LETTER. I.

SEEING you are so earnest with me to let you know all my Adventures and whatsoever I have observ'd du­ring my Travels, you must therefore be contented (my dear Cousin) to bear with a great many trifling Occur­rences, before you can meet with what will please you: I know your fancy is so nice and delicate, that none but ex­traordinary Accidents can entertain you; and I wish I had no others to relate: but recounting things faithfully, as they have hapned, you must be contented therewith.

I gave you an Account in my last, of what I met with as far as Bayonne: you know this is a Town in France, Fron­tier to Spain, wash'd by the Rivers Dadour and Nivelle, which joyn together; and the Sea comes up to them. The Port and Trade are considerable: I came from Axe by Water, and observ'd that the Boat-men of Adour have the same Custom as those of Caronne; which is to say, That in passing by one another, they set up a Hollowing; and they had rather lose their Wages than to forbear these sort of Shoutings, although exceeding vexatious to those who are not used to them. There [Page 2] are two Castles strong enough to defend the Town, and there are about it several pleasant Walks.

At my Arrival there, I intreated the Baron de Castlenau, who had accompany'd me from Axe, to bring me acquainted with some Women, with whom I might spend my time with less impatience, till the Litters came, which were to be sent to me from St. Sebastian.

He readily complied with my Request: for being a Person of Quality and Worth, he is much esteem'd at Bayonne. He fail'd not the next Morning to bring several Ladies to visit me.

These Women begin here to feel the scorching Heats of the Sun; their Complexion is dark, their Eyes sparkling; they are charming enough, their Wits are sharp: And I could give you a farther Account of their Capacities, could I have better understood what they said: not but that they could all speak French, yet with such a different Dialect, as surpast my Under­standing.

Some who came to see me, brought little sucking Pigs un­der their Arms, as we do little Dogs: it's true they were very spruce, and several of 'em had Collars of Ribbons, of various Colours: However, this Custom looks very odd, and I cannot but think that several among themselves are disgusted at it: When they danced, they must set them down, and let these grunting Animals run about the Chamber, where they make a very pleasant Harmony. These Ladies danc'd at my Intreaty, the Baron of Castleneau having sent for Pipes and Tabors.

The Gentlemen who attended the Ladies, took each of 'em her whom he had brought with him, and the Dance began in a Round, all holding Hands: they had afterwards long Canes brought them, and then each Spark taking hold of the Lady's Handkerchief, which separated them from one another, moved very gracefully at the Sound of this Martial sort of Musick, which inspired them with such Heat, that they seem'd not to be able to moderate it. This seem'd to me to resemble the Pyrric Dance so much celebrated by the Ancients; for these Gentle­men and Ladies made so many Turns, Frisks and Capers, their Canes being thrown up into the Air, and dexterously caught again, that it is impossible to describe their Art and Agility: And I had a great deal of Pleasure in seeing 'em; but methoughts it lasted too long, and I began to grow weary of this ill-ordered Ball▪ When the Baron de Castleneau, who perceiv'd it, caused se­veral Baskets of dried Fruit to be brought in. They are the Jews who past for Portuguises, and dwell at Bayonne, who transport them from Geroa, and furnish all the Country with them. We [Page 3] wanted not for Limonade, and other refreshing Waters, of which these Ladies drank heartily; and so the Entertainment ended.

I was carry'd the next Morning to see the Synagogue of the Jews, in the Suburb of the Holy Spirit, but met with nothing remarkable there. Monsieur de St. Pe, the Kings Lieutenant, who came to see me, though much troubled with the Gout, invited me to Dine at his House, where I was most deliciously entertain'd; for this is a Country abounding with good Cheer, and at cheap Rates. I found here Women of Quality, that were very handsome, whom he had invited to bear me Compa­ny. The sight of the Castle, which faces the River, is very pleasant, and has always a good Garrison in it.

At my return to my Lodging, I was surpriz'd to find several Pieces of Linnen, which were brought to me from the Ladies who came to see me, with Baskets full of dried Sweet-meats. This Treatment seem'd to me very obliging, to a Lady whom they had not known above four or five Days. But I must not forget to tell you, there is not any finer Linnen in the World than that which is made in this Country, some of which is open like Net-work, and the Threads of it finer than Hair: And I remember, that travelling thro' the Villages of Bourdeaux, which may be rather call'd Desarts, the poor Peasants living so wretchedly; yet I found among them as neat Napkins as those used amongst People of Quality at Paris.

I fail'd not to send these Ladies such little Presents which I thought might please them: I perceiv'd they were great Ad­mirers of Ribbons, and wear a great many on their Heads and Ears, which made me send them a great many; to which I ad­ded several Fans: and they, by way of Return, presented me with Gloves, and Thread-Stockins, most delicately knit.

In sending them to me, they desired me to go to the next Chappel, which was not far from my Quarters, where they in­tended to Regale me with the best Musick the Town would af­ford but though there were very good Voices, yet there is no great pleasure in hearing them, because they want both Air and Skill.

The Litters which I expected from Spain, being come, I prepared for my Departure; but I never met any thing dearer than these sort of Equipages; for each Litter has a Master that accompanies it, who keeps the Gravity of a Roman Senator, being mounted on a Mule, and his Man on another, with which they release ever and anon those that carry the Litter. I had two, I took the greatest for my self and my Child, and had besides four Mules for my Servants, and two others for my [Page 4] Baggage: to conduct them, there were other two Masters and two Men. You see what Charge one is at, to go to Madrid, seeing you must pay not only for their Attendance on you for­wards, but the same Price for their return back: However, we must submit to their Customs, and suffer our selves to be peel'd by them.

I found at Bayonne several Turks and Mores, and I think a worse sort of People, and these are Custom-House-Men: I had caused my Trunks to be weigh'd at Paris, that I might have the less to do with these sort of People; but they were more subtle, or to speak better, more obstinate than I; so that I was forc'd to give them whatsoever they demanded. Scarcely was I got clear from them, when the Drums, Trumpets, Pipes, and Violins of the Town, came thundring upon me; they fol­low'd me farther than St. Anthony's Gate, through which you pass for Spain through Biscaye: they play'd each of them in their way, and all together without any Harmony, which was enough to drive any one out of their Senses: I ordered some Money to be given them, upon which they left persecuting me. As soon as we had left Bayonne, we enter'd into a large bar­ren Heath, where we saw nothing but Chesnut-Trees; but we afterwards past along by the Sea, whose Sand makes a delight­ful way, and a pleasant Prospect.

We arriv'd in good time at St. John de Luz: nothing can be pleasanter than this Borough, which is the greatest in France, and the best built; there are several smaller Cities: its Port lies between two Mountains, which Nature seems to have ex­presly placed to defend it from Storms; the River Nivelle dis­gorges it self therein; the Sea comes up very high in it, and the greatest Barks come up commodiously to the Key. The Seamen here are very skilful at catching Whales, and other large Fish. We were here very well entertain'd, so that our Tables were covered with all sorts of Wild Fowl: but our Beds were not answerable, being stuck with Feathers whose Pinions ran into our sides, and we wanted Quilts to lay on the top of them: I thought when we were to pay, that I should have had a large Reckoning, but they only demanded of me half a Lewis Dor, when they would have cost more than five Pistoles at Paris. The Situation of St. John de Luz is extream­ly agreeable.

In the most spacious part of the Town you see here a very fine Church, built after the Modern Fashion; and here is a Passage over the River Nivelle, on a Wooden Bridge of great length. Here are Toll-Gatherers, who make you pay for eve­ry [Page 5] thing you carry with you, not excepting your Cloaths: This Tax is demanded at their Pleasure; and it is excessive on Strangers. I was weary with speaking French to 'em, and pro­testing I was no Spaniard; they feigning not to understand me, sneering in my Face, and wrapping up their Heads in their Hooded-Gowns; they seem'd to me to be Thieves, dis­guised in Capuchins: In short, they tax'd me eighteen Crowns, and would perswade me they used me well, tho' I found the contrary. But I have already told you (dear Cosin), that when you travel this Country, you must stock your self with Patience, and good store of Money.

I saw the Castle of Artois, which seems a strong place; and a little farther Orognes, where the Biscaye is spoken, without either French or Spanish. I design'd to lye at Iron, which is but three Leagues distant from St. John de Luz and I had set out that after Noon, but the Dispute which we had with the Watch on the Bridge, the Difficulty we had in passing the Mountains of Beotia, and the ill Weather, joyned to other little Difficul­ties which hapned, were the Cause that it was Night before we arriv'd on the Borders of the River Bidassoa, which separates France from Spain. I observ'd along the way from Bayonne thi­ther, little Carriages, on which they transport every thing, which have only two Iron Wheels, and the Noise they make is so great, that they are heard a mile off, when there are ma­ny of them together, which often happen; for you often meet with Sixty or Seventy at a time; they are drawn by Oxen. I have seen the same in the Villages of Bourdeaux, and especi­ally on the side of Axe.

The River of Bidassoa is usually very small, but the Snows melting, had increas'd it to such a degree, that we had no small trouble to pass it, some in a Boat, and others swimming on their Mules: The Moon shined very bright, by means of which I was shew'd on the right Hand the Isle of Conference, where the Marriage of our King was made with Maria Therese, Infanta of Spain. I saw a while after the Fort of Fontarabia, which belongs to the King of Spain, standing on the Mouth of this small River: the Flux and Reflux of the Sea arrives here. Our Kings heretofore pretended it belong'd to them: there have been such great Contests hereupon, especially by the Inhabitants of Fontarabia, and those of Andaye, that they have several times come to Blows. This oblig'd Lewis the Twelfth, and Ferdinand, to agree, That it should be common to both Na­tions: the French and the Spaniards take Toll equally; these last [Page 6] making those pay who pass into Spain, and the former doing the like in relation to those who pass over to France.

War does not hinder Commerce on this Frontier: it's true they cannot subsist without it, seeing they must perish through Want, did they not assist one another.

This Country call'd Biscaye, is full of high Mountains, where are several Iron Mines: The Biscays climb up the Rocks as easily, and with as great swiftness as Stags: Their Language (if one may call such Jargon Language) is very poor, seeing one Word signifies abundance of Things: There are none but those born in the Country that can understand it; and I am told, that to the end it may be more particularly theirs, they make no use of it in Writing; they make their Children to read and write French and Spanish, according to which King's Sub­jects they are. It's certain, as soon as I past the little River of Bydassoa, I was not understood, unless I spake Castillan; and not above a quarter of an Hour before, I should not have been un­derstood had I not spoke French.

I found on the other side of this River a Banker of St. Se­bastian, to whom I was recommended: he tarried for me, with two of his Relations; they were cloath'd after the French man­ner, but ridiculously, their Justau Corps being short and large, and their Sleeves hanging down very short; those of their Shirts were so large, that they hung down below their Justan Corps: they had Bands without Collars, and Periwigs, one of which had enough Hair for four, and so frizled, as made 'em look as if they were frighted; iller-drest People you cannot meet with. Those who wear their own Hair, wear it very long and close, parting it on the Crown, and pass part of it behind their Ears: But what kind of Ears think you? those of Midas were not larger; and I believe, that to lengthen them, they are stretch'd when they be young: without question they find some kind of Beauty herein.

My three Spaniards made me in bad French most tedious and dull Complements. We past through the Bourg of Tran, which is about a quarter of a League from the River, and came after­wards to Irun, which is distant about another quarter of a League: this little Town is the first of Spain which you meet with, leaving France: it's ill built, the Streets are unequal, and there's nothing one can speak of: We entred into the Inn through the Stable, where are the Stairs on which you must ascend to your Chamber; this is the Country's Fashion. I found this House very light, by a great many Candles, which [Page 7] were as small as Pack-thread; there were at least forty in my Chamber, fixt on little bits of Wood; in the midst of 'em stood a Pan of Coals burning, made of Olive Rhines, to take away the scent of the Candles.

I had a great Supper, which my Gallants, the Spaniards had caus'd to be made ready for me; but all was so full of Gar­lick, Saffron and Spice, that I could eat nothing: and I had made very bad Cheer, had not my Cook made me a little Ragon of what he could find.

Determining to go but to St. Sebastian the next Morning, which is but seven or eight Leagues, I thought to Dine before I set out: I was sitting at Table, when one of my Women brought me my Watch to wind it up, as it was my Custom at Noon; it was a striking Watch, of Tompion's make, and cost me fifty Lewises: My Banker, who was by me, shew'd some desire to see it; I gave it him, with a customary Civility. This was enough: my Blade rises, makes me a profound Reve­rence, telling me, He did not deserve so considerable a Pre­sent; but such a Lady as I could make no other: That he would engage his Faith and Reputation, that he would never part with my Watch as long as he liv'd; and that he found him­self extreamly oblig'd to me. He kist it at the end of this pleasant Complement, and thrust it into his Pocket, which was deeper than a Sack. You'l take me to be a gery great Sot, in saying nothing to all this, and I do not wonder at it; but I confess ingenuously, I was so surpriz'd at his Proceeding, that the Watch was out of sight before I could resolve on what I was to do. My Women, and the rest of my Servants who were about me, stared on me, and I on them, blushing with Shame and Vexation to be thus caught: However, I recollected my self, and considered, that this Man was to pay me a good round Sum of Money for the Charge of my Journey, and to return Money to Bourdeaux, where I had taken it up; that having Bills of Credit on him, he might use several Tricks to me, and Put-offs, which might make me spend twice the Value of the Watch: In fine, I let him part with it, and endeavour'd to do my self Honour from a thing which gave me great Mortification.

I have learnt, since this little Adventure, that 'tis the Custom in Spain, when any thing is presented to one, if he likes it, and kisses your Hand, he may take it with him. This is a ve­ry pleasant Fashion, and being sufficiently acquainted with it, 'twill be my Fault if I am Trapt again.

I left this Inn, where they peel'd me sufficiently; for this is a grievous dear Country, and every one strives to be Rich at his Neighbour's Cost. A while after we had left the Town, we entred on the Pyrenean Mountains, which are so high and steep, that looking down, you see, not without Horror, the Precipices which environ them: we went thus as far as Rentery: Don Antonio (which was my Banker's Name) went before me, and for my more commodious Passage, he oblig'd me to quit my Litter; for although we had traverst several Mountains, yet there remain'd more difficult to pass: he made me enter into a little Boat, which he had prepar'd to go down the Ri­ver of Andaye, till we were near the Mouth of the Sea, where we saw the King of Spain's Gallions; there were three very fine and large ones. Our little Boats were set forth with Gilt Streamers; they were manag'd by Girls, who were very lusty and handsome; there are three in each, two that Row, and one who holds the Rudder.

These Wenches are very well shaped, of Chesnut Complecti­on, have very good Teeth, Hair Black, which they tie up with Ribbons, in Knots, and so let it hang behind them: They wear a kind of Veil on their Heads, made of Musling, em­broidered with Flowers of Gold and Silk, which hangs loose, and covers their Breasts: they wear Pendants in their Ears of Gold and Pearls, and Bracelets of Coral; they have a kind of Justau Corps, like our Gypsies, whose Sleeves are very strait: I can assure you they charm'd me. I was told, these Wenches swim like Fishes, and suffer neither Women nor Men among them. This is a kind of Republick, where they repair from all Parts, and where their Parents send them very young.

When they are willing to marry, they go to Mass at Fon­tarabia, which is the nearest Town to 'em; and there the young Men come to chuse 'em Wives to their Humour. He that will engage himself in Hymen's Bonds, goes to his Mi­stress's Parents, declares to them his Intentions, regulates eve­ry thing with them: And this being done, notice of it is given to the Maid: If she likes the Party, she retires to their House, where the Nuptuals are celebrated.

I never saw a more gay Air than that on their Countenances; they have little Habitations along the Water-side, and there are old Maidens to whom the younger pay Respect, as to their Mothers. They related these Particulars to us in their Lan­guage, and we hearken'd to 'em with great Delight, when the Devil, who never sleeps, disturb'd us with a vexatious Adven­ture.

My Cook, who is a Gascon, and exactly of the Humour of those of that Country, was in one of our Boats behind us, at some distance, very near a young Biscaneer, who appeared to him very handsome; he contented not himself with telling her as much, but would have rudely turn'd up her Veil. She being not used to this sort of plain Dealing, without any Words broke his Head with her Oar: Having done this Exploit, Fear seizing on her, she threw herself immediately into the Wa­ter, tho' the Season was very cold, and swam with great swift­ness; but having all her Cloaths on, and it being far to the Shoar, her strength began to fail her. Several of these Wenches who saw this at Land, leapt immediately into their Boats to her Assistance, when those who had remain'd in the Boat with the Cook, fearing the loss of their Companion, fell on him like two Furies, resolving by all means to drown him, and had like two or three times to have overturn'd their little Vessel, which we beholding from ours, had much a-do to part and appease them.

I assure you, the foolish Gascon was so cruelly handled, that he was all over blood; and my Banker told me, that these young Biscaneers provoked, are worse then Lions. In fine, we came to Land, but were scarcely on Shoar, but we saw this Wench which was saved out of the Water, making up to­wards us, with near fifty others, each with an Oar on their Shoulder, marching in Battle-ray, with Fife and Drum; when she who was to be the Mouth of the Company, advanc'd, and calling me several times Andria, which is to say, Madam, (for that's all I could retain of her Speech) gave me to under­stand, That they would have my Cook's Skin, if Satisfaction were not made proportionably to the Damage done their Com­panion's Cloaths. At the ending of which words, the She-Drummers fell loudly beating their Drums, and the rest of their Amazons set up an Hollowing, Leaping and Dancing, and Fencing with their Oars in a most astonishing manner.

Don Antonio, to make me amends for the Present he had wrung from me, (I cannot but often mention it, lying on my Heart as it does) undertook to make Peace: He found that my Cook, who thought himself sufficiently beaten, had Reason to give nothing; and therefore he distributed some Pieces of Money among this Marine Troop: On receipt of which they set forth lowder Hollow's than before, and wish'd me a good Journey, and speedy Return, each of 'em dancing and singing at the sound of their Pipes and Tabors.

We entred into a very rough Way, and ascending along ve­ry narrow Paths, on the side of which there are Precipices; so that I was greatly afraid lest the Mules which carry'd my Litter should stumble: We afterwards past over a large Sandy Field. I tarry'd some time in the Convent of St. Francis, which stands near the River of Andaye: We past over it on a very long Wooden Bridge; and though we were near St. Sebastian, yet we could not then perceive it, because a Mount of Sand hid the Town: It's situated on the Foot of a Moun­tain, which serves on one side as a Rampart against the Sea, and the Vessels come to the Foot of this Mountain, to shelter them from the Storms; for here arise extraordinary Tempests, that the Ships at Anchor perish in the Port: it's deep, and defended by two Moles, which leave only as much room as is requisite for one Vessel passing at a time. They have rais'd here a great four Square Tower, where there is ever a good Garrison to defend the Place, in case of Assault: it was a fine Day for the Season: I found the Town very pleasant, being surrounded with a double Wall: there are mounted several Pieces of Can­non on that part towards the Sea, with Bastions and Half Moons: the Town is situated in a Province of Spain, call'd Guipuscoa: the Out-parts are exceeding pleasant, by reason that the Sea, as I now said, serves for a Channel to it: the Streets of this Town are long and large, pav'd with great White Stones, which are always clean: the Houses are well enough; and the Churches decent, in which the Altars are of Wood, on which are hung little Pictures, from top to bottom. Mines of Iron and Steel abound in this Country, finer and purer perhaps than in any other Parts of Europe; and this is the greatest part of their Trade. Here the Wool which comes from Castille, is embark'd, which makes a considerable part of their Traffick. Bilbo and St. Sebastian are two of the most conside­rable Ports which the King of Spain has on the Ocean: The Castle stands very high, and may make an indifferent Defence: here are mounted several fine Pieces of Cannon, and there are a great many along the Ramparts; but the Garrison is so weak, that the Women might conquer them with their Distaffs.

Every thing is as dear in this Town as in Paris, yet they fare well here: Fish is excellent, and I was told Fruit was the same. I lay in the best Inn, and when I had been there some time, Don Fernand de Toledo, sent his Gentlemen to enquire, whether his Visit would not be troublesome to me; My Banker, who knew him, and who was then in my Chamber, told me, he [Page 11] was a Spaniard of great Quality, Nephew to the Duke D' Alva; that he came from Flanders, and was going to Madrid.

I receiv'd him with that Civility which was due to his Birth, and soon thereunto adjoyn'd particular Respects to his own Me­rit: He is a Gentleman of good Presence, has Wit and Po­liteness is Complaisant and Agreeable; he speaks as good French as I do; but understanding Spanish, and being desirous to speak it better, we therefore discours'd only in that Lan­guage.

I was very well satisfied with his Carriage. He told me he came Post hither from Brussels, and if I pleas'd, he would in­crease my Train, and be one of my Company. I thought he jested, and answered him accordingly; but he added, The ways were so full of Snow, that indeed they could not ride Post; that he could make more speed on Horses than in Litters, but the Honour of accompanying me, made abundant Recom­pence for that. In a word, I say he was a civil Person, and came no way short of the Gallantry natural to the Spanish Cava­liers: I therefore consider'd, how advantageous it might prove to have a Man of this Quality, and Country, who could make himself be heard and obey'd by the Muletteers, who have Iron Souls, and no Consciences.

I told him, I was very glad I met with him, and the Fati­gue of the Road would be less'ned by his Company. He im­mediately thereupon ordered his Gentleman to find a Litter for him: It being late, he took his leave of me, and I betook my self to eat a good Supper; for, my deer Cousin, I am none of those Romantick Ladies that never eat.

Scarcely did I begin to sleep, when I heard some-body speak French so near me, that I thought at first 'twas in my Chamber; but having hearkned with more attention, I found 'twas in a Chamber separated from mine by only some thin Boards, and those ill joynted: I drew my Curtain, and saw Light through the Crevices, and at the same time two young Women, the eldest of which appeared not to be above Seven­teen or Eighteen; neither of 'em were of those Beauties with­out Defect, yet were they so pretty, spake so sweetly, and had such great sweetness on their Countenances, that I was much taken with 'em.

The youngest, who seem'd to, continue the Conversation, said to the other, No, my dear Sister, there is no Remedy to our Misfortunes; we must die, or get them out of the Clutches of this vilanous Dotard. I am resolute for any thing, reply'd the other, in uttering a deep sigh, should it cost me my Life: What [Page 12] remains? Have we not sacrific'd all for them? Then considering a while their Misfortunes, they mutually embrac'd, and began to weep in a most piteous manner: And having consulted a while, and spake some other Words, the greatest part of which were interrupted by their Sighs, they concluded on Writing, which they did; and here is most of what I heard them read to one another:

Judge not of my Love and Grief by my Words, I have none can express either the one or the other; but remember you Ruine me, unless you betake your self to the greatest Extremities against him that persecutes us. He has now sent me word, That if we delay our Departure, he will have us seiz'd. Consider what he deserves from this base Ʋsage of us; and remember you owe me all, see­ing you owe me my Heart.

I think the other Billet was in these Terms,

Could I secure thee thy Happiness, in losing mine, I love thee sufficiently to offer thee such a Sacrifice:: Yes, I would fly from thee, couldst thou be Happy without me; but I know thy Heart too well to believe this. Yet thou remainest as Quiet in thy Pri­son, as if I were with thee: Break thy Chains without more de­lay; punish the Enemy of our Loves. My Heart shall be thy Recompense.

Having made up these Billets, they went out together; and I profess, I was not a little uneasie for 'em, and no less curious to know these poor Ladies Misfortunes. This hindred me from sleeping, and I was expecting their Return, when immediate­ly there was a great Uproar in the House: I saw an old Man enter the Chamber, attended by a great many Servants: He held one of these young Women by the Hair of the Head, which he had wound about his Arm, and drew her after him, as a wretched Sacrifice. Her Sister was not treated with less Cruelty, by those who led her: Perfidious Wretches, said he to them, not content with the irreparable Injury you do my Nephews, you would perswade them to be my Executioners? Had I not surpri­sed you with these seducing Letters what might have hapned? What dreadful Tragedies might I not have expected? But you shall pay once for all: as soon as ever the Day appears I will have you punisht as you deserve. Ah Sir, said she whom he held, remember we are Women of Quality, and that our Alliance can be no Dishonour to you; that your Nephews have given us their Faith, and we them ours; that in so tender an Age we have left all for their sakes; that we are strangers, and have no Friends here: What will become of us? We dare not return to our Relations: if you are for constraining us to this, or for putting us in Prison, let us intreat you rather pre­sently to dispatch us out of the World.

The Tears which they shed in such abundance, wrought in me the greatest Compassion: And had the old Man been as tender as I, he had soon freed 'em from their Trouble.

My Women, who had heard such a great Disturbance, and so near my Chamber, arose, in the fear of some Mishap to­wards me: I made Signs to them to draw near softly, and to behold through the Boards this sorrowful Spectacle: We hearkned to what they said, when two Men, with their Swords in their Hands, entred into my Chamber, the Door of which my Women had left open: They had Despair painted on their Faces, and Rage in their Eyes: I was so greatly frighted, that I cannot express it to you. They looked on one another with­out speaking a word; and having heard the old Man's Voice, they ran on that side.

I did not doubt but 'twas the two Lovers; and 'twas them indeed, who entred like two Lions into this Chamber: They struck these Servants with so great Terror, that never a one of 'em dared approach his Master, to defend him, when his Ne­phews advance towards him, and set their Swords to his Throat: Barbarian, said they to him, can you thus use Women of Quality, that are to be our Wives? Because you are our Guardian must you therefore be our Tyrant? And is not the separating of us from what we love, the taking of our Lives from us? It's now in our Power to take a just Vengeance of you; but we cannot do it to a Man of your Age, who cannot defend himself: give us then your Word, and swear by all that's Good and Holy, That in Acknowledgment for the Life we give you, you will contribute to our Happiness, and suffer us to perform what we have promis'd.

The poor old Wretch was so afrighted, that he could hardly make any Answer: However, he swore more than they would have him; he fell on his Knees, and kist an hundred times his Thumb laid a-cross one of his Fingers, after the manner of Spain. Yet he told them, whatever he had done, was onely in regard to their Interests; however, he would not in any sort, for the future, oppose their Inclinations, in reference to this Marriage. Two of the Domesticks took him under the Arm, and rather carried him away than led him. Then the Gentlemen seeing themselves free, threw themselves in their Mistresses Arms; they said to one another, whatever Grief, Love and Joy do usually in­spire in such Occasions. But in Troth, one must have a Heart as af­fected and content as theirs, to repeat all these things: they are only proper to Persons more tender than you are, my dear Cosin. But I hope you will excuse this Relation; I was so tired, in having not yet slept, that I could scarce hear any more, but [Page 14] confusedly: and to hear no more, I got farther into bed, and threw the Quilt over my Head.

The next Morning Don Fernand de Toledo, sent me some choice Wines, with great quantity of Oranges and Sweetmeats. As soon as he thought it a proper time to Visit me, he came: Having thankt him for his Present, I ask'd him, Whether he had heard nothing of what had past in the Night? He told me, No, for he had lain in another part of the House. I was about relating to him what I knew, when our Hostess entred into the Chamber: she came from the two Gentlemen who had given me that Disturbance, with the Swords in their Hands, intreating me to receive their Excuses. She likewise told me, That two young Ladies desired they might wait on me, and kiss my Hand. I answer'd these Civilities as I ought; and they soon entred.

What charming Effects does the Return of Joy pro­duce? I found these Gentlemen very well shaped, and these Ladies very lovely; neither one nor the other had any more on their Countenances the Characters of Despair; an Air of Gaiety display'd itself in all their Words and Gestures. The Eldest of the two Brethren made the most handsome Excuse as is possible for his Mistake in entring my Chamber: he ad­ded, He had well observ'd the Fear he had caus'd me; but told me, that in that Moment he was so transported, that he was capable of no other Thought but the Rescuing his Mistress. You would have been to blame, said I to him, should you have thought of any thing else: However, if it be true, you are willing to make me Satisfaction for the Alarum you have giv'n me, you must not refuse the gratifying my Curiosity: With these fair Ladies leave, inform we what has reduced all of you to these Extremities you were in. He lookt on them, as if it were to ask their Approbation, which they willingly granted; and he thus began: We are two Brothers, Madam, Natives of Burgos, and of one of the best Families of this City. We were very young, when we fell into the Hands of an Ʋncle, who took care of our Education and Estates, which are so considerable, that we need not envy others on that account; Don Diego (is our Ʋncle's Name) he had made long since a firm Friendship with a Gentle­man living near Blaye, whose Merit is far above his Fortune; he is call'd Monsieur de Mesignac: our Ʋncle resolving to send us for some time into France, he wrote hereupon to his Friend, who offered him his House, which he joyfully accepted. He made us set out; and it is a Year since we were receiv'd there with great Civility; Madam de Messignac used us as her own Children; she [Page 15] has several: but of her four Daughters, those you see are the most amiable. It would have been very difficult to have seen them eve­ry day, to dwell with them, and yet not to have loved them.

My Brother at first conceal'd from me his growing Passion, and I hid mine from him; we were both of us very melancholly; the trouble of loving, without being lov'd again, and the fear of dis­pleasing those who caus'd our Passion, all this cruelly tormented us; but a new Vexation did greatly increase our Disquiet, which was a restless Jealousie we had one of another: My Brother plainly saw I was in Love, and thought 'twas with his Mistress; I lookt on him likewise as my Rival; and we bore such Hatred to one another, as might have transported us to the greatest Extre­mities: but that I resolutely determin'd one day to discover my Sentiments to Mademoiselle de Messignac; but wanting Courage to speak to her my self, I wrote some Verses in a little Book touch­ing my Passion for her, and dextrously slid it into her Pocket, without her perceiving me. My Brother, who had always an Eye on me, observ'd it, and playing with her, he took out the Verses, and found 'em to contain a respectful and passionate Declaration of Love to her: he kept them till Night, when being withdrawn into my Chamber, with the greatest Inquietude, he came to me, and tenderly embracing me, he told me, He was heartily glad at the notice he had of my being in love with Mademoiselle de Mes­signac.

I remain'd as one Thunderstruck; I saw my Papers in his Hands; I imagin'd she had made them a Sacrifice to him, and that he came to insult on my Misfortune. He saw in my Eyes and Counte­nance part of what I thought: Undeceive your self, continued he, she gave 'em not to me; I have taken 'em without her seeing them: I'll be serviceable to you for the obtaining her; be you the same to me in relation to her elder Sister. I then embraced him, and promis'd him all he desired. Thus we mutually rendred good Offices to one another; and our Mistresses, who were not then acquainted with the power of Love, began to accustom themselves to hear talk of it.

It would be to abuse your Patience, to tell you, Madam, how we came at length by our Cares and Assiduities to win their Hearts. What happy Moments! what sweet Hours! to see without cea­sing what one loves, and to be beloved! to be together in the Fields, where an Innocent and Country Life let's one taste, without distur­bance, the Pleasures of a growing Passion; this is a Felicity which cannot be exprest.

Winter being come, Madam de Messignac was at Bourdeaux, where she had a House; we accompanied her thither; but this [Page 16] House was not great enough to ledge us, with all our Family; we took one near hers.

Though this Separation was only the Nights, yet we had lively Resentments of it; we were not now every Moment with 'em; our Visits were accompanied with a certain Air of Ceremonies, which disturb'd us. But our Alarums were much increas'd, when we saw two rich handsome Sparks address themselves to Mademoiselles de Messignac, and earnestly Court them, and that with the Approba­tion of their Parents. Good God, how we look'd! Their Proceedings went on at a great rate, and our dear Mistresses, who shared in our Sorrow, mingled every day their Tears with ours. In fine, having throughly tormented our selves, by devising a thousand fruit­less ways, I resolv'd to Address my self to Monsieur de Messignac: I spake to him, and told him what my Passion inspi­red me, to perswade him to defer these Marriages. He answered, He accepted, with the greatest Acknowledgments, the Offers my Brother and I made him; but being not of Age, what we might do at present might be afterwards Cancell'd: That his Honour was dear to him, though his Estate was small; howe­ver, should always esteem himself Happy, in living without Reproach: That my Uncle, who had entrusted us to him, might justly accuse him of Seducing us; and that in short, we must no more think of these Matters.

I withdrew in the greatest Affliction, which I shared with my Brother; and this was a dreadful trouble among us. Monsieur de Messignac, to compleat our misfortunes, sent an Account to my Ʋncle, of what had past, and earnestly intreated him to lay his Commands on us to be gone. He did so; and seeing no remedy to our Misfortunes, we went, my Brother and I, to Mademoiselles de Messignac, we threw ourselves at their Feet; We told them what might perswade Hearts already pre-possest: We gave them our Faith and Promises, Sign'd with our Blood: In short, Love made an end of vanquishing them; they conserted to go with us. In fine, we took such Measures, that our Passage was happy enough till our Arrival here; and it is not two days since entring this House, the first Person offering himself to us was Don Diego; He was impa­tient of our Return; and to satisfie himself, he came in quest of us. How did we look at this sight! He caus'd us to be apprehended as Criminals; and forgetting that Mademoiselles de Messignac, were the Daughters of his best Friend, and Persons of Quality, he loaded them with Injuries, and o're-whelm'd them with Threat­nings, after he had learnt from one of my Servants, that we had resolv'd to pass Incognito as far as Madrid, to some Re­lations we had there, to tarry in this place for a full liberty of [Page 17] declaring our Marriage. He lock't us up in a Chamber next to his; and we were there, when these Ladies came by Moon-light, coughing under our Windows. We heard them, and ran to them —They shew'd us their Letters; and we were devising on our Deliverance, when my Ʋncle, having notice of what past, silently came upon us with all his Servants, and before our Faces misused these amiable Creatures. In the Excess of our Despair our Strength, without doubt, increas'd. We broke open the Doors, which were fast shut on us, and we ran to Succour them, when imprudently, Madam, we came into your Chamber.

The Gentleman here stopt, and I found he had related his little History with great Ingenuity. I thank't him for it, and offer'd these Ladies my Endeavours, and those of my Friends, to appease their Family: Which Offers they accept­ed, and testifi'd their Acknowledgments.

Some Ladies of the Town, who came to see me, wou'd stop me; they proposed to me to go to the Religioses, whose Convent is so pleasantly situated, that the Prospect has no Bounds: You may see thence, at the same time, the Sea, Ships, Towns, Woods and Fields. They spake much in praise of the Voices, Beauty, and good Humour of these Religioses. Add to this, that the ill Weather was so increast, and the Snow fal'n in so great abundance, that no body advised me to proceed in my Journey. I was in suspence a while, but the Impatience I had to be at Madrid, prevail'd over all these Considerations, and I parted the next Morning. I have receiv'd of my Banker the Money I want.

But I must not forget to tell you, that the Inhabitants of this Town have a particular Priviledge, and of which they are not a little proud; which is, That when they Treat of any Affairs with the King of Spain, and that it is directly with him, he is oblig'd to speak with them bare-headed. I could not get the Reason from 'em for this.

I am told I must furnish my self with good store of Pro­vision, to prevent starving in some places through which we must pass; and Gammons of Bacon, dried Tongues, being much esteem'd in this Country, I have therefore taken up a good quantity; and as to the rest, we have sufficiently pro­vided. Now this being the Post-day, I would not omit this occasion of informing you of what has hapned to me; and testifying, that I am,

LETTER. II.

I Re-assume, Dear Cousin, without any Compliments, the Sequel of my Travels: In leaving St. Sebastian, we entred into a very rough Way, which brings you to such terrible steep Mountains, that you cannot ascend them without climb­ing; they are call'd Sierra de St. Adrian. They shew only Precipices and Rocks, on which a puling Lover may meet with certain Death, if he has a mind to it. Pine Trees of an extraordinary heighth crown the top of these Mountains. As far as the Sight will reach you see nothing but Desarts, cut with Streams clearer than Crystal. Near the highest part of Mount St. Adrian, you meet with an elevated Rock, which seems to have been placed in the midst of the way to block up the Passage, and thus separate Biscaye from the Old Castille.

A tedious and painful Labour has pierced this mass of Stone in manner of a Vault; you may walk forty or fifty Paces un­der it, without sight of Day, but what comes by the Over­tures at each Entry, which are shut by great Doors: You find under this Vault an Inn, which is left in the Winter, by Rea­son of the Snows: You see here likewise a little Chappel of St. Adrian, and several Caverns, where Thieves commonly re­treat; so that it is dangerous passing here without being in a condition of Defence. When he had traverst the Rock, we still a little ascended, to rrrive to the top of the Moun­tain, which is held to be the highest of the Pyraneds; it is wholly covered with great Ash Trees. There was never a finer place of Solitude; the Springs run here as in the Vallies: the sight is only bounded by the Weakness of the Eyes; Shades and Silence here reign, and the Eccho's an­swers on every side. We began afterwards to descend down faster than we climed up: We saw in some parts little barren Plains, many sandy places, and ever and anon Mountains co­vered with great Rocks. It is not without Reason, that in passing so near, you fear, lest some one of 'em should get loose, which would certainly over-whelm one; for you see some which are fall'n from the top, and hang in their passage on other Clefts; and these finding nothing in the way, would give a sorry Diversion to a Traveller. I made all these Reflections at my ease; for I was alone in my Litter, with my Child, who did not at all disturb my Thoughts. A River call'd Ʋrrola, big enough, but which was increased by the Torrents, and melt­ed Snow, slides along the Way, and breaks forth into parti­cular [Page 19] Streams in some places, which fall with a great impetuo­sity and noise, and make a very pleasant sound and sight.

We meet not here with those fine Castles to be seen on the Banks of the Loire, which make Travellers call it the Country of Fairies. Here are on these Mountains only some Shepherds Cottages, and some few Hovels, and at that distance, that you must go a great way before you can find them; yet all these Natural Objects, though very melancholly ones, yet have something that is very taking in them. The Snows were so high, that we had always twenty Men, who made way for us with Shovels. You will perhaps imagine this cost me very much; but here are so well establisht Orders, and those so well observ'd, that the Inhabitants of a Village are oblig'd to meet Travellers, and be their Guides to the next; and no one being bound to give them any thing, the least Liberality there­fore satisfies them. To this first Care there is added another, which is that of Ringing the Bells without-ceasing, to give no­tice to Travellers, where they may retreat in stormy Weather. They told me, there had not fall'n this forty Years so much Snow as we met with, there having been no Frost for a great while in this Province.

Our Troop was so great, that we might count our selves no ways inferiour to those Famous Caravans which go to Mecha; for without reckoning my Train, and that of Don Fernand de Toledo, there joyn'd with us near St. Sebastian, three Knights, with their Attendants, who return'd from their Commander­ships of St. James; there were two of this Order, and one of that of Alcantara: The first wear Red Crosses, in form of an embroidered Sword, on their Shoulders; and he of Alcantara had a Green one. One of the two first is of Andalousia, the other of Galicia, and the third of Catalonia; they are of good Families; he of Andalousia calls him self, Donesteve de Carvaial; he of Galicia, Don Sancho Sanniento, and the other of Cata­lonia, Don Frederic de Cardonne; they are Persons of good Meine, and well acquainted with the World. I receiv'd all pos­sible Civilities from them, having much of the French Humour in them. They have travelled over the greatest Part of Europe; and this has rendred them so Polite. We went to lye at Gala­reta; this is a Borough a little distant from Mount Adrian, situated in the little Province of Spain, I now mention'd na­med Alava, which makes a Part of Biscaye; we had there but bad Entertainment. They reckon it eleven Leagues from thence to St. Sebastian.

We had better Way from Galareta to Victoria, than we had [Page 20] before: The Country here yields much Corn and Grapes; and the Villages lie very thick together: We found here Custom-House-Men, who made us pay both for the Cloaths and Money we carried with us: they were not very exacting with us, be­cause our Company was too large to be imposed on. Don Fer­nand de Toledo had inform'd me over Night, that we were to travel near the Castle of Quebare, which was said to be haunt­ed with a Spirit, telling me a thousand extravagant Stories, which were readily swallow'd by the Inhabitants of the Country, and which were so effectually believ'd by them, that no body would live there. I had a great desire to see this place; for although I am naturally as fearful as another, yet am not afraid of Ghosts; and if I were, our Company was so numerous, as would animate the greatest Coward: we struck off a little to the left, and came to the Borough of Quebara; the Master of the Inn where we entred, had the Keys of the Castle; he told us, in going along with us, That the Duende, which is to say the Spirit, could not endure Company; yet if we were a thousand together, he would, if he were minded, beat us all, in such a manner, as to leave us for dead. I began to tremble; Don Fer­nand de Toledo, and Don Fredric de Cordonne, who gave me their Hands, perceiving my Fear, burst out into Laughter: I grew asham'd, and pretended to gain Courage; and so we entred the Castle, which might have past for a fine one, had it been kept in order: It had no Furniture, except an old Ta­pistry Hanging in a great Hall, which represented the Amours of Don Pedro the Cruel, and Donna Maria de Padilla: she is represented fitting like a Queen in the midst of other Ladies, and the King placing on her Head a Crown of Flowers: In ano­ther part she sate under the shade of a Wood, the King shew­ing her a Hawk on his Fist: And again, in another, she ap­pears in a Warrier's Dress, and the King in Armour presents her with a Sword; which makes me believe that she had been in some Warlike Expedition with him. She was very ill re­presented; and Don Fernand told me, He had seen her Effigies elsewhere, by which she appeared to be the most beautiful and most cruel Woman of her time; and that the Figures in this Tapistry resembled neither her nor the King: his Name, Cipher and Arms were every-where on it. We went up into a Tower, on the top of which was a Dungeon, and 'twas there where the Spirit inhabited; but without doubt he was abroad, for we neither saw nor heard him, or any of his Companions; and having seen sufficiently this great Building, we left it to pursue our Journey. In approaching Victoria, we past over a [Page 21] most delightful Plain, at the end of which stands a Town situa­ted in this Province of Spain, I lately mention'd, call'd Alava; this is the Capital Town of it, as well as the first of Castille: It is inclosed with two Walls, one of which is old, and the other new; besides this, it has no other Fortifications. After I had refresh'd my self a while here, 'twas proposed to me to go to a Play; but in tarrying till it began, I had no small Di­version, in seeing come into the most spacious place of the Town, four Companies of young Men, preceded by Drums and Trumpets: they marched several times round, and in fine, im­mediately began the Fight with Snow-balls, which they threw at one another with such Fierceness, that they were all very well pelted in the end: they were above two hundred who fought this Battle. To tell you of those who fell, or recovered their Feet again, and the Shouts and Acclamations of the Peo­ple, will be needless; and I was obliged to leave them thus en­gaged, to go to the place where the Play was to be represented.

When I entred into the Room, the People set forth an hol­lowing, Mira, mira! which is to say, look, Look,! The Decorati­on of the Theatre was not over Magnificent; it was rais'd on Barrels, and ill-rang'd Plancks; the Windows of the Room were open, for they used no Candles or Flambeaux, whence you may easily imagine this much takes away from the Beauty of the Sight. They acted the Life of St. Anthony; and when the Players said any thing which pleas'd the Company, all the People cried out, Victoria, Victoria; I was informed this was the Custom of the Country. I observ'd the Devil was no other ways clad than the rest, having only a pair of Stockins of a Flame-colour, and a pair of Horns to distinguish him. This Comedy consisted only of three Acts, and they are all no more: at the end of each serious Act, another began of Farce and Pleasantry, wherein appear'd him they called El Gracioso, which is to say, the Buffoon, who, among much insipid Stuff, says sometimes something that is less nauseous: The Interludes were mixt with Dances, to the sound of the Harps and Guitars: The Actors had Castagnets, and a little Hat on their Heads, without which they never Dance, and then 'tis a Saraband; they seem not to walk, they slip along so lightly. Their man­ner is wholly different from ours: they move too much their Arms, and often pass their Hands on their Hats and Face, and that with no ill Grace; they play admirably well on the Castagnets.

As to the rest, (Dear Cosin) I would not have you think these Actors, for being in a little City, do much differ from those of Madrid. I was told, that those of the King are a [Page 22] little better; but, in a word, both act what they call Las Come­dias Famosas, which is to say, The finest and most famous Comedies; which in truth are very ridiculous: For Example, when St. Anthony said his Confiteor, which he did often enough, all the Spectators fell down on their Knees, and gave them­selves such rude Mea Culpa's, as was enough to beat the breath out of their Bodies.

Here would be a proper place to speak of their Habits; but you had better excuse me till I come to Madrid, lest I tire you with Repetitions: Yet I must tell you, that all the La­dies I say, in this Company, had a prodigious quantity of Red, which begins just under the Eye, and passes from the Chin to the Ears, and Shoulders, to their very Hands; so that I ne­ver saw any Radishes of a finer Colour.

The Lady Governess of the Town drew near to me; she just toucht my Cloaths, and hastily drew back her Hand, as if she had burnt her Fingers. I bid her in Spanish not to be a­fraid: She at length familiariz'd her self, and told me, 'Twas not through fear of any thing else but of displeasing me: that 'twas no new thing to her to see French Ladies: and that if she might, she would gladly dress her self after their Fashion. She ordered Chocolate to be brought her, with which she pre­sented me; which is far better here than in France. The Play being ended, I took my Leave of her, having thanked her for her Civilities.

The next Morning, as I entred the Church to hear Mass, I espied an Hermit, who had the Air of a Person of Quality, and yet begg'd an Alms of me, with such great Humility, that I was greatly surpriz'd at it: Don Fernand having notice of it, drew near, and said to me, The Person whom you behold, Madam, is of an illustrious Family, and of great Merit, but his Fortune very Ʋnhappy.

You raise in me, said I to him, a great Curiosity to know more; and therefore I must beg your Favour to satisfie it. You may com­mand any thing of me, replied he, Madam; but I am not so throughly inform'd of his Adventures, to undertake the relating them to you; and I believe 'twere better I engage him into a Re­cital of them himself. He left me, and went immediately to Embrace him, with the greatest Civilities and Tenderness: Don Frederic de Cardonne, and Don Esteve de Carvajal, had al­ready accosted him, as their old Acquaintance; and when Don Fernand had joyn'd them, they all earnestly intreated him to come with them when Mass was over. He as earnestly excused himself; but being told, I was a Stranger, and much impor­tuned, [Page 23] that I might learn from himself, what had oblig'd him to turn Hermit; he at length consented, on condition I would permit him to bring one of his Friends, who was perfectly knowing in what related to him: Do us Justice, continued he, and judge whether 'tis fit for me to relate such Particularities in this Habit I wear. They found he had Reason, and pray'd him to bring his Friend, which he did a while after I was at my Lodgings: He presented a very fine Cavalier to me; and taking leave of us very civilly, he told him, He should be ob­lig'd to him, if he would satisfie, the Curiosity which Don Fernand de Toledo had giv'n me, of knowing the Spring of his Misfortunes. This Gentleman took place by me, and began in these Terms:

I think my self very Happy, Madam, that my Friend has choshen me to satisfie the Desire you have of knowing his Adventures; but I fear I shall not acquit my self so well as I would: The Person whose History you wou'd learn, has been one of the finest Gentlemen in the World; it would be hard to make a Judgment of him now; he is buried, as it were in his Hermit's Habit. He was an ex­ceeding graceful Person, well shaped, of an excellent Meine, and Noble Air: And in fine, had all the Accomplishments, both Natu­ral and Acquired, of a Person of Quality, being liberal, witty and brave. He was born at Cagliari, Capital of the Isle of Sar­dogne, one of the most illustrious and richest Families of all that Country.

He was brought up with one of his Cosin-Germans; and the simpathy which was sound in their Humours, and Inclinations, was so great, that they were more strictly united by Friendship than Blood: they hid no Secret from each other. And when the Marquiss Barbaran was married (which was his Cosin's Name,) their Friendship continued in the same force.

He married one of the finest Women in the World, and the most Accomplisht; she was then not above Fourteen: She was Heiress to a very Noble Estate and Family. The Marquess every day dis­covered new Charms in the Wit and Person of his Wife, which like­wise increased every day his Passion. He speaks without ceasing, of his Happiness, to Don Lewis de Barbaron; which is the Name, Madam, of my Friend; and when any Affairs oblig'd the Mar­quess to leave her, he conjured him to stay with the Marchioness, thereby to lessen the Trouble of his Absence. But alas! how hard is it when one is at an Age uncapable of serious Reflections, to see continually so fair a Woman, so young and aimable; and to see her with Indifference! Don Lewis was already desperately in Love with the Marchioness, and thought then 'twas only for her [Page 24] Husband's sake: Whilst he was in this Mistake, she fell danger­ously sick; at which he grew so dreadful melancholly, that he then knew, but too late, this was caus'd by a Passion which would prove the greatest Misfortunes of his whole Life. Finding himself then in this condition, and having not strength to resist it, he re­solv'd to use the utmost Extremity, and to fly and avoid a place where he was in danger of dying with Love, or breaking through the Bonds of Friendship. The most cruel Death wou'd have seem gentler than the Execution of this Design: When the Marchioness beginning to grow better, he went to her to bid her Adieu, and see her no more.

He found her busied in choosing among several Stones of great price, those which were the finest, which she intended to have set in a Ring, Don Lewis was scarce entred the Chamber, but she desired him, with that Air of Familiarity usual among Relations to go and fetch her other Stones which she moreover had in her Cabinet. He ran thither, and by an unexpected good hap, found among what he lookt for, the Picture enamill'd of the Marchioness, in little, set with Diamonds, and incircled with a Lock of her Hair; it was so like, that he had not the power to withstand the desire he had of stealing it: I am going to leave her, said he, I shall see her no more; I sacrifice all my quiet to her Husband: Alas! is not this enough? And may I not without a Crime, search in my Pain a Consolation so innocent as this. He kist several times this Picture; he put it under his Arm, he carefully hid it, and returning towards her with these Stones, he trembling told her the Resolution he had taken of Travelling. She appear'd much amazed at it, and chang'd her colour. He lookt on her at this moment; he had the pleasure of perceiving it; and their Eyes being of Intelligence, spake more than their Words: Alas! What can oblige you, Don Lewis, said she to him, to leave us? Your Cosin loves you so tenderly; I esteem you; we are never pleas'd without you; he cannot live from you: Have you not already travelled? You have without doubt some other Reason for your Departure, but at least do not hide it from me. Don Lewis, pierc'd through with sorrrow, could not forbear uttering a deep Sigh, and taking one of the delicate Hands of the Charming Person, on which he fixt his Mouth, Ah, Madam, what do you ask me? said he to her, What can I say to you? And indeed, What can I say to you, in the Condition I am in? The Violence he used, to conceal his Sentiments, caus'd him such a great Weakness, that he fell half dead at her Feet. She remained troubled and confused at this sight: She oblig'd him to sit down by her; she dared not lift up her Eyes to look on him; but she let him see Tears, which she could not for­bear shedding, nor resolve to conceal from him.

Scarcely were they come to themselves, when the Marquess en­tred into the Chamber. He came to embrace Don Lewis with all the Testimonies of a perfect Friendship, and he was in the greatest trouble, when he understood he parted for Naples. He omitted no Arguments to perswade him from it, prest his stay with the great­est Earnestness, but all in vain. He there immediately took his leave of the Marchioness, and saw her no more. The Marquess went out with him, he left him not till the moment of his De­parture. This was an Augmentation of Don Lewis's Sorrow; he would have willingly remained alone to have an intire Liberty of afflicting himself.

The Marchioness was sensibly afflicted at this Separation: She had perceived he loved her, before he had known thus much himself; and she had found in him such singular Merit, that for her part too she had loved him without knowing it; but she found this to her Cost after his Departure: Recovering but lately from a dangerous Sickness, of which she was not perfectly cured, this unhappy Acci­dent made her fall into a languishing Indisposition, as soon rendred her quite another body; her Duty, her Reason, her Vertue equally persecuted her: She was greatly sensible of her Husband's Respects to her, and she could not suffer but with great Sorrow, that ano­ther should take up her thoughts, and have so great a place in her Affections. She dared not any more mention the Name of Don Lewis; she never made any Inquiries after him; she made it an indispensable Duty to forget him: This Violence which she used on her self, was like a continual Martyrdom; she made one of her Wo­men, in whom she most confided, the Repository of this Secret: Am I not very unhappy? said she, I must wish never again to see a Man, towards whom it is impossible for me to be in a state of Indifference; his Person is always before mine Eyes; nay, I think sometimes I see him in the Person of my Husband; the Resemblance which is between them, serves only to nourish my Affection towards him. Alas! Mariana, I must die, to expi­ate this Crime, although it be an involuntary one: I have on­ly this means to get rid of a Passion of which I cannot hither­to be Mistress: Alas, what have I not done to stifle it, this Passion which yet is dear to me. She accompany'd these Words with a thousand Sighs: She melted into Tears, and though this Woman had a great deal of Wit and Affection to her Mistress, yet she could say nothing to her could yield her any Comfort.

The Marquess in the mean time, every day reproacht his Wife with her Indifferency to Don Lewis: I cannot suffer, said be to her, that you should think so little on the Man I love above all the World, and who had so much Complaisance and Friend­ship [Page 26] for you: I must needs say, this is a kind of Hardness, which would make one judge untowardly of the Tenderness of your Heart: At least, you must grant, Madam, that he was scarce­ly gone, but you forgot him. What good would my remem­bring him do him? said the Marchioness with a languishing Air, Do not you see he avoids us? Would he not have been still with us, if he had any real Kindness for us? Believe me, my Lord, he deserves a little that we should forsake him in our turn. Whatever she could say, repel'd not the Marquess; he still impor­tun'd her to write to Don Dewis to Return. One Day among the rest, she was gotten into his Closet to speak to him about some Af­fairs; she found him busied in reading a Letter of Don Lewis, which he lately receiv'd.

She would have retir'd; but he took this opportunity to oblige her to do what he would have her; he told her very seriously, That he could no longer bear the Absence of his Cosin; that he was resolv'd to go find him; that 'twas already two Years since he had been gone, without intimating any desire of returning to his Friends and Country; that he was perswaded he would yield a greater Deference to her Requests than his; that he con­jured her to write to him: And that in fine, she might chuse either to give him this Satisfaction, or be content to see him, part for Naples, where Don Lewis was to make some stay. She remain'd surpriz'd, and perplext at this Proposal; but knowing he expected with great Impatience her Determination, What would you have me say to him, my Lord? said she to him with a sor­rowful Countenance, Dictate this Letter to me, I will write it; I can do no more; and I believe this is more than I ought The Marquess, transported with Joy, most affectionately embrac'd her; he thank'd her for her Compliance, and made her write these Words:

IF you have any Kindness for us, defer not your Return; I have very urgent Reasons to desire it. I am not a little con­cern'd that you shew such Indifference towards us, which is an unquestionable Indication that you take no Delight in our Com­pany. Return, Don Lewis, I earnestly wish it; I intreat you: And if it were fit for me to use more urgent Terms, I would say, perhaps, I Command you to do it.

The Marquess made a single Pacquet of this fatal Letter, [...] the end Don Lewis might not think 'twas by his Order the Marchioness had wrote it; and having sent it to the Currier, he expected the Success with extraordinary Impatience. What becam [...] [Page 27] of this Lover at the sight of so dear and unexpected an Order! Although he had remarkt Dispositions of Tenderness in the Coun­tenance of this fair Person, yet he dared not promise himself she could desire his Return; his Reason revolted against his Joy: How Unhappy a Wretch am I? said he, I Adore the most Amiable of all Women, and yet I dare not offer to please her! she has a Kindness for me, yet Honour and Friendship with-hold me from making the least Advantage of it. What shall I do then, O Heavens! What shall I do! I flatter'd my self, that Absence would Cure me: Alas! this is a Remedy which I have fruit­lesly tried; I have never cast mine Eyes on her Picture, but have found my self more in Love, and more Miserable than when I saw her every day. I must obey her, she commands my Return; she desires to see me, and she cannot be ignorant of my Passion: When I took my Leave of her, my Eyes decla­red to her the Secret of my Heart: And when I call to mind what I saw in hers, all my Reflections then are to no purpose; for I resolve rather to die at her Feet, than to live remote from her.

He parted without any delay, and without taking leave of his Friends. He left a Gentleman to Excuse him towards them, and to order his Affairs. He was in such great haste to see the Mar­chioness, that he used such Diligence to be with her, that no body but he could have done: In arriving at Cagliary, Capital of Sar­dagne, he understood that the Marquess and his Wife were at a stately Country-house, where the Vice-Roy was gone to give them a Visit, with all his Court. He learnt moreover, that the Mar­quess de Barbaran prepared for him a great Feast, where there were to be held Justs or Turnaments, after the Ancient Manner of the Mores: He was the Defendant, and was to maintain, That a Husband beloved, is Happier than a Lover.

Several Gentlemen that were not of this Opinion, were prepa­ring themselves to go and dispute the Prize, which the Marchioness, at the Vice-Queen's Intreaty, was to give to the Conquerour; 'Twas a Scarf embroidered with her own Hands, wrought with Cyphers: No one was to appear but maskt and disguised, to the end all might be freer and more gallant.

Don Lewis had a secret Despight, in comprehending the Mar­quess so well satisfied: He is belov'd, said he, I cannot but look on him as my Rival, and as an Happy Rival; but we must en­deavour to disturb his Happiness, in triumphing over his vain Glory. Having formed this Design, he would not appear in Town: he caus'd to be made a Suit of strip'd Green Satin, embroidered with Gold, and all his Liveries were of the same Colour, to de­note his new hopes.

When he entred into the Lists, every body had their Eyes on him; his Magnificence and his Air gave Emulation to the Cava­liers, and great Curiosities to the Ladies. The Marchioness felt a secret Emotion, of which she could not discover the Cause: He was placed very near the Balcony, where she sate with the Vice-Queen; but there was no Lady there which did not lose all her Lustre near that of the Marchioness; her youthful Air, which ex­ceeded not eighteen Years, her lovely white and red Cheeks, her Eyes so sweet and graceful, her Scarlet and little Mouth, agreea­ble Smiles, and her Shape, which surpast the Fairest, made her the Admiration of all the World.

Don Lewis was so ravish'd in seeing her so charming, and to ob­serve yet in her Countenance a languishing sorrowful Air, that he flattered himself to have therein a part; and this was the first Moment wherein he thought himself Happy. When his turn came, he ran against the Marquess, and smote him so dexterously, that he got the Advantage all along of him: so that in a word, he gain'd the Prize with a general Applause, and with every one's good-liking. He threw himself at the Marchioness's Feet, to re­ceive it at her Hands; he altered the Tone of his Voice, and speak­ing to her with his Mask on, low enough not to be heard but only by her: Divine Person, said he to her, be pleas'd to observe what Fortune decides in favour of Lovers. He dar'd not say more to her; and without knowing him, she gave him the Prize, with this natural Grace with which all her Actions were accompani­ed.

He suddenly withdrew himself, for fear of being known; for this might have been an occasion of Quarrel between the Marquess and him; and without doubt he would not have easily pardon'd the Victory he obtain'd over him. This oblig'd, him to keep himself still conceal'd for some Days. The Voice-Roy and his Lady return'd to Cagliary, and the Marquess and Marchioness accompanied them thither, with the whole Court.

Don Lewis then shew'd himself; he pretended he just then ar­riv'd, and made as if he knew not what had past in the Field. The Marquess de Barbaran was transported with Joy in seeing him; and Absence had not at all altered the Affection he had for this dear Relation. He had no difficult task to find a favoura­ble moment wherein to entertain his amiable Marchioness; he had as much liberty in their Lodgings as in his own; and you may well judge, Madam, that he forgot not to mention the Prize he had receiv'd from her fair Hands: How wretched am I, said he to her, that you did not know me? Alas, Madam, I flattered my self, that by some secret Pre-sentiments you would learn, [Page 29] that no one but I could sustain with such Passion the Cause of Lovers against Husbands. No my Lord, said she to him, with an Angry and Disdainful Air, to take away all Hope from him, I could never have imagin'd that you could have been Patron of so foul a Cause; and I could not have believ'd you could have taken such strong Engagements at Naples, that you should come as far as Sardagne to Triumph over a Friend who maintain'd my Interests as well as his own. I shall die with Regret, Madam, said Don Lewis, if I have displeas'd you in what I have done; and were you more favourably disposed, and I might dare to make you my Confident, it would be no hard matter for me to perswade you, that it is not at Naples I have left the Object of my Vows.

The Marchioness apprehending lest he should speak more than she was willing to hear, and appear livelily toucht with the Reproach she made him, she put on a more pleasing Countenance, and turn­ing the Conversation into a Tone of Raillery, answer'd him, He took too seriously what she had said to him. He dared not make use of this occasion to declare his Love to her; for though he lov'd her above all things, yet he respected her no less.

When he had left her, he began to blame himself for his Fearful­ness: Shall I, said he, always suffer without seeking any Re­medy! It was some time before he could meet with a favourable occasion, because the Marchioness studiously avoided him; but being come one Night where she was, he found her alone in an inward Room, lying on a Bed in a most lovely manner, and most becoming Ʋndress, her Hair being fastned with Knots of Diamonds, hung carelesly about her Breasts: The Trouble she felt in seeing Don Lewis, appear'd on her Countenance, and rendred her yet more lovely: He drew near her with an Awful and respectful Air, fell down on his Knees by her; he lookt on her for some time, not daring to speak but becoming a little more bold, If you consider, Madam, said he to her, the pitious Condition whereunto you have re­duced me, you will easily comprehend that it is no longer in my power to keep Silence: I could not avoid such inevitable Stroaks as you have given me; I have adored you as soon as I saw you: I have endeavour'd to Cure my self in flying from you; I have offered the greatest Violence to my self, in en­deavouring to master my Passion. You have recall'd me, Madam, from my Voluntary Exile, and I die a thousand times a Day, uncertain of my Destiny: If you be Cruel e­nough to refuse me your Pity, suffer at least, that having made known to you my Passion, I may die with Grief at your Feet. The Marchioness was some time without resolving to answer [Page 30] him; but at length, gaining Assurance, I acknowledge, said she, Don Lewis, that I am not wholly ignorant of one part of your Sentiments, but I was willing to perswade my self 'twas the Effects of an Innocent Affection: Make me not a Partner of your Crime; you commit one, when you betray the Friend­ship due to my Husband: But, alas, you will pay but too dearly for this; for I know that Duty for [...]ids you to Love me; and in Respect, it does not only forbid me to love you, but to fly from you: I will do it, Don Lewis, I will avoid you; and I do not know, whether I ought not to Hate you: But, alas, it seems impossible to me to do it. What do you then, Ma­dam, answer'd he, interrupting her, being full of Grief and Despair, when you pronounce the Sentence of my Death? You cannot Hate, me say you: Do you not Hate me, and do you not do me all the Mischief you are able, when you resolve to avoid me? Make an end, Madam, make an end, leave not your Venge­ance imperfect; sacrifice me to your Duty, and your Husband; for my Life cannot but be odious, if you take from me the Hopes of pleasing you. She lookt on him at this instant with Eyes full of Languishing: Don Lewis, said she to him, you re­proach me with what I would deserve. In ending these words, she arose, fearing greatly, lest her Affection should triumph over her Reason; and notwithstanding his endeavours to with-hold her, she past into a Chamber where her Women were.

She thought she had gained much on her self in forcing her way out of this Conversation, without answering so favourably as her Heart could have wisht; but Love is a Seducer, which must not be in any sort hearkened to, if one will not be totally overcome by him. From that day Don Lewis began to think himself Hap­py, though he wanted many things to compleat his Felicity. The Marchioness, in effect, had a Principle of Vertue, which opposed it self always with Success to the desires of her Lover.

He had no longer those Scruples of Friendship for the Marquess de Barbaran which had so greatly disturbed his Mind; Love had perfectly banisht Friendship; nay, he even secretly hated him.

In fine, Don Lewis flattering himself, that perhaps he might find a favourable moment to affect the Marchioness's Heart with some Pity; he carefully sought it; and to find it, one day when 'twas very hot, knowing that the Marchioness was wont to retire to Repose her self after Dinner, as it is customary, in that Coun­try, he came to her, doubting not but every body was asleep in the House.

She was in a Ground-Room which lookt into the Garden; all was fast and shut close, save a little Window, whereby he saw on her Bed [Page 31] this Charming Creature: She was in a profound Sleep, half un­drest; he had the time to discover such Beauties as still augment­ed the force of his Passion. He approacht so softly to her, that she did not awake: It was already some moments that he had lookt on her with all the Transports of a Man amazed, when seeing her naked Breasts, he could not forbear kissing them. She arose on a sudden; she had not her Eyes open; the Chamber was dark, and she could never have believ'd Don Lewis could have been so bold. I have already told you, Madam, that he resembled the Marquess de Barbaran; She did not doubt then but it was he, and calling him several times, her dear Marquess and Husband she tenderly embrac'd him. He well knew his Error; whatever Pleasure it procured him, he could have wished to have ow'd this only to his Mistress's Favours. But, O Heavens, how unfortu­nately it hapned! The Marquess came in this dangerous moment; and 'twas not without the greatest fury he saw the Liberty Don Lewis took with his Wife. At the noise he had made in entring, she had turn'd her Eyes towards the Door, and seeing her Husband enter, whom she thought she had already in her Arms, it is im­possible to represent her Affliction and Astonishment.

Don Lewis amaz'd at this Accident, flatter'd himself, that per­haps he was not known: He past immediately into the Gallery, and finding a Window was opened into the Garden, he threw himself out of it, and immediately past through a Back-door. The Mar­quess pursued him, without being able to overtake him: In return­ing the same way he came, he unhappily found the Marchioness's Picture. which Don Lewis had dropt as he ran; he immediately made most cruel Reflections hereupon: This Picture of his Wife, which Don Lewis had let fall, and the sight of her embracing him, all this made him no longer doubt of his Wives Falshood: I am be­tray'd, Cry'd he, by her whom I loved dearer than my own Life: Was there ever a more Unhappy Man in the World? In ending these Words, he returned to his Wives Chamber. She im­mediately threw her self at his Feet, and melting into Tears, would have justify'd her self, and make known to him her Innocency; but the Spirit of Jealousie had so fully possest him, that he vio­lently represt her: He harkned only to the Transports of his Rage and Despair, and turning away his Eyes, that he might not see so lovely an Object, he had the Barbarity to strike his Dagger into the Breast of the most Beautiful and most Vertuous Woman in the World. She offered her self to be slaughtered as an innocent Sacri­fice, and her Soul issued out in a stream of Blood.

O God, cryed I, O Imprudent Don Lewis! Why did you leave this Charming Lady to the Fury of an Amorous Husband, [Page 32] transported with Jealousie! You might have snatch'd her out of his cruel Hands. Alas, Madam, replied this Gentleman, he knew not what he did; for what would he have done at ano­ther time to have prevented such a Misfortune.

As soon as the unfortunate Marchioness had rendred her last Breath, her cruel Executioner shut her Apartment, took all the Money and Jewels he had, mounted on Horse-back, and fled with all the speed he could. Don Lewis restless, and more Amorous than ever, returned thither in the Evening, notwithstanding what­ever might befal him: He was surpriz'd when he was told the Marchioness was still asleep; he immediately went into the Garden, and entred into the Gallery, through the same Window which he had found open, and from thence came into the Chamber: 'Twas so dark, that he was fain to walk warily; when he felt some­thing which had like to have made him fall, he stooped down and found it was a dead Body; he uttered a great Shriek, and doubt­ing not but it was that of his dear Mistress, he sunk down with Grief: Some of the Marchioness's Women walking under the Win­dows of her apartment, heard Don-Lewis's Crys; they easily got up through the same Window, and entred the Room. What a sad Spectacle, what a lamentable sight was this? I cannot find Words to denote to you the Horror of this Spectacle, Don Lewis was no sooner come to himself, by the force of Remedies, but his Grief, Rage and Despair, broke out with such Violence, that it was im­possible to calm him; and I am perswaded he had not out-lived her whose loss he occasioned, if the desire of Vengeance had not re-ani­mated him.

He parted like one furious in search of the Marquess de Barba­ran; He sought him every-where without hearing any news of him; He ran over Italy, traverst Germany, came into Flanders, and past into France. He was told that the Marquess was at Valentia in Spain; he came there, and met not with him. In fine, three Years being past, without finding the means of sacrificing his Ene­my to his Mistress's Ghost, Divine Grace, which is irresistible, and particularly on great Souls, toucht his so efficatiously, that he immediately changed his Desire of Revenge into serious Desires of leaving the World, and minding only the fitting himself for ano­ther Life.

Being fill'd with this Spirit he return'd into Sardagnia: He sold all his Estate, which he distributed among some of his Friends, who with great Merit were yet very poor; and by this means be­came so poor himself, that he reduced himself to the begging of Alms.

He had heretofore seen, in going to Madrid, a place very fit to make an Hermitage, (it is towards Mount Dragon;) this Mountain is almost inaccessible, and you cannot pass to it but through an Overture, which is in the midst of a great Rock; it is stopt up when the Snow falls, and the Hermitage lies buried more than six Months under it. Don Lewis made one be built here, where he was wont to pass whole Years without seeing any one. He made such Provisions as were necessary, having good Books, and thus remain'd in this dismal Solitude; but this Year his Friends forced him hither, by reason of a great Sickness, which had like to have cost him his Life. It is four Years since he has led this Holy Spiritual Life, and so different from that to which he was born, that it is with great trouble he sees any of his Ac­quaintance.

As to the Marquess de Barbaran, he has wholly left the Isle of Sardagnia, where he has not the Liberty to return. I am in­form'd he is married again at Anvers, to a Widow of a Spaniard named Fonceca.

And it is he himself that has related to one of my Friends the Particularities of his Crime; and he is so furiously tortured with the remembrance of it, that he imagines he continually sees his Wife dying, and reproaching him with his Fury and Jealousie. In a word, he has contracted such a deep Melancholy, that his Death is thought by every one to be near, or at the least, the loss of his Sences.

The Gentleman here was silent; and I not being able to forbear weeping at so Tragical a Relation, Don Fernand de To­ledo, who had observ'd it, and would not take notice of it, for fear of interrupting the Relation, rally'd me about my Ten­derness, telling me how well he was pleased to find me so Com­passionate, and that I should not be long before I met with Ob­jects fit to exercise it on. I did not so much mind the return­ing an Answer to him, as the Thanking this Gentleman, who was pleas'd to entertain me with the Recital of so extraordinary an Adventure: I intreated him to make my Compliments to Don Lewis, and to give him from me two Pistols, seeing he lived on Alms. Don Fernand, and each of the Cavaliers, gave as much: Here is, said the Gentleman to us, wherewith to enrich the Poor of Victoria; for Don Lewis appropriates not such great Charities as these to himself. We told him, he was the Master, and might dispose of the Money as he pleased. But to re­turn to my Adventures:

Although I had a Pasport from the King of Spain, the best specified, and most general, as is possible, yet I was oblig'd to [Page 34] take a Billet from the Toll-House; for without this Precaution, all my Cloaths had been confiscated: To what purpose then is my Pasport? said I to them. To none at all, replied they. The Surveyers and Officers of the Customs would not so much as cast their Eyes on it; they told me, The King must come and assure them, that this Order was from him. It is to no purpose for any one to alledge his being a Stranger, and igno­rant of the Usages of the Country: For they drily answer, That the Stranger's Ignorance makes the Spaniard's Profit. The ill weather has kept me here two Days, during which I saw the Governess, and the Play. The principal Place of this Town is adorn'd with a very fair Fountain standing in the midst: it is incircled with the Town-House, the Prison, two Convents, and several well-built Houses: Here is a New Town and an Old one; every body forsakes this latter to dwell in the other. Here are very rich Merchants; their chief Trade is at St. Se­bastian or Bilbo; they send great store of Iron to Grenada, Estre­madour, Galicia, and other Parts of the Kingdom. I observ'd, that the great Streets are set with fine Trees, which are water­ed with Streams running by them. From Mount St. Adrian hither, it is seven Leagues. In fine, I am just setting out, and must end this long Letter; it is late, and I have spoke, to you so much of what I have seen, that I have said nothing of my Affections to you: Believe me, however, Dear Cosin, that I am, and ever shall be.

LETTER III.

MY Letters are so long, that it is hard to believe when I finish them, that I have any thing else more to tell you; yet, my dear Cosin, I never close any, but there remains still sufficient for another: When I were only to speak to you of my Friendship, this would be an inexhaustible Subject; you may make some Judgment of it from the Pleasure I find in obey­ing your Commands. You are desirous to know all the Particu­lars of my Voyage, I will therefore go on to relate them:

I set out very late from Victoria, by reason of my stay at the Governess's, whom I before mention'd: and we went to lie at [Page 35] Miranda; the Country is very pleasant as far as Avigny; we came afterwerds by a difficult Way to the Banks of the River Ʋrola, whose. Noise is the greater, in that 'tis full of Rocks, on which the Water dashes, beats up, and falls down, and forms natural Cascades in several places: We continu'd to as­cend the high Mountains of the Pyrenees, where we ran a thou­sand several Dangers: we saw the ancient Ruines of an old Castle, where Ghosts and Spirits have their Apartments, as well as in that of Quebara, it is near Gargason; and being to stop there to shew my Pasport, because here certain Customs are paid to the King, I learnt from the Alcade of the Borough, who drew near my Litter to talk with me, that it is the com­mon Report of the Country, That there were formerly a King and a Queen here, who had so fine and beautiful a Woman to their Daughter, that she was rather taken for a Goodness than a Mortal Creature: she was call'd Mira; and it is from her Name came the Mira of the Spaniards, which is to say, Look you; for as soon as ever she appear'd, all the People attentively beheld her; and cried out, Mira, Mira; and here's the Etymo­logy of a Word drawn far enough. This Princess was never seen by any Body who became not desperately in love with her; but her Disdainfulness and Indifference made all her Lovers pine away: The famous Basilisk never kill'd so many People as the Beautiful and Dreadful Mira; she thus depopulated her Fa­ther's Kingdom, and all the Countries thereabouts were full of the deceased and dying Lovers. After they had in vain Ad­drest themselves to her, they lastly applied themselves to Hea­ven, to demand Vengeance on her Cruelty: The Gods at length grew Angry, and the Goddesses were not much behind them in the Exercise of this Passion: so that to punish her, the Scourges of Heaven finish'd the Destruction of her Father's Kingdom: In this general Calamity he consulted the Oracle, which told him, That all these Miseries would not have an end, till Maria had expiated the Mischiefs which her Eyes had done: and that she must be gone: That Destiny would conduct her to the place where she was to lose her repose and liberty. The Princess obey'd, believing it impossible for her to be touch'd with Tenderness: She carried only her Nurse with her; she was clad like a simple Shepherdess, lest she should be taken notice of, whether at Sea or Land. She ran over a great Part of the World, committing every day two or three Dozen of Mur­thers; for her Beauty was not diminisht by the Fatigue of her Travels: She arriv'd at length near this old Castle, which be­long'd to a young Count, call'd Nios, endowed with a thousand [Page 36] Perfections, but extream Proud and Reserv'd: he spent his time in the Woods; as soon as ever he perceiv'd a Woman, he fled from her, and of all things he saw in the World, she was his greatest Aversion. The beautiful Mira was resting her self one day under the shade of some Trees, when Nios past by, cloathed with a Lyon's Skin, a Bow at his Girdle, and a Mace on his Shoulder; his Hair was all clotted together, and his Face be smear'd like a Chimney-Sweeper's, (this Circum­stance is observable) yet the Princess thought him the most handsome Man in the World; she ran after him as if she had been mad; and he ran from her as if he had been in the same condition: she lost the sight of him; she knew not where to find him: she is now in the greatast Sorrow, weeping Day and Night with her Nurse. Nios return'd to the Chase; she saw him again, and would have follow'd him: as soon as he per­ceiv'd her, he did as at first, and Mira betook her self again to her Lamentations; but her Passion giving her new strength, she out-ran him, stopt him, taking hold of his Locks, intreat­ing him to look on her, thinking this was enough to engage him: He cast his Eyes on her with as much Indifference as if she had been an ordinary Person. Never Woman was more surpriz'd; she would not leave him; she came maugre him to his Castle: where, as soon as she had entred, he there left her, and was no more seen. The poor Mira, being not to be comforted, died with Grief, And from that time you hear deep Sighs and Groans, which come from the Castle of Nios. The young Wenches of the Country are used to go there, and carry her little Presents of Fruits and Milk, which they set down at the Mouth of a Cave, where no body dare enter: they said, this was to comfort her; but this has been abolisht as superstitious. And though I believed not a word of whate­ever was told me at Garganson, in relation to Mira and Nios, yet I was pleas'd in the Recital of this Story, of which I omit a thousand Particulars, for fear of tiring you by its length. My Waiting-woman was so affected with this Relation, that she was for having us return back again, to set at the Mouth of the Cave some red Partridges, which my People had brought: she imagin'd the Princess's Ghost would be mightily comfort­ed in receiving this Testimony of our good Will; but for my part, I thought I should be more content than her, in having those Partridges for my Supper. We past the River of Ʋrola, on a great stone-Bridge, and having went over another, with difficulty enough, by reason of the melted Snow, we arriv'd at Miranda d' Ebro; this is a great Village, or a little Town: [Page 37] here is a large place adorn'd with a Fountain; the River Ebro, which is one of the most considerable of Spain, traverses it: You see on the Top of a Mountain the Castle, with several Towers; it appears to be of some strength; and there issues out so great a Stream from a Rock on which it is built, that it turns several Mills: I could not observe any thing else worth writing to you.

The three Knights I spake of to you, were arriv'd before me, and giv'n all requisite Orders for Supper; so we eat to­gether: And tho' the Night appear'd well advanced, because the Days are short in this Season, yet 'twas not late; so that these Gentlemen, who shew'd me great Respect and Civility, askt me, How I would pass the time? I proposed to them the playing at Ombre, and that I would go Halves with Don Fernand de Toledo. They accepted the Offer: Don Fernand de Cardonne said, He had rather Converse with me than Play: so the three others began, and I for some time gave my self over to the looking on them, with great Pleasure, for their Way is quite different from ours: They never utter a word; I do not say, to complain, (for this would be unworthy the Spanish Gravity) but to demand a Gano, or to cut higher, or to shew that one may take some other Advantage: In a word, they seem to be Statues, or Pieces of German Clock-work, never appearing transported with either good or bad Luck. Among other Discourse which I had with D. Fred. de Cardonne, he told me, There were two observable things in Catalonia, one of which is a Mountain of Salt, partly white as Snow, and the other part clearer and more transparent than Crystal: that there is Blue, Green, Violet, Orange, and a thousand different Colours, which yet loses its tincture when wetted; it continually forms it self, and grows there: and though commonly the places where Salt is to be found, are so barren, that you see not so much as an Herb, yet there are here Pine-Trees of great height, and excellent Vine-yards: When the Sun darts its Rays on this Mountain, it looks as if it wholly consisted of the most preci­ous Stones in the World: but the best of it is, that it yields a good Revenue.

The other Particular he mentioned to me, was of a Foun­tain, whose Water is very good, and of the same Colour as Claret: I have never heard any thing of this, said I to him, but one of my Relations, who has been in Catalonia, has assured me there is a Fountain near Balut, whose Water is as others are for Colour, and yet whatever you put therein, appears like Gold. I have seen it, Madam, continued Don Frederic; and I remember [Page 38] a Man that was very covetous, and more foolish, went thither every Day to put therein his Silver, hoping in time 'twould be chang'd into Gold: but he was so far from enriching himself that he was ruin'd; for some Peasants, more subtle and crafty than he, having perceived what he did, stood watching a little lower, and the Stream of the Water would now and then bring some Pieces to them. If you return into France by Catalonia, added he, you will see this Fountain, It is not that which can draw me thither, reply'd I, but the desire of passing by Montferat, wou'd make me undertake a longer Journey. It is situated, said he, near Barcelona, and is a place of great Devotion: It seems as if the Rock were sawed through the middle; the Church stands high, is small and obscure. By the help of Fourscore and Ten Lamps of Silver, you perceive the Image of the Virgin, which looks very duskish, and is held for Miraculous. The Altar cost Philip the Second thirty thousand Crowns; and here is every Day seen Pilgrims from all Parts of the World; this Holy Place abounds with Her­mitages, inhabited by Persons of great Devotion: These are com­monly Men of good Birth, who have not left the World till they have well tryed it, and who appear much taken with the Sweets of their Retirements, though the Place be dismal; and 'twould been impossible to have had Access to it, had not a Passage been cut through the Rocks. Yet you find here several agreeable Objects, a curious Prospect, various Springs, Gardens well drest by these Religioses own hands, and every where a certain Air of Solitude and Devotion, which mightily affects those who come there. We have another famous place of Devotion, added he, and that is Nuestra Senora del Pilar: it is at Saragossa, in a Chappel on a Pillar of Marble, where our Lady holds the Babe Jesus in her Arms. It is pretended, that the Virgin appeared on this same Pil­lar to St. James; and the Image is here worshipt with great Reve­rence. It cannot be well observ'd, because it stands so high, and in a very dark place; so that without the Flambeaux it could not be seen at all. Here are always Fifty Lamps burning; Gold and precious Stones shine here on all sides; and the Pilgrims come here in great Sholes. But yet, says he, I may truly say, in favour of Saragossa that 'tis one of the finest Towns you shall see; it is situa­ted along the Ebre, in a vast Field, is adorn'd with great Build­ings, rich Churches, a stately Bridge, fine open Places, and the most charming Women in the World, who love French, and will omit nothing to oblige you to speak well of 'em, if you pass by there. I told him, I had already heard several things spoken of them to their commendation: But continu'd I, this Country is very Barren, and the Souldiers can hardly subsist in it. In effect, re­plied [Page 39] he, whether the Air be bad, or that they want Necessaries, the Flemmings and Germans cannot live there? and if they do not die there, 'tis because they run away. The Spaniards and Neopolitans are more prone than they to desert; these last past through France, to return into their Country; the others Coast the Pyrences along Languedoc, and enter Castille by Navarre, or Biscaye. This is a Course which the old Souldiers fail not to steer; for the new-rais'd ones, they perish in Catalonia, being not accustomed there­to; and 'tis certain there's no place where War is more trouble­some to the King of Spain: He maintains his Forces here with great Charge, and the Advantage which the Enemy gains of him is not small; and I very well know they are more sensible at Ma­drid for the smallest Loss in Catalonia, than they would be for the greatest in Flanders, or Milan, or else-where. But at present, continues he, we are going to be more at our Ease than we have been, being expected at Court, that the Peace will be lasting, because they talk much of a Marriage which will make a new Al­liance; and the Marquess de Los Balbares, Penipotentiary at Nimiguen, has receiv'd Orders to pass speedily to France, to de­mand of that King, Mademoiselle d' Orleans; therefore it is not doubted but the Marriage will be concluded: But it is thought very strange, Don John of Austria should consent to this Marri­age. You will do me a singular Pleasure, said I, interrupting him, if you would inform me of some Particularities touching this Prince: It is natural for to have a Curiosity in relation to Persons of this Character; and when a body comes into a Court where one was never before, that I may not appear a Novice, I should have some previous Notices. He answered me, It would be a great satisfaction to him, if he could relate any thing might please me; and he began thus:

You will not, perhaps, Madam, think it amiss, that I begin at the Original of Things, and tell you, That this Prince was Son of one of the finest Women in Spain, named Maria Calderona; she was a Player; and the Duke de Medina de las Torres, became despe­rately in love with her: This Cavalier had so many Advantages above others, that Calderonna lov'd him no less than she was beloved by him. In the Heat of this Intrigue, Philip the Fourth saw her, and preferr'd her to one of the Queen's Maids of Honour, and who was so griev'd at this Change of the King, whom she really loved, and had a Son by, that she retired from the World, and betook her self to Los del Calsas Reales, where she put on the Religio's Habit. As for Calderonne, her inclination lying wholly towards the Duke de Medina, she would not hearken to the King, without the Duke would thereto consent: She spake to him of it, [Page 40] and offered to withdraw secretly where he would; but the Duke fearing to incur the King's Displeasure, answer'd her, He was re­solv'd to yield up to His Majesty a Treasure which he was not in a Capacity to contend for. She made him a thousand Reproaches for this; she call'd him Traytor to his Love, ingrateful towards his Mistress: And more-over, told him, That though he was so Happy as that he could dispose of his Heart as he pleased, yet she could not do the same; and therefore he must continue to visit her, or prepare to see her die with Despair. The Duke affected with so great a Passion, promised to feign a Journey to Andalousia, and to remain with her hid in a Closet: he effectually parted from the Court, and afterwards shut himself up (as it was agreed) what­ever Risque he ran by so imprudent Conduct. The King, in the mean time, was very Amorous, and remain'd very well satisfi'd: She had, during this, Don John d' Austria, and the Resemblance he had with the Duke de Medina de Las Torres, had made it be thought that he was his Son; but tho' the King had other Chil­dren, and particularly the Bishop of Malaga, good Fortune decided in his Favour, and he has been only acknowledg'd.

Don John's Friends say, That 'twas by reason of the Exchange which had been made of the Son of Calderonna, for the Son of Queen Elizabeth; and here's how they set forth this Change, which is a Story made on purpose to impose on the World, and which I believe has no ground of Truth: They pretend, the King being desperately in love with this Player, she became big with Child at the same time as the Queen; and seeing the King's Passion was so greatly towards her, that she might expect any thing, she so order­ed it, that she made him promise her, That if the Queen had a Son, and she likewise, he should put hers in his place: What will you lose by this, Sir? said she, Will it not be your Son that will still Reign, only with this difference, that loving me, as you say you do, you will love him likewise the better. She had Wit, and the King could deny her nothing; he consented, and in effect the Business was manag'd with that Address, that the Queen being brought to Bed of a Son, and Calderonna of another, the Exchange was made. He that should have Reign'd, and who bore the Name of Baltazar, died at the Age of fourteen Years: The King was told, 'twas with over-heating himself at Tennis; but the truth is, this Prince was suffered to keep bad Company, which procured him his Misfortunes; it is said likewise, That Don Pedro d' Arragon, his Governour, and Chief Gentleman of his Chamber, more contributed to this than any other, suffering him to bring into his Apartment a Woman he lov'd; after this he was taken with a violent Feaver, and conceal'd the Occasion: The [Page 41] Physicians, who were ignorant of it, thought to ease him by frequent Bleedings, which put an end to what strength he had; and by this means they ended his Life. The King knowing, but too late, what had hapn'd, banisht Don Pedro for not hindring this Excess, or for not having timely discover'd it.

In the mean time Don John of Austria, who was brought up as the Natural Son, chang'd not his Condition, though this ought to have been, had he been indeed the lawful Son; yet notwithstand­ing this, his Creatures affirm, He so exactly resembles Q. Eliza­beth, that she needs no other Picture of her Likeness. And this Opinion fails not of gaining Belief with the People, who run vio­lently after Novelties, and who so passionately loved this great Queen, that they bewail her still as if she was but now deceas'd. It is true, that if Don John of Austria would make his Advan­tage of the favourable Dispositions of the People, he has met with several Opportunities of extending his Fortune very far; but his only Aim is to serve the King, and to keep his Subjects in those Sentiments of Fidelity they ought to have for him.

To return to Calderonna: The King surprised one day the Duke de Medina with her, and in the excess of his Rage, he ran to him with his Poynard in his Hand; he was about to kill him, when this Woman placed her self between, telling him, He might strike her if he would. Having the most extream Passion for her, he could not but Pardon him, contenting himself only with banish­ing him: But understanding she continu'd to love him, and write to him, he studied only how to get a new Passion; when he had one strong enough not to apprehend the Charms of Calderonna, he sent word to her to retire into a Monastery, as is customary when the King forsakes his Mistress. She put it not off, writing a Letter to the Duke, to bid him Adieu: And she receiv'd the Veil of a Religio from the Hand of the Apostolick Nuncio, who became since Innocent X. It is very likely the King believ'd Don John was his real Son, seeing he loved him so dearly: One thing will appear to you very singular, which is, that a King of Spain having Natural Sons owned by him, they never entred Madrid during his Life: So Don John was brought up at Ocanna, which is some Leagues distant from it. The King, his Father, came oft thither, and he made him come even to the Gates of the Town, where he went to meet him. This Custom comes from that the Grandees of Spain dispute the Rank which these Princes would hold. Don John, before he went into Catalonia, remain'd commonly at Buen Retiro, which is a Royal Seat, at one of the farthest parts of Madrid, a little without the Gate: And he shew'd himself so little, that he was never seen at any Publick [Page 42] Feast during the Life of the late King: but since, Times have chang'd, and his Fortunes stand on a different bottom.

Whilst the Queen, Maria Ann of Austria, Sister to the Empe­rour, and the King's Mother, Govern'd Spain; and her Son was not yet of Age to hold the Reigns of the State. She would have al­ways Don John keep from the Court; and more-over, found her self so capable of Governing, that she had a mind to ease her Son for a long time of the Burden of Ruling. She was not troubled to see him ignorant of whatever might give a desire of Reigning: but though she brought the greatest Precautions, to hinder him from feeling he was under too strict a Tutelage, and suffered no Persons to come near him, but those she was well assured of; yet this hindred not but some of the King's Faithful Servants hazarded themselves, by giving him to understand what he might do for his Liberty. He follow'd the Advice was given him; and in fine, having taken Measures accordingly, he stole away one Night, and went to Buen Retiro. He as soon sent from thence an Order to the Queen his Mother, not to stir out of the Palace.

Don John is of a middle Stature, well shaped, Black, and lively Eyes, and a most Manly Countenance. He is Polite, Gene­rous, and very Brave. He is ignorant of nothing befitting his Birth, being well-verst in all Arts and Sciences. He writes and speaks very well five Languages, and understands yet more. He has for a long time studied Judicial Astrology. There is no In­strument which he cannot make, and use with the best Masters. He works on all kind of Mechanicks, makes Arms, and paints finely. He took a great Pleasure in the Mathematicks; but be­ing charg'd with the Government of the State, he has been oblig'd to lay aside all other Employments.

He came to Buen-Retiro in the beginning of the Year 1677. and as soon as he was there, he sent the Queen-Mother to Toledo, because she had declared against him, and hindred his return to the King. Don John had an extream Joy in receiving from the King's own Hand an Order to take Care of Every thing, and to manage the Affairs of the Kingdom: And 'twas not without occa­sion he discharg'd himself on him, seeing he then was ignorant of the Art of Reigning. It was alledg'd for a Reason of his slow Education, That the King his Father was dying when he gave him Life: That when he came into the World, they were fain to put him in a Box of Cotten, being so tender and small, that he could not be swadled: That he was brought up in the Arms, and on the Knees of the Ladies of the Palace, till he was Ten Years old, with­out putting his Foot once all this while on the Ground to walk: That in the Sequel the Queen his Mother, who was engaged by [Page 43] all the Ties of Natural Duty to preserve this only Heir of the Spa­nish Branch, fearing to lose him, dared not let him study, lest by two great an Application he should lose his Health, which in truth was very unsound: And 'twas observ'd, that the great Number of Women, with whom the King always was, and who too sharply reprehended him for his Faults which he committed, had inspired him with such a great Aversion to them, that as soon as ever he had notice a Lady staid for him in any place he was to pass, he stole another way, or kept himself shut up all day in his Chamber. The Marchioness de Luz Veles, who was his Governess, told me, she waited for an Opportunity full six Months to speak with him, and when Chance had brought them vnavoidably to him, he took, their Requests from their Hands, but turn'd his Head another way, for fear he should see them. His Health is since so increased, that his Marriage with the Arch-Dutchess, the Emperor's Daughter, having been broke off by Don John, by reason 'twas the Queen-Mothers Project, he has desired to marry Mademoiselled' Orleans. The Circumstances of the Peace which are lately concluded at Ni­miguen, made him cast his Eyes towards this Princess, with whose excellent Qualities, Madam, you are better acquainted than I.

It is hard to believe, that having Dispositions so far from Gal­lantry, he should become so suddenly and vehemently in love with the Queen, as he became on the only Rehearsal of her good Quali­ties, and at the sight of her Picture in Minature, which was shew'd him. He never lets it go out of his Hand; he always holds it to his Heart; He Dialogues with it so prettily, as asto­nishes all the Courtiers; for he speaks a Language he never spoke: His Passion for the Princess furnishes him with a thousand Thoughts, which he dares not entrust any body with. He thinks no body makes haste enough; and therefore sends fresh Curriers every day to car­ry his Billets doux, and bring hack News of her.

When you come to Madrid, added he, you will hear, Madam, several Particulars which have without doubt hapned since I was there, and which will perhaps more satisfie your Curiosity than what I have related to you. I am very much oblig'd to you, answered I, for your Civilities; but do me the Favour to ob­lige me farther, in giving me the true Character of the Spa­niards: You know them, and I am perswaded nothing has escap'd your Enquiries; You speaking to me without Passion and Interest, I may reckon my self sure of what you tell me. Why believe you, Madam, replied he smiling, that I shall speak to you more sincerely than another? There are Reasons which may render me suspected: They are my Masters; I must manage them; [Page 44] And if I be not Politick enough to do it, the Vexation of being con­strained to obey them, would tempt me to entertain Notions in their Respect contrary to Truth. However it be, said I, inter­rupting him, pray tell me what you know of them.

The Spaniards, said he, have always past for Fierce and Glo­rious: This Glory is mixt with Gravity; and they carry it so far, that one may call it an extravagant Pride: They are Brave, with­out being Rash; yet they are accused for not being daring enough; They are Cholerick, Revengeful, without shewing any Transport, Liberal without Ostentation, Sober in their Diet, very Presumtu­ous in Prosperity, too Rampant in Adversity: They Idolize Women; they are so prepossest in their Favour, that they shew no Discretion in the Choice of their Wives: They are Patient to Excess, Obsti­nate, Idle, Singular, Philosophisers: And as to the rest, Men of Honour, keeping their Words, tho' it cost 'em their Lives. They have a great deal of Wit and Vivacity, easily comprehend, ex­plain themselves in the same manner, and in few Words; They are Prudent, Jealous without measure, Disinterested, bad Oeconomists, Close, Superstitious, great Catholicks, at least in appearance: They are good Poets, and write Verses with great Facility. They would be capable of Nobler Sciences, would they vouchsafe to apply themselves thereto.

They have a Greatness of Soul, Elevated Wit, Constancy, a Na­tural Seriousness, and a Respect for Ladies, as is not seen else­where: They have a Set-Behaviour, full of Affectation, intoxica­ted with their own Merit, hardly ever in this Particular doing Right to that of others. Their Bravery consists in standing Vali­antly on the Defensive Part, without giving Ground, and without dreading Danger; but they love not to seek it, which proceeds from their great Judgment: They discern Danger, and avoid it. Their greatest Defect, in my Opinion, is the Passion of Revenge and the Means they use for this: Their Maxims hereupon are abso­lutely opposite to Christianity and Honour: When they have receiv'd an Affront, they make him be Assassinated who has offered it. They are not contented with this; for they cause them to be Assassinated likewise whom they have offended, in the Apprehention of being prevented, knowing well, that if they do not kill, they shall be kill'd themselves. They pretend to justifie themselves herein, when they say, That their Enemy having took the first Advantage, they ought to secure themselves of the secend: That should they fail herein, they would wrong their Reputation: That you must not fight with a Man that has insulted over you, but put your self in a Condition to punish him, without running half the Danger. It is true, that Impunity Authorises this Conduct; for the Priviledge [Page 45] of Churches and Convents in Spain, is to give an assured Retreat to Criminals; And as near as they can, they commit these Vil­lanies hard by a Sanctuary, no have the less way to an Altar; Which you see oft embraced by a Villain, with his Poynard reeking in his Hand, and be-smeared with the Blood of the Murther which he has committed.

As to their Persons, they are very lean, little, fine shape, come­ly Head, good Faces, fine Eyes, well-set Teeth, yellow and duskish Complexion; they will have one walk slowly, commend big Legs, and a little Foot, Shooes without Heels, parting the Hair on both sides, being strait cut, and kept behind their Ears with a great Two-handed Hat, an Habit always Black, instead of a Shirt, Taffity Sleeves, or black Tabby, a Sword of a strange length, with a black Freize Cloak over all this, very strait Breeches, hanging Sleeves, and a Poynard. All this must so dis-figure a Man, let him be otherwise never so well-shaped, that they seem to affect a Garb the most disagreeable; And ones Eyes cannot with any Com­placency accustom themselves to this fight.

Don Frederick would have continued on his Discourse, and I had so much pleasure in hearing him, that I would not have interrupted him; but he broke off himself, having observ'd that the Play was at an end, and con­sidering, that we were to set out early next Morning, he thought I might be desirous of retiring; he therefore with the other Gentlemen, bad me good Night. I rose in effect very soon next Morning, because 'twas a great Journey to Birbiesca, where we intended to lie. We follow'd the River to avoid the Mountains, and past at Oron, a great River, which falls into the Ehre. We a while after entred into so strait a Way, that our Litters could scarce pass: We as­cended along, a very strait Coast to Pancorvo, whose Castle I saw standing on a rais'd Ground, not far distant: We tra­verst a great Plain; and this was a Novelty to us, to see an even Country: This here is surrounded with several Moun­tains, which seem linkt together as a Chain, and especially those of Occa: We must again pass over a little River, before we can come to Birbiesca: This is only a Borough, which has nothing remarkable but its Colledge, and some few pleasant Gardens along the Water. But I may say, we came thither in worse Weather than any we had yet: I was so tired, that as soon as I arriv'd I went to Bed: so that I saw not Don Fernand de Toledo, and the other Gentlemen, till the next Day, at Castel de Peones. But I should tell you how one is serv'd in these Inns, they being all alike: When you come into one of [Page 46] them, wearied and tired, roasted by the heat of the Sun, or frozen by the Snows (for there is seldom any Temperament be­tween these Two Extreams), you see neither Pot on the Fire, nor Plates wash'd: You enter into the Stable, and from thence to your Chamber; this Stable is ordinarily full of Mules and Muletteers, who make use of their Mules Saddles for Pillows in the night, and in the day-time they serve 'em for Tables: They eat very friendly with their Mules, and are very good Company together.

The Stair-Case by which you go up is very strait, and does rather resemble a sorry Ladder: La Sennoro de la Casa receives you with her Gown tuckt up, and her dangling Sleeves; she takes time to put on her Sunday-Cloathes, whilst you get out of your Litter: and she never omits this; for they are all very Poor and Vain Glorious. You are shewed a Chamber, whose Walls are white enough, hung with a thousand little scurvy Pictures of Saints; the Beds are without Curtains, the Co­vertures of Cotton, the Sheets as large as Napkins, and the Napkins like Pocket-hankerchiefs; and you must be in some considerable Town to find four or five of them; for in other places there are none, no more than there are Forks: They have only a Cup in the House; and if the Mule-Drivers get first hold of it, which commonly happens, if they please, (for they are serv'd with more Respect than those whom they bring) you must stay patiently till they have done with it, or drink out of an Earthen Pitcher. It is impossible to warm one at the Kitchin-fire, without being choaked, for they have no Chimneys; and 'tis the same in all the Houses on the Road; there is an Hole made in the top of the Ceiling, and the Smoak goes out thence; the Fire is in the midst of the Kitchin: They put what you would have roasted on Tiles, and when 'tis well gril'd on one side, they turn the other: when 'tis gross Meat, they fasten it to a String, and so let it hang on the Fire, and turn it with their Hands; so that the Smoak makes it so black, that it would turn ones Stomach to look on it.

I think there cannot be a better Representation of Hell than these sort of Kitchins, and the Persons in them; for not to speak of this horrible Smoak, which blinds and choaks one, they are a Dozen of Men, and as many Women, blacker than Devils, nasty and stinking like Swine, and clad like Beggars. There are always some of 'em impudently grating on a sorry Guiter, and singing like a Cat a roasting. The Women have all of 'em their Hair about their Ears, and you would take 'em for Bedlamites; they have Glass Necklaces, which hang twisted [Page 47] about their Necks like Ropes of Onions, but however serve to cover the Nastiness of their Skin. They are as great Thieves as any are in Jayls, and they are urgent to serve you only to have an opportunity to steal something of you, though it be but a Pin.

Before all things, the Mistress of the House brings you her little Children, who are bare-headed in the midst of Winter, though but of a Day old: she makes 'em touch your Cloaths, she rubs their Eyes with them, their Cheeks, Throat, and Hands. This seems as if one was become a Relick, and could heal all Diseases. These Ceremonies over, you are askt, If you will eat any thing; and though at Mid-night, you must send to the Butchery, the Market, the Tavern, the Bakers; in fine, to all parts of the Town, to gather wherewith to make a sorry Meal. For though the Mutton here be very tender, their way of frying it with Oyl, is not to every Bodies Relish. Here are great store of Partridges, and those very large; they are not very fat, but dry; and to make 'em drier, they roast 'em to a Coal. The Pidgeons here are excellent; and in seve-places here is good Fish, especially Bessugosses, which have the taste of a Trout, and of which they make Pasties, which would be good, were they not stuff'd with Garlick, Saffron, and Pep­per. Their Bread is white enough, and sweet, that one would think it made up with Sugar; but it is ill wrought, and so lit­tle baked, that it is as heavy as Lead in the Stomach: it has the shape of a flat Cake, and is not much thicker than one's Finger. The Wine is good, and Fruits in their season, especially Grapes, which are very large, and of delicate taste. You may reckon your self certain of a good Desart. You have Sallads here of such good Lettice as the World cannot afford better.

Do not think (Dear Cosin) 'tis sufficient to say, Go fetch such things, to have them; for not very seldom you can meet with nothing: But supposing you find what you would have, you must give out your Money before-hand: so that your Meat is paid for before you have begun to eat it; for the Master of the Inn is only allowed to Lodge you: they alledge for a Rea­son, That it is not just one only Person should go away with all the Profit from Travellers, it being better the Money should be dispersed.

You enter not any Inn to Dine, but carry your Provision with you, and stop at the Bank of some River, where the Mule-Drivers bate their Mules; and this is with Oats or Barley, with chopt Straw, which they carry with them in great Sacks; for as to Hay they give them 'em none. It is not allow'd a [Page 48] Woman to tarry above two Days in an Inn on the Road, unless she can offer good Reasons. And here's enough in relation to Inns, and the Manner of your Treatment therein.

After Supper these Gentlemen play'd at Ombre, and I not being strong enough to play against them, I went shares with Don Frederic de Cardonne; and Don Fernand drew near the Fire­side to me; he told me, He could, have wisht my time would permit me to pass by Vailladolid; that it is the most pleasant Town of Old Castille, it having been for a great while the Man­sion of the Kings of Spain; and that they have a Palace there fit for them. That as to him, he had Relations there would be infinitely pleased to entertain me; and would shew me the Dominicans Church, which the Dukes of Lerma have founded; that it was very Stately, and the Portal of singular Beauty, by means of the Figures and Embossed Work, which enrich it: That in the Colledge of the same Convent the French see there, with great satisfaction, all the Walls full of Flower de Luces; it being said, a Bishop who defended on the King of France, had been at the Charge of Painting them. He added, They would have carried me to the Religioses of St. Claire, to shew me in the Choire of their Church, the Tomb of a Castillan Knight, whence 'tis said, issues out Accents and Groans every time any of his Family are near their Deaths. I smiled at this, as being doubtful of the Truth of such kind of Relations: You give not Credit to what I say, continued he, neither would I engage for the Truth of it, though all the Country thereabouts are so fully perswaded of it, that you would be suspected for an Heretick should you question it. But it is certain there is a Bell in Arragon, in a small Town call'd Villilla, on the Ebre, which is about fifty Foot compass, and it happens sometimes to sound of it self, it being not perceiveable to be agitated by any Wounds or Earthquakes: In a word, by no visible thing. It first Tolls, and afterwards, by intervals, Rings, out, as well in the Day as the Night: When it is heard, it is not doubted but it denounces some sad Accident; which is what hapned in 1601, on Thursday the 13th of June, till Saturday the 15th of the same Month; it ceased then to Ring, but it began again on Corpus Christi, when they were on the point of making the Procession. It was heard likewise when Alphonsus the Fifth, K. of Arragon, went into Italy to take Possession of the Kingdom of Naples. It was hard at the Death of Charles the Fifth. It denoted the Departure of Don Sebastion, King of Portugal, for Africk. The Extremity of King Philip the Second: and the Decease of his last Wife [Page 49] Q. Ann. You would have me to believe you, Don Fernand, said I; Perhaps I shall seem too obstinate in standing out all this while, but you will agree there are Matters one may lawfully doubt of. Nay, Madam, replied he, with a pleasant Air, I tell you nothing but what I can have a thousand Wit­nesses to justifie; but perhaps you will sooner believe Don Esteve de Carvajal in a thing as extraordinary in his Country. He at the same time call'd to him, demanding of him, Whe­ther 'twere not true, that there is in the Convent of Cordoüa a Clock which fails not to Ring every time a Religious is to die; so that the time is known to a Day? Don Esteve con­firm'd what Don Fernand said: and though I remain'd not ab­solutely convinc'd, yet I made a shew as if I was.

You pass so quickly through Old Castille, continued Don Fer­nand, that you will not have time to see what's most remar­kable: The Picture of the Blessed Virgin is talkt of far and near, which was found miraculously stampt on a Rock; it be­longs to the Religio's Augustines d' Avila, and several Persons go there out of Devotion; but one has no less Curiosity to see certain Mines of Salt, which are near there, in a Village call'd Mengraville; you defend above two hundred Steps un­der Ground, and then enter into a vast Cavern form'd by Nature, whose Top, or Roof, is upheld by one only Pillar of Chrystalin Salt, of astonishing Largeness and Colour. Near this place, in the Town of Soria, you see a great Bridge with­out a River, and a great River without a Bridge, the River being forc'd out of its place by an Earthquake.

But if you go as far as Medina del Campo, added he, I am sure the Inhabitants will give you a welcome Entrance, only because you are of the French Nation, whom they much affect, to distinguish themselves hereby from the Sentiments of the other Castillians: Their Town is so priviledg'd, that the K. of Spain has not the Power to create any Officers, nor the Pope to confer Benefices: this Right belongs to the Towns­men, and they often fall together by the Ears, in the chusing of their Magistrates and Ecclesiasticks.

One of the Rarities of this Country is the Aquaduct of Sego­via, which is five Leagues in length; it has above two hun­dred Arches of extraordinary heighth, tho' in several places there are two standing one on another; and 'tis all built on Free Stone, there having been no Mortar, or any Cement to joyn them: This is lookt on as one of the Romans Works, or at least as worthy to be so. The River which is at the end of the Town surrounds the Castle, and serves it for a Ditch; [Page 50] it is built on a Rock. Among several things remarkable, you see the Effigies of the Kings of Spain, who have Reign'd for several Years: And there is no Town but Segovia and Seville where Money is Coyned, and the Pieces of Eight which are made at the former Places are held to be the best; and this is by means of the River which turns certain Mills that stamp the Money. Here are likewise most curious Walks along a Meadow planted with Elm Trees, whose Leaves are so thick and large, that the greatest Heats of the Sun cannot pierce them. I want not Curiosity, said I to him, for all things which deserve it; but I at present want Time to see them: However, I should be very glad to arrive timely at Burgos, to view the Town. Which is to say, Madam, replied Don Fer­nand, we must lose your Company, and let you retire.

He gave notice thereof to the other Gentlemen, who gave over their Play, and we thus separated.

I rose this Morning before Day; and I end this Letter at Burgos, where I now arrived: Thus, Dear Cosin, I shall send you nothing of this Day, but shall take the first occasion to ac­quaint you with what befals me.

LETTER. IV.

WE could sensibly perceive in arriving at Burgos, that this Town is colder than any of those we past; and 'tis like­wise said, you have none of those excessive Heats which are intollerable in other Parts of Spain: The Town stands where you descend the Mountain, and reaches to the Plain as far as the River, which washes the foot of the Wall: the Streets are very strait and even: the Castle is not great, but very strong, and is seen on the top of the Mountain: A little lower is the Tri­umphant Arch of Fernando Gonsales, which the Curious do much admire. This Town was the first that was conquer'd from the Mores; and the Kings of Spain have long resided here; 'tis the Capital of Old Castille; it holds the first Rank in the two States of the two Castilles, although Toledo disputes it with her: You see her fine Buildings; and Velascoe's Palace is very stately. Here are in all the broad Streets and spacious [Page 51] Places, Fountains, with Statues, some of which are good Pieces; but the finest sight is the Cathedral, which is so large, that Mass is said in five several places of it, without any di­sturbance to each other: the Architecture is so exquisitely wrought, that it may pass among the Gothick Buildings for a Master-Piece of Art: and this is so much the more remarkable, in that they build very sorrily in Spain: in some places this is so through Poverty, and in others want of Stone and Lime: I am told, that even at Madrid you see Houses of Earth, and the finest are made with Brick, cemented with the same, for want of Lime. To pass from the Town to the Suburbs of Bega, you go over three Stone Bridges: the Gate which answers that of Santa Maria, stands high, with the Image of the Virgin upon it: this Suburb contains the greatest part of the Convents and Hospitals; there is a great one founded by Philip the Se­cond, to receive the Pilgrims which go to St. James, and which entertains them for a Day. The Abbey of Miile Flores, whose Building is very stately, is not far distant. You see here in this Suburb several Gardens which are watered with Fountains and pleasant Springs; the River serves for a Chan­nel: And you find in a great Park inclosed with Walls, plea­sant Walks at all times of the Year.

I would have seen the Crucifix in the Augustines Convent; it is placed in a Chappel of the Cloyster, large and dark enough, so that you could hardly discern it, were it not for the Lamps, which are continually burning, they'r above an hundred; some are of Gold, and others of Silver, of so extraordinary a size, that they cover all the Vault of this Chappel: there are sixty Silver Candlesticks of a length, exceeding the tallest Man, and so heavy that two Men cannot lift 'em: they stand on the ground on both sides of the Altar; those which are upon it are of Massy Gold: You see between 'em two Crosses of the same, set out with Precious Stones, and Crowns hanging over the Altar, adorn'd with Pearls and Diamonds of great Lustre; The Chappel is hung with Tapistry, wrought with Gold; it is so laden with rich Gifts, that there's hardly room to put 'em in, so that part of 'em are kept in the Treasury.

The Holy Crucifix stands on the Altar, near the natural big­ness, it is covered with three Curtains one on another, all embrodered with Pearls and Diamonds: When they open them, which is not done without great Ceremony, and for Persons of Quality, several Bells are rung, every one falls on his Knees: and it must be granted, that this place and sight strikes one with an Awful Regard: The Crucifix is of Carv'd [Page 52] Work, and cannot be better made; its Carnation is very na­tural; it is covered from the Breasts to the Feet with a fine Linnen, in several Foulds or Pleats, which makes it look like a loose Jerkin, which in my Opinion, is not over-agreea­ble.

It is commonly held, that Nicodemus made it; but those who are for making every thing Miraculous, will have it brought down from Heaven, they know not how nor when. I was told, certain Monks of this Town had once stole it, and con­vey'd it away; but it took a convenient time to give 'em the slip, and was found the next Morning in the Chappel, in its usual place: These honest People being enraged, that it should serve 'em such a Trick, mustered up their Forces, and violently laid Hands on't the second time, but to as little purpose; for 'twould by no means stay with 'em: However, it works Mira­cles, and is one of the chief Objects of Devotion in Spain: The Religious tell you, it sweats every Friday.

I was going into my Inn, when we saw the Sieur de Car­donne's Valet de Chambre, running as fast as he could after us; he was booted, and three Friers scowring after him: I was o­ver-rash in my Judgment; for I could not but think he had stole something in this rich Chappel, and was taken in the Fact; but his Master, who was with me, having demanded of him, What put him on such full speed; He answer'd, He went into the Chappel of the Holy Crucifix with his Spurs on, and the Fryers had kept him in custody, to get Money of him, but that he was gotten out of their Clutches, but they were now upon the Hunt for him. They make it a Forfeit, as well as others, for a Man to go with Spurs into these Holy Places.

The Town is not very great; it is adorned with a spacious Place; here are high Pillars which bear up very fine Lodgings. The Bull-Feasts are kept here; for the People are much delight­ed with this sort of Divertisement. There is also a very well-built Bridge, long and large: the River which passes under it bathes a Meadow, on the Bank of which you see Allies of Trees, which form a most delicious Walk. Trade was hereto­fore considerable, but it is of late much diminisht. The best Castillian is here spoken; and the Men are naturally Souldi­ers, so that when the King has need of them, he finds here great Numbers, and better Men than elsewhere.

After Supper our Company set to Play, as heretofore: Don Sancho Sanniento was for yielding his place to any one, pretend­ing 'twas his Right to entertain me this Evening. I knew he had lately return'd from Sicily; I askt him, whether he had [Page 53] been one of those who had help'd to Chastize those Rebellious People? [Alas, Madam, said he, the Marquess de Las Navas was sufficient to punish them beyond what their Crime de­serv'd: I was at Naples, in the design to pass into Flanders, where I have Relations of the same Name. The Marquess de Los Veles, Vice-Roy of Naples, engaged me to leave my first Project, and embark my self with the Marquess de Las Navas, whom the King sent into Sicily: We set Sail in two Vessels of Majorca, and arriv'd at Messina the sixth of January. Having sent no notice of his coming, and no body expecting it, he was not receiv'd with the Honours paid commonly to the Vice-Roys: But in truth, his Intentions were so cruel against these poor People, that his Entrance should have been made in Tears.

Scarcely was he arriv'd, but he clapt up the two Sheriffs in Prison, named Vicenzo Zuffo, and Don Diego: He put Spaniards in their Places; he rigorously abolisht the Colledge of Knights of the Star; and began to execute the Orders which Gonzaga had long receiv'd, and which he had eluded through Favour or Weakness. He immediately publisht an Order, by which the King chang'd all the Form of Government of Messina, depriv'd the Town of its Revenues, forbad its bearing for the future the Glorious Title of Exemplary, dissolv'd the Senate, and put into the place of six Sheriffs, six Officers, two of which should be Spaniards; that these Officers should not for the future appear in Publick with their Formalities; that they should no more be preceded by Drums and Trumpets, ride no more together in a Coach with four Horses, as they were wont; that they should fit henceforward on a plain Bench; should have no more Incense offered 'em in the Churches; go cloath'd after the Spanish Fashion; should Assemble on Publick Affairs in a Chamber of the Vice-Roy's Palace; and have no longer any Jurisdiction on the Champian Country.

Every one was seized with such Consternation, as if he had been Thunder-struck; but their Sorrow was much increased on the fifth of the same Month, when the Camp Master-Gene­ral went to the Town-house, and seized all their Charters, and Original Copies of their Priviledges, and made 'em be burnt publickly by the Hands of the common Hang-man. The Prince de Condro was afterwards apprehended, to the great grief of his Family, but particularly the Princess Elenora, his Sister, whose Tears were not shed alone: this Princess is not above Eighteen; her Beauty and Wit are miraculous, which astonish those about her. Don Sancho's Eyes grew red at the [Page 54] remembrance of this Princess, and I plainly perceiv'd Pity had not all the share in what he said; yet he continued on his Discourse to me of Messina.

The Vice-Roy, added he, publisht an Order, by which all the Citizens were enjoyn'd, under penalty of ten Years Impri­sonment, and five thousand Crowns Fine, to bring their Arms into his Palace. He at the same time caus'd the great Bell in the Town-house to be taken down, and beaten to pieces in their sight: He ordered all the Bells in the Cathedral to be melted, to make a Statue of the King of Spain. And the Prince of Condro's Children were taken into Custody: But their Fear increased, when the Vice-Roy ordered D. V. Zuffo's Head to be cut off. This Example of Severity Alarum'd all the People; and what appear'd most terrible, was, That in the late Trou­bles, some Families of Messinois having withdrawn themselves into several Parts, the Marquess de Liche, the Spanish Embassa­dor at Rome, advised them, as a Friend, to return into their own Country, assuring them all was Quier, and that a General Pardon was already publisht; and for their greater assurance, gave them Pastports. These poor People (who had not taken up Arms, and being not of the number of the Revolters, know­ing their Innocency, could never have imagin'd they should have been treated as Criminals] return'd to Messina; where they had scarcely landed, but the Joy they had of seeing them­selves in their Native Country, and in the midst, of their Friends, was sadly disturb'd, when they were seised on, and the next Morning, without any Quarter, or regard to Sex or Age, by the Vice-Roy's Order, all hang'd. He afterwards, sent to demolish the great Tower of Palermo; and the princi­pal Citizens of it, remonstrating against the excessive Impo­sitions on Corn, Silks, and other Commodities, the Marquess de las Navas sent them all to the Gallies, without being mo­ved by the Tears of their Wives, and the need so many poor Children might have of their Fathers.

I must acknowledge, continued Don Sancho, that my Nature is so averse to the Rigors every day exercis'd on these poor People, that I could not for all the World remain any longer at Messina. The Marquess de las Navas was for sending to Ma­drid, to inform the King of what he had done. I intreated him to charge me with this Commission; and in effect he consented, and gave me his Letters, which I have delivered to the King at Madrid; and at the same time my Intercessions for the Prince de Condro: And I presume my good Offices will not be wholly useless to him. I am perswaded, said I to him, [Page 55] this was the principal Motive of your Journey: I am no pry­ing body, but methinks you are greatly concern'd for the In­terests of this Family. It's true, Madam, continued he, the In­justice done this Unfortunate Prince does sensibly affect me: Were he not Brother to the Princess Eleonora, said I to him, perhaps you would not so much lay it to heart. But no more of this; I perceive this Remembrance afflicts you. Pray let me rather hear from you what is most remarkable in your Country. Ah! Madam, cried he, you insult over me; for you must needs know, that Galicia is so poor and mean a Countrey that there's no place for bragging; not but that the Town of St. James de Compostella is considerable enough: it is the Capi­tal of the Province, and scarce one in Spain that's superiour to it in Riches and Greatness: Its Archbishoprick is worth Seventy Thousand Crowns a Year, and the Chapter has as much; It stands in an agreeable Plain, surrounded with little Hills of moderate heighth; and it seems as if Nature had placed them there to defend the Town from those deadly Blasts which arise from other Mountains. Here is a University, fine Palaces, stately Churches, publick Places, and an Hospital, one of the most considerable, and best serv'd in Europe: It consists of two Courts of Extraordinary greatness, with Fountains in the midst. Several Knights of St. James live in this Town, and the Metropolis, which is dedicated to this Saint, keeps his Bo­dy: It is extream stately, and prodigiously rich: It is pre­tended you hear a kind of Clattering at his Tomb, as if Arms were struck one against another; and this noise is only heard when the Spaniards are to undergo any great Loss. His Figure is represented on the Altar, and the Pilgrims thrice kiss it, and put their Hats on his Head; for this is the chief part of the Ceremony: they have also another very singular one; they ascend the top of the Church, which is covered with great flat Stones; In this place stands a Cross of Iron, whereon the Pil­grims ever fasten some Rag, or Scrap of what they wear: They pass under this Cross by so strait a Passage, that they are forced to crawl on their Bellies through it; and those who are not slender, are in danger of being bursten. And there have been some so ridiculous and superstitious, that having omitted to do this, they have expresly return'd back again three or four hun­dred Leagues; for you see here Pilgrims of all Nations. Here is a French Chappel, of which great Care is taken; It is said, the Kings of France have been always great Benefactors to it. The Church which is under ground is a better than that above; there are stately Tombs, and Epitaphs of great Antiquity, [Page 56] which exercise the Wits of Travellers. The Archiepiscopal Palace is a vast Pile, and its Antiquity adds to its Beauty, in­stead of diminishing it. A Man of my Acquaintance, a great Searcher into Etymologies, assured me the Town of Compo­stella was so called, because St. James was to suffer Martyr­dom in the place where he should see a Star appear at Compes­tella. It is true, continued he, that some People pretend it to be thus; but the Peoples Credulity and Superstition car­ries 'em further; for you are shew'd at Padron, near Compostella, an hollow Stone; and it is pretended this was the little Boat in which St. James arriv'd, after he had past so many Seas in it, which being of Stone, must have, without a signal Mira­cle, sunk to the bottom. I suppose, said I to him, you believe this to be most true. He smiled, and continued his Discourse: I cannot but give you the Description of our Militia: They are called together every Year in the Month of October, and all the Young Men from the Age of Fifteen, are oblig'd to march; for should it happen that a Father, or any other Relation should conceal his Son or Kinsman, and those who are Officers should come to know it, they would condemn him who has so of­fended, to perpetual Imprisonment. There have been some Examples of this, but they are rare; for the Peasants are so infinitely pleas'd to see themselves Arm'd, and treated as Ca­valieros & de Nobles Saldados del Rey, that they would not for any Consideration be wanting to shew themselves on this oc­casion. You shall seldom see in an whole Regiment any Soul­dier that has more Shirts than that on his Back; and the Stuff they wear, seems for its Coarseness to be made of Pack-thread: their Shooes are made of Cord; they wear no Stockins, yet eve­ry Man has his Peacock, or Dunghil-Cock's Feather in his Cap, which is tied up behind, with a Rag about his Neck in form of a Ruff; their Sword oftentimes hangs by their side tied with a bit of Cord, and ordinary without a Scabbard; the rest of their Arms is seldom in better Order: And in this Equipage they march gravely to Tuy, where is the General Rendezvouz, it being a Frontier place to Portugal. There are three which lie thus, the above-mention'd, Cindud-Rodrigo, and Badajor, but Tuy is the best guarded, because it is over-against Valentia, a considerable Town belonging to the King of Portugal, and which has been carefully fortifi'd: These two Towns are so near, that their Cannon will reach each other; and if the Portu­guises have omitted nothing to put Valentia out of danger of being insulted over, the Spaniards pretend Tuy is in as good a Condition to defend it self; It stands on an Hill, whose lower [Page 57] part is wash'd by the River Minhio; it has good Ramparts, strong Walls, and good store of Artillery. It is here, I say, where these our Champions bid Defiance to the King's Ene­mies, and in a strutting Bravery, declare, they do not fear 'em. Perhaps something of this may happen in time, for here are form'd as good. Troops as in any other part of Spain. However, this is a great loss to the Kingdom, the whole Youth being thus taken up; for the Lands, for the most part lye un­till'd, and on the side of St. James de Compostella, you wou'd think you saw a Wilderness; on that of the Ocean, the Coun­try being better and more peopled, yields greater Profit, and all things necessary and convenient, as Oranges, Lemmons and Pomgranates, several sorts of Fruits, and excellent Fish, espe­cially Pilchards, more delicate than those which come from Royan to Bordeaux.

One of the most remarkable things, in my mind, in this Kingdom, is the Town of Doiense, one part of which always enjoys the Sweetness of the Spring, and the Fruits of Autumn, by reason of several Springs of boiling Water, which warm the Air by their Exhalations; whil'st the other part of this same Town suffers the Rigors of the longest Winters, standing as it does at the Foot of a very cold Mountain; so that you find in the space of one only Season, all those which compose the course of the Year.

You say nothing, replied I to him, of the marvellous Foun­tain, call'd Louzano. Who have told you of it, Madam? an­swer'd he. Persons that have seen it, added I. You have been then told, continu'd he, that on the top of the Mountain of Cer­bret, you find this Fountain at the Source of the River Lours; which has Flux and Reflux as the Sea, tho' it be at twenty Leagues distance from it; that the greater the Heats are, the more Water it casts, that this Water is sometimes cold as Ice, and sometimes as hot as if it boil'd, there being no Natural Cause to be giv'n for it. You learn me Particulars I was ignorant of, said I to him, and this is doing me a great Pleasure, for I want not for Curiosity in relation to things uncommon. I wish, replied he, 'twas not so late, I would give you an account of several Rarities in Spain, and which perhaps you would gladly learn. I leave you for to Night, said I to him, but I hope before we come to Madrid, we shall have an opportunity of discoursing of them. He very civilly made me a Promise; and the Play being ended, we bad one another good night.

When I would go to rest, I was led into a Gallery full of Beds, as you see in Hospitals: I said, this was ridiculous; and that needing only four, what occasion was there for shew­ing me forty, and to put me into such an open place to starve me? I was answer'd, This was the best place in the House, and I must take up with it. I caus'd my Bed to be made, when scarce was I laid down, but some body knockt softly at my Door; my Women opened it, and remained much surpriz'd to see the Master and Mistress followed by a dozen of sorry creatures, and so cloath'd that they were half naked. I drew my Curtain at the Noise they made, and opened more mine Eyes at the sight of this Noble Company. The Mistress drew near to me, and told me, These were honest Travellers, who were coming into the Beds which remained empty. How, lie here? said I, I believe you have lost your Senses. I should have lost 'em indeed, replied she, should I let so many Beds stand Empty. Either, Madam, you must pay for them, or these honest Gentlemen must lye in them. I cannot express my Rage to you; I was in the mind to send for Don Fernand and my Knights, who would have sooner made 'em pass through the Windows than through the Doors: But I considered this could not be done without some Disturbance, and therefore I came to Terms, and agreed to pay 20 d. for each Bed: they are hardly dearer at Fontainbleau when the Court is there. These Illustrious Dons, or, to speak better, Tatterdemalions, who had the Insolence to come into my Room, immediately withdrew, having made me several profound Reverences.

The next Morning I thought to have burst with laughter, tho 'twas at my Cost, when I discovered mine Hostess's Trick to ruin me: For you must know in the first place, that these pretended Travellers were their Neighbours, and that they are accustomed to this Stratagem, when they see Stran­gers: But when I would have reckoned the Beds to pay for em, they were rowled all of 'em into the midst of the Gallery; there were divers wretched Troughs of Straw pull'd out, which were hardly good enough to entertain Dogs, yet I must pay for each 20 d. Four Pistoles ended our Dispute. I was not able to put my self in a Passion, such singularity did I find in this Management. I would not recount this little Accident to you, did it not serve to give you some insight into the Hu­mour of this Nation.

We set out from Burgos very late, the Weather was so bad, and there had fall'n in the Night such great quantity of Rain, that I tarry'd there as long as I could, in expectation of its [Page 59] ceasing. In fine, I came to a Resolution, and ascended my Litter. I had not gotten far from the Town, but I repented of my leaving it; no Track cou'd be seen, especially on a very high steep Mountain, over which we must necessarily pass. One of our Mule-drivers, who went before, struck too far on the Edge of this Mountain, so that he fell with his Mule into a kind of Precipice, where he broke his Head, and put his Arm out of joynt; this being the famous Philip de St. Sebastian, the most intelligent of all his Profession, and who common­ly carries Persons of Quality to Madrid; he was therefore much bemoaned; and we remain'd a great while before we could hale him out from the scurvy place where he had fall'n; Don Fernand was so compassionate as to let him have his Litter. The Night came speedily on us, and we could have comforted our selves, could we have return'd to Burgos, but it was impossible, the ways were no less covered with Snow on that side, than all the rest; so that we put in at Madrigalesco, which has not above a dosen Houses, and I may say we were besieg'd without having any Enemies. This Adventure gave us some disturbance, tho' we had brought Provisions with us for several Days. The best House of the Town has half unco­vered; and I was scarce lodged there, when a venerable Old Man askt for me on the part of a Lady who was just arrriv'd: He made me a Compliment, and told me, He was inform'd this was the only place where there was any tolerable Enter­tainment; and therefore intreated me to spare her some room. He added, She was a Person of Quality of Andalousia, was lately a Widow, and that he had the Honour to belong to her.

One of our Knights, named Don Esteve de Carjaval, who is of the same Country, fail'd not to demand her Name of the old Gentleman: He told him, she was the Marchioness de Los Rios. At this Name he turn'd towards me, and spake to me of her as of a Person whose Merit and Fortune were very considerable; I readily accepted of this good Company: She immediately came in her Litter, out of which she had not de­scended, having found no House where she could abide.

Her Dress seem'd to me very singular; had she not been so handsome as she was, she could never have appear'd in any sort tolerable: Her Gown and Petticoat was of black Serge, and over them a kind of Linnen Surplice, which reacht down lower than her Knees; the Sleeves were long, and strait in the Arms, which hung over her Hands: This Surplice was fastned to her Gown, and being not pleated behind, it seem'd like a Bib: she wore on her Head a piece of Muslin, which covered [Page 60] her Face, and one would have taken it for a Religiose's Hood; this covered her Neck, and reach'd down very low: There appear'd no Hair on her Head, they were all hid under this Muslin: She wore a great Mantle of black Taffaty, which co­vered her Heels; and over this Mantle she had an Hat, whose Brims were very large, fastned under her Chin with silken Twist. I was told they wear this but only when they travel.

This is the Habit of the Widows and Duenna's, a Dress which is insupportable to my sight; and should one meet with a Woman in the Night thus cloath'd, one might be startled without Reproach; yet the Lady was very beautiful in this Unseemly Dress. They never leave it, unless they marry; and they are oblig'd to bewail the Death of an Husband, whom they could not endure when living.

I was inform'd they pass the first Year of their Mourning in a Chamber hung with Black, wherein there is not the least glimmering of Day-light to be seen; they fit cross-legg'd on a little Holland-Quilt. When this Year is ended, they retire in­to a Chamber hung with Gray: they must have no Pictures, nor Looking-Glasses, nor Cabinets, nor fine Tables, nor Plate, neither must they have any Diamonds, or wear any Colours: However modest they are, they must live so retired, that it must seem their Soul is already in the other World. This Con­straint is the cause that several Ladies who are wealthy, and especially in rich Houshold-Goods, marry again to have the sa­tisfaction of making use of them.

After the first Compliments, I inform'd my self from this mournful Widow where she was going; she told me, She had not for a long time seen a Friend of her Mother's who was a Religious at Lashuelgas de Burgos, which is a famous Nunnery, wherein there is an hundred and fifty Nuns, most of 'em the Daughters of Princes, Dukes and Titulado's. She added, That the Abbess is Lady of fourteen large Towns, and above fifty other Places, wherein she chuses Governors and Magistrates; that she is Superior of seventeen Convents; Collates to several Benefices, and disposes of twelve Commanderships in favour of whom she pleases. She told me she design'd to pass some time in this Monastery: Can you, Madam, said I to her, accustom your self to so retired a Life as is that of a Convent? It will be no hard matter, said she, for I believe I see fewer People at my own House than I shall see there; and in effect these Religious have Liberty enough: They are commonly the handsomest young Wo­men of the Family who are there; these enter therein so young, that they know not what they are made to leave, nor what they under­take [Page 61] at the Age of six or seven, and it may be sooner. They are caused to make Vows, when 'tis often the Father or Mother, or some near Relation, who pronounce them for 'em, whilst the little Sacrifice disports her self with Sugar-plums, and lets 'em dress her how they will: Yet the Bargain holds, there's no unsaying it; however, they have every thing which can be expected in their Con­dition. There are at Madrid s me whom they call the Ladies of St. James: they are properly Canonnesses, who make their Try­als like the Knights of this Order; they bear, like them, a Sword made in form of a Cross, embroidered with Crimson Silk; they have 'em on their Scapularies and great Cloaks, which are white: These Ladies House is very stately; all who come to visit 'em enter without any difficulty; their Apartments are very fine, and every whit as well furnish'd as if they were at large in the World; they enjoy great Pensions, and each of 'em has three or four Women to wait on them: It's true, they never stir out, nor see their nearest Relations, but through several Grates. This perhaps would look horrid in another Country, but in Spain they are accustom'd to Con­finement.

There are Convents where the Religious see more Cavaliers than the Women who live at large, neither are they less gallant; It is impossible for any to have more Gayety than they; and, as I have already told you, Madam, here are more Beauties than abroad; but it must be granted, there are several among them who are deeply sensible at their having been so soon sacrific'd; they think of the Pleasures which they have never tasted, as the only ones which can make this Life Happy. They pass theirs in a Condition wor­thy of Compassion, always telling you, they are there by Force; and that the Vows they are made to repeat at the Age of five or six Years, are to be regarded like Childrens Plays.

Madam, said I to her, it wou'd have been great pity, had your Relations design'd you for such a Life; and one may judge, in be­holding you, that all the beautiful Spanish Ladies are not Religioses. Alas, Madam, said she, in fetching a deep Sigh, I know not what I wou'd be; it seems I am of a very odd Humor, not to be contented with my Fortune: but one has sometimes Ʋneasinesses which are unaccountable to Reason. In ending these words, she fastned her Eyes to the ground, and fell into such a deep fit of Musing, that I cou'd easily perceive something disturb'd her.

Whatever Curiosity I had to know the Subject, we had been so little together, that I dared not desire to be her Confident; but to draw her from the melancholy Posture she was in, I en­treated her to tell me some News of the Court of Spain, seeing [Page 62] she came from Madrid. She did what she cou'd to recover her self: she then told me, There were great shews of Joy at Court on the Queen's Birth-day: that the King had sent one of the Gentlemen of his Chamber to Toledo, to Compliment her from him: Yet these fine Appearances hindred not the Marquess de Mansera, the Queen's Major Domo, from receiving Orders to retire twenty Leagues from the Court, which had greatly mortifi'd this Princess. She inform'd us, That the Fleet which carried Troops to Galicia, was unhappily cast away on the Coasts of Portugal. That the little Dutchess de Terra Nova, was to Espouse Don Nicolo Pignatelli, Prince de Monte­leon, her Uncle. That the Marquess de Laganez had refused the Vice-royalty of Sardagnia, being in love with a fine Lady, whom he cou'd not find in his heart to leave. That Don Carlos de Omodei, Marquess d' Almanazid, was dangerously ill, at his Disappointment of being admitted a Grandee of Spain, to which he pretended, having marry'd the Heiress of the House and Grandeurship of Castle Rodrigue; and that which most sen­sibly afflicted him, was, that Don Ariel de Gusman, this Lady's first Husband, had enjoyed this Honour; so that he cou'd not but look on the Difficulties thrown in his way as a slighting of his Person: In truth, Madam, said I to her, I can hardly com­prehend how a Man of sence, can with such eagerness pursue, and be so greatly dejected at a Disappointment of this Nature. We are otherwise affected in Spain, replied the beautiful Widow, and this Instance is a proof of it.

Don Frederic de Cardonne, who greatly interested himself for the Duke de Medina Celi, askt her News of him: The King, said she, has lately made him President of the Indies. The Queen-Mother has wrote to the King, on the Report which runs, that he is about Marrying; that she is surpriz'd things are already gone so far, and he has not acquainted her with them. She adds in her Letter, She advised him in the mean time, whilst all things were ready for this Ceremony, to make a Journey to Catalonia and Arragon. Don John of Austria sufficiently understands the Necessity of this, and he presses the King to depart, to content these People, in promising by Oath, according as is customary to new Kings, to maintain all their ancient Priviledges. Have then, Madam, said I to her, interrupting her, the Arrogonois any other Priviledges than the Castillians? Very particular ones, re­plied she, and you being a Stranger, I believe you will be wil­ling to let me inform you of them. Here's what I learnt:

The Daughter of Count Julien, named Cava, was one of the most beautiful Ladies in the World: King Rodrigue became so passionately in love with her, that his Affections knowing no Bounds, transported him beyond all measure. The Father, who was then in Affrica, inform'd of the Outrage done his Daughter, who breath'd nothing but Revenge, treated with the Moors, and supplied 'em with the means to enter into Spain, This hap­pened in 714, after the Bat­tle of St. Mar­tin, wherein D. Rodrigue lost his Life; others say, he fled into Portugal, and died in a Town there call'd Viscii. and to make there, for sundry Ages, all those Ravages set forth at large in history.

The Arragonois were the first who shook off the Yoak of these Barbarians; and finding no more among them any Princes of the Race of the Gothish Kings, they agreed to Elect one, and cast their eyes on a Lord of the Country, call'd Garci Ximinex; but they being Masters, to impose Laws on him, and finding himself sufficiently Happy that he might Rule over them under any Condition, these People therefore confin'd him within narrow Bounds.

They agreed, That as soon as their Monarch shou'd break through any of their Laws, he shou'd immediately forfeit his Power, and they be at full liberty to chuse another, though he were a Pagan: and to hinder him from violating their Pri­viledges, and to defend themselves against him, they establisht a Soveraign Magistrate, whom they call'd the Justicia, whose Office was to observe the Conduct of the King, the Judges, and he People: but the Power of a Soveraign being likely to Awe a meer Particular, to Assure the Justicia in the Execution of his Office, they ordered, That he might not suffer either in his Person or Goods, but by a compleat Assembly of the States, which they call Las Cortes.

They moreover provided, That if the King shou'd Oppress any one of his Subjects, the great and considerable Men of the Kingdom might assemble themselves, and hinder his receiving any of his Revenues, till the Innocent was acquitted, and re-establisht in his former Rights. And to make Garci Ximinez timely sensible of the Power this Man had over him, they set him on a kind of a Throne, and made the King to kneel down bare headed before him, to receive from him his Oath of keep­ing their Priviledges. This Ceremony ended, they acknow­ledge him their Sovereign, but in as odd as disrespectful a [Page 64] Manner, for instead of promising him Fidelity and Obedience, they say to him, We who are as good Men as your self we make you our King and Governour, on Condition you keep to us our Rights and Properties, otherwise we Disacknowledge you.

The King, Don Pedro, in process of time coming to the Crown, relisht this Custom, as unworthy of the Regal State; and it so greatly disgusted him, that by his Authority and In­treaties, and the Offers he made of bestowing several notable Priviledges on the Kingdom, he procured the Abolishment of this, in an Assembly of the States: he got this general Consent in Writing, which was presented to him. As soon as he had the Parchment, he drew out his Dagger, and pierced his Hand with it, saying, 'Twas fit a Law which gave Subjects the Liber­ty of chusing their Sovereign should be Effaced with their Sove­reign's Blood. His Statue is still seen in the Deputation-Hall of Saragossa: he holds a Dagger in one Hand, and the Charter in the other. The late Kings have not been such Religious Ob­servers of their Priviledges as the first.

But there is a Law still in force, and which is very singular, and this they call, The Law of Manifestation; which is, That if an Arragonois had Wrong done him in Judgment, in con­signing 500 Crowns, he may bring his Cause before the Justicia, who is obliged, after an exact Perquisition, to punish him who has giv'n a wrong Sentence: And if he fails therein, the op­prest Person may have Recourse to the States of the Kingdom, who Assemble and Nominate five Persons of their Body, which is to say, of the Prime Nobility, the Ecclesiasticks, the Gen­try and Commonalty: they appoint three out of the first Rank, and two from each of the others. But it is observable, they choose the most Ignorant to Judge the most able Men in the Gown, whether to Disgrace 'em the more for their Fault, or, as they alledge, That Justice should be so clear, that the very Plow-men, and those who understand the least, should discern it without the help of Oratory. It is likewise affirm'd, That the Judges tremble when they pronounce a Sentence, fearing lest it turn against themselves, to the loss of their Lives or Estates, should they commit the least Fault therein, either wilfully, or through Inadvertency. It were well if this Custom were observed in all Kingdoms: but this is rather to be wish'd than expected.

Yet what is no less singular, is That Justice remains always Soveraign; and though the Unjust Judge be punish'd severely for his wrong Decree, yet it subsists in its full force, and is fully executed: If then any Unhappy Wretch be sentenced to [Page 65] Death, he is not spared, tho' his Innocency be discovered, and made as clear as Noon-day; but his Judges are executed too before his Face; which, in my mind, is a poor Consolation. If the Judge accused, as justly perform'd his Office, the Plain­tiff leaves the 500 Crowns which he had confign'd: But were he to lose an 100000 Crowns of Annual Revenue, by the Sen­tence he complains of, the Sentence or Decree remains good, and the Judge is only condemn'd to pay him likewise 500 Crowns; the rest of this Judge's Estate is forfeited to the King: which is, in my Opinion, another Point of Injustice; for in fine, he ought, above all others, to have Recompence made him who suffers by a wrong Sentence.

These same People have another Custom, to distinguish by the Punishment the Crime committed: for Example, A Cava­lier, who has kill'd another in Duel (for they are here strictly forbid), he has his Head cut off before; and he that has Assassi­nated, his is cut off behind. This is to distinguish him who has behaved himself like a brave Man, from him that kills you Treacherously.

She added, That to speak in general of the Arragonois, They have a Natural Pride, which is hard to be suppress'd: but like­wise to do them Justice, there are People of brave Minds to be found among them; insomuch, that they are easily discern'd from all the rest of the King of Spain's Subjects: That they have never wanted Great Men, from their first King to Ferdi­nand: That they counted such a great number of them, as would scarce be believ'd: However, they have greatly recom­mended themselves by their Valour and Conduct. That as to the rest, their Country was so little fruitful, that excepting some Valleys which were watered by Channels, whose Water came from the Ebre, the rest was so dry and sandy, that you meet with scarce any thing else but stony and parched up pla­ces: That Sarragossa is a great City, the Houses finer than at Madrid; the Publick Places adorn'd with Arches; That the Holy Street, where the Courses are run, is so long and large, as may make it pass for a great and vast place, having several great Mens Palaces on it; that of Castelmorato being one of the pleasantest: That the Vault of St. Fancis's Church was very curious, for being of extraordinary Largeness, yet 'tis upheld by no Pillars: That the City is not strong, but the Inhabitants so stout, that it needed no Walls; that it has never a Foun­tain, this being one of its greatest Defects: That the Ebre car­ried no Boats, the River being full of dangerous Rocks. As to the rest, the Archbishoprick was worth 60000 Crowns a [Page 66] Year: That the Vice-Royalty brought in no Revenue, being a Place of Honour, fit only for great Lords to bear the Expence of it, to maintain their Ranks, and keep the People under, who are Naturally Fierce and Imperious, not Affable to Stran­gers; and so little desirous of making Acquaintance, that they chuse rather to stay at Home alone all their Life-time, than stir out to procure Friendships: That here is a severe Inquisi­tion, who have a stately Palace, and a most Rigid Court of Justice; Yet this does not hinder great Troops of Robbers, call'd Bandoleros, from Ravaging, and dispersing themselves over all Spain; who give no Quarter to Travellers, snatching up some­times Women of Quality, whom they afterwards set at Ran­som, for their Parents to Redeem; but when they are Hand­some they keep them: And this is the greatest Misfortune can happen to 'em, being forc'd to spend their Days with the Worst of Men, who keep them in dreadful Caves, or carry them along with them on Horse-back, being so furiously jealous of 'em, that one of their Captains (having been lately set upon by Souldiers sent into the Mountains to seize on him) being mortally wounded, and having his Mistress with him, who was of the Marquess de Camaraza, a Grandee of Spain's Family: When she saw him in this Condition, she thought only of mak­ing Use of this favourable Opportunity of saving her self; which he perceiving, dying, as he was, he catch'd hold of her Hair, and struck his Dagger into her Breast, being not wil­ling, said he, that another should possess a Treasure which had been so dear to him. And this is what himself acknowledg'd to the Souldiers who found him, and saw this sad Spectacle.

The Beautiful Marchioness here held her peace; and I re­turn'd her all due Thanks for the Favour she did me, in inform­ing me of these Curiosities; and of which, perhaps without her, I might have been Ignorant all my Life. I do not think, Madam, said she to me, you owe me such Thanks; I rather fear the having deserved Reproaches for so long and tiresome a Conver­sation.

I would not let her leave me to eat elsewhere; and I obliged her to lye with me, she having no Bed. So Civil and Cour­teous a Proceeding made her much my Friend. She assured me of this in such Affectionate Terms, that I could not doubt of it; for I must tell you, the Spanish Women are more Caressing than we, and are far more Kind and Tender to those they profess Friendship, In fine, I could not forbear telling her, That if she had all the Kindness for me she made profession, she must be so complaisant, to inform me, What made her seem so [Page 67] melancholly? That I had heard her fetch deep Sighs in the Night, and appear'd very Restless and Disconsolate; That if she could find any Comfort in sharing her Grief with me, I offered my Ser­vice to her, as a most faithful Friend. She embraced me with great Affection, and told me, without delay, she would im­mediately satisfie my Curiosity; which she did in these Terms:

Seeing you are desirous to know me, I must without disguising to you any thing, acknowledge my Weaknesses to you: and by my Sincerity and Open-heartedness, deserve a Curiosity as obliging as yours:

I come not of such a Family as may claim Nobility; my Father's Name was Davila; he was only a Banker, but he was in good Credit, and was moderately Wealthy: We are of Seville, Capital of Andalousia, and we have ever dwelt there. My Mother knew the World, she saw many People of Quality, and having no Children but me, she took great care of my Education: It did not appear ill-bestowed on me; for I had the good Fortune to get the good Will of most that saw me.

We had two Neighbours who came often to our House, who were very welcome both to my Father and Mother: Their Condition and Age were in no sort alike; One was the Marquess de Los Rios, a Person Wealthy and Noble; he was a Widower, and well advanced in years: the other was the Son of a great Merchant, who traded to the Indies; he was Young and Handsome, he had Wit, and a very graceful Beha­viour; his Name was Mendez; He was not long before he fell passionately in Love with me; so that he omitted nothing which might please me, and gain my Affections.

He was in all places where he knew I was to pass; he spent whole Nights under my Windows, to sing Verses which he had composed and set to my Praise, which he had very well accompany'd with his Harp.

But seeing his Attendancies had not all the Effect he ex­pected, and having past some time in this manner, without daring to mention his Affection to me, he at length resolv'd to make use of the first occasion to acquaint me with it. I avoid-: ed him ever since I had a Conversation with one of my Friends, who had more Experience and Knowledge of the World than I: I had felt, that Mendez's Company gave me Joy, and that my Heart had an Emotion for him, which it had not for others: That when his Affairs, or our Visits hindred him from seeing me, I grew restless; and loving this young Woman, above [Page 68] others, and being as dear to her, she observ'd I was not so free and gay as I was wont, and that my Eyes were sometimes at­tentively fixed on Mendez. One Day when she rally'd with me about it, I said to her very innocently, My dear Henrieta, de­fine to me the Sentiments I have for Mendez: I know not whe­ther I ought to be afraid of them, and whether I ought not to de­fend my self from them. I feel I know not what sort of Trouble and Pleasure arising in my Breast. She began to laugh, she embraced me, and said to me, My dear Heart, you are in Love. Who, I in Love? reply'd I, in amaze: You joke with me; I nei­ther am, nor will be in Love. This depends not always on us, con­tinued she, with a more serious Air, our Stars decide this be­fore our Hearts. But in earnest, what is it so much startles you? Mendez is in a Condition equal to yours; he deserves well, a good comely Man; and if his Affairs go on with the same success as they have done hitherto, you may live very happily with him. And whence should I learn, reply'd I, interrupting her, that he will be happy with me, and that he so much as thinks this? O, take my Word for it, answer'd she, whatever he has done has its Designs; for Men are not wont to pass Nights under Windows, and the Days in following a Person for whom they have nothing but Indifferency.

After some other Discourse of this Nature, she left me, and I resolv'd, maugre the Repugnance I felt in me, to give Mendez no opportunity of speaking to me in particular.

But one Night as I was walking in the Garden, he came to­wards me: I was perplext to see my self alone with him; and he had the opportunity of observing it on my Countenance, and in the manner after which I receiv'd him. This could not divert him from the design he had of entertaining me: How Happy am I, Madam, said he, to find you alone? But do I call my self Happy! Perhaps I know not what I say: for it may be you will not receive a Secret with which I would entrust you. I am as yet so young, said I to him, blushing, that I would advise you to say nothing to me, unless you would have me impart it to my Com­panions. Alas, continued he, should I tell you, I adore you; that all my Happiness depends on the Inclinations you have towards me: That I cannot live without some Certainty, that I may one day please you; will you tell this to your Companions? No, said, I to him, in great perplexity, I would look on this Confidence as a Railery, and not believing it my self, I would not hazard its being left to be believ'd by others.

We were interrupted as I ended these words; and he appear'd to me not over-content with the Answer I made him; and a while after he found an opportunity to reproach me with it.

I could not but give a favourable Ear to the Inclinations I had towards him; every thing he told me seem'd to me to have its particular Gracefulness: And it was no hard matter for him to perswade me, that he lov'd me above all things in the World. In the mean time, the Marquess de Los Rios took such a liking to me, and my Person and Behaviour ran so deeply in his Thoughts, that he wholly applied himself to please me. He was very nice and cautious; he could not resolve with himself to owe me wholly to my Parents Authority: He well knew they would receive as an Honour the Intentions he had for me; but he was for gaining my Consent before he demanded theirs.

In this Design he said all to me he thought was like to take with me. I answer'd him, I should always think it an indis­pensable Duty to obey my Father: yet our Ages were so diffe­rent, that I told him, I thought 'twere better he left off think­ing of me; that I should have an everlasting Acknowledgment for the advantageous Intentions he had for me: and there­fore I would esteem him, tho I could not love him. Ha­ving heard what I said, he was some time without speaking, and immediately taking up a very generous Resolution: Lovely Mariana, says he, you might have made me the happiest Man in the World; and if you were ambitious, I had therewith to satisfie you: But you refuse me, and I desire to be anothers: I consent to it; I love you too well to be in suspence, whether you are to be satisfied or I; I therefore wholly sacrifice my Happiness to you, and leave you for ever. In ending these Words he left me, and appear'd so afflicted, that I could not forbear being con­cern'd.

Mendez arriv'd a while after, and found me melancholly: He was so earnest with me to know the Cause, that I could not deny him this Proof of my Complaisance. Any one but he would have had a sensible Obligation at the Exclusion I came from giving his Rival: But far from seeming to value it, he told me, He saw in mine Eyes the Regret I had for a Lover, who could place me in another sort of a Rank than he was able; and that my Proceeding was very Cruel. In vain I endeavour­ed to make him sensible of the Injustice of his; but all I could say, could not hinder him from charging me with Inconstancy. I remain'd vext, and surpriz'd at this his way of Dealing, and was several days without speaking to him.

He, in fine, at last understood he had no Reason to Com­plain; he came to me, begg'd my Pardon, and testified to me a great Displeasure at his own Jealousie: He excused himself, as all Lovers do, on the strength of his Passion. I had so much Weakness as to be willing to forget the Trouble he had given me: we made up the Matter between us, and he continued on his Courtship.

His Father having understood the Passion he had for me, thought he could not procure him a more advantageous Mar­riage: he took notice of it to him, and came afterwards to my Father, to open to him the Proposal: they had been long Friends; he was favourably heard, and they easily agreed on the Matter.

Mendez came to inform me of the News, with such Transports as would have seem'd ridiculous to any other than a Mistress. My Mother order'd me to look kindly on him, telling me, this Affair would be advantageous to me: and as soon as the India-Fleet should arrive, wherein he was greatly concern'd, the Marriage should be concluded.

Whilst matters thus past, the Marquess de Los Rios had re­tired to one of his Country-Houses, where he scarcely saw any one: He led a languishing Life; he still lov'd me, but hin­dred himself from telling me so, and from comforting himself by this innocent Remedy.

In fine, his Body could not resist the Heaviness of his Mind; he fell dangerously ill, and being told by the Physicians, there was no hope of his Recovery, he pluckt up his Spirits to write me the most affectionate Letter imaginable, and sent at the same time to me a Deed of Gift of all his Estate, in case he dy­ed. My Mother was in my Chamber, when a Gentleman pre­sented this Packet from him; she would know what it con­tain'd.

I could not forbear at the same time, telling her what had past; and we were both of us in the greatest surprize at the Marquess's extream Generosity. She sent him word, that I should go with my Family to thank him for a Liberality which I had no ways deserv'd: And in particular, she sharply repre­hended me for having made a Mystery of a thing to her with which I ought to have immediately acquainted her. I threw my self at her Feet, I excused my self the best I could, and testifi'd such great Sorrow for having displeas'd her, that she easily pardon'd me. Leaving my Chamber, she went to my Father, and having learnt him all which had past, they resolv'd to go the next morning to see the Marquess, and to carry me with them.

I acquainted Mendez with this in the Evening; and the Fear I had, lest my Parents should, in fine, make me marry this old Man, if he chanced to escape out of his Sickness. Howe­ver sensible I appear'd to him of this, he was so far trans­ported, and reproacht me so greatly with it, that I must have lov'd him as much as I did, not to have broke off with him: But he had such an Ascendant over me, though he was the Injustest of all Men, yet I thought him the most Reasona­ble.

We were at the Marquess de Los Rios's; his Country-house was not above two Leagues from Seville: Dying, as he was, he re­ceiv'd us with such Joy as was easily observable. My Father testi­fi'd to him his Grief, to see him in so low a Condition, thankt him for the Donation he made me, and assured him, If he could find a fair and just Pretence, he would break ofs with Mendez, to whom he had engaged his Word: That should this happen, he promist him solemnly I should be no Body's but his. He receiv'd this Assurance in the same manner as if he had receiv'd his perfect Felicity; but he knew well the Dolor I conceiv'd thereat: I became Pale, my Eyes were covered with Tears; and when we were about leaving him, he desired me to draw near to him; he told me with a languishing Tone: fear nothing, Ma­riana; I love you too well to displease you; you shall have Men­dez, seeing your Affections are engaged to him. I answer'd him: I had no particular Inclination for him; but being commanded to respect him, as a Man who was to be my Husband, I could do no otherwise; however, I intreated him to be well.

This seem'd to me the least step I could take towards a Person to whom I had so great Obligations. He appear'd thereat sufficiently satisfy'd, attempting to take my Hand and kiss it: Remember, said he to me, you enjoyn me to live; and that my Life being your Work, you will be oblig'd to conserve it. We return'd at Night, and the Impatient Mendez waited for us, to make me new Reproaches: I took 'em as I was wont, as Proofs of his Passion: and having justified my self, I askt him, What News there was of the Fleet? Alas! said he to me, my Father has receiv'd such as drives me to Despair: I dare not inform you. Have you any thing separate from me? said I to him, looking tenderly on him: Would you have me to be reserv'd to you? I am too Happy, replied he, in that you have such favoura­ble Dispositions; and being not able to keep any Secret from you, I must plainly tell you, That the Galion in which is is our whole Estate, is split and lost, running against a Rock. But I should be less sensible, how greatly soever I am Interest, did I not look on [Page 72] the Ʋnhappy Consequences of this Loss: Your Presence will restore the Marquess de Los Rios to his Health; his Sentiments for you are known in your Family; he is Rich, and a great Lord: I become Miserable; and if you forsake me, my dear Mariana, I shall have no more Hope but in a speedy Death. I was pierced with Sorrow at this sad News: I took one of his Hands, and closing it with mine, I said to him, My dear Mendez, do not think me capable of loving you, and yet leaving you, by the Effects of your good or bad Fortune: if you be able to bear up against it, believe me so too. I call Heaven to witness, continued I, pro­vided you love me, and be faithful to me, that I will never for­sake you; and let it punish me if ever I prove Inconstant.

He testified all the Acknowledgements he ought me for such affectionate Assurances, and we resolved not to divulge this Ac­cident.

I withdrew very melancholly, and shut my self up in my Closet, ruminating on the Consequences of this sad Disaster. I was still there, when I heard some Body knocking softly at the Shutters of my Window: I drew near, and saw Mendez by the Light of the Moon: What do you here, said I to him, at this time of the Night? Alas, answer'd he to me, I was trying whe­ther I could speak with you before I departed: My Father has again lately received News of the Galion, and will have me immediately go where she is run a-ground, to endeavour to save something: It is a great way thither, and I shall be a great while without seeing you. Ah, dear Mariana, during all this time will you be as good as your Word to me? May I hope my dear Mistress will be faithful to me? What Reason have I given you, Mendez, said I, inter­rupting him, to doubt it? Yes, continued I, I will love you were you the most Ʋnfortunate Man in the World.

It would be to abuse your Patience, Madam, to relate to you whatsoever we said in this doleful Separation; and though there appear'd no Danger, yet our Hearts had a foreboding of what was afterwards to happen to us. The Day began to ap­pear, and we must bid Adieu: I saw him shed Tears, which were accompanied with mine.

I threw my self on my Bed, rowling a thousand sad Thoughts in my Mind; and I appear'd the next Morning so out of Or­der, that my Father and Mother were afraid I was falling into some dangerous fit of Sickness.

Mendez his Father came to make them a Visit, to excuse his Son's parting without taking his Leave of them. He added, He had a Business which required such haste, as would not suffer him a Minute's time at his disposal. As to my self, Madam, I was [Page 73] comfortless, being insensible to every thing. And if any thing could ease me, 'twas some hours Conversation with my dear Henrietta, with whom I freely vented my Thoughts touching the long Absence of Mendez.

In the mean time the Marquess de Los Rios was out of Dan­ger, and my Father went often to see him: I observ'd one day great Alteration on my Mother's Countenance, she and my Fa­ther having been long shut up with Religioses, who came to give 'em a Visit; and after a Conference of some time, they call'd me, without my being able to divine the Cause.

I entred into their Apartment in such Disorder, that I knew not what I did. One of these good Fathers, Venerable by his Age and Habit, spake much to me about the Resignation we owe to the Divine Will, on his Providence, in every thing which relates to us: and the Close of his Discourse was, That Mendez was taken by the Algerines; that he was a Slave; and by his Misfortunes these Pyrates had learnt he was a rich Merchant's Son; which had occasion'd the setting him at an extraordinary Ransom: That they were at Algiers in the time he arriv'd; would have willingly brought him along with 'em, but the Money which they had for all, was not sufficient for him alone. That at their Return they had been at his Father's to inform him of this vexatious Disaster; but found he had absented him­self, and that the loss of a Galion, on which was embarkt all his Effects, without being able to save any thing, had induced him to avoid his Creditors, who sought him every-where, to throw him in Prison. That things being in this Condition, they saw no Remedy to poor Mendez his Misfortunes, being in the hands of Meluza the most famous and covetous of all the Corsaries; and that if I would follow their Advice, and that of my Parents, I would think of taking another Party. I had so far heard this dreadful News in so ecstatic a Condition, that I could only interrupt them by sad Sighs; but when he told me, I must think of another Party; I burst out with Tears and Shrieks, as made both my Father and Mother, and these Religioses compassionate me.

I was carried into my Chamber as one nearer death than life; and Donna Henrietta was sent for, and it was not without great Affliction she beheld me in this sad Condition. I fell in­to a most deep Melancholly; I tormented my self day and night, and nothing was able to remove my dear Mendez out of my Mind.

The Marquess de Los Rios, having learnt what had past, conceiv'd such strong Hopes, that he soon found himself in a Condition to come and Claim of my Father and me the Effect of the Words we had given him. I shewed him that mine were not disengaged in respect of Mendez; that he was Un­fortunate, which no ways lessen'd my Engagements to him. He heard me without being perswaded by me, and told me, I had the same desire of destroying my self, as others had of saving themselves; that 'twas more my Interest than his, which made him act as he did. And being ravisht with having a Pre­tence which seemed to him plausible, he prest my Father with such Earnestness, that he at length consented to what he de­sired.

It is impossible for me to represent to you, Madam, in what an Abyss of Sorrow I was in: What is become my Lord, said I to the Marquess, of that scrupulous Tenderness which hin­der'd you from taking my Heart from any other hand than my own? Let me at least have some time to forget Mendez; Perhaps his Absence and Misfortunes may prevail on me to some Indifferency towards him. To this cruel Accident, which has snatch'd him so lately from me, you add new Troubles when you expect I should so speedily pass over from him to you.

I know not what I expect or may hope for, said he to me, but this I am sure of, that my Complaisance had like to have cost me my Life; that if you be not design'd for me, you will be anothers; and as to Mendez, his Fortune has been such, that he can no longer pretend to you; and seeing you must be disposed of, I think you are very hard hearted to refuse me. You cannot be ignorant of what I have done hitherto to please you, my former Proceeding should serve as a sufficient Testimony of my future Respects.

The Marquess made a greater progress in my Father's Mind than mine. In a Word, my Mother having one day sent for me, told me, 'Twas to no purpose to use any longer Delays, my Father being resolv'd I should obey his Orders. Whatever I could say to excuse my self, my Tears, my Remonstrances, Entreaties were all to no purpose, and serv'd only to exaspe­rate my Mother.

All things necessary were prepared for my Marriage, the Marquess would have every thing suitable to his Quality; He sent me a Cabinet of Jewels and Precious Stones, to the value of several thousand Crowns. The fatal Day for our Wedding was set. Seeing my self reduced to this Extremity, I took a resolution which will surprise you, Madam, and demonstrate a great Passion.

I went to Donna Henrietta; this Friend had been ever faith­ful to me, and threw my self at her feet, surprising her by so extraordinary a Carriage: My dear Henrietta, said I to her, melting in Tears, there is no Remedy to my Misfortunes, unless you have pity on me; do not abandon me, let me conjure you in the sad Condition I am in; to morrow I must marry the Marquess de Los Rios, I can no longer avoid it. If the Offers of Friendship you have made me be Proof against all Tryal, and can make you capable of a generous Resolution, you will not refuse to follow my Fortune, and to accompany me to Algiers to pay Mendez his Ran­som, to redeem him from the cruel Slavery he is in. You see me at your Feet, continued I, I will never rise till you have given me your Word, to do what I desire you. She seem'd so concern'd at my Posture, that I arose to make her answer me. She immedi­ately embraced me with great Testimonies of Tenderness: I will refuse you nothing, my dear Mariana, said she to me, were it my very Life; but you are going to ruine your self and me with you. How can two Girls execute what you project? Our Age, our Sex, and your Beauty, will expose us to Accidents, the bare ima­gination of which makes me to tremble: this is certain, we are go­ing to overwhelm our Families with Shame and Confusion; and if you had made serious Reflections hereon, it is not possible you could have come to this Resolution. Ah, barbarous! cried I, and more barbarous than he that detains my Lover; you forsake me, but tho' I am alone, yet that shall not hinder me from pursuing my Point, neither can the assistance you should give me stand me in much stead: Remain, remain, I consent, it is fit I should depart without any Comfort to affront all Dangers; I confess such an un­dertaking is fit only for a desperate Creature.

My Reproaches and Tears moved Henrietta; she told me my Interest had obliged her as much as her own to speak to me as she had done; but in short, seeing I persisted in my first Re­solution, and nothing could divert me from it, she was resol­ved I should not go alone; That if I would be ruled by her, we should disguise our selves; that she would undertake to get two Suits of Mens Apparel; and as for the rest, it belong'd to me to take care of it. I embraced her with a thousand Testimonies of Thankfulness.

I afterwards askt her, Whether she had seen the Jewels which the Marquess had sent me; I will bring them, said I to her, to purchase Mendez's Ransom with them. We resolv'd to lose no time, and we neither of us fail'd in what we had pro­jected.

Never were two Maidens better disguised under the Habit of two Cavaliers. We parted that Night, and embarkt, our selves without the least Obstacle, but after some days Sail we were overtaken by so violent a Storm, as made us despair of our Safety. In all this Disorder and Peril, I was less concern­ed for my self, than for not having compassed my dear Mendez's Liberty, and for having engaged Henrietta to follow my ill For­tune: It is I, said I to her, in embracing her, it is I, my dear Companion, that has rais'd this Storm, were I not on the Sea it would be Calm; my Misfortune follows me wherever I go. In fine, we having been a Day and two Nights in continual Alarums, the Weather chang'd, and we arriv'd at Algiers.

I was so glad to see my self in a Condition to deliver Mendez, that I reckon'd all the Dangers we underwent as nothing: But alas, what became of me in disembarking, when after all the search which could be made, I perceiv'd there was no hope of finding the little Cabinet wherein I had put all I had was most precious: I found my self seiz'd with such violent Grief, that I thought I should have expired before I got out of the Vessel. Without doubt this Cabinet, which was little, and of which I took but small Care during the Tempest, fell into the Sea, or was stole, which ever of these two it was, I had a considerable Loss, and I had only remaining Jewels to the value of a thousand Pounds, which I had kept for all Events about me.

I resolv'd with this, to make a Tryal with Mendez's Patron: As soon as we were in the Town, we enquired out his House, (for Meluza was well known) and went thither clad as Gentle­men.

I cannot express to you, Madam, the trouble I was in draw­ing near this House, where I knew my dear Lover languisht in Chains; what sad Reflections did I not make; how did I look when I enter'd the Corsary's House, and saw Mendez Chain'd, with several others, who were leading out to work in the Field. I should have fallen at his Feet, had not Henrietta born me up: I no longer knew where I was, nor what I did; I would have spoken to him, but Grief had so seiz'd on my Spirits, that my Tongue could not utter a Word. As to him, he beheld me not; he was so sad and deprest, that he could look on no body; and one must love him as much as I did, to know him, so great­ly was he changed.

After having been some time coming to my self, I went into a low Room, where I was told Meluza was; I saluted him, and told him the occasion of my Voyage; that Mendez was my near [Page 77] Relation; that he was undone by the Loss of a Galion, and his Captivity together; and that 'twas out of my own Money that I would pay his Ransom. The Moor appear'd to me little con­cern'd at what I said; and looking scornfully on me, he an­swer'd, It was not his business to enquire whence I had my Money; but this he certainly knew, that Mendez was Rich; and to shew that he would not take all Advantages, he would therefore set him at twenty thousand Crowns.

Alas, what would this have been, had I not lost my Jewels? but this was too much in the Condition I was in. In fine, af­ter several long fruitless Disputes, I took on me immediately a resolution which could only be inspired by an extream Love.

Here's all I have, said I to the Pyrate, in giving him my Diamonds, they are not worth what thou demandest: take me for thy Slave, and be perswaded thou wilt not keep me long. I am the only Daughter of a Rich Banker of Seville; keep me for an Hostage, and let Mendez go; he will soon return to Redeem me. The Barbarian was surpriz'd to find me capable of so generous and affectionate a Resolution. Thou art worthy, said he to me, of a better Fortune. Be it so; I accept the Condition you offer me: I will take care of thee, and be a good Patron to thee. Thou must leave the Habit thou wearest, to put on one agreeable to thy Sex: thou shalt keep thy Jewels if thou wilt, I can as well stay for the whole as for a part.

Donna Henrietta was so confused and dismayed at the Bargain I came from concluding, that she could not sufficiently express her Displeasure to me; but in fine, maugre all her Remon­strances and Entreaties, I held firm, and Meluza caus'd a Slave's Habit to be brought me, which I put on.

He conducted me to his Wives Chamber, to whom he de­liver'd me, having recounted to her what I had done for my Lover's Liberty.

She seem'd to be much effected with it, and promis'd she would shorten the time of my Servitude by all the good Treat­ments she could make me.

At Night, when Mendez return'd, Meluza caus'd him to be call'd, telling him, That being of Seville, he would there­fore shew him a Slave he had bought, because perhaps he might know her.

Immediately I was brought before him; Mendez at this sight, losing all Countenance, came and cast himself at my Feet, and taking my Hands, which he bathed with his Tears, he said every thing which was most tender and affectionate to me. [Page 78] Meluza and his Wife diverted themselves, in seeing the diffe­rent Motions of Joy and Grief with which we were agitated: in fine, they inform'd Mendez of the Obligations he had to me; that he was free, and that I would remain in his place. He did whatever could be done to disswade me from taking this Task on me: Alas, said he to me, you would have me load you with my Chains, my dear Mistress; Shall I be free, when you are not? I go then to do for you what you come from doing for me; I will sell my self, and Redeem you with this Money: for in fine, consider, that should I as soon as I arrive at Seville, find Assistance, and return again to bring you back, yet how is it possible for me in the mean time to leave you; judge how I can do this in a time wherein my Fortune promises me nothing, and am the most Ʋnhap­py of all Men. I offered against all his Reasons, the Tenderness of my Father, who would soon Redeem me when he knew where I was. In fine, I made use of all the Power I had over his Mind, to make his Advantage of what I had done in his Fa­vour.

What shall I say to you, Madam, of our Separation? It was so dolorous, that Words cannot express what we felt. I ob­liged Henrietta to part with him, to sollicite and press my Parents to do their part in my behalf.

In the mean time my Father and Mother were in an uncon­ceivable Affliction and when they perceiv'd my flight, they thought to die with Grief.

They blamed themselves infinitely for forcing me to marry the Marquess de Los Rios. He was for his part in no less Despair; they caused me to be searcht for in vain, in all places where they thought I might have hid my self.

Two whole Years were past without my receiving any News or Succors from Mendez; which made me believe with great likelihood, that both he and Henrietta were cast away on the Sea: I had given them all the Jewels which Meluza had left me; but it was not their Loss, nor that of my Liberty, which I regretted: It was of my dear Lover and faithful Friend, whose Remembrance continually possest me, and caus'd me an unparallel'd Affliction; I could get no Rest nor Health; I wept Day and Night; I refused to come out of my Slavery in neg­lecting to signifie to my Father my present Condition. I wisht only for a speedy Death, which I would have willingly met with, to put an end to my Troubles and Misfortunes.

Meluza and his Wife began to pity me: they did not doubt but Mendez, was cast away: they treated me less cruelly, than these sort of People are wont to use those Unhappy Wretches, who fall into their Hands.

One Day, as Meluza came from Pyrating he brought with him several Persons of both Sexes which he had taken, and among the rest a Young Woman of some Quality of Seville, and whom I knew. This sight renewed my Grief: she was much surpris'd to find me in this sad place. We affectionately embraced one another, and observing a deep silence; How now, Beautiful Mariana, said she to me, are you so indifferent towards your Relations and Country, that you have no Curiosity to make any Enquiries about them? I lifted up mine Eyes to Heaven in uttering a deep Sigh; I entreated her to tell me, If 'twere known where Mendez and Henrietta were lost? Who has told you they are lost? replied she, they are at Seville, where they lead a very happy Life. Mendez has re-establisht his Affairs, and makes it his great Delight and Honour to publish in all places the Extream Obligations he has to Henrietta. Perhaps you are igno­rant, continued she, that Mendez was taken and made a Slave by the Algerines; this generous young Woman disguised her self, and came hither to redeem him, but he has not been ungrateful, for he has married her. There is a most charming Ʋnion between them. Hymen has not banisht Love in their particular.

As she was yet speaking, she perceiv'd my Countenance to alter on a sudden, and that I was ready to faint; my Strength fail'd me, mine Eyes closed, and I sunk down between her Arms; she was greatly troubled at this; she called my Compa­nions, who put me to Bed, and endeavour'd to recover me from this pitious Condition.

This young Woman greatly concern'd her self for me; and when I came to my self, I began to complain; I uttered Sighs and Groans, able to move a Rock.

Meluza was affected at the Recital of such a worse than bar­barous Instance of Treachery, and without any notice to me, he inform'd himself, by his new Slave of my Father's Name, and immediately wrote to him what he knew of my Misfor­tunes.

These Letters were like to have been the Death of my Mo­ther, she could not imagine I could be in Chains at eighteen Years of Age, without shedding a torrent of Tears: But that which augmented her Grief, was, the Disorder of my Father's Affairs; several considerable Bankrupts had ruined him; his Credit was gone, and it was impossible for him to procure the 20000 Crowns which Meluza demanded for my Ransom.

The Generous Marquess de Los Rios heard this News, came to my Father, and offered him what lay in his Power: I do not do this, said he, in design to force your Daughter's Inclinations [Page 80] when she shall be here; I shall love her always, but I will never displease her. My Father having no other way of Relief, thank­fully accepted of what was offered him; and in a word, em­barkt himself, and happily arriv'd at Argiers, in the time when I thought only of dying.

He forbore all those Reproaches I deserv'd; he redeem'd me, and at my Intreaty, this young Woman of Seville, for a mo­derate Ransom. We return'd together, and my Mother re­ceiv'd me with such Joy as is impossible to be exprest. I an­swer'd hereto as much as was possible; but I carried always in my Heart, Madam, the fatal Stroke which had wounded me: Whatever my Reason could represent to me, was not sufficient to eface out of my Remembrance the Image of the Traitor Mendez.

I saw the Marquess de Los Rios: he dared not mention the Inclinations he still had towards me; but I had such pressing Obligations to him, that Gratitude made me do for him, what my Inclinations would have made me do for another.

I gave him my Hand, and he his to me, with such Affection, as if he had had no solid Matter of Complaint against me.

In fine, I married him, and apprehending lest I should see Mendez, that Ungrateful Wretch, to whom I owe such Hor­rour, and for whom I had so little, I pray'd the Marquess we might dwell in the Country-house he had near Seville.

He ever approv'd of what I liked; he would have my Father and Mother retire; he less'ned the sad Condition of their Fortune, by considerable Liberalities: and I may truly say, there never was a greater Soul. Judge, Madam, of all the Reproaches I made my Heart for its not being so tender to him as it ought to have been: It was not in my power to forget Mendez, and I always felt new Regrets, when I learnt his Feli­city with the Unfaithful Henrietta.

Having past two Years in a continual watching over my self, that I might do nothing but what was agreeable to my Husband, Heaven depriv'd me of him, of this Generous Hus­band; and he did for me in these last Moments, what he had already heretofore done, giving me all he had, with such Testimonies of Esteem and Affection, as much enhanced the Price of the Gift: He made me the richest Widow of Anda­lousia, but he could not make me the Happiest.

I would not return to Seville, where my Parents would have had me been; and to avoid it, I pretended a Journey farther into the Country, to look after some part of my Estate. I set out; but there being a particular Fatality in whatever relates [Page 81] to me, in arriving at an Inn, the first Object which struck my sight, was the Unfaithful Mendez: he was in deep Mourning, and had lost nothing of whatever made me here­tofore fancy him too Lovely. It is impossible to express the Condition I was in, for endeavouring to get speedily from him, I found my self so weak and trembling, that I fell at his Feet. Although he knew me not at that instant, yet he earnestly en­deavour'd to raise me up; but the great Veil under which I was conceal'd, flying open, what became of him in seeing me? He remain'd no less confused than I was: he would have drawn near to me, but casting a furious Look on him: Darest thou, Perjured Wretch! said I to him, darest thou approach me! Art thou not afraid of the just Punishment of thy Perfidiousness? He was some time without answering me, and I was about leaving him when he stopt me: Confound and over-whelm me with Reproaches, Madam, said he to me: Give me the worst and most perfidious Names as is possible; they cannot be more than I deserve: But my Death shall soon revenge your Quarrel: I ought to die with Sorrow for having betray'd you; and if I regret any thing in dying, it is only the having one Life to lose, to expi­ate all the Crimes you can justly accuse me of. He appear'd to me much affected in ending these words; and would to Heavens his Repentance were really sufficient and true! I would not hazard a longer Conversation with him: I left him, disdain­ing to return him an Answer. And this Mark of Contempt and Slighting, was, without doubt, more sensible to him, than all the Reproaches I might have made him.

He had some time since lost his Wife, that Unfaithful Crea­ture, who had helpt him to Revolt against all the Offices of Love, Honour, and Gratitude. And from that time he fol­low'd me every-where: he was like a Complaining Shadow, ever fastned to my Feet; for he became so lean, pale, and chang'd, that he was no longer discernable. Heavens! Ma­dam, what Violence did I not offer my self, in continuing to ill Treat him: I found at last I wanted Strength to resist the Weakness of my Heart, and the Ascendant this Wretch had o­ver me. Rather than to commit so shameful an Offence, and to Forgive him, I parted for Madrid, where I have Relations, and sought among them a Shelter against the Violence of mine own Inclinations.

I was not there long but Mendez found me out: I must con­fess to you, I was not heartily displeas'd at his Attendance on me; but maugre my Inclinations towards him, I put on a firm Resolution to avoid him, seeing I could not sincerely hate [Page 82] him; and unknown to every Body, I took the Road to Burgos' where I am going to Cloyster my self with a Religious there, my Friend. I flatter my self, Madam, with the Hopes of finding more Rest there, than I have hitherto met with.

The Beautiful Marchioness here held her peace; and I testi­fied to her my particular Acknowledgments for the Favour she had done me: I assured her of the part I took in her Adven­tures: I conjured her to write to me, and to let me hear from her at Madrid; and she promised it me in the most obliging manner as is possible.

We found the next Morning we could not set out, it having snow'd all the Night, and no Path appearing on the Ground; but we wanted not Company to pass the time in Play and Dis­course. Having been three days with the Marchioness de Los Rios, without any Weariness at the length of the Time, through the pleasure I had of seeing and hearing her talk, (for she is one of the most lovely Women in the World:) We parted with a mutual Regret, and it was not without doubling our Promises of writing to, and seeing one another hereafter.

The Weather mended, and I continued on my Journey to Lerma: We had traverst dreadful Mountains, which bear the Name of Sierra de Cogollos, and it was not without great trou­ble we got thither: This Town is small; she has given her Name to the famous Cardinal de Lerma, Chief Minister to Philip III: it is from him that Philip IV. took the great Reve­nues he had receiv'd from the King his Master. Here is a Castle which I will see to Morrow, and of which I shall give you an Account in my next, I am told an Extraordinary Express is arriv'd, and will set out to Night: I will lay hold of this Op­portunity of sending to you, and ending this long Letter; for in truth I am tired both with the Way, and with Writing, but I shall never be weary of Loving you.

From Lerma, Mar. 5. 1679.

LETTER. V.

MY Last was so long, and I was so weary when I ended it, that I could not add some Particulars, which probably might not have been unwelcome to you. I proceed then (dear Kinswoman) ro re­count them, seeing you so much desire it.

I arrived late at Lerma, and resolved to tarry some time to see the Castle, which the Spaniards so highly esteem, that they prize it next the Escurial; and it is indeed a very fine place. The Cardinal de Lerma, Philip the Third's Favorite, was its Founder. It stands on the side of an Hill, and in your way to it you must pass through a spacious place, surrounded with Arches and Galleries about it. This Castle consists of four vast Piles of building, which makes a compleat Quadrangle of two Ranges of Porches within the Court, which are near as high as [Page 84] the Roof, and hinder the Apartments from Prospects on that side. The Windows of all the Chambers look forward into the Country; the Rooms are spacious, and the Lodgings very fine and curiously gilt. There are a prodigious number of them, and very well furnish't. Near the Castle you have a great Park which extends it self along the Plain, through which runs a Ri­ver, and several lesser Springs: On the side of the River, there are rows of great Trees, and not far hence a Wood, so that, I believe, in fine weather this is a delightful place.

The Keeper of the Castle ask't me, whether I would see the Religioses, whose Convent is adjoyning thereunto. I told him most willingly; so that he made us pass through a Gallery, at the end of which you meet with a Grate which reaches from top to bottom. The Abbess, having been advertised of it, came here with several Religioses, who were very entertaining, handsom, witty and young, and discoursing with great exactness of every thing. I was not weary of their Conversation, when a young Girl came and whispered the Abbess in the Ear, who afterwards told me there was a Lady of great Quality, who had retired in­to their House, being the Daughter of Don Mandrica de Lara, Count de Valine, and eldest Son to the Duke de Naxara; That she was Widow of Don Francisco Fernandez de Castro, Count de Lemos, Grandee of Spain, and Duke de Tauresano; that when she knew of French Ladies passing through Lerma, she was great­ly desirous of Entertaining them. I made answer, I should be glad of the honour of seeing her: Whereupon this young Girl was sent to her.

This Lady soon came in a Dress used by the Spaniards this hundred years; she had a kind of Pattins on, or rather Stilts, which made her look prodigious Tall, so that she was fain to lean on two persons shoulders when she moved. She leaned likewise on two Daughters of the Marquis del Carpio; one of them is of a very fair Complexion, which is rare in this Coun­try, and the others Hair is as black as Jet. Their Beauty sur­priz'd me, and they wanted only, in my mind, to be a little fat. But this is not reckon'd a Defect in this Country, where they fancy leanness so much, that they desire only to have Skin and Bone. The singular Dress of the Countess de Lemos, ap­peared to me so extraordinary, that I could hardly get mine eyes off of it. She wore a kind of black Sattin Gold embroider­ed Bodice, and buttoned with great Rubies of considerable value. This Bodice came down from her Neck just like a Doublet; her Sleeves were strait, with large Wings about her shoulders, and other Sleeves hanging as low as her Gown, which [Page 85] were fastned on each side with Roses of Diamonds; She had a dreadful Virdingal, which hindred her from sitting, other­wise then on the Ground. She wore a Ruff, and several Chains of great Pearls and Diamonds; her Hair was white, which she hid under a Coverture of black Lace, for she was no less than 75 years old. She seem'd to me to have been a great Beauty in her time; her face had not a wrinkle, and her eyes were still sparkling, and her white and red Paint became her very well: Her Wit and her Personage, as I have been told, were not a little famous in the World. I lookt upon her as a curi­ous Piece of Antiquity.

She told me she had the honour to Accompany the Infanta when she espoused Lewis the Thirteenth. That she became ac­quainted with the Prince of Conde when he was in Flanders, and the Queen of Sweden came thither. You have seen this Queen, said I to her, interrupting her, be pleased, Madam, to favour me with a Relation of some Particulars of her humor.

You must know then, said she, that the King of Spain sent Don Antonio Pimentel in quality of Ambassador to Stockholm, to discover, as much as in him lay, the Intentions of the Swedes. They had been long Enemies to the House of Austria, and it was not doubted but they would make new Attempts to thwart it, in the design of making the Emperour's Son King of the Romans; Pimentel was charged to carry on this Affair with great Circumspection. He was a gallant, witty and handsome Person, and he succeeded better than could be expected. He immediately discovered the Queen's Genius, and easily made himself her Confident. He soon perceived she was mightily charm'd with Novelties, and that of the crowd of Strangers which she drew to the Court, the last come was the most fa­voured. He made it his Task to please her, and gained so far on her Affections, that he became inform'd by her self of the most secret Affairs, and which she ought the most to conceal from him. But what cannot he do, who has found a way to the heart. The Queen's was so inclined to him, that he became the sole Disposer of the Affections of this Princess, and by this means was able to write to the Emperour, and to the Electors, things so certain and agreeable, as made 'em easily judge that the Queen of Sweedland's Council had no part in the Declaration she made in favour of the King of Hungary.

This Intrigue being at an end, 'twas thought the King would recal Pimentel, there appearing no occasion requiring the Pre­sence of an Ambassador: But if it were needless for the King of Spain that he should remain at Stockholm, 'twas not the same [Page 86] with the Queen, she neglecting nothing whereby to retain him near her. He attended her wherever she went since, and many, who were led by outward Appearances, judged when she left the Crown to her Cosin, she did it with great Satisfaction, be­cause she did it with dry Eyes, and had the Courage to harangue the States with great Force and Eloquence; but the People were greatly mistaken in the secret Motives of this Princess. Her soul at that time was pierced with the most lovely sorrow; she was not a little griev'd to yield to the Prince Palatine a Scepter which she thought her self worthy to wield alone, and of which she was the lawful Heiress.

This Prince had the Address to get it declared, that if she married she should choose him for her Husband.

Assoon as this Declaration was made, she began to feel the weight of the subjection wherein she was placed; and on the other hand, the People did not well relish the being governed by a Woman. They insisted more on her Defects than they minded her Vertues. The Prince contributed under-hand thereto, and the Queen, who was penetrating soon per­ceiv'd it; she observ'd the Inclination the People had to him, and the wishes which were made to see him on the Throne; she grew every day more and more jealous of this, and past from hence to such a deadly Hatred, that 'twas impossible for her to stop the Course of it. The Princes presence became so insupportable to her, that perceiving it, he withdrew into an Island which belong'd to him. But he set not out till he had left good Memoires to his Creatures against the Queen's Con­duct.

When she saw her self deliver'd from an Object, whose sight was so great an Eye-sore, she drew off her Mind from the too intent pursuit of the Affairs of the Kingdom, and gave way to her Inclinations to Books. Her marvellous Wit made, in a short time, admirable Progresses in the most profound Scien­ces; but these were not so needful to her as a good Conduct in the management of her Honour and Interest. It often hap­pens, that having spent several days in her Study, she would appear disgusted with her Books, saying, They were good for nothing but to waste the Spirits, and mislead Mens Judgments. When the Great Men of the Court saw her in this Disposition, they approacht her with more familiarity, and then the whole Business was to follow the Pleasures of Love, of Plays, Balls, Turneys, Huntings, and all other Diversions. She gave up her self entirely to them, and nothing cou'd bring her off them; but she added to this Defect that of enriching Strangers, at the Expence of her own Subjects.

The Swedes began to murmur at this; the Queen was ad­vertised of it; their Complaints appear'd to be unjust, and little respectful; and being not a little offended at them, she was so unwise as to take Vengeance on her self. In effect, at the time when 'twas least expected, and when she was in a Con­dition to find less violent Remedies, she abandoned at one stroak her Crown and Kingdom to her Cosin; to this Cosin, I say, whom she was so far from loving, that she wish'd him all the ill she was able; and yet to whom she did so much good, she thought 'twas impossible for any to penetrate into the Mo­tives of this. She pretended by this great stroak of Generosi­ty, to distinguish her self from among the Heroina's of the most famous Ages: But in effect, the Conduct she held afterwards, distinguish'd her only to her Disadvantage.

She was seen to set out from Swedeland in a very odd Dress for a Woman, with a kind of Justaucorps, a short Petticoat, with Boots and Cravat, in a Perriwig, a Hat covered with Feathers, and this Perriwig tied up in a lock behind which seem'd then very ridiculous. She forbad all her Women to fol­fow her, choosing only Men to serve her, and attend her. She was wont ordinarily to say, That she did not love Men as Men, but because they were not Women. So that she seem'd to have renounc'd her Sex in renouncing her States, altho she had sometimes such Weaknesses as wou'd have made the meanest Women ashamed.

The trusty Pimentel past over into Flanders with her, and I being then there, continues she, I saw him arrive; he procu­red me the honour to kiss her hand, and there needed no less than his Credit to obtain this; for she sent word to all the Ladies of Brussels and Antwerpt, she wou'd excuse them for their Visits. Yet she receiv'd me very well, and the little she said to me, appear'd full of Wit and extraordinary Vivacity; but she swore at every turn like a Souldier, and her Words and Acti­ons were so free, not to say so dishonest, that were it not for her Rank, her Person wou'd have been little regarded.

She spake before every Body of the passionate desire she had to see the Prince of Conde; that his great Actions had charm'd her, and that she was desirous to learn the Trade of War under him. The Prince had no less desire to see her, than she testified to see him. In the midst of this mutual Impati­ence, the Queen stopt on a sudden on some Formalities and Steps which she refused to take, when he shou'd come to sa­lute her. These Reasons hindred him from seeing her with the usual Ceremonies. But one day, when the Queen's Chamber [Page 88] was full of Courtiers, the Prince slipt therein; whether she had seen his Picture, or that his Martial Ayr had distinguish'd him from among others, she had singled him out, and knew him. She wou'd immediately hereupon have testifi'd as much to him, by extraordinary Civilities. He presently retired, and she follow'd to conduct him. Then he stopt, and content­ed himself with saying these words, Either All, or Nothing. Some few days after, an Interview was set on foot to be be­tween them in the Mall in the Park at Brussels, where they spake together with great Civility and much Coldness.

As to Don Antonio Pimentel, the Favours she has had for him, have, made noise enough to come to your Ears, and if you be ignorant of 'em, Madam, I believe I ought not to un­dertake to learn you the Particulars, of which perhaps I my self may have been ill inform'd. She held her peace, and I made my profit of this moment to thank her for complaisance in giving me an account of a Queen, who had ever giv'n me such a great Curiosity. She askt me afterwards, whether I had seen the Castle of Lerma. He that build it, said she, was Fa­vorite to Philip the Third, whose Death hapned very strange­ly. This Prince, continued she, was writing Letters in his Clo­set, and it being very cold that day, they had placed very near him a quick fire of Coals, whose reverberation struck so much on his face, that he was all in water, as if a great quanti­ty of it had been poured on his Head. The easiness of his tem­per hindred him from complaining, and even speaking of it; for he never found fault with any thing. The Marquis de Po­bar having observ'd the incommodiousness which the King re­ceiv'd by this extream heat, advertised the Duke d' Alva's Gen­tleman of his Chamber of it, to the end he might remove the Fire away: He replied, It was not his Office, and that the Duke Duesda ought to be made acquainted with it, whose pro­per Business it was. The Marquis de Pobar being troubled to see the King thus suffer, and not daring himself to ease him, for fear of invading another's Province, left the fire still in its place; but he sent to give notice of it to the Duke Duesda, who was by Misfortune gone near Madrid to see a stately House he was there building. Word was brought of this again to the Mar­quis de Pobar, who proposed again to the Duke de Alva the taking away the fire. But he found him inflexible hereunto, and chose ra­ther to send into the Country, to the Duke Duesda, so that be­fore he was come, the King was almost spent, and that very Night he fell into a violent Fever, accompanied with an Erisi­pellis, which inflamed, and the Inflamation degenerated into the Purples, which caused his Death.

I must confess, said she, that having seen when I was abroad in the World, other Courts besides our own, I cou'd not for­bear blaming these kind of Ceremonies and Punctilio's which hinder the taking of one step faster than another, thô life de­pended thereon. The old Countess of Lemo's lov'd to talk, and continuing her Discourse, and among other names mention'd that of the Count de Villa Mediana, I have heard, said I, inter­rupting her, that this Gentleman, being one day in the Church of our Lady d' Arocha, and finding there a Religio's, who begg'd for the Souls of Purgatory, he gave him a piece of four pounds. Ah my, Lord, said the good Father, you have now deliver'd a Soul. The Count drew out again alike piece, and put it into the Bason. Here's, continued the Religio, another Soul deli­vered: He gave him in this manner six, one after another, and at the dropping of each piece, the Monk cry'd Here's a Soul deli­vered from Purgatory. Will you be positive in it, reply'd the Count. Yes, my Lord, reply'd the Monk, I am certain they are now in Heav'n. Give me now then back again my six pieces, said, he, for they signifie nothing to you, seeing the Souls are already got to Heav'n, there's no danger of their returning again to Purgatory. It was as you relate, added the Countess, but he took not again his Money, for this wou'd have been among us an horrid Sacri­ledge. And I knew a man of good quality, who being much behind in the World, yet when he was dying, wou'd have fifteen thousand Masses to be said for him. His last Will was executed, and his poor Creditors defrauded; for how just soe­ver their Debts be, they can expect to receive nothing, till such time as all the Masses which are left in the Will be said. And this has given occasion to that common saying among us, That such a one has made his Soul his Heir; whereby is meant, that he has left his Estate to the Church to say Prayers for him.

King Philip the Fourth ordered in his Will an hundred thou­sand Masses to be said for him; farther declaring, That shou'd he cease needing them, they shou'd serve for his Father and Mother; and in case they were got to Heav'n, they shou'd be ap­plied to the Souls of those who were slain in the Wars of Spain.

But what I have already told you of the Count de Villa Me­diana, brings to my mind, that he being one day at Church with Queen Elizabeth, he saw a great deal of Money on the Altar, which was giv'n for the Souls in Purgatory. He drew near, and took it up in his hand, saying, My Love will last for ever, my Pains will be likewise Eternal, those of the Souls in Purgatory will have an end; alas, mine will never end! This hope comforts [Page 90] them; as for me, I am without hope and comfort, so that these Charities are more due to me, than they. However, he took nothing away, only speaking these words as an occasion to bring in his Passion before this beautiful Queen, who was there present: For in effect, his was so violent for her, that there is some reason to think she was not wholly insensible of it, if her rigid Virtue had not preserved her heart against the Count's Merit. He was young, well shaped, handsome, brave, magnificent, gallant and witty; every Body knows how he appeared to his Misfortune in a Carosel at Madrid, with a Suit embroidered with pieces of new Money, called Realles, and which he bore for a Device; ‘MIS AMORES SON REALES.’ making an allusion to the word Reales, which is to say Royal, with the Passion he had for the Queen. This is finer in Spa­nish, and signifies in English, My Love is Royal.

The Count Duke d' Olivarez, the Kings Favorite, and the secret Enemy of the Queen and the Count, made his Master take notice of the boldness of a Subject, who dared even in his Presence declare the Sentiments he had for the Queen; and in this moment he perswaded the King to be reveng'd on him. An occasion was waited for which shou'd make no noise. But here's what hastned his ruine; applying his Mind only to di­vert the Queen, he wrote a Comedy which every Body likes, and the Queen, more than others, found therein such moving and delicate stroaks in it, that she wou'd act apart in it her self on the King's Birth-day. It was the Amorous Count who ma­naged and took care of the Festival; he ordered the Cloaths, and provided Machines, which cost him above Thirty thou­sand Crowns. He had caused a great Cloud to be painted, un­der which the Queen was concealed in a Machine. He stood very near it, and at a certain sign he gave a Man who was faithful to him, he set fire to the linnen work of the Cloud. The whole House, valued at an hundred thousand Crowns, was in a manner consumed; but he comforted himself, when ma­king his advantage of this favourable Opportunity, he took his Soveraign in his Arms, carry'd her into a little by-place, and there stole from her some Favours; and that which is much taken notice of in this Country, is that he touched her foot. A little Page who saw him, inform'd the Count Duke of it, he did not doubt but when he saw the fire, but this was an [Page 91] effect of the Count's Passion. He made such an exact En­quiry, that he laid before the King certain Proofs of it; and his Proofs so greatly enraged the King, that 'tis pretended he caused him to be shot with a Pistol one night, as he was in his Coach with Don Lewis de Haro.

Here's a very Tragical end, said I to her, interrupting her; but whilst, said she, I am speaking to you of Philip the Fourth, I cannot but I must tell you, that he was vehemently in love with the Dutchess Dalburkerke. He cou'd never meet with a favourable opportunity of Entertaining her. The Duke her Husband kept strict guard over her, and the more Obstacles the King met with, the more his Desires increased; but when Night came, and when he was at play, he feign'd to call to mind he had a Letter to write of the greatest consequence. He call'd the Duke Dalburkerke, who was in his Chamber, and desired him to take his place, and continue his Game. He immediately hereupon entred into his Closet, disguised himself, and went down by a back Stairs, and came to the young Dutchess with the Count Duke his Favorite.

The Duke Dalburkerke, whose mind ran on his Domestick Interests more then on his Game, easily believ'd his Master wou'd not have committed it to him, without some secret De­sign. He began then to complain of an horrid Collick, and uttering Cries and making Faces enough to fright one, he gave the Cards to another, and without any stop run home. The King had only just arrived there without any Train, he was then in the Court, and seeing the Duke come he hid him­self; but there is nothing so clear sighted as a jealous Husband. He perceiv'd the King, and being not willing to have Lights brought that he might not be oblig'd to acknowledge him, he made up to him with a great Cane which he commonly walked with: Ha! Ha! Villain, said, he to him, thou comest to rob my House; and without more words he laid on him with all his strength. The Count Duke was no more spared, who fearing least worse might happen, cried, out several times, 'Twas the King, to stop the Duke's Fury: but this was so far from ef­fecting it, that he redoubled his blows both on the Prince and his Minister, crying in his turn, That this was a stroak of the greatest Insolence, to make use of his Majesty's Name and his Fa­vorites in such an occasion, that he could find in his heart to send 'em to the Palace, because he well knew the King would cause 'em to be hang'd. In all this Fray the King said not a word, and at length got away half mad, in having received so many blows, and not one favour from his Mistress.

This produced no ill Consequences to the Duke Dalburkerke; but on the contrary the King being cured of his Love to the Dutchess, made a Jest of it some time after. I know not whe­ther I do not abuse your patience by the length of this Con­versation, added the Countess de Lemos, and I fall insensible into the defect of persons of my Age, who forget themselves when they tell of things done in their time. I saw she was for retiring, and having again thankt her for the honour she had done me, I took my leave of her, and returned to my Inn.

The Weather was so foul, that we with great difficulty set out, but being resolv'd on it, we marcht as long as the day lasted, falling down and getting up as well as we cou'd. We cou'd hardly see four Paces before us, the Storm was so great, that it blew off several Stones off the Rocks, which fell into our way, and hurt one of our Company; he had been kill'd, had he not stept on one side. In fine, after having made about eight Leagues, according to our reckoning, we were much a­stonisht to find our selves at the Gates of Lerma, without ha­ving advanced or gone back. We had still turn'd about the Town, without perceiving it, as it were by Enchantment, sometimes farther, sometimes nearer, and we were all of us not a little out of humor at having taken so much pains to so little purpose.

The Hostess transported at the sight of us, she who cou'd have been glad with all her heart we shou'd thus Travel as long as we lived, to return to lye at her House every night, tarried for me at the top of her little Stair-case. She told me she was very sorry she cou'd not let me have my Room again, but wou'd give me another commodious enough, and that mine was ta­ken up by a Seignora, the greatest in Spain. Don Fernand askt her name, she told him, she was called Donna Eleonor of Toledo; he as soon inform'd me she was his near Kinswoman. He cou'd not comprehend by what chance she shou'd come there.

To be satisfied in the matter, he sent his Gentleman to make her a Complement, and to know whether his visit wou'd not be troublesome. She sent word she had a great Satisfaction at this happy Meeting, and that he wou'd do her a great deal of honour. He went up immediately to her Chamber, and was inform'd by her of several particulars which related to him. He came afterwards to me, and told me very civilly, That where not Donna Eleonar excessive weary and indisposed, she wou'd have given me the first Visit. I in short, desired him to conduct me to her Chamber, where she receiv'd me in a [Page 93] most obliging manner; and I observ'd in the first moment of our Conversation, that she had a great deal of Wit and Polite­ness. I found her very neat and handsome, her Eyes were lively and so glistering, that one cou'd not without pain endure their brightness. Don Fernand told her who I was, and that I went to see one of my near Relations at Madrid. Her name was not unknow to her, no more than her Person, she told me 'twas not long since the King had made her Titularia and Mar­chioness of Castille. I shou'd be greatly obliged to you, Madam, said I to her, interrupting her, if you wou'd be pleased to give me some Account of this title, she having mention'd it in her Letters, without explaining to me what it means, no more than that of Grandee, &c.

I shall take a pleasure to inform you of what I know, replied Donna Eleonora, and I have always heard, that in the time of the first Kings, Doviedo, de Galicia and Asturia, they were elected by the Prelates of the Kingdom, and by the Ricos-homes. These Lords having not yet obtain'd the Titles of Dukes, Marquisses and Counts, which distinguisht them from Gentlemen, they were call'd Ricos-homes, which were as the Grandees of Spain now. The Ricos-homes, stood covered before the King, en­tred among the States, and had their Active and Passive voice. And the Titulado's at present, are the same which were then call'd Ricos-homes; but their Priviledges are not so large, and most of these Honours, as I shall tell you, have been reserv'd to the Grandees of Spain. The Titulado's may have a Canopy or Cloth of State in their Chamber, a Coach in Madrid with four Horses, with los tiros largos, which are long Traces of Silk, which fasten the last Horses to the foremost. When there are Bull-Feasts, they have Balconies in the great place, where their Wives are regaled with Baskets full of Sweeetmeats, Gloves, Ribons, Fans, Silk-hofe, and this at the King or Towns charge, which gives the Feast. They have their Seat set out in the Ceremonies, and when the King makes a Titu­lado, Marquis of Castile, Arragon, or Grenada, he enters into the States of this Kingdom.

As to the Grandees, there are three different Ranks of them; and the manner in which the King speaks to 'em in making them, distinguishes them. The one are those whom he bids be covered, without adding any thing thereto; their Grandure is only fixt to their Person, and is not conserv'd to their Fa­mily.

The others, whom the King qualifies with the Title of one of their Lands; as for Example, Duke or Marquis of such a place, Cover your self, for you, and for yours, are Grandees in a more advantagious manner than the first, because their Gran­dure being fixt to their Estates, passes to their eldest Son, and if they have none, to their Daughter or Heir.

The last are not covered till after they have spoken to the King; and the difference between these is observ'd in saying, They are Grandees for Life, or in their Race. It is farther to be observ'd, That there are some whom the King makes be co­vered before they speak to him, in saying to 'em Cubridos; and they spake, and hear the King speak, ever covered. Others, who are only covered after they have spoke to him, and he has answer'd them. And the third, who are only cover­ed when they have withdrawn themselves from the King to­wards the Wall; but when they be altogether in publick Offices, or at Chappel, there is no difference between them, they sit down and are covered before him. And when he writes to them, he treats them as if they were Prin­ces, they have the Title of Excellency giv'n them. When their Wives go to the Queen, she receives them standing, and in­stead of sitting on the Footcloth, they have Cushions brought 'em to sit on.

Here's Madam, continued Donna Eleonora, what you desired to know; after due thanks for her Civility, the hour of with­drawing being come, I took my leave of her, entreating her to continue me in her Friendship.

I arose before day, because we had a great Journey to make to lye at Aranda de Duero. The Weather growing milder, it became very misty, which at length turned to Rain; and in arriving at Night, our Host told us we were very welcome to him, but we must make a shift without Bread. This is, re­plied I, a thing one cannot easily be without. And in effect, this News put me a little out of humour. I enquired how hapned this Scarcity; 'twas answer'd me, The Alcaid Major of the Town (who is he that orders every thing) and who is both Governour and Judge, had sent for all the Bread and Meal which was at the Bakers, and had brought it into his House to make an equal Distribution of it, proportionable to the Ne­cessities of each particular Person, and that what had occasi­on'd this, was that the River of Duero, which passes about the Town, was frozen, and the Rivers of Leon, Suegra, Burgos, Tormes and Salamanca, which throw and lose themselves there­in, had likewise ceased their Courses, so that no Mills cou'd [Page 95] grind, which made 'em apprehend a Famine: This oblig'd us to address our selves to him for to have the Bread we needed. Don Fernand sent him one of his Gentlemen in the Name of us all, and immediately we had so much Bread sent us, that we gave part to our Host and his Family, who much wanted it.

Scarce were we at Table, when one of my Servants brought into my Chamber several Packets of Letters, which they had found on the Stairs in the Inn. He that carried them having drank more than he needed, had fall'n there asleep, by which means all his Letters lay exposed to the Curiosity of all that past by. Here is in this Country a very ill order touching Commerce, and when the French Currier arrives at St. Se­bastian, all the Letters he brings are deliver'd to others who are good Footmen, and ease one another. They put these Packets into a Sack, tied with rotten Cords to their shoulders, by which means it oft happens, that the secrets of your Heart and Family are open to the first curious Body who makes drunk this Foot-post; and this is what hapned in this Occasion; for Don Frederic de Cardonne having lookt on the Superscriptions of several Letters, he at last met with one from a Lady in whom he was apparently interessed, at least I so judg'd from the emotion of his Countenance, and the earnestness with which he opened the Packet. He read the Letter, and was willing to shew it me without telling me from whom it came, nor for whom it was; but he promised to inform me fur­ther about it at Madrid; finding it well writ, it came into my mind, that you wou'd be perhaps glad to see the style of a Spa­nish Lady, when she writes to what she loves. I prayed the Knight to let me take a Copy of it; but 'tis certain the Translation takes away much of the beauty of the Original. Here it is.

EVery thing contributes to afflict me in the unfortunate Embassy you have undertaken, not to mention that distance is the bane of the strongest Friendship. I cannot flatter my self, that a Rup­ture between the Sovereigns, may abridge the time of your ab­sence, and restore me a Good without which I can no longer live. Of all the Princes of Europe, he to whom you are sent, is the most at Ʋnion with us. I can foresee no War with him, and this Scourge with which Heav'n punishes the guilty, wou'd be to me a thousand times more welcome than Peace: Yes, I wou'd be glad to bear alone all the Disasters of it, to see my Lands wasted, my Houses burnt, to lose my Estate and my Liberty, provided we cou'd be to­gether, and that without your share in my Disgraces, I cou'd enjoy [Page 96] the pleasure of seeing you; you may judge by these Dispositions of the Condition I am in, when I think that you are really going away, that I remain at Madrid, that I dare not follow you, that my Duty stiffes immediately the Projects I might make to comfort my self, and that I lose you, in fine, in a time wherein I have most rea­son to be perswaded of yours, and wherein I feel more the Marks you gave me of it; I shou'd conceal from you my Grief, and add none to yours; but how can I weep and weep without you. Alas, Alas! I shall be soon forc'd to weep alone, are you not affraid so lively an Affliction will kill me, and can you not feign your self sick, that you may not leave me; think of all the Advantages which are included in this Proposition; but I am a Fool to make it you, you will prefer the King's Orders before mine, and 'twou'd bring me into new Vexations to put you on such a proof. Adieu, I ask you nothing, because I have too much to ask you; I was never so afflicted.

As I ended the Translating this Letter which I send you, the Alcade's Son came to see me; he was a young man who had a good Opinion of himself, and who was a true Guap. Let not this word offend you, (dear Cosin) Guap is the same in Spanish, as a brave Gallant and Spark is with us; his Hair was parted on the Crown of his Head, and tied behind with a blew Ribond about four fingers breadth, and about two yards long, which hung down at its full length; his Breeches were of black Velvet, button'd down on each Knee with five or six Buttons; he had a Vest on so short, that it scarce reacht below his Pockets, a Scollopt Doublet with hanging sleeves about four fingers breadth, made of white embroidered Sattin. His Cloak was of black Bays, and he being a Spark, had wrapt it round his Arm, because this is more gallant, with a very light Buckler in his hand, and which has standing out in the midst a steel Pike; they carried it with 'em when they walk in the Night on any Occasion, he held in the other hand a Sword longer than an Half-pike, and the Iron for its Guard was enough to make a Breast and Back-plate. These Swords being so long that they cannot be drawn out, unless a Man has the Arms of a Giant; the Sheaf therefore flies open in laying the finger on a little Spring. He had likewise a Dagger, whose Blade was very nar­row, it was fastned to his Belt on his back; he had such a strait Collar, that he cou'd neither stoop nor turn about his Head. Nothing can he more ridiculous than what they wear about their Necks, for it is neither a Ruff nor a Band, nor a Cravat. His Hat was a prodigious size, with a great Band twisted about it, bigger than a mourning one. His Shoes were of as fine Leather as that whereof Gloves are made, and all slasht and [Page 97] cut, notwithstanding the cold, and so exactly close to his Feet, that they seem'd rather pasted on, and having no Heels. He made me in entring a Reverence after the Spanish fashion, his two Leggs cross one another, and lowly stooping as Women do when they Salute one another; he was strongly perfumed, and they are all so; his visit was not long; he was very brisk; he forgat not to tell me he went oft to Madrid, and that there were no Courses of Bulls wherein he ventured not his life. But as the little care which was taken of Letters, run in my mind, and troubled me; I told him of the Courrier whom my People had found asleep on the Stairs. He answer'd me, this hapned from the neglect of the great Post-master, or to speak better, in that he wou'd gain too much, and that if the King knew of it, he wou'd not suffer it. This Name of Great Post-master made me enquire of him, whether any one rode Post in Spain. He told me, yes; provided they had the King's leave, or of the Great-Master, who is always a Person of a distinct Birth; and that unless you have an Order well signed, and in good form, you can have no Horses. But, said I to him, A Man who has fought a Duel, or has other Reasons to hasten away; What does he? Nothing, Madam, said he to me, if he has good Horses he makes use of them; and if he has not, he is perplext enough; but when one will go Post, and parts not directly from Madrid, it is sufficient to take a Billet from the Alcade, which is to say, Governour of the Towns where you pass. My Curiosity being satisfied on this Subject, the gallant Spaniard withdrew, and we supt altogether, as we were wont.

I had been some time in Bed and asleep, when I was awaken­ed by the ringing of Bells, and by a confused Noise of dread­ful Voices. I knew not as yet what was the Cause, when Don Fernand de Toledo, and Don Frederic de Cardonna, without knocking at my Door, burst it open, and calling out to me, as loud as they cou'd to make me hear (for they had no Light) came both of them to my Bed, and throwing my Gown upon me, they carried me away, with my Daughter, as quick as they cou'd to the top of the House. It is impossible to repre­sent to you my astonishment and fear, I askt them at length, what was the matter? They told me the Thaw was come down all of a sudden, with such a great violence, that the Ri­vers, being swell'd by the Torrents which fell from all sides of the Mountains, with which the Town is surrounded, had fall'n on it, and overflow'd it, that at the instant when they came to take me, the Water had already got to my Chamber, and [Page 98] that all was in horrid Confusion, they needed say no more, for I heard dreadful Cries and Shrieks, and the Water shook the whole House. I was never so seized with Fear in all my life; I affectionately regretted my dear Country! Alas! said I, I have travell'd along way to come to drown my self on the fourth Story of an Inn in Aranda. All Raillery apart, I thought seri­ously my last hour was come, and I was so troubled, that I was twenty times thinking to entreat these Gentlemen to hear me in Confession. I believe that in the sequel they wou'd have more laught at it than I. We were till Day in continual Alarms; but the Alcade, and the Inhabitants of the Town so speedily and effectually bestir'd themselves in turning aside the Torrents, and making the Waters pass, that we were only affrighted; two of our Mules were drowned; my Litters and Cloaths were so soakt in Water, that to dry them, we were forc'd to tarry one whole Day; and this was no easie matter, for there are no Chimneys in the Inns, they heated the Oven, and put my Cloaths in it. I can assure you, I have not gained any thing in this unhappy Inundation: I lay down after this or to speak better, I bathed my self, my Bed being as wet as any thing else.

My fellow Travellers thought fit to let me rest a little; I have employ'd one part of my leisure time in writing to you. Adieu dear Cosin; it is time to finish: I am ever, more yours than any Bodies in the World.

From Aranda de Duero, this 9th of March.

LETTER VI.

THE Exactness I observe in giving you an Account of things which I judge worthy of your Curiosity, puts me often times on Enquiries into several Particulars which I shou'd have otherwise omitted, had you not perswaded me that you are a great Lover of Novelties, and that you love to Travel without going out of your Closet.

We parted from Aranda in a time of Thaw, which as it ren­dred the Air warmer, so it made the ways more troublesome. We came a while after to the Mountain de Samozierra, which parts the Old Castile from the New; and we Traverst it not without difficulty, as well for its height, as the quantity of Snow, with which the Bottoms were fill'd, and into which we sometimes fell as from Precipices, believing the way even. They call this Pass the Puerto, which Name methinks shou'd be only giv'n to a part, where one Embarks on the Sea, or a River; but it is thus, they call the Passage from one Kingdom to another, and you make your way to your Cost, for the King's Officers wait for Travellers in the Road, and let 'em not go till they have paid what they require.

In arriving at Buitrago, we were as wet as the night of the Inundation at Aranda, and tho' I kept my Litter, I felt no less the Incommodiousness of the Weather than if I had been on foot or Horsback, because the Litters are so ill closed and made in this Country, that when the Mules pass through any Water, they throw up with their Feet part of the Water into the Litter, which there remains. So that I was forced in ar­riving, to change my Linnen and Cloaths: afterwards Don Fernand, the three Knights, my Daughter, and my Women, went with me to the Castle I had been so often told of.

It appeared to me as regularly built as that of Lerma, not so large, but every whit as pleasant: The Apartments are better contriv'd, and the Furniture is richer and very singular as well for its Antiquity as Magnificence. This Castle, as well as that of Lerma, belongs to Don Rodrigo de Silva de Mendosa, Duke de Pastrana and de L'infantada. His Mother's Name is Donna Katherina de Mendosa & Sandoval, Heiress of the Dutchy's of Infantada and Lerma. It descends from Father to Son of Ruy Gomes de Silva, who was made Duke of Pastrana, and Prince of Eboly by King Philip the Second. This Princess d'Eboly, who has been so much talkt of for her Beauty, was his Wife, and the King was passionately in love with her: [Page 100] They shew'd me her Picture; she is represented at her whole length, sitting under a Tent fastned to some Boughs of Trees; she seems as if she were rising, for she has only a fine Linnen-cloth on her, which lets one part of her Body be seen. If she were as handsome as her Picture makes her, and if her Features were so regular, she must be judged the most charming Wo­man in the World; her Eyes are so lively and full of Spirit, that it seems as if she was about speaking to you; her Neck, Arms, Feet and Leggs are naked; her Hair falls down on her Breasts, and little Cupids which appear every where about her, press on one another to serve her, some had her Slippers, others are ready to strew flowers on her, and some hold her looking Glass. Others are seen farther off, who are sharpning their Arrows, whilst others fill their Quivers with them, and bend their Bow: A Fawn looks on her through Boughs, she sees him and shews him to a little Cupid, who is leaning on her Knees, and weeps as if he were afraid of it, at which she seems to smile. I remained a great while looking on this Picture with the greatest pleasure; but I was made to pass into a Gal­lery, where I saw her again. She was painted in a large Piece attending Queen Elizabeth, Daughter to Henry the Second King of France whom Philip the Second, King of Spain espoused, instead of giving her to Don Carlos his Son, to whom she had been promised. The Queen made her Entrance on Horseback, as 'tis the Custom, and I found the Princess Eboly less shining near her than she appeared to me when alone. You may hereby judge of the Charms of this young Queen; she had a blue Sattin Gown, but as to the rest, just as I represented to you the Coun­tess of Lemos. The King stood in a Balcony to see her pass by. He had a black Suit with a Collar of the Golden Fleece, his Hair reddish and gray, long visage, pale, old, wrinkled and ugly. The Infant Don Carlos accompanied the Queen, he was very white, a fine head, his Hair of a light yellow, his Eyes blue, and he lookt on the Queen with so moving an Air, that it ap­pear'd the Painter knew the secret of his heart, and wou'd ex­press it: His Habit was white, embroidered with precious Stones; he was in his Doublet, with his Hat botton'd upon one side, and covered with white Feathers. I saw in the same Gallery another piece which much affected me, which was the Prince Don Carlos dying, he was sitting in a Chair, leaning on his Arm on a Table before him, holding a Pen in his Hand, as if he would have wrote something; there was a Vessel by him, wherein appeared a sort of black Liquor, which appa­rently was design'd for Poyson. A little further you see the [Page 101] Bath preparing for him, where his Veins were to be opened; the Painter had perfectly well represented the Confusion of so sad an Occasion, and having read his History, and being much affected with it, methoughts I saw him really dying. I was told these Pieces were of inestimable value. I was afterwards conducted into a Chamber, whose Furniture had belong'd to the Arch-Dutchess Marguerita of Austria, Governess of the Low Countries; and it is pretended she had workt it her self, there is a neatly wrought Bed of Flowers, Woods, Animals, and Feathers of all Colours, the hangings are the same, and the different Colours therein do make a very agreeable shew. And this is what I found most remarkable in the Castle of Bui­trago, and it growing late we left it.

It was several days since I had the pleasure of seeing the play­ing at Hombre, I therefore caus'd the Cards to be brought. Don Fernand, with two of the Knights, began the Game, and I intrest my self, as I was wont, and Don Estreve de Carjaval did the like; so that after we had seen them play some time, I demanded of him to whom of the three Knights was the Commandership, whence they came when I met them. He an­swerd me, It did not belong to any one of them; that he had been to see one of their common Friends, on a vexatious Ac­cident which had hapned to him in Hunting. Falling on the Subject of Commanderships, I intreated him to inform me whe­ther the Orders of St. James, Calatrava, and Alcantara were ancient. He answer'd me, 'Twas above 500 years they had subsisted; that heretofore the Order of Calatrava was call'd the Gallant, that of St. James the Rich, and that of Alcantara the Noble. That which made 'em be call'd thus, was that or­dinarily there entred only young Cavaliers into Calatrava; that St. James's was richer than the two others, and that to be receiv'd a Knight of Alcantara, one must make his Proofs of four Races, whereas to enter into the others, there needed only two. In the first times, when these Orders were esta­blisht, the Knights made Vows, lived most regularly in Com­munity, and wore Arms only to Combat the Moors; but af­terwards the greatest Lords of the Kingdom entred into it, who obtained the liberty to marry, under this Condition, that they shou'd be obliged to demand an express Dispensation, from the Holy See, one must have the King's Letter, make his proofs of Nobility, and likewise prove he comes of old Christi­ans, which is to say, there have entred no Jews nor Moors into his Fathers and Mothers Family. Pope Innocent the Eighth gave in 1489. to King Ferdinand and his Successors, the dis­posal [Page 102] of all the Commanderships of these three Orders, which are call'd Military. The King of Spain disposes of them in ef­fect under the Title of Perpetual Administrator; and he enjoys three great Masterships, which bring him in above four thou­sand Crowns a year. When he holds a Chapter, as Great Master of the Order, or any other Assembly, the Knights have the Priviledge to sit and be covered in his Presence. Don Esteve added, That the Order of the Calatrava had 34 Com­manderships, and 8 Priories, valued at 120 thousand Ducals a year; that Alcantara had 33 Commanderships, 4 Alcaydies; and 4 Priories, which yielded 80 thousand Ducals, and that the 87 Commanderships of St. James, as well in Castille, as in the Kingdom of Leon, were valued at 272000 Ducats. You may hereby judge, Madam, continued he, that there are some helps for the poor Gentlemen of Spain.

I agree, said I to him, that this would be very advantageous for them, were they the only Persons admitted into these three Orders. But I think you now told me, that the greatest Lords possess the best Commanderships. This is by a general Rule, said he, that those who have much will have more, although there's the greatest Justice others shou'd have a share; and the eldest of great quality might have wherewith to satisfie them in obtaining the Order of the Fleece, which extreamly distin­guishes those whom the King honours with it. However, this being a Favour accompanied with no Revenue, and being not easily obtained, few People seek it, and you see ordinarily none but Princes have it. If you know who instituted this Order of the Fleece, said I to him, you will oblige me in informing me. It is pretended, replied he, that in the time when the Moors possest the best and greatest part of Spain, a pious Peasant, praying one day earnestly to God to deliver the Kingdom from these Infidels, perceived an Angel coming down from Heav'n who gave him a Fleece of Gold, and commanded him to make use of it to gather Troops, because at this sight he wou'd not be refus'd to be follow'd for the fighting the Enemy. This holy man obey'd; and several Gentlemen took up Arms in effect on what he told them.

The Success of this Enterprize answer'd the hope conceiv'd of it. So that Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, instituted the Order of the Golden Fleece, in the honour of God, of the Virgin and St. Andrew, in the year 1429. and the Day of his Marriage with Isabella Daughter to the King of Portugal, was chosen for this Ceremony. It was made at Bruges, it or­dained [Page 103] that the Duke of Burgundy shou'd be perpetual Chief of the Order, because St. Andrew is Patron of Burgundy. Those who have it are call'd Cavallero's del Tuzon, which is to say, Knights of the Fleece; and one may hence remark, that there is a dif­ference in relation to this Order, saying, when one speaks of the others, That such a one is Knight of the Order of St. James, or the Order of Calatrava.

In the time when we were thus talking, we heard a noise, as of a Coach and Attendants that stopt, not long after, Don Frederic de Cardona's Valet de Cambre entred into my Chamber, to tell his Master, that the Arch-bishop of Burgos was arriv'd.

This is an unhappy Encounter for me, said he, for I parted expresly from Madrid to see him; and having not found him at Burgos, I was not a little troubled at it.

Fortune is always on your side, said Don Sancho smiling to him, but not to retard the pleasure of seeing this Illustrious Kinsman, we will leave off our Game. Don Fernand and Don Sancho arose. Undoubtedly, says Don Esteve, Don Frederic will not be of our Company this Night. I am of another mind, replied Don Fernand; the Archbishop is one of the most obliging Persons in the World, assoon as ever he knows here's a French Lady, he will give her a Visit. He will do me a great deal of ho­nour, answer'd, I but yet I shall be a little perplext, for we must sup and go to rest betimes. I had scarce ended these words, when Don Frederic return'd again.

As soon as ever the Archbishop knew there was a strange Lady at Buytrago, said he to me, he no more minded me; and if you please, Madam, he will come and offer you whatever de­pends on him in this Country.

I answer'd this Civility as I ought; and Don Frederic being return'd to him, conducted him a while after into my Chamber. I found him extraordinary civil, he spake little, and observ'd the gravity befitting his Character, and the Spanish Nation. He much bewailed my making so long a Journey in so rigorous a Season, entreating me to lay my Commands on him in something wherein he might obey me. This is the usual Complement in this Country; he had a long Cassock over his other Cloaths of pur­ple Velvet, with high ruffled Sleeves, which reacht to his very Ears, and a pair of Spectacles on his Nose.

He sent for a little Monkey, which he wou'd needs give my Daughter; and though I was troubled at it, I cou'd not resist his Instances, and the Desires my Daughter had of accepting it. Every time the Archbishop took Tobacco, which he often did, this little Ape reacht out his Paw to him, and he put [Page 104] some on it, which he made as if he wou'd take. This Prelate told me the King of Spain expected with extream impatience the Answer of the Marquis de Los-Balbares, on the Orders he had giv'n him on the Demand of Madamoiselle from the French King. If his most Catholick Majesty's Greatness be consider'd, continued he, this Marriage must needs be esteem'd very ho­nourable; for when the Sun goes down in one part of his Do­minions, it rises again in another. And this Monarch enjoys not alone his Grandure, he has the pleasure of sharing it to his Subjects, he is in a Condition to recompence them, to make them happy, to put them into high places, where their whole Ambition is satisfied, wherein they receive the same Honour as Soveraigns; and is not this what a King ought to wish, to be in a Capacity to recompence magnificently the Services which are rendred him, and force even an unthankful Person to become grateful. It is a surprizing thing, the number of Employs for Men of the Sword and the Gown, which his Majesty every day bestows.

Several Persons have spoken to me of this, as you do, my Lord, said I to him, but I hope to be perfectly instructed in it at Madrid. I am able to inform you, at least in part of what you wou'd know, replied he; some Reasons have oblig'd me to take a little Abstract, and which I think I have about me. He immediately delivered it to me; and having kept the Copy of it, and it appearing curious to me, I shall therefore hear, dear Cousin, translate it for you.

Vice-Royalties which depend on the King of Spain.

Naples, Sicily, Arragon, Valantia, Navarre, Sardagnia, Ca­talonia, and in the New Spain, Peru.

Governments of Kingdoms and Provinces.

The States of Flanders, Milain, Galicia, Biscay, the Isles of Majorca and Minorca. Seven Governments in the West-Indies; to wit, the Isles of Madera, Cape Vert, Mina, St. Thomas, Angola, Bresil, and Algarves. In Affrica, Iseuta, Maragan; in the East the Philippia Islands.

Bishopricks and Archbishopricks in the most Catholick King's Nomi­nation, since Pope Adrian the Sixth, yielded his Right of No­mination.

First in the two Castilles the Archbishoprick of Toledo, whose Archbishop is Primate of Spain, Great Chancellor of Castille, and Counsellor of State. He speaks to the States, and in the Councel, [Page 105] immediately after the King; and he is usually consulted in all important Affairs. He has three hundred and fifty thousand Crowns a year, and his Clergy four hundred thousand.

The Archbishop of Braga in Portugal, who is Spiritual and Temporal Lord of the City, and who for a Mark of his Au­thority, carries his Crosier in his hand, and his Sword by his side, pretends to the Primacy of all Spain, and disputes it with the Archbishoprick of Toledo, because this Primacy was hereto­fore held at Seville, afterwards Translated to Toledo, by rea­son of the Invasion of the Moors, and that Toledo being fall'n into their hands, it was Translated to Braga, so that the Arch­bishop long possest this Dignity; but after the Spaniards had retaken Toledo, the Archbishop re-demanded his Primacy, he of Braga wou'd not consent to restore it; and this Difference being not yet terminated, they both assume this Title.

The Archbishoprick of Seville is worth 350 thousand Ducats, and its Chapter above an hundred thousand. Nothing can be seen finer than this Cathedral. Among other remarkable things, there is a Tower built with Brick, near 200 foot large, and above an 100 in heighth. Another Tower is rais'd above it, which is so well contriv'd within, that a Man may ride up on Horseback to the top of it. The outside is all painted and gilt.

The Archbishoprick of St. James's de Compostella is worth near sixty thousand Ducats, and its Chapter an 100 thou­sand.

• The Archbishop of Grenada is valued at 40000 Ducats.
• That of Burgos near as much.
• The Archbishop of Sarragossa 50000.
• The Archbishop of Avila 20 thousand Ducats a year.
• The Archbishoprick of Valencia 40 thousand.
• The Bishoprick of Astorgas 12 thousand.
• Bishoprick of Cuensa more than 50 thousand.
  • Of Cordoua about 40 thousand.
  • Of Siguensa the same.
  • Of Segovia 25 thousand.
  • Of Calahorra 20 thousand.
  • Of Salamanca something more.
  • Of Placentia 50 thousand.
  • Of Palentia 25 thousand.
  • Of Jaca above 30 thousand.
  • Of Malaga 40 thousand.
  • Of Osma 22 thousand.
  • Of Zamora 20 thousand.
  • Of Coria 20 thousand.
  • Of Ciudad Rodrigo 10 thousand.
  • Of the Canary Island 12 thou­sand.
  • Of Lugo 8 thousand.
  • Of Mondenedo 10 thousand.
  • Of Oviedo 20 thousand.
  • Of Leon 22 thousand.
  • Of Pampelune 28 thousand.
  • Of Cales 12 thousand.
  • Of Orensa 10 thousand.
  • Of Onguela 10 thousand.
  • Of Almeria 5 thousand.
  • [Page 106]Of Guadix 90000 thousand.
  • Of Tuy 4 thousand.
  • Of Badajoz 18 thousand.
  • Of Vailladolid 15 thousand.
  • Of Huesca 12 thousand.
  • Of Tarazona 14 thousand.
  • Of Balbastro 7 thousand.
  • Of Albarvacin 6 thousand.
  • Of Tervel 12 thousand.
  • Of Jaca 6 thousand.

I ought not to omit observing, That the Cathedral of Cor­dua is extraordinary stately; 'twas built by Abderhaman, who ruled over all the Moors in Spain. It serv'd them for a Mosque in the year 787. But the Christians having taken Cor­doua in 1236. they made a Church of this Mosque. It has 24 great Gates, all of 'em carv'd with Ornaments of Steel; its length is 600 foot, and 50 wide. It is perfectly well pro­portion'd, and sustained by 850 Pillars, the greatest part of which are of Jasper, and the others of black Marble, of one foot and an half Diametre. The Roof is admirably well painted; and one may hence judge of the magnificent humor of the Moors.

It is hard to believe, after what I have written of the Ca­thedral of Cordoua, that that of Leon is yet more considerable. Yet nothing is truer; and this is what has giv'n occasion to what is commonly said, That the Church of Leon is the finest in all Spain, the Church of Toledo the richest, that of Seville the greatest, and that of Salamanca the strongest.

The Cathedral of Malaga is admirably well set forth, and justly proportion'd; the Desks in the Quire hath cost 105 thou­sand Crowns, and all the rest answers this Magnificence.

• The Archbishoprick of Tarragone.
• The Archbishoprick of Barcelona.
• The Bishoprick of
  • Lerida.
  • Ʋrgel.
  • Gironne.
  • Vique.
  • Salsona.
  • Tortosa.
  • Elm.

• The Archbishoprick of
  • Brindes.
  • Lanciano.
  • Matera.
  • Otrante.
  • Rocli.
  • Salerna.
  • Trani.
  • Tarante.
• The Bishoprick of
  • Ariano,
  • Acerra.
  • Aquila.
  • Costan.
  • Castelamare.

• The Bishoprick of
  • Gaeta
  • Galipoli.
  • Gniovenazzo.
  • Mofula.
  • Monopoli.
  • Puzzol.
  • Potenza.
  • Trivento.
  • Tropea.
  • Dugento.

• The Archbishoprick of
  • Palerma.
  • Monteral.
• The Bishoprick of
  • Girgento.
  • Mazara.
  • Messina.
  • Parti.
  • Cefalu.
  • Catania.
  • Zaragoza.
  • Malte.

• The Archbishoprick of Milan.
• The Bishoprick of Vigevano.

• The Bishoprick of Majorca.

• The Archbishoprick of
  • Cagliari.
  • Oristan.
  • Sacer.
• The Bishoprick of
  • Alguerales.
  • Boza.
  • Ampurias.

• The Bishoprick of Tanger.
• The Bishoprick of Ceuta.

• The Archbishop of Goa.
• The Bishoprick of
  • Madera.
  • Angola in the Tercere Isles,
  • Capoverde.
  • St. Thomas.
  • Cochin.
  • Malara.
  • Maliopor.
  • Macao.

From all the Archbishopricks and Bishopricks there comes no­thing to the Pope from the Bishop that dies, nor whilst the Benefice is Vacant. It will be a hard matter to recite the num­ber of Abbies and other Dignities to which the King of Spain presents.

We shall now mention the six Archbishopricks, and the thirty two Bishopricks of New Spain, of its Isles, and of Peru.

The Archbishoprick of the City of Los-Reyes, Capital of the Province of Peru, is valued at near 30 thousand Crowns a year.

• The Bishoprick of
  • Arequipa 16 thousand.
  • Truxillo 14 thousand.
  • St. Francisco de Quito 18000. the great Town of Curco. 24 thousand.
  • St. John of Victory 8000.
  • Panama 6000.
  • Chile 5000.
  • of our Lady of Chile 40000.
• The Archbishoprick of
  • Bogota in the Kingdom of Grenada 14000.
  • Popaya 5000.
  • Cartagena 6000.
  • St. Maria 18000.

The Bishoprick of Plata in the Province of Los Charcas six­ty thousand. The Archdeacon of this Bishoprick has 5000, the Master of the Children of the Quire, the Chaunter, and Treasurer, each 4000. Six Canons, each 3000. Six other Dignities valued each at 1800 Crowns. And one may observe by the Riches of the Chapter of Plata, that the others have not much less.

The Archbishoprick of La Plata has for Suffragans,

• The Bishoprick of
  • Paz.
  • Tucuman.
  • Santa Cruz de la Sierra.
  • Paraquay de Buenos Ayres.
  • Del Rio de la Plata.

The Archbishop of St. James, in the Province of Tutuman, is worth 600 Crowns.

The Bishoprick of S. Lawrence de Las Barrancas 12000.

• The Bishoprick of
  • Baraguay 16000.
  • La Sante Trinite 15000.

The Archbishoprick of Mexico, erected in 1518 Twenty Thousand Reales.

The Bishoprick of Los Angelos Fifty Thousand Reales.

The Bishoprick of Valadolid, of the Province of Mechoacan, 14000 Crowns.

• The Bishoprick of
  • Antequera 7000.
  • Guadalaxara, Province of the new Galicia 7000.
  • Durango 4000.
  • Merida [...], Capital of the Pro­vince of Yucatan, 8000.
  • Gantiago, in the Province of Guatamala, 8000.
  • Santiago of Leon 3000.
  • Chiapa 5000.

The Archbishoprick of St. Domingo of the Spanish Islands, Primate of the Indies 3000.

• The Archbishoprick of
  • St. Juan de Porto-Rico Fifty Thousand Reales.
  • the Isle of Cuba 8000.
  • St. Anna de Coro 8000.
  • Camayagua, Capital of the Province of Hunduras 3000.

The Arch-Bishoprick Metropolitan of Manila Capital of the Philippin Islands, 3000 Crowns, which the King is obliged to pay him by the Bull granted in 1595. The King likewise pays the Chapter the same sum. This Arch-Bishoprick has three Suffragans, one in the Isle of Cebu, the other in that of Luzon, and the third in Comorina.

Having read the Memorandum which the Arch-Bishop of Bur­gos gave me, and made it to be copyed out, he withdrew, praying me that I would give him leave to send his Olio to me, because 'twas ready, and that I could not get any thing better for my Supper. I thank'd him, and told him, the same Rea­son obliged me to refuse it, seeing without it he would make as bad a Supper as we.

Yet Don Frederick de Cardona was already gone to fetch it and he returned laden with a great Silver Pot; but he was much surprized in finding it fastned with a Lock: This is usual in Spain; he would needs have the Key of the Cook (who taking [Page 111] it ill that his Master would not eat his Olio) answered, he had unfortunately lost the Key in the Snow, and knew not how to open it. Don Frederic vext at this, would against my will, go and acquaint the Arch-Bishop with it, who ordered his Ma­jor Domo to look after it; he threatned the Cook, and the Scene past so near my Chamber, that I heard it all, but that which I liked best were the Cook's Answers, who said, No puedo padecer la rina, siendo Christiano viejo, hidalgo come el Key y poco mas, which is to say, I cannot bear the being repri­manded, who am of the Race of Old Christians, who are Noble as the King, and something more.

It is commonly at this rate the Spaniards value themselves: This same Blade was not only vain-glorious, but obstinately conceited: and whatever could be done or said to him, he would not deliver the Key of the Pot, so that the Olio remain'd in it untouch'd for us. We went to Bed late, so that not ri­sing very early, all that I could do before I set out, was to finish this Letter, and to Morrow I shall begin another, where­in you shall be informed of the rest of my Travels.

From Buitrago, this 13th. of March, 1679.

LETTER. VII.

WE can easily perceive that we are not far from Madrid, the Weather is fair notwithstanding the Season, and we have no more need of Fire; but it seems very strange to us, that in the Inns which are the nearest to this great Town, you are worse used than in those which are an hundred Leagues di­stant; you would think you came rather into Desarts, than near a Town where resides so great a Monarch; and I can assure you (dear Cosin) that in our whole Course, I have not met with an House or Castle that has pleased me; I am much amazed at it, for I thought that in this Country as in ours, I should find fine Walks, and curious Seats, whereas you can scarcely see any Trees, save some few which grow in spight of the Soil: And at this time, when I am but Ten Leagues from Madrid, my Chamber stands even with the Stable; it is an Hole that needs a Light at Noon, but what kind of Light think [Page 112] you? better have none at all; for this is a Lamp which banishes all Chearfulness by its glimmering light, and your Health by its stinking scent: and go you where you will, tho' to the Curate of the Parish for a Candle, you will not find one, and I doubt much whether there be any in his Church. Here every where a sad Scene of Poverty presents it self to your sight; Don Ferdi­nand de Toledo, who took notice of my Astonishment, assured me I should see very fine things at Madrid; but I could not forbear telling him, I could not easily imagine it: It is true, the Spaniards bear up under their Indigency with such an Air of Gravity as would cheat one, the very Peasants telling their steps as they walk; they are mightily inquisitive after News, as if their whole Being depended thereon; I have had many of 'em come into my Chamber without any Ceremony, and without Cloaths on their backs, or Shoes on their Feet, entreat­ing me to tell them what I knew of the Court of France; af­ter I had spoke to them, they have examined what I have said, and argued on it among themselves in such a manner, as shewed great sense, and a lively apprehension: This Nation has ever had something extraordinary among them above others.

There came to see me among others one of the Townsmen's Wives, a good likely Woman; she carry'd her Child in her Arms, which was a dreadful lean one; he had above an hun­dred little hands like those of Joynted Babies hanging about his Neck, and on all sides of him. I askt his Mother what this meant? She answered me, this was good against Evil Eyes. How, said I to her, do these little hands hinder one from any Distemper of the Eyes? Undoubtedly, replied she, but not as you mean; for you must know if you please, there are Peo-in this Country, who have such a Poyson in their Eyes, that in looking steadfastly on a Person, and especially on a young Child, they make him pine away to death. I saw a Man who had an Evil Eye, and doing mischief when he lookt with this Eye, he was obliged to cover it with a great Plaister: As to the other Eye, it had no Malignity, yet it sometimes hapned that being with his Friends, when he saw a great many Fowls together, he would say, choose which of these you would have me kill. He was shewed one, he took off his Plaister, lookt fixedly on the Fowl, and a while after she turn'd several times round as giddy, and fell down dead. This Woman likewise would per­swade me there are Magicians, who looking on any one with an Evil intention, strikes them with such a Languishment, as makes 'em become lean like Skeletons; and her Child, she told me, has been struck in this manner, and the common Remedy [Page 113] is these little hands. She moreover told me, it is the custom, when they see any one look attentively upon them, and the Party has a look ill enough to fear she should give the Evil d' Ojos (it is thus called, because it is done by the Eyes) to pre­sent her own of these Hands, or even her own shut, and to say to her Toma la mano, which is to say, Take this hand; to which the Party suspected must answer, Dios le benediga, God bless you, which if she does not, she is judged to be ill intention­ed, and thereupon he or she may be denunciated to the Inquisi­tion; or if you be the stronger, you may beat them till they say Dios le benediga.

I do not assure you as a thing certain, that the Relation of the Fowls is positively true; but this is certain, that they are here strongly perswaded there are Persons who can do you hurt by bare looking on you, and here are even Churches to which they go in Pilgrimage to be cured of it. I askt this young Woman if there appeared nothing extraordinary in those they call mis­chievous Eyes; She told me no; except that they are full of such a shining Vivacity, that they seem to be all on fire, and would make one think they will pierce you like a Dart. She moreover told me, that of late the Inquisition had caused an Old Woman to be seiz'd on, who was accused to be a Witch, and she believed 'twas she who had put her Child in that piteous condi­tion I saw it. I askt her what they would do to this Woman; she told me if there were Proofs strong enough, she would be infallibly burnt, or left in the Inquisition; and that the best treatment she could choose would be to be delivered thence by being whipt along the Streets; That these Witches are tied to an Asses Tail, or that they are placed on these Beasts coif'd with a Paper Mitre painted with all colours, with Writings which denote the Crimes they have committed: That in this fine Equipage they are led about the Town, where every one has the liberty to strike them, or throw dirt at them. But, said I to her, how know you their condition would be worse if they remain'd still in Prison? O Madam, said she to me, I see you are not yet inform'd what the Inquisition is; whatever can be said of it, comes not near the Rigours exercised therein: You are seiz'd on, and thrown into a Dungeon; you lye there two or three Months, sometimes more, and sometimes less, without a word being said to you; at the end of this time you are led before the Judges, who with a terrible look ask you why you are there? It is Natural to answer, you know not. They say no more to you, but send you back again to this dismal Hole, wherein is every day suffered a thousand times more [Page 114] trouble than Death it self; yet you are not suffered to dye there, but remain many times a Year in this condition. At the end of this time, you are brought again before the same Judges, or before others, for they change, and go into several Countries; these demand of you again, why you are detained? You An­swer, you have been Apprehended, but you know not for what. You are sent again into your Dungeon without any more words. In short, sometimes you pass over your whole Life there. And demanding of her, if it were the Custom for one to accuse himself, she answered, that as to some Persons, 'twas the best and shortest way; but that the Judges held only this course with those against whom they had no certain Proofs: for com­monly, when any one accuses a Person of Capital Crimes, the Accuser was wont to remain in Prison with the Criminal, and this is the reason of their being a little more moderate. She related to me the particular punishments, and the whole manner of them, with which I will not fill this Letter, nothing being more dreadful. She moreover told me, she knew a Jew named Ishmael, who was put into the Prison of the Inquisition of Seville, with his Father, who was a Rabbin of their Law. It is four years since they were there, when Ishmael, having made an hole, climb'd up to the top of a Tower, and making use of Ropes he had provided, he slid down along the Wall with a great deal of danger; but having got down, he re­proach'd himself for having abandoned his Father, and with­out considering the Risk he ran after more than one manner, seeing his Father and he were condemned, and were to be led in a few days to Madrid with several others, to suffer there the greatest Torment; yet this hindred him not from deter­mining himself, he generously climb'd up the Tower, descend­ed into the Dungeon, drew thence his Father, made him es­cape before him, and got away himself. I found this Action very brave, and worthy to be set as an Example to Christians in an Age wherein, the most indispensible Obligations are slight­ed. I continued entertaining my self with this Spanish Wo­man, when Constance, one of my Women, whom you know, came to tell me with great earnestness, that she now saw Mon­sieur Daucourt, and that if I would, she would step out and call him: This is a Rich Gentleman, whom I knew at Paris, a civil Man, and of good Sense, and of comely Personage: I knew he had a Brother at Madrid, belonging to Don Juan of Austria. Having shewed I should be glad to speak with him, Constance went out in quest of him, and brought him to me. After the first Civilities, and informing my self of the News [Page 115] of my Kinswomen whom I believed he knew, I askt him of his own Affairs, and whether he was content with his Journey. Ah, Madam, speak to me no more of my Journey, cry'd he, there was never a more unfortunate; and had you come some days sooner, you might have seen me hang'd. How, said I to him, what do you mean by this? I mean, said he to me, that I had all the fear of it, and that this is the most unpleasant Country in the World for Strangers: But, Madam, if you are at leisure, and would know more, I will relate to you my Adven­ture. It is singular, and will fully prove to you what I have told you. You will do me a great deal of pleasure, said I to him, we are here in a place where such a Relation will much divert us; he began it then in this manner.

Some Affairs wherein I was concerned, and the desire of seeing a Brother whom I had been away from some years, obliged me, Madam, to undertake this Journey to Madrid: I was little acquainted with the Customs of that place, I ima­gin'd one might go to Women without difficulty, and that one might play and eat with them; but I was astonish'd to learn, that every one of them is more retired in her House, than a Carthusian in his Cell; and that there are Persons who have been mutually in Love for two or three years, and yet had ne­ver spoke to one another. Such singular Manners seem'd ridicu­lous to me, I said thereupon freely whatever came into my Head; but I treated the matter more seriously, when I understood these Women who were so closely confin'd, were the most amiable Women in the World; that they had such a Delicacy, Vivacity, and Manners, as are no where to be met with but among them; that Love always appeared new, that no one would change a Spanish Woman but for another. I was in the greatest despair at the difficulties there were to get at them. One of my Friends, named Belleville, who was my Compa­nion in my Journey, and who is a brisk Lad, was no less trou­bled on his side than I on mine: my Brother, who fear'd lest some vexatious Accident should befal us, continually inculca­ted into us how Jealous Husbands are in this Country; great Murtherers, and no more valued the killing of a Man than a Fly. This did not agree very well with two Men who were not as yet weary of living.

We went into all parts where we thought we might see La­dies; we saw some in effect, but this did not satisfie us, all the bows and cringes we made 'em brought forth nothing; we each of us return'd home every Night very weary and disgusted at our fruitless Circuits.

One Night Belleville and I went upon Design to the Prado, which is a Walk adorn'd with great Trees, and several Foun­tains, they throw their Water a great heighth, and in great gushes it falls into Basins, from whence it runs (when they have a mind) into the Courts to Water them, and so to make them fresh and pleasant. It was the finest Weather this Evening that one could wish. After we had light out of our Coach, and sent it away, we began to walk softly, and having made a few turns, we sat us down on the side of one of the Fountains, and then began to make our usual Complaints. Dear Belleville, said I to my Friend, shall we never be so happy to meet with one of these Witty and Charming Spanish Women, so much boasted of? Alas! says he, I desire it too much, but dare not hope it: Hitherto we have met with nothing but such ugly Creatures, as run after Folks to fright them, and who under their white Vails are more Tauny and Loathsom than the Bohemians; such as these, I swear to you, do not please me at all, and notwithstanding their sprightfulness, I cannot consent to enter into a very near conversation with them.

At the very instant these words were out of his Mouth, we spy'd coming out of a Door hard by, two Women; they had left off their upper Garments, which were always very plain; and when they open'd their Manta's, the light of the Moon made the glory of their Gold and Precious Stones appear. As God's true, cries out Belleville, here's at least two Fairies. Nay, said I, let's be juster, and think them not other than two Angels. When they came near us, we stood up, and made them the lowest Bow that ever we did in our lives. They past by us softly, and with those little Apish Tricks, which become the Spaniards so well, they lookt at us, first with one Eye, and then with t'other. They went on a little; we were in pain what to think, whether they would return back the same way, or whether we should follow them; but while we were deliberating, we perceiv'd them to approach us; when they were near us, they stood still, one of them began to speak, and askt us, if we could speak Spanish. I see by your Habits, said she, that you are strangers. But pray tell me of what Country are you? We told her we were Frenchmen, and that we spoke Spanish ill enough, but we had a great mind to learn to speak it well: That to succeed therein, we were perswaded we must love a Spanish Woman, and we heartily wish'd we might find one that desir'd to be belov'd. The matter is nice, reply'd the other Lady, which had not yet spoke, and I should be sorry for her who engages in such a Design, [Page 117] for I have heard that Frenchmen are not Faithful. Oh! Ma­dam, says Belleville, this was some body which had a mind to do us an ill turn, and put us out of your good opinion, but it will be easie to wipe off this Aspersion. Though I may soon give my Heart to a pretty Woman, yet I am very sen­sible I cannot so easily call it back again. What! says she that spoke to me before, dare you without further considerati­on, enter into such an Engagement at first sight? I should not have quite so good an Opinion of you. Oh! Madam, cries he, why should we lose precious Time? If it is good to love at all, it is good to begin as soon as 'tis possible: Hearts that are born to Love, languish and decay when they are not exer­cised therein. Your Maxims are fine, reply'd she, but they seem dangerous; it is not only necessary to avoid following of them, but even the hearing of them; and then indeed they would have been gone, but we beg'd them with great earnestness to tarry a few moments longer in the Prado. We said all the pretty things to them both, which might oblige them to dis­cover themselves, and give us the satisfaction of seeing them without their Vails. Our Conversation was very brisk, and pleasant enough: they had abundance of Wit; and as they knew how to manage all their Advantages, so without affecta­tion, they shew'd us their Hands as they had occasion to mend the sitting of their Head-dresses, and they were whiter than the Snow. In spight of their seeming care to hide themselves, yet we saw enough to observe their delicate Complexion, their brisk Eyes, and their Features very regular. You may be sure we left them as late as we could, and that we conjur'd them to make that Walk happy sometimes with their Presence, or else give us leave to wait on them at their House. They agreed to nothing; and indeed, we were several times after that at the Prado, and near that Fountain where the first saw them, without being able to perceive them. Here's a deal of time lost, said we; what must we do to pass our Lives in this great want of Employment, for we must renounce the thoughts of Ladies, whose Access is so difficult? This was our Resolution, but it held not long, for scarcely had we made it, but we see come out of the same House the two Incognito's. We drew near them, full of Respect, and our civil Carriage did not dis­please them. Belleville took the least by the hand, and I the biggest. I endeavour'd to perswade her with what Impati­ence I expected her. I blam'd her a little, at which she seem'd somewhat concern'd; but taking more courage, I discours'd to her of the thoughts she had inspir'd me with, and assur'd [Page 118] her, that it was in her power to engage me for my whole Life. She seem'd extream careful not to give the least mark of Fa­vour. At length, amongst other things, she told me, that she was Heiress to a great Estate; that her Name was Ines, that her Father was a Knight of the Order of St. James, and was of a considerable Quality; that she, which was with her, was called Isabella, and that they were Cosins. All these par­ticulars pleas'd me well, finding her a Person of Birth and therein my Vanity flatter'd. At parting, I begg'd her to give me leave to come see her, What you desire of me, says she, is the Custom of your Country; and if I were there, I would please my self to observe it; but we have different, and tho' I do not conceive any Crime in what you ask me, yet I am oblig'd to observe certain Rules of Decency, which by no means I will transgress. I will contrive some other way to see you, and of this, depend upon me, and do not take it ill, that I refuse you a thing, which is not in my power to grant. Adieu, continues she, I will think of what you desire, and will let you know what I can do. I kist her Hand, and so with­drew, extreamly touch'd with her way, as well as her Wit and her Prudence.

As soon as I was alone with Belleville, I askt him, if he was pleas'd with the Conversation he had enjoy'd. He answer'd me, that he had great cause to be so, and that Isabella seem'd to be of a Nature sweet and amiable. You are very happy, said I, already to have found so much kindness. Ines gives me no room to hope for any. She's of a gay Humour, and turns every thing I say to her into Jest, and I despair ever to make her serious. Some days past, before we either saw or heard from them: But one Morning as I was at Mass, an Old Wo­man, hid under a Vail, comes up to me, and presents me a Billet, in which I read these words: ‘YOƲ appear too Amiable to me to see you often, and I must needs confess to you, that I a little mistrust my own Heart: If yours is truly touch'd for me, Marriage must be thought on. I have told you that I am Rich, and I have told you the truth: That part which I offer you, is not inconvenient to take: But consider of it, and in the Evening I shall be on the Banks of Mansanarez, where you may let me know your thoughts.’

As the place where I was did not allow me to write her an Answer, so I contented my self to Note only on my Table-Book these Lines: ‘[Page 119]YOƲ have power to make me take what Journey you please. I am very sensible, that I Love you too well to be at ease, and that I have more cause to suspect my own Weakness, than you have to be afraid of yours; however, I shall be at Mansanarez, being resolv'd to obey you, whatever you Command me.’

I gave my Table-Book to this honest Messenger, which had the looks tho', to steal off the Plates and Clasps before she would deliver it. I desir'd Belleville to let me go alone to this Assignation. He told me, he was very glad of it, for Isabella had given him Notice, that she desir'd to speak with him alone at the Florid. It was with impatience that we waited for the appointed hour, and then we quitted each other, after having wish'd our selves good Success in our Adventure.

As soon as I came to the River-side, I carefully lookt at all the Coaches which past by; but it was hard for me to discover any thing, because they had double Curtains drawn. But at last, there came one and stopt, and I perceiv'd some Women in't, who gave me a sign to approach. There was Ines, who was more conceal'd than usual, and I could not know her but by her Voice. How industriously you hide your self, said I to her. Do you think, Madam, that the thoughts of not being able to see you, and the violent desires I have for it, are not enough to kill me with Grief? If you'l come along with me, says she, you shall see me. But for the present I must hood­wink you. To be free with you, said I to her, till now, you have appear'd very amiable to me; but this Mysterious Car­riage, which serves to no end, but to make me suffer, is trouble­some. If I am so unhappy to be thought by you an unfaithful man, you ought not at all to trust me; but if on the contrary, I am in your good Opinion, you ought to declare it, by a mo [...]e ingenuous proceeding. Interrupting me, says she, you ought to be perswaded, that I have strong Reasons for what I do, since notwithstanding what you have now told me, I al­ter not my Resolution. The thing however is at your choice; but for my own part, I will not let you come into my Coach, but upon that Condition. As the Spaniards are naturally ob­stinate, I rather chose to suffer my Eyes to be cover'd than to break off with her. I must needs own, that these appearances of Good Fortune, had fill'd me with some sort of Vanity, and I fancy'd my self with some Princess, which for the present had no mind I should know her, but afterwards, that I should find her, one of the most perfect and rich Women of Spain. [Page 120] This conceit hinder'd me any longer to oppose her will. I told her, I submitted to her, to be hood-wink'd, and even to be blinded by her, if she could please her self in the Action. She ty'd a Handkerchief about my Head so hard, that at first she put me in terrible pain: I sat me down by her; it was now dark, I knew not whether we were going, but I gave my self up entirely into her power.

She had with her two other Women; the Coach mov'd so long, that I believe we pass'd through most of the streets of Madrid. She entertain'd me with such witty Discourse, that I had no need to think the time or way long; and I was even charm'd with hearing her, when our unlucky Coach, which was but a mean one, run upon another and all on a sudden was over-turn'd. And we happen'd to fall in a place call'd the Marèe, which is one of the greatest and nastiest Ditches in the City. I was never so vex'd in my life; the three Ladies fell upon me, they almost stifled me, and I was even deaf with their noise. Having my Eyes bound, and my Head turn'd about after a strange fashion, I could not have my share of making a noise, without swallowing a great deal of this stinking Water. I then began to make some Reflections on the unlucky hours of a Man's Life; and though I dearly lov'd Ines, yet I found that I lov'd my self more, and wish'd I had never seen her. I can­not positively tell how things past, but I felt my self deliver'd from that heavy weight which so oppress'd me; and when, by the help of some People which drew me out, I got upon my leggs, I could neither see Ines nor her Companions. The Folks which stood about me, laugh'd like so many Fools, to see me hood-wink'd, and so cover'd with this black Water, that I look'd as if I had come out of an Ink-tub. I askt the Coach-man where his Mistress was. He told me the Lady with whom I was, was none of his Mistress, and that she went away cursing of me; that she was very dirty; that he knew her not; and that she only said to him at going away, that I must pay him. And prethee, said I, where didst thou take her up? He answer'd me, At the Gate Delcalcas Reales, and that an Old Woman came for him, and brought him to that place where he took her up. For my Money I got him to carry me home. I expected Belleville with a mixture of Impatience and Grief: It was late before he came, and he was extreamly satisfied with Isabella, in whom he found abundance of good Nature, and an infinite deal of Wit.

I related to him my Adventure, he could not but laugh heartily at it; and as he was fill'd with an extraordinary Joy, so he told me a hundred pleasant Stories, which put me in­deed [Page 121] into a very bad Humour: It was day-light before we went to Bed, and I had not got up, but to take a walk with him in the Prado; As we were going along by some very low Windows, I heard Ines cry out to me, Cavallero, go not so fast, it is at least fit to ask you how you do after your fall last Night. Advancing to the Window, pray, said I to her, what became of you, fair Ines? And had not I misfortunes enough, but I must lose you too. You had not lost me, reply'd she, but that a Lady, who was my Relation, passing by in that moment, knew my voice, and I was oblig'd against my mind, to go with her in her Coach, for I was unwilling she should see us together; though the Coach-man told me another story, yet I durst not examine any further into the matter, for fear of making her uneasie, and with abundance of kindness I askt her, when I should have an Opportunity without any restraint to let her know what a mighty Passion and Respect I had for her. It shall be very quickly, says she, for I now begin to think you love me; but yet time must confirm me in this Opi­nion. Oh! you are very cruel, said I, and must have very little Love for me, thus to defer what I so earnestly beg. Speak the truth freely, says she, and tell me whether you will Marry me? Yes, said I, if you will, I'll Marry you, notwith­standing I never yet had a full sight of you, nor have had the happiness to know you. I am Rich, says she, and am of Birth, and they tell me, I have some Personal Merits. I reply'd, You have all the things which please me, beyond any Person in the World: Your Wit hath charm'd me, but you make me often despair, and I had much rather choose to dye at once, than suffer what I do. She fell a laughing, and after that, there were few Evenings that we did not converse together, either at the Prado, or at Mansanarez, or else at some House unknown to me, whither I was conducted. I must confess, I never went into the Chamber with her, and I only talkt to her through the Grates of the Window, where for four hours together I used to make the most impertinent Figure in the World. To speak freely, one must live in Spain, to be able to endure such ways and Customs; but yet really I lov'd Ines; I observ'd in her something that was very smart and taking, which surpriz'd and affected me.

One time I met her in a Garden, where she had appointed me to be, and where she shew'd me more kindness than she us'd to do. When she saw it begin to be dark, she desir'd me to be gone; I unwillingly obey'd her, and as I went along a narrow Street, I perceiv'd three Men with Sword in hand, set [Page 122] upon one single Man, who defended himself valiantly: I could not endure to see so unequal a Match, and I run to Second him, but just as I came up to him, they made a pass at him, and he fell upon me like a dead Man. These Murderers run away as fast as they could, and by this time the noise had drawn out a great many People, who seeing me with my Sword in hand, made no question that I was one of the Criminals. They prepar'd to seize me, but perceiving their ill intentions, I thought it was better to provide for my safety by flight, than to trust to my Innocence. I was closely pursu'd, and which way soever I took, still they met with me. In this distress, I had a glympse of a Door half open, I slipt into it without any body's seeing me, and groping along, I came at last into a very dark Hall; I perceiv'd Light through a door, I could not tell whether it was best to open it, nor what I should say, if there were People in it. I consider'd with my self, that I had the looks of one affrighted, and that I should be taken for a Man that came from doing some ill Action, and sought for an Opportunity to do some other: I delibera­ted a long time, I listen'd with great Attention to hear some body talk, and hearing none, at last I ventur'd, and softly open'd the Door, and saw no body; I nimbly look'd about where to hide my self; methought the Hangings stuck out in some places, and really I got behind them in a little corner: I had been there but a very little while, when I espy'd coming in, Ines and Isabella. I cannot express to you, Madam, what a pleasant Amazement I was in, to find my self in my Mistress's House: I no ways doubted, that Fortune favour'd my Design; I was in no fear of those who might search after me, and as I was even ready to go and throw my self down at her feet, I heard Isabella begin to Discourse. Says she, What hast thou been doing to day, dear Ines, Hast thou seen Daucourt? Yes, says Ines, I have seen him, and I have reason to believe he loves me desperately, unless all my Rules deceive me; he talks very seriously of Marrying me; that which perplexes me, is, that he will first see and know me. And how is it possible for thee to deny either the one or the other? replies Isabella. No, I do not pretend to do it, an­swers Ines, only I'll take the most favourable Opportunities; I fancy I shall not think it cunning to set my self in a full light, and all the Curtains open; no, I intend they shall be close drawn, and that the Windows shall only let in some glimmer­ing Rays of the Sun, which shall serve to set me off. As to my Birth, I have got my Pedigree Authentically drawn, which [Page 123] cost me nothing but a little Old Parchment gnaw'd by the Mice. And as to ready Money, thou knowest my Old Lover, honest Don Diego, will furnish me: when Daucourt has told and receiv'd it, he will little think, that Thieves are appointed to take it away from him upon our very Wedding-Night: I have this day taken very fair Lodgings ready Furnish'd; so that thou wilt yield, I have neglected nothing which might contribute to the success of a business so advantagious to me, and which I so much desire. Says Isabella, Thy precautions seem very wise; but yet I fear the discovery of the Intrigue. But says Ines, Prethee my Dear, what dost thou do? As to Marriage, I make but a small Progress, says Isabella; but to speak truth, that is not my Design: I find Belleville an honest Man; I am sensible that I love him, I only desire the possessi­on of his Heart, and I fancy, I should be sorry if he would Marry me. Thou art of an odd sort of Humour, says Ines; thou lovest him, thy Fortune is none of the greatest, thou might'st be happy with him, and yet thou durst not desire to be his Wife. But prethee, says Isabella, who told thee that I should be happy with him? Love is so unconstant a thing, that hardly are the first moments of Marriage pleasant; I tell thee, Love must have something continually to provoke and spur it; Novelty is a grateful Dish to it, and how is it possible for a Wife always to be new? And how can a Mistress either, cries Ines, be so? Go, Isabella, thy Modish Maxims are not reasonable. Neither, says Isabella, can I like of what thou designest; and if thou would'st take my Advice, thou should'st seriously consider thine own Age; for to speak freely, thou art Old, very Old: Is it just for sixty Years to put the Cheat upon a Man of thirty? He will be enrag'd at thee, he will certainly forsake thee, or else he'll break thy Bones; nay, it may happen he'll knock thy Brains out before he leaves thee. Ines was of a quick Apprehension and brisk; she took it hainously that Isabella should reproach her with her Age, and immediately she gave her the greatest box on the Ear which perhaps was ever given. The other, of as hasty a Nature, return'd her two. Ines lent her a dozen good cuffs with her fist, which were speedily repaid: So that my two Female Champions entred the Field of Mars. The Combat was so extream pleasant between them, that I almost broke my sides with laughing in my little Hole, and I had much ado to hinder my self from breaking out aloud; for you may easily believe, Madam, that I had very little concern for either of them, after the Trick which I understood was to be put upon [Page 124] me with so much Malice, and when I must necessarily look up­on Ines as a common Jilt. Isabella, who knew all the weak places of her Enemy, took her Opportunities, and being both younger and stronger, tore off her Head-dress, and left her all bald. In my whole Life I was never more surpriz'd, than to see the Hair fall off, which before appear'd so lovely to me, and which I thought had been her own: But this was nothing to what follow'd, for with one blow of her fist she not only made several of her Teeth leap out of her Mouth, but also two little Cork-plumpers, which serv'd to fill out her hollow Jaws. And here the Fray ended, for their Chamber-Maids, who had heard the noise of the Skirmish, run in, and with much ado parted them. They said the bitterest things one against the other, and even threatned to reveal to the Inquisition most terrible Crimes, with which they reproach'd each other.

Ines finding her self with her Chamber-maid only, look'd at her self a long time in a great Glass, and protested that there was nothing so injurious, which she had not said to Isabella, that she might be reveng'd of her for the Abuses she had receiv'd from her: At last she sat her down and rested her self a while; a little Table was brought and set before her, and upon it she lays an Artificial Eye, which used to fill up the place of a Natural one she wanted; afterwards, she takes off her Face as much white and red Colour, as without any Hy­perbole, would have covered a Mask. It would be hard to describe to you, Madam, the extraordinary ugliness of this Woman, who till now, had appear'd to me very pretty. I rub'd my Eyes, I was like a Man that could not tell whether he doted, or had some idle Dream. To be short, she undrest her self, and was almost naked: and here I shall forbear re­presenting to you this frightful Carcass. But certainly, Love never met with a better Cure; in all those parts where other Folks are fat and plump, she was lean and hollow; she lookt perfectly like a Skeleton, which by some secret Spring was made to move about the Room: She was in a Gown with a white Mantle upon her shoulders, her Head bald, and her Arms appear'd extream little and lean; she bethought her self, that in the Scuffle her Pearl Bracelets broke, she had a mind to gather them up, but had enough to do to find them; her Chamber-maid came to help her, they counted them, and found they had all but two, which were well curs'd for my sake: Ines swore by St. James, Patron of Spain, that she would not go to Bed till she had found them: Her Maid and she lookt in every corner and hole, removing the Tables, [Page 125] tumbling the Chairs, and throwing this way and that way eve­ry thing they came near, for Ines was in a very ill Humour: As I saw her make towards my corner, fear of being discovered by such a Fury, made me lye as close as 'twas possible; but un­luckily as I drew back, I threw down several Bottles which stood there upon Shelves, and these made a mighty noise: Ines believing it was the Cat which had done this mischief, with all her might cry'd out, Gato, Gato; that is, Cat, Cat; and lifting up the Hangings to chastise the Cat, with an amaze­ment and rage which almost struck her dead upon the spot, she espy'd me; she fell violently upon me, and pull'd the Hair off my Head; she revil'd me grievously, she was like one Fran­tick, the veins of her Neck were so swell'd, and her wrinkles and furrows were so frightful, that methought I saw the Head of Medusa; and in this my great Terror, I considered my escape, when on a sudden I heard a strange noise upon the Stairs, which gave me a fresh Alarm: But Ines left me, and run down to know what was the matter, and by that time, the whole House was fill'd with cries and weeping: The Officers of Justice, who had found this Young Man (of whom I told you before, Madam) lying upon the Ground, and was the cause I was so hotly pursu'd, after some diligent search, found that he was the Son of a Lady who liv'd in the same House; they brought him thus with his Body all wounded and bloody, at which sad sight she fell into a desperate condition. And as I had told Ines something of my Adventure, that I might give her some satisfaction why I came into her Chamber, so this lean Hag, would not keep my Secret, but to be reveng'd on me for having discover'd her crafty tricks, was resolv'd to in­form against me. I have the Murderer in my power, cries she; come, come along with me, and I'll deliver him up to you. Immediately she opens her Chamber-door, and being follow'd by a Troop of Alquazils, that is to say, Serjeants or Bayliffs, deliver'd me up to them with all the necessary Evi­dence for my speedy Tryal. Says she, I saw this wretch with his naked Sword all bloody with the wound he came from giv­ing; he ran into my Chamber to save himself, and threatned me with Death if I would not conceal him. Whatever I could say in my Justification was all in vain, they would not so much as hear me; they bound my hands with Cords, and so led me to Prison as a wretched Malefactor, whilst good Ines, and the Mother and Sister of the wounded, loaded me with blows and curses; they caused me to be put in a Hole, where I was several days without having the liberty to give notice to [Page 126] my Brother or my Friends of what had past; they likewise were in mighty pain about me, concluding for certain, that I was murder'd in some corner of a Street, or else at some of my Night-Intrigues.

At last, Belleville, who still continu'd to see Isabella, ac­quainted her with his grief, and beg'd her to assist him to discover at least, what they had done with my Body: She was so industrious to get Information about it, that Ines's Chamber­maid, who had been ill enough us'd by her Mistress, told her the whole Secret of the History, altho' her good Lady had strictly forbid her. Upon this News, my Brother ran to beg the King to have pity on me, and to command them to re­move me out of that hole, which seem'd more like Hell than a Prison: I swooned away when I saw light: I was so wasted and weak, that I frighted folks; but yet I could not come out of Prison for some time, because of certain Formalities; and I leave you to think, Madam, what I mediated against the perfidious Ines; but yet I know not whether ever I should be in a condition to put in execution all the Projects of my just Revenge, for the Gentleman, who was wounded, conti­tued very ill, and his Life was despair'd of; mine depended upon such a ticklish point, that I put up most ardent Prayers for him; and in such a melancholy uncertainty, I past a great many hours: But my Brother, who was perswaded of my In­nocence, omitted nothing for the discovery of the Authors of this Murderous Act. At last, he understood, that this young and wounded Cavallero had a Rival, and he made so diligent a Search and Examination, that he certainly knew that the Blow came from thence; he was so fortunate to get him apprehend­ed, and this Man freely own'd the Fact, which acquitted me. I was therefore set at Liberty, and I conceiv'd so much Joy at it, that I was sick for several days after; or rather perhaps, it was an effect of that unwholsom Air which I receiv'd in the Prison.

In the mean while, wicked Ines, who to be sure, was not much at ease, for fear of what might happen upon her serving me such a pleasant Trick, having notice that I was set free, and in a condition to Reward her according to her Merits, pack'd up her Baggage, and one Night privately runs away, and no body knew whither she was gone; so that when we wanted her, at least to make her an Example amongst the cheat­ing Jilts, we were disappointed. But I was easily satisfy'd, because naturally I do not love to do any hurt to Women. But lest she might play me some other pranks, I left Madrid, that [Page 127] I might also avoid those of Spain. I am now returning into France, Madam, continued he, whither I shall be very glad to carry your Commands, if you'll do me so great an Honour to lay any upon me.

Though I have some trouble at what happened to this Gen­tleman, yet I could not chuse but laugh at some Circumstances of this Adventure, and I am willing to believe, Dear Cosin, that you will not be displeas'd, that I make you partake with me. I shall write to you no more till I come to Madrid, where I promise my self to see things far more worthy of your No­tice, than hitherto I have been able to acquaint you.

From St. Augustin, this 25th. of March.

LETTER. VIII.

I Would not, if you please, Dear Cosin, have you angry, that I did not write to you as soon as I arriv'd at Madrid: I thought it was better to tarry till I was in a condition to tell you something more exactly and curious. I knew that my Kinswoman was to go before me, as far as Alcouendas, which is about six Leagues distance from Madrid. As she was not yet come, and I had a mind to stay for her, Don Frederic de Car­donne propos'd to me to go Dine at a very fine House, the Master whereof was his particular Acquaintance: So that in­stead of going into this little Village, we cross'd by it, and through a Walk pleasant enough, we came to the House of Don Augustin Pacheco. This Gentleman is ancient, and yet he is lately marry'd to Donna Thoresa de Figucroa: This is his Third Wife, and she is but Seventeen Years of Age; but of such an agreeable Humour, and so ingenious, that we were perfectly Charm'd with her Wit and her Person: It was then Ten a Clock when we got there. The Spaniards are naturally Lazy, and love to rise late; and these Two were yet in Bed. Her Husband gave us such a frank and civil Reception, as suffici­ently testifi'd how much he was pleas'd that we came to see him. He went to walk in his Gardens, whose Exactness yields in nothing to ours. I accompanied him without delay; for the Weather was very inviting, and the Trees in this Country are as forward in the Month of March, as they are in France [Page 128] at the latter end of June. Indeed this is the most Charming Season for the Enjoyment of what they call La Prima Vera, that is to say, the Beginning of the Spring: For when the Son begins to have more Force and Heat, it scorches and wi­thers the Leaves, as if they had passed through Flames. These Gardens of which I speak, were adorn'd with Bowling-Greens, Fountains and Statues, and Don Augustin was not backward to shew us all the Rarities. He is much taken with them, and values not spending Money thereon; for he is very rich. He led us into a Gallery, where there were divers Tables of Ce­dar Wood, set full of Books. He immediately led us up to the Biggest of them, and told us, they contain'd an inestima­ble Treasure; and that there was a Collection of Plays of the best Authors: Heretofore, continued he, Vertuous persons could not think fit to go to Plays; there was nothing to be seen but Actions contrary to Modesty; they heard Discourses which were offensive; the Actors made honest people asham'd; there Vice was flatter'd, and Vertue condemn'd; the Scenes became bloody with Combats; the weakest was always opprest by the strongest, and Custom gave continuance to Crimes. But since Lopes de Vega hath so successfully labour'd to reform the Spanish Theatre, there is now nothing suffer'd contrary to good Man­ners: Both the Favourite, the Footman and the Ploughman, with­out disguise, keeping to their Native Simplicity, and making that pleasant by an ingenious turn, find the Secrets to cure our Princes, and even our Kings, of that common Disease to hear Truth, when their own Faults are represented. It was he who gave Rules for these Ascents, and who taught them to divide their Plays into Three Jornada's, or Acts. Since his time, we have seen flourish the Mount alvanes, the Mendoza's, the Rojas Alarcones, the Veles, the Mira de Mescuas, the Coellos, and the Villaizanes. But above all, Don Pedro Calderone excell'd as to the Serious and Grave Part, and even in the Comick Part he surpass'd all those that went before him. I could not forbear telling him, That at Victoria I saw a Play, which to me seem'd bad enough: And if I might speak my Judgment freely, I would not have them intermix with Holy Tragedies (which require great Re­spect, and according to their Subjects should be worthily ma­nag'd) any idle or silly Jests. He reply'd, That by this I had said to him, he knew the Genius of my Countrey; that he had seldom observ'd the French to like what the Spaniards did; and as this Thought carry'd him to some displeasing Reflections, I assur'd him, That Naturally we have no Antipathy for any Nation; That we even thought our selves oblig'd to do Justice [Page 129] to our Enemies. And as to Plays, though I had yet found none to my Fancy, it did not follow but that there might be others much better and more agreeable to me. The manner of my talking to him did a little compose him; so that he de­sired me to go into his Wife's Apartment, which was at the end of the Gallery.

Don Fernand de Tollede, and the Three other Knights, tar­ry'd there, because it is not the Custom in Spain for Men to go into Womens Chambers while they are in Bed: A Brother has not this Privilege, unless his Sister be sick. Donna Theresa re­ceiv'd me in as kind and obliging a manner, as if we had been long acquainted. And this must be confess'd, in praise of the Spaniards, that nothing of that sort of Familiarity which comes from want of, or a mean Education, appears in their En­tertainments; for with great Civility and Earnestness they are very careful to pay what they owe to others, and at the same time do not forget what's due to themselves. She was in Bed without any Coif or Cornet; her Hair was parted in the mid­dle of her Forehead, ty'd behind with a Ribbon, and wrapt up with Carnation-colour'd Taffety: Her Shift was very fine, and of so vast a largeness, that it lookt like a Surplice; the Sleeves were as big as Mens, and button'd at the Hands with Diamonds: Instead of narrow Point at the Neck and Hands, she had hers wrought with Blue and Flesh-colour'd Silk in Flowers; her Ruffles were of White Taffety Pinkt. —She had several lit­tle Pillows ty'd with Ribbons, and trimm'd with very broad and fine Lace; she had Basses all of Flowers of Point de Spain in Silk and Gold, which lookt very pretty: Her Bed was all of Copper, Gilt, with little Balls of Ivory and Ebony; her Bed-Head was adorn'd with four Rows of little Copper Ballisters, very well wrought.

She ask'd me leave to rise, but when she came to put on her Stockings and Shooes, she caus'd the Key to be taken out of the Door, and that to be bolted. I enquir'd the Reason of this Barricading: She told me, That she knew there was with me some Spanish Gentlemen, and that she had rather lose her Life than they should see her Feet. I broke out into Laughter, and begg'd her to let me see them; for that I could not apprehend that the thing was of that moment. It is true indeed, that for their Littleness, they are something extraordinary; for I have seen Children of six Years old have as great. As soon as she was up, she took a little Cup full of Red, and with a good big Pencil she laid it on, not only upon her Cheeks, her Chin, un­der Nose, above her Eye-brows, and the Edges of her Ears; [Page 130] but she also be-daub'd the inside of her Hands, her Fingers, and her Shoulders. She told me, That every Night at going to Bed, and every Morning at rising, they laid this Colour on; That she did not paint, and that she was willing enough to leave the use of this Red, but that it was such a General Cu­stom, that it could not be dispensed with; for let one be of never so fresh a Colour, they would look pale and sickly when they were near others, if they did not use this Red. One of her Women perfum'd her from Head to Foot, with excellent Pa­stils, the Smoak whereof she made to ascend to her; another took Orange-Flower-Water in her Mouth, and dexterously through her Teeth she sprinkled it like Rain upon her; and this they call Roussia. She told me, That there was nothing that spoil'd the Teeth more than this was of squirting it, but that the Water smelt better for it. Of this I doubted, and I thought it very ugly, that an Old Woman, such as that was which I saw there, should come and spurt Water out of her Mouth, in my Face.

Don Augustin having known by one of his Wife's Servants, that she was drest, did not stand upon the Custom of the Countrey, but lead Don Fernand, and the Knights, into her Chamber. The Conversation was not long in common, but we divided; for my part, I discoursed with Donna Theresa, and she told me, she was born at Madrid, but was brought up at Lisbon with her Grand-mother, who was Sister to Don Augustin Pa­checo; so that her Husband was her great Uncle; and these sort of Alliances are often contracted in Spain. She talkt to me much of the Young Infanta of Portugal, and boasted mightily of her Wit, and told me, if I would go into her Closet, I might judge of her Beauty, for she had her Picture there. I immedi­ately went, and was surpriz'd with the Charms I observ'd in this Princess. She had her Hair cut and curl'd like the Peri­wig of an Abbot, and an Invention for preserving Children from falling, so big, that there were upon it Two Baskets of Flowers, and little Vessels of a Medicinal Earth, of which they eat a great deal in Portugal and Spain, although 'tis an Earth that hath little Taste. Donna Theresa shew'd me the Skin of a Serpent, which her Husband kill'd in the Indies; and though it was dead, yet I was afraid of it. Those of this kind are ex­tream dangerous; but it seems as if Providence had taken care to preserve Men from them, for these Serpents have a sort of Bell about their Head, which rings when they move, and so gives notice to Travellers to secure themselves.

This young Lady, who is a great Lover of Portugal, discour­sed to me much in its Favour: She told me, That the Sea, which flows up into the Tagus, renders that River capable to bear the greatest Gallions, and the fairest Ships upon the Ocean: That the City of Lisbon stands upon the side of a little Hill, which insensibly descends to the very Brink of the Tagus: So that the Houses being built one above another, are all seen at once, and so becomes a very pleasant Prospect. The old Walls, which the Moors built about it, are yet standing: There are of them four Rounds, built at divers times; the last may have a­bout six Leagues Circumference. The Castle, which stands up­on a Hill, hath its particular Beauties: In it you see Palaces, Churches, Fortifications, Gardens, Armories and Streets: There's always a good Garrison with a Governor: This Fortress com­mands the City, and from thence they may thunder upon it, in case it proves rebellious. The Palace where the King lives, is more considerable, if not for its Strength, yet for the Uni­formity of its Buildings: Every thing there is Great and Mag­nificent; the Prospect it has to the Sea hath made them take so much care to beautify it. She discoursed to me afterwards of the Publick Places, which are adorn'd with Vaults and Arches; and of the great Houses round about the Dominicans Convent, where the Inquisition is, before the Gate of which there is a Fountain, with a great many Statues of White Marble, which throw the Water every way. She added, That the Fair of Roucio is kept on the Tuesday of every Week, in a Place which might be taken for an Amphitheatre, because 'tis environ'd with little Hills, upon which are built several fair Palaces. There's another Place on the side of the Tagus, where the Market is kept; and there one may meet with every thing which can be desired, of the best in his kind, either in Fowl, Fish, Fruits, Herbs or Pulse. The Custom-House stands a little higher up, where there is infinite Riches and Rarities, and some Fortifica­tions are lately made to preserve them. The Metropolitan Church is not eminent for any thing but its Antiquity: It is dedicated to St. Vincent; it is pretended, that after he had suf­fered Martyrdom, they refused him Burial, and that the Ravens watcht over his Body, till some pious Persons came and took it up, and carried it to Valentia in Spain, to have it worshipt; and for this Reason there are Ravens kept in the Church; and there is a Box for them, into which are put the Alms to buy them Food.

Although Lisbon, continued she, is a very pleasant place to live in, yet we dwelt at Alcantara: This Village is not above a [Page 132] quarter of a League from the City; There's in it a Royal House, not so fine for its Buildings, as for its Situation; the River sup­plies the place of a Canal: There one sees admirable Gar­dens, all fill'd with Grotts and Cataracts, or great Falls of Wa­ter, as well as Spouts of Water. Belem is not far from hence: it is the place design'd for the Sepulture of the Kings of Portu­gal, in the Church of the Hieronimites: It is all covered over with White Marble; the Pillars and Statues are of the same; the Tombs are in even Rows in three different Chappels, amongst which there are some well wrought. Belem, Feriera, Sacavin, and some other places about the City, are remarkable for the vast quantities of Oranges and Lemons growing there; the Air you smell there is all perfum'd; you can hardly sit down under the Trees, but you are covered with their Flowers; one sees running amongst them a Thousand little Rivulets, and it may be affirmed, that there is nothing more sweet in the Night, than the Murmurs and Harmony which are there frequently heard. At Belem there are great Magazines of Oranges, both sweet and sour Lemons, Pome-Citrons and Lemons. They load them on small Vessels, and so transport them into most parts of Europe.

Likewise she told me of the Knights del Habito de Christo, of the Habit of Christ, whose Multitude made them less considera­ble; and also of the Counts of the Kingdom, which have the same Priviledges as the Grandees of Spain; they are possess'd of Las Comarcas, which are certain Lands belonging to the Crown, and divided into Counties of a considerable Value. She told me, That when the King intended to go abroad, the People had notice of it by a Trumpet, which sounds very early in the Morning in the place through which his Majesty is to pass. For the Queen, 'tis a Flute and a Drum; and for the Infanta, a Hauthoy. When they all go abroad together, the Trumpet, the Drum, the Flute, and the Hautboy, march in a Company; and by this means, if any one which cannot get into the Pa­lace to present a Petition, he need only wait for the King's coming by. Eight Leagues from Coimbre, there's a Fountain in a place called Cedima, which draws in, and swallows down every thing which touches its Water; Experiments are often made upon great branches of Trees, and sometimes of Horses, which they cause to be brought there, from whence they cannot get back, but with great difficulty.

But that which causes the greatest wonder, added she, is the Lake of the Mountain of Strella, where there are often found the wracks of Ships, broken Masts, Anchors, and Sails, and yet [Page 133] the Sea is above twelve Leagues off, and this is upon the top of a very high Hill too; it cannot be imagin'd by what means all these things should come there. Whilst I was hearing with great delight Donna Theresa relate these things, her Husband and the rest of the Company came and interrupted us. Don Augustin was a Man of Understanding, and for all his Age, was very pleasant. If my Curiosity is not indiscreet, pray, Madam, says he, tell me, what Subject this Child has entertained you with? Mi Tio, replied she, that is, my Uncle, you may easily believe it was Portugal: Oh! I thought as much, cry'd he; There it is she always chooses her Field of Action. Dear God, says she, every body has some place they love, and when once you are got to your Mexico, one cannot draw you from thence. You have been in the Indies, resumed I, and Donna Theresa hath shew'd me a Serpent, which she says you kill'd there. It is true, Madam, continued he; and if it were not time for you to Dine, it would not, it may be, be unpleasant to you to hear of what I have seen there. But, says he, I should go to Ma­drid, and if you please, I'll bring to you Donna Theresa: It is there indeed, where I should lay the Scene of Discourse, and where I could tell you of things which I believe you would not be unwilling to know. I assur'd him, that he would do me a particular favour to give me so signal a mark of his kindness; and that I should be over-joy'd to see the fair Donna Theresa, and to hear her talk of the Indies, she that discours'd so admi­rably of every thing. He took me by the Hand and led me down into a Hall paved with Marble, which was hung with Pictures instead of Tapistry, and set round with Cushions. Cloth was laid there upon a Table for the Men, but upon a Carpet on the Floor, it was laid for Donna Theresa, my self, and my Daughter.

I was surpriz'd at this Fashion, not having been us'd to Dine so; however I took no notice of it, and I had a mind to try it, but I was never more uneasie; my Leggs ak'd most horribly: one while I lean'd upon my Elbow, and then upon my Hand: In a word, I could not Dine, and yet the good Lady was not sensible of it, for she thought the Women in France were used to eat upon the Floor, as they did in Spain. But Don Fernand De Toledo, who observ'd me uneasie, rose from Table with Don Frederick De Cordonna, and both of them told me, that absolute­ly I should sit with them; I was willing enough, provided Don­na Theresa would do so too; but she durst not, because there were Men, upon whom she did not so much as lift up her Eyes but by stealth. Don Augustin bid her come without Ceremony, [Page 134] and told her, that they must let me know, that they were glad to see me at their House. But that which was very pleasant, was, when this Lady was set upon a Chair, she was no less at ease, than I was when I sat upon the Carpet; she protested with a pretty sort of freedom, that she never before sat in a Chair, and that she had never once thought on't. Thus we dined very merrily, and there was nothing which could be add­ed to the obliging manner of my Reception in this House. I gave to Donna Theresa some Ribbons, Pins, and a Fan. She was mightily pleased, and gave me as many thanks, as if the Present had been of value. Her thanks were not common, one could not observe in them any thing that was low or covetous. And to speak truth, they have abundance of Wit and Sense in this Country, it appears even in the smallest trifles.

I had not been gone an hour from this House, when I saw coming towards us two Coaches drawn by six Mules a piece, which gallop'd a great pace, and faster than the best Horses could do. I could hardly have believed that Mules could run so fast. But that which I wondred most at, was the manner of their be­ing harnass'd. These two Coaches and their Furniture took up almost a quarter of a League of room. There was one with six Glasses indifferent large, and made like ours, except that the upper part is very low, and so, inconvenient. Within, it had a Cornish of Wood gilt, but so large, that it lookt like one for a Chamber. The Coach was gilt on the out-side, which is only allow'd to Embassadors and Strangers. The Curtains were of Damask and Cloth sew'd together. The Coach-man rode upon one of the fore-Mules; they do not sit in the Coach-box, although there is one; and upon my asking the Reason of it, Don Frederick de Cardonna told me, that he had been assur'd, that this Custom had been ever since the Coach-man of the Lord Duke D' Olivares drove his Master, who over-hearing something of great Importance which the Duke told to one of his Friends, reveal'd it; the matter having made a great noise at Court, (for it seems the Duke accus'd his Friend of some in­discretion, which nevertheless he was innocent of) ever since, they have been so cautious to make the Coach-man ride upon the first Mule. Their Traces are Silk or Hempen Cords, so ex­cessive long, that from one Mule to another, there's above three Ells distance; and I cannot understand, but every thing should break at the rate they run. It is true, that though they run very fast in the Country, yet they go very softly in the City; and 'tis a tireso [...]e thing to go so slowly as if they told their steps. And though at Madrid, they have but four Mules, [Page 135] yet they have a Postillion. My Relation was in the first of these Coaches, with three Spanish Ladies. The Gentlemen and the Pages were in the other, which was not made after the same manner. It had Boots, as formerly our Coaches had; they are to let down, and the Leather is open at bottom, so that when the Women come out (if they have no mind their Feet should be seen) the Boot is let down to the ground to hide their Shoes. It had Glasses twice as big as my hand, made fast to each end of the Coach, for the conveniency of calling to the Footmen. Nothing more resembles our Garret-windows than these do. The top of the Coach is covered with Gray Parragon, and the Curtains are of the same, large and long, hang with­out, and draw round, and are fastned with Buttons and Loops; This looks very ill, and you are inclosed within as if you were in a Box.

My Relation was drest, half French and half Spanish; she seem'd over-joy'd to see me, and I was no less to see her. As to her Person, I found her not at all chang'd; but I could not forbear laughing at her way of speaking: She now understands very little French, although she continually speaks and loves it so much, that it is impossible for her to learn any other Lan­guage: But she now mixes Italian, English, and Spanish with her own Natural Language; and this makes such a Jargon, as is very strange to one, who knew her, as I did, to have the French Language in its purity, and able to read Lectures of it to the Learned. She cannot endure to be told, that she has forgot it; and indeed she does not believe it, having never left off speaking it, either with some of her own Women, or with Ambassadors and Strangers, who generally understood it. Ne­vertheless, she speaks very ill: And if one is not at the Foun­tain-head, it is difficult long to speak a Language well, which is every day changing, and continually making new progresses.

I found the Ladies which were with her extream pretty: I do assure you, that there are in this Countrey some very hand­some and aimable. We embraced each other often, and went back to Madrid. Before we came there we past over a Sandy Plain, of about Four Leagues, but so uneven, that every mo­ment we fell into holes big enough to bury the Coach, and which hinder'd it for going very fast. This uneven way lasted till we came to a little Village call'd Mandes, which is but half a League from Madrid. All the Countrey here is dry, and very open; you can scarcely see a Tree on any side you look: The City is scituated in the middle of Spain, which is New-Castile. It is above an Age since the Kings of Spain have chosen to keep [Page 136] their Court in it, because of the purity of the Air, and the goodness of the Water, which really is so good and so light, that the Cardinal Infanta would drink no other when he was in Flanders; and he caus'd it to be brought by Sea in Earthern Jars, well stopt. The Spaniards pretend, that the Founder of Madrid was a Prince nam'd Ogno Bianor, Son of Tiberino, King of the Latines, and of Manto, who was a Queen, more Famous for the Science of Astrology, which she understood to a won­derful degree, than for her Birth. 'Tis thought, that Madrid must be in the Heart of Europe, because the little Village of Pinto, which is not above Three Leagues from it, is call'd in Latine, Punctum; and that is reckon'd to be in the Center of Europe.

The first thing I observ'd was, that the City is not enclos'd either with a Wall or Ditch; the Gates, as one may say, are only made fast by a Latch; those which I have already seen, are all broken; there is not seen any place of Defence, nei­ther Castle, nor in a word, any thing which might not be for­ced with throwing of Oranges and Lemons; but yet it might be necessary to Fortifie this City: The Mountains which are round it, are of some use for its Defence; I have pass'd through some places of them, which are so narrow, that one might shut them up with a good big Stone, and with a hundred Men op­pose the passage of a whole Army. The Streets are long and straight, and of a good largeness, but there's no place worse paved; let one go as softly as 'tis possible, yet one is almost jumbl'd and shak'd to pieces; there are more Ditches and dirty places than in any City in the World, the Horses go up to the Bellies, and the Coaches to the middle; so that it dashes all upon you, and you are spoyl'd unless you either pull up the Glasses, or draw the Curtains which I have spoke of; very of­ten the Water comes into the Coaches at the bottom of the Boots, which are open.

The Houses there have rarely any great Gates to them, those which have, are without Courts. The Doors indeed, are pret­ty large; and for the Houses, they are very graceful, spacious, and convenient, though they are only built of Earth and Brick. I think they are altogether as dear as at Paris. The first Story which they raise belongs to the King, and he can either let, or sell it, unless the Owner of the House buy it off, which is almost constantly done, and this is a considerable Revenue to the King.

There is commonly in every House Ten or Twelve Rooms on a Floor; in some Twenty and more; they have their Sum­mer [Page 137] and their Winter Apartments, and very often, one for Au­tumn, and another for Spring-time: So that having very great Families, they are forced to Lodge them in some Neighbouring Houses, which they hire on purpose for them.

You must not wonder, Dear Cousin, that they have so many Domesticks: There are two Reasons for it. The first is, that both for Food and Wages the Spaniards give but two Rials a day, which is not above Six-pence of our Money. I say, the Spaniards do this, for Strangers pay after the rate of four Rials, which is about Twelve pence of our Money. Neither do the Spaniards give to their Gentlemen above Fifteen Crowns a Month, with which they must wear Velvet in Winter, and Taf­fety in Summer: But then they live only upon Onions, Pease, and such mean stuff, and this makes the Pages and Footmen as greedy as Doggs. But I should speak of the other Domesticks as well as the Pages, for in this matter they are all alike, let them have what Wages they will. They are kept so very hungry, that in carrying the Dishes to the Table, they eat half the Victuals that is in them; they throw it into their Mouths so burning hot, that you shall observe their Teeth all rotten with the Practice. I advis'd my Kinswoman to get a little Silver Stew-pan made and fastned with a Pad-lock, like that I saw of the Arch Bishop of Burgos, and she did so and now after the Cook hath fill'd it, he looks through a little Grate to see whe­ther the Soupe does well; and thus the Pages get nothing of it but the Steam. Before this Invention, it happen'd a hun­dred times, that when we thought to have taken up some Broth, we found neither that, nor any Flesh; for you must know, that if the Spaniards are Temperate, 'tis when the Ex­pence is their own; they are not so, when they eat at another's cost. I have seen Persons of the Highest Quality eat with us like so many Wolves, they were so hungry: They were sensi­ble enough of it themselves, and pray'd us not to wonder at it, for they found the Ragoas after the French way, so excellent, that they could not forbear.

There are Cooks-shops almost at every corner of a Street: These have great Kettles set upon Trevets. There folks may have such ordinary things as Beans, Garlick, Leeks, or a little Broth, in which they steep their Bread. The Gentlemen and Waiting-women go thither as other People, for at home they only dress Victuals for the Master and Mistress, and their Chil­dren. They are strangely Temperate in Wine; the Women never drink any, and the Men so little, that a quarter of a Pint will serve one a whole day. You cannot affront a Man worse, [Page 138] than to call him a Drunkard. Here's indeed, a great many things to make up the first Reason why they keep so many Ser­vants. Now follows the second.

When a great Man dies, if he had a hundred Servants, his Son keeps all he found in the House, without putting one away: When the Mother happens to dye, either her own Daughter, or her Daughter-in-law takes into her Service all the Women-Servants; and this Custom holds to the fourth Gene­ration, for they are never turn'd away. They are put, as I have told you, into Neighbouring Houses, and have their Ra­tion, or Allowances. They come often to their Master or Mi­stress's House, but 'tis rather to shew they are not dead, than to do any Service. I was to see the Dutchess of Ossona, which is a very great Lady, and I was amazed to see so many Chamber-maids and Women, for every Room was full of them. I askt her, how many she had? She told me, she had now only 300, but that very lately she had 500 more. If particular Persons have this Custom of keeping so many Servants, the King must needs keep abundance more, which without doubt is very chargeable to him, and must hurt his Affairs. I have been told, that in Madrid only, if the Pensions which he gives are reckoned, he gives Ration or Allowances to above Ten Thou­sand Persons.

As to the King's House, the Provision for it is daily brought in, and it is regulated according to the Quality of the Persons. There is distributed both tame and wild Fowl, Fish, Chocolate, Fruit, Ice, Charcoal, Wax-Chandles, Oyl, Bread, and in a word, every thing that is necessary for Life.

Embassadors have their certain Expences, and so have some Grandees of Spain. There are Persons appointed to Sell at their Houses whatever I have just now named, and that without pay­ing any Custom or Excise: And this saves them a great deal of Money, for the Duties upon all sorts of Goods and Wares are excessive high.

None but Embassadors and Strangers are allow'd to have a great many Footmen and Pages to follow them: For by the Pragmatick (by which name they call all their Edicts of Re­formation, they are forbidden to have any more than two Footmen to follow them.) It is somewhat strange, that they who keep four or five hundred Persons, may not be allow'd a­bove three to accompany them. This third, you must know, is a Groom, which goes on foot, and keeps near the Horses, to hinder them from putting and intangling their Leggs in their long Traces, and he does not wear a Sword as the Footmen [Page 139] do: And I must needs say, that if Age is a recommendable Quality, these three Men have that in a good degree. I have seen Footmen of Fifty Years of Age, and never any under Thirty. They are very unpleasant to look at, being very taw­ny, and of a Clownish Aspect: They cut their Hair close on the top of their heads, only let a Round be a little long, but very greasie, and seldom comb'd. The Hair they cut on the top of their heads, is done in the shape of a Wild Boar's Head. They wear long Swords, with Shoulder-Belts and Cloaks. They are all cloath'd either in Blew or Green; and often their green Cloth Cloaks are lined with blew Velvet cut in Flowers; their Sleeves are either of Velvet, Sattin, or Damask. One would think that these should be handsome Liveries, but yet I assure you, nothing is uglier; and their ill Looks disparage their Clothes. They wear Bands, but without any Collar, which is ridiculous. And upon their Cloathes they have neither Gal­loons, nor tufted Buttons and Loops, nor any sort of Lace or Trimming.

Their Gentlemen and their Pages always go in a Coach that follows; these wear black Cloathes in all Seasons: In Winter they wear Velvet, with Cloth Cloaks very long, but when they Mourn, they draw upon the ground. Although they are Pages, they wear no Swords, only most of them have a little Poniard hid under their Cloaths. In Summer they wear either Damask or Taffety, with Cloaks of a black Stuff very light.

It is only the great Lords, and the Titulado's, or Men of Title, which are permitted to have four Mules to their Coaches with those long Traces in the City. If any Person, without the distinction of some Character, let him be as Rich as he will, should appear in the same Equipage, he would be affronted and abus'd in the open Street, his Traces would be cut, and himself Fin'd very high. Here, it is not enough to be Rich, a Man must also be of some Quality. The King only, can have six Mules to his own Coach, and to those of his Attendants; which Coaches are not like others, and are distinguish'd by this, that they are covered with green Oyl-Cloth round, as well as on the top, just as the Stage-Coaches in France, except that they are not of Wickers but the carved Work is very coarse, and ill done, and they have falling Boots, and all is very ugly; and one would wonder how so great a King can make use of them. But I have been told, that these fashion'd Coaches were in use in Charles the Fifth's time, that his were just like them; and that it is in imitation of so great an Emperour, that all the Kings which have Reigned since, will have no other. Without [Page 140] doubt there must be some such great Reason; for notwith­standing this, the King has as fine Coaches as any are in the World, some made in France, and others in Italy, and other Parts. The great Persons have also very stately ones; but af­ter the King's Example, they do not use them four times a Year. All Coaches are kept in large Courts, in which there are several Partitions enclosed. There are it may be to the number of two hundred in one Yard, and there are several of these Yards or Courts in divers parts of the City. The Reason why they set them abroad is, because they have no room for them at home, their Houses being built, as I have already said, without Courts or great Gates. Of late, they begin to alter their Fashion, and use Horses instead of Mules. And to be just, these Horses are extream beautiful; there is nothing wanting to them, and it would be difficult for the best Painters to draw any in greater Perfection. But 'tis a piece of Cruelty to make them draw such huge Coaches, which are almost as heavy as a House; besides the Streets are so very ill pav'd, that their Feet are quite spoyl'd in two Years time. They cost very dear, and are not big enough for their Coaches. But I have seen some draw their pretty little Calashes, which were all painted and gilt, like those which are made in Holland, and nothing look'd more pleasant; and by their swift running, and handsom car­rying of their Heads, you would take them for Stags. As soon as you are out of Town you may put six Horses to your Coach. Their Harness are very neat, and they trim their Manes, which hang to the ground, with Ribbons of divers colours; and some­times they dress up their Manes with a great many puffs of Sil­ver, Gauze, which makes a very pretty shew. The Harness for their Mules, are made of Leather, flat and broad, with which they cover them almost all over.

Two days ago I went with my Kinswoman to walk without St. Bernardine's Gate. 'Tis a place they frequent in Winter. Don Antonio of Toledo, Son to the Duke of Alva, was there, with the Duke of Ʋzeda, and the Count of Altamire. He had a Harness for his Horses of an Isabella colour, which so pleased me, that I could not forbear speaking to him of it when his Coach came near ours. According to Custom, he told me, that he laid them all at my Feet; and at Night when we got home, I was told, that his Gentleman desir'd to speak with me. He made me a Complement, and told me, that his Master's six Horses were in my Stable. My Kinswoman fell a laughing, and made Answer for me, that I was so lately arriv'd at Madrid, that I did not yet understand, that one must not praise any [Page 141] thing which belong'd to so generous a Cavaliero, as Don Anto­nia; but however, 'twas not the Fashion to receive Presents of so great value, and desired him to take them back again. But this he would not do, we sent them back immediately; he re­turn'd them, and so did we. To be short, the whole Evening past thus in sending backwards and forwards; and at last, we were forced to write him a Letter, and give our selves a great deal of trouble to perswade him not to take it ill, that I would not accept them.

I am told, that after the King has once made use of a Horse, in Respect to him, no body afterwards will ride on him. It happened, that the Duke of Medina De las Torres had bought a Horse worth Five and Twenty Thousand Crowns, he was the handsomest and the bravest which was ever seen. He caus'd his Picture to be taken; King Philip the Fourth saw it, and had a mind to see the Horse. The Duke begg'd him to accept of him; but he refus'd him, and gave this Reason, That as he should seldom ride on him, and that no body would make use of him after he had mounted him, so the strength and useful­ness of the Horse would be lost.

It is usual here for good Families to put their younger Daughters to Ladies; by whom they are employ'd for the most part to Embroider in Gold and Silver, or in Silk of various co­lours, about their Shift-Necks or Hands: But if they are left to follow their own Natural Inclination, they work very little, and talk much. They keep also both Male and Female-Dwarfs, and very ugly ones: The Females particularly have very fright­ful looks, their Heads are bigger than their Bodies; they always wear their Hair loose about their Ears, and hanging down to the ground: At first sight, one would wonder what these little Figures were when they present themselves before ones Eyes. They wear Rich Cloaths; they are their Mistress's Confidents, and for this Reason, they are deny'd nothing they have a mind to.

In every House at a certain stated hour, all the Women meet with the Mistress of the Family, in the Chappel, there to re­peat their Rosary aloud; they make use of no Book to say their Prayers by; indeed it is very seldom they have any. The Count of Charny, who is a Frenchman, very handsom, and of great worth, and is the King of Spain's General of his Horse in Catalonia, told me, that the other day being at Mass, and as he was saying his Prayers by his Book, an Old Spanish Woman came and snatch'd it from him, and with great Indignation threw it to the ground, saying to him, Let this alone, and make [Page 142] use of your Beads. It is a strange thing to consider how conti­nually fond they are of their Beads; every Woman there has a pair fastned to her Girdle, and so long, that they almost touch the ground. They are perpetually without ceasing using them, in the Streets, as they play at Omber, as they Discourse, nay, when they are making Love, when they are telling Lies, or speaking Evil of their Neighbours. They are continually mut­tering over their Beads, let them be in never so much Compa­ny, nothing of this hinders them still to keep on their pace. I leave you to judge what Devotion there can be in this; but Custom has a great Power in this Country.

Till of late, Women wore Vertingales of a prodigious big­ness; this Fashion was very troublesom to themselves as well as others. There were hardly any doors wide enough for them to go through: But they have left them off now, and only wear them when they go to appear in the Queen's or the King's Presence: Commonly in the City they wear a certain sort of Vestment, which to speak properly, is a young or little Vertin­gale. They are made of thick Copper Wyre in a round form, about the Girdle, there are Ribbons fastned to them, with which they tye another round of the same form, which falls down a little lower, and which is wider; and of these they have five or six rounds which reach down to the ground, and bear out their Petticoats and other Garments. They wear a vast number of this Device; and one would hardly believe that so little Creatures as the Spanish Women are, could bear such a load. Their upper Garment is always of coarse black Taffety, or of a grey plain Stuff made of Goats-hair, with a Truss or Fardle coming down a little above the Knees, and round the upper Garments; and if you ask them to what end this serves? they'll answer you, that with this they can make it longer as it wears out. The Queen-Mother, as well as others, uses this to all her Garments. Even the Carmelites wear them in France as well as in Spain. But as to Women, it is rather a Fashion which they follow, than any Frugality; for they are neither Covetous nor good Housewifes, and of these things, they have two or three new ones in a Week. These upper Garments are so long before and on the sides, that they draw a great deal upon the ground, but behind, they do not draw at all. Though they wear them down so low, yet they will tread upon them, that their Feet may not be seen, which are the parts they most industriously hide. I have heard say, that after a Lady has Oblig'd her Gallant by all possible Civilities and Compliance, to confirm to him her Kindness, she will shew him her foot; and [Page 143] this here, they call the highest Favour; one must needs own, that in its kind, there is nothing prettier. As I have already told you their Feet are so small, that their Shooes look like those of our Babies. They are made of black Spanish Leather, cut upon colour'd Taffety, without Heels, and as strait as a Glove. When they go, you would think they flew; we should not in a hundred Years learn their way of walking; they keep their Elbows close to their sides, and go without raising their Feet, just as one slides. But to return to their Habits; under this plain upper Garment, they have a dozen more, one finer, than another, of rich Stuffs, and trim'd with Galloons and Lace of Gold and Silver, to the Girdle. That I have told you a dozen, pray do not think that I exceed the Truth: During the excessive Heats of the Summer, they only wear seven or eight, of which some are of Velvet, and others of thick Sattin. They wear at all times a white Garment under all the rest, which they call Sabengua; it is made either of the fine English Lace, or of Muslin embroider'd with Gold, and so wide, that they are four Ells in compass. I have seen of these worth five or six hundred Crowns. At home they wear neither the little Vertin­gale nor Patens, these last are a sort of little Sandal, made of Brocado or Velvet, set upon Plates of Gold, which raise them half a Foot, and when they have these, they walk very ill, and are apt to fall. They use but very little Whale-bone in their Stays, the midst of which are a third part of an Ell. One can hardly see in other Countries Women so slender. They shape their Bodies before pretty high, but behind, you may see them to the middle of the back, they are so naked, and yet this is no Charming sight, for they are all dreadful lean, though they would be very sorry to be fat. And this is a great Error among them. Besides, they are very swarthy; so that this brown Skin which is glew'd to their backs, must necessarily be dis­pleasing to those who are not us'd to it. They put Red upon their Shouldiers, which are all naked, as well as on their Cheeks. Neither do they want there for White, which is very good, but there are few which know how to use it; at first sight you can discern it. I have seen some of a very clear Com­plexion that was Natural. Most of them have very fine and exact Features; in their Looks and all their Actions you may see a little affectation of being Courted, which their Humour does not dissemble. It's reckon'd beautiful among them to have no Breasts, and they take care very early to hinder them from growing big. As soon as they begin to appear, they bind thin pieces of Lead upon them, as close as one would swaddle a Child. [Page 142] And indeed their Breasts are as flat and even as a sheet of Pa­per, except the holes and hollowness, which their leanness causes, and those are pretty many. Their hands have no de­fect, they are little, white, and well shap'd. Their large Sleeves, which they fasten at the bottom of their wrists, still contribute to make them appear less. These Sleeves are made of Taffety of all colours, like those of the Egyptians, with Ruffles of broad Lace. Their Stays are commonly of Gold and Silver Stuffs, mix'd with lively colours; the Sleeves of them are very strait, and their Silk Sleeves appear instead of their Shifts. Never­theless, People of Quality wear very fine Linnen; but all others wear little or none. It is scarce and dear, besides, the Spaniards have that foolish Vanity to desire it very fine; inso­much, that they had rather have but one such Shift than half a dozen a little coarse; and either lye in Bed till 'tis wash'd, or else dress themselves without any, which they frequently enough do. They use this fine Linnen after an ill manner when they wash it; for the Women lay it upon rough stones, and so beat it hard with a stick, by which means, there shall be a hundred holes in't immediately. There's no difference between the best and the worst Laundress; all these Creatures are very auk­ward.

But I return to the Womens Cloaths, which I have often left, that I might give an Account of several things which oc­cur'd to me. I must tell you, that they wear about their Necks Bone-lace, embroider'd over either with red or green Silk, or Gold or Silver. They wear Girdles all of Medals and Reliques. There are divers Churches which have not so many; they wear also the Cord of some Order, either of St. Francis, the Carmi­lites, or some other. It is a small Cord, made either of black, white, or brown Wool, and is worn on the out-side of their Stays, and hangs down before to the edge of their Petticoats. They are full of knots, and commonly upon every knot there's a Diamond-stone fastned. They make Vows to some Saint or other to wear their Cords; but if the reason of these Vows was enquir'd into, it would not be found very good.

They have great store of Jewels, the finest that can be seen. Neither is it enough to have one Sett of Jewels, as our Ladies in France have, but these must have Eight or Ten; some of Diamonds, others of Rubies, Emeralds, Pearls, Turkey-stones; and in short, of all sorts. But the Work-men set them very ill, for the greatest part of the Diamond is hid, very little of it is seen. I ask'd the reason of it, and they told me, that to them, the Gold look'd as well as the Stones. But I am of [Page 145] Opinion, that their Lapidaries do not understand how to set set them better. I must except Verbec, who can do them well if he will take the pains.

The Ladies wear at the top of their Stays a broad knot of Diamonds, from whence there hangs a Chain of Pearl, or ten or twelve knots of Diamonds, which they fasten at the other end, to their sides. They never wear any Necklace, but they wear Bracelets, Rings, and Pendants; which last are longer than ones Hand, and so heavy, that I hare wonder'd how they could carry them without tearing out the hole of their Ears. To which they add whatever they think pretty. I have seen some have good large Watches hanging there, others Padlocks of Precious Stones, and even your fine wrought English Keys, and little Bells. They also carry upon their Sleeves, their Shoul­ders, and all about their Bodies, Agnus Dei's, and little Images. They have their Heads stuck full of Bodkins, some made of Diamonds in the shape of a Flye, and others like Butterflies, whose colours are distinguish'd by various Stones. They dress their Heads after several Fashions, but still they must be naked; they part their Hair on the sides of their Heads, and lay it cross on their foreheads; it shines so, that without lying, one may see themselves in it. Formerly they wore a Tress or Lock of Hair, the worst made that one should see, and this fell all spread upon their Shoulders, lest their own Hair should mix with it, which indeed is very fine. They have usually five-broided Rolls, to which they fasten Knots of Ribbons, or else Pearls, and these they tye altogether to their Girdles, and in Summer when they are at home, they wrap them up in a piece of co­lour'd Taffety, trim'd with Thred Bonelace. They never wear any sort of Coif, either Night or Day. I have seen some which had their Heads drest up with Feathers like little Children: These Feathers are very curious, and spotted with different co­lours, which make them much more beautiful. I cannot ima­gine, why they do not make such in France.

The Young Women, or new-marry'd, have very Rich Cloaths, and their upper Garments are colour'd and embroider'd with Gold. I was to see the Princess of Monteleon: She's a little Body, not above Thirteen Years old, and she is lately marry'd to her Cousin-German, named Don Nicholas Pignatelli; her Mother is the Daughter of the Dutchess of Terra Nova, nomi­nated to be Camarera major, or first Maid of Honour to the new Queen. These, that is to say, the Dutchess of Terra No­va, D'Hijar, and Monteleon, with the Young Princess of the same Name, and her little Sisters, dwell all altogether. The Dut­chess [Page 146] of Terra Nova may be about Threescore Years old; my Kinswoman is one of her intimate Friends, and she receiv'd us with such Civility and Kindness as is not usual with her: For it may be, there is not in the World a more haughty Spirit, which her very looks declare. Her voice is harsh, she speaks little, and would be thought of a kind and good Nature; but if what is said, be true, she is not really so: One shall hardly meet with a greater share of Wit, and a more piercing Judg­ment, than she has; she discours'd to us much of the Place she was going to take upon her in the Queen's House. Says she, I'll neglect nothing to make my self acceptable to her, I'll en­deavour to discover every thing that may please her; I am sen­sible that a Young Princess, born in France, must be allow'd a greater Liberty than an Infanta of Spain, born at Madrid. So that by me, she shall not be able to find any difference be­twixt this and her own Country. She presented me with a pair of Beads of Paulo D'Aguila, which is a curious sort of Wood that comes from the Indies. Really they are so long, that when I hold them in my hands they reach to the ground. They are trim'd with two bunches of small green Taffety Ribbon, each bunch has about three hundred Ells in it. She gave me also some Puoatos of Portugal, which are Pots and Dishes made of that Medicinal Earth, and are adorn'd with Filigrane Work: And she presented me likewise with several other pretty Toys.

One can hardly see any thing that looks more splendid than this House of theirs; they use the upper Apartments, which are hung with Tapistry all done with rais'd Work of Gold. In one great Chamber, which is longer than 'tis broad, you may see several Glass-doors which go into Closets or little Cells. The first of which is the Dutchess of Terra Nova's, hung with grey, and a Bed of the same, and all other things very plain. On one side Lodges her Daughter, the Dutchess of Monteleon, who is a Widow, and has her Room furnish'd like her Mother's. Afterwards you come to the Princess of Monteleon's Chamber, which is not larger than the others, but her Bed is of Gold and green Damask, lin'd with Silver-Brocade, and trim'd with Point De Spain. The Sheets were lac'd about with an English Lace of half an Ell deep. Over against it were the Chambers of Monteleon and Hijar's Children, which were Furnish'd with white Damask. Next to these is the little Chamber of the Dutchess of Hijar, Furnish'd with Crimson-colour'd Velvet upon a Gold Ground. Their Rooms were no otherwise divided than by Partitions of a certain Sweet Wood; and they told me, that six of their Women lay in their Chambers, upon Beds brought thither at Night.

The Ladies were in a great Gallery, spread with a very rich Foot-cloth; there were set round it Crimson-colour'd Velvet Cushions embroider'd with Gold, and they are longer than they are broad: There were also several great Cabinets in laid and a­dorn'd with Precious Stones, but they are not made in Spain; and between them were Tables of Silver, and admirable Look­ing-Glasses, both for their largeness and rich Frames, the worst of which were of Silver. But that which I thought finest, were their Escaparates, which is a certain sort of a close Cabinet with one great Glass, and fill'd with all the Rarities which one can imagine, whether it be in Amber-grease, Porceline, Crystal, Bezoar-stone, Branches of Coral, Mother of Pearl, Fillagran in Gold, and a thousand other things of Value. There I saw a Fish, and upon its Head there was a little Tree; it was neither of Wood nor of Moss; it grew on the top of the Fish's scull, which is very small. This seem'd to me a great Curiosity.

We were above threescore Women in this Gallery, and not so much as one Man among us. They all sat down upon the Floor cross-legg'd. This is an Old Custom, which they have deriv'd from the Moors. There was only one great Elbow-Chair of Spanish Leather stitch'd with Silk, and very ugly. I ask'd for whom it was design'd? They told me it was for the Prince of Monteleon, who came not in till after all the Ladies were retir'd. I could not long sit after this fashion, and there­fore I got some Cushions under me, five or six of which were fastned together by a Silver brace full of Olive-stones, that it might not break through. When any Lady comes to Visit, the He or She-Dwarf comes to give Notice, by kneeling down up­on one Knee, upon which all the Company rises, and the Young Princess walks before as far as the Door to receive her which comes to see her after her Marriage. In Saluting each other, they do not kiss, perhaps, that is, because they will not rub off the colour from one anothers Faces; but they shake Hands with their Gloves off, and in Discourse, they say Thou and Thee; and without calling one another either, Madam, or Lady, or High­ness, or Excellency, they only say, Donna Maria, Donna Clara, or Donna Theresa. I was willing to know the reason of this Familiar way, and I learnt it was to avoid all occasion of Offence a­mongst them; and that as there were different ways of speaking to distinguish the great difference of Quality and Degree, and that it was not easie to observe all the Rules about them with­out sometimes giving distaste; therefore to prevent which, they have chosen to speak to each other without any Ceremo­ny at all. I must also add, that the Women here do not in­termix, [Page 148] and so these are always Persons of Quality together. The Wives of the Long Robe never so much as go to visit the Court-Ladies, and a Man of Birth ever Marries with a Wo­man of Quality. Here one never sees those which are not Gentlemen mix with the Nobility, as in France; so that there can be little danger, as long as they Associate together. If there comes in a hundred Ladies one after another, every one rises up as often, and they go, as in Procession, as far as the Anti-Chamber to receive them. I was so tyr'd that day, that I was in a very ill Humour.

They were all very well dress'd; and as I have already told you, they have very rich Cloaths, and their Jewels are extream fine. There were two Tables for the Game of Ombro, at which they play'd very high, and without any Noise. I could not un­derstand their Cards; they are as thin as Paper, and painted after a quite different way from ours. One of those Cards looks as if one held a Letter; when they have a good Game in Hand, it were easie for a Cheating Gamester to discover several of their Cards, if not the whole Game.

While they play'd, they discours'd of News, of the Court and the City: Their Conversation is free and pleasant, and it must needs be confess'd, that they have a certain quickeness of Wit, which we cannot come up to. They are very kind and friend­ly; they love to praise, and do it after a gentile way, very in­geniously, and with great Judgment. I am amaz'd to find such strength of Memory joyn'd with so great a degree of Wit and Understanding. They are compassionate, even almost to a fault. They Read little and Write not much; but yet by that little which they do Read, they improve much, and that little they Write is both exact and concise.

Their Features are very regular and delicate; but their ex­cessive leanness offends one that is not us'd to it. They are of a brown Complexion, and their faces very smooth: The Small-Pox must needs not do them so much hurt here, as in other Countries, for I have seldom seen any mark'd with them.

Their Hair is as black as Jett, and very shining, notwithstan­ding there is cause to think that they comb long with one and the same Comb, for t'other day I saw at the Merchioness of Al­connizas (who is Sister to the Constable of Castille, and whose first Husband was the Count and Duke of Olivares) her Toylet spread; and although she is one of the neatest and richest La­dies, and the Toylet was laid upon a little Silver Table, yet it was only furnish'd with a little bit of Callico, a Looking-Glass no bigger than ones Hand, two Combs, and a little Box, and [Page 149] in a small China Cup some White of an Egg beat together with Sugar-candy. I ask'd one of her Women what she did with this; she told me, this was to take the dirt off her Face, and to make it shine. I have seen some whose Faces were so bright, that you would wonder. One would think that they were Var­nish'd over; and the Skin is so pull'd and rub'd, that I am con­fident it does a great deal of hurt. Most of the Women make themselves Eye-brows, and they have only as 'twere a little thred of Hair, which in my mind looks very ugly; but that which is yet worse, is, they comb the middle of their Fore­heads so much till they make their Eye-brows meet; and this with them is extream Beautiful.

But yet there are a great many whose Fancies do not lye this way; I have seen some Spanish Women more exact to the Rules of Beauty than our French Women, notwithstanding their way of dressing cross-wise, and the little Advantage which they give to their faces. One may say, that they are like things made out of Rule, for they have neither Hair, nor Cornet, nor any Ribbon, to set them off; and yet, what Country can shew such Eyes as theirs? They are so very sprightly, and declare so much Wit, and by them, talk to one in a Language so kind and intelligible, that if they had no other Charms, these alone would make them pass for handsom Women, and unavoidably steal away ones Affections. Their Teeth are very even, and would be white enough, if they took a little care of them, but they neglect them; and besides, their frequent use of Sugar and Chocolate does them much hurt. They have all a bad Cu­stom here, the Women as well as the Men, which is to pick their Teeth, let them be in what Company they will: This they reckon as a Diversion, and do it with grave looks. They do not so much as know what belongs to having them clean'd by an Artist, there is no such Trade there, and when they need them to be drawn out, they get the Surgeons to do it, if they can.

At my first coming in to Visit the Princess of Monteleon, I was surpriz'd to see so many Young Ladies with great Specta­cles on their Noses, and fastned to their Ears; but that which yet seem'd strangest to me, was, that they made no use of them where it was necessary: They only discours'd while they had them on; I was disturb'd at it, and ask'd the Marchioness De la Rosa (with whom I have contracted a dear Friendship) the rea­son of it: She's a pretty sort of Woman, and understands how to live. She has a neat Wit, and is a Neapolitan. She fell a [Page 150] Laughing at my Question, and told me, that it was done to make them look grave, that they did not wear them for any need, but to draw Respect. Do you see that Lady, says she to me? meaning one that was near us, I do not believe, that since she was Ten Years Old, she ever left them off, but when she went to Bed. Without lying, they both eat with them, and in the Streets and Assemblies you can never fail of meeting a­bundance of Men and Women with their Spectacles. Upon this occasion, I must needs tell you, continu'd she, that some­time ago, the Jacobite Fryars had a Suit in Law of high Im­portance; the success of which they were too much concerned for, to neglect any means. One of the Young Fathers of the Convent had some Kindred of the greatest Quality, which upon his Account did sollicit very hard on their behalf. The Prior assur'd him, that if through his Credit and Interest they should get the better of the Suit, he could ask nothing that should not be granted him for an Acknowledgment: At last, they gain'd their Point, and the Young Father, transported with Joy, im­mediately ran to tell the News, and at the same time prepar'd himself to ask a Favour which a long time he had had a migh­ty desire to obtain. But the Prior, after having embrac'd him, with grave looks and tone, said to him, Hermano, ponga las Ojalas, that is to say, Brother, put on Spectacles. The Honour of this Permission filled the Young Monk with a strange Joy; he thought himself and his care too highly recompens'd, and had nothing else to ask. The Marquess of Astorgas, Vice-Roy of Naples, added she, had his Statue to the middle cut in Marble, upon which he was very careful to cause his best Spectacles to be put. It is so common a thing to wear them, that I have heard, there are different Spectacles, according to the different Qualities and Degrees of Men and Women. Pro­portionably as a Man's Fortune rises, he increases in the large­ness of his Spectacle-Glasses, and wears them higher upon his Nose. The Grandees of Spain wear them as broad as ones Hand, which for distinction, they call Ocales. They fasten them be­hind their Ears, and leave them off as seldom as they do their Collars. Heretofore they had the Glasses of them from Venice; but ever since the Enterprize of the Marquess of Cueva, which was called the Triumvirat, because they were three Persons who undertook to Fire the Arsenal of Venice with Burning-Glasses, and by this means to make the King of Spain Master of that City: The Venetians, to be reveng'd, caus'd a vast number of those Ocales to be made, and sent to their Embassador at Ma­drid. He presented of them to the whole Court, and all that [Page 151] us'd them were almost blinded with them; for they were made of burning Glass, and very artificially done, and set in certain Frames made of combustible Matter, which with the least Rays of the Sun would put all in a Flame. It happen'd upon a Council-day, that in the Room where they sat, one of the Windows was left open, and the Sun shining perpendicularly upon their Spectacles, all on a sudden they perceiv'd a dange­rous sort of fire contriv'd against their Eye-brows and Hair; one can hardly imagine what a fright these venerable old men were in. I could wish, said I to the Marchioness, that this sto­ry were credible, for 'tis very pleasant. As I did not see it, re­ply'd she in smiling, so I cannot positively assure you that 'tis true: But the bus'ness of the Jacobite Fryars which I have rela­ted to you, I had from the best Authority. I have since, ob­serv'd several Persons of Quality in their Coaches, sometimes alone, and sometimes in Company, with these great Spectacles hung upon their Noses, which in my Mind, is a strange sight.

This Princess gave us a Collation, her Women, to the num­ber of eighteen, brought every one of them a great Silver Ba­son full of dry Sweet-meats, wrapt up in Paper, for that pur­pose cut and gilt. In one, there was a Plum, in another a Cherry or an Apricock, and so in all the rest accordingly. This to me seem'd very neat, for by this way, one might either eat or carry away, without soyling the Fingers or Pockets. There were some ancient Ladies, who after they had eat of these Sweet-meats till they were ready to burst, fill'd five or six Handkerchiefs full, and they bring them on purpose; and al­though they are well observ'd, yet no notice seems to be taken, but they are suffer'd to take as much and as oft as they will; they tye these Handkerchiefs with strings quite round their lit­tle Vertingales: This is like the hook which is us'd in a Pan­try, upon which is hung all sorts of Flesh and Fowl. After­wards they present you with Chocolate, every one a China Cup full upon a little Dish of Agat set in Gold, with Sugar in a Box of the same. There was some Chocolate order'd with Ice, and some hot, and some made with Milk and Eggs: One drinks it with some Bisket, or else with some thin bread as hard as if it were toasted, which they make so on purpose. There are some Women which will drink six Cups one after another, and this they do, very often twice or thrice a day. One should not wonder that they are so dry, since nothing is hotter than this Liquor; and besides, they eat every thing so very high sea­son'd with Pepper and Spice, that one would think it impossible they are not burnt up: There were several also, which eat [Page 152] great pieces of the Medicinal Earth. I have already told you, that they have even a great passion for this Earth, which fre­quently causes in them great Obstructions; their Stomachs and their Bellies will be swell'd with it, and become as hard as a Stone, and they themselves as yellow as Saffron. I had a mind to taste this Ragoue which is so much esteem'd beyond its worth, but I declare I had rather eat a piece of a Stone.

If one had a mind to oblige them, one must treat them with such kind of things which they call Barros; and very often their Confessors enjoyns them no other Penance, than to for­bear one whole day from eating thereof. It is said to have a great many Properties; and is good against Poyson, and cures abundance of Diseases. I have a great Cup made of it, which holds a pint; it spoils Wine that's put into it, but it makes Water excellent, which seems as if it boyl'd in it, at least one may observe it to work and fret, if it is proper to say so; and if one leaves it a little while, the Cup shall be quite empty, the nature of the Earth makes it so full of Pores; it has a strong sent. We drank Water there, which was very well order'd; one may truly say, that in no place they drink it cooler: They make use only of Snow, and are of Opinion that it cools much better than Ice; It is the custom here to drink very cold Water before they take their Chocolate, which otherwise they think would be unwholsom.

After the Collation was ended, Flamboys were brought in; there came in first a little simple Fellow, white with Age, who was Governour of the Pages: He had a great Gold Chain and a Medal about his Neck; this was the present he had at the Prince of Monteleon's Marriage: He kneel'd down upon one Knee in the middle of the Gallery, and aloud, said, Let the Most Holy Sacrament be prais'd; to which every body answer'd, For ever: This is their Custom, when Light is brought in. Next came in four and twenty Pages following two by two; and in the same manner kneel'd upon one Knee; every one of them brought two great Flamboys, or one Branch, and when they had plac'd them upon the Tables, went out with the same Ce­remony. And then all the Ladies made to each other a low bow, accompany'd with a wish, as when they sneeze. It is fit I should tell you, that these Branches are full of Lamps fastned to a silver Pillar, whose foot is very broad; there are most times eight and twelve Pipes to every Lamp, in which the Week burns, so that this gives a very great Light. And to encrease it yet more, they fasten a silver Plate to it, in such manner, that the Light reflects upon it. One is not troubled [Page 153] with the Smoak, and the Oyl they burn is altogether as good as that of Provence, which is eat with Sallads. I lik'd this fashion very well. When all the Lights were put in their proper pla­ces in the Gallery, the young Princess of Monteleon bid her Wo­men bring her Wedding-cloaths, that I might see them; they brought thirty silver Baskets full, which were as deep and as wide, as Table Baskets; they were so heavy, that there were four Women to carry one Basket. In them there was, what ever is possible to be seen that is fine and rich, according to the fashion of the Country; amongst other things, there were six of a certain sort of close Coat of Gold and Silver Brocard, made like Vests to wear in a Morning, with Buttons, some of Diamonds, and others of Emeralds, and of these every one had six dozen. The Linnen and the Lace were not inferiour to the rest. She shew'd me her Jewels also, which were admirable, but so ill set, that the biggest there made no better a shew than a Jewel set in Paris, which one might buy for thirty Lew's.

I will not write to you often, because I will always have a stock of News to tell you, which in this place, is pretty long in picking up. Pardon this tedious Letter, and the little Me­thod which I have observ'd in it; I set things down just as they come into my Mind, and that's ill enough; but in your Love, dear Cosin, I am safe from all my faults.

From Madrid, this 29th. of March, 1679.

LETTER IX.

I Fear you'll take it ill that I have omitted writing to you one Post; but dear Cousin, I was willing to be inform'd of divers things, which I am now going to relate.

And first, I will speak of the Churches of Madrid, which I find extream beautiful and neat: The Women of Quality sel­dom go to them, because they all have their Chappels in their Houses; but there are certain days in the year, they never fail to be at them, of which number are all the days in the Passion-week; and there also they make theirGo to receive their Indulgences. Stations, and sometimes go to Confession.

Our Ladies Church of Atocha, that is to say, our Lady of the Bush, is indeed a very fine one. It stands within a vast Con­vent, which is fill'd with Religious Women, who seldom or ne­ver go out of it, that being one of their Rules they are to ob­serve. They lead an austere Life; and from all parts, People come to pay their Devotion here; and when the Kings of Spain have gain'd any Victories or happy Success, thither they go to sing Te Deum. There you'll see a Virgin holding a young Je­sus, which they report to be miraculous. She's of a black Complexion, and very often they dress her up like a Widow; but upon great Festivals she is richly cloth'd, and so adorn'd with Jewels, that nothing can be seen more magnificent. She hath in a particular manner the Sun drawn rown her Head, whose Beams shine admirably. She always has a vast pair of Beeds either in her Hand, or hung at her Girdle. This Chap­pel is on one side of the body of the Church, and in such a place, as it would be very dark, were it not that there's conti­nually burning above an hundred great Lamps of Gold and Silver. The King has his Gallery there, whose fore-part is made up with a Lattice Window. In all their Churches they make use of Hassocks to kneel on; and when a Person of Qua­lity, or a strange Lady comes in, the Sexton spreads a large Carpet before 'em, upon which he either sets an Oratory with Cushions, or else he leads 'em to certain little Closets, all painted and gilt, with Glass-windows round, where one is very conve­niently placed. There never fails a Sunday that the Altar is not [...]luminated with above an hundred thick Wax Candles. It is [...]kewise adorn'd with a prodigious quantity of Plate, and so are all the Churches in Madrid. Here are abundance of fine Walks made of your green Turf; and set full of Flowers, in which they place a great many Fountains, from whence the Water falls into Basins, either of Silver, or Marble, or Porphi­ry-stone. Round about them they plant great numbers of Orange-Trees, as high as a Man, and these are set in very fine Boxes; and among these they turn loose several Birds, which make a pretty sort of Musick. And this as I have described to you, lasts almost all the year; neither are their Churches ever without Orange or Jassemin Trees, which perfume them much better than their Incense.

In the Chappel which they call our Lords of Almunada, you see a Virgin, which they tell ye St. James brought from Jeru­salem, and hid in a Tower which is in the middle of Madrid. The Moors having besieg'd the City, the Inhabitants were redu­ced to so great a want of Provisions, that they were delibera­ting [Page 155] to Surrender, when on a sudden they found this Tower full of Corn; they concluded such a plentiful and seasonable Supply could be no less than the effect of a Miracle; this fill'd them with Joy and new Courage, and made them so vigo­rously defend the City, that the Moors toyl'd with a long Siege, were forced to retire. Afterwards, they found the Image of the Virgin, and in gratitude, they built a Chappel for her, upon the Walls of which, this whole History is painted in Fresco. The Altar, Rayles, and all the Lamps are of solid Silver.

The Minime Fryars have a Church near this, in which is the Chappel of our Lord of Soledad, where the Salutation is every Night said; this is a place of great Devotion; I mean for those that are truly devout, for there are a great many Persons which make it their Rendezvouz for other ends.

But St. Isidore's Chappel surpasses all in beauty. He is the Patron of Madrid, and he was but a poor Labourer. The Walls of the Chappel are all cased with Marble of divers Colours, and its Pillars are of the same, and so are some Statues of certain Saints: His Tomb is in the middle, and four Pillars of Porphi­ry supports over it a Crown cut in Marble, in which are repre­sented Flowers, whose Colours are so very natural, that one may say, Art has outdone Nature. The Cupulo without is adorn'd with the Images of the Twelve Apostles, which stand round it.

I saw at St. Sebastines, (which at present is my Parish) a Canopy which the Queen-Mother caus'd to be made, for the carrying the Holy Sacrament to the Sick in bad Weather: It is made of Crimson Velvet embroider'd with Gold; it is cover'd with Chagrin, and nail'd with Gold Nails; it has several great Glasses about it, and in the middle of its roof, there is rais'd a sort of Steeple, which is full of little Bells of Gold, Four Priests carry it when any Person of Quality is sick, and desires to re­ceive the Sacrament, and all the People at Court attend it. There are about a thousand Flamboys of white Wax to give Light, and several musical Instruments play before it. They make some stay at all the great Places in their way, to give leave to the People to kneel and receive the Benediction, and to let the Musicians play upon their Harps and Guittars, and sing to them. It is generally in the Night time, that they car­ry it with so much Ceremony and Respect.

When they are to celebrate a Festival in some Church, the Evening before they set up a long Pole fastned in the Ground, on the top of which is a kind of a deep Chaffing-dish, which they fill with wooden Chips mixt with Brimstone and Oyl: [Page 156] This burns a long while, and gives a very great Light; they place these Poles in the form of Allies, which make a delightful sort of an Illumination.

The Women which go abroad to Mass, hear a dozen of them, but shew so much Distraction and wandring of Thoughts, that one may easily perceive their Minds are employ'd on some other thing than their Prayers. They wear Muffs that are above half an Ell long; they are made of the finest Martins and Sables which can be seen, and are worth 4 or 5 hundred Crowns a­piece. They must stretch back their Arms as far as possible they can, to be able only to put their fingers ends into the entrance of their Muffs. I fancy, I have already told you that the Wo­men are extream little, and these Muffs are very little less than themselves. They always wear a Fan too, and be it in Summer or Winter, they never cease fanning themselves all the time of Mass. In the Church they all sit upon their Legs, and are con­tinually taking of Snuff, and yet never smut themselves with it, as 'tis usual; for in this, as in all other things, they have very neat and dextrous ways of management. Every time the Ele­vation is made, both the Women and Men give themselves a score of blows with their fists upon their Breasts; which makes such a noise, that the first time I heard it, I was very much af­frighted, and thought they were beating one another.

As to the Cavalleros, (I mean those which by Profession are Gallants, and wear a peice of Crape round their Hats) as soon as Mass is ended, they march up to the place where the Holy Water is kept, and ranging themselves round it, they present of it to all the Ladies, who also come thither, and at the same time say something to them that's kind; to which the Women make a pertinent answer in few words; for it must needs be granted, that they speak precisely what they should, and that ex tempore, without any trouble of studying for words. But the Pope's Nuncio, has upon pain of Excommunication, forbid the Men to present the Women any Holy Water. And 'tis said, that this Prohibition was obtain'd at the Intreaty of some jealous Husbands. However it be, it is observ'd, and they say, the Pro­hibition even forbids the Men to give each other any Holy Water.

Let the Spanish Women be of what quality they will, they neither have Cushions in the Church, nor any kind of Train held up. For our parts, as soon as we appear there in our French Cloaths, every body gets round about us; but the most troublesome of all, are the big belly'd Women, which are more inquisitive than the others, and for whom they have here, the [Page 157] greatest respect and complaisance; for 'tis pretended, that if they long for any thing, and miss of it, they receive so much hurt, that they immediately miscarry; so that they have a liber­ty to pull off ones Gloves, and to tugg, hale, and examine every body as they list.

At first, I could not take such kind of Jesting, and talkt to them so roughly, that some of them went away weeping, and durst not return: But there were others which were not so ea­sily put out of Countenance; they would see my Shooes, my Garters, and what I had in my Pocket; my Kinswomen seeing I would not permit them, told me that if the People once took notice of me, they would certainly stone us, and bid me let them have their humour. My Women and Chamber-maids were yet worse tormented than I; and I am asham'd to tell you, how far the curiosity of these big-belly'd Women proceeded.

I was told that there was a young man at Court, who was desperately in love with a very fine Woman, whose Husband continually kept under his Eyes; so that finding no other way to speak to her, he disguis'd himself like a Woman big with Child, and so went to her House; he address'd himself to the jealous Husband, and told him, he had the Lantajo (which is the word for Longing) to discourse with his Wife in private. The Husband deceiv'd by this appearance, made no question that this was a young big belly'd Woman, and immediately consented that his Wife should make this Person happy with a long and pleasant audience.

When any of these Women long to see the King, they give him notice of it, and he has the Goodness to come into a great Balcon, which looks into the Palace Court, and there he tarries as long as they desire.

Not long since a Spanish Woman just come from Naples, sent to beg the King that she might see him, and when she had lookt upon him as long as she had a mind, in a transport of Zeal, with hands lifted up, she said to him, I beseech God, Sir, that of his Mercy, he would one day make you Vice Roy of Naples. 'Tis said, that this Passage was acted before the King, to inform us, that the Magnificence of the then Vice Roy, who was not be­lov'd, far exceeded his. Very frequently there comes into my Relation's House, Women which are perfect Strangers, to whom nevertheless she is very kind and civil, because they are big with Child, and such we must not vex.

Thanks to Heaven, Lent is over, and though I only observ'd the Passion-Week, yet that was more tedious to me, than a whole Lent kept at Paris, for there's no Butter here; that little [Page 158] which one meets with, is brought about Thirty Leagues off, wrapt up like Sausages in Hoggs Bladders. It is full of Worms, and very dear. But the Oyl makes amends, for 'tis very excellent; only you know, every body loves it not, and I am one of those, which cannot eat it, without being very sick.

That which makes it yet worse here, is, that Fish is very scarce; it is impossible to have any sweet which is caught in the Sea, for that is distant from Madrid above Fourscore Leagues. Sometimes there is Salmon brought, of which they make Pies, which being season'd with Spice and Saffron, is eatable. There's very little Fresh-water Fish, and yet for all this, they do not suffer much Inconvenience, for indeed, there's hardly any body keeps Lent, neither Master nor Servant, because of the great want of Provisions. They take a License from the Pope's Nun­cio, which costs about a Shilling, which gives them leave to eat Butter and Cheese all Lent, and the Heads, Feet, and Inwards of Fowl, &c. every Saturday throughout the Year. And it seems to me pretty odd, that on this day they should eat the Feet, Head, and Inwards, and yet dare not eat of any other part of the same Creature.

The Shambles are as open in Lent, as they are in the Carna­val. Their way of selling Meat is very troublesom; it is close shut up in the Butcher's Shop, one speaks to him through a little Window, and desires to buy of him half a Calf, or the like; he neither vouchsafes to answer you, nor to shew you the least bit of Meat; at last, you are content with a Loyn of Veal; but he makes you pay your Money down before-hand, and then through his little Window he gives you a Leg of Mutton; you return it, and tell him, this is not what you ask for; he takes it again, and instead thereof he gives you a short Rib of Beef; then you make a noise for your Loyn, but he concerns himself no further than to throw you your Money, and shut the Win­dow upon you. This vexes one, and you go to another, and he treats you after the same manner, if not worse; so that it is best, to tell them how much Meat you would have, and leave the rest to them. This Flesh is ill for the Stomach, it is so lean, dry, and black; but as bad as 'tis, yet there's less requir'd of it than of ours in France, to make a good Soup. Every thing here nourishes so extreamly, that an Egg does one more good than a Pigeon elsewhere; and this I take to be an Effect of the Climate.

As to their Wine, it does not please me; this is not the Coun­try where the Excellent Spanish Wine is drank, that comes from Andalousia and the Canary-Islands, which must pass the Sea too, [Page 159] to gain that strength and pleasantness which we find in it. At Madrid the Wine is strong enough, if not too strong, but i [...] wants that delicious taste. Add to this, that they keep it in Bags made of Buck-skin, and fitted up for that purpose, so that it always smells and tastes either of Pitch, or as if it was burnt. I now begin not to wonder that Men are so temperate with such Liquor. They'll sell as little a quantity of it as one will, even to the value of a French Double: But that which is so retail'd out to the poor People, is yet made worse than it would be, by their letting it stand all day in an open Earthen Bason, out of which they sell to those who have a mind. It grows sour, and smells so strong, that it makes one's Head ake in passing by.

Lent makes no alteration in their Pleasures, indeed they are so moderate, or at least those they use make so little noise, that they enjoy them at all times.

No body fails of going to their Station in Passion-Week, but particularly from Wednesday to Fryday. In these three days, there is acted very different things, by real Penitents, Lovers, and Hypocrites. There are divers Women, which under pre­tence of Devotion, constantly go to certain Churches, where for a Year before, they are assur'd to meet him they Love; and though they are attended with several of their Women, which they call Duennas, yet as the Crowds are great, and Love makes them ingenious, so they make a shift in spight of all the Argus's, to slip on one side into a little adjoyning House, which by a private sign they know, and is hired for that purpose, and without the help of any body, but at that very moment of time. When they have done, they return to the same Church, where they find their Women busie in searching for them; they fall a chiding them for their carelesness in losing them; and thus the Husband, who for a whole Year hath industriously watch'd his dear Wife, loses her at that very season when she is obliged to be the most faithful to him: The great Constraint they live under, puts violent desires in them to enjoy some freedom; and their very Amorous Nature makes them Witty to find out means to bring about their Designs.

'Tis an unpleasant thing to see the Disciplinarians: The first time I met one of them I thought I should have swooned a­way. The unexpectedness of such a terrible sight seized me; fancy a Man coming so near you, that he'll cover you all over with his Blood; this, it seems, is one of their Pastimes: there are certain Rules by which to Discipline themselves handsomly, and Masters to teach the Art, just as to Dance and to Fence. They have a sort of a Gown made of their Baptist Cloth very [Page 160] fine, which comes down to their Shooes; it is laid in small plights, and so prodigiously wide, that it contains at least fifty Ells of Cloth. They wear upon their Heads a Cap three times higher than a Sugar-loaf, and of the same shape: It is cover'd with Holland, and from it falls a great piece of Cloth which hides all the Face and the fore-part of the Body; there's two little holes in't to see through: On the back of their Wastcoats they have two great holes upon their shoulders; they wear white Gloves and Shooes, and abundance of Ribbon which tyes their Wastcoat-sleeves, but hanging down, and not in knots. They also tye one to their Whip; commonly 'tis their Mistress which Honours them with this Favour: And to be the more admired, they must not lift up their Arms, only the Wrist and the Hand, and the blows must not follow hastily, nor the Blood which runs out spoil their Cloaths. They give them­selves most terrible cutes and slashes upon their shoulders, from whence runs streams of Blood. They walk so softly in the Streets as if they counted their steps; they present themselves before their Mistress's Window, and there with wonderful pa­tience lash themselves. The Lady through the Lattice of her Chamber sees this fine sight, and by some sign encourages her Gallant to Flea himself alive, and lets him know how very kind­ly she takes this Action of his. When they meet a handsom Woman, they whip themselves after such a rate, as to make the Blood flye upon her: This is esteemed a particular Civility, and the Lady acknowledges and thanks them for it. When once they have begun to give themselves this Discipline, the preser­vation of their Health obliges them afterwards to use it every Year, otherwise they would be sick. They have also little Needles stuck in Sponges, with which they prick their shoul­ders and their sides so eagerly, as if it did not hurt them. But I'll tell you something yet stranger. Several Courtiers often take this Walk in the Night: But they are commonly the Young Fools, and they give notice to all their Friends of their Design, who immediately come to them very well Arm'd. The Marquess De Villa Hermosa was one of them this Year, and the Duke De Vejar was the other. This Duke went out of his House about Nine a Clock at Night, he had a hundred Flam­boys of white Wax carry'd before him, two by two. Three­score of his Friends went before, and a hundred follow'd after him, and every one had his Page and Footmen; and it was a very long Procession. It is known when Men of this Quality are to walk; so that all the Ladies are in their Windows, and hang out their Carpets in their Balconies; and that they may [Page 161] the better see and be seen, they have Flamboys fastned to the sides. The Knight of Discipline with his Guard, passes along, and salutes the Spectators. But that which often causes a great deal of Mischief, is, when the other Disciplinarian, who stands upon his Honour and Reputation, marches with his great Com­pany in the same Street. This happen'd to these Persons I have now mentioned. Each of them would have the upper hand, and neither would yield it. The Footmen with their Flamboys began to lay one another over the Faces, and burn their Whiskers and Hair; the Friends of each Party drew their Swords against one another. Our two Heroes, who were only Arm'd with this Instrument of Penance, search for each other, and being met, being a most terrible Battel. After they have us'd a little Discipline about one anothers Ears, and cover'd the Ground with the ends of their Whip-cords, they fall to down-right Fifty-cuffs like any Porters: Though after all, there's but little matter to laugh at in this piece of Mummery, for they beat one another well-favouredly; they wound, and often kill; and here old Enmities revive and are reveng'd. But at last, the Duke de Vejar yielded to the Marquess De Villa Her­mosa; they gather'd up their broken Whips, and mended them as well as they could: The great Cap, which was thrown into the Canal, was wip'd and put upon the Penitent's Head again; the wounded were carried home, and the Procession began a­gain, and they walk'd more gravely than ever, through a great part of the City.

The Duke had a great mind the next Morning to be reveng'd; but the King commanded both him and the Marquess not to stir out of their Houses. But to come to what they do upon these Occasions: You must know, that after these Servants of God are return'd home, there's a magnificent Supper prepar'd of all sorts of Meats; and observe that this is on the last day of Pas­sion-Week: But after so good a Work, they think they may do a little Evil. Immediately the Penitent causes his shoulders to be a long time rub'd with Sponges dipt in Vinegar and Salt, lest there should remain any bruised Blood; after that, he sets himself at the Table with his Friends, and receives from them the Elogies and Applauses which he believes he has merited. Every one in his turn, tells him, that in the Memory of Man, none was ever seen to to receive the Discipline with so good a grace. They magnifie all his Actions, but above all, the Hap­piness of that Lady for whose sake all this Bravery was per­form'd. The whole Night is spent in such kind of Discourse, and sometimes he that has been so well flog'd, is so sick, that [Page 162] he cannot go to Mass on Easter-day. Do not think that I use any Art to set out the History of this matter to make you merry, it is all literally true, and I tell you nothing, which you may not be satisfied in, from every body that has been at Madrid.

But there are also true Penitents, which indeed troubles one extreamly to look on them; they are drest just as those who gives themselves the Discipline, except that they are naked from the shoulders to the middle, and with a kind of a narrow Matt are swadled and bound so very hard, that all the Flesh which appears is black and blew; their Arms stretch'd out, are wrapt about with the same Matt. They carry to the number of seven Swords sticking in their Backs and Arms, which hurt them grievously when they stir too much, or happen to fall, which they often do; for they going bare-foot, and the stones in the Streets being sharp, and cutting their Feet, they cannot possi­bly always keep themselves up. There are others, who instead of these Swords carry Crosses so very heavy, that they are even born down with them; neither would I have you think that these are of the ordinary People, some of them are of the high­est Quality. They are forc'd to have several of their Servants to accompany them, but they are disguised, and their Faces co­vered, lest they should be known. These carry Wine, Vine­gar, and other things, to give their Master from time to time, who very frequently drop down dead with the extream pain and toil they endure. Generally these Penances are enjoyn'd by their Confessors, and they are so very severe, that he which undergoes them seldom out-lives the Year. The Pope's Nuncio told me, that he had forbid all Confessors to impose them; yet I have seen divers, though in likelihood it proceeded from their own Devotion.

From the beginning of Passion-Week to Low-Sunday, one can­not stir out of Door without seeing an infinite number of Peni­tents of all sorts; and on Good-Friday they all come to the Pro­cession, which is but one general one for all the City, and is composed of all the Parishes and Convents. Upon this day, the Ladies are more finely dress'd than on their Wedding-days; they place themselves in their Balconies, which are set out with rich Carpets and Cushions. Sometimes there's above a hundred Women together. The Procession begins about four a Clock, and is not ended till past eight; for I cannot express to you the numberless Number of People I have seen, counting from the King, Don John, the Cardinals, Embassadors, the Grandees, the Courtezans, to all sorts of Folks, both of the Court and City. Every one holds a Wax-Candle in his Hand, and all their Ser­vants, [Page 163] which are numerous, carry Torches and Flamboys. In the Procession, all their Banners and Crosses are covered with Crape, and there's a vast number of Drums covered with the same, and they beat, as at the Death of a General. The Trum­pets sound some Melancholy Tune. The King's Guards, which are four Companies of different Nations, to wit, Burgundians, Spaniards, Germans, and L'Ancillians, have their Arms covered with Mourning, and trail them upon the ground. There are certain Machines, set upon Theatres, which represent the My­steries of the Life and Death of our Lord; the Figures are as big as Life, but very ill made and drest: There are some so heavy, that a hundred Men can but lift them, of which there's a vast number, for every Parish has some. I observ'd that of the Blessed Virgin flying into Egypt; she was upon an Ass which had good Furniture; the Housing was all over embroider'd with fine Pearls, the Figure was very great and heavy.

Here they are afraid lest sometimes the People should fail in their Devotion at Easter, and therefore for that reason, each Parish-Priest goes to every House, and enquires of the Master, how many Communicants he has? Being informed, he notes the Number in his Book: To every one that has receiv'd the Communion, they give a Printed Certificate. After Low-Sunday they visit all the Houses again, and demand to see the Certifi­cates, which they ought to have according to the first Account taken of them; and if they can shew none, there's a strict en­quiry made after him or her who has not Communicated. At this time the Poor who are sick, hang out a Carpet at their Door, and the Sacrament is brought to them in a very fine and Devout Procession.

Since my being at Madrid, I have seen very few stately Fu­nerals, except one for the Duke of Medina Celi's Daughter. Her Coffin was made of rare Indian Wood, put into a blue Velvet Bag, and crost with silver Mohair, with Cords of silver Thred, and the strings were of the same, and fastned the Bag at each end, like a stuff Cloak-bag. The Coffin was in a Hearse co­ver'd with white Velvet, set round with Garlands and Coronets curiously made of Flowers. And thus they carried her to Me­dina Celi, the capital City of the Dutchy of that Name.

Commonly they dress up the dead in the habit of some Re­ligious Order, and carry them all bare-fac'd into the Church where they are to be bury'd. If it is a Woman, they put her on the habit of the Carmelites. This Order is in great Venera­tion here; the Princesses of the Blood retire to their Convent. The Queens themselves, when they are Widows, are oblig'd [Page 164] to spend the rest of their Life there, unless the King otherwise appointed before his Death, as Philip IV. did in favour of Queen Mary Ann of Austria his Wife. And in case a Queen is Divorced, she must go into a Religious House; for Divorced or Widow, she has not the Liberty to marry again.

The Kings of Spain presume so much above other Kings, that they will not endure a Princess who has once been their Wife, should ever be so to another, let her have the greatest Passion in the World.

Don John hath a natural Daughter, a profess'd Carmelite at Madrid. She is wonderful handsom, and 'tis said she had no mind to take the Habit; but it was her fate, as 'tis of divers others of her Quality, who like it no more than she.

They call them the Descalcas Reales, which is to say, The Royal bare-feet. This reaches even to the King's Mistresses, whether they be unmarried or Widows, when he can love them no longer, they must turn Nunns.

I have seen some of the Works of St. Theresa, writ with her own Hand; the Character is Legible, large, and indifferent fair. Donna Beatrix Carillo, who is her Neece's Neece, keeps them very choisely. It was she that shew'd them to me. They con­sist of a Collection of Letters; I do not believe they were ever Printed; there's a great deal of Perfection in them; and throughout, one may discover a certain air of chearfulness and sweetness of Nature, which sufficiently declares the Character of that great Saint.

All the time of Lent, and even at other times, one meets with Preachers at every corner of a street, whose Sermons are ill enough contriv'd, and do as little good; but however in prea­ching as they do, they both satisfie their zeal and their desire. Their most constant Auditors are the blind Folks, which resem­ble our fingers upon Pont-Neus. Every one of them being led by a little Dog which does it very well, they go about singing of Romances and Cacara, which are certain old Stories or Mo­dern Events, which the People are very glad to know. They have a little Drum, and a Flute, on which they play. They of­ten sing a Song on King Francis the First, it beginning, When the King left France, to his Sorrow he left it, &c. Now I doubt you know it, dear Cousin, for who does not: This Song is sung in very bad French, and by Folks that do not understand one word of it; All that they understand is, That the King was taken by the Spaniards; and as this Price was much for their Glory, so they are willing to convey the Memory of it down to Posterity. There's a Flower-de-Luce all gilt upon the [Page 165] roof of the Chamber where this King was Prisoner; and I must not omit telling you, that the Prison is one of the fairest Buil­dings in Madrid; the Windows are as large as those of other Houses. There are indeed Iron Bars, but they are all gilt, and set at a distance great enough, to make any one think they were not design'd to hinder escapes. I stood amaz'd at the seeming neatness of a Place which in reality is unpleasant e­nough, and I thought that in Spain, they had a mind to con­tradict the French Proverb, which says, That, There's neither any handsome Prison, nor ugly Love. Pardon this Proverb, I do not love them so well to trouble you often with them.

All the Houshold-stuff one sees here, is extream rich, but not so neatly made as ours in France, and they come altogether short of our skill. It consists of Tapistry, Cabinets, Paintings, Looking-Glasses, and Plate. The Vice-Roys of Naples, and the Governours of the Low-Countries, have had most admirable Tapistry; the Vice-Roys of Sicily and Sardinia, shew most ex­cellent Embroideries and Statues; those of the Indies, Precious Stones, and Vessels of Gold and Silver. So that several return­ing home from time to time, laden with the Riches of another Kingdom, cannot chuse but to have enrich'd this City with abun­dance of valuable things.

They change their Furniture several times a year; their Winter-beds are of Velvet trim'd with thick Galoons of Gold; but they are so low, and the Valens so deep, that one is as if they were bury'd in them; and when one is in Bed, the border of the Valens lying almost upon the Counterpain, one can hard­ly be seen. In Summer they have neither Curtains, nor any thing else about the Bed; this looks very ill. Sometimes they hang colour'd Gauze to keep off the Gnats.

In Winter they have their Appartments very high, some­times in the fourth Story, according as the cold encreases, to keep them from it. At present they use their Summer Lodg­ings, which are low and very commodious. All their Houses have a great many Rooms on a floor; you go through a dozen or fifteen Parlours or Chambers one after another. Those which are the worst lodg'd have six or seven; the Rooms are general­ly longer than they are broad, the Floors and Seelings are nei­ther painted, nor gilt, they are made of Plaister quite plain, but so white that they dazle ones Eyes, for every year they are scrapt, and whited as the Walls, which look like Marble, they are so well polisht. The Court to their Summer Appartments is made of certain matter, which after it has had ten Pails of [Page 166] Water thrown upon it, yet is dry in half an hour after, and leaves a pleasant coolness; so that in the Morning they water all, and a little while after, they spread Matts or Carpets made of very fine Rushes, which cover all the Pavement. The whole Appartments are hung with the same small Matt about the depth of an Ell, to hinder the coldness of the Walls from hur­ting those which lean against them. On the top of these Matts, there are hung Pictures and Looking-Glasses. The Cushions which are of Gold and Silver Brocado, are placed up­on the Carpet, and the Tables and Cabinets are very fine, and at little distances there are set Silver Cases or Boxes, fill'd with Orange and Jessemin-Trees. In their Windows they set things made of Straw, to keep the Sun out, and in the Evenings they walk in their Gardens. There are several Houses which have very fine ones, where you see Grotta's and Fountains in abun­dance, for they have great plenty of Water here, and 'tis very good. In the number of these fine Houses they reckon, the Duke D'Ossona's, that of the Admiral of Castile's Lady, the Countess of Ognate, and the Constable of Castile; but I do wrong in particularizing of them, for there are a considerable number of them.

For the rest, it seems to me, that the great care they take, prevents the heats (let them be never so excessive) from being troublesom to them. But do not fancy, I beseech ye, that on­ly the great Lords have their low Appartments, for indeed every body else has them according to their Ability; though it be on­ly a little Cellar, they'll live in't very contentedly.

There are but few ordinary People at Madrid, one seldom sees any but Persons of Quality, if seven or eight Streets which are full of Tradesmen, are excepted. You see no Shops in this City, unless it be those where Sweet-meats, Liquors, Ice, and Pastry are sold.

I will not neglect telling you, that a thousand People here, have their Canopys; for without reckoning the Princes and the Dukes, the Titled (of which there is a vast number) have theirs also. These Titled, are those they call the Grandees of Spain, the real Marquises, and the real Counts. If there be thirty Chambers on a floor in a House, you shall there see as many Ca­nopys. My Kinswoman has twenty in her House: The King has made her Marchioness of Castille. You cannot imagine how gravely I look under a Canopy, particularly when they bring me my Chocolate; for three or four Pages cloth'd in black like Lawyers, serve me upon Knee. This is a Custom I had much [Page 167] ado to bring my self to, for methinks this respect ought to be paid to God only. But it is so common here, that if a Cob­ler's Prentice should present an old Shooe to his Master, he must do it with knee upon the Ground. This quality of Titulos gives them divers Priviledges, of which I have already told you, and particularly that of having a Canopy. They use no Ballisters about their Beds.

I have observed to you before, Dear Cousin, that our Houses are not near so well furnish'd in France, as the Per­sons of Quality here are, but chiefly as to Vessels of Silver, the difference is so very great, that one which had not seen it could hardly believe it: They use no Vessel of Tin or Pewter, but either Silver or Earthen-ware only, is what they make use of; and you must know their Plates here, weigh little less than our Dishes in France, every thing is made so strangely heavy.

The Duke of Alburqerque dy'd some time ago. I have been told, that they were six Weeks in weighing his Ves­sels of Gold and Silver, and writing them down; during this time they employ'd two whole hours every day; this was very chargable. Amongst other things, there were fourteen hundred dozen of Plates, five hundred great Dishes, and se­ven hundred little ones, and of every thing else proportio­nably; there were also forty Silver Ladders to set things on the Cup-bord, which was made to ascend by little Steps, like your Altars in a great Hall. When they told me of such great Wealth of a particular Man, I thought they jested with me, and therefore desir'd the Confirmation of it from Don Antonio de Toleda, Son to the Duke of Alba, who was in the same House; he assur'd me it was very true, and that his Father, who did not esteem himself rich in Vessels of Silver, had three hundred dozen of Silver Plates, and eight hundred Dishes. The mighty Meals which they make do not require such great store, unless it be at their Marriages, where every thing is magnificent. But that which causes such great abundance of Vessels, is, that they are brought from the Indies ready made, and pay no Custom to the King. The truth is, they are little better shap'd than their pieces of four Pistols, which they stamp in the Galeon as they come from that Country.

It would grieve a body to see the ill management of some great Lords; there are divers which will never go to their E­states, (for so they call their Lands, their Towns and Castles) but pass all their Lives at Madrid, and trust all to a Steward, [Page 168] who makes them believe what he judges most for his own In­terest. They will not so much as vouchsafe to enquire whether he speaks true or false; this would be too exact, and by con­sequence below them. This methinks is one considerable fault; the strange profusion of Vessels only for an Egg and a Pigeon, is another.

But it is not only in these things which they fail, but 'tis al­so in the daily Expences of their Houses; they know not what it is to lay up stores, or make Provision of any thing, but every day they fetch in what they want, and all upon trust, at the Bakers, Cooks, Butchers, and all other Trades; they are even ignorant what they set down in their Books, and they put down what price they will for every thing they sell, this matter is neither examin'd into, nor contradicted. There are often fifty Horses in a Stable, whithout either Corn or Straw, and they perish with Hunger; and when the Master is in Bed, and should be taken ill in the Night, he would be at a great loss; for they let nothing remain in his House, neither Wine nor Water, Charcoal nor Wax-candle, and in a word, nothing at all; for though they do not take in Pro­visions so near that there is nothing left, yet his Servants have a Custom of carrying the overplus away to their own Lodgings, and the next day they furnish themselves with the same things again.

They observe no better Rules with the Tradesmen; a Man or Woman of Quality had rather dye, than to haggle for, or ask the price of a Stuff, or Lace, or any other thing, or to take the remainder of a piece of Gold; they rather choose to give it the Tradesman for his pains of having sold them that for ten Pistols, which was not worth five. If there is a reasonable price made, he that sells to them is so honest not to take advantage of their easiness to give whatever is askt them; and as they have Credit given them for ten years together without ever thinking of paying, so at last they find themselves under great difficulties with their Debts.

It is very rare they engage in tedious Suits at Law, or let things come to extremity; they bring themselves to account, call their Creditors, and make over to them a certain part of their Lands, which for a limited time they enjoy. Some­times they give up every thing, and reserve only a Pension for Life, which cannot be medl'd with by any Creditors who may afterwards sell or lend any thing to them; and to the [Page 169] end they be not defrauded of it, they publish the agreement be­tween the Lord and his Creditors.

All Law-paper is mark'd, and costs more than the other. There's a certain time when they make a distribution of Law-Suits; they give the Instructions at Madrid, but there are few judg'd there; all the Papers of one side are put in­to a Bag, and those of the other, into another Bag, and the Instructions into a third; and when the time to distribute the Law-Suits is come, they send them to some distant Parlia­ments, so that very often one's Cause is try'd and judg'd with­out knowing any thing of it: It is writ in a Register whether the Cause was sent, which is kept very secret. When Judg­ment is given, it is sent back to Madrid, and is signify'd to the Parties. This Method saves a great deal of Trouble and Solli­citations, which in my Opinion ought always to be forbidden. As to business here, it is excessive tedious, whether it be at Court or in the City, and ruines one in a little time. The Spa­nish Practitioners are great Knaves in their Trade.

There are several different Councils, all compos'd of Persons of Quality, and the greatest part are Counsellors of the Sword. The first is the Council of State, the others are call'd the su­pream Council of War, the Royal Council of Castille, the Al­caides of Court, the Council of the Holy Inquisition, the Council of Orders, the Sacred, Supream and Royal Council of Arragon, the Royal Council of the Indies, the Council of the Chamber of Castille, the Council of Italy, the Council of the Finances, the Council of the Croisado, the Council of Flanders, the Court for the Duty of Horse, the Court for his Majesty's Woods, and the Courts of the Millions.

They understand so little how to manage things to the best advantage, that when a Father dyes and leaves ready Money, and some Children under Age, that they lock the Money up in a Chest, and never put it out to be improv'd. For Example, The Duke de Frias, whose Widow is marry'd to the Constable of Castille, left three Daughters, and six hundred thousand Crowns in ready Money, they put it into three Chests, with with the Name of each Daughter. The Eldest was not seven years old; she is now marry'd in Flanders to the Prince de Ligne. The Guardians constantly kept the Keys of these Chests, and never open'd that of the Eldest, but to compt it to her Husband. Observe what a loss there is of Interest: But they tell you it would be much worse, if the Principal happen'd to be lost; that sometimes when one thinks they have put it se­curely [Page 570] out, it proves quite otherwise: That a Bankrupt makes one lose all; so that it is better to gain nothing, than to hazard the Pupil's Estate.

It is time to come to an end, Dear Cousin; I shall be afraid to tire you with a longer Letter: I beseech you cause all those I send you, to be deliver'd, and pardon the freedom I take; Adieu, I embrace and constantly love you with all my Heart.

From Madrid this 27th of April, 1679.

LETTER X.

YOU did me a particular Kindness in letting me know that all my Letters come to your hands, for I was a little concern'd for the Two last: And since you still desire it, (dear Cousin) I shall con­tinue to inform you of every thing that passes, and of all that I observe in this Countrey.

The Royal Palace is built upon a Hill which insensibly de­scends to the very Banks of the River call'd Mansanarez: It looks several ways upon the Country, which is very plea­sant there. One goes to it through the Callemayor, that is to say, the Great Street, which indeed is both very long and broad, several considerable Houses add to its Beauty. There's a large open place before the Palace, no body of what Qua­lity soever, is allow'd to come with a Coach into the Court, [Page 172] but they stop under the great Arch of the Porch, except it be when Bonefires are made there, or when there are Mas­querades, and then Coaches go in, a very small number of Halbardeers stand at the Gate, upon my asking, why so great a King had so small a Guard, why, Madam, says a Spaniard to me, Are not we all his Guards? He reigns too absolutely in the Hearts of his Subjects, either to fear any thing, or distrust them. The Palace stands at the end of the City towards the South, it is built of very white Stone, Two Pavillions com­pleat the Front, the rest is not regular. Behind it, there are two square Courts, each consisting of four sides, the first is adorn'd with two great Terrass-walks, which run quite through, they are rais'd upon high Arches, and are beautified with Ballisters and Statues: That which I observ'd very singu­lar, was, that the Womens Statues had Red upon their Cheeks and Shoulders, you go through fine Porches which bring you to the Stair-case, which is extream large, the Apartments are furnisht with excellent Pictures, admirable Tapistry, most rare Statues, stately Houshold Goods, and in a word, with every thing suitable to a Royal Palace. But there are divers of the Rooms dark, I saw some which had no Window, and receiv'd Light only when the Door open'd, those which have Win­dows are but little lighter, because of their smallness, they al­ledge that the Heat is so excessive, that they are willing to hinder the Sun from coming in, as much as they can. But there's yet another Reason, for Glass is very scarce and dear; and as to other Houses, there are many which have Windows without any Glass; and when they would describe a compleat House, they'll tell you in one word, that 'tis Glaz'd. This want of Glass does not appear without, because of the Latices. The Palace is addorn d with divers gilt Balconies, which in­deed look very fine. All the Councils sit there, and when the King has a mind to be present, he passes through certain Gal­leries and little Entries unperceiv'd. There's a great many People perswaded, that the Castle of Madrid, which Francis the Fifth caus'd to be built near the Wood of Bologn, was af­ter the Model of the King of Spain's Palace; but 'tis a mis­take, and nothing is less alike. The Gardens are not suitable to the Dignity of the Place, they are neither large enough, nor so well improv'd as they should be, the Ground as I have observ'd, reaches to the very Brink of Mansanarez, the whole is inclos'd with Walls; and if these Gardens have any Beauty, they owe it purely to Nature. They work hard to get the Young Queens Apartment ready for her Reception, all her [Page 173] Servants are nam'd, and the King expects her with the great­est Impatience.

The Buen Retiro is a Royal House near one of the Gates of the City, the Count Duke caus'd at first, a little house to be built there, and call'd it Galinera, it was for keeping his rare Poultry in, which had been presented to him, and as he often went to see them, and the Scituation of the Place was on the descent of a little Hill, and there was a pleasant Prospect, so he was invited to undertake a considerable Building. Four great Apartments and four great Pavillions make a perfect Square. In the middle there's a Flower-Pot, well furnish'd with Flowers, and a Fountain, whose Statue (which throws the Water when they have a mind) Sprinkles the Flowers and the Cross-Walks, which goes from one Apartment to another. This Building has the fault of being too low, the Rooms are large, stately and adorn'd with curious Paintings. Every thing shines with Gold and lively Colours, with which the Cielings and Floors are beautified. I took notice in the great Gal­lery, of the Entry of Queen Elizabeth, Mother to the late Queen, she's on Horseback, with a Ruff and Fardingal, she has a Hat trimm'd with Jewels and a Plume of Feathers; she is fat, fair and pleasing, she has fine Eyes, and her Looks are sweet and ingenious. The Room for acting Plays in, is well design'd, very large, all well set out, with Carving and Guild­ing, there may be fifteen in a Box without inconvenience to each other, they have all Latice Windows, and the King's is richly guilt, there's neither Galleries nor Amphitheatre, e­very body sits upon Benches on the Floor. On the side of the Terrass is the Statue of Philip the II. upon a Horse of Brass, this Piece is of great Value, those that are curious please them­selves in taking a draught of him. The Park is above a good League in compass, there are in it divers separate Lodges, very pretty, and which have good Accomodation of room, there's a Canal which is supply'd with Water from Springs at a vast Charge, and another square Place in which the King has little Gundoloes painted and gilt, thither he goes during the great Heats of the Summer, the Fountains, Trees and Meadows making that Place more cool and pleasant than any other, there's Grottos, Cataracts, Ponds, Shades, and in some parts even something of the wild Fields, which shews the sim­plicity of the Countrey, and is extream delightful.

The Casa del Campo is for rural Affairs, it is not great, but its Scituation is fine, being upon the Bank of Mansanarez, the the Trees in't are high, and yield a Shade at all times. I speak [Page 174] of the Trees of this Country, because one finds very few of them, there's Water in divers parts of it, particularly one Pond which is surrounded with great Oaks. The Statue of Philip the IV. is in the Garden, this Place is a little neg­lected here, I saw Lions, Bears, Tigers and other wild Beasts, which live very long in Spain, because the Climate is little different from that from which they come, many People go there to think, and the Ladies usually choose this Place to walk in, because 'tis less frequented than others. But to return to Mansanarez, this River does not run up to the City, at certain times, it is neither River, nor so much as a Brook, tho at other times it is so big and rapid, that it carries before it all that stands in its way, all the Summer People walk in it, there's so little water in't at this season, that one can hardly wet ones foot, and yet in Winter, all on a sudden, it over­flows the adjacent Country, this is caus'd by the melting of the great Quantities of Snow which covers the Hills, and so de­scends into the Mansanarez in violent Torrents of Water, Philip the II. caus'd a Bridge to be built over it, which they call'd the Segovie Bridge, it is a very lofty one, and every way as fine as the Pont-neuf, over the River Seine at Paris, when Strangers see it, they fall a laughing, they think it ridiculous to have caus'd such a Bridge to be built, where there's no Water. Hereupon there was one said wittily enough, he would advise 'em to sell the Bridge, and buy some Water.

The Florid is a most pleasant House, and its Gardens are infinitely delightful; there are in great numbers Italian Sta­tues by the best Masters: The Water there makes a pretty sort of a murmur, which with the sweet smell of the Flowers, (of which they have a Collection of the rarest and best scent) is very charming. From thence we come to the Prado Nuevo, where there are several spouting Fountains, and Trees there are of an extraordinary height; this is a Walk, which though it be not even Ground, yet is not less agreeable; its descent is so easie, that one hardly perceives the unevenness of the Place.

There is also the Carzuela, which affords nothing but Con­trary delights, and some cool Rooms, where the King comes and rests himself after Hunting; but 'tis the Prospect which yields the Pleasure, and very fine things might be there made.

That I may tell you of something else besides the Kings Houses, you must know, dear Cousin, that on May-day, they resort to a Place without the gate of Toleda. This is called [Page 175] El Sotillo, and no body excuse themselves from going thither; to be sure then I went, but it was more to see then be seen, thô my French-Dress made me very remarkable, and drew a great many Eyes upon me, The Women of great Quality ne­ver go abroad to take the Air in their whole Life, except it be in the first year of their Marriage, I mean into publick Walks and Places; and then too, 'tis under the very noses of their Husbands, the Wife at the lower, and the Husband at the up­per end of the Coach; the Curtains all open, and she finely a­dorn'd: but 'tis a rediculous thing to see these two Creatures sit like Statues, looking at each other, and without speaking a word in an hours time. There are certain days set apart for walking and taking the Air, all Madrid go abroad then; the King is seldom there, but except the King and a few Courtiers, no body else fail of going. That which makes it very trouble­some is, their long Traces, which take up a great compass of Ground, and occasion the Horses often to entangle. Several Ladies which are not of the highest Rank, resort thither, but with their Curtains close drawn; they only look through little Glasses which are fastned into the sides of the Coach: but at Night the Ladies of great Quality come Incognito; and when 'tis dark they please themselves so far as to walk a foot: They wear white Mantles upon their Heads; these are a kind of a Hood made of Woolen stuff, which covers them all over; they Embroider them with black Silk: they are only the or­dinary Women, and such as go upon some Intreague, which wear them; yet sometimes, as I have said, certain Court-La­dies will go in this Dress. The Cavallero's also alight and walk, and say some odd thing or other to them, but they meet with their match.

The Count de Berka, the German Enyoy, told me, that t'other Night as he was at Supper, and his Windows (because of the cold) being shut, somebody knock'd at the Lattice of his Hall, he sent to see who it was; they found three Wo­men in white Mantles, who desired to have the Windows o­pen'd that they might see him. He sent them word, that they would be more conveniently in the Hall: They came in all concealed, and placed themselves in a corner, and so stood all the while he was at Table. He intreated them (but in vain) to sit down and eat some Sweet-meats, but they would neither do one nor t'other; but after they had said a great ma­ny merry things to him, in which they abundantly shewed a strange quickness of Wit, they went away. He discovered that these were the Dutchesses de Medina Celi, d' Ossona and [Page 176] Ducada, having seen them at their own Houses; for Ambas­adors have the priviledge sometimes to go to the great La­dies, and to give them a visit of Audience; but he was willing to have yet a greater certainty, and therefore caused them to be follow'd: and they were seen to go into one of their Houses by a false Door, at which some of their Women waited for them. These little Disguises are not always attended with o­ver-much Innocence.

As to the Men, when Night comes, they walk a foot in the Prado; they make up to the Coaches in which they see Wo­men, and leaning upon the Bouts, they either throw Flowers, or sprinkle sweet Water upon them; and when they are per­mitted, they go into the Coach to them.

But as to the meeting on May-day, It is certainly a great pleasure to see the Citizens and the People how they sit; some upon the young Corn, some upon the sides of the Mansana­rez, others playing at Ombre, and others either with their Wives, Children, Friends or Mistresses, basking themselves in the Sun; some are eating of a Sallad with Leeks and Oni­ons, and others, hard Eggs; and others Gamon of Bacon, and even Galinas de Loche, which are Sea-Hens, and very ex­cellent. They all drink Water like Ducks, and play either up­on the Guittar or Harp. The King came there with Don John, the Duke de Medina Celi, the Constable de Castile, and the Duke de Pastratie; I only saw his Coach of green Oil-cloth, drawn by six py'd Horses, the finest in the World; and all co­vered over with Gold-spangles, and knots of Rose-coloured Ribbon: The Curtains of the Coach were of green Damask, with a fine gold Fringe, but so close drawn, that one could per­ceive nothing but through the little Glasses on the sides of the Coach. It is the Custom, when the King passes by, to stand still, and in respect, to draw the Curtains; but we, according to the French fashion, let ours be open, and were satisfied in making a very low Bow. The King took notice of a Spaniel-bitch I had in my Arms, and which the Marchioness d' Alvi, who is a very pretty Lady, desired me to carry to the Con­stable of Colonna's Lady; and as I lov'd it mightily, she sent it to me very often. The King sent the Count de los Arcos, Captain of the Spanish Guards, to ask me for it; he came up to the Coach side on Horse-back. I immediately gave it to him, and the Creature had the Honour to be made much of by his Majesty, was mightily pleased with the little Bells about her Neck; and the Buckles upon her Ears. He had a Bitch which he lov'd extreamly, and he sent to ask me if I would be wil­ling [Page 177] that he should keep mine for Daraza, which was the Name of his.

You may easily imagine, Dear Cousin, what answer I made. He returned me the Spaniel, but without either her Collar or Buckles, and he order'd the Count de Los Arcos to give me a gold Box full of Pastills, which he had about him, and desired me to keep it. It is but of a small value, but coming from such a hand, I mightily esteem it.

It was Don John, who is my Kinswomans Friend, which ob­tain'd this mark of the King's bounty to me; for he knew of my being in Madrid, though I had not had the Honour yet to see him.

Two days afterwards, as I was all alone in my apartment, busie in painting a small piece, I saw come in, a Man whom I knew not; but one, who by the air of his Face, I could easily judge to be of Quality: He told me, that not having met with my Kinswoman, he was resolved to tarry till she came, for he had Letters to give her. After some little Discourse, he gave occasion to talk of Don John, and told me that he doubt­ed not, that I frequently saw him. I reply'd, that indeed, since my arrival, this Prince came often to visit my Kinswo­man, but he never ask'd for me. The reason of that perhaps, adds he, was, because you were sick that day. I was not sick, reply'd I, and I should have been very glad both to have seen and heard him, for I have been told both good and ill of him, and I have a mind to know whether they do him right or wrong. I have signify'd my desire to my Kinswoman, but she told me, there was no way to gratifie me, for he was so devout, that he would speak to no Woman. It is possible, says he, in smiling, that his Devotion should so much disturb his Mind? for my part, I am confident he ask'd for you, and was assur'd that you were ill of a Feaver; Of a Feaver! cry'd I, that's very strange! I beseech ye, how do you know it? But just then, my Kinswoman came in, she was extreamly a­mazed to find Don John with me, and so was I, for I little thought it was he. He told her several times, that he knew not how to pardon her for the Idea she had given me of him, that he was no Bigot, and that he was persuaded, true Devo­tion did not make a Man rude and inhumane,

I think him very handsome, of a noble Carriage, very well bread, and extream witty, and of a mighty quickness of Mind. As my Kinswoman has a great share of Wit, so she clear'd her self well enough from what he taxt her with. But when he was gone, she was ready to eat me for anger, because I [Page 178] deny'd having had a Feaver. I desir'd her to excuse me, be­cause me, because I was ignorant what she had said to him, and that I could not divine: She answer'd me, that at Court, one must either be able to divine, or else they would act a very silly part.

She ask'd the Prince, if it was true, that the Queen-Mother had writ to the King, and beg'd that she might see him, and that he had refus'd her. He agreed it was, and also, that that was the only reason which hindred his Majesty from going to Aranjus, lest she should come to him there, contrary to the Prohibition for her not stiring out of Toleda. What, my Lord, said I, will not the King see the Queen his Mother? Say ra­ther, reply's he, that 'tis State-Policy which forbids Sovereigns to follow their Inclinations when they do not suit with the publick good. We have a constant Maxim in the Council of State, al­ways to consult the Spirit of Charles V. in all difficult Matters; we enquire what he would have done upon such an occasion, and that we endeavour to practice in our turn. For my part, I am of Opinion with a great many others, that he ought not to see his Mother, since it was fit for him to banish her; and the King himself is so fully perswaded of this, that he answered her, it could not be. But it was not difficult for me to see, that Don John fitted the Genius of Charles V. to his own.

The King is gone to Buen Retiro, where I had the Honour to see him first, at a Play, for he open'd the Lattice of his Box to look at us in ours, because we were drest after the French way. The Danish Ambassador's Lady was drest after the same fashion, and so handsome, that he told the Prince of Monteleon, he was mightily taken with us, only it was pitty that our Heads were not trim'd, and our Bodies clad after the Spanish mode; that the more he look'd at the French Ladies Cloths, the more they displeas'd him, that the Mens did not so much offend him. The Opera of Alcinus was acted before him, but I gave little Attention to it, looking so earnestly at the King, that I might be able to describe him to you. I must tell you then, that his Complexion is delicate and fair, he has a broad Fore-head, his Eyes are fine and have a great deal of sweetness in them; his Face is very long and narrow, his Lips like those of the House of Austria, are very thick, and his Mouth is wide, his Nose is very much hawk't, his Chin is sharp and turns up, he has a great Head of Hair, and fair, lank and put behind his Ears, his Stature is pretty high, straight and slender, his Legs are small, and almost all of a [Page 179] thickness: He is naturally very kind and good, he is inclin'd to Clemency and of the great variety of Council he has given him, he takes that which is most for the advantage of his People, for he loves them extreamly. He is not of a vindicative Spirit, he is sober, liberal and pious; his Inclinations are Virtuous, he is of an even temper, and of easie access: He hath not had all that Education which is requisite to form the Mind, but yet he does not want any neither. I will now note some of his merry Humours which have been told me, and though they are of no great importance, yet it may still be pleasant to know them.

It is not long since the Lady Connestable de Collonna, who is in a Religious House at St. Domingo, got out of the Abbey, from whence she had made several Escapes; the Nuns tyr'd with her proceeding, resolv'd to admit her no more; and indeed the last time she endeavour'd to get in, they plainly told her, that she might either betake her self to the World, or chose some other place than their House for a Retirement. She was extreamly offended at this refusal, which by no means suited with a Person of her Quality and Merit. She got some of her Friends to apply themselves to the King, and he sent Orders to the Abbess to receive her in again. The Abbess and all the Nuns were obstinate in their refusal, saying that they would themselves represent their Reasons to his Majesty, and in their Persons go to him. When this Answer of the Nuns was re­lated to the King, he burst out a laughing, and said, It will be pretty sport to see this Procession of the Nuns, who will come along singing, Libera nos Domine de la Condestabile. But yet they did not go, and chose rather to obey, which is always safest.

Some days ago it rain'd and thunder'd most terribly; the King, who sometimes pleases himself in playing little Tricks with his Courtiers, commanded the Marquis d' Astorgas to wait for him upon the Terras walk in the Palace. The good old man said to him in smiling, Sir, will it be long before you come? Why do you ask, said the King? that your Majesty, reply'd he, may send a Coffin to put me in, for there's no likelyhood that I should be able to contend with such Weather as this. Go, go Marquess, says the King, I'll come to you. The Mar­quess went out, and without any Scruple, stept into his Coach and went directly home. Two hours afterwards, the King said, for certain the good old Man is wet to the Skin, let him be call'd in, I have a mind to see him in such a Condition. But they told the King that he did not expose himself at all, [Page 180] upon which he said, that he was not only old, but very wise.

There was taken a little while since near the Palace disguis'd in man's Clothes, one of the handsomest Misses of Madrid, she had set upon her Gallant, of whom she believ'd she had cause to complain, he knowing her by her voice and the manner of handling her Sword, would not make use of his to defend him­self, so far from it, that he opened his Wast-coat, and gave her free leave to thrust at him, thinking perhaps, that she ei­ther was not angry, or had not Courage enough to do it; but he deceiv'd himself, for with all her strength she made a Pass at him, which made him drop down, she no sooner perceiv'd his Blood, but she threw her self upon the ground, and cri'd out most dreadfully, tore her Skin off her Face, and pull'd her Hair off her Head: the People which were got about her very well perceiv'd by her Looks, and her long Hair, that she was a Woman, the Officers of Justice seiz'd her, and some Lords passing by at that time, seeing her, related to the King what had happen'd: He had a mind to speak with her, she was brought before him; Art thou she, said he, to her, that has wounded a Man near the Palace, Yes, Sir, answered she, I was resolv'd to be revenged of an ungrateful Man; he promis'd I should have his Heart, and yet I am assur'd he gave it since to another. But why art thou so afflicted, repli'd he, since thou hast got thy Revenge? Ah Sir, continued she, in seeking my Revenge, I have punisht my self, I am now upon the brink of Despair, I beseech your Majesty to command them to put me to death, for I have deserv d the severest Torment. The King took pity of her, and turning to those about him, Well, really, said he, I can hardly believe that there's in the World so mi­serable a State, as to love and not be belov'd. Go, said he, thou hast more Love than Reason, But endeavour to be wiser for the future, and do not abuse that Liberty I restore to thee. And thus she withdrew without being carri'd to the Place where they keep miserable Wretches that have led ill Lives.

All this that I have told you of the King has carri'd me from the Opera of Alcinous, the first time I saw it was, with so much wandring of Mind, that when I saw it again, it appear'd quite new to me, there was never seen more sorry Machines, they made the Gods come down on Horseback upon a Beam which reacht from one end of the Theater to the other; the Sun shin'd by the help of a dousen of oyl'd Paper Lanthorns, in each of which there was a Lamp: when Alcinous practis'd her Enchantments, and invok'd the Demons, they came conveni­ently [Page 181] out of Hell by Ladders: Le Gratiosa, that is to say, the Jack-pudding said a thousand Impertinences, the Singers had in different good voices, only they sang too much in the Throat. Heretofore there was a Liberty for several sorts of People to come into the great Room, but this Custom is chang'd, and now there's only suffer'd to come in, the Great Lords, and at the most, the Tutulados and the Knights of the Three Military Orders. This Room is certainly a very fair one, it is all paint­ed and gilt; the Boxes, as I have already told you, are al­ways Barr'd with Lattices like those we have at the Opera; but they reach from top to bottom, and look as if they were Chambers, that side where the King sits is magnificent. As for the rest, the finest Comedy in the World (I mean those that are acted in the City) very often receives its Fate from the weak Fancy of some ignorant Wretch or other. But there is one particularly, and a Shoomaker, which decides the matter, and who hath gain'd such an absolute Authority so to do, that when the Poets have made their Plays, they go to him and as 'twere, sue for his Approbation, they read to him their Plays, the Shoomaker with grave Looks thereupon, utters abundance of Nonsence, which nevertheless the poor Poet is forced to put up, after all, if he happens to be at the first Acting of it, every body has their Eye upon the Behaviour and Actions of this pitiful Fellow, the Young People of what Quality soever imi­tate him. If he Yawns, they yawn, if he laughs so do they. In a word, sometimes he grows angry or weary, and then takes a little whistle and falls a whistling, at the same time you shall hear a hundred whistles, which makes so shril a noise that 'tis enough to confound the heads of the Spectators. By this time our poor Poet is quite ruin'd, All his Study and Pains having been at the Mercy of a Block-head, according as he was in a good or bad humour.

In this Play-house, there is a certain part of it, which is call'd La Casuela, it is like the Amphitheater, all the Women that are not over-vertuous sit there, and thither the great Lords go to talk with them, sometimes they make such a noise that they would outdo the Thunder, and they say things so ve­ry pleasant, that they would make one die with laughing: for their Wit is free from all restraint of Decency. Besides, they are inform'd of all things that happen in the Town; and if they had a merry Jest to break upon their Majesties, they had rather be half hang'd then lose it.

It may be said, that the Women Players are ador'd in this Court, there's hardly any that is not the Mistress of some great [Page 182] Person, and for whom several Duels have been fought, and a great many People kill'd. I do not know how charming their Discourse may be, but I am sure their Persons are the ugliest in the World, they are extravagantly expensive, and sooner must a whole Family perish with Hunger and Thirst, than one of those beggerly Players should want the least Superfluity.

We are now in a Season that's troublesome enough, for 'tis the Custom here to put their Mules to Grass, and every body almost walks a foot. At this time you can see nothing but Grass brought from all parts, and the greatest Lord hardly keeps two Mules to draw him, for this reason they often go on Horseback.

Those Horses which have been at the Bull-baitings and are good for these sort of Sports, are dear, and much in request. The King had a mind to divert himself, and ordered a Bull-Feast to be on the Twenty second of this Month, I was very glad of it, for though I had heard much talk of them, I never saw any yet; and the young Count De Conismark, who is a Swede, would Taurise, or Bait the Bull for a young Lady of my Acquaintance, so that I was the more eager to go to the Pla­ca-Mayor, where my Kinswoman, as she was a Tutulada of Castille, had her Balcony set up with a Canopy, a Carpet and Cushion of State. To give you a particular Account of all that passes at these Feasts, I must tell you, that after the King has appointed one of them, there are some Cows, which they call Mandarines, led into the Forrests and Mountains of Andalousia. It is known that the most furious Bulls are in these Places, and as they are train'd up for this purpose, so they run into the Wood; the Bulls spy them out, and eagerly court them, those fly and these pursue them, and so are decoy'd into certain Pallisadoes, set on purpose along the way, which is sometimes Thirty or Forty Leagues in Length, several Men are armed with Half­pikes and well mounted, hunt these Bulls and hinder them from coming back, but it is not seldom that they are forc'd to fight them within these Pales, and frequently they are kill'd or wounded.

There are People placed all along the Road, which bring ad­vice when the Bulls will arrive at Madrid, and there also they set Pallisadoes in the Street to prevent any mischief.

The Mandarines, who are real traitors, go constantly before, and the poor Bulls quietly follow after, into the very place de­sign'd for baiting them, where there are great Stables built on purpose with Shutters contriv'd to keep them in, there are sometimes 30, 40, or 50, Together, this Stable has two Doors, [Page 183] the Mandarines go in at one, and escape at the other; and when the Bulls think to follow them still they are hindred by Trap, in which they are caught.

After they have rested a few hours, they are one after ano­ther let out of the Stable into the great Place, where there are a great many young, lusty, strong Peasants, some of which take the Bull by the horns, and others by the tail, and because they mark him upon the Buttock with a hot iron, and slit his ears, they call them Heradores. This is not so easily done, for there are frequently divers Persons kill'd, and this is the be­ginning of the Shew, which always mightily delights the Peo­ple, whether it be upon the Account that Blood is shed, or else, that they love to see something extraordinary, and at first sight surprizing, and which afterwards furnishes with matter for long Reflections; but though unlucky Accidents do happen at these Feasts, yet it does not appear that they take any Warning from them, for they are still forward to expose themselves at at every Baiting that's made.

The Bulls are fed, and the best of them are pickt out for the Baiting; they can even distinguish those that are either Sons or Brothers of those Bulls which made a great slaughter in for­mer Feasts, they tie to their horns a long Ribbon, and by the colour of that every body knows them again, and recites the History of their Ancestors; that the Grandsire or great Grand­sire of these Bulls bravely kill'd such and such a one, and they expect no less from those that then appear.

When they have sufficiently rested, the Placa Mayor is co­vered with Sand, and round it are placed Bars as high as a Man, upon which are painted the Arms of the King and his King­doms. I fancy this Place to be larger than the Place Royal at Paris, it is longer than it is broad, and about it are Houses built upon Pillars and Arches, like Towers, five Stories high, and to each a row of Balconies, into which there are great Glass-doors. The King's stands more forward than the rest, is more spacious, and all gilt. It is in the middle of one of the sides, with a Canopy over it; over against it are the Ambas­sadours Balconies, who have place when the King goes to Chap­pel, that is the Nuncio, the Emperor's Ambassadours, that of France, of Poland, the Venetian, and that of Savoy; those of England, Holland, Swedland, Denmark and other Protestant Princes, have none there. The Councils of Castille, Arragon, the Inquisiton, Italy, Flanders, the Indies, the Orders, War, the Croisado, and of the Finances, are on the right hand of the King: they are distinguisht by their Arms upon their Crimson Velvet [Page 184] Carpets which are all embroider'd with Gold. After these, are placed the city Companies, the Judges, the Grandees and Titu­lodos, according to their severall Degrees, and at the King's Charge, or else at the City's, who hire these Balconies of pri­vate Persons that dwell there.

For all those I have now nam'd the King makes a Collation; and it is given in very neat Baskets, to the Women as well as the Men, it consists of Fruits dri'd, Sweet-meats, and Water cool'd with Ice, of Gloves, Ribbons, Fans, Pastiles, Silk-stockings, and Garters, insomuch that these Feasts always cost above a hundred thousand Crowns, and this Expence is defray'd out of the Fines and Forfeitures adjudg'd to the King, or to the City, this is a Fund which must not be medl'd with, tho t'were to save the Kingdom from the greatest Danger, the doing of it might cause a Sedition. So bewitcht are the People with this kind of Pleasure.

From the Level of the Pavement to the first Balcony, there are Scaffolds made for the rest of the People, they give from Fifteen to twenty Pistols for a Balcony; and there is not any but what are lett, and adorn'd with rich Carpets, and fine Ca­nopies. The People are not seated under the King's Balcony, that Place is fill'd with his Guards, there's only Three Gates open into it, through which the Persons of Quality pass in their richest Coaches, and particularly the Ambassadors; and they make several turns round it, a little before the King comes. The Cavaliers salute the Ladies who stand in the Balconies, without being cover'd with their Mantles or Vails, they are deck'd out with all their Jewels, and whatever they have that is finest. One can see nothing but extream rich Stuffs, with Tapistry, Cushions and Carpets, all of rais'd work in Gold. I never saw any thing more glorious, the King's Balcony is hung round with Green and Gold Curtains, which he draws when he will not be seen.

The King came about four a clock, and immediately all the Coaches went out of the Place. Generally the Ambassador of France is the most taken notice of, because he and all his Train are dress'd after the French mode; and he is the only Ambassa­dor that has this Priviledge here, for the others are in the Spa­nish Dress. There's five or six Coaches go before the King's, in which are the Officers, the Gentlemen and Pages of his Cham­ber. The Coach of Honour, in which there goes no body, marches immediatly before his Majesty's own, whose Coachman and Postilion are always barehead, a Footman carrying their Hats; the Coach is surrounded with Foot-Guards. Those which [Page 185] they call the Life-Guard have Partisans, and march very near the Coach, and next the Boots go a great many of the King's Pages, cloath'd in Black, and without Swords, which is the on­ly mark to know them from other Pages. As the Ladies that are design'd to be about the young Queen, are already nam'd, so they all came under the Conduct of the Dutchess of Terra Nova, in the King's Coaches, they march by the Mens Boutes of the highest Quality, some on Foot that they might be nearer, others mounted on the finest Horses in the World, train'd up for that purpose, and which they call Horses of Motion. That they may perform this piece of Gallantry, they must have leave from their Mistresses, otherwise 'tis a great Blemish to their Reputation, and even engages the Ladies Kindred in Trouble, for they take their Honour to be concern'd in this Liberty: But when she approves of it, they may practise all the pleasant Humours, for which these sort of Feasts minister occasion. But though they need fear nothing from the Ladies they serve, nor their Relations, yet they are not freed from all uneasiness, for the Duegno's or Women of Honour, of which there's too great a Provision in each Coach, and the Guardadamas which go on Horseback, are troublesome Observers, hardly can one begin to discourse, but these old Haggs will draw the Curtain, and the Guardadamas will tell you, that that Love which is fullest of Respect is the most discreet, so that very often one must be content to let the Eyes speak, and to sigh so loud, that one may be heard at a Distance.

All things being thus dispos'd, the Captains of the Guards and the other Officers mounted upon very fine Horses, enter the Place, at the head of the Spanish, German, and Burgundian Guards, they are cloath'd in Yellow Velvet or Sattin, which is the Livery of the King, trim'd with tufted crimson Galoon mixt with Gold and Silver. The Yeomen of the Guard, which I call the Life-Guard, wear only a short Cloak of the same Live­ry, over black Cloaths. The Spaniards wear Breeches tuckt up after the old way. The Germans, which are called Tudesques, wear them like the Switzers, they stand in Ranks near the King's Balcony, while the two Captains and the two Lieute­nants, who carry each of them a Staff of command in their Hands, and are follow'd by a great many in Liveries, march all four in a Rank, at the head of the Guards, several times round the Place, to give the necessary Orders, and to salute the La­dies of their Acquaintance; their Horses curvet and bound con­tinually, they are covered with knots of Ribbons, and embroi­dered Housings; they are called Pissadoyes for Distinction. Up­on [Page 186] this day every one of these Lords affect to wear that colour which their Mistresses love most.

When the People are come without the Bars, and are seated upon their Scaffolds, the Place is water'd with forty or fifty Tuns of Water which is brought thither in little Carts. Then the Captains of the Guards come back, and take their Posts un­der the King's Balcony, where all the Guards are likewise pla­ced, and make a sort of a Fence, standing very close together; and although the Bulls are sometimes ready to kill them, yet they must not go back nor stir from their place; they only present to them the Point of their Halberds, and so with a great deal of hazard defend themselves.

I do assure you that this strange number of People, (for every place is full, even the tops of the Houses as well as the rest) the Balconies so richly set out, and so many beautiful Women in them, this great Court, the Guards, and in a word, the whole place makes one of the finest shews that ever I saw.

As soon as the Guards are possess'd of the quarter where the King is, six Alguazils, or City Door-keepers, enter the place, each holding a white Rod: Their Horses are excellent, har­nass'd after the Morisco fashion, and cover'd with little Bells. Their Habit is black, they wear Plumes of Feathers, and put the best Looks on they can, in so much danger as they are in; for they are not allow'd to stir out of the List: and 'tis their busi­ness to fetch the Knights that are to fight.

I should tell you, before I proceed any further in this short Description, that there are certain Laws establish'd for this sort of Baiting, which are call'd Duelo, that is, Duel, because one Knights assault the Bull, and fights him in single Combat. These are some of the things which are observed: One must be a Gentleman born, and known for such, that he may fight on Horseback. It is not allow'd to draw the Sword upon the Bull, unless he has insulted over you; they call it insulting when the Bull breaks or forces the Garrochion or Lance out of the Hand, or if he make your Hat fall off, or your Cloak, or has wounded you or your Horse, or any of your Company. In this case, the Knight is oblig'd to push his Horse directly upon the Bull; for this is an Empenno, that is to say, an affront that engages one to be reveng'd, or to dye; and he must give him Ʋna Cachilada, or a back stroke upon his Head or Neck. But if the Horse on which the Cavallero rides, refuses to go up to the Bull, then immediately he alights, and couragiously marches up a foot to this fierce Animal. The Sword is very short, and about three fingers broad. The other Knights which are there [Page 187] to fight, are also oblig'd to alight off their Horses and accom­pany him, that is under the Empenno; but they do not second him, so as to assist him in the least against his Enemy. If they all march up in this manner towards the Bull, and he flies to the other end of the Place instead of tarrying for them, or meeting them, after they have pursu'd him some time, they have satisfied the Laws of Duelling.

If there be in the Town any Horses that have been at a Bai­ting, and are dextrous at it, though they do not know the Ow­ners, yet they'll borrow them; nay, though they do not desire to sell them, nor the others in a condition to buy them, yet they never refuse them. If by mischance the Horse is killed, and they offer to pay for him, it is not accepted; because, to receive Money upon such an occasion would not be agreeable to the Spanish Generosity. Nevertheless, it would vex a Man to have a Horse that he had taken pains to breed up, without any more ado taken from him by the first Stranger, and through his means kill'd. This sort of Combat is reckon'd so dangerous, that Indulgencies are expos'd in several Churches for those days, because of the great Massacre that is then made. Several Popes would have quite abolish'd such barbarous sights, but the Spaniards beg'd the Court of Rome so earnestly to let them continue, that their Humour has been comply'd with, and to this day they are tolerated.

The first day I was there, the Alguazils came to the Gate, which is at the end of the List, to fetch the six Knights (of whom the Count de Connismark was one) which offer'd them­selves to Combat. Their Horses are handsome to admiration and most richly harnass'd: Besides those they ride on, they had each of them a dozen led by Grooms, with as many Mules loaded with Rejones or Garochons, which are, as I have said, Launces made of very dry Fir, about four or five foot long, painted and gilt, and the Iron-work very well polish'd; and the Mules were cover'd with Velvet Cloths of the same colour of the Combatants, with their Arms embroider'd in Gold: This is not practis'd at all Feasts, when the City orders one, there's far less Magnificence; but as the King commanded this, and it was upon his Marriage, nothing was omitted.

The Cavalleros were drest in black, embroider'd either with Gold and Silver, Silk or Bugles; they had white Plumes of Feathers spotted with several colours, and a rich knot of Diamonds, with a Hat-band of the same. They had Scarfs, some white, and others crimson, blue and yellow, embroidered with Gold. Some wore them round their Wast, others over their Shoul­ders [Page 188] like a Belt, and others about their Arm; these last were narrow and short, without doubt their Mistresses presented them, for commonly they run to please them, and to shew that there's no danger to which they would not expose themselves for their diversion. They had also a black Cloak which wrapt them about, but the ends being thrown behind them, it did not hinder their Arms: they wore little white Buskins, with long guilt Spurs, which have only one sharp point after the Moors fashion; they also sit a Horse like them, which is called Cavalgas a la gineta.

The Cavalleros were handsomly mounted, and lookt grace­fully enough for this Country; they were nobly born, and eve­ry one had forty Foot-men, some cloath'd in gold Mohair trim'd with Lace; others in Carnation-colour'd Brocado, stript with Gold and Silver, and the rest in some other fashion. Every one of them was drest like a Stranger, whether 'twas Turk, Hungari­an, Moor, Indian, or wild People. Several of the Foot-men carried a bundle of these Garochons I have mentioned, and this lookt very well: Thus with all their Train they crost the Plaza Mayor, conducted by the six Alguazils, and the Trumpets sounding. They came before the King's Balcony, and made a profound Reverence to him, and desired leave of him to fight the Bulls, which he granted them, and wisht them Victory. Then the Trumpets every where began to sound again, and this is done, as 'twere, in defiance of the Bulls. All the People fall a shouting, and repeat Viva, viva los bravos Cavalleros: After this they separate, and salute the Ladies of their Acquaintance. All the Foot-men go out of the List, except two for each Knight, which are left to carry their Rejoues; they keep close to their Masters, and 'tis very seldom that they forsake them.

Several young Men enter into the place, and they come a great way off to fight on these days: These I now speak of are a foot, and not being nobly born, they use no Ceremonies with them. Whilst one Cavallero is fighting, the rest withdraw, but not out of the Bars; and they do not assault that Bull which another has undertaken to fight, unless he makes at them. The first to whom the Bull comes when they are altogether, is he that fights him. When he has wounded the Knight, they cry out, fileno es Empenno, that is to say, it is an Obligation upon such an one to revenge the Affront he has received from the Bull; and indeed Honour engages him, either on Horseback, or a foot, to attack the Bull, and give him a cut with his Sword, as I have said, either upon his Head or Throat, without striking him in any other part. Afterwards he may fight him [Page 189] as he will, and strike him where he can; but in doing this, ones Life is a thousand times in danger. When this blow is given, if the Knights are a foot, they may mount their Hor­ses.

When the King thought it was time to begin the Baiting, two Alguazils come under his Balcony, and he gives to Don John the Keys of the Stable where the Bulls are secur'd; for the King keeps the Key, and when it must be thrown, he delivers it into the hands of a Privado, or Chief Minister, as a Favour. Im­mediately the Trumpets sound, the Timbrels and the Drums, the Fifes and the Haut-boys, the Flutes and Bagpipes make a noise round the Place one after another; and the Alguazils, who are naturally great Cowards, go trembling to open the Doors where the Bulls are kept. There was a Man hid behind the door, who shut it as fast as he could, and then by a Ladder climb'd up to the top of the Stable; for 'tis usual with the Bull, in coming out, to look behind the door, and to begin his Ex­pedition by killing, if he can, the Man that stands there: after that he falls a running with all his might after the Alguazils, who spur their Horses to save themselves, for they are not allow'd to stand upon their defence, and their best play is to run away. Those Men which are on foot, throw at him Arrows and very sharp Darts, which are trim'd with Cutt-paper; these Darts stick in him in such a manner, that the pain causing him to stir much, makes the Iron enter deeper; besides, when he runs, the Paper makes a noise, and being on fire, vexes him extream­ly; his Breath looks like a thick mist about him, his Eyes and his Nostrils are like fire, he runs swifter than a Race-horse, and holds it much better; to speak truth, he strikes Terror. The Knight who is to fight him comes near him, takes a Rejon, holds it like a Ponyard, the Bull makes up to him, he declines his blow, and thrusts his Gorachon at him; the Bull so thrusts it back, that the Wood being weak, it breaks, immediately his Foot-men, who hold ten or twelve dozen, present him with another, which the Cavallero thrusts also into his Body; with this the Bull falls a bellowing, grows angry, runs, leaps, and woe be to them that stand in his way: And if at any time he is ready to run at a Man, a Cloak or a Hat is thrown at him, and this stops him; or else, one falls down on the Ground, and the Bull in running, passes over him. They have also great Figures made of Past-bords, with which they deceive him, and so gain time to escape. That which helps them further is, that the Bull constantly shuts his Eyes just before he pushes with his Horns, and they are so quick in that moment to avoid the [Page 190] blow; but yet this is not so certain, but that a great many perish.

I saw a Black, with a short Poniard, go directly to the Bull, when he was in the height of his Fury, and between his Horns thrust it into the very seam of his Skull, which is a place very soft and easie to be pierced, but withal, very small to hit. This was one of the boldest and most dextrous blows that can be imagin'd. The Bull fell down dead upon the spot; and pre­sently the Trumpets sounded, and several Spaniards ran with their Swords in their Hands, to cut in pieces the Beast that was no longer able to hurt them. When a Bull is kill'd, four Alguazils go out to fetch four Mules, which some Grooms, cloath'd in yellow, and Carnation-colour'd Satin, lead in. They are covered with Feathers and little silver Bells; they have sil­ken Traces, with which they tye the Bull, and so draw him away; upon which the Trumpets and People make a prodigi­ous noise: There were twenty baited the first day. There came out a furious one which very dangerously wounded Count Co­nismark in his Leg, and yet the force of the blow did not light upon him, but upon his Horse, whom it burst; he quickly got off him, and though he is no Spaniard, yet he would not be excus'd from any of the Laws, It would have drawn pity from any body to see one of the finest Horses in the World in such a condition; he ran violently about the place, striking fire with his feet, and kill'd a Man with a blow upon his Head and Breast: The great Rayle was open'd for him, and he went out. As for the Count, as soon as he was wounded, a very fine Spanish Lady, who believ'd that he fought for her sake, stood forward in her Balcony, and with her Handkerchief made seve­ral signs, in all likelihood to encourage him, but he did not seem to need being animated; and although he had lost abun­dance of Blood, and was forc'd to lean upon one of his Foot­men, who held him up, yet with great fierceness he advanc'd with his Sword in his Hand, made a shift to give a very great wound to the Bull on his Head; and then presently turning himself towards that side where this young Lady, for whom he fought, was, he kiss'd his Sword, and suffer'd himself to be carry'd away by his People half dead.

But you must not think that these sort of accidents interrupt the Feasts, 'tis said, that it will not end but by the King's Or­der; so that when any Knight is wounded, the others accom­pany him to the Bars, and immediately they return to fight. There was a Biscanier so bold, as to throw himself off his Horse upon the back of the Bull, held him by his Horns, and in spight of [Page 191] all the endeavours of the Animal to throw him off, yet the Bis­canier set upon him for above a quarter of an hour, and broke one of his Horns. If the Bulls defend themselves too long, and that the King would have others come out, (for fresh ones af­ford more delight, because every one has his particular manner of fighting) they turn loose some English Dogs; these are not so big as is generally seen there, but 'tis a breed something like those the Spaniards carry'd into the Indies when they con­quer'd them; they are small and low, but so strong, that when they once seize the Throat, you may sooner cut them in pieces than make them let go their hold. They are very fre­quently kill'd, the Bull takes them upon his Horns, and tosses them up in the Air like Foot-balls; sometimes they hamstring the Bull with certain Irons made cross-wise, which they put at the end of a long Pole, and this they call Jaretar al toro.

There was another Cavallero under the Empenno, because in fighting, his Hat fell off; he did not alight, but drew his Sword, and pushing his Horse upon the Bull which expected him, gave him a wound in the Neck; but as it was a slight one, so it serv'd only to enrage him the more: He tore up the Earth with his Feet, he roar'd, and he leapt about like a Stag. I cannot well describe to you this Combat, nor the Acclamations of every body, the claping of hands, nor the multitude of Hand­kerchiefs which are thrown up in the air, for an Expression of Admiration, some crying out, Victor, Victor, and others Ha Toro, Ha Toro, the more to excite the Bulls fury. Neither can I tell you my particular disturbance, and how my Heart fail'd me every time I saw these terrible Creatures ready to kill those brave Cavallero's: these things are equally impossible to me.

There was a Toledian, both young and handsome, which could not avoid being wounded by the horns of the Bull, who toss'd him up very high, he immediately died; there were two others mortally wounded, and four Horses either kill'd or desperately hurt, and yet every body said, it had not been a fine Baiting, because there was so little Blood shed; and to have been such, there should have been at the least, ten Men kill'd upon the Spot. It is hard to describe the Dexterity of the Cavalleros in fighting, and that of the Horses in avoiding the Bull. They'll turn sometimes an hour about him, and tho they be not a foot distant from him, yet he is not able to touch them, but when he does hit them, he wounds them cruelly. The King threw Fifteen Pistols to the Black that kill'd the Bull with his Ponyard, and he gave as much to one that had subdu'd another, and said, he would remember the Knights that had fought.

I observ'd a Castillian, who knew not how to defend himself, jump upon a Bull, as nimble as a bird. These Feasts are fine, great and magnificent; 'tis a noble Sight, and costs abundance; One cannot give a just Description of it, it must be seen to be well understood. But I assure you that all this did not please me; Do but think if a Man that is very dear to you, should be so rash to go and expose himself against a furious Beast, and that for your sake, (for generally that's the Motive) you see him brought back weltering in his Blood, and half dead, is it possible I say, for you or any one, to approve of such Actions and these Customs? Nay suppose one had no particular concern, would one desire to be present at such Sports, that cost the Lives of so many Men? For my part, I wonder that in a King­dom, where their King bears the name of Catholick, there should be such barbarous Diversions permitted. I am satisfied that 'tis very ancient, because they derive it from the Moors; but yet methinks this, as well as divers other Customs which they have from those Infidels, ought to be entirely abolisht.

Don Ferdinand observing me very much disturb'd and uneasie during the Baiting, and taking notice, that I was sometimes as pale as death, I was so much frighted to see some of those kill'd which fought, said to me in smiling, what would you have done Madam, if you had seen what had happen'd some years ago? A Cavallero of worth, passionately lov'd a young Woman, who was only a Jeweller's Daughter, but a perfect Beauty, and was to have a great Estate. This Cavallero having understood, that the most furious Bulls of the Mountains were taken, and thinking it would be a very glorious Action to vanquish them, resolved to Taurize as they call it, and for that end desired leave of his Mistress. She was so surpriz'd at the bare proposal only which he made, that she swooned away, and by all that Power which he had given her over himself, she charged him not to think of it, as he valued his Life. But in spite of this Charge he believed he could not give a more ample proof of his Love, and therefore privately, caus'd all things necessary to be got rea­dy in order thereunto. But as industrious as he was to hide his design from his Mistress, she was informed of it, and used all means to disswade him from it. In fine, the day of this Feast be­ing come, he conjur'd her to be there, and told her, that her very presence would be sufficient to make him conquer, and to acquire a Glory, which would render him yet more worthy of her. Your Love, says she, is more ambitious than 'tis kind, and mine is more kind than 'tis ambitious. Go where you think Glory calls you, you have a mind I should be there, you will [Page 193] fight before me; well, I do assure you, that I will be there, but yet perhaps my presence will afford you more matter of Trouble than Emulation. However he left her, and went to the Placa Mayor where there was already a mighty Assembly; but scarce had he begun to defend himself against the fierce Bull which assaulted him, when a Country Youth threw a dart at this Terrible Creature, which pierced him so deep, that it put him to a great deal of pain. He immediately left the Cavalero that was fighting him, and roaring ran directly after him that wounded him, this Youth thus frighted would have saved him­self, when his Cap which cover'd his head fell off, and then the loveliest and the longest hair which could be seen appeared up­on his shoulders, and this discovered it to be a Maid of about Fifteen or sixteen Years of Age. Fear had put her in such a Trembling, that she could neither run, nor any way avoid the Bull. He gave her a desperate push on the side, at the same instant her Lover knew that it was she, and was running to assist her. Good God! what a grief it was for him to see his dear Mistress in this sad Condition! Passion transported him, he no longer valued his Life, and grew more furious than the Bull, and performed things almost incredible. He was mor­tally wounded in divers places. On this Day, certainly the People, thought the Baiting fine, they carried these two unfor­tunate Lovers to her unhappy Father's House, they both desired to be in the same Chamber, and though they had but a little time to live, yet beg'd the Favour they might be married, ac­cordingly they were married, and since they could not live together, yet at least were they buried together, in one and the same Grave. The Story has mightily increased the Aver­sion I had already conceived against these sort of Feasts, and I told Don Ferdinand so, after I had thank'd him for his pains in relating it to me.

Hitherto I have said nothing to you concerning the Spanish Language, in which I am endeavouring to make some Pro­gress. It pleases me extreamly, it is expressive, noble, and grave, Love finds it commodious for its work, and can play the fool prettily enough in it. The Courtiers speak more concisely than others, they make use of such abstracted Com­parisons and Metaphors, that unless one is us'd to hear them, half their meaning is lost. I have learnt several Languages, or at least understand the first Rudiments of them, but yet in my mind, it is only our own which exceeds the Spanish.

I come just now from seeing Ten Gallies which are arriv'd, this is somewhat strange in a City that is Eighty Leagues from [Page 194] the Sea, but these are Land-Gallies; for if there be Sea-horses and Dogs, why not Land ones? They are shap'd like a Chariot, but four times longer, and have six Wheels, three on a side, and do not go much slower than a Chariot, the upper part is round, and is very like a Gally, they are covered with Canvas, and may contain forty Persons; there one sleeps and dresses victuals, indeed 'tis a Moving-house, they put eighteen or twenty Horses to draw it, the Machine is so long that it can­not be turn'd but in a field; they come usually from Gallicia and Manca, the country of the brave Don Quixot, they set out eight, ten or twelve in a Company, to be helpful to one ano­ther in case of need; For when one overturns, it makes a great havock, and the best that can happen, is a broken Arm or Leg, there must be above a hundred to raise it up again. In it there is carried all sorts of Provisions, for the Country through which they pass is so very barren, that on Mountains which are fourscore Leagues broad, the biggest tree one meets with is a little wild Tyme, there's in't neither Inn nor Inn-keep­ers, you sleep in the Gally, and 'tis a miserable Country for Travellers.

Monsieur Mollini the Popes Nuncio, consecrated the Patriarch of the Indies on Trinity Sunday, and the King was there. I saw him come in, he had a Black Suit and a gold coloured Silk Belt on, and little Pearls were set round the flowers, his hat was so broad which they never cock here, that the Brims laid upon his shoulders, and lookt ill. I observed, that during the Ceremony he eat of something which was held to him in a Pa­per, they told me it was either Leeks or Shallots, of which he eats very often. I was too far off, to see him well, he did not return to Buenretiro, because of Corpus Christi-day, at which Ceremony he would assist. In coming out of the Church, I knew a French Gentleman whose Name is Juncas, he is of Bur­deaux, where I saw him, I ask'd him how long he had been here: he told me but a little while, and that his first Business had been to have seen me, had he not been engag'd at Bayon, not to lose a minute's time, in the search of a very wicked Fel­low, which was supposed to be hid at Madrid; That it was not the Curiosity to see the Patriarch of the Indies consecrated, which drew him to the Hieronimites, (otherwise the Daugh­ters of the Conception) but that having desired to speak with one of the Nuns, he was told, that he could not see her till the King was gone. He added, that this was one of the handso­mest Women in the World, and hath been the cause of a great unhappiness in the Family of Monsieur De Lande. I remember [Page 195] to have seen her as I have gone by, and intreated him to tell me the matter. It is, says he, too long and melancholy a Mis­chance to relate presently; but if you will see the young Nun I speak of, I am persuaded she'll not be unpleasant to you. I willingly accepted his Offer, because I have so often been told, that they have so much more wit in Monasteries, then elsewhere in the world. We went into a Parlour, which had three such ter­rible Iron-doors with spikes, as made me wonder. How is this, said I? It has been told me, that the Nuns in this Coun­try are very amorous, but I cannot be persuaded, that Love is bold enough to venture over these long Spikes, and through these little holes, where one must undoubtedly perish. You are deceived, Madam, cri'd Juncas, at the Appearances of things; if the Lady which is coming, can spare me so much time, I'll pre­sently tell you, what I learnt of a friend of mine a Spaniard, the first Journey I made hither. But at the very instant, Donna Isidora came into the Parlour. I found her much handsomer, than I had fancy'd her in my own Mind to be. Monsieur De Juncas told her, that I was a French Lady which had a great mind to be acquainted with her, upon his report of her Merits. She thankt me in a very modest manner, and afterwards told us, that it was very true, that the Wretch after whom Enqui­ry was made, had been lately at Madrid; but that she was certain he was not now there, and that he had even had the Im­pudence to write to her by the hands of a Man where he lodg'd; that the Letter was brought to her after his Departure, and that she would not receive it. It seems to me, said I, inter­rupting of her, that he could not be taken, supposing he were yet here. Sometimes, says Donna Isidora, Permission is ob­tain'd from the King. There are certain Crimes for which there is no Sanctuary, and that is one of them. She fell a weeping, notwithstanding all her endeavours to hinder her tears, and added, that thanks be to Heaven, she could not re­proach her self with any thing in the late Business, but yet she could not forbear grieving extreamly that she had been the cause of it. We talk'd together a good while longer, and I was as much charm'd with her Wit as with her Beauty. Af­terwards I withdrew. I am absolutly yours, most dear Cousin, be throughly persuaded of it

From Madrid this 29 of May, 1679.

LETTER XI.

ONE must love you as mightily as I do Dear Cousin to re­solve to write to you in a Season when the Weather is so excessive hot: Whatever has been told me, and whatever I could imagine of it, is nothing in comparison to what I now feel. To defend my self from the heat, I leave open all my Windows all night long, without fearing the Gallick Winds which criple a body. I sleep bare-head, I put my Hands and Feet in Snow, enough to kill one; but I think 'tis much at one to dye, as to be smother'd with heat, as they are here. 'Tis Mid-night before one feels the least breath of Air from the Western Briezes.

In going to take the Air, one is sufficiently puzled; for if the Glasses are open, one's chok'd with the Dust, of which the Streets are so full that one can hardly see, and although the Windows of the Houses are shut, the Dust finds a way through and spoils all Houshold Goods; so that what with the ugly smells in the Winter, and the dust in the Summer, all things of Silver, and every thing else is so tarnish'd and spoyl'd, that little can be kept handsom any considerable time: Notwith­standing all care at present, ones face will be cover'd with sweat and dust, like those Wrestlers which are represented to us in a Ring.

I should now tell you that I have seen the Ceremony on Cor­pus Christi-day, which is very solemnly kept here: There's a general Procession of all the Parishes and Monasteries, which are very numerous; the Streets thrô which the Holy Sacrament is to pass, are hung with the richest Tapistry in the World; for I do not only speak of that which belongs to the Crown which is there, but also of that which belongs to a thousand particu­lar Persons which have most admirable Tapistry. All the Bal­conies are then without their Lattices adorn'd with Carpets, rich Cushions, and Canopies: they hang Ticking cross the Streets to hinder the Sun from being troublesom, and they throw water upon it, to make the Air cooler: All the Streets are spread with Sand, well water'd, and fill'd with so great a quantity of Flowers, that one can hardly tread upon any thing else. The Repositories are extraordinary large, and adorn'd with the greatest splendor.

No Women go in the Procession: the King was there in a black Lute-string Taffety Suit, a Sholder-belt of blue Silk edg'd with white; his Sleeves were of white Taffety, embroider'd with Silk and Bugles; they were very long and open before: he had little Sleeves hanging down to his Waste, his Cloak was wrapt about his Arm, and he had on his Collar of Gold and precious Stones, at which there hung a little sheep in Diamonds: He had also Diamond Buckles at his Shooes and Garters, and a great Hat-band of the same, which shin'd like the Sun; he had like­wise a knot which button'd up his Hatt, and at the bottom of that a Pearl which they call the Pereagrine, it is as big as the Russet Pear, and of the same shape; it is pretended to be the finest in Europe, and that both its colour and kind is in perfecti­on. The whole Court without exception, follow'd the Holy Sacrament, the Councils walk'd after it without any Order or Precedency, as they happen'd to be, holding white Wax Candles in their hands; the King had one, and went foremost, next the Tabernacle where the Sacrament was. It is certainly one of the finest Ceremonies that can be seen. I observ'd that all the Gentlemen of the Bed-chamber had a great gold Key by their sides, it opens the King's Chamber, into which they can go when they will; it is as big as a Cellar-door Key: I there saw several Knights of Malta, who wore every one a Cross of Malta, made of Holland, and embroider'd upon their Cloaks; it was near two a Clock, and the Procession was not yet gone in; when it past by the Palace, they fir'd several Rockets, and other Inventions.

The King went to meet the Procession at St. Mary's, which is a Church near the Palace. Upon this day all the Ladies be­gin to wear their Summer Garments, they make their Balco­nies very fine, in which they have either several Baskets of Flowers, or Bottles fill'd with sweet Water, which they throw about whilst the Procession passes by; Commonly the three Com­panies which guard the King, are new cloath'd. As soon as the Holy Sacrament is gone back to the Church, every body goes home to eat, that they may be at the Autos, which are certain kinds of Tragedies, upon Religious Subjects, and are od­ly enough contriv'd and manag'd: They are acted either in the Court or Street of each President of a Council, to whom it is due. The King goes thither, and all the Persons of Quality re­ceive Tickets over Night to go there; so that we were invited, and I was amaz'd to see them light up abundance of Flamboys, whilst the Sun beat full upon the Comedians Heads, and melted the Wax like Butter; they acted the most impertinent piece [Page 198] that ever I saw in my days. This is the Subject of it:

The Knights of St. James are assembled, and our Lord comes and desires them to receive him into their Order; there are divers of them that are very willing to it, but the Seniors re­present to the others, the wrong they should do themselves, if they should admit into their Society, a Person of ignoble Birth, that St. Joseph his Father was a poor Carpenter, and that the Holy Virgin wrought at her Needle: Our Lord with great impatience expects their Resolution, at last they determine with some unwillingness, to refuse him; but at the same time propose an expedient, which is, to institute on purpose for him, The Order de Christo, and with this every body is satisfied. This is the Order that is in Portugal, but yet these things are not done with a wicked design; no, they had rather dye than in the least to fail of the respect due to Religion. These Autos last for a Month; I am so weary of going to them, that I ex­cuse my self as oft as I can: They use Sweetmeats and Water cool'd in Ice very much, and they have need of them, for the heat almost kill's one, and the dust choaks a body: I was ravish'd with Joy to meet Don Augustin Pacheco, and his Wife (of whom I have formerly told you) at the President d' Hazienda's House; they come thither, because they are related to the Pre­sident: We were placed near one another, and when the Cere­mony was over, we went to take the Air in the Prado, after the French Mode, that is Men and Women together in the same Coach. Don Frederick de Cardona was one; our Curtains were close drawn whilst there was a great many folks, because of our beautiful and young Spanish Women; but as we tarry'd later than others, the Nuncio, and Frederick Cornaro the Venetian Am­bassador, caus'd their Coaches to drive up to ours, and talk't with us; when all on a sudden we saw a great Illumination all along the Walk, and at the same time appear'd sixty Cardinals upon Mules, in their Habits and red Caps; after them follow'd the Pope, he was carry'd upon a certain Machine all cover'd with a foot Carpet; he sat under a Canopy in a great Chair, and St. Peter's Keys laid upon a Cushion, with a Vessel full of holy Wa­ter of Orange-flowers, with which he sprinkled every body. The show march'd on gravely; and when they were come to the end of the Prado, the Cardinals began to play a thou­sand cunning tricks to make his Holiness merry; some threw their Hats upon the Trees, and standing directly under, they fell upon their Heads again; and others stood upright upon the Saddles on their Mules, and made 'em run as fast as they could. There was a vast number of People follow'd them; we ask'd [Page 199] the Pope's Nuncio what this meant, and he assur'd us he under­stood nothing of it; and that he did not like this sort of Mirth. He sent to enquire from whence the Holy Colledge came in that manner; and we understood it was the Bakers Holy-day, and that every year they us'd to make this fine shew. The Nuncio had a great mind to have disturb'd them with a Volly of Cudgels, and had already commanded his Attendants to begin the Fray; but we interceded in the behalf of these poor People, who had no other intention than to celebrate the Festival of their Saint. In the mean time, some that had over-heard the Orders which were given, and were Disturbers of the publick Peace, gave Information thereof to the Pope and Cardinals; this was enough to put all in confusion, every one escap'd as well as he could, and their fear made our Pleasure short liv'd. In France such Mascarades would not be suffer'd, but perhaps there are many things innocent in one Country, which would not be so in another.

My Kinswoman knowing how very civily I had been receiv'd by Don Augustin Pacheco, invited him to Supper at her House; I desir'd him to remember his promise of giving me a Relation of what he knew of the Indies, immediately I'll tell you, says he, concerning those they call the West-Indies, in which a part of America is compris'd.

In the Reign of Ferdinand King of Castile and Arrogon, Chri­stopher Columbus a Genoway, discover'd this part of the World in the Year 1492. As the Spaniards were the first that found this fortunate Country, unknown to the Europeans, so King Ferdinand and Queen Isabel, had the Propriety of it by a Bull from Pope Alexander VI. He establish'd them and their Suc­cessors, perpetual Vicars of the Holy See, over this vast Coun­try; so that the Kings of Spain are both Spiritual and Temporal Lords, and nominate Bishops and other Ecclesiasticks, and re­ceive Tenths from them. Their power there, is of a larger ex­tent than in Spain, for you must know that America alone is one of the four Parts of the World, and that we possess more Land there, than all other Nations together besides. The Coun­cil of the Indies which is establish't at Madrid, is one of the most considerable of the Kingdom, and there being so great a necessity of holding a very frequent Correspondence between Spain and the Indies, to send Orders to maintain the Court Authority, they were oblig'd to establish beside, a particular Chamber, which is compos'd of the eldest Counsellors of the Council of the Indies, and they are to take Cognizance of all things concerning the Revenues, and cause Expeditions by the Secretaries of the Council.

Besides this Chamber at Madrid, there's another at Siville, call'd the House of Contrataction, it is compos'd of several Counsellors both of the Robe and the Sword, with other ne­cessary Officers. Those of the Sword, take Cognizance of things which concern the Fleet and the Galeons. The other Counsellors take Care of matters of Justice. Appeals from this Tribunal are made to the Council of the Indies at Madrid. There are Registers kept in the House of Contrataction at Se­vile, in which are writ all the Merchandizes that are sent to the Indies, and all that come from thence, that so the King may not be cheated of his Customs; but this signifies little, the Merchants are so cunning, and those who keep the Accounts are so easily drawn to share with them, that the King is not a whit the better for them, and the Duty to him, which is only the fifth Part, is so ill paid, that he does not receive the fourth Part of what is due to him.

It is the Council of Madrid which proposes Subjects to the King to fill up the vacant Vice-Royalties of New-Spain and Peru, they are granted for five Years, and so are all other Places, of which the most considerable, are these following, viz. The Governour and Captain General, and President of the Royal Chancellary of St. Domingo in the Spanish Islands, the Gover­nour and Captain General of the City of St. Christopher of the Havana, the Governour and Captain of War, of the City of St. James of Cuba, the Governour and Captain General of the City of St. John of Puerto Rigo, the Governour and Captain General of the City of St. Augustine, in the Province of Flori­da, the Governour of the City of Ascention of the Island of Marguretta, the Governour and Captain General of the City of Cumana, Capital of New-Andalousia, the Vice-Roy, Gover­nour and Captain General of New Spain, A President of the Royal Audience, who resides in the City of Mexico, the Go­vernour and Captain General of the City of Merida, Capital of the Province of Yucatan, the President and Governour of the Royal Audience and Chancellery, which resides in the City of Gaudalaxara, captital of the Kingdom of Galatia; the Go­vernour and Captain General of the City of Guadiana, capital of the Kingdom of New Biscay; the Governour Captain Gene­ral and President of the Chancellery which resides in the City of Santiago, of the Province of Guatemela; the Goverour of the Province of Locnusco in the Strait of Guatemala; the Go­vernour and Captain General of the City of Cornagua, of the Province of Honduras,; the Governour of the City of St. James of Lyon, capital of the Province of Nicaragua; the Governour [Page 201] and Captain General of the City of Cartagena capital of the Province of Costa Riga; the Governour, Captain General and President of the Royal Chancellery, which resides in the City of Manila, in the Phillipine Islands; the Governour and Lieu­tenants of the Forttesses De Ternate, and Governour and Ge­neral of the Militia of the same Countrey; the Vice Roy, Go­vernour, Captain General and President of the Audit of the City of Lima, More, eight Counsellers, four Alcades, two Ac­cusators, a Protector of the Indies, four Reporters, three Porters and a Chaplin in the same City. A Governour of Chucuito, one of Zico, one of Ica, one of Delos Collagos, one of Guamanga, one of Santigo de Misaflores de Zara, one of St. Marco, one of A­requipo, one of Truxillo; a Vice Roy of Castra; a Vice Roy of Michel y puerto de Blata; a Master of the Camp of the Strait of Puerto del Callao; the President De la Plata hath under him six Counsellors, an Accusator, two Reporters and two Porters; the Governour of the Province of Tucumanan; the Governour of the Province of St Croix; the Governour and Captain Ge­neral of the Province of De la Plata; the Governour of the Province of Paraguay; the Governour of the Cittadel of the Imperial City De la Plata de Potosy; the Governour of St. Philip of Autrich, and of the Gold Mines; the Governour of the City of Paix; the chief Governour of the Mines of Potosy, the Governour, Captain General and President of the City of St. Foy; the Governour and Captain General of the Province of Castenaga; has under him a Lieutenant, a Captain and a Marechal de Campe; the Governour and Lieutenant of the Castle St. Matthias; the Governour and Captain General of the Province of St. Martha; the Governour of the Cittadel of St. Martha; the Governour of the Province Aentoja; the Governour of the Province of Popayan; the Governour De los Musos y Colinos; the Governour of the Province of Merida; the Governour of the City of Tunja; the Gover­nour of the City of Tona Emalbague, and the People of the burning Land; the Governour of Quixos Zomoco Ecanela; the Governour of the City of Jane; the Governour of the City of Santigo de Quagaquil; the Governour of the City of Loja Zonnora, and of the Mines of Comura; the President, Go­vernour and Captain General of the City of Ponama; the Go­vernour of Veragua, has under him a Captain General, a Lieu­tenant General, a Captain of the Companies of the Infantry, and a Captain of the Artillery, the Governour and Captain of the Castle of St. Philips, in the City of Puerto velo; the chief Governour of Puerto velo, and the Governour and Captain Ge­neral of the Province of St. Martha of the River of Hacha, [Page 202] and the Governour of the great Caxamarca.

I do not hear mention the Places of Judicature, nor the Be­nefices, which are very numerous; But it must be observ'd, that all the Employments I have spoken of, are given either from three to three Years, or from five to five Years, that so one Man alone may not grow rich, whilst there are so many others that stand in need to partake of the King's Kindness.

In those Places where there is no Vice Roy, he that is Pre­sident, is also Governour, and when a Vice Roy dies, the Pre­sident of the Vice Royalty for the time being, takes the Govern­ment upon him, till another Vice Roy is sent from Spain. It is his Catholick Majesty which gives those great Posts and the most considerable Governments. The Vice Roys fill up the les­ser, and these Vice Roys make a shift very easily in five Years time to bring home two Millions of Crowns all charges paid, the Governours of the Principal Places, get in the same Com­pass of time about five or six hundred thousand Crowns; none goes thither, but what grows rich, and this is so certain, that even the Fryers which are sent thither to preach the Faith, and convert the Indians, make such a profitable Mission, that they bring home every one of them, thirty or forty thousand Crowns. The King disposes of divers Pensions paid by the Vil­lages of the Indies. And from these they draw from two to six thousand Crowns per Annum. And this is another way the King has to gratifie his Subjects.

The Philippine Islands which lie near the Kingdom of China, depend upon the King of Spain, the Trade there is in Silk: these Places cost him more to keep, then they bring him in.

The Castillians had their Reasons why they would not let a­ny sort of Manufactures be set up in the Indies, nor any Stuffs made there, nor any of those things else, which are indispen­sibly necessary. This Policy cause every thing to go from Eu­rope, and make the Indians, who passionately love all the Com­modities and Ornaments which come from thence freely to sa­crifice their Silver to their Satisfaction: by this means, they are put out of a Capacity to grow rich, because they are forc'd at very dear rates to buy the least Trifle they want, and with which they amuse them.

The Flota consists of divers Vessels loden with rich Merchan­dizes which are sent to the Indies, and there are other great Ships of War which are call'd Galleons, which the King sends to convoy them. These Men of War ought not to carry any Merchants Goods, but the Lucre of Gain tempts them against the express Prohibition of the King, and sometimes they are so [Page 203] full laden, that if they should happen to be attack'd, they could not defend themselves. When these Vessels are ready to sail, the Dispatch which the Merchants obtain from the Council of the Indies at Madrid for leave to send them, cost for each of them, from three to six thousand Crowns, according to the bigness of the Vessel. It is easie to imagine, that since they give so much, they are sure of gaining a great deal more.

The Galleons go no further then Porto Velo, whither they bring all the Silver of Peru, the Flota leaves them at this Place, and continue their Voyage to New Spain. The Galleons sail from Sanlucar to Cartagene in six Weeks or two Months at most, they tarry there a little while, and in five or six Days they come back to Portovelo; it is a Town scituated on the Coast of America, the Air there is very unwholsom, and the Weather excessive hot. On the other side of the Isthmus some ten Leagues distance only, is the City of Panama, whether is brought from Peru a vast Quantity of Silver in Bars or Wedges, and divers Merchandizes which are convey'd by Land-carriage to Porto velo, where the Galleons are, and where there is kept one of the greatest Fairs in the World, for in less then forty or fifty Days there is sold of all sorts of European Goods to the value at least of twenty Millions of Crowns ready Money. Af­ter the Fair is done, the Galleons return to Cartagena, at which place there's a considerable Trade for Indian Goods, and those of the Kingdom of St. Foy, as well as for those, from Mori­genta: After this, they go to the Havana to take in necessary Provisions for this Voyage, and from thence they are common­ly two Months in Sailing to Cadiz; But as to the Flotta, it stops at Porto Rico to refresh, and arrives at Vera Crux in five Weeks, there they unload their Merchandizes, which is after­wards carry'd by Land fourscore Leagues beyond to the great City of Mexico, the Sale of them is quickly over, and the Flo­ta parts afterwards to go to the Havana; but this must be past only in the Month of April or September, because of the North Winds. The Galleons are commonly Nine Months in their Voyage to Peru, and the Flota is thirteen or fourteen Months, some particular Persons go thither also at their own Charge, after they have obtained Leave from the King and have Re­gistered themselves at the Contrataction at Sevile, these go to the Coasts of St. Domingo, Honduras, Caracas, and Buenos Ayres.

The Money which comes directly from the King from the In­dies, must be brought in one Galleon, this Silver is deliver'd to one of the Masters of the Mint, who pays to the King every Voyage he makes, six thousand Crowns, and he keeps one per [Page 204] Cent. Of all the Silver that goes through his Hands, which ari­ses high. As to the Silver which belongs to particular Persons, that is brought in what Vessels they will choose; and it is the Captain that is responsible for it.

There's a certain Duty which is Call'd Avarie, and it is ta­ken for all Goods Registred, and for all the Silver which is brought from the Indies. This Duty is so considerable, that it suffices to fit out the Galleons and the Flota for their Voyage, although the Charge amounts to nine Millions of Crowns; but that of the Flota is not so great.

He that the King chooses to be General of the Galleons, ad­vances to him, fourscore or a hundred thousand Crowns which is repaid him in the Indies with great Interest. Every other Captain does also advance Money to the King proportionable to the bigness of the Vessel they command. There goes more­over with the Galleons a Patacha, which leaves them in the Gulph Delas Yequas, she goes to the Isles of Margueritta to fish for Pearles, of which they pay to the King a fifth part, that is of all the Pearl they take, and afterwards she comes to Cartegena.

Within these few Years, there is discovered Seventy Leagues from Lima, some Mines which yield a vast Revenue, those of Peru, and all the others in the West Indies pay the King the fifth part, as well of the Gold, as the Silver and Emeraulds. There is at Potosi greater plenty of Mines than any where else, the Silver they get there is brought to Port D' Ariga, and from thence, it is sent to Callao. It is one of the Ports of Lima, whether the Galleons come to fetch it. The Kingdom of Peru yields every Year in Gold and Silver to the Value of eleven Mil­lions of Crowns. From New Spain is brought five Millions of Crowns, besides Marchandizes, which are commonly, Emer­aulds, Gold, Silver, Cochenil, Tobacco, Wool of Vigogne, Campecha Wood and Hydes.

It was a long while before they would suffer in New Spain any Workmen that wrought in Silk or Wool; there are some now, and this may do some hurt to the Trade of Stuffs which are sent from Europe, they are not allow'd to plant there any Olive Trees or Vines, that so the Oyl and Wine which is car­ried thither may sell the better. The King has the Power in the Indies as well as Spain, to sell the Bull of the Crusada, which is a Licence to eat Flesh every Saturday, and to enjoy the Benefit of Indulgences.

The Indian Idolaters are not subject to the Inquisition in the Indies; that it is establish'd only against Hereticks and Jews. [Page 205] No Strangers are suffered to go to the Indies, but if at any time some happen to go, there must be a special Permission obtain'd which is very rarely granted.

How is it possible for me, continued Don Augustine, to ex­press to you the Beautifulness of the City of Mexico, the Church­es, the Palaces, the Publick Places, the Riches, the Profusion, the Magnificence and the Pleasures, a City that is so happily scituated, that in all Seasons it enjoys a continual Spring, and where the Heats are not at all excessive, where they feel not the Severity of Winter. the Country is no less charming, the Flowers and the Fruits at all times equally loading the Trees. There you gather more than one Crop in a Year; the Lakes and Ponds are full of Fish, the Grounds are well stockt with Cattel, the Forests and Woods afford excellent Fowl and wild Beasts, the Earth seems to open her Bowels on purpose to give up the Gold she encloses, there are Mines or Rocks of precious Stones discover'd, and Pearl are there taken. Oh! said I, let us all go dwell in that Country. This Description Charms, but as 'tis a long Voyage, it may be convenient, if you please, Madam, said I, to Donna Tereza in smiling, to get our Supper before we go; I immediately took her by the hand, and we came into a Parlour, where I had provided the best Musicians, which are bad enough, and which in my Opi­nion, have nothing to recommend them but their dearness. My Cook made us some Ragous afte the French way, which Donna Theresa found so excellent, that she desir'd I would let her have the Receipt how to do them. Don Augustin intreated me also, to let him have some of my Larding-Pins, of which really one may look all over Spain, and not find so much as one. We tarry'd very late together, for in this Season they set up till four or five a Clock in the Morning because of the heats, and that the best time is in the Night.

There are certain days in the year, that every body goes out to take the Air upon the Bridges which cross the River Mansanarez; but at present all Coaches are laid up, the Gravel and some little Brooks help to make it very cool and pleasant. The Horses endure a great deal in these Walks, for nothing can be more prejudicial to their Feet than the Flints upon which they continually tread. In certain places of this River they make a stand, and there remain till two or three a Clock in the Morning; there is very often a thousand Coaches: Some particular People bring Victuals to eat there, and others sing and play upon several Instruments; all this is very pleasant in a fine Night: There are some Persons which wash or bath [Page 206] themselves, but indeed 'tis after an ugly manner. The Danish Ambassador's Lady did it lately; her People go a little before her, and dig a great hole in the Gravel, which presently fills it self with Water, into which the Lady comes and thrusts her self; you may imagine how pleasant such a Bath is, and yet this is the only way that can be made use of in this River.

You will not be sorry, perhaps, to know, that in making out ones Nobility here, it must be prov'd, that one is descended both by Father and Mother from Vijos Christianos, that is, from Ancient Christians. The blemish which they ought to fear is, their being allay'd to any Jewish or Moorish Family.

As the People of Biscay and Navarre were defended from the Invasion of the Barbarians by the height and Ruggedness of their Mountains, so they esteem themselves all Cavalleros, even to the meanest Water-bearer; for in Spain, the Children some­times take their Mothers Name, if she's of a better Family than the Father. It is certain, that there are few Families en­tire, and whose Name and Nobility has not been carry'd by an only Daughter and mixt with another Family: That of Velasco is not of this number, for they reckon up ten Connestables of Castilo successively from Father to Son. Here's one thing very singular, and that which is not allow'd of in any other Coun­try; and that is, That Foundlings, or Children found by chance are reckon'd Noble, and bear the Title of Hidalgos, and enjoy all the Priviledges annext to the Nobility; but to this end, they must prove, that they were Foundlings, and were main­tain'd and bred in the Hospital where such Children are kept.

There are in Spain some great Families which hold almost all their Estates by the Title of Mayorargo; and when it happens that all of the Name are dead, and that the next akin is a Male, though he be a natural Son, yet he shall Inherit; and for want of such, the eldest Domestick shall take the Name and the Arms of his Master, and inherit his Estate: And this is one reason why the younger Brothers of other Houses, as Noble and Illu­strious, do not scorn to be Servants to these, and their hopes are pretty well grounded; for it often happens that Families are extinct, because the Spanish Women have fewer Children than the Women of other Countries.

There lately happen'd a very great misfortune to a young Woman of Quality called Donna Clora; she could not preserve her Heart against the Charms of Count de Castrillo, a Man of the Court, very witty and handsom; the Cavallero had the se­cret to please her without designing it; he was ignorant of the Inclinations she had for him, and so did not improve his Happi­ness. [Page 207] And although the Father of this amiable Creature was absent, yet she did not enjoy the more Liberty, because her Brother, whose Name was Don Henriques, to whose care her Father had recommended her, continually watcht over her Actions and Behaviour; she durst not speak to him she lov'd, and this was a double Martyrdom, not to be able to make her Complaints, and to divide her Grief with him that caus'd it: But at last she resolv'd to write to him, and to find out some way that the Letter should come to his hands; but as this was a business of the highest consequence to her, so she was at a stand about the choice of a Confident; and here she stopt for some time, till at last she bethought her self of a Friend of hers, who had always testify'd abundance of kindness for her, and so with­out further consideration, she writ a very moving Letter to the Count de Castrillo, and was going to her Friend to intreat him to get it deliver'd to this Cavallero, when she saw him pass close by her Chair; this sight of him encreas'd her desires to let him know her mind, and immediately taking this opportunity for her self, threw the Letter she had in her hand to him, at the same time feigning, that this was a Letter which he had gi­ven to her as he went by; Know my Lord, says he, aloud with an angry look, That it is not to me you ought to address your self upon such a design as yours. Here, take the Letter, which I will not so much as open. The Count had too much Wit not to ap­prehend presently the favourable intention of this fair one. You need not complain, Madam, says he to her, that I have not made use of your Advice; he quickly withdrew to read a Let­ter which must needs give him abundance of Pleasure: by this means he was inform'd of Donna Clora's Intentions, and what he must do to see her. He omitted nothing, he became de­sparately in Love, and thought himself, as he had reason, one of the happiest Cavalleros of Spain. They impatiently expected the return of her Father, that they might propose the Marriage to him, which in all likelyhood must have been very acceptable to him.

But notwithstanding all the Precautions that these young Lo­vers took both certainly to fix and continue a Conversation, which was the Joy of their Life; yet the suspicious and watch­ful Henriques discover'd their Intreague. He believed her Cri­minal, and in the excess of his Rage, without signifying or ma­king the least shew, he one Night went into the Chamber of the unfortunate Dona Clora, and as she was in a deep sleep, he strangl'd her in the most barbarous manner imaginable.

Nevertheless, though it was known, that he was the Author of so wicked an Action, yet he was not prosecuted, for he had too much Credit and Interest; and besides, this poor Gentle­woman had no kindred but what was his, and they were un­willing to encrease the Misfortunes of their Family, which were already but too great.

After this wicked Fact, Henriques feign'd a great fit of Devo­tion; he appear'd no more in Publick, and had Mass said at his House, and saw very few People; for he was very apprehensive that Count Castrillo (who had not dissembl'd his Grief, but had let it visibly appear) would at last be reveng'd for his Mistress, for indeed he most carefully sought all Opportunities. At length, after having attempted all imaginable ways, he found out one which succeeded.

He disguis'd himself like an Aguador, that is, a Water-Bearer, these sort of People load an Ass with several great Pitchers, and so carry them about the City; they wear thick coarse Cloth, their Legs are naked, and their Shooes are either cut or slasht, or else they have Soals made fast with Strings. Our Lover thus disguis'd waited all day long leaning upon the side of a Spring­well, whose waters he increas'd by his Tears; for this Well was just against the House where he had so often seen his dear and fair Clara, and there it was also, where the inhumane Henriques dwelt. As the Count kept his Eyes continually upon this House, he perceiv'd one of the Casements half open, and at the same time his Enemy to draw near it, he had a Looking-Glass in his Hand, in which he was looking himself. Immediately the cun­ning Aquator threw some Cherry-stones at him, in a jesting way, and some of them having hit his Face, Don Henriques af­fronted at the Insolence of a Man, which appear'd to him to be only a poor Aguador, and transported with the first motions of his Anger, came down alone to chastize him: But he was hard­ly in the Street, when the Count discover'd himself, and draw­ing his Sword, which for his purpose he kept hid, cry'd out, Traytor that thou art, think of defending thy Life. The surprize and the fright had so amaz'd Don Henriques, that he was only able to ask quarter; but he could not obtain it from this enra­ged Lover, who came to revenge the Death of his Mistress up­on him that had so cruelly murder'd her. This Count would have found it very hard to have escap'd, upon his doing such an Action just at the door of a Man of note, and that had abun­dance of Servants; but in that very moment that all Don Hen­riques People were sallying out upon the Count, happily for him, the Duke Duzeda came by with three of his Friends, they [Page 209] immediately came out of their Coach, and rescued him so sea­sonably, that he made his Escape, and we do not yet hear where he is; I am concern'd for him, because I know him, and that he is a very honest Man.

It is very common in this Country, to assassinate one for se­veral Causes, and Custom even authorizes the Fact, for every angry Difference; for example, If one give an other a Box o'th' Ear, or strikes him on the Face with his Hat, his Handkerchief, or his Glove, or has wrong'd him, in calling him Drunkard, or lets drop any words that reflect on the Virtue of his Wife, these things I say must be no otherwise reveng'd than by Assassina­tion; but they give this Reason, that after such Affronts, it would not be just for a Man to venture his Life in single Com­bate upon equal terms, where the Offended might perish by the hand of the Aggressor. They'll keep a Revenge twenty Years together if they cannot sooner meet with a fit Occasion to exe­cute it: and if they happen to die before they have got Satis­faction, they leave their Children Inheritors of their Resent­ments as well as of their Estates, and the best way for a Man that hath given any Affront to another, is for ever to forsake his Country. I was lately told of a considerable Man, that after he had liv'd twenty Years in the Indies, to avoid an ill turn from another to whom he had given some Offence, and having un­derstood that not only he but his Son was dead, believ'd him­self secure. He returns to Madrid, after he had taken care to change his Name that he might not be known; but all this was not able to save him, for the Grandson of him that thought himself abus'd, though he was but twelve Years old, caus'd this Person to be murder'd quickly after his return.

The Men that committed these horrid Actions are commonly hir'd from Valentia; It is a City in Spain, whose People are wicked to excess; there's not any Crime which they will not de­liberately commit for Money; they wear Stillettos, and Fire Arms which go off without any noise. There are two sorts of these Stillettos, one about the length of a short Ponyard, but not thicker than a thick needle, and made of excellent Steel, square and sharp edg'd. This Instrument wounds mortally for entring very deep, and making no bigger an Orifice than an needle; no Blood comes out, nay hardly can one perceive the place where it entred, and so being impossible to dress it, they almost constantly die. The other sort is longer, and no thicker than the little finger, but so hard and strong that I have seen one of them at one blow struck throw a thick Walnut-Tree Table. These sort of Arms are forbidden to be carry'd in Spain, as [Page 210] Bayonnets are in France; neither is it lawful to carry those Poc­ket-Pistols which fire without noise; but yet notwithstanding the Prohibition, several Persons make use of them.

I have been told, that a Person of Quality thinking he had a just cause to destroy one of his Enemies, went to a Bandolero of Valentia, and gave him a Sum of Money to murder him, but afterwards he was reconciled to his Enemy; and being willing to use a good Conscience, he made it his first business to acquaint the Bandolero with what had past, that so he might have a care not to kill this Man. The Bandolero seeing his Service needless, offer'd to return the Money, but he that gave it, entreated him to keep it; Well, says he, I am a Man of Honour, I shall keep your Money, and I will kill your Man. The other earnestly begg'd him to do nothing, seeing they were now friends. Look you, says he to him, all that I can do, is to give you your choice, whe­ther it shall be you or him, for to gain your Money honestly, there's a necessity I must kill one of you. And notwithstanding all the Entreaties of this Person, he persisted in his design, and execu­ted it. It had been an easie matter to have seiz'd him, but there was too much danger in't; for those Bandoleros are so nu­merous and united, that if any one of them should be executed, the Death of him is certainly and quickly reveng'd. These Wretches are never without a List of their wicked Actions they have committed, and count it an honour to them; and when any one would set them on work, they shew that, and ask, whether they desire them quickly dispatch'd, or to give them a languishing Wound. These are the most pernicious People in the Universe. Indeed if I should tell you all the Tragical Stories which I hear every day, you would grant that this Country is the very Theatre of the most horrid Scenes in the World. Love frequently furnishes the matter, either for its Satisfaction or Re­venge. There is nothing that a Spaniard will not undertake, nor nothing that is above either his Courage or Compassion.

'Tis said, that Jealousie is their prevailing Passion, yet they do not pretend it so much out of Love, as Resentment and Pride; for they cannot bear to see another prefer'd before them, and every thing which contributes to affront them, makes them desparate; let these things be how they will, one thing is cer­tainly true, that it is a most furious and barbarous Nation in this Affair. The Women keep not company with Men; but yet they very well understand how to write and appoint Meetings when they have a mind; notwithstanding the danger is great both for themselves, the Lover and the Messenger; but in spite of all that, by their Wit and their Money, they make a shift to deceive the most cunning Argus.

It is unaccountable that Men who put every thing in practice to satisfie their Revengeful Minds, and who are guilty of such abominable Actions, should even be scrupulously Religious, at the same time they are going to stab their Enemy. And that they may not fail in their Enterprize, they must forsooth, per­form their nine days task of Devotion for the Souls in Purgatory, and recommend themselves to the Relicks they carry about them, which they often kiss. I would not be thought to fix this Character upon the whole Nation; it may be affirm'd that there's as good People as in any part of the World, and that they are endow'd with a mighty Greatness of Mind. I'll give you some Instances of this last, which perhaps though you'll look upon as Follies, for every thing has two handles.

The Connestable de Castille is for certain, one of the richest Lords of the Court in Lands; but as he has the same fault as others like him self, which is to be careless in looking after his Interest, so he is ill furnish'd with Money. The Pensions which the King allows him, as he is Doyen or Chief of the Coun­cil of State, Connestable of Castille, and Grand Falconer, are so considerable, as to supply all his wants, but he is so haughty, that he will not receive any thing upon that Account. He gives these Reasons, That when a Subject has Estate enough to live upon, he ought not to be chargeable to his Prince, but ought to serve him, and esteem himself happy; that to be paid for what he does is mercenary and slavish.

The Duke d'Arcas, alias d'Avero, hath likewise another ob­stinate humour; he pretends that the King of Portugal has u­surp'd the Crown from his Family, and therefore when he speaks of him, he never calls him any thing, but Duke de Bra­gance; in the mean while, this Man has forty thousand Crowns a year in Portugal, of which he does not enjoy a farthing, be­cause he will not submit to kiss the King's hand, nor to do him homage.

The King of Portugal hath sent him word, that he will dis­pense with his coming himself, provided he will send in his stead one of his Sons, either the eldest or the youngest, which he will, and that he will then let him receive his Rents; and moreover, will pay him all the Arrears, which amount to an immense Sum. The Duke d'Avero will not so much as hear it mention'd: He says, that seeing he has lost the Crown, it would be a shame for forty thousand Crowns a year, to submit to the Usurper; that the greater evil takes away the sense of the lesser; that the Glory the King would receive from his Homage, would exceed the profit he gets from his Revenue; [Page 212] and that he would have cause to reproach him, for having done an honour to him which was not his due.

The last I reserve for you, is the Prince Destillano; he hath Places and Commissions to dispose of at the Contratraction in Sevile, to the value of fourscore thousand Livres a year. He had rather lose them, than so much as set his hand to the ne­cessary dispatches, saying, It is not agreeble to the Generosity of such a Cavallero as he is, to trouble himself to sign his Name for so small a matter; for you must know, that these fourscore thousand Livers are not in one Article, it may be there is above thirty; and when his Secretary presents to him a dispatch or grant of a Place, worth four or five thousand Livres, he will refuse to sign it, and alledges his Quality, always saying, Esto es una Mineria, that is, it is but a Trifle. The King however is not so nice in the matter, for he fills up the Places for him, and receives the profit to himself.

You'll say now, that the Spaniards are Fools with this their fantastick Grandeur; and perhaps you are in the right, but for my part, and I think I know 'em pretty well, I am not of that Opinion; yet nevertheless I'll own, that whatever difference can be found in comparing the Spaniards and the French, it must be to our advantage; but it does not seem fit for me to med­dle in determining the matter, for my Interest is too much concern'd to let me judge impartially; but yet I am perswaded, that there are very few rational Persons, who would not make the same Judgment.

There are fewer Strangers that come to Madrid, than to any City in the World, and they have reason; for unless they have somebody to procure them Lodging in some private House, they'll run the hazard of being very ill lodg'd, and the Spaniards are not very ready to offer their Houses to any body, because of their Wives, of whom they are extream jealous. I do not know, that in all this City, there's any more than two Inns, whereof at one of them, they eat after the French mode; and when these are full (which they are very quickly, being very little) one knows not what to do; add to this, That there's no conveniency for passing too and fro in the Town, Hackney, or hyr'd Coaches are scarce enough, but one may have as many Chairs as one will; yet it is seldom that Men are carry'd in them, unless they be very old or infirm. But after all, why should Strangers come to Madrid? That which is finest and the most amiable, is always hid, I mean the Women, there's no conversing with them; those Women that may be seen, are such dangerous Creatures for a Man's Health, that it must be a [Page 213] great Curiosity indeed, that a Man can resolve to satisfie at so much risque; yet in spight of all this, the only Pleasure, and the sole Enjoyment of the Spaniards, is to contract some League; even Youths of Quality that are rich, begin at the Age of twelve or thirteen years to entertain a Concubine-Mi­stress, which they call Amancebade, for whom they neglect their Studies, and make away with whatever they can catch up in their Father's House, but 'tis not long before those Creatures give them cause to repent of their Folly.

But that which is terrible is, That there are few Persons in this Country, either of one or t'other Sex, and even of those whose Quality distinguishes them, that are free from that cur­sed Disease; their Children either bring it into the World with them from their Mother's Womb, or suck it from the Nurse; a Virgin may justly be suspected to have it, and they are hardly perswaded to be cur'd of it, they are so certain of falling again into the same Condition. But doubtless this Disease is not so dangerous in Spain as in other Countries, for they still preserve their Hair very fine, and their Teeth very good: At Court, and amongst the Women of the highest Quality, they discourse of it as they do of a Fever, or the Meagrim, and they all bear the Distemper patiently, without so much as troubling themselves one minute about it. As they know not but that the most ver­tuous Women, and the youngest Child may have it, so they never let blood in the Arm, but always in the Foot; they'll let a Child three Weeks old blood in the Foot, and this is so con­stant a Custom amongst them, that unless it be some very able Surgeon, they know not how to let blood in the Arm. I was indispos'd, and was forc'd to make use of the French Ambassa­dor's valet de Chambre, to let me blood in the Arm. By all that I have told you, it is easie to judge, that this is the Nup­tial present which a Spaniard makes to his Wife, and that though they marry, they do not quit their Mistresses, be they never so dangerous. Every time these Mistresses are let blood, their Gallants are oblig'd to give them a compleat new suit of Apparel; and yet you must observe they wear ten or twelve Petticoats at a time; so that this causes no ordinary Expence. The Marquess de Liche understanding that his Mistress was just let blood, and so could not tarry till the Tailor made her a suit which he intended for her, he sent her one that was just brought home for the Marchioness his Lady, who is extream beautiful. It is a common saying with him, That to be the happi­est Man, he would only wish a Mistress as handsom as his Wife.

The great Lords which return very rich from their Govern­ments (whether for the most part they go poor enough, and where they pillage and extort all they can, because they are but for five years time) do not lay out their Money when they come home, in the purchase of Lands; they keep it in their Chests, and as long as it lasts, they live at a great rate, for they think it is below 'em to improve their Money. Following this Method, it would be very hard for the greatest Treasure not to be quickly exhausted; but the future disturbs them but little, for every one of them hopes either for some Vice-Royalty, or some other Post, which will effectually repair all their ill Husbandry, and restore them to a good Condition: And it must be own'd that the King of Spain is capable both to satisfie the Ambition of his Subjects, and to reward their Services; and indeed, many of his Subjects fill up the Places of divers So­vereign Princes, which were the most eminent Men of their Age.

The difference is very remarkable between those Sovereigns heretofore, and the Spaniards at present; it is less as to their Birth, than as to their Merit; for the Families of the great Lords are very Illustrious, there's many of them that are de­scended from the Kings of Castille, Navarre, Arragon and Por­tugal; but yet this does not hinder several of them (for I make an exception) from contradicting the vertue of their Ancestors; but then let's see, how these are educated: They do not study, neither have they any able Masters; as soon as they are design'd for the Sword, no further care is taken to teach them either Latin or History; but one would think they should at least be taught what belongs to their Art, such as the Mathematicks, to fence, and ride the Horse; but they do not so much as think of these Matters. Here are no Academies, nor Masters to teach such things; the young Men pass that time which they should employ for their Instruction, in a wretched Laziness, either in walking about, or courting some Lady; and yet in spight of all this, they are persuaded, that there are not any People in the World which deserve publick Admiration more than they do. They believe Madrid to be the very Center of all Glory and Happiness, of all Arts and Sciences, and of all Delights and Pleasures; in dying, they only wish their Children the enjoy­ment of Paradise, and afterwards that of Madrid; by this means you see they exalt this City above Paradise, with so much satis­faction do they live in't. And 'tis this which hinders them from visiting other Courts, and there acquiring that Politeness which they have not amongst themselves, and to which they are per­fect [Page 215] Strangers. And 'tis this also which makes them so eager to return home to Madrid, let them be where they will, whe­ther they be sent by the King, or let them be there in what Rank or Station they will; let them be never so much honour'd, and heap up never so much Wealth, yet the love to their Coun­try, and the Prepossession for that, hath such a power over them, as to make them renounce every thing; and they had rather choose to lead a mean poor Life, (so it be not observ'd) without any Train, Grandeur or Distinction, provided it be but at Madrid.

It is very seldom, that a Father lets his Son travel abroad, but keeps him at home, and suffers him to take up what Customs he pleases; you may easily believe, that generally these are none of the best; for there's a certain Age, when Youth aims at nothing else, but to gratifie their Appetite, and enjoy Pleasures. One entices and draws another, and that which ought to be severely reprov'd, is authoriz'd by the Example of those, on whom they depend. Add to this, That they make them marry, as one may say, as soon as they are out of the Cradle. At the Age of sixteen or seventeen years they turn in­to the World a young Man with a Wife that is but a Child, and this at once makes him less capable to know his Duty, and puts him upon being more debauch'd, because he is his own Master under no controul: by this means, he passes his Life in a Chim­ney-corner, like a Man in his decriped old Age; and because this gentle Sluggard is of an Illustrious Family, he must be cho­sen to govern a People that must suffer through his Ignorance; but that which is yet worse, is, That such a Man taking himself for some great and knowing Person, acts only by his own head, without consulting or advising with any body, and so does every thing awkwardly and absurdly. The Wife, it may be, is not better stor'd with Wit and Parts; her mighty greatness, with which she prides her self, is the only thing that can make her be regarded; and thus Persons of the highest Capacity, must be subject to two Animals, which are made their Superiors.

But on the other hand, let us be just, and render to Cesar his due. It must be own'd, that when Heaven hath been so kind to a Spaniard, as to give him a good Education, and let him travel and see the World, he makes a better improvement than any body. Nature has been kinder to them than they are to themselves; they are born with more Wit than others; they have a great quickness of Mind joyn'd with great Solidity; they speak and deliver their words with ease, they have a great Me­mory; their Style is near and concise, and they are quick of [Page 216] Apprehension. It is easie to teach them whatever they have a mind to; they are perfect Masters in Politicks, and when there's a Necessity for't, they are temperate and laborious. Without question, several great Qualities may be found amongst them, such as Generosity, Secresie, Friendship, Bravery, and in a word, all those Endowments of Mind, which go to make up a perfect, good, and vertuous Man. And here methinks, I have a fair opportunity to conclude this Letter, and to beget in you an esteem of these People. I should not be sorry, if I could procure them this Happiness; for their Manners do not suit so ill with me, as with a great many others, who cry out against them, and condemn them, before they have either examin'd or known them. For my part, I must needs say, that there is here, both good and bad, as there is in all other parts of the World.

From Madrid this 27th of June, 1679.

LETTER XII.

HEre's a general rejoycing, since the arrival of the Mar­quess de los Balbaces, who brought certain News that the most Christian King had granted Mademoisel to the King of Spain. He so impatiently expected these Tydings, that there was hardly an hour pass'd, that he did not ask if the Courrier was not come; and as soon as he knew it, he immediately went to hear Te Deum at our Lady d' Atocha's Church. As the Ladies do not go thither, so they are to content to dress themselves very fine, and place themselves in their Windows. I chose this, and I thought I should have been both choak'd and blind­ed, it was so excessive dusty. I saw the King in his Coach of green Oyl-cloth; he had but a small attendance, for some twen­ty Halbardiers cloth'd in yellow with trust Breeches like the Pa­ges, made up his Guard, marching before and behind him. The Courtiers Coaches indeed that accompany'd him, were so numerous that they could hardly be told; the People every where crowding, even to the tops of the Houses, cry'd out Viva el Roy, Deos le Bendiga, and several added, Viva el Reina nuestra Seinnora. There was not the least House or Street with­out [Page 217] its spread Tables; every body had their Garlick, Leeks and Onions in their hands, insomuch that they perfum'd the Air with them, and they were even debauch'd with drinking their Majesty's Health in Water: For dear Cousin, though I have al­ready mentioned it to you, yet methinks I may repeat it here, That there never was People so temperate as these, especially in Wine; and they have so strange an abhorrence for those that are guilty of Intemperance, that by their Law, a Man that can be prov'd but once to have been drunk, is refus'd for being a Witness in any Court of Justice where he is offer'd, and after a sharp reproof is sent away. And if it happen, that one calls another Boracho, that is Drunkard, this Injury is sure to be re­veng'd with Murther.

That Night the King was at Antocha; we illuminated all our Houses with great Flamboys of white Wax which they call Ha­chas; they are longer than those that are us'd at Paris, to light the Coaches at night, but withal, they are a great deal dearer, not only because the Wax is brought at great Charges from o­ther Parts of the World, but also because there is a prodigious quantity of it consum'd in Spain. And when they make Illu­minations, they are not contented to set up four or six Flam­boys, but they must put two in every Balcony, and two at each Window up to the highest Story; there are some Houses which thus require four or five hundred. Every where there were Bonefires made, and we went to the Palace to see a Masquerade of a hundred and fifty Lords which they said was to be there. I cannot imagine why they call this Diversion by that Name, for they were not at all maskt; commonly they choose the darkest Night. All the Courtiers are mounted upon their finest Horses, every Horse was covered with Silver Gauze and Hou­sings embroider'd with Gold and Pearl. The Cavalleros were cloath'd in Black, with colour'd Taby Sleeves, embroider'd with Silk and Bugles; they wore little Hatts button'd up with Dia­monds, and in them a Plume of Feathers, they had rich Scarfes and many Jewels; but with all this, their Black Cloaks and their ugly Collars strangely disfigure them. They ride a Horseback like the Turks and Moors, that is, as they call it a Genita, their Stirrups are so short that their knees are even with, and rest upon the Tops of the Horses shoulders. I cannot yet reconcile my Eyes to this Fashion; they say, that thus they can better raise and put themselves forth against any that assaults them. But to return to the Masquerade, they all met together at an appointed Place, which usually is at one of the Gates of the City. The Streets through which they were to go, were all strewed [Page 218] with Sand, and on each side there was a kind of Chaffing dishes set upon Poles, which beside the white Wax Flamboys gave a great Light, there were also placed several very clear Lanthorns in Windows, which made a very fine Show. Every Cavallero had a great many Footmen, which were cloath'd in Cloath of Gold and Silver; they went by their Masters sides with Flamboys. The Masters marcht four in a rank very softly, each holding a Flamboy also; they went all over the City attended with Trumpets, Timbrels, Bagpipes and Flutes, and when they came to the Palace which was illuminated, and the Court co­vered with Sand, they took several Turns, and run and pusht against one another with a Design to throw each other down with these tricks. Prince Alexander de Parma, who is of a prodigious bigness fell down, and the fall of him made as great a noise as the shooting of a moderate high-hill, they had much ado to carry him off, for he was grievously bruis'd with his Fall; there were several of them with their great Spectacles on, but particularly the Marquess D' Astorgas, who does not only wear them for gravity sake, but for need, for he is old; but yet for all that, he is frolicksom, he will be Meyor Domo to the young Queen, and he is a Grandee of Spain.

And now I speak of a Grandee of Spain, Don Fernand de Tolledo, told me t'other day a thing pleasant enough. His Father in Law, who is the Marquess De Palacios, lives at a horrid pro­fuse rate, for it seems he is one of those profest Gallants of the Ladies of the Pallace, and to arrive to that, one must both have a great deal of Wit, and shew abundance of Magnificence, I mean a certain peculiar sort of Wit that's neat and refin'd, he must have choice Phrases and Expressions, and some ways and modes not common, he must understand how to write both in Prose and Verse, and that too better than another. In a word, one must both talk and do in this Pallace-Gallantry af­ter quite another rate than is us'd in the City. But to return to the Marquess De Palacios. There was a publick Festival appointed by the King, this Marquess wanted Money to ap­pear there, he is Lord of several Towns, it came into his head to go down post to them; assoon as he arriv'd, at the first, he caus'd Papers to be set up, That all those of that Town which desir'd to be made Grandees, should immediately come to him. There was not either Justice, Burgess or Tradesman, which was not presently fill'd with vehement Ambitious de­sires for the Grandeza his House was crowded with all sorts of People, he agreed with them every one severally in private, and got as much as he could of them, and afterwards he made [Page 219] them all be covered before him, and gave them Patents in Form just as the King does, when he makes any one a Grandee. His Invention succeeded two well in the first Town, not to practise it in the rest: He found amongst them the same Dis­position to give him Money, that through his means they might be Grandees, with this trick, he got a considerable Sum, and away he comes, and makes a splendid Shew at Court. But as a Man is never without Enemies, so there were some Per­sons that had a mind to make use of this pleasant Frolick to put him out of the King's Favour. His Majesty was told of it, and the Marquis justified himself well enough, in saying all those to whom he had granted permission to be covered before him, being born his Vassals, they ow'd more respect than to dare to take this liberty without his leave, and that therefore he had made them Grandees, as to himself. And after this the thing was only lookt upon as a merry jest.

This Marquess comes often to see us, and as he belong'd to the late Court, so Yesterday he told me, that a famous Astrologer being one day with the late King in the Terrass-walk of the Pallace, the King askt him the height of that Place, he gaz'd up into the Air, and nam'd a certain Height. The King pri­ately order'd them to raise the Pavement of the Terrass about three or four fingers, and in the Night it was done. The next Morning he caus'd the Astrologer to come to him, and being up­on the Terrass with him, says he to him, I spoke last night of the height you told me of this Walk, but there was some that maintain'd that you were mistaken, Sir, says he, I dare say, I was not mistaken; But consider it well says the King, and af­terwards we'll him asham'd, which boasts himself to be a more knowing Man than you. Immediately he began again to make his Observations, the King saw him change colour, and seem to be at a great loss; but at last he drew nigh the King, and said, what I told your Majesty Yesterday was true, but to day I find, that either the Terrass is rais'd, or the Heavens are sunk down a little lower. The King smil'd, and told him the trick he had put upon him.

That I may give you an Account of other matters, I must tell you, that the King has in his Family three Persons which by way of Eminency are call'd, the great Officers, the Mayor Domo Mayor, the Sumiller of the Body, and the Master of the Horse. These three Places are thus distinguisht, the Mayor Do­mo commands in the Pallace, the Business of the Sumiller of the Body, is in the King's Chamber, and the Master of the Horse, orders all things in every Place, except the Pallace.

After these come the Gentlemen of the Kings Bed-chamber, they wear at their Girdle for a mark of their Dignity, a gold­en Key. There are three sorts of these Keys; the first, gives the Employment of the Gentleman of the Bed-chamber; the second, the Entrance with the Employment; and the third is call'd, Clavae Capona, which only gives Entrance into the Anti-chamber. The Number of these Gentlemen is great, there are Forty of those for Service, which take it in turns every day, and for the most part they are Grandees of Spain. The Mayor Domo, that is to say, the Steward in Ordinary, have the same Access as the Gentlmen of the Bed-chamber. The Persons of highest Quality fill up these Places, for the most part they are the second Sons of the Grandees, they wait in turns every Week, and when the High-Steward is absent, they are invest­ed with his Power, these also introduce Foreign Ministers when they have Audience, there are eight of them, sometimes more, but seldom fewer.

The King hath three Companies for his Guards, but they have not any thing that agrees with one another. The Mar­quess De Falces commands the Flemish or Burgundian Guard, it consists of a hundred Halbardiers, and although here, they call them the Yeomen of the Guard; yet they may be call'd the Life Guard; the German Guard consists of the same Number, Don Pedro D' Arragon is Captain of it, the Spanish Guard is also com­pos'd of a hundred Halberdiers, and are commanded by the Count De los Arcos. He is likewise Captain of another Company of a hundred Spaniards, call'd the Guards of the Lancilla, and this never appears, but at great Ceremonies, and at the Funerals of Kings. The Affairs of the State are manag'd by a Chief Minister which they call Privado, he hath under him a Secretary of State, whose Office is in the Pallace. All Business that come to the King and the Minister, ought to pass directly through his hands, and as he dispatches also whatever the King orders, so he is call'd Secretario del despacho Ʋniversal.

The Council of State, and divers other Councils examine all matters, and the King or the Chief Minister, afterwards de­termine them, there are a great many Counsellors: Here fol­low the Names of those which at present compose the Coun­cil of State, Viz. The Constable De Castile of the Family of the Valesaco's, is the President, the Duke D' Albe, the Duke De Medicina Celi, Don Pedro D' Arragon, the Admiral of Cast­ile, the Marquess D' Astorgas, the Prince De Stillano, the Duke D' Ossona, the Count De Chinchon, Don Vincent Gouzaga, Prince De Guastalla, Don Lewis Portocarrero Cardinal Archbishop of [Page 221] Tolledo, the Marquess De Liches, the Marquess De los Balbares Don Diego Sarmituto, Don Melchios Navarra, the Marquess De Losveler, the Marquess De Mansera, and the Duke D' Albur­querque.

Besides This Council, which is the principal, there is that of the Inquisition of War, of the Orders of Arragon, of the In­dies, of Italy, of Hazienda, of the Croisado, and of Flanders, there is also the Chamber of Castile, of the Alcaides de Corta, of the Contaduria, D' Aposento, Delos Bosques Reales, De Mil­liones, and De Competancias. But do not think, dear Kinswo­man, that the Salleries and Profits of those Places are small. For instance, The Counsellors of the Council of the Indies, make from eighteen to twenty thousand Crowns a Year of their Places. And here 'tis pertinent to tell you, that 'tis thought no Places are sold in this Countrey, at least it is not known; in in all appearace they are bestow'd upon Merit or Birth, but yet underhand, there are such considerable Presents made, that to get a Vice Royalty, they'll give Five thousand Pistols, and sometimes more. That which would be call'd Buying in ano­ther Countrey, at Madrid is term'd giving a Regalio, that is, making a Present, and one is equivalent to the other, with this difference, that a Place, or a Government which one buys, is yours as long as you live, and sometimes passes by Inheritance to your Children, either by natural Right, or the Concession of the Prince; but in Spain, they enjoy a Place which cost them very dear, only three or five Years at most. It is easie to believe that those who advance so much, are very certain to reimburse themselves both Principal and Interest. From this Practice the People are horribly opprest, they have perpe­tually upon them, either a new Vice Roy, or Governour, which comes from draining himself of all the ready-Money which he could either make of his own and sometimes of his Friends, to bribe the Court. Thus he comes hungry, and he has but a short time to enrich himself, and so the poor People are on all hands pillaged, without so much as being able to have their Com­plaints heard. But it is yet quite another thing in the Indies, where Gold is so plentiful, and they are so far from the King and his Ministers. It is certain they bring from thence im­mense Sums, as I think, I have already intimated to you, even the Religious as they call them, who are sent to preach there, return not without forty and fifty thousand Crowns, which they have heap'd up in four or five Years time; so notwith­standing their Vow of Poverty, they find out the secret of grow­ing rich; and during their Life they are suffer'd to enjoy the Fruit of their Mission.

The Monasteries here, have yet another piece of Craft, which commonly succeeds, when a Religieus Person or Fryer happens to be the only Son. If his Father is rich, they beg him to leave his Estate to the Convent, where his Son has ta­ken the Habit, upon condition that he shall manage and en­joy it whilst he lives, but after his Death that the Monastery shall inherit it, and put up Prayers and say Masses for the Fa­ther and the Son. By this means there are profes'd Fryars which have ten thousand Crowns a Year, at their disposal. This Affluence in a Countrey where Reason has put little pow­er over the Affections, does not always make them more ho­ly; and if there are any that use it well, there are abundance which abuse it.

It is known, that every year there comes from the Indies, above five and thirty Millions of Crowns, but yet not a quarter part of this ever goes into the King of Spain's Coffers. These Treasures spread themselves over all Europe, the French, English, Dutch, and the Genoeses, draw away the best shares of it. Methinks, this does not suit with the refin'd Policy of the Spaniards, to waste their own Subjects in digging Gold out of the Mines, to let other Nations, with whom they are often at War, reap the Profit; but the natural Laziness which hin­ders them from working, and to have at home Manufactures of their of their own, obliges them to have recourse to those, who can furnish their Countrey with the Merchandizes they want.

As Strangers dare not venture to go there, because it is upon no less penalty than hanging, so they contrive to send their effects in the Names of the Spanish Merchants, with whom they meet with all the Fidelity imaginable; and if the King would, he could not hinder Strangers from receiving what is properly theirs; for the Spaniards upon this occasion, had rather loose their Lives, than any wrong should come to ano­ther. There's one thing remarkable, and that is, when the Flota comes to an Anchor at Cadiz, there are Men who make publick profession to assist in cheating the King of his Customs upon Silver and other Merchandizes. It is as much their Trade and Livelyhood, as for a Banker to deal in Money. They call them Metadors; and as much Knaves as they are towards the King, yet one must do them the right to say, they are not so to the private men which agree with them for a certain reward securely to lodge their Silver in such a place of the City as they shall desire. And this practice is so certain and safe, that one never hears of any that have violated their Trust: It [Page 223] were easie to punish these men for the Frauds they are guilty of against the King, but there would be Inconveniencies to the prejudice of Trade, perhaps far greater, than the Punish­ments would bring Advantage; so that the Government and Magistrates take no notice of what passes. There might also be an easie remedy found out to hinder the King from losing all upon this occasion; and that is, to abate the Duties a little, which indeed are very high, and so what is given to these Me­tadors, and somewhat more, might be paid to the Cotratacti­on, for naturally the Merchants do not love cheating, and are continually afraid of paying at once, what they have been sa­ving for half a score Voyages; but 'tis the humour of the Spaniards, To have all or nothing, and very often they have no­thing. As to Madrid, it is impossible to find there any great­er Robbers and Cheats than the Magistrates and Officers them­selves; these are the Men, that with Impunity appropriate to themselves the Kings Customs, and who cheat him after such a rate, that 'tis no wonder if he so often wants Money: but they are not satisfied with cheating their Sovereign, they must also abuse and pillage the People; and although the Laws of this Nation are not only very just, but equitable, yet no body seems to be sensible of them: Those very Persons into whose Hands they are put, and who are set on purpose to execute them, are the first that break and corrupt them.

If you'll but give Money to an Alcalde, or to an Alguazil, you may have the most innocent Person in the World arrested or seized, and then thrown into some nasty dark hole of a Prison, and there perish with hunger, without any proceeding or coming to a Tryal, and wthout any Order or Degree; and when the poor wretch is let out of Prison, he must not so much as think of doing himself right against this wicked Officer of Justice. This sort of People are generally much favour'd e­very where, but here they are beyond all measure; and righteous Judges in this Country are more scarce than in any Country whatever.

Thieves, Murderers, Poysoners, and the greatest Criminals imaginable, remain safe and quiet at Madrid, provided they are not rich, for if they be, they are sure to be disturb'd for the sake of that.

They do not judge Criminal Matters above twice or thrice a year; it is with the greatest difficulty that they bring them­selves to cause any Criminal to dye, who is, say they, a man like them, their Country-man, and the King's Subject; they send most either to the Mines, or to the Gallies, and when a­ny [Page 224] Wretch is condemned to be hang'd, he is carry'd upon an Ass, with his Face to the Tail; he is cloath'd in black, and a Scaffold is erected for him, that he may make a Speech to the People, who are all upon their Knees, and in Tears, beating themselves upon their Breasts: After he has spent what time he will in his Harangue, he is dispatch'd with a great deal of Gravity; and as these Examples of Justice are very rare, so they make a mighty impression upon the Spectators.

Notwithstanding the vast Riches, and the excessive haughti­ness and Presumption of the great Lords, yet they obey the least Order of the King, with that exactness and Respect which cannot be sufficiently prais'd. Upon the first Command, they depart, they return, go to Prison, or into Banishment, with­out murmuring. It is not possible to find a more perfect Sub­mission and Obedience, nor a more sincere Love, than that of the Spaniards for their King. This Name is Sacred with them, and to bring them to whatever one has a mind, it is sufficient to say, The King Wills it; 'tis under his Name, that the poor People of both the Castilles are so horribly opprest with Taxes: the other Kingdoms or Provinces are not so loaded, but boast themselves for the most part, that they are a free People, and pay but what they have a mind to.

I have already hinted to you, dear Cousin, that in every thing they exactly follow the Politicks of Charles V. without considering that the difference of times makes a mighty altera­tion in the Events of things, although they may seem to be alike, and in the same Circumstances; and that what with­out the imputation of rashness might have been undertaken 120 years ago under a flourishing Reign, would be impudent to practise now under a Reign that is far less so: but a vanity that is natural to them, hinders them from seeing, that Pro­vidence sometimes permits Empires, as well as particular Fami­lies, to have their Revolutions and Periods. The Spaniards believe themselves to be just the same People, and in the same Circumstances they ever were; but though I never knew their Ancestors, yet I dare say they deceive themselves.

But not to make any farther Reflexions, which perhaps are too serious and high for me, I will tell you, that here's a ge­neral rejoycing at Madrid for the arrival of the Flota from the Indies. As 'tis not their humour here to treasure up Wealth, so this prodigious quantity of Silver, which comes all at a lump, is spread over all the World. One would think that these immense Summs cost nothing, and that it is Money which chance sent them. Hereupon the great Lords summon [Page 225] their Creditors, and pay them with a profuseness, which yet without lying, has something in't that is both noble and very generous; for there are but few Countries where Liberality is so natural, as 'tis in this; and I must also add, that they are patient even to admiration. They have been known to endure most long and toilsome Sieges, in which besides the Fatigues of War, they had nothing to support them but Bread made of rotten Corn, and stinking Water for their Drink; and yet there are no Men in the World more nice about good Water. I say, notwithstanding all this, and that they have been ex­pos'd to the Severities of the Weather, were half naked, and had hard Lodging, yet in spight of all these things, they have been found more brave and couragious, than when they en­joy'd Plenty and Prosperity. It is true, that that Temperance which is so natural to them, is a mighty help to them to en­dure hunger when they are forc'd to it; they eat very little, and scarcely will they drink any Wine. The Custom they have of eating all alone, contributes something to make them so fru­gal; for indeed, neither their Wives, nor their Children, ever eat with them. The Master has his Table to himself, and the Mistress with her Children sit on the Floor upon a Carpet, after the Turkish and Moorish way. They seldom or never invite their Friends to feast together, so that they are not guilty of a­ny excess. Upon this account, it is their saying, That they only eat to live, whereas there are People, which only live to eat. Nevertheless, there are some rational People, which find this affectation too great; and as they admit of little familiarity in Conversation, so they perpetually live at a distance, and as 'twere in Ceremony with one another, without enjoying that freedom which makes that true Union, and produces that de­sirable openness of Heart.

This great Retirement gives them up to a thousand Illusions, which they call Philosophy; it makes them singular, dull, fan­tastick, melancholy and jealous; whereas if they govern'd them­selves otherwise, there's nothing they would not be capable of, since they have a wonderful vigour of Mind, an excellent Memory, good Sense, a solid Judgment, and great Patience; than which, there needs no more to make a Man wise, to grow in Perfection, to be agreeable in Conversation, and to distin­guish himself from the most polite Nation. But they are so far from being what naturally they might be, though at never so little pains, that they affect a certain Indolency which they call greatness of Mind; they neglect their most important business, and the advancement of their Fortunes. Provision for the fu­ture, [Page 226] gives them not the least disturbance; the only matter they are not indifferent in, is Jealousie; they improve that to the utmost, the bare suspicion is enough to make them stab their Wife or their Mistress. Their Passion of Love is always furious, and yet the Women please themselves in it; they say, they would not for all the mischief that may befall them, have them less sensible of their unfaithfulness; that their desperate Temper is a certain proof of a true Passion, and that they themselves are not more moderate when they are in Love. They leave nothing unattempted to be reveng'd of those they love, if they forsake them without cause; so that these sort of amorous Engagements have commonly a fatal end. For in­stance, not long since, a Woman of Quality, who had cause to complain of her Gallant, contriv'd to get him into a House where she commanded, and after she had sufficiently reproach'd him, against which he did but weakly defend himself, for he was guilty; she presented to him a Ponyard, and a Cup of poy­son'd Chocolate, leaving him only the liberty which sort of Death he would choose: He did not waste one minute to move her pitty, he very well saw, that in this Place she was the strongest, so that he tamely drank off the Chocolate without leaving a drop. After he had drunk it, says he to her, it had been better if you had put a little more Sugar in't, for the Poy­son made it very bitter; remember to do so the next time you prepare another. He was immediately seiz'd with Convul­sions; it was very violent Poyson, and kill'd him in an hours time; and for all this Lady still lov'd him passionately, yet she had the barbarity not to stir from him till he was dead.

The Venetian Ambassador, who is a very well accomplish'd Man, being lately at home, they brought him word, that a Lady cover'd with a Mantle desir'd to speak with him, and that she hid her self so close, they could not possibly see what she was; she had with her two Gentlemen Ushers, and a conside­rable Attendance. He invited her to his Chamber of Audience, and she desir'd he would cause every body to go out. When she was alone with him, she unveil'd her self, and appear'd to him extream handsom. I am of an Illustrious Family, says she to him, my Name is Donna Blanca de Gusman; I have despis'd all the Laws of Decency, in Favour of that Passion I have for you; I came to declare it to you, my Lord, and to tell you, that I must needs remain here this Night. From such an impudent Speech, the Ambassador could not in the least doubt, that this was some Tilt that had borrow'd a great Name, to draw him into some Snare: but yet with abundance of kindness, he told her, that [Page 227] till now he had never thought himself unhappy in the Service of the Republick, that he could wish he were not an Ambassa­dor, that so he might embrace the Favour she offer'd him; but that being in such a Station, there was little likelihood that he could give Entertainment to a Person of her Eminent Quality, that this might bring him into great trouble, and therefore beg'd her that she would withdraw. Immediately she was like a Fury, and after she had revil'd and reproach'd him, she drew out a Stilletto, and run upon him to have stab'd him. He easily prevented her, and having call'd one of his Gentlemen, bid him give five or six Pistols to this Woman. She so little de­serv'd this Generosity, and it so appeas'd her, that she really told him, she was one of those Creatures he took her for, and that the reason why she had been so desperate, was, that the Gentlemen Ushers, who waited for her below, were her Gal­lants, and would have broke her bones if she had made no ad­vantage of the Plot they had laid; and that besides, she was to pay for the Equipage she came in, which was hir'd purposely for this design, and that she had much rather have dy'd, than to have endur'd all those Abuses. The Ambassador was so taken with her pleasant Confession, that he caus'd ten Pistols more to be given her; for, says he to her, since so many honest Folks must share with you, your part will be too small. She succeeded so well here, that she went directly to the French Embassadors; but she was not so courteously receiv'd there: For upon the first Apprehension of her Design, she and her Attendance escapt very narrowly of being entertain'd with the Strapado. He gave her not a Sons, happy was she that got out as she came in, for he had an aversion for all these Creatures.

This Morning we tarried a while in the Placa Mayor, for an Answer of a Message my Kinswoman had sent to a Gentleman that dwelt there. In this Place Fish is sold, and there was a Woman which had some little bits of Salmon to sell, which she said was fresh; she made a horrid noise in crying it, and in calling Customers to buy it, at last comes a Shooemaker, which I knew for such, because she call'd him Sinior Capatcro; he ask her for a Pound of her Salmon (and by the way, you must ob­serve, that every thing here is bought by the pound, even Wood and Charcoal) says she to him, You do not enquire after the price, because you think 'tis cheap, but do not deceive your self, I assure you, I must have a Crown for every pound. The Shoomaker vext that she questioned his thoughts and ability, with an angry tone said to her, had it been very cheap, I would have had but one pound, but since 'tis dear, I'll have three, and im­mediately [Page 228] he gives her three Crowns, and then thrusting down his little Hat (for you must know that the Tradesmen wear them as narrow as the People of Quality wear them broad, and turning up his Mustachios by way of Rodamentade, he rais'd the point of his formidable Sword almost to the top of his shoul­der, and haughtily lookt at us, having well observ'd that we took notice of him and overheard his Discourse and were Stran­gers; but the pleasantness of the thing lies here, perhaps these three Crowns was all that ever this vain-glorious Fool had in the World, that this was his whole Weeks profit, and that to morrow, himself, his Wife and poor Children, would have a more severe Fast, than with Bread and Water; but such is the vain humour of these People here; nay there are some of them which will take the legs of a Capon, and will let them hang down under their Cloaks, that they may look as if they really had a Capon, whilst they have nothing but the Legs and Feet.

You cannot see a Joyner, a Sadler, or other sort of Shop­keeper, without his Velvet and Sattin Suit like the Kings, with his long Rapier and Dagger, and his Guattar hung up in his Shop. They work as little as ever they can, for I have more than once told you, that they are naturally lazy. Indeed no­thing but over-ruling Necessity drives them to do any thing at all, and then they work upon Sundays and other Festivals, without any scruple, as well as upon any other Day; and afterwards they carry their Goods abroad. If 'tis a Shoomaker and he has two Prentices, he takes them both with him, and each of them carry a Shooe, nay if he has three, they must all go along with him, and 'tis with much ado, that he'll stoop to try the Shooes he made; when he has done, he goes and sits him down in the Sun (which is call'd the Spaniard's Fire) with a Company of such idle Fellows as himself, and there with a sovereign Authority they determine matters of State, and settle the Interest of Prin­ces; very often they fall out about them, some one of them that takes himself to be a more able Politician than the rest, will have them yield to his Judgment, but another as conceited as himself will not submit, and so they fall together by the Ears without Mercy. I was two days ago to see the Danish Embas­sador's Lady, and there was brought in thither a poor Wretch which was just then wounded in the Street; he was a Coster­monger, and it seems had maintain'd that the Grand Senior would not be reckoned a cunning Politician if he did not cause his Brother to be strangled; another to whom that young Prince was not so displeasing, stood up in his defence, and thereupon these two fell a fighting; but after all, to give them their due, [Page 229] all these People talk of Government and Politicks with a great deal of Judgment, and give good Reasons for what they say.

Here is in this City several Houses which are a sort of Acade­mies, where People meets some to Play, and others for Conver­sation. They play there with great honesty, and let them lose what Sum they will upon Honour, they never fail to pay it in twenty four hours. If there should be any failure, their Ho­nour and Reputation is for ever lost. No Reason whatsoever will be admitted against the necessity of paying in that time. They play there very high and very fairly, without noise or shewing the least vexation or concern: If they win, it is the Cu­stom to give the Barato; this I think is also us'd in Italy, that is to say, you give Money to those that are present, to some more to others less, and this whether you know them or no. He to whom you present the Barato must never refuse it, let him be a hundred times richer and better Quality than the Donour, nay one may demand it of a Gamester that is winning, and he'll not deny to give it. There are People that have no other Subsistance than this; but yet this is no good Custom, for though a Man does win, yet sometimes he hardly carries any thing of his gains away with him, and if he begins to play again, he often loses his own.

Further, if a Man is found to have cheated, he has as good be­times to forsake all Company; for no honest Person will have any thing to do with him, and if he is taken in the fact, he may think himself happy if he comes off with some Cuchillades, that is, some Cuts, but not Thrusts with a Sword.

As to the Conversation in these Academies, there's of it that is very ingenious, and very knowing Persons that frequent them; for in a word, they are here just as in other Places, and there are some that write very fine things. What they call Novels seem to me to be of a Stile, and to have an Air that charms; they never advance any thing but what's probable, and the Sub­jects they take is so well manag'd, and their Narration so con­cise and plain, neither mean nor lofty, that one must needs grant they have a Genius, which surpasses all others, in these sort of pieces. I will endeavour to get some of this kind, and will translate and send them to you, that so you may judge of them your self. As I have not capacity enough to speak of things which treat of more sublime matters, so shall I say no­thing of them till I have been inform'd by those that are com­petent Judges, and then I shall only pretend to be their Eccho. But after all I must needs say, that I think them extravagant in their Elogies, and that in them they keep not near to probabi­lity, their Imagination, which is very lively and active, some­times [Page 230] runs too fast. I was t'other day reading in a Book, where speaking of Philip the VI. the Author said, that his Vertues and great Qualities were so many, that there was not Paper enough in the World to write them down; that a common Pen was not worthy to describe such divine things, and therefore they de­serv'd to be writ by the Rays of the Sun upon the surface of the Heavens. You'll grant me that this is really losing a Mans self in the Clouds, and that with endeavouring to exalt his Hero, our poor Author falls and breaks his own neck. Their Books are very ill printed, rheir Paper is not white, and they are very ill bound, being cover'd with Parchment or Sheep-skin Leather.

I must not forget to tell you one thing, and 'tis very material, and that is the Policy of the Spaniards, which perswades them rather to be at the charge of a hundred false Informations, than to neglect the Opportunity of receiving one true Advice: nei­ther the distance of the Country from whence they come, nor their Agents, are suspected by them, they will know every thing and liberally recompense those that serve them, nay they'll hardly tarry till the Service is accepted, before they will reward them. You cannot believe how much advantage this Maxim has gain'd them, they have been sometimes taken for Fools, but that has not dis­couraged them, and in the end they always had what they in­tended. It is likewise true, that though they have but very slender ground to beg a favour of the King, yet provided they are not disheartned with Repulses, but pursue their first Design with Perseverance, sooner or later they obtain what they wisht for. The Ministers of State think 'tis not suitable to the Grandeur of so mighty a Monarch to refuse a small matter; and tho there's but little Justice in pretending to a favour which one has not de­served by some Service, yet if it is sued for without intermission, it is always obtain'd. I see Examples of it every day.

I have not yet told you, dear Cousin, that upon my Arrival here, all the Ladies did me the Honour to visit me first. It is the Custom here to prevent Strangers, when once they know they are of Quality and their good Conduct, concerning both which they are very nice. When I return'd them their Visit, every one made me a Present; sometimes in one House I re­ceiv'd a Dozen, for even the Children of four Years old will treat you. I was presented with great Baskets of gilt Silver, a­dorn'd with Corral curiously wrought in Flowers; these are made at Naples and Millan: I had also Amber Boxes set with Gold, ennammell'd and full of Pastils; divers presented me with Gloves and with Silk-Stockings and Garters in abundance; but these Gloves are singular, in that they are as short as the [Page 231] Mens, for the Women wear their Sleeves down to their Wrists, the Fingers are so long that they look as if they were nothing else, and are ridiculous: The Stockings are made of Polo, that is raw Silk; they are made so short and so little in the Foot, that I have seen several Babies that they would not fit; the Garters are of a broad Ribbond, made very light and thin, like those our Peasants give at their Weddings; they are trim'd at each end with some English Thread Lace. They presented me also with several Cups of that Mineral Earth, and a thousand other things of this kind. If ever I go from hence, and make another Journey hither, it will be my turn to present: But alass! any thing pleases them, Needles, Pins, a little Ribbond, but above all, any thing made of their false Stones ravishes them with Joy; they that have so many that are right and so excel­lent, yet wear a prodigious quantity of these false ones, which in reality are nothing neither, but bitts of Glass sett, and just like those our Chimney-sweepers sell to our Provincials, who never saw more than their Curate and their Flock. The Ladies of the greatest Quality are loaded with these false Stones, which they buy at dear rates; and when I askt them why they were so fond of these conterfeit Diamonds, they told me it was because they could have of them as big as they desir'd. And indeed they have of them in their Pendants, as big as an Egg, and all these come to them either from France or Italy; for as I have told you, few things are made at Madrid, Idleness reigns too much there.

There's no good Painters in this City, the greatest part of those that draw, are not of this Country; they are either Flem­mings, Italians or French, which come and settle here; but yet they do not grow rich, for Money does not come and move in the circle of Trade. For my part, I must needs say, I never saw less stirring. My Kinswoman receives pretty considerable Sums all in Quartos; it is Copper Money, and as nasty as our Doubles; but as bad as 'tis, yet it com [...] [...]ut of the Royal Trea­sure; it is deliver'd by Weight (for how is't possible to count such sorry stuff?) and Men bring it upon their backs in great matted Baskets; when these sort of Payments come, the whole House is employ'd for eight days together in taking an Account of these Quartos, in three or four thousand Crowns, there's not a hundred Pistols, either in Gold or Silver.

They have here great numbers of Slaves, which are bought and sold at great rates, these are Moors and Turks; there are some of them worth four or five hundred Crowns; heretofore they had power of Life and Death over them, a Patron might [Page 232] have killed his Slave as he might have kill'd a Dog; but it was thought that these Barbarities did not agree with the Maxims of the Christian Religion, and now that Practice is forbid; but yet they beat them till they cripple them, without ever being call'd to account for't. It's true, there are but few Masters that are thus severe; and if a Man happen to love his female Slave, and she grants his desires, she becomes immediately free. As to the other Domesticks, it would be somewhat dangerous to use them ill; they pretend for the most part, to be of as good Families as the Masters they serve; and if they should be a­bus'd, they would be in a capacity to revenge themselves, either by Treacherously Murdering, or Poysoning of them; there are many Examples of this, they say, that a Man ought not to in­sult over them, because they are poor, that though they are reduced to serve, yet they have not renounc'd their Honour; and that they should forfeit it, if they should take blows from any body whatever.

The Beggars are even proud, and when they ask an Alms, it is in an imperious and domineering way; if one refuses them, it must be done civilly, in saying to them, Cavallero, Per­done, usted, no tenga moneda; that is, Pardon me Cavallero, I have no Money. If you give them a rough Denial, they'll be­gin to argue with you, and undertake to prove to you, that that you do not deserve that Estate God has blest you with, and will never let you alone; but if one speaks courteously to them, they seem well enough content and desist.

The Spaniards are naturally gentle and kind; they marry their Slaves, and if it be with another Slave, the Children they have are not free, but like their Fathers, are subject to the Pa­tron; but if these Children marry, their Issue shall not be Slaves. And so it is, if a Woman Slave marry a Free-man, their Chil­dren follow the Condition of the Father. One is mighty well serv'd by these unhappy Wretches; they are far more diligent, laborious and humble than other Servants; there are few of them that will change their Religion. I have one that is not above nine years old; she is as black as Jett, and would be reckon'd in her own Country a wonderful Beauty, for her Nose is quite flat, her Lips prodigiously thick, her Eyes of a white and red colour, and her Teeth admirable, in Europe as well as in Africa. She understands not a word of any other Language than her own; her Name is Zayde, we have got her baptized; this young Christian has been so us'd to throw off her white Mantle, and to be quite naked when she was expos'd to sale, that I have had much ado to hinder her from doing so now; [Page 233] and t'other day, when we had a great deal of Company, I sent for her; and truly Mrs. Zayde was pleas'd to appear before them all with her little black Body as naked as she was born. I am resolved to have her whipt, to make her know that this sort of fashion does not please me, for there is no other way to make her understand. Those that sold her to me, told me she was a Girl of Quality, and the poor Child will come often and fall down on her Knees before me, hold her hands together, cry, and point towards her Country; I would willingly send her thither, if she could there be a Christian; but this impossibility obliges me to keep her. I would fain understand her, for I be­lieve she is witty, all her Actions shew it; she dances after her fashion, and 'tis so pleasantly, that she makes us very merry. I make her wear white Patches, with which she is mightily taken. She is drest as they are at Moroco, that is, with a short Gown almost without any plights, great Shift-sleeves of fine Cloth, strip'd with different colours, like those of our Bohemians or Gypsies; a pair of Stays which are only made of a slip of Crim­son Velvet with a gold ground, and are made fast at the sides with silver Buckles and Buttons, and a Mantle of very fine white woollen stuff, very large and long, in which she wraps her self, and with one corner of it covers her Head. This dress is handsome enough; her short Hair, which looks like Wool, is cut in several places, on each side like a Half-moon, on the the Crown a Circle, and before a Heart; she cost me twenty Pistols, my Daughter hath made her Governess of her Marmo­sett; it is the little Monkey which the Arch-bishop of Burgos presented to her. I do assure you, that Zayde and the Marmo­sett are well met, and understand one another very well.

But to come to other things, here's arriv'd a Man which has been fetch'd from the farthest parts of Galicia; he is such a Saint, that he has done many Miracles, as 'tis pretended. The Marchioness de Los Velez, heretofore Governess of the King, was like to dye, and she sent to have him come in all haste, but they were so long upon the Journey, that she was well again before he came. It was known what day he would arrive, and while she was then expecting him, Don Fernand de Tolleda, who is her Nephew, and had not seen her since his return from Flanders, because of her having been sick; knowing that she was then much better, happen'd to go to her House much about the time the Saint of Galitia was to be there. The Marchioness's People seeing him, and not knowing him at all, (for he had been absent several years) without considering that there were few Men of his Age and Looks so happy as to work Miracles, [Page 234] concluded, at first sight, that he was the Saint: immediately they threw open the great door, and rung the Bell for the sig­nal, as the Marchioness had order'd them; all the Duennas and the Maids came to receive him with every one a Wax-Candle in her hand; several of them fell upon their Knees, and would not let him stir till he had given them his blessing. He thought they made a fool of him, to give him such a reception; he knew not whether he was bewitch'd, or whether he dreamt; and do what he could, he could not perswade himself that all this was real; it was to no purpose to talk to them, they mind­ed him not at all, the noise and the crowd was so great; they brought their Beads to touch him, and those that were far off him, threw them at his Head, with a hundred Medals fasten'd to them. The most zealous began to cut his Cloak and his Cloaths; and now his fear began to be very great, lest through a desire to multiply his Relicks, they did not cut him to pieces. The Marchioness de Los Veloz, who was carried between four in a great Elbow-Chair, came to meet the Holy Man: and truly when she perceiv'd the mistake, and saw it was her Nephew, she fell a laughing so loud and so long, that she far exceeded the strength every body thought she had. When he came from her House, he came to see us, all torn, and just as the devout People had left him.

I should tell you, that all is mighty private and retir'd in this Court; but here's the way and manner how some particular Persons live: In the Morning as soon as they are up, they drink Water cool'd with Ice, and presently after Chocolate; when Dinner-time is come, the Master sits down to Table, his Wife and Children, as I have already observ'd, eat upon the Floor near the Table; this is not done out of respect, as they tell me, but the Woman cannot sit upon a Chair, she is not accustomed to it; and there are several ancient Spanish Wo­men which never sat upon one in their whole Life: they make a light meal, for they eat little flesh; the best of their food are Pigeons, Pheasants, and their Olio's which are excellent; but the greatest Lord has not brought to his Table above two Pi­geons, and some very bad Ragou, full of Garlick and Pepper; and after that some Fennel and a little Fruit: when this little Dinner is over, every one in the House undress themselves, and lye down upon their Beds, upon which they lay Spanish Lea­ther-Skins for coolness: at this time you shall not find a soul in the Streets; the Shops are shut, all Trade ceas'd, and it looks as if every body were dead. At two a Clock in the Winter, and at four in the Summer, they begin to dress themselves a­gain, [Page 235] then eat Sweet-meats, drink either some Chocolate, or Waters cool'd in Ice, and afterwards every body goes where they think fit; and indeed they tarry out till eleven or twelve a Clock at Night, I speak of People that live regularly. Then the Husband and Wife go to Bed, a great Table-Cloth is spread all over the Bed, and each fastens it under their Chin; the He and She Dwarfs serve up Supper, which is as frugal as the Din­ner, for it is either a Pheasant Hen made into a Ragou, or some Pastry bus'ness, which burns the Mouth, it is so excessively pepper'd. The Lady drinks her belly full of Water, and the Gentleman very sparingly of the Wine, and when Supper is ended, each goes to sleep as well as they can.

The unmarry'd, or those who observe but few rules with their Wives, after they have been taking the Air in the Prado, where in Summer they go half naked in their Coaches; I mean when 'tis dark they get a light Supper, mount their Horses, and take a Foot-man behind them, they do this that they may not lose him; for going in the darkest Night through so many Streets very quick, how should a Foot-man be able to turn and wind, and follow his Master? But they are also afraid of being assault­ed behind, the Footman having no other care than to look a­bout him, is as it were the Sentinel, and is ready to defend his Master. There may be some which will do this, but most of them in such cases run away, for they are not stout. This no­cturnal Ramble is upon the Ladies account, they then visit them, and to gain an Empire, they would not neglest that op­portunity. They talk to them through the Lattice of their Windows, sometimes they go into their Gardens, and when they can into their Chambers. Their Passion is so violent, that they'll look the greatest danger in the face; they'll go to the very place where the Husband sleeps, and I have been told that they'll see one another years together, without daring to speak one word, for fear of being heard. They are ignorant in France what 'tis to love at the rate these People are said to love. And not to mention the cares, the earnest desires, the nicety, and the devoting of themselves up even to death, (for the Husband and the Relations give no quarter) that which I admire, is their Fidelity and Secresie. It is never known, that a Cavallero boasts of having receiv'd Favours from a Lady; they speak of their Mistresses with so much respect and value, as if they were their Sovereigns. And on the other hand, these Ladies never desire to oblige any other than their Gallants, they are entirely taken up with him; and although they cannot see him in the day-time, yet they have opportunity to employ several hours [Page 236] about him, either in writing to, or speaking of him with some she Friend who is privy to the Intreague; or else in waiting all the day long, and looking through their Lattices to see him go by. In a word, upon all that I have been told about these Mat­ters, I can easily believe, that Love had its Birth in Spain.

Whilst the Cavalleros are with their Mistresses, their Foot­men look after their Horses at some distance from the House; but there are very often unpleasant Mischances happen to them, for there being no necessary places in their Houses, all night long they throw that out of their Windows, which decency hinders me from naming to you; so that the amorous Spaniard which goes silently along the Street, is many times in a nasty condition from head to foot; and though at his coming out he was curiously perfum'd, yet he is forc'd to return as fast as he can to change his Cloths. This is one of the greatest Inconve­niencies in this City, and which renders it so stinking and filthy, that in the Morning one can hardly pass along the Streets. I say in the Morning, for the Air is here so subtile and hot, that all this nastiness is consum'd before Noon. When a Horse, or any other Animal dies, they throw him into the Street where he happens to be, though it were before the Pallace-Gate, and the next day you'll find him reduc'd to dust. They are persuaded, that if they did not throw out their Filth and Carrion in this manner into their Streets, Madrid would not be long without the Plague, and it never is there.

But besides those ways I have now mention'd, that Gallants have to see their Mistresses, they have yet others; for the La­dies visit one another frequently, and there is nothing more easie for them than to wear a Vail, and by the back door go in­to a Chair, and be carry'd where they will: And this is the more practicable, because all the Women agree to keep one anothers Secrets inviolably, let there be what Differences there will a­mongst them, and let them never be so angry one against ano­ther, yet they never open their lips to make the least Discove­ry; their Discretion cannot be sufficiently prais'd: It is true in­deed, the consequences would be more fatal if they did other­wise, since they make nothing here of murthering upon a bare Suspicion.

After this manner, the L [...]ies make their Visits to one ano­ther; you must not go to see your Friend when you have a mind, you must tarry till you are desir'd to come, and the Lady that has a mind to be visited, writes a Letter in the Morning, and invites you, you are carry'd in a Chair which is extream [...] every way, and that they may be the lighter, they are [Page 237] made only of a thin stuff hung upon a wooden frame, these stuffs are always mixt with Gold and Silver, and are very rich; they have in them three great Glasses, and the top is made of a very thin Leather, lin'd as the rest, and it opens upwards that so one may go in and out more conveniently; to every Chair there's four Bearers, which relieve one another, and a Footman carries the Hat of the foremost; for let it be what Weather it will, he must not be cover'd before his Mistress. The Lady is set as fast in her Chair, as a Diamond-stone in a Ring; she ei­ther wears no Mantle or Vail then, or if she does, it has a black English Lace set on it, half an Ell deep very fine and dear; this is becoming enough: she has also a Coach with four Mules in those long Traces I have formerly mentioned, which follows softly after the Chair, that is commonly fill'd with old Gentle­men-Ushers, and five or six Pages; for every body has these, my Banker's Wife has two. The Ladies never take any of their Women with them; and though several of them are going the same place, yet they each of them take a Chair to themselves, and do not go together in any one of their Coaches. I hap­pen'd t'other day, to be in a stop there was in a Street, and there came by me fifty Chairs, and as many Coaches one after ano­ther, they came out of the Dutchess De Frias, and went to the Dutchess D' Ʋzeda's House, I'll tell you why they went thither, when I have first told you that when the Lady is come to her House whom she goes to visit, the Chairmen carry her as far as the Anti-chamber, the Stairs are made purposely very wide and low, for the greater ease, assoon as she is set down, she sends away all her People and her Coach, and appoints them what hour to come and fetch her home, which is usually between ten and eleven a Clock, for their Visits are long enough to tire the greatest Patience.

There never comes any Men where they are met, a jealous Husband would have little to do to seek his Wife among them; he would be laught at, and they would not vouchsafe to give him any other Satisfaction, than telling him, That she is where he is not. The good Women are cunning enough, and they make use of this liberty; for you must know that every House has its back doors, by which they can steal out, and never be seen. Be­sides this, every one has a Brother at her Sisters, a Son at her Mothers, or a Nephew at her Aunts, and this is another pretence they make use of to see their Lover. Love in this Country is very ingenious, nothing is neglected to gratifie their Passion, and the Mistress meets with Fidelity; there are Intrigues that last one's Life, and yet there has not been an hours time loss to [Page 238] accomplish them, all Opportunities are improv'd, and there needs no more after seeing and liking one another.

I was some days ago at the Marchioness D' Alcannizas, she's one of the greatest and most vertuous Ladies of the Court; dis­coursing of these things, she very freely said to us, I must needs confess, that if a Cavallero should be convenienly alone with me half an hour, and did not ask me all that a Man could ask, I should resent it so briskly, that I would stab him if I could. And would you grant him all the Favours he might ask you, interrupted the Mar­chioness De Liche, who is young and handsome? That does not follow, replied my Lady D' Alcannizas, on the contrary, I have reason to believe, that I should grant him nothing at all; but then I could not reproach him with any thing, whereas if he made no attempt upon me, I should conclude he despised me. There are few, I believe, but what are of the same opinion in this matter.

There's one thing I find very odd, and not to look well, me­thinks in a Catholick Kingdom, and that is, The tollerating of Men, that keep Mistresses so openly, without the least disguise; it is very true that they are forbid by the Laws, but they value not the Laws, and only obey their own Inclinations, and yet no body offers to call them to account, or to reprove them in the least. These Mistresses are called Amancebades; though a Man is mar­ried, yet he must have one of these Creatures, and often the na­tural Children are brought up with the legitimate in the sight of the poor Wife, who patiently bears all this without so much as speaking a word. It is very seldom one hears of any Differences between Husband and Wife, and yet seldomer, that they separate as in France. Of an infinite number of Persons that I know here, I have only seen the Princess Della Rocea, that does not live with her Husband, but in a Convent, the Courts of Justice are not much troubled here with domestick Quarrels.

It seems extraordinary to me that a Lady who loves, and is be­lov'd by a Cavallero, is not jealous of his Amancebada; she looks upon her as a second Wife, and believes she cannot stand in com­petition with her; so that a Man has his Wife, his Amancebade, and his Mistress, this last is generally a Person of Quality; 'tis she that is visited in the Night, and for whom they venture their Lives.

It happens sometimes that a Lady cover'd with her great plain Mantle or Vail, and not shewing any more of her Face than half an Eye, and being ordinarily drest, because she would not be known, and having no mind to take a Chair, walks afoot to the place of Rendezvous; either her being little us'd to walk, or ve­ry often, her manner and way distinguishes her: a Cavallero fol­lows, and begins to talk to her, uneasie to have such a Compani­on [Page 239] which it is hard to get rid of, she addresses her self to the first she meets, and without further discovery of her self, I conjure you, says she to him, to hinder this importunate Man to follow me any longer, his curiosity may injure my affairs; this Request a­mounts to a command with a brave Spaniard; he asks him against whom the Lady complains, why he will press upon her against her mind, and if he meets with an obstinate Person, the Sword must be drawn, and sometimes they kill each other, without knowing for whom they have so expos'd themselves. In the mean while, the Lady makes the best of her way, leaves them fighting together, and goes where she's expected; but the jest is, that very often this proves either to be the Husband or the Brother that asserts her Cause, and by defending her from the Pursuit of the inquisitive, gives her an Opportunity to enjoy the embraces of her Gallant.

Some time ago, a young Lady who dearly lov'd her Husband, being inform'd that he did not live so regularly as he should, dis­guis'd her self, put on her Vail, and standing in a Street he us'd often to pass through, she spy'd him and gave him an Opportu­nity to speak to her. After he had occosted her, she began to thou him; and 'tis commonly in this familiar way that the Wo­men in this Country make known their Inclinations. He made a Proposal to her, which she accepted, but upon condition that he should not be desirous either to see her or know who she was: he promised he would not, and so led her to a Friend of his; at their parting he assur'd her, that he thought himself the happiest of Men, and that Fortune had never been so kind to him before, and then gave her a very fine Ring, and begged her to keep it for his sake. I'll keep and love it dearly, and will meet thee here again when thou wilt, says she to him, for I had as good have thy Jewels as another. When she had ended these words, she open­ed her Vail, and the Husband seeing 'twas his Wife, was in the greatest confusion imaginable at his Adventure; but he consi­dered, that since she had so well contriv'd the matter as to get out of her House to watch him, she might also find a way to play him some other trick less pleasant; and therefore to be secure of her, he appointed two Duennas constantly to look after her, and they never after left her.

It happens also sometimes, that when a Man's House is not near the Place, where by chance he meets his Mistress, he goes without Ceremony into the next he comes at, whether he is ac­quainted there or no, he civilly intreats the Master to let him have a Room to himself, because he has now an Opportunity to dis­course with a Lady, which if he loses, he shall not have the like in a long time; this is enough to make the Master grant an Ac­commodation [Page 240] to the Gallant and his Mistress, and sometimes, I assure you, 'tis the very Wife of the Fool that goes away so kind­ly; in a word, they will venture strangely for an Opportunity of seeing each other, though but for a quarter of an hour.

I remember a French Lady, discoursing of a certain Man to one of her Friends, said, Shew me an amorous Man, and I'll shew you one ruin'd. This Maxim is verifi'd here, more than in any place in the World; a Lover or a Gallant has nothing that he can call his own. It is no matter whether she either sees, or has a real occasion for a thing, 'tis sufficient if she does but barely desire it, they are never deny'd any thing, and the manner of giving it, en­haunses their Liberality. I find them nothing near so amicable as our Frenchmen, but 'tis said they know how to love at a greater rate. Besides, their Behaviour is a thousand times more respect­ful, nay this extends so far, that when a Man, let him be of what Quality he will, presents any thing, or gives a Letter to a Lady, he kneels upon one knee, and he does the same, when he receives any thing from her hand.

I said I would tell you, why so many Ladies went to the Dut­chess of D' Ʋzeda's; she is very amiable, and Daughter to the Duke D' Ossone, her Husband has had a Quarrel with the Prince De Stillano, about a Lady which they both love; they drew their Swords, and 'tis like to be an ill business. The King has caus'd them to be arrested, that is, they are not made Prisoners, but he has confin'd them to their Houses; unless they privately go abroad in the Night to pursue their usual amorous Pleasures. And that which is strange, the poor Wife must not set her foot out of door as long as her Husband is under these Confinements, though it is almost constantly for some piece of Infidelity he is guilty of towards her. And it is the same also, if they be banisht, or sent to remain upon some of their own Estates in the Country, which frequently happens. In all the time of their Absence, their Wives keep house without so much as once going abroad. I have been told, that the Dutchess D' Ossone, was a Prisoner after this manner for above two Years; this is the Custom, but it makes ones Life very dull and tedious.

But 'tis not only the Spanish Ladies, who are so tir'd and uneasie here, the French find but little diversion: We are in a few days to go to Arranjues and Tolledo to kiss the Queen Mothers hand; I'll write you, dear Cousin, the particulars of that small Journey, and I wish with all my Soul I were in a condition to give you more es­sential marks of my Affection.

From Madrid this 25 of July, 1679.

LETTER XIII.

BY my last Letter, I told you, Dear Cousin, that we were to kiss the Queen Mother's Hand; I have had this Honour, but before I conduct you thither, give me leave to tell you of something else. I would not go from Madrid till I had seen the Entry of the Marquiss De Villars; he made it on Horse-back, which is the Custom here, and if a Man be handsom, it is very advantagious for him: when the Venetian Embassador made his, it was happy for him that he was not in his Coach; he had one that was worth twelve thousand Crowns, which in going from his House was overturn'd, and as it was in Winter, the Marée (which is that nasty black dirt that stands in great puddles in the Streets, and through which a Horse goes up to his Girts) so spoil'd the Velvet with a Gold ground, and the rich Embroidery it was set off with, that it could never serve again. I thought it strange that for such usual Sights as these Entrees are, the Ladies should all be in their Balconies, in their rich Apparel, and with the same earnestness, as if it was to see the greatest King upon earth; but they have so little liberty, that they are glad to embrace all Occasions to shew themselves; and as their Lovers and Gallants hardly ever speak to them, so they take care to place their Coaches as near their Mistresses Balco­ny, as they can, that so they may the more easily discourse with them by their Eyes and their Fingers; this is a Practice that is very useful to them for the understanding one anothers Minds, and they do it more readily than with their Voice, this silent Language seems to me very difficult unless one were long us'd to it; but they are early acquainted with it, and but two days since, I saw a Girl of about six years old and a Boy of the same Age, which understood by this way to tell one another a thousand pretty things. Don Frederick De Cordonna, who ob­served them as well as I, but understood them far better, ex­plained to me every thing they said; and if he did not add to the Discourse of these two Children, one must needs confess, that in this Country, they are born for Love and Courtship.

The Marchioness De Palacio, the Mother of Don Fernand de Tolleda, is one of my Kinswoman's best Friends; she has a fine House call'd Igarica, upon the Banks of Xarama, and though [Page 242] this Lady is now very old, yet she never was there, notwith­standing it is but eight leagues from Madrid. It is not lookt upon in this Country to be according to Grandeur to go visit their Lands, except they lie in some Principality or some City, and then they call them by the Name of their State. I chid this Lady for her Carelesness, and my Kinswoman engag'd her to make one in the Company of her Daughter Donna Mariguita, who is a little Woman, pale, fat and fair; these three Qualities are equally rare here, and she's admir'd by every body that sees her; the young Marchioness De la Rosa, would also be of our Company, her Husband, with Don Fernand de Tolleda, Don San­che, Sarmiento, and Esteve de Carvajal, went on Horseback; Don Frederick de Cardonna, would not have fail'd of being there too, had not the Archbishop of Burgos writ him to come to him in all haste: when he told it me, I desir'd him to go see the fair Marchioness De Los Rios alas Huelgas. I gave him a Letter for her, in which I taxt her with her silence, and desir'd to know particularly how all things went. We set forward in two Coaches the sixth of August, at ten a Clock at Night, in the fi­nest Weather that could be; the Heats were so excessive, that unless one would venture their Lives, it was impossible to tra­vel in the day-time; but the Nights are cool, and the Coaches are in the Summer all open; the sides of the Coach were turn­ed up quite round, with fine large Holland Curtains, trim'd with fine English Bone-lace, and ty'd with Knots of colour'd Ribbond, and as they often change them, they look very neat. We went so swift, that I was almost dead with fear least some­thing about our Coach should break; for it is certain, that we might have been all kill'd a hundred times over, before the Coachman would have known any thing of the matter. I fancy they run so, to make amends for their slow going in Madrid; for even the Foot-pace of the Mules is too quick there, because of the ill pavement, the holes, the dirt in Winer, and the dust in Summer, with which the Streets are extreamly troubled. The Marchioness De Palacios wore a little Hat, trim'd with Feathers, according to the mode of the Spanish Ladies when they go into the Country; and the Marchioness De la Rosa lookt very pretty in her short close-coat, strait sleeves, and her other Ornaments, upon sight of which, we cried out, that we thought her Muy Bizzarra, and Muy de Gala, that is, very gallant and very splen­did.

It was very odd methinks, that these Ladies should oblige us in three several Places upon the Road to alight out of our Coach, and hear the Marchioness de la Rosa's two Gentlemen [Page 243] play upon the Guittar, whom it seems they brought on pur­pose, and it was pretty comical to see these Blades gallop with their Guittars hanging behind their Backs. This ordinary con­sort of Musick was nevertheless ravishing to them, and they were extreamly charm'd with the pleasantness of the Country in so fine a Night. Indeed, I never saw Women so infinitely sa­tisfy'd. We arrived at Arranjues about five a Clock in the Morning, and I was amaz'd at its wonderful Situation; half a League on this side the Tagus we pass'd over a wodden Bridge, which is made to shut up; and after that we came into some Walks of Elme and Lyme Trees, which were so high, green and shady, that the heat of the Sun is never felt. It is an extraor­dinary thing to find so near Madrid, Trees so perfect in their kind, for the Soyl is very barren, and they will not grow there; but yet near Arranjues, one cannot perceive this defect I speak of, for all along the Walks, and near the Trees, there are lit­tle Pits and Trenches made, into which the Water of Tagus runs and moystens the roots of the Trees. These Avenues are so long, that when one is in the middle, one cannot see to the end of 'em. Several Alleys come into these, and every way make the perfect figure of a Star. People walk on the Banks of the Tagus and Xamara, which are two famous Rivers that environ the Island in which Arranjues stands, and which sup­plies it with Water, and extreamly contributes to its beautiful­ness. To speak truly, I never saw a more delightful place; I must confess the Gardens are too close, and several of their Al­leys too narrow, but yet it ravishes one to walk there; and at our coming into them, I fancy'd my self in some enchanted Palace. The Morning was cool, every where the Birds made a sweet Melody, and the Waters a pleasant murmuring noise, the Trees and Hedges were loaden with excellent Fruit, and the Parterres were cover'd with most odoriferent Flowers, and I enjoy'd all this in most pleasant Company. We had an Order from Don John to be lodg'd in the Castle, so that the Alcade receiv'd us with great Civility, and was very careful to shew us every thing that was the most remarkable. The Fountains are in that number, and there are so very many of them, that it is impossible to pass through an Alley, to go into an Arbor, or upon a Patere or Terrass without taking notice of five or six with brasen Statues, and marble Basins: The Spouts throw up their Water to a vast height, they are not fed from Springs, but from the Tagus. Amongst others, I'll give you an account of the Fountain of Diana; It stands upon an ascent, from whence it is seen at a great distance; the Goddess is in the midst, en­viron'd [Page 244] with Bucks, Does, and Dogs, and every one of them spouts out Water. A litttle lower is a circle of Myrrh, cut in several fashions, and little Cupids peeping out half way, and throw the Water against those Animals which stand about the Fountain. The Mountain of Parnassus raises up its head in the midst of a great Pond, with Apollo, the Muses, Pagassius's Horse, and a fall of Water which represents the River of Heli­con. Out of a Rock there issues out a thousand several Spouts of Water, some lanching out, others winding in and out like a Serpent upon the Surface of the Pond; some gliding gently, and others, either falling like Flowers in the Air, or else like Rain. The Fountain of Ganymedes is also very pretty, this beau­tiful Child sitting upon Jupiter's Eagle, seems frighted with its flight; the Bird sits on the top of a Pillar with its Wings spread; he throws out the Water by his Beak and his Tallons; the Fountain of Mars is near this: That of the Harpyes is fine, they are placed upon very high Marble Pillars; at the four cor­ners they throw out Water every way, they seem to have a mind to drown a little Youth who sits in the middle of the Fountain, picking a Thorn out of his Foot. But the most plea­sant of all is, the Fountain of Love; this little God seems to rise with his Body all full of Darts, from every one of which comes out a Spout of Water. The three Graces sit at the Feet of the God of Love; but that which is most extraordinary, is the Water which falls from four high Trees like Fountains, whose noise is very delighful and surprizing, it not being natural for Water to come out of Trees.

I should be afraid to tire you, did I undertake to tell you the vast number of Cataracts, Falls, and Fountains of Water which I have seen here, I will only in general assure you, that it is a Place worthy of the curiosity and attention of every body. At eight a Clock the Sun began to be too hot, and some went in­to the House, which comes far short of that Beauty it should have, justly to answer all the other things; and when the King goes there, those that attend him are so ill accommodated with Lodging, that either he must be contented to go there in all haste, and keep his Court a little, or else go as far as Tolleda; for there are only two bad Inns, and a very few private Houses. If we had not taken care before hand for Provisions, even to Bread, I am confident we had met with none, unless the Alcade would have given us some of his. And by the way, I'll inform you the difference there's between the Alcade and Alcalde, that so you may not confound them; the first signifies the Gover­nor of a Castle or Place, and the other a Serjeant. Although [Page 245] the most curious Pictures are at the Escurial, yet I found some excellent ones in the King's Appartment at Arranjues; it is fur­nisht according to the Season we are now in, that is to say, the Walls are all white, have only a Matt that is very fine and thin about three foot deep with some Looking-glasses and Pictures. In this Building there are divers little Courts, which takes from the grace of it. We eat our Breakfast all together, and they perswaded me to eat some of a Fruit they call Pimento, which is as long as one's finger, but as hot as Pepper, the least bit of which puts ones Mouth in a Flame, they let it lie steeping in Vinegar and Salt, to get out the Virtue: this Fruit is brought into Spain growing upon a Plant; and I never saw any of it in other Countrys where I have been. We had an Ollio, some Ragous made of cold Partridges with Oyl, Canary Wine, fat Pullets, and Pigeons which are excellent here, and also several sorts of Fruit, which was extraordinary fair. When this Repast, which was worth a Dinner, was ended, we went to Bed, and went not a walking till about seven a Clock in the Evening. The Charms of this Place were as new to me as if I had not seen them in the Morning, but particularly, I still admir'd the Situ­ation, which indeed ravishes, on what side soever one turns the Eyes. The King is there, with half a dozen of his Guards, in great safety, because there's no getting at him but over Bridges, which are all drawn up, and the Xamara, which in this Place, swells the Waters of Tagas, fortifies Arranjus. After we had walkt till ten a Clock at Night, we came back into a great Hall, pav'd with Marble, and supported with Pillars of the same. It was all enlightned with divers brancht Candlesticks, and Don Esteve de Carvajal had privately got thither several Musicians, which were a pleasant sort of a surprize to us, at least the Spa­nish Ladies and my Kinswoman were mightily delighted with them. For my part, I thought they sung too much in the Throat, and their Divisions and Shakes were so long, that they were tedious; not but that their Voices are good, but their manner of singing is not good, and generally the greatest part in Spain, do not sing as they do in France and Italy. When Supper was done, we went to the great Canal, where there's a small Gal­lion painted and gilt, we went aboard her, and tarry'd till two a Clock in the Morning, and then we set forward on our way to Tolleda.

I took notice when we came out of Arranjues, that the Ground was all Heath and Ling, and yet the Air was perfum'd with wild and mother Tyme, with which these Plains were all co­ver'd. They told me there were a great many Rabits, Stags, [Page 246] Does, and Fallow Deer, but it was not then their time to ap­pear. Our Conversation was for sometime general, and for two Leagues together from Arranjues, I did not speak one word to Don Fernand, thô he sat just close by me; But being willing to imploy the time, in thoroughly informing my self about all the Particulars of the cruel Inquisition, which he had promis'd to acquaint me with, I desir'd him to let me know something of it,

The Inquisition, says he, has not been known in Europe, but since the beginning of the Thirteenth Century. Before that time, the Bishops and Civil Magistrates, enquir'd after Here­ticks, and either condemn'd them to Banishment, or to the Forfeiture of their Goods and Estates, or else, to some other Penalties, which never almost extended to Death: But the vast number of Heresies which appear'd towards the end of the Twelfth Age, caus'd that Tribunal to be Establish'd: The Pope sent several Religious Persons to the Catholick Princes and Bi­shops, to exhort them, to take an extraordinary care, in the Extirpation of Heresies, and to bring obstinate Hereticks to punishments: and thus things continued till the Year 1250.

In the Year 1251. Innocent IV. Authoriz'd the Dominican Fryars with the assistance of the Bishops, to take Cognizance of these sort of Crimes. Clement the IV. confirm'd these Tribu­nals in the Year 1265. Afterward, there were several Courts erected in Italy, and in the Kingdoms which were dependants of the Crown of Arragon, till such time, that the Inquisition was establish'd in the Kingdoms of Castille, in the Reign of Fer­dinand and Isabel, and after that in Portugal, by King John the III. in the Year 1557.

To that time the Inquisitors had a limited Power, and it was often contested by the Bishops, to whom the Cognizance of Heritical Crimes belong'd. According to the Canons, it was contrary to the Rules of the Church, for Priests to sentence any Criminals to Death, much more for those Crimes, which the Civil Laws often punish'd, with far less severe Penalties: But ancient Right yielding to new Power, the Dominican Fryars by the Popes Bulls have been for these two Ages, in possession of this extraordinary Jurisdiction; from which the Bishops have been excluded, the Inquisitors now only wanted the Authority of the Prince, to enable them to execute their Sentences. Be­fore Isabella of Castille came to the Crown, the Dominican John de Torquemada, her Confessor, and afterward Cardinal, made her promise him to persecute all Infidels, and Hereticks, as soon as it should be in her Power to do so. She pervail'd over Fer­dinand [Page 247] her Husband to obtain, in the Year 1483. Bulls from Pope Sixtus the IV. to constitute an Inquisitor General, over the Kingdoms of Arragon and Valentia, for these two Kingdoms were his Fee held in Capite: and it is to be noted, that Fer­dinand dispos'd of the Places in his Estates, and Isabel of those that were in hers: but the Queen got this Place for Torquemada. Afterwards the Pope extended his Jurisdiction over all the States and Countries of the Catholick Kings, and then Ferdinand and Isabel establisht a Supream Council of the Inquisition, of which they made him President: It is compos'd of an Inquisitor-Gene­ral, (who is nominated by the King of Spain, and confirm'd by the Pope) of five Counsellors, whereof one is to be a Do­minican, by a Priviledge granted to this Order, in the Year 1616. by Philip the III. Of a Procurator, two Secretaries of the King's Chamber, two Secretaries of the Council, an Algua­zil Mayor, a Receiver, two Reporters, and two Qualificators. and Consulters. The Number of the Familiars and small Offi­cers is very great, because all that belong to the Inquisition be­ing not subject to or tryable by any other Jurisdiction, shelter themselves here from the ordinary Courts of Justice.

The Supream Council hath a full and sole Authority over the other Inquisitions, which cannot perform any Auto or Executi­on, without leave from the Great and General Inquisitor: The particular Inquisitors are those of Sevile, Tolleda, Grenada, Cordua, Cuenca, Vailladolid, Marcia, Derena, Logronno, St. James Saragossa, Valantia, Barcelona, Majorque, Sardaignia, Palermo, Canaries, Mexico, Cartagena, and Lima.

Every one of these Inquisitions is compos'd of three Inquisitors, three Secretaries, one Alguazil Mayor, and of three Receivers, Qualificators and Consulters.

All Persons that take any of these Employments upon them, are oblig'd to make out their Proofs De casa Limpia, that is, that their Family is not stain'd with any thing of Judaism, or Heresie, and that they are Catholicks from the beginning.

The Proceedings of this Tribunal are very unusual. A man is Arrested and lies in Prison, without knowing the Crime he is accus'd of, or the Witnesses which depose against him: He cannot come out thence, unless he will own the Fault, of which often he is not guilty, and which the desire of Liberty forces him to confess, for they do not put one to death for the first time; but then the Family is markt with Infamy, and this first Judgment makes the Persons uncapable of any Employment.

There's no confronting of Witnesses, nor any means for a Man to defend himself, because this Tribunal above all things [Page 248] affects an inviolable Secresy. It proceeds against all Hereticks, but chiefly against Judaizing Christians, and secret Mahume­tans, of whom the Expulsion of Jews and Moors by Ferdinand and Isabel, has fill'd all Spain.

The severity of this Court was so excessive, that the Inqui­sitor Torquemada try'd above a hundred thousand Persons, of which six thousand were condemn'd to be Burnt in the compass of fourteen Years.

It is pretended, that the sight of so many Criminals con­demn'd to so terrible a Death, without any regard either to their Sex or Quality confirms and keeps the People in the Ro­mish Religion, and that 'tis the Inquisitor alone, that has hindred the wickedest Heresies from spreading themselves in Spain, even in that time when all Europe besides was infected with them. For this reason, the Kings have given such Arbi­trary Authority to this Tribunal, which is call'd the Tribunal of the Holy Office.

The general Acts of the Inquisition, which by the greatest part of Europe, are lookt upon, only as a bare Execution of Criminals, amongst the Spaniards, are esteem'd a Religious Ce­remony by which his Catholick Majesty gives publick proofs of his Zeal for Religion. And therefore, are call'd by 'em Autos de Fé, or Acts of Faith; commonly they are perform'd either at the Accession of the Kings to the Crown, or at their coming to Age, that so they may be the more Authentick: The last was in the Year 1632. and there is one now making ready for the King's Marriage. As there has not been one of a long time, so there are great preparations making to render this as Solemn and as Magnificent as 'tis possible for those sorts of Ceremonies to be. One of the Counsellors of the Inquisition has already drawn a Project of it, which he has shew'd me: Here's the Con­tents of it.

In the great Place at Madrid, there shall be a Theater erected fifty Foot long; It shall be rais'd as high as the Balcony de­sign'd for the King, and no higher.

On the right-side of the King's Balcony, quite cross the Theater, there shall be rais'd an Amphitheater, of twenty five or thirty Steps, design'd for the Council of the Inquisition, and the other Councils of Spain, on the uppermost of which shall be placed the Chairs under a Canopy, for the General Inquisitor a great deal higher then the King's Balcony. On the left of the the Theater and the King's Balcony, there shall be another, Amphitheater as big as the first, upon which the Criminals shall be placed.

In the middle of the great Theater, there shall be rais'd a­nother very little one, on which shall be made two Cages, where the Criminals shall be kept while their Sentence is reading.

There shall be likewise placed upon the great Theater, three Chairs for the Readers of the Judgment and for the Preacher, before whom there shall be an Altar erected.

The Places for their Catholick Majesties shall be so order'd, that the Queen shall be on the left hand of the King, and on the right of the Queen-Mother. All the Queen's Ladies of Ho­nour, shall take up the rest of the length every way of the same Balcony; there shall be other Balconies prepar'd for the Ambassadors, and Lords and Ladies of the Court, and Scaffolds for the People.

The Ceremony shall begin by a Procession from St. Maries Church. A hundred Charcoal-men arm'd with Pikes and Muskets, shall march before, because they provide the Wood, which is to burn those that are condemn'd to the Fire. Next them shall follow the Dominicans with a white Cross carry'd be­fore them; the Duke de Medina Celi shall carry the Standard of the Inquisition according to a Priviledge that's Hereditary to his Family: This Standard is of red Damask, on one side of it, is represented a naked Sword, in a Crown of Lawrel, and on the other the Arms of Spain.

After that, shall be carry'd a green Cross, wrapt about with black Crape; and after it shall march several Grandees and o­ther Persons of Quality of the Inquisition, cover'd with Cloaks, that have black and white Crosses upon them, embroider'd with Gold-Thred. The March shall be brought up by fifty Halberdiers or Guards to the Inquisition, cloath'd in black and white, and commanded by the Marquis De Pouar, Hereditary Protector of the Inquisition of the Kingdom of Tolleda.

After the Procession has in this order past by the Pallais, it shall come to the great Place; the Standart and the green Cross shall be fixt upon the Altar, and the Dominicans only, shall remain upon the Theater, and spend part of the Night in Sing­ing Psalms, and as soon as day breaks, they shall celebrate se­veral Masses upon the Altar.

The King, the Queen and the Queen-Mother, and all the La­dies must be in their Balconies about seven a Clock in the Mor­ning; at eight, the Procession shall begin to march, as it did the day before, by the company of Charcoal-men, who shall place themselves on the left hand of the King's Balcony, the right shall be for his Guards. Afterwards, several Men shall [Page 250] bear certain Past-board Effigies as big as Life; some of them representing those that dy'd in Prison, whose Bones shall also be carry'd in Coffers with Flames painted round them, and the rest shall represent those who have escap'd, and who have been condemn'd for Contumacy: These Figures shall be placed at one end of the Theater. After that, their Sentance shall be read, and they shall be executed. But I should tell ye, added he, That the Supream Council of the Inquisition is more abso­lute than all the others: It is believ'd that the King himself has not Power to release those which shall be accus'd before it, be­cause this Tribunal acknowledges the Pope only to be above it, and that there has been a time, when upon some occasions the King's Power, was found too weak to contend with that of the Inquisition. Don Diego Sarmiento is Inquisitor General; He is a mighty honest and good Man; and is about threescore Years of age: The King nominates the President of the Inquisition, and his Holiness confirms him; But as for the Inquisitors, the President proposes them to the King, and after he has ap­prov'd of them, he then puts them in their Places.

This Tribunal takes Cognizance of every thing concerning the Faith, and it is absolutely invested both with the Pope's and and the King's Authority, theres no appealing from its Judg­ment; and the two and twenty Tribunals of the Inquisition, which are in all the Estates of Spain, and which depend upon this at Madrid, every Month render an Account to it, of their Finances, and Revenues, and every Year of their Causes and Criminals: But those of the Indies and the other distant Places, only give an Account at the end of every Year. As to the Places of these inferior Tribunals, they are fill'd by the General Inquisitors, with the Approbation of the Counsellors. It would be pretty difficult to be able precisely to reckon up the num­ber of the Officers, which belong to the Inquisition; for in Spain alone, there's above two and twenty thousand Familiars of the Holy Office. They are call'd by this Name, because they are as 'twere Spies, scatter'd up and down every where, which are continually giving true or false Informations to the Inquisi­tion, upon which those are seiz'd and taken up, which they accuse.

Whilst with the greatest Attention I was listening to Don Fernand, the Marchioness De Palacios interrupted us, to let us know that we were come near Tolleda, and that certain old Ruines of an ancient Castle which we saw upon our left hand, were those of an enchanted Palace. I seem'd to Don Fernand to doubt of what she affirm'd, upon which he said, you may [Page 251] think what you please; but certain it is, that there's for it a very ancient Tradition in this Country; and moreover, they pretend that there is a Cave shut up, and a Prophesie which threaten'd Spain with the greatest Miseries, when ever this Cave was open'd: Every body terrify'd with this threat, had no mind to draw upon themselves the sad Effects, so that this place did for several Ages remain very close. But Don-Rodrigue, the King, less credulous, or more curious, caus'd it to be o­pen'd, upon which there were heard most terrible Noises; e­very body thought that the very Elements themselves were go­ing into confusion, there was so violent a Tempest: This did not hinder him from going into it, where by light of several Elamboys, he saw the Figures of divers Men, whose Cloaths and Arms were very strange: There was one held a Copper Blade in his hand, and upon it was writ in Arabick, that the Time drew near, for the Dissolation of Spain, and that the Persons, whose Statues were there, would ere long come. I never was in any place, said I smiling, where they rely'd so much on fabulous Tales, as they do in Spain: Say rather, replied he, that there never was any Woman so incredulous as you; and in telling you this Story, I did not think I should alter your Judg­ment; But as much as one can be assur'd of a thing by the Testi­mony of Men, this Story is credible.

It was now light enough, very plainly to observe all the Charms of the Country. We past the Tagus over a very great and fine Bridge, of which I had heard, and a little after disco­ver'd Tolleda all surrounded with Hills and Rocks, which com­mand it; There are very neat Houses built amongst those Hills, design'd for the pleasure of Solitude: The Arch-bishop of Tolleda has one there, whether he goes often: The City stands upon the Rock, the unevenness of which in divers pla­ces contributes to make it high and low; the Streets are nar­row, ill pav'd and troublesome, which is the reason, that all the People of Quality go there, either in Chairs or Litters: And as we were in a Coach, we took up our Quarters in the Placa Mayor, because that is only the part to which one can pass with a Coach; as soon as we were arriv'd, we alight at the Hospital of Foira, which stands in the Suburbs, whose Building consists of three Sides, within which is a great square Court, and the Church makes up the fourth side, and there we heard Mass: This Hospital was built by an Arch-bishop of Tolleda, whose Monument and Statue in Marble are in the midst of the body of the Church: The Walls of the City were rebuilt by the Moors; on the Sides stands a great many little Towers, which hereto­fore [Page 252] serv'd to defend it; And it would be astrong Place, being almost encompast with the Tagus, and having extream deep Ditches, did not the adjacent Hills command it, from whence it were easie to batter it down. It was not eight a Clock when we got thither; and we would spend the rest of the Morning in seeing the Church, which as 'tis said, is the finest in Europe: The Spaniards call it Holy, whether 'tis upon the Account of the Relicks which are there, or for some other reason which they did not tell me, I know not: If it was as long and as high as 'tis broad, it would be much better. It is beautify'd with divers Chappels as big as Churches; they all shine with Gold and Paintings; the chief of which are those of the Virgin, St. James, St. Martin, Cardinal Sandoual and the Connestable De Luna. In the Quire, I saw a Niche, or hollow place, from whence 'tis pretended there issued out for several days together, a Spring of Water with which the Soldiers and Citizens quencht their thirst in the time they maintain'd the Sieges against the Moors, when they were half dead with thirst; For without digressing from my subject, I must tell you, that in the City there is not so much as a Well or a Spring, and that they fetch all their Water from the Tagus, which is so ve­ry troublesom, that one would wonder how Tolleda comes to be so full of People as 'tis. Near the entrance into the Church, there's a Marble Pillar, which they Reverence, because the Holy Virgin appear'd upon't to St. Alphonsus. It is encloas'd with an Iron Gate, and through a little Window they kiss it, and upon it is writ, Adoraebimus in loco ubi fleterunt pedes ejus. Be­tween every Canon's Seat there is a Marble Pillar, and the Sculpture of the Church is fine and curiously wrought. I was amaz'd when I saw the Treasury. There must be thirty Men to carry the Tabernacle upon Corpus Christi day. It is made of Sil­ver gilt, and there is exquisitely wrought upon't several Spires of Steeples, with abundance of Angels and Cherubins: within this, there's also another of Massy-gold, and such a vast quan­tity of precious Stones that their value is inestimable; the Chalacies, the Patins and the Pyxes are no less beautiful: In­deed, every thing shines there, with great Diamonds and Ori­ental Pearls; the Sun, where the Holy Sacrament is kept, the Crowns and Robes of the Virgin are the most splendid things, that I ever saw in my days. But indeed this Arch-bishoprick is so very rich, that it is but just every thing should be answer­able to it. I have told you, dear Cousin, that the Archbishop of Burgos inform'd me, that the Bishoprick of Tollada had three hundred and Fifty thousand Crowns a Year. I must now add, [Page 253] that the Revenue of the Church it self, is a Hundred thousand Crowns. Forty Canons, which have every one a thousand Crowns, the Grand Arch-deacon, Forty thousand, three Arch-deacons, the first of which has fifteen thousand, the second twelve thousand, and the third ten thousand, and the Dean ten thousand Crowns a Year.

There is besides, an infinite number of Chaplains, Clerks of the Chappel, and other Persons, to whom daily allowances are given.

There is the Chaplain Mayor of the Chappel de los Rios, who enjoys twelve thousand Crowns a year, and six others that are under him, have a thousand Crowns per Annum.

After we had spent a great deal of time in considering the fine things with which this Court was fill'd, we resolv'd to re­turn to our Inn, where we had left our Coach; and just when we were going away, there came to us an Almoner and a Gentleman that belong'd to Cardinal Porto Carrero, who sent them to complement us, and to assure us, that by no means we must lodge any where else than at the Arch-bishops Palace. They chiefly address'd themselves to the Marchioness de Palacios who was near a kin to him, and who earnestly desir'd us to go thi­ther: We excus'd our selves upon our being in such Disorder, not having slept that Night, and being in an undress: she or­der'd her Son to go to the Cardinal, and to beg him to accept our excuses. Don Fernand return'd in a moment, attended with abundance of Pages, some of which brought Umbrellos of Gold and Silver Brocado. He told us that his Eminence mightily desir'd we would go to his House, and that he had shew'd so much concern at our refusal, that indeed he had pro­mis'd to bring us; and thereupon he commanded them to bring Umbrellos to defend us from the Sun, and that they had water'd the place which we mere to cross from the Church to the Palace. And immediately we spy'd two Mules drawing a little Cart, in which there was a Tub full of Water; and we were told that as oft as the Cardinal was to come to the Church, it was the Custom to water the way.

The Arch-bishops Palace is very ancient and large, most rich­ly furnish'd, and every way suitable to the Person that posses­ses it. We were conducted into a very fine Appartment, where immediately they brought us Chocolate, and afterwards, all sorts of Fruits, Wine, Water and other Liquors cool'd with Ice. We were so sleepy, that after we had eat a little, we begg'd the Marchionness de Palacios to see the Cardinal, and to excuse us to him, if we defer'd giving our selves that honour, [Page 254] for that we were not able any longer to live without sleep. And indeed, the young Marchionness de la Rose, my Kinswo­man and my self, chose to go to bed, and in the Evening, we drest our selves to see the Queen-Mother. The Marchioness de Palacios, who had always been extreamly devoted to her, went to the Alcacar, which is the Name of the Castle, and made her a visit whilst we slept; so that she told her, she would give us Audience at eight a Clock in the Evening, and that was the first time I was drest according to the Spanish Mode.

I do not think there's a more troublesome dress; ones Shoul­ders must be so squeez'd, that it hurts one; there's no lifting up ones Arm, hardly can you get it into the Sleeve. I had on a Far­dingal of a dreadful bigness, (for one must wear that in the Queen's Presence) I know not what to do with my self with this strange Invention; there's no sitting down in it, and I believe if I should wear it all my Life, I should never be recon­cil'd to it. My Head was dreast after the Melene fashion, that is, the Hair all spread over the Neck, and ty'd at the end with some Non-pareil Ribbon, this is a great deal hotter than a Pa­latine; so that being now in the Month of August, and in Spain, you may easily guess how I pass away my time. But this being a ceremonial Dress of the Head, there was nothing to be omitted upon such an occasion; besides, I wore their Patins which are fitter to break ones Neck, than to walk with. When we were all in a Condition to appear, for my Kinswoman and my Daughter were both also drest after the Spanish fashion, we were led into a Chamber of State, where the Cardinal came to see us; his Name is Don Luis Porto Carrero, he may be about two and forty years old, he's very civil, is of a sweet complai­sant Temper, and hath well learnt the polite Breeding of the Court of Rome: He stay'd an hour with us, and afterwards there was serv'd up to us a very plentiful Meal; but every thing was so full of Amber, that I never tasted any Sawces so rich, and less pleasant. I fancy'd my self at this Table, like Tantalus, in the midst of Victuals, and yet starv'd with hunger, because I could not eat; for either all the Meat was perfum'd, or else full of Saffron, Garlick, Onion, Pepper and Spices: but with searching about, I found some Jellies and white Meats, which were admirable, and with which I sav'd my self harmless. There were also brought to Table a Ham of Bacon, which came from the Frontiers of Portugal, and which is better than either those they boast so much of at Bayonu, or those of Ments; but it was spread all over with certain little Comfits, which in France we call Non-pariel, the Sugar of which melted in the [Page 255] Fat; it was drawn full of Limon-peel, which abated much of its goodness. The Fruit was the best and the pleasantest thing one can see, for whole Trees with their Fruit were Iced over with Sugar after the Italian way; you'll easily believe the Trees were not very big. There were Orange Trees thus order'd, with little artificial Birds fastned in them. There were like­wise Cherry Trees, Rasberry and Goseberry Bushes, and others set in little Cases of Silver.

We did not sit long at Table, because the hour for seeing the Queen was near; we were carry'd thither in Chairs, though it is a pretty distance, and very much up Hill; for the Alcacar is built upon a Rock of a prodigious height, and the Prospect is admirable. Before the Gate there is a very wide Place, after­wards one comes into a Court an hundred and sixty foot long, and an hundred and thirty broad, adorn'd with two rows of Piazza's, ten rows of the Pillars which made the length, were all of one entire Stone; and the breadth had eight rows of Pil­lars, and this made a fine show. But that which pleases much better, is the Stair-case at the bottom of the Court, which is an hundred and thirty foot wide, like the Court. After one has gone up some steps it parts in two, and to speak the Truth, I believe 'tis one of the fairest in Europe. We went through a great Gallery, and vast Appartments, but met in them so few People, that it did not look as if one could have met with the Queen-Mother of Spain there; she was in a great Hall, whose Windows were all open, and which had a Prospect to the Val­leys, and the River. The Hangings, Cushions, Carpets and Ca­nopy were all of gray Cloth; the Queen was standing and lean­ing upon a Balcony, having in her hand a great pair of Beads. When she saw us, she turn'd towards us, and receiv'd us with a Countenance merry enough. We had the Honour to kiss her Hand, which is little, lean and white: She is very pale, her Complexion pure, her Face a little long and flat, her Looks are agreeable, and her Stature is of a middle size; she was drest as all the Widdows in Spain are, that is, like a Nun, without so much as one Hair appearing; and there are many, (though she's not of that number) that cause all their Hair to be cut off when they lose their Husbands, for a greater expression of their Grief. I observ'd that her Gown was tuck'd up quite round, that so it might be let down as it wears out; yet I do not be­lieve she practises this, but such is the fashion of the Country. She ask'd me how long I had been come from France, and I gave her an account; she enquir'd if they discours'd then of a Marriage between her Son and Mademoiselle d' Orleance, and [Page 256] I told her no; then she said she would show me her Picture which was drawn from that the King her Son had, and she bid one of her Ladies, who was an old Duenna, and very ugly, bring it. It was drawn in water Colours, in the bigness of ones hand, in a Box cover'd with black Sattin, and lin'd with green Velvet. Do you find, says she, that it is like her? I as­sur'd her that there were not any of her Features; for indeed it seem'd to squint, the Face was awry, and nothing could less resemble a Princess so perfect as Madamoiselle. She ask'd me whether she was more or else handsome than this Picture. I told her, that she was handsomer beyond comparison. The King my Son then, reply'd she, will be pleasantly cheated, for he believes this Picture is just like her, and no body can be better sa­tisfied than he is with her. For my part, her Eyes that look askew were troublesome to me; but to comfort my self, I consider'd that she had a great share of Wit, and divers other good Qualitles. Do not you remember, says she, to the Marchioness de Palacios, to have seen my Picture in the late King's Chamber? Yes, Madam, an­swer'd the Marchioness, and very well remember also, that as soon as we saw your Majesty, we all wondred extreamly, why the Pain­ter would do you so much wrong; that's what I would have said to you, reply'd she, for when I arriv'd here, and cast my Eyes upon that Picture which they said was made for me, I in vain try'd to believe it, but I could not do't. A little she Dwarf, but thick as a Tun, and no taller than a good big Mushroom, cloth'd all in Gold and Silver Brocade, with long Hair hanging dowh to her Feet, came in, and kneeling before the Queen, ask'd her if she would please to have Supper; upon which we offer'd to with­draw, but she told us, we might follow her, and she went into a Parlour all of Marble, she sat down to Table all alone, and we all stood round her. Her Maids of Honour, with the Camera Mayor, who look'd very sad, came to wait on her. I saw some of them, which methinks were very handsome; they talkt to the Marchioness de Palacios, and told her, that they were hor­ribly tyr'd with that sort of Life, and that they liv'd at Tolleda, as if they were in a Desart. These were called Damas de Pa­lecio, and they wear Patins; but for the little Menines, they wear Shooes quite flat; the Menines are Children of the highest Quality, and neither wear Cloak nor Sword.

There were several Dishes brought before the Queen, the first were Melons cool'd with Ice, and some Sallets and Milk, of which she eat plentifully before she touch'd any of the Flesh, which look'd ill enough. She does not want a Stomach, and she drank a little Wine pure, saying that was to digest her Fruit: [Page 257] When she call'd for Drink, the first Menin brought her Cup cover'd upon a Salver, and kneeling gave it to the Camarera, who also kneel'd when the Queen took it from her Hands; and on the other side, a Lady of the Palace presented upon Knee a Napkin to the Queen to wipe her Mouth with: She gave some dry'd Sweet-meats to Donna Mariguita de Palacios, and to my Daughter, in saying to them, they must not eat much of such things, because they spoyl'd the Teeth of young Girls. She ask'd me divers times, how the Most Christian Queen did, and how she diverted her self? She said, that she had lately sent her some Boxes of Amber Pastils, some Gloves, and some Cho­colate: She was above an hour and half at Table, speaking little, but seem'd merry enough. We desired to know her Commands for Madrid, whereupon she express'd a great deal of Kindness and Civility, and after that we took our leave of her. It cannot be deny'd, that this Queen has abundance of Understanding, as well as Courage and Vertue, to take as she does, so tedious a Banishment.

I must not forget to tell you, that the first Menine brings the Queens Patins and puts them on; this is so great an Honour in this Country, that they would not change it for the best place belonging to the Crown. When the Ladies of the Palace mar­ry, and with the Queens consent, she adds to their Portions fifty thousand Crowns, and commonly some Government or Vice-Royalty is given to their Husbands.

When we came back to the Cardinal's House, we found a Theater prepar'd in a mighty great Room, and abundance of Ladies on one side, and Cavalleros on the other; and that which seem'd pretty odd to me, was a Damask Curtain which was drawn all the length of the Room to the very Theater, and so hindred the Men and the Women from seeing one another: They only stay'd for us, to begin the Comedy of Pyramus and Thisbe; this was a new Play, but the worst that I have yet seen in Spain. Afterwards the Comedians danced very well, and the Diversion lasted till after two a Clock in the Morning.

There was given a stately Supper in a great Hall, where there were divers Tables; and when the Cardinal had placed us, he went back to the Cavalleros, who had the same things on their side as we had: There was an excellent Italian Con­sort of Musick, for his Eminence had brought with him Musi­cians from Rome, to whom he gave large Pensions. It was six a Clock in the Morning before we could retire to our Appart­ment; and as there were divers things for us yet to see, instead of going to bed; we went to the Placa Mayor, which they call [Page 258] Secodebet; the Houses which environ it are of Brick, and all uniform, with Balconies: It is of a round Figure, and has Pi­azzas about it, under which People walk, and this is a fine Place. We went back to the Castle to view it better and more leisurely; The Building is after the Gothick fashion, and very ancient; but there's something in't that looks so great, that I do not won­der that Charles V. had rather have liv'd there, than in any o­ther City under his Obedience. It contains in a square, four great Appartments with their several Wings and Pavillions; there's room enough conveniently to lodge the whole Court of a great King. We were shew'd a Machine that was very strange before it was broken; it was to draw up the Water from the Tagus, and to make it rise to the top of the Alcacar; the House where it stood is yet whole, though it be several Ages since it was built. There's above five hundred steps from it to the River side; when the Water was come into the Receiver, it ran by certain Channels into all parts of the City where there were Fountains: This was a mighty Conveniency, for now they are forced to draw their Water thirty fathom deep.

We went and heard Mass in the Church de Los Reys: It is fair and large, and all full of Oranges and Pomegranet Trees, Jassemin and Mirtles, that are very high; they are set in Cases, and are form'd into Walks up to the very high Altar, whose Or­naments are extraordinary rich, so that looking through all these green Boughs, and the Flowers of different Colours, upon the shining Gold, Silver, Embroidery, and great lighted Candles which adorn the Altar, it seems as if the Rays of the Sun play'd before your Eyes. There are also some Cages painted and gilt, and fill'd with Nightingales, Canary Birds and others, which make a charming noise. I should be very glad that in France they would imitate them in adorning our Churches. The Walls of this Church is all over cover'd on the outside with the Chains and Irons of the Captives which have been redeem'd out of Bar­bary. In this part of the Town I observ'd that most of the Houses had upon their Doors a square piece of Earthen Ware, upon which was set the Angelical Salutation in these words, Maria sue concebida sin peca lo original. I was told that these Houses belong'd to the Arch-bishop, and that none but those that work in Silk dwell in them, of which there are very many at Tolleda. The two stone Bridges cross the River are very high, broad and long: If they would but take a little pains with the Tagus, Boats might come up to the City, this would be a con­siderable Conveniency; but they are naturally too lazy, to con­sider that the Profit and Advantage of a work is to be prefer'd [Page 259] before the trouble of undertaking it. We also saw the Hospital of Los Linnos; that is of Foundlings, and the City-House which is near the Cathedral; and at last our Curiosity being satisfy'd, we came back to the Archiepiscopal Palace, and we went to Bed and laid till Night, when again we had another Feast as splendid as the former: His Eminence eat with us, and when we had return'd him all due thanks, we set forward towards the Castle of Ignarica: The Marquiss de Palacios, with all his Fa­mily, was there waiting for us; so that we were so obligingly receiv'd, that nothing can be added to the good Chear and to the Pleasure, with which we were entertain'd for six days, ei­ther in Fishing upon the River Xarama, of in Hunting, in Walk­ing, or in common Conversation: Every one was Emulous to appear good humour'd; and one may say, that when the Spa­niards go so far as to lay aside their Gravity, and know and love you, they contribute hugely to ease and recreate the Mind. They become sociable, obliging, earnest to please you, and the best Company in the World. This is what I have found in this little Journey I have made, of which I should not have given you so particular an Account; but yet I am perswaded, Dear Cousin, you desire it so, and that you set some value upon my Complai­sance.

From Madrid this 30th of August, 1679.

LETTER XIV.

THE Ceremony of Swearing to the Treaty of Peace con­cluded at Nimmiguen, between the Crawns of France and Spain, was perform'd here the last of August. I had a great desire to have seen what past then; but as Women are not to be present there, so the Connestable De Castille promis'd to get us into the King's Chamber, as soon as he should be gone into the great Hall, Madam Gueux the Danish Ambassador's Lady, and Madam De Chais, the Envoy of Holland's Lady, were there also. We went up at a grivate Pair of Stairs, where one of the Constable's Gentlemen waited to receive us, and we tarry'd for some time in a very fine Closet full of Spanish Books, well bound and very diverting: There amongst others, I found the Histo­ry of Don Quixot, the famous Knight of the Manca, in which [Page 260] the plainness and the subtilty of the Expression, the weight and strength of Proverbs, and that which the Spaniards call El pico, that is the smartness and nicety of a Language, appear'd quite otherwise, then the Translations which we have in French. I was so pleas'd in reading it, that I hardly thought of see­ing the Ceremony: It began as soon as the Marquis De Villars came, and through a Lattice-window which was open'd, we saw what past. The King placed himself at the end of the great Gilt-Hall, which is one of the most stately in the Palace; The Alcove was spread with a wonderful fine Carpet; the The Throne and the Canopy were embroider'd with Pearls, Diamonds, Rubies, Emeraulds and other precious Stones. Cardinal Portocarrero sat in a great Chair below the Alcove, on the right hand of the Throne; the Constable of Castille sat up­on a Stool; the French Ambassador was seated on the left hand of the Throne upon a Bench covered with Velvet, and the Grandees were placed near the Cardinal; when every body was seated according to their Quality, the King came in, and when he was in his Throne, the Cardinal, the Ambassador, and the Grandees set down and cover'd themselves. A Secretary read aloud, the Power which the most Christian King had sent to his Ambassador. After that, a little Table was brought and set before the King, with a Crucifix and a Book of the E­vangelists, and whilst he held his hand upon it, the Cardinal read the Oath, by which he swore to keep the Peace with France: There were some other little Ceremonies, but I did not mind them well enough to be able to give you an Account of 'em. A little after the King return'd to his Lodgings, but we were gone out of them before: We stay'd in the same Clo­set where we stopt at first: It was so near his Chamber, that we heard him say, that he was never so hot, and that he would put off his Collar: And indeed, the Sun does shine very hot in this Country: At my first coming hither, I was afflicted with a strange Meagrim, and could not imagine the cause of it; but my Kinswoman told me 'twas because I wore too much upon my Head, and that if I did not take care I might lose my sight so; I immediately threw off my Bonnets and my Cornets, and since that time I have never had any pain in my Head. For my part, I cannot believe that there is in any part of the World more serene Air than there's here: It is so pure, that you can­not perceive so much as one Cloud; and it is affirm'd to me, that even the Weather here in Winter, is like the finest Wea­ther in any other Country: That which is most dangerous here is, a certain Wind De Galiegue, which blows off the Mountains [Page 261] of the Mountains Gallicia: It is not violent, but 'tis so piercing, that it reaches the very Bones, and sometimes causes a Lameness in a Leg or an Arm, and often in half the Body, which lasts for ones life: It is more frequent in Summer than in Winter. Stran­gers take it for the Western Briezes, and are ravisht when they feel it, but experience convinces them of its Malignity. The Seasons in Spain are much more convenient and pleasant than either in France, England, Holland, or Germany; For hot to rec­kon that purity of Air, which cannot be imagin'd so fine as 'tis from the Month of September to the Month of June, it is not so cold, but one can make a shift without fire; and this is the reason, why there's no Chimneys in any of their Appartments, and that they make use only of Chafindishes. But 'tis a great Happiness that Wood being so scarce as 'tis in this Country, they have no occasion for't; It never freezes thicker than the thickness of two Crowns, and there falls little Snow. But the adjacent Mountains furnish Madrid with it all the Year round: The Months of June, July and August, are indeed excessive hot.

I was lately in a Company where all the Ladies were sadly frighted: One of 'em said, that she had received a Letter from Barcelona, which advis'd, that a Bell there, which was only rung upon some publick Calamity, or upon some occasion of the highest Consequence, had all alone rung several times: This Lady came from Barcelona, and she assur'd me, that when­ever any Misfortune and Misery is to befal Spain, or that any of the House of Austria is to die, this Bell rings; that for a quar­ter of an hour together the Clapper of the Bell moves with a strange quickness, and strikes in turning round: I would not believe it, neither do I yet: But all the Company confirm'd what she said: If it is a Lye, there were above twenty that con­spir'd with her in it. They began to think upon what, and on whom this unhappiness which by this sign is foretold was to fall; and as they are very Superstitious, the beautiful Marchio­ness De Liche, encreast their fears, by telling them, that Don John was very sick.

In their deep Mourning, they are attir'd like Fools, but chief­ly on the first days; for the Foot-men as well as the Masters have long Cloaks trailing, and instead of Hats, they wear a very high Past-board Cap cover'd with Crape; their Horses are all in black Trappings, and Houssings which cover their Heads and all their Bodies: Nothing looks uglier; their Coaches are so ill co­ver'd, that the Cloth which covers the Roof, hangs almost down to the Boots: No body that sees this doleful Equipage but would think, that some Corps is a carrying to be bury'd; the [Page 262] People of Quality wear their Cloaks of black Bays, very thin and rotten, the least thing tears it in pieces: And that Mourn­ing is most graceful, that is most ragged and tatter'd. I have seen some Cavelleros which tore their Cloaths on purpose; and I assure you, that through some of their Cloaths, you may see their Skin as ugly as 'tis to look on: For though their Children when they are young, are as white as Alablaster, and so pret­ty, that you wou'd take them for Angels, yet it must be grant­ed, that as they grow bigger, they alter very strangely; the heat of the Sun roasts them, the Air tans them, and 'tis easy to know a Spaniard from any other Nation: Their Features are nevertheless regular, but still there wants methinks our Air and Meen as well as our Skin and Complexion.

All the Scholars wear long Robes, with a little Border of Linnen about their Necks instead of a Collar; they are habitted very like the Jesuits; there's of 'em above thirty Years old; they are known to be Students yet by their Habits.

I fancy this City to look like a great Coup, in which they feed Poultry: For really, from the Level of the Street to the fourth Story, one can see nothing but Lattices whose holes are very small; and their very Balconies have 'em: There's always to be seen some of the poor confin'd Women standing behind them, to look upon Passengers, and when they dare, they open them, and with great delight shew themselves; there's not a Night passes without four or five hundred Consorts of Musick, in several parts of the Town; it's true they are at a moderate rate, and it is sufficient if a Gallant has only his Guittar or his Harp, and sometimes both joyn'd with a Voice hoarse enough to awake the most drowsy body, and afford 'em the pleasure of a Queen: If either they do not understand what is most excel­lent, or cannot obtain it, they are content with what they can get: I never saw any Virginals or Theorba's here.

In every Street, and at every corner House, there's an Image or Statue of our Lady dress'd after the Fashion of the Country; with a Pair of Beads in her Hands, and either a great Wax Candle or a Lamp burning before her: I have seen three or four in my Kinswoman's Stable, with other pieces of Devotion; for you must know, that every Groom will have his Oratory as well as his Master, though perhaps neither one nor t'other often pray there. When one Lady goes to visit another, if it be in the Night, four Pages comes to receive her with great Flam­boys of white Wax, and in the same manner conduct her out again, and while she's going into her Chair, they commonly kneel upon one Knee: This is something more splendid, than [Page 263] the small Wax Candles enclos'd in Links which are us'd in France.

Here are Houses on purpose for Women of lewd Lives, like the Madelonnettes at Paris: They use them very severely, and there is not a day passes that they are not whipt several times; in a certain time they are releas'd, but come out worse than they went in, what they suffer'd making them not a bit the better. They live almost altogether in a particular part of the Town, where vertuous Women never go, but if by chance any one does go that way, they run and pursue after her, as if she was their Enemy; and if it happens that they are the strongest, she is sure to be cruelly us'd; and for the Cavalleros, they run the Risque of being torn in pieces as oft as they pass that way; that is to say, who shall have 'em: One takes him by the Arm, ano­ther by the Legs, and a third by the Head, and if he grows angry, they altogether fall upon him and rob him, and even strip him of his Cloaths. My Kinswoman has a Page who was ignorant of the Tricks of these wretched Wenches, and went innocently through their Quarters, but they stript him as naked as common Thieves in a Wood could have done; and yet a Man must be content with this Treatment, For to whom shall he go for Restitution?

The Bell of Barcelona hath been but too true in its Progno­sticks, for Don John was the first of this Month brought down so very low with his sickness, that the Physicians despair'd of him, and he was advis'd to prepare himself for Death: He receiv'd the News with so much Tranquility and Resignation, as very much confirm'd the Belief that several Persons had before entertain'd, that he had taken some private disgust, which made him rather wish to die than live: The King came every moment into his Chamber, and spent several hours at his Bed-side, notwithstan­ding his earnest Prayers that he would not so expose himself to a Feaver: He receiv'd the Blessed Viaticum, made his Will, and writ a Letter to a Lady whose name I could not learn: He com­manded Don Antonio Ortis his chief Secretary to carry it with a little Box lockt, which I saw; it was made of China Wood, and light enough to make one think there was in't nothing but Let­ters and perhaps some Jewels; while he was so dangerously sick a Courrier arriv'd with the News of the King's Marriage with Mademoiselle; the Joy of which did not only fill the Palace, but all the City shew'd Expressions of it, for there were over the whole Town Artificial Fire-works and Illuminations for three Days together: The King could not contain himself, but run into Don John's Chamber, and although he was very drowsy and heavy to sleep, and wanted rest, yet he awak'd him to tell him [Page 264] that the Queen would quickly be here, and intreated him to think of nothing but being well again, that he might assist at her reception. Ah! Syre, answered the Prince to him, I shall never have that Satisfaction, I should be content to die, if I had had the Honour to have seen her once: The King fell a weeping, and told him, That seeing him in that Condition, was the only thing that di­sturb'd his Happiness. There was to have been a Bull-Feast, but the Prince's sickness has caus'd it to be put off, and the King would not have suffer'd any Fire-works in the Palace-Court, had not Don John, notwithstanding he had a violent pain in his Head, begg'd him to permit them. In fine, the 17th of this Month he dy'd extreamly regretted by some, and as little by o­thers. This is the fate both of Princes and Favourites, as well as of Persons that move in an ordinary Sphere; and as his Cre­dit was already declining, and the Courtiers now thought of no­thing else but the Queen-Mother's Return, and the Arrival of the new Queen, so it is a mighty strange thing to observe with what indifference the Sickness and Death of Don John was taken; they did not so much as talk on him the very next day; It seem'd as if he had never been in the World. Alas! Dear Cousin, does not this deserve a little to be reflected on? He govern'd all the Kingdoms of the King of Spain, his very name struck Terror, he caus'd the Queen-Mother to be banisht; he drove away Father Nitard, and Valenuela, who were both Favourites, he had for the most part a greater Court than the King: And yet four and twenty hours after he was dead, I believe I saw in different pla­ces fifty Persons of the highest Quality, which did not so much as speak one word of this poor Prince, notwithstanding divers of them had very great Obligations to him: And yet after all, he had very great personal Qualifications and Vertues: He was of a middle Stature, and a well shap'd body, his Features were regular, his Eyes black and lively, he had black Hair, a great deal of it, and very long: He was well bred, of a great Wit and Judgment, very generous, brave and beneficent, and had a Ca­pacity for the highest Affairs. He was not ignorant of any thing that was suitable to his Birth, nor of any of the Arts and Sci­ences. He both spoke and writ very well five several Languages, and understood more: He was perfectly well read in History; he could both make and play upon any Instrument as well as the best Master. He understood how to turn several things; he could forge Arms, and he delighted much in the Mathematicks; but being call'd to the management of the Government, he was oblig'd to take his Thoughts off all these Exercises. The face of things chang'd in a moment, his Eyes were scarce clos'd, [Page 265] before the King (mov'd only by his own kind and easie Nature for the Queen his Mother) run to Tolleda to see her, and to in­treat her to return; she consented to it with all the Joy she had to see the King. They wept not a little, while they embrac'd each other, and we saw 'em come back together. All the Per­sons of Quality went to meet their Majesties, and the People shew'd abundance of Joy. I should inlarge a great deal more upon this return, did I not intend to be very particular in the Memoirs I am writing.

Don John laid three days in his Bed of State, and in the same Cloaths which he had made to go meet the young Queen; after that he was carried to the Escurial: The Funeral had nothing of Greatness; the Officers of his House, with a very few Friends accompany'd him: He was laid in the little Vault near the Pan­theon, which is reserved solely for the Princes and Princesses of the Royal Blood; for there are none bury'd in the Pantheon, you must know, but Kings, and those Queens that have had Chil­dren; those that have had none, are bury'd in that particular Vault. In a few days we are to go to the Escurial, which will be when the King goes there; but he is so taken up with his young Queen, that he can think of nothing but going towards the Frontiers to meet her. In every place where I come, they are continually ringing it aloud in my Ears, that she'll quickly be Queen of two [...]d twenty Kingdoms. In all likelyhood there's eleven of them in the Indies; for I only know those of the old and new Castille, Arragon, Valentia, Navarre, Murcia, Grenada, Andalousia, Gallicia, Leon, and the Isles Majorques. In these Places there are some parts of them admirable, upon which it seems as if Heaven had a mind to spread abroad its most benign Influences. There are others again so barren, that there is nei­ther Corn, Herbs, Vines, Fruit, Meadows, nor Springs; and of these one may say, there's more than of the others. But gene­rally speaking, the Air there is good and wholsome. In certain parts the Heats are excessive, and in others the Cold and the Winds are insupportable, although 'tis in the same Season. There are a great many Rivers, but that which is pretty singular, is, that the biggest of them is not Navigable; particularly those of Tagus, Guadiana, Minchio, Duero, Guadalguiver, and that of E­bre; for either because of the Rocks, the falls of Water, the Gulphes, or the Turnings, Vessels cannot pass upon them, and this is one of the greatest Difficulties of Trade, and which most of all hinders those things from coming to Cities which there's need of; for if there was an easie Communication between them, those Places and Towns that want a great many Wares [Page 266] and Goods, might be supplyed from those that abound, and so every body might be furnish'd with necessary things at a reaso­nable price; whereas the Charges by Land-carriage being so high, one must want divers Conveniences, unless you are in a Condition to pay three times more for a thing than 'tis worth.

Amongst the several Cities which belong to the King of Spain, these are esteem'd, either for Beauty or Riches, viz. Madrid, Seville, Grenada, Valentia, Sarragousa, Tolleda, Vailladolid, Cor­doua, Salamancha, Cadiz, Naples, Milan, Messina, Palermo, Ca­gliari, Bruxelles, Antwerp, Gand, and Mons. There are a great many others which nevertheless are very considerable; and several of the Towns are as big as Cities; but there are not in them those multitudes of People, which are both the Riches and Strength of a King. And there are divers Reasons to be given why there is this defect. First, When King Ferdinand drove a­way the Moors out of Spain, and established the Inquisition, what through the Punishments they inflicted upon some Jews, and the banishing of others, there dy'd and went out of the Kingdom in a little while, above nine hundred thousand Persons; besides, the Indies draw away abundance; the Unfortunate go there to enrich themselves, and when they have done so, they remain to enjoy the fruit of their Labour, and the Pleasures of the Country. Again, Soldiers are rais'd in Spain, and sent away to Garison other Cities under the obedience [...]f the King; these Soldiers marry and settle in the Places where they happen to be, and never return to those from whence they came. Add to this, that the Spanish Woman bear but few Children; if they have three 'tis reckon'd abundance: and Strangers do not come to in­habit there, as in other parts of the World, because they are not lov'd there, and the Spaniards are naturally recatados, that is sin­gular, and reserv'd to themselves, and will not be communicative and open with other Nations, which they either envy or scorn: And thus having examin'd into all those means which help to depopulate the Country under his Catholick Majesty, one may rather wonder that there are so many People remaining.

There grows but little Corn in Castille, it is brought from Si­cily, France and Flanders; and indeed, how should it grow, un­less the Earth would produce it of it self, as the Land of Pro­mise did? The Spaniards are too idle to take pains to Till and improve it; for being the meanest Peasant is persuaded that he is Hidalgo, that is to say, a Gentleman, that in every little Fami­ly there's an Apocryphal History, compos'd within an hundred Years, which he leaves to the Children and Nephews of a Vil­lage as an Inheritance, in which fabulous History they are all [Page 267] made to descend from ancient Chivalry, whose Ancestors have done wonderful things; reciting that their Great Grandfathers, Don Pedro, and Don John, performed such and such Services to the Crown. I say, they having taking up these vain Conceits of themselves, no wonder if they will neither derogate from the Gravidad, nor Decendentia. At this rate do they talk, and they will more willingly endure Hunger, and all Severities of Life, than work (say they) like Mercinaries, which belongs only to Slaves. And thus Pride seconded by Sloth, hinder the most part of them to sow their Land, unless some Strangers come and help them to till their Ground, which by a special directi­on and guidance of Providence always happens; Strangers that are more labourious and worldly minded, being mov'd thither by the gain they find; so that you shall have a sorry Peasant sitting in his Chair reading of a mouldy Romance, whilst these Strangers are working for him, in order to carry away his Money.

There's no Oats to be seen, Hay is scarce, their Horses and Mules eat Barley in the Straw chopt small. The Hills and Mountains in these Kingdoms I speak of, are of such a prodi­gious height and length, that I do not believe there's the like in any other part of the World; one meets with some of an hun­dred Leagues in length, which joyn one to another in a con­tinu'd Chain, and which without Hyperbole, are higher than the Clouds, they are called Sierras, amongst which are reckon'd the Mountains of Pyrenea, Granada, Astura, Alcantara, Morena, Tol­leda, Doua, Molina and Albanera. These Hills render the way so very difficult, that no Waggons can pass, which obliges them to carry all upon Mules, who are so sure footed, that in two hundred Leagues continual travelling amongst Rocks, and great Flint Stones, they will not so much as once stumble.

I have been shew'd some of the Patents the King Grants, I never read so many Titles, I'll set 'em down here. He calls himself King of Spain, Castelle, Leon, Navarre, Arragon, Grenada, Tolleda, Valentia, Gallicia, Sevile, Murcia, Jaen, Hierusalem, Naples, Sicily, Majorque, Minorque and Sardignia, the East and West Indies, the Isles and Terra Forma of the great Ocean, Arch Duke of Austria, Duke of Burgundia, Bra­bant, Luxemburgh, Guelderland, Milan, Count of Hasburgh, Flanders, Tirol and Barcelona, Lord of Biscay and Molina, Marquess of the Holy Empire, Lord of Friezland, Salines, Ʋtrecht, Malines, Overissel and Groningen; and Grand Seignior of Asia and Africa. I have been told, that Francis I. laught at these, when he recriv'd a Letter from Charles V. stuft with [Page 268] such arrogant Titles, and in his Answer gave himself no o­ther Title than Citizen of Paris, and Lord of Gentilis.

They do not trouble their Heads to study much here, that little they do know bears them out, for with the help of their Wit and Grave looks, they seldom betray their ignorance by being at a loss about any matters; when they speak, they always seem to know more than they do; and when they are silent, you would think 'em wise enough to resolve the most knotty Questions. Nevertheless there are some famous Uni­versities in Spain, amongst which they reckon, Saragossa, Bar­celona, Salamanca, Alcala, Santiago, Grenada, Seville, Coim­bra, Terragona, Evora, Lisbon, Madrid, Murcia, Majorque, Tol­leda, Lerida, Valantia and Occa: There are but few famous Preachers; here and there you'll meet with some that are Pa­thetical: But indeed, let these Sermons be good or bad, the Spaniards that hear 'em will perpetually beat their breasts with an Extraordinary fervour, and even disturb the Preacher with the grievous Cry which their troubl'd Consciences make them utter. I am willing to believe that there are a few that have some compunction, but in my Conscience, I doubt far less than they make shew of: They never leave off their Swords, either when they go to Confession or the Sacrament; they say, they wear 'em to defend Religion; and in the Morning before they put them on, they kiss 'em and make the sign of the Cross with them; they pay an excessive Devotion to the Blessed Virgin, and put an extraordinary confidence in her; there's hardly any Man that does not wear a Scapular or some em­broider'd Image that hath toucht some of those that are held to be miraculous; and thô otherwise they do not lead lives very regular, yet they will not forbear praying to her with a trust, that 'tis she that must protect and save 'em from the greatest Evils; they are very charitable, not only upon the account of the Merits by Alms Deeds, but also by a natural Inclination they have to give, and a real pain they endure if either through Poverty, or for any other reason they are forc'd to refuse any thing that is askt them; they have also another good Quality, which is never to forsake their Friend in Sickness; their care and their concern is far greater in such a time, when doubtless the Presence as well as the Assistance of a Friend is most want­ed: So that Persons that do not see one another four times in a Year, yet are constant in their visit three or four time every day; when one is under any affliction, and that they can become useful to each other: But as soon as they are well, they resume the same way of living they us'd before they were sick.

Don Frederick de Cardonna, of whom I now talk to ye, Dear Cousin, as if he and you were well acquainted, is return'd; He hath brought me a Letter from the fair Marchioness De los Rios, who without doubt, is still one of the prettiest Women in the World, and who is not weary of her retirement, I also by him heard from the Arch-bishop of Burgos, whose Merits are uncommon; and he added, that he came back in the company of a Spanish Gentleman, who had told him some very wonder-things; amongst others, that every Spaniard who is born on Good Friday, whenever they go by or through any Church-yard, in which there has been any body burry'd that was murder'd, or if they pass through any place where a Murder has been committed, tlthô the Man who was kill'd has been taken away, yet for all that he appears to 'em all bloody, and in the same manner and condition he happen'd to be in when he was murder'd, and this too, whether they knew one another or no: This certainly is a very unpleasant thing to those it happens; but in requital they can cure the Plague with breathing upon the Party, and do not receive the Infection, althô they be with those that have the Plague upon them: Many People, said he, wondred that Philip the IV. held his head so high, and stair'd up with his eyes, the reason was, he was born on Good Friday, and when he was very young he had several Apperitions of of these Persons that had been murder'd; so that with the fright of 'em he had got a custom (very seldom) to hold down his head: But, said I to Don Frederick, Did he talk seriously, and as if these things were allow'd of every body without any doubt. And just at I was saying, that it would be worth while to en­quire of some creditable Person about these Matters; Don Fer­dinand de Tolleda came into my Chamber, and so he askt him, and he assur'd me, that he had frequently heard folks talk thus of these Matters, but yet he would not answer for the Truth. It is also said, continu'd he, that there are a certain People which can kill a mad Dod with breathing upon him, and that they have a Power to remain in the Fire without be­ing burnt; and yet I could never see any of 'em that car'd to trust themselves there: But they give this reason, that thô they could safely do it, yet there would be something of Vanity in it, by such peculiar Favours from Heaven to distinguish them­selves from other Men; and for my part, said I laughing, I am of Opinion these Men have more Prudence than Humility: They are afraid (as 'tis but reasonable) of the biting of the Dog, and the heat of the Furnace. I am altogher of, your mind, Madam, reply'd Don Frederick, I can give little Faith to things above nature.

I do not pretend to make you believe it, says Don Fer­nand, thô I must tell ye, I do not find any thing in this Matter more extraordinary than in a thousand Prodigies which we e­very day see. Do ye think, for instance, that you ought less to wonder at that Lake which is near Guadalajara in Anda­lousia, which foretells approaching Tempest, by most horrid bellowing and roaring, that is heard above twenty thousand Paces distance? and what do ye say of that other Lake which is found upon the very top of the Mountain Clavio, in the Comte of Roussillon near to Perpignan? It is extream deep; there's in't Fishes, both for bigness and shape that are monstrous; when a Stone is thrown into it, there are Vapours seen to come out with a mighty noise, and to ascend into the Air, and there convert into the Clouds, which produce most ter­rible Storms, accompany'd with Thunder, Lightning and Hail. Is it not likewise true, continu'd he, in addressing himself to Don Frederick, that near the Castle of Gracimanos, in a Cavern which is call'd Judea, not far from the Bridge Talayredas, there's a Spring whose Water freezes as it drops, and grows so hard, that it becomes a perfect Stone, which cannot easily be broken, and with which in that Country they build fine Houses? You have a good Stock of Examples, said Don Fre­derick, but if you will, I'll furnish ye with some others for your purpose. Do ye remember the Mountain of Monrayo in Arragon; If the sheep feed upon't before the sun rise they die, but if they are sick, and feed there after the Sun is up they are cur'd. I must not forget neither the Spring in the Isle of Ca­diz, which is dry when 'tis high Water, and runs when the Tide ebbs: You shall not be the only Person, said I, in inter­rupting him, that shall second Don Fernand in these sorts of Re­lations, I must tell him, that in the same Isle of Cadiz, there's a certain Plant which withers upon the first appearance of the Sun, and grows green again as soon as Night comes. Ah! pret­ty Plant, cries Don Fernand in Laughing, Well, I have enough now to be reveng'd for all the sport you have made at my Stories for this Hour together; I declare open War against you about this Plant, and if you do not send for one hither, I know what I'll believe: The facetious Humour of this Cavallero made us very pleasantly pass the Evening: but we were interrupted by my Kinswoman, who return'd out of the City, where she had spent some part of the day at her Lawyers, who was at the point of Death; he is very old, and a very knowing Man in his Profession: She told us, that all his Children stood round his Bed, and that the only thing which he recommended to 'em, was always to preserve a [Page 271] good stock of Gravity; and after he had blest them, says he to 'em, what greater good can I now wish you, my dear Chidren, than to lead your whole Lives at Madrid, and never to quit this Earthly Paradice, but for the Heavenly: This may shew con­tinu'd she, the strange Prepossession the Spaniards have for Madrid, and the Happiness they enjoy in that Court: For my part, said I, in interrupting her, I am perswaded there's a­bundance of Vanity in that fondness that they express for their own Nation, for certainly they have too much Sense not to know, that there are many other Countries far more agreeable: It is not true, said I, in addressing my self to Don Fernand, that thô you will not say as I say, that you have the same thoughts? what my thoughts are, said he in smiling, is no rule for other folks; I must tell ye, that since my return, I am upbraided by every body with being no longer a Spaniard: But certain it is, that People being so bewitcht with the Delights and Charms of Madrid, and not having power to forsake it in any season of the Year, no body has thought of building pretty Houses in the Country whither they might sometimes retire; so that all adja­cent parts about the City, which should be fill'd with delicious Gardens and splendid Seats look like so many little Deserts, and this is the reason also, why the City in Summer as well as in Win­ter, is equally crowded with People: Hereupon my Kinswoman said, she would have me to the Escurial, and that it was agreed on by the Marchionesses of Palacios and La Rosa, to go two days hence; the Lady your Mother, added she, in speaking to Don Fernand designs you to make one, and I indeed to secure Don Frederick, for another, they both declar'd, that with abun­dance of Joy, they would go this little Journey; and indeed, the next day we went to kiss Queen Mothers hand, and to know her commands for the Escurial: for you must know, 'tis the Custom, when one is to go out of Madrid, first to pay their re­spects to the Queen. But we had not seen her since her Return. she lookt merrier than she did at Tolleda, and told us, she did not think of coming back so soon to Madrid, and that now it seem'd, as if she had never been out of it. There was brought before her a Gyant-Woman that came from the Indies: as soon as she saw her, she caus'd her to be taken away, she was so af­frighted at her. Her Ladies would make this Colossus dance, who held in each hand two She Dwarfs that play'd upon the Castinets and the Biscay Drum, all this was ugly in the highest degree. My Kinswoman observ'd in the Queen Mothers Apartment; things which had been Don John's amongst others an admira­ble Pendulum Clock, all set with Diamonds, he made her in [Page 272] part, his Heir, in all likelyhood 'twas to testifie his regret for having troubled and vex'd her.

The Journey to the Escurial was perform'd with all imagina­ble Satisfaction, the desire of entertaining you with it, hindred me from sending you the Letter I begun before I went thither; the same Ladies that went to Arranjus and Tolleda, were very glad to embrace the Occasion of taking the Air a little in so fine a Season; and we went first to the Pardo, which is a Royal House, the Building like the rest in Spain is handsom enough, that is, it consists of a square of foul several Appartments separated by Gal­leries of Communication, which are supported with Pillars; the Forniture of it, is not indeed stately, but there are good Pictures, amongst others, those of the Kings of Spain, in odd sorts of Dres­ses.

We were shew'd a little Closet, which the late King us'd to call his Beloved, because in it he was wont sometimes to enter­tain himself with his Mistresses; this Prince who was seeming­ly so cold and grave, that he was hardly ever seen to laugh, was really the most amorous and the pleasantest of Men. There is a Garden well enough kept, and a Park of a considerable extent, whither the King frequently goes to hunt; we were afterwards at a Convent of the Capuchins, which stands on the top of a Hill; this is a Place of great Devotion, because of a Crucifix which it seems was taken from the true Cross, and which often works Miracles: After we had said our Prayers there, we de­scended on the other side of the Hill, to a certain Hermitage where there was a Recluse, that would neither see us, nor speak to us; but he threw a Ticket to us through his Grate, in which we found it writ, that he would recommend us to God. We were all extream weary, for we were forced to walk afoot up the Hill, and it was very hot Weather; we perceiv'd in the bottom of the Hill a very little Cottage by the side of a Brook, which runs amongst Willow Trees; we steer'd our Course that way, and when we were yet a great way off, we could see a Man and a Woman very well drest, rise up nimbly from the foot of a Tree where they were sett, and run into that Cottage and shut the Door as hastily as if they had taken us for thieves; but doubtless it was fear of being known, which made them avoid us; we went to the Place they had left; being sett on the Grass, we fell to eating some Fruit we brought with us; we were so nigh this little House, that they could easily see through their Win­dows what we were doing; there came out a very pretty Coun­try Lass, and with a Sea-Rush Basket addrest her self to us, and kneeling, begg'd some of the Fruit of our Collation for a Big-belly'd [Page 273] Woman, that would die if we refused her. Immediate­ly we sent her some of the fairest, and quickly after the same young Girl came again with a Gold Snuff-box, and told us the Senora of the Casita, that is the Lady of the little House, in­treated us to accept of some Snuff for an Acknowledgment of the Favour we had done her. It is the Fashion here to present Snuff when they have a mind to express their Friendship; we stay'd so long by the Water-side, that we resolved to go no further that the Carcuela, which is another of the King's Hou­ses, but not so handsom as the Pardo, and so neglected, that there's nothing worth commending, but the Waters; we were ill enough lodg'd there, though we laid in the very same Beds his Majesty did; and we were very lucky in taking along with us all Necessaries for Supper. After that we went into the Gardens, which are in bad Order, the Fountains run Day and Night, the Water there is so good and in such plenty, that for as little almost as one would desire, it might be made as plea­sant a Dwelling as any is in the World. But 'tis not the Custom in this Country, from the King to private Persons, to keep se­veral Country Houses in good Repair, they let them go to ruin, for want of some very small Reparations. Our Beds were so ill, that we were not loath to leave them early the next Morning to go to the Escurial. We went by Monareco, where the Woods begin, and a little further is the Park which belongs to the Con­vent of the Escurial: For in effect it is one which Philip the II. built among the Mountains, that so he might the more easily get the Stone which he needed, of which there is such a prodigious Quantity, that without seeing it, one cannot conceive it, and certainly it is one of the vastest Buildings we have in Europe: We went up to it through a very long Walk of Elm Trees, which are planted in four Rows, the great Gate is stately adorn'd with divers Marble Pillars rais'd one upon another, till they reach up to the Statue of St. Lawrence which stands on the top; the King's Arms are cut upon a certain Stone which is call'd the Thunder-Stone, and is brought from Arabia, the cutting of which cost threescore thousand Crowns. It is easie to believe, that having been at so considerable a Charge for a thing so little useful, they would not spare any Cost for others which might be necessary and contribute to the Beauty of the Place. It is a great Square Pile of Building; but beyond the Square there runs out a Length, which contains the Buildings of the En­trance, and are contriv'd to represent the Form of the Gridiron on which St. Lawrence (who is the Patron of the Monastry) suffer'd Martyrdom. It is built according to the Dorick Order, [Page 274] and very plain; the Square is divided in the middle, and one of those Divisions which looks upon the Order, opens it self both ways into four other lesser Squares, which are four Cloy­sters built also according to the Dorick Order, and who sees one of them, sees all the rest; the Building has nothing in it, either as to its Design or Architecture, that is extraordinary; that which is to be admir'd, is the Vastness of it, being Three hun­dred and eighty Paces in the Square; for besides those four Cloysters I have mentioned, the other Division of the Square, subdivided into two, makes two other Piles of Building, one of which is, the King's Quarters, and the other is the Colledge; for there are in it abundance of Pensioners, whom the King maintains to study: The Friars that live in it are Hieronomites; this Order is unknown in France, and it is abolisht in Italy, because a certain Hieronimite Fryar attempted at Milan the Life of St. Charles Borromeo: But he did not hurt him, though he shot at him, and the Bullets pierced his Pontifical Habit; but nevertheless this Order is here in great Esteem; there are three hundred Monks in the Convent of the Escurial; they live much after the same way of the Carthusians, they speak little, and pray much, and Women never come into their Church, but be­sides they ought to study and preach.

But there's another thing yet, which makes this Building con­siderable, and that is, the nature of the Stone of which it is built. It was taken out of the neighbouring Quarries; it is of a grayish colour; the sharpest Air and severest Weather makes no impression on't, it does not soil or grow dirty, but constant­ly preserves that colour it had when it was taken up. Philip II. was two and twenty years in building it, he enjoyed it thir­teen, and then dy'd in't. This Structure cost him six Millions of Gold. Philip IV. added the Pantheon to it, that is to say a Sepulchre, like the Pantheon at Rome, contriv'd under the great Altar of the Church, all of Marble, Jasper and Porphiry, in which there are six and twenty most stately Tombs inchased in the Walls; and one goes down into it by a pair of Stairs all of Jasper. I fancy'd my self descending into some of those en­chaunted places which our Romances and Books of Chevalry talk of. The Tabernacle, the Architecture of the Altar, the steps by which one ascends to it, the Pyx or Box in which the Host is kept, and made all of one single Agat, are so many Wonders. The Riches that are there, in precious Stones and Gold, is in­credible. One single Cupboard of Relicks (for there are four in the four Chappels of the Church) infinitely exceeds the Trea­sure of St. Mark's at Venice. The Ornaments of the Church [Page 275] are imbroider'd with Pearls and precious Stones; and so are the Chalices and Vessels of precious Stones. The Candlesticks and the Lamps are of pure Gold. There are forty little Chappels, and as many Altars, upon which are put every day forty several Cloaths and Attires. The forepart of the great Altar is com­pos'd of four Ranks of Jasper Pillars, and one goes up to the Altar by seventeen Steps of Porphiry Stone. The Tabernacle is beautify'd with several Pillars of Agat, and divers curious Figures of Metal and Chrystal. One can see nothing about the Tabernacle but Gold, Azur Stone, and other Stones so transpa­rent, that through them the Sacrament (which is kept in an A­gat Vessel) is easily perceiv'd. This Tabernacle is esteem'd at a Million of Crowns. There are eight pair of Organs, the Chairs or Seats in the Quire are made of rare Wood, which comes from the Indies, curiously wrought after the pattern of those of St. Dominick at Boulogne. The Cloysters of the Monastery are ex­tream fine; in the middle there's a Flower Garden, and a Chap­pel which opens four ways, whose Roof is supported with Por­phiry Pillars, between which there are Niches, in which are pla­ced the four Evangelists with an Angel, and the several Crea­tures made of white Marble bigger than Nature, who throw out Torrents of Water into Marble Basins. The Chappel is arch'd with curious Architecture, and pav'd with black and white Mar­ble. There are divers Pictures of an inestimable value, and in the Chapter-Room, which is very large, there is besides most excellent Pictures, two Bass-Reliefs all of Agat, two foot and a half long, which cannot be valued. As to the Church, it has nothing extraordinary in its Structure; it is bigger than that of the Jesuits in St. Anthony's Street at Paris, but of the same form, except that like their House, it is of the Dorick Order. Bra­manto the famous Italian Architect, drew the Model and De­sign of it. The King and Queen's Appartments are not stately; but Philip II. intended this only for a House of Prayer and Re­tirement, the Church and the Library were the things he took most care to adorn. Titian the famous Painter, and divers o­thers besides, have exhausted all their Art and Skill in curiously painting the Galleries of the Library, which indeed are admira­ble, not only for the excellent Painting, but for a hundred thou­sand Volumes that are there, without reckoning the Original Manuscripts of several Fathers and Doctors of the Church, which are delicately bound and gilt. You'll easily guess at the bigness of the Escurial, when I have told you that there are in it, seven­teen Cloysters, two and twenty Courts, eleven thousand Win­dows, above eight hundred Pillars, and an infinite number of [Page 276] Parlours, Halls and Chambers. A little after the Death of Phi­lip II. there was taken from the Fryars of the Escurial, a certain Estate in Lands (call'd Campillo) which the late King had given them; and was worth eighteen thousand Crowns per Annum, and this was done by virtue of a Clause in his Will, by which he revok'd all the immense Donations, which is his Life time he had given.

The Duke of Bragance being at Court in King Philip the Se­cond's time, he had a mind they should go with him to the Escurial, that he might see that stately Pile of Building. And as he that had the care of shewing it to him, told him, It was built in performance of a Vow which Philip II. made at the Battel of St. Quintin, the Duke reply'd, He that made so great a Vow, must needs have a great Terror upon him. And now in mentioning this King, I remember to have heard, that Charles V. recommended to him the preservation of the three Keys of Spain. These were, the Streights-mouth, Flushing in Zealand, and Cadiz. The Turks or Moors have the first, the Dutch the second, and the English had the last, but the King of Spain soon recover'd it from them.

The Escurial is built upon a descent of some Rocks in a de­sert and barren Place, and environ'd with Hills; the Village stands below it, and has but few Houses in't; it's in a manner always cold Weather there. The extent of the Gardens and the Park is a prodigious thing to see, in which one meets with Woods, Plains, and a vast House in the midst, in which the Keepers lodge; it abounds with all sorts of Deer and Fowl.

After having seen a Place which so highly deserves our admi­ration, we all left it; and as we had visited the Royal Houses of Pardo and Carcuela, we return'd over the Mountains, which is a nearer way, but very troublesome. We came by Colmenar, and coasting along the little River of Guadarama, we past through Rozas and Aravac [...], and arriv'd at Madrid, where we learnt that the Queen's Houshold were just going away to meet her upon the Frontier. We immediately went to the Palace to bid adiew to the Dutchess de Terra Nova, and the other Ladies. The King had made them all be mounted, that he might see after what manner they would be on the day of her Entry; for this reason all the Gardens, and Doors every way were kept close shut and guarded, and no Man was to enter there. The young Court Ladies lookt well enough, but good God! what figures were the Dutchess de Terra Nova, and Donna Maria d' Alarcon, who were the Governantes of the Queen's Maids; they rid every one upon a Mule shod with Silver, and all friz'd [Page 277] with a large housing of black Velvet, like that the Physicians in Paris ride with upon their Horses. These Ladies, drest like Widdows, (which I have already describ'd to you) very old and ugly, with morose and imperious Looks, wore broad Hats, ty'd with strings under their Chins; and twenty Gentlemen which walkt a foot by their sides, held them up, lest they should fall. They would never have suffer'd these Men to have touch'd them in that manner, had not they fear'd breaking their Necks. For you must know, dear Cousin, that though every Lady has two Gentlemen Ushers, and that they go with them where ever they go, yet they never give them their Hand. They walk by their sides, and present to them their Elbows wrapt in their Cloaks, which makes their Arms look monstrous thick. The Ladies do not come near them; but that which is yet more strange, if the Queen in walking should happen to fall, unless her Ladies were near her to help her up, though there were an hundred Gentlemen there, she must be pleas'd, either to rise by her self, or lie all day upon the Ground, for none dare take her up.

We spent part of the Afternoon in looking at these Ladies; the Equipage they had was indeed very rich, but very poorly and dully contriv'd. The Dutchess of Terra Nova had alone, six Litters of Velvet of various colours, and all embroider'd, and forty Mules, whose houssings were as costly as ever I saw any. You will not hear from me again, dear Cousin, before the Queen is come hither. While the King is gone to meet her, and the whole Court is absent, my Kinswoman will go into Andalousia, about some business she has there. I might send you a short Relation of our little Journey, if I could be assur'd it would please you. I most heartily embrace you.

From Madrid this 30th of September, 1679.

LETTER XV.

THE whole Court is return'd, and in my Memoirs you'll find, dear Cousin, the particulars of the Queen's Journey. The King and she were both together in one Coach, and the Curtains being all open, I saw her at her arrival here: She was drest af­ter [Page 278] the Spanish way, and I did not think that she lookt less hand­some in this, than in her French Garbe; but the King was drest a-la-Schomberg, which is the Spanish habit for the Country, and 'tis almost like the French. I have heard it told, how strangely the Queen was surpris'd the first time she had the Honour to see him; he had on a close body'd Coat of grey Barragon, very short and wide, Velvet Breeches, Stockings of Pelo, that is, raw Silk, which they work so very loose, that their Skin appears through them; this Silk is as small as a Hair, and though they be very strait, yet the King pulls them on at once, and so he'll tear some­times twenty pair one after another. He had also a very fine Cravat, which the Queen sent him, but it was ty'd a little too loose: His Hair was put behind his Ears, and he wore a grey Hat. All the Journey, which was very long, they sat close to each other in a large Coach, and seldom could understand one another but by some certain signs, for the King cannot speak a word of French, and the Queen could speak but very little Spa­nish. Upon their arrival at Madrid, they went to sing Te Deum at our Lady d' Atocha, attended by all the Persons of Quality, and a multitude of the People, that made the Air resound with Ac­clamations of Joy. Afterwards their Majesties went to Buen Retiro, because the Appartments in the Palace were not yet ready, and that the Queen was not to remain there till she had made her Entry. This time must needs have been very tedi­ous to her, for she saw no body but the Camerera Mayor and her Ladies. She's forc'd to lead a Life so much against her Incli­nations, that she has need of all that Discretion and Sweetness of Temper she's possess'd of to be able to endure it. She has not so much as the Liberty to see the French Ambassador; to be short, 'tis a perpetual Torment. All the Spanish Ladies love her dearly, and amongst themselves pitty her.

I was sometime ago at the Countess of Villambrosa's, and in a great deal of Company. The Marchioness de la Fuente came in there, and as they are extream superstitious in this Country, so she told them, like one affrighted, that being with the Queen, who looking her self in a great Glass, and laying her hand gent­ly upon't, it crackt from top to bottom; and that the Queen be­held it without being in the least mov'd, but even laught at the Consternation that all the Ladies about here were in, telling them, it betray'd a weakness of Mind to take such notice of things and Accidents as might proceed from natural Causes. They discours'd and argued a great while upon this matter, and with deep sighs said, that their Queen would not live long. [Page 279] She also told us, that the Queen was much more disturb'd at the incivility of the Camerera Mayor, who seeing some of her Hairs out of place on her Forehead, spit on her fingers to lay them smooth; upon which the Queen stay'd her Arm, telling her in a Majestick way, that the best Essence there, was not too good, and that taking her Handkerchief, she was a great while a cleaning that part of her Hair which this piece of Antiquity had so unhandsomly wet. It is no uncommon thing here, to wet ones head all over, the better to smooth and make the Hair shine, the first time my Head was drest after the Spanish Mode. one of my Relation's Women undertook this curious piece of work, she was no less than three hours tugging and pulling my Head, and finding that my Hair, which is naturally curling, would not comply, without saying a word to me, she dipt a great Spunge twice in a Bason of Water, and baptiz'd me so handsomly, that I was laid up with a Cold for a Month.

But to return to the Queen, it would draw pitty from one to see how this Camerera treats her; I am well assur'd, that she neither suffers her to have so much as a single Hair curl'd, nor to come near her Chamber Windows, nor to speak to any body; and yet the King loves the Queen with all his Heart, and for the most part eats with her, and that without Ceremony; so that very often when the Maids of Honour are laying the Cloth, the King and Queen will divert themselves in helping them, one will lay the Cloth, and t'other a Napkin: The Queen has her Meat drest after the French way, and the King his after the Spa­nish. He has a Woman Cook to dress all his Victuals, but the Queen endeavours to bring him to like the Ragous that are made for her, but he cannot abide them. But now you must not im­agin, that their Majesties are surrounded with their Courtiers when they are at Dinner, at the most, there's only some Ladies of the Pallace, a few Menins, but a great many Male and Fe­male Dwarfs.

The Queen made her Entry the 13th of January; after all the Passages and Avenues of the great Road which leads to Buen Retiro were stopt, and all Coaches forbid to come that way, there was a Triumphal Arch built, and the Queen painted upon't. It was also cover'd with divers Garlands, and had several Em­blems and other things painted; it was set in the way by which the Queen must pass to go into Madrid; on each side there was a sort of a Gallery which had places contriv'd in them, to shew the Arms of the several Kingdoms under the Spanish Dominion, joyning one to another, by certain Pillars which supported some gilt Statues, every one of which represented Crowns and In­scriptions [Page 280] which had relation to those Kingdoms.

This Gallery reach'd to the Triumphal Gate on the great Road, which was very rich and adorn'd with several Statues; where likewise there were four beautiful and young Maids drest like Nymphs waiting for the Queen, and holding in their hands Baskets of Flowers, ready to strow them on the Ground as she past; hardly was one out of this Gate or Arch but a second ap­pear'd, and so for a great way one after another was seen. These were adorn'd with the King's Council, that of the Inquisition, the Council of the Indies, of Arragon, of State, of Italy, of Flan­ders, and other Places, under so many gilt Statues; that of Justice was higher rais'd then all the rest. A little further was represented the Golden Age, accompany'd with the Law, Re­wards, Protection and Punishments. The Temple of Faith was exhibited in a Picture, Honour and Fidelity open'd the Gate, and Joy came forth to receive the new Queen. There was besides, a Picture which shew'd the Reception Solomon gave the Queen of Sheba, and another where Deborah was giving of Laws to her People. There were also the Statues of Ceres, Astrea, Ʋnion, Vertue, Life, Safety, Time, the Earth, Tranquility, Peace, Great­ness, Rest Themis, and Liberality. Amongst all the Paintings I took notice of, that where Aeneas is descending into Hell; Cerberus chain'd by the Sybile, the Elysian Fields, where An­chises shew'd his Son who should succeed him in his Posterity. The rest were fill'd with an infinite number of Hierogliphicks. The Queen stopt at the third Arch, which was over against a very fine Parterre in her way; in it were falls of Water, Grot­tas, Fountains and white Marble Statues. Nothing could be more pleasant than this Garden: It belong'd to the Fryars of St. Francis of Paulo, who built it. The fourth Gate was in the middle of the Place call'd Del Sol; it was not less glorious than the others by the Gold, Pictures, Statues and Motto's about it.

The Street where the Furriers dwelt was all full of seeming A­nimals, though their Skins was so artificially stufft, that any Bo­dy would have taken them for liying Tygars, Lions, Bears, and Panthers. The fifth Gate, which was that of Guadalajara had its peculiar Ornaments, and after that, the Queen past in­to the Goldsmiths Street, the side of which, was set full of An­gels of pure Silver, there were seen also divers Bucklers of Gold, upon which were contriv'd the King and Queens Names with their Arms, in Pearls, Rubies, Diamonds, Emraulds, and other Stones so fine and rich, that the Skilful said, there was to the value of above twelve Millions. In the Placa Mayor there was an Amphitheater set full of Statues, and adorn'd with Paint­ings. [Page 281] The last Gate was near that, in the middle of the first Front of the Queen Mothers Pallace, was seen Apollo, all the Muses, the Picture of the King and Queen on Horseback, and divers other things which I did not mind so much to give you an Account of them. The Pallace Court was surrounded with young Men and Maids, which represented all the Rivers both great and small of Spain, they were Crowned with Reeds and Wa­ter lillies, with Pots overturn'd, and the rest of their Attire suita­ble. They complimented the Queen in Latin and Spanish, there were also erected in this Court, two Castles of artificial Fire­works. All the Pallace was hung with the richest Tapistry that belong'd to the Crown, and there are but few Places in the World where there is finer seen, two Chariots full of Mus­cians went before their Majesties.

The Magistrates of the City came out of their Publick House in their Robes which were made of Brocado embroider'd with Gold; they wore little Hatts buttoned up with Plumes of Fea­thers, and were mounted upon very fine Horses, they came to present the Keys of the City to the Queen and to receive her under a Canopy. The King and the Queen Mother went in a Coach all open that the People might see them, as far as the Countess of Ognates House, where the Queen came to them.

Six Trumpeters in black and red Suites in company of the City Kettle Drums mounted upon fine Horses, whose Housings were of black Velvet, march'd before the Alcade of the Court, the Knights of the three Malitary Orders, namely, St. James, Calatrava, and Alcantara followed after in Cloaks all embroid­er'd with Gold, and their Hatts covered with Plumes of Fea­thers; after them went the Tutulados De Castille, and the Of­ficers of the King's Houshold, they wore white Robes, and most of them were Grandees of Spain, their Hatts were trim'd with Diamonds and Pearl, and their Magnificence appear'd every way; they had most admirable Horses, every one had abun­dance of Liveries, and their Footmens Suits were of Gold and Silver Brocado mixt with colour'd Silk, which lookt very well.

The Queen rid upon a curious Horse of Andalousia, which the Marquis De Villa Mayna, her first Gentleman Usher, led by the Reins, her Cloaths ware so richly embroider'd, that one could see no Stuff, she wore a Hat trim'd with a Plume of Fea­thers, and the Pearl call'd the Peregrina, which is as big as a small Pear, and of an inestimable Value, her Hair hung loose upon her Shoulders, and upon her Forehead, her neck was a little bare and she wore a small Fardingal, she had upon her [Page 282] Finger the large Diamond of the King's, which is pretended to be the fairest in Europe. But the Queens pretty Looks and her Charms shin'd much brighter than all the sparkling Jewels with which she was adorn'd; behind her and without the Canopy, went the Dutchess De Terranova drest in Duenna together with Donna Laura Maria D' Alarcon Governante of the Queens Maids; they rid each of them upon a Mule. Immediately af­ter them the Queens Maids to the number of eight all cover'd with Diamonds and Embroidery, appear'd upon very fine Horses, every one having two of the Court walking by their side; the Queens Coaches went after them, and the Guards of the Lancilla brought up the Rear. She stopt before the Coun­tess of Ognate's House, to salute the King and the Queen Mother; she alighted at St. Maries, where Cardinal Portocarero Arch­bishop of Tolleda, waited for her, and immediately Te Deum began, as soon as it was ended, she mounted her Horse again, and rid to the Pallace, where she was receiv'd by the King and Queen Mother, the King help't her off her Horse, and the Queen Mother taking her by the Hand, led her to her Apartment, where all the Ladies were waiting for her, and fell on their Knees in all Humility to kiss her Hand. While I am upon this Head of the Pallace, I should tell you, Dear Cousin, that I have heard there are certain Laws or Rules establisht in the Pallace, which have been observed there for above these hund­red Years without the least Devotion, they are call'd the Orders or Ceremonials of the Pallace; they run thus, That the Queen of Spain shall go to Bed at Ten a Clock in Summer, and nine in Winter. At the Queens first being here, she did not consi­der the appointed Hour, it seemed to her Reasonable that the Rule of going to Bed, should be when one was sleepy; but it frequently hapned, that as she was eating her Supper, some of her Women, without saying a Word to her, would begin to undress her Head, and others to pull off her Shoes under the Table, and so hurry her to Bed with that haste, as made her very much wonder.

The King of Spain sleeps in one Apartment, and the Queen in another, but this loves his Queen too well to lie from her. It is thus noted in the Orders, That when the King comes out of his own Chamber in the Night to go into the Queens, He must wear his Shoes like Slippers, (for here they make none of these last,) his black Cloak upon his Shoulders instead of a Night-Gown, (of which no body makes use at Madrid) his Bro­quel, or Bucklar (of which I have spoken in some of my Let­ters) fastned under his Arm, and his Bottle fastned by a [Page 283] String to the other: But you must not think this Bottle holds drink to quench thirst, it is for a quite contrary purpose, which you must guess. With all this Accoutrement, the King has besides a long Rapier in one Hand, and a dark Lanthorn in t'other; and on this manner he is obliged to go all alone into the Queens Chamber.

There's another Order in the Ceremonial, which is, That af­ter the King has taken a Mistress, and happens to forsake her, she must be a Nun, as I have already told you. I have heard that the late King being in Love with a Lady of the Pallace, he knockt one Night softly at her Chamber Door, as she imagin'd it was he, so she would not open it, and only said to him through the Door, Baya, Baya, con Dios, no quiero ser Monja; that is to say, Go, go, God be with you, I have no mind to be a Nun.

It is also set down, that the King every time he receives a Favour from his Mistress must give her four Pistols, you per­ceive he will not ruin his Estate thus, and that the Expence he is at for his Pleasure is very moderate. To this purpose it is publickly known, that Philip the IV. the Father of the present King, having heard of the Beauty of a famous Courtezan, went to see her at her House; but being a religious Observer of the Or­ders, he gave her but four Pistols, she was very angry at so dis­proportionate a Recompense to her Merit, but dissembling her Displeasure, she drest her self like a Cavallero and went to see the King, and after she had made her self known, and had had a most particular Audience of him, she pull'd out a Purse of four hundred Pistols, and laid it up on the Table: It is thus, said she, I pay my Mistresses; so pretending that this time the King was her Mistress, seeing she came in Man's Clothes to find him out.

By these Ceremonials, the fixt Time of the King's going to any of his Houses of Pleasure is known, whether it be to the Escurial, to Aranjues, or to Buen Retiro, so that without stay­ing for his Orders, all his Equipage is sent away, and early in the Morning they go to awake him that he may rise and put on those Cloathes that are set down in the Orders according to the Season, and after that he steps into his great Coach, and so ve­ry contentedly goes, where several Ages past it has been a­greed on.

When the appointed time comes to return, though the King is never so well pleas'd where he is, yet he must go away, that he may not alter the Custom.

It is also known, when he is to go to Confession, and to per­form his Devotions, at that Time the Confessor comes, and pre­sents himself.

Every Courtier, and even the Embassadors are oblig'd when they go into the King's Chamber to put on certain little Lawn Cuffs, which they wear quite flat upon their sleeves, there are Shops in the Guard-room, where the Lords hire them, and re­turn them when they come out. In like manner all the Ladies are to wear Patins when they go into the Queens pre­sence, I think I have already told you that these are a kind of Sandals into which the Shoe is fastned, and which raises them up very high, if they should appear before the Queen without these Sandals, she would take it very ill.

The Queens of Spain have none but Widdows and Maids a­bout them, the Pallace is so full of them, that one can see no­thing else through the Latices and in the Balconies. And here's one thing seems to me very singular, which is, That a Man al­though he be Married is allow'd to declare himself the Lover or Gallant of a Lady of the Pallace, and for her sake to commit all the Follies and to spend all the Money he can, without being in the least blam'd for it. One shall see these Gallants in the Court, and all the Ladies in the Windows, where 'tis their dai­ly Employment to discourse with, and entertain one another by their Fingers: For you must know that their Hands speak a Language that is perfectly intelligible; and as it might be guest at if it was always alike, and that the same Signs always meant the same things, so they agree with their Mistresses upon certain private Signs and Actions, which no Body else under­stands. This kind of Love is publick, a Man must be of a pe­culiar sort of Wit and Humour dextrously to manage these In­trigues and to be accepted by the Ladies, for they are wonder­ful delicate and nice, they do not talk like other People. In the Pallace there reigns a certain Genius and Strain of Wit, quite different from that in the City, and so peculiar, that one must learn it as they do an Art or a Trade. When the Queen goes abroad, all, or however the greatest part of the Ladies go with her; then the Gallants, who are constantly upon the Watch, go a foot by their Coach sides, that they may enjoy their Conversation. It is really good Sport to see how these poor Lovers dirty themselves, for the Streets are horrid nasty; but then, the more dirty the more gallant. When the Queen returns home late, there are carried before the Coaches where her Ladies are, forty or fifty Flamboys of white Wax; and this sometimes makes a very glorious Illumination; for there are several Coaches, and in every one divers Ladies, so that fre­quently, one may see a above a thousand Flamboys, besides those the Queen has.

When the Ladies of the Pallace are let Blood, the Chyrurge­on takes a mighty care of the Ligature, Fillet, or any Cloth or Handkerchief upon which any of the Blood of the fair one is has fallen; for he never fails to make a rich Present of it to the Ca­vellero that loves her, and this is lookt upon to be a worthy Oc­casion for a Man to ruine himself to all intents; there have been some so extravagantly foolish, as to give the Chyrurgeon the greatest part of their Plate; you must not fancy this is only a Spoon, a Fork, or a Knife, which may be the Stock of a great many we know; No, no, I assure you, this extends to the va­lue of Three or four thousand Crowns; and this is a Custom so rooted amongst them, that a Man had rather feed upon no­thing but Radishes and Leeks all the Year long, than not to perform what he is oblig'd to do upon these sort of Occasions.

Few of the Ladies of the Palace leave it without being very advantagiously married; there are also the Queens Menines, who are so very Young when they come to her, that she has some not above six or seven Years old; these are Children of the highest Quality, I have seen some of them more beautiful than the God of Love himself was ever painted.

On some solemn Days, when the Ladies of the Pallace go a­broad, or when the Queen gives Audicnce, every Lady has the Priviledge to place by her sides two Cavelleros who put on their Hats before their Majesties, although they be not Grandees of Spain; they are call'd Embevecidos, that is, Drunk with Love, and so transported with their Passion, and the Pleasure of being near their Mistresses, that they are uncapable of minding any thing else, they are permitted to be cover'd for the same Reason that mad Men are, who understand not their Obligation to De­cency and good Manners; but yet to enjoy this Liberty, they must have leave from their Ladies, otherwise they dare not presume to attempt it.

There is no other Diversion at Court than Plays; but during the Carnaval, they empty Eggs by a little hole in the Shell, and fill them full of sweet scented Water, and then stop them up again with Wax, and when the King is at a Play, he throws these at every body, and every one in imita­tion of his Majesty throw them likewise at one another; this perfum'd Rain makes the Air very sweet, but withal wets People pretty handsomly, and this is one of their greatest Pastime's, there's hardly any body at this season but what carries a hun­dred of these Egg-shells, that are either fill'd with Orange-flow­er, or some other sweet scented Water, and as they go along in their Coaches throw them in Folks Faces: At this time the Peo­ple also please themselves after their fashion; for example, [Page 286] they'll break off the neck of a Bottle, and tye the part that is within the Wicker, to the Tail of a Dog, and sometimes you shall see above two thousand run after him.

The King's Dwarf is the prettiest that ever I saw, his Name is Lovisillo; he was born in Flanders, he is extream little, and exactly well proportion'd; he has a handsome Face, an admira­ble Complexion, and not only wittier than one can imagine, but withal very wise and knowing. When he goes to take the Air, there's a Groom to wait on him, who rides upon one Horse, and carries another before him, which is so very small, that he may properly be term'd a Dwarf Horse, and is as handsome for his kind as his Master is for his. This Horse is brought to the Place where Lovisillo is to mount him, for he would be almost tyr'd if he was to walk so far; and it is really a great pleasure to see the Dexterity of this little Animal and his Master, when he orders him like a manag'd Horse. I do assure you that when he is upon his Back, they do not both make above three quar­ters of an Ell in height. He said very seriously t'other day, that he would fight the Bull at the first Bull-Feast, for the sake of his Mistress Donna Elvire. This is a little Girl about seven or eight years of Age, but wonderful beautiful. The Queen commanded him to be her Gallant. It is a great Happiness for this Child that she is fallen into the Queen's hands. I'll tell you how it happen'd.

The Fathers of Mercy went to redeem a certain number of Slaves which they brought to Madrid: and according to their Custom of coming through the City in Procession, the Queen chanced to cast her Eyes upon a Captive Woman which led two little Girls by the hand; they seem'd to be Sisters, but there was this difference between them, that one was extream handsome, and the other as ugly. The Queen made her come to her, and ask'd her if she was the Mother of those two Children; she answered, that she was Mother only to the ugly one. And how came you by the other, said the Queen? Madam, reply'd the Woman, we were in a Vessel in which there was a great Lady big with Child, but we did not know who she was, only by her At­tendance, and the Richness of her Cloaths, it was easie to think she must be of Quality. After a long and sharp fight, we were taken, the greatest part of her People were kill'd; and she was so frighted, that she fell in Travail, and as soon as she was de­liver'd, dy'd. I was by her, and seeing this poor little Creature without a Nurse, and ready to perish, I resolv'd to nourish it up with my own, if 'twas possible. As soon as the Corsaires were Mast [...]rs of our Ship, they divided the booty amongst them­selves; [Page 287] they were in two Vessels, and so each took away with them the Lot that was fallen to them. Those remaining Women, and other Servants which belong'd to this Lady were on one side of the Vessel, and I on the other; so that, Madam, conti­nu'd the Woman, I was never able to learn what or who the Person was, whose Child I saved. I now look upon her as my own Daughter, and she believes I am her Mother. So charita­ble a Deed, says the Queen, shall not go unrewarded; I shall take care of you, and the little Incognito I will keep. And in­deed the Queen loves it so extreamly, that the Girl always wears very rich Cloaths. She follows her Majesty every where, and talks to her with that grace and freedom as sufficiently de­clares her to be of no mean Original. Perhaps time my disco­ver who she is.

Here are none of those solemn and pleasant Festivals which are at Versailles, when the Ladies have the Honour to eat with their Majesties. All is very reserv'd in this Court, and in my Opinion, nothing but a general and constant habit could pre­vent abundance of things from being extream tedious to them. Those Ladies which do not actually dwell at Court, never come to it, but when the Queen sends for them, and she is not allow'd to send for them often neither. She lives for the most part with­out any other Company than her Women, there was never any Life more melancholy than hers.

When she goes a hunting, (and you must know, that of all the Queens that have reign'd in Spain, she's the first that has had this Liberty,) and is come to the place appointed for mounting on Horseback, she must set her feet upon the Coach boot, and so throw her self upon her Horse. It is not long since she had one, that being a little shy and skittish, would start away as she leapt upon him, and so she had a most grievous fall. When the King is there, he assists her, but no body else dare come so near the Queens of Spain as to touch them and help them on Horseback; they had rather they should be hurt, and that their Lives should be expos'd to the greatest danger.

She has fourteen Matresses or Quilts upon her Bed; there's neither Flocks nor Feather-beds us'd here, these Quilts being made of Spanish Wool, which is the finest in the World; they are not above three fingers thick, so that her Bed is no higher than one of ours in France. They make these Matresses so thin that they may the more easily be turn'd and remov'd; and in­deed I have observ'd that they keep hollower, and are not near so hard.

It is the Custom in Madrid, for the Master or Mistresses of [Page 288] the House to go before those that come to see them; they think this is a piece of great Civility, to leave, say they, a Person in the possession of all that is in the Room. As to the Women they do not kiss one another in their Salutation, they only present their hand without Glove.

They have another Custom, which I think odd and peculiar e­nough, and that is, when a Daughter has a mind to be marry'd, and is the eldest, and has already made her choice, though both her Father and Mother are against the Match, she need only go to the Curate of the Parish and tell him the Matter, and the busi­ness is done. Immediately he takes her from her Parents House, and either puts her into a Convent, or to some devout Lady, where she remains for a little time; afterwards, if she perse­veres in her Resolution, the Father and Mother are obliged to give her a Portion suitable to her Quality and their Estate, and in spight of them she is marry'd. Partly upon this Account it is, that such care is taken to keep their Daughters close, and to let no body speak to them, and so to make it difficult for them to take any measures for the management of an Intreague. O­therwise, provided the Cavallero be a Gentleman, it is suffici­ent, and he may marry his Mistress, though she should prove to be the Daughter of a Grandee of Spain.

Since my being in this Country, I think I have not neglect­ed informing you of every thing; I will now proceed to finish my Memoirs of the Court of Spain, seeing those I first sent you please you so well. I shall send you the rest as fast as any thing happens and offers it self, that is worth your Curiosity and no­tice. I do also promise you to write you that Relation you de­sire of me. But for all these little Trifles, I must beg you, dear Cousin, to grant me something that is considerable, and that is, the Continuation of your Friendship, for which I have a just value.

From Madrid this 28th of September, 1681.