'd in German Wic,) formerly famous for being a harbour of the Danish fleet, and for the cruelty that people exercis'd upon Ealpheg Archbishop of Canterbury (whom they put to death by most exquisite torments in the year 1012.) Whose death, and the cause of it, Ditmarus Mersepurgius, who liv'd about that time, has thus describ'd in the eighth book of his Chronicle. By the relation of Sewald I came to know a very tragical, and therefore memorable act. How a treacherous company of [...] Due [...] Northern men, whose Captain Thurkil now is, seized upon that excellent Archbishop of Canterbury Ealpheg, with others; and according to their barbarous treatment fetter'd him, put him to endure famine, and other unspeakable pains. He, overpower'd by humane frailty, promises them money, fixing a time against which he would procure it, that if within that, no acceptable ransom offer'd it self whereby he might escape a momentary death, he might however purge himself by frequent groans, to be offer'd a lively sacrifice to the Lord. When the time appointed was come, this greedy gulf of Pirates calls forth the servant of the Lord, and with many threatnings presently demands the tribute he had promis'd. His answer was. Here am I like a meek lamb, ready to undergo all things for the love of Christ, which you presume to inflict upon me; that I may be thought worthy of being an example to his servants. This day I am no way disturb'd. As to my seeming a lier to you, it was not my own will, but the extremity of want that brought me to it. This body of mine, which in this exile I have lov'd but too much, I surrender to you as criminal; and I know it is in your power to do with it what you please; but my sinful soul, over which you have no power, I humbly commit to the Creator of all things. While he spake thus, a troop of profane villains encompass'd him, and got together several sorts of weapons to dispatch him. Which when their Captain Thurkil perceiv'd at some distance, he ran to them in all haste, crying, I desire you would not by any means do so; I freely divide among you my gold, silver, and whatever I have or can procure (except the ship only,) on condition you do not offend against the Lord's Ci [...] Anointed. But this fair language did not soften the unbridled anger of his fellows, harder than iron and rocks; nor could it be appeas'd but by the effusion of innocent blood, which they presently and unanimously spilt, by pouring upon him Ox-heads, and showres of stones, 8 and sticks. Now the place is famous [Page] for being a Royal seat, built by Humfrey Duke of Glocester, and call'd by him Placentia. K. Hen. 7. very much enlarg'd it, added to it a small house of Friers Mendicants, and finish'd that tower9, which Duke Humfrey had begun on the top of a high hill, from which there is a most pleasant prospect down to the winding river, and the green meadows that lie below10. It is now much enlarg'd and beautify'd, for which it is indebted to it's new inhabitant Henry Howard Earl of Northampton11. But the greatest ornament by far that Greenwich has, is our Elizabeth, who being born here by a happy providence, did so enlighten Britain, nay, and even the whole world, with the rays of her royal virtues, that no praise can equal her merit. But as to what concerns Greenwich, take the verses of our Antiquary Leland,
I have nothing else to observe in this place, unless it be (not to let the memory of deserving and worthy persons perish) that William Lambard, a person of great learning and singular piety, built a hospital here for relief of the poor, which he call'd Queen Elizabeth's College for the poor 12. [...]m. Behind this, at scarce three miles distance, lies Eltham, a retiring place also of the Kings13, built by Anthony Bec Bishop of Durham and Patriarch of Jerusalem, and bestow'd upon Eleanor wife to K. Edward 1. after he had craftily got the estate of the Vescies, to whom it formerly belong'd. For 'tis said that this Bishop, whom the last Baron of Vescy made his Feoffee in trust, [...] of [...]am. that he might keep the estate for William de Vescy his young son but illegitimate; scarce dealt so fair with this Orphan as he should have done14.
breachBelow Greenwich, the Thames throwing down it's banks, has laid several acres of ground under water: and some, for many years endeavouring to keep it out at vast expence, scarce find their works and walls able to defend the neighbouring fields against the incursions of the Tide15. There is great plenty of Cochlearia or Scurvygrass [...]ygrass growing here, which some Physicians will have to be Pliny's Britannica; and upon that account I mention it in this place [f]. But take Pliny's own words: In Germany, when Germanicus Caesar remov'd his Camp forward beyond the Rhine, in the maritime tract, there was one fountain (and no more) of fresh water, which if one drank of, his teeth would drop out in two years time, and the joynts of his knees become loose and feeble. Those evils the Physicians term'd Stomacace, and Scelety [...]be.The herb Britannica For remedy hereof the herb call'd Britannica was found out, not only good for the sinews and mouth, but also against the Squinsie, and stinging of serpents, &c. The Frisians, where our Camp was, show'd it to our soldiers: and I wonder what should be the reason of that name, unless the Inhabitants of the sea-coasts dedicated it to the name of Britain, as lying so near it. But the learned Hadrianus Junius in his Nomenclator brings another,See in the British liles concerning the Armamentarium Brita [...]n [...] cum. and indeed more probable reason of the name; whom for your satisfaction please to consult; for this word Britannica has drawn me out of my road.
The Thames afterwards growing narrower, is met by the river Darent, which coming out of Surrey, flows with a gentle chanel not far from Seven-oke, Seven-oke. so call'd (as they say) from seven Oaks of an exceeding height16 [g]; and so to Ottanford, now Otford, Otford. famous for a bloody defeat of the Danes in the year 1016 [h], and proud of it's Royal house, built by Warham Archbishop of Canterbury for him and his successors with such splendour and stateliness, that Cranmer his immediate successor, to avoid envy, was forc'd to exchange it with Henry 8. Lullingston, Lullingston where was formerly a castle, the seat of a noble family of the same name17, lies lower down upon the Darent [i]; which at it's mouth gives name to Darentford, commonly Dartford, Dartford. a large and throng market [k]18; and below that receives the little river Crecce 19. At Creccanford, now Creyford, a ford over this river, Hengist the Saxon, eight years after the coming in of the Saxons, engag'd the Britains, where he cut off their Commanders, and gave them such a bloo [...]y defeat, that afterwards he quietly establish'd his kingdom in Kent, without any fear of disturbance from that quarter.
From Darent to the mouth of Medwey, the Thames sees nothing but some small towns; the omission whereof will be no damage either to their reputation, or any thing else [l]20. However, the most considerable of them are these: Graves-end 21,Gravesend. remarkable as any town in England22, for being a sort of station between Kent and London; where King Hen. 8.† fortify'd both sides of the river23. On the back of this, a little more within land, stands Cobham, for a long time the seat of the Barons of Cobham, Barons of Cobham. the last whereof John Cobham built a College here, and a Castle at Couling, leaving one only daughter, wife of John de la Pole, Knight: who had by her one only daughter Joan, marry'd to several husbands. But she had issue only by Reginald Braybrok. Her third husband24 John de Oldcastle, was hang'd and burnt for endeavouring innovations in Religion. But the only daughter of Reginald Braybrooke, call'd Joan, was marry'd to Thomas Brook of the County of Somerset: from him the sixth in a lineal descent was lately Henry Brooke Baron Cobham, who, because fortune did not humour him in every thing, by the force of insolence and anger was induc'd to throw off his Allegiance to the kindest of Princes: for which he had the sentence of death pass'd upon him; but remains alive to this day a lasting monument of the Royal clemency.
From Graves-end, a small tract like a Chersonese call'd Ho, Ho. shoots it self out a long way to the east between the Thames and the Medway; 1603 the situation of it not very wholsom25. In it is Cliffe, Cliffe. a pretty large town, so nam'd from the Cliff upon which it stands. [Page] But whether this be that Clives at Ho, famous for a Synod in the infancy of the English Church, I dare not (as some others are) be positive; partly because the situation is not very convenient for a Synod, and partly because this Clives at Ho seems to have been in the kingdom of Mercia [m].
The river Medwege, now Medway Medway. (in British, if I mistake not, Vaga, to which the Saxons added Med,) rises in the wood Anderida, call'd Wealde Weald. (i.e. a woody country) which for a long way together takes up the south part of this County. At first, being yet but small26,Pensherst. it runs by Pens-hurst 27, the seat of the ancient family of the Sidneys, descended from William de Sidney, Sidney. Chamberlain to Henry 2. Of which family was28 Henry Sidney, the famous Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, who by the daughter of John Dudley Duke of Northumberland, and Earl of Warwick, had Philip and Robert. Robert was honour'd first with the title of Baron Sidney of Penshurst, and then with that ofVicecomes insulae See in Barkshire. Sir Philip Sidney. Viscount Lisle, by the present K. James. But29 Philip, not to be omitted without an unpardonable crime, (who was the great glory of that family, the great hopes of mankind, the most lively pattern of virtue, and the darling of the learned world) hotly engaging the enemy at Zutphen in Gelderland, lost his life bravely. This is that Sidney, whom as Providence seems to have sent into the world to give the present age a specimen of the Ancients; so did it on a sudden recall him, and snatch him from us, as more worthy of heaven than earth. Thus where Virtue comes to perfection, 'tis gone in a trice; and the best things are never lasting Rest then in peace, O Sidney, (if I may be allow'd this address;) we will not celebrate your memory with tears, but admiration. Whatever we lov'd in you (as the best of Authors speaks of that best Governour of Britaine,Tacitus of Agricola.) whatever we admir'd in you, still continues, and will continue in the memories of men, the revolutions of ages, and the annals of time. Many, as inglorious and ignoble, are bury'd in oblivion; but Sidney shall live to all posterity. For as the Grecian Poet has it, Virtue's beyond the reach of fate.
From hence the river Medway 30 goes on to Tunbridge, Tunbridge. where is an old Castle built by Richard de Clare, who got it by exchange for Briony in Normandy. For his grandfather Godfrey, natural son to Richard 1. Duke of Normandy, was Earl of Ewe and Briony. For after a long contest about Briony, Richard (as we are told by Gulielmus Gemeticensis) in recompence for the same castle took the town Tunbrige in England. For they affirm that the Lowy of Briony was measur'd about with a line, and that he r [...]ceiv'd an equal quantity of ground at Tunbrige, measur'd by the same line brought over into England 31. But his successors, Earls of Glocester32,The Lowy of Tunbridge Leuca. Clientelari jure. held the manour (as they call it) of Tunbrige, of the Archbishops of Canterbury; upon condition, that they should be stewards at the instalment of the Archbishops, and should grant them the Wardship of their children33 [n].
From hence Medway glides forward34, not far from Mereworth, Mereworth. where is a house like a little Castle, which from the Earls of Arundel came to the Nevils Lords of Abergeuenny, and to Le Despenser, whose heir, in a right line, is Mary Fane, to whom and her heirs, King James, in his first Parliament, restor'd, gave, granted, &c. the name, stile, title, honour, and dignity of Baronesse le Despenser; and that her heirs successively be Barons le Despenser for ever. Bar [...]n [...] Desp [...] Oun [...] Lette [...] tents. The Medway35 hastens next to Maidstone, which (because the Saxons call'd it Medwegston and Meopeageston) I am inclin d to believe is the Vagniacae mention'd by Antoninus,Vag [...] and nam'd by Ninnius in his Catalogue of Cities Caer Megwad, corruptly for Medwag. Nor do the distances gainsay it, on one hand from Noviomagus, and on the other from Durobrovis; of which by and by. Under the later Emperors (as we learn from the Peutegerian Table publishd lately by M. Velserus) it is call'd Madus. And thus we see in progress of time names are chang'd by little and little.Ma [...] This is a neat and populous town36, stretch'd out into a great length. In the middle it has a Palace of the Archbishops of Canterbury, begun by John Ufford Archbishop, and finish'd by Simon Islip †. Here is likewise one of the two common Gaols of this County37; and it is beholding for a great many immunities to Queen Elizabeth, who made their chief Magistrate a Mayor instead of a Portgreve, which they had till that time;Portg [...] a thing I the rather take notice of, because this is an ancient Saxon word, and to this day among the Germans signifies a Governour, as Markgrave, Reingrave, Landtgrave, &c. [o].
Here, below the Vagniacae, the Medway is joyn'd by a small river from the east, which rises at Leneham, very probably the Durolenum of Antoninus, writ falsly in some Copies Durolevum. Du [...] La [...] For Durolenum in British is, the water Lenum; and beside the remains of the name, the distance from Durovernum and Durobrovis confirms this to be the Durolenum; not to mention it's situation upon the Cons [...]lar way of the Romans, which formerly (as Higden of Chester affirms) went from Dover, through the middle of Kent.
Hard by, at Bocton Malherb, Boc [...] Ma [...]e [...] dwelt long since the noble family of the Wottons; of which within our memory flourish'd both Nicholas Wotton Doctor of Laws, Privy Counsellor to K. Henry 8. Edward 6. Queen Mary, and Queen Elizabeth, sent Embassador to foreign Courts nine times, and employ'd thrice in a Treaty of Peace between the English, French, and Scots; and so run out the course of a long life with great commendations both of piety and prudence: as also,38 Edward Wotton, Bar [...] ton. his nephew's son by a brother, whom for his great experience and knowledge, Q. Elizabeth made Lord Controller, and K. James created Baron Wotton of Merlay 39.
Nor hath this river any other thing memorable upon it besides Leeds-castle, Leeds-castle Fam [...]y the C [...] que [...]. built by the noble Crevequers, call'd in ancient Charters de Cr [...]uecuer, and de Crepito corde. Afterwards it was the unfortunate seat of Bartholomew Baron of Badilsmer, who treacherously fortify'd it against King Edward 6. that had given it him; but afterwards had the rewards of his treachery upon the gallows. Take, if you please, the whole relation out of a little history of Thomas De-la-More, a Nobleman of the same time, which I lately publish'd. In the year 1321. came Queen Isabel to the castle of Leeds about Michaelmas, where she had design'd to lodge all night, but was not suffer'd to enter. The King highly resenting this, as done in contempt of him, call'd together some neighbouring inhabitants out of Essex and [Page] London, and gave orders to besiege the Castle. Bartholo mew de Badilsmer was he who own'd it; and having left his wife and sons in it, was gone with the rest of the Barons to spoil the estate of Hugh De-Spenser. The besieg'd in the mean time despairing of succour, the Barons with their Associates came as far as Kingston, and by the mediation of the Bishops of Canterbury and London, and the Earl of Pembroke, petition'd the King to raise the Siege, promising to surrender the Castle after the next Parliament. But the King considering that the besieg'd could not hold out, and moreover, incens'd with their contumacy, would not listen to the petition of the Barons. After they had betook themselves to other parts, he gain'd the Castle, tho' with no small difficulty; the rest of them that were in it he hang'd, and sent his wife and sons to the Tower of London.
Thus the Medway, after it has receiv'd the little river Len, passes through fruitful Corn-fields, and by Allington-Castle (where Tho. Wiat senior, a most learned Knight, [...]ford. rebuilt a fair house40) to Ailesford in Saxon Eaglesforð, call'd by Henry Huntingdon Elstre, by Ninnius Epifford; who also has told us, that 'twas call'd Saissenaeg-haibail by the Britains, because of the Saxons being conquer'd there; as others have in the same sense call'd it Anglesford. For Guor-timer the Britain, son of Guortigern, fell upon Hengist and the English Saxons here; and disordering them so at first that they were not able to stand a second charge, he put them to flight: so that they had been routed for ever, had not Hengist, by a singular art of preventing dangers, betook himself into the Isle of Thanet, till that resolute fierceness of the Britains was a little allay'd, and fresh forces came out of Germany. In this battel the two Generals were slain, Catigern the Britain, and Horsa the Saxon; the latter was buried at Horsted a little way from hence, [...]d. and left his name to the place; the former was bury'd in great state, [...]en's as 'tis thought, near Ailesford, where41 those four vast stones are pitch'd on end, with others lying cross-ways upon them; much of the same form with that British monument call'd Stone-henge. And this the ignorant common people do still from Catigern, name Keith-coty-house 42 [p]. Nor must we forget Boxley, [...]y. hard by, where William de Ipres, a Fleming, Earl of Kent, built a monastery in the year 1145. and supply'd it with monks from Clarevalle in Burgundy43: and not far from the opposite bank, [...]g. just over against this, is Birling 44, formerly the Barony of the Maminots, then of the Saies, whose estate at last came by females to the families of Clinton, Fienes, and Aulton.
On the east-side of the Medway (after it has pass'd by Halling, [...]g. where Hamo de Heath, Bishop of Rochester, built a seat for his successors) a little higher up, is an ancient city call'd by Antoninus Duro-brus, Duro-brivae, and in some other places more truly, Duro-provae, [...]rev [...]s. [...]anci [...]ble [...]sh'd [...]elfer, [...]. [...]r, [...] [...]ester. or Durobrovae. Bede has it Duro-brevis; and in the decline of the Roman Empire, time did so contract this name, that it was call'd Roibis; whence with the addition of Ceaster (which being deriv'd from the Latin castrum, was us'd by our Forefathers to signifie a city, town, or castle,) they call'd it Hroueceaster, and we more contractly Rochester, as the Latins Roffa, from one Rhoffus, as Bede imagines, tho' to me there seems to be some remains of that in the old Duro brovis. And as to the name, there is no reason to doubt of that, since beside the course of the Itinerary and Bede's authority, in an old Foundation-Charter of the Cathedral Church, it is expresly call'd Durobrovis. Only this I would have observ'd, that the printed Copies of Bede read Daruervum, where the Manuscripts have Durobrovis. It is plac'd in a valley, on some sides encompass'd45 with walls, but not very strong; and (as Malmesbury says) is pent within too narrow a compass: so that 'twas formerly look'd upon as a Castle rather than a City; for Bede calls it Castellum Cantuariorum, i.e. the castle of the Kentish men. But now it runs out with large suburbs towards west, east, and south. It has had a great many misfortunes. In the year of our Lord 676. it was destroy'd by Aethelred the Mercian, and after that more than once plunder'd by the Danes. Aethelbert, King of Kent, built a stately Church in it, and adorn'd it with an Episcopal See, making Justus first Bishop of it; but when this Church was decay'd with age, Gundulphus46 repair'd it about the year 1080. and thrusting out the Priests, put the Monks in their stead; who too are now ejected, and a Dean, with 6 Prebendaries and Scholars, fill their places. Near the Church, there hangs over the river a Castle, fortify'd pretty well both by art and nature, which the common opinion affirms to have been built by Odo, Bishop of Bayeux and Earl of Kent. But without all doubt, William 1. was founder of it. For we read thus in Domesday, The Bishop of Rovecester holds in Elesforde for exchange of the ground upon which the castle stands. 'Tis certain however, that Bishop Odo, depending upon an uncertain turn of affairs, held this against William Rufus47; and that at last, for want of provisions, he did not only surrender it, but was degraded too, and quitted the Kingdom. But as to the repairing of the castle, take this out of the Textus Roffensis. Textus Roffensis; an ancient MS. book of that Church. When William 2. would not confirm the gift of Lanfranck, of the mannour of Hedenham in the County of Buckingham, to the Church of Rochester; unless Lanfranck, and Gundulph Bp. of Rochester, would give the King 100 l. ofCentum libras Denariorum. Deniers: At last, by the intercession of 48 Rob. Fitz-Hammon and Henry Earl of Warwick, the King yielded, that instead of the money which he demanded for a Grant of the mannour, Bishop Gundulph (because he was well vers'd in Architecture and Masonry) should build for him the Castle of Rochester, all of stone, and at his own proper charges. At length, when the Bishops, tho' with some difficulty, were brought to a compliance, Bishop Gundulph built the castle entirely at his own cost. And a little while after, K. Henry 1. (as Florence of Worcester has it) granted to the Church of Canterbury and the Archbishops, the custody and Constableship of it for ever; and liberty to build a tower for themselves within it. Since which time it has suffer'd one or two sieges; but then especially, when the Barons wars alarm'd all England, and Simon de Montefort 49 vigo [...]ously assaulted it, tho' in vain, and cut down the wooden bridge. Instead of which, a curious arch'd stone bridge was afterwards built with money rais'd out of the French spoils, by John Cobham 50, and Robert Call'd Canolius by the French. Knowles; the latter whereof rais'd himself by his warlike courage from nothing to the highest pitch of honour51 [q]. The Medway posts thro' this bridge with a violent course like a torrent, and, as it were, with a sort of struggling; but presently growing more calm, affords a Dock52 to the best appointed fleet that ever the Sun saw, ready upon all emergent occasions,The Royal Navy. and built at great expence by the most serene Qu. Elizabeth for the safety of her Kingdoms,See more of this at the end of the Additions to this County. and the terror of her enemies; who also, for the security of it, hath rais'd a fort upon the bank [r]53.
Now Medway, grown fuller and broader, makes a pleasant show with it's curling waves, and passes through fruitful fields, till divided by Shepey-Island, (which I fancy to be the same that Ptolemy calls [Page] Toliatis) it is carry'd into the aestuary of Thames by two mouths, the one whereof westward is call d West-swale; as the eastern one, which seems to have cut Shepey Shepey. from the Continent, East-swale; but by Bede Genlad and Yenlett. This Island from the Sheep, a multitude whereof it feeds, was call'd by our Ancestors Shepey, i.e. an island of sheep: 'tis exceeding fruitful in corn, but wants wood, being 21 miles in compass. Upon the northern shore it had a small Monastery, call'd now Minster, Minster. built by Sexburga, wife to Ercombert King of Kent, in the year 710. Below which, a certain Brabander lately undertook to make brimstone and coperas out of stones found upon the shore, by boyling them in a furnace. Upon the west side it is fronted with a most neat and strong castle, built by King Edward 3. and is (as he himself writes) of a pleasant situation, to the terrour of the enemy, and comfort of his own subjects. To this he added a Burgh, and in honour of Philippa of Hainault his Queen, call'd it Queenborrough, Queenborrough. i.e. the burgh of the Queen. The present Constable of it is54 Edward Hoby, a person whom I am always oblig'd to respect, and who has very much improv'd his own excellent wit with the studies of Learning. Upon the east is Shurland, Shurland. formerly belonging to the Cheineys, now to55 Philip Herbert (second son to Henry Earl of Pembroke) whom K. James the same day created both Baron Herbert of Shurland, and Earl of Montgomery.
This Island belongs to the Hundred of Midleton, so call'd from the town of Midleton, now Milton. Milton. It was formerly a Royal Village, and of much more note than at present; tho' Hasting the Danish pyrate fortify'd a Castle hard by it in the year 893. with a design to do it what mischief he could [s]. Sittingburn, Sittingborn. a town well stor'd with Inns [t], and the remains of Tong-castle,Tong. appear in the neighbourhood56. this last was the ancient Seat of Guncellin de Badilsmer, The Family of Badilsmer. a person of great Honours, whose son Bartholomew begat that Guncellin, who by the heiress of Ralph Fitz Bernard, Lord of Kingsdowne, had that seditious57 Bartholomew mention'd before. He again by Margaret Clare had58 Giles, who dy'd without issue; Margery, wife of William Roos of Hamlak; Mawd, of John Vere Earl of Oxford; Elizabeth, of William Bohun, Earl of Northampton, and afterwards of Edmund Mortimer; and Margaret, of59 John Tiptoft: from whence descended a splendid race of Princes and Noblemen60.
Next I saw Feversham, Feversham. which is very commodiously seated: for the most plentiful part of this Country lyes all round it, and it has a bay very convenient for the importation and exportation of commodities; for which reasons it flourishes at this day above it's neighbours. And it seems formerly to have made a good figure; since K. Aethelstan held a Meeting here of the Wise men of the Kingdom, and enacted Laws, in the year of our Redemption 903. and that Stephen who usurp'd the Crown of England, built a Monastery for Cluniacks, wherein himself, his wife Mawd, and his son Eustace were all bury'd [u]. Near this place (as also in other parts of the County) they discover here and there pits of great depth; which tho' narrow at the top, yet more inward are very capacious, having as it were distinct chambers, with their pillars of Chalk.To what end the pits in Kent might be made. Several opinions have been broach'd about them. For my part, I have nothing to offer as my own conjecture; unless they were those pits out of which the Britains digg'd white chalk to manure their ground, as they are mention'd by Pliny. For (says he) they us'd to sink pits a hundred foot deep, narrow at the mouth, but within, of a great compass: and just such are those very pits we describe; nor are they met with any where but in chalky grounds. Unless some imagine, that the English-Saxons might digg such holes for the same uses the Germans did, from whom they were descended. They were wont (says Tacitus) to digg holes under ground, and to overlay them with great quantities of dung; thus they prov'd a refuge against winter, and a garner for their corn; for the bitterness of the cold is allay'd by such places. And if at any time the enemy should surprise them, he plunders only what's open and expos'd; the secret corners and pits being either altogether unknown, or safe upon this account, that they are to be sought for.
From thence, upon an open shore abounding with shell-fish, and particularly oysters (of which the pits are very common) we see Reculver, Reculve [...] in Saxon Reaculf, but formerly by the Romans and Britains Regulbium, Rega [...]. as 'tis call'd in the Notitia; which tells us that the Tribune of the first Cohort of the Vetasians lay here in garrison, under the Count of the Saxon shore61, (for so in those times were the sea-coasts hereabouts stil'd.) And it justifies this it's Antiquity byl the coyns of Roman Empe [...]ors that are dugg up in it. Aethelberht King of Kent, when he gave Canterbury to Austin the Monk, built here a palace for himself; Basso a Saxon adorn'd it with a Monastery, out of which Brightwald, the eight in the See of Canterbury, was call'd to be Archbishop. Whereupon, it was from the Monastery call'd also Raculfminster, when Edred brother to Edmund the Elder, gave it to Christ-Church in Canterbury.m At this day, 'tis nothing but a little Country village, and the small reputation it has, is deriv'd62 from that Monastery, the towers whereof in the form of Pyramids, are of use to sea-men for the avoiding of sands and shelves in the mouth of the Thames.Ha [...]r [...]a [...] J [...]. H. [...] in ma [...]g. For as a certain Poët has it in his Philippeis:
Now we are come to the Isle of Tanet, divided from the Continent by the small chanel of the river Stour, by Bede called Wantsum; Stour [...] which is made up of two different rivers in that woody tract nam'd the Weald. So soon as it gets into one chanel, it visits Ashford and Wy, noted market-towns, but small. Both of them had their College of Priests; that at the latter, built by John Kemp Archbishop of Canterbury, a native of the place [x]; and the other by Sir R. Fogg Knight. Wy had a peculiar Well also, into which God was mov'd to infuse a wonderful virtue by the Prayers of63 a certain Norman Monk, if we may believe Roger Hoveden, Pag. 45 [...]. whom I would by all means recommend you to, if you are an admirer of Miracles64. Next is Chilham, Chilham or as others call it Julham, where is the rubbish of an ancient Castle, which one Fulbert of Dover is said to have built;Fulbert of Dover. which family soon ended in a female heir, marry'd to Richard, natural son of King John, to whom she brought this castle and very large possessions. He had two daughters by her, Lora, wife of William Marmion; and Isabel, wife of David de Strathbolgy Earl of Athole in Scotland65, and mother to that John Earl of Athole, 1306 who having been sentenc'd for repeated treasons, (to make him conspicuous in proportion to the nobility of his birth) was hang'd at London upon a gallows 50 foot high, taken down when half-dead, and beheaded, and the trunk of his [Page 197-198] body thrown into the fire; a punishment too inhumane, and but very seldom made use of in this kingdom. Upon this his goods being confiscate, King Edward the first frankly gave this Castle with the Hundred of Felebergh to66 Bartholomew de Badilsmer; but he too within a short time forfeited both of them for Treason, as I observed but just now.
'Tis a current report among the Inhabitants that Julius Caesar encampt here in his second expedition against the Britains, and that thence it was call'd Julham, as if one should say Julius's station or house; and if I mistake not, they have truth on their side. For Caesar himself tells us, that after he had march'd by night 12 miles from the shore, he first encounter'd the Britains upon a River, and after he had beat them into the woods, that he encamp'd there; where the Britains having cut down a great number of trees, were posted in a place wonderfully fortify'd both by nature and art. Now this place is exactly twelve miles from the sea-coast, nor is there e're a river between; so that of necessity his first march must have been hither; where he kept his men encamp'd for ten days, till he had refitted his fleet shatter'd very much by a tempest, and got it to shore. Below this town is a green barrow, said to be the burying place of one Jul-Laber many ages since; who some will tell you was a Giant, others a Witch. For my own part, imagining all along that there might be something of real Antiquity couch'd under that name, I am almost perswaded that Laberius Durus the Tribune,Liberius D [...]rus the Tribune. slain by the Britains in their march from the Camp we spoke of, was buried here; and that from him the Barrow was call'd Jul-laber [y].
At five miles distance from hence, the Stour dividing it's chanel, runs with a violent current to Durovernum, Durover [...]m. the chief City of this County, to which it gives the name; for Durwhern signifies in British a rapid river. It is call'd by Ptolemy, instead of Durovernum, Darvernum; by Bede and others, Dorobernia; by the Saxons Cant-ƿara-byrig, i.e. the City of the people of Kent; by Ninnius and the Britains Caer Kent, i.e. the City of Kent; by us Canterbury, Canterbury and by the Latins Cantuaria. A very ancient City, and no doubt famous in the times of the Romans. Not very large (as Malmesbury says67) nor very little; famous for it's situation, for the fatness of the neighbouring soil, for the walls enclosing it being entire, for it's convenience for water and wood; and besides, by reason of the nearness of the Sea it has fish in abundance. While the Saxon Heptarchy flourish'd, it was the Capital city of the Kingdom of Kent, and the seat of their Kings; till King Ethelbert gave it with the Royalties to Austin 68,Austin the English Apostle. consecrated Archbishop of the English nation; who here fix'd a seat for himself and Successors. And tho' the Metropolitan-dignity with the honour of the Pall (this was a Bishop's vestment,What a Pal. is. going over the shoulders, made of a sheep's skin, in memory of him who sought the Lost sheep, and when he had found it, lay'd it on his shoulders; embroider'd with Crosses, and taken off the body or coffin of S. Peter) were settl'd at London by S. Gregory, Pope; yet for the honour of S. Augustine it was remov'd hither. For Kenulfus King of the Mercians writes thus to Pope Leo.An. [...]93. Because Augustine of blessed memory (who first preach'd the word of God to the English nation, and gloriously presided over the Churches of Saxony in the city of Canterbury) is now dead, and his body bury'd in the Church of S. Peter, Prince of the Apostles (which his Successor Laurentius consecrated;) it seemeth good to all the wise men of our nation, that that city should have the Metropolitan honour, where his body is bury'd who planted the true faith in those parts. But whether the Archiepiscopal See and Metropolitical Dignity of our nation, were settl'd here by the authority of the Wise men i.e. (to speak agreeably to our present times) by authority of Parliament; or by Austin himself in his life time, as others would have it: 'tis certain that the Popes immediately succeeding, fixt it so firm, that they decreed an Anathema and hell-fire to any one that should presume to remove it. From that time 'tis incredible how it has flourisht, both by reason of the Archiepiscopal dignity, and also of a School which Theodore the seventh Archbishop founded there. And tho' it was shatter'd in the Danish wars, and has been several times almost quite destroy'd by the casualties of fire, yet it always rose again with greater beauty.
After the coming in of the Normans, when William Rufus (as 'tis in the Register of S. Augustine's Abby) gave the City of Canterbury entirely to the Bishops, which they had formerly held only by courtesie; what by the name of Religion, and bounty of it's Prelates (especially of Simon Sudbury, who repair'd the walls,) it did not only recruit, but altogether on a sudden rose up to that splendour, as even for the beauty of it's private buildings to be equal to any city in Britain; but for the magnificence of it's Churches, and their number, exceeds even the best of them. Amongst these there are two peculiarly eminent, Christs and S. Austin's, both for Benedictine Monks As for Christ-Church, 'tis in the very heart of the City, and rises up with so much Majesty, that it imprints a sort of a Religious veneration at a distance. The same Austin I spoke of, repair'd this Church, which (as Bede tells us) had formerly been built by the Romans that were Christians: he dedicated it to Christ, and it became a See for his Successors, which 73 Archbishops have now in a continu'd series been possess'd of. Of whom, Lanfrank and William Corboyl, when that more ancient fabrick was burnt down, rais'd the upper part of the Church to that Majesty wherewith it now appears; as their Successors did the lower part: both done at great charges, to which the pious superstition of former ages contributed. For numbers of all sorts, both highest, middle, and lowest quality, flock'd hither with large offerings, to visit the Tomb of T. Becket Archbishop. He was slain in this Church by the Courtiers, for opposing the King too resolutely and warmly by asserting the Liberties of the Church; was register'd on that account by the Pope in the Kalendar of Martyrs, had divine honours pay'd him, and was so loaded with rich offerings, that gold was one of the vilest Treasures of his Shrine. All (says Erasmus, who was an eye-witness) shin'd, sparkl'd, glitter'd with rare and very large jewels; and even in the whole Church appear'd a profuseness above that of Kings n. So that the name of Christ [to whom it was dedicated] was almost quite laid aside for that of S. Thomas. Nor was it so much fam'd for any other thing as the memory and burial of this man, tho' it has some other tombs that may deservedly be boasted of, particularly, Edward Prince of Wales, sirnam'd the Black (a heroe for his valour in war a downright miracle,) and Henry 4. that potent King of England. But King Henry 8. dispers'd all this wealth that had been so long in gathering, and drove out the Monks; in lieu whereof this Christ-Church has a Dean, Archdeacon, 12 Prebendaries, and 6 Preachers, whose business it is to sow the word of God in the neighbouring places. It had another Church below the city to the East; which disputed preeminence with this,St. Augustine's commonly St. Austen's. known by the name of S. Austin's, because S. Austin himself and K. Ethelbert by his advice, founded it to the honour of S. Peter and S. Paul, for a burying place both to the Kings of Kent and the Archbishops, (for it was not then lawful to bury in Cities:) it was richly endow'd, and the Abbot there had a Mint granted him, and the Privilege of coyning money. Now, as the greatest part of it lyes in its own ruines, and the rest is turn'd into a house for the King, any one that beholds it may easily apprehend what it has been. Austin himself was bury'd in the Porch of it, and (as Thomas Spot has told us) with this Epitaph:
But Bede,o who is better authority, assures us, that he had over him this much more ancient Inscription, ‘HIC REQVIESCIT DOMINVS AVGVSTINVS DOROVERNENSIS ARCHIEPISCOPVS PRIMVS, QVI OLIM HVC A BEATO GREGORIO ROMANAE VRBIS PONTIFICE DIRECTVS, ET A DEO OPERATIONE MIRACVLORVM SVFFVLTVS, ET ETHELBERTHVM REGEM AC GENTEM ILLIVS AB IDOLORVM CVLTV AD FIDEM CHRISTI PERDVXIT, ET COMPLETIS IN PACE DIEBVS OFFICII SVI DEFVNCTVS EST SEPTIMO KALENDAS IVNIAS, EODEM REGE REGNANTE.’
That is,
Here resteth S. Augustine the first Archbishop of Canterbury, who being formerly dispatch'd hither by the blessed Gregory, Bishop of Rome, and supported of God by the working of miracles; both drew Ethelberht with his kingdom from the worship of Idols to the faith of Christ; and also having fulfill'd the days of his Office, dy'd on the 7th of the Kalends of June, in the same King's reign.
With him there were bury'd in the same porch the six Archbishops that immediately succeeded; and in honour of the whole seven, namely, Austin, Laurentius, Mellitus, Justus, Honorius, Deus-dedit, and Theodosius, were those verses engraven in marble.
It will not be very material to take notice of another Church near this, which (as Bede has it) was built by the Romans, and dedicated to S. Martin; and in which (before the coming of Austin) Bertha, of the blood Royal of the Franks, and wife of Ethelbert, was us'd to have divine Service celebrated, according to the Christian Religion. As to the Castle, which appears on the southside of the City with it's decay'd bulwarks, since it does not seem to be of any great Antiquity, I have nothing memorable to say of it; but only, that it was built by the Normans. Of the dignity of the See of Canterbury, which was formerly very great, I shall only say thus much; that as in former ages, under the Hierarchy of the Church of Rome, the Archbishops of Canterbury were Primates of all England, Legates of the Pope, and (as Pope Urban 2. express'd it) as it were, Patriarchs of another world; so when the Pope's Authority was thrown off, it was decreed by a Synod held in the year 1534. that laying aside that title,Primate and Metropolitan of all England. they should be stil'd Primates and Metropolitans of all England. This dignity was lately possess'd by the most reverend Father in God, John Whitgift; who, having consecrated his whole life to God, and his utmost endeavours to the service of the Church, dy'd in the year 1604. extremely lamented by all good men. He was succeeded by Richard Bancroft, a man of singular courage and prudence in matters relating to the establishment of the Church. Canterbury is 51 degrees, 16 minutes in Latitude; and 24 degrees, 51 minutes in Longitude [xx].
After Stour has gather'd it's waters into one chanel, it runs by Hackington, Hackington. where Lora Countess of Leicester, a very honorable Lady in her time, quitting the pleasures of the world, sequester'd her self from all commerce with it, to have her time entire for the service of God. At which time, Baldwin, Archbishop of Canterbury, began a Church in this place to the honour of S. Stephen, and Thomas of Canterbury; but the Authority of the Pope prohibiting it, for fear it should tend to the prejudice of the Monks of Canterbury, he let his design fall. However, from that time the place has kept the name of S. Stephens; S. Stephens and Sir Roger Manwood Knight, Lord chief Baron of the Exchequer, a person of great knowledge in our Common Law (to whose munificence the poor inhabitants are very much indebted) was lately it's greatest ornament; nor is his son Sir Peter Manwood, Knight of the Bath, a less honour to it at this day; whom I could not but mention with this respect and deference, since he is an encourager of virtue, learning, and learned men. From hence the Stour, by Fordich Fordich. (which in Domesday-book is call'd the little burrough of Forewich) famous for it's excellent trouts, passes on to Sturemouth, 69 where it divides it's waters into two chanels, and leaving that name, is call'd Wantsume, and makes the Isle of Thanet I le [...] T [...] net. on the west and south sides, which on other parts is wash'd by the sea. Solinus nam'd this Athanaton, and in other Copies Thanaton; the Britains Inis Ruhin (as Asser witnesses,) possibly for Rhutupin, from the City Rhutupium hard by; the Saxons Tanet and Tanetland; and we Tenet. Tene [...]. The soil is all a white chalk, very fruitful in corn and grass; 'tis in length 8 miles, and 4 in breadth; and was look'd upon formerly to have some six hundred Wh [...] in [...] call'd H [...] c [...] ( [...]s [...] th [...]g [...] [...] 10 [...] [...] was in L [...] tin t [...] ly F [...] M [...]. [...] Ma [...]. families in it, upon which account there is corruptly read in Bede, milliarium sexcentorum, i.e. 600 miles, instead of familiarum sexcentarum, 600 families. As to what Solinus observes, that there are no snakes in this Island, and that earth carry'd from hence kills them, experience has discover'd it to be an error. So that that Etymology [...], from the death of serpents, falls to the ground. Here was the first landing of the Saxons, here they first settl'd by the permission of Vortigern, here was their place of refuge, and here it was that Guortimer the Britain gave them that bloody defeat, when at the Lapis Tituli La [...]is [...] tu [...]. (for so Ninnius calls it, as we almost in the same sense, Stonar; andp it appears to have been a haven,) he oblig'd them to make a hasty and disorderly retreat to their Pinnaces, or little boats. In which place (as the same Author tells us) he commanded them to bury him, because he thought that might curb the insolence of the Saxons: like Scipio Africanus, who order'd his Tomb to be so contriv'd as to look towards Africa, thinking even the sight of it would cast a damp upon the Carthaginians. It was also in this Island, at Wippedfleete (so call'd from Wipped a Saxon slain there,) that Hengist routed the Britains, after they were almost worn out with so many engagements [z]. Many years after, Austin landed in this Island, to whose blessing the credulous [Page] Priests ascrib'd the fruitfulness of it; and Gotcelin, a Monk, gives us this rant; Tanet, a land happy in it's fruitfulness, but most of all happy for it's affording reception to so many guests who brought God along with them, or rather, to so many citizens of heaven. Egbert, third King of Kent, to appease the Lady Domneua, whom he had formerly very much injur'd, granted her a fair estate here,596. [...]ter. upon which she built a Nunnery for 70 Virgins: Mildred was Prioress there, who for her sanctity was kalender'd among the Saints. The Kings of Kent were very liberal to it; especially Withred, who (to make a judgment of the custom of that age from his Donation) to complete his confirmation, laid a turf of the ground he gave, upon the holy Altar. Afterwards this Island was so pester'd with the plundering Danes (who by all kinds of cruelty polluted this Monastery of Domneua's) that it did not recover it self before the settlement of the Norman Government70.
[...]e [...]eat [...] of [...] parts.Nor must I here omit the mention of a thing very much to the honour of the inhabitants, those especially who live by the roads or harbours of Margat, Ramsgate, and Brodstear. For they are exceeding industrious, are as it were Amphibious creatures, and get their living both by sea and land: they deal in both elements, are both fishers and ploughmen, both husbandmen and mariners; and the self same hand that holds the plough, steers the ship likewise. According to the several seasons, they make nets, fish for [...] Cod, Herring, and Mackarel; go to sea, and export their commodities. And those very men too dung their ground, plough, sow, harrow, reap, inne; being quick at both employments: and thus the course of their Labours runs round. And when there happen any shipwracks, as there do here now and then, (for those shallows and [...]ini. shelves so much dreaded by sea-men, lye full over against it, the Godwin, of which in its proper place among the Islands, the Brakes, the Four-foot, the Whitdick, &c.) they are very industrious in their endeavours to save the Lading.
On the south-side of the mouth of Wantsum (which they imagine has chang'd it's chanel) and overagainst the Island, was a City, call'd by Ptolemy Rhutupiae; [...]piae. us Tru [...]s. by Tacitus Portus Trutulensis for Rhutupensis, if B. Rhenanus's conjecture hold good; by Antoninus Rhitupis portus; by Ammianus Rhutupiae statio; by Orosius the port and city of Rhutubus; by the Saxons (according to Bede) Reptacester, and by others Ruptimuth; [...]bor [...]. by Alfred of Beverley Richberge; and at this day Richborrow: thus has time sported in making alterations of the very same name [aa]. What the original of it may be, is not certainly agreed upon. But since Sandwich and Sandibay, places near this, have their name from Sand, and Rhyd Tusith in British signifies a sandy ford, I would willingly, if I durst, fetch it from thence. The City was stretch'd out along the descent of a hill; and there was a tower upon a high ground, that over-look'd the Ocean, which now the sands have so entirely excluded, that it scarce comes within a mile of it. When the Romans govern'd here, it was exceeding famous. From hence they commonly set sail out of Britain for the Continent, and here the Roman fleets arriv'd. Lupicinus, sent over into Britain by Constantius, to stop the excursions of the Scots and Picts, landed here the Heruli, the Batavians, and the Moesian Regiments. And Theodosius, father of Theodosius the Emperour (to whom, as Symmachus tells us, the Senate decree'd statues on horse-back for having quieted Britain) came to land here with his Herculii, Jovii, Victores, Fidentes (which were so many Cohorts of the Romans.) Afterwards when the Saxon pirates stopp'd up all trade by sea, and infested our coasts with frequent robberies, the second Legion, call'd Augusta, which had been brought out of Germany by the Emperour Claudius, and for many years resided at the Isca Silurum in Wales, was remov'd hither, and had here aPraepositus. commander of it's own under the Count of the Saxon shore. Which office was possibly bore by that Clemens Maximus, who after he was saluted Emperour by the soldiery in Britain, slew Gratian, and was himself afterwards slain by Theodosius at Aquileia. For Ausonius, in his Verses concerning Aquileia, calls him Rhutupinum Latronem, i.e. the Rhutupian Robber:
There was also another President of Rhutupiae, Flavius Sanctus, whose memory the same Poet has preserv'd in his Parentalia, speaking thus of him;
Ausonius likewise bestows an Elegy upon his uncle Claudius Contentus, who had put to usury a great stock of money among the Britains, and mightily encreas'd the principal by interest; but being cut off by death, left it all to foreigners, and was bury'd here.
This Rhutupiae flourish'd likewise after the coming in of the Saxons. For Authors tell us, it was the palace of Ethelbert King of Kent; and Bede honours it with the name of a City. But from that time forward it decay'd; nor is it so much as mention'd by any writer, except Alfred of Beverley, who has told us how Alcher with his Kentish men routed the Danes then encumber'd with the spoil, about this place call'd at that time Richberge. But now age has eras'd the very tracks of it; and to teach us that Cities dye as well as men, it is at this day a cornfield, wherein when the corn is grown up, one may observe the draughts of streets crossing one another, (for where they have gone the corn is thinner,) and such crossings they commonly call S. Augustine's cross. Nothing now remains, but some ruinous walls of a tower71, of a square form, and cemented with a sort of sand extremely binding. One would imagine this had been the Acropolis, it looks down from so great a height upon the wet plains in Thanet, which the Ocean, withdrawing it self by little and little, has quite left. But the plot of the City, now plow'd, has often cast up the marks of it's Antiquity, gold and silver coyns of the Romans; and shews its daughter a little below, call'd from the Sand, by the Saxons Sondƿic, and by us Sandwich Sandwich. [bb]. This is one of the Cinque-Ports, as they call them; fenc'd on the north and west sides with walls: on the rest with a rampire, a river, and a ditch. As it was formerly sensible of the fury of the Danes, so was it in the last age of the fire of the French. Now 'tis pretty populous; tho' the haven (by reason of the sands heap'd in, and that great ship of burthen of Pope Paul the fourth's, sunk in the very chanel) has [Page] not depth enough to carry vessels of the larger sort72.
Cantium Prom.Below Rhutupiae, Ptolemy places the promontory Cantium, as the utmost cape of this angle; read corruptly in some Copies, Nucantium, and Acantium; call'd by Diodorus Carion, and by us at this day, the Foreland. Notwithstanding, the whole shore all hereabouts is call'd by the Poëts the Rhutupian shore, from Rhutupiae. From whence is that of Juvenal (where he Satyrically inveighs against Curtius Montanus, a nice delicate Epicure,) concerning the oysters carry'd to Rome from this shore.
And Lucan:
From the Promontory Cantium, the shore running on southward for some miles, is indented with the risings of several hills. But when it comes to Sandon (i.e. a sandy hill) and73 Deale [bbb], two neighbouring castles, built by K. Henry 8. within the memory of our Fathers, it falls, and lyes plain and open to the sea. That Caesar landed at this Deale, call'd by Ninnius Dole (and in my Judgment, very right; for our Britains at this day do so call a low open plain upon the sea, or upon a river,) is a current opinion; and Ninnius promotes it, when he tells us in his barbarous stile, thatCaesar ad Dole bellum pugnavit. Caesar fought a battle at Dole. A Table also hung up in Dover-castle, confirms the same thing; and Caesar adds strength to it, when he says that he landed upon an open and plain shore, and that he was very warmly receiv'd by the Britains. Whereupon our Countryman Leland in his Cygnaea Cantio,
Caesar's attempt up [...]n Britain. See the title of Romans in Britain.For he (to take the liberty of a small digression) having, as Pomponius Sabinus tells us out of Seneca, subdu'd all by Sea and Land, cast his eyes towards the Ocean: and as if the Roman world were not enough for him, began to think of another; and with a thousand sail of Ships (for so Athenaeus has it out of Cota) enter'd Britaine, 54 years before Christ; and the next year after, a second time: either to revenge himself upon the Britains, for being assisting to the Gauls, as Strabo will have it; or out of hopes of British pearls, as Suetonius; or inflam'd with a desire of glory, as others tell us. He had beforehand inform'd himself of the havens and the passage, not asIn his Book of Art and Nature. Roger Bacon would perswade us, by the help of magnifying glasses from the coast of France, and by Art Perspective, which plainly discovers the little dwindling atoms; but by Spies, as both himself and Suetonius witness. What he did here, himself has given us a pretty large account, and I out of him, and out of the lost monuments of Suetonius concerning Scaeva, who particularly signaliz'd his valour at Dyrrachium, in the Civil wars; and whom our Countryman Joseph, the Poet, in his Antiocheis, particularly, in those verses relating to Britaine, will have to be of British extraction, though I question the truth of it.
But as to Caesar's actions in our Kingdom, learn them from himself,Roman Britain. and from what we have said concerning them before. For it has not been my good fortune to converse with that old Britaine, whom M. Aper (as Quintilian says) saw in this Island, that confessed he was in the battel against Caesar when the Britains endeavoured to keep him from landing; and beside 'tis not my present design to write a History74
Just upon this shore are ridges for a long way together, like so many rampires, which some suppose the wind has swept up together. But I fancy it has been a fence or rather a station or sort of Ship-camp, C [...]'s ship- [...]a [...] which Caesar was ten days and as many nights in making, to draw into it his shatter'd ships; and so secure them both against tempests, and also against the Britains, who made some attempts upon them, but without success. For I am told, that the Inhabitants call this Rampire Romes-work, as if one should say, The work of the Romans. And I am the rather inclin'd to believe that Caesar landed here, because himself tells us that seven miles from hence (for so an ancient Copy corrected by Fl. Constantinus, a man of Consular dignity, reads it) the Sea was so narrowly pent up between mountains, that one might fling a dart from the higher places thereabouts to the shore. And all along from Deale, a ridge of high rocks (call'd by Cicero Moles magnificae, stately cliffs) abounding with Samphire, in Latin Crythmus and Sampetra, S [...]mpe [...] runs about seven miles to Dover; where it gapes and opens it self to passengers. And the nature of the place answers Caesar's character of it, receiving and enclosing the sea between two hills. In this break of that ridge of rocks lyes Dubris, D [...]s. mention'd by Antoninus, called in Saxon Dofra, and by us Dover. Dover. Da [...] Darellus writes out of Eadmer that the name was given it from being shut up and hard to come to. For (says he) because in old time the Sea making a large harbour in that place spread it self very wide, they were put under a necessity of shutting it up within closer bounds. But William Lambard with greater shew of probability fetches the name from Dufyrrha, which in British signifies a steep place. The Town, which is seated among the rocks (where the haven it self formerly was, while the sea came up farther, as is gathered from the anchors and planks of ships digg'd up) is more noted for the convenience of its harbour, (though it has now but little of that left it) and the passage from thence into France, than either it's neatness, or populousness. For it is a famous passage; and it was formerly provided by Law that no person going out of the Kingdom in pilgrimage, should take shipping at any other harbour. It is also one of the Cinque-ports, and was formerly bound to find 21 Ships for the Wars, in the same manner and form as Hastings, of which we have spoken. On that part which lyes towards the Ocean, now excluded by the beach, it had a wall, of which there is some part remains still. It had a Church dedicated to St. Martin, founded byq Whitred King of Kent; and a house of Knights-Templars, which is now quite gone: it also affords a seat to the Archbishop of Canterbury's Suffragan, who,Arch [...] of Cant [...] bury's S [...] fragan. when the Archbishop is taken up with more weighty affairs, manages such things as concern good order, but does [Page 205-206] not meddle in the business of Episcopal Jurisdiction. There is a large castle like a little city, with strong fortifications and a great many towers, which, as it were, threatens the sea under it from a hill, or rather a rock, upon the right hand, that is on every side rugged and steep, but towards the sea rises to a wonderful height. Matthew Paris calls it, The Key and barre of England. The common people dream of it's being built by Julius Caesar: and I conclude that it was first built by the Romans, from those British bricks in the Chapel, which they us'd in their larger sort of buildings. When the Roman Empire began to hasten to it's end, aN [...]merus Tungrica [...]rum. company of the Tungricans, who were reckon'd among the Aids Palatine, were plac'd by them here in garrison; part of whose armour those great arrows seem to have been,75 which they us'd to shoot out ofB [...]scis. engines like large Cross-bows, and which arer now shown in the Castle as miracles. Between the coming in of the Saxons and the end of their government, I have not met with so much as the least mention either of this Castle or the Town, unless it be in some loose papers transcrib'd from a Table hang'd up and kept here; which tell us that Caesar after he had landed at Deale, and had beaten the Britains at Baramdowne, (a plain hard by, passable for horses, and fit to draw up an army in,) began to build Dover-castle; and that Arviragus afterwards fortify'd it against the Romans, and shut up the harbour. Next, that Arthur and his men defeated here I know not what rebels. However, a little before the coming in of the Normans, it was lookt upon as the only strength of England; and upon that account, William the Norman, when he had an eye upon the kingdom, took an oath of Harold, that he should deliver into his hands this Castle with the well. And And after he had settl'd matters in London, he thought nothing of greater consequence, than to fortifie it, and to assign to his Nobles large possessions in Kent, upon condition that they should be ready with a certain number of Souldiers for the defence of it; but that service is now redeem'd with so much money yearly. [...]ars [...]ng'd. For when 543 Hubert de Burgo was made Constable of this Castle (those are the words of an ancient writer) he, considering that it was not for the safety of the Castle to have new Guards every month, procur'd by the assent of the King, and of all that held of the Castle, that every Tenant for one month's Guard should send his ten shillings; out of which certain persons elected and sworn, as well horse as foot, should receive pay, for guarding the Castle. It is reported that Philip sirnam'd Augustus, King of France (when his son Lewis was laying new designs in England, and had taken some cities77, should say) My son has not yet so much as foot hold in England, if he have not got into his hands the Castle of Dover; looking upon it to be the strongest place in England, and to lye most convenient for France Upon another rock over against this, and of almost an equal height, there are to be seen the remains of some ancient building. One author, upon what grounds I know not, has call'd it Caesar's Altar; but John Twine of Canterbury, a learned old man, who when he was young saw it almost entire, affirm'd to me that it was a watch-tower, [...]a [...]s. to direct Sailors by night-lights [c c]. Such another there was over against it at Bologne in France, built by the Romans, and a long time after repair'd by Charles the Great, (as Regino witnesses, who writes it corruptly Phanum for Pharum,) now call'd by the French Tour d'Order, and by the English, The old man of Bullen. Under this rock, within the memory of our Fathers, the most potent Prince, King Henry 8. built a mole or pile (we call it the Peere) wherein ships might [...]ver [...]e [...]e. [...] Sui [...]e [...]. ride with more safety. It was done with great labour78, and at infinite charge, by fastning large beams in the sea it self, then binding them together with iron, and heaping upon it great quantities of wood and stone. But the fury and violence of the sea was quickly too hard for the contrivance of that good Prince, and the frame of the work by the continual beating of the waves began to disjoint. For the repair whereof Queen Elizabeth laid out great s [...]ms of money, and by Act of Parliament a Custom for seven years was laid upon every English vessel that either exported, or imported Commodities.
This sea-coast is parted from the Continent of Europe by a narrow sea, where some are of opinion that it wrought it self a passage thorow. Solinus calls it Fretum Gallicum, or The French straits; Tacitus and Ammianus, Fretum Oceani and Oceanum fretalem, the strait of the Ocean, and, the Ocean-strait. Gratius the Poët terms it,
the Hollanders Dehofden, from the two Promontories;The strait of Calais, or Narrow-seas. we, The strait of Calleis; the French, Pas de Callais. For this is the place, as a Poët of our own time has it,
This narrow sea (as Marcellinus hath truly observ'd) at every tide swells out with terrible waves, and again [in the ebb] is as plain as a field 79: Between two risings of the moon it flows twice, and ebbs as often. For as the moon mounts up towards the meridian, and after it's setting, in the point opposite to it; the sea swells here exceedingly, and a vast body of waters rushes against the shore with such a hideous noise, that the Poët had reason enough to say,
And D. Paulinus,Epist. 2. ad Victricium. where he speaks of the tract of the Morini, which he calls the utmost bound of the world, stiles this an Ocean raging with barbarous waves.
Give me leave to start a question here,Whether Britain was ever joyn'd to the Continent. not unworthy the search of any learned man that has a genius and leisure, Whether in the place where this narrow sea parts Gaul and Britain, there was ever an Isthmus or neck of land that joyn'd them, and afterwards split by the general deluge, or by the breaking in of the waves, or some earth-quake, let in the waters through it. And certainly no one ought to doubt, but that the face of the earth has been chang'd, as well by the deluge, as a long series of years, and other causes; and that Islands, either by earth quakes, or the drawing back of the waters, have been joyn'd to the Continent. So also that Islands, by earth-quakes and the rushing in of waters, have been broke off from the Continent, is a point plainly evident from Authors of the best credit. Upon which Pythagoras in Ovid,
For Strabo, inferring what's to come from what's past, concludes that Isthmus's or necks of land, both have been wrought thorow, and will be again.Nat. Quaest. 6. You see (says Seneca) that whole countries are tore from their places; and what lay hard by, is now beyond sea. You see a separation of cities and nations, so often as part of Nature either moves of it self, or the winds drive forward some vast sea or other; the force whereof as drawn from the whole is wonderful. For tho' it rage but in some part, yet it is of the universal power [Page 207-208] that it so rages. Thus has the sea rent Spain from the Continent of Africa. And by that inundation so much talk'd of by the best Poets, Sicily was Resecta, al. Rejecta. cut off from Italy. From whence that of Virgil:
Pliny too has taught us, that Cyprus was broke off from Syria, Euboea from Boeotia, Besbicus from Bythinia; which before were parts of the Continent. But that Britain was so rent from the Continent, no one of the Ancients has told us; only those verses of Virgil and Claudian (which I have quoted in the very beginning of this work) along with Servius's conjecture,Page 1. seem to hint so much. Notwithstanding, there are that think so, as Dominicus Marius Niger, John Twine a very learned man, and whoever he was that wrested these verses concerning Sicily, to Britain:
Since therefore the Authority of Writers has left us no firm grounds in this matter, learned men comparing such like narrow seas one with another, in order to discover the truth, propose these and such other heads to be curiously examin'd.
Whether the nature of the soil be the same upon both shores? Which indeed holds good here; for where the sea is narrowest, both coasts rise with high rocks, almost of the same matter and colour; which should hint that they have been broken through.
How broad the narrow sea may be? And the Straits are here not much broader than those of Gibraltar or Sicily, to wit, 24 miles: so that at the first sight one would imagine those two tracts had been sever'd by the waves that now beat violently, first on one side, then on the other. For that itSubsedisse. was lower'd by Earth-quakes, I dare not so much as in the least suspect, since this our northern part of the world is but very seldom shook with Earth-quakes, and those too but inconsiderable.
How deep such Straits may be? As that of Sicily does not exceed 80 paces, so this of ours is scarce 25 fathom; and yet the sea on both sides of it is much deeper.
How the bottom is, sandy, hilly, muddy, and whether in several parts of such narrow seas there lye shelves of sand? For ours, I could not learn from the mariners that there are any such,Frowen Shoal [...]. exceptſ one in the middle of the chanel, which at low water lyes hardly three fathoms deep80.
Lastly, Whether there be any place upon either shore has it's name in the ancient language of the place, from a breach, rent, separation, or such like? as Rhegium, upon the Straits of Sicily, is so call'd from the Greek [...], that is, to break, because at that place Sicily was broke off from Italy by the violence of the waters. For my part, I can think of none, unless one could imagine that Vitsan, upon the coast of France, should take that name fromt Gwith, signifying in British a divorce or separation.
Those who will have Britain to have made up part of the Continent along with France since that universal Deluge happen'd, argue from the Wolves, which were formerly common in England, as they are still in Scotland and Ireland.
How is it possible (say they) that they should be in Islands (since all living creatures that were not in the ark, were destroy'd) unless for a long time after the whole earth had been one continu'd passage, without Islands? St. Augustine employ'd his thoughts about this question, and solv'd it thus:De Civi [...]. Dei, l. 16. c. 7. Wolves and other animals may be thought to have got into the Islands by swimming; but they must be such as are near, (so Stags every year swim out of Italy into Sicily for pasture.) But then there are some at such a distance from the Continent, that it does not seem possible for any beast to swim to them. If we suppose that men may have caught them, and carry'd them over, it agrees well enough with that delight they took in hunting; tho' it cannot be deny'd, but they might be carry'd over by Angels, at the express command of God, or at least by his permission. But if they sprang out of the earth, according to their first original, when God said, Let the earth bring forth a Living Soul; it is much more evident, that all kinds were in the ark not so much for the reparation of the species, as to be a type of the several nations, P [...]pter E [...]l [...]siae [...] cram [...]. for the sacrament of the Church; especially, if the earth produc'd many animals in the Islands whither they could not pass. Thus he. Nor can any thing be brought upon this subject more perfect and nice. Let it be enough for me to have propos'd it: the consideration of it I leave to the Reader; and he that sees farthest into the truth of this matter, shall have my judgment for a prying and quick man.
Over-against this place, in the Continent, were the Morini Mo [...]ini. seated, so called in the ancient language of the Celtae, as if one should say, maritime people, or dwellers upon the sea-coast. Their Country is now call'd Conte de Guines, and Conte de Bolonois; and had formerly two most noted places, Gessoriacum, and Itium, from whence, Caesar has told us,Itius po [...] is the most convenient passage out of Gaule into Britain. Most are of opinion, that it is the same with Callais; but Hospitalius, that great and learned Chancellour of France, a very excellent Antiquary, affirms Calais not to be an ancient town; and that it was only a small village, such as the French call Burgados, till Philip Earl of Bologne wall'd it round, not many years before it was taken by the English. Nor do we any where read, that before those times any one set sail from thence into Britain. For which reason, I think Itium is to be sought for in another place, namely, a little lower near Blackness, at Vitsan, by us call'd Whitsan, a word which seems to carry in it something of Itium. For, that this was the common port from our Island, and the usual place also of setting sail hither from that Kingdom, may be observ'd from our Histories81. Insomuch that Ludovicus Junior, King of France, when he came in pilgrimage to Thomas of Canterbury, humbly requested of that Saint, by way of intercession, that none might be shipwrack'd between Vitsan and Dover; implying, that then this was the most commodious passage to and again: and indeed,The s [...] est passage between England and Fra [...] this Strait is not any where more contracted. Tho' at the same time we must imagine, that the sea-men did not steer their course along the shortest roads, but had an eye to the commodiousness of the harbours on both coasts. So tho' the sea be narrowest between Blacnesse in France and the Nesse in England, yet the passage now is between Dover and Calais; as in former ages, before Vitsan was stopp'd up, it was between that and Dover; and before that time also, between Rhutupiae and Gessoriacum, Gessoriacum. from whence Claudius the Emperour, [Page] and other Generals I have mention'd, set sail into Britain. Pliny seems to call this Gessoriacum, the British haven of the Morini, possibly from setting sail thence for Britain; and Ptolemy, in whom it has crept into the place of Itium, Gessoriacum Navale, the harbour or dock Gessoriacum; in which sense also, the Britains call it Bowling long. For that Gessoriacum was the sea-port-town call'd by Ammianus Bononia, by the French Bolongue, [...] in [...]le. by the Dutch Beunen, and by us Bolen, I dare positively affirm against Boëtius the Scotch Writer, and Turnebus; depending upon the authority of B. Rhenanus, who had the sight of an old militaryThe Peu [...]enan [...]le now [...]lish'd M. Vel [...] Table, wherein 'twas written Gessoriacum quod nunc Bononia, i.e. Gessoriacum, which is now Bononia; as also upon the course of the Itinerary, where the distances exactly answer, that Antoninus has made between the Ambiani or Amiens, and Gessoriacum. But what convinces me beyond any thing else is, that the Pyrates in the faction of Carausius, are by one Panegyrick spoken to Constantius the Emperour, said to be taken and shut up within the walls of [...] B [...]il [...]. Gessoriacum; and by another spoken to Constantine the Great, his son, they are affirm'd to have been routed at [...] 5. Bononia: so that Bononia and Gessoriacum must of necessity be one and the same town; and the older name of these two seems to have grown into disuse about that time. For we must not suppose that Authors of that note could possibly blunder about the place before so great Princes, and when the thing was so fresh upon their memories82. But what have I to do with France? Those places, I must confess, I mention'd the more willingly, because the valour of our Ancestors has been often signaliz'd upon this coast; particularly, in their taking of Calais and Bolen from the French; the latter whereof they surrender'd, after 8 years, for a certain sum of money, at the humble request of that people; but held the first, in spight of them, for the space of 212 years. Now let us return to Britain with a favourable tide.
From Dover83, the chalky rocks as it were hanging one by another, run in a continu'd ridge for 5 miles together, [...]stone. as far as Folkstone; which appears to have been an ancient town, from the Roman Coyns84 dayly found in it; but what name it had, is uncertain. 'Twas probably one of those Towers which (under Theodosius the younger) the Romans, as Gildas tells us, built upon the south sea-coast of Britain at certain distances, to guard them against the Saxons. In the time of the Saxons, it was famous on the account of Religion, because of the Nunnery built there by Eanswida, daughter of Eadbald King of Kent. Now 'tis nothing but a little village, the sea having worn off the greatest part of it. It was notwithstanding a Barony of the family de Abrincis, [...] [...]k [...]ne. from whom it came to85 Hamon de Crevequer, and by his daughter to86 John of Sandwich, whose grandchild Juliana, by his son John, brought the same for her portion to John de Segrave.
From hence the shore87 turning westward, has Saltwood near it, [...]wood. a Castle of the Archbishops of Canterbury, enlarg'd by William Courtney Archbishop of that See; and Ostenhanger, where88 Edward Baron Poinings, famous for his many bastards, began a stately house89. [...], or [...]at. At 4 miles distance is Hith, one of the Cinque-Ports, from whence it had that name; Hið in Saxon signifying a Port or Station: tho' at present it can hardly answer the name, by reason of the sands heap'd in there, which have shut out the sea a great distance from it. Nor is it very long since it's first rise, dating it from the decay of West-hythe; which is a little town hard by to the west, and was a haven, till in the memory of our grandfathers the sea drew off from it90. But both Hythe and Westhythe owe their original to Lime, a little village adjoyning, formerly a most famous port, before it was shut up with the sands that were cast in by the sea. Antoninus and the Notitia call it Portus Lemanis; [...]us Le [...]s. Ptolemy [...], which being a significative word in Greek, the Librarians, to supply a seeming defect, writ it [...], and so the Latin Interpreters have turn'd it into Novus Portus, i.e. the new haven; whereas the name of the place was Limen or Leman, as it is at this day Lime. Lime. Here the Captain over the Company of Turnacenses kept his Station, under the Count of the Saxon shore: and from hence to Canterbury there is a pav'd military way91,Stony-street. which one may easily discern to be a work of the Romans; as is also a Castle hard by call'd Stutfall, which included 10 acres upon the descent of a hill; and the remains of the walls, made of British bricks and flints, are so closely cemented with a mortar of lime, sand, and pebles, that they still bear up against time [dd]. Tho' it is not a port at this day, yet it still retains a considerable badge of it's ancient dignity; for here, at a place call'd Shipway, the Warden of the Cinque-Ports took a solemn oath, when he enter'd upon his office; and here also, on set-days, controversies were decided between the inhabitants of those ports.
Some have been of opinion, that a large river did once discharge it self into the sea at this place, because a Writer or two has mention'd the river Lemanus, and the mouth of Lemanis, where the Danish fleet arriv'd in the year of our Lord 892. But I fancy they are mistaken in the description of the place, both because here is no such thing as a river, save a little one, that presently dies; and also because the Archdeacon of Huntingdon, an Author of great credit, has told us, that this fleet arriv'd at the Portus Lemanis; without e'er a word of the river. Unless any one think (as for my part I dare not) that the river Rother, which runs into the Ocean below Rhy, had it's chanel this way, and chang'd it by little and little, when that champain tract Rumney-marsh Rumney-marsh. grew into firm land. For this plain level (which from Lemanis contains 14 miles in length, and 8 in breadth, has 2 towns, 19 parishes, and about 44200 acres of land, that because of it's fruitfulness is very good for fatting cattel) has by degrees been joyn'd by the sea to the land. Upon which, I may as well call it the gift of the sea, as Herodotus has call'd Aegypt the gift of the river Nile, Peter Nannius. and a very learned man has stil'd the pastures of Holland, the gifts of the north-wind and the Rhine. For the sea, to make amends for what it has swallow'd up in other parts of this coast, has restor'd it here, either by retiring, or by bringing in a muddy sort of substance from time to time; so that some places which within the memory of our grandfathers stood upon the sea-side, are now a mile or two from it. How fruitful the soil is, what herds of cattel it feeds that are sent hither to fat from the remotest parts of England, and with what art they raise walls to fence it against the incursions of the sea; are things one would hardly believe that has not narrowly view'd them. For the better government of it92, King Edward 4. made it a Corporation, consisting of a Bailiff, Jurates, and a Common-council. In the Saxon times the inhabitants of it were call'd Mersc-ƿare, i.e. † Marsh or fenny men;Viri palustres. the signification of which name agrees exactly to the nature of the place. And for my part, I do not understand Aethelwerd (that ancient Writer) when he tells us, that Cinulph, King of the Mercians, destroy'd 795 Kent, and the country call'd Mersc-warum: and in another place, that Herbythus a Captain was slain by the Danes in a place call'd Mersc-warum; unless he means this very marshy tract. Rumney, or Romeney, and formerly Romenal, which some infer from the name to have been a work of the Romans, is the chief town of these parts, and of the number of the Cinqueports, having Old-Romney and Lid as members of it,Rumney. which (in the form above-mention'd) were bound to fit out five ships for the wars.See Sussex, under the title Cinque Ports, p. 177. 'Tis seated upon a high hill of gravel and sand, and on the west-side of it had a pretty large haven that was guarded against most winds, before the sea withdrew it self. The [Page] inhabitants (as Domesday-book has it) upon account of their Sea-service, were exempt from all customs; except robbery, breach of the peace, and Foristell. And about that time it was at it's height; for it was divided into 12 Wards: it has five Parish-Churches, a Priory, and an Hospital for the sick.An. 1287. But in the reign of Edward the first, when the sea driven forward by the violence of the winds, overflow'd this tract, and for a great way together destroy'd men, cattle, and houses, threw down Prom-hill, a little populous village, and remov'd the Rother (which formerly empty'd it self here into the sea) out of it's chanel, stopping up it's mouth, and opening for it a nearer passage into the sea by Rhie; then it began by little and little to forsake this town, which has decay'd by degrees ever since, and has lost much of it's ancient populousness and dignity.
Below this, the land shoots forth a long way eastward (we call it Nesse, as resembling a nose93,) upon which stands Lid, Lid. a pretty populous town, whither the inhabitants of Prom-hill betook themselves after that inundation. And in the very utmost Promontory, call'd Denge-nesse, Denge-nesse. where is nothing but beech and pebles, there growIlices. Holme-trees with sharp pricky leaves always green, representing a low wood, for a mile together and more. Among those pebles, near Stone-end, is a heap of larger stones which the neighbouring people call the monument of S. Crispin and S. Crispinian, who they say were cast upon this shore by shipwrack, and call d from hence into an heavenly Country. From hence the shore turning it's course, goes directly westward; and has a sort of pease which grows in great plenty and naturally amongst the pebles, in large bunches like grapes, in taste differing very little from field-pease; and so runs forward to the mouth of the Rother, which for some time divides Kent from Sussex.
The course of this river as to Sussex-side, we have briefly spoken to before. On Kent-side it has Newenden, which I am almost perswaded was that haven I have long sought after, call'd by the Notitia, Anderida, Anderida. by the Britains Caer Andred, and by the Saxons Andredsceaster.Andredsceaster. First, because the inhabitants affirm it to have been a town and haven of very great Antiquity94; next, from its situation by the wood Andredswald, to which it gave that name; and lastly, because the Saxons seem'd to have call'd it Brittenden, i.e. a valley of the Britains (as they call'd also Segontium, of which before,) from whence Selbrittenden is the name of the whole Hundred adjoyning. The Romans to defend this coast against the Saxon Pirats, plac'd here a band of the Abulci with their Captain. Afterwards, it was quite destroy'd by the outrages of the Saxons. For Hengist having a design to drive the Britains entirely out of Kent, and finding it his interest to strengthen his party by fresh supplies95, sent for Aella out of Germany with great numbers of the Saxons. Then making a vigorous assault upon this Anderida, the Britains that lay in ambuscade in the next wood, did disturb him to such a degree, that when at last after much blood-shed on both sides, by dividing his forces he had defeated the Britains in the woods, and at the same time broke into the town; his barbarous heart was so inflam'd with a desire of revenge, that he put the inhabitants to the sword, and demolish'd the place. For many ages after (as Huntingdon tells us) there appeared nothing but ruins to those that travell'd that way; till under Edward the first, the Friers Carmelites, just come from Mount Carmel in Palestine, and above all desiring solitary places, had a little Monastery built them at the charge of† Thomas Albuger Knight; upon which a town presently sprung up, and with respect to the more ancient one that had been demolish'd, began to be call d Newenden, i.e. a new town in a valley 96. Lower down, the river Rother divides it's waters, and surrounds Oxney, Ox [...]ey. an Island abounding with grass: and near its mouth has Apuldore, Apu [...]d [...] where that infectious rout of Danish and Norman pirates, after they had been preying upon the French-coasts under Hasting their Commander, landed with their large spoils, and built a castle; but King Alfred by his great courage forced them to accept conditions of peace [d d d].
Near, in a woody part, are Cranbroke, Tenderden, Benenden, and other neighbouring towns97, wherein the* cloath-trade has been very much encourag'd ever since the time of Edward 3. who in the tenth year of his reign, invited over into England some of the Flemings by promises of large rewards and grants of several immunities,The C [...] Man [...] [...] Engl [...] to teach the English the cloath-manufacture, which is now one of the pillars of the kingdom98.
Now to reckon up the Earls of Kent in their order (omitting Godwin99 and others, under the Saxons, who were not hereditary but officiary Earls;) Odo, brother by the mother's side to William the Conqueror, is the first Earl of Kent we meet with of Norman extraction. He was at the same time Bishop of Baieax; and was a person of a wicked, factious temper, always bent upon sowing sedition in the State. Whereupon1 after a great rebellion he had rais'd, his Nephew William Rufus depriv'd him of his whole estate, and dignity in England. Afterwards, when Stephen had usurp'd the Crown of England, and endeavour'd to win over persons of courage and conduct to his party, he conferr'd that honour upon William of Ipres, a Fleming; who being (as Fitz-Stephen calls him)V [...] Can [...] cuba [...]. a grievous burthen to Kent, was forc'd by King Henry 2. to march off with tears in his eyes2. Henry the second's son likewise, (whom his father had crown'd King) having a design to raise a rebellion against his father, did upon the same account give the title of Kent, to Philip Earl of Flanders; but he was Earl of Kent no farther than by a bare title and promise. For as Gervasius Dorobernensis has it: Philip Earl of Flanders promis'd his utmost assistance to the young King, binding himself to homage by oath. In return for his services, the King promis'd him revenues of a thousand pound, with all Kent; as also the Castle of Rochester, with the Castle of Dover. Not long after, Hubert de Burgo, who had deserv'd singularly well of this kingdom, was for his good service advanc'd to the same honour by K. Henry 3.3 He was an entire Lover of his Country, and amidst the very storms of adversity, discharg'd all those duties that it could demand from the best of subjects. But he dy'd, divested of his honour; and this title slept till the reign of Edward the second.An. E [...] Edward bestow'd it upon his younger brother Edmund of Woodstock, who being tutor to his nephew K. Edward 3. undeservedly fell under the lash of envy, and was beheaded. The crime was, that he openly profess'd his affection to his depos'd brother, and after he was murther'd (knowing nothing of it) endeavour'd to rescue him out of prison4; but his two sons Edmund [Page 213-214] and John 5, had that honour successively: and both dying without issue, it was carry'd by their sister (for her beauty, call'd The fair maid of Kent) to the family of the Holands Knights. For,6 Thomas Holand her husband was stil'd Earl of Kent7, and was succeeded in that honour by8 Thomas his son, who dy'd in the 20. year of Richard 2. His two sons were successively Earls of this place; Thomas, who was created Duke of Surrey, and presently after raising a rebellion against K. Henry 4. was beheaded9; and after him Edmund, who was Lord High Admiral of England, and in the siege of [...]a [...]um B [...]o [...]i. Tho. Walsingham. S. Brieu in Little Britain dy'd of a wound in the year 140810. This dignity for want of issue-male in the family being extinct, and the estate divided among sisters, K. Edward 4. honour'd with the title of Earl of Kent first11 William Nevill Lord of Fauconberg; and after his death Edmund Grey Lord of Hastings, Weisford, and Ruthyn, who was succeeded by his son George. He by his first wife Anne Widevile had Richard Earl of Kent, who after he had squander'd away his estate, dy'd without issue 12 But by his second wife Catharine, daughter of William Herbert Earl of Pembrook, he had Henry Grey, Knight13, whose grandchild Reginald by his son Henry, was made Earl of Kent by Queen Elizabeth, in the year 1572. He dying without issue, was succeeded by his brother Henry, a person endow'd with all the ornaments of true nobility.
This County hath 398 Parish-Churches.
ADDITIONS to KENT.
THE History of this County having been already publish'd in three just Volumes, by Mr. Lambard, Mr. Philpot, and Mr. Kilbourne, beside what has been done by some others; one would think that little more could be said upon the subject. Mr. Camden too spent some of the latter part of his life in this County, which gave him an opportunity of informing himself more particularly concerning it's Antiquities. Yet some things there are which have escap'd the diligence both of him and the rest, and mistakes have happen'd here, as well as in other Counties.
[a] Our Author has observ'd that this County was given by Vortigern to Hengist, on account of his daughter. But the Saxon Chronicle (which says nothing of that Rowena) shews us that he rather got it by force of arms, having worsted Vortigern in two pitch'd battles, once at Aylesford; and again at Crayford, where he kill'd 4000 Britains, and put the rest to flight. And thus the Kingdom of Kent continu'd under a race of Kings descended from him, till Baldred, last King of Kent (in our Author's account) lost it to Egbert King of the West-Saxons. He was the last of that race, but Egbert'sCaron. Sax. An. 830 Chron. Ma [...]os. p. 1. 2. leaving his son Aethelstan that kingdom, shows that he was not the very last King of Kent.
[b] At the Norman-Conquest, our Author tells us these Inhabitants made a Composition for their ancient privileges. Which, however oppos'd bySomner G [...]lkind, l. 2 & p. 63. Mr. Somner and others, seems to have some remains in their present Constitution. For how else come they to retain their custom of Gavelkind, which once prevail'd all over Britain, as it does still in some parts of Wales? and why do the Heirs particularly in Kent, succeed to the Inheritance, tho' their Father suffer for felony or murder?
To come now to the Survey of the County it self, we will begin in the north part, and go along with Mr. Camden.
[c] The river Ravensbourn runs into the Thames near Greenwich; upon which there yet remains a large fortification, the area whereof is enclos'd with treble rampiers and ditches of a vast height and depth, near two miles in circuit, which must certainly be the work of many hands, but of whose, is uncertain.Phillpot's Villare Cant p 203. Some would have it to be the Camp which Caesar made when the Britains gave him the last battle, with their united forces, just before he past the Thames in pursuit of Cassivelaun. But I can scarce believe, either that Caesar had time to cast up such a work, or that he would not have mentioned a thing so considerable, in his Commentaries.
Much rather should I think it (if at all by the Romans) to have been done some time after, when they had reduc'd the Nation into a Province, and made them stations at certain distances for the better quartering their Armies; and that this is what remains of the old Noviomagus, which must be hereabout, betwixt London and Maidstone. I know it is a little too far distant from London, and so likewise from Maidstone, the old Vagniacae (the stations on each hand of it;) being about 12 miles from London in a straight line, and 20 at least from Maidstone; whereas in the Itinerary it is but 10, and 18. Yet it much better agrees with the situation of Noviomagus, than Woodcot in Surrey See Camden in Surrey., where our Author places it: for tho' that be indeed but 10 miles from London, as the Irinerary sets it, yet it is at least 30 from Maidstone, which is so quite out of all distance, that for this (and other reasons) I rather place it here, there being no other footsteps hereabout of any such matter, that will answer it better.
Somewhat lower near this River lyes Bromley, Bromley. remarkable not only for the Bishop of Rochester's Palace, but for a College or Hospital of late there erected, temp. Car. 2. by the right Reverend Father in God Dr. John Warner late Lord Bishop of Rochester, for the maintenance of 20 poor Ministers widows, with the allowance of 20 l. per An. to each, and fifty to their Chaplain; which is the first of this kind ever erected in England; and was the Pattern whereby the right Reverend Fathers, George Lord Bishop of Winchester, and Seth Lord Bishop of Salisbury, both proceeded, who have since done the like at their respective Sees.
[d] Near the place where it falls into the Thames, lyes Depford, Depford. the Seat of the ancient Barons Mamignot or Mamigniot, whereof Walkelin the Son of Gislebert being Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports, held Dover Castle (as our Author relates it) against King Stephen; whereasPeramb. p. 125. Mr. Lambard says, he deliver'd it to him; and for that reason, after the King's death, abandon'd the charge, and fled into Normandy; who dying without issue, by marriage of his Sister it came to the Sayes, from whom it receiv'd the name of Sayes-Court, which it still retains, tho' now it be enjoy'd by the ancient family of the Evelyns; the most ingenious Gentleman John Evelyn Esq who has oblig'd the world with so many learned pieces, now residing upon it.
[e] Within sight of Depford stands the Honour of Greenwich, Greenwich. finish't by King Henry 8. and honour'd with the birth of Queen Mary as well as of Queen Elizabeth; King Edward 6. also died there; but that house is in a manner now quite demolish't, and another begun in the place by King Charles 2. which stands imperfect. King Henry 7. bestowed much cost upon the Tower or Castle, and so did Hen. Howard Earl of Northampton, but this is also now quite ras'd, and a Royal Observatory set in the place by King Charles 2. furnish't with all sorts of Mathematical Instruments fit for Astronomical Observations, such as Clocks, Telescopes, Quadrants, and a deep dry well for observation of the Stars in the day time; all which [Page 215-216] are most diligently and skilfully us'd by the learned Mr. Flamsted, the King's Mathematician. The same Earl of Northampton also built an Hospital here, endowing it with lands for the maintenance of a Governour and 20 poor men: he built likewise two others in Shropshire and Norfolk, as appears by the Epitaph on his magnificent tomb in the south isle of the Church in Dover Castle, where he lies, not interr'd, but in a marble coffin, that is supported above the marble table of his tomb, about 5 foot from the ground. The Epitaph is this.
Obiit 15o die Junii MDCXIV.
The latter part whereof runs thus in English.
[f] Below Greenwich, our Author tells us, is great store of Cochlearia or Scurvygrass,Scurvygrass. which (as I am inform'd by Mr. Ray) is not Cochlearia rotundifolia sive Batavorum, which we call Garden-Scurvygrass, (tho' that also be found in many places on our coasts, and on some mountains in the midland;) but Cochlearia Britannica, or Sea-Scurvygrass; and so cannot be the Britannica of Pliny, tho' it may have the same virtues. What the true Britannica of Pliny and the Ancients is, Abraham Muntingius thinks he has found out. He makes it to be the great water-dock, Hydrolapathum maximum, Ger. Park.
[g] The next river the Thames receives out of Kent, is that call'd Darent, which passes by Sevenoke Sevenoke. at some distance, remarkable only for a Lord Mayor of that name, who gratefully built an Hospital and School there; and for the defeat of Sir Humphry Stafford (by Jack Cade and his followers) whom the King sent against them.
[h] Then it goes immediately to Otford, Otford. famous not only for the battel betwixt the Saxons and Danes, mention'd by our Author, but for another long before, betwixt the Saxons themselves; wherein Offa King of the Mercians so compleatly subdu'd Ealhmund King of Kent and his whole Country An. 773, that he endeavour'd to transferr (as it were in triumph) the Archiepiscopal Chair into his own dominions; which he effected so far, that he got Lichfield exempted from the jurisdiction of Canterbury, obtaining a Pall for it of Pope Adrian 1. An. 766. the Sees of Worcester, Chester, Sidnacester, Hereford, Helmham, and Dorchester, being also erected into a Province for it; in which state it continu'd from the year 766. to 797.An. 766. 794. 795. 797. in all 31 years. And in that time (as Matthew of Westminster tells us) there sate 3 Archbishops at Lichfield, viz. Ealdulphus, Humbertus, and lastly Higbertus; in whose time the See of Canterbury was restor'd to it's former dignity, by Kinulf or Kenwolf also King of the Mercians.
[i] From Otford the river passes down to Derwent Derwent. otherwise Darent, giving it's name to the place; where Vortimer the son of Vortiger (who was depos'd, as Nennius tells us, not for marrying Hengist's, but his own daughter) set upon the Saxons, and kill'd many of them.
[k] Thence it goes to Dartford, Dartford. infamous for the rebellion of Wat Tylar and Jack Straw, which began here. But now of late re-ennobled by giving title to the honorable Sir Edw. Villiers, who Mar. 20. 1690. was created Baron Villiers of Hoo in this County, and Viscount Villiers of Dartford.
[l] Then it runs into the Thames, on which lies Green-hithe, where, as Mr. Lambard tells us,Mr. Lambard's Pe [...] amb. p [...] Swane King of Denmark landed and encamp'd himself; but I rather think it was up higher in the Country, at the town call'd Swanscombe, there appearing no remains of any such fortification now at Green-hithe, nor any tradition of it; whereas Swanscombe Swansc [...] seems to have taken it's name from some such matter.
[m] Below Graves-end, upon the bank of the Thames, stands Cliff at Hoo, Cliff at Hoo. on a high rock of chalk, where, according to the opinions of Sir Hen. Spelman, and Mr. Talbot Prebend of Norwich, both eminent Antiquaries, several Councils were held; the first call'd by Cuthbert Archbishop of Canterbury, at which was present Aethelbald King of Mercia An. 742; the second under Kenulph also King of Mercia An. 803; and the third under Ceolwulf his successor An. 822: upon which account Mr. Lambard, as well as our Author, doubts whether Cloveshoo were not in Mercia rather than in Kent, the Kings of Mercia being either present at them, or the Councils call'd by their authority; neither of which would probably have been, either at a place so remote from them, or so incommodious for such a purpose. Nevertheless Mr. Lambard, upon the authority of Talbot, (yet reserving a power of revoking upon better information) agrees that Cliff at Hoo must be the place; and the rather, because he finds no such place as Cloveshoo within the precincts of Mercia, altho' there be divers places there that bear the name of Cliff as well as this.
But a later conjecture seems to come nearer the truth, placing it at Abbandun, now Abbington, Nom. L [...] corum Explicat. in verbo Cl [...] shoo; Somner's Sax [...] Dict. in the Kingdom of Mercia, near the middle of the Nation; and therefore most convenient for such an Assembly. This place anciently, before the foundation of the Abbey there, was call'd Sheovesham, which might either by corruption of speech, or carelessness of the Scribes, be easily substituted instead of Clovesham or Cloveshoo, as any body, but moderately skill'd in these affairs, will quickly grant.
[n] From Cliff the Thames flows on, without the admission of any other river, till it empties it self into the main Ocean, where it meets with the Medway, which coming out of Surrey and Sussex, visits Tunbridge; Tunbridge. southward from whence, at about 4 or 5 miles distance, lye the famous Chalybiat springs call'd Tunbridge-wells, so happily temper'd with martial salt, and so useful in carrying off many radicated distempers, and procuring impregnation; that they have been frequented of late to that degree, as to cause the building of a great number of houses all about near the place, together with a fair Chapel, wherein there are prayers read twice a day during the season; most whereof being situate in the parish of Tunbridge, the whole are stiled Tunbridge-wells, tho' the Wells themselves are in Spelhurst, the neighbouring parish.
[o] Whence it passeth on to Maidstone, Maidstone. giving name to the town; Maidstone, as some think, being derived from, and only an abbreviation of, the ancient Saxon Medƿeageston, as that again from the ancienter British Caer Megwad, or Medwag, the third of the cities of Britain, as they stand numbred byHist. B [...]. cap. 65. Ninnius: wherein perhaps they may come as near the mark, or nearer (if similitude of sound be of any importance) as Archbishop Usher, who would have the Caer Meguaid or Megwad of Ninnius, rather to be Meivod in Montgomeryshire, which he would have too to be the Mediolanum of Antoninus, and not our Vagniacae, which doubtless was so nam'd from the River Vaga, and that so stil'd from it's extravagant straggling and winding, as it does hereabout. Now that Maidstone possesses the true situation of the Vagniacae of Antonin, Mr. Camden proves from the best argument [Page 217-218] that a thing of this nature is capable of, viz from it's due distance from the Stations on each side it, i.e. 9 miles from Durobrovis, and 18 from Noviomagus; but then he must not place Noviomagus at Woodcot, which is at least 30 miles distant; but rather, as I said before, at Hollowood hill.
Since the Romans time it hath also been esteem'd a considerable town in all ages, having had the favour of the Archbishops of Canterbury, who had a palace here, founded (as our Author and some others say) by Archbishop Ufford; who (if so) must certainly be very early in it,Angiia [...]acr. [...]ol. 1. p. 12. & [...]1, 119. he not living after his Election much above 6 months, and never receiving either his Pall or Consecration; insomuch, that he is seldom number'd amongst the Archbishops. Archbishop Courtney was also a great friend to this town, who built the College here, where he ordered his Esquire John Boteler to bury him, in the Cemitery of this his collegiate Church, and not in the Church it self; where yet he has a tomb, and had an Epitaph too, which is set down in [...]an. Mon. [...] [...]85. Weaver: but this I rather believe to have been his Cenotaph, than his real place of burial; it having been customary in old time for persons of eminent rank and quality, to have tombs erected in more places than one. For Mr. Somner tells us, that he found in a Lieger-book of Christ-Church, that K. Rich. 2. happening to be at Canterbury when he was to be bury'd, commanded his body (notwithstanding his own order) to be there inter'd,Somner's H. i. of Cant. pag. 265, 266. where he still lies at the feet of the Black Prince in a goodly tomb of Alabaster yet remaining.
Nor has it yet much fallen from it's ancient dignity, it remaining to this day the Shire-town (as they call it,) where the Assizes for the County are usually kept. It is also a Burrough, sending 2 Burgesses to Parliament. In short, it is a large, sweet, and populous town, and of later years render'd more remarkable, by giving the title of Viscount Maidstone to the honorable family of the Finches, Earls of Winchelsea, (Elizabeth, wife of Sir Moyle Finch, sole daughter and heir of Sir Thomas Heneage, being first advanc'd to the dignity of Viscountess Maidstone July 8. 21 Jac. 1. with remainder to the heirs males of her body;) and for a fight which happen'd here June 2. 1648. between Sir Thomas Fairfax General for the Parliament, and some Kentish Gentlemen, who had taken arms in defence of King Charles 1. and posted themselves in this town. Which they so well defended, tho' unequal in number (the streets being well man'd, and the houses well lin'd within,) that General Fairfax, with an army of near 10000 men, could not gain it from them till 12 a clock at night; it enduring no less than 3 assaults by storm with such obstinacy, that the veteran soldiers confess'd, whatever they got was by inches, and dearly bought, and that they had never met with the like desperate service during all the warLamb. [...]mb. p. [...]6..
At Maidstone (and not below it) a rivulet joyneth Medway, which riseth, saith Lambard, at Bygon, others at Ewell, in a little wood less than a mile west of Lenham; Lenham. which I cannot allow to be the Aqua-Lena mention'd by our Author; much rather should I think it to be the spring in the town call'd Streetwell, perhaps from the Strata of the Romans that led hither heretofore; which possibly too, might give name to the Station here, call'd Durolenum, Burton's Comment. [...]. the Itin. [...] 213. it having the true distance in the Itinerary from Durobrovis or Rochester according to Aldus's copy, which is 16 miles; but not so from Durovernum or Canterbury; which in all the copies I have yet seen is but 12 from Durolevum, whereas it is distant from Lenham at least 16, and so suits not very well with our Author's assertion: nor could I hear of any Roman Antiquities ever found hereabout to confirm his opinion. The distances then disagreeing so much, and no Antiquities appearing, 'tis plain there is little else left beside the similitude of names to support it. What then if we should pitch upon Bapchild, a place lying between Sittingbourn and Ospringe, the ancient name whereof is Baccanceld, afterwards contracted into Beck-child, and now corruptly call'd Bapchild. For as Dur denotes water, so Bec in the Saxon answers that; or at least the termination celd, implying a pool, will in some measure suit the old name. But what is of more consequence in this matter, is its being in the Saxon-times a place of very great note; insomuch that Archbishop Brightwald, An. 700. held a Synod at it. Now 'tis a general remark made by Antiquaries, that the Saxons particularly fix'd upon those places where the Romans had left their Stations; from whence at present so many of our towns end in Chester. And even at this day, here are the ruins of two old Churches or Chapels, besides the Parish-Church. Moreover, if the Roman-road betwixt the Kentish cities was the same with the present, then Durolevum (which by the by is only read Durolenum to reconcile it to Lenham) must be somewhere about this Parish; because no other place in the present road is of so agreeable a distance between the said Cities. Now there cannot be a shorter cut between Rochester and Canterbury, than that at present is, unless one should level hills or travel through bogs; and yet by this the distance between is about 25 miles, the same with the Itinerary, (Iter. 2. & 4.) as also where Durolevum comes between, 13 to it from Rochester, and 12 from it to Canterbury makes exactly the same number. That there are no visible remains of the old Road, may be very well attributed to this, that having been all along one of the most frequented Roads in England, and us'd probably ever since the Roman works were made, it is now levell'd with the adjacent earth, and only serves for a good bottom. The old Causey indeed between Canterbury and Lemanis does still in part remain, and is call'd Stone-street, being the common way into those quarters. But then for these 1000 years, that has been private and inconsiderable with respect to this other; and the soil too may make a difference. For that to Lemanis has a foundation all of natural rock and hard chalk, and the adjoyning fields afford sufficient quantity of most lasting materials. Whereas from Rochester to Canterbury, the soil is of it self soft and tender, and the neighbouring parts yield no such supply of durable materials.
As to it's having been a constant road, it may be thus made probable. In Bede's time the distance between Rochester and Canterbury wasPag. 116. Edit. Wheel. 24 miles, (and so some call it at this day 24, others 25.) so that it could not be alter'd then. In the 12th Century there was a Maison Dieu erected at Ospringe for the receiving Knights Templars coming into and going out of the Kingdom. AndPoems, pag. 54. Chaucer going in Pilgrimage to St. Thomas, pass'd thro' Boughton to Canterbury; as they still do.
However, I can rather comply with our Author (and be content that Lenham should pass for Durolenum) than withHist. of Cant. p. 25. [...]in. p. 179 180. &c. Mr. Somner or Mr. Burton, who place it at Newington near Sittingbourn; where 'tis true many Roman Antiquities have been found: yet being but 8 miles from Rochester, and 17 from Canterbury, 'tis altogether out of distance on both sides. But tho' no Antiquities appear at Lenham, there is a thing exceeding remarkable, mention'd on the Tomb of Robert Thompson Esq in the Church there, who was grandchild to that truly religious matron Mary Honywood wise of Robert Honywood of Charing Esq. She had at her decease, lawfully descended from her, 367 children; 16 of her own body, 114 grandchildren, 228 in the third generation, and 9 in the fourth: her renown liveth with her posterity; her body lyeth in this Church, and her monument may be seen in Marks hall in Essex, whe [...]e she died.
[p] The Medway having past Maidstone, cometh to Aylesford, Aylesford. where the Britains not only defeated the Saxons, as Mr. Camden tells us; but whither also King Edmund Ironside pursu'd the Danes, and slew many of them, and thence drove them into Shepey, where, had he not been stop'd by the treachery of Duke Eadric, he had finally destroy'd them. Here also Radulphus Frisburn, under the patronage of Richard Lord Grey of Codnor, with whom he return'd from the wars of the Holy Land, founded a house for Carmelites in Aylesford wood An. 1240, in imitation of those, whose lives he had observed in the wilderness of Palestine; Pas. de Script. p. 345. 354. where they throve so well, [Page 219-220] that quickly after in An. 1245. there was a general Chapter of the order held here, in which John Stock (so call'd from his living in a hollow tree) was chosen General of the Order, though out of the world.
[q] Hence the Medway passing by Halling Halling. (where Mr. Lambard the first Historiographer of this County sometime liv'd in the Bishop's house) comes at length to Rochester, Rochester. which is so certainly the Durobrovis of Antonin, that I need add no more than what our Author hath written already concerning it; only that it was sack't by the Danes in the days of King Ethelred, An. 839. and besieg'd by them again in An. 885. when they cast up works round it, but was reliev'd by King Alfred; and that all the lands of the Bishoprick were laid waste by King Ethelred An. 986. Of late years it gave an additional title to the Lord Wilmot of Adderbury in Com. Oxon. who in consideration of his great and many signal services done to the Crown at home and abroad, was created Earl of Rochester by Letters Patents bearing date at Paris, Dec. 13. 1652. 4 Car. 2. who dying An. 1659. was succeeded in his Honour by his only son John, a person of extraordinary wit and learning. He dying without issue July 26. 1680. the right honourable Lawrence Hyde, second son to Edward Earl of Clarendon, Viscount Hyde of Kenelworth, and Baron of Wootton Basset, was created Earl of Rochester Nov. 29. 1682. 34 Car. 2.
[r] The river Medway having past Rochester-bridge (which is one of the finest, if not the best in England) glideth on to Chatham, Chatham. famous for the station of the Navy-Royal, which hath been so far advanc'd by the Kings, Charles and James 2. (beyond what it was in our Authors days) with the large additions of new Docks and Storehouses, wherein are many conveniencies unknown till of late, and all these so well fenced with new Forts, such as those at Gillingham, Cockham-wood, the Swomp, &c. that perhaps there may not be a more compleat Arsenal than this in the world. To which add the Royal Fort of Shireness Shireness. in the Isle of Shepey, built at the mouth of this river by King Charles 2. which stands much more commodiously for the security of the River, than the Castle of Queenborough ever did, which was built there for that purpose by King Edward 3. but is now demolish't. Of this see more at the end of the County.
Which is all I have to say (more than our Author has done) concerning this fruitful Island, but that of late years the right honourable Lady, Elizabeth Lady Dacres, mother to Thomas Earl of Sussex, was enobled with the title of Countess of Shepey during life, Sept. 6. 1680. the 32 of Car. 2. since whose death, in consideration of many eminent services done the Crown by the honourable Henry Sidney Esq fourth son of Robert Earl of Leicester, the titles of Viscount Shepey and Baron of Milton, near Sittingbourn, were both conferr'd on him by his present Majesty King William. 3. Apr. 9. 1689. 1 Gul. & Mar. who hath also been since successively made Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, and Master of the Ordnance.
[s] Near this Town of Milton Milton. aliàs Middleton (now erected into a Barony) Hasting the Dane (as our Author tells us) built him a Castle to annoy the Town, the footsteps whereof yet remain at Kemsley-downs beyond the Church. This they now call (being overgrown with bushes) the Castle ruff, whither King Alfred coming against him, fortified himself on the other side the water; the ditches of which fortification, and some small matter of the stonework also, still remain by the name of Bavord-Castle,Aelfredi vita, p. 44, 45, 46. secus fontes Cantianos, near unto Sittingbourn.
[t] This Sittingbourn Sittingbourn. was once both a Mayor and Market town, now through disuse enjoying neither. But the Dane never did the town of Milton so much real mischief, as Godwin Earl of Kent, who being in rebellion against Edward the Confessor, in the year 1052. enter'd the King's Town of Middleton, and burnt it to the groundChron. Sax. An. 1052., which in all probability stood in those days near the Church, near a mile from the Town that now is, and was upon the rebuilding remov'd to the head of the Creek, where it now stands.
[u] Eastward from hence lyes the Town of Feversham, Feversha [...] where King Stephen (saith our Author) founded an Abbey for the Monks of Clugny; which appears to be true by his Foundation-Charter printed in theVol. 1. p. 683. Monasticon, taking his first Abbot and Monks out of the Abbey of Bermondsey of the same order: yetHist o [...] Cant. p. [...]. Mr. Somner, andMon [...]t [...] con Feve [...] ▪ shamiense p. 7, 8. Mr. Southouse, from the absolutory Letters of Peter Abbot of Bermondsey, and of the Prior and Monks of S. Mary de Caritate; finding Clarembaldus the first Abbot of Feversham, and his Monks releas'd from all obedience and subjection to the Church of Clugny, and to the Abbot and Prior aforesaidMonast. Angl. p. 3 [...],, are inclin'd to believe Mr. Camden mistaken, and that the Abbot and Monks of Feversham (pursuant to their absolution) presently took upon them the rule and habit of S. Bennet: notwithstanding it is clear they were still esteem'd of the order of Clugny for several years after; as farther appears by the Confirmation-Charters of King Henry 2. King John, and Henry 3. all printed in theIbid. p. 687, 688, 689. Monasticon; and by the Bulls of Pope Innocent 3. Gregory 10. and Boniface 9. all in aMS. im [...] Munimer [...] Eccles: Christi Cantuar. MS. book in Christ-Church Canterbury. So that I guess the mistake must rather lye on Mr. Somner's and Mr. Southouse's side than our Author's, the absolutory Letters in all probability tending only to their absolution from those particular Houses making any claim upon them, and not from the order it self: though it cannot be deny'dMona [...]. Angl. [...]. p. 417. but that the Abbot and Monks of Reading were at first Cluniacs, and after became Benedictines, as perhaps these might do some years after their first foundation. And thus much for the Ecclesiastical state of this Town.
As for Secular matters, it has been lately honour'd by giving title to Sir George Sands of Lees Court in this County, Knight of the Bath, who in consideration of his faithful services to King Charles 1. was by King Charles 2. advanced to the degree and dignity of a Baron of this Realm, by the title of Baron of Throwley, as also of Viscount Sands of Lees Court, and Earl of Feversham, by Letters Patents bearing date at Westminster April 8. 28 Car. 2. which he was only to enjoy for term of life; with remainder to Lewis Lord Duras Marquess of Blanquefort in France, and Baron of Holdenby in England, who marrying the Lady Mary, eldest daughter of the said George Earl of Feversham, who dyed Apr. 16. 1677. the said Lord Duras being naturalized by Act of Parliament An. 1665. succeeded his Father-in-law in all his titles, and is now Earl of Feversham Dudg. [...] vol. 2. p. [...]1 [...].
[w] From above Feversham the shore runneth on to Regulbium or Raculfcester, now Reculver, Recul [...] Regu [...] the first Roman Watch-tower that comes in our way. These Castles or Watch-towers being usually built upon the hghest ground near the place where 'twas thought convenient they should be set, we may conclude this stood in that square plot of rising ground, within which, after King Ethelbert's Palace, and after that the Monastery stood, and now the Minster or Church only stands, encompass'd with the foundations of a very thick wall; which for ought I know to the contrary, may be the remains of this ancient Roman Fort, it being of the same figure with the rest, that are still more perfect.
However that it was somewhere hereabout at least, the great number of Cisterns, Cellars, &c. daily discover'd by the fall of the cliff, amply testifie; together with the great quantities of Roman brick or tile, Opus Musivum, Coins, fibulae, Gold-wire, Ear-rings, Bracelets, &c. daily found in the sands. Which yet all come from the landward upon fall of the cliffs, the terrene parts whereof being wash't away by the Sea, these metalline substances remain likewise behind in the sands, whence they are constantly pick't out by the poor people of the place. And these they find here in such great quantities, that we must needs conclude it to have been a place heretofore of great extent, and very populous; and that it has one time or other underwent some great devastation either by war, fire, or both. I think I may be confident of the latter, there being many patterns found of metals run together, whereof the Reverend Dr. Batteley, now Arch-Deacon of Canterbury (a curious and skilful Collector of such like Antiquities) has [Page] a cogent proof, viz. of a piece of Copper and Gold thus joyn'd in the melting, which he had from thence.
[x] Hence our Author keeping along the shore proceeds to the Isle of Thanet, sever'd heretofore from the main land of Kent by the River Stour, upon which stands Wye a little Market-town, where Cardinal Kemp (who was born in the Parish) built a fair large Collegiate Church, with a lofty Steeple in the middle, the Spire whereof was formerly fired by lightning, and burnt down to the Stone-work or Tower, which too of late for want of timely repair, fell down of it self, and beat down the greatest part of the Church; where it now lyes in its ruins.
Hence, the Stour passes on (by Olanige or Olantigh, i.e. an Eight or Island) to Chilham, [...]ham. where our Author thinks that Caesar had his first conflict with the Britains upon his second landing, and that here it was he left his Army encamp't, whilst he return'd and repair'd his Ships, sore shatter'd by a storm; and that hence it was call'd Chilham or Julham, i.e. Julius's mansion: but I cannot agree with him either in the one or the other, for Caesar says expresly, that the place of this conflict, was but twelve Roman miles from his place of landing; whereas Chilham (whether he landed at Deale or Peppernesse) is many more. But here I do believe it was, that in his march from his encampment, in pursuit of the Britains, he lost one of his Tribunes, Laberius Durus, whose monument it is that remains there on the River side by the name of Julaberie's grave.
[xx] Five miles below Chilham is Canterbury, [...]terbury at present a City of great trade, to which the Foreigners in it seem to have contributed very much. They are partly Walloons, and partly French; the first (being driven out of Artois, and other Provinces of the Spanish Netherlands, in the Reign of Queen Elizabeth, for adhering to the Reformed Religion) came and settl'd here, and brought along with them the art of weaving silk, into this Kingdom. And this is now brought to that perfection, that the silks wove at Canterbury, equal, if not exceed any foreign silk whatsoever, great quantities being sent to London, where it is very much esteem'd by the Merchants. The settlement of the French is but of late date, only since the last persecution under Lewis 14. but they are numerous, and very industrious, maintaining their own poor, and living frugally. In the Publick Service they joyn with the Wallooms, who have a large place allow'd them near the Cathedral; and these together make a very great Congregation.
[y] The Stour passing Canterbury (which our Author has describ'd at large) runs on towards Thanet, where Vortimer overthrew the Saxons, ad lapidem tituli, which is Stonar in this Island, as [...]. [...]ps tituli. Archbishop Usher, our Author, and most others agree. But [...]rd. [...] [...]orts and [...]ts, p. 94, [...] 6, 9 [...]. [...]. Brit. [...] Mr. Somner, and after him ‖ my Lord Bishop of Worcester, seem rather inclin'd from some resemblance of the name (and the reasons following) to place it at Folkstone or Lapis populi, the present Stonar not being supra ripam Gallici maris, as Ninnius describes his lapis tituli to be; nor standing high, but in a low place, apt to be overflow'd, and therefore unfit for erecting a conspicuous Monument, that was design'd to strike a terrour at a distance; both which are more agreeable to Folkstone: and lastly because Ninnius is not express, that Lapis tituli was in Thanet, C [...]p. 45, [...] as he was in three other battles before: whence they conclude (and perhaps rightly) that had it been in Thanet, he would have told us so, as he did in the rest, which being a question too intricate to be debated here, is wholly left to the decision of the Reader.
[...]esfleet.[z] Nor is it so certain, that the battle of Wippedsfleet, was in this Island (at Ebbesfleet) near the Seashore; it looking as if the Saxons were almost driven out of the Nation again, whereas they had defeated the Britains in many battles just before, and driven them out of Kent; as is plain and evident from the [...]n. 455, [...], 465. Saxon Chronicle. But it was certainly here that the Saxons first landed, and after them St. Augustine, who brought Christianity to them. And here it was that Egbert, the eighth (and not the third King of Kent, as our Author has it) gave as much land to Domneva (in recompence of the wrong he had done her) as a Hind should run over at one Course, to build a Monastery on; which amounted to no less than 48 plough-lands, about a third part of the Island, as appears by theVol. 1. p. 84. Mapp in the Monasticon, and the Course of the Hind delineated in it. In short, great has been the reputation of this Island in ancient times, which too has been increased in these, by its being advanced to the Honour of an Earldom; the title of Earl of Thanet being deservedly given to Sir Nicholas Tufton, Baron Tufton of Tufton in Com. Sussex, 4 Car. 1. who dying 30 June, An. 1632. was succeeded by his eldest surviving son John, who by his wife Margaret, eldest daughter and coheir of Richard Earl of Dorset, having six sons, Nicholas, John, Richard, Thomas, Sackvill, and George; and dying May 7. 1664.Dudg. Bar. vol. 2. p. 454. has been already succeeded by four of them; his fourth son Thomas, a person of great honour and vertue, being now Earl of Thanet.
[aa] Southward, stands the Rutupiae or Rutupium, Rutupium. which whether it was the same with the Portus Rutupensis, Rutupiae statio, or the old Reptimouth, is a question.Ports and Forts, p. 3. 4. Mr. Somner 'tis plain would have them two places, contrary to the opinion of Leland, Lambard, and Camden: wherein, in the general, I can willingly agree with him, but can by no means think, our Portus Rutupensis could ever be Sandwich, but rather Stonar, which he himself allows to have been an ancient Port. I acknowledge Sandwich lyes well nigh as near to the old Rutupium as Stonar does, and consequently might as deservedly have assum'd the name of Portus Rutupensis, as Stonar could, had it had the same conveniencies in point of situation for such a purpose, as Stonar once had; which I dare vouch it, was the road where the ships lay that came ad urbem Rutupiae, as Ptolemy calls it, that was a little mile higher in the Country: just as Leith in Scotland is the Port to Edenbugh, and Topsham in England to Exeter. And this too was afterward the Lundenwic, or Port to which all such as traded either to London from forreign parts, or from London into forreign parts, had their chief resort.
[bb] And yet we must not deny but that Sandwich is an ancient Town, tho' daughter to these; it being mention'd (Ibid. p. 15. says Somner) in one of the Chartularies of the Church of Canterbury in the year 979. But theChron. Sax. Saxon Chronicle tells us, that above a hundred years before, Aethelstan King of Kent, and a certain Duke call'd Ealcher, overthrew the Danes in a Sea-fight at dondpic in Kent; from which time it grew greater and greater upon the decay of Richborough and Stonar, till the days of Edward the Confessor; when at the first institution of the Cinque Ports which now are, it was thought fitter to be esteem'd one of the five, than Stonar then was. Since when it has still retain'd that title, being the second port in order, and has always been esteem'd a Town of trade and repute; which of late has been increas'd by affording an honourable title to that great Seaman Edward Mountague Esq who having gotten the sole Command of the English Fleet in the late Usurpation, with singular prudence so wrought upon the Seamen, that they peaceably deliver'd up the whole Fleet to King Charles 2. for which signal service he was, July 12. 12 Car. 2. advanc'd to the honours of Lord Mountague of S. Neots, Viscount Hinchingbrook, and Earl of Sandwich; who dying at Sea 28 May 1672. was succeeded in his honours by his eldest son Edward, who is now Earl of Sandwich.
[cc.] Next is Dover, Dover. where some part of the Pharus or Lighthouse which stood on the hill over against the Castle, is yet remaining, now vulgarly call'd Bredenstone. Here the Lord Wardens of the Cinque Ports (since Shipway has been antiquated) have been of late sworn; and indeed most of the other business, relating to the Ports in general, is done here. Here are all the Courts kept, and from hence is the most frequent passage out of England into France, which has render'd it famous throughout the world; and the more, by having given of late the title of Earl to the right honourable Henry Lord Hunsdon Viscount Rochfort, Dugd Bar. vol. 2. p. 398. who on the 8th of March 3 Car. 1. was [Page] advanced to the title of Earl of Dover. He dying about the year 1666. was succeeded by his son John: who dying the year following without issue male, this title lay extinguish'd, till it was revived again by King James in the person of the honourable Hen. Jermin Esq Nephew to the right honourable Henry Earl of St. Albans, who was created Baron of Dover May 13. 1685. 2 Jac. 2.
[dd] Southwestward from hence, on the same shore, lies the town of Hithe; and not far from it, a most noble antiquity, now call'd Stutfall Castle, which, no question, was the ancient Portus Lemanis, for very good reasons brought by our Author; thoughPorts and Forts, p. 38. Mr. Somner alledges the contrary. He allows it indeed to have been a Roman Fort, but by no means the old Portus Lemanis, that lying, according to all the Copies of the Itinerary, 16 miles from Canterbury; whereas Stutfall is but 14, about the same distance (says he) that Dover is from it: wherefore he rather supposes that there was a mistake in the Librarians in setting a V for an X, and that the distance indeed should have been XXI, which sets it about Romney, the place he would have to be the true Portus Lemanis. But this conjecture puts it more out of distance than before, and 'tis a much easier mistake in the Librarians, to transpose a V and an I, which sets it in true distance again, according to Mr. Somner himself, viz. at XIV and no more. Or, to admit of no mistake in the Librarians at all, if we set Lyme (asIbid. p. 37. our Author says) at the same distance from Canterbury that Dover is, which is 15 miles, and the lower side of Stutfall Castle, where the port must be, near a mile below Lyme, as really it is; and allowing too, that the Roman miles are somewhat less than the English; we shall bring it again in true distance at XVI miles, without carrying it to Romney; which, in all probability, in those days lay under water, at least in Spring-tides: or if not so, the Marsh certainly did, 'twixt Stutfall and Romney, which they could never pass, nor did they ever attempt it; for we find the Roman way ends here, as 'twas necessary it should, since it could not well be carry'd on further, thro' a Marsh, or rather sea, 8 miles together; for so far 'tis hence to the town of Romney.
[ddd] West whereof, at about 8 miles more distance, stands the town of Apledore, upon a rising ground, which in the time of the Saxons, An. 894. stood at the mouth of the river Limene, as theirAn. 894. Chronicle tells us; whence 'tis plain, that Romney, or at least Walland-Marsh, was then all a sea; for we never put the mouth of a river but at it's entrance into the sea: now if the sea came so lately as An. 894. to the town of Apledore; in all probability 500 years before, in the Romans time, it might come as far as Newenden, where Mr. Selden and our Author have placed the City and Castle of Anderida, erected here by the Romans to repell the Saxon rovers; the sea here, in all ages, having retired by degrees. I knowPorts and Forts. pag. 104, 105. Mr. Somner rather inclines to believe, that either Hastings or Pemsey, on the coast of Sussex, must have been the old Anderida; founding his opinion upon what Gildas says concerning these Ports and Forts, viz. that they were placed in littore oceani ad meridiem: but I suppose this ought to be understood in a large sense, every thing being to be taken for sea whither such vessels could come as they had in those days; in which sense, no doubt, Newenden might be accounted a sea-town, and liable to such Pyrates as the Saxons were, as well as either Pemsey or Hastings.
Continuation of the EARLS.
The last Earl of Kent, whom our Author mentions, dying without issue An. 1625. was succeeded by his brother Charles; who by his wife Susan daughter of Sir Rich. Cotton of Hampshire, had issue Henry; who dying without issue An. 1639. the honour (by reason of the entail upon the heir male) descended to Anthony Grey Rector of Burbach in the County of Leicester, son of George, son of Anthony Grey of Barnspeth, third son to George Grey the second Earl of Kent of this family: which Anthony, by Magdalen his wife, daughter of William Purefoy of Caldico [...] in Com. Warwick Esq had 5 sons and 4 daughters, whereof Henry the eldest son succeeded in the Honour, and wedded Mary the daughter of Sir Anthony Ben, by whom he had issue Henry, who dy'd young, and Anthony now Earl of Kent.
More rare Plants growing wild in Kent.
Acinos Anglicum Clus. pan. Acinos Dioscoridis fortè ejusdem in Hist. Acin Anglica Clusii Park. Clinopodium 3. seu Ocimi facie alterum C. B. Clinopodium 4. Ger. emac. English wild Basil. This grows in chalky mountainous, barren, and gravelly grounds, not only in Kent, (where Clusius found it) but in many other Counties of England. I take it to be only a variety of the common Acinos or Stone Basil, differing in having a thicker, even-edged, or not-indented leaf. The Herb-Women were wont formerly to sell this Plant for Poleymountain at London. I suppose now they are better informed.
Adiantum album Offic. Tab. Cam. Ruta muraria Ger. J. B. C. B. Ruta muraria sive Salvia vitae Park. White Maidenhair, Wall-Rue, Tentwort. This grows in many places on old stone walls, and in the chinks of rocks: as in this County on Rochester-bridge, on the walls of Sir Robert Barnham's house at Bocton Munchelsey: at Cobham, where all the houses are covered with it. P. B. on Ashford-bridge and at Darford. Park.
† Alcea minor Park. The lesser Vervain-mallow. Parkinson for Synonyma of this gives Alcea Matthioli & Tragi, which others make synonymes of the common greater Vervain-mallow. He tells us also, that it grows in some places of Kent, but names no particular ones: Now Kent is a large spot of ground to seek out a plant in.
Alchimilla Ger. vulgaris C. B. major vulgaris Park. Pes leonis sive Alchimilla J. B. Ladies mantle. This is found frequently growing in mountainous meadows and pastures, especially in the North of England, where by the common people it is called Bears-foot. It grows also in the southern parts, but more rarely. I have found it in some pastures near my own dwelling in Essex; and therefore can easily believe Parkinson, that it may be found at Kingswood nigh Feversham, and elsewhere in Kent.
Alga fontalis trichodes C. B. Alga sive Conserva fontalis trichodes Park. Trichomanes aquaticum Dalechampii J. B. Water Maidenhair. I happened to find this plant in the cistern or conduit-house at Leeds Abbey in Kent belonging then to Sir William Meredith: howbeit I do not think it peculiar to Kent, but common to the like places all England over; tho' it hath not yet been my hap to meet with it elsewhere.
Alopecuros altera maxima Anglica paludosa Ger. emac. altera maxima Anglica paludosa, sive Gramen Alopecuroides maximum J. B. Lob. Adv. part. alt. Alopec maxima Anglica Park. Great English Marsh Fox-tail grass. In the salt marsh by Eriffe Church. P. B.
† Alsine Cochleariae longae facie nondum descripta P. B. Chickweed resembling the long-leaved Scurvy-grass. Between the two Parks at Eltham on the mud. What Plant the Authors of Phytologia Britannica meant by this name, I cannot easily divine. Some have thought that they intended Alfine longifolia uliginosis proveniens locis J. B. However, no man that I have heard of hath as yet been able to discover any non-descript plant thereabout.
† Alsine corniculata Clusii Ger. J. B. Park. Lychnis segetum minor C. B. Horned Chickweed. This is a sort of Mouse-ear Chickweed, and no Campion, as C. Bauhine would have it. In Westgate Bay in the Isle of Thanet P. B. I do not believe that ever it grew there, unless in some garden, or of seed accidentally shed. Its natural place is in Spain among corn.
The same Authors of Phyt. Brit. tell us, that Anchusa lutea is also to be found in the same Isle: I believe as much as the former.
Anagallis aquatica rotundifolia Ger. aquat. rotundifolia non crenata C. B. aquat. 3. Lobelii, folio subrotundo non crenato Park. Samolus valerandi J. B. Round-leaved Water-Pimpernell. This herb growing in many watery and marsh grounds, and about little rivulets and springs in most Counties of England, I should not have mentioned as a peculiar of Kent, but that it is no very common plant, and others have assigned places to it in [Page] this County. In the Salt marshes two miles below Gravesend. P. B.
Anagallis foemina Ger. coerulea foemina, J. B. terrestris coeruleo flore. C. B. Park. Female or blue-flower'd Pimpernell. This may likely enough be found in Rumney-marsh, as Parkinson tells us. We have observed it among the corn in other places of England, but more sparingly: beyond seas it's more plentiful in some Countries than the red. However, I take it to be, not a distinct species, but an accidental variety of Pimpernel, differing only in the colour of the flower.
Armeria sylvestris altera calyculo foliolis fastigiatis cincto Lob. Caryophyllus pratensis Ger. pratensis noster major & minor Park. barbatus sylvestris C. B. Viola barbata angustifolia Dalechampii J. B. Deptford pink. This is so called, either because it grows plentifully in the pastures about Deptford, or because it was there first taken notice of by our Herbarists. 'Tis not peculiar to Kent, but common to many other Counties in meadows and pastures, especially where the ground is sandy or gravelly.
Atriplex maritima laciniata C. B. maritima J. B. marina Ger. marina repens Lob. Park. Jagged Sea-Orrache. At Queenborough and Margate in the Isle of Thanet, and in many other places on the sandy shores Ger. Though I have not observed it in these places, yet I believe it may there be found as well as on the coasts of Essex.
Brassica arborea seu procerior ramosa maritima Morison. An Brassica rubra vulgaris J. B? Perennial tree-Colewort or Cabbage. On the chalky cliffes at Dover, plentifully.
Brassica marina monospermos Park. marina multiflora, alba monospermos Lob. monospermos Anglica J. B. marina Anglica Ger. maritima C. B. English Sea-Colewort. This is common on sandy shores and stonebaiches not only in Kent but all England over. The tender leaves of it are by the country-people eaten as other Coleworts, yea accounted more delicate than they.
Buxus J. B. Ger. arborescens C. B. arbor vulgaris Park. The Box-tree. I find in the notes of my learned friend Mr. John Aubrey, that at Boxley in this County there be woods of them: as likewise at Boxwell in Coteswold, Glocestershire: which places took their denomination from them.
Castanea J. B. Ger. vulgaris Park. sylvestris, quae peculiariter Castanea C. B. The Chesnut tree. This I observed in some woods near Sittingburn, whether spontaneous or formerly planted there I cannot determine: I rather think spontaneous; it growing so frequent.
Centaurium minus luteum Park. Small yellow Centory. This differs little from the common purple Centory, save in the colour of the flower. Parkinson, who alone, so far as I yet know, mentions this kind, tells us it grows in a field next unto Sir Francis Carew's house at Beddington near Croyden, and in a field next beyond Southfletechurch towards Gravesend. I never yet met with it in England; but in Italy I have found about Baiae a small yellow Centory, differing from the Centaurium luteum minimum of Columna, and agreeing in all points with the common small purple Centory, saving the colour of the flower. Vid. Park. p. 273.
Chamaepitys vulgaris Park. vulgaris odorata flore luteo J. B. lutea vulgaris seu folio trifido C. B. mas Ger. Common Ground pine. From Dartford along to Southflete, Cobham, and Rochester; and upon Chatham-Down hard by the Beacon, &c. Park. p. 283.
Crithmum chrysanthemum Ger. Park. maritimum flore Asteris Attici C. B. marinum tertium Matthiolo, flore luteo Buphthalmi J. B Golden-flower'd Sampire. in the miry marsh in the isle of Shepey, as you go from the King's ferry to Sherland house. Ger. p. 534.
Crithmum spinosum Ger. maritimum spinosum C. B. maritimum spinosum seu Pastinaca marina Park. Pastinaca marina, quibusdam Secacul & Crithmum spinosum J. B. Prickly Sampire or Sea-Parsenep. Near the sea, upon the sand's and baich, between Whitstable and the isle of Thanet by Sandwich. Ger. p. 534. That it groweth here I will not warrant, having no better authority than Gerard's.
Cyperus rotundus litoreus inodorus Anglicus C. B. Park. rotundus litoreus inodorus Lob. J. B. rotundus litoreus Ger. Round rooted bastard Cyperus. In divers places of Shepey and Thanet. Park. p. 1265.
Equisetum seu Hippuris corolloides Ger. emac. An Hippuris lacustris quaedam foliis mansu arenosis Gesn. Coralline Horsetail. Found by Dr. Bowles on a bogg near Chisselburst in this County.
Fagus C. B. Ger. Park. Fagus Latinorum, Oxya Graecorum J. B. The Beech-tree. It's common in this Country, as also in Sussex, Surrey, Hampshire, Hartfordshire, &c. Whence we cannot but wonder, that Caesar should Comm. de Bello Gallico. write that there were in Britain all sorts of trees for timber, excepting Firre and Beech. We may also take notice that the Hornbeam tree is in this Country called the Horsebeech, whence some learned men have been deceived, and induced to believe, that there grew two sorts of Beech here.
Fungus perniciosus 25tas sive Cinaraeformis Park. p. 1324. Artichoke Mushrome. At Ripton near Ashford, also on Bromley-green, and at a place in Rumney marsh, called Warborn. Park. loco praemisso.
Geranium columbinum dissectis foliis, florum pediculis longissimis. Doves-foot with jagged leaves, and flowers standing on long foot stalks. In the layes about Swanley near Derford; and doubtless in many the like places.
Gentianella fugax quarta Clus. fugax minor Ger. brevi folio C. B. fugax 4. Clusii, slore dilutè purpurascente & coeruleo elegantissimo J. B. Autumnalis Centaureae minoris foliis Park. Autumnal Gentian with small Centory leaves. Clusius in his English Voyage observed this not far from Dover. I was once suspicious that it might be no other than our common dwarf Autumnal Gentian, but I am since assured by credible persons, that there is a sort of Autumnal Gentian growing in England which is specifically different from the most common kind, and probably the same with that which Clusius found near Dover.
Gentiana palustris angustifolia C. B. Pneumonanthe Ger. Gentianella autumnalis Pneumonanthe dicta Park. Gentianae species, Calathiana quibusdam, radice perpetuâ, sive palustris J. B. Marsh Gentian or Calathian Violet. Near Longfield by Gravesend, as also Greenhithe and Cobham; about Sir Percival Hart's house at Lellingston, and in a chalky pit, not far from Dartford, by a Paper-mill. Park. p. 407. I never yet found it but on boggy and heathy grounds and moist places in Lincolnshire and Yorkshire.
Herba Paris Ger. J. B. Park. Solanum quadrifolium bacciferum C. B. Herb Paris, True-love, or One-berry. In shady woods and copses in many places; as in Hinbury-wood three miles from Maidstone, also in a wood called Harwarsh near to Pinneden heath, one mile from the said Maidstone: in a wood by Chisselhurst called Long-wood, and in the next wood thereto, call'd Iseets-wood, especially about the skirts of a hop-garden adjoyning: in a wood also over-against Boxley-Abbey, a mile from Maidstone, in great abundance, not far from the hedge-side of that meadow through which runs a rivulet. Park. p. 390. This is to be found in the like places all England over, but not commonly.
Hieracium montanum asperum Chondrillae folio. C. B. Rough mountainous Hawkweed with Gum-succory leaves. This was found in Kent by Mr. Newton, but I remember not the place where.
Horminum pratense Lavendulae flore C. B. Park. Wild Clary with Lavender-like flowers. Found by Clusius nigh the riding-place at Greenwich. This is, without doubt, our common English wild Clary. For the Horminum pratense foliis serratis C. B. which Parkinson mistakes for our common wild Clary, grows not spontaneously with us in England, so far as I have yet seen or heard.
Hali geniculatum perenne fruticosius procumbens. Perennial procumbent Shrub-Glasswort. Found near Shepey Island by my learned friend Dr. Hans Sloane.
Lepidium latifolium C. B. Pauli J. B. Piperitis seu Lepidium vulgare Park. Rhaphanus sylvestris Officinarum, Lepidium Aeginetae Lobelio J. B. Dittander, Pepperwort, Poor-mans Pepper. On a bank between Feversham town and the haven. Parkinson tells us it grows wild on Rochester Common. pag 856.
Lychnis major noctiflora Dub [...]ensis perennis Hist. nost. p. 995. Great Night-flowering Campion. Found on Dover Cliffs by Mr. Newton, who affirms it to be specifically different from the L sylvestris alba 9 Clusii: and so I am inclined to believe it may, though the description of Clusius agrees in most particulars to this.
Mercurialis mas & faemina J. B. Ger. vulgaris mas & faemina Park. testiculata seu mas Dioscoridis & Plinii, & spicata seu foemina eorundem C. B. French Mercury the male and female. It grows very plentifully by a Village called Brookland in Rumney-marsh. Park. p. 297.
Oph [...]is bisolia palustris. Bifolium palustre Park. Marsh Twayblade. In divers places of Rumney-marsh. Park. p. 505.
Orchis myodes flore coccineo elegans P. B. In Swanscombe Wood. Though I know not what sort of Orchis the Authors of Phyt. Brit. mean by this name: yet because I remember, my very good Friend Mr. George Horsnell Surgeon in London, told me, That some of his Acquaintance did formerly shew him such a kind of elegant Fly Orchis; I have given it a place in this Catalogue.
Orchis barbata foetida J. B. barbata odore hirci breviore latioréque folio C. B. Tragorchis maximus & Trag. mas Ger. Trag. maxima & Trag. vulgaris Park. The Lizard-flower or great Goats-stones. Observed by Dr. Bowles nigh the high-way between Crayford and Dartford. Mr. Watts hath since found it also in Kent. It hath not been yet my hap to meet with it.
Orobanche affinis Nidus avis J. B. Orchis abortiva ruffa, sive Nidus avis Park. Orch. abort. fusca C. B. Satyrion abortivum sive Nidus avis Ger. Mishapen Orchis, or Birds-nest. I found it in some thickets at Bocton Munchelsey near Maidston. I never observed many of them together in one place.
Pisum marinum Ger. aliud maritimum Britannicum Park. English Sea-Pease. At Gilford in Kent over against the Comber. Park. 1060. On the Sea-coast among the flints and pebbles near new Romney. Upon the beach running along the shore from Denge nesse westward. Camden Brit. p. 351. See more of this sort of Pease in Suffolk Catalogue. Parkinson makes two sorts of English Sea-Pease: The first he calls Pisum spontaneum maritimum Anglicum, and the second Pis. aliud marit. Brit. No man that I have heard of besides him hath been as yet able to discover more than one.
Plantago major paniculâ sparsâ J. B. latifolia spica multiplici C. B. paniculis sparsis Ger. emac. latifiolia spiralis Park. Besome-Plantain, or Plantain with spoky tufts. Found by Dr. Johnson at Margate in the Isle of Thanet; and by Tho. Willisell at Reculver there.
Polygonatum Ger. vulgare Park. latifolium vulgare C. B. Polygonatum, vulgò Sigillum Solomonis J. B. Solomons Seal. At Crayford, Ger. In a wood two miles from Canterbury by Fishpool-hill; and in Chesson-wood on Chesson-hill, between Newington and Sittingbourn. Park. p. 699.
Rhamnus Salicis folio angusto, fructu flavescente C. B. secundus Clusii Ger. emac. primus Dioscoridis Lobelio, sive litoralis Park. Rhamnus vel Oleaster Germanicus J. B. Sallow-thorn or Sea-Buchthorn. On the Sandy grounds about Sandwich and Deal, as also about Folkston on the other side of Dover.
Rubus saxatilis Alpinus Park. Chamaerubus saxatilis C. B. Rubus Alpinus humilis J. B. Saxatilis Ger. Stone Bramble or Rasp. Parkinson tells us, it grows in the Isle of Thanet and other places in Kent. I nev [...]r found it but among the Mountains in the North.
Salix puntila folio subrotundo, utrinque lanuginoso & argenteo. Dwarf willow with round leaves, and a silver down on both sides. On the sandy grounds near Sandwich.
Satyrion abortivum v. Orobanche affinis. In the middle of a Wood near Gravesend.
Serp llum citratum Ger. Park. Citrii odore J. B. foliis Citri odore C. B. Lemon Thyme. Between Southfleet and Longfield Downs, and between Rochester and Sittingbourn in the high-way. Park. p. 9.
Speculum Veneris majus Park. Veneris Ger. Onobrychis arvensis, vel Campanula arvensis erecta C. B. Avicularia Sylvii quibusdam J. B. The greater Venus Looking-glass. Parkinson tells us it grows among the corn at Greenwich and Dartford. I was never yet so happy as to espy it among corn. Possibly it might spring of seed, cast out among the weedings of gardens, and carried on to corn lands.
Spongia ramosa altera Anglica, S. Sp. marina Anglica planta nodosa Park. Fucus spongiosus nodosus Ger. emac. Sea-ragged staff. Near Margate in the Isle of Thanet.
Verbascum flore albo parvo J. B. Lychnites flore albo parvo C. B. Lychnites Matthioli Ger. mas foliis longioribus Park. White flower'd Mullein. It is common in this Country by the way sides.
Urtica Romana Ger. Park. Romana seu mas cum globulis J. B. urens, pilulas ferens, prima Dioscoridis, semine Lini C. B. Common Roman Nettle. Parkinson saith it hath been found growing of old at Lidde by Romney, and in the streets of Romney. Of the original whereof he tells us a very pleasant story. It is recorded (saith he) that at Romney, Julius Caesar landed with his Souldiers, and there abode for a certain time, whence the place (it is likely) was by them called Romania, and corruptly there-from Romeney or Romney. But for the growing of this Nettle in that place, it is reported, That the Souldiers brought some of the Seed with them, and sowed it there for their use, to rub and chafe their Limbs, when through extreme cold they should be stiff and benummed; being told before they came from home, that the Climate of Britain was so extreme cold, that it was not to be endured without some friction or rubbing to warm their blood, and to stir up their natural heat: since which time, it is thought, it hath continued there, rising yearly of its own sowing.
This Story hath nothing of likelyhood in it, because the Roman Nettle is found not only here, but in divers other places on the Sea-coast; nor, had it been a stranger or exotick, would it likely have continued so long, coming up yearly of its own sowing. Outlandish plants usually failing, and being lost, if not cultivated in gardens. Add hereto that Julius Caesar landed not hereabouts.
Of the Arsenals for the Royal Navy in KENT.
THE Navy of England has in all times (as at this day) been owing to this one County, more than to the whole number beside, for the Diversity and Importance of the places serving therein, to the Building, Repairing, Safe-harbouring, and Equipping of the same. Here therefore we choose to offer (under a distinct head) what has occurr'd to us worthy observation on that subject; after first doing right to our Author, in reference to the more than ordinary scantiness of his Remarks on those Places, by observing only the different States of the Royal Navy of England about the time of his writing and at this day.
The different States of the Royal Navy. | In Mr. Camden's time. | At this day. |
1. The number of Ships and Vessels, from 50 Tons upwards | but — 40 Ships | above — 200 Ships. |
2. The general Tonnage of the whole | under 23600 Tons | above 112400 Tons. |
3. The number of men requir'd for manning the same | under 7800 Men | above 45000 Men. |
4. The medium of it's annual charge during the last | ||
5 years of
| under 15500 l. | above 400000 l. |
under 96400 l. | above 1620000 l. |
Which Disproportions in the Naval Action within this Century, must have been attended with suitable Alterations and Improvements (unseen by our Author) in it's Yards, Docks, Storehouses, &c. the Scenes of that Action. And therefore proceeding to the places themselves, we observe as follows, viz.
Catham.1. Chatham. This Yard was, at the time of our Author, confin'd to a narrow slip on the edge of the river, beneath the Church, furnish'd only with one small Dock. Which becoming too streight for the then growing Service, was assign'd to the use of the Office of the Ordnance (where it still remains) while that for the Navy was about the year 1622. remov'd to where it now rests, accommodated with all the Requisites of a Royal Arsenal, and those since augmented by additions of Docks, Launches, Storehouses, (one no less than 660 foot long) Mast-houses, Boat-houses, &c. all of late erection, exceeding what had ever been before known in the Navy of England.
Here also is reposited (however unobserv'd by our industrious Author) that solemn and only yet establish'd Fond of Naval Charity for the relief of Persons hurt at Sea in the service of the Crown, under the name of The Chest at Chatham, instituted An. 1588. When, with the advice of Sir Francis Drake, Sir John Hawkins, and others, the Sea-men then serving the Queen, did voluntarily assign a portion of each man's Pay to the succour of their then wounded Fellows: which method receiving Confirmation from the Queen, has been ever since maintain'd, and yet continues.
Nor is our Author's silence any more to be overlook'd in reference to the Hospital here also erected for the like pious use, at the private Costs of Sir John Hawkins, in the 36th of the same Queen.
[...]ss.2. Sheerness. As an Appendix to Chatham, there has been also since established here, a Yard furnish'd for answering all occasions for the same upon Ships of the Lower Rates, resorting thither in time of Action.
[...]ford.3. Deptford. To the Dock and Storehouse (our Author's only Observables at this place) we have now to add, the widening the whole Area of that Yard to more than double what it then was, with a Wet Dock of 2 Acres in superficies for Ships, and another of an Acre and half for Masts; besides an Enlargement to it's Store-houses, Dwelling-houses, Launches, &c. suitable thereto, and to the greatness of the present Service.
But here we have to observe, a Mistake relating to the neighbouring College, said by our Author to have been ordain'd for the use of the Navy. Forasmuch as by a Grant 4 Hen. 8. to the Shipmen and Mariners of this Realm, they were indeed enabled to begin (to the honour of the blessed Trinity and S. Clement) a Guild or Brotherhood perpetual, concerning the Conning or Craft of Mariners, and for the encrease and augmentation of the Ships thereof: which, as the body Corporate of the sea-men of England, still continues (and this the seat of it) under the Stile of the Trinity-House of Deptford-Strond; but without the least share assign'd thereto, either of Trust or Authority, in the Navy-Royal.
4. Woolwich. Woolwich. How this, of all the places appropriated to the Service of the Navy, should come to be over-look'd by our Author, as well as by Mr. Lambert and Mr. Philpot, is hard to account for. And the more, for its having contributed to the number of our Ships-Royal equally with any other two; besides it's Right, by seniority, to the Title of Mother-Dock to them all; witness her having given birth to
The | Harry Grace de Dieu | 3o | Hen. 8. |
Prince Royal | 8 | Jac. 1. | |
Soveraign Royal | 13 | Car. 1. | |
Nazeby, afterwards the Charles | 7 | Car. 2. | |
Richard, afterwards the James | 10 | ||
St. Andrew | 22 |
But whatever that Omission is to be reckon'd owing to, Woolwich must be own'd to serve the Crown among those of the greatest importance thereto at this day.
5. Nor will it be unuseful towards the further illustrating the Disparity between the Naval Action of England in the time of Mr. Camden and now, to add here, what would have appear'd more properly in Devonshire, would the advancement of the Works we are to mention have then so well admitted it: namely, the New Yard (1200 foot square) now in erecting at Plimouth. Plimouth. Where a Dry-Dock, capable of a first Rate Ship, is already finish'd, with a Bason before it of above 200 foot square; as also Dwelling-houses, Store-houses, a Rope-house, and all other Conveniences required to an Arsenal calculated for the Service of so important a place.
DOBUNI.
WE have already gone through those Counties which are bounded by the British Ocean, the Severn Sea, and the river Thames. Let us now take a survey of the rest, according to our intended method; and crossing the river, and returning back to the Thames head and to the Severn where the tyde flows, let us view the seats of the Dobuni who inhabited Glocestershire and Oxfordshire.
Their Name seems to be derived fromDuffen, in British Deep or Low. Duffen a British word, because inhabiting for the most part a Plain, and Valleys encompassed with Hills, the whole People took their denomination from thence; and from such a situation Bathieia in Troas, Catabathmos in Africk, Deepdale in Britain receive their several Names. And I am the more easily induced to be of this opinion, because I find that Dion calls these People by a word of the same signification Bodunni, if there is not a transposition of the Letters. ForBodo what it meant among the Britains and Gauls. Bodo or Bodun in the ancient language of the Gauls, as Pliny informs us, doth signifie Deep, which language I have before demonstrated to be the same with the British: from whence also as he supposes, cometh the name of the City Bodincomagus which is placed upon the deepest parts of the river Poe, and of the Bodiontii, a People that inhabited the low and deep Valley, now call'd Val de Fontenay, near the lake Lemane; not to mention Bodotria, the deepest Frith in all Britain.
I have met with nothing in ancient Authors, concerning these Boduni, but that Aulus Plautius, who was sent by the Emperor Claudius to be Propraetor in Britain, took part of them into his protection, who before were in subjection to the Catuellani (their next neighbours,) and placed a Garrison among them, about the 45th year of our Lord; and this I have from Dio.
But so soon as the Saxons had conquered Britain, the Name of the Dobuni was lost, part of them with their Borderers, by a new German name were call'd Wiccii, but from whence, without the Reader's leave, I should scarce presume to conjecture: yet if Wic in the Saxon tongue signifies the Creeks of a River, and the Vignones a German People are so call d, because they dwell upon the Nooks and Creeks of Rivers and the Sea (as is asserted by B. Rhenanus,) it may not then be improper to derive the name of Wiccii thence, since their habitation was about the mouth of Severn, which is full of windings and turnings.
GLOCESTERSHIRE.
GLocestershire, in the Saxon tongue gleaucest [...]schyre, was the chief Seat of the Dobuni. It is bounded on the west by Monmouthshire and Herefordshire, on the north by Worcestershire, on the east by Oxfordshire and Warwickshire †, and on the south by Wiltshire and part of Somersetshire. A pleasant and fertile County, stretching out in length from northeast unto southwest. The most eastern part, which swelleth with rising Hills, is call'd Cotteswold. The middle part is a large fruitful Plain, which is water'd by the most noble river Severne, that gives as 'twere life and spirit to the Soil. The more western part lying on the other side Severne, is altogether shaded with Woods. But enough of this: William of Malmesbury easeth me of the labour, who fully describes this County, and sets forth it's excellence. Take what he writes in his Book De Pontificibus.
The Vale of Glocester is so call'd from its chief City, the soil whereof yieldeth variety of fruits and plants, and all sorts of grain; in some places by the natural richness of the ground, and in others by the diligence of the Countryman; enough to excite the idlest person to take pains, when it repays his sweat with the increase of an hundred fold. Here you may behold the high-ways and publick roads, full of fruit-trees, not set, but growing naturally. The Earth of its own accord bearing fruit, exceeding others both in taste and beauty, many of which continue fresh the whole year round, and serve the owner till he is supply'd by a new Increase. There is no Province in England, hath so many or so good Vineyards Vineyards. as this County, either for fertility, or sweetness of the Grape. The wine whereof carrieth no unpleasant tartness, being not much inferiour to the French in sweetness. The Villages are very thick, the Churches handsome, and the Towns populous and many.
To all which may be a [...]ded in honour of this County the river Severne,Severne. than which there is not any in the Land, that hath a broader Chanel, swifter stream, or more plenty of fish. There is in it a daily rage and boisterousness of waters, which I know not whether I may call a Gulph or Whirlpool, casting up the sands from the bottom, and rowling them into heaps; it floweth with a great torrent, but loses its force at the first Bridge. Sometimes it overfloweth its banks, and wanders a great way into the neighbouring Plains, and then returneth back as conquerour of the Land. That Vessel is in great danger that is stricken on the side; the Watermen us'd to it, when they see this HygreHyg [...]. coming (for so they call it in English,) do turn the Vessel, and cutting through the midst of it, avoid its violence.
What he says concerning the hundred-fold increase doth not at all hold true, neither do I believe, with those idle and dissatisfied Husbands, whom Columella reprehends, that the soil is wore out by its excessive fruitfulness in former Ages, and become barren. But yet, not to mention other things, we have no reason to admire that so many places in this County from their Vines are called Vineyards, since they formerly afforded plenty of Wine; and that they yield none now, is rather to be imputed to the sloth and unactiveness of the Inhabitants, than the indisposition of the Climate [a]. But why in some parts of this County (See [...] Ed. [...] as we read in our Statutes) by a private custom, which hath now grown into a Law, The Lands and Tenements of condemned persons are forfeited to the King, only for a year and a day, and after that term expired (contrary to the custom of all England beside) return to the next heirs, let the Lawyers enquire, since 'tis not to my purpose [b]. And now let us survey those three parts in their order, which I mention'd before.
The more western part beyond Severne (which was formerly possessed by the Silures) as far as the river Vaga or Wye, which divideth England and Wales, F [...] D [...] is covered entirely with thick Woods, and at this day is call'd Dean-Forest: some of the Latin writers call it Sylva Danica, from the Danes; others with Giraldus, Danubiae Sylva. But unless it takes its name from a small neighbouring Town call'd Deane, I should fancy that Deane, by cutting off a syllable, is derived from Arden; which word the Gauls and Britains heretofore seem to have used for a Wood, since two great Forests, the one in Gallia Belgica, the other amongst us in Warwickshire, are both call'd by one and the same name of Arden. This formerly was so thick with Trees, so very dark and terrible in its shades, and various cross ways, that it rendred the Inhabitants barbarous, and embolden'd them to commit many outrages. For in the reign of Henry 6. they so infested the banks of the Severne with their Robberies, that there was3 H [...] an Act of Parliament made on purpose to curb and restrain them. But since so many rich veins of IronIron. have been discover'd, those thick Woods by degrees are become much [Page]
[Page] [Page 233-234] thinner [c]. In this forest, upon the river, stood the pretty ancient towns of Tudenham and Wollaston, which Walter and Roger, the brothers of Gislebert de Clare, about the year 1160. took from the Welsh: and hard by these is Lydney, [...]ydney. where Sir William Winter, Vice-admiral of England, a most worthy Knight1, hath built a fair housea. But of most ancient note is Antoninus's Abone or Avone, A [...]e. and is not yet totally deprived of its old name, being now called Aventon [d], a small village indeed, but by Severn side, and exactly distant 9 miles, as he observes, from Venta Silurum or Caer Went.
[...]ton.And since Avon in the British Language signifieth a River, it is not improbable it took it's name from the river. In the same sense among us (to omit many others) we have Waterton, Bourne, Riverton; and the Latins have their Aquinum and Fluentium. And I am the more ready to believe that this town took it's name from the river, because at this place they us'd to ferry over; from whence the town opposite to it was called Trajectus by Antonine: but without doubt there is an error in the computation of the distance between these two places, since he makes it 9 miles betwixt Trajectus and Abone; whereas the river is scarce two miles over.
But I suppose it may have lost it's name, or rather dwindld into a village,The Fer [...]y. when passengers began to ferry over lower, or when Athelstan expell'd the Welsh thence. For he was the first, according to William of Malmesbury, who drove the Welsh beyond the river Wye; and whereas in former times Severn did divide the Welsh or the Cambri, and the English; he made the Wye to be their Boundary: whence our Countryman Neckham,
[...]. Br [...]is.Not far from Wye stands, amongst tufts of trees, St. Breulais Castle, more than half demolished; famous for the death of Mahel youngest son of Miles Earl of Hereford: for there, by the just judgment of heaven, he was remarkably punished for his greedy designs, inhumane cruelty, and boundless Avarice, always usurping on other men's rights; (with all these vices he is taxed by the writers of that age.) For as Giraldus writes, being courteously treated here by2 Walter de Clifford, and the castle taking fire, he lost his life by the fall of a stone on his head from the highest tower.
Here is nothing more remarkable in this woody place [e]3, but that Herbert, who marry'd the daughter of the aforesaid Mahel, Earl of Hereford, was in right of his wise call'd Lord of Deane, from whom the noble family of the Herbert's deduce their original, who gave rise to the Lords of Blanleveny, and more lately, [...] in D [...]r [...]sh [...]e. to the Herberts, Earls of Huntingdon, and Pembroke, and others. From which family (if we may credit D. Powel in his Welsh History,A [...]ny [...]erbert.) was descended Anthony Fitz-Herbert, whom the Court of Common Pleas, of which he was sometimes chief Justice, and his own most elaborate treatises of the Common Law, do manifest to have been singularly eminent in his faculty. But others affirm he was descended from the Fitz-herberts a Knightly family in the County of Derby; and indeed, in my opinion, more truly.
[...]rn.The river Severn, call'd by the Britains Haffren, after it hath run a long way in a narrow chanel [f], at it's first entrance into this Shire receives the Avon, and another small river that runs into it from the East; [...]kesbu [...] between which, is seated Tewkesbury, in the Saxon tongue Theocsbury, by others nam'd Theoci Curia, so call'd from Theocus, that there led the life of an hermit: a large and fair town, having 3 bridges over 3 rivers leading to it; famous for the making of woollen cloth, [...]t [...]rd. and smart biting Mustard; but formerly most noted for an ancient Monastery [g] founded by Odo and Dodo, two brothers, in the year of our Lord 715; where their palace formerly stood, as they shew us by the following inscription: ‘HANC AULAM REGIA DODO DUX CONSECRARI FECIT IN ECCLESIAM.’
Which being almost ruin'd by age, and the fury of Wars, was repair'd by Robert Fitz-hamonFitz-hamon a Norman4, piously designing to make what satisfaction he was able, for the loss the Church of Bajeux in Normandy sustain'd, which Henry 1. consumed with fire to free him from prison; but afterwards repenting of the fact, rebuilt it. ‘It cannot (saith William of Malmesbury) be easily conceiv'd, how much Robert Fitz-hamon adorned and beautified this Monastery, where the stateliness of the buildings ravish'd the eyes, and the pious charity of the Monks the affections of all persons that came thither.’ In this Monastery he and his successors Earls of Glocester, were interr'd, who had a castle hard by call'd Holmes, that is now ruin'd. Neither was it less famous for the bloody overthrow that the Lancastrians received in this place in the year 1471; in which battel many of them were slain, more taken and beheaded, their power so weaken'd, and their hopes so defeated by the death of Edward the only son of K. Hen. 6. and he very young (whose brains were barbarously beaten out here;) that they were never afterwards able to make any head against King Edw. 4. Whence J. Leland writes thus of this town.
From hence we go down the stream to Deorhirst, Deorhirst. which is mentioned by Bede: it lyeth very low upon the Severn, whereby it sustaineth great damages when the river overfloweth. It had formerly a small Monastery, which was ruined by the Danes, but reflourished under Edward the Confessor, who, as we read in his Will, ‘assigned it, with the government thereof, to the Monastery of St. Denis near Paris.’ But a little after, as Malmesbury saith, "it was only an empty monument of antiquity [h]. Overagainst this, in the middle of the river, lies a place call'd Oleneag and Alney, by the Saxons, now the Eight, i.e. an Island. Famous upon this account, that when the English and Danes had much weaken'd themselves by frequent encounters, to shorten the War, it was agreed, that the fate of both nations should be determin'd by the valour of Edmund King of the English, and Canutus King of the Danes, in a single combat; who after a long doubtful fight, agreed upon a peace, and the Kingdom was divided between them: but Edmund being quickly taken out of the world, not without suspicion of poyson, the Dane seised upon the whole [i].
From Deorhirst the river Severn5, after various windings and turnings parts it self, to make the Isle of Alney rich and beautiful in fruitful green meadows; and then hastens to the chief city of the county, which Antoninus calls Clevum or Glevum, the Britains Caer Gloui, the Saxons Gleaucester, we Glocester, Glocester. the vulgar Latins Glovernia, others Claudiocestria from the Emperour Claudius, who, as is reported, gave it that name when he here married his daughter Genissa to Arviragus the British King, whom Juvenal mentions.
as if Claudius his three wives brought him any daughters besides Claudia, Antonia, and Octavia; or as if Arviragus was known in that age, when his name was scarce heard of in Domitian's reign. But leaving those that make their own conjectures pass for the records of venerable antiquity, I should rather adhere to Ninnius his opinion, who derives this name from Glouus the great grand-father of King Vortigern; only I find Glevum mention'd long before by Antoninus, (which the distance from Corinium, with its name, confirm to be the same:) But as the Saxon name Gleauecester, came from Glevum, so Glevum by analogy came from the British name Caer Glowi, and that I believe from the British word Glow, which in their language signifies fair and splendid; so that Caer Glow is the same as a fair City. Upon the same account among the Greeks, arose the names of Callipolis, Callidromos, and Callistratia; and amongst the English Brightstow †, and in this County Fair-ford 6. This City was built by the Romans, on purpose to be a curb to the Silures, and a Colony placed there call'd Colonia Glevum; fora I have seen the remains of an ancient stone in the walls of Bath near the North-gate, with the following Inscription: ‘decurio.DEC COLONIAE GLEV VIXIT ANN. LXXXVI.’
This City lyes extended upon Severne, and on that side where it is not wash'd with the river, is secured in some places with a strong wall, being beautify'd with many fair Churches, and handsome well-built Streets. On the south part was once a Castle, built of square stone, but now almost quite ruin'd; it was first raised in the time of William the Conqueror, and 16 houses were demolished in that place, (as Doomsday book mentions it) to make room for this edifice. About which (as Roger de Monte writes) Roger the son of Myles, Constable of Glocester, commenced his action at Law against King Henry 2. and also Walter his brother lost the right he had both to the City and Castle. Ceaulin King of the West-Saxons first took this City by force of arms from the Britains in the year 570. then it came under the Jurisdiction of the Mercians, under whom it long flourished in great repute: here Osrick King of the Northumbrians, by the permission of Ethelred King of the Mercians, founded a great and stately Monastery for Nuns, over which Kineburga, Eadburga, and Eva, all Mercian Queens, successively presided. Edelfieda likewise, that famous Lady of the Mercians, adorned it with a noble Church, in which her self lyes intomb'd.
Not long after, when the whole County was ravaged by the Danes, these sacred Virgins were forc'd to depart, and the Danes, as Aethelwerd that ancient Author writeth, after many turns and changes of war, set up their tents at Gleuu-cester. Now those ancient Churches having been ruin'd in these calamitous times, Aldred Archbishop of York and Bishop of Worcester, erected a new one for Monks, which is the present Cathedral, and hath a Dean and six Prebendaries belonging to it. Which Church in former ages, receiv'd great additions and ornaments from several Benefactors: for J. Hanly and T. Farley Abbots added the V. Mary's Chapel, Nicholas Morwent built the western front from the ground, very beautiful.b G. Horton Abbot joyned to it the northern cross Isle; Abbotc Trowcester built the curious neat Cloysters, and Abbot Sebrook the great and stately Tower. The south Isle was rebuilt with the offerings that devout people made at the shrine of King Edward 2. who lyes here interr'd in an Alabaster tomb. And not far from him lyes in the middle of the Quire, the unfortunate Robert Curt-hose the eldest son of William the Conqueror Duke of Normandy, in a wooden monument7. Beyond the Quire in an Arch of the Church, there is a wall built with so great artifice, in the form of a semicircle with corners, that if any one whisper very low at one end, and another lay his ear to the other end, he may easily hear each distinct syllable [k]. In the reign of William the Conqueror and before, the chief trade of the city was forging of Iron; for as it is mention'd in Doomsday book, there was scace any other tribute requir'd by the King, than certaind Icres of Iron, and Iron bars, for the use of the Royal Navy; and a few pints of Honey. After the coming in of the Normans, it suffer'd some calamities when England was all in a flame by the Barons wars, being plunder'd by Edward the son of Henry 3. and after almost laid in ashes by a casual fire.
But now by the blessing of a continued peace it doth prosper and reflourish; and having the two adjacent hundreds added to it, is made a County of it self, and is call'd The County of the City of Glocester [l]. And Henry 8. in the memory of our Fathers, augmented the state thereof, by erecting an Episcopal See, with which dignity (as Geoffry of Monmouth saith) it was formerly honour'd; and I have reason not to question the truth of this assertion [m], since the Bishop ofC [...]osis. Cluve is reckon'd among the British Prelates; which name being deriv'd from Clevum or Glow, doth in part confirm my conjecture, that this is the Glevum mention'd by Antoninus [n].
The river Severne having now left Glocester [o], and uniting its divided streams8, waxeth broader and deeper by the ebbing and flowing of the tyde: it rages like the aestuation of the sea, towards which it hastens with frequent turnings and windings. But in its course toucheth upon nothing memorable, except Cambridge, Cambridg ae small Country-hamlet, (where Cam a little river runs into it)f at which bridge, as Aethelwerd writeth, when the Danes passed over by filing off laden with rich spoils, the west Saxons and Mercians receiv'd them with a bloody encounter in Woodnesfield in which Healfden, Cinuil and Inguar, three of their Princes were slain.
On the same side of the river, not much lower, standeth Berkley, Berkeys in the Saxon tongue Beorkenlau, eminent for a strong Castle and its Mayor, who is the chief Magistrate, as also for the Lords thereof the Barons of Barkley, of an ancient and noble family9; of which was William Baron of Barkley10, who in the reign of Henry 7. was made Viscount and Marquess Barkley, E. of Nottingham, and Marshal of England; but because he died without issue, those titles ceased with him [p]. If you would know by what stratagem Godwyn Earl of Kent,Earl G dwyn's [...]. a man fit and prepar'd for any wicked design, got the possession of this place; take this short account of Walter Mapes who lived 400 years since, for it is not unworthy the Reader's perusal. Berkley is a village near Severne of the yearly value of 500 l. in which was a Nunnery govern'd by an Abbess, that was both noble and beautiful. Earl Godwin a notable subtle man, not desiring her but hers, as he pass'd by, left his nephew, a young*[Page] proper handsom spark, as if seized with sickness, till he should return back thither, and instructed him to counterfeit an indisposition, till he had gotten all who came to visit him, both Lady Abbess and Nuns, with child. And to carry on the intreague more plausibly, and more effectually to obtain the favour of their visits, the Earl furnish'd him with rings and girdles, that by those presents he might the more easily corrupt and gain their inclinations. There needed no great intreaty to perswade this young Gallant to undertake an employment so amorous and pleasing. The way to destruction is easie, and quickly learnt; he seem'd wonderful cunning to himself, but all his cunning was but folly. In him were concentred all those accomplishments that might captivate foolish and unthinking virgins; beauty, wit, riches, and an obliging mein: and he was mighty solicitous to have a private apartment to himself. The Devil therefore expelled Pallas and brought in Venus; and converted the Church of our Saviour and his Saints into an accursed Pantheon, the Temple into a very Stew, and the Lambs were transformed into Wolves. When many of them proved with child, and the youth began to languish, being overcome with the excess and variety of pleasure, he hastens home with the reports of his conquests (worthy to have the reward of iniquity) to his expecting lord [and uncle.] The Earl immediately addresses the King, and acquaints him, That the Abbess and the Nuns were gotten with child, and had rendred themselves prostitutes to all comers; all which upon inquisition was found true. Upon the expulsion of the Nuns, he begs Berkley, had it granted him by the King, and settled it upon his wife Gueda; but (as Doomsday-book [...]omsday- [...]ok. hath it) she refused to eat any thing out of this Manour, because of the destruction of the Abby. And therefore he bought Udecester for her maintenance whilst she lived at Berkley: thus a conscientious mind will never enrich it self with ill gotten possessions.
I had rather you should be informed from Historians than from me, how King Edward 2. being deprived of his Kingdom by the artifice of his wife, was afterwards murder'd in this Castle, by the damnable subtilty of Adam Bishop of Hereford, [...]e [...]ness [...] Bishop. who sent these enigmatical words to his keepers, without either point or comma;
So that by the double sence and construction of the words, they might be encouraged to commit the murther, [...]rder of [...]ward 2. and he plausibly vindicate himself to the people from giving any directions in it. Below this place the little river Aven runs into the sea; at the head whereof, scarce 8 miles from the shore, on the hills near Alderley a small town, are found various stones resembling Cockles and Oysters; [...]ones like [...]ockles. which whether they were living animals, or the ludicrous fancies of nature, let natural Philosophers enquire. But Fracastorius the Prince of Philosophers in our age, makes no question but that they were animals engendred in the sea, and so carried by the waters to the tops of the mountains: for he affirms hills to have been cast up by the sea, and that they were at first only heaps of sand tumbled together [and fixed there by the waters;] also that the sea overflow'd where the hills now rise aloft: upon whose return into its wonted course, there was first discovery made both of Islands and Hills [q]. But these things are beside my purpose.
Trajectus.The Trajectus that Antonine mentions to be opposite to Abon, where they used to pass the Severne, was, as I imagine by the name, heretofore at Oldbury, i.e. if you interpret the word, an ancient Burrough; as now we ferry over at Aust a village somewhat lower [r]. [...]ust Vil [...]ge. This was formerly call'd Aust Clive, [...]ust-clive. for it is situate upon a very high craggy cliff. What the aforementioned Mapes has told us was done in this place, is worth your knowledge. Edward the elder saith he, lying at Aust Clive, and Leolin Prince of Wales at Bethesley, when the latter would neither come down to a conference, nor cross the Severn, Edward passed over to Leolin, who seeing the King, and knowing who he was, threw his royal Robes upon the ground (which he had prepared to sit in judgment with) and leaped into the water breast high, and embracing the boat, said, Most wise King, your humility has conquer'd my pride, Pride conquer'd by humility. and your wisdom triumphed over my folly; mount upon that neck which I have foolishly exalted against you, so shall you enter into that Country which your goodness hath this day made your own. And so taking him upon his shoulders, he made him sit upon his Robes, and joyning hands did him hominium. homage.
On the same shore is situate Thornbury, Thornbury where are to be seen the foundations of a magnificent Castle, which Edward last Duke of Buckingham designed to erect in the year 1511. as the inscription makes it appear [s]11. Seven miles from hence, the river Avon running into Severne, separates Glocestershire and Somersetshire: and not far from the river-side is seen Puckle-church, Puckle-church. anciently a royal village call'd Puckle-kerks, where Edmund King of England was kill'd with a dagger, as he interposed himself between Leof a noted Thief, and his Sewer, that were quarrelling [t].
Near this place lyeth Winterbourne, of which theg Bradstones Bradstones. were Lords12, from whom the Viscounts Montacute Barons of Wentworth, &c. are descended; as also Acton, Acton Ireton. which gave name to a Knightly family, whose heiress being married to Sir Nicholas Pointz Pointz. in the time of Edward 2. left it to her Posterity. Derham a small Village, in the Saxon Deorham,Deorham. Marianus. where Ceaulin the Saxon in a bloody engagement slew three of the British Princes, Commeail, Condidan, Fariemeiol, with divers others, and so dispossessed the Britains of that part of their Country for ever. There are yet to be seen in that place, huge Rampiers and Trenches, as Fortifications of their Camps, and other most infallible signs of so great a war. This was the Barony of James de novo Mercatu, Jacobus de Novo-mercatu. who having three daughters, married them to Nicholas de Moils, John de Botereaux; and Ralph Russel, whose Posterity being enrich'd by marrying into the honourable Family of the Gorges, assumed that name [u]13.
More northward is seen Duresly, the ancient possession of the Berkleys, hence call'd Berkleys of Duresly 14; they were Founders of the adjacent Abby of Kingswood, of the Cistercian order [w]15. And not far eastward we behold Beverstone-castle,Beverston. formerly belonging to the Gournys, and Ab-Adams, Ab-Adams. who flourish'd under Edward 1. but afterwards to the Knightly family of the Berkleys [x].
Hitherto I have made cursory remarks upon those places in this County which are situate beyond or upon Severn; now I will pass forward to the easterly parts, which I observ'd were hilly; to wit, Cotswold, Cotswold. which takes it's name from the hills and sheepcotes, (for, mountains and hills16, the Englishmen in old times termed Woulds, Would, what in English. upon which account the ancient Glossary interprets the Alps of Italy, the Woulds of Italy.) Upon these hills are fed large flocks of sheep, with the whitest wool, having long necks and square Bodies, by reason, as is supposed, of their hilly and short pasture; whose fine wool is much valued in foreign nations. Under the side of these hills, as it were in a neighbourhood together, lye these following places most remarkable for their Antiquity [y]17.
Campden, Campden. commonly called Camden, a noted market town, where (as John Castor averrs) all the Kings [Page 239-240] of the Saxon Race had a congress in the year 689, and had a common consult how to carry on the war joyntly against the Britains: which town,16 in William the Conqueror's time,Inq. 2. Ed. 2. was in the possession of Hugh Earl of Chester, and from his posterity descended17 by Nicholas de Albeniaco to Roger de Somery [z].h Adjoyning unto it is Weston, of no great antiquity, but now remarkable for the stately house there built by Ralph Sheldon for him and his posterity, which at a great distance makes a fine prospect
Hales. Hales, a most flourishing Abbey built by Richard Earl of Cornwal and King of the Romans18, famous for its scholar Alexander de Hales, a great master of that knotty and subtile sort of school divinity [aa]19.
Sudley. Sudley, formerly Sudleagh i, a beautiful castle, lately the seat20 of Giles Bruges Baron of Chandos, Barons of Chandos. whose grandfather John was honoured by Queen Mary with that title, because he derived his pedigree from the ancient family of Chandos, out of which there flourish'd, in the reign of K. Edw. 3.21 John Chandos Viscount St. Saviours in France, eminent for his services and great success in war. The former Lords, hence called Barons of Sudley, Barons of Sudley. that lived here, were of an ancient English Race, deducing their original from Goda the daughter of K. Aethelred, whose son Ralph Medantinus Earl of Hereford, was the father of Harold Lord of Sudley; whose progeny long continued here, until for want of issue male, the heiress married with22 William Butler of the family of Wem and brought him a son named Thomas. He was father of Ralph Lord high Treasurer of England, whom Hen. 6. created Baron of Sudley 23, and who new built this castle. His sisters were married into the families of Northbury and Belknape; by which their possessions were in a short time divided into different families.
Hard by this is Toddington, Toddington. where the Tracies, Tracies. of a worshipful and ancient family, have long flourished, and formerly received many favours from the Barons of Sudley. But how in the first reformation of religion, William Tracy Lord of this place, was censured after his death, his body being dug up and burn'd publickly, for some slight words in his last Will, which those times call'd heretical; or how in preceding times, another William Tracy imbrued his hands in the blood of Thomas Archbishop of Canterbury; Ecclesiastical writers having told us at large, is now no part of my business to relate. Winchelcomb Winchelcomb. is here seated, which is a populous town, where Kenulph the Mercian King erected a Monastery, and upon the day of it's consecration, freely dismissed Edbricth King of Kent, then his prisoner, without any ransome paid.
'Tis scarce credible, in what great repute this monastery was, for the sake of the reliques of K. Kenesm, a child of 7 years old, whom his sister privately bereaved of his life, to gain the inheritance, and who was by that age added to the number of martyrs. The neighbourhood of this place was formerly reckoned as a County or Sheriffdom by it self; for we find in an ancient manuscript belonging to the Church of Worcester, these words, Edric sirnamed Streona, that is, the Adquisitor. Acquirer, who under Ethelred, and afterwards under Cnute or Canute, presided and reigned as a Viceroy over all England, adjoyned the Sheriffdom of Winchelcombe, which was then an entire thing in it self, to the County of Glocester [bb]24.
Lower in the County lyeth Brimesfield, Brimesfield. where the Giffords were formerly Lords,Giffords Barons. to whom, by marriage with the Cliffords, came a plentiful Estate; but soon after, having only daughters, it fell to the Lords Le Strange of Blackmer, the Audleys, and others [cc].
These places are situate amongst the hills: but under the hills, upon the East-confines of the County, I saw that famous Roman highway call'd the Fosse. Fosse [...]. Out of Warwickshire it cometh down by Lemington, where there seems formerly to have been a Station of the Romans, from the coins which are often found and plow'd up there; some of which, Edward Palmer, an industrious Antiquary,k whose ancestors have long lived here, very courteously bestow'd upon me. Thence it goes by Stow on the Would, by it's high situation too much exposed to the winds [dd]; and by Northleach, so called from the little rivulet that runs by it [ee]; and thence to Cirencester, Cirencester. to which town the river Churn running southward amongst the hills25, and very commodious for mills, gave that name. This was a famous city, of great antiquity, call'd by Ptolemy Corinium, Corinium. by Antonine Durocornovium, i.e. the water Cornovium, just 15 miles, as he observeth, distant from Glevum, or Glocester. The Britains call'd it Caer-cori and Caer-ceri, the English Saxons Cyren-ceaster, and at this day it is call'd Circester and Circiter. The ruinated walls do plainly shew it hath been very large, for they are said to have been 2 miles about. That this was a considerable place, the Roman coins, chequer'd pavements, and inscriptions in marble here dug up, do evidently prove; which coming into the hands of ignorant and illiterate persons, have been slighted and lost, to the great prejudice of Antiquity: and also those Consular ways of the Romans, [...] way [...] Romans. which here cross each other, especially that which leadeth to Glevum or Glocester, are still visible with an high ridge as far as Bird lip-hill; and to a curious observer, it seems to have been paved with stone [ff]. The British Annals tell us, that this City was set on fire by one Gurmundus, I know not what African tyrant; he making use of sparrows to effect it: whence Giraldus calls it the City of Sparrows: and from these memoirs Neckham writes thus;
Who this Gurmund was, I confess, I am ignorant; the inhabitants shew a mount of earth near the town which they report he cast up, calling it Grismund's tower. Marianus, an historian of ancient credit, says that Ceaulin took this city from the Britains after he had vanquish'd their forces at Deorham, and reduced Glocester. For a long time after it was subject to the West-Saxons: for we read how Penda the Mercian was defeated by Cineglise King of the West-Saxons when he laid siege to it with a mighty army. But at last it came, with the whole County, under the power of the Mercians, and so continued till the English Monarchy: under which it was grievously harrassed by the incursions of the Danes, possibly by that Gurmon the Dane whom historians call Guthrus and Gurmundus [gg]26. Now scarce the fourth part within the walls is inhabited, the rest being pasture grounds, and the ruins of an Abbey, first built by the Saxons as is reported, and repair'd by Hen. 2.27; in which, as I am informed, many of the family of the Barons of St. Amand are interred.
The Castle that stood there was razed by the command of Hen. 3. in the first year of his reign. The chief trade of the inhabitants is in the Woollen Manufacture; and they talk much of the great bounty of Richard 1. who enriched the Abbey, and (as they affirm) made them Lords of the seven adjacent hundreds, to hold the same in Fee Farm, to have tryal of Causes, and to impose Fines; and to have the forfeitures, amercements, and other profits arising thence, [Page] to their own use [hh]. Moreover, King Henry 4. granted them privileges, for their valiant and good service performed against Thomas Holland Earl of Kent28, John Holland Earl of Huntingdon29, John Montacute Earl of Salisbury, Thomas de Spencer Earl of Glocester, and others, who being deprived of their honours, conspired against him; and being here secured by the townsmen, some of them were instantly slain, and the rest beheaded [ii].
[...]e river [...], after [...]rds Ta [...].The river Churne having left Cyrencester about 6 miles30, joyneth with Isis: for Isis, commonly call'd Ouse, that it might be originally of Glocestershire, riseth near the south border of this County, not far from Torleton, a small Village, hard by the famous Fosse-way. This is that Isisl which afterwards joyning with Tame, by adding, the names together is call'd Tamisis, chief of the British rivers; of which we may truly say, as ancient writers did of Euphrates in the East, that it both plants and waters Britain: the poetical description of it's spring-head or fountain, taken out of the marriage of Tame and Isis, I have here added; which you may read or omit, as you please.
Now as to what relates to the Earls of Glocester;Earls of G [...]ocester. some have obtruded upon us William Fitz-Eustace for the first Earl. Who this was, I have not yet met with in my reading; and l believe there was never such an one extant [kk]: but what I have found I will not conceal from the Reader. 'Tis said, that about the Norman Invasion, one Bithrick a Saxon was Lord of Glocester,Hist. Monast. against whom Maud the wife of William the Norman was highly exasperated,Tewkesbury. for the contempt of her beauty (for he refus'd to marry her,) and so maliciously contrived his ruin; and when he was cast into prison, his estate was granted by the Conquerour to Robert the son of Haimon of Curboyle in Normandy, commonly call'd Fitz-Haimon; Fitz. Haimon. who receiving a blow on the head with a Pole, Guil. Malm. lived a great while raving and distracted. His daughter Mabel (by others call'd Sybil) was married to Robert natural son of King Henry 1. who was made first Earl of Glocester, and by the common writers of that age is call'd Consul of Glocester, a man, above all others in those times, of a great and undaunted spirit, that was never dismay'd by misfortunes, and performed heroick and difficult actions, with mighty honour, in the cause of his sister Maud against Stephen the usurper of the crown of England. His son William succeeded in the honour31, whose 3 daughters conveyed the dignity to so many families†. The eldest, Isabella, brought this title to John the son of K. Henry 2. but when he had possessed himself of the throne, he procured a divorce from her, and sold her for 20000 marks to Geoffry de Mandeville son of Geoffry son of Peter Earl of Essex,Pat. 15. Joan. R. 4. and created him Earl of Glocester. He being dead without issue, Almaric Ebroicensis. son to the Earl of Eureux had this honour conferred upon him, as being born of Mabil32 the youngest daughter of Earl William aforesaid. But Almaric dying also childless, the honour descended to Amicia the second daughter, who being married to Richard de Clare Earl of Hertford, was mother to Gilbert de Clare Earl of Glocester33;Earls of Glocester and Hertford. whose son Richard, and his grandson Gilbert 2. and great grandson Gilbert 3. (who fell in the battel at Sterling in Scotland) successively inherited this title. But in the minority of Gilbert 3.34 Ralph de Montehemer, who did clandestinely espouse the widow of Gilbert 2. andCall'd Jeanna D'Acres, because born at Acon. daughter of Edward 1.35 for some time enjoy'd the title of Earl of Glocester.
But when Gilbert had arrived at the age of 21 years, he claimed the title, and was call'd to serve in Parliament amongst the Barons. After Gilbert 3. who died childless,36 Hugh de Spencer or Spencer jun. is by writers stiled Earl of Glocester in right of his wife, who was the eldest sister of Gilbert 3. But he being hang'd by the Queen and her Lords in despight to Edward 2.Tho. de la Marc in the life of Ed. 2. whose Favourite he was,37 Hugh de Audley, who married the other sister, by the favour of Edward 3. obtained the honour. After whose death King Richard 2. erected this title into a Dukedom, of which there were three Dukes with one Earl between, and to them all it was unfortunate [Page 243-244] and fatal, and brought them to their ruin.
Thomas of Woodstock Earl of Buckingham, the youngest son of King Edward 3.Dukes of Glocester. was the first that was dignify'd with the title of Duke, but presently fell into the displeasure of King Richard 2. for being an ambitious man, of an unquiet spirit, he was surprised and sent to Calais, and there smothered he with a Feather-bed; having before made a confession under his hand (as appears in the Parliament Rolls) that by virtue of a Patent which he had extorted from the King, he had arrogated to himself Regal Authority, appear'd armed in the King's presence, contumeliously revil'd him, consulted with learned men how he might renounce his Allegiance, and entertain'd a design to depose him. For which, after he was dead, he was attainted of High Treason by Act of Parliament. He being thus taken off, the same King gave the title of Earl of Glocester to Thomas De-Spencer 38, who a little while after met with no better fate than his great Grandfather39 Hugh had before him; for he was prosecuted by Henry 4 and ignominiously degraded and beheaded at Bristol 40. Henry 5. created his brother Humphry the second Duke of Glocester, who us'd to stile himself41 Son, Brother, and Uncle of Kings, Duke of Glocester, Earl of Pembroke, and Lord high Chamberlain of England. He was a great Friend and Patron both of his Country and Learning, but by the contrivance42 of a woman, he was taken off at St. Edmunds-Bury. The third and last Duke was Richard the third, brother to King Edward 4. who having inhumanly murther'd his Nephews, usurp'd the Throne, which within the space of two years he lost with his life in a pitcht battle, and found by sad experience, That an unsurped power unjustly gain'd, is never lasting.
Richard 3.Concerning this last Duke of Glocester, and his first entrance upon the Crown, give me leave to act the part of an Historian for a while, which I shall presently lay aside again, as not being sufficiently qualify'd for such an undertaking.
When he was declared Protector of the Kingdom, and had his two young nephews, Edward 5. King of England, and Richard Duke of York in his power; he began to aim at the Crown; and by a profuse liberality, great gravity mixed with singular affability, deep wisdom, impartial Justice to all people, joyned with other subtle devices, he procured the affections of all, and particularly gained the Lawyers on his side, and so managed the matter, that there was an humble Petition in the name of the Estates of the realm, offer'd him, in which they earnestly pray'd him, That for the publick good of the Kingdom, and safety of the People, he would accept the Crown, and thereby support his tottering Country, and not suffer it to fall into utter ruin; which without respect to the laws of Nature, and those of the establish'd Government, had been harrassed and perplexed with civil wars, rapines, murders, and all other sorts of miseries, ever since Edward 4. his brother, being enchanted with love potions, had contracted that unhappy march with Elizabeth Grey widow, without the consent of Nobles, or publication of Banns, in a clandestine manner, and not in the face of the Congregation, contrary to the laudable custom of the Church of England. And what was worse, when he had pre-contracted himself to the Lady Eleanor Butler, daughter to the Earl of Shrewsbury; from whence it was apparent that his marriage was undoubtedly unlawful, and that the issue proceeding thence must be illegitimate, and not capable of inheriting the Crown. Moreover, since George Duke of Clarence, second brother of Edward 4. was by Act of Parliament attainted of High Treason, and his children excluded from all right of succession, none could be ignorant that Richard remained the sole and undoubted heir of the kingdom; who being born in England, they well knew would seriously consult the good of his native Country; and of whose birth and legitimacy there was not the least question or dispute: whose wisdom also, justice, gallantry of mind, and warlike exploits valiantly performed for the good of the Nation, and the splendor of his noble extract (as descended from the royal race of England, France and Spain) they were very well acquainted with, and fully understood. Wherefore having seriously considered again and again of these and many other reasons, they did freely and voluntarily, with an unanimous consent, according to their Petition, elect him to be their King, and with prayers and tears, out of the great confidence they had in him, humbly besought him to accept of the Kingdom of England, France and Ireland, which were doubly his, both by right of inheritance and election, and that for the love which he bore to his native Country, he would stretch forth his helping hand, to save and protect it from impendent ruin. Which if he performed, they largely promis'd him all faith, duty and allegiance; otherwise they were resolv'd to endure the utmost extremity, rather than suffer themselves to be brought into the bonds of a disgraceful slavery, from which at present they were freed. This humble Petition was presented to him before he accepted the Crown; afterwards it was also offered in the great Council of the Nation, and approved of, and by their authority it was enacted and declared (in a heap of words, as the custom is) That by the Laws of God, Nature, and of England, and by a most laudable Custom, Richard after a lawful Election, Inauguration and Coronation, was and is the true and undoubted King of England, &c. and that the inheritance of these Kingdoms rightfully belongs to the heirs of his body lawfully begotten: and to use the very words as they are penned in the original Records, It was enacted, decreed and declar'd, by authority of Parliament, that all and singular the Contents in the aforesaid Bill, are true and undoubted, and that the same our Lord the King, with the assent of the three Estates of the Realm, and the authority aforesaid, doth pronounce, decree, and declare the same to be true and undoubted.
I have more largely explained these matters, that it may be understood how far the power of a Prince, pretended godliness, subtle arguings of Lawyers, flattering hope, cowardly fear, desire of new changes, and specious pretences, may prevail against all right and justice, even upon the great and wise assembly of the Nation. But the same cannot be said of this Richard as was of Galba, That he had been thought fit for Empire, had he not reigned; for he, seated in the Empire, deceived all mens expectations; but this had been most worthy of a Kingdom, had he not aspired thereunto by wicked ways and means: so that in the opinion of the wise, he is to be reckon'd in the number of bad men, but of good Princes. But I must not forget that I am a Chorographer, and so must lay aside the Historian.
There are in this County 280 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to GLOCESTERSHIRE.
[a] GLocestershire, in Saxon Gleaƿceastre-scyre, and Gleaƿcestre-scyre, is said to be in length 60 miles, in breadth 26, and in circumference 190. The Vineyards mention'd by our Author, have nothing left in this County but the places nam'd from them; one near Tewkesbury, at present call'd the Vineyard, Vineyards. and another on a rising hill by Oversbridge near Glocester; where was a large house moted round, belonging to the Bishop of Glocester, built about the year 1351. by the Abbot of Glocester; but 'twas totally ruin'd in the late Civil Wars.
[b] The Custom of having forfeited Estates return'd them, is now lost by desuetude; for upon the strictest enquiries among understanding men, it does not appear that 'tis us'd o [...] claim'd in any part of this County.
[c] The present Forest of Dean [...]ean forest contains about 30000 Acres; the soil a deep clay, fit for the growth of Oak. The hills are full of Iron-ore, which colour the several Springs that have their passage through them. Here are several Fornaces for the making of Iron, which by the violence of the fire becomes fluid, and being brought to their forges, are beat out into Barrs of various shapes. The workmen are very industrious in seeking out the Beds of old Cinders, which not being fully exhausted, are burnt again in the furnaces, and make the best Iron. The Oak of the forest was so very considerable, that 'tis said to have been part of the Instructions of the Spanish Armada to destroy the timber of this place. But what a foreign power could not effect, our own Civil dissentions did; for it went miserably to wrack in the Civil wars.
[d] The Aventon [...]venton. mention'd by our Author is at present call'd Alvington, being a Chapel of Ease to Wollaston, the estate of Henry Duke of Beaufort. St. Brevial's-Castle is now ruin'd, and serves as a prison for offenders in the Forest. It has been always esteem'd a place of trust and honour, and several of the Nobility have been Governours of it. His Grace the Duke of Beaufort is Constable of the place. Here it is that the Mine-Court, Swain-Mote, and Speech-Court are kept, wherein are several old Customs of Pleading.
[e] By the river Wye, lyeth Newland, [...]wland. a large Parish, standing in a pleasant plain, where are vast Mine-pits of 60 or 70 foot deep, and as large as a considerable Church. Mr. Jones, a Hamborow-Merchant, erected here an Alms house for 16 poor men and women, and gave a very good house and stipend to a Lecturer; the Company of Haberdashers in London being Trustees. North-west from hence, is Westbury, [...]estbury. a very large Parish, reputed about twenty miles in compass.
[f] Our next guide is the Severn, [...]ern. which runs in this County above 40 miles by land: 'tis in some places 2 or 3 miles over, and yet the tyde floweth the whole length of the current as high as Tewkesbury. It is remarkable that the tydes one year are largest at full Moon, the next at the change; and and that one year the night-tydes are largest, the other the day-tydes.
[g] This river first goes to Tewkesbury, [...]wkes [...]y. where but little of the Abbey remains, saving only the Church, which is now Parochial, and had once a fair Spire upon it. Mr. Fuller in his Church-History makes it a controverted point, whether the Abbot of Tewkesbury had a voice in Parliament; but by Bishop Godwin's Annals it appears he had one, 1539. So that this County had four mitred Abbies, Glocester, Cirencester, Tewkesbury, and Winchcomhe. The Corporation was dissolv'd by the Proclamation of King James 2. 1688.
[h] At a little distance from hence is Deorhirst, [...]rhirst. where Mr. Powell in the year 1675. dug up in his Orchard an old stone with this Inscription: Odda Dux jussit hanc Regiam Aulam construi at (que) dedicari in honorem S. Trinitatis, pro animâ germani sui Elfrici quae de hoc loco assumpta. Ealdredus vero Episcopus qui eandem dedicavit 2 Idibus April. 14. autem anno S. Regni Eadwardi Regis Anglorum: i.e. Duke Odda commanded this Royal Palace to be built, and to be dedicated to the Holy Trinity, for the soul of his Cousin Elfrick, which was parted from his body in this place. But Ealdred was the Bishop who consecrated it, on the second of the Ides of April, and the 14th year of the reign of the Holy King Edward.
[i] Next is what our Author calls OleaneagOlaniage. in Saxon, instead of Olanige (for so our ancient Annals read it,) and makes it famous for the battle between Edmund and Canutus. But general tradition will not allow this to be the place, neither is it justify'd by any analogy between the old and new names. Near Glocester, betwixt Oversbridge and Maysemore, there is an Island call'd to this day the Isle of Alney, which one need not scruple to say was the very place of that action.
[k] From hence the Severn runs to Glocester, Glocester. in Saxon Gleaƿanceaster, where the Castle mention'd by Mr. Camden, is now the common Goal for Debtors and Felons. The Monastery built there by Osrick, being ruin'd and decay'd, was repair'd by Beornulph King of the Mercians in the year 821. who chang'd the former institution into Seculars; and they continued till Wulstan Bishop of Worcester plac'd Regulars there of the Order of St. Benedict, in the year 1022. A learned Member of this Church has discover'd by some ancient Records, that Ralph Willington (and not the two mention'd by our Author) built our Lady's Chapel, and gave Lands to find two Priests for ever there. The Offerings at King Edward's Tomb were very large; for presently after his death, so great a respect was paid to the memory of their injur'd Prince, that the Town was scarce able to receive the Votaries that flock'd thither. And the Register of the Abbey affirms, that if all the Oblations had been expended upon the Church, they might have built an entire new one from the very foundation. The Tower is so neat and curious, that several Travellers have affirm'd it to be one of the best pieces of Architecture in England. Abbot Seabroke the first designer of it dying, left it to the care of Robert Tully a Monk of this place; which is intimated in thole two verses written in black Letters, under the arch of the Tower in the Quire:
The Whispering-place seems to be purely accidental; for if one survey the out-side of the Church, he will see that two parts of it were tackt on only as passages into a Chapel erected there.
[l] As for the City, King John made it a Burrough to be govern'd by two Bailiffs, and King Henry 3. (who was crown'd here) made it a Corporation. On the south-side of the Abbey King Edward 1. erected a noble Free-stone-gate, which is still call'd Edward's Gate; it was repair'd by the last Abbot, but almost demolisht in the late Civil wars. K. Richard the third gave it his Sword and Cap of Maintenance, and added the two Hundreds; but after the Restoration of King Charles 2. they were taken away by Act of Parliament, and the walls pull'd down, because they had shut the gates against King Charles 1. when he laid siege to the place, in the year 1643.
Before that siege, the City was adorn'd with eleven Parish-Churches; but five of them were then demolish'd. There is great provision for the poor by Hospitals; particularly Bartholomew's Hospital maintains 54 poor men and women, to whom there belongs a Minister, Physician, and Chirurgeon. And Sir Thomas Rich Baronet, a native of this place, gave 6000 l. by Will for a Blewe-coat-Hospital, wherein are educated 20 Boys; 10 poor Men, and as many Women, [Page 247-248] maintain'd; all cloath'd annually. Besides these (and three more) there are many other Benefactions to encourage young Tradesmen, and to place out boys Apprentices.
[m] As to this place being the seat of a British Bishop, there is this farther confirmation; that in the Hall of the Bishop's Palace is written, Eldadus Episcopus Glocestrensis; and Bishop Godwin says, that Theonus was translated from Glocester to London in the year 553.
[n] Just beyond Glocester, the Severn passeth by Lanthony, Lanthony. a ruinated Priory built in the year 1136. as a Cell to that of St. John Baptist in Wales. Above this, on a little hill, stood Newark-house, which belong'd to the Prior, and has been lately rebuilt by my Lord Scudamore the owner thereof.
[o] Below this the river Stroud Stroud. runneth into the Severn, upon which standeth a town of the same name, famous for cloathing; the water whereof is said to have a peculiar quality in dying Reds. It is a market-town standing on the ascent of a hill, snd is the chief residence of the Clothiers in these parts, whose trade in this County amounts to 500000 l. per annum; some making a thousand Cloaths a year for their own share.
Between this and Glocester standeth Paynswick, Paynswick. a market-town, said to have the best and wholsomest air in the whole County: and near it, on the hill, was Kembsborow-Castle, Kembsborow Castle. the fortifications and trenches whereof are still visible. Beyond which lyeth Prinknersh, once the mansion of the Abbot of Glocester, a pleasant seat on the side of the hill: 'tis now the inheritance of John Bridgman Esq a descendant of Sir John Bridgman Lord chief Justice of Chester.
South of the river Stroud, and not far from Minchin hampton, (a pretty market-town once belonging to the Nuns of Sion,) is Wood-chester, Wood-chester. famous for it's tesseraick work of painted beasts and flowers, which appears in the Churchyard two or three foot deep in making the graves. If we may believe tradition, Earl Godwin's wife (to make restitution for her husband's fraud at Barkley) built a Religious-house here, with those pretty ornaments that are yet to be seen.
[p] But now to return to our Author: BarkleyBarkley. is the largest parish in the County, and gives name to the greatest division. The place is honour'd by giving title to George Earl of Barkley, who hath a fair Castle here, tho' not so large as formerly. The little room where the unhappy King Edward was murder'd, is still to be seen. The Mayor here is only titular.
The manour of Kings-Weston, tho' at 12 miles distance from Barkley, is yet in the same Hundred; and was (as it appears by Domesday) at and before the Conquest, a parcel of the said manour of Barkley. In the year 1678. it was purchas'd by Sir Robert Southwell, who has there, between the Avon and the Severn, a very pleasant seat. It hath a prospect into several Counties, and the ships in Kings-road are at an easie distance. The Southwells were formerly considerable in Nottinghamshire, at the town of the same name, from whence they removed into Norfolk. In King James 1.'s time, the eldest branch went into Ireland, where the said Sir Robert enjoys a fair estate on the opposite shore to King-weston, at King-sale, and thereabouts.
[q] Alderly Alderly. is now only famous for being the birth-place of Sir Matthew Hale Lord chief Justice of England; who dying in the year 1676. lyeth buried in this Churchyard under a tomb of black marble.
[r] As Oldbury Oldbury. in both parts of it's name carries something of antiquity; so has it that title confirm'd to it by a large Campus major of the Roman Fortifications, and where the Church now stands was the Campus minor: there are in this County several more such.
[s] At a little distance from the Severn is Thornbury, Thornbury only a titular Mayor-town. The Castle design'd to be rebuilt, had this Inscription, This gate was begun 1511. 2 Hen. 8. by me Edward Duke of Buckingham, Earl of Hereford, Stafford, and Northampton. He was beheaded before he perfected his design; for he had intended to make the Church at Thornbury Collegiate, with Dean and Prebends. They have here four small Alms-houses, a Free-school, and weekly market. The most considerable Gentry heretofore paid an annual attendance at Thornbury-Court, where the Abbot of Tewksbury was oblig d personally to say Mass.
[t] Puckle-Church Puckle-Church. is now only a small village, the seat of the Dennis's, whose family have been 18 times High-Sheriff of this County.
Beyond this, near Bristol, lyeth Kingswood-forest, Kingswoo [...] formerly of a much larger extent, but now drawn within the bounds of 5000 acres. It consists chiefly of Coal-mines, several Gentry being possessors of it by Patent from the Crown. 'Tis a controverted point whether it be a Forest or Chase; for 'tis said to have been dependant upon Micklewood, that is now destroy'd. Within it are two fine seats; Barrs-Court in Bitton-parish, belonging to Sir John Newton Baronet; and Siston-house, to Samuel Trotman Esquire.
Not far from Bristol lyeth Westbury Westbury. upon Trin; which river now is dwindled into a little brook. Here was a famous College, encompass'd with a strong wall, built by John Carpenter Bishop of Worcester about the year 1443. who design'd to have been stil'd Bishop of Worcester and Westbury. This, with the adjacent Parishes in Glocestershire that lye round Bristol, are under the Jurisdiction of the Bishop of Bristol.
On the top of St. Vincent's RocksS. Vincen [...] Rocks. near Bristol,Aubr. M is a roundish fortification or Camp; the rampire and graffe thereof not great: for by reason of the nearness of the rock, which is as hard as marble, the ground is not easily digg'd. Whether those rocks towards the top consist mostly of petrify'd pieces of wood (as some are inclin'd to think) let the Naturalists examine. The precipice of the Rock over the river Avon, has made all Works on the west-side needless.
About two miles from St. Vincent's rocks is Henbury, Henbury. Ibid. where is a Camp with three rampires and trenches; from which one may conclude it to have been done rather by the Britains than any other people.
[u] The Fortifications mention'd by our Author to be at Derham, Derham. are (I suppose) the same with that Mon. Ba [...] MS. Mr. Aubrey has taken notice of upon Henton-hill in that parish. It is call'd Burrill, is single-trench'd, and seems to have been ruin'd before fully finish'd. Within the bank it contains 20 acres of arable land; but on the west and south sides there is no bank nor trench; which probably was occasion'd by the steep Meres that would not give leave to draw them. The New-merch or de novo mercatu, mention'd by our Author, came in with the Conquerour; but had only two daughters, Hawys and Isabel, as Sir William Dugdale in his Baronage has told us. Mr. Camden's mistake in making three, seems occasion'd by the elder being marry'd first to John Botereaux, and afterwards to Nicholas de Moels; which two, he says, marry'd two of the daughters. This Deorham from Ralph Russel descended to Sir Gilbert Dennys, who marry'd the heiress of that family; thence to the Winters, whose heiress marry'd to William Blathwayt Esq the present possessor: he hath built here a stately new fabrick in the room of the old one.
Not far from hence lyeth Great Badminton, Great B [...] minton. a seat belonging to his Grace Henry Duke of Beaufort; which having been made his Country-residence since the demolishment of Rayland Castle, is so adorn'd with stately additions to the house, large parks, neat and spacious gardens, variety of fountains, walks, avenues, Paddocks, and other contrivances for recreation and pleasure; as to make it justly esteem'd one of the most complete seats in the kingdom: all which is owing to the care, judgment, and expence of the present Duke.
But here we must not omit Chipping-Sodbury, Chippin [...]-Sodbury a market-town below the hills, which hath a Free-school, and was govern'd by a Bailiff: but about 1681. 'twas made a Corporation, with a Mayor, Aldermen, and Burgesses; which was suppressed by the Proclamation of K. James, 1688.
Next is Wotton-under-edge, Wotton-under-e [...] famous for Cloathing; where is a noble Free-school erected by Catherine relict [Page 249-250] of Thomas Lord Berkley, in the year 1385. an Alms-house by Hugh Perry Alderman of London, in 1632. which cost 1000 l. and the like sum was given by Sir Jonathan Daws late Sheriff of London, for the relief of the poor.
[w] In this bottom lyeth Dursly, Durs [...]y. a market-town, famous for Cloathing. Kingeswood Abbey (which our Author mentions) is by all writers plac'd in Glocestershire; whereas the whole Parish is really in the County of Wilts, under the power of their Sheriffs and Justices, but within the Diocese of Glocester. It was founded by William Berkley 1139. thence removed to Tetbury, and at last fix'd here till the Dissolution.
[x] Above the hills is Beverston Beverston. Castle, which formerly belong'd to the Berkleys, but is now in the possession of Sir William Hicks Baronet. Beyond which lyeth Tetbury, where is a great market for yarn; and a Free-school and Alms-house by the bounty of Sir William Romney a native of the place. It belong'd to the Berkleys, but they sold their right to the inhabitants who now enjoy the tolls and profits of the markets and fairs.
[y] In Coteswold, near Norlich or North-Leach, at a village call'd Farmington, Aubr. MS. is an exceeding large Roman camp nam'd Norbury, Norbury. 850 paces long, and 473 broad. The Works are but single, and not very high: 'tis now a corn-field; and not far from it westward there is a barrow.
In the same Would is Painswick-Parish, about 5 miles from Glocester; † wherein is Kimsbury-Castle, Kimsbury-Castle. exceeding high:Ibid. on the north-side it has a vast precipice, and on the other sides stupendous Works. From hence is a most lovely prospect over the Vale, to Malvern-hills, to Shropshire, Worcestershire, Herefordshire, and Monmouthshire.
[z] In the north part of the County is Camden, [...]amden. a market-town famous for Stockings. It gave the title of Viscount to Sir Baptist Hicks, 4 Car. 1. who was a great benefactor to this place, by erecting an Alms-house, rebuilding the market-place, and annexing the Impropriation of Winfryth in Dorsetshire for the augmentation of the Vicaridge. He built here a curious house near the Church (which was burnt in the late Civil Wars, lest it should be a garrison for the Parliament;) and lyes bury'd in the south Ile of the Church, which is adorn'd with such noble monuments of marble, as equal, if not exceed, most in England. He gave in his life-time ten thousand pounds to charitable uses, as his Epitaph mentions; and leaving only two daughters, the honour descended to my Lord Noel by marrying the eldest of them: whose posterity are now Earls of Gainsburrow.
The Weston mention'd by our Author near this place, is not that where Ralph Sheldon built his house (for he had no land there;) but Weston in the parish of Long-Compton in Warwickshire, of which place he was then Lord, as his posterity are to this day.
Beyond Camden, on a rising ground; is Ebburton, where the Lord Chancellour Fortescue lies buried: his monument was not erected till the year 1677.
[aa] Next, is Hales-Abbey, which was begun in the year 1246. and when 'twas dedicated, the King, Queen, and Court, were all present at the solemnity. There are now but small remains of it, only a neat cloyster; the rest being turn'd into a fair house now in the possession of William Lord Tracy of Toddington two miles off, where he has a stately house, the seat of his Ancestors. Alexander de Hales, mention'd by our Author, lies bury'd in the Cordeliers Church in Paris, and (if his Epitaph says true) dy'd 1245. a year before this Abbey was begun; so that I do not see how he could have his education here.
[bb] Not far from hence is Winchcomb, W [...]nchcomb. where are scarce any ruins visible either of the Abbey, or of that which was call'd Ivy-Castle, or of St. Nicholas Church that stood in the east part of the town. The inhabitants made planting of Tobacco their chief business, which turn'd to good account; till restrain'd by the 12 Car. 2. they decay'd by little and little, and are now generally poor.
[cc] A little lower lies Brimpsfield, Brimpsfield which was formerly a place of some repute; for we find, that Lionel Duke of Clarence had a Charter for a weekly market here on Tuesdays, and a Fair on the Eve of Corpus Christi: here was also a Priory and a Castle; but both are vanish'd. John Gifford, Lord of this place, founded Glocester-hall in Oxon. for the Monks of Glocester.
[dd] On the edge of Oxfordshire is Stow, Stow. a great market, where (as the common observation goes) they have but one element, viz. Air; there being neither wood, common field, nor water, belonging to the town. It hath an Alms-house, a Free school, and a multitude of poor. Here, in the year 1645. March 21. the forces of King Charles 1. being over-power'd, were routed by the Parliament-Army.
[ee] Next is North leach, Northleach a market-town with a neat Church. Here is a good Grammar-school founded by Hugh Westwood Esq who (as 'tis commonly reported) came afterwards to be low in the world, and desiring to be Master of his own school, was deny'd that favour by the Trustees. By theCap. 7. 4th of James 1. it was settl'd upon Queen's College in Oxford.
[ff] More to the south is Cirencester, Cirencester where was a Church of Prebendaries before the Conquest; but of whose foundation, unknown. Rumbaldus (asItin. MS. Leland affirms) Chancellour to Edward the Confessor, was Dean of this place, and bury'd here. They have had 3 Parochial-Churches, St. Cecilia's, St. Lawrence; and St. John's, a very fair one, the present Parish-Church. It hath in it 5 Chapels; that of St. Mary's was very considerable, of the perquisites whereof there is a large account in the MSS. of Sir William Dugdale in Oxford. The body of the Church is new work, said to be built by Tho. Ruthall Bishop of Durham, a native of this place, whose Arms impal'd with those of the Bishoprick of Durham, are seen in it. But notwithstanding that, he could not be the Founder; for there is a Tomb for Sir William Nottingham 1427. whereas the Bishop dy'd not till 1524. and the Register of St. Mary's Chapel was made 1460. Leland indeed has told us, that Aveling, the Bishop's Aunt, gave 100 l. to the building of the goodly porch there, and his other relations contributed to the finishing of it.
[gg] The Author of the Welsh History makes mention of one Gurmundus an Arch pirate, Captain of the Norwegians, who assisted the Saxons. The place call'd Grismund s Tower, is yet to be seen on the west-side of the town; 'tis a steep round berry, like a Windmill-hill, where mens bones of an unusual size have been found, and sepulchres with a round vessel of lead, with ashes and pieces of bones in them, as Leland informs us.
In this town are two fine seats, the one belonging to the Earl of Newburrough, and the other (which was the site of the Abbey) to Thomas Masters Esq.
[hh] The 7 Hundreds that were so great a privilege to the Abbey, are now vested in Sir Robert Atkyns Knight of the Bath, Lord chief Baron of the Exchequer, who hath a fair seat and estate at Sapperton Sapperton. near this place. His Ancestors have been very eminent in the Law; the father and two sons having sat Judges in Westminster-hall, since the year 1660.
There have been lately dug up in the town large vaults of brick, which were in ancient times made by the Romans for Baths.
[ii] Beyond Cirencester lyeth Fairford, Fairford. where the fine Church was built by John Tame Esq. He dy'd the 8. of May 1500. and lies bury'd here. (He is said also to have built Rendcombe-Church, which place is now the habitation of Sir John Guyse Baronet, where he hath made him a pleasant seat.) The Tames were possessed of this place by the Attainder of Nevil Earl of Warwick, where was a house on the north-side of the Church call'd Warwick-Court. The present possessor is Andrew Barker Esq who about 30 years since built a neat house remoter from the Church.
Thence we go to Lechlade, which the Monkish Writers hammer'd into Latinlade, to support their forged notion of it's being a Latin University. Whereas,See Somner's Gloss. to the X. Scriptores, under the title Greglada. if they had understood their own original language, they would easily have perceiv'd that the [Page 251-252] name implies no more than the Lech's unlading it self there into the Thames.
[kk] Before the Earls reckon'd up by our Author,Baronage p. 1. Sir William Dugdale has observ'd that Eldol the Britain had the title of Earl of Glocester, in the year 461.Ibid. p. 18. and that Swayne, eldest son to Godwin Earl of Kent, had the same honour.
Continuation of the DUKES.
Henry, third son to King Charles 1. born 1639. was Duke of Glocester, and dy'd unmarry'd 13. Sept. 1660. Since which time this title lay vacant till William son of George Prince of Denmark was created Duke of this place by his present Majesty.
More rare Plants growing wild in Glocestershire.
Androsaemum Campoclarense Col. Matthioli Park. quoad descr. Hypericon elegantissimum non ramosum, folio lato J. B. Ascyron seu Hypericum bifolium glabrum non perforatum C. B. Elegant broad-leav'd imperforate S. John's-wort. On St. Vincent's rock near Bristol.
Asparagus palustris Ger. Marsh Asparagus or Sperage, corruptly call'd Sparrow-grass. See the other Synonymes in Cornwall Cat. In Appleton-meadow about two miles from Bristol: where the Country-people do gather the buds or young shoots, and sell them in the markets at Bristol, much cheaper than our Garden-kind is sold in London. Park. p. 455. This should seem rather to be the common or manured Asparagus growing wild, than the maritime; which differs from it, though growing in the same place, in having thicker leaves and a better taste. Magnol.
Buxus arborescens Park. Buxus Ger. J. B. The Box-tree. At Boxwell in Coteswold. As I find in some notes communicated to me by my honoured friend Mr. John Aubrey.
Cardamine pumila Bellidis folio Alpina Ger. emac. Plantula Cardamines alterius aemula Park. Nasturtium Alpinum Bellidis folio minus C. B. Sinapi pumilum Bellidis folio Clusio J. B. Daisie-leav'd Ladies-smock. Found by Mr. Newton on St. Vincent's-rock near Bristol.
Ceterach, sive Asplenium & Scolopendria. Spleenwort or Miltwast. About St. Vincent's-rock among the heaps of stones plentifully: and on many walls about Bristol.
Hyacinthus Autumnalis minor. Small Autumnal Hyacinth. On the same St. Vincent's-rock. See the Synonymes in Cat. Cornw.
Malva arborea marina nostras, Park. English Sea-tree-mallow. On an Island call'd Dinney, three miles from Kings-road, and five miles from Bristol. Park. p. 306.
Peucedanum minus Park. C. B. Phytop. pumilum Ger. Peucedani facie pusilla planta Lob. Selinum montanum pumilum Clusii, foliis Foeniculi aut Peucedani, flore albo, semine Selini J. B. Rock-Parsley. On St. Vincent's-rock, near Bristol.
Rubia Sylvestris Park. See the other Synonymes in Devon. Cat. Wild-madder. On St. Vincent's-rock. This hath been mistaken for the common manured Madder, from which it is specifically distinct.
Sedum minus è rupe S. Vincentii. Small Sengrene of St. Vincent's-rock. The title directs to the place.
To these I shall add,
Anemone tuberosa radice Phyt. Brit. Knobby rooted Anemony or Wind-flower, said to grow on Coteswold-hills near Black-Burton, and to be a great ornament to those barren hills; by Mr. Heaton. My learned and inquisitive friend Mr. Edward Lloyd sought it there in vain.
Hipposelinum Ger. emac. Hipposelinum seu Smyrnium vulgare, Park. Macerone, quibusdam Smyrnium, semine magno nigro J. B. Hipposelinum Theophrasti, vel Smyrnium Dioscoridis C. B. Alexanders. On the rocks at Bechley going down to Ast-ferry.
Nasturtium montanum annuum tenuissimè divisum. Finely-cut annual Mountain-Cresse. Brought to Mr. Bobert from St. Vincent's-rock, near Goram's-Chair in the parish of Henbury, three miles from Bristol. It is something agreeable to the Nasturtium Alpinum tenuissimè divisum septimum C. B.
Allium Holmense sphaericeo capite, Scorodoprassum primum Clusii Ger. emac. Allium sphaericeo capite, folio latiore, sive Scorodoprassum alterum C. B. Great round-headed Garlick of the Holms-Island. Found plentifully growing in the said Island in the Severn-Sea by Mr. Newton.
Sedum minus fruticosum C. B. Vermicularis frutex minor Ger. fruticosa altera Park. An Culi species, seu Vermicularis marina arborescens J. B. Shrub-stone-crop or Glasswort: found by Lobel growing plentifully in the Holms-Islands.
OXFORDSHIRE.
THE County of Oxford, call'd by the Saxons Oxenfordschyre, commonly Oxfordshire, which I before observ'd did belong to the Dobuni; on the west, borders upon Glocestershire; on the south, where it is broadest, the river Isis divides it from Barkshire; on the east it is bounded by Bucks; and upon the north, where it ends as it were in a cone, on the one side it has Northamptonshire, on the other Warwickshire. It is a rich and fertile Country, the lower parts are cultivated into pleasant fields and meadows; the hills are cover'd with great store of woods. Nor is it only fruitful in grass and corn, but abounds with all sorts of game both for hunting and hawking, and rivers well stockt with fish. Thea Isis (afterwards call'd Tamisis) in a long course washeth the south-side of this County. Cherwell a small river, famous for plenty of fish, after it has divided this shire for some space from that of Northampton, flows gently through the middle of the County, and divides it as it were into two Parts. The river Tame waters and makes fruitful the eastern parts, till at last both of these rivers, with several other little streams, are receiv'd into the Isis [a.]
The Isis, when it has just touch'd upon Wiltshire, is upon its first entrance on this County restrain'd by Rodcot-bridge;Rodcot-bridge. whence it passes by Bablac, Bablac. famous for Robert de Vere the great Earl of Oxford, Marquess of Dublin, and Duke of Ireland; who being highly in favour and authority with King Richard the second, and for that reason no less envied and hated by his Fellow-Barons, has taught us this lesson, That no power has force enough to secure those that enjoy it. For being here defeated in a skirmish with the Nobles, he was constrain'd to take the river, 1387 and swim over for his life, which was the sad catastrophe of all his greatness and glory: for he presently fled the realm, andb died in ignominious banishment. In the Poem of the marriage of Tame and Isis we have these verses of him:
After this the Isis now and then overflowing the lower grounds, receives its first addition from Windrush, a small brook, which flowing out of the Cotteswold salutes Burford [...]ford. standing on the banks of it, in Saxonc Beorford, where Cuthred King of the West-Saxons then tributary to the Mercians, not being able to endure any longer the cruelty and base exactions of King Aethelbald, met him in the open field with an Army, and beat him; taking his standard, in which we read was the pourtraicture of a golden Dragon [b]. From hence it runs to Minster-Lovel, heretofore the seat of the Lords Lovel of Tichemersh, who being descended from one Lupel a noble Norman, did long bear a considerable figure in these parts, and receiv'd a great addition to their Fortunes by matches with the heirs female of Tichemersh, of the Lords Holland, of D'eyncourt, and the Viscounts Beaumont. But this family was extinct in Francis Viscount Lovel Lord Chamberlain to King Richard [...]rd 3 Ba [...]. 3. who was banisht by Henry 7. and at last slain in the battle of Stoke, taking part with Lambert the impostor Prince. His sister Fridiswide was grandmother to Henry, the first Lord Norris. Passing hence, the Windrush visits Whitney [...]tney. an old town, which before the conquest belong'd to the Bishop of Winchesterd. Near adjoyning is Coges the head of the barony of Arsic, [...]rons of [...]c. the Lords of which, descended from the Earls of Oxford, have been long extinct. Hard by, Wichwood-Forest is of a large extent, though the bounds of it were once much wider: For King Richard 3. disforested a great part of Wichwood between Woodstock and Brighstow, which King Edw. 4. had taken into the limits of that Forest, as we are inform'd by John Rous of Warwick. The river Isis when it has receiv'd the Windrush, passes unto Einsham, Einsham. in Saxone Eignesham, formerly a Royal Ville, seated very commodiously among most delightful meadows. This place Cuthwulph the Saxonf first took from the conquer'd Britains: Aethelmar a noble man adorn'd it with a Monastery, which Ethelred King of England in the year 1005. confirm'd1, and sign'd the privilege of liberty (to keep to the words of the Charter) with the sign of the holy Cross. But this House of Religion is at present turn'd into a private Seat, and belongs to the Earl of Derby. Below Einsham, the Evenlode a small rivulet, runs into the Isis, which flowing from the Cotteswold, in the utmost borders of this County [c], leaves nigh its own banks a great monument of Antiquity, a number of vastly great stones placed in a circular figure, which the Country-people call Rolle-rich stones, Rolle-rich stones. and have a fond tradition, that they were once men thus turn'd into stones. The figure of them, however rudely drawn, I shall here represent to the Readers eye. They are irregular and of unequal height, and by the decays of time are grown ragged and very much impair'd. The highest of them all, which lyes out of the ring toward the east, they call The King; because they fancy he should have been King of England, if he could have seen Long-Compton, a village within view at three or four steps farther: five larger stones, which upon one side of the circle touch one another, they pretend were Knights or Horsmen, and the other common Soldiers. But see the draught.
I should think this monument to have been rais'd in memory of some victory here obtain'd, perhaps by Rollo the Dane, who afterward possest himself of Normandy. For at the same time when he with his Danes and Normans infested England with depredations, we read that the Danes and Saxons had a fight at Hokenorton, and another engagement at Scierstane in Huiccia, g which I should take for that great boundary stone that stands hard by, and divides four Counties or Shires: for so the Saxon word Scierstane does plainly intimate2 [d]. As to Hochnorton, [...]cnor [...]. the inhabitants were formerly such clowns and churls, that it past into a proverb, for a rude and ill-bred fellow, To be born at Hogs-Norton. But this place is chiefly memorable for the fatal slaughter of the English in a fight with the Danes under Edmund the elder [e]. It was afterward a Barony of the D'oily, [...] of [...]ey. an honourable and ancient family of Normandy. The first of that name who came into England, was Robert de Oily, D'oily. who for his great service in that expedition, was rewarded by William the Conquerour with this village and many other lands, some of which he gave to his sworn brotherh Roger Ivery; and this part was afterwards the Barony of St. Walery. Barony of St. Walery. But this Robert deceasing without issue male, his brother Nigel succeeded in his estate, whose son Robert the second was Founder of the Monastery of Osney. Registry of Osney-Abbey. At last an heir female of this family of D'oily was married to Henry Earl of Warwick, by whom she had Thomas Earl of Warwick, who died without issue in the reign of Henry 3. and Margaret who died likewise without issue, though she had two husbands, John Mareschal and John de Plessets, both Earls of Warwick. Upon this (as the Charter of Donation runs) King Henry 3. [Page 255-256] granted Hochnorton and Cudlington to John de Plessets or Plessy, 37 Hen. 3. which were the inheritance of Henry D'oily, and fell into the King's hands upon the death of Margaret Countess of Warwick, wife of the foresaid John, as an escheat of the Lands of the Normans, to have and hold till such time as the Lands of England and Normandy should be made common. But of this ancient and honourable Family of D'oily, there remains still a branch in this County, who have yet the honour of being Knights.
Evenlode runs by no other place remarkable3; but after a long course takes in a small brook, upon which is seated Woodstock, Woodstock in Saxon Wudestoc, i.e. a woody place, where King Etheldred heretofore held an assembly of the States, and enacted several Laws. Here was a magnificent palace built by K. Hen. 1. [f] who adjoyn'd to it a large Park enclos'd with a wall of stone. Which John Rous affirms to have been the first Park in England,First Park in England. though we meet with these words, Parca sylvestris bestiarum, several times in Doomsday-book. But afterwards they encreas'd to so great a number, that there were computed more in England than in all the Christian world besides; so great delight did our Ancestors take in this noble sport of hunting. Our Histories report that King Henry 2. being deeply enamour'd with Rosamund Clifford, whose extraordinary beauty and other great accomplishments, drove the thoughts of all other women from his heart, and made her commonly call'd Rosa mundi, the Rose of the world; to secure her from the restless jealousie of his Juno Queen, built in this place a Labyrinth,Labyrinth. where the many windings and turnings made an inextricable maze: yet at present we see no remains of it. The town having now nothing else to be proud of, does boast of the honour of being theAlumnus suus. J [...]ffrey Chaucer. birth-place of our English Homer, Jeffrey Chaucer: To whom, and some other of our English Poets, I may apply what the learn'd Italian sung of Homer and other Greeks.
For he defying every rival in wit, and leaving all our Poetasters at a long distance from him,
The Isis, when i [...] has taken in the Evenlode, divides its own Ch [...]nel, and cuts out many pretty Islands, among which stood Godstow, Godstow. i.e. The place of God, a Nunnery founded by one Ida a rich widow, improv'd and annually endow'd by King John, to the intent those holy Virgins might (according to the devotion of that Age) pray for the Souls of King Henry 2. his Father and Rosamund his Concubine, who was here buried with this rhyming Epitaph;
The Isis, before it's streams are again united, meets with Cherwell, which coming out of Northamptonshire, flows almost thro' the middle of this County. It first watereth Banbury, Banbury. formerly Banesbyrig, where Kynric the West-Saxon overcame the poor Britains (when they fought for their Liberties and Country) in a memorable battel [h]. And in latter times, Richard Nevil Earl of Warwick fighting for the Lancastrian Interest, gave such an absolute defeat to the York party, that he soon after took the distressed King Edward 4. and carry'd him off prisoner [i]. The town, which at present is most famous for making [k] good Cheese, has a Castle built by Alexander Bishop of Lincoln, (for this manour belong'd to that See) who in his way of living consulted more his state and grandeur than his ease and safety, and brought very many mischiefs on himself by his vain and expensive buildings. Give me leave to add one remark, that the coins of Roman Emperours found here, and in the fields adjoyning, are a fair argument for the antiquity of this place5.
I must not here pass by Broughton the seat of Rich. Fienes or Fenis, to whom, and to the heirs of his body, our potent Monarch K. James, in the first year of his reign, granted and confirm'd the name, stile, title, degree, dignity, and honour of Baron of Say and Sele; he being descended in a right line from James Fienes Lord Say and Sele, High Treasurer of England in the reign of Hen. 6.6. The Cherwel, for many miles after it has left Banbury, sees nothing but well cultivated fields, and most delightful meadows; among which stands7 Islip, I [...]. formerly Ghistlipe, the birth-place of King Edward (whom, for his piety and chastity, our Ancestors honour'd with the title of Confessor,) as he himself witnesses in his original charter, whereby he gives this his manour to the Church of Westminster [l]: and at a small distance is Hedindon, Hed [...]d [...] which K. John gave for a Barony to Thomas Basset [m].
At Islip the Cherwel is joyn'd from the east by a small brook which runs byi Burcester, Bur [...]er. in Saxon Burenceaster and Bernaceaster, a town of ancient name, but where I have observ'd nothing of antiquity; only that Gilbert Basset, and Egeline de Courtney his wife, in the reign of Hen. 2. built here a Monastery in honour ofk St. Edburg; and that the Barons Le Strange of Knocking were lately Lords of this place [n]. Toward the west we meet with some few remains of an old deserted Station, which they call Allchester, perhaps instead of Aldchester, Al [...]h [...]t [...]. or the old Castrum [o], thro' which a military way led from Wallingford, as the neighbours believe, to Banbury. They call this Akeman-street-way, Ba [...] m [...]ny [...] A [...] ce [...]er. a ridge whereof does still appear for some miles together on the deep plains of Otmore, often overflow'd in winter [p].
But where the Cherwel flows along with the Isis, and their divided streams make several little sweet and pleasant islands, is seated on a rising vale the most famous University of Oxford, O [...]. in Saxon Oxenford, our most noble Athens, the seat of the English Muses, the prop and pillar, nay the sun, the eye, the very soul of the nation: the most celebrated fountain of wisdom and learning, from whence Religion, Letters, and good Manners, are happily diffus'd thro' the whole Kingdom. A delicate and most beautiful city, whether we respect the neatness of private buildings, or the stateliness of publick structures, or the healthy and pleasant situation. For the plain on which it stands is walled in, as it were, with hills of wood, which keeping out on one side the pestilential south-wind, on the other, the tempestuous west, admit only the purifying east, and the north that disperses all unwholsome vapours. From which delightful situation, Authors tell us it was heretofore call'd Bellositum. Some writers fancy this city, in the British times, had the name of Caer Vortigern and Caer-Vember, and was built by God knows what Vortigerns or Memprics. Whatever it was under the Britains, it is certain the Saxons call'd it Oxenford, in [Page 257-258] the same meaning, no doubt, as the Grecians had their Bosphorus, and the Germans their Ochenfurt upon the river Oder; that is, a ford of Oxen. In which sense it is still call d by the Welsh Rhid-Ychen. Yet Mr. Leland, with some shew of probability, derives the name from the river Ous, in Latin Isis, and believes it to have been heretofore call'd Ousford, especially since the little islands which the river here makes, are call'd Ousney.
Wise Antiquity (as we read in our Chronicles) even in the British age, consecrated this place to the Muses, whom they transplanted hither, as to a more fertile nursery, froml Greek-lade, now a small town in Wiltshire. Alexander Necham writes thus, Italy does challenge the glory of Civil Law; Divinity and the Liberal Arts make Paris preferable to all other cities; Wisdom too and Learning have long flourish'd at Oxford; [...] 2. de [...] re [...] ▪ and according to the prophecy of Merlin, shall in due time pass over thence to Ireland. But in the following Saxon age, remarkable for the continual ruin and subversion of towns and cities, this place underwent the common fate; and during many years, was famous for nothing but the reliques of St. Frideswide, [...]eswide. a virgin of great esteem for the sanctity of her life, and first reputed a Saint on this occasion; that when by a solemn vow she had devoted her self to the service of God and a single life, Earl Algar courted her for a wife, and pursuing her in her flight, was miraculously (as the story goes) struck blind. This Lady (as we read in William of Malmesbury) built here a Religious house as a trophy of her preserv'd virginity, into which Monastery, when in the time of Ethelred several Danes sentenc'd to death were fled for refuge, the enraged Saxons burnt them and the house together. But afterwards the penitent King cleans'd the Sanctuary, rebuilt the Monastery, restor'd the old endowment, and added new possessions: and at last Roger Bishop of Salisbury gave the place to m a very learned Canon Regular, who there setled a perpetual society of such Regular Canons for the service of God. But leaving these matters, let us return to the University. The Danish storms being pretty well blown over, 886 the pious Prince K. Aelfred restor'd the Muses (who had suffer'd a long exile) to their former habitation, and built three Colleges, one for Grammarians, another for Philosophers, and a third for Divinity [q]. But you have a larger account of this in the old Annals of the Monastery of Winchester: In the year of our Lord's incarnation 1306, in the second year of St. Grimbald's coming over into England, the University of Oxford was founded; the first Regents there and Readers in Divinity, were St. Neot an Abbot and eminent Professor of Theology, and S. Grimbald an eloquent and most excellent Interpreter of the holy Scriptures: Grammar and Rhetorick were taught by Asserius a Monk, a man of extraordinary learning: Logick, Musick, and Arithmetick, were read by John, Monk of St. Davids: Geometry and Astronomy were profess'd by John a Monk and Collegue of S. Grimbald, one of a sharp wit and immense knowledge. These Lectures were often honour'd with the presence of the most illustrious and invincible Monarch K. Aelfred, whose memory to every judicious taste shall be always sweeter than honey. Soon after this, as we read in a very fair MS. copy of that Asserius, who was himself at the same time a Professor in this place, there arose a sharp and grievous dissention between Grymbold and those learned men whom he brought hither with him, and the old scholars whom he found here at his coming; for these absolutely refus'd to comply with the Statutes, Institutions, and Forms of reading prescrib'd by Grimbold. The difference proceeded to no great height for the space of three years, yet there was always a private grudge and enmity between them, which soon after broke out with the utmost violence imaginable. To appease these tumults, the most invincible K. Aelfred being inform'd of the faction by a message and complaint from Grymbold, came to Oxford with design to accommodate the matter, and submitted to a great deal of pains and patience to hear the cause and complaint of both parties. The controversie depended upon this; the old Scholars maintain'd, that before the coming of Grymbold to Oxford, learning did here flourish, tho' the Students were then less in number than they had formerly been, by reason that very many of them had been expell'd by the cruel tyranny of Pagans. They farther declar'd and prov'd, and that by the undoubted testimony of their ancient Annals, that good orders and constitutions for the government of that place had been already made by men of great piety and learning, such as Gildas, Melkin, Ninnius, Kentigern, and others, who had there prosecuted their studies to a good old age, all things being then manag'd in happy peace and quiet: and that St. German coming to Oxford, and residing there half a year, what time he went thro' all England to preach down the Pelagian Heresie, did well approve of their rules and orders. The King with incredible humility and great attention heard out both parties, exhorting them with pious and importunate entreaties to preserve love and amity with one another. Upon this he left them, in hopes that both parties would follow his advice, and obey his instructions. But Grymbold resenting these proceedings, retir'd immediately to the Monastery at Winchester, which K. Aelfred had lately founded: and soon after, he got his tomb to be remov'd thither to him, in which he had design'd his bones should be put after his decease, and laid in a vault under the chancel of the church of St. Peters in Oxford; which church the said Grymbold had raised from the ground, of stones hewn and carv'd with great art and beauty.
This happy restauration of Learning receiv'd two or three interruptions in few years. For in the reign of K. Etheldred,n the Danes sack'd and burn'd the city. And soon after, Harold sirnam'dLevipes. Haretoot, was so incens'd against the place for the death of some of his friends in a tumult, and prosecuted his revenge in so barbarous a manner, that the scholars were miserably banish'd from their studies, and the University, a sad spectacle, lay as it were expiring till the time of the Conquerour; when too (as some say) he besieg'd and took this city:o but those who write so, have been impos'd upon by reading in faulty copies Oxonia instead of Exonia. Yet that it was even then a place of study, we may learn from the express words of Ingulph who flourish'd in that age:p I Ingulph being first placed at Westminster, was afterward remov'd to the Study of Oxford, where in the learning of Aristotle I improv'd beyond most of those who were of equal years with me, &c. For what we now call Universities they call'd Studies, as I shall by and by observe. However, about this time the city was so impoverish'd, that whereas (according to the general survey) there were reckon'd within and without the walls 750 houses, besides 24 mansions upon the walls, 500 of 'em were not able to pay the geld or tax. When (to speak from the authority of Domesday-book) this city paid for toll and gable and other customs, yearly to the King, twenty pounds and six sextaries of honey, and to Earl Algar ten pounds. Soon after, Robert de Oili, a noble Norman before-mention'd, when for the reward of his services he had received from the Conquerour a large portion of lands in this county, heq built a castle on the west-side of the City, fortified with large trenches and rampires, and in itr a Parish-Church dedicated to St. George; 1074 to which the Parishioners not having free access, when the Empress Maud was closely besieg'd in this castle by King Stephen, the Chapel of St. Thomasſ hard by was built for that purpose. He is supposed likewise to have beautified the city with new walls, which are now by age sensibly impair'd. Robert his Nephew, son [Page 259-260] of his brother Nigel, Chamberlain to King Hen. 1.t by persuasion of his wife Edith, daughter of Furn, who had been the last Concubine of that Prince, in the island meadows nigh the castle, built Oseny Oseney. Abby, which the ruins of the walls still shew to have been very large. 1129
At the same time (as we read in the Register of the said Abbey of Oseney) Robert Pulein began to read the holy scriptures at Oxford, which were before grown almost out of use in England: which person, after he had much profited the English and French Churches by his good doctrine, was invited to Rome by Pope Lucius 2. and promoted to the dignity of Chancellour of that See. To the same purpose John Rous of Warwick writes thus. By the care of Keng Henry the first, the Lecture of Divinity, which had been long intermitted, began again to flourish, and this Prince built there a new Palace, which was afterward converted by King Edward 2. into a Convent for Carmelite Friers. Butu long before this conversion, was born in that Palace the truly Lion-hearted Prince, King Richard 1. commonly call'd Ceur de Lion, Richard ceur de Lyon. a Monarch of a great and elevated Soul, born for the glory of England and protection of the Christian world, and for the terror and confusion of Pagans and Infidels. Upon whose death a Poet of that age has these tolerable verses:
The City being thus adorn'd with beautiful buildings, many Students began to flock hither as to the common Mart of civility and good letters. So that learning here quickly reviv'd, chiefly through the care of the foresaid Robert Pulein, a man born to promote the interest of the learned world, who spar'd no trouble and pains to cleanse and open the fountains of the Muses (which had been so miserably dried and damm'd up) under the favour and protection of King Henry 1. King Henry 2. and Richard his son, whom I mention'd just before. And he met with such fortunate success in his endeavours, that in the reign of King John, there were three thousand Students in this place, who went away altogether, some to Reading, and some to Cambridge w, when they could no longer bear thex abuses of the rude and insolent Citizens: but when these tumults were appeas'd, they soon after return'd. Then and in the following times, as Divine Providence seem'd to set apart this City for a seat of the Muses, so did the same Providence raise up a great number of excellent Princes and Prelates, who exercis'd their piety and bounty in this place for the promoting and encouraging of Arts and all good Literature. And when King Henry 3. came hither and visited the shrine of S. Frideswide, which was before thought a dangerous crime in any Prince, and so took away that superstitious scruple, which had before hindred several Kings from entring within the walls of Oxford: He here conven'd a Parliament to adjust the differences between him and the Barons, and at that time confirm'd the privileges granted to the University by his Predecessors, and added some new acts of grace and favour. After which the number of learned men so far encreas'd, as to afford a constant supply of persons qualified by divine and humane knowledge for the discharge of offices in Church and State. So that Matthew Paris expresly calls Oxford, The second School of the Church after Paris, nay the very foundation of the Church [r.] For the Popes of Rome had before honour'd this place with the title of an University, which at that time in their decretals they allow'd only to Paris, Oxford, Bononia, and Salamanca. And in the Council of Vienna it was determin'd, That Schools for the Hebrew, Arabic, and Chaldaic tongues should be erected in the Studies of Paris, Oxford, Bononia, and Salamanca (as the most eminent) that the knowledge of those Languages might be hereby propagated and encourag'd: and that out of men of the Catholick Communion, furnisht with sufficient abilities, two should be chosen for the profession of each Tongue. For the maintenance of which Professors in Oxford, all the Prelates in England, Scotland, Ireland and Wales, and all Monasteries, Chapters, Convents, Colleges exempt and not exempt, and all Rectors of Parish-Churches should make a yearly contribution. In which words one may easily observe, that Oxford was the chief School in England, Scotland, Wales and Ireland; and that those places which we now call Academies and Universities, were in former ages fitly call'd Studies:Universi [...] call'd Studies. as St. Hierom speaks of the flourishing Studies of France. Epist. ad R [...]st [...] Mona [...]h [...] For the name of University for publick Schools of Learning, obtain'd first about the reign of King Henry 3. and, if I am not mistaken, this word did not at first so much signifie the place of study, as the Society of Students. But perhaps this may seem out of my road.
Now the worthy Patrons and Favourers of Learning began to furnish the City and Suburbs with stately Colleges,Col [...]eges. Halls, and Schools, and to endow them with ample Revenues, (for before this time the greatest part of the University stood without North-gate.) Then in the reign of King Henry 3. John Baliol of Bernard-castle, who died in the year 1269. Father of John Baliol King of Scots, Book of Mailros. founded Baliol-College [s]. And soon after Walter Merton, Bishop of Rochester, transferr'd the College which he had built in Surrey, to Oxford in the year 1274. endow'd, it and call'd it Merton-College [t]9. Then William Archdeacon of Durham repair'd and restor'd the Foundation of King Alfred, which we now call University-College [u]. About which time the Scholars having been somewhat rude to Otto the Pope's Legate, (or rather his Horse-leach, sent hither to suck the blood of the poor people) they were excommunicated, and treated with great severity. At which time, as Richard of Armagh tells us, there were reckon'd in this University no less than thirty thousand Students. Under King Edward the second, Walter Stapledon Bishop of Exeter built Exeter-College and Hart-Hall [w]; and the King, after his example, a Royal College, commonly call'd Orial [x], and St. Mary-Hall. 1318 About which time the Hebrew tongue began to be read by a Jewish Convert,Regist. Mon. H [...] for whose stipend every Clerk in Oxford contributed one penny for every mark of his Ecclesiastical revenue. After this Queen Philippa wife of King Edward 3. built Queens-College [y]: and Simon Islip Arch-bishop of Canterbury, Canterbury-College. The Scholars now abounding in peace and plenty, grew insolent upon their good fortune, and divided into the factions of the Northern and Southern men, carrying on the quarrel with open arms and all manner of hostility; upon which the Northern-men retir'd to Stanford, and there set up publick Schools. [Page 261-262] But after a few years, when the storm was blown over, and the feuds forgot, they all return'd hither again10, and Statutes were enacted to prohibit all persons from professing at Stanford to the prejudice of Oxford. About that time William Wickam, Bishop of Winchester, built a magnificent Structure call'd New College [z], into which the ripest Lads are every year transplanted from his other College at Winchester 11. Then Richard Angervil, Bishop of Durham, calld Philobiblos, or The Lover of Booksy, began a publick Library. And his Successor Thomas de Hatfield z built Durham-College for the benefit of the Monks of Durham: and Richard Fleming, Bishop of Lincoln, founded Lincoln-College. About the same time the Benedictine Monks12 built Glocester-College at their own proper cost and charges [bb], where were constantly maintain'd two or three Monks of every House of that Order, who afterwards should profess good Letters in their respective Convents13. To speak nothing of the Canons of St. Frideswide, there were erected no less than four beautiful Cells of Friers in the Suburbs, where there often flourisht men of considerable parts and learning. In the next age, during the reign of King Henry 5. Henry Chichely Arch-bishop of Canterbury, founded two eminent Colleges; one of which he dedicated to the memory of All-Souls [cc], and the other to St. Bernard. Not long after William Wainster, Bishop of Winchester, built Magdalen-College, remarkable for building, fine situation, and pleasure of adjoyning groves and walks [dd]. At the same time thea Divinity School D [...]inity School. was erected, a work of such admirable texture and beauty, that the saying of Xeuxis may justly be inscrib'd upon it, It is more easie to envy, than to imitate this work. Publick L brary. And above this School was a Library furnisht with one hundred twenty nine choice Volumes procur'd from Italy at the great expence of Humphrey the Good, Duke of Glocester, a chief Patron and admirer of Learning. But most of these Books are long since embezell'd and converted to private uses14. But now (may all happiness attend the generous design) the worthy Sir Thomas Bodley Th [...]mas B [...]d [...]ey. Kt. formerly a Member of this University, with extraordinary charge, and indefatigable pains, is furnishing a new Library in the same place with the best Books procur'd from all parts of the world: that the University may enjoy a publick Arsenal of Wisdom, and he himself an everlasting honour [ee]. And since it was a good custom of the Ancients in all their Libraries to erect Statues of Gold,P [...]al. 35. c. 2 Silver, or Brass, both to those who had instituted them, and those who had adorn'd them with excellent Writings, that time and Age might not triumph over Benefactors, and that the curiosity of Mankind might be satisfied, while they enquired after men of worth and publick spirit: For this reason the present Chancellor of the University, at the same time providing for the memorial of himself, has in this Library erected a Statue of Sir Thomas Bodley that great friend and patron of Learning with this Inscription:
THOMAS SACKVILLUS DORSETTIAE COMES, SUMMUS ANGLIAE THESAURARIUS, ET HUJUS ACADEMIAE CANCELLARIUS,
THOMAE BODLEIO EQUITI AURATO, QUI BIBLIOTHECAM HANC INSTITUIT, HONORIS CAUSSA PIE POSUIT.
That is,
THOMAS SACKVIL EARL OF DORSET, LORD HIGH TREASURER OF ENGLAND, AND CHANCELLOR OF THIS UNIVERSITY,
PIOUSLY ERECTED THIS MONUMENT, TO THE HONOUR OF SIR THOMAS BODLEY KNIGHT, WHO INSTITUTED THIS LIBRARY.
In the Reign of Henry the Seventh, for the better advancement of Learning, William Smith Bishop of Lincoln, built new out of the Ground Brazen-Nose-College [ff], which wasb well endow'd by the pious and good old man Alexander Nowell Dean of St. Pauls. About the same time Richard Fox, Bishop of Winchester, founded Corpus-Christi-College [gg]. After these, Cardinal Wolsey Arch-bishop of York, on the site of the Monastery of St. Frideswide, began the most noble and ample Foundation of all others15, which King Henry 8. with addition of Canterbury-College, did richly endow, and gave it the name of Christ-Church Christ-Church. [hh]16. The same mighty Prince, at the expence of his own Exchequer, honored the City with an Episcopal See, and the University with publick Professors. And in our own age, that the Muses might still be courted with greater favours, Sir Thomas Pope Kt. and Sir Thomas White Kt. Citizen and Alderman of London, have repair'd Durham and Bernard Colleges (which lay almost buried in their own dust,) have enlarg'd their buildings, endow'd them with lands, and given them new names, dedicating the former to the Holy Trinity [ii], this latter to St. John Baptist [kk]. Queen Mary c built from the ground the publick Schools. And lately Hugh Price Dr. of Laws, has happily laid a new foundation17 call'd in honour of our Saviour, Jesus-College [ll]. These Colleges in number sixteen, beside eight Halls [mm], all fairly built, and well endow'd, together with their excellent and useful Libraries, do so raise the credit and esteem of Oxford, that it may be justly thought to exceed all other Universities in the world [nn]. Nor does it yield the precedence to any in Living Libraries, (for so with Eunapius I may term the men of profound learning,) nor in the admirable method of teaching all Arts and Sciences, nor in excellent discipline, and most regular government of the whole body. But why this digression? Oxford is very far from standing in need of a Panegyric, having already gain'd the universal esteem and admiration of the world. Nor would I by any means seem extravagant in the commendation of my mother University. Let it suffice to say of Oxford, what Pomponius said of Athens, It is so eminent that there needs no pointing at it. But by way of conclusion take this passage, which begins the history of Oxford, from the Proctor's book. Chronicles and Histories do assure us, that several places in different parts of the world, have been famous for the studies of Arts and Sciences. But of all such places of study among the Latins, Oxford appears to be of the most ancient foundation, to profess a greater variety of knowledge, to be more firm in adhering to the Catholick Religion, and to enjoy more good customs, and greater privileges. The Astronomers observe this City to be in twenty two degrees of longitude or distance from the fortunate Islands; and in the northern latitude of fifty one degrees and fifty minutes18.
As soon as Isis and Cherwell have joyn'd their* [Page 263-264] streams below Oxford, the Isis with a swift and deeper current passes on to the south, to find out the Tame, River Tame which it seems long to have sought for. Nor does it run many miles, before the said Tame, rising in the County of Bucks, comes and joyns with it; which river upon entrance into this County, gives its own name to a Market-town of pleasant situation among rivers: for the river Tame washes the north part of the town, and two little brooks slide by it on the east and west sides. This place has been in a flourishing condition ever since Henry Bishop of Lincoln in the reign of Henry 3.Claus. 3 Hen. 3. brought the great road, which lay before upon one side of the town, through the middle of it. Alexander that munificent Bishop of Lincoln, Lord of this Manour, to alleviate the publick odium he had contracted by his extravagant expences in building of Castles, founded here a small Monastery. And many years after, the Quatremans, a Family in former times of great repute in these parts, built here an Hospital for the maintenance of poor people. But neither of these foundations are at present to be seen, though instead of them Sir John Williams Lord Williams of Tame. Kt. (advanced to the dignity of a Peer of this Realm by Queen Mary, under the title of Baron Williams of Tame) has here founded a beautiful School, and an Alms-house [oo]19.
From hence the Tame runs near Ricot, Ricot. a neat seat, which belong'd formerly to the Quatermans, upon whose failure of issue male, it was sold away by the Fowlers and Hernes, till it came at last into the hands of the Lord Williams before-mention'd, and by his daughter to the Lord Henry Norris, Lord Norris. whom Queen Elizabeth advanc'd to the dignity of a Peer, by the title of Baron Norris of Ricot [pp]; a person as well eminent for his honourable descent (being deriv'd from thed Lovels, who were allied to most of the great families in England,) as more especially for his stout and martial sons, whose valour and conduct are sufficiently known in Holland, Portugal, Bretagne, and Ireland. The next place visited by the Tame20 ise Dorchester, Dorchester. call'd by Bede Civitas Dorciniae, and by Leland Hydropolis, which is a name of his own invention, but well adapted to the nature of the place, Dour signifying water in the British tongue. That this was formerly a station of the Romans, several of their Coins found frequently in this place do sufficiently attest: and our Histories tell us it was once a Bishop's See, founded by Birinus the Apostle of the West-Saxons; who having baptiz'd Cinigilse a petty King of the West-Saxons (to whom Oswald King of Northumberland was Godfather,) the two Kings (as Bede tells us) gave the Bishop this City to constitute here his Episcopal See. This Birinus (as we learn from the same Bede) wasf esteem'd in that age as a miracle of piety and strictness of life: whence an old Poet, who wrote his life in verse, does thus extol him;
This See after four hundred and sixty years continuance, (lest the name and authority of a Bishop might grow contemptible from so mean and inconsiderable a place, against which a Council of Bishops hadg lately provided) was translated to Lincoln by Remigius in the time of William the Conquerour. At which time (says William of Malmsbury who flourisht in that age) Dorchester was a small and unfrequented village, yet the beauty and state of its Churches was very remarkable, as well for the ancient work, as the present care taken of them. After this removal of the Bishop's Chair it began sensibly to decay, and of late the great road to London which lay through the town, being turn'd another way, it is so weakned and impoverisht, that though it was formerly a city, it scarce now deserves the name of a town. Nor has it any thing to boast of but the ruins of its former greatness, of which we find some signs and tokens in the adjacent fields [qq]. Near this place Tame and Isis with mutual consent joyn as it were in wedlock, and mix their names as well as their waters; beingh henceforth call'd Tham-Isis or the Thames, Tame and Isis joyn. in like manner as the rivers Jor and Dan in the Holy Land, and Dor and Dan in France, from which composition are Jordan and Dordan. This seems to have been first observ'd by the Author of the Eulogium Historiarum. Of the marriage of Tame and Isis I present you here with some verses from a Poem of that title, which you may read or pass over as you please.
And after a few other verses:
And after some verses interpos'd, the Poet proceeds;
Hence the Thames passes on to Benson, Benson. formerly Bensington, which Marian calls a royal Vill; and reports it took from the Britains by Ceaulin in the year 572, andi possest by the West-Saxons for 200 years following. But then Offa King of Mercia thinking both his interest and reputation concern'd, that they should hold nothing on this side the river,k won this town by force, and joyn'd it to his own kingdom. At present it is a small village, and shews at a little distance from it a house of our Kings, which has been formerly a beautiful structure, but is now much decay'd by reason of the unhealthy situation near low and wet groud. This seat, call'd Ewelme, Ewelme. commonly New elme, from the Elms here growing, was built by William de la Pole Duke of Suffolk, who, by marriage with Alice only daughter of Thomas Chaucer, obtain'd a large estate in these parts; and besides this house, built a neat Church (in which the said Alice lies interr'd) and al fair Hospital. But John Earl of Lincoln21, his grandchild by John his son, in a manner utterly ruin'd this family. For being engag'd in a conspiracy against K. Hen. 7. his honours were lost by attainder, and his estate confiscated to the King, and he himself soon after slain in battel22. After this, K. Hen. 8. with the addition of some neighbouring manours, made an Honour of this estate: among these manours was Walingford, which had long time pertained to the Dukes of Cornwall [rr].
From hence the Thames fetches a large and winding compass round the Hundred of Henley, hilly and woody, which some think to have been the country of the Ancalites, Ancalites. who submitted themselves to Caesar23. In this Hundred standsm Greys Rotherfield, Grey de Rotherfield. where is a noble house, given heretofore by Walter Grey Archbishop of York, to his Nephew William G [...]ey, whose estate fell to the Lovels by the Lord D'eincourt. It is now the seat of William KnollesLord Knolles. Treasurer of his Majesty's houshold, whom King James, in consideration of his faithful services to Queen Elizabeth, and his readiness to perform the like to him, advanc'd to the honour and title of Knolles Baron of Rotherfield. Near this place, upon the Thames, in the utmost limits of the County, stands Henley Henley. formerly Hanleganz, where the greatest part of the inhabitants are Barge-men, and get their livelyhood by carrying wood and corn to London by water. This town has nothing ancient to boast of, only that it belong'd formerly to the Molins; from whom, by the Hungerfords (who obtain'd from K. Hen. 6. a licence for two fairs yearly) it descended to the illustrious family of the Hastings. The bridge over the Thames, which is now of timber, they report to have been heretofore of stone, [Page 267-268] and arched. But whether this was the bridge which Dio makes the Romans to have pass'd over in pursuit of the Britains in these parts,Xiphiline. who had forded the river a little lower; is not so easie to determine [ss].
From Henly the Chiltern-hills run into a continued ridge to the north, and separate this County of Oxon from that of Bucks: at the foot whereof are seated many little towns, of which the most remarkable are Watlington a small Market-town, belonging formerly to Robert D'oily [tt]. Shirburne, Shirburne. where was heretofore a small Castle of the Quatremans, now a seat of the Chamberlains, descended from the Earls of Tankervil, who bearing the office of Chamberlain to the Dukes of Normandy, their posterity, laying aside the old name of Tankervil, call'd themselves Chamberlains from the said office, which their Ancestors enjoy'd24.
The title of Earl of Oxford Earls of Oxford. has long flourisht in the family of Vere, who derive their pedigree from the Earls of Guisnes, and their name from the town of Vere in Zealand. They owe the beginning of their greatness in England to K. Henry the first, who advanced Alberic de Vere for his great prudence and integrity to several places of honour and profit; as to be Chamberlain of England, and Portreve of the City of London: and to his son Henry Duke of Normandy (son of the daughter of King Henry, and right heir to England and Normandy, this was the title he used before his establishment in this kingdom) to divert him from King Stephen, who had usurpt the Crown, and to oblige him to his own party, he granted and restor'd the office of Chamberlain which he had lost in those civil wars, and offer'd him the choice of these four Earldoms, Dorset, Wilts, Berks, and Oxon. And after this, Maud the Empress, and her son Henry, then in possession of the Throne, by their several Charters created him Earl of Oxford. Of his posterity, not to mention every particular person, the most eminent were these that follow: Robert de Vere, who being highly in favour with King Richard the second, was by him advanct to the new and unheard of honours of Marquess of Dublin, and Duke of Ireland, of which he left (as one well observes) nothing but some gaudy titles to be inscribed upon his tomb, and matter of discourse and censure to the world. For soon after, through the envy of the other Courtiers, he was degraded, and miserably ended his life in banishment.25 John de Vere, a man of great ability and experience in the arts of war, and as eminent for his constant fidelity to the Lancastrian party, fought often in the field against K. Edward the fourth, for some time defended St. Michael's mount, and was the chief assistant to King Henry the seventh in obtaining the Crown. Another John in the reign of Henry the eighth, in all parts of his life so temperate, devout, and honest, that he was distinguisht by the name of John the Good. He was great Grandfather to the present Earl Henry, the eighteenth Earl of this family, and Grandfather to the two noble Brothers Francis and Horatio Vere, who by their admirable courage and military conduct, and their many brave and fortunate exploits in the Low-Countries, have added no small lustre to their ancient and honourable family.
This County contains 280 Parish Churches.
ADDITIONS to OXFORDSHIRE.
[a] THE County of Oxford, call'd by the more early Saxons Oxna-ford-scyre, and afterwards Oxen-ford-scyre, does by its situation (particularly the north-east parts of it, Otmore and the adjacent places) exactly answer the original ofSee Camd. at the beginning Glocestershire. Dobuni, as lying low and level. Though most parts of it bear corn very well, yet its greatest glory is the abundance of meadows and pastures, to which the rivers add both pleasure and convenience. For beside the five more considerable ones, the Thames, Isis, Cherwell, Evenlode, and Windrush, Plot. p. 18. it has at least threescore and ten of an inferiour rank, without including the smaller brooks. What our Author says of the hills being clad with woods, is so much alter'd by the late Civil wars, that few places (except the Chiltern-country) can answer that character at present: for fuel is in those parts so scarce, that 'tis commonly sold by weight, not only at Oxford, but other towns in the northern parts of the shire.
[b] To follow our Author; Burford, Bu [...]ford. in Saxon Beorgford (not Beorford,) as it is famous for the battel mention'd by our Author (fought probably on the pla [...]e call'd Battle-edge, west of the town;) so also for a Council conven'd there by the Kings Etheldred and Berthwald, An. 685. at which among many others Aldhelm Abbot of Malmsbury, afterwards Bishop of Shirburne, being present, was commanded by the Synod to write a Book against the error of the Brittish Churches in the observation of Easter. Which I the rather take notice of here, because Sir Henry Spelman calls it only Synodus Merciana, An. 705. without fixing any certain place, or the exact time: whereas both are evident fromDe Pontif. lib. 5. Malmsbury, and the Leiger-book of that Abby.
There has been a Custom in the townPlot. p. 349. of making a Dragon yearly, and carrying it up and down the streets in a great jollity on Midsummer-eve; which is the more remarkable, because it seems to bear some relation to what our Author says of Cuthred's taking from the enemy a banner wherein was painted a golden Dragon: only, to the Towns-men's Dragon there is a Giant added; for what reason not known.
[c] Next is Ensham, Ensham in Saxon Egonesham, the eminence whereof in those times is confirm'd by the early mention of it, and by Aethelred's Charter mention'd by our Author, which terms it Locus celebris. Here it was that in the year 1009. the same King Aethelred (by the advice of Alphege Arch-bishop of Canterbury, and Wulstan Arch-bishop of York) held a General Council, wherein many Decrees were establisht relating to the government of Church and State; it is call'd byConcil. [...]. [...]. p. 510. Sir Henry Spelman, Aenham.
[c] Our next guide is the river Evenlode, not far from which, near Chastleton, is a Fortification, which the learned Dr. Plot imagines might be cast up about the year 1016. when Edmund Ironside met Canute the Dane;Ch [...]st [...]eton▪ but if that conjecture be built purely upon its being near the Four-shire-stone (which generally goes for the old dceorstan where the battle was fought) the place of the battle being (See A [...] to W [...]tshire, unde [...] Sh [...]r [...], as it probably ought) remov'd from this place, that opinion is destroy'd.
[d] More to the North is the Monument of Roll-rich, R ll-rich-stones. Plot. p. [...] a single Circle of stones without Epistyles or Architraves, and of no very regular figure. [...] ▪ Except one or two, the rest of them are not above four foot and a half high. What the occasion of this monument might be, is not hinted to by any Inscription upon the stones, or by any other marks about them: which seems to make it probable at least that it was not erected in memory of any persons that were bury'd there. For if so, we might hope (See C [...] w [...]ll. p [...]. & 23. as in other places of this kingdom) to meet with a Cross or something of that kind implying the design, if Christian; but if Pagan, one would expect to find barrows at some small distance. Besides, that curious Antiquary Ralph Sheldon Esq making a diligent search in the middle, after any thing that might lead us to the first design of it, and particularly bones; found himself disappointed. Though if we may [Page 269-270] take an estimate of this from another of the like nature, the bones (if there are any) may more probably be met with without the circleSee Wilts under Ky [...]., as they were some years ago at a little distance from that at Kynet in Wiltshire, and have been formerly at the famous Stone-henge.
How true soever our Author's opinion of its being erected in memory of some victory, may be in the main; yet the relation he makes it have to Rollo the Dane, will not agree with the engagement either at Hokenorton or Sceorstan. For the Saxon-Annals tell us, that it was in 876. this Rollo made inroads into Normandy, and that was after he had been in England; whereas the battle of Hokenorton was in 917. and that of Sceorstan a hundred years after this. Nor does that passage of Walsingham, telling us of the assistance which Rollo sent to King Athelstan, and ininsisted upon by a later Author; clearly take away the difficulty: unless we can suppose (what is hardly to be imagin'd) that Rollo could be of age to plunder England in the year 875. to make incursions into Normandy, in 876. and the same Rollo live to assist King Athelstan, who came not to the Crown till the year 925. But if this rub did not lay in the way, and the matter of fact were suppos'd to be true; yet unless it appear'd at the same time that the suppos'd defeat was in those parts, there is nothing to support the conjecture beside the bare affinity of names.
What our Author observes of the common story about the King and his Army, though it be upon the whole ridiculous enough, yet may it (as we very often find in such traditional tales) have something of truth at the bottom. For why may not that large stone at a little distance, which they call the King, be the Kongstolen belonging to the Circle of stones rais'd usually for the Coronation of the Northern Kings (as Wormius informs us:) especially since the learnedSee Nat. Hi [...] Oxon. p. [...]. Dr. Plot has observ'd from the same Wormius, that this Kongstolen, though ordinarily in the middle, was yet sometimes at a distance from the Circle?
[e] Not far from hence is Hokenorton, H [...]kenorton. which Florence of Worcester calls Villa Regia, i.e. a Royal Village; and makes the battle, mention'd by our Author, to be in the year 914. contrary to Brompton and Huntingdon, who tell us it was An. 911. and to the Saxon Chronicle, which has it in 917. The barrows of Tadmerton and Hookenorton [...]id. p. 334, the former large and round; the other smaller, and rather a quinquangle than a square, were probably cast up upon this occasion; the round one by the Danes, and the square by the Saxons.
South from hence is Great-Tew, G [...]eat Tew. [...]d p. 327. near which was plough'd up an Opus Tessellatum, or pavement cut into squares, somewhat bigger than dice, and of four different colours, blew, white, yellow, and red, all polish'd and orderly dispers'd into works. As was another at Steeple-Aston hard by, which consisted likewise of squares of divers colours, and set in curious figures; though not cubick, like the former, but oblong squares.
[f] More to the south is Woodstock, Wo [...]dstock. where our Author observes King Henry 1. built a Royal palace. But not to insist upon King Etheldred's calling a Council there, it must have been a Royal Seat long before King Henry's time, since it was here that King Aelfred translated Boëtius de Consolatione Philosophiae, as Dr. Plot has observ'd out of a MS. in the Cottonian Library.
[g] And Godstow, Godstow. where the Religious-house was built by Ida; but her name was really Editha, an eminent and devout matron, who upon a plot of ground given by John de S. John, erected it at her own charge: and at the latter end of December An. 1138. it was dedicated by Alexander Bishop of Lincoln, to the honour of the Virgin Mary and St. John Baptist. The additional endowment, here mention'd by King John, may probably be a mistake for Richard 1. who we find in the first year of his reign gave a large Charter to this Abbey. If it be an error, 'tis likely it arose from Thomas Walsingham's attributing the whole foundation to King John, and the occasion of it to a prophecy of Merlin.
[h] The next river that flows into the Thames is Cherwell; near which is Banbury, B [...]nuury. made famous by our Author for the Victory of Kinric. But if the Saxon name of the place be (as he tells us) Banesbyrig, it cannot lay claim to this battle, which the Saxon-Annals expresly say was at Beranbyrig; and this we have prov'dSee p. 112. before to be most probably in Wiltshire. But wherever it was fought, the success of it does not seem to belong so entirely to the Saxons, as Mr. Camden intimates. 'Tis true, before that, they had been too hard for the Britains in several engagements: but here all the strength of this people in the midland parts, was united, and they were so numerous as to divide their army into nine battalions; so that by the assistance of their numbers and resolution, our Historians confess they bore up so well, that when night came, the battle was depending. And 'tis more than probable, if our Writers would but speak out, that they had the better of the Saxons at this turn. For whereas this happen'd in 556. we find they held their garrisons in this County till the year 571, or as some Writers say, 580. which they could hardly be supposed to do, had the victory been so compleat. But what seems of greatest moment in this matter, is the manner by which the Saxon Chronicle delivers this engagement. The only objection perhaps that lyes aganst the authority of it, is partiality to the Saxons against the poor Britains, in the course of those wars; and yet upon this occasion it is content barely to tells us,Chron. Sax. Sub. An. 556. that Cynric and Ceawlin fought with the Britains at Beranbyrig▪ which (as we may gather from other Instances) had not likely been let go without express mention of the victory, if it had fell to the share of the Saxons.
[i] The battle between the Houses of York and Lancaster, was fought on a fair plain call'd Danesmore nigh Edgcot in the County of Northampton, within three miles of Banbury. But neither here do our Historians tells us, the fortune of the day was decisive; but the Earl of Pembroke and Lord Stafford taking up their quarters at Banbury, quarrel'd for an Inn; which gave the Earl of Warwick an opportunity to set upon them, and to take the Earl of Pembroke and Sir Richard Herbert prisoners; who were barbarously beheaded. So after, upon a treacherous overture of peace, the Earl of Warwick surpris'd the King at Wolvey, and carried him Prisoner to Warwick.
[k] There is a credible story, that while Philemon Holland was carrying on his English edition of this Britannia, Mr. Camden came accidentally to the Press, when this sheet was working off; and looking on, he found that to his own observation of Banbury being famous for Cheese, the Translator had added Cakes and Ale. But Mr. Camden thinking it too light an expression, chang'd the word Ale into Zeal; and so it pass'd to the great indignation of the Puritans of this town.
[l] Upon the same river lyes Islip, Islip. call'd in the Pipe-rolls of Henry 2. Hiltesleape, in a Charter of Henry 2. Ileslepe, and in a Presentation of the Abbey of Westminster, 6 Henr. 3. Ighteslep. We meet with nothing of the Original Charter mention'd by our Author, in Dugdale; notwithstanding which Dr. Plot is enclin'd to believe there was really such an one extant, and a palace here, from the footsteps of that ancient building, and of the Chapel; as also the Town's still belonging to the Church of Westminster. But of late, the Saxon-Copy of the greatest part of it has been discover'd by that excellent Antiquary Mr. Kennet, who designs shortly to publish this (among many other Original Instruments) in his Parochial Antiquities of Ambrosden, Burcester, &c. The place is there call'd Giðslepe, which is easily melted into Islep or Islip, by casting away the initial G. in the same manner that Gypesƿic is changed into Ipswich, and Gifteley near Oxford into Isley.
In the Chapel there, which is call'd the King's Chapel, there stood not many years since a Font, the very same (as Tradition has constantly deliver'd it down) wherein Edward the Confessor was baptiz'd. But this, being put to an indecent use, as well as the Chapel, was at last piously rescu'd from it, and remov'd [Page 271-272] to the garden of Sir Henry Brown Baronet, of Nether Riddington in this County.
The Church continues in the patronage of the Dean and Chapter of Westminster; the present Rector is Dr. Robert South, who at his own expence has built a new decent Chancel, a beautiful Parsonage-house, a spacious Barn, &c. to the interest of the Church, the credit of the Clergy, and his own immortal honour.
[m] Next is Hedindon, Hedindon. which tradition says was in the Saxon times a nursery of the King's children: and it seems likewise to have had a Royal seat where K. Ethelred resided; particularly, when he granted a Charter to the Monastery of S. Frideswide, wherein the date is thus mention'd, (This privilege was idith in Heddington,) and afterward in Latin (Scripta fuit haec cedula jussu praefati Regis in villa R [...]gia quae— appellatur.) Another argument of a Royal seat here, was a Free-Chapel, exempt from all customs due to the Bishop of Lincoln and Archdeacon of Oxford; which Maud the Empress confirm'd to the Church of St. Frideswide.
[n] Hence going by Weston, Weston. the seat of Sir Edward Norris, we come to Burcester, Burcester. where is a fair and spacious Church; and in the division of Kingsend stands a pleasant and convenient seat of Mr. John Coker Lord of that manour. Most of the lands in Market-end are part of the estate of Sir William Glynne Baronet, whose beautiful seat is within two miles, at Ambrosden; where the Parish-Church is neat and well-adorn'd, and the Vicarage house adjoyning of great strength and good prospect, built in the year 1638. at the sole charge of Dr. John Stubbing, the then worthy Vic [...]r.
[o] A little way from hence is Alchester, Alchester. the bounds of which quadrangular Camp or garrison are still visible; tho' the area or site of it has been for a long time a part of the common field of Wendlebury. The reason of the name is an evidence of it's Antiquity, whether we make it (with our Author) Aldchester, or Allecti castrum, from the Roman Allectus; an opinion ingeniously deliver'd, and maintain'd with much shew of truth in a short History of Alchester, the original MS. whereof is in the hands of the learned and pious Mr. Samuel Blackwell, B. D. late Vicar of Burcester, now Rector of Brampton in the County of Northampton.
[p] But a better mark of it's Antiquity is the situation upon the Akemanstreat, Akemanstreet. the Consular way, which does not (as our Author has it) pass thither through Otmore; but coming down from Tuchwic-grounds in the common road from Ailsbury to Bisiter, and passing over that marshy vale, which gave name to the neighbouring town of Mersh, it leaves there some tracts of a stony ridge yet visible and useful, and crosses the rivulet at Worden-pool or Steanford; where it enters the County of Oxford and parish of Ambrosden, whence it ascends to Blackthorn-hill, and passing cross Wrechwic green, extends on the northside of Gravenhull wood, over the brook at Langford, and so leads close by the north-bounds of Alchester, as far as Chesterton:Plot p. 319. whence it goes to Kirtlington towns end, and so over Cherwell near Tackley to Woodstock park, which it enters near Wooton-gate, and passes out again at Mapleton-well near Stunsfield-stile, whence it holds on again as far as Stunsfield; and all this way in a rais'd b [...]nk. But here breaking off (tho' still keeping it's name) it goes over the Evenlode to Wilcot, and so to Ramsden: a little beyond which village, at a place call'd Witty-green, it may be seen again for a little way; but from thence to Astally, over Astal-bridge, and so through the fields till it comes to Brodwell-grove, it is scarce visible; but there 'tis as plain again as any where else, holding a strait course into Glocestershire, and so towards Bathe, the old Akeman-ceaster.
There is indeed, an old way which seems to have lead from Alchester to Wallingford, part whereof is to be seen at this day running quite cross Otmore; but is not by any means the Akemanstreat, tho' the people hereabouts call it by that name: and this error of theirs seems to have made our Author fix upon the wrong road. There are in this County several branches running from this great road, which are describ'd at large by the curious Dr. Plot in his natural History of this County; to whom I refer the Reader for a more distinct Information.
At a little distance is Merton, Me [...]. where was found a Danish spur, answering the figure of that in [...] l. 1. [...] p. [...] Olaus Wormius; which, together with the meeting of two military ways near it, induc'd a late Author to believe that this is the very place where Aethelred and Aelfred fought with the Danes, in the year 871.
[q] Our next place is Oxford, Oxf [...] the oldest Saxon name whereof is Oxnaford. The Antiquity of this famous place has deservedly employ'd several eminent pens; and to give so much as an Abridgement of the Controversie between the two Universities in this point, as it would b [...] extreme difficult, so would it be too large for a work of this general nature. Let it be sufficient for us, to follow our Author by the light of clear History from the time of King Alfred; who (as he observes) built here three Colleges. He seems to have had the story from John Rouse of Warwick; who farther asserts, that the first was founded at the East-end of High-street, endow'd with competent Salaries for 26 Grammarians, and call'd Little-University-Hall: the second in School-street, for the maintenance of 26 Students in Logick and Philosophy, and call'd the Less-University-Hall: and the third in High street, near to the first, but higher to the West, with endowment for 26 Divines, and call'd Great-University-Hall, now University-College.
[r] The occasion upon which Matthew Paris gave the University such an honourable title, An. 1256. was the Bishop of Lincoln's encroaching upon the Liberties of the University. Whereupon they sent Delegates to the King at St. Albans; to whom he made this remarkable Address in behalf of them▪ Domine pro Domino curam habe de Ecclesia jam vacillante. Universitas enim Parisiensis, tot altrix & magistra sanctorum Praelatorum, non mediocriter perturbatur. Si similiter uno tempore perturbetur Oxoniensis Universitas, cum sit schola secunda Ecclesiae, imo Ecclesiae fundamentum, timendum est vehementer ne Ecclesia tota ruinam patiatur.
[s] The design of Baliol College B [...]li [...]l College. was only laid by Sir John Baliol, who settl'd yearly Exhibitions upon some scholars, till he should provide them a fit house and other accommodations. And at his death, a little before Whitsuntide, An. 1269. he recommended to his wife and Executors this pious project. Upon which, his Relict Dervorguill settl'd those Exhibitioners in a Tenement which she hir'd of the University in Horsmunger-street now Canditch, and prescrib'd Statutes for their government, An. 1282. Afterwards in the year 1284. she purchas'd another tenement near the same place, call'd Mary's Hall; and when she had repair'd it, the Society were here settl'd by her Charter, confirm'd by her son Sir John de Baliol, afterwards King of Scots, and by Oliver B. of Lincoln.
[t] Merton Merton College was first founded at Maldon in Surrey, in the year 1264. and being translated to St. John Baptist street in Oxford, An. 1267. receiv'd the last Statutes of the wise Founder in the year 1274.
[u] The restoring of K. Alfred's Foundation is by Stow and Holinshed ascrib'd to William Caerliph B. of Durham, in the reign of William the Conquerour: and by Leland as falsly to William Shirwood Chancellour of Lincoln. But our Author has here rightly assign'd it to William Archdeacon of Durham, who dying in the year 1249. left 310 marks to the Chancellour and Masters of the UniversityUnivers [...]y. for the maintenance of 10, 11, or 12. Masters; with which money, about 30 years after the Donor's death, a Society was here establish'd An. 1280. and their Statutes prescrib'd by the University in the year 1292.
[w] Walter Stapledon B. of Exeter,Exete [...]. upon his first design of a Foundation for Scholars, purchas'd Hart-Hall and Arthur-Hall in the year 1314. and there instituted a Society for a Rector and 12 Scholars. But finding the place too narrow for his design, he bought ground for a new site in the Parish of S. Mildred, and having built convenient Lodgings, translated his Society to this house, call'd at first Stapledon's-Inn, then Exeter-College.
[x] The honour of the Foundation of Oriel Oriel. College is attributed to K. Edw. 2. tho' he did little more than [Page] grant Licence to Adam de Brom his Almoner (Apr. 20. 1324.) to build and endow a College to be call'd by the name of S. Maries house. To this Society K. Edw. 3 in the first of his reign, gave a Tenement call'd Le Oriele; on which ground stands the College so called. The present St. Mary-Hall was a long time the Parsonage-house to the Rectors of St. Maries; which Church, with it's appurtenances, being appropriated by K. Edw. 2. An. 1325. to the College then founded by Adam de Brom, the house came also into their possession, and was soon after allotted to the residence of Students.
[y] Queens [...]ens. College owes it's name to Queen Philippa, but it's Foundation to her Chaplain Robert de Eglesfield Rector of Burgh under Stanmore in Westmorland; who, by the Queen's favour, in the year 1340. purchas'd the ground and erected a Collegiate-Hall to be call'd Aula Scholarium Reginae de Oxon. The Revenues of it have been much improv'd by several Benefactors; and there is now, under the government of Dr. Timothy Halton, a very stately Library in building. It was begun upon occasion of the Legacy of Dr. Thomas Barlow the late learned Bishop of Lincoln, and formerly Provost of this College, who by Will bestow'd upon it the greatest part of his Books; giving the rest to Bodley's Library, whereof he had been Keeper.
[z] That munificent Prelate William de Wickham l [...]id the design of New-College [...]- [...]ege. in the year 1369. and having at several times purchas'd ground sufficient for it, obtain'd the King's Licence, June 30. An. 1379. 3 Rich. 2. and on the 5th of March following, laid himself the first stone. It was finish'd An. 1386. wherein, Apr. 14. the Warden and Fellows were admitted with solemn Procession.
[...]coln.[aa] Lincoln-College was begun An. 1427. 6 Hen. 6. for a Seminary of Divines to confute the Doctrines of Wicliff; slightly endow'd only with the Appropriation of 3 Parish Churches in Oxford: and therefore wanted another Founder, Thomas Rotheram Bishop of Lincoln, who in the year 1475. finish'd the building of the College, enereas'd their Reven [...]es, and gave them Statutes An. 1479.
[bb] This Glocester-College [...]cester- [...]. was not built, as our Author affirms, at the charge of the Monks, but by John Giffard Baron of Brimsfield, who in the 11 Ed. 1. for the good of his soul and that of Maud de Longspe his wife, founded this Cell for the maintenance of 13 Monks from the Ben [...]dictine Convent of Glocester. At the suppression of Religious-houses, it was given by Hen. 8. for a Palace to the Bishops of Oxford; but reverting to the Crown, was at last purchas'd by Sir Tho. White, Founder of St. John's; and being transmitted to the use of Principal and Scholars, is now call'd Glocester-Hall.
[...]ouls.[cc] All-souls College was begun by Henry Chicheley (after the Foundation of a College and Hospital at Higham-Ferrers, the place of his nativity) in the year 1437. He endow d it for a Warden and 40 Fellows, chiefly with the lands of Priories-Alien dissolv'd in 2 Hen. 5.
[...]alen's.[dd] Magdalen College was founded An. 1458. on the site and lands of the dissolv'd Hospital of S. John's, with so large endowments, and such conveniences of all kinds, that it is justly esteem'd one of the most noble Foundations in the Christian World.
[...]ck [...]ry.[ee] The design of the publick-Library was first laid by Sir Thomas Bodley Kt. in the year 1597. By him the old Library of Duke Humphrey was repair'd, and fitted for the reception of books, 1599. and an additional East-Gallery begun in the year 1610. Another Gallery on the West, projected by him, was rais'd, with a House of Convocation under it, An. 1638. But all these being now too narrow to contain the vast accession of Books, there have been new Galleries erected over each side of the middle Isle, chiefly to receive the generous Legacy of Thomas Barlow Lord Bishop of Lincoln, who had been elected Keeper of this Library, An. 1652. When one views the Catalogue of printed Books by Dr. Hyde, and the other of Manuscripts by Dr. Bernard, he must admire the prodigious treasure, and neither envy Rome her Vatican, nor India her gold.
[ff] Brazen-nose Brazen-nose College (so call'd from a Hall distinguish'd by that name) was founded by William Smith Bishop of Lincoln and Richard Sutton Esquire, 3 Hen. 8. It is of late years adorn'd with a beautiful Chapel, Library, and Cloysters, the elegant structure whereof was begun in the year 1656, and the Chapel consecrated by the Bishop of Oxford An. 1666.
[gg] The Foundation of Corpus Christi Corpus Christi. College was design'd by that great Prelate and wise Politician Richard Fox, for a Seminary of Monks to the Priory of S. Swithin in Winchester, An. 1513. But diverted from that, and assisted by Hugh Oldham Bishop of Exeter, he establish'd it for a Society of Students, An. 1516. with Endowments so ample, and Statutes so admirable, as have made very many of it's members men of singular piety and learning.
[hh] As for Christ Church; Christ-Church. after Cardinal Wolsey had procur'd from Pope Clement 7. a Bull for dissolving 22 Religious-houses, and converting them to the use of two Colleges (one to be founded at Ipswich his place of nativity; the other at Oxford, to which he ow'd his education) he obtain'd the Kings Licence to institute a College on the site of the Priory of St. Frideswide, to be call'd Cardinal-College, which he first design'd for a Dean and 18 Canons, and projected much greater things. But before any settlement, came his fatal ruin An. 1529. when among his other vast possessions, this College fell into the King's hands. Who, in the year 1532. [...]estor'd most of the allotted Revenues, and had it call'd Henry the Eighth's College. But this he dissolv'd in 1545. and the year following erected it into a Cathedral Church for a Bishop, a Dean, and 8 Canons. The beauty and honour of this College have been much advanc'd by the industry, piety, and bounty of the late excellent Dean, John Fell, Lord Bishop of Oxford.
[ii] The dissolv'd Durham College,Trinity. mention'd by our Author, was granted by K. Edw. 6. to his Physician George Owen of Godstow; of whom, in the year 1554. it was purchas'd by Sir Thomas Pope Kt. and repair'd and endow'd the year following. Under the present government of Dr. Ralph Bathurst, it has been adorn'd with fair additional buildings, and a Chapel of exquisite beauty, consecrated Apr. 12. 1694.
[kk] And the site of Bernard College was in the year 1555. obtain'd from the Crown by Thomas White Alderman of London:St. John's. this he enlarg'd and endow'd An. 1557. by the title of St. John Baptist's College; which in buildings and revenues has receiv'd g [...]eat augmentation from the liberal piety of Archbishop Laud and Archbishop Juxon.
[ll] Of Jesus Jesus. College, Dr. Hugh Price, Treasurer of the Church of St. David's, is by our Author ju [...]tly stil'd the Founder. For he began to build, and competently endow'd it An 1571. But the Society, to assume the honour of a Royal Foundation, acknowledge Qu. Elizabeth their Founder; who furnish'd them with some timber out of two adjoyning Forests. The wise and pious Sir Lionel Jenkins, late Secretary of State, was so great a Benefactor, as to be in a manner justly esteem'd a second Founder.
[mm] Sixteen Colleges and 8 Halls, was the number when our Author wrote; but the Colleges are now 18, and the Halls but 7. For Wadham Wadham. College, design'd by Nicholas Wadham, and completed by Dorothy his Relict An. 1613. is since built: and Broad-gate-Hall converted into Pembroke Pembroke. College, whose Foundation is owing to the charity of Thomas Tisdal, and the industry of Richard Wightwicke.
[nn] But above all other buildings, this University justly boasts of Sheldon's Theater, Sheldon's Theater. a work of admirable contrivance, and exceeding magnificent, built by the most Reverend Father in God Gilbert Sheldon Archbishop of Canterbury and Chancellour of this University, An. 1668. Who, besides an infinite expence upon the Structure, gave 2000 l. to purchase lands for the perpetual repair of it. The Area, within which it stands, is round the walls of it adorn'd with inestimable reliques of Grecian and Roman Antiquities; of which the greatest part is owing to the bounty of Hen. Howard Earl of Arundel; some also to the Executors of Mr. Selden; others to Sir George Wheeler, &c.
On the west-side of the Theater,Musaeum. stands Ashmole's [Page] Musaeum, a neat and curious Edifice, of which the lower part is a Chymical Elaboratory, the first floor on a noble ascent is a spacious Hall, and the upper-chamber a Repository of Natural and Artificial Curiosities. The greatest part of these are owing to the generosity of Elias Ashmole Esq who has prescrib'd Statutes for the Custody of them; and has reposited in this place the excellent Collection of MSS. made by himself and by his Father-in-law Sir William Dugdale.
[oo] The town of Tame Tame. (though our Author mentions nothing of it before the Conquest) seems yet to have been of some note in the Saxon times; for we find that in the year 970. Arch-bishop Oskytel ended his days in it. The Abbey mention'd by our Author, of the Cistercian Order, was founded at the village of Ottendun (and as Mr. Leland says, upon Otmore) by Sir Robert Gait Knight; who endowing it with five virgates of land in Ottendum, call'd it from an adjacent wood Ottelei. But the low site making it altogether unfit for a Monastery, it was remov'd to Tame, and the Church there dedicated to St. Mary, on July 21. 1138. 3 K. Steph. Of which the Bishop was afterwards reputed the founder, though he only translated it, and gave part of his park at Tame for the site of it, with some other lands which had belong'd to Nigel Kyre.
[pp] Next is Ricot, Ricot. which still continues in the family of the Norris's, and is now part of the possession of the right honourable James Earl of Abingdon, who had that honour conferr'd upon him, Novemb. 29. 1682. and having marry'd Eleanora, one of the daughters and coheirs of Sir Henry Lee Baronet, by her has issue his eldest son and heir apparent Mountague Lord Norris, who has marry'd the heiress to the family and estate of the ancient and honourable Venables Barons of Kenderton.
[qq] South and by West of Dorchester, are two banks with a trench between them (therefore call'd Dike-hills, Pag. 322.) which, in the opinion of Dr. Plot, cannot be part of any Roman way, because extended only as a string to the great bow of the river Thames; but rather a fortification, such as P. Ostorius is said by Tacitus to have rais'd on the rivers Antona and Sabrina: or else some of the out-works of the fortifications on Long Witenham-hill, on the other side the water, which perhaps was the Sinnodunum of the ancient Britains. So he.
[rr] Not far from hence is Ewelme, Ewelme. the Rectory whereof (with a Canon [...]y of Christ-Church) King James 1. in the third year of his reign, annex'd to the office of Regius-Professor of Divinity in Oxford; as he did at the same time, the government of the Hospital here, to that of Professor in Physick. Which Prince, however represented as of a mean spirit, for his inclinations to peace; was yet one of the highest patrons to learning, and the greatest Benefactor to this University; and deserves to have his memory vindicated from the common aspersions cast upon it by men of ignorance, and men of arms.
[ss] Then the Thames runs forward to Henley, Henley. which Dr. Plot takes to be the ancientest town in the whole County; so call'd (says he) from the British Hen, which signifies old, and Lley a place; and perhaps might be the head town of the People call'd Ancalites, that revolted to Caesar.
[tt] At some distance is Watlington, Watlington which by the name one would imagine to be of no less than British Antiquity,Plot. p 332 as seeming to point out to us * the old way of making their towns or cities, an account whereof Strabo has left us, viz. Groves fenc'd about with trees cut down, and laid cross one another, within which they built them sheds, for both themselves and Cattel. The same way of fencing, the Saxons call'd Watelas, hurdles, or wattles, from whence the town probably enough might have its name.
Continuation of the EARLS.
Henry, the last Earl mention'd by our Author, marry'd Diana, second daughter to William Cecil Earl of Exeter, and dy'd at the siege of Breda, An. 1625. without issue. Upon which Robert Vere, son and heir of Hugh, son and heir of Aubry de Vere, second son of Earl John the fifth, was in the Parliament held at Westminster, An. 2 Car. 1. restor'd to this title of Earl of Oxford; who taking to wife Beatrix van Hemmema of Friezland, had issue by her Aubrey the present Earl, Knight of the most noble Order of the Garter; who marry'd Diana daughter to George Kirk Esq but by her has no issue.
More rare Plants growing wild in Oxfordshire.
Anagallis foemina flore coeruleo. Female or Blew-flower'd Pimpernel. At Battle near Oxford. Park. p. 554.
Arundo vallatoria foliis ex luteo variegatis. Painted or gilded Reed. Found by Mr. Bobert in the river Thames not far from Oxford. Though it be but an accidental variety it deserves to be mention'd, being very ornamental in gardens.
Atriplex vulgaris sinuata spicata. D. Plot. Hist. nat. Oxon. It is found commonly on Dunghils, growing together with Goose-foot Orache.
Geranium Columbinum maximum foliis dissectis D. Plot. Hist. nat. Oxon. columbinum majus, foliis imis longis, usque ad pediculum divisis. Moris. hist. The greatest Doves-foot Cranes-bill with dissected leaves. In hedges about Marston, and on that part of Botley causey next Oxford in great plenty.
Gramen caninum aristatum, radice non repente sylvaticum. Dogs-grass with awns. Found plentifully growing in Stoken-Church woods. Mr. Bobert.
Gramen Secalinum majus Sylvaticum. Gr. secalinum majus Park. an Gr. hordeaceum montanum sive majus C. B. Wild Rye grass of the woods. In Stoken-Church woods also. Idem.
Gramen cyperiodes minimum, Ranunculi capitulo rotundo. Cyperus-grass with a round Crowfoot-head. Frequently found on the bogs on the west side of Oxford. Idem.
Gramen bromoides maximum hirtum Park. Festuca graminea perennis hirsuta, gluma longiore dumetorum, spicâ divisâ. In Godstow copse near Oxford. Idem.
Helleborine flore albo vel Damasonium montanum latifolium C B. Ger. Damasonium Alpinum seu Elleborine floribus albis J. B. Elleborine minor flore albo Park. White-flower'd Bastard-Hellebore. In the woods near Stoken-Church, not far from the way leading from Oxford to Lnod.
Hordeum nudum seu Gymnocrithon J. B. Zeopyron sive Tritico-speltum C. B. Park. Hordeum nudum Ger. cujus figura huic plantae minimè respondet. Naked Barley. It is sown in the fields about Islip in Oxfordshire and other places. It is really a species of wheat, and no Barley: only its ear resembles the Hordeum dystichum.
Orobanche Verbasculi odore D. Plot. Hist. nat. Oxon. Birds-nest smelling like Primrose-roots. At the bottoms o trees in the woods near Stoken church.
Saxifraga Anglica annua Alsines folio D. Plot. Hist. nat. Oxon. Annual Pearl-wort. In the walks of Baliol-College gardens, and on the fallow-fields about Hedington and Cowley, plentifully; and in many other places.
Stachys Fuchsii J. B. Ger. major Germanica C. B. Park. Base Hore-hound. Nigh Witney-park in Oxfordshire and thereabouts, plentifully.
Tilia foliis molliter hirsutis, viminibus rubris, fructu tetragono. 'Tis known by the name of the red Lime, and grows naturally in Stoken-Church woods. Mr. Bobert.
Tormentilla reptans alata, foliis profundiùs serratis. Pentaphyllum minus viride, flore aureo tetrapetalo, radiculas in terram è geniculis demittens Moris. Hist. Creeping Tormentil with deeply indented leaves. In the borders of the corn-fields between Hockley and Shotover-woods, and elsewhere.
Triticum spica multiplici C. B. Ger. Park. Many-eared wheat. It hath been sown about Biceter, and Weston on the green.
Viola Martia hirsuta major in odora D. Plot. Hist. nat. Oxon. & Moris. hist. Trachelii folio D. Merret. Violet with Throatwort-leaves. In Magdalen-college-Cops, Shotover-hills, Stow-wood, and many other places plentifully. It is found in most Countries.
Viola palustris rotundifolia D. Plot. Hist. nat. Oxon. Round-leaved Marsh-violet. In the bogs about Stow-wood, and on the banks of Cherwell between Oxford and Water-Eyton, but sparingly.
Clematis Daphnoides major C. B. Daphnoid. latifolia seu Vinca pervinca major Park. The greater Periwinkle. In the high-ways between Wolverton and Yarnton, and in several hedges thereabout. I am not yet fully satisfied, that this is a native of England, though it be found in the places mentioned, because possibly it might owe its original to roots thrown out of gardens.
Sambucus fructu albo Ger. Park. White-berried Elder. Observed by Mr. Bobert in the hedges near Watlington.
CATTIEUCHLANI.
ON the East of the Dobuni border those People whom Ptolemy, according to different Copies, calls Cattieuchlani, Cattidudani, Cathicludani, and Dio Cattuellani. Which of these is the true name I cannot easily determine; yet I must beg leave here to be deliver'd of an abortive conjecture which I have this long time been in labour with. I should think then, that these people were the ancient Cassii, that from them their Prince Cassivellaunus, or Cassibelinus, first took his name; and that they again from their Prince Cassivellaunus were by the Grecians call'd Cattuellani, Cathuellani, and Cattieuchlani. Now the Cassii, mention'd among the British Nations by Caesar, did most certainly inhabit these parts, from whom a pretty large tract in this County still retains the name of Caishow. And since Cassivellaunus govern'd here, as from Caesar is evident, and in his name the appellation of the Cassii Cassii. doth manifestly appear; it seems very probable that Cassivellaunus denotes as much as the Prince of the Cassii. If otherwise, why should Dio call this Cassivelaunus, Suellan instead of Vellan, and Ninnius the British writer not Cassibellinus, but Bellinus, as if that were the proper appellation either of his person or dignity? Nor ought it to seem strange that Princes heretofore took their name from the people whom they govern'd: for thus the Catti in Germany had their Cattimarus; the Teutones their Teutomarus and Teutobochus; the Daci their Decebalus; the Goths their Gottiso. And why might not our Cassii in like manner have their Cassibelinus? Besides, Belinus was a common name in that Island; and some have thought that the name of Cunobellinus, Bellin. King of the Iceni, imported no more than the Belinus of the Iceni. So that if the Grecians did not from this Cassivellaunus extort the appellations of Cattwellani, Cattieuchlani, &c. I must as to this matter freely confess my self in the dark.
But whence these people obtain'd the name of Cassii I can't discover, unless from their warlike valour. For Servius Honoratus informs us, that the stoutest and most vigorous Souldiers were by the ancient Gauls (who spoke the same language as the Britains) call'd Gessi. Whence Ninnius interprets the British word Cethilou, The seed of Warriors. Now that the Cassii were renown'd for Martial prowess is most certain: for before the arrival of Caesar, they had wag'd continual war against their neighbours, and had reduc'd part of the Dobuni under their subjection.Dio. And then upon Caesar's invasion the Britains constituted the Prince of this Country, Commander in chief of the forces of the whole Island. They had too by this time extended their name and dominion to a considerable distance. For under the general name of Cassii or Cattieuchlani, were comprehended all those people who inhabit three Counties in the present division, viz. Buckinghamshire, Bedfordshire, and Hertfordshire; of which I shall now speak briefly in their order, having not much to say of any of them.
BƲCKINGHAMSHIRE.
BUckinghamshire abounding exceedingly in Beech-trees, which the Saxons call Bucken, 'tis probable that from them the chief town Buckingham had its name; and from that the whole County. For so in Germany, a Country fam'd for plenty of Beeches, is call'd Buchonia; and with us the town of Buckenham in Norfolk is said to be surrounded by that sort of trees [a]. This Shire being of no considerable breadth, is in length extended from the Thames northward. On the South it hath Barkshire divided from it by the Thames: on the West, Oxfordshire: on the North, Northamptonshire: on the East, first Bedfordshire, then Hartfordshire, and afterwards Middlesex. The Soil is for the most part very fruitful, the inhabitants thick and numerous, who generally follow grazing. The County is divided into two parts; the one a mountainous, or rather hilly country, toward the south and east, call'd Chiltern, in Saxon Cyltern; the other seated below this to the north, call'd the Vale.
C [...]ltern. Chiltern hath its name from the nature of the soil, Cylt or Chilt in Saxon signifying Chalk. For it riseth, for the most part, into chalky hills, cover'd with woods and groves of Beeches. Heretofore it was so thick with trees, that they rendred it impassible; but these were afterwards in a great measure clear'd by Leofstan Abbot of St. Albans, they being a common receptacle and harbour for thieves [b]. In this part where the Thames windeth it self round the bottom of the hills, is seated Marlow, Marlow. a pretty considerable town, that has its name from a sort of chalky clay which we call Marle: this being spread upon the fields, so fattens and enriches the soil, that after one years lying fallow, they are always fit for tillage, and what they receive of the husbandman, repay with wonderful increase.
Nigh this town, a little river cuts its way into the Thames; on the turning of which is seated High-Wickham, High-Wickham. or rather Wicomb, and perhaps may have receiv'd its name from thence. For the German-Saxons call the winding of a sea or river Wick 1; and in England there are abundance of places of like denomination. This town for largeness and beauty compares with the greatest in the County; and as 'tis a Borough-town, and govern'd by a Mayor, it may justly enough be preferr d to most of the rest. About the time of the conquest, Wigod de Wallengford was Lord of the Borough of Wicomb, and of theVilla Forins [...]ca. out-village belonging to it, as an old Inquisition expresses it. After whose death Henry 1. appropriated it to the Crown. But afterwards King John divided the out-village betweenDe veteri ponte. Robert de Vipont and Alan Basset [c]. In the north of Wicomba is the highest eminenceHujus regionis. of these parts, whence it still keeps the British name Pen; for they call the head or top of any thing Pen. Whence the Pennine Alps, and the Apennine, and several mountains among us seem to be derived. Not far hence lyes Bradenham, Bradenham of a healthy and commodious situation; which is the chief residence of the Barons of Windsor (of whom we have spoken in Barkshire) ever since William Lord Windsor, in the memory of our fathers, built here a seat for his Family2.
Having receiv'd that rivulet, the Thames keeps on its course to Eaton, famous for its Seminary of learning;See in Barkshire. b founded (as I have said before) by that pious and good Prince Henry 6. A few miles from hence, Thames is augmented by the river Cole, which here [Page 279-280] dividing Buckinghamshire and Middlesex, gives name to Colebrook. Colebroke. This the exact distance from Wallingford and London, sufficiently proveb to be the Pontes Pontes. of Antoninus. Nor is there any other town between those two places, to which the name of Pontes or Bridges doth more properly agree. For here Cole is divided into four chanels, which for the convenience of travellers have so many bridges over them; and that this name is deriv'd from them, is plain from the very word. In the same manner as Gephyrae a Town of Boeotia, and Pontes in Gaul whence the County of Ponthieu was so call'd3; which (by the by) fell to the English Crown in right of Eleanor Queen to Edw. 1. who was sole heir of it in right of her mother [d]. With these divisions of its streams the Cole makes here several pleasant Islands, into which the Danes fled in the year 894. from King Alfred, who closely pursu'd them; and were protected by the natural strength of the place, till the King for want of forrage was oblig'd to draw off his army. On this turning of the river stands Eure Eure. or Euer, a little village, which after King John had given to John Fitz Robert Lord of Clavering, his younger sons Hugh and Robert took thence their name: from the former of whom the Lords of Eure, and from the latter the Family of Eure in Axholm is descended. More inward we meet with two places which we must by no means pass by4. Stoke-pogeis, Stoke-pogeis. call'd so from the Pogeis formerly Lords of it, from whom it devolv'd by right of inheritance on the Hastings [e], of which family Edward Lord Hastings of Loughborough, founded here an Hospital for poor people5, and his nephew by the brother, Henry Earl of Huntingdon, built a splendid house. The other place is Farnham, the same (as I take it) which was call'd Fernham-Royal. Fernham-Royal. This the Barons Furnival heretofore held by this service, That on the Coronation-day they should be oblig'd to find a glove for the King's right hand, and to support his left arm as long as he held the royal Sceptre. From the Furnivals it des [...]ended by the daughter of Thomas Nevil to the Talbots Earls of Shrewsbury, who, though by way of exchange they surrender'd up this Manour to Henr. 8. yet reserv'd that honourable office to themselves and their heirs for ever.
The Cole being joyn'd higher by another rivulet from the west, carries it along; on which the first place observable is Missenden, Missenden. where a Monastery was founded by the D'oilys, and endow'd by the noble family surnam'd de Missenden 6. Next in the vale standsc Amersham, Amersham. in Saxon Agmundesham; which can neither boast of its building nor populousness, but may justly be proud of its Lord Francis Russel Earl of Bedford, who liv'd an exact pattern of vertue and true honour, entirely belov'd by all good men. But the chief seat of the Earls of Bedford is Cheyneis, Cheyneis. something more toward the East, where John the first Earl of this family and his son, the fore-mention'd Francis, lye entomb'd together. To Cheyneis adjoyneth66 Latimers, Latimers. call'd heretofore Isel-hamstead, hut had the present name from the Lords of it the ancient Barons Latimer. Here Sir Edwyn Sandys Kt. who married the only daughter of Baron Sandys, hath a fine seat7.
Passing hence scarce three miles northward we come to the [...]idge of the Chiltern hills, which divides the whole Shire from south-west to north-east, through many little villages; of which the most considerable is Hamden, Hamden. whence the ancient family in this County took their name. On the eastern angle of the hills, upon a descent, stands Asheridge, Asheridge. formerly a house of pleasure of the Kings, where Edmund Earl of C rnwal, son to Richard King of the Romans, founded a Monastery for a new Order of Religious men, by him first brought into England, call'dBo [...]i-homin [...] Bon-hommes 8: they wore a sort of sky-colour'd habit after the manner of the Hermits. From the top of these hills we have a clear and full prospect of the Vale,The V [...]e. which I said was the other part of the County. It is altogether champain; the soil is chalky, stiff, and fruitful. The rich meadows feed an incredible number of sheep, whose soft and fine fleeces are sought after, even from Asia it self [f]. Here are no woods unless on the west side, where among others is Bernwood 9, about which in the year 914. the Danes committed great outragesd, and then perhaps was ruin'd that ancient Burgh, as Roman money found there doth witness, which was afterwards a Royal village of Edward the Confessor, though it be now a small Country-town, and instead of Buri-hill, is by contraction call'd Brill Brill. [g]. In this low part of the County, though stor'd sufficiently with towns and villages, yet we meet with few worth our observation, and they seated by the Thames, or by the Isis or Ouse.
Not far from the river Thames, which watereth the south part of the Vale, stands on a rising ground a very fair Market-town, large and pretty populous, surrounded with a great number of pleasant meadows and pastures, and now call'd Ailsbury; Ailsbury. whence the whole Vale is commonly term'd The Vale of Ailsbury. The Saxons call'd it 'Aeglesburge,e when Cuthwolph the Saxon took it by force in the yearf 572. As for its old British name, that through the injury of time is quite lost. This town was heretofore chiefly famous for St. Aedith St. Aedith. a native of it, who when she had prevail'd with her father Frewald to give her this for her portion, presently upon perswasion of some Religious persons, left the world and her husband, and taking on her the habit of a Nun, grew so celebrated for her sanctity, that in that fruitful age of Saints she is reported to have done several miracles, together with her sister Edburg, Edburg. from whom Edburton a little village among the hills takes its name.* In the time of the Conquerour this was a Manour-royal, and several yard-lands were here given by the King, upon condition that the holders of them should find Litter (i.e. straw) for the King's bed (I hope the nice part of the world will observe this,) whenever he should come thither [h]. In the reign of Edw. 1. certain Knights surnam'd de Ailsbury, who bore for arms a Cross argent in a field azure, are reported (but how truly I know not) to have been Lords of this place. Yet so much is certain, that these Knights were eminent in those times; and that by marriage with an heiress of the Cahaignes (formerly Lords of Middleton Cahaignes) they came to a plentiful estate, which fell afterwards by marriage to the Chaworths or de Cadurcis, and Staffords 10. The greatest repute it now hath is for Cattel. It owes much to the munificence of Lord chief Justice Baldwin, who not only adorn'd it with several publick edifices, but rais'd an excellent Causey for about three miles, where the road is deep and troublesome. All round about are fed a vast number of well-fleec'd sheep, to the great profit and advantage of their owners; especially at Querendon, Querend [...] a Lordship belonging to the very eminent Sir Henry Lee Knight of the Garter; Eythorp Eythorp. once to the Dinhams, now to the Dormers Knights; and Winchindon Winchindon. to the Godwins Knights, &c. [i].
By the Thames, down lower we meet with nothing memorable, unless Cherdsley Cherd [...]ey. be (as many think it is) theg Cerdic-slega of the Saxons, so call'd from Cerdicius who had here a sharp engagement with the Britains. Nigh to this place is Credendon, now Crendon, which was the seat of the Honour of Giffard, [Page 281-282] by which name that vast estate was call'd that fell to Walter Gifford at the Conquest;11 who, being made Earl of Buckingham, founded (as 'tis thought) the Monastery of Notesley; Note [...]ey. and his Cousinh Hugh de Bolebec, from whom by a female the Earls of Oxford are descended, held here several manours of him. The ruins of Bolebec-castleBolebec- [...]e. appear hard by in the Parish of Whitchurch 12.
Usa or Ouse, formerly Isa, and the second Isis, which flows gently through the northern part of this Shire, rising in Northamptonshire, and presently entring this County with but a small current, passeth by Bitlesden, B [...]esden. which Robert de Mapertshal Lord of the place gave to Osbert de Clinton Chamberlain to Hen. 1. [k], (a powerful man at Court) to save him from being punish'd as a Felon for stealing one of the King's hounds. But he receiv'd it back again from the Chamberlain with a Kinswoman of his in marriage. Yet in the Civil Wars in K. Stephen's time he lost it again, and Ernald de Bosco, by the favour of Robert Earl of Leicester, got it; who in the year 1127. founded there a little Monastery for Cistertian Monks [l]. The next place that the Ouse visits is Buckingham, Buckingham. the chief town of the County, which Edward the Elder, in the year 1915. (as Marianus hath it) fo [...]tified with a rampire and turrets on both sides of the bank, against the incursions of the Danes. Yet it seems to have been no considerable place in the first times of the Normans; since in the reign of the Confessor (as Domesday book informs us) it paid only for one hide, and had twenty six Burgesses. The town is seated on a low ground: the Ouse, very commodious for the mills, surrounds it on all sides but the north. The Castle, seated in the middle of the town upon a great mount, of whose very ruins scarce any thing now remains, as it were divideth the town into two parts; the greater of these is to the north, where stands the Town-hall;i the lesser to the west, in which there is a Church (though not very ancient) where was the Coffin of St. Rumbald S Rumbald. 13 bornk at King's Sutton a neighbouring village, and by our ancestors esteem'd a14 Saint [m].
Hence the Ouse moves, with a gentle current, to the north-east. More easterly from the river, toward the woods, is Whaddon, Whaddon. formerly the seat of the Giffards, who were hereditary Keepers of Whaddon-Chase under the Earl of Ulster; from whom that office descended to the Pigots, who sold it into another family. Here is now the residence of the warlike family of the Barons Grey of Wilton, Barons Grey of Wilton. who held the adjoyning manour of Eaton by the service of keeping one Gerfalcon of the King's; whence that family bears for their crest a falcon sitting on a glove. Not far hence lies Saulden, Saulden. where there is a neat house built by the honourable and learned Knight Sir John Fortescue (who for his prudence and integrity was made Chancellour of the Exchequer 15, and privy Counsellor to Queen Elizabeth and King James 1.) for him and his family. On the other side of the river, not far from the bank, are16 Leckhamsted Le [...]khamsted. the seat17 of the Tirrils; Lillingstone, L l ingston. of the ancient family of the De-hairel, commonly Dairell; and Luffeld, L [...]feld. where there was formerly a Monastery founded by Robert Earl of Leicester; but the Monks dying all of the plague, caus'd it to be deserted. Higher on the south-bank of the river, the most considerable place is Stony-Stratford, Stony-Stratford. from the stones, the publick street, and the ford; because the buildings are of Free-stone, which is dug plentifully at Caversham hard by; and because 'tis seated on the publick street or high-way, commonly term'd Watlingstreet, which was a military way of the Romans. Some remains of it are plainly to be seen beyond the town. There was too a ford, though it be now scarce passable. The town is of a considerable largeness, beautified with two Churches. In the middle stands a Cross (though not very splendid) erected in memory of Queen Eleanor of Spain, wife to Edw. 1. and adorn'd with the Arms of England, Castile, and Leon, and of the County of Ponthieu, to which she was heiress [n]. Where formerly the Ford was, the Ouse is now kept in by a stone-bridge, whereas before it us'd in winter-floods to break out into the neighbouring fields with great violence. On the other side of the bank, which is something higher, the inhabitants report the town to have heretofore stood. Hard by is Pasham, Pasham. so call'd from passing the river; so that it may probably be that pass which Edward the Elder maintain'd against the plundering Danes, while he was fortifying Torcester. But after the building of the bridge at Stony-Stratford, this pass was wholly neglected. If I should guess this town to have been the Lactorodum Lactorodum. of Antoninus, not only it's situation on a military way, and the exact distances, would favour my conjecture,Leach in British signifies Stones, Ri and Ryd a Ford. but the signification too of Lactorodum (fetch'd from the British tongue) agreeing excellently with this modern name: for the words in both languages are deriv'd from Stones and a Ford. Passing hence, the Ouse washes Wolverton Wolverton. 18, the seat of the Longavils; and Newport-Paynel, Newport-Paynel. so call'd from the Lord of it, Fulk Paganel. From whom it descended to the Barons Somers of Dudley, who had here their castle. Thence thro' Terringham, Terringham. giving name and habitation to an ancient family [o], it runs to Oulney, Oulney. a small market-town. Thus far, and a little farther, reaches the County of Buckingham, limited by the Ouse.
The first Earl of Buckingham (as far as I can yet understand) was Walter sirnam'd Giffard, son to Osbern de Bolebec, a most famous man among the Normans, whom in a Charter of Hen. 1. we find among the witnesses by the name of the Earl of Buckingham. He was succeeded in this honour by a son of the same name, who in the book of Abingdon-Monastery is stil'd Earl Walter the younger, and is said to have dy'd19 in the year 1164. In the reign of Hen. 2. Richard Strang-bow Earl of Pembroke 20, descended from the sister and heiress of Walter Giffard the second, in some publick instruments made use of the same title. But it afterwards lay vacant for a long time, till conferr'd by Rich. 2. in the year 1377. on his Uncle Thomas of Woodstock, (of whom we have spoke before among the Dukes of Glocester.) Of his daughter married to Edmund Earl of Stafford, was born Humphry Earl of Stafford, created Duke of Buckingham by Hen. 6.21. for whom valiantly fighting, he was slain at the battel of Northampton. To him succeeded his grandson Henry (by his sonl Humphry,) who was the chief means of bringing that tyrant Rich. 3. to the Crown: though he presently after endeavour'd to depose him, because he would not restore him the estate of the Bohuns, to which he was lawful heir [p]. But being intercepted, he lost his head, and found too late, that Tyrants commonly pull down those Scaffolds by which they ascended to their grandeur. His son Edward being restor'd to all by the kindness of Hen. 7. through the wicked practices of Cardinal Wolsey, lost the favour of Hen. 8. and was at last beheaded for treason; for that, among other things, he had consulted a Wizzard about the Succession. He dy'd much lamented by all good men. When the Emperour Charles 5. heard of his death, he is reported to have said22, that a Butchers Dog had tore down the finest Buck in England 23; alluding to Cardinal Wolsey's being the son of a Butcher. Afterwards the splendour of this family so decay'd, that they enjoy'd only the bare title of Earls of Stafford24.
There are in this County 185 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to BƲCKINGHAMSHIRE.
THIS County is in length reckon'd to be 39 miles; in breadth 18. and the whole circumference, about 138.
[a] Though Beeches may grow here in great plenty, yet I cannot conceive the name of the shire or its principal town drawn from them. For the Saxons did not call those trees bucken, but (as appears by Aelfrick's Glossary) bocas, and any thing made of it, becen. Now our most ancient records showing neither Bockingham nor Beckingham, but constantly retaining the second Letter (u), it is much more natural to derive it from the Saxon buc, which the same Aelfric interprets cervus, (a buck or hart;) nothing being more probable than that those woody parts abounded with Dere. As to the Buckenham in Norfolk, urg'd by Mr. Camden to justifie his conjecture, being (as he says) full of beeches; we have the authority ofIceni, MS. Sir Henry Spelman, that no such trees grow thereabouts: which enclin'd him rather to choose the Saxon buc cervus, for its original.
[b] Chiltern, Chiltern. by the Saxon Annals call'd Clitern, our Author tells us, comes from cylt or chylt, being a chalky soil. In the language of the Saxons there does not appear to be any such word, (they always expressing that by cealc,) and 'tis certain that in their time it had this name. Mr. Somner interprets it locus gelidus, upon what grounds I know not, unless he have respect to our present Chil. In the year 1009. the Danes pass'd over these hills in their journey out of Kent into Oxfordshire; upon the mention whereof Florence of Worcester has it, Saltus qui dicitur Clitern, by which it appears that in those days this tract of hills was one continued wood, as perhaps were a great many in other parts of England, which are since converted to better uses.
[c] To go along with our Author through the County; at Wickham Wickham. was an hospital of St John Baptist, the revenue whereof, upon the general dissolution of Religious houses, came to the Crown; as also certain rents there belonging to a brotherhood of the Blessed Virgin, call'd our Lady's Rents; all which were by Queen Elizabeth, in the fourth year of her reign, granted to the Mayor, Bayliffs, and Burgesses of Wicomb, for the maintenance of a free Grammar-School and certain Alms-people there. Since which time the Rents being improv'd, more Alms-people have been maintain'd, and An 1684. new Alms-houses were erected and built.
There is no doubt but Wic signifies sinus, and that it gives name to several towns in England; but the rule ought not to be general, because it signifies as well vicus, or castellum, in which latter sense it is us'd particularly in the Saxon Norð-ƿic, Norwich.
[d] The Thames having pass'd by Eaton, Eaton. receives the river Cole, upon which stands Colebrook, the Pontes of Antoninus, though Stow, Harrison, Hluyd, Leland, &c. had rather remove it to Reading in Berkshire. Upon this occasion our Author mentions Ponthieu, as coming to the crown of England by Edward the first's Queen, who had it in right of her mother.D [...] Tillet Recueil de R [...]ys de France. The mother was Joan, second wife to Ferdinand, third King of Castile, daughter and heir to Simon Earl of Ponthieu.
Higher upon the back of the Cole stands Euer, Euer. which took its name from Roger de Ivery, who came in with the Conquerour, and had this, among other possessions, bestow'd upon him. The manour, our Author tells us, was given to John de Clavering by King John;Dugd. Bar. T. 1. p. 107. but before that it was granted to Robert his father by Richard 3. anno regni 9. and his son had only a confirmation of it from King John, anno regni 14.
[e] At a little distance from the river is Stoke-Pogeois, Stoke-Pogeois. which Mr. Camden says came from the Pogeis hereditarily to the Hastings. It first descended by marriage to the Molins, from them to the Hungerfords, and by Thomas Lord Hungerford's daughter and sole heir being married to Edward Lord Hastings and Hungerford, to the Hastings. In this parish-Church, George and Anne the first Earl and Countess of Huntingdon lye interr'd; which probably might induce Edward Lord Hastings of Loughborough, their third son, greatly favour'd and advanc'd by Queen Mary, to found an Hospital here, which still remains; and whither he himself, upon the death of that Queen, retir'd to a house adjoyning, and there dy'd. He is bury'd in a Chapel built by him for the use of the Hospital.
[f] Passing the hills which divide this County, we come to the western-part of it; where Ickford Ickford. upon the river Tame is thought to be the place of Treaty between King Edward and the Danes An. 907. call'd by the Saxons Yttingaford. I had once thought that some remains of that name might still be in Itene (for so New-forest in Hamshire was formerly call'd,) or Ifford near Christ-Church in Hamshire; but Brompton's writing the place Ichingford, seem to favour the first conjecture.
[g] Farther north is Borstal, Bor [...]tal. famous for the garrison in the time of K. Ch. 1. It was given, together with the Rangership of the forest of Bernwood, by one of the Williams, to Nigel of Borstal, by the livery of a horn, which is still preserv'd. This seat through several heirs females of divers names came to the Denhams, and from thence by one of the daughters of Denham, to the family of Lewis of Wales, whose daughter and heir now enjoys it.
[h] Passing to the east, we are led to the fruitful Vale of Alesbury, wherein one (lately) entire pasture call'd Beryfield Beryfield. (now part of the inheritance of Sir Robert Lee Baronet) in the manour of Quarendon, is let yearly for 800 l.
At the town of Alesbury, Alesb [...]y. our Author informs us of an odd sort of tenure, on condition to find straw for the King's bed. Placit C [...] [...]on. de [...] no 14 Ed. [...] It was held by William of Alesbury; and beside that service, he was likewise to straw his chamber, and to provide him three eeles whenever he should come thither in winter. If he came in summer, besides straw for the bed, he was to provide sweet herbs for the King's chamber, and two green-geese. All which he was to do thrice every year, if the King came so often thither. The town has given the title of Earl to Robert Bruce, created by K. Charles 2. An. 1664.
[i] Not far from hence is Upper Winchindon, Upper W [...] chindon. a seat of the Lord Wharton, Dugd Ba [...] T. 3 p. 3 [...]. which probably came to that family by Philip Lord Wharton marrying Jane the daughter and heir of Arthur Godwin of that parish Esq to whose family our Author observes it formerly belong'd.
[k] Upon the Ouse lyes Bitlesden; Bitlesden. on the mention whereof Mr. Camden says that Osbert de Clinton was Chamberlain to King Henry 1. He certainly liv'd later; for in 10 Henr. 2.Dugd B [...] T. 1. p. 522. I find him mention'd as then living. Geffrey Clinton the first of that family was indeed Lord Chamberlain to King Henry 1. and was succeeded by his son of the same name.
[l] The same river carries us to Buckingham, Buckingham. Paroch. Ant q [...] ty Mr K [...] p. 7. near which town, upon the banks of the Ouse, Aulus Plautius's first victory over the Britains seems to have been gain'd. Near the Church, was once a stately Prebend-house belonging to the Church of Lincoln, which was endow'd with Lands of 1000 l. per An. Here was also a Chapel, call'd St. John Baptist's, founded by Thomas Becket, and now converted into a Free-school.
[m] In this Hundred is Caversfield, Caversfie [...] whether so call'd from Carausius, as if one should say Carausius's field, I dare not be positive.Paroch. Ant. p. 1 [...]. However, 'tis very probable from the circumstances, that this is the very place where Allectus slew Carausius in battel.
Upon the south-bank of the Ouse lyes Thornton, Thornton. anciently the seat of the Norman family of Chatylion, which passing through the families of Barton and Ingleton, is now the possession of Sir Thomas Tirrel Baronet, descended from an heir-general of Robert Ingleton, [Page]
[Page] [Page] the last of that name in the beginning of Henry 8. From whom are also descended both the other families of the Tyrrels in this County, of Castlethorp and Okeley: and they all descended from one common Ancestor, Humphrey Tyrrel, nephew of Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, who was also one of the coheirs of Sir Humphrey le Bruin, as well as the said Tyrrel; as Mr. Camden himself has shown in Essex.
[n] Not far from hence upon the same river, is Stony-stratford, [...]ny- [...]tford. where our Author mentions a Cross erected in memory of Eleanor, Edward the first's Queen. She dy'd at Hareby in Lincolnshire, and such crosses were erected between that and Westminster in all places where the corps rested. Our Author is enclin'd to believe that this is the old Lactorodum, (for so he writes it, though it is more commonly Lactadorum, and sometimes Lactodrodum and Lactorudum. [...]urton's [...]erar. [...] 3. [...]e Bel. [...]. l. 5.) * The old town in Gaul, call'd Lactorate, perhaps might give it the name; since † Caesar has observ'd that the Gauls coming over hither gave the same names to towns, as those they had left behind them.
[o] The Ouse carries us next to Terringham; which family there of the same name, by the death of Sir William Terringham without heir male, is now almost quite extinct. His only daughter and heir is marry'd to John Backwell Esq.
[p] In the account of the Earls, Mr. Camden tells us, that Henry Duke of Buckingham's reason for plotting against Richard 3. was, that King's detaining from him the estate of the Bohuns. But this cannot be the cause;Dudg. Bar. T. 1. p. 168. for after that Tyrant's advancement, he sign'd a bill for Livery of all those Lands unto him, whereunto he pretended a right by descent from Humphrey de Bohun, sometime Earl of Hereford, and Constable of England. Mr. Dugdale has given us an abstract of it; and is of opinion that the cause of this his carrriage; was either remorse of conscience for raising that King to the throne by the barbarous murther of his nephews, or else his observing himself neglected by him.
Continuation of the DUKES.
After the attainder and execution of Edward, the title lay vacant till the 14th of Jac. 1. when George Viscount Villers, was created Earl of Buckingham, the next year Marquess of Buckingham; and by a Patent bearing date 18 Maii, 21 Jac. 1. Duke of Buckingham. This George being kill'd by one Felton at Portsmouth, Aug. 23. An. 1628. was succeeded by George his son, who dying Apr. 16. 1687. left the title vacant.
More rare Plants growing wild in Buckinghamshire.
I have not had opportunity of searching this County for Plants, neither have any singular, local, or uncommon species growing there, as yet come to my knowledge, save only
Sphondylium montanum minus angustifolium, tenuiter laciniatum, observed by Dr. Plukenet near St. Giles Chalfont in the mountainous meadows.
BEDFORDSHIRE.
THE County of Bedford, commonly Bedfordshire, is one of the three Counties which we observ'd before to have been inhabited by the Cattieuchlani. On the east and south, it is joyn'd to Cambridgshire and Hertfordshire; on the west to Buckinghamshire; on the north to Northamptonshire and Huntingdonshire: and is divided into two parts by the Ouse running through it. In the north part it is more fruitful, and woody; in the south (where 'tis much larger) the soil is more poor, though it makes a tolerable return. For it abounds with barley which is plump, white, and strong. In the middle, it is something thick-set with woods; but eastward is more dry, and wants wood.
The Ouse at its first entrance into this County, first visits Trury, the seat of Baron Mordant, [...]o [...]s [...]rdant. which family is indebted to Henry 8. for this dignity. For he it was that created John Mordant, Baron Mordant; a prudent person, who had married the daughter and coheir of H. Vere of Addington. Next it glides by Hare-wood, a little village call'd formerly Hareles-wood, where Sampson sirnam'd The Strong built a Nunnery; and where, in the year of our Lord 1399. a little before the breaking out of those Commotions and Civil wars wherewith England was for a long time embroil'd,the Hy [...]gma, [...]. 153. the river stood still, and the water retiring both ways, did wonderfully leave a passage on foot through the chanel, for three miles together [a]1. Afterwards it runs under Odil or Woodhill, formerly Wahull, which had also its Barons of Wahull, eminent for their ancient Nobility2, and a Castle3 which is now come by inheritance to the Chetwoods [b]. From hence the Ouse with no less windings than those of the Meander it self, is carry'd through Bletnesho, commonly Bletso, [...]so. formerly the seat of the Pateshuls, afterwards of the Beauchamps; [...] St. [...] of [...] sho. and now of the famous family of St. John, who formerly by their valour became Masters of a great estate in Wales4, and in our age had the honour of Barons conferr'd upon them by Queen Elizabeth of blessed memory5. To them it came by Margaret de Beauchamp an heiress, marry'd first to Oliver de St. John, from whom those Barons are descended; and afterward to John Duke of Somerset, by whom she had the famous Margaret Countess of Richmond, a Woman whose merit is above the reach of the highest Commendation, and from whom the Royal Family of England is descended.
From hence the Ouse hastens6 to Bedford, Bedford. in Saxon Bedanford, the County-town and which gives name to the whole; and so cuts it, that one would imagine it two towns, but that it is joyn'd by a Stone-bridge [c]. 'Tis more eminent for the pleasantness of its situation and antiquity, than any thing of beauty or stateliness; though it has indeed five Churches. I dare not assent to those who think it to be the Lactodorum of Antoninus: for neither is it situate upon a military way (which is the surest guide in our search after stations and mansions mention'd by Antoninus,) nor were there ever any Roman Coins dug up here. I have read that it was call'd in British Liswider or Lettidur; but this seems to be turn'd out of the English name. For Lettuy signifies in British publick Inns, and Lettidur, innes upon a river; and our English Bedford implies Beds and Inns at a Ford. Below this Town, in the year 572. Cuthwulph the Saxon did so shatter the Britains in a setbattel, that he was ever after too hard for them, and had several towns surrender'd. Nor does it seem to have been neglected by the Saxons; since Offa, that powerful Prince of the Mercians, made choice of this place (as Florilegus tells us) for his Burial; but the Ouse being once more rapid, and rising higher than ordinary, swept away his Monument. The town was repaird by Edward the elder, after it had been destroy'd in the Danish wars; which King did likewise add a little city on the south side of the river, call'd by that age (to follow the best Cop [...] of Hoveden) Mikesgate. In the time of Edward the Confessor (as we find it in that Book wherein William the first took his Survey of England) it defended it self for the half of an Hundred in expedition, and ships. The land of this village never hided. But under the Normans it was a much greater sufferer; for after [Page 287-288] Pagan de Beauchamp, the third that was call'd Baron of Bedford, had built a Castle the [...]e, never a civil commotion arose in the kingdom, but what had a stroke at it, while standing. Stephen in the first place, when he had possess'd himself of the Kingdom of England against his solemn oath, took this Castle with great loss [on both sides;] afterwards when the Barons took up arms against King John, William de Beauchamp Lord of it and one of the headers of that Faction, put it in their hands; but about two years after, Falco de Breaut laid siege to it, presently had it surrender'd to him by the Barons, and bestow'd upon him by the King. But this ungrateful man afterwards renew'd the war against Henry 3. pull'd down the Religious-houses to fortifie his Castle, and very much damnify'd the Country all round; till at last the King lay siege to it, and after 60 days, having tam'd the insolence of the Rebels, possess'd himself of that Nursery of sedition [d].
I hope it may not be unacceptable to the Reader, if I give you the methods by which this Castle was taken, out of an old cotemporary Writer, who was an eye-witness: to let us understand, how that age was nothing inferiour to ours in their contrivances of Works and Instruments for the destruction of mankind.Warlike engines. On the east-side (says he) was one Petrary and two a Mangonels daily playing upon the tower; and on the west two Mangonels battering the old tower; as also one upon the south, and anothe [...] on the north part, which beat down two passages thro' the walls that were next them. Besides these, there were two machines contriv'd of wood, so as to be higher than the castle and tower, erected on purpose for the B [...]listaril. Gunners and Watchmen. They had also several machines, wherein the Gunners and Slingers lay in wait. There was moreover another machine call'd Cattus, under which the diggers who were employ'd to undermine the walls of the tower and castle, came in and out. The Castle was taken by four assaults. In the first was taken the Barbican; in the second the outer Ballia; at the third attack the wall by the old tower was thrown down by the Miners, where by a dangerous attempt they possess'd themselves of the inner Ballia through a chink. At the fourth assault, the miners set fire to the tower, so that the smoak burst out, and the tower it self was cloven to that degree, as to shew visibly some broad chinks: whereupon the enemy surrender'd.
Concerning those Mangonells, Petraries, Trabucces, Bricoles, Espringolds, and what our Ancestors call'd the Warrwolf, out of which, before the invention of Bombs, they threw great stones with so much force as to break open the strongest gates: concerning those (I say) I would be much more large, if they were not foreign to my purpose. But my Author goes on. Falco continu'd excommunicate till he restor'd to the King the castles of Plumton and Stoke-Curcy, as also the gold and silver vessel, with what money he had; and then was carry'd to London. Orders were given in the mean time to the Sheriff, to demolish the Tower and the outer Ballia. But the inner Ballia, after the Works were thrown down, and the ditches fill'd up, was granted to William de Beauchamp to live in. The stones were given to the Canons of Newenham and Chadwell, and to the Church of S. Paul's in Bedford. But nothing is now to be seen of it beside the bare tracks as they hang over the river upon the east-side of the town [e].
Below Bedford, on both sides of it, were very neat little Religious-houses; to the south Helenstow, now Elstow, a Nunnery built by Juditha, wife to Waltheof Earl of Huntingdon, and dedicated to Helena mother of Constantine the Great: to the east Newenham, which Roisia wife to Pagan de Beauchamp translated thither from the Church of St. Paul in Bedford.
The Ouse does not go far from hence, till it comes to the footsteps of ab ruinous Castle at Eaton, Eaton. which was another seat of the Beauchamps, and so bids farewel to Bedfordshire, not far from Bissemed, where Hugh de Beauchamp, and Roger his brother, built a small Monastery for Canons of St. Augustine, as appears by one of the Pope's Bulls. These lye beyond the Ouse, which before it comes so far, is encreas'd by a little anonymous river from the south;Call'd by some Iv [...]d. and at the conflux stands Temesford, noted for a Camp of the Danes, with a Castle, built at the time when they infested those parts with their winter quarters, and demolish'd (as 'tis thought) that British Fort, the place whereof is now call'd Chesterfield and Salndy, which often gives fresh proofs of it's antiquity by throwing up Roman money [f]. And I am pretty well convinc'd from the situation, that this is the very Salenae Salenae. which Ptolemy settles among the Cattieuchlani; especially, if Salndy be the true name, as some have affirm'd to me. Potton, Potton. a little market-town, I pass by, having met with nothing about it, but only that J. Kinaston bestow'd it upon Thomas Earl of Lancaster, along with the lands belonging it. Nor is there much to be said about those towns that lye upon this little river; namely, Chicksand, Chicksand. where Pagan de Beauchamp built a little Religious-house; Shelford, a market-town7; Bigleswade, famous for it's horse-fair and stone-bridge. At a little distance from whence is Stratton, Stratt [...]n which was formerly the seat [...]f the Barons Latimer, afterward of the Enderbies, and so came hereditarily to the Pigotts.
Five miles from the head of this river, almost in the heart of the County, stands Ampthill, Ampth [...]l. seated upon a hill8, a stately, royal seat, that may vie even with a Castle; and is set round with Parks. It was built in the reign of K. Hen. 6. by9 John Cornwale Baron of Fanhop, out of the French spoils; whose goods (as I have read) when Edw. 4. made confiscate for his siding with the House of Lancaster, and had attainted him, or rather (as Fanhop himself witnesses) the house; he forthwith gave it to Edmund Grey Lord of Ruthin, afterwards Earl of Kent,10 from whoseNep [...]. Nephew Richard it came to King Hen 8. and he (as the Civilians term it) added it to theSacr [...] [...] tr [...]. Sacred patrimony, or (as our Lawyers) to the Crown; calling the large estate belonging to it, the Honour of Ampthill. More to the north, lies Haughton-Conquest, Haugh [...]n Con [...]e [...]t. so call'd from a famous and ancient family that was long possest of it [g]. To the west is Woburn, Wobu [...]. where there is now a little School built by Francis Earl of Bedford, as there was formerly a famous Monastery, built by11 H. de Bolebec [h]. Below which, at Aspely Gowiz, they say there is a sort of ground that turns wood into stone;Earth [...] ing w [...]od into stone. for an evidence whereof, I have heard that a woodenS [...]a [...] gesta [...]. Ladder was to be seen in that Monastery, which had been for some time buried under ground, and was dug up a perfect stone. More to the East, Tuddington shews it's beautiful house, lately built by H. Lord Cheney 12; where also formerly Paulinus Pever, a Courtier, and Sewer to King Henry 3. did (as Matth. Paris tells us) build a seat with such palace-like grandeur, such a Chapel, such Lodgings, with other houses of stone cover'd with lead; and surrounded it with such Pomoe [...] avenues and parks, that it rais'd an astonishment in the beholders. We have not gone far from this place (along by Hockley in the hole, a dirty road extreme troublesome to travellers in winter time13; and through fields wherein are the best beans, yielding a pleasant smell, but by their fragrancy spoiling the scent of dogs, not without the great indignation of the Hunters) till we ascend a white hill into Chiltern, and presently come to Dunstable, Du [...]stab [...]e seated in a chalky ground, pretty well inhabited, and full of Inns. It has 4 streets answering the 4 quarters of the world; and because of the dryness of the soil, every one has 4 publickLacun [...] ponds, which tho' supply'd only with rain-water, are yet never dry. For springs they can come at none without digging 24 fathom deep. In the middle [of the town] there is a Cross or rather a Pillar, having engraven upon it the Arms of England, Castile, and Pontieu, and adorn'd with Statues: it was built by K. Edw. 1. in [Page 289-290] memory of his Queen Eleanor, among some others in places through which she was carry'd14 in Funeral pomp to Westminster. There's no manner of doubt to be made, but that this was the Station which Antoninus the Emperour, in his Itinerary, mentions under the name of Magioninium, Magiovinium, Magiovinium. and Magintum; c nor need it be sought in any other place. For setting aside that it stands upon the Roman Military way, the Swineherds now and then in the neighbouring fields find Coins of the Emperors, which they call to this day Madningmoney; and at a little distance, upon the very descent of Chiltern-hills, there is a round military fortification, such as Strabo has told us the British towns were. It contains 9. acres, and is call'd Madning-bowre and Madin-bowre, a name wherein, with a little variation, one may easily discover Magintum. But after Magintum either by the storms of war or time was destroy'd, Henry 1. built another Town here with a Royal seat at Kingsbury, and planted a Colony that should be a curb to the insolence of Robbers, (as the private History of the little Monastery, which he founded for an ornament to his Colony, does plainly testifie.) But take the very words of that private History, tho' they savour something of the barbarity of that age. It is to be observ'd, that that A [...]ea. structure at the meeting of the way of Watling and Ikening,d was first contriv'd by Henry the Elder of that name King of England, to prevent the mischiefs of one Dun a famous Robber, and his Gang: and that from this Dun the place was call'd Dunstable [i]. Our Lord the King built a burrough there, and a Royal seat for himself near it. The Burgesses were free in every thing, as the other Burgesses of the King's Realm. The King had in the same village a Fair and Market; and afterwards built a Church, wherein by the authority of Pope Eugenius 3. he plac'd Canons Regular, feoffing the said Religious in the whole Burrough by Charter, and granting them several immunities [k]15.
Now of the Lords, Dukes, and Earls of Bedford. D [...]kes, Earls, and Barons of B [...]ord. First, there were Barons of Bedford of the family of Beauchamp, who, by right of inheritance, were Almoners to the Kings of England on their Coronation-day. But the estate being divided by daughters to the Mowbrays, Wakes, and Fitz-Otes, King Edward 3. made Engelram de Coucy (Earl of Soissons in France16, to whom he had marry'd a daughter) first Earl of Bedford. Afterwards Henry 5. erected Bedford into a Dukedom, and it had three Dukes; the first was John, third son of Henry 4. who beat the French in a sea-engagement at the mouth of the Seine; and again, being made Regent of France,17 in a land-fight at Vernolium. He was bury'd at Roan, and the Fortune of England, as to the French wars, was bury'd with him. Whose monument while Charles 8. King of France was a viewing, and a Nobleman stood by that advis'd him to pull it down; Nay, says he, let him rest in peace now he's dead, whom France dreaded in the field while alive. The second Duke of Bedford was George Nevil, a young boy, son of John Marquess of Montacute; both of whom K. Edw 4. degraded by Act of Parliament, almost assoon as he had set them up: the father for treachery in deserting his party, and the son out of revenge to the father. Tho' it was indeed urg'd as a pretence, that he had not estate enough to bear out the grandeur of a Duke; and that great men, when they want answerable Fortunes, are always a plague and burthen to their neighbours. The third was Jasper de Hatfeld, Earl of Pembroke, honour'd with this title by hisNepote, grandchild Hen. 7. whom he had sav'd out of very great dangers: but18 he, tho' he liv'd to a great age, dy'd unmarry'd.
But within the memory of our Fathers, it return'd to the title of an Earldom, when King Edward 6. created John Russel Earl of Bedford, who was succeeded by his son19 Francis, a person of that piety and gentile easiness of temper, that whatever I can possibly say in his commendation, will fall infinitely short of his Virtues. He left Edward his successor, and grandchild by his son Francis, who is growing up by degrees to the honour of his Ancestors.
This little County has 116 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to BEDFORDSHIRE.
[a] ON the west-side of this County is Harewood, Harewood. made remarkable for the standing of the river, An. 1399. The very same thing happen'd (as I have been inform'd) the 18. or else the 28. of January, in the year 1648. And as the first was look'd upon to be a prognostick of the Civil Wars that ensu'd; so, as the circumstances fall out, may this be thought of K. Charles 1.'s death; there being nothing so extraordinary on foot at that time, nor any thing to which it can at least be so plausibly referr'd, if we were to make a conjecture.
[b] Next is Odill, O [...]ll. where Leland tells us the Castle (mention'd by our Author) was in his time, nothing but strange ruins, and that it belong'd to the Lord Bray; but whether it came immediately from them to the Chettwoods, I know not.
[c] From hence the river runs to Bedford, B [...]dford. which our Author says one would easily imagine to be two towns; and tho' both sides of the river are govern'd by the same Magistrates, viz. a Mayor, two Bailiffs, &c. yet thus far they make their particular claims, that whereas they have two weekly markets; the south-side has the Tuesday-one, considerable for all living cattel; and the north-side the Saturday-one, for all sorts of Corn. Of the five Churches also, two are seated on the south, and three on the north-side. St. Pauls (as [...]inerar. Mo. Leland tells us) is the principal Church of the town. and was before the Conquest a College of Prebendaries; and after too, till the Foundation of Newnham-Priory. They had their houses round the Church; and tho' (as our Author observes) Roisia was she that remov'd it,Ibid. yet her son Simon de Bello-Campo or Beauchamp, confirming and completing the Act of his mother, was look'd upon as the Founder; and accordingly in his Epitaph, which was before the high Altar of this Church, he is call'd Fundator de Neweham.
[d] In the place of the Castle Mr. Camden speaks of is now a spacious Bowling-green, look'd upon by the Gentry, who resort thither in great numbers for their recreation, to be as good as most in England.
[e] In this town was built and endow'd, An. 561. a Free-school by Sir William Harper, born in it; bred a Merchant-Taylor in the city of London, and afterwards Lord Mayor of it.
Within two miles of Bedford, was an old Castle,Ibid. call'd by Leland Risingho-Castle, Risingho-Castle. which he says was a little by west from Castle-mill. In his time, the building was so entirely destroy'd, that no part of it was visible, but the Area of the Castle was easie to be trac'd, and the great round hill where the Keep or Dungeon stood, complete.
[f] Next is Sandye, Sandy. Aubr. MS. where have been discovered some farther evidences of Antiquity; namely, glass urns, and one red urn like Coral, with an Inscription. [Page 291-292] They have ashes in them, and are in the hands of a Gentleman in Bedford. At Chesterfield also there is a Roman-Camp, where there were coins and urns digg'd up about the year 1670. some of which were bestow'd upon the University of Oxford by Mr. Thomas Crysty of Bedford.
[g] South-west from hence is Houghton-Conquest, Houghton-Conquest. where are two Common-fields, one call'd Great-Danes-field, and the other Little-Danes-field Ibid.; in both of which are a great many Pits, some 15 foot diameter, or thereabouts.
[h] More to the South-west, is Woburn, Woburn. not far from which there is dug up great store of Fullers earth, commonly call'd from the place Woburn-earth; a thing so very useful in Cloathing, that the transportation of it has been strictly forbidden.
[i] Near the South-bounds of this County is Dunstaple, Dunstaple. which one should hardly believe upon the authority of a Monkish writer to be denominated from a famous robber Dun; when the Saxon Dun, and the old Gaulish or British Dunum does so well answer the situation of the place, which (as our Author describes it) is hilly and mountainous, beginning upon that long ridge of hills call'd Chiltern; and besides, we have his judgment that 'tis very ancient.Fuller's Worthies, p. 119. There was a woman who liv'd, dy'd, and was bury'd in this town, that had (as appears by her Epitaph) nineteen Children at five births. Five at two several births, and three together at three others.
[k] More to the west is Leighton or Leyton, Leyton. Ibid. call'd also Layton-buzzard, corruptly from Beaudesert; about half a mile from which is a Roman-Camp. And as this shows the presence of that people there; so the eminence of this town, even in the beginning of the Saxon times, seems to be prov'd from those Conquests of Cuthwulph, in the year 571. wherein, among others, he is said by the Saxon-Annals to have taken LygeanburH, which seems to me much more properly to belong to this Leyton, than to Loughborrow in Leicestershire, the place pitch'd upon by our Author. For, setting aside that the Saxons generally fixt in such places as the Romans had been in (an observation that may be confirm'd by numbers of instances,) the old name and new agree very well. The termination burH has a particular eye only to the fortification that was then there; and why might not the Lygean be as well melted into Lay or Leigh, as the river Lygea is now into Lee or Ley? Besides, the course of his Victories does best suit this; for he went from LygeanburH to Ailesbury, and then to Bensington in Oxfordshire; which almost lye in a direct line: whereas Loughborow lyes out of the road.
Continuation of the EARLS.
Edward, the last Earl mention'd by our Author, marry'd the daughter of John Lord Harington, and dy'd in 1627. without issue. Upon which, this title came to Francis son of William (fourth son to the last Francis Earl of Bedford,) and he was succeeded by William his eldest son, who still enjoys it.
More rare Plants growing in Bedfordshire.
Caryophyllus minor repens nostras. An Betonica coronaria, sive Caryophyllata repens rubra J.B. Creeping wild Pink. On Sandy-hills, not far from an ancient Roman Camp.
Gentianella fugax Autumnalis elatior, Centaureae minoris foliis. An Gentianella fugax quarta Clus? The taller Autumnal Gentian with Centory-like leaves. On Barton-hills upon a waste chalky ground, as you go out of Dunstable-way towards Gorckambury, Park. p. 407.
Glastum sativum Ger. Park. Isatis sativa vel latifolia C. B. Isatis seu Glastum sativum J.B. Woad. This plant is cultivated in this County, in this manner. They every year sow the seed (it is never sown above two years together,) and pluck up the old Woad, unless it be saved for seed.
It is fown about the beginning of March, and cropt about the midst of May, thereafter as the leaf comes up.
It is best in a fair and dry Summer, but most in a moist; then they crop it four or five times according as it comes. The first cropt is best, every crop after worse in order, and the last worst of all.
As soon as it's cropt, it's carried to the Woad-mill, and ground as small as it can be, until it becomes fit to ball.
When it is ball'd, they lay the balls on hurdles to dry: and when it is perfectly dry they grind the balls to powder in the Mill as small as is possible.
Thus ground, they throw it upon a floor, and water it, which they call couching, and let it smoke and heat, turning it every day till it be perfectly dry and mouldy, which they call silvering.
When it is silvered, they weigh it by the hundred and bag it, putting two hundred weight in a bag; and so send it to the Dier as fit for sale, who tries how it will die, and they set the price accordingly.
The best Woad is usually worth 18 l. per Tonn.
With the tincture of this Plant the ancient Britains were wont to die their bodies, that they might appear more terrible to their enemies. The Romans call'd this herb in Latin Vitrum, witness Caesar, Vitruvius, Mela, and Marcellus Empyricus; which word being manifestly an interpretation of Glastum, it appears thence that Glassa or Glasse signified the same thing to the ancient Britains that it doth to us: and not to a blue colour, as Mr. Camden tells us it now doth to the Welsh. Why the Britains should call this herb Glasse, I know no better reason than because it resembles some kind of Glass in colour, which we know hath often a tincture of blue in it, whence also a dilute blue is call'd color hyalinus.
Glaux Dioscoridis. Dioscorides his Milk-tare. Upon Barton-hills four miles from Lewton, Ger. p. 1242. This hath been already mentioned in severl Counties.
Melampyrum crystatum. Crested Cow-wheat. See the Synonymes in Cambridgshire. It is no less plentiful here than there about Blunham and other places.
Ribes nigrum. Black Currans, Sqinancy-berries. By the river side at Blunham and elsewhere.
HERTFORDSHIRE.
UPON the Confines of Bedfordshire, toward the East and partly toward the South, lieth Hertfordshire, the third of those Counties (as I said before) which were possessed by the Cattieuchlani. Its West-side bordereth upon Bedfordshire and Buckinghamshire; the South-side of it wholly upon Middlesex; the East upon Essex, and the North upon Cambridgeshire. It is well furnish'd with corn-fields, pasture-ground, meadows [a], little woods; and small, but very clear streams. And so eminent is it for several famous ancient places, that as to that point, it may justly dispute the preeminence with its neighbours. For scarce is there any one County in England that can shew more footsteps of Antiquity.
Upon the very edge of this County to the North,Royston. Chronicle of Dunstable. where it toucheth upon Cambridgeshire standeth Royston, a town of much note, but not ancient; as having risen since the Norman Conquest. For in those days, there was a famous Lady named Roysia (by some supposed to have been Countess of Norfolk,Others say she was [...]he wife of R [...] chard de Clare.) who erected a Cross upon the Road-side in this place1, from thence for many years call'd Royses-Cross; till such time as Eustachius de Marc founded just by it a small Monastery to the honour2 of St. Thomas. Upon this occasion Inns began to be built, and by degrees it came to be a town, which instead of Royse's-Cross, [Page]
[Page] [Page 293-294] took the name of Royse's-town, contracted into Royston. Richard the first granted it a Fair, to be kept at a set time, as also a Market, which in our days is very famous and much frequented upon the account of its Malt-trade. For it is almost incredible what a multitude of Corn-merchants, Maltsters, and the like dealers in Grain do weekly resort to this Market; and what a vast number of horses laden with corn, do on those days fill all the roads about it.
From hence Southward, Tharfield Tharfield. amongst the tops of some small hills hangs over Royston. Here was the seat of the most ancient Family of the Berners, B [...]rners. descended from Hugh de Berners, upon whom, as a reward for the valour he had shown in the Norman Conquest, William the Conqueror bestow'd a fair estate in Eversdon in Cambridgshire. And to that degree of reputation did his posterity arrive, that Sir3 John Bourchier, who married the sole heiress of this family, had the title of Lord Berners, upon his being created a Baron by King Edward the fourth.
Not far from hence lyeth Nucelles, Nucelles. a place formerly belonging to the Roffes or Rochesters. Family of R [...]ffes or R [...]chesters. But all its reputation was took from the Barons de Scales, who were originally of Norfolk, but heirs to the Roffes. For King Edward the first, for the great services he had performed in the Scotch wars, granted to4 Robert de Scales certain lands then worth 300 marks per annum, and summoned him amongst his Barons to Parliament.Barons de [...]les. The Arms of this family are Gules with six Escallops Argent, which I have seen in several places. They flourish'd till the reign of Edward the fourth, when the only daughter and heiress thereof was married to5 Anthony Widevile EarlDe Ripa [...]iis. Rivers. Whom as his sister's marriage with the King, and his own most signal valour raised; so the malice of his enemies never left pursuing him, till they brought him to his end. For Richard the third beheaded him, though he had no way deserved it. After the death of this Earl's Lady, who left no issue, the inheritance was divided in the time of Henry the seventh, between John Earl of Oxford and Sir William Tindale Kt. who were found to be next in blood and coheirs; the former by the Howards, the latter by the Bigods of Felbridge6.
Lower eastward standeth Ashwell, [...]hwell. that is, the Fountain among Ashes, a good large country village, and full of houses. It stands just upon the northern border of the County in a low ground, and is famous for Springs which here break forth out of the side of a stony bank or creek, covered all over and shaded with tall Ashes. Hence the water flows continually in so large a quantity, that it's whole current being at a small distance collected into a chanel, serves to drive a Mill, and quickly after becomes a considerable river. From these Wells and Ashes together, as it is most certain that the English-Saxons imposed this modern name of Ashwell, so I was formerly of opinion, that the ancient Britains, who were wont to give divine honours to mountains, rivers, fountains, and groves, as Gildas hath observed, had accordingly on the same account, and in the very same sense, given to this place the name of Magioninium, and that it was the old Magioninium of Antoninus. Buta time hath now informed me better; and I am not asham'd to change my opinion in this point: it is not my humour to be fond of my own mistakes. And yet this place has its Antiquity evidenc'd by a large square fortification hard by; which by the Roman coins there frequently found, shows whose work it has been. Also in Domesday-book (which contains the Survey of all England, taken by William the Conquerour above 500 years ago) it is expresly termed a Borrough.
More to the South I saw Baldoc B [...]doc. a Market-town, seated upon a whitish sort of soil; concerning which place, as well as its neighbour Hitching, Antiquity is wholly silent [b].
From thence is Wimondley, Wimondl [...]y seated in a well-c [...]ltivated and rich soil, an ancient and famous Manour, which is held by the most honourable tenure in this Kingdom, (the Lawyers call it Grand Serjeanty, Grand Serjeanty.) by which the Lord thereof is bound upon the Coronation-day to present the first Cup to the King of England, and for that time to be as it were the Royal Cup-bearer. This Honour with respect to the Lordship, was enjoyed, towards the beginning of the Norman times, by a noble family who had the name of Fitz-Tecs; Fitz-Tecs. from whom it came by a daughter to the Argentons. Argentons. These derived both their name and pedigree from David de Argenton, a Norman Souldier, who served in the wars under William the Conquerour; in memory whereof they long time gave for their Arms Three Cups Argent in a field Gules. But at length, upon failure of issue male in the reign of Henry the sixth, Elizabeth Argenton, who was sole inheritrix, brought to her husband Sir William Allington Kt. a very fair estate together with this honour; from whom the seventh in the lineal descent is the present7 Giles Allington, a young Gentleman of an obliging and truly generous temper, whose many vertues are like to add a new lustre to the ancient reputation of this family.
Hard by, near the high-road between Stevenhaugh, and Knebworth the seat of the famous family of the Littons 8, I saw certain hills cast up of a considerable bigness; which are such as the old Romans were wont to raise for Souldiers slain in battel, where the first turf was laid by the General. Unless one should rather suppose them to have been placed as limits: for it was an ancient custom to raise such little hills to mark out the bounds of places, and underneath them to lay ashes, coals, lime, broken potsherds, &c. as I will shew more at large in another place [c]In the County of Northampton.
Lower, but more to the South, lyes the head of the river Lea, Lea. heretofore by our Ancestors call'd Ligean, which with a very gentle stream passeth first by Whethamsted, a place very fruitful in wheat, from whence also it took its name. John ofDe loco frumentario. Whethamsted Whethamsted. there born, and thence so named, was by his learning a great ornament to it, in the days of Henry the sixth. From thence it runs by Broket-hall, the seat of the Knightly-family of the Brockets; and Woodhall, Woodhall. the seat of the Butlers, who being descended from the Barons of Wem, by marriage came to enjoy the estate of the Gobions. Thence it comes near to Bishops-Hatfield, Bishops Hatfield. a town seated upon the side of a hill, on the upper part whereof standeth a very fair house, which now belongs to the King, as it did before to the Bishops of Ely; which was re-built and much beautified by John Morton Bp. of Ely. For K. Edgar gave 40 hides in this place to the Church of Ely [d]. Hence Lea passeth on to Hertford, Hertford. which in some copies of Bede is written Herudford, in that place where he treats of a Synod there holden A. D. 670. which name some will have to signifie the Red Ford, others the Ford of Harts [e]. This town in the time of William the Conquerour, as we find in Dooms-day book, discharg'd it self for ten hides, and there were in it 26 Burgesses 9. But in our days it is neither well peopled, nor much frequented; and only considerable for its antiquity: for the whole County hath taken its name from it, and it still continues the Shire-town. It hath a Castle seated upon the river Lea, which is thought to have been built by Edward the elder, and enlarged first by the family of Clare, to whom it belonged. For Gislebert de Clare about the time of Henry the second, had the title of Earl from this Herudford, and Robert Fitz-walter, who was of the same house of Clare, when King Stephen seized [Page 295-296] into his hands all the Castles of England, confidently told the King himself (as we read in Matthew Paris) that by ancient right the custody of that Castle belong'd to him. Afterward it came to the Crown, and King Edward the third granted to his son John of Gaunt, then Earl of Richmond, afterward Duke of Lancaster, this Castle, together with the Town and Honour of Hertford; that there (as the words run in the Grant) he might keep a house suitable to his quality, and have a decent habitation.
From hence the river Lea in a short course reacheth Ware, Ware. so named from a sort of damm anciently made there to stop the current, commonly call'd a Weare or a Ware [f]. This Town was from the first very prejudicial to Hertford, and now by its populousness hath as it were eclips'd it. For in the time of the Barons Wars with King John, under the countenance and protection of it's Lord the Baron of Wake, it presumed to turn the high-road thither11; for before that time no wagons couldInspeximus H. 6. pass thither over the river, by reason of a chain drawn cross the bridge, the key whereof was always in the custody of the Bailiff of Hertford. Much about the same time Gilbert Marshal Earl of Pembroke, then the principal Peer of England, proclaimed a Tournament at this place under the name of a Fortuny, Fortunium. designing thereby to affront, or at least to elude the force of the King's Proclamation, by which Tournaments had been prohibited. This drew hither a very great concourse of Nobility and Gentry; and when he came himself to make his Career, his horse unfortunately broke the bridle and threw him, 1241 and he was in a miserable manner trampl'd to death. These TournamentsTournaments. were publick exercises of Arms practis'd by Noblemen and Gentlemen; and were more than meer sports or diversions. They were first instituted (if we may believe Munster) in the year of our Lord 934. and were always managed by their own particular laws, which may be seen in the same Author. A long time, this practice was continued in all parts to that degree of madness, and with so great a slaughter of persons of the best quality,Neubrigensis l. 5. c. 4. especially here in England, where it was first brought in by King Stephen; that the Church was forced by several Canons expresly to forbid them,Matth. Par. An. 1248. with this penalty annexed, That whoever should happen therein to be slain, should be denied Christian Burial. And under King Henry 3. by advice of Parliament it was also enacted, that the Offenders estates should be forfeited, and their children be disinherited. And yet in contempt of that good law, this evil and pernicious custom long prevailed, and was not wholly laid aside till the Reign of King Edward 3. [g].
Betwixt these two towns, Ware and Hertford, which are scarce two miles asunder, Lea is augmented by two small rivers, that fall into it from the north. Asser names themb Mimera and Beneficia. I should guess that to be the Beneficia upon which stands Bennington, where the Bensteds, a noted family, had formerly a small Castle12. And that to be the Mimera which passeth by Pukerich, a place that obtain'd the privilege of a Fair and Market by the Grant of Edward 1. procured by the interest of William le Bland 13. Behind Puckerich Munden Furnivall presents it self, which deserves mention on this account,14 that it had for its Lord Gerard de Furnivall Furnivall. (from whom also it took it's name) a younger son of Gerard Furnivall of Sheffield. But now let us return to the river Lea and the town of Ware, as far as which place the Danes came up the river in their light Pinnaces, as Asser relateth it, and there built a Fort: which when King Alfred could not take by force, he digged three new Chanels, and so turned the waters of the Lea out of their old course, to cut off their fleet from returning, that from that time the river was of no great use to the neighbourhood; untill it was not long since restored to it's ancient Chanel, and made more commodious for the conveyance of wares, corn, &c. The Lea, soon after it hath left Ware, takes into it from the east a small river named Stort, which first runneth by Bishops Stortford, Bish [...]ps Stortford. a little town, fortified formerly with a small Castle standing upon an hill, raised by art within a little island [h].Castle of Waymore Which Castle William the Conquerour gave to the Bishops of London; whence it came to be called Bishops Stortford. But King John out of hatred to Bishopc W. demolish'd it15. From thence it passeth on to Hunsdon, which place, by the favour of Queen Elizabeth,Baron of Hunsdon. gave the title of Baron to Sir Henry Cary then Lord Chamberlain. For besides that he was descended from that family of the Dukes of Somerset which was of the Blood Royal, he also was by his mother Mary Bolen, Cousin-German to Qu. Elizabeth. The Lea having now receiv'd this small river, hast'neth on with a more full and bri [...]k current toward the Thames16; and in it's passage thither, as it were chearfully salutes Theobald-house Theobalds. commonly called Tibauld's, a place, than which, as to the Fabrick, nothing can be more neat; and as to the Gardens, the Walks, and Wildernesses, nothing can be more pleasant [i]. This House was built by that Nestor of Britain, the right honorable Baron Burleigh Lord Treasurer of England, to whom more particularly this river owns it self obliged for the recovery of it's ancient Chanel.
But now let us return to the heart of the County, where are places more ancient. Twelve miles westward from Hertford stood Verolanium, in old time a very famous City. Tacitus calls it Verulamium; Verolamiu [...] Ptolemy Urolanium, and Verolamium. The situation of this place is very well known to have been close by the town of St. AlbansSt. Albans. in Caisho Hundred, (which Hundred was, without doubt, in old time inhabited by those Cassii, of whom Caesar makes mention.) The Saxons call'd it Watlinga-cester, from the famous high-way named Watlingstreat; and Werlam-ceaster. Neither hath it as yet lost it's ancient name; for it is still commonly call'd Verulam, altho' nothing of it now remains but ruins of walls, checquer'd pavements, and Roman Coins now and then digg'd up there [k]. It was seated upon the side of an easie hill, which faced the east; and was fortified with very strong walls, a double rampire, and deep trenches toward the south. And on the east part it had a small rivulet, which formerly made on that side a large Mere or standing water: whereupon, it has been conjectur'd that this was the town of Cassibelinus Cass [...]belinus his town. so well defended by the woods and marshes, which was taken by Caesar. For there is not (that I know of) any other Mere hereabouts. In Nero's time it was esteemed a Municipium, which occasion'd Ninius, in his catalogue of Cities, to call it Caer-Municip. So that there is no doubt but this was that Caer Municipium which Hubert Goltzius found in an old Inscription. These Municipia M [...]ni [...]ip [...]a. were Towns, whose inhabitants enjoyed the rights and privileges of Roman citizens. And the name was framed à muneribus capiendis, i.e. from their capacity to bear publick Offices in the Commonwealth. These Municipia, as to orders and degrees, had their Decuriones, their Equites or Gentlemen, and their Commons; as to their publick Council, a Senate and People; as to their Magistrates and Priests, their Duumviri and Triumviri to administer justice; and also their Censors, Aedils, Quaestors, and Flamins. But whether this our Verulam was a Municipium with Suffrages; or without, is not easie to determine. A Municipium with Suffrages they call'd that, which was capable of publick honours, as they called the other which was uncapable [Page 297-298] a Municipium without Suffrages. In the reign of the same Nero, when Bunduica or Boadicia, Queen of the Iceni, out of an inveterate hatred had raised a bloody war against the Romans, this town (as Tacitus writeth) was by the Britains entirely ruined. Of which Suetonius makes mention in these words: These miseries, which were the effects of that Prince's inhumanity, were attended with a massacre in Britain, where Verulam and Mald [...]n. two of the chiefest towns in that Island were taken and sack'd, with a dreadful slaughter both of Roman Citizens and their Allies. Yet afterward this City flourished again, and grew to a very great eminency. And I have seen several pieces of ancient money, which in all probability were coined at this place, with this Inscription, TASCIA; and on the reverse VER. which that most inquisitive and learned Antiquary David Powel S. T. D. interpreteth to be the Tribute of Verulam.Ta [...]c, what magnifies. For Tasc (as he tells me) in the British tongue signifies Tribute, Tascia a Tribute-penny, and Tascyd the chief Collector of Tribute. But you may here, if you please, view the Coyn once more; for I have given you a sight of it before.
Some will have it, that these pieces were coyned before the coming in of the Romans. But I am not of their mind. For I have always thought them to have been the Tribute-money which the Romans (as I observ'd before) were wont every year to raise by Poll, and by a Land tax together. For before the Romans coming, I can scarce think that the Britains ever coyned money. And yet I am not unmindful of what Caesar writes of them: They use, saith he,British mo [...]. O [...]h [...]rs An [...]. brass-money, or rings of iron made to a certain weight; where ancient Copies have Lanceis ferreis, for which the Criticks have substituted Laminis ferreis, i.e. Plates of iron. But it would be impertinent here to repeat my former discourse upon this subject. Let us therefore return to the business in hand. Now as to Verulam, no one thing ever reflected so much honour upon it, as that once it brought forth St. Alban, a man justly eminent for his piety and steadiness in the Christian Faith: who, when Dioclesian by all sorts of torments endeavoured the total extirpation of the Christian Religion, with an invincible constancy of mind suffered Martyrdom the first man in all Britain. For which reason he is called Our Stephen, [...]en the Martyr. and the Protomartyr of Britain; and Fortunatus Presbyter thus mentions him:
Also Hiericus a Frenchman, who flourished 700 years since, gives an account in verse of the same St. Alban's Martyrdom;I [...] the Life of St. German. and also how his Executioner was by a miracle stricken blind.
In an old Agonal, or History of his passion, we are told that the Citizens of Verulam caused an account of his suffering to be expressed on a marble; which they plac'd in their town walls, as a publick disgrace to him, and a terror to all Christians. But afterwards, when the blood of Martyrs had overcome the cruelty of Tyrants, the Christians built a Church here to his memory, which, as Bede tells us, was a piece of most admirable workmanship. And now Verulam came to be so much reverenced for it's sanctity, that An. Dom. 429. a Synod was here held upon occasion of the Pelagian Heresie, which was spread a-new over this Island by Agricola, son to Severianus a Bishop; and had so generally infected the British Churches, that to make good the Orthodox Faith, they were forced to send into France for German Bishop of Auxerre, and Lupus Bishop of Troies; who confuting the heresie, thereby rendred themselves very venerable to the Britains; especially St. German, as appears by the many Churches dedicated to him in this Island. Particularly, there is still standing near the walls of this ruined city, a small Chapel, that bears that Saint's name,S. German's Chapel. tho' otherwise but ill employed. It stands just in the place where St. German preached to the people; for which tradition we have the authority of some ancient Records of St. Alban's Church. We are told farther by Constantius (who lived at the same time) in the life of St. German, that he caused the Sepulchre of St. Alban to be opened, and placed therein the Reliques of certain Saints, that so they whom one heaven had received, might also be laid in one sepulchre. By the way I take notice of this, that we may thence collect what was the custom of that Age. Not long after, Verulam fell into the hands of the Saxons. But Uther the Britain, for his serpentine subtilty sirnam'd Pendrago, with much difficulty, after a very tedious siege, recovered it. After whose death it quickly fell again into the same hands. For Gildas's words do plainly enough intimate, that the Saxons in his days were possessed of this City. God, saith he, hath lighted up unto us the most clear Lamps of his Saints, whose burial-places, as well as the places of their passion, might excite in our souls a great fervour of divine love every time we had cast our eyes upon them, if as a punishment to our great wickedness, the Barbarians had not been suffered to rob us of them. I particularly mean St. Alban at Verulam, &c. Verulam was now quite ruined by these wars, when about the year of our Lord 793. Offa, the most potent King of the Mercians, founded just over against it, in a place then called Holmehurst, a very large and stately Monastery to the memory of St. Alban, or as the Charter it self expresseth it, unto our Lord Jesus Christ, and to St. Alban the Martyr, whose Reliques the divine Grace hath discovered, as an hopeful pledge both of our present prosperity, and also of our future happiness. Presently hereupon, together with the Monastery, there grew up a town, which from the Saint took the name of St. Albans. St. Albans. This King Offa, and several other Kings of England his successors, bestowed upon this Monastery very large possessions, and obtained for it also from divers Popes very ample privileges. I will here recite a passage to that purpose out of Florilegus, that you may therein observe the extraordinary liberality of our Princes to the Church. Thus therefore he. ‘The most mighty K. Offa gave to S. Alban the Protomartyr a town of the Royal Demesne, which is distant about 20 miles from Verulam, and is calledPerhaps Win [...]slow. Uneslaw, and many other lands round about it, as may be seen in this K.'s Charter, kept to this day in the said Monastery. The immunities also and privileges of this Monastery are so large and peculiar, that it is exempt from paying the Apostolical duty or tax to the Pope, commonly calledThat is, of every house a penny. Romescot; whereas neither the King, nor the Archbishop, nor any Bishop, Abbot, or Prior, or any other person whatsoever in the whole Kingdom, is exempted from this payment▪ this alone is exempt. Furthermore, the Abbot, or a Monk that acts as Archdeacon under him, exerciseth Episcopal Jurisdiction over all the Clergy and Laity residing upon any of the lands appertaining to this Monastery; so that the Abbot hereof is not subject to any Archbishop, Bishop, or any Legate whatsoever, but to the Pope alone. This also deserves our Observation, that when that great Prince Offa made a gift to the Pope of the Peter-pence, commonly called Romescot, out of his Kingdom; he obtained of the Pope this particular privilege for the Church of St. Alban the Protomartyr of England, that that Church might collect, and retain to it's own use when collected, all the Romescot or Peter-pence throughout Hertfordshire, [Page 299-300] in which County that Church standeth. Wherefore as the Church it self, by the King's grant, enjoys all manner of Royalties, so the Abbot of the place for the time being hath all Episcopal Ornaments.’ Also Pope Hadrian 4 who was born near Verulam, granted to the Abbots of this Monastery (these are the words of the Privilege) That as St. Alban is well known to be the Protomartyr of the English Nation, so the Abbot of his Monastery should in all times be reputed the first in dignity of all the Abbots in England. Neither afte [...]wards did the Abbots neglect any particular that might be either useful or ornamental to it; filling up with earth that very large Pool or Mere, which lay under the town of Verulam. The memory of this Pool remains in a certain street of the town still called Fishpool-street. Anchors digg'd up. Near which when certain Anchors in this age happen'd to be found in digging, some men (led into that mistake by a corrupted place in Gildas) presently concluded, that the Thames had formerly had it's course this way. But concerning this Mere or Fishpool, take, if you please, what is written by an ancient historian. Alfricus the Abbot purchased for a great sum of money a large and deep pond called Fishpool, which was very prejudicial by it's vicinity to the Church of St. Alban. For the Fishery belonged to the Crown, and the King's Officers and others that came to fish in it were troublesome and chargeable to the Monastery and the Monks. The said Abbot therefore drein'd all the water out of this Pool, and reduc'd it to dry land.
If I should lay any great stress on the Stories common amongst the people, and should upon that bottom tell you what great store of Roman Coins, how many images of gold and silver, how many vessels, how many marble pillars, how many capitals, in fine, how many wonderful pieces of ancient work have been here fetch'd out of the earth; I could not in reason expect to be credited. However, this short account which follows take upon the credit of an ancient Historian.About the year 960. Ealred the Abbot, in the reign of K. Edgar, searching out the old subterraneous vaults of Verulam, broke them all down, and stop'd up all the ways and subterraneous passages which were arched over head very artificially, and very firmly built; some whereof were carried under the water, which in old time almost encompassed the whole city. This he did, because these were ordinary lurking places of thieves and whores. He also filled up the ditches of the city, and stopt up certain caves thereabouts, whither malefactors use to fly for shelter. But he laid aside all the whole tiles, and all such stones as he found fit for building. Hard by the bank they happen'd upon certain oaken planks, which had nails sticking in them, and were covered over with pitch, as also some other shipping-tackle, particularly, Anchors half eaten with rust, and Oars of f [...]r. And a little after, ‘Eadmer his Successor went forward with the work which Ealdred had begun, and his diggers levelled the foundations of a palace in the middle of the old city, and in a hollow place in the wall, contrived like a small closet, they happen d upon books having covers of oak, and silk strings to them; one whereof contain'd the life of St. Alban written in the British language; the rest certain Pagan Ceremonies. And when they had open'd the earth to a greater depth, they met with old stone-tables, tiles also and pillars, pots, and great earthen vessels neatly wrought, and others of glass containing the ashes of the dead, &c. And at last, out of these remains of old Verulam, Eadmer built a new Monastery to St. Alban’. Thus much as to the Antiquity and Dignity of Verulam. Now as to the praises of the place, give me leave to add this Hexastic of Alexander Necham, who was born there 400 years ago.
And in another place;
But now the old Verulam is turned into Cornfields, and St. Albans St. A [...] flourisheth, which rose up out of the ruins of it; a neat and large town. The Church of the said Monastery is still in being; a pile of building, which for its largeness, beauty, and antiquity, may justly challenge a particular regard. When the Monks were turned out, it was by the towns-men purchased for four hundred pound (otherwise it had been laid even with the ground;) and was converted into a parochial Church. It hath in it a very noble Font of solid brass, wherein the Children of the Kings of Scotland were wont to be baptized. Which Font Sir Richard Lea, A F [...]a [...]en [...] the Sc [...] spo [...]ls. Master of the Pioneers, brought hither amongst the rest of the spoils taken in the Scotch wars, and gave it to this Church; whereon is to be read this proud Inscription: ‘CUM LAETHIA OPIDUM APUD SCOTOS NON INCELEBRE, ET EDINBURGUS PRIMARIA APUD EOS CIVITAS INCENDIO CONFLAGRARENT, RICHARDUS LEUS EQUES AURATUS ME FLAMMIS EREPTUM AD ANGLOS PERDUXIT. HUJUS EGO TANTI BENEFICII MEMOR NON NISI REGUM LIBEROS LAVARE SOLITUS, NUNC MEAM OPERAM ETIAM INFIMIS ANGLORUM LIBENTER CONDIXI. LEUS VICTOR SIC VOLUIT. VALE. ANNO DOMINI. M.D.XLIII. ET ANNO REGNI HENRICI OCTAVI XXXVI.’
When Leith, a town of good account in Scotland, and Edinburgh the principal city of that Nation were on fire, Sir Richard Lea Knight saved me out of the flames, and brought me into England. In gratitude to him for this his kindness, I who heretofore served only at the baptism of the Children of Kings, do now most willingly offer the same service even to the meanest of the English Nation. Lea the Conquerour hath so commanded. Adieu. A. D. 1543. in the 36th year of King Henry the 8th [l].
But to return to our business. As Antiquity hath consecrated this place to Religion, so Mars seems to have made it a seat of war. To pass by others; when our Nation had now almost spent as it were its vital spirits, in the Civil wars between the two Houses of York and Lancaster; there were two battels fought within this very town, by the heads of the two parties, with various success. In the first fight, Richard Duke of York defeated the Lancastrian party, took King Henry the sixth prisoner, and slew a great many persons of the best quality. But four years after, the Lancastrians had the advantage under the conduct of Queen Margaret, routed the Yorkists, and recovered their King [m].
About this town (to omit a certain fort in the neighbourhood, which the vulgar call the Oister-hills, but I am apt to think was the Camp of Ostorius the [Page 301-302] Propraetor) the Abbots erected several pious and charitable foundations; as a little Nunnery at Sopwell, and St. Julian's Hospital for Lepers; and another named St. Mary [...]f the [...]dow. de Pree for infirm women. Near which they had a great Manour named Gorambery, where17 Nicholas Bacon, Lord Keeper of the Great Seal of England, hath erected a structure becoming his character. Near to this place lyeth Redborne, [...]borne. which in modern language signifieth a Red-water. And yet the water that runneth by this place18 is no more red, than that of the Red-Sea. It was a place in old time very famous for the Reliques which were there found of Amphibalus the Martyr, who was the person that first instructed St. Alban in the Christian Faith; for which faith he also suffer'd under Dioclesian. At present it is most remarkable for the old military high-way, commonly calld Watlingstreet, upon which it is seated; and also for a certain brook near it, call'd [...]t is also [...]d We [...]r. Wenmer, which (as the vulgar believe) when ever it breaks out and swells higher than usual, always portends dearth or troublesome times [n]. Near unto this, we have reason to look for Duro-co-brivae, [...]o-co [...]a. a station of which Antoninus makes mention, though indeed the distance would perswade us otherwise. For Redborne in our language, and Dur-coh in the British or Welch tongue, signifie one and the same thing, to wit Red water. Now to search after the situation of ancient places, we have no better guides than ancient Inscriptions, the course of the great roads, the reason and similitude of names, and rivers or lakes adjoyning; although they do not exactly correspond to the several distances that are assign'd in the Itinerarie; which may very well be since corrupted, and the passage from one place to another cut shorter. Certainly the old Duro-co-brivae must needs have been seated in the same place where that Roman high-way crossed this water, to wit, below Flamsted. For just at this place, at seven miles distance from Verulamium, (though now through the negligence of transcribers the number is chang'd to twelve,) a good large spring riseth at the road-side, and crosseth it with a small stream; which though here it have no name, yet below St. Albans it is call'd Col. [...]ra, what [...]. And as to that termination Briva, which is an adjunct to the names of very many places, it signified (as I suppose) among the ancient Britains and Gauls a Bridge, or the passage over a River; since we find it no where us'd but at rivers. In this Island there were one or two Durobrivae, that is (unless I am much deceiv'd) passages over the water. In Gaul there was Briva Isariae, now Pontoise, where was the passage over the Isara or Ysore: Briva Oderae, over the Odera: and Samarobriva (for that is the right name) over the river Soain.
Somewhat higher, upon a small hill, standeth Flamsted, [...]msted. which in the time of Edward the Confessor, Leofstan Abbot of St. Albans gave to three Knights, Turnot, Waldef, and Turman, upon condition that they should secure the neighbouring country from robberies. But William the Conquerour took it from them, and gave it Roger de Todeney or Tony, an eminent Norman, with the title of Barony. But in time it was by a daughter transferr'd to the Beauchamps, Earls of Warwick.
Hence I passed southwards to Hemsted, [...]ted. a small Market-town, call'd Hehan-hamsted, when King Offa made a grant of it to the Monastery of St. Albans. It is seated among hills by the side of a small river, which a little lower runs into another that goes through Berkhamsted. [...]kham [...]. In this place the Nobles of England had a meeting, when by the perswasion of Fretheric then Abbot of St. Albans, they were plotting to throw off the new Norman Government; ‘And thither came William the Conqueror in person, (as we read in the life of this Fretheric) much concern'd for fear he should, to his great disgrace, lose that Kingdom which with so much blood he had purchas'd. And after many debates in the presence of Lanfranc the Archbishop, the King to settle a firm peace, took an Oath upon all the Reliques of the Church of St. Alban, and upon the holy Evangelists, which the Abbot Fretheric administred, That he would inviolably observe all the good, approv'd, and ancient Laws of the Kingdom, which the most sacred and pious Kings of England his Predecessors, and especially King Edward, had established’. But most of these Noblemens estates he soon after seized and confiscated, and bestowed this town upon Robert Earl of Moriton and Cornwal19, who according to the common tradition, built here a Castle with a rampart and a double ditch to it. In which Castle Richard King of the Romans and Earl of Cornwal dy'd full of years, and honours. Upon default of issue of that Earl, King Edward the third gave this town and castle to Edward his eldest son, that most renown'd and warlike Prince, whom he created Duke of Cornwal; from whence, even in our times, it continues to be part of the possessions of the Dutchy of Cornwal. This castle is now nothing else but ruin'd walls, and one rude heap of stones; above which upon a small hill Sir Edward Cary Kt. Master of the Jewels to the King, descended from the house of the Carys in Devonshire20, hath lately built a very noble and extraordinary pleasant Seat. Within the town it self there is nothing worth seeing, except a School founded there by J. Incent, Dean of St. Pauls in London, who was a native of this town. More to the South lyeth Kings-Langley, Kings-Langley. heretofore a Seat of the Kings, where Edmund of Langley, son to Edward the third, Duke of York, was born, and thence also named. Here was a small Cell of Friers Praedicants, in which that unhappy Prince Richard the second was first buried, who was barbarously depriv'd both of his Kingdom and his Life; but not long after, his body was remov'd to Westminster, and had a monument of brass bestow'd upon it, to make amends for his Kingdom. Just almost over-against this, there lyeth also another Langley, which (because it did belong to the Abbots of St. Albans) is call'd Abbots-Langley, Abbots-Langley. the place where Nicholas Breakspeare was born, afterwards Pope by the name of Hadrian Pope Hadrian 4. the fourth, who first preach'd the Christian faith to the people of Norway, and quieted the tumults of the people of Rome, at that time endeavouring to recover their ancient liberties. Frederic the first, Emperour of the Romans, held this Pope's stirrup as he alighted from his horse, and at last he lost his life by a fly that flew into his mouth and choaked him.
Lower I saw Watford Watford. and Rickemanesworth, Rickmansworth. two Market-towns, touching which we have no account, until we find that King Offa bestowed them upon St. Alban, as also he did Caishobery Caishobory. that lyes next to Watford. Watford. At which place a house was begun by Sir Richard Morison, a man of great learning, and employed by Henry the 8th and Edward the 6th in several Embassies to the greatest Princes in Europe; but he left it to his son21 Charles to finish, who made it a neat and curious Seat.
More toward the east, the Roman military way pass'd in a direct line from London to Verulam over Hamsted-heath, and so by Edgworth and Ellestre, near which place, at the very same distance that Antoninus in his Itinerary placeth the Sulloniacae Sulloniacae. (to wit, twelve miles from London and nine from Verulam) there remain yet some marks of an ancient station, and there is much rubbish digg'd up upon a hill, which is now call'd Brockley-hill [o]. But when the Roman Empire in this land expir'd, and barbarism by degrees got ground, whilst the Saxon wars put all things in a perpetual hurry, this great road, as all other things, lay quite neglected for a long time, until a a little before the Norman Conquest, Leofstan Abbot of St. Albans repaired and restor'd it. For he (as we read in his life) caused the great woods all along from the edge of the Ciltria. Chiltern as far as London to be cut down, especially upon the King's high-way, commonly call'd Watlingstreet, all high and broken grounds to be levell'd, bridges to be built, and the ways made even for the convenience of passengers. But above 300 years ago this road [Page] was again in part deserted, by reason that another road was laid open thro' Highgate and Barnet, by licence from the Bishop of London. Barnet begins now a-days to be an eminent market for cattel, but was much more so for a great battel fought there in those furious wars between the two houses of York and Lancaster: in which wars England suffer'd whatever aspiring Treachery durst attempt. For atd Gledsmore hard by, the two parties, upon an Easter-day, had a sharp encounter, an [...] for a long time, by reason of a thick Fog, fought with dubious success. But at last King Edw. 4. happily gained the Victory, and Richard Nevill Earl of Warwick was there slain; a man whom as the smiles of Fortune had render'd strangely insolent, and a particular enemy to crown'd heads; so by his death he freed England from those apprehensions of continu'd civil wars they had long labour'd under [p]22.
Earls of Hertford.This County of Hertford had Earls that were of the family of Clare, and therefore more commonly were call'd Earls of Clare, from Clare their principal seat in the County of Suffolk. The first that I have met with was Gilbert, who writes himself Earl of Hertford, as a witness to a Charter of King Stephen. Likewise Roger de Clare, in the Red-book in the Exchequer, bears the title of Earl of Hertford in the reign of Henry 2. as also his successors,See the E [...] [...] G [...] [...] and i [...] S [...] folk. whom you may see in their proper places. But when this family, by right of inheritance as well as by their Prince's favour, came to be also Earls of Glocester, they bore joyntly the two titles, and were summoned to Parliament by the name of Earls of Glocester and Hertford. And accordingly Richard de Clare, who died An. Dom. 1262. is by Matthew of Westminster expresly called Earl of Glocester and Hertford, upon the recital of this his Epitaph:
But within the memory of our fathers, K. Hen. 8. honoured23 Edward de St. Maur or Seymor with the title of Earl of Hertford, who was afterward created also Duke of Somerset24; to whom succeeded in this Earldom his son of the same name, a person of great honour, and a true friend to learning.
This County hath in it 120 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to HERTFORDSHIRE.
THE County of Hertford, as to Vicountile Jurisdiction, both before and long after the time of Edward 3. was annex'd to Essex; and one Sheriff supply'd both Counties, as did also one Escheator. Nord. p. 5. The Justices, for the greater ease both of themselves and the common people, have by consent divided the whole Shire into three parts or divisions, and accordingly have three several Courts for determination of lesser matters; the more considerable being referr'd to the general meeting at Hertford.
[a] Notwithstanding what our Author has affirm'd of it's corn-ground, pastures, and meadows; those who have made particular enquiries into the affairs of this County, rather refer it's flourishing condition partly to the many thorow-fares to and from London, which has been the cause of the improvement of their towns; and partly to the healthfulness of the air, which has induc'd several of the Gentry to settle in this County, and given occasion to this saying,Full. Wor. p. 17. That they who buy a house in Hertfordshire, pay two years purchase for the air of it. But as for the pastures, Norden tells us, there are but few to be met withall; and that their meadows, tho' here and there dispers'd, are many of them cold and mossy. And as to the soil in general, he adds, That in respect of some other Shires, it is but a barren Country, without the great toil and charge of the husbandman.
[b] In the north-west part of the Shire is Hitching, Hitching. which, according to Mr. Norden, had it's name from lying at the end of a wood call'd Hitch, that formerly came up to it; so that it's true name must be Hitchend. The main business of the inhabitants is Maulting, and their market chiefly noted for Corn.
[c] Going from hence to the south-east we find the Barrows [...]arrows. mention'd by our Author, which I am not willing to imagine were either Roman burying-places, or bounds, but am apt to think they had some relation to the Danes. For the Hundred at a little distance, call'd Dacorum-Hundred, and the place within it Dane-end, seem to be an evidence of some remarkable thing or other the Danes either did or suffer'd in this place. And Norden tells us (but upon what grounds I know not,) that the incursions of the Danes were stop'd in this place, where they receiv'd a signal overthrow: which if true, and built upon good authority, makes the conjecture so much the more plausible.
[d] Near the river Lea lies Hatfield, Hat [...]d. now neither a Royal nor Bishop's seat; butB [...] p. 1 [...]. belongs to the Right Honorable the Earl of Salisbury, being a place of great pleasure upon the account of it's Parks and other conveniences. For situation, contrivance, building, prospect, and other necessaries to make a compleat seat, it gives way to few in England.
From this place most of our Historians affirm that William de Hatfeld, son to King Edw. 3. took his name; tho' 'twas really from Hatfield in Yorkshire; where, to the neighbouring Abbot of Roch Qu. Philippa gave 5 marks, and 5 nobles per An. to the Monks, to pray for the soul of this her son; and the sums being transferr'd to the Church of York, are now paid by the Earl of Devonshire. See the Additions to Yorkshire.
[e] Next, the river runs to Hertford, He [...]rd call'd in Saxon Heortford, a name, no doubt, took from a Hart, with which one may easily imagine such a woody County to have formerly abounded. What our Author says of the Rubrum vadum, would indeed agree well enough to the south and west parts of the County, where the soil is a red earth mix'd with gravel: but the Hartingford adjoyning makes for the former opinion; and the Arms of the Town, which (if rightly represented by [...] M [...]ps. Spede) are a Hart couchant in the water, put it beyond dispute. There is a very fair School, founded by Richard Hale Esq; a native of this County, who endow'd it with 40 l. per An.
[f] From hence the river runs to Ware, Ware. the denomination whereof from the Weares (and not, as some imagine, from Wares or merchandise) as it is confirm'd by the abundance of waters thereabouts which might put them under a necessity of such contrivances; so particularly, from the inundation in the year 1408. when it was almost all drown'd; since which time (says Norden) and before, there was great provision made by wayres and sluces for the better preservation of the town, and the grounds belonging to the same. The plenty of waters hereabouts, gave occasion to that useful project of cutting the chanel from thence to London, and conveying the New-river to the great advantage and convenience of that City.
[g] North from hence is Burnt-Pelham, Burnt-P [...] ham. from some great fire or other that has happen'd there.N [...]rd p [...] There were some fragments and foundations of old buildings, which appear'd plainly to have been consum'd by fire, and so to have given name to the place. In [Page] the walls of the Church was a very ancient monument, namely, a man figur'd in a stone, and about him an eagle, a lion, and a bull, all winged, and a fourth of the shape of an angel; possibly, contriv'd to represent the four Evangelists. Under the feet of the man a cross-flowry, and under the Cross a serpent: but whether the monument be still there, I cannot certainly tell.
[h] Next is Stortford, [...]ortf [...]rd. since our Author's age grown into a considerable place; well stock'd with inns, and a good market-town. The castle there seems to have been of great strength, having within it a dark and deep Dungeon, call'd the Convict's prison: but whether that name denotes some great privileges formerly belonging to it, I dare not (with a late Author) affirm.
[i] But to return to the Lea; Tybaulds [...]ybaulds. in our Author's time seems to have been one of the most beautiful seats in the County. As it was built by Sir William Cecil, so was it very much improv'd by his son Sir Robert, who exchang'd it with King James 1. for Hatfield house.Fail. Wor. [...] 1 [...]. In the year 1651. it was quite defac'd, and the plunder of it shar'd amongst the soldiers.
[...] Albans.[k] But to go from hence toward the west; the ancient Verolamium first offers it self, the Antiquities whereof are so accurately describ'd by our Author, that little can be added. [...] A [...]br. MS. Some ruins of the walls are still to be seen; and some of the Roman bricks still appear. The great Church here was built out of the ruins of old Verulam; and tho' time and weather have made the out-side of it look like stone, yet if you break one of them, or go up to the tower, the redness of a brick presently appears.
About 1666. there was found a copper coin, which had on one side Romulus and Remus sucking the Wolf, on the other, Rome, but much defac'd.
[l] The brazen Font, mention'd by Camden to have been brought out of Scotland, [...] Full. Wor. [...]. 32. is now taken away; in the late civil wars▪ as it seems, by those hands which let nothing stand that could be converted into money.
[m] In the middle of this town, K. Edw. 1. erected a very stately Cross, about the year 1290. in memory of Qu. Eleanor, who d [...]ing in Lincolnshire, was carry'd to Westminster. The same he did in several other places thro' which they pass'd, some whereof are mention'd by our Author under their proper heads.
Viscounts, [...]arls, and Marquesses.The place hath given Title to several persons of quality; that of Viscount to the famous Francis Bacon, Lord Verulam and Lord Chancellour of England, created Viscount of this place Jan. 18. 1620. Afterwards Richard de Burgh, Earl of Clanrikard in the kingdom of Ireland, was created Earl of St. Albans by K. Charles 1. and was succeeded in that honour by Ulick his son, with whom that title dy'd for want of issue male. A little before the Restoration, this honour was conferr'd upon Henry Jermin Baron of S. Edmundsbury, for his faithful Services to King Charles 2. It is since erected into a Dukedom, and is enjoy'd by Charles Beauclair.
[n] North-west from hence is Markat, or more truly Meregate, [...]gate. i.e. (says Norden) an issue or out-gate of water, which seems to refer to the river Womer mention'd by our Author.Nord. p. 20 This is said to have broke out in the time of Edw. 4. and to have run from the 19. of February till the 14. of June following.
[o] The old Sulloniacae is plac'd by our Author at Brockley-hill in this County; whereas that hill is really in Middlesex, into which County the Roman Station ought also to be translated. For tho' [...]n. p. [...]53. Mr. Burton seem inclin'd to think Ellestre the old Sulloniacae, yet it does not appear that any thing of Antiquity has been discover'd thereabouts, nor does the old Roman way run through it (as our Author affirms;) that place lying near a mile to the right hand of it. Thro' Edgware indeed, a mile south of Brockley, the way passes towards London; so that Mr. Talbot when he settl'd the Sulloniacae there, had at least some shew of probability on his side. But not any remains of Antiquity appearing, there's no reason why it should be remov'd from Brockley-hill; especially, since of late, Coins, Urns, Roman Bricks, &c. have been dug up there, in the place where Mr. Napier has built him a fair new seat; as well in laying the foundation of the house, as levelling the gardens. Rarities of this kind have been also turn'd up with the plough for about seven or eight acres round.
[p] Upon the south-border of this County is Barnet, Full. Wor. p. 18. where was discover'd a medicinal spring, suppos'd by the taste to run through veins of Alom. It coagulates with milk, the curd whereof is an excellent plaister for any green wound.
Continuation of the EARLS.
Edward, son to the Duke of Somerset of the same name, being dispossest of all by the attainder of his father; was restor'd, the first of Q. Elizabeth, by Letters Patent bearing date the 13th of January, to the titles of Lord Beauchamp, and Earl of Hertford. Edward the son dy'd in the life-time of his father, and so did his eldest son of the same name. Whereupon he was succeeded by William his grandchild, who by K. Ch. 1. for his eminent services, was advanc'd to the title of Marquess of Hertford, as afterwards, upon the restoration of K. Charles 2. to that of Duke of Somerset. Since which time the same persons have successively had both titles, which are at present enjoy'd by Charles of that name.
More rare Plants growing wild in Hertfordshire.
Alsine montana minima Acini facie rotundifolia. An Alsines minoris alia Thal. Harcyn? Small mountainous round-leaved Chick-weed, resembling Stone-Basil. In the mountainous parts of this County on the borders of Buckinghamshire near Chalfont S. Peter. Found by Dr. Plukenet.
Gentianella Autumnalis Centaurii minoris foliis Park. Not far from the ruins of old Verulam. Park. p. 407.
Hieracii seu Pilosellae majoris species humilis, soliis longioribus, rariùs dentatis, pluribus fimul, flore singulari nostras, On a dry bank at the edge of a wood in a lane leading from Hornhill to Reickmeersworte. Dr. Plukenet.
Lysimachia lutea flore globoso Ger. Park. Yellow Loosestrife with a globular tuft of flowers: said to be found near Kings-Langley by Phyt. Brit.
Mentha piperata. Pepper-mint, or Mint having the taste of Pepper. Found in this County by Dr. Eales.
Militaris aizoides Ger. See the other Synonymes in Cambridgeshire. Fresh-water-Souldier, or Water-Aloe. In the new ditches of Hatfield P. D.
Ophris sive Bifolium palustre Park. Marsh Twayblade. On the wet grounds between Hatfield and S. Albans. Park. p. 505.
Orchis myodes major Park. major flore grandiusculo J. B. muscam referens major C. B. The greater Fly-orchis. Found by Dr. Eales near Welling in Hertfordshire.
Helleborine latifolia flore albo clauso. Broad-leav'd Bastard-Hellebore with a white close flower. Found by Dr. Eales near Diggeswell in this County.
Sphondylium montanum minus angustifolium tenuiter laciniatum. Jagged Cow-Parsnep. Observed by Mr. Doody near Tring in this County.
Campanula Alpina minor rotundifolia C. B. About Reickmeersworth in Hertfordshire, in an old Gravel-pit there, observed by Dr. Plukenet.
TRINOBANTES.
NEXT the Cattieuchlani, the people call'd by Caesar Trinobantes, by Ptolemy and Tacitus Trinoantes, inhabited those parts which have now chang'd their names and are call'd Middlesex and Essex. From whence that old name should be deriv'd, I cannot so much as guess, unless it come from the British Tre-nant, implying towns in a valley: for this whole Country in a manner, lyes upon a level all along the Thames. But this is a conjecture I am not very fond of. Though those indeed which inhabited Gallovidia in Scotland, lying all low and in a vale, were call'd in British Noantes and Novantes; and the ancient people nam'd Nantuates, liv'd aboutRhe [...] vall [...]s. Le Vault, or the vale of the Rhine, and had their name thence. So that this conjecture is at least as probable as that of others, who out of a spirit of ambition have deriv'd these Trinobantes from Troy, as if one should say Troja nova, or new Troy. And let them enjoy their own humour for me. In Caesar's time, this was one of the stoutest Cities in the whole kingdom (for such a body of people as liv'd under the same laws and government he always calls Civitas, or a City,) and was govern'd by Imanuentius, who was slain by Cassibelin. Upon this, Mandubratius his son, fled for his life, went over into Gaul to Caesar, put himself under his protection, and return'd with him into Britain. At which time these our Trinobantes desir'd of Caesar by their Embassadors to espouse the cause of Mandubratius against Cassibelin; and to send him into the City as Deputy-Governour. This was granted them; upon which they gave forty hostages, and the first of all the Britains submitted themselves to Caesar. This Mandubratius (to observe it by the way) is by Eutropius, Bede, and the more modern Writers call'd always Androgeus. But how this difference of the name should come, is a mystery to me; unless it be true, what I was told by one very well skill d both in the history and language of the Britains, that the name of Androgeus was fixt upon him on account of his villany and treachery. For the word plainly carries in its meaning something of villany; and he (in the book call'd Triades) is reckon'd the most villanous of those three traitors to Britain, because he was the first that call'd in the Romans, and betray'd his Country. After Mandubratius, when civil wars at home drew the Romans from the care of Britain, and so the kingdom was left to its own Kings and Laws; it plainly appears that Cunobilin had the government of these parts. Take here a view of one or two of his Coins, though I have given you both these and others of his before.
Adminius his son, when banisht by his Father, betook himself with a small body of men to C. Caligula, to whom he surrender'd himself. This so buoy'd up the young Emperour, that, as if he had conquer'd the whole Island, he sent boasting Letters to Rome; ordering the Messengers over and over, that they should not be deliver'd to the Consuls but in the Temple of Mars, or in a full Senate. After the death of Cunobilin, Aulus Plautius by commission from the Emperour Claudius, made an attempt upon this Country. Togod [...]mnus, the one of Cunobilin's sons, he slew; the other, Caratacus, he conquer'd; and (as it is in the Fasti Capitolini)Ovans triumphavit. had a Triumph upon it, with so much splendor and greatness, that (as Suetonius tells us) Claudius himself walk'd side by side with him, both as he went into the Capitol and came out of it. Then the Emperour in person presently transports his forces, and in a few months reduces it into the form of a Province. From that time, the Trinobantes had no more wars; only under Nero they enter'd into a combination with the Iceni to shake off the Roman yoke: but this insurrection was quickly suppress'd by Suetonius Paulinus, and (as Tacitus has deliver'd it) not without great loss on the Britains side. When the Roman Government in this Island came to an end, Vortigern the Britain (as Ninnius tells us) when he was took prisoner by the Saxons, gave this Country for his ransom; which for a long while after had its Kings, but they were such only as held either from the Kings of Kent or Mercia. Of these, Seberht was the first that embrac'd Christianity in the year 603. and Cuthred the last; who being conquer'd by Egbert in the year 804. left the kingdom to the West-Saxons. But of these things more largely in another place: now let us survey the Countrey it self.
MIDDLESEX.
MIDDLESEX has its name from the middle-Saxons, because the Inhabitants of it liv'd in the midst of the East, West, and South-Saxons, and of those whom in that age they call'd Mercians. It is divided from Buckinghamshire Westward by the little river Cole 1, from Hertfordshire Northward by a certain known limit, from Essex Eastward by the river Lee, and Southward from Surrey and Kent by the Thames. The County is but narrow; being at longest but 20 miles, but where shortest only 12. The air is exceeding healthful, and the soil fertile, the buildings and streets every where stately, and no part of it but affords a great many remarkables. Upon the river Cole, at its first entrance into this County, I met with Breakspear, Breakspe [...] the ancient seat of a family of that name, of which was descended Pope Hadrian the fourth,Pope H [...] drian 4. metion'd a [Page]
[Page] [Page 309-310] little before: next Haresfeld, Haresfeld. formerly Herefelle, the possession of Richard son of2 Gislebert, in the time of William the Conquerour. More to the South, Uxbridge Uxbridge. 3, a late town, and full of Inns, is stretcht out into a great length. And below that, is Draiton, built by the Barons Paget; Colham, which came from the Barons Le Strange to the Earls of Derby; and Stanwell, the seat of the family of Windesor [...] from the coming in of the Conquerour, to within the memory of our Fathers. Not far from hence, the Cole after it has made some Islands, slips at a double mouth into the Thames; upon which, as a German Poet of our age, describes it,
Stanes, Stanes. in Saxon Stana, offers it self first in the very Western limit, where there is aSublicius. wooden bridge over the Thames. As to the name, it had it from a boundary-stone formerly set up here to mark out the extent of the City of London's Jurisdiction in the river. Near this stone, there is a famous meadow call'd Runing-mead, Runing-mead. and commonly Renimed, wherein was a great Meeting of the Nobility in the year 1215. to demand their Liberties of King John. Upon the Thames's running by the place, the Author of the Marriage of Tame and Isis has this touch:
See the Romans in Britain.Then it passes by Coway-stakes near Lalam, where (as we observ'd) Caesar pass'd the Thames, and the Britains to prevent him, set the bank and ford with stakes; from whence it has its name. Gliding from hence,Harrow-hill. it takes a view of Harrow, the highest hill in this County, which on the South has very fruitful fields for a long way together; especially about the little village of Heston, the flowre whereof has been particularly made choice of by our Kings for their own bread. At a little distance from thence is Hanworth, where is a Royal, though but small house; so much admir'd by King Henry 8. that he made it his chief pleasure-seat. Afterwards, it glides by Hampton-Court, Hamton-Court. a Royal palace, and a very magnificent structure, built by Cardinal Thomas Wolsey purely out of ostentation, to show his great wealth; a person upon all accounts exceeding prudent, but that insolence carry'd him beyond himself. It4 was enlarg'd and finisht by King Henry 8. and has five large Courts set round with neat buildings, the work whereof is exceeding curious. Leland has this stroke upon it:
And the Marriage of Tame and Isis, this:
From hence the river fetches a large winding towards the north by Gistleworth (for so our Thistleworth Thistleworth. was formerly call'd) where was once a Palace of Richard King of the Romans and Earl of Cornwal, burnt by the Londoners in an Insurrection.
Next we see Sion, Sion. a small Religious house (so call'd from the holy Mount of that name,) which Henry 5. after he had driven out the Monks Aliens, built for5 Nuns of St. Briget; as he erected another at the same time, call'd6 Bethelem opposite to this,Shene. on the other side of the river, for the Carthusians. In this Sion, to the Glory of God, he plac'd as many Virgins, Priests, and Lay-brethren within several partitions, as amounted to the number of the Apostles and Disciples of Christ: and having given them very ample revenues, even beyond what was necessary, he made a special order that they should be content with that, and not so much as receive any thing from other hands; but that so much of the yearly revenue, as was over and above to their maintenance, they should give to the Poor. But upon the general expulsion of the Religious within the memory of our Fathers, it was turn'd into a Country-house of the Duke of Somerset's, who pull'd down the Church, and began to build a new house7. Hard by is Brentford Brentford. (which receiv'd that name from the little river Brent,) where Edmund Ironside, after he had oblig'd the Danes to draw off from the siege of London, did so attack them as to force 'em to a disorderly flight, wherein he kill'd great numbers of them. From Stanes thus far, all between the high-road along Hounslow, and the Thames, was call'd the Forrest or Warren of Stanes, till Henry 3. (as we read in his Charter) deforrested and dewarren'd it. Then8 I saw Fulham, Fulham. in Saxon, Fullonham, i.e. a house of fowle, which receives its greatest honour from the Bishop of London's Country-house9 [f]: And Chelsey, Chelsey, as if one should say Shelfsey. so call'd from a bed of Sands in the river Thames10, adorn'd with stately buildings by Henry 8. William Powlett Marquess of Winchester, and others [g].
But amongst these, London (which is, as it were, the Epitome of all Britain, the Seat of the British Empire, and theCamera. Residence of the Kings of England) is, to use the Poet's comparison, as much above the rest, as the Cypress is above the little sprig. Tacitus, Ptolemy, and Antoninus call it Londinium, and Longidinium; Ammianus, Lundinum and Augusta; Stephanus in his book of Cities, [...]; our British, Lundayn; the old Saxons, Londen-ceaster, Londen-byrig, Londen-pyc; foreigners, Londra, and Londres; our own nation, London; London▪ the fabulous Writers, Troja Nova, Dinas Belin, i.e. the city of Belin, and Caer Lud, from one King Luddus, whom [Page 311-312] they affirm to have given it both being and name. But as for those new-broach'd names and originals, as also Erasmus's conjecture that it came from Lindum a city of Rhodes, I leave 'em to those that are inclin'd to admire them. For my own part, since Caesar and Strabo have told me,British Towns. that the ancient Britains call'd such woods or groves as they fenc'd with trees they had cut down, Cities or Towns, and since I have been inform'd, that in British they call such places Llhwn; I am almost of this opinion, that London is by way of eminence simply call'd a City, or a City in a wood. But if that do not hit, give me leave, without the charge of inconstancy11, to guess once more, that it might have it's name from the same original that it had it's growth and glory; I mean Ships, call'd by the British Lhong; so that London is as much as a Harbour or City of Ships. For the Britains term a City Dinas, Dinas. which the Latins turn'd into Dinum. Upon which account it is call'd in one place Longidinium; and in aNaenia. Song of an ancient British Bard, Lhongporth, i.e. a port or harbour for Ships. And by the same word, Bologne in France, in Ptolemy Gessoriacum Navale, is turn'd by the British Glossary Bolung Long. For several cities have had their names from shipping, as, Naupactus, Naustathmos, Nauplia, Navalia Augusti, &c. None of which can lay better claim to the name of an harbour than our London. For 'tis admirably accommodated with both Elements: standing in a fruitful soil, abounding with every thing, seated upon a gentle ascent, and upon the river Thames, which, without trouble or difficulty, brings it in the riches of the world. For by the convenience of the tide coming in at set hours, with the safety and depth of the river, which brings up the largest vessels, it daily heaps in so much wealth both from East and West, that it may at this day dispute the preheminence with all the Mart-towns in Christendom. Moreover, it is such a sure and complete station for ships, that one may term it a grov'd wood, so shaded is it with masts and sails [h].
Antiquity has told us nothing of the first Founder; as indeed Cities growing up by little and little, but seldom know their original. Notwithstanding, this among others, has fabulously deriv'd it self from the Trojans, and is persuaded that Brute,Abnepos. second Nephew to the famous Aeneas, was it's Founder. But whoever built it, the growth of it may convince 'twas begun with aVitali genio. lucky omen12; and Ammianus Marcellinus has taught us to pay it a veneration upon account of it's Antiquity, when even in his time (which is twelve hundred years ago) he calls it an ancient town. And agreeably Cornelius Tacitus, who flourish'd under Nero 13, has told us, that then 'twas a place exceeding famous for the number of merchants, and it's trade. Even then nothing was wanting to complete it's glory, but that it was not either aMunicipium. Free-borough or a Colony. Nor indeed would it have been the interest of the Romans, that a City of such vast trade should enjoy the privileges of a Colony, or Free-borough: for which reason, I fancy, they made it a Praefecture; Praefecturae for so they call'd the towns wherein there wereNundinae. Fairs and Courts kept. Not that they had Magistrates of their own, but had Praefects sent them yearly to do justice, who were to act in all publick affairs, such as taxes, tributes, imposts,Militiae. the business of the army, &c. according to the Instructions of the Roman Senate. Upon which account it is that London is only term'd Opidum (a town) by Tacitus, by the Panegyrist, and by Marcellinus. But altho' it had not a more honourable title, yet it has been as powerful, wealthy, and prosperous as any; and that almost without interruption under the Roman, Saxon, and Norman Governments; scarce ever falling under any great calamity [i]. In Nero's reign, when the Britains under the conduct of Boadicia, had unanimously resolv'd to recover their old liberty, the Londoners could not prevail upon Suetonius Paulinus either by cries or tears, but that after he had got together assistance, he would march, and leave the city defenceless to the mercy of the enemy; and they immediately dispatch'd those few, that either by reason of their sex, their old age, or a natural inclination to the place, had stay'd behind. Nor had it suffer'd a less dismal massacre from the Franks, had not the Divine Providence unexpectedly interpos'd. For when C. Alectus had treacherously cut off C. CarausiusC. Cara [...] sius. a citizen of Menapia, who (depending upon the boisterousness of our sea,A Panegyrick spoken to Constantius Caesar, and falsly entitl'd to Maximia [...]. the difficulties of the war wherein Dioclesian was engag'd in the East, and the Franks, with that bold crew of sea-allies) had kept back the revenues of Britain and Batavia, and enjoy'd the title of Emperour (as we learn from several of his Coins that are dug up) for six years together; when also M. Aurelius Asclepiodatus had cut off and defeated Alectus in a set battel, who for three years together had usurp'd the government of Britain:The Franks slain. then the Franks that escap'd alive out of the engagement posted to London, and were just ready to plunder the City, when the Thames (that always stood the Londoners a true friend) luckily brought up some Roman soldiers that had been parted from the main fleet by a fog. These fell upon the Barbarians in all parts of the City; by which means the citizens were not only secure themselves, but had the satisfaction of seeing their enemies destroy'd. Then it is our Annals tell us, that L. Gallus was slain near a little river, which run almost thro' the midst of the City, and was call'd from him Nantgall in British, and in English Walbroke. A name that remains in a street there, under which, I have heard, there goes a ditch or sink to carry off the filth of the town. It is not far from that great stone call'd London-stone: London-Stone. this I take to have been a Mile-stone (such a one as they had in the Forum at Rome) from which all the Journeys were begun; since it stood in the middle of the City as it run out in length. And hitherto, I do not think London was walled round. But our Historians tell us, that a little after, Constantine the Great,Coins of Helena often found under the walls. at the request of Helena his mother, first wall'd it about with hew'n stone and British bricks, containing within the compass of it about 3 miles: whereby the City was made a square but not equilateral; being longer from west to east, and from south to north narrower. That part of these walls which run along by the Thames,The Walls. by the continual beating of the river is quite wash'd away; tho' Fitz-Stephens (who liv'd at that time) tells us, there were some pieces of it to be seen in Henry 2.'s time. The rest remains to this day, and that part toward the north very firm; for having not many years since been repair'd by one Jotcelin that was Mayor, it put on, as it were, 1474 a new face and freshness. But that toward the east and west, tho' the Barons repair'd it in their Wars out of the demolish'd houses of the Jews, is yet ruinous and going all to decay. For the Londoners, like the Lacedaemonians of old, slight fenced Cities as fit for nothing but women to live in, and look upon their own to be safe not by the assistance of stones, but the courage of it's inhabitants. These walls have 7 Gates in them,The Gates. (for those lesser I industriously omit,) which as they have been repair'd, have taken new names. To the west there are two; Ludgate, so call'd either from King Luddus, or, as Leland thinks, from Fludgate, with reference to the small river below it (as there was the Porta Fluentana at Rome;) this was lately built from the very foundation: and Newgate, 1586 the most beautiful of them all; so nam'd from the newness of it (for before they call'd it Chamberlangate) and is the publick Gaol. On the north-side there are four; Aldersgate, either from it's antiquity, or (as others would have it) from Aldrick the Saxon: Cripplegate, from the adjoyning Hospital for lame people: Moregate, from a neighbouring bog or fen, now turn'd into a field and a pleasant Walk, which was first built by one14 Francerius, who was Mayor in the year 1414. Bishopsgate, from the Bishop; this (as I have been told) the German Merchants of the Society of the Hanse-towns,Easterlings. were bound by Article both to keep in repair, and in case of a siege to defend it. To the east there is but one, Aldgate, (from it's oldness) or as others will have it call'd, [Page 313-314] Elbegate 15. The common opinion is, that there were two more towards the Thames, besides that at the bridge, Belings-gate, now aCothon. Wharf to receive ships; and Dourgate, i.e. the water-gate, call'd commonly Dow-gate.
At each end of the wall that runs along by the river, there were strong Forts; the one towards the east remains to this day, call'd commonly the Tower The Tower. of London, and in British from it's whiteness, Bringwin, and Tour-gwin. Which is indeed a stately Tower, surrounded with strong walls, mounting up with turrets, guarded with a rampire and broad ditches, together with the accommodation of a noble Armory, and other houses; so that it self looks like a town: and a conjecture that the two Castles, which Fitz-Stephens has told us were at the west-end of the city, may have been turn'd into this one, would be plausible enough. At the west-end of the city there was another Fort, where the little river Fleet (from whence our Fleetstreet) now of little value, but formerly, as I have read in the Parliament-Records, navigable, empties it self into the Thames. Fitz-Stephens call'd this the Palatine-Tower, and tradition affirms it to have been burnt down in William the Conquerour's time. Out of the ruins whereof was built a great part of Paul's Church; as also a Monastery for Dominican Friers (from whom we call the place Black-Friers) founded in the very area or plot of it, by Robert Kilwarby Archbishop of Canterbury: from whence you may easily take an estimate of it's largeness. And yet in Henry 2.'s time, there were in the same place (as Gervasius Tilburiensis, in his Otia Imperialia, affirms) two Pergama, or Castles with walls and rampires; one whereof belong'd hereditarily to Bainard, the other to the Barons of Montfitchett. But there's nothing now to be seen of them; tho' some are inclin'd to think that Penbroch-house was a part of them, which we call Bainard's-castle, from a Nobleman, one William Bainard, Lord of Dunmow, that was formerly owner of it; whose successors, the Fitz-Walters, were hereditaryAntesignani. Standard-bearers of London16.
The Bishop [...]ick.Nor was London only wall'd round at that time, but also upon the confirmation Christianity receiv'd from that best of Emperours, the Flamine was remov'd, and a Bishop put in his place. For 'tis plain that the Bishop of London was at the Council of Arles, held in the year 314. under Constantine the Great; since we find by the first Tome of the Councils,See Baronius, concerning this Council. Out of the Province of Britain, Restitutus Bishop of the City of London; whom (with his successors) some affirm to have had his residence at St. Peter's in Cornhill. From that time, London flourish'd so exceedingly,London ca [...]'d Aug [...]sta. as that by degrees it was call'd Augusta, and had that honourable title under Valentinian the Emperour. For thus Ammianus Marcellinus, in his 27th Book; And going to London an ancient town, which posterity call'd Augusta. And in his 28th Book; Going from Augusta, which the Ancients call'd London. Upon which account,The Mint. when a Mint-Office was settled here in Constantine the Great's time (for we read in those Medals that he made in memory of Constantius his father, as well as in others, P. LON. S. i.e. Pecunia Londini signata, or, money coin'd at London:) then he that was Governour here under the Count of theSacrarum largitiorum. Augusta a most honourable name. Imperial Largesses, we find call'd by the Notitia, Provost of the Treasures of the Augustenses in Britain. This Augusta was a name of the greatest honour, and full of Majesty. For the Builders or Repairers of Cities, out of either hopes or wishes that they might be powerful, flourishing, and great, us'd to give them auspicious names. But amongst all the rest, there was none so magnificent, none so auspicious, as Augusta. For that best and greatest of Emperours Octavianus, took the name of Augustus, not without the judgment of the most Learned. He was surnam'd Augustus (says Dio) to imply that he was above the common reach of men. Lib. 54. For those things which best deserve honour and are most sacred, are call'd Augusta. Nor had London this name, and this particular mark of honour, without the consent of the Roman Emperours. Which custom of taking no name without a particular Licence, Virgil hints to in that verse of his;
But as time has destroy'd this most honourable name, so has it confirm'd that more ancient one of London. While it had that other name, it was very near being sack'd by a seditious gang of Robbers; but Theodosius, father to Theodosius▪ the Emperour, falling upon them while they were laden with the spoils, routed them, and (as Marcellinus has it) with great joy and in a triumphant manner enter'd the City, that had just before been overwhelm'd in miseries. Marching from thence, he so effectually freed Britain, by his singular courage, from those calamities wherein 'twas involv'd, that (as Symmachus tells us)Consecrarunt Britannicum Ducem — inter prisca nomina. London in the Saxons hands. the Romans honour'd this British General with a Statue on horse-back, amongst their ancient heroes. Not long after, when the Roman Government in Britain expir'd, by a publick calamity of the whole Island, it fell under the power of the Saxons; but by what methods, does not appear from History. I fancy that Vortigern, when a captive, gave it Hengist the Saxon for his ransom; for it belong'd to the East-Saxons; and Authors tell us, that Vortigern gave Hengist that Country upon this account. At which time the Church suffer'd whatever could be inflicted; it's Pastors martyr'd or banish'd, the flocks driven away: and when all the wealth, sacred and profane, was swallow'd up in plunders and rapines, Theonus the last Bishop of London that was a Britain, hid the Reliques of the Saints (as my Author says) to preserve their memory, and not out of any superstition. Reliques hid to preserve the memory of perso [...]s. But tho' the disturbances of the Saxon age were such, that one might truly say Mars himself had brandish'd his weapons, yet was London (as Bede tells us) a Mart-town of great traffick and commerce both by sea and land. But afterwards, when a gentle gale of peace began to fan and inspirit this weary Island, and the Saxons turn'd Christian; it rose again with a new and greater lustre. 610 For Aethelbert King of Kent (under whom Sebert was aQuasi beneficiarius. sort of petty Prince, purely by permission, in those parts) he built here a Church dedicated to S. Paul;S. Pauls. which, by improvements at several times, is grown to an exceeding large and magnificent building; and the revenues of it are so considerable, as to maintain a Bishop, Dean, Praecentor, Chancellour, Treasurer, 5 Archdeacons, 30 Prebendaries, and others. The east-part of this Church which seems to be newer, and is curiously wrought, having a vault and a most beautiful porch (call'd also S. Faith's Church;) was re-edify'd by Bp. Maurice about 1036. out of the ruins of that Palatine Tower above-mention'd; having been before that lamentably burnt down. Of which Malmesbury. It has such a majestick beauty, as to deserve a name amongst the buildings of greatest note. So wide is the vault, so capacious Superior aedes. the body of the Church, that one would think it might contain the greatest Congregation imaginable. And thus, Maurice by satisfying his extravagant humour, entail'd the charge of this great work upon posterity. And afterward, when Richard his successor had allow'd the entire revenues of his Bishoprick to the building of this Cathedral, finding other ways to maintain himself and his family; he seem'd to have done nothing towards it; thus he bestow'd all he had upon it, and to little purpose. The west part of it, as alsoTranseptum. the Cross-Ile, is spacious, with lofty large pillars and a most beautiful roof. Where these 4 parts do as it were cut one another, there arises a large and lofty tower; upon which stood a spire cover'd over with lead, and of a prodigious height (for from the ground it was 534 foot;) but in the year 1087. it was burnt with lightning, not without great damage to the city: and tho' built again; yet very lately (when we were boys) suffering the same fate once more, it is not yet re-edify'd. 1561 I will subjoyn the description of this magnificent structure out of an Author of pretty good Antiquity, which you may [Page 315-316] read or let alone, as you please: ‘The length of Paul's Church is 690 foot; the breadth 130 foot; the height of the western-roof from the area, 102 foot; the height of the roof of the new building from the area, 88 foot; the height of the stone-work belonging toCampanile. the Belfrey from the ground, 260 foot; the height of the wooden part belonging to the same Belfrey, 274 foot, &c. [k].’
Diana's Temple.Some have fancy'd that a Temple of Diana formerly stood here; and there are circumstances that back their conjecture: as the old adjacent buildings being call'd in their Records Dianae Camera, i.e. the Chamber of Diana; the digging up in the Churchyard, in Edward the first's reign (as we find by our Annals) a great number of Ox-heads; which the common people at that time, not without great admiration, lookt upon to be Gentile-sacrifices; and the Learned know that the Tauropolia were celebrated in honour of Diana. And when I was a boy, I have seen a stagg's-head fixt upon a spear (agreeable enough to the Sacrifices of Diana) and carry'd about within the very Church with great solemnity and sounding of Horns. And I have heard that the Stagg which the family of Baud in Essex were bound to pay for certain lands, us'd to be receiv'd at the steps of the Quire by the Priests of this Church, in their Sacerdotal robes, and with garlands of flowers about their heads. Whether this was a custom, before those Bauds were bound to the payment of that Stagg, I know not; but certain it is, this ceremony savours more of the worship of Diana and the Gentile-errours, than of the Christian Religion. And 'tis beyond all doubt, that some of these strange Rites crept into the Christian Religion; which the primitive Christians either clos'd with, out of that natural inclination mankind has to Superstition, or bore with them a little in the beginning, with a design to draw over the Gentiles by little and little to the true worship of God [l].
However, ever since this Church was built, it has been the See of the Bishops of London; and under the Saxons (fifty years after the expulsion of Theonus) the first Bishop it had was Melitus a Roman, consecrated by Augustine Archbishop of Canterbury. It was in honour to this Augustine, that the ArchiepiscopalInsignia. Dignity, and the Metropolitical See were translated from London to Canterbury, against the express order of Pope Gregory. There are bury'd in this Church (to say nothing of S. Erkenwald, Persons buried in Paul's. and the Bishops) Sebba King of the East-Saxons, who quitted his Crown for the sake of Christ and Religion; Ethelred or Egelred (who was rather an oppressor than governour of this kingdom: the beginning of his reign barbarous, the middle miserable, and the end shameful: he made himself inhuman by conniving at Parricide, infamous by his cowardize and effeminacy: and by his death, miserable.) Henry Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster, Simon de Burley a famous Knight17, J. de 18 Beauchamp Warden of the Cinque-Ports, J. Lord Latimer, Sir John Mason, William Herbert Earl of Pembroke, Nicholas Bacon Lord Keeper, a person of great conduct and profound judgment, Sir Philip Sidney and Sir Francis Walsingham most famous Knights, &c. and19 Christopher Hatton Lord High Chancellour of England, to whose sacred and lasting memory hisNepos. nephew20 William Hatton of the ancient family of the Newports (but by him adopted into the name and family of the Hattons,) dutifully erected a magnificent monument, becoming the dignity and high character of so great a Man [m].
Besides this, there is nothing of the Saxon work that I know of remains in London; for 'twas not long they had enjoy'd a settl'd peace, when the West-Saxons subdu'd the East-Saxons, and London fell into the hands of the Mercians. And these civil wars were scarcely ended, but presently a new northern storm breaks out, namely that Danish one, which miserably harrass these parts, and gave a great blow to this city. For the Danes got possession of it, but Aelfred retook it, and after he had repair'd it, committed it to the government of his son-in-Law Aethelred, Earl of the Mercians. Notwithstanding, after this those Plunderers did often besiege it; especially Canutus, who dugg a new chanel with a design to divert the Thames: but they always lost their labour, the citizens stoutly defending it against the assaults of the enemy. But for all this they were under continual apprehensions, till they joyfully receiv'd William the Norman, and saluted him King; whom Providence had design'd21 for the Crown of England. From that time the winds ceas'd, the clouds scatter'd, and the true golden age shone forth. Since then it has not endur'd any signal calamity, but by the bounty of our Princes obtain'd several immunities, began to be call'd theCamer [...]. Chamber of the Kings, and has grown so in Trade ever since, that William of Malmsbury, who liv'd near that time, calls it a City, noble, wealthy, in every part adorn'd by the riches of the citizens, and frequented by merchants from all parts of the world. And Fitz-Stephens, who liv'd in that age, has told us, that then London had 122 Parish-Churches, and 13 belonging toConventuales. Convents; and that upon a muster made of all that were able to bear Arms, it sent into the field forty thousand foot, and twenty thousand horse. Then it began to encrease on every side with new buildings, and the suburbs round to stretch it self a long way from the city-gates [n]; especially to the west, where it is most populous,Nurseries for Common Law; or Inns of Court. and has 12 Inns of Court for the study of our Common-Law. Four of them, very large and splendid, belongAd [...]ns sive [...] am. to the Judicial-Courts; the rest to Chancery 22. In these there are such numbers of young Gentlemen attend the study of the Law, that in this point they are no way inferiour to Angiers, Caen, or Orleans, as23 J. Fortescue in his little Treatise of the Laws of England, has told us. Those four principal ones I mention'd,Formerly call'd The New-Temple. The Old-Temple, where now Southamton house is in Holborn-Templ [...]rs. are the Inner-Temple, the Middle-Temple, Grays-Inn, and Lincolns-Inn. The two first are in the place where formerly (in the reign of Henry 2.) Heraclius Patriarch of Jerusalem consecrated a Church for the Knights Templars, which was built after the model of the Temple near our Saviour's Sepulchre at Jerusalem. For24 there they liv'd in that part of the Temple next the Sepulchre, and from it had their name; being under a vow to protect the Christian Religion25, and such as came in pilgrimage to the Sepulchre of our Lord, against the Mahometans26. By which means they gain'd great esteem and respect from all hands, by the bounty of Princes27 had large possessions and much wealth, and flourisht in great reputation for their piety28.Upon one of those Monuments, the characters whereof are obscure, I read Comes Pembrochiae; and on the side, M [...] eram [...] tis, M [...] multo [...] v [...] cerat arm [...]s. The Statute concerning the Templars lands. 17 Edw. 2. Many Noble-men were bury'd among them; whose Images are to be seen in this Temple with their leggs across (for so all those in that age were bury'd, who had devoted themselves to the service of the Holy War, or, as those times worded it, had taken up the Cross.) Among the rest, were William 29 the father, William and Gilbert the sons, all Marshals of England, and Earls of Pembroke30. But31 in the year of our Lord 1312. this Order was condemn'd for Impiety, and by authority of the Pope utterly abolisht. However, their revenues by Act of Parliament went to the Knights-Hospitalers of St. John of Jerusalem, lest what was given upon a Religious design, contrary to the Will of the Doners should be turn'd to other uses. Notwithstanding, it appears plainly by ancient Records, that after the Templars were driven out, this place was the seat of Thomas Earl of Lancaster, and of that32 Spenser who was a great favourite of King Edward [Page 317-318] the second, as afterwards of33 Audomar de Valentia Earl of Pembroke; and at last it was turn'd into twoCollegia. Inns for Lawyers. Concerning the other two, I have met with nothing upon record; only there is a Tradition that one of them was the habitation of the Lords Grey 34, the other of the Earls of Lincoln.
Near these, between the New and Old Temple, King Henry the third built a House of Converts for the maintenance of those who turn'd from Judaism to Christianity; which afterwards King Edward 3. made a place for the Rolls and Records, upon which account it is at this day call'd the Rowles The Rowles [o].
These Suburbs run along in a continu'd set of buildings, and the stately houses of some of the Nobility upon the Thames, as far as Westminster. The most considerable of them are [...]ride-well. St. Bridgid's-Well, where King Henry 8. built a Palace for the reception of the Emperour Charles the fifth; but now it is a house of Correction; Buckhurst-house35, belonging sometimes to the Bishops of Salisbury;36 the house of the Carmelites; the Temples before-mention'd;37 Essex-house, built by the Lord Paget; Arundel-house38; Somerset-house, built by Seimor Duke of Somerset. Next, to pass by the rest, the Savoy (so call'd from Peter Earl of Savoy, who liv'd in it,) which Eleanor wife of Henry 3. bought of the Fraternity ofMontis Jo [...]s. Montjoy, and gave to her son Edmund Earl of Lancaster; whose posterity had it for a seat a good while, till Henry the seventh made it aPauperib [...] sacra [...] Hospital for the Poor39. Durham-house, built by Anthony Bec Bishop of Durham, and Patriarch of Jerusalem40. York-house (for so it has been call'd of late) formerly41 Bath house. But what do I giving particular names to these [...]. which do not belong to any one, but as Fortune disposes of them?
Westminster, W [...]tmin [...]er. formerly above a mile distant, is now by these Suburbs joyn'd so close to London, that it seems to be part of it; notwithstanding 'tis a distinct City of it self, and enjoys its own Magistrates and Privileges. Once it was call'd Thorney, from the thorns; now Westminster, from its westerly situation and the minster. For 'tis particularly eminent for that Church, for its Hall of Justice, and the King's Palace. The Church's greatest honour is deriv'd from the inauguration and burial of our Kings in it. Sulcardus affirms that there once stood in that place a Temple of Apollo, and that it was thrown down by an Earth-quake in the time of Antoninus Pius. Out of the ruins whereof Sebert King of the East-Saxons built another to St. Peter; which being destroy'd by the Danes, was re-edify'd and granted to a few Monks by Bishop Dunstan. But afterwards, King Edward sirnam'd the Confessor, built it anew out of the tenth peny of all his revenues, for a burying place to himself, and a Monastery to the Benedictine Monks; endowing it with lands dispers'd here and there through all England. But hear a cotemporary Historian: The devout and pious King has dedicated that place to God, both for its nearness to the famous and wealthy city, for its pleasant situation among fruitful grounds and green fields, and for the nearness of that principal river, which from all parts of the world conveys whatever is necessary to the adjoyning City. But above all, for the love he bore to the Prince of the Apostles, whom he always reverenc'd with a singular zeal and veneration, he made choice of that for the place of his sepulchre. Then he order'd a noble structure to be begun and built out of the tenths of his whole revenue▪ such a one as might become the Prince of the Apostles; that after the transitory course of this life he might find a propitious God, both upon account of his piety, and his free offering of those lands and ornaments with which he designs to enrich it. Whereupon, the work thus nobly begun is successfully carry'd on, without sparing for either present or future charges; so it may be made worthy of and acceptable to God and the Blessed [Apostle] Peter. Please also to take the form of this ancient building out of an old Manuscript: The Principa [...] area. body of the Church is roof'd with lofty Arches of square work, Pari commissura. the joints answering one another; but on both sides it is enclos'd with a double Arch of stones firmly cemented and knit together. Moreover, the Cross of the Church (made to encompass the middle Quire of the Canentium Domino. Singers, and by its double supporter on each side to bear up the lofty top of the middle tower) first rises singly with a low and strong arch, then mounts higher with several winding stairs artificially ascending, and last of all with a single wall reaches to the wooden roof well cover'd with lead. But 160 years after, Henry the third demolish'd this Fabrick of Edward's, and erected a new one of curious workmanship, supported by several rows of marble Pillars, and leaded over; which was fifty years in building. This the Abbots very much enlarg'd towards the west; and Henry the seventh, for the burial of himself andSuorum. his children, added to the east part of it a Chapel of a most neat and admirable contrivance (call'd by Leland the miracle of the world; for you'd say that all the Art in the world is crowded into this one work,) wherein is to be seen his own most splendid and magnificent Monument, made of solid brass [q]. After the expulsion of the Monks, it had several revolutions: first it had a Dean and Prebenda [...]ies; next one single Bishop, Thomas Thurlbey, who after he had squander'd away the revenues of the Church, gave it up, and surrender'd it42 to the Dean. Presently after, the Monks and their Abbot were restor'd by Queen Mary; but they being quickly ejected by Authority of Parliament, Queen Elizabeth converted it into a Collegiate Church, nay, I may say a Nursery of the Church. For she settl'd twelve Prebendaries, as many old Souldiers past service, forty Scholars (calld King's Scholars) sent successively to the Universities, and thence transplanted into Church and State, &c. Over all these she constituted a Dean43; which dignity not long since was honourably bore by Dr. Gabriel Goodman, a person of singular worth and integrity, and a particular Patron both to me and my studies.
There were bury'd in this Church (to run over those likewise in order,Princes bury'd in Westminster-Abbey. and according to their Dignity and the time when they dy'd:) Sebert first44 King of the East-Angles; Harold (bastard-son of Canutus the Dane) King of England; St. Edward King and Confessor, with his Queen Editha; Maud, wife to King Henry the first, and daughter to Malcolm King of Scots; Henry the third; Edward the first, his son, with Eleanor his wife, daughter to Ferdinand, third King of Castile and Leon. King Edward the third, and Philippa of Hanault his wife; Richard the second, and Anne his wife, sister of the Emperour Wenzelaus; Henry the fifth, with his wife Catharine, daughter of Charles the sixth, King of France; Anne, wife of Richard the third, and daughter of Richard Nevil, Earl of Warwick; Henry the seventh, with his wife Elizabeth 45, and his mother Margaret Countess of Richmond; K. Edward the sixth; Anne of Cleve, fourth wife to K. Henry 8. Queen Mary; and one not to be mention'd without the highest expressions both of respect and sorrow; I mean our late most serene Lady Queen Elizabeth Queen Elizabeth. of blessed memory, the darling of England; a Princess endow'd with heroick Vertues, Wisdom, and a greatness of Mind, much beyond her Sex, and incomparably skill'd both in Things and Languages. Here she lyes bury'd in a stately Monument erected for her out of a pious veneration by King James. But alas how inconsiderable is that Monument, in comparison of the noble qualities of so great a Lady! She her self is her own Monument, and a more magnificent and sumptuous one too than any other. For let those noble actions recommend her to the praise and admiration of Posterity; RELIGION REFORM'D, PEACE ESTABLISHT, MONEY REDUC'T TO ITS TRUE VALUE, A MOST COMPLEAT FLEET BUILT, NAVAL GLORY RESTOR'D, REBELLION SUPPRESS'D, ENGLAND FOR [Page 319-320] XLIIII. YEARS TOGETHER MOST PRUDENTLY GOVERN'D, ENRICHT, AND STRENGTHEN'D, SCOTLAND FREED FROM THE FRENCH, FRANCE IT SELF RELIEV'D, THE NETHERLANDS SUPPORTED, SPAIN AW'D, IRELAND QUIETED, AND THE WHOLE WORLD TWICE SAIL'D ROUND.
The Dukes and Lords [that have been bury'd here] are Edmund Earl of Lancaster, younger son to King Hen. 3. Avelina de Fortibus, Countess of Albemarle, his wife; William and Audomar de Valentia, of the family of Lusignia, Earls of Pembroke; Alphonse, John, and other Children of K. Edward 1.; John de Eltham Earl of Cornwall, son of K. Edward 2.; Thomas de Woodstock Duke of Glocester, youngest son of Edw. 3. with others of his children; Eleanor daughter and heir of Humfrey Bohun, Earl of Hereford and Essex, wife to Thomas de Woodstock; the young daughters of Edw. 4. and Hen. 7.; Henry, young son of Hen. 8. who dy'd at 2 months old; Sophia, daughter of K. James 1. who dy'dPrimo aetatis diluculo. almost assoon as born; Philippa, Dutchess of York; Lewis, Viscount Robsert of Hanault, in right of his wife, Lord Bourchier; Anne, the young daughter and heir of John Moubray D. of Norfolk, betroth'd to Rich. D. of York, younger son to K. Edw. 4.46 Giles Daubeney, Lord Chamberlain to K. Hen. 7. and his wife of the family of the Arundels in Cornwall; Viscount Welles; Frances Brandon Dutchess of Suffolk; Mary her daughter; Margaret Douglas Countess of Lenox, grand-mother to James K. of Great Britain, with Charles her son; Winefrid Bruges Marchioness of Winchester; Anne Stanhop Dutchess of Somerset, and Jane her daughter; Anne Cecil Countess of Oxford, daughter of Baron Burghley Lord high Treasurer of England, with her mother Mildred Burghley; Elizabeth Berkley Countess of Ormond; Frances Sidney Countess of Sussex;47 Thomas Butler Viscount Thurles, son and heir of the Earl of Ormond.
Besides, Humfrey Bourchier Lord Cromwell; another48 Humfrey Bourchier, son and heir of the Lord Berners, both slain in Barnet-fight.49 Nicholas Baron Carew; the Baroness of Powis; Thomas Baron Wentworth; Thomas Baron Wharton; John Lord Russel; Thomas Bromley Lord Chancellour of England; Douglasia 50 Howard daughter and heir of Viscount Bindon, wife of51 Arthur Gorge; Elizabeth daughter and heir of Edward Earl of Rutland, wife of William Cecil;52 John Puckering, Keeper of the Great Seal of England; Frances Howard Countess of Hertford; Henry and George Cary, father and son, Barons of Hunsdon, and Lord Chamberlains to Q. Elizabeth; the heart of Anne Sophia (the young daughter of Christopher Harley, Count de Beaumont, Embassador in England from the French King) put in a golden little Urn upon a Pyramid;53 Charles Earl of Devonshire, Lord Deputy of Ireland; and Geoffrey Chaucer, who being Prince of the English Poets, ought not to be pass'd by; as neither Edmund Spencer, who of all the English Poets came nearest him in a happy genius, and a rich vein of Poetry. There are also several others, both Clergy, and Gentlemen of quality [r].
Hard by, there was another College54 of 12 Canons, dedicated to S. Stephen; which King Edw. 3. rais'd to such a royal magnificence, and endow'd with such large possessions after he had carry'd his victories thro' France; that he seems rather to have been Founder, than only the Repairer; devoutly considering (as the Foundation-Charter has it) the great benefits of Christ, whereby, out of his rich mercy, we have been prevented upon all occasions, delivering us, altho' unworthy of it from divers perils; and by the right hand of his power mightily defending us, and giving us the victory in all the assaults of our enemies: as also, comforting us with unexpected remedies in the other tribulations and difficulties we have labour'd under. Near this was a Palace, the ancient habitation of the Kings of England from the time of S. Edward the Confessor; which in the reign of K. Hen. 8. was burnt down by a casual fire. This Palace was really large and magnificent,Fitz-Steph. a building not to be equall'd in that age, having a Ante [...] rale. vawmure, and bulwarks. For the remains of this, are the Chamber wherein the King, the Nobility, and great Ministers of State, meet in Parliament; and that next to it, wherein our Forefathers us'd to begin their Parliaments, call'd the painted Chamber of S. Edward55.
How bloody, black, hainous, and horrible, how odious to God and man that act was, whereby certain brutes in the shape of men, under that Archtraitor Fr. Catesby (by undermining,Fr. Catesby's Plot and placing a vast quantity of gun-powder under those buildings) lately contriv'd the destruction of their Prince, Country, and all the Estates of the Kingdom, out of a specious pretence of Religion; my very heart quakes to consider: and I cannot reflect, without the greatest horrour and astonishment, into what an inevitable darkness and lamentable ruin they would have thrown this most flourishing Kingdom, in a moment. But what an old Poet said in a matter of less concern, we may mournfully apply to our case:
Near these is the White-hall, wherein is at this day the Court of Requests. Below which, is that Hall larger than any of the rest,Westminster-Hall. the Praetorium and Hall of Justice for all England [s]. In this there are held Courts of Justice, namely, King's-Bench, Common-Pleas, Chancery; and in places round it, The Star-Chamber, the Exchequer, Court of Wards, Court of the Dutchy of Lancaster, &c. In these are heard Causes, at the set seasons or Terms of the year; whereas before the reign of Hen. 3. the General Court of Justice was moveable, and always follow'd the King's Court.Guil L [...] bard. But he, in his Magna Charta made a law in these words: The Common-Pleas shall not follow our Court, but be held in some one certain place. Tho' there are some who understand only by this, that the Common-Pleas should from that time forward be held in a distinct Court, and not in the Kings-bench, as formerly. ThePraetorium. Hall which we now have, was built by K. Rich. 2. as we learn from his Arms in the stone-work, and theLacunaribus. beams; which (having pull'd down that more ancient Hall built in the place by William Rufus) he made his own habitation. For then the Kings us'd to hear causes themselves, as being the [...], or Judges;Prov. c. 1 [...] whose mouth (as the Royal Pen-man has it) shall not err in judgment. But this Palace being burn'd down in the year 1512. lay desolate; and a little after, Henry 8. remov'd the Royal Seat to a neighbouring house that not long since was Cardinal Wolsey's; which they now call White-hall. This is a truly Royal Palace, enclos'd on one side with a Park, reaching to another house of the King's,56 built by K. Henry 8. and call'd S. James's57; on the other with the Thames. A certain Poet, from it's Whiteness, has term'd it Leucaeum.
Hard by, near the Mues, The M [...]s (so call'd because 'twas formerly a place for keeping of Hawks, but is now a beautiful stable for the King's horses,) there stands a monument which King Edw. 1. erected in memory of Queen Eleanor, Ch [...]ring-cross. the dearest husband to the most loving wife,The tenderness o [...] wife. whose tender affection will stand upon [Page 321-322] record to all posterity. She was daughter to Ferdinand 3. King of Castile; and marry'd to Edward 1. King of England, with whom she went into the Holy Land. When her husband was treacherously wounded by a Moor with a poyson'd sword, and rather grew worse than receiv'd any ease by what the Physicians apply'd to it, Rod [...]ricus T [...]tanus, l [...]b. 1. she found out a remedy, as new and unheard of, as full of love and endearment. For by reason of the malignity of the poyson, her husband's wounds could not possibly be clos'd: but she lick'd them dayly with her own tongue, and suck'd out the venomous humour, thinking it a most delicious liquor. By the power whereof, or rather by the virtue of a wife's tenderness, she so drew out the poysonous matter, that he was entirely cur'd of his wound, and she escap'd without catching any harm. What then can be more rare than this woman's expression of love? or what can be more admirable? The tongue of a wife, anointed (if I may so say) with duty and love to her husband, draws from her beloved those poysons which could not be drawn by the most approv'd Physician; and what many and most exquisite medicines could not do, is effected purely by the love of a wife.
And thus much of Westminster, which tho', as I observ'd, is a City of it self, and of a distinct Jurisdiction, I have taken in along with London, because it is so joyn'd to it by continu'd buildings, that it seems to be but one and the same City.
Ho [...]burn.On the west-side of the City, the Suburbs runs out with another row of beautiful buildings, namely Holborn, or rather Oldburn 58; wherein are some Inns for the study of the Common Law, and a house of the Bishops of Ely, becoming the State of a Bishop; which they owe to John Hotham Bishop of that See under Edward 3. The Suburbs grew likewise on the north-side; where Jordan Brisset, a pious and wealthy man, built an House for the Knights Hospitalers of S. John Ho [...]pitalers of S. John. of Jerusalem, that was afterwards improv'd into the stateliness of a Palace, and had a very beautiful Church with a high tower so neatly carry'd up, that while it stood, 'twas a singular ornament to the City. At their first Institution59, they were so humble while but poor, that their † Governour was call'd Servant to the poor Servants of the Hospital at Jerusalem; as that of the Templers,Templ [...]s. who arose a little afte [...] The humble Minister of the poor Knights of the Temple 60. But what for their piety, and bravery in war, their condition came to be so much alter'd from this mean state, by the bounty of good Princes and private persons, that they even abounded in every thing. For about the year 1240. they had nineteen thousand Lordships or Manours within Christendom; as the Templers had nine thousand (whose revenues here in England fell also afterwards to the Hospitalers. M [...]tth. Par. And this vast increase of revenues made them so effectual a passage to great honours, that their Prior was reckon'd the first Baron of England, and liv'd in great state and plenty, till King Henry 8. by the instigation of bad Counsellors, seis'd upon all their lands; as he did also upon those belonging to the Monasteries: which out of a pious design were dedicated to God's glory, and by the Canons of the Church were to be expended upon the maintenance of Priests, relief of the poor, redemption of Captives, and the repair of Churches. Near this place, where there is now a stately circuit of houses, was formerly a rich House of the Carthusians, C [...]ter-h [...]se. built by61 Walter Many of Hainault, who got great honour by his service in the French War under Edward 3. And before that there was a very famous Church-yard, which in that plague of London in the year 1349. had above fifty thousand men bury'd in it; as appear'd by an Inscription in brass, whereby it was convey'd to posterity [t].
The Suburbs also which runs out on the north-west side of London, is large, and had formerly a watch-tower or militaryPraetentura. fence, from whence it came to be call'd by an Arabick name, Barbacan. Barbacan. By the gift of Edw. 3. it became a seat of the Uffords; G [...]leottus Martius. from whom by the Willoughbies it descended to62 Peregrine Bertie Lord Willoughby of Eresby, a person every way of a generous temper, and a true martial courage. Nor are the Suburbs that shoot forth towards the north-east, and east, less considerable; in the fields whereof, whilst I am upon this work, there are digg'd up many sepulchral Vessels, Seals, and Urns, with Coins in them of Claudius, Nero, Vespasian, &c. Glass Vials also, with small earthen vessels, wherein was a sort of liquid Substance, which I should imagine to be either an oblation of wine and milk (us'd by the Romans at the burning of their dead) or those odoriferous Liquors mention'd by Statius,
This was a place set apart by the Romans for burning and burying their dead; being oblig'd by the Twelve Tables to carry them without the Cities, and to bury them by the military high-ways63. And thus much of the land-side of the City [u].
But upon the river-side, and the south part of it,Borough of Southwark. See Surrey, p. 160. that large Borough of Southwark before-mention'd, is joyn'd to the city with a bridge; first built on wooden piles, where formerly instead of a bridge they pass'd the water in a ferry. Afterwards,The Bridge. in the reign of K. John, they built a new one of free-stone, and admirable workmanship, with 19 Arches, beside that which makes theVersatilis. Draw-bridge; and so continu'd it all along like a street with most handsome buildings, that it may claim a preheminence over all the bridges in Europe, whether you look upon the largeness or beauty.
In this Borough of Southwark, the things that have been remarkable, are, a noble Abbey for Monks of the Benedictine Order, call'd Bermondsey, erected formerly to our Saviour by Aldwin▪ Child, S. Saviour. Citizen of London; and a stately house built by Charles Brandon Duke of Suffolk,Suffolk-house. which was pull'd down again after it had been for a little time the delight of its Master. There still remains the Hospital of S. Thomas, St. Thomas Hospital. repair'd or rather founded by the City of London, for the lame and infirm; and the Church of the Priory of St. Mary, (which because it is seated over the Thames, is with respect to the City of London call'da S. Mary Over-Rhe,) founded for64 Canons by William Ponte del Arche a Norman; as also the house of the Bishops of Winchester, built by William Gifford Bishop, about the year 1107. for the use of his successors. From this along the Thames-side, there runs westward a continu'd line of houses, in which compass, within the memory of our fathers, there were Publick Stews, call'd by the Latins Lupanaria, (wherein Whores prostituted and set to sale their modesty,) because they, like rapacious She-wolves, hale miserable silly people into their dens. But these were prohibited by King Hen. 8. at a time when England was at the height of Lust and Luxury; tho' in foreign nations they are still continu'd for gain, under the specious pretence of making allowance to humane infirmity, But I do not believe that they call'd this place in our language The Stews, Stewes. from these Bawdy houses, but from the fish-ponds here for the fatting ofLucios. Pikes and Tench, and scowring off their muddy fennish taste. Here I have seen the bellies of Pikes open'd with a knife to shew their fatness, and the gaping wounds presently clos'd by the touch of Tenches, and by their glutinous slime perfectly heal'd up. Among these buildings, there is a place for Bull-bating and Bear-bating, with certain several Kennels [Page 323-324] of Band-dogs, Canes cathenai. which are so strong and bite so close, that three of them are able to manage a Bear, and four a Lion. So that what the Poet said formerly of our Dogs, That they could break the necks of Bulls, is very true; as is also what another observ'd, That they are more fierce and eager than the Arcadian ones, suppos'd to be engender'd of Lions [w].
At what time this Borough was joyn'd to London by a bridge, the City was not only enlarg'd, but also modell'd into an excellent form of Government; the Citizens being distributed intoCorpora sive Collegia. Bodies or Colleges. The City it self was divided into 26 Wards,Wards. and the management of all publick concerns put in the hands of as many ancient Men,Tribus. (call'd in our language from their age, Aldermen; in Latin, Senatores,) each of whom had the government of one Ward. And whereas formerly they had for their chief Magistrate a Port-reve, i.e. aPraefectus. Governour of the City, King Richard ordain'd two Bailiffs; instead of which King John granted them the privilege of choosing a MayorMayor. yearly out of their twelve principal Companies, and of nominating two Vice-Comites or Sheriffs, the one call'd the King's, and the other the City-Sheriff.
After this new Government was establisht, 'tis incredible how it grew in publick and private Buildings, and is still growing (the rest of the Cities in England rather decaying.) For to pass by the Senate-house, 1411 call'd Guild-hall, built with great beauty by65 Tho. Knowles, 1445 Mayor; and Leaden hall, a large and curious piece of work, built by Simon Eire, for a common Garner to beat down the price of Corn in times of dearth. That circuit of Pillars also (or the middle Janus, Bursa.) which the Common-people call the Burse, but Queen Elizabeth nam'd the Royal Exchange, 1567. Royal Exchange. built by Sir Thomas Gresham Knight, for the use of Merchants and the ornament of the City. A magnificent thing it is, whether you consider the Structure it self, the resort of Merchants from all Nations, or the variety of Commodities. The same person, being a great admirer of Learning, consecrated a spacious house that he had in the City to the improvement of good Letters,Gresham-College. and settled gentele Salaries upon six Professors, of Divinity, Law, Physick, Astronomy, Geometry, and Musick; that London might not only be, as it were, a shop of all kind of wares, but a treasury also of Arts and Sciences. To pass by also the house of the Hanse-Company 66; the conveyance of water into all parts of the City by pipes under ground, and neat Castles for the reception of it; together with the new Aquiduct, lately contriv'd by Peter Maurice, a German of great ingenuity and industry, and by the help of a wheel with little pipes plac'd at a certain level, brings water out of the Thames to a great part of the City. Besides these, I say, it is in all parts so beautified with Churches and Religious houses, that one would think Religion and Piety had made choice of it for their residence. For it has in it 121 Churches, more than Rome67 her self can show; besidesNosocomia & Xenodochia. Hospitals: and particularly in that Nursery of young boys, call'd Christ-Church; it maintains about 600 Orphans [x]; and 1240 poor people that live upon Alms, &c. It would be too tedious to insist particularly upon the excellency of its Laws and Constitutions, the dignity of its Governours, loyalty and obedience to their Prince, the courteousness of the Citizens, the splendour of its buildings, the many choice and excellent Wits it produces; the pleasure of it's gardens in the Suburbs, admirably stockt with foreign Herbs; its numerous and well appointed fleet; that incredible treasure of all sorts of Commodities, (particularly it furnishes Antwerp yearly with two hundred thousandPannorum Lancorum. woollen Cloaths, besides what it sends to other places;) and the great plenty of whatever either the necessity or convenience of humane life requires.68 So what H. Junius says in his Philippeis is very true:
And J. Scaliger in his Book of Cities:
Another also hammer'd out these verses concerning London, if you vouchsafe to read them:Wedding of Tame and [...].
Henry of Huntingdon also in the time of King Stephen 69, writes thus in commendation of London:
And another in a Poëtical vein penn'd this:
But my friend the famous John Jonston of Aberdeen, Professor of Divinity in the Royal University of St. Andrew's, has manag'd the subject more soberly:
But these matters, with others of this kind, are handl'd more at large, and with more accuracy by John Stow, a Citizen of London and a famous Chronicler, in his Survey of London but lately publisht. And so I will take leave of my dear native place, after I have observ'd that the Latitude of it is 51 Degrees, 34 Minutesb; and the Longitude 23 Degrees, and 25 Minutes: thatOrpheus's [...]arp. Fidicula, of the nature of Venus and Mercury, is the Topick Star, which glances upon the Horizon, but never sets; and that the Dragon's-head is lookt upon by Astrologers as the Vertical.
Radcliff.The Thames leaving London, waters Redcliff, a neat little Town, inhabited by Sea-men; and so call'd from the red cliff. Next, after it has took a great winding, it receives the river Lea, the Eastern bound of this County69, which yet has nothing situate upon it belonging to this shire, that's worth our notice. For Aedelmton, Edmonton. Waltham-Cross. has nothing remarkable but the name, deriv'd from nobility: nor Waltham, but a Cross built by King Edward the first for the funeral pomp of Queen Eleanor, from which it has [part of] the name. Only there is Enfield, Enfield-chase. a Royal seat, built by Thomas Lovel (Knight of the Garter, and Privy-Councellor to King Henry the seventh70) as one may infer from the Arms. Near which is a place cloath'd with green trees, and famous for Dee [...]-hunting, Enfield-chace; formerly the possession of the Magnavils Earls of Essex, then of the Bohuns their Successors, but now belongs to the Dutchy of Lancaster, ever since Henry the fourth, King of England, marry'd a Daughter and Co-heir of the last Humfrey Bohun. And almost in the middle of this Chace, there are still the ruins and rubbish of an ancient house, which the common people from tradition affirm to have belong'd to the Magnavils Earls of Essex71.
Towards the north bounds of Middlesex, a Military way of the Romans, commonly call'd Watlingstreet, enters this County; coming straight along from the old Verulam through Hamsted-heath (from which one has a curious prospect of a most beautiful City, and a most pleasant Country.) Then, not where the Road lies now through Highgate, for that (as is before observ'd) was open'd only obout 300 years ago by permission of the Bishop of London: but that more ancient one (as appears by the old Charters of Edward the Confessor) pass'd along near Edgeworth, Edgeworth. a place of no great antiquity; so on to Hendon, Hendon. which Archbishop Dunstan (a man born for promoting the interest of Monkery) purchas'd for a few Bizantine pieces of gold, and gave to the Monks of St. Peter's in Westminster. These Bizantini aurei were Imperial money coyn'd at Bizantium or Constantinople by the Grecian Emperors; but what the value of it was, I know not. There was also a sort of silver-money call'd simply Bizantii and Bizantini, Bizantine Coins. which (as I have observ'd here and there in ancient Records) were valu'd at two shillings. But leaving those matters to the search of others, I will go forward on the Journey I have begun.
In this County, without the City, there are about 73 Parishes; within the City, Liberties and Suburbs, c 221.
ADDITIONS to MIDDLESEX.
THE Extent of this County being very small, and our Author (a native of it) having already been very nice and copious in its description; the Reader must not expect any great advance, either in the corrections or additions to it.
[a] The first place that admits of further remarks, is Uxbridge, Uxbridge. made more famous since our Author's days, by a treaty there held Jan. 30. 1644. temp. Car. 1. between the King and Parliament then sitting at Westminster. Of which we have a full relation given us by Sir William Dugdale in his View of the late Troubles, printed at Oxon 1681. to which I refer the Reader for a more particular account.
[b] After Uxbridge, Stanes S [...]nes. is the next Market-Town that offers it self to our consideration, which though some would have so named from a Roman Milliarium here placed; yet I rather inclined to agree with our Author in his conjecture. For Stanes doth not lye upon the Roman way betwixt London and Pontes, or any other of that kind; upon which the Milliaria or mile-stones were only set. An Army of Danes in the year 1009. after they had burnt Oxford, returning on the Thames side, and hearing that an Army from London was coming against them, past the River at this Town as the Saxon Chronicle tells us; [...]dem A [...]no. and so went into Kent, to repair their Ships.
[c] Below Lalam, where Caesar crossed the Thames, within view of the River, stands Harrow H [...]rrow. on the hill, being the highest ground in this whole County, and therefore made choice of by William Bolton the last Prior of great St. Bartholomew's in Smithfield, to build him a house on, to preserve him from a Deluge which was prognosticated from certain Eclipses in watery signs, and was to happen in the year 1524. With this not only the vulgar, but also learned men were so unreasonably infatuated, that they victuall'd themselves (as both Hall andChron. in An. p. 1014. Speed confidently report) and went to high grounds for fear of being drown'd. Amongst whom was this Prior, who not only provided himself with a house here at Harrow, but carried all sorts of provisions with him thither, to serve him for the space of two months. Mr.Survey, p. 417, 419. Stow I acknowledge would have all this to be a fable, and that Prior Bolton being also Parson of Harrow, did only repair his Parsonage-house, and build a Dove coat to serve him with that sort of fowl, after he was spoiled of his Priory: but the date of this Deluge, and the dissolution of the Priory (which was not till Anno 1539. 30 Hen. 8.) not well agreeing, I know not what to say to it, but leave it to the Reader's decision.
[d] As for the Royal Palace of Hampton Court, Hampton Court. inviron'd, both House and Parks, on three sides with the River Thames, and consequently enjoying as pleasant a situation, as the prudence of its first founder Cardinal Wolsey could select for it; it was indeed (as our Author says) a piece of work of great magnificence for the age it was built in: but the additions made to it by their present Majesties, do so far excel what it was before, that they evidently shew what vast advancements Architecture has receiv'd since that time. The gardens also are improv'd to a wonderful degree, not only in the walks both open and close, and the [Page 327-328] great variety of Topiary-works; but with Green-houses too, having stoves under them, so artificially contriv'd, that all foreign plants are there preserved in gradual heats, suitable to the Climes of their respective Countries, whereof they are natives. In short, the whole seems to be design'd with so much magnificence, that when it is finisht, the noblest Palaces must fall short of it.
[e] Somewhat lower upon the river lyes the town of Brentford, B entford. where the Thames was anciently so easily forded, and is so still (I mean at old Brentford, there being now at low ebb not above three foot water) that (beside the instance mention'd by our Author,)Chron. Sax. in Anno 1016. King Edmund past the Thames again at the same place, and went thence into Kent after the Enemy, where he prevail'd so against them, that he drove them into Shepey. Ibidem. Since which time I do not find any thing of moment that ever happen'd here till 1642. when King Charles 1. (coming after his victory at Edghill with his forces from Oxford towards London) with the loss but of ten men, beat two of the best Regiments of the Parliament-forces out of this town, kill'd their Commander in chief, took 500 Prisoners, as many Arms, eleven Colours, fifteen pieces of Canon, and then marcht to Oatlands, Reading, and so back again to Oxford. In which action the right honourable Patric Ruthen Earl of Forth in Scotland, performing the part of an expert and valiant Commander, was first made General of the King's Army; and in further consideration of his eminent services, by Letters Patents bearing date at Oxford, May 27. 20 Car. 1. advanced to the dignity of an Earl, by the title of Earl of Brentford in this County; upon account (no doubt) of that particular service he did here.
Near the Roman high-way which passes through this town and so over Hounslow-heath toward Pontes, lyes the village of Arlington, Arlington. aliàs Harlington, which having been the ancient seat of the Bennets, and particularly of Sir Henry Bennet, principal Secretary of State, and one of the Privy Council to King Charles the second; when his Majesty thought fit to set a mark of Honour on him, for the many signal services he had done the Crown, in the Court, the Camp, and in foreign Embassies, this place was thought of, as most proper for his title, whereof he was first created Baron, afterwards Earl, and quickly after made Knight of the most noble order of the Garter, and in Sept. 1674. Lord Chamberlain of the House-hold.
[f] Below Brentford, on the other side of the river, lyes Fulham, Fulham. in Saxon, Fullan-hamme, and Fullan homme, remarkable not only for the Bishop of London's house there, but (as the Saxon Chronicle and that of Mailros both tell us) for an Army of the Danes wintering there An. Dom. 879. whence they decampt the same year, and went into Flanders, then call'd Fronc-land, and encampt themselves at Gaunt, where they remain'd another year.
[g] And below that Chelsey, Chelsey. where a College was once design'd for Students in Divinity, and others, who were to make it their whole business to oppose the Church of Rome; as appears by an Act of Parliament 7 Jac. 1. and a Declaration set forth by the same King An. 1616. specifying what mov'd the King and State to found this College, and why here rather than at either of the Universities; for account whereof I refer the Reader to Mr.P. 257, &c. Stow's Survey. For the furtherance whereof the King sent his Letters to the Archbishop of Canterbury, to move all the Bishops and whole Clergy of his Province, to put to their helping hands; which though actually done, and in a time of deep peace, andS. Hern's D [...]mus Carthu [...]iana, p. 58. though eagerly sollicited by Dr. Sutcliff Dean of Exeter, the first design'd Provost, and our Author Mr. Camden, who was one of the Fellows of it; yet the building it self (not to mention the want of endowments) could never be further advanced than the outward shell of a College.
In which condition it stood till the Restoration of King Charles the second; who quickly after, erecting another Royal Society at London for promoting natural knowledge, gave it to them: but they never attempting any thing toward finishing or using it, conveyed it back to the same King, to build an Hospital in the place of it, for the maintenance of wounded and superannuated Soldiers; which being begun by him, was carried on by his Successor King James the second, and is finisht and furnisht with all sorts of Necessaries and Conveniencies by their present Majesties. 'Tis indeed a Structure well suiting the munificence of its Royal Founders; being more nobly accommodated with all sorts of Offices, and adorned with more spatious walks and gardens, perhaps than any Nobleman's house or College in the Kingdom.
[h] Hence our Author brings us to London, London. the capital city of England, where he first give us an account of it's various names, and etymologies of them; to which I shall only add,Chron. Sax. that it was also call'd by the Saxons Lundone, Lundune, and Lundenburh; and has another etymology given us of it's Latin name by the judicious Mr. Somner, Glossar. ad X. Script. who derives it from the British Llawn, plenus, frequens, and dyn, homo; or din (the same with dinas) urbs, civitas; either of which joyned wit Llawn, will signifie a populous place, as London has always been.
[i] As to the original of the City, tho' we have no certain account,City bui [...]. it not being clear that there was any such place in Caesar's time, and yet a great town of trade in Nero's, as Tacitus witnesses; doubtless it must be founded within that little compass of time between those Emperours; and in all probability (as the learnedOrig. B [...]t. p. 43. Bishop of Worcester thinks) about the time of Claudius, and inhabited by the Romans and Britains together, being a trading, tho' not a military Colony (as Camulodunum was) from the very beginning. But it flourish'd not long; for in the very next reign of the Emperour Nero, upon that grand revolt of the Iceni and Trinobantes under Boodicia, his Lieutenant Suetonius Paulinus judging it not tenible, and taking away from it to his aid the choicest of the Citizens, it was quickly sack'd by the Britains, and the remaining inhabitants barbarously massacred, without any regard to sex or age.
So that I cannot so fully agree with our Author, when he asserts that this has been a City vix unquam magnis calamitatibus conflictata, Suffer'd several Calamities. that scarce ever engag'd any great calamity. For not only in it's infancy, but when grown to a greater bulk, in the year 839. in the reign of King Ethelwolf, it was surprized by the Danes, and the Citizens inhumanly butcher'd. Quickly after, in the year 851. it was again sack'd by the Danes, the army of Beorhtwulf King of Mercia, who came to it's defence, being totally routed. Again in the year 872. in the days of King Ethelred, the Danes took it, and winter'd in it. And so again An. 1013. after a great fight with Swane King of Denmark who besieg'd it, the Citizens were at last forc'd to admit him and his army to winter in it, and to pay him such tribute as he demanded. Lastly, in the year 1016. it was twice besieg'd, and so much streighten'd by Canutus, that they were necessitated in fine to receive him into the city, give him winter quarters, and to buy their peace with a sum of moneyCh [...]. Sax. [...] An [...].. Not to mention the grievous insults that were made upon it of later years by Wat Tyler and Jack Straw, temp. Rich. 2. An. 1381. of Jack Cade (otherwise call'd by his followers John Mend-all) An. 1450. temp. Hen. 6. and the bastard Falconbridge, temp. Edw. 4. An. 1481.
Nor has it suffer'd only by the sword; it being much wasted by fire, asPoly [...] Lib. [...]. Ranulph Higden tells us, An. 983. And in the year 1077, in the days of William the Conquerour, it was also consumed by so great a fire, as had not happen'd to it (as the Saxon Chronicle expresses it) since it's foundation.Ch [...]. Sax p [...] Quickly after again, in the same King's reign, An. 1086. the Church of S. Paul was quite burnt down, with the greatest and most splendid part of the City.Stow's Survey, p. 2 [...]. Again in the year 1135. the first of King Stephen, by a fire which began in Cannon-street near London-stone, the City was consumed from thence to the Eastward as far as Aldgate; to S. Paul's Church Westward; and to the South as far as Southwark; the bridge (then of timber) being quite burnt down. It was afterwards rebuilt of stone, and houses set upon it, but [Page 329-330] within four years after it was finish'd (An. 1212.) upon occasion of a fire in Southwark, (whilst a multitude of people were passing the bridge, either to extinguish, or to gaze at it,) on a sudden the houses on the North end of the bridge, by a strong South wind, were set on fire. So that the people thronging betwixt two fires, could now expect no help but from the vessels in the river, which came in great numbers to their assistance; but the multitude so unadvisedly rush'd into them, that they were quickly overset, and the people drown'd; and betwixt fire and water, there perish'd above 3000 personsG alt. [...] L [...] D [...]n [...] [...] S.. Also Feb. 13. An. 1033. a third part at least of the same bridge was again burnt downS [...]w's [...], p. [...]..
[...] of L [...]don.But the most dreadful fire that ever befell this great City, was that which happen'd within our own memory, viz. on Sunday Sept. 2. An. 1666. which beginning in Pudding-lane, in three days time (being driven by a fresh easterly wind) consumed no less than 89 Churches, the Guild-hall, Hospitals, Schools and Libraries, 15 entire Wards of the 26, leaving 8 of the rest half burnt and miserably shatter'd. In this compass were 400 streets, and in them 13200 houses, which cover'd no less than 436 acres of ground. It destroying all on the Thames-side, from that of Allhallows Barkin to the Temple Church, and all along from the North-east walls of the City to Holburn-bridge: and when all artificial helps fail'd, it languish'd and went out of it self, tho' amongst as combustible buildings as any it had burnt before. In memory whereof, near the place where the fire began, is erected a magnificent Pillar (somewhat resembling, except the Imagery, those of Trajan and Antonine at Rome) of 202 foot high, which equals exactly the distance of the Pillar from the place where the fire first began.
[k] In which Conflagration, the magnificent Church of St. Pauls S Pa [...]l's. did not escape; the foundation whereof was laid so very large, that (as our Author notes) tho' the whole revenues of the Bishoprick for 20 years together were given toward it by Richard Beaumes, successor to Mauricius the first founder; yet they seemed so little to advance the work, that his successors, and all others, despaired of its ever being finish'd, at least by private hands. Wherefore, they were forced to apply themselves to the bounty of all good people throughout the Realms both of England and Ireland, as appears by the hortatory Letters of several Bishops of both nations, to the Clergy under their charge, for recommendation of the business to their particular Congregations. By which Letters there were Indulgences granted for release of Penance enjoined, extending to certain numbers of days, to all such as being truly penitent, should afford their assistance toward this great work; which Indulgences were not only granted to the Contributors toward it, but also to the Sollicitors for Contributions, and to the very Mechanicks who laboured in itDugdale's H [...]st. of S. Paul's..
By this means, in the space of about 72 years, viz. An. 1312. it seems to have been finish'd, being paved that year with good firm marble which cost 5 d. per foot. An exact measure was then also taken of it, which being written in a Tablet in large Characters, heretofore hung on the north part of the Quire, from whence our Author seems to have taken the dimensions; for he differs in nothing from what was exprest in the Table, but in the height of the steeple. Tho' the height of the tower indeed from the level of the ground was 260 foot, and the height of the spire above it 274, as he says; yet the whole, viz. both of tower and spire, did not exceed 520 foot, as is testify'd by the Tablet, (whereof there is a MS. Copy in the publick Library in Cambridge;) and this is 14 foot short of the height mention d by our Author, who makes it 534 foot high, agreeable to the two dimensions of the tower and spire added together, which must indeed have been true, had the spire risen from the summit of the battlements: whereas I suppose it rose (as the spires of most steeples do) much below them; the battlements here rising 14 foot above the base of the spire, which must occasion the difference.
Nor is our Author only out in the height of the steeple (and length of the Church too,Survey, p. 353. if Stow may be believed, who in the year 1599. says it was found to be 720 foot long) but defective in the dimensions of the Ball and Cross, which were also set down in the same Tablet. The Ball above the head of the spire being so very large, that it would contain in it ten bushels of corn, and the length of the Cross above the said Ball or Pommel 15 foot, and the traverse 6. In which Cross the reliques of divers Saints were put by Gilbert de Segrave then Bishop of London, to the intent that God Almighty by the glorious merits of his Saints (whose reliques were therein contained,) would vouchsafe to preserve the steeple from all danger of tempests. But how ineffectual those matters were for that purpose, after-ages shewed; for within 132 years after, viz. An. 1444. 22 Hen. 6. the shaft or Spire was fired by Lightning, which tho' happily quenched by the labour of many well disposed people, yet did so much harm, that it was not sufficiently repaired till the year 1462. 2 Edw. 4. when a costly Weathercock of Copper gilt (the length whereof from head to tail was 4 foot, the breadth over the wings 3 foot and a half, of 40 pounds weight) was added to it; the Cross whereon it stood (that from the Ball upwards was 15 foot 6 inches long; and the traverse 5 foot 10 inches) being made within of firm Oak, and cover'd first with Lead, which was plated over again with Copper varnish'd red, the Ball being also of Copper gilt, in compass 9 foot and one inch, as appear'd by measure at the taking of it down for it's better repair An. 1553. 1 Mariae.Dugd. Hist. of S. Paul's
And thus being brought once more to perfection, it stood not much above an hundred years, but a more deplorable mischance befell it again by Lightning, July 4. An. 1561. 3 Eliz. whereby the shaft was first set on fire about 3 yards from the top; which being wholly consumed, it next seized the roof of the Church and Iles, burning down all the rafters, and whatever else was liable to it, in 4 hours time. The repair hereof was prosecuted with that zeal and diligence by the Queen, Clergy, and Layity, that in Apr. 1566. all the roofs of timber were perfectly finish'd, and cover'd with lead: only the steeple (tho' divers models were then made of it) was left imperfect, which continued so, notwithstanding the attempts made towards it's farther reparation temp. Jac. 1. and by Archbishop Laud temp. Car. 1. till it was again wholly consumed just a hundred years after,Ibidem. in that dreadful Conflagration above-mention'd, An. 1666. In the account whereof I have been thus particular, because even what the fire it self left, is now also demolish'd to the very foundation, in order to the structure of that stupendous pile, now erecting, the charge whereof is chiefly supported by an impost on Sea-coal; which certainly is a much better fund than that of Benevolence, whereby the former Church was built. The description hereof (because not yet near perfected) I leave to posterity.
[l] As to what some conjecture,Diana's Temple. that the Church of S. Paul covers the same ground where there anciently stood a Temple of Diana in the times of Paganism, induced thereunto by the name of some adjacent tenements, which the Dean and Chapter in their Leases call Camera Dianae; and the Stags-head fix'd upon the point of a spear, and carry'd about the Church in solemn procession, suitably to the ancient devotions to Diana. Much rather should I have founded such an opinion upon the witty conceit of Mr. Selden, who (upon occasion of some Ox-heads, sacred also to Diana) discover'd in digging the foundations of a new Chapel on the south-side of S. Pauls An. 1316. would insinuate that the name of London imported no more than Llan Dien, i.e. Templum Dianae. For as for the tenements call'd Camera Dianae, they stood not so near the Church as some would have us think, but on S. Pauls-wharf-hill near Doctors Commons, and took their denomination from a spacious Building full of intricate turnings, wherein King Hen. 2. (as he did at Woodstock) kept his hearts delight, whom he there call'd Fair Rosamund, and here Diana. Of which winding vaults there remain'd some parts in Mr. Stow's time,Survey, p. 781. as also of a passage [Page 331-332] under ground from Baynard's Castle to it; which possibly might be the King's way to his Camera Dianae, or secret apartment of his beautiful Mistress.
And as to the donation of a Buck annually to the Dean and Chapter on the feast of the Commemoration of St. Paul, and carrying the head in procession before the Cross; it was so far from being a relique of Paganism, that it seems to have been a plain composition betwixt the Church and the Family of Baud, of no older date than the 3d of Edw. 1. in lieu of 22 Acres of Land, parcel of their Manour of Westley, granted to Sir William Baud, to be took into his Park at Coringham in Essex. Which being an acknowledgment so naturally arising from the use of the Grant, I cannot imagine there should be any thing more in'tIbid. p. 368..
But though this do not much countenance the opinion, yet ought it not to be altogether rejected, as receiving some confirmation from the pieces of Antiquity dugg up hereabouts. For in making the foundation of this new Fabrick, among other things they cast up the teeth of Boars and of other beasts, a piece of a Buck's horn, with several fragments of Vessels, which by the figure one would imagine to have been us'd in their Sacrifices. A great number of these (with an entire Urn, a Lamp, and other things belonging to the Roman Funerals, and dugg up in Goodman's-fields,) are in the hands of my ingenious Friend Henry Worsley of Lincolns-Inn, Esq
Persons buried in this Church.[m] To conclude the History of St. Paul's, our Author gives us a breviat of the royal and noble persons interr'd in it; to whom we must needs add Robert Braybrook Bishop of London, and sometime Lord high Chancellor of England,Dugd. Hist. of St. Pauls. who dy'd Aug. 27. Anno 1404. 5 Hen. 4. above 260 years before the ruin of this Church in 1666. yet upon pulling down the stone-work, and removal of the rubbish, his body was found entire, the skin still inclosing the bones and fleshy parts; only in the breast there was a hole (made I suppose by accident) through which one might either view or handle his lungs. The skin was of a deep tawny colour, and the body very light, as appear'd to all who came to view and handle it, it being expos'd in a Coffin for some time without any thing of an ill smell; and then reinterr'd. To which Mr.Survey, p. 227. Stow gives us a parallel History in this very City, in the corps of one Alice Hackney, wife of Richard Hackney Sheriff of London 15 Edw. 2. An. 1321. whose body being dugg up by the Labourers in April Anno 1497. (as they were working the foundations of a Wall in the Parish Church of St. Mary-hill) was found with her skin whole, her bones all in their natural posture, and the joynts of her arms pliable; but yielding an ill smell, after it had been kept four days above ground. In which two last points, this (though equally entire) differ'd from the former: whence 'tis very evident they had in ancient times, more ways than one of preserving the dead from corruption, as well as now.
Increase of London.[n] And lastly, to conclude his account of the whole City, he gives us relations out of Malmsbury and Fitz Stephen, of its excess in trade and magnitude at the time of the Conquest, and increase in both since; the Subu [...]bs in his time having extended themselves in one continued range of building as far as Westminster. To which let me add its further advancement in our days, which hath been so very great, that (as the ingeniousPolitic, Ess [...]y. Sir William Petty hath probably computed it, from the number of the burials and houses in each City) the City of London in Anno 1683. or thereabout, was as big as Paris and Rouen (the two best Cities of the French Monarchy) put together; and that now (above 7 parts of 15 having been new built since the great fire, and the number of inhabitants increased near one half, the total amounting to near 700000) it is become equal to Paris and Rome put together.
[o] In the Suburbs he takes notice of the most eminent buildings, and amongst them of the Rolls Rolls. in Chancery-lane, which was founded by King Hen. 3. Anno 1233. in the 17th of his reign (in the place of a Jews house to him forfeited) for the support of converted Jews, and therefore stiled Domus Conversorum; where all such Jews and Infidels converted to the Christian Faith, had sufficient maintenance allowed them, were instructed in the Doctrine of Christ, and liv d under a Christian Governour; till Anno 1290. when all the Jews were banisht out of the realm: by which means the number of Converts necessarily decaying, and the house becoming as it were depopulated, it was granted to William Burstall, Custos Rotulorum, by Letters Patents bearing date 51 Edw. 3. for keeping of the Rolls, which Grant was ratified in Parliament 1 Rich. 2. and by other Letters Patents 6 Rich. 2. Notwithstanding which Grant and Ratifications, all converted Jews have ever since been allowed (and will be hereafter, as often as any such shall appear) one penny half penny per diem toward their maintenance: which allowance was paid to Peter Samuel and John Maza, two converted Jews, Anno 1685. 2 Jac. 2. as appears by the Master of the Rolls account in the Hannaper, and a Constat out of the Pell-office, both of the date above-mention'd; who were the two last I can find that ever enjoy'd this benefitMS. in Capel. Ro [...]..
[p] In the Suburbs lying along the Thames-side, betwixt Temple-barr and Westminster, were many other houses as well of the spiritual as temporal Nobility, beside those mention'd by our Author. For the Bishops of Exeter, Bath and Wells, Salisbury, Lichfield and Coventry, Worcester, Norwich, Landaff, Carlisle, Durham, and the Archbishop of York, had all anciently houses here: and so had the Dukes of Buckingham, and the Earls of Exeter, Worcester and Northumberland; as the Dukes of Somerset and Beaufort, the Earls of Bedford, Salisbury, and Rivers, have all still houses remaining here.
[q] From the Suburbs our Author proceeds next to the Abbey-Church of Westminster, Westminster. and the magnificent Chapel of King Henry 7. which he erected in the place of the Chapel of our Lady (built before with the Church by King Henry 3.) and a Tavern near adjoyning; both which being pull'd down, he laid the foundation of this, Jan. 24. 1502 fetching most of the stone from Huddlestone quarrey in Yorkshire. The whole charge of it amounted to no less than 14000 pound sterling. His own Tomb of brass is here richly gilt, made and finisht Anno 1519. by one Peter a painter of Florence, for which he had paid him (for materials and workmanship) a thousand pound sterling by the King's ExecutorsStow's Survey, p. 499..
The School,The School. as it is famous for the great service it has done both to Church and State; so is it more particularly memorable for the relation our Author had once to it, and for Dr. Busbey its present Master, whose worth and learning has these many years supported its reputation. To the latter of these it is beholding for its Museum, and for several improvements both in beauty and convenience: as is the Master's house (wherein he has all along liv'd) for its enlargement. The same person has built his Prebend's house there anew, has pav'd the Quire of Westminster-Abbey with white and black marble stone, and added a building to the King's Hospital of Green-coats in Turtil-fields. In Buckinghamshire, he hath rais'd from the ground the Church of Willen, where his estate lyes; at Wells he has built a Library; and is at this time repairing the Church of Lutton.
[r] In the Church and Chapel our Author numbers many other Kings, Queens,Persons buried in Westminster-Abbey. and Princes that have been there bury'd before and since King Hen. 7. To the Catalogue whereof we must needs add King Edward the fifth, and his Brother Richard Duke of York, who were most barbarously smother'd to death with Pillows in the Tower of London Anno 1483. by order of their unnatural Uncle Richard Duke of Glocester. Their bodies (thoughContinue [...] of Harding's Chron. some have written they were put into a leaden Coffin and cast into the black deeps near the Thames mouth, by Sir Robert Brackenburies Priest) were found July 17. 1674. by some workmen who were employed to take up the steps leading into the Chapel of the white Tower, which in all probability was the first and only place they were deposited in. Thence their bones (except some few of them sent to the Museum at OxfordCatalog [...] MS. Mus [...] Ash [...]lea o [...] Oxon.) were commanded Anno 1678. by King Charles 2. to [Page 333-334] be translated thence, and decently interr'd here, under a curious Altar of black and white marble, with the following Epitaph engraven on the Pedestal.
H. S. S.
Reliquiae Edwardi 5. Regis Angliae, & Richardi Ducis Eboracensis. Hos germanos fratres Turri Londinensi conclusos, injectisque culcitris suffocatos, abdite & inhoneste tumulari jussit Patruus Richardus, perfidus Regni praedo. Ossa desideratorum, diu & multum quaesita, post annos 190, &c. Scalarum in ruderibus (scalae istae ad sacellum Turris albae nuper ducebant) alte defossa, indiciis certissimis reperta 17 die Julii, Anno Dom. 1674.
Carolus secundus Rex clementissimus acerbam sortem miseratus, inter avita monumenta, Principibus infoelicissimis justa perselvit Anno Dom. 1678. Annoque Regni sui 30.
That is;
Here under lye interr'd the Remains of Edward 5. King of England, and of Richard Duke of York. Which two Brothers their Uncle Richard, who usurpt the Crown, shut up in the Tower of London, smother'd them with Pillows, and order'd them to be dishonourably and secretly buried. Whose long desired, and much sought for bones, after above an hundred and ninety years, were found by most certain tokens, deep interr'd under the rubbish of the stairs that led up into the Chapel of the white Tower, on the 17th of July in the year of our Lord 1674.
Charles the second, a most merciful Prince, having compassion upon their hard fortune, performed the funeral rites of these unhappy Princes, amongst the Tombs of their Ancestors, Anno Dom. 1678. being the 30th of his reign.
To whom add King James the first, Queen Ann, Queen of Bohemia, and others of their Children. The Lady Elizabeth Princess of Orange, King Charles the second, and several of the Children of him and of King James the second. Henry Duke of Glocester, Lodowick Duke of Richmond and Lenox, George Duke of Albemarle, William Duke of Newcastle, and George Duke of Buckingham. Lionel Earl of Middlesex, Edward Earl of Sandwich, and James Earl of Ossory. And amongst the Poets, we must not forget the famous Ben. Johnson, and the ingenious Mr. Cowley (to whom I wish I could have added Mr. Butler) who equal, if not exceed the best of their Predecessors.
[s] Near to the Church stands Westminster-hall, Westminster-hall. first founded by William Rufus about the year of Christ 1097. wherein asP. 44. Edit. W [...]s. Matthew Paris tells us, upon his return out of Normandy, Anno 1099. he Most royally kept the Feast of Whitsuntide. The length of it was 270 foot, and 74 the breadth; which when he heard some say was too great; he answer'd, That it was not big enough by one half, and was but a Bed-chamber in comparison of what he intended to make. The foundations (as we are told) were to be seen in the days of Matthew Paris, stretching themselves from the river to the common high-way; whence we may gather, 'twas intended to have pointed in length East and West, and not North and South as it now does.
Charter-house.[t] Next our Author proceeds to the Northern and Eastern Suburbs; wherein amongst others, he takes notice of the opulent house of Carthusian Monks, founded about 1370. 45 Edw. 3. by Sir Walter de Many: which after the dissolution, being bestow'd upon Sir Thomas Audley, Speaker of the House of Commons, past from him with his sole daughter Margaret by marriage to Thomas Howard Duke of Norfolk, and so by descent to Thomas Earl of Suffolk. Of him it was purchased since our Author's time, (under the name of Howard-house, otherwise call'd the late dissolved Charter-house near Smithfield in Middlesex) by Thomas Sutton of Camps-castle in the County of Cambridge, for the sum of thirteen thousand pounds. He erected it into an Hospital, by the name of the Hospital of King James, founded in Charter-house in the County of Middlesex, at the humble petition and only cost and charges of Thomas Sutton Esq endowing it with divers Manours and other Lands to the value of 4493 l. 19 s. 10 d. for the maintenance of a Master or Governour, a Preacher, Physician, Register, Receiver, &c. 80 poor Brothers or Pensioners, which are to be either Gentlemen by descent, and in poverty; Merchants decay'd by pyracy or shipwrack; or superannuated Soldiers by sea or land: and none of these to be under the age of 50 years at the time of their admission. Except Soldiers maim'd in the wars (and not in private quarrels) which in regard of their misfortune are capable ten years sooner. Beside 6 l. 6 s. 8 d. wages, they are all allow'd meat, drink, lodging, gowns, and other cloaths.
And so are 40 poor Scholars, who are only capable of admission between the years of 10 and 15, and not to continue in the School above 8 years at most. Before the expiration whereof, they are either transplanted to one of the Universities (where, since the increase of the Revenue, which now amounts to 5500 l. per Annum, there are no less than 29 always maintain'd with the allowance of 20 l. per Annum each, to be paid quarterly for 8 years time:) or they are put forth to be Apprentices, the House now giving no less than 40 l. with them. The government is in the hands of the most honourable Grandees of the State, and most reverend Prelates of the Church, beside the King and Queen; who put in both the Pensioners and Children in their courses, only the King first puts in two, the Queen one, and then the 16 Governours one, each in their respective turns, as the places become vacantS. Hern's Domus Carthusiana..
[u] In the more Eastern Suburbs (where he tells us many Roman Urns and other Antiquities were found) we can only add,Roman Antiquities. that the place he mentions was Spittle-fields. They were dugg up in those days for making of brick; and divers other Romans coins and vessels were found (as Mr. Stow tells us) belonging to their Sacrifices and Burials, beside what he mentions. Such as the Coins of Trajan and Antoninus Pius, Lamps, Lachrymatories, Patinae, and vessels of white earth with long necks and handles, which I suppose must be the Gutti used in their SacrificesSurvey, p. 177.. There were many Roman Coins also discover'd in the foundations of Aldgate, when it was rebuilt in the year 1607. which were formerly kept in the Guild-hall Ibid. p. 121. But many more of all kinds since the late fire, in the foundations of St. Paul's Church now rebuilding, and in the making of Fleet-ditch; which were carefully collected by Mr. John Coniers Citizen and Apothecary of London, and are now many of them in the possession of the ingenious Mr. Woodward, the present Professor of Physick in Gresham-College, London. Many Urns and Coins have been also met with in digging the foundations of the new buildings in Goodmans-fields, as there daily are in many other places upon the like occasions, especially in the Suburbs of the City.
[w] Southwark was, 'tis true Apr. 23. 1549. 4 Edw. 6. purchased of the King by the Lord Mayor, Commonalty, and Citizens of London, for the sum of Six hundred forty seven pounds, two shillings and a penny, and annext to their City, and erected immediately into a new Ward, call'd the Bridg-ward without, and was thenceforth to be esteemed within the government and correction of the Lord Mayors, and other Officers of London and their Deputies. The inhabitants were licensed to enjoy and use all such Laws and Privileges whatsoever within their Borough and Precincts, as the Citizens of London did within their CityStow's Survey, p 442, 443.. Which possibly might move our Author to place its history here. But it was not thereby remov'd out of Surrey, as appears by the provisions of the King's Grant, whereby care is taken that the Lord Mayor should do and execute all such things within the Borough, as other Justices might within the County of Surrey; and that he as Escheator within the Borough and Precincts should have power to direct Precepts to the Sheriff of Surrey for the time beingSee more of this in Surrey..
[x] The Hospital of Christ-Church (founded Anno 1552. by King Edward the sixth) as it stood in our Author's time, maintain'd but 600 Orphans, whereof part Boys, and part Girls, and both the children of Freemen of this City. Since (the Fund being [Page 335-336] uncertain, depending as well upon the casual charity both of living and dying persons, as upon its real Estate) the number has been augmented and diminisht in proportion to the increase and decrease of that sort of Charity. However, it seldom now maintains less than 1000 annually, nor is there reason to fear they will ever have fewer. Here having run through the several Schools, at 15 years they are put forth to a seven years Apprenticeship; except some Boys of the best parts, who are sent to the Universities, and there also maintain'd for seven years: which is the present state of King Edward's foundation.
Mathematical School.To this there has been added another of late years, stiled the New Royal Foundation of King Charles the second, consisting of 40 Boys, all wearing Badges appropriate to their Institution, to be fill'd up successively out of such of the above-mention'd Children, as have attain'd to a competency in fair writing and Latin learning. Thence-forward they are instructed in the Mathematicks and Art of Navigation till they are 16 years of age; at which time they are disposed of in a seven years Apprenticeship to the practice of Navigation. Which Institution most highly charitable in it self, and tending to the honour and safety of the Kingdom, as well as the security and advancement of our Trade, was founded the 19th of August, Anno 25 Car. 2.
Earls of MIDDLESEX.
Sir Lionel Cranfield Kt. Merchant of London, having for his great abilities been first made Master of the Requests, then of the great Wardrobe, and after of the Wards, and at last privy Counsellor; upon the 19. of July 19 Jac. 1. was advanced to the degree of a Baron of this Realm, by the title of Lord Cranfield of Cranfield in Bedfordshire, and to the office and dignity of Lord high Treasure of England: and by Letters Patents bearing date Sept. 2. 1622. 20 Jac. 1. to the Earldom of Middlesex. Who by his second wife Anne, daughter to James Bret of Howbey in the County of Leicester Esquire, had issue four sons; James, Edward, Lionel, and William; whereof James and Lionel succeeded him in the Honour; but both dying without issue, this Title descended to his eldest daughter Frances, married to Richard Earl of Dorset, and her issue; and is accordingly now enjoyed by the Right Honourable Charles Earl of Dorset and Middlesex, Lord Chamberlain of the Houshold, and Knight of the Garter.
More rare Plants growing wild in Middlesex, communicated by Mr. James Petiver.
Filicula saxatilis ramosa maritima nostras Raii Synops. & Hist. Plant. Small-branch'd Stone-fern. On many old walls in and about London, as the Savoy, Westminster, Royal Garden, &c.
Fungus spongiosus niger reticulatus, doliolis vinosis adnascens Raii synops. Mr. Doody's spung-like Mushrome. In most vaults sticking to the wine casks.
Eruca sylvestris Ger. sylv. vulgatior Park. major lutea caule aspero C. B. tenuifolia perennis fl. luteo J. B. Wild Rocket. On old walls about this City frequently, as on London-wall between Cripplegate and Bishopsgate, the Charter-house, &c. plentifully.
Viscum Ger. vulgare Park. baccis albis C. B. Quercus & aliarum arborum J. B. Misseltoe. On some trees at Clarendon house, St. James's.
Nasturtium aquaticum amarum Park. majus & amarum C. B. Nasturtium aq. fl. majore elatius Raii syn. Bitter Cresses. On the Thames-bank between Peterborough-house and Chelsey.
Conserva reticulata Raii Hist. Plant. append. 1852. & synops. 15. Mr. Doody's netted Crow-silk. In some ditches about Westminster and Hounslow-heath.
Bardana major Rosea Park. 1222. lappa Rosea C. B. prodr. 102. Rose Burdock. This variety (which Caspar Bauhine averrs to be found frequently about Leipsick) I have observed near the Thames, between Westminster and Chelsey.
Juncus caule triangulari Merr. Pin. 67. The three-corner'd Bulrush. In the Thames, between Peterborough-house and the Horse-ferry, Westminster.
Cyperus rotundus litoreus inodorus J. B. rotundus inodorus Anglicus C. B. rotundus lito [...]eos Ger. rotundus litoreus inodorus Anglicus Park. Round-rooted Bastard Cyperus.
Sagitta aquatica omnium minima Raii synops. append. 242. The least Arrow-head. Observed by that most curious Botanist Dr. Plukenet to grow with the two last.
Salix minima fragilis foliis longissimis untrinqueviridibus non serratis Raii synops. append. 238. Dr. Sherard's Green Osier. Amongst the Willows on the Thames side, between Westminster and Chelsey.
Salix folio Amygdalino utrinque aurito corticem abjiciens Raii synops. 216. Almond-leav'd Willow that casts its bark. Found with the last.
Persicaria pusilla repens Ger. Park. Small creeping Arsmart.
Trifolium pumilum supinum flosculis longis albis Phyt. Brit. Raii synops. 133. Dwarf Trefoil, with long white flowers hiding its seed under ground. See Essex.
Trifolium siliquis Ornithopodii nostras Raii synops. 136. Birds-foot Trefoil.
Chamaemelum nobile seu odoratius C. B. Sweet-scented creeping Camomile. These four last Plants I have often found in Tuttle-fields, Westminster.
Chamaemelum fl. nudo Raii synops. 57. Naked flower'd Camomile. This also is said to be found with the other.
Gramen' Dactylon latiore folio C. B. Ischaemon sylv. latiore folio Park. Cocks-foot grass.
Gramen Paniceum spicâ asperâ C.B. Rough-ear'd Panick grass. Both these have been found upon the Thames-bank about the Neat-houses; as also the
Bardana seu Lappa májor capitulis minus tomentosis Raii synops. 245. which Mr. Doody has very well observed to be far different from that in gardens, for which it has been taken.
Conyza annua, acris, alba, Linariae foliis. Boccon. rarior. plant. desc. Boccones white flower'd biting Fleabane. In many barren places about London.
Argemone laciniato folio, capitulo hispido longiore. Raii syn. 122. Long rough headed bastard Poppey.
Argemone laciniato folio capitulo hispido rotundiore Raii syn. 122. Round rough-headed bastard Poppey.
Argemone capitulo longiore. glabra Morison. Smooth headed bastard Poppey. All these Argemones, are found about Chelsey in Corn-fields and elsewhere.
Erysimum latifolium Neapolitanum Park. Smoother broad-leav'd hedge mustard. After the great fire in London, in the years 1667. and 1668. it came up abundantly among the rubbish in the ruins, and grows now plentifully on the Lord Cheny's wall at Chelsey, and in several other places near London.
Hieracium Castorei odore Monspeliensium Raii syn. 43. Rough-hawkweed smelling like Castor. This Mr. Doody (Master of the Company of Apothecaries Physick Garden) informs me he hath found about Chelsey.
Gramen Arundinaceum aquaticum paniculâ Avenaceâ Raii syn. Mr. Doody's Water-reed grass with an oat-like panicle. First observed by him on the banks of the river Thames between London and Chelsey.
Muscus trichoides minus, foliis ad caulem convolutis capitulis subrotundis reflexis Raii syn. append. 244. Mr. Doody's Goldilocks, with leaves growing like a bulbous root. On some walls about Chelsey, and in several gardens about London.
Dipsacus minor seu virga pastoris Ger. sylvestris capitulo minore, vel virga pastoris minor C. B. virga pastoris Park. pastoris vulg. J. B. Small wild Teasel or Shepherds Rod.
Gramen paniceum spica divisa C. B. panicum vulgare Ger. sylvestre herbariorum Park. Panick grass with a divided spike.
Gramen avenaceum glabrum paniculâ è spicis raris strigosis compositâ, aristis tenuissimis Raii syn. Mr. Doody's Oat-grass with hairy awns. I have observed these three last about the Moat which encompasses the seat of the Reverend the Bishop of London at Fulham.
Nymphea lutea Ger. J. B. major lutea C. B. Park. The greater Water-lily with a yellow flower. In the aforesaid moat near the garden-gate.
Cardamine impatiens, vulgo Sium minus impatiens Gen. minimum Noli me tangere dictum, sive impatiens Nasturtii sylvestris folio Park. Impatient Ladies-smeck. On the moat sides near the last.
Acorus verus sive Calamus officinarum Park. The sweet smelling Flag or Calamus. This Mr. Doody hath observed about the said moat.
Ranunculus hirsutus annuus flore minimo Raii syn. 86. Field Crowfoot with a very small flower.
Turritis Ger. vulgatior J. B. Park. Brassica sylvestris foliis integris & hispidis C. B. Tower Mustard. This, with the foregoing Plant, Mr. Doody hath observed in a lane near Thistleworth.
Gramen Avenaceum glabrum panniculà purpuro-argenteâ splendente Raii Hist. Plant. 1909. synops. 192. Mr. Doody's Oat-grass with purplish shining pannicles. In the pastures about the Earl of Cardigan's at Twittenham.
Armeriae species flore summo caule singulari Raii syn. 242. The single flow'ring Pink. In the Park at Hampton-Court.
Millefolium aquaticum pennatum spicatum C. B. Park. pennat. aq. J. B. Feathered water Milfoil. This I have found in the Canal at Hampton-Court, as also in a slow running rivulet near Poplar.
Millegrana minima Ger. fig. 567. minima seu Herniaria minor Park. Polygonum minimum seu millegrana minima C. B. The least Rupture-wort or Allseed. On Hounslow-heath.
Muscus palustris gracilis summo ramosus. parvus stellaris C. B. & Phytographia L. Plukenetii Tab. 47. Fig. 6. Small upright Bog-moss, with starry tops. In the Bogs on Hounslow heath.
Sium alterum Olusatri facie Ger. Fig. 256. majus alterum angustifolium Park. Fig. 1241. Erucae folio C. B. Cicuta aquatica Gesneri. J. B. Long-leav'd water Hemlock. In a shallow pool of water on Hounslow-heath by the road side, near the town, and in some pools of water at Thistleworth.
Sium minimum Raii hist Plant. 444. syn. 67. The least water Parsnep. In several ponds on Hounslow-heath.
Potamogiton aquis immersum, folio pellucido lato, oblongo acuto Raii syn. an Pot. foliis angustis splendentibus C. B? longis acutis foliis Ger.? fontalis lucens major J. B? Long-leav'd great Pondweed with pellucid leaves. In many places in the Thames between Fulham and Hampton-Court.
Carduus Mariae hirsutus non maculatus Phyt. Brit. Leucographus hirsutus capitulo minore Morison. Ladies Thistle without spots. On the bank of the New-River between the two roads from London to Islington-
Potamogiton perfoliatum Raii syn. 34. foliis latis splendentibus C. B. Pot. 3. Dodonei Ger. Perfoliate Pondweed.
Potamogiton pusillum, gramineo folio, caule tereti Raii hist. Plant. 190. syn. 35. Small grass leav'd Pondweed. This, with the last, grows plentifully in the New-river head.
Potamogiton affinis graminifolia aquatica Raii hist. Plant. 190. & syn. Water grass with small crooked cods. I found this plentifully in a small pond on the east side of Islington.
Gramen panniculatum aquaticum minus Raii synops. 186. Miliaceum fluitans suavis saporis D. Merret Pin. caninum supinum panniculatum dulce C.B. J.B. The lesser water-grass with fine pannicles. Or rather (as Mr. Doody stiles it) Liquorice-grass, which tast it exactly resembles. On the New-river bank behind Islington, and in many muddy ponds about London plentifully.
Adiantum album Tab. Ruta muraria C. B. J. B. Gen. Muraria, seu salvia Vitae Park. Fig. 1050. White Maidenhair, Wall-Rue, or Tentwort. On an old stone Conduit between Islington and Jack-Straw's Castle.
Radix cava minima viridi flore Ger. Ranunculus nemorosus Moschatella dictus Park. Tuberous Moscatell.
Vinca pervinca Officinarum minor Ger. vulgaris Park. clematis Dapnoides minor J. B. C. B. Small Periwincle. This, and the last, grow on the Mote side as you enter into Jack-Straw's Castle.
Xyris Ger. seu spatula faetida Park. Xyris 1. seu Gladiolus faetidus C. B. Stinking Gladdon or Gladwyn. On Jack-Straw's Castle, and in a hedge near it.
Cardamine impatiens altera hirsutior Raii syn. 114. Sysymbrium Cardamine hirsutum minus fl. albo J. B. The lesser hairy impatient Cuckow flower or Ladies-smock. On the New-river banks between Canberry-house and Newington, in many places.
Tormentilla reptans alata foliis profundius serratis D. Plot. Hist. nat. Oxon. Creeping Tormentil with deeply indented leaves. In a ditch between the Boarded-river and Islington road.
Gramen Cyperoides spica pendula breviore C. B. Cyperus seu Pseudo-Cyperus spica brevi pendula Park. Pseudo-Cyperus Ger. Bastard Cyperus with short pendulous spikes. In the same place with the last.
Stellaria pusilla palustris repens tetraspermos. Lenticula aq. bifolia Neapolitana Park. Fig. 1293. Raii hist. Plant. 1852. Small creeping Marsh-Starwort. This I found in some moist writts in a wood near the Boarded-river. But the first discovery of it to be a native of England, we owe to that ingenious Physician and expert Botanist Dr. Hans Sloan, who found it in a Bog on Putney-Heath.
Alnus nigra baccisera J. B. C. B. nigra sive Frangula Ger. Frangula seu Alnus nigra baccifera Park. The black-berry bearing Alder. This, with the following, grow plentifully in a wood against the Boarded river.
Gramen arundinaceum panicula spadicea molli majus C. B. Gramen tomentosum arundinaceum Ger. Reed-grass with a pappose panicle.
Gramen Cyperoides polystachion slavicans, spicis brevibus, propè summitatem caulis Raii syn. 195. Mr. Rays yellowish Cyperus-grass with short spikes.
Gramen Cyperoides sylvarum tenuius spicatum Park. Slender-ear'd wood Cyperus grass.
Gramen Cyperoides spica è pluribus spicis brevibus mollibus composita Raii syn. Mr. Ray's round cluster-headed Cyperus grass.
Sambucus aquatilis seu palustris Ger. aq. fl. simplicis C. B. Water Elder. In the same wood, but sparingly.
Myosurus J. B. cauda muris Ger. Holosteo affinis cauda muris C. B. Mouse-tail. This (with the next) I found in a sloughy lane near the Divel's-house going to Hornsey.
Plantaginella palustris C. B. Plantago aquatica minima Park. Chickweed, with Water-plantain leaves.
Muscus muralis platyphyllos Raii syn. 237. Broad leav'd moss. This Mr. Bobart, the Botanick Professor of Oxford, shewed me on many walls about that City, the which I have this year found on a brick wall on the right hand assoon as you enter into Hornsey town from London.
Bardana minor Ger. lappa minor, Xanthium Dioscoridis C. B. The lesser Burdock. This I observed in the road side near the Bridge at Newington.
Cynoglossum minus folio virenti Ger. semper-virens C. B. Park. The lesser green-leav'd Hounds tongue. In a hedge facing the round on Stamford-hill between Newington and Tottenham.
Cruciata Ger. vulgaris Park. hirsuta C. B. Gallium latifolium Cruciata quibusdam fl. luteo J. B. Crosswort or Mugweed. In Hampsted Churchyard.
Alsine tetrapetalos Caryophylloides, quibusdam Holosteum minimum Raii syn. 145. The least Stichwort. On Hampstead heath plentifully.
Filix florida seu Osmunda Regalis Ger. Osmund Royal or flowering Fern. Towards the north side of the heath, and in a Ditch near it the
Lichen petreus cauliculo calceato C. B. Small Liverwort with crumpled leaves. With the
Gramen Cyperoides spicis brevibus congestis folio molli Raii Hist. 1910. Mr. Doody's short-headed Cyperus grass. And
Ros solis folio rotundo J. B. C. B. Ger. Park. Round leav'd Ros-solis or Sun-dew. In the Bogs.
Muscus trichodes medius capitulis sphaericis Raii in append. syn. 243. Mr. Doody's Goldilocks with round heads.
Muscus trichoides foliis capillaceis capitulis minoribus Raii syn. 243. Mr. Doody's fine-leav'd Goldilocks with small heads.
Muscus trichoides minor capitulis longissimis Raii syn. 243. Mr. Doody's small Goldilocks with very long and slender heads. These three last, that most indefatigable Botanist first discovered on a ditch-bank leading from Mother Huffs towards Hampsted.
Muscus trichoides minor capitulis perexiguis per Microscopium Botro referens. Mr. Dares cluster-headed Goldilocks. This is a singular Moss, its rough heads distinguising it from any yet discover'd. I found it in the lane going from Mother Huffs to Highgate, but it was first discovered [Page] by Mr. Dare in a lane beyond Putney-heath. I have also lately receiv'd it from my ingenious friend Mr. T. Pool a Mercer at Nottingham, who gathered it near that town.
Filix mas non ramosa pinnulis latis auriculatis spinosis Ger. 1130. Prickly auriculate male Fern. This, with the following, are found in the woods about Highgate and Hampsted.
Filix mas non ramosa pinnulis angustis raris profundè dentatis Ger. 1130. Male Fern with thin-set deeply indented leaves.
Filix mas ramosa pinnulis dentatis Ger. 1129. Great branch'd Fern with indented leaves.
Alsine longifolia uliginosis proveniens locis J. B. Long-leav'd water Chickweed.
Alsine Plantaginis folio J. B. Plantain-leav'd Chickweed.
Bifolium sylvestre vulgare Park. Common Twayblade.
Cyperus gramineus J. B. gramineus Miliaceus Ger. Fig. 30. Millet Cyperus grass.
Equisetum omnium minimum tenuifolium Park. Fig. 1201. sylvaticum Ger. 1114. Wood Horsetail. These five last are found in the moistest places in the abovesaid woods; the following in the dryer parts.
Astragalus sylvaticus Ger. Wood-pease.
Androsemum vulgare Park. Tutsan or park-leaves.
Anagallis lutea Ger. Yellow Pimpernel.
Gramen Avenaceum rariore gluma spicatum Park. Fig. 1151. Wood Oat-grass.
Gramen Cyperoides spica pendula longiore Park. Cyperus grass with long pendulous heads.
Gramen Cyp. spicatum minimum spica divulsa aculeata Raii synops. Tall prickly-headed spiked Cyperus-grass.
Gramen nemorosum hirsutum latifol. maxim. Raii synops. Great broad-leav'd hairy Wood-grass.
Hieracium fruticosum latifolium hi [...]sutum C. B. Park. Bushy Hawkweed with broad rough leaves.
Hieracium fruticosum angustifolium majus C. B. Park. Narrow-leav'd bushy Hawkweed.
Juncellus omnium minimus, Chamaeschoenus Ad. Lob. The least Rush.
Lilium convallium Ger. fl. albo Park. Lily of the Valley, or May-Lily.
Sorbus sylvestris seu Fraxinus bubula Ger. The Quicken tree.
Sorbus torminalis Ger. The common wild Service or Sorb.
Vaccinia nigra Ger. Black Whorts, Whortle-berries, or Bilberries.
Aparine minima Raii synops. Mr. Sherard's least Clivers. First discovered by that compleat Botanist on a wall at Hackney.
Carduus stellatus Ger. Star-Thistle. In some barren fields near White-chapel.
Carum seu Careum Ger. Caraways. This I have more than once found about London.
Chondrilla viscosa humilis C. B. Ger. Park. The least wild Lettice. In a lane against Pancras-Church near London.
Eruca aquatica Ger. Park. Water Rocket. In a ditch in the road between White-chapel and Mile-end.
Lapathum pulchrum Bononiense sinuatum J. B. Fiddle Dock. In Bunhill and Morefields plentifully.
Mercurialis mas & foemina Ger. French Mercury. This, though a scarce Plant wild in England, yet grows spontaneously in most Gardens in and about London.
Ulmus folio latissimo scabro Ger. latiore folio Park. The Wych-hasel or broad-leav'd Elm. I have seen large trees of this at Hoxton near London.
ESSEX.
THE other part of the Trinobantes, call'd from the Eastern situation, and the Saxons who possest it, East-Seaxa, and East-Sex-scirea, by the Normans Exssesa, commonly Essex, is a Country of a great breadth, very fruitful, abounding in Saffron; very well stored with wood, and exceeding rich. On the one side the sea, on the other the rivers well stock'd with fish, do, as it were, crown the County, and plentifully serve it with their commodities. To the North the river Stour divides it from Suffolk, on the East the sea comes up, on the south the river Thames (now encreas'd to a considerable bigness) separates it from Kent; as on the West the little river Ley from Middlesex; and the Stort or lesser Stour (which runs into the Ley) from Hartfordshire. In describing this County, I shall use my former method, and first observe what is most worth our notice near the Ley and the Thames, and then proceed to those parts that lye inward, and those that border on the sea [a].
Near the Ley, in Saxon Lygean, spreads out a Chase of vast extent, full of game, the largest and fattest deer in the Kingdom; called heretofore, by way of eminence, the Forest of Essex [b], now Waltham-Forest, Waltham-Forest. from the town Waltham, in Saxon Wealdham, i.e. a dwelling in the woods. This town is seated on the Ley, where the stream being divided, encloseth several little Islands; and is of no ancient original. For in the latter times of the Saxons, one Tovius, a man of great wealth and authority, andStallerus, i.e. Vexillifer. Standard-bearer to the King (as we read in the private records of the place,) by reason of the abundance of deer, made this place, and guarded it with 66 men. After his death, his son Athelstan soon squander'd away the estate: and Edward the Confessor bestow'd this village on Harold son to Earl Godwin;Waltham Abbey. who built here a Monastery, where he himself was interr'd. For having possess'd himself of the crown, thro' his own ambition, and the inadvertency of other men; he rais'd this structure in honour of the Holy Cross1. Here he solemnly made his vows for success against the Normans; and being presently after slain by them in battel, his mother having obtain'd his body of the enemy by the most submissive intreaties, deposited it in the same place. It is now honour'd with the title of a Baron in2 the Lord Edward Deny, Baron D [...] call'd to Parliament by K. James. Above this a rising hill gives us a delightful prospect of Copthall, Copth [...]ll. formerly the seat of the Fitz-Auchers, now of Sir Thomas Heneage Kt, who hath brought it to this perfection. On this river, without doubt, was seated the old Durolitum of Antoninus; but 'tis beyond my abilities to determine the exact place: for (to speak once for all) the ancient places of this County are so strangely obscure and puzling, that I, who in other parts have made some discoveries, must here freely own my self in the dark. But were I to guess in this matter, the place I should pitch upon is Leiton, which still retains the ancient appellation, Durolitum Durolit [...] signifying in British the water of Ley [c]. 'Tis at present a little scattering village some v. miles from London, for which number, thro' the negligence of transcribers, xv. hath crept into the Itinerary. That there was here formerly a passage over the river, a place in the neighbourhood call'd Ouldford or the Old-ford, plainly argues. Here, when Maud wife to Hen. 1. had very narrowly escap'd drowning, she took care to have a bridge built somewhat lower on the river at Stratford. Where, being divided into 3 streams, it washeth the green meadows, and makes them look most delicately. Hereabouts we meet with the ruins of a little monastery built by William Montfichet a great Norman Lord, about the year 1140. After this the Ley uniting it's streams, runs with a gentle current into the Thames; whence this place is call'd Ley-mouth.
Near the Thames (grown now very considerable [Page]
[Page] [Page 341-342] by the large additions it hath lately receiv'd) the most remarkable places are these. Berking, Berking. call'd by Bede Berecing, appointed for the reception of holy Virgins by Erkenwald Bishop of London. Where the Thames receives a little rivulet call'd Roding, Roding riv. which gives name to several villages hereabouts; as, Heigh-Roding, Eithorp-Roding, Leaden-Roding, &c. Two of which places were given to the Church of Ely by Leofwin a Nobleman,Book of Ely. to atone for the murther of his mother, which he had before barbarously committed.Chipping-Angre. Next to this is Angre, where, upon a very high hill, are the marks of a Castle built by Richard Lucy Lord chief Justice of England under Hen. 2. A co-heiress of which family King John married to Richard de Rivers, Liber Inq. De Ripartis who lived at Stanford-Rivers hard by3.
From the mouth of the Roding (thro' a low country, laid often in many places under ground,Marshes. whose unwholsome vapours very much impair the health of the adjacent inhabitants) the Thames keeps on it's course to Tilbury. Near which, there are several spacious Caverns in a chalky cliff built very artificially with stone, to the height of 10 fathoms;Holes cut out. being somewhat straight at the top. A person that had been down to view them, gave me a description of them much like this.
Of these I have nothing more to say, than what I have mention'd elsewhere. [...] Kent, p. [...]. T [...]b [...]ry. But this Tilbury, which Bede calls Tilaburg, consisting at present only of a few cottages by the river side, was formerly a Bishop's See, presided by Ceada, when about the year 630. he converted the East-Saxons to the Christian Faith. Afterwards, passing by places here and there lying low, but generally unhealthy, the river opens it self, and divides the Island Convennos Convennos I [...]l. (which is the Counos mention'd by Ptolemy) from the Continent. This place hath not yet quite lost it's name, but is still call'd Canvey. Canvey. It runs along the Confines of Essex for 5 miles together, from Leegh to Hole-haven; some part of it belonging to the Church of Westminster. But the ground is so extreme low, that 'tis very often all drowned, except a few of the highest hillocks, which in such a case serve for a retreat to the sheep. Of these there are commonly fed four thousand in this Island, the meat of which is of a very excellent taste. I have observed young men with little stools under them milking them, as women in other places, and making cheese of Ewe's milk in the little dairy-houses or huts built for that purpose, which they call Wiches.
Over against this Island are seated, Beamfleet, B [...]amfleet. fortified with a Castle, and large and deep ditches (saith Florilegus) by Hastingus or Hasteny the Dane; which were all forced by King Alfred. Then Hadleigh, formerly the castle of Hubert de Burgh, afterwards of Thomas de Woodstock, now a heap of ruins. And lastly, Leegh, a pr [...]tty little town well stock'd with lusty sea-men. Near this stands Pritlewell, in which one Swain de Essex heretofore built a Cell for Monks. Here too the land juts out into a nook call'd Black-tayl-point, and Shoberry-Nesse, from Shobery, [...]o [...]ery. a little village upon it, fo [...]merly the city Sceobirig. For we read in the old Saxon Annals, [...]. ‘that the Danes being chased from Beamfleot▪ repaired to a city of the East-Saxons call'd in their language Sceobirig, and there secur'd themselves with fortifications.’ Here, being forsaken of it's banks on both sides, the Thames is constrain'd to empty it self into the Ocean. Whence the place is call'd by Ptolemy Tamesae, and in some copies corruptly Jamesae aestuarium, by us the Thames-mouth.
Farther into the main land lies Rochford, Rochford. giving name to this Hundred, now the Estate of the Lords Rich. It was formerly possess'd by a very ancient family of the same name, whose estate fell at last to Butler Earl of Ormond and Wiltshire, and from him to4 Thomas Bollen created by Hen. 8. first Visc. Rochford, and afterwards E. of Wiltshire; from whom the excellent Q Elizabeth, and the Barons Hunsdon, are descended5.
On the Thames-side toward the East, at farther distance from the shore, the places best worth our notice are those that follow in their order. And first Havering, Havering. an ancient retiring place of the Kings, called so from a ring given there by a stranger to Edward the Confessor, as a present from St. John. Horn-Church, called formerly Horn-Monastery: a pair of huge leaden horns are now fasten'd to the east-side of the Church. Rumford, Rumford. famous for the Hog market, and a building adjoyning called Giddy-Hall, which belong'd to6 Thomas Coke sometime Lord Mayor of London;See the Annals 1467. whose great riches expos'd him to extraordinary dangers. For being in the worst of times, tho' innocent, accus'd of High treason; altho' thro' the integrity of Judge Markham he was acquitted, yet had he a severe fine imposed on him, to the value of very near his whole estate. Brentwood 7,Brentwood. and Engerston formerly Engheaston, noted only for their Inns and Markets.
Here I am at a stand, and in doubt whether I had best take this opportunity to ease my self of a conjecture which I have sometime since conceiv'd. Since the City Caesaromagus was certainly seated in these parts, and that, no doubt,Caesaromagus, call'd in the Itinerary-table Bar [...]magus. a place of eminent note in the time of the Romans, as the very name imports, signifying as much as the City of Caesar, in the same [Page 343-344] manner as Drusomagus the city of Drusus. (Which too seems probably to have been built in honour of August [...]us. For Suetonius informs us, that all the Princes who were the friends and allies of that Emperour, built cities in his honour; in the names of which, the word Caesar compos'd a part.) What then if I should fix Caesaromagus near this Brentwood? Could the reader forbear to smile at my fancy? Indeed my opinion can receive very little strength from the distances in the Itinerary, since the numbers are there so strangely corrupted. Yet those from Colonia and Canonium agree very well to this place. Nor can I draw an argument from the situation of it on a Roman way; since we can find no footsteps of any such in this County. Nor do we meet with the least shadow of the word Caesaromagus, unless a very small affinity in the name of the Hundred formerly called Ceasford, now Cheafford Hundred. And indeed, as the names of some ancient places are very little alter'd, others quite changed; there are others so mangled, that only one syllable or two of the former denomination remains. Thus Caesar-augusta in Spain is now corrupted into Sarogosa; Caesaromagus in Gaul hath entirely lost it's old name, and assum'd that of Beauvois; and Caesarea in Normandy hath scarce one entire syllable left it in the present name Cherburg. But why do I insist on these trifles? If Caesaromagus be not in this neighbourhood, let others seek for it elsewhere. For my part, the discovery is far beyond my reach, tho' I have used all the assistance that my eyes and ears could afford me [d].
Hard by I saw South-Okindon, South Okindon. heretofore the seat of the Bruins, Bruin. a family of very great repute in these parts. From which, by two co-heiresses that were several times married, Charles Brandon Duke of Suffolk, the Tirels, Berniers, Harlestons, Heveninghams and others, are descended. The male issue of this family are still remaining in Hamshire. And Thorndon, Thorndon. where Sir John Petre Kt.8, now Baron PetreBaron Petre. of Writtle, hath built a fair seat. It was formerly the habitation of the noble family of the Fitz-Lewis's; the last of which, if we believe common report, upon the casual burning of the house at the solemnity of his wedding, was miserably consum'd in the flames. Then Burghsted, by contraction Bursted, i.e. the place of a Burgh, a denomination given to many places by our ancestors. Here I once thought was the Caesaromagus. But whatever it were formerly, at present 'tis only a small village inhabited by husband-men; near Billiricay, a pretty large market-town. Hard by is Ashdown, Ashdown. formerly Assandun, i.e. as Marian interprets it, The Mount of Asses; famous for a desperate battel in which Edmund Ironside at first put the Danes to the rout, but afterwards, thro' treachery, lost the day, together with a great number of his Nobility. In memory of which, we read that Canutus the Dane built here a Church: when repenting of all the blood he had occasion'd to be spilt, he erected some kind of religious structure wherever he had engaged in fight.
Not far from hence lies Raleigh, a pretty little town: 'tis call'd in Domesday-book Raganeia, which makes mention of a Castle built here by one Sweno. Where too we read,Arpenn [...]s. Wine. There is one park, six Arpennies of vineyards, which if it takes well, yields twenty Modii of wine: which I here take notice of, both for the French word Arpennis, and for the wine made in this Island.Ralph de Diceto. This Sweno was a very eminent man for name and honour, the son of Robert Fitz-Wimaerc,Family of Essex. and father of Robert de Essex, to whom was born9 Henry de Essex,b Standard-bearer to the King by right of inheritance: who in a battel against the Welsh threw away his courage and standard together; and being accus'd of High treason,c overcome in single combat, and thrown into prison, his vast estate made a considerable addition to King Henry the 2's Exchequer. His Barony remain'd a long time in the Crown, till10 Hubert de Burgh obtain'd a grant of it from King John.
Farther to the North, the shores being something dinted in, give free entrance to the sea in two places; one of which Bays the inhabitants call Crouch, and the other Blackwater, formerly Pant. In Crouch there lye four pretty green Islands, but the water almost continually overflowing them, makes 'em for the most part fenny and moorish.
The most considerable are Wallot; and Foulness, Foulness. that is, the Promontory of Birds, which hath a Church, that at low tide may be come at on horse back. Between these Bays, lies Dengy-hundred, Dengy-Hundred. formerly Dauncing; the grass here is excellent good, and well stock'd with Cattel; but the air none of the healthiest. The only trade almost that's drove here, consists in Cheeses;Essex-cheese. and men milk the ewes, like women in other places. Where are made those Cheeses of an extraordinary bigness, which are used as well in foreign parts as in England, to satisfie the coarse stomachs of husbandmen and labourers. Dengy, the chief town, is thought to have receiv'd it's name from the Danes, which it gives to the whole Hundred. Nigh this stands Tillingham. given by Ethelbert, the first Christian King of the Saxons, to the Monastery of St. Paul in London. Up higher toward the Northern shore, stood once a flourishing city, called by our ancestors Ithancester. For thus Ralph Niger tells us out of Bede, Ceada the Bishop baptized the East-Saxons near Maldon in the city of Ithancester, which stood upon the bank of the riv [...]r Pant that runs near Maldon in the Province of Dengy; but that city hath since been quite swallow'd up in the river Pant. I can't exactly point out the place; but that the river Froshwell was heretofore called Pant, I am pretty confident, since one of it's springs still keeps the name of Pant's-Well, and since the Monks of Coggeshall speaking of it use the same appellation. Some think this Ithancester Ithance [...]ter. to have been seated in the utmost point of Dengy Hundred, where stands at present St. Peter's on the Wall. For on this shore the Country-people are hardly put to't, with great banks and walls of mud, to keep the sea out of their fields. I am enclin'd to believe this Ithancester was the same as Othona, Othona. the Station of the Band of the Fortenses, with their Provost, in the declension of the Roman Empire; placed here under the Count of the Saxon shore to secure the Coast against the Pirating Saxons. For Othona might very easily pass into Ithana; and the situation in a creek at the mouth of several rivers, was very convenient for such a design11. Here we may add, that the Confessor granted the Custody of this Hundred to Ralph The N [...]rmans cal [...] him Pe [...] rell. Peperking by a short Charter; which I am willing to set down, that we, who now rake into all the niceties of the Law, may see the innocent freedom and plainness of that age. It stands thus in the Rolls of the Exchequer; but by often transcribing, some words are made smoother than they were in the Original.
Seals first [...] am [...]g the [...]g [...]th.This was the honest, undesigning simplicity of that age; which thought a few lines and a few golden crosses sufficient assurances. For before the coming in of the Normans (as we read in Ingulphus) Indentures were made firm by golden crosses and such other marks; but the Normans used to strengthen their writings with the impression in wax of the particular seals of the parties concern'd, and of three or four witnesses. But before many Tenures were granted by the bare word, without writing or paper, only with the sword of the Lord, or his helmet; with a horn or a cup; and several others with a spur, a curry-comb, a bow, and sometimes with an arrow.
Into Blackwater-bay (which, as I said before, bounds the north part of this Hundred, and is famous for abundance of excellent Oysters, which we call Wallfleot-oysters) flow two rivers that wash the greatest part of the County, Chelmer and Froshwell. Chelmer flowing from those parts that lye farther in, and are thick cloath'd with woods, passeth through Thaxsted, Thax [...]ted. a little Market-town, seated very pleasantly on a hill: and Tiltey, Tiltey. where Maurice Fitz-Gilbert founded a small Monastery; to Estannes by the tower, now Eston; which was the seat of the Lords of Lovain, L [...]ds of L [...]in. descended from Godfrey brother to Henry the sixth Duke of Brabant; who being sent hither to take care of the Honour of Eya, were accounted Barons to the sixth generation. But in the time of Edw. 3. for want of issue male, the estate and honour passed by marriage to William Bourgchter, whose Posterity were for a short time Earls of Essex.
Then to Dunmow, anciently Dunmawg, and in the Rate-book of England Dunmaw, a town of a very delightful situation, on the top of a moderately steep hill; where one Juga founded a Monastery in the year 1111. But William Bainard (as we read in the private History of that Monastery) of whom Juga held the village of little Dunmow, was for felony depriv'd of his Barony, and King Henry 1. gave it to Robert son of Richard Fitz-Gislbert Earl of Clare, and to his heirs, with the honour of Bainard-castle in London; which Robert was then Sewer to King Henry. These are the Author's own words. Nor do I think it just for me to alter them, though they contain a manifest [...] or anticipation of time, a crime to be met withal in the best historians. Inasmuch as that family was not yet honour'd with the dignity of Earls of Clare [e].
Now let us retire a little farther back from the river on both sides. On the one, at a little distance, stands Plaisy, so call'd in French from pleasing. The former name was Estre. This was the seat of the Constables of England in the latter end of the Saxons; and afterwards too, as the Ely-book informs us12. To the s [...]me place two very powerful Nobles (when they could not keep themselves between the two extreams of base flattery and down-right obstinacy to their Prince) do owe their death; Thomas de Woodstock Duke of Glocester, and Earl of Essex13; and John Holland Earl of Huntingdon, brother by the Mother's side to King Richard 2. and once Duke of Exeter, though he was afterwards depriv'd of that honour. The former, for his rash contumacy was hurried from hence to Calais and strangled: the other was beheaded in this very place for rebeilion by command of Henry 4. So that he seems, as it were, to have satisfied Woodstock's ghost, of whose fall he was accounted the main procurer. Hence the Chelmer, not far from Leez, runs by a little Monastery, built by the Gernons, at present the seat of the Lords Rich, who owe their honour to Richard Rich, B [...]ons [...]ch. a man of great prudence, and Chancellour of England under Edward the sixth.Hatf [...]ld-Peverel. al. Peperking. A little lower is seated Hatfield-Peverel, call'd so from the owner of it Ranulph Peverel, who had to wife one of the most celebrated beauties of the age, daughter to Ingelric a noble Saxon.The Book of St. Martins in London. She founded here a College now ruin'd, and lyes in-tomb'dIn fenestrâ. in the window of the Church, whereof a little still remains. By her he had William Peverel Governour of Dover-castle, and14 Pain Peverel L of Brun in Cambridgeshire. The same woman bore to William the Conquerour, whose Concubine she was, William Peverel L. of Nottingham. But to return to the Chelmer. Next it visits Chelmerford, vulgarly Chensford, Chensford. which by the distance from Camalodunum, should be the old Canonium Canonium. [f]. This is a pretty large town, seated almost in the middle of the County, between two rivers which here joyn their friendly streams; Chelmer from the east, and another from the south; of which, if (as some will have it) the name be Can, we may safely enough conclude this place to have been Canonium.
It was famous in the memory of our fathers for a little Monastery built by Malcolm King of Scotland. At present 'tis remarkable only for the Assizes which are here kept. This place began to recover some repute, when Maurice Bishop of London, (to whom it belong'd) in the time of Henry 1. built here a bridge, and brought the great road through this town. Before, it lay through Writtle, Writle, formerly Estre. famous for the largeness of the parish, which King Henry the third gave to Robert Bruce Lord of Anandale in Scotland, (who had married one of the daughters and heirs of John 15, the last Earl of Chester,) because he was unwilling the County of Chester should be possessed only by a couple of women. But the posterity of Bruce forsaking their Allegiance, Edward the second granted this place to Humfrey Bohun Earl of Hereford and Essex. Of late, when King James, at his first coming to the Crown, advanced several deserving persons to the honourable degree of Barons; among others he created John Petre, a very eminent Knight, Baron Petre of Writtle; whose father16 William Petre, a man of extraordinary prudence and learning, was not so famous for the great offices he had bore in the Kingdom (having been of the Privy Council to Henry the eighth, Edward the sixth, Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth, and often Embassador to foreign States,) as for his liberal education, and encouragement to learning at Oxford, and for the relief of the poor atd Engerston 17, near this place.
Froshwell, call'd more truly Pant, and afterwards Blackwater, rising out of a little spring near Radwinter (which belong'd to the Lords Cobham,) after it hath run a great way and met with nothing considerable (excepte Bocking, a very rich Parsonage; Cogshal, built by King Stephen for Cluniack Monks889; and Whittam built by Edward the elder, in the year 914. which is said to have been the Honour of Eustace Earl of Bologn:) meets with the Chelmer, which coming down with its whole stream from a pretty high hill not far from Danbury, that was long the habitation of the noble family of the Darcies; passeth by Woodham-Walters, Woodham-Walters. the ancient seat of the Lords Fitz-Walters, as eminent for the nobility as the antiquity of their family;Barons Fitz-Walters. being descended from Robert, younger son to Richard Fitz-Gislbert Earl. And in the last age grafted by marriage into the family of the Ratcliffs; who being advanced to the dignity of Earls of Sussex, have now a noble seat not far from hence, call'd New-hall. New-hall. This belong'd formerly to the Butlers Earls of Ormond, then to19 Thomas Bollen E. of Wiltshire, of whom King Henry 8 procur'd it by exchange;Leland in Cygnea-Cantio. and having been at a great deal of charge to enlarge it, gave it the new name of Beau-lieu; though this never obtain'd among the common people.
Now the Chelmer (with the confluence of the other waters, being divided by a river-Island, and losing its old name for that of Blackwater or Pant) salutes the old Colony of the Romans, Camalodunum, C [...]malodu [...]m. which has made this shore famous; call'd by Ptolemy Camudolanum, by Antoninus Camulodunum and Camoludunum: but that the true name is Camalodunum we have the authority of Pliny, Dio, and of an ancient marble, to evince. In the search of this City, how strangely have some persons lost themselves! though the very name points it out, and discovers it plainly to them, be they never so blind. Many have sought for it in the west of England, as that notable man who thought he carry'd the Sun of Antiquities about with him; others in Scotland; others have, with Leland, affirm'd Colchester to be the place; when all this while the name is very little alter'd, and instead of Camalodunum, 'tis call'd at present Maldon, Maldon. in Saxon Maledune and Mealdune, the greatest part of the word still remaining whole and entire. Nor are the plain reliques of the name the only argument for this assertion; but the distance too from the Mona of Pliny, and the very situation in an ancient Itinerary-table, are as plain proofs as any in the world. I scarce dare be so bold as conjecture that this place was so call'd from the God Camulus; The G [...]d Camu [...]us. yet is there some grounds for such a fancy from Mars's being worship'd under this name, and from an old stone at Rome in the house of the Collotians; and from altars that have been found with this inscription, CAMVLO DEO SANCTO ET FORTISSIMO. And upon an old Coin of Cunobeline, whose chief seat this was, as I have before observ'd; I have seen a figure with a helmet and a spear, which might probably be design'd for that of Mars, with the Letters CAMV. But because at present that piece is not in my hands, I shall present you here with some others of the same Cunobeline, which seem to relate to this Camalodunm.
See in the British Coins.
He govern'd the Eastern part of the Island in the reign of Tiberius, and is suppos'd to have had 3 sons, Admimus, Togodumnus, and Catacratus. Admimus being expell'd the kingdom by his father, and receiv'd by C. Caligula, accompanied him into Batavia on that ridiculous expedition to put a terrour upon Britain. As for Togodumnus, Aulus Plautius overcame and kill'd him in a fair battel; and the same person having put Catacratus to the rout,See the Romans in britain. as I have mention'd in another place, carried him to Rome to grace his Ovation, or lesser sort of Triumph. This is that Plautius, who by the advice of one Caius Bericus a British exile (pretences for war continually offering themselves) first after Julius Caesar made an attempt on Britain under the Emperour Claudius;Claudius in Britain. whom Claudius himself soon follow'd with the whole force of the Empire,† and abundance of Elephants, the bones of which being casually found, have given rise to several groundless stories. Passing the Thames, he put the Britains to flight that stood to receive him on the other side, and easily possess'd himself of this Camalodunum. For which atchievements his son being honour'd with the title of Britannicus, and himself often saluted Emperour, six months after his setting out he return'd to Rome. But I have spoke of these matters more fully in another place, and am not willing to trouble the Reader with a repetition of them here.
Camalodunum being thus reduced under the subjection of the Romans, Claudius placed here a stout band of Veterans for a Colony, and coined money in memory of this action, with the following Inscription: ‘Colonia Camalodunum.COL. CAMALODVN.’ From which it appears that this happen'd in the twelfth year of that Emperour, which falls in with the year of Christ 52. In an old Inscription (which you have here set down) 'tis call'd COLONIA VICTRICENSIS, from the Veterans of the fourteenth Legion, which had the name of Gemina Martia Victrix, whom Tacitus calls the Conquerours of Britain.
Now a Colony (if the knowledge of this be material) is a body of men brought into a fortify'd place,Servius. and invested with the right of possession. These for the most part were Veterans; both that provision might be made for them, and that they might defend the place against rebels, and inure the friends and allies of the Romans to the laws and customs of the Empire. These Colonies were in great honour and esteem, being, as it were,Tacitus [...]f this C [...] images and representations of the city of Rome. They had their Magistrates too, superiour and inferiour; of which since others have given us an account already, 'twould be unnecessary for me to spend my time in describing them. In this Roman Colony (the first in Britain) was a temple erected to the honour of Claudius; Tacitus calls it,The A [...] and Temp e to Claud [...]s. The altar of eternal dominion. Seneca too takes notice of it in his scoffing Satyr on the death and deification of that Emperour. 'Tis no great matter (saith he) that Claudius hath a temple in Britain, which the barbarous people now worship and adore as a deity. For there were Priests chosen to his honour, namely the Sodales Augustales, who under pretence of religion, juggl'd the poor Britains out of their fortunes and estates. But after ten years space the course of things changed, and this Colony was utterly ruined. For when the Veterans, that were brought into this country after it had been subdued, exercis'd too cruel a tyranny over their poor subjects; the sparks of the war, which had lay conceal'd for so long a time, broke out into a more violent flame than ever. The Britains under [Page 349-350] the conduct of Bunduica or Boodicia, plunder'd and burnt this Colony that was secur'd with no fortifications; and in two days space storm'd the temple where the Soldiers had got together to defend themselves, routed the ninth Legion that was coming to their assistance; [...]avs [...]0000. and in a word, kill'd 70000 Romans and Allies. This dreadful slaughter was foretold by several prodigies.Prodigies. The image of Victory in this city turn'd it self round, and fell to the earth. In the Court were heard strange cries, and the Theaters sounded with howling and groans: houses were seen under the water of Thames, and the neighbouring bay overflow'd with blood. This day we since call Blackwater, (though I know not for what reason) as Ptolemy calls it Idumanus, [...]manus. which seems in some manner to denote the same, Ydu in British signifying black. Yet the Romans rais'd it again out of its ashes: for Antoninus makes mention of it a long time after this. During the Saxon government we scarce find it nam'd; only Marian informs us that Edward son to King Alfred restor'd Malduna, which had been ruin'd by the Danish fury; 914 and fortified it with a castle. William the Conquerour (as we read in Domesday) had in it 180 houses, held by the Burgesses, and 18 Mansions laid waste. At present, for largeness and store of inhabitants, it is justly reckon'd among the chief towns of this County, and is call'd by the Lawyers the Borough of Maldon. It is a pretty convenient station, and for its bigness populous enough; being one long street, reaching for a mile together19 [g].
Six miles from Camalodunum, Antoninus fixeth the place which he calls Ad Ansam. Ad Ansam. I should guess this to have been some mark relating to the bounds of that Colony,Bounds of the Colo [...]es. made in the shape of a handle. For I have read in Siculus Flaccus; The fields that lay near the Colonies were determin'd by several sorts of bounds: in the limits there were placed for marks sometimes one thing, and sometimes another. In some a little statue of Mercury; in others a wine vessel; in others a Spatula; in others a Rhombus, or figure in shape like a Lozenge; and in some, according to Vitalis and Arcadius, a flagon or a jar. And why might not Ansa be such a mark? especially since Antoninus hath Ad Ansam, and not Ansae, as his usual custom is. What a religious care they took in setting up their land-marks, I shall by a short digression describe out of the same Author.f For in ordering and disposing these bounds, first they brought the stones and set them on the firm ground, nigh the place where they design'd to dig holes to fix them in. Then they adorn'd them with ointments, coverings, and garlands. Having kill'd and sacrific'd a spotless victim on the hole where they were to set them, they dropt down the blood on burning torches that were plac'd in the earth, and scatter'd fruit upon them. They added to these, wine, honey-combs, and whatever else was customary in such sacrifices; and when the fire had consum'd all the provision, they plac'd stones that were for the boundary on the burning coals, and so fasten'd it with all imaginable care, treading in small fragments of stones round about it, to make it the more firm. Wherever this station Ad Ansam was, I continue in my former opinion about the name of it; That it was either a boundary in that shape, or some Inn on the road with this sign: and this from the near distance between it and Cogshall. Nor were all they any other than Inns or Boundaries, which the Romans after the same form of speech, call'd Ad Columnam, Ad Fines, Ad tres Tabernas, Ad Rotam, Ad septem Fratres, Ad Aquilam minorem, Ad Herculem, &c. But a longer enquiry into these matters would be time and pains meerly thrown away to no purpose20 [h].
After, this the banks give entrance to the salt-water in a large and most pleasant bay, abounding exceedingly with the best sort of OystersOysters. which we call Wallfleot-oysters. And lest the shore of our kingdom should be depriv'd of its deserv'd credit, I fancy these to have been them which Pliny tells us serv'd the Roman Kitchins. For Mutian reckons our British Oysters in the third place after those of Cizicum, in these words; The Cizican are larger than the Lucrine, and sweeter than the British. But neither at that time, nor afterwards when Sergius Orata brought the Lucrine Oysters into request,Lib. 9. c. 54. did the British shore (for so he words it) serve Rome with Oysters. So that he seems to give the preheminence to the British ones.
These two are the same, I believe, that Ausonius calls mira, or wonderful, in that verse of his to Paulinus:
But to speak of these, and of the stews or pits on this shore which they are preserv'd in, would be a more proper subject for such persons, as by reason of their exquisite palate, are able to decide the nicest criticisms in a kitchin.
Into this bay, among other rivers, runs the Coln [i], which rising from the joint forces of several springs in the northern part of the County, washeth Hedningham, or Hengham, commonly Heningham, formerly a neat castle, and the old seat of the Earls of Oxford21. Opposite to which, on the other side of the water, lies Sibble-Heningham, the birth-place (as I have been told) of the famous22 John Hawkwood, call'd corruptly by the Italians Aucuth. By whom he was so highly admir'd for his courage and conduct in war, that the Senate of Florence, in token of his extraordinary deserts, honour'd him with a statue on horseback, and a noble tomb, as a testimony of his valour and fidelity. The Italians talk largely of his Noble exploits, and Paulus Jovius celebrates them in his Elogies. I shall only set down these four verses o f [...]eroldus.
Hence the Coln keeps on its course through Hawsted, which was the seat of the family of the Bourgchiers; of whom Robert Bourgchier was Chancellor of England in the time of Edward 3. and from him an honourable series of Earls and Lords are descended. From hence passing through Earls-Coln (so call'd by reason of its being the burying place of the Earls of Oxford; where Aubry de Vere 24 founded a small Convent, and took himself a religious habit) it goes on to Colonia, which Antoninus mentions, and makes a different place from Colonia Camaloduni. Whether this Colonia Colonia. be deriv'd from the same word signifying a Colony, or from the river Coln, let Apollo determine [k]. For my part, I am more inclin'd to the latter opinion, since I have seen several little towns, that adding the name of Coln to that of their respective Lords, are call'd Earls-Coln, Wakes-Coln, Coln-Engain, Whites-Coln. This city the Britains call'd Caer Colin, the Saxons Coleceaster, and we Colchester. Colchester. 'Tis a beautiful, populous, and pleasant place, [Page 351-352] extended on the brow of an hill from West to East, surrounded with walls, and adorn'd with 15 Parish-Churches; 1105 besides that large Church which Eudo, Sewer to Henry 1. built in honour of St. John. This is now turn'd into a private house. In the middle of the city stands a castle ready to fall with age: Historians report it to have been built by Edward son to Aelfred, when he repair'd Colchester, which had suffer'd very much in the wars25. But that this city flourish'd even more than ever in the time of the Romans, abundance of their coins found every day fully evince [l]. Though I have met with none ancienter than Gallienus, the greatest part of them being those of the Tetrici, Victorini, Posthumus, C. Carausius, Helena, mother to Constantine the Great. Constantine, and the succeeding Emperours. The inhabitants glory that Fl. Julia Helena, mother to Constantine the Great, was born in this city, daughter to King Coelus. And in memory of the Cross which she found, they bear for their arms, a Cross enragled between four Crowns. Of her and of this city thus sings Alexander Necham, though with no very lucky vein:
The truth is, she was a woman of a most holy life, and of an unweary'd constancy in propagating the Christian Faith: whence in old inscriptions she is often stiled, PIISSIMA, and VENERA-BILIS AUGUSTA. Between this city, where the Coln emptieth it self into the sea, lyes the the little town of St. Osith; the old name was* Chic, Chic. the present it receiv'd from the holy Virgin St. Osith, S. Osithe. who devoting her self entirely to God's service, and being stabbed here by the Danish pyrates, was by our ancestors esteem'd a Saint. In memory of her, Richard Bishop of London about the year 1120. built a Religious house, and fill'd it with Canons Regular. This is now the chief seat of the right honourable the Lords Darcy, Barons Darcy of Chich. stiled Lords of Chich, who were advanc'd to the dignity of Barons by Edward the sixth26 [m].
From hence is stretch'd out a vast shore as far as Nesse-point, Nesse. in Saxon Eadulphesness. What was once found hereabouts, let Ralph de Coggeshal tell you, who wrote about 350 years ago. In the time of King Richard, on the sea-shore, in a village call'd Edulfinesse, were found two teeth of a Giant, Giants. of such a prodigious bigness, that two hundred of such teeth, as men ordinarily have now, might be cut out of one of them. These I saw at Cogshal, and handled with great admiration. Another, I know not what Gigantick relique, was found near this place in the beginning of Q. Elizabeth, by the noble R. Candish. I can't deny but there have been men of such extraordinary bulk and strength, as to be accounted prodigies; whom God (as St. Austin tells us) therefore produc'd in the world, to show that comeliness of body and greatness of stature, were therefore not to be esteem'd among the good things, because they were common to the impious, with the virtuous and religious. Yet we may justly suspect, what Suetonius hath observ'd, that the vast joints and members of great beasts, dugg up in other countries, and in this kingdom too, have been commonly term'd and reputed the bones of Giants Bones of Giants. [n].
From this point the shore runs back a little to the Stour's mouth, famous for a sea-fight between the Saxons and Danes in the year 884. Here is now seated Harewich, Harewi [...]. a very safe harbour, as the name imports; for the Saxon Hare-ƿic signifies as much as an haven or bay where an army may lye 27 [o]. This is that Stour which parteth Essex and Suffolk, and on this side runs by no memorable place, only some fat pastures. But not far from the spring of this river stands Bumsted, which the family of the Helions held by Barony28. And in those parts of this county which are opposite to Cambridgeshire, lyes Barklow, Barkl w. Old Ba [...] rows. famous for four great Barrows, such as our ancestors us'd to raise to the memory of those Soldiers that were kill'd in battel, and their bodies lost. But when two others in the same place were dugg up and search'd, we are told that they found three stone Coffins, and abundance of pieces of bones in them. The Country-people have a tradition that they were rais'd after a battel with the Danes. And the [...]. Wall-wort or Dwarf-elder that grows hereabouts in great plenty, and bears red berries, they call by no other name but Dane's-blood, Danes-blood. denoting the multitude of Danes that were there slain.
Lower among the fields, that look pleasantly with Saffron, is seatedg Walden, Wald [...]. a market-town, call'd thence Saffron-Walden 29. It was famous formerly for the castle of the Magnavils, which now scarce appears at all; and for an adjacent little Monastery30,Commonly call'd Ma [...] d [...]ville [...]. in which the Magnavils, founders of it, lye interr'd. Jeffrey de Magnaville was the first that gave life, as it were, to this place. For Maud the Empress gave him Newport a pretty neighbouring town, in these words, which are transcrib'd from the Original Charter. For as much as he us'd to pay at the day of my father Henry's death: and to remove the market of Newport to his castle of Walden, with all the customs which before belong'd to the said market in Toll, passage, and other customs. And that the way of Newport, which lyes near the shore, be turn'd to Walden according to custom, upon the ground forfeited to me; and that the market at Walden be kept on Sundays and Thursdays, and that there be a fair held in Walden, to begin on Whitsun-eve, and last all the following week. (From this market the place was long call'd Chepping-Walden.) We read also in the Register of this Abbey, He appointed Walden as the head of his Honour and the whole County, for a seat for himself and his heirs. The place, where he built the Monastery, had great plenty of water, which ran here continually from springs that never dried up. The Sun visits it very early in the morning, and forsakes it very soon in the evening, being kept off by the hills on each side. This place is now call Audley-end, from31 Thomas Audley Chancellor of England,Baron [...]dley of Walden. who chang [...]d the Monastery into a dwelling-house for himself. He was created Baron Audley of Walden by Hen. 8. and left one daughter and heir Margaret, second wife to Thomas Howard Duke of Norfolk, who had issue by her, Thomas, William, Elizabeth and Margaret. Thomas, famous for his experience in sea-affairs, was summon'd to Parliament by Q. Elizabeth, An. 1587▪ by the name of Lord Howard by Walden. And lately King James hath created him Earl of Suffolk, and made him his Chamberlain32. Near whose house at Chesterford, there was seated a much ancienter little city near Icaldune, in the very utmost limits of the County; which now from the old Burrough, the Country-people call Burrow-bank. Burrow-bank. There are only the marks of a ruin'd place to be seen, and the plain track of the walls. Yet I shall by no means affirm it to beh the Villa Faustini which Antoninus mentions in these parts: and tho'
Yet I shan't so much as dream this to have been the [Page 353-354] place described in these and the other verses of the ingeniousMartial. Epigrammatist. The fields, as I have said before, look very pleasant with sown Saffron33.Saffron. For in the month of July every third year, when the roots have been taken up, and after twenty days put under the turf again, about the end of September, they shoot forth a bluish flower, out of the midst whereof hang down three yellow chives of Saffron, which are gather'd best in the morning before sunrise, and being taken out of the flower, are dried by a gentle fire. And so wonderful is the increase, that from every acre of ground, they gather 80 or 100 pound of wet Saffron, which when it's dry will be about 20 pound. And what's more to be admir'd, that ground which hath bore Saffron three years together, will bear Barley very plentifully 18 years without dunging, and afterwards will be fit enough for Saffron.
B [...]rons of C [...]avering.More to the South lies Clavering, which Hen. 2. gave, with the title of a Baron, to34 Robert Fitz-Roger, from whom the family of the Euers are descended. His posterity having, after the old way, for a long time taken for their sirname the Christian-name of their father (as, John Fitz-Robert, Robert Fitz-John, &c.) at length, upon the command of Edw. 1. took the name of Clavering from this place. But of these when we come to Northumberland. See in Northumberland. Here too Stansted-Montfitchet presents it self to our view, which I can't pass by in silence, since it was formerly the seat or Barony of the family of the Montfitchets, Barons Montfitchet. Arms of the Montfitch [...]. who bore for Arms Three Cheverons Or, in a shield gules, and were reckon'd among the most honourable of our Nobility. But the male-line continued no farther than to five Descents, when the inheritance fell to three sisters; Margaret, wife to Hugh de Bolebec, Aveline to William de Fortibus Earl of Albemarle,The Playzes and Philippa wife to Hugh Playz. The posterity of the last continued till within the memory of our Grandfathers, and ended in a daughter married to Sir John Howard Kt. from whose daughter, by35 George Vere, the Lords Latimer and Wingfield are descended. A little lower stands Haslingbury, H [...]s [...]ingbury. the seat of the Lords Morley, of whom more in Norfolk. Adjoyning to this, is an old military Vallum, thence call'd Wallbery; and more to the East Barrington-Hall, the seat of the noble family of the Barringtons, Barrington. who in the time of King Stephen were greatly enrich'd with the estate of the Lords Montfitchet, that then fell to them: and in the memory of our fathers, a match with the daughter and heir of36 Henry Pole Lord Montacute, son and heir to Margaret Countess of Salisbury, render'd them more illustrious by an alliance with the royal blood37.
After the Norman Conquest, Maud the Empress, Lady of the English, as she used to stile her self, created Geoffrey de Magneville, [...]rls of Essex. or Mandevil, son of William by Margaret, heiress to EudoDapiferi. Sewer, first Earl of Essex, that she might draw to her party a man of that great power and experience in war. He, in the civil disturbances under King Stephen38, lost his troublesome life in the field. 'Twas he too (as ancient writers inform us) who for his many villanous practices incurr'd the sentence of Excommunication; [...]egister of W [...]lden. under which, at the little town of Burwell, he receiv'd a mortal wound in the head. As he was just expiring, some Templars came in, who put on him the habit of their Order marked with a red cross; and when he was dead, carried him away with them into their own precincts, the old Temple at London, where putting him into a pipe of lead, they hanged him upon a tree 39. To him succeeded his 2 sons40 Geoffrey and William, both taken off without issue. Afterwards K. John, in consideration of a good sum of money, [...]-Pierz, [...] F [...]z- [...]re. promoted Geoffrey Fitz-Pierz L. Ch. Justice, a very prudent and grave man, to this dignity. He had took to wife Beatrice eldest daughter to William de Say, descended from the sister of Geoffrey de Magnavil first Earl of Essex. A great mony'd man (saith an old Author) and very rich, who with a round sum of money, and many entreaties, made his application to the Bishop of Ely the King's Justice, and laid claim to this Earldom (in right of his wife, daughter of William brother to Geoffry de Say, eldest son) by an hereditary title. Who admitted him into full seizin thereof, and demanded the promis'd sum, which he receiv'd within a little time, to put into the King's Exchequer. He being thus admitted, and confirm'd by the King's Letters Patents, held and possess'd this honour, and receiv'd the Homage of those that held of him by Knight's service 41. Geoffrey and William, the two sons of this Geoffrey Fitz-Piers, taking the sirname of Magnavil or Mandevil, enjoy'd this honour. The former of these42 died young,Register of Walden-Abbey. being unfortunately kill'd at a publick Tilting. The other took part with Prince Lewis of France against King John, and died without issue. So that the honour now fell to43 Humfrey de Bohun Earl of Hereford and Constable of England. For thus writes the Chronologer of Walton-Abbey: In the year 1228. the 6th of the Ides of January, William de Mandevil Earl of Essex died, &c. In the same year Humfrey de Bohun Earl of Hereford, the Constable of England, espoused Maud, daughter to Geoffrey Earl of Essex, and so succeeded in that honour. But from the Archives it is evident, that Henry de Bohun, father to this Humfrey, married the said heiress. And such a mistake might easily creep in; for in the Writers of that age the Christian-names are only marked with great Letters; as,See the Earls of Hereford. H. for Henry or Humfrey, G. for Gilbert or Geoffrey, &c. Of this family the male heirs succeeded in the dignity of Earls of Hereford and Essex for several years: whom I have already reckon'd up among the Earls of Hereford, because they wrote themselves Earls of Hereford and Essex. Eleanor eldest daughter to the last of the Bohuns given in marriage (with the honour) to Thomas de Woodstock Duke of Glocester, had by him one daughter Anne, first married to Edmund Earl of Stafford, from whom sprang the Dukes of Buckingham; and then to44 William Bourgchier, to whom K. Henry 5. gave the County of Ewe in Normandy. This last had by her a son of his own name, advanced to the dignity of Earl of Essex by Edw. 4.45. He was succeeded by another Henry his son's son, who died in his old age by a fall from his horse, leaving issue only one daughter Anne; who being laid aside, King Henry 8. (that he might make new additions to his honours and preferments) created Thomas Cromwell, who had been his main assistant in baffling the Pope's authority, at the same time Earl of Essex, High Chamberlain of England, and Knight of the Garter. Before this, for his extraordinary prudence he had made him Master of the Rolls, Secretary of State, Baron Cromwell of Okeham, Vicar General to the King in spiritual concerns, and Lord Keeper; and all this in five years time. But after five months enjoyment of his Earldom, he (like most great favourites in the State) concluded his scene of life with a most tragical end, losing his head for treason. The same King promoted to the Earldom of Essex46 William Par, to whom he had given in marriage Anne the only daughter and heir of Henry Bourgchier. But he too at last dying without issue, Walter Devreux Viscount Hereford, whose great grandmother was Cicely Bourgchier sister to Henry Bourgchier (of whom we spoke but now,) receiv'd the honour of Earl of Essex by the favour of Queen Elizabeth; and left it to his son Robert, who being for his excellent natural endowments highly in favour with that admirable Princess, sail'd with such a smooth and prosperous gale into honours and preferments, as to make it the common hope and expectation of the Kingdom that he would equal if not exceed the greatest characters [Page 355-356] of his Ancestors. But at last being carried away with vain ambition and popularity, and endeavouring to get the start of his own hopes, he hurried himself into a sad destruction. As several persons, who condemn slow methods, though secure, choose sudden ones to their utter ruin. But his young son Robert was restor'd to full possession of his father's honour by authority of Parliament, through the special favour of our present most Serene Soveraign King James.
There are reckoned in this County 415 Parish-Churches.
ADDITIONS to ESSEX.
[a] THE County of Essex is so bounded with waters, that by the help of the Ocean on one side, and Rivers on others, it makes a Peninsula. As to Viscountile Jurisdiction, it seems formerly to have been annext to Hertfordshire; for in the 8th of Edward 3. John de Cogshall was Sheriff of them both: about which time also one Escheator discharg'd the office in both.
[b] Our Author begins with Waltham-forrest, Waltham-forrest. which might very well be call d (as he observes) the Forrest of Essex, reaching formerly through this County as far as the Sea;Norden's Essex, MS. as appeareth by Edward the Confessor's gift to one Randolph Peperkin. It still is so large as to thrust it self out into a great many Hundreds.
[c] Near the Thames is Leyton, Leyton. where Mr. Camden is enclin'd to settle the Durolitum Durolitum. of Antoninus; though he professes himself altogether at a loss for the places mention'd hereabouts by the Ancients. And 'tis no wonder that he should; for he sought for them in a wrong road, viz. in that from London to Rumford, Burntwood, &c. which is inded a shorter cut through Essex into Suffolk and Norfolk, but not at all us'd till some time after the Conquest; and even then not much frequented, by reason it was exceeding woody, and pester'd with robbers. Notwithstanding, as to this Durolitum, he seems to be altogether in the right. For not to mention that one Ward of Leyton-parish is still call'd Leyton-stone, which answers the old Roman way of expressing miles by stones, and may be some confirmation of Mr. Camden's conjecture, that for v. lapidem, is falsly read in the Itinerary xv. lapidem: to omit that, the Roman Antiquities found here, argue it to have been a Roman station. For of late years (as I was inform'd by a curious Gentleman of those parts) there was a large urne resembling a great cream-pot, taken up in the Church-yard of this village, with some ashes and coals sticking to the sides of it. It is now in the custody of the present Vicar. And between this town and Stratford-Langton, near Ruckols or Ruckholt-hall, Ruckholt-hall. the seat of Sir William Hicks Knight and Baronet, on the south-side of a lane call'd Blind-lane, (which was the ancient High-way that led out of Essex through Oldford to London,) abundance of these Urns of several sizes, figures, and moulds, have been and are still taken up by the Gravel-diggers there, within two or three foot of the surface of the Earth. In some of these pots are ashes, and in some divers small pieces and slivers of bones, which have not been quite consum'd in the Funeral fires. And within this piece of land, are not only found the remains of burnt bodies; but coffins and bones have been found, as well as pots; and among the rest, a chin-bone of a very great bigness, much exceeding that of an ordinary man. In the same place was digg'd up a small brazen figure, resembling a man.
[d] From Durolitum the Itinerary leads us to Caesaromagus, Caesaromagus. which according to Mr. Camden was at Burghsted, andBurton's Itinerary, p. 197. in the opinion of Talbot, at Chensford or Chernsford. But why they should wheel about from Leyton to seek for Caesaromagus in those parts, seems a little strange. Had they gone from thence right over Epping-Forrest, about the distance from London in the Itinerary, viz. 28 miles, they would have met with a town, the first sight whereof might promise something great and august. I mean Dunmow, Dunmow. writ in Domesday Dunmaw, and as Mr. Ousley has observ'd (to whose information the world is in a great measure indebted for setting right the ancient names of places in this County) in old Deeds, now in the possession of some of the neighbouts thereabouts, Dunmage. Mr. Newcourt also takes notice that it is sometimes so writ in the Registry of the London-Diocese. And Mr. Camden himself says it was formerly call'd Dunmawg; which would have hinted to him this Caesaromagus, but that his search was directed quite another way. Now this Dunmow appears even from the name to be a place of great Antiquity, being deriv'd from two old Gaulish, or Brittish words; Dunum, a dry grav [...]lly hill, and magus a town. As for the change of Mawe, mauge, or Mage into mow, it is exceeding natural, whether we consider the sound of (a) chang'd commonly in after times into (o), as ham, home; fald, fold, &c. or the melting of (g) into (w), than which nothing is more common and obvious to any one who compares the more ancient and modern words. So that no difference now remains, but substituting dun for Caesaro; and nothing was more common with the Saxons, than to take part of the Roman name, and out of it to frame another by addition of burh, chester, dun, &c. Besides, the agreeableness of distance between this and the next station, adds strength to the conjecture, that Dunmow is the relict of Caesaromagus, distant in the Itinerary from Colonia (Colchester) 24 miles; which may agree well enough with the common computation of 20. since (as appears by Domesday-book) our reckoning is according to the Saxon or German Leugs, consisting of 1500 paces, and the Italick make only 1000. Add to this, that from Dunmow to Colchester is a direct road, wherein are still, in some places, to be seen the remains of an old Roman way; which by the Country-people that live upon it, is to this day (particularly at Raine) call'd The Street: the very word (strata,) us'd by our Country-man Bede to signifie a Roman-road. And in an old Perambulation of the Forrest in the time of King John, it is said to bound on the north super stratam ducentem à Dunmow versus Colcestriam, upon the street leading from Dunmow towards Colchester; meaning this road.
Going to the sea-coast, we meet with Blackwater-bay, famous for the Wallfleot-Oysters, Wallf [...]t-oysters. which are in great request among men of the best account.N [...]rde [...] Essex MS. They are so call'd from the shore of that name where they lye; along which the inhabitants have been forc'd to build a wall of earth to defend themselves against the breakings in of the sea. It was five miles in length; and upon that shore only where this reaches, are these oysters to be met with.
[e] Into this creek or bay runs Chelmer, upon which stands Dunmow, prov'd already to be the Caesaromagus of Antonine.Plo [...] Staff [...]dshire. p [...] In the Priory here, was instituted by Robert Fitz-Walter (a powerful Baron in the time of Henry 3.) a custom, that whoever did not repent of his marriage, or quarrel'd with his wife within a year and a day, should go to Dunmow and have a gamon of bacon. But then the party must swear to the truth of it, kneeling upon two hard-pointed stones set in the Priory Church-yard for that purpose, before the Prior and Convent, and the whole Town.
[f] Not far from hence is Hatfield-Broad-oak, in which Church lyeth cross-legg'd the first Earl of Oxford. And at some distance lyes Chelmsford, in the opinion of our Author, the old Canonium of Antoninus. But perhaps that station may be better settl'd [Page 357-358] at Writtle, W [...]ttle. Canonium. not far from it; as by reason of the distances from Caesaromagus and Camalodunum, so also upon another account. 'Tis an observation made by Antiquaries, that the Saxon Kings and Nobles seated themselves upon the forsaken Camps and Stations of the Romans. And this town (so far as there is any light from Records to direct us) has always been in the possession of Kings or Noble-men.Domesd [...]. It was King Harold's before the Conquest, and King William's after; and so continu'd in the Crown, [...]aus. 6. J [...]m. 9. till King John pass'd part of it to Nevill for life. Afterwards it was grantedRot. [...] Hen. [...]. m. 2. C. 2 H. 3. m. 4. by Henry 3. to Philip de Atheney, and to William Earl of Salisbury. Besides, another share (as Mr. Camden observes) pass'd to Brus. As for Chelmsford, that indeed was a villa belonging to the Bishop of London, when the Conqueror's Survey was made, and so continu'd till Bishop Bonner alienated it to Henry 8. But it was of no great note till Bishop Maurice built the bridge there about the time of Henry 1. and his Successor, William Bishop of London, procur'd from King John, Anno regni 1. a Market there, and An. 2. a Fair. When it grew thus famous, the road (which is most considerable as to our business) began to be through this town, tho' till then it had all along laid through Writtle, which we suppose to be the old Canonium.
Upon the river Froshwel or Pant, which also runneth into this bay, is Finchingfield, F [...]hingf [...]d. held of Edw. 3. by John Compes, by the service of turning the Spit at his Coronation.
[g] Going along with this river towards the Sea, we find Maldon, Maldon. without all doubt the ancient Camalodunum, tho' (as our Author observes) several men have sought it in other places. It has been so largely treated upon by Authors, that little more can be said. Only, as to the original of the name, concerning which most of them seem to be at a loss, a [...]mmes [...]. late Writer has advanc'd a new one in favour of his own hypothesis; that it comes from Camol, which in the Phoenician signifies a Prince and Governour; and the old dun a hill: so that this may be call'd the King's-hill; as Mons Capitolinus at Rome, signifies Jupiter's-hill. Its being Cunob [...]lin's Regia (as our Author calls it) or Palace, seems to give some strength to the conjecture; but then how it will suit with the old Altar-Inscription, which mentions Camulus Deus, and the coins which confirm it, I very much doubt: and these must be lookt upon as the best authority.
In a garden at Maldon, was found a piece of gold, almost as large as a Guinea. It has on one side Nero, and on the reverse Agrippina; and is very exactly done.
[h] At six miles distance from Camalodunum, the Itinerary mentions Ad Ansam, Ad A [...]sam which our Author thought to have been a Terminus to that famous Colony. [...]. A later writer imagines Ad Ansam might be written instead of Ad Arcam: which if true, favours the conjecture of Mr. Camden; because Arca was a monument also, such as they set up in the borders of fields, and observ'd for limits. Hence we read in an old Glossary, Arcae, [...], i.e. the utmost extent of possessions. As for the position of it, he imagines from the distances, it could not be far from Coggeshal I [...]id.; and what has since hap'ned in those parts, confirms his opinion. By the road-side was discover'd an Hypogaeum or Grot, with arched work; wherein was a lamp in a glass vial, cover'd with a Roman tile▪ whose diameter was 14 inches. There were also some urns and crocks, wherein were ashes and bones. Amongst the rest, was one of a polite and most fine substance, resembling rather Co [...]al than red Earth, and had this Inscription upon the cover, Coccillim, perhaps for Coccilli. M. that is, Coccilli Manibus. If this Coccillus was some Governour, who under Antoninus Pius had the command of these places (asFuneral. M [...]men. Weaver imagines,) 'tis possible that the present name Coggeshall may have still some remains of that.
Notwithstanding which, there is this objection lyes against our Author's conjecture. From Dunmow (the old Caesaromagus) to Colonia or Colchester, there is a direct Port-way runs through Coggeshal. Now if that had been the old Ad Ansam, 'tis unaccountable how the Itinerary (which often takes a wide circuit to hook in a town) should in the 5th Iter pass by this that lays in its road. What then if we should pitch upon Wittham? The direct road from Combretonium (or Bretton in Suffolk) the next station before Ad Ansam (Iter 9.) lyes through it: and it stands at an exact distance from Camalodunum (Maldon) which immediately follows Ad Ansam in the Itinerary, viz. six miles. Besides, it does not want good evidences of its Antiquity; for between the Church and the Street are still visible the remains of a large old Camp; though much of the fortifications are digg'd down to make way for the plow, and a road lyes through the midst of it. What Matthew Westminster has observ'd of a Castle built there by Edward the Elder about the year 912. or 914. and how in the mean time he kept his Court at Maldon; is a farther testimony of its Antiquity, since (as we observ'd before) the Saxon Nobility made choice of the forsaken Camps of the Romans.
If these arguments be convincing that Ad Ansam was at Wittham, and that the ruinous Camp there, is the remains of it; then 'tis probable that the stately Manour-place here in Fauburn, a mile distant from it, was formerly the Villa or Country-house of some noble Roman. And what renders the conjecture more plausible, is a silver Coin of Domitian, discover'd under the very foundation of an old wall (built partly of Roman brick) by the servants of Edward Bullock Esq Lord of the Manour; who having had a liberal education in Trinity-College in Cambridge, and marry'd first the daughter of Sir Mark Guien, and secondly the daughter of Sir Josiah Child, is a real ornament to this place.
[i] Not far from the river Coln, near the head of it is Wetherfield, Wetherfield. which I find in an old Deed of Hugh Nevills, to be written Weresfield. This Hugh was with King Richard the first in his wars in the Holy Land, where he slew a Lyon by an arrow-shot, and by running him through with his sword; which gave occasion to that old verse,
To the above-mention'd Deed (which is short and plain, according to the undesigning simplicity of those times,) is affixt his Seal, wherein is exprest the manner of this Atchievement, and about which is written, Sigillum Hugonis Nevil. It is now in the possession of Mr. John Nevil of Redgwell in this County; who is a branch of that family, descended from the Nevils of Raby-castle in the Bishoprick of Durham.
[k] Upon the river Coln, nearer to the sea, lyes Colchester, Colchester. the ancient Colonia, Colonia. from whence both the river and the town seem to have borrow'd their names. For we know, it was usual for the Saxons to make new names, by adding their ceaster or burh, &c. to a part of the Roman; though it is not to be doubted but the Earls Colne, Wakes Colne, &c. mention'd by our Author, and probably of much later being, were so call'd immediately from the river, as that from the Colony. Why might not this be a Colony of the Londoners, (as London-derry of late years in Ireland,) especially since Tacitus has particularly observ'd, that London was a famous Mart town, and very populous? If this be allow'd, there is no doubt but that Adelphius de Civitate Colonia Londinensium (one of the British Bishops at the first Council of Arles) had his Seat here; though it be deny'd by some Learned men, for no other reason but an imaginary supposition of a mistake committed by some ignorant Transcriber.
[l] Beside the Roman Coyns (the remains of Antiquity mention'd by our Author,)Aubr. MS. there are also old Roman bricks aequilaterally square, like paving-bricks, but thinner; and some huge thick ones. 'Tis likewise observable, that the Towers and Churches are built of Roman bricks and ruins. And at the Queens-head inn, in the market-place, the stable, as also the room above it, is of Roman building.
[m] At some distance from the river is Lair-Marney, Lair-Marney. Norden MS. Essex. so call'd from the Lord Marney to whom [Page 359-360] it belong'd, and who, with some others of that name, lye interr'd in very fair tombs in the Church there.
Upon the sea-coast lies Mersey-Island, Mersey Island. containing eight parishes. It is a place of great strength, and may almost be kept against all the world; for which reason the Parliament clapt in a thousand men to guard it from being seiz'd by the Dutch, about the beginning of the Dutch-war.
[n] Beyond which, to the east, is Great Clackton, Great Clackton. Norden. where was sometime a stately house of the Bishops of London, and a park; but the house is now fallen, and the Park dispark'd.
[o] To the north-east, upon the sea coast, is Harwich, Harwich. Sylas Taylo [...]'s Hist. of Harwich, MS. the walls of which town are for the most part built, and the streets generally pitcht with a petrify'd sort of clay falling f [...]om the Cliffs thereabouts. For from the side of the Cliff between the beacon and the town, issues a spring of excellent clear water; and thereabouts is a sort of bluish clay, which tumbling down upon the shore, notwithstanding it is wash'd by the sea at high-water, is in a short time turn'd into stone. Some that are new fallen are as soft as the clay in the Cliff; others that have lain longer, crusted over and hard: but if open'd or broke, the clay is still soft in the middle. Others that have lain longest, are petrify'd to the very heart.
This water doth petrifie wood as well as clay: a large piece sent from hence is reserved in the Repository of the Royal Society.
After what has been said in Kent (under the title of Arsenals for the Royal Navy) it will not be wonder'd at, that our learned Author enlargeth no farther in his observations upon this place, than what relates to the security of the Road; without ought mention'd of the importance, which (through the growth of the Marine Action of England since his time) it has been of to the Crown for 40 years past, and now is; from its present Conveniences for the ready cleaning and refitting of Ships of War resorting thither on that behalf, and its capacity for New-Erections to the degree of second and third Rates. Divers whereof have been since then built, and others said to be at this day in hand there, to the great accommodation of the State, and total extinction of the use our Ancestors did (to the beginning of this Century) generally make of Colne-water (in the neighbourhood of this place) for the harbouring of the Royal Navy.
Over-against it at Langerfort, Langerfort. (contracted from Land-guard-fort, which tho' it may seem to be in Suffolk, is notwithstanding by the Officers of his Majesty's Ordnance in the Tower of London, writ in Essex, according to former Precedents) are the reliques of an ancient fortification, which shew great labour and antiquity. The line of it runs southerly from a little without the town gate to the Beacon-hillfield, about the midst of which is a round artificial hill, cast up probably either for placing their Standard upon, or else for a Tumulus over some one of their Commanders deceas'd; for that we find common in a great many parts of England. Another work runs a-cross from the first easterly; but they are both broke off by the encroachings of the Sea.
Thorp, Kirkby, Walton.South of Harwich, are Thorp, Kirkby, and Walton, Norden's Essex MS. included within the ancient Liberty call'd the Liberty of the Soke. In these no man may be arrested by any kind of Process, but of the Bailiff of the Liberty, and not by him, but with the consent of the Lord first obtain'd. The Sheriff hath no power within this Liberty, in any cause whatsoever; but the Bailiff executeth all matters as if he had Viscountile Authority.
Continuation of the EARLS.
Robert, the last Earl mention'd by our Author, being restor'd in blood and honour, 1 Jac. 1. was twice marry'd, and by his second wife had only issue Robert, who dy'd young. So that d [...]parting this life Sept. 14. 1646. without issue, that honour became vacant, till shortly after the Restoration, K. Charles 2. created Arthur Capel (Baron of Hadham and Viscount Maldon) Earl of Essex, whose son Algernon now enjoys that honour.
More rare Plants growing wild in Essex.
Allium sylvestre bicorne flore ex herbaceo albicante, cum triplici in singulis petalis stria atro-purpurea. An Allium sive Moly montanum tertium Clus.? montanum bicorne, flore exalbido C. B.? Wild Garlick with an herbaceous striate flower. In a cornfield in Black Notley called West-field, adjoyning to Leez-lane, plentifully. This plant is now almost lost in this field.
H. Alopecuros maxima Anglica paludosa Park. The greatest English Marsh Fox-tail-grass. Said by Lobel to grow in the moist ditches near the river Thames.
Argemone capitulo longiore glabro Mor. D. Plot in Hist. nat. Oxon. Smooth-headed bastard Poppy. This was found by Mr. Dale at Bocking.
K. Atriplex maritima laciniata C. B. Jagged Sea-Orrache On the sandy shores in Mersey-Island near Colchester plentifully; also on the sandy shores at little Holland in Tendring Hundred, and elsewhere.
Atrip [...]ex angustifolia maritima dentata Hist. nost. p. 193. An Atrip. angustifolia laciniata minor J. B? maritima angustifolia C. B. prod.? At Maldon by the river, and on the banks of the marshes plentifully.
Auricula leporis minima J. B. An Bupleurum minimum Col. Park.? angustissimo folio C. B.? The least Hares-ear. At Maldon in the marshes by the river's side plentifully.
Clematis Daphnoides major C. B. major flore coeruleo albo J. B. Daphnoid. sive Pervinca major Ger. Daph. latifolia sive Vinca pervinca major Park. The greater Periwinkle. Found near Colchester hy Dr. Richardson. This plant I have found out of gardens; but being native of hot Countries, and frequent about Montpellier, I suspect it may owe its original to some plants weeded up and thrown out thence.
Clematis Daphnoides minor J. B. C. B. Vinca pervinca Officinarum minor Ger. vulgaris Park. Periwinkle. I have observed it in some fields by the road-side leading from Witham to Kelvedon in the hedges and among bushes: also in a hedge by the foot-way from Falburn-hall to Witham, and elsewhere.
Cochlearia folio sinuato C. B. vulgaris Park. Britannica Ger. English or common Sea-scurvy-grass. It grows so plentifully in the marshes about Maldon, that the common people gather it, and send it about to the markets above ten miles distant, where it is sold by measure.
Crocus J. B. Ger. sativus C. B. verus sativus Autumnalis Park. Saffron. It's planted and cultivated in the fields about Walden, thence denominated Saffron-Walden, plentifully. Of the culture whereof I shall say nothing, referring the Reader to what is above-written by Camden; and to the full description thereof in the Philosoph. Transact.
Conserva palustris Anglica, seu Filum marinum Anglicum. Marsh-Thread. In the marsh ditches about Maldon and elsewhere.
Cynoglossa folio virenti J. B. Cynoglossum minus folio virente Ger. semper virens C. B. Park. An Cynoglossa media altera virente folio, rubro flore, montana frigidarum regionum Col.? The lesser green-leav'd Hounds-tongue. Between Witham and Kelveden, but more plentifully about Braxted by the way sides.
Cyperus gramineus J. B. gramineus miliaceus Ger. Pseudo-cyperus miliaceus Park. Gramen cyperoides miliaceum C. B. Millet Cyperus-grass. By Bocking river, at the corn-mill below the town.
Cyperus rotundus litoreus inodorus Lob. J. B. rotundus inodorus Anglicus C. B. rotundus inodorus Ger. rotundus litoreus inodorus Anglicus. Park. Round rooted bastard Cyperus. Observed by Mr. Dale about Maldon plentifully.
Erica maritima Anglica supina Park. English Cow Sea-heath. On sandy banks by the way-side going from Heybridge to Goldhanger; also on the like banks in the marshes about Thurrington in this County: and elsewhere on the sea-coasts.
Gramen Avenaceum montanum, spica simplici, aristis recurvis. Mountain Oat-grass with a single spike and reflected awns. Found by Mr. Dale upon Bartlow-hills on the edge of Cambridgeshire. This I take to be the same with the Gramen Avenaceum glabrum panicula [Page 361-362] purpuro-argentea splendente of Mr. Doody: more strigose, and with a single spike, by reason of the dryness and barrenness of the place. See Middlesex.
Gramen caninum maritimum spicâ foliacea C. B. caninum maritimum alterum Ger. can. marit. alterum longiùs radicatum Park. Long-rooted Sea-dogs-grass with a foliaceous ear. Found by Mr. Dale on the shore in Mersey Island near Colchester.
Gramen cristatum quadratum, seu quatuor in spica cristarum ordinibus. Square-eared crested grass. Found by Mr. Dale at Notley, among corn.
Herba Paris. Herb Paris or True-love. In Chaulkney-wood 7 miles from Colchester, and in Saffron-Walden Ger. I have observ'd it in a little wood call'd Lampit-grove belonging to Black-Notley-hall. It is no very rare plant in woods, and sometimes also in hedges, all England over.
Hieracium castorei odore Monspeliensium. Hieracium Cichorei vel potiùs Stoeles folio hirsutum Cat. Cant. Rough Hawkweed smelling like Castor. I found it Anno 1690. plentifully growing in a field near my dwelling, belonging to the hall, called Stanfield, which had lain a-while since it was plowed.
Juncus acutus maritimus Anglicus Park. English Sea-hard-rush. In the marshy grounds about Maldon abundantly.
Lepidium latifolium C. B. Lepid Pauli J. B. Piperitis seu Lepidium vulgare Park. Rhaphanus sylvestris Officinarum, Lepidium Aeginetae Lobelio Ger. Dittander, Pepperwort. On the caussey leading to the Hithbridge at Colchester; and at Heybridge near Maldon by the water-side plentifully: as also at the Lime-kiln near Fulbridge.
S. Lathyri majoris species flore rubente & albido minor dumetorum, sive Germanicus J. B. The other great wild Lathyrus or everlasting Pease. Found by Mr. Dale near Castle Campes, in the hedges by the way that leads thence to Bartlow.
Lathyrus siliquâ hirsuta J. B. An Lath. angustifolius siliquâ hirsutâ C. B. Rough-codded Chickeling. In the fields about Hockley and Ralegh, and elsewhere in Rochford Hundred.
Lychnis sylvestris annua segetum flore dilutè rubente vel albo minimo. Sylv. alba spicâ reflexâ Bot. Monsp. arvensis minor Anglica Park. Little annual Corn Campion with a small blush flower. In the cornfields near Colchester observed by Mr. Dale.
Mentha angustifolia spicata glabra, folio rugosiore, odore graviore. Spear-mint with a more rugged leaf and strong scent. Found by Mr. Dale beside Bocking river, below the Fulling-mill, in two or three places.
Mentastri aquatici genus hirsutum, spica latiore J. B. Mentha palustris folio oblongo C. B. Mentastrum minus Ger. emac. hirsutum Park. Water-mint, with a grosser spike. This also was first found and shewn to me by Mr. Dale near the same river a little above the Fulling-mill: since, I observed it my self in a ditch near the Corn-mill, below the Fulling-mill plentifully.
Mentastrum folio rugoso rotundiore spontaneum, flore spicato, odore gravi J. B. Mentha sylvestris rotundiore folio C. B. Menthastrum Ger. descr Horse-mint, or Round-leav'd wild mint. In a moist place of a little meadow adjoyning to Fauburn-hall, the seat of my honoured friend Edward Bullock Esquire. Found also by Mr. Dale in a meadow behind the Alms-houses at Great Yeldham plentifully.
Mentastrum spicatum folio longiore candicante J. B. Mentha sylvestris folio longiore C. B. Long-leaved Horse-mint. Found by the same person in the same meadow with the precedent.
Orchis odorata moschata sive Monorchis C. B. pusilla odorata Park. parva autumnalis lutea J. B. The yellow sweet or musk Orchis. In black Notley on the greens of a field belonging to the hall called Wair-field.
Orchis sive Testiculus sphegodes hirsuto flore C. B. fucum referens, colore rubiginoso J. B. Sphegodes altera Park. Testiculus vulpinus major sphegodes Ger. Humble-bee Satyrion with green wings. Solo sicco & glareoso; with the following.
Orchis anthropophora oreades Col. anthropophora oreades foemina Park. flore nudi hominis effigiem repraesentans C. B. Man-Orchis with a ferrugineous and sometimes a green flower. Found by Mr. Dale in an old gravel-pit at Balington near Sudbury, and in the borders of some cornfields at Belchamp-S. Paul towards Ovington in this County.
S. Peucedanum vulgare. Common Hoggs-Fennel. In a wood belonging to Walton at the Nase in Tendring-hundred.
Plantago aquatica minor stellata Ger. emac. aquatica minor muricata, Park. Damasonium stellatum Dalechampii J. B. Plantago aquatica stellata C. B. Star-headed Water-Plantain. In a pond at Rumford towns-end towards London; and a little on this side Ilford.
Potamogiton pusillum maritimum gramineo folio. Sea Pondweed with grassy leaves. In the marsh-ditches about Maldon.
Potamogiton pusillum maritimum alterum, seminibus singulis longis pediculis insidentibus. Another grass-leav'd Sea-pondweed. In the marsh-ditches beside the way leading from Maldon to Goldhanger.
Thlaspi Dioscoridis Ger. Drabae folio Park. cum siliquis latis J. B. Treacle-mustard, Penny-cresse. I have found in plenty growing in the fields near Wormingford; as also near S. Osyth in Tendring-hundred; and in other places.
Thlaspi minus Ger. Nasturtium sylvestre Osyridis folio C. B. Park Nasturtium sylv. J. Bauhini, Thlaspi angustifolium Fuchsii J. B. Narrow-leav'd wild Cress. In maritimis: as at Heybridge near Maldon copiously.
Tithymalus platyphyllos Fuchsii, J. B. arvensis latifolius Germanicus C. B. peregrinus Clus. hist. Broad-leav'd Spurge. Among corn, but more rarely. It grows spontaneously in mine own Orchard here at Black-Notly, coming up yearly of its own sowing; for it is an annual plant.
Tilia folio minore J. B. foemina folio minore C. B. foemina minor Park. The small smooth-leav'd Lime or Linden-tree, call'd in some Countries Bast, because they make ropes of the bark of it. Hereabouts it is call'd Pry. It is frequent in the hedges, all this part of the Country over.
Trifolium stellatum glabrum Ger. emac. Trifol. Dipsaci capitulis, nonnullis, Teasel-headed Trefoil. I have observ'd it by the water-side at Lighe; and at little Holland in Tendring-hundred plentifully.
Trifolium pumilum supinum flosculis longis albis P. B. parvum album Monspessulanum cum paucis floribus J. B. album tricoccum subteraneum reticulatum Morison. subterraneum, seu folliculos sub terram condens Magnol. Bot. Monsp. Dwarf-Trefoil with long white flowers, hiding its seed under ground. In the road between Burntwood and Brookstreet plentifully.
Trifolium siliquis Ornithopodii nostras. Small Birdsfoot-Trefoil. On Sandy-banks by the Sea side at Tolesbury plentifully.
Turritis Ger. vulgatior J. B. Park. Brassica sylvestris foliis integris & hispidis C. B. Tower-mustard. On the banks by the high-way-side as you go up the hill from Lexden towards Colchester, and in the fields on each side the way.
It is to be noted, that these annual plants may some years, by some accident or other, spring up of the seed, and afterwards appear again.
To these I might add the four sorts of Male-Fern described by Mr. Goodyer in Dr Johnsons emaculated Gerard, which are all common about Black-Notley and Brain-tree, viz.
1. Filix mas non ramosa pinnulis dentatis. Great branched Male-Fern with indented leaves.
2. Filix mas non ramosa pinnulis latis densis minutim dentatis. The most common Male-Fern.
3. Filix mas non ramosa, pinnulis angustis, raris, profundè dentatis. Male-Fern with thin-set deeply-indented leaves. There is a good figure of a leaf of this in Dr. Plukenet's Phytograph. part 3. Tab. 180.
4. Filix mas non ramosa pinnulis latis auriculatis spinosis. Prickly Male-Fern with auriculate leaves.
If you look upon these plants in their several growths and ages, you may (as Mr. Goodyer saith well) make many more sorts of them: which I am afraid hath been the occasion of describing more sorts than indeed there are in nature.
Eryngium marinum Ger. Park. J. B. Dod. Ad. Lob. cui & Acanos Plinii. Maritimum & Gesn. hort. C. B. Sea-Holly or Eringo. This, being a plant common enough on sandy shores, I should not have mentioned, but that Colchester is noted for the first inventing or practising the candying or conditing of its roots; the manner whereof may be seen in Gerard's Herbal.
Hieracium latifolium Pannonicum primum Clus. Synonyma vide in Catal. Cantab. Broad-leav'd Hungarian Hawkweed. On Bartlow hills not far from Linton in Cambridgeshire.
Gnaphalium parvum ramosissimum, foliis angustissimis polyspermon. Hist. nost. Small-branch'd narrow leav'd Cudweed, full of seed. Found by Mr. Dale among corn in sandy grounds, about Castle-Heveningham plentifully.
Per [...]oliata vulgaris Ger. Park. vulgatissima seu arvensis C. B. simpliciter dicta, vulgaris annua J. B. Common Thorow wax. Among the Corn at Notley and elsewhere.
Tormentilla reptans alata D. Plot. Hist. nat. Oxon. Pentaphyllum minus viride, flore aureo tetrapetalo, radiculas è geniculis in terram demittens Moris. hist. Creeping Tormentill with deeply-indented leaves. In some pastures at Braintree.
Salix folio Amygdalino utrinque aurito, corticem sponte exuens. Almond-leav'd Willow, that casts its bark. In an Osier-holt near my dwelling at Black Notley.
Sonchus arborescens alter Ger. emac. laevis palustris altissimus Clus. The greatest Marsh-tree Sowthistle. On the banks of the river Thames near Blackwall.
Viola Martia hirsuta major inodora Morison. Viola Trachelii folio D. Merret. Great rough Violet without scent.
Ribes nigrum vulgò dictum folio olente J. B. Black Currans or Squinancy-berries. By Braintree river side near the bridge called the Hoppet-bridge.
ICENI.
THE Country next to the Trinobantes, call'd afterwards East-Anglia, and comprehending the Counties of Suffolk, Norfolk, Cambridge, and Huntingdon; was formerly inhabited by the Iceni, miscall'd in other Copies Tigeni, and by Ptolemy more corruptly Simeni. I have been a long time of the opinion, that by a mangling of the name, the very same people were call'd in Caesar Cenimagni. To which I was induc'd, as by the close affinity of the names Iceni and Cenimagni, so by comparing Caesar and Tacitus together. For the latter tells us, that the Cenimagni surrender'd themselves to the Romans: now that the Iceni did the same, Tacitus informs us in these words, On their own accord they came over to our side. But what is of greatest moment in this matter, a Manuscript divides the word Cenimagni, and reads it Ceni, Agni; for which I would willingly put Iceni, Regni, if it might be done without the charge of rashness. Thus much is certain, that you'l never find the Cenimagni in any other part of Britain, if you make them a distinct People from the Regni and Iceni. However, of the name Iceni there are several remains in these parts; such as Ikensworth, Ikenthorpe, Ikborrow, Iken, Iksning, Ichlingham, Eike, &c. And that Consular way which led from thence, constantly call'd by the Chorographers of the last Age, Ichenild-streat, Ichenild-streat. as if one should say, the street of the Iceni. What the original of the name should be, as God shall help me, I dare not so much as guess, unless one should derive it from the wedgy figure of the County, and refer to its lying upon the Ocean in form of a wedge. For the Britains in their language call a wedge, Iken; from which figure a place in Wales by the lake Lhintegid, is call'd Lhan-yken; and in the same sense a little tract in Spain, is nam'd Sphen, Sphen. i.e. a wedge (as Strabo observes,) which yet does not so well answer the figure of a wedge as this of ours.
This People (as Tacitus says) was stout and valiant, and after they had thrown themselves under the Protection of the Romans, suffer'd nothing by war till the time of Claudius. But then, when Ostorius the Propraetor begun to to fortifie the Passes with Castles, and to disarm the Britains, they got into a body and made an insurrection: the effect whereof was this; The Romans broke thorow the Works within which they had fortify'd themselves, and so they were suppress'd with great loss. In this engagement there hapn'd both many and those memorable exploits; and M. Ostorius, the Lieutenant's son, had the honour to save a citizen. That war being thus ended, scarce 13 years after there rises a new Storm upon this bottom. Prasutagus, Prasutagus. King of the Iceni, (that he might effectually secure his People, though he purchas'd it with his own private damage) made the Emperour Nero his heir; taking it for granted (to express my self in Tacitus's words) that by this piece of complaisance his kingdom and family would be out of danger. But the issue was quite contrary; for his kingdom was wasted by the Centurions, and his house by slaves, as if both had been taken by force of arms.
Upon this occasion, first his wife Boodicia, Boodicia. otherwise call'd Bunduica, was whipt, and her daughters ravisht. And as if they had had that whole Country bestow'd upon them, there was never a leading man among the Iceni, but was kickt out of the inheritance of his Ancestors; and even the Royal family was treated no better than slaves. Upon this ill usage, and the apprehensions of worse (since they were now reduc'd into the form of a Province,) they take up arms, and inviting the Trinobantes, with such others as were not yet inur'd to slavery, to joyn with them in the rebellion, attempt the recovery of their Liberties by this secret combination: urg'd on principally by a mortal hatred against the Veterans1. From this beginning there broke out a most terrible war; and it was farther heighten'd by the avarice of Seneca, who about that time exacted with the highest oppressionQuadringenties festertiûm. three hundred thousand pound,Seneca's usury in Britain. which he had scrap'd together by most unjust usury. In this war, to give you the whole in short, that Boodicia (whom Gildas seems to term a Treacherous Lioness) wife of Prasutagus, slew eighty thousand of the Romans and their Allies, ras'd the Colony of Camalodunum, and theMunicipium. free-town of Verulamium, routed the ninth Legion, and put to flight Catus Decianus the Procurator: but at last being defeated by Paulinus Suetonius in a set battel, she ended her days with a great deal of resolution, by a dose of poyson (as Tacitus will have it;) but according to Dio,Dio. after a fit of sickness. When this war was on foot, Xiphilin tells us from Dio, that the Britains principally worship'd the Goddess Victory under the name of Andates (whom a Greek Copy in another place calls Andraste, Andates, or Andrastes. The Goddess Victory.) and that in the groves consecrated to her they offer'd the Captives with the highest inhumanity. But yet the Britains at this day do not express Victory by any such name; nor do I know what it should mean, unless, as the Latins had their Victoria, à vincendo, from conquering; the Sabines, their Vacuna, ab evacuando, from emptying; and the Greeks their [...], from refusing to give ground; so the Britains might have their Anarhaith from overthrowing, for by that word they express a fatal overthrow. But this by the by. From this time no Author has one syllable of the Iceni, nor can we infer any thing about them from History, but that the Romans, in the decline of their Empire, set a new Officer to guard their sea-coast, and that of some other parts, against the piracies of the Saxons,In Kent. and stil'd him Count of the Saxon-shore in Britain, as we observ'd before [a].
But after the Saxons had settl [...]d their Heptarchy in the Island, this Province fell to the kingdom of the East-Angles; which from its Easterly situation they call'd in their own language Eastangle-ryc, East-Angle i.e. the kingdom of East-England. The first King it had was Uffa, and from him his successors were for a long time term'd Uff-kines, Uff-kines. who seem to have sometimes held under the Kings of the Mercians, and sometimes under those of Kent. That line failing in St. Edmund, the Danes over-ran the Countrey, and for 50 years together harrass'd it with all the cruelties of war; till at last Edward the elder got the better of them, and added it to his own kingdom of the West-Saxons. From that time it had itsPraesides. Ralph, Governour of the East-Angles. Deputy Governours; which honour, about the coming in of the Normans, was bore by one Ralph, born in Little Britain in France. He was a man of treacherous principles, getting together great numbers, and under pretence of celebrating his marriage, enter'd into a villanous conspiracy against William the Conquerour. But where so many were privy to it, 'twas in vain to hope for secresie and fidelity. So, the whole matter was discover'd, himself was depriv'd of his honour and attainted, and others were beheaded. But a more particular account of those matters belong to Historians: let us prosecute our design and fall about the Places. What sort of Country this was, learn from Abbo Floriacensis, who flourish'd in the year of Christ 970. and has thus describ'd it:In the life of St. Edmund. This part which is call'd Eastangle, as upon other accounts it is very noble, so particularly, because of it's being water'd on all sides. On the South-east and East it is encompast by the Ocean, on the north by the moisture of large and wet fens, which arising almost in the heart of the Island, because of the evenness of the ground, for a hundred miles and more descend in great rivers into the sea. On the west the Province is joyn'd to the rest of the Island, and therefore may be enter'd [by land;] but lest it should be tormented with the frequent incursions of the enemy, it is fortify'd with an Rech diche, or Divel's-dike. earthen rampire like a high wall, and with a ditch. The inner parts of it is a pretty rich soil, made exceeding pleasant by gardens and groves, render'd agreeable by it's convenience for hunting, famous for pasturage, and abounding with sheep and all sorts of cattle. I do not insist [Page] upon it's rivers full of Fish, considering that a tongue (as it were) of the sea it self licks it on one side; and on the other, the large fens make a prodigious number of lakes two or three miles over. These fens accommodate great numbers of Monks with their desir'd retirement and solitude; with which being enclos'd, they have no occasion for the privacy of a Wilderness. Thus far Abbo.
SOƲTH-FOLK or SƲFFOLK.
SUFFOLK, (which is first to be spoken to) in Saxon Suð-folc, i.e. a southerly people, with respect to Norfolk; has on the west, Cambridgeshire; on the south, the river Stour, which divides it from Essex; on the east, the German Ocean; and on the north, two little rivers, Ouse the least, and Waveney. These two flowing as it were out of the same fountain, run contrary ways, and divide it from Norfolk. 'Tis a country pretty large, and well stor'd with havens; the soil (except to the west) is very fat, as being a compound of clay and marle. By this means, the fields are everywhere fruitful, and the pastures exceeding good for fatting cattel: they make also vast numbers of Cheese, Cheese. which, to the great advantage of the inhabitants, are bought up through all England; nay, in Germany also, with France and Spain, as Pantaleon Medicus has told us, who scruples not to set them against those of Placentia both in colour and taste. But he was not one of Apicius's nice-palated scholars. Nor do they want woods and parks; of the latter, several are joyn'd to Noblemen's houses, and well-stock'd with Deer.
The County, according to it's political Division, is branch'd into three parts: the first is call'd the Geldable, because it pays geld or tribute; the second, the Liberty of S. Edmund, because it belong'd to his Monastery; the third, the Liberty of S. Etheldred, because it belong'd to Ely-Monastery; to which our Kings formerly granted several parcels of ground with Sach and Soch (as the Ely-book expresses it) without any reserve either of ecclesiastical or secular jurisdiction [b]. But now let us take a survey of the particulars; and beginning at the west, give an account of it's more noted places.
On the west, where it joyns Cambridgeshire, and in the very limit, lies Ixning, a place formerly of more note than 'tis at present. For it was made eminent by the death of Etheldred the Virgin (daughter of K. Anna) who was canoniz'd; then by the conspiracy of Ralph Earl of the East-Angles against William the Conquerour, and by the way which Harvey, first Bishop of Ely, made between this place and Ely. But now it goes to decay by the nearness of Newmarket, Newmarket. whither all commodities are carried in great abundance. That this town is of late date, the name it self witnesses: it is so situated, that the south part of it belongs to Cambridgeshire, and the north to Suffolk; each whereof has a small Church of it's own, the latter belonging to Ixning, and the former to Ditton or Dichton, as the Mother-Churches. I have met with nothing about it in my reading, but that under Hen. 3. Robert de Insula or L'isle gave one half of it to Richard de Argenton (from whom the Alingtons are descended) in Frank-marriage with his daughter Cassandra [c].
All round hereabouts is a large plain, call'd from the town Newmarket-heath, Newmarket heath. the soil whereof is sandy and barren, but the surface green. Along this runs that wonderful Ditch, which the vulgar (as if it had been drawn by the Devil) call Devil's-dike; Devil's-dike. whereas 'tis plain it was one of those wherewith as (Abbo informs us) the inhabitants fenc'd themselves against the incursions of the enemy. But of this we will speak more at large when we come to Cambridgeshire. Only, here let the Reader take notice of thus much, that the least of all these Fosses or Ditches is to be seen within two miles of this place, between Snail-well and Moulton.
More inward is the famous S. Edmundsbury, S. Edmu [...] bury. call'd in the Saxon age Bederics-gueord, and in the British (as it should seem) Villa Faustini, Villa Faustini. which is mention'd by Antoninus. For that was the opinion of Talbot a very good Antiquary, and particularly acquainted with this part of England. The distance too in Antoninus, both from Iciani and Colonia hit well enough; and as Villa among the Latins imply'd the house of a Nobleman within his own grounds, so did gueord among the Saxons.Gueord or weor [...]. For the abovemention'd Abbo interprets Bederics gueord by Bederici cortis, or villa, i.e. Bederick's court, or his ville or farm. Besides, the Saxons seem to have translated the meaning of the word into their own language: for as Faustinus in the Latin implies Prosperity, so does Bederic in the German, as that excellent Scholar Hadrianus Junius has observ'd, when he interprets the name of Betorix, who according to Strabo, was the son of Melo Sicamber, full of happiness and favour. But if these two be different, I frankly confess my self ignorant, either who that Faustinus or this Bedericus was. One thing I am sure of, that this was not the Faustini Villa describ'd by Martial in the 3d book of his Epigrams.Beric [...] [...] Brit [...]. And if I should say that it was the Ville of that Bericus, who (as Dio observes) was driven out of Britain, and perswaded Claudius the Emperour to make war upon the inhabitants; I should not believe my self. But whether this place was the Villa Faustini or not, it seems to have been very eminent, since at the first planting of Christianity in those parts, King Sigebert built a Religious house here; and Abbo calls it a Royal Village. But when the body of the most Christian King Edmund (whom the Danes had barbarously rack'd and tortur'd to death) was translated hither, and a large Church with a wonderful cover of wood built in honour of him; it began to be call'd S. Edmundsbury, and for shortness Bury; and flourish'd exceedingly. But most of all, after King Canutus (to expiate the sacrilegious violence done to this Church by his father Sweno 2) built it anew, very much enrich'd it, offer'd his own Crown to the Holy Martyr, brought in the Monks with their Abbot, bestow'd upon it many fair lands, and amongst others this town entire. Whereupon the Monks presided here, and administred Justice by their Steward. For this reason, Joscelin a de Branklond, Monk of the place, says: The men as well without the burrough as within, are ours, &c. and all within the Banna Leuca enjoy the same liberty. Afterwards,b Hervey an Abbot of Norman descent, encompass'd it with a wall, some remains whereof are still to be seen3. The Popes of Rome granted it very large Immunities; and amongst other things, That this place should not be in any thing subject to the Bishop, Malme [...]bury. but in lawful cases should obey the Archbishop. c Which is observ'd to this day. And now the Monks abounding with wealth, built a stately new Church, which they continually augmented with new additions. In the reign of Ed. 1. in laying the foundation of a new Chapel, there were found (as Eversden Eversden. Monk of the place has told us) the walls of an old round Church, so built as that the Altar has been about the middle; and we are of opinion (so he adds) that 'tis the very same which was built at first Ad op [...] to the service of S. Edmund. But what sort of town this is, and how large the Monastery [Page]
[Page] [Page 369-370] was while it stood, learn of Leland, who was an eye-witness. A city more neatly seated the sun never saw, it hangs so curiously upon a gentle descent, with a little river upon the east-side; nor a Monastery more great and stately, whether one consider the endowments, largeness, or unparallel'd magnificence. One might think even the Monastery it self were a City; so many gates has it (some whereof are of brass,) so many towers, and a Church than which nothing can be more magnificent: as appendages to which there are d [...]ow but two. (So Camden.) three more of admirable beauty and workmanship in the same Churchyard. If one enquires after the extent of it's wealth, it would be a hard matter to give an account of the value of those gifts which were hung up at the single tomb of St. Edmund; beside the revenues and land-rents to one thousand five hundred and sixty pound. If I should particularly reckon up the frequent quarrels between the Citizens and Monks (who by their Steward govern'd the City,) and with what eagerness they contriv'd the death and destruction of each other, the strangeness of the relation would spoil it's credit. But all this work which had been so long in growing, and all that wealth so many years in getting together4, was destroy'd and dispers'd upon the dissolution of Monasteries by Hen. 8. who was mov'd to it by a sett of men that under the specious pretence of reforming Religion, preferr'd their own private interest and profits before that of their Prince and Country, yea and even before the glory of God. Yet the very carcass of it's ancient greatness hath something of beauty, and the very ruins are splendid, which when you see, you cannot but both admire and commiserate. And (to take notice of this by the way) if England ever suffer'd by the loss of any man, 'twas in this place. For that true Father of his Country, Humfrey Duke of GlocesterH [...]mfrey Duke of Glocester. (a strict patron of Justice, and one who had improv'd his own curious natural parts with severe studies,) after he had govern'd the Kingdom under Henry 6. for 25 years together, with so great applause and commendation, that neither the good could find reason for complaints, nor the bad for calumnies; was cut off in this place by the malice of Margaret of Loraine. She, observing her husband King Henry 6. to be of a little and narrow soul, fell about this villanous contrivance to get the management of the government into her own hands. But in the issue, 'twas the greatest misfortune could have befell either her or the kingdom. For Normandy and Aquitain were presently lost upon it, and a most lamentable Civil war rais'd in England.
Near this S. Edmundsbury, we see Rushbrok, the seat of the famous and Knightly family of the Jermins; and at a little distance from thence, Ikesworth, Ikesworth. where was an old Priory founded by Gilbert Blund, B [...]und. a person of great Nobility, and Lord of Ikesworth: his issuemale in a right line fail'd in William, slain in Hen. 3.'s time at the battel of Lewes, who left his two sisters, Agnes wife of William de Creketot, and Roisia of Robert de Valoniis, his heirs [d]5.
More to the north, is Fernham Fernham. S. Genovefae, memorable upon this account, that Richard Lucy Lord Chief Justice of England, 1173 did here engage Robert Earl of Leicester in a pitch'd battel, and slew above ten thousand Flemings, whom he had invited over for the destruction of his Country. In this neighbourhood I observ'd two very neat seats: the one built by the Kitsons Knights, at Hengrave, Hengrave. formerly the possession of Edmund de Hengrave a famous Lawyer under Edward 1.; and the other of late at Culfurth, C [...]lfurth. by Sir Nicholas Bacon N Bacon. Kt. son of that Nicholas Bacon Keeper of the Great Seal of England, who for his singular prudence and solid judgment, was whilst he liv'd, deservedly accountedAltera è cestinis. one of the two Supporters of this Kingdom. Not far from hence is Lidgate Lidgate. a small village, but not to be omitted, because it gave birth to John Lidgate John Lidgate. the Monk, whose Wit seems to have been form'd and modell'd by the very Muses; all the beauties and elegancies are so lively express'd in his English Poetry. And these are the places of note on the west-side of Suffolk.
On the south, I saw the river Stour, immediately after it's rise, enlarge it's self into a great Fen call d Stourmere; but presently gathering it's waters within the banks, it runs first by Clare, a noble village, which beside it's demolish'd Castle, has given the name of Clare Stoke Clare. to a very honourable family, descended from Gislebert a Norman Earl; and the title of Duke to Leonel son of Edward 3. who having marry'd into this family, had the title of Duke of Clarence bestow'd upon him by his father. For from this place he was call'd Duke of Clarence 6 (as formerly the posterity of Gislebert were stil'd Earls of Clare) and dying atAlba Pompeia. Longuevill in Italy after he had took for his second wife the daughter of Galeacius Viscount of Milan, lies bury'd here in the Collegiate Church; as does also Joanna de Acres daughter of Edw. 1. wife to Gilbert, the second de Clare that was Earl of Glocester. 'Tis possible the Reader may expect, that I should here give an account of the Earls of Clare Earls of Clare. and Dukes of Clarence, considering they have always made an honourable figure in this kingdom; and I will do it in short, for fear any one should seek it in vain. Richard, son of Gislebert Earl ofAucensi [...]. Ewe in Normandy,Augy. was a soldier under William [the Conquerour] when he came over into England, by whom he had the villages of Clare and Tunbridge bestow'd upon him. He had four sons, Gislebert, Roger, Walter, and Robert, from whom the Fitz-Walters are descended. Gislebert, Guil. Gemeric. l. 7. c. 37. by the daughter of the Earl of Clermont had Richard, who succeeded him; Gislebert, from whom was descended the famous Richard Earl of Pembroke and Conquerour of Ireland; and Walter. Richard the eldest being slain by the Welsh, left two sons,Rob. Montensis. Gilbert and Roger. Gilbert under King Stephen was Earl of Hertford; notwithstanding which, both he and his successors, from this their chief seat, were commonly stil'd, and wrote themselves de Clare. He dying without issue, was succeeded by his brother Roger, whose son Richard marry'd Amicia daughter and coheir of William Earl of Glocester; and in right of her, his posterity were Earls of Glocester, whom you may find in their proper place. But at last, upon default of heir-male, Leonel third son of Edw. 3. (who had marry'd Elizabeth daughter and sole heir of William de Burgo Earl of Ulster, by Elizabeth Clare) was honour'd by his father with the new title of Duke of Clarence. But he having only a daughter, call'd Philippa, wife of Edmund Mortimer Earl of March; King Henry 4. created his younger son Thomas Duke of Clarence,Dukes of Clarence. who was Governour of Normandy7, and in the assaults of the Scots and French was slain in Anjou, leaving no issue behind him. A considerable time after, Edward 4. conferr'd this honour upon George his brother, 1421 whom after bitter quarrels and a most inveterate hatred between them, he had receiv'd into favour: yet for all that he at length dispatch'd him in prison, ordering him to be drown'd (as the report commonly goes)In dolio vini Cretici. in a butt of Malmesey. And thus 'tis planted in the nature of man, to hate those they fear and those with whom they have had quarrels for life, even tho' they be brethren [e].
From Clare the Stour runs by Long-Melford, a beautiful Hospital lately built by that excellent person Sir William Cordall Knight, Master of the Rolls; to Sudbury, Sudbury. i.e. the Southern burrough, which it almost encompasses. The common opinion is,e that this was once the chief town of the County, and that it had the name given it with respect to Norwich, i.e. [Page 371-372] the northern village. And indeed, at this day it has no reason to give place to it's neighbours. For 'tis populous, and thrives exceedingly by the Cloth-trade: it's chief Magistrate also is a Mayor, who is annually chosen out of the seven Aldermen. Not far from hence is Edwardeston, Edwardeston. a place of no great repute at present, but had formerly Lords and inhabitants of great honour, call'd de Monte Canisio, and commonly Mont-chensy. Barons de Montchensy Of which family, Guarin marry'd the daughter and co-heir of that most powerful Earl of Pembroke William Marshal, and had by her a daughter Joanna, who brought to her husband William de Valentia of the family of Lusigny in France,Minor. Hist. Matth. Par. the title of Earl of Pembroke. That Guarin Mont-chensy, as he had great honours, so likewise had he a very plentiful fortune; insomuch that in those times he was call'd the Crassus of England, his Will amounting to no less than two hundred thousand marks [f]8. A few miles from hence, the Stour is encreas'd by the little river Breton, which within a small compass washes two towns of Antiquity. At the head of it we see Bretenham, a little inconsiderable town, without almost any appearance of a City: and yet that it is the Combretonium, Combretonium. mention'd by Antoninus in those parts, is evident both from the affinity and signification of the name. For as Bretenham Bretenham. in English implies a town or mansion upon the Breton; so does Combretonium in Welsh, a valley or low place upon the Breton. But this place in the Peutegerian Tables is falsly call'd Comvetronum and Ad Covecin. A little way from hence to the east, is seen Nettlested, 9 from whence are the Wentworths, Ba [...]ons Wentworth whom King Henry the eighth honour'd with the dignity of Barons: and neighbour to it is Offton, i.e. the town of Offa King of the Mercians; where, upon a chalky hill there lye the ruins of an old Castle, which they tell you was built by King Offa, after he had villanously cut off Ethelbert King of the East-Angles, and seiz'd upon his kingdom10. Below this is Hadley, in Saxon headlege, famous at this day for making of woollen Cloaths, but mention'd by our ancient Historians upon the account of Guthrum or Gormo the Dane'sGuthrum, or Gormo the Dane. being buried here. For when Alfred had brought him to such terms as to make him embrace Christianity, and be baptiz'd, he assign'd him this tract of the East-Angles, that he might (to use the words of myg Author) by a due Allegiance to the King, protect those Countries he had before over-run with ravage and plunder.
From hence the Breton runs11 into the Stour, whose united streams flowing not far from Bentley, Bentley. where the Talmaches, a famous and ancient family, have a long time flourisht; within a few miles run near Arwerton, Arwerton. formerly the seat of the famous family of the Bacons 12; now of the Parkers, who by the father's side are descended from the Barons Morley, and by the mother from the Calthrops, a very eminent family. Then they flow into the Ocean; and the river Orwell or Gipping, joyning them just at the mouth, discharges it self along with them. This rises about the very middle of the County, out of two Springs, one near Wulpett, Wulpett. the other at a little village call'd Gipping. Wulpett is a Market-town, and signifies in Latin Luporum fossa, i.e. a den of Wolves, if we believe Neubrigensis, who has patcht up as formal a story about this place, as is theVera narratio. True Narrative of Lucian. Namely, how two little green boys,Ex Satyrorum genere. born of Satyrs, after a long tedious wandering through subterraneous Caverns from another world, i.e. the Antipodes, and the Land of St. Martin, came up here. If you would have more particulars of the story, I refer you to the Author himselfOmnibus rihonibus ridenda pr [...]pinabit., who (as one expresses it) will make you split your sides with laughing. I know not whether I should here take notice, into what vain groundless hopes of finding gold at Norton Norton. hard by, King Henry the eighth was drawn by an itching credulous Avarice. But the diggings speak for me. Between the Gipping and Wulpett, upon a high hill, are the remains of an old Castle call'd Hawghlee, in compass about two acres. Some will have this to have been call'd Hagoneth-Castle, H [...]g [...]e [...]h. which belong'd to Ralph de Broc, and was in the year 1173. taken and demolisht by Robert Earl of Leicester13.
Upon the same river, are seen Stow and Needham, small Market-towns; and not far from the bank, Hemingston, wherein Baldwin le Pettour (observe the name) held Lands by Serjeanty (thus an ancient Book expresses it) for which he was oblig'd every Christmas-day to perform before our Lord the King of England, A merry Tenure one Saltus, one Suffletus, and one Bumbulus; or as 'tis read in another place, he held it by a Saltus, a Sufflus, and Pettus: that is (if I apprehend it aright) he was to dance, make a noise with his cheeks puff'd out, and to let a fart. Such was the plain jolly mirth of those times. 'Tis also observ'd, that the Manour of Langhall belong'd to this Fee. Nearer the mouth, I saw Ipswich, Ipsw [...] formerly Gippewich, a little City lowly seated, and as it were the eye of this County. It has a pretty commodious harbour, has been fortify'd with a ditch and rampire, has a great trade, and is very populous; being adorn'd with fourteen Churches, and large stately private buildings [g]. I pass by the four Religious Houses now demolisht, and the magnificent College begun by Cardinal Wolsey, a butcher's son, and born in this place; whose vast thoughts were always took up with extravagant projects. The Body Politick of it (as I have been told) consists of 12 Burgesses (whom they call Portmen,) and out of them two Bailiffs are annually chosen for their chief Magistrates, and as many Justices out of 24 more. As to its Antiquity, so far as my observation has carry'd me, we hear nothing of its name before the Danish Invasion, which it felt sufficiently. In the year of our Lord 991. the Danes plunder'd this place, and all along the sea-coast, with so much cruelty and barbarity, that Siricius Archbishop of Canterbury, and the Nobility of England, thought it most advisable to purchase a Peace of them for ten thousand pound. But for all that, before nine years were at an end, they plunder'd this town a second time: whereupon the English presently engaged them with a great deal of resolution; but (as Henry of Huntingdon has it) by the cowardly fear of one single man Turkil, our men were put to flight, and the victory as it were dropt out of our hands. Thus, small accidents give a strange turn in the affairs of war. In Edward the Confessor's reign (as we find it in Domesday-book) Queen Edeva had two parts of this town, and Earl Guert a third; and there were in it 800 Burgesses that paid Custom to the King. But when the Normans had possess'd themselves of England, they built here a Castle; which Hugh Bigod held for some time against Stephen the usurping King of England; but at last surrender'd it. Now 'tis so entirely gone to decay, that there is not so much as the rubbish left. Some are of opinion that it stood in the adjoyning parish of Westfeld, where appear the remains [...]f a Castle; and tell you, that was the site of old Gippwic. I fancy it was demolisht, when Henry the second levell'd Waleton, Walet [...]. a neighbouring Castle, with the ground. For this was a harbour for the Rebels, and here the three thousand Flemings landed, who were invited over by the Nobility to assist them against him, when he had fell upon that unlucky design of making his son Henry an equal sharer with him in the Government; and when the young man, who knew not how to stay at the top without running headlong, out of a mad restless desire of reigning declar'd a most unnatural war against his own father. Though these Castles are now quite gone, yet the shore is very well defended [Page 373-374] by a vast ridge (they call it Langerston Langerston.) which for about two miles, as one observes, lays all along out of the Sea, not without great danger and terrour to Mariners. 'Tis however of use to the Fishermen for drying of their fish; and does in a manner fence the spacious harbour Orwell. And thus much of the south part of this County.
From hence a crooked shore (for all this Eastern part lyes upon the Sea) running northward, presently opens it self to the little riverO [...]hers cal [...] it [...]a [...]g. Deben. It rises near Mendlesham, to which the Lord of the place H. Fitz-Otho, or the son of Otho [...]lp [...]oi [...] [...]. the Mint-master, procur'd the privilege of a Market and Fair of Edward the first. By his heirs a considerable estate came to the Boutetorts B [...]ut [...]tort. Lords of Wily in Worcestershire; and from them afterwards, in the reign of Richard the scond, to Frevil, 14 Burnel, and others. From hence the river Deben continues its course, and gives name to Debenham a small Market-town (which others will have call'd more rightly Depenham) because the soil being moist and clayie, the roads all round about it are deep and troublesome. From thence it runs by Ufford, formerly the seat of Robert de Ufford Earl of Suffolk, and on the opposite bank is Rendilis-ham, Rendilis-ham. i.e. as Bede interprets it, the home or mansion of Rendilus, where Redwald King of the East-Angles commonly kept his Court. He was the first of all that People that was baptiz'd and receiv'd Christianity; but afterwards, seduc'd by his wife, he had (as Bede expresses it) in the self same Church, one Altar for the Religion of Christ, and another for the Sacrifices to Devils. Suidhelmus also, King of the East-Angles, was afterwards baptiz'd in this place by Cedda the Bishop.
From hence the river Deben runs on to Woodbridge, a little town beautify'd with neat buildings, where at certain set times is the Meeting for the Liberty of S. Etheldred; and after the course of a few miles is receiv'd by the Sea at Bawdsey-haven.
Then the shore steals on by little and little towards the East,By others c [...]'d Winc [...]. to the mouth of the river Ore, which runs by Framlingham, F [...]amlingham. formerly a Castle of the Bigods 15, and presently upon the west side of it spreads it self into a sort of Lake. This is a very beautiful Castle, fortify'd with a rampire, a ditch, and a wall of great thickness with thirteen towers: within, it has very convenient Lodgings. From this place it was, that in the year of our Lord 1173. when the rebellious son of King Henry the second took up Arms against his father, Robert Earl of Leicester with his Stipendiaries from Flanders, harrass'd the Country all round. And here also it was, that in the year 1553. Queen Mary enter'd upon the government, notwithstanding the violent opposition of Dudley Earl of Northumberland against King Henry the eight's daughters. The river goes next to Parrham, Parrham. a little town, whose Lord William Willoughby Barons Will [...]ug [...]by of Parrham. had the dignity of a Baron conferr'd upon him by King Edward the sixth: and from thence running by Glemham, which has given name to an ancient and famous family16, to Oreford Oreford. that takes its name from it, it falls into the Sea. This was once a large and populous town, fortify'd with a Castle of reddish stone, which formerly belong'd to the Valoinies, and afterward to the Willoughbeys. But now it complains of the Sea's ingratitude, which withdraws it self by little and little, and begins to envy it the advantage of a harbour. And this is all I have to say of Oreford, unless you please to run over this short passage of Ralph de Coggeshall, an ancient Writer. In the time of Henry the first, when Bartholomew de Glanvile was Governour of the Castle of Oreford, some fishermen hapen'd to catch a wild man in their nets. All the parts of his body resembl'd those of a man; he had hair on his head, a long Pineatam. picked beard, and about the breast was exceeding hairy and rough. But at length he made his escape privately into the Sea, and was never seen more. So that what the common People affirm, may be very true, Whatever is produc'd in any part of nature, is in the sea; and not at all fabulous what Pliny has wrote about the Triton on the coasts of Portugal,Tritons and Sea-monsters. and the Sea-man in the Straits of Gibralter.
Not much higher, in a safe and pleasant situation, within the Vale of Slaughden, where the Sea beats upon it on the east, and the River on the west, lyes Aldburgh, Aldburgh. which signifies an ancient Burrough, or as others will have it, a burrough upon the river Ald. 'Tis a harbour very commodious for mariners and fishermen, by which means the place is populous, and is much favour'd by the Sea, which is a little unkind to other towns upon this coast. Hard by, when in the year 1555. all the corn throughout England was choakt in the ear by unseasonable weather; the inhabitants tell you, that in the beginning of Autumn there grew Pease miraculously among the rocks,Pease growing out of the rocks. without any earth about them, and that they reliev'd the dearth [in those parts.] But the more thinking people affirm, that Pulse cast upon the shore by shipwrack,h us'd to grow there now and then; and so quite exclude the miracle. But that such as these grew every year among the pebbles on the coasts of Kent, we have observ'd before.
From hence keeping along the shore, at ten miles distance we meet with Dunwich, Dunwich. in Saxon Dunmoc, mention'd by Bede. Here it was that Foelix the Burgundian, who reduc'd the East-Angles (then falling from the Faith) to Christianity, fixt an Episcopal Seat in the year 630. and his Successors for many years presided over the whole kingdom of the East-Angles. But Bisus, the fourth from Foelix, when by reason of old age and a broken constitution, he found himself altogether unable to manage so large a Province, divided it into two Sees. One he kept in this place, and fixt the other at a little town call'd North-Elmham. In the reign of William the first, it had 236 Burgesses and 100 Poor: it was valued at fifty pound, and sixty thousand Allectum for halecum. herrings by gift. So we read in Domesday-book. In the last age it was very populous, and famous for a Mint; and in the reign of Henry the second, it was (as William of Newburrow has told us) a famous village, well stor'd with riches of all sorts. At which time, when the peace of England was disturb'd with fresh commotions, it was fortify'd on purpose, to awe Robert Earl of Leicester, who over-run all those parts far and near. But now by a private pique of Nature (which has set no fixt bounds to the incursions of the Sea) the greatest part of it is swept away by the violence of the waves; and the Bishops having many years ago transferr'd their Seat to another place, it lyes now in solitude and desolation [h]. A little higher, the river Blith unloads it self into the Sea; upon whose bank I saw a little town call'd Blithborow, Blithborrow. memorable only for the burying place of the Christian King Anna, whom Penda the Mercian slew in a pitcht battel. The Church was made eminent for a College of Prebendaries by Henry the first, who granted it to the Canons of St. Osith. It has a Market by the favour of John Lord Clavering, to whom King Edward the second granted this Privilege along with a Fair. He was possess'd of a very large estate in those parts;Regist. Monast. de Sibton. as descended from the daughter and heir of William de Cassineto or Cheney, who held the Barony of Horsford in the County of Norfolk, and built a small Monastery at Sibton [i].
Here the Promontory Easton-nesse Easton-nesse. shoots it self a great way into the Sea Eastward,Extensio Promont. so that 'tis lookt upon to be the farthest east of any part of Britain. By Ptolemy it is call'd [...], or Extensio, extension: and to put it beyond all doubt, that this is the same with our Easton, know that Eysteney is the same in British that [...] is in the Greek, and Extensio in the Latin; though indeed this name might as probably be deriv'd from our own language, because of the easterly situation of the place17. In the south part of this Promontory, Southwold lyes in a plain low and open, expos'd to the Sea; which the convenience of the harbour, made by the river Blith's unlading it self [Page 375-376] there, has render'd a pretty populous town. At high water, it is so encompast with the Sea, that you'd take it for an Island, and wonder that 'tis not all overflow'd. Which brings to my mind that passage of Cicero;Lib. 3. De Nat. Deor. What shall we say of the Tides in Spain and Britain, and their ebbing and flowing at set times? without a God they cannot be, who hath set bounds to the sea. More inward, wee see Wingfield Wingfield. (with its half ruinated Castle) which gave both a name and seat to a large family in those parts, famous for their knighthood and ancient nobility. And Dunnington, which boasts of its Lord John Phelipps, Phelipps. the father of that William, who married the daughter and heir of Baron Bardolph and whose daughter and heir was marry'd to John Viscount Beaumont. But now 'tis the seat of the ancient family of the Rouses. Not far from hence is Huntingfield, Huntingfield. which in the reign of Edward the third, had a noted Baron of that name: and near this is Heveningham, the seat of the knightly family de Heveningham, Henningham. which is exceeding ancient: at a little distance from whence is Halesworth, Halesworth. formerly Healsworda, an ancient town of the Argentons, now of the Alingtons, for which Richard Argenton procur'd the Privilege of a Market of King Henry the third.
That on the north part two little rivers, namely, Ouse the less, and Waveney, divide this County from Norfolk, we have already observ'd. They both rise out of a marshy ground about Lophamford, very near one the other; and run quite contrary ways, with creeks full of shallow fords. On this side of the Ouse (which goes westward) there is nothing memorable [k]. Upon Waveney, which is carried eastward, first we meet with Hoxon, formerly Hegilsdon, made famous by the martyrdom of King Edmund. Martyrdom of King Edmund. For there the most Christian King, because he would not renounce Christ, was by the most inhuman Danes (to use the words of Abbo) bound to a tree, Hoxon. and had his body all over mangl'd with arrows. And they to increase the pain and torture with showers of arrows, made wound upon wound, till the darts gave place to one another. And as a middle-age Poet has sung of him:
In which place was afterwards a very neat seat of the Bishops of Norwich, till they exchang'd it not long since for the Monastery of S. Benedict. In the neighbourhood, at Brome, the family of Cornwalleys Cornwalleys. Knights, have dwelt for a long time; of which, John was Steward of the Houshold to King Edward the sixth, and Thomas his son, for his prudence and fidelity, was Privy-Councellor to Queen Mary, and Lord Controller of her Houshold. Below this is Eay, Eay. that is, the Island, so call'd because 'tis water'd on all sides; where are seen the rubbish, ruins, and the decaying walls of a Monastery dedicated to St. Peter, Book of Inquisitions. and of an old Castle which belong'd to Robert Mallet a Norman Baron. But when he was depriv'd of his dignity under Henry the first, for siding with Robert Duke of Normandy against that King, he bestow'd this Honour upon Stephen Count of Bologne; who afterwards usurping the Crown of England, left it to his son William Earl of Waren. But after he18 had lost his life in the Expedition of Tholose, the Kings kept it in their own hands, till Richard 1. gave it to Henry 5. of that name, Duke of Brabant and Lorain, with the grandchild of K. Stephen by a daughter (who had been a Nun.) A long time after, when it return'd to the Kings of England, Edward the third (as I have heard) gave it to Robert de Ufford Earl of Suffolk. Nor must we pass by Bedingfield Bedingfield. in the neighbourhood, which gave name to a famous and ancient family, that receiv'd much honour by the heir of Tudenham. From thence along by Flixton, Flixton. for Felixton, (so nam'd among many others in this County from Foelix the first Bishop) the river Waveney runs to Bungey, Bungey. and almost encompasses it. Here Hugh Bigod, when the seditious Barons put all England in an uproar, fortify'd a Castle, to the strength whereof nature very much contributed. Of which he was wont to boast, as if it were impregnable,
Notwithstanding which, he was afterwards forc'd to compound for a great sum of money and hostages, with Henry the second, to save it from being demolisht. Next, not far from the banks, we meet with Mettingham, Mettingham. where in a plain, a square Castle with a College in it, was built by the Lord of the place John, sirnam'd de Norwich, whose daughter, and afterward heir of the family, was marry'd to Robert de Ufford Earl of Suffolk, to whom she brought a fair estate.
Now the Waveney drawing nearer the Sea, while it tries in vain to break a double passage into the Ocean (the one along with the river Yare, the other through the lake Luthing) makes a pretty large Peninsula, call'd by some Lovingland, but by others more truly Luthingland; Luthingland. from that long and spatious lake Luthing, which beginning at the Sea-side, empties it self into the river Yare. At the beginning of this, Lestoffe, Lestoffe. a little town hangs (as it were) over the sea; and at the end of it is Gorlston, where I saw the tower of a small ruinated religious House, which is of some use to the Sea men. More inward, upon the Yare is Somerley, Somerley. formerly (as I was told) the seat of the Fitz-Osberts, from whom it came to the knightly and famous family of the Jerneganes. A little higher, where the Yare and Waveney joyn, there flourish'd Cnobersburg, i.e. (as Bede interprets it) the City of Cnoberus: Cnoberi Urbs. we call it at this day Burghcastell. Which as Bede has it) by the vicinity of woods and sea, was a very pleasant Castle, wherein a Monastery was built by Fursaeus the Scot. By his perswasions Sigebert was induc'd to quit the Throne, and betake himself to a Monastick life; but afterwards being drawn against his will out of this Monastery, to encourage his own men in a battel against the Mercians, he was cut offUna cum suis. with all his company. Now there is nothing in the place but broken walls, almost square, built of flints and British brick. It is quite overgrown with briars and thorns; amongst which they now and then dig up Roman coins: so that it seems to have been one of those Forts which the Romans built upon the river Garienis against the Saxon-Piracies; or rather indeed the very Garianonum, where the Stablesian horse had their station [l].
Suffolk has had Earls and DukesDukes and Earls of Suffolk. of several Families. There are some modern Authors, who tell us that the Glanvils were formerly honour'd with that title: but since they build upon no sure authority, and the mistake is obvious, nor does any thing of it appear in the publick Records of the kingdom; they must excuse me if I suspend my assent, till they convince me upon better grounds. Not but I own the family of the Glanvils to have made a very great figure in these parts. But before Edward the third's time, I could never yet find it vouch'd by good authority that any one was honour'd with the title of Earl of this County. But that King made Robert de Ufford (a person of great exploits both at home and abroad, son of Robert Steward of the King's house under Edward the second, by Cecilia de Valoniis Lady of Orford) Earl of Suffolk. To him succeeded his son William, whose four sons were snatcht away by an untimely death in his life time, and himself, just as he was a going to report the opinion of the House of Commons in Parliament, fell down dead. Robert Willoughby, Roger Lord of Scales, Inq. 5. Rich. 2. and Henry de Ferrariis of Grooby, as next heirs at Law, divided the estate.Lel. Com. in Cygnaam Cant. Wallingham. p. 35 [...]. Regist. M [...]n. de Melsa. And Richard the second advanc'd Michael de la Pole from a Merchant to this honour, and to the dignity of Lord Chancellour of England. Who (as Tho. Walsingham tells us) was better vers'd in merchandize (as a Merchant himself, and the Son of a Merchant) than in martial matters. For he was [Page 377-378] the son of William de la Pole, the first Mayor of Kingston upon Hull, See Hull, in Yorkshire. i who upon account of his great wealth had the dignity of a Banerett conferr'd upon him by Edward the third. But wanting a spirit fit to receive those crowds of prosperity, he was forc'd to quit his Country, and dy'd in banishment. However, his being a Merchant does not by any means detract from his honour: for who knows not that even our Noblemen's sons have been Merchants? Nor will I deny that he was nobly descended, though a Merchant.20 Michael his son being restor'd, had a son Michael slain in the battel of Agincourt, and William, whom Henry the sixth, from Earl of Suffolk first created Marquiss of Suffolk21, to him and the heirs male of his body; and that he and his heirs male, on the Coronation-day of the Kings of England, carry a golden Verge with a dove on the top of it; and such another Verge of Ivory at the Coronation of the Queens of England. Afterwards he advanc'd the same person for his great deserts, to the honour and title of Duke of Suffolk. And indeed he was a man truly great and eminent. For when his father and three brothers had lost their life in the service of their Country, in the French wars; he (as we read in the Parliament-Rolls of the 28th of Henry 6.) spent thirty whole years in the same war. For seventeen years together he never came home; once he was taken, while but a Knight, and paid twenty thousand poundNostrae monetae. sterling for his ransom. Fifteen years he was Privy-Councellor, and Knight of the Garter, thirty. By this means, as he gain'd the entire favour of his Prince, so did he raise the envy of the people22; and so for some slight misdemeanours, and those too not plainly prov'd upon him, he was banish'd, and in his passage over into France, was intercepted by the enemy, and beheaded. He left a son, John, who marry'd Edward the fourth's sister, and had by her John Earl of Lincoln. This Earl John being declar'd heir apparent to the Crown by Richard the third, could not suppress his ambition, but presently broke out against King Henry the seventh to his own destruction (for he was quickly cut off23 in the Civil war;) to his father's also, who dy'd of grief; and to the ruine of the whole family, which expir'd with him. For his brother Edmund, styl'd Earl of Suffolk, making his escape into Flanders, began to raise a Rebellion against King Henry the seventh, who, better satisfy'd with repentance than punishment, had pardon'd him for some heinous Crimes. But a little after, he was by Philip of Austria Duke of Burgundy (against the Laws of Hospitality, as they then worded it) deliver'd up to Henry, who solemnly promis'd him his life, but clap'd him in prison. Henry the eighth, not thinking himself oblig'd to a promise of his father's, when he had thoughts of going for France, cut him off, for fear there might be some insurrections in his absence. But Richard his younger brother, living under banishment in France, made use of the title of Duke of Suffolk; who was the last male of the family that I know of, and dy'd bravely in the thick of the enemies troops An. 1524. in the battel of Pavie, wherein Francis the first, King of France, was taken prisoner. For his singular valour, his very enemy the Duke of Bourbon bestow'd upon him a splendid Funeral,Atratús (que) inter [...]uit. and was himself one of the Mourners. Afterwards King Henry 8. conferr'd the title of Duke of Suffolk upon24 Charles Brandon, to whom he had given Mary his sister (widow of Lewis the 12th King of France) in marriage25. He was succeeded by his young son Henry, and Henry by his brother Charles; but both dying of theSudore Britannico. Sweating-sickness26 in the year 1551. Edward the sixth dignify'd Henry Grey Marquiss of Dorchester (who had marry'd Frances their sister) with that title. But he did not enjoy it long, till he was beheaded by Queen Mary for endeavouring to advance his daughter to the Throne; and was the last Duke of Suffolk. From that time the title of Suffolk lay dead, till of late King James in the first year of his reign, created Thomas Lord Howard of Walden, (second son of Thomas Howard Duke of Norfolk) Earl of Suffolk; whom, for his approv'd fidelity and valour, he had before made Lord Chamberlain.
There are in this County 575 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to SƲFFOLK.
[a] THE County of Suffolk is the first of those, possess'd formerly by the Iceni. Whether this people had another of their own name about Worcestershire and Staffordshire (asStaffordsh. c 10. sect. 2. Dr. Plot has endeavour'd to prove) is not my business to enquire in this place. I must confess, that action of the Propraetor Ostorius (which Mr. Camden mentions, as undertaken against those Iceni) seems to have been farther westward, than their bounds reach'd. For the next news we hear of their army, after they had settl'd things here, is among the Cangi (i.e. about Cheshire and Denbyshire.) Ductus in Cangos exercitus, saysAnnal. l. 12. c. 32. Tacitus: and — Jámque ventum haud procul mari, quod Hiberniam Insulam spectat.
But however that matter be, 'tis agreed on all hands, that this tract was inhabited by the Iceni; whose bounds are yet as uncertain, as is the etymology of their name. For the first, Camden includes under that denomination the Counties of Suffolk, Bounds of the Iceni. Norfolk, Cambridgeshire, and Huntingdonshire; upon what grounds. he does not say. Nor indeed can it be nicely determin'd: for how can we hope exactly to distinguish the bounds of the old British people; when all our ancient Authors, only deliver at large whereabouts such and such were seated, without ever descending to their particular limits? Besides, most of the barbarous nations seem (according to their strength at different times) to have had dominions larger or narrower; especially in Britain, where there were so many Kings, we cannot imagine but they were now and then making encroachments upon one another. All (I think) we can safely conclude upon, is, that there is scarce a possibility of the British divisions including exactly so many Counties, since the bounds of the shires were set long after their time by King Alfred, who no doubt had rather an eye to the convenience of the Kingdom, than the exact limits of the Britains.
For the original of its name;Derivatio [...] of Iceni. Mr. Camden draws it from the figure of the place (Iken, cuneus;) which might be plausible enough, if that tract of ground justify'd the conjecture. But Ptolemy's Tables, and modern observations have represented it rather under a quadrangular form. Sir Henry Spelman's opinion is much more probable, that it comes from the famous river Ise; especially if the Britains call that Ichen. For thus (says he) in Asia, the Indians come from the river [Page 379-380] Indus; in Greece, the Maeonians from Maeonia; in Scythia, the Alani from Alanus; in Germany, the Alsatians from Alsa; in France, the Sequani from Sequana. And so in England, the Derbyshire-inhabitants from Derwent; the Lancastrians from Lan or Lon; the Northumbrians from Humber; and Wiltshire from the Willy: And as for the change of (s) into (c), that may be easily justify'd, if it be true that the British for the Greek (σ) use (ch); so Ichen is pronounc'd for [...]; Soch for [...]; Buch for [...], &c.
And as the Iceni are deriv'd from Ise, Spelman's Iceni. so this, in all probability, has it's name from that famous Heathen Goddess Isis. For who knows not, that the heathens consecrated rivers, as well as woods and mountains, to their Deities, and call'd them after their names? And that Ceres and Proserpine, (otherwise call'd Isis,) two infernal Goddesses, were worshipped by the Britains, we have Strabo's Authority. Or if we had not, the accounts we have left us of their customs, would be sufficient to inform us of their worship. Upon this is grounded their preferring nights to days, as also their computations of days by nights; of months, by moons; and of years, by winters. The remains of it we keep to this day in our seven-night, i.e. seven days; and fortnight, contracted from fourteen-night, i.e. fourteen days.
After Britain came to be a branch of the Roman Empire, and was divided into five parts, 'tis not certain under which branch these Iceni were comprehended. Mr. Camden places them under the Flavia Caesariensis, which seems agreeable enough to that division; but the Notices of the Western Empire places the Britannia secunda where Ptolemy reckons up the Tribantes and Simeni; which last are, no doubt, the same with the Iceni.
[b] The present general division of Suffolk is The Franchise or Liberty of St. Edmund, and The Geldable; the first containing the Western part of the County, and the second the Eastern. And they are the more remarkable, because at the Assizes each of them furnishes out a distinct Grand-Jury.
[c] The first place we meet with is New-market, New-market. which has not grown up by any manufacture, or particular commodity; but by the convenience for Passengers, and the advantage of the Court. For the town stands in a plain very commodious for hunting and horse-races; which diversions very often draw the Court thither: and on Cambridge-side there is a house built on purpose for the reception of his Majesty.
[d] Next is Ikesworth, Ikesworth. reckon'd by our Author among those places which retain the name of the Iceni. And what the present learned Archdeacon of Canterbury has observ'd, confirms the Antiquity of the place, namely, that in his memory a large pot of Roman money has been found there. About Icklingham also much of the same is discover'd; and 'tis said, that in digging through the Devil's-ditch on New-market heath, near Ixning, they met with some ancient pieces. If they are still preserv'd, it is probable they would afford us some light who were the Authors of that vast work.Blome, p. 210. A late Author has affirm'd, that they bore the Inscriptions of divers Roman Emperours, but upon what authority I know not.
[e] Upon the edge of Essex is Clare, Clare. which since our Author's time hath given the title of Earl to Sir John Holles Lord Houghton of Houghton, advanc'd to this dignity Nov. 2. 22 Jac. 1. He was succeeded by John his son, and Gilbert his grandson, whose eldest son John, by the favour of his present Majesty, enjoys this dignity under the title of Marquess of Clare, with the additional one of Duke of Newcastle.
[f] From hence we go to Buers, Buers. the place where K. Edmund was crown'd, as Galfridus de Fontibus, a MS. in the University-Library of Cambridge, tells us. His words are these: Facta autem in illum acclamatione attollentes loeti Suffolchiam deduxerunt, & in villa Burum ad regni fastigium promoverunt, assistente Huniberto venerabili Antistite; Eadmundum in Regem unguente & consecrante. Est autem Burum, villa coronae antiquitus Regiae, certus limes Est-Saxiae & Suffolciae, sita super Sturiam fluvium aestate & hyeme rapidissimum. Which passage is the more observable, because it shews what we are to understand by Burva in Asserius's life of Alfred; that it is not Bury, as the Chronicle under Bromton's name supposes; nor yet Burne in Lincolnshire, as Mr. Camden there asserts; but this Bures, or Buers as Matthew Westminster calls it, This Galfrid to whom we owe the discovery, wrote before the year 1156.
[g] Ipswich, in Saxon Gypesƿic, is said by our Author to have 14 Churches.Blome, p. 209. The Parish-Churches are at present but 12, tho' besides these there is St. George's Chapel, and a Parish-Church now decay'd. It shews the ruins of 6 or 7 Religious-houses; one whereof, viz. Christ-Church, is converted into a mansion-house; another is employ'd for a place of Judicature, with a Gaol, where Quarter-Sessions are held for Ipswich-Division; and another is made a Free-school (with an Hospital,) having also the conveniency of a very good Library.Ibid. Its trade depending upon the sea, has receiv'd (since our Author's time) so much damage, that the number of their ships is very considerably diminish'd.
[h] In the times of the Saxons, Dunwich Dunwich. seems to have been of most early note. For tho' Bury (or S. Edmundsbury) has been for many hundreds of years much more considerable (the other falling to decay upon removal of the Bishop's See,) yet that had not it's reputation till long after. This I am satisfy'd is the same that the Saxon Annals call Domuc, and Bede Dommoc, answerable to which, in K. Alfred's translation it is Dommoc-ceaster. The circumstances make the conjecture very probable; for Alfhun who is said to have been bury'd there An. 799. is likewise said to have dy'd at Suðberi, that is Sudbury in this County. And where can we imagine the Bishop should be bury'd, but at his own See, and in his own Church? In another place of Bede we meet with Dunmoc, which as it is undoubtedly Dunwich, so it differs not much from Domuc or Dommoc.
Upon an enquiry after the state of this place, Sir Henry Spelman (as I find by a posthumous paper of his) was inform'd by one of the inhabitants, that by report there had been 50 Churches in Dunwich, that the foundations and Church-yards of S. Michael, S. Mary, S. Martin, and S. John's were then to be seen, over and besides S. Peter and S. Nicholas, with a Chapel yet standing. The ditch-bank or town-wall of it is four-square.
[i] Blithburrow, Blithburrow. how mean soever at present, seems yet to have been very ancient. For about 16 or 18 years ago there were several Roman Urns digg'd up from among some old buildings; and (to set aside the termination burh, which is one mark of antiquity) in the Saxon and following ages it was of good note, as were most other places that the Romans had left. Which appears as well from what our Author has observ'd of it, as it's having the Gaol for the division of Bettles, an evidence of the Sessions that have been formerly kept here.
[k] By the river Ouse is Euston, Euston. formerly belonging to a family of that name.Heyl [...]. help, co Hist. It is seated on a flat, and in a fair pleasant Champian Country; which induc'd the Earl of Arlington to raise a noble Structure there call'd by the name of Euston-hall; adorn'd with a large Nursery containing great quantities of Fruit-trees of several sorts, with artificial fountains, a Canal, a pleasant Grove, a large Warren, &c. It hath given the title of Earl to Henry Fitz-Roy, created August 16. 1672. Baron of Sudbury, Viscount Ipswich, and Earl of Euston, upon his marriage with the only daughter of the Earl of Arlington. He was afterwards, Sept. 11. 1675. created Duke of Grafton.
[l] The remains of Roman Antiquity in this County are but small. Burgh-Castle Burgh-castle. is (I think) by much the most considerable. Mr. Camden tells us, that 'tis built of flint and bricks: the bricks are nigh a foot and a half in length, and almost a foot in breadth, and so agree pretty exactly with the account of Roman bricks, given by Vitruvius, and (after him) by Pliny. The wall of the castle looking towards the east remains still in it's full length, being about 220 yards; the height about 17 or 18 foot, with 4 round [Page 381-382] towers, each of them about 14 foot diameter, and of equal height with the wall.
These towers are joyn'd with the wall; but yet jutt out so far beyond it, that only a small part of the periphery is within: they are not hollow within, but solid. At north and south are two other walls, now not above 120 yards in length, the rest being laid in rubbish; as also the west-wall towards the river, if there ever was any such. For 'tis possible the steepness of the hill, and a morass below, next the river, might be thought a sufficient security on that side. Of what use the Castle was, is not certain. the Stablesian-horse might very well be plac'd here, but that the rivers and marshy grounds round it are not so fit to fix a Station in. Ralph, the son of Roger de Burgh held this castle by Sergeanty, and after him Gilbert de Weseham; but at last when it was surrender'd into the hands of Hen. 3. he (Apr. 20. and 20th year of his reign) gave it, with all the appurtenances, to the Monastery of Bromholmes. What our Author observes of Sigebert's coming out of this Monastery, must be a mistake. For Thomas Eliensis printed in the Acta Benedictinorum, vol. 2. pag. 239. names Bury or Betrichesworde, as the place in which Sigebert betook himself to a Monastick life. And the same appears not only by the * Monasticon, [...]. P g [...]4. and Caius's † Antiquities of Cambridge, but also by several Manuscript testimonies collected by the learned Dr. Batteley. They have a tradition, that the Monastery there was afterwards inhabited by Jews; and an old way leading to the entrance, call'd the Jews-way, may seem to give it some colour of probability.
Continuation of the EARLS.
Thomas, the last Earl mention'd by our Author, was succeeded by his son and heir Theophilus, who in his father's life-time bore the title of Lord Howard of Walden; and dying June 3. 1640. left this honour to James his son and heir; to whom succeeded Henry the present Earl.
More rare Plants growing wild in Suffolk.
Abrotanum campestre C. B. Park. Ger. Artemisia tenuifolia S. leptophyllos, aliis Abrotanum sylvestre. J. B. Wild Sothernwood or fine-leav'd Mugwort. At a place call'd Elden in Suffolk, twelve miles beyond New-market in the way towards Lynne, on the balks of the Corn-fields, and by the way sides abundantly for a mile in length and breadth. Also a mile from Barton-mills, where a mark standeth in the way to Lynne to direct passengers, and among the Furze-bushes under the hill plentifully. Though this plant be very common beyond Seas, yet hitherto I have not heard of any other place in England where it grows spontaneously.
Agrifolium baccis luteis nondum descriptum P. B. Yellow berried Holly. At Wiston in this County not far from Buers.
Carduus tomentosus Corona fratrum Park. eriocephalus Ger. Woolly headed Thistle. Near Clare in Suffolk plentifully. See the Synonimes in Cambridge-Catalogue.
Caucalis tenuifolia flosculis subrubentibus Hist. nost. arvensis echinata parvo flore C. B. Fine-leav'd bastard Parsley with a small purplish flower. Amongst the Corn here at Notley, and in many other places.
Crithmum chrysanthemum Park. Ger. maritimum flore Asteris Attici C. B. marinum tertium Matthioli, flore luteo Buphthalmi J. B. Golden-flower'd Sampire. On the bank of the river just above Fulbridge at Maldon in Essex.
Gramen dactylon latiore folio C. B. Ischaemon sylvestre latiore folio Park. Plentifully in the plowed-fields about Elden aforesaid.
Lychnis viscosa flore muscoso C. B. Sesamoides Salamanticum magnum Ger. Muscipula Salmantica major Park. Muscipula muscoso flore seu Ocymoides Belliforme J. B. Spanish Catchfly. In and about the gravel pits on the north side of New-market town: also by the way sides all along from Barton-mills to Thetford in Norfolk.
Lychnis noctiflora C. B. Park. Ocymoides non speciosum J. B. Night-flowering Campion. Among corn about Saxmundham, and between the two Windmills and Warren-lodge at Mewell.
Militaris Aizoides Ger. Stratiotes s. Militaris Aizoides Park. Aloe palustris C. B. Aizoon palustre sive Aloe palust. J.B. The Freshwater-Soldier or Water-Aloe. In the lake in Loving-land.
Pisum marinum Ger. aliud maritimum Britannicum Park. Our English Sea-pease. On the stone-baich between Orford and Alburgh call [...]d the Shingle, especially on the further end toward Orford abundantly. Gesner. lib. de Aquatil. 4. p. 256. from the Letters of Dr Key; and from him Jo. Stow in his Chronicle tells us, That in a great dearth which happened in the year 1555. the poor people in this part of the Country, maintain'd themselves and their children with these Pease, which, saith he, to a miracle, sprung up in the Autumn, among the bare stones, no earth being intermixt, of their own accord, and bare fruit sufficient for thousands of people. That these Pease did then spring up miraculously for the relief of the poor, I believe not: that there might be then, Providence so ordering it, an extraordinary crop of them, I readily grant. Yet do they not grow among the bare stones: but spread their roots in the sand below the stones, wherewith there may also perhaps be some ouze mixt, and are nourish'd by the Sea-water penetrating the sands, as are many other maritime plants. Neither did they owe their original to Shipwracks or Pease cast out of Ships, as Camden hints to be the opinion of the wiser; but witbout doubt sprung up at first spontaneously, they being to be found in several the like places about England. See Kent and Sussex.
Sium alterum Olusatri facie Ad. Lob. Ger. Emac. majus alterum angustifolium Park. Erucae folio. C. B. q. Cicuta aquatica Gesneri J.B. Long-leav'd Water-Hemlock or Parsnep. In the lake of Lovingland.
Trifolium cum glomerulis ad caulium nodos rotundis. Knotted Trefoil with round heads. I found this in gravelly places about Saxmundham in this County.
Trifolium flosculis albis, in glomerulis oblongis asperis, cauliculis proximè adnatis. An Trifolium rectum flore glomerato cum unguiculis J. B? White-flower'd knotted Trefoil with oblong rough heads. At Newmarket, where the Sesamoides Salamanticum grows, and in other places.
Trifolium cochleatum modiolis spinosis. Hedgehog Trefoil with rundles resembling a thin segment of a cone. At Orford in Suffolk on the Sea-bank close by the Key plentifully.
Veronica erecta, foliis laciniatis. Alsine foliis hederaceis Rutae modo divisis Lob. recta triphyllos sive laciniata Park. triphyllos caerulea C. B. recta Ger. folio profundè secto, flore purpureo seu violaceo J. B. Upright Speedwell with divided leaves. At Mewell between the two Windmils and the Warren-lodge: And in the gravel-pits two miles beyond Barton-mills on the ridge of a hill where a small cart-way crosseth the rode to Lynne, and in the grass thereabout plentifully.
Urtica Romana Ger. Park. Romana seu mas cum globulis J. B. urens, pilulas ferens, prima Dioscoridis, semine lini C. B. Common Romane Nettle. About Alburgh, and elsewhere on the Sea-coast plentifully.
Sedum minimum non acre flore albo. Small mild white flower'd Stone-crop. In the more barren grounds all along between Yarmouth and Donewich. This differs specifically from the common Pepper-wort, and not in the colour of the flower only.
NORFOLK.
NORFOLK, commonly North-folk, that is, if you express it in Latin, Borealis p [...]pulus or the Northern People; is all along, the North-bound of Suffolk, from which it is divided by the two little rivers I mention'd, Ouse the Less and Waveney, running contrary ways. On the east and north sides, the German Ocean, which is full of fish, beats upon the shore with a great roaring; on the west, Ouse the Greater sporting it self by the many branches, parts it from Cambridgeshire. The County is large, and almost all Champion, except in some places where there arise gentle hills. 'Tis very rich, well stor'd with flocks of sheep, and abounds with Conies. It is set with great numbers of populous villages, (for beside 27 Market-towns, it has 625 Country-towns and villages,) is well water'd, and does not want wood. The soil is different according to the several quarters; in some places, fat, luscious, and full of moisture, as in Mershland and Flegg; in others, especially to the west, it is poor, lean, and sandy; and in others, clayey and chalkey. But (to follow the directions of Varro) the goodness of the soil may be gather'd from hence, that the inhabitants are of a bright clear complexion; not to mention their sharpness of wit, and admirable quickness in the study of our Common-Law. So that it is at present, and always has been reputed, the most fruitful Nursery of Lawyers; and even among the common people you shall meet with a great many, who (as one expresses it) if they have no just quarrel, are able to raise it out of the very quirks and niceties of the Law. But lest, while I consult brevity, I suffer my self to be drawn aside by digressions; I will pass from these to the places themselves: and beginning at the south side, will take a short view of such as are of greatest note and Antiquity.
Upon Ouse the Less, where the little river Thet joyns it out of Suffolk, is seated in a low ground, that ancient City Sitomagus Sitomagus. mention'd by Antoninus, and corruptly nam'd in the fragments of an old Table, Simomagus [a], and Sinomagus. 'Tis now call'd Thetford, Thetford. and in Saxona Ðeotford, by keeping the first syllable of the old name, and adding the German ford. For as Sitomagus signifies in British a city upon the river Sit, now Thet, (as to Magus Magus. signifying formerly a City, we have the authority of Pliny;) so does Thetford signifie in English a ford of the Thet [b]: and these two names Sit and Thet are not very unlike. 'Tis now but thin peopled, tho' pretty large, and formerly a populous and famous place. Besides other marks of it's Antiquity, it shews a huge mote thrown up to a great height, fortify'd with a double rampire, and formerly too (as they say) with walls. Some will have it to have been a work of the Romans; but others are rather inclin'd to think it done by the Saxon Kings, under whom it was in a flourishing condition for a long while. But by the cruelty of Sueno the Dane, who set it on fire in the year 1003. and that of the Danes who spoil'd it 6 years after, it lost all it's dignity and grandeur. To restore which, Arfastus the Bishop remov'd his Episcopal See from Elmham to this place; and his successor William spar'd neither cost nor pains for it's ornament: so that under Edward the Confessor there were reckon'd in it 947 Burgesses. And in the time of William the Conquerour it had 720 mansions, whereof 224 stood empty; and their chief Magistrate was stil'd Consul 1. But when Herbert, sirnam'db Losenga (as being almost made up of lying and flattery) the third Bishop that rais'd himself to this honour by ill arts and bribery, had translated this See to Norwich; it relaps'd, as if come to it's last period. Nor did the Monastery of Cluniacks, built there by his means, make amends for the removal of the Bishop. The house was built by Hugh Bigod, as appears from what he says in his original Foundation-Charter. I Hugh Bigod, Steward to King Henry, by his consent, and the advice of Herbert Bishop of Norwich, plac'd Cluniac-Monks in the Church of St. Mary, lately the Episcopal See of Thetford; which I gave them, and afterwards founded them another more convenient without the village. Then the greatest part of the City, which had stood in the hither bank, fell to decay by little and little; but in the other part (tho' that too fail'd very much,) about two ages since there were seven Churches; besides three small Monasteries, one whereof, they say, was built in memory of the English and Danes slain here. For our Historians tell us, that the most holy King Edmund, a little before his death, engag'd the Danes hard by for seven hours together, not without vast loss on both sides; and that at last they parted with equal success: such effect had those frequent turns of fortune on both sides, that it had made them altogether senseless.
Upon Waveney, (which is the other boundary river, running eastward) not far from it's head, are Buckenham and Kenninghall. Kenni [...]ghall. This latter (which seems to have had the name left it by the Iceni,) is the seat of the honourable family of the Howards, whose glory is greater than to be obscur'd by the envy of Buchanan. The former, which I should think took it's name from beech-trees, call'd by the Saxons Bucken Bucke [...] ham. [c], is a very beautiful and very strong Castle, b [...]ilt by William d'Aubigny or de Albeneio the Norman, to whom the Conquerour had granted the place. By his posterity (who were Earls of Arundel) it descended to the Totsalls, and from them by Caly and the Cliftons to the family ofc Knevetts Fami [...]y [...]f the Kn [...] vets. [d]. This last is a very ancient family, having been famous ever since the time of2 John Knevet, Lord Chancellour of England under Edw. 3.; and has very much branch'd it self out by honourable marriages. For besides them of Buckenham; those famous Knights Sir Henry Knevet of Wiltshire, and3 Sir Thomas Knevet of Ashellwell-thorp are descended thence [e]. This Ashellwell-thorp is a neighbouring little town, which from the Thorps ancient Knights, by the Tilneys and Lords Bourchiers of Bernes, Lord B [...] chier of B [...]rne [...]. at last hereditarily descended to the abovemention'd Thomas Knevet: the foresaid Buckenham is held upon this condition, that the Lords of it be Butlers at the Coronation of the Kings of England [f]. So in Carleton a neighbouring village (a thing perhaps worth our notice) Ralph de Carleton and another person, held Lands by the Service of carrying our Lord the King an hundred Pas [...]s na [...]. herring-pies, when they first came into season, to what part of England soever he should then be in [g]. But presently, this river waters Disce, now Dis, Dis. a little town of pretty good note, which King Henry 1. bestow'd upon4 Richard de Lucy, and he shortly after made over to Walter Fitz-Robert along with his daughter. Robert Fitz-Walter, one of his posterity, procur'd the privilege of a Market for this place, of Edw. 1. From hence, tho' Waveney beRea [...] tus. thick set with towns, yet has it not one that can boast of any Antiquity; except it be5 Shelton, Shelton. which is at some distance from it, and gave name to the very ancient family of the Sheltons. But before it gets to the sea, it joyns the river Garienis, Garien [...] call'd by the Britains Guerne, by the English Gerne and Jere; without all doubt from the Alder-trees (so nam'd in British) with which it is over-shadow'd. It rises in the middle of this County, not far from a small village call'd Gernston, to which it gave the name; and has near it Hengham, Bar [...]ns of R [...] [...] H [...]m. which had it's Barons call'd also de Rhia, descended from [Page]
[Page] [Page] John Mareschal (brother's son to William Mareschal Earl of Pembroke) to whom King John gave the lands of Hugh de Gornay, a Traitor, with the daughter and coheir of Hubert Lord of Rhia. But in process of time it has pass'd from the Mareschals 6 to the Morlies, and from them by Lovel to the Parkers now Lords of Morley d. At a little distance is Skulton, otherwise call'd Burdos 7, which was held upon this condition, that the Lords of it, at the Coronation of the Kings of England, should be chief Lardiner, as they term him8. More to the east, we see Wimundham, [...]ndham. now contracted into Windham, famous for being the burying-place of the Albinies, Earls of Arundel, whose Ancestor William de Albiney, Butler to King Henry 1. built a Church here9, and made it a Cell to the Monastery of St. Albans: upon the Steeple, which is very high, William Kett one of the two Norfolk incendiaries in the year 1549. was hang'd. Nor must we pass by Attilborough [...]b [...] [...]gh. at 5 miles distance, the seat of the ancient family of Mortimers, [...]rtimers. whose bearing is different from those of Wigmore, (namely, a Shield Or, Semé de floures de Lyz sables,) and who founded here a Collegiate Church, which has no remains at present. Their estate went formerly by marriage to the Ratcliffs now Earls of Sussex, to the family of Fitz-Ranulph, and to10 Ralph Bigod. But to return to the river.
The Yare has not run much towards the east, till a little river Wentsum (by others call'd Wentfar) empties it self into it from the south. Upon this, near it's rise, is a square entrenchment at Taiesborrough, containing 24 Acres. It seems to be an Encampment of the Romans; possibly that which by the Chorographical Table publish'd by Mark Velser is call'd Ad Taum. Higher up, upon the same river, formerly stood Venta Icenorum, [...] Ice [...]m. the most flourishing City of this People; but now it has lost the ancient name, and is call'd Caster. [...]r. Nor need we wonder that of the three Ventae in Britain this alone should have lost it's name, when it has lost it's very being. For now, setting aside the broken walls (which in a square contain about 30 acres) the marks where the buildings have stood, and some Roman Coins which they now and then dig up, there is nothing left [h]. But in after-ages, Norwich, at three miles distance, had it's rise out of this; standing near the confluence of Yare, and another anonymous river call'd by some Bariden, which in a long course11 with it's dinted and winding banks comes this way by Attilbridge: leaving Horsford [...]sf [...]d. to the north, where the Castle of William de Casinet or Cheney (who in the reign of Hen. 2. was a chief man among the Nobility) lies overgrown with bushes and brambles.
The Norwich [...]wich. above-mention'd is a famous City, call'd in Saxon Norðƿic, i.e. the northern bay or bosom, (if ƿic in Saxon signifies a bay or winding, [...] what [...]gn [...]f [...]es [...]g the [...]. as Rhenanus has told us,) for here the river runs along with crooked windings: or the northern Station (if ƿic, as Hadrianus Junius will have it, signifie a secure Station, where the houses are built close one to another:) or else the northern castle, if ƿic (as12 Alfrick the Saxon has affirm'd) denote a Castle [i]. But if I should imagine with some, that Norwich were the same with Venta, what were it but a downright renouncing Truth? For it has no better title to the name of Venta, than either Basil has to that of Augusta, [...]usta. or Baldach to Babilonia. [...]co [...]. Namely, as this latter rose upon the fall of Babilonia, and the former upon that of Augusta; just so our Norwich grew up long after the decay of the ancient Venta. Which appears from it's British name in Authors, Caer Guntum; wherein (as in the river Wentsum or Wentfar) we find the plain remains of the name Venta. For the name of Norwich does not appear in any Writer before the time of the Danish wars. So far is it from having been built either by Caesar or Guiteline the Britain, as some fabulous Authors tell you, who swallow every thing that comes, without either consideration or judgment. However at present, upon account of it's wealth, populousness, neatness of buildings, beautiful Churches, with the number of them (for it has a matter of 30 Parishes; as also the industry of it's Citizens, Loyalty to their Prince, and Civility to Foreigners; it is to be reckon'd among the most considerable Cities in Britain. It's Latitude is 52 degrees, 40 minutes: the Longitude 24 degrees, 55 minutes. 'Tis pleasantly seated long-ways on the side of an hill, reaching from south to north a mile and a half: the breadth of it is hardly half so much, and towards the south it draws it self in (as it were) by little and little, like a Cone. It is fortify'd with walls (that have a great many turrets, and eleven gates,) on all sides except the east, which the river defends with a deep chanel and steep banks; after it has with it's winding reach wash'd the northern part, where 'tis made passable by four bridges. In the infancy (as it were) of this City, and the reign of King Etheldred (a Prince of no manner of policy or conduct) Sweno the Dane, who invaded England with a great army, first spoil'd and then burnt it. Notwithstanding which, it recover'd it self, and (as appears by the Conquerour's Survey-book) in the reign of Edward the Confessor reckon'd 1320 Burgesses. At which time (to use the expression of that Book) it paid 20 pound to the King and 10 to the Earl; and beside that. 20 shillings, 4 Prebendaries, 6 Sextaries of honey, and Ursum, & sex canes ad ursum. a bear with 6 dogs to bait him. Now it pays 70 pound by weight to the King, a hundred shillings De Gersuma as a fine to the Queen, with an ambling Palfrey: 20 pound Blancas. blank also to the Earl, and 20 shillings fine by tale. In the reign of William 1. this was the seat of a Civil war, which Ralph Earl of the East-Angles rais'd against that King. For after he had escap'd by flight, his wife, along with the Armorican Britains, endur'd a close siege, till for want of provisions, she was forc'd to get off and quit her Country. And at that time the City was so impair'd, that (as appears by the same Domesday) there were scarce 560 Burgesses left in it. Lanfrank Archbishop of Canterbury mentions this surrender in a Letter to King William, in these words. Your kingdom is purg'd from the infection of the Britains (or Armoricans.) the Castle of Norwich is surrender'd; and the Britains, that were in it and had lands here in England, upon granting them life and limb▪ have took an oath to depart your Dominions within forty days, and never to return more without your special licence. From that time forward, it began by little and little to recover it self out of this deluge of miseries; and Bishop Herbert, whose reputation had suffer'd much by Simoniacal practices, translated the Episcopal See from Thetford hither. He built a very beautiful Cathedral on the east and lower part of the City, in a place till then call'd Cow-holme, near the Castle; the first stone whereof, in the reign of William Rufus, and year of our Lord 1096. he himself laid, with this Inscription.
DOMINUS HERBERTUS POSUIT PRIMUM LAPIDEM IN NOMINE PATRIS, FILII, ET SPIRITUS SANCTI. AMEN.
That is, Lord [Bishop] Herbert laid the first stone in the name of the Father, the Son, and Holy Ghost. Amen.
Afterwards, he procur'd a Licence from Pope Paschal, to confirm and establish it the mother-Church of Norfolk and Suffolk; and endow'd it liberally with lands, sufficient for the maintenance of 60 Monks, who had their neat and curious Cloysters. But these were remov'd; [Page 387-388] and a Dean, six Prebendaries, with others, put in their places. After the Church thus built, and an Episcopal See plac'd here, it became a Town (as Malmsbury has it) famous for Merchandise and number of Inhabitants. And in the 17th of King Stephen (as we read in some ancient Records) Norwich was built anew, was a populous town, and made a Corporation. That King Stephen also granted it to his Son William for an Appennage (as they call it) or inheritance, is very evident from the publick Records. But Henry the second took it from him, and held it himself; notwithstanding, Henry his Son, the Junior-King, as they call'd him, when he endeavour'd after the Crown, had promis'd it in large terms to Hugh Bigod Earl of Norfolk, whom he had drawn over to his party. Bigod however, adhering to the young King (who could not over-rule his eager hopes of the Crown with Justice and Equity) miserably harrass'd this City; and is thought to have rebuilt that Castle on the high hill near the Cathedral, within the City, encompast with a trench of such vast depth, that in those times it was lookt upon as impregnable. But Lewis of France, under whom the rebellious Barons had joyn'd against King John, easily took it by siege. The reason why I fancy Bigod repair'd the Castle, is because I observ'd Lions saliant cut in a stone, in the same manner, as the Bigods formerly us'd them in their seals; of whom tho' there was one that made use of a Cross. And this was the condition of Norwich in its infancy.
But in the next age it increas'd mightily, and abounded with wealthy Citizens; who by a humble petition in Parliament desir'd liberty of Edward the first to wall their City round: and afterwards accordingly did it, to the great strength and ornament of it†. In the year 1403. they obtain'd leave of Henry the fourth, instead of Bailiffs (which they had before) to elect a Mayor yearly; and in the very heart of the City, near the market-place, built a most beautiful Town-house, which on the set days are furnisht with all manner of provisions. 'Tis partly indebted to the Netherlands, who after they could no longer endure the tyranny of the Duke ofAlbani. Alva, nor the bloody Inquisition setting up, flockt hither in great numbers, and first brought in the manufacture of* light worsted stuffsLeviden [...]ium quorundam pannorum.. But why am I so long upon these matters? when they are all, with the History of the Bishops, the succession of their Magistrates, and the fury of that villanous rebel Kett against this City, very elegantly describ'd by Alexander Nevil, a person eminent both for birth and learning. I will only add, that in the year 1583. the Citizens by the help ofInstrumento Hydragogico. an artificial Instrument, convey'd water through pipes into the highest part of the City. And here I could summon both Polydore Virgil the Italian, and Angelus Capellus the Frenchman, to answer before the Tribunal of venerable Antiquity, how they come to affirm that our old Ordovices (who liv'd almost under another Hemisphere) inhabited this Norwich. I could bring the same Action against our Countryman Caius; but that I am satisfy'd 'twas nothing but a natural love of his native Country that blinded the learned old man. And I have nothing more to add about Norwich; unless you have a mind to run over these verses made upon it by John Johnston a Scotchman.
From Norwich, the river Yare, with the increase of other waters that take the same name, rowls on in a winding chanel, and abounds with the fish call'd a Ruffe; A R [...]ff [...]. and because the English by that word express the Latin Asperum, De R [...]orum [...] malium [...] st [...]. John Caius term'd it Aspredo For the body of it is all over rough; 'tis full of sharp finns, loves sandy places, and in shape and bigness is much like a Perch. The colour ofP [...] [...] ma. the back is a dark brown; thePe [...] [...] belly, a palish yellow. Along the jaws, it is markt with a double semicircular line: the upper half of the eye is a dark brown, the under is yellowish like gold, and the ball, black. 'Tis particularly remarkable for a line drawn along the back, like a cross thread ty'd to the body. The tail and finns are all over spotted with black. When 'tis provok'd, the sinns bristle up; when quieted, they lay flat and close. It eats like a Perch, and is particularly valu'd for itsF [...] [...] tate. tender shortness and wholesomness.
So soon as the Yare has pass'd Claxton (where is a round Castle, lately built by Sir Thomas Gawdy Kt. Lord Chief Justice of the Common Pleas,)13 and is now come just to the Sea; it takes a turn to the South, that it may descend more gently into the Sea: by which means it makes a sort of little tongue or slip of Land, washt on one side by it self, on the other by the Sea. In this slip, upon an open shore, I saw Yarmouth, Ya [...] in Saxon Gar-muð and Jier-muð, i.e. the mouth of the Garienis, G [...]r [...] [...]. a very neat harbour and town, fortify'd both by the nature of the place, and the contrivance of Art. For though it be almost surrounded with water; on the west with the river (over which is a Draw-bridge,) and on other sides with the Sea, except to the North where 'tis joyn'd to the Continent; yet is it fenc'd with strong stately walls, which with the river, figure it into an oblong quadrangle. Besides the towers upon these, there is a mole or mount to the East, from whence the great Guns command the Sea (scarce half a mile distant) all round. It has but one Church, though very large, and with a stately high spire; built near the North-gate by Herbert Bishop of Norwich. Below which the foundations of a noble Work design'd as an enlargement to this, are rais'd above ground. I dare not affirm that this was the old Gariononum where formerly the Stablesian Horse lay in garison against the Barbarians. Nor yet the neighbouring little village Castor (formerly the seat of Sir John Falstoff an eminent Knight14) famous among the Inhabitants upon account of its antiquity; though there is a report that the river Yare had another mouth just under it. But as I am throughly convinc'd that the Garianonum G [...]an [...] n [...]m. was at Burgh-castle in Suffolk, which is scarce two miles distant from the other side of the river; so am I apt to think that Yarmouth rose out of its ruins, and that that Castor was one of the Roman Castles, plac'd also at a mouth of the river Yare now shut up. For as theC [...] North-west-wind plays the tyrant upon the coast of Holland, over against this place,e and has stopt up the middle-mouth of the [Page 389-390] Rhine by heaping in Sands; just so has theAquilo. North-east plagu'd this coast, and by sweeping up heaps of Sand seems to have stopt this Mouth. Nor will it be any injury, if I call this our Yarmouth (so nearly joyn'd to the old Garianonum Gar [...]anonum.) it self; since the Garienis, from whence it had the name, has not chang'd its chanel, and enters the Ocean below this town, to which it hath also given its name. For I cannot but own, that this our Yarmouth is of later date. For when that old Garianonum was gone to decay, and there was none left to defend the shore, Cerdick the warlike SaxonC [...]rdick the S [...]on. landed here (from whence the place is call'd by the inhabitants at this day Cerdick-sand, Cerdick-sand. and by other Historians Cerdick-shore;) and when he had pester'd the Iceni with a troublesome war, set sail from hence for the west, where he settl'd the kingdom of the West-Saxons. And not long after, the Saxons instead of Garianonum built a new town in that moist watery field upon the west side of the river, which they call'd Yarmouth. But the situation of that proving unwholesom, they march'd over to the other side of the river, call'd then (from the same Cerdick) Cerdick-sand: and there they built this new town, wherein (as Domesday-book has it) there flourisht in the time of Edward the Confessor 70 Burgesses. Afterwards, about the year of our Lord 1340. the Citizens wall'd it round;G [...]. Worce [...]ter. and in a short time became so rich and powerful, that they often engag'd their neighbours the Lestoffenses and the Portuenses (so they call'd the inhabitants of the Cinque Ports) in Sea-fights, with great slaughter on both sides. For they had a particular spight against them, possibly upon this account, because they were excluded out of the number, and depriv'd of the Privileges of the Cinque-Ports, which both the old Garianonum, and their Ancestors under the Count of the Saxon-shore formerly enjoy'd. But a stop was put to these extravagancies by the Royal Authority; or (as others think) by the damp which that grievous plague brought upon them, that in one year took 7000 Souls out of this little town: as appears by an old Chronographical Table hung up in the Church; which also gives an account of their wars with the Portuenses and the Lestoffenses. From that time they grew low, nor had they wealth sufficient to carry on their merchandise; upon which they have betaken themselves mostly to the herring-trade (for so they generally call them, though the learned think them to be the Chalcides and the Leucomaenides) a sort of fish that's more plentiful upon this coast than any other part of the world.Haleces. For it seems incredible what a great and throng Fair is here at Michaelmas; and what quantities of herring and other fish are vended. At which time the Cinque-Ports, by an old custom, appoint so many Bailiffs, Commissioners, to send hither; who (to speak out of their Diploma or Commission) along with the Magistrates of the Town, during the free Fair, hold a Court for matters belonging to the Fair, execute the King's justice, and keep the King's peace. The harbour underneath is of great advantage not only to the inhabitants, but those of Norwich also; and 'tis an infinite charge they are at to keep it open against the violence of the Sea. Which, to do justice and make amends for what it has swallow'd up on this coast, has here heap'd up Sands into a little Island [k].
At this Mouth also another river, call'd by some Thyrn, Thyrn river. empties it self along with the Yare. It rises near Holt, so call'd from the wood, and noted for its market: and running all along as it were perpendicularly with the Yare at about five miles distance, goes by Blickling, Blickling. f now the seat of the ancient and famous family of Clere, who liv'd formerly at Ormesby [l]; and by Ailesham, Ailesham. a pretty populous market-town, where formerly the Earl of Athol in Scotland was possess'd of Lands15; then by the ruinous Monastery of Sr. Benedict de Hulmo, (commonly S. Benet S. Benets. in the Holme, i.e. in a river Island,) built by Canute the Dane, and afterwards so fortify'd by the Monks with strong walls and bulwarks, that it lookt more like a Castle than a Cloyster. So that, William the Conquerour could not possibly take it, till a Monk betray'd it upon condition he should be made Abbot; which he accordingly was. But presently the new Abbot (as the story goes among the inhabitants) was by the King's special order hang d for a Traitor, and so was punisht answerably to his treachery. The ground in this Island is so fenny, that if you only cut theFibrae, little strings and roots of the trees and shrubs that grow in it, it swims upon the water, and you may draw it after you whither you please. And some conclude from the Cockles now and then dug up there, that once the Sea broke in so far. From hence the river glides on by Ludham, Ludham, a seat of the Bishops of Norwich; then by Clipsby, Clipsby. which gave name to an ancient and eminent family in these parts: and so presently joyns the Yare [m].
From the Yare's mouth, the shore runs in a manner directly northward to Winterton, a little Promontory of note among the Sea-men, which I fancy had that name given it from the winterly situation. For it lyes open to the Sea (that Parent of winds and cold) which rushes violently against the banks rais'd on purpose to oppose it. And yet the neighbouring fields all round, are lookt upon by several, to be the fattest and loosest in all England;A soil very fat. as requiring the least labour, and bringing the largest increase. For (as Pliny says of Bizacium in Africa) it may be plow'd with a horse of any sort, and an old woman drawing against him.
From Winterton the shore presently turns westward, giving back for a long way together, and in a level, without any considerable juttings out into the Sea; as far as Eccles, swallow'd up by the Ocean. Then runs on, though with a higher shore, by Bronholme, formerly a small Monastery endow'd by the Glanvils, seated upon a high hill, the Cross whereof was by our Ancestors had in mighty veneration16: And not far from Gimmingham, Gimmingham. which among other manours J. Earl of Warren and Surrey formerly gave to Thomas Earl of Lancaster [n]. So along by Cromer, where the Inhabitants at great expence endeavour'd to maintain aCothonem. little harbour against the violence of the Sea, but all in vain; it runs to Wauburnehope, a creek not long since fortify'd, so call'd from the little town of Wauburne, Wauburne. to which King Edward the second granted a Market and Fair at the instance of Oliver de Bourdeaux. Next to this is Clay, and over against it on the other bank of the little river, Blakeney, Blackney. call'd by our Countryman Bale Nigeria, a famous College of Carmelite Friers in the last age, 1321 built by17 Robert de Roos, 18 Robert Bacon, and J. Brett. It bred John Baconthorp John Baconthorp. (nam'd from the place of his birth, now the seat of the Heydons Knights) a man in that age of so universal and so profound Learning, that he was highly admir'd by the Italians, and went commonly by the name of the Resolute Doctor. Doctor Resolutus. Whereupon Paulus Pansa writes thus of him: If your inclinations lead you to search into the nature of Almighty God, no one has writ more accurately upon his Essence. If one has a mind to search into the causes of things, the effects of nature, the various motions of the heavens, and the contrary qualities of the elements; here he's presented with a Magazine. This one Resolute Doctor has furnisht the Christian Religion with armour against the Jews, stronger than any of Vulcan's, &c. From Wauburne to the little Promontory of S. Edmund, the coast lyes lower, cut and parted by many rivulets, and secur'd against the incursion of the Sea with Sand-heaps, call'dg Meales, Meales, or Mieles. not without great difficulty.
Scarce four miles more inward, is Walsingham; Walsingham. [Page 391-392] which from the nearness of the Sea Erasmus calls Parathalassa. This little town is noted at present for producing the best Saffron; but was lately famous through England for Pilgrimages to the Virgin Mary. For in the last age, whoever had not made a visit and a present to the Blessed Virgin of this place, was lookt upon as impious and irreligious. But take the description of it from Erasmus, who was an eye-witness. Not far from the sea, at almost four miles distance, there is a village in a manner entirely maintain'd by the great resort of Travellers. There is a College of Canons call'd by the Latins Regular,Regulars. a middle sort between Monks and Secular Canons. This College has scarce any other revenues, besides the Presents made to the Blessed Virgin. For some of the Gifts only that are more considerable, are preserv'd; but if it be any thing of money, or of small value, it goes to the maintenance of the Convent, and their Head, whom they stile Prior. The Church is splendid and beautiful; but the Virgin dwells not in it: that out of veneration and respect is granted to her son. She has her Church so contriv'd, as to be on the right hand of her son. But neither in that does she live, the building being not yet finisht; and the wind runs through it on all sides: for both doors and windows are open, and the Ocean (that Parent of winds) is hard by. In the Church which I told you is unfinish'd, there is a little narrow Chapel of wood, into which the Pilgrims are admitted on each side at a narrow door. There is but little light; almost none indeed except that of the wax tapers, which have a very grateful smell. But if you look in, you'll say 'tis a seat of the Gods, so bright and shining is it all over with jewels, gold, and silver. But within the memory of our Fathers, when Hen. 8. had set his eyes and heart upon the revenues of the Church, all these went to wrack. I have nothing else to add about Walsingham, but that the family of Walsinghams Knights (as the Genealogists will have it) had their name and original from this place. Of which family was Sir Francis Walsingham A Secretis. Secretary of State to Queen Elizabeth, a person, as admirably vers'd, so wonderful industrious in the most important affairs of the Kingdom [o]. In the neighbourhood, at Houghton, Houghton. flourish'd a famous family of the Neirfords, Neirfords. very much enrich'd by matching withPetronilla de Vallibus. Parnel de Vaulx, who had a great estate about Holt, Cley, and in other parts. But now to the shore.
Not far from Walsingham, upon the sea-shore to the west, stood that ancient Brannodunum, Brannodunum. where, when the Saxons began first to infest Britain, the Dalmatian Horse kept garison under the Count of the Saxon shore. Now 'tis a Country-village, retaining nothing but the bare remains of the name, and shewing an entrenchment (the neighbours call itCastrum. Caster) which includes some eight acres, and is nam'd Brancaster. Brancaster. Here ancient Roman Coins are commonly dug up [p]. This was a very proper place for a garrison: for at the neighbouring Chapel of St. Edmund [q], and at Hunstanton built by the same St. Edmund [r], the shore turns in to the south, and forms a large bay that is much expos'd to Pirates, and receives several Rivers. But Hunstanton Hu [...]stanton is not to be omitted even upon this account, that it has been the seat of the famous family of Le-Strange Le Strange. Knights, ever since John Baron Le-Strange of Knockin, bestow'd it upon his younger brother Hamon; which was in the reign of Edw. 2.
The catching of Hawks, the abundance of Fish, with the Jett and Amber commonly found upon this coast, I purposely pass by, because other places also in those parts afford them in great plenty. Yet Sharnborn Sharborn. upon this coast is well worth our notice, both because Foelix the Burgundian,F [...]elix the Bishop. who converted the East-Angles to Christianity, built in this place the second Christian Church of that Province, (for the first he is said to have built at Babingley where he landed;) as also because we are inform'd by ancient Records, that the Saxon Lord of this place, before the coming in of the Normans, upon a fair hearing before the Conquerour himself, had sentence given in favour of him, and recover'd the Manour from Warren upon whom the Conquerour had bestow'd it. Which passage is urg'd by such as hold that William did not possess himself of England by Conquest, but by treaty and Covenant [s].
The before-mention'd Bay we call The Washes, The Washes. but Ptolemy Aestuarium Metaris, Metaris astuar [...]m. possibly instead of Maltraith, a name by which the Britains call'd aestuaries in other places, and which imports no more than an uncertain aestuary, as this is. Upon this, where the river Ouse enters the Ocean, is seated Linne, perhaps so nam'd from it's spreading waters; for so much is imply'd by Lhyn in British. This is a large town, almost surrounded with a deep ditch and walls, and divided by two Rivulets, which have some 15 bridges over them. Tho' it be but of a late date, call'd not long since Bishop's Linne, because till Henry 8.'s time it belong'd to the Bishops of Norwich (for it arose out of the ruins of one more ancient, which lies in Mershland over-against it, and is call'd at this day Old Lynne, and Kings-Lynne [t];) yet for its safe harbour of so easie an entrance, for the number of merchants, beauty of buildings, and wealth of the Citizens, 'tis beyond dispute the best town of the Iceni, Norwich only excepted. It enjoys also very large Immunities, which they purchas'd of K. John with the price of their own blood, spent in the defence of his cause. For he granted them a Mayor, and gave his own sword to be carry'd before him [u], with a silver cup gilt, which they have at this day. Afterwards also, they purchas'd their lost Liberties of Hen. 3. not without blood; when they sided with him against the out-law'd Barons, and unluckily engag'd them in the Isle of Ely. An account whereof we have in the book of Ely, and in Matthew Paris.
Over the river, opposite to Lynne, lies Mershland, Mershland. a low marshy little tract (as the name implies) every where parcell'd with ditches and drains to draw off the waters and moisture into so many rivers [w]. The soil is exceeding fat, and breeds abundance of cattel; so that in the place call'd Tilney-Smeth Tilney-Smeth. there feed to the number of about thirty thousand sheep. But the sea, what by beating, washing away, overflowing, and demolishing, makes such frequent and violent attempts upon them, that they have much ado to keep it out by the help of banks [x]. The more considerable places in this tract areh Walpole, Walpole. which the Lord of the Manour formerly gave to the Church of Ely with his son, whom he made a Monk there: Wigenhall, the possession of J. Howard in the reign of Edward 1. whose posterity is grown into a most honourable and splendid family: Tilney before-mention'd, which gave name to the ancient family of the Tilneys Tilneys. Knights: and St. Maries, S. Maries. the seat of the ancient family of the Carvils [y].
And thus we have survey'd the sea-coast entire. More inward, upon the west-side of the County, there are also several towns; but because they are but of late standing, I will just only touch upon them. Near Linne is Rising-Castle, Rising. seated on a high hill, and vying with that at Norwich. It was formerly the seat of the Albinies; afterwards of Robert de Mont-hault by marriage with the sister and coheir of Hugh de Albiney Earl of Arundel; and lastly of the Mowbrays descended (as I have been told) from the same stock with the Albinies. But now it is ruinated, and as it were expiring for age [z]. Below is Castle-acre, Castle-acre where formerly the Earls of Warren dwelt, in a Castle now ruinous that stood upon a little river [aa]. The river is anonymous, rising not far from Godwicke, Godwick. a lucky name, where is a small seat; but made great by the ornament it receives from the famous Sir Edward Cooke Knight, a person of admirable parts; than whom as no one ever apply'd himself closer to the study of the Common-Law, so never any understood it better. Whereof he convinc'd England by his discreet management for many years together whilst Attorney-General, and still does by executing the office of Lord Chief Justice of the Common-Pleas with the greatest prudence. Nor has he given less proof of his abilities in his Commentaries upon our Laws, whereby he [Page 393-394] has highly oblig'd both his own Age, and Posterity. This little river glides on gently westward to Linne, by Neirford, Neirford. which gave name to the famous family of Neirfords; and by Neirborrough, where, near the seat of the Spilmans Knights, there is a strong and ancient military entrenchment upon a high hill, very conveniently seated for the defence of the neighbouring field [bb]. Next, Penteney is plac'd upon the same rivulet, which was formerly a common burying-place for the Nobility of those parts.
Neighbour to this is Wormegay Wormegay commonly Wrongey, which Reginald de Warren brother of William de Warren second Earl of Surrey, had with his wife; of whom (as I have read) the said Earl had the donation or Maritage, as they worded it in that age. By his grand-daughter by a son it presently went to the Bardolphs, [...]ar [...]ns [...]d [...]ph. noble and honourable Barons who flourish'd for a long time, and bore three Cinque-foils Or in a field azure. A great part of their estate, along with the title, came to19 William Phellips, and by his daughter to the Viscount Beaumont. More to the east we see Swaffham, [...]affham. a famous market-town, formerly the possession of the Earl of Richmond: Ashele-manour, [...]he [...]e. in right whereof the Hastings, and the Greys Lords of Ruthun, [...]n pr [...]c [...]. ‖ had formerly the oversight of the Table cloaths and Napkins made use of at the Coronation of the Kings of England. [...]e de [...]a [...]yre. North-Elmham, where the Bishops had their seat for some time, when this Diocese was divided into two [cc]. Dereham, D [...]eham. where was bury'd Withburga daughter of King Anna, who divorcing her self entirely from all luxury and levity, and being a Virgin of great sanctity, was by our Ancestors canoniz'd a Saint [dd]. Next to this is Gressenhall, [...]re [...]enhall. with its neighbour Elsing, both the possessions formerly of the Folliots, [...]o [...]ot. persons of great honour in their time. By the daughter of Richard Folliot they came to20 Hugh de Hastings of the family of Abergeuenny: and at length, by the daughters and heirs of Hugh Hasting the last, Gressenhal came to21 Hamon le Strange of Hunstanston, and Elsing [...]ing. to William Brown brother of22 Anthony Brown first Viscount Montacute. In this Quarter also is I [...]-borough, [...]hborough which Talbot takes to be the Iciani mention'd by Antoninus. [...]. Nor need I say any more about these matters. I have now nothing to do, but to reckon up the Earls and Dukes of Norfolk, and so go on to Cambridgeshire [ee].
[...]s and [...]kes of [...]rf [...]k.William the Conquerour set one Ralph over the Country of the East-Angles, that is, the Counties of Norfolk, Suffolk, and Cambridgeshire. But he was quickly depriv'd (as I observ'd before) for endeavouring innovations in the State. Some years after, in the reign of K. Stephen, Hugh Bigod was Earl of Norfolk. For when a Peace was concluded between Stephen and Henry of Anjou (afterwards Henry 2.) it was expresly provided that William son of Stephen, [...]eement [...]ween K. [...]p [...]en and [...]y D. of [...]pe. should have the whole County of Norfolk, except, among other things, the third penny of which Hugo Bigod was Earl. Whom notwithstanding King Hen. 2. afterwards made Earl of the third penny of Norfolk and Norwic. A Mon [...]s. In the 27th of Henry 2. upon his death, his son Roger succeeded him, who for I know not what reason procur'd a new Creation-Charter of Rich. 1. Roger was succeeded by his son Hugh, who marry'd Mawd eldest daughter and coheir of William Marshal Earl of Pembroke. By her he had Roger Earl of Norfolk and Marshal of England,Luxatis [...]poris ar [...]lis. who * wresting and straining his joynts in a Tournament, dy'd without issue; and Hugh Bigod Lord Chief Justice of England, slain in the battel of Lewes, whose son Roger succeeded his Uncle in the dignity of Earl of Norfolk and Marshal [of England]. But when his insolent and stubborn behaviour had thrown him under the displeasure of Edw. 1. he was forc'd to pass over his honours, and almost his whole estate, to the King, for the use of Thomas de Brotherton, the King's son by Margaret sister to Philip the Fair, King of France. For so a History has told us out of the Library of St. Augustin's in Canterbury. In the year 1301. Roger Bigod Earl of Norfolk made King Edward his heir, and deliver'd up to him the Marshal's rod, upon this condition, That if his wife bore him any children, all should be return'd, and he should hold it peaceably without any contradiction on the King's part. And the King gave him a thousand pound in money, and a thousand Librata [...]. pound in lands for life, along with the Titles of Marshal and Earl. But he dying without issue, King Edw. 2. by virtue of the surrender above-mention'd, honour'd his brother Thomas Brotherton with the titles of Marshal, and Earl of Norfolk. But his daughter Margaret, Parl. 21. Rich. 2. call'd Lady Marshal and Countess of Norfolk, and marry'd to John Lord Segrave, was created Dutchess of Norfolk for life by K. Rich. 2. who at the same time created Thomas Mowbray (Earl of Nottingham and grandchild to Margaret by a daughter) first Duke of Norfolk to him and his heirs males; having before granted him the dignity and stile of Earl Marshal of England.23 This is he who accus'd Henry of Lancaster Earl of Hereford to the King, for blabbing some scandalous and malicious words against his Majesty. And when they were to try it by duel, a Herald by the King's authority pronounc'd sentence against them at the very Lists, that both should be banish'd, Lancaster for 10 years, but Mowbray for life, who dy'd at Venice, leaving two sons behind him in England. Whereof Thomas Earl Marshal and Earl of Nottingham (for he had no other titles) upon raising a conspiracy was beheaded by Henry of Lancaster, who had possest himself of the Crown, under the name of Henry 4. But his brother and heir John, by the favour of Hen. 5. was restor'd; and being for some years after stil'd only Earl Marshal, and Earl of Nottingham, upon Hen. 6.'s coming to the Crown, was by virtue of a Patent granted by Rich. 2. as son of Thomas Duke of Norfolk his father, Rot. Parl. 3 Hen. 6. and heir to Thomas his brother, declar'd Duke of Norfolk, by authority of Parliament. He was succeeded by his son John, who dy'd in the first year of Edw. 4. and he also by his son of that name, who in the life-time of his father was by Hen. 6. created Earl of Surrey and Warren. Parl. 17. Edw. 4. Whose only daughter Anne was marry'd to Richard Duke of York, K. Ed. the 4.'s young son, and with her had a grant from his father of the titles of Norfolk, Earl Marshal, Warren, and Nottingham. But both he and his wife being made away very young, Rich. 3. K. of England conferr'd the title of Duke of Norfolk, and the authority of Earl Marshal, upon24 John Howard, who was found Kinsman and one of the heirs of Anne Dutchess of York and Norfolk above-mention'd. For his mother was one of the daughters of that first Tho. Mowbray Duke of Norfolk, and K. Edw. 4. had advanc'd him to the dignity of a Baron. This John was kill'd in the battel of Bosworth, fighting valiantly for Richard against Hen. 7. His son Thomas (who by creation from Rich. 3. was Earl of Surrey 25) was by K. Hen. 8. restor'd to his father's title of Norfolk 26, after he had routed the Scotch-army27 at Floddon, wherein James 1. K. of Scots was slain. In memory of which victory, it was granted to the family of the Howards, that in the middle of the White Bend in their Arms there should be added, In an Escocheon Or, An honorary Escocheon in the Arms of the Howards. a demy Lion shot through the mouth with an arrow, within a double tressure adorn'd with Lilies on both sides Gules: which comes very near to the Arms of the Kings of Scotland. He was succeeded by his son Thomas 28, whom our own Age saw toss'd about with the ebbs and flows of Fortune. His grandchild Thomas, by his son Henry (which Henry was the first of our English Nobility that grac'd his high birth with the ornaments of Learning) being attainted of High-Treason for endeavouring a match with Mary Queen of Scots, and in the year 1572. beheaded,See in the Adages of Hadr. Juu. Achilleum votum. was the last D. of Norfolk. From which time his posterity has as it were lay dead; but now, by the favour and bounty of K. James, begins to revive and flourish again.
There are in this County about 660 Parish-Churches.
ADDITIONS to NORFOLK.
THE County of Norfolk is so call'd from its Northern situation, with respect to the rest of the East-Angles, whereof it was a part. Our Author recommends it for its being very populous, having (as he observes) 27 markets, and 625 villages. But if we may trust the Book of Rates of Taxes to the King, the esteem it hath upon that account may be rais'd much higher; for there we find 32 markets, and 711 villages: whether Mr. Camden was mistaken in the number, or this increase have been since his time, I dare not say. What he has observ'd of its being a Nursery of Lawyers, as it is confirm'd by many instances, so particularly by the great Sir Henry Spelman, from whom Spede confesses he receiv'd his description of Norfolk. After that, he drew up an entire description of this his native County; and upon his authority principally depends the greatest part of the following remarks.
[a] To begin with our Author; Thetford Thetford. is no doubt the ancient Sitomagus; but whether that be corruptly written Simomagus and Sinomagus, is not so certain as to bear a positive assertion. It is worth the while to consider, whether there is not something in these names, which should imply its being the Capital city of the Iceni. If we take Simomagus, Ptolemy's Simeni (for so he names the people of those parts) does something favour it: and Sinomagus comes nearer the name Iceni, especially if we may suppose the I cast away, as in Hispani, Spani. Besides, Caesar's calling this people Cenimagni (which Camden, finding them distinctly read Ceni, Agni, is of opinion should be read Iceni, Regni,) farther confirms this conjecture.
[b] As to the relation which Mr. Camden discovers between the initial of the old and present names, (Sit and Thet,) and from thence concludes that the modern name is compounded of the remains of the Roman, and the Saxon ford; there is no grounds for it. For the old Saxon name was Ðeod-ford (not as Mr. Camden writes it Ðeotford, the similitude of t and d probably creating a mistake in some old Copies) which plainly signifies a ford of the people.
This town was famous for being a seat of the Kings of the East-Angles; but whether that fortification with a double trench was the work of the Saxons, our Author leaves to the judgment of others. That incomparable Antiquary, Spelman, thinks it was done by the Danes, who made so considerable a figure in those parts; because the camps of both Romans and Saxons are generally observ'd to be much larger.
An anonymous Author quoted byAntiq. Cant. p. 148. Caius, tells us there was formerly a Great-School, or Nursery of Learning in this place. It may possibly be the same whichHist. Eccl. l. 3. c. 18. Bede hints to, when he informs us how Sigebert (after he was return'd home, and settl'd in his kingdom) built a school for the education of youth, in imitation of what he had observ'd of that nature in France. Whether this passage belongs to Thetford or Cambridge (for the latter lays claim to it, to advance its Antiquity,) is a point too large to be discuss'd here.
Notwithstanding the eminency of the place (which besides the seat of the East-Saxon Kings, the Bishops-See and 8 Monasteries have entail'd upon it, a thing perhaps that few cities can boast of;) yet in 9 Edw 1. it was neither city nor burrow; for that King requiring an account of the cities, burrows, and villages of this Shire, Norwich was the only City return'd, and Yarmouth and Lynne, the only burrows; possibly because such had only that name, as sent Representatives to Parliament, whereas that Privilege was not then granted to this place.
[c] Northeast from hence lyes Buckenham, Buckenham which can scarce be suppos'd to come from bucken beach-trees (as our Author imagines;) but rather from the great number of bucks, with which the neighbouring woods may be easily suppos'd to have been well-stock d, as at this day they do not altogether want them; as for beeches they have few or none.
[d] In the time of Henry 3. it pass'd from the Earl of Arundel to the Tatsals; for then upon default of heir-male, this large estate was divided amongst daughters. Since it came into the family of the Knivets, Philip Knivet (who in Sir Henry Spelman's time was the possessor) had the title of Baronet conferr'd upon him, but the ancient estate was very much gone to decay.
[e] From hence we pass into the Hundred of Forehowe, so call'd from the four hills, upon which are held their meetings (as Sir Henry Spelman has observ'd; and heah in Saxon, is at this day high.) On the Southeast side thereof lyes Wimundham, or Windham, Windham sold by the last of the Knivets of that place to Henry Hobart, Chief Justice of the Common Pleas. There is this Epitaph upon William de Albeney, Butler to K. Henry 1. and founder of a Monastery of Black-Monks there,
[f] At Depeham Depeham in the same Hundred, is a Linden-tree of vast bigness, mention'd and describ'd by Mr. Evelyn, in his Sylva, where he calls it Tillia Colossia Depemensis. To the eye it stands over the other trees when view'd at a distance, as a Giant to so many pigmies. At the foot of it is a spring, which petrifies sticks, leaves, and whatever falls into it.
South from hence is Attilburrough, Attilborough. a place (if John Bramis, a Monk of Thetford, may be credited) of great note and antiquity. He will have it built and fortify'd by Atlynge a King of those parts; and his evidence for it are two Copies of that History which he translated, one in French and the other in old English. But whatever credit this may deserve, 'tis certain that the termination burrough, wherever it occurs, denotes something of antiquity, as a castle, a fort, or such like.
[g] Between this and Norwich is Carleton, Carleton which our Author tells us was held upon condition of carrying a hundred herings bak'd in pies to the King wherever he was. The town of Yarmouth by Charter is bound to send to the Sheriffs of Norwich these hundred herrings, but they are to be bak'd in 24 pies or pasties, and thence deliver'd to the Lord of the manour of East-Carlton, who is to convey them to the King. This is every year duly observ'd to this day, and an Indenture drawn up, the substance whereof is, That upon delivery of these pies to the Lord of the manour, he shall acknowledge the receipt, and be obliged to convey them to the King. I have seen a Copy of one made ten years since, and the same is every year drawn up with the necessary alterations.
At a little distance Eastward is Castor, Castor. the famous Roman camp; which agrees exactly with the description given by Polybius, Vegetius, and others concerning the Roman's ancient way of encampment. The faces for the four gates are still manifestly to be seen. The Porta Praetoria lookt toward the east, opposite to which (without the Porta Decumana, and close by the river's side) there still remain some ruins of a tower. The walls enclosing the camp were of flint and very large bricks.
[i] From hence we are carried to Norwich, Norwic [...] the original of which name seems plainly to be from the castle there. For though it cannot be deny'd but ƿic (as Mr. Camden observes) signifies as well a bosom of the sea, a station for ships, and a village; as a castle; yet the circumstances seem here to determine it to the last sense. For the initial North being a relative term, must have something directly contrary to answer it: whereas we meet with no bays or bosoms on the south-side; but not above three miles south we find the remains of an ancient royal castle, which still keeps some footsteps of antiquity in its name of Castor.
Now from hence the age of the town does in some measure appear. For if it took its name from the castle, 'tis evident it must be of less antiquity. The castle indeed, one would imagine from the circular [Page 397-398] form of the ditch and vast compass of it, to have been either Danish or Norman; but that there must have been one earlier, is clear both from the Saxon original, and a charter of Henry 1. directed to Harvey first Bishop of Ely, whereby that Church is absolv'd from all services due to the Castle of Norwich. Now (as Sir Henry Spelman very well observes) such services could not be impos'd, whilst the lands were in the hands of the Bishops, Monks, &c. and by consequence must needs become due whilst in the hands of some secular owner; (and the last was Tombertus, Governour of the Southern Girvii, who bestow'd them upon his wife Aetheldreda, foundress of the Monastery of Ely, about the year 677.) So that from hence it appears, that the age of this castle reaches at least so low, and perhaps much lower. The reason why the Church-lands were exempt from services, seems to be express'd in the Laws of Edward the second, because the prayers of the Church ought to be look'd upon as more effectual than secular assistance. The City is honour'd by making up one of the many titles of his Grace Henry Duke of Norfolk, whose father was created by King Charles the second, in the 24th of his Reign, Earl of Norwich.
[k] From hence the river leads us to Redeham, [...]m. a small village upon the same river, so call'd from the reeds growing in the marshy grounds thereabouts. Here it was that Lothbroc the Danish Noble-man landed, being by a sudden storm driven from his own coast, whilst he was a hawking; and finding entertainment at King Edmund's Court, then at Castor, liv'd there till he was murther'd by the King's huntsman. Upon the news, his sons (though the murtherer had been sufficiently punish'd) and with 20000 men to revenge the death of their father, waste the whole kingdom of the East-Angles, and on the 20th of Novemb. An. 870. barbarously murther the King of it. By this account, Redeham must be of elder date than Yarmouth; because if this h [...]d been then built, Lothbroc had no doubt stopt there for assistance and directions.
[l] At Yarmouth, the river Thyrn likewise empties it self into the sea, upon which stands Blickling, B [...]k [...]i [...]g. famous (as our Author observes) for the ancient family of the Cleres. It was first more famous for that of the Bolens, of which family was Thomas Bolen, Earl of Wiltshire; and Anne Bolen wife to Henry 8. and mother to Queen Elizabeth was born here. It came to the Cleres by marriage with the daughter of James Bolen, uncle to Queen Elizabeth, and by Edward Clere, Knight of the Order of St. Michael, was sold to Sir Henry Hobart, who built there a stately house.
[m] Near the place where this river runs into the sea, it makes up one side of a Peninsula, call'd at this day Flegg. [...]egg. The soil is fruitful, and bears corn very well; and here the Danes seem to have made their first settlement, both because it is nearest their landing, and pretty well fortify'd by the nature of the place, as being almost encompass'd with water; as also because in that little compass of ground we find 13 villages ending in by, a Danish word signifying a village, or dwelling-place. And hence the Bi-lagines of the Danish writers, and our by-laws here in England, come to signifie such Laws as are peculiar to each town or village.
[n] Not far from hence, lyes Gimmingham, G [...]ming [...]m. where the ancient custom of Tenure in Soccage (as Sir Henry Spelman observes) is still kept up; the Tenant not paying so much in money, but so many days work.
Farther toward the north, is Gresham, [...]ham. which gave name to a family of that name, render'd particularly eminent by Sir Thomas Gresham, founder of Gresham-College and the Royal-Exchange in London.
West of Gresham, at a small distance from the sea, is Mundesley, [...]esley. where some years ago, at a cliff, were taken up some large bones (thought to be of a Monster) which were petrify'd.
Upon the same coast more to the north, lyes Clay, C [...]y. * a port memorable for the son and heir to the King of Scotland, [...]ing. [...]p d. p. 566 being there intercepted An. 1406. in his way to France, by the Sea-men of the place, who made a present of him to King Henry the fourth.
[o] South-west from hence, is Walsingham, famous for the Monastery built there by Richolde, a noble widow, Lady of that manour, about 400 years before the dissolution. Spelman tells us, when he was a child, there was a common story, that King Henry 8. went barefoot thither from Basham (a town lying South-west from hence) and offer'd a neck-lace of great value to the Virgin Mary.Monile. Holl. p. 971. But in the 30th year of the same Henry, Cromwel carry'd her image from hence to Chelsey, where he took care to have it burnt.
Towards the Sea-side are cast up all along little hills, which were doubtless the burying places of the Danes and Saxons, upon their engagements in those parts. Sepulchrum (says Tacitus concerning the Germans) cespes erigit. Those two us'd to bury the whole body, and afterwards raise a hill upon it; the Romans (as appears in Virgil by the burial of Mezentius) made their heap of turf, but only buried the ashes; so that whether they also might not have some share here (especially Brannodunum being so near) cannot be discover'd but by digging. However, our Learned Knight from those circumstances, has rais'd these three observations; first, that the persons bury'd hereabouts must have been heathens, because the Christians follow'd the Jewish way of buryingIn fossi [...]. in low places. For though our word bury (coming from the Saxon byrigan and that from beorg, a hill) denotes a rising ground, as well as the Latin tumulare, yet this is to be reckon'd amongst those many words which Christians have borrow'd from the Heathens, and apply'd to their own Rites and Constitutions. Secondly, 'tis remarkable, that those parts which are now very fruitful in corn, were then uncultivated;Cic. de Leg. sub fin. because the Superstition of the Heathens would not allow them to bury in fields. Thirdly, that this must have been a scene of war between the Danes and Saxons: for in the fields near Creake there is a large Saxon Fortification, and the way that goes from it is to this day call'd blood-gate, as a mark of the dismal slaughter. Hereabouts is also great plenty of the herb Ebulum, which the inhabitants call Dane-blood, as if it were the product of their blood spilt here.
[p] Upon the utmost part of the shore northward is Brannodunum, Brannodunum. where are the plain remains of a a Roman-camp, answering the figure of that describ'd by Caesar (Comment. de Bell. Gall. l. 2.) Castra in altitudinem pedum 12. vallo fossáque duodeviginti pedum munire jubet. All the dimensions of it show that it was not made in a hurry, but was regular and design'd on purpose for a station upon that northern shore, against the incursions of the Saxons. It seems to imply no more by the name than a town upon a river; for dunum (as berig and burg in Saxon) signifies as well a town, as a hill; and the British bran, as well as burne, signifies a rivulet. These two we find confounded in the sirname of Leofrick the Saxon, who is sometimes call'd Dominus de Brane, and sometimes de Burne. Sir Henry Spelman tells us, That there were several coyns dugg up there, of which he had some brought him, as also two little brazen pitchers.
[q] From hence westward is S. Edmunds-Cape; S. Edmund's so call'd from Edmund King and Martyr, who being by Offa made heir by adoption to the Kingdom of the East-Angles, landed with a great attendance from Germany, in some port not far from hence, call'd Maiden-boure, i.e. Thalamus Virginis. But which it should be is not so certain: Hecham is too little and obscure; nor does Burnham seem honourable or large enough to receive such a navy upon that occasion; tho' it must be confess'd that their ships in those times were but small. Lenn seems to lay the best claim to it, both as the most eminent port, and because it is really Maiden-boure, St. Margaret the Virgin being as it were the tutelary Saint of that place. In honour of her, the Arms of the place are three Dragons heads (for she is said with a cross to have conquer'd a Dragon) each wounded with a cross. And their publick Seal has the picture of the Virgin, wounding the Dragon with a cross, and treading [Page 399-400] him under foot, with this inscription round it; Stat Margareta, draco fugit, in cruce laeta.
[r] Down on the west-side of this County lies Hunstanstone, Hunstanstone. Spelman. Icen. MS. where King Edmund resided near a whole year, endeavouring to get by heart David's Psalms in the Saxon language. The very book was religiously preserv'd by the Monks of St. Edmundsbury, till the general dissolution of Monasteries.
Farther southward on the sea-coast lies Inglesthorp, Inglesthorp Lib. MS. cited by Sir Hen. Spelm. so call'd from a village built there by one Ingulph, to whom Thoke the great Lord of these parts gave his only daughter in marriage: tho' perhaps it may be as probably fetch'd from Ingol, a little river which runs into the sea there.
[s] East of Inglesthorp, at a little distance from the shore, lies Sharneburne, Sharneburne. whereof one Thoke was Lord when Felix came to convert the East-Angles. Upon his conversion to Christianity, he built here a Church dedicated to S. Peter and S. Paul. It was very little, and (according to the custom of that age) made of wood, for which reason it was call'd Stock-Chapel. Our Author tells us, the Lord of this manour at the Conquest recover'd his estate, which had been given to Warren by the Conquerour, in a legal Tryal. His name was Edwin, a Dane, who came over with Canutus, An. 1014. and had it by marrying an heiress of Thoke's family. It appears by a MS. quoted by Sir Henry Spelman, that his plea against Warren was, That he had not been aiding or assisting against the King, directly or indirectly, either before, at, or after the Conquest; but all that while kept himself out of arms. And this he was ready to prove whenever the King pleas'd.
[t] From hence towards Mershland, we go to Len, Len. for it is falsly call'd Lynne; nor has it the name (as Mr. Camden imagines) from hlyn the British word, denoting the waters round it; but, as Spelman affirms from Len, in Saxon a farm, or tenure in fee; so Fanelhen among the Germans is the tenure or fee of a Baron; and Len Episcopi is the Bishop's farm. He farther observes (tho' I could never meet with any such word amongst our English-Saxons) that the word Len is us'd also in a more limited sense by the Saxons to signifie Church-lands, and appeals to the several names of places wherein that sense of the word holds. And farther, Ter-llen (it seems) in Welsh is Terra Ecclesiae. After the original of the name, our Author observes that there were two Lens, one Bishop's Len, on the east-side of Ouse, and the other on the west, King's Len; whereas the first is both the Len-Regis, and Episcopi. Till the time of K. Hen. 8. it was call'd Len-Episcopi, as being in the hands of the Bishop of Norwich; but that King exchanging the Monastery of S. Bennet of Hulme and other lands with the revenues of the Bishoprick, this amongst the rest came into the hands of the King, and so with the possessor chang'd it's name into Len-Regis.
[u] As to the Sword, there is no doubt but they have such a thing, tho' whether given by K. John is very much to be question'd. For first, they tell you it was given from K. John's side to be carry'd before the Mayor, whereas he did not grant them a Mayor, but only a Provost [Praepositus]; and the privilege of a Mayor was granted by K. Hen. 3. as a reward for their good service against the Barons in the Isle of Ely. Besides, K. John's Charter makes no mention of the Sword; so that 'tis plain it was given by Henry 8. who (after it came into his hands) granted the town several privileges, chang'd their Burgesses into Aldermen, and granted them a Sword (whereof express mention is made in the Charter) to be carry'd be [...]ore their Mayor.
I find a loose paper of Sir Henry Spelman's, dated Sept. 15. 1630. to this purpose; That he was then assur'd by Mr. Tho. Kenet Town-Clerk of Len, that one John Cooke the Sword-bearer about 50 years before, came to Mr. Ivory the School-master, and desir'd him, because one side of the hilt of the town-sword was p [...]ain, and without any inscription, that he would direct how to engrave upon it, that King John gave that Sword to the town. Whereupon, he caused the said Thomas Kenet, being then his scholar, to write these words, Ensis hic fuit donum Regis Johannis à suo ipsius latere datum; after which the Sword-bearer carry'd the writing to one Cooke a goldsmith, and caus'd him to engrave it. So that by this account, whatever Inscription of that nature may be now upon it, is of no authority.
It hath at present a very large Church with a high spire, built by Bishop Herbert, G dw [...]n. de Prae [...] [...]. who also built the Cathedral at Norwich, with the Church of Yarmouth and Elmham: and all this was done by way of pena [...]ce, after Symony had been charg'd upon him by the See of Rome.
The town hath no fresh-water springs; but is supply'd partly by a river from Gaywood (the water whereof is rais'd by Engines, and from thence some conduits in the town are supply'd) and partly by water convey'd in leaden pipes; one from Middleton about 3 miles, the other from Mintlin, about 2 miles off.
[w] From Len we must pass over the Ouse into Mershland, Mersh [...]and. which is a Peninsula, being almost surrounded with navigable rivers and an arm of the sea. The even superficies, and other circumstances, seem to argue it's being formerly recover'd from the sea by the industry of the ancient inhabitants. In Mr. Camden's time it was so much expos'd to inundations, that the best-contriv'd banks could scarce preserve it. And Sir Henry Spelman tells us, that within his memory, there was two general overflows, one of salt and the other of fresh water. By the latter (as appear'd upon oath taken before the Commissioners appointed to inspect that affair, whereof Sir Henry was one) the inhabitants suffer'd 42000 pound damage. For the water did not then break down the bank (as at other times) but ran over it, at least a whole foot. They are within a few years fallen upon an expedient, which 'tis hop'd will prove a good defence to the most dangerous and weakest parts; a substantial brick-wall with earth, which (where it was well contriv'd) hath resisted two or three years tides. If it continues, it may set a value upon some estates, whose rents were almost annually laid out upon the old way of imbanking.
The quantity of it is about 30000 acres, and the soil turns to more account by grass than corn. The many ditches drawn through all parts of it, make it look as if cut to pieces; and over them are no less than cxi. bridges. The whole in the widest part, by measure, is but 10 miles over.
[x] Tylney-Smeeth, Tyl [...]e [...]-Smee [...]h. is a plain so fruitful, that tho' it be not any way above 2 miles over, yet it serves for pasture to all the larger cattel belonging to the 7 villages; and for 30000 sheep besides.
[y] Leaving Mershland, and crossing the Ouse, Downham Downh [...]m. lies in our way, so call'd from it's hilly situation (for dun signifies a hill, and ham a dwelling.) In some old Records it is call'd Downeham-hithe, i.e. Downeham-port, referring to the river upon which it s [...]nds. The privilege of a Market belonging to this place is of very ancient date, for it is confirm'd by Edward the Confessor.
A little more northward is Stow-Bardolf, Stow B [...]rdolf. where Nicholas Hare built a stately house; but Hugh Hare, brother to Nicholas, was he who so much improv'd the estate; and dying without marriage, left above 40000 pound between 2 nephews.
Not far from hence lies West-Dereham, West-D [...]eham. famous for the birth of Hubert Walter, who being bred up under the famous Lord Chief Justice Glanville, became Archbishop of Canterbury, Lord Chancellour under K. Rich. 1. Legate to Pope Celestine 4. and Lord Chief Justice of all England. The respect he had for the place, oblig'd him to build a Religious-house there, wherein (as a piece of gratitude for the many favours he had receiv'd) he order'd that they should constantly pray for the soul of his great patron, Ralph de Glanvilla.
Farther northward, Rising Rising. is very remarkable; so call'd from the high hill there. Upon it is a castle, and a vast circular ditch; the form whereof (according to Procopius's description) answers the Gothick manner of fortifying; and therefore 'tis probably a work of the Normans, who are descended from the Goths. The Saxons indeed made their fosse circular, but then it was more narrow, less deep, and [Page]
[Page] [Page 401-402] generally of greater circumference. But the Romans also seem to have had something of a fortification here; the shore being much expos'd to pyracies (wherein the Saxons show'd themselves great masters;) and the place as it were guarding and overlooking one of the best harbours in those parts. Besides, there was dug up near this place a coyn of Constantine the Great, which Sir Henry Spelman says was brought him.
At a little more distance from the sea, is Congham, Congham. honour'd with the birth of Sir Henry Spelman, that great Oracle of Law, Patron of the Church, and glory of England.
More inwards is Rougham, Rougham. the seat of the Yelvertons, of whom William under Hen. 6. Christopher under Qu. Elizabeth, and Henry under K. Charles 1. were Lord Chief Justices of England.
Next is Babbingley; Babbingley whither Felix, the Apostle of the East-Angles, coming about the year 630. converted the inhabitants to Christianity, and built the first Church in those parts, whereof succeeding ages made S. Felix the patron. Some remains of this passage are still found in the adjoyning mountains call'd Christian-hills; and in Flitcham, F [...]it [...]ham. a neighbouring place, which imports as much as the village or dwelling-place of Felix.
[bb] Removing from the sea-coast towards the south-east, Narburgh Narburgh. lies in our way; the termination whereof seems to suggest something of Antiquity, and the place it self answers the name. For there is an old Fortification, and from hence to Oxburgh has been a military foss, tho' it be now levell'd in some places. But what puts it beyond dispute is, that Sir Clement Spelman, contriving an Orchard at the foot of the hill, digg'd up the bones of men in great abundance, and likewise old pieces of armour.
[cc] Upon the north-side of the Hier, stands Elmham, E [...]ham. which till within these two ages was never under the jurisdiction of any secular Lord. For under the Heathens, 'tis said to have been the habitation of a Flamin, and after their conversion to Christianity by Felix, it came into the possession of the Bishops. The See was first at Dunwich, but when it was thought too great for the management of one, it was divided into two Dioceses, the one to reside at Dunwich for Suffolk, and the other at Elmham for Norfolk.
[dd] Directly south is East-Dereham, East Dereham. call'd also Market-Dereham, which having been almost all burnt to the ground, is now rebuilt into a fair town; and Hingham, another market town not far from it, hath had both the same disease and cure.
[ee] About 4 miles from Ic-burrough lies Weeting, Weeting. near Brandon-ferry; wherein is an old wasted castle moated about; and at a mile's distance eastward, is a hill with certain small trenches or ancient fortifications, call'd Gimes-graves, of which name the inhabitants can give no account. On the west-side of this place, from the edge of the Fen arises a bank and ditch, which running on for some miles, parts that bound of Weeting from Wilton and Feltwell; and is call'd the Foss.
In the fields of Weeting, is a fine green way, call'd Walsingham-way, being the road for the pilgrims to the Lady of Walsingham. And about a mile from the town, north, is another like it from Hockwold and Wilton, upon which are two stump crosses of stone, supposed to be set there for direction to the pilgrims.
Continuation of the EARLS and DUKES.
By the Attainder of the last Thomas, the title of Duke of Norfolk being taken away, Philip his eldest son was call'd only Earl of Arundel, by descent from his mother: and he being attainted of High-Treason for favouring the Popish party, had the sentence of death pass'd upon him; but his execution being forborn, he dy'd in the Tower An. 1595. His son and only child Thomas was created Earl of Norfolk Jun. 6. 20 Car. 1. and dy'd at Padua An. 1646. leaving two sons, Henry and Thomas, whereof Henry succeeded his father; and he likewise was succeeded by Thomas his eldest son in his Titles of Earls of Arundel, Surrey, and Norfolk, who at the humble petition of several of the Nobility, was May 8. 13 Car. 2. restor'd to the title of Duke of Norfolk. Which is now, among others, enjoy'd by Henry Howard, Earl Marshal of England.
More rare Plants growing wild in Norfokl.
Atriplex maritima nostras Ocimi minoris folio. Sea-Orrache with small Basil leaves. Found by Dr. Plukenet near Kings-Lynne.
Acorus verus sive Calamus Officinarum Park. The sweet-smelling Flag or Calamus. Observed by Sir Thomas Brown in the river Yare near Norwich. See the Synonymes in Surrey.
Lychnis viscosa flore muscoso C. B. Sesamoides Salamanticum magnum Ger. Muscipula Salamantica major Park. Muscipula muscoso flore seu Ocymoides Belliforme J. B. Spanish Catchfly. By the way-sides all along as you travel from Barton mills to Thetford, plentifully.
Spongia ramosa fluviatilis. Branched river-sponge. In the river Yare near Norwich.
Turritis Ger. vulgatior J. B. Park. Brassica sylvestris foliis integris & hispidis C. B. Tower-mustard. In the hedges about the mid-way between Norwich and Yarmouth.
Verbascum pulverulentum flore luteo parvo J. B. an mas foliis angustioribus, floribus pallidis C. B. Hoary Mullein. About the walls of Norwich.
Vermicularis frutex minor Ger. Shrub Stonecrop. This was shew'd us by Sir Thomas Brown of Norwich, who had it from the sea-coast of Norfolk. See the Synonymes in Glocestershire.
Urtica Romana Ger. Park. Roman Nettle. At Yarmouth by the lanes sides not far from the Key.
N. Travelling from Lynne to Norwich, I observed by the way side not far from Norwich the Medica sylvestris J. B. which is usually with a yellow flower, and therefore called by Clusius Medica frutescens flavo flore, to vary in the colour of the flower, and to become purplish like the Burgundy Trefoil or Sainct-foin.
CAMBRIDGESHIRE.
MORE into the Country lies the County of Cambridge, by the Saxons call'da Grentbrigg-scyre, and by the common people Cambridge-shire; stretch'd lengthways to the north. It borders upon Norfolk and Suffolk on the east, Essex and Hertfordshire on the south, Bedford and Huntingdon Shires on the west, and Lincolnshire on the north: the river Ouse running from west to east, crosses, and divides it into two parts. The south and lower part is more improv'd, better planted, and consequently more rich and fertil; sufficiently plain, but not quite level, chiefly, or indeed wholly (setting aside that part which plentifully produces Saffron) consisting of Corn-fields, abundantly stor'd with the best Barley, of which they make great quantities of Byne or Malt,Byne, Malt. by steeping it till it sprout again, then drying it over a Kiln: and this serves us to make Beer of. The inhabitants drive a gainful trade with this into the neighbouring Counties. The [Page 403-404] north and farther part, by reason of the floods, fens, and the many islands made by rive [...]s, is call'd the Isle of Ely; abounds with rich pastures, exceeding fresh and pleasant, but however somewhat hollow and spungy, by reason of the waters that undermine it; which sometimes overflow, and drown the greatest part of it [a].
One of the Roman high-ways (call'd Erming-streat in the Ely-book) runs along the west-side of the lower part, and carries us directly to Huntingdon, by Royston, Royston. a town on the borders of this County,See H [...]rtfordsh [...]re. of some note, but of no antiquity;b which we spoke of before: and likewise through Caxton, Caxton. formerly the Baronage of Stephen de Eschallers, from whose posterity it descended to the Frevills in the time of Henry 3. and from them by the Burgoins to the Jermins. Nor is Gamlinghay far off, the habitation formerly of the Avenells, whose whole estate fell by marriage to that ancient family of St. George; a family, that since Henry 1. has produc'd many worthy Knights, who liv'd at Hatley, from them call'd Hatley St. George. Hatley St. George.
More westward there is a little river which runs through the middle of this part from South to North, to mix with the Ouse; beginning at Ashwell, and passing with many windings by Shengay Shengay. (where are the most pleasant meadows of the County) formerly aA C [...]mmande [...]y. Praeceptory of the Knights Templars, given by Sibyl daughter of Roger Mont-gomery Earl of Shrewsbury, and wife of J. de Raines, in the year 1130. a little way off Burne-castle,Burne. which was anciently the Barony of one Picot Sheriff of this County,Barons of Burne. and also of the Peverills, Barnwell-Hist. by one of whose daughters the Inheritance and Honours sell to Gilbert Peche; the last of which family, after he had advanc'd his second wife's children,The King heir to private persons. made King Edward the first his heir. In those days the English Nobility brought up the ancient Roman custom in the time of their Emperors, of making their Princes heirs whenever they were out of favour. This Castle was burnt down in the Barons war in Henry the third's time, set on fire by one Ribald de Insula, or L'Isle; and at the same time Walter of Cottenham, a great man, was hang'd for rebellion. It's uncertain how former writers have call'd this river; some by the name of Grant, but others Cam, which to me seems most probable, because 'tis so crooked, for the Brittish word Cam signifies as much, whence a crooked river in Cornwal is call'd Camel; and also because old Camboritum Camboritum. (a town mention'd by Antoninus in his third Journey in Britain) stood upon it, as I am almost perswaded both by its distance and name, and also the great number of Roman coins found nigh the bridge. For Camboritum signifies a ford over Cam, Rith, its signification in British and Gaulish. or a crooked ford; the word rith in the British language signifying a ford. I mention this, that the French may better understand the meaning of Augustoritum, Darioritum, Rithomagus, and the like, in their own Country. However the Saxons had rather use Grant-ceasterGrantcester. and Gront-ceaster for our Camboritum; and though it retains this name still, I can't find the derivation of it. To derive it from the Saxon word* Gron, The meaning of Gron. a fenny place, might be a mistake; and yet Asserius more than once has call'd some fenny grounds in Somersetshire, Gronnas paludosissimas, which is a mixture of Saxon and Latin; and 'tis well known that a city in West-Friezland, in the like situation, is call'd Groneingen. But let others hunt after the Etymology of it. About the year 700, this was, saith Bede, a little desolate city, when he tell us, that just by its walls was found a little trough or coffin of white marble delicately wrought, with a lid of the same, most exactly fitted for it. Now 'tis a small village, part whereof Henry Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, gave to his bastard-son Henry, upon condition that all his posterity (which have been long since extinct) should take no other name but Henry. King Henry the sixth of the House of Lancaster, and heir to Lacie's estate, settled the other part upon his own College, call'd King's in Cambridge;Cambridge. which town is either a part or a sprig of the ancient Camboritum, 'tis so nigh it in name and situation. Nor am I apt to believe that Cam was ever turn'd out of Grant, for this would look like a change too forc'd and strain'd, where all the letters are lost but one. I should rather think that the common people had kept to the old name of Camboritum, or the river Cam, though indeed writers more commonly use the Saxon wordc Grantbridge. This City, the other University, the other Eye, and Stay of the Kingdom, this excellent Magazine of all good Literature and Religion, stands on the river Cam, which after it has most pleasantly sprinkl'd its west side with several little Isles, turns to the east, divides it into two parts; so that 'tis joyn'd by a bridge, which hath given it that new name of Cambridge. Beyond the bridge there is a large old castle (which may now seem to have come to its last thred) and Magdalen-College. On this side the bridge (where lyes the far greatest part of the town) there's a pleasant prospect of the form of the Streets, of the number of Churches, and of sixteen fair Colleges, the Muses sacred Mansions, wherein great numbers of worthy learned men are maintain'd, and where the Studies of Arts and Languages so mightily flourish, that they may deservedly be term'd the very fountains of all Literature, Religion, and Learning, which most sweetly scatter their wholesom streams through all the Gardens both of Church and State. Nor is there any thing wanting that is requir'd in a most flourishing University, were not the Air a little too gross by reason of its fenny situation. But perhaps the first founders of it in this place, were of Plato's opinion, who being of a strong constitution himself, made choice of the Academy for his studies, a very unwholesom place in Attica, the better to keep under the stubborness of the body, that it might not too much clog the brain. However, our Ancestors, men of singular wisdom, have dedicated this place to their learned studies not without divine direction, and have adorn'd it with many noble buildings.
That we may not seem guilty of the worst sort of ingratitude to these eminent Patrons of Learning, or (to use Eumenius's words) those Parents of our Children, let us briefly out of the Cambridge History make mention of themselves, and their Colleges,Colleges. consecrated to good literature and their own lasting fame. The story goes that Cantaber a Spaniard, 375 years before Christ, first founded this University, and that Sebert K. of the East-Angles restor'd it in the year of our Lord 630. Afterwards it was a long time neglected, and lay bury'd in the Danish troubles, till all things reviv'd under the Norman Government. Soon after,d Inns, Hostels, and Halls were built for Students,John Cai [...] tho' still without any Endowments. But Hugh Balsham Bishop of Ely, founded the first College, call'd Peter-house, in the year 1284. and endow'd it [b]. Whose example was imitated by these following persons; Richard Badew, with the help of the Lady Elizabeth Clare Countess of Ulster, founded Clare-hall, in the year 1340 [c]. The Lady Mary St. Paul Countess of Pembroke, Pembroke-hall, in the year 1347 [d]; the Society of Friers in Corpus-Christi, Corpus-Christi, call'd also St. Benet's-College, in the year 1346 [e]; William Bateman Bishop of Norwich, Trinity-hall, about the year 1353 [f]; Edmund Gonevil in the year 1348, and John Caius Dr. of Physick in our time, Gonevil and Caius-College [g]; Henry the seventh King of England, King's College, with a Chapel deservedly reckon'd one of the finest buildings in the world, in the year 1441 [h]; the Lady Margaret of Anjou his wife, Queen's College, in the year 1448 [i]; Robert Woodlark, Katherine-hall, in the year 1459 [k]; John Alcocke Bishop of Ely, Jesus-College, in the year 1497 [l]; The Lady Margaret 1 [Page 405-406] Countess of Richmond, and mother to Henry the seventh, Christ-College [m], and St. John's, about the year 1506, now fairly enlarg'd with new buildings [n]; Thomas Awdley Lord Chancellor of England, Magdalen-College, in the year 1542, since enlarg'd and endow'd by Sir Christopher Wrey Lord Chief Justice of England [o]; the high and mighty Prince Henry the eighth, Trinity-College, in the year 1546, out of three others, St. Michael's College, built by Hervie of Stanton in Edward the second's days; King's-hall, founded by Edward the third; and Fishwick's-Hostel. That the Students might have a more delightful habitation, this College is now repair'd, or rather new-built with that splendour and magnificence, by the great care of T. Nevill its worthy Master, and Dean of Canterbury, that it is now for spaciousness, for uniformity and beauty in the buildings, scarce inferiour to any in Christendom; and he himself may be counted truly [...], in the judgment even of the greatest Philosopher, for neglecting private Interests, and laying out such large sums on the publick [p]. I cannot but congratulate our present age, and our selves too, in respect of ingenuous Learning, and in that worthy and prudent man Sir Walter Mildmay, one of the Queen's honourable Privy-Council, who has founded a new College dedicated to Emanuel [q]; and in the Lady Frances Sidney Countess of Sussex [r], who by her last Will gave a Legacy of five thousand pound to the founding of a College to be call'd Sidney-Sussex, which is now quite finish'd [s].
I shall say nothing of the Monasteries and Religious Houses, since they were but of small note, except it be Barnwell-Abby, Barnwell. which Sir Payne Peverell a famous Soldier and Standard bearer to Robert Duke of Normandy in the holy-war, in Henry the first's reign, remov'd from St. Giles's Church (the place of Picot the Sheriff's Institution of Secular Priests) to this place, and brought in 30 Monks, according to the years of his age at that time. If you please you may find the reason of its name in the private History of this place.Pa [...]well H [...]ry. Payne Peverell obtain'd a grant of Henry 1. for a spot of ground without the Burrough of Cambridge; in the midst of it were extraordinary clear fountains or wells, in English call'd Barnwell, that is, the Wells of Children, or Barns, as they were then call'd, for young men and boys met once a year upon St. John's Eve for wrestling and the like youthful exercises, according to the customs of the land, and also to make merry together with singing and other musick. Now by this means (the concourse of boys and girls, that met here for sport) it grew a custom for a great many buyers and sellers to repair hither at the same time e.
Tho' Cambridge was consecrated to the Muses, yet it has not always escap'd the furies of Mars; for when the Danes ravag'd up and down, they often took Winter-quarters here: and in the year 1010, when Sueno the Dane had with a desperate rage born down all before him, neither it's Fame nor the Muses could protect it, (tho' we read that Athens met with a better fate from Sylla,) but it was all barbarously laid in Ashes. However, at the first coming in of the Normans it was reasonably well peopl'd; for we find in William the Conquerour's Domesday-book, that the Burough of Grentbridge is divided into ten Wards, and contains 387 dwelling-houses, but 18 of 'em were pull'd down to build the Castle [t], when William 1. determin'd to erect Castles in all parts, to be a curb to his new-conquer'd English [u]. It likewise suffer'd very much afterwards in the Barons wars by those Out-laws from the Isle of Ely; therefore Henry 3. to put a stop to their incursions, order'd a deep ditch to be thrown up on the East-side of the town, which still goes by the name off King's-ditch. Here possibly some may secretly expect to hear my opinion concerning the antiquity of this University; but I'll not meddle in the case, nor am I willing to make any comparisons between our two flourishing Universities, which have none to rival them that I know of. I'm afraid those have built castles in the air that have made Cantaber the founder of this University, immediately after the building of Rome, and long before Christ's time; straining the antiquity beyond all probability. This is undeniable, let its original be when it will, that it began at last to be a Nursery for Learning about the reign of Henry 1. which appears by an old Appendix of Peter Blesensis to Ingulph. Joffred made Abbot of Crowland 1109. Abbot Joffred sent over to his manour of Cotenham nigh Cambridge, Gislebert his fellow-Monk and Divinity-Professor, with three other Monks, who follow'd him into England, well furnish'd with Philosophical Theorems and other primitive Sciences, and daily repair'd to Cambridge: there they hir'd a publick barn, made open profession of their Sciences, and in a little time drew a great number of scholars together. In less than two years time, their number increas'd so much, from the country as well as town, that there was never a House, Barn, or Church big enough to hold them all. Upon which they dispers'd themselves in several parts of the town, imitating the University of Orleans. For soon in the morning, Frier Odo an excellent Grammarian and Satyrick-Poet, read Grammar to the boys and younger sort, according to the Doctrine of Priscian and Remigius upon him. At one of clock, Terricus a subtile Sophister, read Aristotle's Logick to the elder sort, according to Porphyry's and Averroe's Introductions and Comments. At three of clock, Frier William read Lectures in Tully's Rhetorick and Quintilian's Flores; and Gislebert the principal Master preach'd to the people upon all Sundays and Holy-days. Thus from this small fountain we see large flowing streams, making glad the City of God, and enriching the whole kingdom by many Masters and Teachers, coming out of Cambridge as from the holy Paradice, &c.
Concerning the time when it was first made an University, Robert of Remington shall speak for me.† In the reign of Edward 1. Grantbridge from a School was made an University like Oxford, by the Court of Rome. But why do I so inconsiderately run into the lists, where two such learned old men have formerly encounter'd? to whom I freely deliver up my arms, and pay all the respect and honour I am able, to such venerable persons. Cambridge Meridian is 23 degr. and 25 min. from the west;g and the Arch of the same Meridian, between the Equator and Vertical point, is 52 degr. and 11 min. [w]2.
Hard by Cambridge to the South-East, are certain high hills, by the Students call'd Gogmagog-hills, Gogmagog Hills. by Henry of Huntingdon, the most pleasant hills of Balsham, from a village at the foot of them, where, as he says, the Danes committed all the Barbarities imaginable. On the top of all I saw there a fortA Fort. of considerable bigness, strengthned with a threefold trench, and impregnable in those days, according to the opinion of several judicious warriors, were it not for its want of water; and some believe it was a Summer retreat either of the Romans or the Danes. This seems to be the place that Gervase of Tilbury calls Vandelbiria; Below Cambridge, says he,Wandlesbury. there was a place call'd Vandelbiria, because the Vandals when they ruin'd some parts of Britain, and cruelly destroy'd the Christians, did there encamp themselves; pitching their tents upon the top of a little hill, where lyes a plain surrounded with trenches, with only one entrance, and that like a gate. As for his Martial Ghosts walking here, which he mentions, I shall say nothing of them, because it looks like a foolish idle story of the fantastick Mob. It's none of our business, as one says, to tickle mens ears with plausible stories [x]. In a valley nigh these hills lyes Salston, Salston. which fell to Sir John Nevill Marquess of Mont-acute, from the Burghs of Burgh-green, by Walter de la Pole and the Ingalthorps; and by his daughter the sole heiress, to the Huddlestons, who liv'd here in great credit.
More Eastward we meet with Hildersham, belonging formerly to the Bustlers, but now by marriage to [Page 407-408] the Parises; and next to the Woods stands Horsheath, Horsheath. which is known for many Descents to belong to the ancient and noble families of the Argentons and Arlingtons, which Ig mention'd in another place; and is now the seat of the latter. Next this lies Castle-camps, Castle-camps. the ancient seat of the Veres Earls of Oxford, held by Hugh Vere (says the old Inquisition records) that he might be Chamberlain to the King. However, 'tis most certain that Hen. 1. granted this Office to Aubry de Vere, Cameraria Angliae, Lord g [...]eat Chamberlain. in these words, — Chief Chamberlain of England in fee, and hereditarily with all the powers, privileges, and honours belonging thereto, with as much freedom and worship as ever Robert Mallet held it, &c. However, the Kings at their own pleasure have appointed sometimes one, and sometimes another, to execute this Office3. Not far off there are the remains of those great and large Ditches which were undoubtedly thrown up by the East-Angles to prevent the incursions of the Mercians, who frequently ruin'd all before them.Flems-dyke and others. The first begins at Hingeston, and runs eastward by Hildersham towards Horsheath for 5 miles together. The second, next to it, call'd Brent-Ditch, runs from Melborne by Fulmer. But 'tis now time to return, and leave these and the like frontier-fences to be spoke of in their proper places.
Sturbridge-Fair.Nigh Cambridge to the east, by a small brook call'd Sture, yearly in September, there is the most famous Fair kept in all the Kingdom, both for resort of people and quantity of goods. Just by it, where the ways were exceeding troublesome and almost impassable, that worthy right-honest Gentlemanh G. Hervy Doctor of Laws and Master of Trinity-Hall in Cambridge, with vast charge, out of a pious and laudable design, has lately made a very fair rais'd Causey, for about 3 miles long, leading to New-market.
At the end of this Causey there is a third Ditch,Ditches. thrown up in old time, beginning at the east side of the Cam, which runs by Fenn-Ditton (or rather Ditchton from the foremention'd Ditch,) between great Wilberham and Fulburn as far as Balsham. At present it is commonly call'd Seven-mile-Dyke, because it lies seven miles from New-market; formerly call'd Fleam-Dyke, Fleam-ditch. as much as to say Flight-Dyke, as it seems from some remarkable flight at this place. The same Wilberham, anciently Wilburgham, was formerly the seat of the Barons L'Isle ofDe rubeo monte. Rongmount, a very ancient family, of which one John for his brave behaviour in war, was made one of the first Knights of the Garter by Edw. 3. There is now an heir-male of the same family, a reverend old man, with a good stock of children, nam'd Edmund L'Isle, still Lord of this place.
Five miles more inward to the east, is the 4th Fortification or Ditch, with a Rampart, the largest of all, call'di Devils-Dyke Devils-ditch. by the common People, because they look upon it as a work of Devils rather than Men, and Rech-Dyke by others, from Rech a little market-town at the beginning of it. Questionless this is the same that Abbo Floriacensis speaks of in his Description of the East-Angles, From the same part where the Sun declines to the west this Province joyns to the rest of the Island, and consequently there's a clear passage; but to prevent the enemies frequent incursions, it is defended by a bank like a lofty wall, and a deep Ditch. This, for many miles together, crosses that plain that goes by the name of Newmarket Heath, a place most liable to invasions, beginning at Rech, beyond which the Country is fenny and impassable, and ending just by Cowlidge, where the woods stop all marches. It was then the bounds of the Kingdom, as well as of the Bishoprick of the East-Angles. It is uncertain who was the founder of such a mighty work; later writers ascribe it to K. Canute the Dane, tho' in truth Abbo, who mentions it, dy'd before Canute began his reign;Abbo dy'd in the year 1003. Sigebertus. [...]anutus began his reign in 1018. and the Saxon Chronicle, where it treats of Athelwolf's Rebellion against Edward the Elder, calls it simply the Ditch. It says, that King Edward destroy'd all the Country between the Ditch and the Ouse as far as the North fens, and that Athelwolf the Rebel, and Eohric the Dane were killed in the same battel. But the writers since Canute have call'd it St. Edmund's Liberty, and St. Edmund's Ditch, supposing that Canute made it, because a most devout adorer of St. Edmund the Martyr, who (to make amends for his father Swane's horrid cruelty to them) had granted to the Religious of St. Edmundsbury vast privileges, as far as this very Ditch: whence William of Malmesbury, in his book of Prelates, says, That the Custom-Officers in other places fall out madly without considering right or wrong; but on this side St. Edmund's Ditch the modest Suppliants immediately put a stop to all quarrels. Sure enough these two last mention'd Bulwarks were call'd St. Edmund's Ditches; for Matthew Florilegus declares, that the battel against Athelwolf was fought between St. Edmund's two Ditches.
Nigh Rech, lies Burwell, Burwell. where was a Castle, which in those troublesome times of K. Stephen was bravely attack'd by GeoffryDe magna villa. Mandevil Earl of Essex (a person who lost much honour by his unjust invasion of others rights) till an arrow pierc'd his head, and freed those Countries from their tedious jealousies. Scarce two miles off, stands Lanheath, for many years the seat of that worthy family of Knights the Cottons 4: and a little off that, lies Isleham, Isleham. a town formerly belonging to the Bernards, which came to 'em by marriage with the knightly family of the Peytons, Peytons. from whose male line sprang the Uffords (the same which produc'd the Uffords Earls of Suffolk) as appears by their Coats of Arms; tho' indeed they took the sirname of Peyton, according to the customs of those times, from Peyton a little town in Suffolk, their seat for many years.
Upon the same Ditch stands Kirtling, Kirtling. likewise call'd Catlidg, now remarkable for the principal seat of the Barons North, Barons North. of which Edward North was the first, whom Queen Mary, for his merits, invested with that title. It is famous for an ancient Synod held here, 977 when the Clergy had a mighty contest about the celebration of Easter [y].
The upper and north part of this Shire is all over divided into river-isles (branch'd out by the many flowings of ditches, chanels, and drains,The Fens a [...]d l [...] of Ely.) which all summer long afford a most delightful green prospect; but in winter-time are almost all laid under water, farther every way than a man can see, and in some sort resembling the sea it self.
The inhabitants of this and the rest of the fenny Country (which reaches 68 miles from the borders of Suffolk to Wainflet in Lincolnshire, containing some millions of acres in the four Counties of Cambridge, Huntingdon, Northampton, and Lincoln) were call'd Girvii Girvii. in the time of the Saxons; that is, according to some mens explanation, Fen-men; a sort of people (much like the place) of brutish unciviliz'd tempers, envious of all others, whom they term Upland men, and usually walking aloft upon a sort of stilts: they all keep to the business of grazing, fishing, and fowling. All this Country in the winter-time, and sometimes for the greatest part of the year, is laid under-water by the rivers Ouse, Grant, Nen, Welland, Glene, and Witham, for want of sufficient passages. But when they once keep to their proper chanels, it so strangely abounds with a rich grass and rank hey (by them call'd Lid) that when they've mown enough for their own use, in November they burn up the rest, to make it come again the thicker. About which time a man may see all the moorish Country round about of a light fire, to his great wonder. Besides, it affords great quantities of Turf and Sedge for firing, Reeds for thatching; Elders also and other water-shrubs, especially Willows either growing wild, or else set on the banks of rivers to prevent their overflowing: which being frequently cut downInnumero h [...]reat profuerunt. come again (to use Pliny's expression) with a numerous off-spring. 'Tis of these that baskets [Page 409-410] are made, both here and in other places: and because the Britains call'd 'em Baskades, I here observe by the by, that I don't understand Martial in that place of his Apophoreta, if he does not mean these:
Besides these, there grow large quantities of ScordiumS [...]dium. or Water-Germander, upon the banks of Ditches. As for these fenny Isles, Felix, an ancient writer, has describ'd them thus; There is a wonderful large Fen, beginning at the banks of the river Gront, overgrown here with Sedge, there with dusky springs, at a third place is woody Isles, and takes a long course by many crooked banks, from the south towards the north as far as the sea. It is the same that William a Crowland Monk has thus describ'd in his life of Guthlake:
If you please, add thus much out of Henry of Huntingdon. This fenny Country is mighty rich and delightful, plentifully water'd with rivers, sufficiently garnish d with lakes of all sorts, and as much adorn'd with shady groves and islands. — Take this little from William of Malmesbury: Here is such vast store of fish, as all strangers wonder at; for which the inhabitants laugh at them: nor is there less plenty of water-fowl; and for a single half-penny five men may have enough of either, not only for a taste, but a competent meal.
I shall say nothing of the sound and wholsome advice was concerning the draining of these fens; (which yet was perhaps nothing but a specious pretence of doing good to the publick,) so often mov'd in Parliament. It is to be fear'd they'd soon return to their old state, as the Pontine Marshes in Italy have often done after their draining. So that some think it the safest way, [...]sanias [...] Corinth. to follow the Oracle's advice in the like case, Not to venture too far where heaven has put a stop.
The natural strength of this place, and the plenty of provisions every where, has often made it a retreat for rebels: not only the English against William the Conquerour; but also the Barons whenever they were out-law'd, from hence molested their Kings; but were always unsuccessful, tho' they erected forts at Eryth and Athered, now Audre, [...]udre. where is an open passage into the Isle. And to this day there's a rampart nigh Audre, not high, but very large, call'd Belsar's hills, from one Belisar; but what he was I know not.
The south and largest part of this fenny Country, which belongs to this Shire, was call'd by the Saxons Elig, now the Isle of Ely, [...]y. from the chief of these Islands. Bede derives it from it's Eels, and therefore some have call'd it the Isle of Eels. k Polydore Virgil derives it from [...], which signifies a Marsh; others from Helig, a British word signifying Willows or Sallows, which it bears in abundance; and they are the only thriving trees here. We find that one Tombert K. of the South-Girvii, setled a great part of this Country upon his wife Etheldred for a joynture, who after she had left her second husband Egfrid K. of Northumberland for Christ's service, [...]. Ethel [...]red, com [...] St. [...]ua [...]y. founded a Nunnery in that chief Isle properly call'd Elyg, which was then valu'd after the rate of 600 families; of which place she her self was the first Abbess. However, this was not the first Chu [...]ch in the fens; for the Ely-book mentions our St. Austin as the founder of a Church at Cradiden, Cradiden. which afterwards was ruin'd by Penda the Mercian; and Malmesbury says, that Felix Bishop of the East-Angles had his first seat at Soham, Soham. still in Norwich diocese. Soham, says he, is a village situated by a fen, formerly very dangerous to water-passengers from thence to Ely, but now passable by foot men, by reason of a causey made through the marshes and reeds. There is still the ruins of a Church demolish'd by the Danes, wherein the inhabitants were overwhelm d, and burnt with it. At the same time St. Audry's Nunnery fell a prey to the fury of the Danes, but was restor'd by Ethelwold Bishop of Winchester, who, by agreement with the King, bought the whole Isle, ejected the Priests, and fill'd it with Monks; to whom King Edgar, as we find in his Letters Patents. gave jurisdiction in secular causes over two Hundreds in the fens, and over five Hundreds and an half out of the fens in Wicklow, in the province of the East-Angles, which to this day is call'd St. Audry's Liberty. St. Audry's Liberty. After that, Kings and Noblemen richly endow'd it with large revenues; especially Earl Brithnoth, who being then ready to engage the Danes in the year 999,Ely-book. gave to this Church of Ely, Somersham, Spaldwic, Trumpinton, Ratindum, Heisbury, Fulburn, Tmerston, Triplestow, and Impetum, (because these Monks had treated him nobly) if he dy'd in that battel. He was kill'd at last at Maldon, after he had fought with the Danes fourteen days together. It was so rich a Monastery, that the Abbot (says Malmesbury) yearly put 1400 pound into his own pocket. And Richard the last Abbot, Earl Gislebert's son, intoxicated as it were with money, and d sdaining to be under the Bishop of Lincoln, fell to work upon the King with golden promises (as the Monks write) and indefatigable industry, to have him e ect a Bishoprick at this place; but his sudden death hinder'd it. But soon after, Hen. 1. got leave of the Pope, and made Hervy Bishop of Bangor in Wales, and then abouts ejected by the Welsh, the first Bishop of Ely; to whom and his successors, he laid out Cambridgeshire for the diocese, which before was part of that of Lincoln; and likewise settl'd upon theml some marks of Soveraignty in these Islands He gave the Bishop of Lincoln the manour of Spaldwic, to make him amends for Cambridgeshire and this Isle; or, as the Ely-book has it, The manour of Spaldwic was setled upon the Church of Lincoln for ever, in lieu of the episcopal care over Grantbridgeshire. Assoon as Hervy was setled in his Bishoprick, he made it his chief care to raise the grandeur of his Church. He got it to be made toll-free in all places (saith Ely book,) freed it from that burthen of watching and warding, the duty it ow'd to Norwich-Castle: He made the way from Exning to Ely, above six miles through the fens5, and purchas'd many a fair estate for the Church s use. His successors, by lessening the number of Monks (for from 70 they brought 'em to 40,) and by the plenty of all things, overflow'd with wealth and riches, even till our fathers days; and their Holydays and Festivals were always celebrated with such great provisions and pomp, that they won the prize in that point from all the Monasteries in England. Whence a Poet in those times not improperly says,
The Cathedral also, which began to totter with age, they built by degrees, and brought it to that magnificence it now has: 'tis a spacious, stately, and beautiful structure, but somewhat defac'd by shamefully breaking down the Noblemens and Bishops tombs. Now, instead of the full Convent of Monks, there is a [Page 411-412] Dean, Prebendaries, and a Free-school for the teaching and maintaining 24 boysm; there are four things about this Church much talk'd of by the common people; the Lantern, on the top of all, just over the Quire, supported by eight pillars with singular art, hung by John de Hothum the Bishop; St. Mary's Chapel, standing under the Church to the North, a delicate piece of work, built by Simon Montacute Bishop; a great round heap of earth and very high, call'd The Mount, on the South-side, where a Wind-mill stands; lastly, a famous fruitful Vine, which is now wither'd. Which four were joyn'd together in these Rhimes by a certain Monk of the place:
As for Ely it self, it is a pretty large city, but not much remarkable either for beauty or populousness, by reason of its fenny situation and unwholesom air6 [z].
Amidst the same fens, to the North-west, was a famous Abby, from its standing among thorns and bushes, call'd Thorney, Thorney. formerly Ankerige, from the Anchorites dwelling there; where Sexuulph, a very religious devout man (as it is in Peterborough-book) founded a Monastery with Hermits Cells. It was afterwards ruin'd by the Danes, but Ethelwold Bishop of Winchester, to encourage the Monastick way of living, rebuilt it, stor'd it with Monks, and encompass'd it with trees. This place (says Malmsbury) is the very picture of Paradise, for pleasantness resembling Heaven it self; amidst the very marshes fruitful in trees, whose straight tapering tallness emulates the stars; a plain, smooth as water, charms your eyes with pleasing green, where's no rub to stop the swiftest pace. There's not an inch of ground uncultivated; here a place swelling with apple-trees, there a field overspread with vines, either creeping upon the ground, or climbing up poles to support them. A mutual strife there is between nature and husbandry, that one may always supply what the other forgets. What shall I say of the beauty of the buildings, to be admir'd if it were only for the fenns making such solid and unshaken foundations? It is a wonderful solitary and retir'd place, fit indeed for Monks, it makes them more mindful of heavenly things, and more mortify'd to things below. 'Tis a prodigy to see a woman here, and when but a man comes, he's welcom'd like an Angel. So that I may truly call this Isle a Lodge for Chastity, an Harbour for Honesty, and a School for Divine Philosophy.
Wisbich, Wisbich. the Bishop of Ely's castle, stands about 13 miles off, situated among fens and rivers, and lately made a prison for the Romish Priests. I have nothing more to say of it, but only that this Town and Walepole Walepole were both given to Ely-Monastery by the owner of them, at the same time that he dedicated his little son Alwin to a monkish life; that William the first erected a castle here, when the out-laws made their incursions from these fenny parts; and that in the year 1236, the tempestuous waves for two days so violently broke in upon this shore, that it drown'd both land and people all about. But the Brick-castle that is still there, was built by John Morton Bishop of Ely in our grandfathers days, who also drew a straight ditch through this fenny Country, call'd Newleame, Newleame. for the better convenience of water-carriage, and for encreasing the trade and wealth of this his town; tho' indeed it hapn'd to the contrary, for it is but of small use, and the neighbours mightily complain that this has quite stop'd the course of the Avon or Nen into the Sea, by Clowcross. Clowcr [...]ss.
The first Earl of Cambridge Earls of Cambridge was William brother of Ranulph Earl of Chester, as may be seen by a Patent of Alexander Bishop of Lincoln, dated 1139. After him, 'tis probable that those Earls of Huntingdon, that were of the royal blood of Scotland, were likewise Earls of Cambridge; for it appears from the publick records of the kingdom, That David Earl of Huntingdon receiv'd the third penny of the County of Cambridge. A long time after, John of Hainault, brother to William third Earl of Holland and Hainault, was advanc'd to this dignity by Edward 3. for the sake of Queen Philippa, whose Kinsman he was. For her sake also, he honour'd William Marquiss of Juliers, 1399 her sister's son, with the same title, after John had revolted and gone over to the French. After the decease of these Forreigners, King Edward 3. settled this Honour upon his fifth son Edmund of Langley, which after he had held four years, (I have my authority from an old manuscript belonging to that admirable Antiquary Francis Thinn) The Earl of Hainault, Queen Philippa's Cousin, came and openly claim'd it in Parliament; but he return'd satisfy'd at last. This Edmund of Langley, afterwards Duke of York, had two Sons, Edward Duke of York, for a while Earl of Cambridge, and slain in the battel of Agincourt; and Richard, created Earl of Cambridge by the meer favour of Henry 5. and consent of his own brother Edward. But after this perfidious and ambitious man ungratefully conspir'd against the life of that best of Princes, and so lost his head; the title of Earl of Cambridge was either lost with him, or lodg'd among the titles of his son Richard, afterwards Duke of York, and restor'd to all his dignities, as being Kinsman and Heir to his Uncle Edward Duke of York.
This Shire contains 163 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to CAMBRIDGESHIRE.
Improvements of the County.[a] THE County of Cambridge, in Saxon Grantabrycgscyr (not as our Author Grentbriggscyre) and by later writers, according to the several ages wherein they liv'd, call'd Cantebrigesire, Grantebridgescire, Cantebriggeschire; has of late years had two very considerable improvements, of its soil and air: the first by planting great quantities of Saintfoine (which is brought from foreign parts, and thrives only in very dry and barren ground;) the second by draining the fens in the Isle of Ely, a work that was carry'd on at vast expence, but has at last turn'd to a double account, both in gaining much ground, and mending the rest; and also in refining and clearing the air, and in a great measure taking away thatUnder the title Cambridge. Caeli gravitas è palustri situ, mention'd by our Author.
Our Author in describing the chief place in it, Cambridge, Cambridg [...] has hardly allow'd it so much compass, as the dignity of so famous an University and Nursery of Learning requires. So that 'tis no more than justice to be a little more particular upon their several Foundations, and the improvements that have been made upon them since his time, both in buildings and otherwise.
[b] Peter-house Peter-h [...]us [...] seems to have been built some time before 1284. to which year our Author refers it. ForHistory of this Un [...] versity, p. 1 Fuller (upon whose authority these accounts principally depends) tells us that Hugh Balsham (when he was only Prior of Ely) began the foundation of this house (about the year 1257.) without Trumpingtongate [Page 413-414] near the Church of St. Peter, from which it seems to have taken the name. But all the advantage the Scholars had at first, was only the convenience of Chambers, which exempted them from those high rents the Townsmen had us'd to exact of them. What our Author I suppose refers to, is the endowment (which was settl'd by the same Hugh when Bishop, in 1284.) for a Master, fourteen Fellows, &c. which number might be increas'd or diminisht, according to the improvement or abatement of their revenues.
[c] So likewise the first date of Clare-hall Cla [...]e hall. (tho' not the name) is to be carry'd higher than 1340. For this Richard Badew built before that, a house call'd University-hall, wherein the Scholars liv'd upon their own expence for 16 years together, till it was burnt down by a casual fire. The founder finding himself unequal to the charge of rebuilding it, had the assistance of Elizabeth, third sister and coheir of Gilbert Earl of Clare, by whose liberality it was built up again and endow'd. It is at present one of the neatest and most uniform Houses in the University; having been lately new built all of Free-stone.
[d] Pembroke-hall Pembroke-h [...]. was founded by Mary de S. Paul, third wife to Audomare de Valentia Earl of Pembroke. For her husband being unhappily slain at a Tilting on the wedding-day, she entirely sequester'd her self from all worldly delights; and devoting her self to God, amongst other pious acts built this College, which was afterwards much augmented by the benefactions of others.
[e] Bennet-College B [...]et-C [...]ge. arose out of two Guilds or Fraternities: one of Corpus-Christi, and the other of the blessed Virgin. These two, after long emulation, being united into one Body, by a joint interest built this College, which has its name from the adjoyning Church of St. Benedict. Their greatest modern Benefactor was Matthew Parker, once Master of the College, and afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury, who by his prudent management recover'd several Rights of the College; and besides two Fellowships and five Scholarships, gave a great number of excellent Manuscripts to their Library.
[f] Trinity-hall Tri [...] ty-h [...]. was built upon a place that once belong'd to the Monks of Ely; and was a house for Students before the time of Bishop Bateman, who by exchange for the Advowsances of certain Rectories, got it into his own possession. He was a great Master of Civil and Canon Law; and so the Master, two Fellows, and three Scholars (the number he appointed at the first Foundation) were oblig'd to follow those two Studies. It has been since very much augmented by Benefactions, and the number of its members is proportionably encreas'd.
[g] Caius-College Cai [...]s. was at first call'd Gonvil-hall, and was built upon the place where now are the Orchard and Tennis-Court of Bennet-College.F [...]er's H [...]t. of Cambr. p. 5 [...]. But within five years it was remov'd into the place where it stands at present, by Bishop Bateman. Some time after, John Caius Doctor of Physick, improv'd this Hall into a new College; since call'd after his own name.
[h] King's-College King's. was at first but small, built by Henry the sixth for a Rector and twelve Scholars. There was near it a little Hostle for Grammarians built by William Bingham, which was granted by the Founder to the said King Henry for the enlargement of his College. Whereupon he united these two, and having enlarg'd them by addition of the Church of St. John Zachary, founded a fair College for a Provost, seventy Fellows and Scholars, three Chaplains, &c.
[i] Queen's-College Queen's. was begun by Queen Margaret; but the troublesome times coming upon her, would not give her leave to compleat her intended fabrick. The first Master of it Andrew Ducket, by his industry and application procur'd great sums of money from well-dispos'd persons towards the finishing of this work; and so far prevail'd upon Queen Elizabeth, wife to King Edward the fourth, that she perfected what her profess'd Enemy had begun.
[k] Catharine-hall Catharine-hall. was built by Richard Woodlark, third Provost of King's College, over against the Carmelites house, for one Master and three Fellows; and the number encreas'd with the Revenues. About one half of it is lately new-built; and when 'tis finisht, it will give place to none in point of beauty and regularity.
[l] Jesus-College Jesus. was made out of an old Nunnery dedicated to St. Radegund; the Nuns whereof were so notorious for their incontinence, and so generally complain'd of, that King Henry 7. and Pope Julius the second bestow'd it upon John Alcock, Bishop of Ely, to convert it into a College; who establish'd in it a Master, six Fellows, and six Scholars. But their numbers, by the great benefactions they have had, are very much encreas'd.
[m] Christ's-College Christ's. was built upon the place where God's-house formerly stood; and was endow'd by Margaret Countess of Richmond; who settl'd there a Master, and twelve Fellows, &c. which number being complain'd of as savouring of Superstition by alluding to our Saviour and his Apostles, King Edward the sixth alter'd, by the addition of a thirteenth Fellowship; along with some new Scholarships. This College within about these forty years has been adorn'd with a very fine new building by it self.
[n] St. John's-College St. John's. had the same Foundress; and was built upon the place, where An. 1134. Nigel or Neal, second Bishop of Ely, founded an Hospital for Canons Regular, which by Hugh de Balsham was converted into a Priory dedicated to St. John; and by the Executors of the said Countess of Richmond, into a College, under the name of the same Saint. For she dy'd before it was finisht, which retarded the work for some time; but it was afterwards carry'd on by her said Executors.
[o] Magdalen-College Magdalen's. is cut off from all the rest, and stands by it self on the North-west side of the river. Some years ago they had begun a pretty piece of new-building, which when well nigh finisht, was given over.
[p] The magnificence of Trinity-College, Trinity. mention'd at large by our Author, has since been improv'd by a most noble and stately Library, begun under the government of the late famous and learned Dr. Isaac Barrow: a building, for the bigness and design of it, perhaps not to be match'd in the three kingdoms.
[q] Emanuel-College Emanuel. was built in a place where was formerly a Convent of Dominicans founded in the year 1280. by the Lady Alice Countess of Oxford. After the suppression of Monasteries, this Convent came into the possession of one Mr. Sherwood, of whom Sir Walter Mildmay seems to have purchas'd it. It has a very neat Chapel, not long since built by the late Archbishop of Canterbury, and others.
[r] Sidney-Sussex-College, Sidney-Sussex. tho' it owe its rise to the Charity of the Lady Frances Sidney, and the care of her Executors, is exceedingly improv'd by the benefactions of Sir Francis Clerk, who, besides a set of new-buildings, augmented the Scholarships, and founded four Fellowships with eight Scholarships more; and of Sir John Brereton, who left to it by Will above 2000 pound.
[s] The Schools Schools. of this University were at first in private houses hir'd from ten years to ten years for that purpose by the University; in which time they might not be put to any other use. Afterwards, Publick Schools were built at the charge of the University, in or near the place where they now stand. But the present fabrick, as it is now built of brick and rough stone, was erected partly at the expence of the University, and partly by the contributions of several Benefactors.
The Library Library. was built by Rotheram Archbishop of York, who (together with Tonstal, Bishop of Durham) furnisht it with choice Books; few whereof are to be found at present. But the Libraries of the three Archbishops, Parker, Grindal, and Bancroft, did amply compensate the loss of the former.
[t] And thus much of the University. The Castle, mention'd by our Author, was strong and stately, having in it, amongst other rooms, a most magnificent Hall.Caius l. 2. p. 117. The stones and timber were afterwards begg'd of Henry 4. by the Masters and Fellows of King's hall, towards the building of their Chapel. Nothing isFuller. p. 2. now standing but the Gate-house, [Page 415-416] which is the Prison; and an artificial high hill deeply entrench'd about, of a steep ascent, but level at the top.
Between the Conquerour's time and the Barons war, Roger of Montgomery destroy'd this Town with fire and sword, to be reveng'd of William Rufus; but King Henry 1. to repair those damages, bestow'd many Privileges upon it; particularly, freed it from the power of the Sheriff, making it a Corporation, upon the payment of 101 marks yearly into the Exchequer; which sum the Sheriff paid before for his profits out of the town when it was under his jurisdiction. And, what seems to have been of most consequence, the Ferry over the river (which before was left at large) began to be fix'd near this place; which probably might have something of the same effect, as building new bridges and turning the course of roads have had inSee Salisbury in Wiltshire, Wallingford in Berks, &c. other parts of England.
[w] A mile north of Cambridge is Arbury Arbury. or Arborough (in the territories of Chesterton) whereAubr. MS. is a large camp, of a figure inclining to a square. There have been Roman Coins found in it; one particularly of silver, with the head of Rome on one side, and on the reverse Castor and Pollux on horseback. The adjoyning Chesterton has probably it's name from this Camp or old Castrum.
[x] On another side of Cambridge, at a little distance, are Gogmagog-hills Gogmagog-hills. Ibid. where the Camp mention'd by our Author seems to be a British work. It has three rampires and two graffs between (as the usual way is) being very large and rudely circular; and the Diameter of it is no less than 246 paces. 'Tis on the hill (as the British way of encampment was,) and 'tis probable enough that the antagonist to it might be at Arborough; which from the form, coins, and nearness of water (a thing that people was particularly careful of) must have been done by the Romans. Near the Camp there runs a Roman highway from the brow of the hill southward.
[y] Upon the edge of Suffolk is Catlidge, Catlidge. which our Author makes famous for a Synod, An. 977. The Saxon Annals make it at Kyntlingtune by a mistake for Kyrtlingtune, which I infer not only from the similitude of n and r, but also from the Copyist not understanding the language (for 'tis taken out of Canterbury-Copy,) and from our later Historians calling it Kyrtlinege, Kirding, and Kirling. The name, with the circumstances, would perswade us to see for it at Kyrtleton in Oxfordshire: for as to the difference between the old and new name, that is inconsiderable; andChron. Sax. sub An. 977. we are told that Sideman Bishop of Devonshire (for so he is there stil'd) dy'd at this Synod, and was bury'd at S. Mary's at Abingdon. Now, he had no manner of relation to this Church, and therefore we may imagine the only reason why King Edward and Archbishop Dunstan pitch'd upon it for his burial, was the nearness; especially, seeing they did it contrary to his own express desire when alive, which was, that he might be interr'd at his own Church of Cridiantun or Kirton. But if he had dy'd at Catlidge, they might have found a more convenient Monastery for that purpose, I mean Peterborough, no less eminent and much nearer; unless Abingdon might be more eligible upon this account, that it was within the kingdom of the West-Saxons.
[z] In the Parish of Sutton, Sutton. some few miles from Ely, about the middle of April last, 1694. there were several pieces of Antiquity discover'd in ploughing. The share of the plough laid hold of a thin plate of Lead, and brought up along with it several small ancient Coins: this led them to a farther search, and upon one's thrusting his hand into the earth (for it was a light moorish soil) he found three silver plates. The two biggest were fastned with a round silver wire that ran through the midst of them and lock'd them together. One of the plates has an Inscription round it, very slightly and obscurely engrav'd. Upon a sight of it, I presently perceiv'd it to be Saxon by the two first words drihten, drihten, and several others; tho' some of them I could not reduce to any thing I had met with in that language; nor fix any entire natural sense upon the whole. In the same place they found three twisted rings; and one plain, which was brought out upon a poor woman's finger, as she thrust her hand into the earth to search, and sold at a good price. It lay very near the surface of the earth, and loose in the mould; as did also several small pieces.
Continuation of the EARLS.
Next Richard son to Edmund Langley Duke of York (the last Earl mention'd by our Author) that title was conferr'd upon James Marquess of Hamilton in the year 1619. who was succeeded by James his eldest son, and afterwards by William his second son; who receiv'd a mortal wound at Worcester-fight, and dy'd without issue-male surviving: so that the honour died with him. After the Restoration, this title was conferr'd upon Charles Stuart (eldest son to James then Duke of York) who was stil'd Duke of Cambridge; and afterwards upon his three brothers, James, Edgar, and Charles, who all dy'd young.
More rare Plants growing wild in Cambridgeshire.
K. Acinos Anglicum Clus. English Stone-Basil, or common Stone-Basil; for these differ only accidentally. In the ploughed lands on the borders of Gogmagog hills and Newmarket heath.
S. Aloe palustris C. B. i.e. Militaris aizoides Ger. Water Sengreen, or Freshwater-Souldier. In the rivers and fen-ditches in many places of the Isle of Ely: as in the river and ditches near Stretham-ferry, and about Audreycausey.
Alsine tenuifolia J. B. Fine-leaved Chickweed. In the corn-fields on the borders of Triplow-heath, and elsewhere.
Alysson Germanicum echioides Lob. Aparine major Ger. German Madwort or Great Goose-grass. It once grew plentifully at Newmarket, (vid. Cat. Cant.) but being an annual plant, I hear it is now lost there: possibly it may agpear again hereafter.
K. Anagallis aquatica rotundifolia Ger. aquat. tertia Lob. Round-leaved Water-Pimpernel. On Teversham, Hinton, and Trumpington moors in the ditches, and by the water-courses plentifully.
Anagallis foemina Ger. coeruleo flore C. B. Park. Female or blue-flower'd Pimpernel. In the corn on the left-hand of the way leading to Histon a little beyond the first closes.
Aparine minor semine laeviore. Goose-grass with smoother seed. Very common among the corn, especially in chalky grounds. Q. An Aparine semine laevi Park.
E. Argemone capitulo longiore glabro Moris. Long, smooth-headed bastard-poppy. In the corn.
Ascyron supinum villosum palustre C. B. Park. Marsh S. Peter's wort, with hoary leaves. On the boggy grounds near Gamlingay.
Auricula muris pulchro flore albo J. B. Caryophyllus holosteus Ger. holosteus arvensis hirsutus, flore majore C. B. holosteus arvensis hirsutus Park. Long-leaved rough Chickweed with a large flower. On heaths and dry banks among bushes, and in gravelly ground. See Cat. Cant.
Bifolium palustre Park. Marsh Twayblade. On the boggy and fenny grounds near Gamlingay.
Camelina Ger. Camelina sive Myagrum alterum amarum Park. Myagrum siliqua longa C. B. Myagro affinis planta siliquis longis J. B. cui & Erysimum Galeni & Theophrasti cenfetur. Treacle-Wormseed. In the Osier-holts about the bridge at Ely abundantly; and in all the other Osier-grounds by the rivers side there.
Carduus acaulis Lob. acaulis Septentrionalium Park. ac. minore purpureo flore C. B. ac. minor purp. flore Ger. emac. Chamaeleon exignus Tragi J. B. Dwarf Carline-thistle. Upon the level near the new Pest-houses. This occurs in most Counties of England, but not very common.
Carduus tomentosus, Corona fratrum dictus Park. item C. tomentosus Anglicus ejusdem. Capite tomentoso J. B. eriocephalus Ger. emac. item globosus capitulo latiore ejusdem. capite rotundo tomentoso C. B. item tomentosus capitulo majore ejusdem. Woolly-headed Thistle. In many closes about Madingley, Childerley, Kingston, &c.
Caryophyllus minor repens nostras. An Caryophyllus Virgineus Ger. Maiden Pinks. On a little hill where Furze grows, next to Juniper-hill near Hildersham.
Caucalis arvensis latifolia echinata C. B. item lato Apii folio ejusdem. Apii foliis, flore rubente Ger. arvensis latifolia purpurea Park. item Anglica flore rubente ejusdem. item major saturè rubente flore ejusdem. Lappula canaria latifolia, sive caucalis J. B. Purple-flower'd great Bastard Parsley. Among the corn in many places of this County; as, between Cambridge and Cherry-Hinton, and near the Windmill in the way to Comberton. This is a beautiful Plant, and we have seldom found it in other Counties.
Chondrilla viscosa humilis C. B. Park. Ger. emac. Lactuca sylvestris laciniata minima Cat. Cant. The least cut-leaved wild Lettice. In a bank by a little lane-side leading from London road to the river, a little beyond the Spittle-house end at Cambridge.
Conyza foliis laciniatis Ger. emac. helenitis foliis laciniatis Park. Aquatica laciniata C. B. Great jagged Fleabane. In the Fen-ditches about Marsh and Chatteresse in the Isle of Ely.
Conyza palustris Park. palustris serratifolia C. B. Virgae aureae sive solidagini angustifoliae affinis, lingua avis Dalechampii J. B. Marsh Fleabane or Birds-tongue. In the Fen-ditches and banks in the Isle of Ely, but more rarely.
Convolvulus arvensis minimus. The least Bindweed. Among the corn between Harleston and little Eversden.
Crocus J. B. sativus C. B. True or manured Saffron. It is frequently planted and cultivated in this County. See Essex.
Cyperus longus inodorus sylvestris Ger. long. inod. vulgaris Park. long. inod. sylv. Lobelio J. B. long. inod. Germanicus C. B. Long Bastard Cyperus. In the watery places of Hinton moor, and in divers Fen-ditches.
Elaeagnus Cordi Lob. Rhus myrtifolia Belgica C. B. Myrtus Brabantica Ger. Rhus sylv. sive Myrtus Brabantica aut Anglica Park. Gale frutex odoratus septentrionalium J. B. Sweet-willow, Gaul, Dutch Myrtle. In the fens in the Isle of Ely in many places abundantly. This is wont to be put among cloaths to communicate a sweet scent to them.
Enula campana Offic. Park. Helenium Ger. vulgare C. B. Helenium sive Enula campana J. B. In the pasture-fields about Madingley, Coton, Barton, &c. in great plenty. Elecampane. It is common to many Counties.
Equisetum palustre ramosum aquis immersum, seu Millefolium aquaticum equisetifolium. Horsetail water Milfoil. In slow or stagnating waters every where almost.
Ferrum equinum Germanicum siliquis in summitate C. B. equinum comosum Park. Ornithopodio affinis vel potiùs Soleae aut Ferro equino herba J. B. Bush-headed Horse shoe Vetch. On Gogmagog hills, New-market heath, and the drier part of Hinton-moor, &c.
Geranium haematodes, foliis majoribus, pallidioribus, & altiùs incisis. Bloody Cranesbill, with larger, paler, and more deeply divided leaves. Found by Mr. Dale on the banks of the Divel's-ditch towards Reche.
Glaux Dioscoridis Ger. Hispanica J. B. Hispanica Clusii Park. Ciceri sylvestri minori affinis si non idem C. B. Dioscorides his Milktare, or Clusius his Spanish Milkwort. On the drier part of Hinton-moor, and almost all over Gogmagog-hills and New-market heath.
Glaux vulgaris Ad. Lob. vulgaris leguminosa, sive Glycyrrhiza sylvestris Park. Glyc. sylvestris floribus luteo-pallescentibus C. B. Foenum Graecum sylvestre sive Glycyrrhiza sylvestris quibusdam J. B. Wild Liquorice, or Liquorice-vetch. About the castle-hill at Cambridge; by the lane's side that leads from Cambridge to Cherry-Hinton, and in many other places.
Glycyrrhiza vulgaris Ger. emac. vulgaris siliquosa Park. siliquosa vel Germanica C. B. radice repente Germanica J. B. Common Liquorice. Planted in good quantity at Elme in the Isle of Ely. From its faculty of quenching or slaking of thirst it is by some called Adipson; and is thought to be the Radix Scythica of Theophrastus, which took away the sense of hunger and thirst from those who held it in their mouths.
Gnaphalium montanum album Ger. mont. flore rotundiore C. B. montanum sive Pes cati Park. Pilosella minor quibusdam, aliis Gnaphalii genus J. B. Mountain Cudweed or Catsfoot. On New-market heath, on the right hand of the road from Cambridge to New-market, about a quarter of a mile from Bottesham beacon, and in other places of the heath in great plenty.
Gratiola angustifolia Ger. emac. angustifolia sive minor Park. Hyssopifolia C. B. aquatica J. B. Small Hedge-hysop or Grass-Poley. In the corn-fields and shadowy lanes about Hoginton and Histon; and in many places about Cambridge.
K. Herba Paris Ger. J. B. Park. Herb-Paris or Herb True-love. In Kingston and Eversden woods.
Hieracium latifolium Pannonicum 1. Clus. 1. latifolium Clusii Ger. Pannon. latif. 1. Clusio, Pilosellae majori, vel Pulmonariae luteae accedens &c. J. B. Alpinum latifolium hirsutie incanum, magno flore C. B. Broad-leaved Hungarian Hawkweed. On the banks of the Devil's-ditch near Reche not far from New-market.
Hieracium minus Cichorei vel potiùs Stoebes folio hirsutum Cat. Cant. Hier. Castorei odore Monspeliensium. Small rough Succory-hawkweed smelling like Castor. In the pastures between Cambridge and Grantcester, not far from the river.
Holosteum medium Eliense foliis rigidioribus glaucis. Caryophyllus holosteus foliis gramineis Mentzel. forte. The middle sort of Stichwort. It grows plentifully on the Fen-banks in the Isle of Ely.
Jacobaea montana angustifolia lanuginosa, non laciniata C. B. Pannonica folio non laciniato J. B. angustifolia Ger. emac. angustifolia Pannonica non laciniata Park. Narrow-leaved mountain Ragwort. On Gogmagog hills and New-market heath.
Juncus palustris panicula glomerata ex rubro nigricante Cat. Cant. semine Lithospermi Bot. Mon. Round black-headed Marsh-Rush or Bog-Rush with Gromill seeds. Every where in the watery places of Hinton and Teversham moors.
Lathyrus major latifolius Ger. emac. major perennis Park. major latifolia, flore purpureo speciosior J. B. latifolius C. B. Pease everlasting. In Madingley wood, and other woods.
Linaria adulterina Ger. emac. montana flosculis albicantibus C. B. Linariae similis J. B. Pseudo-linariae montana alba Park. Bastard Toadflax. On Gogmagog-hills and New-market heath, but scatteringly.
Linum sylvestre caeruleum perenne erectius flore & capitulo majore. Wild perennial blue Flax with larger heads and flowers. On the borders of the corn-fields about Gogmagog-hills, and in some closes about Cherry-Hinton.
Linum sylv. caer. procumbens, flore & capitulo minore. Wild perennial blue Flax with smaller heads and flowers. In the same places with the former, observed by Mr. Dale.
Lychnis noctiflora C. B. Park. Ocymoides non speciosum J. B. Night-flowering Campion. Found among corn between New-market and Wood-Ditton.
Lychnis sylvestris flore albo minimo. Lych. sylv. altera spicâ reflexâ Bot. Monsp. arvensis minor Anglica Park. Small corn-Campion with a very small white flower. Found among corn near the Devil's-ditch.
Melampyrum cristatum flore purpureo J. B. an luteum angustifolium C. B. Park.? Purple-headed crested Cow-wheat. In Madingley and Kingston woods, and in almost all the other woods in this County. It also overspreads all the pasture and common grounds you pass through going from Madingley to Dry-Drayton.
Millefolium palustre galericulatum Ger. emac. aquaticum flore luteo galericulato J. B. aquaticum lenticulatum C. B. Hooded Water-Milfoil. In the brook Stour by the Islet it makes: and in many of the great Fen-ditches in the Isle of Ely plentifully. There hath a lesser sort of this with a small flower been observed on Teversham moor.
Onobrychis Ger. vulgaris Park. foliis viciae fructu echinato major C. B. Polygalon Gesneti J. B. Caput gallinaceum Belgarum Lob. Medick-vetchling, Cocks-head, commonly, but falsly call'd Saint Foine. On Gogmagog-hills, and the balks in the Corn-fields all thereabout.
Orchis lilifolius minor sabuletorum Zelandiae & Bataviae J. B. chamaeorchis lilifolia C. B. Dwarf Orchies of Zealand, or rather Marsh-bastard-orchies. In [Page 419-420] the watery places of Hinton and Teversham-moors.
Orchis myodes Ger. myodes galea & alis herbidis J. B. major muscam referens C. B. The Fly Orchies. On the banks of the Devils-ditch, and in the closes about Hinton and Teversham.
Orchis sive Cynosorchis minor Pannonica Ger. militaris Pannonica Park. militaris pratensis humilior C. B. parvis floribus multis punctis notatis, an Orchis Pannon. 4. Clusii? J. B. Little purple-flower'd Dogs-stones. On Gogmagog hills, New market-heath, and particularly on the Devil's-ditch plentifully.
Orchis sive Testiculus sphegodes hirsuto flore J. B. fucum referens colore rubiginoso C. B. The green-winged Humble-bee Satyrion. In an old gravel-pit near Shelford by the foot-way from Trumpington to the Church.
Orchis odorata Moschata sive Monarchis C. B. pusilla odorata Park. parva Autumnalis lutea J. B. The yellow-sweet, or musk-orchies. In the chalk-pit Close at Cherry-hinton, and in some pits about Gogmagog-hills.
Papaver corniculatum vicolaceum J. B. Park. C. B. cornutum flore violaceo Ger. Violet-colour'd horned Poppy. In the cornfields beyond Swafham, as you go to Burwell.
Pimpinella saxifraga hircina major J. B. Park. saxifraga Ger. saxifraga major umbella candida C. B. Great Burnet-saxifrage. In the woods at S. George-Hatley, and in many other woods on the border of Bedfordshire.
Potamogiton ramosum caule compresso, folio Graminis canini. Small branched Pondweed with a flat stalk. In the river Cam.
Potamogiton millefolium seu foliis gramineis ramosum. An gramineum ramosum C. B. J. B. Park. Millefolium tenuifolium Ger. emac. ico. Fine or Fennel-leav'd Pondweed. In the river Cam plentifully.
Pulsatilla Anglica purpurea Park. parad. flore minore Ger. minore nigricante C. B. flore clauso caeruleo J. B. Common or English Pasque-flower. On Gogmagog-hills on the left hand of the way leading from Cambridge to Haveril, just on the top of the hill, also about Hildersham six miles from Cambridge.
Ranunculus flammeus major Ger. palustris flammeus major Park. longifolius palustris major C. B. longo folio maximus, Lingua Plinii J. B. Great Spear-wort. In some ditches at Teversham-moor, and abundantly in many great ditches in the fens in the Isle of Ely.
Ribes nigrum vulgò dictum folio olente J. B. fructu nigro Park. Grossularia non spinosa fructu nigro C. B. Black Currans, Squinancy-berries. By the river-side at Abington.
Rorella sive Ros soliis folis oblongis J. B. Park. folio oblongo C. B. Long-leav'd Rosa solis, or Sun-dew. On Hinton-moor about the watery places plentifully.
Salix humilior, foliis angustis subcaeruleis, ut plurimum sibi invicem oppositis. Salix tenuior, folio minore, utrinque glabro fragilis J. B. The yellow dwarf-willow. By the horse-way-side to Cherry-hinton, in the Close just by the water you pass over to go thither.
Scordium J. B. C. B. Ger. legitimum Park. Water Germander. In many ditches in the Isle of Ely, and in the Osier-holts about Ely-city. Also in a ditch on the left hand of the road leading from Cambridge to Histon, about the mid-way.
S. Sesamoides Salamanticum magnum Ger. The greater Spanish Catchfly. Near the Gravel-pits as you go to the nearest Windmill on the North-side of Newmarket-town. This place may be in Suffolk.
Solanum lethale Park. Ger. melanocerasos C. B. manicum multis sive Bella donna J. B. Deadly Nightshade or Dwale. In the lanes about Fulborn plentifully.
Thalictrum minus Ger. Park. C. B. minus, sive Rutae pratensis genus minus, semine striato J. B. The lesser Meadow-Rue. About Newmarket, and also about Bartlow and Linton in the chalky grounds.
Trifolium echinatum arvense fructu minore C. B. Medica echinata minima J. B. echinata parva recta Park. malè; non enim erigitur. The smallest Hedgehog-Trefoil. In an old gravel-pit in the corn-field near Wilborham Church; also at Newmarket where the Sesamoides Salamanticum grows.
Trifolium sylvestre luteum siliquâ cornutâ, vel Medica frutescens C. B. Medica sylvestris J. B. frutescens sive flavo flore Clusii Park. Yellow-medick with flat wreathed cods. In many places among the corn, as between Linton and Bartlow by the road sides; between Cambridge and Trumpinton near the river; about Quoy Church and Wilborham, &c.
Verbascum nigrum flore è luteo purpurascente C. B. nigrum flore luteo, apicibus purpureis J. B. nigrum Ger. nigrum salvifolium luteo flore Lob. Sage-leav'd black Mullein. In many places about Gogmagog-hills towards Linton, as by the lanes sides, and in the closes about Abington, Shelford, &c.
Veronica picata recta minor J. B. Spicata minor C. B. mas erecta Park. assurgens sive spica Ger. Upright male Speedwell or Fluellin. In several closes on Newmarket-heath, as in a close near the beacon on the left hand of the way from Cambridge to Newmarket.
HƲNTINGDONSHIRE.
AT the back of Cambridgeshire lyes the County of Huntingdon, by the Saxons call'd huntedunescyre, by the common people Huntingdonshire; situated so as to have Bedfordshire on the South, Northamptonshire on the West, as likewise on the North, where it is parted by the river Avon, and Cambridgeshire on the East [a]. It is a very good Corn Country, and for feeding ground the fenny part of the East is fatter than ordinary: the rest mighty pleasant, by reason of its swelling hills, and shady groves; in ancient times woody all over, according to the report of the Inhabitants. That it was a Forest till the beginning of Henry 2. is evident by an old Survey, All, except Waybridge, Sapple, and Herthei, which were Woods of the Lords demain, is still Forest [b].
The river Ouse, I have so often mention'd, washes the South-part, and decks it with flowers. Besides inferiour places, there stand three towns of note upon this river, after it has left Bedfordshire and enters this County. The first isa St. Neots, commonly call'd St. Needs, St. Needs taking its name from one Neotus, a learned and pious person, who spent all his studies in propagating the Gospel; his body was remov'd from Neotstock in Cornwall to this place, in honour of whom Alfrick converted Earl Elfrid's Palace into a Monastery, which Roisia, Richard Lord of Clare's wife, soon after the coming in of the Normans, endow'd with many a fair estate. Before that, this place was call'd Ainulphsbury, Ainsb [...]y. from one Ainulph another pious person, which name it still retains in part. At Hailweston a small village a little lower, are two Springs,Me [...]l Sp [...]ngs. one fresh and the other a little brackish; one good for Scabs and Leprosies, as the inhabitants say, and the other for dimness of eyes. A little way further, the Ouse runs by Bugden, B [...]gden. a handsome Palace of the Bishops of Lincoln; so by Hinchingbroke, formerly a Nunnery, remov'd by William the Conquerour from Eltesley in Cambridgeshire to this place, andb now the seat of the Cromwells, Knights; and from thence to Huntingdon, Huntingdon. by the Saxons huntandun, according to Marianus in the publick Seal Hunters-dune, that is, Hunters-Down according to Henry Arch-Deacon of this place, who [Page]
[Page] [Page 421-422] flourish'd 400 years ago; from whence it bears a Hunter in its Coat of Arms, and our Country-man Leland has upon this account coin'd that new Latin word Venantodunum. This is the chief town of the whole County, giving its name to it; It excels the towns about it (says the same Arch-Deacon) for its pleasant situation, its handsomness and beauty, the conveniency of the fens just by, and for the great advantage of hunting and fishing. In the reign of Edward the Confessor, as it is in Domesday-book, This Burrough was divided into four Ferlings, two of them had 116 Burgesses that paid custom and gelt, and under them 100 Bordarii: the other two had 111 Burgers for all the King's customs and gelt. It stands on the North-side of the Ouse, on a little rising; reaching lengthways to the North, adorn'd with four Churches, and once with a small Abby, founded by the Empress Maud and Eustace Lovetoft, the ruins whereof I saw out of the town Eastward. By this river side, nigh the fair Free-stone bridge, there is a mount and ground-plot of a castle, built up anew byc Edward the elder in the year 917; enlarg'd with several new works by David the Scotch King, to whom King Stephen had given the Burrough of Huntingdon for an augmentation of his estate, as an ancient Historian has it; and lastly demolish'd by Henry 2. because 'twas a refuge for seditious persons, and to prevent the frequent quarrels between the Scots and the St. Lizes about it, which made him swear in a great passion, that he would take away all cause of contention from both parties [c]. From this castle-hill there's a large prospect, where one may see a meadow encompass'd with the Ouse, call'd Portsholme, extream large, and the Sun never saw a more glorious one; to which in Spring-time this Verse may well be apply'd:
This pleasant Scene charms a man's eyes. On the other side the river over against Huntingdon, (as it were the Mother that brought it forth,) stands Gormonchester, now call'd Goodmanchester. A large Country-town eminent for tillage, openly situated on a light ground, declining to the Sun. Nor is there a town in the kingdom that has a greater number of lusty stout workmen, or keeps more plows a going; and they brag that they have formerly entertain'd the King's of England in their progress with a rustick shew of ninescore Plows at once. Certainly there are none in the Nation that more advance Husbandry, (which Columella calls Wisdom's Cousin) either in respect of their skill, their purse, or their inclination. Henry of Huntingdon calls it in his time a village not unpleasant, but formerly, he truly writes, it had been a noble city. For omitting the Roman coins so frequently plow'd up, and the distance in the Itinerary, the very name implies it to be the same city that the Emperour Antonine calls Duroliponte, [...]ro [...]ipon [...] instead of Durosiponte; for Durosi-ponte (pardon one letter altering) in British signify'd a Bridge over Ouse. For all own that this river went indifferently by the names of Use, Ise, Ose, and Ouse. But in the Saxons time, when it lost this name, it took that of Gormoncester from Gormon the Dane (who by Articles had these parts granted him by our King Alfred) as this Verse can witness:
It is the same place that J. Picus an ancient writer speaks of, when he says, That King Alfred gain'd such advantages over the Danes, that they gave what security he demanded, either to leave the Land, or turn Christians. Which was put in execution; for Guthrum the King, (whom they call Gormond) thirty of his Nobility, and almost all his people were baptiz'd, and himself adopted Alfred's God-son, and call'd by the name of Athel [...]an. Upon this he settl'd here, and had the Provinces of the East-Angles and Northumbers bestow'd on him, now to protect them as their lawful Soveraign, which before he had wasted as a Robber. Nor must it be pass'd over, that some of these old writers have call'd this city Gumicester, and Gumicastrum, positively affirming that Machute had his Episcopal See at this place [d]1.
Ouse hastning its course fr [...]m hence, nigh Cambridgeshire glides through pleasant meadows, where is a pretty neat town, formerly by the Saxons call'd Slepe, now St. Ives, St. Ives. from Ivo a Persian Bishop, who, they write, about the year 600, travell'd over England with a great reputation of sanctity, all the way carefully preaching the Gospel, and left his name to this place, where he left his body too. Soon after, the Religious remov'd that from hence to Ramsey-Abby [e].
Turning almost three miles on one side, I saw Somersham, Somersham a large Palace of late belonging to the Bishop of Ely, given to the Church of Ely by Earl Brithnot in the year 991, and enlarg'd with new buildings by that every-way-prodigal Bishop, James Stanley d. A little higher stood the famous rich Abby ofe Ramsey, among the fenns, where the rivers stagnate in a soft kind of grounds. For a description of this place, you may have it in short out of the private History of the Abby. Ramsey, Ramsey. that is, the Rams Isle, on the West-side (for on all others there are nothing but impassible fens for a great way together) it is separated from firm ground almost two Bow shots by rough Quagmires. Which place formerly, up a shallow river, us'd to receive Vessels into the midst of it by gentle gales of wind; but now with great pains and cost, these clay Quagmires are stopped with large quantities of wood, gravel, and stone, and footmen may pass upon a firm Causey almost two miles long, but less in breadth, surrounded with Alders, which with fresh green Reeds, intermix'd with Bulrushes, make a beautiful shew; long before it was inhabited, it was all cover'd over with several sorts of trees, but with wild Ashes in abundance. But now of late, since these woods are partly cut down, the land is found to be arable and of a fat mould, plentiful in fruit, delightful in corn, planted with gardens, rich in pastures; in spring the pleasant meads smile on the spectators, and the whole Isle is embroider'd as it were with variety of flowers. Besides all this, here are Meres full of Eels, and Pools full of all sorts of fish and water fowl, of which Ramsey-Mere Ramsey-Mere. is one, call'd from the name of the Isle, far excelling all the neighbouring waters both in fairness and plenty; and where the Isle is wider, and wood thicker, it prettily washes the sandy banks, and is mighty pleasant to behold; in its deep holes, they draw out Pikes of wonderful bigness, which they call Hakeds, Hakeds. either with several sorts of Nets, baited Hooks, or other fishing Instruments; and tho' this place is perpetually haunted by fowlers, and always abundance taken, yet there's still abundance left behind. Then he proceeds to shew how one Ailwin, of the royal family, for his great authority and favour with the King, sirnam'd Healf-Koning, that is, Half-King, built this Abby upon the account of a fisher's dream; how Bishop Oswald enlarg'd it; how the Kings and others encreas'd its endowments, so that it usually lay'd out 7000 pound of our money a year, to maintain 60 Monks. But since 'tis now ruin'd, perhaps some will think I've said too much of it already; yet however I'll venture to add, out of the same Author, the Epitaph of Ailwin's Tomb, because it bears such an uncommon title of honour.
HIC REQVIESCIT AILWINVS INCLITI REGIS EADGARI COGNATVS, TOTIVS ANGLIAE ALDERMANNVS, ET HVIVS SACRI COENOBII MIRACVLOSVS FVNDATOR.
That is, Here rests Ailwin, kinsman to the famous King Eadgar, Alderman of all England, and the miraculous founder of this Monastery.
From hence to Peterborough, about 10 miles, did K. Canute raise a pav'd causey with great labour and charge, by our Historians call'd Kings delf, Kingsdelf. nigh the great Lake Wittlesmere; because that way was render'd troublesome by brooks and sloughs [f]. As this Abbey was an ornament to the eastern parts of the County, so was Saltry [Sawtry] to the middle, a Monastery founded by the second Simon of St. Lizes E. of Huntingdon. A little way off lies Cunnington, Cunnington. held (as the Lawyers word it) of the Honour of Huntingdon, where, within a four-square ditch, are the plain Reliques of an ancient Castle, which with Saltry Saltry. was given by Canute to Turkill the Dane, [...]urkill the Dane. who liv'd among the East-Angles, and call'd in Sueno King of Denmark to plunder the Nation. After Turkill's departure, it was possess'd by Waldeof Earl of Huntingdon, son to Siward Earl of Northumberland, who marry'd Judith, William the Conquerour's Niece by his half sister on the mothers side; by whose eldest daughter it descended to the Royal Family of Scotland: for she, after her first husband's decease, marry'd David Earl of Huntingdon, (afterwards King of Scotland) the younger son of Malcolm Can-mor King of Scotland and Margaret his Wife, of the Royal Family of the English-Saxons; for she was King Edmund Ironside's grandchild by his son Edgar, sirnam'd the Banish'd. David had a son call'd Henry, and he another call'd David, who was Earl of Huntingdon; by Isabel, one of his daughters, Cunnington and other large possessions, by marriage fell to Robert Brus, from whose eldest son Robert, sirnam'd the Noble, it is, that James King of Great Britain lineally derives his Descent; and from his younger son Bernard, who inherited Cunnington and Exton, Sir Robert Cotton Knight derives his; a person who, besides other excellencies, is a great admi [...]er and Master of Learning, and has here a Collection of venerable Antiquities from all parts; from whose peculiar courtesie I have often receiv'd great light into these obscure matters.
By reason these parts lye so low, are under water for some months,Mosses. and some so hollow that they seem to float; they are much troubled with the noisome smells of Lakes, and a thick foggy air. Here lyes that clear Lake so full of fish, call'd Witlesmere, Witlesmere Lake. six miles long and three broad2, in a moorish Country; but the great profit of fishing, the plenty of Pastures, and the abundance of Turfs for firing (as the neighbours say) do sufficiently make amends for the unhealthfulness of the place3. For King Canute order'd Turkill the Dane, a person before mention'd, that every village about the Fens shou'd have it's proper Marsh; who so divided the ground, that the inhabitants of each village shou'd have just so much of the main Marsh for their own use as lay right against the farm-ground of the said village. He also made an order, that no village might dig or mow in another's Marsh without leave; but however, the feeding shou'd be common to all, that is Horn under H [...]rn, for the preservation of peace and quiet among 'em. But enough of this.
The little History of Ely.When Canute's children and servants were sent for from Peterborough to Ramsey, passing this Lake, in the midst of their pleasant voyage, and their singing and jollity, the turbulent winds and tempestuous storms arose on all sides and surrounded them, so that they were utterly in despair either of life, security, or succour; but so great was God's mercy, that they did not all become a prey to that devouring Element: The foundation-Charter of Saltry. for some out of his compassion and providence he sav'd from the raging waves, but others by his secret judgment he suffer'd to perish in the deep. When this sad news was brought to the King, it put him into a dreadful fright; but after a little recovery, by the counsel of his Nobility and Friends, to prevent all future mischances from this merciless monster, he order'd his soldiers and servants to mark out a Ditch in the Marshes between Ramsey and Witlesy, with their Swords and Skeins, and Day-labourers to scour and cleanse it; from whence, as we have it from our Predecessors of good credit, this ditch by some of the neighbours was call'd Swerdes-delf, Swe [...]des-de [...] d ff [...] e [...]t f [...]m King [...]delf. because 'twas mark'd out by swords; but some would have it call'd Cnouts-delf from that King's name. But now they commonly call it Steeds-dike; and it is the bound between this County and Cambridgeshire.
Kinnibantum-Castle, now Kimbolton, Kimbolt [...]n. formerly the seat of the Mandevils, since of the Bohuns and Staffords, and now of the Wingfields, is at present an ornament to the Eastern parts of the County [g]; below which was Stonely, a petty Convent founded by the Bigrames. A little way hence stands Awkenbury, given by King John to David Earl of Huntingdon, and by John Scot his son to Stephen Segrave, Stephen Segr [...]e. a person I'm the more willing to mention, because he was one of the Courtiers who have taught us,N [...]am poten [...]am ess [...] [...]nt [...]m. That no power is powerful. With a great deal of pains he rais'd himself to a high post, with as much trouble kept it, and as suddenly lost it. In his young days from a Clerk he was made Knight; Matth. P [...] and tho' he was but of a mean family, yet in his latter days, by his bold industry, he so enrich'd and advanc'd himself, that he was rank'd among the highest of the Nobility, made Lord Chief Justice, and manag'd almost all the Affairs of the Nation as he pleas'd. At length he wholly lost all the King's favour, and ended his days in a cloyster; and he who out of pride must needs remove from ecclesiastical to secular Affairs, was forc'd to reassume his ecclesiastical Office and shaven crown (without so much as consulting his Bishop,) which he had formerly laid aside. Not far off stands Leighton, Leight [...]n. where Sir Gervase Clifton Knight began a noble building [h]; and just by lyes Spaldwick, given to the Church of Lincoln by Henry 1. to make some amends for erecting Ely-Bishoprick out of Lincoln-Diocese.
The river Nen enters this Shire by Elton, Elton. f the seat of the famous ancient family of the Sapcots, where is a private Chapel of singular beauty, with curious painted windows, built by the Lady Elizabeth Dinham, Baron Fitz-Warren's widow, who marry'd into this family. Higher upon the Nen, nigh Walmsford, Walmsford stood a little city, of greater antiquity than all these, call'd Caer Dorm and Dormeceaster by Henry of Huntingdon, who says it was utterly ruin'd before his time. Undoubtedly this is the Durobrivae D [...]bri [...]ae. of Antonine, that is, the River-passage, and now for the same reason call'd Dornford nigh Chesterton, which, besides the finding of old Coins, has the apparent marks of a ruinous City. For a Roman Port-way led directly from hence to Huntingdon; and a little above Stilton, Sti [...]ton. formerly Stichilton, it appears with a high bank, and in an old Saxon Charter is call'd Erminstreat. Ermi [...]gstreat. Here it runs through the middle of a square fort, defended on the north-side with walls, on the rest with ramparts of Earth; nigh which, they've lately digg'd up several stone Coffins or Sepulchres ing the ground of R. Bevill, of an ancient family in this County. Some think this city stood upon both banks of the river, and others are of opinion,Caster [...] N [...]r [...]pto [...]sh [...] e that the little village Caster on the other side was part of it; and truly this opinion is well back'd by an ancient history, that says there was a place call'd Durmundcaster by Nene, where Kinneburga founded a little Nunnery, first call'd Kinneburge-caster, and afterwards for shortness Caster. This Kinneburga, the most Christian daughter of the Pagan King Penda and Alfred King of the Northumber's wife, chang'd her Soveraign Authority for Christ's service (to use the words of an old writer) and govern'd her own Nunnery as a mother to those sacred Virgins. Which place about 1010, was level'd to the ground by the fury of the Danes. A little before this river leaves the County, it runs by an ancient House call'd Bottle bridge B [...]-bridge. (for shortness instead of Botolph-bridge,) which the Draitons and Lovets brought from R. Gimels to the family of the Shirlies by hereditary succession. Adjoyning to this, lies Overton, corruptly called Orton, forfeited by Felony, and redeem'd of K. John [Page 425-426] by Neale Lovetoft, whose sister and coheir was married to Hubert, or Robert de Brounford, and their children took upon 'em the name of Lovetoft.
Earls of H [...]ntingdon.This County, at the declining of the English-Saxons, had Siward an Earl by office; for then there were no hereditary Earls in England, but the Governours of Provinces, according to the custom of that age, were call'd Earls, with addition of the title of this or that Province they govern'd: as this Siward, the time he govern'd here, was call'd Earl of Huntingdon; but soon after when he govern'd Northumberland, he was call'd Earl of Northumberland.See [...]he E [...]ls [...]f No [...]thamptonshire. He had a son call'd Waldeof, who, under the title of Earl, had the government of this County, by the favour of William the Conquerour, whose niece Judith by his sister on the mother's side, he had married. This Waldeof's eldest daughter (says William Gemeticensis) was married to Simon [...]vane [...]er [...]. [...] u [...]t. c [...]p [...]6. de Senlys or St. Liz: she brought him the Earldom of Huntingdon, and had a son by him call'd Simon. After her husband's decease, she was married to David, St. Maud the Queen of England's Brother, (who was afterwards King of Scotland) by whom she had a son nam'd Henry. Afterwards, as Fortune and Princes Favours alter'd, this Dignity was enjoy'd sometimes by the Scots, and other times by the St. Lizes; first, Henry the son of David, J [...]n [...]rd [...] in Scot [...]n. co l. 3. [...]. 3. 6. [...] 3 [...]. then Simon St. Lizes, Simon the first's son; after him, Malcolm King of Scotland, Earl Henry's brother; after his decease, Simon St. Liz the third, who dying without heirs, was succeeded by William King of Scotland, and Malcolm's Brother. Thus says Ralph de Diceto in the year 1185. when he flourish'd; When Simon Earl Simon's son dy'd without children, the King restor'd to William K. of Scotland the County of Huntingdon with all its appurtenances. Then his brother David had it,Matth. Par. and his son John Scot Earl of Chester, who dy'd without heirs; and when Alexander the second, who marry'd King Henry the third's daughter, had held this title a little while, and the Wars broke in, 1243 the Scots lost this honour, besides a fair inheritance in England. A good while after, Edward the third created William Clinton Earl of Huntingdon; Richard the second put Guiscard de Angolesme in his place; and after his death, John Holland. He was succeeded by John 4 and Henry his sons; who were each of them also Dukes of Exeter.See Dukes of Exeter, pag. 32. Cap. 50. The same Henry Duke of Exeter, that Philip Comines (as he affirms) saw begging bare-foot in the Low Countries, whilst he kept firm to the House of Lancaster, though he had married Edward the fourth's own sister. Next to him, Thomas Grey, afterwards Marquess of Dorset, held this honour a little while. It is evident from the Records, that William Herbert Earl of Pembroke, again brought in the Charter of Creation, whereby his father was made Earl of Pembroke, into the Chancery to be cancelled, and that Edward the fourth created him Earl of Huntingdon in the seventeenth year of his reign. But in the memory of our fathers, Henry the eighth settled this honour upon George Lord Hastings. But Francis Lord Hastings, his son, dying in his life-time, this honour descended to Henry his son, a truly honourable person, both for Nobility and Piety: he dying without heirs, his brother George succeeded him, whose grandchild by a son Henry, enjoys the honour at this day.
This little Shire contains 78 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to HƲNTINGDONSHIRE.
[a] HUntingdonshire, call'd inAnnal. p. [...]1. l. 1. & p. 147. l 36. Saxon huntandunescyre, and by later Writers Huntedunescire, and Huntyngdonschyre, is of very small extent, scarce stretching out it self 20 miles, tho' measur'd to the best advantage. [...]ee [...] f [...]m [...]ir R b. Cott [...]n. It has been an observation upon this County, that the families of it have been so worn out, that tho' it has been very rich in Gentry, yet but few Sirnames of any note are remaining, which can be drawn down beyond the reign of the last Henry. The cause of such decay in places nearer London, is plain enough; viz. the many temptations to luxury and high living, and the great wealth of Merchants always ready to supply their extravagance with money, till the whole be run out. But this cannot hold here; so that we must see whether a reason brought by a later Author will not solve it, viz. That most of the County being Abby-land, upon the Dissolution many new Purchasers planted themselves herein; and perhaps their new possessions might have the same fate that Church-revenues have had in other places, where they fell into Lay-hands.
[b] Our Author observes that it was all Forest till the time of Henry the second. But, if we may believe Sir Robert Cotton (who sent the account to Speed, and had himself design'd a History of the County) this was never fully effected till the time of Edward 1. For Henry 2. did pretend to enfranchise his subjects of this Shire from servitude of his beasts, except Wabridge, Saple, and Herthy, his own Demains. But such were the encroachments of the succeeding Reigns, that the poor inhabitants were forc'd to petition for redress; which was granted them by the great Charter of Henry 3. Only, his son resum'd the fruits of his father's kindness, till in the 29th year of his reign, he confirm'd the former Charter, and left no more of this shire Forest, than what was his own ground.
The government of the County is very peculiar, Cambridgeshire in the Civil administration being joyn'd to it: so that there is but one High-sheriff for both Shires. He is one year chosen out of Cambridgeshire, out of the Isle of Ely a second, and a third out of this Shire. In the Isle of Ely he is one time chosen out of the north part, and out of the south, another.
[c] It's chief town is Huntingdon, Huntingdon. in Saxon huntandune, huntendune, huntenduneport; which appears formerly to have been a flourishing town, reckoning no less than 15 Churches; tho' in our Author's time they were reduc'd to four; and of these the zeal of the late times only left two. The cause of this decay seems to have been theCotton in Speed. alteration made in the river by Grey (a Minion of the time, as my Author calls him) who procur'd the passage of it to be stop'd, whereas before to the great advantage of the Inhabitants, it was navigable as far as this town. King John granted it by Charter, a peculiar Coroner, profit by Toll and Custom, a Recorder, Town-Clerk, and two Bailiffs; but at present it is incorporated by the name of a Mayor, twelve Aldermen and Burgesses.
[d] Its neighbour Goodmanchester, Goodmanchester, probably by the methods our Author mentions, grew so wealthy and considerable, that in the reign of King James 1. it was incorporated by the name of two Bailiffs, twelve Assistants, and commonalty of the Burrough of Goodmanchester.
[e] Lower down upon the river is St. Ives, St. Ives. which a late Writer calls a fair, large, and ancient town, with a fine Stone-bridge over the Ouse. But within these three or four years, it was a great part of it burnt down, and whether it have so far recover'd it self, as to merit that character at present, I know not.
[f] Between Ramsey and Peterborrow, our Author observes that King Canutus made a large Cawsey, call'd by our Historians Kingsdelfe. Kingsdelf. But whatever [Page 427-428] way our Authors mark out by that name, 'tis certain they cannot mean Canutus's road; for the name Kingsdelf or Cingesdaelf in those parts appears upon Record before Canutus's time; I mean in the reign of King Edgar, who in his Charter to the Church of Peterburrow,Chron. Sax. p. 119. lin. 18. makes this Cingesdaelf one of the bounds of his Donation. Besides, the daelf will not answer a via constrata lapidibus, or pav'd way, but seems rather to mark out to us some ditch drawn at first for the draining those fenny grounds, and reducing the waters into one chanel.
[g] On the west side of this County, is Kimbolton, Kimbolton. which our Author says, in his time, was the seat of the Wingfields. It has since pass'd from them by sale to the Mountagues, and Henry Earl of Manchester of that name very much improv'd the Castle, sparing no cost that might add to its beauty.Lel. Itin. MS. vol. 1. It was Sir Richard Wingfield who built new Lodgings and Galleries upon the old foundations of this Castle, which was double ditch'd, and the building of it very strong. Here is at present a pretty fair town seated in a bottom, which gives the title of Baron to the Right Honourable the Earl of Manchester.
[h] Leighton, Leighton. mention'd by our Author to be the seat of the Cliftons, is now the Lady Butler's, daughter and heir to the late Richard Earl of Arran, who had it in marriage with the sole daughter of James Duke of Richmond, as this Duke had by the Lord Clifton's.
Continuation of the EARLS.
Henry, the last Earl mention'd by our Author, had by Elizabeth (daughter and coheir to Ferdinando Earl of Derby) Ferdinando Earl of Huntingdon, father to Theophilus the seventh Earl of that name, who was Captain of the Band of Gentlemen Pensioners, Privy-Councellor to King Charles 2. and King James, by whom he was made chief Justice in Eyre of all the Forests south of Trent; as also Lieutenant of the Counties of Leicester and Derby. His son and heir apparent is George Lord Hastings.
I have not as yet observed any Plants peculiar to this County; the more rare being common to it with Cambridgeshire.
CORITANI.
WE are now to visit the Coritani, a People living inward from the Iceni, and taking up a very large Tract of Ground in the Mediterranean parts of this Isle, as far as the German Ocean, viz. the Counties now commonly call'd Northamptonshire, Leicestershire, Rutlandshire, Lincolnshire, Nottinghamshire, and Derbyshire. I shall forbear medling with the Etymology of their name, for fear I should pretend to know what's a downright mystery. For notwithstanding they are a People scattered far and wide, which the Britains express by Gur-tani, yet should I assert that these Coritani took their name from thence, would you not think this mere trifling? Let those who are better skill'd in that sort of Learning, more safely give their conjectures; whilst I, according to my design, survey each of the Counties I now mentioned, in their respective order.
NORTHAMPTONSHIRE.
THE County of Northampton, in Saxon Norþ-afendon-scyre, anda Northantonshire, commonly Northamptonshire, is situate in the very middle and heart, as it were, of England; and from the South-west-side, where it is broadest, contracting it self by degrees, runs out in length to the North-east. On the East lye the Counties of Bedford and Huntingdon, on the South those of Buckingham and Oxford, Westward Warwick, and Northward those of Leicester, Rutland, and Lincoln, separated by the rivers Avon the less, and the Welland. Watling-street, one of the Roman high-ways, runs along the East-side from the Ouse to Dowbridge: the Nen, call'd also by Historians Aufona, gently cuts through the middle and east parts. It is a Champain Country, very populous, and every where adorn'd with Noblemen and Gentlemen's houses, very full of Towns and Churches, insomuch that in some places there are 20, in others 30 Spires or Steeples, more or less, in view at a time. Its soil both for tillage and pasturage, exceeding fertile; but not well stock'd with wood, unless at the hither and further end. But every where, as in other Provinces of England, full, and as it were, over-run with sheep,Sh [...]ep. which (as that Hythodaeus said) us'd to be so gentle, [...]i [...] T [...]. M. [...]s U [...]. and fed with so little; but now, as 'tis reported, begin to be so ravenous and wild, that they devour men, waste and depopulate fields, houses, and towns [a].
On the South border, where the river Ouse so often mention'd, has its spring, on a gently rising ground, full of bubbling fountains, stands Brackley, [...]kl [...]y. that is, a place full of brake or fern; anciently a famous staple for Wooll, but which now only boasts how great and wealthy it once was, by its ruins, and by a Mayor it retains for its chief Magistrate. The Zouches, Lords of the place, founded a College there; from them it came successively by right of marriage to the Hollands and the Lovels. But upon the attainder of Lovel in King Henry the seventh's time, the Stanleys, by the King's grant, became Lords of it. But the College, ruinous now, belongs to Magdalen College in Oxford, who keep it for a retiring place Nor was this town a little famous in former ages for the memory of Rumbald a young infant, who (as we read in his life) was a King's son; and as soon as he was born, after he had spoken I know not what holy words, had profess'd himself a Christian, and had been immediately baptiz'd, expir'd1.
From hence northward, after I had gone six miles through woods and groves, first I saw Astwell, where T. Billing (formerly Lord Chief Justice of the King's Bench) dwelt in great repute: from whom it descended hereditarily to the ancient family of the Lovels. Then Wedon and Wapiham, which the family of the Pinkneys held by Barony; The Barony [...] [...]he Pink [...]ys. till such time as H. de Pinkney made King Edward the first his heir. Who being an excellent Prince, many ill men made him their heirs; whereas, according to Tacitus, a good father makes no Prince, but a bad one, his heir. From hence I presently came to Tripontium, Tripontium which Antonine takes notice of, but not in its right place. For I am of opinion, this was that very place we now call Torcester; nor are there good Arguments wanting to prove this. If Trimontium in Thrace had that name of three Hills, Triturrita in Tuscany of three Towers, and Tripolis of three Cities; there is no room to doubt, but that this Tripontium of ours, was so nam'd of three Bridges. And here at this Torcester, the Roman Praetorian or Military-way, which very plainly appears in several places between this and Stony-Stratford, is cut in two by three principal chanels that the little river divides it self into; which as well anciently (as now) must have had of necessity three several Bridges over them. Now if you ask a Britain how he calls Three Bridges in British, he will presently answer you, Tair ponte; and certain persons of good credit, from whom I receiv'd some Roman coins here, positively affirm that Torcester is its true name,Some will have the River's name, Toue, that runs by it. and think it was so call'd of Towers. Nevertheless, Marianus calls it Touecester (if the Book be not faulty,) in whom we read, that this town was so fortified in the year of our Lord 917. that the Danes were by no means able to take it; and that King Edward the Elder afterwards encompass'd it with a Stone-wall; yet with all my search I could find no signs of any such Wall. Only there is a Mount still remaining, cast up in ancient times; they call it Berihill, now taken up in private Gardens, and planted on every side with Cherry Trees. And time it self has so ruin'd the town, that it is beholden to the situation, the name, and the ancient Coins ever now and then found here, for its reputation of antiquity. For it has nothing worth taking notice of, but one only Church, large and fair, in which D. Sponte, formerly Rector thereof, by report a good Benefactor both to Church and Town, lies enterr'd in a Tomb of excellent workmanship. But at Elton hard by, you have a prospect of a fine house belonging to the family of the Farmers Knights.
The river that waters Torcester, in its course from hence towards the Ouse, runs by Grafton, Grafton. now an Honour of the King's, but formerly a seat of the family of Widdevil, Widdevil or Wod [...]il. out of which came Richard, a person much renowned for his virtue and valour, who was fined 1000 l. of our money by King Henry the sixth, for marrying Jaquet (Dowager of John Duke of Bedford, and daughter of Peter of Luxenburgh Earl of St. Paul) without leave of the King. Yet afterwards he advanced the same person to the Honour of Baron Widdevil of Rivers. Parl. 27 H. 6. With Elizabeth (this Lord's daughter) King Edward the fourth privately contracted marriage, being the first of our Kings since the Conquest that married his Subject. But thereby he drew upon himself and her relations a world of troubles, as may be seen in our Histories. [Page 431-432] The said Richard Widdevil, Lord of Rivers, Grafton, and De la Mote, was by Edward the fourth, now his Son in law, avanc'd (these are the very words of the Charter of Creation) to be Earl of Rivers, Earls Rivers. by the cincture of a Sword, to have to him and his heirs males, with the fee of 20 l. by the hands of the Sheriff of Northampton. And soon after he was with great state and solemnity constituted Constable of England7 Edw. 1. C [...]nstable [...]gland. (I speak out of the original Patent) To occupy, manage, and execute the said Office by himself or his sufficient Deputies for term of life, receiving yearly 200 pound out of the Exchequer, with full power and authority to take cognizance, and proceed in causes of and concerning the crime of High Treason, or the occasion thereof: also to hear, examine, and in due time determine the causes and business aforesaid, with all and singular matters thence arising, thereunto incident, or therewith conjoyned, summarily and from the Bench, without noise, or formal judgment, having only regard to the truth of the fact, and with the King's hand or power, if it shall be thought convenient in our behalf, without all appeal Moreover about that time he was made Lord Treasurer of England.. But after his having enjoy'd these honours for a good while, he was beat in the battel of Edgcote, fighting for his Son-in-law; and soon after intercepted, and beheaded.
And altho' this family died as it were, and ended in his sons; Anthony Earl Rivers being beheaded by Richard the third, and Richard and his Brothers dying issueless; yet from the daughters sprang very fair and noble branches. For from them issued the Royal Line of England, the Marquisses of Dorset, Earls of Essex, Earls of Arundel, Earls of Worcester, Earls of Derby, and Barons Stafford [b].
Behind Grafton is Sacy Forest, Sacy Forest. a place set apart for game. More Eastward the villages lye scatter'd thick every where, amongst which these are of greatest note. Blisworth the seat of the Wakes, descended from the famous family of the Barons of Wake and Estoteville; Pateshull which gave name formerly to a noted family; Greenes-Norton, (so nam'd of the Greenes, persons fam'd in the last age for their wealth) call'd before,Inq. 44. Edw. 3. if I mistake not,A Manuscript Collection of Tenures by Serjeanty in the hands of Henry Worsley of Lincolns-Inn Esquire, puts this service under Ashby in this County. Norton Dany, and held in Capite of the King, by the Service of lifting up the right hand towards the King, yearly on Christmas-day, in what place soever he then was in England. Wardon, Wardon. a Hundred, which had its Lords descended from Guy de Reinbudcourt a Norman, whose estate came by the Foliots to Guiscard Leddet, whose daughter Christian bare unto her husband, Henry de Braibrook, a numerous issue. But Guiscard the eldest assum'd his mothers sirname, Leddet. Shortly after, this great estate was divided by females between William and John Latimers of Corby, brothers. From the last the Griffins in this County had their original; as from the first, the Latimers BaronsBarons Latimer. of good antiquity in Yorkshire.
Higher in the Country, northward, arises the river Aufona or Avon (for Avon in the British tongue is a general name of all rivers) call'd Nen The river Nen. by the inhabitants, and passes from the west-side of this County (making many reaches by the winding of its banks) in a manner through the midst of this Province, to which it is a continual blessing. A very noble river it is; and, if my judgment be worth any thing, garison'd in old time by the Romans. For when that part of Britain on this side the river was in the Emperour Claudius's time brought under the Roman Government, so that the inhabitants thereof were termed Allies to the Romans; when the Britains also beyond the river made frequent incursions into this their Country, and carried all before them; and these Allies themselves, more easily bearing the Commands than Vices of the Romans, on every turn conspir'd with those beyond the river: then P. Ostorius (says Tacitus) cinctos castris Antonam (Aufonas I would read it, if I might be so bold) & Sabrinam cohibere parat. That is, if I misunderstand not the place, he by placing Forts up and down upon these rivers, undertakes to restrain the Britains beyond the river, and those of this Province, from assisting one another against the Romans. What river this shou'd be, none can tell. Lipsius, the Apollo of our age, hath either dispell'd this mist, or I my self am in a cloud. He points out Northampton, and I am of opinion that Antona has been foisted into Tacitus instead of Aufona, upon which Northampton is seated. For the very heart or middle of England is counted to be near it; where, out of one hill spring three rivers running different ways; Cherwell to the south, Leame to the west (which, as it hastens to the Severn, is receiv'd by another [...] Avon,) and this Avon or Nen] to the east. Of which, theseAnt [...]a. two Avons so cross England overthwart, that whoever comes out of the northern parts of this Island, must of necessity pass over one of the two. When therefore Ostorius had fortified the Severn and these two Avons, he had no cause to fear any danger out of Wales or the north parts of Britain, either to his Romans or Allies; who at that time had reduced only the nearest parts of this Isle into the form of a Province, as Tacitus himself witnesses in another place [c].
Those great fortifications and military fences to be seen at Gildsborough and Dantrey G [...]ds [...] ro [...]gh Dan [...]y. (between the springs of the two Avons, which run different ways, and where only there is passage into the hither part of Britain, without any rivers to hinder it) may seem to be some of the sorts which Ostorius erected. That at Gildsborough is great and large, but this other at Dantrey is greater and larger; for being four-square, upon an high hill, from whence all the Country beneath may be seen far and near, and having on the east-side a Mount (they call it Spelwell,) it encloses within a cast-up bank two hundred acres or thereabouts. Within which the Country people find now and then Coins of the Roman Emperours, certain proofs of it's antiquity. They are much mistaken therefore, who will have it to be a work of the Danes, and that the town under it was thence nam'd Dantrey; now well known for it's Inns, and had formerly a Religious-house of Augustin Fryers, which (as 'tis reported) H. de Fawesly sounded.
At the head of the Avon or Nen (to make a step backwards) stands Catesby, Catesby. that gave name to an ancient family, but now of execrable memory for a most cruel and horrible plot, never parallel'd in any age, which Robert Catesby of Ashby St. Leger, the dishonour of his family, (running headlong upon villanies, gaping after the most detestable cruelties, and impiously conspiring the destruction of his Prince and Country) lately contriv'd under a specious pretext of Religion. Of this let all ages be silent, and let not the mention of it convey this scandal to posterity, which we our selves cannot reflect on without horrour; nay, the dumb and inanimate Beings seem to be moved at the hainousness of such a villanous conspiracy. Hard by is Fawesley, Fawe [...]. where the Knightleys have long dwelt, adorn'd with the honour of Knighthood, descended from the more ancient family of Knightley of Gnowshall in Staffordshire. And more eastward upon the Nen (whose chanel as yet is but small) stands Wedon on the street, Wed [...] [...] the Street once the royal seat of Wolpher K. of the Mercians; and converted into a Monastery by his daughter Werburg a most holy Virgin, whose miracles in driving away Geese from hence, some credulous writers have very much magnified. I shou'd certainly wrong truth, shou'd I not think (tho' I have been of a contrary opinion) that it is this Wedon which Antonine in his Itinerary calls Bannavenna, Bennavenna, Bennaventa, Bann [...] na [...] Isa [...] na, [...] na [...]. and once corruptly Isannaventa, notwithstanding there remain not now any express footsteps of that name; so much does length of time darken and change every thing. For the distance from the ancient Stations and Quarters on both sides exactly agrees; and in the very name of Bannavenna, the name of the river Aufona [Avenna, now Nen] the head whereof is near it, in some measure discovers it self. Likewise a Military-way goes directly from hence northward, with a Causey oft broken and worn away; but most of all over-against Creke a village, where of necessity it was joyn'd with bridges, but elsewhere it appears with a high ridge as far as Dowbridge near Lilborne.
A little more northward I saw Althorp, [...]p. the seat of the noted family of the Spencers Knights, allied to very many Houses of great worth and honour; out of which Sir Robert Spencer, the fifth Knight in a continued succession, a worthy encourager of virtue and learning, was by his most serene Majesty K. James lately advanced to the honour of Baron Spencer of Wormleighton. Hard by Althorp, Holdenby-house [...]. [...]denby. makes a noble appearance, a stately and truly magnificent piece of building, erected by Sir Christopher Hatton [...] Christo [...]er Hat [...] [...] died [...] 1591. (Privy Counsellour to Qu. Elizabeth, Lord Chancellour of England, and Knight of the Garter) upon the lands and inheritance of his great grandmother, heir of the ancient family of the Holdenbys for the greatest and last monument, as himself afterwards was wont to say, of his youth. A person, to say nothing of him but what is his due, eminent for his piety towards God, his love for his Country, his untainted integrity and unparallel'd charity. One also (which is not the least part of his character) that was always ready to encourage Learning. Thus as he liv'd piously, so he fell asleep piously in Christ. Yet the monument the learned in their writings have rais'd to him, shall render him more illustrious than that most noble and splendid tomb in St. Paul's Church, London, deservedly and at great charges erected to the memory of so great a person, by Sir William Hatton Kt. his adopted son.
Beneath these places, the Nen glides forward with a gentle small stream, and is soon after encreas'd by the influx of a little river; where, at the very meeting of them, the City, called after the river, Northafandon, and in short Northampton, [...]orthamp [...]n. is so seated, that on the west-side it is water'd with this river, and on the south with the other. Which I was of late easily induced to imagine the ancient Bannaventa: but I err'd in my conjecture, and let my confession atone for it. As for the name, it may seem to have had it from the situation upon the north-side of the Aufona. The City it self, which seems to have been all of stone, is in it's buildings very neat and fine, for compass large enough, and wall'd about: from which walls there is a noble prospect every way into a spacious plain Country. On the west-side it hath an old Castle,10 [...]5. [...]egister of Andrews. beautiful even by it's antiquity, built by Simon de Sancto Licio, commonly call'd Senliz, the first of that name Earl of Northampton; who joyned likewise to it a beautiful Church dedicated to St. Andrew, for his own sepulture; and, as 'tis reported, re-edified the town. Simon the younger also, his son, founded without the townDe Pratis. De la Pree, a Nunnery. It seems to have lain dead and neglected during the Saxon Heptarchy, neither have our Writers made any where mention of it in all those depredations of the Danes; unless it was when Sueno the Dane with barbarous fury and outrage ravag'd all over England. For then, as Henry of Huntingdon reports, it was set on fire and burnt to the ground. In the reign of St. Edward there were in this City, as we find in Domesday, 60 Burgesses in the King's Domain, having as many Mansions: of these, in King William 1.'s time, 14 lay waste, and 47 remained. Over and above these there were in the new Borough 40 Burgesses in the Domain of K. William. After the Normans time, it valiantly withstood the siege laid to it by the Barons, during the troubles and slaughters with which they had then embroil'd the whole Kingdom. Who being maliciously bent against King John for private and particular reasons, did yet so cloak them with pretences of Religion and the common good, [...]rtitus [...]. that they termed themselves The Army of God and of Holy Church. At which time, they say, that military work was made, they call Hunshill. But it stood not out with like success against Hen. 3. their lawful King, as it did against those Rebels For when the Barons, brought up and now inur'd to sedition, begun a war against him in this place, he made a breach in the wall, and soon won it by assault. After this, as before also, the Kings now and then held their Parliaments here, for the conveniency of its situation, as it were in the very heart of England: and in the year of Christ 1460. a lamentable battel was here fought, wherein (such was the Civil division of England) after the slaughter of many of the Nobility, Richard Nevill Earl of Warwick took that most unfortunate Prince, King Hen. 6. then a second time made Prisoner by his subjects. To conclude, the longitude of Northampton our Mathematicians make 22 deg. 29 min. and the latitude 52 deg. 13 min. [d].
From hence the Nen hastens by Castle-Ashby, where Henry Lord Compton has begun a very fine House: near which is Yardley Hastings, Yardley. so sirnam'd of the Hastings once Earls of Pembroke, to whom it belong'dAnd, to turn a little aside, I may not omit Horton, when as King Henry 8. created Sir W. Par Lord thereof, Uncle and Chamberlain to Queen Catharine Par, Baron Par of Horton; which honour shortly vanish'd with him, when he left only daughters, who were married into the families of Tresham and Lane. But to return —; to Willingborow a market, anciently Wedlingborough And Wodlingborough made a Market by King John at the suit of the Monks of Crowland.. Here a rivulet from the east runs into it, coming down by Rushton and Newton belonging to the Treshams; by Geddington, where there was a Castle of the Kings, and where there yet remains a Cross erected in honour of Queen Eleanor, King Edward 1.'s Consort; by Boughton, belonging to the family of Montacutes Knights [e];Lib. in [...] in sca [...]cario. by Kettering Kettering. a well-traded market-town, near which stands Rouwell, a noted Horse-fair [f]; by Burton, the Barony likewise (if I mistake not the name) of Alan de Dinant, (for King Henry 1. gave him a Barony of that name in this County, for killing the French King's Champion in single Combat at Gizors;) and by Harrouden, the Lord whereofSir N. Nicholas Vaulx, Baron Vaulx. Governour of Guines in Picardy, K. Hen. 8. created Baron Vaulx of Harrouden.
Hence the Nen keeps his course to Higham, a townIn times past of the Peverells, and after by them of the Ferrers. formerly belonging to the Ferrers, from whom it took the name of Higham-Ferrers; Higham Ferrers. who had here also their Castle, the ruins whereof are yet to be seen near the Church. But the chief ornament of this place was Henry Chicheley Archb. of Canterbury, who founded here a fine College for Secular Clerks and Prebendaries,Founder of All-souls in Oxford Matth. Parker. as likewise an Hospital for the Poor. Thence it runs by Addington, anciently belonging to the Veres; and washes Thorpston commonly call'd Thrapston Belonging likewise to them., and it's opposite Drayton, the seat, in the last age, of H. Green, but afterwards by his daughter of John and Edward Stafford Earls of Wiltshire. Now 'tis the Lord Mordaunt's, to whom it descended hereditarily from the Greens, Gentlemen of great reputation in this County. Thence it runs almost round about a pretty little town, which takes it's name from it; Oundale Oundale. they call it, corruptly for Avondale, where there is nothing worth seeing, but a fine neat Church, a Free-school for the education of youth, and an Alms-house founded by Sir William Laxton sometime Lord Mayor of London. In the neighbourhood stands Barnwell, Barnwell. a little Castle, lately repair'd and beautified with new buildings by the worthy Sir Edward Mont-acute Knight, of the ancient family of the Mont-acutes, as appears by his Coat of Arms. It formerly belong'd to Berengarius le Moigne, that is, Monk, and not, as some think, to that Berengarius of Tours, whose opinion concerning the Eucharist was condemn'd in a SynodOf 113 Bishops. held by the Bishop of Rome. After this it salutes Fotheringhay-Castle, Fotheringhay. environ'd on every side with very pleasant Meadows, which in Henry 3.'s time (when the Strong-holds encourag'd the Nobility to revolt) was surpris'd by William Earl of Albemarle, who laid all the Country round about waste, as Matth. Paris informs us. At which time it seems to have belong'd to the Earls of HuntingdonWho were of the Royal race of Scotland.. A good while after, K. Edw. 3. assign'd itQuast in h [...]eredicatem. as it were, for an inheritance or Appennage (as they call it) to his son Edmund of Langley Duke of York, who rebuilt the Castle, and made the highest Fortification or Keep thereof in form of a Horse-Fetter Which hath of it self, and with a Falcon in it, was his Devise or Exprese, as implying that he was locked up from all great hope, as a younger brother., which was the family of York's Device. His son Edward, Duke of York, in the second year of Hen. 5. An. 1415. (as appears by an Inscription there in barbarous verse) founded a very fine Collegiate Church, [Page 435-436] wherein himself, after he was slain at the Battel of Agincourt, as also Richard Duke of York his Brother's son, who lost his life at Wakefield, and his Wife Cicely Nevil, had all magnificent monuments; which were thrown down and ruin'd, together with the upper part, [or Chancel] of the ChurchIn King Edward the sixth's time.. But Queen Elizabeth commanded two monuments to be set up in memory of them, in the lower end of the Church now standing; which nevertheless (such was their pinching and sparing who had the charge of the work) are look'd upon as very mean, and unworthy such great Princes descended from Kings, and from whom the kings of England are descendedThe form of the Keep beforesaid built like a Fetterlock occasioneth me to digress a little, and I hope with your pardon, when the gravest Authors in as small matters have done the like. Edmund of Langly Duke of York, who built that Keep, and garnish'd the Glass-windows there with Fetter-locks, when he saw his sons, being young scholars, gazing upon the painted windows, ask'd them, what was Latin for a Fetter-lock? They studying and looking silently one upon another, not able to answer: If you cannot tell me, says he, I will tell you, Hic, ha [...]c, hoc Taceatis, that is, Hic, haec, hoc, be silent, and quiet; and therewithal added: God knoweth what may happen hereafter. This King Edward the fourth, his great grand-child, reported publickly; when he having attained the Crown, created Richard his younger son Duke of York and then commanding that he should use for his badge the Fetter-lock open, to verifie the presage of his great grand-father. But this by the way.. The said Cicely Cicely Dutchess of York. saw plainly within the compass of a few years what pastimeImpotens. unruly and unconstant Fortune (if I may so say,) creates her self out of the miseries of the mighty. For she saw her husband Duke Richard, even then when he thought himself sure of the kingdom, and her son the Earl of Rutland, slain together in a bloody battel; and some few years after, her eldest son Edward the fourth advanc'd to theDeprived of the same, recovering it again. Crown, and taken away by an untimely death; having before made awayHer second son and &c. his brother, George Duke of Clarence. After this she saw her son Richard K Rich. 3. forcing his way to the Crown by the lamentable murder of his Nephews and slander of her his own Mother (for he charg'd her openly with incontinency;) then she saw him possess'd of the kingdom, and soon after slain in battel. These her miseries were so link'd together too, that the longer she liv'd, the greater sorrow she felt, and every day was more doleful than other. As for what here befel another most mighty Princess Mary Queen of Scots, I had rather it should be buried in oblivion, than once spoken of. Let it be for ever forgotten, if possible; if not, let it however be wrapped up in silence. Under the best of Princes, some there are who being once arm'd with authority, know how by secret slights to set a fair face of Conscience and Religon upon their own private designs: and some again, that sincerely and heartily consult true Religion, their Prince's security, and (which is the highest law) the publick safety. Neither can it be deny'd, but that even the best of Princes themselves are sometimes violently hurried away, as good Pilots, with Tempests, whither they would not. But what they do as crowned heads, we must leave to God, who only hath power over Kings.
The Nen now touching upon the edge of Huntingdonshire, and running under a fine Bridge at Walmesford, passes by Durobrivae, Durobrivae. a very ancient City, calld in Saxon Dormancester, as I said before; and which took up a great deal of ground on each side the River in both Counties. For the little village Caster, which stands a mile from the river, seems to have been a part of it, by the inlaid chequer'd pavements found there; tho' we read this Inscription of later date upon their Church-wall: ‘XV. KL. MAII DEDICATIO HVIVS ECCLESIAE MCXXIIII.’
The fifteenth day before the Kalends of May, in the year one thousand one hundred twenty four, was the dedication of this Church.
And doubtless it was a place of more than ordinary note; for in the adjoyning fields (which instead of Dormanton, they call Normanton-fields) such quantities of Roman coins are thrown up, that a man would really think they had been sown there: and two highways, the Cawseys whereof are still to be seen, went from hence; the one call'd Forty-foot-way, from its being forty foot broad, to Stanford; the other, nam'd Long-ditch, and High-street, by Lollham-bridges Lollham-B [...]idges. (bridges certainly of great antiquity, whereof eleven Arches are still to be seen, cleft and ruinous with age) through West-deping into Lincolnshire. At the first parting of these ways stands Upton, Upton. upon a rising ground, whence it took its name; where Sir Robert Wingfield Kt. descended from the ancient family of the Wingfields, that has brought forth abundance of renownd Knights, has a fine house with lovely walks. From Durobrivae or Dormanchester the river Nen passes on to Peterborough, Peterb [...] rough. a little city seated in the very Angle of this County, where Writers tell us there was a gulph in the river, of a prodigious depth, call'd Medes-well, and a town hard by it, nam'd thereupon Medes-well-hamsted, and Medes-hamsted. This (as Robert de Swapham informs us) was built in a very fine place, having on one side a Mere and excellent waters, on the other many woods, meadows, and pastures, every way beautiful to the eye; and inaccessible by land on the East side only. On the South side of the Burrough runs the river Nen. In the middle of this river there is a place so deep and cold, that in Summer none of your swimmers can dive to the bottom of it, nor yet is it ever frozen in winter. For there is a spring continually bubbling up water. This place was in ancient times call'd Medes-well; till such time as Wolpher King of the Mercians dedicated here a Monastery to St. Peter. And because the place was morish, he laid the foundation (as the same Robert affirms) with stones of a vast bigness, such, as eight yoke of Oxen would hardly draw one of them; which I my self saw when the Monastery was destroy'd. Afterwards it began to be call'd Peterborow or Burgh, Pet [...] ghs, Pet [...] p [...]s. and was a very famous Monastery. I cannot but think it worth the while to give you an account of its original and first building, abridg'd out of this Robert de Swapham (a Writer of good antiquity.) Peada the son of Penda, first Christian King of the Mercians, in the year of our Lord 10 656. for the propagation of the Christian Religion, laid the foundation of a Monastery at Medes hamsted, among the Girvians Or Finn-country.; which he liv'd not to finish, being made away by the wicked contrivances of his wife. After Peada, succeeded his brother Wolpher, a bitter enemy to the Christian Religion; who most inhumanly murder'd his own sons Wolphald and Rufin for their having embrac'd it. But he himself some few years after turn'd Christian, and to expiate his impieties with good works, he carried on the Monastery his brother had began; and with the help of his brother Etheldred and his sisters Kineburg and Kineswith, finish'd it in the year 633. and dedicated it to St. Peter (whence it came to be call'd Peterborow) endowing it with large revenues, and making Sexwulph, a man of great piety (who principally advis'd him to this work) first Abbot thereof. This Monastery flourish'd from thence-forth, under a fair character of sanctity, for about two hundred and fourteen years; till those dreadful times came when the Danes wasted all before them. Then were the Monks massacred, and the Monastery quite destroy'd; which lay as it were buried in its ruins for a hundred and nine years. At last about the year 960. Ethelwold Bishop of Winchester, a person wholly given up to the encouragement of Monkery, began to rebuild it, having the helping hand especially of King Edgar, and of Adulph the King's Chancellour, who, out of sorrow and repentance for his own and his wife's having over-laid a little infant their only son, spent his whole estate in re-edifying this Monastery, bid adieu to the world, and was made the first Abbot after its restoration. It has been ever since famous for its large revenues and great privileges; though in the reign of William the Norman, Herward an English Out-law made an excursion from the Isle of Ely, and plunder'd it of all its wealth; against whom Abbot-Turold erected the Fort Mont Turold. Mon [...] Tu [...]d Yet was it lookt upon as very rich, till within the memory of our fathers; when King Henry the eighth thrust out the Monks every where, (accusing them of not having observ'd the rule of those holy men the ancient Monks, and of having riotously wasted the goods of [Page 437-438] the Church, which were the patrimony of the poor;) and erected here a Bishoprick, assigning this County and Rutlandshire for its Diocese; a Deanery also, and Prebends. So that of a Monastery it became a Cathedral Church, which, if you survey its building, is very fine, even in respect of its antiquity; its Front is noble and majestick, its Cloisters fine and large; in the Glass-windows there is represented the history of Wolpher the founder, with the succession of its Abbots. St. Mary's Chapel is a large piece of building, and full of curious workmanship: and the Choir is very fine; wherein two Queens, as unfortunate as could be, Catharine of Spain, and Mary Queen of Scots, lye interr'd, finding rest here from all their miseries [g].
[...] Penns.Beneath Peterborow, the Nen, by this time remov'd about five and forty miles from its Spring-head, and carrying along with it in its chanel all the little streams and land-floods occasion'd by rain, divides it self into several branches. And by this means, finding no certain course for its stream, diffuses its waters all abroad the plain Country, and overflows it far and near in the winter, nay, and sometimes the greater part of the year; so that it seems to be a vast level Ocean, with here and there an Island bearing up and appearing above the surface of the waters. The cause the neighbouring people alledge to be this; that of the three chanels, in which such a vast deal of waters was us'd to be convey'd, the first that went to the Ocean by Thorney Abby, and thence aside by Clowscross and Crow-land; the second also, by the cut made by Morton Bishop of Ely, call'd the New Leame, and then by Wisbich; have a long time been neglected: and upon this account, that the third which bends its course down by Horsey-bridge, Wittles-mere, Ramsey-mere, and Salters-load is not able to receive so much water; so that it breaks out with more violence upon the adjoyning Flats. And the Country complains of the injury done them, as well by those who have neglected the keeping open and clearing the chanels, as by others that have diverted the water to their private uses: and as the Reatines in Tacitus, they say, That Nature her self hath well provided for man's use in giving all rivers their issues and courses, and their endings as well as their springs. But of this enough, if not too much.
In this place the County is narrowest; for between the Nen and the river Welland (one of the boundaries on the North-side,) it is scarce five miles over. Upon the Welland, which Ethelwerd an ancient Writer callsThe Saxon-Annals, p. 109. call it Weolud, and Florence of Worcester Welund. Weolod, near its spring stands Braibrooke Castle, B. brooke. Lords of B. brooke. built by Robert May, aliàs de Braibrok, a great favourite of King John's; whose son Henry having married Christiana Ledet an heiress of a great estate, his eldest son took the sirname of Ledet. From one of whose grand daughters by his son (as I said before) it fell to the Latimers, and from them to the Griffins, who now enjoy it [h]. Hard by amongst the woods I saw some few remains of a Monastery, call'd anciently De Divisis, now Pipwell, P [...]pwell. founded by William Buttevillein for Cistercian Monks in the reign of Henry the second. From thence we have a sight of Rockingham, a Castle sometime of the Earls of Albemarle, built by King William the Conquerour; at which time it was a Waste (as we find in Domesday-bookDomesday-book.) fortified with rampires, bulwarks, and a double range of battlements, seated upon [the side of] an hill in a woody forest, thereupon named Rockingham Forest [i]. It runs next by Heringworth, the seat formerly of theDe Cantempo. Cantlows, and now of the Lords Zouch, who fetch their original from Eudo a younger son of Alan de la Zouch Lords Zouch. of Ashby, and have grown up to an honourable family of Barons; having been much enobled by matches with one of the heirs of Cantlow, and also with another of BaronDe Sancto Mauro. Seymour; who likewise drew his pedigree from the heir of the Lord Zouch of Ashby, and the Lovels Lords of Castle-Cary in Somersetshire [k].
Here also in this Forest I saw Deane, belonging anciently to the Deanes, afterwards to the Tindals; which is worth mentioning, if it were but for its being at present a pleasant seat of the Brudenels; of which Family Sir Edmund Brudenel Kt. lately deceased, was a great lover and admirer of venerable antiquity. The family likewise of Engain, Barons of Engain. which was both ancient and honourable, had their seat hard by at Blatherwic (where now live the House of Staffords Knights, descended from Ralph the first Earl of Stafford) and converted their Castle, named Hymel, into a Monastery call'd Finisheved. Their Issue-male fail'd about 200 years ago; but of the daughters, the eldest was married to Sir John Goldington, the second to Sir Lawrence Pabenham, and the third to Sir William Bernack, Knights of great worth and honour. Here also we see Apthorp, It is now the possession of the right honourable the Earl of Westmorland. the seat of that worthy Knight Sir Anthony Mildemay, whose father Walter Mildemay, late Privy Councellor to Queen Elizabeth, for his virtue, wisdom, piety, favour to learning and learned men, (shown by founding Emanuel-College in Cambridg) hath worthily deserv'd to be registred among the best men of this age. In the neighbourhood stands Thornhaugh, Thornhaugh. belonging formerly to the family ofDe Sancto Medardo. Semarc, and now to the right honourable William Russel son of Francis Earl of Bedford, descended of the same family [of Semarc,] whom King James for his virtues and faithful service in Ireland while he was Lord Deputy there, advanced to the dignity of Baron Russel of Thornhaugh. Neither is the little Town of Welledon Welledon. Bassets of Welledon. to be past by, considering that anciently it went for a Barony, which by Maud daughter and heir of Geoffrey de Ridell (who was drown'd with King Henry the first's son) descended to Richard Basset Lord Chief Justice of England; in whose race it continued till K. Henry the fourth's time, when (Male-issue failing) it fell by the females to the Knevetts and Alesburies.
From Heringworth, the Welland visits Colliweston, where the Lady Margaret Countess of Richmond, King Henry the seventh's mother, built a fine house. Beneath Colliweston, the neighbouring inhabitants dig great store of SlatesSlates for covering Houses. for building. From hence Wittering-heath, a plain, runs out a long way Eastward; upon which the Inhabitants tell you the Danes receiv'd a memorable overthrow. And now, Welland arrives at Burghley, a most beautiful seat, from which that singularly wise and honourable Councellor Sir William Cecil, Lord high Treasurer of England, the great support of this Nation, receiv'd the title of Baron Burghley, Burghley. Baron Burghley. at the hands of Queen Elizabeth. This house he adorn'd with the lustre of his own virtues, and beautify'd with magnificent buildings; laying to it a large Park (for thatParcus. word Varro uses) encompass'd with a Stone-wall of great circumference [l]. Below this at Berneck, lye the old Stone Quarries, out of which the Abbies of Peterborow and Ramsey were built. Here (to use the very words of the History of Ramsey) The toiling strength of the Quarriers is often exercis'd, yet still there remains work, whereon to employ them; resting and refreshing them now and then by a cessation. And we read in King Edward the Confessor's Charter, In consideration of 4000 Eeles in Lent, the Monks of Ramsey shall have out of the Territory of St. Peter so much square stone as they need, at Berneck, and of rough stone for walls, at Burch. Beneath Berneck, that Roman way, which the neighbouring Inhabitants call the Forty-foot way from its breadth, cuts this Shire in two between Caster and Stamford, and appears in an high Causey; especially by the little wood of Berneck, where it has a Beacon set upon the very ridge, and so runs along by Burghley-Park-wall.
Some few miles hence, the Welland runs down by Maxey-Castle, Maxey. formerly belonging to the Barons of Wake; and by Peag-Kirke, Peag-Kirk. Ingu phus. (where in the infancy of Christianity in England, Pega, a holy woman, who gave name to that place, sister of St. Guthlac, with other devout Virgins, by their life and example gave excellent documents of Piety and Chastity;) and so comes to the Fenns, so often mention'd. And by reason the bank on the South-side thereof is neglected, the river over-flows the adjacent Lands (to the [Page 439-440] great damage of the proprietors,) and having broken thus out of it's chanel, which went formerly by Spalding, it falls into the Nen, and extreamly overcharges it.
The lesser Avon, which is the other boundary (as I said) of this Shire northward, but serves for a limit only about 5 or 6 miles; breaking out of the ground near the springs of the Welland, runs westward bySuleby, sometimes an Abby of black Monks, and by, &c. Stanford Stanford. upon Avon, seat of the family of Cave, Cave. out of which several branches of good note have dispers'd themselves in all the neighbouring Tract; also by Lilburne, the seat, in former ages, of the Canvils. That this hath been anciently a Roman Station, I am persuaded by it's situation upon one of their Military ways, by the ancient Trenches there, and a little piked Hill cast up, which some dug of late days, in hopes of finding old hidden treasures; but instead of Gold they met with Coals. And thus this little river, after it's passing under Dowbridge, leaves Northamptonshire, and enters Warwickshire.
Bounds of the Ancients.From the digging up of those Coals, what if I should give a guess that this Hill was thrown up for a mark or Boundary? since Siculus Flaccus tells us, that either Ashes, or Coals, or Potsherds, or broken Glasses, or Bones half burnt, or Lime, or Plaister, were wont to be put under such marks or limits; and St. Augustin writes thus of Coals,Lib. de Civ. Dei, 21. c. 4. Is it not a wonderful thing, considering Coals are so brittle that with the least blow they break, with the least pressure they are crush'd in pieces, yet no time can conquer them; insomuch, that they that pitch'd Land-marks, were wont to throw them underneath, to convince any litigious fellow whatsoever that came never so long time after and should affirm that no Land-mark was there made. And so much the rather am I inclined to this conjecture, because they that have written of limits do inform us, that certain Hillocks, which they termed Botontines, Boton tines. Hence perhaps come our Buttings. were plac'd in the limits. So that I suppose most of these Mounts and round Hillocks, which we see all hereaboutsAnd call Burrows., were raised for this purpose; and that Ashes, Coals, Potsherds, &c. might be found under them, if they dug deeper into the ground.
Earls of Northampton.The first Earl that this County had, at least that I know of, was Waldeof, son of the warlike Siward, who being also Earl of Huntingdon, lost his head for treason against William the Conquerour, leaving only two daughters behind him, which he had by Judith, the Conquerour's niece by a sister on the mother's side.The Life [...]. Simon De S. [...] Sylvaneciens [...]. Sinlis being scornfully rejected by Judith the mother, upon account of being lame in his legs, married Maud the eldest daughter, and built St. Andrew's Church, and the Castle at Northampton. After him succeeded his son Simon 2. who was a long time at law about his mother's estate, with David King of Scots, his mother's second husband: and having sided with King Stephen, in the year of our Lord 1152. died, with thisElogia. elogy, A youth full of every thing that was unlawful, every thing that was unseemly. His son Simon 3. going on with the suit against the Scots for his right to the Earldom of Huntingdon, wasted his whole estate; but thro' the favour of King Hen. 2. married the daughter and heir of Gilbert de Gant Earl of Lincoln; and having at last recover'd the Earldom of Huntingdon, and disseis'd the Scots, died issueless in the year 1185. Many years after, King Edw. 3. created William de Bohun, a person of approved valour, Earl of Northampton: and when his elder brother Humfrey de Bohun, Earl of Hereford and Essex, and High Constable of England, was not able in that warlike Age to bear the charge of Constable, he made him also High Constable of England. After him, his son Humfrey succeeding in the Earldom of Northampton, as also in the Earldoms of Hereford and Essex upon his Uncle's dying issueless, had two daughters; the one married to Thomas of Woodstock, youngest son to King Edw. 3. the other to Henry of Lancaster Duke of Hereford, afterwards King of England. The daughter of Thomas of Woodstock brought by her marriage this her grandfather's title of Northampton, together with others, into the family of the Staffords. But when they had lost their honours, King Edw. 6. honour'd William Par Earl of Essex, a most accomplish'd Courtier, with the title of Marquiss of Northampton; who, within our memory, died issueless. And now, while I am upon this work, our most serene Sovereign King James, in the year of our Lord 1603. at one and the same time has advanced Henry Howard Brother of the last Duke of Norfolk (a person of excellent wit and fluent eloquence, a complete master of Arts and Sciences, exceeding prudent and provident) to the degree and stile of Baron Howard of Marnehill, and the honour of Earl of Northampton.
There belong to this Shire 326 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to NORTHAMPTONSHIRE.
[a] THE County of Northampton, at the time of the Conquerour's Survey, was something larger than now it is. For all the south part of Rutlandshire must have been taken out of it, because in Domesday-book we meet with the towns in this tract under the title of Northamptonshire. 'Tis a County so plentiful in all things necessary to life, that it does not need, nor indeed will allow much of manufacture; the ground abundantly maintaining and fully employing the Inhabitants.Full Wor. pag. 279. It is said, that of Cloathing has been attempted with great application, but at last came to nothing. The thinness of it's woods (observ'd by our Author) and it's distance from the sea (so that no Coal can come by water,) makes fuel extreme dear.
[b] On the west-side of this Shire is Grafton, Grafton. which was held in capite by John de S. Mauro or Seymour An. 14 Edw. 3., by the service of keeping one white Bracket of the King's, having red ears. This Bracket seems to have been the same with the ancient Bracco, which signify'd those lesser sort of dogs that scent out for game. The place hath given the title of Duke to Henry Fitz-Roy, Baron of Sudbury, Viscount Ipswich, and Earl of Euston, created Duke of Grafton Sept. 11. 1675. which honours Charles of the same name at present enjoys.
[c] The river Avon, our Author will have to be the Antona of Tacitus: but if the sense of the Historian be (as a later writer has interpreted it) that Ostorius block'd up the Britains between the rivers Antona and Sabrina, it is impossible for any one to fix it here, since the Avon and Severn are so far from joyning, that they take almost a quite contrary course. From the whole series of that Action, and the thred of the history, 'tis much more probable it was that Avon which runs into the Severn; as is observ'd in the Additions to Wiltshire.
[d] Upon this Avon stands the chief town of the County, Northampton, Northampton. which our Author imagines might take the name from it's situation upon the north-side of this river. And the conjecture were plausible enough, were they any thing besides mere fancy, to justifie that it's old name was Northafandon. But the ancient Saxon-Annals call it simply Hamtun (as well as they do Southampton,) and never use our present name till some time after the Conquest, and then write it expresly NorðHamtun and Norðamtun. So that it plainly appears, that it never had any relation to the river upon which it stands; but being at [Page]
[Page] [Page 441-442] first call'd Hamtun (as numbers of other towns were, and still are,) had probably the initial Norð put to it, when it and Southampton, (call'd also Hamtun) grew considerable in the world. The town had flourish'd and encreast for many ages together, when in ours a most lamentable fire laid it entirely in ashes. But the liberal contributions of the Kingdom rais'd it up again with much greater beauty; so that now 'tis perhaps one of the most neat complete towns in the Kingdom.
The old townLe [...]ltin. MS. had within the walls seven Parish-Churches, besides two that were in the Suburbs: so that it must have been large and populous. About the latter end of Hen. 3.Full. Hist. of Cambr. p. 13. it was made choice of by some scholars of the University of Cambridge, for a retirement, occasion'd by the quarrels that were then on foot. Here they met with many Oxford-men, who had come away upon the like occasion; and so for a while (with the King's leave) prosecuted their Studies along with them: by which means it had some face of an University. 'Tis possible enough that the place in this town which was call'd the College might be a remain of their presence here. But after three years continuance (as appears by the King's Letters) it was dissolv'd, and express orders given, that no one should, for the future, study there as in an University; because (as the said Letters intimate) it was a manifest damage and inconvenience to the ancient University of Oxford.
[e] Within the Demesnes of Boughton, Boughton. Full. Wor. p. 280. is a spring which incrustateth wood, or any thing that falls into it, with a stony substance. There was preserv'd in Sidney College in Cambridge, a skull brought from thence, all over stone both within and without: it was sent for by King Charles 1. but was safely return'd to the College.
[f] At some distance from hence is Naseby, Naseby. eminent of late years for the bloody battel fought there in the year 1645. between his Majesty King Char. 1. and the Parliament-Army. There are now no signs of a fight remaining, except some few holes, which were the burying-places of the dead men and horses. The town is said by some to stand upon the highest ground in England.
[g] The History of Peterburrow Peterburrow. is so distinctly deliver'd by our Author, and since his time so accurately handl'd in a separate Volume; that 'tis in vain to attempt any farther discoveries about it. We shall only observe (what is agreeable to our method and design) that it has of late years afforded the title of Earl to John Lord Mordant, created Mar. 9.3 Car. 1. who in the year 1643. was succeeded in that honour by Henry Lord Mordant his son.
[h] South-west from Braybroke is Sibertoste, [...]bertoste. which manour Nicholas de Archer in the time of Edw.Edw. 1. 1. held by the Service of carrying the King his bow thro' all the forests in England.
[i] Not far from Rockingham is Laxton, [...]axton. wherein there were lands held by the Service of hunting in all the King's forests and parks throughout Oxfordshire, [...] 2 Ed. 2. [...] An 4 4. Buckinghamshire, Huntingdonshire, and this County, to destroy all the vermin in each of them. And the manour of Hightesley was held upon condition to find dogs for the destruction of wolves, foxes, &c.
[k] Haringworth, [...]ing [...]orth. which in our Author's time belong'd to the Lords Zouch, has been since sold to a Gentleman who has a fair seat at Bullick hard by. Only, where the great house formerly stood, there was a Chapel in which the family of the Zouches were bury'd; and that, with the monuments therein, was reserv'd to the said family. But now 'tis almost quite ruinated, the roof fall'n in, some of the walls down, and the floor rooted up by hogs.
[l] But the most stately seat of these parts is Burghley, Burghley. a noble pile of stone-building; rais'd indeed about a hundred years since by William Lord Burghley, but adorn'd and beautify'd by the present Earl of Exeter. For loftiness of rooms, great variety of pictures, terrasses, conduits, fish-ponds, fountains, &c. it may vie with the best in England. The painting and carving are so curious, that some travellers have affirm'd they have met with nothing either in Italy or France that exceeds them. The park is improv'd by planting a multitude of walks of ash, elm, chesnut, and several other sorts of trees. Thro' this park passeth the old Roman way mention'd by our Author, and so on to Walcote, above Berneck, and not beneath, as he tells us.
At Wothorpe, a little distance from this, the Earl of Exeter hath another handsom seat with a little park wall'd about. It was built by Thomas Cecil Earl of Exeter; and tho' not very small (for after the Restoration, it was large enough to hold the late Duke of Buckingham and his family for some years,) yet so mean did it seem in comparison of the former, that its Founder pleasantly said, he built it only to retire to out of the dust, while his great house of Burleigh was a-sweeping.
Continuation of the EARLS.
Henry Howard (the last Earl mention'd by our Author) having never marry'd, and dying 15. June 1614. this honour in the year 1618. was conferr'd upon William Lord Compton, Lord President of Wales, who was succeeded first by Spenser his son and heir, then by James his grandson, son and heir to the said Spenser; and at present the honour is enjoy'd by George of the same name, son to James aforesaid.
More rare Plants growing wild in Northamptonshire.
Eryngium vulgare J. B. vulgare & Camerarii C. B. mediterraneum Ger. mediterraneum seu campestre Park. Common Eryngo. This was sent me by Mr. Thornton, who observed it not far from Daventry, beside the old Roman way called Watlingstreet, near a village named Brookhall.
Gentiana concava Ger. Saponaria concava Anglica C. B. folio convoluto J. B. Anglica folio convoluto Park. Hollow-leaved Gentian, or rather Sopewort. This was first found by Gerard in a small grove of a wood called the Spinney, near Lichbarrow.
Gnaphalium montanum sive Pes cati Park. Mountain-Cudweed or Catsfoot. On Bernake heath, not far from Stamford.
Pulsatilla Anglica purpurea Park. parad. flore clauso caeruleo J. B. Common Pasque-flower. On the same heath in great plenty. See the Synonymes in Cambridgeshire.
Millefolium palustre flore luteo galericulato. Hooded Water-Milfoil. In the ditches by the rivers-side as you go from Peterborough to Thorp.
LEICESTERSHIRE.
NORTH of Northamptonshire lies the County of Leicester. In the Survey-Book which William the Norman made of England, it is call'd Ledecesterscyre, but now commonly Leicestershire. It is all a champain country, rich in corn and grain, but the greatest part of it deficient in woods. It is encompass'd on the east with Rutland and Lincolnshire, on the north with Nottingham and Derbyshire, on the west with Warwickshire (from which it is parted by the Military-way of the old Romans call'd Watlingstreet, which runs along the west skirts of this County;) and on the south (as I observ'd before) it is limited by Northamptonshire. The river Soar passeth through the middle of this County to the Trent; but in the east parts there gently runs a small stream call'd the Wreke, which at last falls into the Soar.
On the South-side (where the County is bounded on one hand with the river Avon the less, and on the other with the Welland) nothing worthy of note presents it self; unless it be near the head and first rising of the Welland, the town of Haverburg, commonly call'dBurton's Leicestershire, p. 127. Harborrow, Harborrow famous for its Fair for Cattle; and not far distant from thenceIbid. p. 67. Carleton, Carleton. Curleu. that is, the town of Husbandmen. I know not whether it be worth relating, but most of the natives of this town, either from some peculiar quality of the soil, or water, or other unknown cause in nature, have a harsh and ungrateful manner of speech, with a guttural and difficult pronunciation, and a strangeRhotacismus. wharling in the utterance of their words [a].
Watlingstreet.The Roman way before-mention'd, whose cawsey being in other places worn away, here shews it self very plainly, runs north, almost in a direct line along the west-side of this County. You may perhaps laugh at my expensive diligence, as vainly curious; but I have follow'd the tract of this way very intently from the Thames into Wales, for the discovery of places of Antiquity [b]; nor could I expect to meet with any other more faithful guideFor the finding out of those said Towns which Antonine the Emperour specifieth in his Itinerary. for that purpose. This Way having past Dowbridge, where it leaves Northamptonshire, is first interrupted by the river Swift, which is but a slow stream, tho' the name imports the contrary; but to that it answers only in the winter-time. The bridge over which this road was heretofore continu'd, they call Bransford-bridge, and Bensford; it was a long time broken down, and that occasion'd this famous way to be for many years little frequented; but now it is repair'd at the charge of the publick. Adjoyning on the one hand, westward, lyes Cester-Over, Cester-over but in Warwickshire; a place worthy of note, were it only for the Lord thereof SirHe was created a Baron of this kingdom in the 18th year of King James 1. by the title of Lord Brook of Beauchamp's Court, in the County of Warwick. Fulk Grevill Kt. a person of extraordinary merit; and yet the name speaks it a place of antiquity, for our Ancestors never gave the name of Cester, but only to ancient Cities or Castles. On the other hand, eastward, on this side of Swift Which springeth near Knaptoft, the seat of the Turpins a knightly house, descended from an heir of the Gobions., lyes Misterton belonging to the famous and ancient family of the Poultneys Who took that name of Poulteney, a place now decay'd within the said Lordship.; and beyond the river, Lutterworth, a small market-town, formerly (as report says) the possession of the Verdons Which only sheweth a fair Church, which hath been encreas'd by the Feldings of Knights Degree and ancient Gentry in this Shire..A petrifying well. Near which is a spring of water so very cold, that in a little time it converts straws and sticks into stone. Rector of this Church heretofore was the famous John Wickliff, John Wickliff dy'd 1387. a man of a close subtil wit, and very well verst in the sacred Scriptures; who having sharpen'd his pen against the Pope's authority, and the Roman ChurchAnd Religious men., was not only grievously persecuted in his life time; but one and forty years after his death, by command of the Council of Sienna, his body was in a barbarous manner taken out of his grave, and burnt.
From Bensford-bridge the Old-way goes up to Highcross, so call'd, because formerly a cross was erected in that high place; instead of which there is now a high post set up, with props to support it. The neighbouring Inhabitants told me that the two principal ways of England did here cross; and that in this place stood once a most flourishing city, call d Cley-cester, Cleycester. which had a Senate of it's own; and that Cley-brook, Cleybrook. near a mile distant from hence, was part of the old Cleycester. They say also that on both sides of this way, great foundations of squar'd-stone have been discover'd under ground, and Roman coins frequently cast up by the plow. However, above ground, as the Poet says,
These things consider'd, with its distance from Banaventa, or Wedon (which agrees exactly) and that bridge call'd Bensford, are inducements to believe that the Bennones Bennones. or Venones, which mansion Antoninus places next after Bannaventa, were seated here. And the rather, because Antoninus tells us that the way here parted into two branches, which also is the vulgar observation. For North-east-ward the Fosse-way leads to Lincoln by Ratae, and Vernometum, (of which places more hereafter;) and to the North-west Watlingstreet goes directly into Wales by Manvessedum; of which in its proper place when I come to Warwickshire [c].
More above, on the side of the foresaid way stands Hinckley, Hinckley. formerly belonging to the Lord Hugh Grantmaisnill A Norman., High-steward, or Seneschal of England, in the reigns of William Rufus, and Henry 1. He had two daughters, Petronilla or Parnel, marry'd to Robert Blanchemaines (so call'd from the whiteness of his hands) Earl of Leicester, with whom he had the Stewardship of England; and Alice, married to Roger Bigot. At the East-end of this Church are to be seen trenches and rampires cast up to a great height, which the Inhabitants say was Hugh's-castle. Three miles from hence lyes Bosworth, Bosworth. an ancient market-town;For distinction from another of the same name in the Hundred of Gartery, it is call'd commonly Market-Bosworth. Burton, p. 47. which liberty, with its Fairs, Richard Harecourt obtain'd from King Edward 1.The battel was fought at three miles distance from this town; but because this was the most remarkable, it was therefore said to be at Bosworth-field. Mr. Burton, (Hist. of Leicestershire, p. 47.) has given us several remains of that engagement, as, pieces of armour, arrow-heads, &c. digg'd up there. Near this town, within the memory of our grandfathers, the right of the Crown of England happen'd to be finally determin'd by a battel. For there Henry Earl of Richmond, with a small body of men, gave battel to Richard the third, who in a most wicked manner had usurp'd the Crown; and whilst for the liberty of his Country Henry with his party valiantly expos'd himself to death, he happily overcame, and slew the Tyrant; and in the midst of blood and slaughter, was with joyful acclamations saluted King, having by his valour deliver'd England from the dominion of a tyrant, and by his prudence eas'd the nation from the disquiet of civil dissentions [d]. Hereupon Bernardus Andreas, a Poet of Tholouse who liv'd in those days, in an Ode to Henry 7. alludes thus to the Roses, which were theInsignia. Device of that King;
Other things worthy our mention near this way, we do not meet with; unless it be at a greater distance,This place is largely desrib'd by Mr. Burton in his History of Leicestershire, p. 16. Ashby de la Zouch, Ashby. Barons Zouch of Ashby. a most pleasant town, now belonging to the Earls of Huntingdon, formerly to Alan de la Zouch Who descended from Alan Viscount of Rohan in Little-Britain, and Constantia his wife, daughter to Conan le Grosse Earl of Britain, and Maud his wife, the natural daughter of Henry the first., a Baron, who bore for his arms on a Shield Gules, 10 Bezants. This man having marry'd one of the heiresses of Roger de Quincy Earl of Winchester, in her right came to a great estate in this County: but having commenced a suit against John Earl of Warren, who chose rather to determine the matter by Sword than by Law, he was kill'd by him in the King's-hall at Westminster, An. 1279. And some few years after, the daughters and heirs of his Nephew convey'd this estate by their marriages, into the families of Seymour Of Castle Cary., and Holland Hollands. Yet their father first bestow'd this Ashby upon Sir Richard Mortimer of Richards-castle his Cousin, whose youger issue thereupon took the surname of Zouch; and were Lords of Ashby. But from Eudo a younger son of Alane, who was slain in Westminster-hall, the Lords Zouch of Haringworth branch'd out, and have been for many descents Barons of the Realm.. But this town came afterwards to the family of Hastings, who have here a very magnificent seat; of which family, William procured from Henry the sixth the privilege of certain Fairs. Nor ought I to pass over in silence [Page 445-446] Cole-Overton, [...]ton. the seat of H. de Bellomont or Beaumont Descended from Sir Thomas Beaumont, Lord of Bachevill in Normandy, brother to the first Viscount. Which Sir Thomas (as some write) was he who was slain manfully fighting at such time as the French recover'd Paris from the English in the time of King Henry the sixth., branch'd from that famous family of the Viscounts de Bellomont. It hath a name of distinction, from Pit-Coles, [...] Coles. being a bituminous earth harden'd by nature, and here (to the Lord of the Manour's great profit) digg'd up in such plenty, as to supply the neighbouring Country all about with firing.
The river Soar (as I have already observ'd) cuts through the middle of this County; which rising not far from the Street-way, and encreasing with the addition of many running waters, flows gently Northward, and in its course passes by the West and Northsides of the principal town of the Shire; call'd by Author'sIn the Saxon it has several names, according to the several Copies; Legerceaster, Ligoraceaster, Lygraceaster, Legraceaster, Legoraceaster. In reading our ancient Histories, it ought to be carefully distinguish'd from the British Caerlegion, or Caerleon (West-Chester,) which is nam'd Legeceaster, Legaceaster, and by middle ag'd writers Legacestre. See a large description of this place in Mr. Burton's Antiquities of Leicestershire, p. 160, &c. Lege-cestria, Leogora, Legeo-cester, and Leicester. Leicester. It is a place that shows great antiquity, and no less beauty in its buildings. In the year 680, when Sexwulph by King Ethelred's order, divided the kingdom of the Mercians into Dioceses, he plac'd here a Bishop's seat, and became himself the first Bishop of this See. But after few years, the See being translated to another place, that dignity determin'd, and the reputation of the town by little and little decay'd; till Edelfleda a noble Lady, in the year after our Saviour's nativity 914, repair'd and fortify'd the place with new walls; so that Matthew Paris in his Lesser History writes thus; Legecestria is a most wealthy city, and encompast with an indissoluble wall, of which if the foundation were strong and good, the place would be inferiour to no city whatsoever. At the coming in of the Normans, it was well peopled and frequented, and had many Burgesses, Twelve of whom (as we find recorded in William the first's Book) were by ancient Tenure to go with the King as often as he went to war. But in case he made an expedition by sea, then they sent four horses as far as London for the carriage of arms, or other necessaries. This town paid to the King yearly thirty pounds by tale, and twenty in Ore That is by weight., and five and twenty A measure containing our pint and a half, or in weight 24 ounces. Sextaries of Honey. This (as Mr. Burton observes) was done by Richard Lucie, Lord Chief Justice of England, to whom the government of this nation was committed, the King then being absent in Ireland, A. D. 1173. But in the time of Henry the second it was oppress'd with great miseries, and the walls demolisht; when Robert, sirnam'd Bossu, that is, Crook-back, Earl of Leicester, endeavour'd an insurrection against his Prince. Which Matthew Paris delivers in these words: 1173 For the contumacy of Earl Robert in opposing the King, the noble city of Leicester was besieged, and ruin'd by King Henry, and the wall which seem'd indissoluble, thrown down to the very foundation, quite round. Let me add out of the said Lesser History, That the walls, being faulty in the foundations, when they were undermin'd, and the props burnt that supported them, fell in great pieces, which remain Matthew Paris dy'd in the year 1259. so that these walls were seen in this condition 86 years after their destruction; but how much longer is uncertain. to this day in the shape of rocks for bigness and solidity; such was the indissoluble tenacity of the morter. Miserable was the condition of these citizens at that time, both in relation to their fines and banishment; who having purchased for a sum of money, licence to depart, were notwithstanding so terrify'd, that they were forc'd to take Sanctuary at St. Albans and St. Edmunds-bury. Also the Castle here, which was really a large and strong building, was dismantled. Beneath which is a very fair Collegiate Hospital, or receptacle for the poor; in the Church whereof, Henry Earl of Lancaster, and Henry of Lancaster, his son, who was the first Duke of Lancaster,133 [...]. lye buried. Which Duke, in his latter days, built and dedicated the same with a pious intention, for the maintenance of poor people. Of which thus Henry Knighton of Leicestershire, who liv'd in that age: Henry Duke of Lancaster was the first founder of the Collegiate Church and Hospital without the South gate at Leicester, in which he plac'd a Dean and 12 Canons Prebendaries, as many Vicars, and other Ministri. ministers, one hundred poor and weak men, and ten able women to serve and assist the sick and weak; and sufficiently endow'd the said Hospital As for this Hospital it continueth in some good state, as another Beadhouse in the town built by W. Wigeston. But the Collegiate Church, which was a magnificent work, and the greatest ornament of Leicester, was demolish'd when Religious houses were granted to the King.. On the other side of the town, amongst pleasant meadows water'd by the Soar, was a Monastery, call'd from its situation,De prees. De pratis; of which thus the foresaid Knighton writes, Robert le Bossu, Earl of Leicester When he began Gerondon-Abby for Cistercians., 1143 founded the Monastery of S. Mary de Prees of Leicester, and richly endow'd the same with lands, possessions, and rents; himself also, by consent of Amicia his wife, became a Canon Regular in the same, and fifteen years serv'd God there in that Regular habit; and dy'd in the Lord, a Canon. Thus he took upon him the Canonical habit by way of penance, for having been in arms against his Prince [e]. What name Leicester bore in the times of the Romans does not appear. I think it is called in the Catalogue of Ninnius, Caer Lerion; but that it was built by the fabulous KingIt has its name (says Mr. Somner) from the river Leire, which at this day is call'd Soare; and this is confirm'd by a town nam'd Leare, which lyes at the head of it. Leir, let who will believe for me. Yet its situation on the Military-way call'd the Foss, and its distance from the Bennones [High-cross] and Verometum [Burrow-hill] agrees so exactly with the description of Antoninus, that I cannot but believe, that this is the Ratae, Ratae. which in Ptolemy is call'd Ragae; tho' there is not the least track or sign of the name Ratae now remaining,About three miles from Leicester, there is a place call'd Rathy; but that can hardly pretend to be the ancient Ratae, both because it shows no remains of Antiquity, and likewise because it is remote from the Roman Fosse. unless perhaps it be an old trench scarce half a mile distant on the Southside of Leicester, call'd Rawdikes Or Road-dikes..
Here I am at a stand, and look about me to see what way I should follow, as a guide to the discovery of ancient towns. Ranulph the Monk of Chester tells us, that the old Street-way goes from hence to Lincoln through the Wasts; but through what Wasts he shews not. The vulgar opinion is, that it went on to the north through Nottinghamshire. Antoninus the Emperour (if I mistake not) seems to intimate that it went northward through this County into Lincolnshire. And really this way, the footsteps of some places of antiquity appear, of which we shall speak in their order: but that way, tho' I have made diligent search, I have not hitherto discover'd any thing; what others may have done, I know not.
North-west from Leicester. Not far from hence, isSee the description of it in Burton's Leicestershire, p. 122. Grooby, Grooby. a rich and ample estate, or (as we call it) a Manour. Which from Hugh Grantnaismill (whom William the first enricht with great revenues) descended, by the Earls of Leicester and the Quincys, to the family of the Ferrars; of which family were the Lords Ferrars of Grooby, Ferrars and Grays of Grooby. who a long time enjoy'd the honour of Barons; but at last leaving one only daughter, Isabella, she by marriage convey'd the same into the name of the Greys, from whom it came again to the Crown by Attainder. But while I am revising this work, James our Soveraign Lord and King, has restor'd Sir Henry Grey; a most worthy Knight, to this honour of his Ancestors, having before his Coronation created him Baron Grey of Grooby.
Let us now return to the river Soar, which having past Leicester, giveth name in the first place to Montsorell, or rather Mont-Soar-hill, Mont-Sore-hill. compounded of the Norman and English languages; now only noted for its market [f]; but heretofore most famous for its Castle, seated on a steep and craggy hill, and over-hanging the river: this first belong'd to the Earls of Leicester, afterwards to Saher de Quincy, Earl of Winchester, in the Barons war. At this day there remains nothing but a heap of rubbish.Histor. minor. For in the year 1217. the Inhabitants of these parts, having after a long siege taken the castle, pull'd it down to the ground as a nest of the Devil, and a [Page 447-448] den of Thieves and Robbers. Higher, on the other side of the river is Barrow, where is digg'd the best and most approv'd sort ofCaln. lime for firm building. A few miles from thence the Soar ends its course in the river Trent A little above Cotes, now the habitation of the family of Skipwith, originally descended out of Yorkshire, and enrich'd many years since with fair possessions in Lincolnshire, by an heir of Ormesby.. A little on this side of which, isSee Burton's Leicestersh. p. 181. Loughborrow, Loughborrow. a market town, that in the reign of Queen Mary had one Baron, Edward Hastings, dignify'd with this title [g]; but upon the death of that Queen, who had a great affection for him, he, cloy'd with the affairs of this world, refus'd to live longer in it, and devoting himself wholly to God, retir d into the Hospital which he had erected at Stoke Pogeis in Buckinghamshire; where, among the poor people, he liv'd to God, and with them finish'd the course of his life devoutly in Christ.Where 'tis call'd Leiganburge, I cannot tell: The Saxon Annals call it Lygeanburh (except Laud's Copy which calls it Lygeanbyrig;) and Florence of Worcester confirms the reading when he terms it Liganburh; the later writers call it Lienberig & Lienberi. The placing it at Loughburrow seems to draw Cuthwulf too far out of his road; for the next town he took was Ailesbury, and 'tis strange that in such a great distance he should not make an attempt upon some other. The manner of his progress seems to favour Leighton in Bedfordshire. See that County. That this Loughborrow was that royal Vill, in the Saxon tongue calld Lieganburge, which Marianus says, Cuthulfus took from the Britains in the year of Christ 572, the affinity of the names does in some sort evince. At present it is justly esteem'd the second town of all this County, next to Leicester, as well in respect of its bigness and buildings, as the pleasant woods about it. For near the side of this town, the forest of Charnwood, Charnwood Forest. or Charley, The forest of Charley is 20 miles in compass. Lel. Itin. p 14. See a larger description of it in Burton's Leicestersh. pag. 69. spreads it self a long way. Within the bounds whereof is Beaumanour Park, which the Lords Beaumonts enclos'd (as I have heard) with a stone-wallThese Beaumonts descended from a younger son of John Count of Brene in France, who for his high honour and true valour was preferr'd to marry the heir of the kingdom of Jerusalem, and with great pomp crown'd King of Jerusalem in the year of our Lord 1248. Hence it is that we see the Arms of Jerusalem so often quarter'd with those of Beaumont in sundry places of England. Sir H [...]n. Beaumont was the first that planted himself in England about the year 1308.. Which Lords were descended (as is commonly believ'd) of a French family: certain it is, that they come from John de Brenne King of Jerusalem, and that they first settled in England about the reign of Edw. 1. And by marriage with the daughter of Alexander Comyn, Earl of Boghan in Scotland (whose mother was one of the heirs of Roger de Quincy, Earl of Winchester) they got a very plentiful inheritance, and became a great family. Of which family,Viscounts Beaumont. in the reign of King Edward 3. Henry was for several years summoned to Parliament by the name of Earl of Boghan; and in the reign of Hen. 6. John was for a time Constable of England, and the first in EnglandThe first honorary Viscount in England. (that I know of) whom the King advanc'd to the honour of a Viscount. But when William the last Viscount dy'd without issue, his sister became the wife of the Lord Lovel; and the whole inheritance, which was large, was afterwards confiscated for High TreasonBy attainder of Loved it fell into the hands of King Henry 7..
In this north part nothing else occurs worth mentioning, unless it be a small Nunnery founded by Roifia de Verdon, and call'd Grace-dieu Now belonging to a younger house of the Beaumonts., that is, God's grace: and not far from thence, by the stream of Trent, Dunnington, Dunnington. an ancient Castle, built by the first Earls of Leicester, which afterwards came to John Lacy Earl of Lincoln, who procur'd it the privilege of a Market and Fairs from Edw. 1. But when, in the proscription of the Barons under Ed. 2. the possessions of the proscribed were sequester'd and alienated, the King gave this manour to Hugh le Despenser the youngerThe hereditaments of Thomas Earl of Lancaster, and Alice Lacy his wife, were seiz'd into the King's hands, and alienated in divers sorts; the King enforc'd her to release this manour to Hugh le Dispenser the younger. [h].
The east part of this County, which is hilly, and feedeth a vast number of sheep, was heretofore adorned with two principal places of great note; Vernometum, or Verometum, mention'd by Antoninus; and Burton-Lazers, of great account in former ages.
Vernometum, Vernometum [...] romet [...]. the name whereof is lost at this day, seems to me to have been situated in that place which is now call'd Burrow-hill, and Erdburrow; for between Verometum and Ratae, according to Antoninus, were twelve miles, and there is almost so much between this place and Leicester. The present name also of Burrows which signify'd among the Saxons a fortify'd place, comes from BurghAnd under it a town call'd Burrough, belonging to an old family of Gentlemen so sirnam'd.. But the most considerable proof is, that the ground is a steep hill on all sides but the south-east; on the top of which, remains the manifest appearance of a town destroy'd, a double trench, and the track where the walls went, which enclosed about 18 acres of land. At this day, it isRes [...] arable ground, and noted on this account chiefly, that the youth of the neighbouring parts meet here yearly for wrestling, and such like exercises [i]. One may conjecture from the name, that some great Temple of the Heathen Gods hath formerly stood in this place. For in the ancient Language of the Gauls, which was the same with that of the Britains, Vernometum Vernometum, what it sign [...]s in the o [...]d G [...]ulish. signifies a great and spacious Temple, as Venantius Fortunatus plainly tells us of Vernometum a town in France, in these verses in his first book of Poems:
As for Burton, call'd for distinction Lazers, Burton-lazers. from Lazers (so they nam'd the Elephantiaci or Lepers,) it was a rich Hospital, to the Master of which all the lesser Lazer-houses in England were in some sort subject, as he himself was to the Master of the Lazers of Jerusalem.It was founded about the time of K. Hen. 1. and (as Leland saith Tom. 1. p. 69.) by the Lord Mowbray, for a Master and 8 brethren, which did profess the Order of St. Austin. See Burton's Leicestersh. p. 63. It is said to have been built in the beginning of the Normans, by a general collection throughout England, but chiefly by the assistance of the Mowbrays. About which time, the LeprosieLeprosie in England. (by some call'd Elephantiasis Because the skins of Lepers are like to those of Elephants.) did run by infection over all England. And it is believ'd, that the disease did then first come into this Island out of Egypt, which more than once had spread it self into Europe; first in the days of Pompey the Great, afterwards under Heraclius, and at other times, as may be seen in HistoryWhether by celestial influence, or other hidden causes, I leave to the learned.; but never (so far as I read) did it before that time appear in England.
Besides these places of greater note and fame, we ought not to omit Melton Mowbray, Melton near Burton: it is a market town, so named from the Mowbrays heretofore Lords thereof, in which nothing is more worthy our observation, than the large and handsome Church [k]; nor Skeffington, more remote, to the south, which as it hath given name to a worshipful family, so it hath receiv'd reputation from the sameThe river that watereth this part of the shire, is by the inhabitants about it call'd the Wreken, along which, upon resemblance of the name, I have sought Vernometum, but in vain. This Wreken gathereth a strong stream by many lively brooks resorting unto it, whereof one passeth by Wimondham an ancient habitation of a younger branch of the house of the Lords Barkleis, well encreased by an heir of Dela-Laund, and so on by Melton Mowbray beforemention'd, by Kirkby Bellers, (where there was a [...]riory,) having that addition of the Bellers, a respective, rich, and noble family in their time, by Brokesby a seat now of the Villiers of an old Norman race, and descended from an heir of Bellers: which Brokesby imparted formerly the sirname to the Brokesbies of especial antiquity in these parts. Then the Wreken speedeth by Ratcliffe, high mounted upon a cliff, and within few miles conjoyneth it self to Soar, near unto Mont-Soar-hill beforementioned. Whatsoever of this Shire lyeth beyond the Wreken northward, is not so frequently inhabited, and part of it is call'd the Wold, as being hilly without wood; wherein Dalby, a seat of the old family of the Noels, of whom I shall speak elsewhere, and Waltham on the Wold, a mean market, are most notable. Through this part, as I have been informed, passeth the Fesse-way, made by the Romans from Lewing Bridge, by Segrave, which gave sirname to the honourable family often mentioned, and the Lodge on the Wold toward the Vale of Bever; but the Tract thereof as yet I know not..
LeicestershireEarls of Leicester. has been always famous for it's Earls, men of special note. And in regard that in the Saxon times the Earls were hereditary, I will first name them in their order, as I have been inform'd by Thomas Talbot (a person very well skill'd in matters of Antiquity) out of the King's Records.See a more distinct and critical account of the succession of these Earls, in Sir Peter Leicester's Antiquities of Cheshire, p. 99. In the time of Aethelbald, King of the Mercians, in the [Page 449-450] year of our Redemption 716, Leofric was Earl of Leicester; to whom succeeded, in a right line, Algarus 1. Algarus 2. Leofric 2. Leofstan, Leofric 3. who was bury'd at Coventry; Algarus 3. who had issue two sons, Eadwin Earl of March, and Morkar Earl of Northumberland; and one daughter, Lucy, first marry'd to Ivo Talboys of Anjou, and afterwards to Roger de Romara, by whom she had William de Romara Earl of Lincoln. The male line of this Saxon family being thus extinct, and the Saxon name in a manner trod under foot, Robert de Bellomonte [Beaumont] a Norman, Lord of Pont-Audomar, and Earl of Mellent, obtain'd, on the death of Simon Earl of Leicester, a Grant of this County, by the favour of King Hen. 1. in the year of Christ 1102. He was a man of great learning, [...] [...]nt. [...] Epi [...] [...] on [...] . eloquent, subtle, prudent, and witty; but having liv'd in the best quality, and bore the greatest honour, and at last seeing his wife entic'd from him by another Earl, in his old age he became troubled in mind, and fell into a deep melancholy. To him succeeded his son, sirnam'd Bossu Because he was crook-back'd; who after he had rebell'd against King Hen. 1. (the second he means) weary of his loose irregular life, became a Canon-Regular. for distinction, his grandson sirnam'd Blanchemaines Of his lily white hands; who sided with the young King against King Hen 2. and dy'd in the expedition of King Rich. 1. to the Holy Land., and his great-grandson Fitz-Parnel, all Roberts. Of which the last (who was call'd Fitz-Parnel from his mother Petronilla or Parnel, daughter and coheir of the last Hugh Grant-maisnill In whose right he was Seneschal or Steward of England, and dy'd issueless in the time of King John.) dy'd without issue. [...]. A few years ter, Simon de Montfort (descended from a bastard-son of Robert King of France) who had marry'd the sister of Robert Fitz-Parnell, [...] Par. enjoy'd this honour. But he and his being expell'd in the year 1200As wholly devoted to the French., Ranulph Earl of Chester obtain'd this dignity, not by hereditary right, but his Prince's favour. Yet afterwards Simon de Montfort, son of the aforesaid Simon, obtained the Earldom, Almaric his elder brother having relinquish'd his right before Hen. 3. So great and indulgent was the favour of K. Hen. 3. to this man, that he recall'd him from banishment out of France, loaded him with riches, honour'd him with the County of LeicesterGranted to him the Stewardship of England., and his own sister in marriage. But notwithstanding he was thus overwhelmed with kindnesses, he had no sense of gratitude, (such is the villany of some men,) but began to hate his benefactor; and wickedly occasion'd great troubles to that King, (who had so highly oblig'd him) by blowing up the storms of Civil wars with the rebellious Barons; in which himself, at last, was slain.See Eovesham in Worcestershire. His honours and possessions were conferr'd by King Hen. 3. on his own younger son Edmund, call'd Crouchback Earl of Lancaster. From thence this title lay as it were drown'd for a long time among those of the Lancastrian family; and Mawd, daughter of Henry Duke of Lancaster, being married toHolland in his translation says, Henry Duke of Bavaria, Earl of Hanault, &c. But 'tis a mistake, for he was neither Henry, nor Duke of Bavaria; his elder brother Stephen, being Duke of Bavaria after his father, and this William, the second son, Earl of Henault, Holland, &c. which was h [...]s mother's inheritance. And though he might be call'd Duke of Bavaria, as in Germany all younger sons (if never so many) take their fathers title; yet not being really such, Camden it seems thought it more proper to name him Guilielmus Bavarus Hannoniae, &c. Comes. William of Bavaria Earl of Hanault, Holland, Zeland, &c. added to his other titles this also of Leicester.In the great Register of the Dutchy of Lancaster. For in a Charter of the 35th year of Edw. 3. he is expresly nam'd William Earl of Henhaud and Leicester. And accordingly in the Inquisition, 36 Edw. 3. she by the name of Dutchess of Bavaria held the Castle, Manour, and Honour of Leicester. Who dying without issue, this honour thereupon came to John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster, who had marry'd Blanch the second sister of Mawd. From which time it was united to the House of Lancaster, until in our remembrance it was reviv'd in Robert Dudley, whom Qu. Elizabeth, in the sixth year of her reign, by the ceremony of girding with a sword, made Earl of LeicesterAnd extraordinarily favour'd.. Him the United Belgick Provinces (being deeply engag'd in wars) unanimously chose to manage their Government, and soon after cast off again and rejected; after which he finish'd this life, An. 1588.Leaving the fame only of his greatness behind him.
Within this County are 200 Parish-Churches.
ADDITIONS to LEICESTERSHIRE.
AS Mr. Camden, by the directions of the Fosse-way and Watlingstreet, has discover'd most places of note in Leicestershire; so had that County the good fortune to be mother of a most admirable Antiquary, Mr. Burton. He declares, that this genius always led him to the study of Antiquities; and a sense of duty and gratitude engag'd him to employ that talent upon his native Country, that it might not (as he expresses it) lye any longer obscur'd with darkness. Upon an accurate survey, he found out many pieces of Antiquity, which Mr. Camden's transitory view had not discover'd. Those, as they are scatter'd here and there, and accidentally fall in with his main drift of describing and drawing down possessions, I could not but think necessary to the completing of Camden's work. And, as studies of this kind never come to their full perfection, but are always capable of Improvements; a great many things very ancient and very remarkable (which had escap'd the diligence of both the former) have been since brought to light.
[a] To go along then with our Author as close as we can. He observes, that the inhabitants of Carleton [...]leton. cannot pronounce the Letter [r] without great difficulty; and a passage which Dr. Fuller in his Worthies of England has left us, is very remarkable to this purpose. He tells us of a Fellow of Trinity College in Cambridge (a native of this Carleton, as he thinks) who made a speech of a competent length, with select words as to the matter, without any [r] therein. Which if true; he (no doubt) contriv'd it on purpose to prevent a deformity of pronunciation upon a frequent occurrence of that letter. But the present inhabitants, as they retain no remains of it in their speech, so neither in their memory, the most ancient among them knowing nothing of it.
[b] The next place he touches upon is Watlingstreet, Watlingstreet. which he says he trac'd into Wales. This brings to my mind an old description of it in an ancient Eulogy of Histories, in Leland's second Manuscript Tome, p. 255. Secunda via principalis dicitur Watlingstreate, &c. i.e. The second principal way is call'd Watlingstreate, going from South-east to North-west. For it begins at Dover, runs through the midst of Kent by London; thence by St. Albans, Dunstable, Stratford, Toucester, Littleborne, S. Gilbert's hill near Shrowesbury; thence by Stratton, and so through the middle of Wales to Cardigan.
From hence let us go forward to Claybroke, where Mr. Camden places the Bennones, and Mr. Burton confirms his opinion. The former observes that ancient Coyns were here very commonly digg'd up, and the latter likewise adds Roman bricks; and has given us the inscriptions of two Coyns. The first is of the Emperour Caius Caligula in copper, stamp'd, as Occo sets down, A. D. 42. upon the one side, the Emperour with a Lawrel wreath, with this Inscription, C. Caesar. Divi. Auli. Pron. Aug. P. M. T. R. P 1111. PP. Upon the reverse, Vesta S. C. Vesta [Page 447-448] [...] [Page 449-450] [...] [Page 451-452] sitting in a chair, holding in her right hand a dish. The other coin is of Constantine the great, stamp'd A.D. 306. upon the one side, the face with a Lawrel wreath circumscrib'd, viz. Constantinus P. F. Aug. Upon the reverse, Soli invicto Comiti, T. F. P. T. R. The figure of the Sun. Sir William Dugdale farther observes, that the earth (so far as this extended) is of a darker colour than the rest thereabouts; and of such rankness, that much of it hath been carry'd by the husbandmen to further distances, like dung, to make the ground more fertile.
[d] Next let us accompany him to Bosworth, Bosworth. memorable for the defeat of Richard the third. But that battel was fought at three miles distance from the town, and the field took its name from it, as being the most remarkable place adjacent. The exact place of the battel is frequently more and more discover'd by pieces of armour, weapons, and other warlike accoutrements digg'd up; and especially a great many arrow-heads were found there, which are of a long, large, and big proportion, far greater than any now in use. There is likewise a little Mount cast up, where the common report is, that before the engagement, Henry Earl of Richmond, made his Speech for encouragement of the Army.
[e] Next to this field, Leicester Leicester. presents it self; where Mr. Camden places the Ratae, upon these two reasons, that it stands by the Foss-way, and that it best answers the distances assign'd by Antoninus. How lucky he was in this conjecture, is evident from several pieces of Roman Antiquities discover'd here since his time. As 1. An ancient temple, dedicated (as is suppos'd) to Janus, which had a Flamen or High-priest resident here: an argument whereof is the great store of bones of beasts (which were sacrific'd) that have been digg'd up. On this account that place in the town is still call'd Holy-bones; where there are some ruins of ancient brick-work remaining. 'Tis said that the Church of S. Nicholas was built out of the ruins of it; and indeed the conjecture receives some strength from hence, that the present building has many rows and pieces of bricks about it. 2. Another considerable piece of Antiquity was discover'd in this town by an inhabitant, who several years ago was digging for a Cellar; and the work-men were very careful to have it preserv'd. 'Tis the fable of Actaeon curiously describ'd and wrought with little stones, some of a white, the other of a chesnut colour. It is a very rare piece, and (as is conjectur'd by most) of Roman Antiquity. The Cellar is near the Elm-trees, not far from All-Saint's Church, and few travellers of curiosity pass by that way without a sight of it. 3. There have been found here Medals and Coins in great abundance, both of silver and copper; of Vespasian, Domitian, Trajan, Antonine, and others. 4. Near the town, somewhat deep in the ground, was found a piece of work of stone, arch'd over; the stones very small, about an inch long, and half an inch broad and thick, finely joynted together with a thin mortar. It was in length about five or six yards, in breadth about four; the roof cover'd with a square kind of quarry, with small earthen pipes therein. This (as Mr. Burton imagines) was a Stouphe or Hot-house to bathe in; for Vitruvius tells us that the Romans growing by degrees wealthy and wanton, made use of these hot bathes to purge and clarifie themselves.
Next to the Antiquities of the place, I cannot but take notice of a memorable Epitaph in the Church of S. Martin's there, over Mr. John Heyrick, who dy'd the 2d of April, 1589. aged 76. He liv'd in one house with Mary his wife full 52 years; and in all that time never bury'd man, woman, nor child, tho' sometimes twenty in family. The said Mary liv'd to 97 years, and saw before her death (Dec. 8. 1611.) of her children, and childrens children, and their children, to the number of 143.
In this place, there is a Hospital built by Henry Earl of Lancaster, 5 Edw. 3. with a Chapel wherein Divine Service is daily perform'd. It still in some measure subsists by certain stipends paid out of the Dutchy of Lancaster, together with divers new charities. But that which is more considerable is an Hospital built by Sir William Wigston, a Merchant of the Staple in this town, in the reign of King Henry 6. which is in a very prosperous condition.
[f] North of Leicester, upon the Soar, lyes Montsorehill, Mont [...] hill. which Mr. Camden says is famous for nothing but a market. It is kept on Mondays; but beside that privilege, they have likewise a yearly Fair upon the 29th of June, on S. Peter's day, granted by King Edward the first in the twentieth year of his reign, to Nicholas de Segrave the elder.
Not far from whence is Bradgate, Bradgate. the seat of the right honourable Thomas Grey, Earl of Stamford, and Baron Grey of Groby.
In the Hundred of Sparkenhoe South-west of Leicester, lyes Lindley; Lindley. of which Lordship 'tis very remarkable (says Burton) that therein was never seen adder, snake, or lizzard; tho' in all the bordering places they have been commonly found. Not far from hence is Higham, in old Deeds written Hecham; and is memorable among other things, for a curious piece of AntiquityB [...] Leice [...] p. 131., discover'd there in the year 1607.
An inhabitant of this town, in taking up a great square-stone, which lay in Watling-street-way, upon the crossing of another way that leads to Coventry; met with about 250 pieces of silver of the coin of King Henry 3. each of the weight of three pence. On the one side thereof was the King's head, with a hand holding a Scepter, circumscribed Henricus Rex; on the other side, a Cross-molin between Roundels, with this circumscription Fulke on Lued. There was also a gold ring with a fair Ruby in it, another with an Agat; and a third of Silver, wherein was a flat ruddy stone engraven with Arabick Characters, thus:
By Mahomet magnifie him,
Turn from him each hand that may hurt him.
He found likewise certain great Catch-hooks and Keepers of Silver, with certain Links of an old fashion'd great Gold-chain. All these lay by the side of the stone, deep in the ground. Under the same stone, there lay two or three pieces of Silver, Coins of Trajan the Emperour.
[...] This last passage would perswade us, that the stone it self was a basis to some Altar dedicated to Trajan; according to that custom of the Romans, of laying some of the present Emperour's coins under the foundation of their buildings, monuments, &c. The same custom they had in their Burials, as appears by the Coins found in several Urns and Barrows throughout England. And this perhaps may account for the stone and coins. The money, rings, and other things found by the side of the stone, Mr. Burton conjectures to have been the treasure of some Jew. Ne [...] [...] 9. &c [...] 3 [...]. For that people flourish'd mightily in England a little after the Conquest, being encourag'd particularly by William Rufus; upon which they became very rich and flourishing. But their wealth in the succeeding reigns did them an injury; being miserably tortur'd by King John to make them discover and deliver up their hidden treasures. In the 11th of Edw. 1. their Synagogues were all pluckt down; and in the 16th of that King, they were all banisht the Realm, to the number of 15000. But then their riches was all to be left behind; and they were not allow'd to take any money or goods away with them, save only for the necessary charges of transportation. In which difficulty, what can we imagine more probable than that they bury'd and hid their treasures under-ground, in hopes that the succeeding King's reigns might be more favourable to them? The ring with Arabick characters seems to confirm the same thing; and might be brought over [Page 453-454] out of Palestine or some of those Eastern Counties by some of the Jews, who (as Buxtorfius tells us) had a natural love to their own Country, and us'd sometimes to visit it. And the learned Antiquary before-mention'd, is of opinion, that it was laid here to challenge the property, whenever there should be occasion to enter a claim, because without some such thing they would belong to the King, or to a common person by prescription. Thus, [...]'s [...]rty of [...]im, [...]. when Ludgate was taken down in the year 1586. to be re-built, they found in the wall a stone engraven with Hebrew Letters to this effect, This is the dwelling of Rabbi Moses, the son of the honourable Rabbi Isaac.
[g] Let us now turn our course towards the North, to Loughborow, [...]ughbo [...]. the ancient inheritance of the noble family of the Despensers, who obtain'd the privilege of a weekly market, with certain fairs to be kept here. But upon the Death and Attainder of Hugh le Despenser, Earl of Winchester, the 19th of Edw. 2. it was forfeited to the Crown, and granted by King Edward the third to Henry Lord Beaumont in General-tail; in whose posterity it continu'd, till William Viscount Beaumont, being in the battel of Towtonfield, on the side of King Henry 6. was attainted of High-treason 1 Edw. 4. and the manour granted to William Lord Hastings. But the Viscount Beaumont was restor'd to it by King Henry the seventh, and upon the Attainder of Viscount Lovel his successor, it return'd to the Crown. The 19th of Henry 8. the Marquess of Dorset obtain'd a grant of it; but upon the Attainder of his son, Henry Duke of Suffolk, 2 Mar. it was forfeited to the Queen, who granted it to Edward Lord Hastings of Loughborough, from whom it directly descended to Theophilus now Earl of Huntingdon.
Mr. Camden observes that it gave the Title of Baron to Sir Edward Hastings. He was third son to George, Earl of Huntingdon, and did great Services to Queen Mary by the forces he had rais'd on the death of King Edward the sixth, to oppose the Lady Jane Grey. He was first made Master of her Horse, of her Privy Council, and Knight of the most noble Order of the Garter. Having obtain'd the Grant of this Manour, amongst others, he was created Lord Hastings of this place, and made Lord Chamberlain to that Queen's houshold. Since Mr. Camden's time, it hath given the same title to Henry Hastings Esquire, second son to Henry Earl of Huntingdon, who was a person of great valour and military conduct; and the first that appear'd in arms on the behalf of King Charles the first, conducted the Queen from Burlington to Oxford, planted divers garisons with his own forces, and particularly that of Ashby de la Zouch in this County; and as a reward for his extraordinary service, was 19 Car. 1. advanc'd to the dignity of a Peer of this Realm, by the title of Baron of Loughborough. He departed this life unmarried at London, 18 Jan. 1666. in the 55th year of his age, and was bury'd in the Collegiate Chapel Royal of St. George in Windsor-castle.
[h] Further towards the North, is Dunnington, [...]nning [...]n. which Mr. Camden observes was bestow'd upon Hugh le Despenser the younger by Edward the second; whose father, Hugh le Despenser the elder, King Edward the second created Earl of Winchester. But 1 Edw. 3. Henry Earl of Lancaster obtain'd a Reversal of his brother's Attainder, together with a restitution of his estate; of which this castle and manour was a part. Afterwards descending to King Henry the fourth, it became parcel of the Dutchy of Lancaster, and so continu'd till the reign of Queen Elizabeth; when Robert Earl of Essex having obtain'd a grant of the Park, did in the latter end of that Queen's reign sell the same to George Earl of Huntingdon, which now is the inheritance of Theophilus the present Earl of Huntingdon. From hence we pass to Ashby de la Zouch, Ashby de la Zouch. which manour Mr. Camden tells us came to the Hastings; and that happen'd upon the Attainder of James Butler Earl of Ormond and Wiltshire, after King Edward the fourth recover'd the Crown. Sir William Hastings had a grant of it in consideration of his signal Services against King Henry the sixth, and his party; upon which account, he was also made a Baron, Chamberlain of the King's houshold, Captain of Calice, and Knight of the Garter. This I take to be the same William, that Mr. Camden says procur'd the privilege of a Fair there from Henry the sixth, (for he cannot mean the market, because the town enjoy'd that privilege long before.) It must be a mistake for Edward the fourth, because Sir William always oppos'd the Lancastrian party in favour of the House of York, and upon that turn of government procur'd this grant. Besides, it expresly appears that 11 Edw. 4. he had a Charter for two Fairs to be held there yearly; with licence to make, amongst other of his houses, this of Ashby, a castle; which was demolisht in 1648. At which time many other noble seats underwent the same fate by an ordinance of the Parliament. This manour in a lineal descent from the said William Lord Hastings, is the inheritance of Theophilus now Earl of Huntingdon.
[i] From the North, we must pass along with Mr. Camden to the East-part of this County; where Burrow Burrow. offers it self, being in his opinion the Vernometum Vernometum. of Antoninus. Mr. Burton speaking of the place, barely recites Camden's words, without delivering his own judgment: but a more distinct account of the place, which I had sent me by an ingenious Gentleman, very much strengthens the conjecture. The double ditch and track of the walls are pretty plain. The entrance into it both now and anciently was from the East and by South. There are two banks cast up about ten yards in length, and five or six in distance one from the other; where the Portal appears to have been, and where the entrance is partly level from the field adjoyning, there being (as Mr. Camden well describes it) a steep and upright ascent on all other sides. The interpretation of a great temple seems to answer the state of the place exceeding well; for there do not so much appear the marks of a town demolish'd (which Mr. Camden intimates;) as some particular great building; and rather a Temple than any other, to which the several adjacent colonies might conveniently resort. The hill contains twelve Acres in modern computation, and there is in the middle of it a rising ground. It is distant near half a mile from the town of Burrow, and there is a very pleasant prospect from it, especially to the West.
[k] Besides the fair Church at Melton-Mowbray mention'd by our Author, it had a Chantry for about fourteen Priests, situate near the South-east corner of the Church; which being repair'd is now the Parsonage-house belonging to the Impropriation of the said Church. The market, which is upon Tuesdays, is the most considerable for cattel of any in this part of England.
Continuation of the EARLS.
Some years after the death of Robert Dudley (mention'd by our Author) King James the first created Robert Sidney, Viscount Lisle, (descended from a sister of the last Robert) Earl of Leicester. To him succeeded Robert his son, who had by the Lady Dorothy, daughter to Henry Earl of Northumberland, Philip, his heir and successor in this dignity.
RƲTLANDSHIRE.
RUTLAND, in the Saxon Roteland, is in a manner encompass'd with Leicestershire; unless on the south, where it lyes on the river Welland, and on the east, where it borders on the County of Lincoln. It is no way inferiour to Leicestershire, either in richness of soil, or pleasantness of situation; but only for its quantity, in which respect it is much inferiour, being the least County of all England. Its form is almost circular, and contains within its compass so much ground as a good horseman may ride about in one day. Hence it is, that the people of this Country have a story of I know not what King, who gave to one Rut as much land as he could ride about in a day; and he riding round this County within the time specify'd, had it thereupon given him, and call'd it after his own name. But let such fables vanish: we will not injure truth with idle fancies. In regard therefore, that the earth of this County is in many places so ruddy that it colours the fleeces of the sheep; and considering that the Saxons call'd a red colour Roet and Rud, why may we not suspect that Rutland Rutland, why so call'd. was so named, quasi Redland? as the Poet says, Conveniunt rebus nomina saepe suis. i.e. There's commonly an agreement between names and things.
Several places among all nations have been named from redness; Rutlan-Castle in Wales built on a red shore, the Red Promontory, the Red Sea between Egypt and Arabia, Erytheia in Ionia; and several other instances evince the same thing. There is therefore no occasion to listen to fables for this Etymology [a].
This little parcel of land has made a County but of late days; for in the time of Edward the Confessor, it was esteemed a part of Northamptonshire. And our Historians who writ before the last 300 years, mention not this in the number of the Counties [b].
Wash, or Gwash, a rivulet rising in the west, runs to the east, almost through the very middle of this County, and divides it into two parts. In the hithermost, or south division, stands Uppingham Uppingham. on a rising ground, from whence it had its name [c]. It is not memorable for any thing besides a well-frequented market, and a handsom school, which (as also another at Okeham) R. Johnson a Divine, with a laudable design for the good education of youth, lately erected out of certain contributions.
Below this stands Dry-Stoke, which I cannot omit, in regard it hath been an old seat of that famous and ancient family of the Digbies: Digby. which(I grieve to utter it, but all men know it.) Everard Digby hath now branded with an eternal mark of infamy by wickedly conspiring with those wretched Incendiaries, who design'd with one single charge of Gun-powder to have destroy'd both their Prince and Country [d]More eastward upon the river Welland I saw nothing remarkable, unless it be Berohdon, now Barodon, which Thomas Beauchamp Earl of Warwick held with South-Luffenham and other hamlets, by service to the King's Chamberlain in the Exchequer. Fi [...]. 14 Ed. 3.. 1605
In the furthermost division, beyond the river, encompass'd with hills, lyes the pleasant and fruitful valley, now call'd The Vale of Catmose, perhaps from Coet maes, which in the British tongue signifies a woody field or ground. In the midst of which vale, stands Okeham, Okeham. that seems for the same reason to have taken it's name from Oaks. Near the ChurchWhich is large and fair. are still remaining the ruinous walls of an old castle, built, as is reported byHe was a younger son to William de Ferrers Earl of Derby, and held Okeham by the service of one Knights fee and a half, 12 Hen. 2. Wright pag. 95. Walkelin de Ferrariis in the beginning of the Normans. And that it was the habitation of the Ferrars, besides the authority of tradition, is sufficiently evident from the Horse-shoes, (which that family gave for their Arms) nail'd on the [...]tes, and in the hall. Afterwards this town belong'd to the Lords of Tatteshall. But when King Richard 2. advanced Edward, son of the Duke of York, to the title of Earl of Rutland, he also gave him this Castle. In the memory of the last age it came to Thomas Cromwell, Barons Cromwell and, as I have read,He was Baron Cromwell of Wimbledon, but not of Okeham. See the printed Stat. of 31 Hen. 8. concerning Gavelkind. gave him the title of Baron. Henry 8. advanc'd this person to the highest dignity; but soon after, when by his many projects he had expos'd himself to the storms of envy, on a sudden he depriv'd him both of life and honours [e].
Eastward from hence is Burley, Burly. most pleasantly situated, overlooking the Vale. This is now the magnificent seat of the Harringtons, who by marriage with the daughter and heir of Colepeper, came to so large an inheritance in those parts, that ever since they have been a flourishing family: in like manner as the Colepepers were before them, to whom, by N. Green, the great estate of the Bruses did in part descend. Which Bruses being of the chief Nobility of England, match'd into the Royal family of Scotland; from whom, by Robert the eldest brother, the Royal Line of the Scots, and by Bernard a younger brother, the Cottons of Connington in the County of Huntingdon, (of whom I have already spoken) and these Harringtons, are descended. Upon which account, K. James dignify'd Sir John Harrington Barons Harringt [...] Branch'd from the stem of the ancient Lords Harington., a most famous and worthy Knight, with the title of Baron Harrington of Exton A town adjacent, where be hath also another fair house. [f].
On the east-side of this County, near the river Guash, lye Brigcasterton (of which more hereafter,) and Rihall, where, when superstition had so bewitched our Ancestors that it had almost remov'd the true God by the multiplicity of Gods, one Tibba, a Saint of the lesser rank, was worship'd by Falconers The Falco [...] ers Saint. as a second Diana, and reputed a kind of Patroness of Falconry [g]. Next adjoyning is Essenden, whose Lord, Robert Cecil, (the excellent son of an excellent father who was the support of our kingdom,) was lately created by King James, Baron Cecil of Essenden. Baron C [...] of Essend [...]n
This little County, Edward the Confessor devised by his last Will to his wife Eadith, conditionally, that after her death it should go to St. Peter's at Westminster. These are the words of the Testament: I will, that after the decease of Queen Eadgith my wife, Roteland, with all things thereunto belonging, be given to my Monastery of the most blessed Peter, and that it be surrender'd without delay to the Abbot and Monks there serving God, for ever. But this Testament of his was vacated by William the Norman, who keeping a great part of this estate to himself, divided the rest to Judith the Countess (whose daughter marry'd David K. of Scots) to Robert Mallet, Oger, Gislebert of Gaunt, Earl Hugh, Alberic the Clerk, and others. But to Westminster he left indeed at first the tithes, but afterwards only the Church of Okeham with the Appendices [or Chapelries] thereunto belonging.
This County cannot boast of many Earls. The first Earl of Rutland Earls of Rutland. was [h] Edward, eldest son of Edmund of Langley, Duke of York; who, by the special favour of K. Rich. 2. was created during the life of his father, and after that by the same King declar'd Duke of Albemarle. This is he who wickedly conspired to remove K. Hen. 4. and then with like levity discover'd the Conspiracy. But after his father's death, being Duke of York, he was slain valiantly fighting amidst the thickest of the enemies at the battel of Agincourt. A good while after, succeeded in this title Edward, the young son of Richard Duke of York, who was slain with his father at the battel of Wakefield, during the dismal times of those Civil wars. Many years after that, Henr. 8. advanc'd Thomas Mannours to the Earldom of Rutland, who in right of [Page]
Oppida Mercatoria per Ichnographiam, Villae Parochiales per Pagi minores per Sedes, vel loca devastata Olim Villae, per Denotantur
COMITATUS ROTELANDIAE Tabula Nova & Aucta
[Page] [Page 457-458] Eleanor his grandmother was then possest of the large and noble inheritance of the Barons Roos, lying in the neighbouring parts. To him succeeded Henry; and after him Edward his son, to whom (not to say more) that of the Poet is most truly and properly applicable:
But he dying young, left his honours to John his brother; and he also being soon after cut off by death, Roger his son became his successor, who discovers all the marks of the nobility of his Ancestors.
This little County is adorn'd with 48 Parish-Churches.
ADDITIONS to RƲTLANDSHIRE.
[a] WHat the original of this County's name was, we are in a great measure in the dark; for as Mr. Camden's Roet and Rud will not do, because we are assur'd there is nothing in the County to justifie such a conjecture; so Mr. Wright's Rotelandia quasi Rotunda-landia, will hardly pass, till we can give some probable account how it came by a Latin name, more than other parts of England. The Conquest could not bring it in, because we find it call'd so in the time of Edward the Confessor; and beside, so much of it as belong'd to Nottinghamshire, (to which the name Roteland was given before the rest came to be part of it) is far from making a circular figure, how round soever it may be when all together.
[b] When the County of Rutland came to be distinct, or upon what occasion; is altogether unknown. Mr. Camden says, that Authors 300 years old make no mention of it as of a separate Shire; but that it was distinct before, is certain; for in the 5th of King John, Isabel his new Queen had, at her Coronation, assigned her in Parliament for her dowry among other lands,Wright, [...]g. 3. Com. Roteland. & villam de Rokingham in Com. Northampt. &c. And in 12 Johan. the Custos did account for the profits of this County in the Exchequer. Which Custos can relate to nothing but the Sheriff of the County, who was and still is as it were a Guard; and his office is imply'd in his name Scyre-gerefa, from which Sheriff is contracted, signifying no more than a Keeper of the County.
[...]i [...]g. [...].[c] In the south part of this County lies Uppingham, the site whereof will hardly bear Mr. Camden's derivation from an ascent,Wright, [...] 130. the ground upon which it stands being something above a level, but hardly amounting to a hill. Johnson who is said to have built the school, was call'd Robert; and beside that, built two Hospitals, one at Okeham, and another here at Uppingham.
Near this place is Lydington, where, about the year 1602. Thomas Lord Burgley settl'd an Hospital or Alms-house, for a Warden, 12 poor men, and 2 poor women; which he call'd Jesus-Hospital. And in the same Hundred at Morcot was another, founded in the time of King James 1. by one Jilson, for six poor people.
[d] Next is Dry-stoke; [...]y-Stoke. where, as the family of the Digbies has been render'd infamous by Sir Everard, so by his eldest son Sir Kenelm Digby, a person of noted worth and learning, hath it receiv'd no small honour.
[e] More towards the north is Okeham, [...]eham. where is an ancient custom continu'd to this day, that every Baron of the Realm, the first time he comes through this town, shall give a horse-shoe to nail upon the castle-gate; which if he refuses, the Bayliff of that manour has power to stop his coach, and take one off his horse's foot. But commonly they give 5, 10, or 20 shillings, more or less as they please; and in proportion to the gift, the shoe is made larger or smaller, with the name and titles of the Donor cut upon it; and so 'tis nail'd upon the gate.
[...].In the year 1619. was born here a Dwarf scarce 18 inches in height, when a year old. His father was a lusty stout man, and so were all his other children. Being taken into the family of the late Duke of Buckingham, when the Court came progress that way, he was serv'd up to the table in a cold pye. Between the 7th and the 30th year of his age, he grew not much; but a little after 30 he shot up to that heighth which he remain'd at in his old age, i.e. about 3 foot and 9 inches. See Wright's Rutlandshire, pag. 105.
In the 22d of K. Rich. 2. William Dalby of Exton, a Merchant of the Staple, founded an Hospital at Okeham for the maintenance of 2 Chaplains and 12 poor men, endowing the same with a revenue of 40 l. per an. It is still in being, but extremely decay'd, impoverish'd, and different from it's first Institution. About the ruins of the old Castle wall there grows Dane-weed, which comes up every spring, and dyes in the fall.
[f] North from hence lyes Market-Overton, Market-Overton. where Mr. Camden, in his Edition of 1590. places the Margidunum Margidunum. of Antoninus, and calls it Marged-overton, but without laying down any reason why he alters the orthography from the common pronunciation. In the edition of 1607. he has remov'd it to about Belvoir-castle, invited (I suppose) principally by the height of the hill, which answers the termination dunum. But there was no occasion for that,Appendix ad Camdeni [...]pist. p. 375. since Market-Overton stands upon the highest hill within view thereabout, except Burley and Cole-Overton. And as for the Marga; in the fields about it there is great store of lime-stone, whereof good lime has been made; which agrees very well with the British Marga, us'd by them (as he says) to improve their grounds. Here are likewise to be found such plenty of Roman Coyns, as but few places in those parts afford. Within these few years, there have been gather'd between 200 and 300 on a little furlong about half a mile from this town. As for the distances with respect to other Stations thereabouts, they are very uniform. From Gausennae, i.e. Brigge-casterton, 6 miles; from Verometum, i.e. Burgh-hill, 7 miles; and from Ad Pontem, i.e. Great-Paunton, 7 miles. So that they who seek it in any other place, may probably lose their labour.
The objection against it is, that (Market) the affinity whereof with the Latin name seems to have given the first hint to this conjecture, must not be thought any remain of the Roman name, but grounded upon the Market there every week. And no doubt, this has been the constant opinion of the inhabitants, now time out of mind. But ifBaronage vol. 2. p. 58. Dugdale transcrib'd the name from the Charter, it was call'd Market-Overton, before Bartholomew Lord Badlismere, in the reign of Edw. 2. obtain'd a grant for a weekly market here; for in reciting that passage, he names the town so. Beside, I cannot conceive to what end the word Market should be added: not but it is common enough to distinguish towns from some other of the same name not far off; but here there does not appear to be any such. So that upon the whole, 'tis probable enough, that posterity finding something prefix'd, that sounded like Market, might imagine that the market there gave occasion to it, and so frame the name to their own fancies.
Not far from Market-Overton is Cotsmore, memorable for the charity of Anne Lady Harrington, widow of John Lord Harrington of Exton, who purchas'd a Rent-charge of a hundred pound per Ann. to be issuing out of this manour of Cotsmore, and left it to [Page 459-460] be divided quarterly for ever among the poor of seven Parishes in this County.
[g] On the East-side of the County lyes Rihal, where our Author says S. Tibba was worship'd like another Diana; tho' Mr.Hist. of Rutlandsh. p. 111. Wright tells us he knows neither the reason of that character, nor what relation she had to that place. For the first, upon what our Author grounds his description, I know not; but as to the second, we have the authority of theChron. Sax. edit. Oxon. sub An. 964. Saxon Annals, which expresly tell us she was buried at Rihala, now the same Ryal. And that those times had likewise a great veneration for her, may be gather'd from the circumstances there deliver'd. For after Aelfsi came to be Abbot of Peterburrough, he took up the body of S. Kyneburge and S. Cyneswithe, and at the same time the body of S. Tibba; and carry'd them all three to his Monastery, where in one day heOffrede in the Saxon. dedicated them to S. Peter, the Saint of the place.
[h] As to the Earls; Mr. Camden makes Edward, son of Edmund de Langley, (under Richard 2.) the first; yet amongst the witnesses subscribing to the Charter granted by King Henry 1. to Herbert Bishop of Norwich, and the Monks of the Church of the Holy Trinity there, A. D. 1101.M [...]. Ang [...]. [...]d. p. 41 [...]. we find this name and title, Ego Robertus Comes Rutland. And theN [...] [...] Polych. p. 224. Learned Selden tells us, he has seen original Letters of Protection (a perfect and incommunicable power royal,) by that great Prince Richard Earl of Poitiers and Cornwal, sent to the Sheriff of Rutland, in behalf of a Nunnery about Stamford. Now King Henry the third granted him the Castle of Okeham and custody of this County; and Selden brings this as one instance of that vast power the Earls formerly enjoy'd.
Continuation of the EARLS.
Roger dying without issue, was succeeded by Francis his brother and heir; who having no issue male, Sir George Maners, his brother and next heir-male, came to this dignity. But he likewise dying without issue, this honour descended to John M [...]ners Esquire, son and heir of Sir George Maners, son of J [...]n Maners, second son of Thomas first Earl of R [...]land of this family. John departed this life, Sept. 29. 1679. and left this title to his only son John, the present Earl of Rutland.
LINCOLNSHIRE.
THIS County of Lincoln borders upon Rutland on the East, call'd by the Saxons Lincollscyre, by the Normans upon their first entrance into this Island (by a transposal of Letters) Nicolshire, but commonly now Lincolnshire. 'Tis a very large County, being almost sixty miles long, and in some places above thirty broad, fitted by the mildness of the air for the produce of corn and feeding of cattel, adorn'd with many towns and water'd with many rivers. On the East-side it shoots out aSupercilium. foreland of great compass, which bounds upon the German Ocean; on the North it reaches as far as the Abus or Humber, an arm of the sea; on the West it joyns to Nottinghamshire, and on the South 'tis parted from Northamptonshire by the river Welland. The whole County is divided into three parts, Holland, Kesteven, and Lindsey as we in our language call it [a].
Holland. Holland, which Ingulphus calls Hoiland, is next the sea, and like Holland in Germany, is so very moist in many places, that the print of one's foot remains in it, and the surface it self shakes if stampt on, from whence it may seem to have took its name; unless with Ingulphus one would have Hoiland to be the right name, and that it deriv'd it from the Hay made here1 [b].
All this part lyes upon that Estuary which Ptolemy calls Metaris Metaris. instead of Maltraith, at this day The Washes. The Washes This Estuary is very large and famous, cover'd with water at every flowing of the tide, and passable again at every ebb, tho' not without danger; as King John to his own loss experienc'd: for whilst in the Barons war, he attempted to pass here, he lost all his carriages and furniture near Foss-dyke and Welstream, by a sudden inundation, as Matthew of Westminster tells us. This part of the County, call'd Silt, which the Inhabitants from the great heaps of sand, believe to have been forsaken by the sea, is so assaulted on one side with the ocean, and on the other with a mighty flood of waters, which drain from the higher Country, that all the winter they constantly watch it, and can hardly with their cast-up banks defend themselves against those dangerous enemies. The ground produceth very little corn, but much grass, and is well stor'd with fish and sea-fowl; but the soil is so soft that they work their horses unshod, and you shall not find so much as a little stone, which has not been brought from some other place: yet however the Churches here are beautiful, and well built of square stone. 'Tis very evident from the banks cast up against the waters, now distant two miles from the shore, and from the hills near Sutterton which they call Salt-hills, Salt-hill [...]. that the sea came further up. Here is great want of fresh water in all places, having no other supply but the rain water in pits; which if deep, soon turn the water brackish; if shallow, grow presently dry. Here are many quick-sands;Q [...]ick-sands. and the Shepherds and their flocks are often with great danger made sensible, that they have a wonderful force in sucking in any thing that comes upon them, and retaining it fast.
This Hoiland is divided into two parts, the lower and the upper. The lower has in it filthy bogs and unpassable marshes which the inhabitants themselves cannot go over with the help of their stilts. And because its situation is very low, it is defended on one side from the Ocean, on the other from the waters that overflow the upper part of the Isle of Ely, by huge banks thrown up against them.By othe [...] call'd Southydike. Southybank is the most noted, which the Inhabitants take great care of, being continually fearful lest a breach should be made in it by that great flood of waters that fall from the south parts, when the rivers swell and lay all afloat by their inundation. To drain away these waters, the neighbouring inhabitants began in the year 1599. to dig a new chanel at Clows-cross [c]. Near this bank I saw Crowland, Crowlan [...] which is also call'd Croyland, a very noted town among the Fenn-people, which (as Ingulphus Abbot of this place interprets it) signifies raw and muddy land: a place (as they write) haunted in times past with I know not what frightful apparitions, before that Guthlacus a very pious man led an Hermit's life there. In whose memory, and in honour of God, Ethelbald King of the Mercians founded a Monastery at great charge in the year 716. very famous for religion and riches; concerning which if the Reader pleases he may divert himself with those verses of Felix, a pretty ancient Monk, in the life of Guthlacus:
[...]l's of [...]wland.If out of the same Author I should describe the Devils of Crowland with their blubber lips, fiery mouths, scaly faces, beetle heads, sharp teeth, long chins, hoarse throats, black skins, hump shoulders, big bellys, burning loins, bandy legs, tail'd buttocks, &c. that formerly haunted these places, and very much troubled Guthlacus and the Monks, you'd laugh perhaps at the story, and much more at my madness in telling it. Since the situation and nature of the place is strange and different from all others in England, and the Monastery particularly famous in former times, I shall give you the description of it somewhat at large. This Crowland lyes in the fenns, so enclos'd and encompass'd with deep bogs and pools, that there is no access to it but on the north and east-side, and these by narrow Causeys. This Monastery, and Venice (if we may compare things of such different size and proportion) have the same situation. It consists of three streets, separated each from the other by water-courses, planted with willows, built on piles driven into the bottom of the pool; having communication by a triangular bridge curiously built, under which the inhabitants say there was a very deep pit, dig'd to receive the concourse of waters there. Beyond the bridge (where, as one words it, [...]n [...]ilum [...]atur [...]. the bog is become firm ground,) stood formerly that famous Monastery, of very small compass, about which, unless on that side where the town stands, the ground is so rotten and boggy, that a pole may be thrust down thirty foot deep; there is nothing round about it but reeds, and next the Church a grove of alders. However, the town is pretty well inhabited, but the cattel are kept far from it, so that when the owners milk them, they go in boats (that will carry but two) call'd by them Skerrys. Their greatest gain is from the fish andAnatum [...]. wild Ducks that they catch; which are so many, that in August they can drive at once into a single net 3000 ducks: they call these pools their corn fields: for there is no corn grows within five miles. For this liberty of taking of fish and fowl they formerly paid yearly to the Abbot, as they do now to the King, three hundred pounds sterling.
'Tis not necessary to write the private history of this Monastery, for 'tis extant in Ingulphus, now printed; yet I am willing to make a short report of that which Peter Blesensis, [...]e- [...]an [...]ius. Vice-chancellour to King Henry the second, among other things related concerning the first building of this Monastery in the year 1112. to the end that by one single precedent we may learn by what means and supplys so many rich and stately Religious-houses were built in all parts of this kingdom. Joffrid the Abbot obtain'd of the Arch-bishops and Bishops of England an Indulgence to every one that helped forward so religious a work, for the third part of the penance enjoyn'd for the sins he had committed. With this he sent out Monks every where to pick up money, and having enough, he appointed St. Perpetua's and Felicity's day to be that in which he would lay the foundation, to the end the work from some fortunate name might be auspiciously begun. At which time, the Nobles and Prelates with the common People met in great numbers. Prayers being said and Anthems sung, the Abbot himself laid the first corner stone on the East-side; after him every noble man according to his degree laid his stone: some laid money; others Writings, by which they offer'd their Lands, advowsons of Churches, tenths of Sheep, and other Church-tithes, certain measures of wheat, a certain number of workmen or masons; on the other side, the common people as officious, with emulation and great devotion offer'd some money, some one day's work every month till it should be finish'd, some to build whole pillars, others pedestals, and others certain parts of the walls. The Abbot afterwards made a speech, commending their great bounty in contributing to so pious a work, and by way of requital made every one of them a member of that Monastery, and gave them a right to partake with them in all the spiritual blessings of that Church. At last, having entertain'd them with a plentiful feast, he dismiss'd them in great joy. But I will not insist upon these things2.
From Crowland between the river Welland and the deep marshes, there is a Causey with willows set on each side, leading to the North; on which two miles from Crowland, I saw a fragment of a pyramid with this Inscription.
PETRAM
GVTHLACVS
HABET SI-
BI METAM.
This rock I say is Guthlack's utmost bound.
Up higher on the same river is Spalding, Spalding. a town which on every side is enclos'd with rivulets and canals, and indeed neater than can be reasonably expected in this County among so many lakes. Here Ivo Talbois, call'd somewhere in Ingulphus Earl of Anjou, granted to the Monks of Anjou an ancient Cell. From hence as far as Deeping, which is ten miles off, Egelrick Abbot of Crowland, afterwards Bishop of Durham, made a firm Causey for the sake of travellers through the midst of a vast forest and deep marshes, as Ingulphus says, of wood and gravel, which was call'd from his name, Elrich-road: but at this day 'tis not to be seen.
In the upper Hoiland which lyes more to the north, the first place is Kirkton, so call'd from the Church which is indeed very fine: afterwards, where the river Witham, enclos'd on both sides with artificial banks, runs with a full stream into the sea, stands the flourishing town of Boston, Boston. more truly Botolph's town, for it took that name, as Bede testifies, from Botolph a pious Saxon, who had a Monastery at Icanhoe. 'Tis a famous town, and built on both sides the river Witham, over which there's a very high wooden-bridge; it has a commodious and well frequented haven, a great market, a beautiful and large Church, the tower of which is very high, and does as it were salute travellers at a great distance, and direct mariners.Robbers under the disguise of Monks. It was miserably ruin'd in Edward the first's reign; for in that degenerate age, and universal corruption of manners throughout the kingdom, certain warlike men, whilst a tournament was proclaiming at Fair-time, came under the disguise of Monks and Canons, set the town on fire in many places, broke in upon the Merchants with sudden violence, and carry'd away many things, but burnt more: insomuch that our Historians write (as the ancients did of Corinth when it was demolish'd) that veins of gold and silver ran mix'd together in one common current. Their Ring-leader Robert Chamberlain, after he had confessed the fact, and detested the crime, was hang'd; but could not by any means be brought to discover his accomplices. However, Boston recover'd it self again, and a staple for wooll, which they call Woolstaple, was here settled; which very much enrich'd it, and drew hither the Merchants of the Hanse-Company, who fix'd here their Gild. At this time 'tis a fair-built, and a trading rich town; for the inhabitants apply themselves wholly to merchandise and grazing. Near this was the Barony de Croeun or Credon, Regist. de Freston. Barons of Burton Croeune. of which family was Alanus de Croeun, who founded the Priory of Freston: at last Petronilla the heiress of the family being twice married, brought no small inheritance, first to the Longchamps, which came to the Pedwardins; secondly to John Vaulx, from whom the Barons of Ross are descended. This Hoiland reaches scarce six miles farther, and was entirely given by William the first to Yvo Talbois of Anjou, whose insolences were such [Page] that Herward could never endure him; an Englishman,Herward, the Engl [...]shman. very ambitious, fiery, and resolute, the son of Leofrick Lord of Brane or Burne, who seeing his own and his Country's safety now at stake,Ingulphus Cr [...]wlanden [...]s. and having a souldier's belt put on him by Bran Abbot of Peterborough (that was also enrag'd at the Normans) broke out into open war against him, often conquer'd him, and at last took him prisoner, and would not suffer him to be ransom'd, unless he himself might be received into the King's favour: so he liv'd and dy'd in his allegiance. And indeed his valour, which is a quality we honour in our very enemies, deserv'd as much. His daughter was married to Hugh Enermeve Lord of Deping, and enjoy'd his possessions; which afterwards, as I have been informed, came to the Barons de Wake, Barons of Wake. a family very much enrich'd by the Estate of the Estotevills, very eminent, and men of great interest in these parts till Edward the second's time; for then, by an heir female, their inheritance fell by right of marriage to Edmund of Woodstock Earl of Kent, youngest son to King Edward the first. From the younger sons, the ancient and famous family of the Wakes of Blisworth in Northamptonshire yet remaining, is descended [d].
The second part of this County, commonly call'd Kesteven, Kesteven. but by Ethelwerd an ancient author Ceostefnewood [e], borders upon Hoiland on the west, happy in an air much more wholsome, and a soil no less fruitful. This division is larger than the other, and is every where adorn'd with more towns. On the borders by the river Welland, stand Stanford, Stanford. in Saxon Steanford,E saxo structili. built of free-stone, from which it has it's name. It is a town of good resort, endow'd with divers privileges, and wall'd about; paying Geld (as Domesday-book has it) for twelve Hundreds and a half to the army, and towards the navy, and Danegeld; and had in it six Wards. When King Edward the Elder fortified the southern banks of the river to hinder the Danish inroads from the north; he built also on the south bank over against it a very strong castle,Vid. Burghley in Northamptonshire. call'd now Stanford Baron, as Marianus has it. But at this day 'tis not to be seen; for the common report is, and the foundation-plot it self still witnesses, that that castle which Stephen fortified in the Civil war against Henry of Anjou, stood in the very town. Soon after, when this Henry was King of England, he gave the whole village of Stanford, being his Demesne, Lib. Inq. in the Exchequer. excepting the fees of the Barons and Knights of the said village, to Richard de Huméz, or Humetz who was Constable to our Lord the King, to hold of him by homage and other service. And afterwards, the same was held by William Earl of Warren by the favour of King John [f].University of Stanford. In Edw. 3.'s reign, an University for liberal Arts and Sciences was begun here, which the inhabitants look upon as their greatest glory: for when the hot contests at Oxford broke out between the Students of the north and south, a great number of them withdrew and settled here. However, a little after, they return'd to Oxford3, and thus soon put an end to this new University they had so lately began; and from thence forward it was provided by an oath, that no Oxford-man should profess at Stanford [g]. Notwithstanding, trade it self supported the town, till in the heat of the Civil war betwixt the houses of Lancaster and York, it was took by the Northern Soldiers, who utterly destroy'd it with fire and sword. Since that it could never perfectly recover and come up to its former glory, tho' 'tis pretty well at this time. It is govern'd by an Alderman and 24 Burgesses [h], contains about 7 Parish-Churches, and a very fair old Hospital founded by William Brown a citizen, besides a new one on this side the bridge lately built by that Nestor of Britain4 William Cecil Baron of Burghley after he had finish'd that stately house at Burghley, of which I have already spoke in Northamptonshire. He lyes buried here in a splendid tomb in St. George's Parish-Church: [i] a man, to say no more of him, that lived long enough to nature, and long enough to glory, but not long enough to his country [k].
Tho' there are in this place some remains of antiquity, and the Roman Highway out of this town into the north, clearly shews that there was formerly a Ferry here, yet they do not prove that this was that Gausennae which Antoninus places at some small distance from hence.High [...] Ga [...] But since the little village Brigcasterton B [...]dgcaste [...] ▪ (which by its very name appears to be ancient) is situated but a mile off, where the river Gwash or Wash crosses the highway; the nearness of the name Gwash to Gausennae, and the distance being not inconsistent, makes me apt to believe, till time shall bring the truth to light, that Gausennae is at present call'd Brigcasterton. If I should think Stanford sprang from the ruins of this town, and that this part of the County is call'd Kesteven from Gausennae, as the other part is nam'd Lindsey from the city Lindum, I would have the reader take it as a bare opinion, and pass what judgment he thinks fit. 'Tis the current belief, that this Gausennae was demolish'd, as Henry Archdeacon of Huntingdon relates, when the Picts and Scots ravag'd this whole County as far as Stanford; where our Hengist and his Saxons, with great pains and gallantry, stopt their progress, and forc'd them to fly in g [...]eat disorder, leaving many dead, and far more prisoners behind them [l]. But to proceed.
In the east part of Kesteven, which lies towards Hoiland as we travel northwards,Dep [...]g. there succeeds in order first Deping, that is, as Ingulphus says, a deep meadow, Dep [...]g fens. where Richard de Rulos Chamberlain to William the Conquerour, by throwing up of a great bank, excluded the river Wailand, which us'd often to overflow; built on the said bank many houses, which in all made a large village. This Deping or deep meadow is indeed very properly so call'd; for the plain which lies beneath it, of many miles in compass, is the deepest in all this marshy Country, and the rendezvous of many waters; and what is very strange, the chanel of the river Glen, which is pent in by its banks, and runs from the west, lyes much higher than this plain [m]. Next, Burn, Burn. remarkable for the Inauguration of King Edmund, and a castle of the Wakes, who got a grant of King Edw. 1. for this to be a market town [n]. More to the east stands Irnham, heretofore the Barony of5 Andrew Lutterell. And then Sempringham, Lutterel. now famous for a very fine house built by Edward Baron Clinton, afterwards Earl of Lincoln;Semp [...] ham. but heretofore for the holy order of the Gilbertines, instituted by one Gilbert Lord of the place. For he,Fryers [...] bertines. as they write, being a man very much admired, and of singular reputation for educating women, by the authority of Eugenius the 3d. Pope of Rome, in the year of our Lord 1148, (altho' contrary to the constitutions of Justinian, who forbad all double Monasteries, that is, of men and women promiscuously) introduced an order of men and women, which encreased to that degree, that he himself founded 13 Convents out of it, and liv'd to see in them 700 Gilbertine Fryers and 1100 Sisters: but their modesty was not to be bragg'd of, if we may believe Nigellus a Satyrist of that age, who thus upbraids them;
Next is Folkingham, a Barony likewise of the Clintons, Lords o [...] F [...]kingham. but once of the Gaunts descended from Gilbert de Gandavo or Gaunt, N [...]p [...] grandson to Baldwin Earl of Flanders, on whom William the Conquerour very liberally bestow'd great possessions; for thus an old Manuscript has it, Memorandum, That there came in with William the Conquerour one Gilbert de Gaunt, to whom the said William (having dispossest a woman nam'd Dunmock) [Page 465-466] granted the Manour of Folkingham, with the appurtenances thereto belonging, and the honour annex'd to it. The said Gilbert had Walter de Gaunt his son and heir, who had Gilbert de Gaunt his son and heir, and Robert de Gaunt his younger son; and the said Gilbert the son and heir had Alice his daughter and heiress, who was married to Earl Simon, and gave many tenements to Religious men, but dyed without issue by her. The Inheritance then descended to the aforesaid Robert de Gaunt her uncle, who had Gilbert his son and heir, who had another Gilbert his son and heir, who had also another Gilbert his son and heir, by whom the Manour of Folkingham, with its appurtenances, was given to Edward the son of Henry King of England. This Gilbert, [...] H. 3. [...]. as it is in the Plea-rolls, out of which this Genealogy is prov'd, su'd for service against William de Scremby. At last the King gave it to6 Henry de Bellomonte; for nothing is more clear than that he enjoy'd it in Edward the second's reign. [...]. 4. E. 2. [...]cking [...]m. Near this is Skrekingham, remarkable for the death of Alfric the second Earl of Leicester, kill'd by Hubba the Dane. Which place, 'tis very probable, Ingulphus speaks of, when he writes, In Kesteven three Danish petty Kings were slain, and they interr'd them in a certain village heretofore call'd Laundon, but now Tre-king-ham, by reason of the burial of the three Kings. More to the east is Hather, famous for nothing but the name of the Busseys or Busleys, [...]fy. who live here, and derive themselves from Roger de Busley cotemporary with the Conquerour. [...]xd. And then Sleford a castle of the Bishops of Lincoln, erected by Alexander the Bishop; where also7 John Hussy, [...] [...]ly. the first and last Baron of that name8, built himself a house, but lost his head for rashly engaging in the common insurrection in the year 1537, when the feuds and difference about Religion first broke out in England. A few miles from hence stands Kime, [...]me. from whence a noble family call'd de Kime had their name; but the Umfranvils, three of whom were summon'd to sit in the house of Lords by the name of Earls of Angus in Scotland, [...]s of [...]gus. became at last possessors of it. The sages of the Common Law would not allow the first of these (forasmuch as Angus was not within the bounds of the Kingdom of England) to be an Earl, before he produc'd in open Court, the King's Writ by which he was summon'd to Parliament under the title of Earl of Angus. From the Umfravils this came to the Talbois, one of which family, nam'd Gilbert, was by Henry the eighth created Baron of Talbois, whose two sons died without issue; so that the inheritance went by females to the family of the Dimocks, Inglebies, and others. More to the west stands Temple Bruer, [...]mple [...]er. that is, as I take it, Temple in the Heath: it seems to have been a Preceptory of the Templars, for there are to be seen the ruinous walls of a demolish'd Church, not unlike those of the New Temple in London. Near it is Blankeney, [...]ons [...]ncourt. once the Barony of the Deincourts, who flourish'd in a continu'd succession, from the coming in of the Normans to the times of Henry 6. for then their heir male fail'd in one William, whose two sisters and heirs were married, the one to9 William Lovel, the other to Ralph Cromwell. I have the more readily taken notice of this family, because I would willingly answer the request of Edmund Baron Deincourt, who was long since so very desirous to preserve the memory of his name: having no issue male he petition'd K. Ed. 2. for liberty "To make over his Manours and Arms to whomsoever he pleas'd; [...]. 21 H. 6. [...]. 10 [...]w. 2. for he imagin'd that both his name and Arms would go to the grave with him, and was very sollicitous they should survive and be remembred." Accordingly, the King complied, and he had Letters Patents for that end. Yet this sirname, so far as my knowledge goes, is now quite extinct, and would have been drown'd in oblivion, if books and learning had not sav'd it.
In the west part of Kesteven, where this County borders on Leicestershire, on a very steep, and, as it seems, [...]voir, or [...]er [...]le. artificial hill, stands Belvoir or Beauvoir-Castle, so call'd, whatever the name was formerly, from its pleasant prospect; which, with the little Monastery adjoyning, was built, as 'tis given out, by Todeneius a Norman; from whom, by the Albenies Britans and by the Roos's Barons, it came to be the inheritance of the Manours, Earls of Rutland; by the first of whom, nam'd Thomas, it was, as I have heard, rebuilt, after it had laid in ruins many years. For William Lord Hastings, in spight to Thomas Lord Roos who sided with Henry 6. almost demolish'd it, and upon the attainder of Baron Roos, had it granted him by Edward 4. with very large possessions. But Edmund Baron Roos, the son of Thomas, by the bounty of Henry 7. regain'd this his ancestors inheritance [o]. About this castle are found the stones call'd Astroites, Astroites. which resemble little stars link'd one with another, having five rays in every corner, and in the middle of every ray a hollow. This stone among the Germans had its name from Victory; for they think, as Georgius Agricola writes in his sixth book of Minerals, That whosoever carries this stone about him, shall be successful against his enemies. But I have not yet had an opportunity to make the experiment, whether this stone of ours, when put in vinegar, will move out of its place and whirl round, like that in Germany. The Vale beneath this castle, commonly call'd from it, The Vale of Belver, The Vale of Belver. is pretty large and exceeding pleasant, by reason of the corn-fields and pastures there. It lies part in Nottinghamshire, part in Leicestershire, and part in Lincolnshire.
If not in this very place, yet for certain very near it,† stood formerly that Margidunum Margidunum. which Antoninus makes mention of next to Vernometum; and this may sufficiently be prov'd, both by its name and distance from Vernometum, and the Town Ad Pontem, otherwise Paunton, for Antoninus places it between them. It seems to have taken this ancient name from Marga, and the situation of it. For Marga among the Britains is a sort of earth with which they manure their grounds; and Dunum, which signifies a hill, is applicable only to high places. But I do for all that very much question this etymology, seeing there is very little Marle in this place (the not searching for it being perhaps the reason;) except the Britains by the name of Marga understandGypsum. Plaister-stone, which is, as I am inform'd, dug up not far from hence, and was (as Pliny declares in his natural history) in great request among the Romans, who used it in their Plaisterings andSigillis. Cielings.
Thro' this part of the Shire runs Witham, Riv. Witham. a little river, but very full of Pikes; and the northern parts are bounded by it. Its spring head is at a little town of the same name,Bitham. not far from the ruins of Bitham-Castle, which, as we find in an old pedigree, was by William the first given to Stephen Earl of Albemarle and Holderness, to enable him to feed his son, as yet a little infant, with fine white bread, (for at that time nought was eaten in Holderness but oat-bread,) altho' 'tis now very little used there. This castle nevertheless in the reign of Edward 3. was (when William de Fortibus Earl of Albemarle,Mat. Par. like a rebel, fortify'd it, and plunder'd the whole neighbourhood) laid almost level with the ground. Afterwards this became the seat, and as it were, the head of the Barony of the Colvills, Colvill. who lived for a long time in very great honour, but failed in Ed. 3.'s time; so that the Gernons and those Bassets of Sapcot, had this inheritance in right of their wives.
A little way from the head of the river Witham stands Paunton, Paunton. that boasteth very much of its antiquity; chequer'd pavements of the Romans are very often dug up in it, and there was here formerly a bridge over the river. For both the name Paunton, and its distance not only from Margidunum, but also from Croco-calana, Pontes. do evince that this is that Ad pontem which Antoninus places 7 miles from Margidunum. For Antoninus calls that town Croco-calana which we name Ancaster, being at this time only one direct street along the military way; one part of which not long [Page] since belong'd to the Vescies, the other to the Cromwells. In the entrance on the South, I saw a trench, and 'tis very evident 'twas a castle formerly; as also on the other side towards the West, are to be seen certain summer camps of the Romans. It seems to have had that British name from its situation, for it lies under a hill, and we read in Giraldus Cambrensis, and in Ninnius, that among the Britains Cruc maur signify'd a great hill, and Cruc-occhidient, a mount in the west; but I leave others to find out the meaning of the word Colana. The antiquity of this town appears by Roman coins, by the Vaults that are often discover'd, by its situation on the high-way, and by the fourteen miles distance between this and Lincoln (the road lying through a green plain, call'd Ancaster-heath) for just so many Antoninus makes it to be between Croco-calana and Lindum. But let us follow the river [p].
Next to Paunton [q] is to be seen Grantham, Grantham. a town of no small resort; adorn'd with a School, built by Richard Fox Bishop of Winchester, and with a fair Church having a very high spire steeple, remarkable for the many stories that are told of it. Beneath this town near the little village Herlaxton, in the last age, was a brazen vessel plow'd up, in which they found an old fashion'd gold helmet,A golden H [...]lm [...]t. studded with jewels, which was presented to Katharine of Spain, Queen Dowager to Henry the eighth. From hence Witham, (after a long course northwards) runs near Somerton-castle,Som [...]rton. Lib. Dunelmensis. built by Anthony Bec Bp. of Durham, by whom 'twas given to Edward the first; but a little after to10 William de Bellomont, Lords of B [...]llomont. who about that time came into England: of him is descended the family of the Viscounts de Bellomonte, which in the last age was almost extinct, the sister and heiress of the last Viscount being married to John Lord Lovel de Tichmersh; but we have spoken already of this family in Leicestershire. From hence the river winds towards the South east, through a fenny country, and discharges it self into the German-sea, a little below Boston, after it has bounded Kesteven on the North. Altho' this river falls from a steep descent and large chanel into the sea, yet by the great floods in the winter, it overflows the fenns on each side, with no small loss to the Country; however, these waters are drain'd in the spring by the sluces, call'd by them Gotes.
On the other side of Witham, lyes the third part of this County, call'd Lindsey, Lindsey. by Bede Lindissi, from the chief city of this shire: 'tis bigger than Hoiland or Kesleven, jetting out into the ocean with a large front, which has the sea continually plying upon its East and North shores; on the West lyes the river Trent, on the South 'tis parted from Kesteven by the Witham, and the Foss-dike Foss-dike. (seven miles in length) cut by Henry the first between the Witham and the Trent,Hoveden. for the conveniency of carriage from Lincoln. At the entrance of this Dike into the Trent, stands Torksey, Torkesey. in Saxon Turcesig, now a little mean town, but heretofore very noted; for there were in it before the Norman times (as 'tis in Domesday-bookDomesday-book.) two hundred Burgesses, who enjoy'd many privileges, on condition that they should carry the King's Ambassadors as often as they came that way, down the river Trent in their own barges, and conduct them as far as York [r]. At the joyning of this Dike to Witham [s], stands the Metropolis of this County call'd by Ptolemy and Antoninus Lindum, Lindum. by the Britains Lindcoit, from the woods, (instead whereof 'tis in some places falsly written Luitcoit, Lincoln.) Bede calls it Lindecollinum, and the city Lindecollina, but whether it be from its situation on a hill, or because 'twas formerly a Colony, I will not undertake to determine; the Saxons call it Lindo-collyne, Lind-cyllanceaster, the Normans Nichol, we Lincoln, the Latins Lincolnia. From whence Alexander Necham in his Treatise de Divina Sapientia:
Others believe it had its name from the river Witham, which, say they, was formerly call'd Lindis; but they have no authority, so this is a bare conjecture. For my part I cannot agree with them; for Necham himself, who wrote four hundred years ago, contradicts them, and calls this river, Witham, in these verses:
I should rather derive it from the British word Lhin, which with them signifies a Lake; for I have been inform'd by the citizens, that Witham was wider formerly at Swanpole below the city, altho' 'tis at this day very broad. I need take no notice of Lindaw in Germany (standing by the Lake Acronius) to confirm it, nor of Linternum in Italy, situated upon a Lake; since Tall-hin, Glan-lhin, Linlithquo are towns in our Country of Britain standing upon Lakes. The city it self is very large, and much resorted to, being built on the side of a noted hill; where the Witham winds about towards the East, and being divided into three chanels, watereth the lower part of it. That the ancient Lindum of the Britains, stood on the very top of the hill, of a very difficult ascent, and lay much farther extended in length Northward, than the gate Newport; is evident by the plain signs of a rampire, and deep ditches still visible. Vortimer that warlike Britain, who had very often routed the Saxons, died in this City, and was here interr'd, altho' he left commands to the contrary; for he (as 'tis related by Ninnius, Eluodugus's disciple) hop'd, and was fully perswaded that his Ghost would defend Britain from the Saxons, if he should be buried on the Sea-shore. But yet the Saxons, after they had demolish'd this old Lindum, first inhabited the South-side of the hill11, and fortified it with the ruins of the former town; afterwards they went down near the river, built in a place call'd Wickanforde, and wall'd it on that side where it was not guarded by the water. At which time "Paulinus, as BedeBede. affirms, preach'd the word of God in the Province of Lindesey, and first of all converted the Governour of the city Lindcolnia, whose name was Blecca (with his whole family). He built in this city a curious Church of stone, the roof whereof is either fall'n down for want of repairing, or beat down by force of some enemy; for the walls are yet to be seen standing". Afterwards the Danes won it twice by assault; first when those pillaging troops took it, from whom Edmund Ironside wrested it by force; secondly when Canutus took it, from whom 'twas retaken by Aetheldred, who on his return out of Normandy, valiantly drove Canutus out of this town, and beyond all expectation recover'd England, which was very nigh lost. In Edward the Confessor's reign there was in it, as 'tis set down in Domesday-book, one thousand and seventy Inns for entertainment, and twelve Lagemen having their Sac and Soc. "'Twas indeed in the Norman times, as Malmsbury relates, one of the most populous cities of England, and a mart for all goods coming by land and water"; for at that time there were taxed in it, as 'tis in the said Domesday-book, "Nine hundred Burgesses; and many dwelling houses, to the number of one hundred sixty and six, were destroy'd for the castle, with 74 more without the limits of the castle, not by the oppression of the Sheriff and his Ministers, but by misfortune, poverty, and fire". William the first, to strengthen it and to keep the Citizens in awe, built a very large and strong castle on the ridge of the hill, and about the same time Remigius Bishop of Dorchester, to grace it, transferr'd hither from Dorchester, a little town in the farthest part of his Diocese, his Bishop's See. And when the Church erected by Paulinus, was utterly decay'd, "The aforesaid R [...]migius bought in the very highest part of the city several houses, with the ground [Page] thereto belonging, near the castle that overtops all, (as Henry of Huntingdon notes) with its mighty towers, and built in a strong place a strong and fine Church, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and endow'd it with 44 Prebends; at which the Arch-bishop of York was very angry, for he claim'd for himself the property of the ground". This Church being disfigur'd by fire, was afterwards repair'd, as the said Henry mentions, with very great art by Alexander that bountiful Bishop of Lincoln; of whom the aforesaid William of Malmsbury speaks thus; Seeing he was lookt upon as a prodigy, by reason of his small body; his mind strove to excel and be the more famous in the world": and among other things a Poet of that age wrote thus;
And not only these two, but Robert Bloet, who was predecessor to Alexander, and R. de Beaumeis, Hugo Burgundus, and their successors contributed to advance this work (which was too much for one Bishop) to its present state and grandeur. The whole pile is not only very costly, but indeed very beautiful, and excellent for its workmanship; especially that porch on the West-side, which attracts and delights every beholders eye. Altho' there be many tombs of Bishops and others in this Church, yet the only ones worth our notice, are, that of brass in which the entrails of the most excellent Queen Eleanor, wife to Edward the first12, are interr'd, and that of13 Nicholas de Cantelupo, with one or two belonging to the family of Burghersh, also that of Katharine Swinford third wife to John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster, and mother of the Somerset-family, with whom lyes buried her daughter Joan, second wife to Ralph Nevill the first Earl of Westmorland, who had many children by her.
The Diocese of the Bishops of Lincoln being of a far greater extent than that of the Bishops of Sidnacester (who in the primitive Saxon Church presided in this County,) contain'd under it so many Counties, that its greatness was a burden to it; and altho' Henry the second took out of it the Diocese of Ely, and Henry the eighth those of Peterborough and Oxford, yet 'tis still counted the largest Bishoprick in England, both for jurisdiction and number of shires, and contains no less than 1247 Parish-Churches. Many excellent Bishops have govern'd this See, since Remigius; but to be particular in reckoning them is beyond my design. And therefore make no mention of Robert Bloet, on whom King William Rufus set an amercement of 50000 pounds, alledging that the Bishop's title to the city of Lincoln was defective; [...]eden. nor, of that bountiful Alexander, who was ever extravagantly fond of prodigious buildings; nor yet of Hugo Burgundus, who being canoniz'd, had his corps carry'd to the grave, as my Author says, on the shoulders of King John and his Nobles, out of respect and duty to God, and the sainted Prelate. I must not however omit mentioning two persons, [...] di [...]d [...]. [...]233. the one Robert Grostest a better Scholar and Linguist than could be expected from the age he liv'd in; [...]atth. Paris [...]d an [...]nymous [...]t [...]rian. an awe to the Pope, a Monitor to the King, a Lover of Truth, a Corrector of Prelates, a Director of Priests, an Instructor of the Clergy, a Maintainer of Scholars, a Preacher to the People, and a diligent Searcher of Scripture, a Mallet to the Romanists, &c. The other is the most reverend Father Thomas Cooper, very deserving both from the Common-wealth of Learning, and from the Church, whom I am bound always to honour, for that he was the Master, in whose School I must graetfully own I had my education. The city it self also flourish'd for a long time, being made by Edward the third a Staple, [...]he Staple. as they call it, that is, a Mart for Wooll, Leather, Lead, &c. Tho' it cannot have reason to complain of great misfortunes, yet it has been once burnt, once besieged, and that in vain, by King Stephen, who was there overthrown, and taken prisoner; and once taken by Henry the third, defended then against him by his rebellious Barons, who had call'd in Lewis of France, to take upon him the Government of England; however, he did not do it much damage. Since that, 'tis incredible how much it hath sunk and decay'd, under the weight of time and antiquity; for of fifty Churches that were remembred in it by our grandfathers, there are scarce now eighteen remaining [t]. 'Tis distant (that I may also make that remark) 53 degrees and 12 minutes from the Equator, and 22 degrees and 52 minutes from the farthest point Westward.
As that Roman high-way leads us directly from Stanford to Lincoln,High-dike. so from hence it goes Northward in a high and streight, but yet here and there discontinued Causey, for about 10 miles, as far as a little village call'd The Spittle in the street, and somewhat farther. When I was about three miles from Lincoln, I also observ'd another military high-way, calld Ouldstreet, going very plainly out of this towards the West; I suppose 'tis that which led to Agelocum the next garrison to Lindum. But I will follow the road I am upon.
The Witham being now past Lindum runs down near Wragbye, a part of the Barony call'd Trusbutt, Barons of Trusbutt. which title was by the Barons of Roos convey'd to the Manours now Earls of Rutland. After, it passes by the old ruin'd walls of Beardena, or Peartaneu, commonly call'd Bardney, Bardney. heretofore a famous Monastery;Oswald's Banner. here King Oswald was interr'd, and had a banner of gold and purple over his tomb, as Bede writes. The Historians of the foregoing ages, did not account it enough to extol this most Christian Hero Oswald, unless to his glorious exploits they added ridiculous miracles, which I willingly omit. But that his hand remain'd here uncorrupted for many hundred years, our ancestors have believ'd, and a very ancient Poet has thus told us:
This Monastery, as Petrus Blesensis writes,Appendix to Ingulphus. being sometime burnt down by the fury of the Danes, and for many years together not inhabited, Gilbert de Gaunt the noble and devout Earl of Lincoln rebuilt it, and very bountifully annex'd to it the tithes of all his manours wheresoever in England, besides many other possessions. Afterwards Witham is encreas'd by the little river Ban, which rising in the middle of Lindsey, runs first by Hornecastle, Horn-castle sometime belonging to Adeliza de Conde, but laid even with the ground in King Stephen's reign: after that it was a Barony of Gerard de Rodes, but now, as I have been inform'd, of the Bishops of Carlisle [u]. And then by Scrivelby a manour of the Dimocks, Dimock. Inq. 23 E. 3. who had this by descent from the Marmions by14 J. Ludlow, King's Champion. Fines Mic. An. 1 H. 6. and hold it by service of grand Serjeanty (I speak in the Lawyers terms) viz. that whensoever any King of England is to be crown'd, the Lord of this manour for the time being, or some in his name if he should be unable, shall come well arm'd for war, upon a good war-horse, in the presence of our Lord the King, on the day of his Coronation, and shall cause it to be proclaimed, That if any one shall say that our said Lord the King has not a right to his Crown and Kingdom, he will be ready and prepar'd to defend with his body, the right of the King and Kingdom, and the dignity of his Crown, against him and all others whatsoever. The Ban, a little lower at Tatteshall Tatteshall. (a small town pretty commodiously situated in a marshy Country, built for the most part of brick, as is also its castle, and noted for it's Barons) runs into the Witham. 'Tis related, that Eudo and Pinso, [Page] Norman Noblemen, having entred into a kind of mutual brotherly alliance, had by the bounty of William 1. many possessions given them in these parts; which they so divided, that Tatteshall fell to Eudo, who held it by Barony; from whose posterity it came by Dryby and the Bernakes to15 Ralph de Cromwell,Cromwell. whose son, of the same name, was Lord Treasurer of England in Henry 6.'s reign, and dyed without issue. And Eresby, Eresby. which is not far off, fell to Pinso; from whose children the inheritance came by the Bekes to the Willoughbies, Willoughbies. who had very large inheritances by their wives, not only from the Uffords Earls of Suffolk, but also from the Lords de Welles, Lords Welles. who brought with them the great estate of the de Engains, L [...]rds Engain. an ancient noble family, and of great power in this County, from the first coming in of the Normans. The most eminent man of those Willoughbies, was16 Robert Willoughby in Henry 5.'s reign, who for his great courage and bravery, was made Earl of Vandosme in France. From these, by the mother's side, descended Peregrine Berty, Baron Willoughby of Eresby, a man famous for his great soul and warlike gallantry [x]. Witham being now near the sea, receives out of the north another nameless little river;Lib. Stanlow. at the springhead of which, in a very low ground [y], lies Bollingbroke-Castle, Bolling-broke. built by William de Romara Earl of Leicester, of a brittle sandy stone; taken from Alice Lacy by Edward 2. for that she married against his consent: 'tis famous for the birth of Henry 4. who from it had the name of Henry de Bollingbroke, in whose time it began to be counted one of the honorary manours, call'd Honors [z]. The Witham having receiv'd this river below Boston [aa], (as we have said) discharges it self into the sea.
From the mouth of Witham, as far as Humber-frith, the shore lies out with a great bent into the German Ocean, chop'd every where so as to admit little arms of the sea. It has but few towns, by reason there are but few havens in it, and many shelves of sand along the shore. Yet some of them are remarkable, particularly Wainfleet, Wainfleet. as being the birth-place of William Wainfleet Bishop of Winchester, founder of Magdalen College in Oxford, and a great patron of learning. Next is Alford, Alford. memorable for its market, for which it is beholden to Leon Lord Welles, Barons Welles. who obtain'd it this privilege of Henry 6. This family of the Welles was indeed very ancient and very honourable, but the last of them married King Edward 4.'s daughter, and was made Viscount Welles by Henry 7. He died without issue, so that the inheritance came by females to the Willoughbies, Dimoes, De la launds, Hois, &c.17 Then Louth, a little market-town of good resort, taking its name from Lud a little river that runs by Cockerington, heretofore the head of the Barony de Scoteney. And lastly Grimsby, Grimsby. which our Sabines,Eulogium. lovers of their own conceits, will have so call'd, from one Grime a Merchant, who brought up a little child of the Danish blood-royal (nam'd Havelock) that was exposed; for which he is much talk'd of, as is also that Haveloc his Pupil, who was first a Scullion in the King's kitchen, but afterwards for his eminent valour had the honour to marry the King's daughter. He perform'd I know not what great exploits, which for certain are fitter for tattling gossips in a winter night, than a grave Historian [bb]18.
Scarce six miles from hence, farther in the Country, is to be seen the ancient castle, call'd at this time Castor, Castor. in Saxon Duang-caster and Thong-caster, in British Caer-Egarry; Thong-castle. but in both languages it takes the name from the thing, viz. from a hide cut in pieces, as Byrsa Byrsa. the most noted Carthaginian castle did. For 'tis affirm'd in our annals that Hengist the Saxon, having conquer'd the Picts and Scots, and got very large possessions in other places, begged also of Vortigern as much ground in this place as he could encompass with an Ox's hide cut out in very small Thongs, where he built this castle: whence, one who has writ a Breviary of the British history in verse, transpos'd Virgil's verses in this manner,
From Grimesby the shore gives back with great winding, and admits the aestuary Abus or Humber by Thornton, heretofore a College for divine worship, founded by William Crassus Earl of Albemarle, and by Barton, where we pass into the County of York,Th [...] C [...]ll [...]g▪ by a very noted Ferry. Next this lies Ankam, a little muddy river, and for that reason full of Eels,B [...] [...] [...] ber. which at last runs into the Humber: near the springhead of it, stands Market-Rasin, so call'd from a pretty throng market there. A little higher stands Angotby, now corruptly call'd Osgodby, belonging heretofore to the family19 of S. Medardo, from whom the Airmoines had it by inheritance;O [...]g [...] and Kelsay which was sometime the estate of the Hansards, very eminent in this Shire;K [...]. from whom it came to the Ashcoughs Knights, by marriage [cc]. Afterwards the Ankam is joyn'd with a bridge to Glanford a little market town, call'd by the common people Brigg, from the bridge, the true name being almost quite forgotten. Near this town, within a park, is to be seen Kettleby the seat of the famous family of the Tirwhitts Knights20, but formerly the dwelling-place of one Ketellus, K [...]tt [...]. as the name it self intimates,Tirw [...]. which was very common among the Danes and Saxons. For in Saxon Bye signifies an habitation, and Byan to inhabit; which is the reason why so many places all over England, but especially in this County, end in By. Bye.
This County is at certain seasons so stock'd with fowl (to say nothing of fish) that one may very justly admire the numbers and variety of them;Birds. and those not common ones, and such as are of great value in other Countries, namely, Teal, Quails, Woodcocks, Pheasants, Partridge, &c. but such as we have no Latin words for, and that are so delicate and agreeable, that the nicest palates always covet them, viz. Puittes, Godwitts; Knotts, that is, as I take it, Canutus's birds, for they are believ'd to fly hither out of Denmark; Dotterells, Knots. so call'd from their dotish silliness: for the mimick birds are caught at candle-light by the fowler's gestures;Dott [...]s. if he stretch out his arm, they imitate him with their wing; if he holds out his leg, they likewise will do the same with theirs: to be short, whatsoever the fowler does they do after him, till at last they let the net be drawn over them. But I leave these to be observed either by such as delight curiously to dive into the secrets of nature, or that squander away their estates in luxury and epicurism.
More westward, the river Trent, (after a long course within its sandy banks, which are the bounds to this Shire,) falls from the Fossedike into the Humber, having first of all ran pretty near Stow, Stow. where Godiva Earl Leofrick's wife, built a Monastery, which, by reason of its low situation under the hills, is said, by Henry of Huntingdon, to lye under the Promontory of Lincoln [dd]. Then by Knath, now the seat of the Lord Willoughby of Parham, formerly of the family of the Barons of Darcy, Knath. who had great honours and possessions by the daughter and heir of Meinill. This family of the Darcies came from one more ancient, to wit, from one Norman de Adrecy or Darcy of Nocton, who was in high esteem under Henry 3. His posterity endow'd the little Monastery at Alvingham in this County.D [...]rcy de Noc [...] & Knath. But this honour was in a manner extinct; when Norman, the last of the right and more ancient line, left only two sisters, the one married to Roger Penwardin, the other to Peter de Limbergh. Fi [...]es 29 E [...]. [...].
Afterwards the Trent runs down to Gainsborow, a little town, famous for being the harbour of the Danish ships, and for the death of Sueno Tiugskege, Ga [...] row. a Danish Tyrant; who when he had pillaged the Country, as Matthew of Westminster writes, was [Page 473-474] here stabb'd by an unknown person, and so at last suffer'd the punishment due to his wickedness. Some ages after this, it was the possession of21 William de Valentia Earl of Pembroke, who obtain'd of Edw. 1. the privilege of a Fair for it. The Barons of Borrough who dwell here, (of whom we have spoken before in Surrey) are descended from this Earl by the Scotch Earls of Athol, [...]s of [...]ough. and the Percies [ee]. In this part of the County stood formerly the city Sidnacester, once the seat of the Bishops of this County, who were call'd Bishops of Lindiffar; [...]acester. but this town is now so sadly decay'd, that neither the ruins nor name of it are in being [ff]. I must not omit, that here at Mellwood there flourishes the honourable family of St. Paul Knights, corruptly call'd Sampoll, which I always thought came from the ancient Castilion family of the Earls of St. Paul [...]. Paul. in France; but the Coat of Arms of Luxemburgh that they bear, is a sign that they came out of France, since that Castilion family of St. Paul was by marriage ingrafted into that of Luxemburgh; which was about two hundred years ago.
Above this, the Trent, the Idell, and the Dan, as they play along in their several streams, (thus Frontinus expresses it) make a river Island, Axelholme, in Saxon Eaxelholme, which is part of Lincolnshire; in length from south to north 10 miles, [...]sholm. but not past half so broad. The lower part near the rivers is marshy, and produces an odoriferous shrub, call'd Gall 22. The middle has a small ascent, and is both rich and fruitful, yielding flax in great abundance, and also Alabaster; [...]. which being not very solid, is more proper for lime and plaisterwork, than for other uses. [...]aster. The chief town was formerly call'd Axel, now Axey; from whence, by adding the Saxon word Holme (which among them signified a river-island) the name, without question, was compounded. It hardly deserves to be call'd a town, 'tis so thinly inhabited; nevertheless, there is to be seen a platform of a castle that was demolish'd in the Barons war, and belonged to the Mowbrays, who at that time had a great part of the island in their possession. In the year 1173. Roger de Mowbray (as the Author of an old Chronicle has it) forsaking his allegiance to the H [...]ry [...]. [...] re [...] to his [...]. be [...]g [...]r. Elder King, repair'd a Castle formerly demolish'd in the Isle Axelholme near Kinard ferry; which Castle a great number of Lincolnshire-men passing over in boats, besieged, and compell'd the Constable and all the soldiers to surrender, and laid it level with the ground. A little higher lies Botterwic; the owner whereof,23 Edmund Sheffeld, was the first Baron of that family, created by Edward the sixth, and lost his life for his Country against the Norfolk rebels; having by Anne Vere, a daughter of the Earl of Oxford, John the second Baron, father to Edmund, who is now Knight of the most noble Order of the Garter24. More northward on the other side of Trent is Burton Stather, of which I have not as yet read any thing remarkable.
Since Egga who liv'd in the year 710, and Morcar, both Saxons, that were only Officiary Earls; this County has given the title of Earl to William de Romara a Norman,Earls of Lincoln. after whose death (for this title was never enjoy'd by his son, who died before him, nor by his grandson) King Stephen conferr'd it on Gilbert de Gaunt, who succeeded him; but he dying, Simon de St. Licius the younger, son of Earl Simon (you have the very words of Robert Montensis who lived about that time) when he wanted lands, 2 Hen. 2. receiv'd from King Henry 2. his only daughter to wife, together with his honour. Afterwards Lewis of France, who was call'd into England by the rebellious Barons, created another Gilbert of the de Gaunts family, Earl of Lincoln; but as soon as Lewis was forc'd away, and he found himself acknowledg'd Earl by no man, he quitted the title of his own accord. Then Ralph, the sixth Earl of Chester, had this honour granted him by King Henry 3. and a little before his death gave by Charter to Hawise his sister wife of Robert de Quincy, the Earldom of Lincoln, so far forth as it appertain'd to him, that she might be Countess thereof; for so are the ve [...]y words of the Charter. She in like manner bestow'd it on John de Lacy Constable of Chester, and the heirs he should beget on Margaret her daughter. This John begat Edmund, who dying before his mother, left this honour to be enjoy'd by Henry his son, the last Earl of this family. For when he lost his sons by untimely deaths, he contracted his only daughter Alice, when but nine years old, to Edmund Earl of Lancaster, on condition, that if he should dye without issue of his body, or if they should dye without heirs of their bodies, his Castles, Lordships, L iger-b [...]ok of Stanlow. &c. should come in the remainder to Edmund Earl of Lancaster, and his heirs for ever. But this Alice having no children by her husband Thomas (who was beheaded) lost her reputation by her light behaviour, for that she, without the K.'s consent, was married to25 Eubulo Le-Strange, Edw. 2. with whom she had been formerly somewhat too intimate; for which reason the offended King seiz'd her estate26. But Alice being very old, and dying without issue, Henry Earl of Lancaster, grandchild to Edmund by his second son, had this her large patrimony, by virtue of the aforesaid conveyance; and from this time it became the inheritance of the house of Lancaster. Nevertheless, the Kings of England have conferr'd on several the title of Earl of Lincoln; as, Edward 4. on27 John De-la-pole, and Henry 8. on Henry Brandon, who were both sons of the Dukes of Suffolk, and died without issue. Then Qu. Eliz. promoted to this honour,See Dukes of Suffolk. Edward Baron Clinton, Lord High Admiral of England; by whose very honourable son Henry 'tis at present enjoy'd.
There are in this County about 630 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to LINCOLNSHIRE.
[a] THE corner of this County, where Mr. Camden begins his survey, seems formerly to have been a very inconsiderable, or rather no part of it. For as he observes from the banks there, that the sea must once have come something farther, so Mr. Dugdale putting Holland in the same number with Marshland in Norfolk and some other maritime places, plainly proves that they have been long ago, by great industry, gain'd from the sea, and were for many ages nothing but a vast and deep fen, affording little benefit to the nation besides fish or fowl.
[b] As to the original of the name, I shall not make the least scruple to joyn this and Holland [...]lland. in the Netherlands together, agreeing so exactly in their situation, soil, and most other circumstances; setting aside the difference of improvements, which no doubt are much more considerable in one than the other, but are nothing to our purpose, so long as the primitive state of both was much the same. Mr. Butler's conjecture drawn from the Saxon holt, a wood, and Ingulphus's Hoilandia which has given occasion to derive it from hay, seem to lye under the same inconvenience, in that the soil does not favour either of these, or at least not so much as to render the place eminent for them. I would not willingly go any farther than the Saxon heah deep, the remains whereof our Northern parts still retain in their how, which [Page 475-476] they use for deep or low; and the breakings in of the sea, with the banks made against it, sufficiently declare how much the nature of the place contributes towards this conjecture.
[c] Upon the confines of Norfolk, lyes Tydd, Tydd, a small village, but famous for the once Rector of it Nicholas Breakspear, who planted Christianity in Norway: for which good service to the Church he was afterwards made Cardinal, and in the year 1154, Pope, under the name of Hadrian the fourth.
[d] To endeavour the discovery of any thing that looks like Roman hereabouts, would be a search as fruitless as unreasonable; and for its condition in the Saxon times, Ingulphus fully answers that, whose history, no doubt, is the best intelligence for those parts. For which reasons we shall take leave of it, and go along with our Author into the second part of this County; having first observ'd that this, as well as Lindsey division, has had its Earls, and gave title to Henry Rich Lord Kensington, created Earl of Holland, Apr. 3. 22 Jac. 1. He was succeeded by Robert his son, who had the additional title of Earl of Warwick by the death of Charles Rich, Earl of that place, his Cousin-german. Whereupon both titles are at present enjoy'd by the right honourable Edward Rich, stil'd Earl of Warwick and Holland.
[e] Kesteven, Kesteven. Mr. Camden observes is call'd by Aethelwerd Ceostefne Sylva (the wood Ceostefne.) The reason of it is this; because there was really a great forest at this end of the division, where now are the large fenns, call'd Deeping-Fenns, &c. A plain argument whereof is, that the trunks of trees are dugg up in several ditches thereabouts, which lye cover'd some two foot with a light black mold. And Mr. Neal (to whom the world is indebted for this and other discoveries in this County) tells me, that in a ditch of his own just at the edge of the fenns, there was about 12 years ago several trunks of trees lying in the bottom, and in another place as many acorns turn'd out of one hole, as would fill a hat; very firm and hard, but colour'd black; and now there is no tree standing near that place by a mile, except here and there a willow lately set. The same Gentleman assures me, he has by him the copy of the Exemplification of the Letters Patents of Jac. 1. dated at Westminster, Febr. 15. in the fifth of his reign over England, and over Scotland the 41. wherein he recites by way of Inspeximus, the Letters Patents of Henry 3. dated at Portsmouth the 23d of April, in the 14th of his reign, who thereby disafforested the said forest of Kesteven in perpetuum; which was also confirm'd by the Letters Patents of Edward the third in the 20th of his reign; wherein the said forest is butted and bounded, to extend on one side from Swafton to East-Deeping, as Caresdike extends it self; (which is a dike running cross the top of the Fenns, not only of Deeping-Fenn, but also of that great fenn beyond the river Glen, call'd Lindsey-level;) and on the other side it extends to the division call'd Holland.
[f] Having made our way into this division, by a previous account why some old Authors call it a wood or forest, (whereas now there appearing no such thing, the readers might be surpriz'd;) let us accompany Mr. Camden to Stanford, Stanford. the first remarkable place we meet with. As to the Antiquity of it, our English Historians afford us very large testimonies. Henry Huntingdon lib. 5. pag 203. in his description of the wars between Edmund Ironside and the Danes, calls it an ancient city; and Ingulphus, p. 515. tells us there were Terms held at Stamford; and Hoveden in the book of Crowland, p. 249. calls it Stamfordshire, being a County-town: and very commodious it is for that use, this end of Lincolnshire adjoyning to it, being 36 miles from Lincoln, and the end of Northamtonshire next it on that side, no less from Northamton; which distance is a great inconvenience to the inhabitants so often as their business calls them to the Assizes. Stow p. 131. tells us, there was a Mint for coyning of money in Stamford-Baron, in the time of King Athelstan; but this probably was some privilege granted to the Abbots of Peterburrow; for this is that parish that's within Northamtonshire, and is within a distinct liberty granted to the Abbots of Peterburrow.
[g] Mr. Neal, before-mention'd, has an old Manuscript fragment of an history, that says Stamford was an University long before our Saviour's time, and continued so till the year 300, when it was dissolv'd by the Pope for adhering to Arrius. For the first founder of it that Author quotes Merlin, a British Historian. But whatever deference we pay to the authority of the History; from the circumstances it seems pretty plain (as the same Gentleman has observ'd) that it must be of longer date than Ed. 3. For upon that quarrel mention'd by Mr. Camden, which happen'd between the Southern and Northern Scholars, the latter it seems came hither in Nov. 1333. and return'd to Oxford before 1334. so that their short stay could not allow them any great opportunities for building. But here are still the remains of two Colleges, one call'd Black-hall, and the other Brazen-noze, in the gate whereof is a great brazen Nose and a ring through it, like that at Oxford. And 'tis evident that this did not take its pattern from Oxford, but Oxford from it, because Brazen-nose College in Oxford, was not built before the reign of Henry the seventh, and this is at least as old as Edw. 3. or probably older.
[h] So much for the University there. The government of the town Mr. Camden tells us,An Alderman and 24 C [...] burg [...]ers. is by an Alderman, and 24 Comburgenses. When this begun, is not so certain, being much elder than the first Charter they have. For there is a list of sixty upon the Court-Roll sworn there before the Incorporation, viz. from 1398. to 1460. the first year of Edward the fourth. So that Edward the fourth by his Charter seems rather to confirm an old custom than establish a new one. 'Tis very observable here that they have the Custom, which Littleton, the famous Common-Lawyer, calls Burrough English, Burro [...]g. Eng [...]. viz. the younger sons inherit what Lands or Tenements their fathers dye possess'd of within this Manour.
[i] My Lord Burghley founded a Hospital here; but when Mr. Camden says, he is bury'd in the Parish-Church of S. George in Stamford, it is a mistake; for he lyes in S. Martin's Church in Stamford-Barron, which is in Northamptonshire.
[k] After the death of William Earl of Warren, the manour, burrough, and castle of Stamford were granted to John Earl Warren by Edw. 1. and by his death reverted to the Crown. After five or six regrants from the Crown to several of the greatest Nobility, and as many returns to it, either by forfeiture or for want of heirs-male; Queen Elizabeth granted them to William Cecil first Lord Burgley: from him they descended to Anne, daughter and coheir of William Earl of Exeter, who was marry'd to Henry Grey first Earl of Stamford, advanc'd to that dignity by King Charles the first, in the third year of his reign. He was father of Thomas Lord Grey of Grooby, who dy'd in his father's life time, having marry'd Dorothy daughter and coheir of Edward Bourchier Earl of Bath: by which match the right honourable Thomas, present Earl of Stamford, is descended from Thomas of Woodstock Duke of Glocester, the Bohuns Earls of Essex, Hereford, and Northampton, and several other noble Families.
[l] Between Stamford and Lincoln, in the Kesteven division, there are many SpawsSpaws. or mineral chalybiate Springs; as at Bourne, Walcot by Folkingham, Pickworth, Newton, Aunsby, Aserby, and, 'tis said, in the grounds east of Dunsby-hall, three miles north ot Sleeford: but those chiefly celebrated and us'd, are Bourne and Walcot.
[m] Going along with the river Wealland, we are led to Deping, Deping. which manour came to the Crown by the black Prince's marrying Joan the fair Maid of Kent, who was daughter to Edmund of Woodstock Earl of Kent, and of Margaret sister and heiress to Thomas Wake, the last of that line. It is very remarkable that she had been twice marry'd before, and twice divorc'd.
[n] South from hence lyes Bourne, Bourne. which by the same marriage came to the Crown along with Deping. Mr. Camden makes it famous for the inauguration of King Edmund, and the Castle of the Wakes. For the first,Lela [...]d Itiner. M. p. 18. Leland tells us he remembers he has read some [Page] where that S. Edmund King of the East-Angles, was crown'd at Bourne, but does not know whether 'twas this Bourne. That it was not, but is to be removed into Suffolk to Buers, is evidently prov'd in the Additions to that County. For the castle; he says, there appear great ditches, and the Dungeon-hill of it against the west end of the Priory, somewhat distant from it, as on the other side of the street backward; that it belong'd to the Lord Wake, and that much service of the Wake-fee is done to it, and every Feodary knows his station, and place of service. The medicinal Spring arising here in a farm-yard, is as strong as that at Astrop in Northamptonshire, and is pretty much drank in summer time That also seven miles farther northward, [...]. near the edge of the fenns at Walcot near Folkingham, is much frequented by the Gentry of late years, and is something stronger than the other, purging both by urine and stool.
[...].[o] Let us now pass to the western part of Kesteven Division, where Belvoir-castle first offers it self to our view. And as three Counties, Leicester, Nottingham, and Lincoln, share of the Vale, so is it not easie to determine whether the Priory there belongs to the first or last of the three. For the castle, there is no dispute but it belongs to Lincoln; only there is some difference about the founder of it. Mr. Camden is for Todeney a Norman; but Mr. Burton is willing to have it rais'd by one of the house of Albeney; whose first name indeed he does not deny might be Totney, or Todeney. He grounds his opinion upon some ancient Records about the time of King Henry the first, or elder, proving the Albenies then to be resident here; who were true Natives of this land, and no Normans or Strangers, because of the addition to their names with which he declares he has seen them written, Willielmus de Albiniaco, Brito. As to the Priory, Mr. Camden seems to make it go along with the Castle, but Mr. Burton brings it over into Leicestershire, perhaps more out of a desire to enlarge his own province, than any just reason, unless there be a fuller intimation of it in the Roll of the fifth of Henry the third (upon which he builds) than any thing he has quoted out of it.
[...].[p] Ancaster presents it self next, to the Antiquity whereof, abundantly shown by Mr. Camden, I have nothing to add. Leland (Itinerar. p. 20) sets down, how an old man of Ancaster told him, [...], or [...]. that by Uresby or Roseby, a plough-man took up a stone, and found another stone under it, wherein was a square-hole, having Roman-coin in it. [...]. Near to this place is Herlaxton, where the same author mentions the helmet of gold set with stones, which was presented to Catharine, Princess dowager; and further adds to what Mr. Camden has said of it, that there were also bedes of silver in that pot, and writings corrupted.
[q] From hence we must remove a little, and follow the river Witham, as our best direction to Lincoln, the Metropolis of this County. Not far from the head of it, [...]y- [...]. on the west-side lyes Boothby-pannel, upon which the great Dr. Sanderson (who was for some years Rector there) entail'd a lasting name and honour; as he did afterwards upon the Regius-Professor's Chair at Oxford, and the See of Lincoln. The reason of the name we learn fromLel. MS. [...]. Leland, who tells us there was one Boutheby of very ancient time, the Heir-general of whom was married to Paynelle.
[r] Out of Kesteven, we are carry'd into the third part of the division, Lindsey; where, upon the banks of the river Trent, [...]ey. we meet with Torksey, in which town the ancient Charter is still preserv'd; and it enjoys thereby the privilege of a toll from strangers who bring cattel or goods that way; as also of a Fair on Monday in Whitsun-week, much resorted to by young folks, and other country-people in those parts. Sheringham seems to me to strain too hard, when he endeavours to make the name of this place favour his conjecture, grounded upon Mela, that the Turks were the same nation with the Tyrsagetae and rest of the Goths, f [...]om whom our Ancestors were descended. Unless it were countenanc'd by some peculiar passage in history, there is nothing but the bare similitude of names, and that too can contribute nothing, if Mr. Somner's opinion may be taken in the case, who derives it from troge, a cockboat, and ige an Island.
[s] Two miles west from Lincoln is Skellingthorp, Skellingthorpe. the Lordship whereof (worth about 520 l. per annum) was bequeath'd to Christ's Hospital in London by the Lord of it Henry Stone, who dy'd June 26. 1693. This Gentleman gave also along with it his whole personal estate (worth four thousand pound) to the same pious use.
[t] From hence the Foss-dike leads us South-east to Lincoln, Lincoln. call'd (as Mr. Camden observes) by the Norman-writers Nichol; and Mr. Thomas Twyne in his Breviary of Britain, fol. 24. b. says, he has observ'd the same many times in ancient Charters, and Records of the Earls thereof, written in the French-tongue. And even as low as Edward the fourth's time, William Caxton, in his Chronicle entitl'd Fructus temporum, pag. 141. and 295. calls it Nichol. I know none who remove the Roman Lindum from hence, except Talbot, who carries it to Lenton in Nottinghamshire; which opinion we have consider'd in its proper place.Itinerar. p. 21. Leland tells us, he heard say, that the lower part of Lincoln-town was all marish, and won by policy, and inhabited for the commodity of the water è regione: that this part of the town is call'd Wikerford, and in it are 11 Parochial-Churches, besides which he saw one in ruins. The White-Fryers were on the west-side of the High-street in Wikerford. Pag. 22▪ That beyond old Lincoln, much money is found in the North-fields. What Mr. Camden has concerning the decay of this town, wherein he says of 50 Churches are scarce left 18, he seems to have borrow'd from a hint of Leland's; and if he had no other authority, it seems to be deliver'd in terms too positive and general. For Leland mentions it very tenderly, and only says,Ibid. There goeth a common fame, that there were once 52 Parish-Churches in Lincoln-city and the suburbs of it.
At a little distance from Lincoln is Nocton, Nocton. formerly a Religious-house, where is a very magnificent seat, lately built by Sir William Ellys Baronet.
At Wragby, Wragby. eight miles East of Lincoln, the wife of one Charles Gays, An. Dom. 1676. brought forth a male-child with two heads, which liv'd some hours. The mother of the child is still living, and keeps an Inn in the town; and the matter of fact can be attested by at least 100 people, who saw it.
[u] Upon the little river Bane stands Horn-castle, Horn-castle which evidently appears to have been a Camp or Station of the Romans; as from the Castle which is Roman work, so also from the Roman coins, several whereof were found therein the time of Charles the first, and some they meet with at this day (tho' not so commonly) in the field adjoyning. The compass of the Castle was about 20 Acres, which is yet plainly discernable by the foundation of the whole, and some part of the wall still standing. It is a Seigniory or Soke of 13 Lordships, and was given by King Richard the second, to the Bishop of Carlisle and his Successors, for his habitation and maintenance; when by the frequent incursions of the Scots, he was driven from his castle of Rose in Cumberland, and spoil'd of his revenues.
Three miles South-east from hence is Winceby, Winceby. where (Octob. 5. 1643.) was a battel fought between the King and Parliament; the forces of the first commanded by Colonel Henderson and the Lord Widdrington, those of the latter by Colonel Cromwell. The fight scarce lasted an hour, and the victory fell to the Parliament.
[w] At the meeting of the rivers Bane and Witham is Tatteshall, Totteshall. where in the front of the castle not long since, were to be seen the Arms of the Cromwells, the ancient Lords of it. It afterwards came to be one of the seats of the Clintons Earls of Lincoln, besides another at Sempringham, which Mr. Camden mentions in this County.
[x] At a little distance from Bullingbrook is Eresby, Eresby. which gives the title of Baron to the Earl of Lindsey, the third division of this County. The first who enjoy'd this title o [...] Earl was Robert Lord Willoughby of Eresby, crea [...] Nov. 22. in the second year of King [Page] Charles 1. He was son to that Peregrine Berty, whom Catharine Baroness of Willoughby and Dutchess of Suffolk bore to Richard Berty, while they made their escape into foreign parts in Queen Mary's persecution. He was call d Peregrine, eo quod in terra peregrina pro consolatione exilii sui piis parentibus à Domino donatus sit, as the publick Register of Wesel in the Dutchy of Cleve (where he was born) expresses it. At the request of the honourable Mr. Charles Berty (Envoy extraordinary to the Electors and other Princes of Germany) in his passage through that City, the Burgomasters, Aldermen, and Counsellors, took a copy of the evidences of his birth and Christening as they found it in their Register, and presented it to him under the common seal of the City. This Robert the first Earl, Lord High Chamberlain of England, was succeeded by his son and heir Mountague, upon the restoration of Charles 2. made Knight of the Garter, who dying in the year 1666. was succeeded by Robert his eldest son.
[y] A little above Bullingbroke stands Hareby, Hareby. eminent for the death of Queen Eleanor, wife to King Edward 1. who being conveyed from thence to Westminster, had a great many Crosses erected to her memory in several noted places. This is the more observable, because our Chronicles tell us she dy'd at a place call'd Hardby, without giving us any hints where it stands.
[z] Hard by is Bollingbroke, Bollingbroke. whereof Oliver Lord St. John of Bletso was created Earl 22 Jac. 1. Dec. 28. and was succeeded by his grandchild Oliver St. John by Pawlet his second son, Oliver Lord St. John the eldest being slain at Edge-hill fight. At present the place gives the title of Earl to the right honourable Pawlet St. John.
[aa] More towards the sea, lies Boston, Boston. where Mr. John Fox, Author of the Acts and Monuments, was born.
[bb] At Grimesby Grimesby. were formerly three Religious-houses, i.e. one Nunnery, and two Monasteries: and not far from the same coast, between Salflet-haven and Louth, is Salfletby, memorable for its late Minister, Mr. John Watson, who was incumbent 74 years; during which time (as he himself reported it) he buried the inhabitants three times over, save three or four persons. He had by one wife fourteen sons and three daughters, the youngest now past the fiftieth year of his age. In all this time he was a constant industrious Preacher, except during his imprisonment for 40 weeks in Lincoln Gaol, by Cromwell, who put a Militia-Drummer in his place. Since the present reign he was also suspended ab officio, but, considering his great age, not à beneficio. He dy'd in Aug. 1693. aged 102.
[cc] Turning to the west towards the river Trent, we meet with Osgodby, Osgodby. otherwise call'd Ostegobby and Osgoteby, where Mr. Camden places the seat of St. Medardo, and deduces it to the family of Ashcough. But Mr. Dugdale has assur'd us that the whole is a manifest mistake, that family belonging to another Osgodby in the same County, about 30 miles south of this.
[dd] Directly towards Lincoln, is Stow, Stow. the Church whereof is a large building in the form of a cross, and very ancient. It was founded by Eadnoth a Bishop of Dorchester in Oxfordshire, before the See was remov'd to Lincoln. It was rebuilt by Remigius the first Bishop of Lincoln; and in Stow-park, a little mile from the Church, there was an Abby re-edified by the same Bishop; but the Monks were soon remov'd from it by Robert Bloett the second Bishop of Lincoln, to the Abbey of Eynsham near Oxford. It was afterwards made a Bishop's seat, but there is little of the ancient ruins now to be seen. In the parish of Stow, is a village call'd Stretton, from the old causey running that way, as if one should say the Street-town: and in a field belonging to that place, are a great many Ophites, or stones roll'd up like serpents.
[ee] From hence we come to Gainesburrow, Gainesborrow. wherein (asItin. p. 24. Leland says) upon the south part of the town, is an old chapel of stone, in which 'tis reported by the inhabitants, that many Danes were bury'd; that there is also the remains of another chapel of wood on the side of Trent, now quite demolish'd. At present, the right honourable Baptist Noel has his title of Earl from this place.
A little above Gainesburrow, through the end of a Country town call'd Marton, Marton. Mr. Foxcroft has observ'd that a Roman way goes into this County. It comes from Danum, i.e. Doncaster, to Agelocum, now Littleburrow, from whence it goes to Lindum, Lincoln. 'Tis a great road for pack-horses, which travel from the west of Yorkshire to Lincoln, Lyn, and Norwich. The ferry upon the river Trent is one side in Nottinghamshire, and the other in Lincolnshire. A quarter of a mile from Marton abovemention'd, there are yet remaining two or three considerable pieces of Roman pavement or Causeway, which may be easily observ'd by travellers of ordinary curiosity.
[ff] In this part of the County it is, that Mr. Camden has in general settl'd the ancient Sidnacester, but without determining it to any particular place. If one should take the liberty of a conjecture, and settle it at Stow, there would not want several probabilities to warrant it. That the See now at Lincoln, was once at Dorchester near Oxford, is agreed upon by all: that likewise Eadhed was made Bishop of Sidnacester in the year 678. and that he was succeeded by several other Bishops under the same title, is as plain. But after Eadulf's death, when it had been vacant about 80 years, it was by Leofwin united to Dorchester, as that of Leicester had been before it. The sixth from Leofwin was Eadnoth, who (as the intermediate Bishops had done) enjoy'd the title of Dorchester, and under that of Sidnacester and Leicester. This was that Eadnoth who built the Church of our Lady in Stow, and died An. 1050. Now, where can we imagine a Bishop of Sidnacester should so probably build a Church as at Sidnacester? And whence would he sooner take his pattern or platform than from his own Cathedral of Dorchester? But it appears by the enquiries of an ingenious Gentleman in those parts, that there is a very near resemblance between the two Churches of Dorchester and Stow. And if they have been since rebuilt, we may probably conclude that the same form notwithstanding was still kept. The See of Legecester or Leicester is concluded to have been where St. Margaret's now stands; and as that is a Peculiar, a Prebend, and (I think) an Archdeaconry; so is Stow too. Besides, the present Privileges of this place are greater than any hereabouts, except Lincoln; and they have formerly exceeded even that. For that it was famous before Lincoln was a Bishop's See, is beyond dispute; and 'tis a common notion in those parts, both of learned and unlearned, that Stow was anciently the mother-Church to Lincoln. The steeple of the Church (tho' large) has been much greater than it is: and Alfrick Puttock Archbishop of York An. 1023. when he gave two great Bells to Beverley-steeple which he had built, and two others of the same mold to Southwell; bestow'd two upon this Stow. Here is likewise a place call'd yet by the name of Gallow-dale, suppos'd to have been the place of execution for malefactors; which (among other marks of antiquity) tho' it have no relation to the affairs of the Church, is yet a testimony to the eminence of the place. But there is one thing still lies in our way: for in theAngl [...] Sacra, P [...] 2. p. 411 Lives of the Bishops of Lincoln, written by Giraldus, we meet with these words: Remigius sedem suam Cathedralem à loco nimis incongruo & obscuro ad urbem praeclaram & locum competentem sc. Lincolniam transferre curavit: nec non & hoc quoque, quod Lyndeseiam totam ab Humbro marino ad Withemam fluvium qui Lincolniam permeat & penetrat per tanta terrarum spatia, contra adversarium tantum tamque potentem, Metropolitanum sc. Eboracensem, innata quadam prudentiâ praeditus, & gratia quoque desuper & divinitus adjutus, tam provinciae Cantuariensi, quam & Dioecesi Lincolniensi stabiliter aeque potenter adjecit. Now if all Lindsey belong'd to the Archbishop of York till Remigius's time, (who liv'd since the Conquest,) the old Sidnacester, united afterwards to Dorchester, perhaps can hardly be plac'd reasonably within the compass of that Division.
Continuation of the EARLS.
After Henry Fiennes son of Edward Lord High Admiral of England, the title of Earl of Lincoln was successively enjoy'd by Thomas and Theophilus of the same name. The latter of these was succeeded by Edward Lord Clinton, his grandchild by his eldest son Edward. At present the right honourable Henry Clinton is in possession of this title.
More rare Plants growing wild in Lincolnshire.
Atriplex maritima, Halimus dicta, humilis erecta, semine folliculis membranaceis bivalvibus, in latitudinem expansis & utrinque recurvis, longo pediculo insidentibus clauso. Near Sairbeck, a village about a mile distant from Boston, plentifully. Dr. Plukenet.
Alsine Polygonoides tenuifolia, flosculis ad longitudinem caulis velut in spicam dispositis. Polygonum angustissimo gramineo folio erectum. Bot. Monsp. Chickweed-Knottgrass with very narrow leaves, and flowers set along the stalks as it were in spikes.
Carum vulgare Park. Caraways. In the marshes and fenny grounds plentifully.
Cannabis spuria flore amplo, labio purpureo. Fair-flower'd Nettle-Hemp. About Spalding plentifully.
Cochlearia major rotundifolia. Garden Scurvy-grass. In the marshes in Holland, and in many other places near the sea-side.
Oenanthe Staphylini folio aliquatenus accedens J. B. In the marsh ditches and slow streams of water in the parish of Quaplod near Spalding.
Lapathum folio acuto, flore aureo C. B. Golden Dock. About Crowland, and in other places of the Fens.
Pneumonanthe Ger. Gentianella Autumnalis Pneumonanthe dicta Park. Gentiana palustris angustifolia C. B. Gentianae species, Calathina quibusdam radice perpetua seu palustris. J. B. Marsh Gentian or Calathian Violet. In a Park at Tattershall, and on the heathy grounds thereabout: also on a heath a little beyond Wrauby in the way to Hull.
Rhamnus Salicis folio angusto, fructu flavescente C. B. Secundus Clusii Ger. emac. primus Dioscoridis Lobelio sive litoralis Park. Rhamnus vel Oleaster Germanicus J. B. Sallow-thorn. On the sea-banks on Lindsey coast, plentifully.
NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
THE County of Nottingham borders upon that of Lincoln on the west, but is of much less extent, call'd by the Saxonsa Snottengaham-rcyne, by us Nottinghamshire: bounded on the north by Yorkshire, on the west by Derbyshire, and in some parts by Yorkshire; and on the south by the County of Leicester. The south and east parts are enrich'd by that most noble river the Trent, and the rivulets which run into it. The west part is entirely took up with the forest of Shirwood, which is very large. This part, because it is sandy, the inhabitants call the Sand; the other, because it is clayish, they call the Clay; and thus have they divided their County into these two parts [a].
The Trent, The Trent. in Saxon Tneonta (which some Antiquaries of less note have call'd in Latin Triginta, from its affinity with that French word which is used to signifie this number) after it has run a long way1, where it first enters into this County, passes by Steanford, Steanford. where there are manyb remains of Antiquity yet extant, and many Roman Coyns found, as I am informed; and then by Clifton, Clifton. which has given both a seat and name to the ancient family of the Cliftons 2. Then it receives the little river Lin River Lin. from the west, which rising near Newsted, i.e. a new place, where formerly King Hen. 2. built a small Monastery now the seat of the Byrons, Byrons. an ancient family, descended from Ralph de Buron, who in the beginning of the Norman times flourish'd in great state both in this County and Lancashire: it runs near Wollaton, Wollaton. where in this age Sir Francis Willoughby Kt, out of ostentation to show his riches, built at vast charges a very stately house, both for splendid appearance and the curious workmanship of it. After this it washes Lenton, Lenton. formerly famous for a Monastery, built in honour of the Holy Trinity by William Peverel, the natural son of King William the Conquerour; at present, only for the throng Fairs there. Where, on the other side, almost at the confluence of the Lin and Trent, and upon the side of a hill, stands Nottingham, Nottingham. which has given name to this County, and is the chief town in it; the word being nothing but a soft contraction of Snottenga-ham. For so the Saxons call'd it from the caves and passages under ground which the Ancients for their retreat and habitation mined under these steep rocks in the south part, toward the little river Lin. Hence Asser renders the Saxon word Snottengaham Speluncarum domum in Latin, and in British it isc Tui ogo bauc, which signifies the very same, namely, a house of dens. In respect of situation, the town is very pleasant: there lie on this side toward the river very large meadows; on the other, hills of easie and gentle ascent: it is also plentifully provided with all the necessaries of life. On this side, Shirewood supplies them with great store of wood for fire, (tho' many burn pit-coal, the smell whereof is offensive,) on the other the Trent serves them with fish very plentifully. Hence this its barbarous verse,
To wind up all; by its bigness, building, three neat Churches, an incomparable fine market-place, and a very strong castle, the town is really beautiful. 868 The Castle stands on the west side of the city, upon an exceeding steep rock; in which very spot that tower is believ'd to have been, which the Danes relying upon, held out against the siege of Aethered and Alfred, till without effecting any thing they rose andVasa conclamarint. retir'd. For when the Danes had got this castle,d Burthred King of the Mercians, (as Asser sayse) and the Mercians sent messengers to Aethered King of the West-Saxons, and to Alfred his brother, humbly intreating that they would aid them; so that they might engage the foresaid army. This request they easily obtain'd. For the two brothers, having drawn together a great army from all parts, with as much dispatch as they had promis'd, enter'd Mercia, and march'd as far as Snottenga-ham, unanimously desiring to fight them. But when the Pagans refus'd to give them battel, securing themselves in the castle, and the Christians were not able to batter down the walls of the castle, a peace was concluded between the Mercians and the Pagans, and the two brothers return'd home with their forces. Afterwards Edward the Elder built the village Bridgesford Bridgesford over against it, and rais'd a wall (which is now fallen) quite round the city. The only remains extant of it, are on the west part. A few years after this, namely, in Edward the Confessor's time, (as it is in Domesday) there were reckon'd 173 Burgesses in it, and De duobus Monetartis. from the two Mints there was paid forty shillings to the [Page 483-484] King. Moreover, the water of Trent and the Foss dike, and the way towards York were all lookt after, that if any one hinder'd ships from passing, Emendare habuit. he might he amerc'd four pounds. As for the castle which now stands there, both the founder and the bigness of it make it remarkable. For William the Norman built it to awe the English [b]: by nature and art together it was so strong (as William of Newburrow tells us) "That it seem'd invincible by any thing but famine, provided it had but a sufficient garrison in it". Afterwards, Edward the fourth rebuilt it at great charge, and adorn'd it with curious buildings, to which Richard the third also made some additions. Nor has it ever in any revolution undergone the common fate of great castles; for it was never taken by down-right force. Once only it was besieg'd (and that in vain) by Henry of Anjou; at which time the garrison burnt down all the buildings about it.1175. Rog. Hoveden, p. 307. It was once also taken by surprize by Robert Count de Ferrariis in the Barons war, who depriv'd the citizens of all they had. Those of this castle tell many stories of David King of Scotland, a prisoner here, and of Roger Mortimer Earl of March, taken by means of a passage under ground, and afterwards hang'd, for betraying his Country to the Scots for money, and for other mischiefs, out of an extravagant and vast imagination design'd by him. In the first court of this castle we still go down a great many steps with candle-light into a vault under-ground, and rooms cut and made out of the very stone; in the walls whereof the story of Christ's passion and other things are engraven, by David the second King of Scotland, as they say, who was kept prisoner there. In the upper part of the castle which stands very high upon the rock, I likewise went down many stairs into another vault under-ground; which they call Mortimer's-hole, Mortimer's Hole. because Roger Mortimer absconded in it, being afraid of himself, out of a consciousness of his own guilt. As for position, this place is 53 degrees in Latitude, and 22 degrees 14 minutes in Longitude [c].
From hence the Trent runs gently by Holme, nam'd from the Lords Holme Pierpount, Pierpount. a noble and ancient family, of whom Robert de Petrae Ponte or Pierpount was summon'd to sit among the Barons in Parliament by Edward the third. Then tof Shelford 3,The Barony of Shelford. the seat of the famous family of the Stanhops, Knights [d], whose state and grandeur in these parts is great, and their name eminent4. But it was formerly the Barony of Ralph Hanselin, by whose daughters it came to the Bardolphs and Everinghams. Hence it goes to Stoke Stoke. a small village; but remarkable for no small slaughter:Battel of Stoke 1447. here John De la pole, Earl of Lincoln, who was design'd for the Crown by Richard the third, when he saw himself excluded from the throne by Henry the seventh, rebelliously fought for a counterfeit Prince against his lawful King, and after a stout defence was cut off with his whole party. Not far from hence5 stands Southwell Southwell. a Collegiate-Church of Prebendaries dedicated to the Virgin Mary; not very splendid I must confess, but strong, ancient, and famous. Paulinus, the first Arch-Bishop of York, built it (as they write) after he had baptiz'd the people of this Country in the river Trent. From that time the Arch-Bishops of York have had a large Palace here, and three Parks adjoyning, well-stor'd with Deer. That this is that city which Bede calls Tio vul-Fingacester, Tio-vul-Fingacester. I the rather believe, because those things which he relates of Paulinus's baptizing in the Trent near Tio-vul-Fingacester, are always said to have been done here, by the private history of this Church [e] Hence from the east, the Snite, a small river, runs into the Trent; which is but shallow, and washes Langer, L [...]nger. famous for its Lords the Tibetots or Tiptofts T [...]p [...]f [...]s. [f], who were afterwards Earls of Worcester; and Wiverton, W [...]t [...] which from Heriz, a famous man in these parts formerly, went by the Bretts and Caltosts to the Chaworths, who take their name from the Cadurci in France,Ch [...] or [...] C [...]a [...] Q [...]. and their pedigree from the Lords de Walchervill.
Now the Trent divides it self6, and runs under Newark, Newa [...]k. a pretty large town, so call'd, as if one should say, A new work, from the new castle, very pleasant and curiously built, (asg Henry of Huntingdon describes it) by Alexander that munificent Bishop of Lincoln; Who (to use the words of an old historian,) being of a very liberal and gentile temper, built this and another castle at vast expence. And because buildings of this nature seem'd less agreeable to the character of a Bishop, to extinguish the envy of them, and to expiate as it were for that offence, he built an equal number of Monasteries, and fill'd them with religious societies. However, the extravagant profuseness of this military Bishop was soon pursu'd with condign punishment. For King Stephen,Vide p [...] who had no better means to establish the sinking state of his kingdom, than by possessing himself of all the fortify'd places, brought the Bishop to that pinch, by imprisonment and famine, that he was forc'd to deliver up into his hands both this castle, and that other at Sleford. 1216 There is no other memorable accident in this place, but that King John ended the tedious course of an uneasie life here7 [g]. From hence the river uniting again flows directly to the northward by many villages, but has nothing remarkable before it comes to Littleborrough, Littleborroug [...] a small town, and so exactly answerable to the name; where, as there is at this day a ferry much us'd, so was there formerly that famous station or abode, which Antoninus twice mentions; variously read, in some copies Agelocum, and in others Segelocum. Agel [...]cu [...] or Segel [...] cum. Formerly I sought for this place in vain hereabouts, but now I verily believe I have found it, both because it stands by the military way, and also because the marks of an old wall are still discernable in the neighbouring field, where many coins of the Roman Emperours are daily found by the plow-men; which are call'd Swines penies Sw [...]nes-penies. by the Country people, because they are oftnest discover'd by the grubbing of the Swine there. They also imagine, according to their poor sense of things, that their forefathers enclos'd this field with a stone-wall, to keep the water from overflowing it in the winter [h].
In the west part of this County (call'd the Sand,) where the Erwash, a small river, runs toward the Trent, we see Strelley Strelley. h, heretofore Strellegh, which hath given a name and seat to the Strellies Knights (commonly call'd Sturly) one of the most ancient and famous families of this County. More inward lyes Shirewood, Shirewoo [...] which some interpret a clear wood, others a famous wood; formerly a close shade, with the boughs of trees so entangl'd in one another, that a single person could hardly walk in the paths of it. At present it is much thinner, yet it still feeds an infinite number of Deer and branchy-headed Staggs; and has some towns in it, whereof Mansfield Mansfeld. is the chief, a very plentiful market; the name of which is made use of for an argument by some8, who assert the Antiquity of the family of Mansfeld in Germany, and that the first Earl of Mansfeld was at the Celebration of the round Table with our Arthur; and that he was born here. Our Kings were formerly wont to retire hither for the sake of hunting, and, that you may have it in the very words of an old Inquisition, Henry Fauconberge held the manour of Cukeney in this County by Serjeanty, for shooing the King's horse when he came to Mansfeld 9. Many small rivers spring out of [Page 485-486] this wood, and run towards the Trent; the chief of them is Idle, [...]dle. upon which near Idleton in the year 616, the great success and fortune of Ethered, a most potent King of the Northumbrians, stopp'd and fail'd him. For whereas he had formerly always fought with great success, here his fortune vary'd, and he was cut off, being defeated by Redwald King of the East Angles, who set Edwin (excluded then and depriv'd of the throne of his Ancestors) over Northumberland. The course of this little river lyes at no great distance from Markham [...]rkham. a small village; but yet it has given name to the Markhams, a family very famous heretofore both for antiquity and virtue10; the greatest ornament of which was J. Markham, who was Lord Chief Justice of England, and temper'd his Judgments with so much equity (as you may read in the Histories of England) that the glory of him will never perish in after agesi. Six miles from hence to the westward stands Workensop, [...] kensop known for its great produce of liquorice, [...]q [...]orice. and famous for the Earl of Shrewsbury's house there, built in this age by George Talbot Earl of Shrewsbury, with magnificence becoming the state of so great an Earl, and yet not to contract envy. To the Talbots it came with a great inheritance from the Lovetofts first Lords of it in the Norman times, by the Furnivals and Nevils. Of these Lovetofts, G. Lovetoft in Henry the first's time built a Monastery here; the ruins of which are still to be seen among very pleasant meadows, on the East-side of the town: but the West-part of the Church is yet remaining with two towers, very fair and beautiful [i]. A little higher upon the same river I saw Blithe, [...]the. a noted market-town, which was fortify'd with a castle (as I was inform'd) by Bulley or Busly, a Nobleman of Norman extract; but at this day, hardly the ruins of it are visible; so destructive is age to every thing. But the little Monastery there was built by Roger Busly and Foulk de Lisieurs, and this is almost the last town of Nottinghamshire to the Northward, unless it be Scroby, [...]roby. a little town belonging to the Arch-Bishop of York, seated in the very edge of it.
William, sirnam'd the Conquerour, Lords and Earls of Nottingham. Lib. M. Linton. Matth. Paris. p. 126. See the Earls of Derby. Matth. Paris. p. 204. Hoveden, p. 373. b. Inq. 6 Ric. 2. made his natural son William Peverell ruler of this County, not by the title of Earl, but Lord of Nottingham; who had a son that dy'd during the life of his father; and he likewise a son of the same name, depriv'd of his estate by Henry the second, for preparing a dose of poyson for Ranulph Earl of Chester. About the same time Robert de Ferrariis, who plunder'd Nottingham, us'd this title in the gift he made to the Church of Tuttesbury, Robert the younger Earl of Nottingham. But afterwards, King Richard the first gave and confirm'd to his brother John the County and Castle of Nottingham, with the whole Honour of Peverell. Long after that, Richard the second honour'd John de Mowbray with this title, who dying young and without issue, his brother Thomas succeeded him; who by Richard the second was created Earl Marshal and Duke of Norfolk; and being banish't immediately after, he begat Thomas Earl Marshal, beheaded by Henry the fourth, and John Mowbray, who (as also his son and grandson) was Duke of Norfolk and Earl of Nottingham. But the issue male of this family failing, and Richard the infant-son of Edward the fourth, Duke of York, having enjoy'd this title among others11 for a small time; Richard the third honour'd William Marquess of Barkley, and Henry the eighth grac'd Henry Fitz-Roy his natural son12, who both dy'd without issue, with this title of Earl of Nottingham. And lately in 1597. Queen Elizabeth solemnly invested Charles Howard, High Admiral of England, (who is descended from the Mowbrays) with this honour, for his service (as the Charter of his creation has it) so stoutly and faithfully perform'd by Sea against the Spaniard in the year 1588. and his taking of Cadiz in the year 1596. he then commanding by Sea, as the Earl of Essex did by Land.
There are 168 Parish-Churches in this County.
ADDITIONS to NOTTINGHAMSHIRE.
THE Antiquities of this County were publish'd An. 1677. by Robert Thoroton, Doctor of Physick, a native of it, with great accuracy and exactness. But keeping close to the descent of families and possessions of estates (in which he has shown a great curiosity) Mr. Camden and he have carry'd on two very different designs. Had he given himself the liberty of making digressions upon British, Roman, and Saxon Antiquities, (as Mr. Burton in his history of Leicestershire has done;) his curiosity must needs have discover'd a great many things of that nature, which might have been of considerable use towards the improvement of Camden. Since then he has confin'd himself to the business of possessions, for those matters I refer the Reader thither, where he may have ample satisfaction; and will go along with our Author in that part of Antiquity which he has principally touch'd upon.
[a] Going out of Leicestershire, the Foss-way Foss-way. (which is the best, if not the only direction for what we principally look after) leads us into the South-part of this County, and carrys us along the East of it into Lincolnshire. And because Mr. Camden has taken no notice of it, the best service that probably can be done here, will be to set down such remains of Antiquity as have been discover'd; and so fill up that breach in the road which is between Leicester and Lincoln.
And first Willoughby on the Wold, Willough [...]y on the Wold. in the Hundred of Ruscliff, just upon the South-edge of this County, may pretend to something of Antiquity. For it lyes near the Foss, and in a field belonging to it are the ruins (as the inhabitants say) of a town call'd Long-Billington, which has been long since demolish'd. Hereabouts the plow-men and shepherds commonly gather up coins of the Romans, in great numbers. And its distance from Caer-lerion, i.e. Leicester, and from Vernometum or Burrough-hill, (being 9 miles from each) adds to the confirmation of it. All which put together, would tempt us to believe that this had been a Roman station.
From hence the Foss passes North-east through the vale of Belvoir, and therein through the field of East-Bridgford, East-Bridgford. or Bridgford on the hill, in which are still the remains of a Roman station near a spring call'd The Old-wark-spring; and the field in Bridgford, in which part of this camp lyes, is call'd to this day Burrowfield. Mr. Foxcroft also, Rector of Wiverby in Leicestershire (to whose diligence the discove [...]y of those places is in a great measure owing) assures me that he has seen a fair silver coin of Vespasian which was found there, and that others are sometimes plough'd up by the inhabitants of that town. What further confirms the conjecture of a station here, is its distance from Willoughby of about 8 miles, and near the same space from Long-Collingham, Long-Collingham. about 3 miles beyond Newark; near which in a large field there is some reason to fix another station. The Foss-road indeed lyes above a mile from it, but it receives authority [Page 487-488] enough from several of Constantine's Coins which have been found there, as well as it's distance from Lincoln (viz. 9 miles) where was another Station.
By this means (if these conjectures may be allow'd any colour of truth, as I see no great objection lies against them) that vast breach between Leicester and Lincoln, along the Fosse, is pretty well piec'd up. From Leicester to Willoughby, 9 miles; from Willoughby to East Bridgford, about 8 miles; from thence to Long-Collingham 9 miles; and from hence to Lincoln, 9 more.
Having follow'd the Fosse thus far toward the North, for the more convenient clearing of this point; we are drawn a little out of our road, and must return to the south part, from whence now the Trent especially must direct our course.
And first we meet with Steanford, Steanford. or Stanford, which, whatever it had in our Author's time, at present shews nothing of Antiquity. It's greatest ornament is a Church lately repair'd and beautify'd at the expence of Thomas Lewes Esquire, the present Patron thereof. It's neighbour Clifton has been the inheritance of a family of that name for above 600 years, as is evident from an Inscription upon a monument in the Chancel.
[b] Next is Nottingham. Nottingham. Mr. Camden expresly says, that William the Conquerour built the Castle there, to keep in order the English: but Dr. Thoroton, who was no doubt a better judge in that matter, is altogether positive that it was built by Peverell He was base son to William the Conquerour; and it appears that he had licence from the King to include 10 acres (ad faciendum pomerium) thereabouts, which after the forest measure contains above 50 Statute acres; and that, it seems, is near the proportion of the old park of Nottingham. Besides, there is no mention of it in Domesday, which was made the year before the Conquerour's death; and therefore 'tis probable his son built it by a commission from him. While it was in the hands of the Earl of Rutland, many of the good buildings were pull'd down, and the iron and other materials sold; yet in the beginning of the Civil wars K. Charles 1. made choice of it as the sittest place for setting up his Royal Standard, about Aug. 2. A. D. 1642. Shortly after, it became a Garison for the Parliament, and in the end of the war, Orders were given to pull it down; but it was not quite demolish'd. Since King Charles 2.'s return, the Duke of Buckingham (whose mother was only daughter and heir of Francis Earl of Rutland) sold it to the Marquiss of New-Castle, afterwards Duke, who in 1674. began to clear the foundations of the old tower, and hath erected a most stately fabrick in the place of part of it. So much for the Castle. What the present condition of the town may be, is beside my business to enquire; only I cannot omit the mention of an Almshouse there for 12 poor people, which was built and endow'd with 100 l. per An. by Henry Hanley Esq
Not far from Nottingham lies Lenton, Lenton. whichBort [...]n Itin. p. 2 [...]4. Mr. Talbot for some reasons was inclin'd to believe the ancient Lindum of Antoninus. I take it for granted, it was the affinity of the two names which first led him to this conjecture, and that drew him to other fancies which might seem in any wise to confirm his opinion. As, that the river which runs through Nottingham into Trent, is at this day call'd Lin or rather Lind; but then Lenton lying at a pretty distance from it, he is forc'd to back it with this groundless imagination, that Lenton might be sometimes part of Nottingham; tho' they be a mile asunder one from the other. What he says in defence of Lenton, why the old town might possibly be there, is very true; that it is a thing frequently observ'd, that famous towns have degenerated into little villages, and that therefore its present meanness is no objection against it: but then it can derive no authority from the river Lin or Lind. Besides, the obscurity of a place is really a prejudice to its antiquity, unless the discovery of camps, coyns, bricks, or some such remains, demonstrate its former eminence. Nothing that he has said in favour of this opinion, taken from distances and such like, is of force enough to draw it from Lincoln.
At a little distance from hence, there stands in a large field a Church with a spire-steeple, call'd Flawford Church, Flawford. the burying-place of Reddington a great Country-town above half a mile west from it. But this having a large Chapel of its own, the Church is the more neglected, and has much rubbish in it. Among it there have been many ancient monuments, no doubt of great note formerly. Some considerable ones are yet remaining both in the chancel and south-isle; part whereof seem to imply that the persons to whom they belong have been engag'd in the Holy War. North-east from whence is Aslakton, famous for the birth of Thomas Cranmer, Archbishop of Canterbury.
[d] A little more northward stands Shelford, Shelford. mention'd by Mr. Camden as the seat of the Stanhops. In the Civil wars it was a garison for the King, and commanded by Colonel Philip Stanhope, a younger son to Philip the first Earl of Chesterfield; which being taken by storm, he and many of his souldiers were therein slain, and the house afterwards burnt.
[e] Directly towards the north, upon the westside of the river, is Southwell, Southwell. where I cannot but take notice of an inscription upon a pillar in that Church, both because I do not observe it set down by Dr. Thoroton, and also because it contains a [...]sort of historical account of that place.
From this town the family of the Southwells took their name, and were anciently seated here. For mention is made in the [...] Thorot. [...]ing- [...]sh [...]e. Records, of Sir Simon Southwell under Hen. 3. of Sir John under Edw. 1. and of several others, down to Hen. 6. when they spread themselves into Norfolk and Suffolk. In the reign of Charles 2. Sir Robert of that name went into Glocestershire, where he is now seated at Kings-weston.
[f] The next place is Langer, [...]nger. which Camden mentions, as eminent for the Lords of it, the Tibetots; where we are to observe, that this name has had no relation to that place since the time of Edw. 3. For in the 46. year of his reign, Robert, the last of the Tibetots, dying without heir-male; the custody of all his lands, and the care of his three daughters, were committed to Richard le Scrope; and he marrying Margaret, the eldest, to his son Roger, brought that seat into the name of the Lords Scropes, wherein it continu'd down to Emanuel, who was created Earl of Sunderland, 3 Car. 1. But he having no issue by his wife Elizabeth, that and the rest of his estate was settl'd upon his natural issue (three daughters;) and Annabella, the third of them (to whose share this manour fell in the division) marrying John Howe, second son of Sir John Howe of Compton in Glocestershire, brought it into that name.
On the west-side of Trent, not far from the river Idle, stands Tuxford, [...]ford. where Charles Read Esquire built a curious Free-school, and endow'd it with 50 l. per an. The like he did at Corby in Lincolnshire, and Drax in Yorkshire; to which last he added a hospital, and endow'd that also with 50 l. per an.
[h] Returning to the course of the river, we are led to Littleborrough, [...]lebor [...]gh. which Camden tells us, upon second thoughts, he's fully satisfied is Antoninus's Agelocum, [...]locum. [...]giacum. or Segelocum. The place at which he says he formerly sought it, appears from his edition of 1594. to have been Idleton, seated upon the bank of the river Idle; to which he was induc'd partly by its distance from Lindum, and partly because he imagin'd it might be an easie slip of the Librarian to write Agelocum for Adelocum, which latter is not unlike the present name of it. Talbot is for Aulerton in Sherwood, and Fulk (contrary to Antoninus, who makes it distant from Lindum 14 miles at least) for Agle, almost six miles from that place. Dr. Thoroton seems inclin'd to reduce it to the bank of the river Idle, where Eaton standing, upon that account may as well be call'd Idleton; and Id or Yd in the British signifying corn, as Ydlan denotes a granary, there may seem to be some affinity between that and Segelocum, as if it were a place of corn. But then it is scarce fair to bring it to Idleton upon the likeness in sound with Adelocum; and afterwards to settle it there upon a nearness in signification to Segelocum; one of which readings must be false, and by consequence not both to be made use of as true, to confirm the same thing. Upon the whole, Mr. Burton approves of our Author's conjecture; and to reconcile Agelocum and Segelocum, has ingeniously rank'd these two amongst the words, to which the Romans sometimes prefix'd an S or Sibilus, and sometimes omitted it. So (says he) they call d the Alpes, which in Lycophron's Cassandra we find written [...]: and they who are call'd [...] Insulae by Dionysius the Periegetes, the same in Strabo are [...]; lying in the British Sea. Salamantica of Spain is call'd by Polybius [...], and Caesar's Suessiones, in Ptolemy are [...]. To add one common Noun out of Dioscorides, what in Virgil's Eclogues is Saliunca, in him is [...]: or rather take the whole place out of him. [...].
[i] On the north-west side of this County, about a mile and a half from Workensop, is Welbeck-Abbey, Welbeck-Abbey. now a very noble building, seated in the lowest part of a fine park surrounded with trees of excellent timber; and was the seat of William and Henry late Dukes of New-Castle.
And about 6 miles east from hence, stood the Abbey of Rughford; Rughford-Abbey. now the noble and pleasant seat of George Marquiss of Hallifax.
Continuation of the EARLS.
Charles Howard (mention'd by our Author) dying An. 1624. was succeeded by his second son Charles; William the elder dying before him without issue-male. This Charles was succeeded by a son of his own name, who was likewise second son, James the elder dying unmarry'd. At present the title is enjoy'd by the right honourable Daniel Finch, late Secretary of State.
More rare Plants growing wild in Nottinghamshire.
Caryophyllus minor repens nostras. An Betonica coronaria, sive caryophyllata repens rubra J. B. Purple creeping mountain Pink. By the roads side on the sandy hill you ascend going from Lenton to Nottingham, plentifully; and in other sandy grounds in this County.
Gramen tremulum medium elatius, albis glumis non descriptum. Said to grow in a hollow lane between Peasely and Mansfield by P. B. I have not seen this sort of grass my self, nor do I much rely on the authority of this book: only I propose it to be searched out by the curious.
Glycyrrhiza vulgaris Ger. emac. Common English Liquorice. It is planted and cultivated for sale at Worksop in this County: which Camden also takes notice of.
Lychnis sylvestris alba nona Clus [...]i Ger. emac. montana viscosa alba latifolia C. B. Sylv. alba sive Ocimoides minus album Park. Polemonium petraeum Gesneri J. B. White wild Catchfly. On the walls of Nottingham castle, and on the grounds thereabout.
Verbascum pulverulentum flore luteo parvo J. B. Hoary Mullein with small flowers. About Wollerton-hall, the seat of my honoured friend Sir Thomas Willughby Baronet.
DERBYSHIRE.
ON the West of Nottinghamshire lies the County of Derby, in Saxon Deorbi-scyre, commonly Derbyshire, which is bounded on the south by Leicestershire, on the west by Staffordshire, on the north by Yorkshire; in the form (as it were) of a triangle, but not equilateral. For from the south point of it, where 'tis hardly six miles broad, it grows so wide on both sides, that towards the north, it is about thirty miles in latitude: It is divided into two parts by the course of the river Derwent thro' the middle of it, which rising in the north edge of it, flows with its black waters (so colour'd by the soil it runs thro') southward to the Trent: For the Trent crosses through the south point I did but now mention. The east and south parts are well cultivated, pretty fruitful, and have many parks in them. The west part beyond the Derwent, call'd Peake, is altogether rocky, rough, mountainous, and consequently barren; yet rich in lead, iron, and coal, and pretty convenient for feeding sheep.
The first thing we meet with remarkable in the South corner is Greisely-castle,Greisly-Castle. a meer ruin, which with the little-Monastery of St. George there, was formerly built by the Lords Greisleys, The family of the Greisleys. who derive their pedigree from William son of Nigell, sirnam'd de Greiseley, and have continu'd flourishing, from the time of the Norman Conquest to this very day, in great honour; which they did not a little encrease long ago by marrying the daughter and heir of that ancient family De Gasteneys. Upon the river Dove, which [Page 491-492] severs this County from Staffordshire till such time as it runs into the Trent, there is nothing to be seen but Country-villages, and Ashburne a market-town, where the family of the Cockains have long flourish'd; and Norbury, where that noble and particulary ancient family the Fitz-Herberts have long liv'd, of whom was Anthony Fitz-Herbert, highly deserving for his great knowledge of the Common-Law. Not much distant from this place stands Shirley, the old estate of that famous family the Shirleys, The family of the Shirleys. descended from one Fulcher; and besides the antiquity of their family, much honour'd and enrich'd by marriages with the heirs of the Breoses, Bassets of Brailesford, Stantons, Lovetts, &c. Here are many places round about which have given both name and seat to famous families; namely Longford, Bradburne, Kniveton, from whence the Knivetons of Marcaston and Bradley, of whom is S. Lous Kniveton, to whose study and diligence I am much indebted; also Keidelston, where the Cursons, as they likewise do at Croxton, dwell1; Radburne, where John Chandos Kt. to whom this place belongs, laid the foundation of a great house; from whom by a daughter this estate hereditarily descended to the Poles, who live here at this day. But I will leave these particulars to one who designs to give us a compleat description of this County.
Upon the Trent where it receives the Dove, stands Repandunum, (so our Historians call it,) but the Saxons name ita Hrepandun, and we at this day Repton; Repton. which from a large town is now dwindl'd into a small village. For heretofore it was very famous, both for the burial of Aethelbald that excellent King of the Mercians, (who lost his life by the treachery of his own subjects,) and the other Mercian Kings; and also for the misfortune ofb Burthred King Burthred. the last King of the Mercians, who after a reign of 20 years (continu'd by the precarious means of solicitation and bribery) was here dethron'd by the Danes; or rather forc'd from the pompous misery of reigning; which may shew us how weak and slippery those high places are, that are barely held and supported by mony [a]. After this, not far from the Trent stands Melborn; Melborn. a castle of the King's now decaying, where John Duke of Bourbon, taken prisoner in the battel of Agincourt, was kept nineteen years in custody of Nicholas Montgomery the younger. Scarce five miles from hence, to the Northward, lies the course of the river Derwent, which (as I already observ'd) rising from Peak-hills in the North-border of this County, flows for about thirty miles (sometimes rough and dash'd by a stony passage, sometimes gliding through green meadows) almost in a streight line to the South. Yet in all this long course there is nothing entertaining upon it, besides Chattesworth, Chattesworth. a house really large, neat, and admirable; which was begun by Sir William Candish or Cavendish Kt. descended from that noble and ancient family de Gernon in Suffolk, and lately finish'd at great expence by his wife Elizabeth, a most famous Lady, at present Countess of Shrewsbury.
Now where the Derwent turns its course to the eastward, and passes by Little-Chester, Little-Chester. i.e. a little city, where old Roman coins are often dugg up, stands Derby, Derby. in Saxon Northƿorthig, and in Danish (as that ancient writer Ethelwerd tells us) Deoraby, the chief town of this Shire, which derives its name from the Derwent upon which it stands, and gives it to this County. The town is neat, pretty large and well inhabited; on the east part of it the river Derwent runs very sweetly with a full and brisk stream under a fair stone bridge, upon which stands a neatc Chapel (now neglected) formerly built by our pious Ancestors. The South-part of the town is cross'd by a little clear river which they call Mertenbroke. It has five Churches in it; the greatest of them, dedicated to All-Saints, has a steeple particularly famous both for height and workmanship. Here the Countess of Shrewsbury before-mention'd, distrusting to the affection of her heirs, providently built her self a Sepulchre, and piously founded an Hospital just by, for the maintenance of 12 poor people, namely, 8 men and four women. This place was formerly memorable for being a harbour to the plundering Danes, till Ethelfleda, that victorious Governess of the Mercians, by surprize took it, and put them to the sword. In Edward the Confessor's time (as it is in Domesday) there were 143 Burgesses in it; which number was so much lessen'd, that in William the first's reign, there were only 100 remaining. These at the feast of S. Martin paid twelve * trabes of corn to the King. This seem to mean Thra [...] [...] corn. Its reputation at present proceeds from the Assizes for the County held there, and from the excellent good Ale brew'd in it;The beer ca [...]l'd Cu [...] mi in D [...] s [...]arid [...]s, in E [...] Al [...], f [...]ea [...] D [...]sh word O [...] a word deriv'd from the Danish Oel, and not from Alica, as Ruellius says. The British express'd it by the old word Kwrw, for which Curmi is falsly read in Dioscorides, when he says that the Britanni and the Hiberi (perhaps he means Hiberni) drank Curmi, a liquor made of barley, instead of wine. For this is our Barley-wine, which Julian the Apostate ingeniously calls, in an Epigram of his, [...], i.e. Spicigenam Bromon, not Bromium. This is the ancient and peculiar drink of the English and the Britains, very wholesom; notwithstanding Henry of Auraunches the Norman, Poet-laureat to King Henry the third, plays upon it smartly in these verses;
However,Turn [...]b [...] Wine. the most learned man in France does not question but men that drink this liquor, if they avoid excess, will live longer than if they drank wine; and that this is the cause, why some among us that drink ale live to the age of an hundred years. Yet Asclepiades in Plutarch ascribes this longevity to the coldness of the climate which preserves the natural heat of our bodies, when he tells us of the Britains living 120 years.
However, the wealth of this town does in a great measure depend upon a certain kind of retail-trade, which is to buy corn and sell it again to the highland countries; for the town consists wholly in a manner of these sort of Merchants [b].
Not far distant from hence the course of the river Derwent lyes through that place where Ralph de Montjoy The Bar [...] Montjoy. had lands in Edward the first's reign; and then it runs by Elwaston, where was born Walter Blunt, who was rais'd by Edward the fourth to the dignity of Baron of Montjoy 2; whose posterity have equall'd the glory of their descent and family by the ornaments of learning; and particularly above the rest, Charles now Earl of Devonshire, Baron of Montjoy, Lord-deputy of Ireland, and Knight of the Garter, so eminent for his virtue and learning, that no one is preferable, and but few comparable to him in those respects. Below this place, the Derwent runs into the Trent, which soon after receives Erewash, the boundary between this and Nottinghamshire, in this part. Upon this stands Riseley which belongs to the Willoughbys, of whom as I have heard, was that Sir Hugh Willoughby Kt. who in discovering the frozen Sea near Wardhous in Scandia, was starv'd to death, 1553 with his whole company. Near this too stands Sandiacre, or, as others would have it, Sainct Diacre, the seat of that noble family the Greys of Sandiacre, Grey of Sandia [...] whose estate came to Edward Hilary in right of his wife; his [Page 493-494] son took the name of Grey; one of whose daughters and heirs some few years after was marry'd to Sir John Leak Kt. the other to John Welsh.
On the East-side there succeed in order, to the north, Codenor, C [...]denor- [...]e. heretofore Coutenoure, a castle which did belong to the Barons Greys, stil'd Lords Grey of Codenor, whose estate in the last age came by marriage to the Zouches; for John de la Zouch the second son of William Lord de la Zouch of Haringworth, [...]ons G [...]ey of Codner. marry'd Elizabeth heiress to Henry Grey, the last Lord of Codenor. Winfeld, a very rich manour, where Ralph Lord Cromwel, in the reign of Henry the sixth, built a very stately house, considering that age. Then Alffreton, Alfreton. which is believ'd to have been built by King Alfred, and so denominated from him. It has likewise had its Lords nam'd de Alfreton from it; of whom the second, Robert, the son of Ranulph, built the little Monastery de Bello Capite, commonly Beauchief, in the remotest angle of this County. But a few years after, for default of heirs-male their estate went with two daughters to the family of the Cadurci, or Chaworths, and to the Lathams in the County of Lancaster. Their Arms were two Cheverons (as they call them) Or, The Arms [...]f the Ba [...]on [...] Al [...]n. [...]ely. in a Shield Azure. Which very Coat the Musards 3, Barons of Staveley in this County, bore likewise, but with different colours; who in the reign of Edward the first, ended in N. Musard; for his eldest sister was marry'd to T. de Freschevill, whose posterity remain and flourish here at this day. Higher in the very edge of the County to the east, upon a rough ground, stands Hardwick, [...]ardwick. which has given name to a famous family in this County, from whom is descended Elizabeth the present Countess of Shrewsbury, who has there laid the foundation of two stately houses, almost joyning to one another, which at a great distance appear very fair, by reason of their high situation. At present the title of this Barony is enjoy'd by William Cavendish [...]on Ca [...]dish or [...]d [...]sh. her second son, who was lately advanc'd by King James to the honour of Baron Cavendish of Hardwick. 1605
More inward we see Chesterfield [...]he [...]ter [...]ld. in Scardale, that is, in a dale enclos'd with rocks: d For rocks or crags were call'd Scarrs by the Saxons. Both the ruins of the walls, and this new name do prove it to be of antiquity: but the old name of it is superannuated and quite lost4; and it is only mention'd in authors upon the account of a Battel between Henry the third and the Barons; in which Robert de Ferrariis the last Earl of Derby of this family was taken, and degraded by Act of Parliament: after which he liv'd privately, and his posterity have since flourish'd under the title of Barons only [d]. Next Chesterfield to the west, lyes Walton, [...]alton. which hereditarily descended from the Bretons by Loudham to the Foliambs, a great name in these parts: to the east lyes Sutton, [...]ton. where the Leaks have long flourish'd in the degree and honour of Knighthood.
At some small distance from hence stands Bolsover, an old castle seated upon a rising, which formerly belong'd to the Hastings Lords of Abergevenny by exchange with King Henry the third, who being unwilling that the County of Chester which belong'd to him, should be parcell'd out among distaffs, gave other lands in lieu, here and there, to the sisters of John Scot the last Earl.
The west part on the other side the Derwent, which is nothing but hills and mountains, (for which reason perhaps it was heretofore call'd Peaclond in Saxon, and is call'd Peake [...]e Peak. at this day, for the word signifies eminence with us) is sever'd by the Dove, a very swift and clear river (of which in its proper place) from Staffordshire. This part tho it is rough and craggy in some places, yet5 are there grassy hills and vales in it, which feed many cattel and great flocks of sheep very safely. For there's no danger of wolves [...]lves. now in these places, tho' infested by them heretofore; for the hunting and taking of which, some held lands here at Wormhill, from whence they were call'd Wolvehunt, as is clearly manifest from the records of the Tower.Inq. 2 Ed. 2. It produces so much lead,Lead. that the Chymists (who condemn the planets to the mines, as if they were guilty of some great crime) tell us ridiculously, as well as falsly, that Saturn, Brodaeus. whom they make to preside over Lead, is very gracious to us, because he allows us this metal; but displeas'd with the French, as having deny'd it to them. However, I am of opinion that Pliny spoke of this tract in that passage of his; In Britain, in the very upper crust of the ground, lead is dug up in such plenty, that a law was made on purpose to stint them to a set quantity. Out of these mountains, Lead-stones, as the Miners call them, are daily dug up in great abundance, which upon those hills expos'd to the West-wind near Creach and Workesworth, (taking its name from the Lead-works) at certain times when that wind begins to blow, (which they find by experience to be the most constant and lasting of all winds) they melt down with great wood fires; and from those canals which they make for it to flow in, they work it up again into masses, which they call Sowes. And not only Lead, but Stibium also, which is call'd Antimony Antimony. in the shops, is found here in distinct veins; us'd formerly in Greece by the women to colour their eye-brows, upon which account the Poet Ion calls it [...]. Mill-stonesMill-stones. are likewise digg'd up here, and Grind-stonesGrind-stones. for sharpning Iron-tools; and sometimes there is found in these mines a kind of white Fluor (for those stones in mines like jewels are call'd Fluores Fluores. by the metal-men) which is in all respects like Crystal.Crystal. Besides this Workesworth, there is nothing here to be met with worth mentioning but Haddon, seated upon the river Wye, for many years the seat of the Vernons, not only an ancient but a very famous family in those parts; insomuch that Sir George Vernon Vernon. Kt. who liv'd in our time, for his magnificence, for his kind reception of all good men, and his great hospitality, gain'd the name of King of Peak among the vulgar. Yet by the daughters and heirs of that man, this brave inheritance was transferr'd to John Mannours, descended from the Earls of Rutland, and to Thomas Stanley the off-spring of the Earls of Derby [e].6
Near this lies Bakewell upon the same river, which makes it self a passage among these hills into Derwent. This was call'd by the Saxonse Baddecanƿell, and Marianus tells us, that Edward the Elder made a burrough of it. Whether or no it takes this name from the Baths there, which the old English call'd Bade and Baden (as the Germans likewise did in their language, from whence Baden in Germany and Buda in Hungary) I cannot tell. This is certain, that at the rise of the river Wye not far from hence, there are nine Springs of hot water, call'd at present Buxton-well, Buxton. which being found by experience very good for the stomach, the nerves, and the whole body, the most honourable George Earl of Shrewsbury, has lately adorn'd them with buildings, and they begin to be frequented by great numbers of the Nobility and Gentry. About which time, the unfortunate and heroick Princess Mary Queen of Scots took her farewell of Buxton in this distich, which is nothing but an alteration of Caesar's verses upon Feltria:
But this is besides my business. That these Baths were anciently known; that Cart-road or Roman Causey call'd Bathgate, which continues seven miles from hence to the little village Burgh, does plainly shew us [f]. Near this Burgh there stands an old castle upon the top of a hill, formerly belonging to the Peverells, [Page 495-496] call'd the Castle in the Peake, and in Latin De alto Pecco, which King Edw. 3.46 Edw. 3. gave with this manour and honour to John Duke of Lancaster his son, after he had restor'd the Earldom of Richmond to the King. Below this there is a den or cave under ground, call'd (if I may be pardon'd the rudeness of the expression) the Devil's Arse, Devils Arse in Peake. very wide and gaping, and having many apartments in it; wherein, Gervasius Tilburiensis, either out of downright ignorance or a lying humour, tells us a shepherd saw a spacious country with small rivers running here and there in it, and vast pools of standing water. Yet from such stories as these, this Hole is look'd upon as one of the prodigies of England. The same sort of fables are likewise told of another Cave in this neighbourhood, call'd Elden-hole, Elden-hole. which is wonderful for nothing but the vast bigness, steepness, and the depth of it [g]. But that winds have their vent here, is a mistake in those that have writ so; nor are those verses of Necham's concerning the miracles of England, applicable to either of these Caves:
But all that's remarkable in this high and rough little country, a certain person has endeavour'd to comprise in thesef four verses:
Those of the Peverels, who, as I have said before, were Lords of Nottingham,Lords a [...] Earls of Derby. are also reported to have been Lords of Derby. Afterwards King Rich. 1. gave and confirm'd to his brother John, Simeon Dunch [...] sis. Horeden. Mat. Par. 204. the County and Castle of Nottingham, Lancaster, Derby, &c. with the Honours belonging to them, and the Honour also of Peverel. After him, those of the family of the Ferrars (as for as I can gather from the Registers of Tutbury, Merivall, and Burton Monasteries) were Earls; William de Ferrariis born of the daughter and heir of Peverel, whom King John (as it is in an ancient CharterAn ancie [...] Charter, 1 Joan.)Cinrit, &c. created Earl of Derby with his own hands: William his son8; and Robert the son of this William, who in the Civil wars was so stripp'd of this dignity, that none of his posterity, tho' they liv'd in great state, were ever restor'd to their full honours. Many possessions of this Robert were given by King Henry 3. to his younger son Edmund; and King Edward 3. (so says the original record) by Act of Parliament gave Henry of Lancaster, the son of Henry Earl of Lancaster, the Earldom of Derby, to him and his heirs; and likewise assign'd him 1000 marks yearly during the life of Henry Earl of Lancaster, his father. From that time this title continued in the family of Lancaster, till King Henry 7. bestow'd it upon Thomas Stanley, who had not long before marry'd Margaret the King's mother9: and now Williamg the sixth Earl of Derby of this family, a man of great worth and honour, enjoys that dignity.
Thus far of the Counties of Notting [...] and Derby; partly inhabited by those who in Bede's time were call'd Mercii Aquilonares,The No [...] thern [...] cians. because they dwelt beyond the Trent northward, and possest, as he says, the land of seven thousand families.
This County includes 106 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to DERBYSHIRE.
[a] IN the more southerly part of this County, upon the river Trent is Repton, Repton. where Matilda, wife to Ralph Earl of Chester, founded a Priory of Canons Regular of the Order of St. Austin in the year 1172. And since the dissolution, Sir John Port of Etwall in this County, by his last Will, order'd a Free-school to be erected, appointing certain lands in the Counties of Derby and Lancaster for the maintenance of this, and an Hospital at Etwall: both which are still in a prosperous condition.
[b] The Trent running forward, receives the river Derwent; and upon it stands Derby, Derby. which had not this name by an abbreviation of Derwent, and the addition of by (as our Author imagines) but plainly from being a shelter for deer, which is imply'd in the true name of it, Deoraby. And what farther confirms it, is that 'twas formerly a park, and in the arms of the town to this day is a buck couchant in a park. Which joyn'd to the Lodge-lane, still the name of a passage into the Nuns-green; as they put the original of it out of all doubt, so do they evidently shew the ancient condition of the place. When the town was built does not appear, but its privileges and ancient charters argue it to be of good antiquity. It is exempted from paying toll in London, or any other place, except Winchester, and some few other towns; and is a staple-town for wool, a very ancient manufacture of this Kingdom.
There was formerly in it a Chapel dedicated to St. James, near which, in digging some cellars and foundations of houses, bones of a great size have been found. And on the north-side of St. James's lane, within the compass of ground where the Chapel stood, a large stone was made bare; which being gently remov'd, there appear'd a stone-coffin, with a very prodigious corps in it; but this, upon the first motion of the stone, turn'd into dust. The Coffin was so cut as to have a round place made for the head, wide about the shoulders, and so narrower down to the feet.
On the south-east corner of the town stood formerly a castle; tho' there have been no remains of it within the memory of man. But that there was [Page 497-498] one, appears from the name of the hill, call'd Cow-castle-hill; and the street that leads west to St. Peter's Church, in ancient Deeds bearing the name of Castle-gate.
In Allhallows Church, there is a monument for one Richard Crashaw of London Esquire, who dy'd the 20th of June An. 1631. He was originally a poor boy, a Nailer's son, and went to London in a suit of Leather; and what by his own industry, and the encouragement he met withal, manag'd his affairs so well as to dye worth ten thousand pound. Besides many charitable acts in his life, he left at his death above four thousand pound to the maintenance of Lectures, relief of the Poor, &c. There is also in this Church a monument for the memorable Elizabeth Countess of Shrewsbury, who founded the adjoyning Hospital for twelve poor people; and another very noble one for the Earl of Devonshire and his Countess, but without inscription.
[c] Within less than a quarter of a mile upon the north-side of Derby, stands Little-chester, [...]tle- [...]ester. having now not above 20 houses in it, and none of them ancient. But it's Antiquity is sufficiently attested by the many pieces of Roman coyn, found both in digging of cellars and plowing. Some of them are of brass, some of silver, and some few of gold bearing the inscription and image of several of the Roman Emperours. Upon a clear day, the foundation of a bridge may be seen, crossing the river to Darley-hill, which overlooks the town.
[d] North from hence is Chesterfield, [...]esterfield which hath given the title of Earl to Philip Lord Stanhop of Shelford, created Aug. 4. 4 Car. 1. who was succeeded in that honour by Philip Lord Stanhop his grandchild by Henry his eldest son.
Scarsdale also, the Division wherein Chesterfield stands, hath since our Author's time afforded the title of Earl to Francis Leak Lord Deincourt of Sutton, created Nov. 11. 1645. then to Nicholas Leak his son; and at present to Robert of the same name.
In the grounds belonging to Haddon-house [...]ddon. near Bakewell, was digg'd up this Altar, cut in a rough sort of stone, such as the house it self is built of: ‘DEO
MARTI
BRACIACAE
OSITTIVS
CAECILIAN.
PRAEFECT.
TRO
V. S.’
This (with one or two more, very broken and imperfect, without any direction also where they were found) were copy'd out by Mr. Walter Stone-house, Minister of Darfield in Yorkshire, a very learned Gentleman (now dead) whose large collection of Antiquities was sold by his son to Thomas Lord Fairfax, and by his Executors to Mr. Thoresby, whose son Mr. Ralph Thoresby, preserves them with great care, and is dayly making new additions.
Among the rest, he had a piece of a bone, and a tooth of a wonderful proportion; dug up in sinking a lead-grove near Bradwall about 7 miles from Haddon. The tooth (tho' about a quarter be broken off) is 13 inches and a half in compass, weighing 3 pound, 10 ounces, and 3 quarters. Along with these, were likewise found many other bones, which were broken and dispers'd; with the skull, which held 7 pecks of corn, as several persons of good credit affirm'd. Upon a sight of the tooth, Dr. Johnston took it to be the Dens molaris of an Elephant, and writ a Discourse upon it in a Letter to Mr. Stonehouse, who was before inclin'd to believe it the tooth of a man.
[f] Turning our course westward, we come to the Peake, where, near Buxton, by a hill call'd Coytmosse, is a very wonderful cave, nam'd Pooles-hole. [...]oles-hole. It's entrance is very strait and low; but 10 yards inwards you have room to toss a spear. In most parts of the cave there are little dropping waters, which having a petrifying virtue, make many curious shapes a [...]d fanciful works upon the sides.
At a litt [...]e distance from hence is a small clear brook, memorable for being made up both of hot and cold water; so joyn'd in the same stream, that you may at once put the finger and thumb of the same hand, one into hot, and the other into cold.
In those parts also, near a village call'd Byrch-o [...]r, is a large rock, and upon it are two tottering stones: the one is 4 yards in height and 12 yards about, and yet rests upon a point so equally pois'd, that one may move it with a finger. Which I the rather mention here, because Main-amber in Cornwall, a stone much like this, is now thrown down.
In the same mountainous tract is Castleden, Castleden. Aubr. MSS. Monum. Brit. near which, on a hill call'd Mamsor, is a fortification; and hard by were lately digg'd up Elephants bones. There is now within the fortification, a spring.
[g] As to Eden-hole, 'tis mention'd by our Author for its depth: and not without cause; for since his time it hath been plumb'd at the charge of Charles Cotton Esquire, to the depth of 800 fathom; and yet no bottom found.
Continuation of the EARLS.
William departing this life An. 1642, was succeeded by James his son and heir, eminent for his good services to K. Charles 1. as was also his excellent Lady Charlote. But after the fight at Worcester, being taken in Cheshire, and upon the 15th of October put to death at Bolton in Lancashire, he was succeeded by his son Charles, and he by his eldest son and heir William.
More rare Plants growing wild in Derbyshire.
Alsine pusilla pulchro flore, folio tenuissimo nostras seu Saxifraga pusilla caryophylloides, flore albo pulchello. Small fine-leaved mountain Chickweed, with a milk-white flower. In the mountainous parts of Derbyshire about Wirkesworth and elsewhere, plentifully.
Cochlearia rotundifolia Ger. major rotundifolia sive Batavorum. Park. Common round-leaved Scurvy-grass or garden Scurvy-grass. On the mountains at Castleton in the Peak, about the great subterraneous vault or hole.
Lapathum folio acuto, flore aureo C. B. anthoxanthon J. B. Golden Dock. In the meadows by the road-side leading to Swarston-bridge, which in winter-time in floods are overflown by the Trent.
Trachelium majus Belgarum Park. majus Belgarum sive Giganteum Park. Campanula maxima, foliis latissimis C. B. Giant Throatwort. In the mountainous pasture fields by the hedge-sides, &c. plentifully, as well in this County as in Yorkshire, Staffordshire, Nottinghamshire.
Viola tricolor Ger. tricolor major & vulgaris Park. Jacea tricolor, sive Trinitatis flos J. B. Pansies or Hearts-ease. In the mountains among the corn, and upon the mud-walls and fences of Stone.
Viola montana lutea grandiflora nostras. Flammea lutea seu 5 Ger. Pansies with a large yellow flower. In the mountainous pastures of the Peak in several places, principally where the soil is moist and boggy.
Vitis Idaea semper virens fructu rubro J. B. Idaea, foliis subrotundis non crenatis, fructu rubro C. B. Vaccinia rubra Ger. rubra buxeis foliis Park. Red Whorts or Bilberries. In the mountains of the Peak plentifully.
On the mountains in the Peak grow also those great mosses called Muscus clavatus sive Lycopodium, Clubmoss or Wolves-claw, and Muscus erectus abietiformis, Firr-leaved moss. Of which we have made mention, and given the Synonymes in Yorkshire.
Nothing more common there than Alchimilla vulgaris or common Ladies mantle, known to the vulgar by the name of Bearsfoot.
CORNAVII.
HAving in order survey'd the Counties of the Coritani, who were seated in the Western Parts, we proceed to take a view of the Cornabii or Cornavii. The original of which name, I must leave to others to enquire after. 'Tis true, I could wrest it to this and that signification: but since none will either suit the nature of the place, or genius of the people, I shall not swell this Volume with them. To pursue my design therefore, I shall severally go through those Provinces which (according to Ptolemy's description) the Cornavii seem to have possess'd, (viz.) Warwickshire, Worcestershire, Staffordshire, Shropshire, and Cheshire. In all which, not the least footstep of the name Cornavii remains at this day; although it seems to have continued even to the declension of the Roman Empire. For theNumeri & Turmae. Troops of the Cornavii served under the later Emperours; as may be seen in theLibro Notitīarum. Breviary of the Western Empire.
WARWICKSHIRE.
THE County of Warwick, call'd by the Saxons, as at present,a Warwickshire, is bounded on the East with Northamptonshire, Leicestershire, and the Military way mention'd before; on the South-side with Oxfordshire and Glocestershire; on the West, for the greatest part with Worcestershire; and on the North with Staffordshire. It is divided into two parts, the Feldon and the Woodland, i.e. a Champain, and a Woody Country, sever'd by the river Avon, running obliquely from North-east to South-west, through the middle of this County [a].
On the South-side of the Avon lies Feldon, Feldon. a champain Country, whose fertile fields of corn, and verdant pastures yield a most delightful prospect to those who view them from the top of Edghill [b]. Where this track of hills terminates near Warmington, I saw a large round military entrenchment, which I suppose (as others of the like nature) was cast up and made for present defence against the sudden inroads of some enemy. From the red soil hereabouts, [a village at the foot of Edghill] is call'd Rodway, or Rodley, and a great part of the Vale, the Vale of Red horse, The vale of Red-horse. bearing that name from the figure of a great horse, cut by the country people in the side of the hill near Pillerton, out of red coloured earth. In this part of the Country the places worthy of note are Shipston and Kynton, Shipston in Worcestershire. Kynton. the former an ancient market for sheep, the latter for kine or beasts; from whence they both deriv'd their name [c]. Compton Crompton. in the hole, so call'd from its being situated in a bottom almost surrounded with hills; yet it is not without its pleasures. From this place a noble family borrow'd their name; a descendant of which Henry Compton in the year 1572. was by the most illustrious Princess Queen Elizabeth raised to the dignity of a Baron of this Kingdomb. Wormleighton, well-known for the richness of its sheep-pastures; but much more remarkable since K. James created that excellent person, Robert Spencer, (of whom I have already spoken) Baron Spencer of Wormleighton Wormleighton. [d]. Shugbury, Shugbury. where thec Star-stones (Astroites) Astroites. are often turned up in ploughing the fields; which the Lords of that manour, the Shugburies, have long since taken into their Coat-armour. Southam, a market-town of some note, and well frequented. Leamington, Leamington. (so call'd from the little river Leame which runs through the precinct thereof) where there rises ad salt Spring. Vehindon, now Long Ichingdon, and Harbury. These two places are memorable on no other account, than the death of Fremundus, son of Offa King of the Mercians, who was basely and treacherously slain betwixt them [e]. A person of great eminence in his time, and of singular piety; whom nothing so much made the mark and object of envy, as that in an unhappy juncture, he triumph over the insolent Enemy. But this undeserved fate of his turn'd to his greatest glory; for being bury'd at the palace of his father Offa (now call'd Off-Church)O [...]f-Ch [...] his memory was continu'd to posterity, and canoniz'd, he had divine honours paid him by the people, and his life writ by an ancient Author in no ill verse. Some of which (describing the villain, who spurr'd on with the ambition of a crown, thus impiously assassinated him) it may not be unacceptable to present you withal.
But I must not omit to acquaint you that the Foss Foss-wa [...] (that old Roman-way) crosseth this Feldon or Champain part; some remains of whose Causey, in pastures now trackless and unfrequented, are to be seen near Chesterton, the seat of the very ancient family of thee Peitoes; of which was that William Peito, Peito. the Franciscan Frier, whom Paul the fourth then Pope, to mortifie Cardinal Pool, (Thus divine minds you see are subject to mortal passions) created in vain Cardinal and Legat of England; having cited Pool, as guilty of some heretical opinions, to answer the same at Rome. For Mary Queen of England, although entirely devoted to the See of Rome, so interposed in it, or rather opposed the same, that Peito was inhibited from entring England, and Pool preserv'd his Legatine authority [f]. Perhaps it may not be impertinent to mention what some writers under the reign of Edward the fourth [parabolically representing the great depopulation caused by inclosing of Common-fields] have complain'd of,Ross, an [...] T. B. ag [...] the dem [...] lishers o [...] Village [...] viz. That Covetousness coming down at the head of a numerous army of sheep, fell with great fury on the populous villages of this tract, drove out their ancient inhabitants with a mighty slaughter, and placed her new followers in their stead. Which great destruction made a man of learning in that age exclaim with the Poet;
On the bank of Avon, where with a slender stream [Page]
[Page] [Page 501-502] it enters this County, Rugby first offers it self to your view, a Market-town abounding with Butchers [g]; thenf Newenham Newenham Regis on the opposite side of the river, [...]e [...]cinal [...]prings. where three Springs arise, percolated, as 'tis probable, through an Alom Mineral, whose waters of ag milky colour and taste, have the reputation of being very medicinal in the Stone. They certainly are exceeding Diuretick, close and heal green wounds, and being drank with salt are laxative, with sugar restringent. Then Bagginton, [...]ggin [...]n. which hadh its castle, and heretofore belong'd to the Bagotts, a very honourable family. From which at a little distance lies Stoneley, [...]oneley. [...]egist. Mo [...]ct. de [...]neley. where King Henry the second founded a small Abby. Opposite to this on the bank of the Avon, stood a little castlei call'd Stoneley-Holme built in Holme-hull, which was destroyed at the time when England was miserably harrassed and over-run by the barbarous Danes under their Leader Canutus.
The next place on the banks of Avon, is the principal town of this County, which we call Warwick, [...]arwick. the Saxonsk Warring-ƿic, Ninnius and the Britains Caer Guaruic and Caer-Leon. All these names, (since they seem to bel deriv'd either from the British word Guarth, which signifies Praesidium or a Fortress; or from Legions posted in such places for their security;) in a great measure inclin'd me to think (altho' I am more of the Sceptick than Critick in matters of Etymology.) that this was that very town which in Britain by the Romans was call'd Praesidium: [...]sidium. where (as it is in the Notitia 2) the Praefect of the Dalmatian horse by the appointment of the Governour of Britain was posted. These Troops were levied in Dalmatia: and here we may observe the political prudence of the Romans, who in their Provinces disposed and quart'red their foreign Troops in garrisons; [...]reign [...]ops in [...]rrison. with whom and the natives (by reason of the great diversity of language and humours) there could not likely be any secret combinations form'd against their Government. [...]s l. 4. [...]cit. For, as Florus writes, Nations not habituated to the yoke of slavery, would otherwise be always attempting to shake it off. Whereupon it was, that from Africa the Moors, from Spain the Asturians and Vettones, from Germany the Batavians, the Nervii, Tungri, and Turnacenses; from Gaul, the Lingones and Morini, and from other parts the Dalmatians, Thracians, Alains, &c. were brought over to serve in Britain; as in their proper places we shall observe. But to return to our business: no one ought to think the Britains deriv'd the word Guarth from the Franks; for if we believe Lazius, 'tis of Hebrew extraction, in which original most Countries agree. But that this was the Praesidium 3, the authority of our Annals may convince us, assuring us, that the Roman Legions had here a station: and also its situation almost in the centre of the Province, intimates no less. For it lies at an equal distance from the coast of Norfolk on the East, and of Wales on the West; just such a situation as was that of Praesidium, a town of Corsica in the heart of that Island. Nor will it seem strange that the Romans should here have a fortress and military station, if we consider its situation on a steep and rocky eminence over the river Avon, and [h] the way on every side leading up to it, cut through the rock. That it hath been fortified with walls and a ditch, is very manifest. The castle is very strong both by nature and art: the seat heretofore of the Earls of Warwick, extending it self South-west [i]. The town it self is adorn'd with fair buildings, and owes very much of its beauty to Ethelfleda, Lady of the Mercians, who in the year 911. raised it out of its ruins. At the Norman invasion it was in a flourishing state, and had many Burgesses, as they call them; of whom 12 were by tenure to accompany the King in his wars, as may be seen in Domesday-book. He who upon warning given did not go, was fined 100 shillings to the King. But if the King cross'd the Seas against an enemy, then they were either to send him four Boatswains, or in lieu of them four pound in Deniers. In this Barony the King hath in Demesne 113 Burgesses; and the Barons of the King 112.
Roger, second Earl of Warwick of the Norman race, built here in the middle of the town the beautiful Church of S. Mary; which the Beauchamps, succeeding Earls, adorn'd with their Monuments.But his Monument in Worcester Cathedral, where he lies buried, tells us his name was Thomas Littleton. More especially the last of the Beauchamps, Richard Earl of Warwick andm Governour of Normandy, who dying at Roan in the year 1439. was with great magnificence and funeral pomp4 brought over and interr'd here [k].
Near Warwick to the North is Blacklow-hill, Blacklow-hill. on which Peter de Al. Gaversden. Gaveston, whom Edward the second from a mean condition had raised to the honour of the Earldom of Cornwall,n was beheaded by the Barons. For this man, puff'd up with the favour of his Prince, and the flattery of fortune, had assumed an excessive liberty, debauch'd the King, vilify'd all good men, prey'd upon the estates of all, and like a crafty old Courtier, promoted quarrels betwixt the King and the Nobility.
Hard by upon the Avon stands Guy-cliff, Guy-cliff. call'd by others Gibcliff, the present seat of Thomas de Bellofago or Beaufoe, of the old Norman race.J. Rouse of Warwick. This place is the seat of Pleasure it self: there is a shady grove, crystal springs, mossey caves, meadows ever green, a soft and murmuring fall of waters under the rocks; and to crown all, solitude and quiet, the greatest darling of the Muses. Here, fame tells us that Guy of Warwick,Guy of Warwick. that celebrated Hero, after he had finish'd his Martial atchievements, built a Chapel, led a Hermit's life, and was at last buried. But the wiser sort think that this place took its name from Guy de Beauchamp who liv'd much later. And certain it is, that Richard de Beauchamp Earl of Warwick, built and dedicated here a Chapel to S. Margaret, and set up theo Gyant-like statue of the famous Guy, still remaining [l].
From Warwick the Avon with a fuller body passes by Charlcott, Charlcott. the seat of the noble and knightly family of the Lucies; which long since hereditarily passed to them from the Charlcotts, who out of a pious intent built a Religious housep (for the support and entertainment of poor people and strangers) at Thellisford. For the brook was call'd Thelley; which running by Compton Murdack (heretofore belonging to the Murdacks, now to the family of the Verneys Knights) and thence by this Thellisford, falls into Avon. Which river within a little way salutes Stratford, a pretty handsom market-town, that owes its ornaments and beauty chiefly to its two natives, John de Stratford Stratford upon Avon. Archbishop of Canterbury,q who founded the Church here; and Hugh Clopton sometime Lord Mayor of London, who at extraordinary expence built the Stone-bridge here over the Avon, consisting of 14 arches. He was younger brother of an ancient family, which took their name from the adjacent manour [Page 503-504] of Clopton, from the time that Walter Cocksfield, stil'd Knight-Marshal, fix'd his seat here at Clopton for himself and posterity. Their inheritance in our time descended to two sisters coheirs, one of them married to Sir George Carew a famous Kt. (Vice chamberlain to her most serene Majesty Queen Anne) whom K. James created Baron Carew of Clopton, Baron Carew of Clopton. and whom, if for no other reason, I cannot omit for the great respect he paid to venerable Antiquity [m]. Avon see [...] nothing more on its banks, besides Bitford a small market-town, and some little Country villages, before it makes its entry into Worcestershire.
Now let us take a view of the Woodland, Woodland. which lying on the Northern-side of Avon, extends it self into a much greater compass than the Feldon; for the most part cloathed with woods, yet not wanting pastures or corn-fields; and hath several veins ofr Iron. As it is now call'd the Woodland, so by a more ancient name it was call'd Arden: Arden. which in my opinion are words importing the same thing. For Arden with the ancient Britains and Gauls did denote a Wood. And we know, in France, a vast wood bears the name of Arden; and a town in Flanders situated near another wood, is call'd Ardenburg; and that celebrated forest of England, paring off the first syllable, retains the name of Den. Not to mention that Diana, Diana which ins the old Gallick Inscription was call'd Ardwena Ardwena. and Ardoina, i.e. (if I am not much mistaken) Sylvestris, or, Of the woods, and was the same that in the Italick Inscriptions is called Nemorensis, or. Diana of the Groves. From this part, Turkiil de Arden who resided here, and was in great favour with King Henry 1. assumed that sirname; and his Descendants the Ardens, famous in succeeding ages, were branched out into all parts of England.
On the Western-side of the Woodland, the river Arrow [n] makes hast by Studly Studley. (some ages since a castle belonging to John son af Corbutio) to joyn the river Avon. But whether it be so call'd (as Tigris a river of Mesopotamia, which in the Persian language signifies an Arrow) from the swiftness of its current, or from its flow course (for that the word Ara among the old Britains and Gauls imports;) I leave to the search of others5. On the banks of Arrow lies Coughton, Coughton. the chief seat of the family of the Throckmortons Throckmortons. Knights, who since they married with the heiress of Speney, grew very numerous, famous, and fruitful of good Wits. Not far from hence lies Ouseley, memorable for the ancient Lords thereof, the Butlers, Barons of Wem, from whom it hereditarily descended to the Ferrars of Ousley. Ousley. Whose inheritance in a short time was divided betwixt John Lord of Greistocke, and Ralph Nevil. A little lower upon Arrow is seated Beauchamp's Court, Beauchamps Court. so called from Baron Beauchamp of Powicke; from whom, by the only daughter of Edward Willoughby son of Robert Willoughby Lord Brook, it came to Sir Fulk Grevill Grevills. Kt, a person no less esteem'd for the sweetness of his temper, than dignity of his station. Whose only son, of the same name, so entirely devoted himself to the study of real Virtue and Honour, that the nobleness of his mind far exceeded that of his birth: for whose extraordinary favours, tho' I must despair of making suitable returns, yet whether speaking or silent, I must ever preserve a grateful memory.
Below Beauchamp's-Court the river Alne or Alenus falls into Arrow, which in its course through a woody country, passes by Henley Henley. a litde market town, near which the Montforts, a noble family of great name, had a Castle, that from its delightful situation on a hill amidst the woods, was call'd by a French name Bell desert. But the castle hath long since been buried in its own ruins. They derived their pedigree not from the Almarian family of the Montforts, but from Turstan de Bastanberg a Norman. Their inheritance at length pass'd away by Daughters to the Barons of Sudley and the Frevils. Just at the confluence of the two rivers Arrow and Aulne, I saw Aulcester, Aulcester. by Mathew Paris called Allencester; and that more properly. The inhabitants, because it hath been a place of great note and antiquity, will needs have the true name to be Ouldeester. This was (as we read in an old Inquisition) a free Burrough of our Lord Henry 1. which the same King gave to Robert Corbet for his service: and when the same Robert died, it descended to 6 William de Botereux, and to Peter the son of Herbert. And when William de Botereux died, his Moiety descended to Reginald de Botereux as heir, who now holds it: A B [...] in the Ex [...]equer. and when Peter the son of Herbert died, his Moiety descended to Herbert the son of Peter, which Herbert gave it to Robert de Chaundois. 7 But from a very great town, 'tis reduc'd to a small market, tho' very noted for all sorts of grain [o]. Higher [north-east] where the Country is not so thick cloathed with woods, stands Wroxhall; Wro [...]h [...]ll. where Hugo de Hatton built a little Monastery or Priory. And Badesley, Baddes [...]ey. formerly the possession of the Clintons, now of the Ferrars. And Balshall, Ba [...]sha [...]l. heretofore a Preceptory of the Templars which Roger de Mowbray gave them,Register of the Te [...] plars and of the Order of St. John of J [...] rus [...]em. whose munificence to the Order of the Knights-Templars was so extraordinary, that by unanimous consent of their Chapter they decreed, that he should have the power of pardoning any Brother who had transgress'd the Rules of the Order, provided he came and acknowledg'd his crime before this their Benefactor. And the Knights of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem, to whom all thet possessions of the Templars in England were assign'd, (for to give to profane uses things once consecrated to God, our Ancestors thought a crime not to be aton'd for,) in testimony of their gratitude granted to John Mowbray de Axholm,See the Stat. a [...] Temp [...]ari [...] successor of the said Roger, that he and his successors, at every of the Assemblies of their Order, should be received in the next degree of honour to Soveraign Princes.
More to the north-east, in the midst of a Chase and Park, a confluence of little streams form a Lake; which being presently confin'd within Banks, make a Chanel or Kennel. Upon this stands Kenelworth, Kenelworth, comm [...] Kil [...]ingworth. heretofore vulgarly call'd Kenelworda, and corruptly Killingworth. From this town a most noble, beautiful, and strong Castle, encompass'd with a Chase and Parks, takes its name. It was built neither by Kenulphus, nor Kenelmus, nor Kineglisus, as some Historians have dreamt; but by Geoffrey de Clinton Lord Chamberlain to King Henry 1. and his son, (as may be seen in authentick evidences,) after he had founded there a Monastery for Canons Regular. But Henry hisPr [...]n [...] great grandchild wanting issue, sold it to King Hen. 3. who granted it to Simon de Montefort Earl of Leicester with Eleanor his sister, for her portion. But presently after, this bond of amity and friendship being broken, and Earl Simon, after dismal commotions, being slain in the Barons Wars8, the Castle endured a siege of six months, and at last was surrender'd to King Hen. 3.9 who made it part of the inheritance of the Lancastrian family. At which time was made and publish'd the Edict which our Lawyers stile Dictum de Kenelworth; whereby it was enacted, that all who had taken up Arms against the King, should pay five years value of all their lands, &c. 1266 A very wholsome piece of severity, without effusion of blood, to check those seditious spirits, so pernicious to the Government; whose only hopes were placed in the distractions of the State at that time. But now of late, by the royal munificence of Queen Elizabeth, it became the seat of Robert Dudley Earl of Leicester; who in rebuilding and adorning it, spar'd no cost. So that if you regard the magnificence of buildings, and nobleness of the Chase and Parks lying round and belonging to it; it may [Page 505-506] claim a second place among the stateliest Castles of England [p].
From hence (that I may pursue the same course I did in my journey) I saw Solyhill, in which was nothing worth seeing beside the Church. Next, Bremicham, [...]micham swarming with inhabitants, and echoing with the noise of Anvils, (for here are great numbers of Smiths.) The lower part is very watery. The upper rises with abundance of handsome buildings: and 'tis none of the least honours of the place, that from hence the noble and warlike family of the Bremichams 10 in Ireland had both their original and name. From thence in the extreme point of this County northward, lies Sutton Colefield, in a foresty, unkind, and barren soil; boasting of it's native John Voisy Bishop of Exeter, who in the reign of Henry 3. raised up this little town, then ruinous and decayed, and adorn'd it with fair buildings, great privileges, and a Grammar-school [q]. From hence going southward, I came to Coles [...]ud, belonging heretofore to the Clintons [r]; and neighbour to this is Maxtock-Castle, which in a continu'd succession had for it's Lords the Lindseys, who were Lords of Wolverly; the Odingsells, having their original from Flanders; and the Clintons, who have been very eminent in this County. Lower in the middle of this woody country is seated Coventry, so called (as I conjecture) from a Convent; for such a Convent in our Tongue we call a Covent, or Covenn; and frequently in our Histories, and in the Pontifical Decrees, this is call'd Conventria; as particularly in that,u Either the Bishop of Conventry is not in his right wits, or he seems wilfully to have quitted common sense. Yet some there are, who will have the name taken from a rivulet running through it, at this day called Shirburn, and in an old Charter of the Priory, [...]con [...] 3. p. 14. [...]cret. Cuentford. Whencesoever the name be taken, this City some ages since being enrich'd with the Manufactureuu of Cloathing and Caps, was the only Mart-town of this Country, and of greater resort than could be expected from its Mid-land situation. 'Tis commodiously seated, large and neat; fortify'd with very strong walls, and adorn'd with beautiful buildings: amongst which, two Churches of excellent Architecture stand near together, as it were rivalling each other; the one dedicated to the Holy Trinity, the other to St. Michael. There is nothing in it of very great antiquity. That which seems to be the greatest monument, is the Religious-house or Priory, whose ruins I saw near these two Churches. This, King Canutus founded for Nuns; who being expell'd within a little time, in the year 1040. Leofrick Earl of Mercia enlarg'd it, and in a manner built it a-new, with so great a show of gold and silver (to use Malmesbury's words) that the walls of the Church seem'd too strait to contain the treasures of it. It was very prodigious to behold; for from one beam were scrap'd w 50 marks of silver. And he endow'd it with so great revenues, that Robert de Limsey, Bishop of Lichfield and Chester, remov'd his See hither, as to the golden sands of Lydia; that (as the same Malmesbury hath it) he might steal from the treasures of the Church wherewithall to fill the King's Coffers, to cheat the Pope of his provisions, and gratifie the Roman avarice. However, this See, after a few years, return'd back to Lichfield; but upon these terms, that one and the same Bishop should be stil'd Bishop of Coventry and Lichfield. The first Lord of this City that I know of, [...] of [...]try. was Leofrick; who being incens'd against the Citizens, laid upon them very heavy taxes: these he would by no means remit (notwithstanding the great intercession of his Lady Godiva) unless she would consent to [...]ide naked thro' the most frequented parts of the city; [...]50. which (if credit may be given to tradition) she perform'd, [...]egus. having cover'd her body with her long dangling hair, without being seen by any one: and so freed her Citizens from many heavy impositions. From Leofrick, this City by Lucia his son Algar's daughter, came into the possession of the Earls of Chester; for she had marry'd Ranulph (the first Earl of that name, and the third of the family) who granted the same Liberties to Coventry that Lincoln enjoy'd; and gave a great part of the City to the Monks: the residue of it, and Chilmore their manour-house near the City, he reserv'd to him and his heirs; who dying, and the inheritance for want of issue-male coming to be divided amongst the sisters, Coventry, by the death of the Earls of Arundel, fell to Roger de Monte alto De monte Alto. or Monthault; whose grandson Robert, granted all his right, for want of issue-male, to Queen Isabel, Mother of King Edw. 3. to hold during her life: after her decease, the remainder to John de Eltham brother of the King, and to the heirs of his body begotten. In default of such, the remainder to Edward King of England [and his heirs for ever.] For so you have it in a Fine, the second year of Edward 3. But John of Eltham was afterwards created Earl of Cornwall, and this place became annex'd to the Earldom of Cornwall: from which time it hath flourish'd very much. Several Kings gave it divers immunities and privileges, especially Edward 3. who granted them the electing of a Mayor and two Bayliffs11; and Henry 6. who having laid to it some of the neighbouring villages, granted by his Charter (For so are the very words of it,) That it should be an entire County, incorporate by it self in deed and name, distinct from the County of Warwick. At which time, in lieu of two Bayliffs he constituted two Sheriffs; and the Citizens began to enclose it with very strong walls. In these, are very noble and beautiful gates: at that which goes by the name of Gofford, is to be seen a vast shield-bone of a Boar; which you may believe that Guy of Warwick, or Diana of the Groves (which you please) kill'd in hunting, after he had with his shout turn'd up the pit or pond that is now called Swansewell-pool, but in ancient Charters Swineswell. As to the Longitude of this City, it lies in 25 degrees, and 52 scruples; the Latitude in 52 degrees, and 25 scruples. Thus much of Coventry; which yet (that I may ingenuously acknowledge the person who furnish'd me with it) you must know you have not from me, but from Henry Ferrars of Badsley, a person to be respected as for his birth, so for his great knowledge in Antiquity, and my very good friend; who in this and other places courteously directed me, and (as it were) gave me leave to light my candle at his [s].
Near Coventry, to the North, are situated Ausley, Ausley. a castle heretofore of the Hastings Lords of Abergavenny; andww Brand, Brand. of old a seat of the Verdons To the East is placed Caloughdon, vulgarly call'd Caledon, Caledon. an ancient seat of the Barons Segrave, Barons Segrave. from whom it descended to the Barons de Berkley, by one of the daughters of Thomas Mowbray Duke of Norfolk. These Segraves (from the time that Stephen de Segrave was Lord Chief Justice of England) were Barons of this Realm, and enjoy'd the inheritance of the Chaucumbs, whose Arms from that time they assumed, viz.Arms of the Segraves. A Lion rampant, Argent, crowned Or, in a shield, Sable. John the last of this family, marry'd Margaret Dutchess of Norfolk, daughter of Thomas de Brotherton; and had issue Elizabeth, who carry'd the honour of Marshal of England, and title of Duke of Norfolk, into the family of the Mowbrays.
Not far from hence is Brinkle, Brinkle-castle. where was an ancient castle of the Mowbrays; to which belong'd many fair possessions lying round it: but time hath swept away the very ruins of it [t]; as also of the Monastery of Combe, Combe-Abbey. which the Camvils and the Mowbrays endow'd. Out of whose ashes the fair structure of the Harringtons arose in this place. As you go Eastward,x Cester-over presents it self, the possession of the Grevils; of whom I have before made mention. Near which, Watling street, a Military way of the Romans, dividing this County to the North from Leicestershire, passes by High-cross, of which we have already spoken: near Nonn-eaton, [Page 507-508] which of old was call'd Eaton; but Amicia the wise of Robert Bossu Earl of Leicester (as Henry Knighton writes) having founded a Monastery of Nuns here, in which she her self was profess'd of that number; from those Nuns it got the name of Non-Eaton. And formerly it was of great fame for the piety of its holy virgins, who being constant in their devotions, gave a good example of holy living to all about them. Near this stood heretofore Asteley-castle Asteley. the chief seat of the family of the Asteleys 12;Baron Aste [...]ey. the heiress of which was the second wife of Reginald Grey Lord of Ruthin. From him sprang the Greys Marquisses of Dorset, some of whom lye interr'd13 in the neat College here.
A little higher upon Watlingstreet (for so this Military way of the Romans is vulgarly call'd) where there is a bridge of stone over the river Anker, Manduessedum Manduessedum. is seated; a town of very great antiquity, mention'd by Antoninus: which having not yet altogether lost its name, is call'd Mancester, Mancester. and in Ninnius's Catalogue, Caer Mancegued. Which name (since a quarry of free-stone lies near it) 'tis probable was given it from the stone there digg'd and hew'd. For in the Glossaries of the British tongue, we learn that Main signifies a stone, and Fosswad in the Provincial language, digging; which being joyn'd together, seem aptly enough to express the name Manduessedum [u]. But how great, or of what note soever it was in those times, 'tis now a poor little village, containing not above fourteen small houses; and hath no other monument of Antiquity to shew, but an old Fort, which they call Old-bury, i.e. an old Burrough [w]. Atherston on the one side, a well-frequented market, (where the Church of the14 Friers was converted into a Chapel, which nevertheless acknowledges that of Mancester to be the Mother Church;) and Nonn-eaton on the other side, have by their nearness reduc'd Mancester to what you see it. Neighbour to Atherston is Meri-val, Merival. i.e. Merry-vale, where Robert de Ferrers built and dedicated a Monastery to God and the blessed Virgin; in which his body, wrapp'd up in an Ox-hide, lies interr'd.
Beyond these, Northward, lies Pollesworth, Pollesworth where Modwena an Irish virgin, fam'd for her wonderful piety, built a Nunnery, which Robert Marmion, a Nobleman (who had his castle in the neighbourhood at Stippershull) repair'd [x]. Hard by also in the Saxon times flourish'd a town (of which there appear now but very small remains) call'd Secandunum, at this time Seckinton; Seckinton. where Aethelbald, King of the Mercians, in a civil war was assassinated by1132 Beared in the year 749 but in a little time he was cut off by King Offa; by the same means falling from the throne by which he had impiously got it [y].
To close the whole, I must now give you a Catalogue of the Earls of Warwick.Earls of Warwick. And to pass over Guar, Morindus, Guy that Echo of England, and many more of that stamp, which the fruitful wits of those times brought forth at one birth: Henry son of Roger de Bellomonte, brother of Robert Earl of Mellent, was the first Earl of the Norman race, who marry'd Margaret daughter of Aernulph de Hesdin, Earl of Perch, a person of mighty power and authority. Of this family there were, who bore that honour, Roger son of Henry, William son of Roger (who dy'd in the 30th of King Henry the second,) Walleran his brother, Henry son of Walleran [...], Thomas his son (who dy'd without issue in the 26th of Henry the third,) and his sister Margery surviving, was Countess of Warwick, and dy'd childless. Her two husbands nevertheless, first John Mareschal, Pla [...] [...]3. Rot [...]34. then John de Plessets, in right of their wife, and by the favour of their Prince, were rais'd to the honour of Earls of Warwick. But these dying without any issue by Margery, Walleran, Margery's uncle by the father, succeeded in the honour; and he dying without issue, Alice his sister came to the Inheritance. Afterwards, William her son (call'd Male-doctus, Malduit, and Manduit de Hanslap,) who dy'd also without issue. But Isabel his sister being marry'd to William de Bello Campo, or Beauchamp, Baron of Elmesly, carry'd the Earldom into the family of the Beauchamps. Who, if I am not mistaken, because they were descended from a daughter of Ursus de Abtot, gave the Bear for their Cognisance, and left it to their posterity. Of this family there were six Earls and one Duke, William the son of Isabel, John, Guy, Thomas, Thomas the younger, Richard, and lastly Henry, to whom King, Henry the sixth made a Grant without precedent, That he should be primier Earl of all England, and use this title, Henry primier Earl of all England, and Earl of Warwick. Rot. Par [...]. 23 Hen. [...] He made him also King of the Isle of Wight, afterwards created him Duke of Warwick, and by the express words of his Patent, granted that he should have place in Parliament, and elsewhere, next to the Duke of Norfolk, and before the Duke of Buckingham. He had but one daughter, Anne, 24 H [...]. who in the Inquisitions was stil'd Countess of Warwick, and dy'd in her Infancy. She was succeeded by Richard Nevill, who had marry'd the daughter of the said Duke of Warwick; a person of an invincible spirit, but changeable and fickle in his Allegiance, the very sport and tennis-ball of fortune. Who, altho' no King himself, was yet superiour to Kings; as being the person who depos'd Henry the sixth (a most bountiful Prince to him) and set up Edward the fourth in his place. Afterwards he un-king'd him again, re-establisht Henry the sixth in the Throne, and involv'd the kingdom in the flames of a civil war, which were not extinguisht but with his own blood15. Edward, son of one of his daughters by George Duke of Clarence, succeeded; whom Henry the seventh (for neither youth nor innocence could protect him) to secure himself and the line, put to death. The title of this Earldom (which was become formidable to Henry the eighth by the great troubles Richard Nevil, that scourge of Kings, had created) lay dormant, till Edward the sixth gave it to John Dudley; deriving a title from the Beauchamps. He (as the before mention'd Richard) endeavouring to subvert the Government under Queen Mary, had his boundless ambition punisht with the loss of his head. But his sons, first John, whilst his father was living and Duke of Northumberland, by the courtesie of England made use of this title for some time: and afterwards Ambrose, a person most accomplisht in all heroick qualities, and of a sweet disposition, by the royal favour of Queen Elizabeth, had in my time the title restor'd him16, maintain'd the honour with great applause, and at last dy'd without issue17.
In this County are 158 Parish-Churches.
ADDITIONS to WARWICKSHIRE.
THIS County at first sight should promise a considerable stock of Antiquities, being almost encompass'd with old Roman ways, which generally afford us the largest treasure. Watlingstreet runs along the East-part, Ykenildstreet upon the West, and both are cut by the Foss, crossing it from South-west to North-east. And had but Sir William Dugdale took the liberty of making larger digressions of that kind, either in the body of his work, as such places lay in his way, or in the method which Dr. Plott has since us'd, making such Antiquities an Appendix to his elaborate work; we should probably have found the discoveries answerable to the appearance, and that those ways would have contributed the same assistance to that search, as they do in other Counties. I dare not call it an omission, because it did not so directly fall under his design; but if it were, those many excellent digressions he has given us concerning the nature and difference of Monastick orders, consecrations of Churches, and such like, would make ample satisfaction. However, since we cannot compass the whole, let us be content with what we have; and accompany Mr. Camden to the several parts of this County.
[a] Only, we must premise something of the condition of its two general branches, Feldon, and Wood land. That the first was once exceeding populous, may certainly be inferr'd from the numbers of villages enter'd in Domesday, the situation whereof are now known only by their ruins, or at most by a cottage or two of a Shepherd's, who ranges over and manages as much ground as would have employ'd a dozen Teems, and maintain'd forty or fifty families. The reason of converting so much Tillage into Pasture in this part, seems to be the great progress the Woodlanders have made in Agriculture, by which means the County began to want Pasture. For the Iron-works in the Counties round, destroy'd such prodigious quantities of wood, that they quickly lay the Country a little open, and by degrees made room for the plough. Whereupon the Inhabitants, partly by their own industry, and partly by the assistance of Marle, and of other useful contrivances, have turn'd so much of Wood and Heath-land into Tillage and Pasture, that they produce corn, cattel, cheese, and butter enough, not only for their own use, but also to furnish other Counties; whereas, within the memory of man, they were supply'd with Corn, &c. from the Feldon.
[b] Feldon is recommended for the delicate prospect it affords from Edge-hill; [...]c. [...]hill. but Edge-hill it self is since become much more considerable for that signal battel fought there between the King and Parliament, Sept. 9. 1642. The generality of our Historians compute the number of the slain to have been five or six thousand, but by the survey taken by Mr. Fisher, Vicar of Kineton (who was appointed by the Earl of Essex for that purpose) the list of the slain amounted only to thirteen hundred and odd.
On the Noth-east corner of Edge-hill stands Ratley, [...]y. call'd falsly by our Author Rodley, it never appearing under that name: only in Domesday-book it is indeed call'd Rotelei. The fortification he mentions, is not round, but quadrangular, and contains about 12 acres. Near which within our memory, were found a sword of brass, and a battle-ax: something of this kind our Author observes to have been discover'd at the foot of St. Michael's Mount in Cornwall.
The shape of the horse mention'd by our Author is on the side of Edge-hill; and the trenches that form it are cleans'd and kept open by a neighbouring Freeholder, who holds lands by that service.
[c] Kineton [...]on. cannot be (as Mr. Camden would have it) deriv'd from its market of kine, because Henry 1. gave this Church under the name of Chinton to the Canons of Kenilworth, [...]de [...]orth whereas the market was not granted till 4 Henr. 3. But 'tis probable it had that name from being the possession of the Kings, particularly, of Edward the Confessor or William the Conquerour. And to the North-west of the town, at the point of a hill, still call'd Castle-hill, there has been a Castle (as appears by a little mount cast up, and a broad and deep ditch round it,) where tradition says King John kept his Court: a Spring also at the foot of the hill goes at this day by the name of King John's well.
North-east from Kineton is Chadshunt, Chadshunt. one of the 24 towns given by Leofrick Earl of Mercia to the Monastery of Coventry; in his Charter call'd Chaddesleyhunt, and in Domesday Cedesleshunte. 'Tis probable it had that name from S. Chadde, call'd also Cedde, and Ceadde. For in the Chapel yard was an ancient Oratory, and in it (as the Inhabitants report) the Image of St. Chadde; by reason of the resort of Pilgrims worth 16 l. per An. to the Priest.Inquis. capt. 4. Eliz. Here is also a Well or Spring, that still retains the name of Chad's-well.
Not far from hence is Nether Ealendon, Nether Ealendon. which manour was held of Henry de Ferrers at the time of the Conquest, and continues at this day in the hands of his posterity of the male-line; such an uninterrupted succession of owners for so many ages, as we seldom meet with. Till Henry the third's time it was their principal seat: then removing into Derbyshire, they took the name of Shirley, and the present Lord of this place is Sir Robert Shirley, Baronet.
[d] More Eastward stands Wormleighton, Wormleighton. of which place Mr. Camden tells us Robert Spenser was created Baron by K. James 1.Baronage, Tom. 2. p. 418. Dugdale also says that Sir Robert Spenser, son to Sir John, (and not Sir John, as it is in some Editions of our Author) was he upon whom K. James 1. on the 21th of July, and first year of his reign, conferr'd the dignity of a Baron under the title of Lord Spenser of Wormleighton: whose grandson Henry Lord Spenser being advanc'd by K. Charles the first to the title of Earl of Sunderland, and in arms for that Prince in the late civil wars, lost his life in the first battel of Newbury.
[e] Next we go forward to Long-Ichingdon, Long-Ichingdon. so call'd from the river Ichene on which it stands;Dugda [...]. p. 230. and memorable for the birth of S. Wolstan the famous Bishop of Worcester; who being educated in the Abbey of Peterburrow, was shorn a Monk in the Monastery at Worcester, and afterwards became Bishop of the place An. 1060. upon the removal of Aldred to the See of York. This town was anciently one of the chief of this County, as appears by the large number of hides it contain'd in the Conquerour's Survey, and by its being rank'd in the number of those few, which in 15 Hen. 2. were put under the title De auxilio villarum & burgorum ad maritandam filiam Regis, whereunto the inhabitants hereof paid C. shillings.
[f] From hence to the South-west lyes Chesterton, Chesterton. which shows a threefold evidence of its antiquity; the first it carries in the name; for the Saxon Ceaster, and so our Chester, comes plainly from the Roman Castrum, and is not originally a German word, but us'd by them here in England after the Romans had left it. And this is plain from Mr. Burton's observation, That he never found the termination added to any places, but such only where the Romans had built their Castra. The second mark, is its nearness to the Roman Foss, upon which 'tis evident that at convenient distances, places of entertainment were built for the reception of the Armies in their march. The third token is, that in the compass within which the Roman building is suppos'd to have stood, several old coins have been digg'd up. And these three arguments amount to little less than a demonstration of its Roman antiquity.
[g] Let us now return to the East-part, and follow the course of the river Avon; upon which we first meet with Rugby, Rugby. in Domesday-book written Rochebery, which nameWarwickshire, p. 26. Sir William Dugdale derives from a Roche, a rock or quarrey of stone, For such (says he) there is westward from this town about half a mile; [Page 511-512] and 'tis very like that the ground whereon the town stands being high, is of the same condition. There was formerly at it a little castle, which stood about a furlong from the Church northwards, as is to be seen by the banks of earth, and part of the moat yet remaining. The fore-cited Author is of opinion that it was built in the time of King Stephen, who fearing an invasion from the Empress, granted leave to the Nobility to build every man his castle within his own grounds.
Not far from Rugby is Brounsover, Brounsover. upon the East-bank of the river Swift; in the original whereof (as also of many other names of the same termination) I must crave leave to dissent from Sir William Dugdale, who tells us that over us'd upon those occasions, signifies always supra, above, over, or higher. And where it has nether answering it in the name of a place at some little distance, the case is plain; but whenever such a place stands upon a river, I think it is more natural to fetch it from the Saxon ofre, ripa, a bank, which as it is suited to the condition of the place, so does it prevent the absurdity of laying down a relative name without a correlative to answer it. This conjecture will, I am confident, approve it self by instances in most Counties in England, as it does particularly in Warwickshire.
More towards the West we find Stretton, Stretton. so nam'd from its situation upon that Stratum or Street of the Romans call'd the Foss. There is another place of this name not far from Stow in Lincolnshire, which likewise stands upon a Roman Causey; and that name, wheresoever it occurs throughout this kingdom, seems to have the same original: which observation may perhaps now and then be of use to persons of curiosity, whose inclinations lead them to the tracing out of such ways.
Going along with the Foss towards Leicestershire, at a little distance from it,Dugd. War. p. 50. is Monks-kirkby, where are certain tokens of a Roman station. For by digging the ground near the Church, there have been discover'd the foundations of old walls and Roman bricks. There are also three or four heaps of earth in an adjoyning pasture, apparently the monuments or Sepulture of some military persons in those days: which badges are sufficient to prove, that it hath been a place of note many hundreds of years since. But what my Author adds; And it may very well be, that those materials for building, by reason of the ruins before mention'd, so ready at hand, became a special motive to that renown'd Lady Aethelfleda (so much taken notice of by our old Historians, and stil'd Merciorum Domina) to begin the structure of this place. This (I say) I cannot agree to for two reasons; the first, because that place is call'd in Saxon Cyricbyrig, and I have never observ'd that their byrig passes into our modern by or bie; nor is this termination the same with byrig (as Sir William Dugdale intimates) which comes from beorg, collis, and includes in its signification a rising ground, such as their forts were generally built upon; whereas the other implies no more than a bare dwelling place, without any respect to the situation, and is (if I mistake not) of Danish original, by meaning the very same thing in the old Islandick. My second reason is, that another place offers it self with a greater colour of probability. It is Chirbury on the West-part of Shropshire, which as it retains the old name, so lying upon the frontiers of the kingdom of Mercia, and not far from the Severn, it seems to me a much more proper place than the other.
Next is Warwick, Warwick. in the description whereof our Author has been very particular, as to matters of Antiquity; but has left us little concerning its situation, tho' that be pretty singular. It stands on a hill, which is one entire rock of free-stone; out of whose bowels were wrought all the publick buildings that adorn it. Each of the four ways to it (answering the four points) lead you by a Religious house, through a rock, and through streets which all meet in the centre of the town. The wells and cellars are made in the rock; and the descent every way keeps it clean. Under it, on the South, is a fruitful Champain Country; on the North are groves, woods, and parks.
[i] The Castle is now made a most noble and delightful seat: the height of the solid rock from the river on which it stands, is 40 foot, but on the North side it stands even with the town, which particularly is adorn'd with two publick buildings, a County-hall and a Market-house; and is now supply'd with water brought in pipes from Springs at half a miles distance.
[k] Besides the monuments of the Beauchamps, the Church of St. Mary is honour'd with those of Robert and Ambrose Dudley Earls of Leicester. On the north side also of the Quire, in an octangular room (formerly the Chapter-house) is a stately monument (black and white marble) of Fulk Lord Brook, erected by himself in his life-time, and circumscrib'd with this Epitaph: Fulk-Grevil, servant to Queen Elizabeth, Counsellor to King James, and friend to Sir Philip Sidney. Trophaeum Peccati. In the Church it self lies John Rous, a native of this place, and Chantry-priest of Guy's Cliff. Sir William Dugdale calls him a famous Antiquary; and Leland and Bale give him a character as ample, when they tell us, he had devoted himself wholly to the study and search of Antiquities, particularly of this his native place; and to that end had view'd and examin'd most Libraries in England. Here lies also John Cartwright (first Master of the Earl of Leicester's Hospital) whom Mr. Camden in his Elizabeth stiles Inter Puritanos Antesignanus.
[l] The story of the famous Guy of this place is so much obscur'd by fables and Romances, that 'tis difficult to determine how far it ought to be credited. 'Tis certain however, that some Centuries since, the greatest of the Earls of Warwick have paid a mighty veneration to his memory. William Beauchamp call'd his eldest son after him, Guy; Thomas, by his last will, bequeath'd the Sword and Coat of Mail of this Guy, to his son; another Christen'd a younger son by the name of his successor, and dedicated to him a noble Tower, the walls whereof are 10 foot thick; the circumference 126, the height from the bottom of the ditch upward, 113 foot. Another left a Suit of Arras, wherein were wrought the heroick Acts of Guy, as an heirloom to his family. Lastly, his sword and other Accoutrements, now to be seen in the Castle, were by Patent 1 Hen. 8. granted to William Hoggeson Yeoman of the Buttery, with the see of two pence per diem for that service. Whether it was the example of this Heroe that put a spirit in his successors, I know not; but we find by our Histories, that from the Conquest to the death of Ambrose Dudley, there was scarce any one considerable scene of action, wherein the Earls of Warwick made not a great figure.
Two miles below Warwick is Barford, Barf [...]r [...] where there is still living one Samuel Fairfax, born in the year 1647. who when he was 12 years of age, dwelt under the same roof and eat at the same table with his father and mother, grandfather and grandmother, great grandfather and great grandmother; who all liv'd very happily together: and none of the three generations of either sex had been twice marry'd.
[m] Then the Avon runs to Stratford, given by Ethelardus a Viceroy of Worcestershire, to the Bishoprick of Worcester, 300 years before the Conquest. The Church was Collegiate, and the College is still standing: in the Chancel lies William Shakespear, a native of this place, who has given proof of his genius and great abilities, in the 48 Plays he has left behind him. The stone that covers him has this Inscription:
[n] From hence we are carry'd by the same river to the Arrow, Arrow. which runs into this a little below Bitford. I was once of opinion that it was this river the Danes sail'd up when they had a design upon the kingdom of Mercia; being induc'd to it by the common conjecture, and the similitude of Arƿan the ancient [Page 513-514] name and Arrow the present. What made it yet more plausible, was, the reading of Florence of Worcester and Hovden, wherein I find the same river call'd Arewe. But upon weighing the circumstances of that action, I found a necessity of quitting my opinion, tho' without the good fortune of meeting with any other place where I could safely settle it. For first, Arrow rises in Worcestershire, and does not run long before it joyns it self to the Avon, being no way so considerable as to be capable of carrying vessels, tho' very small. Then the history tells us, they went out of the Thames, and after they had compass'd their design, brought the spoil into the river Medway in Kent; which makes it very probable, that this place was not at so great a distance as Warwickshire. What if we should say that Orwel, a good large river which parts Essex and Suffolk, was the place. 'Tis more than probable, that this initial Or was formerly Ar, because that change has been very usual, and at the side of this river is a place call'd Arwerton; and why may not Harwich have been formerly call'd Arƿic, and not Hereƿpic, as Camden imagines, who very often sets down Saxon names without the authority of Records, unless he had some which I could never yet see. If this conjecture seem a little too much strain'd, why may not the reading of the Saxon Annals, into Arƿan, be false for to Arƿan, and so that name rather denote the place whither they went, than the river? Nothing is more common in ancient Copies than such errors; and if Arƿan may be changed into Waran, the river may be Lee, and and the place Ware. But these are bare conjectures, to which I cannot reasonably challenge any man's positive assent.
[o] Leaving the Avon, and following the river Arrow, we first meet with Alcester; [...]celster. D [...]gd. [...]at. p. 568. the termination whereof tempts us to expect something of Antiquity. It's situation likewise upon the Roman way Ykenild street, raises our expectation yet higher; and upon the authority of Sir William Dugdale (who tells us that old foundations of buildings, Roman bricks, and coins both of gold, silver, and brass, have been frequently found there) we need not scruple to affirm that this was formerly a Roman Station. About fifty years ago, in an old foundation where they were digging a Cellar, there was an urn taken up, with 600 and odd pieces of Roman coin in it; eight of them gold, and the rest silver. Most of them are of Roman Emperours, and the Reverses generally different. They fell to the right honourable the Lord Brooke, as Lord of the manour; and are now in the hands of his Lady.
[p] To follow Mr. Camden, let us next go to Kenelworth, [...]. or Killingworth, which pass'd from Robert Dudley Earl of Leicester to Sir Robert Dudley his natural son, who sold it to Prince Henry; and he dying without issue, it came into the hands of Prince Charles, who committed the custody of it to Robert Earl of Monmouth, Henry Lord Carey his eldest son, and Tho. Carey Esquire; the inheritance whereof is granted to Lawrence Viscount Hide of this place, and Earl of Rochester. King Edw. 2. was for some time detain'd Prisoner here. They still find balls of stones 16 inches diameter, suppos'd to have been thrown in slings in the times of the Barons wars. Robert Earl of Leicester is said to have laid out 60000 pound in repairing, building, and adorning it. He entertain'd Queen Elizabeth and the Court 17 days, with all the varieties and magnificence both of feasting and shews. In which time he spent 320 hogsheads of ordinary beer, as appears by the accounts of his Steward. The Castle, in the late Civil wars, was demolish'd by those that had purchas'd it of the Parliament with design to make money of the materials.
[q] In the utmost Northern bound is Sutton-Colefield, [...]- [...]olefield. where the Earls of Warwick had a Chase of great extent. The market is now almost wholly disused; and the Bishop of Exeter mention'd by our Author, liv'd and dy'd here in the 103. year of his age.
[r] Next is Coleshill, [...]ol [...]shill. where in an old foundation, was lately, dug up a Roman copper Coin of Trajan's: and not far from it, Blith, [...]h. memorable for nothing but that it was purchas'd by Sir William Dugdale, and was his place of residence when he compil'd that accurate and elaborate work, his Antiquities of this County.
[s] We come next to Coventry, Coventry. the walls and towers whereof were demolish'd at the Restoration, by command of King Charles 2. the gates only left standing; by which one may guess at the strength and beauty of the former. Edward 4. for their disloyalty took the Sword from the Mayor, and seiz'd their Liberties and Franchises; which they redeem'd for 500 marks. In memory of Leofric (who dy'd 13 of Edward the Confessor) and Godiva his Countess, their pictures were set up in the windows Trinity Church, with this Inscription;
And a Procession or Cavilcade is still yearly made in memory of Godiva, with a naked figure, representing her riding on horse-back through the City. They have a stately Cross built (33 Hen. 8.) by Sir William Hollies, sometime Lord Mayor of London, for workmanship and beauty inferiour to few in England. The City, among other things, is famous for the two Parliaments held in it; the former in the 6 Hen. 4. call'd from the exclusion of the Lawyers Parliamentum indoctorum; the latter in the 38 Hen. 6. from the Attainder of Richard Duke of York, the Earls of Salisbury, Warwick, and March, call'd by some Parliamentum Diabolicum. Since our Author's time, it hath afforded the title of Earl to George Villiers, created Earl of Coventry and Duke of Buckingham, 18. May 21 Jac. 1. in which honours he was succeeded by his son of the same name.
[t] From Coventry let us pass to Brinklow, Brinklow. famous for an ancient castle.Dugd. War. p. 147 It is, in all probability, older than the Norman Conquest, otherwise our publick Records, or some other Authorities, would certainly have taken notice of it. If we should carry it back to the times of the Romans, there are several circumstances which seem to justifie such a conjecture. As, the Saxons very often applying their Hleaƿ (from whence our low comes) to such places as were remarkable for the Roman Tumuli; that there is an eminent tumulus, upon which the Keep or Watch-tower of the castle did stand; that it lies upon the Roman Fosse; and is at a convenient distance from the Bennones.
[u] Passing hence northward to the river Anker, on the western bank thereof we find Manceter, Manceter. confirm'd to be the ancient Manduessedum, by divers coyns of silver and brass, which have been by digging and plowing frequently brought to light.
[w] In the same Parish is Oldbury, Oldbury. a place of great antiquity, as appears by a Quadrangular Fort containing seven acres of ground. In the North-part of it, there have been found several flint-stones about four inches in length, curiously wrought by grinding or some such way. The one end is shap'd like the edge of a Pole-ax; and by Sir William Dugdale they are thought to have been weapons us'd by the Britains, before the art of making arms of brass and iron. They must have been brought hither for some extraordinary use, because there are no flints to be found within 40 miles of the place. One of them is now to be seen in Ashmole's Musaeum at Oxford.
[x] On the other side of the river, northward,Pollesworth lies Pollesworth, where Sir Francis Nethersole, a Kentish Gentleman, and sometime publick Orator to the University of Cambridge, at the instance of his Lady, built a Free-school; on the front whereof is this Inscription:
He enseoft six Gentlemen and seven Divines in as much as amounted to 140 l. per annum at the least, for a liberal maintenance of a School-master and School-mistress to teach the children of the Parish. And what remain'd, was to be employ'd in charitable [Page 516-517] uses, such as he in his life time should think fit, and in default of his own actually disposing of it, left it to the discretion of his Trustees. He likewise he built a fair house for the Vicar of Pollesworth.
[y] Farther North is Seckinton, Seckinton. which as it is memorable for the battel between Aethelbald and Beornred, so I may further add that it took its name from that engagement; secce in Saxon signifying battel, and dun (which afterwards was chang'd into ton) a hill. Scarce a furl [...]ng north of the Church, is a notable fort, and near it an artificial hill of 43 foot high.
Continuation of the EARLS.
Ambrose Dudley the last Earl, dying in the year 1589. Robert Lord Rich of Leeze was created Earl of Warwick 16 Jac. 1. and soon after dying, was succeeded by his son, and grandson, both Roberts. Charles, brother to the latter, was next Earl, who dying 24 Aug. 1673. left the honour to Robert Rich, Earl of Holland, his Cousin-german. Which Robert was succeeded in both the honours by Edward his son and heir.
More rare Plants growing wild in Warwickshire.
Though I have lived some years in this County, yet have I met with no peculiar local plants growing therein: the more rare and uncommon are,
Cyperus gramineus miliaceus Ger. Millet-Cyperus-grasse, mentioned in Essex. Frequent by the river Tames-sides near Tamworth, and elsewhere.
Cyperus longus inodorus sylvestris Ger. Gramen cyperoides altissimum foliis & carina serratis P. Boccone. Long-rooted bastard Cyperus. In boggy places by the river Tame at Dorsthill near Tamworth.
Equisetum nudum Ger. junceum seu nudum Park. foliis nudum non ramosum s. junceum C. B. Naked Horse-tail or Shave-grass. This species is more rare in England. We found it in a moist ditch at Middleton towards Drayton. It is brought over to us from beyond Sea, and employ'd by artificers for polishing of vessels, handles of tools, and other utensils: it is so hard that it will touch iron it self. I am informed by my honoured Friend Mr. John Awbrey, that it is to be found in a rivulet near Broad-stitch Abbey in Wiltshire plentifully. That sort which grows common with us is softer, and will not shave or polish wood, much less iron.
Juncus laevis minor panicula glomerata nigricante; call'd by those of Montpellier, with whom also it is found, Juncus semine Lithospermi. Black-headed Rush with Gromil-seed. In the same places with the Cyperus longus inodorus.
Gramen cyperoides palustre elegans, spica composita asperiore. Elegant Cyperus-grass with a rough compound head. In a Pool at Middleton towards Coleshill.
Gramen cyperoides polystachion majus, spicis teretibus erectis. Cyperoides angustifolium spicis longis erectis C. B. Great Cyperus-grass with round upright spikes. In several pools about Middleton.
Lunaria minor, Ger. Park. Moonwort. This is found in several closes about Sutton-Colfeld, on the west side of the town.
Narcissus sylvestris pallidus, calyoe luteo C. B. Pseudo-narcissus Anglicus Ger. Anglicus vulgaris Park. Bulbocodium vulgatius J. B. Wild English Daffodil. In some pastures about Sutton Colfeld on the East side of the town plentifully.
Ranunculo sive Polyanthemo equatili albo affine Millefolium maratriphyllum fluitans J. B. Millefolium maratriphyllum Ranunculi flore Park. Millef. aquat. foliis Foeniculi, Ranunculi flore & capitulo C. B. Fennel-leav'd Water-Crowfoot. In the River Tame, and the Brooks that run into it plentifully. It is also found in the river Ouse near Oxford. It is a perfect genuine Crow-foot, and ought to be call'd Ranunculus aquaticus Foeniculi foliis.
Turritis Ger. vulgatior J. B. Park. Brassica sylvestris foliis integris & hispidis C. B. Tower-mustard. On Dorsthill-hill near Tamworth.
Vaccinia rubra buxeis foliis Park. Red-whorts or Bill-berries. See the other Synonymes in Derbyshire. On the black boggy-heaths between Middleton and Sutton.
Equisetum sylvaticum Tab. Ger. sylvaticum tenuissimis setis C. B. omnium minimum tenuifolium Park. Equisetum sive Hippuris tenuissima non aspera J. B. Wood-Horsetail. In moist places, and by the watery ditches by the wood-side on the right hand as you go from Middleton to Sutton, a little before you come to the heath.
Erica baccifera procumbens nigra C. B. baccifera procumbens Ger. baccifera nigra Park. baccifera Matthioli J. B. Black-berried Heath, Crow-berries or Crake-berries. On the moist banks by the new Park at Middleton, on that side next London-road, where is also found Osmunda Regalis.
Bistorta major Ger. maj. vulgaris Park. maj. rugosioribus foliis J. B. maj. radice minus intorta. The greater Bistort or Snakeweed. In the meadows at Tamworth and Fasely plentifully.
Vitis Idaea Thymi foliis. Idaea palustris C. B. Vaccinia palustria Ger. Park. Oxycoccus seu vaccinia palustria J. B. Marsh Whortle-berries, Moss-berries, Moor-berries or Corn-berries. In the moorish grounds and quagmires in Sutton-Colfeld-park plentifully.
WORCESTERSHIRE.
THE Second Province of the Cornavii having now changed its name, is from the principal town call'd in Latin Wigorniensis Comitatus, in Saxon Wireceaster-scyre, and in the present English, Worcestershire [a]. The Inhabitants hereof with their neighbours, in the time of Bede, before England was divided into Counties, were call'd [b] Wiccii, Wiccii. which name, if not given them from the winding course of the river on which they dwell (for as I have before observ'd, the Saxons stil'd the winding reach of a river, ƿic,) may seem to be deriv'd from the Salt-pits, Salt-pits. which the ancient English in their language nam'd Witches. For in this Country there are noble Brine-pits; and many Salt-springs are ever and anon discover'd, but are presently stopp'd up, because, as I learn from ancient writings, they are obliged, for the preservation of wood, to make Salt only in one place. Nor let it be thought improbable that places should take their names from Salt-pits, seeing there are many instances hereof in all Countries; and our Ancestors the Germans (as Tacitus reports) firmly believed such places to be nearest Heaven; and that mens prayers are no where sooner heard by the Gods.
This County lies bounded by Warwickshire on the East, by Glocestershire on the South; by the Counties of Hereford and Salop on the West, and on the North by Staffordshire. To say all in one word; the Air and Soil are both so propitious, that it's inferiour to none of its neighbours, either for health or plenty1. It produceth especially Pears in great abundance, which though not grateful to nice palates, nor do they keep well; yet they afford a vinous juice of which is made a sort of counterfeit wine call'd Pyrry, Pyrry. which is very much drunk; though it be, like other liquors of that kind, both cold and flatulent.
Neither is it less happily accommodated with water, for it hath in all parts very fine rivers, which furnish it plentifully with fish of the most delicious [Page]
[Page] [Page 517-518] kinds. Not to mention those which are less remarkable, the most noble river of Severn directs the course of its rich stream from North to South through the very middle of the County, and Avon waters the South-part thereof in its way out of Warwickshire into Severn [c].
Severn at its very first entrance into this County runs between Kidderminster and Beawdley; Kidderminster and B [...]awdley. the latter justly taking that name from its most pleasant situation, upon the declivity of a hill over the Western bank of the river: it was lately remarkable for the wonderful height of the trees in the adjacent forest of Wyre, which are now in a manner all gone; whence our Poet and Antiquary Leland saith of it,
But now this little town is celebrated only for its delicate situation and beauty; together with the Palace ofThe name probably is Ticcen-hill, i.e. Goats-hill, not Ticken-hall; and so has been the name of the place before the house was built, which with the adjoyning Park was destroy'd in the late times of Usurpation. Tickenhall, which King Henry the seventh built to be a place of retirement for Prince Arthur At which time he granted some privileges to Beawdley: Hol. Upon the strictest enquiry I cannot find any ground for what Mr. Holiand saith. The Town seems to have been first incorporated by King Edw. 4. whose Charter grants them great Privileges both by Land and Sea; which sheweth them, in those days, to have improved the advantage of the river for traffick. These Immunities were twice confirmed by King Henry 8. and by Act of Parliament 34 and 35 of his reign, Beawdley was annexed to the County of Worcester. King James 1. granted them a Charter by the name of the Bailiffs and Burgesses of Beawdley, gave them one Burgess to represent them in Parliament..
The former, Kidderminster, which is also call'd Kiddelminster, lies over against it on the East-side, but at a greater distance from the river; which is a neat town, and a market well furnish'd with all commodities, divided by the little river Stour which runs through it. The greatest ornaments it hath at present, are, a very fair Church, in which some of the eminent family of the Cokeseys lye interr'd; and a fine house of the Blounts, a good family, honour'd with Knighthood, and descended from those of Kinlet. But anciently this place was of note for its Lords the Bissets, who were in their time very great men; whose rich Patrimony at length coming to a division among sisters, part went to the Barons of Abergavenny, and part to an Hospital of Leprous women in Wiltshire; which house, one of these sisters, being her self a Leper, built and endowed with her share of the estate [d]. Afterward it gave the title of Baron to John Beauchamp, Steward of the Houshold to Richard the second, who by his Letters Patents created him Baron Beauchamp of Kidderminster. Baron Beauchamp [...] K [...]dder [...]r. Soon after this, he, with many other eminent persons, in defiance of that King, was condemned and beheaded by the Barons, who making an Insurrection with the Commons, in contempt of the King's Authority, call'd all his prime Favourites to account for male-administration.
Hence Severn taking somewhat an oblique course, salutes Hertlebury, Hertlebury. a Castle of the Bishops of Worcester, [...], in old [...]glish, [...]ds or [...]cts. not far distant; and so goes on to Holt, which hath that name from the thick Woods, a castle anciently belonging to the Abtots, and since to the Beauchamps, who springing from William Beauchamp, sirnam'd the blind Baron, grew up into a very honourable family, whose estate after some time by heirs-female came to the Guises and Penistones [e]. In its passage downward, Severn feeds such a number of River-Lampreys, Lampreys. that Nature seems to have made a pond for them in this place, such as the Romans anciently invented in the height of their Luxury. Lampreys have their name from the Latin Lampetra, from licking the rocks; they are like Eels, slippery and of a dark colour, only somewhat blueish on the belly: on each side the throat they have seven holes, at which they receive water, having no gills at all. They are best in season in the Spring, as being then of a most delicious taste, whereas in the Summer the string within them, which doth the office of a backbone, groweth hard. The Italians do much improve the delicacy of their taste, by a particular way of dressing them. First they kill the fish inVino Cretico. Malvesey, and stop the mouth with a nutmeg, and reach hole with a clove; then rolling them up round, they add the kernels of filbirds stamp'd, crums of bread, oil, Malvesey and Spices, stewing them all together carefully in a pan over a moderate fire for some little time. But to instruct Cooks and Epicures is no business of mine.
Below Holt, Severn opens its Eastern bank to receive the river SalwarpThis hath its first veins out of the Lickey-hill, most eminent in the North-part of this Shire; near unto which at Frankley the family of the Littletons were planted by † John Littleton alias Westcote, the famous Lawyer, Justice in the King's Bench in the time of King Edw. 4. to whose Treatise of Tenures the Students of our Common Law are no less beholden, than the Civilians to Justinian's Institutes, Hol., which rising in the North-part of the County runs by Brome's-grave, Bromes-grave. a very considerable market-town, not far from Grafton, Grafton. a seat of the renowned family of the Talbots, which King Henry the seventh gave to Gilbert Talbot a younger son of John the second Earl of Shrewsbury, whom for his bravery in war, and his extraordinary wisdom, he also made Knight of the Garter, and Governour of Calice in France [f].
From Brome's-grave, Salwarp proceeds to Droitwich (Durtwich Durtwich. some call it) from the Brine-pits and its wet situation, as Hyetus in Boeotia from its dirty soil [g]. Here rise three SpringsSalt-springs by natures particular bounty yielding plenty of Brine [h], they are separated by a brook of fresh water which runs between them. And out of them is made the purest and whitest kind of Salt, for six months in the year, that is, from the Summer to the Winter Solstice. It is prepared in little boiling houses built about the pits. What a prodigious quantity of wood these Salt-works consume, though men be silent, yet Feckenham Forest,Feckenham Forest. once very thick with trees, and the neighbouring woods, will by their thinness declare daily more and more. If I should say that Richard de la Wich, Richard de la Wich. Bishop of Chichester, who was born here, did by his prayers obtain these Salt-springs, I am afraid some would censure me as very injurious to the Divine Providence, and over-credulous of old wives fables. Nevertheless, so great was the pious credulity of our Ancestors, that they did not only believe it firmly themselves, and transmit it in writing to us, but also upon that account paid him honours in a manner divine; when for his skill in the Canon-Law, and sanctity of life, he was solemnly canonized for a Saint by Urban the fourth. Yet before this Richard was born, Gervase of Tilbury wrote the following account of these Springs, though not exactly true: In the Diocese of Worcester there is a village not far from that city nam'd Wich, where at the foot of a little hill, there runs a stream of very sweet water. On the bank hereof are certain pits, few in number, and of no great depth, whose water is extreamly salt, which boiled in pans condenseth into very white salt. All the Country report, that from Christmas to Midsummer there comes up very strong brine, but all the rest of the year the water is somewhat fresh and unfit to make salt. And which I think more wonderful, when the water, Mr. Camden citing Gervase of Tilbury, in the margin, hath locus corruptus, and by an asterisk directs to these words, oportuni partem, which I guess should be thus corrected, oportuna parum. not strong enough for making salt, riseth, it scarce ever runs over the pit; at the season of its saltness, the brine is not in the least weakned by the vicinity of the fresh river; and yet it is not at all near the Sea. Moreover in the King's Survey, which we call Domesday-book, In Wich there be eight fats of salt belonging to the King and to the Earl, which every week of wealling yield on the Friday 16 [i] Bullions Salwarp having now entertain'd a small brook descending from Chedesley, where anciently the family of Foliot flourished, as after at Longdon, makes haste to Severne..
Not four miles lower, Severn with a slow course as it were admiring, passeth by Worcester Worcester. the chief town of this Shire, seated on its bank: and really it deserveth admiration both for its Antiquity and Beauty. For Antoninus mentions it by the name of Branonium, and Ptolemy (in whom by the transcriber's negligence it is misplaced) by the name of Branogenium, Branogenium. whence the Britains or Welsh call it at this [Page 519-520] day Cair Vrangon, and in the Catalogue of Ninnius it is Caer Guorangon and Caer Guorcon. Afterwards the Saxons called it Weogare-ceaster, Wegeorna-ceaster, and Wire-ceaster, perhaps from Wire a woody forest adjoyning. In Latin it is Wigornia. One of the first who mentions it by that name, if I mistake not, is Joseph of Exeter (the most elegant Poet of that age, whose book passeth under the name of Cornelius Nepos) in these verses to Baldwin Archbishop of Canterbury:
This city was, in all probability, built by the Romans, when to curb the Britains who dwelt beyond Severn, they planted cities at convenient distances all along upon its east-bank, just as they did [in Germany] on the south-side of the Rhine. It is seated upon an easie ascent from the river, over which lieth a bridge with a tower upon it. It was anciently fenced with lofty Roman walls, as an old parchment-roll informs us; and hath to this day a good firm wall. But its glory consists in its inhabitants; who are numerous, courteous, and wealthy, by means of the Cloathing trade; in the neatness of its buildings, the number of Churches, and most of all, in the Episcopal See, which Sexuulfus Bishop of the Mercians placed here A. D. 680. building a Cathedral Church in the south part of the city, which hath often been repair'd, and by the Bishops and Monks hath been lengthened westward, a little at a time, almost to Severn side. It is really a fair and magnificent Structure, ennobled with the monuments of King John, Arthur Prince of Wales, and some of the Beauchamps. A College also of learned men called Prebendaries, no less famous than were formerly the Priory of Monks, or College of Secular Priests, here. For in this Church, presently upon its first foundation (as in the other Abbies of England) were placed married Presbyters,Married Priests. who govern'd those Churches a long time with great reputation for sanctity; till Dunstan, Archbishop of Canterbury, in a Synod decreed,Register of the Church of Worcester, A. D. 964. That for the future all Religious men in England should lead a single life. For then Oswald, Bishop of this See, who was a most zealous promoter of Monkery, remov'd the Priests, and plac'd Monks in their room; which King Edgar attests in these words [l]: The Convents both of Monks and Virgins were destroy'd and neglected all England over, which I have determined to repair to the praise of God for the benefit of my own soul, and to increase the number of the Servants of God of both sexes; and accordingly I have already settled Monks and Nuns in seven and forty houses, and resolve (if Christ spare me life to do it) that I will go on in the oblation of my devout munificence to God, till I have made them up fifty, the number of the years of Remission. Wherefore at present that Monastery in the Episcopal See of Worcester, which the reverend Bishop Oswald hath to the honour of Mary the holy mother of God enlarged, and having expelled the Secular Clerks, &c. by my assent and favour bestowed on the religious servants of God the Monks; I do by my royal Authority confirm to the said religious persons leading a Monastick life, and with the advice and consent of my Princes and Nobles do corroborate and consign, &c. After some considerable time, when through the incursions of the Danes, and civil broils, the state of this Church was so decay'd that in the place of that numerous company of Monks which Oswald founded here, scarce 12 were left, Wulfstan, S. Wulstan. who sate Bp. of this See about A. D. 1090. restor'd it, and augmented the number of Monks to 50. and also built a new Church. He was a mean scholar even in the account of that age, but a person of such simplicity and unfeigned integrity, and of a conversation so severe and strict, that he was a terrour to ill men, and beloved by all that were good; insomuch that after his death, the Church gave him a place in the Kalendar among the Saints. Now after they had flourished in great wealth and power above 500 years, King Hen. 8. expell'd these Monks, and in their room placed a Dean and Prebendaries, and founded a Grammar-school for the instruction of youth. Close by this Church remain the bare name and ground-plot of the Castle, "Which (as we read in William of Malmesbury's history of Bishops) Ursus (made Sheriff of Worcester by William 1.) built in the very teeth of the Monks; so that the grass took away part of their cemetery." But this Castle, through the injury of time and casualty of fire, hath many years since been ruined.
The City also hath been more than once burnt down. A. D. 1041. it was set on fire by Hardy-Canute, who being enraged at the Citizens for killing his Huscarles (so they call'd his Officers who collected the Danegelt) did not only fire the City,Marianus. but also massacre all the inhabitants, except such as escaped into Bevercy a small island in the river. Nevertheless we find in the survey of William 1. that in the days of Edward the Confessor, it had a great many Burgesses, and was rated at xv hide-land; and when the Mint went, every Minter gave xx shillings at London for stamps to coin withall. In the year 1113. a casual fire, which consumed the Castle, burnt the roof of the Church also. During the Civil wars in K. Stephen's reign, it was fired once and again, but suffered most when that King took the City,Anno 15 Steph. Re [...] which he had unadvisedly put into the hands of Walleran Earl of Mellent; but at that time he could not carry the Castle [m]. However, it still rose out of the ashes with greater beauty, and hath flourished under an excellent Government, managed by two Bailiffs chosen out of 24 Citizens, two Aldermen and two Chamberlains, with a Common Council consisting of 48 Citizens more [n]. As to the Geographical account of it, it's Longitude from the west Meridian is 21 degrees, 52 minutes, and hath the north pole elevated 52 degrees and 12 minutes [o].
From Worcester taking its course westward, the river passeth by Powick, Barons of Powick. anciently the seat of John Beauchamp, whom K. Hen. 6. raised to the dignity of a Baron; whose estate, soon after, heirs female carried to the Willoughbies of Broke, the Reads, and Ligons [p]. Hence, through rich and fragrant meadows, it runs by Hanley, Hanley. formerly a Castle belonging to the Earls of Glocester; and Upton, Upton. a noted market town where Roman Coins are frequently dug up. Not far off, on the right-hand, Severn hath the prospect of Malvern Malvern hills. hills; hills indeed, or rather great and lofty mountains, for about seven miles together rising like stairs one higher than the other, and dividing this County from that of Hereford. On the top, Gilbert de Clare Earl of Glocester did anciently cast up a ditch all along to part his lands from those of the Church of Worcester; which ditch is still to be seen, and is very much admired [pp]. On the other side Severn, and near the same distance Bredon hills,Bredon hills. tho' much lesser than those of Malvern, rise with a sort of emulation. Upon these appears Elmley, Elmley-castle. a Castle once belonging to Ursus or Urso d'Abtot, by whose daughter and heir Emeline, it descended to the Beauchamps. At the foot of these hills stands Breodun, touching whose Monastery. Offa King of the Mercians saith, ‘I Offa, King of the Mercians, will give 35 acres of tributary land to the Monastery which is called Breodun in the Province of the Wiccians, and to the Church of St. Peter, Prince of the Apostles, in that place which my grandfather Eanwulf built to the glory and praise of the everliving God’.
Under Bredon hills, to the south, lies Washborn, VVashborn. a village or two, which gives the sirname to an ancient and gentile family in these parts. They lye in a spot of this County quite severed from the main body. And divers other like parcelsParcel [...] the Shi [...] severed from th [...] rest of t [...] body. lie up and down dispersed; the reason I know not, unless it were this, That the Governours of this County in elder times, having estates of their own lying near, annex'd them to the County which they govern'd [q]. A little higher [Page 521-522] runs the river Avon in its way to Severn: in this County it waters Eovesham, [...]ham. which the Monkish writers tell us had its name from Eoves, swineherd to Egwine Bishop of Worcester; being formerly called Eath-home, [...] [...]esham [...]tery. [...] the [...] 1157. and Heath-field; a very neat town, seated on a gentle ascent from the river. Bengworth Castle anciently stood at the bridge-foot, as it were in its suburbs; ‘which William d'Audeville, Abbot, recovering from William Beauchamp, did utterly demolish, and caused the ground to be consecrated for a Churchyard.’ The town is famous for this Monastery, which Egwine, by the help of King Kenred son of Wolfer King of the Mercians, built about the year 700; as also for the Vale of Evesham [...] [...]e [...]ham lying about it, and taking its name from the town, which for its fruitfulness is justly stiled the Gra [...]ary of these parts; so liberal is the soil in affording the best corn in great abundance. In more ancient times this town was very famous for the overthrow of the Barons, and of Simon Mountfort E. [...]. of Leicester, our English Cataline. He being a person of a very bad temper and extremely perfidious, taught us by experience the truth of that saying, Favours are esteemed obligations no longer than they can be requited. For when King Hen. 3. had with a liberal hand heaped all possible favours upon him, and given him his own sister to wife, he had no other returns from him, than most implacable hatred. For he raised a most dangerous war, and miserably wasted a great part of England under pretence of redressing grievances and asserting its liberties, leaving no method unpractis'd whereby he might depose the King, and change the government from a Monarchy to an Oligarchy. But after he had prospered a while in his enterprize, he, with many others of his party, fell in this place, being subdued in a pitch'd battel by the valour of Prince Edward. And instantly, as tho' the sink of mischiefs had been cleansed, a welcome peace, which he had banished, every where appeared [r]. [...]265.
Hard by, upon the same river, lyeth Charleton, [...]on. once the estate of a famous Knightly family the Hansacres, but now of the Dinlies or Dinglies, who being descended of an ancient family of that name in Lancashire, came to it by inheritanceThe Dinglies continue to this day at Charleton.. A little lower, in the primitive times of our English Church, there was another Religious-house, then Fleodanbyrig, now Fladbury; [...]. and near this Pershore, in Saxon Periscoran, named from the Pear-trees; which, as that excellent Historian William of Malmesbury informs us, Egelward Duke of Dorset, a man of a generous spirit, and wholly devoted to pious munificence, built and finished in K. Edgar's time. But alas, what vast losses hath it since sustained; part the ambition of great men hath seized, part is forgotten and lost; and a very considerable part of its possessions, King Edward and William bestowed on Westminster Then receiveth Avon, a riveret, from the north, upon which stands Hodington a seat of the Winters, of which were Robert Winter and his brother Thomas, who whenas they were in the Gunpowder Treason, &c. Dr. Holland having led me to Hadington, I cannot pass by Henlip a fair seat of the Abingtons, remarkable for the taking of Garnet and Oldcorn, two eminent Jesuits, concerned in the Powder-Plot; who after many days fruitless search, were found in a cavity of a wall over a Chimney. In the same house was written that obscure Letter to the Lord Mounteagle, by Mrs. Abingdon his sister, which gave some light into the horrid design. The present owner, Thomas Abingdon Esquire, hath in his hands a large description of Worcestershire, written by his grandfather, an able and industrious Antiquary; the publication whereof hath been impatiently expected from him above these 20 years.. Hence Avon runs smoothly down by Strensham Strensham is still enjoyed by the same family. a seat of the Russels an ancient family of the degree of Knights; and so dischargeth it's waters into Severn.
Hereabouts, in the south part of the Shire, lies Oswalds-law-hundred, [...]ds- [...]-hun [...]ed. so called from Oswald Bishop of Worcester, who obtained it of Edgar; the immunities whereof are thus registred in the Survey of England, which William the Conquerour made; The Church of St. Mary in Wircester hath a Hundred called Oswalds-low, in which lye 300 Hide-land, where the Bishop of this Church hath by very long prescription all the Services and customary duties pertaining to the Lords Pourveyance, the King's service, and his own: so that no Sheriff may hold a Court there, in any plea or other cause whatsoever. This is attested by the whole County [s].
There is a place somewhere in this County, but not certainly known, called Augustines-ac, i.e. Augustine's Oak, at which Augustine, the Apostle of the English, and the British Bishops met; and having for some time disputed about the keeping of Easter, preaching Gods word to the English,A. D. 60 [...]. and administring the Sacrament of Baptism after the rites of the Church of Rome; in conclusion both sides went away dissatisfied [t].
This Province, after the Norman Conquest, had for its first Sheriff Urso d'Abtot, Earls of VVorcester D. Abtot. to whom and his heirs King William 1. gave large possessions, together with that honour. Roger his son succeeded him, who (as William of Malmesbury reports) enjoyed his father's possessions, and was divested of them, falling under the heavy displeasure of King Henry 1. because in a furious passion he had commanded one of the King's Officers to be put to death. But this dignity of Sheriff, by Emeline Sister to this Roger, descended to the family of the Beauchamps; for she was married to Walter de Beauchamp, whom King Stephen made Constable of England when he displaced Miles Earl of Glocester. Within a few years after, K. Stephen made Walleran Earl of Mellent, Twin-brother. brother to Robert Bossu Robert de Monte. Earl of Leicester, the first Earl of Worcester, and gave him the City of Worcester; which Walleran became a Monk, and died at Preaux in Normandy in the year 1166. His son Robert, who married the daughter of Reginald Earl of Cornwall, and set up the standard of Rebellion against Hen. 2. and Peter the son of Robert who revolted to the French in 1203. used only the title of Earl of Mellent, as far as I have observed, and not of Worcester. For K. Hen. 2. who succeeded Stephen, did not easily suffer any to enjoy those honours under him, which they had received from his enemy. For as the Annals of the Monastery of Waverley have it, he deposed the titular and pretended Earls, among whom K. Stephen had indiscreetly distributed all the Revenues of the Crown. After this, till the time of K. Rich. 2. I know of none who bore the title of Earl of Worcester. He conferred it upon Thomas Percy; who being slain in the Civil wars by Hen. 4. Richard Beauchamp, descended from the Abtots, received this honour from K. Hen. 5. After him, who died without heirs male, John Tiptoft, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, was created Earl of Worcester by K. Hen. 6. And he presently after siding with Edward 4. and accommodating himself with a blind obedience to the humour of that Prince, became the Executioner of his vengeance, till he in like manner lost his own head when Hen. 6. was restored. But K. Edward having recovered the Crown, restored Edward [Tiptoft] his son to all again. He died without issue, and the estate was divided among the sisters of that John Tiptoft who was Earl of Worcester,Orig. 1 H. 7. R. 36. who were married to the Lord Roos, Lord Dudley, and Edmund Ingoldsthorp; whereupon Charles Somerset, natural son of Henry Duke of Somerset, was honoured with that title by K. Hen. 8. to whom, in a direct line, have succeeded Henry, William, and Edward, who is now living, and among his other vertuous and noble qualities, is to be honoured as a great Patron of good literature.
This County hath 152 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to WORCESTERSHIRE.
[a] AFTER the Britains were expell'd this nation by the Conquering Saxons, they retir'd beyond the Severn, and defended their new Territories against the encroaching Enemy. So that the County of Worcester, with those other through which that large river runs, were for a long time the frontiers between the two people. And (Breviar. f. 26. p. 1. as Mr. Twine has observ'd) most of the great cities that lye upon the East-shore of Severn and Dee, were built to resist the irruptions of the Britains, by the Romans or Saxons, or both; like as the Romans erected many places of strength on the West-shore of the Rhine, to restrain the forcible invasions of the Germans into France.
[b] The people of those parts in Bede's time, before England was divided into Counties, were (as our Author observes) term'd Wiccii, as also were some of their neighbours. But the great question is, how far that name reach'd; the solution whereof is not attempted by Mr. Camden. They seem to have inh [...]bited all that tract, which was anciently subject to the Bishops of Worcester, that is, all Glocestershire on the East-side Severn, with the city of Bristol; all Worcestershire, except 16 parishes in the North-west-part, lying beyond Aberley-hills, and the river Teme; and near the South-half of Warwickshire with Warwick-town. For as under the Heptarchy at first there was but one Bishop in each kingdom, and the whole realm was his Diocese; so upon the subdividing the kingdom of Mercia into five Bishopricks, An. Dom. 679. (of which Florentius Wigorniensis saith Wiccia was the first,) doubtless the Bishop had the entire Province under his jurisdiction, and accordingly he was stil'd Bishop of the Wiccians, and not of Worcester. This will appear more probable yet from a passage inP. 559. edit. Lond. quarto. Florentius, who saith that Oshere, Vice-Roy of the Wiccians, perswaded Aethelred, King of Mercia, to make this division, out of a desire that the Province of Wiccia, which he govern'd with a sort of Regal power, might have the honour of a Bishop of its own. This being effected, his See was at Worcester, the Metropolis of the Province, which according toHist. Ecel. lib. 2. cap. 2. Bede, border'd on the Kingdom of the West-Saxons, that is, Wiltshire and Somersetshire; and Coteswold-hills lye in it, which in Eadgar's Charter to Oswald is call'd Mons Wiccisca, or Wiccian-hill, tho'Concil. Tom. 1. p. 433. Spelman reads it corruptly Monte Wittisca, and theMonast. Angl. T. 1. p. 140. Monasticon more corruptly Wibisca. Moreover Sceorstan, which possibly is the Shire-stone beyond these hills, is said byFlor. p. 385. 4o. Florentius to be in Wiccia.
[c] Having premi's thus much concerning the ancient Inhabitants of those parts, let us next with Mr. Camden go thorow the County it self. In the very North-point whereof lies Stourbridge, Stourbridge. so nam'd from the river Stour upon which it stands: a well-built market-town, and of late much enrich'd by the iron and glass-works. King Edward the sixth sounded and liberally endow'd a Grammar-school here; and in our time, near this place, the pious munificence of Tho. Foley Esq erected a noble Hospital, and endow'd it with Lands for the maintenance and education of 60 poor Children, chosen mostly out of this and some neighbour parishes. They are instructed in Grammar, Writing, Arithmetick, &c. to fit them for trades. Their habit and discipline are much like that of Christ's Hospital in London.
[d] Going along with the Stour, not far from its entrance into the Severn we meet with Kidderminster, Kidderminster. famous for the Bissets Lords of it, part of whose estate Mr. Camden tells us, upon a division, came to an Hospital in Wiltshire built for Lepers. This was Maiden-Bradley, Monast. Angl. Tom. 2. p. 408. which was built by Manser Bisset in King Stephen's time, or the beginning of Henr. 2. and endow'd by him and his son Henry long before the estate was divided among daughters.Dugd Baronage, T. 1. p. 632. For that hapned not till the year 1241. so that the Tradition of the Leprous Lady is a vulgar fable.
[e] Leaving this river, our next guide is the Severn, upon which stands Holt-castle, Holt castl [...] now the inheritance of the Bromleys, descended from Sir Thomas Bromley, Lord Chancellor of England in the middle of Queen Elizabeth's reign. A little below, Salwarp enters the Severn: not far from the first lies Grafton, Grafton. which Mr. Camden tells us was given to Gilbert Talbot; and that hapned upon the attainder of Humfrey Stafford. Brook's Catalogu [...] of Nob [...] with Vincent's Corections, p. 471. Dugd Ba [...] T. 1. p. 334.
[f] Upon the death of Edward, Earl of Shrewsbury, Febr. 7. 1617, the last heir-male of John the third Earl of this family, the honour came to the house of Grafton, now the seat of Charles Earl of Shrewsbury, who is the next lineal heir of this Sir Gilbert Talbot mention'd by our Author.
[g] From hence this river goes to Droitwich or Durtwich, Durtwich the original whereof, says our Author, may bear some analogy to the Hyetus in Boeotia, from its dirty soil. And indeed Stephanus Byzantius in his book De Urbibus, under [...], mentions this reason of the name.See [...] sa [...] Nevertheless it is more probable, that this town in Boeotia deriv'd its name from Hyettus an exile from Argos who fix'd here: for the Greek name is not [...], but [...].
[h] Here (says Mr. Camden) arise three springs of brine; and indeed at present there are only three, but anciently, as late as King Henry the seventh, there were five. They do not observe the seasons of wealling, which our Author mentions; nor do they at any time leave off, because the brine is too weak to make salt (for the springs yield strong brine all the year round,) but only when they judge the quantity of salt made, sufficient to serve their markets, which they are careful not to overstock. They now burn coal and not wood, in their Seales. The town it self is very wealthy: it had great privileges granted it by King John, whose Charter they have to shew at this day. They were also much favour'd by his son King Henr. 3. and other Princes; particularly in this present Century K. James 1. in the 22d year of his reign, granted them a Charter. The Borough is govern'd by two Bailiffs and a certain number of Burgesses: they send also two Members to Parliament.
[i] As to the Bullions of salt, mention'd by Mr. Camden in his quotation from Domesday; what proportion that is, I cannot determine. Monsieur du Cange in his Glossary, contents himself to say in general, that 'tis a measure of Salt. I am apt to think, 'tis the same with Bullitiones in Domesday-book, where an account is given of the rent of eight fats belonging to the King and Earl at Nantwich, which paid every Friday 16 Bullitiones. (See Sir Peter Leicester's Antiquities, p. 427.) Where it follows that 15 of these made unam summam, one seam or horse-load, or 8 bushels, Spelm. Gloss. in Summa. And in Monast. Angl. tom 2. p. 256. col. 2. four sums are said to contain 40 bullions, which I conceive to be Barrows, the size whereof hath been different, at different places and times.
[k] A little below, the Saltwarp joyns it self to the Severn, and goes along with it to Worcester; Worcest [...] Burto [...] Antoni [...] I [...]inerat. p. 252. whose original is referr'd by John Rous of Warwick to King Constantius; I suppose, he means Chlorus. As to the British name of the place, Mr. Burton thinks our Author mistaken, when he names it out of Ninnius, Caer Guorangon, and Guorcon; perhaps as to the latter he is, which Arch-bishop Usher judgeth to be either Warwick or Wroxeter in Shropshire; but as to Caer Guorangon, Prim [...] Eccles. c. 5. the learned Primate agrees with Mr. Camden.
The conjecture of those who derive the name Wireceaster from Wyre-forest, is very groundless; for that forest lies near twelve miles from the city, and as much in Shropshire as in this County. Doubtless, Wirecester is a contraction of Wigora or Wigra-cester, as 'twas call'd in the days of the Conquerour, and his sons. And Wigracester it self seems to be a contraction of Wic-para-cester, i.e. the city of the men of Wiccia; just as Canterbury is of [Page 525-526] Cant-para-byrig, i.e. the burrough of the men of Kent. The difference in writing Weogora, Weogorena, Weogorna, and Wigra-cester, is of no moment; for our Saxon-Ancestors used eo and i indifferently, as, Beorhtpald Birhtpald, Weohstan Wihstan; so Weogora, Wiogora, and Wigra-cester. And the difference in termination is as little material; for as here we have Weogora and Weogorena-cester, so in Bede we have Cantpara and Cantparena byrig. The present name Worcester, is either form'd from Wircester by the change of one vowel, or else by contracting and melting the g in Weogorcester. [...] [...]or [...]er.
The name Wigornia is made like Cantuaria, by softening the termination after the mode of the Latins. Florentius, who dy'd above 60 years before Joseph of Exeter, dedicating his book to Baldwin, us'd the name Wigornia; so that Joseph, tho' he might be, as Mr. Camden hath it, one of the first, yet he was not (as some [...]on's [...]ent [...] Anto [...]. p. 252 others will have him) the first writer who call'd this city by that name.
[l] Our Author mentioning the expulsion of Secular Priests, notes in the margin, A. D. 964. which is the date of King Eadgar's Charter in the Church of Worcester. This date, tho' very nicely particular, (having the Indiction, the year of the King, the day of the month and the week,) is nevertheless manifestly false. For Florentius, the Annals of Worcester, and other monuments, with one consent fix the expulsion of the Secular Priests in the year 969. and some of them add, that Winsius was created Prior in the year 971. which Winsius is in the body of this Charter mention'd as then actually Prior, so that 964 cannot be the true date [...]. p. [...] 5 [...]2, [...].
[m] Mr. Camden is very particular in recounting the calamities of this city; amongst which we may very well reckon the plunder thereof by the Cromwellians after Worcester-fight, [...] de [...] & [...] Brit. [...]. Sept. 3. 1651. wherein the Army (consisting mostly of Scots who endeavour'd to re-inthrone King Charles the second) being routed, that Prince was wonderfully conceal'd till he could make his escape into France.
[n] He next gives us in short the civil Administration of the city; but since that time, by virtue of a Charter of King James 1. dated Octob. 2. in the 19th year of his reign, this City is govern'd by a Mayor and six Aldermen, who are Justices of the Peace (these Aldermen are chosen out of the 24 capital Citizens,) a Sheriff, usually chosen out of the said 24; likewise a Common-Council consisting of 48 other Citizens, out of which number there are annually elected the two Chamberlains. They have also a Recorder, a Town-Clerk, two Coroners, &c. The City is a County of it self.
[o] Between Worcester and Speechley, on a rising ground is probably the old Oswald's-Law; which [...]d's- [...]. p. 434. Sir Henry Spelman says, signifies as much as Lex Oswaldi, and intimates the Constitution for expelling married Priests; and is follow'd in that opinion by other learned men. But it must be observ'd, that in ancient writings it is not Oswaldes laga, but law, which signifieth a knap or little-hill, and Edgar's Charter gives that name to the place where Oswald's Hundred-Court was to be kept; and the whole Hundred took it's name from thence. It is very usual for Hundreds to be denominated from a hill, a field, a tree, a stone, or a cross, where the Court is call'd. In this Charter there is mention of Ulferes law and Cuthburges law Hundreds, now swallow'd up in Oswald's law; and in other Counties the names of Hundreds often terminate in law, as in Herefordshire, Radlaw and Wormlaw Hundreds. On the rising ground before-mention'd the Hundred-Court is still call'd.
[p] Below Powick, on the Eastern-bank of the Severn, stands Kemsey, [...]sey. an ancient manour of the Bishops of Worcester, where before the Conquest, and many Ages after, they had a noble Palace, which hath been long since demolish'd, so that the ruins are not discernable.
About three miles Southward is Cromb D'abetot, [...]mb [...]etot. nam'd from Urso d'Abetot anciently Lord thereof, now the chief seat of the Lord Coventry; and the adjoyning Church is the burial place of the family. About two miles on the West-side of the Severn, is Great Malvern, Great Malvern. an Abbey seated at the foot of the hill, which was founded by one Aldwin a Hermite, in the eighteenth year of the Conquerour's reign; and himself with King Henry his son were benefactors to it. This house was of the Benedictine-Order, and a Cell belonging to Westminster-Abbey. A very fair Church is yet remaining, which serves the Parish, but almost nothing is left to maintain a Minister.
Two miles South from this lies Little Malvern, Little Malvern. in a dismal cavity of the hill. It was founded An. Dom. 1171. by Joceline and Edred, two brothers, who were successively Priors of the house; which was also of the Benedictine-Order, and a Cell of the Monastery of Worcester.
[pp] When our Author observes, that a ditch was drawn to divide the lands of the Earl of Glocester from those of the Church of Worcester, it is a mistake for Hereford. For that Church hath several manours on the West-side Malvern-hills, andAngl. Sacr. Annal. Wig. A.D. 1278. p. 503. there was a famous quarrel between Thomas de Cantilupe Bishop of Hereford, and this Earl, touching some lands claim'd by the Bishop in Malvern-chace; and the Judges who were to decide that controversie, sate in the Chace.
[q] Mr. Camden observes, that Washbourn Washbourn under Bredon-hills, with some other villages in this County, are quite sever'd from the main body: the reason whereof may be too obscure, to attempt a positive account of it. But it is worthy our observation, that in fact all these dismembred parts, except Dudley, were originally Church-lands. Old Barrow environ'd by Warwickshire, belong'd to Evesham-Abbey, Alderminster to Pershore. All the rest were the lands of the Bishop and Church of Worcester, before the division of England into Counties; and tho' several of these have been alienated many ages, yet they are still in Oswaldslow Hundred; as Olb-barrow is in the Hundred of Blackenhurst, and Alderminster in Pershore Hundred; but the foundation of the last Abbey is later than the division into Shires. As for Dudley, the Castle stands in Staffordshire, but the Church and Town in this County. Before the Conquest, Edwin Earl of Mercia, had both town and castle, which were given to William Fitz-Ausculf, from whom through several hands they are come to the Lord Ward, heir of the last Lord Dudley by his mother, after whose decease he will also bear the title of the Lord Dudley. It appears that above 450 years ago, the town and castle were under different Civil Jurisdictions, as at present, and the Ecclesiastical Jurisdiction was settled by the Pope's Mandate between the Bishops of Worcester and Lichfield, according to the limits of the two CountiesVide Annal. Wigorn. ad An. 1238 in Angl. Sacr. T. 1. p. 490..
[r] As we have follow'd the Severn thus far, so we must return towards the North along the Avon, upon which lies the town of Evesham, an ancient Borough, enjoying many privileges, some by prescription, and others by divers Charters; govern'd by two Bailiffs till the third year of King James 1. who at the request of Prince Henry, granted them a new Charter, giving the chief Magistrate the title of Mayor, and making the Corporation to consist of seven Aldermen, twelve capital Burgesses, a Recorder, and Chamberlain, who are all of the Common-Council; as also four and twenty other Burgesses call'd Assistants; and extended their jurisdiction over the adjoyning parish of Bengworth. He likewise granted them more ample privileges, particularly power to try and execute Felons within the Borough. It sends two Burgesses to Parliament.
[s] Hereabouts, on the South-part of the County, Mr. Camden places Oswaldslaw-hundred: but that is a mistake; for this Hundred is not one continu'd tract of ground, but consists of Townships scatter'd in all parts of the County, where the Bishop or Monastery of Worcester had lands, at the time when King Edgar granted that Charter to Oswald. This is evident to any person who observes the places nam'd in that Charter, as it is printed inVol. 1. p. 433. Spelman's Councils, and in theVol. 1. p. 140. Monasticon Anglicanum. It is esteem'd a full third part of the County, but at this day doth not enjoy a third part of that Hundred.
[t] After our Author has run through this Shire, he tells us that Augustine's Oak is somewhere in the County, but the place not certainly known. Some conjectures have been offer'd at the precise place. Sir Henry Spelman thinks there are some footsteps of the name in Ausric, a village in this County bordering on Herefordshire, which (as he expounds Huntingdon) lies in the confines of the Wiccians and the West-Saxons. The name of this village he supposes may be a contraction of Austines ric, i.e. Austin's territory. But to omit some other material objections, 'tis certain that the vulgar maps deceiv'd that learned Knight, which are false printed, and should be Aulfrick; which name at its full length in old writings is Alfredes-wic: but his own mistake is less pardonable, in making Herefordshire a province of the West-Saxons. Others have conjectur'd that Austins-Oak may have been in a parish call'd corruptly the Rock, but doubtless by our Saxon Ancestors þaere ac, and in Latin Aka. Now this parish lies in that part of the Shire which is most remote from the West-Saxon kingdom, bordering on Shropshire. All the light we have, is from Bede, who is the only writer within 400 years of the time, that mentions this congress. He says, it was in the confines of the Wiccians and West-Saxons. He doth not say it was in Wiccia, much less that it was in that part of the Province which is now call'd Worcestershire; but that it was in the confines of the West-Saxons, upon whom Worcestershire doth not border any where. So that admitting this Oak to be in Hwiccia, it must needs have stood in that part of Glocestershire which bounds the Counties of Wilts and Somerset, Provinces of the West-Saxon Kingdom.
[u] Mr. Camden having left the west-side of this County in a manner untouch'd; it will be necessary to give a more particular view thereof. The river Teme, Teme. in Latin Temedus, waters the north-west part of this Shire, taking its course into the Severn through rich meadows; and the soil on both sides produceth excellent Syder, and Hops in great abundance.
On the edge of Shropshire, the river gives its name to Temebury, a small, but well-frequented market-town. This town, with most of the Lands between Teme and Herefordshire, were held by Robert Fitz Richard, Lord of Ricards Castle, whose son Hugh marrying Eustachia de Say a great heiress, the issue of that match took the sirname of Say. These Lands, by Margery an heir-female, came to Robert Mortimer about K. John's time; and the issue-male of the family of Mortimers failing, the patrimony was divided between two daughters; the elder of which being marry'd to Geoffry Cornwall, part of it continues in the hands of their posterity, but the rest hath often chang'd its Lords.
About 7 miles below Temebury, the river passeth under Woodbery-hill, Woodbery-hill. remarkable for an old entrenchment on the top, vulgarly call'd Owen Glendowr's Camp; which notwithstanding is probably of greater antiquity.
Hence runs a continu'd ridge of hills from Teme almost to Severn, and seems to have been the boundary of the Wiccian Province. At the foot of Woodbery-hill stands Great-Witley, G [...]e [...]t [...] ley. where is a fair new-built house, the chief seat of the Foleys, who bought it of the Russels, to whom it came about King Henry the 7th's time by marriage with one of the coheirs of Cassy, who had marry'd the heir-general of the Coke-sayes, its more ancient Lords.
Under the west-side of Woodbery-hill lies Shelsley Beauchamp, and over against it Shelsley Walsh, She [...]ey Wa [...]sh. where dwelt Sir Richard Walsh the famous Sheriff of this County at the time of the Powder-plot, who pursu'd the traytors into Staffordshire, and took them there.
A little lower stood Hammme-castle; and now in the place of it a fair seat, which the ancient family of the Jeffreys have enjoy'd about 200 years. Hence, by Martley, Teme passeth under Coderidge, Coderi [...] a manour of the Berkleys, formerly the Actons, and in more ancient times belonging to the Mortimers and Says. On the opposite bank stands Leigh, Le [...]gh. a manour of the Viscount of Hereford; whence the river hasting to Powick, falls into the Severn.
Continuation of the EARLS.
Henry son of Edward succeeding his father, was created Marquiss of Worcester by K. Charles 1. which honour was after him enjoy'd by Edward his son, and Henry his grandson; who being created Duke of Beaufort by King Charles 2. the title of Marquiss of Worcester is now given to Charles Somerset his eldest son, a Gentleman of great parts and worth, who merits no less a character than that Mr. Camden gives his noble Ancestor, with whom he concludes his description of Worcestershire.
More rare Plants growing wild in Worcestershire.
Colchicum vulgare seu Anglicum purpureum & album, Ger. Park. Common meadow-Saffron. I observed it growing most plentifully in the meadows of this County.
Cynoglossum folio virenti J. B. Cynoglossum minus folio virente Ger. semper virens C. B. Park. The lesser green-leaved Hounds-tongue. It hath been observed in some shady lanes near Worcester by Mr. Pitts an Apothecary and Alderman of that City.
Sorbus pyriformis D. Pitts: which I suspect to be no other than the Sorbus sativa C. B. legitima Park. That is, the true or manured Service or Sorb-tree. Found by the said Mr. Pits in a forest of this County.
Triticum majus glumâ foliaceâ seu Triticum Polonicum D. Bobert. An Trit. speciosum grano oblongo J. B? Polonian Wheat. It is found in the fields in this County; and, as Dr. Plot tells us, in Staffordshire also.
STAFFORDSHIRE.
THE third part of that Country inhabited by the Cornavii, now Staffordshire, in Saxon Stafford-scyre (the people whereof, as living in the heart of England, are call'd in Bede Angli Mediterranei, Angli Mediterranei. bounded on the east by Warwickshire and Derbyshire, on the south by the County of Worcester, and on the west by Shropshire;) lies from south to north almost in the form of a Rhombus, being broad in the middle, but narrow and contracted towards the ends of it. The north part is mountainous, and less fertile; but the middle, which is water'd by the Trent, is fruitful, woody, and pleasant, by an equal mixture of arable and meadow grounds; so is also the south, which has much pit-coal and mines of iron;Iron. but whether more to their loss or advantage, the natives themselves are best Judges; and so I refer it to them.
In this south part next to WorcestershireOn the river Stoure stands Stourton-Castle, sometime appertaining to the Earls of Warwick, the place of the nativity of Cardinal Pole, and then Dudley Castle, &c., stands first Dudley-Castle, Dudley Castle. built by Dudo or Dodo, a Saxon, about the year 700, and so call'd from him. In William the first's time, (as it is in his Survey-book) it belong'd to William the son of Ausculphus [a]; afterwards it sell to those of Somery; and at last to [Page]
[Page] [Page 529-530] Sir Richard Sutton KnightDescended from the Suttons of Nottinghamshire., by marrying an heiress of the Someries, whose posterity, call'd from that time Barons of DudleyBut first summon'd to Parliament by K. Henry 6., grew up to a very honorable familyHere is situated Pensneth-chase, in former times better stor'd with game than at present; where are found many Cole-pits, in which (as it hath been related to me) there as yet continueth a fire began by a candle long since by the negligence of a certain grover or digger. The smoak of this fire, and sometimes the flame, is seen; but the scent oftner smelt. And other places of the like nature were shew'd to me not far off. On the confines of Shropshire, to the north-west, I saw Pateshall, a seat of the Astleys, descended from honorable progenitors; and Wrotesly, an habitation of a race of Gentlemen so sirnam'd; out of which Sir Hugh Wrotesly, on the account of his singular valour, was chosen by K. Edw. 3. Knight of the Garter at the first Institution; and therefore esteemed as one of the founders of the said honorable Order..
After this, we find memorable in this tract, Chellington, Chellington. a very fine seat, and the manour of that ancient and famous family the Giffards, The G [...]ffards. given to Peter Giffard in the reign of Hen. 2. by Peter Corbuchin, to whom also Richard Strongbow, who conquer'd Ireland, gave Tachmelin and other lands in that Country. Vulfrunes-hampton, so call'd from Vulfruna, a very pious woman, who built a Monastery in the town which before had the name of Hampton; and hence for Vulfrunes-hampton, it is corruptly call'd Wolverhampton; W [...]lverhampton. which is chiefly remarkable for the College there, annex'd to the Dean and Prebendaries of Windsor [b]. Theoten-hall, [...]. that is to say, a house of Pagans, now Tetnall, where many of the Danes were cut off in the year 911. by Edward the elder [c]. Weadesburg, now Weddsborrow, Weddsbor [...]ow. heretofore fortified by Aethelfleda Governess of the Mercians; and Walsall none of the meanest market-towns. Near this lies the course of the river Tame, Tame. which rising not far off, runs for some miles on the east-side of this County toward the Trent, passing at some small distance by Draiton Basset, [...]set. the seat of the Bassets, who are descended from one Turstin Lord of this place in the reign of Hen. 1. and grown up into a numerous and famous family. For this is the stock, from which the Bassets of Welleden, Wiccomb, Sapcott, Chedle, and others of them, are propagated. But of these Bassets of Draiton, Ralph was the last, a very eminent Baron, who marry'd the sister of John Montfort Duke of Bretagne, and died without issue in the reign of Rich. 2.
From hence the Tame passing thro' the bridge at Falkesley, over which an ancient Roman-way lay, runs by the lower part of Tamworth, [...]mworth. in Saxon Tamapeord, in Marianus Tamawordina, so situated between the borders of the two Shires, that the one part of it which formerly belong'd to the Marmions, is counted in Warwickshire; the other, which belong'd to the Hastings, is reckon'd in this County. It takes its name from the river Tame which runs by it, and the Saxon word Weorth, which signifies a [...]tim. yard or farm, and also a river-island, or any place surrounded with water; as, Keysers-wert and Bomelsweort, in Germany, signifie Caesar's-Island and Bomelus's Island. In the time of the Mercian Kingdom, this was a royal seat, and, as it is in the Lieger-book of Worcester, a very eminent place. Afterwards it was destroy'd in the Danish wars, but rebuilt by Aethelfleda the Mercian, and Editha the daughter of King Edgar, who declining marriage for the love of Chastity, is kalender'd among the she-saints, and founded a little house for Nuns here; which was some few years after translated to Pollesworth by the Marmions of Normandy, when they built a Collegiate Church here, wherein some of their tombs are still extant, having had the town given them by William the Conquerour. Here likewise they built a neat Castle, which from them went by the Frevils to the Ferrars, a family descended from a younger brother of the Barons Ferrars of Groby. These Marmions (as 'tis in history) were hereditary Champions to the Kings of England.King's [...]ons. [...] of [...]. For upon every Coronation of a new King of England, the heir of this family was bound to ride arm'd in compleat harness into the King's hall, and in a set form challenge any man to duel, that would dare to withstand the King's right. And this is certain from the Publick Records, that Alexander Frevill, in the reign of Edward 3.Ed. 3. held this same castle by that kind of service. Yet the Frevills lost this honor in the Coronation of Rich. 2.When Baldwin Frevil inhibited his petition for the same, it was adjudg'd from this family to Sir John Dimock his Competitor, descended also from Marmion, and producing more authentick Records and Evidences. which went by marriage to the family of Dimocks in Lincolnshire [d].
But now to return:Watlingstreet. at the bridge of Falkesley already mention'd, that military Roman-way, which I have often before spoke of, and shall have occasion still to take notice of hereafter, enters this County, and crossing it almost in a streight line, runs westwardly to Shropshire. I survey'd it very accurately, in hopes of finding Etocetum, E [...]ocetum. which Antoninus makes the next Station after Manvessedum: and with good luck I have at last found it; and must ingenuously own my self to have been quite wrong heretofore. For at that distance which Antoninus makes between Manvessedum and Etocetum, I happen'd to meet with the ruins of an old city near this way, scarce a mile southward from Lichfield, eminent for the Bishop's See there. The name of the place is at this day in English Wall, Wall. from the remains of the walls there extant (which encompass about two acres of ground) call'd the Castle-croft, as if one should say, the Castle-field. Near this stood another ancient little city on the other side the way, which was demolish'd before William the Conquerour's time, as the inhabitants, from an old tradition, tell us; and they shew the place where the Temple stood, guessing it to be so from the greatness of the foundation; and produce many Coyns of the Roman Caesars, which are always the most infallible proofs of Antiquity [e]. But that which mainly makes for this point is, that the Military-way continues from hence very fair, plain, and almost without any breach, till 'tis cross'd and interrupted by the river Penck, and hath a stone bridge built over it at Pennocrucium, Pennocrucium. so call'd from the river, and standing at the same distance which Antoninus has made. The town has not quite lost that name at this day, being for Pennocrucium call'd Penckridge.Penckridge At present, 'tis only a small village, famous for a Horse-fair, which Hugh Blunt, or Flavus the Lord of it, obtain'd of King Edward 2. [f]. From hence there is nothing memorable in the County upon this roadBut at a small distance from thence is Breewood, a market-town, where the Bishops of the Diocese had a seat before the Conquest; and then near Weston is that clear —, unless it be that clear and pretty-broad lake near Weston, by which the way continues in a direct line to Oken-yate in Shropshire. And now for the middle-part of the County, water'd by the Trent; in describing of which, my design is to trace the river from its first rise, following its course and windings.
The Trent,The river Trent. which in comparison is the third best river in England, springs from two neighbouring fountainsIn the north part of this Shire, and amidst the moors or marshes. in the upper part of this County to the westward. Some ignorant and idle pretenders do imagine that name deriv'd from the French word Trente, and upon that account have feign'd thirty rivers all running into it, and likewise so many kinds of fish swimming in it, the names of which, the people thereabouts have compris'd in English rhyme. Neither do they stick to ascribe to this river what the Hungarians attribute to their Tibiscus, namely, that it consists of two parts water, and the third fish. From the rise of it, it first runs southward, with many windings, not far from New-Castle under Lime, Newcastle under Lime. so call'd upon the account of an older Castle which formerly stood not far from it at Chesterton under Lime, where I saw the ruinous and shatter'd walls of an old Castle, which first belong'd to Ranulph Earl of Chester by the gift of King John, and after, by the bounty of Henry 3. to the house of Lancaster [g]. Then by Trentham, Trentham. heretofore Tricingham, a little Monastery of that holy and royal Virgin Werburga [h]; from whence it hastens to Stone Stone. a market-town, which had its rise in the Saxon time, and its name from those Stones which our Ancestors were accustom'd yearly to heap together to denote the place where Wolpherus, that most [Page 531-532] heathen King of the Mercians, barbarously slew his sons, Vulfald and Rufin, for turning Christians. At which place, when after ages had consecrated a little Church to their memory, a town presently grew up, which the History of PeterboroughHistoria Petroburgensis. tells us was call'd Stone from these stones. From Stone the Trent runs smooth and easie by Sandon, formerly the seat of the Staffords, a knightly and very famous family, but of late of Sampson Erdeswick Erdeswick. by inheritance, a very eminent man, who has nicely enquir'd into the venerable matters of Antiquity, and is no less memorable upon this account, than for being directly in the male-line descended from Hugh de Vernon, Baron of Shipbroc, this name being varied by change of habitation,Name chang'd and alter'd as the person shifted his habitation. first into Holgrave, and after that into Erdeswick.
Here the Trent turns towards the East, with Canocwood on the South of it, commonly Cankwood, Cankwood. which is every way of great extent; and at last receives the river Sow on the left. This river rises near Healy castle, built by the Barons of Aldelegh or Audley, Barons Audley. to whom this place was given by Harvy de Stafford, as likewise Aldelegh it self by Theobald de Verdon: and from these spring the family of the Stanleys Earls of DerbyStrange it is to read, what Lands King Henry 3. confirm'd to Henry Audeley, which were bestow'd on him through the bounty of the Peers and even of private Gentlemen, not only in England, but also in Ireland, where Hugh Lacy Earl of Ulster gave him Lands, together with the Constablish? of Ulster; so that without doubt he was either a person of singular virtue, or a very great Favourite, or an able Lawyer, or perhaps was endu'd with all these qualifications. His posterity were all [...]d in marriage with the heirs of the Lord Giffard of Brimsfield, of Baron Martin Lord of Keimeis and Barstaple; as also a younger brother of this house with one of the heirs of the Earl of Glocester, who was by King Edward 3. created Earl of Glocester. About which time James Lord Aualey acquir'd a very great reputation on the account of his valour and skill in war-like affairs, who (as it is related by French Historians) being dangerously wounded in the battel of Poitiers, when the Black Prince with many high commendations had given to him a pension of 400 marks per annum, bestow'd it immediately on his four Esquires, that always valiantly attended him, and satisfy'd the Prince, doubting that his gift might be too little for so great service, with this answer, gratefully acknowledging his bounty: These my Esquires sav'd my life amidst my enemies; and God be think'd, my Ancestors have left me sufficient Revenues to maintain me in your Service. Whereupon the Prince approving this prudent Liberality, both confirm'd his Donation to his Esquires, and besides assign'd to him Lands to the value of 600 marks yearly. But by his daughter, one of the co-heirs to her brother, the title of Lord Audley came afterward to the Touchets, and in them continueth., but the inheritance and name descended to the Touchetts, in whose posterity and name that family is still remaining [i]. I must not go on here without taking notice of that house call'd Gerards Bromley, both upon the account of its magnificence, and also because 'tis the chief seat of Thomas Gerard, whom King James in the first of his reign created Baron Gerard of Gerards Bromley.
The Sow keeps like a parallel line at equal distance from the Trent, and runs by Chebsey, which formerly belong'd to the Lords Hastings Reckon'd among the principal Noble-men in the time of King Edward the first.; and then not far from Eccleshal, the residence of the Bishop of Lichfield [k]; and Ellenhall, which formerly was the seat of the Noels,Noel. a famous family, who founded a Monastery here at Raunton: from them it descended hereditarily to the Harcourts, who are of an ancient and noble Norman race, and flourish'd for a long time in great dignity. Of the male-line of these Noels is Andrew Noel of Dalby an eminent Knight, and the Noels of Wellesborow in the County of Leicester, and others remaining at this day [l]. From hence the Sow runs by Stafford, Stafford. heretofore Statford, and first of all Betheney, where Bertelin with the reputation of great sanctity liv'd formerly an Hermite. Edward the elder in the year 914. built a Tower upon the North-side of the river here. When William the first took his Survey of England, as it is said in Domesday-book, the King had only eighteen Burgesses here belonging to him, and twenty mansion [houses] of the Honour of the Earl; it paid [in gross] for all customs nine pounds in deniers And had 13 Canons-Prebendaries, who held in Frank-Almoin.. In another place; The King commanded a castle to be made there, which was lately demolish'd. But at that time, as it is at this day, [Stafford] was the chief Town of this County, which owes its greatest glory to Stafford a castle adjoyning to it,Which the Barons of Stafford, of whose Progeny were the Dukes of Buckingham, built for their own seat: who prevail'd with King John to erect it into a Burrough with ample liberties and priviledges, caus'd to be partly enclos'd with a wall, and founded a Priory of Black-Canons in honour of St. Thomas of Canterbury. built by the Barons of Stafford for a seat [m]. Below this the Sow is joyn'd by a little river call'd Penke, which gives name to Pennocrucium an ancient town, of which we have already made mention. Near the confluence of the Sow and the Trent stands Ticks-hall, where the family of the Astons dwell, which for antiquity and kindred, is one of the best families in these parts [n].
With these waters the Trent glides gently through the middle of the County to the Eastward, having Chartley Chartley.-castle at two miles distance on the left of it, which from Ranulph Earl of Chester who built it, fell to the Ferrars, by Agnes his sister who was married to William de Ferrars Earl of Derby, from whom descended and flourish'd the Lords Ferrars of Chartley; Lords Ferrars of Chartley. and Anne the daughter of the last of them, brought this Honour with her as a portion to Walter D'eureux her husband, from whom is Robert D'eureux Earl of Essex, and Lord Ferrars of Chartley. On the right side of this river, almost at the same distance, stands Beaudesert, Beaudesert. most delicately seated among the woods, formerly the house of the Bishops of Lichfield, but afterwards of the Barons Pagets.Barons Paget. For William Paget, (who for his great prudence and knowledge of the world, being eminent both at home and abroad, was in great favour with Henry the eighth and King Edward the sixth) having got a large estate, was created Baron Paget of Beaudesert by Edward the sixthHe was (as it may be collected from his Epitaph) Secretary and Privy Counsellor to King Henry 8. and constituted by his Testament Counsellor and Adjutant to King Edward the sixth during his minority; to whom he was Chancellour of the Dutchy of Lancaster, Comptroller of the Houshold, and by him created (as I have already intimated) Baron and Knight of the Garter, as also by Queen Mary, Lord Privy-Seal. Whose grandson William is now the fourth Baron Pagett.. His grandson Thomas, the fourth Baron, flourishes now at this day, who by his virtue, and progress in the best kinds of learning, is a grace and ornament to his whole family, and in this respect but justly distinguisht by an honourable mention here.
From hence the Trent visits Lichfield L [...]hfie [...]d. scarce four miles distant from the right side of it. Bede calls it Licidfeld, which Rous of Warwick renders a field of carcasses, and tells us that many Christians suffer'd martyrdom there under Dioclesian. The city stands low, is pretty large and neat, and divided into two parts by a kind of lough or clear water which is but shallow: however, they have communication with one another by two Causeys made over it, which have each of them their respective sluces. The South part, or that hithermost, is by much the greater, divided into several streets, and has in it a School, and for the relief of poor people a pretty large Hospital dedicated to St. John. The further is the less, yet beautified with a very sightly Church, which with the fine walls (that castle like surround it) those fair neat houses for the Prebendaries, and the Bishop's Palace, all about it, makes an incomparable shew, with those three lofty Pyramids of stone in it. This was a Bishop's See many ages since. For in the year of our Redemption 606. Oswy King of Northumberland having conquer'd the Pagan Mercians, built a Church here for the propagation of the Christian Religion, and ordain'd Duina the first Bishop, whose Successors were so much in favour with their Princes, that they not only had the preheminence among all the Mercian Bishops, and were enrich'd with very large possessions, Cankwood or Canoc a very great wood, and other exceeding rich farms, being given them: but the See also has had an Arch-Bishop, namely Eadulph, to whom Pope Adrian gave the Pall, and made all the Bishops of the Mercians and the East-Angles subject to him, being induc'd to it by the golden arguments of Offa King of the Mercians, out of envy to Jeambert or Lambert Arch-Bishop of Canterbury,About [...] year [...] Hi [...]t. Ro [...]s who offer'd his assistance to Charles the Great if he would invade England. But this Archiepiscopal dignity expir'd with Offa and Eadulph. Among the Bishops the most eminent isS. C [...] Chad, who was canoniz'd for his sanctity, and, as Bede says, when the Prelacy was not as yet tainted with excess and luxury, made himself a house to live in not far distant from the Church, wherein with a few others, that is, with seven or eight of his brethren, he was wont privately to read and pray as often as he had leisure [Page 533-534] from his labour and administring of the word [of God.] In that age Lichfield was but a small village, and in populousness far short of a City. The Country about it is woody; and a little river runs near it. The Church was but of small circuit, according to the meanness of those ancient times. When in a Synod 1075. 'twas prohibited that Bishop's Sees should be in obscure villages, Peter Bishop of Lichfield transferr'd his seat to Chester. But Robert of Limsey his successor, remov'd it to Coventry. A little after, Roger Clinton brought it back again to Lichfield, and began a very fine Church in 1148. in honour to the Virgin Mary and St. Ceada, and repair'd the castle, which is quite decay'd, and nothing of it to be seen at this day. The town within the memory of our fathers was first incorporated under the name of Bailiffs and Burgesses by K. Edward the sixth; being 52 degrees and 42 minutes in Latitude; and in Longitude 21 degrees, 20 minutes [o].Bishop Usher had rather place this Terra Conallea at Clan-conal, in the County of Down. Antiquitat. Brit. Eccl. p. 369. fol. This Lake at Lichfield is at first pent up into a narrow compass within its banks, and then it grows wider afterwards, but uniting it self at last into a chanel, it presently falls into the Trent, which continues its course Eastward till it meets the river Tame from the South; in conjunction with which it runs through places abounding with AlabasterAlabaster. to the Northward, that it may sooner receive the river Dove, and almost insulate Burton,Burton up [...] Trent. formerly a remarkable town for the Alabaster-works, for a castle of the Ferrars Built in the Conquerour's time., for an ancient Monastery founded by Ulfric Spot Earl of the Mercians, and for the retirement of Modwena [...] is also [...] Mow [...] an Irish woman. Of the Abbey, the Book of Abingdon speaks thus; A certain servant of King Aethelred's, call'd Ulfric Spot, built the Abbey of Burton, and endow'd it with all his paternal estate, to the value of 700 l. and that this gift might stand good, he gave King Aethelred 300 mancs of gold for his confirmation to it, and to every Bishop five mancs, besides the town of Dumbleton over and above to Alfrick Arch-Bishop of Canterbury. So that we may see from hence, that gold was predominant in those ages, and that it sway'd and byass'd even in spiritual matters. In this Monastery Modwena, eminent for her sanctity in these parts, lies buried, and on the Tomb these Verses were inscribed for her Epitaph:
Near Burton, between the rivers Dove, Trent, and Blith (which waters and gives name to Blithfield, Blithfield. the delicate house of an ancient and famous family of the Bagots [p]) stands Needwood, [...]edwood [...]. a large Forest, with many Parks in it, wherein the Gentry hereabouts frequently exercise themselves with great labour and application in the pleasant toils of hunting. So much for the inner parts.
The North-part of the County gently shoots into small hills, which begin here, and as the Appennine do in Italy, run through the middle of England in one continu'd ridge, rising higher and higher from one top to another, as far as Scotland, but under several names. For here they are call'd Mooreland, [...]oreland. after that Peake, then again Blackston-edge, anon Craven, next Stanmore, and last of all, when they branch out apart into horns, Cheviot. This Mooreland (which is so call'd because it rises into hills and mountains, and is unfruitful, which sort of places we call in our language Moors) is a tract so very rugged, foul, and cold, that snow continues long undissolv'd on it; so that of a Country village here call'd Wotton, seated at the bottom of Wever-hill, the Neighbours have this verse among them, intimating that God never was in that place:
'Tis observ'd by the Inhabitants here, that the West-wind always causes rain; but that the East-wind and the South-wind, which are wont to produce rain in other places, make fair weather here, unless the wind shift about from the West into the South; and this they ascribe to their small distance from the Irish-sea. From these mountains rise many rivers in this Shire; the chief are the Dove, the Hans, Churnet, Tein, Blath, and Trent which receives them all, and carries them with it into the Sea. The Dovus or Dove, Dove. bank'd with hard Limestone, which they burn to manure their fields with, runs swiftly for a great way along the East-part of this County, severing it from Derbyshire by its white clayish chanel, without any shelves of mud in it. Lying in a Limestone soil, it sucks in such richness from it, that in the very middle of winter the meadows on both sides of it look fresh and green; and if it overflows and lays the meadows afloat in April, like another Nile, it makes them so fruitful, that the Inhabitants thereabouts joyfully tell you their common rhyme;
This river will swell so much in twelve hours time, that to the great terrour of the Inhabitants thereabouts, it will wash off sheep and cattel, and carry them along with it; yet falls again within the same time, and returns to its old bounds: whereas the Trent, being once over the banks, keeps the field in float four or five days together. But now for those rivers which run into it: The first is Hans, Hans. which dipping under ground, breaks out again three miles off. The next that joyns it is the Churnet, Churnet. which runs by De-la-Cres De-la-Cres.-Abbey, built by Ranulph the third of that name, Earl of Chester. Leike noted for its Market; and then Aulton, Aulton. formerly the Castle of the Barons de Verdon Who founded here the Abbey of Croxden., from whom by the Furnivals it descended to the Talbots Earls of Shrewsbury. A little lower, the Tein, Tein. a small river, runs into the Dove, which rising not far from Cheddle, the ancient seat of the Bassets, descended from the Bassets of Draiton, runs on in a course so uneven and winding, that in a mile's riding I had it to cross four times. Near this, in Checley Church-yard, Checley. stand three stones raised Spire-like, two of which have little images cut out in them; and that in the middle is the highest. The Inhabitants talk of an engagement between two Armies there, the one with weapons, the other without, and that three Bishops were slain in that battel, in memory of whom these stones were erected. What historical truth may beveil'd under this story, I am not as yet sensibleAs for Blith, it hath in this Moorland a little castle nam'd Careswell, which Sir William Careswell built; with great ponds having their heads made of square-stones; and Draicot, which gave a sirname to a family of great antiquity in this Country..
Now the Dove After it hath receiv'd Tine. runs under a firm Stone-bridge to Utcester, Utcester. in Saxon Uttok-cester, seated upon a hill of easie ascent, and rather rich upon the account of its fine meadows and cattel, than neat and handsome in respect of building. Before I saw it, I took it for Etocetum, being induc'd to this opinion by the affinity of the two names. But now time has furnish'd me with more certainty in this matter. Afterwards where the Dove draws towards the Trent it sees Tutbury Tutesbury.-castle, formerly very large, and also call'd Stutesbury, commanding as it were the lower Country by its high situation on an Alabaster-hill; built (with the little Monastery) by Henry de Ferrars a noble Norman, to whom William the first gave large possessions [Page 535-536] in this County, which were all lost by Robert de Ferrariis Earl of Derby, upon his second revolt from Hen. 3. For tho' after the many troubles he had raised in the Barons war, he was receiv'd again into favour by the King, and then bound by a strict oath to be faithful to him for the future; yet the restless temper of this man (that he might make fortune comply by force since he could not by caress and courtship) soon after hurry'd him again into arms against his Soveraign; and being at last took, that I may use the words of the record, according to the form of his obligation he suffer'd this great loss of his whole estate and honour. There is a lake some where in this Shire, if Necham does not deceive us, into which no wild beast will enter upon any account: but since the place is uncertain, and indeed the thing more,In lib. de laudibus Divinae Sapientiae. I will only subscribe these verses of Necham's about it, intitled by him
Of another Lake also in this County, Gervasius Tilburiensis,Gerv. Tilburiensis. in his Otia Imperialia to Ocho the fourth, writes thus; In the Bishoprick of Coventry, and in the County of Stafford, at the foot, of the mountain Mahull, so call'd by the inhabitants, there is a water like a Lake very broad, in the out-grounds of a village which they call Magdalea. There is great store of wood all along upon the lake, the water of which is very clear, and so effectual in refreshing, that when the hunters have given chace to a stag or other wild beast till their horses are spent and weary, if they drink of this water in the scorching heat of the sun, and likewise water their horses with it, they recover their strength to run again to that degree, that one would think they had not run at all.
As for the title of Stafford, it has continu'd from Robert of Stafford (whom William the Norman enrich'd with great possessions,) in his posterity, till our times. A family exceeding eminent and old: and which has undergone several turns of fortune. For first they were Barons of Stafford,Earls and Barons of Stafford. Then few of them Earls. viz. Ralph created by K. Edw. 3. Earl of Stafford, who marry'd the heiress of Hugh Audley Earl of Glocester. Hugh his son, who dy'd in pilgrimage at Rhodes, and his three sons successively. Thomas and William both without issue, and Edmund who took to wife the daughter and heiress of Thomas of Woodstock Duke of Buckingham. Afterward, three of them were Dukes of Buckingham, and Earls of Stafford, &c. as it hath been before declared. By the attainder of the last of them, those ample inheritances, &c. then Earls, after that Dukes of Buckingham and Earls of Stafford. And now 'tis their ill fortune to be fallen back to their old title of Baron only; and those great estates which they have gain'd by their most honourable marriages, are as it were fled and scatter'd. In lieu whereof, they enjoy a happy security, which never cohabits with greatness and great men.
There are 130 Parishes in this County.
ADDITIONS to STAFFORDSHIRE.
AS Staffordshire has the advantage of two ancient ways running through it, which have secur'd to us some considerable remains of Roman Antiquity; so is it remarkable for several engagements and revolutions relating to the Saxon and Danish times. For the British, it is not altogether so considerable; tho' there want not some small footsteps of that people, which the discovery of such weapons as we know they formerly us'd, point out to us. But whatever curiosities or rarities it might have afforded, the world must have been in a great measure strangers to them, if it had not fallen under the search of the learned Dr. Plot, both as to it's Natural History, and also it's Antiquities, which he has given us by way of Appendix, without mixing them with the body of his work. The latter of these is our business at present, wherein he must be our greatest guide whilst we travel over this County.
[a] To begin with Mr. Camden; Dudley-Castle, Dudley-castle. he tells us, descended from Fitz-Ausculph to the Somereys; but between these two were the Paganals, whereof Gervase Paganal founded a Priory there. From that family it next descended, by an heiress, to the Somereys; from whom, by a co-heir, it came to Sir John Sutton, descended from the Suttons of Nottinghamshire: afterwards the Dudleys were possessed of it, from whom it pass'd, by the daughter and heir of Sir Ferdinando Dudley (son and heir of the last Lord Dudley) to Humble Lord Ward of Birmicham.
[b] More towards the north is Wolver-hampton, Wolver-hampton. which had by K. Hen. 3. a Fair granted to it upon the eve and day of St. Peter and St. Paul; and also a Market weekly on Wednesdays. There is in it a Free-school founded by Sir Stepehn Jennings, sometime Lord Mayor of London.
[c] From hence passing by Tetnall, Tetnall. we go to Wrottesley, Hist. of Staff. p 394. eminent for the remains of some old British or other Antiquity, whether fortification or city; tho' my Author inclines to the latter, because of the several partitions like streets running divers ways, within the limits of it, as also the large hinges which have been found there, and some of the stones squar'd. The whole contains in circuit about 3 or 4 miles; and stones of a vast bigness have been found hereabouts, whereof one made 100 loads; another, after 10 loads of stone were hew'n off it, requir'd 36 yoke of oxen to draw it, and made the great cistern in the malt-house at Wrottesley, which, tho' left very thick both at bottom and sides, will yet wet 37 strikes of barley at a time. If the historical account of the Danes here in England can assert this monument to them, I have nothing to object against it; but so far as that opinion is grounded upon Mr. Camden's interpretation of Theotenhall (which is near,) it is very false: for that name implies no more than the hall or palace of a Lord, without any necessary relation to Heathens or Christians. If the construction of Paganorum aedes were true, the argument were certainly undeniable, since every body knows, that the Danes, in all our historians, go under the name of Pagani.
Seasdon, Seasdon. upon the edge of Shropshire, offers it self next to our consideration,Id. p. 3 near which, at a place call'd Abbots, or Apewood-castle, there is an ancient fortification, standing on a lofty round promontory, with a steep ridge for a mile together, having hollows cut in the ground, over which 'tis suppos'd anciently they set their tents. The hills at each end, which seem to have been the bastions, make it probable that the whole has been one continu'd fortification. Whether it be Roman or British is not so easily determin'd; only, we know of no signal action hereabouts; which makes it more probable that 'tis British, because if it had been Roman, their histories might perhaps have left us some account of it. And Tacitus makes it plain that the Britains did fortifie as well with earth cast up, as stones, when he tells us (Annal. l. 12. c. 31.) that the Iceni chose a place septum agresti aggere, aditu angusto, ne pervius equiti foret; where the agrestis agger does most probably signifie a bank of earth.
Towards the south-east from hence, is Kings-Swinford; King's-Swinford. in which parish, upon Ashwood heath, there is a large entrenchment, that measures about 140 paces over; which notwithstanding its distance from the way, is yet, in the opinion of the learned Dr. Plot, really Roman, i.e. a tent or castrametation; made at that distance on the account of their being drawn off from their ways and ordinary quarters, to skirmish with the enemy as occasion might require. In this parish likewise, at Barrow-hill, are two uniform Barrows or Tumuli all rock; which notwithstanding, Dr. Plot thinks to have been earth at first, and turn'd into stone by subterraneal heats.
At the utmost south-borders of this County, lies Clent, Clent. famous for the death of S. Kenelm, slain at seven years of age by the contrivance of his sister Quendred.
Not far from whence is Kinfare, Kinfare. where is an old fortification of an oblong square, about 300 yards long, and 200 over. The name will answer either a Danish or Saxon original; so that to conclude upon either barely from that, is a false bottom. And the signification does not imply that any one was kill'd there. For Fare, tho' it signifies a going, an expedition, or journey; yet I am confident it never denotes passing into another world. I should rather believe that some King in his march had stop'd there, or made that his head-quarters, and so deriv'd the name upon it
Going to Watlingstreet, we meet with Hynts; Hynts. near which place is a large Roman Tumulus, now (like those at Barrow-hill) turn'd into a hard rock. There are more Roman Barrows upon this street; one at Catts-hill, two on Calves-heath, another near Great Sarden.
On the edge of Warwickshire, is Tamworth, Tamworth. which the Saxon Annals call Tamanpeorþige. In the year 781. it appears to have been the palace of the Mercian Kings, by a Grant of Offa to the Monks of Worcester, which is dated from his royal palace there. A square trench is still remaining by the name of King's ditch, which is very large. That there was a Castle before Aethelfled's time, is very plain; because, she only repair'd it after it had been demolish'd by the Danes: but by whom it was first made a place of strength, does not appear.
A little farther towards the north lies Elford, [...]lford. where is a Roman Tumulus, the description whereof, after a curious examination, Dr. Plot has given us. Level with the surface of the ground about it is a moist blackish sort of earth without any mixture of gravel or stones, about 2 yards diameter, and a foot and half deep in the middle, lying much in the same form with the Tumulus it self; on the edge whereof, the same Author observ'd ashes and charcoal in their true colours, and several pieces of bones in the middle of it so friable, that they would crumble betwixt the fingers. Which plainly proves it to be Roman, unless (which does not appear) the Saxons or Danes ever burnt their dead bodies.
[e] Upon the Roman-way near Lichfield, we find a village call'd Wall, which is suppos'd to have taken that name from the fragments of an old wall upon the north-side of Watlingstreet. Mr. Camden does rightly suppose it to be the Etocetum [a] Etocetum. of Antoninus, and the two ancient pavements wherein there appear Roman bricks, with the remains of Antiquity discover'd at Chesterfield on the other side of the way, put it beyond all dispute.
[f] The next Station in this County is Pennocrucium, Pennocrucium. which Mr. Camden had encouragement enough, both from Antoninus's distances, and the affinity of the old and new names, to settle at Penkridge; Penkridge. and yet one objection (it's lying from the Great way at least two miles) considering the design of these Stations, goes very hard against it. Stretton (as Dr. Plot has settl'd it) which has the advantage of standing upon the Way, may, no doubt, lay a juster claim to it. The name too favours the conjecture; for a little experience will teach any one thus much, that where Street or Chester is part of the name, a man shall seldom lose his labour in the search after Antiquities.
A little below the Way southward, near Fetherstone in the parish of Brewood, was found a brass-head of the bolt of a Catapulta; another was likewise discover'd at Bushbury, a third in the biggest of the Lows upon the Morridge, and a fourth at Hundsworth; all of brass, and much of the same form; which Dr. Plot has given us in the 5th Figure of his 33d Table. From this it is certain, that all these are Roman Tumuli, and probably places of some action.
[g] From the directions of the Way, let us pass to the head of the great river Trent, near which is Newcastle under Lyme, New-castle under Lyme. built in Hen. 3.'s time by the Earl of Lancaster, and so call'd, in respect of another at a little distance, Chesterton under Lyme, where Mr. Camden found an old Castle half demolish'd; but now nothing but some very obscure remains are to be seen.
[h] From hence the river leads us to Darlaston; Darlaston. where in a place call'd Berry-bank, on the top of a hill, are the ruins of a large castle fortify'd with a double vallum and entrenchments, about 250 yards diameter. This, according to tradition, was the seat of Ulfere King of Mercia, who murther'd his two sons for embracing Christianity. The whole passage at large see in Dr. Plot's History of Staffordshire, p. 407. The next place we meet with memorable, is Cank Cank. or Cannockwood, upon the edge whereof, in the park at Beaudesart, there remains a large fortification call'd the Castle-hill, encompass'd with a double agger and trench, which are in a manner circular, except on the south-east side. What Dr. Plot conjectures, is highly probable, that it was cast up by Canutus, when he made such dismal waste of those parts, as our Historians talk of.
[i] Our next guide is the river Sow, about the head whereof is Blore heath, Blore heath where a stone, set up in memory of James Lord Audley, deserves our notice. He was slain in that place fighting against the Earl of Salisbury in the quarrel of Hen. 6. in which battel no less than 2400 were slain upon the spot.
[k] From hence this river directs us to Eccleshall, Eccleshall. the castle whereof was either built from the foundation, or at least repair'd, by Walter de Longton Bishop of Lichfield and Lord High Treasurer of England, in the reign of Edw. 1. Not far from which is Wotton, where is a high-pav'd way, which Dr. Plot imagines to have been a Roman Via Vicinalis, or by-way from one town to another.
[l] Going nearer to Stafford, we meet with Ellenhall, Ellenhall. famous for the family of the Noels; of the male-heirs whereof are still remaining those of Hilcote-Hardby, as also Baptist Earl of Gainsburrough, and some others.
[m] Nearer the Trent, upon the same river, lies Stafford, Stafford. where Ethelfled the Mercian Queen built a Castle, whereof there is nothing remaining; that upon the hill, at a mile's distance from the town, being built by Ranulph or Ralph the first Earl of Stafford, a long time after. And Mr.View of Staffordshire. Erdswick concludes, he only re-edify'd the Castle, and not new built it, because he had seen a certain Deed dated from the Castle near Stafford long before the days of Earl Ralph. But Dr. Plot is of opinion, that the old Castle there mention'd might rather stand within the entrenchment at Billington, which perhaps (says he) may be only the remains of this Castle; the lands wherein these entrenchments are, being not far distant, and still remaining a part of the demesne land of the Barony of Stafford.
[n] Near the meeting of Sow and Trent is Tixal; not far from whence stands Ingestre, Ingestre. an ancient seat of the family of the Chetwinds; the last owner of which (who dy'd without issue A. D. 1693.) was Walter Chetwind Esq a Gentleman eminent, as for his ancient family and great hospitality, so for his admirable skill in Antiquities, the History of Staffordshire receiving great encouragement from him. He was likewise a person of a charitable and publick spirit, as appear'd by new building the Parish-Church of Ingestre after a very beautiful manner, and also adding to the Vicarage such tythes as remain'd in his hands.
[o] About four miles from the Trent lies Lichfield, Lichfield. where a thousand Christians (who had been instructed [Page 539-540] instructed by S. Amphibalus in a place call'd Christianfield) were martyr'd, and their bodies left unburied to be devour'd by birds and beasts; from whence the City bears for their Device, an Escocheon of Landskip with many Martyrs in it, in several manners massacred. This place, since our Author's time, has given the honourable title of Earl, first to Bernard Stewart, youngest son of Esme Duke of Lennox and Earl of March, created in the 21th year of Charles the first. Being slain at the battel at Rowton-heath in Cheshire, he was succeeded by Charles Stewart his nephew, who dy'd Ambassadour in Denmark in 1672. About two years after, the title was conferr'd upon Edward Henry Lee, created June 5. 1674. Baron of Spellesbury, Vicount Quarendon, and Earl of Lichfield.
Not far from hence is Streethey, Streethey. the name whereof seems to be taken from its situation upon the old way, call'd Ikenild-street; Plot's Staffordshire, p 402. and its distance from Streeton (another town lying upon the same road, and claiming the same antiquity on account of its name) being about 12 miles, makes it reasonable enough to suppose that these two might be stations for the reception of the Armies in their march. Upon the east side of the road, between Streethey and Burton, stands Eddingal, Eddinghall. where is a rais'd way, pointing towards Lullington in Derbyshire, which Dr. Plot is of opinion might probably be one of the Roman Viae vicinales, or by-roads, which they had beside their great high-ways, for the convenience of going between town and town.
[p] More to the West is Blithfield, Blithfield. the seat of the Bagotts, as Mr. Camden tells us. It came into this family by the marriage of the daughter and heir of Blithfield, in the reign of Edward the second. Before which time they were seated at the neighbouring village of Bagotts-Bromley. From this family were also descended the ancient Barons of Stafford, afterwards Dukes of Buckingham. Farther Northward, and not far from Checkley, by a small brook call'd Peak, are the stately ruins of Croxden-Abbey, Croxden-Abbey. formerly a Monastery of Cistercian Monks, founded by Theobald de Verdon, a Norman Baron, about the time of Henry the second.
Continuation of the LORDS.
After Edward Stafford last Duke of Buckingham of that name, there were three of that family, who enjoy'd the title of Lords Stafford, Henry, Edward, and another Henry: the daughter of the last being marry'd to William Howard, son of Thomas Earl of Arundel and Surrey, King Charles the first created this her husband, Nov. 1640. Viscount and Lord Stafford.
More rare Plants growing wild in Staffordshire.
The mountainous part of this Country, called the Moorelands, produceth the same plants with the Peak-Country of Derbyshire. The more depressed and level parts, with Warwickshire.
At a village called Worton in this County, about two miles distant from Newport in Shropshire grow in plenty the
Abies Ger. Park. faemina, sive [...] J. B. The female or Yew-leav'd Firr-tree: which whether they were native of this place, or anciently planted here, is some question. That they were natives Dr. Plot gathers not only from their disorderly natural situation, and excessive height, to which planted trees seldom arrive, but chiefly from the stools or stumps of many trees which he suspects to have been Firrs found near them, in their natural position in the bottoms of Mosses and Pools, (particularly of Shebben-pool) some of the bodies whereof are daily dug up at Laynton, and in the old Pewet-pool in the same parish where these now grow.
Sorbus Pyriformis D. Pitt. The Pear-like Service. I have already declared my opinion, that this is no other than the common Service-tree. Dr. Plot tells us that it grows in the Moorelands at many places.
Sambucus fructu albo Ger. Park. fructu in umbella viridi C. B. acinis albis J. B. White-berried Elder. In the hedges near the village of Combridge plentifully. Dr. Plot hist. nat. Staff.
Tripolium minus vulgare. The lesser Sea-star-wort. Said to grow in the grounds of Mr. Chetwynd of Ingstree, within two miles of Stafford, in a place call'd the Marsh, near the place where the brine of it self breaks out above ground, frets away the grass, and makes a plash of Salt-water. Dr. Plot. hist. nat. Staff.
SHROPSHIRE.
THE fourth division of that Country which (as 'tis generally believ'd) the Cornavii did inhabit, was known in the Saxons time by the name ofIt is called in the Saxon Annals, Scrobbes-byrig-scyre, and Scrobb-scire; as by the later writers Scropscire, and Salopschire; and others nearer our times, Schropshire. Sciryp-scyre and Shrobbe-scyre, which we call Shropshire, and the Latins Comitatus Salopiensis. It much exceeds the rest in compass, and is not inferiour to any of them in the fruitfulness of its soil, or the pleasure it affords. 'Tis bounded on the East by Staffordshire, on the West by Montgomeryshire and Denbyshire, on the South by Worcestershire, Herefordshire, and Radnorshire, and Northward by Cheshire. 'Tis environ'd on every side with towns and castles [a], being a frontier County, or (as Siculus Flaccus words it) Ager arcifinius, of great use in checking the excursions of their Welsh neighbours; from whence, the borders of it towards Wales were call'd in the Saxon Language the Marches, The Marches. being the limits between them and the English. In this Country some Noblemen were intitled Barones Marchiae, See the Catalogue of them in Radnorshire. Lords Marchers,Lords Marchers. who exercis'd within their respective liberties a sort ofWhat a Palatinate Jurisdiction is, see in the Additions to Cheshire. Palatinate jurisdiction, and held Courts of Justice to determine Controversies among their neighbours, and prescrib'd for several privileges and immunities; one of which was, that the King's Writs should not run here in some Causes. But notwithstanding that, whatever controversie arose concerning the right of Lordships, or their extent, such were only determinable in the King's Courts of Justice. We find these stil'd formerly Marchiones de Marchia Walliae, Marquisses of the MarchesMarquisses of the Marches. of Wales, as appears by the red book in the Exchequer, where we read, that at the Coronation of Queen Eleanor, Consort to Henry the third, these Marquisses, or Lords Marchers of Wales, viz. John Fitz-Alane, Ralph de Mortimer, John de Monmouth, and Walter de Clifford, in behalf of the Marches, did claim in their right, to provide silver spears, and bring them This privilege of supporting the Canopy, belongs (amongst other immunities and privileges) to the Inhabitants of the Cinque-port-towns. Camden in Kent. to support the square Canopy The Canopy. of purple silk at the Coronation of the Kings and Queens of England. But peaceful times and kingly power has by degrees abolish'd the private rights of these LordsWhich they enjoy'd and insolently exercis'd over the poor Inhabitants in the Marches.. Yet I would not be understood (therefore I use it as a caution) that all this Country belong'd to the Cornavii, but so much only as lies on this side the Severn. That on the other side, was peculiar to the Ordovices, who spread themselves far; some part of whose Country (as also some small parcels on this side Severn, which belong'd to the [Page]
[Page] [Page 541-542] Lords Marchers) were laid to this Shire not long since by Act of Parliament.e. H. [...]. This division of the whole Shire is the more proper and convenient, because the river Severn parts it from the West, to the South-east point. 'Tis bounded on the South-side of Severn by the river Temd, in welsh, Tifidiauc, which at some distance is joyn'd by the river Colun, The river [...]. in welsh Colunwy, but for shortness Clune; and riseth higher up in the Country, not far from a well-frequented little town, call'd Bishops-castle, B [...]h ps [...]astle. because it belong'd to the Bishops of Hereford, whose Diocese takes in a great part of this Shire. It gives denomination to Colun or Clune-castle,Clune-castle. which was built by the Fitz-Alans, who were descended from one Alan the son of Flaold a Norman, and were afterwards Earls of Arundel, at such time as they were Lords Marchers here, and annoy'd the Welsh-men with their frequent inroads: but where it meets the river Temd, among several dangerous fords, arisethe a hill of great antiquity, call'd Caer Caradock, Caer Cara [...]oc. because about the year of our Lord 53, Caratacus a renown'd British King,King Caratacus. inviron'd it with a bulwark of stone, and defended it gallantly against Ostorius [...] and the Roman Legions; [...] till they, by making a breach with no great difficulty in so slight a stone-work, (some ruins of which are yet to be seen) forc'd the disarm'd Britains to betake themselves to the tops of the Mountains. The King himself escap'd by flight, but his wife, daughter, and brethren were taken prisoners; yet was not his escape successful, (there being no security against ill destiny,) for afterwards he was deliver'd up to Ostorius by Queen Cartismandua (with whom he had intrusted himself) and carried to Rome; where, notwithstanding he had engag'd the Romans in so tedious and toilsome a war, he procur'd his pardon and his familie's of Claudius Caesar by no base or precarious sollicitation, but by a noble and majestick freedom of address. [...] For the taking this hill, and Caratacus prisoner, a triumph was decreed to Ostorius; nor did the captive King seem a less prize to the Senate, than the two Royal Prisoners, Syphax, whom P. Scipio, and Perses, whom L. Paulus presented to the Romans. And notwithstanding our sorry Historian has omitted both the account of this battel, and this gallant Britain, yet is not his memory, nor the story, extinct among the Country people. They tell us, that a King was beaten upon this hill, and in the Welsh-book call'd Triades, amongst three of the most renown'd British Heroes,With a [...]trong arm. Caradauc * Urichfras is the chief, who to me seems undoubtedly to have been the very Caratacus [b]. Next stands Ludlow, [...]udlow. in Welsh Dinan, and Lys-twysoc, that is, the Prince's Palace; 'tis seated upon a hill, at the joyning of the Temd with the river Corve, a town of greater beauty than antiquity. Roger de Montgomery first built a castle here, beautiful and strong, upon the river Corve; and from thence enclos'd it with a wall, about a mile in compass. This, when his son Robert was banish'd, King Henry the first held, and defended against King Stephen, who laid close siege to it; where Henry son of the King of Scots, being lifted from his Horse by an Iron-hook, [...]on hooks. had like to have been drawn within the walls, [...] Paris. had not King Stephen himself assisted him, and brought him off by his singular courage. Afterwards King Henry the second gave this castle, with the vale below it along the Corve (commonly call'd Corves-dale) to2 Fulk de Dinan; next it came to the Lacys of Ireland, and by a daughter, to3 Jeffrey de Jenevile [...]nevile. a Poictivin, or (as some say) of the House of Lorrain, from whose posterity it descended again by a daughter to the Mortimers, and from them it fell hereditarily to the Crown. Afterwards, the Inhabitants themselves erected a fair Church in this place, upon the highest ground in the heart of the town, the only one they have; and from this time we may date its reputation and eminence beyond any hereabouts. Tho' King Stephen, Simon de Mountford, and Henry the sixth did damnifie it much by their civil wars, yet it always recover'd it self; but more especially, ever since King Henry the eighth establish'd the Council of the Marches,The Council of the Marches. not unlike the French Parliaments; the Lord President whereof doth keep his Courts here, which seldom slacken in business; whether it be owing to the Soveraign Jurisdiction here exercis'd, or the litigious temper of the Welsh people. This Council consists of a Lord President, and as many Counsellors as the King pleases, a Secretary, an Attorney, a Solicitor, and the four Justices of the Counties of Wales.
Lower upon the river Temd we see Burford, Burford. which from Theodorick Say's posterity descended to Robert de Mortimer, and from his heirs to4 Jeffrey de Cornubia, or Cornwaile, Cornwaile. of the lineage of Richard Earl of Cornwall and King of the Alemans; whose heirs, even to our days, have bore the honourable title of Barons, but were not such Barons as might sit in Parliament. Burford is held of the King, Inq. 40 E. 3. to find five men towards the Army of Wales, and by the service of a Barony, as appears by the Inquisition. But, observe by the way, those who held an entire Barony were formerly reputed Barons, and some Sages of the Common Law will have Baron and Barony, to have been Conjugates, Baron and Barony, conjugates. like Earl and Earldom, Duke and Dukedom, King and Kingdom.
Temd here leaves Shropshire, and by its Northern Banks arise some hills of no difficult ascent, call'd Clee-hill, Clee-hill. famous for producing the best Barley, and not without some veins of Iron [c]; at the bottom of which, in a little village call'd Cleybury, Hugh de Mortimer built a castle, which immediately King Henry the second so entirely demolish'd, finding it a Nursery of Rebellion, that scarce any remains of it are visible at this day: and Kinlet, a seat of the Blunts, Blunt signifies yellow hair, in the Norman tongue. a name very famous in these parts, denoting their golden locks. This is a very ancient and honourable family, and hath spread its branches far. Then we see Brugmorfe, Bridgemorfe. commonly call'd Bridgnorth, on the right hand bank of the Severn, so call'd of Burgh and Morfe a Forest that adjoyns to it, before call'd Burgh only; a town enclos'd and fortified with walls, a ditch, a castle, and the river Severn, which with a very steep fall, flows in amongst the rocks. It stands secure upon a rock, through which the ways that lead into the upper part of the town, were cut. 'Twas first built by Edelfleda, Domina Merciorum. Lady of the Mercians, and wall'd round by Robert de f Belism Earl of Shrewsbury, who relying upon the strength of the place, revolted from Henry the first, as likewise did Roger de Mortimer from Henry the second, but both with ill success; for they were forc'd to surrender, and so were quieted. At the siege of this castle (as our Chronicles say) King Henry the second had like to have lost his life by an arrow, which being shot at him, was intercepted by a truly gallant man, and lover of his King,5 Hubert de Saint-Clere, who sav'd the King's life, by being accessary to his own death. At this place formerly6 Ralph de Pichford behav'd himself so gallantly, that King Henry the first gave him the little7 Brug near it, to hold by the service of finding dry wood for the great chamber of the castle of 7 Brug, against the coming of his Soveraign Lord the King. [d] Willeley is not far off, the ancient seat of8 the Warners of Willeley, Willey, or Willeley. from whose posterity by the Harleys and Peshall it came to the famous family of the Lacons, Lacon. much advanc'd by intermarriage with the heir of Passelew, and lately improv'd by the possessions of Sir J. Blunt of Kinlet, Kt.
Other castles and towns lye scattering hereabouts, as, New castle, Hopton castle, Shipton, and Corvesham upon the river Corve, the gift of K. Hen. 2.Lib. Inq. to Walter de Clifford; Brancroft, and Holgot commonly call'd Howgate, which formerly belong'd to the Mandutes, then to9 Robert Burnel Bp. of Bath, and afterward to the Lovels. g
Up higher stands Wenlock, Wenlock. now famous for limestone, but formerly in King Richard the second's time for a copper-mine; yet most remarkable in the Saxons time, for a very ancient Nunnery, where Milburga liv'd a devout Virgin,William Malmesb. and was buried: it was repair'd, and fill'd with Monks, by Earl Roger de Montgomery [e]10. Acton Burnell, Acton Burnel. a castle of the Burnels, and afterwards of the Lovels, was honour'd with an Assembly of Parliament in Edward the first's reign. The family of the Burnels was very honourable and ancient,Barons Burnell. and much enrich'd by the Bishop before-mention'd; but it became extinct in Edward the second's reign, when Mawd the heiress married John Lovel her first husband, and John Haudlow her second, whose son Nicholas took the name of Burnel; from whom the Ratcliffs Earls of Sussex, and some others, derive their pedigree [f]. Scarce a mile off is Langley, Langley. lowly situated in a woody park, the seat of the Leas, one of the most ancient and honourable families in these partsh. Next is Condover, Condover. formerly a manour of the Lovels, and lately of Tho. Owen, one of the Justices of the Common Pleas, a very great lover of learning; but since deceas'd, and has left behind him a son, Sir Roger Owen, a general scholar, and altogether worthy of so excellent a father. It appears by record, that this is holden of the King in chief, To find two foot-soldiers for one day towards the army of Wales, in time of war. A remark, that I think proper once for all to make, for a general information, that the Gentry of these parts held their estates of the King of England by tenure, to aid him with soldiers, for defence of the Marches, whensoever a war broke out between the English and Welsh. Near this is a little village call'd Pitchford, Pitchford. which formerly gave it's name to the ancient family of the Pitchfords; but now is in the possession of R. Oteley. Our Ancestors call'd it Pitchford, from a spring of pitchy water; for in those days, they knew no distinction between pitch and bitumen. And there is a well in a poor man's yard,A bituminous well. upon which there floats a sort of liquid bitumen, although it be continually scumm'd off; after the same manner as it doth on the lake Asphaltites in Judaea, and on a standing pool about Samosata, and on a spring by Agrigentum in Sicily: but the inhabitants make no other use of it than as pitch. Whether it be a preservative against the Falling-sickness, or be good for drawing and healing wounds (as that in Judaea is) I know no one yet that has made the experiment. More eastward stands Pouderbache castle now ruinated, formerly call'd Purle bache, the seat of Ralph Butler, the younger son of11 Ralph Butler of Wem; from whom the Butlers of Woodhall, in the County of Hertford, derive their pedigree. Below this, Huckstow forest fetches a great compass between the mountains; where at Stiperston's hill,Stiperston's hill. great heaps of stones, and little rocks (as it were) appear very thick: the Welsh call them Carneddau tewion; 12 but I dare not so much as guess that these, among others, were the stones which Giraldus Cambrensis describes in this manner. Harald, the very last foot-soldier, with a company of foot, lightly arm'd, and stock'd with such provision as the country afforded, march'd both round the whole County of Wales, and through and through it; insomuch that he scarce left any alive behind him: in memory of which total defeat, he threw up many hillocks of stones, after the ancient manner, in those places where he obtain'd victories; which bear this Inscription: ‘HIC FVIT VICTOR HARALDVS. At this place Harald was Conquerour.’
Caurse.More to the north Caurse-castle is situated, the Barony of13 Peter Corbet, from whom it came to the Barons of Staffordi; and near it Routon, Routon. very ancient, upon the western borders of the Shire, not far from the Severn, which formerly belong'd to the Corbets, but now to the ancient family of the Listers. Some time before, John L'Estrange of Knocking had it; out of ill will to whom, Leolin Prince of Wales ras'd it to the ground, as we read in the Life of14 Fulk Fitz-Warin. We find it flourishing by the same name in the Romans time, but call d Rutunium Rutuniu [...] by Antoninus: nor can it be a mistake, since the name, and the distance which he describes it to be from the famous town Uriconium, exactly concur. Near this is Abberbury-castle, and Watlesbury, Abberbur [...] and Watlesbury. which from the Corbets came to the Leightons, Knights, of an honourable familyk. It seems to have taken its name from that Consular-way and Kings high-road call'd Watlingstreet, which leads by this place into the farthest parts of Wales (as Ranulphus Cestrensis says) thro' two small towns, that are call'd from itl Strettons, between which, in a valley, some ruins are to be seen of an ancient castle call'd Brocards-castle, Brocard [...] castle. surrounded with green meadows, that were formerly fish-ponds. But these castles with some others, which are too many to reckon up here, owing their decay to length of time and uninterrupted peace, and not to the fury of war, are a great part of them ready to drop to the ground.
Now, passing over the river Severn, we come to the second division propos'd, which lay on this side the Severn, and (as is said) belong'd to the Cornavii. This likewise is divided into two by the river Tern, which flows from north to south, and has it's name from a large pool in Staffordshire, where it rises; such as we call Tearnes. In the hithermost or eastern parts of these divisions, near the place where Tern and Severn joyn, stood Vriconium; Uriconiu [...] for so Antoninus call'd it, tho' Ptolemy would have it Viroconium, and Ninnius Caer Vruach; the Saxons call'd it Wreken-ceaster, but we Wreckceter and Wroxceter. Wroxce [...] It was the Metropolis of the Cornavii, and built probably by the Romans, when they fortify'd the bank of the Severn, which is only here fordable, and not any where lower towards the mouth of it: but this being shatter'd by the Saxon war, was quite destroy'd in that of the Danes, and is now a very little village, inhabited only by country-people, who frequently plow up ancient coins, that bear witness of it's antiquity. Here is nothing to be seen of it, but a very few reliques of broken walls, call'd by the peoplem The old works of Wroxceter, which were built of hewn stone, and laid inSepte [...] plici Brit [...] nicarum dine. seven rows15, arch'd within, after the fashion of the Britains. That where these are, was formerly a castle, is probable from the unevenness of the ground, heaps of earth, and here and there the rubbish of walls. The plot where this city stood (which is no small spot of ground) is a blacker earth than the rest, and yields the largest crops of the best barley [g]. Below this city, went that Roman military high-way call'd Watlingstreet, either thro' a ford, or over a bridge, to the Strattons Stratton. before mention'd, (which name imports they were Towns seated by the high-way;) the foundation of which bridge was lately discover'd a little above, in setting a Wear (for so they call a fishing damme) in the river: but now there is no track of the Way [h]. This ancient name of Viroconium is more manifestly retain'd by a neighbouring mountain, call'd Wreken-hill, Wrekenh [...] by some Gilbert's-hill, which gradually falls into a pleasant level, and yields an entertaining prospect of the plains about itn. This hill shoots it self out pretty far in length, is well set with trees; and under it, where Severn visits it with it's streams, at Buldewas, commonly call'd Bildas, Bildas. was formerly a noted Monastery, the burying-place of the Burnels, a famous family, and Patrons of it. Above it is a Lodge, call'd Watlingstreet [Page 545-546] from it's situation upon the publick Street or military high-way; and hard by are the reliques of Dalaley-castle, [...]alaley. which upon the banishment of Richard Earl of Arundel, King Rich. 2. by Act of Parliament did annex to the Principality of Chester, which he had erected. Not far from the foot of this hill, in the depth of the valley, by that Roman military high-way, is Okenyate, [...]kenyate. a small village, of some note for the pit-coal; which, by reason of it's low situation, and that distance which Antoninus says Us-ocona is both from Uriconium and Pennocrucium, undoubtedly must be the same witho Us-ocona. [...]s-ocona. Nor does the name make against the conjecture; for it is compounded of the word Ys, which in Welsh signifies Low, and seems to be added to express its lowly situation. On the other side under this hill appears Charleton-castle, anciently belonging to the Charletons [...]harleton. Lords of Powis: and more eastward towards Staffordshire is Tong-castle, [...] formerly Toang, repair'd not long since by the Vernons, as likewise was the College within the town, which the Penbriges (as I have read) first founded. The inhabitants boast of nothing more, than a great bell, famous in those parts for its bigness. Hard by stands Albrighton, which in the reign of King Edward 1. was the seat of16 Ralph de Pichford, [...]ichford. but now belongs to the Talbots, who are descended from the Earls of Shrewsbury 17.
On the other side of the river Tern, lies Draiton, [...]raiton. upon the very banks of it; where, during the Civil wars between the houses of Lancaster and York, 1459 was a battel fought, very fatal to the Gentry of Cheshire; for tho' Victory neither turn'd her balance on the one side or the other, yet they being divided, and adhering to both parties, were cut off in great numbers. Lower down, and pretty near the Tern, lies Hodnet, formerly inhabited by Gentlemen of that name; from whom, by the Ludlows, it hereditarily fell to the Vernons. [...] Ed. 2. It was formerly held of the Honour of Montgomery, by the service of being Steward of that Honour. The Tern, after that, passing by some small villages, is joyn'd by a rivulet call'd Rodan; and after it has run a few miles farther, near Uriconium (before spoken of) it falls into the Severn. Not far from the head of this river Rodan, stands Wem, [...]em. where may be seen thep marks of an intended castle. It was the Barony of William Pantulph about the beginning of the Norman times: from whose posterity it came at length to the Butlers; and from them, by the Ferrers of Ouseley and the Barons of Greystock, to the Barons Dacre of Gillesland q. A little distant from this, upon a woody hill, or rather rock (which was anciently call'd Rad-cliff) stood a castle, upon a very high ground, call'd from the reddish stone, Red-castle, [...]ed-castle. and by the Normans Castle Rous, heretofore the seat of the Audleys, by the bounty of Mawd the Stranger or Le-strange; but now there is nothing to be seen but decayed walls18. Scarce a mile off, is a spot of ground where a small city once stood, the very ruins of which are almost extinct; but the Roman Coyns that are found there, with such bricks as they us'd in building, are evidence of its Antiquity and Founders. The people of the neighbourhood call it Bery, from Burgh; and they affirm it to have been very famous in King Arthur's days19.
After that, upon the same river, appears Morton-Corbet 20, [...]orton- [...]orbet [...]astle. a castle of the Corbets; where, within the memory of man, Robert Corbet, to gratifie the fancy he had for Architecture, began a noble piece of building21, for his future magnificent and more splendid habitation; but death countermanding his designs, took him off,r so that he left his project unfinish'd22. The family of these Corbets is ancient, and of great repute in this Shire, and held large estates by fealty of Roger de Montgomery Earl of Shrewsbury, about the coming in of the Normans; viz. Roger Corbet the son, held Huelebec, Hundeslit, Actun, Fernleg, &c. Robert Corbet the son held lands in Ulestanston, Corbet pranomen. Rotlinghop, Branten, Udecot 23. More to the south lies Arcoll, Arcoll. a seat of the Newports 24 Knights; and in its neighbourhood is Hagmond-Abbey, Hagmond-Abbey. which was well endow'd, if not founded, by the Fitz-Alanes. Not much lower, is pleasantly situated upon the Severn the Metropolis of this County (risen out of the ruins of old Uriconium) which we call Shrewsbury, Shrewsbury. and now a-days more softly and smoothly, Shrowsbury. Our Ancestors call'd it Scrobbes-byrig, because the hill it stands on was well wooded. In which sense the Greeks nam'd their Bessa, and the Britains this city Penguerne, that is, the brow of Alders, where likewise was a noble Palace so nam'd: but how it comes to be call'd in Welsh Ymwithig, by the Normans Scropesbery, Sloppesbury, and Salop, and in Latin Salopia, I know not; unless they be deriv'd from the old word Scrobbes-berig differently wrested. Yet some Criticks in the Welsh tongue imagine 'twas call'd Ymwithig (as much as Placentia) from the Welsh Mwithau, and that their Bards gave it that name because their Princes of Wales delighted most in this place. It is situated upon a hill, the earth of which is of a red-dish colour: the Severn is here passable by two fair bridges, and embracing it almost round, makes it a Peninsula, as Leland, our Poet and Antiquary, describes it.
'Tis both naturally strong, and well-fortified by art; for Roger de Montgomery, who had it given him by the Conquerour, built a Castle upon a rising rock [i] in the northern parts of this town, after he had pull'd down about 50 houses; whose son Robert, when he revolted from King Hen. 1. enclos'd it with walls on that side where the Severn does not defend it [k]; which were never assaulted, that I know of, in any war but that of the Barons against King John. When the Normans first settl'd here, 'twas a well-built city, and well frequented; for as it appears by Domesday-book25, it was tax'd 7 l. 16 s. to the King, yearly. There were reckon'd 252 Citizens; 12 of whom were bound to keep guard when the Kings of England came hither, and as many to attend him whenever he hunted; which I believe was first occasion'd by one Edrick Sueona, a Mercian Duke, but a profligate villain, whoſ not long before had way-lay'd Prince Alfhelm, and slain him as he was hunting. At which time (as appears by the same book) there wast a custom in this city, That what way soever a woman marry'd, if a widow, she should pay to the King 20 shillings, but if a virgin, 10 shillings, in what manner soever she took the husband. But to return; this Earl Roger not only fortify'd it, but improv'd it much by other useful buildings both publick and private; and founded a beautiful Monastery dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, and endow'd it liberally; as he did likewiseu St. Gregory's Church, upon these conditions, (so a private history of this Monastery expresses [Page 547-548] it) That when the Prebendaries thereof should die, the Prebends should go to the Monks. From which arose no small contest; for the Prebendaries sons su'd the Monks, to succeed their fathers in those Prebends; and at that time Prebendaries and Clerks in England were not oblig'd to celibacy, but it was customary for Ecclesiastical Benefices to descend hereditarily to the next of blood.Prebends inheritable. But this controversie was settled in Henry 1.'s reign, That heirs should not inherit Ecclesiastical Benefices: about which time laws were enacted, obliging Clergy-men to celibacy. Afterwards other Churches were here built; and to pass by the Covents of Dominican, Franciscan, and Augustine Friers, sounded by the Charltons, Jenevills, and Staffords, there were two Collegiate Churchesw erected, St. Chads with a Dean and ten Prebendaries, and St. Mary's with a Dean and nine minor Prebends. At this day, 'tis a fine City, well inhabited, of good commerce; and by the industry of the Citizens, their Cloath-manufacture, and their trade with the Welsh, very rich; for hither all Welsh commodities are brought, as to the common Mart of both Nations. It's Inhabitants art partly English, partly Welsh; they use both Languages; and this must be mention'd in their praise, that they have set up25 one of the largest Schools in England for the education of youth; for which, Thomas Aston, the first Head-School-master, a man of great worth and integrity, provided by his own industry a competent Salary [l].26 At this city, when Henry Percy the younger rebell'd against Henry the fourth, and was resolutely bent to attack its walls, which that King had made exceeding strong; by a turn of Fortune, he was prevented, and his measures broken in a trice; for the King himself was suddenly at his heels with an army: whom the rash youth engaging, after a long and sharp dispute27, despairing of success, expos'd himself wilfully to death. The place, from this battel,The battel of Shrewsbury. is yet call'd Battlefield, Battlefield. where the King afterwards built a Chapel, and settled two Priests to pray for the souls of the slain. This Shrewsbury is 20 degrees and 37 minutes distant from the Azores, and 52 degrees, and 53 minutes from the Aequator.
I know not whether it is worth my while, and not foreign to my purpose, to tell you, that out of this city came the Sweating-sickness, Sweating-sickness. in the year 1551. which spread it self throughout the whole Kingdom, and was particularly fatal to middle-aged persons: such as had it, either dy'd or recover'd in the space of 24 hours. But there was a speedy remedy found out, that those who were taken ill in the day time, should immediately go to bed in their cloaths, and those that sickned in the night should lye out their four and twenty hours in bed, but were not to sleep at all. The most eminent Physicians are puzl'd about the cause of this distemper; there are some who ascribe it to the nature of chalky grounds in England, which yet are very rare to be found here.H. Fracastorius. They tell you, That in some certain moist constitutions, the subtle but corrupt steams that evaporate from that sort of soil, which are very piercing and contagious, either infect the animal spirits, or the thin frothy Serum of the blood; but be the cause what it will, 'tis most certain, there is some analogy between it and the subtle parts of the blood, which occasions in so small a space as 24 hours, either the expiration of the Patient or Disease. But let others make their discoveries; for my part, I have observ'd it thrice in the last Age rife throughout the whole kingdom of England, and I doubt not but it has been so before, tho' we cannot find it chronicl'd. I observe it first in the year 1485, when Henry the seventh began his reign, some time after a great conjunction of the superiour Planets in Scorpio; secondly, less violent (tho' accompanied with the Plague) in the 33d year after, in the year 1518, after a great opposition of the same Planets in Scorpio and Taurus, at which time it was likewise rife in the Low-Countries and Germany; and lastly, 33 years after that, in the year 1551, after another conjunction of the same Planets in Scorpio had exerted its malignant influences. But enough has been said of this, which may be little regarded by28 such as have no appetite to this sort of experimental learning.
Near this city the river Severn has a great many windings, but especially at Rossal, where it fetchesx such a compass that it almost returns into it self. Hereabouts are those old-fashion'd boats, call'd in Latin Rates, i.e. Flotes, Flotes. made of rough timber planks, joyn'd together with light ribs of wood, which with the stream convey burthens. The use and name of them was originally brought by the English from the Rhine in Germany, where they bear the same name of Flotes [m]. Near the river stands Shrawerden, Shrawerden. a castle formerly of the Earls of Arundel, but afterwards belong'd to the most honourable29 Thomas Bromley, who was sometime since Chancellour of England: and Knocking, Knocking. built by the Lords L'estrange, from whom it came by inheritance to the Stanleys Earls of Derby. And not far off is Nesse, Nesse. over which there hangeth a craggy rock, with a cave in it of some note; this place, together with Cheswerden, King Henry the second gave to John L'estrange, Barons Lestrange 20 fie [...]. from whom are descended the most noble families of the L'esttranges of Knocking, Avindelegh, Ellesmer, Blakmere, Lutheham, and Hunstanton in Norfolk. But from those of Knocking (by the death of the last of them without issue male) the inheritance descended by Joan, a sole daughter and the wife of George Stanley, to the Earls of Derby. At a greater distance from the river, towards the western bounds of this County, lies Oswestre Oswestre. or Oswaldstre, in Welsh Croix Oswalde, a little town enclos'd with a wall and a ditch, and fortified with a small castle. 'Tis a place of good traffick, for Welsh-Cottons Welsh-Cottons especially, which are of a very fine, thin, or (if you will)Levi [...] sas, si [...] cet, v [...] slight texture; of which great quantities are weekly vended here. It derives its name from Oswald King of the Northumbrians (but more anciently 'twas call'd Maserfield Maserfi [...]) whom Penda the Pagan Prince of the Mercians (after he had slain him in a hot engagement) tore limb from limb with inhuman barbarity; which gave occasion to those verses of a Christian Poet of some antiquity:
It seems to have been first built upon a superstitious conceit;See in Northumberland. for the Christians of that age lookt upon it as holy: and Bede has told us, that famous miracles were wrought in the place where Oswald was kill'd. It was built by Madoc the brother of Mereduc (according to Carodocus Lancabernensis) and the Fitz-Alanes (Normans) who afterwards were Lords of it, and Earls of Arundel, inclosed it with a wall [n]. It is observable, that the Eclipses of the Sun in Aries, Eclipses in Aries. [Page 549-550] have been very fatal to this place; for in the years 1542, and 1567. when the Sun was eclipsed in that Planet, it suffer'd very much by fire; but after the last Eclipse of the two, a fire rag'd so furiously here, that about 200 houses in the City and Suburbs were consum'd. [...] C [...]rci [...]. Below this, * Northwest, there is a hill entrench'd with a triple ditch, call'd Hen-dinas, that is, the ancient Palace. The Inhabitants thereabouts think it to be the ruins of a City, but others judge it to have been the Camp of either Penda, or Oswald [o]. Scarce three miles off stands Whittington, Witting [...]n. not long since a castle of the Fitz-Warrens, who derive their pedigree from30 Warren de Metz, a Lorainer: he took to wife the heiress of William Peverel, who is said to have built it, and had issue by her Fulk, the father of the renown'd31 Fulk Fitz-Warren, The life of [...] writ [...]en [...]n [...]ench. whose strange and various fortune in war, was very much admir'd by our Ancestors32. In Henry the third's reign, there was a Commission to Fulk Fitz-Warren to fortifie the castle of Whittington sufficiently, as appears by the Close-rolls in the fifth year of that King's reign. The Barony of these Fitz-Warrens [...] Fitz- [...]arren. expir'd in a female, having in the last age pass'd from the Hancfords to the Bourchiers, now Earls of Bath. Below this castle, Wrenoc the son of Meuric, held certain lands by the service of being Latimer between the English and Welsh, that is, an Interpreter. This I have remark'd from an old Inquisition, for the better understanding of the word Latimer, [...]he signifi [...]ation of Lat [...]mer. which few are acquainted with, tho' it is a name very famous in this kingdom. Upon the Northern bounds of this Shire, first stands Shenton, a seat of the Needhams 33, a famous familyy; and next, White-church, [...]hite- [...]hurch. or the white Monastery, famous for some monuments of the Talbots, but more particularly for that of our English Achilles34 John Talbot, the first Earl of Shrewsbury of this family whose Epitaph I here insert, not that it comes up to the character of such an Hero, but only for a Specimen, how the stile of every age varies in framing their monumental Inscriptions.
That is, ‘Pray for the soul of the right honourable Lord, Lord John Talbott, sometime Earl of Shrewsbury, Lord Talbott, Lord Furnivall, Lord Verdon, Lord Strange of Blackmere, and Marshal of France, who died in battel, at Burdews, VII. of July, MCCCCLIII.’
These Talbotts many years ago had the Inheritance of the Barons L'estrange of Blackmere [...]rons Le [...]ange of [...]ackmere. 35 (who were sometimes call'd Extranei, that is, Foreigners) in right of their wives. For they were Lords Marchers in this County; and their seat in this neighbourhood call'd Blackmere, from a Lake of blackish water, is now almost quite ruin'd. This family was much ennobled, and their estates encreas'd, by intermarriage with a daughter and coheir of John Giffard of Brimsfield, of an honourable and ancient Family in Glocestershire, whose wife Mawd was the only daughter of Walter Clifford the third.
More36 to the East lies Ellesmer, Ellesmer. a small tract of rich and fertile ground, 1205 which (according to the Chester-Chronicle) together with the small castle, King John settled upon Lewellin Prince of North-Wales, when he made up the match between him and37 his natural daughter. Afterwards38 it came to the L'estranges, or the Extranei; but at present it has its Baron39 Thomas Egerton, who for his singular wisdom and integrity, was by Queen Elizabeth made Lord Keeper, and afterwards by King James advanc'd to the highest dignity of the Long-robe, by being made Lord Chancellour, and created Baron of Ellesmer z.Baron of Ellesm [...]r.
Now to say somewhat briefly of the Earls of Shrewsbury: Earls of Shrewsbury Roger de Belesm or Montgomery, was created by William the Conquerour first Earl of Shrewsbury; who also had the greatest share of Lands given him in this kingdom of any of his Souldiers. His eldest son Hugh immediately succeeded him, but was afterwards slain in Wales, leaving no issue behind him. Next was Robert, another of his sons, a man barbarously cruel both towards his own sons, and his hostages, whose eyes he pull'd out, and then gelded, with his own hands. But at last being attainted of High Treason, he was punish'd by King Henry the first with perpetual imprisonment, where his sufferings were answerable to the heinousness of his crimes.a The revenues of the Earldom were transferr'd to Queen Adelizia for her dower. Many ages after, King Henry the sixth, in the twentieth year of his reign, conferr'd this honour upon John Lord Talbot, who by a natural genius, as well as choice of profession, seems to have been destin'd for military atchievements. And in the 24th year of his reign, he encreas'd his honours, by adding to his title of Earl of Shrewsbury and Weisford, that of Earl of Waterford, the Barony of Dongarvan, and Lieutenancy of Ireland. He was afterwards slain in a battel at Chastillon 40 in Aquitain, with his younger son41 John, Viscount L'isle, after he had scatter'd the Trophies of Victory over the best part of France for four and twenty years together. His son John succeeded him (whose mother was a daughter and coheir of42 Thomas Nevil Lord Furnivall) but espousing the interest of the house of Lancaster, he lost his life in the battel at Northampton. From him43 descended John the third Earl of Shrewsbury, and44 Gilbert, from whom the Talbots of Grafton are descended.45 Next succeeded George, and after him Francis his son, the father of George Talbot Earl of Shrewsbury, a States-man of untainted honour, and approv'd experience in the weighty affairs of Government; whose son Gilbert at present not only supplies his Ancestors room, but supports the character too with great grandeur, and his own personal merits.
There are in this Shire about 170 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to SHROPSHIRE.
SHropshire being the Frontier between England and Wales, has had more Castles in it than any other County in England. Insomuch that aFuller's Worth. late Author says, it may seem on the west to be divided from Wales with a wall of continu'd castles; and Speed tells us, that beside several towns strongly wall'd, upon this occasion, 32 Castles have been built in it.
[a] Of the more ancient Castles, there seems to have been one at Chirbury, Chirbury. near the Severn: for Aethelfled, Lady of the Mercians, isChr. Sax. said to have built one at Cyricbyrig. Now as to the affinity between the old and new names, if we add the Norman [h] after C, the change is very easie and natural; and for the condition of the place, nothing can answer more exactly; for where should she more probably build it than here, when her main design was to secure her kingdom against the incursions of the Welsh?
[b] From hence, toward the south-east, was fought that famous battel mention'd by our Author, between Ostorius and Caratacus. And as the Action was great and eminent,Aubrey's Monumenta Britan. vol. 2. so are the remains of it to this day very considerable.
Near Lanterden, about the meeting of the rivers Teme and Clun, are two barrows, in which were found burnt bones and an urn. And a little way east of Teme, at Brandon, Brandon. is a single square work with four ports, very commodiously situated, as having near it the river to serve them with water; a thing the Romans were always careful to secure, if possible. And these are the reliques of the Romans.
As for the Britains; there is a Camp of theirs about half a mile from Brandon, at a place call'd Coxoll near Brampton-Bryan-Castle: it is now cover'd with great oaks. From hence they seem to have been beaten: and about three miles towards the north, is that large British Camp, Caer-Caradock. Caer Caradock. The trenches are very deep, and yet it is hard rock. The Rampires are wall'd, but the wall is now cover'd with earth, which if one remove a little, the stones appear.Dugd. Visitation of Shropsh. It is now vulgarly call'd the Gair, and situate upon the east-point of a very steep hill, having no access to it, but from a plain on the west part thereof. It is three times as long as 'tis broad, having its entrance to the west fenc'd with a high treble rampire. There is also a narrow passage out of it towards the east, upon the very pitch of the hill. The north-side of it is fortify'd with a deep and double trench; but on the south-side it hath but a single trench, because the steepness of that side of the hill is of it self a very good defence.
On the south-point of a high hill (a mile north of Clun) call'd Tongley, Tongley. is a large fortification, somewhat larger than Caer Caradock; it is made circular, and defended with 3 deep trenches drawn round it.
And a mile from Bishops-castle towards Montgomery, is a place call'd the Bishops-mote, Bishops-mote. where is a very steep and high hill, like the Keep of a Castle at the west end; and towards the east, near an acre of ground surrounded with an entrenchment. These are all the marks we have left of this memorable engagement.
[c] Keeping along the south-coast of the County, we come to Clay-hill, Clay-hill. where are still the remains of an ancient Camp.
[d] From whence, the Severn leads us to Bridgenorth; Bridgnorth. a name (as Leland has observ'd) but of late use, it being call'd in all ancient Records, Bridge. But the most ancient name is that given it by the Saxon Annals, Bricge; from which, by some of our later Historians it is term'd Brugge and Bruggenorth, that addition being made upon the building of some bridge over the Severn, south of this. So that our Author (I think) is mistaken, when he says, it was formerly call'd simply Burgh, implying thereby some fortification. That Castle built by the Danes An. 896. call'd in Saxon Cƿatbricge, seems to be the very same; tho' our Author and Mr. Somner are inclin'd to place it at Cambridge in Glocestershire. For 1. 'tis said expresly to be upon the Severn, whereas Cambridge is two miles distant; and beside, that was probably built to guard the passage over the Severn. 2. The Canterbury-copy reads it expresly Bricge, as the Chronicle calls Bridgenorth, which is at this day commonly nam'd Brigge. And 3. As to the former part of the word, there is a town about a mile distant call'd Quatford, and another at two miles distance call'd Quat; so that one may reasonably imagine Cƿatbricge should not be far off.
The forest Morfe Morfe. mention'd by our Author, is now a waste, with scarce a tree upon it; and the Walls and Castle he speaks of, quite ruinated. Northward from hence is Evelyn, from which place, the family of that name came into Surrey, some ages since, along with the Onslows and Hattons; where these three seated themselves near one another, and have remain'd a long time.
[e] Upon the edge of Staffordshire, is the Well of S. Kenelm, S K [...] Wel [...] to whom the Kingdom of Mercia fell at seven years of age. But Quendred his sister practising with the young King's guardians, made him away.
[f] More to the west is Acton-Burnell, Ac [...]-Burnell, famous (as our Author observes) for a Parliament there. The House of Commons sat in a barn then belonging to the Abbot of the Monastery of S. Peter and S. Paul, which is still standing, and belongs to Francis Prynce Esq.
[g] Next, the Severn carries us to the Uriconium Uriconi [...] of the Ancients; the circumference of which city-wall was about 3 miles, built upon a foundation for the most part made of pebble-stones; about 3 yards thick, and a vast trench round it, which in some places appears exceeding deep to this day. Our Author refers the decay of it to the Danish wars: and that it was burnt is indubitable; for the way the fire went is still discoverable by the blackness and rankness of the soil. But if we say this was done by the Danes, we seem to injure the Antiquity of Shrewsbury, which rose out of the ruins of it. One of those things which argue the Antiquity of the place, intimates it to be of a much more early date. The Coyns (I mean) discover'd there; some whereof are of gold, tho' but rarely found; some of stone, red, green, blue, &c. others of silver, very commonly met with; and the rest of brass, copper, and mix'd metals. They are call'd by the inhabitants Dynders, and are so worn and decay'd, that there is not one in ten found, the Inscription whereof is perfectly legible, or the Image distinguishable. Now amongst all these (as I have the account from a person who has been an eye-witness) there is not one but what is Roman; from whence we may infer, that the destruction of this city was before the coming over of the Saxons, or at latest, in their wars with the Britains; for if it had continu'd till the Danish times, there would certainly have been some of the Saxon Coyns mixt amongst the Roman. And the Saxon name Wrekenceaster (from whence the present Wroxeter flows) perhaps may imply that it was, when they came, ƿpaeced, that is, wrack'd and destroy'd; unless we say that this name is moulded out of the old Uriconium.
But whenever it was demolish'd, it has certainly been a place of great note and Antiquity: for upon searching into their places of burial, there have been teeth taken out of the jaw-bones of men near 3 inches long, and 3 inches about; and thigh-bones have been lately found by the inhabitants of a full yard in length. Their way of burying the dead bodies here (when they did not burn the corps and put the ashes in urns) has been observ'd to be this. First they made a deep wide grave, in the bottom whereof they fix'd a bed of very red clay, and upon that laid the body. With the same sort of clay they cover'd it, fencing the clay with a sort of thin flats against the earth or mould, which otherwise would have been [Page]
[Page] [Page] apt to break through it to the dead body. Lastly, they fill'd the grave, and cover'd it with great stones, sometimes 5 or 6 upon a grave, which are now shrunk into the earth. Some part of the bones thus interr'd, that have hapned to lay dry in the dust or clay, remain pretty sound to this day.
As to the urns, there have several of them been found whole in the memory of man, when they have had occasion to dig 3 or 4 foot deep in their sandy land. For as the dead corps here bury'd are in red clay, so are their urns lodg'd in a red sand.
[h] Our Author observes that Watlingstreet went over a bridge a little way from the City. And 'tis true, there is yet discernable in the bottom of the Severn, at low-water, the foundation of a stone-work; which is probably enough the remains of a bridge. But certainly, the road went through the midst of the City, and so through the ford now call'd Wroxeter-ford, as is yet plainly to be discover'd by the old Strait-way pointing exactly upon it on each side of the river.
[...]ews [...]y.[i] At some distance from hence is Shrewsbury, the Castle whereof our Author observes to be built upon a rock; and at the bottom of it's foundation it may be so, but the bank appears outwardly to be nothing but a soft mould, for the most part sandy.
[k] And he farther takes notice, that in Hen. 1.'s time, that part was wall'd which was not secur'd by the river. Now it is wall'd quite round, though not very strongly; and where the river does not fence it (i.e. on the neck of the Peninsula) is the Castle built.
[l] The School that is now there, is a fair stately stone building, erected and endow'd by Qu. Eliz. having one Master and three Under-Masters, with a very good Library. The Buildings and Library are not inferiour to many Colleges in the Universities: besides which there are very good houses for the Schoolmasters belonging to it. At about 4 or 5 miles distance, at a place call'd Grinshill, there is another School-house built of the same white stone; whither the Masters and Scholars may repair, in case any contagious distemper, or other cause, should render it unsafe for them to stay in the town.
[m] About Rossal, not far from this place, our Author mentions the Flotes: but these are seldom seen of late. Here is much us'd by the fishermen a small thing call'd a Coracle, [...]racle. in which one man being seated, will row himself with incredible swiftness with one hand, whilst with the other he manages his net, angle, or other fishing-tackle. It is of a form almost oval, made of split Sally-twigs interwoven, (round at the bottom,) and on that part next the water cover'd with a horse-hide. It is about 5 foot in length, and 3 in breadth; and is so light, that coming off the water, they take them upon their backs, and carry them home.
[n] Upon the eastern border of this County is Oswestre, Oswestre. where (asItin. MS. Leland has left it) is S. Oswald's Church, a very fair-leaded building, with a tower'd Steeple: but it stands without the new gate; so that no Church is within the town. It was sometime a Monastery call'd the White minster, and was afterwards turn'd to a Parish-Church.
[o] About a mile from Oswestre is Caerhendinas, Caerhendinas. Aubrey's Monumenta Britan. MS. a hill every way rising, the form whereof is an oblong square, encompass'd with three great works, one higher than another. The space within, is about seven acres; and the tradition is, that this place was the last retreat of the Britains.
Continuation of the EARLS.
Gilbert dying without issue-male, was succeeded in this honour by Edward his brother; but he too dy'd without issue surviving: and the chief branch of this noble family being thus extinct, George Talbot of Grafton in Worcestershire, lineal heir to Sir Gilbert Talbot, second son to the famous John, succeeded; who dying also without issue, his Nephew John Talbot succeeded Earl of Shrewsbury; he dying, left Francis his eldest son Earl of Shrewsbury, father to this present Charles, who is lately created Duke of Shrewsbury, and Marquess of Alton.
More rare Plants growing wild in Shropshire.
Gramen juncoides lanatum alterum Park. Juncus Alpinus capitulo lanuginoso, sive Schoenolaguros C. B. Hares-tail-Rush. On Ellesmeer meers in great abundance. This is the same with the Gramen junccum montanum subcaeruleâ spicâ Cambrobritannicum of Parkinson, who makes two Plants of one: it is also the Gramen plumosum elegans Phyt. Brit.
Persicaria siliquosa Ger. Codded Arsmart, or Touch-me-not. On the banks of the river Kemlett at Marington in the Parish of Cherbury: also at Guerndee in the Parish of Cherstock, half a mile from the foresaid river, among great Alder-trees in the high-way. Ger. p. 446.
Rosmarinum sylvestre minus nostras impropriè dictum cùm Cistiledon dicti potiùs species sit. Quidam ad Ericas referunt. At Birch in the moors of Ellesmeer plentifully. It grows in all the Countries near, viz. Cheshire, Lancashire, &c. in mosses and boggy places.
CHESHIRE.
THE fifth and last part of these Counties formerly possessed by the Cornavii, is the County of Chester, in Saxon Cestre-scyre, now commonly Cheshire and the County Palatine of Chester; [...]. for the Earls of it had a certain Palatine Jurisdiction belonging to them, and all the inhabitants held of them as in chief, and were under a soveraign allegiance and fealty to them, as they to the King. As for the word Palatine (that I may repeat what I have said already of it) it was common to all, formerly, that had any office in the King's Court or Palace; [...] P [...] [...] in [...] D [...]scr. [...] C [...]m [...]. [...]. and in that age Comes Palatinus was a title of dignity conferr'd upon him who had before been Palatinus, with an authority to hear and determine causes in his own territory; and as well the Nobles, whom they call'd Barons, as the Vassals, were bound to frequent the Palace of the said Count, both to give their advice and attendance, and also to grace his Court with their presence [a].
This country, Malmesbury says, yields corn very sparingly, especially wheat, but cattel and fish in abundance. On the contrary, Ranulph of Chester affirms, that Whatever Malmesbury might fancy from the report of others, yet it affords great store of all sorts of victuals, corn, flesh, fish, and of the best Salmon: it drives a considerable trade, not only by importing but by return, as having within it self, salt-pits, mines, and metals. Give me leave to add farther, that the grass of this Country has a peculiar good quality, so that they make great store of Cheese, The best Cheese. more agreeable and better relish'd than those of any other parts of the Kingdom, even when they procure the same Dary-women to make them. And therefore, by the by, I cannot but wonder at what Strabo writes, that some of the Britains in his time knew not how to make Cheese; and that Pliny should wonder, how barbarous people who liv'd upon milk, come to despise, or else not know for so long time, the benefit of Cheese, especially seeing they had the way of Curding it to a pleasant tartness, and of making fat butter of it. From [Page] whence it may be inferr'd that a the art of making Cheese was taught us by the Romans. Altho' this Country is inferiour to many others of this Kingdom in fruitfulness, yet it always produc'd more Gentry than any of them. There was no part of England that formerly supply'd the King's army with more Nobility, or that could number more Knights-families. On the South-side it is bounded with Shropshire, on the East-side with Staffordshire and Derbyshire, on the North with Lancashire, and on the West with Denbigh and Flint shires. Toward the North-west it shoots out into a considerable Chersonese,Wir [...]all. where the Sea insinuating it self on both sides, makes two Creeks, which receive all the rivers of this County. Into that Creek more to the West runs the river Deva [or Dee] which divides this County from Denbighshire. Into that more to the East, the Wever, which goes through the middle of the County, and the Mersey, which severs it from Lancashire, discharge themselves. And in describing this County, I know no better method, than to follow the course of these rivers. For all the places of greatest note are situate on the sides of them. But before I enter upon particulars, I will first premise, what Lucian the Monk has said in general of it, lest I should be accus'd hereafter for omitting any thing that might conduce to the commendation of the Inhabitants; besides, that Author is now scarce, and as old almost as the Conquest: But if any man be desirous either fully, Lucian the Monk in commendation of Chester. or as near as may be, to treat of the manners of the Inhabitants, with respect to them that live in other places of the kingdom; they are found to be partly different from the rest, partly better, and in some things but equal. But they seem especially (which is very considerable in points of civility and breeding) to feast in common, are cheerful at meals, liberal in entertainments, hasty, but soon pacified, talkative, averse to slavery, merciful to those in distress, compassionate to the poor, kind to relations, not very industrious, plain and open, moderate in eating, far from designing, bold and forward in borrowing, abounding in woods and pastures, and rich in cattel. They border on one side upon the Welsh, and have such a tincture of their manners and customs by intercourse, that they are not much unlike them. 'Tis also to be observ'd, That as the County of Chester is shut in, and separated from the rest of England by the Wood Lime, so is it distinguish'd from all other parts of England by some peculiar immunities: by the grants of the Kings, and the Excellencies of the Earls, they have been wont in Assemblies of the people to attend the Prince's sword rather than the King's crown, and to try causes of the greatest consequence within themselves with full authority and licence. Chester it self is frequented by the Irish, is neighbour to the Welsh, and plentifully serv d with provisions by the English: 'tis curiously situated, having gates Positione antiquâ. of an ancient model. It has been exercis'd with many difficulties, fortified and adorn'd with a river and a fine prospect, worthy (according to the name) to be call'd a City, secured and guarded with continual watchings of holy men, and by the mercy of our Saviour ever preserved by the aid of the Almighty.
The river Dee.The river Dee, call'd in Latin Deva, in British Dyffyr dwy, that is, the water of the Dwy, abounds with Salmon, and springs from two fountains in Wales, from which some believe it had its denomination. For Dwy signifies two in their language. But others from the nature also and meaning of the word, will have it signifie black water; others again God's water, and Divine water. Now altho' a fountain sacred to the Gods is call'd Divona Divona. in the old Gallick tongue (which Ausonius observes to have been the same with our British,) and altho' all rivers were [...], by Antiquity esteem'd Divine, and our Britains too paid them divine honours, as Gildas informs us; yet I cannot see why they should attribute divinity to this river Dwy in particular,Rivers sacred. above all others. We read that the Thessalians gave divine honours to the river Paeneus upon the account of its pleasantness; the Scythians attributed the same to the Ister for its largeness; and the Germans to the Rhine, because it was their judge in cases of suspicion and jealousie between married persons: but I see no reason, (as I said before) why they should ascribe Divinity to this river; unless perhaps it has sometimes chang'd its course, and might presage victory to the Inhabitants when they were at war with one another, as it inclin'd more to this or that side, when it left its chanel; for this is related by Giraldus Cambrensis, who in some measure believ'd it. Or perhaps they observ'd, that contrary to the manner of other rivers, it did not overflow with a fall of rain, but yet would swell so extraordinarily when the South-wind bore upon it, that it would overfloat its banks and the fields about them. Again, it may be, the water here seem'd holy to the Christian Britains; for 'tis said, that when they stood drawn up ready to engage the Saxons, they first kiss'd the earth, and devoutly drank of this river, in memory of the blood of their holy Saviour. The Dee (the course whereof from Wales is strong and rapid) has no sooner enter'd Cheshire, but it's force abates, and it runs through Bonium Bonium. more gently, which in some copies of Antoninus is spelt Bovium; an eminent city in those times, and afterwards a famous Monastery. From the Choir or Quire, it was call'd by the Britains Bonchor and Banchor, by the Saxons Bancorna-byrig and Banchor. B [...]or. This place, among many very good men, is said to have produc'd that greatest and worst of hereticks Pelagius, who perverting the nature of God's grace, so long infested the Western Church with his pernicious Doctrine. Hence in Prosper Aquitanus he is call'd Coluber Britannus.
Which I mention for no other reason, than that it is the interest of all mankind to have notice of such infections. In the Monastery (Bede says) there were so many Monks, that when they were divided into seven parts, having each their distinct ruler appointed them, every one of these particular Societies consisted of three hundred men at least, who all liv'd by the labour of their own hands. b Edilfred King of the Northumbrians slew twelve hundred of them,b for praying for the Britains their fellow Ch [...]istians, against the Saxon-Infidels. And here, to digress a little upon the mention of these Monks;M [...] life. the original of a Monastick life in the world proceeded from the rigorous and fiery persecutions of the Christian religion; to avoid which, good men withdrew themselves, and retir'd into the Deserts of Egypt, to the end they might safely and freely exercise their profession; and not with a design to involve themselves in misery rather than be made miserable by others, as the Heathens pretended.Ru [...] C [...]aud [...] Itinera [...] ▪ There they dispersed themselves among the mountains and woods, living first solitarily in Caves and Cells, from whence they were call'd by the Greeks Monachi: afterwards they began, as nature it self prompted them, to live sociably together, finding that more agreeable, and better than like wild beasts to sculk up and down in Deserts. Then their whole business was to pray, and to supply their own wants with their own labour, giving the over-plus to the poor, and tying themselves by Vows to Poverty, Obedience, and Chastity. Athanasius first introduced this Monastick way of living in the Western Church. Whereunto S. Austin in Africk, S. Martin in France, and Congell (as 'tis said) in Britain and Ireland, very much contributed by settling it among the Clergy. Upon which, it is incredible how they grew and spread abroad in the world, how many great Religious houses were prepared to entertain them, which from their way of living in common were call'd Coenobia; as they were also call'd Monasteries, because they still retain'd a shew of a solitary life: and there was nothing esteem'd in those times so strictly religious. [Page] For they were not only serviceable to themselves, but beneficial to all mankind, both by their prayers and intercessions with God, and also by their good example, their learning, labour, and industry. But as the times corrupted, so this holy zeal of theirs began to cool: Rebus cessere secundis, as the Poet says; Prosperity debauch'd them. But now to return.
From hence-forward this Monastery went to decay; for William of Malmsbury, who liv'd not long after the Norman Conquest, [...] men [...]'d by [...] was in [...]. says, There remained here so many signs of Antiquity, so many ruinous Churches, so many turns and passages through gates, such heaps of rubbish, as were hardly elsewhere to be met with. But now there is not the least appearance of a City or Monastery; the names only of two gates remain, Port-Hoghan, and Port Cleis, which stand at a mile's distance: between them Roman coyns have been often found. [...] be [...] [...]re. But here I must note that Bonium is not reckon'd within this County, but in Flintshire, a part of which is in a manner sever'd from the rest, and lyes here between Cheshire and Shropshire [b].
After the river Dee has enter'd this County, it runs by the town Malpas or Malo-passus, [...]. situate upon a high hill not far from it, which had formerly a castle; and from the ill, narrow, steep, rugged way to it, was call'd in Latin Mala platea, or Ill-street; for the same reason, by the Normans Mal-pas, and by the English in the same sense Depen-bache. Hugh Earl of Chester gave the Barony of this place to Robert Fitz-Hugh. [...]lo [...]day [...]us [...] ▪ In the reign of Henry the second, William Patrick, the son of William Patrick, held the same; of which race was Robert Patrick who forfeited it by outlawry. Some years after, David of Malpas, by a Writ of Recognisance, got a moiety of that town, which then belong'd to Gilbert Clerk; but a great part of the Barony descended afterwards to those Suttons that are Barons of Dudley; and a parcel thereof likewise fell to Urian de S. Petro, [...] to [...]. commonly Sampier. And from Philip, a younger son of David of Malpas, is descended that famous and knightly family of the Egertons, [...]. who derived this name from their place of habitation, as divers of this family have done, viz. Cotgrave, Overton, Codington, and Golborn. But before I leave this place, I must beg leave in this serious and grave subject, to recite one pleasant story concerning the name of it, out of Giraldus Cambrensis. [...] lib. 2. [...]3. It happen'd (says he) in our times, that a certain Jew travelling towards Shrewsbury, with the Arch-Deacon of this place, whose name was Peché, that is, Sin, and the Dean, who was call'd Devil; and hearing the Arch-Deacon say, that his Archdeaconry began at a place call'd Ill-street, and reach'd as far as Malpas towards Chester: the Jew knowing both their names, told them very pleasantly, be found it would be a miracle if ever he got safe out of this County; and his reason was, because Sin was the Arch-Deacon, and the Devil was the Dean; and moreover, because the entry into the Arch-deaconry was Ill-street, and the going forth again Malpas.
[...]ch.From hence Dee is carried down by Shoclach, where was formerly a castle; then by Alford, belonging formerly to the Arderns; next by Pouleford, where in Henry the third's reign,1 Ralph de Ormesby had his castle; lastly by Eaton, the seat of that famous family the Grosvenours, [...]enour i.e. grandis venator [great hunter,] whose posterity now go corruptly by the name of Gravenor.
A little more upward upon the same river, not far from the mouth it self (which Ptolemy calls Seteia, for Deia) stands that noble city, which the same Ptolemy writes Deunana, [...]ana. [...]. and Antoninus Deva, from the river; the Britains, Caer-Legion, Caer-Leon-Vaur, Caer-Leon ar Dufyr Dwy, and by way of preheminence Caer; as our Ancestors the Saxons, Legeacester, from the Legion's camp there, and we more contractly, [...]er. West-chester, from its westwardly situation; and simply Chester, according to that verse,
And without question these names were derived from the twentieth Legion, call'd Victrix. For in the second Consulship of Galba the Emperor with Titus Vinius, that Legion was transported into Britain; where growing too heady and too formidable to the Lieutenants, as well to those of Consular dignity, as those who had been only Praetors; Vespasian the Emperor made Julius Agricola Lieutenant over them, and they were at last seated in this City, (which I believe had not been then long built) for a check and barriere to the Ordovices. Tho' I know some do aver it to be older than the Moon, to have been built many thousands of years ago by the gyant Leon Vaur. But these are young Antiquaries, and the name it self may convince them of the greatness of this errour. For they cannot deny, but that Leon Vaur in British signifies a great Legion; and whether it is more natural to derive the name of this City from a great Legion, or from the gyant Leon, let the world judge: considering that in Hispania Tarraconensis we find a territory call'd Leon from the seventh Legio Germanica; and that the twentieth Legion, call'd Britannica, Valens Victrix, and falsly by some Valeria Victrix, was quarter'd in this City, as Ptolemy, Antoninus, and the coins of Septimius Geta testifie [c]. By the coins last mention'd it appears also that Chester was a Colony,Chester [...] Roman Colony. for the reverse of them is inscribed COL. DIVANA LEG. XX. VICTRIX. And tho' at this day there remain here few memorials of the Roman magnificence, besides some pavements of Chequer-works; yet in the last age it afforded many, as Ranulph, a Monk of this City, tells us in his Polychronicon. There are ways here under ground wonderfully arched with stone work, vaulted Dining-rooms, huge stones engraven with the names of the Ancients, and sometimes coins digged up with the Inscriptions of Julius Caesar and other famous men. Likewise Roger of Chester in his Polycraticon,c When I beheld the foundation of vast buildings up and down in the streets, it seemed rather the effect of the Roman strength, and the work of Giants, than of the British industry. The City is of a square form, surrounded with a wall two miles in compass, and contains eleven Parish-Churches2. Upon a rising ground near the river, stands the Castle, built by the Earl of this place, wherein the Courts Palatine and the Assizes were held twice a year. The buildings are neat,The Rowes and there are Piazza's on both sides along the chief street3. The City has not been equally prosperous at all times: first it was demolish'd by Egfrid the Northumbrian, then by the Danes; but repair'd by AedelfledaDomina. Governess of the Mercians, and soon after saw King Eadgar gloriously triumphing over the British Princes. For being seated in a triumphal Barge at the fore-deck, Kinnadius King of Scotland, Malcolin King of Cumberland,Circ. An. 960. Macon King of Man and of the Islands, with all the Princes of Wales, brought to do him homage, like Bargemen, row'd him up the river Dee, to the great joy of the Spectators. Afterwards,Churches restor'd. Glaber Rodolphus. about the year 1094. when (as one says) by a pious kind of contest the fabricks of Cathedrals and other Churches began to be more decent and stately, and the Christian world began to raise it self from the old dejected state and sordidness to the decency and splendour of white Vestments, Hugh the first of Norman blood that was Earl of Chester, repaired the Church which Leofrick had formerly founded here in honour of the Virgin Saint Werburga, and by the advice of Anselm, whom he had invited out of Normandy, granted the same unto the Monks. Now, the town is famous for the tomb of Henry the fourth, Emperour of Germany, who is said to have abdicated his Empire, and become an Hermite here; and also for its being an Episcopal See. This See was immediately after the Conquest translated from Lichfield hither, by Peter Bishop of Lichfield; after, it was transferred to Coventry, and from thence into the ancient Seat again: so that Chester continu'd without this dignity, till the [Page] last age, when King Henry the eighth displaced the Monks, instituted Prebends, and raised it again to a Bishop's See, to contain within it's jurisdiction this County, Lancashire, Richmond, &c. and to be it self contained within the Province of York. But now let us come to points of higher antiquity. When the Cathedral here was built, the Earls, who were then Normans, fortified the town with a wall and castle. For as the Bishop held of the King that which belonged to his Bishoprick, (these are the very words of Domesday book made by William the Conquerour,) so the Earls, with their men, held of the King wholly all the rest of the city. It paid gelt for fifty hides, and there were 431 houses geldable, and 7 Mint-masters. When the King came in person here, every Carrucat paid him 200 Hestha's, one Cuna of Ale, and one Rusca of Butter. And in the same place; For the repairing the city-wall and bridge, the Provost gave warning by Edict, that out of every hide of the County one man should come; and whosoever sent not his man, he was amerced 40 shillings to the King and Earl. If I should particularly relate the skirmishes here between the Welsh and English in the beginning of the Norman times, the many inroads and excursions, the frequent firings of the suburbs of Hanbrid beyond the bridge (whereupon the Welsh-men call it Treboeth, that is, the burnt town,) and tell you of the long wall made there of Welsh-mens skuls; I should seem to forget my self, and run too far into the business of an Historian. From that time the town of Chester hath very much flourished; and K. Hen. 7. incorporated it into a distinct County. Nor is there now any requisite wanting to make it a flourishing city; only the sea indeed is not so favourable, as it has been, to some few Mills that were formerly situated upon the river Dee; for it has gradually withdrawn it self, so that the town has lost the benefit of them, and the advantage of a harbour, which it enjoy'd heretofore. It's situation, in Longitude, is 20 degrees and 23 minutes; in Latitude, 53 degrees, 11 minutes. Whoever desires to know more of this City, may read this passage taken out of Lucian the Monk, who lived almost five hundred years ago. First it is to be considered, that the City of Chester is a place very pleasantly situated; and being in the west parts of Britain, stood very convenient to receive the Roman Legions that were transported hither: and besides, it was proper for watching the frontiers of the Empire, and was a perfect key to Ireland. For being opposite to the north parts of Ireland, it opened a passage thither for ships and mariners continually in motion to and again. Besides, it lyes curiously, not only for prospect, towards Rome and the Empire, but the whole world: a spectacle exposed to the eye of all the world: so that from hence may be discern'd the great actions of the world, and the first springs and consequents of them, the persons who, the places where, and the times when they were transacted. We may also take example from the ill conduct of them, to discern the base and mean things, and learn to avoid them. The City has four gates answering the four winds; on the east-side it has a prospect towards India, on the west towards Ireland, and on the north towards the greater Norway; and lastly, on the south, to that little corner wherein God's vengeance has confined the Britains, for their Civil wars and dissentions, which heretofore changed the name of Britain into England: and how they live to this day, their neighbours know to their sorrow. Moreover, God has blest and enrich'd Chester with a river, running pleasantly and full of fish, by the city walls; and on the south side with a harbour to ships coming from Gascoign, Spain, Ireland, and Germany; who by Christ's assistance, and by the labour and conduct of the mariners, repair hither and supply them with all sorts of commodities; so that being comforted by the grace of God in all things, we drink wine very plentifully; for those countries have abundance of vineyards. Moreover, the open sea ceases not to visit us every day with a tide; which, according as the broad shelves of sand are open or shut by tides and ebbs continually, is wont more or less to change or send one thing or other, and by reciprocal ebb and flow, either to bring in or carry out.
From the city, northwestward, there runneth out a Chersonese into the sea, inclosed on one side with the aestuary Dee, and on the other with the river Mersey; we call it Wirall, W [...] the Welsh (because it is a corner) Kill-gury [d]: this was all heretofore a desolate forest and not inhabited (as the natives say;) but King Edw. 3. disforested it. Now it is well furnish'd with towns, which are more favoured by the sea than by the soil; for the land affords them very little corn, but the water a great many fish. In the entry into it on the south-side, by the aestuary, stands Shotwick, a castle of the Kings: on the north stands Hooton, a manour which in Richard 2.'s time fell to the Stanleys, who derive themselves from one Alan Sylvestris, upon whom Ranulph, the first of that name Earl of Chester, conferr'd the Bailywick of the forest of Wiral by the delivery of a horn. Just by this stands Poole, from whence the Lords of that place (who have liv'd very honourably and in a flourishing condition this long time) took their name. Near this is Stanlaw, that is,Law, [...] as the Monks there have explain'd it, a stony-hill; where John Lacy, Constable of Chester, built a little Monastery, which, by reason of inundations, was forced afterwards to be remov'd to Whaly in the County of Lancaster.11 [...] At the farthest end of this Chersonese, there lies a little barren dry sandy Island, called Il-bre, I [...] which had formerly a small cell of Monks. More inward, east of this Chersonese, lies the famous forest, called the Forest of Delamere, the foresters whereof, by inheritance, are the Dawns of Utkinton, of an honourable family, being descended from Ranulph of Kingleigh, to whom Ranulph the first Earl of Chester gave the inheritance of that office of Forester. In this forest Aedelfleda the famous Mercian Lady, built a little city called Eades-burg, that is, a happy town, which has nowd lost both its name and being; for at present 'tis only a heap of rubbish, which they call the Chamber in the forest. About a mile or two from it, are also to be seen the ruins of Finborrow, Finbor [...] another town built by the same Lady.
Through the upper part of this forest lies the course of the river Wever, which issues out of a lake in the south-side of the County, at a place called Ridley, Rid [...]y. the seat of the famous and ancient family of the Egertons, a branch of the Barons of Malpas (as I have already observed;) and not far from Bunbury 4, where is an ancient College built by them; and near to Beeston-castle 5,Boest [...] a place well guarded both by the mountains, the vast extent of the walls, and the great number of its towers, with a steep access to it. This Castle was built by Ranulph the last Earl of Chester of that name: whereof Leland writes thus,
Hence the Wever continues his course southward, not far from Woodhay, Wo [...] where the famous and Knightly family of the Wilburhams liv'd long in great reputation; also by Bulkely and Cholmondly, Bulke [...] which gave names to two famous and Knightly families; and lastly, not far, on one hand from Baddely, formerly the seat of the ancient family of the Praeries; nor on the other hand, from Cumbermer, in which William Malbedeng founded a little Religious-house.11 [...] When this river touches the south part of this County, it passes through heaths and low places, [Page] where (as in other parts of this County) they often dig up trees, [...] [...]d. which they suppose have lain there ever since the Deluge. Afterwards, as it passeth through fruitful fields, it receives a little river from the eastward, upon which is situated Wibbenbury, so called from Wibba King of the Mercians. Next to that is Hatherton, formerly the seat of the Orbies, after that of the Corbets, and at present of Thomas Smith, son of Sir Laurence Smith Knight: then Dodington, the estate of the Delvesies: Batherton, of the Griphins: and Shavington of the Wodenoths (who by their name seem to have sprung from the Saxons:) besides the seats of many other honourable families, which are very numerous in this County. From hence the river Wever goes on by Nantwich, at some distance from Midlewich, to Norwich. These are the noble Salt-wiches, about 5 or 6 miles distant one from another, where they draw brine or salt-water out of pits, and do not, according to the method of the old Gauls and Germans, pour it upon burning wood, but boil it upon the fire, to make Salt of. Nor do I question but these were known to the Romans, and that their impost for salt was laid on them. For there was a noble Way from Midlewich to Northwich, which is raised so high with gravel, that one may easily discern it to be Roman; especially if he considers that gravel is scarce in this County, and that private men are even forced to rob the road of it for their own uses. Matthew Paris says, these Salt-pits were stop'd by Hen. 3. when he wasted this County; that the Welsh, who were then in rebellion, might have no supplies from them. But upon the next return of peace, they were open'd again.
[...]. Nantwich, the first of them that is visited by the Wever, is the greatest and best-built town of this County, call'd by the Welsh Hellath Wen, that is, White-salt-wich, because the whitest salt is made here; by the Latins, Vicus Malbanus, probably from William called Malbedeng and Malbanc, who had it given him upon the Norman Conquest. There is but one Salt-pit (they call it the Brine-Pit) distant about 14 foot from the river. From this Brine-Pit they convey salt-water by wooden troughs into the houses adjoyning, where there stand ready little barrels fixed in the ground, which they fill with that water; and at the notice of a bell, they presently make a fire under their Leads, whereof they have six in every house for boiling the water. These are attended by certain women call'd Wallers, who with little wooden rakes draw the Salt out of the bottom of them and put it in baskets; out of which the liquor runs, but the Salt remains and settlesd. There is but one Church in this town, a neat fabrick, belonging heretofore (as I have heard) to the Monastery of Cumbermer. Hence the Wever runs in a very oblique course, and is joyn'd by a little river which rises in the east, and passes by Crew, where formerly lived a famous family of that name. At some farther distance from the west-side of it, [...]y. stands Calveley, which has given both a seat and name to that noble family the Calveleys; of whom, in Richard 2.'s time, was Sir Hugh de Calveley, who had the reputation of so great a souldier, in France, that nothing was held impregnable to his valour and conduct. Hence the river goes on by Minshul, [...]yal. the seat of the Minshuls; and by Vale Royal, an Abbey founded in a pleasant valley by King Edward the first, where now the famous family of the Holcrofts dwell; [...]. then by Northwich, in British Hellath Du, signifying the black Salt-pit; where5 there is a deep and plentiful Brine-pit, with stairs about it, by which, when they have drawn the water in their leather-buckets, they ascend half naked to the troughs, and fill them; from whence it is convey'd to the Wich-houses, that are furnish'd with great piles of wood. Here the Wever receives the Dan, which we will now follow.
This Dan, or Davan, springs from the mountains, which separate this County from Staffordshire; and runs without any increase bye Condate, a town mention'd in Antoninus, and now corruptly nam'd Congleton, the middle whereof is watered by the little brook Howty, the east-side by the Daning-Schow, and the north by the Dan it self. Altho' this town for greatness, resort, and commerce, has deserved a Mayor and six Aldermen to govern it, yet it has only one Chapel in it, and that entirely of wood, unless it be the quire and a little tower. The Mother-Church to which it belongs is Astbury, about two miles off, which is indeed a curious thing; and tho' the Church be very high, yet the west porch is equal to it: there is also a spire-steeple. In the Churchyard there are two grave-stones, having the portraicture of Knights upon them, and in shields two bars. Being without their colours, 'tis hardly to be determin'd whether they belong'd to the Breretons, the Manwarings, or the Venables, which are the best families hereabouts, and bear such bars in their arms, but with different colours.
Next it arrives at Davenport, Davenport. commonly Danport, which gives name to the famous family of the Davenports: and Holmes-Chapel, well known to travellers; where, within the memory of this age, J. Needham built a bridge. Not far from this stands Rudheath, formerly an Asylum or Sanctuary to those of this Country, and others, that had broken the laws; where they were protected a year and a day. Next, it runs by Kinderton, the ancient seat of that old family the Venables, who from the time of the Conquest have flourish'd here, and are commonly called Barons of Kinderton. Below this place towards the south, the river Dan is joyn'd by the Croc, a brook rising out pf the lake Bagmere, which runs by Brereton. As this town has given name to the famous, ancient, numerous, and knightly family of the Breretons, so Sir William Brereton has honour'd it by raising very stately buildings therein. Here is one thing incredibly strange, but attested, as I my self have heard, by many persons, and commonly believ'd. Before any heir of this family dies, there are seen in a lake adjoyning the bodies of trees swimming upon the water for several days together; not much different from what Leonardus Vairus relates upon the authority of Cardinal Granvellan; Lib. 2. de Fascino. That near the Abbey of St. Maurice in Burgundy there is a fish-pond, into which a number of fishes are put equal to the number of the Monks of that place. And if any one of them happen to be sick, there is a fish seen floating upon the water sick too; and in case the fit of sickness prove fatal to the Monk, the fish foretells it by it's own death some days before. As to these things, I have nothing to say to them; for I pretend not to such mysterious knowledge: but if they are true, they must be done either by those blessed Spirits whom God has appointed Guardians and Keepers of us, or else by the arts of the Devil,Angels. Devils. whom God permits now and then to exert his power in this world. For both of them are intelligent Beings, and will not produce such preternatural things, but upon design, and to attain some end or other: those ever pursuing the good and safety of mankind; these ever attempting to delude us, to vex us, or to ruin us. But this is foreign to my purpose.
A little after Croke is got beyond Brereton, it comes to Middlewich, Middlewich situated near its union with the Dan; where there are two fountains of Salt-water (separated from one another by a little brook) which they call Sheaths. The one of them is not open'd, but at set times; to prevent stealing away the water, which is of a more peculiar virtue and excellence than the other. Whence the Dan runs by Bostock, Bo [...]tock. formerly Botestock, the ancient seat of the noble and knightly family of the Bostocks, which by marriage with Anne the only daughter of Ralph, son and heir of Sir Adam de Bostock Kt. went together with a vast estate, to6 John Savage. Out of this ancient house of the Bostocks, as out of a fruitful stock, has sprung a numerous race of the same name, which have spread themselves in Cheshire, Shropshire, Berkshire, and other places. [Page] Beneath Northwich the Dan unites it self with the Wever, and then runs on to the West in a streight line, and receives from the East, Pever, Pever. that gives its name to the town Pever, by which it passes. This is the seat of that noble and ancient family, the Meinilwarrens, now commonly Manewaring, one of which call'd Ralph, marry'd the daughter of Hugh Kevelioc Earl of Chester, as appears by an old Charter now in the hands of Ranulph the heir of this house. The course of the Wever is next by Winnington, which both gives seat and name to the famous and ancient family of the Winningtons: and then runs at some little distance from Merbury, which derives that name from a pool under it, and gives the same to the famous family of the Merburies. From hence the river runs near Dutton, Dutton. the estate of that worthy family the Duttons, descended from one Hudardus, who was related to the Earls of Chester. This family by an old custom, hath a particular authority over all Pipers, Fidlers, and Harpers of this County, ever since one R. Dutton, Chronicon Walliae. an active young Gentleman of a great spirit, with a rabble of such men, rescued Ranulph the last Earl of Chester, when he was beset by the Welsh, and in danger of being besieg'd by them. Nor must I forget to take notice of Nether-Whitley in these parts, out of which came the Tuschetts or Towchetts, Towchett. who are Barons Audley of Healye. Now the Wever flowing between Frodesham, a castle of ancient note, and Clifton, at present call'd Rock-Savage, Rock-Savage. a new house of the Savages, who by marriage have got a great estate here; runs at last into the aestuary of the Mersey, so call'd from the Mersey, a river which running down between this County and Lancashire, empties it self here; after it has first passed by some inconsiderable towns, and among the rest by Stockport, which formerly had its Baron7; and received the river Bollin, which flows out of the large forest of Maclesfeld, Maclesfeld. wherein stands the town Maclesfeld 8, from whence the forest has its name. Here was a College founded by T. Savage, first, Bishop of London, and then Arch-Bishop of York; in which several of that noble family, the Savages, are buried; and also Dunham, which from9 Hamon de Mascy by the Fittons and Venables came hereditarily to the famous family of Booth. From hence the Mersey goes on to Thelwall Thelwall. before it is much past Knotsford, i.e. Canutus's ford, whereof there are two, the Upper and the Lower; and then Lee, from whence there is a family of the same name, famous not only for its gentile race, but for the number of its branches. As for Thelwall, 'tis now an obscure village, tho' formerly a large city, founded by King Edward the elder; and so call'd, as Florilegus witnesses, from the trunks of trees fixed in the ground, which, instead of a wall, inclosed it. For the Saxons express the trunk of a tree by the word Dell, and the Murus by wall, [as we do at this day.] Upon the mouth of this river standsf Runckhorne, Runckhorn built in the very same age by Ethelfleda 10, and now likewise reduc'd to a few cottages. Since I have so often mention'd this Edelfleda, Ethelfleda, or Elfleda. it will not be improper to note, that she was sister to King Edward the elder, and wife to Ethelred a petty Prince of the Mercians; and that after her husband's death she govern'd eight years in very troublesome times, to her great praise and honour. In Henry of Huntingdon there is this encomium of her:
Below Runckhorne, more within the County, stands the town Haulton, where there is a castle which Hugh Lupus Earl of Chester gave to Nigellus, a certain Norman, upon condition, that he should be Constable of Chester; by whose posterity afterwards it came to the house of Lancaster. Nor must I here omit that William, son of this Nigell, founded a Monastery at Norton not far from hence, a town now belonging to the Brokes an ancient family. Whether I should place the Cangi here, who are a people of the old Britains; after much enquiry, I cannot really determineg, tho' I have long consider'd it. Antiquity has so obscur'd all memorials of them, that there remain not the least footsteps whereby to trace them. So that tho' Justus Lipsius, that great Master of polite learning, takes me for a competent judge of this controversie, I must ingenuously profess my ignorance, and that I would rather recommend this task to any one else, than assume it to my self. However, if the Ceangi and Cangi may be allow'd to be the same, and I don't know why they may not, then 'tis probable that they liv'd in this County. For while I was reviewing this work, I heard from some credible persons, that there have been twenty pieces of Lead dug up on this shore, of a square oblong form, and thus inscribed in the hollow of the upper part.
IMP. DOMIT. AVG. GER. DE CEANG.
But in others; IMP. VESP. VII. T. IMP. V. COSS.A [...] C [...]
Which seems to have been a monument rais'd upon account of some victory over the Cangi. And this opinion is confirm'd by the situation of the place upon the Irish Sea:An [...] for Tacitus in the twelfth Book of his Annals, writes, That in Nero's time Ostorius led an Army against the Cangi, by which the fields were wasted, and the spoil every where carried off; the enemy not daring to engage, but only at an advantage to attack our rear, and even then they suffer'd for their attempt. They were now advanc'd almost as far as that Sea towards Ireland, when a mutiny among the Brigantes, brought back the General again. But from the former Inscription, it seems they were not subdued before Domitian's time; and consequently, by Chronological computation, it must be when Julius Agricola, that excellent Souldier, was Propraetor here. Moreover, Ptolemy places the Promontorium [...], on this coast. Neither dare I look in any other part beside this Country for the Garrison of the Conganii, where,Co [...] towards the decline of the Empire, a Band of Vigiles with their Captain, under the Dux Britanniae, kept watch and ward. But I leave every man to his own judgment.
As for the Earls of Chester; Ea [...]s [...] Che [...] to omit the Saxons who held this Earldom barely as an office, and not as an inheritance: William the Conquerour made Hugh, sirnam'd Lupus, son to the Viscount de Auranches in Normandy, the first hereditary Earl of Chester and Count Palatine; giving unto him and his heirs this whole County h to hold as freely by his sword, as he did England by his crown; (these are the very words of the Feoffment.Baron Chest [...]) Hereupon the Earl presently substituted these following Barons, Nigell (now Niel) Baron of Haulton, whose posterity took the [Page] name Lacey from the estate of the Laceys, which fell to them, and were Earls of Lincoln: Robert Baron de Mont-hault, Seneschal or Steward of the County of Chester; the last of which family dying without children, made Isabel Queen of England, and John de Eltham Earl of Cornwall, his heirs: William de Malbedenge Baron of Malbanc, whose great grand-daughters transferred this inheritance, by their marriages, to the Vernons and Bassets: Richard Vernon, Baron of Sipbroke, whose estate, for want of heirs male, came by the sisters to the Wilburhams, Staffords, and Littleburys: Robert Fitz-Hugh Baron of Malpas, who (as I have observ'd already) seems to have died without issue: Hammon de Mascy, whose estate descended to the Fittons de Bolin: Gilbert Venables, Baron of Kinderton, whose Posterity remain and flourish in a direct line to this present age: N. Baron of Stockport, to whom the Warrens of Poynton (descended from the noble family of the Earls of Warren and Surrey) in right of marriage succeeded. And these are all the Barons I could hitherto find belonging to the Earls of Chester. Who (as 'tis set down in an old book) had their free Courts for all Pleas and Suits, except those belonging to the Earl's sword. They were besides to be the Earl's Counsel, to attend him, and to frequent his Court, for the honour and greater grandeur of it; and (as we find it in an old Parchment) they were bound in times of war with the Welsh, to find for every Knight's fee one Horse and Furniture, or two without Furniture within the Divisions of Cheshire: and that their Knights and Freeholders should have Corslets and [...] Haubergeons, and defend their own Fees with their own Bodies.
[...]. Hugh the first Earl of Chester, already spoken of, was succeeded by his son Richard, who together with William, only son of Henry the first, with others of the Nobility, was cast away between England and Normandy An. 1120. He dying without issue, Ranulph de Meschines was the third in this dignity, being sister's son to Hugh the first Earl. He dying, left a son Ranulph, sirnam'd de Gernoniis, the fourth Earl of Chester, a stout Souldier, who at the Siege of Lincoln took King Stephen prisoner. His son Hugh, sirnam'd Kevelioc, was the fifth Earl, who dy'd An. 1181. leaving his son Ranulph, sirnam'd de Blundevill the sixth in that dignity, who built Chartley and Beeston-castles, founded the Abbey de-la-Cress, and died without issue; leaving four sisters to inherit, Mawd the wife of David Earl of Huntingdon; Mabil the wife of William de Albeney Earl of Arundel; Agnes wife of William de Ferrars Earl of Derby; and lastly, Avis wife of Robert de Quincy. The next E [...]rl of this County was John, sirnam'd Scotus, the son of Earl David by the eldest sister Mawd aforesaid. He dying likewise without issue, King Henry the third, bribed with the prospect of so fair an Inheritance, annexed it to the Crown, allowing the sisters of John other Revenues for their Fortunes; not being willing (as he was wont to say) that such a vast estate should be parcelled among Distaffs. The Kings themselves, when this County devolved upon them,J. Tillus. maintain'd their ancient Palatine Prerogatives, and held their Courts (as the Kings of France did in the Counties of Champain) that the Honour of the Palatinate might not be extinguished by difuse. An Honour which afterwards was conferred upon the eldest sons of the Kings of England; and first granted to Edward the son of Henry the third, who being taken prisoner by the Barons, parted with it as ransom for his Liberty to Simon de Montfort Earl of Leicester; who being cut off soon after, it quickly returned to the Crown, and Edward the second made his eldest son Earl of Chester and Flint, and under these titles summon'd him, when but a Child, to Parliament. Afterwards Richard the second by Act of Parliament raised this Earldom to a Principality, and annexed to it the Castle of Leon, with the Territories of Bromfield and Yale, and likewise the Castle of Chirk, with Chirkland, and the Castle of Oswalds-street with the Hundred, and eleven Towns appertaining to the said Castle, with the Castles of Isabella and Delaley, and other large Possessions, which by the Outlawry of Richard Earl of Arundel, were then forfeited to the Crown. Richard himself was styl'd Princeps Cestriae, Prince of Chester. But this title was but of small duration, no longer than till Henry the fourth repeal'd the Laws of the said Parliament; for then it became a County Palatine again, and retains that Prerogative to this day, which is administred by a Chamberlain 11, a Judge Special 12, two Barons of the Exchequer, three Serjeants at Law, a Sheriff, an Attorney, an Escheator 13, &c.
We have now survey'd the Country of the Cornavii, who together with the Coritani, Dobuni, and Catuellani, made one entire Kingdom in the Saxon Heptarchy, then called by them Myrcna-ric, and Mearc-lond, but render'd by the Latins Me [...]cia; from a Saxon word Mearc, which signifies limit; for the other Kingdoms border'd upon this. This was by far the largest Kingdom of them all, begun by Crida the Saxon about the year 586. and enlarg'd on all hands by Penda; and a littl [...] after, under Peada, converted to Christianity. But after a duration of 250 years, it was too late subjected to the Dominion of the West-Saxons, when it had long endured all the outrage and misery that the Danish wars could inflict upon it.
This County has about 68 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to CHESHIRE.
AS the County of Chester exceeds most others in the antiquit [...] and Royalty of it's jurisdiction, and multitude of it's ancient Gentry; so the famous Colony settled in it under the Roman Government, has render'd it very considerable for Antiquities. Nor had that Subject wanted a due examination, or the remains of Antiquity layn so long undiscover'd, if most of it's Historians had not been led away with a chain of groundless stories and extravagant conjectures. 'Tis true, Sir Peter Leicester has made due searches into the Records relating to this County, especially to Bucklow-Hundred, and reported them with great exactness and fidelity; but the Roman affairs he has left so entirely untouch'd, that 'tis plain he either industriously declin'd them as foreign to his business, or wanted experience to carry him through that part of history. In like manner, Sir John Doderidge, a man of great learning, in his Treatise concerning this County, hath exactly stated the ancient and present revenues thereof; but was not so diligent in his enquiries concerning the original of the County Palatine, as might from a man of his Profession have been reasonably expected. However, his defect in this point is in a great measure supply'd by what the learned Mr. Harrington has left upon that subject, a Gentleman by whose death Learning in general, and particularly the Antiquities of this County, which he had design'd to illustrate and improve, have suffer'd very much.
[a] To begin then with Mr. Camden, who first observes that this is a County Palatine. County Palatine. It may be worth our notice, that it had this additional title upon the coming over of the Normans. At first indeed William the Conquerour gave this Province to Gherbord a Nobleman of Flanders, who had only the same title and power as the Officiary Earls amongst the Saxons had enjoy'd; the inheritance, the Earldom▪ and grandeur of the Tenure being not yet settl'd. Afterwards Hugh Lupus, son of the Viscount of Auranches, a Nephew of William the Conquerour by his sister, receiv'd this Earldom from the Conquerour under the greatest and most honourable Tenure that ever was granted to a Subject; Totum hunc dedit Comitatum tenendum sibi & haeredibus suis, ita liberè ad gladium sicut ipse Rex tenebat Angliae coronam.
The vast extent of the Powers convey'd in this Grant, carry'd in them Palatine jurisdiction; tho' it is certain that neither Hugh Lupus, nor any of his successors, were in the Grant it self, or any ancient Records, stil'd Comites Palatini.
As to the original of Palatinates in general, it is clear that anciently, in the decline of the Roman Empire, the [...], as the name imports, were only officers of the Courts of Princes. The term, in process of time, was restrain'd to those who had the final dete [...]mination of Causes under the King or Emperour. And those that exercis d this sovereignty of jurisdiction in any Precinct or Province, were call'd Comites Palatini; and the place where the jurisdiction was us'd Palatinatus, a Palatinate. Instances of such personal offices in the Court, we may still observe in the Palatine of Hungary; and examples of such local authority we have in the Palatinates of the Rhine, Durham, and Lancaster. Whether therefore the ancient Palatines were equal to the Praefecti Praetorio, the Curopalatae, the Grand Maistres in France, or the ancient Chief Justices in England, we need not dispute, since it is clear, that the Comites Palatini, as all new-erected Officers titles, retain'd many of the powers of the ancient, but still had many characters of difference, as well as some of resemblance.
By virtue of this Grant, Chester enjoy'd all sovereign jurisdiction within its own precincts, and that in so high a degree, that the ancient Earls had Parliaments consisting of their own Barons and Tenants, and were not oblig'd by the English Acts of Parliament. These high and unaccountable jurisdictions were thought necessary upon the Marches and Borders of the Kingdom, as investing the Governour of the Provinces with Dictatorial power, and enabling them more effectually to subdue the common enemies of the Nation. But when the same power, that was formerly a good bar against Invaders, grew formidable to the Kings themselves, Henry 8. restrain'd the sovereignty of the Palatinates, and made them not only subordinate to, but dependent on, the Crown of England. And yet after that restraining Statute, all Pleas of Lands and Tenements, all Contracts arising within this County, are, and ought to be, judicially heard and determin'd within this Shire, and not elsewhere: and if any determination be made out of it, it is void, and coram non judice; except in cases of Error, Foreign-Plea, and Foreign Voucher. And there is no other crime but Treason that can draw an inhabitant of this County to a Tryal elsewhere.
This jurisdiction, tho' held now in other Counties, was most anciently claim'd and enjoy'd by this County of Chester. The Palatinate of Lancaster, which was the Favourite-Province of the Kings of that House, was erected under Edw. 1. and granted by him to Henry, the first Duke of Lancaster; and even in the Act of Parliament that separates that Dutchy from the Crown of England, King Hen. 4. grants Quascunque alias libertates & jura Regalia ad Comitatum Palatinum pertinentia, adeo liberè & integrè sicut Comes Cestriae infrà eundem Comitatum Cestriae dignoscitur obtinere. Which ancient reference proves plainly, that the County of Chester was esteem'd the most ancient and best setled Palatinate in this Kingdom. And although the Bishop of Durham doth in ancient Plea lay claim to Royal jurisdiction in his Province à tempore conquestûs & anteà, yet it is evident that not Durham it self (much less Ely, Hexamshire, or Pembroke) was erected into a County Palatine before Chester. And as this is the most ancient, so is it the most famous and remarkable Palatinate in England: insomuch that a late Author, B [...]cman, who usually mistakes in English affairs, says of Cheshire, Comitatui singulare est quòd Titulum Palatinatus gerat, solis Germanis aliàs notum.
[b] Having premis'd thus much concerning the nature of Palatinates, let us enter upon the County it self, wherein the river Dee first leads us to Banchor; Ban [...]h [...] ▪ famous for the Monastery there. But before we go any farther, it will be necessary to arm the reader against a mistake inM [...] i [...] [...] Po [...] ▪ Malmesbury, who confounds this with the Episcopal seat in Caernarvonshire call'd Bangor; whereas (as Mr. Burton observes) the latter was like a Colony drawn out of the former. That Gildas, the most ancient of our British writers, was a member of this place, we have the authority of Leland; but upon what grounds he thinks so, is not certain.B [...] E [...] lib. [...] As for Dinothus, he was undoubtedly Abbot there, and sent for to meet Austin, at the Synod which he call'd here in this Island. Whether Pelagius the Heretick beiong'd also to this place (as Camden intimates) is not so certain. Ranulphus Cestrensis tells us, in his time it was thought so by some people,P [...] c [...] [...] c. 3 Tradunt nonnulli, &c. and John of Tinmouth, in the life of St. Alban, expresly says that he was Abbot here. But this man's relation to the place is not like to derive much honour upon it: the remains of Roman and British Antiquity, that have been discover'd there by the Plough-men (for now the place is all corn-fields,) are a much greater testimony of it's ancient glory.L [...] Such are, the bones of Monks, and vestures; squar d stones, Roman coyns, and the like.
[c] From hence the river Dee runs to Chester, the various names whereof are all fetch'd from the affairs of the Romans; the British from the Legion, and the Saxon Ceaster from the Fortifications made in that place upon account of the Legion being there quarter'd. That the Legio xx. was there, is agreed on all hands; but by what name it was call'd, or when it came over, are points not so certain, but they may admit of some dispute.
For the first, it is generally call'd Legio Vicesima Victrix, and Camden assents to it; but that seems to be defective, if we may depend upon the authority of an old Inscription upon an Altar digg'd up in Chester A. D. 1653. and compar'd with what Dio has said of this Legion. The Inscription is this, ‘I. O. M. TANARO
T. ELVPIVS GALER.
PRAESENS. GWTA
PRI·LEG·XXW.
COMMODO · ET
LATERANO
COS.
V. S. L. M.’
Which I read thus: ‘Jovi Optimo Maximo Tanaro
Titus Elupius Galerius
Praesens Gubernator
Principibus Legionis Vicesimae Victricis Valeriae
Commodo & Laterano Consulibus
Votum solvit lubens merito.’ For if that Legion was call'd simply Vicesima Victrix, what occasion was there for doubling the V? To make it Vigesima quinta, would be a conjecture altogether groundless; and yet if the first V denote Victrix, the second must signifie something more. 'Tis true, Mr. Camden never saw this Altar, yet another he had seen (which was digg'd up at Crowdundal-waith in Westmorland) should have oblig'd him not to be too positive, that those who thought it might be call'd Valens Victrix, or Valentia Victrix, were necessarily in an errour.
LEG. XX. V. V. &c.
Here also we see the V. is doubl'd. Whether the latter signifie Valeria, will best appear out of Dio, that great Historian, who in his recital of the Roman Legions preserv'd under Augustus, hath these words concerning the 20th Legion: [...]. The 20th Legion (saith Dio) which is also call'd Valeria and Victrix, is now in Upper-Britain, which Augustus preserv'd together with the other Legion that hath the name of Vicesima, and hath it's winter-quarters in Lower-Germany, and neither now is, nor then was usually and properly call'd Valeria.
Mr. Burton is induc'd by the Westmorland-monument to make an addition to Victrix, and sets down Valens; but why this passage should not have induc'd him rather to make choice of Valeria, I confess I perceive no [...]eason. For first, the distinction he makes between the Vicesima in Britain and that in Germany, is plain not only from the natural const [...]uction of the words, but likewise because Dio's 19 Legions, which were kept entire by Augustus, cannot otherwise be made up. Next, supposing this distinction, 'tis very evident, that he positively applies the name Valeria to the first, and as plainly denies that the second ever had that title. And why should not we as well allow the name of Valeria to this, as we do to other Legions the additional titles of Ulpia, Flavia, Claudia, Trajana, Antoniana?
The second head, When this Legion came over, or when they were here settl'd, cannot be precisely determin'd. That this was a Colony settl'd by Julius Caesar (as Malmesbury seems to affirm) implies what never any one dreamt of, that Julius Caesar was in those territories. Giving an account of the name Caerlegion, he lays down this reason of it, quod ibi emeriti Legionum Julianarum resedere. The learned 4 Selden would excuse the Monk by reading Militarium for Julianarum; [...] ad [...], but that his own ancient Manuscript would not allow. To bring him off the other way, by referring Julianarum not to Caesar but Agricola, who in Vespasian's time had the sole charge of the British affairs, seems much more plausible. Before that time, we find this Legion mention'd by Tacitus, in the Lower-Germany; and their boisterous behaviour there. And in Nero's time, the same Author acquaints us with their good services in that memorable defeat which Suetonius Paulinus gave to Queen Boadicia. So that whenever they might settle at Chester to repel the incursions of the active Britains; it plainly appears they came over before Galba's time; from the reign of which Emperour, notwithstanding, Mr. Camden dates their landing here.
Another Altar was found at Chester with this Inscription.
It was discover'd by the Architect in digging for a Cellar in the house of Mr. Heath, and was view'd and delineated by Mr. Henry Prescott, a curious Gentleman of that city, to whom we are indebted for the description of it. It lay with the Inscription downward upon a stone two foot square, which is suppos'd to have been the Pedestal of it: the foundation lay deep and broad, consisting of many large stones. The earth about it was solid, but of several colours; and some ashes were mixt in it. About the foundation were found signs of a Sacrifice, the bones, horns, and heads of several creatures, as the Ox, Roe-buck, &c. with these two coyns:
- I. Brass. On the first side, Imp. Caes. Vespasian. Aug. Cos. 111. and the face of the Emperour. On the reverse, Victoria Augusti S. C. and a winged Victory standing.
- II. Copper. On the first side, Fl. Val. Constantius Nob. C. and the face of Constantius. On the reverse, Genio populi Romani. A Genius standing, holding a bowl (us'd in sacrifices) in the right hand, and a Cornucopia in the left.
Our Antiquary tells us, that presently after the Norman-Conquest, the Episcopal See was translated hither from Lichfield: and this is the reason why the Bishops of Lichfield are sometimes call'd by our Historians Bishops of Chester; and Peter who translated it, is by our Saxon Annals call'd Episcopus Licifeldensis sive Cestrensis, Bishop of Lichfield or Chester.
[d] Leaving this ancient city, the next thing that offers it self is Wirall Wirall. (call'd by the Saxon Annals Wirheale, and by Matthew Westminster more corruptly Wirhale,)Burton. Itinerar. p. 129. which the same Mattthew confounds with Chester, making them one place. This error proceeded from the misunderstanding of that passage in the Saxon Chronicle, hie gedydon on anre pestre ceastre on Wirhealum. sio is Legaceastre gehaten, i.e. They abode in a certain Western city in Wirheale, which is call'd Legaceaster. The latter part [Page] of the sentence he imagin'd had referr'd to Wirheale, whereas it is plainly a farther explication of the Western-city.
[e] From the Western parts of this County, let us pass to the Eastern, where upon the river Dane is Congleton, the ancient Condatum of Antoninus, according to our Author, Mr. Burton, Mr. Talbot, and others. Wherever it was, it seems probable enough (as Mr.Comment upon the I [...]inerar. p. 124. Burton has hinted) that it came from Condate in Gaul, famous for the death of S. Martin. ForD [...] Bell. G [...]ll. l. 5. Caesar expresly tells us, that even in his time they translated themselves out of that part of Gaul into Britain; and that after they were settl'd, they call'd their respective cities after the name of those, wherein they had been born and bred. Whether any remains of Roman Antiquities that have been discover'd at Congleton, induc'd our Antiquaries to fix it there, is uncertain, since they are silent in the matter: but if the bare affinity of names be their only ground; supposing the distances would but answer, there might be some reason to remove it into the Bishoprick of Durham: wherein at Consby near Percebridge was dug up a Roman Altar, very much favouring this conjecture. The draught and inscription of it, with the remarks upon them, shall be inserted in their proper place.
More towards the North lies Maclesfield, where (in a Chapel or Oratory on the South-side of the Parochial Chapel, and belonging to Peter Leigh of Lyme, Esq as it anciently belong'd to his Ancestors) in a brass Plate are the verses and following account of two worthy persons of this family.
This Perkin served King Edward the third, and the Black Prince his son in all their wars in France, and was at the Battel of Cressie, and had Lyme given him for that service. And after their deaths served King Richard the second, and left him not in his troubles, but was taken with him, and beheaded at Chester by King Henry the fourth. And the said Sir Peers his sonne, served King Henry the fifth, and was slain at the battel of Agen-court.
In their memory Sir Peter Legh of Lyme Knight, descended from them, finding the said old verses written upon a stone in this Chapel, did reedifie this place An. Dom. 1626.
On the other side of the same Parochial Chapel, in an Oratory belonging to the right honourable Thomas Earl Rivers, is this Copy of a Pardon grav'd in a brass Plate.
Another brass Plate in the same Chapel has this ancient Inscription: ‘Orato pro animabus Rogeri Legh & Elizabeth uxoris suae: qui quidem Rogerus obiit iiii. die Novembris, Anno Domini M. v. c. vi. Elizabeth verò obiit vo die Octobris, An. Domini Mcccclxxxix. quorum animabus propitietur Deus.’
This town of Macclesfield hath given the title of Earl to the Gerrards, the first whereof invested with that Honour, was Charles, created Earl of this place, 31 Car. 2. who being lately dead, is now succeeded by his son and heir.
Cerasus avium fructu minimo cordiformi Phyt. Brit. The least wild Heart Cherry-tree or Merry-tree. Near Stock-port, and in other places. Mr. Lawson could observe no other difference between this and the common Cherry-tree, but only in the figure and smallness of the fruit.
SILURES.
IT seems most adviseable, before we go to the other parts of England, to take a round into Cambria, or Wales, still possest by the posterity of the old Britains. Tho' I cannot look upon this as a digression, but a pursuing of the natural course of things. For this tract is spread out along by the sides of the Cornavii, and seems to have a right to be consider'd here, as in its proper place. Especially, seeing the British or Welsh, the Inhabitants of these parts, enjoy the same laws and privileges with us, and have been this long time as it were engrafted into our Government.
Wales Wales. therefore (which formerly comprehended all that lies beyond the Severn, but has now narrower bounds) was formerly inhabited by three People, the Silures, Silures, the Dimetae, Dimetae, and the Ordovices. Ordovices. To these did not only belong the twelve Counties of Wales, but also the two others lying beyond the Severn, Herefordshire and Monmouthshire, now reckon'd among the Counties of England. To take them then as they lye: the Silures (as we gather from Ptolemy's description of them) inhabited those Countries which the Welsh call by one general name Deheubarth, i.e. the Southern part; at this day brancht into the new names of Herefordshire, Radnorshire, Brecknockshire, Monmouthshire, and Glamorganshire; within which compass there are still some remains of the name Silures As to the derivation of the word, I can think of none that will answer the nature of the Country; but as to the original of the People, TacitusTacitus. imagines them to have come first from Iberia, upon account of theirColorati vultus. ruddy complexion, their curl'd hair, and their situation over against Spain. But Florianus del Campo, a Spaniard, is very positive in that matter, and takes a great deal of pains to find the Silures in Spain, and to obtrude upon us I know not what stories about Soloria and Siloria among the old Astures. However, this Country was very large (for it seems probable from Pliny and Tacitus that they were possess'd of all South-Wales,) and the Inhabitants were hardy, stout, warlike, averse to servitude, of great boldness and resolution (term'd by the RomansPervicacia. obstinacy and stubbornness) not to be wrought upon either by threats or kindness: and their posterity have not degenerated in any of these particulars. When the Romans, out of an itching desire of enlarging their Empire, made attempts upon them,See pag. xlvii. they (partly reposing a confidence in the courage and conduct of King Caratacus, and partly incens'd by a saying of Claudius the Emperour, That they were to be as entirely routed as the Sugambri had been) engag'd the Romans in a very troublesome and difficult war. For having intercepted the Auxiliary Troops, cut off the Legion under Marius Valens, and wasted the territories of their Allies, P. Ostorius, Propraetor in Britain, was quite wore out with all these crosses, and dy'd of grief. Veranius too, who govern'd Britain under Nero, was baffled in this enterprize against them. For where Tacitus says,Tacit. Annal. L. XIV. Illum modicis excursibus Sylvas populatum esse, that he destroy'd and wasted the woods with slight excursions; instead of Sylvas, with the Learned Lipsius only read Siluras, and all's right. Nor could an end be made of this war before Vespasian's reign. For then Julius Frontinus subdu'd them, and kept them quiet by garisons of the Legions. A certain Countryman of ours has wrested that verse of Juvenal upon Crispinus, to these Silures:
As if some of our Silures had been taken prisoners, and expos'd to sale at Rome. But take it upon my word, he has mistook the genuine sense of the Poet. For any one that reads that passage with attention, will quickly perceive that by Siluros he designs to express a sort of Fish, and not a People.
HEREFORDSHIRE.
HErefordshire, call'd by the Britains Ereinuc, is, in a manner, of a circular form: bounded on the East with the Counties of Worcester and Glocester; on the South with Monmouth; on the West with Radnor and Breknock; and on the North with Shropshire. A Country (besides its pleasantness) both for feeding of Cattel, and produce of Corn, every where of an excellent soil; and admirably well provided with all necessaries for life. Insomuch, that it may scorn to come behind any County in England for fruitfulness of soil1. To which excellencies are to be added, its fine rivers, the Wye, the Lug, and the Munow, which after they have water'd the verdant flow'ry meadows, and rich and fruitful corn-fields, at last have their conflux, and in one chanel pass to the Severn-Sea [a].
[...] River [...].The Munow has its rise in Hatterell-hills, which shooting up aloft, look, as it were, like a Chair, and are a sort of wall to this Shire on the Southwest-side. Hence the river descending, first struggles Southward along the foot of these hills, [...]. to Blestium, a town so plac'd by Antoninus, that both for situation and distance, it can be no other than that, which standing upon this river, [...] Town. is by the Britains call'd Castle Hean, that is, the Old Castle, by us The old Town. An inconsiderable village, but nevertheless this new name makes much for its antiquity, for in both tongues it sounds an Old Castle or Town. Next to this lyes Alterynnis surrounded with water,Alterynnis, the Seat of the Cecils. as it were an Island in a river, the seat in former ages of the ancient and knightly family of the Sitsilters or Cecils, whence my right honourable Patron, highly accomplisht with all the Ornaments of Virtue, Wisdom, and Nobility, Sir William Cecil, Baron of Burghley, and Lord High Treasurer of England, is descended.
From hence the Munow turning Eastward, for a good way parts this Province from Monmouthshire, and is augmented by the river Dore at Map-Harald or Harald Ewias, Harald-Ewias. a Castle. This Ewias-Castle (to give you the words of King William the first's Book) was repair'd by Alured of Marleberg. The Family of Ewias. Afterwards it belonged to one Harald a Nobleman, who,Their Arms. in a Shield Argent, bore a Fess, Gules, between three Estoiles, Sable; from whom it first took the name of Harold Ewias: but Sibyll his Great-grand-daughter, and one of the heirs, transferr'd it by marriage to the Lords Tregoz, Tregoz and Grandison. from whom it came at length to the Lords of Grandison, originally of Burgundy; of whom elsewhere.
Now the Dore above-mentioned (falling down from the North, by Snotthill a castle,Gidden Vale. and sometimes the Barony [Page] of Robert Chandois, where there is a Quarry of excellent Marble) cuts through the middle of the valley, which the Britains from the river call Diffrin Dore; but the English, that they might seem to express the force of that word, have term'd it The Golden Vale. Which name it may well be thought to deserve, for its golden, rich, and pleasant fertility. For the hills that encompass it on both sides, are clothed with woods, under the woods lye corn-fields on each hand, and under those fields lovely and gallant meadows. In the middle between them glides a clear and crystal river, on which Robert Earl of Ewias erected a fine Monastery, wherein most of the Nobility and Gentry of these parts were buried.
Part of this County, which bends towards the East, now call'd Irchenfeld, Irchenfeld. in Domesday Archenfeld, was (as Historians write) laid waste with fire and sword by the Danes in the year 715; Camalac, a British Bishop, being then carried away captive. Herein, once stood Kilpec a noted castle, the seat of the noble family of the Kilpec's,Kilpec. who, as some report, were Champions to the Kings of England, in the beginning of the Normans; which I am very willing to believe. In the reign of Edward the first, Robert Wallerond liv'd here, whoseNepos. nephew Alane Plugenet was honourd with the title of a Baron. In this Archenfeld likewise, as we read in Domesday-book, certain Revenues by an old custom were assigned to one or two Priests, on this condition, that they should go in Embassies for the Kings of England into Wales; and to use the words of the said Book, The men of Archenfeld, whenever the Army marches forward against the Enemy, by custom make the Avauntward, and in the return homeward, the Rereward.
As the Munow runs along the lower p [...]rt of this County,The river Wye. so the Wye with a winding course cuts it in the middle: upon which, in the Western bounds, stands Clifford-castle,Cliff [...]rd-Castle. which William Fitz-Osborn Earl of Hereford built upon his own Waste (these are the very words of Domesday-book) but Ralph de Todeny held it. Clivus fortis. It is suppos'd that it came afterwards to Walter the son of Richard Punt a Norman, for his sirname was de Clifford, and from him the illustrious family of the Cliffords, Earls of Cumberland, are originally descended. But in King Edward the first's time,Inq. 26 E. 1. John Giffard held it, who married the heir of Walter Clifford. Thence the Wye, with a crooked and winding stream rolls by Whitney, which has given name to a noted family; next by Bradwardin-Castle, that gave both original and name to the famous Thomas Bradwardin Archbishop of Canterbury, who for the great variety of his studies, and his admirable proficiency in the most abstruse and hidden parts of learning, was in that age honour'd with the title ofThe Profound D [...] ctor. Doctor profundus. At length it comes to Hereford, the Metropolis of this County [b].
How far that little Tract Arcenfeld reach'd, I know not; but the affinity between these names, Ereinuc, Arcenfeld, the town Ariconium mention'd by Antonine in these parts, and Hareford or Hereford, Hereford. the present Metropolis of this Shire; have by little and little induc'd me to this opinion, that they are every one deriv'd from Ariconium. And yet I do not believe that Ariconium and Hereford were the same; but as Basle in Germany has challeng'd the name of Augusta Rauracorum, and Baldach in Assyria that of Babylon, (because, as this had its original from the ruins of Babylon, so that had its birth from those of Augusta;) so our Hariford (for thus the common people call it) had its name and beginning from its neighbour Ariconium, as I am of opinion; which at this day has no clear marks of a town, having been destroyed, as 'tis reported, by an Earthquake. Only it still retains a slight shadow of the name, being call'd Kenchester, Kenchester. and shews some ruins of old Walls call'd Kenchester Walls, about which are often dug up stones of inlaid Checquer-work, British bricks, Roman coyns, &c. [c] But Hareford her daughter, which carries more express remains of the name [d], stands eastward scarce three Italian miles from it, amongst meadows extremely pleasant, and corn-fields very fruitful; encompass'd almost round about with rivers; by an anonymous one on the north and west sides, on the south by the Wye, which hastens hither out of Wales. It is supposed to have first sprung up when the Saxon Heptarchy was in its glory; founded, as some write, by Edward the [...]lder: and indeed there is no mention of it more ancient. For the Britains, before the name of Hereford was known, called the place Trefawith, from Beech-trees; and Henford, from an Old way: and the Saxons themselves Fern-leg, of Fern. It owes, if I mistake not, it's greatest encrease and growth to Religion, and the Martyrdom of Ethelbert, a King of the East-Angles; who (whilst in person he courted the daughter of Offa King of the Mercians) was villanously way-laid and murmurder'd by Quendreda, Offa's wife, who longed more for the Kingdom of the East-Angles, than to have her daughter honestly and honourably married. He was hereupon registred in the Catalogue of Martyrs,S [...] M [...] and had a Church here built and dedicated to him by Milfrid a petty King of the Country; which being soon after adorn'd with a Bishop's See, grew very rich, first by the liberality of the Mercian, afterwards of the West-Saxon Kings. For they at length were possessed of this City, as may be gathered from William of Malmesbury, where he writes, that Athelstan the West-Saxon forc'd the Princes of Wales in this City to comply with such hard conditions, as to pay him tribute (besides hounds and hawks) 20 pound weight of gold, and 300 pound of silver every year. This city, as far as I have observ'd by reading, had never any misfortune, unless it were in the year of our Lord 1055. when Gryffin Prince of South-Wales, and Algar an Englishman, rebelling against Edward the Confessor, after they had routed Earl Ralph, sacked the City, destroy'd the Cathedral, and carried away captive Leofgar the Bishop. But Harold, having soon quieted their bold rebellion, fortified it, as Floriacensis informs us, with a broad and high Rampire. Upon this account it is that MalmesburyLib [...] P [...] writes thus; Hereford is no great City, and yet by the high and formidable ruins of its steep and broken Bulwarks, it shews it has been some great thing: and as it appears by Domesday book, there were in all but 103 men within and without the walls. The Normans afterwards built a very large and strong Castle (on the east-side of the Cathedral, along the river Wye) the work, as some report, of Earl Miles; but now ruin'd by time, and falling to decay [e]. Afterwards they wall'd the City about. In the reign of King Hen. 1. was founded by Bishop Reinelm that beautiful Church now to be seen, which his successors enlarged by adding to it a neat College, and fine houses for the Prebendaries. For besides the Bishop, (who has 302 Churches in his Diocese) there are in this Church, a Dean, two Archdeacons, a Praecentor, a Chancellour, a Treasurer, and 28 Prebendaries. I saw in it scarce any monuments besides those of the Bishops: and I have heard that Thomas Cantlow the Bishop, a person nobly born, had here a stately and magnificent tomb; who being canonized for his holiness, wanted little of out-shining the Royal Martyr Ethelbert: so great was the opinion of his piety and devotion [f]. According to Geographers, the Longitude of this City is 20 degrees, 24 minutes. Lat. 52 degrees, 6 min. [g].
The Wye has scarce gone three miles from this City, when he intercepts the river Lug; which having run with a rapid stream down from Radnor-Hills, with a still course glides through this Province from the north-west to the south-east [h]. At the first entrance, it has a distant prospect of Brampton Brian, a Castle which a famous family (hence sirnam'd de Brampton, Brampton Brian. whose christian name was usually Brian) held by a continual succession to the time of King Edward 1. then by female-heirs it came to R. Harley. But it has a nearer view of Wigmore, Wigmore. in Saxonb Wynginga-mere, repair'd in ancient times by King Edw. the elder, afterwards fortify'd with a Castle by William Earl of Hereford, in the wast of a ground (for so it is in Domesday book) which was called Marestun, [Page] in the tenure of Randulph de Mortimer, from whom those Mortimers that were afterwards Earls of March were descended. Of these more in Radnorshire. Three miles off there is another neighbouring Castle call'd Richard's-Castle, [...]. possessed first by the Sayes, then by the Mortimers, and afterwards by the Talbots. At length, by the daughters of J. Talbot, the inheritance was divided betwixt Guarin Archdeacon and Matthew Gurnay [i]. Beneath this Castle, Nature (which no where sports her self more in shewing wonders than in the waters) hath brought forth a little Well, which is always full of small fish-bones (or as others think, small frog-bones) notwithstanding it is ever now and then emptied and clear'd of them; whence 'tis commonly call'd Bone-Well. [...] W [...]ll. And not far off stands Croft-Castle, belonging to the famous and very ancient and knightly family of the Crofts [k].
Thence the Wye bends his course to Lemster, called also Leonminster and Leonis Monasterium, from a Lion thatc appear'd in a Vision (as some have dream'd,) but by the Britains Lhan-Lieni; which signifying a Church of Nuns, and it being certain that Merewalch a Mercian King founded here a Church for Nuns, (which was afterwards a Cell belonging to the Monastery of Reading;) to seek after another Original of the name, what were it else but labouring to no purpose? And yet there are some which derive it from Linum Flax, the best kind of which grows here. But it now glories chiefly in it's Wool in the neighbouring parts round about (commonly call'd Lemster Ore) which (excepting that of Apulia and Tarentum) is by all Europe accounted the best. [...] Wool. It is also so famous for Wheat, and the finest White bread, [...] and [...]. that Lemster-Bread and Weabley-Ale (a town belonging to the noble family of D'Eureux) are grown a common Proverb. By reason of [...]ese Commodities, the markets of Lemster were very much frequented; and they of Hereford and Worcester observing it, were so invidious, that they oblig'd them, by virtue of the King's authority, to alter their Market-day, complaining that the confluence of people thither impaired their markets. I have nothing more to add concerning Lemster, but that William Breosa Lord of Brecknock, when he revolted from King John, set it on fire, and defac'd it [l]. As for Webley, [...]ey. it is seated more within the Country, and was the Barony of the Verdons; the first of which family, [...]cs Ver [...]. Bertram de Verdon, came into England with the Normans, whose posterity, by marriage with one of the heirs of the Laceys of Trim in Ireland, were for some time hereditary Constables of Ireland: but at last the estate devolved, by daughters, to the Furnivals, Burghersh, the Ferrers of Groby, Crophull, and from the Crophulls, by the Ferrars of Chartley, to the D'Evereux's Earls of Essex. Near neighbours unto Webley, but more westward, are Huntingdon-Castle, formerly belonging to the Bohuns Earls of Hereford and Essex; Kinnersley, to the ancient house of De-la-bere; and Erdsley, where the famous and ancient family of the Baskerviles have long inhabited, [...]le. [...] G [...] [...]. which bred in old time so many noted Knights: they deduce their original from a Niece of Gunora, that most celebrated Norman Lady, who long ago flourished in this County, and its neighbour Shropshire; and held (to note so much by the by) the Hamlet of Lanton in Capite, [...]. 3. as of the Honour of Montgomery by the service of giving the King one barbed Arrow as often as he came into those parts to hunt in Cornedon-Chace.
The Lugg now hastens to the Wye, first by Hampton, where Rowland Lenthall, Master of the Wardrobe to King Hen. 4. who married one of the heirs of Thomas Earl of Arundel, built a very fine house, which the Coningsbeys, a family of note in this tract, have for a good while inhabited. [...]. Thence by Marden, [...]. and Southon, or Sutton: of which, Sutton shews some small remains of King Offa's palace, infamous for the murder of K. Ethelbert; and Marden is noted for the tomb of the said K. Ethelbert, who for a long time lay bury'd here in obscurity, before he was translated to Hereford [m]. Near the conflux of the Lugg and the Wye, eastward, a Hill, which they call Marcley Hill, Marcley-Hill. in the year 2 1575. roused it self up, as it were out of a sleep, and for three days together shoving its prodigious body forward with a horrible roaring noise,A moving Mount [...]in. and overturning all that stood in its way, advanced it self (to the great astonishment of the beholders) to a higher station: by that kind of Earthquake, I suppose, which the Naturalists call Brasmatia [n]. Not far from hence, towards the East likewise, under Malvern-hills (by which the east-side of this County is here bounded) stands Ledbury Ledbury. upon the river Ledden, a town of note, whichWalter Mapes calls him Alvodus, and says he was the son of Edricus Sylvester. Lib. de Nug. Curial. 2. cap. 11. Edwin the Saxon, a man of great power, gave to the Church of Hereford, being persuaded that he was cured of the Palsie by the intercession of St. Ethelbert. As for the Military works on the neighbour hill, I need say nothing of them, since in this tract (which was the marches, and the seat of war, first between the Romans and the Britains, afterwards between the Britains and the Saxons) such [Forts and Entrenchments] are to be seen in many places [o]. Now the Wye enlarg'd by the influx of the Lugg, fetches a more winding compass, first by Holme Lacy, the seat of the ancient and noble family of Scudamores, Scudamore, or Escudamor. which much advanced it self by matching with an heiress of the House of Ewias in this County, and Huntercombe, &c. elsewhere. From hence the Wye runs down between Rosse 3 noted for Smiths, and Wilton Wilton. over against it, a very ancient Castle of the Greys, Baron Grey of Wilton. from which family so many famous persons of that sirname have descended. It was built, as common report goes, by Hugh Long-champ. But publick records assure us, that King John gave Wilton, with the Castle, to Henry Long-champ, and that it fell by marriage to William Fitz-Hugh, and likewise not long after (in King Edward the first's time) to Reginald Grey. Now, after the Wye has run a little lower and saluted Goderich Castle, Goderich-Castle. which King John gave to William Earl Marshal, and which was afterwards the principal seat of the Talbots; it takes leave of Herefordshire, and bends its course to the County of Monmouth [p].
In the declension of the Saxon Government,Earls of Hereford. Ralph son to Walter Medantin by Goda King Edward the Confessor's sister, govern'd this County as an Official Earl. But the Normans divested him of this honour, and substituted in his room William the son of Osbern of Crepon, or as the Normans call'd him, Fitz-Osbern, a person very nearly allied to the Dukes of Normandy. He being slain in the4 wars in Flanders, was succeeded by his son Roger sirnam'd de Bretevill, who died5 out-law'd,Proscriptus. leaving no legitimate issue. Then King Stephen restor'd to Robert le Bossu Earl of Leicester6, son of Emme de Bretevill's heir, (I speak out of the original it self) the Borough of Hereford, and the Castle, and the whole County of Hereford to descend by inheritance; but to no purpose. For Maud the Empress, who contended with Stephen for the Crown, advanced Miles, the son of Walter Constable of Glocester, to that honour, and7 made him high Constable of England.Constables of England. Nevertheless, King Stephen afterwards divested him of these honours. This Miles had five sons, Roger, Walter, Henry, William, and Mahel, all persons of great note, and who died untimely deaths, after they had all, but William, succeeded one another in their father's inheritance, having none of them any issue. King Henry, amongst other things, gave to Roger, The Mote of Hereford, with the whole Castle, Girald. Cambriae Itin. l. 1. c. 2. and the third penny of the revenues of the Pleas of the whole County of Hereford, whereof he made him Earl. But upon Roger's death, if we may credit Robert [Page] Montensis, the same King kept the Earldom of Hereford to himself. 1156 Margaret the eldest sister of these, was married to Humphrey Bohun, the third of that name, and his Posterity were High Constables of England, viz. Humphrey Bohun the fourth, Henry his son,2 Par. Chart. An. 1 Reg. Joan. Matth. Paris Lib Waldensis. Lib. Monasterii Lanthony. to whom King John granted "Twenty pound to be received yearly of the third penny of the County of Hereford, whereof he made him Earl". This Henry married the sister and heir of William Mandevill Earl of Essex, and died in the fourth year of King Henry the third. Humphrey the fifth his son, who was also Earl of Essex, and had Humphrey the sixth, who died before his father, having first begot Humphrey the seventh upon a daughter and one of the heirs of William Breos Lord of Brecknock. His son Humphrey the eighth was slain at Boroughbrigg, leaving by Elizabeth his wife, daughter of King Edward the first, and dowager of the Earl of Holland, a numerous issue, viz. John Bohun, Humphrey the ninth, both Earls of Hereford and Essex, who dyed issueless; and William Earl of Northampton, who had by Elizabeth,8 sister and one of the heirs of Giles Lord Badlesmer, Humphrey Bohun (the tenth and last of the Bohuns) Earl of Hereford, Essex, and Northampton, as also Lord High Constable of England. He left two daughters, Eleanor the wife of Thomas de Woodstock Duke of Glocester, and Mary married to Henry of Lancaster Earl of Derby,Henry [...] four [...] [...] of E [...]g [...] who was created Duke of Hereford, and was afterwards crowned King of England. After this the Staffords Dukes of Buckingham, had the title of Earls of Hereford, who were descended from a daughter of Thomas of Woodstock, which daughter was afterwards married to William Bourchier, called Earl of Ew. But in our memory King Edward the sixth honour'd Walter D'Eureux, descended by the Bourchiers from the Bohuns, with the title of Viscount Hereford, whose grandchild by a son was afterwards created Earl of Essex by Queen Elizabeth.
This County contains 176 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to HEREFORDSHIRE.
[a] THE County of Hereford being as it were a Frontier in all the wars between the English and Welsh, has upon that account been very remarkable for its number of Forts and Castles (no fewer than 28.) the greatest part whereof have now little to show beside the name. Our Author observes it to be a very good Corn-Country; but its present peculiar eminence is in Fruits of all sorts, which give them an opportunity particularly of making such vast quantities of Syder, as not only to serve their own families, (for 'tis their general drink) but also to furnish London and other parts of England; their Red-streak (from a sort of Apple they call so) being exrtemely valu'd.
[b] Upon the river Wye, two miles from Hereford, is Eaton-wall,Eaton. Aubr. MS. a Camp containing about thirty or forty acres. The works of it are single, except a little on the West-side.
And about two miles from hence, and a mile from Kenchester, is Creden-hill; upon which is a very great Camp and mighty works: the graff here is inwards as well as outwards; and the whole contains by estimation about forty acres.
[c] Near which is Kenchester, Kenchester. Blome. where about the year 1669. was found in a wood a great vault, with tables of plaster in it. The vault it self was pav'd with stone; and thereabouts were dug up also many pieces of Roman Coins, with large Bones, leaden Pipes, several Roman Urns with ashes in them, and other vessels, the use whereof was unknown.
[d] A little lower stands its daughter Hereford, Hereford. in which name our Author would find some remains of the old Ariconium, whereas it is of a pure Saxon original, implying no more than a ford of the army: nor ought the vulgar's pronouncing it Hariford be of any weight, when it appears bySee the Glossary, and the several places wherein 'tis mention'd. our most ancient Annals that it was constantly written hereford. Which interpretation doth also suit the situation of the place exceeding well: the Severn being for many hundreds of years the frontier between two Nations almost always at war.
[e] LelandItinerar. MS. has told us that the Castle by the ruins appear'd to have been one of the fairest, largest, and strongest in all England. The walls were high, firm, and full of great towers; and where the river was not a sufficient defence for it, there it was strongly ditch'd. It had two wards, each of them surrounded with water: the dungeon was high and exceeding well fortify'd, having in the outward wall or ward ten towers of a semici [...]cular figure, and one great tower in the inner ward. As to the building of it, the s [...]me Leland has left us what tradition was on foot in his time, without taking any notice of our Author's Earl Milo. Some think (says he) that Heraldus [...]gan this Castle, after that he had conquer'd the rebellion of the Welshmen in King Edward the Confessor's time. Some think that the Lacies Earls of Hereford were the great makers of it, and the Bohuns Earls of Hereford.
[f] The City is pretty large, and numbred once six Parish Churches; but two of these were demolisht in the late Civil wars. It is govern'd by a Mayor and six Aldermen, a Recorder, &c. and has an Hospital liberally endow'd for the maintenance of 12 poor people,B [...]o [...] which had like to have gone to ruin, had not the care of William Gregory Esq and Mr. Humphrey Diggs prevented it.
[g] Above the City of Hereford, in the Parish of Dinder, A [...] is a Roman Camp call'd Oyster-hill; Oy [...]te [...]- [...] which name may perhaps retain some vestigia of Ostorius Scapula, who commanded in those parts; unless it appear to have some particular relation to the Shell-fish of that name.
[h] About the borders between Shropshire and this County, near Lanterdin, Io d. is a perfect Roman Camp call'd Brandon, Brando [...] very commodiously situated for Aquation by reason of the nearness of the river Teme. It is a single square work with four ports. And about half a mile from hence, on the other side of the river, was the British Camp, now cover'd with great Oaks, call'd Coxall. The curious Antiquary Mr. John Aubrey did observe in some old Deeds of Sir Edward Harley's (of Brampton-Bryan-castle hard by) that it is written Coxwall, not Coxall or Coxhall; so that the place seems to have had the latter part of its name from this vallum or wall, in like manner as the Wall in Wiltshire, Walton in Surrey, Eaton's-wall, and Walford under Brandon.
A quarter of a mile from Brandon, A [...]. there are two barrows: one of them was caus'd to be digg'd by Sir Edward Harley in the year 1662. wherein they met with a great deal of coals and some pieces of burnt bones. But in the middle they found an Urn about two foot and a half high, full of coals and ashes, with some pieces of burnt bones.
[i] Not far from hence is Richards-castle, Ri [...] ca t [...]. Le [...] I [...] which stands on the top of a very rocky hill, well wooded; but even in Leland's time the walls and towers of it were going to decay.
[k] More to the South, is Castle-park A [...], wherein is a large Camp with two great ditches, call'd the Ambry: from it there is a very lovely respect.
[l] And then upon the river, Lemster, [...]m [...]ter. [...]. where (‖ according to tradition) the King Merwald or Merwalsh (mention'd by our Author) and some of his Successors had a Castle or Palace on a hill-side by the town; the place (says Leland) is now call'd Comfor-castle, and there are to be seen tokens of ditches where buildings have been.
[m] Between Sutton and Hereford, in a common meadow call'd the Wergins, [...]g [...]s. were plac'd two large stones for a water-mark; [...]ee. [...] Coun [...] the one erected upright, and the other laid athwart. In the late Civil wars, about the year 1652. they were remov'd to about twelve score paces distance, and no body knew how; which gave occasion to a common opinion, That they were carry'd thither by the Devil. When they were set in their places again, one of them required nine yoke of oxen to draw it.
[...]br. MS.[n] Below Hereford, is Brockhampton, * near which on Capellar-hill [...]pel [...]ar- [...]. there is a very large squarish Camp call'd Wobury. It is double-trench'd and near half a mile long; tho' 'tis but narrow.
[o] Not far from Lidbury is Colwal, [...]wal. near which upon the Waste, as a Countryman was digging a ditch about his Cottage, he found a Crown or Coronet of gold, with gems set deep in it. It was of a size large enough to be drawn over the arm, sleeve and all. First it was sold to a Goldsmith in Glocester for 37 l. afterwards by him to a Jeweller in Lombard-street for 250 l. by whom (as a Goldsmith in Lombard-street reported) the stones were sold for 1500 l.
[p] In the South limit of this County is Doward Doward. (in the Parish of Whitchurch) a pretty high hill, on the top whereof one would guess by the ditches there had been an ancient fortification; and what makes it more probable, in digging there for Iron-ore and Lime-stone, broad Arrow-heads have been found of late years; and not along ago, the greatest part of the bones of a Gigantick person were found here interr'd in a place that seem'd to be arch'd over. The length of all the joints were twice the length of others of this age. Captain Scudamore of Kentchurch had the skull, and Mr. White of the New-wear near the place, had the remaining bones, and gave them to a Chirurgeon in Bristol.
Continuation of the VISCOUNTS.
Since this title came into the family of D'Eureux by Walter of that name, it has been possessed by two Roberts, both Earls of Leicester. But upon the death of the latter (who was also the last Earl of that family) Sir Walter D'eureux succeeded in the title of Viscount Hereford. After him it was enjoy'd by his son and grandson (both Leicesters) and the place at present gives this title to Edward of that name.
The following LETTER I receiv'd from Mr. Lhwyd, along with his Translation of the Welsh Counties, and his Additions to them. As it contains the method he has observ'd, with some general Rules relating to the Orthography and Pronunciation of the Welsh Tongue, it will be for the Reader's advantage to have it entire.
I Have herewith sent you the Translation of that part of the Britannia that relates to Wales; together with some Annotations on each County. I was always sensible there were several persons better qualified for this task than my self; and therefore (as you know) for some months declin'd the undertaking. But finding afterwards, that those Gentlemen who were fittest for it, could not have leisure to attend it; I thought it better (with the assistance and advice of Friends) to offer my best endeavours, than to leave it wholly to the management of some person less acquainted with the Language and Country. Thus having not enter'd upon this Province, till such as were more capable had declin'd it, as inconsistent with their private occasions; I hope what faults I have committed in the performance, may be something more excusable.
In the Translation, I have, without favour or prejudice, endeavour'd to retain the sense of the Author: but whereas I have sometimes differ'd in writing the Welsh names of Persons and Places; I presum'd few Readers would scruple to allow me that liberty. Nor can it derogate any thing from our excellent Author's character; that a native of that country should pretend to a more comprehensive knowledge of the British than himself. However in this case, as I have not wholly written the Welsh words according to the English Custom; so neither have I kept strictly to the common method of writing Welsh; but have us'd a more general Alphabet, whereby such as are unacquainted with that Language will pronounce the words much truer; and they that understand it will find no occasion of mistakes. For example, in regard the letter C. in the Welsh and Irish, is before all Vowels pronounced like K. (as Cilcen is read Kilken,) but in every other language, obtains that Pronunciation only before a. o. and u. I have in such words as are purely Welsh substituted K. for it; in the pronunciation whereof, all Languages agree. Nor can the Criticks in the Welsh call this an Innovation, the Letter K. being common in ancient MSS. though never used in printed Books. I have also for the like reasons taken the same liberty in writing V for F, and F for Ff, Lh for Ll, and Dh for Dd. And whereas the word Lhan in the names of Churches is commonly joyn'd with that which follows; as Lhanèlian, Lhaniestin, &c. I thought it better Orthography to separate it; writing Lhan Elian, which signifies St. Aelian's Church; and Lhan Iestin, i.e. St. Justin's. As for the Annotations I have added at the end of each County, such as have the Letters of direction prefix'd, are Notes on those places they refer to in the Text, with occasional Additions. And whereas in some Counties I had Notes to add which did not refer at all to any part of the Text; I have inserted them after the Annotations, with this mark ¶ prefixt. What I have added, are generally observations of my own; and where they are not so, I have taken care to inform the Reader. I find upon perusal of Cornwall and those other Counties you lately sent me, that the additional Notes on the English Counties are much more compleat than these, and somewhat in a different method. But my task was too large to be well perform'd by one hand, except more time had been allow'd. And having receiv'd no pattern for imitation, but only some general Instructions, I knew not how far I might enlarge; and to have jump'd into the same method, must have been a great accident. However, I find the difference is not very material: nor is it of any great moment, what method we use in Annotations, so we take care to add nothing but what may seem, to the best of our apprehension, pertinent and instructive. What faults you find in the Orthography, I desire you would be pleas'd to correct; and also in the Phrase, where you suppose it convenient. And where we disagree in the sense, I shall upon notice thereof, either give directions to alter it, or offer some reasons to the contrary.
Pronunciation of the WELSH.
Ch is pronounced as the English Gh amongst the Vulgar in the North, but more roughly.
Dh as Th in the words This, That, &c.
G as the English G in the words Gain, Gift, &c.
I as in English, in the words Win, Kin; but never as in Wind, Kind, &c.
Lh is only a sibilating L, and is pronounc'd in respect of L as Th with reference to T.
U as the English I in the words Limb, Him, &c.
W is always a Vowel, and pronounced like the English oo.
Y as I in the English words Third, Bird; O in Honey, Money; U in Mud, Must, &c.
All the other Letters are pronounc'd as in English, and never alter their pronunciation.
' denotes a long Vowel; as Mân is pronounced like the English word Mane.
' shews only the Accent in short Vowels.
RADNORSHIRE.
ON the north-west of Herefordshire lies Radnorshire, in British Sîr Vaesŷved; of a triangular form, and gradually more narrow where it is extended westward. On the south the river Wye divides it from Brecknock, and on the north-part lies Mongomeryshire. The eastern and southern parts are well cultivated; but elsewhere 'tis so uneven with mountains, that it can hardly be manured; tho' well-stored with woods, and water'd with rivulets, and in some places standing lakes.
Towards the east, it hath (besides other Castles of the Lords Marchers, now almost all bury'd in their own ruins) Castelh pain to adorn it, which was built and so called by Pain a Norman; and Castelh Colwen, [...]telh [...]lwen which (if I mistake not) was formerly call'd Maud-Castle in Colwent. [...]ud- [...]stle. v. [...]stelh [...]wn. For there was a Castle of that name much noted, whereof Robert de Todney, a very eminent person, was Governour in the time of Edward 2. It is thought to have belong'd before to the Breoses Lords of Brecknock, and to have receiv'd that name from Maud of St. Valeric, P [...]ta [...]s [...]a [...]tth. Par. a † malapert woman, wife of William Breos, who rebell'd against King John. This Castle being demolish'd by the Welsh, was rebuilt of stone by King Henry 3. in the year 1231. But of greatest note is Radnor, [...]dnor. the chief town of the County, call'd in British Maesŷved, fair built, but with thatch'd houses, as is the manner of that country. Formerly 'twas well fenc'd with walls and a Castle, but being by that rebellious Owen Glyn Dòwrdwy [...]en [...]yndwr. laid in ashes, it decay'd daily; as well as old Radnor [...]d Radnor (call'd by the Britains Maesŷved hên, and from it's high situation Pencraig) which had been burnt by Rhŷs ap Gruffydh, in the reign of King John. If I should say this Maesŷved is that city Magos which Antoninus seems to call Magnos, [...]gi. where (as we read in the Notitia Provinciarum) the Commander of the Pacensian regiment lay in garison under the Lieutenant of Britain, in the reign of Theodosius the younger; in my own judgment (and perhaps others may entertain the same thoughts) I should not be much mistaken. For we find that the Writers of the middle age call the inhabitants of this Country Magesetae, [...]ges [...]tae. and also mention Comites Masegetenses and Magesetenses: and the distance from Gobannium or Aber-Gavenni, as also from Brangonium or Worcester, differs very little from Antonine's computation. About three miles to the east of Radnor, lies Prestean, [...]estean. in British Lhan Andras, or St. Andrews; which from a small village, in the memory of our grandfathers, is now, by the favour and encouragement of Martin Lord Bishop of St. David's, become so eminent a market town, that it does in some measure eclipse Radnor. Scarce four miles hence, lies Knighton [...]ighton. (which may vye with Prestean) call'd by the Britains, as I am inform'd, Trebuclo for Trevŷklawdh, from the dike [...] Dike. that lies under it, which was cast up with great labour and industry by Offa the Mercian, as a boundary between his Subjects and the Britains; f om the mouth of Dee, to that of the river Wye, for the space of about 90 miles: whence the Britains have call'd it Klawdh Offa or Offa's Dyke. Concerning which, Joannes Sarisburiensis, in his Polycraticon saith, that Harald establish'd a Law, that whatever Welshman should be found arm'd on this side the limit he had set them, to wit, Offa's Dike, his right hand should be cut off by the King's officers [a].
All the land beyond this, towards the west and north, call'd by the natives Melienydh, [...]ie [...]ydh. from the yellowish mountains, is for the most part a barren and hungry soil. Which notwithstanding shews the ruins of divers Castles, [...]n y [...]s [...]min [...] [...]. but especially of Kevn Lhys, and Tinbod standing ‖ on the summit of a cop'd hill, and was destroy'd by Lhewelyn Prince of Wales in the year 1260. This Country of Melienydh reaches to the river Wye [b], which crosses the western angle of the County; and having it's rapid course somewhat abated by the rocks it meets with, and it's channel discontinued, it suddenly falls headlong over a steep precipice. Whence the place is call'd Rhàiadr Gŵy, Rhaiadr Gwy. which implies as much as the Cataract or fall of the river Wye [c]. And I know not whether the English might not from that word Rhàiadr impose the name of Radnor first on the County, and afterwards on the chief town therein. By this Cataract there was a Castle, which, as we find it recorded, was repair'd by Rhŷs Prince of South-Wales in the reign of King Richard the first. Near this place there is a vast Wilderness, dismal to behold by reason of many crooked ways and high mountains: into which, as a safe place of refuge, that bane of his native Country, King Vortigern Vortigern. (whose very memory the Britains curse) withdrew himself, when he had at last seriously repented of his abominable wickedness, in calling in the English-Saxons, and incestuously marrying his own daughter. But God's vengeance pursuing him, he was consumed by Lightning, together with his City Kaer-Gwortigern, which he had built for his refuge. Nor was it far from hence (as if the place were fatal) that not only this Vortigern the last British Monarch of the race of the Britains; but also Lhewelyn Lhewelyn. the last Prince of Wales of the British line, being betray'd in the year of our Lord 1282. ended his life. From this Vortigern, Ninnius calls that small region Gwortiger mawr, nor is the name yet lost; but of the city there is not any memorial, but what we have from Authors. Some are of opinion that the Castle of Gwthrènion Gwerthrynion. arose out of the ruins of it; which the Welshmen for their hatred to Roger Mortimer, laid even with the ground An. 1201. This part of the Country hath been also call'd Gwarth Ennion, as we are inform'd by Ninnius; who writes, that the foremention'd Vortigern, when he was publickly and sharply reproved by St. German, did not only persist in his obstinacy and wicked practices, but also cast false and malicious reproaches on that godly Saint. Wherefore (saith Ninnius) Vortimer the son of Vortigern ordain'd that the Land where the Bishop had receiv'd so great an indignity, should be his own for ever. Guarth in British Calumny; and Eniawn Just. Upon which, and in memory of St. German, it has been call'd Gwarth Enian, which in English signifies a slander justly requited.
The Mortimers descended from the Niece of Gonora wife of Rich. 1. Duke of Normandy;Earls of March. G. Gemet. l. ult. c. 10. were the first of the Normans, who, having overcome Edric Weald or Wild. Sylvaticus a Saxon, gain'd a considerable part of this small Territory. And having continued for a long time the leading-men of the County, at length Roger Mortimer Lord of Wigmore was created Earl of March by Edw. 3. about 1328. who soon after was sentenced to death, having been accused of insolence to the State, of favouring the Scots to the prejudice of England, of conversing over-familiarly with the King's mother; and contriving the death of his father King Edward 2. He had by his wife Jane Jenevil, L [...]b. Monast. Lanthony. 29 Ed. 3. (who brought him large revenues as well in Ireland as England) a son call'd Edmund, who suffer'd for his father's crimes, and was depriv'd both of his inheritance and the title of Earl. But his son Roger was received into favour, and had not only the title of Earl of March restored, but was also created Knight of the Garter at the first institution of that noble Order. This Roger married Philippa Mountague, by whom he had Edmund Earl of March, who marry'd Philippa the only daughter of Leonel Duke of Clarence, the third son of King Edward 3. whereby he obtained the Earldom of Ulster in Ireland, and the Lordship of Clare. After his decease in Ireland, where he had govern'd with general applause, his son Roger succeeded, being both Earl of March and Ulster; whom King Richard design'd his successor to the crown, as being in right of his mother the next heir: but he dying before King Richard, left issue Edmund and Anne. King Henry 4. (who had [Page 587-588] usurp'd the Government) suspecting Edmund's Interest and Title to the Crown, exposed him to many hazards; insomuch that being taken by the Rebel Owen Glyn-Dwr, he died of grief and discontent, leaving his sister Anne to inherit. She was married to Richard Plantagenet Earl of Cambridge, whose Posterity in her right became afterwards Earls of March, and laid claim to the Crown;See in Y [...] shire, towards [...]e end of [...]e Co [...]nty. which in the end (as we shall shew elsewhere) they obtain'd: and Edward the fourth's eldest son, who was Prince of Wales, Duke of Cornwall, &c. had also conferr'd on him as an additional honour the title of Earl of March. As for the title of Radnora, no man ever bo [...]e it separately, that I know of.
In this County are 52 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to RADNORSHIRE.
[a] THE first place of considerable Antiquity we meet with in this Country is Clawdh Offa, Extent of Clawdh Offa. the tracing whereof gives us the exact bounds of the Britains and Saxons. It may be seen on Brachy-hill, and near Rŷhd ar Helig, and Lanterden in Herefordshire: and is continued Northwards from Knighton, over a part of Shropshire into Mongomeryshire; and may be traced over the long Mountain call'd in Welsh Kevn Digolh, to Harden castle, cross the Severn and Lhan Drinio-Common. From whence it passes the Vyrnwy again into Shropshire, not far from Oswaldstry, where there is also a small village call'd Trevyrclawdh. In Denbighshire 'tis visible along the road between Rhywabon and Wrexham; f [...]om whence being continued through Flintshire, it ends a little below Holywell, where that water falls into Dee, at a place formerly the site of the castle of Basingwerk. This limit seems not afterwards well maintain'd by the English: for although we find that the British tongue decreases daily on the borders of Wales; yet not only that language, but also the ancient British customs and names of men and places remain still for some space on the English side, almost the whole length of it.
[b] The word Gwy or Wy, Gwy or Wy, what it signifieth. though it be here the name of a river, seems to have been anciently an appellative word either for river or water. For although it be not used at present in that sense, nor yet preserv'd in any Glossary, or other Books; yet I find it in the termination of the names of many of our rivers: ex. gr. Lhugwy, Dowrdwy, y Vyrnwy, Edwy, Conwy, Elwy, Hondhwy, Mynwy, Mowdhwy, Tawy, Towy, &c. Now that this final syllable [wy] in these names of rivers, is the same with gwy, seems more than probable; in that we find the river Towy call'd in the Book of Landaffe Tiugui—ab hostio Taratir super ripam Gui, usque ad ripam Tiugui, &c. and also the river Elwy call'd Elgui. And that gwy or wy signified water, seems also confirm'd from the names of some aquatick animals, as Gwyach, Gîach, eog aliàs oiog, &c. This being granted, we may be able to interpret the names of several rivers which have hitherto remain'd unintelligible: as Lhugwy, clear water; from lhug, which signifies light or brightness: Dowrdwy, Loud water, from Dwradh, noise: Edwy, a swift or rapid stream; from Ehed, to fly, &c.
[c] As for Rhàiadr Gŵy, several places in Wales are thus denominated; all which have cataracts near them: and the word is still used appellatively among the mountains of Snowdon in Caernarvonshire, where such falls of water are very frequent. Rhaiadar-castle (whereof not the least ruins are now remaining) was very advantageously situated in a nook of the river, close by this Cataract. But what seems very remarkable, is a deep trench on one side of the Castle-ya [...]d, cut out of an exceeding hard and solid rock. About two furlongs below this place where the castle stood, I observ'd a large Tumulus or Barrow, call'd from a Chapel adjoyning, Tommen lhan St. Frêd: and on the other side, at a farther distance, there are two more,B [...]rrows or L [...]ws call'd in Welsh Krigeu. much less than the former, call'd Krigeu Kevn Keido, viz. the Barrows of Kevn Keido, a place so call'd; where 'tis suppos'd there stood heretofore a Church; for that a piece of ground adjoyning is call'd Klyttieu'r Eglwys.
¶ On the top of a hill, call'd Gwastèdin near Rhaiadr Gŵy, there are three large heaps of stones, of that kind which are common upon mountains, in most (if not all) Counties of Wales, and are call'd in South-wales Karneu, Kar [...] wi [...] it sign [...]s and in North-wales Karnedheu. They consist of any such lesser stones from a pound weight to a hund [...]ed &c. as the neighbouring places afford; and are confusedly piled up without any farther trouble than the bringing them thither, and the throwing of them in heaps. On Plin Lhimmon mountain, and some other places, there are of these Karnedheu so considerably big, that they may be supposed to consist of no less than a hundred Cartloads of stones; but generally consider'd, they are much less. They are also found in the North, and probably other parts of England; and are frequent in Scotland and Ireland, being call'd there by the same British name of Kairn: whereof I can give no other account to the curious Reader, than that it is a primitive word, and appropriated to signifie such heaps of stones. That most of these Karnedheu (not to say all) were intended as memorials of the dead, I am induced to believe, for that I have my self observed near the summit of one of them, a rude stone monument (which I shall have occasion to prove Sepulchral hereafter) somewhat of the form of a large Coffer or Chest; and have receiv'd unquestionable information of two more such monuments, found of late years in the like places. But what removes all scruple, and puts this question beyond farther debate, is that 'tis still the custom in several places, to cast heaps of stones on the Graves of Malefactors and Self-murderers. And hence perhaps it is, since we can assign no other reason, that the worst of Traytors are call'd Karn-Vradwyr, the most notorious Thieves Karn-Lhadron, &c. That this was also the custom amongst the Romans, appears from that Epitaph ascrib'd to Virgil, on the infamous Robber Balista:
But that it was nevertheless usual among the Britains, before they were known to the Romans, seems evident, for that they are common also in the Highlands of Scotland, and in Ireland, where their Conquests never reach'd.
Now if it be demanded whether Malefactors only, were thus serv'd in ancient times; or whether other persons indifferently had not such heaps of stones erected to them, as Sepulchral monuments: I answer, that before Christianity was introduced, men of the best quality seem to have had such Funeral Piles: and such I take to have been the largest of them, those especially that have the monuments above mentioned within them. But since the planting of Christianity, they became so detestable and appropriated to Malefactors, that sometimes the most passionate wishes a man can express to his enemy is, that a Karn be his monument: Karn [...] Wyn [...]. and (as we have already observ'd) the most notorious and profligate Criminals are distinguish'd by that word.
BRECKNOCKSHIRE.
ON the South of Radnor lies Brecknockshire, in British Brycheinog, so call'd, as the Welsh suppose,Gira [...]d. [...]mo. [...] c. [...]. from Prince * Brechanius, who is said to have had a numerous and holy Off-spring, to wit, twenty four daughters, all Saints. This is considerably a larger County than Radnorshire, but more mountainous, tho' in many places 'tis adorn'd with fruitful and pleasant vales. It is bounded on the East with Hereford, on the South with Monmouth and Glamorgan, and on the West with Caermardhinshire. But since nothing can be added in the describing of this small Province, to what the industrious Giraldus Cambrensis hath already written, (who was Arch-Deacon hereof four hundred years since) I may do well for some time to be silent, and call him to my assistance.
Brechiniauc (saith he in his Itinerary of Wales) is a Land sufficiently abounding with corn, whereof if there be any defect, 'tis amply supply'd from the borders of England; and is well stor'd with Woods, Pastures, wild Deer, and herds of Cattel. It hath also plenty of River-fish from Usk and Wy, both abounding with Salmon and Trout, but the Wy with a better sort call'd Umbrae. It is inclosed on all parts, except the North, with high mountains: having on the West the mountains of Cantre-bychan; and towards the South, the Southern-hills, whereof the chiefest is call'd Kader Arthur, or Arthur's Chair; from two peaks on the top of it, somewhat resembling a Chair. Which in regard 'tis a lofty seat, and a place of strength, is ascribed in the vulgar appellation of it, to Arthur the most puissant and absolute Monarch of the Britains. A fountain springs on the very top of this hill; which is as deep as a draw-well, and four square, affording Trouts, tho' no water runs out of it. Being thus guarded on the South with high mountains, 'tis defended from the heat of the Sun with cool briezes; which by an innate salubrity of air, renders the Country exceeding temperate. On the East it hath the mountains of Talgarth and Ewias.
On the North (as he saith) 'tis a more open and champain Country; where 'tis divided from Radnorshire by the river Wy: upon which there are two towns of noted antiquity, Bûalht [...]ht. [a] and Hay. Bûalht is a town pleasantly seated, with woods about it, and fortified with a castle; but of a later building by the Breoses and Mortimers, when as Rhŷs ap Gryffydh had demolished the old one. At present 'tis noted for a good market; but formerly it seems to have been a place very eminent: for Ptolemy observes the Longitude and Latitude of it, and calls it Bullaeum [...]eum. Silurum [b]. From this town the neighbouring part (a mountainous and rocky Country) is call'd Bualht, into which upon the Incursion of the Saxons, King Vortigern retir'd. And there also by the permission of Aurelius Ambrosius, his son Pascentius govern'd; as we are inform'd by Ninnius, who in his Chapter of Wonders, relates I know not what prodigious story of a heap of stones here, wherein might be seen the footsteps of King Arthur's Hound. Hay, in British Tregelhi (which in English we may render Haseley or Hasleton) lyes on the bank of the river Wy, upon the borders of Herefordshire: a place which seems to have been well known to the Romans, since we often find their coyns there, and some ruins of walls are still remaining. But now being almost totally decay'd, it complains of the outrages of that profligate Rebel Owen Glyn-Dowrdwy, who in his march through these Countries, consum'd it with fire [c].
As the river Wy watereth the Northern part of this County, so the Usk, a noble river, takes its course through the midst of it [d], which falling headlong from the Black-mountain, and forcing a deep Chanel, passes by Brecknock [...]knock. the chief town of the County, placed almost in the Center thereof. This town the Britains call Aber-Hondhy, [...]hodni [...]do [...]b. from the confluence of the two rivers, Hondhy and Usk. That it was inhabited in the time of the Romans, is evident from several coyns of their Emperours, sometimes found there. Bernard Newmarch, who conquered this small County, built here a stately Castle, which the Breoses and Bohuns afterward repaired; and in our Fathers memory, King Henry the eighth constituted a Collegiate Church of 14 Prebendaries (in the Priory of the Dominicans) which he translated thither from Aber-Gwily in Caer-mardhinshire.
Two miles to the East of Brecknock, is a large Lake, which the Britains call Lhyn Savèdhan and Lhyn Savàdhan: Lhyn Savadham. Giraldus calls it Clamosum, from the terrible noise it makes, like a clap of thunder, at the cracking of the Ice. In English 'tis call'd Brecknockmere: Brecknockmere. it is two miles long, and near the same breadth, well stored with Otters, and also Perches, Tenches and Eels, which the Fishermen take in their Coracls. Lhewèni, a small river, having enter'd this Lake, still retains its own colour, and as it were disdaining a mixture, is thought to carry out no more, nor other water than what it brought in. It hath been an ancient tradition in this neighbourhood, that where the Lake is now, there was formerly a City, which being swallow'd up by an Earthquake, resign'd its place to the waters [d]. And to confirm this, they alledge (besides other arguments) that all the highways of this County tend to this Lake. Which if true, what other City may we suppose on the river Lheweny, but Loventium, Loventium. placed by Ptolemy in this tract; which tho' I have diligently search'd for, yet there appears no where any remains of the name, ruins, or situation of it. Marianus (which I had almost forgotten) seems to call this place Bricenaumere, Bricenaumere. who tells us that Edelfleda the Mercian Lady enter'd the Land of the Britains Anno 913. in order to reduce a castle at Bricenaumere; and that she there took the Queen of the Britains prisoner. Whether that castle were Brecknock it self,Brecknock-castle. or Castelh Dinas on a steep tapering Rock above this Lake, remains uncertain; but it's manifest from the Records of the Tower, that the neighbouring castle of Blaen Lheveny, Blaen Lheveni-castle. was the chief place of that Barony which was the possession of Peter Fitz-Herbert, the son of Herbert Lord of Dean-forest, by Lucy the daughter of Miles Earl of Hereford [e].
In the reign of William Rufus, Bernard Newmarch the Norman, a man of undaunted courage,Lords of Brecknock. and great policy, having levied a considerable Army both of English and Normans, was the first that attempted the reducing of this Country. And having at length, after a tedious war, extorted it from the Welsh, he built Forts therein, and gave possession of Lands to his Fellow-souldiers; amongst whom the chiefest were the Aubreys, a Gunters, Haverds, Waldebeofs, and Prichards. And the better to secure himself amongst his enemies the Welsh, he married Nêst, the daughter of Prince Gruffydh; who being a woman of a licentious and revengeful temper, at once depriv'd her self of her own reputation, and her son of his Inheritance. For Mahel the only son of this Bernard, having affronted a young Nobleman with whom she conversed too familiarly; she (as the Poet saith) iram atque animos à crimine sumens, depos'd before King Henry the second, that her son Mahel was begotten in adultery. Upon which, Mahel being excluded, the estate devolved to his sister Sibyl, and in her right to her husband Miles Earl of Hereford; whose five sons dying without issue, this Country of Brecknock became the Inheritance of Bertha his daughter, who had by Philip de Breos a son, William de Breos, Lord of Brecknock;Called also Braus and Breus. upon whom the seditious spirit andProcax. shrewd tongue of hisMatildis de Haia. wife drew infinite calamities. For when she had utter'd reproachful language against King John, the King strictly commanded her husband, [Page] who was deep in his debt, to discharge it. Who after frequent demurrings, at last mortgaged to the King his three castles of Hay, Brecknock, and Radnor, which yet soon after he surprised, putting the Garrisons to the Sword: he also burnt the town of Lemster; and thus with fire, sword, and depredations, continued to annoy the Country, omitting nothing of the common practice of Rebels. But upon the approach of the King's forces, he withdrew into Ireland, where he associated with the King's enemies: yet pretending a submission, he return'd, and surrender'd himself to the King, who had intended to follow him; but after many feign'd promises, he again rais'd new commotions in Wales. At last being compell'd to quit his native country, he died an Exile in France: but his wife being taken, suffer'd the worst of miseries; for she was starv'd in prison, and thus did severe penance for her scurrilous language. His son Giles, Bishop of Hereford, having (without regard to his nephew, who was the true heir) recover'd his father's estate by permission of King John, left it to his brother Reginald; whose son William was hang'd by Lhewelin Prince of Wales, who had caught him in adultery with his wife. But by the daughters of that William, the Mortimers, Cantelows, and Bohuns, Earls of Hereford, enjoy'd plentiful fortunes. This country of Brecknock fell to the Bohuns, and at length from them to the Staffords; and upon the attainder of Edward Stafford Duke of Buckingham, considerable revenues were forfeited to the crown, in this County.
This County has 61 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to BRECKNOCKSHIRE.
[a] UPon the river Wye is Bualht, whereof in the year 1690. a considerable part, being that side of the street next the river Wye, was by a casual fire totally consumed.
[b] Whether this town of Bualht be the ancient Bullaeum, or whether that city or fort (allowing it to have been in this County) was not at a place call'd Kaereu, Kaereu. some miles distant from it, may be question'd. At leastwise 'tis evident there hath been a Roman fort at Kaereu: for besides that the name implies as much (signifying strictly the Walls or Rampire, and was prefix'd by the Britains to the names of almost all Roman towns and castles) they frequently dig up bricks there, and find other manifest signs of a Roman work. 'Tis now only the name of a Gentleman's house; and not far from it, there is also another house call'd Castelhan. If it be urg'd in favour of Buelht, that it seems still to retain its ancient name, which Ptolemy might render [...]: it may be answer'd, that Buelht, Buelht, what it signifies. which I interpret Colles boum [Ox-Cliff or Oxen-Holt] was the name of a small Country here, from whence in all likelihood the ancient Bullaeum (if it stood in this tract) was denominated: but that being totally destroy'd, and this town becoming afterwards the most noted place of the Country, it might also receive its name from it, as the former had done. But (that I may dissemble nothing) since the congruity of the names was the main argument that induc'd our learned Author to assign this situation to the ancient Bullaeum Silurum; we shall have occasion of hesitating, if hereafter we find the ruins of a Roman fort or city in a neighbouring Country of the Silures, the name whereof may agree with Bullaeum no less than Buelht.
[c] Of the famous Owen Glyn-dwr Owen G yndwr. or Glyn-Dowrdwy, I find the following account in some notes of the learned and judicious Antiquary Robert Vaughan of Hengwrt Esq. ‘Sir Davidh Gam was wholly devoted to the interest of the Duke of Lancaster; upon which account it was, that Owen ap Gruffydh Vychan (commonly call'd Owen Glyn-Dŵr) was his mortal enemy. This Owen had his education at one of the Inns of Court, and was preferr'd to the service of King Richard 2. whose Scutifer (as Walsingham saith) he was. Owen being assured that his King and Master Richard was deposed and murder'd, and withall provoked by several affronts and wrongs done him by the Lord Grey of Ruthin his neighbour, whom King Henry very much countenanced against him; took arms, and looking upon Henry as an Usurper, caus'd himself to be proclaim'd Prince of Wales. And though himself were descended paternally but from a younger brother of the house of Powis, yet (as ambition is ingenious) he finds out a way to lay claim to the Principality, as descended (by a daughter) f [...]om Lhewelyn ap Gruffydh the last Prince of the British race. He invaded the lands, burnt and destroy'd the houses and estates of all those that favour'd and adher'd to King Henry. He call'd a Parliament to meet at Machynlheth in Montgomeryshire: whither the Nobility and Gentry of Wales came, in obedience to his summons; and among them the said David Gam, but with an intention to murder Owen. The plot being discover'd, and he taken before he could put it in execution, he was like to have suffer'd as a Traitor: but intercession was made for him by Owen's best friends and the greatest upholders of his cause; whom he could not either honourably or safely deny. Yet notwithstanding this pardon, as soon as he return'd to his own Country, where he was a man of considerable interest, he exceedingly annoy'd Owen's friends. Not long after, Owen enter'd the Marches of Wales, destroying all with fire and sword; and having then burnt the house of Sir David Gam, 'tis reported he spake thus to one of his tenants:’
The British name of this river is Wysk, Usk. whenc [...] nom [...]n [...] which word seems a derivative from Gwy or Wy, whereof the Reader may see some account in Radnorshire. At present it is not significative in the British; but is still preserv'd in the Irish tongue, and is their common word for water. There were formerly in Britain many Rivers of this name, which may be now distinguish'd in England by these shadows of it, Ex, Ox, Ux, Ouse, Esk, &c. But because such as are unacquainted with Etymological Observations, may take this for a groundless conjecture; that it is not such will appear, because in Antonine's Itinerary we find Exeter call'd Isca Danmoniorum from its situation on the river Ex, and also a city upon this river Usk (for the same reason) call'd Isca Leg. II.
[d] We find the tradition of Cities being drown'd apply'd to many other lakes in Wales;The fi [...] ing of [...] town [...] the S [...] ha [...] a [...] ro [...] trad [...]t [...]o [...] as Pwlh-Kynffig in Glamorganshire, Lhyn Lhan Lhŵch in Kaermardhinshire, Ylhyngwyn in Radnorshire, Lhyn Dekwyn ucha in Meirionydhshire, and Lhyn Lhyngklys in Shropshire. All which I suspect as fabulous, and not worth any farther notice, than as one of those erroneous traditions of the Vulgar, from which few (if any) Nations are exempted. It cannot be denied but that in Sicily, the Kingdom of Naples, and such other Countries as are subject to violent earthquakes and subterraneous fires, such accidents have hapned: but since no Histories inform us that any part of Britain was ever sensible of such calamities; I see no reason we have to regard these oral traditi [...]ns. As for Ptolemy's Louentinum of the Dimetae, which [Page]
[Page] [Page 593-594] our Author suspects to have been swallow'd up by this lake; I shall have occasion to offer some conjectures relating thereto in Cardiganshire.
[e] ‘Bernard Newmarch having discomfited and slain in the field Bledhyn ap Maenyrch, [...]edhyn [...]p Mein [...]ch. seised on the Lordship of Brecon, and forced his son and heir Gwgan to be content with that share of it he was pleas'd by way of composition to appoint him. He gave him the Lordship and Manours of Lhan Vihangel Tal y Lhyn, part of Lhan Lhyeni and Kantrev Seliv, with lodgings in the castle of Brecknock; where, in regard he was the rightful Lord of the Country, there was such a strict eye kept over him, that he was not permitted at any time to go abroad without two or more Norman Knights in his company.’ R. Vaug.
¶ At a place call'd y Gaer near Brecknock, there stands a remarkable monument in the highway, commonly call'd Maen y Morynnion, [...]aen y [...]orynnion or the Maiden stone. It is a rude pillar, erected in the midst of the road, about six foot high, two in breadth, and six inches thick. On the one side, where it inclines a little, it shews the portraictures of a man and woman in some ancient habit. It seems to have been carv'd with no small labour, though with little art; for the Figures are considerably rais'd above the superficies of the stone, and all that part where they stand is depress'd lower than that above their heads or under their feet. That 'tis very ancient, is unquestionable; but whether a British Antiquity, or done by some unskilful Roman Artist, I shall not pretend to determine; but recommend it (together with the tradition of the neighbours concerning it) to the farther disquisition of the curious.
At Pentre Yskythrog in Lhan St. Aerêd parish,Insc. at Pentre Yskythrog. there is a stone pillar erected in the highway, about the same height with the former, but somewhat of a depress'd-cylinder form; with this mutilated Inscription to be read downwards.
I suppose this Inscription (notwithstanding the name Victorinus) to have been somewhat of a later date than the time of the Romans; and that 'tis only a monument of some person buried there, containing no more than his own name and his father's; N. — filius Victorini.
[...]nsc. [...] [...]ae [...]or.But this upon a cross in the highway at Vaenor parish is yet much later; the Inscription whereof, though it be intirely preserv'd, is to me unintelligible; for I dare not rely on a slight conjecture I had at first view of it, that it might be read; In nomine Domini Jesu Christi, Tilus: Tilaus or Teilaw being an eminent Saint, to whom many Churches in Wales are consecrated.
[...]t. I [...]tut's C [...].In Lhan Hammwlch parish there is an ancient monument commonly call'd Tŷ Ilhtud or St. Iltut's Hermitage. It stands on the top of a hill, not far from the Church; and is composed of four large stones somewhat of a flat form, altogether rude and unpolish'd. Three of which are so pitch'd in the ground, and the fourth laid on the top for a cover; that they make an oblong square Hut, open at the one end; about eight foot long, four wide, and near the same height. Having enter'd it, I found the two side-stones thus inscrib'd with variety of crosses.
I suppose this Cell, notwithstanding the crosses and the name, to have been erected in the time of Paganism; for that I have elsewhere observ'd such monuments (to be hereafter mention'd) plac'd in the center of circles of stones, somewhat like that at Rolrich in Oxfordshire. And though there is not at present such a circle about this; yet I have grounds to suspect they may have been carried off, and applied to some use. For there has been one remov'd very lately, which stood within a few paces of this Cell, and was call'd Maen Ilhtud; and there are some stones still remaining there.
James Butler, afterwards Duke of Ormond, was created Earl of Brecknock, Jul. 20. 1660.
MONMOƲTHSHIRE.
THE County of Monmouth, call'd formerly Wentset or Wentsland, and by the Britains Gwent (from an ancient City of that name) lies southward of Brecknock and Herefordshire. On the north 'tis divided from Herefordshire by the river Mynwy; on the east from Glocestershire by the river Wye; on the west from Glamorganshire by Rhymni; and on the south 'tis bounded by the Severn sea, into which those rivers, as also Usk (that runs through the midst of this County) are discharged. It affords not only a competent plenty for the use of the inhabitants, but also abundantly supplies the defects of the neighbouring Counties. The east part abounds with pastures and woods; the western is somewhat mountainous and rocky, though not unserviceable to the industrious husbandman. The inhabitants (saith Giraldus, writing of the time when he liv'd) are a valiant and courageous people; much inured to frequent Skirmishes; and the most skilful archers of all the Welsh borderers.
In the utmost corner of the County Southward, call'd Ewias, Ewias. stands the ancient Abbey of Lantoni, Lantoni. not far from the river Mynwy, amongst Hatterel-hills; which because they bear some resemblance to a chair, are call'd Mynydh Kader [a]. It was founded by Walter Lacy, La [...]y. to whom William Earl of Hereford gave large possessions here; and from whom those Lacies, so renown'd amongst the first Conquerours of Ireland, were descended. Giraldus Cambrensis (to whom it was well known) can best describe the situation of this small Abbey. In the low vale of Ewias (saith he) which is about an arrow-shot over, and enclos'd on all sides with high mountains, stands the Church of St. John Baptist, cover'd with lead; and considering the solitariness of the place, not unhandsomly built with an arched roof of stone: in the same place where formerly stood a small Chapel of St. David's the Arch-Bishop, recommended with no other Ornaments than green moss and ivy. A place fit for true Religion, and the most conveniently seated for canonical discipline, of any Monastery in the Island of Britain: built first (to the honour of that solitary life) by two Hermits, in this Desert, sufficiently remote from all the noise of the world, upon the river Hodeni, which glides through the midst of the vale. Whence 'twas call'd Lhan Hodeni;Hodney, al. Hondhi. Lhan signifying a Church or Religious place [b]. But to speak more accurately, the true name of that place in Welsh is Nant Hodeni; for Nant signifies a rivulet: whence the Inhabitants call it at this day Lhan-Dhewi yn Nant-Hodeni, i.e. St. David's Church on the river Hodeni. The rains which mountainous places always produce, are here very frequent; the winds exceeding fierce, and the Winters almost continually cloudy. Yet notwithstanding that gross air, this place is little obnoxious to diseases. The Monks sitting here in their Cloisters, when they chance to look out for fresh air, have a pleasing prospect on all hands of exceeding high mountains, with plentiful herds of wild Deer, feeding aloft at the [...]arthest limits of their Horizon. The This is contradicted by such as know the place. body of the Sun surmounts not these hills, so as to be visible to them, till it be past one a clock, even when the air is most clear. And a little after—The fame of this place drew hither Roger Bishop of Salisbury, prime Minister of State; who having for some time admired the situation and retired solitariness of it, and al [...]o the contented condition of the Monks, serving God with due reverence; and their most agreeable and brotherly conversation; being returned to the King, and having spent the best part of a day in the praises of it, he at last thus concluded his discourse: What shall I say more! all the Tre [...]sure of your Majesty and the Kingdom would not suffice to build such a Cloister. Whereupon both the King and Courtiers being astonish'd, he at last explain'd that paradox, by telling them he meant the mountains wherewith 'twas on all hands enclos'd. But of this enough, if not too much.
On the river Mynwy are seen the castles of Grossmont Grossmont. and Skinffrith, Skinffrith. which formerly by a Grant of King John belong'd to the Breoses, but afterwards to Hubert de Burgh, who (as we are inform'd byHist. Min. Matthew Paris) that he might calm a Court-tempest of Envy, resign'd up these and two other castles, to wit, Blank and Hanfeld, to King Edward the third.
In another corner North-eastward, the river Mynwy and Wy meeting, do almost encompass the chief town of this County, which is thence denominated; for the Britains call it Mynwy, and we Monmouth. Monmouth. On the North-side, where it is not guarded with the rivers, it is fortify'd with a wall and a ditch. In the midst of the town, near the market-place, stands the castle, which (as we find in the King's Records) flourish'd in the time of William the Conquerour; but is thought to have been re-built by John Baron of Monmouth. From him it devolv'd to the House of Lancaster, when King Henry the third had depriv'd him of his Inheritance, for espousing so violently the Barons Interest against him: Or rather (as we read in the King's Prerogative) for that his heirs had pass'd their Allegiance to the Earl of Britain in France. Since that time this town has flourish'd considerably, enjoying many privileges granted them by the House of Lancaster. But for no one thing is it so eminent, as the birth of King Henry the fifth, that triumphant Conquerour of France, and second Ornament of the Lancastrian Family: who by direct force of arms subdu'd the Kingdom of France, and reduc'd their King, Charles the sixth, to that extremity, that he did little better than resign his Title. Upon whose prosperous. Success, John Seward a Poet in those times, and none of the lowest rank, bespeaks the English Nation in this lofty stile:
Monmouth also glories in the birth of Galfridus Arthurius, Bishop of St. Asaph, Geofrey of Monmouth, or Ap. Art [...]c. who compiled the British History; an Author well experienced in Antiquities,F [...]de [...] vid [...]t [...] non an [...] quá. but as it seems not of antique credit: so many ridiculous Fables of his own invention [c] hath he inserted in that work. In so much that he is now amongst those writers that are censur'd by the Church of Rome.
The river Wy (wherein they take Salmon plentifully from September to April) is continued from hence Southward with many windings and turnings. It's now the limit between Glocestershire and Monmouthshire; but was formerly the boundary betwixt the Welsh and English; according to that verse of Necham:
Near its fall into the Severn-Sea, it passes by Chepstow, C [...]e [...] t [...]. which is a Saxon name, and signifies a market or place of trading. In British 'tis call'd Kaswent or Castelh Gwent. 'Tis a town of good note, built on a hill close by the river; guarded with walls of a considerable circumference, which take in several Fields and Orchards. The castle is very fair, standing on the brink of a river: and on the opposite side there stood a Priory, whereof the better part being demolish'd, the remainder is converted to a Parish-church. The bridge here over the Wy is built upon piles, and is exceeding high; which was necessary, because the tide rises here to a great height. The Lords of this place were the Clares Earls of Pembroke; who from a neighbour castle call'd Strighul, where they liv'd, were entitled Earls of Strighul Ear [...]s [...]f Strig [...]l. and Pembroke: of whom Richard the last Earl, a man of invincible courage and strength (sirnam'd Strong-bow from his excellency in Archery,) was the first that made way for the English into Ireland. By his daughter it descended to the Bigots, &c. And now it belongs to the Earls of Worcester. This place seems of no great antiquity; for several do affirm, and that not without reason, that it had its rise not many ages past, from the ancient city Venta, Ve [...]ta which flourish'd about four miles hence in the time of Antoninus, who calls it Venta Silurum, as if it had been their chief city. Which name neither arms nor time have consum'd; for at this day 'tis call'd Kaer-went, Kaer-wen [...] or the city Venta. But the city it self is so much destroy'd by the one or the other, that it only appears to have been, from the ruinous walls, [Page 597-598] the checquer'd pavements, and the Roman coyns [d]. It took up about a mile in circumference: on the South-side is a considerable part of the wall yet remaining, and more than the ruins of three Bastions. What repute it had heretofore, we may from hence gather; that before the name of Monmouth was heard of, this whole Country was call'd from it Went-set or Went's-land [e]. Moreover (as we read in the life of Tathaius a British Saint) it was formerly an Academy,L [...]an [...]ff. or place dedicated to Literature, which the same Tathaius govern'd with commendation, and also founded a Church there, in the reign of King Kradok ap-Ynyr, who invited him hither from an Hermitage.
Five miles to the West of Kaer-went is seated Strighul-castle at the bottom of the hills; which now we call Strugle, but the Normans Estrig-hill, built (as we find in Domesday-book) by William Fitz-Osbern Earl of Hereford; and afterwards the seat of the Clares, Earls of Pembroke, whence they have been also commonly call'd Earls of Strighull.
Beneath these places upon the Severn-Sea, not far from the mouth of the river Wy, lies Port Skeweth, P [...]t Skew [...]h. call'd by Marianus Port-Skith, who informs us that Harald built a Fort there against the Welsh in the year 1065. which they immediately, under the conduct of Karadok, overthrew1.
Near Caldecot, C [...]decot. where the river Throgoy enters the Severn-Sea,Inq 3 E. 1. I observ'd the wall of a castle which formerly belong'd to the High-Constables of England, and was held by the service of Constableship of England.
Not far from hence are Wondy and Pen-how, W [...]dy and Pe [...]- [...]w. the seats formerly of the illustrious family of St. Maur, St Maur or Sei [...]r. now corruptly call'd Seimour. For we find that about the year 1240. (in order to wrest Wondy out of the hands of the Welsh) G. Marescal Earl of Pembroke was obliged to assist William of St. Maur. From whom was descended Roger of St. Maur Kt. who married one of the heiresses of the illustrious J. Beauchamp, the noble Baron of Hach; who was descended from Sibyl one of the co-heiresses of that most puissant William Marshal E. of Pembroke, and from William Ferrars Earl of Derby, Hugh de Vivon and William Mallet, men of eminent worth in their times. The Nobility of all which, as also of several others, have (as may be made evident) concentred in the Right Honourable Edward de St. Maur or Seimour, now Earl of Hereford, a singular encourager of virtue and learning; for which qualification he's deservedly famous.
The Fenny tract, extended below this for some miles, is call'd the Moor;The M [...]or. which at my present reviewing these notes,An Inundat [...] 16 [...]. Jan. has suffer'd a most lamentable devastation. For the Severn-Sea after a Spring-tide, being driven back by a Southwest-wind (which continued for 3 days without intermission) and then again repuls'd by a very forcible Sea-wind, it raged with such a tide, as to overflow all this lower tract, and also that of Somersetshire over against it; undermining several Houses, and overwhelming a considerable number of cattel and men.
In the borders of this Fenny tract, where the land rises, lies Gold-cliff; G [...]d-c [...]iff. so call'd (saith Giraldus) because the stones appear, when the Sun shines, of a bright gold colour. Nor can I be easily perswaded (saith he) that nature hath bestow'd this colour on the stones in vain; or that this is merely a flower without fruit; should some skilful Artist search the veins and bowels of this rock. In this place there remain some ruins of an old Priory, founded by one of the family of Chandois.
From hence we come through a Fenny Country to the mouth of the river Isca, [...]he river [...]. call'd by the Britains Wysk, in English Usk, and by others Osca. This river (as we have already observ'd) taking its course through the midst of the County, passes by three small cities of noted antiquity.
The first on the Northwest borders of the County, call'd by Antoninus Gobannium, G [...]bannium. is situate at the confluence of the rivers Wysk and Govenni; and thence denominated. It is at this day (retaining its ancient appellation) call'd Aber-Gavenni, and by contraction Aber-Gaenni; which signifies the Confluence of Gavenni or Gobannium. It is fortified with walls and a castle, which (as Giraldus observes) has been oftner stain'd with the infamy of treachery, than any other castle of Wales. First by William Son of Earl Miles, and afterwards by William Breos; both having upon publick assurance, and under pretence of friendship, invited thither some of the Welsh Nobility, and then basely murder'd them. But they escaped not God's just punishment; for Breos having been depriv'd of all his effects, his wife and son starv'd with hunger, died himself in exile. The other having his brains dash'd out with a stone, while Breulas-castle was on fire, suffer'd at length the due reward of his villany. The first Lord of Aber-Gavenni, Lords of Aber-Gavenni. that I know of, was one Hamelin Balun, who made Brien Wallingford, or Brient de L'Isle (call d also Fitz-Count) his Executor. And he having built here an Hospital for his two sons, who were Lepers, left the greatest part of his Inheritance to Walter the son of Miles, Earl of Hereford. This Walter was succeeded by his brother Henry, whom the Welsh slew, and invaded his Territories; which the King's Lieutenants defended, though not without great hazard. By Henry's sister it descended to the Breoses; and from them in right of marriage, by the Cantelows and Hastings to Reginald Lord Grey of Ruthin. 19 Rich. 2. But William Beauchamp obtain'd it of the Lord Grey, by conveyance: and he again in default of Issue male, entail'd it on his brother Thomas Earl of Warwick, and on his heirs-male. Richard son of William Beauchamp, Lord of Aber-gavenni, for his military valour created Earl of Worcester, being slain in the wars of France, left one only daughter, who was married to Edward Nevil. From henceforth the Nevils became eminent, under the title of Barons of Aber-Gavenni. But the castle was a long time detain'd from them, upon occasion of the conveyance before mention'd. The fourth of these dying, in our memory, left one only daughter Mary, married to Sir Thomas Fane; Claus. 19 & 21 Hen. 6. &c. between whom and Sir Edward Nevil the next heir-male (to whom the castle and most of the estate had been left by Will, which was also confirm'd by authority of Parliament) there was a trial for the title of Baron of Aber-Gavenni, before the House of Lords, in the second year of King James; which continued seven days. But in regard the question of right could not be fully adjusted; and that each of them seem'd to all (in respect of descent) very worthy of the title; and that moreover it was evident, that both the title of Baron of Aber-Gavenni, and that of Le Despenser, belong'd hereditarily to this family: the Peers requested of his Majesty, that both might be honour'd with the title of Baron; to which he agreed. It was then proposed to the Peers by the L. Chancellor, first, Whether the heirs-male or female should enjoy the title of Aber Gavenni; upon which the majority of voices gave it the heir-male. And when he had again proposed, Whether the title of Baron Le Despenser Baroness le Despenser. should be conferr'd on the female and her heirs, they unanimously agreed to it; to which his Majesty gave his Royal Assent. And Edward Nevil was soon after summon'd to Parliament by the King's Writ, under the title of Baron of Aber-Gavenni. And being according to the [Page 599-600] usual ceremony, introduc'd in his Parliament-Robe between two Barons; he was placed above the Baron de Audeley. At the same time also, the King's Patent was read before the Peers, whereby his Majesty restored, rais'd, preferred, &c. Mary Fane, to the state, degree, title, stile, name, honour, and dignity, of Baroness le Despenser; Baroness le Despenser. and that her heirs successively should be Barens le Despenser, &c. But the question of precedency being proposed, the Peers referr'd the decision thereof to the Commissioners for the office of Earl Marshal of England, who sign [...]d their Verdict for the Barony of le Despenser. This was read before the Peers, and by their order register'd in the Parliament Diary; out of which I have taken this account in short. What ought not to be omitted, is that John Hastings held this Castle by homage, ward, and marriage. 6 Edw. 2. When it happens (as we read in the Inquisition) and if there should chance any war between the King of England and Prince of Wales; he ought to defend the Country of Over-went at his own charges, to the utmost of his power for the good of himself, the King, and Kingdom.
The second town, call'd by Antoninus Burrium, Burrium. (who places it 12 miles from Gobannium,) is seated where the river Byrdhin falls into Usk. 'Tis call'd now in British, by a transposition of letters Brynbiga for Burenbegi, and also Kaer-ŵysk, by Giraldus Castrum Oskae, and in English Usk. Usk. It shews now only the ruins of a large strong Castle, pleasantly seated between the river Usk, and Oilwy a small brook, which takes its course from the east, by Ragland, a stately castle-like house of the Earl of Worcester's, and passes under it.
The third City, call'd by Antoninus Isca Isca. and Legio secunda, (seated on the other side of the river Usk, and distant, as he observes, exactly 12 Italian miles from Burrium) is c [...]ll'd by the Britains Kaer Lheion and Kaer Lheion ar ŵysk Kaer Lheion ar Wysk. (which signifies the City of the Legion on the river Usk) from the Legio Secunda Augusta, called also Britannica secunda. This Legion, instituted by Augustus, and translated out of Germany into Britain by Claudius, under the conduct of Vespasian, (to whom, upon his aspiring to the Empire, it prov'd serviceable, and also secur'd him the British Legions,) was placed here at length by Julius Frontinus (as seems probable) in garrison against the Silures. How great a City this Isca was at that time, our Giraldus informs us, in his Itinerary of Wales. A very ancient city this was (saith he) and enjoy'd honourable privileges; elegantly built by the Romans with The c [...] cuit [...]f [...] walls a [...] 3 miles. Enderoy. brick walls. There are yet remaining many footsteps of its ancient splendour: stately palaces which formerly with their gilded Tiles emulated the Roman grandeur, for that it was at first built by the Roman nobility, and adorn'd with sumptuous edifices: an exceeding high tower, remarkable hot An. 16 [...] hot ba [...]s were d [...] ver'd [...] S. Jul [...]a [...], the br [...] equilate [...] ly squ [...] about [...] inch t [...] like th [...] at S. A [...] Mr. A [...] baths, ruins of ancient temples, theatrical places, encompass'd with stately walls, which are partly yet standing. Subterraneous edifices are frequently met with, not only within the walls, but also in the suburbs, aqueducts, vaults, and (which is well worth our observation) Hypocausts or stoves, contriv'd with admirable artifice, conveying heat insensibly through some very narrow vents on the sides. Two very eminent, and (next to St. Alban and Amphibalus) the chief Protomartyrs of Britannia major, lye entombed here, where they were crown'd with martyrdom; viz. Julius and Aaron; who had also Churches dedicated to them in this City. For in ancient times there were three noble Churches here. One of Julius the Martyr, grac'd with a Quire of Nuns devoted to God's service; another dedicated to St. Aaron his companion, ennobled with an excellent order of Canons; and the third honour'd with the Metropolitan See of Wales. Amphibalus also, teacher of St. Alban, who sincerely instructed him in the Faith, was born here. This City is excellently well seated on the navigable river Usk; and beautified with meadows and woods. Here the Roman Embassadors received their audience at the illustrious court of that great King Arthur. And here also the Archbishop Dubricius resign'd that honour to David of Menevia, by translating the Archiepiscopal See from this City thither.
Thus far Giraldus. But in confirmation of the antiquity of this place, I have taken care to add some ancient Inscriptions lately dug up there; and communicated to me by the right reverend Father in God Francis Godwin, Lord Bishop of Landaff, a lover of venerable antiquity, and all other good literature. In the year 1602. some labourers digging in a meadow adjoyning, found on a checquer'd pavement, a statue of a person in a short-truss'd habit, with a Quiver and Arrows; the head, hands, and feet, broken off: and also the fragment of an Altar with this Inscription of fair large characters about three inches long: erected by Haterianus Lieutenant-General of Augustus, and Propraetor of the Province of Cilicia.
These Inscriptions are in the wall of the Garden at Moinscourt, [formerly] the house of the Bishop of Lan [...]aff.
LEG AVG PR PR
PROVINC CILIC’
The next year was discover'd also this Inscription, which shews the Statue before mention'd to have been of the Goddess Diana; and that Titus Flavius Posthumius Varus, perhaps of the fifth Cohort of the second Legion, had repair'd her Temple.
Also this votive Altar, out of which the name of the Emperour * Geta seems to have been rased when he was deposed by his brother Antoninus Bassianus, [...]e Phil. [...]ns. [...] 1 [...]5. and declared an enemy; yet so as there are some shadows of the Letters still remaining.
AVGG. N. N.
SEVERI ET ANTONINI ET GETAE CAES.
P. SALTIENVS P. F. MAECIA THALAMVS HADRI.
PRAEF. LEG. II. AVG.
C. VAMPEIANO ET
LVCILIAN.
And this fragment of a very fair Altar; the Inscription whereof might perhaps be thus supplied.
M AURELIO
ANTONINO
AVC
SEVER. LVCII.
FILIO
LEC. IIV VG.P
sic’
Together with these two fragments.
Here also, about the time of the Saxon Conquest, was an Academy of 200 Philosophers, who being skill'd in Astronomy and other Sciences, observ'd accurately the courses of the Stars, as we are informed by Alexander Elsebiensis, a very scarce Author; out of whom much has been transcrib'd for my use by the learned Thomas James Tho. James. of Oxford, who may deservedly be stiled [...], as one that is wholly intent upon Books and Learning; and is at present (God prosper his endeavours) out of a desire of promoting the publick good, busily employ'd in searching the Libraries of England, on a design that is like to be of singular use to the Commonwealth of Learning.
In the time of K. Henry 2. when Giraldus writ, this City seems to have been a place of considerable strength. For we find, that Yrwith of Kaer Lheion, a courageous Britain, defended it a long time against the English forces; till at last being over-power'd by the King, he was dispossest of it. But now (a fair instance that Cities as well as Men have their vicissitude and fortune) that is become an inconsiderable small town, which once was of so great extent on each side the river, that they affirm St. Gilian's (the house of the honourable Sir William Herbert, a person no less eminent for wit and judgment, than noble extraction) to have been in the city: and in that place the Church of Julius the Martyr is said to have stood; which is now about a mile out of the town.
From the ruins also of this City, Newport Newport. had its beginning, seated a little lower, at the fall of the river Usk. By Giraldus 'tis call'd Novus Burgus. It is a town of later foundation, and of considerable note for a Castle and a convenient harbour: where there was formerly some Military-way, mention'd by Necham in these verses:
That this Julia Strata was a way, we have no reason to question: and if we may be free to conjecture, it seems not absurd to suppose it took its name from Julius Frontinus who conquer'd the Silures. Not far from this Newburgh (saith Giraldus) there glides a small stream call'd Nant Pènkarn, passable but at some certain fords, not so much for the depth of its water, as the hollowness of the chanel, and deepness of the mud. It had formerly a ford call'd Rhŷd Penkarn, now of a long time discontinued. Henry 2. King of England having by chance pass'd this ford; the Welsh (who rely too much upon old prophecies) were presently discouraged; because their Oracle Merlinus Sylvester had foretold, [Page 603-604] that whenever a strong Prince, with a freckled face (such as King Henry was) should pass that Ford, the British Forces should be vanquish'd.
During the Saxon Heptarchy, this County was subject to the Mountain-Welsh, call'd by them Dunsettan;Dun set. who were yet under the government of the West-Saxons, as appears by the ancient Laws. At the first coming in of the Normans, the Lords Marchers grievously plagued and annoy'd them: especially the above-mention'd Hamelin Balun, Hugh Lacy, Walter and Gilbert de Clare 1 and Brien of Wallingford. To whom the Kings having granted all they could acquire in these parts, some of them reduced by degrees the upper part of this County, which they call'd Over-Went, and others the low lands, call'd Nether-Went.
Parishes in this County, 127.
ADDITIONS to MONMOƲTHSHIRE.
[a] MYnydh Kader (mention'd by our Author) is the name of many Mountains in Wales thus denominated: as Kader Arthur, Kader Verwin, Kader Idris, Kader Dhinmael, Kader yr Ychen, &c. which the learned Dr. Davies supposes to have been so call'd, not from their resemblance to a Kàdair or Chair; but because they have been either fortified places, or were look'd upon as naturally impregnable, by such as first impos'd those names on them. For the British Kader (as well as the Irish word Kathair) signifying anciently a Fort or Bulwark; whence probably the modern word Kaer of the same signification, might be corrupted.
[b] Lhan Lhan. properly signifies a Yard, or some small Inclosure; as may be observ'd in compound words. For we find a Vineyard call'd Gwin-lhan; an Orchard, Per-lhan; a Hay-yard, Yd-lhan; a Church-yard, Korph-lhan; a Sheep-fold, Kor-lhan; &c. However (as Giraldus observes) it denotes separately, a Church or Chapel; and is of common use, in that sense, throughout all Wales: probably because such Yards or Inclosures might be places of Worship in the time of Heathenism, or upon the first planting of Christianity, when Churches were scarce.
[c] That this Jeffrey of Monmouth (as well as most other Writers of the Monkish times) abounds with Fables, is not deny'd by such as contend for some authority to that History: but that those Fables were of his own Invention, seems too severe a censure of our Author's, and scarce a just accusation: since we find most or all of them, in that British History he translated; whereof an ancient copy may be seen in the Library of Jesus-College at Oxford, which concludes to this effect: Walter Arch-Deacon of Oxford composed this Book in Latin, out of British Records; which he afterwards thus render'd into modern British. We find also many of the same Fables in Ninnius, who writ his Eulogium Britanniae about three hundred years before this Galfridus Arturius compos'd the British History. As to the regard due to that History in general, the judicious Reader may consult Dr. Powel's Epistle De Britannica Historia rectè intelligenda; and Dr. Davies's Preface to his British Lexicon; and ballance them with the arguments and authority of those that wholly reject them.
Near Monmouth stands a noble House built by his Grace Henry Duke of Beaufort call'd Troy; the residence of his eldest son Charles Marquiss of Worcester, who is owner of it, and of the Castle and Manour of Monmouth, settled upon him with other large possessions in this County, by the Duke his father.
[d] As a confirmation of what our Author observes, in the year 1689. there were three checquer'd Pavements discover'd here in the Garden of one Francis Ridley; which being in frosty weather exposed to the open air, upon the thaw the cement was dissolv'd, and this valuable antiquity utterly defac'd. So that at present there remains nothing for the entertainment of the Curious, but the small cubical stones whereof it was compos'd; which are of various sizes and colours, and ma [...] be found confusedly scatter'd in the earth, at the depth of half a yard. Checquer'd Pavements consist of oblong cubical stones, commonly about half an inch in length; whereof some are natural stones, wrought into that form; and others artificial, made like brick. These are of several colours; as white, black, blue, green, red, and yellow; and are close pitch'd together in a floor of fine plaister, and so dispos'd by the Artist, with respect to colour, as to exhibit any figures of men, beasts, birds, trees, &c. In one of these Pavements, as the owner relates, were delineated several flowers, which he compared to Roses, Tulips, and Flowers de Luce; and at each of the four corners, a Crown, and a Peacock holding a Snake in his Bill, and treading it under one foot. Another had the figure of a Man in armour from the breast upward. There were also Imperial Heads, and some other variety of Figures, which had they been preserv'd, might have been instructive, as well as diverting to the Curious in the study of Antiquities. In their Gardens, and elsewhere in this Village, they frequently meet with brass Coyns; which an ingenious and worthy Gentleman of that neighbourhood has for some years collected. In his Collection I observ'd an adulterated Coyn of Antoninus Pius, which seem'd to have been counterfeited not of late, but anciently, when that Emperour's Coyns were current money. 'Tis a brass piece, of the bigness of a denarius, cover'd with a very thin leaf of silver, which when rub'd off, the letters disappear. Also Julia Maesia of embas'd metal, not unlike our tin farthings. Others were of Valerianus, Gallienus, Probus, Dioclesianus, Constantius Chlorus, Constantinus Magnus, Julius Crispus, Constans, and both Valentinians. This present year (1693.) one Charles Keinton shew'd me part of a Roman brick-pavement in his Yard: the bricks were somewhat above a foot long, nine inches broad, and an inch and a half thick; all marked thus:
[e] The English names of Went-set Wentse [...]. &c. and Wents land have their origin from the British word Gwent; whereby almost all this Country, and part of Glocestershire and Herefordshire were call'd; till Wales was divided into Counties. But it seems questionable, whether that name Gwent be owing to the City Venta; or whether the Romans might not call this City Venta Silurum, as well as that of the Iceni, and that other of the Belgae, from the more ancient British names of part of their Countries. Had the Country been denominated since the Roman Conquest, from the chief City, it had been more properly call'd Gwlâd Gaer-Lheion, than Gwlâd Gwent. But of this enough, if not too much.
[f] In the year 1654. some workmen discover'd at St. Julian's near Kaer-Lheion, a Roman Altar, the Inscription whereof was soon after copy'd by the learned and ingenious John Aubrey Esq a true lover and promoter of real knowledge, and a person of equal industry and curiosity. The Altar, he says, was of Free-stone, four foot in length, and three in breadth: the Inscription he is pleas'd to communicace out of his excellent Collection of British Monuments, to be publish'd on this occasion.
[...] AEMILIANVS
CALPVRNIVS
RVFILIANVS [...]
AVGVSTORVM
MONITV’
JOVI Optimo Maximo DOLICHeno, JunOM Optum [...]. AEM [...]LIANVS CALPVRNIVS RVFILIANVS fECit [an potius LEGionis II. AVGVSTORVM MONITV.
It seems worth the enquiry of the curious, upon what occasion Jupiter is here stiled Dolichenus; for that I take to be the meaning of this word Dolichv. To me it seems somewhat probable, that this Altar was erected to implore his Tuition of some Iron Mines, either in the Forest of Dean, or some other place of this Country. The grounds of which conjecture I take from this Inscription in Reinesius: [...]n S [...]n [...] [...] l [...] [...] m [...] Xv. Jovi optimo maximo Dolycheno, ubi ferrum nascitur, C Sempronius Rectus, cent. Frumentarius D.D. For unles [...] C [...]aius Sempronius, who dedicates this Altar Jovi Dolicheno, makes his request to Jupiter that he would either direct them to find out Iron Mines, or be propitious to some they had already discover'd, I cannot conjecture why he should add the words ubi Ferrum nascitur; which were not only superfluous, bu [...] absurd, if they imply'd no more than barely that Iron-ore was found at Doliche, a Town of Macedonia whence Jupiter was call'd Dolichenus. Augustorum monitu is a Phrase we find parallel instances of in Reinesius, p. 42. where he tells us, Ex monitu Dei, Imperio Deorum Dearúmque, ex jussu numinis, quicquid facerent, facere videri volebant Pagani.
At Tre-Dynoq-ChurchInscription at Tredonok. about three miles distant from Kaer-leion, is preserv'd this fair and entire Monument of a Roman Souldier of the Second Legion. The Stone is a kind of blue slate: the four oblique lines are so many Grooves or Canaliculi; and the small squares without the lines are holes bor'd through the stone; whereby it was fasten'd with Iron pins to the Ground-wall of the Church on the outside; and discover'd by the Sexton about twenty years since, at the digging of a Grave. Considering that this was the Monument of a Heathen, and must be about fourteen or fifteen hundred years standing; it seems strange it should be reposited in this place, and thus fasten'd to the Foundation of the Church: unless we suppose it laid there by some pious Christian in [...]fter ages, or rather that the Chu [...]ch was built on some old Roman burial-place. But however that happen'd, that it was there found is most certain, and testified by a worthy Gentleman of the neighbourhood yet living, who was present at the discovery of it, and took care to preserve it.
MIL LEG II AVG STIP
XVIII ANNOR XL
HIC SITVS EST
CVR [...]AGENTE
AMANDA
CONIVGE’
Diis Manibus. JVLius JVLIANVS MILes LEGIonis I.dae. AVGustae, STIPendiorum octodecim, ANNORum quadraginta, HIC SITVS EST: CVRA AGENTE AMANDA CONJVGE. Rein. Inscr. p. 543.— Cura agentibus, Semp. Pudente, Mil. frum. & Cutio Eupla. Ministro Sp c.
At Kaer Leion they frequently dig up Roman Bricks with this Inscription.
The Letters on these Bricks are not inscrib'd (as on stone) but stamp'd with some instrument; there being a square cavity or impression in the midst of the Brick, at the bottom whereof the Letters are rais'd, and not insculp'd. One of these Bricks may be seen (together with Mr. Camden's Inscriptions) in the Garden-wall at Moinscourt, the seat of the worshipful Thomas Lyster Esq and some others at Kaer Leion.
In the year 1692. a chequer'd pavement was discover'd in the grounds of the honoured Henry Tomkins of Kaer Leion Esq the present High Sheriff of this County. 'Twas found by workmen a plowing, in a field close adjoyning to his house. And here we may observe, that these ancient pavements are not buried so deep in this County, as that in the Church-yard at Woodchester in Glocestershire. For whereas that lies at about 3 foot depth, this at Kaer Leion (as also some others formerly discover'd,) lay no deeper than the plow-share; and that abovementioned at Kaer-went not much lower. Mr. Tomkins has taken all possible care, to preserve what the servants had not spoil'd of this valuable antiquity; by removing a considerable part of the floor in the same order it was found, into his garden; and was pleas'd to communicate a draught of the whole to beSee at the end of Wales. publish'd upon this occasion. The diameter of it is about 14 foot. All the arches, and that part of the border they touch, were composed of white, red, and blue stones, varyed alternately. The bills, eyes, and feet of the birds were red, and they had also a red ring about the neck; and in their wings, one or two of the longest feathers red, and another blue. The inside of the cups were also red; and elsewhere, whatever we have not excepted of this whole area, is variegated of umber or dark colour'd stones and white.
About forty years since, some Labourers digging in a Quarry betwixt Kaer Leion Bridge and Christ-church (near a place call'd Porth Sini Krân) discover'd a large coffin of free-stone; which being open'd, they found therein a leaden sheet, wrap'd about an iron frame, curiously wrought; and in that frame a skeleton. Near the coffin they found also a gilded Alabaster statue of a person in a coat of mail; holding in the right-hand a short sword, and in the left a pair of scales. In the right scale appear'd a young maiden's head and breasts; and in the left (which was out-weigh'd by the former) a globe. This account of the coffin and statue I receiv'd from the worshipful Captain Matthias Bird, who saw both himself; and for the farther satisfaction of the curious, was pleas'd lately to present the statue to the Ashmolean Repository at Oxford. The feet and right-arm have been broken some years since, as also the scales; but in all other respects, it's tolerably well preserv'd; and some of the gilding still remains in the interstices of the armour. We have given a figure of it, amongst some other curiosities relating to Antiquity, at the end of these Counties of Wales: but must leave the explication to some more experienc'd and judicious Antiquary; for though at first view it might seem to be the Goddess Astraea, yet I cannot satisfie my self as to the device of the Globe and Woman in the scales; and am unwilling to trouble the Reader with too many conjectures.
Amongst other Roman Antiquities frequently dug up here, we may take notice of some curious earthen Vessels; whereof some are plain, and the same with those red Patellae or earthen Plates often discover'd in several parts of England; but others adorn'd with elegant figures; which were they preserv'd, might be made use of for the illustration of Roman Authors, as well as their Coyns, Statues, Altars, &c. That whereof I have given a figure, represents to us, first, as an emblem of Piety, the celebrated history of the woman at Rome, who being deny'd the liberty of relieving her father in prison with any food, yet obtaining free access to him, fed him with the milk of her own breasts. I am sensible that in Pliny Hist. Nat. l. 7. c. 36. and most printed copies of such Authors as mention this history, we are inform'd she exercis'd this piety to her mother: but this figure (though it be somewhat obscure) seems to represent a bearded man: however, whether I mistake the figure, or whether we may read with Festus, Patre (not matre) carcere incluso; or rather suppose the tradition erroneous (in some provinces at least) amongst the vulgar Romans; that the same history was hereby intended, is sufficiently evident. In the second place we find an Auspex or Soothsayer looking upwards to observe the motion of a bird; or rather perhaps a Cupid (according to the Potter's fancy) performing the office of a Soothsayer. And in the third, a woman sacrificing with Vervain and Frankincense: for I am satisfied, that the plant on the altar is no other than Vervein; and that the Woman reaching her hand towards the Altar, is casting Frankincense on the Vervein, seems very probable; for we find that Women, a little before their time of lying in, sacrificed to Lucina with Vervein and Frankincense. Thus the Harlot Phronesium in Plautus, (Trucul. Act 2. Scen. 5.) pretending she was to lye in, bid [...] her maids provide her Sweet-meats, Oyl of Cinnamon, Myrrhe, and Vervein.
We may also collect out of VirgilE [...] l. ver. 6., that women sacrific'd with Vervein and Frankincense upon other occasions.
As for the naked person on the other side the Altar, I shall not pretend to determine whether it be her husband, or who else is intended thereby. In regard we find the other figures repeated alternately; I suppose there were no other delineations on the whole vessel, than what this piece included within the crack (which is all I have of it) represents. By the figures on this vessel we might conjecture it was a bowl used in those Feasts they call'd Matronalia, observ'd on the Kalends of March; when the married women sacrificed to Juno, for their happy delivery in childbirths, the preservation of their husbands, and the continuance of their mutual affections. And from its form, I should guess it was that sort of vessel they call'd Phiala: because in Welsh the only name we have for such vessels is Phîol; which is doubtless of the same origin with the Greek and Latin Phiala, and is very probably one of those many words left amongst us by the Romans, which we may presume to be still preserv'd in the sense they us'd them.
I shall only mention two other curiosities found here, and detain the Reader no longer in this County: the first is, a Ram's horn of brass, much of the bigness and form of a lesser Ram's horn; broken off at the root, as if it had been formerly united to a brass head. One of these heads and horns (though somewhat different from ours) may be seen in Lodovico Moscardo's Musaeum, pag. 83. who supposes such heads of Rams and Oxen to have serv'd at once both as ornaments in their Temples, and also religious types of sacrifice.
The other is a very elegant and an entire Fibula vestiaria, whereof (because it would be difficult to give an intelligible description of it)See at t [...] end of Wa [...]. I have given 2 figures, one being not sufficient to express it. It is of brass, and is curiously chequer'd on the back part, with enamel of red and blue. It should seem that when they used it, the ring at the upper end was drawn down over the acus or pin; and that a thread or small string tied through the ring, and about the notches at bottom, secured the Acus in its proper place. Such a Fibula in all respects, but that it is somewhat less, was found An▪ 1691. near King's Cotte [Page 609-610] in Glocestershire; where they also frequently meet with Roman brass coyns, which they call Chesle-money, a name probably of the same signification with Castle or Chester-money. They that would be farther satisfied of the various forms and matter of these Roman Fibulae, and the several uses they were applied to, may consult amongst other Authors, the learned and ingenious Joannes Rhodius de Acia, and Smetius's Antiquitates Neomagenses.
In the first of Charles 1. Robert Lord Carey was created Earl of Monmouth, Earls and Duke of Monmouth. and was succeeded by Henry of the same name. An. 15 Car. 2. James Fitz-Roy, among other honours, was created Duke of Monmouth; and at present the right honourable Charles Mordant takes the title of Earl from this place.
GLAMORGANSHIRE.
THE farthest County of the Silures seems to be that we call Glamorganshire; G [...]gan [...]. the Britains Morgànwg, Gwlâd Morgan, and Gwlâd Vorgànwg, which signifies the County of Morganwg; and was so call'd (as most imagine) from Morgan a Prince; or (as others suppose) from an Abbey of that name. But if I should deduce it from the British Môr, which signifies the Sea, I know not for certain whether I should deviate from the Truth. However, I have observed that Maritime town of Armorica, we call now Morlais, to have been call'd by Ptolemy and the anciant Gauls Vorganium, or Morganium (for the letters M and V are often counterchanged in this language:) and whence shall we suppose it thus denominated but from the Sea? And this our Morgànwg is also altogether Maritime; being a long narrow Country, wholly washed on the South-side by the Severn Sea. As for the inner part of it, it is border'd on the East with Monmouthshire, on the North with Brecknock, and on the West with Kaermardhinshire.
On the North it is very rugged with Mountains, which inclining towards the South, become by degrees more tillable; at the roots whereof we have a spacious Vale or Plain open to the South-Sun; a situation which Cato preferr'd to all others, and for which Pliny does so much commend Italy. For this part of the Country is exceeding pleasant, both in regard of the fertility of the Soil, and the number of towns and villages.
[...] [...]n [...]ct t [...] [...] [...]te.In the reign of William Rufus, Jestin ap Gwrgant Lord of this Country, having revolted from his natural Prince Rhys ap Tewdwr and being too weak to maintain his Rebellion, very unadvisedly, which he too late repented, call'd to his assistance (by mediation of Enion ap Kadîvor a Nobleman, who had married his daughter) Robert Fitz-Haimon [...]. a Norman, son of Haimon Dentatus Earl of Corboil. Who forthwith levied an Army of choice Souldiers, and taking to his assistance twelve Knights as Adventurers in this Enterprize, [...] E [...]g [...]t. first gave Rhŷs battel, and slew him; and afterwards being allur'd with the fertility of the Country, which he had before conceiv'd sure hopes to be Lord of, turning his Forces against Jestin himself, for that he had not kept his Articles with Enion, he soon deprived him of the Inheritance of his Ancestors, and divided the Country amongst his Partners. The barren Mountains he granted to Enion; but the fertile Plains he divided amongst these twelve Associates, (whom he had called Peers) and himself; on that condition, that they should hold their Land in Fee and Vassalage of him as their chief Lord, to assist each other in common; and that each of them should defend his station in his Castle of Caèrdiffe, e [...]d ffe. and attend him in his Court at the administration of Justice. It may not perhaps be foreign to our purpose, if we add their names out of a Book written on this subject, either by Sir Edward Stradling, or Sir Edward Maunsel (for 'tis ascribed to both of them) both being very well skill'd in Genealogy and Antiquities.
- William of London, or de Londres.
- Richard Granvil.
- Pain Turbervil.
- Oliver St. John.
- Robert de St. Quintin.
- Roger Bekeroul.
- William Easterling, (so call'd, for that he was descended from Germany) whose Posterity were call'd Stradlings.
- Gilbert Humfranvil.
- Richard Siward.
- John Flemming.
- Peter Soore.
- Reginald Sully.
The river Rhymny gliding from the Mountains, makes the Eastern limit of this County, whereby it is divided from Monmouthshire; and in the British,Rhanna. Remny signifies to divide. In a Moorish bottom, not far from this river, where it runs through places scarce passable among the hills, are seen the ruinous walls of Caer-phily-castle,Caerphily-castle. which has been of that vast magnitude, and such an admirable structure, that most affirm it to have been a Roman Garrison; nor shall I deny it, tho' I cannot yet discover by what name they call'd it. However, it should seem to have been re-edified, in regard it has a Chapel built after the Christian manner, as I was inform'd by the learned and judicious Mr. J. Sanford, who took an accurate survey of it. It was once the possession of the Clares Earls of Glocester; but we find no mention of it in our Annals, till the reign of Edward the second. For at that time the Spensers having by underhand practices set the King and Queen and the Barons at difference, we read that Hugolin Spenser was a long time besieged in this Castle, but without success [a]. Upon this river also (but the place is uncertain) Ninnius informs us that Faustus a pious godly son of Vortigern a most wicked father, erected a stately Edifice. Where, with other devout men, he daily pray'd unto God, that he would not punish him for the sins of his father, who committing most abominable Incest, had begotten him on his own daughter; and that his father might at last seriously repent, and the Country be freed from the Saxon war.
A little lower, Ptolemy places the mouth of Rhatostabius, The mouth of Rhatostabius. or Rhatostibius, a maim'd word, for the British Traeth Tâv, which signifies the sandy Frith of the river Taf. For there the river Taf gliding from the Mountains falls into the Sea at Lan-daf, Landaffe. that is, the Church on the river Taf, a small place seated in a bottom, but dignified with a Bishop's See (in the Diocese whereof are 154 Parishes) and adorn'd with a Cathedral consecrated to St. Teiliau Bishop thereof.Hist. Landavensis. Which Church was then erected by the two Gallick Bishops Germanus and Lupus, when they had suppress'd the Pelagian Heresie that prevail'd so much in Britain: and Dubricius a most devout man they first preferr'd to the Bishoprick, to whom Meurick a British Prince granted all the Lands between Taf and Eli. From hence Taf continues its course to Caerdiffe, Caerdiffe. in British Kaer Dŷdh C [...]rruptly I suppose for Caer Dŷv., a neat Town considering the Country, and a commodius Haven; fortified with Walls and a Castle by the Conquerour Fitz Haimon, who made it both the Seat of War, and a Court of Justice. Where, besides a standing Army of choice Souldiers, the twelve Knights or Peers were obliged each of them to defend their several stations. Notwithstanding which, a few years after, one Ivor Bâch, a Britain who dwelt in the Mountains, a man of small stature, but of resolute courage, marched hither with a band of Souldiers privately by night, and seiz'd the Castle, [Page 611-612] carrying away William Earl of Glocester, Fitz-Haimon's grandson by the daughter, together with his wife and son, whom he detain d prisoners till he had receiv'd satisfaction for all injuries. But how Robert Curthose, Rob. Curth [...]se D of Norm [...]ndy. eldest son of William the Conquerour (a man in Martial Prowess, but too adventurous and fool-hardy) was dep [...]ived by his younger brothers of all hopes of succession to the Crown; and bereft of both his eyes, lived in this Castle till he became an old man; may be seen in our English Historians. Whereby we may also learn, That to be born of the Blood-royal, does not ensure us of either Liberty or Safety.
Scarce three miles from the mouth of the river Taf, in the very winding of the shore, there are two small, but very pleasant Islands, divided from each other, and also from the main Land, by a narrow Frith. The hithermost is call'd Sully, Sully so call'd perhaps from the Silures. from a town opposite to it; to which Robert de Sully (whose share it was in the Division) is thought to have given name; tho' we might as well suppose he took his name from it. The farthermost is call'd Barry, from St. Baruch who lyes buried there; who as he gave name to the place, so the place afterwards gave sirname to its Proprietors. For that noble family of Viscount Barry in Ireland, is thence denominated. In a maritim Rock of this Island, saith Giraldus, there is a narrow chink or chest, A remarkable Cave. to which if you put your ear, you shall perceive such a noise as if Smiths were at work there. For sometimes you hear the blowing of the bellows, at other times the stroaks of the hammers; also the grinding of tools, the hissing noise of steel-gads, of fire burning in furnaces, &c. These sounds I should suppose might be occasion'd by the repercussion of the Sea-waters into these chinks, but that they are continued at low ebb when there's no water at all, as well as at the full tide [b]. Nor was that place unlike to this which Clemens Alexandrinus mentions in the seventh Book of his Stromata. Historians inform us, that in the Isle of Britain there is a certain Cave at the root of a Mountain, and at the top of it a cleft. Now when the wind blows into the Cave, and is reverberated therein, they hear at the chink the sound of several Cymbals; for the wind being driven back makes much the greater noise.
Beyond these Islands the shore is continued directly westward, receiving only one river; upon which (a little more within the land) lyes Cowbridge, Cowbridge. call'd by the Britains, from the Stone-bridge, y Bont vaen; a market-town, and the second of those three which the Conquerour Fitz-Haimon reserv'd for himself. In regard Antoninus places the City Bovium (which is also corruptly call'd Bomium) in this tract, and at this distance from Isca, I flatter'd my self once with the conjecture that this must be Bovium. Bovium. But seeing that at three miles distance from this town we find Boverton, which agrees exactly with Bovium, I could not without an injury to truth, seek for Bovium elsewhere. Nor is it a new thing, that places should receive their names from Oxen, as we find by the Thracian Bosphorus; the Bovianum of the Samnites; and Bauli in Italy, so call'd quasi Boalia, if we may credit Symachus. But let this one argument serve for all: Fifteen miles from Bovium, Antoninus using also a Latin name hath placed Nidum, which tho' our Antiquaries have a long time search'd for in vain, yet at the same distance we find Neath Neath. [in British Nêdh] a town of considerable note, retaining still its ancient name almost entire.From Sir J. Stradling. Moreover, we may observe here, at Lantwit or St. Iltut's, a village adjoyning, the foundations of many buildings; and formerly it had several streets [c]. Not far from this Boverton, almost in the very creek or winding of the shore, stands St. Donat's-castle,St. Donat's Castle. the habitation of the ancient and noble family of the Stradlings; near which there were dug up lately several ancient Roman coyns,Roman Coyns. but especially of the 30 Tyrants, and some of Aemilianus and Marius, which are very scarce. A little above this the river Ogmor Ogmor River. falls into the Sea, which glides from the Mountains by Koetieu-castle, the seat formerly of the Turbervils, afterwards of the Gamages, and now (in right of his Lady) of Sir Robert Sidney Viscount L'Isle; and also by Ogmor-castle, which devolv'd from the family of the Londons to the Dutchy of Lancaster.
‘There is a remarkable Spring within a few miles of this place (as the learned Sir John Stradling told me by Letter) at a place call'd Newton, Sa [...]di [...] We [...] A F [...] ebb [...] [...] now [...] [...] the [...]. a small village on the west side of the river Ogmor, in a sandy plain about a hundred paces from the Severn shore. The water of it is not the clearest, but pure enough and fit for use: it never runs over; insomuch, that such as would make use of it must go down some steps. At full Sea, in summer time, you can scarce take up any water in a dish; but immediately when it ebbs, you may raise what quantity you please. The same inconstancy remains also in the winter; but is not so apparent by reason of the adventitious water, as well from frequent showers as subterraneous passages. This, several of the Inhabitants, who were persons of credit, had assured me of. However being somewhat suspicious of common report, as finding it often erroneous, I lately made one or two journeys to this sacred Spring, for I had then some thoughts of communicating this to you. Being come thither, and staying about the third part of an hour (whilst the Severn flow'd, and none came to take up water) I observ'd that it sunk about three inches. Having left it, and returning not long after, I found the water risen above a foot. The diameter of the Well may be about six foot. Concerning which my Muse dictates these few lines:’
Polybius takes notice of such a Fountain at Cadiz,An e [...] and i [...]aing f [...] at Ca [...]. and gives us this reason for it; viz. That the Air being depriv'd of its usual vent, returns inwards; by which means the veins of the Spring being stopt, the water is kept back: and so on the other hand, the water leaving the shore, those Veins or natural Aqueducts are freed from all obstruction, so that the water springs plentifully.
From hence coasting along the shore, you come to Kynfyg, the Castle heretofore of Fitz-Haimon; and Margan M [...]g [...]n. once a Monastery, founded by William Earl of Glocester, and now the Seat of the noble family of the Maunsels, Knights. Not far from Margan, on the top of a Hill call'd Mynydd Margan, there is a Pillar of exceeding hard stone, erected for a Sepulchral Monument, of about four foot in height, and one in breadth; with an Inscription, which whoever happens to read, the ignorant common people of that neighbourhood promise he shall dye soon after. Let the Reader therefore take heed what he does; for if he reads it, he shall certainly dye.
[...]drocus [...] jacit, fi [...]e Catoris, [...] prone [...]s, Eter [...] ye do [...]u [...] i.e. [...]ernali [...] domo.
The last words I read, Aeternali in domo; for in that age Sepulchres were call'd Aeternales domus [d]. Betwixt Margan and Kynfyg also, by the way side, lyes a stone about four foot long, with this Inscription:
Which the Welsh (as the Right Reverend the Bishop of Landaff, who sent me this Copy of it, informs me) by adding and changing some letters, do thus read and interpret PVMP. BVS CAR A'N TOPIVS. i.e. The five fingers of our friend or kinsman kill'd us. They suppose it to have been the Grave of Prince Morgan, from whom the Country receiv'd its name, who they say was kill'd eight hundred years before the birth of our Saviour; but Antiquaries know, these Letters are of much later date [e].
From Margan the shore leads North-eastward, by Aber-Avon, a small market town, at the mouth of the river Avon (whence it takes its name) to Neath, a river infamous for its Quick-sands; upon which stands an ancient town of the same name, in Antonine's Itinerary call'd Nidum. [...]dum. Which, when Fitz-Haimon subdued this Country, fell in the division to Richard Granvil; who having built there a Monastery under the Town, and consecrated his dividend to God and the Monks, return'd to a very plentiful estate he had in England.
All the Country from Neath to the river Lochor, [...]chor ri [...]r. which is the Western limit of this Country,Brit. Lhychwr. is call'd by us Gower, Gower. by the Britains Gŵyr, and by Ninnius Guhir: where (as he tells us) the sons of Keian a Scot seated themselves, until they were driven out by Kynèdhav a British Prince. In the reign of King Henry the first,Tho. Wallingham. Henry Earl of Warwick subdued this Country of Gower; which afterwards by compact betwixt Thomas Earl of Warwick and King Henry the second, devolv'd to the Crown. But King John bestow'd it on William de Breos, Lib. Monast. Neth 5 Reg Joan. to be held by service of one Knight, for all service. And his heirs successively held it, till the time of Edward the second. For at that time William de Breos having sold it to several persons; that he might ingratiate himself with the King, deluded all others, and put Hugh Spenser in possession of it. And that, amongst several others, was the cause why the Nobles became so exasperated against the Spensers, and so unadvisedly quitted their Allegiance to the King. It is now divided into East and West Gowerland. In East-Gowerland the most noted town is Sweinsey, Swansey. so called by the English from Porpoises or Sea-hogs; and by the Britains Aber-Tawi (from the river Tawi, which runs by it) fortified by Henry Earl of Warwick. But a more ancient place than this, is that at the river Loghor Loghor. which Antoninus calls Leucarum, Leucarum. and is at this day (retaining its ancient name) call'd Loghor [in British Kas-Lychwr.] Where, about the death of King Henry the first, Howel ap Mredydh with a band of Mountaneers, surprized and slew several Englishmen of quality. Beneath this lyes West-Gower, which (the Sea making Creeks on each side it) is become a Peninsula; a place more noted for the corn it affords, than towns. And celebrated heretofore for St. Kynedhav, who led here a solitary life; of whom such as desire a farther account, ma [...] consult our Capgrave, who has sufficiently exto [...]l'd his Miracles.
From the very first conquest of this Country,Lords of Glamorgan. the Clares and Spensers Earls of Glocester (who were lineally descended from Fitz Haimon) were Lords of it. Afterwards the Beauchamps, and one or two of the Nevils; and by a daughter of Nevil (descended also from the Spensers) it came to Richard the third King of England, who being slain, it devolv'd to King Henry the seventh, who granted it to his uncle Gasper Duke of Bedford. He dying without issue, the King resum'd it into his own hands, and left it to his son Henry the eighth; whose son Edward the sixth sold most part of it to William Herbert, whom he had created Earl of Pembroke, and Baron of Caerdiffe.
Of the Off-spring of the twelve Knights before-mention'd, there remain now only in this County the Stradlings, a family very eminent for their many noble Ancestors; with the Turbervils, and some of the Flemmings, whereof the chiefest dwells at Flemmingstone, call'd now corruptly from them Flemston. But in England there remain my Lord St. John of Bletso, the Granvils in Devonshire, and the Siwards (as I am inform'd) in Somersetshire. The Issue-male of all the rest is long since extinct, and their Lands by daughters pass'd over to other families.
Parishes in this County 118.
ADDITIONS to GLAMORGANSHIRE.
[a] IN our entrance upon this County, we are presented with Kaer phyli-castle, [...]er-Phyli- [...]stle. probably the noblest ruins or ancient Architecture now remaining in Britain. For in the judgment of some curious persons, who have seen and compared it with the most noted Castles of England, it exceeds all in bigness, except that of Windsor. That place which Mr. Sanford call'd a Chapel, was probably the same with that which the neighbouring Inhabitants call the Hall. It is a stately room about 70 foot in length, 34 in breadth, and 17 in height. On the South-side we ascend to it by a direct Stair-case, about eight foot wide; the roof whereof is vaulted and supported with twenty arches, which are still gradually higher as you ascend. The entry out of this Stair-case, is not into the middle, but somewhat nearer to the West-end of the room; and opposite to it on the North-side, there is a chimney about ten foot wide. On the same side there are four stately windows (if so we may suppose them) [Page 615-616] two on each side the chimney, of the fashion of Church-windows; but that they are continued down to the very floor, and reach up higher than the height of this room is supposed to have been; so that the room above this Chapel [or Hall] had some part of the benefit of them. The sides of these windows are adorn'd with certain three-leav'd knobs or husks, having a fruit or small round ball in the midst. On the walls on each side the room, are seven triangular pillars, like the shafts of Candlesticks, placed at equal distance. From the floor to the bottom of these pillars, may be about twelve foot and a half; and their height or length seem'd above four foot. Each of these pillars is supported with three Busts, or heads and breasts, which vary alternately. For whereas the first (ex gr.) is supported with the head and breast of an ancient bearded man and two young faces on each side, all with dishevel'd hair; the next shews the face and breasts of a woman with two lesser faces also on each side, the middlemost or biggest having a cloth close tied under the chin, and about the forehead; the lesser two having also forehead-cloths, but none under the chin, all with braided locks. The use of these pillars seems to have been for supporting the beams; but there are also on the south-side six Grooves or chanels in the wall at equal distance, which are about nine inches wide, and eight or nine foot high: four whereof are continued from the tops of the pillars; but the two middlemost are about the middle space between the pillars, and come down lower than the rest, having neat stones jutting out at the bottom, as if intended to support something placed in the hollow Grooves. On the north-side, near the east-end, there's a door about eight foot high; which leads into a spacious Green about seventy yards long and forty broad. At the east-end there are two low-arch'd doors, within a yard of each other; and there was a third near the south-side, but much larger; and another opposite to that on the west-end. The reason why I have been thus particular, is, that such as have been curious in observing ancient buildings, might the better discern whether this room was once a Chapel or Hall, &c. and also in some measure judge of the Antiquity of the place; which, as far as I could hitherto be inform'd, is beyond the reach of history.
That this Castle was originally built by the Romans, seems indeed highly probable, when we consider its largeness and magnificence. Tho' at the same time we must acknowledge, that we have no other reason to conclude it Roman, but the stateliness of its structure. For whereas most or all Roman Cities and Forts of note, afford (in the revolution at least of fifty or sixty years) either Roman Inscriptions, Statues, Bricks, Coyns, Arms, or other Utensils, I could not find, upon diligent enquiry, that any of their Monuments were ever discover'd here. I have indeed two Coyns found at this Castle; one of silver, which I receiv'd amongst many greater favours from the right worshipful Sir John Aubrey of Lhan Trydhyd, Baronet; and the other of brass, which I purchas'd at Kaer-phyli of the person that found it in the Castle. Neither of these are either Roman or English, and therefore probably Welsh. That of silver is as broad, but thinner than a Sixpence, and exhibits on one side the image of our Saviour with this Inscription,
on the Reverse 2 persons. I suppose Saints, with these Letters. [...] The meaning whereof I dare not pretend to explain; but if any should read it Moneta Veneti Regionis, The money of the Country of Gwynedh N [...]rth-Wales., or else Gwent or Went Land, it might perhaps pass as a conjecture something probable, though I should not much contend for it. The brass coyn is like the French pieces of the middle age, and shews on the obverse a Prince crown'd, in a standing posture, holding a Scepter in his right hand, with this Inscription
Ave Maria, &c and on the Reverse a Cross floree with these Letters,
Ave. Taking it for gran [...]d that this place was of Roman foundation, I shou [...]d be apt to conjecture (but that our learned and judicious Author has placed BVLLAEVM mention'd by Ptolemy, in another County) that what we now call Kaer-phyli, was the Bullaeum Silurum of the Romans. Probably Mr. Camden had no other argument (since he produces none) to conclude that Bualht a town in Brecknockshire, was the ancient Bullaeum, but from the affinity of the names; and for that he presum'd it seated in the Country of the Silures. If so, we may also urge, that the name of Caer-phyli comes as near Castrum Bullaei, as Bualht. For such as understand the British tongue, will readily allow, that Bullaeum could not well be otherwise expressed in that language, that Kaer Vwl, Kaer-Vul, (which must be pronounced Kaer Vyl) or (as well as some other names of places) from the genitive case, Kaer-Vyli. That this place was also in the Country of the Silures, is not controverted: and farther, that it has been a Roman garison is so likely, from the stately ruins still remaining, that most curious persons who have seen it, take it for granted. Whereas I cannot learn that any thing was ever discover'd at Bualht, that might argue it inhabited by the Romans; much less a place of note in their time, as Bullaeum Silurum must needs have been.
On a mountain call'd Kevn Gelhi Gaer, not far from this Kaer-Phyli, in the way to Marchnad y wayn; I observ'd (as it seem'd to me) a remarkable monument, which may perhaps deserve the notice of the curious. It's well known by the name of Y maen hîr, Y [...] G. [...] and is a rude stone pillar of a kind of quadrangular form, about 8 foot high; with this Inscription to be read downwards.
It stands not erect, but somewhat inclining; whether casually, or that it was so intended, is uncertain. Close at the bottom of it, on that side it inclines, there's a small bank or intrenchment, inclosing some such space as six yards; and in the midst thereof a square Area, both which may be better delineated than describ'd.
T [...]t [...] The B [...] or A [...]es the [...] of it. The t [...] where Secre i [...] erec [...]ed
I suppose that in the bed or Area in the midst, a person has been interr'd; and that the Inscription must be read Tefro i ti, or Deffro i ti; which is Welsh, and signifies mayst thou awake.
[b] As to the subterraneous noises mention'd by our Author:Th [...] [...] te [...] [...] a [...] Ea [...]y. Isar [...] C [...] tradi [...] what such soever might be heard in this Island in Giraldus's time; 'tis certain (notwithstanding many later Writers have upon this authority taken it for granted) that at present there are no such sounds perceived here. A learned and ingenious Gentleman of this Country, upon this occasion writes thus: I was my self once upon the Island, in company with some inquisitive persons; and we sought over it where such noise might be h [...]rd. Upon failure, we consulted the neighbours, and I have since ask'd literate and knowing men who liv'd nea [...] the Island; who all own'd the tradition, but never kn [...]w it m [...]de out in fact. [Page 617-618] Either then that odd [...] is vanish'd, or the place is mistaken. I shall offer upon this occasion what I think may divert you. You know there is in this chanel, a noted point of land, between the Nash-point in this County, and that of St. Govens in Pembrokeshire; call'd in the Maps and Charts Wormshead-point, for that it appears to the Sailers, like a worm creeping, with its head erect. From the main land, it stretches a mile or better into the sea; and at half-flood, the Isthmus which joyns it to the shore is overflown; so that it becomes then a small Island. Toward the head it self, or that part which is farthest out in the sea, there is a small cleft or crevise in the ground, into which if you throw a handful of dust or sand, it will be blown up back again into the air. But if you kneel or lye down, and lay your ears to it, you then hear distinctly the deep noise of a prodigious large bellows. The reason is obvious: for the reciprocal motion of the Sea, under the arch'd and rocky hollow of this headland or Promontory, makes an inspiration and expiration of the Air, through the cleft, and that alternately; and consequently the noise, as of a pair of bellows in motion. I have been twice there to observe it, and both times in the Summer season, and in very calm weather. But I do believe a stormy sea would give not only the foremention'd sound, but all the variety of the other noises ascrib'd to Barry; especially if we a little indulge our fancy, as they that make such comparisons generally do. The same, I doubt not, happens in other places upon the sea-shore, whereever a deep water, and rocky concave, with proper clefts for conveyance, concur. In Sicily especially, where there are moreover fire and sulphur for the Bellows to work upon; and chimneys in those Vulcano's to carry off the smoak. But now that this Wormshead should be the intended Isle of Barry, may seem very uncouth. Here I consider, that Burry is the most remarkable river (next that of Swansy) for trade, in all Gower; and its Ostium is close by Wormshead, so that whoever sails to the N. E. of Wormshead, is said to sail for the river of Barry. Wormshead again is but a late name; but the name of the river Burry is immemorial. Now he that had a mind to be critical might infer, either that Wormshead was of old call'd the Island of Burry; or at least, that before the name of Wormshead was in being, the report concerning these noises might run thus: that near Burry, or as you sail into Burry, there is an Island, where there is a cleft in the ground, to which if you lay your ear, you'll hear such and such noises. Now Barry for Burry is a very easie mistake, &c.
[c] In the Church-yard at Lantwit major, or Lhan Ilhtud vawr, on the North-side of the Church,A Pyramidal carv'd Stone. there are two stones erected, which seem to deserve our notice. The first is close by the Church-wall, and is of a pyramidal form, about seven foot in height. It is adorn'd with old British carving, such as may be seen on the pillars of crosses, in several parts of Wales. It is at three several places, at equal distance, encompass'd with three circles. From the lowest three circles to the ground, it is ingrail'd or indented; but elsewhere adorn'd with knots. The circumference of it at the three highest circles, is three foot and a half; at the middlemost, above four foot, and the lowest about five. It has on one side, from the top (which seems to have been broken) to the bottom, a notable furrow or Canaliculus about four inches broad, and two in depth. Which I therefore noted particularly, because upon perusal of a Letter from the very learned and ingenious Dr. James Garden of Aberdeen, to Mr. J. Aubrey R. S. S. I found the Doctor had observ'd that amongst their circular stone-monuments in Scotland, (such as that at Rolrich, &c. in England) sometimes a stone or two is found with a cavity on the top of it, capable of a pint or two of liquor; and such a Groove or small chink as this I mention, continued downwards from this bason: so that whatever liquor is pour'd on the top, must run down this way. Whereupon he suggests, that supposing (as Mr. Aubrey does) such circular monument [...] to have been Temples of the Druids, those stones might serve perhaps for their Libamina or liquid sacrifices But although this stone agrees with those mention'd by Dr. Garden, in having a furrow or crany on one side; yet in regard of the carving, it differs much from such old monuments; which are gene [...]ally, if not always, very plain and rude: so that perhaps it never belong'd to such a circular monument, but was erected on some other occasion. The other stone is also elaborately carv'd, and was once the shaft or Pedestal of a Cross. On the one side it hath an Inscription,An Insc [...] ption. shewing that one Samson set it up, pro anima ejus; and another on the opposite side, signifying also that Samson erected it to St. Iltutus or Ilhtud; but that one Samuel was the Carver. These Inscriptions I thought worth the publishing, that the curious might have some light into the form of our Letters in the middle ages.
S [...]son po [...]t hanc [...]em pro [...] ejus.
Crux Iltuti. Samson. redis. Samuel Egisar. Legendum fortè excisor.
I [...]aen [...]thyro [...] My [...]ydh Mar [...]m.[d] The Inscription mention'd by our Author, was in the former editions erroneous; as may be seen by such as will take the trouble of comparing it with the Original still remaining in the same place, and well known in this part of the country by the name of Y maen Chythŷrog. I have therefore given a new specimen of it from the monument it self, as also of all others (two or three excepted) which our Author has observ'd in Wales. In old Inscriptions we often find the Letter V. where we use O. as here, Pronepvs for Pronepos Vide Rei [...] Syn [...]a In [...]p. pag. [...]3 [...].: so that there was no necessity of inventing this character θ (made use of in the former editions) which I presume is such, as was never found in any Inscription whatever. In Reinesius Syntag. Inscriptionum p. 700. we find the Epitaph of one Boduacus, dug up at Nimes in France. Whereupon he tells us that the Roman name Betulius was changed by the Gauls into Boduacus. But it may seem equally probable, if not more likely, since we also find Bodvoc here; that it was a Gaulish or British name: and the name of the famous Queen of the Iceni, Boadicea, seems also to share in the same original. Sepulchres are in old Inscriptions often call'd Domus aeternae, but aeternalis seems a barbarous word.
[e] The other Inscription mention'd by him is also at this day in the same place, and is called by the common people Bêdh Morgan Morgànwg, Bêdh Morgan Morgànwg. viz. The Sepulchre of Prince Morgan: which (whatever gave occasion to it) is doubtless an erroneous tradition; it being no other than the tomb-stone of one Pompeius Carantopius, as plainly appears by this Copy of it I lately transcrib'd from the stone. As for the word Pumpeius for Pompeius, we have already observ'd, that in old Inscriptions, the Letter V. is frequently us'd for O.
¶ There is also another monument, which seem'd to me more remarkable than either of these,Mândoc lygad [...] ŷch. at a place call'd Panwen Byrdhin, in the Parish of Kadokston or Lhan Gadok, about six miles above Neath. It is well known in that part of the County by the name of Maen dau Lygadyr ŷch, and is so call'd, from two small circular entrenchments, like cock-pits: one of which had lately in the midst of it a rude stone pillar, about three foot in height, with this Inscription, to be read downwards.
which perhaps we must read Marci (or perhaps memoriae) Caritini filii Bericii. But what seem'd to me most remarkable, were the round Areae; having never seen, nor been inform'd of such places of Burial elsewhere. So that on first sight, my conjecture was, that this had happen'd on occasion of a Duel, each party having first prepared his place of interment: and that therefore there being no stone in the centre of the other circle, this Inscription must have been the monument of the party slain. It has been lately remov'd a few paces out of the circle, and is now pitch'd on end, at a gate in the highway. But that there never was but one stone here, seems highly probable from the name Maen dau lygadyr ŷch: whereas had there been more, this place, in all likelihood, had still retain'd the name of Meneu Lhydaidyr ŷch.
On a Mountain call'd Mynydh Gelhi Onnen A Monument on Mynyah Gelhi Onnen. in the Parish of Lhan Gyvelach, I observ'd a Monument which stood lately in the midst of a small Karn or heap of stones, but is now thrown down and broken in three or four pieces; differing from all I have seen elsewhere. 'Twas a flat stone, about three inches thick, two foot broad at bottom, and about five in height. The top of it is form'd as round as a wheel, and thence to the basis it becomes gradually broader. On one side it is carv'd with some art, but much more labour. The round head is adorn'd with a kind of flourishing cross, like a Garden-knot: below that there is a man's face and hands on each side; and thence almost to the bottom, neat Fretwork; beneath which there are two feet, but as rude and ill-proportion'd (as are also the face and hands) as some Egyptian Hieroglyphick.
Not far from hence, within the same Parish, is Karn Lhechart, Karn Lhechart. a Monument that gives denomination to the Mountain on which it is erected. 'Tis a circle of rude stones, which are somewhat of a flat form, such as we call Lhecheu, disorderly pitch'd in the ground, of about 17 or 18 yards diameter; the highest of which now standing is not above a yard in height. It has but one entry into it, which is about four foot wide: and in the center of the Area, it has such a Cell or Hut, as is seen in several places of Wales, and call'd Kist vaen: one of which is describ'd in Brecknockshire, by the name of St. Iltut's Cell. This at Karn Lhèchart is about six foot in length, and four wide, and has no top-stone now for a cover; but a very large one lyes by, which seems to have slipt off. Y Gîst vaen on a Mountain call'd Mynydhy Drymmeu by Neath, seems to have been also a Monument of this kind, but much less; and to differ from it, in that the Circle about it was Mason-work, as I was inform'd by a Gentleman who had often seen it whilst it stood; for at present there's nothing of it remaining. But these kind of Monuments, which some ascribe to the Danes, and others suppose to have been erected by the Britains before the Roman Conquest, we shall have occasion to speak of more fully hereafter. Another Monument there is on a Mountain call'd Kevn bryn, in Gower,Arthur's stone in Gower. which may challenge a place also among such unaccountable Antiquities, as are beyond the reach of History; whereof the same worthy person that sent me his conjecture of the subterraneous noise in Barry-Island, gives the following account:
As to the stones you mention, they are to be seen upon a jutting at the Northwest of Kevn bryn, the most noted Hill in Gower. They are put together by labour enough, but no great art, into a pile; and their fashion and positure is this: There is a vast unwrought stone (probably about twenty tun weight) supported by six or seven others that are not above four foot high, and these are set in a Circle, some on end, and some edge-wise, or sidelong, to bear the great one up. They are all of them of the Lapis molaris kind, which is the natural stone of the Mountain. The great one is much diminish'd of what it has been in bulk, as having five tuns or more (by report) broke off it to make Mill-stones; so that I guess the stone originally to have been between 25 and 30 tuns in weight. The carriage, rearing, and placing of this massy rock, is plainly an effect of human industry and art; but the Pulleys and Levers, the force and skill by which 'twas done, are not so easily imagin'd. The common people call it Arthur's stone, by a lift of vulgar imagination, attributing to that Hero an extravagant size and strength. Under it is a Well, which (as the neighbourhood tell me) has a flux and reflux with the Sea; of the truth whereof I cannot as yet satisfie you, &c. There are divers Monuments of this kind in Wales, some of which we shall take notice of in other Counties. In Anglesey (where there are many of them) as also in some other places, they are call'd Krom-lecheu; a name deriv'd from Krwm, which signifies crooked or inclining; and lhech a flat stone: but of the name more hereafter. 'Tis generally supposed they were places of burial; but I have not yet learn'd that ever any Bones or Urns were found by digging under any of them.
Edward Somerset Lord Herbert of Chepstow, Ragland, and Gower, obtain'd of K. Charles 1. the title of Earl of Glamorgan, Earls of Glamogan. his father the Lord Marquiss of Worcester being then alive; the Succession of which Family may be seen in the Additions to Worcestershire.
DIMETAE.
aTHE remainder of this Region which is extended Westward, and call'd by the English West-Wales, West-Wales. comprehending Caer-mardhin-shire, Pembrokeshire, and Cardiganshire, was thought by Pliny to have been inhabited by the Silures. But Ptolemy to whom Britain was better known, placed another Nation here, whom he call'd Dimetae and Demetae. Moreover, both Gildas and Ninnius used the word Demetia to signifie this Country; whence the Britains call it at this day Dyved, changing the M into V, according to the propriety of that Language.
If it would not be thought a strain'd piece of curiosity, I should be apt to derive this appellation of the Demetae, from the words Deheu-meath, which signifie the Southern plain; as all this South-Wales has been call'd Deheu-barth; i.e. the Southern Part. And I find that elsewhere the Inhabitants of a champain Country in Britain were call'd by the Britains themselves Meatae. Nor does the situation of this Country contradict that signification; for when you take a prospect of it, the Hills decline gently, and it dilates it self gradually to a Plaina.
CAER-MARDHIN-SHIRE.
THE County of Kaer-Vyrdhin, call'd by the English Caer-Mardhin-shire, is a Country sufficiently supply'd with Corn, very well stock'd with Cattel; and in divers places affords plenty of Coal. It is bounded on the East with Glamorgan and Brecknock shires; on the West with Pembroke, on the North divided from Cardiganshire by the river Teivi, and on the South with the main Ocean, which encroaches on the Land here, with such a vast Bay, [...]. that this Country might seem out of fear to have withdrawn it self. In this Bay Kydweli first offers it self, the territory whereof was possessed for some time by the sons of Keianus a Scot, until they were driven out by Kynèdhav a British Prince. But now it is esteem'd part of the Inheritance of Lancaster, by the heirs of Maurice of London, or de Londres, who removing from Glamorganshire, after a tedious war, made himself Master of it, and fortified old Kydweli with Walls, and a Castle, now decay'd with age. For the Inhabitants passing over the river of Gwen-draeth vechan, built new Kydweli, invited thither by the conveniency of a Haven, which yet at present is of no great use, being choak'd with shelves. [...]h [...]an, [...]an of [...]y con [...]. When Maurice of London invaded these Territories, Gwenlhîan the wife of Prince Gryffydh, a woman of invincible courage, (endeavouring to restore her husband's declining state) enter'd the field with display'd banner, and encounter'd him. But the success not being answerable to her courage, she with her son Morgan, and divers other Noblemen (as Giraldus informs us) were slain in the field. [...] of [...]or and [...]eli.
By Hawis the daughter and heiress of1 Thomas de Londres, this fair Inheritance, with the Title of Lord of Ogmor and Kydweli, descended to Patrick Chaworth, and by a daughter of his son Patrick, to Henry Earl of Lancaster. The heirs of Maurice de Londres (as we read in an old Inquisition) were obliged by this Tenure, in case the King, or his Chief Justice should lead an Army into these parts of Kydweli, to conduct the said Army, with their Banners, and all their Forces, through the midst of the Country of Neath to Lochor.
[...]iver [...] or [...]s.A little below Kydweli, the river Towy, which Ptolemy calls Tobius, is received into the Ocean, having passed the length of this County from North to South. First by Lhan ym Dhyvri (so call'd as is supposed from the confluence of rivers) which out of malice to the English, was long since demolish'd by Howel ap Rhŷs. [...]r. Afterwards, by Dinevor-castle, the Royal Seat of the Princes of South-Wales, whilst they flourish'd, situated aloft on the top of a Hill. And at last by Caer-mardhin, which the Britains themselves call Kaer-Vyrdhin, Ptolemy Maridunum, Maridunum. and Antoninus Muridunum, who continues not his journeys any farther than this place,Caer-Mardhin. and is here by negligence of the Copyists ill handled. For they have carelesly confounded two Journeys: the one from Galena to Isca; the other from Maridunum to Viroconovium. This is the chief town of the County, pleasantly seated for Meadows and Woods, and a place of venerable Antiquity; fortified neatly (saith Giraldus) with brick-walls partly yet standing, on the noble river of Towy: navigable with ships of small burden; tho' the mouth of it be now almost stopp'd with a bed of Sand. Here our Merlin,Merlin, or Myrdhin Emris. the British Tages, was born: for as Tages was reported to have been the son of a Genius, and to have taught the Tuscans South-saying; so our Merlin, who was said to have been the son of an Incubus, devised Prophecies, or rather mere Phantastical Dreams, for our Britains. Insomuch, that in this Island he has the reputation of an eminent Prophet, amongst the ignorant common people [a].
Soon after the Normans enter'd Wales, this town fell into their possession, but by whose means I know not; and a long time it encounter'd many difficulties: having been often besieged, and twice burnt; first by Gryffydh ap Rhŷs, and afterwards by Rhŷs the said Gryffydh's brother. At which time, Henry Turbervil, an Englishman, reliev'd the castle, and cut down the bridge. But the walls and castle being afterwards repair'd by Gilbert de Clare, it was freed from these miseries; so that being thus secured, it bore the tempests of war much easier afterwards. The Princes of Wales, eldest sons of the Kings of England, settl'd here their Chancery and Exchequer for South-Wales. Opposite to this city, towards the east, lies Cantrevbychan, Cantrevbychan. which signifies the lesser Hundred (for the Britains call such a portion of a country as contains 100 villages, Kantrev) where may be seen the ruins of Kastelh Karreg, which was seated on a steep, and on all sides inaccessible rock; and several vast cavernsCaverns. [b], now all cover'd with green Turf (where, in the time of War, such as were unfit for arms, are thought to have secured themselves:) a notable fountain also, which (as Giraldus writes) ebbing and flowing twice in twenty four hours, imitates the sea-tides.
On the north is extended Cantrev Mawr, or the [Page 623-624] great Hundred; a safe retiring place heretofore for the Britains, as being very woody and rocky, and full of uncouth ways, by reason of the winding of the hills. On the south, the Castles of Talcharn Talcharn. and Lhan Stephan Lhan Stephan. stand on the sea-rocks, and are ample testimonies of warlike prowess, as well in the English as Britains. Below Talcharn, the riverBrit. Tâv. Taff is discharg'd into the sea: on the bank of which river, was famous heretofore Ty gwyn ar Dav, which signifies, the white house on the river Taff; so call'd, because it was built of white hasel-rods for a Summer-house. Here, in the year of our redemption 914. Howel, 1 sirnam'd the Good, Prince of Wales, in a full assembly (there being besides Laymen, 140 Ecclesiasticks) abrogated the Laws of his Ancestors, and gave new Laws to his people; as the Preface before those laws testifies [d]. In which place a small Monastery was built afterwards, call'd Witland-Abbey. Witland Abbey. Not far from hence is Kilmaen Lhwyd, where some Country-men lately discover'd an earthen Vessel, that contain'd a considerable quantity of Roman CoinsRoman Coyns. of embas'd silver: from the time of Commodus (who was the first of the Roman Emperours that embas'd silver) to the fifth Tribuneship of Gordian the third; which falls in with the year of Christ 243. Amongst these were Helvius Pertinax, Marcus Opellius, Antoninus Diadumenianus, Julius Verus, Maximus the son of Maximinus, Caelius Balbinus, Clodius Pupienus, Aquilia Severa the wife of Elagabalus, and Sall. Barbia Orbiana: which (as being very rare) were Coyns of considerable value amongst Antiquaries [e].
It remains now, that I give some account of New-castle; New- [...]e a small town seated on the bank of the river Teivi, which divides this County from Cardiganshire; for so they now call it, because it was repair'd by2 Rhŷs ap Thomas, a stout warriour (who assisted Hen. 7. in gaining his Kingdom, and was by him deservedly created Knight of the Garter,) whereas formerly it was call'dV [...]. Em [...]. Elmlin. Which name, if the English gave it from Elm-trees; their conjecture is not to be despis'd, who are of opinion it was the Loventium Lo [...]en [...] of the Dimetae mention'd by Ptolemy: for an Elm is call'd in British Lhwyven [f]. Seeing we find it not recorded, which of the Normans first extorted this Country out of the hands of the Princes of Wales; Order requires that we now proceed to the description of Pembrokeshire.
This County has 87 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to CAER-MARDHIN-SHIRE.
[a] MErlin, or Merdhin Emrys (for so our Writers call him) flourish'd An. 480. The first of our Historians that mentions him isEulogium Brit. c. 42. &c. Ninnius, who supposes he was call'd Embreys Gleutic. He says nothing of his being the son of an Incubus; but on the contrary tells us expresly, his mother was afraid of owning the father, lest she should be sentenc'd to dye for it: but that the boy confess'd to King Vortigern, that his father was by Nation a Roman. The same Author informs us, that King Vortigern's Messengers found him ad campum Electi in regione quae vocatur Glevising; which whether it were at this Town or County, or in some other place, seems very questionable; no places (that I can hear of) being known by such names at present. All the Monkish Writers that mention him, make him either a Prophet or Magician. But H. Lhwyd Com. Brit. Descript. p. 65. a judicious Author, and very conversant in British Antiquities, informs us he was a man of extraordinary learning and prudence for the time he liv'd in; and that for some skill in the Mathematicks, many Fables were invented of him by the vulgar; which being afterwards put in writing, were handed down to posterity.
[b] These Caverns (taken notice of by our Author) are supposed, by some inquisitive persons who have often view'd them, to have been Copper-mines of the Romans. And indeed, seeing it is evident (from some Antiquities found there) that Kaer-Gai in Meirionydh-shire was a Roman Town or Fort; and that the place where these Caves are, is also call'd Kaio; I am apt to infer from the name, that this place must have been likewise well known to the Romans. And that I may note this by the way, I suspect most names of places in Wales that end in I or O. such as Bod-Vari, Kevn Korwyni, Kaer-Gai; Lhannio, Keidio, and Kaio, to be Roman names; such terminations being not so agreeable with the Idiotism of the British. But for the Antiquity of this place, we need not wholly rely upon conjectures: for I have lately receiv'd from Mr. Erasmus Saunders, A. B. of Jesus College, Oxon. these following Inscriptions; which he copy'd from two stones at a place call'd Pant y Pòlion, in this parish. The first, which I suppose to be Roman, lies flat on the ground, and is placed cross a gutter: but the other, which seems to be of somewhat a later date, is pitch'd on end, and is about a yard in height; the Inscription whereof is to be read downwards:
Servator fidei, Patriae semper amator, hic Paulinus jacit, cultor pientissimus aequi.
[c] I cannot conjecture what might be the original signification of this word Tâv: but it may be worth our observation, that the most noted rivers in South-Wales seem to have been thence denominated: for besides that there are three or four rivers of that name; the first Syllable also in Tawy, Towy, Teivi, and Dyvi, seems to me but so many various pronunciations of it: and for the latter Syllable, I have * elsewhere offer'd my conjecture,R. [...]. An [...] [...]. that it only denotes a River, or perhaps Water. Nor would it seem to me very absurd, if any should derive the name of the river Thames from the same original. For since we find it pretty evident, that the Romans changed Dyved (the ancient name of this Country) into Dimetia, and Kynedhav (a man's name) into † Cunotamus: [...] [...]d [...]n P [...] [...]shire. and also that in many words where the Latins use an M. the Britains have an V. as Firmus, Firv; Terminus, Tervin; Amnis, Avon; Lima, Lhîv; &c. it seems not unlikely, (considering we find the word Tâv, usual in the names of our rivers) that the Britains might call that river Tâv, Tàvwy, or Tàvwys, before the Roman Conquest; which they afterwards call'd Tamesis.
[d] An ancient MS. Copy of the Laws mention'd by Mr. Camden, may be seen at Jesus College Library in Oxford, fairly writ on parchment; the Preface whereof does not inform us that Howel Dha abrogated all the Laws of his Ancestors; but expresly tells us, that according to the advice of his Council, some of the ancient Laws he retain'd, others he corrected, and some he quite disannull'd, [...] [...]yn [...] a [...] [...] [...]y, [...]. [...]w [...]i [...] [...]ll [...]ra [...]a [...]. appointing others in their stead ‖.
[e] Anno 1692. there were about 200 Roman Coins found not far from hence, at a place call'd Bronyskawen in Lhan Boydy parish. They were discover'd by 2 Shepherd boys, at the very entry of a spacious Camp call'd y Gaer; buried in 2 very rude leaden boxes (one of which I have caus'd to be figur'd in the Table, n. 10.) so near the surface of the ground, that were not wholly out of sight. They were all of silver, and were some of the ancientest Roman Coins we find in Britain. Of about 30 I have seen of them, the latest were of Domitian Cos. xv. An. Dom. 91. But perhaps a Catalogue of them may not be unacceptable to the curious; though I have only those in my possession which are thus distinguish'd with an asterisk *.
- 1. Ant. Aug. 111 vir R. P. C. Navis praetoria.
- ☿. Ns Leg. V... Duo vexilla castrensia, cum tertia in medio longe breviori, in cujus summo, aquila alis altius erectis.
- 2. Ant. Aug. Navis praetoria.
- Leg. X. Duo signa castrensia cum aquila legionaria *.
- 3. Ant. Aug. 111 vir R. P. C. Navis praetoria.
- Leg. XIII. Tria vexilla castrensia.
- 4. — Caput forte Neptuni cum Tridente à tergo.
- Ins. Cuc. Re.. Victoria in dorso Delphini. Hic nummus etiam M. Antonii videtur.
- 5. Q. Cassius Vest. Imago virginis Vestalis.
- Ac. Templum Vestae cum sella & urna. *.
- 6. Q Cassius Libert. Imago Libertatis.
- Ac. Templum Vestae cum sella curuli & urna. *.
- 7. Geta 111 vir. Imago Dianae.
- — Nummus serratus.
- 8. C. Hosidi C. F. Aper Venabulo trajectus cum cane venatico.
- Geta 111 vir. Imago Dianae cum pharetra & Arcu *.
- 9. Marc ⚹ Caput Romae.
- Roma. Quadrigae.
- 10. C. 111. Nae. B. Victoria in Trigis.
- Deae cujusdam Imago.
- 11. L. Procili F. Juno sospita in bigis: infra serpens Lanuvinus.
- Junonis sospitae imago. Nummus serratus *.
- 12. M. Thoriv. Balbu. Taurus decurrens.
- I S. M. R. Scspita Juno.
- 13. ... tori.. Victoria in quadrigis.
- Sc. R. Caput Romae. Nummus serratus *.
- 14. Caesar. Elephas cum Dracone.
- Capeduncula, Aspergillum, Securis, & Albogalerus: signa Pontificis maximi & Dialis Flaminis *.
- 15. Caput Augusti, sine Inscriptione.
- Caesar Divi F. Figura stolata, dextrâ ramum, sinistrâ cornu copiae *.
- 16. Ti. Caesar Divi Aug. F. Aug.
- Figura sedens, dextrâ hastam, sinistrâ ramum.
- 17. T. Claud. Caesar Aug. Germ. Trib. Pot. P. P.
- Agrippinae Augustae. Caput Agrippinae.
- 18. Nero Caesar Augustus.
- Jupiter Custos. Jupiter sedens, dextrâ fulmen tenens, sinistrâ Cathedrae innixa *.
- 19. Nero Caesar Augustus.
- Salus. Figura Cathedrae insidens, dextrâ pateram.
- 20. Imp. Ser. Galba Caes. Aug.
- Salus Gen.... mani [fortè Generis humani] Figura stans coram ara accensa, sinistrâ temonem, dextro pede globum calcans.
- 21. Imp. M. Otho Caesar Aug. Tr. P.
- Securitas P. R. Figura stans, dextrâ corollam, sinistrâ bacillum *.
- 22. Imp. Caesar Vespasianus Augustus.
- Pont. Max. Tr. P. Cos. V. Caduceum alatum.
- 23. Caesar Aug. Domitianus.
- Cos.... Pegasus.
- 24. Imp. Caes. Domit. Aug. Germ. Tr. P.
- Imp. xxi. Cos. xv. Cens P. P. P. Pallas navi insistens, dextrâ jaculum, sinistrâ scutum.
The Camp where these Coyns were found, is somewhat of an oval form, and may be at least 300 paces in circumference. The bank or rampire is near the entry, about three yards in height; but elsewhere 'tis generally much lower. At the entrance (which is about four yards wide) the two ends of the dike are not directly opposite; the one (at the point whereof the Coins were found) being continu'd somewhat farther out than the other, so as to render the passage oblique. On each side the Camp, there is an old Barrow or Tumulus; the one a small one, somewhat near it; the other, which is much bigger, at least 300 yards distant: both hollow on the top. The leaden boxes wherein these Coins were preserv'd, are so very rude, that were it not for what they contain'd, I should never imagine them Roman. For they appear only like lumps of leadore, and weigh about 5 pound, though they contain scarce half a pint of liquor. They are of an orbicular form, like small loaves; and have a round hole in the middle of the lid, about the circumference of a shilling.
[f] The old British name of Emlin is Dinas Emlin; the most obvious interpretation whereof (tho' I shall not much contend for it) is Urbs Aemiliani. I cannot find that ever it was call'd Elmlin, either in Welsh or English; and therefore dare not subscribe to our Author's conjecture, that the Lovantinum of the Dimetae, mention'd by Ptolemy, was at this place; nor yet that it perish'd (which he also proposes as probable) in the lake Lhyn Savadhan in Brecknockshire. Indeed the footsteps of several Towns and Forts that flourish'd in the time of the Romans, are now so obscure and undiscernable, that we are not to wonder if the conjectures of learned and judicious men about their situation, prove sometimes erroneous. I have lately observ'd in Cardiganshire, some tokens of a Roman Fort, which I suspect to have been the Lovantinum or Lovantium of Ptolemy; for which I shall take the liberty of offering my arguments, when we come into that County.
¶ Besides the Inscriptions we observ'd at Kaio, there are three or four others in this County which may deserve our notice.Aliàs Lhan-Vih [...]ngel y Krwys. The first is not far from Caer-Mardhin town in Lhan-Newydh parish; which by the names therein should be Roman; tho' the form of some Letters, and the rudeness of the Stone on which they are inscrib'd, might give us grounds to suspect it the Epitaph of some person of Roman descent, but that liv'd somewhat later than their time. The stone is a rude pillar, erected near the highway; somewhat of a flat form, five or six foot high, and about half a yard in breadth, and contains the following Inscription, not to be read downwards, as on many stones in these Countries, but from the left to the right.
Sepulch [...]um] Severini filii Severi.
The second is in the Parish of Hen-lhan Amgoed, in a field belonging to Parkeu, and is almost such a Monument as the former. At present it lyes on the ground; but considering its form, 'tis probable it stood heretofore upright; and if so, the Inscription was read downwards.
Sepulchrum] [an C [...]i?] Menvenda ni filii Barcuni.
Both these names of Menvendan and Barcun, are now obsolete; nor do I remember to have read either of them, in any Genealogical MS. But near this Monument there is a place call'd Kevn Varehen, which may seem to be denominated, either from this Barcun, or some other of the same name. The third and fourth Inscription was copied by my above-mention'd friend Mr. Erasmus Saunders, from a polish'd Free-stone at the West-end of the Church of Lhan Vihangel Gerwerth.
Hic jacet Ulcacinus filius Senomacili.
The fourth (which seems less intelligible than the rest) was also communicated by the same hand. The stone whence he copied it, is neatly carv'd, about 6 foot high, and 2 foot broad, and has a cavity on the top, which makes me suspect it to have been no other than the Pedestal of a Cross. It may be seen at a place denominated from it, Kae'r Maen, not far from Aber Sannan; but for the meaning of the Inscription, if it be any other than the Stone-cutter's name, (tho' I confess I know no name like it) I must leave it to the Reader's conjecture.
In the Parish of Lhan Vair y Bryn, we find manifest signs of a place possess'd by the Romans. For not far from the East-end of the Church, Labourers frequently dig up bricks, and meet with some other marks of Roman Antiquitiy; and there is a very notable Roman way of Gravel and small Pebles, continued from that Church to Lhan Brân, the seat of the worshipful Sackvil Gwyn Esq which (as I am told) may be also trac'd betwixt this Lhan Vair, and Lhan Deilaw vawr, and is visible in several other places.
This Country abounds with ancient Forts, Camps, and Tumuli or Barrows, which we have not room here to take notice of. I shall therefore mention only one Barrow, call'd Krîg y Dyrn, in the Parish of Tre'lech, which seems particularly remarkable. The circumference of it at bottom may be about 60 paces, the height about 6 yards. It rises with an easie ascent, and is hollow on the top, gently inclining from the circumference to the center. This Barrow is not a mount of Earth, as others generally are; but seems to have been such a heap of stones, as are call'd in Wales Karnedheu (whereof the Reader may see some account in Radnorshire) cover'd with Turf. At the center of the cavity on the top we find a vast rude Lhech [or flat stone] somewhat of an oval form, about three yards in length, five foot over where broadest, and about ten or twelve inches thick. AM [...] an. [...] of L [...] D [...]. Gentleman, to satisfie my curiosity, having employ'd some Labourers to search under it, found it after removing much stone, to be the covering of such a barbarous Monument as we call Kist-vaen, or Stone-chest; which was about four foot and a half in length, and about three foot broad, but somewhat narrower at the East than West-end. 'Tis made up of 7 stones, viz. the covering-stone already mention'd, two side-stones, one at each end, and one behind each of these for the better securing or bolstering of them; all equally rude, and about the same thickness, the two last excepted, which are considerably thicker. They found as well within the Chest as without, some rude pieces of brick (or stones burnt like them) and free-stone, some of which were wrought. They observ'd also some pieces of bones, but such as they supposed only brought in by Foxes, but not sinking to the bottom of the Chest, we know not what else it may afford.
Krîg y Dyrn (the name of this Tumulus) is now scarce intelligible; but if a conjecture may be allow'd, I should be apt to interpret it King's Barrow. I am sensible that even such as are well acquainted with the Welsh Tongue, ma [...] at first view think this a groundless opinion, and wonder what I aim at; but when they consider that the common word Teyrnas, which signifies a Kingdom, is only a derivative from the old word Teyrn, (which was originally the same with Tyrannus, and signified a King or Prince;) they will perhaps acknowledge it not altogether improbable. And considering the rudeness of the Monument describ'd, and yet the labour and force required in erecting it, I am apt to suspect it the Barrow of some British Prince, who might live probably before the Roman Conquest. For seeing it is much too barbarous to be supposed Roman; and that we do not find in History that the Saxons were ever concern'd here, or the Danes any farther than in plundering the Sea-coasts, it seems necessary to conclude it British. That it was a Royal Sepulchre I am apt to infer, partly from the signification of the name; which being not understood in these ages, could not therefore be any novel invention of the vulgar; and partly for that (as I hinted already) more labour and force was required here than we can suppose to be allow'd to persons of inferiour quality. That 'tis older than Christianity, there's no room to doubt; but that it was before the Roman Conquest, is only my conjecture, supposing that after the Britains were reduced by the Romans, they had none whom they could call Teyrn or King, whose corps or ashes might be reposited here.
Gwâly Vilast or Bwrdh Arthur in Lhan Boudy parish, is a monument in some respect like that we have described at this Barrow, viz. a rude stone about ten yards in circumference, and above three foot thick, supported by four pillars, which are about two foot and a half in length.
But Buarth Arthur or Meineu Gŵyr, on a Mountain near Kîl y maen lhŵyd, is one of that kind of circular Stone-monuments our English Historians ascribe to the Danes. The Diameter of the Circle is about twenty yards. The stones are as rude as may be, and pitch'd on end at uncertain distances from each other, some at three or four foot, but others about two yards; and are also of several heights, some being about three or four foot high, and others five or six. There are now standing here fifteen of them; but there seem to be seven or eight carried off. The entry into it for about the space of three yards, is guarded on each side with stones much lower and less than those of the circle, pitch'd so close as to be contiguous. And over against this avenue, at the distance of about 200 paces, there stand on end three other large, rude stones, which I therefore note particularly, because there are also four or five stones erected at such a distance from that circular Monument they call King's-stones near Little Rolrich in Oxfordshire. As for the name of Bruarth Arthur, 'tis only a nick name of the [Page] vulgar, whose humour it is, though not so much (as some have imagin'd) out of ignorance and credulity, as a kind of Rustick diversion, to dedicate many unaccountable Monuments to the memory of that Hero; calling some stones of several tun weight his Coits, others his Tables, Chairs, &c. But Meineu gŵyr is so old a name, that it seems scarce intelligible. Meineu is indeed our common word for large stones; but gŵyr in the present British signifies only crooked, which is scarce applicable to these stones, unless we should suppose them so denominated, because some of them are not at present directly upright, but a little inclining. It may be, such as take these circular Monuments for Druid-Temples may imagine them so call'd from bowing, as having been places of worship. For my part I leave every man to his conjecture, and shall only add that near Capel King in Caernarvonshire, there is a stone pitch'd on end, call'd also Maen gŵyr; which perhaps is the only Stone now remaining of such a circular Monument as this. At leastwise it has such a Kist vaen by it (but much less) as that we observ'd in the midst of the Monument describ'd in Glamorganshire, by the name of Karn Lhechart.
Of late, Carmarthen hath given the title of Marquiss to the right honourable Thomas Osborn, Marquiss of Carmarthen. Earl of Danby; upon whose advancement to the Dukedom of Leeds, the honour of Marquiss of Carmarthen is now descended to his eldest son and heir.
PENBROKSHIRE.
THE Sea now winding it self to the South, and by a vast compass and several Creeks rendring the shore very uneven, encroaches on all sides on the County of Penbroke (commonly call'd Penbrokshire, in ancient Records The Legal County of Penbroke, and by some, West-Wales) except on the East, where it is bounded with Caermardhin-shire, and the North, where it borders on Cardiganshire. 'Tis a fertile Country for Corn, affords plenty of Marl and such like things to fatten and enrich the Land, as also of Coal for Fuel, and is very well stock'd with Cattel. This Country (saith Giraldus) affords plenty of Wheat, is well serv'd with Sea-fish and imported Wine; and (which exceeds all other advantages) in regard of its nearness to Ireland, enjoys a wholsome Air.
First, on the Southern Coast, Tenbigh [...]en [...]gh. a neat town,1 strongly wall'd, beholds the Sea from the dry shore; a place much noted for the Ships that harbour there, and for plenty of Fish, whence in British it's call'd Dinbech y Pyskod; govern'd by a Mayor and a Bailiff. To the West of this place are seen on the shore the ruins of Manober Castle, [...]. call'd by Giraldus Pyrrhus's Mansion; in whose time (as he himself informs us) it was adorn'd with stately Towers and Bulwarks, having on the West-side a spacious Haven, and under the Walls, to the North and Northwest an excellent Fish-pond, remarkable as well for its neatness, as the depth of its water. The shore being continu'd some few miles from hence, and at length withdrawing it self, the Sea on both sides comes far into the Land, and makes that Port which the English call Milford-Haven; [...]fo [...]d- [...]en. than which there is none in Europe, either more spacious or secure, so many Creeks and Harbours hath it on all sides; and to use the Poet's words,
For it contains sixteen Creeks, five Bays, and thirteen Roads, distinguish'd by their several names. Nor is this Haven more celebrated for these advantages, than for Henry the Seventh of happy memory landing here; who from this place gave England (at that time languishing with Civil Wars) the Signal of good hopes.
At the innermost and eastern Bay of this Haven2, [...]br [...]ke. a long Cape (saith Giraldus) extended from Milver-dike with a forked head, shews the principal town of this Province, and the Metropolis of Dimetia, seated on a rocky oblong Promontory, in the most pleasant Country of all Wales, call'd by the Britains Penvro, which signifies the Cape or Sea-Promontory, and thence in English, Penbroke. Arnulph de Montgomery, brother to Robert Earl of Shrewsbury, built this Castle in the time of King Henry the first, but very meanly with Stakes only and green Turf. Which upon his return afterwards into England, he deliver'd to Girald of Windsor, a prudent man, his Constable and Lieutenant General, who with a small Garison was presently besieged therein, by all the Forces of South-Wales. But Giraldus and his party made such resistance (tho' more with courage than strength) that they were forced to retire without success. Afterward, this Giraldus fortified both the Town and Castle; from whence he annoy'd the neighbouring Countries a great way round. And for the better settlement of himself and his friends in this Country, he married Nest, the sister of Prince Gryffydh, by whom he had a noble Off-spring; by whose means (saith Giraldus, who was descended from him) not only the Maritime parts of South-Wales were retain'd by the English, but also the Walls of Ireland reduced. Origin of the Giralds in Ireland. For all those noble Families in Ireland call'd Giralds, Giraldines, and Fitz-Giralds, are descended from him. In regard of the Tenure of this Castle and Town, and the Castle and Town of Tinbigh,Rotulus Servitiorum. of the Grange of King's-Wood, the Commot of Croytarath and Manour of Castle-Martin and Tregoir, Reginald Grey at the Coronation of Henry the fourth, claim'd the honour of bearing the second Sword, but all in vain; for 'twas answerd, that at that time those Castles and Farms were in the King's hands, as also at this day the Town of Pembroke, which is a Corporation, and is govern'd by a Mayor and two Bayliffs.
On another Bay of this Haven we find Carew-Castle, Carew-castle. which gave both name and original to the illustrious Family of Carew, who affirm themselves to have been call'd at first de Montgomery, and that they are descended from that Arnulph de Montgomery already mention'd.
Two Rivers are discharg'd into this Haven, almost in the same Chanel, call'd in the British tongue Cledheu, Cledheu. which in English signifies a Sword, whence they call it Aber-dau-Gledheu, i.e. the Haven of two Swords. Hard by the more easterly of them, standeth Slebach, once a Commandery of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, which, with other Lands, Wizo and his son Walter setled upon that holy Order; that they might serve as the Champions of Christ, in order to recover the Holy-Land.
That part of the Country which lies beyond the Haven, and is water'd only with these two rivers, is call'd by the Britains Rhos; a name deriv'd from the situation of it, for that it is a large green plain. This part is inhabited by Flemings, Flemings when seated in Wales. who settled here by the permission of King Henry the first; when as the [Page 631-632] Sea, making breaches in their fences, had drown'd a considerable part of the Low-Countreys. They are at this day distinguish'd from the Welsh by their speech and customs: and they speak a language so agreeable with the English (which indeed has much affinity with Dutch) that this small Country of theirs is call'd by the Britains Little England beyond Wales. Little England beyond Wales. This (saith Giraldus) is a stout and resolute Nation, and very offensive to the Welsh by their frequent skirmishes: a people much inured to cloathing and merchandize, and ready to increase their stock at any labour or hazard, by sea and land. A most puissant Nation, and equally prepared, as time and place shall require, either for the sword or plow. And that I may add also this one thing, a Nation most devoted to the Kings of England, and faithful to the English; and which, in the time of Giraldus, understood Soothsaying, or the inspection of the Entrails of beasts, even to admiration. Moreover, the Flemings-way, which was a work of theirs, (as they are a Nation exceeding industrious,) is seen here extended through a long tract of ground. The Welsh endeavouring to regain their old country, have often set upon these Flemings with all their power, and have ravag'd and spoil d their borders; but they always with a ready courage defended their lives, their fortunes, and reputation [a]. Whence William of Malmesbury writes thus of them, and of William Rufus; William Rufus had generally but ill fortune against the Welsh; which one may well wonder at, seeing all his attempts elsewhere prov'd successful. But I am of opinion, that as the unevenness of their country and severity of the weather favour'd their rebellion, so it hinder'd his progress. But King Henry, that now reigns, a man of excellent wisdom, found out an art to frustrate all their inventions, by planting Flemings in their country, to curb and continually harass them. And again in the fifth book; King Henry often endeavour'd to reduce the Welsh, who were always prone to rebellion: at last very advisedly, in order to abate their pride, he transplanted thither all the Flemings that liv'd in England. For at that time there were many of them come over on account of their relation to his mother, by her father's side; insomuch that they were burdensome to the Kingdom: wherefore he thrust them all into Ros, a Province of Wales, as into a common shore, as well to rid the Kingdom of them, as to curb the obstinacy of his enemies.
On the more westerly of these two rivers call'd Cledheu, in a very uneven situation, lies Haverford; Haverford-west. call'd by the Britains Hwlfordh: a town of good account, as well for it s neatness as number of inhabitants3. This is a County of it self, and is govern'd by a Mayor, a Sheriff, and two Bayliffs. It is reported, th t the Earls of Clare fortify'd it on the no [...]th-side with walls and a rampire; and we have it r [...]corded, that Richard Earl of Clare made Richard Fitz-Tankred Governour of this castle.
Beyond Ros, we have a spacious Promontory, extended far into the Irish sea; call'd by Ptolemy Octopitarum, Octopitarum. by the Britains Pebidiog and Kantrev Dewi, and in English St. David's Land. St. David'-land. A Land (saith Giraldus) both rocky and barren, neither clad with trees, nor distinguish'd with rivers, nor adorn'd with meadows; but expos'd continually to the winds and storms: however the retiring place and nursery of several Saints. For Calphurnius a British Priest, (as some have written, I know not how truly) begat here, in the vale of Rhôs, St. Patrick St. Patrick. the Apostle of Ireland, on his wife Concha, sister of St. Martin of Tours. And Dewi, a most Religious Bishop, translated the Archiepiscopal seat from Kaer-Leion to the utmost corner of this place, viz. Menew [b] or Menevia, which from him was afterwards call'd by the Britains Ty Dewi i.e. David's House; by the Saxons Dauyd-Mynster, and by our modern English St. David's. St. David's For a long time it had its Archbishops; but the plague raging very much in this Country, the Pall was translated to Dôll in Little Britain, which was the end of this Archiepiscopal dignity. Notwithstanding which, in the later ages, the Britains commenc'd an Action on that account, against the Archbishop of Canterbury, Metropolitan of England and Wales; but were cast. What kind of place this St. David's was heretofore, is hard to guess, seeing it has been so often sack'd by Pirates: at present it is a very mean city, and shews only a fair Church consecrated to St. Andrew and St. David. Which having been often demolish'd; was built in that form we now see it, in the reign of King John, by Peter then Bishop thereof and his successors, in the Vale (as they call it) of Rhôs, under the town. Not far from it is the Bishop's palace, and very fair houses, of the Chanter (who is chief next the Bishop, for here is no Dean) the Chancellour, the Treasurer, and four Archdeacons, who are of the Canons (whereof there are4 twenty one,) all inclosed with a strong and stately wall5.
This Promontory is so far extended westward, that in a clear day we may see Ireland: and from hence is the shortest passage into it; which Pliny erroneously computed to be thirty miles distant from the Country of the Silures; for he thought their country had extended thus far. But we may gather from these words of Giraldus, that this Cape was once extended farther into the sea; and that the form of the Promontory has been alter'd. At such time as Henry 2. (saith he) was in Ireland, Tru [...]i [...] St [...]n [...] trees [...] sea. by reason of an extraordinary violence of storms, the sandy shores of this coast were laid bare, and that face of the land appear'd which had been cover'd for many ages. Also the Trunks of trees which had been cut down, standing in the midst of the sea, with the strokes of the axe as fresh as if they had been yesterday: with very black earth, and several old blocks like Ebony. So that now it did not appear like the sea-shore, but rather resembl'd a grove, by a miraculous Metamorphosis, perhaps ever since the time of the Deluge, or else long after, at leastwise very anciently, as well cut down, as consumed and swallowed up by degrees, by the violence of the sea, continually encroaching upon, and washing off the land [c]. And that saying of William Rufus shews that the lands were not here disjoyn'd by any great sea; who when he beheld Ireland from these rocks, said, He could easily make a bridge of ships, whereby he might walk from England into that Kingdom.
There are excellent and noble Falcons Falcons that breed in these rocks, which our King Henry 2. (as the same Giraldus informs us) was wont to prefer to all others. For (unless I am deceiv'd by some of that neighbourhood) they are of that kind which they call Peregrins. For according to the account they give of them, I need not use other words to describe them, than these verses of that excellent Poet of our age, Augustus Thuanus Esmerius, in that golden book he entitles Hieracosophion:
The sea now with great violence assails the land, receding from this Promontory; which is a small region call'd the Lordship of Kemaes. B [...] [...] K [...] F [...]. The chief place in it is Fiscard, seated on a steep rock, and having a convenient harbour for shipping: so call'd by the English from a Fishery there; and by the Britains Aber-Gwain, which signifies the mouth of the river Gwain. The next is Newport Ne [...]p [...]. * on the river Nevern, call'd in British Trevdraeth, which signifies the town on the sand 6. This was built by Martin of Tours, whose posterity made it a corporation, granted it several privileges, and constituted therein a Portrieve and Bayliff; and also built themselves a Castle above the town, which was their chief seat. They also founded the Monastery of St. Dogmael St. Dogmael, b [...] St. Teg [...] 7 on the bank of the river Teivi, in a Vale encompass'd with hills, from which the village adjoyning (as many other towns from Monasteries) took it's beginning. This Barony was first wrested out of the hands of the Welsh by Martin of Tours, Lords [...]f Kema [...]. The fa [...] i [...] of the M [...] tin [...]. from whose posterity (who were from him call'd Martins) it descended [Page 633-634] by marriage to the Barons de Audeley. They held it a long time, until the reign of King Henry 8. when William Owen, descended from a daughter of Sir Nicholas Martin, after a tedious suit at law for his right, at last obtain'd it, and left it to his son George; who, (being an exquisite Antiquary) has inform'd me, that there are in this Barony, besides the three Burrows, (Newport, Fishgard, and St. Dogmael) 20 Knights-fees and 26 Parishes.
More inward on the river Teivi already mention'd, lies Kil Garan; [...] Garan. which shews the ruins of a Castle built by Giraldus. But now being reduc'd to one street, it's famous for no other thing than a plentiful Salmon Fishery. For there is a very famous Salmon-Leap [...]e Sal [...] [...]eap. where the river falls headlong; and the Salmons making up from the sea towards the Shallows of the river, when they come to this cataract bend their tails to their mouths; nay sometimes, that they may leap with greater force, hold it in their teeth; and then upon disengaging themselves from their circle, with a certain violence, as when a stick that's bent is reflected, they cast themselves from the water up to a great height, even to the admiration of the spectators: which Ausonius thus describes very elegantly:
There have been divers Earls of Penbroke [...]rls of [...]nbr [...]ke. descended from several families. As for Arnulph of Montgomery, who first conquer'd it, and was afterwards out-law'd; and his Castellan Girald [of Windsor] whom King Henry 1. made afterwards President over the whole country; I can scarce affirm that they were Earls. King Stephen first conferr'd the title of Earl of Pembroke upon Gilbert Strongbow son of Gislebert de Clare. He left it to his son Richard Strongbow, the Conquerour of Ireland; who was (as Giraldus has it) à Clara Clarensium familia oriundus, descended from the famous family of the Clares. Isabella the only daughter of this Earl, brought this title to her husband William Marshal (so call'd for that his Ancestors had been hereditary Marshals of the King's palace) a very accomplish'd person, well instructed in the arts of peace and war. Of whom we find this Epitaph in Rudburn's Annals:
After him his five sons were successively Earls of Pembroke; viz. William, call'd the younger; Richard, who having rebell'd against Henry 3. fled into Ireland, where he died in battel; Gilbert, who at a tournament in War was unhors'd, and so kill'd; and Walter and Anselm 8. All these dying in a short space without issue; King Henry 3. invested with the honour of this Earldom William de Valentia, of the family of Lusignia in Poictiers, who was his own brother by the mother's side; and marry'd Joan, the daughter of Gwarin de Mont Chensey by a daughter of William Marshal. To William de Valentia succeeded his son Audomar, who was Governour of Scotland under K. Edw. 1. His9 second sister and coheiress Elizabeth, being marry'd to John Lord Hastings, brought this title into a new family. For Lawrence Hastings his grandchild by a son,10 who was Lord of Abergavenny, was made E. of Penbroke by a Rescript of K. Edward 3. a copy whereof it may not be amiss to subjoyn here, that we may see what right there was by heirs-female in these honorary titles. Rex omnibus ad quos, &c. salutem. Know ye, that the good presage of wisdom and virtue, which we have conceiv'd by the towardly youth and happy beginnings of our most well beloved Cousin Lawrence Hastings, deservedly induce us to countenance him with our especial grace and favour, in those things which concern the due preservation and maintenance of his honour. Whereas therefore, the inheritance of Aimar of Valence, sometime Earl of Penbroke, deceas'd long since without heir begotten of his body, hath been devolv'd upon his sisters, proportionably to be divided among them and their heirs: because we know for certain, that the foresaid Lawrence, who succeedeth the said Aimar in part of the inheritance, is descended from the eldest sister of Aimar aforesaid, and so by the avouching of the learned, whom we consulted about this matter, the Prerogative both of name and honour is due unto him. We deem it just and due, that the same Lawrence claiming his title from the elder sister, assume and have the name of Earl of Penbroke, which the said Aimar had whilst he liv'd. Which, as much as lyeth in us, we confirm, ratifie, and also approve unto him: willing and granting, that the said Lawrence have and hold the Prerogative and honour of Earl-Palatine in those lands which he holdeth of the said Aimar's inheritance; so fully and after the same manner as the same Aimar had and held them, at the time of his death, &c. Witness the King at Montmartin, the 13th day of October, and the 13th year of his reign.
This Lawrence Hastings was succeeded by his son John, who being taken by the Spaniards in a sea-fight, and afterwards redeem'd, died in France in the year 1375. To him succeeded his son John, who was kill'd in a Tournament at Woodstock Anno 1391.11. And it was observ'd of this family (I know not by what fate) that no father ever saw his son for five generations. He leaving no issue, several considerable Revenues devolv'd to the Crown: and the Castle of Penbroke was granted to Francis At-court, a courtier of that time in great favour; who upon that account was commonly call'd Lord of Penbroke. 12 And not long after, John Duke of Bedford, and after him his brother Humfrey Duke of Glocester, the sons of K. Hen. 4. obtain'd the same title. After that, William de la Pole was made Marquis of Penbroke; upon whose decease K. Hen. 6. created Jasper de Hatfield his brother by the mother's side, Earl of Penbroke; who being afterwards divested of all honours by K. Hen. 4. was succeeded by13 William Herbert, who was kill'd in the battel at Banbury. To him succeeded a son of the same name, whom Edw. 4. having recover'd his Kingdom, created Earl of Huntingdon, conferring the title of Earl of Penbroke, on his eldest son Edward Prince of Wales. A long time after that, King Hen. 8. entitled Anne of Bullen, (whom he had betrothed) Marchioness of Penbroke14. At last King Edw. 6. in our memory, invested15 William Herbert, Lord of Caer-Diff, with the same title. He was succeeded by his son Henry, who was President of Wales under Queen Elizabeth. And now his son William, a person in all respects most accomplish'd, enjoys that honour.Origin of the Herberts. This family of the Herberts is very noble and ancient in these parts of Wales. For they derive their pedigree from Henry Fitz-Herbert, Chamberlain to K. Hen. 1. who marry'd that King'sAmasiam. Concubine, Reginald Earl of Cornwal's mother, as I am inform'd by Mr. Robert Glover, a person of great insight in Genealogies; by whose untimely decease, Genealogical Antiquities have suffer'd extreamly.
Parishes in this County 145.
ADDITIONS to PENBROKSHIRE.
[a] THAT our Author hath justly represented the Flemings to be a warlike and industrious Nation, is very evident, as well from the account we have of them in History, as that they have maintain'd their Territories to be distinguishable from the Welsh even to this day. But that all Wales with united Forces, hath several times invaded their Country, and that without success, seems a more honourable character of them, than we find in other Historians. I shall therefore transcribe what Dr. Powel hath deliver'd upon this occasion, in hisp. 277. History of Wales.
In the year 1217. Prince Lhewelyn ap Gorwerth marched to Dyved, and being at Kevn Kynwarchan, the Flemings sent to him to desire a peace; but the Prince would not grant them their request. Then young Rŷs was the first that pass'd the river Kledheu, to fight with those of the town [of Haverford:] whereupon Gorwerth Bishop of St. Davids, with all his Clergy, came to the Prince, to intercede for peace in behalf of the Flemings, which after long debating was thus concluded.
First, That all the Inhabitants of Ros, and the Land of Penbroke should become the Prince's subjects, and ever from thence-forth take him for their liege Lord.
Secondly, That they should pay him 1000 Marks toward his charges, before Michaelmas next coming.
Thirdly, That for the performance of these, they should deliver forthwith to the Prince twenty Pledges of the best in all the Country, &c.
—And again, p. 279.
In the year 1220. Lhewelyn Prince of Wales led an Army to Penbroke against the Flemings, who contrary to their Oath and League had taken the Castle of Aber Teivi, which Castle the Prince destroy'd, putting the Garison to the sword, ras'd the Castle, and went thence to the Land of Gwys, where he ras'd that Castle, and burn'd the Town. Also he caus'd all Haverford to be burn'd to the Castle-gates, and destroy'd all Ros and Daugledhau; and they that kept the Castle sent to him for Truce till May, which was concluded upon Conditions, and so he return'd home.
[b] As to the ancient name of S. Davids, there is not far from it a place at this day call'd Melin Meneu; wherein is preserv'd the old denomination. But the original signification of the word Meneu is now lost, and perhaps not to be retriev'd. However, I would recommend it to the curious in Ireland and Scotland (where the names of places agree much with those in Wales) to consider whether it may not signifie a Frith or narrow Sea; for we find the Chanel betwixt Caernarvonshire and the Isle of Anglesey to be call'd Abermeneu; and that there is here also a small Fretum, call'd the Sound, betwixt this place and the Isle of Ramsey; and another place call'd Meney, by a Frith in Scotland, in the County of Buquhan.
[c] Besides the instance of the Sea-sands being washt off, we find the same to have happen'd about the year 1590. For Mr. George Owen, who liv'd at that time, and is mention'd by our Author as a learned and ingenious person, gives us the following account of it in a Manuscript History of this County.
About twelve or thirteen years since, it happen'd that the Sea-sands at Newgal, which are cover'd every tide, were by some extraordinary violence of the Waves so washed off, that there appeared stocks of Trees, doubtless in their native places; for they retain'd manifest signs of the stroaks of the ax, at the falling of them. The Sands being washed off, in the winter, these Buts remain'd to be seen all the summer following, but the next year the same were cover'd again with the Sands. By this it appeareth that the Sea in that place hath intruded upon the Land. Moreover, I have been told by the neighbours of Coed Traeth near Tenby, that the like hath been seen also upon those Sands, &c. To this an ingenious and inquisitive Gentleman of this Country, adds, that the same hath been observ'd of late years near Capel Stinan or St. Justinian's; where were seen not only the roots or stocks of Trees, but also divers pieces of squar'd timber. As for roots or stumps, I have often observ'd them my self at a low ebb, in the Sands betwixt Borth and Aber Divy in Cardiganshire; but remember nothing of any impression of the Axe on them; but on the contrary, that many of them, if not all, were very smooth; and that they appear'd, as to substance, more like the cole-black Peat or Fuel-turf, than Timber.
¶ There are in this County several such circular stone Monuments, as that describ'd in Caer-Mardhinshire by the name of Meineu gŵyr, and Karn Lhechart in Glamorgan. But the most remarkable is that call'd y Gromlech, Y G [...]mlech near Pentre Evan in Nevern-parish, where there are several rude stones pitch'd on end in a circular order; and in the midst of the circle a vast rude stone placed on several pillars. The diameter of the Area is about fifty foot. The stone supported in the midst of this circle is 18 foot long, and 9 in breadth; and at the one end it's about three foot thick, but thinner at the other. There lies also by it a piece broken off, about ten foot long, and five in breadth, which seems more than twenty Oxen can draw. It's supported by three large rude Pillars, about eight foot high; but there are also five others, which are of no use at present, as not being high enough, or duly placed to bear any weight of the top-stone. Under this stone, the ground is neatly flag'd, considering the rudeness of Monuments of this kind. I can say nothing of the number and height of the stones in the circle, not having seen this Monument my self, but given this account of it out of Mr. George Owen's Manuscript History above-mention'd, which was communicated to me by the worshipful John Lewis of Manour Nowen Esq. And I have also receiv'd a description of it from a person, who at my request lately view'd it, not differing materially from that we find in the Manuscript. The name of this Monument seems much of the same signification with Meineu gŵyr, for Krwm (in the Feminine gender Krom) signifies as well as gŵyr, crooked or bending; and Lhêch a stone of a flat form, more or less, whether natural or artificial. And as we have observ'd another Monument in Caernarvonshire, call'd Lhech or Maen gŵyr, so we meet with several in Anglesey, and some in other parts of Wales call'd Kromlecheu. Now that these Monuments have acquired this name from bowing, as having been places of worship in the time of Idolatry, I have no warrant to affirm. However, in order to farther enquiry, we may take notice, that the Irish Historians call one of their chiefest Idols Cromcruach; O Fla [...]e [...] ty's Ogygia, p. 1 [...] &c. which remain'd till St. Patrick's time in the plain of Moy-sleuct in Brefin. This Idol is describ'd to have been auro & argento caelatum, and said to be attended with twelve other Idols much less, all of brass, plac'd round about him. Cromcruach, at the approach of St. Patrick, fell to the ground, and the lesser Idols sunk into the Earth up to their necks: the heads whereof (says one of the Authors of the life of St. Patrick cited by Colganus) are in perpetual memory of this miracle, still prominent out of the ground, and to be seen at this day. Now although we should question the authority of this Writer, as to these miracles; yet if we may be allow'd to make any use at all of such Histories, we may from hence infer that this circle of stones (which are here mention'd by the name of Idol's heads) was before the planting of Christianity in this Country, a place of Idolatrous worship. And if that be granted, we shall have little reason to doubt but that our Kromlech, as well as all other such circular Stone-monuments in Britain and Ireland (whereof I presume there are not less than 100 yet remaining) were also erected for the same use. But to proceed farther; this relation of idolatrous worship at Crumcruach, seems much confirm'd by the general Tradition concerning such Monuments in Scotland. For upon perusal of some Letters on this subject, from the learned and judicious Dr. James [Page] Garden, Professor of Divinity at Aberdeen, to an ingenious Gentleman of the Royal Society *, [...] A [...] [...] [...]f Ea [...] Pierce [...]ile [...] E [...]q. (who, for what I can learn, was the first that suspected these Circles for Temples of the Druids) I find that in several parts of that Kingdom, they are call'd Chapels and Temples; with this farther Tradition, that they were places of worship in the time of Heathenism, and did belong to the Drounich. Which word some interpret the Picts; but the Dr. suspects it might denote originally the Druids: in confirmation whereof, I add, that a village in Anglesey is calld'd Tre'r Driw, and interpreted the Town of the Druid. Now the diminutive of Driw must be Driwin (whence perhaps Kaer Drewin in Merionydhshire) and ch is well known to be an usual Irish termination in such Nouns.
As for such as contend that all Monuments of this kind, were erected by the Danes, as Trophies, Seats of Judicature, places for electing their Kings, &c. they'l want History to prove, that ever the Danes had any Dominion, or indeed the least Settlement in Wales or the High-lands of Scotland; where yet such Monuments are as frequent, if not more common, than in other places of Britain. For although we find it registred that they have several times committed depredations on our Sea-coasts, destroying some Maritime places in the Counties of Glamorgan, Pembroke, Cardigan, and Anglesey; and sometimes also making excursions into the Country: yet we read they made no longer stay than whilst they plunder'd the Religious Houses, and extorted money and provisions from the people. Now if it be demanded, why they might not in that short stay, erect these Monuments; I have nothing to answer, but that such vast perennial memorials, seem rather to be the work of a people settled in their Country, than of such roving Pirats, who for their own security must be continually on their guard, and consequently have but small leisure or reason for erecting such lasting Monuments. And that we find also these Monuments in the Mountains of Caernarvonshire, and divers other places, where no History does inform us, nor conjecture suggest, that ever the Danes have been. To which may be added, that if we compare strictly the descriptions of the Danish and Swedish Monuments in Saxo Grammaticus, Wormius, and Rudbeckius, with ours in Britain, we shall find considerable difference in the order or structure of them. For (if we may place that here) I find none of them comparable to that magnificent, tho' barbarous Monument, on Salisbury Plain; nor any that has such a table in the midst, as the Kromlech here described; whereas several of ours in Wales have it, though it be usually much less; and very often this Table or a Kist-vaen is found without any circle of stones, and sometimes on the contrary circles of stones without any Kist-vaen or other stone in the midst. But this we need not so much insist upon; for tho' they should agree exactly, yet are we not therefore oblig'd to acknowledge our Monuments were erected by the Danes. For as one Nation since the planting of Christianity hath imitated another, in their Churches, Chapels, Sepulchral Monuments, &c. so also in the time of Paganism, the Rites and Customs in Religion must have been deriv'd from one Country to another. And I think it probable, should we make diligent enquiry, that there may be Monuments of this kind still extant in the less frequented places of Germany, France, and Spain; if not also in Italy. But I fear I have too long detain'd the Reader with probabilities, and shall therefore only add, that whatever else hath been the use of these Monuments, its very evident they have been (some of them at least) us'd as burial places; seeing Mr. Aubrey in that part of his Monumenta Britannica he entitles Templa Druidum, gives us some instances of human Skeletons, found on the outside of one or two of them in Wiltshire. And Dr. Garden in his foremention'd Letters, affirms that some persons yet living have dug ashes out of the bottom of a little circle (set about with stones standing close together) in the center of one of those Monuments near the Church of Keig in the shire of Aberdeen; and adds farther, that in the shire of Inverness, and parish of Enner Allen, there is one of these Monuments, call'd the Chapel of Tilligorum, aliàs Capel Mac-mulach, which is full of Graves, and was within the memory of some living an ordinary place of burial, at least for poor people, and continues to be so at this day for strangers, and children that dye without baptism.
We have not room here to take notice of the other Monuments of this kind, which this County affords; and shall therefore only observe, that in Newport-parish there are five of these Tables or Altars (that we may distinguish them by some name) placed near each other, which some conjecture to have been once encompass'd with a circle of Stone-pillars, for that there are two stones yet standing near them. But these are nothing comparable in bigness to the Gromlech here describ'd, and not rais'd above three foot high; nor are they supported with pillars, but stones placed edgewise; and so are rather of that kind of Monuments we call Kistieu-maen or Stone-chests, than Krom-lecheu.
I had almost forgot to acquaint the Reader, that there is also in Nevern-parish, besides the Gromlech, another Monument call'd commonly Lhech y Drybedh (i.e. Tripodium) and by some the Altar-stone. It's somewhat of an oval form, and about twelve yards in circumference, placed on four stones (whereof one is useless as not touching it) scarce two foot high. At the South-end, 'tis about four foot and a half in thickness, but sensibly thinner to the other end, where it exceeds not four inches; at which end there is cut such a Ductus or Conveyance, as might serve to carry off any liquid that should run down, but to what purpose it was design'd, I shall not pretend to conjecture.
Y maen sigl, Y maen Sigl. or the Rocking-stone, deserves also to be mention'd here; altho' (having never seen it my self) I am not fully satisfied, whether it be a Monument, or as Mr. Owen seems to suppose, purely accidental. But by the account I hear of it, I suspect it rather an effect of human industry, than chance. This shaking stone (says he) may be seen on a Sea-cliff within half a mile of St. David's; it's so vast, that I presume it may exceed the draught of an hundred Oxen; and altogether rude and unpolished. The occasion of the name is, for that being mounted upon divers other stones, about a yard in height; it's so equally poys'd, that a man may shake it with one finger, so that five or six men sitting on it, shall perceive themselves mov'd thereby. But I am inform'd, that since this worthy Gentleman writ the History of this Country, (viz. in the late Civil wars) some of the Rebel-souldiers looking upon it as a thing much noted, and therefore superstitious; did with some difficulty so alter its position, as to render it almost immoveable. There is also a Rocking-stone in Ireland in the County of Dunegall, and Parish of Clunmany, no less remarkable than this, call'd by the vulgar Magarl Fhin mhic Cuill, which is describ'd to be of a vast bigness, and somewhat of a pyramidal form, placed on a flat stone, the small end downward, but whether by accident or human industry, I must leave to further enquiry.
In the Church-yard at Nevern Nevern. on the North-side, I observ'd a rude stone pitch'd on end, about two yards in height, of a triquetrous form, with another smaller angle; having on the South-side this Inscription, which seems older than the foundation of the Church, and was perhaps the Epitaph of a Roman Souldier: for I guess it must be read Vitelliani Emeriti.
In the same Church-yard, on the South-side, is erected a very handsom pillar, as the shaft or pedestal of a Cross. It is of a quadrangular form, about two foot broad, eighteen inches thick, and thirteen foot high; neatly carv'd on all sides with certain endless knots, which are about one and thirty in [Page] number, and all different sorts. The top is cover'd with a cross stone, below which there is a Cross carv'd on the East and West sides, and about the midst these Letters:
which perhaps are no other than the initial letters of the names of those persons that erected this Cross. But whatever they may signifie, the second character is such as I have not met with elsewhere, and therefore thought worth the publishing.
There is also an Inscription within this Church, which to me is equally obscure, and seems more like Greek than Roman Characters; whereof the following Copy was sent me by Mr. William Gambold of Exeter-College, Oxon, who, I presume, hath transcrib'd it with due exactness.
The stone is pitch'd on end, not two foot high, and is round at top (about which these Letters are cut) like the Monument describ'd at Mynydh Gelhi Onnen in Glamorganshire.
I received also from the same hand the following Inscription, copied from a Stone amongst the ruins of the Abbey of St. Dogmael; which he describes to be seven foot in length, two in breadth, and six inches thick.
The latter of these words [Cunotami] I take to be a British name, and the same with what we call Kynèdha or Kynèdhav; but the former is a name I cannot parallel with any now us'd, or extant in our Genealogical Manuscripts. In this County there are divers ancient Tumuli, or artificial Mounts for Urnburial, whereof the most notable I have seen, are those four call'd Krìgeu Kèmaes, or the Barrows of Kemaes. One of which, a Gentleman of the neighbourhoodMr. Lloyd of Kwm Gloin., out of curiosity, and for the satisfaction of some f [...]iends, caus'd lately to be dug; and discover'd therein five Urns, which contain'd a considerable quantity of burnt bones and ashes. One of these, together with the bones and ashes it contain'd, was lately presented to the Ashmolean Repository at Oxford, by the worshipful John Philips of Dôl Haidh, Esquire. I shall not pretend to determine what Nation these Barrows did belong to; tho' from the rudeness of the Urns, as well in respect of matter as fashion, some might suspect them rather Barbarous than Roman. But we know not how unskilful some Artists amongst the Romans might be, especially in these remote parts of the Province, where probably not many of them, besides military persons, ever settled. Another Urn was found not many years since, in a Barrow in the Parish of Melineu, and one very lately on a Mountain not far from Kil Rhedyn.
But seeing our Author confines himself not always to Antiquities and Civil History, but sometimes for the Reader's diversion, takes notice likewise of such occurrences in Natural History, as seem'd more especially remarkable; I hope it may be excusable if I add also some observations in that kind: and shall therefore communicate part of a Letter from my ingenious Friend, the Reverend Mr. Nicholas Roberts A. M. Rector of Lhan Dhewi Velfrey, which contains an account of some migratory Sea-birds that breed in the Isle of Ramsey, with some other relations that seem remarkable.
Over against Justinian's Chapel, separated from it by a narrow Fretum, is Ramsey-Island,Ramsey-I [...]an [...] (call'd formerly Ynis Devanog from a Chapel [...] there dedicated to that Saint, now swallow'd up by the sea) which seems by the proverb [Stinan a Devanog dau anwyl gymydog] to have been once part of the Continent, if I may properly call our Country so, when I speak of such small Insulets. In it there is a small promontory or neck of land, issuing into the sea, which is call'd Ynis yr hyrdhodId e [...]t, Ra [...] I [...]., whence I presume the name of Ramsey. To this Island, and some rocks adjoyning, call d by the sea-men The Bishop and his Clerks, do yearly resort about the beginning of April such a number of birds of several sorts, that none but such as have been eye-witnesses can be prevail'd upon to believe it; all which after breeding here, leave us before August. They come to these rocks, and also leave them, constantly in the night-time: for in the evening the rocks shall be cover'd with them, and the next morning not a bird to be seen; so in the evening not a bird shall appear, and the next morning the rocks shall be full. They also visit us commonly about Christmas, and stay a week or more, and then take their leave till breeding-time. Three sorts of these migratory birds are call'd in Welsh, Mora, Poeth-wy, and Pâl; in English, Eligug, Razorbil, and Puffin; to which we may also add the Harry-bird; tho' I cannot at present assure you, whether this bird comes and goes off with the rest.
The Le [...] H [...] [...] Epi t [...] C [...]u [...] In Co [...] 'tis [...] K [...] an [...] [...] Yo [...] a S [...] Wil [...] by's O [...] th [...]log [...] pag. 32 Eligug lays but one egg; which (as well as those of the Puffin and Razorbil) is as big as a Duck's, but longer, and smaller at one end. From this egg she never parts (unless forced) till she hatches it, nor then till the young one be able to follow her; being all the while fed by the male. This and the RazorbilA [...]k [...] Hoier [...] Epist. [...] Clu [...] Mu [...]e [...] nui [...] W [...] p breed upon the bare rocks, making no manner of nest; and sometimes in such a place, that being frighten'd thence, the egg or young one (which before was upheld by the breast, upon a narrow shelving rock) tumbles into the sea. The PuffinAnas [...]tica [...] Frat [...] Ge [...] W [...]. p and Harry-birdThe Shear- [...] ter of [...] Th B [...] Wil. p. Tab. [...] breed in holes, either those of Rabbets (wherewith Ramsey is abundantly furnish'd, all black) or such as they dig with their beaks. The Harry-birds are never seen on land but when taken; and the manner of taking these and the Puffins, is commonly by planting nets before their berries, wherein they soon entangle themselves. These four sorts cannot raise themselves upon the wing, from the land; but if at any distance from the cliffs, wadle (for they cannot be well said to go, their legs being too infirm for that use, and placed much more backward than a Duck's, so that they seem to stand upright) to some precipice, and thence cast themselves off, and take wing: but from the water they will raise to any height. The Puffin lays three white eggs; the rest but one, speckled, &c.
He adds much more, not only of the other birds that frequent these Rocks, but also gives a short account of several things remarkable in this County; but being confined within narrow limits, I shall only select two of them. The first is of a narrow deep pond, or rather pit, near the sea-side; and some Cliffs which by their noise presage storms, &c. whereof he gives the following relation.
Near Stack-pool Bosher, otherwise Bosherston, upon the sea-side, is a pool or pit call'd Bosherston-mear; the depth whereof, several that have sounded have not yet discover'd. This pit bubbles and foams, and makes such a noise before stormy weather, that it's heard above ten miles off. The banks are of no great circumference at the top, but broader downwards; and from the bottom, there's a great breach towards the sea, which is about a furlong distant. So that considering the bubling, and extraordinary noise this pit makes against stormy weather, I am apt to suspect it may have a subterraneous communication with the sea-water. But there's much more talk'd of this place than I shall trouble you with at present, because I take s [...]me relations of it for fabulous; and living remote from it my self, I have had no opportunities of being satisfied of the truth of others. It's noise is distinctly known from that of the sea; which also on these coasts often roars very loud. And the neighbouring inhabitants to the sea can give a shrewd guess what weather will ensue by the noise it makes. For when it proceeds from such a Creek or Haven, they will expect this or that sort of weather will follow. And by these Observations, I have been told the [Page] evening before, what weather we should have next day; which has happen'd very true; and that not once as by chance, but often.
The other is a sort of Food, made in several parts of this County, of a sea-plant, which by the description I hear of it, I take to be the Oyster-green or Sea-liverwort. This custom I find obtains also in Glamorganshire (where 'tis call'd Laverbread) and probably in several Counties of England.
Near St. David's (says he) especially at Eglwys Abernon, and in other places, they gather in the spring-time a kind of Alga or sea-weed, wherewith they make a sort of food call'd Lhavan or Lhawvan, in English Black butter. Having gather'd the weed, they wash it clean from sand and slime, and sweat it between two tile-stones; then shred it small, and knead it well, as they do dough for bread, and make it up into great balls or rolls, which some eat raw, and others fryed with oatmeal and butter. It's accounted sovereign against all distempers of the liver and spleen: and the late Dr. Owen assured me, that he found relief from it in the acutest fits of the stone.
Upon the death of William Herbert, Earls continued. the last Earl mention'd by our Author, the honour of Earl of Pembroke descended to Philip Herbert, who was also Earl of Montgomery, and was succeeded by Philip his son. After whose death, William his son and heir succeeded; and upon his death, Philip Herbert, half-brother to the last William. At present, Thomas of the same name enjoys the titles of Earl of Pembroke and Montgomery.
CARDIGANSHIRE.
THE shores being obliquely driven back towards the east, from Octopitarum or St. David's promontory, receive the sea into a vast bay, much of the form of a half-moon; on which lies the third Region of the Dimetae, call'd by the English Cardiganshire, in British Sir Aber Teivi, and by Latin Writers, Ceretica. If any suppose it denominated from King Caratacus, [...]g Cara [...]. his conjecture may seem to proceed rather from a fond opinion of his own, than any authority of the Ancients. And yet we read, that the same renowned Prince Caratacus rul'd in these parts. On the west, towards the sea, it is a champain country; as also to the south, where the river Teivi divides it from Caer-Mardhin-Shire. But towards the east and north, where it borders on Brecknock and Montgomeryshire, there is a continued ridge of mountains, but such as afford good pasturage for sheep and cattel; in the valleys whereof are spread several lakes or natural ponds. That this country was peopl'd formerly, not with cities but small cottages, may be gathered from that saying of their Prince Caratacus, who when he was a captive at Rome, having view'd the splendour and magnificence of that city, said; [...]ras. Seeing you have these and such like noble structures, why do you covet our small cottages? [a]. However, let us take a slight view of such places as are of any noted Antiquity.
[...] [...]er [...].The river Teivi, call'd by Ptolemy Tuerobius, corruptly for Dwr Teivi which signifies the Teivi water, springs out of the lake Lhyn Teivi, under the mountains already mention'd. At first, 'tis retarded by the rocks; and rumbling amongst the stones without any chanel, takes its course through a very stony country (near which the Mountaneers have at Ros a very great Fair [...] F [...]ir. for cattel) to Stratfleur, [...]r [...]r, [...]a f [...]o [...]. a Monastery heretofore of the Cluniack Monks, encompass'd on all sides with high mountains.
From hence, being receiv'd into a chanel, it runs by Tre' Gâron, [...]e' Gâ [...]n. [...] Phe [...]. and by Lhan Dhewi Brêvi, a Church dedicated to the memory of St. David Bishop of Menevia, and thence denominated. Where in a full Synod he confuted the Pelagian heresie, at that time reviving in Britain; and that not only out of sacred Scripture, but likewise by miracle: for 'tis reported, that the ground on which he stood preaching, mounted up to a hillock under his feet [b].
Thus far, and farther yet, the river Teivi runs southward to Lhàn-Bedr, [...]-Bedr. a small market-town. From whence directing it's course to the west, it makes a broader chanel, and falling over a steep precipice, a near Kil-Garan, [...]-Garan. makes that Salmon-Leap I have already mention'd in Penbrokeshire. For this river abounds with Salmon, and was formerly the only river in Britain (as Giraldus supposed) that bred Beavers. [...]vers. A Beaver is an amphibious animal, having it's fore-feet like a dog's, but footed behind like a goose; of a dark gray colour; and having an oblong flat cartilagineous tail, which, in swimming, it makes use of to steer it's course. Giraldus makes several remarks upon the subtilty of this creature; but at this time there are none of them found here [c].
Scarce two miles from this Kîl-Gâran, lies Cardigan; Cardigan. call'd by the Britains Aber Teivi, i.e. Teivi-mouth, the chief town of this County; fortified by Gilbert the son of Richard Clare: but being afterwards treasonably surrender'd, it was laid waste by Rhŷs ap Gryffydh, and the Governour Robert Fitz-Stephen, Fitz Steven. whom some call Stephanides, taken prisoner: who after he had remain'd a long time at the devotion of the offended Welsh, for his life, was at length releas'd; but compell'd to resign into their hands, all his possessions in Wales. Whereupon, he made a descent into Ireland, though with a small army, yet very successfully; and was the first of the Normans, who by his valour made way for the English-Conquest of that Kingdom.
From the mouth of Teivi, the shore, gradually retiring, is wash'd by several rivulets. Amongst them, that which Ptolemy calls Stuccia, Stuccia, or the river Ystwyth. at the upper end of the County, deserves our notice; the name whereof is still preserv'd by the common people, who call it Ystwyth. Near the source of this river, there are Leadmines [d]; and where it is discharged into the sea, is the most populous town of this whole County, call'd Aber-Ystwyth: which was also fortified with walls by the above-mention'd Gilbert Clare, and defended a long time by Walter Beck an Englishman, against the Welsh.
Not far from hence lies Lhan-Bàdarn-Vawr, i.e. Great St. Patern's, who (as we read in his life) was an Armorican, and govern'd the Church here by feeding, and fed it by governing. To whose memory a Church and Bishop's See was here consecrated: but the Bishoprick (as Roger Hoveden writes) fell to decay long since: for that the people had most barbarously slain their Pastor.
At the same place the river Rheidiol Rheidiol. also casts it self into the Ocean; having taken it's course from that very high and steep hill Plin-Lhymmon; which terminates the north part of the County, and pours forth, besides this, those two noble rivers we have already mention'd, Severn and Wye.
Not very far from Aber-ŷstwyth, the river Dŷvy, the boundary betwixt this County and Merionydhshire, is also discharg'd into the Ocean.
The Normans had scarce setled their conquest in Britain, when they assail'd this coast with a navy; and that with good success. For in the time of William Rufus they wrested the sea coasts, by degrees, out of the Welshmen's hands: but granted most part of it to Kadŵgan ap Blèdhyn, a most prudent Britain;Lords of Cardigan. a person of great interest throughout Wales, and at the same time in much favour with the English. But1265 [Page] his son Owen proving a rash young man, and a hater of Peace, and annoying the English and Flemmings, who had lately settled there, with continual excursions; the unhappy father was depriv'd of his Inheritance, and forced to suffer for the offences of his son, who was also himself constrain'd to leave his native Country, and to flee into Ireland. King Henry the first granted this County of Cardigan to Gilbert Clare, who planted Garisons therein, and fortified several Castles. But Kadŵgan, with his son Owen, being afterwards receiv'd into favour by the English, had all his Lands restored to him. Notwithstanding this, Owen returning again to his old Biass, and raising new Troubles, was slain by Girald of Penbroke, whose wife Nesta he had carried away. His father being carried prisoner into England, expected for a long time a better change of Fortune; and being at last in his old age restored to his own, was unexpectedly and on a sudden stab'd by his nephew Madok. After that, Roger de Clare receiv'd Cardiganshire, by the munificence of King Henry the second: but Richard Earl of Clare (his son, if I mistake not) being slain whilst he was coming hither by land; Rhŷs, Prince of South-Wales, having with his victorious Army made a great slaughter of the English, reduc'd it at last under his subjection. However, it fell afterwards by degrees, without any blood-shed, into the hands of the English.
It contains 64 Parish-Churches.
ADDITIONS to CARDIGANSHIRE.
[a] THat this Country was subject to King Caractacus, seems not evident from any place in Tacitus or other Author. For we find no mention of the names of those Countries under his Dominion, unless we may presume the Silures, his Subjects, from these words of Tacitus [Annal. Lib. XII.] Itum inde in Siluras, super propriam ferociam Caractaci viribus confisos: quem multa ambigua, multa prospera extulerant, ut caeteros Britannorum Imperatores praemineret, &c. Moreover, tho' we should grant him to have been King of the Dimetae, yet such as a [...]e concern'd for the ancient reputation of this Count [...]y, may fairly urge, that tho' they accept of the authority of Zonaras, who liv'd a thousand years after, yet nothing can be collected from that speech of Caractacus, that may prove this Count [...]y to have been more poorly inhabited in those times, than other Provinces, seeing he only speaks in general of the Countries in his Dominion, and that we find by his speech in Tacitus, that he was plurium Gentium Imperator, Prince or Soveraign of many Countries.
MS. of Mr. R. Vaughan of Hengwit.[b] The Synod for suppression of the Pelagian Heresie, was held about the year 522. For we find in some British Records, that St. Dubricius Arch-bishop of Caer-Lheion, having assisted at the Synod, and resign'd his Bishoprick to St. David, betook himself that year (together with most of the Clergy that had conven'd on that occasion) to a Monastery at Ynys Enlhi Bardsey Island., where being free from the noise of the world, they might with less interruption, devote the remainder of their lives to God's service. Of this retirement of St. Dubricius and his followers, mention is made also by an eminent PoetA [...] Gatr [...] [a [...] Gw [...] dru [...] Myc [...] B [...]irdh Anc [...] Satyr [...] King o [...] Bards of that age, in these words:
At this Church of Lhan Dhewi Brevi, I observ'd an ancient Inscription on a Tomb-stone, which is doubtless remov'd from the place where 'twas first laid, it being plac'd now above the Chancel door; but the Mason that laid it there, had so little regard to the Inscription, that two or three words are hid in the wall, which renders the Epitaph not wholly intelligible. However, it may not perhaps be amiss if we take notice of what remains of it in sight, seeing it's probably such an Epitaph as might become that martyr'd Bishop of Lhan-Badarn, who as Giraldus informs us, was barbarously murder'd by some profane Wretches of his Diocese. For I am apt to conjecture it may bear this sense; Hic jacet Idnert (aliàs Idnerth) filius I....... qui occisus fuit propter Pietatem & Sanctitatem. But I had rather such as have opportunity of doing it, would satisfie their curiosity, by causing some stones under it to be remov'd, and so reading the whole Inscription, than that they should rely on my conjecture.
There is also another old Inscription on a Stone erected by the Church door, on the out-side; which seems (as well as some others on Crosses) to consist wholly of Abbreviations. What it may import, I shall not pretend to explain; but shall add nevertheless a Copy of it, leaving the signification to the Reader's conjecture.
The Sexton of this place shew'd me a Rarity by the name of Matkorn yr ŷch bannog, or Matkorn ŷch Dewi; which he told me had been preserv'd there ever since the time of St. David, adding the fabulous tradition of the Oxen call'd Ychen bannog, which I shall not trouble the Reader with, as being no news to such as live in Wales, nor material information to others.
This Matkorn, however, seem'd to me a very remarkable curiosity. For if it be not really (as the name [Page] implies) the interiour horn of an Ox, it very much resembles it; and yet is so weighty that it seem'd absolutely petrified. It's full of large cells or holes, and the circumference of it at the root is about 17 inches.
Whilst I was copying the Inscriptions above-mention'd, a Country-man told me there was another at a house call'd Lhannio îsav, in this parish, distant about a mile from the Church. Being come thither, I found these two Inscriptions, and was inform'd that several others had been discover'd by digging, but that the stones were applied to some uses, and the Inscriptions not regarded.
[...]ga [...]ni [...]en [...].
The first I read Caij Artij Manibus [aut fortè memoriae] Ennius Primus. Another Roman Epitaph, circumscrib'd with lines, in the same manner as this is, may be seen in Reinesius. Synt. Inscr. Cl. 3. LXIV. The letter C. revers'd (as in the first place of this Inscription) denotes frequently Caia, but sometimes also Caius, as may be seen in the same Author, p. 722. ‘C SEMPRONIO, &c.’ This note or character [C] added to the first, fifth, sixth and last letters, is sometimes observ'd in other Roman Inscriptions ‖. [...] As for the second letter of this Inscription, we have frequent examples on stones and coyns, of that form of the letter A. In Reinesius p. 3. we find this Inscription: ‘HERCVLI. L. ARTIVS. &c.’ which that learned Critick directs us to read Herculi Lartius; but seeing we find here also the name of Artius, peradventure that correction was superfluous.
Besides Roman Inscriptions, they find here some times their coyns, and frequently dig up bricks and large free-stone neatly wrought. The place where these Antiquities are found, is call'd Kae'r Kestilh, which signifies Castle-Field, or to speak more distinctly, the Field of Castles; tho' at present there remains not above ground the least sign of any building: nor were there any (for what I could learn) within the memory of any person now living in the neighbourhood, or of their Fathers or Grandfathers. However, seeing it is thus call'd, and that it affords also such manifest tokens of its being once inhabited by the Romans, we have little or no reason to doubt, but that they had a Fort or Garison, if not a considerable Town at this place. And that being granted, it will also appear highly probable, that what we now call Lhannio, was the very same with that which Ptolemy places in the Country of the Dimetae, by the name of Lovantinum, or (as Mr. Camden reads it) Lovantium. If any shall urge, that to suppose it only a Castle, and not a City or Town of note, is to grant it not to have been the old Lovantium; I answer, that perhaps we do but commit a vulgar Error, when we take all the Stations in the Itinerary, and Burroughs of Ptolemy, for considerable Towns or Cities; it being not improbable, but that many of them might have been only Forts or Castles with the addition of a few Houses, as occasion requir'd.
[c] As to the Beavers, tho' we may not rely on the authority of Giraldus in many things he relates, (as one who writ in an age less cautious and accurate, and when nothing pleas'd so much as what excited the admiration of the Reader) yet in this case I see but litt [...]e reason to question his veracity. Moreover, that there were formerly Beavers in this Kingdom, seems much confirm'd; in that there are two or three Ponds or Lakes in Wales, well known at this day, by the name of Lhyn yr Avangk, i.e. Beaver-pool. The vulgar people of our age, scarce know what creature that Avangk was; and therefore some have been perswaded, that 'twas a Phantom or Apparition which heretofore haunted Lakes and Rivers. As for the name, I take it for granted that 'tis deriv'd from the word Avon, which signifies a River, and suppose it only an abbreviation of the word Avonog, i.e. Fluviatilis; as Lhwynog, [a Fox] signifies Sylvaticus, from Lhwyn, Sylva. And for the signification, 'tis not to be controverted; some old Poets so describing it, that I doubt not, but that they meant a Beaver.
Besides the Beaver, we have had formerly some oher Beasts in Wales, which have been long since totally destroy'd. As first, Wolves; concerning which we read in this Author, in Meirionydh-shire, as also in Derbyshire and Yorkshire. Secondly, Roe-Bucks, call'd in Welsh Iyrchod; which have given names to several places; as Bryn yr Iwrch, Phynon yr Iwrch, Lhwyn Iwrch, &c. Thirdly, The Wild-Boar, whereof mention is made by Dr. Davies, at the end of his Dictionary. And lastly, I have offer'd some arguments to prove also that Bears were heretofore natives of this Island, which may be seen in Mr. Ray's Synopsis Methodica Animalium quadrupedum, &c. p. 213.
[d] There have been, since our Author writ this History, several other Lead-Mines, discover'd in this part of the County; but the most considerable that has been found out in our time (either here, or in any other part of the Kingdom) is that of Bwlch yr Eskir hîr, discover'd Anno 1690. which was lately the possession of the right worshipful Sir Carbury Pryse of Gogerdhan, Baronet, who dying without issue, and the title being extinct, was succeeded in this estate of Gogerdhan, by the worshipful Edward Pryse, the son of Thomas Pryse of Lhan Vrêd, Esq who is the present Proprietor of these Mines. The Ore was here so nigh the surface of the Earth, that (as I have been credibly inform'd) the moss and grass did in some places but just cover it; which seems to add credit to that place of Pliny Nat. Hist. lib. 34. c. 17.—Nigro plumbo ad fistulas laminásque utimur, laboriosiùs in Hispania eruto: sed in Britanniâ summo terrae corio, adeo largè, ut lex ultro dicatur, ne plus certo modo fiat. But because there is a Map of these Leadmines, published by the Steward Mr. William Waller, together with a far better account of them than may be expected here, it seems needless to add any more on this subject.
¶ There are also in this Countrey, several such ancient Stone-monuments as we have observ'd in the preceding Counties, whereof I shall briefly mention such as I have seen, because they may differ in some respect from those already describ'd.
Lhêch yr Ast, in the parish of Lhan Goedmor, is a vast rude stone of about eight or nine yards in circumference, and at least half a yard thick. It is plac'd inclining, the one side of it on the ground, the other supported by a pillar of about three foot high. I have seen a Monument somewhat like this, near Lhan Edern in Glamorganshire, call'd also by a name of the same signification Glâl y Vilast, which affords no information to the curious, signifying only the Bitch-Kennel, because it might serve for such use. That Gwâl y Vilast, is such a rude stone as this, but much longer, and somewhat of an oval form, about four yards long, and two in breadth, supported at one end by a stone about two foot high, somewhat of the same form (tho' much more rude) as those we find at the head and feet of graves in Country Churches. There is also by this [Page] Lhêch yr âst, such another monument, but much less and lower; and five beds (such as we call Kistieu Maen, but not cover'd) scarce two yards long, of rude stones pitch'd in the ground; as likewise a circular area of the same kind of stones, the diameter whereof is about four yards; but most of the stones of this circle are now fallen: and about six yards from it, there lies a stone on the ground, and another beyond that, at the same distance, which doubtless belong to it.
Meineu hirion near Neuodh (the seat of the worshipful David Parry Esq the present High-Sheriff of Penbrokeshire) are perhaps some remaining pillars of such a circular stone-monument (though much larger) as that describ'd in Caer-Mardhin-shire, by the name of Meneu gŵyr.
Meineu Kyvrîvol (or the numerary stones) near the same place, seem to be also the remains of some such barbarous monument. They are 19 stones lying on the ground confusedly, and are therefore call'd Meineu Kyvrîvol by the vulgar, who cannot easily number them; whereof two only seem'd to have been pitch'd on end.
Lhêch y Gowres Id est, Saxum foeminae giganteae., (a monument well known also in this neighbourhood) seems much more worth our observation; being an exceeding vast stone, placed on four other very large pillars or supporters, about the height of five or six foot. Besides which four, there are two others pitch'd on end under the top-stone, but much lower, so that they bear no part of the weight. There are also three stones (two large ones, and behind those a lesser) lying on the ground at each end of this monument: and at some distance, another rude stone, which has probably some reference to it. This Lhêch y Gowres stands on such a small bank or rising, in a plain open field, as the five stones near the circular monument call'd Rolrich stones in Oxfordshire.
Hir-vaen gŵydhog Id est, Colossus conspicuus., is a remarkable pillar about 16 foot high, 3 foot broad, and 2 thick. It's erected on the top of a mountain, in the confines of the parishes of Kelhan and Lhan y Krŵys, and is at present (whatever it was put up for) the mere-stone or boundary betwixt this County and Caer-Mardhinshire. Not far from it, is Maen y prenvol, which I have not seen, but suppose from the name to be a monument of that kind we call Kistvaen; for Prenvol in this country (in North-Wales Prennol) signifies a small coffer or chest.
Gwely Taliesin, in the parish of Lhan-Vihangel geneu'r glyn, by its name, and the tradition of the neighbours concerning it, ought to be the grave of the celebrated Poet Taliesin ben beirdh, Id est, Taliesinus protovates. who flourish'd about the year 540. This grave or bed (for that's the signification of the word Gwely) seems also to be a sort of Kist-vaen, 4 foot long, and 3 in breadth; composed of 4 stones, 1 at each end, and 2 side-stones; whereof the highest is about a foot above ground. I take this, and all others of this kind, for old heathen monuments, and am far from believing that ever Taliesin was interr'd here.
But to proceed from these barbarous monuments (which yet I take to be no more rude than those of our neighbour nations before they were conquer'd by the Romans) to something later and more civilized; I shall here add an Inscription I lately copied from a large rude stone in Penbryn parish, not far from the Church. It stood not long since (as I was inform'd) in a small heap of stones, close by the place where it lies now on the ground. The stone is as hard as marble, and the letters large and very fair, and deeper inscrib'd than ordinary; but what they signifie, I fear must be left to the Reader's conjecture.
I must confess, that at first view, I thought I might venture to read it, Cor Balencii jacit Ordous; and to interpret it, The heart of Valentius of North-Wales lies here; supposing that such a person might have been slain there in battel. In old Inscriptions we often find the letter B. used for V. as Balerius for Valerius, Bixsit for Vixsit, Militabit for Militavit, &c. and the word Ordous I thought not very remote from Ordovices. But I am not satisfied with this notion of it my self, much less do I expect that others should acquiesce therein.
In this same parish of Penbryn, was found some years since, a British gold coyn, weighing (I suppose) above a Guinea; which is now in the possession of the worshipful John Williams Esquire of Aber Nant bychan, who was pleas'd to send me the figure of it, inserted now amongst some other Antiquities at the end of these Counties of Wales.
From this, and many others found in several places of this Kingdom, it's manifest the Britains had gold and silver coyns of their own, before the Roman Conquest; unless such as contend for the contrary, can make it appear that these coyns were brought in by the Phoenicians, or some other trading Nation, which I think no man has yet attempted. For seeing such of these coyns as want Inscriptions are always a little hollow on the one side, and have also impressions or characters (if I may so call them) different from those of Roman and all other coyns; it's very plain the art of coyning them was never learn'd of the Romans; for if so, we had never met with these unintelligible characters on them, but Roman letters, such as, by some coyns ofB [...] wa [...] a [...]a [...] ve [...] Cassivelaunus and Cunobelin, we find they made use of after their conquest.
Since Mr. Camden's time, Thomas Brudenel, Baron Brudenel of Stoughton, was created Earl of Cardigan Ear [...] Car [...] by K. Charles 2. Apr. 20. 1661. upon whose death Robert his son succeeded in his estate and titles.
ORDEVICES.
THose Countries of the Silures and Dimetae we have last survey'd, were in after-times, when Wales became divided into three Principalities, call'd by the Natives Deheubarth (or the Right-hand part) and in English, as we have already observ'd, South-Wales. The other two Principalities (which they call Gwynedh and Powys, we North-Wales and Powisland) were inhabited by the Ordovices, call'd also Ordevices and Ordovicae, and in some Authors (tho' corruptly) Ordolucae. A couragious and puissant Nation these were, as being inhabitants of a mountainous country, and receiving vigour from their native soil; and who continued the longest of any, unconquer'd, by either Romans or English. For they were not subdu'd by the Romans, till the time of the Emperour Domitian; when Julius Agricola reduced almost the whole nation: nor were they subjected by the English before the reign of Edward the first. For a long time they enjoy'd their liberty, confiding as well in their own strength and courage, as the roughness and difficult situation of their country: which may seem, in a manner, as if nature had design'd it for Ambuscades, and prolonging of war.
To determine the limits of these Ordevices, is no hard task; but to render a true account of the name, seems very difficult. However, I have entertain'd a conjecture, that seeing they are seated on the two rivers of Devi, which springing not far asunder, take their course different ways; and thatRead Ar-dhyvi. Oar-devi in the British language signifies, Upon the rivers of Devi; they have been thence call'd Ordevices. So the Arverni receiv'd their name from their situation on the river Garumna; the Armorici from inhabiting a maritim country, and the Horesci from their bordering on the river Esk.
Nor is the name of the Ordevices so entirely extinct in this country, but that there remain some footsteps of it. For a considerable part of it, which lies on the sea, is at this day call'd by the inhabitants Ardudwy; out of which the Romans, by a softer pronunciation, may seem to have coyn'd their Ordovices and Ordevices. But now this whole tract, one small County excepted, is call'd in Latin Gwynedhia, and Venedotia, and in British Gwynedh, from the Veneti in Armorica as some suspect, who (as Caesar writes) were us'd often to sail into Britain. And if it were allowable to change but one letter, I might suppose this name also not unknown to the Greeks and to Pausanias, who in his Arcadia informs us, that Antoninus Pius had sufficiently chastised our Brigantes, for making inroads into Genounia, a Roman Province in Britain. Now if we may be allow'd to read Genouthia Genounia. for Genounia, that word comes so near Guinethia, and this Guinethia [or Gwynedh] borders so much on the country of the Brigantes, that unless Pausanias understood this region, let Sibylla her self discover what country he meant. To the Ordovices belong'd those Countries which are now call'd in English by new names, Mont-Gomery-shire, Meirionydh-shire, Caernarvon-shire, Denbigh-shire, and Flint-shire.
MONTGOMERYSHIRE.
MOntgomeryshire, in British Sîr Dre' Valdwyn, from it's chief town, is bounded on the south with Cardigan and Radnor Shires; on the east with Shropshire; on the north with Denbigh, and on the west with Meirionydh Shire. This County, though it be mountainous, is yet in general a fertile Country, having fruitful Vales as well for pasture as arable land: and was formerly a breeder of excellent horses; which (as Giraldus informs us) were much esteem'd, as well for their shape and stateliness †,Membro [...] suà ma [...]state. as incomparable swiftness.
At the utmost limit of this County, westward, where it ends in a Cone or sharp point, lies Machynlheth; [...]achyn [...]eth. the Maglona [...]aglona. perhaps of the Romans, where1 in the time of Honorius the Emperour, the Praefect of the Solensians lay in garrison under the Dux Britanniae, in order to keep in subjection the inhabitants of that mountainous tract. And at 2 miles distance, near Penalht, Id est, [...]orsum [...]rbis. we find a place call'd Kevn-Kaer ‖, where they sometimes dig up Roman Coyns; and where are seen the footsteps of a round wall of considerable extent [a].
V [...]lgò [...]ly [...]hym [...]; an re [...] Pen [...]man, [...] c. Jugum [...]xillare? The foun [...]in-head [...]f Severn.Five miles hence, that mountain of † Plinlimon, I mention'd, rises to a great height; and on that side where it limits this County, sends out the river Sabrina, call'd by the Britains Havren, and in English Seavern; which, next to Thames, is the most noted river of Britain. Whence it acquired that name, I could never learn; for, that a Virgin call'd Sabrina was drown'd therein, seems only a Fable of Jeffrey's invention; on whose authority also a late Poet built these verses:
This river has so many windings near its Fountain-head, that it seems often to return; but proceeds nevertheless, or rather wanders slowly, through this County, Shropshire, Worcestershire, and lastly Glocestershire; and having throughout it's whole course enrich'd the soil, is at last discharged into the Severn-sea. In this County, being shaded with woods it takes it's course northward by Lhan Idlos, Lhan Idlos. Tre' newydh or New town, New-town. and Kaer Sŵs, Kaer Sws. (which is reported to be both ancient, and to enjoy ancient privileges;) and not far from it's bank on the east-side, leaves Montgomery, Montgomery. the chief town of this County, seated on a rising rock, having a pleasant plain under it. 'Twas built by Baldwin, Lieutenant of the Marshes of Wales, in the reign of K. Will. 1. whence the Britains call it Tre' Valdwin, Tre' Valdwyn. i.e. Baldwin's Town; but the English, Montgomery, from Roger de Mont Gomery, E. of Shrewsbury2, whose inheritance it was, and who built the Castle, as we read in Domesday-book: though Florilegus fabulously tells us, 'twas call'd Mons Gomericus (from it's situation) by King Henry 3. after he had rebuilt it; for the Welsh had overthrown it, putting the garrison to the sword, in the year 1095. after which it lay a long time neglected. However, certain it is, that King Henry 3. granted,Anno 11. That the Burrough of [Page 651-652] Montgomery should be a free Burrough, with other Liberties 3.
Near this town Corndon-hill Corndon-hill. rises to a considerable height; on the top whereof are placed certainCommonly call'd Magifold. stones in form of a crown (whence the name) in memory perhaps of some victory [c].
A little lower, the river Severn glides by Tralhwn, i.e. the town by the Lake, whence the English call it Welsh Pool Welsh Pool. [d]. Near unto which on the South-side, is a Castle,Red Castle. call'd from the reddish stones whereof 'tis built, Kastelh Kôch, where, within the same walls are two Castles; one belonging to the Lord of Powys, the other to Baron Dudley. Kadŵgan ap Bledhyn, that renowned Britain mention'd in the last County, whilst he was intent on the building of this Castle, was slain by his nephew Madok, as we find in the Abridgment of K'radok of Lhan Garvan. Opposite to this, on the other side the river, lyes Buttington, a place noted for the Danes wintering there: whence Marianus tells us they were driven out by Adheredus Duke of Mercia, in the year 894. The river Severn having left these places, winds it self by degrees towards the East, that it may the sooner receive a small river call'd Tanat L. Myrnwy., wherewith being united, it enters Shropshire.
I am fully perswaded (because it seems a certain truth) that the Mediolanum Mediolanum. of the Ordovices, celebrated by Antoninus and Ptolemy, stood in this Country, the footsteps whereof I have diligently endeavour'd to trace out, tho' with no great success; so far doth age consume even the very skeletons and ruins of Cities. However (if we may conjecture from its situation, seeing those Towns which Antoninus places on each side, are well known; viz. on one side Bonium, call'd now Bangor, by the river Dee, and on the other Rutunium, now Rowton Castle, for he places it twelve Italian miles from this, and from the other, twenty) the lines of Position (if we may so term them) or rather of Distance, cross each other betwixt Mathraval and Lhan Vylhin, which are scarce three miles asunder, and in a manner demonstrate to us the situation of our Mediolanum. For this method of finding out a third from two known places, cannot deceive us, when there are neither Mountains interpos'd, nor the turnings of Roads discontinued. This Mathraval Mathraval. lyes five miles to the west of Severn, and (which in some degree asserts the Antiquity of it) tho' it be now but a bare name, 'twas once the Royal Seat of the Princes of Powys; and is also noted in Authors, who tell us, that after the Princes left it,De veteri ponte. Robert Vipont an English-man built a Castle therein. But Lhan Vylhin Lhan Vylhin. (i.e. the Church of Mylhin) a small market-town, tho' in respect of distance it be farther off, is yet, as to affinity of name much nearer Mediolanum. For the word Vylhin is by a propriety of the British, only a variation of Mylhin; as Kaer-Vyrdhin, from Kaer and Myrdhin, and Ar-von from Ar-môn. Nor is this name of Mylhin [or Myllin] more remote from Mediolanum, than either Millano in Italy, Le Million in Xantoigne, or Methlen in the Low-Countries; all which (as is generally allowed) were formerly known by the name of Mediolanum. Now whether of these conjectures comes nearer the truth, let the Reader determine, for my own part I only deliver my opinion. If I should affirm that this our Mediolanum, and those other Cities of the same name in Gaul, were built either by Duke Medus or Prince Olanus; or that whilst it was building, Sus mediatim lanata [a Sow half clad with wooll] was dug up, should I not seem to grasp at clouds and trifles? And yet the Italians tell all these stories of their Mediolanum. But seeing it is most evident that all these were founded by people who spoke the same language (for we have shewn already, that the Gauls and Britains used one common tongue;) it seems highly probable, that they had their denomination from one and the same original. Now our Mediolanum agrees in nothing with that of Italy, but that each of them are seated in a Plain between two rivers; and a learned Italian has from thence derived the name of his Mediolanum, for that it is seated media inter lanas, Lana, [...] it sign [...]. which he interprets betwixt Brooks or small Rivers [e]4.
This County has dignified no Earl with its name and title, till very lately An. 1605. King James created at Greenwich, Philip Herbert, a younger son of Henry Earl of Penbroke by Mary Sydney, at one and the same time Baron Herbert of Shurland and Earl of Montgomery, Earls of Montgomery. as a particular mark of his favour, and for the great hopes he conceiv'd of his virtuous qualifications.
The Princes of Powis, Princes of Powys. descended from Roderic the GreatFro [...] Bledhyn [...] Kynvy [...] Powel [...] Lords of Powys., possess'd this County with some others in a continued series, till the time of Edward the second. For then Owen the son of Grufydh ap Givenŵynwyn the last Lord of Powys of British Extraction (for the title of Prince was discontinued long before) left only one daughter, call'd Hawis, D. Pow [...]. who was married to5 John Charlton an English-man, the King's Valect, and he thereupon created Earl of Powys by King Edward the second. His Arms (as I have observed in several places) were Or, a Lion rampant Gules 6. He was succeeded in this title by four Barons, until the male-line became extinct in Edward; who by Aeleanora, daughter and one of the heiresses of Thomas Holland Earl of Kent, had two daughters, viz. Jane married to Sir John Grey, and Joyce the wife of John Lord Tiptoft, from whom descended the Barons Dudley, and others.Dupli. Norm. 6 Hen. 5. This Sir John Grey by his own martial valour, and the munificence of King Henry the fifth, receiv'd the Earldom of Tanquervil Earl of Tanquer [...] in Normandy, ‘to him and his heirs male, delivering one Bassinet at the Castle of Roan, yearly on St. George's day’. His son was Henry Lord Powys, in whose Family the title of Powys continued honourable to Edward Grey, who not long before our time, died without lawful issue [f].
There are in this County 47 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to MONTGOMERYSHIRE.
[a] KEvn Kaer, Kevn Kaer. tho' it be here mention'd, lyes in the County of Meirionydh; concerning which a Gentleman who has liv'd there many years, adds this farther account.
The main Fort which was on the highest part of the hill, was built quadrangularly, and encompass'd with a strong wall and a broad ditch, of an oval form; excepting that towards the valley, 'twas extended in a direct line. On the out-side of the great ditch next the river Dyvi, the foundations of many Houses have been discover'd; and on a lower Mount there stood a small Fort, which may be supposed to have been built of bricks, for that they find there plenty of them. All the out-walls were built of a rough hard stone, which must have been carried thither by water, there being none such nearer than Tâl y Ganeg, distant from this place about seven miles. From the Fort to the water-side, there's a broad hard way of pitch'd pebles and other stones, continued in a straight line through meadows and marsh-grounds, which may be about two hundred yards long, and ten or twelve in breadth. It is very evident, this Fort hath been demolish'd before the building of the Church of Penalht, for that we find in the walls of that Church, several bricks mixt with the stones, which [Page] were doubtless brought thither from this place. Roman Coyns have been found here since Mr. Camden's time; particularly some silver pieces of Augustus and Tiberius: and near the main Fort, in a field call'd Kâe Lhŵyn y Neuodh (i.e. the Court or Palace-grove) a small gold chain was found, about four inches long; and another time a Saphire-stone neatly cut. Some other things of less note have been discover'd in the same place; as a very large brass Cauldron, used since as a brewing vessel at Kae'r Berlhan; several pieces of lead; and some very odd Glasses of a round form like hoops, which were of several sizes, some of them being about twenty inches in circumference, others much less, &c. These hoop-glasses were curiously listed, of divers colours; some of which being broke, 'twas observ'd that variety proceeded from Sands or Powders of the same colours, inclosed in several Cells within the Glass.
[b] Kaer Sŵs [...]er Sws. was anciently a town of considerable note, as may be concluded from the street there, and the lanes about it. I cannot learn that any Roman coyns have been discover'd at this place; however that it was of Roman foundation seems highly probable, for that there have been lately (besides some neat hewn stones for building) several bricks dug up there, of that kind we frequently meet with in such ancient Cities as were possess'd by the Romans. It has had a Castle and at least one Church, and is said to have been heretofore the seat of the Lords of Arwystli; but how far this town extended, seems at present altogether uncertain. It has had encampments about it at three several places, viz. First, on the North-side, on a Mountain call'd Gwyn-vynydh. Secondly, Eastward, near a place call'd Rhôs dhiarbed, in the parish of Lhan Dhinam, where, besides entrenchments, there's a very large Mount or Barrow. And thirdly, at a place call'd Kevn Karnedh, about a quarter of a mile on the West-side of the town. Moreover, about half a mile Southward from this Kevn Kardnedh, on the top of a hill above Lhan Dhinam Church, there's a remarkable entrenchment call'd y Gaer Vechan, which name may signifie either the lesser City, or the lesser Fortification, but is here doubtless put for the latter.
[c] The stones on the top of Corndon-hill, [...]rndon- [...], whence [...] call'd. are no other than four such rude heaps as are commonly known on the Mountains of Wales, by the name of Karneu and Karnedheu, whereof the Reader may find some general account in Radnorshire. And to me it seems very probable (seeing these stones can in no respect be compar'd to a Crown) that the name of Corndon is derived from this word Karn (the singular of Karneu) with the addition of the English termination don, signifying Mountain or Hill, as in Snowdon, Huntingdon, &c. which conjecture is much confirm'd, when we consider there are many hills in Wales denominated from such heaps of stones; as Karn Lhechart in Glamorganshire, Karnedh Dhavidh, Karnedh Higin, and Karnedh Lhewelyn in Caernarvonshire, with many more in other Counties.
[d] Tralhwn from Tre'r Lhyn, is an Etymology [...]ymology [...] the word [...]alhwn. agreeable enough with the situation of this place; otherwise I should be apt to suspect the word Tralhwn might be the name of a place near this pool, before the town was built, and that the town afterwards took its name from it. For in some parts of Wales 'tis a common appellative, for such soft places on the Roads (or elsewhere) as travellers may be apt to sink into, as I have observ'd particularly in the Mountains of Glamorganshire. And that a great deal of the ground near this place is such, is also very well known. As for the Etymon of the appellative Tralhwn, I suppose it only an abbreviation of Traeth lyn, i.e. a Quagmire.
[e] Concerning the situation of the old Mediolanum, [...]ed [...]ola [...]m. our Author seems to discourse with that judgment and modesty as becomes the character he justly bears in the world: and since his time, I cannot learn that any Roman Monuments have been discover'd at either of the places he mentions, that might remove his scruples, and fully determine the position of that City. His arguments for the agreeableness of the names of Mediolanum and Mylhin [though he writes it Methlin] are so valid, that I know not what can be objected to them. However, it seems observable, that we do not find it was customary among the Britains, to prefix the word Lhan (i.e. Church) to the name of Roman Cities; but if any word was prefixt, 'twas generally Kaer (i.e. a Fort or Fence) as Caer Lheion, Kaer Went, Kaer Vyrdhin, &c. And tho' we should allow the invalidity of this objection, and suppose the word Lhan might be introduced in latter times; yet considering that a learned and inquisitive Gentleman of this Town (who amongst his other studies, has always had a particular regard to the Antiquities of his Country) has not in the space of forty years met with any Coyns here, or other tokens of a place inhabited by the Romans; nor yet discover'd the least signs that this town was anciently of any considerable note; I think we cannot safely (barely on account of its name and vicinity to the situation requir'd) conclude it the old Mediolanum. Therefore it seems convenient to have recourse to the situation assign'd this City by Dr. Powel, before our Author writ his Britannia; who in his learned Annotations on Giraldus's Itinerary *,L 2. c. 4. assures us 'twas not only the opinion of some Antiquaries, that the ancient Mediolanum was seated where the village of Meivod stands at present; but also that the same village and places adjoyning afforded in his time several such remarkable Monuments, as made it evident, there had been formerly a considerable town at that place. This Meivod is seated about a mile below Mathraval, on the North-side of the river Myrnwy; and three miles Southward of Lhan Vylhin, at the situation our Author requires. At present there remains only a Church and a small village, but several yet living have seen there the ruins of two other Churches. I am inform'd that about a mile from the Church there's a place call'd Erw'r Porth, i.e. the Gate-acre, which is supposed to have taken its name from one of the Gates of the old City, and that in the grounds adjoyning to this village, Cawsways, Foundations of Buildings, Floors and Harths are often discover'd by Labourers; but whether any such Monuments as we may safely conclude Roman, as Coyns, Urns, Inscriptions, &c. are found at this place, I must leave to farther enquiry. Meivod (as Bishop Usher supposes) is call'd by Nennius Cair Meguid, and in other copies Cair Metguod; but what the word Meguid or Metguod, or yet Meivod or Mediolanum might signifie, is hardly intelligible at present; at leastwise I cannot discern that the modern British affords us any information concerning the origin of these names.
Mathraval mention'd here as formerly the seat of the Princes of Powys, shews at present no remains of its ancient splendour, there being only a small Farm-house where the Castle stood. Lhan Vylhin is a market-town of considerable note, first incorporated by Lhewelyn ap Grufydh Lord of Mechain and Mochnant, in the time of Edward the second. It's govern'd by two Bailiffs, chosen annually, who besides other Privileges granted to the town by King Charles the second (bearing date March 28. Anno Reg. 25.) were made Justices of the Peace within the Corporation during the time of their being Bailiffs.
[f] The Lordship of Powys was afterwards purchased by Sir Edward Herbert, second son of William Earl of Penbroke; to whom succeeded his eldest son Sir William Herbert, created Lord Powys by King James the first, whom his son Percy succeeded in the same title. But his son William was first made Earl of Powys by King Charles the second, and afterwards Marquiss of Powys by King James.
Since Philip Herbert, second son of Henry Earl of Penbroke, was created Earl of MontgomeryEarls of Montgomery. (3 Jac. 1. May 4) the same persons have enjoy'd the titles of Penbroke and Montgomery, and at present both are joyn'd in the right honourable Thomas Baron Herbert of Cardiff, &c.
MEIRIONYDHSHIRE.
BEyond the County of Montgomery, lies Meirionydhshire, which the Britains call Sîr Veirionydh, in Latin Mervinia, and by Giraldus, Terra filiorum Conani It reaches to the crooked bay I mention'd, and is wash'd by the main Ocean on the west-side with such violence, that it may be thought to have carried off some part of it. On the south (for some miles) 'tis divided from Cardiganshire by the river Dyvy; and on the north, borders on Caernarvon and Denbighshire.
Mountains ex [...]eeding high.This County hath such heaps of mountains, that (as Giraldus observes) 'tis the roughest and most unpleasant County of all Wales.1For the hills are extraordinary high, and yet very narrow, and terminating in sharp peaks; nor are they thin scatter'd, but placed very close, and so eaven in height, that the shepherds frequently converse from the tops of them; who yet, in case they should wrangle and appoint a meeting, can scarce come together from morning till night [a].
Innumerable flocks of sheep graze on these mountains; nor are they in any danger of Wolves,Wolves in England destroy'd. which are thought to have been then destroy'd throughout all England, when King Edgar impos'd a yearly tribute of three hundred wolves skins onNo Prince of this name in Wales: An leg. Idwal? See Derbyshire and Yorkshire. Ludwal Prince of these Countries. For (as we find in William of Malmesbury) ‘When he had performed this for three years, he desisted the fourth, alledging he could not find one more’. However, that there remain'd some long after, is manifest from unquestionable Records.
The inhabitants, who apply themselves wholly to the breeding of cattel, and who feed on milk-meats, viz. butter, cheese, &c. (notwithstanding that Strabo formerly derided our Britains as ignorant of the art of making cheese) are scarce inferiour to any people of Britain, in stature, clear complexion, comeliness, and due proportion of limbs; but have an ill character amongst their neighbours for Incontinency and Idleness.
It hath but few towns. On the east where Dyvy runs, Kwmmwd Mowdhwy Mowdhwy. is a place well known; which was formerly the inheritance of William, otherwise call'd Wilkok Mowdhwy, a younger son of Grufydh ap Gwenwynwyn, and by his son's daughter it descended to2 Hugo Burgh, and again by daughters of that house, to the honourable families of Newport, Leighton, Lingen and Mitton.
Where the riverDôl Gelheu. Avon runs more westerly, lies Dôl Gelheu, a small market-town, so call'd from the valley wherein 'tis seated [b]. And close by the sea in the small Country of Ardudwy, stands the castle of Ar-lech Harlech. (call'd heretofore Kaer Kolhwyn) on a steep rock, which, as the inhabitants report, was built by Edward 1. and took it's name from the situation; for Ar-lech in the British signifies on a rock; though some call it Harlech Quasi Hardh-lech, and interpret it, A rock pleasantly situated. When England was embroil d in civil wars, Davidh ap Jenkin ap Enion, a British Nobleman, who sided with the house of Lancaster, defended this castle stoutly for a long time against Edward 4. until3 William Herbert, Earl of Penb [...]oke, forcing his way thorough the midst of the Alps of Wales, though a very toilsome journey, storm'd it with that vigour, that it was surrender'd into his hands. It's almost incredible what great difficulties he struggl'd with in this troublesome journey; when in some places whilst he ascended the mountains, he was forced to creep; and elsewhere in descending, to tumble down in a manner, together with his soldiers: whence that way is call'd by the neighbours at this day, Lhé Herbert Herbe [...] way [c].
Higher up, in the confines of this County and Caernarvonshire, two notable arms of the sea encroach on the land, call'd Y Traeth mawr and Traeth bychan, that is, the Greater Wash or Frith, and the Lesser. And not far from hence, near a small village call'd Festineog, Fest [...] there is a high road or military way of pitch'd stones, which leads thorough these difficult and almost unpassable mountains; and seeing it is call'd in British Sarn Helen, or Helen's way, Hele [...] way. it is but reasonable that we suppose it made by Helena the mother of Constantine the Great; whose works were many and magnificent throughout the Roman Empire [d].
Nor is Kaer Gai, i.e. Caius's castle, far from this place, built by one Caius a Roman; of whom the common people of that neighbourhood report great things, and scarce credible.
In the east part of the County,The [...] tains o [...] Dee. the river Dee springs from two fountains, whence 'tis supposed it deriv'd it's name; for they call it Dŵy, which also signifies the number two; though others contend it took the name from the word Duw, as if a sacred river;This [...]i [...] is cal [...] We [...]sh Dow [...] S [...]e [...] shire [...] not. [r] Pimble Mea [...]. and some from Dû, which denotes black, from the colour of the water. This river, after a very short course, passes entirely, and unmix'd, through a large lake, call'd Lhyn Tegid, in English Pimble Mear, andCr [...] for i [...] Me [...]. Gui [...] Fish. Plenlyn Mear, carrying out the same quantity of water it brought in. For neither are the Gwiniad [e], which are a fish peculiar to this lake, found in the Dee; nor any Salmons taken in the lake, tho' commonly in the river: but, if you please, take here an accurate description of this lake, by an Antiquarian Poet.
On the brow of this Lake lies Bala, Bala. a small priviledg'd town, having but few inhabitants, and the houses rudely built; which yet is the chief market of these mountaneers [f].
Hugh, Earl of Chester, was the first Norman that seiz'd this Country, and planted garrisons in it, whilst Grufydh ap Co [...] Kynan was his prisoner: but he afterwards recovering this land with the rest of his Principality, left it to his posterity, who possess'd it till their fatal period in Prince Lhewelyn.
There are in this County 37 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to MEIRIONYDHSHIRE.
[a] THis Country (as Giraldus observes) generally consider'd, is the most mountainous of all the Welsh Counties; though it's mountains are not the highest; those of Snowdon in Caernarvonshire exceeding them in height, and being at least equal to them in rocky precipices. But whereas Giraldus calls it the roughest and most unpleasant country in all Wales; it may be answer'd (if that be worth notice) that for the pleasing prospect of a Country there is hardly any standard; most men taking their measures herein, either from the place of their own nativity and education, or from the profit they suppose a Country may yield. But if (as some hold) variety of objects make a Country appear delightful, this may contend with most; as affording (besides a sea-prospect) not only exceeding high mountains, and inaccessible rocks; with an incredible number of rivers, cataracts, and lakes: but also variety of lower hills, woods, and plains, and some fruitful valleys. Their highest mountains are Kader Idris, Aren Voudhwy, Aren Benlhyn, Arennig, Moelwyn, Mannod, &c. These maintain innumerable herds of cattel, sheep, and goats; and are (in regard they are frequently fed with clouds and rains, and harbour much snow) considerably more fertil (though the grass be coarse) than the hills and ridges of lower Countries. Kader Idris is probably one of the highest mountains in Britain; and (which is one certain argument of it's height) it affords some variety of Alpine plants: but for mountains so high, and their tops notwithstanding so near, that men may converse from them, and yet scarce be able to meet in a whole day; I presume there are none such in nature: and am certain there are not any in Wales, but men conversing from their tops, may meet in half an hour.
[b] Dôl Gelhe or Dôl Gelhen, is so call'd from it's situation in a woody vale, for that's the signification of the name; the word Dôl being much the same with the English Dale, so common in the North of England and Scotland: and [...]d est, [...] Kylh, [...]yle [...]um, Kelhe (in the southern dialect Kelhi) signifying strictly a wood where much hazel grows, and sometimes used for any other wood; though at present there are not so many woods about this town as were formerly. What antiquity this place is of, or whether of any note in the time of the Romans, is uncertain: however, some of their coyns have been of late years dug up near a well call'd Fynon Vair, within a bow-shot of the town; two whereof were sent me by the reverend Mr. Maurice Jones the present Rector; which are fair silver pieces of Trajan and Hadrian: viz.
[c] This place, in all likelihood, is denominated (as our Author supposes) from it's situation on a rock; though it's never call'd Arlech but Harlech. 'It was once call'd Tŵr Bronwen, and afterwards receiv'd the name of Kaer Kolhwyn from Kolhwyn ap Tagno, who liv'd there in the time of Prince Anarawd, about the year 877. and was Lord of Ardudwy and Evionydh, and some part of Lhŷn; which countries are yet for the most part possess'd by his posterity. His Arms were, Sable, a cheveron arg. betwixt three flower-de-luces.' Notwithstanding that Harlech might receive this name of Kaer Kolhwyn from Kolhwyn ap Tagno, yet it seems probable that this place, or some other near it, was call'd Kaer before his time. For I am assured, that in the memory of some persons yet living, several Roman Coins have been found hereabouts; and that the Britains prefix'd the word Kaer to most places fortified by the Romans, is well known to all Antiquaries.
In the year 1692. an ancient golden Torques was dug up in a garden somewhere near this castle of Harlech. It's a wreath'd bar of gold (or rather perhaps three or four rods joyntly twisted) about four foot long; flexil, but bending naturally only one way, in form of a hat-band; hooked at both ends exactly (that I may describe it intelligibly, though in vulgar terms) like a pair of pot-hooks; but these hooks are not twisted as the rest of the rod, nor are their ends sharp, but plain, and as it were cut even. It's of a round form, about an inch in circumference, weighs eight ounces, and is all over so plain, that it needs no farther description. It seems very probable, Roman Authors always intended an ornament of this kind by the word Torques, seeing it's deriv'd from Torqueo; and not a chain (compos'd of links or annulets) as our Grammarians commonly interpret it, and as Joannes Schefferus supposes, who in his learned and curious dissertation de Torquibus tells us; Torques erant mobiles & ex annulis; circuli solidi & rotundi; monilia paulo latiora, &c. Moreover, the British word Torch, which is doubtless of the same origin as well as signification with the Latin Torques, is never used for a chain, but generally for a wreath, and sometimes, though in a less strict sense, for any collar, or large ring; our word for a chain being Kadwen, which agrees also with the Latin. Whether the Torques here describ'd was British or Roman, seems a question not easily decided; seeing we find, that anciently most Nations we have any knowledge of, use this kind of ornament. And particularly, that the Britains had golden Torques's, we have the authority of Dio Cassius Hist. Rom. lib. 62., who in his description of Boadicea, or Bunduica, Queen of the Iceni in the time of Nero, tells us, she wore a large golden Torques ( [...],) that her garment was of divers colours, &c. If it be objected, that though she wore such an ornament, yet it might be in use amongst the Britains only since the Roman Conquest; it may be answer'd, that this seems not to have been the sense of the Author, but that he thus describes her for the strangeness of her habit; adding, that her yellow hair hung loose, and reach'd down to her hips, &c. A farther confirmation, that the Britains used golden Torques's, is, that they were so common among their neighbour nation (and probably their progenitors) the Gauls. For LivyLib. 36. c. 40. tells us, that Publius Cornelius, when he triumph'd over the Boii, produc'd, amongst other spoils, 1470 golden Torques's. And Britomarus, a commander amongst the Gauls, whom Mr. Camden presumes to have been a Britain, wore such an ornament; as we find inLib. 4. Propertius:
If any shall urge farther, (notwithstanding this authority of Dio Cassius, which wi [...]h me is sufficient) that seeing there's no British name for this ornament, (the common word Torch, being deriv'd from the Latin Torquis;) it should follow, the Britains knew no such thing: I answer (though we need not much insist on that objection) that to me it seems very suspicious the word was Celtick before 'twas Roman. For though I acknowledge it deriv'd from Torqueo, yet we have also the verb Torchi in the same sense: and seeing that both the British words Torch and Torchi are in all appearance deriv'd from the common word Troi, i.e. to turn; and also that Grammarians know not well whence to derive Torqueo; I know not but we may find the origin of it in the British Torch. Nor ought any one to think it absurd, that I thus endeavour to derive Latin words from the Welsh; seeing [Page 659-660] there are hundreds of words in that Language, that agree in sound and signification with the Latin, which yet could not be borrowed from the Romans, for that the Irish retain the same, who must have been a Colony of the Britains, long before the Roman Conquest: and also that the Welsh or British is one Dialect of the old Celtic; whence, as the best Criticks allow,Hib. [...], loé: Tir, Aiéir, Muir, Avan, Loch. the Roman Tongue borrow'd several words; and I presume, by the help of the Irish, which was never alter'd by a Roman Conquest, it might be traced much farther. For instance; we must acknowledge these British words, Tîr, Awyr, Môr, Avon, Lhŵch, &c. to have one common origin with those of the same signification in the Latin, Terra, Aer, Mare, Amnis, Lacus; but seeing the Irish also have them, it's evident they were not left here by the Romans; and I think it no absurdity to suppose them used in these Islands before Rome was built.
But that we may not digress too far from our subject, it's manifest from what we have alledg'd, that golden Torques's were much used by the Gauls; and I think not questionable, but they were in use also amongst the Britains before the Roman Conquest; but whether this we now speak of, were Roman or British, remains still uncertain. To which I can only say, that it seems much more probably to have been British. For whereas 'tis evident from the examples of Boadicea, Britomarus, the Champion that fought with T. Manlius Torquatus, &c. that the great Commanders amongst the Gauls and Britains wore them; I do not know that it appears at all that the Roman Officers did so; and unless that be made out, I think we may safely pronounce it British; for no other Roman but a Souldier could ever lose it here. As for those honorary rewards presented toGruter. Inscr. p. 96. Souldiers of merit, we may presume them not to have been Roman, but rather Spoils from the barbarous Nations they conquer'd. The use of this Ornament seems to have been retain'd by the Britains long after the Roman and Saxon Conquests; for we find that within these few Centuries, a Lord of Iâl in Denbighshire, was call'd Lhewelyn aur-dorchog, i.e. Leolinus torqui aureo insignitus: and 'tis at this day a common saying in several parts of Wales, when any one tells his adversary, he'l strive hard, rather than yield to him; mi a dynna'r dorch a chwi; i.e. I'll pluck the torques with you.
This we have here describ'd, seems by the length of it to have been for some use as well as ornament, which perhaps was to hold a Quiver; for that they were applyed to that use, seems very plain from Virgil'sAeneid. l. 5. description of the Exercises of the Trojan Youth:
But I fear I have dwelt too long on this one subject, and shall therefore only add (for the satisfaction of such as may scruple this relation) that this valuable Monument of British Nobility and Antiquity is now fitly reposited in the hands of the right worshipful Sir Roger Mostyn of Mostyn, Baronet.
We must not here forget to transmit to Posterity some account of that prodigious fire or kindled exhalation which has annoy'd this neighbourhood these eight months, and still continues so to do. There is already a short relation of it, published in the Philosophical TransactionsNum. 208., in a Letter from my abovemention'd Friend Mr. Maurice Jones; but those pieces coming to few hands, I shall make bold to insert it here, with some additions.
THis Letter contains no answer to your Queries about the Locusts, for I am wholly intent at present upon giving you the best account I can, of a most dismal and prodigious accident at Harlech in this County, the beginning of these Holy-days. It is of the unaccountable firing of sixteen Ricks of Hay, and two Barns, whereof one was full of Corn, the other of Hay. I call it unaccountable, because 'tis evident they were not burnt by common fire, but by a kindled exhalation which was often seen to come from the Sea. Of the duration whereof I cannot at present give you any certain account, but am satisfied it lasted at least a fortnight or three weeks; and annoy d the Country as well by poysoning their Grass, as firing the Hay, for the space of a mile or thereabouts. Such as ha [...]e seen the fire, say 'twas a blue weak flame, easily extingu [...]h'd, and that it did not the least harm to any of the men, who interpos'd their endeavours to save the Hay, tho' they ventur'd (perceiving it different from common fire) not only close to it, but sometimes into it. All the damage sustain'd, happen'd constantly in the night. I have enclosed a catalogue of such as I have receiv'd certain information of; and have nothing to add, but that there are three small Tenements in the same neighbourhood- (call [...]d Tydhin Siôn Wyn) whereof the Grass is so infected, that it absolutely kill'd all manner of Cattle that feed upon it. The Grass has been infectious these three years, but not throughly fatal till this last. Pray send me with all convenient speed your friends thoughts and your own of the causes, and if possible also the remedy of this surprizing Phaenomenon, &c.
Dôl Gelheu, Jan. 20. 1691.
The inclosed Catalogue.
Decemb. 24. Richard Grufydh of Lhechwedh dû, Humfrey Owen of Garreg wen, and Richard Davidh of Erw wen, had each of them one Rick of Hay burnt.
Decemb. 27. John Philips of Ynys Lhan Vihangel y Traethau, lost one Rick of Hay; Grufydh John Owen of Kevn Trevor bâch, two Ricks; and Katharine William, Widow, of Kevn Trevor Mawr, two more.
Decemb. 29. Francis Evans of Glàs-vryn lost one Rick; and Richard Davidh of Erw wen, had a Barn full of Hay of three Bays of building, burnt to the ground.
Thus far Mr. Jones's account of this surprizing and unparallel'd Meteor; since which time I receiv d information from him and others, that it continued to the seventeenth of this present month of August; so that we know not the end of it. It has done no great damage by consuming their Hay and Corn, besides those above-mentioned; but the Grass or Air, or both, are so infected with it, that there has been all this while a great mortality of Cattle, Horses, Sheep, Goats, &c. and I pray God grant Men may escape it. For a long time they could not trace this fire any further than from the adjoyning Sea-shores: but of late, those that have watch'd it (as some have done continually) discover'd that it crosses a part of the Sea, from a place call'd Morva bychan in Caernarvonshire, distant from Harlech about 8 or 9 miles, which is describ'd to be a Bay both sandy and marshy. Last winter it appear'd much more frequent than this following summer: for whereas they saw it then almost every night, it was not observed in the summer above one or two nights in a week; and that (which if true, is very observable) about the same distance of time, happening generally on Saturday or Sunday nights: but of late it's seen much oftner, so that 'tis fear'd, if it continues this winter, it may appear as frequently as ever. They add that it's seen on stormy as well as calm nights, and all weathers alike; but that any great noise, such as the sounding of Horns, the discharging of Guns, &c. does repel or extinguish it; by which means 'tis supposed they have sav'd several Ricks of Hay and Corn, for it scarce fires any thing else.
This Phaenomenon I presume is wholly new and unheard of, no Historian or Philosopher describing any such Meteor; for we never read that any of those fiery Exhalations distinguish'd by the several names of Ignis fatuus, Ignis lambens, Scintillae volantes, &c. have had such effects, as thus to poyson the Air or Grass, so as to render it infectious and mortal to all sorts of Cattle. Moreover, we have no examples of any fires of this kind, that were of such consistence as to kindle Hay and Corn, to consume Barns and Houses, &c. Nor are there any describ'd to move so regularly as this, which several have observ'd to proceed constantly to and from the same places for the [Page 661-662] space of at least eight months. Wherefore seeing the effects are altogether strange and unusual, they that would account for it, must search out some causes no less extraordinary. But in regard that may not be done (if at all) without making observations for some time upon the place; we must content our selves with a bare relation of the matter of fact. I must confess, that upon the first hearing of this murrain amongst all sorts of Cattle, I suspected those Locusts that arriv'd in this Country about two months before, might occasion it, by an infection of the Air; proceeding partly from the corruption of those that landed, and did not long survive in this cold Country; and partly of a far greater number which I supposed drown'd in their voyage, and cast upon these Coasts. For tho' I know not whether any have been so curious as to search the Sea-weeds for them in this County, yet I am inform'd a Gentleman accidentally observ'd some quantity of them on the shoars of Caernarvonshire near Aber Dâran; and that others have been seen on the Sands of the Severn-Sea. Now that a considerable quantity of these Creatures being drown'd in the Sea, and afterwards cast ashoar, will cause a Pestilence, we have many instances in Authors [...]. Tho. [...]feti [...]entrum [...]rum, [...]: 3.; and particularly one that happen'd in the year 1374. when there was a great mortality of Men and Cattle, on the Coasts of France, occasion'd by Locusts drown'd in our English Chanel, and cast upon their shoresO [...]o Fri [...]g [...]ns.. But whether such a contagious vapour, meeting with a viscous exhalation, in a moorish Bay, will kindle; and so perform in some measure, such a devastation of Hay and Corn, as the living Creatures would do, (where we may also note that [...] 11. [...]1. 1. Pliny says of them, multa contactu adurunt) I must recommend to farther consideration. I know there are many things might be objected, and particularly the duration of this fire; but men are naturally so fond of their own conjectures, that sometimes they cannot conceal them, tho' they are not themselves fully satisfied.
About two miles from Harlech there's a remarkable Monument call'd Koeten Arthur. It's a large stone-Table somewhat of an oval form, but rude and ill shap'd, as are the rest of these heathen Monuments, about ten foot long, and above seven where 'tis broadest; two foot thick at one end, but not above an inch at the other. It's placed on three rude Stone-pillars, each about half a yard broad; whereof two that support the thick end are betwixt seven and eight foot; [...]hèch y [...]bedh in [...]brook [...]e. but the third, at the other end about three foot high.
[d] This way which we call Sarn Helen, was probably of a very considerable extent; unless we should suppose the same Helen was Author of several other high ways in Wales. For besides the place here mention'd, it's also visible at one end of Kraig Verwyn, where 'tis call'd Fordh gam Helen Luedhog, i.e. The crooked Road of Helen the great, or puissant. And I observ'd a way call'd Fordh [or Sarn] Helen, in the parish of Lhan Badarn Odyn in Cardiganshire; as also that a great part of the Road from Brecknock to Neath in Glamorganshire, is distinguish'd by the same name. At this parish of Festiniog, it's call'd otherwise Sarn y Dhûal (a name whereof I can give no account) for the space of three miles, viz. from Rhŷd yr Hàlen [...]ether [...]k [...] o [...] [...] was [...]e call'd [...]; or [...]er e [...]e [...] [...]e [...]y [...]ar [...] &c. [...] [...]ad. to Kastelh Dôl Wydhèlen; and some presume that Pont Aber Glaslyn, and y Gymŵynas in Caernarvonshire, is a continuation of the same Road.
On a Mountain call'd Mikneint near Rhyd ar Halen, within a quarter of a mile of this Road, there are some remarkable Stone-monuments, call'd Bedheu Gwyr Ardudwy, i.e. the Graves of the men of Ardudwy. They are at least thirty in number; and each Grave is describ'd to be about two yards long; and to be distinguish'd by four Pillars, one at each corner of a Grave; which are somewhat of a square form, about two or three foot high, and nine inches broad. The tradition is, that these are Sepulchral Monuments of some persons of note slain here, in a battel fought betwixt the men of Dyffryn Ardudwy, and some of Denbighshire. That they are indeed the Graves of men slain in battel seems scarcely questionable; but when, or by what persons, &c. is wholly uncertain. One of the next neighbours informs me, that about twelve years since, he saw amonst other stones brought hence to mend the walls of Festiniog-Church-yard, one with an Inscription; but at present there remains no account of it. By the description he gives of it, I suppose it Roman. For he says 'twas a polish'd stone, about two foot long, half a yard broad, and three or four inches thick: whereas all the later Inscriptions I have seen in Wales, are on large Pillars, which are generally rude and unpolish'd. I am told there are also a considerable number of Graves near this Caus-way, on the Demeans of Rhiw goch, in the parish of Trawsvynydh: and in the year 1687. I copied this Inscription from a stone call'd Bêdh Porws, or Porus's Grave, near Lhêch Idris in the same Parish.
HIC IN TVMVLO JACIT
HOMO—RIANVS FVIT
I found afterwards 'twas generally understood, as if this had been the Grave of one of the first Christians in these parts; and that they read it, Porius hic in tum [...]o jacit: Homo Christianus fuit. Being at that time wholly unacquainted with any studies or observations in this kind; perhaps I might not transcribe it, with that accuracy I ought; but if it be thus on the Stone (which I must recommend to farther examination) it can never bear that reading, unless we suppose the Letters STI omitted by the Stone-cutter after RI in the last line; which would be such a fault as we have scarce any instance of in those many hundreds of Inscriptions which Authors have publish'd. But howsoever we read the word,—RIANVS, I suppose this Inscription to have been the Epitaph of some Roman, about the second or third Century.
[e] The word Gwiniad might be aptly render'd in English a Whiting; but the fish so call'd is very different from it, being of the Trout kind. A description of it may be seen in Mr. Willoughby's Ichthyology, who supposes it the same with that they call (by names of the like signification) ein Albelen, and Weissfisch in some parts of Switzerland, and the Ferra of the Lake of Geneva. And here we may observe the natural agreeableness of those Alpine Lakes with these in our Mountains, in affording the same species of fish, as well as of our high Rocks in producing some variety of Alpine Plants. They are never taken by any bait, but in nets; keeping on the bottom of the Lake, and feeding on small shells, and the leaves of water Gladiol Gladiolus lacustris Clusii., a Plant peculiar to these Mountain Lakes. That they are never taken in Dee, is no argument for that frivolous opinion of the Vulgar, that this river passes unmixt through the Lake; since we find that Fish as well as Birds and Beasts have their stations Providentially assign'd them, and delight in such places as afford them agreeable feeding, &c.
[f] The word Bala, though it be now very seldom (if at all) used as an Appellative, denotes, as the Author of the Latin-British DictionaryTho. Galielmus. Vide Davisii Praef. informs us, the place where any River or Brook issues out of a Lake; as Aber signifies the fall of one river into another, &c. and hence Dr. Davies supposes this town denominated. In confirmation whereof I add, that near the out-let of the River Seiont, out of Lhyn Peris The L [...]ke of St. Peris. in Caernarvonshire, there's a place call'd Bryn Bryn signifies a hill. y Bala. Others contend that Bala in the old British, as well as Irish, signifies a Village. I incline to the former opinion, and imagine that upon farther enquiry, other instances besides these two might be found out, which would make it evident. The round Mount or Barrow at this Town, call'd Tommen y Bala, as also that other about half a mile from it, call'd Brynlhysk, and a third at Pont Mwnwgl y Lhyn, in the same neighbourhood, are supposed by their names, form, and situation, not to have been erected for Urn burial, but as Watch-mounts to command the road and adjacent places, upon the Roman Conquest of this Country.
Not far from hence in the Parish of Lhan ùw' Lhyn, we find the ruins of an ancient Castle, whereof no Author makes mention. It's call'd Castelh Corndochen, a name whereof I can give no account; and is seated on the top of a very steep Rock, at the bottom of a pleasant valley. It shews the ruins of a Wall, and within that of three Turrets, a square, a round, and an oval one, which is the largest. The mortar was mixt with Cockle-shells, which must have been brought hither by Land-carriage, about 14 miles. It seems probable that this Castle, as also such another (but much less) in Traws-vynydh Parish, call'd Castelh Prysor, were built by the Romans, but nothing certain can be affirm'd herein.
¶ We have not room here to take notice of several other places remarkable, and shall therefore only mention a gilt Coffin and some brass Arms, found there of late years. The Coffin was discover'd about the year 1684. in a TurberyBoggy or moorish ground where fuel turfs are dug up., call'd Mownog ystràtgwyn near Maes y Pandy, the seat of the worshipful John Nanney Esq. It was of wood, and so well preserv'd, that the gilding remain'd very fresh; and is said to have contain'd an extraordinary large Skeleton. This is the only instance I know of burying in such places: and yet they that placed this coffin here, might have regard to the perpetual preservation of it; seeing we find by dayly examples of trees found in Turberies, that such bituminous earth preserves wood beyond all others.
The brass Arms were found in the year 1688.See Fig. 14. 15. in a rock call'd Katreg Dhiwin, in the parish of Bethkèlert. They seem to be short swords or daggers, and to have been all cast in molds. They were of different forms and sizes; some of them being about two foot long, others not exceeding twelve inches: some flat, others quadrangular, &c. About fifty of them were found by removing a great stone; so near the surface of the ground, that they were almost in sight. I have been inform'd, that several were gilt: but twenty or thirty that I saw of them when first found, were all cover'd with a bluish scurf. Their handles probably were of wood, for they were all wasted: and there remain'd only (and that but in very few) two brass nails that fasten'd them, which were something of the form of chair-nails, but headed or riveted on each side; so that they could not be taken out without breaking out the round holes wherein they were placed; which they did not fill up, but hung loose in them. Such weapons have been found elsewhere in Wales; and they were probably of this kind, which were found at the foot of St. Michael's Mount in Cornwall, and are in that County mention'd by our Author, who supposes them British.
CAERNARVONSHIRE.
ABove Merionydhshire, lies that County which the Britains call Sîr Gaernarvon, and the English Caernarvonshire, from the chief town; and before the division of Wales into Counties, Snowdon Forest; whence in Latin Historians 'tis call'd Snaudonia; as also Arvonia, because it lies opposite to the Island Mona or Anglesey. The north and west parts of it border on the sea; the south on Meirionydhshire; and on the east the river Conwy Conwy riv. divides it from Denbighshire. The maritim part of it is fertile enough, and well-peopl'd; especially that south-west promontory that opposes it's crooked shores, to St. David's Land in Penbrokeshire.
But for the inner parts, nature hath rais'd them far and wide into high mountains (as if she would condense here within the bowels of the earth, the frame of this island;) and made a most safe retiring place for the Britains in time of war. For here are such a number of rocks and craggy places, and so many valleys incumber'd with woods and lakes, that they are not only unpassable to an army, but even to menExpediti. lightly appointed. We may very properly call these mountains the British Alps; The British Alps for besides that they are the highest in all the island, they are also no less inaccessible for the steepness of their rocks than the Alps themselves: and do all of them encompass one hill; which far exceeding all the rest in height, does so tour the head aloft, that it seems, I shall not say, to threaten the sky, but even to thrust its head into it. And yet it harbours snow continually, being throughout the year cover'd with it; or rather with a harden'd crustNivium senio. of snow of many years continuance. And hence the British name of Kreigieu Eryreu, and that of Snowdon Snowdon Hills. in English; both which signifie Snowy mountains: so Niphates in Armenia, and Imaus in Scythia, as Pliny informs us, were denominated from Snow. Nevertheless, these mountains are so fertile in grass, that it's a common saying among the Welsh, That the mountains of Eryreu would, in a case of necessity, afford pasture enough for all the cattel in Wales. I shall say nothing of the two lakes on the tops of these mountains; (in one of which there floats a wandring island, and the other affords plenty of fish, each whereof has but one eye;) lest I might seem to countenance fables: tho' some relying on Giraldus's authority, have believ'd both. However, that there are lakes and standing waters on the tops of these mountains, is certain: whence Gervase of Tilbury, in his book entitl'd Otia Imperialia, writes thus:
In the land of Wales within the bounds of Great Britain, are high mountains, which have laid their foundations on exceeding hard rocks; on the tops whereof the ground is so boggy, that where you do but just place your foot, you'll perceive it to move for a stones cast. Wherefore upon a surprisal of the enemy, the Welsh by their agility skipping over that boggy ground, do either escape their assaults, or resolutely expect them, while they advance forward to their own ruin.
Joannes Sarisburiensis, in his Polycraticon, calls the inhabitants of these mountains by a new-coin'd word Nivi collinos; of whom he wrote thus in the time of Henry 2. Nivicollini Britones irruunt, &c. The Snowdon-Britains make inroads; and being now come out of their caverns and woods, they seize the plains of our Nobles; and before their faces, assault and overthrow them, or retain what they have got; because our youth, who delight in the house and shade, as if they were born only to consume the fruit of the land▪ sleep commonly till broad day, &c. [a].
But let us now descend from the mountains to the plains; which seeing we find only by the sea, it may suffice if we coast along the shore.
That promontory we have observ'd already to be extended to the south-west, is call'd in the several copies of Ptolemy, Canganum, Canga [...] Janganum, and Langanum. Which is truest I know not; but it may seem to be Langanum, seeing the inhabitants at this day call it Lhŷn. Lhyn. It runs in with a narrow Peninsula, having larger plains than the rest of this County, which yield plenty of Barley.
It affords but two small towns worth our notice: the innermost at the bay of Pwlh heli, Pwlh [...]. which name signifies the Salt Pool; and the other by the Irish sea (which washes one part of this Peninsula,) call'd Nevin: Nevin. where, in the year 1284 the English Nobility (as Florilegus writes) triumphing over the Welsh, celebrated the memory of Arthur the Great with Tournaments and festival pomp. If any more towns flourish'd here, they were then destroyed,Vita G [...] fyd [...] [...] na [...]. when Hugh Earl of Chester, Robert of Rutland, and Guarin of Salop (the first Normans that advanc'd thus far) so wasted this promontory, that for seven years it lay desolate.
From Nevin the shore indented with two or three promontories, is continued northwards; and then turning to the north-east, passes by a narrow frith or chanel call'd Meneu, [...]neu, or [...]nat. See [...]irebe [...]. which separates the Isle of Anglesey from the firm land.
Upon this Fretum stood the city Segontium, [...]go [...]tium. mention'd by Antoninus; of the walls whereof I have seen some ruins near a small Church built in honour of St. Publicius. [...]. It took its name from a river that runs by it, call'd to this day Seiont, which issues out of the lake Lhŷn Peris, wherein they take a peculiar fish, not seen elsewhere, call'd by the inhabitants from its red belly, Torgoch. [...]goch. Now seeing an ancient copy of Ptolemy places the haven of the Setantii [...]ntii. in this coast, which other copies remov'd much farther off; if I should read it Segontiorum Portum, and should say it was at the mouth of this river, perhaps I should come near the truth; at least a candid reader would pardon my conjecture. Ninnius calls this city Kaer Kystenydh, and the author of the life of Grufydh ap Kynan, tells us, that Hugh Earl of Chester built a castle at Hén Gaer Kystenin; which the Latin Interpreter renders, The ancient city of the Emperour Constantine. Moreover, Matthew of Westminster hath recorded (but herein I'll not avouch for him) that the body of Constantius, the father of Constantine the Great, was found here in the year 1283. and honourably interr'd in the Church of the new town, by command of King Edward 1. who at that time built the town of Kaer'n Arvon out of the ruins of this city, [...]nar [...]. a little higher, by the mouth of the river; in such a situation, that the sea washes it on the west and north. This, as it took its name from its situation opposite to the island Mona, so did it communicate that name to the whole County: for thence the English call it Caernarvonshire. This town is encompass'd with a firm wall, tho' of a small circumference, almost of a circular form; and shews a beautiful castle, which takes up all the westside of it. The private buildings, for the manner of the Country, are neat; and the civility of the inhabitants much commended. They esteem it a great honour, that King Edward 1. was their founder; and that his son Edward 2. the first Prince of Wales of English extraction, was born there; who was therefore stiled Edward of Caernarvon. Moreover, the Princes of Wales had here their Chancery, their Exchequer, and their Justiciary for North Wales.
In a bottom seven miles hence on the same Fretum, lies Bangor [...]gor. or Banchor, enclosed on the south-side with a very steep mountain, and a hill on the north; so call'd à choro pulchro, or as others suppose, quasi locus chori [...]ee [...]. [...] [...]sh D. [...] in word [...]. [...]e [...], [...]i Pen [...] or [...] Ce [...].; which is a Bishop's See, and contains in it's Diocese 96 Parishes. The Cathedral is consecrated to Daniel, once Bishop thereof: it's no very fair building, having been burnt by that most profligate Rebel Owen Glyn Dowrdwy, who design'd no less than the destruction of all the Cities of Wales. 'Twas afterwards restored in the time of Henry 7. by the Bishop thereof, Henry Deny; but hath not yet recover'd it's ancient splendour. 'Tis now only a small town, but was heretofore so considerable, [...]a G [...]f. that for it's large extent, it was call'd Bangor-vawr, and was fortified with a castle by Hugh Earl of Chester, whereof (tho' I made diligent enquiry) I could not discover the least ruins. 'Twas seated at the very entrance of this Fretum or chanel, where Edward 1. attempted in vain to build a bridge, that his Army might pass over into the Island Mona or Anglesey; whereof next in order. At this place also, as we find in Tacitus, Paulinus Suetonius pass d over with the Roman soldiers; the horse at a ford, and the foot in flat-bottom'd boats.
From hence the shore with a steep ascent passes by a very high and perpendicular rock call'd Pen maen mawr: Penmaenmawr. which hanging over the sea, affords travellers but a very narrow passage; where the rocks on one hand seem ready to fall on their heads; and on the other, the roaring sea of a vast depth. But having pass'd this, together with Pen maen bychan, i.e. the lesser rocky promontory, a plain extends it self as far as the river Conwy, Conwy river call'd Toisovius. the eastern limit of this County. This river is call d in Ptolemy, Toisovius for Conovius, which is only an errour crept in o copies from a compendious way of writing Greek. It springs out of a lake of the same name, in the southern limit of the County; and hastens to the sea, being confin'd within a very narrow and rocky chanel, almost to the very mouth of it. This river breeds a kind of Shells, which being impregnated with celestial dew, produce pearlPearls. [b]. The town of Conovium Conovium, mention'd by Antoninus, receiv'd it's name from this river: which tho' it be now quite destroy'd, and the very name (in the place where it stood) extinct; yet the antiquity of it is preserved in the present name: for in the ruins of it we find a small village call'd Kaer hên, which signifies the old city [c]. Out of the ruins of this city, King Edw. 1. built the new Town at the mouth of the river; which is therefore call'd Aber Conwy: a place that Hugh Earl of Chester had fortified before. This new Conwy, both in regard of its advantageous situation, and for its being so well fortified, as also for a very neat castle by the river side; might deserve the name of a small city, rather than a town, but that it is but thinly inhabited [d].
Opposite to Conwy on this side the river (though in the same County) we have a vast promontory with a crooked elbow (as if nature had design'd there a harbour for shipping) call'd Gogarth; Gogarth. where stood the ancient city of Diganwy Diganwy. on the sea of Conwy, which many ages since, was consumed by lightning. This I suppose to have been the city Dictum, Dictum. where under the later Emperours, the commander of the Nervii Dictenses kept guard. As for it's being afterwards call'd Diganwy: who sees not that Ganwy is a variation only of Conwy; and that from thence also came the English Ganoc? Ganoc. for so was that castle call d, which in later times was built by Henry 3. [e].
Soon after the Norman Conquest, this Country was govern'd by Grufydh ap Kŷnan Conanus., who not being able to repel the English troops which made frequent inroads into Wales, was constrain'd sometimes to yield to the storm: and when afterwards by his integrity he had gain'd the favour of King Henry 1. he also easily recover'd his lands from the English, and left them to his posterity, who enjoy'd them till the time of Lhewelyn ap Grufydh An account of the life and death of this excellent Prince, may be seen at large in Dr. Powel's History of Wales, p g. 314, &c.. But he having provok'd his brothers with injuries, and the neighbouring English with incursions, was at length brought to that strait, that he held this mountainous Country (together with the isle of Mona or Anglesey) of King Edward 1. as Tenant in fee; paying a thousand marks yearly. Which conditions when he afterwards would not stand to, but (following rather his own and his perfidious brother's obstinacy, than led on with any hopes of prevailing) would again run the hazard of war; he was kill'd, and so put an end to his own Government, and that of the Britains in Wales.
This County contains 68 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to CAERNARVONSHIRE.
[a] THE British name of these Mountains Kreigieu'r Eryreu, signifies Eagle Rocks, which are generally understood by the Inhabitants to be so call'd from the Eagles that formerly bred here too plentifully, and do yet haunt these Rocks some years, tho' not above three or four at a time, and that commonly one Summer in five or six; coming hither, as is supposed out of Ireland. Had they been denominated from Snow, the name must have been Kreigieu'r Eiral, whereas we always call them Eryreu. Nor do the ancientest Authors that mention them, favour Mr. Camden's Etymology; for Giraldus Cambrensis writes it Eryri (which differs nothing in pronunciation) and Ninnius, who writ Anno 858. Heriri. However, seeing the English call it Snowdon, the former derivation was not without good grounds; and 'tis possible the word yrau might be either the ancient pronunciation, or a corruption of eira; and so these Rocks call'd Kreigiau yr Yrau, which might afterwards be written Kreigieu Eryreu. Amongst these Mountains the most noted are Moel y Wydhva, y Glyder, Karnedh Dhavidh, and Karnedh Lhewelyn; which are very properly call'd by our Author the British Alps. For besides their extraordinary height, and craggy precipices, their abounding with Lakes and Rivers, and being covered with Snow for a considerable part of the year; they agree also with the Alps in producing several of the same [...]ee Ray's Synophs of British Plants. Plants, and some Animals; as particularly Merula Saxatilis Aldrovandi, call'd here, and in Meirionydhshire, Mwyalchen y Graig, i.e. Rock-ouzl, and in Switzerland, Berg-Amzel, or Mountain Black-bird; and the Torgoch, a FishUmbl [...] minor G [...]sneri, p. 1201., which MrWillough. Ichthyol. Ray supposes to be the same with theThe word Roetel sign [...]fies the same with Torgoch. Roetel of the Alpine Lakes.
In these Mountains (as probably in the Alps also, and other places of this kind) the greatest variety of rare Plants are found in the highest and steepest Rocks. The places here that afford best entertainment for Botanists, are, Klogwyn Karnedh y Wydhva, call'd commonly Klogwyn y Garnedh (which is probably the highest Rock in the three Kingdoms,) Krîby Call'd so corruptly, perhaps for Kr [...]by D [...]stith; for water drops down this precipice continually. Diskil, Trig-vylchau i e. Treigi-Vy [...]chen., and y Klogwyn dû ymhèn y Glyder, which are all near Lhan Berys, and well known to the Shepherds. Such as have not seen Mountains of this kind, are not able to frame an Idea of them, from the hills of more champain or lower Countries. For whereas such hills are but single heights or stories, these are heap'd upon one another; so that having climb'd up one Rock, we come to a Valley, and most commonly to a Lake; and passing by that, we ascend another, and sometimes a third and a fourth, before we arrive at the highest Peaks.
These Mountains, as well as Kader Idris and some others in Meirionydhshire, differ from those by Brecknock, and elsewhere in South-Wales, in that they abound much more with naked and inaccessible Rocks; and that their lower skirts and valleys are always either cover'd, or scatter'd over with fragments of Rocks of all magnitudes, most of which I presume to have fall'n from the impendent Cliffs. But of this, something more particular may be seen in Mr. Ray's Physico-Theological Discourses, pag. 285. wherefore I shall mention here only two places, which seem'd to me more especially remarkable. The first is the summit, or utmost top of the Glyder (a Mountain above-mention'd as one of the highest in these parts) where I observ'd prodigious heaps of stones, many of them of the largeness of those of Stone-honge See Wiltshire.; but of all the irregular shapes imaginable; and all lying in such confusion, as the ruins of any building can be supposed to do. Now I must confess, I cannot well imagine how this hath happen'd: for that ever they should be indeed the ruins of some Edifice, I can by no means allow, in regard that most of them are wholly as irregular as those that have fall'n to the Valleys. We must then suppose them to be the Skeleton of the hill, exposed to open view, by rains, snow, &c. but how then came they to lye across each other in this confusion? some of them being of an oblong flat form, having their two ends ex. gr. East and West; others laid athwart these: some flat, but many inclining, being supported by other stones at the one end; whereas we find by Rocks and Quarries, the natural position of stones is much more uniform. Had they been in a valley, I had concluded, they had fall'n from the neighbouring Rocks, because we find frequent examples of such heaps of stones augmented by accession of others tumbling on them; but being on the highest part of the hill, they seem'd to me much more remarkable.
The other place I thought no less observable, tho' for contrary reasons; that being as regular and uniform, as this is disorder'd and confus'd. On the West-side of the same hill, there is amongst many others one naked PrecipiceTh [...] K [...]gr [...] nea [...] s [...] vy [...] is pe [...] one i [...] there, [...] d [...]t [...] by [...] parti [...] name., as steep as any I have seen; but so adorn'd with numerous equidistant Pillars, and these again slightly cross'd at certain joynts; that such as would favour the Hypothesis of the ingenious Author of the Sacred Theory, might suppose it one small pattern of the Antediluvian Earth. But this seem'd to me much more accountable than the former; for 'twas evident that the gullets or interstices between the pillars, were occasion'd by a continual dropping of water down this Cliff, which proceeds from the frequent Clouds, Rains and Snow, that this high Rock, expos'd to a westerly Sea-wind, is subject to. But that the effects of such storms are more remarkably regular on this Cliff than others, proceeds partly from its situation, and partly from the texture or constitution of the stone it consists of. However, we must allow a natural regularity in the frame of the Rock, which the storms only render more conspicuous.
That these Mountains are throughout the year cover'd either with Snow, or a harden'd crust of Snow of several years continuance, &c. was a wrong Information our Author probably receiv'd from some persons who had never been at them. For generally speaking, there's no Snow here from the end of April to the midst of September. Some heaps excepted, which often remain near the tops of Moel y Wydhva and Karnedh Lhewelyn, till the midst of June, e're they are totally wasted. It often snows on the tops of these Mountains in May and June; but that Snow, or rather Sleet, melts as fast as it falls; and the same shower that falls then in Snow on the high Mountains, is but Rain in the Valleys. As for an incrustation of Snow or Ice of several years continuance, we know not in Wales what it means: Tho' Wagnerus J [...]. Wa [...] Ha [...]t. [...] He [...] Co [...] Se [...]. tells us they are common in the Alps of Switzerland. — Tempore aestivo quoque suprema Alpium culmina aeternâ ac invictâ glacie rigent, perpetuisque nivibus sunt obtecta. And adds, there are Mountains crown'd with hillocks or vast heaps of such Ice, call'd by them Firn or Gletscher, which may be presumed to have continued for two or three thousand years, insomuch that for hardness it may seem to be rather Crystal than Ice, &c.
The number of Lakes in this mountainous tract, may be about fifty or threescore. I took a Catalogue of fifteen, visible from the top of Moel y Wydhva. These are generally denominated either from the rivers they pour forth, or from the colour of their water; amongst which I observ'd one, under the highest Peak of Snowdon, call'd Fynon lâs that signifies the Green Fountain, which I therefore thought remarkable, because Mr. RayObsertions T [...] graph &c. observes that the waters of some of the Alpine Lakes, are also inclin'd to that colour. Others receive their names from some Village or Parish-Church adjoyning, or from a remarkable Mountain or Rock under which they are situated; and some there are (tho' very few) distinguish'd by names scarce intelligible to the best Criticks [Page 669-670] in the British, as Lhyn Teirn, Lhyn Eigiau, Lhyn Lhydaw [...]me [...]ight [...]n [...]erpret the [...] former T [...]ng [...]-near [...]nd S [...]ie [...]r; the [...]ed Ieirn [...]g [...]ing a [...]a [...]r and [...] of Th. Lhy [...]s is the [...] [...]ereby [...]e call Ar [...]a; but [...]rifies [...]thing [...]e we [...]w of., &c. Giraldus Cambrensis (as our Author observes) informs us of two Lakes on the highest tops of these Mountains; one of which was remarkable for a wandring Island; and the other no less strange, for that all the fish in it (tho' it abounded with Eels, Trouts, and Perch) were monocular, wanting the left eye. To this we must beg leave to answer, that amongst all the Lakes in this mountainous Country, there is not one seated on the highest part of a hill, all of them being spread in valleys either higher or lower, and fed by the Springs and Rivulets of the Rocks and Cliffs that are above them. The Lake wherein he tells us there's a wandring Island, is a small pond, call'd Lhyn ŷ Dywàrchen, (i.e. Lacus cespitis,) from a little green patch nea [...] the brink of it, which is all the occasion of the fable of the wandring Island; but whence that other of monocular Fish (which he says were found also at two places in Scotland) took beginning, I cannot conjecture. Most of these Lakes are well stor'd with fish, but generally they afford no other kinds than Trout and Eel. The Torgochiaid or red Charres (if we may so call them) are found in some other Lakes of this County and Meirionydh, besides Lhyn Peris; but this Lake of St. Peris affords another kind of Alpine Fish; and by the description I hear of it, I suspect it to be the Gelt or Gilt Charre of Winandermear in Westmorland, which Mr. Willoughby and Mr. Ray conclude to be the same with the Carpio Lacus Benaci of Rondeletius and Gesner. The season here for catching both, begins about the eleventh of November, and continues for a month. These fish, as well as the Guiniad of Lhyn Tegid in Meirionydhshire, are never taken by bait, but in nets, near Pontvawr, in the river Seiont, which issues out of this Lake, and is call'd now corruptly Avon y Sant, from St. Peris.
I observ'd that the Inhabitants of these Mountains call any low Country Hendrev, which signifies the ancient habitation; and that 'tis a common tradition amongst them, as also amongst those that inhabit the like places in Brecknock and Radnorshire, that the Irish were the ancient Proprietors of their Country; which I therefore thought remarkable, because 'tis impossible that either those of South-wales should receive it from these, or the contrary, seeing they have no communication, there being a Country of about fourscore miles interpos'd.
[b] The river Conwy is probably one of the noblest streams of the length in Europe; for whereas the whole course of it is but twelve miles, it receives so many Brooks and Rivulets from the bordering Mountains of Snowdon, that it bears Ships of burden. And hence, if I may be free to conjecture, it receiv'd its name; for supposing that Gŵy (or ŵy) signifies a River See R [...]d [...]r [...]e [...]e [...] [ [...]].; Kŷnwy or Conwy (for in Etymologies we regard the pronunciation, not the orthography) must denote an extraordinary great or prime river: the particle Kyn prefixt in compound words, being generally augmentative, or else signifying the first and chief. As Kyn-kan, extraordinary white; Kyndyn, very stiff or obstinate; Kynvid, the Antediluvian world; Kyndhydh, the dawning of the day; Kynverthyr, a Proto-martyr, &c. And (that we may note this by the way) I suspect the word Cyn to have been the same originally with the Irish Cean, i.e. Head; whence Kyntav signifies the first, quasi pennav the chiefest; and Dr. Davies supposes the word Kyndhâredh, i.e. Megrim or Vertigo, to be equivalent in signification with Penharedh. If this may be allow'd, I know not but these proper names, Cuntegorix, Cunobelinus, Cuneglasus, and Cunotamus [...]ea the [...]ons, (call'd in British Kŷntwrch, Kynvèlyn, Kŷnglas, and Kynèdhav P [...]n [...]h [...]e. [...]em. [...] [...]av, [...]) might bear the interpretation of Choerocephalus, Flavicomus, Canus and Capito, or Bucephalus; since we find that persons of the greatest dignity, were stiled by such sirnames, not only among the Britains, but the Romans also, and probably most Nations in these parts of Europe.
The Pearls of this river are as large and well colour'd as any we find in Britain or Ireland, and have probably been fish'd for here, ever since the Roman Conquest, if not sooner. For 'tis evident that Pearls were in esteem amongst the Britains before that time, seeing we read in PlinyN [...]t. Hist. l. 9. c. 35., that Julius Caesar dedicated a Breast-plate to Venus genitrix, placing it in her Temple at Rome, all cover'd or studded over with British Pearls: which must have been receiv'd from the Britains, and not discover'd here by his own Souldiers, for he advanced not much nearer than 100 miles of any river that affords them.
The British and Irish Pearls are found in a large black Muscle, figur'd and describ'd by Dr. Lister, under the title of Musculus niger omnium crassissimâ & ponderosissimâ testâ Append. ad Tract. de Animal. Angl p. 11.; whereby it's sufficiently distinguish'd from all other shells. They are peculiar to rapid and stony rivers; and are common in Wales, in the North of England and Scotland, and some parts of Ireland. In this Country they are call'd by the vulgar Kregin Diliw, i.e. Deluge-shells; as if Nature had not intended shells for the rivers: but being brought thither by the Universal Deluge, had continued there, and so propagated their kind ever since. They that fish here for Pearls, know partly by the out-side of these Muscles, whether they contain any; for generally such as have them, are a little contracted or distorted from their usual shape. A curious and accomplish'd Gentleman lately of these partsRobert Wyn of Bôd Y [...] kalhen, Esq. (whose untimely death I have reason, amongst many others, to bewail) shew'd me a valuable Collection of the Pearls of this river; amongst which I noted a stool-pearl, of the form and bigness of a lesser buttonmold, weighing 17 grains; distinguish'd on the convex side with a fair round spot of a Cornelian colour, exactly in the center.
[c] The small village mention'd here by the name of Kaer hên, lies three miles above Conwy (or Aber Kynwy) and is now call'd Kaer Rhûn, which was also the vulgar name of it in our Author's age, as appears by some Writings of that time. Nevertheless I incline to his conjecture, that Kaer Rhûn is only a corruption of Kaer hên, i.e. the old City: unless we should rather suppose it call'd Y Gaer hŷn, which signifies the elder Town or City, with reference to the Town of Conway; which as our Author informs us, was built by King Edwar [...] the first out of the ruins of it. The common tradition of this neighbourhood is, that it received its name from Rhûn ap Maelgwn Gwynedh, who liv'd about the end of the sixth Century; for his Father, whom Gildas calls Maglocunus (which word I suppose some Copyist writ erroneously for Maelocunus) and invectively Draco Insularis, died about the year 586Mr. Rob. Vaughan's MS.. This I suspect was at first no other than the conjecture of some Antiquary, conceiv'd from the affinity of the names, which being communicated to others, became at length a current Tradition, as we find too many more have, on the like occasion: but whether Rhûn ap Maelgwn gave name to this place or not, 'tis certain 'twas a City long before his time, there being no room to doubt but this was the old Conovium of the Romans mention'd in the Itinerary.
Not many years since there was a Roman Hypocaust discover'd at this place, agreeable in all respects (by the account I hear of it) with those found at Kaer Lheion ar ŵysk, mention'd by Giraldus; and near Hope in Flintshire, describ'd by Mr. Camden. So that in all places in Wales, where any Legions had their station, such stoves or hot vaults have been discover'd: those at Kaer Lheion ar ŵysk being made by the Legio Secunda Augusta, that near Hope by the twentieth Legion, entitl'd Britannica Valens Victrix, which lay at Kaer Lheion ar Dhowrdwy, or Westchester; and this by the Tenth. For I find in some notes of Mr. William Brickdal, late Rector of Lhan Rŵst, that he had seen several brick tiles, found near this Church of Kaer hŷn, inscrib'd LEG. X. And as those two places above-mention'd were call'd Kaer Lheion (i.e. Urbs Legionum) from the Legions that had their stations there, with the addition of the names of the rivers on which they were seated, so I suspect this place might be call'd anciently Kaer Lheion ar Gynwy, because we find a hill near it, call'd at this day Mynydh Caer Lheion, i.e. Kaer Lheion Mountain. The late Sir Thomas Mostyn Baronet, who (without complement to his worthy Successor) may be [Page 671-672] justly stil'd a Gentleman of exemplary qualifications, shewed me amongst his valuable Collecton of Antiquities, some Curiosities he had received from this place. Amongst which I noted a hollow brick, from the Hypocaust above-mention'd, thirteen inches long, and five and a half square, having a round hole in the midst, of about two inches diameter, the thickness of the brick, not exceeding ¾ of an inch. But of this I thought a figure might be acceptable to the Curious, and have therefore added one at the end of these Welsh CountiesFig. 8.; as also of a round piece of Copper found here, and preserv'd in the same Collection, which I thought very remarkable. It's somewhat of the form of a Cake of Wax, even or flat on one side, and convex on the other, about eleven inches over, and forty pound weight. It's uneven in the margin or circumference, and some what ragged on each side; and on the flat side, hath an oblong square sunk in the midst, with an Inscription as in the figureFig. 19.. This he supposed to have been a piece of rude Copper or Bullion; and that the Inscription was only the Merchant's stamp, or direction to his Correspondent at Rome: adding, there were some signs of a Roman Copper-work near Trevriw, about three miles hence, and elsewhere in this neighbourhood, whence 'twas probable they had dug it.
[d] In the year 880 a memorable Battel was fought near Aber Kynwy, betwixt Anârawd Prince of North Wales, and Eadred Duke of Mercia, whereof that judicious Antiquary Mr. Robert Vaughan of Hengworth, gives the following account, in some notes he writ on Dr. Powel's History of Wales.
After the death of Roderic the Great, the northern Britains of Stratclwyd and Cumberland, were (as Hector Boethius and Buchanan relate) much infested and weakned with the daily incursions of Danes, Saxons, and Scots; which made many of them (all that would not submit their necks to the yoke) to quit their country, and seek out more quiet habitations. Under the conduct of one Hobert they came to GwynedhNorth-Wales., in the beginning of Anarawd's reign; who commiserating their distressed condition, gave them the country from Chester to the river Conwy to inhabit, if they could force out the Saxons, who had lately possessed themselves thereof. Whereupon these Britains first engaged the Saxons; and necessity giving edge to their valour, soon drove them out thence, being yet scarce warm in their seats. About three years after this, An. Dom. 880. Edryd Walhthîr Id est, Longkair'd., King of the Saxons, (call'd by the English Historians Eadred Duke of Mercia) made great preparations for the regaining of the said country; but the northern Britains, who had settl'd there, having intelligence thereof; for the better securing of their cattel and goods, remov'd them over the river Conwy. In the mean time, P. Anârawd was not idle; but gather'd together all the strength he could make. His army encamp'd near Conwy, at a place call'd Kymryd, where he and his men making resistance against the assaults of the Saxon power, at length, after a bloody fight, obtain'd a compleat victory. This battel was called Gwaéth Kymryd, Konwy, because it was fought in the Township of Kymryd, hard by Conwy; but Anàrawd call'd it Lîal Rodri, because he had there reveng'd the death of his father Rodri. In this battel, Tudwal the son of Rodri Mawr receiv'd a hurt in the knee, which made him be call'd Tudwal Glôf, or the Lame, ever after. His brothers, to reward his valour and service, gave him UchelogoedAn rectius Uchelgoed? Gwynedh. The Britains pursuing their victory, chased the Saxons quite out of Wales into Mercia; where having burnt and destroy'd the borders, they return'd home laden with rich spoils. Anárawd, to express his thankfulness to God for this great victory, gave lands and possessions to the Church of Bangor, as the Records of that See do testifie; and likewise to the Collegiate Church of K'lynog in Arvon, as we read in the extent of North Wales. After this, the northern Britains came back from beyond the river Conwy, and possessed again the lands assigned them between Conwy and Chester, which for a long time after, they peaceably enjoy'd. Some English Writers, as Mat. Westm. &c. not considering probably, that the Britains had lands in Lhoegria and Albania, after King Cadwaladr's time, take those of Cumberland and Stradklwyd for the Britains of Wales. Asser Menevensis, who liv'd A. D. 875. says, that Chr. Sax. Healfdene. Halden the Dane marched into Northumberland, which he subdued, having before conquered the Picts and Britains of Stratcluid: — In regionem Nordan hymbrorum perrexit, eamque subjugavit, necnon & Pictos &The [...] ford E [...] An. [...] hath S [...] cledens [...] Chroc. [...] Strat [...] wea [...]a [...] Strat [...] wea. a [...] Ystra [...] Khaya [...] [...] nif [...] Chy [...] Da [...] [...]a [...] V [...]e [...] C [...]yd; whe [...] Strec [...] Stra [...] and [...] lea, [...] ma [...]y t [...] at [...] Stratcludenses.
[e] About ten years since, there were found at this castle of Diganwy (or very near it) several brass instruments somewhat of the shape of axes; but whether they were British or Roman, or what use they were design'd for, I must leave to be determin'd by others. There were about 50 of them found under a great stone, placed heads and points; whereof some are yet preserv'd in the collection abovemention'd. These have been also discover'd in several other parts of Wales; and that whereof I have given a Figure (n [...]n. 13 [...] is one of seven or eight that were found of late years at the opening of a Quarry on the side of Moel yr Henlhys A [...] ca [...] Der [...]a [...]. p [...]r [...]sh in Montgomeryshire. Dr. Plot, in his Natural History of Staffordshire (pag. 403.) mentions such brass instruments found at four several places in that County; which though they differ something from ours, were yet in all likelihood intended for the same use. But that they were Bolt-heads of Roman Catapultae (as that learned and ingenious Author supposes) seems to me somewhat questionable: not only for that we find no mention of brass Arms amongst the Romans; but partly because they seem not large enough for that use, nor well contriv'd either for flight or execution: and partly because Antiquaries take it for granted, the Britains had no wall'd towns or castles before the Roman Conquest; so that such machins as Catapultae and Ballistae were unnecessary in this Island. If it be urged, they might be of use to cover the passes of rivers or frithsTa [...] An [...] [...] x [...]. [...] mag [...] ne prak [...] te [...], &c. agit p [...] amne [...] [Eup [...] tem p [...] cat [...]n & i [...] pr [...] Bart [...] in qu [...] xa &c. long. [...] mea [...] qua [...]s cont [...] sagit [...] jacta a [...] aequ [...]atur., as that into Anglesey out of this County; 'tis evident they were not used here on that occasion: for if so, the British army had not been posted on the opposite shore to receive the Romans (as Tacitus Annal. 14. expresly tells us they were) but had been compell'd to a farther distance. It seems very probable, that the brass Axes found at St. Michael's Mount in Cornwal, were of this kind; because there were found with them certain Arms of the same metal, like short swords or daggers, such as we find also in these parts, and have mention'd in the last County. Of those, Mr. Camden's opinion was, that they were British: and indeed it's not to be doubted but that they were so, if the brass Arms he mentions were really swords (as he supposes,) for no man will imagine that the Romans used swords of that metal: and that being granted, 'twill be scarce questionable but the Axes and Spear-heads he mentions to be lodg'd with them, belong'd to the same Nation. For my own part, I must confess, that for a long time I suspected these instruments Roman, supposing them too artificial to have been made by the Britains before the Romans civiliz'd them; and that they were not swords, &c. but intended for some other uses. But seeing they had gold and silver coyns before that time (as all Antiquaries allow) and that 'tis scarce questionable but the golden Torquis described in the last County was theirs; and also that Pliny tells us the Druids cut down their Misseltoe with golden sickles: I know not but they might have more arts than we commonly allow them, and therefore must suspend my judgment.
¶ There are in this County (as also in the other Provinces of North-Wales) several remarkable old forts, and such stone-monuments as we have noted in the Counties of Caer-Mardhin, Penbroke, and Cardigan; whereof because I have taken no description my self, I shall here insert for the satisfaction of the curious, some short notes on this subject out of a MS. written by a person of Quality in the reign of King Charles 1. and communicated to me by my worthy friend Mr. Griffith Jones, School-master of Lhan Rŵst
On the top of Pènmaen stands a lofty and impregnable Hill call d Braich y Dhinas; where we find the ruinous walls of an exceeding strong fortification, encompass'd with a treble wall, and within each wall the foundation of at least a hundred towers, all round and of equal bigness, and about six yards diameter, within the walls. The walls of [Page 673-674] this Dinas were in most places two yards thick, and in some about three. This castle seems (when it stood) impregnable, there being no way to offer any assault to it; the hill being so very high, steep, and rocky, and the walls of such strength. The way or entrance into it ascends with many turnings; so that a hundred men might defend themselves against a whole Legion; and yet it should seem that there were Lodgings within these walls for 20000 men. At the summit of this rock, within the innermost wall, there's a Well, which affords plenty of water, even in the dryest summers. By the tradition we receive from our Ancestors, this was the strongest and safest refuge or place of defence the ancient Britains had in all Snowdon to secure them from the incursions of their enemies. Moreover, the greatness of the work shews it was a princely fortification, strengthen'd by nature and workmanship; seated on the top of one of the highest mountai [...] [...]f that part of Snowdon, which lies towards the Sea.
About a mile from this fortification, stands the most remarkable monument in all Snowdon, call d Y Meineu hirion; upon the plain mountain, within the parish of Dwy Gyvylcheu, above Gŵdhw glâs. It's a circular entrenchment, about 26 yards diameter; on the out-side whereof, there are certain rude stone-pillars pitch'd on end; of which about 12 are now standing, some 2 yards, others 5 foot high; and these are again encompass'd with a stone wall. It stands upon the plain mountain, as soon as we come to the height, having much even ground about it; and not far from it there are three other large stones pitch'd on end in a triangular form.
About three furlongs from this monument, there are several such vast heaps of small stones as we call Karnedheu; concerning which, the tradition is, that a memorable battel was fought near this place betwixt the Romans and Britains; wherein, after much slaughter on both sides, the latter remaining conquerours, buried their dead in heaps, casting these stones on them; partly to prevent the wild boars (which in those times were common in these parts) from digging up their bodies; and partly as a memorial to posterity, that the bodies of men lay there interr'd. There are also about these heaps or Karnedheu, several graves, which have stones pitch'd on end about them, and are cover'd with one or two large ones. These are presumed to be the monuments of the Commanders or greatest persons then flain in battel; but having nothing to inform us herein, we must rely on tradition and conjecture, &c.
At present this County gives the title of EarlEarl. to the right honourable Charles Dormer.
ANGLESEY.
WE have already observ'd, that the County of Caernarvon, we last survey'd, deriv'd it's name from the chief Town therein, and that the Town borrow'd that name also from the Island Mona, which lies opposite to it. It remains now, (whereas we formerly, not so properly, plac'd it among the Islands) that we restore that tract to its right place, and describe it in order; seeing it enjoys also, and not undeservedly, the title of a County. This Island was call'd by the Romans Mona; in British Môn and Tir Môn, i.e. the Land of Mon, and Ynys dowylh or the shady Island; by the old Saxons Moneg, and in latter times, when reduced by the English, Engles ea and Anglesey, i.e. the English Island. 'Tis divided from the Continent of Britain by the narrow frith of Meneu David's [...]n [...]eshire.; and on all other sides, wash'd by that raging Irish sea. It is of an irregular form, and extended in length from east to west 20 miles [...] is [...] [...]1., and where broadest about 17. ‘This Land (saith Giraldus) although as to outward appearance it may seem a dry, rocky, and unpleasant country, not unlike that of Pebidiog near St. David's; is yet, as to the quality of the soil, much otherwise; for 'tis incomparably the most fruitful country for wheat in all Wales: insomuch that in the Welsh language, it's proverbially said of it, Môn mam Gymry, i.e. Môn the Nursery of Wales: because when other Countries fail'd, this alone, by the richness of the soil, and the plentiful harvests it produced, was wont to supply all Wales.’ It is also at this time very rich in cattel1, and affords milstones; in some places also a kind of Alum-earthe, of which they lately began to make Alum and Coperas; but the project not succeeding, they have now desisted.
[...]This is that celebrated Island Mona; anciently the seat of the Druids, attempted first by Paulinus Suetonius, and reduced under the Roman yoke by Julius Agricola. In the reign of Nero, this Paulinus Suetonius (as we read in Tacitus) prepared for an attempt on the Island Mona, a very populous country, and a receptacle of deserters; and to that end, built flat-bottom'd vessels, because the shores were but shallow and hazardous: thus the foot passed over; and the horse follow'd, either at a ford, or else in deeper waters (as occasion required) swam their horses. On the opposite shore stood the Enemies army, well provided of arms and men; besides women running about with dishevel'd hair like furies, in a mournful habit, bearing torches in their hands. About the army stood the Druids, who (with hands lifted up to heaven) pouring forth dreadful Imprecations, so terrified the soldiers with the novelty of the sight, that (as if their limbs had been benumm'd) they exposed their bodies, like so many stocks, to the strokes of the enemy. But at last, partly by exhortation of the General, and partly by encouraging each others not to stand amazed at the sight of distracted women and Fanaticum agmen. a company of frantick people; they advance their ensigns, and trample down their enemies, thrusting them into their own fires. They being thus conquer'd, a garrison was planted there, and their groves cut down, which were consecrated to their cruel superstitions. For they held it lawful to sacrifice with the blood of Captives; and by inspection into humane Entrails to consult their Gods. But while these things were in agitation, a sudden revolt of the whole Province, recall'd him from this enterprise. Afterwards, as the same Author writes, Julius Agricola resolves to reduce the Island Mona; from the Conquest whereof Paulinus was recall'd (as we have already observ'd) by a general rebellion in Britain: but being unprovided of transport Vessels, as it commonly happens in doubtful resolutions, the policy and courage of the General found new means of conveying over his army. For having first laid down their baggage, [...]he commanded the choicest of the Auxiliaries (to whom the fords were well known, and whose custom it was in their country, so to swim as to be able to guide themselves and their arms and horses) to pass over the chanel. Which was done in such a surprising manner, that the enemies, who expected a Navy, and watch'd the sea, stood so much amazed; that, supposing nothing difficult or invincible to men of such resolution, they immediately supplicated for peace, and surrender'd the Island. So Agricola became famous and great [a].
Many ages after, when it was conquer'd by the English, it took up their name; being call'd formerly by the Saxons Engles-ea, and now Anglesey; which signifies the English Island. But seeing Humfrey Lhwyd, in his learned Epistle to that accomplish'd Scholar Ortelius, has restor'd the Island to its ancient name and dignity, it is not necessary we should dwell long upon this County.
However we may add, that about the decline of the Roman Government in Britain, some of the Irish Nation crept into this Island. For besides certain intrench'd [Page 675-676] Banks, which they call Irish Cottages; there is another place well known by the name of Yn hericy Gwidil, from some Irish, who under the conduct of one Sirigi, overcame the Britains there, as we read in the Book of Triades [b]. Nor was it afterwards harass'd by the English only,Marianus. but also by the Norwegians: and in the year 1000, a Navy of King Aethelred sailing round the Island, wasted and consum'd it in a hostile manner [c].
Afterwards, two Normans of the name of Hugh, the one Earl of Chester, and the other of Salop, oppress'd it; and to restrain the Inhabitants, built the Castle of Aber Lhienawg. But Magnus the Norwegian coming thither at the same time,2 shot Hugh Earl of Chester through the body with an arrow, and pillaging the Island, departed. The English having afterwards often attempted it, at last brought it under their subjection in the time of Edward the first. It contain'd formerly 363 Villages; and is a very populous Country at this time. The chief Town is Beaumaris, Beaumaris. built in the East part of it, in a moorish place, by King Edward the first, and call'd by the name of Beau marish from its situation, whereas the place before was call'da Bonover. He also fortified it with a Castle, which yet seems not to have been ever finish'd; the present Governour whereof is the right worshipful Sir Richard Bulkley Knight, whose civility towards me, when I survey'd these Counties, I must always gratefully acknowledge.
Not far from hence lyes Lhan Vâes, Lhan Vâes. a famous Cloister heretofore of the Friers minors; to which the Kings of England have been bountiful Patrons, as well on account of the devoutness and exemplary lives of the Friers who dwelt there, as (that I may speak out of the Book of Records) because there were buried at that place, a daughter of King John, 2 Pa [...]l [...]t. Ann. 2 li [...] a son of the King of Denmark, the bodies of the Lord Clifford, and of other Lords, Knights, and Esquires, who were slain in the wars of Wales, in the times of the illustrious Kings of England.
The Town of Newburgh, Newb [...]rg [...]. in British Rhosîr [d], is esteem'd next best to Beaumarish, distant from it about twelve miles westward; which having strugl'd along time with the heaps of Sand cast against it by the Sea, has now lost much of its former splendour.
Abèr-Fraw, Abèr-Fra [...]. not far from thence, tho' at present but a mean place, wa [...] yet heretofore of much greater repute than any of the rest, as being the Royal Seat of the Kings of Gwynedh, or North-Wales, who were thence also styl'd Kings of Abèr-Fraw.
Near the western Cape of this Island, which we call Holy-head, Holy he [...]d. there's a small Village call'd in Welsh Kaer Gybi; which receiv'd its name from Kybi (a devout man, and Disciple of St. Hilary of Poictiers) who led here a religious life: from whence there is a common passage into Ireland [e].Of the Isl [...]nds adjoyni [...]g [...] A [...]gle [...], see an [...] [...] the B [...] Isles. The other places of this Island are well planted with Villages, which seeing they afford little worth our notice, I shall now pass over into the Continent, and take a view of Denbighshire.
There are in this Island 74 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to ANGLESEY.
[a] BEing wholly unacquainted in this Country my self, I shall insert here an Extract of a Letter from my ingenious Friend, the reverend Mr. John Davies Rector of Newburgh, concerning the place where the Romans are thought to have pass'd the Frith of Meneu, and some Monuments in this Island, which seem particularly remarkable.
‘—'TIS suppos'd the Romans pass'd the Fretum of Menai, betwixt a place call'd now Lhàn-Vair îs Gaer in Caernarvonshire, and Lhan Idan in this County. Opposite to this supposed passage, there is a hill call'd Gwydryn (a name corrupted perhaps from Gwŷdh-Uryn, i.e. Conspicuous Hill) which having two Summits or Tops; one of them shews the ruins of an ancient Fort; and on the other I observ'd a round pit sunk in a Rock, of about nine foot diameter, fill'd up with pure Sand. What may be the depth of it, I cannot at present inform you; some that have sounded it for three yards, having discover'd no bottom. I have had some suspicion this might be the place where the Druids offer'd their cruel Sacrifices with the blood of Captives; but having nothing out of History to confirm my conjecture, I shall not much contend for it, but leave it to you and others to consider what so odd a contrivance was design'd for.’
‘About a mile from the place where we suspect the Romans landed, we find Tre'r Druw, which doubtless took its name from some Druid, and may be interpreted Druids-Town, seeing we find the adjoyning Township is call'd Tre'r Beirdh, i.e. Bards Town. And this puts me in mind of a place call'd Maen y Druw, i.e. Druid-Stone, within the Kwmmwd of Twrkèlyn in Lhan Elian parish; where we need not much question, but there was formerly a Sepulchral monument of a'Druid, tho' now it be only the name of a house.’
‘Upon the Confines of the Townships of Tre'r Druw and Tre'r Beirdh, we meet with a square Fortification, which may be supposed to be the first Camp the Romans had after their landing here; and opposite to it westward, about the distance of three furlongs, there's another strong hold, of a round form and considerable height, which probably was that of our Ancestors. Farther westward, under this Fort's protection, there are stones pitch'd on end, about twelve in number, whereof three are very considerable, the largest of them being twelve foot high, and eight in breadth where 'tis broadest; for 'tis somewhat of an oblong oval form. These have no other name than Kèrig y Brŷngwyn Bryngw [...] signifies Wh [...]re [...] or Wh [...]ehill. (or Bryngwyn stones) and are so call'd from the place where they are erected. On what occasion they were rais'd, I cannot conjecture, unless this might be the burial place of some of the most eminent Druids. In Bod-Owyr, which lyes on the Northside of the same round Fort, at a farther distance, we find a remarkable Kromlech, which several, as well as my self, suppose to be another kind of Sepulchral monument since the time of Heathenism. These (for we have several others in the Island) are composed of three or four rude stones, or more, pitch'd on end as supporters or pillars, and a vast stone of several tuns laid on them as a covering; and are thought to have received the name of Cromlecheu, for that the Table or covering Stone is on the upper side somewhat gibbous or convex: the word Krwm signifying (as you know) crooked or bunch-back'd, and Lhech any flat stoneS [...]e [...]e [...] br [...]h [...]e A [...]n [...].. This Kromlech at Bod-Owyr, is more elegant than any Monument I have seen of its kind: for whereas in all others I have noted, the top-stone as well as the supporters, is altogether rude and unpolish'd; in this it is neatly wrought, considering the natural roughness of the stone, and pointed into several angles, but how many I cannot at present assure you. [Page 677-678] We have a tradition, that the largest Kromlech in this County, is the Monument of Bronwen, daughter to King Lhyr or Leirus, who you know is said to begin his reign An. Mundi 3105. But of this, and the rest of our Kromlecheu, take here the words of an ingenious Antiquary whilst living, Mr. John Griffith of Lhan Dhyvnan, in a Letter to Mr. Vaughan of Hengwrt.’ —Bronwen Leiri filiam quod attinet; Cellula lapidea curvata, ubi sepultam tradunt, non procul à fluvio Alaw cernitur, ex parte occidentali B [...]dh Pe [...]ual a [...]naed i [...]ro [...]en [...]ch Lhyr [...]an A [...]wag yno [...] ad [...]yd hi. [...]oynogi.. Sed an Rex ille perantiquus, unquam in rerum natura fuerit, dubitant Camdeniani; quàm rectè, ipsi viderint. Ejusmodi Aediculae quae apud nos frequentes sunt, Cromlechau, nomine (ut scis) non inepto vocitantur. Denique Insula haec, quae Sylva erat iis temporibus. ferè continua, & Druidum sedes quasi propria, magnatum tumulis abundat. Loci scilicet reverentia optimates quosque huc duxit sepeliendos, &c.
‘I know there are some who suppose these Monuments, and such like, to have been federal testimonies; but that I take to be a groundless conjecture: and the opinion of their being places of Interment seems much confirm'd, for that a Gentleman of my acquaintance remembers that an odd kind of Helmet [...]em also [...]form'd [...]ere was a [...]nd of [...]eir or [...]herd, [...]nd by [...]ggin [...] [...]ar the [...]ne place. Ma [...]: sig [...]fies p [...] [...]yo [...]ya [...]ge open [...]d; out I [...] told [...]r in the [...]mes of [...]ces in [...] Coun [...]i [...] used [...] b [...]rte: that Kier [...]es-mawr [...]phes [...]ne grea [...] [...]ted was [...]ght here. farther [...]nfirmati [...] whereof, also that [...]ese Stones [...] S [...]p [...]l [...] Mo [...]ents, is [...]t a sma [...]l [...]ock on [...]e S [...]th [...] them is [...]'d R [...]yd [...], [...] G [...]aves- [...]. was discover'd, by digging about a rude stone, which together with some others, is pitch'd on end at a place call'd Kae y maes mawr † in the parish of Lhan Rhwydrus.’ [Of these stones there are but three now standing; and those in a manner triangularly. One of them is eleven foot and a half high, four foot broad, and fourteen inches thick; another about three yards high, and four foot broad; and the third ten foot high, eight in breadth, and but six inches thick.]
‘As for inscrib'd Stones; I have noted only two in this County: one whereof was a kind of square pillar in the parish of Lhan Babo, of about ten foot in height, one in breadth, and near the same thickness. I never was so curious as to copy the Inscription; and I am told it's now too late, it being broken in several pieces. The other is in my neighbourhood, but is so obscure, that I scarce think it worth while to trouble you with a Copy of it.’ I could read only — Filius Ulrici erexit hunc Lapidem. [This Monument was perhaps erected by some Dane or Norwegian, Ulricus seeming to be rather a Danish name than British.]
‘I can give you no certain information of any Coyns found here, except a large gold Medal of Julius Constantius Figured Num. 20., which was found on the plow'd land at a place call'd Tre' Varthin, about the year 1680. and was afterwards added by the late Sir Thomas Mostyn, to his curious Collection of Antiquities, &c.’
Thus far Mr. Davies; since the date of whose Letter I receiv'd a Copy of the Inscription he mentions at Lhan Babo, from the Reverend Mr. Robert Humphreys, Rector of Lhan Vechelh. For tho' the Stone be (as he mentions) broken in two pieces, and remov'd from the place where it stood; the Inscription, whatever it may import, is yet preserv'd; which tho' I understand not my self, I shall however insert here, because I know not but it may be intelligible to several Readers, and so give some light towards the explaining of other Inscriptions.
This Monument is call'd Maen Lhanol, corruptly I suppose for Maen Lhineol, i.e. Lapis insculptus sive lineolis exaratus: for there's such another, known by that name, at Penbryn parish in Cardiganshire. It seems scarce questionable but this stone, as well as those others above-mention'd, was a Sepulchral Monument; and that the words Hic jacet end the Inscription.
[b] These words Yn Hericy Gwidil, I suppose to have been erroneously printed for Kerig y Gwydhel, i.e. Irish stones; for we find a place so call'd in the parish of Lhan Gristiolis. But I think we may not safely conclude from that name, either that the Irish had any settlement in these parts, or that there was any memorable action here betwixt that Nation and the Britains; seeing it relates only to one man, who perhaps might be buried at that place, and a heap of stones cast on his grave, as has been usual in other places. I also make some doubt, whether those Monuments our Author mentions by the name of Hibernicorum Casulae, or Irish Huts, be any proof that ever the Irish dwelt there; for they are only some vast rude stones laid together in a circular order, enclosing an Area of about five yards diameter, and are so ill shaped, that we cannot suppose them the foundations of any higher building: and as they are, they afford no shelter or other conveniency for Inhabitants. Those I meant, are to be seen in a Wood near Lhygwy, the Seat of the worshipful Pierce Lloyd Esq and are commonly call'd Killieu'r Gwydhêlod, i.e. Irish Cotts; whence I infer they must be the same which Mr. Camden calls Hibernicorum Casulas.
A Monument of this kind, tho' much less, may be seen at Lhech yr Ast in the parish of Lhan Goedmor near Cardigan, which was doubtless erected in the time of Heathenism and Barbarity; but to what end, I dare not pretend to conjecture. The same may be said of these Killieu'r Gwydhèlod, which I presume to have been so call'd by the vulgar, only because they have a tradition, that before Christianity, the Irish were possess'd of this Island, and therefore are apt to ascribe to that Nation, such Monuments as seem to them unaccountable; as the Scotish Highlanders refer their circular Stone pillars to the PictsDr. Garden's Letters to Mr. Aubrey.. For we must not suppose such barbarous Monuments can be so late as the end of the sixth Century; about which time ths Irish Commander Sirigi is said to have been slain by Kaswalhawn law hîr (i.e. Cassivelaunus Longimanus) and his people forc'd to quit the IslandSee the Description of Wales before Dr. Powel's History.. We have many places in Wales besides these denominated from the Irish; as Pentre'r Gwydhel in the parish of Rhos Golin in this County; Pont y Gwydhel in Lhan Vair, and Pentre'r Gwydhel in Lhysvaen parish, Denbighshire; Kerig y Gwydhel near Festineog in Meirionydhshire; and in Cardiganshire we find Kwm y Gwydhyl in Penbryn parish, and Karn Philip Wydhil in Lhan Wennog; but having no History to back these names, nothing can be inferr'd from them.
[c] About the year 945,Mr. Robert Vaughan's Manuscript. there was a battel fought for the Isle of Anglesey, betwixt Howel Dha King of Wales, and Kynan ap Edwal Voel, wherein Kynan fell. Afterwards Grufydh his son renewing the war, was likewise overcome; and Kyngar a potent man, being driven out of the Isle, Howel kept quiet possession thereof.
[d] The Welsh name of Newburg is so variously written, that it's doubtful which is the right. In the description of Wales inserted before Dr. Powel's History, it's call'd Rhossyr, and in another impression of the same (which was never publish'd, because not compleated) it's written Rhôs îr, which either alters the signification, or makes it more distinct. In a MS. Copy of the same it's call'd Rhosfir, which we are to read Rhosvir; but Mr. Davies above-mention'd, now Rector of the place, informs me, it ought to be Rhos-Vair; in confirmation whereof he adds this Englin:
[e] In Mr. Aubrey's Monumenta Britannica Mr. Aubr. MS., I observ'd a note of some remarkable Monument near Holy-head, in these words: There is in Anglesey, about a mile from Holy-head, on a hill near the way that leads to Beaumaris, a Monument of huge stones. They are about twenty in number, and between four and five foot high; at the Northern end of it there are two stones about six foot high. They stand upon a hillock in a Farm call'd Trevigneth, and have no other name than LhecheuId est, Flat-stones., whence the field where they are rais'd is call'd Kae'r Lhecheu.
The first who took the title of Earl from this Island, was Christopher Villers, E [...] [...] brother of George Duke of Buckingham, created Sept. 24. 1623. who was succeeded by Charles his son and heir. But he dying in the year 1659. without issue male, it was conferr'd on Arthur Annesley, created Lord Annesley of Newport-Pagnel (in the County of Bucks) and Earl of Anglesey, Apr. 20. 1661. At present it is enjoy'd by the right honourable James Annesley.
DENBIGHSHIRE.
ON this side the river Conwy, Denbighshire, call'd in British Sîr Dhinbech, retires in from the sea, and is extended eastward as far as the river Dee. It is encompass'd on the north for some space by the sea, and afterwards by the small County of Flint; on the west by Meirionydh and Mongomery, and on the east by Cheshire and Shropshire.
The western part of it is somewhat barren; the middle, where it falls into a vale, exceeding fruitful; the eastern part next the vale not so fertil; but towards Dee much better. Towards the west, but that it is somewhat more fruitful by the sea-side, 'tis but thinly inhabited, and swells pretty much with bare and craggy hills: but the diligence and industry of the husbandmen hath long since begun to conquer the barrenness of the land on the sides of these mountains, as well as other places of Wales. For having pared off the surface of the earth, with a broad iron instrument for that purpose, into thin clods and turfs, they pile them up in heaps, and burn them to ashes; which being afterwards scatter'd on the land thus pared, does so enrich them, that it's scarce credible what quantities of Rye they produce. Nor is this method of burning the ground any late invention, but very ancient, as appears out of Virgil and Horace.
Amongst these Hills is a place call'd Kerig y Drudion, or Druid-stones [a]; and at Voelas there are some small pillars, inscrib'd with strange letters, which some suspect to be the characters used by the Druids [b]. Not far from Klokainog we read this Inscription on a stone.
TOVISATOC. [c].
Towards the Vale, where these mountains begin to be thinner, lies Denbigh, D [...]n [...]igh. seated on a steep rock, nam'd formerly by the Britains Kled-vryn yn Rhôs, which signifies the craggy hill in Ros; for so they call that part of the County, which K. Edw. 1. bestow'd, with many other large possessions, on Davidh ap Grufydh, brother of Prince Lhewelyn. But he being soon after attainted of high treason and beheaded, King Edward granted it to Henry Lacy Earl of Lincoln, who fortified it with a very strong wall (though of a small circumference,) and on the south-side with a castle, adorn'd with high towers. But his only son being unfortunately drown'd in the Castle-well, he was so much griev'd thereat, that he desisted from the work, leaving it unfinish'd. After his decease, this town, with the rest of his inheritance, descended by his daughter Alice to the house of Lancaster. From whom also, when that family decay'd, it devolv'd first, by the bounty of King Edw. 2. to Hugh Spenser, and afterwards to Roger Mortimer 1, by covenant with King Edw. 3. For his Arms are seen on the chief gate. But he being sentenced to dye, and executed, it2 fell to William Montacute 3 Earl of Salisbury4; tho' soon after [restor'd] to the Mortimers; and by these at length came to the House of York. For we read that out of malice to K. Edw. 4. (who was of that house) this town suffer'd much by those of the family of Lancaster. Since which time, either because the inhabitants disliked the situation of it (for the declivity of the place was no ways convenient,) or else because it was not well serv'd with water; they remov'd hence by degrees: insomuch, that the old town is now deserted, and a new one, much larger, sprung up at the foot of the hill; which is so populous, that the Church not being large enough for the inhabitants, they have now begun to build a new one, where the old town stood; partly at the charges of their Lord Robert Earl of Leicester, and partly with the money contributed for that use by several well-disposed persons throughout England. This Robert Earl of Leicester was created Baron of Denbigh by Queen Elizabeth in the year 15665. Nor is there any Barony in England that hath more Gentlemen holding thereof in see.
We are now come to the heart of the County,Dr [...] C [...]ry. where nature having remov'd the mountains on all hands (to shew us what she could do in a rough Country) hath spread out a most pleasant vale; extended from south to north 17 miles, and about 5 in breadth. It lies open only to the Ocean, and to the [...]r [...] B [...]. clearing North-wind, being elsewhere guarded with high mountains, which (towards the east especially) are like battlements or turrets; for by an admirable artifice of nature, the tops of these mountains seem to resemble the turrets of walls. Amongst them, the highest is call'd Moel Enlhi: at the top whereof I observ'd a military fence or rampire [d], and a very clear Spring. This vale is exceeding healthy, fruitful, and affords a pleasant prospect: the complexion of the inhabitants bright and chearful; their heads of a sound constitution; their sight very lively, and even their old age vigorous and lasting. The green meadows, the corn-fields, and the numerous villages and Churches in this vale, afford us the most pleasant prospect imaginable. The river Clwyd, Clwy [...] [...] from the very fountain-head runs through the midst of it, receiving on each side a great number of rivulets. And from hence it has been formerly call'd Ystrad Klwyd; for Marianus makes mention of a King of the Strad-cluid-Welsh: and at this day 'tis call'd Dyffryn Klwyd, i.e. the Vale of Cluid; where,See Ca [...] na [...]. [...] Ann [...] as some Authors have deliver'd, certain Britains coming out of Scotland, planted a Kingdom, having first driven out the English which were seated there.
In the south part of this vale, on the east-side of the river, lies the town of Ruthin, in Welsh Rhuthyn; the greatest market in the vale, and a very populous town; famous not long since, for a stately castle, which was capable of a very numerous family. Both the town and castle were built6 by Roger Grey, with permission of the King, the Bishop of St. Asaph, and the Rector of Lhan Rhûdh, it being seated in that [Page] parish. To this Roger Grey, in consideration of his service against the Welsh, King Edward 1. granted almost the whole Vale; and this was the seat of his posterity (who flourish'd under the title of Earls of Kent) till the time of Richard Grey Earl of Kent and Lord of Ruthin; who dying without issue, and having no regard to his brother Henry, sold this ancient inheritance to King Henry 7. since which time the castle has daily decay'd. Of late, through the bounty of Queen Elizabeth, it belong'd to Ambrose Earl of Warwick, together with large revenues in this Vale.
Having ascended eastward out of this Valley, we come to Iâl, a small mountainous tract, of a very high situation, if compared with the neighbouring country. For no river runs into it from any other country, tho' it pours out several. Upon account of this high situation, 'tis a very rough and bleak country; and much subject to winds. I know not whether it might receive it's name from the small river Alen, which springing up in this country, by undermining the earth hides it self in one or two places These mountains are well stored with oxen, sheep, and goats; and the valleys in some places are pretty fertil in corn; especially on the east part, on this side Alen: but the western is somewhat barren, and in some places mere heath and desart. It hath nothing in it memorable, except the ruins of a small monastery7; seated very pleasantly in a valley, which amongst woody hills, is extended in the form of a cross: whence it had the name of Vale-Crucis; [...]e- [...]is. whereas in British 'tis call'd Lhan Gwest. Eastward of Iâl, the territory of Maelor Gymraeg or Welsh Maelor, call'd in English Bromfield, is extended to the river Dee; a pleasant small country, [...]d. and well stored with lead, especially near Mwyn-glodh, a small village, denominated from the lead-mines.
In this part lies Wrexham, [...]exham. call'd in Saxon Writtlesham, remarkable for a very neat tower, and the Organ there: and near this place is Leonis Castrum, so call'd perhaps from the Legio vicesima Victrix; which kept garrison a little higher, on the other side Dee. 'Tis now call'd Holt, [...]t. and is supposed to have been more lately repair'd by William Stanley, and formerly by John Earl of Warren,D. Powel. who being guardian in trust to one Madok a British Prince, seis'd for his own use this Province, together with that of Iâl. From the Earls of Warren, it descended afterwards to the Fitz-Alans, Earls of Arundel; and from them to8 William Beauchamp Baron of Aber Gavenny: and afterward to9 William Stanley; who being beheaded, this, as well as the rest of his estate, was forfeited to the Crown.
Southward of Bromfield, lies Chirk, Chirk. call'd in Welsh Gwayn, a country also pretty mountainous, but honour'd with two castles; viz. Chirk, whence it receiv'd its name; which was built by Roger Mortimer: and Kastelh Dinas Brân, Castle Dinas. seated on the highest top of a sharp hill, whereof there remain at present only some ruinous walls. The common people affirm, that this was built and so call'd by Brennus Brennus. General of the Gauls; and some interpret the name, the King's palace: for Bren in British signifies a King; (from whence possibly that powerful Prince of the Gauls and Britains was call'd by way of eminency; Brennus:) but others will have it derive its name from the situation on a hill, which the Britains call Bryn: and this, in my opinion, is the seat of Grufydh ap Madok, who when he sided with the English against the Welsh, was wont to secure himself here. But upon his decease, Roger Mortimer, who was appointed guardian to his son Lhewelyn, seis'd this Chirk into his own hands; as John Earl of War [...]en, mention'd before, had usurp'd Bromfield.
When the dominion of the Welsh, by factions among themselves, and invasions of the English, fell to decay, and could now subsist no longer; the Earls of Chester and Warren, the Mortimers, Lacy, and the Greys (whom I have mention'd) were the first of the Normans that reduced, by degrees, this small Province, and left it to be possess'd by their posterity. Nor was it made a County before the time of King Henry 8. when Radnor, Brecknock, and Montgomery, were likewise made Counties by Authority of Parliament.
It contains 57 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to DENBIGHSHIRE.
[a] THat Kerrig y Drùdion was so denominated from Druids, seems highly probable, tho' not altogether unquestionable: for that the word Drùdion signifies Druids, is, for what I can learn, only presumed from its affinity with the Latin Druidae; and because we know not any other signification of it. In the British Lexicon we find no other word than Derwŷdhon [...]ied by [...]y [...]b [...]ar [...]c [...] c. [...]o wit 1240. [...] [...]yr [...] Bry [...] [...]awr [...] Nat. [...] c. 44. for Druids, which may be fitly render'd in Latin Quercetani; Dèrw signifying in Welsh, Oaktrees; which agreeing in sound with the Greek, might occasion † Pliny's conjecture (who was better acquainted with that language than the Celtic or British) that Druides was originally a Greek name. The singular of Derwydhon is Derwydh, which the Romans could not write more truly than Deruida, whereof Druida seems only an easier variation. The word Drudion might likewise only vary in dialect from Derwydhon, and so the name of this place be rightly interpreted by our Countrymen and Mr. Camden, Druid-stones; but what stones they were that have been thus call'd, is a question I could not be thoroughly satisfied in, tho' I have made some enquiry. The most remarkable stone-monuments now remaining in this parish, are two of that kind we call Kistieu maen or Stone-chests; whereof some have been mention'd in other Counties, and several omitted as not differing materially from those I had describ'd. These I have not seen my self; but find the following account of them, in a Letter from an ingenious Gentleman of this neighbourhood. As for ancient Inscriptions either of the Druids or others, I believe it's in vain to glean for them in these parts after Mr. Camden. Nor can those he mentions at Voelas in our neighbourhood (as we may collect from their characters) boast of any great antiquity: for that they are so obscure and intricate, I impute to the unskilfulness of the stone-cutter, supposing they were not plainly legible in those times that first saw them. Yet that grave and learned Antiquary (as is commonly incident to strangers in their perambulation) hath either forgotten, or not observ'd, the most remarkable pieces of Antiquity in this parish of Kerig y Drudion: I mean those two solitary prisons which are generally supposed to have been used in the time of the Druids. They are placed about a furlong from each other, and are such huts, that each prison can well contain but a single person. One of them is distinguish'd by the name of Karchar Kynrik Rŵth, or Kenric Rŵth's Prison; but who he was, is altogether uncertain. The other is known by no particular title, but that of Kist-vâen or Stone-chest; which is common to both, and seems to be a name lately given them; because they are somewhat of the form of large chests, from which they chiefly differ in their opening or entrance. They stand north and south, and are each of them composed of seven stones. Of these, four being above six foot long, and about a yard in breadth, are so placed as to resemble the square [Page 683-684] tunnel of a Chimney: a fifth, which is not so long, but of the same breadth, is pitch'd at the South end thereof, firmly to secure that passage. At the North-end is the entrance where the sixth stone is the lid and especial guard of this close confinement. But in regard 'twas necessary to remove it when any person was imprison'd or releas'd, it's not of that weight as to be alone a sufficient guard of the prisoner, and therefore on the top-stone or uppermost of the four first mention'd, lyes the seventh, which is a vast stone, that with much force was remov'd towards the North-end, that with its weight it might fasten, and as it were clasp the door-stone. These, and the name of our parish, are all the memorials we have of the residence of those ancient Philosophers the Druids, at leastwise all that tradition ascribes to them, &c.
Thus far the Letter: which makes it very probable that these are some of the Stones (if not all) whence this parish receiv'd the name of Kerrig y Drudion; and adds not a little to Mr. Aubrey's conjecture, that those rude Stones erected in a circular order, so common in this Island, are also Druid-MonumentsSee Penbrokshire.: seeing that in the midst of such circles we sometimes find Stone chests, not unlike those here describ'd; as particularly that of Karn Lhechart, mention'd in Glamorganshire; which without all doubt was design'd for the same use with these. But that any of them were used as Prisons in the time of the Druids, does not at all appear from this account of them; there being no other argument for it, than that one of them is call'd Karchar Kynric Rŵth; whereas that Kynric Rŵth, as I find in an anonymous Welsh write [...] A MS in the hands of Tho. Price of Lhan Vylhin Esq, was only a tyrannical person in this neighbourhood (of no antiquity in comparison of the Druids) who shutting up some that had affronted him in one of these Cells, occasion'd it to be call'd his Prison ever after. What use they were of in the time of the Druids, we must leave to further enquiry; but that they really are some of their Monuments, I scarce question. Whether they were ever encompass'd with circles of stones like Karn Lhechart above-mention'd, or with a wall as the Kist-vâen on Mynydh y Drymmeu in the same County, is altogether uncertain. For in this revolution of time, such stones might be carried off by the neighbours, and applied to some use; as we find has been lately done in other placesV. Ty Ilhtud at Lh [...]n Hammwlch, Br [...]ck [...]ckshire..
These Druid-stones put me in mind of a certain relique of their Doctrine, I have lately observ'd to be yet retain'd amongst the vulgar. For how difficult it is to get rid of such erroneous opinions as have been once generally receiv'd (be they never so absur'd and ridiculous) may be seen at large in the excellent Treatise written upon that subject by Sir Thomas Brown. In most parts of Wales we find it a common opinion of the vulgar, that about Midsummer-Eve (tho' in the time they do not all agree) 'tis usual for snakes to meet in companies, and that by joyning heads together and hissing, a kind of Bubble is form'd like a ring about the head of one of them, which the rest by continual hissing blow on till it comes off at the tail, and then it immediately hardens, and resembles a glass ring; which whoever finds (as some old women and children are perswaded) shall prosper in all his undertakings. The rings they suppose to be thus generated, are call'dGl [...]ne, in the Irish signifies Glass. In Gl [...]morga [...]shire and Monmouthshire these Rings are call'd Ma [...]n Magl. Gleineu Nadroedh, i.e. Gemmae Anguinae, whereof I have seen at several places about twenty or thirty. They are small glass Annulets, commonly about half as wide as our finger-rings, but much thicker; of a green colour usually, tho' some of them are blue, and others curiously wav'd with blue, red, and white. I have also seen two or three earthen rings of this kind, but glaz'd with blue, and adorn'd with transverse streaks or surrows on the out-side. The smallest of them might be supposed to have been glass-beads worn for ornament by the Romans; because some quantity of them, together with several Amber-beads, have been lately discover'd at a Stone-pit near Garvord in Berkshire, where they also find some pieces of Roman Coyn; and sometimes dig up skeletons of men, and pieces of Arms and Armour. But it [...]ay be objected, that a battel being fought there betwixt the Romans and Britains, as appears by the Bones and Arms they discover, these glass-beads might as probably pertain to the latter. And indeed it seems to me very likely that these Snake-stones (as we call them) were used as charms or amulets amongst our Druids of Britain, on the same occasions as the Snake-eggs amongst the Gaulish Druids. For Pliny, who liv'd when those Priests were in request, and saw one of their Snake-eggs, gives us the like account of the origin of them, as our common people do of their Glain Neidr, which being but short, may be added, that the Reader may with less trouble compare them —Praeterea est ovorum genus in magna Galliarum fama, omissum Graecis. [...]. Angues innumeri aestate convoluti, salivis faucium corporumque spumis artifici complexu glomerantur; anguinum appellatur. Druidae sibilis id dicunt in sublime jactari, sagóque oportere intercipi, ne tellurem attingat. Profugere raptorem equo: Serpentes enim insequi, donec arceantur amnis alicujus interventu. Experimentum ejus esse si contra aquas fluitet vel auro vinctum. Atque ut est Magorum solertia occultandis fraudibus sagax, certâ Lunâ capiendum censent, tanquam congrueré operationem eam serpentium, humani sit arbitrii. Vidi equidem id Ovum mali orbiculati modici magnitudine, crusta cartilaginis, velut acetabulis brachiorum Polypi crebris, insigne Druidis. Ad victorias litium ac regum aditus mire laudatur: tantae vanitatis ut habentem id in lite in sinu equitem Romanum è Vocontiis, à Divo Claudio principe interemptum non ob aliud sciam, &c.
Thus we find it very evident, that the opinion of the vulgar concerning the generation of these Adder-beads or Snake-stones, is no other than a relique of the Superstition, or perhaps Impostor of the Druids. But whether these we call Snake-stones, be the very same Amulets the British Druids made use of; or whether this fabulous origin was ascribed formerly to something else, and in after times applied to these glass-beads, I shall not undertake to determine; tho' I think the former much more probable. As for Pliny's Ovum anguinum, it can be no other than a [...]ell (either marine or fossil) of that kind we call E hinus marinus, whereof one sort (tho' not the same he describes) is call'd at this day in most parts of Wales where they are found, Wyeu'r môr, i.e. Sea-eggs. I had almost forgotten to add, that sometimes these glass Annulets were struck through a larger ring of Iron, and that again through another much larger of Copper, as appears by one of them found in the river Cherwell near Hampton Gag in Oxfordshire, and figur'd and describ'd by Dr. Plot in his Natural History of that CountyPag [...]. N [...].. To these Amulets (but whether British or Roman I know not) that small brass HeadAnc [...] mer [...] and has sa [...] gere [...] [...] [...] ca [...], figur'd numb. 18. must be referr'd; which was found in a Well somewhere in this Country, together with certain brass Snakes, and some other figures now lost, all hung about a wire.
[b] I doubt not but our Author has excited the Curiosity of most lovers of Antiquity, in mentioning small pillars inscrib'd with strange characters, supposed to be those used by the Druids. But if the following Inscription be one of those he meant, 'twill scarce be allow'd to be half so old as their time. The pillar whence 'twas copied is a hard, rough stone, somewhat of a square form, about ten foot in length; and is now to be seen at Voelas, the place where he informs us those pillars were erected. The Copy here inserted was sent me by my worthy friend Mr. Griffith Jones, School-master of Lhan Rwst, who I doubt not hath transcrib'd it from the Monument, with great accuracy.
This Inscription is so very obscure and different from all I have seen elsewhere, that it seems scarce intelligible. However, I shall take the liberty of offering my thoughts, which the' they should prove erroneous, may yet give some hint to others to discover the true reading. I have added under each Character the Letters I suppose to be intended; which if I rightly conjecture make these words:
Which I suppose, according to our modern Orthography, might be written thus:
The meaning whereof is, That one John, of the house of Dyleu Gwydhelen, &c. on the Road of Ambrose-wood Hill, erected this Monument to the memory of the excellent Prince, Lhewelin. But who this Lhewelyn was, I must leave to be determin'd by others. If any of the three Princes of that name recorded in the Annals of Wales, it must be the first, or Lhewelyn ap Sitsylht, who was slain, but where is not mention'd, by Howel and M'redydh the sons of Edwyn, in the year 1021. For we find that Lhewelyn ap Jorwerth was honourably buried in the Abbey of Conwy, Anno 1240 [...] P [...]wel, [...].. and his Stone-coffin remov'd upon the dissolution, to the Church of Lhan Rŵst, where 'tis yet to be seen. And that Lhewelyn ap Grufydh the last Prince of Wales of the British Race, [...]. was slain near Bualht in Brecknockshire; so that his body was in all likelyhood interr'd somewhere in that Country, tho' his head was fixt on the Tower of London.
[c] The other Inscription, our Author mentions at Clocainog, is doubtless an Epitaph of some Souldier of note, who can be but very little, if at all later than the Romans. This stone being yet preserv'd in the same place, I have procur'd a Copy of the Inscription from my singular Friend the Reverend Mr. John Lloyd, School-master at Ruthyn, which is here added because somewhat different from that of Mr. Camden.
TOVISAG.
The name Aimilinus, we are to understand, as the same with Aemilinus, and that no other than Aemilianus. Thus amongst Rein [...]s [...]us's Ins [...]riptions, p. 228. we find M. AIMILIVS for M. Aemilius. And in the same Author, pag 560. we have two or three examples of the letter A. in the same form with the first character of this Inscription. As for the second word, I am in some doubt whether we ought to read it Tovisag or Tovisaci: if the former, 'tis British, and signifies a Leader or General Tywysog. Dux, Princeps; from the Verb Tywyso to lead; as the Latin Dux from Duco.: and if the latter, it seems only the same word latiniz'd. Mr. Lloyd adds, that the place where this stone lyes is call'd Bryn y Bedheu, which signifies the Hill of Graves, and that there is near it an artificial Mount or Tumulus, call'd y Krig-Vryn, which may be english'd Barrow-hill See Radnorshire. Annot. [c].. Also that on the Hills adjoyning there are several Circles of Stones; and in the same neighbourhood a place call'd Rhôs y Gadva, or Battel field.
[d] There are divers old Forts or Entrenchments in this County, that seem no less remarkable, than that our Author observ'd at Moel Enlhi; some of which are mention'd in Mr. Lloyd's Letter. As first, Pen y Gaer vawr on Kader Dhimmael, distant about a mile from Kerrig y Drudion; which is a circular Ditch and Rampire of at least 100 paces diameter. But what seems most remarkable, is, that 'tis presum'd to have had once some kind of wall; and that the stones have been long since carried away by the neighbours, and applied to some private uses. Secondly, Kaer Dhynod, or as others, Kaer y Dhynod, which lyes (as also Pen y Gaer) in the Parish of Lhan Vihangel. This is situate close by the river Alwen, and is rather of an oval form than circular. The Dike or Rampire consists of a vast quantity of stones, at present rudely heap'd together, but whether formerly in any better order, is uncertain. On the river side it's about 300 foot high perpendicularly, but not half that height elsewhere. On the other side the river we have a steep Hill, about twice the height of this Kaer Dhynod; on which lyes Kaer-Vorwyn, i.e. Maiden-Fort, a large circular Entrenchment, and much more artificial than the former. This Kaer Dhynod (as Mr. Lloyd supposes) was in all likelyhood a British Camp, seeing it agrees exactly with Tacitus's description of the Camp of King Caratacus, when he engaged Ostorius Scapula somewhere in this Country of the Ordovices—Sumpto ad praelium loco, ut aditus, abscessus, cuncta nobis importuna, & suis in melius esset: tunc montibus arduis, & si qua clementer accedi poterant, in modum valli saxa praestruit: & praefluebat amnis vado incerto, &c ‖. Thirdly, Dinas Melin y Wŷg, which he supposes to have been a British Oppidum, it being much such a place as Caesar informs us they call'd so, in these words: Oppidum Britanni vocant cum Sylvas impeditas vallo atque fossâ munierunt, quo incursionis hostium vitandae causa, convenire consueverunt Tacit. Annal. 12. c. 33.. This place, as the word Gwŷg implies, is full of Woods, Dingles, &c. The Fortification rises about fifteen or twenty yards where lowest; and is faced for the most part with a craggy Rock, and encompass'd with a deep Trench, having two Entries calld'd y Porth ùcha and Porth isa, or the upper and lower Gates.
In the year 1622. William Vicount Fielding, Lord St. Lis, and Baron of Newnham Padox, was created Earl of Denbigh;Earls of Denbigh. and was succeeded by Basil his son. To whom succeeded William Fielding Earl of Desmond, his Nephew; and at present it gives the same title to the Right Honourable Basil Fielding.
FLINTSHIRE.
ON the North of Denbigh lyes Flintshire, a very small County, of an oblong form; wash'd on the North by the Irish Sea, or rather by a branch of it being the chanel of the Dee; bounded on the East by Cheshire, and elsewhere by Denbighshire.
We cannot properly call it mountainous, for it only rises gently with lower hills, and falls by degrees into fertil plains; which (towards the Sea especially) every first year they are plow'd, bear in some places Barley, in others Wheat, but generally Rye, with at least twenty-fold increase; and afterwards Oats for four or five years. On the West it descends to the Maritim part of the Vale of Cluid, and takes up the upper end of that Vale.
In the Confines of this County and Denbighshire, where the Mountains with a gentle declivity seem to retire, and afford an easier pass into the Vale, the Romans built, at the very entrance, a small City, call'd Varis Varis. [a]; which Antoninus places 19 miles from Conovium. This, without the least diminution of its name, is call'd at this day Bod Vari Vulgo Bod Farri., which signifies the Mansion of Varus; and shews the ruins of a City, on a small hill adjoyning, call'd Moel y Gaer, i.e. the City-hill. What the name signifies, is not evident. I have formerly suppos'd that Varia in the old British signified a Pass, and accordingly have interpreted Durnovaria, and Isannaevaria, The Passage of the water and of Isanna. Nor does the situation of this Town contradict my conjecture, it being seated at the only convenient Pass through these Mountains.
Not three miles hence lyes Kaer-wysk; Caer-wisk. which name tho' it savour much of Antiquity, yet I observ'd nothing there either ancient, or worth notice.
Below this Varis, the river Cluid runs through the Vale, and is immediately joyn'd by Elwy, at the confluence whereof there's a Bishop's See, call'd in British from the name of the river, Lhan Elwy; in English from the Patron, St. Asaph, S. Asaph. and in Historians Episcopatus Asaphensis. Neither the Town is memorable for its neatness, nor the Church for its structure or elegancy; yet in regard of its antiquity, it is requisite we should mention it. For about the year 560.Capgrave. Kentigern Bishop of Glascow fleeing from Scotland, instituted here an Episcopal Seat and a Monastery, placing therein six hundred and sixty three Monks; whereof three hundred being illiterate, were appointed for tilling the Land; the same number for other employments within the Monastery; and the rest for Divine Service: and all these he so distributed into Convents, that some of them attended at prayers continually. Upon his return afterwards into Scotland, he appointed Asaph, a most upright and devout man, Governour of this Monastery; from whom it receiv'd its present name. The Bishop of this Diocese has under his jurisdiction about 128 Parishes; the Ecclesiastical Benefices whereof (in case of vacancy in the See,) until the time of Henry the 8. were in the disposal of the Arch-bishop, by the Archiepiscopal right, which is now a Prerogative of the Crown. For so we find it recorded in the History of Canterbury.
Higher up, Rhudhlan, Rhu [...]hlan. so call'd from the reddish bank of the river Cluid where 'tis seated, shews a very fair Castle, but almost decay'd with age. 'Twas built by Lhewelyn ap Sitsilht, Prince of Wales; and first wrested out of the Welshmens hands by Robert de Ruthlan,Nepos. (‖ nephew of Hugh E. of Chester) and fortified with new works, by the said Hugh's Lieutenant. Afterwards as the Abbot de Monte informs us, King Henry the second having repair'd this Castle, gave it to Hugh Beauchamp [b]. Below this Castle, the river Cluid is discharged into the Sea, and tho' the Valley at the mouth of this river, does seem lower than the Sea, yet it is never overflown; but by a natural, tho' invisible impediment, the water stands on the very brink of the shore, to our just admiration of Divine Providence.
The shore descending gradually Eastward from this place, passes first by Disart castle, so call d from its steep situation, or (as others will have it) quasi Desert; and thence by Basingwerk, Basing [...]rk which also Henry the second granted to Hugh Beauchamp.
Under this place I view'd Holy-well, Holy-wel. a small Town where there's a Well much celebrated for the memory of Winfrid S. Winf [...]d. a Christian Virgin, ravish'd here, and beheaded by a Tyrant; as also for the moss it yields of a very sweet scent. Out of this Well a small Brook flows (or rather breaks forth through the stones, on which are seen I know not what kind of blood red spots:) and runs with such a violent course, that immediately it's able to turn a mill. Upon this very Fountain there's a Chapel, which with neat workmanship, was hewn out of the live-Rock; and a small Church adjoyning thereunto, in a window whereof is painted the History and Execution of St. Winifrid 1. Giraldus2 writes that in his time there was not far from hence a rich vein of silver, where (says he) in search of that metal—Itum est in viscera terrae [c]. That part of this Country, because it affords the most pleasant prospect, and was long since reduced by the English, was call'd by the Britains Têg-Eingl, which signifies Fair England. But whereas a certain Author has call'd it Tegenia, and supposes the Igeni dwelt there, let the reader be cautious how he assents to it. For that worthy Author was deceiv'd by a corrupt name of the Iceni.
From the shore at this place, we see Flint-castle, Flint. which gave name to this County; begun by King Henry 2. and finish'd by Edward 1.3. Beyond that, on the eastern limit of the County, next Cheshire, lies Hawarden-castle, near the shore, call'd commonly Harden Harde [...]. B [...]i [...]. Pe [...] nardhalawg. Vaugh [...]; out of which when Davidh, brother of Prince Lhewelyn, had led captive Roger Clifford Justiciary of Wales; he brought a most dismal war on himself and his countrymen, whereby their Dominion in Wales was wholly overthrown. This castle, which was held by Senescalship of the Earls of Chester, was the seat of the Barons of Mount-hault, Barons of Monthau [...] who became a very illustrious family; and bore azure a Lion rampant argent: and also encreas'd their honour, by marriage with Cecilia one of the daughters of Hugh D'Albany Earl of Arundel. But the issue-male being at last extinct, Robert, the last Baron of this family (as we have mention'd already) made it over to Queen Isabella, wife of King Edw. 2. but the possession of the castle was afterwards transferr'd to the Stanleys, who are now Earls of Derby.
Below these places, the south part of this Country is water'd by the little river Alen, near which, on a mountain at a village call'd Kilken, there's a spring which like the sea ebbs and flows at set times [d]. On this river Alen lies Hope castle, Hope-cast [...] call'd in Welsh Kaer Gwrle, (into this King Edward 1. retired when the Welsh had surpriz'd his Army:) near which there are milstonesMilstones. hewn out of a rock: and likewise Mold, call'd in British Y Wydhgrig, the castle formerly of the Barons of Monthault [e]; both which shew many tokens of antiquity. Near Hope, whilst I was drawing up these notes, a certain Gardener digging somewhat deep, discover'd a very ancient work; concerning which, several have made various conjectures: but whoever consults M. Vitruvius Pollio, will find it no other than the beginning of a Hypocaust of the Romans, who growing luxurious as their wealth increas'd, used BathsBaths. very much. It was five ells long, four broad, and about half an ell in height; encompass'd [Page 689-690] with walls hewn out of the live-rock. The floor was of brick set in mortar; the roof was supported with brick pillars; and consisted of polish'd tiles, which at several places were perforated: on these were laid certain brick tubes, which carried off the force of the heat; and thus, as the Poet saith, Volvebant hypocausta vaporem. Now who can suppose but that they were such Hypocausts, which Giraldus so much admired at Kaer Lheion in Monmouthshire; when he writ thus of the Roman works there: And which seems more particularly remarkable, you may see there several stoves, contriv'd with admirable skill, breathing heat insensibly through small pipes, &c. Whose work this was, appears by this Inscription on some tiles there, LEGIO XX. for the twentieth Legion which was stiled Victrix, as we have shewn already, lay in garrison at Chester, scarce six miles hence.
Near unto this river Alen, in a narrow place beset with woods, lies Coleshull, C [...]eshull. call'd by Giraldus Collis Carbonarius, or a Cole-hill. Where when King Henr. 2. had made all diligent preparation to give battel to the Welsh; the English, by reason of their disorder'd multitude, were defeated, and the King's standard was forsaken by Henry of Essex, who, by right of inheritance, was standard-bearer to the Kings of England. Whereupon being charged with treason, and overcome by his adversary in a duel, and his estate forfeited to the crown; he was so much ashamed of his cowardise, that he put on a hood, and retir'd into a Monastery.
There is another small part of this County, on this side Dee, in a manner wholly divided from the rest, call'd English Maelor; English Maelor. whereof we have taken notice in Cheshire, when we gave some account of Bangor [f], and therefore need not repeat here what we have written already. Nor remains there any thing to be mention'd except Han-mere, Han-mere. seated by a lake or mear; whence that ancient and honourable family that dwells there, took the name of Hanmer.
The Earls of Chester, Earls of Chester. by light skirmishes with the Welsh as occasion and opportunity offer'd, were the first Normans that subdued this County. Whence in ancient records we read, That the County of Flint appertaineth to the dignity of the sword of Chester: and the eldest sons of the Kings of England, were formerly stiled Earls of Chester and Flint. But when it was added to the Crown, King Edward 1.Policy of Edw. 1. supposing it very advantageous, as well to maintain his own, as to bridle the Welsh; kept this and all the maritim parts of Wales in his own hands; and distributed the inland countreys to his Nobles, as he thought convenient: imitating herein the policy of Augustus Caesar, who himself undertook the charge of the outward and most potent Provinces; permitting the rest to the government of Proconsuls by lot. And this he did with a shew of defending his Empire, but in reality, that he might keep the Armies under his own command.
This County hath only 28 Parishes.
ADDITIONS to FLINTSHIRE.
[a] WHether the ancient Varis was seated at the same place we call Bod Farri, I shall not dispute: but the name of Moel y Gaer (which our Author interprets the City-hill) seems but a slender confirmation of it. For we cannot doubt but that place receiv'd it's name from the fortification or entrenchments that are yet to be seen there; the word Kaer (as we have already hinted) signifying strictly, only a Wall, Fortress, or Enclosure; which being prefix'd to the names of Roman towns, because fortified, has occasion'd several to suppose the genuine signification of it to be a Town or City. We have divers camps on our mountains call'd Kaereu, where we have not the least grounds to suspect that ever any Cities were founded; and in some places I have observ'd the Churchyard-wall to be call'd Kaer y Vynwent: nor does it seem improbable that this Kaer was deriv'd originally from Kai, which signifies to shut up, or enclose. This fortification is exactly round, and about 160 paces over: we may frame an idea of it by supposing a round hill with the top cut off, and so made level. All round it, the earth is rais'd in manner of a Parapet, and almost opposite to the Avenue there is a kind of Tumulus or artificial Mount.
‘At this Moel y Gaer, Howel Gwynedh [...] MS. O [...]r [...] [...] ap [...]., (who sided with Owen Glyndwr against King Henry 4.) was beheaded. He was one who for a long time annoy'd the English of his neighbourhood; but being taken at length by his enemies of the town of Flint, and beheaded at this place, his estate was disposed of to one Saxton. Before him, one Owen ap Aldud had also opposed the English in these borders; who by force of arms kept all Tegaingl under his subjection for about three years, until such time as he had obtain'd full pardon.’
I can add nothing in confirmation of our Author's conjecture, that the word Varia signified anciently a Passage; nor can I perceive on what grounds he first suspected it, unless he supposed the Romans might coyn it out of the British Fordh, which signifies a way: but it seems a little too hard the letter d should be wholly omitted; for in such British names as they latiniz'd, we find they generally either retain'd the consonants, or changed them for letters of the same organ. However, though I cannot acquiesce in this Etymology of Varis, yet I dare not assign any other, as not knowing any British word that comes near it, except Gwair (for 'tis a rule confirm'd by at least forty examples, that where the Romans use the letter v. the Britains have gw.) which having no other signification than Hay, makes little to our purpose.
[b] At Rhudhlan (though it be now a mean village) we find the manifest signs of a considerable town: as, of the Abbey and Hospital; and of a gate at least half a mile from the village. One of the towers in the Castle is call'd Tŵr y Brenin, i.e. King's tower; and below the hill, upon the bank of the river, we find another apart from the Castle, call'd Tŵr Silod. Offa King of Mercia, and M'redyth King of Dyved, died in the battel fought at Rhudhlan, in the year 794.Vaugh. MS..
[c] The water of Holywell breaks forth with such a rapid stream, that some ingenious persons have suspected it to be rather a subterraneous rivulet which the miners might have turn'd to that chanel, than a spring; it being their common practice, when they meet with under-ground Currents in their work, to divert them to some Swallow. And this suspicion they confirm with an observation, that after much rain the water often appears muddy, and sometimes of a bluish colour, as if it had wash'd some Lead-mine, or proceeded from Tobacco-pipe clay: adding farther, that this seems to have happen'd since the time of Giraldus Cambrensis, it being not likely that so noble a fountain would have escaped his observation, had it then existed. But though we should grant that Giraldus might neglect the taking notice of so extraordinary a Current; yet we have good grounds to assent to Dr. Powel's opinion, that 'twas not frequented by Pilgrims at that time, nor at all celebrated for miraculous cures, or the memory of St. Beuno and Winifrid, who yet liv'd above five hundred years beforeD. Poveli Not. ad Giraldi Camb. Itin. Cambriae, l. 11. c. 1.. For seeing we find that Author, throughout the whole course of his Journey, was particularly curious and inquisitive about miraculous fountains, stones, bells, chains, &c. we have no reason to presume, [Page 691-692] had this place been noted at that [...] for Winifrid's being restor'd to life by St. B [...]uno, and the miraculous origin of the Fountain thereupon; or for any soveraign virtue of the water in healing Diseases; but he would take care to deliver some account of it to posterity: especially considering that he lodg'd one night at Basingwerk, within half a mile of this place. From hence Dr. Powel very rationally infers, that the Monks of Basingwerk, who were founded above one hundred years after, were (for their own private ends) the first broachers of these fabulous miracles. For (says he) before the foundation of that Abbey (which was in the year 1312.) no writer ever made mention of the Romantic origin and miracles of this Fountain. But I refer the Reader to his own words, more at large, in the place above-cited; being for my own part, of their opinion who think such frivolous Superstitions, are too much honour'd, when we use arguments to confute them.
Of this St. Beuno, who was founder of the Abbey of Klynog Vawr in Caernarvonshire, as also of Ennian who built the Church of Lhan Ennian Vrenin in the same Country, I find some account in Mr. Vaughan's Annotations on the History of Wales, which tho' not so pertinent to this place, I shall add here however, as being willing to make use of the least occasion of publishing any Notes of an Author so well acquainted with the Antiquities of his Country.
St. Beuno, to whom the Abbey of Clynog was dedicated, V [...]nghan's MSS. Notes on Dr. Powel's History. was the son of Hywgi ap Gwynlliw ap Glywis ap Tegid ap Cadell, a Prince or Lord of Glewisig, brother's son to St. Cadoc ap Gwynlliw, sometime Bishop of Beneventum in Italy: he was by the mother's side, Cousin German to Laudatus the first Abbot of Enlli (in English, Bardsey) and to Kentigern Bishop of Glasco in Scotland, and of Llan Elwy in Wales. The said Kentigern's Father was Owen Regent of Scotland, and son of Urien King of Cumbria. Beuno having rais'd to life, as the tradition goes, S. Winifrid (who was put to death by one C'radoc a Lord in North-Wales, because she would not yield to his unchast desires) was much respected by King Cadvan, who gave him Lands, whereon to build a Monastery. Cadwallon Cadvan's son bestow'd also other Lands on him, call'd Gwareddog; where having begun to build a Church, a woman came to him with a child in her arms, and told him those Lands were the inheritance of that Infant. Whereat Beuno being much concern'd, gave orders she should follow him to Caer Seiont (call'd by the Romans Segontium, and now Caernarvon) where King Cadwallon resided. When he came before the King, he told him with a great deal of zeal, he had done ill, to devote to God's service such Lands as were not his own lawful possessions, and demanded he would return a golden Scepter he had given him as a consideration for the said Lands; which when the King refused, he was excommunicated by him. Beuno having pronounced his sentence against him, departed; but Gwyddaint, who was Cousin German to this Prince Cadwellon, being inform'd of what had happen'd, follow'd after him; and overtaking him, gave him (for the good of his own soul and the King's) the Township of Clynnoc vawr, which was his undoubted inheritance; where Beuno built a Church about the year of our Lord 616. about which time Cadvan died, leaving his son Cadwallon to succeed him. Some tell us Beuno restor'd St. Winifrid to life in the year 644. but (whatever we may think of the miracle) that time is not reconcileable to the truth of History.
Not long before this time, Eneon Bhrenin or Anianus Rex Scotorum, a Prince in the North of Britain, leaving his Royalty, came to Llŷn in Gwynedd, where he built a Church, which at this day is call'd from him Llan Eingan Bhrenin, where he spent in God's service the remainder of his days. King Eneon was the son of Owen Danwyn ap Eneon Yrth, ap Cunedha Wledig King of Cambria, and a great Prince in the North. He was Cousin German to Maelgwn Gwynedh King of Britain, whose father was Caswallon Law-hîr brother to Owen Danwyn. The said Mael-gwn died about the year of our Lord 586. Medif, daughter to Voylda ap Talw traws of Nan-conwy, was Maelgon's Mother, &c.
[d] Concerning Fynnon leinw, or the ebbing and flowing Well, mention'd by our Author to be near Kilken; a worthy Gentleman I consulted on this occasion, informs me that 'tis indeed in the Parish of Kilken, but nothing near Kilken-Church or the [...]iver Alen; and that it neither ebbs nor flows at present, tho' the general report is that it did so formerly. But whereas Dr. Powel (whom our Author and others seem to have follow'd) supposes this to be the Fountain to which Giraldus Cambrensis ascrib'd that quality; he is of another opinion, suspecting rather that Giraldus meant Fynnon Assav, a noble Spring, to which they also attribute the same PhaenomenonG [...] G. [...] br. [...] c. [...].. But seeing that Author (tho' a learned and very curious person for the time he liv'd) is often either erroneous or less accurate in his Physiological Observations, it's but seldom worth our while to dispute his meaning on such occasions.
[e] The present name of Mold I suppose to be an abbreviation of the Norman Mont-hault, and that no other than a translation of the British name Gwydhgrig, which signifies a conspicuous Mount or Barrow; for tho' the word Gwydh be not used in that sense at present, yet that it was so anciently is manifest from some names of places, the highest Mountain in Wales being call'd y Wydh va [...]., and the highest Stone-pillar or Monument I have seen there, call'd Hir-vaen gŵydhog O [...] [...] ga [...] An [...] Gwy [...] 1. c. [...] G [...]gan [...]; so that there being a considerable Krig at this place (for so they call artificial Mounts or Barrows in South-Wales) we may safely conclude it thence denominated.
Near this Town, as the learnedUsh [...]. B [...]t [...]. An [...]. [...]. ex C [...] tio [...] Usher supposes, was that celebrated victory (which he calls Victoria Alleluiatica, for that the Pagans were put to flight by the repeated shouts of Alleluia) obtain'd by the Britains under the conduct of Germanus and Lupus, against the Picts and Saxons. Adding, that in memory of that miraculous victory, the place is call'd at this day Maes Garmon, or St. German's Field Mat. [...] the name of pater, s [...]me [...]e imp [...]s [...] bee [...]i [...] there. Vide A [...] g [...].. And whereas it may be objected, That seeing 'tis allow'd St. German died in the year 435. 'twas impossible he should lead the Britains in this Island against the Saxons, for that Hengist and Horsa arriv'd not here till 449See [...] A [...]th [...] [...] cout [...] the [...] Saxons. He answers that long before their time (as appears from Ammianus Marcellinus, Claudian, &c.) the Saxons made frequent inroads into this Island.
It will not perhaps be unacceptable to the Curious, if we take notice here of some delineations of the leaves of Plants, that are found upon sinking new Coal-pits in the Township of Leeswood in this parish. These (tho' they are not much minded) are found probably in most other parts of England and Wales, where they dig Coal; at leastwise I have observ'd them at several Coal-pits in Wales, Glocestershire, and Somersetshire; and have seen considerable variety of them, in that excellent Musaeum of Natural Bodies, collected by Mr. William Cole of Bristol, as also amongst Mr. Beaumont's curious Collection of Minerals. They are found generally in that black flat, or (as the Workmen call it) the slag or cleft which lyes next above the Coal; so that in sinking new Pits, when these mock-plants are brought up, they are apt to conclude the Coal not far off. These are not such faint resemblances of leaves, as to require any fancy to make out the comparison, like the Pietra imboschata, or Landskip-stone of the Italians; but do exhibit the whole form and texture more compleatly than can be done by any Artist, unless he takes off their impressions from the life, in some fine paste or clay. I say, resemblances of leaves, because amongst all the stones I have seen of this kind, I have hitherto observ'd none delineated with any roots or flowers, but always either pieces of leaves or whole ones; or else (which happens but seldom) some singular figures, which I know not what bodies to compare to. Such as those I have seen from these Coal-pits (and the same may be said of others in general) do for the most part resemble the leaves of capillary Plants, or those of the fern-kind: but our observations in this part of Natural History, are as yet in their infancy; and we know not but the bowels of the Earth, were it possible to search them, might afford as great variety of these mock-plants, as the surface contains of those we esteem more perfect. However, [Page] this I shall venture to affirm, that these Plants (whatever may be their origin) are as distinguishable into Species, as those produced in the Surface. For altho' we find (as yet) no resemblance of flowers or seeds, yet the form and texture of these leaves, which are always constant and regular, will soon discover the Species to such as have any skill in Plants, or will take the trouble to compare them nicely with each others. For example; I have observ'd amongst the ruble of one Coalpit, seven or eight Species of Plants, and of each Species twenty or more Individuals.
Whoever would prove these Subterraneous Leaves an effect of the universal Deluge, will meet with the same difficulties (not to mention others,) as occur to those who assign that origin to the fossil shells, teeth and vertebrae of fish, Crabs claws, Corals and Sea-mushrooms, so plentifully dispers'd, not only throughout this Island, but doubtless in all parts of the World. For as amongst the fossil shells of England, we find the greatest part, of a figure and superficies totally different from all the shells of our own Seas; and some of them from all those, the most curious Naturalists have hitherto procured from other Countreys: so amongst these Plants, we find the majority not reconcileable with those produced in this Country, and many of them totally different from all Plants whatever, that have been yet describ'd. But that the Reader may not wholly rely on my Judgment herein, I have [...]dded three figures of such leaves, out of a Coal-pit belonging to the Demeans of Eagle's-Bush near Neath in Glamorganshire.
Fig. 27. represents a Leaf of a Plant which I presume totally different from any yet describ'd. It's about six inches long, but seems to be broken off at each end, and almost two in breadth. The four ribs are a little prominent, somewhat like that of Harts-tongue; as are also the three orders of Characters, betwixt those ribs, which seem in some sort to answer the seeds of such Plants as are call'd dorsiferous, as those of the Hart's-Tongue or Fern-kind.
Fig. 28. resembles a branch of the common female Fern, and agrees with it in superficies and proportion, as well as figure.
Fig. 29. expresses the common Polypody, tho' not so exactly as the 28th imitates the female Fern. This is an elegant Specimen, having the middle rib very prominent, and that of each leaf rais'd proportionably; four inches long, and an inch and a quarter broad.
I find these Mineral Leaves are not only produc'd in the Coal-slats, but sometimes in other Fossils; for I have formerly observ'd of them in Marl-pits near Kàer-wys in this County, which in some measure resembled Oak-leaves: And amongst that valuable Collection of Minerals reposited in the Ashmolean Musaeum, by Dr. Robert Plot, I find a Specimen of Ironore out of Shropshire, delineated with a branch of some undescribed Plant, which from the texture of the leaves I should be apt to refer to the capillary Tribe; tho' the figure (as the Doctor observes in his Catalogue) seems rather to resemble Box-leaves [...]. C [...]ps. [...].. But I shall add no more on this subject, as expecting shortly a particular Treatise of the origin of form'd Stones and other Fossils, from an ingenious person, who for some years has been very diligent in collecting the Minerals of England, and (as far as I am capable of judging) no less happy in his Discoveries.
[f] I find some mention of this Bangor Is-koed (for so tis generally call'd to distinguish it from Bangor in Caernarvonshire) in that Manuscript of Mr. Robert Vaughan's of Hengwrt, so often quoted in these Welsh Counties. Bangor Monachorum (saith he) so call'd from the famous Monastery that was once there, lyes situate in Maelor Seising, or Bromfield, not far from Kaer Lheion, or West-chester. Both Town and Monastery hath so felt the injuries of time, that at this day there are hardly any ruins of them remaining. For we find now only a small Village of the name, and no footsteps of the old City, except the rubbish of the two principal Gates Porth Kleis and Porth Wgan; the former looking towards England, and the latter towards Wales. They are about a mile distant from each other, whence we may conjecture the extent of the City, which lay between these two Gates, the river Dee running through the midst of it. The old British Triades tell us, that in the time of the British Kings there were in the Monastery of Bangor 2400 Monks, who in their turns (viz. a hundred each hour of the 24) read Prayers and sung Psalms continually, so that Divine Service was perform'd day and night without intermission, &c.
¶ It remains now that we make some mention of that remarkable Monument or carv'd Pillar on Mostyn-mountain,Maen y Chwyvan. represented in the Plate by the first and second figures. It stands on the evenest part of the mountain, and is in height eleven foot and three inches above the Pedestal; two foot and four inches broad; and eleven inches thick. The Pedestal is five foot long, four and a half in breadth, and about fourteen inches thick: and the Monument being let thorow it, reaches about five inches below the bottom; so that the whole length of it is about thirteen foot.
The first figure represents the East-side, and that edge which looks to the South; and the second the Western-side with the North-edge; tho' the Sculptures on these edges are grav'd as if they were no part of the stone.
When this Monument was erected, or by what Nation, I must leave to farther enquiry; however, I thought it not amiss to publish these draughts of it, as supposing there may be more of the same kind in some parts of Britain or Ireland or else in other Countries; which being compar'd with this, it might perhaps appear what Nations used them, and upon what occasions. Dr. Plot in his History of Staffordshire, gives us the draughts of a Monument or two which agree very well with it in the chequer'd carving, and might therefore possibly belong to the same NationPlot's Nat. Hist. of Staffordshire, p. 404. & 432.. Those he concludes to have been erected by the Danes, for that there is another very like them at Beau-Castle in Cumberland, inscrib'd with Runick Characters, which is presum'd to have been a Funeral MonumentPhil. Transact. Num. 178.. But the Characters on the East-side of ours, seem nothing like the Runic, or any other letters I have seen, but resemble rather the numeral figures 1221. tho' I confess I am so little satisfied with the meaning of them, that I know not whether they were ever intended to be significative. Within a furlong or less of this Monument, there is an artificial Mount or Barrow (whereof there are also about twenty more in this neighbourhood, call'd y Gorsedheu) where there have been formerly a great many carcases and skulls discover'd, some of which were cut; and one or two particularly had round holes in them, as if pierced with an arrow: upon which account this pillar has been suspected for a Monument of some signal victory; and the rather for that upon digging five or six foot under it, no bones were discover'd, nor any thing else that might give occasion to suspect it Sepulchral.
This monumental Pillar is call'd Maen y Chwyvan, a name no less obscure than the History of it; for tho' the former word signifies a Stone, yet no man understands the meaning of Chwyvan. Were it Gwyvan, I should conclude it corrupted from Gwŷdhvaen, i.e. the high Pillar; but seeing 'tis written Maen y Chufan in an old Deed bearing date 1388. (which scarce differs in pronunciation from Chwyvan) I dare not acquiesce in that Etymology, tho' at present I can think of none more probable.
PRINCES of WALES.
AS for the ancient Princes of Wales of British extraction, I refer the Reader to the Annals of Wales already publish'd: but for the later Princes of the Royal line of England, it seems pertinent to our design, that we add here a short account of them.
Edward the first, (to whom, during his minority, his father Henry the third had granted the Principality of Wales) having (when Lhewelyn ap Grufydh the last Prince of the British blood was slain) cut off in a manner the sinews of the Government, or sovereignty of that Nation, united the same to the Kingdom of England in the 12th year of his reign: and the whole Province swore fealty and allegiance to his son Edward of Caernarvon, whom he constituted Prince of Wales. But this Edward the second conferr'd not the title of Prince of Wales on his son Edward, but only the honour of Earl of Chester and Flint; as far as I could yet learn out of the records of the Kingdom1. Edward the third, first solemnly invested his son Edward, sirnam'd the Black, with this title2; who, in the very height of grandeur, died an untimely death. After that he conferr'd the same on his son Richard of Bourdeaux, heir to the crown; who being depriv'd of his Kingdom by K. Hen. 4. died miserably, leaving no issue. The same Henry the fourth3 conferr'd the Principality of Wales on his eldest son, who was that renowned Prince Henry the fifth. His son Henry the sixth, whose father died whilst he was an infant, conferr'd that honour; (which he never receiv'd himself) on his young son Edward; who being taken in the battel of Tewkesbury, had his brains dash'd out cruelly by the York-Party. Not long after, K. Edward the fourth being settl'd in the throne, created his young son Edward (afterwards Edward the fifth) Prince of Wales. And soon after, his Uncle Richard, having dispatch'd him away, substituted in his place his own son Edward, created Earl of Salisbury before by Edward the fourth, but died soon after (which I have but lately discover'd). Afterwards Henry the seventh constituted first his son Arthur Prince of Wales, and after his decease, Henry, famous afterwards under the title of Henry the 8. On all these the Principality of Wales was conferr'd by solemn Investiture, and a Patent deliver'd them in these words; Tenendus sibi & haeredibus Regibus Angliae, &c. For in those times the Kings would not deprive themselves of so fair an opportunity of obliging their eldest sons, but thought it prudence to engage them with so great an honour, when it seem'd most convenient.
Mary, Elizabeth, and Edward, the children of Henry the eighth, although they receiv'd not the Investiture and Patent, were yet successively stil'd Princes of Wales. For at that time Wales was by Act of Parliament so united and incorporated with England,26 He [...]. that they enjoy'd the same Laws and Privileges4. But now let us return out of Wales into England, and proceed to the Country of the Brigantes.
An INDEX of the Curiosities represented in the TABLE,
- Fig. 1. 2. THE carv'd pillar or monument call'd Maen y Chwyvan in Flintshire.
- Fig. 3. 4. The pillars describ'd in the Hall at Kaer-phyli Castle in Glamorganshire.
- Fig. 5. The Alabaster Statue, found near Porth Shini Krân in Monmouthshire.
- Fig. 6. Maen y Morynnion at Gaer near Brecknock▪
- Fig. 7. The chequer'd Pavement discover'd Anno 1692. at Kaer Lheion in Monmouthshire.
- Fig. 8. A hollow Brick out of a Roman Hypocaust at Kaerhŷn in Caernarvonshire.
- Fig. 9. The Phiala or Bowl describ'd at Kaer Lheion in Monmouthshire.
- Fig. 10. One of the leaden Boxes mention'd at Lhan Boydy in Caermardhinshire.
- Fig. 11. 12. The same open'd.
- Fig. 13. A brass-axe found at Moel yr Henhlys in the Parish of Deròwen in Montgomeryshire.
- Fig. 14. Part of one of the brass Daggers (if we may so call them) found at Karreg Dhiwin in Meirionydhshire: with the nails that fasten'd it to the handle.
- Fig. 15. The point of such a Dagger, found at the same place.
- Fig. 16. 17. The Roman Fibula, describ'd at Kaer Lheion in Monmouthshire.
- Fig. 18. A brass Amulet dug out of a Well somewhere in Denbighshire. The other side differ'd not from that which is engraven.
- Fig. 19. A cake of Copper describ'd at Kaer Rhŷn in Caernarvonshire.
- Fig. 20. A gold Medal of Julius Constantius, found at Trevarthin in Anglesey.
- Fig. 21. A British gold coyn (such as they used before the Roman Conquest) found at Penbryn Parish in Cardiganshire.
- Fig. 22. 23. 24. Other British coyns of gold, kept in the Ashmolean Repository at Oxford.
- Fig. 25. 26. The Coyns describ'd at Kaer-Phyli Castle in Glamorganshire.
- Fig. 27. 28. 29. Mock Plants out of a Cole-pit near Neath in Glamorganshire. See a description of them in Flintshire.
On the left-hand of the Table.
- a. An Adder-bead or Glain Neidr of green glass, found at Abèr-Fraw in Anglesey.
- b. Another of earth, enamell'd with blue; found near Dôl Gèlheu in Meirionydhshire.
- c. A third of glass, undulated with white, red, and blue; found near Maes y Pandy in the same County.
- d. Represents one end of the same. Of these Adder-beads, which are supposed to have been Druid-Amulets, some account is given in Denbighshire, Annot. on Kerig y Drudion.
More rare Plants growing in Wales.
Acetola Cambro-britannica montana. Park. rotundifolia repens Eboracensis, foliis in medio [...]eliquium patientibus Moris. hist. Moun [...]ain round [...]aved Sorrels of Wales. On moist high rocks, and by rivul [...]s about Snowdon in Caernarvonshire almost every where; as also by rivulets among the broken rocks of Cader [...]idris is above a certain lake called Llin y cau.
Argemone lutea Cambro-britannica Park. Papaver luteum perenne, laciniato folio Cambro britannicum. Yellow wild bastard Poppy. About a mile from a small village called Abbar, and in the midway from Denbigh to Guidar; also near a wooden bridge over the river Dee, near to a village called Bala; also going up the hill that leads to Bangor near to Anglesey, Park. p. 270. But more certainly to be found on Clogwyn y Garnedh yscolion duon Trigvylche, as you ascend the Glyd [...]r from Lhanberies, and several other places about Snowdon, most commonly by rivulets, or on moist rocks: also beyond Pontvawr very near the bridge, among the stones. Mr. Lhwyd.
Alsine myosotis lanuginosa Alpina grandiflora, seu Auricula muris villosa flore amplo membranaceo. An Caryophyllus holosteus Alpinus angustifolius C. B. prod? Hairy mountain Mouse-ear Chickweed with a large flower. On the rock called Clogwyn y Garnedh, the highest of all Wales, near Lhanberys in Caernarvonshire plentifully.
Adiantum nigrum pinnulis Cicuturiae divisurâ. An Ad album tenuifolium Rutae murariae aecedens J. B. Fine-leaved white Mayden-hair divided like bastard Hemlock. On Snowdon hill.
Bistorta minima Alpina, foliis imis subrotundis & minutissimè ferratis D. Lhwyd. Alpina pumila varia Park. pumila foliis variis rotundis & longis Moris. The lea [...] mountain Bisbort, with round and long leaves. In the steep pastures of [...] high rock called Grîb Gôch above the lake or pool called Phynon brech near Llanberys. Whether this be specifically different from the Westmorland Bistorta minor, I leave to others, upon comparing the plants, to determine.
Bugula caerulea Alpina-Park. Consolida media caerulea Alpina C. B. Mountain Bugle or Sicklewort. Found o [...] Carnedh Lhewellin in Caernarvonshire by Dr. Johnson▪
Caryophyllata montana purpurea Ger. emac. montana seu palustris purpurea Park. aquatica nutante f [...]ore C. B. aquatica flore rubro striato J. B. Purple Mountain-Avens or Water-Avens. On Snowdon and other mountains.
Cirsium Britannicum Glusii repens J. B. aliud Anglicum Park. singulari capitulo magno vel incanum alterum C. B. The great English soft or gentle Thistle, or [...]elancholy Thistle. As you ascend the Glyder from Lhanberys, and in many other mountainous pastures about Snowdon.
Cirsium montanum humile Cynoglossi folio poly [...]uthemum. An Carduus mollis Helenii folio Park? On Clogwyn y Garnedh, and most other high rocks in Caer [...]vonshire about Snowdon.
Cirsium montanum polyanthemum. Salicis folio angusto denticulato. By a rivulet on Gallt ar Ogo near Capel Ceirig, and in other places with the precedent, of which perhaps it may be only a variety.
Chamaemorus Cambro-britannica sive Lancastrense Vaccinium nubis Park. The Welsh Knoutberry: said to be found in Wales by Dr. Lobel. We met not with it there.
Cochlearia minor rotundifolia nostras & Parkinsoni. Small round-leaved Scurvy-grass. The lower leaves from the root are round: Those on the stalks angular. On the coast of Caernarvonshire, and likewise of Anglesey, about Beaumaris.
Cotyledon hirsuta P. B. Saniculae Alpinae aliquatenus affinis J. B. forte. Hairy Kidney-wort. By the hills and on the moist rocks of many mountains in Wales, as Snowdon, Cader-idris, Carnedh-Lhewelyn, &c. abundantly.
Filix Alpina Pedicularis rubrae foliis subtus villosis D. Lhwyd, pumila, Lonchitidis Marantha species Cambro-britannica, An Lonchitis aspera Ilvensis Lugd? D. Plukenet. Phytograph. Stone-Fern with [...] rattle leaves, hairy underneath. On the moist rocks call d Clogwyn y Garnedh, near the top of the mountain Gwydhva the highest in all Wales. It is a rare-plant even at Snowdon.
Filicula petraea florida perelegans seu Adiantum album floridum. An Adianthum Alpinum crispu [...] Schwenckfeldii J. B.? Small flowering Stone-fern. On Clogwyn y Garnedh, and most other high rocks.
Filix montana ramosa minor argute denticulato D. Lhwyd. Alpina Myrrhidis facie Cambro-britannica D. Plukenet. Phytograph. Small-branched Mountain-Fern, with finely indented leaves. On the top of the mountain Glyder, where it overhangs the lake or pool called Lhyn Ogwan.
Filix marina Anglica Park. Chamaefilix marina Anglica J. B. Filicula petraea foemina seu Chamaefilix marina Anglica Ger. emac. Filix petraea ex insulis Stoechadibus C. B. Dwarf Sea-fern. On the rocks ab [...]ut Prestholm Island near Beaumaris, and at Lhandwyn in the Isle of Anglesey.
Filix saxatilis Tragi J. B. Park. Adiantum [...] seu furcatum Thal. Filix corniculata C. B. On the t [...]p of Carnedh-Lhewelyn near Lhan Lhechyd in Caernarvonshire. Horned or forked white Maiden-hair.
Gnaphalium maritimum C. B. maritimum multis J. B. marinum Ger. marinum sive Cotonaria Park. Sea Cudweed or Cottonweed. On the sand near Abermeney-ferry in the Isle of Anglesey plentifully, where the common people call it Calamus aromaticus, from its sweet scent.
Gramen sparteum montanum spica foliacea graminea P. B. Grass upon grass. On the tops of the highest mountains, Snowdon, Cader-idris, &c. among the stones and moss, where no other Plant grows.
Hipposelinum Ger. emac. Hippos. seu Smyrnium vulgare Park. Macerone, quibusdam Smyrnium, semine magno nigro J. B. Hipposelinum Theophrasti sive Smyrnium Dioscoridis C. B Alexanders. On the rocks about Prestholm Island near Beaumaris plentifully.
Hyacinthus stellatus Fuchsii Ger. stellatus vulgaris sive bifolius Fuchsii Park. parad. stellatus bifolius & trifolius vernus dumetorum flore caeruleo & albo J. B. stellaris bifolius Germanicus C. B. Small vernal St [...]r-Hyacinth. On the coasts of North-Wales among the bushes, and in the adjacent Islands, Bardsey, &c. plentifully.
Juncus acutus maritimus Anglicus Park. English Sea hard Rush. On the southern Sea-coast of Wales.
Juncus acutus capitulis Sorghi C. B. maritimus capitulis Sorghi Park. pungens, s [...]u acutus capitulis [...]o [...] ghi J. B. Pricking large Sea-Rush, with heads like Indian millet. On the sandy hills on the Western shore of North-Wales, Merionethshire about Harlech.
Juniperus Alpina J. B. Clus. Park. Alpina minor Ger. emac. minor montana folio latiore, fructúque longiore C. B. Mountain Dwarf Juniper. On Snowdon hill. The Country-people call it Savine, and use the decoction of it to destroy the bots in horses.
Lamium montanum Melissa folio C. B. Melissa Fuchsii Ger. Melissophyllon Fuchsii Park. Melissa adulterina quorundam, amplis foliis, & floribus non grati odoris J. B. Baulm-leaved Archangel, Bastar [...]-Baulm. In the woods about Haverford-West in Pembrokeshire.
Leucoium maritimum sinuato folio C. B. maritimum Camerarii J. B. marinum maximum Park. ut & majus ejusdem. marinum purpureum Lobelii G [...]r. emac. Great Sea-stock-Gillyflower, with a sinuated leaf. On the sandy shores about Abermeney ferry in the Isl [...] of Anglesey, and at Aberdaren in Caernarvonshire.
Lychnis Alpina minima. Caryophylleus flos 9 Clusio, Caryophyllus pumilio Alpinus Ger. emac. Lychnis Alpina pumila folio gramineo, seu Muscus Alpinus Lychnidis flore C. B. Muscus Alpinus flore insigni dilutè rubente J. B. Ocymoides muscosus Alpinus Park. The least Mountain-Campion or Mosse-Campion. On the steep and higher rocks of Snowdon-hill in Caernarvonshire almost everywhere.
Lychnis sylvestris viscosa rubra angustifolia C. B. Park. Odontidi sive Fiori cuculi affinis Lychnis sylv. 1. Clusii in Pannon. 4 in Hist. J. B. Muscipula angustifolia Ger. emac. Narrow-leaved red Catchfly. On the sides of Craig Wreidhin hill in Montgomeryshire.
Alsines myosotis facie Lychnis Alpina flore amplo niveo repens D. Lloyd. Mountain-Campion with a large white flower, resembling Mouse-ear-Chickweed. By the water-courses on the sides of Snowdon-hill plentifully.
Lonchitis aspera C. B. aspera major Ger. aspera major Matthiolo Park. altera cum folio denticulato, sive Lonchitis altera Matthioli J. B. Rough Spleenwort with indented leavss. It springs out of the rifts and chinks of the rocks, in the high Mountains of Snowdon. v. g. Clogwin y Garnedh, y Grîb Gôch Trygvylchau.
Lithospermum majus Dodonaei, flore purpureo, semine Anchusae J. B. majus Ger. vulgare majus Park. minus repens latifolium C. B. the lesser creeping Gromwel. On the top of a bushy hill on the North-side of Denbigh town.
Malva arborea marina nostras Park. English Sea-Tree-Mallow. On the rocks of Caldey Island in South-Wales plentifully.
Muscus clavatus sive Lycopodium Ger. Park. Clubm [...]ss or Wolves-claw. On the Mountains every where.
Muscus terrestris foliis retro reflexis J. B. Lycopodium elatius Abieti-forme Julo singulari apode D. Lhwyd. Club-moss with reflected leaves, and single heads, without foot-stalks. It grows together with Cypress-moss on the Mountains of Caernarvonshire; but more rarely. We found it plentifully on the Mountain call'd Rhiwr Glyder above the Lake Lhyn y cwn, and elsewhere on the said Mountain.
Muscus clavatus foliis Cupressi Ger emac. C. B. Cypress-Moss or Heath-Cypress. On Snowdon, Cader-idris, and most other of the high Mountains among the grass.
Muscus erectus Abieti-formis, terrestris rectus J. B. Selago tertia Thal. Upright Fir-moss. On Snowdon, Cader-idris, and other high Mountains.
Muscus terrestris repens, clavis singularibus foliosis erectis. Creeping Club-moss with erect heads. On moist and watery places about springs; and in meadows about Capel Ceirig.
Muscus terrestris erectus minor polyspermos. Seeding Mountain-moss. In moist places and about springs on Snowdon and other Mountains
Muscus Trichomanoides purpureus, Alpinis rivulis innascens. Purple Mountain-water-moss resembling black maiden hair. In the mountainous rivulets.
Muscus croceus saxigena holosericum referens, seu Byssus petraeus. An muscus saxatilis serico similis Commelini in Cat. plant. Holland? Saffron-colour'd silken stone-moss. Under high rocks where they are prominent.
Orchis pusilla alba odorata radice palmata. White-handed musk Orchies. On the sides of Snowdon by the way leading frrom Lhanberis to Caernarvon.
Orobus sylvaticus nostras. English wild Wood-Vetch or bitter Vetch. Below Brecknock-hills in the way to Cardiff: and in Merionethshire not far from Bala.
Plantago angustifolia montana. An Alpina angusti-folia J. B. Narrow-leav'd Mountain-Plantain. On the rocks of Trigvylchau above the Lake Lhyn Bochlyn, near the Church of S. Peris.
Polypodium Cambro britannicum pinnulis ad margines laciniatis. Laciniated Polypody of Wales. On a rock in a wood near Denys Powis Castle, not far from Ca [...]rdyff in Glamorganshire.
Ranunculus globosus Ger. Park. parad. The Globe-flower or Locker-goulons. In the mountainous meadows, and on the sides of the Mountains plentifully.
Rhodia radix omnium Autorum. Rosewort. On the rocks of the high Mountains of Snowdon and Cader-idris, &c. plentifully.
Sedum Alpinum Ericoides caeruleum C. B. J. B. Mountain Heath like Sengreen with large purple flowers. On the steep and higher rocks of Snowdon almost every where.
Sedum Alpinum trifido folio C.B. Small Mountain-Sengreen with jagged leaves. On Snowdon and oth [...]r high Mountains, chiefly by the rivulets sides.
Sedum serratum flosculis compactis non maculatis. Indented Mountain Sengreen with unspotted flowers growing close together. On the highest Mountains, it spring s out of the chinks and commissures of the rocks; as in Clogwyn y Garnedh, Crîb y Distilh, Clogwyn du ymhen y Glyder, near Lhanberys.
Thalictrum montanum minus foliis latioribus. The lesser Meadow-rue with broader leaves. On the steep sid [...]s of the Mountain call'd Cader-idris by Dolgchle in Merionethshire, out of the clefts or chinks of the rocks.
Thalictrum minimum montanum, atro-rubens, foliis splendentibus. The least mountainous Meadow-rue, with shining leaves and dark red flowers. On the moist rocks, and by the rivulets in the Mountains of Caernarvonshire. Mr. Lhwyd. There are two varieties of this, the one with broader, the other with narower leaves.
Thlaspi sive Lunaria vasculo sublongo intorto. Lunar Violet with a wreathen cod. On the Mountains of North-Wales, observ'd by Mr. Lhwyd. Who also found another Plant there on the high rocks call'd Hysväe, hanging over the valley Nant Phrancon in Carnarvonshire, which he intitled Paronychiae similis sed major perennis Alpina repens, of which, having not seen it in the seed, he was in some doubt whether it might not be the same with the precedent.
Thlaspi Vaccaria incano folio perenne. Perennial Mithridate-mustard. In the mountainous part of North-Wales.
Nasturtium petraeum Johnsoni Merc. Bot. part. alt. Dr. Johnsons Rock-cress. On the high Mountains of Caernarvonshire and Merionethshire, as Moelyn rudh near Phestiniog, Clogwyn du y yr Ardhus and Clogwyn y Garnedh near Lhanberys.
Bulbosa Alpina juncifolia pericarpio unico erecto in summo cauliculo dodrantali. A certain Rush-leav'd bulbous Plant, having one Seed-vessel on the top of an erect stalk about nine inches high. On the high rocks of Snowdon, viz. Trigvylchau y Clogwyn du ymhen y Gluder, Clogwyn yr Ardhu Crîb y Distilh, &c. Mr. Lhwyd. It hath three or four more narrow and short leaves upon the stalk.
Subularia lacustris seu Calamistrum herba aquatico-Alpina, s. Aizoides Fusiforme Alpinorum lacuum D. Lhwyd. A Spindle-leav'd Water-Sengreen-like Plant, growing in the bottom of a small Lake near the top of Snowdon hill, call'd Phynon vrêch, &c.
Graminifolia plantula Alpina capitulis Armeriae proliferae, D. Lhwyd. A Mountain grass-leav'd Plant with heads like the Cluster-pink. In the pastures at the foot of a certain high rock call'd Clogwyn du ymhen y Glyder in Caernarvonshire.
Gladiolus lacustris Dortmanni Clus. cur. post. Glad. lacustris Clusii, sive Leucoium palustre flore caeruleo Bauhini Park. Water Gladiole. In most of the Lakes in North-Wales.
Graminifolia lacustris polifera, seu plantulis quasi novis hinc inde cauliculis accrescentibus. A Grass-leav'd childing Water-plant, having young Plants springing from the stalks.
Veronica spicata latifolia C. B. Ger. major latifolia, foliis splendentibus & non splendentibus J. B. spicata latifolia major Park. Great broad-leav'd spiked Speedwell or Fluellin. On the sides of a Mountain call d Craig-Wreidhin in Montgomeryshire.
Auricula muris pulchro flore, solio tenuissimo J. B. Small fine-leav'd Mountain-Chickweed with a fair flower. On most of the high and steep rocks about Snowdon.
Trichomanes ramosum J. B. aliud, foliis mucronatis profundè incisis Sibbald. Prod. Scot. Branched English black Maiden-hair. On the high rocks about Snowdon plentifully.
BRIGANTES.
BRITAIN, which has thus far bulg'd out into several Promontories, coming gradually nearer, on one side to Germany, and on the other to Ireland; does now (as if it were afraid of the breaking in of the Ocean) draw it self in on each side, retires farther from its neighbours, and is contracted into a much narrower breadth. For it is not above a hundred miles over between the two coasts; which run forwards almost in a streight line as far as Scotland. While the Government of the Britains lasted, almost all this tract was inhabited by the Brigantes. For Ptolemy tells us, that they were possessed of all from the Eastern to the Western Sea. This was a People stout and numerous; and is very much commended by the better sort of ancient Writers; who all name them Brigantes, except Stephanus in his Book of Cities, who calls them Brigae. Brigae. What he says of them in that place, we know not; the sentence where he speaks about them being imperfect in the Copies we have at this day. If I should imagine that those Brigantes were so call'd from Briga, Brigantes, from whence so call'd. which among the old Spaniards signified a City; 'tis a conjecture I could not acquiesce in, because it is evident from Strabo that this is a pure Spanish word. Or if I should think with Goropius, that these Brigantes were deriv'd from a Belgick word Free-hands (i.e. Liberi manibus;) what were it but to obtrude his dreams upon people that are waking? But whatever becomes of these opinions, our Britains at this day, if they observe a fellow of a resolute, restless, intruding temper, will twit him by saying thatBrigantem agit. Pasquierus, Les Recherches de France, l. 6. c. 40. he plays the Brigans: and the French at this day call the same sort of men Brigand, and Pirate-ships Brigantin; which are probably remains of the old Gaulish. But whether the word had that signification in the old Gaulish or British languages, and whether our Brigantes were of that temper, I dare not affirm. Yet if my memory fail me not, Strabo calls the Brigantes (a People of the Alps) Grassatores, i.e. robbers and plunderers; and Julius Belga, a desperately bold youth (who look'd upon power, authority, and virtue, to be no more than bare empty names, is in Tacitus sirnam'd Briganticus. And our Brigantes seem to have been a little guilty of that humour; who were so very troublesom to their neighbours, that Antoninus Pius dispossess'd them of a great part of their territories for no other reason, as Pausanias tells us in these words; [...] i.e. Antoninus Pius depriv'd the Brigantes in Britain of much of their lands; because they began to make incursions into Genounia, a Region under the Jurisdiction of the Romans. I hope none will construe this as a reproach: for my part, I should be unlike my self, should I now go to scandalize any private person, much less a whole Nation. Nor was this indeed any reproach in that warlike age, when all right was in the longest sword. Robberies (says Caesar) among the Germans are not in the least infamous, so they be committed without the bounds of their respective Cities: and this they tell you they practise with a design to exercise their youth, and to keep them from sloth and laziness. Upon such an account also, the Paeones among the Greeks had that name from beingPercussores. Strikers or Beaters; as the Quadi among the Germans,Re [...]e Re [...]. and also the Chaldaeans had theirs from beingGrassatores. Robbers and Plunderers.
When Florianus del Campo, a Spaniard, out of a piece of vanity, carried the Brigantes out of Spain into Ireland, and from thence into Britain,Some Copies call those in Ireland Birgantes. without any manner of grounds, but that he found the City Brigantia in Spain; I am afraid he carried himself from the Truth. For if it may not be allow'd that our Brigantes and those in Ireland had the same name upon the same account; I had rather, with my learned friend Mr. Thomas Savil, conjecture that some of our Brigantes, with others of the British nations, retir'd into Ireland upon the coming over of the Romans. Some, for the sake of ease and quietness; others, to keep their eyes from being witnesses of the Roman insolence; and others again, because that liberty which Nature had given them and their younger years had enjoy'd, they would not now quit in their old age. However, that the Emperour Claudius, was the first of all the Romans who made an attempt upon our Brigantes, and subjected them to the Roman yoke, may be gathered from these verses of Seneca:
Yet I have always thought that they were not then conquer'd, but rather surrender'd themselves to the Romans: because what he has mention'd in a Poetical manner, is not confirm'd by Historians. For Tacitus tell us, that then Oslerius having new conquests in his eye, was drawn back by some mutinies among the Brigantes; and that after he had put some few to the sword, he easily quieted the rest. At which time, the Brigantes were govern'd by Cartismandua, Ca [...]tismandua. a noble Lady, who deliver'd up King Caratacus to the Romans. This brought in wealth, and that, Luxury; so that laying aside her husband Venutius, See The Romans in Britain. Tacitus. she marry'd Vellocatus, (his armour-bearer) and made him sharer with her in the government. This villany was the overthrow of her House, and gave rise to a bloody war. The City stood up for the Husband; and the Queen's lust and cruelty, for the Adulterer. She, by craft and artifice, got Venutius's brother and nearest relations cut off. Venutius could no longer brook this infamy, but call'd in succours; by whose assistance partly, and partly by the defection of the Brigantes, he reduc'd Cartismandua to the utmost extremity. The Garisons, Wings, and Cohorts, with which the Romans furnisht her, brought her off in several battels: yet so, that Venutius kept the Kingdom, and left nothing but the War to the Romans; who could not subdue the Brigantes before the time of Vespasian. For then Petilius Cerealis came against this People, with whom he fought several battels, not without much bloodshed, and either wasted or conquer'd a great part of the Brigantes. But whereas Tacitus has told us, that this Queen of the Brigantes deliver'd Caratacus prisoner to Claudius, and that he made up a part of Claudius's triumph; it is a manifestFault in Time. [...] in that excellent Author, as Lipsius (that great Master of ancient Learning) has long ago observ'd. For neither was Caratacus (Prince of the Silures) in that triumph of Claudius; nor yet Caratacus, son of Cunobelin (for so the Fasti call the same person, that Dio names Catacratus,) over whom Aulus Plautius, if not the same year, at least the very next after,Ovans triumphavit. triumph'd by way of Ovation. But these things I leave to the search of others; tho' something I have said of them before. In the time of Hadrian, when (as Aelius Spartianus has it) the Britains [Page]
[Page] [Page 705-706] could no longer be kept under the Roman yoke; our Brigantes seem to have revolted amongst the rest, and to have rais'd some very notable commotion. Else, why should Juvenal (who was a Cotemporary) say,
And afterwards, in the time of Antoninus Pius, they seem not to have been over submissive; since that Emperour (as we observ'd) dispossess'd them of part of their territories, for invading the Province of Genunia or Guinethia, on Allie of the Romans.
If I thought I should escape the Censure of the Criticks (who presuming upon their wit and niceness, do now-a-days take a strange liberty,) methinks I could correct an error or two in Tacitus, relating to the Brigantes. One is in the 12th book of his Annals, where he writes that Venutius (the person we just now mention'd) belong'd to the City of the Jugantes, è civitate Jugantum; I would read it Brigantum, which also Tacitus himself, in the third Book of his History, seems to confirm. The other is in the Life of Agricola: Brigantes (says he) foeminâ Duce, exurere Coloniam, &c. i.e. the Brigantes, under the conduct of a woman, began to set fire to the Colony. Here, if we will follow the truth, we are to read Trinobantes: for he speaks of Queen Boodicia, who had nothing to do with the Brigantes; whereas 'twas she that stir'd up the Trinobantes to rebellion, and burnt the ColonyMaldon. Camalodunum.
This large Country of the Brigantes grows narrower and narrower; and is cut in the middle (like Italy with the Appennine) by a continu'd ridge of Mountains, that separate the Counties into which it is at present divided. For und [...]r these Mountains, towards the East and the German Ocean, lay Yorkshire and the Bishoprick of Durham; to the West, Lancashire, Westmorland, and Cumberland: all which Counties, in the infancy of the Saxon Government, were contain'd under the Kingdom of the Deiri. For the Saxons call'd these Countries in general, the Kingdom of Northumberland; dividing it into two parts: Deira (call'd in that age Deir land) which is nearer, namely, on this side the river Tine; and Bernicia, the farther, reaching from the TineFrotum Scoticum. to the Frith of Edenburrow. Which parts, though for some time they had their different Kings, yet at last they came all under one Kingdom. And to take notice of this by the way; where we read in thePag. 272. Annal. Franc. octavo. Life of Charles the Great, Eardulphus Rex Nordanhumbrorum, i.e. De Irland, patria pulsus ad Carolum magnum venit, for De Irland, we are to read Deirland; and so to understand it, that he went over to Charles the Gre [...]t out of this Country, and not from Ireland.
YORKSHIRE.
THE County of York, ina Saxon Euerƿicscyre, Effrocscyre, and Eborascyre, commonly Yorkshire, by far the largest County in England, is reputed to be pretty fruitful. If in one place the soil be of a stony, sandy, barren nature, yet in another it is pregnant and fruitful; and so if it be naked and exposed in one part, we find it cloathed and sheltred with great store of wood in another; Nature using an allay and mixture, that the entire County, by this variety of parts, might seem more pleasing and beautiful. Towards the west, it is bounded by those hills already mention'd, by Lancashire, and by Westmorland. Towards the north, it borders upon the County of Durham, which is entirely separated from it by the river Tees. On the east, it bounds upon the German Ocean. The southside is enclosed, first with Cheshire and Derbyshire, then with Nottinghamshire, and lastly with Lincolnshire, [...]er. where that noble aestuary the Humber breaks in, which is a common rendezvouz for the greatest part of the rivers hereabouts. The whole County is divided into three parts, denominated from three several quarters of the world, West-Riding, East-Riding, and North-Riding. West-Riding or the West-part, is for some time bounded by the river [...] [...]nd [...]. Ouse, Lancashire, and the southern limits of the County, and lies out towards the south and west. East-Riding or the east-part of this County, lies towards the east, and towards the Ocean, which together with the river Derwent, encloses it. North-Riding or the north-part, fronts the north, and is in a manner included by the rivers Tees and Derwent, and a long course of the river Ouse. From the western mountains, or those bordering in the west-part of the County, many rivers gush forth, which are every one at last received by the Ouse, and so in one chanel flow into the Humber. Neither do I perceive any better method in describing this part, th [...]n to follow the course of the Dane, the Calder, Are, Wherfe, Nid, and Ouse, which issue out of these mountains, and are the most remarkable, not only as being the best rivers, but as flowing by the most considerable places.
Danus, commonly Don and Dune,Don, river. is as it seems so called, because 'tis carried in a low deep chanel; for that is the signification of the British word Dan. After it hath saluted Wortley, which has given name to that excellent family of the Wortleys [a], and also a place near it called Wentworth, Wentworth from which many Gentry both in this County and elsewhere, as also the Barons of Wentworth, have deriv'd their name and original [b]; it arrives at Sheafield, Sheafield. remarkable, among many other places hereabouts, for Blacksmiths, there being much iron digg'd up in these parts; and for a strong old Castle, which is descended in a right line from the Lovetofts, the Lords Furnival, 1 and Nevil Lord Furnival,Furnival. to the most honourable the Talbots, Earls of Shrewsbury [c]. From hence the Dane, under the shade of alder, yew-trees, and others, flows to Rotheram, Rotheram. which glories in having had an Archbishop of York of it's own name, viz. Thomas Rotheram, a wise man, who was born here, and prov'd a great benefactor to this place, having, upon a laudable design, founded a College here, with three Schools, for instructing boys in Writing, Grammar, and Musick; which are now supprest by the wicked avarice of this age [d]. Then it runs within view of Connisborow Connisborow. [e], an old Castle, called in British Caer Conan, situated upon a rock, whither (at the battel of Maisbelly, when Aurelius Ambrosius routed the Saxons and put them to a disorderly flight) Hengist their General retired to secure himself;Florilegus 487. and a few days after took the field again against the Britains, who pursued him, with whom he engaged a second time, which proved fatal both to himself and his army: for the Britains cut off many of them, and taking him prisoner, beheaded him, if the authority of the British History is to be preferred in this matter before that of theb Saxon Annals, which report him to have dy'd a natural death, being worn out and spent with fatiegue and business [f]2.
After this it washes Sprotburg, the ancient Seat of an ancient family the Fitz-Williams, Knights, related to the best families of England, and the ancestors of3 William Fitz-Williams, Fitz-Williams. within the memory of the last age Earl of Southampton; and also of William Fitz-Williams late Lieutenant of Ireland. But this seat is now descended to the Copleys; as Elmsley and many other estates of theirs in these parts, to the Savills.
From hence the Dan severs into two courses, and runs to an old town, to which it leaves its name, commonly called at this day Doncaster Doncaster. [g], but by the Scots Doncastle, and the Saxons Dona cester; by Ninius, Caer-Daun; by Antoninus, Danum; and so likewise by the Notitia, which relates that the Praefect of the Crispinian Horse under the Dux Britanniae garrison'd the [...]e. About the year 759. it was burnt to the ground by lightning, and so bury'd in it's own rubbish, that it has hardly yet recover'd it self. The plat of a large tower is still visible, which they imagine was destroyed in that fire; where now stands a neat Church dedicated to St. George, the only Church in this town [h]. Scarce five miles distant, to the southward, stands a place which I must not pass by, called Tickhill, Tickhill. being an ancient town, and fortified with an old castle, which is large, but barely surrounded with a single wall, and by a huge mount with a round tower upon the top of it. It was of such dignity heretofore, that all the manours hereabouts appertaining to it, were stiled, the Honour of Tickhill. In Henry the first's reign it was held by Roger Busty; but afterwards King Stephen made the Earls of Ewe in Normandy Lords of it. Next, King Richard 1. gave it to his brother John. Plac. An. 3. Joan. Plac. M. 4. H. 3 In the Barons war, Robert de Veteri ponte. Vipont took and detained it, till Henry the thi [...]d deliver'd to him the castle of Carlisle, and that County, upon condition he would restore it to the Earl of Ewe. But upon the King of France's refusal to restore the English to the estates they had in France, the King dispossest him again, John Earl of Ewe still demanding restitution of it from King Edward the first, in right of Alice his great grandmother Lastly, Richard the second, King of England, gave it to John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster. Now the Dan, which here begins to rise and frequently overflows its banks, re-unites its scatter'd streams, and after it hath run on in one entire chanel by Hatfield Chase, where there is special good Deer-hunting [i], it divides it self again, one stream running towards the river Idel which comes out of Nottinghamshire, the other towards the river Are; in both which they continue till they meet again, and fall into the aestuary of Humber [k]. Within the Island, or that piece of ground encompassed by the branches of these two rivers, are Diche-march and Marshland, Marshland. fenny tracts, or rather River-islands, about fifteen miles round, which produce a very green rank grass, good for cattel, and are as it were set round with little villages. Some of the inhabitants imagine the whole Island floats upon the water; and that sometimes when the waters are encreased, 'tis rais'd higher; just like what Pomponius Mela tells us of the Isle of Antrum in Gaul. Among other brooks which water this place, I must not forget to mention the Went, because it arises from a pool near Nosthill, Nosthill. where formerly stood a monastery dedicated to that royal Saint Oswald, St. Oswald. which was repaired by A. Confessor to King Henry the first; and at this day is the seat of the famous family of the Gargraves Knights [l].b
Calder, riv.The river Calder, which flows along the borders between this and Lancashire, among other inconsiderable little places, runs by Gretland, situated on the very top of a hill, and accessible but on one side, where was digged up this Votive Altar, sacred, as it seems, to the tutelar God of the city of the Brigantes. It is to be seen at Bradley, in the house of the famous Sir John Savil, Kt. Baron of the Exchequer [m]4.
ET NVM. GG.
T. AVR. AVRELIAN
VS DD PRO SE
ET SVIS. S. M. A. G. S.
On the other side.
Which is to be read, Dui Civitatis Brigantum & numinibus Augustorum, Titus Aurelius Aurelianus dedicavit prose & suis. i.e. To the God of the City of the Brigantes, and to the Deities of the Emperours, Titus Aurelius Aurelianus hath dedicated this in behalf of himself and his. As for the last remaining letters, I cannot tell what they mean. The Inscription on the other side, is, Antonino tertiùm & Getae Consulibus.
Whether this Dui be that God which the Britains call'd Diw, D [...]i. G [...] [...]f places. or the peculiar and local Genius of that Ci [...]y, may be decided by those who are better Judges. But as Symmachus has it,Lib [...] As the souls are distributed among those that are born, even so are the fatal Genii among Nations. God does appoint every Kingdom its respective Guardians. This was the perswasion and belief of the Ancients in those matters. For, to say nothing of foreign Nations, whose Histories are fruff'd with such local Deities, the Britains themselves had their Andates in Essex,Dio. their Bello-tucadrus in Cumberland, their Viterinus and Mogontus in Northumberland; as will be more manifest from the Inscriptions, I shall insert in their proper places. And lastly, 'tis rightly observ'd by Servius Honoratus, that these local Gods were never transitory or shifted from one Country to another. But to return to the Calder. Which, with supplies from other currents, is now become larger, and therefore made passable by a very fine bridge at Eland, not far distant from Grimscar, where bricks have been dug up with this Inscription: ‘COH. IIII. BRE.’ For the Romans,V [...]pis [...] Probo. who were excellent Masters in the arts of Discipline and War, wisely took care to preserve their Souldiers from effeminacy and sloth, by exercising them in times of peace, either in draining the Country by casting ditches, mending the highway, making of bricks, building bridges, or the like.
From hence the river Calder passes through the Mountains on the left by Halifax, Halifax. a very famous town, situated from West to East upon the gentle descent of an hill. This name is of no great antiquity: not many ages since it was call'd Horton, Some [...] it was f [...]rmerly c [...] The C [...] in the Grove. as some of the Inhabitants say; who tell us this story concerning the change of it. A certain Clergy-man of this town, being passionately in love with a young woman, and by no means able to move her to comply with his lust, grew stark mad, and in that condition villanously cut off her head. Her head was afterward hung upon an Ew-tree, where it was reputed holy by the vulgar, till quite rotten; and was often visited in Pilgrimage by them; every one plucking off a branch of the tree [as a holy relique.] By this means the tree became at last a meer trunk, but still retain'd its reputation of sanctity among the people, who even perswaded themselves that those little veins, which are spread out like hair in the rind between the bark and the body of the tree, were indeed the very hair of the Virgin. This occasion'd such resort of Pilgrims to it, that Horton, from a little village grew up soon to a large town, assuming the new name of Halig-fax or Halifax, which signifies holy hair. Fax, wh [...] signifies. For fax is used by the English on the other side Trent, to signifie hair. And that noble family of the Fairfax in these parts, are so denominated from their fair hair. And therefore whoever, from the affinity of their names, would have this to be what Ptolemy calls Olicana, are certainly out. This town is no less famous among the Commonalty for a By-law, Halifax Law. whereby they behead any one instantly that's found stealing; nor among the Learned, who will have John de sacro Bosco, Author of the Treatise De Sphaera, to be born in it. But 'tis more remarkable for thec unusual extent [Page] and largeness of the Parish, which has under it eleven Chapels (two whereof are Parochial) and about twelve thousand men in it. So that the Parishioners are wont to say, they can reckon more men in their Parish, than any kind of animal whatsoever; whereas in the most populous and fruitful places of England elsewhere, one shall find thousands of sheep, but so few men, in proportion, that one would think they had given place to sheep and oxen, or were devour'd by them. But of all others, nothing is so admirable in this town, as the industry of the inhabitants, who, notwithstanding an unprofitable, barren soil, not fit to live in, have so flourish'd by the Cloath trade (which within these seventy years they first fell to) that they a [...]e both very rich, and have gain'd a reputation for it above their neighbours. Which confirms the truth of that old observation, That a barren Country is a great whet to the industry of the Natives: by which alone we find, Norinberg in Germany, Venice and Genoua in Italy, and lastly Limoges in France, notwithstanding their situation on a barren soil, have ever flourishing Cities [n]. Six miles from Halifax, not f [...]r from the right side of the river Calder, and near Almondbury, [...]ondbu [...] ▪ a little village, there is a very steep hill only accessible by one way from the plain; [...]. where the marks of an old rampire, and some ruins of a wall, and of a castle well guarded with a triple fortification, are plainly visible. Some would have it the remains of Olicana, but 'tis really the ruins of Cambodunum (which is, by a mistake in Ptolemy, call'd Camulodunum, andd made two words by Bede, Campo-dunum) as appears by the distance which Antoninus makes between that and Mancunium on the one hand, and that and Calcaria on the other. In the beginning of the Saxon times, it seems to have made a great figure in the world. For it was then a Royal Seat, and graced with a [...]ca. Cathedral built by Paulinus the Apostle of these parts, and dedicated to St. Alban; whence for Albanbury 'tis now call'd Almonbury. But in those cruel wars that Ceadwall the Britain and Penda the Mercian made upon Edwin the Prince of these Territories, it was burnt down: which in some measure appears in the colour of the stones to this day. Afterwards a Castle was built here, which, as I have read, was confirm'd to Henry Lacy by King Stephen [o].
[...]ey.Not far from this stands Whitley, the Seat of the ancient and famous family of the Beaumonts, which is different and distinct from that of the Barons and Vicounts Beaumont, and flourish'd in England before they came over.
The Calder having passed by these places, runs on to Kirkley, [...]ley. heretofore a Nunnery; thence to Robin Hood's Tomb, who was a generous robber, and very famous; [...]. and so to Deusborrough, situated at the foot of a high Hill. Whether this name be deriv'd from Dui, that local Deity already mention'd, I cannot determine: the name is not unlike; for it resembles Duis Burgh in sound, and this town has been considerable from the earliest date of Christianity among the English of this Province. For I have been inform'd of ae Cross yet to be seen here with this Inscription: ‘PAVLINVS HIC PRAEDICAVIT ET CELEBRAVIT.’
That is, ‘Paulinus here preached and celebrated [Divine Service.]’
That this Paulinus was the first Archbishop of York, about the year 626. we are assured by the concurring evidence of our Historians. From hence it goes by Thornhill, which from a knightly family of that namef descended to the Savils: and so Calder marches to Wakefield, Wakefield. a town famous for it's Cloath-trade, largeness, neat buildings, great markets; and for the bridge, upon which King Edward the fourth built a very neat Chapel, in memory of those that were cut off in a battel here. This town belong'd heretofore to the Earls of Warren and Sur [...]y; as also Sandal-castle just by, built by John Earl of Warren, whose mind was never free from the slavish dictates of his own lust; for being too familiar with the wife of Thomas Earl of Lancaster, his design was to detain her there securely from her husband. Below this town, when England was embroil'd with civil wars, Richard Duke of York, 1460 and father of Edw. 4 (whose temper was rather to provoke fortune, than quietly to court and expect it) was here slain amongst many others, by the Lancastrians. The ground hereabouts for a pretty way together, is call'd the Lordship of Wakefield, and hath always some one or other of the Gentry for its Seneschal or Steward; an Office often administer'd by the Savils, Savils. a very numerous family in these parts, and at this day in the hands of Sir J. Savil Knight, whose exceeding neat house appears at Howley, Howley. not far off [p]. About five miles from Wakefield, the river Calder loses both its name and waters in the river Are. Upon the confluence stands Medley, Medley. formerly Medeley, so call'd from its situation, as edging in between two rivers. In the last age this was the Seat of5 Robert Waterton, Master of the Horse to K. Henry the fourth, but at present of the famousg Sir John Savil, a most worthy Baron of the Exchequer, who must be ingenuously own'd not only to have promoted this work by his great learning, but also to have encourag'd the Author of it, by his humanity and kindness.
The river Are issuing from the root of the Mountain Pennigent (which is the highest in these parts,Are river.) at first seeming doubtful, whether it should run forwards into the Sea, or return into its Spring, is so winding and crooked, that in travelling this way, I had it to pass over seven times in half an hour upon a strait road. It's course is calm and quiet; so easie that it hardly appears to flow: and I am of opinion this has occasion'd its name. For I have already observ'd that the British word ara, signifies slow and easie: and hence that slow river Araris in France, takes its name.Araris in Gaul. That part of the Country where the head of this river lyes, is call'd Craven, Craven. possibly from the British word Crage, a rock: for what with stones, steep rocks, and rough ways, this place is very wild and unsightly. In the very middle of which, and not far distant from the Are, stands Skipton, Skipton. hid (as it were) with those st [...]ep precipices, lying quite round; just likeLateo. Latium in Italy, which Varro thinks was really so call'd from its low situation under the Appennine, and the Alps. The town is pretty handsome, considering the manner of building in these mountainous parts, and is secured by a very beautiful and strong Castle, built by Robert de Rumeley; by whose posterity it came to be the inheritance of the Earls of Albemarle. But being afterwards escheated (as the Lawyers term it) to the Crown, Edward the second gave it (with other large possessions hereabouts) in exchange, to Robert de Clifford ancestor to the Earls of Cumberland, for some lands of his in the Marches of Wales [q].
The Are having pass'd Craven, is carried in a much larger chanel with pleasant fields on both sides, by Kigheley, from which the famous family of Kigheley Kigheley. derive their name. One of whom, call'dh Henry Kigheley, procured from Edward the first, for his manour here, the privilege of a Market and Fair, Libera Warrenn. and a free Warren, so that none might enter into those grounds to chase there, or with design to catch any thing pertaining to the said Warren, without the permission and leave of the said Henry and his Successors. Which was a very considerable favour in those days: and I the rather take notice of it, because it teaches us the nature and [Page] meaning of a Free-Warren. The male-issue in the right line of this family ended in Henry Kigheley of Inskip, within the memory of this age: the daughters and heiresses were married, one to William Cavendish at this time Baron Cavendish of Hardwick; the other to Thomas Worseley of Boothes. From hence, the river Are glides on by Kirkstall, a famous Monastery, founded about the year 1147. by Henry Lacy. And thence by Leedes, [...]ds. in Saxon Loydes, which was made a royal village when Cambodunum was burnt down by the enemy: now enriched by the woollen manufacture. Here Oswy the Northumbrian routed Penda the Mercian, to the great advantage, says Bede, of both people; for it both secured his own nation from the inroads of the Pagans, and was the occasion of converting the Mercians to the Christian Religion. The very spot where this engagement was, goes by the name of Winwidfield Winwidfield. in our Historians. I suppose, deriv'd from the victory it self; as when Quintilius Varus and his Legions were cut off in Westphalia, the place of Action was called in High Dutch Winfield (the field of Victory) as the most learned, and my most worthy friend, Abraham Ortelius has well observed [r]. The Country, for some little way about it, was formerly called by the old wordh Elmet; Elmet which Edwin King of Northumberland, son of Ella, brought under his own dominion,Ninius. by the conquest of Cereticus a British King, An. Dom. 620. There is Limestone Limestone. plentifully found he [...]e: they burn it at Brotherton and Knottingley; and at certain seasons convey it in great quantities, for sale, to Wakefield, Sandall, and Standbridge: from thence it is sold into the western parts of this County, which are naturally cold and mountainous; and herewith they manure and improve the soil. But leaving these things to the husbandmen, let us return [s].
The Calder above-mention'd, is at last received by the Are: near the union of them stands the little village Castleford, Castleford. but called by Marianus Casterford; who tells us, that the Citizens of York slew many of Etheldred's army, pursuing them in a disorderly flight; when he infested this Country for their treachery and breach of Leagues. Yet the older name of this place is that in Antoninus, where 'tis called Legeolium Legeolium. and Lagetium which among other remarkable and express remains of antiquity, is confirmed by those great numbers of Coins (called by the common people Sarasins-heads) dug up here in Beanfeild, a place near the Church, and so called from the beans that grow there. Also by the distance of it from Danum and Eboracum on each side: not to mention its situation by a Roman way; nor that Hoveden expresly calls it a City [t].
The river Are, now enlarged by the confluence of the Calder, leaves Brotherton B [...]otherton. on the l [...]ft, whereHis second wife. Margaret Queen to King Edw. 1. took up as she was hunting, and was brought to bed of her soni Thomas sirnamed de Brotherton from this place, who was afterwards Earl of Norfolk, and Marshal of England. Somewhat below this town the river Are is joyned by the Dan, and then runs into the river Ouse. On the right, there is found a yellow marle A yellow Marle. of such virtue, that the fields once manur'd with it prove fruitful many years after. From hence the river is still carry'd on not much wide of Pontfract (or, broken bridge) commonly called Pontfreit, Pontfreit. which arose out of the ruins of Legcolium. In the Saxon times, the name of this town was Kirkby, which was changed by the Normans into Pontfract, T. de Castleford. because of a broken bridge there The story is, that there was a wooden bridge over this river there, when William Archbishop of York, and sister's son to King Stephen, returned from Rome; and that he was welcom'd here with such a c owd of people, that the bridge broke, and they fell into the river;S. Guilielmus Eboracensis. but the Archbishop wept and prayed so fervently, that not one of them was lost [u]. This town is sweetly situated, and is remarkable for producing Liquorish and Skirworts in great plenty: the buildings are neat, and secured by a castle which is very stately, and strongly founded upon a rock; and not only fortified, but beautified with many outworks. It was built by Hildebert Lacy a Norman, [...] to whom William the Conquerour gave this town, and the grounds about it, after he had dispossest A [...]ric a Saxon. [...] ▪ But Henry Lacy his Nephew (as the Pl [...]adings of those times tell us) being in the battel of Trenchbrey against Henry 1. was disseised of his Barony of Pontfract; and th [...]n the King gave the honour to Wido de Laval, who held it till King Stephen's time, when Henry de Lacy re-entred upon the said Barony; and by the K [...]ng's intercession, the difference was adjusted with Wido for 150 l. This Henry had a son Robert, who died without issue, leaving Albreda Lisours, [...] ▪ his sister by the mother's side, his heir; for there was no one else so nearly related to him: so that by the decease of Robert, both the inheritances, that of the Lacies by her brother, and that of the Lisours by her father, descended to her. This is word for word out of the Register of Stanlow Monastery. She was then married to Richard Fitz-Eustach (or the son of Eustachius) Constable of Chester, whose posterity have took the name of Lacy, and have [...]en honoured with the Earldom of Lincoln. The [...]ast daughter of this family conveyed this fair inheritance [...] by a short Deed to the Earls of Lancaster; who have enlarged the Castle very much: it was afterwards repaired, at great expence, by Queen Elizabeth, who began a fine Chapel here. The Castle has been fatal to great men: it was first stain'd with the blood of Thomas Earl of Lancaster6,Th [...] [...] Lan [...] who held it in right of his wife, and was the first of this family that own'd it. He was justly beheaded here by King Edward 2. for fomenting those plots and rebellions which embroiled the Kingdom: however, he was afterwards Sainted by the people. Here also King Richard 2. deposed by Henry 4. was barbarously destroyed with hunger, cold, and other unheard-of torments. Here Anthony Earl Rivers, Uncle to Edward 5. and Sir Richard Grey Knight, brother by the mothers-side to the said King Edward, were both murder'd (notwithstanding their innocence) by King Richard 3. For this tyrant was suspicious, that men of such spirits and honour as these were, might check his designs of tyranny and absolute power. As for the Abbey founded here by the Lacies, and the Hospital by the bounty of7 R. Knolles, I indust [...]iously omit them, because the very ruins of them are hardly in being.
From Legeolium we pass by Shirborn [w], a populous small town, (which takes that name from the clearness of the little river there, and was given by Athelstan to the Archbishops of York [x];) and so travel on upon a Roman way, very high rais'd, to Aberford, Abe [...] a little town situated just by that way, famous for its art of pin-making; those here made being in particular request among the Ladies. Under the town lies the course of the river Cock (or as 'tis in books Cokarus.) Between it and the town the [...]e is the foundation of an old Castle,Ca [...] (which they call Castle-Cary) still visible. About two miles from hence, where the Cock springs, stands Berwick in Elmet, Berw [...] E [...]. which is said to have been the royal seat of the Kings of Northumberland. It has been walled round, as the rubbish it self shews.He [...] On the other side stands Hessellwood, the chief seat of that particularly famous and ancient family the Vavasors, Va [...] or V [...] [...]. who take that name from their Office, (being formerly the King's Valvasors) and towards the end of Edward the first's reign, we find by the Writs of Summons of those times, that8 William Vavasor was summoned to Parliament among the other Barons of this Kingdom [y]. Under the town is the remarkable Quarry called Petres-Post, P [...] [Page] because the stately Church at York dedicated to St. Peter, was built with the stones hewed out there by the bounty of the Vavasors.
From Aberford the Cock runs somewhat slow to the river Wherf, as if it were melancholy, and detested Civil wars ever since it flowed with that English blood which was formerly shed here. For upon the very bank of this river, [...]. not far from Towton, a small country village, was truly the English Pharsalia. Here was the greatest fight of Nobility and Gentry, and the strongest army that ever was seen in England; no fewer than an hundred thousand fighting men on each side; who under the conduct of two daring and furious Captains, engaged here upon Palm-Sunday, in the year 1461. The Victory continued wavering for a long time; but at last the Lancastrians proved the weakest, even by their being too strong. For their number proved cumbersome and unweildy; which first caused disorder, and then flight. The York-party gave the chase briskly; which, together with the fight, was so bloody, that no less than 35000 English were cut off, and amongst them a great many of the Nobility. Somewhat below this place, [...]one- [...]y. near Shirburn, at a village called Huddleston, there is a noble Quarry; out of which when the stones are first cut, they are very soft; but by being in the air, they presently consolidate and harden9.
Out of the foot of Craven-hills springs the river Wherf or Wharf, [...]erf, riv. in Saxon Guerf, the course of which for a long way, keeps at an equal distance from the Are. If any one would derive the name of it from a British word Guer, swift, the nature of the river will favour him; for it's course is swift and violent, fretful and angry, as it were, at those stones which obstruct it's passage; and so rolls them along very strangely, especially when it swells by a wet winter. However, it is dangerous and rapid even in the summer time; as I am sensible by experience, who in my travels this way run no small risk in passing it. For it has either such slippery stones, that a horse's foot cannot fix on them; or else the current it self is so strong, that it drives them from under his feet. Tho' the course of it be long, (no less than fifty miles, computing from the first rise to its joyning the Ouse) yet there are no considerable towns upon it. It runs down by Kilnesey-Cragge (the highest and the steepest that ever I saw, [...]y [...].) to Burnsall, where Sir William Craven, Alderman of London, was born, and is now building a stone bridge; as he has lately, out of a pious concern for the good of his Country, founded a Free-school hard by [y]: then to Barden-towre, a little tower belonging to the Earls of Cumberland, noted for the good hunting thereabouts: then to Bolton, where stood formerly a little Monastery [z]: and to Bethmesley, the seat of the famous family of Claphams, of which was J. Clapham, a famous souldier in the Wars between York and Lancaster. Hence it passes by Ilekely, [...]a. [...]y. which I imagine to be the Olicana in Ptolemy, both from its situation in respect of York, and the resemblance of the two names. It is, without question, an ancient town; for (not to mention those engrav'd Roman pillars, lying now in the Churchyard and elsewhere) it was rebuilt in Severus's time by [...]on'd [...]an. [...]. ce [...] & [...]ar: [...]. Virius Lupus, Legate and Propraetor of Britain, as we are informed by an Inscription lately dug up near the Church.
AVG. ET ANTONINVS
CAES. DESTINATVS
RESTITVERVNT, CV-
RANTE VIRIO LVPO.
That the second Cohort of the Lingones quartered here, is likewise shewed us by an old Altar I have seen there, now put under a pair of stairs, and inscribed by the [...]ct. Captain of the second Cohort of the Lingones to Verbeia, perhaps the Nymph or Goddess of the Wherf (the river) called Verbeia, I suppose from the likeness of the two words.
CLODIVS FRONTO
PRAEF. COH. II LINGON.
For Rivers, says Gildas, in that age had divine honours paid them by the ignorant Britains. Epist. 41. And Seneca tells us of Altars dedicated to them; We worship the heads of great rivers, and we raise altars to their first springs. And Servius says, that every river was presided by some Nymph or other. In the walls of the Church there is this other imperfect Inscription.
RVM CAES.
AVG. —
ANTONINI
ET VERI
JOVI DILECTI
CAECILIVS
PRAEF. COH. [aa].
I found nothing in my search up and down the Church for pieces of Roman Antiquity, but the portraicture of Sir Adam Middleton, armed and cut out in stone, who seems to have liv'd in Edward the 1.'s reign. His posterity remain still in the neighbourhood, at a place called Stubham [bb].
Somewhat lower stands Otley, Otley. which belongs to the Archbishop of York; memorable for nothing but its situation under a huge craggy Cliff called Chevin. Chevin. For the ridge of a mountain is in British Chevin; Chevin, what it signifies. and so that long ridge of mountains in France (which formerly us'd the same language with our Britains) is called Gevenna Gevenna. and Gebenna. From hence the river flows in a chanel, bank'd on both sides with Limestone, by Harewood, Harewood. where stands a neat and strong Castle, which has always chang'd its master as the times turn'd. It was formerly the Curcies, but went from them, with Alice the heiress of that family, to Warren Fitz-Gerold, who married her,Placit. 1. Joan. Rot. 10. in D. Monstr. le droit. 35 Ed. 1. and had issue Margery; who being one of his heirs, and a great fortune, was first married to Baldwin de Ripariis, son to the Earl of Devonshire, who died before his father; and then, by King John's means, to Falcatius de Brent, a favourite, upon account of his great service in pillaging. Afterwards, Isabel de Ripariis, Countess of Devonshire, dying without issue, this Castle fell to Robert de Lisle, the son of Warren, as a relation,Lords de Insula, or Lisle. and one of her heirs. At last, by those of Aldborough, it came to the Rithers, as I learn'd from Fr. Thinn, who with great judgment and diligence has long studied the Antiquities of this Kingdom [cc]. Nor must I forget to take notice of a place just by, called Gawthorp, remarkable for that ancient and virtuous family the Gascoigns, Gascoigns. descended very probably from Gascoigne in France.
Hence, the course of the river Wherf is by Wetherby, Wetherby. a notable trading town, which has no remains of Antiquity, but only a place under it called Helensford, where a Roman military way has lain through the river [dd]. Then by Tadcaster, Tadcaster. a very small town; which yet I cannot but think was the same with Calcaria, Calcaria. both from the distance, name, and nature of the soil; especially, since it is agreeable to the opinion of Mr. Robert Marshall of Rickerton, a person of excellent judgment: for 'tis just nine Italian miles from York, which is the distance of Calcaria from it in Antoninus. And Limestone (which is the main ingredient in mortar) is no where to be found all about, but plentifully here; from whence it is conveyed to York, and all the Country round, for the use of building. This Limestone was call'd by the Britains, the Saxons, and the Northern English, after the manner of the Latins, Calc (‘For that imperious City not only impos'd her Laws upon those she had subdu'd,C [...]lcarienses. De Decur [...] onibus, l. 27. Roman Language in the Provinces. Augustin. l. 9. de Civit. Dei. but her Language too;’) and Calcarienses in the Theodosian Code is used to denote them who burnt this Limestone: from whence one might not improbably infer, that this town had the name Calcaria from the Limestone found there; like the city Chalcis from [Page] [...], brass; Ammon from [...] sand; Pteleon from [...], elms; and perhaps the city Calcaria in Clive from the word Calx. Especially considering that Bede calls it Calca-cester; who tells us farther, that k Heina, the first woman of this Country that turned Nun, came to this City, and lived in it. Again, here is by the town a hill called Kelcbar, which still retains something of the old name. For other proofs of Antiquity; not to mention its situation near a Roman Consular way, there are many Coins of Roman Emperours digged up in it, the marks of a trench quite round the town, and the platform of an old Castle still remaining; out of the ruins of which, a bridge was made over the Wherf, not many years ago. Not far from this bridge, the Wherf glides gently into the Ouse. And really, considering the many currents that fall into it, this so shallow and easie stream from the bridge is very strange, and might well give occasion to what a certain Gentleman that passed it in the summer-time said of it.
Yet if he had travell'd this way in winter, he would have thought the bridge little enough for the river. For, (as Natural Philosophers know very well) the quantity of water in springs and rivers ever depends upon the inward or outward heat and cold10 [ee].
Nid river.Somewhat higher, the river Nid, issuing from the roots of Craven-hills, is carried in a muddy chanel by Nidherdale, a valley so call'd from it; and thence under the covert of wood on both sides, by Ripley, Ripley. a market-town, where the family of the Inglebeys l flourisht with great antiquity and reputation [ff]. Then proceeds to Gnaresburgh, vulgarly Knarsborrow, Knarsborrow-castle. a Castle situated upon a craggy rock (from whence it takes its name) and surrounded by that deep river. 'Tis reported to have been built by Serlo de Burgh, uncle by the father's side to Eustace Vescy; afterwards it came to be the Seat of the Estotevilles; and now it belongs to the Dutchy of Lancaster. Under it, there is a fountain, which does not issue from the bowels of the Earth, but distills in drops from the rocks hanging over it, and so 'tis call'd Dropping-Well: Dropping-well. A Fountain that converts wood into stone. if a piece of wood be put in it, it shall be presently crusted over with a stony substance, and by degrees turn'd into stone [gg]. In the adjacent fields Liquorish grows plentifully, and they find a yellow soft marl, which proves an excellent rich manure. The office of Keeper of the Forest here, belong'd formerly to one Gamellus, whose posterity took the name of Screven from Screven the place of their habitation. From them are descended them Slingsbeys, Slingesbey. who were made Rangers of this Forest by King Edward the first, and live here at this day in a very flourishing condition. The Nid having pass'd these places, runs on but a little way before it falls into the Ouse, near Allerton the Seat of a truly ancient and famous family then Mallivers, Knights, who in old writings are call'd Mali-Leporarii.
Out of these Western mountains springs likewise the river Ure, Ure. but in another part of the Country, namely in the North-riding: which still retaining this name, and watering the North part of the County, a little before it comes to Rippon, is made the boundary between the North and the West-riding. This Rippon, Rippon. in Saxon hrippun, is situated between the Ure and the little river Skell, and owes its greatness to Religion; especially to a Monasterynn built by Wilfred Arch-bishop of York, in the infancy of the English Church; and wonderful, says Malmesbury, for its arched vaults, its fine pavements, and winding entries. But this pompous Mon [...]stery was entirely demolish'd (together with the whole town) by the Danes, whose outrage and cruelty knew no distinction between things sacred and prophane. After that, it was rebuilt by Odo Arch-bishop of Canterbury, who being a most religious observer of holy Rites, transferred the Reliques of St. Wilfrid from hence to Canterbury. However, this town was never so considerable as since the Norman Conquest, (when, as one tells us, greater plenty of Monasteries began to be built.) Then this Monastery began to encrease and flourish under the patronage of the Arch-bishops of York; and the town too, partly by the advantage of a Governour, call'd in Saxon Wakeman, Wake [...] that is to say Watchman; and also by their diligence in the woollen manufacture, which is now slackned. The town is adorn'd with a very neat Church, built by the contributions of the Gentry hereabouts, and of the Treasurer of the town; having three Spire-steeples, which welcome strangers to the town at a distance, and seem to vie witho the rich Abbey of Fountain, built within sight of it, by Thurstin Arch bishop of York [hh]. On one side of the Church stands a little College for singing-men, founded by Henry Both Arch-bishop of York; on the other side a great earthen Mount, call'd Hilshaw, cast up, as they say, by the Danes. Within the Church,S [...]. W [...] Nee [...]e. Wilfrid's Needle was mighty famous in the last age. The business was this; there was a strait passage into a room close and vaulted under ground, whereby trial was made of any woman's chastity: if she was chast, she pass'd with ease; but if otherwise, she was, by I know not what miracle, stopt and held there. This Monastery of Fountain Founta [...] is delicately situated, in a fruitful soil, wherein some veins of Lead are to be found; and had its original from twelve Monks of York, who affecting a more rigid and strict course of life, left their Cloisters; and after a great deal of trouble and hardship, were settled here by Thurstin Arch-bishop of York11, who then founded it for that purpose12. However, I should scarce have took notice of them, but that St. Bernard in his Epistles has so much commended their Order and Discipline.
Not much lower, upon the river Ure, is situated Burrowbridge, Burrowbridge. a little town so call'd from the bridge there which is made of stone, very high and stately; yet in Edward the second's time it seems to have been only a wooden one. For we find, that when the Barons harrass'd that King and the whole Kingdom, Humphrey de Bohun Earl of Hereford, in passing over it, was run up the groin quite through the body by a Souldier that lay in ambush under the bridge, and took the advantage of pushing through a chink. Just by the bridge, in three little fields to the Westward, I saw 4 huge stones, of a pyramidal form,Pyram [...] very rough and unpolish'd, placed, as it were, in a streight line one from another. The two middle stones (one of which was lately displac'd in hopes of finding mony) almost touch'd one another; the outer ones standing at some small and equal distance from them. As for the design or meaning of them, I have nothing to remark, but that my opinion is agreeable with some others in this point, That this has been a Roman trophy raised by the high-way, which runs along here. As for the silly stories of their being those bolts which the Devil shot at some cities hereabouts,Devils [...] ▪ and so destroy'd them; I think it not worth while to mention them. Thus much is observable, that many, and those learned men, are of opinion, that the stones kk [Page] are not natural, but artificially compounded of Sand, Lime, and Vitriol (for of this they fancy it has some grains) as also of an oily unctuous matter. Much like those cisterns at Rome, which Pliny tells us were made of Sand and a hot Lime, so very compact and firm, that one would have took them for real stone [ii].
Somewhat Eastward from the bridge before mention'd, [...]. stands Isurium Brigantum, an ancient city, which took its name from the Ure that wash'd it; but has been demolisht many ages since. Still there is a village upon the same spot, which carries antiquity in its name, being call'd Ealdburg and Aldborrow, [...]borrow. that is to say, an old Burrough. There is now little or no signs remaining of a City, the plot thereof being converted into arable and pasture grounds. So that the evidence of History it self would be suspected in testifying this to be the old Isurium, if the name of the river Ure, the Roman coins continually digg'd up here, and the distance between it and York, according to Antoninus, were not convincing and undeniable [kk]. For by that time the Ure (which from hence-forward the Saxons call'd Ouse, because the Ouseburne, a little brook, falls into it here) has run 16 Italian miles f [...]rther, it arrives at the City Eboracum or Eburacum, [...]um [...]. which Ptolemy (in Lib. 2. Magnae Constructionis) callsoo Brigantium, (if the Book be not faulty, and that mistake have not risen from it's being the Metropolis, of the Brigantes. Ninius calls it Caer-Ebrauc, the Britains Caer-Effroc, the Saxons Euor ƿic, and Eofor-ƿic, and we at this day York. The British History derives its name from the first founder, King Ebraucus. But with submission to other mens judgments, my opinion is that the word Eburacum comes from the river Ure; implying its situation to be upon that river. Thus the Eburovices in France, were seated by the river Ure, near Eureux in Normandy; the Eburones in the Netherlands, near the river Ourt, in the Diocese of Liege; and Eb-lana in Ireland, by the river Lefny. York is the second city in England, the finest in this County, and the great fence and ornament to those Northern parts. 'Tis both pleasant, large, and strong, adorn'd with fine buildings (both publick and private) populous, rich, and an Arch-bishop's See. The river Ure, which now takes the name Ouse, runs gently (as I said) from North to South, quite through this City, and so divides it into two parts, joyn'd by a Stone-bridge, which has one of the largest Arches that ever I saw. The West part of the City is less populous, and lies in a square form, enclosed partly with stately walls, and partly by the river, and has but one way to it, namely by Mikell-barr, which signifies a great Gate, from whence a broad fair built street on both sides leads to the very bridge, with fine Gardens behind them, and the fields for exercise extended to the very walls. In the South part of the fields, where the river forms an angle, I saw a mount which has probably been cast up for some Castle to be built there, now call'd the old Bale, which William Melton the Arch-bishop (as we find it in the lives of the Arch-bishops) fortified first with thick planks eighteen foot long, and afterwards with a stone wall; whereof there remains nothing now visible.
The East part of the City (where the buildings are thick, and the streets but narrow) is shap'd like a lentil, and strongly wall'd. On the South-east 'tis defended by a Foss or Ditch, [...] river. very deep and muddy, which runs by obs [...]ure ways into the very heart of the City, and has a bridge over it so throng'd with buildings on both sides, that a stranger would mistake it for a street: after which it falls into the Ouse. At the confluence, over against the Mount before mention'd, William the Conquerour built a prodigious strong Castle, to keep the Citizens in awe. But this, without any care, has been left to the mercy of time, ever since fortified places have grown in disrepute among us, as only fit for those who want courage to face an enemy in the open field [ll]. Towards the North-east, on this side also, stands the Cathedral, dedicated to St. Peter, a magnificent and curious fabrick; near which, without the walls, was ap noble Monastery, surrounded with the river and its own walls, nam'd St. Maries. It was founded by Alan the third, Earl of Bretaign in Armorica, and of Richmond here in England; and plentifully endow'd. But now 'tis converted into a Royal Palace, and is commonly call'd the Manour. The Manour.
As for the original of York, I cannot tell whence to derive it, but from the Romans; seeing the British towns before the coming in of the Romans were only woods fortified with a ditch and rampire, as Caesar and Strabo (who are evidence beyond exception) assure us. Without insisting upon the story of King Ebraucus (a word formed from the name Eboracum) who is grosly feigned to be the founder of it; this is certain, that the sixth Legion, call'd Victrix, was sent out of Germany into Britain by Hadrian, and garison'd here: and that this was a Roman Colony, we are assur'd both by Antoninus and Ptolemy, and an old Inscription, which I my self have seen in the house of a certain Alderman of this City:
And also from Severus the Emperour's Coins, which have this Inscription on the reverse of them; ‘COL. EBORACVM. LEG. VI. VICTRIX.’ But upon what grounds, Victor, The same Victor lately publisht by Andr. Schottus. in his History of the Caesars, calls York a Municipium, when it was a Colony, I cannot readily tell; unless the Inhabitants might desire, as the Praenestines did, to be chang'd from a Colony to a Municipium. Municipium. Colonia For Colonies were more obnoxious and servile; being not left to their own humour, as Agellius tells us, but govern'd by the Roman Laws and Customs. Whereas the Municipia were allow'd the free use of their own Constitutions, and enjoyed those honourable offices which the Citizens of Rome did, without being tied to any other duties; and therefore 'tis not strange that a Colony should be converted into a Municipium. But to what purpose is this nicety? For the difference between those two words is not always precisely observ'd in the History of the Caesars, but sometimes both Colonia and Municipium promiscuously apply'd to one and the same place. Yet from the Coins before-mention'd, I dare hardly affirm this Colony to have been planted here by Severus, seeing Ptolemy13 tells us that in the time of the Antonines this was the station of the sixth Legion. However, we read that SeverusSeverus. had his Palace here, and that he died in this city with these words in his mouth, The Commonwealth was disorder'd in all parts when I receiv'd it, yet I leave it all in peace and good temper, even to the Britains. His Corps were also brought out after the Roman manner by the Souldiers, and committed to the flames; and the day solemniz'd with races by his sons and souldiers, at a certain place under the town, not far to the west, near Ackham; where stands yet a huge mount, which Radulphus Niger tells us was in his time call'd Sivers from Severus. His ashes were preserv'd in a golden Urn, or a vessel of Porphyrite-stone, and transferr'd to Rome; where it was laid in the monument of the Antonines. I must not forget to take notice, that there stood a Temple dedicated to Bellona in this City; for Spartian speaking of the City, says, That Severus coming into it, Bellona's Temple. and intending to offer sacrifice, was first conducted to the Temple of Bellona by a mistake of an ignorant Augur. And that it was then so happy, as to have justice administred to it by that great Oracle of the Law Aemilius Paulus Papinianus, Forcatulus has told us. From this City the Emperours Severus and Antoninus, upon a question arising about the sense of the Law, dated their Rescript de Rei Vindicatione. About a hundred years after the death of [Page] Severus,Constantius Chlorus. Fla. Val. Constantius, sirnam'd Chlorus, an excellent Emperour, endow'd with all moral and christian virtues, came to this City (as the Panegyrist has it) the Gods calling him hither, as to the remotest part of the world. Here he died likewise, and was afterwards deified, as appears by the old Coins. And tho' Florilegus tells us, that his Tomb was found in Wales, as I have already observ'd; yet I have been inform'd by credible persons, that at the suppression of Monasteries in the last age, there was found a Lamp burning in the vault of a little Chapel here, and Constantius was thought to be buried there. Lazius tells us that the ancients had an art of dissolving gold into a fat liquor, and of preparing it so, that it would continue burning in the Sepulchres for many ages.Constantine the Great. Constantius by his first wife Helena had issue Constantinus Maximus, in Inscriptions stiled Romanae Urbis Liberator, Quietis fundator, and Reipublicae instaurator; who here received the last gasp of his dying father, and was immediately made Emperour, The Souldiers (as the Panegyrist says) regarding rather the benefit of the State, than their own private interests, cast the robes upon him, whilst he wept and clapt spurs to his horse to avoid the importunity of the army, attempting at that instant to make him Emperour; but at last his modesty gave way to the happiness of the State. And therefore he exclaims at last; O fortunate Britain, now blessed above all Nations for having seen Constantine first Emperour. Again— Liberavit ille Britannias servitute, tu etiam nobiles illic oriendo fecisti: i.e. He rescued the Britains from slavery, but thou hast enobled them by being born there. For in the judgment of the learned Baronius and others, this passage refers to the native Country of Constantine. But I will not here repeat what I have already said.
From all this, it may be inferr'd what figure Eboracum then made in the world; seeing it was the Seat of the Roman Emperours. Our own Historians tell uspp, that it was made an Episcopal See by Constantius. But that Taurinus the Martyr, Bishop of the Eburovices or Eureux presided here, I am not inclin'd, with others,Vincentii Speculum Historiale. to believe; for Vincentius, by whom they were tainted with this errour, would confute me with his own words. When the Romans withdrew themselves, and left Britain a prey to barbarous Nations; such a weighty share of miseries fell to this City, that towards the end of the Scotch and Saxon wars, it was nothing but the mere fame and Echo of what it had been. For when Paulinus preached Christianity to the Saxons of this Province, it was reduced so low, that the whole City could not afford so much as a small Church wherein to baptize King Edwin, who, in the year 627. rais'd a fabrick of wood for Divine Service; and after that, intending to build another of stone, he had hardly laid the foundation but he died, leaving the work to be finisht by his successor King Oswald. From this time the City began to be great in Ecclesiastical affairs. Pope Honorius sent it a Pall, Scotland formerly subje [...] to the Arch-bishop of York. See in Scotland. and it was made a Metropolitan City, endowed with soveraignty not only over twelve Sees here in England, but over all the Bishopricks of Scotland. But Scotland hath disown'd her Prerogative many years since, and she her self hath swallowed up several small inconsiderable Bishopricks hereabouts, so that the whole Province is now reduc'd to the four Sees of Durham, Chester, Carlisle, and Man or Sodor, in the Isle of Man. Egbert an Arch-bishop of this See, who lived about the year 740. founded a noble Library The Library. here (these are the words of Malmsbury) a Treasury and Cabinet, if I may so express my self, enrich'd with all Arts and Sciences. Of which also, Alcuinus of York, (who was Tutor to Charles the great, the first Author of an Academy at Paris, as also the great glory of this City) makes mention of it in his Epistle to the said Charles the great:Fl [...]ccus Alcuinus or Albinus, flourish'd about 780. Give me such excellent and learned Books for Scholastick Divinity, as I have seen in my own Country collected by the useful and pious industry of Egbert, Arch-bishop. And if it seem proper to your Wisdom, I will send some of your own servants, who may copy out of them such things as be necessary, and so transport the flowers of Britain into France, that this garden may no longer be confined to York, but somethirg of that Paradise may be transplanted to q Tours. The Church of York was by the Princes of that time endow'd with many large possessions, especially by Ulphus the son [...]f Toraldus: which I the rather note, from an old b [...]ok, that a strange way of endowing heretofore may be took notice of. This Ulphus govern'd in the west parts of Deira, and by reason of a difference like to happen between his eldest son and his youngest, about the Lordships after his death, he presently took this course to make them equal. Without delay he went to York, and taking the horn wherein he was wont to drink, with him, he fill'd it with wine, and kneeling upon his knees before the Altar, bestow'd upon God and the blessed S. Peter, Prince of the Apostles, all his Lands and Tenements. This horn was kept there to the last age, as I have been informed.
It would seem to reflect upon the Clergy, if I should relate the emulations and scuffles which ambition has raised between the two Sees of York and Canterbury, whilst with great expence of money, but more of reputation, they warmly contended for pre-eminence.T. [...] r For (as one relates it) the See of York was equal in dignity, tho' it was the younger, and the poorer sister; and this being raised to the same power that the See of Canterbury was, and endowed with the same Apostolical privileges, took it very heinously to be made subject, by the decree of P. Alexander, declaring that the Arch-bishoprick of York ought to yield to that of Canterbury, and pay an obedience to her, as Primate of all Britain, in all her Constitutions relating to the Christian Religion. It falls not within the compass of my design, to treat of the Arch-bishops of this See, many of whom have been men of great virtue and holiness. 'Tis enough for me to observe, that from the year 625. when Paulinus the first Arch-bishop was consecrated, there have succeeded in it threescore and five Arch-bishops,The [...] sixth A [...] bish [...]p to the year 1606. in which D. Tobias Matthews, Venerable for his virtue and piety, for his learned eloquence, and for his indefatigable industry in teaching, was translated hither from the Bishoprick of Durham [mm].
This City very much flourish'd for some time under the Saxon Government, till the Danish storms from the North began to rush on, and spoil'd its beauty again by great ruins and dismal slaughter. Which Alcuin in his Epistle to Egelred King of the Northumbrians seems to have foretold. For he says, What can be the meaning of that shower of blood, which in Lent we saw at York, the Metropolis of the Kingdom, near St. Peter's Church, descending with great horrour from the roof of the North part of the House in a clear day? May not one imagine that this forebodes destruction and blood among us from that quarter? For in the following age, when the Danes laid every thing they came at waste and desolate, this City was destroy'd with continual sufferings. In the year 867. the walls of it were so shaken by the many assaults made upon them, that Osbright and Ella, Kings of Northumberland, as they pursued the Danes in these parts, easily broke into the City, and after a bloody conflict in the midst of it, were both slain, leaving the victory to the Danes, who had retired hither. Hence that of William of Malmesbury; York, ever most obnoxious to the fury of the northern nations, hath sustained the barbarous assaults of the Danes, and groaned under the miseries it hath suffered. But, as the same author informs us, King Athelstan took it from the Danes, and demolish'd that castle wherewith they had fortified it. Nor in after-ages was it quite rid of those wars, in that especially, which was so fatal for the subversion of Cities.
But the Normans, as they put an end to these miseries, so they almost brought destruction to York. For when the sons of Sueno the Dane arrived here with a fleet of two hundred and forty sail,A [...]f [...] [...] the [...] of the [...] Burle [...] Treas [...] of E [...]g [...] ▪ and landed hard [Page 721-722] by; the Normans, who kept garrison in two castles in the city, fearing lest the houses in the suburbs might be serviceable to the enemy in filling up the trenches, set them on fire; which was so encreased and dispersed by the wind, that it presently spread about the whole city, and set it all on fire. In this disorder and hurry the Danes took the town, putting the Townsmen and the Normans to the sword with great slaughter; yet sparing William Mallet and Gilbert Gant, the principal men among them, for a DecimationDeci [...]on. among the soldiers afterwards. For every tenth prisoner of the Normans on whom the lot fell, was executed. Which so exasperated William the Conquerour, that (as if the citize [...]s had sided with the Danes) he cut them all off, and set the City again on fire: and (as Malmesbury says) so spoiled all the adjacent territory, that a fruitful Province was quite disabled and useless; that the country for sixty miles together lay so much neglected, that a stranger would have lamented at the sight of it (considering that formerly here had been fine cities, high towers, and rich pastures;) and that no former inhabitant would so much as know it. The ancient greatness of the place may appear from Domesday. In the time of Edward the Confessor, the City of York contained six Shires or Divisions, besides the Shire of the Archbishop. One was wasted for the castles; in the five remaining Shires there were 1428 houses inhabited, and in the Shire of the Archbishop two hundred houses inhabited. After all these overthrows, Necham sings thus of it:
For in his days, these troublesome times being followed with a long and happy peace, this city began to revive, and continued flourishing, notwithstanding it was often marked out for destruction by our own Rebels and the Scotch. Yet in King Stephen's time, it was most sadly ruined again by a casual fire, which burnt down the Cathedral, St. Mary's Monastery, and other Religious houses; and also, as 'tis supposed, that excellent Library which Alcuin tells us was founded by his Master, Archbishop Egelred. The Monastery did not lye long till it rose again; but the Cathedral lay neglected till Edw. 1.'s time, and then it was begun by John Roman, Treasurer of this Church, and brought to that stately pitch we now see it of, by his son John, William Melton, and John Thoresby, all Archbishops [nn], together with the contributions of the Gentry thereabouts: especially of the Percies and the Vavasors; as the Arms of those families in the Church, and their portraictures in the gate, do shew. The Percies are cut out with a piece of timber, and the Vavasors with a stone, in their hands; in memory of the one's having contributed stone, and the other timber, [...]ent. p. p. [...]. 1. to this new fabrick. The church (as we are told by the Author of the Life of Aeneas Silvius, or Pope Pius 2. as he had it from his own mouth) is famous for its magnificence and workmanship all the world over, and for a lightsome Chapel with shining walls, and small thin-wasted pillars quite round. This is the beautiful Chapter-house, where the following verse is writ in golden Letters:
About the same time the Citizens began to fortifie themselves with new walls, adding many towers for a farther security; and made excellent laws for their government. King Rich. 2. made it a County incorporate, and Rich. 3. began to raise a new Castle in it from the ground. That nothing might be wanting, in the last age K. Hen. 8. established a Council or Senate here, not unlike the Parliaments in France,The Council established in the North. who were to judge of all suits arising within these northern parts, and to decide them by the rules of right and equity. This Court consists of a President, and what number of Counsellors the King pleases, with a Secretary and under-Officers. Our Mathematicians have defined the Longitude of York to be 22 deg. and 25 scr. the Latitude 54 degr. and 10 scr.
Thus far we have been describing the west part of this County, and the City of York, which neither belongs to this nor any other part of the Shire, but enjoys its own Liberties, and a jurisdiction over the neighbourhood on the west-side, called the liberty of Ansty: Ansty. which some derive from Ancienty, to denote its antiquity; others more plausibly from the German word Anstossen, implying a bound or limit. I will conclude what I have said of this City with these verses written by J. Jonston of Aberdeen not long since.
The Ouse being past York, begins to be disturb'd with eddies, or that whirl of waters which we call Higra, and so marches by Bishops-Thorp, Bishops-Thorpe. that is, the Bishop's Village; formerly called S. Andrew's Thorpe, till Walter Grey Archbishop of York purchased it; and, to bilk the King's Officers (who are always ready to seise the Temporalities of Bishops when a See is vacant) gave it to the Dean and Chapter of York, upon condition they should always yield it to his successors. Of whom, Richard le Scrope, Arch-bishop of York (a hot man, and still hankering after novelty and change) was in this very place condemned of high treason by King Henry the fourth for his seditious practices [oo]. 1405 Upon the same river stands Cawood, Cawood▪ the castle of the Archbishops, which King Athelstan gave to the Church, as I have been told. Over against it, on the other side the river, is seated Rical, where Harold Haardread arrived with a numerous fleet of the Danes. From hence the Ouse runs to Selby, a pretty populous little town, and remarkable for Henry the first's being born in it. Here William the first, his father, built a Church in memory of St. German, who quash'd the Pelagian Heresie, notwithstanding like a Hydra, it had frequently revived and struggl'd for life, here in Britain. The Abbots of this, and of St. Maries at York, were the only Abbots of these northern parts that could sit in Parliament [pp]. At last the Ouse runs directly to the Humber 14, passing in it's way by Drax, D [...]ax. a little village, formerly famous for a Monastery15, where Philip de Tollevilla (William Newbrigensis is my Author) had a castle strongly situated in the midst of rivers, woods, and marshes; and defended it against K. Stephen, relying on the courage of his men, and the great store of arms and provisions in the place: however, it was soon reduced into the King's power [qq].
ADDITIONS to the West-riding of YORKSHIRE.
YORKSHIRE (without any angular advantages) extends into a square of fourscore and ten miles, [...]. p. [...]74. adequate in all its dimensions to the Dukedom of W [...]rtenberg in Germany.
[a] Following the river Don, we first come to Wortley: Wortl [...]y. the Issue-male of the family of which name expir'd in Sir Francis Wortley, Sid. Reports, 315. who devis'd the greatest part of his estate to Anne Newcomen, supposed to be his natural daughter, the present wife of the Honourable Sidney Wortley Esq (Dugd. Bar. 2 Vol. p. 445 second son of Edward Mountague Earl of Sandwich, slain in the Dutch wars 28 May, 1672.) who in right of his said wife is Lord of Wortley.
[b] Not far from hence is Wentworth. W [...]ntworth Of the family of that name and place, was the Right Honourable Thomas Viscount Wentworth, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, created Earl of Strafford 15 Car. 1. and Knight of the most noble order of the Garter: who being beheaded on Tower-hill 12 May, 1641. lyeth here interr'd, and was succeeded in his Honours by his son William the present E. of Strafford, and Knight of the said noble Order.
[c] The Don carries us next to Sheafield, Sheafi [...]ld. the Stapletown for Knives, and has been so these three hundred years. Witness that Verse of Chaucer's, ‘A Sheffield whittle bare he in his hose.’ Many of the Talbots, Earls of Shrewsbury, are here interr'd, particularly, George the first of that name and title, who dy'd the 26th of July, 1538. and his grandson of the same name (to whose custody Mary, Q. of Scots, was committed) the date of whose death is now inserted upon the Tomb [xviii. Novembris, anno redemptionis Christi MDLXXXX] which is the more worthy our observation, because it was deficient in that part when Sir William Dugdale publish'd hisVol. 1. p. 334. Baronage. His son Gilbert, likewise interr'd here, gave 200 l. per An. to the poor of Sheafield, where his great grandson erected a stately Hospital with this Inscription: ‘The Hospital of the Right Honourable Gilbert E [...]rl of Shrewsbury, erected and setled by the Right Honourable Henry Earl of Norwich, Earl Marshal of England, Great grand child of the aforesaid Earl, in pursuance of his last Will and Testament, Anno Dom. 1673.’ The Manour of Sheafield is descended from the said Earl Marshal to the present Duke of Norfolk. The Castle (mention'd by our Author) was built of stone in the time of Henr. 3. and was demolisht (when other Castles also were order'd to be ras'd) after the death of King Charles the first. Here it was (or in the Manour-house in the Park) that Mary Queen of Scots was detain'd Prisoner in the custody of George Duke of Shrewsbury, between sixteen and seventeen years. Concerning the vast Oak tree growing in this Park, I refer the Reader to Mr. Evelyn's account of it.
Before the river Don comes to Rotheram, it passes close by a fair Roman fortification, call'd Temple-Brough. Temple-Brough. The North-east corner of it is worn away by the river: the area is about 200 paces long, and 120 broad, besides the agger; and without it is a very large Trench, [...]37. paces deep from the middle of the Rampire to the bottom. On the outside of it is another large bench, upon which are huge trees; and upon the side of the bench of the high-way, there grew a Chesnut-tree, that had scarce any bark upon it, but only upon some top-branches, which bore leaves. It was not tall; but the Bole could scarcely be fathom'd by three men.
On the North-side of the river, over aginst Templebrough, is a high Hill call'd Winco-bank, W [...]-b [...]. from which a large bank is continu'd without interruption almost five miles; being in one place call'd Danes-bank. And about a quarter of a mile South from Kemp-bank (over which this Bank runs) there is another agger, which runs parallel with that from a place call'd Birchwood, running towards Mexburgh, and terminating within half a mile of its West-end; as Kemp-bank runs by Swinton to Mexburg more North.
[d] Below, upon the same river, lyes Rotheram, [...] famous as for the birth of Thomas Rotheram so also for that of the learned and judicious Dr. Robert Sanderson, late Bishop of Lincoln. Near which is Thribergh, the Seat of Sir William Reresby, [...]. Baronet.
[e] Not far from hence is Connisborough C [...] [...] W [...], the birth-place of Richard Plantagene: Duke of York, grandson to King Edward 3. and grandfather to King Edw 4. who tampering too soon for the Crown, was beheaded by King Henry 5. The Castle here hath been a large strong built Pile, whereof the out-walls are sta [...]ding, situate on a pleasant ascent f [...]om the river, but m [...]ch over-topp'd by a high hill on which the town stands. Before the gate is an agger, by tradition said to be the burying place of Hengist. In the Church-yard, under the wall, lyes a very ancient stone of blue marble, with antique figures upon it; one representing a man with a target encount [...]ing a vast winged Serpent, with a man bearing a target behind him. It is ridg'd like a Coffin, on which is engraven a man on horseback, curiously cut, but very ancient.
[f] Nigh this town is Carhouse, Ca [...] the Seat of John Gill Esq High-Sheriff of the County A. D. 1692. and above three miles off is Aston, A [...]. the ancient Seat of the Lord D' Arcys, now Earls of Holderness.
[g] Going along with the river, [...] ▪ we come to Doncaster, where in St. George's Church, the only one in the town, is interr'd Thomas Ellis, five times Mayor, and a Benefactor, founder of an Hospital call'd St. Thomas the Apostle: and one Byrks that gave Rossington-wood to the publick, with this uncouth Inscription upon his Tomb. Howe. Howe. Who is heare, I Robin of Doncastere and Margaret my feare, that I spent that I had, that I gave that I have, that I left that I lost. A. D. 1579. Quoth Robertus Byrkes, who in this world did reign threescore years and seven, and yet lived not one.
This place, since our Author's time, hath afforded the title of Viscount to James Hay Baron of Sauley, created 16 Jac. 1. and afterwards in the 20th year of the same King, made Earl of Carlisle, and was succeeded in his estate and titles by James his son, who dy'd without issue. Whereupon, in the 15th of Car. 2. James Fitz-Roy Baron of Tindale, was created Earl of Doncaster, and Duke of Monmouth.
[h] Thence Done runneth by Wh [...]atley, W [...] the Seat of Sir George Cook Baronet, whose uncle Bryan Co [...]k E [...] gave by Will A. 1660. the whole Rectory of Ark [...]y to five Trustees for the payment of so much to the Vicar there, as with his ancient stipend of 12 l. 13 s. 4 d. will amount to 100 l. per Ann. He gave also 40 l. per An. to a School-master to instruct the poor of the Parish, and 60 l. for the building of a Hospital for twelve of the ancientest poor, which receive each 5 l. per An. His brother Sir George Cook Baronet, gave by Will (1683.) 200 l. and two Cottages for building of a fair School-house.
Scarce two miles from Arksey, A [...] lyes Adwick in the street, memorable on this account, that Mrs. Anne Savill (a Virgin Benefactor yet living) daughter of John Savill of Medley Esq purchas'd the Rectory thereof, for which she gave about 900 l. and has settl'd it in the hands of Trustees for the use of the Church for ever: and this from a generous and pious principle, upon the reading of Sir Henry Spelman's noted Treatise, De non temerandis Ecclesiis. Mr. Joshua [Page] Brook, the present Incumbent, has erected this Inscription over the door of the Parsonage-house, built from the foundation at his own charge: Rectoria de Adwick accessit Clero ex donatione Dnae Annae Savile ex prosapiâ Savillorum de M [...]thley oriundae.
[i] The next place of note is Hatfield-chace, where Cadwallin King of the Britains (the [...]. printed Bede calls him Carduella, but Ceadwalla seems to be the right, as it is in a MS. Bede now in the hands of Mr. Thoresby of Leeds) with Penda Pagan King of Mercia, in a bloody battel slew Edwyn, the first Christian King of Northumberland, and Prince Offride his eldest son in the year 633. Here are many Firr-trees found in the ground: and here was also the birth place of Prince William, second son of K. Ed. 3. A. 1335. which the rather deserves our mention, because by most Historians, it is misplac'd at Hatfield in Hertfordshire; but that it is an errour, plainly appears by the Rolls, which tell us that Queen Philippa gave 5 marks per An. to the neighbouring Abbot of Roch, and 5 nobles to the Monks there, to pray for the soul of this her son William de Hatfield, which summs are transferr'd to the Church of York, where he was buried, and are to this day paid by the Earl of Devonshire to the Bishop, and Dean and Chapter of York▪ out of the Impropriation of the Rectory of Hatfield. Near the town are many entrenchments, as if some great army had been there encampt. 'Tis said that no Rats have ever been seen in this town; nor any Sparrows at a place call'd Lindham, in the Moors below it; tho' it is a good earth for corn or pasture, but encompast with a morass.
[...][k] Near the confluence of Don and Are, is Cowick, the pleasant Seat of the ancient family of the Dawneys (which name occurs frequently amongst the Sheriffs of this County) of which Sir John Dawney was by King Charles 2. advanc'd to the degree of Viscount Downe in the Kingdom of Ireland.
[...]th[l] Not far from Nosthill is Hemsworth, where Robert Holgate Arch-bishop of York (depriv'd in the first of Queen Mary for being marry'd) did An. 1544. found an Hospital for ten poor aged men, and as many women, who have each about 10 l. per An. and the Master who is to read Prayers to them, betwixt 50 and 60 l. per An. He was likewise a Benefactor to, if not Founder of, the School there.
[...]The Levels or Marshes mention'd by our Author, especially eastward, and north-east of Thorn (a market town) are generally a Turf-moor; in other places intermix'd with arable and pasture grounds. By reason of the many Meres, it was formerly well-stor'd with f esh-water fish (especially Eels) and Fowl. But in the reign of King Charles 1. several Gentlemen undertook to drain this morish and fenny country, by drawing some large rivers, with other smaller cuts. There is an angle cut from about Thorne to Gowle, which is ten miles in length, and extraordinary broad. As to what our Author observes of the ground being heav'd up, Dr. Johnston affirms he has spoke with several old men, who told him, that the Turf-moor betwixt Thorn and Gowle was so much higher before the draining (especially in winter-time) than they are now; that before, they could see little of the Church-steeple, whereas now they can see the Church-yard wall.
Under the Turf-earth and other grounds, from one yard to two yards deep, are frequently dug up great quantities of firr-wood, and some oaks: the wood of the latter being very black. At low water, the foresaid learned Doctor has often observ'd in the great cut to Gowle-sluce, several roots of trees; some very large standing upright, others inclining to the east: some of the trees have been found lying along with their roots fasten'd, others seem'd as if cut or burnt, and broke off from the roots. Upon the digging of these large rivers, there were found gates, ladders, hammers, shoes, nuts, &c. and the land in some places was observ'd to lay in ridges and furrows, as if it had been plow'd. Under some part of the Turf-more, firm earth was found; but in other places nothing but sand.
About thirty years since they met with the entire body of a man at the bottom of a Turf-pit, about four yards deep, with his head northward, his hair and nails not decay'd. Dr. Johns [...]on has the hand, and the arm to the elbow; who by laying it in warm water, softned it so (tho' otherwise like tann'd leather) that he took out the bones, which were spungy. 'Tis said that in the cut-river to Gowle, there was found a Roman Coyn, either of Domitian or Trajan.
[m] After the river Don, our next direction is the river Calder, near which lyes Bradley, Bradley. famous for the nativity of Sir Henry Savil (brother to Sir John, mention'd by Mr. Camden) Warden of Merton-College, and Provost of Eaton, the noble editor of St. Chrysostome.
[n] At some distance from this river is Halifax, Halifax. to which town and parish Mr. Nathaniel Waterhouse, by Will dated the first of July 1642. was an eminent BenefactorExtra [...]t of his Will., by providing an House for the Lecturer, an Hospital for 12 aged poor, and a Work-house for 20 children (the Overseer whereof is to have 45 l. per An.) and a yearly Salary to the preaching Ministers of the 12 Chapelries, which, with moneys for repair of the banks, amounts to 300 l. per Ann. Brian Crowther Clothier, gave also 10 l. per An. to the poor, and 20 l. per An. to the Free-school of Queen Elizabeth in the Vicarage of Halifax. In this Church is interr'd the heart of William Rokeby (of the Rokebys of Kirk-Sandal by Doncaster, where he was born) Vicar of Halifax, and person of Sandall, afterwards Bishop of Meath and Arch-bi [...]hop of Dublin, where dying the 29th of Nov. 1521. he order'd his bowels to be bury'd at Dublin, his heart at Halifax, and his body at Sandall, and over each a Chapel to be built; which was perform'd accordingly.
The vast growth and increase of this town may be guess'd at from this instance, which appears in a MS. of Mr. John Brearcliff's, of one John Waterhouse Esq born An. 1443. He was Lord of the Manour, and liv'd nigh a hundred years; in the beginning of whose time, there were in Halifax but 13 houses, which in 123 years were increas'd to above 520 householders that kept fires, and answer'd the Vicar An. 1566.
It is honour'd by giving title to the Right Honourable George Lord Savile of Eland, Earl and Marquiss of Halifax: and with the nativity of Dr. John Tillotson, Arch-bishop of Canterbury. So that this West-riding of Yorkshire has the honour of both the Metropolitans of our Nation, Dr. John Sharp Archbishop of York, being born in the neighbouring town and contiguous parish of Bradford; where Mr. Peter Sunderland (of an ancient family at High-Sunderland nigh Halifax) besides other benefactions, founded a Lecture, and endow'd it with 40 l. per An.
But nothing is more remarkable than their methods of proceeding against Felons;The Law of Halifax. which in short was this: That if a Felon was taken within the Liberty with Goods stoln out of the Liberties or Precincts of the Forest of Hardwick, he should after three Markets or Meeting-days within the town of Halifax, next after his apprehension, be taken to the Gibbet there, and have his head cut off from his body. But then the fact must be certain; for he must either be taken hand-habend, i.e. having his hand in, or being in the very act of stealing; or back-berond, i.e. having the thing stoln either upon his back, or somewhere about him, without giving any probable account how he came by it; or lastly confesson'd, owning that he stole the thing for which he was accused.
The cause therefore must be only theft, and that manner of theft only which is call'd furtum manifestum, grounded upon some of the foresaid evidences. The value of the thing stoln must likewise amount to above 13 d. ob. for if the value was found only so much, and no more, by this Custom he should not dye for it.
He was first brought before the Bailiff of Halifax, who presently summon'd the Frithborgers within the several Towns of the Forest; and being found guilty, within a week was brought to the Scaffold. The Ax was drawn up by a pulley, and fasten'd with a pin to the side of the Scaffold. If it was an horse, an ox, or any other creature, that was stoln; it was brought along [Page] with him to the place of execution, and fasten'd to the cord by a pin that stay'd the block. So that when the time of execution came (which was known by the Jurors holding up one of their hands) the Bailiff or his Servant whipping the beast, the pin was pluckt out, and execution done. But if it was not done by a beast, then the Bailiff or his Servant cut the rope.
But the manner of execution will be better apprehended by the following draught of it.
- A A. The Scaffold.
- B. The piece of wood wherein the Axe is fix'd.
- C. The Axe.
- D. The Pulley by which the Axe is drawn up.
- E. The Malefactor who lyes to be beheaded.
- F. The pin to which the Rope is ty'd that draws up the Axe.
[o] On the other side of the Calder, is Cambodunum, Cambodunum. which probably was built most of wood, there being no manner of appearance of stone or brick. The fire that burnt it down seems to have been exceeding vehement, from the cinders which are strangely solder'd together. One lump was found of above 2 foot every way, the earth being melted rather than burnt. But Mr. Camden's guess at a burning there from the blackness of the stones in the buildings, is groundless: for the edges of them are so in the Quarry which is half a mile off; and so deep, that for fire to reach them there, is impossible.
[p] Next, the Calder goes to Wakefield,Wakefield. where by the noble charity of the pious Lady Campden, is a weekly Lecture, endow'd with fourscore pounds per An. The other (for she left three thousand pounds to Trustees for the founding two Lectures in the north of England) is at Grantham. Upon the light hand of the high-way leading from Wakefield to Sandal, there is a small square plot of ground hedg'd in from a Close, within which (before the war between K. Charles and the Parliament) there stood a Cross of stone, where Richard Duke of York was slain. The owners are oblig'd by the tenure of the land to hedge it in from the Close. The carved work of stone upon the Chapel, built by King Edward 4. on the bridge, hath been very beautiful, but is now much defac'd. The whole structure is artificially wrought about ten yards long and six broad.
D [...]t [...]n.At some distance from hence is Darton of the Beaumonts, of which Mr. George Beaumont a Merchant left 500 l. for the founding a Free-school in this place of his nativity, as much to poor Ministers, 150 l. to the poor of London, 50 l. to York, 30 l. to Hull, with a considerable estate amongst his relations.
Farther from the Calder, lyes Burton-grange, Burt [...]-grang [...]. where the no less religious than honourable Lady Mary Talbot, second daughter and coheir of Henry Talbot, fourth son of the illustrious George Talbot Earl of Shrewsbury, erected an Hospital for six poor widows, each of which have 40 s. and a Gown every year. She built also and endow'd two other Hospitals in other Counties during her life, and at her death (An. 1675.) left 40 l. per An. for 99 years, to be put to such like uses.
More to the south is Stainbrough, Stainbrough. where Henry Edmunds Esq has generously built a good house for the Minister; and Mr. Walker, late Master of University-College, has annex'd a Library to the school.
Two miles from Howley is Drighlington, D ighliton. memorable only for the nativity of Dr. James Margetson late Archbishop of Armagh, who founded here a school, and endow'd it with 60 l. per An.
[q] The river Are, our next guide, runs to Skipton, Skipt [...]n. where lye interr'd several of the Cliffords, particularly, George third Earl of Cumberland, honour'd with the Garter by Queen Elizabeth, and famous for his sea-services, performingInsc [...]p [...] on in S [...] ton Ca [...] nine Voyages in his own person, most of them to the West-Indies, being the best born Englishman that ever hazarded himself in that kind. He died 30 Oct. 1605. leaving one only daughter Anne, Countess of Pembroke, Dorset, and Montgomery, an eminent benefactor, born 30 Jan. 1589/90. at Skipton-Castle in Yorkshire, wherein I am the more particular, because Dr. Fuller in his Worthies (Com. West. p. 140.) out of a mistake, says 'twas in Hertfordshire. She built from the ground, or considerably repair'd, six ancient Castles; one of which, Brough, had lain 140 years desolate after the fire had consum'd it, An. 1520. Another,See the [...] ditio [...] W [...]stm [...] land. Pendragon-castle (of which our Author tells us, nothing remain'd in his time but the bare name and an heap of stones,) 320 years after the invading Scots, under their King David, had wasted it An. 1341. She built also seven Chapels or Churches, with two stately Hospitals richly endow'd; and died 22 March A. D. 1675. This Country (Craven) hath given the title of Earl to William Craven, Baron of Hampsted Marshal, created Earl of Craven Mari 16. An. 16 Car. 2.
From hence the Are passeth by Thornton, the seat of Richard Thornton Esq, to Rawdon, Rawdon. famous for Sir George Rawdon, a most accomplish'd person, who with 200, or fewer British, most valiantly repulsed Sir Philim o Neile, at the head of an army of about 7000 rebels assaulting Lisnegarvy (now Lisburn) in Ireland, in that grand massacre 1641. wherein thousands of Protestants were most cruelly murder'd. There now resideth Henry (son of Francis) Layton Esquire; who, in pursuance of his said father's will, has built there, and endow'd with 20 l. per an. a Chapel, which was consecrated by Archbishop Dolben, 4 May 1684.
[r] Upon the same river is Leeds, Leeds. (possibly from the Saxon Leod, gens, natio; implying it to have been very populous in the Saxon times;) which town and parish King Charles 1. by Letters Patents 13 July, second of his reign, incorporated under the government of one chief Alderman, nine Burgesses, and twenty Assistants; Sir John Savil, afterwards Lord Savil, being the first Alderman, and his office executed by John Harrison Esquire, a most noble benefactor, and a pattern to succeeding ages. 1. He founded a Hospital for relief of indigent persons of good conversation, and formerly industrious; which he endowed with 80 l. per an. and a Chapel, endowed with 10 l. per an. for a Master to read Prayers, and to instruct them. 2. He built the Free-school (to which Godfrey Lawson Esquire, Mayor of the Burrough of Leeds An. 1669. has added a Library) placed it upon his own ground, and enclos'd it with a beautiful wall. 3. He built a most noble Church, dedicated to S. John the Evangelist, and endowed it with 80 l. per an. with 10 l. per an. to keep it in repair; and provided a house for the Minister. 4. He erected a stately Cross for the conveniency of the market. When his estate was almost exhausted in acts of charity, he left the remainder for relief of [Page 729-730] such of his relations as by the frowns of the world should unhappily be reduced to poverty, bequeathing 30 l. per an. to be managed by four Trustees, to put out the males to trades, and to prefer the females in marriage. And as these are instances of his charity, so in a Codicil annex'd to his Will, there is a fair testimony of his strict justice and integrity. Whereas I heretofore bought of Richard Falkingham Esq divers lands and tenements, part of which I endow'd the New Church withal, and part I since sold to several persons for a good sum of money more than I purchas'd the same for, I thought my self bound to bestow upon the eldest son of John Green, and the eldest son of John Hamerton, who marry'd the coheirs of the said Richard Falkingham, the surplus of all such moneys as I sold the lands for, over and above what indeed they cost me: together with a large addition thereunto: the product of the whole sum amounting to 1600 l. which upon a strict estimate of his whole estate, appears to be a full half.
He was baptiz'd in S. Peter's Church at Leeds, the 16. of Aug. 1579. was chief Alderman 1626. and again 1634. in which year the new Church of his own foundation was consecrated 21. Sept. by Richard Neile; then Archbishop of York. He dy'd Oct. 29. A. D. 1656. aet. 77. and lyes interr'd under an Altar-tomb of black marble in the said Church; over which is the well-painted effigies of this Benefactor (in his sca [...]et-gown,) the gift of the reverend Mr. Henry Rob [...]nson, the present incumbent, who is perhaps the single instance of one that enjoys a Church both founded and endow'd by his own Uncle, and from whom there is a fair and near prospect of some exemplary act of publick piety.
By a second Patent, bearing date 2. Nov. 13 Car. 2. the government of Leeds was alter'd to a Mayor, 12 Aldermen, and 24 Assistants. This place is now honour'd by giving the title of Duke to the right honourable Thomas Lord Marquis of Caermarthen, President of their Majesties Council.
[...].[s] From Leeds, Are passeth by Temple Newsome, of old a Commandary belonging to the Knights Templars, now the seat of the right honourable Arthur Ingram, Lord Viscount Irwing in the Kingdom of Scotland.
[...]rd.[t] Near the confluence of Are and Calder is Castleford, a history whereof, Thomas de Castleford (who was bred a Benedictine in Pontfract, and flourish'd An. 1326.) wrote, [...]'s [...]ies. from Ask a Saxon, first owner thereof, to the Lacies, from whom that large Lordship descended to the Earls of Lancaster.
[...].Not far from hence is Ledston-Hall, formerly the seat of the ancient family of the Withams, but late of Sir John Lewis Baronet, who having got a vast estate during his nine years factorship for the East-India-Company (much augmented by the Jewels presented him by the King of Persia, who much delighted in his company) dy'd here without issue-male, 14. Aug. 1671. He erected a curious Hospital (which cost 400 l. building) and endow'd it with 60 l. per an. for the yearly maintenance of 10 aged poor people, who by his Will are requir'd religiously to observe the Sabbath-day, and to be present at Church in time of Divine-Service and Sermon.
[u] The occasion upon which Polydore Virgil and our Author say Pontefract had its name, is by Dr. Johnston observ'd to be altogether inconsistent with the Records of the place, especially in point of time. At first it was call'd Kirkby: for in the Charter made by Robert de Lacy son of Hildebert to the Monks of St. John the Evangelist, they are stil'd De dominio suo de Kirkby; [...]st. [...]. vol 1. and this he says, he did by advice of T. Archbishop of York. Yet the same Robert by another Charter (to which are the same witnesses, except that T. Archbishop of York is added) confirms other Lands and Churches Deo & S. Johanni & Monachis meis de Pontefract. So that by this account, it is plain that in the time of T. Archbishop of York, it had both the names of Kirkby and Pontefract. Now this T. could be no other than the first Thomas, who came to the Archbishoprick about the eighth of the Conquerour, and continu'd in it till about the beginning of Henry 1. whom he crown'd, and soon after dy'd. For Robert, who granted these Charters, was banish'd in the 6. of Hen. 1. for being at the battel of Tenercebray on behalf of Robert Duke of Normandy against K. Henry, and dy'd the year after; which was before any other Archbishop succeeded in that See, to whose name the initial T. will agree. Thomas the second indeed came presently after (An. 1109.) but this S. William (to whom the miracle is attributed) was not possess'd of it before 1153. From which it is evident, that the town was call'd Pontefract at least 52 years before the miracle; and how much longer, we know not.
Below the Church and a water-mill (call'd Bongate-mill) there is a level ground nam'd the Wash, the road from Pontefract to Knottingley, and the directest way from Doncaster to Castleford. By this Wash the current of waters flowing from the springs above and supplying two mills, passes into the river at Knottingley. But it retains not that name above a large bow-shot, being terminated by a place called Bubwith-houses, where, by an Inquisition taken in the reign of Edw. 2. it appears that one John Bubwith held the eighteenth part of a Knights fee juxta veterem pontem de Pontefract, i.e. near the old bridge of Pontefract. Which must have been over this Wash; as will be made more probable, if we consider that even now upon any violent rains, or the melting of snow, it is so overflow'd as to be scarce passable; and that formerly, before the conveyance of the waters into chanels to serve the mills, and the dreins made from hence to Knottingley, the passage must have been much more difficult, and by consequence the rather requir'd a bridge. So then, the probability of a bridge over this Wash, the Record making the Pons de Pontefract to be near Bubwith-houses hard by, and there appearing no necessity of a bridge in any other part of the town; it follows, that the bridge which was broken must have been here. And the occasion of it being, no doubt, very considerable, it was natural enough for the Norman Lords (who knew what numbers of places took their name from Bridges in their own country) to lay hold upon this opportunity of changing the name; especially when that former one of Kirkby, upon the building of more Churches round it, grew less emphatical, and less distinguishing.
Whether the Castle was first built by Alric the Saxon, or by Hildebert, does not appear.Monast. Angl. vol. 2. In the history of the Lacies indeed, the latter is said to have caus'd a Chapel to be erected in the Castle of Pontfract, which he had built. But since it's being demolish'd of late years (among several others throughout England,) 'tis observ'd that the round-tower stood upon a rais'd hill of very hard stiff clay: which looks as if it had been of those sort of fortifications the Saxons call'd Keeps; and might from a fortification of earth be built of stone by the said Hildebert.
[w] Next is Shirburn, Shirburn. now chiefly famous for the benefaction of Robert Hungale Esquire, a most zealous Protestant, who by Will ordain'd the erection of an Hospital and School, with convenient Lodgings, &c. for 24 Orphans, who have each 5 l. per an. allow'd for their maintenance there from 7 to 15 years of age, and then a provision for binding them Apprentices, or sending them to the University; which, with 30 l. per an. to the Master (who is also to catechize them,) 20 marks for the Usher, and as much to a man and his wife for making suitable provisions of meat and apparel for the Orphans, and 40 marks per an. for 4 poor scholars in S. John's Coll. Cambridge, &c. amounts to 250 l. per an.
[x] Not far from hence is Haslewood, Haslewood. which has a pleasant prospect; the two Cathedrals of York and Lincoln, 60 miles asunder, may thence be discover'd. The Country within 10 miles, Dr. Tonstal Bishop of Durham affirm'd to King Hen. 8. (when he made his progress to York, An. 1548.) to be the richest valley that ever he found in all his travels through Europe, there being 165 manour-houses of Lords, Knights, and Gentlemen of the best quality, 275 several woods, (whereof some contain 500 acres) 32 parks, and 2 chases of deer; 120 rivers and brooks, whereof 5 are navigable, well-stor'd with Salmon and other fish, 76 water-mills for corn, 25 cole-mines, 3 forges for making of iron, and stone enough for the same; within [Page 731-732] those limits also as much sport and pleasure for hunting, hawking, fishing, and fowling, as in any place of England besides.
[y] The river Wherf is the next in this Riding; upon the banks of it stands Burnsall, Burnsall. where Sir William Craven not only built a School, but endow'd it. He built also a Church there, and encompass'd it with a wall that cost 600 l. He built in all four Bridges, one of which cost 500 l. another 250 l. and a Cause-way that cost 200 l. He gave 1000 l. to Christ's Hospital in London, and the Royalties of Creek, with the perpetual donation of the Parsonage to St. John's College in Oxford. William, his eldest Son, much affecting Military Discipline, was sent to the wars of Germany under Gustavus Adolphus, the famous King of Sweden, and after into the Netherlands under Henry Prince of Orange by King Charles 1. who also advanc'd him to the dignity of a Baron by the title of Lord Craven of Hamsted; and 16 Car. 2. he was dignify'd with the title of Viscount Craven of Uffington in Berkshire, and Earl of Craven in Yorkshire.
[z] The Wherf goes from hence to Bolton, Bolton. now honour'd by giving title of Duke to the Right Noble Charles Pawlet Marquiss of Winchester, and Duke of Bolton.
[aa] Next, to Ilkley, Ilkley. which Mr. Camden proves from an Altar to have been the Seat of the second Cohort of the Lingones; but it seems rather to have been that of the first Cohort, the last line of that Inscription being not II LINGON. but P. LINGON. in the original, as appears from Mr. John Thoresby's Papers late of Leeds, an eminent Antiquary, who accurately transcrib'd it, being very critical in his observations upon Inscriptions and original coins, of which he had a valuable Collection, besides his own having purchas'd those of the Reverend Mr. Stonehouse, and the Right Honourable Thomas Lord Fairfax. This Musaeum is very much improv'd, and still growing, by the curiosity and industry of Mr. Ralph Thoresby, an excellent Antiquary, who has a great variety of Manuscripts, with other Curiosities, and possibly the best Collection of Coyns (particularly Roman and Saxon) that is in the Kingdom.
The original Altar, mention'd by Mr. Camden is remov'd to Stubham; Stubham. the new one erected at Ilkley, has this Inscription added upon the Reverse: ‘GVILM: MIDLETON
ARM: ME: FECIT AD
IMAGINEM ANTI
QVISS: LAPIDIS HIC
REPERTI 1608.’
[bb] At some distance from hence is Bramhope, Bramhope. the Seat of the ancient family of the Dinelys; of which, Robert Dinely Esq (lately deceas'd in a good old age, having seen four generations of most of the neighbouring nobility and gentry) erected a Chapel with a competent endowment.
[cc] And upon the Wherf is Harewood-castle, Harewood-Castle. reduc'd to a skeleton in the late Civil-wars. In the Church are several curious Monuments for the owners of it, and the Gascoyns, of whom, the famous Judge Sir William Gascoyne, is the most memorable, for committing the Prince (afterwards King Henry 5.) prisoner to the King's Bench, till his Father's pleasure was known; who being inform'd of it, gave God thanks that at the same instant had given him a Judge who could administer, and a son who could obe [...] justice. He was made Judge A. D. 1401. and dy'd 17 Dec. 1412. as appears by their Pedigree curiously drawn by that accomplish'd Antiquary Mr. Richard Gascoyne; and is the rather mention'd, because most Histories are either deficient, or mistaken therein.
[dd] Thence Wherf passeth by Wighill, Wighill. the Seat of an ancient family of the Stapletons, of which, Sir Robert being Sheriff 23 Eliz. met the Judges with sevenscore men in suitable Liveries. For a person well-spoken, comely, and skill'd in the Languages, he had scarce an equal (except Sir Philip Sidney) and no superiour in England.
Not far from it is Helaugh-manour, Helaugh mano [...] which belongs to the honourable and ancient family of the Whartons, in the Church whereof is the Monument of Sir Thomas Wharton, Lord Warden of the West-marches, who gave so great a defeat to the Scots at Solemn-moss, A. 1542. Nov. 24. that their King, James the fifth, soon after dy'd for grief. With 300. men, he not only defeated their Army, but tookHerbe [...] Hen. 8. p. 484. above a thousand prisoners, for which good service he receiv'd several marks of honour. At Kirkby-Stephen he founded and endow'd a Free-school.
[ee] Lower down upon the river is Tadcaster, Tadca [...]ter where Dr. Owen Oglethorp (a native of Newton-Kime) Bishop of Carlisle, who crown'd Queen Elizabeth (the See of Canterbury being then void, and York refusing it,) founded a Free-school, and endow'd it with 40 l. per An. as also an Hospital for twelve poor people with good revenues. Here our Antiquary settles the Roman Calcaria, MS [...]s in the hands of Mr. To [...] by of Lee [...]. tho' Mr. Dodsworth places it at Newton-Kime in the Water-fields, near S. Helen's-ford: for many Roman coyns have been plow'd up there; particularly of Constantius, Helena, and Constantine; also an urn or box of Alabaster with only ashes in it: melted lead; Rings, one whereof had a Key of the same piece joyn'd with it. Dr. Johnston agrees with him; and Mr. Henry Fairfax, a very learned Antiquary, was of the same opinion; who, among many other coyns dug up here, was possest of one with this Inscription, DOMITIANVS CALCARAVCI, and on the Reverse, He is on horse-back subscrib'd COS. VI. which he imagin'd might be coyn'd here by Julius Agricola, about the year of Christ 85. when he was Propraetor in Britain. Add to this, that the Inhabitants call them Langborrow-pennies; which should seem to point out to us some large Town or Burrow.
And as the Coyns, so the Roman High way makes for this opinion. For it goes directly to Roadgate and crosses the river Wharfe at St. Helensford, undoubtedly so call'd from Helena mother of Constantine the Great. And the passage from that to York, is firmer ground by much than that from Tadcaster; which would hardly be passable, were it not for the Causey made over the Common between Tadcaster and Bilburgh. Now this Ford dividing the Roman Agger, may give one just reason to expect a Roman City or Station rather near this than any other place. Nor ought it to be objected, that there is at present no passage: for it had formerly a bridge of wood, the sills whereof yet remain; but when that was broken down, and the Wharf was not fordable, they found a way by Wetherby.
Nor is there any thing our Author has said in favour of Tadcaster, but what is equally, if not more applicable to Newton-Kyme. The distance holds more exactly; the hill call'd Kelc-bar is at Smawe, which is nearer Newton than Tadcaster. And as to Heina, who remov'd to Calca-cester; 'tis possible enough there might in those early times be a Religious House consecrated to the memory of the pious Helena, about St. Helen's-ford. At Calcaria liv'd also Adaman (who was afterward Abbot of Hue, or Huensis, and dy'd Oct. 23. An. 704.) of whose name there seem to be some remains, in that place at Newton-Kyme call'd Adaman-grove.
The present name (which carries in it something of modern) ought not to be any prejudice to it. For since it is back'd with such infallible proofs of Antiquity; this conclusion is very natural, that it was call'd New-town, when new buildings began to be erected upon the foundations of the old town.
[ff] Let us next betake our seves to the river Nid, upon which stands Ripley, Ripley. the birth-place of Sir George Ripley, famous for his study after the Philosopher's stone; whom I the rather mention, because by Dr. Holland, in an unwarrantable interpolation, he is falsly plac'd at Ripley in Surrey.
[gg] From hence the Nid carries us to Knaresbrough, Knaresbrough. the Castle whereof is now demolish'd; so that 'tis chiefly famous for four medicinal Springs nigh unto it; and possibly all England cannot produce a place that may truly boast of four so near in situation, and yet of a very different operation. 1. The Sweet-spaw [Page 733-734] or Vitrioline-well, discover'd by Mr. Slingsby about the year 1620. 2. The Stinking or Sulphur-well, said to cure the Dropsie, Spleen, Scurvy, Gout, &c. so that what formerly was call'd Dedecus Medicinae, may be call'd Decus Fontis Knaresburgensis, the late way of bathing being esteem'd very soveraign. 3. St. Mongahs (not Magnus, amangus, mungus or mugnus, as frequently miscall'd) or Kentigern's, a Scotish Saint, much honour'd in these parts; whom his Tutor Servanus Bishop of Orkney, lov'd beyond others, and us'd to call him Mongah Sp [...]s [...] [...]od's [...]ist of [...]he Church of [...]cotland, [...]., in the Norish tongue, a dear friend.
In the Church there (i.e. at Copgrave) is a memorable Epitaph for John Wincupp Rector thereof for 54 years, [...]pgrave. pious, charitable and peaceable, never su'd any, nor was su'd, liv'd 52 years with his wife, had six children, and a numerous family (boarding and teaching many of the Gentry) out of which not one dy'd in all that time; himself was the first 8 July, A. D. 1637. aetat. 86. In the first particular he was far out-done by his Country-man Mr. Moore, the good old Puritanical Minister, who was Rector of Guiseley 63 years.
Two miles Northward, Sir Edward Blacket has built a most noble Hall, with delicate Gardens adorn'd with statues.
The fourth Medicinal Spring is call'd the Dropping-well, Dr. Wit [...]e's Answ. [...] Dr. Ton [...]al, p. 54. the most famous of all the petrifying Wells in England; and the ground upon which it drops from the spungy porous rock above twelve yards long, is all become a solid Rock; from whence it runs into Nid, where the spring-water has made a rock, that stretches some yards into the river. Yet it must be confess'd to fall short of that stupendous Spring at Clarmont in Auverne, a Province in France, where the Lapidescent is so strong, that it turns all its substance into stone, and being put into a glass will turn presently into a stone of the same form. AndHyd [...]egr. pag. l. [...]. [...]14. [...]rtle, ibid. [...]52. Petrus Joannes Faber, a French Physician, reports, that they make bridges of it to pass into their gardens over the rivulet that comes from it: for by placing timber, and then pumping up the water upon it, they have a complete stone-bridge in 24 hours.
Nor must Robert's Chapel [...]r. Ro [...]ert's Chapel. be forgot, being a Cell hewn out of an entire Rock, part of which is form'd into an Altar which yet remains, and three heads, which (according to the devotion of that age) might be design'd for the Holy Trinity. The said Robert Founder of the Order of the Robertines, was the son of one Flower, who was twice Mayor of York; Legend [...]f the l [...]fe [...]d death [...] S. Rob [...]rt. where he was born, and forsaking his fair Lands, betook himself to a solitary life among the Rocks here, where he dy'd about the year 1216.
Upon the adjoyning Forest, was lately found a large stately Medal inscrib'd, JO. KENDAL. RHODI TVRCVPELLERIVS. Rev. TEMPORE OBSIDIONIS TVRCHORVM. MCCCCLXXX. ✚. Which is the more remarkable, because it expresseth the presence of our Country-man Kendall (with his image and arms) in that famous siege of Rhodes, when the great Mahomet was worsted. It is now in the hands of Mr. Ralph Thoresby of Leeds.
East from Knaresbrough stands Ribston-hall, [...]ston- [...]all. the pleasant Seat of the Right Honourable Sir Henry Goodrick Baronet, Ambassadour from King Charles the second to the King of Spain, now Privy-Councellor and Lieutenant of the Ordnance of the Tower of London.
[hh] Another river call'd Ure must be our next direction, carrying us to Rippon, [...]ppon. where in the Minster-yard is this modest Inscription for a two thousand pound Benefactor: Hic jacet Zacharias Jepson, cujus aetas fuit 49. perpaucos tantum annos vixit.
[ii] It brings us next to Burrowbridge, [...]rrw [...]dge. where the Pyramids, call'd by the common people the Devil's Arrows, are most remarkable. That they are artificial, we have the opinion of Mr. Camden; and the Devil's Coits in Oxofrdshire confirm it, which Dr. [...] of [...]f [...]th. [...]. Plot affirms to be made of a small kind of stones cemented together, whereof there are great numbers in the fields thereabout. But whether our Author's conjecture of their being set up as Trophies by the Romans may be allow'd, is not so certain. A [...]ct S [...]aff. [...]. later Antiquary seems inclin'd to conclude them to be a British work; supposing that they might be erected in memory of some battel fought there, but is rather of opinion that they were British Deities, agreeing with the Learned Dr. Stillingfleet, and grounding upon the custom of the Phoenicians and Greeks (Nations undoubtedly acquainted with Britain before the arrival of the Romans) who set up unpolish'd stones instead of images to the honour of their Gods.
[kk] Hard by this is Aldburrow, confirm'd to be the Is-urium Is urium. of the Ancients from several Roman Coyns and chequer'd Pavements digg'd up there, some of which are now in the Musaeum of the ingenious Mr. Thoresby.
But to be a little more particular upon the remains of Antiquity, they meet with; take the following account, which is the substance of a Letter from Mr. Morris, Minister of the place. Here are some fragments of Aquiducts cut in great stones, and cover'd with Roman tyle. In the late Civil wars, as they were digging a Cellar, they met with a sort of Vault, leading, as 'tis said, to the river: if of Roman work (for it has not yet met with any one curious enough to search it) it might probably be a Repository for the Dead. The Coyns (generally of brass, but some few of silver) are mostly of Constantine and Carausius; tho' there are two of Maximian, Dioclesian, Valerian, Severus, Pertinax, Aurelius, and of other Emperours; as also of Faustina and Julia. They meet with little Roman heads of brass; and have formerly also found coyn'd pieces of gold, with chains of the same metal; but none of late. About two years ago were found four signet polisht stones, three whereof were Cornelians. The first had a horse upon it, and a stamp of Laurel shooting out five branches: the second, a Roman sitting, with a sacrificing dish in one hand, and resting his other on a spear: the third a Roman (if not Pallas) with a spear in one hand, wearing a helmet, with a shield on the back, or on the other arm; and under that something like a quiver hanging to the knee: the fourth (of a purple colour) has a Roman head like Severus or Antonine. Several Pavements have been found about a foot under-ground, and compass'd about with stones of about an inch square; but within are little stones of a quarter that bigness, wrought into knots and flowers, after the Mosaick-fashion. No Altars are met with; but pieces of Urns and old Glass are common. In the Vestry-wall of the Church is plac'd a figure of Pan or Silvanus, in one rough stone nyched.
[ll] From hence the Ure or Ouse runs to York, York. in the Antiquities whereof our Author has been so particular, that we have little to add. This ancient and noble City might have had an agreeable light, if Sir Thomas Widdrington, a person accomplisht in all Arts, as well as his own profession of the Laws, after he had wrote an entire History of it, had not upon some disgust, prohibited the publication. The original Manuscript is now in the possession of Thomas Fairfax of Menston Esq.
Near the Castle stands the shell of Clifford's Tower, which was blown up the 24th of April, 1684.
In the year 1638. in a house near Bishop-hill, was found this Altar, which is now at the Duke of Buckingham's house in York: ‘I. O. M.
DIS. DEABVSQVE
HOSPITALIBVS PE
NATIBVSQ. OB. CON
SERVATAM SALVTEM
SVAM: SVORVMQ.
P. AEL. MARCIAN
VS. PRAEF. COH. ARAM. SAC. f. NCD.’
[mm] Dr. Tobias Matthews was Archbishop of this place,Inscript. of the Church of York. whose wife Frances, a prudent Matron, daughter of Bishop Barlow (a Confessor in Queen Mary's time) was a great Benefactress to the Church, bestowing upon it the Library of her husband, which consisted of above 3000 Books. She is memorable likewise for having a Bishop to her father, an Archbishop (Matthew Parker of Canterbury) to her father-in-law, [Page 735-736] four Bishops to her brethren, and an Archbishop to her husband.
[nn] The Cathedral Church, after it had been burnt down in K. Stephen's time, by little and little reviv'd. The Thoresby mention'd by our Author was a great benefactor to it; and the 29th of July 1631. laid the first stone of the new Quire, to which, at 16 payments, he gave so many hundred pounds, besides many other less sums for particular uses towards c [...]ing on that work. As he was Archbishop of [...] so also was he Lord Chancellour of England, and Cardinal,Spelm. G [...] in Cancellarius. (which I the rather take notice of here, because he is omitted by Onuphrius,) as the Inscription of his seal testifies. S. Johis & Sci P. ad vincula presbyteri Cardinalis.
The dimensions of this Cathedral were exactly taken by an ingenious Architect, and are as follows:
Feet. | |
Length beside the buttresses | 524 ½ |
breadth of the east-end | 105 |
breadth of the west-end | 109 |
breadth of the Cross from north to south | 222 |
breadth of the Chapter-house | 058 ½ |
he [...]ht of the Chapter-house to the Canopy | 086 ½ |
height of the body of the Minster | 099 |
height of the Lanthorn to the Vault | 188 |
height to the top-leads | 213 |
[oo] Southward from York is Nun-Apleton, Nun-Apleton. so call'd from a Nunnery founded there by the Ancestors of the Earls of Northumberland; afterwards the seat of Thomas Lord Fairfax, General of the Parliament-army, who merits a memorial here upon account of the peculiar respect he had for Antiquities. As an instance whereof, he allow'd a considerable pension to that industrious Antiquary Mr. Dodsworth, to collect those of this County, which else had irrecoverably perish'd in the late wars. For he had but just finish'd the transcript of the Charters and other Manuscripts then lying in St. Mary's tower in York, before the same was blown up, and all those sacred remains mix'd with common dust.Fasti [...] on. pa [...]. p. 765. And when that garrison was surrender'd to the Parliament, he took great care for the preservation of the publick Library, and bequeathed to it many MSS. with the Collections aforesaid, which of themselvesIbid. p. 69 [...]. amounted to 122 Volumes at least.
[pp] Our next place upon the river is Selby, part of which ancient and beautiful Church, with half of the steeple, fell down suddenly, about 6 a clock on Sunday morning, 30 March 1690.
From hence our Author carries us to Escricke, Escricke. which gave the title of Baron to Sir Thomas Knivet. He was Gentleman of the Privy-Chamber to King James 1. and the person intrusted to search the vaults under the Parliament-house, where he discover'd the 36 barrels of gun-powder and the person who was to have fir'd the train.
[qq] Afterwards the Ouse passeth by Drax, where the benefaction of Charles Read Esq (a native of the place, and Judge in Ireland) ought not to be omitted. He erected here a Hospital, as also a School-house, and endow'd them with 100 l. per an.
EAST-RIDING.
EAst-Riding, East-Riding. or the east part of Yorkshire [a], where the Parisi Parisi. are seated by Ptolemy, makes the second division of this County; lying east of York. The north and west sides of it are bounded by the winding course of the river Derwent; the south by the aestuary of Humber; and the north by the German Ocean. That part of it towards the sea and the river Derwent is pretty fruitful; but the middle is nothing but a heap of mountains, calleda Yorkeswold, which signifies Yorkshire hills. The river Derventio, or as we call it Derwent, rises near the shore and runs towards the west, but then turns again towards the south, and passes by Aiton and Malton; which because they belong to the North-Riding of this County, I shall reserve for their proper places. As soon as the river has enter'd this quarter, it runs near the remains of that old castle Montferrant, Montferrant. Historia Meauxensis which belonged formerly to the Fossards, men of great honour and estates. But William Fossard of this family being in ward to the King, and committed to the guardianship of William le Grosse Earl of Albemarle, enraged the Earl so by debauching his sister (tho' he was then but very young) that in revenge he demolished this castle, and forced the noble young Gentleman to forsake his country. Yet after the death of the Earl he recovered his estate; and left an only daughter, who was married to R. de Tornham, by whom she had a daughter, afterwards married to Peter de Malo-lacu; whose posterity being enriched with this estate of the Fossards, became very famous Barons [b]. Not far from hence stands a place seated upon a bank of the river, called Kirkham, i.e. the place of the Church; for here stood a College of Canons, founded by Walter Espec, a very great man, whose daughter brought a vast estate by marriage to the family of the Rosses. Next, but somewhat lower upon the Derwent, there stood a city of the same name, which Antoninus calls Derventio, Derventio. and tells us it was seven miles distant from York. The Notitia makes mention of a Captain overNo [...]. Der [...] en [...]. the Company, Derventienses, under the General of Britain, that lived here: and in the time of the Saxons it seems to have been the Royal Village, situated near the river Doreventio (says Bede) where Eumer, that Assassin (as the same Author has it) pushed with his sword at Edwin King of Northumberland, and had run him through, if one of his retinue had not interpos'd, and sav'd his master's life with the loss of his own. Where this place is, I could never have discover'd, without the light I have received from that polite and accurate scholar Robert Marshall. He shewed me, that at the distance from York I mention'd, there is a little town seated upon the Derwent called Auldby, which signifies in Saxon, the old habitation; where some remains of antiquity are still extant: and upon the top of the hill towards the river, is to be seen the rubbish of an old castle: so that this cannot but be the Derventio. From hence the river flows through Stanford-bridge, which from a battel fought there is also called Battle-bridge Ba [...]-bridge. [c]. For here Harald Haardread the Norwegian (who with a fleet of 200 sail had infested this Kingdom, and from his landing at Richal had marched thus far with great outrage and devastation) was encountred by King Harold of England: who in a fair battel here, slew him and a great part of his army, and took so much gold among the spoil, that twelve young men could hardly bear it upon their shoulders, as we are told by Adam Bremensis. This engagement was fought about nine days before the coming in of William the Conquerour; at which time the dissolute luxury of the English seems to have foretold the destruction of this Kingdom.b But of this we have spoke already.
The Derwent (which as often as 'tis encreas'd with rains, is apt to overflow the banks, and lay all the neighbouring meadows a-float) passing from hence to Wreshil, Wresh [...]l. a Castle neatly built and fortified by1 Thomas Percy Earl of Worcester; runs at last more swiftly under Babthorpe, Babth. which has given both a seat [Page]
[Page] [Page] and name to a famous family of Knights there; and from thence into the Ouse. A father and son, both of this family, (I must not forget to be serviceable to their memories, who have been serviceable to their King and Country) were slain in the battel of S. Albans, fighting for Henry 6. and lye buried there with this Epitaph.
Now the Derwent, with a larger stream, glides on near Howden, [...]wden. a market town, remarkable not for it's neatness or resort, but for giving name to the neighbouring territory, which from it is called Howdenshire; and not long since, for having a pretty Collegiate Church of five Prebendaries, to which a house of the Bishops of Durham is adjoyned, who have a vast estate hereabouts. Walter Skirlaw, one of them, who flourish'd about the year 1390. (as we find in the book of Durham) built a huge tall steeple to this Church, that in case of a sudden inundation, the inhabitants might save themselves in it. Not far distant from hence is Metham, [...]m. which gives a name and seat to the famous and ancient family of the Methams [d].
The Ouse grown more spacious, runs with a swift and violent stream into the Aestuary Abus, [...]tuary of [...]s. the name by which it is expressed in Ptolemy [e]; but the Saxons, [...]. and we at this day, call it Humber 2, and from it all that part of the country on the other side was in general termed Nordan humbria. Both names seem to be derivatives from the British Aber, which signifies the mouth of a river, and was perhaps given to this by way of excellence, because the Urus or Ouse, with all those streams that fall into it, and many other very considerable rivers, discharge themselves here. And it is, without question, the most spacious Aestuary, and the best stor'd with fish, of any in the Kingdom. At every tide, it flows as the sea does, and at ebb returns it's own waters with those borrowed from the Ocean, with a vast hurry and murmur, and not without great danger to those that then sail in it. Hence Necham:
The same Author, still following the British history, as if the Humber deriv'd this name from a King of the Hunns, continues:
Another Poet says of the same river:
However, in Necham's time, there was no city seated upon this Aestuary; tho' before, and in after-ages, there flourished one or two in those places. In the Roman times, not far from its bank upon the little river Foulnesse, where Wighton, [...]ghton. a small town, well frequented with husbandmen, now stands; there seems to have stood Delgovitia; [...]govi [...]ia. as is probable both from the likeness and the signification of the name, without drawing any other proofs from its distance from Derventio. For the word Delgwe in British, signifies the Statues or Images of the heathen Gods; and in a little village not far off, there stood an Idol-Temple,Bede. in very great glory even in the Saxon times, which from the heathen Gods in it was then called God-mundingham, and now in the same sense, Godmanham. Godman [...]am. Nor do I question, but here was some famous Oracle or other even in the British times; an age wherein weakness and ignorance exposed the whole world to these superstitions.A Temple of the Gods. But after Paulinus had preach'd Christ to the Northumbrians, Coyfi, who had been a priest of these heathen Ceremonies, and was now converted to Christianity, first profaned this Temple, the house of impiety (as Bede tells us)Inj [...]ta lanc [...]a. by throwing a spear into it; nay destroyed and burnt it with all its Sep [...]. hedges [f]. Somewhat more eastward, the river Hull runs into the Humber: the rise of it is near a village call'd Driffeild, Driffeild. remarkable for the monument of Alfred, the most learned King of the Northumbrians; and likewise for the many Barrows rais'd hereabouts. The same river posts on, running not far from Leckenfeld, Leckenfeld. a house of the Percies Earls of Northumberland; near which, at a place called Schorburg, is the habitation of a truly famous and ancient family, the Hothams; and at Garthum, not far from thence, the rubbish of an old castle, which belonged to P. de Malo-lacu or Mauley. The river-Hull begins now to approach near Beverley, Beverley. in Saxon Beuer-lega, (which Bede seems to call Monasterium in Deirwaud, that is, the Monastery in the wood of the Deiri,) a town large and very populous. From it's name and situation, one would imagine it to be the Petuaria Parisiorum; Petuaria. tho' it pretends to nothing of greater antiquity, than that John sirnamed de Beverley, Archbishop of York, a man (as Bede represents him) that was both devout and learned, out of a pious aversion to this world, renounced his Bishoprick, and retired hither; where, about the year 721, he died.Life of Jo. de Beverley The memory of him has been so sacred among our Kings (particularly Athelstan, who honoured him as his Guardian-Saint after he had defeated the Danes,) that they have endowed this place with many considerable immunities3. They granted it the privilege of a Sanctuary, that it should be an inviolable protection to all Bankrupts, and those suspected of Capital crimes.Asylum. Within it stood a Chair made of stone, with this Inscription: ‘HAEC SEDES LAPIDEA Freedstooll
DICITVR, i. PACIS CATHEDRA, AD
QVAM REVS FVGIENDO PERVENIENS
OMNIMODAM HABET
SECVRITATEM.’
That is, ‘This Stone-seat is call'd Freedstooll, i.e. the Chair of Peace, to which what Criminal soever flies, shall have full protection.’
By this means the Town grew up to a considerable bulk; strangers throng'd thither daily, and the Towns-men drew a chanel from the river Hull The river Hull. for the conveyance of foreign commodities by boats and barges. The Magistrates of the Town were first, twelve Wardens, which were after that chang'd to Governours and Wardens. But at this day, by the favour of Queen Elizabeth, the Town has a Mayor and Governours [g]. More to the Eastward, flourish'd Meaux-Abbey, Regist. Monast. de Meaux. so denominated from one Gamell born at Meaux in France, who obtain'd it of William the Conquerour to live in. Here William le Gross, Earl of Albemarle, founded a Monastery for the Monks of the Cluniack Order, to atone for a vow he had made, whereby he was oblig'd to go to Jerusalem. Somewhat lower, stands Cottingham, Cottingham. a long Country-town, where are the ruins of an old Castle built (by King John's permission) by Robert Estotevill, Estotevil. descended from Robert Grundebeofe a Norman Baron, and a man [Page 739-740] of great note in those times; whose estate came by marriage to the Lords de Wake, and afterwards by a daughter of John de Wake to Edmund Earl of Kent, from whom descended Joan, wife to Edward that most warlike Prince of Wales, who defeated the French in so many Engagements. The river Hull about six miles from hence falls into the Humber. Just at its mouth, stands a Town call'd from it Kingston upon Hull, Kingston upon Hull but commonly Hull. The Town is of no great antiquity; for King Edward the first, whose royal virtues deservedly rank him among the greatest and best of Kings,Plac. an. 44 Ed 3 Ebor. 24. having observ'd the advantagious situation of the place (which was first call'd Wik) had it in exchange from the Abbot de Meaux; and instead of the Vaccarii and Bercarii (that is, as I apprehend it, Cribs for Cows and Sheep-folds) which he found there, he built the Town call'd Kingston, signifying the King's Town; and there (as the words of the Record are) he made a harbour and a free burgh, making the inhabitants of it free burgesses, and granting them many liberties. By degrees it has grown to that dignity, that for statley building, strong forts, rich fleets, resort of merchants, and plenty of all things, 'tis without dispute the most celebrated Town in these parts. All this increase is owing, partly to Michael de la Pole, who upon his advancement to the Earldom of Suffolk by King Richard the second, procur'd them their privileges, and partly to their trade of Iseland-fish d [...]y'd and harden'd, term'd by them Stock-fish; Stockfish. which turns to great gain, and has strangely enrich'd the Town. Immediately upon this rise, they fortify'd the place with a brick wall and many towers, on that side where they are not defended by the river; and brought in such a quantity of stones for ballast,Coblestones as was sufficient to pave all parts of the Town. As I have been inform'd by the Citizens, they were first govern'd by a Warden, then by Bailiffs, after that by a Mayor and Bailiffs; and at last they obtain'd from Henry the sixth, that they should be govern'd by a Mayor and Sheriff, and that the City should be a County incorporate of it self, as the Lawyers term it. Concerning the first Mayor of this City, it may not be tedious to relate this passage from the Register of the Abbey de Melsa or de Meaux, tho' the stile be barbarous. William de la Pole, De la Pole. Kt. was first a Merchant at Ravens-rod, skilful in the arts of trade, and inferiour to no English Merchant whatsoever. He afterwards living at Kingston upon Hull, was the first Mayor of that Town, and founded the Monastery of St. Michael, which now belongs to the Carthusian Monks, near the said Kingston. His eldest son 4 Michael de la Pole, Earl of Suffolk, caused the said Monastery to be inhabited by that Order. William de la Pole aforesaid lent King Edward many thousand pounds of gold, during his abode at Antwerp in Brabant. For this reason the King made him chief Baron of his Exchequer, gave him by Deed the Seigniory of Holderness, with many other Lands then belonging to the Crown, and made him a Baneret. If any one questions the truth of this,C 5 E R 3. m 28. the Records of the Tower will, I hope, fully satisfie him; there it is expresly, William de la Pole dilectus, valectus, & mercator noster. Now Valectus Valectus or Valettus. J. Tilius. (that I may observe it once for all) was then an honourable title both in France and England; but afterwards coming to be meanly apply'd to servants, so that the Nobility disliked it, the title was changed, and he was call d Gentleman of the Bed chamber [h].
From Hull, a large promontory shoots out into the Sea, call'd by Ptolemy Ocellum, Ocellum. by us at this day Holderness. Holderness. A certain Monk has call'd it Cava Deira, that is to say, the hollow Country of the Deiri, in the same sence that Coelosyria is so call'd, signifying hollow Syria [i]. The first place a man comes at on this winding shore is Headon, Headon. which formerly (if we'll believe Fame that always magnifies Truth) was a very considerable place by reason of merchants and shipping [k] For my part I have faith enough to believe it, notwithstanding 'tis now so diminish'd, partly by reason of its being too near Hull, and partly because the Haven is block'd up and useless; that it has not the least shew of that grandeur it pretends to have had. Which may teach us, that the condition of Towns and Cities is every jot as unstable as the state and happiness of men. King John granted to Baldwin Earl of Albemarle and Holderness, and to his wife Hawis, free Burgage here, so that the Burgesses might hold in free burgage by the same customs with York and N [...] Lincoln. Nichol. At present the Town begins to flourish again, and has some hopes of attaining to its former greatness. Somewhat farther in the same Promontory, there stands an ancient Town call'd Praetorium Prae [...] by Antoninus; but we now name it Patrington, Pat [...]g [...] as the Italians do Petrovina from the Town Praetorium. That I am not mistaken here, the distance from Delgovitia, and the name still remaining, do both shew; which also does in some sort imply, that this is the Petuaria which goes corruptly in Copies of Ptolemy for Praetorium. But whether it took the name from the Praetorium, which was their Court of Justice, or from some large and stately edifice (for such also the Romans call'd Praetoria) does not appear [l]. The Inhabitants do still boast of their antiquity, and the former excellence of their Haven; nor do they less glory in the pleasantness of the place, having a very fine prospect, on this side as it looks toward the Ocean, and on that, as it surveys the Humber and the shores about it, together with the green skirts of Lincolnshire. The Roman way from the Picts wall, which Antoninus the Emperour first trac'd out, ends here. So Ulpian tells us, that High-ways of that nature end at the Sea, at a River, or at a City. Somewhat lower stands Winsted, W [...]n [...]d. the Seat of the Hildeards, Knights: and a little higher Rosse is seated, which gives name, as it did heretofore a seat, to that famous race of Barons de Rosse: Baron [...] Rosse. and upon the sea, Grimston-garth, where the Grimstons long flourish'd. From hence at no great distance stands Rise, formerly the House of those Noblemen, call'd de Faulconberge. In the very tongue of this Promontory, where it draws most towards a point, and takes the name of Spurnhead, Rat [...] and R [...] burg. stands the little village Kellnsey, which shews plainly that this is the Ocellum in Ptolemy: for as Kellnsey Ke [...]ey comes from Ocellum, so without doubt this Ocellum is deriv'd from Y-kill, which signifies in British a Promontory, or a narrow slip of ground, as I have already said [m].
From Ocellum the shore gradually withdraws, and with a small bending runs northward by Overthorne and Witherensey, little Churches, call'd from the sisters that built them Sisters-kirks; Sisters-kirks. and not much wide of Constable-Burton, Con [...] so nam'd from the Lords of it, who by marriages are ally'd to very honourable families, and flourish in great splendour at this day. Robert of this House (as we find it in Meaux-Abbey-book) was one of the Knights of the Earl of Albemarle, who being old and full of days, took upon him the Cross, and went with King Richard to the Holy Land. Then by Skipsey, which Drugo the first Lord of Holderness fortify'd with a Castle. Here the shore begins to shoot again into the Sea, and makes that Bay, call'd in Ptolemy [...] Gabrantovicorum, which some Latin Translators render Portuosus sinus, others Salutaris. Sinus S [...] taris. Neither of them express the sence of the Greek word better than that little town in the turn of it, call'd Suerby. Sue [...]y. For that which is safe and free from danger, is by the Britains and Gauls call'd Seur; as we also do in English, who probably derive it from the Britains. There's no reason therefore why we should question, but this was the veryc [...] Gabrantovicorum, G [...]b [...] v [...]. a people that liv'd in this neighbourhood [n] Near this is Bridlington, a town famous for John de Bridlington a Monkish Poet,d whose rhyming prophecies, which are altogether ridiculous, I have seen [o]. Not far from hence, for a great way towards Drifield, there was a ditch (drawn by the Earls of Holderness to divide the Lands) which was call'd Earls-dike. But why this small People were call'd Gabrantovici, I dare not so much as guess, unless perhaps it was deriv'd from [Page] Goats which the Britains call'd Gaffran, whereof there are not greater numbers in any part of Britain than in this place. Nor is this derivation to be lookt upon as absurd, seeing the Aegira in Achaia has its name from Goats; Nebrodes in Sicily, from Deer; and Boeotia in Greece, from Oxen. The little Promontory that by its bending makes this Bay, is commonly call'd Flamborough-head, [...]. but by Saxon Authors Fleam-burg, who write that Ida the Saxon (who first subdu'd these parts) arriv'd here. Some think it took its name from a Watch-tower to set out Lights, whereby Mariners might discern that Harbour. For the Britains still retain the provincial word Flam, and the Mariners paint this Creek with a flaming-head, in their Sea-Charts. Others are of opinion that this name came into England out of Angloen in Denmark, the ancient Seat of the Angli; for there is a town call'd Flemsburg, from which they think the English gave it that name; as the Gauls (according to Livy) nam'd Mediolanum in Italy from the town Mediolanum they had left in Gaul. For the little village in this Promontory is call'd Flamborough, [...]bo [...]gh. which gives original to another noble family of Constables, as they call them, which by some are deriv'd from the Lacies [...]ables [...]ambo [...]gh. Constables of Chester [p]. Upon my enquiries in these parts, I heard nothing of those Rivers (call'd Vipseis [...]eis.) which Walter de Heminburgh tells us, flow every other year from unknown Springs, and with a great and rapid current run by this little Promontory to the Sea. However, take what William of Newborough (who was born there) has said of them: These famous waters commonly call'd Vipseis, spring from the earth at several sources, not incessantly, but every other year, and having made a pretty large current, through the lower grounds, run into the Sea; and when they are dry'd, 'tis a good sign. For the flowing of them, is truly said to forbode the misery of an approaching famine [q]. As the Sea winds it self back from hence, a thin slip of land (like a small tongue when 'tis thrust out) shoots into the Sea, such as the old English call'd File; from which the little village Filey takes its name. More inward stands Flixton, where a Hospital was built in the time of Athelstan for defending Travellers (as it is word for word in theRegiis Archivit. Publick Records) from Wolves, that they should not be devoured by them. This shews us, that in those times WolvesWolves. infested this tract, which now are to be met with in no part of England, not so much as in the frontiers of Scotland; altho' they are very numerous in that Kingdom.
This small territory of Holderness was given by William the first to Drugo de Bruerer a Fleming,Earls of Albemarle and Holderness. Genealogiae Antiquae. upon whom also he had bestow'd his niece in marriage; but she being poison'd by him, and he forc'd to fly for his life, was succeeded by Stephen the son of Odo, Lord of Albemarle in Normandy, descended from the family of the Earls of Champaigne, whom William the first (who was his nephew by a half sister on the mother's side) is said to have made Earl of Albemarle; and his posterity retain'd that title in England, notwithstanding Albemarle be a place in Normandy. He was succeeded by his son William, sirnam'dLe Gross. Crassus. His only daughter Avis was married to three husbands successively; to William Magnavill Earl of Essex, to Baldwin de Beton, and to William Forts, or de Fortibus. By this last husband only she had issue, William, who left also a son William to succeed him. His only daughter Avelin, being married to EdmundGibbosus. Crouchback Earl of Lancaster, dy'd without children. And so (as it is said in Meaux-Abbey-book) for want of heirs, the Earldom of Albemarle and the Honour of Holderness were seized into the King's hands. Yet in following ages, King Richard the second created Thomas de Woodstock his Uncle, and afterwards Edward Plantagenet, son to the Duke of York, Duke of Albemarle, in the lifetime of his father. Henry the fourth also made his son Thomas, Duke of Clarence and Earl of Albemarle; which title King Henry the sixth added afterwards as a farther honour to Richard Beauchamp Earl of Warwick.
ADDITIONS to the East-riding of YORKSHIRE.
[a] NOW we come to the second Division, the East-Riding. Which Division by Ridings (to observe it by the way) is nothing but a corruption from the Saxon ÐriHing, [...]g. which consisted of several Hundreds or Wapentakes. Nor was it peculiar to this County, but formerly common to most of the neighbouring ones; as appears by thep. 33. 34 Laws of Edward the Confessor, and the [...]g. 74, [...]c. Life of King Alfred.
[b] The first place we meet with is Mont-ferrant-Castle, which [...]erar. Leland tells us in his time was clearly defaced, so that bushes grew where it had formerly stood. Of the family de Malo Lacu (or as Leland calls them Mawley) there were eight successively enjoy'd the estate, all Peters: but the last of these leaving only two daughters, the one was married to Bigot, and the other to Salwayne.
[c] However the name of Battle-bridge [...]e- [...]ge. may be us'd for Stanford-bridge in Authors, a Traveller will hardly meet with it among the Inhabitants of this Country. Our Author seems to have taken it from an Instrument concerning the Translation of St. Oswin (since printed in the [...]m. 1. [...]4. Monasticon Anglicanum) which speaking of this place, adds, Nunc verò Pons belli dicitur, i.e. at present 'tis call'd Pons Belli, or Battle-bridge.
[d] Upon the Derwent lyes Howden [...]den. (formerly Hovedene, as is plain from several Records in the time of Edward 2. and Edward 3. as also from [...]n MS. Leland's calling the first Canon of the place John Hovedene) where the bowels of Walter Skirlaw Bishop of Durham were bury'd,Ibid. as appear'd by the Inscription of a very fair stone varii marmoris, as my Author calls it. The same person had reason to build a high belfrey in order to secure them against inundations; for the several Commissions that have been issu'd out for repair of the banks thereabouts, argue the great danger they were in: and within these seven years, the Ebbe, by reason of great freshes coming down the Ouse, broke through the banks, and did considerable damage both to Howden and the neighbouring parts. Here the Londoners keep a Mart every year, beginning about the fourteenth of September, and continue it about nine days; where they furnish by whole-sale the Country Trades-men with all sorts of Goods.
[e] Tho' the Abus Abus. and the Humber be generally lookt upon as one and the same, yet Ptolemy's [...] seems to be the corrupt Greek reading of the old name Ouse, rather than sprung from the British Aber. 'Tis plain however by that expression, [...], i.e. the emptying of the river Abus, that he meant, the river had that name before ever it came to the Out-let.
[f] What our Author says of Coyfi throwing down the Fanum, Impietatis domicilium, Saxon-Idols. does hardly seem to be cautiously or accurately enough exprest. For it does not appear that any cover'd Temples were erected for the service of those Pagan-Idols which the Saxons here worship'd. Polluit & destruxit eas, quas ipse sacraverat, aedes, says the LatinLib. 2. c. 13 Bede, speaking of this Coyfi; and the Saxon-Paraphrase uses the word [Page 743-744] ƿigbed, or (as some Copies have it) ƿeopede ƿæs Hæƿenan gyldes, implying not a Temple, but an Altar, as is evident from Matth. v. 23. and xxiii. 18, 19, &c. No, they were only surrounded with a hedge to defend their ditches from the annoyance of cattel; as is sufficiently intimated by another expression in the same Chapter, Mid Heora Hegum ƿe Hi ymbsette ƿæron, i.e. with the hedges wherewith they were surrounded.
[g] But for Antiquities, Beverley Beverley. is the most considerable place hereabouts, call'd formerly Beverlac, quasi locus vel lacus Castrorum, à Castoribus quibus Hulla aqua vicina abundabat, says LelandVid. Monast. Angl. t. 1. p. 170. from an old Anonymous Manuscript concerning the Antiquities of Beverolac or Beverley. Tho' our Author tells us it has nothing of greater Antiquity than John of Beverley, yet the same Manuscript informs us, it had a Church before that time, dedicated to S. John the Evangelist; which this Archbishop converted into a Chapel for his new-erected Monastery.
On the 13. of September, An. 1664. upon opening a grave they met with a vault of squar'd free-stone, 15 foot long, and 2 foot broad at the head, but at the feet a foot and a half broad. Within it, was a sheet of lead four foot long, and in that the ashes, six beads (whereof three crumbl'd to dust with a touch; of the three remaining, two were suppos'd to be Cornelians,) with three great brass pins, and four large iron nails. Upon the sheet laid a leaden plate with this Inscription: ‘✚ ANNO AB INCARNATIONE DOMINI MCLXXXVIII. COMBVSTA FVIT HAEC ECCLESIA IN MENSE SEPTEMBRI, IN SEQVENTI NOCTE POST FESTVM SANCTI MATHAEI APOSTOLI: ET IN AN. MCXCVII. VI. IDVS MARTII FACTA FVIT INQVISITIO RELIQVIARVM BEATI JOHANNIS IN HOC LOCO, ET INVENTA SVNT HAEC OSSA IN ORIENTALI PARTE SEPVLCHRI ET HIC RECONDITA, ET PVLVIS CEMENTO MIXTVS IBIDEM INVENTUS EST ET RECONDITUS.’
Cross over this, there lay a box of lead, about seven in [...]hes long, six broad, and five high; wherein were several pieces of bones mix'd with a little dust, and yielding a sweet smell. All these things were carefully re-interr'd in the middle Alley of the body of the Minster, where they were taken up. Which circumstance does not by any means agree with what Bishop Godwin has left us about this Saint; namely, that he was bury'd in the Church porch. For tho' what is mention'd in the Inscription was only a Re-interrment upon the Inquisition made, yet it looks a little odd they should not lay the Reliques in the same place where they found them: unless one should solve it this way, that but part of the Church was then standing, and they might lay him there with a design to remove him when it should be rebuilt, but afterwards either neglected or forgot it.
The Minster here is a very fair and neat structure; the roof is an arch of stone. In it there are several monuments of the Percies Earls of Northumberland, who have added a little Chapel to the Quire; in the window whereof are the pictures of several of that family drawn in the glass. At the upper-end of the Quire, on the right-side of the Altar-place, stands the Freed-stool (mention'd by our Author) made of one entire stone, and said to have been remov'd from Dunbar in Scotland; with a Well of water behind it. At the upper end of the body of the Church, next the Quire, hangs an ancient Table with the pictures of St. John (from whom the Church is nam'd) and of K. Athelstan the founder of it: and between them this Distich;
Hence the Inhabitants of Beverley pay no Toll or Custom in any port or town of England; to which immunity (I suppose) they owe in a great measure their riches and flourishing condition. For inde [...]d, one is surpris'd to find so large and handsome a town within six miles of Hull. In the body of the Church stands an ancient monument, which they call the Virgins tomb, because two Virgin-sisters lye buried there; who gave the town a piece of land into which any free-man may put three milch-kine from Lady-day to Michaelmas. At the lower end of the body of the Church stands a fair large Font of Agate-stone.
Near the Minster, on the south-side of it, is a place nam'd Hall-garth, wherein they keep a Court of Record call'd Provost's Court. In this, may be try'd Causes for any sum, arising within its Liberties which are very large (having about a hundred towns and parts of towns in Holderness and other places of the East-Riding belonging to it.) It is said to have also a power in Criminal matters; tho' at present that is not us'd.
But to come to the condition of the town. It is above a mile in length, being of late much improv'd in its buildings; and has pleasant springs running quite through it. It is more especially beautified with two stately Churches; and has a Free-school, that is improv'd by two Fellowships, six Scholarships, and three Exhibitions in S. John's College in Cambridge, belonging to it; besides six Alms-houses, the largest whereof was built lately by the Executors of Michael Wharton Esquire; who by his last Will l [...]ft 1000 l. for that use. The Mayor and Aldermen (having sometimes been deceiv'd in their choice) admit none into their Alms-houses, but such as will give Bond to leave their effects to the poor when they dye: a good example to other places.
The principal trade of the town, is, making Malt, Oat-meal, and Tann'd-leather; but the poor people mostly support themselves by working of Bone-lace, which of late has met with particular encouragement, the children being maintain'd at school, to learn to read, and to work this sort of lace. The Cloath-trade was formerly follow'd in this town; but [...]in. MS Leland tells us, that even in his time it was very much decay'd.
They have several Fairs; but one more especially remarkable, beginning about nine days before Ascension-day, and kept in a street leading to the Minster-garth call'd Londoner-street. For then the Londoners bring down their Wares, and furnish the Country-Tradesmen by whole-sale.
About a mile from Beverley to the east, in a pasture belonging to the town, is a kind of Spaw; tho' they say it cannot be judg'd by the taste whether or no it comes from any Mineral. Yet taken inwardly, it is a great dryer; and wash d in, dries sco [...]butick scurf, and all sorts of scabs; and also, very much helps the King's Evil.
[h] At the mouth of the river Hull is Kingston, King [...] upon H [...] call'd in all writings of Concernment Kingston super Hull. The walls and town-ditch were made by leave from King Edward 2. but Richard 2. gave them the present haven, which now it's fear'd will shortly be warp'd up at the mouth, if speedy care be not taken about it. 'Tis a town very considerable for merchandise (being the scale of trade to York, Leeds, Nottingham, Gainsborough, and several other places,) as also for importing goods from beyond sea. And for the better convenience of managing their trade, they have an Exchange for Merchants, built in 1621. and much beautify'd in 1673. Above that, is the Custom-house; and near these the Wool-house, made use of formerly, without all doubt, for the selling and weighing of wool, as well as lead; but now only for the latter, when 'tis to be sold or ship'd here. On the east-side of the river, is built a strong Citadel, begun in the year 1681. and including the Castle and south-blockhouse. It hath convenient apartments for lodging a good many souldiers, with distinct houses for the Officers; has also an engine for making salt-water fresh, and is well-furnish'd with Ordnance. But yet the strength of the town does not consist so much in it's walls or fortifications, as it's situation: for all the Country being a perfect level, by cutting the sea-banks they can let in the [...]ood, and lay it for five miles round under water. Which the Governour [Page 745-746] of the place, at the late Revolution, had designed to do, if the then Prince of Orange had landed there, as was once thought. For he had caus'd several Flood-gates to be made, and pitch'd upon certain places about the town and on the bank of Humber, for cutting.
The town hath two Churches, one call'd the High-Church, a very spacious and beautiful building; on the south-side of the Quire whereof is a place now alter'd into a neat Library, consisting mostly of modern books. The other is the Low-Church, the steeple whereof Henry 8. is said to have order'd to be pull'd down to the ground, because it spoil'd the prospect of his house over against it, wherein he had his residence for some months, An. 1538. Near the High Church is the Free-school, first founded by John A [...]ck Bishop of Worcester, and then of Ely; and in the year 1583. built by Mr. William Gee; with the Merchants Hall over it. North-west of the said Church, is the Trinity-house, begun at first by a joint contribution of well-disposed persons, for the relief of distressed Sea-men and their wives. But afterward they got a Patent from the Crown with several privileges; by the advantage of which they maintain m [...]ny distressed Sea-men, with their widows, both a [...] Hull, and other places members of the Port of Hull. The Government is by twelve elder brethren, with six Assistants: out of the twelve, by the major vote of them and of the 6 Assistants, and the younger brethren, are annually chose two Wardens; and two Stewards out of the younger brethren. These Governours have a power to determine matters in sea-affairs not contrary to Law, chiefly between Masters and Sea-men; and also in Tryals at law, in sea-affairs, their judgments are much regarded. But here take the accurate description of this place, as I had it from the curious and ingenious Mr. Ray, who actually view'd it. ‘The Trinity-house belongs to a Society of Merchants, and is endow'd with good revenues. There are maintained 30 poor Women called Sisters, each of whom hath a little chamber or cell to live in. The building consists of a chapel, two rows of chambers beneath stairs for the sisters, and two rooms above stairs; one, in which the brethren of the Society have their meetings; and another large one, wherein they make sails, with which the town drives a good trade. In the midst of this room hangs the effigies of a native of Groenland, with a loose skin-coat upon him, sitting in a small boat or Canoe cover'd with skins; and having his lower part under deck. For the boat is deck'd or cover'd above with the same whereof it is made, having only a round hole fitted to his body, through which he puts down his legs and lower parts into the boat. He had in his right-hand (as I then thought) a pair of wooden oars, whereby he rowed and managed his boat; and in his left, a dart, with which he strikes fishes. But it appearing by the Supplement to the North-East Voyages lately publish'd, that they have but one oar about six foot long, with a paddle six inches broad at either end, I am inclin'd to think, that the boat hanging so high, I might be mistaken. The same book has given us an account of their make; to which I refer you. This on his forehead had a bonnet like a trencher to fence his eyes from sun or water. Behind him lay a bladder or bag of skins, in which I supposed he bestowed the fish he caught. Some told us it was a bladder full of oyl, wherewith he allured the fish to him. This is the same individual Canoe that was taken in the year 1613. by Andrew Barkar, with all its furniture and boat man. The Groenlander that was taken refused to eat, and died within three days after. I have since seen several of these boats in publick Town-houses and Cabinets of the Virtuosi. Here I cannot but reflect upon and admire the hardiness and audaciousness of these petty water-men, who dare venture out to sea single in such pitiful vessels as are not sufficient to support much more than the weight of one man in the water, and which if they happen to be over-turned, the rower must needs be lost. And a wonder it is to me, that they should keep themselves upright if the sea be never so little rough. 'Tis true, the dashing of the waves cannot do them much harm, because the Canoe is cover'd above, and the skin-coat they have upon them keeps off the water from getting in at the round hole, receiving and encompassing their body.’
A little above the bridge (which consists of 14 arches, and goes over into Holderness) stands the Groenland-house, built in the year 1674. at the joint charge of several Merchants; but by reason of the bad success of that trade, 'tis now only employ'd for the laying up of corn and other merchandise. At a little distance from this, is Gods-house, which with the Chapel over against it to the north, in the late Civil wars was pull'd down, for preventing inconveniencies when the siege was against Hull. But now both of them are built again, and the house is enlarg'd; and the Arms of the De la Poles, being found among the rubbish cut in stone, are now set over the door, with this Inscription: Deo & pauperibus posuit D. Michael de la Pole. A. D. 1384. The Chapel over against it is built on the old foundation, with this Inscription over the door; Hoc sacellum Deo. & pauperibus posuit D. Mich. de la Pole An. Do. 1384. quod ingruente bello civili dirutum 1643. tandem auctius instauratum fuit 1673. Ricardo Kitson S. T. B. Rectore domus Dei super Hull. Near this Chapel, to the east, is built a new Hospital for the better reception of the poor belonging to this house; the other being not large enough to contain all the poor, together with the Master and his family. This new one hath over the door; Deo & pauperibus posuit Michael de la Pole. Haec omnes reparata domus perduret in annos. W. Ainsworth, Rector, An. Dom. 1663.
Without the walls, westward of the town, stands the Water-house, which at first came from Julian-Well; it appearing by an Inquisition made in 3 Hen. 4. that drawing a new Sewer from thence to the town through the meadows and pastures of Anlabie, would be no damage to the King or any other person. But in the latter end of the said King's reign, upon a motion to supply the town from thence, it was consider'd that part of the spring descending from the Priory of Haltemprise, it could not be done without licence from the Pope; and so the Grant thereof was seal'd to the town from Rome in the year 1412. under the hands and seals of three Cardinals. Afterward, the course of that spring altering, and running into the grounds of Sir John Barrington, the town was forc'd to compound with him.
The Mayor of this town hath two Maces; a large one for festival days, and for ordinary days a small one: besides, he hath two swords, the one given by King Richard 2. and the other, which is the larger, by King Henry 8. yet but one born before him at a time.
This town hath given the honourable title of Earl to Robert Pierpoint of Holme, Viscount Newark, created July 25. 4 Car. 1. who was succeeded by Henry his son, created also Marquis of Dorchester, Mar. 25. 1645. during life only. The Earldom is at present enjoy'd by the same family, in the person of the right honourable Evelin Pierpoint.
[i] The neighbouring tract Holderness also, hath afforded the same title first to John Ramsey Viscount Hardington, created Dec. 30. 18 Jac. 1. who dying without issue, it was conferr'd Jan. 24. 1643. upon Pr. Rupert Count Palatine of the Rhine. At present the right honourable Coniers D'Anvers enjoys this title of E. of Holderness. The true ancient writing of the name is Hol-deir-nesse, as much as to say, the promontory of Hol-deire, so call'd to distinguish it from Deira-ƿald, now the Wolds. Tho' after all, the Country seems rather to have had this name of distinction given it from the river Hull which passes through it, than (as Holland both in Lincolnshire and beyond sea) from hol, cavus or hollow. The Seigniory of Holderness belongs to the right honourable Robert Viscount Dunbar. The town of Hedon finds him a prison for those taken in the Liberty of Holderness, till they can be sent to the Castle of York. The same town finds him a Hall, wherein he holds a Court call'd Wapentak-Court, for tryal of Actions under forty shillings.
[k] What our Author has told us from common Fame concerning the flourishing condition of Headon, Headon. may be confirm'd from the remains and marks of two Churches (besides that one they have) which must argue its former populousness, and by consequence a flourishing trade. In St. Austin's, the present Church,See Beverley. are the pictures of a King and a Bishop, with this Inscription,
The old Haven nigh the town being grown up, there is a new cut made on the South-east, which helps to scowre that part of the Haven now left; but without any hopes of rendring it so useful as formerly it was. In the year 1656. a great part of the town was consum'd with fire; and about two years ago several houses in the market-place suffer'd the same fate: but now the greatest part is rebuilt, and the town thereby render'd much more beautiful. Of late years they have grown in wealth more than formerly; which is suppos'd to be owing principally to the several Fairs procur'd for them. The Inhabitants have a tradition that the Danes destroy'd this town; and there is a Close belonging to it, call'd Danes-field to this day.
[l] To the two acceptations our Author has given us of Praetorium, Praetorium. may be added a third; and that too the most probable reason why Antoninus should call our Patrington, Praetorium. I mean, the General's tent in their ordinary encampments, in which s [...]nse the most learnedDe Mi [...]it. Rom. lib. 5. p. 40, 41. Lipsius has shown it to be us'd. And this seems much more agreeable to the Roman affairs in Britain, than either of the other two significations.
[m] Upon the Spurn-head Spurnhead. (the utmost part of the Promontory) call'd by some Conny-hill, is a Light-house built in the year 1677. by one Mr. Justinian Angel of London, who had a Patent for it from Charles the second. But the Lord Dunbar claiming the ground, there arose a difference between them, which is not yet ended. The Lights however are kept up; and in the year 1684. a Day-mark was also erected, being a Beacon with a barrel on the top of it.
[n] In these parts of Holderness, there have been several towns swallow'd up by the Humber and the Sea. Frismerk Frismerk. particularly, which upon the grant of a tenth and fifteenth to the King about the 18th of Edw. 3. represented to the King and Parliament how much they had suffer'd by the Sea and River breaking in upon them, and petition'd to have a proportionable deduction made in the Rating. Whereupon, Commissioners were appointed to make enquiry concerning it; who certify'd that a third part of their lands were totally destroy'd by the tides: so the King issued out his Precept to the Assessors and Collectors to supersede, &c. and they were assess'd according to their moveables at 1 l. 6 s. 8 d. for each of the two years. He also sent his Mandate to the Barons of the Exchequer, commanding that neither then, nor on the like occasion for the future, they should be rated at any greater summ. The like Mandate was directed to the Collectors of Wooll in the East riding, for a proportionable abatement to the Inhabitants of the town of Frismerk.
In the sixteenth of Edward the third, among other Towns in Holderness bordering on the Sea and Humber, mention is made of Tharlethorp, Redmayr, Penysthorp; but now not one of them is to be heard of. At what time precisely they were lost, does not appear; but about the 30th of Edw. 3. the tides in the rivers of Humber and Hull flow'd higher by four foot than usual; so tis likely they might then be overflow'd. Probably also about the same time, Ravensere (which seems to be the same with Mr. Camden's Ravenspur, and Ravensburg) was much damnify'd, and not long after totally lost. The Inhabitants hereabouts talk of two other towns, Upsall and Potterfleet, which are quite destroy'd. About 38 Edw. 3. the Lands and Meadows between Sudcote-steel and Hull were much overflow'd; when probably Ravensere was entirely lost, and the town of Dripool, with the adjoyning grounds, very much damnify'd: at which town 'tis said they of Ravensere design'd to settle, but were forc'd to go to Hull. Likewise before, about the 30th of Edw. 3. the High-way betwixt Anlaby and Hull, as also the Grounds and Pastures lying between both these places and Hessel, were all drown'd; but the said King by his Letters Patents order'd several persons to see that an old ditch thereabouts should be dress'd, and a new one (24 foot broad) should be made, and the way rais'd higher; which was accordingly effected.
[o] As little as our Authour values John de Bridlington Bridling [...] (who dyd A. D. 1379.) he has to this day, in all that neighbourhood, the repute of a Saint. And very justly too, if all the mighty things be true of him which Nicholas Harpsfield in his Ecclesiastical History has related with gravity and good assurance.P. 557. In the 16th of Car. 2. Richard Boyl Baron Clifford, &c. was created Earl of Bridlington or Burlington.
A little overward from Hornsey is the Marr, Marr. a water pretty deep and always fresh, about a mile and a half long, and half a mile broad, well-stor'd with the best Pikes, Perches, and Eels. Whether it has been caus'd at first by some Earth-quake with an overflow that might follow it, is hard to say; but they tell you that there have been old trees seen floating upon it, and decay'd nuts found on the shore. And 'tis certain, that in the Sea-cliffs against Hornsey both have been met with; at present also there is (or at least was very lately) a vein of wood that looks as black as if it had been burnt; which possibly is occasion'd by the saltness of the Sea-water, both preserving wood better than fresh-water, and also by its saltness (and consequently greater heat) helping to turn it black.
[p] Upon the Coast of the German Ocean is Hornsey, Hornsey. the Church-steeple whereof, being a high broach or spire, is a notable Sea-mark; tho' now it is much fal'n to ruin, and the Inhabitants are scarce able to repair it. Not many years ago, there was a small street adjoyning to the Sea, call'd Hornsey-beck, which is now washt away except one or two houses; and about Skipsie, Skipsie. a few miles north of Hornsey, they have a tradition of a town call'd Hide being devour'd by the Sea.
More inward into the Land is Rudston, Rudston. where in the Church-yard is a kind of Pyramidal-stone of great height. Whether the name of the town may not have some relation to it, can be known only from the private History of the place; but if the stone bear any resemblance with a Cross, Rod in Saxon implies so much.
[q] Concerning the Vipseys Vipseys. hereabouts, take what the ingenious Mr. Ray was pleas'd to communicate, among other things relating to these parts.
‘If any be so curious as to enquire how a glut of rain comes to cause such a springing up of waters? I answer, that there are hereabout in the wolds, and in like places where such jets happen, great subterraneous basins or receptacles of water, which have, issuing out from their bottoms, or near them, some narrow small veins or chanels reaching up to the surface of the earth. So the water in the basin lying much higher than the place of eruption by its weight forces that in the veins upward, and makes it spout up to a great height, as is evidently seen in the Lacus Lugeus, or Zirchnitzer-Sea: in which this spouting up of water happens every year after the rains are fall'n in the Autumn. These suddain and intermittent fountains or eruptions of water have a particular name in Kent as well as Yorkshire, being there call'd Nailbourns.’
From Richard de Beauchamp (the last Earl of Albemarle Earls of Albemarle. mention'd by our Authour) that title was vacant, till, upon the Restoration of King Charles the second, George Monk (who had been chiefly instrumental in it) was advanc'd to the Honours of Baron Monk of Potheridge, Beauchamp, and Tcyes; as also Earl of Torrington and Duke of Albemarle, July 7. 12 Car. 2. Who departing this Life in 1669. was succeeded in his Estate and Titles by Christopher his son and heir.
NORTH-RIDING.
SCarce two miles above the Promontory of Flamburorw, the North-part of this Country, or the North-riding, [...]or [...]h- [...]ding. begins; which makes the frontier to the other parts. From the Sea it extends it self in a very long, but narrow tract, for threescore miles together, as far as Westmorland, to the west. 'Tis bounded on this side with the river Derwent, and for some time by the Ure; on the other all along by the course of the river Tees, which separates it from the Bishoprick of Durham to the North. This Riding may not unfitly be divided into these parts, Blackamore, Cliveland, Northalvertonshire, and Richmondshire.
That which lyeth East and towards the Sea, is call'd Blackamore, that is a land black and mountainous, being with craggs, hills, and woods up and down it, rugged and unsightly. The Sea-coast is eminent for Scarborough, a very famous Castle, formerly call'd Scear-burg, i.e. a Bourg upon a steep Rock [a]; Take the description of it from the History of William of Newburgh. A rock of wonderful height and bigness, and inaccessible by reason of steep craggs almost on every side, stands into the Sea; which quite surrounds it, but in one place, where a narrow slip of land gives access to it on the West. It has on the top a pleasant plain, grassy and spacious, of about sixty acres or upwards, and a little well of fresh water, springing from a rock in it. In the very entry, which puts one to some pains to get up, stands a stately tower; and beneath the entry the City begins, spreading its two sides South and North, and carrying its front Westward, where it is fortified with a wall; but on the East is fenc'd by that rock where the Castle stands; and lastly, on both sides by the Sea. William, sirnam'd le Grosse, Earl of Albemarle and Holderness, observing this place to be fitly situated for building a Castle on, encreased the natural strength of it by a very costly work, having enclosed all that plain upon the rock with a wall, and built a Tower in the entrance. But this being decay'd and falln by the weight of too much age, King Henry the second commanded a great and brave Castle to be built upon the same spot. For he had now reduc'd the Nobility of England, who during the loose reign of King Stephen, had impaired the revenues of the Crown; but especially this William of Albemarle, who Lorded it over all these parts, and kept this place as his own.
It is not to my purpose, to relate the desperate boldness of Thomas Stafford, who, that he might fall from great attempts, surpriz'd this Castle in Queen Mary's reign, with a very small number of Frenchmen, and kept it for two days: nor yet that Sherleis, a noble Frenchman of the same party, was arraign'd for High-Treason, altho' he was a foreigner, because he had acted contrary to the duty of his Allegiance, [...] Dier. [...]. there being then a Peace between the Kingdoms of England and France. These things are too well known in the world to need a publication here. Yet it is worth remarking, that those of Holland and Zealand carry on a very plentiful and gainful trade of fishing in the Sea here for herrings (call them in Latin Haleces, Leucomenidae, Chalcides, The gainful trade of herring-fishing. or what you please) whereas by an old Constitution, they use to get a Licence first for it from this Castle. For the English always granted leave for fishing; reserving the Honour to themselves, but out of a lazy temper resigning the gain to others. For 'tis almost incredible what vast gains the Hollanders make by this Fishery on our Coast. These herrings (pardon me if I digress a little to shew the goodness of God towards us) which in the former age swarmed only about Norway, now in our time, by the bounty of divine providence, swim in great shoals towards our coasts. About Mid-summer, they draw from the main sea towards the coasts of Scotland, at which time they are immediately sold off, as being then at their best. From thence they next arrive on our coasts; and from the middle of August to November, there is excellent and most plentiful fishing for them all along from Scarborough to the Thames-mouth. Afterwards, by stormy weather they are carried into the British sea, and there caught till Christmas; thence having ranged the coast of Ireland on both sides, and gone round Britain, they convey themselves into the Northern Ocean, where they remain till June; and after they have cast their spawn, return again in great shoals. This relation puts me in mind of what I have formerly read in S. Ambrose: Fish in prodigious numbers, Hexameron, l. 5. c. 10. meeting as it were by common consent out of many places from several creeks of the sea, in one united body make towards the blasts of the Aquilo▪ North-east wind, and by a kind of natural instinct swim into the northern seas. One would think, to see them as they climb the main, that some tide were approaching; they rush on and cut the waves with such violence as they go through the Propentis to the Euxine Sea. But now to return.
From hence the shore is craggy, and bendeth inward as far as the river Teise; and by its winding in,Teise river. there is caused a bay about a mile broad, which is called Robin-Hoods Bay, Robbin Hood's Bay. from that famous Out law Robin Hood, who flourish'd in the reign of Rich. the first, (as Jo. Major a Scotchman informs us. who stiles him, a principal and leading robber, and the most kind and obliging robber.) From hence the shore immediately going back on both sides, lets us see the Bay Dunus sinus mention'd in Ptolemy,Dunum. upon which is seated the little village Dunesly; Dunesley. and just by it, Whitby, Whitby. in the Saxon tonguea Streanes-Heale, which Bede renders, the bay of the Watch-tower. I will not dispute this explanation of it, though in our language it seems so plainly to intimate the bay of Safety, that I should certainly [Page 751-752] have said it was the Sinus Salutaris, if its situation (as the Geographer makes it) did not perswade me to the contrary [b]. Here are found certain stones,Stony-Serpents. resembling the wreaths and folds of a serpent, the strange frolicks of nature, which (as one says) she forms for diversion after a toilsome application to serious business. For one would believe them to have been serpents, crusted over with a bark of stone. Fame ascribes them to the power of Hilda'sHilda. prayers, as if she had transform'd them [c]. In the infancy of the Saxon Church, she withstood, to the utmost of her power, the tonsure of the Clergy, and the celebration of Easter after the Roman manner, in a Synod touching these matters An. 664. held in the Monastery she had founded in this place, whereof her self was first Governess [d].Geese droping down. It is also ascribed to the power of her sanctity, that those wild Geese which in the winter fly in great flocks to the lakes and rivers unfrozen in the southern parts; to the great amazement of every one, fall down suddenly upon the ground, when they are in their flight over certain neighbouring fields hereabouts: a relation I should not have made, if I had not received it from several very credible men. But those who are less inclin'd to heed superstition, attribute it to some occult quality in the ground, and to somewhat of antipathy between it and the Geese, such as they say is between Wolves and Scylla-roots. For that such hidden tendencies and aversions as we call Sympathies and Antipathies, Sympathy and Antipathy. are implanted in many things by provident nature for the preservation of them, is a thing so evident, that every body grants it. Edelfleda the daughter of King Oswin, afterwards enriched this Abbey with very large revenues; and here also she buried her father. But at length, in the times of the Danish ravages, it was destroyed; and although Serlo Percius (who presently after the Conquest was made Governour of it) rebuilt it, yet at this day it has hardly the least shew of its ancient greatness. Hard by, upon a steep hill near the sea (which yet is between two that are much higher) a Castle of Wada a Saxon Duke is said to have stood,Duke Wada, from whom the family of the Wad [...]s derive their pedigree. who (in the confused disorderly times of the Northumbrians, so fatal to petty Princes) having combined with those that murder'd King Ethered, gave battel to King Ardulph at Whalley in Lancashire, but with such ill fortune, that his army was routed, and himself forced to fly for it. Afterwards he fell into a distemper which kill'd him, 798 and was interr'd on a hill here between two hard stones about seven foot high; which being at twelve foot distance from one another,Wadesgrave. occasions a current report, that he was a gyant in bulk and stature. Long after, Peter de Malo-lacu built a Castle near this place, which from its grace and beauty he nam'd in French Moultgrace, Moulgrave Castle. (as we find it in the History of Meaux,) but because it became a grievance to the neighbours thereabouts, the people (who have always the right of coyning words) by changing one single letter call'd it Moultgrave; by which name it is every where known, tho' the reason of it be little understood.Barons de Malo-lacu. This Peter de Malo-lacu, commonly called Mauley (that I may satisfie the curious in this point) born in Poictou in France, married the only daughter of Robert de Turnham in the reign of Rich. 2. by whose right he came to a very great inheritance here, enjoyed by seven Peters, Lords de Malo-lacu successively, who bore for their Arms, a bend sable in an Escocheon Or. But at last the seventh dying without issue,1 the inheritance came to be parted by the sisters between the Knightly families of the Salvains and Bigots [e]. Near this place, and elsewhere on this shore, is found Black Amber or Geate. Geate. Some take it to be the Gagates, Gagates. which was valued by the Ancients among the rarest stones and jewels. It grows upon the rocks, within a chink or cliff of them; and before it is polish'd looks reddish and rusty, but after, is really (as Solinus describes them) black and shining like a diamond.Others are of opinion, that our Pit-coal is a sort of Gagates. Of which, thus Rhemnius Palaemon from Dionysius:
Likewise Marbodaeus in his Treatise of Jewels:
Hear also what Solinus says: In Britain there is great store of Gagates or Geate, a very fine stone. If you ask the colour, it is black and shining; if the quality, it is exceeding light; if the nature, it burns in water, and is quenched with oyl; if the virtue, it has an attractive power when heated with rubbing [f].
From Whitby the shore winds back to the westward; near which stands Cliveland, Cliv [...]la [...] so called, as it seems, from precipices, which in our language we call Cliffs; for it is situated by the side of several steep hills up and down here; from the foot of which the country falls into a plain fertile ground [g].
Upon the shore, Skengrave, a small village, flourishes by the great variety of fish it takes; where, seventy years ago, it is reported, they caught aHom [...] ma [...] [...] seaman,A Sea M [...] who lived upon raw fish for some days; but at last taking his opportunity, he made his escape again into his own element. When the winds are laid, and the sea in a still calm, the waters thereof being spread into a flat plain, very often a hideous groaning is suddenly heard here, and then the fishermen are afraid to go to sea; who, according to their poor sence of things, believe the Ocean to be a huge monster, which is then hungry, and eager to glut it self with mens bodies. Beneath Skengrave stands Kilton, Kilton a castle, with a park quite round it; this belonged formerly to the famous family of the Thwengs, whose estate fell to the Barons of Lumley, Hilton, and Daubeny. Very near this place is seated Skelton-castle, which belongs to the ancient family of the Barons de Brus, Bruis of Ske [...]ton. who are descended from Robert Brus a Norman. He had two sons, Adam Lord of Skelton, Skelton. and Robert Lord of Anan-dale in Scotland, from whom sprang the Royal Line of Scotland. But Peter Brus▪ the fifth Lord of Skelton, died without issue, and left his sisters heirs; Agnes married to Walter de Falconberg; Barons F [...] conberg. Lucie married to Marmaduke de Thwenge, from whom the Baron Lumley is descended; Margaret married to Robert de Roos; and Laderina married to John de Bella-aqua; men of great honour and repute in that age. The Posterity of Walter de Falconberg flourish'd a long time; but at last the estate fell by a female to2 William Nevil, famous for his valour, and honour'd with the title of Earl of Kent by King Edward the fourth. His daughters were married to J. Coigniers, N. Bedhowing, and R. Strangwayes.
Near Hunt-cliff on the shore, when the tide is out, the rocks shoot out pretty high; and upon these your Sea-calves (which we contractedly name Seales, as some think for Sea-veals or Sea-calves) lodge in great droves, and there sleep and sun themselves. Upon one of the rocks nearest to the shore, some one of these stands centry, as it were; and when any body comes near, he either pushes down a stone, or casts himself upon the water with great noise, to alarm the rest, that they may provide for themselves, and get into the water. Their greatest fear is of men; if they are pursued by them and want water, they commonly [Page] keep them off, by casting up sand and gravel with their hinder feet. They are not in such awe of women; so that those men that would take them, disguise themselves in their habit. Here are found on this Coast yellowish and reddish stones; some rusted over with a brinish substance, which by their smell and taste resemble Coperas, Nitre, and Brimstone: and also great store of Pyrites like brass in colour.
Near, at Huntly Nabb, the shore (which for a long way together has lain open) now riseth high with craggs; and up and down at the bottoms of the rocks lye stones of several sizes so exactly form'd round by nature, [...] that one would think them bullets cast by some Artist for the great Guns. If you break them, you find within Stony-serpents wreath'd up in Circles, but generally without heads. Hence we come in view of Wilton-castle, [...]ton. formerly belonging to the Bulmers. Higher up at Dobham the river Tees flows into the Sea, having first receiv'd many small rivulets; the last of which is a nameless one, entring it near Yarum, [...]um. known for its market; and washes Stokesley, [...]kesley. a small market-town likewise, which hath been long in the hands of the famous family de Eure. Below these, [...]lton. stands Wharlton-castle, which formerly belonged to the Barons Meinill; and Harlsey, to the family of Hothom, but afterwards to the Strangwayes: both of them old and ruinous.
The mouth of the Tees, I spoke of, was hardly trusted by Mariners heretofore; but now it is found to be a safe Harbour: and to direct the entrance, there were Light-houses made upon both sides of it within the memory of this age. Four miles from the mouth of this river, [...]. Gisburgh stands upon a rising ground; at present a small town: while it was in its prime, it was very much graced by a beautiful and rich Monastery built about the year 1119. by Robert de Brus Lord of the town. It has been the common burial-place for all the Nobility of these parts, and has produced Walter de Hemingford, no unlearned Historian. The place is really fine, and may for pleasantness, a curious variety, and the natural advantages of it, compare with Puteoli in Italy; and then for a healthful and agreeable situation, it certainly far surpasses it. The coldness of the air, which the sea occasions, is qualified and broken by the hills between; the soil is fruitful, and produces grass and fine flowers a great part of the year; it richly abounds with veins of metal and Alum-earth of several colours (but especially with those of ocher and murray) from which they now begin to extract the best sort of Alum and Coperas in great plenty. [...]. This was first discover'd a few years since by the admirable sagacity of that learned Naturalist Sir Thomas Chaloner Kt. (to whose tuition, his present Majesty has committed the delight and glory of Britain, his son Prince Henry,) by observing that the leaves of trees were [...] is [...]rere. of a more wealky sort of Green here than in other places; that the oaks shot forth their roots very broad, but not deep; and that these had much strength but little sap in them; that the soil was a white clay, speckled with several colours, namely, white, yellowish and blue; that it never f [...]oze; and that in a pretty clear night it shin d and sparkl'd like glass upon the road-side [h]. Next, [...] Ounesbery-Topping, a steep mountain and all over green, riseth so high, that it appears at a great distance; and it is the land-mark that directs sailers, and a prognostick to the neighbours hereabouts. For when it's top begins to be darken'd with clouds, rain generally follows3. Near the top of it, a fountain issues from a great stone, very good for sore eyes. And from hence, the valleys round it, the grassy hills, green meadows, rich pastures, fruitful cornfields, fishy rivers, and the creeky mouth of the Tees, low and open shores yet free from inundation, and the sea with the ships in it, render the prospect very delicate. Beneath this stands Kildale, a Castle belonging to the Percies Earls of Northumberland; and more to the eastward, Danby, which from Brus, by the Thwengs, came to the Barons Latimer, from whose heir are descended the Willoughbies Barons Broke. But this Danby, among other estates, was sold to the Nevils, of whom George Nevil was summon'd among the Barons to Parliament by Henry 6. under the title of Lord Latimer; Barons Latimer. in whose posterity that dignity remain'd to our age [i]. I have nothing now to observe here,The History of C [...]nterbury. but that the Baron de Meinill held some lands in this County of the Archbishops of Canterbury, and that the Coigniers and Strangwaies 4, with some others descended from them, are obliged to be attendant, and to pay certain military services to the Archbishops for the same.Praerogativ. Reg. 1 [...] Edw. 2. Wardship. And whereas the King of England, by his prerogative (these are the very words of it) shall have the Wardship of all the lands of them that hold of him in chief by Knights service, of which themselves as tenants have been seised in their demesne as of fee at the time of their decease, of whomsoever they held by the like service, so that themselves notwithstanding hold of the King any tenement of the ancient demesne of the crown, till such time as the heir has come to years: Yet these fees are excepted, and others of the Archbishop of Canterbury and the Bishop of Durham5, so that they shall have the wardship of such lands, tho' elsewhere they held of the King.
More inward among the mountains of Blackamore, Blackamore there is nothing remarkable to be met with (besides some rambling brooks and rapid torrents, which take up as it were all the vallies hereabouts;) unless it be Pickering, a pretty large town belonging to the Dutchy of Lancaster, seated upon a hill, and fortified with an old Castle, to which many neighbouring villages round about do belong, so that the adjacent territory is commonly called Pickering Lith, the Liberty of Pickering, and the Forest of Pickering; Pickering. which Hen. 3. gave to Edmund his younger son E. of Lancaster. In this, upon the Derwent Atton Atton. is situated, which gives name to the famous family of the Attons Knights, descended from the Lords de Vescy, whose estate was divided by the daughters between Edward de St. John, the Euers, and the Coigniers. From this Edward de St. John, a great part thereof came by a daughter to Henry Bromflet; who was summon'd to Parliament in the following manner,27 Hen. 6. Bromflet Lord Vescy. (no where else to be met with among the Summons to Parliament;) We will that both you and the heirs males of your body lawfully begotten, be Barons of Vescy. Afterwards this title went by a daughter to the Cliffords. On the other side, four miles from Pickering, near Dow (a very strong current) is Kirkby-Morside, Kirkby-Moreside. none of the most inconsiderable market-towns, formerly belonging to the Estotevills, and situate near hills, from which it takes it's name.
From these, westward, stands Rhidale, Rhidale. a very fine valley, pleasant and fruitful, adorn'd with 23 Parish-Churches, and the river Rhy running through the midst of it. A place (says Newbrigensis) of vast solitude and horror, till Walter Espec gave it to the Cluniack Monks, and founded a Cloister for them. Here Elmesly is seated,Elmesley, call'd also Hamlak. which (if I do not mistake) Bede calls Ulmetum, where Robert sirnamed de Ross, built the Castle Fursam; near which, the river Recall hides it self under ground. Lower down upon this river stands Riton, the old estate of an ancient family the Percihaies, commonly called Percyes. From hence the Rhy, with the many waters received from other currents, rolls into the Derwent, which washes Malton Malton. in this valley, a market-town, famous for its vent of corn, horses, fish, and Country-utensils. There the foundation of an old Castle is visible, which formerly, as I have heard, belonged to the Vesceys, Baron Vescey. Barons of great note in these parts. Their pedigree (as appears from the Records of the Tower) is from William Tyson, who was Lord of Malton and Alnewick in Northumberland, and was cut off in the battel of Hastings against the Normans. His only daughter was married to Ivo de Vescy a Norman, who likewise left one only daughter called Beatrice, married to Eustachius the son of John Monoculus, who in the reign of K. Stephen founded two Religious houses, at Malton and Watton. For his second wife (daughter to William, Constable of Chester) was Lady of Watton. William [Page] the son of Eustachius by his wife Beatrice, being ripped out of his mothers womb, took the name Vescey, and for Arms,Arms of the V [...]scies. Matth. Paris MS. A Cross, Argent, in a field, Gules. This William, by B. daughter to Robert Estotevill of Knaresburgh, had two sons; Eustach de Vescey, who married Margaret daughter to William King of Scotland; and7 Guarin de Vescey Lord of Knapton. Eustach was father to William, who had a son John that died without issue, and William famous for his exploits in Ireland, and who changed the old Arms of the family into a shield, Or, with a Cross, Sable. William (his lawful son John dying in the wars of Wales) gave some of his lands in Ireland to King Edward, that his natural son called William de Kildare, might inherit his estate;Lib. Dunelm. and made Anthony Bec Bishop of Durham, his Feoffee in trust to the use of his son; who hardly acquitted him [...]elf fairly in that part of his charge relating to Alnwick, Eltham in Kent, and some other estates, which he is said to have converted to his own use This natural son aforesaid was slain at Sterling fight in Scotland; and the title fell at last to the family of the Attons by Margaret the only daughter of8 Guarin Vescy, who was married to Gilbert de Atton. Vid. pag. praeced. But enough of this, if not too much; and besides, we spoke of it before.
Near this valley stands Newborrow, Newborrow. to which we owe William of Newborrow, an English Historian, learned and diligent, (now it is the Seat of the famous family de Ballasise, who are originally from the Bishoprick of Durham;) and also Belleland, commonly call'd Biland; Biland. two famous Monasteries, both f [...]unded and endow'd by Roger Mowbray. Family of the Mowbrays. The family of these Mowbrays was as considerable as any for power, honours, and wealth: they possessed very great estates, with the castles of Slingesby, Thresk, and others in these parts. The rise of this family was in short thus: Roger de Mowbray Earl of Northumberland, and R. deIn another pl [...]ce call'd De Frente Bovis. Grandebeofe, being for disloyalty dep [...]iv'd of their estates, King Henry the first gave a great part of them to Nigell de Albenie (descended from the same family with the Albenies Earls of Arondell) a man of very noble extraction among the Normans. He was Bow-bearer to William Rufus, and enrich'd to that degree by him,The Register of Fountain-Abby. that he had in England 140 Knights fees, and in Normandy 120. His son Roger was also commanded by him to take the name of Mowbray, f [...]om whom the Mowbrays Earls of Nottingham, and the Dukes of Norfolk, are descended. To these Mowbrays also Gilling-castle, Gilling-castle. a little way from hence, did formerly belong; but now 'tis in the hands of that ancient and famous family, which from their fair hair, have the name of Fairfax: Fairfax. for fax Fax. in the old Saxon signifies hair, or the hairs of the head; upon which account they call'd a Comet or Blazing-star a Faxed-star, Faxed-star. as also the place before spoken of, Haly-fax, from holy hair.
Below this to the Southward lyes the Calaterium nemus, commonly The Forest of Galtres, The Forest of Galtres. which in some places is thick and shady, in others plain, wet, and boggy. At present it is famous for a yearly Horse-race,A Horse-race. wherein the prize for the horse that wins is a little golden bell. 'Tis hardly credible what great resort of people there is to these races from all parts, and what great wagers are laid upon the horses. In this Forest stands Creac, Creac. which Egfrid King of Northumberland in the yearb 684 gave with the ground three miles round it to S. Cuthbert; by whom it came to the Church of Durham.
Scarce four miles from hence, Sherry-hutton, Sherry-hutton. a very neat Castle built by9 Bertrand de Bulmer, and repair'd by Ralph Nevill first Earl of Westmorland, is pleasantly seated among the woods: near which is† Hinderskell, Hinderskel a Castle built by the Barons of Greystock, which others callCentum fontes. Hunderd-skell, from the many fountains that spring there.
Behind the hills to the Westward, where the Country falls again into a level, and the fields are more fruitful,North Alvertonshire lyes Alvertonshire, commonly North-Allerton, a small territory water'd by the little river Wiske. It takes its name from the town of Northalverton, formerly Ealfertun, which is nothing but a long street; yet, the most throng Beast-fair upon St. Bartholomew's day, that ever I saw. King William Rufus gave this place, with the fields about it, to the Church of Durham; to the Bishops whereof it is much obliged. For William Comin, who forcibly possess'd himself of the See of Durham, built the Castle there, and gave it to his nephew; which is almost decay'd. The Bishops likewise, his Successors, endow'd it with some privileges. For in the Book of Durham,Cap. 1 [...] we find, that Hugh de Puteaco, Bishop of Durham, fortified the Town, having obtain'd this favour of the King, that of all those unlawful Castles which by his order were then destroy'd up and down throughout England, this alone should still be permitted to remain entire; which notwithstanding, the King afterwards commanded to be rased, 113 [...] and laid even with the ground. The B [...] of Sta [...] ard. Near this was fought the battel, commonly call dc The Standard, wherein David King of Scotland, who by his unhea [...]d of cruelty had made this Country a mere desert,Hoved [...] was put to flight with such slaughter of his men, that the English themselves thought their revenge then at last sufficiently completed. For what Ralph the Bishop said in his Exhortation to the English befo [...]e the fight, was fully effected: A multitude without discipline is a hindrance to it self, either to hurt when they conquer, or to escape when they are conquer'd. This was call'd the Battel of Standard, because the English, being rang'd into a body about their Standard, there receiv'd and bore the onset of the Scots, and at last routed them. Now this Standard (as I have seen it d [...]awn in old books) was a huge Chariot upon wheels, with aMa [...] mast of great height fix'd in it; on the top whereof was a cross, and under that hung a banner. This was a signal only us'd in the greatest Expeditions, and was lookt upon as the sacred Altar; being indeed the very same with the Carrocium Carroc [...] among the Italians, which was never to be used but when the very Empire it self lay at stake.
There is farther remarkable in this division, Thresk, Thresk. commonly Thrusk. which had formerly a very strong Castle, where Roger de Mowbray began his rebellion, and call d in the King of Scots to the destruction of his Country; King Henry the second having very unadvisedly digg'd his own grave, by taking his son into an equal share of the Government and Royalty. But this Sedition was at last, as it were quencht with blood; and the Castle utterly demolisht; so that I could see nothing of it there, besides the rampire. Another flame of Rebellion likewise broke out here in King Henry the seventh's reign. For the lawless Rabble repining most grievously at that time, that a small subsidy was laid on them by the Parliament, drove away the Collectors of it, and forthwith (as such madness upon the least success spurs on without end or aim) fell here upon Henry Percie Earl of Northumberland, who was Lieutenant of this County,Earl of North [...] berland slain by [...] Rebels and kill'd him: then under the conduct of John Egremond their Leader, took up Arms against their King and Country. Yet it was not long before they were brought to such heavy punishments as were due to them. Here hard by stands Soureby and Brakenbak, belonging to the truly ancient and famous family of Lascelles: Lascell [...] and more to the Southward, Sezay, formerly the estate of the Darells, after that of the Dawnies, who flourish'd long under the title of Knights.
The first and only Earl of Yorkshire (after William Mallet, and one or two Estotevills, Earls [...] Dukes o [...] York. both of Norman extraction; whom some would have to have been hereditary Viscounts here) was Otho (son of Henry Leon Duke of Bavaria and Saxony,An. 1 R Hoved [...] by Maud the daughter of Henry the second King of England) who was afterwards greeted Emperour by the name of Otho the fourth. From whose brother William (another son by Maud) the Dukes of BrunswickDukes o [...] Bruns [...] and Lunenburgh [Page] in Germany are descended; who, as an instance of this relation of theirs to the Kings of England, us'd the same Arms with the first Kings of England that were of Norman descent, namely, two Leopards or Lions, Or, in a Shield, Gules. Long after this, King Richard the second made Edmund of Langley, fifth son to King Edward the third, Duke of York: who by one of the daughters of Peter, King of Castile and Leon, had two sons; Edward the eldest, in the life time of his father was first Earl of Cambridge, after that, Duke of Albemarle, and last of all Duke of York, who without issue lost his life valiantly in the battel of Agincourt in France. Richard the second son, was Earl of Cambridge; he married Ann, sister of Edmund Mortimer Earl of March, whose grandmother likewise was the only daughter and heir of Leonel Duke of Clarence; and attempting to set the Crown upon the head of his wife's brother Edmund, was presently found out, and beheaded, as if he had been hired by the French to destroy King Henry the fifth. Richard his son, in the sixteenth year after, by the great, but unwary generosity of Henry the sixth, [...] 10 H. was fully restored, as son of Richard the brother of Edward Duke of York, and Cousin German to Edmund Earl of March. And now being Duke of York, Earl of March and Ulster, Lord of Wigmore, Clare, Trim, and Conaght, he grew to that pitch of boldness, that whereas formerly he had sought the Kingdom privately by ill practices, complaining of male-administration, dispersing seditious rumours and libels, entring into secret combinations, by raising broils next to wars against the Government; at last he claims it publickly as his right in Parliament against Henry the sixth,Rolls, [...] 6. as being son of Ann Mortimer, sister and heir to Edmund Earl of March, descended in a right line from Philippa the daughter and sole heir of Leonel Duke of Clarence, third son of King Edward the third; and therefore in all justice to be preferred in the succession to the Crown before the children of John of Gaunt, the fourth son of the said Edward the third. When it was answer'd him, That the Barons of the Kingdom, and the Duke himself, had sworn Allegiance to the King; that the Kingdom by Act of Parliament was conferr'd and entail'd upon Henry the fourth and his heirs; that the Duke deriving his title from the Duke of Clarence, never took the Arms of the said Duke; and that Henry the fourth was possess'd of the Crown by the right he had from Henry the third: All this he easily evaded; by replying that the said Oath sworn to the King, being barely a human Constitution, was not binding, because it was inconsistent with truth and justice, which are of Divine appointment. That there had been no need of an Act of Parliament to settle the Kingdom in the line of Lancaster, neither would they have desired it, if they could have rely'd upon any just title: and as for the Arms of the Duke of Clarence, which in right belonged to him, he had in prudence declin'd the using them, as he had done challenging the Kingdom till that moment: and that the title derived from Henry the third, was a ridiculous pretext to cloak the injustice, and exploded by every body. Tho' these things, pleaded in favour of the Duke of York, shew'd his title to be clear and evident; yet by a wise foresight to prevent the dangers that might ensue upon it, the matter was so adjusted, That Henry the sixth should possess and enjoy the Kingdom for life, and that Richard Duke of York should be appointed his heir and successor in the Kingdom10; with this proviso, that neither of them should contrive any thing to the prejudice of the other. However, this heady Duke was quickly so far transported with ambition, that by endeavouring to anticipate his hopes, he raised that pernicious war between the Houses of York and Lancaster,Wars between the House of York and Lancaster; or between the Red-rose and the white. distinguish'd by the white and the red Roses. Which in a short time prov'd fatal to himself at Wakefield. King Henry the sixth was four times taken prisoner, and at last deprived of his Kingdom and his Life. Edward Earl of March, son of Richard, then obtain'd the Crown; and tho' he was deposed, yet he recover'd it, (thus Fortune, inconstant and freakish, made her sport with the rise and fall of Princes;) many of the Blood-royal and of the greatest of the Nobility being cut off, those hereditary and rich Provinces of the Kings of England in France being lost, Ireland neglected and relapsed to their old wildness, the wealth of the Nation wasted▪ and the harass'd people oppress'd with all sorts of misery. Edward being now settled in his Throne, the fourth King of that name, bestow'd the title of Duke of York upon Richard his second son; who, with the King his brother, was destroy'd very young by that Tyrant Richard their Uncle. Next, Henry the seventh conferr'd it upon his younger son, who was afterwards, by the name of Henry the eighth, crown'd King of England. And now very lately King James invested his second son Charles (whom he had before in Scotland made Duke of Albany, 1604 Marquis of Ormond, Earl of Ross, and Baron Ardmanoch)11 tho' but a child, Duke of York, by girding him with a Sword (to use the words of the form) putting a Cap and Coronet of Gold upon his head, and by delivering him a Verge of Gold: after he had the day before, according to the usual manner, created both him and eleven others of noble families, Knights of the Bath.
There are in this County 459 Parishes, with very many Chapels under them, which for number of Inhabitants are comparable to great Parishes.
RICHMONDSHIRE.
THE rest of this County, which lyes towards the North-west, and is of large extent, is call'd Richmondshire, or Richmountshire. The name is taken from a Castle built by Alan Earl of Bretagne in Armorica, to whom William the Norman Conquerour gave this shire (which belong'd to Edwin, an English-man) by this short Charter: I William, sirnam'd Bastard, King of England, do give and grant to you my Nephew Alan Earl of Bretagne, and to your heirs for ever, all the villages and lands which of late belong'd to Earl Eadwin in Yorkshire, with the Knights-fees and other Liberties and Customs, as freely and honourably as the same Eadwin held them. Dated from our Siege before York.
With craggy Rocks and vast Mountains, this shire lyes almost all high: the sides of them here and there yield pretty rank grass; the bottoms and valleys are not altogether unfruitful. The hills afford great store of Lead, Pit-Coal, and also Brass.Brass, Lead, and Pit-coal. In a Charter of Edward the fourth's, there is mention'd a Mineral or Mine of Coper near the very City of Richmond. But covetousness, which carries men even to Hell, has not induced them to sink into these Mountains; diverted perhaps by the difficulties of carriage.
On the tops of these Mountains,Stone-cockles. as likewise in other places, there have sometimes been found stones resembling Sea cokcles and other Water-animals, which if they are not the Miracles of Nature, I cannot but think with Orosius, a Christian Historian, t [...]at they are the certain signs of an universal deluge in the times of Noah. The Sea (as he says) being in Noah's time spread over all the earth, and a deluge pour'd forth upon it, so that this whole world was overfloated, and the Sea, [Page] as heaven, surrounded the earth; all mankind was destroyed, but only those few saved in the ark for their faith, to propagate posterity; as is evidently taught by the most faithful Writers. That this was so, they have also been witnesses, who knowing neither past times, nor the Author of them, yet from the signs and import of those stones (which we often find on mountains distant from the sea, but overspread with cockles and oysters, yea oftentimes hollow'd by the water) have learn'd it by conjecture and inference [k].
Where this Shire touches upon the County of Lancaster, the prospect among the hills is so wild, solitary, so unsightly, and all things so still, that the borderers have call'd some brooks that run here, Hell becks, Hell be [...]ks. that is to say, Hell or Stygian rivulets; especially that at the head of the river Ure, which, with a bridge over it of one entire stone, falls so deep, that it strikes a horror upon one to look down to it. Here is safe living in this tract for goats, deer, and stags, which for their great bulk and branchy heads are very remarkable and extraordinary.
The river Ure, which we have often mention'd, has its rise here out of the western mountains, and first runs through the middle of the vale Wentsedale, Wentsedale which is sufficiently stock'd with cattel, and has a great deal of lead in some places. Not far from the first spring, while it is yet but small, 'tis encreased by the little river Baint from the south, which issues from the pool Semur with a great murmur. At the confluence of these two streams (where some few cottages, call'd from the first bridge over the Ure Baintbrig) was formerly a Roman garison;Bracchium. of which some remains are yet extant. For upon the hill (which from a burrough they now call Burgh) there are the groundworks of an old fortification about five acres in compass; and under it, to the east, the signs of many houses are yet apparent. Where, among several proofs of Roman Antiquity, I have seen this fragment of an old Inscription in a very fair character, with a winged Victory supporting it.
PIO PERTINACI AVGV. —
IMP CAESARI. M. AVRELIO A—
PIO FELICI AVGVSTO—
—
BRACCHIO CAEMENTICIVM—
VI NERVIORVM SVB CVRA LA
SENECION AMPLISSIMI—
OPERI L. VI SPIVS PRAE—
—LEGIO.—
From which we may conjecture, that this fort at Burgh was formerly called Bracchium, which before had been made of turf, but then was built with stone and mortar; that the sixth Cohort of the Nervii garison'd here; who also seem to have had a Summer Camp upon that high hill trenched round, which is hard by, and is now called Ethelbury. It is not long, since a Statue of Aurelius Commodus the Emperour was dug up here,Statue of Commodus the Emperour. who (as Lampridius has it) was stil'd by his flatterers Britannicus, even when the Britains were for chusing another against him. This Statue seems to have been set up, when through an extravagant esteem of himself, he arriv'd to that pitch of folly, that he commanded every one to call him, The Roman Hercules, son of Jupiter. For it is formed in the habit of Hercules, his right-hand armed with a club; and under it (as I am inform'd) was this broken and imperfect Inscription, which had been ill copied, and was quite decay'd before I came hither.
MARCI AVRELII FILIO
—
SEN IONIS AMPLISSIMI
VENTS [...] PIVS.
This was extant in Nappa, Napp [...] a house built with turrets, and the chief seat of the Medcalfs, The [...] which is counted the most numerous family this day in England. For I have heard that Sir Christopher Medcalf Knight, the chief of the family, being lately Sheriff of the County, was attended with 300 Knights all of this family and name, and in the same habit, to receive the Justices of the Assize, and conduct them to York. From hence the Ure runs very swiftly, with abundance of Crey-fishes; Crey- [...] ever since C. Medcalf, within the memory of this age, brought that sort of fish hither from the south parts of England [l]: and between two rocks (from which the place is called Att-scarre) it violently rolls down its chanel not far from Bolton, Bolton. the ancient seat of the Barons de Scrope, Barons [...] Scr [...]p [...]. and a stately castle which Richard Lord le Scrope, Chancellour of England in Richard the second's time, built at very great charge. Now taking its course eastward, it comes to the town of Midelham, Mid [...]eh [...] the Honour of which (as we read in the Genealogy of the Nevils) Alan Earl of Richmond gave to his younger brotherBy [...] Ribaa. Rinebald, with all the lands which before their coming belonged to Gilpatrick the Dane. His grandchild by his son Ralph,Lords of Mid [...]eh [...] called Robert Fitz-Ralph, had all Wentsedale bestowed on him by Conanus Earl of Bretagne and Richmond, and built a very strong castle at Midleham. Ranulph his son built a small Monastery for Canons at Coverham (now contractedly called Corham) in Coverdale;Geneal [...] antiqu [...] and his son Ralph had a daughter Mary, who being married to Robert Lord Nevill, brought this large estate for a portion to the family of the Nevils. This Robert Nevill having had many children by his wife, was taken in adultery, unknown, and had his privy members cut off by the adulteress's husband in revenge; which threw him into such excessive grief that he soon dy'd.
From hence the Ure having pass'd a few miles, washes Jervis or Jorvalle-Abbey1, which is now decay'd; then runs by Masham, Masha [...] which belonged to the Scropes of Masham, who, as they are descended from the Scropes of Bolton, fo are they again grafted into the same by marriage. On the other side of this river, but more inward, stands Snath, Snath. the chief seat of the Barons de Latimer, whose noble extraction is from G. Nevill, younger son of Ralph Nevill first Earl of Westmorland, who had this honourable title conferr'd on him by K. Henry the sixth of that name, when the elder family of the Latimers had ended in a female:Barons Latime [...] and so in a continu'd succession they have flourished till our time, when for want of heirs-male to the last Baron, this brave inheritance was parted among his daughters, who were married into the families of the Percies, the Cecils, the D'anvers, and Cornwallis. There is no other place in these parts remarkable upon the Ure, but Tanfeld, Tanfe [...] formerly the seat of the Gernegans Knights, from these it descended to the Marmions; Marm [...] l [...] q. 6. [...] the last of these left Amice his heir, the second wife of John Lord Grey of Rotherfeld, whose two children taking the name of Marmion, were heirs to their mother2; and one of them left an only daughter and heiress Elizabeth, the wife of Fitz-Hugh a famous Baron.
The Ure now receives the Swale, Swal [...] sacred [...] ver. so called (as Thom. Spott has it) from its swiftness, which enters it with a great leaping and hurry of waters. This also rises out of the western mountains, hardly five miles above the head of the river Ure, and runs to the eastward. It was very sacred among the ancient English, because when the Saxons were first converted to Christianity, there were baptiz'd in it on one day, with great joy, by Paulinus Archbishop of York, above ten thousand men, besides women and children. [Page] The course of the Swale lies through a pretty large vale, which is called Swaldale from it, and has grass enough, but wants wood: and first by Marricke, [...]rricke. where stood a Cloister built by the Askes, men of great note heretofore; then by Mask, where there is great store of lead. From thence by Richmondia, commonly Richmond, [...]chmond. the chief city of this Shire, enclos'd with walls of no great compass; yet by the s [...]burbs which shoot out in length to the three gates, it is pretty populous. It was built by Alan the first Earl, who (not daring to rely upon Gilling, [...]lling. his village or manour hard by, to withstand the assaults of the Saxons and Danes, whom the Normans had strip'd of their inheritances) grac'd it with this name, signi ying a Rich Mount, and fortify'd it with walls and a very strong castle situated upon a rock, from whence it looks down upon the river Swale, which with a great murmur seems to rush rather than run among the stones. The village Gilling was rather holy upon the account of Religion, than strong in respect of its fortifications; ever since Oswius K. of Northumberland, by the treachery of hisHospitis. Host, was slain in this place, which is called by Bede Gethling. To expiate whose murder, a Monastery was built here; which was highly esteem'd and honour'd by our ancestors. More towards the north stands Ravenswath, [...]vens [...]th. a castle encompass'd with a pretty large wall, now ruinous; which belonged to those Barons called Fitz-Hugh, [...]ron Fitz- [...]gh. descended from an old line of English who were Lords of this place before the Norman Conquest, and flourish'd till the time of Henry 7. being enriched with great estates by marriages with the heirs of the famous families of the Forneaux and Marmions; which went at last by females to the Fienes Lords Dacre in the South, and to the Parrs.
Three miles below Richmond, the Swale flows by that old city which Ptolemy and Antoninus call Caturactonium [...]uracto [...]m. and Catarracton, but Bede Catarractan, and in another place the village near Catarracta; [...]aricke. which makes me think that name given it from the Catarract, seeing here is a great fall of water hard by, tho' nearer Richmond; where (as I already observ'd) the Swale rather rushes than runs, its waters being dashed and broken by those crags it meets with. And why should he call it a village near Catarracta, if there had been no cataract of the waters there? That it was a city of great note in those times, may be inferr'd from Ptolemy, because an Observation of the Heavens was taken there. For in his Magna Constructio (lib. 2. cap. 6.) he describes the 24th parallel to be through Catarractonium in Britain, and to be distant from the aequator 57 degrees. Yet in his Geography he defines the longest day to be 18 Equinoctial hours: so that according to his own calculation, it is distant 58 degrees. [...]gnum [...] nisi no [...] habet. But at this day (as the Poet says) it has nothing great but the memory of what it was. For it is but a very small village, called Catarrick, and Catarrick-bridge; [...]tarrick. [...]dge. yet remarkable for its situation by a Roman highway which crosses the river here, and for those heaps of rubbish up and down, which carry some colour of antiquity: especially near Ketterickswart, and Burghale, which are somewhat distant from the bridge; and likewise more eastward hard by the river, where I saw a huge mount as it were with four bulwarks cast up with great labour to a considerable height [m]. What it might suffer from the Picts and Saxons, when with fire and sword they laid waste the Cities of Britain, I cannot certainly tell; yet when the Saxon Government was establish'd, it seems to have flourish'd (though Bede always calls it a village,) till in the year 769 it was burnt by Eanredus or Beanredus the tyrant, who destroyed the Kingdom of Northumberland. But immediately after, he himself was miserably burnt, and Catarractonium began to raise its head again: for, in the 77th year after, King Etheldred solemnized his marriage with the daughter of Offa, King of the Mercians, here. Yet it did not continue long flourishing; for in the Danish outrages which followed, it was utterly destroy'd.
The Swale, after a long course, not without some rubs, flows pretty near Hornby, Hornby. a castle of the family de S. Quintin, which afterwards came to the Cogniers; and besides pleasant pastures and country villages, sees nothing but Bedal, Bedal. situated upon another little river that runs into it, which in the time of King Edward the first gloried in its Baron3 Brian Fitz-Alan, Fitz-Alan▪ famous for his ancient Nobility, being descended4 from the Dukes of Britain and the Earls of Richmond: but for default of issue-male, this inheritance was brought by daughters to the Stapletons and the Greys of Rotherfeld.
The Swale being now past Richmondshire, draws nearer to the Ure, where it sees Topcliffe, Topcliffe. the chief seat of the Percies, call'd by Marianus Taden-clife, who says that in the year 949. the States of Northumberland took an oath of Allegiance there to King Eldred the West-Saxon, brother to Edmund [n]. At the very confluence of these two rivers stands Mitton, Mitton. a very small village, but memorable for no small slaughter there. For in the year 1319, when England was almost made desolate by a raging plague, the Scots continued their ravages to this place, and easily routed a considerable body of Priests and Peasants, which the Archbishop of York had drawn together against them. But now to return. From Catarractonium the military-way falls into two roads; that towards the north lies by Caldwell Caldwell. and Aldburgh, Aldburgh. (which imports in the Saxon language an old burgh.) By what name it went formerly, I cannot easily guess. It seems to have been a great City from its large ruins; and near it, by a village called Stanwig, lies a ditch of about eight miles long, drawn between the Tees and the Swale. As the Way runs towards theCircium. north-west, twelve miles off it goes by Bowes, Bowes. at present a little village, and sometimes writ Bough; where, in former ages, the Earls of Richmond had a little castle, a tribute called Thorough-toll, and their Gallows. But formerly it was called in Antoninus's Itinerary Lavatrae Lavatrae and Levatrae, as both its distance, and the situation by a military way (which is visible by the ridge of it) do plainly demonstrate. The antiquity of it is farther confirmed by an old stone in the Church, used there not long ago for a Communion-table, with this Inscription, in honour of Hadrian the Emperour.
DIVI NERVAE NEPOTI TRAIANO. Hadria
NO AVG. PONT. MAXM. —
COS. I.— P.P. COH. IIII. F. —
IO. SEV.
This fragment was also dug up here.
—
NO L. CAE
FRONTINVS.
COH. I. THRAC.
—
In Severus's reign, when Virius Lupus was Legate and Propraetor of Britain, the first Cohort of the Thracians was garison'd here; [...]neum, B [...]neum. for whose sake he restored the Balneum or bath (also called Balineum) as appears from this Inscription, which was hence convey'd to Connington, to the house of the most famous and learned Sir Robert Cotton Knight.
VIRIVS LVPVS
LEG. AVG PR. PR.
BALINEVM VI
IGNIS EXVST—
VM. COH. I. THR—
ACVM REST—
ITVIT. CVRANTE
VAL. FRON—
TONE PRAE F—
EQ ALAE VETTO.
Here I must correct an errour in those, who from a false draught of this Inscription, which has it Balingium corruptly for Balineum, imagine the place to have been call'd Balingium; whereas upon a close inspection it is plainly Balineum in the stone, a word used for Balneum by the ancients, as the learned know very well; who are not ignorant, that Baths were as much us'd by the Souldiers as any others, both for the sake of health and cleanliness (for daily, in that age, they were wont to wash before they eat;) and also that Baths, both publick and private, were built at such a lavish rate every where,Seneca. See Flintshire. that any one thought himself poor and mean, that had not the walls of his Bath adorn'd with great and costly Orbibus. Rosses. In these, men and women washed promiscuously together; tho' that was often prohibited both by the Laws of the Emperours and Synodical Decrees.
In the decline of the Roman Empire, aNumerus Exploratorum. Band of the Exploratores, with their Praefect under the command of theDacis Britanniae. Captain of Britain, had their station here; as is manifest from the Notitia, where it is nam'd Lavatres. Now seeing these Baths were also call'd Lavacra by the Latins, perhaps some Critick or other will imagine that this place was call'd Lavatrae instead of Lavacra; yet I should rather derive it from that little river running hard by, which I hear is call'd Laver. This modern name Bowes (seeing the old Town was burnt to the ground, according to a tradition among the Inhabitants) seems to me to be deriv'd from that accident. For that which is burnt with fire is call'd by the Britains, Boeth; and so the Suburbs of Chester beyond the Dee, call'd by the English Hanbridge, is nam'd by the Welsh or Britains, from its being burnt down in a Welsh in-road, Treboth, that is, a little town burnt.
Here begins that mountainous and vast tract, always expos'd to winds and rain, which from its being rough and stony is call'd by the Inhabitants, Stanemore; Stanemore. for it is quite throughout solitary, but for one Inn in the middle of it for the entertainment of Travellers5;Spittle on Stanemore. and near this is the remainder of a Cross, which we call Rere-cross, Rere-cross. and the Scots Rei-cross, that is, a Royal Cross. Hector Boetius, a Scotchman, says this stone was set as a boundary between England and Scotland, when William the first gave Cumberland to the Scots upon this condition, that they should hold it of him by fealty, and attempt nothing that might be to the prejudice of the Crown of England. Somewhat lower, just by the Roman Military way, was a small Roman Fort of a square form, which is now call'd Maiden-castle. Maiden-castle. From hence, as I had it from the Borderers, this Military Roman way went with many windings to Caer Vorran.
As the favour of Princes inclin'd, there have been several Earls of Richmond,Earls of Richmond. and of different families: of whom, with as much accuracy and clearness as I can, I will give this following account in their due order6. Alan Rufus Earl of Britain in Armorica; Alan Niger, to whom William the Conquerour gave this shire; Stephen Earl of Britain his brother; Alan Earl of Britain,About this time, Overus de St. Martino is mention'd as Earl of Richmond. the son of Stephen▪ Conanus Earl of Britain his son, who by the assistance of Henry the second King of England, recover'd Britain from his Father-in-law the Sheriff of Porhoet possessed of it, Geoffrey Plantagenet, son of Henry the second King of England, who first married Constantia, only daughter of Conanus: Arthur his son, who is said to have been made away by King John. Upon this account John was certainly impeach'd by the French as Duke of Normandy, who pass'd Sentence upon him, tho' he was absent, unheard, had made no confession, and was not convict;Normand [...] taken fro [...] the King [...] England. so they adjudg'd him depriv'd of Normandy and his hereditary Lands in France. Whereas he had publickly promis'd to stand to the judgment of Paris, and answer to the death of Arthur, who as his liege subject had taken an oath of Allegiance to him, yet had broken the same, raised a rebellion, and was taken prisoner in the war. In these times, the question was bandied, Whether the Peers of France could be Judges of a King anointed, and by consequence their Superiour; seeing every greater dignity as it were drowns the lesser, and the King of England and Duke of Normandy at that time was the self same person. But where am I thus roving? After Arthur, there succeeded in the Earldom of Richmond Guy Vicount of Thovars, second husband of Constantia aforesaid. Ranulph the third, Earl of Chester, third husband to the said Constantia. Peter de Dreux descended from the Blood-royal of France, who married Alice the only daughter of Constantia by her husband Guy Thovars. 7 Peter of Savoy, Uncle of Eleanor, Consort to King Henry the third; who fearing the Nobility and Commons of England that grumbled at that time against foreigners, voluntarily renounced this honour. John Earl of Britain, son of Peter de Dreux: John the first Duke of Britain, and his son who married Beatrice daughter to Henry the third King of England. He had issue Arthur Duke of Britain, who according to some Writers, was also Earl of Richmond. For certain,Robert de Arth [...]is w [...] not Earl o [...] Richm [...]d (as Fr [...]sardus has [...]) but of [...] lomor [...]. Lib. Fe [...]d. Richm [...] diae. John his younger brother presently after the death of his father, enjoy'd this honour; who added to the ancient Arms of Dreux, with the Canton of Britain, the Lions of England in bordure. He wasCusto [...] Governour of Scotland under Edward the second, where he was kept prisoner three years, and at last dy'd without children in the reign of Edward the third; and John Duke of Britain his Nephew, the son of Arthur, succeeded in this Earldom. He dying without issue, at a time when this Dutchy of Britain was hotlyBetween John de Mont [...]fo [...] and J [...] Clau [...] wife of Charles of Bl [...]is. contended for8, Edward the 3d, to advance his interest in France, gave to John Earl of Montford (who had sworn fealty to him for the Dutchy of Britain) all this Earldom, till such time as he should recover his Lands in France; he seeming preferable to the daughter of his brother deceas'd9, both as he was a man, as he was nearer ally'd, and as he had a better title. His lands being at length regain'd by means of the English, the same King gave it to John of Gaunt his son, who at last restor'd it to the King his father for other Lands in exchange. The King forthwith created John Earl of Montford (the second Duke of Britain, sirnam'd the Valiant, to whom he had married his daughter) Earl of Richmond, that he might oblige him by stronger ties, being a warlike man, and a bitter enemy to the French. Yet by an Act of Parliament in the 14th of King Richard the second, he was deprived of this Earldom, for adhering to the French against the English. However, he retain'd the title, and left it to his posterity. The Earldom it self was given by the King to Joan of Britain his sister, widow of Ralph Basset of Draiton. After her death, first Ralph Nevil Earl of Westmorland, by the bounty of Henry the 4th, had the Castle and County of Richmond for term of Life; and then John Duke of Bedford. Afterwards. Henry the sixth conferr'd the title of Earl of Richmond upon Edmund de Hadham his brother by the mother's side, with this peculiar privilege, That he should take [Page] place in Parliament next the Dukes. To him succeeded Henry his son, afterwards King of England by the name of Henry the seventh. But whilst he was in exile, George Duke of Clarence, and Richard Duke of Glocester, had this County bestow'd upon them by King Edward the fourth their brother. Last of all, Henry, natural son to Henry the eight, was by his father invested Duke of Richmond;Duke of Richmond. but in the year of our Lord 1535. he dy'd without issue10.
There are reckon'd in this County 104 great Parishes, besides Chapels of Ease.
ADDITIONS to the North-Riding, and Richmondshire.
[a] IN the North-riding, the first place our Author speaks of is Scarborough, [...]bo [...]gh. which drives a great trade with fish taken in the Sea thereabout, wherewith they supply the City of York, tho' thirty miles distant. Besides Herings (which he takes notice of) they have Ling, Cod-fish, Haddock, Hake, Whiting, Makrel, with several other sorts, in great plenty. On the North-east it is fortified with a high and inaccessible rock, stretcht out a good way into the Sea, and containing at the top about eighteen or twenty acres of good Meadow; and not near sixty, as Mr. Camden has told us out of Newbrigensis. Whether the difference lye in the several measures of Acres; or the greater part of it be washt away by the Sea; or lastly, may have been caus'd through an error of that Historian; I shall not dispute, since the matter of fact is plain.Wittie's [...]ription [...]carbo [...]gh [...]. The Spaw-well is a quick Spring, about a quarter of a mile South from the Town, at the foot of an exceeding high cliff, arising upright out of the Earth like a boyling pot, near the level of the Spring-tides, with which it is often overflown. It is of that sort of Springs, which Aristotle calls [...], which in the most droughty years are never dry. In an hour, it affords above 24. gallons of water; for the stones through which it flows contain more than 12 gallons, and being empty'd every morning, will be full within half an hour. It's virtue proceeds from a participation of Vitriol, Iron, Alum, Nitre and Salt: to the sight it is very transparent, inclining somewhat to a sky-colour: it hath a pleasant acid taste from the Vitriol, and an inky smell. The right honourable Richard Lumley has from this place his title of Earl of Scarborough.
[b] Upon the same coast is Whitby, [...]itby. not call'd in Saxon Streanes-Heale (as our Author has it) but Streones HalH, as it is in the Saxon Paraphrase of Bede, and also the best Latin Copies. And therefore Mr. Junius in his Gothick Glossary under the word Alh, seems to have hit the true original, when he fetches it from the Saxon hael, hal, or healh (call'd by Caedmon alh) which, as our Northern word Hall still in use, signifies any eminent building. Hence the Pagan God Woden's Valhol (or Valhaul) so frequently mention'd in the Edda, and other old Cimbrian Writers: and Crantzius fetches the name of the City of Upsal from the same original.
[c] As for the Serpent-stones, [...]pent- [...]es. Mr. Nicholson (who has made large observations upon the Natural Rarities of those parts) affirms them to be the same with those the Modern Naturalists call Cornua Ammonis. Whether they be original productions of Nature, or petrify'd Shell-fishes of the Nautilus kind, has been very much controverted by several Learned men on both sides. But he is of opinion, that they are rather spiral petrifications produc'd in the Earth by a sort of fermentation peculiar to Alum-mines. Hence they are plentifully found in the Alum-pits at Rome, Rochel, and Lunenburgh, as well as in those of this Country: and 'tis probale that Keinsham, and other parts of England, where these stones are found, would afford likewise good store of Alum. But a fuller account of those Alums, than hitherto we have had, is to be hop'd for from Mr. Lhwyd, Mr. Beaumont, and Mr. Woodward. The particular method of making it in this place is fully describ'd by Mr. Ray, in hisPag. 201. Collection of English words.
[d] For the Synod held here, our Author had no less authority than theLib. 3. Capp. 25. & 26. Ecclesiastical History of Venerable Bede: but yet neither King Alfred's Paraphrase, nor the Saxon Chronicle mentioning any such thing, makes it a little suspicious. And that the whole matter is really a Fable, is prov'd by Mr. Nicholson in hisPart IV. in Episc. Lindifarn. History of the Kingdom of Northumberland, which will shortly be printed.
This Whitby hath a very fair and commodious Haven. There are about sixty Ships of 80 Tuns or more belonging to the Town.
[e] Since Mr. Camden's time, Moulgrave Moulgrave. in this Riding hath given the honourable title of Earl to Edmund Lord Sheffields of Butterwick, Lord President of the North, and created Earl of this place Febr. 7. in the first year of Charles 1. He was succeeded by Edmund, his grandchild by Sir John Sheffields his second son; to which Edmund, John his son and heir succeeded in this honour.
[f] All along these shores, Mr. Ray observ'd the people very busie in making of Kelp: which they do in this manner. They gather the Sea-wrack, and lay it on heaps; and when 'tis dry, they burn it. While it is burning, they stir it to and fro with an Iron-rake: so it condenses and cakes together into such a body as we see Kelp to be, and is of use in making of Alum. If they should not stir it, it would burn to ashes as other combustible bodies use to do.
[g] The neighbouring tract call'd Cliveland, Cliveland. has since our Author's time given the title of Earl to Thomas Lord Wentworth, created Febr. 7. 1 Car. 1. who dy'd without issue. In the 22th year of Charles the second, the title of Dutchess of Cliveland, during life, was conferr'd upon Barbara Villiers, daughter to the Lord Viscount Grandison.
One could hardly imagine how this name should be taken from Cliffs, when Travellers have observ'd it to be a perfect plain; particularly by a prospect from Roseberry-Toppin. The Soil is exceeding clayie, which has occasion'd this Proverb;
[h] The Abbey-Church of Gisburgh Gisburgh. seems by the ruins to have been comparable to the best Cathedrals in England. The Inhabitants of this place are observ'd by Travellers to be very civil and well bred, cleanly in dressing their diet, and very decent and neat in their houses. Here are two Alum-works, one belonging to the Chaloners, the other to the Darcies; but were both laid aside some years ago. Possibly, Whitby lying more conveniently, and having plenty of the Mine at hand, may have got the trade from them.
[i] Since Mr. Camden's time, Danby Danby. hath afforded the title of Earl to Henry Lord Danvers of Dantsey, created Febr. 7. 1 Car. 1. but he dy'd without issue in the year 1643. In 1674. June 27. this title was conferr'd upon Thomas O [...]born, created before Baron [Page] of Kiveton, and Viscount Latimer, since advanc'd to the dignity of Marquiss of Carmarthen, and lately created Duke of Leeds.
Continuation of the DUKES.
As James 1. created Charles his second son Duke of York, so Charles succeeding his father in the Throne, declared his second son James (afterwards King James 2.) Duke of the same place: whereupon, at his birth he receiv'd that title, but was not created till the 27th of Jan. 1643. being the 19th year of his father's reign.
Cockle-stones.[k] As to the stones like Cockles, mention'd by our Author in Richmondshire, Mr. Nicholson affirms he could never hear of any that were met with lying single and dispers'd, but that plenty of them, as well here as in other places of the North, are found in firm rocks and beds of Lime-stone; sometimes at six or eight fathom within ground. Whence the Miners call them Run-Limestone; they supposing these figures to be produc'd by a more than ordinary heat, and quicker fermentation than they allow to the production of the other parts of the quarry. And this perhaps is as rational an account of these Sports of Nature, as any that our Modern Virtuosi have hitherto pitch'd upon.
[l] Sir Christopher Medcalf might have had a stock of Crey-fish Crey-fish. nearer home; for in the County of Westmorland, the rivers Kent, Lowther, and others, are plentifully stockt with them.
[m] Tho' the name of the old Caturactonium be left in Catarick, yet are the remains of it met with about three flight-shots from the bridge, at a farm-house call'd Thornburgh, standing upon a high ground; where, as well as at Brampton upon Swale on the other side of the river, they have found Roman Coins. Upon the bank of the river (which here is very steep) there are foundations of some great walls, more like a castle than any private building; and the large prospect makes it very convenient for a Frontier-garison. It is credibly reported that almost a hundred years ago, these walls were dug into out of hopes of finding some treasure, and that the work-men at last came to a pair of Iron gates. Overjoy'd at this, and thinking their business done, they go to refresh themselves; but before their return, a great quantity of hanging ground had fall'n in, and the vast labour of removing the rubbish discourag'd them from any further attempt.
The level plot of ground upon the hill adjoyning to the Farm-house, may be about ten acres, in several parts whereof Roman Coins have been plow d up; one particularly of gold with this Inscription, Nero Imp. Caesar. and on the Reverse, Jupiter Custos. Within this compass also, they have met with the bases of old Pilla [...]s, and a floor of brick with a pipe of lead passing perpendicularly down into the earth; which is thought by some to have been a place whe [...]e sacrifice was done to the Infernal Gods, and that the blood descended by those pipes. Likewise in Sir John Lawson's great grandfather's time (to which family the estate came by marriage) as the Servants were plowing, the Plow-share stuck fast in the ear of a great brass-pot; which, upon removing the earth, they observ'd to be cover'd with flat-stones, and upon opening, found it (as 'tis receiv'd from our Ancestors by tradition) to be almost full of Roman Coins, mostly copper, but some of silver. Great quantities have been given away by the Predecessors of Sir John Lawson, and he himself gave a good number to be preserv'd among other Rarities in King Charles's Closet.
The pot was redeem'd at the price of 8 l. from the Sequestrators of Sir John Lawson's estate in the late Civil War, the metal being an unusual sort of composition. It was fixt in a Furnace to brew in, and contains some 24 gallons of water.
Now from all this, why should not we conclude that Thornburrow, belonging to Burgh hall, was the Vicus juxta Catarractam; since Catarick-bridge, and the grounds adjoyning, belong not to Catarick, but to Brough. Upon the South-end of the bridge stands a little Chapel of stone, where tradition says that formerly Mass was said every day at eleven a clock, for the Benefit of Travellers that would stay and hear it.
[n] The Oath of Allegiance taken by the Nobility of Northumberland to Eldred, is by our Author referr'd to Topcliffe or Tadencliffe, upon the authority of Marianus. ButH [...] [...] Ingulfus, who had better opportunities than Marianus to know that matter, says the business was dispatch'd by Chancellor Turketyl at York.
Continuation of the DUKES of RICHMOND.
Next after Henry-Fitz-Roy, Lodowick, Duke of Leonox, was created Earl of Richmond, 11 Jac. 1. Oct. 6. and afterwards in 1623. Duke of Richmond. After him, James Stewart, Duke of Lennox and Earl of March, was created Duke of Richmond by Charles the first, Aug. 8. and was succeeded by his son Esme; who dying young in the year 1660. was succeeded by Charles Earl of Lichfield his Cousin-german. Which said Charles dying without issue, Charles Lenos natural son to King Charles the second, was created Aug. 9. 1675. Baron of Setrington, Earl of March, and Duke of Richmond.
More rare Plants growing wild in Yorkshire.
Allium montanum bicorne purpureum proliserum. Purple-flower'd mountain Garlick. On the scars of the Mountains near Settle. See the description of it in Synopsis method. stirpium Britannicarum.
Alsine pusilla pulchro flore, folio tenuissimo nostras. Small fine Mountain-chickweed with a milk-white flower. In the Mountains about Settle plentifully.
Bifolium minimum J. B. Ophris minima C.B. The least Twayblade. On the Heaths and Moors among the Furze in many places. As on Blakay-moor in the way to Gisburgh near Scaling-damm, and in the Moor near Almondbury.
Calceolus Mariae Ger. Damasonii species quibusdam seu Calceolus D. Mariae J. B. Elleborine major seu Calceolus Mariae Park. Ladies slipper. At the end of Helks-wood near Ingleborough.
Campanula cymbalaria foliis. Ger. Park. Tender Ivy-leav d Bell-flower. I have observed it in watery places about Sheffield.
Cannabis spuria flore luteo amplo, labio purpureo. Fair-flower'd Nettle-hemp. In the mountainous parts of this Country, among the Corn plentifully.
Carum seu Careum Ger. Carum vulgare Park. Caraways. In the pastures about Hull plentifully, so that they gather the Seed there for the use of the shops.
Caryophyllata montana purpurea Ger. emac. montana seu palustris purpurea Park. aquatica nutante flore C. B. aquatica, flore rubro striato J. B. Purple-Avens. In the Mountains near the Rivulets and Water-courses about Settle, Ingleborough, and other places in the West and North-ridings of this County. Mr. Lawson hath observed this with three or four rows of leaves in the flower.
Caryophyllus marinus minimus Ger. montanus minor C. B. Thrift or Sea-Gillyflower. Mr. Lawson found this in Bleaberry-gill at the head of Stockdale-fields not far from Settle: so that it may not improperly be call'd mountainous as well as maritime.
Cerasus avium nigra & racemosa Ger. racemosa fructu non eduli C. B. avium racemosa Park. racemosa quibusdam, aliis Padus J. B. The Wild-cluster-cherry, or Birds-cherry. In the mountainous parts of the West-riding of this County.
Christophoriana Ger. vulgaris Park. Aconitum racemosum, Actaea quibusdam J. B. racemosum, an Actaea Plinii l. 27 c. 7. C. B. Herb-Christopher or Bane-berries. In Haselwood-woods near Sir Walter Vavasor's Park pale: also among the Shrubs by Malham-Cave.
Cirsium Britannicum repens Clusii J.B. aliud Anglicum Park. singulari capitulo squamato, vel incanum alterum C.B. The great English soft or gentle Thistle, [Page 769-770] or Melancholy Thistle. In the Mountains about Ingleborough and elsewhere in the West-riding of Yorkshire.
Cochlearia rotundifolia Ger. folio subrotundo C.B. Common round leav'd Scurvy-grass. This, tho' it usually be accounted a Sea-plant, yet we found it growing plentifully upon Stanemore near the Spittle; and upon Penigent and Ingleborough-hills; in which places, by reason of the coldness of the air it is so little, that it hath been taken for a distinct Species, and call'd Cochlearia minor rotundisolia; but its Seed being taken and sown in a warm Garden, it soon confesses its Species, growing to the dimensions of the common Garden Scurvy-grass.
Conyza Helenitis foliis laciniatis. Jagged-leav'd Fleabane-mullet. About a stones-cast from the East-end of Shirley-Pool near Rushy moor. P. B. This hath been already mention'd in several Counties.
Erica baccifera procumbens nigra C. B. Black-berried heath, Crow-berries, or Crake-berrìes. On the boggy mountains or moors plentifully.
Fucus sive Alga tinctoria P. B. Diers wrack. It is often cast on the shore near Bridlington.
Fungus piperatus albus, lacteo succo turgens C. B. Pepper-Mushrome with a milky juyce. Found by Dr. Lister in Marton woods under Pinno-moor in Craven plentifully.
Geranium batrachioides montanum nostras. An batrachiodes minus seu alterum Clus. hist.? batrachoides minus Park.? batrachiodes folio Aconiti C. B.? batrach. aliud folio Aconiti nitente Clusii J. B.? Mountain Crowfoot-Cranesbill. In the mountainous meadows and bushets in the West-Riding.
G. Geranium moschatum Ger. Park. Musked Cranes-bill, commonly called Musk or Muscovy. It is to be found growing common in Craven. Dr. Lister is my Author.
C. Gnaphalium montanum album sive Pes cati. Mountain-Cudweed or Cats-foot. Upon Ingleborough and other hills in the West-Riding: also in Scosby-leas near Doncaster.
Helleborine foliis longis augustis acutis. Bastard Hellebore with long narrow sharp pointed leaves. Under Bracken-brow near Ingleton. At the end of a wood near Ingleborough, where the Calceolus Mariae grows.
Helleborine altera atro-rubente flore C. B. Elleborine flore atro-rubente Park. Bastard Hellebore with a blackish flower. In the sides of the mountains near Malham, four miles from Settle plentifully; especially at a place called Cordil or the Whern.
Hieracium montanum Cichorei folio nostras. An Hieracium Britannicum Clus. Succory-leaved mountain Hawkweed. In moist and boggy places in some woods about Burnley.
Hordeum polystichon J. B. polystichon hybernum C. B. polystichon vel hybernum Park. Winter or square Barley, or Bear-barley, called in the North country Big. This endures the winter, and is not so tender as the common Barley; and is therefore sown instead of it in the mountainous part of this country, and all the North over.
M. Lilium convallium Ger. Lilly convally or Maylilly. On Ingleborough and other hills.
Lunaria minor Ger. Park. botrytis J. B. racemosa minor vel vulgaris C. B. Moonwort. Though this grows somewhere or other in most Counties of England; yet have I not found it any where in that plenty, and so rank and large, as on the tops of some mountains near Settle.
Lysimachia Chamaenerion dicta latifolia C. B. Chamaenerion Ger. Chamaenerion flore Delphinii Park. minùs recté. Rose-bay. Willow-herb. In the meadows near Sheffield, and in divers other places.
Lysimachia lutea flore globoso Ger. Park. bifolia flore globoso luteo C. B. altera lutea Lobelii, flore quasi spicato J. B. Yellow loose strife, with a globular spike or tuft of flowers. Found by Mr. Dodsworth in the East-Riding of this County.
M. Muscus clavatus sive Lycopodium Ger. Park. Club-moss or Wolfs-claw.
Muscus clavatus foliis Cupressi C. B. Ger. emac. clavatus cupressiformis Park. terrestris ramosus pulcher J. B. Sabina sylvestris Trag. Selaginis Plinianae prima species Thal. Cypress moss or Heath-cypress.
Muscus terrestris repens, clavis singularibus foliosis erectis. Smaller creeping Club-moss with erect heads.
Muscus erectus Abietiformis nobis. terrestris rectus J. B. Selago 3. Thalii. Upright fir-moss.
Muscus terrestris rectus minor polyspermos. Seeding mountain mosse. All these sorts are found upon Ingleborough hill. The last about springs and watery places. The first and third are common to most of the moores and fells in the north of England.
Ornithogalum luteum C. B. Park. luteum seu Cepe agraria Ger. Bulbus sylvestris Fuchsii flore luteo, seu Ornithogalum luteum J. B. Yellow Star of Bethlehem. In the woods in the northern part of Yorkshire by the Tees side, near Greta bridge and Brignall.
Pentaphylloides fructicosa Shrub-Cinquefoil. On the south bank of the river Tees below a village called Thorp: as also below Eggleston Abbey. At Mickle Force in Teesdale there are thousands of these plants.
Pentaphyllum parvum hirsutum J. B. Small rough Cinquefoil. In the pastures about Kippax, a village three miles distant from Pontefraict.
Pyrola Ger. J. B. nostras vulgaris Park. Common Winter-green. We found it near Halifax, by the way leading to Kighley; but most plentifully on the moors south of Heptenstall in the way to Burnley for near a mile's riding.
Pyrola folio mucronato serrato C. B. serrato J. B. tenerior Park. Secunda tenerior Clusii Ger. Sharp-pointed Winter-green with serrate leaves. In Haselwood-woods near Sir Walter Vavasor's park.
Polygonatum floribus ex singularibus pediculis J. B. latifolium flore majore odoro C. B. majus flore majore Park. latifolium 2. Clusii Ger. Sweet smelling Solomon's seal, with flowers on single foot-stalks. On the ledges of the scars or cliffs near Settle and Wharf.
Primula veris flore rubro Ger. Clus. Paralysis minor flore rubro Park-parad. Verbasculum umbellatum Alpinum minus C. B Birds-eyn. In the mountainous meadows about Ingleborough and elsewhere in moist and watery places.
Pyrola Alsines flore Europaea C. B. Park. Herba trientalis J. B. Winter green with Chickweed flowers. At the east end of Rumbles-mear near Helwick.
Pyrola Alsines flore Brasiliana C. B. prod. Winter green Chickweed of Brasil. Found near Gisburgh in Cleveland, as was attested to me by Mr. Lawson.
Ranunculus globosus Ger. Park. parad. flore globoso, quibusdam Trollius flos J. B. montanus Aconiti folio, flore globoso C. B. Indeed it ought rather to be entitled an Aconite or Wolfsbane with a Crowfoot flower. The Globe-flower or Locker gowlons. In the mountainous meadows, and by the sides of the mountains and near water-courses plentifully.
Ribes vulgaris fructu rubro Ger. vulgaris acidus ruber J. B. fructu rubro Park. Grossularia sylvestris rubra C. B. Red Currans. In the woods in the northern part of this County, about Greta-bridge, &c.
Ribes Alpinus dulcis J. B. Sweet Mountain-Currans. Found in this County by Mr. Dodsworth.
Rhodia radix omnium Autorum. Telephium roseum rectius. Rosewort. On the rocks on the north-side of Ingleborough hill plentifully.
Rosa sylvestris pomifera major nostras. Rosa pomifera major Park. parad. The greater English Apple-Rose. In the mountainous parts of this County it is very frequent.
Rosmarinum sylvestre minus nostras Park. Ledum palustre potiùs dicendum. Wild Rosemary or Marsh Holy Rose. On Mosses and moorish grounds.
Rubus saxatilis Ger. Alpinus saxatilis Park. Alpinus humilis J. B. Chamaerubus saxatilis C. B. The stone-Bramble or Raspis. On the sides of Ingleborough hill, and other hills in the West-Riding.
Salix folio laureo seu lato glabro odorato. Bay-leav'd sweet Willow. In the mountainous parts of the West-Riding, by the rivers and rivulets.
Salix pumila montana folio rotundo J. B. Round-leaved mountainous dwarf Willow. On the rocks upon the top of Ingleborough hill, on the north-side: and on an hill called Whernside over against Ingleborough on the other side of the subterraneous river.
Sedum Alpinum ericoides caeruleum C. B. J. B. Mountain Sengreen with Heath-like leaves, and large purple flowers. On the uppermost rocks on the north-side of Ingleborough.
Sedum minus Alpinum luteum nostras. Small yellow mountain-Sengreen. On the sides of Ingleborough-hill about the rivers and springing waters on the north-side of the hill plentifully.
Sedum Alpinum trifido folio C. B. Alpinum laciniatis Ajugae foliis Park. Sedis affinis trisulca Alpina flore albo J. B. Small mountain-Sengreen with jagged leaves. On Ingleborough and many other hills in the north part of this County.
Sedum purpureum pratense J. B. minus palustre Ger arvense seu palustre flore rubente Park. palustre subhirsutum purpureum C. B. Small Marsh-Sengreen. On the moist Rocks about Ingleborough-hill, as you go from the hill to Horton in Ribbles-dale in a ground where Peat is got in great plenty.
Sideritis arvensis latifolia hirsuta flore luteo. Broad-leav'd rough Field-Ironwort with a large flower In the West-riding of Yorkshire about Sheffield, Darfield, Wakefield, &c. among the Corn plentifully.
Trachelium majus Belgarum. Giant Throatwort. Every where among the Mountains.
Thalictrum minus Ger. Park. C. B. The lesser Meadow-rue. Nothing more common on the Rocks about Malham and Wharfe.
Thlaspi foliis Globulariae J. B. montanum Glasti folio minus Park. C. B. opp. In the mountainous pastures going from Settle to Malham, plentifully.
Thlaspi vel potiùs Leucoium sive Lunaria vasculo sublongo intorto. Lunar Violet with an oblong wreathen cod. On the sides of the Mountains, Ingleborough and Hinckel-haugh, in moist places, and where waters spring.
Vaccinia Nubis Ger. Chamaemorus Clus. Anglica Park. item Cambro-britannica ejusdem. Rubo Idaeo minori affinis Chamaemorus J. B. Chamaemorus folio Ribes Anglica C. B. Cloud-berries, Knot-berries, or Knout-berries. This I found plentifully growing and bearing fruit on Hinckel-haugh near Settle. I have found it also in Ingleborough and Pendle hills, but not in flower and fruit. Both Gerard and Parkinson make two Plants of it.
Valeriana Graeca Ger. Park. Graeca quorundam, colore caeruleo & albo J. B. caerulea C. B. Greek Valerian, which the vulgar call Ladder to Heaven, and Jacob's Ladder. Found by Dr. Lister in Carleton beck in the falling of it into the river Are: but more plentifully both with a blue flower and a white about Malham-cove, in the Wood on the left hand of the water as you go to the Cove plentifully, as also at Cordill or the Whern, a remarkable Cove, where there comes out a great stream of water near the said Malham.
To these I shall add a Plant, which tho' perchance it be not originally native of this County, yet is planted and cultivated in large Gardens at Pontefraict for sale; and hath been taken notic of by Camden and Speed; that is,
Glycyrrhiza vulgaris Ger. emac. vulg. siliquosa Park. siliquosa vel Germanica C. B. radice repente, vulgaris Germanica J. B. Common Liquorice. The quality of this Plant in taking away the sence of hunger and thirst, we have taken notice of in Cambridgeshire-Catalogue.
The BISHOPRICK of DƲRHAM.
THE Bishoprick of Durham or Duresme, bordering upon Yorkshire on the North, is shap d like a Triangle; the utmost Angle whereof lies to the Westward, made there by a contact of the North boundary and the Tees's head. That side of it towards the South is bounded all along by the course of the river Tees. The other which lyes Northward, is at first mark'd out by a short line from the outmost point to the river Derwent, and thence by the Derwent it self, until it receives the little river Chopwell; and after that by the river Tine. The basis of this triangle which lyes Eastward, is made by the Sea-shore, which is wash'd by the German Ocean with great rage and violence.
In that part where it contracts it self into an angle, the fields are naked, the woods very thin, and the hills bald, but not without veins of Iron in them; but the vales produce grass pretty well: for the Appennine of England, which I have already spoke of, cuts it at this angle. But on the East part, or the basis of this triangle, as also at the sides of it, the ground is made very f uitful by tillage, and the return of it answerable to the pains of the husbandman; being enamell'd with Meadows, Pastures, and Corn-fields, thick set with Towns in all parts of it, and very productive of Sea-coal, which we use for fewel in many places. Some would have this Sea-coal to be a black earthy bitumen, others to be Jeat, and others the Lapis Thracius; Sea-coal. all which that great Master of Mineral learning, Georgius Agricola, proves to be the very same. For certain, this of ours is nothing but bitumen harden'd and concocted by heat under ground; for it casts the same smell that bitumen does; and if water be sprinkled on it, it burns the hotter and the clearer; but whether or no it is quench'd with oyl, I have not yet try'd. If the Lapis Obsidianus be in England, I should take it for that which is found in other parts of this Kingdom, and commonly goes by the name of Canole Coal: for that is hard, shining, light, and apt to cleave into thin flakes, and to burn out as soon as it is kindled. But let us leave these points to men that pry into the secrets of nature more narrowly.
This whole County, with others that border upon it, is call'd by the Monkish Writers The Land of St. Cuthbert, or his Patrimony. St. Cuthbert's Patrimony. For so they nam'd all that belong'd to the Church of Durham, of which Cuthbert was in a manner, Patron; who in the very infancy of the Saxon Church was Bishop of Lindefarne, and liv'd in such holiness and integrity, that he was kalendar'd for a Saint. And our Kings and Noblemen (believing him to be a Guardian Saint to them against the Scots) have not only gone often in pilgrimage to his Body, which continu'd entire and uncorrupted, as Writers would perswade us; but also endow'd [the Church] with very great possessions, and many immunities. King Egfrid gave large Revenues in the very City of York, and also Creca, which I have spoke of, and the City Luguballia, to Cuthbert himself in his life time, as it is in the History of Durham [a]. King Alfred, and Guthrun the Dane (whom he set over the Northumbrians [b]) afterwards gave all the Land between the river Were and the Tine (these are the words of an old Book) to Cuthbert, and to those that should minister in that Church, for ever; by which they might have sufficient to live upon, and not be forc'd to struggle with want and necessity: moreover, they made his Church an Asylum or Sanctuary for all that fled to it, so that whosoever upon any account should fly to his Body, should have peace there for thirty seven days, and be inviolable upon any pretence whatsoever. King Edward and Athelstan, and Cnuto or Canutus the Dane, who went barefoot to Cuthbert's Tomb, not only confirm'd these Laws and Liberties, but also encreased them. Nor did King William the Conquerour less encourage them, from whose time it was reckon'd a County Palatine;A Coun [...] Palatine. and some of the Bishops, as Counts Palatines, have bore in their Seals a Knight arm'd, sitting upon a horse with trappings, with one hand brandishing a Sword, and in the other holding out the Arms of the Bishoprick. The Bishops have also had their Royalties, so that the Goods of Outlaws were forfeited to them, and not to the King; nay the common people, insisting upon privilege, have refus'd to war in Scotland under the King. For they pleaded (these are the words of the History of Durham) that they were Haliwerke folkes, i. bound to do nothing but holy works; that they held their Lands to defend the body of St. Cuthbert, and that they ought not to march out of the confines of their Bishoprick, namely beyond the Tine and the Tees, either for the King, or for the Bishop. But Edward the first abridg'd them of these Liberties. For he voluntarily [Page]
[Page] [Page 773-774] interposing himself as mediator between Anthony Bec Bishop, and the Prior, who were then sharply contesting with one another about certain Lands, and at last would not stand to his determination, seized (as my Author says) the Liberty of the Bishoprick into his own hands, and then made enquiry into many things about them, and abridg'd their privileges in many particulars. However, the Church recover'd its Rights afterwards, and held them without diminution, till Edw. the sixth's time; to whom (that Bishoprick being dissolv'd) the Parliament gave all the Revenues and the Immunities of that See. But immediately after, Queen Mary had this Act of Parliament repeal'd, and restor'd all safe and sound to the Church again; which it enjoys at this day. For lately James Pilkington the Bishop commenc'd a suit with Queen Elizabeth for the Lands and Goods of Charles Nevill Earl of Westmorland, and other out laws in this County, who had been in actual rebellion against their Country; and had prosecuted this suit, if the Parliament had not interposed, and for that time adjudg'd it to the Queen, in consideration of the great charge she had been at in rescuing both the Bishop and the Bishoprick from the rebels; as the words run. But to leave these matters, let us now proceed to the description of places [c].
[...]ees. [...]is.The river that bounds the South part of this County, is call'd by the Latins Teisis and Teisa, commonly Tees; by Polydore an Italian (who was certainly then thinking of Athesis in his own Country) without any grounds Athesis; by Ptolemy it seems to be call'da ΤΟΥΑΣΙΣ and Tuesis: yet I am of opinion, that by the heedlessness of Transcribers it is misplac'd in him. For whereas he makes the Tuesis or Tina to be in [...]he remoter parts of Britain, now inhabited by the Scots; and the Tesis or Tina is the boundary to this County: if I durst criticise upon this ancient Geographer, I would recall it back hither to its proper place, and that as I hope without offence to the Scots, who have no rivers, to which they can rightly apply these names. The Tees rises in that stony ground call'd Stanemore, and with the many currents which joyn it on both sides, flows through rocks, out of which at Egleston (where C. Earl of Britain and Richmond built a Monastery) they hew Marble; and first it runs by Bernard-castle, [...]ernard- [...]astle. built by Bernard Balliol, great grand-father to John Balliol King of Scots, and denominated from him. But John Balliol, whom Edward the first had declar'd King of Scots, lost this, with other possessions in England, for falling from the Allegiance he had sworn to King Edward. At which time, the King, being displeas'd with Anthony Bishop of Durham (as the History of that place tells us) took this Castle with all its appurtenances from him, and conferr'd it upon the Earl of Warwick. Herks and Hertnes he bestow'd upon Robert Clifford, Kewerston upon Galfrid de Hertlpole, which the Bishop had, as forfeited by J. de Balliol, R. de Brus, and Christopher de Seton. But some few years after, Ludovicus de Bellomonte the Bishop, descended from the Royal Line of France (who, as it is written of him, was but ignorant, and a meer stranger to matters of Learning) went to law for this Castle and other Possessions, and carry'd the Cause, Sentence being given in these words, The Bishop of Durham ought to have the forfeitures in war within the liberties of his Bishoprick, as the King has them without. Near this stands Stretlham, Stretlham. for a long time the Seat of the famous and knightly family of the Bowes B [...]es. or De Arcubus, who have often done great service to their King and Country in times of extremity. Their pedigree is from W. de Arcubus, to whom (as I have read) Alanus Niger Earl of Britain and Richmond gave it in these words, that he should bear for his Arms the Scutcheon of Britain with three bent Bowes in it.
At less than five miles distance from hence, and somewhat farther from the Tees, is Standrope Standrope. (which is also call'd Stainthorp, that is to say, A stony village) a small market-town, where stood a Collegiate Church built by the Nevills, which was a burial-place to them. Bordering upon this, stands Rabye, Rabye-castle. which King Cnute or Canutus the Dane gave to the Church of Durham, with the Land about it, and Stanthorpe, to have and to hold freely for ever. From which time (as my Author has it) the family of the Nevils, The Family of the Nevills. or de Nova villa, have held Rabye of the Church by a rent of 4 l. and a Stagg yearly. For this Family is descended from Waltheof Earl of Northumberland; of whose Posterity, Robert the Son of Malredus, Lord of Rabye, having marry'd the daughter of Galfred Nevill the Norman (whose grandfather Gilbert Nevill, is said to have been Admiral to King William the first) their Posterity then took the name of Nevill, and grew up to a considerable and very numerous family: they built here a Castle of no small compass, which was their principal and chief Seatb. These two places, Stainthorpe and Rabye, are only sunder d by a little river; which after some few miles falls into the Tees near Selaby, Selaby. where the Seat of the family of the Brakenburys now is, eminent for their antiquity and marriages with the heirs of Denton and Witcliff [d].
The Tees flowing from hence by Sockburne, the house of that ancient and noble family the Cogniers, from whom are descended the Barons Coigniers Barons Cogniers. of Hornby (whose estate being much enlarg d by marriages with the heirs of Darcy of Menill, and of William Nevill Earl of Kent and Lord Fauconberg, went in the last age to the Atherstons and the Darcys,) runs near Derlington, Derlington. a throng market-town, which Seir a Saxon, the son of Ulphus, with King Etheldred's leave, gave to the Church of Durham; and Hugh de Puteaco or Pudsey adorn'd it with a Church and other Buildings [e]. In a field belonging to this place, there are three Wells of great depth, commonly call'd Hell-kettles, Hell-kettles or the Kettles of Hell, because the water by an Antiperistasis, or reverberation of the cold Air, is hot in them. Men of better sence and discretion think them to have been sunk by an Earth-quake; and indeed not improbably. For we find in the Chronicle of Tinmouth, That in the year of our Lord 1179. upon Christmas-day, at Oxenhall in the out fields of Darlington in the Bishoprick of Durham, the Earth rais'd it self up to a great height in manner of a lofty tower, and remain'd all that day till the evening (as it were, fixed and unmoveable) in that posture; but then it sunk down again with such a horrid noise, that it terrified all the neighbours; and the Earth suck'd it in, and made there a deep pit, which continues as a testimony to this day. That there are subterraneous passages in these pits, and a way out of them, was first discover'd by Cuthbert Tunstall the Bishop,c who found a Goose in the Tees which he had mark'd, and put into the greater of them for an experiment [f]. From Derlington, the Tees has no eminent Towns upon it:Those Gentlemen call'd Sur-Teis (i e. upon the Tees) formerly flourish'd upon it. so winding on by green fields and country villages, it falls at last from a large mouth into the Ocean, where begins the basis of this triangle towards the Sea-coast.
The shore runs hence northward, being interrupted only with one or two brooks near Gretham, Gretham. where Robert Bishop of Durham built a good Hospital; the manour of this being bestow'd upon him by the Lord of it Peter de Montfort. Next it, stands Claxton, that gives name to a famous family in these parts; which I the rather take notice of, because T. Claxton, a great admirer of venerable antiquity, was a branch of it. From hence the shore starts out in a little promontory only at one place (scarce seven miles above the mouth of the river Tees;) upon which stands Hartlepole, a famous market, and under it a safe harbour, well situated. Bede seems to call it Heortu, (which Huntingdon renders Cervi insula,) and tells us that Heiu, a religious woman, formerly built a monastery there; if Heorteu be not rather the name of that small territory, as the Durham book intimates, and in some places calls it Heortnesse, because it shoots out pretty [Page] far into the sea. From this place, for fifteen miles together, the shore, with some towns here and there on it, affords an entertaining prospect to those that sail by, and continues uninterrupted till it opens a passage for the river Vedra; Vedra. for so it is call'd by Ptolemy; but in Bede Wirus, in Saxon Weorg, and by us now Were. Were. This river rises in the very angle of the triangle (namely, in the utmost part of the County to the westward) from two small streams Kellhop and Burnhop; which uniting into one current, take this name and run swiftly to the eastward through vast heaths, and large parks belonging to the Bishop; and by Witton, Witton. a castle of the Lords d'Evers, Barons Euers or de Eure. who are of ancient note and eminence in this County; as being descended from the Lords of Clavering and Warkworth, as also by daughters from the Vescies and the Attons Barons, famous for their warlike gallantry, as Scotland can plainly shew us. For Kettnes, a little town in the farthest parts of Scotland, was bestow'd upon them by K. Edw. 1. for their great service; and in the last age Henry 8. dignified them with the title of Barons. After this, the Were, some few miles lower, receives Gaunless, a little river from the south: where, at the very confluence upon a little hill, stands Aukland, Aukland. so nam'd (as Sarron in Greece was) from the caks; where we see a fair-built house of the Bishops with turrets, as it now stands repair'd by Anthony Bec; and a very fine bridge, built by Walter Skirlaw the Bishop about the year 1400, who then also enlarg'd this house, and made a bridge over the Tees at Yarum [g]. From hence the Were goes northward, that it may continue the longer in this County, and soon comes within sight of the reliques of an old City seated upon the top of a hill, which is not in being at this day, but dead and gone many years ago; call'd by Antoninus Vinovium, Vinovium. by Ptolemy Binovium; Finchester. in which Author it is so misplac'd, and as it were seated under another pole, that I could never have discover'd it, but by Antoninus's direction. At present it is call'd by us Binchester, and consists of about one or two houses only; yet much took notice of by the neighbours thereabouts upon the account of the rubbish and the ruins of walls yet extant, and also for the Roman coins often dug up in it, which they call Binchester-penies; and for Roman Inscriptions, one of which cut out thus in an Altar there, I lately met with.
MATRIB. Q. LO —
CL. QVIN
TIANVS — COS
V. S. L. M.
Another stone was lately dug up here very much defac'd with gaps; which yet upon a narrow view shews this Inscription: ‘—
—
TRIB. COHOR. I.
CARTOV —
MARTI VICTORI
GENIO LOCI.
ET BONO
EVENTVI.’
I have read nothing else relating to it, but what is mention'd in an old book, That the Earls of Northumberland tore this, with other villages, from the Church; when that cursed lust after gold swallow'd up the sacred revenues of the Church.
On the other side of the Were, among the hills, we see Branspeth-castle, Branspeth-castle. built by the Bulmers; and by a daughter of Bernard Bulmer (marry'd to Galfrid Nevill) added with other great possessions to the family of the Nevills [h]. A little lower, the Were has many huge stones in the chanel of it, never cover'd but when the river is overflow'd by rain: upon these if you pour water, and it mix and temper a while upon the stone, it becomes thereupon saltish; a thing to be effected no where else. Nay, at Butterby a little village, when the river is shallow and fallen from those stones in the summer time,Salt stones. there bursts out of them a reddish salt water, which grows so white and hard by the heat of the sun, that they who live thereabouts, take it up, and use it for salt.
Now the river, as if it design'd to make an island, goes almost quite round the chief city of this County, seated on a hill: upon which account it was call'd Dunholm by the Saxons.Dunhol [...] Durha [...] or D [...] For, as we may infer from Bede, they call'd a hill Dun, and a River Island holme. From hence the Latins call it Dunelm [...]m; but the common name is very corruptly Durham. The town stands high, and is very strong; but is of no great compass, lying in a kind of oval form, enclos'd quite round by the river except on the north part, and fortify'd with walls besides. In the south part, almost where the river winds it self back again, stands the Cathedral Church, which with its spires and tower-steeple makes a fine show. In the heart of the town stands the castle, almost in the middle between two stone bridges, the one upon the river on the east side, the other on the west. From the castle northward lies the market-place and S. Nicholas's Church, from whence there shoots out a suburbs to the north-east for a good way, within a winding of the river; as likewise others on both sides beyond the river, leading towards the bridges: each of which has its particular and distinct Church. The original of this town is not very ancient. For when the Monks of Lindisfarn were disquieted in the Danish wars, and forc'd by that people to wander up and down with the reliques of S. Cuthbert; at last (if we may believe it) being admonish'd by an oracle, they fix'd and settl'd here about the year of Christ 995. But take this relation from my Durham-Author himself. All the people following the corps of our most holy father Cuthbert, came to Durham a place strong by nature, and scarce habitable, enclos'd quite round with a very thick wood; and in the middle only a small plain, which they us'd to plough up and sow: where Bishop Aldwin afterwards built a pretty large Church of stone. The said Prelate therefore, with the help of all the people, and the assistance of Uthred Earl of the Northumbrians, fell'd and grubb'd up all this wood, and in a short time made the place habitable. Lastly, from the river Coqued to the very Tees, there was no body but came in readily both to help forward this work, and also afterwards to build the Church: and till it was finish'd, ceas'd not with great zeal to follow it. The wood being thus routed up, and every one, as his lot fell, having a house assign'd him, the aforesaid Bishop, out of zeal to Christ and S. Cuthbert, began to build a handsome pretty large Church, and endeavour'd with great application to finish it. Thus far my Author [i].
Not many years after, those of the English who could not endure the Norman Empire, trusting to the strength of this place, made it the seat of war, and gave William the Conquerour no small disturbance from it. For Guilielmus Gemeticensis writes, That they went into a part of the County inaccessible by reason of woods and waters, building a castle with a strong rampire round it, which they call'd Dunholm. Out of this they made frequent sallies, and kept themselves close there, waiting for King Sueno the Dane's coming. But things not happening as they had expected, they took themselves to flight; and William the Conquerour coming to Durham, granted many privileges to secure and confirm the liberties of the Church, and built the castle already mention'd upon a higher part of the hill, which afterwards became a habitation for the Bishops; and the Keys of it, when that See was vacant, by an old custom were wont to be hung upon St. Cuthbert's Sepulcher.
When this castle was new built, William of Malmesbury, who liv'd about that time, gives us this description of the City: Durham is a hill rising by little and little from one plain of the valley by an easie and slow ascent to the very top; and notwithstanding by its rugged situation and craggy precipices, the access to it be cut off on all sides, yet lately they have built a castle upon the hill. At the very foot and bottom of the castle, runs an excellent river for fish, especially Salmon. Almost at the same time, as that old book has it, William de Carelepho the Bishop, who resettled Monks here (for their Cloisters had been every where subverted by the [Page] Danes) having pull'd down that Church, which Aldwin had built, began another more stately, which was finish'd by Radulph his successor, and enlarg'd with other buildings by Nicholas Fernham the Bishop, and Thomas Melscomb the Prior, in the year 1242. A pretty while after that, William Skirlaw the Bishop rais'd a neat building on the west part of the Church which they call Gallilee, [...] whither they transferr'd the marble tomb of Venerable Bede. In which place Hugh de Puteaco formerly began a piece of building; where Women (these are the words of an old book) might lawfully enter; and those who might not personally take a view of the secrets of the holy places, might nevertheless have some comfort from the view and contemplation of the Saints. This same Bishop Ralph (as our Historian relates) converted all that space of ground between the Church and the Castle (where many houses stood) into a plain field, lest the Church should either be defil'd by the dirt, or endanger'd by the fire of the town. And although the city be naturally strong; yet he increas'd both the strength and state of it by a wall: for he built one all along from the Chancel of the Church to the tower of the castle; which now begins by degrees to fall under the weight of age; but never, that I know of, bore the brunt of an enemy. For when David Brus King of Scots destroy'd all with fire and sword as far as Beaupark or Berepark [...]epark. (which is a Park just under the city) whilst Edward 3. [...]346. was at the siege of Calis in France; [...] Henry Percy and William Zouch Archbishop of York, with such troops as they could raise on a sudden, encounter'd the Scots, and charg'd them with that heat and bravery, that they almost cut off the first and second battalions to a man, took the King prisoner, and put the third into such consternation, that they fled with all the haste they could make; their fear carrying them over the deepest precipices, till they got again into their own country. This was a remarkable engagement, and to be reckon'd among the many bloody defeats we have given the Scots; call'd by us The Battel of Nevill Cross. For the greatest of the Scotch Nobility being slain here, and the King himself taken, they were forc'd to part with much ground hereabouts, and yield up many Castles into our hands. And this may suffice for Durham; to which, with the Reader's leave, I will add a distich of Necham's, and an Hexastich of Jonston's, and so conclude:
As for the Monks being turn'd out, and twelve Prebendaries with two Archdeacons substituted in lieu of them; as for the Prior's also being chang'd into a Dean: I have nothing to say to them. These are things sufficiently known to every body1. It stands in 22 degr. of Longitude, and in 54 degr. 57 min. of Latitude.
Beneath Durham (not to omit this) there stands eastward a very noble Hospital, [...] founded by Hugh * Pudsey (an extraordinary rich Bishop, and for some time Earl of Northumberland) for Lepers: and (as Newbrigensis has it) with great cost and expence, yet upon some accounts not very honourable: For to advance this charitable design, he made use of his power to extort from other men, when he was not willing to allow enough of his own to that work. However, he settled a very good allowance for maintaining sixty five Lepers, besides Mass-priests.
From hence the Were is carry'd in a streighter course towards the north, by Finchale, Fin hale. where in the reign of Henry 2. Godricus a man of ancient and Christian simplicity, and wholly intent upon God and Religion, led and ended a solitary life; and was here buried in the same place, where (as William of Newburrow says) he was wont in a fit of devotion to prostrate himself, or to lye down in a fit of sickness. This man grew into such admiration for this holy simplicity of his, that R. brother to that rich Bishop Hugh Pudsey, built aEcclesiola. Chapel to his memory [k]. Hence the Were runs by Lumley, Lumley. a castle with a Park quite round it, the ancient seat of the Lumleys, Barons Lumley. who are descended from Liulphus (a man of great Nobility in these parts in Edward the Confessor's time) who married Aldgitha the daughter of Aldred Earl of Northumberland. Of these, Marmaduke took his mother's Coat of Arms; in whose right he came to the rich inheritance of the Thwengs. The Arms were, In a field argent a fess Gules between three Poppinjays Vert; whereas the Lumleys before that bore for their Arms, Six Poppinjays argent in a field Gules. For she was the eldest daughter of Marmaduke Thweng Lord of Kilton, and coheir to Thomas Thweng her brother. But Ralph the son of this Marmaduke, was made the first Baron of Lumley by Richard 2. Which honour, John, the ninth from him, enjoys at this day; a man of accomplish'd virtue and integrity, and now, in his old age, most honourable for all the ornaments of true nobility,
Opposite to this, and not far from the river on the other side, stands Chester upon the street, Chester upon the street. that is, a castle or little city by the highway; call'd in Saxon Concesterd: for which reason I have thought it the Condercum, Condercum where, upon the line of the Vallum, the first wing of the Astures kept garrison in the Roman times, as the Notitia tells us. For it is but some few miles distant from the Vallum; of which I shall treat hereafter. The Bishops of Lindifarn liv'd retiredly here for 113 years with the body of S. Cuthbert, in the time of the Danish wars. In memory of which, whilst Egelric Bishop of Durham was laying the foundation of a new Church there, he digg'd up such a prodigious sum of money2, that he left his Bishoprick, as being now rich enough: and so returning to Peterborough, where he was Abbot before, he made Causeys through the fens, and did several other works not without very great expence. Long after this, Anthony Bec Bishop of Durham3 founded a Collegiate Church, a Deanry, and seven Prebends here. In this Church, Baron Lumley but now mention'd, plac'd the monuments of his ancestors, all in order, as they succeeded one another from Liulphus down to our own times; which he had either pick'd up out of the suppress'd Monasteries, or made new. More inward, and in the middle (as it were) of the triangle, stands another small village, lately noted for it's College, with a Dean and Prebendaries in it, founded by the said Anthony. The name of the place is Lanchester; which I once imagin'd to be the old Longovicum.
But to return to the Were; which at last winds about into the east, and running by Hilton a castle of the Hiltons, Hilton-castle. falls into the sea at Wiran-muth (as Bede calls it) but now Monks-were-mouth, that is, the mouth of the Were belonging to the Monks. Of which, William of Malmesbury writes thus: The Were flowing into the Sea here, kindly receives the ships that are brought in with a gentle wind: upon each bank whereof, Benedict, Bishop, Bishop Benedict. built a Church [l], and likew [...]se in the same places founded Monasteries; the one to Peter, [Page] the other to Paul. Whoever reads the life of this man, will admire his industry; in bringing hither great store of books, and in being the first man that ever brought Masons and Glaziers into England. Glaziers first in England.
Five miles higher, the Tine also draws to its mouth, which for some way (as we have observ'd) made the north-side of our triangle, with the Derwent. Upon the Derwent, which rises near theApex. angle of this triangle▪ nothing is eminent, unless it be Ebchester Ebchester. (as they now call it,) a small village, so nam'd from Ebba S. Ebba. descended from the blood-royal of the Northumbrians; who flourish'd about the year 630. in so much repute and esteem for her sanctity, that she was solemnly canoniz'd for a Saint, and has many Churches dedicated to her in this Island, which are commonly call'd St. Tabbs, S. Tabbs. for St. Ebbs.
The first remarkable upon the Tine, is Gateshead, Gateshead. in Saxon Gaetsheved, and in the same sence by Historians Caprae caput, i.e. Goats-head; which is a kind of Suburbs to Newcastle upon the other side the Tine, and was annexed to it by Edward the sixth, when he had suppress'd the Bishoprick; but Queen Mary soon after restor'd it to the Church. This place is commonly believ'd to be of greater antiquity than Newcastle it self. And if I should say farther, that this and Newcastle (for they seem formerly to have been only one Town parted by the river) were that Frontier-garison which in the times of the later Emperours was call'd Gabrosentum, G [...]brosentum. and defended by the second Cohort of the Thraces; and that it retain'd its old name in a due sense and signification, notwithstanding this Newcastle has chang'd its name once or twice: I hope it would be no ways inconsistent with truth. For Gaffr is us'd by the Britains for a Goat, and Hen in composition for Pen, which signifies a head: and in this very sense and meaning it is plainly call'd Caprae caput, or Goats-head, by our old Latin Historians: as Brundusium took its name from the head of a Stag, in the language of the Messapii. And I am apt to fancy that this name was given the place from some Inn or other that had set out the Goats-head for the sign; just like the Cock in Africa, The three Sisters in Spain, and The Pear in Italy, all of them mention'd by Antoninus; which (as some learned men think) took their names from such signs. As for our Historians, they unanimously call it Caprae caput, when they tell us that Walcher Bishop of Durham (who was constituted Earl by William the Conquerour, 1080 to govern the Northumbrians) was slain in this place by the furious rabble for his severe and illegal proceedings.
Below this village, almost upon the mouth of the Tine, stands Girwy, now Jarrow; Jarrow, Girwy. where venerable Bede was born, and where a little Monastery heretofore flourisht. When and by whom it was founded, may be learnt from this Inscription, which is legible to this day in the Church-wall; ‘DEDICATIO BASILICAE
S. PAVLI VIII. KL. MAII.
ANNO XVI. ECFRIDI REG.
CEOLFRIDI ABB. EIVSDEMQ.
ECCLES. DEO AVCTORE,
CONDITORIS ANNO IIII. [m].’
Now the greater Churches, [...] when the saving light of the Gospel began to shine abroad in the world (for it is not impertinent to note thus much) were call'd Basilicae, because the Basilicae of the Gentiles, namely those stately buildings where the Magistrates held their Courts of Justice, were converted to Churches by the Christians. Whence Ausonius, Basilica olim negotiis plena, nunc votis; i.e. The Basilica frequented for business heretofore, but now for devotion. Or else, because they were built in an oblong form, as the Basilicae were.
Here, our Bede,B [...]de. the great glory of England (for his eminent piety and learning sirnam'd Venerable) made it his business, as he himself says, to study the Scriptures; and in the very worst times of barbarity, writ many learned volumes. Upon his death (as William of Malmesbury says) almost all knowledge of History down to our times, went to the grave with him. For whilst one still succeeded lazier than another, all spirit of study and industry was quite extinct in the Island. The Danes were so troublesome to this holy place, that in the beginning of the Norman times, when some had reviv'd the Monastick Order in these parts, and Walcher the Bishop had assign'd them this place; the walls (says my Author) stood without a roof, and without any remains of their ancient splendour: however covering them with rough unhewn wood, they thatch'd them with straw, and began to celebrate Divine Service [n.]
It is not necessary, that I here give an account of all the Bishops of Durham;Bish [...]ps Durham who are reckon'd Counts Palatines. It may suffice to observe in short, that from the first foundation of this Bishoprick in the year 995. to our times, there have presided thirty five Bishops in this See. The most eminent of them are these four, Hugh de Puteaco or Pudsey, who for 1013 l. ready money, purchas'd of Richard the first the Earldom of Northumberland for his own life, and Sathbregia, to hold to him and his Successors for ever; and founded a very fine Hospital, as was observ'd before. Between him and the Archbishop, there happen'd a most grievous out-fall,See the Earls of North [...] berland. whilst (as one words it) the one would be superiour, the other would not be inferiour; and neither would do any good. Next, Anthony Bec, Patriarch of Jerusalem; who spent vast sums of money in extravagant buildings, and glorious furniture. Thomas Wolsey, Cardinal, who wanted nothing to compleat his happiness, but moderation: his story is well enough known. And Cuthbert Tunstall, who dy'd about the beginning of this age, and for his knowledge in the best kinds of learning, and a holy life4, was (without envy be it spoken) [...] equal to them all, and the great ornament of our Britaine.
There are in this County and Northumberland 118. Parish Churches, besides a great many Chapels.
ADDITIONS to the BISHOPRICK of DƲRHAM.
[a] THat the great opinion our Ancestors had of the Sanctity of St. Cuthbert, was the occasion of their munificence to his Church; our Histories informs us, and [...] is very evident from our Author. But he seems to have given him more than ever was bestow'd, when he tells us that King Egfrid gave him large Revenues in York. For his Charter (be it true or counterfeit) mentions no such thing. Simeon Dunelmensis indeed (or rather Abbot Turgot) tells us that Creac was given him by this King, Ut haberet Eboracum, iens, vel inde rediens, mansionem ubi requiescere posset. But this only intimates, that St. Cuthbert might have frequent occasions to travel to York; probably, to attend the Court, which the Historian supposes to have been most commonly resident in that City.
[b] Nor can we properly say, that Guthrun the Dane (whom our Historians call also Guthredus, Cuthredus, Gormo, and Gurmundus) was Lieutenant to the great King Aelfred in the Kingdom of Northumberland, [Page 781-782] any more than Aelfred was his Deputy in that of the West-Saxons. For they two by compact divided the whole Kingdom betwixt them, and joyntly enacted Laws, which were to be mutually observ'd both by the English and Danes. And hence some Monks have taken occasion to unite them falsly, in granting Charters to Monasteries, &c.
[c] What vast Privileges and Immunities this Church had by the Liberality of Princes, we may learn in general from Mr. Camden; but may have a more particular view by the help of some observations upon that Head, extracted for me by Mr. Rudd Schoolmaster of Durham, out of the posthumous Papers of Mr. Mickleton, who had made large Collections in order to the Antiquities of this County.
It's probable the Bishops were Counts Palatine before the Conquest; it appears at least they were so in the Conquerour's time. Their power was formerly very great, till part of it was taken away by the Statute of Henry 8. It was a common saying, that Quicquid Rex habet extra Comitatum Dunelmensem, Episcopus habet intrà; nisi aliqua sit concessio, aut praescriptio in contrarium. They had power to levy Taxes, and make Truces with the Scots; to raise defensible persons within the Bishoprick, from 16 to 60 years of age. They had power also to make Barons, who, as well as their vassals, were bound to come to their Palace to advise them, and to give them observance and obedience in their Courts. And altho' the Canons forbid any Clergyman to be present when judgment of blood is given, the Bishops of Durham did and may sit in Court in their Purple-robes in giving judgment of death. Hence the saying, Solum Dunelmense judicat stola & ense. They had a Mint, and power to coyn money. The Courts, which in other places are held in the King's name, were, till the Statute of Henry 8. held here in the Bishop's; till which time he could make Justices of Assizes, of Oyer and Terminer, and of the Peace; and all Writs went out in his name. All Recognizances, entred upon his Close-Rolls in his Chancery, and made to him, or in his name, were as valid within the County, as those made to the King without. He could exempt men from appearing at the Assizes, and being Jurors. He had a Register of Writs of as much authority, as that in the King's Courts. He hath yet his Court of Chancery, Common-Pleas, and County Court, and Copyhold or Halmot Court. A great part of the Land in the County is held of him as Lord Paramount in Capite. All the Moors and Wastes in the County to which no other can make title, belong to him; which could not be enclos'd without his grant. Neither could Freehold Lands be alienated without his leave: they that did so, were oblig'd to sue to him for his Patent of Pardon. He pardon'd intrusions, trespasses, &c. He had villains or bondmen, whom he manumitted when he pleas'd. The Lands, Goods, and Chattels of those that committed Treason are forfeited to the Bishop. All forfeitures upon Outlawries or Felonies belong to him. He could pardon Felonies, Rapes, Trespasses, and other Misprisions. He had the fruits of Tenures by Wardships, Marriages, Liveries, Primier-seizins, Ouster le mains, &c. He gave licence to build Chapels, found Chantries and Hospitals, made Burroughs and Incorporations, Markets, Fairs, &c. He created several Officers by Patent, either quamdiu se bene gesserint, quamdiu Episcopo placuerit; or for life, or lives; viz. his Temporal Chancellor, Constable of the Castle of Durham; Great Chamberlain, Under-Chamberlain; Secretary, Steward, Treasurer, and Comptroller of his Houshold; Steward and Under-steward of the Manours or Halmot Courts, Sheriff, Protonotary, Clerk of the Chancery, Crown, and Peace; several Keepers of the Rolls, belonging to their respective Offices; Registers and Examiners in Chancery; Clerk of the County Court; Stewards of Burrough-Courts; Escheators, Feodaries, Auditors and Under-Auditors; Clerks of the Receipt of the Exchequer; Supervisors of Lordships, Castles, Mines of Coal, Lead, and Iron; Coroners; Conservators of Rivers and Waters; Officers of the Marshalsea, or Clerks of the Market of Cities, Burroughs, and Towns; Keepers of his Seal of Ulnage, and of his Wardrobe and Harness. But none of his Patents are valid any longer than the Bishop's life that gives them, unless they be confirm'd by the Dean and Chapter. He had several Forests, Chaces, Parks, Woods, where he had his Foresters (who kept Courts in his name, and determin'd matters relating to the Forests, &c. or the Tenants of them) Parkers, Rangers, Pale-keepers. He was Lord Admiral of the Seas and Waters within the County Palatine; had his Vice-Admirals, and Courts of Admiralty, Judges, Registers, Examiners, &c. Officers of Beaconage, Anchorage, &c. he awarded Commissions to regulate waters, and passage of waters.
There have been several contests betwixt the Archbishop of York, and the Bishop of Durham, about Ecclesiastical Jurisdiction; the one attempting to exercise his Archiepiscopal jurisdiction in this Diocese the other claiming a peculiar immunity. Walter Gray Archbishop, profferr'd the Archdeacon of Durham the guariandship of Stanhop-Church, but he refus'd to accept it, as having it before in his own or the Bishop's right. Another Archbishop coming to visit the Priory, when the Bishop was absent at Rome, was forc'd to take Sanctuary in St. Nicholas Church; as he was afterwards, upon another attempt of the same nature: and when he was going to excommunicate them in his Sermon, was in danger of being kill'd, if he had not escap'd out of the Church: one of his Attendants lost an ear.
[d] Upon the river Tees lyes Percebridge, Percebridge where was dug up an Altar with this Inscription:
This distinct mention of Condati, would tempt us to believe that this was the ancient Condate which Mr. Camden places in Cheshire. Which opinion one may close with the more freely; because nothing (at least that he has told us of) induc'd him to settle it at Congleton, beside the affinity of names.
[e] North from hence is Heighington Heighington. (in Darlington-ward) where Elizabeth Penyson founded a School in the 43d of Queen Elizabeth, to which Edward Kirkby, late Vicar, gave by Will 70 l.
[f] Of the Pits call'd Hell-Kettles, Hell-K [...]ttles. take this account, as I had it in a Letter from a very ingenious Gentleman, who view'd them.
ACcording to the promise which I made you, I went to sound the depth of Hell-Kettles near Darlington. The name of bottomless pits made me provide my self with a line above two hundred fathoms long, and a lead weight proportionable, of five or six pound weight; but much smaller preparations would have serv'd: for the deepest of them took but fifteen fathoms, or thirty yards of our line. I cannot imagine what these Kettles have been, nor upon what grounds the people of the Country have suppos'd them to be bottomless. They look like some of our old wrought Coal-pits that are drown'd: but I cannot learn that any Coal, or other Mineral has ever been found thereabouts. They are full of water (cold, not hot, as Mr. Camden has been misinform'd) to the very brim, and almost the same level with the Tees which runs near them, so that they may have some subterraneal communication with that river. But the water in the Kettles (as I was inform'd) is of a different kind from the river-water: for it curdles milk, and will not bear soap. But this I did not try.
Below Darlington stands Yarum (bigger and better built than Darlington) a considerable Market: and about three miles below Yarum by Land (but eight or ten by water) stands Stockton, a considerable town well-built, and a Corporation, having a great trade in Lead and Butter: tho' about thirty years since it [Page] had neither trade, nor houses but of clay, and t [...]atch'd
[g] Aukland Aukland. (formerly call'd North-Aukland, sometimes Market-Aukland) is now call'd Bishop-Aukland, from the Bishop's house there; which was ruin'd by Sir Arthur-Haslerig, but magnificently repair'd by Bishop Cosins. The same learned and pious Prelate built likewise a stately Chapel, An. 1665. in which he was bury'd; founded also and endow'd here an Hospital for two Men and two Women.
[h] In the Parish of Branspeth lyes Haircholme, commonly Hairum; [...]irum. whither 'tis reported some of the murderers of Thomas Becket fled after the fact, and built a Chapel there to his memory.
[i] At Durham, Durham. the late Bishop Dr. Jo. Cosins expended vast summs of money in beautifying his Palace, and erecting a Library, well furnisht with Books. The story of Aldwin's settlement here (as our Author has given it) is far from being so full as the Historian Turgot (whom he quotes) has deliver'd it. To omit the many pretended Miracles, and other passages of less moment, he says that the first Church erected at Dunholm by Bishop Aldwin was facta citissimè de virgis Ecclesiola; just such another structure as that which is s [...]id to have been first built at Glassenbury, whereof Sir Henry Spelman (Concil. T. 1. p. 11.) has given us a draught at large.
[k] At Finchale Finchale. (call d in Saxon Pincanheal, by Henry Huntingdon Wincanhale, by Hovden Phincanhal, and by others Finchale; which difference has risen from the likeness of the Saxon p, ƿ, and f) there was a Synod held in the year 788.
[l] When Malmesbury tells us that the two Churches were upon the banks of the river, it is a manifest mistake. For St. Paul's was at Girwy or Jarrow, some miles distance from Weremuth; as appears from all the rest of our Historians, and also f [...]om the Inscription Mr. Camden himse [...]f gives us a little after.
On the Southern bank of the Were stands Sunderland, S [...]d [...]r [...]a [...] a handsom populous town, built since our Author's time, and very much enrich'd by the Coal-trade. Were the Harbour so deep as to entertain Ships of the same burthen as the river Tine does, it would be no small loss to Newcastle.
It gave the title of Earl to Emanuel Lord Scrope of Bolton, created Jun. 19. 3 Car. 1. who dying without lawful issue, Henry Lord Spencer of Wormleighton was honour'd with this title by King Charles 1. and being slain the same year at the first battel at Newbury, was succeeded by Robert his son and heir.
Near Whitburn, W [...] not far from this place, were some Copper Coyns taken up within these few years, most whereof were Constantine's, with the Sun on the Reverse, and these words Soli invicto Comiti. One of them was of Maxentius, with something like a Triumphal Arch on the reverse, and these words, Conservatori Urbis. There were likewise one or two of Licinius, and one or two of Maximianus.
[m] In the Inscription, the XVI. should be XV. For King Egfrid reigned no more than 15 years. And so (indeed) Sir James Ware has given it in his Notes upon Bede's History of the Abbots of Wiremuth. But it ought not from this Inscription to be inferr'd, that Ceolfrid was the Founder of this Monastery: since it appears from Bede's account, that he was only constituted first Abbot of the place by Benedictus Biscopius, who sent him hither (with a Colony of about seventeen Monks) from Weremuth.
[n] Some years ago, upon the bank of Tine, was discover'd a Roman Altar; the figure and description whereof take here as it was deliver'd to the Royal Society by the ingenious and learned Dr. Lister.
[...]. Li [...]ter's [...]er.I have with much trouble got into my hands a piece of Roman Antiquity, which was but a very few years ago discover'd upon the south bank of the river Tine, near the Sheilds in Bishoprick. It is a very large and fair Roman Altar, of one entire stone. But after all my cost and pains, I am very sorry to find the Inscription very ill defaced, that much of it is not legible. And I believe it hath been also mishandled by those who have endeavoured to read it; whereas if the remainder of the Letters had been exactly measured, and the face black'd and lightly wash'd off again, as in prints, some things more might have been spelled.
As to the nature of the stone it self, it is of a coarse Rag, the same with that of the Pyramids at Burrow-Briggs. It is four foot high, and was ascended to by steps; which appeareth, in that all the sides, but the front, have two square holes near the bottom, which let in the irons that joyn'd it to the steps.
I have carefully designed it in all it's sides, and have given the plane of the top also; which, if you please, we will survey in order.
1. The back-side, opposite to the Inscription; on which is engraven, in bass-relief, a Flower-pot furnished, I suppose with what pleased the Stone-cutter, for these men needed not to be more curious than the Priests themselves, who were wont to make use of herbs next hand to adorn the Altars, and therefore Verbenae is put for any kind of herb: yet if we will have it resemble any thing with us, I think it most like, if not truly Nymphaea, a known and common river-Plant.
2. One of the sides, which is somewhat narrower than the front or back: on this are engraved in Bass-relieve, the Cutting-knife (cesespita) and the Axe (securis). The Knife is exactly the same with that on the other Altar formerly by me mention'd in the Philosophical Collections of Mr. Hooke: but the Axe is different; for here it is headed with a long and crooked point, and there the head of the Axe is divided into three points.
3. The other side; on which are engraved, after the same manner, an Eure (Urceolus) and a Ladle, which serve for a Sympullum. This I call rather a Ladle than a Mallet, it being perfectly Dish-wise and hollow in the middle, although Camden is of another opinion in that elegant Sculpt of the Cumberland Altar. And the very same Utensil I have seen and noted on the Ickley Altar, which is yet extant at Middleton Grange near that town; but the stone which Camden says supports a pair of stairs there (as at this day it does in the very road) is but an ill copy of it, and not the original.
4. The plane of the top; which is cut in the figure of a Bason (discus or lanx) with Ansae on each side, consisting of a pair of links of a chain, which rest upon, and fall over two rowles: and this was the Harth.
5. The Front; which hath an Inscription of nine lines in Roman letters, each letter a very little more than two inches deep of our measure; now remaining as in the prefix'd sculpture, Fig. 5. which I would read thus: Dis deabusque Matribus pro Salute M. Aurelii Antonini Augusti Imperatoris — votum solvit lubens meritò ob reditum.
The Deae Matres are well interpreted by Selden. It is much his Safety and Return both vowed, should be so separated in the Inscription; but I have not Gruter by me to compare this with the like. Caracalla, say the Historians [...]. &c., after his father's death at York, took upon him the command of the army alone, and the whole Empire; he went alone against the enemy, who were the Caledonii inhabiting beyond the wall which his father had built, he made peace with them, received their hostages, slighted their fortified places, and returned. And this seems to be confirmed by the Inscription; for undoubtedly upon this his last expedition alone, without his brother Geta and mother, was this Altar erected to him alone, at a place about two Stations on this side the wall. So that the vow might be as well understood of his return from this expedition, as for his safety and return to Rome; which methinks should be true, or his mother and brother Geta would scarce have been left out, at least so early. For yet the Army declared for them both, according to their father's will.
Further, it seems also to have been erected by those who flatter'd him, and who were afterwards killed by him; and for this reason the persons names who dedicated it, seem to me to be purposely defaced, the sixth and seventh lines of the Inscription being designedly cut away by the hollowness of them, and there not being the least sign of any letter remaining. And this, I suppose, might be part of their disgrace, as it was usual to deface and break the Statues and Monuments of persons executed, of which this monster made strange havock.
But since worn Inscriptions admit of various readings, because some letters are worn out, and some more legible, whereby unprejudiced people may conceive them diversly, I will therefore tell you another reading of part of the two first lines, which I do not disallow, but that it will agree well enough with the history of Severus, though his Apotheosis, or solemn deification, was not performed till he came to Rome, in the manner of which Funeral-pomp Herodian is very large: it was of that excellent Antiquary Dr. Johnson of Pomfret.
RI. B. PROS, &c.
The rest as follows in mine.
Which shews the height of flattery of those times. So that they paid their vows to the lately dead father the Conservator of Britain, for the safety of the son: and the story tells us how gladly he would have had him made a God long before, even with his own hand.
More rare Plants growing in the Bishoprick of Durham.
Buphthalmum vulgare Ger. Dioscoridis C. B. Matthioli sive vulgare millefolii foliis Park. Chamaemelum chrysanthemum quorundam J. B. Common Ox-eye. I found this on a bank near the river Tees, not far from Sogburn in this Bishoprick.
Cerasus sylvestris septentrionalis, fructu parvo serotino. The wild northern Cherry-tree, with small late ripe fruit. On the banks of the river Tees near Bernards-castle in the Bishoprick plentifully.
Ribes vulgaris fructu rubro Ger. vulgaris acidus ruber J. B. Red Currants. In the woods as well in this Bishoprick of Durham, as in the northern parts of Yorkshire, and in Westmorland.
Pentaphylloides fruticosa. Shrub-Cinquefoil. This is also found in this County.
LANCASHIRE.
I Must strike off now to another Road, and proceed to those Brigantes who settled beyond the Mountains towards the Western Ocean. And first for those of Lancashire, whom I approach with a kind of aversion; I wish it forebode no ill success. I fear I shall be so far from satisfying the Reader, that I shall not satisfie my self. For after I had survey'd the far greater part of this County, I found but very few things as I had wish'd them; the ancient names seem'd to be every where so much obscured by Antiquity. However, not to seem wanting to this County, I will run the hazard of the attempt, hoping that that Divine assistance will not now fail me, which hath hitherto favour'd me.
Under the Mountains (which, as I have often observ'd, run along through the middle of England, and as I may say, make themselves Umpires, and define the several Shires and Counties) lyes this County of Lancaster, on the West, in Saxon Loncaster-scyre, commonly Lonka-shire, Lancashire, and the County Palatine of Lancaster, because this County is dignified with the title of Palatine. County Palatine. See the beginning of Ch [...]shire. It lyes pent up between Yorkshire on the East, and the Irish Sea on the West; but on the South part towards Ch [...]shire 'tis broader; and by little and little, as it shoots out into the North where it borders upon Westmorland, it grows strait and narrow. And there by the intrusion of the Sea it is broke off; so that no small part of it lyes beyond this Bay, and joyns to Cumberland.
Where this County is plain and level, it yields Barley and Wheat pretty well; in the bottoms of the hills Oats grow best. The Soil of it is every where tolerable, except in some moist and unwholsome places, call'd Mosses, Mosses. which notwithstanding make amends for these conveniences by many countervailing benefits. For the surface of them being par'd off, makes an excellent fat Turf Turfs. for fuel; and sometimes they yield Trees that have either grown under ground, or lain long buried there. Below, in some parts, they find great store of Marle to manure their grounds; whereby that soil which was deem'd unfit for Corn, is so kindly improv'd, that we may reasonably think Mankind rather to blame for their idleness heretofore, than the Earth for her ingratitude. But as for the goodness of this County, we may see it in the complexion of the Natives, who are particularly well favour'd and comely; nay, and if we will,Lancashire Oxen. in the Cattle of it too. For in the Oxen, which have huge horns, andCompositio corpore. proportionable bodies, you shall find nothing of that perfection wanting that Mago the Carthaginian in Columella requir'd.
On the South part, it is divided from Cheshire by the river Mersey, which springeth in the middle of the Mountains, becomes the boundary as soon as it has gone a little from the rise of it, and runs with a gentle stream towards the West, inviting as it were other rivers (to use the words of the Poet) into his azure lap; and forthwith receives the Irwell from the North, and with it all the rivers of this Eastern part. The most memorable of them is the river Roch, upon which in the valley stands Rochdale, Rochdale. a market-town of no small resort; as also Bury upon the Irwell it self, a market-town no way inferiour to the other. And near this, whilst I carefully sought up and down for Coccium, mention'd by Antoninus, I saw Cockley Cockley. a wooden Chapel beset round with Trees; Turton-Chapel, situated in a dirty steep place: Turton-tower, Turton. and Entweissel, a fair built house. The latter of which formerly belong'd to certain noble persons of that name; the former is the seat of that famous family the Orells, at this day. Where the Irk runs into the Irwell, on the left bank (rising in a kind of reddish stone) scarce three miles from the Mersey, flourishes that ancient Town, read according to different copies, Mancunium Ma [...] um. and Manutium, in Antoninus; which old name it has not quite lost at this day, being now call'd Manchester. Man [...] This surpasses all the Towns hereabouts in building, populousness, woollen-manufacture, market-place, Church; and its College,a founded in the reign of Henry the fifth, by Thomas Lord La-Ware B [...]ing summon'd to Parliament among the Lords Temporal by the name of Magister Thomas de la Ware., who was in Orders, and was the last heir-male of this family. He was descended from the Greleys, who were by report the ancient Lords of the Town2. But in the last age it was much more eminent for the credit of its Woolen-cloth or Manchester-Cottons, Ma [...]ch [...] C [...]tt [...] as they call them; and also for the privilege of a Sanctuary in it, which by Act of Parliament in Henry the eighth's time was transferr'd to Chester [a].
In a Park adjoyning to the County of De [...]by, call'd Alparc, I saw the marks of an old square Fort, just where the river Medloc joyns the Irwell, which they call Mancastle. I will not say that this was the ancient Mancunium, the compass of it is so little; but rather that it has been some Roman station: here I saw an old stone with this Inscription;
This other was taken for me by the famous Mathematician J. Dee, Warden of Manchester-College, who view'd it.
O MASAVONIS
P. [...] XXIII.
They may seem erected to the memory of those Centurions, for their approv'd faith and loyalty for so many years together [b].
In the year 920. Edward the elder, as Marianus says, sent an Army of the Mercians into Northumberland (for then this belong'd to the Kings of Northumberland) that they should repair the City of Manchester, and put a Garison in it [c]. For it seems to have been destroy'd in the Danish wars; and because the Inhabitants behav'd themselves bravely against them, they will have their Town call'd Manchester; that is, as they explain it, a city of men: and of this opinion they are strangely fond, as seeming to contribute much to their glory. But these honest men are not sensible that Mancunium was the name of it in the British times; so that the original of it, as 'tis derived from our English tongue, will by no means hold. And therefore I had rather fetch it from the British word Main, which signifies a stone. For it stands upon a stony hill; and beneath the Town at Colyhurst, C [...]l [...] there are noble and very famous quarries.
But to return. The Mersey being now enlarg'd by the river Irwell, runs towards the Ocean by Trafford, T [...]a which gives both name and habitation to the famous family of the Traffords: and by Chatmoss, [...] a wet marshy ground of great extent, a considerable part whereof, in the memory of our fathers, was wash'd away by a river-flood, not without great danger; causing also a corruption of the waters, which destroy'd a great part of the fish in those rivers. [...] [...]he In this place there lyes a valley watered by a small river; and here Trees have been discover'd lying flat in the ground. So that one would think, that when the earth lay unhusbanded, the ditches also unscour'd in these low plains, and either by neglect or depopulation the water-passages were stopt up; those grounds that lay lower than the rest, were converted into such boggy [Page]
[Page] [Page] Mosses (as we call them) or else into standing Pools. If this be true, there is no reason to admire, that so many Trees in places of this nature throughout England, [...] but particularly in this County, should lye overwhelm'd, and as it were buried in the ground. For when the roots of them were loosen'd by reason of the too great moisture of the earth, 'twas impossible but they should fall, and so sink and be drown'd in such a soil. The people hereabouts use poles and spits to discover where they lye; and having observ'd the place, they dig them, and use them for firing. For they burn clear, and give a light as good as Torches; which perhaps is caused by the bituminous earth they have lain in. And for this reason, he vulgar think they have been Firr-trees; [...] which Caesar denys to have grown in Britain [d]. I know the opinion generally receiv'd is, that these have remain'd here ever since the Deluge, being then beat down by the violence of the waters: and the rather because they are sometimes dug up in the higher grounds. However, they do not deny but that these higher grounds they speak of, are wet and quaggy. Those kind of huge Trees are likewise often found in Holland in Germany; which the learned there do suppose were either undermin'd by the Waves on the Sea-shore, or blown down by the wind, and so carried into these low washy places, and there sunk into the ground. But as for these points, we may expect more light into them from the curious Philosophers of this age3.
[...]After Chatmoss we see Holcroft, which gave both seat and name to the famou [...] family of the Holcrofts, formerly enrich'd by marriage with the Coheir of Culchit. For that place stands hard by; which Gilbert de Culchit held in fee of Almarick Butler, as Almarick did of the Earl de Ferrariis in Henry the third's time. Whose eldest daugher and heir being married to Richard the son of Hugh de Hinley, he took the name of Culchith; as Thomas his brother, who married the second daughter, was call'd from the estate Holcroft; the other for the same reason, Peasfalong; and the fourth de Riseley. [...] Now I note this, that the Reader may see that our Ancestors, as they were grave and settl'd in other things, so in rejecting old and taking new names from their possessions, were light and changeable. And this was a thing commonly practis'd heretofore, in other parts of England. Here are little Towns quite round (as also throughout this whole County, Cheshire, and other Northern parts) which have given names to famous families, and continue in the hands of those of the same name to this very day. As Aston of Aston, Atherton of Atherton, Tillesley of Tillesley, Standish of Standish, Bold of Bold, Hesket of Hesket, Worthington of Worthington, Torbeck of Torbeck, &c. It would be endless to reckon up all; neither is it my design to give an account of eminent families, but to survey such places as are of Antiquity. Yet these and such like families in the Northern Counties (that I may once for all observe it) as they rose by their bravery, and grew up more and more by their frugality, and the ancient self-contented simplicity; so in the South parts of England, Luxury, Usury, Debaucheries, and Cheating have undone the most flourishing families in a short time: insomuch that many complain, how the old race of our Nobility fades and decays.
[...]Let us however go on with the Mersey, which runs by Warrington, remarkable for its Lords the Butlers, who obtain'd for it the privilege of a Market from Edward the first. Hence northward, at no great distance, [...] stands Winwick, very famous for being one of the best [...] Benefices in England. Here, in the uppermost part of the Church, are read these verses, in an old barbarous character, concerning King Oswald.
From Warrington the Mersey grows broader, and soon after contracts it self again; but at last opens into a wide mouth very commodious for trade, and then runs into the Sea, near Litherpoole, Litherpool. in Saxon Liferpole, commonly Lirpoole, call'd so (as 'tis thought) from the water spread like a fenn there. It is the most convenient and frequented place for setting sail into Ireland; but not so eminent for its being ancient, as for being neat and populous [e]. For the name of it is not to be met with in old Writers; but only that Roger of Poictiers, who was Lord of the Honour of Lancaster (as they express'd it in those times) built a Castle here; the government whereof was enjoy'd for a long time by the noble family of the Molineaux, Molineux. Knights, whose chief Seat lyes hard by at Sefton, Sefton. which the same Roger de Poictiers bestow'd upon Vivian de Molineaux about the beginning of the Normans. For all the Land between the Ribell and the Mersey, belong'd to the said Roger, as appears by Domesday [f].
Near Sefton, Alt, a little river runs into the Sea, leaving its name to Altmouth a small village, which it passes by, and runs at a little distance from Ferneby, where in the mossy grounds belonging to it, they cast up Turves, which serve the Inhabitants both for fire and candle. Under the Turf there lyes a blackish dead water, which has a kind of I know not what oily fat substance floating upon it, and little fishes swimming in it, which are took by those that dig the Turves here; so that we may say, we have fish dug out of the ground here, as well as they have about Heraclea and Tius in Pontus. Nor is this strange, when in watry places of this nature, the fish by following the water often swim under-ground, and men there fish for them with spades. But that in Paphlagonia many fish are dug up,Fishes dug up. and those good ones too, in places not at all watery, has somewhat of a peculiar and more hidden cause in it. That of Seneca was pleasantly said, What reason is there why fish should not travel the Land, if we traverse the Sea [g].
From hence the shore is bare and open, and goes on with a great winding. More into the Country stands Ormeskirke, Ormeskirk. a market-town, remarkable for being the burial-place of the Stanleys, Earls of Derby; whose chief Seat is Latham hard by, a house large and stately, which from Henry the fourth's time has been continually enlarg'd by them [h]. At that time John Stanley Knight, (father of John Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, descended from the same stock with the Barons of Audley) married the daughter and heir of Thomas Latham an eminent Knight, to whom this great estate, with many other possessions, came as his wife's portion. From that time the Stanleys Stanleys. have liv'd here, of whom Thomas (son of Thomas Lord Stanley) made Earl of DerbyEarls of Derby. by King Henry the seventh, had by Eleanor Nevill, daughter to the Earl of Salisbury, George Lord Le Strange. For he married Joan, the only daughter and heir of John Baron Le Strange of Knockin, who dy'd during the life of his father, leaving a son, Thomas, the second Earl of Derby. He by his wife Ann, daughter of Edward Lord Hastings, had a son Edward the third Earl of Derby; who by Dorothy, the daughter of Thomas Howard Duke of Norfolk, had Henry the fourth Earl, whose wife was Margaret, daughter of Henry Clifford Earl of Cumberland, and mother of Ferdinand the fifth Earl, who dy'd lately, and of William now the sixth Earl, who succeeded his brother4 [i].
Here Dugless, Dugless river. a small brook, runs with an easie still stream; near which our Arthur (as Ninnius says) defeated the Saxons in a very memorable battel. Near the rise of it stands Wiggin, Wiggin. a town formerly call'd Wibiggin, as they affirm: I have nothing to say of this name, but that the Lancashire-men call buildings Biggin; Biggin, what. nor of the town, but that 'tis neat and [Page] plentiful, and a Corporation consisting of a Mayor and Burgesses: also, that the Rector of the Church is (as I have been told) Lord of the town. Hard by stands Holland, Family of Hollands. from which the Hollands, a most famous family (who were Earls of Kent and Surrey, and Dukes of Exeter) took their name and original. The daughter and heir of the eldest brother, who flourish'd here under the degree and title of Knight, being at last marry'd to the Lovels, brought them both the estate and Arms of this family,Arms of the Hollands. namely, In a field Azure With flowers de Ly [...]. florete Argent a Lion rampant gardant Arg.
Near the mouth of the Dugless lies Merton, a large broad lake, which empties it self into this river; where, in the out-let of it, it is presently joyn'd by the river Ribell. Next to the Mersey, this is the first river here that falls into the Ocean; the old name whereof is not quite lost at this day: for Ptolemy calls the Aestuary here Bellisama, Bellisama. and we Ribell, by adding perhaps the Saxon word Rhe, which signifies a river. This river running in a swift stream from Yorkshire-hills, is first carry'd to the southward by three high mountains: Ingleborrow-hill near the spring of it, which made me very much wonder; for it shoots out in a vast ridge, rising (as it were) gradually to the westward, and mounts up towards the end, as if another hill were rais'd upon the back of it. Penigent, Penigent. so call'd perhaps from it's white and snowy head; for so Pengwin signifies in British: it is of a great bulk, but not so high as the other. Where the Rhibell enters Lancashire (for these I have mention'd are in Yorkshire) stands Pendle-hill, Pendle-hill. of great height; and which on the very top produces a peculiar plant, call'd Clowdesbery, Clowdesbery. as if it were the off-spring of the Clouds [k]. But this hill is chiefly famous for the great damage done to the lower grounds about it heretofore, by a fall of water that issued from it; and for being an infallible prognostick of rain, when the top of it is black and cloudy. I the rather make mention of them, both because they are the most eminent hills in our Appennine; and therefore 'tis commonly said,
and also, that what I have already said may be the better understood, Why the highest Alps should be call'd Penninae; Penninae Alpes. the very top of a hill, Pennum; and why the Appennines were so term'd by the old Gauls. For Pen in British signifies the tops of mountains.Pen, what in British. Clithero. At the bottom of Pendle-hill stands Clithero-castle, built by the Laceys at a small distance from the Rhibell. Near this, Whaley, Whaley. in Saxon Walaleg, remarkable for a Monastery built by the Laceys there, which was translated from Stanlaw in the County of Chester, in the year 1296. Here in the year 798. Duke Wada unfortunately engag'd Ardulph King of the Northumbrians at Billangho, now by contraction Langho. The Rhibell turning short about to the westward, gives it's name to a village call'd at this day Riblechester, Riblechester. where so many signs of Roman antiquity, Statues, Coins, Pillars, Pedestals of Pillars, Chapiters, Altars, Marbles, and Inscriptions, are commonly dug up, that this hobling rhyme of the inhabitants does not seem to be altogether groundless:
Moreover, the military-ways led hither: the one, plain by it's high causey, from York; the other from the north through Bowland, a large forest, and for several miles together is plainly visible. But the Inscriptions are so defac'd by the country-people, that though I met with many, I could hardly read above one or two. At Salisbury-Hall, just by, the seat of the noble and ancient family of the Talbots, in the pedestal of a pillar I saw this Inscription.
MARTI, ET
VICTORIAE
D D. AVGG.
ET CC—NN
In the wall adjoyning to it, there is another stone with the portraicture of Cupid and another little image; and in the back-side of it this Inscription was drawn out for me. After a great deal of study, being able to make no sense of it, I have here subscrib'd it, to tempt others to give their opinions.
ROLNASON
OSALVEDN
AL. Q. Q. SAR
BREVENM
BEDIANIS
ANTONI
VS MEG. VI.
IC. DOMV
ELITER
For my part, I cannot so much as fancy any thing about it, but that many of the words are British names of places hereabouts. In the year 1603. when I ca [...] a second time to see this place, I met with an Altar, the greatest and the fairest that ever I saw, with this Inscription5.
M. INGENVIVS
ASIATICVS
DEC. AL. AST.
SS. LL. M.
Upon enquiry after these Deae Matres, I am able to discover nothing, (for among the Inscriptions gather'd up and down in the world, except in another found here in Britain, there is no mention of them;) but only that Enguinum, a little town in Sicily,De [...]e M [...] Vid. S [...] Durh [...] Plut. [...] Marc [...] was famous for the presence of the Mother Goddesses, and that some spears and brass helmets were shewn there, consecrated to those Goddesses by Metio and Ulysses.
I saw there also another little Altar cast out among the rubbish, with this Inscription.
RO MARTI
ELEGAVR
BA POS
VIT EX VO
TO.
This is so small, that one would take it to have been some poor man's little Altar to carry about with him; and to have been for offering incense, or salt flour; whereas that other of a much greater size, was us'd in the sacrifices of larger beasts. These things were certainly done in imitation of Noah by after-ages,T [...]e H [...] [...] G. [...] even when they had revolted from the true worship of God. Nor was it to the Gods only that they rais'd these Altars, but out of a servile flattery to their Emperours likewise, under the impious title of NUMINI MAJESTATIQUE EORUM. To these they fell upon their knees, and worship'd them; these they embrac'd and pray'd to; before these they took their Oaths; and to be short, in these and their Sacrifices the main substance of their Religion consisted. So that they among them who had no Altar, were suppos'd to have no Religion, and to acknowledge no Deity.
Here was also a stone lately dug up with the portraicture of a naked man on horseback, without saddle or bridle, brandishing his spear with both hands, and insulting over a naked man prostrate, who held out before him a kind of square piece. Between the horse and the person prostrate stand the letters D. M. Under the prostrate man are [...] GAL. SARMATA. The other letters (for there were many here) are so defac'd, that they cannot be read, and I dare not venture to guess at them. One would imagine both from the former inscription, and this which was found hard by many years ago, that a wing of the Sarmatae had their station here: ‘HIS. TERRIS. TEGITVR
AEL. MATRONA QV—
[...] the [...]er [...]f [...].VIX. AN. XXVIII. M.II.D.VIII.
ET M. IVLIVS MAXIMVS. FIL.
VIX AN. VI.M.III.D.XX. ET CAM
PANIA. DVBBA. MATER
VIX. AN L. IVLIVS MAXIMVS
—ALAE. SAR. CONIVX
CONIVGI. INCOMPARABILI
ET. FILIO. PATRI PIENTIS
SIMO. ET SOCERAE. TENA
CISSIMAE. MEMORIAE. P.’
However, these give us no light whereby to discover the ancient name of the place, for which we are at a loss; except it has often chang'd the name, a thing not at all unusual: for Ptolemy makes Rigodunum to be in this place, and if that be corrupted from Ribodunum, [...] it is not altogether unlikea Riblechester. And at the same distance from Mancunium or Manchester, viz. 18 miles, Antoninus places Coccium, which is also read Goccium in some copies.
But when the grandeur of this city, having come to its full period, was at last destroy'd by either wars, or earthquake (for so 'tis commonly suppos'd;) somewhat lower, where the tide flows up the Ribell, and is call'd by the Geographer Bellisama Aestuarium, near Penworth (where stood a castle in the Conqueror's time, [...] as appears by the records of the said King;) from the ruins of Riblechester sprang Preston, a large town, handsom for these parts, and populous; so call'd from the Religious, for the name in our language signifies Priest's town. Below it the Ribell is joyn'd by the Derwen, a little river, which first washes Black-burne, a market town, so call'd from the blackness of the water. It belong'd formerly to the Lacies, and has given the name of Blackburneshire to a small neighbouring part of the Country.
[...]From hence it runs by Haughton-Tower, which has given name to an eminent family that has long dwelt there; [...] and by Waleton, which William Lord of Lancaster, King Stephen's son, gave to Walter de Waleton: afterwards it belong'd to the famous family of the Langtons, who are descended from the Waltons. But now to return.
The Preston, but now mention'd, is commonly call'd Preston in Andernesse, [...] instead of Acmundesnesse; for so the Saxons nam d this part of the country, because between the rivers Ribell and Cocar it hangs out for a long way into the Sea, like a Nose: it was also afterwards call'd Agmonder [...]nes. In William the Conqueror's time there were only 16 villages in it inhabited, the rest lay wast, as we find in Domes-day; and it was possess'd by Roger of Poictiers. Afterwards it belong d to Theobald Walter, from whom the Butlers of Ireland are descended; for so we read in a charter of Richard the first: Know ye, that we have given, and by this present charter confirm'd to Theobald Walter for his homage and service, all Agmondernes, with all other appurtenances thereunto, &c. This soil bears oats pretty well, but is not so good for barley; it makes excellent pasture, especially towards the Sea, where it is partly champain; whence a great part of it is call'd the File, [...] as one would guess, for the Feild. Yet in the records of the tower it is express'd by the latin word Lima, which signifies a File, a Smith's Instrument, wherewith iron or other things are polish'd. In other places it is fenny, and therefore counted less wholsom. The Wyr, a little river which comes from Wierdale, a solitary and dismal place, touches here as it runs along in a swift stream, and passes by Grenhaugh-castle,Grenhaugh castle. built by Thomas Stanley, the first Earl of Derby of that family, while he was under apprehension of danger from certain of the nobility outlaw'd in this County, whose estates had been given him by Henry the 7th; for they made several attempts upon him, frequently making inroads into his grounds, till at last these feuds were wisely quieted by the moderation of this excellent person.
In many places along this coast there are heaps of sandb, upon which they now and then pour water,A new way of making Salt. till they grow saltish, and then with a hot turf-fire they boil it into a white salt. Here are also some deceitful and voracious sands (they call them quicksands Quicksands) so dangerous to travellers who when the tide is out take the shortest cut, that they ought to use great care, lest (as Sidonius expresses it) they sink and are shipwrack d in their travels by land; especially, near the mouth of the Cockar, where in a field of quicksands (if I may so say) stands Cockarsand-Abbey, Syrticus Ager. formerly a small Monastery of the Cluniacks, founded by Ranulph de Meschines. It lies expos'd to the winds, situated between the mouth of the Cockar and the Lune, commonly call'd the Lone, with a large prospect into the Irish sea.
The Lone, commonly Lune, Lune riv. which has its rise among the mountains of Westmoreland, runs southward in a crooked chanel, bank'd so as that the current of the water is much hinder'd. To the great gain of those that live thereabouts, it affords store of Salmon Salmon. in the summer time; for this sort of Fish taking great delight in clear water, and particularly in sandy fords, comes up in great shoals into this and the other rivers on this coast. As soon as it enters Lancashire, the Lac, a little river, joyns it from the east. Here, at present, stands Over-burrow, Over burrow. a small country village; but that it was formerly a great city, taking up a large plot of ground between the Lac and the Lone, and was forc'd to surrender by the utmost misery of a siege and famine; I learnt from the inhabitants, who have it by a tradition handed down from their Ancestors. The place it self shews its own antiquity by many old monuments, inscriptions upon stones, chequer'd pavements, and Roman coins, as also by this its modern name, which signifies a Burrow. If it ever recover its ancient name, it must owe it to others, and not to me; tho' I have sought it with all the diligence I could. And indeed, one is not to imagine that the particular names of every place in Britain is to be found in Ptolemy, Antoninus, the Notitia, and in Classick Authors. If a man might have the liberty of a conjecture, I must confess I should take it to be Bremetonacum Bremetonacum. (which was a distinct place from Brementuracum, as Jerom Surita a Spaniard, in his notes upon Antoninus, very reasonably supposes) upon the account of its distance from Coccium or Riblechester.
From this Burrough the river Lone runs by Thurland-Tunstalls, a fort built in Henry the fourth's time by Sir Thomas Tunstall Knight, the King having granted him leave to fortifie and kernel his mansion, that is,What it is to kernel. to embattel it; and then by Hornby a fine castle,Hornby-castle. which glories in its founder N. de Mont Begon, and in its Lords the Harringtons, and the Stanleys Barons de Monte Aquilae or Mont-Eagle, Barons Monteagle. descended from Thomas Stanley first Earl of Derby6. William Stanley, the third and last of these, left Elizabeth his only daughter and heir, marry'd to Edward Parker Lord Morley. She had a son, William Parker, who was restor'd by King James to the honour of his ancestors the Barony of Mont-Eagle, and must be acknowledged by us and our posterity to have been born for the good of the whole Kingdom: for by an obscure letter privately sent him, and produc'd by him in the very nick of time,Gun powder-plot. the most hellish and detestable treason that wickedness it self could project, was discover'd and [Page 795-796] prevented, when the Kingdom was in the very brink of ruin; for some of that wicked gang, under the execrable masque of Religion, stood ready to blow up their King and Country in a moment, having before planted a great quantity of Gun-powder under the Parliament-house for that purpose.
The Lone, after it has gone some miles further, sees Lancaster on the south side of it, the chief town of this county, which the inhabitants more truly callc Loncaster, Lancaster. and the Scots, Loncastell, from the river Lon. Both its name at this day, and the river under it, in a manner prove it to be the Longovicum, w [...]ere under the Lieutenant of Britain (as the Notitia informs us) a Company of the Longovicarians, who took that name from the place, kept ga [...]ison. Tho [...] at present the town is not populous, and the inhabitants thereof are all husbandmen, (for the grounds about it are well cultivated, open, flourishing, and woody enough;) yet in proof of its Roman antiquity, they sometimes meet with coins of the Emperors, especially where the Fryers had their cloyster: for there (as they report) stood the marks of an ancient city, which the Scots in a sudden inroad, in the year 1322, wherein they destroy'd every thing they could meet with, burnt to the ground. From that time they began to build nearer a green hill by the river, upon which stands a castle, not very great nor ancient, but fair built and strong; and upon the very hill stands a Church, the only one in the town, where the Monks aliens had a cell heretofore7. Below this, at a very fine bridge over the Lone, on the sto [...]pest side of the hill, there hangs a piece of a very ancient wall, which is Roman: they call it Wery-wall, probably from the later British name of the town, for they nam'd this town Caer Werid, that is, a green [...], from the green hill, perhaps; but I leave the f [...]r [...]her discovery of this to others. John Lord of Mo [...]iton and Lancaste, who was afterwards King of [...]ng [...]and, confirmed by charter all the liberties which he [...]ad granted to the Burgesses of Bristow. Edward the third, in the 36th year of his reign, granted to the M [...]yor and Bailiffs of the village of Lancaster, that Pleas and Sessions should be held no where else but there. The latitude of this place (not to omit it) is 54 degrees 5 minutes, and the longitude 20 degrees 48 minutes.
From the top of this hill, while I look'd all round to see the mouth of the Lone, (which empties it self not much lower) I saw Forness [...]ournesse. the other part of this County on the west, which is almost sever'd from it by the sea; for whereas the shore lay out a great way from hence westward into the ocean, the sea (as if it were enrag'd at it) ceased not to slash and mangle it. Nay, it swallow'd it quite up at some boisterous tide or other, and the [...]eby has made three large bays, namely, Kentsand, which receives the river Ken, Levensand, Duddensand, between which the land shoots o [...]t so much like a promontory into the sea, that this [...] o [...] the county takes its name from it; [...] and Foreland signifie the same with us that pro [...]tort [...] anterius, that is a fore-promontory, does in lati [...] [l]. The whole tract, except by the Sea-side, is all high mountains and great rocks (they call them Forn [...]ss-f [...]lls [...]rn [...]s [...]e-Fells.) among which the Britains liv'd securely for a long time, relying upon the fortifications wherewith nature had guarded them, tho' nothing prov'd impregnable to the Saxon Conquerors. For in the 228th year after the coming in of the Saxons, we may from hence infer, that the Britains lived here, because at that time Egfrid King of the Northumbrians gave to S. Cuthbert the land called Carthmell, Carthmell. and all the Britains in it; for so it is related in his life. Now Carthmell, every one knows, was a part of this County near Kentsand; and a little town in it keeps that very name to this day, wherein William Mareschal the elder, Earl of Pembroke, built a Priory, and endow'd it. If in Ptolemy one might read Setantiorum S [...]t [...] ru [...] Lacus. [...] (a lake) as some books have it, and not S [...]tantiorum [...], (a haven,) I would venture to affirm that the Britains in these parts were the Setantii; for among those mountains lies the greatest lake in England, now call'd Winander-mere, Winam [...]rmere. in Saxon Winƿadremer, perhaps from the windings in it; about ten miles in length, the bottom pav'd, as it were, with a continued rock, wonderful deep in some places (as the neighbouring Inhabitants tell you) and well stor'd with a sort of fish no where else bred,See the A [...] d [...]ns t [...] W [...]tm [...] land. C [...]are, a fi [...]h. Hi [...]t [...]ry [...]f Ma [...]. which they call Chare [m]. Upon this lake stands a little town of the same name, where in the year 792. Eathred, King of the Northumbrians, slew the sons of King Elfwold, after he had taken them from York; that by his own wickedness and their blood, he might secure himself in the Kingdom.
Between this lake and the river Dudden, is the promontory we commonly call Forness, with the Island Walney like a Counterscarp lying along by it, and a small arm of the sea between. The entry to it isd defended by a Fort call'd The Pile of Fouldrey, Pi [...]e [...] F [...]uld [...]e [...]. situate upon a rock in the middle of the water, and built by the Abbot of Forness in the first year of King Edward the third.
Upon the promontory there is nothing to be seen but the ruins of Forness-Abbey 8,L [...]b. F [...] s [...]n [...]. which Stephen Earl of Bullen, afterwards K. of England, built in the year 1127. in a place formerly call'd Bekensgill; or translated it rather from Tulket in Anderness. Out of the Monks of this place, and no where else (as they themselves have related) the Bishops of the Isle of Man, which lyes over against it, were wont by an ancient custom to be chosen: this being the mother, as it were, of several Monasteries both in that Island and in Ireland [n]. More to the East stands Aldingham, Ald [...]gh [...] the ancient estate of the family of the Harringtons, H [...]gt [...]s. to whom it came from the Flemmings by the Cancefelds; and whose inheritance by a daughter went to William Bonvill 9 of Devonshire, and by him at last to the Greys Marquisses of Dorset. Somewhat higher lyes Ulverston, Ul [...] to be mention'd upon this account, that Edward the third gave a moiety of it to John Coupland, one of the most warlike men of that age, whom he also advanc'd to the honour of a Banneret, for taking David the second, King of Scots prisoner in a battel at Durham. After his death the said King gave it, with other great estates in these parts, and with the title of Earl of Bedford, to Ingleram Lord Coucy a Frenchman; he having married his daughter Isabel, and his Ancestors having been possess'd of great Revenues in England in right of Christian de Lindsey [...]o].
As for those of the Nobility who have bore the title of Lancaster; [...] there were three in the beginning of the Norman Government, who had the title of Lords of the Honour of Lancaster: namely, Roger of Poictou, the son of Roger Montgomery, sirnam'd Pictavensis (as William of Malmesbury says) because his wife came out of Poictou in France. But he being depriv'd of this honour for his disloyalty, King Stephen conferr'd it upon his own son William, Earl of Moriton and Warren. Upon whose death, King Richard the first bestow'd it upon John his brother, who was afterwards King of England. For thus we find it in an ancient History; [...]. King Richard shew'd great affection for his brother John. For besides Ireland and the Earldom of Moriton in Normandy, he bestow'd upon him such great preferments in England, that he was in a manner a Tetrarch there. For he gave him Cornwal, Lancaster, Nottingham, Derby, with the adjacent Country, and many other things. A pretty while after, King Henry the third, son of King John, raised Edmund Crouchback his younger son (to whom he had given the estate and honours of Simon Montfort Earl of Leicester, of Robert Ferrars Earl of Derby, and of John of Monmouth; for rebelling against him) to the Earldom of Lancaster,Ea [...] [...] Lancast [...] giving it in these words, The Honour, Earldom, Castle, and the Town of Lancaster, with the Cow-pastures and Forests of Wiresdale, Lownsdale, Newcastle under Lime, with the Manour, Forest, and a Castle of Pickering, the Manour of Scaleby, the Village of Gomecestre, and the Rents of the Town of Huntendon, [Page] &c. after he had lost the Kingdom of Sicily, with which the Pope by a ring invested him to no purpose; and what expos'd the English to the publick scoff and laughter of the world, he caus'd pieces of gold to be coyn'd with this Inscription, AIMUNDUS REX SICILIAE; [...] having first chous'd and cully'd the credulous King out of much money upon that account. The said Edmund (his first wife dying without issue, who was the daughter and heir of the Earl of Albemarle 10; yet by her last Will made him her heir) had by his second wife Blanch of Artois of the [...]. Royal Family of France, Thomas and Henry; and John who dy'd very young. Thomas was the second Earl of Lancaster, who married Alice the only daughter and heir of Henry Lacy Earl of Lincoln: she convey'd this and her mother's estate, who was of the family of the Long Espee's Earls of Salisbury (as likewise her father Henry Lacy had done before with his own Lands, in case Alice should dye without issue, as indeed it afterwards hapen'd) over to the family of Lancaster. But this Thomas for his Insolence and disrespect to his Prince Edward the second, and for imbroiling the State, was at last taken prisoner in the field, and beheaded, having no issue. However, his Sentence was afterwards revers'd by Act of Parliament, because he was not try'd by his Peers; and so his brother Henry succeeded him in his estate and honours. He was also enrich'd by his wife Maud, daughter and sole heir of Patrick Chaworth; and that not only with her own, but with great estates in Wales, namely, of Maurice of London, and of Siward, from whom she was descended. He dying left a son Henry, [...]. whom Edward the third rais'd from Earl to a Duke; and he was the second of our Nobility that bore the title of Duke. But he dy'd without issue-male, leaving two daughters Mawd and Blanch, between whom the Inheritance was divided. Mawd was married to William of Bavaria, Earl of Holland, Zeland, Friseland, Hanault, and of Leicester too in right of his wife. But she dying without issue, John of Gaunt (so call'd because he was born at Gaunt in Flanders) fourth son of Edward the third, by marriage with Blanch the other daughter of Henry, came to the whole estate. And now being equal to many Kings in wealth, and created Duke of Lancaster by his father, he also obtain'd the Royalties of him. The King too advanc'd the County of Lancaster into a Palatinate by this Rescript; wherein after he has declar'd the great service he had done his Country, both at home and abroad, he adds, We have granted for us and our heirs to our son aforesaid, that he during the term of life shall have within the County of Lancaster his Chancery, and his Writs to be issued out under his own Seal belonging to the Office of Chancellor; his Justices likewise, as well for Pleas of the Crown, as for other Pleas relating to Common Law, to have cognisance of them, and to have power of making all Executions whatsoever by his Writs and Officers. And to have all other Liberties and Royalties of what kind soever appertaining to a County Palatine, as freely and as fully as the Earl of Chester within the said County is known to have, &c. Nor was he only Duke of Lancaster; but also by marriage with Constantia, daughter of Peter King of Castile,John of Gaunt, K. of Castile. for some time bore the title of King of Leon and Castile. But by contract he parted with this title, and in the 13th of King Richard the second, was created by consent of Parliament, Duke of Aquitain 11, to the great dissatisfaction of that Country. At that time his titles were, John, son to the King of England, Duke of Aquitain and Lancaster, Earl of Derby, Lincoln, and Leicester, and high Steward of England.
After this John, Henry de Bullingbroke his son, succeeded in the Dutchy of Lancaster12; who having deposed Richard the second, obtain'd the Crown, and conferr'd this honour upon Heny his son,K. Henr. 4. afterwards King of England. And that he might entail it upon him and his heirs for ever, he had an Act of Parliament made in these words: We being unwilling that our said inheritance, or its liberties, by reason of our now assuming the Royal state and dignity, should be any ways chang'd, transferr'd, diminish'd, or impair'd, but that our said inheritance, with its rights and liberties aforesaid, should in the same manner and form, condition and state, wherein they descended and fell to us, and also with all and singular liberties, franchises and other privileges, commodities, and profits whatsoever, which our Lord and Father in his life time had and held it withal for term of his life by the grant of the late King Richard; be wholly and fully preserv'd, continu'd, and enjoy'd by us and our heirs, specified in the said Charters. And by the tenure of these presents, we do upon our certain knowledge, and with the consent of this our present Parliament, grant, declare, decree and ordain for us and our heirs, that as well our Dutchy of Lancaster, as all and singular Counties, Honours, Castles, Manours, Fees, Advowsons, Possessions, Annuities, and Seigniories whatsoever descended to us before the Royal Dignity was obtain'd by us, how or in what place soever by right of inheritance, in possession, or in reversion, or other way, remain to us and our said heirs, specified in the Charters abovesaid, after the said manner for ever. Afterwards King Henry the fifth by Act of Parliament annex'd a very great estate to this Dutchy, which had fall'n to him in right of his mother13, who was the daughter and coheir of Humphry Bohun, Earl of Hereford. And in this state and condition it remain'd from that time, saving that Edward the fourth, in the first of his reign, when he had attainted Henry the sixth in Parliament for Treason, appropriated it (as they term it) to the Crown; that is to say, to him and his heirs Kings of England. However, Henry the seventh soon broke this entail; and so at this day it has its particular Officers, namely, a Chancellor, Attorney, Receiver, Clerk of the Court, six Assessors, a Messenger, two Auditors, three and twenty Receivers, and three Supervisors.
There are reckon'd in this Shire, besides several Chapels, only 36 Parishes, but those very populous, and such as for number of Parishioners, far exceed the greatest Parishes anywhere else.
ADDITIONS to LANCASHIRE.
[a] THo' Lancaster has given the name to this County; yet Manchester, [...]e [...]er whether one consider Antiquity, number of inhabitants, or growth, seems to be more considerable. And yet for all that it is neither a Corporation, nor does it send Burgesses to Parliament; tho' perhaps of an in-land town it has the best trade of any one in the north of England. It is water'd with the rivers Irke and Irwell: but there is no such river about it as Spolden, upon which the late Historical and Geographical Dictionary has falsly plac'd it; as it hath also it's distance from London, which is really 147 miles. The Fustian-Manufacture, call'd Manchester-Cottons, still continues there, and is of late very much improv'd by some modern inventions of dying and printing; and this, with the great variety [Page 799-800] of other manufactures, known by the name of Manchester-Wares, renders not only the town it self, but also the parish about it, rich, populous, and industrious. Sixty years ago there were computed near 2 000 Communicants in the town and Parish; since which time the inhabitants are much more numerous, proportionable to the increase of trade. The Collegiate Church (which was built in the year 1422.) is a very large, beautiful, and stately edifice; and the Quire is particularly remarkable for it's neat and curious carv d work.
It is likewise beautify'd with three remarkable Foundations, a College, a Hospital, and a Publick School; the following account whereof we owe to the worthy Warden of this place.
The College was first founded A. D. 1421. by Thomas De la Ware, at first Rector of the said Parish-Church, and brother to the Lord De la Ware; whom he succeeded in the estate and honour, and then founded a College there, consisting of one Master or Keeper, eight Fellow-Chaplains, four Clerks, and six Choristers, in honour of St. Mary (to whom the said Parish-Church was formerly dedicated) St. Dennis of France, and St. George of England.
This foundation was dissolved 1547. in the first year of King Edward 6. the lands and revenues of it taken into the King's hands, and by him demised to the Earl of Derby, and the College-house and some lands sold to the said Ea [...]l.
The College was re-founded by Queen Mary, who restored most of the lands and revenues; only the College it self, and some of its revenues, remain'd still in the hands of the Earl of Derby.
It was also founded a-new by Queen Elizabeth A. D. 1578. by the name of Christ's College in Manchester, consisting of one Warden, four Fellows, two Chaplains, four Singing-men, and four Choristers, the number being lessen'd because the revenues were so, chiefl [...] by the covetousness and false-dealing of Thomas Herle then Warden, and his Fellows, who sold away, or made such long leases of the revenues, as could never yet, some of them, be retrieved.
It was last of all re-founded by King Charles 1. A. D. 1636, constituting therein one Warden, four Fellows, two Chaplains, four Singing men, and four Choiristers, and incorporating them by the name of the Warden and Fellows of Christ's College in Manchester; the Statutes for the same being drawn up by Archbishop Laud.
The Hospital was founded by Humphrey Cheetham Esquire, and incorporated by King Charles 2.; designed by the said bountiful Benefactor for the maint [...]nance of 40 poor boys, out of the Town and Parish of Manchester, and some other neighbouring Parishes. But since, 'tis enlarged to the number of 60 by the Governours of the said Hospital, to be taken in between the age of 6 and 10, and there maintained with meat, drink, lodging, and cloaths, to the age of 14, and then to be bound Apprentices to some honest trade or calling at the charge of the said Hospital. For the maintenance of which, he endowed the same with the yearly revenue of 420 l. which is since improved by the care and good husbandry of the Feoffees or Governours, to the yearly sum of 517 l. 8 s. 4 d. they having laid out in the purchace of lands, the sum of 1825 l. which was saved out of the yearly income over and above the maintenance of the poor children and others belonging to the said Hospital; wherein there are annually near 70 persons provided for.
Within the Hospital, and by the bounty of the said Founder, is also erected a very fair and spacious Library, already furnished with a competent stock of choice and valuable books, to the number of near 4000, and daily encreasing with the income of 116 l. per an. setled upon the same by the said worthy benefactor to buy Books for ever, and to afford a competent salary for a Library-keeper. The [...]e is also a large School for the Hospital-boys, where they are daily instructed, and taught to write and read.
The Publick School was founded A. D. 1519, by Hugh Oldham D. D. and Bishop of Exeter, who bought the Lands on which the School stands, and took the Mills there in lease of the Lord De la Ware for 60 years. Afterwards, with the Bishop's money, Hugh Bexwick, and Joan his sister, purchased of the Lord De la Ware his Lands in Ancoates, and the Mills upon l [...]k, and left them in Feoffment to the said Free school for ever. Which Revenues are of late very much encreas'd by the Feoffees of the School, who out of the improvements, have as well considerably augmented the Masters salaries, as the Exhibitions annually allowed to the maintenance of such scholars at the University as the Warden of the College and the high Master shall think requisite; and have besides, for some years past, added a third Master, for whom they have lately erected a new and convenient School at the end of the other.
Besides these publick Benefactions and Endowments, there have been several other considerable sums of money, and annual revenues, left and bequeathed to the Poor of the said Town; who are thereby, with the kindness and Charity of the present inhabitants, competently provided for, without starving at home, or being forced to seek relief abroad.
The Town gives title to an honourable family; Henry Mountague being created Earl of Manchester by K. Charles 1. A. D. 1625; which honour is now possess'd by Edward his Grandchild, the third Earl of this family.
[b] And thus much for its present condition. That it was famous in the time of the Romans, appears from another Inscription Mr. Camden has not mention'd, dug up near the town at Aldport by the river Medlock in the year 1612.
CONSERVA
TRICI
I. SENECIA
NIVS MAR
TIVS ℈ LEG
VI. VICT.
The stone is 3 quarters long, 15 inches broad, 11 thick; and is preserv'd entire in the garden at Hulme, the seat of Sir Edward Moseley, Lord of the town of Manchester. ‘It seems to be an Altar dedicated to Fortune by L. Senecianius Martius, the third Governour or Commander in the sixth Legion, which remain'd at York in the time of Severus's being there, after he had vanquish'd Albinus General of the Britains, and reduced their State under his obedience. It was sirnam'd Victrix, and is plac'd by Dio in Lower Britain; Lib. 55. p. 6 [...]5. 6 [...] Edit. Step [...] 1592. and the 20th Legion sirnam'd nam'd also Victrix, that remain'd at Chester, which he placeth in higher Britain. This division, it seemeth, was made by the same Severus.’ So a Manuscript writ by one Mr. Hollingworth, and now preserv'd in the Publick Library at Manchester. But as to Senecianius's being 3d Governor or Commander; 'tis a way of expressing the particular station of any single man in the army, hardly to be met with in their Inscriptions. Besides, their Numerals, both in Coins, Medals, and Inscriptions, were always express'd by Capital Figures, and not in that abbreviated way we use now-a-days. So that one would rather imagine, that what he calls 3, was design'd to express the office he bore in that Legion.
[c] That it was eminent also among the Saxons, our Author proves from Marianus. That passage Marianus had from the Saxon Chronicle, and Florence of Worcester transcrib'd it from him; and so it was handed down as current to the rest of our Historians. Which consent has induc'd some more modern Writers to close with the receiv'd opinion. But in the Saxon Annals (the original of the story) we are told, that An. 922. Edward repair'd manige ceaster, by which the learned Mr. Nicolson (taking it appellatively) will have only multae civitates, many cities, to be meant; without confining it to any particular one. Which opinion is confirm'd not only by the writing of the Copies that make them two distinct words; but also our Author's deriving the present name from the old Mancunium, whereby [Page 801-802] any relation it might seem to have to a Saxon original, is destroy'd.
[d] Caesar's error in affirming that no Fir-trees ever grew in Britain, is not only confuted by such as lye under-ground, but, as Sir Robert Sibbald tells us, by whole forests of those trees in the north of Scotland. And [...]hron. p. [...]. [...]. John Speed gives us this memorable passage, That at Lough-Argick in the north-west of that Kingdom, there grew firs of great height and thickness. At the root they bore 28 handfuls about; and the bodies mounted to 90 foot in length, bearing 20 inches diameter throughout. This, he tells us, was certify'd to King James 1. by Commissioners sent purposely to enquire for such timber for masts. Nay, and 'tis demonstrable that most of our Moss-wood is of this kind.
In this very County also, at Hey (formerly a seat of the Heys) these trees grow in great abundance, by the industry and contrivance of it's present owner Thomas Brotherton Esq to whom the world is indebted for those curious Observations and Experiments concerning the growth of Trees, mention'd in the Philosophical Transactions publish'd by the Royal Society for the month of June 1687.N [...]m. 18 [...]. [...]at. 2 [...].
But to go along with the Mersey; Warrington (vvhere there is a fine bridge over it) is a pretty large town, and has a considerable market. At present the right honourable Henry Booth takes from hence his title of Earl of Warrington.
[e] At the mouth of the Mersey is Leerpole, famous for a convenient passage over into Ireland: and such as are free of this town have the benefit of being Free-men also of Waterford and Wexford in that Kingdom, as also of Bristol in this. To this (with their trade to the West-Indies, and the several manufactures in the parts adjacent) is probably owing the vast growth of this town of late years. So that it's buildings and people are more than doubly augmented, and the Customs eight or tenfold encreas'd within these 28 years last past. [...]ome, [...] 13. Of late, they have built a Town-house plac'd on pillars and arches of hewn stone, with the publick Exchange for the Merchants underneath it. It is principally indebted to the Mores of Blank-hall, chief Lords and Owners of the greatest share of it; by whom it was beautified with many goodly buildings of hewn stone: so that some of the streets are nam'd from their relation to that family. They have a Free-school, which was formerly a Chapel; at the west-end whereof, next the river, there stood the statue of St. Nicholas (long since defac'd and gone) to whom the Mariners offer'd, when they went to sea. To add to the reputation of this town, it has had several Mayors who were persons of the most considerable families of this County, both before and since the Restoration.
[f] Upon this coast is Crosby magna, [...]y- [...]gna. where they have a Grammar-school, founded by one Harrison a native of the place. It is a fair building of free-stone, and endow'd with 50 l. yearly to the Master and Usher, besides 7 or 8 pound for Repairs and Visitations.
At a little distance is Crosby parva, [...]. within which Lordship, in a place call'd Harkirke, several Saxon Coins were dug up, April 8. 1611. the portraitures whereof were printed in a Copper-plate by William Blu [...]del Esquire, Grandfather to the present Mr. Blundel.
[...].[g] Next our Author mentions Fishes underground at Ferneby. The name of the place is certainly Formby: and whatever grounds our Author might have for his assertion, Mr. Blundel (to whom we are indebted for information in several particulars belonging to those parts) tho' he has liv'd above 60 years in the neighbourhood, could never by the best enquiry hear of any such thing. The unctious matter he mentions, is indeed remarkable: and a Chymist in the neighbourhood reports, that he has extracted from it an oyl extraordinary soveraign for Paralytick distempers; having first congeal'd it into a turf.
[h] At some distance from the shore is Lathom, [...]a [...]om. memorable for that personal and successful defence of it, made by Sherlotta the loyal Countess of Derby, against a close and long siege of the Parliament-army in the year 1644. For a more particular account of her bravery, I refer the Reader to Sir William Dugdale's account of this Action, in his Baronage. However, that ancient house of Lathom, after a second siege, was laid almost flat in the dust, and the head of James, that heroick Earl of Derby, cut off at Bolton in this County, October 15. 1651. by the prevailing power of the Parliament.
Near Lathom-park, in the grounds of the Earl of Derby, there is a mineral-water or spaw, as deeply impregnated with the Iron and Vitriol minerals, as any either in this County, or Yorkshire. The want of convenient Lodging and other accommodations, make it less frequent [...]d; but 'tis certain it has done some notable cures, one particularly, which an ingenious Gentleman of this County affirms, upon his own certain knowledge, to have been one of the greatest and quickest that ever he knew done by any such water.
[i] In Haigh H [...]igh. near Wiggin, in the grounds of Sir Roger Bradshaigh, there are very plentiful and profitable mines of an extraordinary Coal. Besides the clear flame it yeilds in burning, it has been curiously polish'd into the appearance of black marble, and fram'd into large Candlesticks, Sugar-boxes, Spoons, with many other such sorts of vessels; which have been presented as curiosities, and met with very good acceptance both in London and beyond sea.
North from hence lyes Whittle Whittle. near Chorley, where in the grounds of Sir Richard Standish, a mine of lead has been lately found, and wrought with good success; possibly the first that has been wrought in this County. And near the same place is a plentiful quarry of Mill-stones, no less memorable than those mention'd by our Author in the Peake of Derby.
Within a mile and a half of Wiggin, is a Well;B [...]rning-Well. which does not appear to be a spring, but rather rain-water. At first sight, there's nothing about it that seems extraordinary; but upon emptying it, there presently breaks out a sulphureous vapour, which makes the water bubble up as if it boyl'd. A Candle being put to it, it presently takes fire, and burns like brandy. The flame, in a calm season, will continue sometimes a whole day; by the heat whereof they can boyl eggs, meat, &c, tho' the water it self be cold. By this bubbling, the water does not encrease; but is only kept in motion by the constant Halitus of the vapours breaking out. The same water taken out of the Well will not burn; as neither the mud upon which the Halitus has beat.
[k] Of the plant call'd Clowdesbery mention'd by our Author, I have the following account from Mr. Nicollon. Some of our Botanists have given it the name of Vaccinia nubis; but the more common and better is Chamaemorus: for 'tis a dwarf-mulberry. It is not peculiar to Pendle-hill, but grows plentifully on the boggy tops of most of the high mountains both in England and Scotland. In Norway also, and other Northern Countries, it is plentiful enough. Instead of Gerard's mistaken name of Clowdberry, the Northern peasants call it Cnout-berry; and have a tradition that the Danish King Knute, being (God knows when) distress'd for some time in these wasts, was reliev'd by feeding upon these dainties. I know not whether it will countenance the story, to observe that this King's name is in our ancient RecordsSee Selden's Titles of Honour. p. 501. sometimes written Knout. But this berry is not the only edible that bears his name to this day: for in this County 'tis said they have a bird of a luscious taste,Drayt. Poly olb. p. 112. which (in remembrance of King Cnute) they call the Knot-bird.
[l] Next we come to the north side; the scanty account whereof given by our Author, is here supply'd mostly by the informations of the worshipful Sir Daniel Flemming of Ridal in Westmorland, a great ornament to his Country, and very well verst in the subject of Antiquities.
As the Island Foulney is so call'd from the great store of Fowl usually there; so may this whole tract he nam'd Furness Furness. or Fournage, from the many Furnaces therein in old time; as the Rents and Services paid for them do testifie. For many Tenants in this County still pay a Rent, call'd Bloom Smithy-Rent.
The 3 SandsSands. are very dangerous to Travellers both by reason of the uncertainty of the Tides which are quicker and flower, according as the winds blow more or less from the Irish-sea; and also of the many quicksands, caus'd principally by much rainy weather. Upon which account, there is a guide on horse-back appointed to each Sand, for the direction of such persons as shall have occasion to pass over; and each of the three has a yearly Salary paid him out of his Majesty's revenue.
Windermere Charr s. See the Additions to Westmorland.[m] The greatest Lake in those parts is Winandermere, wherein the Charr mention'd by our Author, is a sort of golden Alpine Trout, and to be had in other of our Northern Lakes, as Ulles-water, Butter-meer, &c. as well as here. They have also the same fish in some parts of North-Wales, where 'tis call'd Tor-goch or Red-belly. Where our Author had the story of Eathred is hard to guess: it is probable Roger Hovden was his Author, who possibly is the only Historian that mentions it. However, it does not look very plausible; for this Eathred or Ethelred was himself King Aelfwold's son.
Gleston.[n] Within the Manour of Aldingham is Gleston-Castle, which has been very large and firm; having four strong towers of a great height▪ besides many other buildings with very thick walls. To observe it here once for all; many persons of quality, especially towards Scotland, had either Castles or Towers to dwell in, to defend themselves and their Tenants from the inroads of the Scots. Anciently they had their houses kernell'd, fortify'd, or embattel'd; and divers Commissions have been awarded in pursuance of the Stat. 2 and 3 P. & M cap. 1. unto certain persons to enquire what and how many Castles, Fortresses, &c. have been decay'd, what are fit to be reedify'd, and how many new ones necessary to be erected. This of Gleston is seated in a fertile vale amongst rich meadows, and shelter'd from the Sea by fruitful hills; all which render it one of the most pleasant seats in this Country.
[o] Hard by Dudden-sands is Kirkby-Ireleth, K [...]rby-I [...]eleth. the Manour-house whereof (Kirkby-Cross-house, so call'd from a Cross plac'd before the gates, the top of which was broke off, as 'tis said, by Archbishop Sandys's order) is a stately seat, giving name to the Kirkbys, who have been Lords of it ever since the Conquest: the present owner is Colonel Roger Kirkby.
Near the river Dudden lyes Broughton, Broughton. formerly the chief seat of a family of that name, till in the reign of Henry 7. it was forfeited for Treason by Sir Thomas Broughton Knight, who then took part with the counterfeit Plantagenet that landed in Fourness. And here it may not be improper to observe a mistake in the History of that King's reign, where 'tis affirm'd that Sir Tho. Broughton was slain at Stokefield; whereas in truth he escap'd from that battel to Witherstack, a Manour then belonging to him in the County of Westmorland. Here he liv'd incognito a good while among his Tenants, here also he dy'd and was bury'd; and his grave is known and to be seen at this day.
Next is Coniside C [...]i [...]ido. anciently call'd Conyngesheved, hetetofore an Hospital, or Priory, founded by William de L [...]ncaster, Baron of Kendal, and formerly the possession of the Sandys. It's said that Edward Sandys, Archbishop of York, was born here.
About a mile from Ulverston is Swartmoor, Swartmoor. so call'd from Martin Swart (who came in with the counterseit Plantagenet at the Pile of Fouldrey, in King Henry the seventh's time.) Here it was also, that An. 1652. George Fox and some of his Fellow-Quakers first shew d themselves in this Country, where they have almost ever since remain'd.
A little North from Ulverston is Plumpton, Pl [...]mpton. where were formerly Mines and a Forge: from whence, a pretty way North, is Coningston, Coningston a Manour plac'd bebetween Coningston-Fells (very high Mountains, wherein are many Mines of Copper, Lead, &c.) and Coningston-water, a Lake five miles long, and near a mile broad. The town is sometimes call'd Fleming-Coningston (to distinguish it from another lying on the contrary side of the lake, nam'd Monk Coningston, as formerly belonging to the Abbey of Fourness.) For in the reign of Henry the third it came by marriage from the Urswicks to Sir Richard le Flemming of Caernarvon-Castle, and has been ever since enjoy'd by his heirs-males; Sir Daniel Flemming of Rydal-hall in the County of Westmorland Kt. being the present owner. This Manour of Rydal came to them by Sir Thomas le Flemming's marrying Isabel, one of the daughters and coheirs of Sir John de Lancaster of Rydal and of Holgil-castle in the same County, Knight. The Chapel here was made Parochial, among dive [...]s others in this Country, by Edwin Sandys, Archbishop of York.
By the Sand-side is Wraysholme tower, Wrays [...] [...] near which was not long since discover'd a Medicinal Spring of a brackish taste. The water is now drunk by many every Summer, being esteem'd a very good remedy for Worms, Stone, Gout, Itch, and several other distempers.
Our Author, besides Chapels, makes but 36. Parishes in this County: whereas it appears by an Ecclesiastical state of the County, taken about the beginning of K. James the first, that there are no fewer than 60. The Manuscript was drawn up by one Mr. Urmston, and is in the hands of Thomas Brotherton of Hey, Esq
More rare Plants growing wild in Lancashire.
Asphodelus Lancastriae verus Ger [...]emac. discr. Pseudo-asphodelus palustris Anglicus C. B. Lancashire Asphodel, or Bastard-English-Asphodel. This being a Plant commonly growing in mosses or rotten boggy grounds in many Counties of England, I need not have mentioned here, but that our English Herbarists have been pleased to denominate it from this County, as if it were peculiar to it. Lobel saith, they call it Maiden-hair, because the Women hereabout were wont to colour their hair with the flower of it.
Bifolium minimum. The least Tway-blade. Observed upon Pendle-hill among the heath. See the Synoyms in Yorkshire.
Cerasus Sylvestris fructu minimo cordiformi P. B. Wild Heart cherry-tree, commonly call'd the Merry-tree. About Bury and Manchester. See Westmorland.
Cochlearia marina folio anguloso parvo D. Lawson. Small Sea Scurvy-grass with a corner'd leaf. In the Isle of Walney. I take this to be the same with the Cochlearia rotundifolia minor nostras & Park. and the Thlaspi hederaceum Lob.
Conyza helenitis foliis laciniatis. Jagged Fleabane-Mullet, or Marsh-Fleabane. In the ditches about Pillinmoss plentifully.
Crithmum spinosum Ger. maritimum spinosum C. B. maritimum spinosum, seu Pastinaca marina Park. Pastinaca marina, quibusdam Secacul & Crithmum spinosum J. B. Prickly Sampire or Sea-Parsnep. Observed by Mr. Lawson at Roosbeck in Low-Fourness.
Echium marinum P. B. Buglossum dulce ex insulis Lancastriae Park. Sea-Bugloss. Over-against Bigger in the Isle of Walney plentifully.
Eruca Monensis laciniata lutea Cat. Ang. An Eruca Sylvestris minor lutea Bursae pastoris folio C. B. Small jagged yellow Rochet of the Isle of Man. Between Marsh-Grange and the Isle of Walney.
Geranium haematodes Lancastrense, flore eleganter striato. Bloody Cranes-bill with a variegated flower. In the Isle of Walney in a Sandy-soil near the Sea-shore.
Juncus Alpinus cum cauda leporina J. B. Harestail-Rush, Moss-crops, upon the Mosses, of which there are plenty in this County.
Rosmarinum purpureum. Purple-Goats-beard. On the banks of the river Chalder, near the Lady Hesketh's house, two miles from Whalley, P. B. This, Mr. Fitz-Roberts; a skilful Herbarist, affirms himself to have found wild, but not in the place mention'd.
Tormentilla quadrifolia radice rotunda. Merret. Pin. Near Wigan in Lancashire.
Sambucus foliis laciniatis. Elder with jagged leaves. In a hedge near Manchester. I suspect that this was no native, but industriously or accidentally planted there.
WEST MORELAND.
TO the utmost bounds of Lancashire on the North joyns another small tract of the Brigantes, call'd in Latin Westmorlandia, in English Westmoreland, and by some modern Writers Westmaria. On the West and North, it is border'd by Cumberland; on the East, by Yorkshire and the Bishoprick of Durham. From its situation among high Mountains (for here our Appennine runs out broader and broader) and from its lying generally uncultivated, it had this name. For the North parts of England call wild barren places, such as are not fit for tillage, by the name of Mores; so that Westmoreland implies no more than an uncultivated tract lying towards the West. Let then that idle story about King Marius (whom some of our Historians affirm to have conquer'd the Picts, and to have call'd this County after his own name) be banisht out of the School of Antiquities [a].
The South part of the County (which for some time is pent up in a narrow compass between the river Lone anda Winander-mere) is in the Valleys pretty fruitful, tho' not without its bare stony rocks; and is call'd by one general name, [...] of [...] The Barony of Kendal or Candalia, signifying a Vale upon the Can [b]. This it took from the river Can, which runs along this valley in a stony Chanel,aa and has upon its Western bank a very populous town, call Candale 1 or Kirkby-Candale, i.e. a Church in the valley upon Can. It has two Streets crossing each other, is very eminent for the woollen manufacture, and the industry of the inhabitants, who trade throughout all England with their woollen cloath. Their greatest honour is, [...]. that Barons and Earls have taken their titles from the place. The Barons were of the family of Ivo Taleboys, of whose posterity William, by consent of King Henry the second, call'd himself William of Lancaster. His [...] of [...]. niece and heir was marry'd to Gilbert, son of Roger Fitz-Reinfrid, by whose daughters (upon the death of William his son) the estate came to Peter Brus the second Lord of Skelton of that Christian-name, and William Lindsay, from whom on the mother's side, Ingelram Lord of Coucy in France, [...] of [...]. deriv'd his pedigree, as I understood by the History of Fourness-Abbey. By the daughter of this Peter Brus, sister and heiress to Peter Brus the third, the Barony descended to the Rosses of Werke; and from them the honour was devolv'd hereditarily upon the Parrs 2, whose Castle, over against the town, is ready to drop down with age. It has had three Earls; [...] of [...]. John Duke of Bedford, advanc'd to that honour by his brother King Henry the fifth; John Duke of Somerset; and John de Foix, descended from the noble family of the Foix in France, whom King Henry the sixth rais'd to that dignity for his faithful service in the French wars. Upon which account possibly it is, that some of this family of Foix in France have still the sirname of Kendal [c]. I know no other piece of Antiquity that Kendal can boast of. Once indeed I was of opinion that it was the old Roman station, Concangii; but time has inform'd me better [d]. [...]. Lower in the river Can, there are two Water-falls, where the water is tumbled headlong with a hideous noise; one at a little village call'd Levens, another more Southward near Betham. From these the neighbours draw certain prognostications of the weather: for when the Northern one has a clear sound, they promise themselves fair weather; but when the Southern, rain and mists. And thus much of the Southern and more narrow part of this County, bounded on the West with the river Winster, and the spacious Lake mention'd but now, call'd Winander-mere; and on the east with the river Lone or Lune.
At the upper corner of this Lake Winander-mere, Ambleside. lyes the carcass, as it were, of an ancient City, with large ruins of walls, and scatter'd heaps of rubbish without the walls. The Fort has been of an oblong figure, fortify'd with a ditch and rampire, in length 132 Ells, and in breadth 80. That it was a work of the Romans, the British bricks, the mortar temper'd with small pieces of bricks, the little Urns or Pots, the Glass Vials, the Roman Coins commonly met with, the round stones like Mill-stones (of whichCoagmentatis. soder'd together, they us'd formerly to make Pillars) and the pav'd ways leading to it; are all an undeniable Evidence. But the old name is quite lost; unless one should imagine from the present name Ambleside, that this was the Amboglana Ambolgana. mention'd by the Notitia [e].
Towards the East, the river Lone is the limit, and gives its name to the adjoyning tract, Lonsdale, i.e. a vale upon the Lone; the chief town whereof is Kirkby Lonsdale, whither the neighbouring Inhabitants resort to Church and Market. Above the head of the Lone, the Country grows wider, and the Mountains shoot out with many windings and turnings; between which there are here and there exceeding deep vallies, and several places hollow'd like so many deep or caves [f]. The noble river of Eden, Eden. call'd by Ptolemy Ituna, Itu [...]a. b rising in Yorkshire, has at first only a small stream, but increasing gradually by the confluence of several little rivers, seeks a passage through these Mountains to the North-west, by Pendragon-Castle, c to which age has left nothing but the name and a heap of great stones [g]. Then it runs by Wharton-hall, the seat of the Barons of Wharton, Whartonhall. Lords Wharton. the first whereof was3 Thomas, advanc'd to that honour by King Henry the Eighth. To him succeeded his son of the same name, who was succeeded by Philip the present Lord, a person of great honour [h]. Next, by Kirby-Stephen, or Stephen's Church, a noted market; and so by two little villages call'd Musgrave, Musgrave. that gave name to the warlike family of the Musgraves [i]; of which, Thomas Musgrave in the time of Edward the third, was summon'd to Parliament among the Barons: their seat was Heartly-Castle, Heartly-Castle. hard by.
Here the Eden as it were stops its course, that it may receive some rivulets; upon one of which, scarce two miles from Eden it self, stood Verterae, Verterae. an ancient town mention'd by Antoninus and the Notitia. From the latter of these we learn, that in the decline of the Roman Empire, a Praefect of the Romans quarter'd there with a band of the Directores. Now, the town it self is dwindl'd into a little village, defended with a small Fort, and its name pass'd into Burgh; Burgh under Stane-more. Veget. l 4. c. 10. for it is call'd Burgh under Stane-more, i.e. a Burrow under a stony Mountain. Under the later Emperours (to observe it once for all) the little Castles, which were built for the emergent occasions of war and stor'd with provisions, began to be call'd Burgi; a new name, which after the translation of the Empire into the East, the Germans and others seem to have taken from the Greek [...]. And hence the Burgundians have their name from inhabiting the Burgi; Orosius. for so that age call'd the Dwellings planted at a little distance one from another along the Frontiers. I have read nothing of it, but that in the beginning [Page] of the Norman Government4 the English form d a Conspiracy here against William the Conquerour. I durst almost affirm that this Burgh was the old Verterae, both because the distance on one side from Levatrae, and on the other from Brovonacum, if resolv'd into Italian miles, does exactly agree with the number assign'd by Antoninus; and also because a Roman military way, still visible by its high ridge or agger, runs this way to Brovonacum, by Aballaba, mention'd in the Notitia, the name whereof is to this day kept so entire, that it plainly shews it to be the same, and leaves no grounds for dispute [k]. For instead of Aballaba, Aballaba. we call it at this day, by a little contraction, Apelby. Apelby. Nothing is memorable about it, besides it's antiquity and situation: for under the Romans it was the Station of the Mauri Aureliani; and 'tis seated in a pretty pleasant field, and almost encompass'd with the river Eden. d But it is of so little resort, and the buildings so mean, that if Antiquity did not make it the chief town of the County, and the Assizese were not kept in the Castle, which is the publick Gaol for Malefactors; it would be but very little above a village [l]. For all its beauty consists in one broad street, which runs from north to south up an easie ascent; at the head whereof the Castle rises up,f almost entirely surrounded with the river. At the lower end is the Church, and a School built by Robert Langton and Miles Spencer Doctors of Law [m]; the present worthy Master whereof is Reginald Bainbrigg, a very learned Gentleman, who courteously transcrib'd for me several ancient Inscriptions, and has remov'd some into his own garden. It was not without good reason, that William of Newburrow call'd this place and Burgh, spoken of before,Regias munitiones. Royal Forts; where he tells us that William King of Scots took them by surprise, a little before he himself was taken at Alnewick. Afterwards they were recover'd by King John, who gave them to John de Veteri ponte or Vipont, as a reward for his good services.
From hence the river posts forward to the northwest by Buley Castle, belonging to the Bishop of Carlisle [n]; and by Kirkby-Thore, below which there appear the vast ruins of an old town: where also Roman Coins are now and then dug up; and not long ago this Inscription: ‘DEO BELATVCADRO
LIB VOTV
M. FECIT
IOLVS’
Age has quite worn out the old name; andg they call it at this day Wheallep-Castle Whellep-castle. [o]. If it might be done without offence to the Criticks in Antiquity, I should say this was the Gallagum mention'd by Ptolemy, and call'd by Antoninus Gallatum. Gallatum. Which conjecture, as it agrees with the distances in the Itinerary, so is it partly favour'd by the present name. For such names as the Britains begun with Gall, the English turn'd into Wall. Thus Galena was call'd Wailing-ford; Gall-Sever, Wall of Sever, &c. This was, without doubt, a place of considerable note; seeing an old causey (commonly call'd Maiden-way Maiden-way.) runs almost directly from this place to Caer-Vorran (near the Picts Wall) along moorish hills and mountains, for some 20 miles. Upon this, I am enclin'd to believe the old Stations and Mansions mention'd by Antoninus in his ninth Iter, to have been setled; tho' no one has pointed out the particular places [p]. For indeed how should they? when Time (which consumes and destroys every thing) has been, as it were, seeding upon them for so many ages.
Hard by, at Crawdundale-waith, there appear ditches, rampires, and great mounts of earth cast up; among which was found this Roman Inscription, transcrib'd for me by the abovemention'd Reginald Bainbrig School-master of Appleby. It was cut in a rough sort of rock; but the fore-part of it was worn away with age5.
— ECTVS. LEG. XX. V. V.
— AEL. LVCANVS
— P. LEG. II. AVG. C.
i.e. (as I read it) Varronius Praefectus legionis vicesimae Valentis victricis — Aelius Lucanus Praefectus legionis secundae Augustae, castrametati sunt; or some such thing [q]. For the Legio Vicesima Valens Victrix, which quarter'd at Deva or West-Chester; as also the Legio secunda Augusta, which quarter'd at Isca or Caer-Leon in Wales; being both detach'd against the enemy in these parts, seem to have fix'd here, and to have pitch'd their camps for some time: and 'tis probable that the Officers, in memory of it, might engrave this in the rock [r]. When this was done, is hard to determine; tho' to mark out the time, these words were engraven in large characters, and are still to be seen in a rock near it, CN. OCT. COT. COSS. But in the Consular Fasti I do not find that any two of that name were Consuls together [s]. This observation however I have made, that from the age of Severus to that of Gordian, and after, the Letter A in the Inscriptions found in this Island, wants the cross-stroke, and is engrav'd thus Λ.Λ [...]
Next, Eden runs along not far from Howgil, a castle of the Sandfords; but the Roman military way runs directly west through Whinfeild (a large park thick set with trees) to Brovoniacum, Wh [...] the N [...] is the [...] as a F [...] B [...]ovon [...] cum. 20 Italian miles, but 17 English, from Verterae, as Antoninus has fix'd it. He calls it also Brocovum; as the Notitia Broconiacum, from which we understand that the [...] Company of the Defensores had their abode here. Tho' Age has consum'd both it's buildings and splendour, yet the name is preserv'd almost entire in Brougham, Broughham. as we call it at present. Here the river Eimot (which runs out of a large Lake, and is for some space the border between this County and Cumberland) receives the river Loder, near the head whereof, at Shap, formerly Hepe (a small Monastery built by Thomas Fitz Gospatrick, son of Orm) there is a Well, which like Euripus ebbs and flows several times in a day [t]; as also large stones in the form of Pyramids (some of them 9 foot high and 14 thick) set almost in a direct line, and at equal distances, for a mile together. They seem design'd to preserve the memory of some Action or other; but the injury of Time has put it beyond all possibility of pointing out the particular occasion. Upon Loder, there is a place of the same denomination, which (as Strickland not tar off) has given name to an ancient and famous family [u]. Lower down [w] at the confluence of Loder and Eimot, was dug up (in the year 1602.) this stone, set up in memory of Constantine the Great.
C. VAL.
CONSTANTINO
PIENT.
AVG.
After Eimot has been for some space the bound between this County and Cumberland [x], near Isanparles Is [...]p [...] (a rock well known in the neighbourhood,) which [Page 809-810] Nature hath made of such a difficult ascent, with several caverns also and windings, as if she design'd a retreat for the distress'd in troublesome times,) it throws its own waters with those of other rivers, into Eden, a few miles below: having first receiv'd the little river Blencarne (the bound on this side between Westmorland and Cumberland) upon which I understood there were the vast ruins of a Castle, call'd the Hanging walls of Marcantoniby, Hanging- [...]a [...]ls of Marcanto [...]y. that is (as they tell you) of Mark Antony.
[...] Term. M [...]h. R. 6. [...] l. [...] of [...] Vipants.Theh first Lord of Westmorland, that I know of, was Robert de Veteri ponte or Vipont, who bore in a shield gules six Annulets Or. For King John gave him the Bailiwick and revenues of West morland by the service of four Knights: whereupon the Cliffords, his successors, held the Sheriffdom of Westmorland down to our age. For Robert the last of the Viponts, left only two daughters,6 Sybil wife of Roger Lord Clifford, and Idonea wife of7 Roger de Leybourne. A long while after, King Richard 2. created Ralph de Nevil or New-Ville (Lord of Raby, a person of a very noble and ancient English Pedigree, being descended from Uhtred E. of Northumberland) first E. of Westmorland;Earls of Westmorland. whose posterity8 by his first wife M. daughter of the Earl of Stafford enjoy'd this honour, till Charles, (hurry'd on by a boundless Ambition) violating his duty to Queen Elizabeth and his Country9, fix'd an eternal mark of infamy upon this noble family, cast a blot upon his own dignity10, and leaving his native country, liv'd and dy'd very miserably in the Netherlands. His issue by the second wife Katharine, daughter of John of Gaunt D. of Lancaster, became so famous and numerous, that almost at the same time there flourish'd of it11 the Earl of Salisbury, the Earl of Warwick, the Earl of Kent, the Marquis of Montacute 12, Baron Latimer, and Baron Abergevenny.
In this County are i 26 large Parishes.
ADDITIONS to WESTMORELAND.
[a] IN the general description of this County, Mr. Camden seems to have taken his measures only from one part of it. For travelling from Lancaster, through the Barony of Kendal, to Workington in Cumberland, he met with little in his road, besides great mountains with here and there a Valley between, and so took an estimate of the whole from that part; imagining probably, that the more southerly corner was like to be as good at least, if not better than the rest. But had he gone directly northward, he would have found reason to change his opinion: the Barony of Westmorland (commonly call'd the bottom of Westmorland, from it's low situation) being a large open champain country, in length not less than 20 miles, and in breadth about 14. And so far is it from being uncultivated, that it affords great plenty of arable grounds; and those, good store of corn. Nor do Mores in the northern parts signifie wild barren mountains, but generally Common of pasture, in opposition to Mountains or Fells. So that in the Barony of Kendal (where they have most Mountains) there are few or no Mores, their Commons being generally call'd Fells; and in the bottom of Westmorland there are few mountains (except that ridge which bounds the Country like a rampire or bulwark,) but very many Mores: which yet are so far from being uncapable of improvement, that most of them have been formerly plow'd, as the ridges appearing do assure us. If the whole Country therefore were to be deriv'd from barren mountains; we might say with more reason, that it had the name from lying westward of that long ridge of hills, which Mr. Camden calls the English Apennine. As for the story of King Marius, tho' our Author perhaps justly rejects it so far as 'tis urg'd for giving name to this County; yet we must not be too hasty in exploding the whole matter of fact as fabulous, since the [...] [...]2. learned Primate of Armagh has said so much in favour of it.
Before we descend to a particular Survey, we may observe that the Gentlemens houses in this County are large and strong, and generally built Castle-wise, for defence of themselves, their Tenants, and their goods, whenever the Scots should make their inroads; which before the time of King James 1. were very common.
That it is divided into the Barony of Kendal, and the Barony of Westmorland, we have before hinted. These two parts belong to two several Dioceses; the former to Chester, the latter to Carlisle. In each we find, with two Wards, several Deanries, Parishes, and Constablewicks; but no Hundreds: possibly, because in ancient times these parts paid no Subsidies, being sufficiently charg'd in Border service against the Scots.
[b] On the south side lies Milthrop, Milthrop. the only sea-town in this County: tho' the commodities which are imported, are brought hither only in small vessels from Grange in Lancashire. And near it, Levens, Levens. where is a fair stone bridge over the river Kent; on the south-side of which river, are still to be seen the ruins of an ancient round building (now call'd Kirks-head) which is said to have been anciently a Temple dedicated to Diana. And not far from it, appear the ruins of another building; which seems to have belong'd to the same place. In the Park (which is well stor'd with Fallow-deer, and almost equally divided by the river Kent) is a spring call'd the Dropping Well, that petrifies moss, wood, leaves, &c.
West from hence lies Witherslack, Witherslack. in which manour, not long since, a fair Parochial Chapel was built and endow'd by Dr. John Barwick late Dean of St. Pauls, a native of the place; consecrated by Dr. Wilkins late Bish. of Chester, June 22. 1671. and dedicated to S Paul. The Charity was so much the greater, because of its remoteness from Betham the Parish-Church.
[c] Next, the river carries us to Kendal, Kendal. which Queen Elizabeth, in the 18th year of her reign, incorporated by the name of Aldermen and Burgesses. But afterwards, in the reign of King James 1. (An. Reg. 11.) it was incorporated by the name of a Mayor, twelve Aldermen, and twenty four Burgesses. Besides the Lords and Earls, since our Author's time, it hath also had its Dukes, which title it gave first to Charles Stuart, (third son to James Duke of York, afterwards King James 2.) declar'd Duke of Kendal in the year 1664.
[d] Not far from hence is Water-Crooke (so call'd from a remarkable crooking in the river,) where upon the east-side of that river, is an old square fort, the banks and ditches whereof are still visible. That it was Roman, the discovery of Coins, broken Altars, and other pieces of Antiquity, will not give us leave to make the least scruple of: which if our Author had found, 'tis possible he might have six'd the Concangii rather here than in any other place; because in the Notitia it is plac'd, as it were, in the very middle of the Northern Stations. For whereas between York and Derwent, it speaks of 14 Stations, the Concangii is the 7th; and the very next that come [Page 811-812] after it are Lavatrae (Bowes,) Verterae (Brough,) and Brovoniacum (Browham:) both the two last in this County, and the first upon the edge of it.
[e] At the Amboglana, Amboglana which, our Author says, might possibly be at Ambleside, the Tribunus Coh primae Aeliae Dacorum, resided. As the name would induce us not to seek it in any other place; so would the Antiquities that have been discover'd there, both before and since his time, perswade us to throw away all scruple in this point. But there are two things which stand in our way: the first, that we are directed by the Notitia to seek it ad Lineam Valli; the second, that Mr. Camden himself has sixt it at Willyford in Cumberland, where, without all doubt, the Cohors prima Aelia Dacorum had their abode, as appears from several Inscriptions that have been found at a little distance on the other side of the river. How to reconcile those two opinions, and Mr. Camden to himself, is the difficulty. Perhaps it cannot be done more plausibly, than by supposing that this Ambleside might be the chief station or standing-quarters; and that the other (not Willowford, but the Bank end; and pe [...]haps the bridge there over the river which they w [...]e to defend) was possibly the Fort assign'd them, w [...]en they were call'd out upon extraordinary occasion [...] to defend the Picts-wall. For we cannot imagine, [...] Troops that were quarter'd t [...]e [...]e on purpose to [...] the Enemy, knew their particular Posts, as well [...] their place and employments in their Camps and [...]ntrenchments. And this Post they might possibly en [...]gh mark out by Inscriptions and Altars.
But it will be objected, That the Notitia places [...]g [...]ana, Ad Lineam Valli: which yet may be so constru'd, as not strictly to imply the Line or Track of the Wall it self, but only to signifie the Line of Communication which several Auxiliaries had with those who were quarter'd upon the Picts wall.
Among other pieces of Antiquity discover'd about this old Work at Ambleside, were several Medals of gold, silver, and copper, some of which are in that Collection which Mr. Thomas Brathwate of Ambles [...]de gave by Deed (dated 26 Nov. 1674.) to the Library of the University of Oxford.
A little mile north of Ambleside, is Ridal-hall,Ridal. a convenient large ancient house: in which Lordship is a very high Mountain call'd Ridall-head, from the top whereof one has a large prospect, and, if the day be clear, may see Lancaster-Castle, and much farther. The Manour anciently belong'd to the Family of Lancaster, from whom it descended in the reign of Henry the fourth to the Flemings, who have been Lords of it ever since; the present owner being Sir Daniel Fleming, a great lover of ancient Learning, to whom we are particularly oblig'd for several useful Informations in this County and Lancashire.
[f] Next, we come to the Barony of Westmorland, whereof our Author had given a much more just description, by calling it an open champain Country of Corn-fields, Meadows, and Pastures, mixt with Woods, and as it were hemm'd in by a wall of high Mountains; than by saying, That it shoots out with many windings and turnings, between which there are here and there exceeding deep vallies: which very well suits that part he saw of it, but is not by any means applicable to the rest.
The river Lune rising a little above Rissendale, runs by Lang-gill, where Dr. Barlow late Bishop of Lincoln was born, in April 1607. Afterwards, receiving the river Birkbeck, it runs down by a field call'd Gallaber; where there stands aBandreth-stone. red stone, about an ell high, with two Crosses cut deep on one side. The tradition among the Inhabitants, is, that formerly it was the Merestone between the English and Scots. How true it may be, I dare not affirm: but only observe that it is about the same distance from Scotland that Rere-cross upon Stane-more is; and to what end that was erected, Mr. Camden has told us. To prevent also the Incursions of that people, there is an artificial Mount call'd Castle-haw, near Tebay (where is a Free-school endow'd by Mr. Adamson, born at Rownthwait; who was likwise a great Benefactor to Orton-Church) and another at Greenholme; which two, command the two great Roads.
A little above Rownthwait, on the north-side of Jeffrey-mount, is a little Spring call'd Goud-sike, which continually casts up small silver-like pieces resembling spangles: what should be the cause, is left to Naturalists to determine.
This Parish of Orton, in the year 1612. purchas'd all the Tithes belonging to the Rectory, with the Advowson and Pationage of its Vicaridge, for ever. For which they paid 570 pounds, subscrib'd by the Parishioners. Hereabouts, they commonly dig up in their wet Mosses such Subterraneous Trees, as are met with in some other parts of England.
[g] Pendragon-CastlePen [...]a [...]n Castle. was not a heap of great stones, in Mr. Camden's time; when the walls, being four yards in thickness (with battlements upon them) were standing, till the year 1660 that the most noble Lady, the Lady Ann Clifford, Countess Dowager of Pembroke, Dorset, and Montgomery, repair'd this ancient house of her Ancestors, with three more Castles which she had in this County; and removing frequently from one to another, kept hospitality, and diffus'd her Charity all over the Country. This Castle is washt on the East by the river Eden; and on the other sides there are great trenches, as if the first builder had intended to draw the water round it. But the attempt prov d ineffectual, from whence they have an old rhyme hereabouts,
[h] The Barons of Wharton are still possess'd of Wharton-hall. Wha [...]-ha [...]. Philip, the last Baron mention'd by our Author, was succeeded in this Honour by Philip his grandchild (son of Sir Thomas his eldest son, who dy'd in his father's life time) who still enjoys it.
[i] Instead of saying with our Author, that the Musgraves Musg [...] were so calld from the towns of that name, 'tis more probable the towns had their name from the Family. For the name of Musgrave is to be reckon'd among those, which have been taken from Offices, and Civil or Military Honours; and is of the like original as Landtgraff, Markgraff, Burggraff, &c. among the Germans. And indeed, this name and Markgraff (now turn'd into Marquis) are probably the same. The signification of both is Dux Limitaneus; and anciently Musgrave, or Mosgrave, was all one as in our later language, a Lord Warden of the Marches. 'Tis therefore no Compliment to this honourable Family, to foist the name (as some have done) into one or two Copies of Battle-Abbey-Roll; having enough of true old English honour, and not needing to borrow any of its lustre from the Normans. Yet even this opinion, if it should prevail, destroys our Author's, that the Family of the Musgraves had their name from these villages.
[k] Not far from hence, is Brough, [...] consisting at present of two good villages: Upper, otherwise Church-Brough, where the Church standeth, whereof Robert Eglesfield, Founder of Queens-College in Oxford, was Rector, and procur'd the appropriation thereof from King Edward the third to the said College. Here also stands the Castle of Brough, and a tower call'd Caesar's tower; which is probably the Propugnaculum our Author speaks of, because the Castle was in his time raz'd to the ground (the walls of the Tower only remaining,) which was lately rebuilt by the Countess of Pembroke, before-mention'd. Near the bridge there is a Spaw-well, lately discover'd by the present Vicar of the place, the Reverend Mr. John Harrison. The other village is call'd Lower-Brough from its situation, and Market-brough from a Market held there every Thursday.
[l] The next old town is Apleby, A [...]. which hath several testimonies of its ancient splendour, tho' at present it be very much decay'd. Henry the first gave them privileges equal to York; that City's Charter being granted (as 'tis said) in the fore-noon, and this in the afternoon. Henry the second granted them another Charter of the like Immunities; and Henry the third (in whose time there was an Exchequer here, call'd Scaccarium de Apleby) a third. Which were in omnibus sicut Eboracum, and confirm'd by the succeeding [Page] Kings of England. When it was first govern'd by a Mayor, does not appear; but 'tis certain that in the reign of Edward the first they had a Mayor and two Provosts (which seem to have been formerly men of principal note, i.e. Sheriffs, or the same as we now call Bailiffs; and sign'd the publick Acts of the Town along with the Mayor [...]; tho' at present they only attend the body of the Mayor with two Halberds.) Brompton makes mention of Apleby-schire, which should seem to imply that at that time it had Sheriffs of its own, as most Citie [...] had; though we now call them Bailiffs. For in the second year of Edward the first, in a confirmation-Charter to Shap-Abbey, we find this Subscription, Teste Thomâ filio Johannis, tunc Vice-Comite de Apelby. Unless one should [...], that Westmoreland was call'd the County of Apelby, or Apelby-schire, as indeed Brompton seems to intimate.
But the Scotch-wars by degrees reduc'd it to a much lower condition. [...] In the 22th of Henry the second it was set on fire by them: and again, in the 1 [...]th of Richard the second, when of 2200 Burgages (by due computation of the Fee-farm-rents) there remain'd not above a tenth part, as appears by Inquisitions in the Town-chest. Since which, it never recover'd it self, but lay as it were dismember'd and s [...]atter'd one street from another, like so many several villages; and one could not know, but by Records, that they belong'd to the same body. For which reason it is, that Mr. Camden mentions no more than Burgh-gate; whereas Bongate, Battle-burgh, Dungate, Scattergate, are all of them members of this ancient Town: and probably the Burrals also; which may be an evidence of its having been wall'd round (that word implying Burrow-walls;) and the rather, because at Bath in Somersetshire, they call the town walls by the same name of Burrals. Concerning the condition and misfortunes of this place, take this Inscription, placed in the Garden belonging to the School-house, amongst many others of Roman antiquity, collected by Mr. Bainbrigg, of whom our Author makes an honourable mention: ‘ABALLABA QVAM C. C.
FLVIT ITVNA. STATIO FVIT
RO. TEM. MAVR. AVREL.
HANC VASTAVIT. FF
GVIL. R. SCOT. 1176.
HIC PESTISSAEVIT 1598.
OPP. DESERT. MERCATVS
AD GILSHAVGHLIN F.
DEVM TIME.’
The CC. in the first line, is Circumfluit: the F F in the fourth, Funditus: and the F in the end, Fuit. So that here we have its situation, its Roman Antiquity, and the devastations made in it by War and Pestilence; together with the remove of the Market to Gilshaughlin. four or five miles north-west of the town. 'Tis said that the present Earl of Thanet (whose Ancestors on the mother's side, the Viponts and Cliffords, have been Lords of this Country, and flourish'd at Apelby for above 480. years) designs to set up and encourage the Cloath-working-trade in this town.
[m] The endowment made to the School by the two persons mention'd in our Author, was far short of what has been added since by some modern Benefactors; the chief whereof was Dr. Thomas Smith the present Bishop of Carlisle: who particularly, along with Mr. Rand. Sanderson, erected a new dwelling house for the use of the School-master.
[...] castle[n] From Apleby the river carries us to Buley-Castle, which is now set in farm to the Musgraves; but was (no doubt) formerly a seat of the Bishops of Carlisle, as our Author observes. For it is said to have been erected at several times by two or three Bishops; and there is still in being, an account of several Ordinations held there.
[...]Next, Eden runs to Crakenthorp hall, a pleasant seat the East-side of it; where the chief branch of the Machels (a family of good note in this Country)G [...]illan [...]s Heraldry. have always resided from the Conquest downwards to this very day; nor do any Records afford an account how much longer they have flourish'd here. The present Lord of the Manour of Crakenthorp is Hugh Michel Esq And as the place is memorable on account of this uninterrupted succession for so many ages; so is it also for the admirable Camps which lye near it; and the Antiquities discover'd thereabouts, which (with others found in these parts) are carefully collected and preserv'd by Mr. Thomas Machel, (brother to the said Hugh, and Minister of Kirkby-Thore) in order to his intended Antiquities of this County.
[o] What our Author has said also of the Antiquities of Kirby-thore, Kirkby-thore. has been farther confirm'd by Urns, Inscriptions, &c. so that we have no occasion to go along with him in straining the old name Whelp-Castle, where they are found, to some congruity with the old Gallagum, by calling it Wheallep. Nor indeed cannot be allow'd; this never appearing either in Records or common talk: whereas, that of Whelp-castle, is justify'd not only by both these, but also by one Whelp who was Lord of this place about the Conquest, and left the name to it.
That the old Saxon God Thor (from whom our Thursday is call'd) had a Temple he [...]e, is plainly imply'd in the p esent name Kirbythûre, but writ in old Records Kirkbythore, and sometimes Kirkby-Th [...]r. Of the manner of Worship, and magnificence of the Temple of this God Thor among the Sax [...]ns, we need not be particular, because it is already done to our handsVerstegan's Antiq.. But a new discovery having been lately made of a curious Rarity relating to this Idol and communicated by the ingenious Mr. Ralph Thoresby to some learned Gentlemen, for their opinion, (particularly to Mr. Nicolson Arch-deacon of Carlisle) we cannot but observe something of it, and of their thoughts about it. The shape is this:
'Tis a Coin about the bigness of a silver Groat: but the best Danish Antiquaries are of opinion, that no currant money was ever minted in these Northern Kingdoms till the Runick Character was laid aside. So that, tho' it be true that they sometimes meet with pieces of Silver, of the like fashion with this before us; Ast ego (says Tho. Bartholine T. F. who speaks the sense of all the rest of them) Amuletorum quoddam genus, &c. i.e. But for my part, I look upon them to have been a sort of Amulets, us'd as Magical Spells; having learnt from our Antiquities that our Pagan Ancestors had certain portable pieces of gold or silver, with their Gods represented upon them in a human face. By these they foretold what was to come; and lookt upon them as their Tutelar Deities, which (so long as they kept them) would assure them of safety and prosperity. Now its probable, that this may prove one of these Amulets. For the imagery gives us a human visage with a glory surrounding his head, &c. And the account whichNotes upon Saxo Grammaticus. Stephanius (with some others of his learned Country-men) has left us of their God Thor, is this. That (in the posture they worship'd him) he had Caput flamma circumdatum, &c. i.e. his head surrounded with a flame like a Sun; just as Painters us'd to adorn the heads of their Gods. In his hand they paint a Scepter, or (as others will have it) a golden Malleum. mallet. A description so agreeable to the figure represented, that it could never have been more exact, tho' it had been copy'd from this Original. But the Runick Characters on the Reverse put the matter beyond all dispute: for these words are fairly legible;
If there were any occasion for a farther illustration, the figures of the Half-moon and Stars might serve for a comment. For the old Gothick Nations had the same opinion of their mighty God Thor, as the Phoenicians had of their Sun, their [...], cujus nutum Planetae reliquáque sidera observabant. This was the Deity the old Pagan Saxons ador'd above all other Gods.
[p] Upon our Author's mention of the Roman Way, it may not be unseasonable to give you the course of it through this County. First then it passes through a large Camp where the stone of King Marius formerly stood; instead whereof there is another erected call'd Rere-Cross. Thence through Maiden-Castle, a small square fort, in which there has been found some Roman mortar: next, it runs quite through Market-Brough, over Brough-Fair-hill, on which there are some tumuli, barrows, or ancient burying-places. Then, leaving Warcop, (a pretty village which gave name to the Warcops) on the left-hand, it passes along Sandford-moor; and so down a delicate horse-race to Cowplandbeck brig; where, on the right, are the ruin'd foundations of a noble round tower; and near it on the left, Ormside-hall, the seat of the ancient family of Hiltons. Then by Apleby to the Camps upon Crackenthorp-moor; so through the Down end of Kirkby-Thore, and through Sawerby, a village of the Dalstons of Akernbank: so all along by the side of Whinfeld-Park to Hart-horn-tree, which may seem to give name to Hornby-hall, the seat of the Birkbecks, and to have borrow'd its own from a Stag which was cours'd by a single Grey-hound to the Red Kirk in Scotland, and back again to this place, where, being both of them spent, the Stag leapt the pales, but dy'd on the other side; and the Grey-hound attempting to leap, fell, and dy'd on this side Whence they nail'd up their heads upon the tree; and (the dog's name being Hercules) they made this rhyme upon them:
In the midst of the Park, not far from hence, is the three-brether-tree (so call'd because there were three of them, whereof this was the least) in circumference 13 yards and a quarter a good way from the root. From Hart-horn-tree, the way goeth directly westward to the Countess pillar, erected by Anne Countess Dowager of Penbroke, and adorn'd with Coats of Arms, Dials, &c. with an Obelisk on the top colour d with black; and this Inscription in brass declaring the occasion and meaning:
THIS PILLAR WAS ERECTED ANNO 1656. BY THE RIGHT HONO. ANNE COUNTESS DOWAGER OF PENBROKE. AND SOLE HEIR OF THE RIGHT HONORABLE GEORGE EARL OF CUMBERLAND, &c. FOR A MEMORIAL OF HER LAST PARTING IN THIS PLACE WITH HER GOOD AND PIOUS MOTHER THE RIGHT HONORABLE MARGARET COUNTESS DOWAGER OF CUMBERLAND. THE SECOND OF APRIL 1616. IN MEMORY WHEREOF SHE ALSO LEFT AN ANNUITY OF FOUR POUNDS TO BE DISTRIBUTED TO THE POOR WITHIN THIS PARISH OF BROUGHAM EVERY SECOND DAY OF APRIL FOR EVER UPON THE STONE TABLE HERE BY.
LAUS DEO.
From this pillar the Way carries us to Brougham [...]st [...] venerable pile of ancient building; the Antiquity whereof assign'd it by our Author, has been since confirm'd by the discovery of several Coins, Altars, and other testimonies. From hence the Way leads us directly to Lowther-bridge, and so over Emot into Cumberland.
[q] But now to return and go along with our Author. The Inscription at Crawdundalewaith i [...] not altogether as Mr. Camden has represented it, being drawn from the very rock by the curious Mr. Machel, in the following form:
The two upper lines are cut very deep; but the two lower with a lighter hand, and in a much finer and more polite Character. For which reason, he concludes them to be different Inscriptions; and that the rudeness of the characters in the first must needs argue it to be of much greater Antiquity. And what may the more induce us to believe them two distinct Inscriptions, is the writing of the letter A, which in Varronius wants the cross-stroak, and so answers Mr. Camden's observation; whereas all the three in the two last lines are according to the common way of writing, tho' otherwise represented in our Author.
[r] That the calling of the Legions into these parts from their proper stations, might be the occasion of these Inscriptions, is a conjecture plausible enough. But what if one should say, that this was the place which afforded the Romans a supply of stones for their buildings hereabouts; and that upon this account the Inscriptions were left here? The truth of the matter of fact appears from the stones dug up out of the Foundations at Kirkby-thore, most whereof did certainly come from hence; and that upon those occasions they us'd to leave Inscriptions behind them, is confirm'd by the like instances both in Helbeck Scar, by the river Gelt; and on Leuge-Crag near Naward-Castle in Gilsland, from whence they had their stone for the Picts-wall.
[s] And doubtless there have been more Letters here, tho' now defac'd. For Mr. Machel looking upon a rock just above this, to discover that other (mention'd by Mr. C [...]mden to be in vicinâ rupe,) spy'd the following one, not observ'd before.
[t] Such intermittent Springs as our Author mentions near Shap, are no rarities in hollow and rocky Countries; tho' perhaps not so commonly observ'd as they might be. The cause of this unconstant breaking out of their streams, is purely fortuitous; and therefore the effect is not always very lasting, [Page 817-818] nor is there any ebbing-fountain at present to be heard of near Shap.
[u] The river Loder runs by Bampton, where is a Free-school built and endow'd by Dr. John Sutton, an eminent Divine in his time; and so by a place of its own name, where the Lowthers do still continue. The present possessor, the right honourable Sir John Lowther, has built a stately new house, in the place of the old one; which was a strong fabrick, with two fair Towers.
[w] A little before Loder joyns the Emot, it passes by a large round entrenchment, with a plain piece of ground in the middle, and a passage into it on either side; the form whereof is this:
It goes by the name of King Arthur's Round-Table: and 'tis possible enough that it might be a Justing-place; for which reason we have represented the two Warriours on horse-back in the middle. However, that it was never design'd for a place of strength, appears from the trenches being on the in-side. Near this, is another great Fort of Stones, heap'd up in form of a horse-shoe, and opening towards it; call'd by some King Arthur's Castle, and by others Mayburgh (or as vulgarly Maybrough) which probably is but a modern name.
[x] Then the Loder joyns Emot, which runs by Barton, [...] a very large parish, reaching from the bounds of Rydal and Ambleside on the south, to the river Loder on the north. They have a School well endow'd by that learned and great man, Dr. Gerard Langbain, late Provost of Queen's College in Oxford, and a native of this parish.
[...] of [...]mor [...]dRalph de Nevil, the first Earl of Westmorland, was Lord Marshal of England in 1398. in which name and family the honour continu'd for 6 descents, till the year 1584. From which time, it lay dead, till K. James 1. in the year 1624. advanc'd Francis Fane (as a Descendant of the said Nevils) to the dignity of Earl of Westmorland: whose posterity do still enjoy it, that title being at present vested in the right honorable Vere Fane.
More rare Plants growing in Westmorland.
Adiantum petraeum perpusillum Anglicum foliis bifidis vel trifidis. Small moss-Maidenhair with leaves divided into two or three segments. Found by Mr. Newton and Mr. Lawson on Buzzard rough crag near Wrenose. Dr. Plukenet in his Phytography hath figured this, and intitled it Adiantum radicosum erectius, foliis imis bisectis, caeteris verò integris tenuissimè crenatis: distinguishing it from that found by Mr. George Daire near Tunbridge in Kent; which he calls Adianthum radicosum globuliferum, humi sparsum. I am now of opinion, that neither of them are any species of Adiantum, but meer mosses.
Allium fylvestre amphicarpon, foliis porraceis, floribus & nucleis purpureis. An Allium seu Moly montanum primum Clus.? Broad-leav'd mountain Garlick with purple flowers. In Troutbeck-holm by great Strickland.
Bistorta minor nostras Park. Alpina minor C. B. minima J. B. Small Bistort or Snakeweed. In several places of this County, as at Crosby Ravensworth. See Yorkshire.
Crataeogonon foliis brevibus obtusis Westmorlandicum. Eye-bright-Cow-wheat with short blunt leaves. Near Orton beside a rivulet running by the way that leads thence to Crosby,
Cerasus avium sive Padus Theophrasti. Birds Cherry: common among the mountains as well in this Country as in Yorkshire; where see the Synonymes.
Cerasus sylvestris fructu minimo cordiformi P. B. The least wild Heart-cherry tree, vulgarly called the Merry-tree. About Rosgill.
Chamaecistus seu Helianthemum folio Pilosellae minoris Fuchsi J. B. (The Pilosella minor Fuchsii is nothing but Mountain-Cudweed or Catsfoot) Hoary dwarf mountain Cistus or Holy-rose, with Catsfoot leaves. Found by Mr. Newton on some rocks near Kendale.
Gentianella fugax verna seu praecox. Dwarf Vernal Gentian. Found by Mr. Fitz-Roberts on the backside of Helse-fell-nab near Kendall; as also in the Parks on the other side of Kendal on the back of Birkhog. It begins to flower in April, and continues to flower till June.
Geranium batrachiodes flore eleganter variegato. Crowfoot Cranesbill with a particoloured flower. In old Deer-park by Thornthwait. This, though it may be but an accidental variety, yet is so ornamental to a garden, that it deserves to be taken notice of.
Geranium batrachoides montanum nostras. Mountain-Crowfoot-Cranesbill. In the hedges and among the bushes in the mountainous meadows and pastures of this County no less than in Yorkshire.
Filix saxatilis caule tenui fragili. Adiantum album folio Filicis J. B. Stone Fern with slender brittle stalks and finely-cut leaves. On old stone walls and rocks plentifully.
Filicula petraea crispa seu Adiantum album floridum perelegans. Small flowering Stone-fern. At the bottom of stone walls made up with earth in Orton-parish and other places plentifully.
Filix ramosa minor J. B. Saxatilis ramosa, nigris punctis notata C. B. Pumila saxatilis prima Clusii Park. Dryopteris Tragi Ger. The lesser branched fern. On the sides of the mountains, in shady places especially.
Gladiolus lacustris Dortmanni Clus. cur. post. Leucoium palustre flore subcoeruleo C. B. Gladiolus lacustris Clusii sive Leucoium palustre flore coeruleo Bauhini Park. Water Gladiole. In a pool call'd Huls-water, and in Winander-mere plentifully.
Gramen sparteum spicâ foliaceâ gramineâ majus P. B. Grass upon grass. In an Isle call'd House-holm in Huls-water.
Gramen juncoides lanatum alterum Danicum Park. Item Gr. junceum montanum spicâ subcoeruleâ Cambro-Britannicum ejusdem. Juncus Alpinus cum caudâ leporina J. B. Alpinus capitulo lanuginoso sive Schoenolaguros C. B. Hares-tail-rush or Moss-crops. On Mosses and boggy places.
Helleborine minor flore albo Park. The lesser white flower'd bastard Hellebore. In Sir John Lowther's Wood, directly against Askham-hall.
Hieracium fruticosum latifolium glabrum Park. The smoother broad leav'd bushy Hawkweed. Near a Lake call'd Huls-water.
Hieracium macrocaulon hirsutum folio rotundiore D. Lawson. An Hierac. fruticosum folio subrotundo C. B. Round-leav'd rough Hawkweed with a long stalk. By Buckbarrow-well in long Sledale.
Hieracium [...] hirsutum folio rotundiore D. Lawson. On the rocks by the rivulet between Shap and Anna-well.
Juncus parvus calamo seu scapo supra paniculam compactam longiùs producto Newtoni. Small rush with the shaft produced to a great length above its compact panicle. Not far from Ambleside.
Juniperus Alpina J. B. Clus. Park. Mountain dwarf Juniper, called by the Country people Savine, as well here as in Wales. Upon the tops of the Mountains.
Lilium convallium angustifolium D. Lawson. Narrow-leav'd Lilly-convally. By Water-fall-bridge and elsewhere in this County.
Meum Ger. vulgatius Park. foliis Anethi C. B. Meu vulgare, seu Radix ursina J. B. Common Spignell or Meu. About two miles from Sedberg in the way to Orton abundantly in the meadows and pastures, where it is known to all the Country people by the name of Bald-money, or (as they pronounce it) Bawd-money, the reason of which name I could not fish out.
Oxalis seu Acetosa rotundifolia repens Eboracensis folio in medio deliquium patiente Moris. Hist. Round-leav'd Mountain-sorrel. Observ'd by Mr. Lawson on the Mountains of this County; and by Mr. Fitz-Roberts in Long Sledale near Buckbarrow-well, and all along the rivulet that runs by the Well for a mile or more. This never degenerates into the common Roman or French Sorrel.
Persicaria siliquosa Ger. Noli me tangere J. B. Mercurialis sylvestris, Noli me tangere dicta, sive Persicaria siliquosa Park. Balsamine lutea, sive Noli me tangere C. B. Codded Arsmart, Quick in hand, Touch me not. I observ'd it growing plentifully on the banks of Winander-mere near Ambleside, and in many other places.
Rubia erecta quadrifolia J. B. Cross-wort-madder. Near Orton, Winander-mere, and elsewhere in this County plentifully.
Salix folio laureo sive lato glabro odorato P. B. Bay-leav'd sweet Willow. Frequent by the river-sides in the meadows among the Mountains.
Tormentilla argentea Park. Alpina folio sericeo C. B. Pentaphyllum seu potiùs Heptaphyllum argenteum flore muscoso J. B. Pentaphyllum petrosum, Heptaphyllum Clusii Ger. Vera & genuina Alchymillae species est. Cinquefoil Ladies-mantle. On the rocks by the side of the Lake call'd Huls-water, or as some write it Ulles-water.
To these I might add, Lunaria minor ramosa, & Lunaria minor foliis dissectis; That is, branched Moon-wort, and cut-leav'd Moon-wort, both observ'd by Mr. Lawson at great Strickland; though they be (I suppose) but accidental varieties.
Vitis Idaea magna, sive Myrtillus grandis J. B. The great Billberry Bush. In the forest of Whinfield. Mr. Lawson.
CƲMBERLAND.
BEfore Westmoreland, to the West, is stretched out Cumberland, in Latin Cumbria, the farthest County in this part of England, as bounding upon Scotland to the North, encompass'd by the Irish-sea on the South and West, and on the East, above Westmoreland, bordering upon Northumberland. The name it had from the Inhabitants; who were the true and genuine Britains, and call'd themselves in their own language Kumbri and Kambri. For that the Britains, in the heat of the Saxon wars, posted themselves here for a long time, we have the authority of our Histories, and of Marianus himself, who calls this County Cumbrorum terra, i.e. the Land of the Cumbri. Not to mention the many names of places purely British; such are, Caer-luel, Caer-dronoc, Pen-rith, Pen-rodoc, &c. which are a plain evidence of the thing, and a pregnant proof of my assertion [a].
The Country, tho' the Northern situation renders it cold, and the Mountains, rough and uneven, has yet a variety which yields a prospect very agreeable1. For afterVerrucosas. swelling rocks, and the crowding mountains, big (as it were) with Metals, (between which are Lakes stor'd with all sorts of wild Fowl,) you come to rich hills cloath'd with flocks of sheep, and below them are spread out pleasant large plains, which are tolerably fruitful. The Ocean also, which beats upon this shore, affords great plenty of the best fish, and as it were upbraids the Inhabitants with their idleness, in not applying themselves closer to the fishing trade.
The South part of this County is call'd Copeland Copeland. and Coupland, because it rears up its head with sharp mountains, call'd by the Britains Kopa; or (as others will have it) Copeland, as if one should say, Copperland, from the rich veins of Copper. In this part, at the sandy mouth of the river Duden, by which it is divided from Lancashire, is Millum, Millum-Castle. a Castle of the ancient family of the Hodlestons [b]. From whence the shore wheeling to the North, comes to Ravenglas, Raveng [...]as a harbour for ships, and commodiously surrounded with two rivers; where (as I have been told) were found Roman Inscriptions. Some will have it formerly call'd Aven-glas, as if one should say, an Caert [...] azure sky-colour'd river; and tell you abundance of stories about one King Eveling, who had his Palace here. The one of these rivers, Esk, rises at the foot of Hard-knott, Hard-k [...]t. a steep ragged mountain; on the top whereof were lately dug up huge stones and the foundation of a Castle, not without great admiration, considering the mountain is so steep that one can hardly get up it [c]. Higher up, the little brook Irt Irt [...]er. runs into the Sea; wherein the shell-fish, gaping and eagerly sucking in its dewy streams, conceive and bring forth Pearls, or (to use the Poet's name) Shell-berries [d].Pearls See Pliny. These the Inhabitants gather up at low water; and the Jewellers buy them of the poor people for a trifle, but sell them at a good price. Of these and such like, Marbodaeus seems to speak in that verse of his:
From hence, the shore runs by little and little to the westward, and makes a small Promontory, commonly call'd S. Bees, Bees. instead of S. Bega. For Bega, a pious and religious Irish Virgin, led a solitary life there: and to her sanctity they ascribe the Miracles of taming a Bull, and of a deep Snow that by her Prayers fell on Midsummer-day, and cover'd the valleys and tops of mountains [e]. Scarce a mile from hence is Egremont-Castle, [...]emont- [...]stae. upon a hill, formerly the seat of William de Meschines, upon whom King Henry the first bestow'd it, [...]rds of [...]eland. [...]. to hold by one Knight's Service, who should be ready upon the King's Summons to serve in the wars of Wales and Scotland. He left a daughter, the wife of William Fitz-Duncan, of the Blood-Royal of Scotland; by whose daughter also the estate came to the family of the Lucies: and from them by the Moltons and Fitz-Walters, the title of Egremont descended to the Radcliffs Earls of Sussex. Notwithstanding,2 Th. Percy by the favour of King Henry the sixth, enjoy'd that title for some time, and was summon'd to Parliament by the name of Thomas Percy of Egremont.
[...].From S. Bees the Shore draws it self in by little and little; and (as appears by the ruins) has been fortify'd by the Romans in all such places as were convenient for landing. For this was the utmost bound of the Roman Empire; and the Scots, when like some deluge out of Ireland they pour'd in upon our Island, met with the greatest opposition upon this coast. 'Tis very probable that the little village Moresby, [...]. where is now a harbour for ships, was one of these Forts. There are many remains of Antiquity about it in the Vaults and Foundations of Buildings; several Caverns which they call Picts-holes; several pieces of stones dug up with Inscriptions. Upon one of them is LVCIVS SEVERINVS ORDINATVS. Upon another COH. VII. And I saw this Altar lately dug up there, with a horned little image of Silvanus.
COH. I I. LING
CVI PRAEES—
G. POMPEIVS M —
SATVRNIN—
As also this fragment, which was copy'd out and sent me by Mr. J. Fletcher, Lord of the Place.
—
OB PROSPE
RITATEM
CVLMINIS
INSTITVTI.
[...].But there has been none yet found to encourage one to believe that this was the Morbium, where the Equites Cataphractarii quarter'd; tho' the present name seems to imply it. Nor must I omit the mention of Hay-Castle, [...]tle. which I saw in the neighbourhood, very venerable for its antiquity; and which the Inhabitants told me belong'd formerly to the noble families of Moresby and Dissinton.
After this, the river Derwent falls into the Ocean; which rising in Borrodale (a Vale surrounded with crooked hills) runs among the mountains call'd Derwent-fells, wherein at Newlands and other places, some rich veins of Copper, [...]. not without a mixture of Gold and Silver, were found in our age by Thomas Thurland and Daniel Hotchstetter a German of Auspurg; tho' discover'd a good while before, as appears from the Close Rolls of Henry the third, n. 18. About these there was a memorable Trial between our most Serene Queen Elizabeth, and Thomas Percie Earl of Northumberland and Lord of the Manour; but by virtue of the Royal Prerogative (it appearing that there were also veins of gold and silverVeins of gold and silver.) it was carry'd in favour of the Queen. So far is it from being true, what Cicero has said in his Epistles to Atticus, 'Tis well known that there is not so much as a grain of silver in the Island of Britain. Nor would Caesar, if he had known of these Mines, have told us that the Britains made use of imported Copper; when these and some others afford such plenty, that not only all England is supply'd by them, but great quantities exported yearly. Here is also found abundance of that Mineral-earth or hard shining Stone, which we calla Blacklead, Black-lead. us'd by Painters in drawing their Lines, andMonochromata. shading such pieces as they do in black and white. Which whether it be Dioscorides's Pnigitis, or Melanteria, or Ochre, a sort of earth burnt black, is a point I cannot determine, and so shall leave it to the search of others. The Derwent falling through these mountains, spreads it self into a spacious Lake, call'd by Bede Praegrande stagnum, i.e. a vast pool, wherein are three Islands; one, the seat of the famous family of the Ratcliffs, Knights*; another inhabited by German Miners; and a third suppos'd to be that whereinb Bede tells us St. Herbert led a Hermit's life. Upon the side of this, in a fruitful field, encompass't with wet dewy mountains, and protected from the north-winds by that of Skiddaw, lyes Keswick, Keswick. a little market-town, formerly a place noted for Mines (as appears by a certain Charter of Ed [...]ard the fourth) and at present inhabited by Miners3. The privilege of a Market was procur'd for it of Edward the first by Thomas of Derwent-water, Lord of the place, from whom it hereditarily descended, to the Ratcliffs [f].Skiddaw, a very high mountain. The Skiddaw I mention'd, mounts up almost to the Clouds with its two tops like another Parnassus, and views Scruffelt, a mountain of Anandal Anandal. in Scotland, with a sort of emulation. From the Clouds rising up or falling upon these two mountains, the Inhabitants judge of the weather, and have this rhyme common amongst them:
As also of the height of this and two other mountains in those parts:
From thence the Derwent, sometimes broad and sometimes narrow, rowls on to the North in great haste, to receive the river Cokar. Which two rivers at their meeting almost surround Cokarmouth, Cokarmouth. a populous well-traded market-town, where is a Castle of the Earls of Northumberland. 'Tis a town neatly built, but of a low situation between two hills: upon one is the Church; and upon thec other over against it, a very strong Castle, on the gates whereof are the Arms of the Moltons, Humfranvills, Lucies, and Percies. Over against this, on the other side of the river,Ad alterum milliare. at some two miles distance, are the ruins of an old Castle, call'd Pap-castle, the Roman Antiquity whereof is attested by several Monuments. Whether this is the Guasmoric; Guasmoric. which Ninnius tells us King Guortigern [Page] built near Lugaballia, and that it was by the old Saxons call'd Palm-castle, I will not determine. Here, among other Monuments of Antiquity, was found a large open vessel of greenish stone, with several little images curiously engraven upon it: which, whether it was an Ewer to wash in,S. Ambrose, Baptisterium. or a Font (call'd by S. Austin Sacrarium Regenerationis, the sacred Laver of Regeneration) to which use it is now employ'd at Bridkirke (i.e. the Church of St. Bridget) hard by it, I cannot say. Only,Pauli [...] we read that the Fonts were anciently adorn'd with the pictures of Holy Men, whose Lives were propos'd as a pattern to such as were baptiz'd4. Beside the pictures, there are these strange Characters visible upon it.
But what they mean, and to what nation they belong, let the learned determine, for 'tis all mystery to me. The first and the eighth are not much unlike that, whereby from Constantine the Great's time the Christians express'd the name of Christ. The rest, in shape not in power, come nearest to those upon the tomb of Gormon the Danish King at Ielling in Denmark, which Petrus Lindebergius publish'd in the year 1591. [g].
The places last mention'd, with the fourth part of the Barony of Egremond, Wigton, Leusewater, Aspatric, Uldal, &c. were the large inheritance of Mawd Lucy, heir of Anthony Molton or de Lucy her brother; which she gave to Henry Percy Earl of Northumberland, her husband. For tho' she had no issue by him, yet she left the family of the Percies her heir, upon condition they should bear the Arms of the Lucies, namely,Arms of the Lucies and Percies. Three pikes or Lucy-fish in a field gules, quarterly with their own: or, to use the words of the original Instrument, Upon condition of bearing her Arms in a field gules three Pikes or Lucies, quarter'd with those of the Percies Or, a Lion azure;* and the condition enforc'd by a Fine.
After these rivers are united, the Derwent falls into the sea at Wirkinton, Wirkinton. famous for Salmon-fishing. 'Tis now the seat of the ancient family of the Curwens Knights, descended from Gospatrick Earl of Northumberland;Culwen, commonly Curwen. who took this name, by covenant, from Culwen a family of Galloway, the heiress whereof they had marry'd. Here they have a most stately castlelike seat; and from this family (excuse me from vanity) I my self am descended by the mother's side.
Some are of opinion, that for about four miles from hence,Under Honorius and Arcadius. Stilico5 made a Wall in such places as were convenient for landing, when the Scots from Ireland infested this coast. For thus Claudian makes Britain speak of her self:
And thus, pieces of broken walls continue to the mouth of Elen, now Elne; which within a little of its head hath Ierby, Ierby. a considerable market. I am of opinion, this was the Arbeia Arbe [...] Ele [...] roug [...] where the Barcarii Tigrienses were garison'd. At its mouth it has Elenborrough, i.e. a burrough upon the Elen, where the first Cohort of the Dalmatians, with their Commander, were garrison'd6. It was situated on a pretty high hill, from whence is a large prospect into the Irish-sea; but now Corn grows where the Town stood. Yet there are still plain remains of it; the old Vaults are open'd, and several Altars, Stones with Inscriptions, and Statues, are dug up. These, that worthy Gentleman Mr. J. Sinhous (in whose Fields they are dug up) keeps very religiously, and has plac'd them regularly in his house-walls. In the middle of the yard, there stands a beautiful square Altar of red stone, the work whereof is old and very curious; 'tis about five foot high, and the characters upon it are exceeding fair. But take the figure of it on all sides, as it was curiously drawn by Sir Robert Cotton of Connington Kt, a great admirer of Antiquities; when he and I, with a design to illustrate our native Country, took a survey of these parts in the year of our Lord 1599. not without the greatest satisfaction to our selves. I could not but make an honourable mention of the Gentleman I just now spoke of; not only because he entertain'd us with the utmost civility, but also because he has a great veneration for Antiquities (wherein he is well skill'd,) and with great diligence preserves such Inscriptions as these, which by other ignorant people in those parts are presently broke to pieces, and turn'd to other uses, to the great damage of these studies.
In the Inscription every thing's plain: only in the last line but one ET and AEDES have two letters joyn'd in one. At the bottom 'tis imperfect, possibly to be restor'd thus, DECVRIONVM ORDINEM RESTITVIT, [...]es. l 9. &c. These Decuriones were the same in the Municipia that the Senators were at Rome and in the Colonies. They were so called from Curia the Court, wherein they presided; from whence also they were nam'd Curiales, as having the management of all Court or Civil affairs.
On the back-side of this Altar, and the upper edge of it, you see there is VOLANTII VIVAS. Which two words perplex me; and I can make nothing of them, unless the Decuriones, Equites, and the Plebs (of which three the Municipium consisted) erected it to G. Cornelius Peregrinus (who restor'd the Houses, Temples, and the Decurio's [mention'd in this Inscription;] and this generous person liv'd at Volantium. From which I would conclude (if allowance might be made for a conjecture) that this place was formerly call'd Volantium. Underneath it, are engraven sacrificing-Instruments, a sort of axe and long chopping-knife. On the left-side, a mallet and a jugg: on the right, a patera or goblet, a dish, and a pear (if I apprehend it aright,) tho' others will have it to be a Holy-water-pot. For these were the vessels us'd in their sacrifices; besides others, such as the Cruet, Censer, [...]. the Open pot, the Miter, &c. which I observ'd to be engraven upon some other Altars in those parts. The second Altar express'd here, was dug up at Old-Carlile, and is now in the house of Mr. Barhouse at Ilkirk. It had many Ligatures or connexion of Letters, which the Engraver has given you pretty exactly. It seems to be read thus: ‘Jovi Optimo Maximo. Ala Augusta ob virtutem appellata, cui praeest Publius Aelius, Publii filius Sergia Magnus de Mursa ex Pannonia inferiore Praefectus. Aproniano (& fortasse) Bradua Consulibus.’
The third Altar,Under Commodus, in the year of our Lord 193. inscrib'd to the Local Deity Belatucadrus, is thus to be read: ‘Belatucadro Julius Civilis Optio, id est, Excubiis Praefectus, votum solvit libens merito.’
The fourth is very fair, and has nothing of difficulty in it. 'Tis to be read thus: ‘Diis, Deabusque Publius Posthumius Acilianus Praefectus Cohortis primae Delmatarum.’
Such Altars as these (for we may make our observations upon those Rites, tho' Christianity, that most holy Religion, have abolish'd them) as also their victims and themselves too, they us'd to crown with garlands; to offer frankincense and wine at them, to slay their sacrifices, and to anoint the very Altars.Gentile Altars. Of the extirpation whereof, upon the prevailing of Christianity, thus Prudentius:
At the same place I saw also the following Inscriptions: ‘PRO SA—
ANTONINI A V-PII F—
P. AVLVSPublii filius. P. F. PALATINA
POSTHVMIVS ACILIANVS
PRAEF. COH. I. DELMATAR.’ ‘Diis Manibus.D M
INGENVI. AN. X.
IVL. SIMPLEX PATER
Faciendum curavit.F C.’ ‘D M.
MORI REGIS
FILII HEREDES
EIVS SVBSTITVE
RVNT VIX. A. LXX.’ ‘HIC EXSEGERE FATA
—ENVS SC GERMA-
—S REG VIX. AN—
S VIX AN —
—IX—’ ‘D M
LVCA. VIX
ANN
IS XX.’ ‘D M
IVLIA MARTIM
A. VIX. AN
XII III D. XX H.’
There is also a Stone very curiously engraven7, upon which are two winged Genii supporting a Garland, in this manner:
After the Shore has run a little way directly from hence, it bends in so with a winding and crooked aestuary or bay, that it seems to be the Moricambe, Moricambe which Ptolemy fixes hereabouts: such an agreement is there between the nature of the place and the [old] name. For this aestuary is crooked, and Moricambe signifies in British a crooked Sea. Upon this is the Abbey of Ulme, or Holme-Cultrain, Holme-Cultraine. founded by David the first, King of Scotland: but Vulstey, a Fortress hard by, was built by the Abbots for the securing of their Books and Charters against the sudden incursions of the Scots. Here, they say, are still preserv'd the Magick-Books of Michael Scot, Michael Scot. but now mouldering to dust. He was a Monk of this place about the year 1290. and apply'd himself so closely to the Mathematicks, and other abstruse parts of Learning, that he was generally lookt upon as a Conjurer: and a vain credulous temper has handed down I know not what Miracles of his. Below this Monastery, the bay receives the little Waver, encreas'd by the Wize, a small river, at the head whereof the melancholy ruins of an ancient City teach us, That nothing in this world is out of the reach of Fate. By the neighbouring Inhabitants it is call'd Old Carlisle; but what its ancient name should be, I know not, unless it was the Castra Exploratorum. Castra [...]plora [...] Of the [...] an: [...] more [...] The P [...] Wal. The distance in Antoninus (who gives us the most considerable places, but does not always go to them by the shortest cut) both from Bulgium and Lugu-vallum answers very well. For spying of an Enemy you could not have a more convenient place; for 'tis seated upon a high hill which commands a free prospect all round the Country.d However, 'tis very certain, that the Ala or Wing (upon the account of its valour nam'd Augusta and Augusta Gordiana) quarter'd here in the time of Gordianus; Ala [...]sta [...]na. as appears by those Inscriptions which I saw in the neighbourhood:At [...] ‘Jovi optimo maxi [...].I O M
ALA AVG. OB
—RTVT. APPEL. CVI
PRAEEST TIB. CL. TIB. F.P
IN- G- N IVSTINVS
PRAEF. FVSCIANO
II SILANO II COS.’ ‘D M
MABLI
NIVS SEC
VNDVS
EQVIS
ALE AVG
STE STIP’ ‘[Page] I O M
PRO SALVTE IMPERATORIS
M. ANTONI GORDIANI. P. F.
INVICTI AVG ET SABINIAE TR
IAETRANQVILE CONIVGI EIVS TO
TAQVE DOMV DIVIN. EORVM ALA
AVG. GORDIA. OB VIRTVTEM
APPELLATA POSVIT: CVI PRAEEST
AEMILIVS CRISPINVS PRAEF.
EQQ. NATVS IN PRO AFRICA DE
TVIDRO SVB CVR NONNII PHLIPPI
LEG. AVG- PROPRETO—
ATTICO ET PRAETEXTATOAn. Christ. 243.
COSS.8’
And the Altars were brought from hence, which are set up in the High-way at Wigton, [...]gton. on the sides whereof one sees a Simpulum, a Fusile, a Malleus, a Patera, &c. sacrificing vessels: but Age has so entirely wore out the Inscriptions, that there is no appearance of Letters. And not far from hence, upon the Military way, was dug up a Pillar of rude stone, now to be seen at Thoresby [...]resby. with this Inscription9: ‘IMP CAES
M. IVL.
PHILIPPO
PIO FELI
CI
AVG
ET M. IVL. PHI
LIPPO
NOBILIS
SIMO CAES
TR. P. COS...’
This also among others was copy'd out for me by Oswald Dykes, a very learned Divine, and is now at Wardal, the seat of his brother T. Dykes, a very worthy Gentleman: ‘DEO
SANCTO BELA
TVCADRO
AVRELIVS
DIATOVA [...] Aram [...]. ARA E
X VOTO POSVIT
LL. MM.’
And to another Local Deity was found this Inscription: ‘DEO
CEAI IO AVR
M RTI. ET M S
ERVRACIO PRO
SE ET SVIS. V. S.
LL. M.’
Besides these, an infinite number of little Images, Statues on horseback, Eagles, Lions, Ganymeds, with several other evidences of Antiquity, are daily dug up. A little higher, [...]ay- [...]h, by Scots. there juts out a small Promontory; below which is a large arm of the Sea, at present the boundary of England and Scotland, but formerly of the Roman Province and the Picts. Upon this little Promontory is that old Town Blatum-Bulgium (possibly from the British Bulch, [...]m- [...]ium. signifying a partition or divorce) from which, as the most remote place and the limit of the Province of Britain, Antoninus begins his Itinerary. The Inhabitants at this day call it Bulness, [...]ess. and tho' it is but a very small village, yet has it a Fort, [...]imen [...] and (as a testimony of its antiquity) besides the tracks of streets and pieces of old walls, it has a harbour, now choakt up; and they tell you that there was a pav'd Cawsey ran all along the shore from hence as far as Elenborrow [h]. A mile beyond this (as appears by the Foundations at low water) begins the Picts-wall, that famous work of the Romans, formerly the bound of the Province, and built to keep out the Barbarians, who in those parts were (as one expresses it) continuallyCircumlatraverunt. barking and snarling at the Roman Empire. I was amaz'd at first, why they should be so careful to fortifie this place, when 'tis fenc'd by a vast arm of the Sea, that comes up some eight miles; but now I understand how at low-water 'tis so shallow, that the Robbers and Plunderers made nothing of fording it. That the figure of the Coast hereabouts has been alter'd, appears plainly from roots of Trees cover'd over with Sand at a good distance from the shore, which are commonly discover'd when the Tide is driven back by the violence of Winds. I know not whether it be worth the while to observe, what the Inhabitants tell you of Subterraneous Trees without boughs,Trees under ground. they very commonly dig up; discovering them by the Dew10, which never lyes upon the ground that covers them.
Upon the same Friths, a little more inward, is Drumbough-Castle, of late times the possession of the Lords of Dacre, but formerly a Station of the Romans. Some will have it the Castra Exploratorum, but the distances will by no means allow it. There was also another Roman Station, which by a change of the name is at present call'de Burgh upon Sands; Burgh upon Sands. 1307. from whence the neighbouring tract is call'd the Barony of Burgh. This by Meschines, Lord of Cumberland, was bestow'd upon Robert de Trivers, from whom it came to theThe Morvils call'd de Burgh super Sabulones. Lib. Inq. Morvills; the last of whom, Hugh, left a daughter, who by her second husband Thomas de Molton had Thomas Molton Lord of this place, and father of that Thomas, who by marriage with the heir of Hubert de Vaulx. Vallibus, joyn'd Gillesland to his other possessions; all which were carry'd by Mawd Molton to Ranulph de Dacre. But this little Town is noted for nothing more than the untimely death of King Edward the first,Edw. 1. after he had triumph'd over his enemies round about him. He was a Prince exceeding famous, in whose valiant breast God (as it were) pitcht his Tent; and as by courage and wisdom, so also by a gracefulness and stateliness of body, rais'd him to the very highest pitch of Majesty. Providence exercis'd his youth with constant wars and difficulties of State, to fit him for the Government; which, after he came to it, he so manag'd by conquering the Welsh, and subduing the Scots, that he deserves the Character of one of the greatest Ornaments of Britain [i]. The Inhabitants say, that under this Burgh, in the very aestuary, there was a Seafight between the Scotch and English; and thatReverso aestu. when the Tide was out, it was manag'd by the Horse: which seems no less strange than what Pliny relates, not without great admiration, of such another place in Caramania. This aestuary is call'd by both Nations Solway-Frith, Solway-Frith. from Solway, a Town of the Scots that stands upon it. But Ptolemy names it more properly Ituna; for the Eiden, a very considerable river,Ituna. Eiden river. which winds along Westmoreland and the inner parts [Page 831-832] of this County, falls into it with a vast body of waters;Hist. Mailros. still remembring what rubs and stops the carcasses of the Scots gave it in the year 1216. after it had d [...]own'd them with their loads of English spoils, and swallow'd up that plundering Crew.
The Ituna or Eiden, assoon as it enters this County, receives from the west the river Eimot, flowing out of the Lake call'd Ulse (or Ulse-water) which I mention'd before. Near its bank, upon the little river Dacor, isf Dacre-Castle, Dacre. noted in latter ages for giving name to the family of the Barons de Dacre, [...]arons Dacre. and mention'd by Bede for having a Monastery in his time; as also by Malmesbury, for being the place where Constantine King of the Scots, and Eugenius King of Cumberland, put themselves and their Kingdoms under the protection of King Athelstan [k].
Somewhat higher, at a little distance from the confluence of Eimot and Loder (at which is the round trench call'd King Arthur's Table) stands Penrith, which implies in British a red hill or head; for the ground hereabouts, and the stone of which it is built, are both reddish. 'Tis commonly call'd Perith, Perith. and is a noted little market town; fortify'd on the west-side with a Royal Castle, which in the reign of Henry 6.g was repair'd out of the ruins of Maburg a Roman Fort hard by. It is adorn'd with a pretty handsome Church [l], has a large Market-place with a Town-house of wood for the convenience of the Market-people, which is beautify'd with Bear [...] climbing up a ragged staff, the Device of the Earls of Warwick. Formerly it belong'd to the Bishops of Durham; but when Anthony Becc, Bishop of this See, was grown haughty and insolent by his great wealth, Edward the first (as we read in the book of Durham) took from him Werk in Tividale, Perith, and the Church of Simondburne. For the benefit of the Town, W. Strickland Bishop of Carlisle, descended from a famous family in those parts, did at his own proper charges draw a Chanel or water-course fromh Peterill, or the Little-river, Petre. Upon the bank of this lay Plompton-park, very large,Call'd o [...] Ha [...]a de Plompten. and formerly set apart by the Kings of England for the keeping of Deer, but by King Henry 8. with greater prudence planted with houses, being almost in the frontiers between England and Scotland [m]. Near this, I saw several remains of a demolish'd City, which, for its nearness to Perith, they call Old Perith; but I should rather take it to be the Petrianae. For, that the Ala Petriana Petriana. was quarter'd here, is plain from the fragment of an old Inscription which one Vlpius TrajanusEmeritus. a pensionary of the same Ala Petriana, set up. But take this, and some others which I copy'd out here.
GADVNO
VLP TRAI
EM. AL. PET
MARTIVS
AICETVOS MATER
VIXIT
ET LATTIO FIL-VIX
A XII. LIMISIVS
CONIV. ET FILIAE
PIENTISSIMIS
POSVIT
FL MARTIO SEN
IN
QVESTORIO
VIXIT AN XXXXV
MARTIOLA FILIA ET
HERES PONEN
ANIS XXVI. GRECA VIX ANIS IIII
VINDICIANVS
After Eden has receiv'd the Eimot [n], it hastens to the north along by little inconsiderable villages and Forts, to the two Salkelds. At Little Salkeld there is a circle of stones, 77. in number, each ten foot high; and before these, at the entrance, is a single one by it self, fifteen foot high. This the common people call Long-Megg, and the rest her daughters; and within the circle arehh two heaps of stones, under which they say there are dead bodies bury'd. And indeed 'tis probable enough that this has been a monument erected in memory of some victory.
From thence the Eden passes by Kirk-Oswald, Kirk-Oswald. dedicated to S. Oswald, formerly the possession of that11 Hugh Morvil, who with his Accomplices kill'd Thomas Archbishop of Canterbury; in memory of which fact, the sword he then us'd was preserv'd here for a long time: then by Armanthwayte, Armanthwayte. the Castle of the Skeltons; and Corby, C [...]rby-Castle. a Castle of the noble and ancient family of the Salkelds, which was much enrich'd by marriage with the heir of Rosgil; then by Wetherall, Wethera [...] formerly a little monastery (belonging to the Abbey of S. Mary in York) where one seesi a sort of houses dug out of rock, that seem to have been design'dIn p [...] gii [...] Viro [...]i [...] for an absconding place12: next, by Warwic, which I take to be the old Virosidum, where the sixth Cohort of the Nervii formerly kept garison along the Wall against the Picts and Scots. In the last age, there was built here a very strong stone-bridge, at the expence of the Salkelds and Richmonds. And so by Linstoc, Linstoc. a castle of the Bishops of Carlisle within the Barony of Crosby, Crosby. which Waldeve, son of Earl Gospatrick and Lord of Allerdale, gave to the Church of Carlisle. The present name (I fancy) is contracted from Olenacum. For that Olenacum, Olenac [...] where the Ala [Page 833] prima Herculea lay in garison against the Barbarians, seems to have been along the Wall. And now Eden, ready to fall into the Aestuary, receives two little rivers [almost] at the same place, Peterill and Caude, which from the south, keep all along at an equall distance. Upon the Peterill, beside the Perrianae already spoken of, is Greystock, [...]eystock. the Castle of a family which has been long famous, deriving its original from one Ralph Fitz-Wolter. Of whose posterity, William de Greystock marry'd Mary daughter and coheir of Roger de Merley Lord of Morpath. He had a son, John, who having no issue, got leave of King Edward 1. to make over his estate to his [...]. Cousin Ralph de Granthorpe son of William, whose posterity for a long time flourish'd here in great honour13. But about the reign of Henry 7. that family ended, and the estate came by marriage to the Barons of Dacre; the heirs general of the last of whom were marry'd to14 two sons of Thomas Howard, late Duke of Norfolk [o].
Near the Caude, besides the Copper-mines [...]pper- [...]nes at Caudebeck, is Highyate, a Castle of the Richmonds [p]; and a beautiful Castle of the Bishops of Carlisle, call'd The Rose-Castle: this seems to have been the old Congavata, [...]ngavata. where the second Coho [...]t of the Lergi were quarter'd; for Congavata signifies in British a vale upon the Gavata, now contracted into Cauda. But I have not yet been able to mark out the express place where it was seated [q]. Between the confluence of those rivers, [...]. the ancient City Carlile has a delicate pleasant situation, bounded on the north with Eden, [...]en. on the east with Peterill, and on the west with Caude. Also besides these natural fences, it is arm'd with a strong stone wall, a castle, and a citadel. 'Tis of an oblong form from west to east: upon the west is a pretty large castle, which by the Arms appears to have beenk built by Rich. 3. Almost in the middle of the city, stands the Cathedral Church, the upper part whereof (being newer) is a curious piece of Workmanshipl, but the lower is much more ancient. On the east it is defended with a Citadel (very strong, and fortify'd with [...]griis [...]agna [...]. several Orillons or Roundels) built by K. Hen. 8. The Romans and Britains call'd this City Lugu-ballum [...]gu- [...]lum. and Lugu-vallium, or Lugu balia, the Saxons (as Bede witnesses) Luel; Ptolemy (as some think)m Leucopibia; Nennius, Caer Lualid; the ridiculous Welsh Prophecies, The City of Duballus; we, Carlile; and the Latins from the more modern name, Carleolum. For, that Luguballia and Carlile are the same, is universally agreed upon by our Historians.n But as to the Etymology, good God! what pains has our Countryman Leland took about it; and at last he's driven upon this shift, to fancy. Ituna might be call'd Lugus, and that Ballum came from Vallis, a valley; and so makes Lugu-vallum as much as a valley upon the Luge. But (give me leave also to produce my conjecture) I dare affirm that the Vallum and Vallin, were deriv'd from that famous military Vallum of the Romans, which runs just by the City. For Antoninus calls it Luguvallum ad vallum; and the Picts-wall, that was afterwards built upon the Wall of Severus, is to be seen at Stanwicks, a small village, a little beyond the Eden (over which there is a wooden bridge.) It pass'd the river over against the Castle, where in the very chanel the remains of it, namely, great stones, appear to this day. Also, Pomponius Mela has told us, [...] & [...]gus, [...]hat they [...]gnify'd [...]ong the [...]cient Bri [...]ns and [...]als. that Lugus or Lucus signify'd a Tower among the old Celtae, who spoke the same Language with the Britains. For what Antoninus calls Lugo Augusti, is in him Turris Augusti; so that Lugu-vallum both really is and signifies, a tower or fort upon the wall or vallum. Upon this bottom, if the French had made their Lugdunum [...]gdu [...]m. signifie as much as a tower upon a hill, and their Lucotetia Lucotetia or Lutetia in France. An old Itinerary lately publish'd says that Lugdunum signifies a desirable mountain. (so the Ancients nam'd what we call Lutetia) as much as a beautiful tower (for the words import so much in the British;) possibly they might have been more in the right, than by deriving the latter from Lutum dirt, and the former from one Lugdus a fabulous King. That this City flourish'd in the times of the Romans, does plainly enough appear both from the several evidences of Antiquity they now and then dig up, and from the frequent mention made of it by Roman Authors. And even after the ravages of the Picts and Scots, it retain'd something of it's ancient beauty, and was reckon'd a City. For in the year of our Lord 619. Egfrid King of Northumberlando gave it to the famous S. Cuthbert in these words: I have also bestow'd upon him the City call'd Luguballia, with the lands fifteen miles round it. At which time also it was wall'd round. The Citizens (says Bede) carry'd Cuthbert to see the Walls of the City, and a Well of admirable workmanship built in it by the Romans. At which time, Cuthbert (as the Durham-book has it) founded a Religious-house for Nuns, with an Abbess, and Schools [for the instruction of youth.] Afterwards, being miserably destroy'd by the Danes, it lay bury'd for about two hundred years in it's own ashes: till it began to flourish again by the favour and assistance of William Rufus, who built it a-new, with a Castle, and planted there a Colony, first of the Flemings (whom, upon better consideration, he quickly remov'd intooo Wales,) and then of English, sent out of the south [r]. Then (as Malmesbury has it) was to be seen a Roman Triclinium or dining-room of stone arch'd over, which neither the violence of Weather nor Fire could destroy. On the front of it was this Inscription, Marii Victoriae. Some will have this Marius to have been Arviragus the Britain; others, that Marius, who was saluted Emperour in opposition to Gallienus, and is said to have been so strong, that Authors tell us he had nerves instead of veins in his fingers. Yet I have heard that some Copies have it, not Marii Victoriae, but Marti Victori; which latter may perhaps be favour'd by some, and seem to come nearer the truth. Luguballia now grown populous, had (as they write) it's Earl or rather Lord, Ralph Meschines or de Micenis, from whom are descended the Earls of Chester; and being about the same time honour'd with an Episcopal See by Hen. 1. had Athulph for it's first Bishop. This the Monks of Durham look'd upon as an injury to their Church. When Ralph (say they) Bishop of Durham was banish'd, and the Church had none to protect it, certain Bishops seis'd upon Carleil and Tividale, and joyn'd them to their own Dioceses. How the Scots in the reign of King Stephen took this City, and Henry 2. recover'd it; how Henry 3.Eversden. committed the Castle of Carlile, and the County, to Robert de Veteri ponte or Vipont; how in the year 1292. it wasp burnt down along with the Cathedral and Suburbs; how Robert Brus the Scot, in the year 1315. besieg'd it without success, &c. are matters treated of at large in our Histories. But it may be worth our while to add two Inscriptions I saw here; one in the house of Thomas Aglionby near the Citadel,Deterioris seculi. but not ancient.
S MARCI TROIANI
AVGVSTINANI
CIENDVM CVRAVIT
AFEL. AMMILLVSIMA.
CONIVX
To which is joyn'd the effigies of an armed Horseman, with a Lance.
The other is in the Garden of Thomas Middleton, in a large and beautiful Character: ‘LEG. VI
VIC. P. F.
G. P. R. F.’
That is (as I fancy) Legio Sexta Victrix, Pia, Felix. The interpretation of the rest I leave to others.
Andrew Harcla Earl of Carlisle. Carlisle had only one Earl,15 Andrew de Harcla, whom Edward the second, (to speak from the Original Charter of Creation) for his honourable and good services against Thomas Earl of Lancaster and his Adherents, for subduing the King's Subjects who were in rebellion, and delivering them prisoners to the King; by the girding of a sword created Earl under the honour and title of Earl of Carleol. But the same person afterwards prov'd ungrateful, villanous and perfidious to his King and Country; and being taken was punish'd with an ignominy answerable to his treachery.Th. Avensbury. For being degraded, he had his spurs cut off with a hatchet, then his sword-belt was taken from him; next his shoes and gloves were pull'd off; after which he was drawn, hang'd, beheaded, and quarter'd.
Luguballia or Carlisle is 21 degr. 31 min. in Longitude; and 54 degr. 55 min. in Latitude. I will bid it farewel in that Encomium of J. Jonston.
CARLEOLUM.
CARLISLE.
Crossing the Eden, you see Rowcliffe just upon the bank, a little Castle built not long since by the Lords Dacres for their own private defence [s]. Above this, two rivers Esk and Leven with joynt streams enter the aestuary of Ituna almost at the same mouth. Esk comes out of Scotland, but for some miles owns it self to belong to England, and receives the river K [...]rsop; where were fixt not long since the limits between the English and Scots: tho' 'tis not so much water that keeps them within bounds, as a mutual dread, having had sufficient experience of each others valour. Upon this, where we see Netherby, a little village of two or three cottages, the ruins of some ancient City are so very wonderful and great, and the name of Esk running by does so well second it, that I imagine the old Aesica stood there, wherein formerly the Tribune of the first Cohort of the Astures kept garison against the Barbarians. 'Tis now the seat of the Head of the Family of Grayhams, The Grayhams. very famous among the Borderers for their great valour; and in the walls of the house is this Roman Inscription [t], set up in memory of Hadrian the Emperour by the Legio Secunda Augusta.
HADRIANO
AVG.
LEG. II. AVG. F.
Where the Lid joyns the Esk, stood formerly Liddel, Barony [...] Lidell. a Castle (as I have been told) and a Barony of the Estotevills, who held Lands in Cornage, which Earl Ranulph (as we read in an old Inquisition) gave to Turgiss Brundas. Lides [...]a [...] From Estotevill it descended hereditarily to the Wakes, and by them to the Earls of Kent16; John Earl of Kent granted it to King Edward the third,An [...] R. and King Richard the second to John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster. Beyond this Esk also, the Country for some miles together is reckon'd English ground; in which compass is Sollom-moss, The [...] of So [...]-mos [...]. noted for the taking of many of the Scotch Nobility prisoners in the year 1543. For when the Scots were ready to attack the English (who were commanded by17 Th. Wharton, Lord Warden of the Marches,) and found that Oliver Sincler, a person for whom they had no manner of kindness, was constituted General; each lookt upon it as an affront to himself, and they were so incens'd at it, as to revenge the injury (that was the construction they put upon it) with their own disgrace and damage: for they fell to mutinies, broke the ranks, and put all into disorder. The English, who were posted upon the higher ground, observing that, fell upon them, and put them to flight. Great numbers were taken; for they threw down their Arms, and submitted themselves generally to the English and the Moss-troopers, so that only a Souldier here and there was kill'd. This, James the fifth, King of Scotland, laid so to heart, that he dy'd of grief. The neighbouring parts are call'd Batable-ground, Batable-ground. or The ground in debate, because the English and Scots cannot agree about it. For the Inhabitants on both sides, as living upon the Frontiers, are a swift,Lim [...] subtil, and nimble sort of Souldiers, as being inur'd to it by frequent skirmishesq. Leven, Leve [...]. the other of the rivers I mention'd, arising in the very limits of the two Kingdoms, runs by nothing memorable besides Beucastle B [...]u-C [...] (as they commonly call it,) a Castle of the Kings, which in those solitary parts is defended by a small Garison. In the publick Records it is written Bueth-castle; so that one might imagine the name were deriv'd from that Bueth, who about Henry the first's time had almost got the entire government of those parts. However, 'tis certain that in Edward the third's reign, it belong'd to18 John Baron Strivelin, Baron Striv [...] who marry'd the daughter and coheir of Adam de Swinborn. In the Church, now almost quite ruinated, there lyes a Grave-stone brought hither from some other place, with this Inscription: ‘LEG II AVG
FECIT’
In the Church-yard is a Cross of one entire square-stone, about twenty foot high, and curiously cut: there is an Inscription too, but the letters are so dim, that they are not legible. But seeing the CrossIta [...] stin [...]ta. ch [...] [...] is of the same kind as that in the Arms of the Vaulx, one may conjecture that it has been made by some of that Family [u].
More to the South and West, and farther in the County, lyes Gillesland-Barony, a tract [...] so cut and m [...]ngl'd with the brooks (which they call1451 Gilles,) that I should have thought it had taken the name from them; if I had not read in the book of Laner-cost-Church, that one Gill the son of Bueth (call'd also Gilbert in a Charter of Henry the second) was possest of it: so that probably it had this name from him. Through this tract Severus's wall, that famous monument of Britain, run from Carlisle Eastward almost in a direct line by Stanwicks a little village; Scalby, [...] a Castle formerly belonging to the Tilleols, once a famous Family in those parts, from whom it came to the Pickerings. Then the Wall is cross'd by the little river Cambeck, upon which the Barons Dacre built Askerton a little Castle, [...] wherein the Governour of Gillesland (call'd commonly Land Sergeant) kept a Garison. Below the Wall it joyns the river Irthing, where is Irthington, the Capital Manour (as they call it) of this Barony of Gillesland: and here at Castle-steed appear very great ruins. Hard by is Brampton, a little market-town [w], which I take to be the Bremeturacum [...] along the Wall (for 'tis scarce a mile from the Wall) where formerly the first Cohort of the Tungri from Germany, and in the decline of the Roman Empire, the Cuneus Armaturarum, under the Governour of Britain, were quarter'd. Those Armaturae were Horse arm'd Cap-a-pee: [...]. but whether they were Duplares or Simplares, my Author has not told us. The Duplares were in the sense of that age such as [...] had a double allowance of Corn, the Simplares, such as had a single. Nor must I omit, that at Brampton there is a high hill call'd the Mote, ditch'd round at the top; from whence is a large prospect all the Country round. Below this, and at Castle-steeds, i.e. the place of a Castle, as also at Trederman hard by, were found these Inscriptions, which the Right Honourable William Lord Howard of Naworth, third son of his Grace Thomas Duke of Norfolk, copy'd out for me with his own hand: a person admirably verst in, and a peculiar favourer of the study of Antiquities; who in right of his wife, the sister and coheir of the last Lord Baron Dacre, has a great Estate in those parts:
This was also found there in an old Vault, wherein the name of the Emperour's Lieutenant and Propraetor [in Britain] is unluckily worn out.
Along near Brampton runs the little river Gelt, upon the bank whereof, in a rock call'd Helbeck, is this gaping, imperfect Inscription, set up by an Ensign of the second Legion call'd Augusta, possibly that Optio under Agricola the Propraetor; with some others, the sight whereof time has envy'd us.
Perhaps Propraetore.
In the same rock also we read in a more modern character, ‘OFICIVM ROMANORVM.’
Here the Gelt empties it self into the river Irthing, which runs with a violent and rapid stream along by [...]rth-Castle, now belonging to William Howard [...]e-mention'd, who is repairing it; but lately o [...]e Barons of Dacre; the last whereof, some years ago dy'd young, and his Uncle Leonard (chosing rather to contend with his Prince, in War, than with his Nieces, in Law, about the estate) seis'd upon the Castle, and got together a company of Rebels in opposition to his Prince. But the Lord Hunsdon, with the garrison of Berwick, easily defeated them, put a great many to the sword, and the rest (amongst whom was Leonard himself) to flight [x]19 Nearer the Wall stood the Priory of Lanercost, founded by R. de Vallibus, Lord of Gillesland [y]; and upon the wall is Burd-Oswald. Below this, where the Picts-Wall pass'd the river Irthing by an arch'd bridge, at a place now call'd Willoford, was the Station of the† Cohors prima Aelia Dacorum; as appears by the Notitia, and several Altars erected by that Cohort, and inscrib'd to Jupiter Optimus Maximus. Some of them I think proper to give you, tho' they're much defac'd and worn with age.
COH. I. AEL.
DAC. CVI
PRAE|||||
IG|||||||
||||||
|||||
CoH. I. AEL
DAC. C. P.
STATV LoN
GINUS, TRIB.
OH. I. AEL. DA
C. — C. — A. GETA
IRELSAVRNES
—
D. N MAXiMIANO
VA—
—
—OAED
V I C. P. F.
F.
TETRICIANO RO
— C. P. P.LVTIC
— V. S. DESIG
NATVS
TRIB.
— H. I. AEL. DAC.
— C. PRAEESI. —
— FLIUS FA
— S TRIB. —
— PETVO. —
— COS.
The first Lord of Gillesland that I read of,Lords of Gill [...]s [...] Out o [...] [...] old M [...] R. C [...], Clarenceux, [...] him Ra [...] as also [...] MSS. of Founta [...] and Hi [...] Abb [...] was William Meschines, brother of Ralph Lord of Cumberland (not that William who was brother of Ranulph Earl of Chester, from whom sprang Ranulph de Ruelent, but the brother of Ralph;) but he was not able to get it out of the hands of the Scots: for Gill the son of Bueth ſ held the greatest part of it by force of Arms. After his death, King Henry the second bestow'd it upon Hubert de Vallibus or Vaulx, whose Coat. Armour was Chequey, Argent and Gules. His son Robert founded and endow'd the Priory of Lanercost. But the estate within a few years came by marriage to the Moltons, and from them by a daughter to Ranulph Lord Dacre, whose posterity flourish'd in great honour down to our time [z].
Having thus took a Survey of the Sea-coast and inner parts of Cumberland, we must pass to the East of it, a lean, hungry, desolate sort of Country, which affords nothing remarkable besides the head of South-Tine in a wet spungy ground, and an ancient Roman stone Cawsey,8 Ulna [...] above ten yards broad. 'Tis call'd the Maiden-way, Maiden-way. leading out of Westmoreland: and at the confluence of the little river Alon, and the Tine we spoke of, on the side of a gentle ascent, there are the remains of a large old Town; which to the North has been fortify'd with a fourfold Rampire, and to the WestSile [...] with one and a half. The place is now call'd Whitley-castle; and as a testimony of it's Antiquity, has this imperfect InscriptionComp [...] of a scri [...] ratio [...] [...] risim [...]le [...] compendiously written with the Letters link'd one in another: from which we learn that the third Cohort of the Nervii built aAedem [...] Temple there to Antoninus the Emperour, son of Severus.
ADIABENICI, PARTHICI,
MAX. FIL. DIVI ANTONINI Pii Germanici
SARMA. NEP. DIVI ANTONINI PII PRON.
DIVI HADRIANI ABN. DIVI TRAIANI
PARTH. ET DIVI NERVAE ADNEPOTI.
M. AVRELIO ANTONINO PIO
FEL. AVG. GERMANICO PONT. MAX.
TR. POT. — X — IMP. — COS. IIII. P. p.—
PRO PIETATE AEDE — VOTO -
COMMVNI CURANTE —
— LEGATO AVG.
PR — COH. III. NERVIO —
RVM — G. R. POS.
Now seeing the third Cohort of the Nervii was quarter'd in this place, seeing also the Notitia sets them at Alione, as Antoninus does at Alone, and a little river running under it is call'd Alne; if I should think this to be the very Alone, I could not indeed [Page 837] deliver it for a positive truth, because the injuries of time, and the violence of wars, have long since put these things out of the reach of human knowledge, but it would at least seem probable.
Upon the decay of the Roman power in Britain, tho' this Country was cruelly harrass'd by the Scots and Picts, yet did it longest keep its original Inhabitants the Britains, and fell late under the power of the Saxons. But when the Danish wars had well nigh broke the Saxon government, it had its petty Kings, [...]gs of [...]mber [...]d. stil'd Kings of Cumberland, to the year of our Lord 946. At which time (as Florilegus tells us) King Edmund, by the assistance of Leolin King of South-Wales, spoil'd Cumberland of all its riches, and having put out the eyes of the two sons of Dummail King of that County, granted that Kingdom to Malcolm King of Scots, to hold of him, and to protect the North-parts of England both by Sea and Land against the incursions of the Enemy. After which, the eldest sons of the Kings of Scotland, as well under the Saxons as Danes, were stil'd [...]mbri [...]e [...]. Governours of Cumberland. But when England had yielded to the Normans, this County submitted among the rest, and fell to the share of Ralph de Meschines, whose eldest son Ranulph was Lord of Cumberland, and at the same time, in right of his mother and by the favour of his Prince, Earl of Chester. But King Stephen, to ingratiate himself with the Scots, restor'd it to them, to hold of him and his Successors Kings of England. But his immediate Successor Henry the second, considering what a prejudice this profuse Liberality of Stephen's was both to him and his whole Kingdom, demanded back from the Scots Northumberland, Cumberland, and Westmoreland. For the Scotch King (as Neubrigensis has it) wisely considering that since the King of England had both a better title, and was much stronger in those parts (tho' he could have alledg'd the oath which was said to have been made to his grandfather David, when he was knighted by him,) very fairly and honestly restor'd the foresaid bounds at the King's demand, and in lieu of them had Huntingdonshire, which belong'd to him by ancient right.
Cumberland had no Earls before Henry the eighth's time, who created Henry Clifford, descended from the Lords de Veteri ponte or Vipont, first Earl of Cumberland.Earls of Cumberland. He by Margaret, daughter of Henry Percy Earl of Northumberland, had Henry the second Earl, who by his first wife, daughter of Charles Brandon Duke of Suffolk, had Margaret Countess of Derby; and by his second, daughter of Baron Dacre of Gillesland, two sons, George and Francis. George the third Earl, famous for his great exploits at Sea, undaunted, and indefatigable, dy'd in the year 1505, leaving an only daughter Anne Now Countess of Dorset. But his brother, Sir Francis, &c.. Francis his brother, the fourth Earl, succeeded him; in whom appears a strong inclination to Virtue, worthy the greatness of such honourable AncestorsAs for the Wardens of the West-marches against Scotland in this County, which were Noblemen of especial trust; I need to say nothing, when as by the union of both Kingdoms under one head, that Office is now determin'd..
This County has 58. Parish-Churches, besides Chapels.
VALLUM; OR, The PICTS WALL.
THat famous Wall, which was the bound of the Roman Province, call'd by ancient [Latin] Writers, Vallum Barbaricum, Praetentura, and Clusura, i.e. the Barbarous Wall, the Breast-work, the Fence or Hedge, crosses the† upper part of Cumberland, and is not by any means to be pass'd over in silence. 'Tis by Dio call'd [...], or Thorough-wall; by Herodian [...], [...] Fences the [...]ron [...] of the [...]inces [...] call'd [...]rae, ab [...]iendo, [...] shut [...]g out the [...]; and [...]nturae [...]em [...], from [...] [...]cht out [...]st the [...]y. [...]ithae [...] [...]d [...] [...]. c. 14 [...] or [...] of [...]mpire. or A vast Ditch; by Antoninus, Cassiodorus, and others Vallum, by Bede Murus, by the Britains Gual-Sever, Gal-Sever, and Mur-Sever; by the Scots Scottis-waith, by the English and those that live about it, the Picts-wall, or the Pehits-wall; also the Keepe-wall, and by way of eminence, The Wall.
When by the Providence of God, and the assistance of Courage, the Roman affairs had succeeded beyond expectation, and the ambitious bravery of that people had so enlarg'd their Conquests on all sides, that they began to be jealous of their own greatness, the Emperours thought it most advisable to set some bounds to their Dominions. For like prudent Politicians, they observ'd that Greatness ought to have its bounds; just as the Heavens keep their exact compass, and the Seas toss about within their own limits. Now these bounds were either natural, as the Sea, the larger Rivers, Mountains, Deserts; or artificial, viz. Fences contriv'd, such are Ditches, Castles, Towers, [...]. Barricadoes of Trees, Walls of Earth or Stone, with Garisons planted along them to keep out the Barbarians. Whereupon Theodosius's Novels; [...] 3 By the contrivance of our Ancestors, whatever is under the power of the Romans, is defended against the incursions of Barbarians by a boundary-wall. In times of peace, the Frontier-garisons lay along the Line in Castles and Cities; but when they were apprehensive of the incursions of the neighbours, part of them, for the defence of their own, pitcht their Tents in the Enemies Country,Hence we meet with Stationes Agrariae in Vegetius. and part made excursions into the Enemies quarters, to observe their motions, and to engage, if they could, upon an advantage.
In this Island particularly, when they found that those more remote parts of Britain had nothing agreeable either in the Air or Soil, that they were inhabited by that barbarous crew of Caledonians, and that the advantages by subduing them could never answer the trouble, they did at several times contrive several Fences, to bound and secure the Province.The first Praetentura. The first of that kind seems to have been done by Julius Agricola, when he set Garisons along that narrow slip of ground betweenBodotria & Glotta. Edenborrow-Frith and Dunbritten-Frith [aa]; which was afterwards fortify'd, as occasion requir'd.
Hadrian, for whom the God Terminus retreated [bb],The second Praetentura. made the second, after he had retir'd about 80 miles, either out of envy to the glory of Trajan (under whom the Empire was at it's utmost extent,) or out of fear. He (says Spartian) drew a Wall of eighty miles in length, to divide the Barbarians from the Romans; which one may gather from what follows in Spartian, to have been made in fashion of a Muralis sepis. Some read Militaris. Mural hedge, of large stakes fixt deep in the ground, and fastned together with wattles. And this is it we are now speaking of, for it runs along for 80 miles together; and upon it are thet Pons Aelia, Classis Aelia, Cohors Aelia, Ala Sabiniana, which took their names from Aelius Hadrianus and Sabina his wife. And the Scotch Historian, [Page 838] who wrote the Rota Temporum, Rota Temporum. tells us, That Hadrian did first of all draw a Wall of a prodigious bigness made of Turfs (of that height that it lookt like a mountain, and with a deep ditch before it) from the mouth of the Tine to the river Eske, i.e. from the German to the Irish Ocean. Which Hector Boëtius delivers in the very same words.
Lollius Urbicus, Lieutenant of Britain under Antoninus Pius, by his great success remov'd back the bounds to where Julius Agricola had first set them, and rais'd a Wall there, which was the third Fence or Praetentura. The third Praetentura. He (says Capitolinus) conquer'd the Britains, and driving back the Barbarians, made another Wall of Turf, i.e. distinct from that of Hadrian's. The honour of Lollius's success in Britain was by Fronto (as the Panegyrist has it) given entirely to Antoninus the Emperour; affirming, that tho' he liv'd quietly in his palace at Rome, and had only given out a Commission to the Lieutenant, yet he had merited all the glory; as a Pilot sitting at the Stern deserves the whole honour of the voyage and expedition. But that this Wall of Antoninus Pius, and of his Lieutenant Lollius Urbicus, was in Scotland, shall be shewn hereafter.
The fourth Praetentura.But when the Caledonian Britains, under Commodus the Emperour, had broke thorow this, Severus neglecting that farther Wall, and that large Country between, drew a Wall across the Island from Solway-Frith to Tinmouth [cc]. And this (if my judgment signifie any thing) was along the very same ground, where Hadrian had before made his of stakes. In this matter I have the opinion of Hector Boëtius on my side. Severus (says he) order'd Hadrian's Wall to be repair'd, Stone-fortresses to be built upon it, and Turrets at such a distance as the sound of a Trumpet, against the wind, might be heard from one to the other. And in another place: Our Annals tell us that the Wall which was begun by Hadrian, was finisht by Severus. The learned Spaniard also, Hieronymus Surita, tells us that Hadrian's Fence wasLongius pro luctum [...]ui [...]le. carry'd on and compleated with vast works by Septimius Severus, and had the name of Vallum given it. Guidus Pancirolus likewise affirms that Severus only repair'd Hadrian's wall whi [...]h was fall'n. He (says Spartian) secur'd Britain by a Wall drawn across the Island, from sea to sea; which is the great glory of his Government: whereupon he took the name of u Britannicus. He clear'd Britain (says Aurelius Victor) of the enemy, and fenc'd in as much of it with a Wall, as was for his interest. Which also we meet with in Spartian. And Eutropius; That he might make the utmost provisions for the security of the Provinces he had got, he drew a Wall for 35. miles together (read 80.) from sea to sea. And he sound it necessary (says Orosius) to separate with a Wall that part of the Island he had possess'd himself of, from the other Nations that were unconquer'd. For which reason he drew a great Ditch, and built a strong Wall, fortify'd with several Towers, from sea to sea, for 122. miles. Bede agrees with him; but is not willing to believe that Severus built a Wall; urging, that a Murus or Wall is of stone,Murus & [...]allum. but a Vallum is made of pales (call'd Valli) and turfs; (notwithstanding which, 'tis certain that Vallum and Murus are us'd promiscuously.) Spartian calls it Murus, and hints that Severus built both a Murus and Vallum, Gail Malni [...]sb. in these words, Post Murum apud Vallum in Britannia missum. But one may gather from Bede, that this Vallum was nothing else but a Wall of turf; and it cannot be affirm'd with any truth, that Severus's Wall was of stone. However, take Bede's own words: Severus having quieted the Civil Commotions (at that time very high) was forc't over into Britain by almost a general defection of his Allies. There, after several great and difficult engagements, he thought it necessary to separate that part of the Island he had recover'd, from the other Nations that were unconquer'd; not with a Murus, as some think, but with a Vallum. Now a Murus is of stone; but a Vallum, such as they cast round a Camp to secure it against the attacks of the enemy, is made of turf cut regularly out of the ground, and so built high above ground like a Wall, with the Ditch before it, out of which the turf has been digg'd; and strong Palisadoes of wood all along the brink. Severus therefore drew a great Ditch, and built a strong earthen Wall, fortify'd with several Towers from sea to sea. Nor is it exprest by any other word than Vallum, either in Antoninus or the Notitia: and in British 'tis call'd Guall-Sever. Take also what Ethelwerd (the most ancient Writer we have, next Bede) has said of Severus: He drew a Ditch across the foresaid Island from sea to sea, and within it built a M [...] Wall with Towers and Forts. This he afterwards calls Fossa Severia; as also our ancient Saxon-Annals. Severus Britenland mid dic forgyrd fram Sae oð Sae, i.e. Severus girt in Britain with a dike from sea to sea. And other Annals of later date, deverus on Brytene geƿrht ƿeal of turfum fram Sae to Sae, i.e. Severus made a Wall of turf (or a Vallum) from sea to sea. Malmesbury also calls it the eminent and famous Ditch. In the place whereof a Wall of stone was built about 200 years after; of which we shall have occasion to speak by and by.
As to Eutropius making the length 35. miles, Victor 32. and other Authors 132. I fancy this difference has rose from a corruption in the Numerals. For the Island is not 132. miles broad at this place, even tho' you reckon the winding course of the Wall over hills and valleys; and if you take your computation according to the Italian miles, you'l make it amount to little more than 80. as Spartian has truly stated the account. A few years after, they seem to have begun to neglect this Wall. But when the Emperour Alexander Severus (as we read in Lampridius) had given such Lands as were taken from the Enemy to the Frontier garisons and their Officers (so that all was to be theirs, Why the gro [...]nes [along t [...] Frontier [...] were gr [...] ted to the [...] Commanders t [...]ere [...] upon condition that their heirs too were brought up in the service of the Empire, and no attempt was made to convert them to private uses;) imagining they would be more diligent and couragious when they fought for their own: (I desire, particular notice may be taken of this, because here we have either the original of Feudal-tenures, Original Feudal T [...] nures. or at least a species of them:) then the Romans pass'd the Wall, and fixing in the Barbarian's Country, built and mann'd garisons, and by degrees carried the bounds of the Empire as far as Bodotria. Not but the Barbarians by frequent sallies and skirmishes now and then drove them back to Severus's Wall. Dioclesian took great care to keep his ground, under whom the government of Britain was granted to Carausius, as a person every way fit to engage such a desperate warlike People; and he (as we shall observe in its proper place)Re [...] set up the old Barrier between Glotta and Bodotria. Constantine the Great is the first we find censur'd for neglecting this Boundary. For Zosimus says,Lib. [...]. That when the utmost bounds of the Roman Empire were, by the wise conduct of Dioclesian, fortify'd with Towns, Castles, and Burrows, wherein all our Troops were garison'd; it was not possible for the Barbarians to make inroads, the Enemy being planted in all parts for their reception. But Constantine quitting that custom of Forts and Garisons, remov'd the better half of the Souldiers from the Frontiers into Towns that had no occasion for them, and so both expos'd the Marches to the fury of the Barbarians, and pester'd the Cities, that had liv'd quietly and undisturb'd, with quartering of Souldiers; The d [...] of the R [...] man E [...] pire. by which means several of them were left desolate without Inhabitants. The Souldiers themselves he effeminated with shows and pleasures; and in a word, laid the first foundation of that gradual decay and ruin which is at this day so visible in the Empire.
The Country between the two Frontier-fences was so entirely recover'd by Theodosius, Marce [...] l 38. About [...] year [...] father of Theodosius the Emperour, that he built Cities in it, fortify'd it with Castles, Garisons, and Barriers; and having thus recover'd it, so compleatly reduc'd it to the former condition, as to set over it aRe [...] legrim [...] Va [...] C [...]d [...] The [...] lawful Governour, and have it call'd Valentia, in honour of Valentinian. Theodosius also his son, when his signal courage had promoted him to the Empire, took particular care of the Frontiers, and commanded that the Magister Officiorum (or Scout-Master-General) should [Page 839] every year signifie to the Emperour how the Souldiery stood, and what care was taken of the Castles and Fences. But when the affairs of the Empire begun visibly to run to ruin, and the Picts and Scots breaking through the Turf-wall at Bodotria, made havock of all these parts,B [...]dus. the Roman Legion under Gallio of Ravennas, was sent to their assistance, and repuls'd the Barbarians.The fifth [...]ratentura. But being recall'd for the defence of Gaul, they advis'd the Britains (take it in the very words of Gildas and Bede) to build a Wall cross the Island between the two Seas, which might secure them against the Incursions of the Enemy; and so return'd home in great triumph. But the Islanders building this Wall Non tam [...]p [...]dious [...]um cespi [...]ous. not of stone but of turf (as wanting skilful hands to carry on such a great work) it signified nothing. So Gildas tells us, that being built up of turf, not of stone, and that by an unskilful rabble, without any Director, it stood them in no stead. Concerning the place where this Wall was built, Bede goes on thus: Now they made it between the two arms or bosoms of the sea, for a great many miles together; that where the Waters did not defend them, the Wall might be a security against the Incursions of the Enemy. (Such a Wall as this, but of a vast length, defended Assyria against foreign Invasions, as Marcellinus has told us. And theSeres. Chinese at this day (as we read in Osorius) fence their Valleys and Plains with Walls, to assist them in keeping out the Scythians. [...]he Wall [...]tween [...]i [...]er- [...]ugh-Frith [...]nd Do [...] [...]on [...]th.) Of which work, i.e. of a very broad and high Wall, the express footsteps are visible at this day. It begins at almost two miles distance from the Monastery Abercuruinig on the East, in a place call'd in the language of the Picts Penuahel, but in the English Penueltun: and so running Westward, ends hard by the City Alcluith. But their old Enemies, assoon as they understood the Roman Legion was gone, presently set sail, throw down the bounds, put all to the sword, and (as it were) mow them like ripe Corn, trample under foot and over-run all in their way. Upon this they send Ambassadours to Rome once more, who in a most melancholy address desire assistance, that their miserable Country may not be quite ruin'd, and the name of a Roman Province (which had so long flourisht among them) be thrown out and brought under contempt by the insolence of foreign Nations. A Legion is again sent over, which surprising them in Autumn (when they did not so much as dream of them) slew great numbers of the Enemy, and drove back such as could make their escape, over the arm of the Sea: whereas before that, they us'd to keep their set times for invasions and plunders every year, without any manner of disturbance.
[...]ou [...] the [...]r of our [...]d [...]20. [...]tus [...] it Theo [...]'s [...]re [...]ry. [...]. [...]diers [...]n'd [...]g the [...]l. [...]merus. [...]meus.And now the Romans retir'd to Severus's wall, and along the Linea Valli (as the Notitia, which was writ about the latter end of Theodosius the younger, has it) i.e. all-along the wall, on both sides, there lay in garison five ‖ wings of Horse, with their Praefects, fifteen Cohorts of Foot with their Tribunes, one * band, and one † squadron. But these we have spoke of in their proper places; and shall have occasion to mention them hereafter. Concerning what follow'd, Bede goes on thus. Then the Romans told the Britains once for all, that they could not endure such toilsome expeditions for their defence, but advis'd them by all means to betake themselves to their Arms, and to dispute the cause with the enemy; suggesting, that they wanted nothing to be too hard for them, but only to quit that lazy way of living. The Romans also (hoping that might be of consequence to their Allies, [...]l of [...]t, the [...] Prae [...]ra. whom they were now forc'd to leave) built a strong wall of stone from sea to sea, directly along by those cities which had been settl'd there for fear of the enemy, (where also Severus had formerly made his wall.) I will also set down here Gildas's words, from whom Bede had this. The Romans, at the publick and private expence, joyning to themselves the assistance of the miserable inhabitants, rais'd a wall (not like that other) from sea to sea, according to their usual manner of building, along by the cities that had been contriv'd here and there for fear of the enemy. But to return to Bede. Which wall, so much talk'd of, and visible at this day, built at the publick and private expence, by the joynt labour of the Romans and Britains, was eight foot broad and twelve high, running in a direct line from east to west, as is plain at this day to any that shall trace it. From which words of Bede, 'tis plain, that a certain learned man, instead of hitting the mark, put out his own Eyes, when he affirm'd with so much zeal and eagerness against Boëtius and the other Scotch writers, that Severus's wall was in Scotland. Does not Bede, after he has done with that Vallum at Abercuruing in Scotland, expresly tell us of a wall of stone built in the place of Severus's turf wall? and where, pray, should this stone-wall be, but between Tinmouth and Solway frith? and was not Severus's Vallum there too? The remains of a wall are all along so very visible, that one may follow the track; and in theIn Vastis. Wastes I my self have seen pieces of it for a long way together standing entire, except the battlements only that are thrown down [dd].
For I have observ'd the tracks of it running wonderfully up the mountains, and down again; that where the fields are plain and open, there lies a broad and deep ditch all along the outside of it, only in some places it's fill'd up; and on the inside a Causey or military way, but very often broke and discontinu'd. It had great numbers of towers or little castles a mile one from another, call'd now Castlesteeds; Castlesteeds. and on the inside a sort of fortify'd little towns, which they call to this day Chesters, Chesters. the foundations whereof, in some places, appear in a square form. These had towers between them, wherein the souldiers were always in readiness to receive the Barbarians, and the Areans (whom that Theodosius but just now mention'd,Areani Exploratores. remov'd for their treachery) had their stations. These Areans were an order of men instituted by the ancients, whose business it was (as Marcellinus tells us) to make excursions into the enemy's country, and give intelligence of their motions to our officers. So that the first founders seem to have follow'd the counsel of him who writ a Book to Theodosius and his sons concerning the Arts of War. For thus he has it: One of the great interests of the Common wealth is, the care of the frontiers of the empire, which would be so much the better secur'd by good numbers of castles, built at a mile's distance from one another, with a firm wall and strong towers: Not at the publick charge, but the contributions of such as have lands thereabouts; who are to keep watch and ward in these and the fields all about, that the quiet of the Provinces (girt as it were round, and circled in) may be preserved without the least disturbance. The Inhabitants tell you that there was also a brazenTubulus. A Trumpet to convey the voice. Trumpet or Pipe (whereof they now and then find pieces) so artificially laid in the wall between each castle and tower, that upon the apprehension of danger at any single place, by the sounding of it, notice might be given to the next, then to the third, and so on. Such a wonderful contrivance as this, Xiphilin mentions out of Dio, speaking of the towers at Constantinople, in the History of Severus. But now, tho' the walls be down, and no such thing as a trumpet to be met with, yet several hereabouts hold manours and lands of the King in Cornage Cornage. (as the Lawyers word it) namely, upon condition that they give their neighbours notice of the incursion of the enemy by sounding of a horn; which some imagine to be a remain of the old Roman custom. They were also bound to serve in the Scotch wars, upon the King's summons, (as 'tis express'd from the publick Records,) in their march thither, in the van; but in their return, in the rear.
But to mark out the track of the Wall The track of the wall. more accurately: it begins at Blatum Bulgium, or Bulness, upon the Irish sea; so keeps along the side of Frith of Eden by Burg upon Sands, to Luguvallum or Carlile, where it passes the Ituna or Eden. Thence it runs along with the river Irthing below it, and passes the winding little river of Cambeck, where are the vast marks of a Castle. Afterwards passing the rivers Irthing and Poltrosse, it enters Northumberland, and through those crowding mountains runs along with the river call'd South-Tine without any interruption (save only at North-Tine, over which it was formerly continued by a bridge) to the very German ocean; as I shall shew in the proper place when I come to Northumberland.
But this structure, however great and wonderful, was not able to stop the incursions of the enemy; for no sooner had the Romans left Britain, but the Picts and Scots surprize them, make an attempt upon the wall, pull down the Guards with their crooked weapons, break through the fortifications, and [Page 840] make a strange havock of Britain, which was before almost ruin'd with civil wars, and a most grievous famine; but Gildas, a Britain, who liv'd not long after, describes to you the most deplorable calamities of those times: The Romans being drawn home, there descend in great crowds from the little narrow bores of their The highland Scots call their little Ships at this day Caroches. Caroghes or Carts, wherein they were brought over the Stitica Vallis in the text, but the Paris edition reads Scytica Vallis, possibly the Sc [...]tch sea. Stitick Vale, about the middle of summer, in a scorching hot season, a duskish swarm of vermine, or hideous crew of Scots and Picts, somewhat different in manners, but all alike thirsting after blood, &c. who finding that the old confederates [the Romans] were march'd home, and refus'd to return any more, put on greater boldness than ever, and possess'd themselves of all the north, and thfe remote parts of the Kingdom, to the very wall; as if they were the true native proprietors. To withstand this invasion, the towers [along the wall] are defended by a lazy garison, undisciplin'd, and too cowardly to engage an enemy; being enfeebled with continual sloth and idleness. In the mean while the naked enemy advance with their hooked weapons, by which the miserable Britains are pull'd down from the tops of the walls, and dash'd against the ground. Yet those who were destroy'd thus had this advantage in an untimely death, that they escaped those miserable sufferings which immediately befel their brethren and children. To be short, having quitted their Cities and the high wall, they betook themselves to flight, disbanding into a more desperate and hopeless dispersion than ever. Still the Enemy gave them chase; still more cruel punishments were prepar d; as Lambs by the bloody butcher, so were these poor Creatures hew'd to pieces by their enemies. So that they may justly, by their stay there, be compar'd to herds of wild beasts; for these miserable people did not stick to rob one another for supplys of victuals; so that in-bred dissentions enhanc'd the misery of their foreign sufferings, and brought things to that pass by this spoil and robbery, that meat (the support of life) was wanting in the Country, and no comfort of that kind to be had, but by recourse to hunting.
Thus much is farther observable,The prudence of Romans contri [...] the wa [...] That as the prudence of the Romans did so contrive this Wall as to have on the inside of it two great rivers (the Tine and Irthing, divided only by a narrow slip of land) which might be as it were another fence; so the cunning Barbarians, in their attempts upon it, commonly made choice of that part of the wall between the rivers, that after they had broke thorow, they might have no rivers in their way, but have a clear passage into the heart of the Province; as we will shew by and by in Northumberland. As for the odd stories of the common people concerning this wall, I purposely omit them; but one thing there is which I will not keep from the Reader, because I had it confirm'd by persons of good credit. There is a perswasion among most of the neighbourhood, handed down by Tradition, that the Roman garisons upon the frontiers, planted in these parts abundance of Medicinal PlantsMedi [...] Plan [...]. for their own use. Whereupon the Scotch Emperick Surgeons come to gather them every year in the beginning of Summer; the vertue whereof having found by long experience, they magnifie very much, and affirm it to be very soveraign, [ee].
ADDITIONS to CƲMBERLAND.
[a] CUmberland, in Saxon Cumbra land, and Cumer-land, and by Simeon Dunelmensis Cumbreland, tho' generally thought to be deriv'd from the ancient Cambri, is yet by aS [...]m [...]r. in Gl [...]slar. ad X. Script. late learned Author fetch'd from our Cumber, with relation to the lakes and mountains that encumber it, and make it difficult for travellers to pass.Dugd. Bar. Vol. 1. p. 5. The County is not rated in Domesday-book, being in William the Conqueror's time miserably harass'd and destroy'd by the Scots.
[b] To go along with our Author: The first Lords of Millum Millum. stil'd themselves de Millum, as William de Millum, and Henry de Millum about Henry the first's time. But in the time of Henry the third the heiress of Adam de Millum transferr'd it by marriage to her husband John Hudleston; whose posterity now enjoys it.
[c] The stones mention'd by our Author upon Hardknott, Hardknott. are possibly the ruins of some Church or Chapel, built upon the mountain. For Wormius in his Danish Monuments gives instances of the like in Denmark; and it was thought an extraordinary piece of devotion, upon the planting of Christianity in these parts, to erect Crosses and build Chapels in the most eminent places, as being both nearer Heaven, and more conspicuous: they were commonly dedicated to St. Michael. That large Tract of Mountains on the East-side of the County, call'd Cross-Fells, had the name given them upon that account; for before, they were call'd Feinds-Fell, or Devils-Fell; and Dilston a small town under them, is contracted from Devil's Town.
[d] On the bank of the river Irt is the Manour and Town of Irton, I [...]ton. or Irtindale, now in the possession of an ancient family of that name; of which Radulphus de Irton, Bishop of Carlisle, A. D. 1280. was a branch. The Muscle-Pearls are frequently found in other rivers hereabouts; as also in Wales and foreign Countries. Sir John Narborough in his late Voyage to the Magellanick Straits, A. D. 1670. tells us, he met with many of them there. Abundance of Muscles, (says he, pag. 7.) and many Seed pearls in every Muscle. And Sir Richard Hawkins, who had been there before him, affirms the same thing in his Observations printed 1622. p. 88. adding also, that the Muscles are very good Diet. There is lately a Patent granted to some Gentlemen and others, for Pearl-fishing in this river; but whether it will turn to any account is uncertain: for they are not very plentiful here; and if they are a valuable commodity, they might be had in abundance, and at no extraordinary charge from the Straits of Magellan.
Tacitus (in the Life of Agricola) takes notice that the British Pearls are subfusca ac liventia; but that character ought not to have been given in general terms. Bede's account (Hist. Eccl. l. 1. c. 1.) is more just; where he says they are of all colours. Those that are not bright and shining (and such indeed are the most of what we meet with in Irt, Inn, &c.) are usually call'd Sand-pearl, which are as useful in Physick as the finest, tho' not so valuable in beauty. The great Naturalist of our Age Dr. Lister (de Cochl. Fluv. sect. 2.) says he has found sixteen of those in one Muscle; and asserts of 'em all, that they are only Senescentium Musculorum vitia.
[e] At S. Bees the holy Virgin S. Bega S. B [...] is said to have founded a Nunnery; but it does not appear that 'twas ever endow'd, or that it continued for any time as a voluntary Society. It is probable enough that 'twas ruin'd and dispers'd in the civil wars before the Conquest; and that the Priory of Benedictines built and endow'd afterwards by William de Micenis, was in the same place. Here is a good Grammar-school, founded and endow'd by Edmund Grindal Archbishop of Canterbury, born here. It has a Library belonging to it, and is much improv'd by the munificence of Dr. Lamplugh late Archbishop of York, Dr. Smith the present Bishop of Carlisle, Sir John Lowther of Whitehaven, and others. The right of presenting a Master is in the Provost and Fellows of Queen's College in Oxford; to which Society its Founder was also a considerable Benefactor.
Below S. Bees is White-haven, W [...] h [...] so call'd from the white rocks and cliffs that are near it. 'Tis chiefly beholden for it's improvement, to Sir John Lowther, [Page 841] who takes his title of distinction from it, and has a considerable estate there.
[f] To Keswick [...]ck. and the Parish of Crosthwait (in which it lyes) was given a considerable benefaction for the erecting of a Manufacture-house, and maintaining the Poor, by Sir John Banks Knight, Attorney General temp. Car. 1. who (as I take it) was born here. The Charity is still preserv'd, and well dispos'd of.
[g] Upon the Font at Bridekirk, [...]eki [...]k. it seems very plain that the figures are no other than the Pictures of S. John Baptist and our Saviour baptized by him in the river Jordan: the descent of the Holy Ghost in the shape of a Dove, is very plain. As to the Inscription, what our Author was puzl'd with, has been since discover'd by the ingenious and learned Antiquary Mr. William Nicolson, Arch-deacon of Carlisle, who some years ago express'd his thoughts of it at large in the following Letter to Sir William Dugdale.
MY Worthy and good Lord, our Bishop, was lately pleased to acquaint me, that you were desirous to have my thoughts of the Inscription on the Font at Bridekirk in this County. I am, Sir, extremely conscious of the rashness of bringing any thing of mine to the view of so discerning an Antiquary; but, withal, very tender of disobeying so great and worthy a person I know you were pleased to make your own observations upon it, in your visitation of these parts, when Norroy: and I shall hope that you will give me an opportunity of rectifying, by yours, my following conjectures.
1. The Fabrick of this Monument does, I think, fairly enough evince, that 'tis Christian; and that it is now used to the same purpose for which it was at first designed. Mr. Camden (tho' not acquainted with the Characters of the Inscription, yet) seems to fancy thus much: and, for proof of his opinion, brings a notable quotation out of S Paulinus's Epistles. But he needed not to have sent us so far off for a Voucher; if he had taken good notice of the Imagery on the East side of this stone; as I doubt not, Sir, but you have done. We have there, fairly represented, a person in a long Sacerdotal Habit dipping a Child into the water; and a Dove (the Emblem, no doubt, of the H. Ghost) hovering over the Infant. Now, Sir, I need not acquaint you, that the Sacrament of Baptism was anciently administred by plunging into the water, in the Western as well as Eastern parts of the Church; and that the Gothic word [...] (Mar. 1.8. and Luc. 3.7. & 12.) the German word cauffen, the Danish Døbe, and the Belgic doopen, do as clearly make out that practice, as the Greek word Βαπτίζω: Nor, that they may all seem to be deriv'd from [δύπτειν] another word of the same Language and signification, and are evidently akin to our English Dip, Deep, and Depth. Indeed, our Saxon Ancestors expressed the Action of Baptism by a word of a different import from the rest. For, in the fore-mention'd place of S. Mark's Gospel their Translation has the Text thus: ic eoƿ fullige on ƿætere, he eoƿ fullað on halgum gaste, i.e. Ego vos aquis Baptizo; ille vos Spiritu Sancto Baptizabit. Where the word fullian or fulligean signifies only simply Lavare: Whence the Latin word Fullo, and our Fuller have their original. But from hence to conclude, that the Saxons did not use dipping in the Sacrament of Baptism, is somewhat too harsh an Argument.
2. There are other Draughts on the North and West side of the Font, which may very probably make for our purpose: but with these (as not thorowly understanding them, and having not had an opportunity of getting them drawn in Paper) I shall not trouble you at present.
3. On the South side of the stone we have the inscription, which I have taken care accurately to write out; and 'tis as follows:
Now, these kind of Characters are well enough known (since Ol. Wormius's great Industry in making us acquainted with the Literatura Runica) to have bin chiefly used by the Pagan inhabitants of Denmark, Sweden, and the other Northern Kingdoms; and the Danes are said to have swarmed mostly in these parts of our Island. Which two considerations, seem weighty enough to perswade any man at first sight to conclude, that the Font is a Danish Monument. But then on the other hand, we are sufficiently assured, that the Heathen Saxons did also make use of these Runae; as is plainly evident from the frequent mention of Run-cræftigen and Run-stafas in many of the Monuments of that Nation, both in Print and Manuscript still to be met with. Besides, we must not forget that both Danes and Saxons are indebted to this Kingdom for their Christianity: and therefore thus far their pretensions to a Runic (Christian) Monument may be thought equal. Indeed some of the Letters (as Ð, Ȝ and &) seem purely Saxon, being not to be met with among Wormius's many Alphabets: and the words themselves (if I mistake them not) come nearer to the ancient Saxon Dialect, than the Danish. However, let the Inscription speak for it self: and I question not but 'twill convince any competent and judicious Reader, that 'tis Danish. Thus therefore I have ventur'd to read and explain it; ‘Er Ekard han men egrocten, and to dis men red wer Taner men brogten.’ i.e. ‘Here Ekard was converted; and to this Man's example were the Danes brought.’ There are only two things in the Inscription (thus interpreted) that will need an Explanation.
1. Who this Ekard was. And this is indeed a Question of that difficulty, that I confess I am not able exactly to answer it. The proper name it self is ordinary enough in the Northern Histories, though variously written: as, Echardus, Echinardus, Eginardus, Ecardus, and Eckhardus. 'Tis certainly a name of Valour, as all others of the like termination; such as Bernhard, Everhard, Gothard, Reinhard, &c. So that it may well become a General, or other great Officer in the Danish Army: and such we have just reason to believe him to have been, who is here drawn into an example for the rest of his Countrymen. Our Historians are not very particular in their accounts of the several Incursions and Victories of the Danes, and their own writers much more imperfect: and therefore, in cases of this nature, we must content our selves with probable conjectures.
2. Han men egrocten; which, render'd verbatim, is Have men turn'd, i.e. was turn'd. A phrase, to this day, very familiar in most dialects of the ancient Celtic tongue, though lost in our English. In the High-Dutch 'tis especially obvious; as, Man Saget, Man hat gesagt, Man lobet, &c. and the French impersonals (On dit, On fait, &c.) are of the same strain; and evident Arguments that the Teutonick and Gaulish Tongues were anciently near akin.
The Characters [...] and [...] are manifest Abbreviations of several Letters into one; of which sort we have great variety of examples in several of Wormius's Books: And such I take the Letter Ð to be, instead of [...] and þ; and not the Saxon Ð. I must believe & to be borrowed from the Saxons; and Ȝ I take to be a corruption of their Ƿ or W. The rest has little of difficulty in it. Only the Language of the whole seems a mixture of the Danish and Saxon Tongues; but that can be no other than the natural effect of the two Nations being jumbled together in this part of the World. Our Borderers, to this day, speak a leash of Languages (British, Saxon, and Danish) in one; and 'tis hard to determine which of those three Nations has the greatest share in the Motly Breed.
[h] More Northward upon the Western-shore, is Bulness, Bulness. where are frequently found Roman Coins and Inscriptions; and not long since was dug up a small brazen figure of a Mercury, or a Victory. It is in the custody of John Aglionby Esq a curious preserver of all such valuable remains of Antiquity.
[i] At the very place where the brave and valiant King Edward the first expir'd (the memory whereof had been preserv'd by some great stones roll'd upon it) is erected a very fair square Pillar, nine yards and a half in height. On the West-side of it is this Inscription, in large Roman Letters: ‘Memoriae aeternae Edvardi 1. Regis Angliae longè clarissimi, qui in Belli apparatu contra Scotos occupatus, hic in Castris obiit, 7. Julij, A.D. 1307.’ On the South-side: ‘Nobilissimus Princeps, Henricus Howard, Dux Norfolciae, Comes Mareshall. Angliae, Comes Arund. &c..... ab Edvardo 1. Rege Angliae oriundus P. 1685.’ On the North-side: ‘Johannes Aglionby J. C. F. C. i.e. Jurisconsultus fieri fecit.— Beneath; Tho. Langstone fecit, 1685.’
[k] Near Dacre stands Dalemayn, Dalemayn. the Mansion-house of Edward Hassel Esq holden of the Barony of Graystock in Cornage.
[l] In the Church-yard at Penrith, Penrith. on the North-side of the Church, are erected two large Pillars of about four yards in height each, and about five yards distant one from the other. 'Tis said, they were let in memory of one Sir Ewen Caesarius Knight, in old time a famous warriour of great strength and stature, who liv'd in these parts, and kill'd wild Boars in the forest of Englewood, which much infested the Country. He was bury'd here, they say, and was of such a prodigious stature, as to reach from one pillar to the other; and they tell you that the rude figures of Bears which are done in stone, and erected two on each side of his Grave between the Pillars, are in memory of his great Exploits upon these Creatures.
On the North out-side of the Vestry in the wall, in rude Characters, there is this writing, for a Memorandum to posterity. Fuit pestis, &c. i.e. There was a plague in this County A. D. 1598. whereof dy'd, at Kendal 2500. at Richmond 2200. at Penrith 2266. and at Carlisle 1196. Which passage is the more observable and worth our notice, because not to be met withal in our Histories.
[m] Our Author seems to intimate that Henry 8. first of all peopled Plumpton-park; Plu [...]pton-park. whereas he only gave greater freedom and liberty to the Inhabitants by disforesting it: for there were as many Parishes and Townships in it before his time, as are since. Hutton and Edenhall were Parishes in the time of Henry the first, and given by him to the Cathedral at Carlisle, and so was Wedderhall, Warwick, Lazonby, Skelton, Sowerby, St. Maries, St. Cuthbert's, Carliol and Dalston; all Parishes at or near the time of the Conquest, and all in the forest of Englewood, or bordering very near upon it. It was sixteen miles in length, reaching from Penrith to Carlisle, Chron. Lane [...]c. and Edward the first in hunting in this forest, is said to have kill'd two hundred Bucks in one day.
[n] Half a mile below the confluence of Eden and Eimot, on the very bank of the former, is a Grotto A Grotto. of two rooms dug out of the rocks, call'd Isis Parlish, to which there is a difficult and perillous passage. In former times it was certainly a place of strength and security; for it had Iron-gates belonging to it, which were standing within these few years.
[o] Below Graystock, upon the banks of Petterel lyes Blencow, Blencow. belonging to an ancient and worthy family of that name. Here is a very good Grammar-School, founded and endow'd, 20 Eliz. by Mr. Thomas Bourbank, a person of piety and learning, who was born in the Town, and had taught School himself in Northamptonshire.
[p] From hence the river runs to Hutton-hall, anciently the possession of a family of that name; of whom it was purchas'd by the Fletchers, who have so much improv'd it in buildings, walks, gardens, &c. that now 'tis one of the pleasantest seats in this Country. 'Tis now the dwelling place of Sir George Fletcher, Knight and Baronet, to whose care and contrivance it is chiefly beholden for its Improvements. The estate is within the Haia de Plompton, andEs [...]act An [...]il held of the King by this Service amongst others, that the Lord of Hutton, shall Tenere stippam sellae Domini Regis, dum equum suum in Castro suo Carlioli scanderit, or, hold the King's stirrop at Carlisle-Castle.
[q] Rose-Castle, Rose- [...] in our Author's time, might be what he terms it, Nitidum Castellum; but in the Civil wars it was burnt down by order of Col. Heveringham, An. 1652. What was standing of it at the Restoration, Dr. Stern, then Bishop, repair'd, and made habitable. Dr. Rainbow his successor, built a Chapel, and put the House in somewhat better condition. Dr. Thomas Smith, the present Bishop, has added a new Tower to the former building; and by the great expence he has been at in altering and beautifying, has made it a very convenient House: but 'tis still far short of its former magnificence. King Edward the first in his expedition against Scotland lodg'd here, and dated his Writs, for summoning a Parliament, apud le Rose.
[r] More Northward is Carlisle; Car [...] whither a Colony of Southern English-men were sent in the time of William Rufus, as our Author tells us. The Saxon Chronicle, indeed, has it Eyrlisces folces, which at first sight should seem to be an errour for Englisces; and so our Author's assertion were made good. But 'tis undoubtedly an errour of the Librarian for Cyrlisces, and so the words imply, That a great number of Husbandmen were sent thither, and not English-men, for before that time, the Inhabitants of Carlisle were English. And what follows in the Saxon Chronicle ðat land to tilianne, strengthens the conjecture, expressing the errand upon which they were sent; viz. to cultivate those parts. To this Colony it is, that all the Records ascribe the first tillage that was known thereabouts. 'Tis certain, the whole forest of Inglewood lay uncultivated for many years after. This grand benefaction to Cumberland, is plac'd by Matthew Paris, and our other Historians, under the year 1093. only the Saxon Chronicle says it was in 1092.
Our Author mentions a complaint against this Church, made by the Church of Durham. But there could be no reason for any such complaint; for that which is now the Diocese of Carlisle, was then lookt upon as part of the Arch-deaconry of Richmond, MSS. L [...] land. Chron. Lanerr [...] Bibl. Co [...] ton. was granted to the new Bishop by Thurstan Archbishop of York, and confirm'd by the Dean and Chapter of York. The Arch-deacons indeed did claim it, and had a long suit at Rome about it, An 1201. but it does not appear that either the Bishop of Candida Casa, or of Durham, did ever put in their claim, or question the King's and Archbishop's power in what they had done; as neither at what time, nor upon what account the Grant of some part of it to S. Cuthbert was reversed.
Upon the Restoration of King Charles the second, this place gave the honourable title of Earl to Charles (son of Sir William) Howard created April 2. in the thirteenth of his reign, Lord Dacres of Gillesland, Vicount Howard of Morpeth, and Earl of Carlisle; for being highly instrumental in that happy Restoration.
[s] Over the river Eden is Stanwicks Stanwic [...] or Stanewegges, (i.e. a place upon the Stony-way) a Town in the time of Henr. 1. who gave the Appropriation to the Church of Carlisle. The Picts wall is very visible here; and at Drawdykes, a seat of John Aglionby Esq is a Roman Altar with this Inscription:
[t] At Netherby, Netherb [...] the seat of the Grayhams, besides the Roman Inscription set down by our Author, there are several others, collected and carefully placed in order by Sir Richard Grahme Knight and Baronet, [Page 843] Grandfather to the honourable Richard L. Viscount Preston. There was found lately a gold Coin of Nero's of good value; and two stones with the following Inscriptions. The one, IMP. COMM. COS. i.e. Imperatori Commodo Consuli, which (I suppose) was erected in the year of Christ 155. when that Emperour was saluted by the title of Imperator Britannicus. The other, DEO MARTI BELATVCADRO RO. VR. RP. CAII ORVSII M. Whereby it appears that Belatucadrus was the same with Mars, under a more terrible name. 'Tis probable it comes from Bel, Baal, and Belinus, the great Idol of the Assyrians, which Cedrenus says was the same with Mars; and which the Roman and German Souldiers might like better under a harsh and fuller termination.
[u] The letters of the Inscription at Beau-Castle [...]u-castle. are still legible enough. A few of them (but unskilfully copy'd) were communicated to our Author himself, A.D. 1618. asVid. Olai [...]ermii [...] Dan. [...]g. 161. Sir Henry Spelman witnesses. Others are explain'd in a Letter to Mr. Walker, sent him by the same learned Gentleman, who communicated his thoughts of that at Bridekirk to Sir William Dugdale. For your satisfaction, please to take the account at large.
'TIS now high time to make good my promise of giving you a more perfect account of our two Runic Inscriptions at Beau-castle and Bridekirk. The former is fallen into such an untoward part of our Country, and so far out of the common Road, that I could not much sooner have either an opportunity or the courage to look after it. I was assur'd by the Curate of the place, (a Person of good sence and Learning in greater matters) that the Characters were so miserably worn out since the Lord William Howard's time, (by whom they were communicated to Sir H. Spelman, and mention'd by Wormius, Mon. Dan. p. 161.) that they were now wholly defac'd, and nothing to be met with worth my while. The former part of this Relation I found to be true: for (tho' it appears that the foremention'd Inscription has been much larger than Wormius has given it, yet) 'tis at present so far lost, that in six or seven lines none of the Characters are fairly discernable, save only
; and these too are incoherent, and at great distance from each other. However, this Epistylium Crucis (as Sir H. Spelman in his Letter to Wormius has called it) is to this day a noble Monument, and highly merits the view of a curious Antiquary. The best account, Sir, I am able to give you of it, be pleas'd to take as follows.
'Tis one entire Free-stone, of about five yards in height, wash'd over (as the Font at Bridekirk) with a white oily Cement, to preserve it the better from the injuries of time and weather. The figure of it enclines to a square Pyramid, each side whereof is near two foot broad at the bottom, but upwards more tapering. On the West side of the Stone we have three fair Draughts, which evidently enough manifest the Monument to be Christian. The lowest of these represents the Portraicture of a Layman, with an Hawk or Eagle perch'd on his Arm. Over his Head are the foremention'd ruins of the Lord Howard's Inscription. Next to these, the Picture of some Apostle, Saint, or other Holy man, in a sacerdotal habit, with a Glory round his Head. On the top stands the Effigies of the B. V. with the Babe in her Arms, and both their Heads encircled with Glories, as before.
On the North we have a great deal of Chequerwork, subscribed with the following Characters fairly legible.
Upon the first sight of these Letters I greedily ventured to read them Rynburu; and was wonderfully pleased to fancy, that this word thus singly written, must necessarily betoken the final extirpation and burial of the Magical Runae in these parts, reasonably hoped for upon the conversion of the Danes to the Christian Faith: for that the Danes were anciently, as well as some of the Laplanders at present, gross Idolaters and Sorcerers, is beyond Controversie; and I could not but remember, that all our Historians tell us, that they brought their Paganism along with them into this Kingdom. And therefore 'twas not very difficult to imagine that they might for some time practise their Hocus tricks here in the North, where they were most numerous and least disturbed. This conceit was the more heightened, by reflecting upon the natural superstition of our borderers at this day, who are much better acquainted with, and do more firmly believe their old Legendary Stories of Fairies and Witches, than the Articles of their Creed. And to convince me yet further, that they are not utter strangers to the Black Arts of their forefathers, I accidentally met with a Gentleman in the neighbourhood who shew'd me a Book of Spells and Magical Receipts, taken (two or three days before) in the Pocket of one of our Moss-Troopers; wherein, among many other conjuring feats, was prescrib'd a certain Remedy for an Ague, by applying a few barbarous characters to the Body of the party distemper'd. These, methought, were very near akin to Wormius's RAMRUNER, which, he says, differ'd wholly in figure and shape from the common Runae. For though he tells us, that these Ramruner were so called, Eo quod molestias, dolores, morbosque hisce infligere inimicis soliti sint Magi; yet his great friend Arng. Jonas, more to our purpose, says, That — His etiam usi sunt ad benefaciendum, juvandum, medicandum tam animi quam Corporis morbis; atque ad ipsos Cacodaemones pellendos & fugandos. I shall not trouble you with a draught of this Spell, because I have not yet had an opportunity of learning whether it may not be an ordinary one, and to be met with (among others of the same nature) in Paracelsus or Cornelius Agrippa.
If this conjecture be not allowable; I have, Sir, one more which (it may be) you will think more plausible than the former. For if, instead of making the third and fourth Letters to be two
we should suppose them to be
E. E. the word will then be Ryeeburu; which I take to signifie, in the old Danish Language, Coemiterium or Cadaverum Sepulchrum. For, tho' the true old Runic word for Cadaver be usually written
Hrae; yet the H may, without any violence to the Orthography of that tongue, be omitted at pleasure; and then the difference of spelling the word, here at Beau-castle, and on some of the ragged Monuments in Denmark, will not be great. And for the countenancing of this latter Reading, I think the above-mentioned Chequer-work may be very available: since in that we have a notable Emblem of the Tumuli, or burying places of the Ancients. (Not to mention the early custom of erecting Crosses and Crucifixes in Church-yards: which perhaps being well weigh'd, might prove another encouragement to this second Reading.) I know the Checquer to be the Arms of the Vaux's, or De Vallibus, the old Proprietors of this part of the North; but that, I presume, will make nothing for our turn. Because this and the other carved work on the Cross, must of necessity be allow'd to bear a more ancient date than any of the Remains of that Name and Family; which cannot be run up higher than the Conquest.
On the East we have nothing but a few Flourishes, Draughts of Birds, Grapes and other Fruits: all which I take to be no more than the Statuary's Fancy.
On the South, flourishes and conceits, as before, and towards the bottom, the following decay'd Inscription.
The Defects in this short piece are sufficient to discourage me from attempting to expound it. But (possibly) it may be read thus:
I confess this has no affinity (at least, being thus interpreted) with the foregoing Inscription: but may well enough suit with the manners of both ancient and modern Inhabitants of this Town and Country.
Upon your pardon and correction, Sir, of the impertinencies and mistakes in this (which I shall humbly hope for) I shall trouble you with my further Observations on the Font at Bridekirk; and to all your other Commands shall pay that ready obedience which becomes,
Besides these, there is a large Inscription on the west; and on the south side of the Stone, these Letters fairly discernable,
Of the meaning whereof, the Gentleman who communicated his conjectures upon the rest to Mr. Walker, will give his opinion at large in his History of Northumberland, Part 6.
At Scalby-Castle S [...]alby-Castle. (the seat of Dr. Gilpin) are preserv'd three Altars, which were dug up in those parts. One, not far from the castle found in the river Irdin, in a stone colour'd with a sort of yellow, and of this figure:
The second was dug up at Cambeck, in the ruins of an old stone-wall, and is of this form.
This third is imperfect; and in what place it was found I cannot positively say: ‘DEO. COCIDI
COH. I. AEL —
—
— A — VS’
[w] At Brampton Brampto [...] there is an Hospital for six poor men, and as many poor women, with allowance for a Chaplain, lately founded and endow'd by the Right Honourable Elizabeth Countess Dowager of Carlisle, mother to the present Earl of Carlisle.
[x] Upon the river Irthing lyes Naworth-Castle, Naworth now in the possession of the Right Honourable Charles Howard Earl of Carlisle (great grandson to that Lord William mention'd by our Author) who has repair'd the Castle, and made it fit for the reception of a Family. Here is a Library, formerly well furnish'd with Books; and there are stillCa [...] [...]. Lib. M [...] Oxen. many Manuscripts of value, relating chiefly to Heraldry and English History. In the Hall are the Pictures of all the Kings of England down from the Saxon times, which were brought from Kirk-Oswald-Castle when that was demolish'd, about 100 years ago. In the garden-wall are a great many stones with Roman Inscriptions, which were collected and placed there by some of the Family. Some of them are not legible, others are. On one is ‘IVL. AVG. DVO.. M SILV.. VM.’ On another, ‘.I. O. M.... II. AEL. DAC.. C. P... EST
/RELIVS. FA. L. S. TRIB. PET. VO. COS.’ On another, ‘LEG. II. AVG.’ On another, ‘COH. I. AEL. DAC. CORD.. ALEC. PER....’ With some others which are plainly the same with those Mr. Camden has copied out, and which in all likelihood were brought hither from Willyford.
[y] Not far from Lanercost is a medicinal spring, which issues out of a rock; the water is impregnated with Sulphur, Nitre, and Vitriol, and is said to be very good for the Spleen, the Stone, and all Cutaneous distempers. In the summer time it is much frequented both by the Scotch and English.
[z] What our Author has told us in relation to the Lords of Gillesland, seems to be a mistake. For first, Ranulph and Radulph are the same name, and Ranulph de Mechinis is call'd indifferently by these two.Chron. Cumb [...] Dugd. [...] vol. 1. p [...] Id. Bar. [...] p. 525. Then Ranulph de Micenis, who was Lord of Cumberland by Grant from the Conqueror, was the very same who was afterwards Earl of Chester by descent, after the death of his Cousin-german Richard, second Earl of Chester, who was son to John Bohun and Margaret his wife, sister to Hugh Lupus first Earl of Chester. Again, William de Micenis, brother to Randolph de Micenis, was Lord of Coupland, but not of Gillesland; for upon Randolph's resignation of the County of Cumberland into the hands of King Henry 1. Randolph had given Gillesland to Hubert de Vallibus, which Grant the King confirm'd to him, and his Successors enjoy'd it. The Right Honourable Charles Howard present Earl of Carlisle, and Lord of Gillesland, claims descent from him by the mother's side, according to the pedigree of the Family, which is to be seen in his Chapel at Naworth-Castle.
Continuation of the EARLS.
Francis, the last Earl mention'd by our Author, dying in the year of our Lord 1641. was succeeded by his only son Francis, who dy'd at York, 1643. leaving issue one only daughter; so that the male line [Page 845] of that most ancient and noble family is now extinct. At present his Royal Highness Prince George of Denmark honours this County by having the title of Duke of Cumberland, which was enjoy'd before him by Prince Rupert, Prince Palatine of the Rhine, a person of admirable courage and bravery.
[aa] If our Author means by the Praetentura of Agricola, any thing of Walls or Rampires, we may justly question the truth of it, since the learned [...] E [...]l. p 3.6. Archbishop Usher has prov'd out of Tacitus, that Agricola only garison'd the Frontiers at this place, without contriving any other sence. 'Tis likely, that according to the Roman custom, he plac'd some of his troops within the limits of the Barbarians Country, intra fines Horestorum: for these Horesti were not the inhabitants on the river Esk, near the borders of England (as our Author afterwards in his description of Scotland asserts) but those of Angus and Mernes, as the Scotch Historians sufficiently evidence, particularly the learned Sir George Mackenzie, Defence of the Royal Line, p. 79. [...] in [...], Not but Mr. Camden's foundation may for all that stand good, and the Horesti be deriv'd from Ar-Esc; considering there is a South as well as a North Esk.
[...]od [...].[bb] Not many years ago there was found (on the ruins of the Wall, a little below Carlisle) a small wing'd image of brass, somewhat more than half a foot in length, well agreeing with the description which some of the ancients have given us of the god Terminus. 'Tis now in the possession of the right honourable Sir John Lowther of Lowther, Baronet.
[cc] Buchanan maintains, that Severus's Rampier was at Grimesdike; but Fordon and Major, as well as Hector Boëtius, are of Camden's opinion. The Controversie will be best determin'd by considering the length, as it is deliver'd by several authors. Eutropius sets it at XXXII; and if some others have XXXV, 'tis easie to imagine, that a little inadvertency in a Transcriber might change II into V. Thus far the account seems to make for Buchanan, that Severus's fortification was really between the two Friths of Edenburrow and Dumbritton. And Paulus Orosius (who computes its length at CXXXII. miles) goes so far beyond the extent of that which reach'd from Solway to Tinmouth, that thence no true estimate is to be had. But 'tis most likely, that this whole difference is to be stated by Spartianus, who (rightly) asserts, that the extent of Hadrian's ditch was LXXX miles. Out of this number (by the heedless change of L into C) the copyers of Orosius made CXXX, and by a careless dropping of the same Letter, the transcribers of Eutropius turn'd it into XXXV. Usher Antiquitat. p. 316.. As to the dispute betwixt the Archbishop and our Author, Whether Severus's work was a wall of stone or a rampier of earth? we shall only add to the authorities produc'd by Camden, that the Royal Paraphrast uponEccl. Hist. l. 1. c. 5. Bede says, it was mid dice and mid eoƿþ-ƿealle: andLib. 1. c. 12. afterwards speaking of a later fabrick of Stone in the same place, he says, it was built ðær Severus se Casere in het dician & eopð ƿall geƿyrcan. The Saxon Chronicle also affirms, that it was of turfum. And if that expression [ [...]] of Agathemer (who is suppos'd to have liv'd in Severus's time) have any relation to this work, it very much countenances the opinion of Bede and Mr. Camden. Vide Geogr. Agathem. (edit. à Sam. Tennulio, Amst. 1671.) p. 45, 74, & 86.
[dd] That this last Wall was built betwixt Tinmouth and Solway-Frith, Lib. 1. c. 12. Bede seems most peremptorily to assert. And yet Archbishop Usher (Antiquitat. Eccl. p. 317.) enclines rather to Buchanan's opinion, that it was at Grimesdike, and thinks this conjecture supported by Gildas's saying, that it was built recto tramite; which (says he) that betwixt Bowness and Tinmouth is not. With the Archbishop agrees our very learned Bishop of Coventry and Lichfield (then of St. Asaph) in his historical account of Church-government, &c. p. 4. And 'tis certain, that along Grimesdike there are here and there (as the Gordons in Bleau's Atlas have observ'd) several ruins of Stone-buildings: nor can we doubt but there were Forts of stone erected at due distances along that Rampier. But 'tis certain, that in most places there appear no manner of remains of a stone-building; whereas a continu'd stone-wall is easily follow'd from Carlisle to New-castle. As for Nennius's story, (Hist. Brit. cap. 19.) 'tis so full of contradictions, that there's no regarding it: and after all the stress that's laid upon Gildas's expression, a man shall hardly travel the length of The Picts-Wall in any great road in England, that goes more (recto tramite) in a streight line than it does.
[ee] As to the Medicinal Plants, Mr. Nicolson (to whom we owe these observations upon the WALL, as well as several others throughout the Province of York) has made very diligent search, but could never meet with any sort of Plants growing along the Wall, which is not as plentiful in some other part of the Country.
An Account of the Division of Cumberland by William the Conquerour amongst his Followersa; taken out of two ancient Latin Manuscripts in the Library of the Dean and Chapter of Carlisle; carefully Collated by the Reverend Dr. Hugh Todd.
KING William, sirnam'd the Bastard, Duke of Normandy, Conqueror of England, gave all the Lands of the County of Cumberland to Ranulphus de Meschins: and to Galfridus, Brother to the said Ranulphus, he gave the whole County of Chestre: and to William another brother, he gave all the Land of Coupland, between Duden and Darwent.
Ranulphus de Meschins, infeoffed Hubbertus de b Waux in the Barony of Gillisland; and Ranulphus his brother in Sowerby, Carlaton, and Hubbrightby. And Robert the third brother, in the Barony of Dalston. He infeoffed also Robert Destrivers im the Barony of Burgh, and Richerus de Boyvile in the Barony of Levington; and Odardus de Logis in the Barony of Stanyton. He infeoffed also Waldevus, son of Gospatricius Earl of Dunbar in Scotland, in all the Barony of Allerdale between Wathenpole and Darwent.
The aforesaid William de Meschins Lord of Coupland infeoffed Waldevus son of Gospatricius, in all the Land that lyes between Cocar and Darwent, and also in these five Townships, Brigham, Eglysfeld, Dene, Brainthwaite, and Grisothen: and in the two Clistons and Staneburne. He infeoffed also Odardus le Clerk in the fourth part of Crostwaite, pro Custodia Asturcorum c suorum, i.e. for keeping his Goshawkes.
Galfridus de Meschins Earl of Chester dy'd without issue: and thereupon Ranulphus de Meschins became Earl of Chestre; and surrender'd to the King all the County of Cumberland on this condition, That all those that held Lands of him in Fee, should hold of the King in Capite.
The foresaid Waldevus son of Earl Gospatricius infeoffed Odardus de Logis, in the Barony of Wygton, Dondryt, Waverton, Blencogo, and Kirkbride: which Odardus de Logis founded the Church of Wygton; [Page 846] and gave to Odardus son of Liolfe, Tulentyre and Castlerige, with the Forest between Caltre and Greta: and to the Prior and Convent of Gisburne he gave Appleton and Bricekirk, with the Advowson of the Church there. He gave also to Adam son of Liolfe, Uldendale and Gilcruce: and to Gemellus son of Brun, Bothill; and to Waldevus son of Gileminius, with Ethreda his sister, he gave Brogham, Ribton, and Litle Brogham, and Donwaldese and Bowaldese ad unam Logiam, for a Lodge or House for a Ranger. He gave also to Ormus son of Ketellus, Seton, Camberton, Flemingbi, Craiksothen, in marriage with Gurwelda his sister: And to Dolfinus son of Abwaldus, with Matilda another sister, he gave Appletwhaite and Litle Crosby, Langrige and Brigham, with the Advowson of the Church there. He gave also to Melbeth his Physician, the Town of Bromefeld; saving to himself the Advowson of the Church there.
Alanus, son and heir of the said Waldevus, gave to Ranulphus Lyndsey, Blenerhasset and Ukmanby, with Ethereda his sister. To Uthrdeus, son of Fergus Lord of Galloway, in marriage with Gurnelda d his other sister, he gave Torpenhow, with the Advowson of the Church there. He gave also to Catellus de Spenser e, Threpeland. He gave also to Herbert the Manour of Thuresby, for the third part of a Township. He gave also to Gospatricius, son of Ormus, High Ireby for the third part of a Township. He gave also to Gamellus le Brun f, Rughtwaite, for a third part of a Township. He gave also to Radulphus Engaine, Issael, with the Appurtenances; and Blencrake with the Service of Newton. And the same Alanus had one Bastard-brother nam'd Gospatricius, to whom he gave Boulton, Bastinthwaite and Esterholme. And to Odardus he gave Newton, with the Appurtenances. And to his three Huntsmen, Sleth g and his Companions, Hayton. To Uctredus he gave one Carrucat of Land in Aspatrike, on condition that he should be his Summoner (Summonitor) in Allerdale. He gave also to Delfinus six Bovates or Oxgang of Land in High-Crossby, that he should be Serviens D. Regis, the King's Serjeant in Allerdale. And to Simon de Shestelyngs he gave one Moiety of Deram: And to Dolfinus, son of Gospatricius, the other Moiety. He gave also to Waldevus, son of Dolfinus, Brakanthwaite. And to the Priory of S. Bega, he gave Stainburne. And to the Priory of Carliol, he gave the body of Waldevus his son, with the Holy Cross, which they have yet in possession; and Crossby, with the Advowson of the Church there; with the Service that Uctredus owed him: and also the Advowson of the Church of Aspatrike, with the Service of Alanus de Brayton. He gave them also the Advowson of the Church of Ireby, with the Suit and Service of Waldevus de Langthwaite.
The same Alanus son of Waldevus, gave to King Henry h the Fields of the Forest of Allerdale, with liberty to hunt, whenever he should lodge at Holme-Cultrane. To this Alanus succeeded William son of Duncane Earl of Murrayse, Nephew and Heir to the said Alanus, as being son to Ethreda, sister to his father Waldevus.
The foresaid William, son of Duncanus, espoused Alicia daughter of Robert de Rumeney, Lord of Skipton in Craven: which Robert had married a daughter of Meschins i Lord of Coupland. This William had by this Alicia his wife, a son call'd William de Egremond (who dy'd under age) and three daughters. The eldest nam'd Cicilia k, being a Ward, was married by King Henry to William le Gross Earl of Albemarle, with the Honour of Skipton for her Dower. The second, nam'd Amabilla, was married to Reginald de Luce, with the Honour of Egremond, by the same King Henry. And the third, nam'd Alicia de Romelic, was married to Gilbert Pipard, with Aspatrike, and the Barony of Allerdale and the Liberty of Cokermouth, by the said King Henry: and afterwards by the Queen, to Robert de Courtney: but she dy'd without heirs of her body.
William le Gross Earl of Albemarlie, had by his wife Cicilia, Harwisia l; to whom succeeded William de Fortibus, Earl of Albemarlie: to whom succeeded another William de Fortibus; to whom succeeded Avelina who was espoused to Lord Edmond, brother to King Edward, and dy'd without heirs, &c.
Reginald de Luce by Amabilla his wife, hadm Alicia. To Amabilla succeeded Lambert de Multon: To him succeeded Thomas Multon de Egremond. And to Alicia succeeded Thomas de Luce n, to whom succeeded Thomas his son; who was succeded by Anthony his Brother.
More rare Plants growing wild in Westmoreland and Cumberland.
Lan. Eruca Monensis laciniata lutea. Jagged yellow Rocket of the Isle of Man. In Sella fields Sea-bank, found growing abundantly by Mr. Lawson.
Echium marinum P. B. Sea-Bugloss. On the Seashore near White-haven plentifully, Mr. Newton.
W. Gladiolus lacustris Dortmanni Clus. cur. post. Water Gilly-flower or Gladiole. In the Lake call'd Hulls-water, which parteth Westmoreland and Cumberland.
Orobus sylvaticus nostras. English Wood-vetch. At Gamblesby about six miles from Pereth in the way to New-castle, in the hedges and pastures plentifully.
Vitis Idaea magna quibusdam, sive Myrtillus grandis J. B. Idaea foliis subrotundis exalbidis C.B. Idaea foliis subrotundis major Ger. Vaccinai nigra fructu majore Park. The great Bilberry-bush. In the same place with the precedent, but where the ground is moist and marshy.
An Additional account of some more rare Plants observ'd to grow in Westmoreland and Cumberland, by Mr. Nicolson, Arch-deacon of Carlisle.
Cannabis spuria fl. magno albo perelegante. About Blencarn, in the parish of Kirkland, Cumberland.
Equisetum nudum variegatum minus. In the meadows near Great Salkeld; and in most of the like sandy grounds in Cumberland.
Geranium Batrachoides longiùs radicatum, odoratum. In Mardale and Martindale, Westm.
Hesperis Pannonica inodora. On the banks of the Rivulets about Dalehead in Cumberland, and Grassmire im Westmoreland.
Orchis palmata palustris Dracontias. Upon the old Mill-race at little Salkeld, and on Langwathby-Holm, Cumberland.
Cynosorchis militaris purpurea odorata. On Lance-Moor near Newby, and on Thrimby-Common, Westmoreland.
Serratula foliis ad summitatem usque indivisis. Found first by Reginald Harrison, a Quaker, in the Barony of Kendal, Westmoreland.
Thlaspi minus Clusii. On most Limestone pastures in both Counties.
Tragopogon Purpureum. In the fields about Carlisle and Rose-castle, Cumberland.
Virga aurea latifolia serrata. C. B. It grows as plentifully in our fields at Salkeld as the Vulgaris; which it as common as any Plant we have.
OTTADINI.
NEXT after the Brigantes, Ptolemy places those who (according to the various readings of several Copies) are call'da Ottalini, Ottadeni, and Ottadini: instead of all which I would willingly, with a very easie alteration, read Ottatini; that so the word might signifie beyond or upon the river Tyne. Thus the name of the inhabitants would exactly agree with the situation of their Country. For these men were seated beyond the Tyne: and our modern Britains call that Country in Wales which lyes beyond the river Conway, Uch-Conway; that beyond the Mountains, Uch-Mynyth; beyond the Wood, Uch-Coed; beyond the River Gyrway, Uch-Gyrway. Nor would it be at all improper, if, by the same rule, they nam'd this Country beyond the Tyne, Uch-Tin; out of which, by a little disjointing and mellowing of the word, the Romans may seem to have form'd their Ottadini. Yet since (as Xiphiline reports out of Dio Nicaeus) all the Britains that dwelt near the formention'd Wall were call'd [...], or Maeatae [a], Maeatae. 'tis reasonable to believe that our Ottadini (living on the Wall) were some of those Maeatae, who, in that remarkable Revolt of the Britains, wherein the Caledonians were brought into the Confederacy, took up Arms: when the Emperour Severus gave orders to his Souldiers to give no Quarter to the Britains, in Homer's words;
But the storm of this rebellion was calm'd by the death of Severus, who dy'd at York, in the midst of his preparations for war. A good while after, this Country seems to have been part of Valentia: Valenti [...] for so Theodosius nam'd it, in honour of the Emperour Valentinian. after he had vanquish'd the Barbarians, and recover'd this lost Province. But, in the Saxon wars, these ancient names grew out of date; and all those Countries which lye North of the Frith of Humber took the Saxon Name of Norꝧan-Humbra-ric, i.e. the Kingdom of the North-Humbrians. And yet even this name is now lost in the other Counties; being only retain'd in this of Northumberland. Which we are now to visit.
NORTH-HƲMBER-LAND.
NNorthumberland, call'd by the Saxons Norꝧan-Humber-lond, lyes enclos'd in a sort of a Triangle, but not Equilateral. On the South, towards the County of Durham, 'tis bounded with the river Derwent running into Tine; and with Tine it self. The East-side is washt with the German Ocean. The West (reaching fromb Southwest to North-East) fronts Scotland; and is first bounded with a ridge of Mountains, and afterwards with the river Tweed. Here were the Limits of both Kingdoms: over which (in this County) two Governours were appointed; whereof the one was stil'd Lord Warden of the Middle Marches, [...]dens of [...] Mar [...] [...]ke [...]ers. and the other of thec Western. The Country it self is mostly rough and barren, and seems to have harden'd the very carcasses of its Inhabitants: whom the neighbouring Scots have render'd yet more hardy, sometimes inuring them to war, and sometimes amicably communicating their customs and way of living; whence they are become a most warlike people and excellent horse-men. And, whereas they generally have devoted themselves to war, there is not a man of fashion among them but has his little Castle and Fort; and so the Country came to be divided into a great many Baronies, [...]ny Ba [...]ies in [...]thum [...]and. the Lords whereof were anciently (before the days of Edward the first) usually stil'd Barons; tho' some of them men of very low Fortunes [b]. But this was wisely done of our Ancestors, to cherish and support Martial Prowess, in the borders of the Kingdom, with (at least) Honour and Title. However, this Character they lost, when (under Edward the first) the name of Barons began to be appropriated to such as were summoned by the King to the High Court of Parliament. On the Sea-Coasts, and along the river Tine, the ground (with any tolerable husbandry) is very fruitful: but elsewhere, much more barren and unviewly. In many places the stones Lithancraces, which we call Sea-coals, Sea-coal [...] are digg'd very plentifully, to the great benefit of the Inhabitants.
The nearer part, which points to the South-west, and is call'd Hexamshire, Hexamshire. had for a long time the Archbishop of York for its Lord; and challeng'd (how justly I know not) the Rights of a County Palatine: but when lately it became part of the Crown-Lands (by an exchange made with Archbishop Robert) it was, by Act of Parliament, joyn'd to the County of Northumberland, being subjected to the samed Judicature, and having their Writs directed to the Sheriff thereof.
South Tine South Tine (so call'd, if we believe the Britains, from its being narrowly pent up within its banks; for so much Tin signifies, say some, in the Brittish Languague) rising in Cumberland near Alstenmoor, where there is an ancient Copper-Mine, runs by Lambley (formerly a Nunnery built by the Lucies, but now much worn away by the floods) and Fetherston-haugh, the seat of the ancient and well-descended Family of the Fetherstons e; and, being come to Bellister-Castle, turns Eastward, keeping a direct course along the Wall, which is no where three miles distant from it.
For the Wall, having left Cumberland, Picts Wal [...]. and cross'd [Page 848] the little river of Irthing, carry'd an Arch over the rapid brook of Poltross; Poltross. where we saw large Mounts cast up within the wall, as design'd for watching the Country. Near this place stands Thirlwal-castle, Thirlwall. (no large structure) which gave a seat and sirname to that ancient and honourable family, which had formerly the name of Wade. Here the Scots forc'd a passage, betwixt Irthing and Tine, into the Province [of Britain.] And the place was wisely enough chosen, as having no intercourse of rivers to obstruct their easie inroads into the very bowels of England. But the Reader will the better understand this matter and the name of the place, from John Fordon the Scotch Historian,Scoto-Chronic. J. Fordon whose words, since his book is not very common, it may not be amiss to repeat. The Scots (says he) having conquer'd the Country on both sides of the Wall, began to settle themselves in it; and summoning in the Boors (with their mattocks, pickaxes, rakes, forks, and shovels) caus'd wide holes and gaps to be made in it, through which they might readily pass and repass. From these gaps, this indented part got its present name: for in the English tongue the place is now call'd Thirlwall, which render'd in Latin, is the same as Murus perforatus. From hence southward we had a view of Blenkensop; which gives name and dwelling to an eminent family, was anciently part of the Barony of Nicholas of Bolteby, and is situated in a Country pleasant enough.
Caervorran.Beyond Thirlwall the wall opens a passage for the mad river of Tippall; where, on the descent of a hill, a little within the wall, may be seen the draught of a square Roman Fort, each side whereof is 140 paces in length: the very foundations of the houses, and tracks of the streets, being yet fairly discernable. The Moss-Troopers report, that there lay a high Street-way, paved with Flint and [other] Stone, over the tops of the mountains, from hence to Maiden-Castle on Stanemoor. 'Tis certain it went directly to Kirkbythor, already mention'd. An old woman, who dwelt in a neighbouring cottage, shew'd us a little old consecrated Altar, thus inscrib'd to Vitirineus, a tutelar god (as it should seem) of these parts.
VITI
RINE —
—LIMEO
ROV
This place is now call'd Caer-vorran: how 'twas anciently nam'd I am not able to determine, since the word hath no affinity with any of the [Roman] Stations that are mention'd [per lineam valli] along the Wall, and none of the Inscriptions afford us any discoveries [c]. Whatever it was, the wall near it was built higher and firmer than elsewhere; for within two furlongs of it, on a pretty high hill, it exceeds 15 foot in heighth, and nine in breadth, on both sidesQuadrato lapide. Ashler; tho' Bede says, 'twas only 12 foot high [d].
From hence the Wall bends about by Iverton, Forsten, and Chester in the Wall, near Busy-gapp, noted for Robberies; where we heard there were forts, but durst not go and view them for fear of the Moss-Troopers. This Chester, we were told, was very large, insomuch as I guess it to be that station of the second [Cohort] of the Dalmatians which the Book of Notices calls Magna; where may be read the following Inscription.
DESIDIENIAE
....LIANI PRAE
ET SV A. S.
POSVIT VOT
...AO SOLVIT LIBE
NS. TVSCO ET BAS
SO COSS.
This imperfect Altar was also brought from thence; which we read at the little Hamlet of Melkrigg 1.
AE SVB CALP
VR NIO AG—
ICOLA LEG. AVG PR. PR. A LICINIVS
—LEMENS PRAEF
— III. A. IOR —
—f
Which, if I could, I would gladly (and the characters seem to allow it) read thus: Deae Suriae, Dea S [...] some w [...] have her [...] be June, others Ve [...] sub Calphurnio Agricola Legato Augusti Propraetore, Licinius Clemens Praefectus. Now Calphurnius Agricola was sent against the Britains by [the Emperour] M. Antoninus Philosophus, Cap [...]to [...] upon the breaking out of the British wars, about the year of our Lord 170. at which time some Cohort, under his command, erected this altar to the Goddess Suria, who was drawn by Lions, with a Turret on her head and a Taber in her hand, (as is shewn at large by Lucian, in his Treatise de Deâ Syriâ) and whom Nero, Sueton. [...] Nero, [...] as sorrily as he treated all Religion, very zealously worship'd for some time, and afterwards slighted her to that degree, as to piss upon her.
From hence we had a view ofg Willimotes-wicke, the seat of the worshipful family of the Ridleys, and (close by) of the river Alon, Alon. emptying it self into Tine with a pompous rattle, both the Alons being now met in one chanel. On East-Alon stands a village, which is now call'd2 Old-Town. But to return to the Wall. The next station on the Wall, beyond Busy-gap, is now call'd Seaven-shale; Seavensh [...] which name if you will allow me to derive from Saviniana, or rather Sabiniana ala, I would roundly affirm this place to be that Hunnum where the Notitia Provinciarum tells us the Sabinian Wing were upon duty. Then, beyond Carraw and Walton stands Walwick, which some have fancied to be the Gallana Gallana. of Antoninus: in all which places there are evident remains of old fortifications.
Here North-Tine North-T [...] crosses the Wall. It rises in the mountains on the borders of England and Scotland; and first, running Eastward, waters Tindale, Tindale. (which has thence its name) and afterwards embraces the river Read, which falling from the steep hill of Read-squire, (where is frequently the True-place, True-plac [...] that is, the place of conference, where the Lords Wardens of the Eastern Marches of both Kingdoms usually determine the disputes of the borderers) gives its name to a valley too thinly inhabited by reason of the robberies.Rheadida [...]
Both these Dales breed most notable Bog-Trotters; and both have such boggy-top'd mountains as are not to be cross'd by [ordinary] horsemen. In these, one would wonder to see so many great heaps of stones (Lawes Lawes they call them) which the neighbourhood believe to have been thrown together in remembrance of some persons there slain [f]. There are also, in both of 'em, many ruins of old sorts. In Tindale are Whitchester, Delaley, Tarset, which formerly belong'd to the Commins. In Rheades-dale are Rochester, Greenchester, Rutchester, and some others, whose ancient [Page 849-850] names old time has now unkindly swallow'd. But since at Rochester, which is seated near the head of Rhead, on the rising of a rock that overlooks the Country below, (whence it may seem to have had this new name) an ancient Altar was found, among the rubbish of an old Castle, with this Inscription: ‘ [...]c. Dupla [...]s Numeri [...]xplorato [...]m Breme [...]i Aram [...]stituerunt [...]umini e [...]s, Capione [...]har [...]cimo [...]ibuno vo [...]n solve [...]nt Lib [...]n [...]s mereto.D. R. S.
DVPL. N. EXPLOR.
BREMEN. ARAM.
INSTITVERVNT
N̄ EIVS C CAEP
CHARITINO TRIB V S L M’
May we not hence guess, that here was that Bremenium, [...]remenium so industriously and so long sought after, which Ptolemy mentions in these parts, and from which Antoninus begins his first journey in Britain, as from its [outmost] limit. [g] For the bounds of the Empire were seas, great rivers, mountains, desart and unpassable countries, (such as this part affords) ditches, walls, empailures, and especially castles built in the most suspected places, whereof there are here great plenty of remains. Indeed, since the Barbarians, having thrown down Antoninus Pius's Wall in Scotland, widely spoil'd this Country, and Hadrian's Wall lay unheeded till Severus's time, we may believe the limits of the Roman Empire were in this place: and hence the old Itinerary, that goes under the name of Antoninus, begins here, as à Limite [i. at the furthest bounds of the Empire.] But the addition of i. à vallo is a gloss of the transcriber's, since Bremenium lies fourteen miles northward from the Wall; unless we take it to be one of those Field-stations already mention'd to have been built beyond the Wall in the Enemy's Country.
To the south of old Bremenium, within five miles,Battel of Otterburn. 1388. lies Otterburn, where a stout engagement happen'd betwixt the Scots and English, Victory three or four times changing sides, and at last fixing with the Scots: for Henry Percy, (for his youthful forwardness by-nam'd Whot-spur) who commanded the English, was himself taken prisoner, and lost fifteen hundred of his men; and William Douglas the Scotch General fell with the greatest part of his army: so that never was there a greater instance of the martial prowess of both Nations [h].
A little lower the river Rhead washes (or rather has almost wash'd away) another Town of venerable antiquity, now call'd Risingham; Risingham. which, in the old-English and high-Dutch languages, signifies as much as Giants-Town, as Risingberg in Germany is Giants-Hill [i]. There are here many remains of antiquity. The Inhabitants report, that the placc was long defended by the god Magon, against a certain Soldane or Pagan Prince. Nor is the story wholly groundless; for that such a god was here worship'd, appears from these two Altars lately taken out of the River, and thus inscrib'd: ‘ [...] Mogon [...] Cadeno [...], & [...]ini Do [...]ini nostri [...]ugusti M. [...] Secundi [...] Benefi [...]a [...]ius Con [...] Habi [...]ici Pri [...] tam [...]se & [...] posuit.DEO
MOGONTI CAD.
ET. N. DN AVG.
M. G. SECVNDINVS
BF. COS. HABITA
NCI PRIMAS TA —
PRO SE ET SVIS POSVIT’ ‘DEO
MOVNO CAD.
INVENTVS DO
V. S.’
From the former of these some guess may be made that the place was called Habitancum; and that he who erected it was Pensioner to a Consul, and Mayor of the Town. (For that the chief Magistrates of Cities, [...]rimas. Towns and Forts were call'd Primates, the Codex Theodosii will abundantly teach us.) Whether this god were the tutelar Deity of the Gadeni, whom Ptolemy makes next neighbours to the Ottadini, I am not yet able to determine; let others enquire. Here were also found the following Inscriptions, for which, among others, we are indebted to the famous Sir Rob. Cotton of Conington, Knight, who very lately saw and copy'd them.
BLESCIVS
DIOVICVS
FILIAE
SVAE
VIX SIT
AN. I. ET
DIES XXI.
CVI PRAEEST. M
PEREGRINIVS
SVPER TRIB.
FECIT CVRANTE
IVL. PAVLO TRIB
TIANAE SA
CRVM AEL.
TIMOTHEA — P.
V. S. LL. M.
LI IVL.
PAVLLVS
T R I B.
V. S.
NI. PII AVG. M
MESSORIVS
DILIGENS TRIBVNVS
SACRVM
Vetustate conlabsum.
As also, what exceeds all the rest in finery of the work, a long Table thus curiously engraven; and by theh fourth Cohort of the Gallic Troops, dedicated to the Sacred Majesty of the Emperours.
But, to return. A little lower Rhead, with several other brooks that have joyn'd it, runs into Tine; and so far reaches Rhedesdale: which (as Doomsday-Book informs us) the Umfranvils held in Fee and [Knights] Service of the King, for guarding the Dale from Robbers.
All over the Wasts Wasts. (as they call them) as well as in Gillesland, you see as it were the ancient Nomades; Nomades. a Martial sort of people, that from April to August, lye in little Hurts (which they call Sheals heals. and Shealings) here and there dispers'd among their Flocks. From hence North-Tine passes by Chipches, Chipc [...] a little Fort formerly belonging to the Umfranvils, then to the4 Herons [k], (and not far from the small Castle of Swinborn, Swinb [...] which gave name to a Family of note, and was sometime part of the Barony of William Heron, afterwards the seat of the Woderingtons) and so comes to the Wall, which is cross'd at Collerford, Coller [...] by a Bridge of Arches; where are still to be seen the ruins of the large Fort of Wallwick. Ci [...]urn [...] If Cilurnum (where the second wing of the Astures lay in garison) was not here, it was in the neighbourhood [Page 853-854] at Scilcester in the Wall; [...]ester. [...]reden. where, after Sigga a Nobleman had treacherously slain Elfwald King of Northumberland, the Religious built a Church, and dedicated it to Cuthbert and Oswald; Oswald. which last has so far out-done the other, that, the old name being quite lost, the place is now call'd S. Oswald's. This Oswald, King of Northumberland, being ready to give Battel to [l] Cedwall the Britain (so Bede calls him whom the British Writers name Caswallon) King, [...]dwalla, [...] Caswal [...] as it should seem, of Cumberland, erected a Cross; and humbly on his knees begg'd of Christ that he would afford his heavenly assistance to those that now call'd on his name, and presently with a loud voice thus address'd himself to the Army: [...]de l. 3. c 2. [...]out the [...]r 634. [...]ristiani [...] first pro [...]'d in [...]rthum [...]land. Let us all on our knees beseech the Almighty, Living, and True God, mercifully to defend us from our proud and cruel Enemy. We do not find (says Bede) that any Banner of the Christian Faith, any Church, any Altar, was ever erected in this Country, before this new General, following the dictates of a devout Faith, and being to engage with a most inhumane Enemy, set up this Standard of the Holy Cross. For after Oswald had in this Battel experienc'd that effectual assistance of Christ which he had pray'd for, he immediately turn'd Christian; and sent for Aidan a Scotchman to instruct his people in the Christian Religion. The place where the Victory was obtain'd was afterwards call'd Heafenfeld, [...]f [...]nfeld, [...] Hale [...]. or Heaven field; which now (in the same sense, as some will have it) is nam'd Haledon. Whereon Oswalds Life gives us the following piece of Meter:
And another for his Commendation (well enough for the barbarous Age he liv'd in) writes thus:
Below S. Oswald's both Tines meet; after South-Tine (which goes along with the Wall, at about two miles distance from it) has pass'd by Langley-Castle, (where formerly, [...] Ne [...]. in the Reign of King John, Adam de Tindale had his Barony, which afterwards descended upon Nicholas de Bolteby, and was lately in the possession of the Percies) and has slidden under a tottering and crazy wooden Bridge at Aidon. And now the whole Tine, being well grown, and still encreasing, presses foward in one Chanel for the Ocean, running by Hexam, Hexam. which Bede calls Haugustald, and the Saxons Hextoldesham. That this was the Axelodunum Axel [...]dunum. of the Romans, where the first Cohort of the Spaniards were in garison, the name implies; and so does its situation, on the rising of a hill, for the Britains call'd [such] a Mount Dunum. Dunum. But take an account of this place from Richard its Prior, who liv'd above five hundred years ago [n]. Not far from the Southern bank of the river Tine stands a Town, of a small extent indeed at present, and but thinly inhabited, but (as the remaining marks of its ancient state will testifie) heretofore very large and magnificent. This place is call'd Hextoldesham, from the little rivulet of Hextold, which runs by, and sometimes suddenly overflows it. In the year 675. Etheldreda wife to King Egfrid assign'd it for an Episcopal See to S. Wilfrid; who built here a Church, which, for a curious and most beautiful Fabrick, surpass'd all the Monasteries in England. See also what Malmesbury has written of it: This was Crown-Land, till Bishop Wilfrid chang'd others for it with Queen Etheldreda. 'Twas wonderful to see what towering Buildings were there erected; how admirably contriv'd with winding stairs, by Masons, brought (in prospect of his great Liberality) from Rome. Insomuch that they seem'd to vye with the Roman pomp; and long out-struggled even time it self. At which time King Egfrid made this little City a Bishop's Seat. But that Honour, after thei eighth Bishop, was wholly lost; the Danish wars prevailing. Afterwards it was only reckon'd a Manour of the Archbishop's of York; till they parted with their right in an exchange made with Henry the eighth. 'Tis also famous for the bloody Battel wherein John Nevil Lord Montacute very bravely engag'd, and as fortunately vanquish'd, the Generals of the House of Lancaster; and, for so doing, was created Earl of Northumberland by Edward the fourth. At present, its only glory is the old Monastery, part whereof is turn'd into the fair house ofk Sir J. Foster Knight. The West-end of the Church is demolish'd. The rest stands still entire, and is a very stately Structure: in the Quire whereof may be seen an old Tomb of a Person of Honour (of the Martial Family of the Umfranvils, Men buried cross legg'd as his Coat of Arms witnesses) lying with his Legs across. By the way, in that posture it was then the custom to bury such only as had taken the Cross upon them; being, under that Banner, engag'd in the Holy War, for the recovery of the Holy-Land out of the Hands of the Mahometans. Near the East-end of the Church, on a rising brow, stand two strong Bulwarks of hew'n-stone; which, I was told, belong to the Archbishop of York.
From hence Eastward we pass'd on to Dilston, Dilston. the Seat of the Ratcliffs, call'd in old Books Devilston, from a small brook which here empties it self into Tine, and which Bede names Devil's burn: where (as he writes) Oswald, arm'd with Christian Faith, in a fair field, slew Cedwall the Britain,Bede, l 3. c. 1 that wretched Tyrant, who before had slain two Kings of Northumberland, and miserably wasted their Country [o]. On the other bank of Tine stands Curia Ottadinorum mention'd by Ptolemy, Ninius calls it Curia. which (by the distances) should seem to be Antonine'sl Corstopitum: 'tis now call'd Corbridge Corbridge. (from the Bridge here built,) by Hoveden, Corobrige; and by [Henry of] Huntingdon, Cure. At this day it has nothing remarkable but a Church, and a little Tower-house built and inhabited by the Vicars of the place. Yet there are many ruins of ancient buildings,Treasure sought in vain. Hoveden. Tacitus. amongst which King John search'd for some old hidden Treasure: but Fortune favour'd him no more in this vain quest than she did Nero, in his Enquiries after the conceal'd riches of Dido at Carthage. For he found nothing but stones mark'd with Brass, Iron, Lead [p]. Whoever views the neighbouring heap of rubbish, which is now call'd Colecester, Colecester. will readily conclude it to have been a Roman Fort. Upon the same bank we saw the fair Castle [Page] of Biwell; Biwell. which in the reign of King John, was the Barony of Hugh Balliol, for which he stood oblig'd to pay to the Ward of Newcastle upon Tine thirty Knights [Services].
Below this Castle there is a most comely WeareA Weare. for catching of Salmons; and, in the middle of the river, stand two firm Pillars of stone, which formerly supported a Bridge. Hence Tine runs under Prudhow-Castle (in old writings Prodhow Prudhow.) which is pleasantly seated on the ridge of a hill. This, till I am better inform'd, I shall guess to be Protolitia; Protolitia. which is also written Procolitia, and was the station of the first Cohort of the Batavi. 'Tis famous for gallantly maintaining it self (in the days of Henry the second) against the siege of William King of Scots; who (as Nubrigensis expresses it) toil'd himself and his Army to no purpose. Afterwards it belong'd to thel Umfranvils, Umfranvils. an eminent Family; out of which Sir Gilbert (a Knight in the reign of Edward the first) was, in right of his wife, made Earl of Angus in Scotland. The true heiress of the blood (as our Lawyers express it) was at length married into the family of the Talboys; and, after that, this Castle was (by the King's bounty) conferr'd upon the Duke of Bedford.
But, to return to the Wall. Beyond S. Oswald's, the Foundations of the two Forts, which they call Castle-steeds, are to be seen in the Wall; and then a place call'd Portgate, Portgate. where (as the word in both Languages fairly evinces) there was formerly a Gate [or Sally-port] through it. Beneath this, and more within the Wall, stands Halton-hall, the present seat of the ancient and valourous family of them Carnabies; and (hard by) Aidon-Castle, which was part of the Barony of the fore-mention'd Hugh Balliol. Now, since a great many places on the Wall bear the name of Aidon, Aidon. and the same word (in the British tongue) signifies a Military Wing [Ala militaris] or Troop of Horse, many whereof were (as the Liber Notitiarum teaches us) placed along the Wall; let the Reader consider, whether these places have not thence had their names; as other Towns had that of Leon, where Legions [or whole Regiments] were quarter'd. However, near this place was digg'd up a piece of an old stone, wherein was drawn the pourtraiture of a Man lying on his bed, leaning upon his left hand, and touching his right knee with his right; together with the following Inscriptions: ‘NORICI. AN. XXX.
— ESSOIRVS MAGNVS
FRATER EIVS
DVPL. ALAE
SABINIANAE.’ ‘M. MARI
VS VELLI
A LONG
VS. AQVI
S HANC
POSVIT
V. S. L. M.’
Beyond the Wall rises the river Pont; and running down by Fenwick-hall, the seat of the eminent and valiant family of the Fenwicks, Fenwick. for some miles fronts the Wall, and had its banks guarded by the first Cohort of the Cornavii at Pons Aelii, Pons Aelii. built by [the Emperour] Aelius Hadrianus, and now called Pont-Eland. Pont-eland. Here Henry the third concluded a peace with the King of Scots, in the year 1244. and near it the first Cohort of the Tungri lay at Borwick, Borwick. which the Notitia Provinciarum calls Borcovicus. Borcovicus. From Port-gate the Wall runs to Waltown, which (from the agreeableness of the name, and its twelve miles distance from the eastern sea) I take to be the same Royal Borough which Bede callsn Ad murum; Ad m [...] where Segebert, King of the East-Saxons was baptiz'd into the Christian Church byo Paulinus. Near this is a Fort call'd Old Winchester, O [...]d [...] chester. which I readily believe to be Vindolana; Vin [...]o [...] where, as the Liber Notitiarum says, the fourth Cohort of the Galli kept a Frontier-garrison. Thence we went to Routchester, where we met with evident remains of a square Camp joyning close to the Wall. Near this is Headon, which was part of the Barony ofp Hugh de Bolebec; who, by the mother,B [...]y [...] was descended from the noble Barons of Mont-Fichet, and had no other issue than daughters, marry'd to Ralph Lord Greistock, J. Lovell, Huntercomb, and Corbet.
And now, near the meeting of the Wall and Tine, N [...]wca [...] up [...]n [...] stands Newcastle, the glory of all the Towns in this Country. 'Tis enobled by a Haven on the Tine, which is of that depth as to carry vessels of very good burthen, and of that security, that they are in no hazard of either storms or shallows [g]. Its situation is climbing and very uneven, on the northern bank of the river, which is cross'd by a very fair bridge. As you enter the town from hence, you have, on the left hand the Castle overtopping you, and thereafter a very steep brow of a hill. On the right you have the Market-place, and the best built part of the Town; from which to the upper and far larger part, the ascent is a little troublesome. 'Tis beautified with four Churches [r]: and defended by exceeding strong walls, wherein are seven gates, and a great many turrets. What it was anciently is not yet discover'd. I am very inclinable to think 'twas Gabrosentum; since Gateshead (which is, as it were, its suburbs) is a word of the same signification with that British name, deriv'd from Goats, as has been already mention'd. Besides, the Notitia Provinciarum places Gabrosentum Gabr [...] tum. (and in it the second Cohort of the Thracians) [ad lineam Valli] within the very range of the Wall. And 'tis most certain, that the Rampier and [afterwards] the Wall pass'd through this Town; and at Pandon-gate there still remains, as 'tis thought, one of the little Turrets of that very Wall. 'Tis indeed different from the rest both in fashion and masonry, and seems to carry a very great age. The name of Monk-chester is also an argument of its being a garrison'd Fort; for so, from the Monks, it was call'd about the time of the Conquest. Soon after, it got the modern name of New-castle, from that new castle which was here built by Robert son of William the Conquerour, and within a while was mightily enlarg'd by a good trade on the coasts of Germany, and by the sale of its sea-coal (whereof this Country has great plenty) into other parts of England. In the reign of Edward the first, a very rich Burger being carry'd off a prisoner by the Scots, out of the middle of the town, first paid a round ransom for himself, and afterwards began the first fortifications of the place. The rest of the townsmen, mov'd by his example, finish'd the work, and wholly encompass'd themselves with good stout walls: since which time this place has so securely manag'd her trade, in spight of all the attempts of her enemies and the many neighbouring thieves, that she is now in a most flourishing state of wealth and commerce [s]: upon which accounts Henry the sixth made it a County incorporate of it self. It lies in 21 degrees and 30 minutes longitude, and in 54 and 57 of northern latitude. We have already treated of the suburbs of Gateshead, which is joyn'd [to Newcastle] by the bridge, and belongs to the Bishop [Page] of Durham. This town, for its situation and plenty of sea-coal [t] (so useful in it self, and to which so great a part of England and the Low-Countries are indebted for their good fires) is thus commended by Jonston in his [Poems on the] Cities of Britain.
NOVUM CASTRUM
NEW-CASTLE
Scarce three miles hence (for I take no notice of Gosseford, which was the Barony of Richard Sur-Teis, or Upon the Tees, [...]ons Sur- [...]. a person of great repute under Henry the fi [...]sty stands a little village call'd Walls-end. [...]lls-end. The very signification of the word proves this to have been the station of theq second Cohort of the Thracians, which in the Liber Notitiarum is call'd Vindobal [...], [...]dobala, and by Antoninus, Vindomora: [...]domora. for the latter seems, in the provincial language of the Britains, to have signified the Walls-end, and the former the Rampiers-end; since they anciently nam'd a Wall Mur, and a Ditch or Rampier Gual 6.
Nor is it likely, that either the Ditch or the Wall went any further, since they are not to be traced beyond this place, and Tine (being now near the sea) carries so deep a chanel, as may serve instead of the strongest Fort. Yet some will needs maintain, that the Ditch, tho' not the Wall, reach'd as far as Tinmouth; [...]mouth. which, they assert, was call'd Pen ball-crag, that is, the Head of the Rampier in the Rock. This opinion I shall not gainsay; however, I dare confidently affirm, that this place was, in the time of the Romans, call'd Tunnocellum, [...]nocel [...] which signifies as much as the Promontory of Tunna or Tina, where the first Cohort Aelia Classica (first rais'd, as the name probably imports, by Aelius Hadrianus) was in pay for Sea-service: for the Romans had their Naves Lusoriae [...]ves Lu [...]e. [or light Frigats] in their border-rivers, both for the suppressing of the excursions of the neighbouring enemy, and the making incursions upon him: as may be seen in the Codex Theodosii, under the title De Lusoriis Danubii. Under the Saxon Heptarchy it was called Tunnacester; not, as Bede affirms, fromr Abbot Tunna, but from the river. Here was also aſ little Monastery, which was frequently plunder'd by the Danes; 'tis now nam'd Tinmouth-castle, and glories in a stately and strong Castle, which, says an ancient Author, is inaccessibly seated on a very high rock towards the Ocean on the east and north, and elsewhere so well mounted, that a slender garison makes it good. For this reason Robert Mowbray; Earl of Northumberland, chose it for his chief hold, when he rebell'd against King William Rufin: but, as is usual, matters succeeded not well with this Rebel, who being here brought into distress by his besiegers, retir'd to the adjoyning Monastery, which had the esteem of an holy [and inviolable] sanctuary. Nev [...]rtheless, he was thence carry'd off, and afterwards, in along and noisom durance, justly suffer'd for his treason.
I must now coast it along the shore. Behind the Promontory whereon Tunnocellum [or Tinmouth] is seated, (near Seton, Seton. part of the Barony De la-vall in the reign of Henry the third) stands Seghill, Seghill. call'd Segedunum, Segedunum the station of thet third Cohort of the Lergi, on the Wall or Rampier; and indeed Segedunum in the British tongue signifies the same thing as Seghill in the English. A few miles from hence the shore is out by the river Blithe, which (having pass'd by Belsey, the ancient inheritance of the Middletons, and Ogle-Castle, belonging to the Barons of Ogle Barons of Ogle.) does here, together with the river Pont, empty it self into the sea. These [Ogles] were honour'd with the title of Barons from the very beginning of Edward the fou [...]th's reign, having enrich'd themselves by marrying the heirs of Berthram de Bothal, Alan Heton, and Alexander Kirkby. The male issue of these Barons was lately extinct in Cuthbert, the seventh Baron, who had two daughters, Joan, marry'd to Edward Talbot a younger son of George Earl of Shrewsbury, and Catherine, marry'd to Sir Charles Cavendish, Knight.
A little higher the river Wents-beck Wentsbeck. falls into the sea. It runs by Mitford, Barony of Mitford. which was fir'd by King John and his Rutars, when they miserably wasted this Country [u]. That age call'd those foreign Auxiliaries and Free booters Rutarii, Rutarii or Ruptarii. who were brought out of the Low-countries and other places to King John's assistance, by Falques Or, de Breant. de Brent and Walter Buc. Brent being au crack-brain'd fellow, was afterwards banish'd the Kingdom; but Buc, a person of more sobriety, having done the King good service, had conferr'd on him, by his Royal Bounty, Lands in Yorkshire and Northamptonshire, where his Posterity flourish'd down to John Buck, who was attainted under Henry the seventh. Great grandson to this [John] is that person of excellent learning Sir George Buc Knight, Master of the Revels, who (for I love to own my Benefactors) has remark'd many things in our Histories, and courteously communicated his observations. This was formerly the Barony of William Berthram, whose line soon fail'd inw Roger his grandson, the three co-heiresses being marry'd to Norman Darcy, T. Penbury, and William de Elmeley.
After this, Wentsbeck runs through the famous little Town of Morpeth; Morpeth. for [the body of] the Town is seated on the northern bank of the river, and the Church on the southern. Near to which stands also, on a shady hill, the Castle; which, together with the Town, came from Roger de Merlac or Merley (whose Barony it was) to the Lords of Greystock, and from them to the Barons Dacre of Gillesland. I meet with [Page] nothing anciently recorded of this place; save only that in the year of our Lord 1215. the Towns-men themselves burnt it,Hist. Malros. in pure spight to King John [uu]. From hence Wentsbeck runs by Bothal Castle, anciently the Barony of Richard Berthram; from whose Posterity it descended upon the Barons of Ogle. Upon the bank of this river I havex long fancied (whether upon good grounds or pure conjecture I know not) was the seat of Glanoventa; Glanoventa where the Romans plac'd a Garison of the first Cohort of the Morini, for the defence of the Marshes. This the very situation of the place seems to argue; and the name of the river, with its signification, may further evidence. For 'tis [ad Lineam Valli] upon the range of the Wall or Rampire, as the Liber Notitiarum places that Fort. And the river is call'd Wents-beck. Now Glanoventa in the British tongue signifies the shore or bank of Went: whence also Glanon, a Maritime Town in France (mention'd by Mela) may probably have had its name.
Not far hence (to omit other less considerable Turrets) stands, on the shore, the old Castle of Withrington Withrington. or Woderington, in the Saxon Language Widringtun; which gave name to the eminent and knightly family of the Withringtons, who have frequently signaliz'd their valour in the Scotish wars. Near this the river Coqued or Coquet Coquet. falls into the Sea; which, rising among the Rocks of Cheviot-hills, near its Head has Billesdun, from whence are sprung the worshipful family of the Selbies; & (lower, to the South) Harbottle, Harbottle. in the Saxon Herbottle, i.e. the Armie's station, whence the Family of they Harbottles, of good note in the last Age. Here was formerly a Castle, which was demolish'd by the Scots in the year 1314. Hard by stands Halyston H [...]lyston. or Holy-stone; where, in the primitive English Church, Paulinus is said to have baptized many thousands. Upon the very mouth of Coquet the shore is guarded by the fair Castle of Warkworth, Warkworth. belonging to the Percies; wherein is a Chapel admirably cut out of a Rock, and fully finished without Beams or Rafters. This King Edward the third gave to Henry Percy, Parl. Rolls, 5 Edw. 3. together with the Manour of Rochbury. It was formerly the Barony of Roger Fitz-Richard, given him by Henry the second King of England; who also bestow'd Clavering in Essex upon his son. Whereupon, at the command of King Edward the first, they took the sirname of Clavering; Clavering. leaving the old fashion of framing sirnames out of the Christian name of their Father: for so anciently, according to the several names of their Fathers, men were call'd Robert The Son. Fitz-Roger, Roger Fitz-John, &c. Part of this Inheritance fell, by Fine and Covenant, to the Nevils, afterwards Earl of Westmoreland: and another share of it to a daughter call'd Eve, married to Th. Ufford; from whose Posterity it afterwards descended hereditarily upon the Fienes Barons of Dacre. But from the younger sons branch'd out the Barons of Evers, the Evers of Axholme, the Claverings of Calaly in this County, and others. In the Neighbourhood, is Morwic, Morwick. which may also boast of its Lords, whose Male-issue was extinct about the year 1258. The Inheritance was convey'd by daughters to the Lumleys, Seymours, Bulmers and Roscells.
Then the shore receives the river Alaunus: Alaunus. which, having not yet lost the name whereby 'twas known to Ptolemy, is still briefly call'd Alne. Alne. On its banks are Twifford or Double-Ford (where a Synod was held under King Egfrid [w]) andz Eslington, the seat of the Collingwoods, men of renown in the wars: as also Alan-wick Alnewick. (call'd by the Saxons Ealn-ƿic, and now usually Anwick) a Town famous for the victory obtain'd by the English; wherein our brave Ancestors took William King of Scots, 1174 and presented him a Prisoner to Henry the second. 'Tis defended with a goodly Castle, 1097 which Malcolm the third King of Scotland had so straitned by siege, that it was upon the very point of surrender; when presently he was slain by a Souldier, who stabb'd him with a Spear, on the point whereof he pretended to deliver him the Keys of the Castle. His son Edward, rashly charging upon the Enemy, to revenge his father's death, was also mortally wounded, and dy'd soon after. This was formerly a Barony of the Vescies: for Henry the second gave it to Eustachius Fitz-John, Testa Navi [...]i. father of William Vescie, in Tenure of twelve Knights Services. John Vescie returning from the Holy War, first brought Carmelites Carme [...] into England, and built a Covent for them here at Holme, a solitary place, and not unlike to Mount Carmel in Syria [x]. William, the last of the Vescies, Hist. D [...] nesm. made Anthony Bec Bishop of Durham Trustee of this Castle and the Demesn-lands belonging to it, for the use of his natural son, the only Child he left behind him. But the Bishop, basely betraying his trust, alienated the Inheritance; felling it for ready money to William Percie, since whose time it has always been in the possession of the Percies.
From hence the shore, after a great many Indentures, passes by [y] Dunstaburge, Dunstaburg. a Castle belonging to the Dutchy of Lancaster, which some havea mistaken for Bebban, which stands further North, and, instead of Bebbanburg, is now call'd Bamborrow. Bambor [...] Our Country-man Bede, speaking of this Castle's being besieg'd and burn'd by Penda the Mercian, says it had this name from Queen [z] Bebba: Bebba. but Florilegus [or Matthew of Westminster] tells us 'twas built by Ida the first King of Northumberland, who first fenc'd it with a wooden Empailure, and afterwards with a Wall. Take Roger Hoveden's description of it: Bebba, says he, is a very strong City; not exceeding large, as containing about two or three acres of ground. It has one hollow entrance into it, which is admirably rais'd by steps. On the top of a hill stands a fair Church; and on the Western point is a Well, curiously adorn'd, and of sweet and clean water. At present it is rather reckon'd a Castle than a City; tho' of that extent that it rivals some Cities. Nor was it look'd upon as any thing more than a Castle when King William Rufus built the Tower of Male-veisin Tower [...] Male-v [...] over against it, the better to engage the Rebel Mowbray, who lurk'd here, and at last stole off and fled. A great part of its beauty was afterwards lost in the Civil Wars; when Bressie the stout Norman, who fought for the House of Lancaster, dealt unmercifully with it. Since that time it has been in a continual struggle with old Age, and the Winds; which [latter] has, through its large windows, drifted up an incredible quantity of Sea-sand in its several Bulwarks. Near this is Emildon, sometime the Barony of John le Viscont; Viscoun [...] but Rametta, the heir of the family, sold it to Simon de Monfort Earl of Leicester [aa]. In this [Barony] was born John Duns, call'd Scotus, Joh. Scot [...] Doct [...]r S [...] tiles, [...] A.D. 1 [...] because descended from Scotish Parents; who was educated in Merton-College in Oxford, and became an admirable proficient in Logick and School-Divinity: but so critically scrupulous, that he darkned all religious Truths. He wrote many things with that profound and wondrous subtlety (tho' in an obscure and impolish'd stile) that he won the name of Doctor Subtilis; and had the new Sect of Scotists erected in his name [bb]. He dy'd miserably:Paul [...] [...] vius i [...] [...] log. D [...] being taken with an Apoplectick fit, and too hastily buried for dead. For, Nature having too late wrought through the Distemper, he vainly mourn'd for assistance, till (at last) beating his head against the Tomb-stone, he dash'd out his brains, and so expir'd. Whereupon a certain Italian wrote thus of him:
That he was born here in England I affirm upon the authority of his own Manuscript Works in the Library of Merton-College in Oxford, which conclude thus: Explicit Lectura Subtilis, &c. Here ends the Lecture of John Duns, call'd Doctor Subtilis, in the University b of Paris; who was born in a certain Hamlet of the Parish of Emildun, call'd Dunston, in the County of Northumberland, belonging to the House of the Scholars of Merton-Hall in Oxford.
[...]ede.Upon this shore there is nothing further worth mentioning (except Holy-Island, of which in its due place) till we come to the mouth of Twede, which for a long way divides England from Scotland, and is call'd the Eastern March. Whereupon, thus our [Country-man] Necham 6:
This river rises in a large stream out of the Mountains of Scotland, and afterwards takes a great many turns among the Moss-Troopers and Drivers (to give them no worse name) who, as one expresses it, determine Titles by dint of Sword. When it comes near the village of Carram, [...]ram. being encreas'd with many other waters, it begins to distinguish the Confines of the Kingdoms: [...]k. and having pass'd Werk-Castle, sometime enjoy'd by the Rosses, and now by the Greys (who have been long a Family of great valour,) and frequently assaulted by the Scots, is inlarg'd by the river of Till. This river has two names: For, at its rise (which is further within the body of this County) 'tis call'd Bramish; [...]mish. and on it stands Bramton, [...]mton. a little obscure and inconsiderable Village [cc]. Hence it runs Northward by Bengely; which, together with Brampton, Bromdum, Rodam (which gave name to a Family of good note in these parts) Edelingham, &c. was the Barony of Patrick Earl of Dunbar, in the reign of Henry the third. Doomsday-Book says, he was Inborow and Outborow betwixt England and Scotland; that is, if I understand it right, he was here to watch and observe the ingress and egress of all Travellers between the two Kingdoms. [...]row, [...]t. For, in the old English Language, Inborou is an Ingress or Entry. More North, upon the river, stands Chevelingham or Chillingham; which was a Castle that belong'd to one Family of the Greys, as Horton-Castle did to another [dd]. But those two are now match'd into one.
Near this is the Barony of Wollover; [...]llover. which King Henry the first gave to Robert de Musco-campo or Muschamp, [...]s of the [...]champs. who bare Azure, three Butterflyes, Argent. From him descended [another] Robert, who, in the reign of Henry the third, was reckon'd the mightiest Baron in all these Northern parts. But the Inheritance soon after was divided and shared among women: [...] 35 H. 3. whereof one was marry'd to the Earl of Strathern in Scotland, another to William de Huntercombe, and a third to Odonel de Ford [ee]. Soon after, Till is encreas'd by the river of Glen; which gives the name of Glendale [...]ndale. to the Valley through which it runs. Of this rivulet Bede gives us the following accountc; [...]2. c. 14. Paulinus coming with the King and Queen to the Royal Manour of Ad-gebrin ('tis now call'd Yeverin) stay'd there with them six and thirty days; [...]erin.which he spent in the duties of Catechising and Baptizing. For, from morning till night, his whole business was to instruct the Country People, that flock'd to him from all places and villages round, in the Principles of Christianity; and, after they were so instructed, to baptize them in the neighbouring river of Glen. This Manour-house was disus'd by the following Kings; and another erected in its stead at Melmin, now Melfeld.Melfeld.
Here, at Brumford near Brumridge, King Athelstan fought a pitch'd Battel against Anlaf the Dane,Battel of Brumford. See H. Hunting d. Will. Malmesb. and Ingulphus. Constantine King of Scots, and Eugenius petty King of Cumberland [ff], wherein he had such success, that the Engagement is describ'd by the Historians and Poets of that Age in extraordinary Raptures of Wit and7 Bombast. In this place the name of Bramish is lost in Till; which first passes by Ford-Castle Ford. (heretofore the property of the valiant Family of the Herons, now of the Carrs;) and Etal, Etal. formerly the seat of the Family ofd Manours or de Maneriis; which was long since of a knightly rank, and out of which the present Right Honourable Earls of Rutland are descended. I wittingly omit many Castles in this Country: for 'twere endless to recount them all; since 'tis certain, that in the days of Henry the second, there were 1115 Castles in England.1115. Castles in England.
Over against this Ford, Westward, rises the high Mountain of Floddon 8;Battel of Floddon, 1513. famous for the overthrow of James the fourth King of Scots and his Army; who, while King Henry the eighth lay at the siege of Tournay in France, with a great deal of Courage and a greater deal of Hopes (for, before they began their March, they had divided our Towns among them) invaded England. Here Thomas Howard Earl of Surrey, with a good Army, bravely receiv'd him. The Dispute was obstinate on both sides, till the night parted them, unable still to determine which way Victory inclin'd. But the next day discover'd both the Conquerour and the Vanquish'd; and the King of Scots himself, being mortally wounded in several places, was found among the heaps of the slain. Whence a new Addition was given to the Arms of the Howards9.
Twede, encreas'd by Till, runs now in a larger stream by Norham Norham. or Northam; which was formerly call'd Ubban-ford. The Town belongs to the Bishops of Durham: For Bishop Egfrid built it, and his Successor Ralph erected the Castle on the top of a steep rock, and moted it round. In the utmost Wall, and largest in Circuit, are plac'd several Turrets on a Canton towards the river; within which there is a second Enclosure much stronger than the former; and, in the middle of that again, rises a high Keep. But the well-establish'd Peace of our times has made these Forts to be long neglected; notwithstanding that they are placed upon the very Borders [gg]. Under the Castle, on a Level Westward, lyes the Town and Church; wherein was buried Ceolwulph, King Ceolwulph. King of Northumberland, to whom Venerable Bede dedicated his Books of the Ecclesiastical History of England, and who afterwards,Rog. Hoveden. renouncing the World, took upon him the habit of a Monk in the Church of Lindisfern, and listed himself a Souldier of the Kingdom of Heaven, his body being afterwards translated to the Church of Northam. When also the Danes had miserably wasted the Holy Issand, wherein S. Cuthbert (so much magnified by Bede) was Bishop, and lay buried, some endeavour'd, by a religious stealth, to convey his body beyond Sea: but, the winds standing contrary, they with all due reverence, deposited the sacred Body at The printed Books have (corruptly) Bulbeford. Will. Malmesb. de Gest. Pont. lib. 1. Ubbanford (whether a Bishop's See or no, is uncertain) near the river Twede; where it lay for many years, till the coming [Page] of King Ethelred. This, and other matters, were taught me (for I shall always own my Instructors) by George Carlton born at this place, being son to the Keeper of Norham-Castle; whom, for his excellent Proficiency in Divinity (whereof he is Professor) and other polite Learning, I love, and am lov'd by him: and I were unworthy of that love, if I should not acknowledge [his Friendship.] The old people told us that at Killey, Killay. a little neighbouring Village below Norham, were found (within the memory of our Grandfathers) the studds of a Knight's Belt,A golden Hilt. and the hilt of a Sword, of massie Gold; which were presented to T. Ruthall Bishop of Durham.
A little lower you have the mouth of Twede; on the farther bank whereof stands Berwick, Berwick. the last Town in England, and best fortify'd in all Britain [hh]. Some derive the name of this Town from one Berengarius, a Romantick Duke. Leland fetches it from Aber, the British word for the mouth of a river; and so makes Aberwick to signifie a Fort built upon such a mouth. But they will best understand the true etymology of it, who know what is meant by the word Berwicus in the Charters of our Kings,Ingulphus renders Berwicus a Mannour. wherein nothing's more common than I give the Townships of C. and D. cum suis Berwicis [ii]. For my part, what it should mean I know not; unless it be a Hamlet or some such dependency upon a place of better note. For, in the Grants of Edward the Confessor, Totthill is call'd the Berwicus of Westminster, Wandlesworth the Berwicus of Patricksey; and a thousand of the like. But, why all this pains? 'Tis lost labour if (as some maintain) the Saxons call'd it anciently Beornica-ƿic, that is, the Town of the Bernicians; for that this part of the Country was call'd Bernicia we have already noted, and the thing is too well known to be here repeated. But (whence ever it had its name) its situation carries it a good way into the sea; so that that and the Twede almost incircle it. Being seated betwixt two mighty Kingdoms (as Pliny observes of Palmyra in Syria) it has always been the first place that both Nations, in their wars, have had an eye on; insomuch, that ever since Edward the first wrung it out of the Scotch hands, the English have as often retaken it as the Scots have ventur'd to seize it. But, if the Reader pleases, we will here give him a summary abstract of its History. The oldest account I find of Berwick, 1171 is, that William King of Scots, being taken prisoner by the English, pawn'd it for his ransom to our Henry the second; redeemable only within such a time [kk]. Whereupon, says the Polychronicon of Durham, Henry immediately fortify'd it with a Castle. But Richard the first restor'd it to the Scots upon their payment of the money. Afterwards King John (as the History of Melross reports) took the Town and Castle of Berwick, at the same time that he burnt Werk, Roxburgh, Mitford, and Morpath, and (with his Rutars) wasted all Northumberland; because the Barons of that county had done homage to Alexander King of Scots at Feltun. A great many years after this, when John Baliol King of Scotland had broken his Oath, Edward the first reduc'd Berwick in the year of our Lord 1297. But soon after, the fortune of war favouring the Scots, our men quitted it, and they seiz'd it: but the English forthwith had it surrender'd to them again. Afterwards, in the loose reign of Edward the second, Peter Spalding surrender'd it to Robert Brus King of Scots, who warmly besieg'd it; and the English vainly attempted its recovery, till (our Hector) Edward the third bravely carry'd it in the year 1333. In the reign of Richard the second, some Scottish Moss-troopers surpriz'd the Castle, which, within nine days, was recover'd by Henry Percie Earl of Northumberland. Within seven years after this the Scots regain'd it; but by purchace, not by their valour. Whereupon the said Henry Percie (being then Governour of the Town) was accus'd of High-treason: but he also corrupted the Scots with money, and so got it again. A long time after this, when England was almost spent in civil wars, Henry the sixth (being already fled into Scotland) deliver'd it up to the King of Scots, the better to secure himself in that Kingdom. Two and twenty years after, Thomas Stanley, with a great loss of men, reduc'd it to the obedience of Edward the fourth. Since which time the Kings of England have several times fortify'd it with new works; but especially Queen Elizabeth, who lately (to the terrour of the enemy, and security of the Burghers) hath drawn it into a less compass than before, and surrounded it with a high stone wall of firm Ashler work, which is again strengthen'd with a deep ditch, bastions, and counterscarp; so that its fortifications are so strong and regular, that no besiegers can hope to carry it hereafter. (Not to mention the valour of the Garrison, and the surprizing plenty of Ammunition and all warlike stores.) Be it also remember'd, that the Governour of this place was alwaies a person of the greatest wisdom and eminence among the English Nobility; and was also Warden of these eastern Marches. The Mathematicians have plac'd this Town in 21 degrees and 43 minutes of longitude, and in 55 and 48 of [northern] latitude. So that the longest day, in this climate, consists of seventeen hours and 22 minutes; and its night has only six hours and 38 minutes.Brita : has [...] of Day. So truly has Servius Honoratus written of this Country: Britain, says he, has such plenty of day, that she has hardly any room for night. Nor is it a wonder, that the Souldiers of this Garrison are able to play all night at dice without a candle, if we consider their thorow twilight, and the truth of Juvenal's expression:
Take, at parting, J. Jonston's Verses upon Berwick,
It may not be amiss to add here the account which Aeneas Sylvius or Pope Pius the second (who came Legate into Scotland about the year 1448.) gives of the borderers in this Country,The Co [...] ment [...] i [...] Pius 2. p [...] lish'd [...] the [...] Gebed [...] in his life written by himself, since their manners still continue the same.
A certain Twede River, falling from a high mountain, parts the two Kingdoms: over which Aeneas ferry'd; Manners [...] the Ba [...] rers. and coming to a large village about sun-set, he alighted at a country-man's house, where he sup'd with the Curate of the place and his host. The table was plentifully furnish'd with pottage, hens, and geese; but nothing of either wine or bread appear'd. All the men and women of the town flock'd in as to some strange sight: and, as our countrymen use to admire the Aethiopians or Indians, so these people star'd at Aeneas, asking the Curate, what countryman he was? what his errand could be? and, whether he were a Christian or no? But Aeneas, being aware of [Page] the scarcity he would meet with on this road, was accommodated by a Monastery with a rundlet of red wine and some loaves of bread. When these were brought to the table, they were more astonish'd than before, having never seen either wine or white bread. Big-belly'd women, with their husbands, came to the table side, and handling the bread and smelling to the wine, beg'd a taste: so that there was no avoiding the dealing of the whole amongst them. After they had sate at supper till two hours within night, the Curate and the Landlord (with the children and all the men) left Aeneas, and rub'd off in haste. They said, they were going to shelter themselves in a certain tower, at a good distance, for fear of the Scots, who (at low water us'd to cross the river in the night, and fall a plundering. They would by no means be perswaded to take Aeneas along with them, though he very importunately entreated them to do it. Neither carry'd they off any of the women, though several of them, both wives and maids, were very handsom: for they believe the enemy will not harm them; not looking upon whoredom as any ill thing. Thus Aeneas was left alone (with only two Servants and a Guide) amongst a hundred women, who sitting in a ring, with a fire in the middle of 'em, spent the night sleepless, in dressing of hemp, and chatting with the Interpreter. When the night was well advanc'd, they had a mighty noise of dogs barking and geese gagling; whereupon the women slipt off several ways, the guide run away, and all was in such a confusion as if the enemy had been upon 'em. But Aeneas thought it his wisest course to keep close in his Bed-chamber (which was a Stable) and there to await the issue; lest, running out, and being unacquainted with the Country, he should be robb'd by the first man he met. Presently both the women and the guide return, acquainting them that all was well, and that they were Friends (and no Enemies) that were arriv'd [ll].
There were in this Country certain petty Nations who were call'ddd Sevenburgenses anddd Fifburgingi; [...]bur [...]es. [...]gingi but so dark is the account we have of 'em, that I am not able to ascertain the true place of their residence, nor tell you whether they were Danes or English. 1013 Florence of Worcester (publish'd by the right honourable the Lord William Howard) says, that whilst the Parliament sate at Oxenford, Sigeferth and Morcar (two eminent and mighty e Ministers of the Seovenburgenses) were privately murder'd by Edrick Streona: And that Prince Edmund, [...]rince of [...] Edbur [...]g. contrary to the good liking of his father, marry'd Alfrith the wife of Sigeferth; and taking a progress as far as the Fifburgingi, invaded Sigeferth's Territories, and subdu'd his People. But let others make a further enquiry into these matters.
[...]gs, [...]kes, and [...]s of [...]thum [...]rland.This Province was first brought under the Saxon yoke by Osca, the brother of Hengist, and his son Jebusa; and was for some time under the government of Dukes, who were homagers to the Kings of Kent. Afterwards, when the Kingdom of the Bernicians [...]nicians. (whom the Britains call Guir a Brinaich, that is, Mountainers) was erected, the best part of it lay between the Tees and the Scottish [or Edinburg] Frith; and this was subject to thef Kings of Northumberland. When these had finish'd their [fatal] period, all beyond Twede became part of Scotland; and Egbert King of the East-Saxons had the surrender of this County, andg annex'd it to his own Dominions. Alfred afterwardsh assign'd it to the Danes; who, within a few years, were thrown out by Athelstane. Yet, even after this, the People made a King of Eilric the Dane, who was forthwith expell'd by King Ealdred. Henceforward the name of King was no more heard of in this Province; but its chief Magistrates were call'd Earls, whereof these following are successively reckon'd by our Historians, Osulph, Oslac, Edulph, Waldeof the Elder, Uchtred, Adulph, Alred, Siward, Tostius, Edwin, Morcàr, and Osculph. Amongst these, Siward was a person of extraordinary valour; who, as he liv'd, so he chose to dye in his Armour.Ingulph. p. 511. b. An. 1056. His County of York was given to Tostius, Brother to Earl Harold; and the Counties of Northampton and Huntingdon, with his other lands, bestow'd on the noble E. Waldeof, his son and heir. I have here given you the very words of Ingulphus, because there are some who deny that he was Earl of Huntingdon. To this let me also add what I have met with on the same subject, in an old Parchment [Manuscript] in the Library of John Stow, a most worthy Citizen, and industrious Antiquary, of the City of London. Copsi being made Earl of Northumberland by William the Conquerour, dispossess'd Osculph, who nevertheless, soon after slew him. Afterwards, Osculph himself was stabb'd by a Robber, and dy'd of the wound. Then Gospatrick bought the County of the Conquerour, by whom he was also presently divested of the Honour, and was succeeded by Waldeof the son of Siward. He lost his head, and was succeeded by Walcher Bishop of Durham, who (as well as his successor Robert Comin) was slain in an insurrection of the Rabble [mm]. The title was afterwards conferr'd on Robert Mowbray, who destroy'd himself by his own wicked Treason10. Then (as the Polychronicon of Durham tells us) King Stephen made Henry, the son of David King of Scots, E [...]rl of Northumberland: and his son William (who was also himself afterwards King of Scots) wrote himself William de Warren Earl of Northumberland; for his mother was of the family of the Earls of Warren, as appears by the Book of Brinkburn-Abbey. Within a few years after, Richard the first sold this County to Hugh Pudsey Bishop of Durham, for life: but when that King was imprison'd by the Emperour, in his return from the Holy War, and Hugh advanc'd only two thousand pounds in silver towards his ransom, Lib. Dunelm. the King took this slender contribution so ill, (knowing that under colour of this ransom he had rais'd vast sums) that he depriv'd him of the Earldom.
At present that Honour is enjoy'd by the family of the Percies, Percies descended from Charles the Great. who being descended from the Earls of Brabant, got the sirname and inheritance of the Percies together; which was done by (the true Off-spring of Charles the Great, by Gerberg daughter to Charles younger brother of Lotharius, the last King of France of the Caroline stock) Josceline younger son of Godfrey Duke of Brabant, who marry'd Agnes daughter and sole heir of William Percie. This William's great grandfather (call'd also William Percie) came into England with William the Conquerour, who bestow'd on him lands in Tatcaster, Linton, Normanby and other places. This Agnes covenanted with Josceline, that he should take upon him the name of Percie, but should still retain the ancient Arms of Brabant, which were, a Lion Azure (chang'd afterwards by the Brabanters) in a Field Or. The first of this family that was made Earl of Northumberland, was Henry Percie, the son of Mary daughter of Henry Earl of Lancaster. This Noble-man signaliz'd his valour in the wars under Edward the third, and was by him rewarded with large Possessions in Scotland. He was very much enrich'd by his second wife Matilda Lucy, who oblig'd him to bear the Arms of the Lucies; and by Richard the second was created Earl of Northumberland. His behaviour was very ungrateful [Page] to this his great Benefactor; for he deserted him in his straits, and help'd Henry the fourth to the Crown. He had the Isle of Man bestow'd on him by this King11 against whom he also rebell'd, being prick'd in Conscience at the unjust deposing of King Richard, and vex'd at the close confinement of (the undoubted Heir of the Crown) Edmund Mortimer Earl of March, his kinsman12. Hereupon he first sent some Forces against him under the command of his brother Thomas Earl of Worcester, and his own forward son Henry sirnam'd Whot-spur, who were both slain in the battel at Shrewsbury. Upon this he was attainted of High-Treason; but presently receiv'd again into the seeming favour of the King, who indeed stood in awe of him. He had also his estate and goods restor'd him, except only the Isle of Man, which the King took back into his own hand. Yet, not long after, the popular and heady man again proclaim'd war against the King as an Usurper, having call'd in the Scots to his assistance. And now, leading on the Rebels in person, he was surpriz'd by Thomas Rokesby, High-Sheriff of York shire, at Barham-moor; where, in a confused skirmish, his Army was routed, and himself slain, in the year 1408. Eleven years after, Henry the fifth (by Act of Parliament) restor'd the Honour to Henry Percie, his Grandchild by his son Henry Whotspurre; whose mother was Elizabeth, the daughter of Edmund Mortimer the elder Earl of March, by Philippa the daughter of Lionel Duke of Clarence. This Earl stoutly espoused the interest of Henry the sixth against the House of York, and was slain in the Battel of St Albans. His son Henry, the third Earl of Northumberland (who married Eleanor the daughter of Richard Baron of Poynings, Brian and Fitz-Paine) lost his life in the same quarrel, at Towton, in the year 1461. When the House of Lancaster, and (with it) the Family of the Percies, was now under a cloud, King Edward the fourth created John Nevis, Lord Montacute, Earl of Northumberland: but he quickly resign'd that Title, being made Marquiss Montacute. After which, Edward the fourth graciously restor'd (to his father's Honours) Henry Percie, son of the fore-mention'd Henry; who, in the reign of Henry the seventh, was slain by a rabble of the Country People, in a Mutiny against the Collectors of a Tax impos'd on them by Act of Parliament. To him succeeded Henry Percie, the fifth Earl: from whom (who was himself the son of a Daughter and Co-heiress of Robert Spenser) and Eleanor, Daughter and Co-heiress of Edmund Beaufort Duke of Somerset, descended Henry the sixth Earl. He (having no Children, and his brother Thomas being executed for rebelling against Henry the eighth in the beginning of the Reformation) squander'd away a great part of his fair Estate, in Largesses upon the King and others; as if his Family had now been reduc'd to a final period. A few years after, John Dudley, Earl of Warwick, got the Title of Duke of Northumberland Duke [...]f Nor [...] berland. 13; when, in the Non-age of Edward the sixth, the Ring-leaders of the several Factions shared the Titles of Honour among themselves and their Abettors. This was that Duke of Northumberland, who for some time (as a Whirlwind) troubled the Peace of his Native Countrey; by endeavouring to exclude Mary and Elizabeth, the Daughters of Henry the eighth, from their lawful Right of Succession: designing (by the countenance of some Lawyers, inclinable enough to serve Great men) to have settled the Crown on Jane Grey, to whom he had married his son. Hereupon, being convicted of High Treason, he lost his head; and on the Scaffold openly own'd and profess'd the Popish Religion, which (either in good earnest, ork seemingly and to serve a turn) he had, for a good while before, renounc'd. Upon his death, Queen Mary restor'd Thomas Percie, Nephew to Henry, the sixth Earl, by his brother Thomas; creating him at first Baron Percie, and (soon after, by a new Patent) Earl of Northumberland, 3 & [...] P [...] & Ma [...]. To himself and the Heirs-male of his Body; and for want of such, to his Brother Henry and his Heirs-male. But this Thomas the seventh Earl, under pretence of restoring the Romish Religion, rebelled against his Prince and Country, and so lost both his Life and Honour in the year 1572. Yet, by the special bounty of Queen Elizabeth, his brother Henry (according to the Tenure of Queen Mary's Patent) succeeded him as the eighth Earl, and dy'd in Prison in the year 1585. He was succeeded by his son Henry, the ninth Earl of Northumberland of this Family; who was also son of Katharine, eldest Daughter, and one of the Heirs of J. Nevil Baron Latimer.
ADDITIONS to NORTH-HƲMBERLAND.
[a] HUmphrey Lhuyd places these People about Lothian in Scotland: and herein he is not contradicted by Buchanan, who never fails of doing it when he can have an opportunity. All agree they were Picts; and therefore, if they did inhabit some part of this County, it must have been beyond the Wall. Possibly Naeatae is the true reading. And then they are more probably placed by our Author near the Wall or Rampire. For Naid or Nawd, in the old British, signifies a Defence or Security. And why may not the Transcribers of Dio (for he is the only man of Antiquity that mentions these People) turn his Naeatae into Maeatae; as well as those of Marcellinus have made Attigotti, Catacotti, and Catiti, out of his Attacotti.
[b] Our Author observes, this Country was divided into Baronies; [...]nies. and very good Baronies they were, according to the old and true import of the word. For the Civilians define a Barony to be Merum mistúmque Impertum in aliquo Castro, Oppidóve, concessione Principis. Alciat. Lib. de Sing. Cert. cap. 32. Such a Jurisdiction it was requisite the Men of rank should have here on the Borders: and upon obtaining the Grant, they were properly Barones Regis & Regni. (See the signification of the word at large in Sir Henry Spelman's Gloss. voc. Baro.) All Lords of Manours are also to this day legally nam'd Barons, in the Call and Stile of their Courts, which are Curiae Baronum, &c. (Selden's Titles of Honour, Part 2. cap. 5.) But long before King Edward the first's time, the name of Barones was chiefly apply'd to the Peers in Parliament. Thus, in the famous Contest about the Votes of Bishops in Criminal Matters, in the reign of Henry the second, A. D. 1163. we have this decision of the Controversie, Archiepiscopi, Episcopi, &c. sicut caeteri Barones debent interesse judiciis Curiae Regis cum Baronibus, quousque perveniatur ad diminutionem Membrorum vel ad mortem. Matth. Par. (edit. Watsii) p. 101. Many like Instances might be given.
[...].[c] Caer-vorran may not improbably be Glanoventa; which Mr. Camden imagines to have been somewhere on Wentsbeck. For there is a place near it which is still call'd Glen-welt. The distance from hence to Walwick will suit well enough with the Itinerary: and 'tis not the first Elbow which Antonine has made in his Roads through this part of the Country. Thus, by fetching in Castra Exploratorum, he makes it twenty four miles from Blatum Bulgium to Luguvallum: whereas, the common Road, 'tis only ten very short ones.
[d] Bede's Account of the Roman Wall (Eccl. Hist. l. 5. c. 10.) is very likely, fair and true. For in some places on the Wasts, where there has not been any extraordinary Fortifications, several fragments come near that height, and none exceed it. His breadth also (at eight foot) is accurate enough: For, whereever you measure it now, you will always find it above seven.
[...].[e] Old-town seems more likely to be the Alone of Antoninus (in the Liber Notitiarum, Alione) than any other place which has hitherto been thought on. It answers best the distances both from Galana and Galacum; and many Roman Antiquities, which have been found there, strengthen the conjecture. The name of the river also, whereon 'tis seated, argues as strongly for this place as West-Alon can do for Whitley.
[f] The huge heaps of small Cobbles are not the only Monuments which these Wasts afford. There are also large stones erected at several places, in remembrance (as is fancied) of so many battels or skirmishes; either anciently betwixt the Britains and Picts, or (of later times) betwixt the English and Scots. Particularly, near Ninwick, in the Parish of Simondburn, four such stand still erected: and a fifth lyes fall'n to the ground.
[g] Notwithstanding the great encouragement which the Inscription gives to the placing of Bremenium Bremenium at Rochester, I still fancy Brampton in Gillesland was the place; as our Author himself sometime thought Brampton in Northumberland to be. The distance from this Brampton to Corbridge is as agreeable as from Rochester: and 'tis gratis dictum (and ought to be well prov'd, before the weight of the Objection can be taken off) that the words [id est, à vallo] are an Interpolation of the Transcribers.
[h] We may be allow'd to remark here, what a person of great honour and skill in our English Antiquities has noted before, that the old Ballad of Chevy-Chase Chevy-Chase. (Sir Philip Sydney's Delight) has no other foundation for its story, save only the Battel of Otterburn. There was never any other Percy engag'd against a Douglass but this Henry: who was indeed Heir to the Earl of Northumberland, but never liv'd to enjoy the Honour himself. Sir John Froyssart (who liv'd at the time) gives the fullest account of this Battel; but says 'twas Earl James Douglas who was the Scotish General.
[i] Riese, in the German Language, does signifie a Gyant (as our Author observes.) But I doubt whether our Saxons used the word: or, if they did, whether the name of this place imports any more than its situation on a high and rising ground. Most of the Villages in these parts were anciently so placed, though afterwards the Inhabitants drew down into the Valleys.
[k] Chipches Chipches. is now the Seat of Sir John Heron Baronet, whose Ancestors have for many and many Generations been of eminent note in this County. 'Tis true, we meet with their name variously spell'd in our Histories and Records; as Hairun, Heyrun, Heirun, &c. Amongst whom William Heyrun was for eleven years together Sheriff of this County in the reign of Henry the third: And some of our Histories seem to hint that he was well enrich'd by the Preferment. The Family afterwards was branch'd out into the Herons of Netherton, Meldon, &c.
[l] As to the story of Oswald, Oswald▪ Bede indeed seems to say, the Battel was against Cedwall; but Matthew of Westminster says it was fought against Penda King of the Mercians, who was at that time General of Cadwalline's Forces. And the story of setting up the Banner of the Christian Faith, must be understood to be in Berniciorum Gente, as Bede says in the place cited, if it have any truth in it: For Christianity was, some years before, planted in the Kingdom of Northumberland by Paulinus; and a Church was built at York by King Edwin, Oswald's Predecessor. But (when all's done) this remark is not in the Saxon Paraphrase of Bede's History: so that we have reason to look upon it as a spurious Corruption. It does indeed contradict the account which himself elsewhere gives of Paulinus's baptizing great numbers in these very parts; which surely was Fidei Christianae signum. (See the Note on Yeverin.) Nor was Heavenfield the place where the Battel was fought, and (as is here asserted) the Victory obtain'd: for [...]hat was done at another place in the neighbourhood, which Bede calls Denises burna; and which our Author (as we shall see anon) takes to be Dilston. The Writer of Oswald's Life, 'tis true, supposes this to have been the Scene of the Action; tho' Bede says only that here was the Cross erected, and here (afterwards) the Chapel built.
[m] 'Tis no wonder to find a deal of Poets (and a great deal they are) that have written in the praise [Page] [...] [Page] [...] [Page] of S. Oswald. His introducing of Christianity was not the thing that rais'd his credit (for so much King Edwin had done before him) but his chief stock of Merit consisted in his bringing in Monkery along with it. 'Twas this that gave him so considerable a figure amongst the men of the Cloyster, and advanc'd him to a like honour with what his name-sake-Saint of York attain'd to afterwards.
[n] The Prior's account of the place is much fuller than our Author has thought fit here to give it. He is very particular in his description of the Church's Fabrick, in its Walls, Roof, Cieling, Stairs, Pillars, &c. and (at last) concludes, That no such stately structure was, at that time, to be met with on this side the Alpes. Which latter part of its Character is also confirm'd by Will. of Malmesb. de Gest. Pontif. lib. 3. Prior Richard informs us also at large, what Immunities and Privileges were granted by our Saxon Kings to this Church; how well they were secur'd to her; how far the bounds of her Fridstol or Sanctuary extended, &c. All which the Reader may see in his Hist. lib. 1. cap. 3, & 5. & lib. 2. cap. 3. & 14.
[o] All the Latin Copies of Bede that I have seen, say, Oswad's victory was in loco qui linguâ Anglorum Denises burna vocatur. And the Saxon Copies of King Aelfred's Paraphrase have denisses, denisces and denises burna. The Saxon Chronicle has not recorded this story. Sir Francis Ratcliff Baronet, (the present Proprietor of the place) is now Baron of Dilston, Viscount Langley, and Earl of Derwent-water (not in Yorkshire, as a late Writer of the state of England asserts, but) in Cumberland.
[p] Though King John could meet with no Discoveries at Corbridge, Corbridge. there was a considerable one accidentally made here about four years ago. The bank of a small Torrent being worn by some sudden showers, the Skeleton of a Man appear'd, of a very extraordinary and prodigious size. The length of its thigh-bone was within a very little of two yards; the skull, teeth, and other parts proportionably monstrous. So that, by a fair computation, the true length of the whole body has been reckon'd at seven yards. Some parts of it are still in the possession of the right honourable the Earl of Derwent-water at Dilston; but his Lordship having had no notice of the thing till 'twas (in a great measure) squander'd and lost by the unthinking discoverers, the Rarity is not so compleat, as whoever sees the remains of it, will heartily wish it were. The like bones are reported to have been frequently discover'd on the the shore near Alnmouth in this County; all of 'em at a greater depth in the ground than they can well be imagin'd ever to have been buried.
[q] From Newcastle New-castle. down to a little within the Bar of Tinmouth (which is a sand that lies cross the river's mouth, not above 7 foot deep at low water) the chanel is good and secure: but there you meet with a deal of Rocks, which they call the Black Middins, very dangerous. To prevent much of the mischief which might happen among these in the night-time, there are two Light-houses maintain'd by the Trinity-house in Newcastle; near which was built Clifford's Fort in the year 1672. which effectually commands all Vessels that enter the River.
[r] There are in this Town, besides St. Nicholas's (the Parochial or Mother-Church) six other Churches or Chapels, whereof one was rebuilt at the publick charge of the Corporation, A. D. 1682. and endow'd with sixty pounds per annum, whereof thirty is for the maintenance of a Catechetical Lecturer, who is to expound the Catechism of the Church of England every Sunday, and to preach a Sermon every first Wednesday in the month. Twenty pounds are assign'd to a Schoolmaster, and ten to an Usher, who are to prepare the Children of the Parish for the said Lecture. Besides which, the Town pays yearly 580 l. towards the maintenance of their Vicar, and those Lecturers and Curates that are under him.
[s] Both its Wealth and Commerce are wonderfully encreas'd since Camden's time. The Coal-trade is incredible; and for other Merchandice, Newcastle is the great Emporium of the northern parts of England, and of a good share of Scotland. The publick Revenue is also wonderfully advanc'd of late years: for which the Town is in a great measure indebted to the provident care and good management of its two great Patriots Sir William Blacket Baronet, and Timothy Davison Esquire, Aldermen.
[t] At Fenham, a little village in the parish of Newcastle, there are now some Coal-pits on fire, which have burn'd for several years. The flames of this subterraneous fire are visible by night; and in the day-time the track of it may be easily follow'd by the Brimstone which lies on the surface of the Earth.
Newcastle has afforded the title of Earl to Lodowick Stewart, (Duke of Lennox, and Earl of Richmond) created in May 1604. But in the year 1627. this title was conferr'd upon William Cavendish, Viscount Mansfield and Baron Ogle, who was afterwards, in 1643. created Marquiss of Newcastle, and the year following Duke of Newcastle. In 1676. he was succeeded by his son Henry Cavendish. But of late the right honourable John Holles Earl of Clare was created Duke of this place by his present Majesty.
[u] The Rutarii Rutarii or Ruptarii are not only mention'd by our Historians in the reign of King John: but, before his time, in the reign of Hen. 2. and after it, under Hen. 3. By all the accounts we have of 'em, it appears they were mercenary German Troops. Now, in the High-Dutch, Rott (whence our English Rout) is a Company of Soldiers; Rotten or Rottiren, to muster; Rottmeister, a Corporal, &c. That from hence we are to fetch the true original of the word, we are sufficiently taught by Will. Neubrigensis, who liv'd and wrote his History in the times of these Rutars. Rex, says he, stipendiarias Brabantionum copias, quas Rutas vocant, accersivit, lib. 2. c. 27. Dr. Wats is therefore mistaken, who (in his Glossary) derives the name from the German Reuter, a Trooper or Horseman.
[uu] The Town of Morpeth, together with Gilles-land, &c. came by Elizabeth, sister and coheir of George the last Lord Dacre, to (her husband) the Lord William Howard of Naworth, third son to the Duke of Norfolk, whose grandson Charles, was, soon after the Restauration of Charles the second, created Earl of Carlisle, and Viscount Morpeth. Which Honours were inherited by his son Edward, and are now enjoy'd by the most accomplish'd young Nobleman his grandson Charles, the third Earl of Carlisle of this Family.
[w] At the famous Synod (mention'd by our Author) S. Cuthbert is said to have been chosen Bishop. By the account that Bede (and especially his Royal Paraphrast) gives of the matter, it looks more like a Parliament than a Synod; for the Election is reported to have been mid anmodre geꝧafunge ealra ꝧaera ƿitena. Now ƿitena, in the Language of those times, signifies Senators or Parliament-men; who, it seems, unanimously chose him Bishop. Bed. Eccl. Hist. l. 4. c. 28. The meeting is indeed said to have been on the river Alne. And yet I very much doubt whether this Twiford Twiford be in Northumberland; and whether Archbishop Theodore ever came so far north. There are a great many Twifords in the south of England. The Legend of S. Cuthbert (p. 17.) says, this Synod was held at Twiford upon Slu.
[x] There never was any Covent or Monastery founded at Alnwick, Alnwic [...] or near it, by John Vescie. There was indeed a Monastery of the Order of the Praemonstratenses founded by Eustachius Fitz-John Father of William de Vescie; who had that sirname from his Mother an Heiress. But this was done in the year 1147. long before the Carmelites were heard of in England. John Bale (who was sometime a Carmelite himself) tells us, the first Covent of that Order was founded at Holm (Hull they now call it) near Alnwick by Ralph Fresburn, a Northumberland Gentleman, who dy'd A. D. 1274. and was buried in this [Page] Covent. See Bale de Script. Brit. Cent. 4. c. 1. and J. Pitz. ad Ann. 1274. 'Tis a wonder how our Author came to mistake thus; since he uses some of Bale's very words, and must doubtless have read his account. Eustachius's Abbey is still to be seen at half a mile's distance from the Covent of Hull, down the river.
[...]sta [...]ge.[y] Within the Circuit of the old Castle of Dunstaburge grew lately 240. Winchester Bushels of Corn, besides several Cart-loads of Hay. 'Tis now famous for Dunstaburgh-Diamonds, a sort of fine Spar, which seems to rival that of St. Vincent's Rock near Bristol.
[z] I do not think Bede himself ever gave out that Etymology about Bebba. No mention of it in the Saxon. But 'tis there call'd cynelican byrig, i.e. a Royal Mansion; and 'tis also said that it was miserably wasted by Penda, the Pagan King of the Mercians; who had certainly burnt it, had not the Prayers of Bishop Aidan happily interpos'd. Bede lib. 3. capp. 12. & 16. It was afterwards totally ruin'd and plunder'd by the Danes, A. D. 933. Yet, as ruinous as it now is, the Lord of the Manour (William Forster Esq) still holds here, in a corner of it, his Courts of Leet and Baron. Florence of Worcester seems to me to have been the first contriver of the story of Queen Bebba. See Sir H. Spelman's Gloss. in Beria. After Mowbray's flight mention'd by our Author, and his being taken at Tinmouth, the Castle of Bamborough was stoutly maintain'd by Morael, his Steward and Kinsman; till the Earl himself was, by the King's order, brought within view of the Fort, and threatned with the having his eyes put out, in case the besieged held out any longer. Whereupon, it was immediately surrender'd; and Morael, for his bravery, receiv'd into the King's Court and Favour. See the Saxon. Chron. ad Ann. 1095.
[aa] The Improvements in Tillage at Rock by John Salkeld Esq and in Gardening and Fruitery at Falladon by Samuel Salkeld Gent. (both in the Parish of Emildon) ought here to be mention'd; as Fineries hardly to be equall'd on the North-side of Tyne. The latter is the more observable, because an eminent Author of this Age will hardly allow any good Peaches, Plumbs, Pears, &c. to be expected beyond Northamptonshire; whereas Fruit is produc'd here in as great variety and perfection as most places in the South.
[bb] The study of School-Divinity was mightily in fashion about Scotus's time, and especially in the University of Oxford, where the petulant humours of the Dominicans put the Students upon all sorts of wrangling. Hence this place has afforded more men of eminence in that way than (perhaps) all the other Universities of Europe: and these have marshall'd themselves under the glorious Epithets of Subtilis, Profundus, Irrefragabilis, &c.
[cc] As pitiful a Hamlet as Mr. Camden here makes of Brampton, [...]pton. 'tis the place he once pitch'd upon for the Bremenium of the Ancients; and so the word is still render'd in the Indices of his latest Editions. It has also been of good note, in our time, for one of the prettiest Houses in this part of the County, the Seat of George Collingwood Esq a branch of the House of Eslington.
[dd] In the Hall, at Chillingham-Castle, [...]ing- [...]-castle. there is a Chimney-piece with a hollow in the middle of it; wherein ('tis said) there was found a live Toad, at the sawing of the Stone. The other part of it is also still to be seen (with the like mark upon it, and put to the same use) at Horton-Castle.
[ee] What our Author names Wollover, [...]ver. they call usually Wooler. 'Tis a little inconsiderable Market-town, with a thatch'd Church, and some other marks of the Poverty of the Inhabitants. The advantages of a late Brief, upon a Fire that here happen'd, may possibly raise it fairer out of its present Ashes.
[ff] [...] Gloss. [...]ron. From a passage in Florence of Worcester, one may probably conjecture that Brunanburh (for so all our Historians, but Ingulphus, call it) must have been some-where nearer the Humber. Tho', perhaps, it will be more difficult to carry the great Constantine of Scotland, and the little King of Cumberland, so high into Yorkshire; than to bring Anlaf thus far down into Northumberland.
[gg] The Town and Church of Norham Norham. were both built by Bishop Egfrid, or Egred, as some call him; who was a mighty Benefactor to the See of Lindisfarn. The Church was dedicated to St. Peter, St. Cuthbert, and St. Ceolwulph, the religious King of Northumberland; who was the first of our Princes that had the Gallantry to retire from a Throne to a Monastery. His Body was also deposited here by the same Bishop; and the Monks of the following Age took care to bring in the Country round to pay their Devotion (and Tribute) to their Royal Brother; who always oblig'd his visitants with some kind Miracle or other. Vide Sim. Dunelm. Hist. Eccl. l. 2. c. 5. Et Rog. Hoveden. ad Ann. 764. In the year 1121. the Castle was built by Bishop Ralph; for the better security of this part of his Diocese against the frequent Incursions of the Scotish Moss-Troopers.
[hh] Berwick Berwick: is now much out-done, in strength and regular fortifications, by Portsmouth, Hull, Plymouth, and some other Forts in England; and is chiefly strong in the present Union of the two Kingdoms.
[ii] This word is variously written in old Records; Berewica, Berewica. Berwicha, Berwichus, Berewich, Berewita, and Berwita. Of all which see Instances in Sir H. Spelman's Glossary. It may be, the most suitable derivation of it (for our present purpose) is what Fr. Tate has given us in his MS. Exposition of the hard words in Doomsday-Book. Berewica, says he, is a Corn-Farm. The Etymology agrees with the plenty of grain about the Town of Berwick.
[kk] By the account that M. Paris gives of the Conditions whereon the King of Scots was releas'd, it does not appear that the Town of Berwick was redeemable; but absolutely surrender'd and made over. Pro hâc autem conventione & fine, says he, firmiter observando, dedit Rex Scotorum Regi Anglorum, & Successoribus suis Castella de Berwicke, & de Rokesburc in perpetuum possidenda.
[ll] Whatever roughness Mr. Camden might fancy he saw in the Manners of the People of Northumberland, 'tis certain that the Description which Aeneas Silvius gives of them is not their due at this day. Their Tables are as well stock'd as ever with Hens and Geese; and they have also plenty of good bread and beer. Strangers and Travellers are no novelties to them; the Roads betwixt Edinburgh and Newcastle being as much frequented by such (of all Nations) as almost any others in the Kingdom. A Roundlet of Red-wine is a greater rarity in a Country-man's house in Middlesex, than on the borders of Northumberland; where you shall more commonly meet with great store of good Claret, than in the Villages of any other County in England. That Wine is not the constant drink of the Country ought no more to be remark'd as a thing extraordinary, than that Yorkshire-Ale is not common in Italy. The Country-Keeper is able to inform you that the Moss-Trooping Trade is now very much laid aside; and that a small Sum will recompence all the Robberies that are yearly committed in this County; where mens persons are as safe, and their goods as secure, as in the most civiliz'd Kingdoms of Europe. Whoredom is reckon'd as scandalous a vice here as elsewhere; and it were our happiness if, in the Southern parts of the Kingdom, it were as little fashionable. In a word; the Gentry of Northumberland are generally persons of address and breeding, and preservers of the true old English Hospitality in their Houses: And the Peasants are as knowing a people, and as courteous to strangers, as a man shall readily meet with in any other part.
[mm] Bishop Walcher was a most vile oppressour and scandalous worldling. He bought the Earldom of Northumberland, and resolv'd to make the people pay for it. But, at last, being wearied with daily extortion, and reduc'd almost to beggary, they unanimously fell upon him, and slew him, at a County-Court; which he used always to attend himself in person, the better to secure the Fees and other Perquisites. [Page] (And, at that time, these were considerable; since the Sheriffs of Northumberland never accounted to the King, before the third of Edward the sixth.) Their Foreman gave the word; which most of our old Historians have thought worth the recording to posterity, ‘Short red, good red, slea ye the Bishop.’
Continuation of the EARLS.
Earls of Northumberland.The last Earl that Mr. Camden mentions, was a great Patron of Learned men, especially Mathematicians, with whom he kept a constant familiarity and correspondence. Soon after the discovery of the Powder-Plot, he was committed Prisoner to the Tower: upon suspicion of his being privy to that part which his kinsman Tho. Percie had in the Conspiracy. He was succeeded by his son Algernoon; whose son Joceline (the last Earl of this Family) dy'd at Turin, A. D. 1670. leaving only one daughter, Elizabeth, the present Dutchess of Somerset. Upon his death the Honour was given by King Charles the second to his own natural Son George Fitz-Roy, who is now Duke of Northumberland.
More rare Plants growing wild in Northumberland.
Chamaepericlymenum Park. Ger. Periclymenum humile C. B. parvum Prutenicum Clusii J. B. Dwarf Honey-suckle. On the West-side of the North-end of the highest of Cheviot-hills in great plenty.
Echium marinum B. P. Sea-Buglosse. At Scrammerston-mill between the Salt-pans and Barwick, on the Seabaich, about a mile and a half from Barwick.
Lysimachia siliquosa glabra minor latifolia. The lesser smooth broad-leav'd codded Willow-herb. On Cheviot-hills by the Springs and Rivulets of water.
Pyrola Alsines flore Europaea C.B. Park. Herba trientalis J. B. Winter-green with Chick-weed flowers. On the other side the Picts-wall five miles beyond Hexham Northwards. And among the Heath upon the moist Mountains not far from Harbottle westward.
Rhaphanus rusticanus Ger. Park. C. B. sylvestris sive Armoracia multis J. B. Horse-radish. We observ'd it about Alnwick and elsewhere in this County, in the ditches and by the water-sides, growing in great plenty.
Eryngium vulgare J. B. vulgare & Camerarii C. B. mediterraneum Ger. mediterraneum seu campestre Park. Common Eryngo of the Midland. On the shore call'd Friar-goose near New-castle upon Tyne.