The Country-mans Rec …

The Country-mans Recreation, OR THE Art of Planting, Graffing, and Gardening, in three Books. The first declaring divers waies of Planting, and Graffing, and the best times of the Year, with divers Commodities and secrets herein, how to Set or Plant with the Root, and without the Root; to sow or set Pepins or Curnels, with the ordering thereof, also to cleanse your Grafts and Cions, to help barren and sick Trees, to kill Worms and Vermin, and to preserve and keep Fruit; how to plant and proin your Vines, and to gather and presse your Grape; to cleanse and Mosse your Trees, to make your Cider and Perry, with many other secret Practises which shall appear in the Table following. The second treateth of the Hop-Garden, with necessary Instructions for the making and the maintenance thereof, as also the Scituation, quantity, charge and benefit, preparation, time to cut and set, with Rules for the choice and prepa­ration of Roots, and also divers Instruments usefull for the Hop Garden: with some directions for Tabaco. Whereunto is added, The Expert Gardener, containing divers necessary and rare secrets belonging to that Art, with Directions to know the time and season to sow and plant all manner of Seeds; with divers new Inventions and Garden-knots, and also present Remedies to destroy Snailes, Canker-worms, Moths, Garden-fleas, Earth-worms, Moles, and all other Vermin, which commonly breed in Gardens: hereunto is likewise added the Art of ANGLING.

LONDON, Printed by T. Mabb, for William Shears, and are to be sold at the Signe of the Bible in St. Pauls Church-Yard, near the little North door 1654.

An Exhortation to the Planter and Graffer.

REgard alwayes, before ye doe intend to plant or graffe, it shall be meet to have good experience in things meet for this Art, as in knowing the natures of all fruits, and differences of Climates, which be contrary in e­very Land: also to understand the East and West windes, with Aspects and Stars, to the end ye may begin nothing that the Winde or Raine may oppresse, that your labour be not lost, and to marke also and consider the dispositions of the Ele­ments that present year; for all years be not of like operation, nor yet after one sort; the Summer and Winter doe not bear one face on the Earth, nor the Spring time alwayes rain, or Autumn alwaies moist: of this none have understanding, without a good and lively marking spirit; few or none without learning may discern of the varieties and qualities of the earth, and what he doth aske or refuse. Therefore it shall be good to have understanding of the Ground, where ye doe plant either Orchard or Garden with fruit, first it behoveth to make a sure Defence, to the end that not onely rude Persons and Children may be kept out, but all kinde of hurtfull Cattle endamaging your Plants or Trees, as Oxen, Kine, Calves, Horses, Hogs, and Sheep, as the rub­bing of sheep doth greatly burn the sap, and often doth kill young Trees and Plants, and where they are broken or bruised with Cat­tell, it is doubtfull to grow after. It shall be good also to Set, Plant, or Graffe Trees all of like nature and strength together, that the great and high Trees may not overcome the low and weake, for when they be not like of height, they grow not ripe, nor your fruit so well at one time, but the one before the other. That earth which is good for Vines, is good also for other fruit.

Ye must dig your holes a yeare before ye Plant, that the earth may be the better seasoned, mortified and wax t [...]nder, both by Rain in Winter, and [...]eat in Summer, that thereby your Plants may take root the sooner, if ye will make your holes, and plant both in a year: at the lest ye ought to make yo [...]r holes two moneths before ye plant, and as soon as they be made, then it shall be good to burn straw or such like therein, to make the [Page] ground warm. The further ye make them asunder, the better your trees shall bear. Make your holes like unto a furnace, that is, more straight in the mouth then beneath, whereby the roots may have the more room, and by straightnesse of the mouth, the lesse rain or cold shall enter by in Winter, and so lesse heat to the root in Summer.

Look also that the earth ye put to the roots, be neither wet nor la [...]d in water: they doe commonly leave a good space betwixt every tree for the hanging boughes, for being nigh together, ye cannot set roots, nor sow nothing so well under your trees, nor they wil not bear fruit so wel. S [...]me leave forty foot, some thirty between every Tree: your Plants ought to be greater than the handle of a shovel, & the lesser the better. See they be straight without knots or knobs, having a long straight grain o [...] bark, which shall the sooner be apt to take Graffes, and when ye set branches or boughes of old trees, choose the straightest branch thereof, and those Trees which have born yearly good fruit before, take of those which be on the Sunny side, sooner than those that grow in the cover or shadow; and when ye take up or alter your Plants, ye shall note to what your plant is subject, and so let them be set again, but those which have grown in dry grounds, let them be set in moist grounds, your Plants ought to be cut of three foot long. If ye will set two or three Plants to­gether in a hole, ye must take heed the root of one touch not another, for then the one will perish and rot the other, or dye by Worms or other Vermen, and when you have placed your Plants in the earth, it shall be good to strike down to the bottome of every hole, two short stakes as great as your arm, on either side your hole one, and let them appear but a little above the earth, that ye may thereby in Summer give water un­to the roots if need be. Your young Plants and rooted Trees are commonly set in Autumne, from the first unto the fifteenth of October, yet some think it better after Alhallontide untill Christmas, than in the Spring, because the earth will die too soon after, and also to set Plants without root after Michaelmasse, that they may be the better mollified and gather root against the Spring, whereof ye shall finde hereafter more at large. Thus much have I thought meet to declare unto the Planters, Graffers, and Gardeners, whereby they may the better a­void the [...]ccasions and dangers of Planting, Graffing, and Gardening, which may come often times through ignorance.

A Table of all the principall things contained in this Book.
Of the seven Chapters following.

CHAP. I. Treateth of the setting of Curnels, of Apple Treees, Plum Trees, Pear Trees, and Service Trees.
  • HOw to choose your Pepins at the first pressing.
  • Means to use the Earth to sow your Pepins on.
  • Seeing unto the Poultry for marring your beds, and how to weed or cleanse your beds or quarters.
  • Wilde Cions how to pluck them up.
CHAP. II. Treateth how to set your wilde Trees which come of Pepins, when they be first pluckt up.
  • WIlde Trees that come of Pepins how to dung them.
  • Principall Roots how to cut them in setting again.
  • Young Trees, how to set them in rank.
  • [Page]Spaces from one rank to another, and how to mak [...] them.
  • Plants being dry, how to water them.
  • Removing your trees, how to plant them again.
  • Removing, how to know the fittest time for it.
  • Negligence and forgetfulnesse, and the hurt of it.
  • Not so good to graffe the Service-tree, as to set him.
  • Some trees without Graffing have good fruit, and o­thers being graffed, have but evill fruit.
  • For to augment and multiply your trees.
  • The manner to change the fruit of the Pepin-tree.
  • How to make good Cyder.
  • To make an Orchard in few years.
CHAP. III. Is of setting of Trees which come of Nuts.
  • HOw to set trees that doe come of Nuts, and the time to plant or set them.
  • To set them in the Spring.
  • Dunging and deep digging thereof.
  • Stones and Nuts like the Trees they come of.
  • Planting the said Nuts.
  • Why fruit shall not have so good favour.
  • To set the Pine Tree.
  • To set Cherry Trees.
  • Trees of bastard or wilde Nuts.
  • To set Filberds and Hasell wands.
  • To set Damsons and Plum Trees.
  • To graffe Cions of Plums or the like.
  • To set all sorts of Cherry Trees.
  • How to order Plum Trees and Cherry Trees.
  • How to graffe Plum Trees and Cherry Trees.
  • How to proyn or cut Trees.
  • How to cleanse and dresse the roots of Trees.
  • To keep the stock being greater than the graffes.
  • [Page]The remedy when a bough is broken.
  • How to enlarge the hole about the roots.
  • To set small staves to stay your Cions.
  • What Tree to proine.
  • Why the sower Cherry dureth not so long as the great Helme Cherry.
  • To graffe one great Cherry with another.
  • Of deep setting or shallow.
CHAP. IV. Sheweth how to set other Trees of great Cions prickt in the earth without Roots, with the proyning of lesser Cions.
  • BRanches being prickt giving roots to Trees.
  • How to set them.
  • How to bind them that be weak.
  • How to digge the Earth to set them in.
  • Cions without Roots.
  • Planting of the Fig Tree.
  • Setting of Quinces.
  • Setting of Mulberry Trees.
  • Cutting time for Cions.
  • Setting Bush Trees, as Gooseberries and small Reisons.
  • A Note thereof.
CHAP. V. Treateth of foure manner of Graffings.
  • DIvers wayes of Graffing.
  • Graffing of all sorts of Trees.
  • [Page]Graffing of Apple trees, Pear trees, Quince trees, and Medlar trees.
  • Graffing of great Cherries.
  • Graffing Medlars on other Medlars.
  • Divers kindes of Graffes on one tree.
  • Graffing of the Fig tree.
  • Graffing the great Apricocks.
  • Graffing the Service tree.
  • Setting the Service tree.
  • Trees hard to graffe in the Shield.
  • How to see to Trees charged with fruit.
  • Cho [...]sing of trees to choose your Cions in.
  • Cions on the East part are best.
  • Choosing of your tree for Graffes.
  • To keep Graffes a long time.
  • To keep Graffes ere they bud.
  • How you ought to begin to graffe.
  • When is good Graffing the wilde Stocks.
  • To mark if the tree be forward or not.
  • When'ye Graffe, what to be furnished withal
  • Of Graffes not prospering the first year.
  • For to Graffe well and sure.
  • How to trim your Graffes.
  • How to cut Graffe for Cherries and Plums.
  • A Note of your incision.
  • To be heedfull in graffing least you raiseth
  • How to cut your stock.
  • If your wilde stock be great or slender.
  • Trees as great as a mans Arm.
  • Great trees as big as ones Leg.
  • The Graffes being pinched in the Stocks.
  • How you ought to cleave your stocks.
  • To graffe the branches of great trees.
  • How to cut great old branches.
  • How to bind your Graffs against winds.
  • To set many Graffes in one cleft.
  • [Page]To saw your stock before you leave him.
  • If the stock cleave too much, or the bark open.
  • How Graffes never lightly take.
  • How to set Graffes right in the stock.
  • Setting in of the graffes.
  • A note of the same.
  • How to draw forth the wedge.
  • How to cover your clifts on the head.
  • How ye ought to see well to the close binding up of your Graffes.
  • How ye ought to temper your clay.
  • How to bush your graffe-heads.
  • The second stay to graffe high Branches.
  • The third manner of Graffing, is betwixt the bark and the Tree.
  • Dressing t [...]e head, to place your Graffes betwixt the bark and the Tree.
  • Covering the head of your stock.
  • The manner of graffing in the Shield.
  • To graffe in summer, so long as the trees be leaved
  • Big Cions are best to graffe.
  • Manner to take off the Shield.
  • If your Scutchion or Shield be good or bad, how to know it.
  • Graffing on young Trees.
  • Setting or placing your Shield.
  • A Note on the same.
  • Raising up the bark to set the Shield on.
  • Binding on your Shield.
  • A tree will bear the graffing of two or three Shields
  • Unbinding time for your Shield.
  • Cutting the Branches grafted on Trees.
CHAP. VI. Is of transplanting or altering the Trees.
  • BEst to transplant or set them timely.
  • To plant or set towards the South.
  • Cutting the Branches before ye set.
  • Apple-trees commonly must be disbranched be­fore ye set them again.
  • All wilde stocks must be disbranched.
  • What Trees do love the Sun, & what the cold aire.
  • Many sorts and manner of Trees.
  • Planting or setting Trees at large.
  • Right ordering your Trees.
  • The best manner to enlarge the holes when you plant your Trees.
  • Dung and good Earth for your Trees.
  • If Worms be in the earth at your roots of Trees.
  • Digging the Earth well about the roots.
  • Nature of the places.
  • Goodnesse of the Earth.
  • With what ye ought to bind the trees.
CHAP. VII. Is of Medicining and keeping the Trees, when they are Planted & Set.
  • FIrst our counsel is, when your Trees are but Plants (in dry weather) they must be watered.
  • With what Dung ye ought to dung your Trees.
  • When ye ought in Summer to uncover your Trees.
  • When to cut or proin your Trees.
  • Cutting off great Branches, and when.
  • Leaving great Branches cut.
  • [Page]Great Branches, and of the Trees that bear them.
  • Barrennesse of Trees, of cutting ill branches, and uncovering the roots.
  • Which Trees ye must break, or pluck up the roots.
  • What doth make a good Nut.
  • Cattle eating and destroying trees, how to graft them again.
  • Wilde stocks ought not hastily to be removed.
  • When to cut naughty Cions from the head.
  • Sometime how to cut the principall members.
  • How to guide and govern the said Trees.
  • A kinde of Sicknesse in Trees.
  • Worms in the barks of Trees.
  • Snails, Ants, and Worms that marre trees.
  • How to take those strange creeping Worms.
  • Keeping Antes from the Trees.
  • A Note of ill ayres and weathers.
  • Defenc [...] from the Caterpiller.
Here followeth the Table of Graffing, strange and subtile wayes in using of Fruits and Trees.
  • GRaffing one Vine upon another.
  • To help a Tree long without fruit.
  • To have Peaches two months afore others.
  • To have Damsons unto Alhallontide.
  • To have Medlers, Cherries, and Peaches, in eating to taste like spice.
  • How to make a Muscadell taste.
  • To have Apples and Pears to come without blossoming.
  • To have Apples and Chesnuts rath, and long on the Trees to remain.
  • To have good Cherries unto Alhallontide.
  • To have rath Medlers two moneths before others.
  • [Page]To have Pears timely.
  • To have Misplers and Medlers without stones.
  • How to have other pears betimes.
  • Mulberries how to ripen them very soon and dure long.
  • Keeping of pears a year.
  • To have fruit tast half an Apple and half a pear.
  • Graffing time.
  • Graffing the Quine Apple.
  • A way to destroy Pismires or Ants about the Tree.
  • Another way of the same.
  • Nuts, Plums and Almonds how to have them grea­ter and fairer than others.
  • How to make an Oke or other Tree as green in Winter as in Summer.
  • Planting with roots and without roots.
  • Keeping fruit from the frost.
  • Choice dayes to plant and graffe.
  • Green Roses all the year.
  • Raisins or Grapes good an whole year.
  • Laxative fruit from the tree, how to make it.
  • A note for all planters and graffers.
Here followeth a Table of certain Dutch practises.
  • TO Graffe one Vine upon another.
  • Chosen dayes to Graffe in, and to choose Cions.
  • How to gather your Cions.
  • Of Worms in the Trees or fruit.
  • The setting of stones and the ordering thereof.
  • How to gather Gum of any tree.
  • To set a whole Apple.
  • The setting of Almonds.
  • The watering of Pepins.
  • To plant or set Vines.
  • To plant or set the Cherry tree.
  • [Page]To keep Cherries good a year.
  • Remedy against Pismires or Ants.
  • The setting of Chesnuts.
  • To make all stone-fruit tast as ye shall devise good.
  • The graffing of the Medlar or Misple.
  • The bearing of fruit of the Fig-tree.
  • The planting of the Mulberry and Fig-tree.
  • The tree that beareth bitter fruit.
  • To help barren Trees.
  • Another way for the same.
  • To keep fruit after they be gathered.
  • The Mulberry-tree liking his earth.
  • Of Mosse on your Trees.
  • To keep Nuts long.
  • To cut or proyn the Peach-tree.
  • To colour Peach-stones.
  • If Peaches be troubled with Worms.
  • Peaches without stones.
  • Another way for the same.
  • How to help trees that do not prosper.
  • Graffing Apples to last on the tree till Alhallontide.
  • Making Cherries and Peaches smell like spice.
  • Graffing an Apple-tree half sweet, half sower,
  • Graffing the Rose on the Holly-tree.
  • Keeping of Plums.
  • Altering of Pears.
  • Making of Cyder and Perry.
  • How to help frozen Apples.
  • How to make Apples fall from the Tree.
  • Watering trees in Summer, if they wax dry about the root.
  • How to cherish Apples.
  • How to make an Apple grow in a Glasse.
  • How to Graffe many sorts of Apples on one Tree.
  • How to colour Apples of what colour ye list.
  • How to graffe and have Apples without Core.
  • Setting of Vine-plants.
  • [Page]How to proyn or cut a Vine in Winter.
  • Grape and Vine how to order them.
  • How to have Grapes without stones.
  • Making a Vine to bring a Grape to t [...]ste like Claret.
  • Gathering of your Grapes.
  • How to know if your Grapes be ripe enough.
  • How to prove or taste Wine.
  • Setting, planting and ordering of Hops.
  • How to choose your Hops.
  • How to sow the seeds.
  • Setting your Poles.
  • How to proine your Hop.
  • How to gather your Hops.
  • What Poles are best for your purpose.
  • How to order and dresse your hills.
  • The best ground for your Hops.]
  • A note of all the rest abovesaid.
  • Packing and keeping your Hops.
The Authors Conclusion of this Table.
TO God be praise on high
in all our wordly Planting,
And let us thank the Romanes also,
for the Art of Graffing and Gardening.
A Table for the Hop-Garden.
  • A Perfect Platform of a Hop-Garden.
  • Of unapt Ground, and apt for Hops
  • Of the scituation.
  • Of the quantity.
  • A proportion of the charge and benefit of a Hop-Garden.
  • Of the preparation of a Hop-Garden.
  • The time to set and [...]ut Hop-roots.
  • Rules for the choice and preparation of roots.
  • Of the good Hop.
  • Of the unkindly Hop.
  • Of the wild Hop.
  • Of setting of Hop-roots.
  • The distance of the hills.
  • A Description of the Line.
  • Abuses and disorders in setting.
  • Provision again [...] annoyance and spoil of your Garden.
  • Of Poles.
  • Of the erection of Poles.
  • Of ramming of Poles.
  • Of reparation of Poles.
  • Of pulling up Poles.
  • The way to make the Instrument wherewith to pull up the Hop-poles.
  • The manner of pulling up the Hop-poles.
  • Of the preservation of poles.
  • Of tying of Hops to the poles.
  • [Page]Of hilling and hils.
  • Abuses in hilling.
  • Of the gathering of Hops.
  • What there is to be done in Winter herein.
  • When and where to lay Dung.
  • The order of cutting Hoppe Roots.
  • Of divers mens follies.
  • Of disorders and maintainers thereof.
  • Of an Oste.
  • Of the severall rooms for an Oste.
  • Of the Furnace or Keele.
  • Of the bed or upper floore of the Oste, whereon the Hoppes must be dryed.
  • The orderly drying of Hops.
  • Other manner of Dryings not so good.
  • The very worst way of drying Hops.
  • Of not Drying.
  • Of the packing of Hops.
  • The reformation of a garden of wild Hops
  • The Reformation of a disordered Garden.
  • Needless curiosities used by the unskilfull.

THE COVNTRY-MANS Recreation, or the Art of Plan­ting, Graffing, and Gardening.

CHAP. I. This Chapter treateth of the setting of Curnels, young Plum-trees, And Pear-trees, of Damsons, and Service-trees.

FOR to make young trees of the Pepins of Ap­ples, Pears, Plums, and Service. First, yee must prepare and make a great bed or quarter well replenished, blended or mixt with good fat earth, and placed well in the Sun, and to be well labored and digged a good time before you do occupy it: and if you can by any means, let it be dig­ged very deep the winter before, in blending or mixting it well together with good fat earth, or else to be mixed almost the half with good dung: and so let it rot and ripe together with the earth. And see alwayes that plot be clean unto the pressing of Syder, that no wild Cions or Plants do spring or grow thereon. Then in the moneth of September, Decem­ber, or there abouts, take of the Pepins, or Pomes of the said fruit at the first pressing out of your licour, before the Curnels be marred or bruised: then take out of them and rub a few at once in a cloth, and dry them betwixt your hands, and take so many thereof, as you shall think good: then make your bed square, fair and plain, [Page 2] and sow your seeds thereon, then take and cover them with a rake lightly, or with earth, not putting too much upon them. This done, devide your beds into quadrants or squares, of foure foot broad or thereabout, that when ye list ye may clense them from the one side to the other, without treading thereon. Then shall ye cover your Seeds, or Pepins with fine earth, so sisting all over them, that then they may take the deeper and surer root, and will keep them the better in Winter following, and if ye list ye may rake them a little all over, so that ye raise not your P [...]pins above the earth.

Another way, how one may take the Pepins at the first comming of the licour or pressing.

WHich is, ye shall choose the greatest and fairest Curnels or Pepins, and take them forth at the first bruising of your fruit, then dry them with a cloth, and keep them all the winter untill St. Andrews tide: then a little after sow them in good earth, as thin as you doe Peason, and then rake them over as the other.

How one ought to use his earth to sow Pepins without dunging.

BUt in this manner of doing (in the Spring) it is not so great need for to raise or digge the earth so deep as that which is dunged in winter: but to devide your quarters, in covering your Pepins not so much with earth, as those which be sown with good dung, but when ye have sown them, a little rake all them over.

How ye ought to take heed of Poultrey for scraping of your beddes or quarters.

AS soon after as your Pepins be sown upon your beds or quarters, let this be done one way or other, that is, take good heed that your Hennes do not scrape your beds or quarters: therefore stick them all over light and thin with boughes, or thrones, and take good heed also to Swine, and other Cattell.

How to weed or cleanse your Beds and quarters.

ANd when the Winter is past and gone, and that ye see your pepins rise and grow, so let them increase the space of one year, but see to cleanse weeds, or other things which may hurt them as you shall see cause. And in the Summer when it shall waxe dry, water them well in the Evenings.

How one ought to pluck up the wilde Cions.

ANd when these wilde Cions shall be great, as of the growth of one year, ye must then pluck them up all in winter following, before they doe begin to spring again. Then shall ye set them and make of them a wild Orchard as followeth.

CHAP. II. Treateth how one shall set again the small wilde Trees, which come of Pepins, when they be first pluckt up.

FOr the Bastard or little wilde Trees incontinent assoon as they be pluckt up, ye must have of other good earth well trimmed and dunged, and to be well in the Sunne, and well prepared and drest, as it is said in the other part before of the Pepins.

How to dung your Bastard or wilde young Trees which come of Pepins.

ABout Advent before Christmas, ye must digge and dung well the place whereas ye will set them, and make your square of earth even and plain, so large as ye shal think good, then set your wilde trees so farre one from another as yee think meet to be graft, so that they may be set in even ranks and in good order, that when need shall require, ye may re­move or renue any of them, or any part thereof.

How ye ought in replanting or setting to cut off in the middest, the principall great roots.

IN what part soever yee doe set any Trees, yee must cut off the great master root, within a foot of the stock, and all other big roots, so that ye leave a foot long thereof, and so let them be set, and make your ranks crosse-wise one from another half a foot, or thereabouts, and ye must also see that there be of good dung more deep and lower than ye doe set your Trees, to comfort the said roots withall.

How you ought to set your Trees in rank.

YE shall leave between your ranks, from one rank to an­other, one foot, or thereabouts, so that yee may set them with good fat earth all over the roots.

How to make the space from one rank to another.

YE shall leave between your ranks, from one rank to an­other, one foot, or thereabouts, so that ye may passe between every rank, for to cleanse them if need require, and also to graffe any part or parcell thereof when time shall be meet. But yee must note, in making thus your ranks, ye shall make as many allies as ranks. And if ye think it not good to make as many allies, then divide those into quarters of five foot broad, or thereabouts, and make and set four ranks (in each quarter of the same) one foot from ano­ther as ye use to set great Cabbage, and assoon after as ye have set them in ranks and in good order, as is aforesaid, then shal ye cut off all the sets even by the ground. But in this doing, see that ye do not pluck up or loose the earth that is about them: or if you will, ye may cut them before ye doe set them in ranks. If ye do so, see that yee set them in such good or­der, and even with the earth, as is aforesaid. And it shal suffice also to make your ranks as ye shall see cause. And look that ye furnish the earth all over with good dung, without ming­ling of it in the earth, nor yet to cover the said Plants with­all, but strowed betwixt; and ye must also look well to the [Page 5] cleansing of weeds, grasse, or other such things which, will be a hurt to the growth of the Plants.

How to water plants when they wax dry.

IT shall be good to water them when the time is dry: in the first Year. Then when they have put forth of new Ci­ons, leave no more growing but that Cion which is the principall and fairest, upon every stock one: all the other cut off hard by the stock, and ever as they do grow small twigs about the stock, ye shall (in the Moneth of March and Aprill) cut them all off hard by the stock. And if ye then stick by every Plant a pretty wand, and so bind them with Willow bark, Bryer, or Ofiers, it shall profit them much in their groweth. Th [...]n after five or six years groweth, when they be so big as your finger, or thereabouts, ye may then remove any of them whereas ye will have them grow and remain.

How one ought to remove Trees, and to plant them again.

THe manner how ye ought to remove trees, is shewed in the sixt Chapter following: then about two or three years after their removing, ye shall graffe them, for then they will be the better rooted. As for the others, which ye leave still in ranks, ye may also graffe them whereas they stand, as ye shall see cause good. When ye have plucked up the fairest to plant in either places (as is aforesaid) also the manner how to graffe them, is shewd in the fift Chapter following. But af­ter they shall be so graft, in what place soever it be, ye shall not remove or set them in other places again, untill the Graffes be well closed upon the head of the wild stock.

When the best time is to replant, or remove.

WHen the head of the stock shall be all over closed about the graffs, then ye may, when ye wi [...]l, trans­plant and remove them (at a due time) where they shall con­tinue, [Page 6] For with often removing, ye shall do them great hurt in their roots, and be in danger to make them dye.

Of negligence and forgetfulnesse.

IF peradventure ye forget (through negligence) and have let small Cions two or three years grow about the roots of your stocks unplucked up, then if you have so done, ye may well pluck them up and set them in ranks as the o­ther of the Pepins. But ye must set the ranks more larger that they may be removed without hurting of each others roots: and cut off all the small twigges about as need shall require, though they be set or graffed. Order them also in all things as those small Cions of a years growth.

It is not so convenient to Graffe the Service Tree as to set

WHereas ye shall see young Service Trees, it shall be most profit in setting them, for if ye do graffe them, I believe ye shall win nothing thereby.

The best is onely to pluck up the young Bastard Trees when they are as great as a good walking-staffe: then proin or cut off their branches and carry th [...]m to set whereas they may be no more removed, and they shall profit more in set­ting then in graffing.

Some Trees without graffing bring forth good fruit, and some other being graffed be better to make Syder of.

IT is here to be marked, that though the Pepins be sown of the Pomes of Peares and good Apples, yet ye shall find that some of them do love the tree whereof they came, and those be right, which have also a smooth bark and as fair as those which be graffed: the which if ye plant or set them thus growing from the master-root without graffing, they shall bring as good fruit, even like unto the P [...]pin whereof he first came. But there be other new sorts commonly good to eat, which be as good to make Syder of, as those which shall be graffed for that purpose.

When you list to augment and multiply your Trees.

AFter this sort ye may multiply them, being of divers sorts and diversities, as of Pears or Apples, or such like. Notwithstanding, whensoever ye shall finde a good Tree thus come of the Pepin, as is aforesaid, so shall ye use him. But if ye will augment trees of themselves, ye must take Graffes, and so graffe them.

Of the manner and changing of the fruit of the Pepin-tree.

WHensoever ye do replant or change your Pepin trees from place to place, in so removing often the stock, the fruit thereof shall also change; but fruit which doth come of graffing, doth alwayes keep the form and nature of the Tree whereof he is taken: for as I have said, as often as the Pepin trees be removed to a b [...]tter ground, the fruit thereof shall be so much amended.

How one ought to make good Syder.

HEre is to be noted, if ye will make good Syder of what fruit soever it be, bearing Pears or Apples, but specially of good Apples, and wild fruit, have alwayes a re­gard unto the ryping thereof, so gathered dry, then put them in dry places, on boards in heaps, covered with dry straw, and whensoever ye will make Syder thereof, choose out all those which are black bruised, and rotten Apples, and throw them away, then take and use the rest for Syder: But here to give you understanding, do not as they do in the Countrey of Mentz, which do put their fruit gathered, into the mid­dest of their Garden, in the rain and mislings, upon the bare earth, which will make them to lose their force and vertue, and doth make them also withered rough, and lightly a man shall never make good Syder that shall never come to any purpose or good profit thereof.

To make an Orchard in few Years.

SOme do take young straight slippes, which do grow from the roots, or of the sides of the Apple Trees, about [Page 8] Michaelmasse, and do so plant or set them (with Otes) in good ground, whereas they shall not be removed, and so graffe (be­ing well rooted) thereon. Othersome do take and set them in the Spring time, after Christmas, in like wise, and doe graffe thereon when they be well rooted: and both do spring well. And this manner of way is counted to have an Orchard the soonest. But these Trees will not endure past twenty or thirty years.

CHAP. III. Is of setting Trees of Nutts.

How one ought to set Trees which come of Nutts.

FOr to set trees which come of Nutts: when ye have eaten the fruit, look that ye keep the Stones and Cur­nels thereof, then let them be dryed in the wind, with­out the vehemency of the Sun, to reserve them in a box, and use them as before.

Of the time when yee ought to Plant or Set them.

YE shall plant or set them in the beginning of Winter, or before Michaelmass, whereby they may the sooner spring out of the earth. But this manner of setting is dangerous: for the Winter then comming in, and they being young and ten­der in comming up, the cold will kill them. Therefore it shal be best to stay and reserve them till after winter. And then before yee doe set them, yee shall soke or steep them in Milk, or in Milk and water, so long till they doe stink therein: then shall ye dry them, and set them in good earth, in the change or increase of the Moone, with the small end up­wards, foure fingers deep, then put some stick thereby to mark the place.

For to set them in the Spring time.

IF ye will plant or set your Nuts in the Spring time, where ye will have them still to remain, and not to be [Page 9] removed, the best and most easie way is, to set in every such place (as ye think good) three or four Nuts nigh to­gether, and when they do all spring up leave none standing but the fairest.

Of the Dunging and deep digging thereof.

ALso whereas ye shall think good, ye may plant or set all your Nuts in one square or quarter together in good earth and dung, in such place and time as they use to plant. But see that it be wel dunged, and also digged good and deep and to be well medled with good dung throughout, then set your Nuts three fingers deep in the earth, and half a foot one from another: ye shall water them often in the Sum­mer, when there is dry weather, and see to weed them, and dig it as ye shall see need.

Of Nuts and Stones, like to the Trees they came of

IT is here to be noted, that certain kind of Nuts and Cur­nels which do love the Trees whereof the fruit is like unto the Tree they came of, when they be planted in good ground, and set well in the Sun, which be the Walnuts, Chesnuts, all kind of Peaches, Figges, Almonds, and Apri­cocks, all these do love the Trees they came of.

Of Planting the said Nuts in good earth, and in the Sun.

ALL the said Trees do bring as good fruit of the said Nuts, if they be well planted and set in good earth, and well in the Sun; as the fruit and Trees they first came of.

Why fruits shall not have so good savour.

FOr if ye plant good Nuts, good Peaches, or Figs in a garden full of shadow, the which hath afore loved the Sun as the Vine doth, for lack thereof their fruit shall not have so good savor, although it be all of one fruit: & likewise so it is with all other fruit and trees, for the goodnes of the [Page 10] earth, and the fair Sun doth preserve them much.

For to set the Pine Trees.

FOr to set the Pine-tree, ye must set or plant them of Nuts in March, or about the shoot of the sappe, not lightly after, ye must also set them where th [...]y may not be removed after in holes well digged, and well dunged, not to be transplanted or removed again, for very hardly they will shoot forth Ci [...]ns, being removed, specially if ye hurt the master root thereof.

For to set Cherry-Trees.

For to set sowre Cherries, which do grow commonly in gardens, ye shal understand they may well grow of stones, but better it shall be to take off the small Cions which do come from the great roots: then plant them, and sooner shall they grow then the stones, and those Cions must be set when they are sm [...]ll, young and tender: as of two, or three years growth, for when they are great they profit not so wel and when ye set them, ye must see to cut off all the boughs.

Trees of bastard and wild Nuts.

THere be other sorts of Nuts, although they be well set in good ground, and also in the Sun, yet will they not bring half so good fruit as the other, nor commonly like unto those Nuts they came of, but to be a bastard wild sowr fruit, which is Filberd, small Nuts, of Plums of Cherries, and the great Apricocks; therefore if ye will have them good fruit, ye must set them in manner and form following.

How to set Filberd or Hasel-trees.

FOr to set Filberds or Hasels, and to have them good, take the small wands that grow out from the root of the Fil­bird or Hasel-tree (with short hairy wings) and set them, and they shall bring as good fruit as the Tree they came of: it shall not be needful to proin or cut off the branches there­of when ye set them, if they be not great, but those that ye [Page 11] do set, let them be but of two or three years growth, and if ye shall see those Cions, which ye have planted, not to be fair and good, or do grow and prosper not well, then in the Spring time cut them hard off by the root, that other small Cions may grow there off.

To set Damsons or Plum trees.

IN setting Damsons or Plum-trees, which fruit ye would have like to the Trees they came of: if the said Trees be not grafted before, ye shall take onely the Cions that grow from the root of the old stock, which groweth with small twigs, and plant or set them: and their fruit shall be like unto the Trees they were taken of.

To take Plum Graffes, and graffe them on other Plum-trees

ANd if your Plum-trees be graffed already, and have the like fruit that you desire, ye may take your graffes there­of, and Graffe them on your Plum-trees, and the fruit that shall come thereof, shall be as good as the fruit of the Cion, which is taken from the root, because they are much of like effect.

To set all sorts of Cherries.

TO set all sorts of great Cherries, and others: ye must have the graffes of the same Trees, and graffe them on other Cherrie trees, although they be of sowre fruit, and when they are so graffed, they will be as good as the fruit of the Tree whereof the graffe was taken, for the stones are good, but to set to make wild Cions, or Plants to graffe on.

The manner how one may order both Plum-trees, and Cherrie-trees.

FOr somuch as these are two kind of Trees, that is, to understand, the Cherry and the Plum-tree, for when they be so graffed, their Roots be not so good, nor so free as the Branches above, wherefore the Cions that doe [Page 12] come from the roots, shall not make so good and frank trees of. It is therefore to be understood, how this manner and sort is to make frank trees, that may put forth good Cions in time to come, which is, when they be great and good, then if ye will take those Cions, or young springs from the roots, ye may make good trees thereof, and then it shall not need to graffe them any more after: but to augment one by the other, as ye do the Cions from the root of the Nut, as is aforesaid, and ye shall doe as followeth.

How to graffe Plum-trees and Cherry-trees.

YE may well graff Plum-trees and great Cherry-trees, in [...]uch good order as ye list to have them, and as hereaftr shall be declared in the fifth Chapter following: for these would be graffed while they be young and small, and also graft in the ground, for thereby one may dresse and trim them the better, and put but one graffe in [...]ach stock of the same. Cleave not the heart, but a little on the one side, nor yet d [...]ep, or long open.

How you must proine or cut your Tree.

FOr when your graffes be well taken on the stock, and that the graffes doe put forth fair and long, about one yeares growth, ye must proine, or cut the branch off com­monly in winter, (when they proin their Vines) a foot lower, to make them spred the better: then shall ye mingle all through with good fat earth, the which will draw the better to the place, which you have so proined or cut.

The convenientest way to clense and proin, or dresse the roots of Trees,

ANd for the better clensing and proining trees beneath, it is thus: Ye shall take away the weeds, and graft about the Roots, then shall you digge them so round about, as ye would seem to pluck them up, and shall make them h [...]lf bare, then shall ye inlarge the earth about the Roots, and whereas ye shall see them grow fair and long, place or couch [Page 13] them in the said hole and earth again: then shall ye put the cut end of the Tree where it is graft, somewhat lower than his roots were, whereby his Cions so grafted, shall spring so much the better.

When the Stocks are greater than the Graffs.

WHen as the tree waxeth, and swelleth greater beneath the Graffing than above, then shall ye cleave the roots beneath, and wreath them round, and so cover them again. But see you break no root thereof, so will he come to perfe­ction. But most men do use this way: if the stock wax greater than the Graffes, they doe slit downe the barks of the Graffs above in two or three parts, or as they shall see cause there­of: and so likewise, if the Graffes wax greater above than the stock, ye shall slit down the stock accordingly with the sharp edge of a knife, This may well be done at any time in March, April and May, in the increase of the Moon, and not likely after.

The Remedy when ane Bough or Member of a Tree is broken.

IF you shall chance to have B [...]ughs or M [...]mbers of Trees broken, the best remedy shall be, to [...]lace those Boughs or Members right soon again (then shall ye comfort the roots with good new earth) and bind tast those broken boughs or Members, both above and beneath, and so let them remaine unto another yeare, until they may close, and put forth new Cions.

When a Member or Bough is broken how to proine them.

WHereas ye shal see under or above superfluous boughs, ye may cut or proin off (as ye shall see cause) all such boughs hard by the tree, at a due time in the winter follow­ing. But leave all the principall branches, and whereas any are broken, let them be cut off beneath, or els by the ground and cast them away: thus must you doe yearly, or as ye shall [Page 14] see cause, if ye will keep your Trees well and faire.

How one ought to enlarge the hole about the Tree roots.

IN proyning your Trees, if there be many roots, ye must enlarge them in the hole, and so to wreath them as it is a­foresaid, and to use them without breaking, then cover them again with good fat earth, which ye shall mingle in the said hole, and it shall be best to be digged all over a little before, and see that no branch or root be left uncovered, and when you have thus dressed your Trees, if any root shall put forth, or spring hereafter out of the said holes, in growing ye may so proin them, as ye shall see cause, in letting them so remain two or three years after, unto such time as the said Graffes be sprung up and well branched.

How to set small Staves by, to strengthen your Cions.

TO avoid danger, ye shall set or strick small staves about your Cions, for fear of breaking, and then after three or foure years, when they be well branch [...]d: ye may then set or plant them in good earth, (at the beginning of Winter) but see that ye cut off all their small branches hard by the stock, then ye may plant them where ye think good, so as they may remain.

In taking up Trees, note.

YE may well leave the maister root in the hole (when ye digge him up) if the removed place be good for him, cut off the master roots by the stub, but pare not off [...]ll the small roots, and so plant him, and he shall profit more thus, then others with all their maister roots. When as Trees be great, they must be disbranched, or boughes cut off, before they be set again, or else they will hardly prosper. If the Trees be great, having great branches or boughes, when ye shall digge them up, ye must disbranch them afore ye set them again, for when Trees shall be thus proined, they shall bring great [Page 15] Cions from their Roots, which shall be frank and good to replant, or set in other places, and shall have also good bran­ches and roots, so that after it shall not need to graffe them any more, but shall continue one after another to be free and good.

How to couch the Roots when they are not proyned.

IN setting your Trees again, if ye will dresse the roots of such as ye have proined, or cut off the branches before, ye shall leave all such small roots wch grow on the great root, & ye shall so place those roots in replanting again, not deep in the earth, so that they may soon grow, and put forth Ci­ons: which being well used, ye may have fruit so good as the other afore-mentioned, being of three or foure years growth, as before is declared.

What Trees to proyne.

THis way of proyning is more harder for the great Chery (called Healmier) then for the Plum-tree. Also it is very requisite and meet for those Cions or Trees, which be graft on the wilde sowre Cherry-tree, to be proined also, for divers and sundry causes.

Why the sowre Cherry dureth not so long as the Healmier or great Cherry.

THe wild and sower Cherry, of his own nature will not so long time indure, (as the great Healme Cherry) nei­ther can have sufficient sappe to nourish the Graffes, as the great Healme Chery is graft; therefore when ye have proined the branches beneath, and the roots also, so that ye leave roots sufficient to nourish the Tree, then set him.

If ye cut not off the under rootes, the Tree will profit more easier, and also lighter to be known, when they put forth Cions, from the root of the same, the which ye may take hereafter.

To graffe one great Cherry upon another.

YE must have respect unto the Healme Cherry, which is graft on the wild Gomire (which is another kind of great Cherry) and whether you do proin them or not, it is not materiall, for they dure a long time. But ye must see to take away the Cions, that do grow from the root of the wild Go­mire, or wild Plum-tree: because they are of nature wild, and do draw the sappe from the said Tree.

Of deep Setting or shallow.

TO set your Stocks or Trees somwhat deeper on the high grounds, then in the Vallies; because the sunne in sum­mer shall not dry the root: and in the low ground more shallow, because the water in Winter shall not drown or annoy the Roots. Some do mark the stock in taking it up, and to set him again the same way, because he will not alter his nature: so likewise the Graffes in Graffing.

CHAP. IV. This Chapter doth shew how to set other Trees which come of wilde Cions, pricked in the earth without roots: and also of proining the meaner Cions.

Trees take root prickt of Branches.

THere be certain which take root, being pricked of Branches proined of other Trees, which be, the Mul­berry, the Fig-Tree, the Quince-Tree, the Service-Tree, the Pomgranad-Tree, the Apple-Tree, the Damson-Tree, and divers sorts of other Plum-Trees, as the Plum-Tree of Paradice, &c.

How one ought to set them.

FOr to set these sorts of Trees, ye must cut off the Cions, twigs, or boughes, betwixt Alhallontide and Christmas, [Page 17] not lightly after. Ye shall chose them, which be as great as a little staff or more, and looke whereas you can find them fair, smooth, and straight, and full of sap withall, growing of young trees, as of the age of three or four yeares growth, or thereabouts, and look that ye take them so from the tree with a broad Chizel, that ye break not, or loose any part of the bark thereof, more than half a foot beneath, neither of one side or other: then proine or cut off the branches, and prick them one foot deepe in the earth, well digged and ordered before.

How to binde them that be weak.

THose Plants which be slender, ye must proin or cut off the branches, then bind them to some stake or such like to be set in good earth, and well mingled with good dung, and also to be well and deeply digged, and to be set in a moist place, or els to be well watered in Summer.

How one ought to digge the Earth to set them in.

ANd when that ye would set them in the earth, ye must first prepare to digge it, and dung it well throughout a [...] [...]eep in the earth. And then ye shall set them eve­ry one in his place made (before) with a crow of Iron, and for to make them take root the better, ye shall put with your Plants watered Oates, or Barley, and so ye shall let them grow the space of three or four yeares, or when they shal be branched, then ye may remove them, and if ye break off the old stubby root, and set them lower, they will last a long time the more. If some of those Plants doe chance to put forth Cions from the root, and being so rooted, ye must pluck them up, though they be tender, and set them in other places.

Of Cyons without Roots.

IF that the said Plants have Cions without any roots, but which come from the Root beneath, then cut them not [Page 18] off, till they be of two or three years growth, by that time they will gather roots, to be replanted in other places.

To plant the Fig-tree.

THe said Plants taken off Fig-trees graffed, be the best. Ye may likewise take other sorts of Fig-trees, and graff one upon the other, for like as upon the wild Trees doe come the Pepins, even so the Fig, but not so soone to prosper and grow.

How to set Quinces.

LIkewise the nature of Quinces, is to spring, if they be pricked (as aforesaid) in the earth, but sometime I have graffed with great difficulty, saith mine Author, upon a white Thorne, and it hath taken and born fruit to look on fair, but in taste weaker than the other.

The way to set Mulberries.

THere is also another way to set Mulberries, as follows, which is, if you doe cut in Winter certaine great Mul­berry boughs, or stocks asunder in the body (with a Saw) in troncheons a foot long and more, then make ye a great furrow in good earth well & deep, so that you may cover again your troncheons, in setting them an end half a foot one from another, then cover them again, that the earth may be above those ends three or four fingers high, so let them remain, and water them in Summer, if need be sometimes, and clense them from all hurtfull weeds and roots.

Note one of the same.

THat then within a spa [...] of time after, the said tronchions will put forth Cions, which when they be somewhat sprigged, having two or three small twigs, then ye may transplant or remove them where you lift, but leave your troncheons still in the earth, for they will put forth many motions, the which, if they shall have scanty of root, then dung your troncheons with good earth, and likewise above also, and they shall do well.

The tyme to cut Cions.

VNderstand also that all trees, which usually put forth, put forth Cions, if ye cut them in winter, they will put forth and spring more abundantly, for then they be all good to set and plant.

To set Bush-tees, or Gooseberries or small Raisins.

THere be many other kind of Bush-trees, which will grow of Cions prickt in the ground, as the Gooseberry-tree, the small Raifin-tree, the Berberrie-tree, the Black Thorne-tree, these with many other to be planted in winter, will grow without roots: ye must also proine them, and they will grow well enough, so likewise ye may prick in Marh of Oziers in moist grounds, and they will grow, and serve to many purposes for your Garden,

CHAP. V. IT is to be understood that there be many wayes of graf­fings, whereof here I have onely put four sorts, which be good, both sure and well appoved, and easie to doe, which may very well be used in two parts of the yeare and more, for I have (saith he) graffed in our house, in e­very moneth, except October and November, and they have ta­ken well, which I have (saith he) in the winter begun to graffe, and in the Summer graffed in the Scutchion or shield according to the time, forward or slow; for certaine Trees, specially young fair Cions have enough or more of their sap unto the middle of August, than other some had at Midsum­mer before.

The way to graffe all soris of Trees.

ANd first of all it is to be noted, that all the sorts of frank Trees, as also wild Trees of nature, may be graffed [Page 20] with grafts, and in the Scutchion, and both do well take, but specially those Trees which be of like nature: therefore it is better so to graffe. Howbeit they may well grow and take of other sort of trees, but trees are not so good, nor will prosper so well in the end.

How to graffe Apple-trees, Peare-trees, Quince-trees, and Medlar-trees.

THey graffe the Peare-graffe upon other Peare-stocks, and Apple on Apple-stocks, Crab or Wilding-stock, the Quince and Medlar on the white Thorne, but most com­monly they use to graffe one Apple upon another, and both Peares and Quinces they graffe on Hawthorne and Crab-stock. And other kind of fruit called in French Saulfey, they use to graffe on the Willow-stock, the manner thereof [...] hard to doe, which I have not seen, therefore I will let it passe at this present.

The Graffing of Cherryes.

THey graffe the great Cherry, called in French Heaubmi­ers, upon the Crab-stock, and another long Cherry cal­led Guiviers, upon the wild or sowre Cherry Tree, and like­wise one Cherry upon another.

To graffe great Medlars.

THe Misple or Medlar, they may be graffed on other Med­lars, or on white-thorne, the Quince is graffed on the white or black thorne, and they doe prosper well. I have grafted (saith he) the Quince upon a wild Peare-stock, the which hath taken and borne fruit well and good, but they will not long endure. I believe (saith he) it was because the graff was not able enough to draw the sap from the Peare-stock. Some graffe the Medlar on the Quince, to be great. And it is to be noted, though the stock and the graft be of contrary natures, yet notwithstanding, neither the graff or Scutchion, shall take any part of the nature of the wild stock so grafted, though it be Pear, Apple, or Quince, which is con­trary [Page 21] against many which have written, that if ye graft the Medlar upon the Quince Tree, they shall be without stones, which is abusive and mockery. For I have (saith he) pro­ved the contrary.

Of divers kinds of Graffes.

IT is very true, that one may set a Tree, which shall beare divers sorts of fruits at once, if he be graffed with divers kind of graffes, as the black, white, and green Cherry toge­ther, and also Apples of other Trees, as Apples and Peares together, and in the Scutchion (ye may graffe) likewise of divers kinds also, as on Peares, Apricocks and Plums toge­ther, and of others also,

Of graffing of the Figs.

YE may graffe the Fig-tree upon the Peach tree or Apri­cock, but leave a branch on the stock, and there must be according for the space of yeares, for the one shall change sooner than the other. All trees abovesaid do take very well being graffed one with the other. And I have not known or found of any others: howbeit (saith he) I have curiously sought and proved, because they say one may graffe on Coleworts, or Elmes, the which I think are but Jests.

Of the great Apricock.

THe great Apricock they graffin summer, in the Scutchi­on or shield, in the sap or bark of the lesser Apricock, and be graffed on Peach-trees, Fig-rees, and principally on Dam­son or Plum-trees, for there they will prosper the better.

Of the Service-trees.

OF the Service-tree they say and write, that they may hardly be graffed on other Service-tres, either on Ap­ple-trees, Pear or Quince-trees: and I believe this to be very hard to doe, for I have tryed (saith he) and they would not prove.

The setting of Service-Trees

THerefore it is much better to set them of Curnels, as it is aforesaid, as also in the second Chapter of planting of Ci­ons, or other great Trees, which must be cut in winter, as such as shall be most meet for that purpose.

Trees which be very fit to be graffed in the Shield or Scutchion.

ALl other manner of Trees aforesaid, doe take very well to be graffed with Cions, and also in the Shield, except Apricocks on Peaches, Almonds, Perciginiers, the Peach-tree do take hardly to be graffed, but in the shield in Sum­mer, as shall be more largely declared hereafter. As for the Almonds, Perciginiers, and Peaches, ye may better set them of Curnels and Nuts, whereby they shall the sooner come to perfection to be graffed.

How a man ought to consider those Trees, which be commonly charged with fruit.

YE shall understand, that in the beginning of graffing, ye must consider what sorts of Trees doe most charge the stock with branch and fruit, or that doe love the Country, or Ground whereas you intend to plant or graffe them: for better it were to have abundance of fruit▪ than to have very few or none.

Of Trees whereon to choose your graffes.

OF such Trees as ye will gather your Gr [...]ffes to graffe with, ye must take them at the ends of the principall branches, which be also fairest and greatest of sappe, having two or three fingers length of the old wood, with the new, and those Cions, which eyes somewhat nigh together, are the best; for those which b [...] long, are farre one from another, and not so good to bring fruit.

The Cions towards the East are best.

YE shall understand, that those which doe grow on the East, or Orient part of the Tree, are best: ye must not [Page 23] lightly gather of the evill and slender graffes which grow in the middest of the Trees, nor any graffes which doe grow within on the branches, or that do spring from the stock of the Tree, nor yet graftes, which be on very old Trees, for thereby ye shall not lightly profit to any purpose.

To chuse your Trees for Graffes.

ANd when the Trees whereas you intend to gather your grafts, be small and yong, as of five or six years growth, do not take of the highest grafts thereof, nor the greatest, ex­cept it b [...] of a small Tree of two or three years, the which commonly hath too much of top or wood, otherwise not, for you shall but marre your graffing.

How to keep Graffes a long time.

YE may keep grafts a long time good, as from Alhallon­tide (so that the leaves be fallen) unto the time of grafting if that they be well covered in the earth half a foot deep ther­in, and so that none of them doe appear without the earth.

How to keep Graffes before they are budded.

ALso do not gather them, except ye have great need, un­till Christmas or there-abouts, and put them not in the ground nigh any walles for feare of Moles, Mice, and water, marring the place and grafts. It shall be good to keep grafts in the earth before they begin to bud, when that ye will graft betwixt the bark and the Tree, and when the Trees begin to enter into their sappe.

How one ought to begin to Graffe.

ALso ye must begin to graft (in cleaving the stock) at Christmas, or before, according to the coldnesse of the time, and principally the Healme or great Cherry, Peares, Wardens, or forward fruit of Apples: and for Medlars it is good to tarry untill the end of January and February, untill [Page 24] March, or until such time as ye shall see Trees begin to bud or spring.

When it is good graffing the wild stock.

In the Spring time it is good Graffing of wild stocks, (which be great) betwixt the bark and the tree, such stocks as are of later spring, and kept in the earth before, The Damson or Plum-tree tarrieth longest to be graffed: for they doe not shew or put forth sapp, as soon as others.

Mark if the Tree be forward or not.

ALso consider you alwayes, whether the Tree be forward or not, to be graffed soon or laterward, and to give him also a graffe of the like hast or slownesse: even so ye must marke the time, whether it be slow or forward.

When one will graffe what necessaries he ought to be furnished withall.

Whensoever ye go to Graffing, see ye be furnished with grafts, clay and mosse, cloths or barks of Sallow to bind likewise withall. Also ye must have a small Saw, and a sharp knife, to cleave and cut Graffes withall. But it wers much better, if ye should cut your Graffes with a great Pen-knife, or some other like sharp knife, having a small wedge of hard wood, or of Iron, with a hooked knife, and also a small mallet. And your wild stocks must be well rooted be­fore ye do graffe them: and be not so quick to deceive your selves, as those which do graffe and plant all at one time, yet they shall not profit so well: for where the wild stock hath not substance in himself, much lesse to give unto the other grafts: for when a man thinks sometime to forward himself, he doth hinder himselfe.

Of Graffes not prospering the first year.

Ye shall understand, that very hardly your Graffes shall prosper after, if they do not profit or prosper well in the first year, for whensoever (in the first year) they profit well, [Page 25] it were better to graffe them somewhat lower, than to let them so remain and grow.

For to graffe well and sound.

ANd for the best understanding of Graffing in the cleft, ye shall first cut away all the small Cions about the body of the stock beneath, and before ye begin to cleave your stock, dresse and cut your graffes somewhat thick and ready, then cleave your stock, and as the cleft is small or great (if need be) pare it smooth within, then cut your inci­sion of your graffes accordingly, and set them in the cleft, as even and as close as possible you can:

How to trim your Graffes.

ALso ye may graffe your Graffes full as long as two or three trunchions or cut-graffes, which ye may likewise graffe withall very well, and will be as those which doe come of old wood, and oftentimes better, than to graffe a bough, for often it so happeneth, a man shall find of Oylets or eyes hard by the old slender wood, yet better it were to cut them off with the old wood, and choose a better and fair place at some other eye in the same graffe, and to make your incision thereunder as aforsaid, and cut your graffs in making the incision on the one side narrow, and on the o­ther side broad, and the inner side thinn, and the outside thick, because the outside of your graff must joyn within the cleft, with the sappe of Barke of the wild, and it shall so be s [...]t in. See also that ye cut it smooth, as your clefts are in the Stock, in joyning at every place both even and close, and especially the joynts or corners of the graffes on the head of the stocke, which must be well and clean pared be­fore, and then set fast thereon.

How to cut graffes for Cherries and Plums.

IT is not much requisite in the helme Cherry, for to joyn the Graffes in the stock wholly throughout, as it is in [Page 26] others, or to cut the graffes of great Cherries, Damsons, or Plums, so thin and plaine as ye may other graffes, for these sorts have a greater sappe or pith within, the which ye must always take heed in cutting it too nigh on the one side or one the other, but at the end thereof chiefly, to be thin cut and flat.

Note also.

ANd yet if the said incision be straighter and closer on the one side than it is on the other side, pare it where it is most meet, and where it is too straight, open it with a wedge of Iron, and put in a wedge of the same wood above in the cleft, and thus may ye moderate your graffes as ye shall see cause

How in graffing to take heed that the Bark rise not.

IN all kind of cutting your gr [...]ffes, take heed to the bark of your graffes, that it doe not rise from the wood on no side thereof, and specially on the outside, therefore ye shall leave it thicker than the inner side: Also ye must take heed when as the stocks doe wreath in cleaving, that ye may joyn the graffe therein accordingly: The best remedy ther [...]fore is, to cut it smooth within, that the graffe may joyn the better: ye shall also for the greatest stocks make choice of the great­est Graffes.

How to cut your Stock.

HOw much the more your stock is thin and slender, so much more ye ought to cut him lower, and if your stock be as great as your finger, or thereabouts, ye may cut him a foot or half a foot from the earth, and dig him about; and dung him with Goats dung, to help withall, and graffe him but with one graffe or Cion.

If the wild Stock be great and slender.

IF your wild stock be great, or as big as a good, staffe ye shall cut him round off, a foot or there-abouts above the [Page 27] earth; then set in two good graffs in the head or cleft there­of

Trees as great as ones Arme.

BUt when your stock is as great as your arme, ye shall saw him cl [...]an off and round, three or four foot, or therea­abouts from the earth, for to defend him, and set in the head three graffes, two in the cleft, and one betwixt the bark and the Tree, on that side which ye have most space.

Great Trees as big as your Leg.

IF the stock be as big as your legge, or thereabouts, ye shall saw him f [...]ir and clean off, four or five foot high from the earth, and cleave him acrosse (if ye will) and set in four graffes in the clefts thereof, or else one cleft onely, and set two graffes in both the sides thereof, and other two graffes betwixt the bark and the Tree.

When the Graffes be pinched with the Stock.

YE must for the better understanding marke to graffe be­tween the bark and the Tree, for when the sappe is full in, the wood or wild Stocks being great, they doe common­ly pinch or wring the graffes too sore, if ye doe not put a small wedge of green wood in the cleft thereof, to help them withall against such danger.

How ye ought to cleave your Stock.

WHensoev [...]r you shall cleave your wild Stocks, take h [...]ed that ye cleave them not in the midst of the heart or pith, but a little on that si [...]e, which ye shall think good.

How to graffe the branch of great Trees.

IF ye would graft Trees, as big as your thigh, or bigger, it were much better to graffe onely the branch [...]s thereof, than the stock or body, for the stock will [...]ot before the graffes shall cover the head.

How to cut Branches old and great.

BUt if the Branches be too rude and without order, the best shall be to cut them all off, and within three or four years after they will bring fair young Cions againe, and then it shall be best to graffe them, and cut off all the su­perfluous and ill branches thereof,

How ye ought to bind your Graffes throughout for fear of windss

ANd when your graffes shall be grown, ye must binde them for feare of shaking of the wind, and if the Tree be free and good of himself, let the Cions grow still, and ye may graffe any part or branch ye will in the cleft, or betwixt the bark a [...]d the Tree, or in the Scutchion, if your bark be fair and loose.

To set many graffes in one cleft.

EVer when ye wi [...]l put many graffes in one cleft, see that one incision of your graffe be as large as the other, not to be put into the cleft so slightly and rashly, and that one side thereof be not more open than the other, and that these graffes be all of one length: it shall suffice also if they have three eyes on each graffe without the joynt thereof.

How to saw your stock before you leave him.

IN sawing your stock, see that you teare not the barke a­bout the head thereof, then cleave his head with a long sharpe knife, or such like, and knock your wedge in the middest thereof, then pare him on the head round about, and knock your wedge in so deep till it open meet for your graffes, but not so wide, then holding in one hand your graffe, and in the other hand your stock, set your graffe in close bark to bark, & let your wedge be greater above at the head, that ye may knock him out fair and easily again.

If the Stock cleave too much, or the bark doe open.

IF the Stock doe cleave too much, or open the bark with the wood too low, then softly open your stock with your wedge, and see if the incision of your graffe be meet, and just, according to the cleft, if not, make it untill it be meet, or else saw him off lower,

How Graffes never lightly take.

ABove all things you must consider the meeting of the two saps, betwixt the graffe and the wild stock, which must be set in just one with another: for ye shall understand, if they doe not joyn, and the one delight with the other, being even set, they shall never take together, for there is nothing onely to joyn their increase, but the sap, recoun­ting the one against the other.

How to set the Graffes right in the cleft.

WHen the bark of the Stock is more thick than the graff, ye must take good heed in setting of the graffe in the cleft, to the end that his sappe may joyn right with the sap of the stock on the in-side, and ye ought likewise to consider of the sappe of the stock, if he doe surmount the graffes in the out-sides of the cleft too much or not.

Of setting in the Graffes.

ALso ye must take good heed, that the graffes be well and clean set in, and joyn close upon the head of the stock. Likewise then the incision, which is set in the cleft, do joyn very well within on both sides, not to joyn so even, but sometimes it may do service, when as the graffes doe draw too much from the Stock, or the stock also on the graffes doe put forth.

Note also.

ANd therefore when the stock is rightly cloven, there is no danger in cutting the incision of the graffe, but a lit­tle [Page 30] straight rebated at the end thereof, that the sap may joyn one with the other better and closer together.

How you ought to draw out your wedge.

VVHen your graffes shall be well joyned with your stock, draw your wedge fair and so [...]tly forth, for fear o [...] dis [...]lacing your graffes, ye may leave within the cleft a small wedge of such green wood as is aforesaid, and ye shall cut it off close by the head of your stock, and so cover it with a barke as followeth.

To cover your clefts on the head.

VVHen your wedge is dr [...]wn forth, put a green pill of the thick bark of Willow, Crab or Apple, upon the clefts of the stock, that nothing m [...]y fall between: then cover all about the clefts on the stock head, two fingers thick with good clay, or nigh about that thicknesse, that no Wind or Rain may enter, then cover it round with moss, and then wreath it over with clothes, pills of Willow, Bryar, or Oziars, or such like, then bind them fast, and stick cer­tain long pricks on the graffes head amongst the Cions, to keep off the Crows, Jayes, or such like.

How you ought to see to the binding of your Graffes.

BUt all way [...]s take good heed to the binding of your heads that they wax slack or shaggie, neither on the one side or one the other, but remain fast upon the clay, the clay to re­maine fast likewise on [...]he stock h [...]ad under the binding thereof, wherefore the said clay must be moderated in such sort as followeth.

How ye ought to temper your clay.

THe best way is therefore to try your clay betwixt your hands for stones and such like, and so to temper it as ye shall think good, as it shall [...]equire moistnesse or driness, and to temper it with the hair of beasts (for when it drieth, it holdeth not so well on the stock,) or knead Mosse there­with, [Page 31] or mingle Hay thin therewith: Some conceit that the Mosse doth make the Trees mossie. But I rather suppose it is occasioned by the disposition of the place.

To bush your graffe heads.

VVHen ye shall bind or wrap your graffe heads with you band, take small Thornes and bind them with­in for to defend your Graffes from Kites, or Crows, or o­ther danger of other Fowles, or prick sharp white stickes thereon.

The second way to graffe high Branches on Trees.

THe second manner to graffe, is strange enough unto many: This kind of Graffing is on the tops of branches of Trees, which thing to make them grow lightly, is not so soone obtained: certaine it is, that wheresoever they be graffed, they doe onely require a faire young wood, as also a great Cion or twig, growing highest on the top of the Tree, which Cions ye shall choose to graffe on of many sorts of Fruits, if ye will, or as ye shall think good, which order followeth.

TAke graffs of other sorts of trees, which ye would graff in the top thereof, then mount to the top of the tree which you would graff, and cut off the tops of all such branches, or as many as ye would graffe on, and if they be greater than the graffes which ye would graffe, ye shall cut and graffe them lower as ye doe the small wild stock afore­said. But if the Cions that ye cut be as big as your graffe you graffe on, ye shall cut them lower betwixt the old wood and the new, or a little higher or lower: then cleave a little, and choose your graffes in like sort which you would plant, whereof you shall make your incision short, with the barke on both sides alike, and to be as thick on the one side as it is on the other, and also set so just in cleft, that the bark may be even and close, aswel above as beneath, on the one side as the other, and so bind them as is afore­said. [Page 32] It shall suffice that every graft have an oylet or eye, or two at the most without the joynt, for to leave them too long it shall not be good, and ye must dresse it with Clay and Mosse, and bind as it is aforesaid. And likewise ye may graffe these, as ye doe little wild Stocks, which should be as big as your graffes, and to graffe them, as you doe those with sap like on both sides, but then you must graffe them in the, earth, three fingers of, or thereabouts.

The manner of Graffing, is of Graffes which may be set between the Bark and the Tree
To graffe betwixt the bark and the Tree.

THis manner of graffing is good, when Trees doe begin to enter into their sap, which is about the end of Febru­ry unto the end of April, and specially on great wild stockes, which be hard to cleave, ye may set in four or five graffes in the head thereof, which graffes ought to be gathered afore, and kept close in the earth till then, for by that time afore­said, ye shall shall scantly find a Tree, but that he doth put forth or bud, as the Apple called Capendu, or such like.

Ye must therefore saw these wild stocks more charily, and more high, so they be great, and then cut the Graffes, which ye would set together, so as you would set them up­on the wild stock that is cleft, as is before rehearsed. And the incision of your graffs must not be so long and so thick, and the bark a little at the end thereof must be taken away, and made in a manner as a Launcet of Iron, and as thick on the one side as the other.

How to dresse the head to place the Graffes betwixt the Bark and the Tree.

ANd when your graffes be ready cut, then shall you clense the head of your stock, and pare it with a sharpe knife round about the barke thereof, to the end your graffes may [Page 33] joyn the better thereon, then take a sharp penknife, or other sharp pointed knife, and thrust it down betwixt the barke and the stock, so long as the incision of graffes be, then put your graffes softly downe therein to the hard joynt, and see that it doe sit close upon the stock head.

How to cover the head of your stock.

VVHen as you have set in your graffes, you must then cover it well about with good tough Clay, and Mosse, as is said of others, and then you must incontinent environ or compasse your head with small thorny bushes, and bind them fast thereon all about, for fear of great Birds, and likewise the wind.

Of the manner and graffing in the Shield or Scutchion.

THe fourth manne [...] to graffe, which is the last, is to graffe in the Scutchion in the sap in Summer, from the end of the moneth of May until August, when as Trees be yet strong in sap and leaves, for otherwise it cannot be done; the best time is in June and July, some yeares when the time is very dry, and that some Trees do hold their sap very long; there­fore ye must tary till it returne.

For to graffe in Summer so long as the Trees be full leaved.

FOr to begin this manner of graffing well, ye must in the Summer, when the Trees be almost full of sap, and when they have sprung forth new shoots being somewhat hard­ned, then shall ye take a branch thereof in the top of the tree, which ye will have graffed, and choose the highest and prin­cipallest branches, without cutting it from the old wood, and choose thereof the principallest oylet or eye, or budding place, of each branch one, with which oylet or eye, ye shall begin to graffe as followeth.

The big Cions are best to graffe.

CHiefly ye must know that the smallest & worst oylets, or buds of the said Cions be not so good to graffe: there­fore choose the greatest and the best you can find, first cut off the leaf hard by the oylet, then trench or cut the length of a barley corn beneath the oylet round about the barke, hard to the wood, and likewise above: then with a sharp point of a knife, slit it down halfe an inch beside the oylet, or bud, and with the point of a sharp knife softly raise the said Shield or Scutchion round about, with the oylet in in the middest, and all the sap belonging thereunto.

How to take off the Shield from the wood.

ANd for the better raising the said Shield, or Scutchion from the wood, after that ye have cut him round a­bout, then slit him down, without cutting any part of the wood within, you must then raise the side next you that is slit and then take the same Shield betwixt your finger & thumb, and pluck or raise it softly off, without breaking or bruising any part thereof, and in the opening or plucking it off, hold it with your finger hard to the wood, that the sap of the oylet may remain in the Shield, for if it goe off in plucking it from the barke, and stick to the wood, your Scutchions are nothing worth.

To know your Scutchion or Shield when he is good or bad.

ANd for the more easie understanding whether it be good or bad when it is taken from the wood, look within the said shield, and if ye shall see it crack or open within, then it is of no value, for the chief Sap doth yet remain behind with the wood which should be in the shield; and therefore ye must choose and cut another Shield, which must be good and sound as aforesaid, and when your Scutchion shall be well taken off from the wood, then hold it dry by the oylet or eye betwixt your lips, till you have taken off the barke [Page 35] from the other Cion or branch, and set him in that place, and see that ye doe not foul or wet it in your mouth.

Of young Trees to graffe on.

BUt ye must graffe on such Trees as be from the bignesse of your little finger, unto as great as your arme, having their bark thin and slender, for great Trees commonly have their bark hard and thick, which ye cannot well graffe this way, except they have some branches with a thin smooth bark, meet for this way to be done.

How to set or place your Shield.

Ye must quickly cut off round the bark of the Tree that ye will graffe on, a little longer than the Shield that ye set on, because it may joyne the sooner and easier, but take heed that in cutting the bark ye cut not the wood within.

Note also.

AFter the incision once done, ye must then cover both the sides or ends well and softly with a little bone or horne made in manner like a thin skin, which ye shall lay all over the joynts or closings of the said Shield, somewhat longer and larger, but take heed ye hurt not or crush the bark thereof.

How to lift up the bark and to set your Shield on.

THis done, take your Shield or Scutchion by the oylet or eye that he hath, and open him fair and softly by the two sides, and put them straight way one the other Tree, where­as the barke is taken off, and joyn him close barke to barke thereon, then plaine it softly above, and at both the ends with the thinne bone, and that they joyne above and be­neath barke to barke, so that he may feed well the branch of that Tree.

How to bind your Shield.

THis done, ye must have a wreath of good Hempe, to bind the said shield on his place; the manner to bind it is this, ye shall make a wreath of Hemp together, as great as a Gose-quill, or thereabouts, or according to the bignesse or smallnes of your Tree; then take your Hemp in the middest; that the one half may serve for the upper half of the shield, in winding and crossing with the Hemp, the said shield on the branch of the tree, but see you bind it not too straight, for it shall let him from taking or springing, and likewise their sap cannot easily come or passe from the one to the other and see also that wet come not to your shield, nor likewise the Hemp that ye bind it withall. Ye shall begin to bind your Scutchion first behind in the middest of your shield, in com­ing stil lower and lower, and so recover under the oylet and tail of your shield, binding it nigh together, without reco­vering of the said oylet, then ye shall return again upward, in binding it backward to the middest where ye began. Then take the other part of the Hemp, and bind so likewise the up­per part of your shield, & increase your Hemp as ye shal need, and so return ag [...]in backward, and ye shall bind it so, till the fruits or clefts be covered (both above and beneath) with your said Hemp, except the oylet and the tail, the which ye must not cover, for that tail will shed apart, if the Shield do take.

On one tree you may graffe, or put two or three Shields.

YE may very well if ye will, on every tree graffe two or three shields, but see that one be not right against ano­ther, nor yet of the one side of the Tree, let your shields so remain bound on the Trees, one moneth or more after they be graffed, and the greater the Tree is, the longer to remain, and the smaller, the lesser time.

The time to unbind your Shield.

ANd then after one moneth, or six wkeks past, ye must unbind the Shield, or at the least cut the Hemp behind the Tree, and let it so remain until the Winter next following, and then about the moneth of March or April, if ye will, or when ye shall see the sap of the Shield put forth, then cut the branch above the Shield, three fingers all about all off.

How to cut and govern the Branches graffed on the Tree.

THen in the next year after that the Cions shall be well strengthened, and when they do begin to spring, then shall ye cut them all hard off about the Shield above, for if ye had cut them so nigh in the first year, when they begin first to spring or but, it should greatly hinder them against their increase of growing: also when those Cions shall put forth a fair Wood, ye must bind and stay them in the midst, fair and gently with small wands, or such like, that the wind and weather hurt them not. And after this manner of graffing, is practised in the Shield or Scutchion, which way ye may easi­ly graffe the white Rose on the Red: and likewise ye may have Roses of [...]ivers colours and sorts upon one branch or Root, This I thought sufficient and meet do declare, of this kind of graffing at this present.

CHAP. VI. Of transplanting or altering of Trees.

The sooner ye transplant or set them, it shall be the better.

YE ought to Transplant or set your Trees from Alhal­lontide unto March, and the sooner the better, for as soon as the Leaves are fallen from the Trees, they be meet for to be Planted, if it be not in a very cold or [Page 38] moist place, the which then it were best for to tarry untill Ja­nuary, or February, to plant in the Frost is not good.

To Plant or Set towards the South or Sunny place is best.

A Fore you do pluck up your trees for to plant them, if ye will mark the South-side of each trees, that when ye shall replant them, ye may set them again as they stood before, which is the best way as some do say. And if ye keep them a certain time, after they be taken out of the Earth, before ye replant them again, they will rather recover there in the earth, so they be not wet with Rain, nor otherwise, for that shall be more contrary to them than the great Heat or Drought.

How to cut the Branches of Trees before they be Set.

WHensoever ye shall set or replant your Trees, first ye must cut off the boughes, and specially those which are great branches, in such sort that ye shall leave the small twigs or sprigs, on the stocks of your branch, which must be but a shaftment long, or somewhat more, or lesse according as the Tree shall require, which ye do set.

Apple-trees commonly must be disbranched before they be replanted or set.

ANd chiefly the Apple Trees, being Graffed or not Graf­fed, doe require to be disbranched before they be set a­gain, for they shall prosper thereby much the better: the o­ther sorts of Trees may well passe unbranched, if they have not too great or large branches, and therefore it shall be good to transplant or set, as soon after as the graffes are clo­sed, on the head of the wild Stock, as for small Trees which have but one Cion or twig, it needs not to cut them above, when they be replanted or removed.

All wild Stocks must be disbranched when they are replanted or set.

ALL wild trees or stocks, which ye think for to graffe on, ye must first cut off all their Branches before ye set them again: also it shall be good, alwayes to take heed in replan­ting your Trees, that ye do set them again, in as good or bet­ter Earth, than they were in before, and so every Tree, accor­ding as his nature doth require.

What Trees love the faire Sun, what Trees the cold Ayre.

COmmonly the most part of Trees, do love the Sunne at Noon, and yet the South Wind (or vent d'aval) is very contrary against their nature, and specially the Almond-tree, the Apricock, the Mulberry-tree, the Fig-tree, and the Pom­granade-tree. Certain other Trees there be which love cold Ayre, as these: the Chesnut-tree, the wild and eager Cherry-tree, the Quince-tree, and the Damson or Plum▪tree, the Wal­nut loveth cold Ayre, and a stony white ground. Pear-trees love not greatly plain places, they prosper well enough in places closed with walls, or high Hedges, and specially the Pear called bon Christien.

Of many sorts and manner of Trees following their nature.

THe Damson or Plum tree doth love a cold fat earth, and clay withall, the (Healm) great Cherry doth love to be set or planted upon Clay. The Pine-tree loveth light earth, stony and sandy. The Medlar commeth well enough in all kinde of grounds, and doth not hinder his fruit, to be in the shadow and moist places. Hasel nut trees love the place to be cold, lean, moist and sandy. Ye shall understand, that every kind of fruitful Tree doth love, and is more fruitfull in one place, than another, as according unto their nature. Never­theless, yet we ought to nourish them (all that we may) in the place where we set them in, in taking them from the place & [Page 40] ground they were in. And ye must also consider when one doth plant them of the great and largest kind of Trees, that every kind of Tree may prosper and grow, and it is to be considered also if the Trees have commonly grown afore so large in the ground or not, for in good earth the Trees may well prosper and grow, having a good space one from ano­ther, more than if the ground were lean or naught.

How to place or set Trees at large.

IN this thing ye shall consider, ye must give a competent space from one Tree to another, when as you make the holes to set them in, not nigh, nor the one tree to touch ano­ther. For a good Tree planted or set well at large, it profit­eth ofttimes more of fruit than three or four Trees set too nigh together. The greatest and largest Trees commonly are Wallnuts and Chesnuts, if ye plant them severally in ranks, as they do commonly grow upon high-ways, besides hedges and fields, set them xxxv foot asunder, one from another or thereabout, but if ye will plant many ranks in one place together, ye must set them the space of xlv foot one from a­nother, or thereabout, and so far you must set your ranks one from another. For the Pear-trees and Apple-trees, and of other sort of Trees, which may be set of this largenesse one from the other, if ye plant onely in ranks by hedges in the fields or otherwise, it shall be sufficient of xx foot from one another. But if you will set two ranks upon the sides of your great allies in gardens, which be ten or twelve foot broad, it shall be then best to give them more space, the one from the other in each rank, as about xxv foot, also ye must not set your Trees right one against another, but entermed­ling, or between every space, as they may best grow at large, that if need be, ye mae plant other small Trees between, but see that ye set them not to thick. If ye list to set or plant all your Trees of one bignesse, as of young Trees like rods, be­ing Peare-trees or Apple-trees, they must be set a good distance one from another, as of twenty or thirty foot in [Page 41] square, as to say one rank to another. But to plant or set of smaller Trees, as Plum-trees and Apple-trees, of the like bignesse, it shall be sufficient for them fourteene or fifteene foot space in quarters. But if ye will plant or set two ranks in your Allies in gardens, ye must devise for to proportion it after the largenesse of your said Allies. For to plant eager or lower Cherrie-trees, this space shall be sufficient enough the one from the other, that is of x or xii foot, and therefore if you make of great or large Allyes in your Garden, as of x foot wide or thereabouts, they shall come well to passe, and shall be sufficient to plant your Trees of nine or ten foote space, and for the other lesser sorts of Trees, as of Quince-trees, Fig-trees, Nut-trees, and such like, which be not com­monly planted, but in one rank together.

Ordering your Trees.

WHen that ye plant or set ranks, or every kind of trees together, ye shall set or plant the smallest to­wards the Sun, and the greatest in the shade, that they may not annoy or hurt the small, nor the small the great. Also whensoever ye will plant or set Pear-trees, and Plum-trees, in any place the one with another, better it were to set the Plum-trees next the Sun, for the Peares will dure better in the shade. Also ye must understand when you set or plant a­ny ranks of Trees together, ye must have more space betwixt your ranks and Trees than when you set but one rank, that they may have roome sufficient on every side.

Ye shall also scarcely set or plant Peare-trees, or Apple-trees, or other great Trees upon dead or mossie barren ground unstirred; for they increase thereon to no purpose. But other lesser Trees very well may grow, as Plum-trees, and such like: now when all the aforesaid things above be considered, ye shall make your holes according to the space that shall be required of every tree ye shall plant or set, and also the place fit for the same, so much as ye may convenient, ye shall make your holes large enough, for ye must suppose [Page 42] the tree you doe set, hath not the half of his roots he shall have hereafter; therefore ye must help him and give of good fat earth (or dung) all about the roots, when as ye plant him. And if any of the same roots be too long, and bruised or hurt, ye shall cut them clean off aslope wise, so that the upper side of each root so cut may be longest in setting, and for the small roots which come forth all about thereof, ye may not cut them off as the great roots.

How ye ought to enlarge the holes for the Trees when you plant them.

FOr when ye set the Trees in the holes, ye must then en­large the roots in placing them, and see that they take all downwards, without turning any roots the ends up­ward, and you must not plant or set them too deep in the earth, but as ye shall see cause. It shall be sufficient for them to be planted or set half a foot or thereabouts in the earth, so that the earth be above all the roots half a foot or more, if the place be not very burning and stony.

Of Dung and good Earth for your Plants and Trees.

ANd as ye would replant or set, you must have of good fat earth or dung, well mingled with a part of the same earth, out of which you took your plant,, with all the up­per crusts of the earth, as thick as you can have it: the said earth which ye shall put about the roots, must not be put too nigh the roots, least the dung being laid too nigh, the roots should be put into a heat: but let it be well mingled with the other earth, and well tempered in the holes, and the smallest and slenderest Cions that turnes up among those roots ye may plant very well.

If you have wormes amongst the earth of your roots.

IF there be wormes in the fat Earth or Dung, that ye put about your roots, ye must also well mingle it with the [Page 43] dung of Oxen or Kine, or slak'd Sope-ashes about the root, which will destroy those worms which would have destroy­ed the Roots.

To dig well the Earth about the Trese Rootes.

ALso ye must dig well the earth, principally all round o­ver the roots, and oftner if they be dry, than if they be wet: ye must not plant or set Trees when it raineth, nor the earth to be very moist about the roots. The Trees that be planted or set in Vallies, commonly prosper well by drought: and when it raineth, they that be on the Hills are better by watering with drops than others: and if the ground be moist by nature, you must plant or set your trees not so deep therein.

The nature of Places.

ON high and dry places, ye must plant and set your Trees a little deeper than in the Vallies, and ye must not fill the holes in high places so full as the other, to the end that the rain may better moisten them.

Of good Earth.

VNderstand also that of good earth commonly cometh good fruit, but in certain places (if they might be suf­fered to grow) they would season the tree the better; other­wise they shall not come to proof, or have a good tast.

With what ye ought to bind your Trees.

VVHensoever your Trees shall be replanted or set, ye must knock by the root a stake, and bind your trees thereto for feare of the wind, and when they doe spring, ye shall dresse them and bind them with bands that will not break, you may make them of strong soft hearbs, as Bulrush or such like, or of old linnen clouts, if the other be not strong enough, or else ye may bind them with Oziars, or such like, least you hurt or fret your Trees.

CHAP. VII. Of medicining and keeping the Trees when they are planted.

The first counsel is, when your Trees be but Plants, in dry weather they must be watered.

THe young trees that be newly planted, must sometimes in Summer be watered when the time waxeth dry, at the least the first year after they be planted or set. But as for the greater Trees which are both well taken and rooted a good time, ye must dig them all over the Roots after Al­hallontide, and uncover them foure or five foot compasse a­bout the root of the Tree: and let them so lie uncovered until the latter end of Winter. And if ye doe, then mingle about each tree of good fat earth or dung, to heat and com­fort the earth withall, it shall be good.

With what Dung ye ought to dung your Trees.

ANd principally unto Mossie trees, dung them with Hogs dung mingled with other earth of the same ground, and let the dung of Oxen be next about the roots, and ye shall also abate the Mosse of the Trees with a great knife of wood or such like, so that ye hurt not the barke thereof.

When ye ought to uncover your Trees in Summer.

IN the time of Summer, when the earth is scantly halfe moist, it shall be good to dig at the foot of the Trees, all about on the root, such as have not been uncovered in the Winter before, and to mingle it with good fat earth: and so fill it againe, and they shall doe well.

When ye ought to cut and proine your Trees

ANd if there be in your Trees certain branches of super­fluous wood that ye will cut off, tary til the time of the entring in of the Sap, that is, when they begin to bud, as in March and April: Then cut off, as ye shall see cause, all such superfluous Branches hard by the Tree, that thereby the o­ther Branches may prosper the better, for then they shall sooner close their sap upon the cut places than in the win­ter, which should not doe so well to cut them, as some doe teach which have no experience. But forasmuch as in this time the Trees be entring into the sap, as is aforesaid. Take heed therefore then in cutting off your great Branches hasti­ly, that through their great weight, they doe not cleave or separate the bark from the Tree in any part thereof.

How to cut your great Branches, and when.

ANd for the better remedy, first you shall cut the same great Branches, halfe a foot from the tree, and after to saw the rest cleane hard by the body of the tree, then with a broad Chizel cut all clean and smooth upon that place, then cover it with Oxe dung. Ye may also cut them well in win­ter, so that ye leave the trunke or branch som [...]what longer, so as ye may dresse and cut them again in March and April, as is before mentioned.

How ye ought to leave the great Branches cut.

OTher things here are to be shewed of certain graffs and old trees onely, which in cutting the great branches truncheon-wise doe renue again, as W [...]lnuts, Mulberry-trees, Plum-trees, Cherry-trees, with others, the bough [...] whereof ye must disbranch even after Alhallontide, or so soon as their leaves be fallen off, and likewise before they begin to enter into the Sap.

Of Trees having great Branches.

THe said great Branches, when ye shall disbranch them, ye shall so cut them off in such Truncheons, to lengthen the Trees, that the one may be longer than the other, that when the Cions be grown good and long thereon, ye may graffe on them again as ye shall see cause, according as every arm shall require.

Of barrennesse of Trees, the time of cutting all Bran­ches and uncovering the Roots.

SOmetimes a man hath certain old Trees, which be almost spent, as of the Pear-trees, and Plum-trees, and other great Trees, the which bear scant of fruit: but when as ye shall see some Branches well charged therewith, then ye ought to cut off the other ill Branches and Boughs, to the end that those that remain, may have the more S [...]p to nourish their fruit, and also to uncover their root after Alhallontide, and to cleave the greatest roots thereof (a foot from the trunk) and put into the said clefts a thin slate of hard stone, there let it remain, to the end that the humour of the Tree may enter out thereby, and at the end of Winter ye shall cover him again with as good fat earth as ye can get, and let the stone alone.

Trees which ye must help or pluck up by the Roots.

ALL sorts of Trees which spring Cions from the Roots, as Plum-trees, all kind of Cherry-tres, and small Nut-trees ye must help in plucking their Cions from their roots in Winter, as soon as conveniently ye can, after the leaf is fallen. For they do greatly pluck down and weaken the said trees, in drawing to them the substance of the earth.

What doth make a good Nut.

BUt chiefly to plant these Cions, the best way is to let them grow and be nourished two or three years from [Page 47] the root, and then to transplant them, and set them in the Winter, as is aforesaid, the Cions which be taken from the foot of the Hasell-trees, make good Nuts, and to be of much strength and vertue, when they are not suffered to grow too long from the Root, or foot aforesaid.

Trees eaten with beasts must be graffed again.

WHen certain graffes being well in Sap, of three or four years, or thereabouts, be broken or greatly endammaged with beasts, which have broken thereof, it shall little profit to leave those Graffes so, but it were better to cut them, and to graffe them higher, or lower than they were before. For the Graffes shall take as well upon the new as old Cion being graffed, as on the wild stock: but it shall not so soon close, as upon the wild stock-head.

How your wild Stocks ought not hastily to be removed.

IN the beginning when you have graffed your graffes on the wild Stock, do not then hastily pluck up those Cions or wild stocks so graffed, untill ye shall see the graffes put forth a new shoot, the which remaining still, ye may graffe there­on again, so that your Graffes in hasty removing, may chance to dye.

When ye cut off the naughty Cions from the Wood.

WHen your graffes on the Stocks shall put forth of new wood, or a new shoot, as of two or three foot long, and if they put forth also of other small superfluous Cion [...] (about the said members or branches that ye would nourish) cut off all such ill Cions hard by the head, in the same year they are graffed in, but not so long as the wood is in Sappe, till the Winter after.

How sometimes to cut the principal Members.

ALso it is good to cut some of the principall Members or Branches in the first yeare, if they have too many, and then again within two or three years after, when they shall be well sprung up, and the graffs well closed on the head of the stock: ye may trim and dresse them again, in taking away the superfluous branches, if any there remain, for it is sufficient enough to nourish a young tree, to leave him one principall Member on the head, so that it may be one of those that hath been graffed on the tree before, yea, and the tree shall be fairer and better in the end, than if he had two or three branches, or precidence at the foot. But if the tree have been graffed with many great Cions, then you must leave him more largely, according as ye shall see cause or need, to recover the clefts on the head of the said graffe or [...]ocke.

How to guide and governe the said Trees.

WHen your trees doe begin to spring, ye must order and see to them well, for the space of three or four yeares or more, until they be well and strongly growne, in helping them above, in cutting the small twigs and superfluous wood, until they be so high without branches, as a man, or more if it may be, and then see to them well, in placing the the principall branches, if need be, with forks or wands pricked right and well about them at the foot, and to proin them, so that one branch approach not too nigh the other, nor yet the one fret the other, when as they doe enlarge and grow, and ye must also cut off certaine branches from them where they are too thick.

A kind of sicknesse in Trees.

LIkewise when certain trees are sick of the Gall, which is a kind of sicknesse that doth eat the bark, therefore you must cut it, and take out all the same infection with a [Page 49] little Chizel, or such like thing. This must be done at the end of Winter, then put Oxe dung or Hogs dung upon the infected place, and bind it fast thereon with Clouts, and wrap it with Oziars, and so let it remaine a long time, un­til it have recovered again.

Trees which have wormes in the Barke.

OF trees which have wormes within their Barkes, you shall know them when as you shall see a swelling or ri­sing therein, therefore you must cut or cleave the said barke unto the wood, that the humour may distil out thereat, and with a little hook you must pluck or draw out the said wormes with all the rotten wood you can see, then shall you put upon the said place a plaister made of Oxe dung or Hogs dung, mingled and beaten with Sage, and a little un­flaked Lime, then let it be well boyled together, and wrap it on a cloth, and bind it fast and close thereon so long as it will hold. The Lees of Wine shed or poured upon the roots of trees, which be somewhat sick through the coldnesse of the earth, which Lees do them much good.

Snayles, Ants and Wormes do marre the Trees.

ALso ye must take heed of all manner of young trees, and especially of those graffes, which are endammged and hurt in the Summer time by Wormes and Flies, those are the Snayles, the Pismires or Ants: the field Snaile, which doth hurt also all other sorts of Trees that be great, chiefly in the time the Cuckoe doth sing, and betwixt April and Midsummer while they be tender. There be little beasts called Sowes which have many Legs, and some of them be gray, some black, and some of them have a long sharpe snowt, which be very noysome, and great hurters of young Graffes, and other young trees also, for they cut them off in eating the tender top of the young Cions the length of a mans fin­ger.

How you ought to take the said Wormes.

FOr to take them well, ye must take heed and watch in the heat of the day your young trees, and where you shall see any, put your hand softly underneath, without shaking the tree, for they will suddenly fall ere one thinketh to take them: therefore so soone as you can (that they flye not away nor fall) take them quickly on the Cion with your other hand.

To keep Ants from young trees.

FOr to keep the young trees from Snailes and Ants, it shall be good to take Ashes, and to mix unslak't Lime, beaten in powder therewith, then lay it about the root of the tree, and when it raineth, they will be beat downe into the ashes and die: but you must renue your ashes after every rain from time to time: also to keep them moist, ye must put certain small Vessels full of water at the foot of your said trees, and also the lees of wine to spread on the ground thereabouts. For the best destroying of the small Snailes on the trees, ye must take good heed in the Spring time, before the trees be leaved, then if ye shall see, as it were small warts, knobs or branches on the Trees, the same will be Snayles. Provide to take them away fair and softly before they be full closed, and take heed that ye hurt not the wood or bark of the said Tree, as little as ye can, then burne those Branches on the Earth, and tread them under your feet, and then if any doe remain or renew, look in the heat of the day, and if ye can see any, which will commonly be on the clefs or forks of the Branches, and also upon the Branches lying like toftes or Troops together, then wrap your hands all over with old clothes, and bind leaves beneath them and above them, and with your two hands rub them down therein, and im­mediately fire it, if you doe not quickly with diligence, they will fall, and if they fall on the earth, ye will hardly kill them, but they will renew again: these kind of wormes are [Page 51] noisome flies, which be very strange, therefore take heed that they doe not cast a certaine rednesse on your face and body, for whereas they be many of them, they be dangerous, it is st [...]ange to tell of these kind of Wormes, if ye come under or among the Trees where many be, they will cast your face and hands, your covered body (as your neck, breast, and armes) full of small spots, some red, some black some blu­ish, which will tingle, and trouble you like so many nettles, sometimes for a day, or a day and a night after: they be most on Plum-trees and Apple-trees nigh unto moist places, and ill ayres: yet neverthelesse, by the grace of God there is no danger, that I understand to be taken by them, that if it be in the evening or in the morning, when it raineth, they will remain about the graffing place of the Tree, there­fore it will be hard to find them, because they are so small: Moreover, if such branches doe remaine in the upper part of the boughs all under, then with a wispe on a Poles end, set fire on all and burne them.

A Note in Spring time of Fumigations.

HEre is to be understood and noted, that in the spring time onely, when trees begin to put forth leaves and blossoms, ye must then alwayes take heed unto them to defend them from the F [...]ost, if there be any, with Fumigations or smokes, made on the windy sides of your Orchards, or under your trees with Straw, Hay, dry Chaffe, dry Oxe-dung, Saw-dust dryed in an Oven, Tanners Oze dryed likewise, Galbanum, old shoes, Thatch of houses, haire and such like, one of these to be mixt with another: all these be good against the Frost in Spring time, and especially good against the East-wind, which breedeth (as some say) the Caterpiller worme.

To defend from the Caterpiller.

ANd some doe defend their Trees from the Caterpiller, when the blossoming time is dry (if there be not a Frost) by casting on water, or salt water, every second or [Page 52] third day upon their trees, with instruments for the same purpose, as with Squirts of Wood or Brasse or such like, for in keeping them moist, the Caterpillar cannot breed there­on; this experience I have known proved of late to be good. For to conclude, he that will set or plant trees, must not passe for any pains, but to tak [...] pleasure and delight there­in, considering the great profit that cometh thereby: Against scarcenesse of Corne, Fruit is a very good stay for the Poore, and often it hath been seen, one Acre of Or­chard ground, worth 4 acres of Wheat ground. *⁎*

FINIS.

Here followeth a little TREATISE How one may Graffe, Plant, and Garden, subtily or artificially, and to make many things in Gardens very strange.

FOr to graffe a subtle way, take one oylet or eye of a Graffe, slit it round, above & beneath, and then behind downe-right, then wreathe him off, and set him upon another Cion, as great as he is, then dresse him as is aforesaid, and he shall grow and beare.

To graffe one Vine upon another.

BUt to graff one Vine upon another, ye shall cleave him as ye doe other trees, and then put the Vine graff in the cleft, then stop him well and close with Wax, and so bind him and, he shall grow.

YE shall uncover his root, and make a hole with a Piercer or small Augur in the greatest root he hath, without piercing through the root, then put a pin in the said hole of dry Wood, as Oake or Ashe, and so let it remine in the [Page 54] said hole, and stop it close againe with wax, and then cast earth and cover him againe, and he shall beare the same yeare.

For to have Peaches two moneths before others

TAke your Cions of a Peach-tree that doth soon blossom in the Spring time, and graffe them upon a frank Mul­berry-tree, and he shall bring of peaches two moneths be­fore others.

To have Damsons or Plums unto Alhallontide.

FOr to have Damsons all Summer long, even unto Al­hallontide, and of many other kind of sorts likewise, ye shall graffe them upon the gooseberry-tree, upon the franke Mulberry-tree, and upon the Cherry, and they shall endure on the Trees till Alhallontide.

To make Medlars, Cherries, and Peaches in eating to tast like Spices.

TO make Medlars, Cherries, and Pears to tast in the eating pleasant like spice, which may also keep until the new come again, ye shall graffe them upon the frank Mulberry-tree, as I have before declared, and in the graffing ye shall wet them in hony, and put a little of the powder of some good spices, as the pouder of Cloves, Cinamon or Ginger.

To make a Muscadel tast.

TO make a Muscadel tast, take a Gouge or Chizel of Iron, and cut your Sap round about, then put in your gouge, or chizel under your Sap on your Cion, and raise three eys or eylets round about, and so take off softly your barke round about, and when he is so taken off, annoint it all over within the barke with powder of Cloves or Nutmegs, then set it on againe, stop it close with Wax round about, [Page 55] insomuch that no water may enter in, and within three times bearing, they shall bring a faire Muscadel Reison, which you may after both graffe and plant, and they shall be all after a Muscadel fruit, some slit the barke downe and so put in the spice.

To set Apples and Peares to come without blossoming.

FOr to make Apples and Pears, and other sorts of fruit to come without blossoming, that is, ye shall graffe them as ye doe other kind of fruit upon Fig-trees.

To have Apples and Chesnuts rath, and also long on Trees.

FOr to have Apples called (in French) de blanc Durell, or de Yroal, and of Chesnuts very rath, and long (as until Alhallontide,) on the trees, and make such fruit also to en­dure the space of two yeares, ye shall graffe them on a later-ward fruit, as Pome-Richard, or upon a pear-tree, or Apple-tree of Dangoise.

To have good Cherries on the Trees at Alhallontide.

TO have Cherries on many trees, good for to eat until Alhallontide, ye shall graffe them upon a frank Mulberry-tree, likewise graffe them upon a Willow or Sallow-tree, and they shall endure unto Alhallontide on the Tree.

To have rath Medlars two moneths before other [...]

FOr to have Medlars two moneths sooner than others: and the one shall be better farre than the other, ye shall graffe them upon a Gooseberry-tree, and also a frank Mul­berry-tree, and before ye doe graffe them, ye shall wet them in Hony, and then so graffe them.

For to have rath or timely Peares.

FOr to have a rath Peare, the which is in France, as the Peare Cailonet, and the Peare Hastimean. For to have [Page 56] them rathe or soon, ye shall graffe them on the Pine-tree: And for to have them late, ye shall graff them on the Pear, called in French Dangoise, or on other like hard Peares,

To have Mispels or Medlars without Stones.

FOr to have Medlars without stones, which shall tast as sweet as hony, ye shall graffe them as the other, upon an Eglentine, or sweet Bryar-tree, and ye shall wet the graffes before ye graffe them in Hony.

To have Peares betimes.

ALso to have the peare Anguise, or Permaine, or Satigle, (which be of certaine places so called) a Moneth or two before others, which shall endure and be good until the new come again, ye shall graffe them upon a Quince-tree, and likewise upon the frank Mulberry-tree.

To have ripe or frank Mulberries very soon and late.

FOr to have frank or ripe Mulberries very soone, ye shall graff them upon a rath peare-tree, and upon the Goose­berry-tree, and to have very late, and to endure unto Alhal­lontide, ye shall graffe them on the Medlar-tree.

To keepe Peares a year.

HOw to keep peares a year, ye shall take fine salt very dry, and put thereof with your peares into a barrell, in such sort that one Peare doe not touch another, so fill the bar­rel if ye list, then stop it, and let it stand in some dry place, that the Salt wax not moist, thus you may keep them long and good.

To have your fruit tast half Apples, half Peares.

IF you will have your fruit tast halfe Peare, and halfe an Apple, ye shall in the spring take the graffs, the one a peare [Page 57] and the other an Apple, ye shall cleave or pare them in the graffing joynt or place, and joyne halfe the Peare Cion, and halfe Apple Cion, set them into your stock, and see that no raine enter therein upon your joynt, the fruit shall bring thee halfe a Peare, the other halfe an Apple in tast.

Times of Graffing.

IT is good to graff one or two dayes before the change, and no more, for look so many more dayes as ye shall graff be­fore them, so many more years it will be ere your trees shall bring fruit: It is also good graffing in the increase of the Moone, but the sooner after the change the better.

To graffe the Quine Apple.

IF ye graffe the Quine Apple upon an Apple-stock, he will not long continue without the Canker, and if you graffe him on a knotty young crab-stock, he shall endure long without the Canker.

To destroy Pismires or Ants about a Tree.

TO destroy Emets or Auts which be about a Tree, if ye re­move and stir the earth about the root of the said Tree, then put thereon all about a great quantity of the foote of a Chimny, and the Ants and Pismires will either be gone or shortly die.

Another for the same.

TO destroy Ants another way, take of the Saw-dust of Oake wood onely, and strew that about the Trees root, and the next raine that falleth, all the Pismires and Ants shall die there. For Earewigs, shoes stopt with Hay, and hanged on the Tree one night, they come all in.

To have Nuts, Plums and Almonds greater than other

To have great Nuts, and Plums, and Almonds greater than others, ye shall take four Nuts or of any of this [Page 58] fruit abovesaid, and put them into a pot of earth, joyning the one to the other as nere as you can, then make a hole in the bottom of the pot, through the which holes these Nuts shall be constrained to issue, and being so constrained for to issue, shall come to perfection and grow together as in one Tree, Which in time shall bring his fruit greater and arger then others.

To make an Oake or other Tree as green in Winter, as in Summer.

ALso to make an Oake or other Tree to be green aswel in Winter as in Summer, ye shall take the graffe of an Oke tree, or other Tree, and graffe it upon the Holly tree; the best and surest way is, to graffe one through the other. and who so will make an Orchard, he ought (if he can) to make it in a moist place, whereas the South winds or Sea winds may have recourse unto them.

The time of Planting with Roots and without Roots.

ALso the best time to plant or set without roots, as with branches or stevering [...] of all sorts of Trees, which hath a pith as Fig-trees, Hazel-trees, Mulberry-trees, and Vines, with other like trees, which ought to be set from the middest of September, if the leaves be off, until Alhallontide, and all o­thers Trees with roots, ought to be set in Advent untill Christmas, or presently after, if the time be not very cold and dangerous.

To keep fruit from the Frost.

ALso to keep fruit from the Frost, and in good colour till the new come again, ye ought so to gather them when the time is faire and dry, and the Moon in her decreasing, & that they lye also in dry places by night covered thinn with wheat straw, and if the time of winter be cold and very hard, then put Hay above them in your straw, and take it away [Page 59] when as a fair time cometh, and thus ye shall keep your fruit faire and good.

The dayes to plant and graffe.

ALso, as some say, from the first day of the new Moon, unto the xiii. day thereof, is good to plant, or graffe, or sow, and for great need some take unto the xvii. or xviii. day thereof, and not after either graffe or sow, but as is afore mentioned, a day or two dayes before the change, the best signes are Taurus, Ʋirgo and Capricorne.

To have green Roses all the year.

FOr to have green Roses, ye shall as, some say, take your Rose buds in the Spring time, and then graffe them upon the Holly-stock, and they shall be green all the year.

To keep Raisons or Grapes good a year.

FOr to keep Raisons or Grapes good a whole yeare, ye shall take of fine dried sand, and then lay your Raisons or grapes therein, and it shall keep them good a whole year. Some keep them in a close Glasse from the ayre.

To make fruit laxative from the Tree.

FOr to make any fruit laxative from the Tree, what fruit soever it be, make a hole in the stock, or in the master-root of the Tree (with a piercer slope-wise) not through, but unto the pith, or somewhat further, then fill the said hole with the juyce of Elder, Centory, Senith or Turbith, or such like laxatives, then fill the said holes therewith of which of them ye will, or else you may take three of them together, and fill the said hole therewith, and then stop the said hole close with soft wax, then lay it thereon, and put mosse all over, so that nothing may fall out, and for ever after the fruit of the Tree shall be laxative.

A Note for all grafters and Planters.

ALso whensoever ye shall plant or graffe, it shall be meet and good for you to say as followeth. In the name of God the Father, the Son, and the Holy Ghost, Amen. Increase and multiply, and replenish the earth: and say the Lords Prayer, then say: Lord God heare my Prayer, & let this my desire be heard of thee. The holy Spirit of God, which hath created all things for Man, and hath given them for our comfort, in thy name, O LORD, we set, plant, and graffe, desiring that by thy mighty power they may increase & multiply upon the earth, in bear­ing plenty of fruit, unto the profit and comfort of all the faithfull people, through Christ our Lord Amen. *⁎*

[depiction of a man attaching a graft to a tree-stump, with two nearby trees already grafted]

Here followeth certain waies of Planting or Graffing, with other necessaries herein meet to be known.

Translated out of Dutch, by L. M.

To graffe one Vine upon another.

YOu that will graffe one Vine upon another, ye shall (in January) cleave the head of the Vines, as ye doe other stocks, and then put in your Vine Graffe or Cion, but first you must pare him thin, ere ye set him in the head, then clay and mosse him as the other.

Chosen dayes to graffe in, and choose your Cions.

ALso whensoever that ye will graffe, your choicest time will be on the last day before the change, and also in the [Page 62] Change, as also upon the second day after the change, if ye graffe (as some report) on the third, fourth, or fifth day after the change, it will be many years ere those trees bring forth fruit. Ye may believe it, but I will not. Some think it is good graffing from the change unto the xviii day thereof, this I think good the Moon increasing, the sooner the better.

To gather your Cions.

ALso such Cions or Graffs, which you get on other trees, the young Trees of three, four, five or six years growth are best to take graffs. Take them of no under boughs, but in the top on the East side, if ye can, and the fairest and greatest. Ye shall cut them two inches long of the old wood beneath the joynt. And when you graff, cut them taper-wise from the joynt two inches or more of length, which set into the stock, and before you set it in, open your stock with a wedg of Iron or hard wood softly; then if the sides of your clefts be rag­ged, pare them on both sides with the point of a sharp knife within and above, then set in your graffes close on the out­sides, and also above, but let your stock be as little while o­pen as ye can, and when your graffs be well set in, pluck out your wedge, and if your stocks do pinch your graffs much, then ye must put in a wedge of the same wood to help your graffs: then lay a thick bark or peel over the cleft from the one graff to the other, to keep out the clay and rain, and clay them two fingers thick round about the clefts, then lay on mosse, but wool is better next your clay, or temper your clay with wool or hair, for it will abide closer and stronger on the stock head, some take wool next the clay, and wrap it all over with linnen cloths, for the wool being once moist will keep the clay so a long time. Others take woollen clouts, that have been laid in the juyce of Worm-wood or such like bitter thing, to keep creeping worms from coming under to the graffs. If ye graff or plant in the Winter, put your clay uppermost, for Summer your Mosse. For in Winter the Mosse is warme, and your clay will not cleave. In Summer [Page 63] your clay is cold, and your Mosse keeps him from cleaving or chapping. To bind them take Willow peels, cloven B [...]y­ars, Oziars and such like. To gather your graffe on the East part, of the Tree is counted best; if ye gather them below on the under-boughs, they will grow flaggie and spreading a­broad: If ye take them in the top of the Tree, they will grow upright. Yet some doe gather their Cions or graffes on the sides of the Trees, and so graffe them againe on the like sides of the stocks, which by some men is not counted so good for fruit. It is not good to graff a great stocke, for they will be long ere they cover the head thereof.

Of Worms in Trees or Fruit

IF ye have any Trees eaten with worms, or bring wormy fruit, wash his body and great branches with two parts of Cow-pisse and one of Vinegar, and if you can get no Vine­gar, with Cow-pisse alone tempered with common Ashes. This must be done before the Spring, in the Spring or Sum­mer. Anniseeds sown about the Trees roots drive away worms, and the fruit will be the sweeter.

The setting of Stones and ordering of them.

AS for Almond Trees, Peach▪trees Cherry-trees Plum-trees, or other, plant or set them thus. Lay first the stones in water three dayes and four nights until they sinke therein, then take them betwixt your finger and your thumb with the small end upward, and so set them two fingers deep in good earth, and when ye have so done, ye shall rake them all over, and so cover them, and when they begin to gr [...]w or spring, keep them from weeds, and [...]hey will prosper the bet­ter, specially in the first yeare. And within two or three year after ye shall set or remove them where you list, if ye re­move them after that, ye must proin off all his twigs, as ye see cause, nigh the stock: This ye may doe with all kind of Trees, chiefly such as have the great Sap, as the Mulberry or Fig-trees, or such like.

his twigs, as ye shall see cause, nigh the stock: this ye may doe of all kind of Trees, but especially those which have the great Sap, as the Mulberry or Fig-trees or such like.

Togather Gumme of any Tree.

IF ye list to have the Gum of an Almond tree, ye shall stick a great naile into the Tree a good way, and so let him rest, and the Gumme of the Tree shall issue out thereat, thus doe men gather Gumme of all sorts of Trees: yea, the common Gumme that men doe use and occupy.

To set a whole Apple.

ALso some say, that if ye set a whole Apple four fingers in the earth, all the P [...]pins or Curnels in the same Apple, will grow up together in one whole stock or Cion, and all those Apples shall be much fairer and greater than others: but ye must take heed how you set those Apples, which doe come in Leap-year, for in Leap-year (as some doe say) the Curnels or Pepins are turned contrary, for if ye would so set, as commonly a man doth, ye shall set them contrary.

Of setting the Almond.

ALmonds doe come forth and grow commonly well, if they be set without the shell or husk, in good earth or in rotten Hogs dung: If ye lay Almonds one day in Vine­gar, then shall they (as some say) be very good to plant, or lay him in milk or water until he doe sinke, it shall be the better to set, or any other Nut.

Of Pepins watered.

THe Pepins and Curnels of those Trees, which have a thick or rough bark, if ye lay them three dayes in water, or else untill they sink therein, they shall be the better, than set them, or sow them, as is before mentioned, and then re­move them when they be well rooted, or of three or four years growth, and they shall have a thin bark.

To plant or set Vines.

IF ye plant or set Vines, in the first or second year they will bring no fruit, but in the third year they will bear, if they [Page 65] be well kept: ye shall cut them in January, and set them soon after they be cut from the Vine, and ye shall set two together, the one with the old wood, and the other without, and so let them grow, plucking away all weeds from about them, & when ye shall remove them in the second and third year, be­ing well rooted, ye shall set them well a foot deep, (in good fat earth) with good dung, as of one foot deep or therea­bouts, and keep them clean from weeds, for then they will prosper the better, and in Summer, when the Grape is knit, then ye shall break off his top or branch, at one or two joints after the Grape, and so the Grape shall be the greater, and in the Winter when ye cut them, ye shall not leave past two or three leaders on each branch, on some branch but one leader, wch must be cut betwixt two joynts, & ye shall leave the yong Vine to be the leader. Also ye shall leave thereof three or four joynts at all times, if a young Cion do come forth of the old branch, or side thereof, if ye do cut him, ye shall cut him hard by the old branch, and if ye will have him to bring the Grape next year, ye shall leave two or three joynts thereof; for the yong Cion alwayes bringeth the Grape: ye may at all times, so that the Grape be once taken and knit, ever as the superflu­ous Cions do grow, break them at a joynt, or hard by the old branch, and the Grape will be the greater: thus ye may order your Vine all the Summer long without any hurt

To set or plant the Cherry.

CHerry-trees, and all trees of stone-fruit would be planted or set of Cions, and cold Grounds, and places of good earth, and likewise in high or hilly places, dry and well in the shade, if ye do remove, ye ought to remove them in Novem­ber and January, if ye shall see your Cherry-tree wax rotten, then shall ye make a hole in the middest of the body two foot above the ground with a big Piercer, that the humour may passe forth thereby, then afore the Spring shut him up again with a pin of the same tree: thus ye may do unto all other sorts of trees when they begin to rot, is also good for them [Page 66] which bear scant of fruit or none.

To keep Cherries good a year.

FOr to keep Cherries good a year, ye shall cut off the stalks, and then lay them in a well leaded pot, and fill the said pot therewith, then put into them of good thin Honey, and fill the said pot therewith, then stop it with clay that no aire enter in, then set them in some fair Sellar, and put of Sand under and all about it, and cover the pot well withall, so let it stand or remain; thus ye may keep them a year, as fresh as though they came from the Tree, and after this sort ye may keep Pears or other fruit.

Against Pismires.

IF ye have Cherry-trees laden or troubled with Pismires or Ants, ye shall rub the body of the Tree, and all about the root with the juice of Purslane mingled half with Vineger. Some do use to anoint the Tree beneath all about the body with t [...]rr and birds-lime, with wool, oyl, boiled together, and anoint the tree beneath therewith, and lay the Chalk stones all about the Tree root, some say it is good therefore.

The setting of Chesnuts.

THe Chesnut-tree men do use to plant like unto the Fig-tree. They may be both planted and graffed well, they wax well in fresh and fat earth, for in Sand they like not. If ye will set the Curnells, ye shall lay them in water untill they do sink, and those that do sink to the bottome of the water be best to set, which ye shall set in the Moneth of November, and December, foure fingers deep, a foot one from another, for when they be in these two Moneths Set or Planted, they shall endure long, and bear also good fruit, yet some there be that Plant or Set them first in dung like Beans, which will be sweeter than the other sort, but those which be set in these two Moneths aforesaid, shall first bear their fruit, men may prove which is best, experience doth teach.

This is another way to prove and know, which Chesnuts be best to plant or set, that is, ye shall take a quantity of nuts, [Page 67] then lay them in Sand the space of thirty dayes, then take and wash them in water fair and clean, and throw them into water again, and those which do sink to the bottome, are good to plant or set, and the other that swim are naught; thus may ye do with all other Curnels or nuts.

To have all stone fruit taste, as ye shall think good.

IF ye will have all stone-fruit tast as ye shall fansie or think good, ye shall first lay your stones to soke in such liquor or moisture, as ye will have the fruit tast of, and then set them, as for the Date tree (as some say) he bringeth no fruit, except he be a hundred year old, and the Date-stone must soke one Moneth in the water before he be set, then shall ye set him with the small end upward in good fat earth, in hot Sandy ground four fingers deep, and when the boughs do begin to spring, then shall ye every night sprinckle them with rain water, or other (if ye have none) so long till they be come forth and grown.

Of graffing the Medlar and Misple.

FOr to graffe the Medlar or Misple: men do use to graffe them on the White Hathorn Tree, they will prove well, but yet small and sowr fruit, to graffe one Medlar upon a­nother is the better, some men do graffe first the Wilding Ci­on upon the Medlar stock, and so when he is well taken and grown, then they graffe thereon the Medlar again, the which doth make them more sweet, very great and fair.

Of the Fig-tree.

THe Fig-tree in some Country beareth his fruit foure times a Year, the black Figges are the best being dryed in the Sunne, and then laid in a Vessell in beddes one by another, and then sprinckled or strawed all over, every Lay with fine Meal, then stop it up, and so it is sent out of that Land. If the Fig-tree will not beare, ye shall digge [Page 68] him all about, and under the roots in February, and take out then all his earth, and put unto him the dung of a Privy, for that he liketh best: ye may mingle with it other fat earth, as Pigeons Dung mingled with Oyl, and Pepper stampt, which shall forward him much to anoint his roots therwith: ye shall not plant the Fig-tree in cold times, he loveth hot, stony, or gravelly ground, and to be planted in Autumne is best.

Of the Mulberry-tree.

IF ye will plant the Mulberry-tree, the Fig-tree, or others which bring no seed, ye shall cut a twig or branch (from the tree root) of a years growth, with the old wood or bark, about a cubit long, which ye shall plant or set in all the earth saven shaftment long to it, and so let it grow, water­ing it as ye shall see need. This must be done before the leaves be in to spring, but take heed ye cut not the end or top a­bove, for then it shall wither and dry.

Of trees that bear bitter fruit.

OF all such Trees as bear bitter fruit, to make them bring sweeter, ye shall uncover all the roots in January, and take out all that earth, then put unto them of Hogs dung great plenty, and then after put unto them of other good earth, and so cover them therewithall well again, and their fruit shall have a sweeter taste. Thus men m [...]y do with other Trees which bring bitter fruit.

To help barren Trees.

HEre is another way to help barren Trees, that they may bring fruit, if you see your Tree not to bear scaree in three or four years good plenty, ye shall bore an hole with an Auger or Piercer in the greatest place of the body, (within a yard of the ground) but not through, but unto or past the heart, ye shall bore him aslope; then take Hony and water mingled together a night before, then put the said Ho­ny [Page 69] and water into the hole, and fill it therewith, then stop it close with a short pin made of the same Tree, not stricken in too far for piercing the liquour.

Another way.

IN the beginning of Winter, ye shall dig those Trees round about the roots, and let them so rest a day and a night, and then put unto them of good earth, mingled well with good store of watred Oats, or with watred Barley or Wheat, laid next unto the roots, then fill it with other good earth, and he shall bear fruit, even as the boring of a hole in the master root, and striking in a pin, and so fill him again, it shall help him to bear, as before is declared.

To keep your fruit.

ALL fruit may be the better kept if ye lay them in dry places, in dry Straw or Hay, but Hay ripeth too sore: or in a Barly mow, not touching one the other, or in Chaffe or in vessels of Juniper, and Cipresse wood: ye may so keep them well in dry Salt or Hony, and upon boards, whereas fire is nigh all the Winter, also hanging nigh fire in the Winter in Nets of Yarn.

The Mulberry-tree.

THe Mulberry-Tree is planted or set by the Fig-tree: his fruit is first sower and then sweet, he liketh neither Dew nor Rain, for they hurt him, he is well pleased with foul earth and dung: his branches will wax dry within every six years, then must ye cut them off, as for other Trees they ought to be proined every year, as yeshall see cause, and they will be the better, and to plant them from the midst of February to the midst of March is best.

Of Mosse of the Tree.

OF the Mosse on your Trees, ye must not let it too long be uncleansed, ye must rub it off with a grate of wood, or arough Hair, or such like, in Winter when they be moist [Page 70] or wet, for then it will off the sooner, for Mosse doth take away the strength and substance of the fruit, and makes the Trees barren at length: when you see your Trees begin to wax Mossie, ye [...]ust in the Winter uncover their roots, and put them under good earth, this shall help them and keep them long without Mosse: for the earth, not stirred about the root, is one cause of Mossinesse, and also the barrennesse of the ground whereon he standeth, and your Mosse doth succour in Winter flies and other Vermin, and so doth therein hide them in Summer, which is occasion of eating the blossomes, and tender Cions thereof.

To keep nuts long.

FOr to keep nuts long, ye shall dry them, and cover them in dry Sand, and put them in a dry Bladder, or in a Fatte made of Walnut-tree, and put of dry Ivie-berries therein, and they shall be much sweeter. To keep Nuts green a year and also fr [...]sh, ye shall put them into a pot with Honey, and they shall continue fresh a year, and the said Hony will be gentle and good for many Medicines. To keep Walnuts fresh and green: in the time of straining of Verjuice, ye shall take of the Pommis, and put thereof in the bottom of a Barrell, then lay your Walnuts all over with Pommis over them, and so Walnuts again, and then of the Pommis, as ye shall see cause to fi [...]l your Uessell. Then stop it close as ye do a Barrell, and set him in your Sellar or other place, and it shall keep your Nuts fresh and green a year. Some use to fill an earthen pot with small Nuts, and put to them dry Sand, and cover them with a Lidde of earth, or stone, and then they clay it, set­ting the mouth of the Pot down-ward, two foot within the earth, in their Garden or other place, and so they will keep very moist and sweet, untill new come.

To cut the Peach-tree.

THe Peach-trree is of this nature, (if he be cut as some say) green, it will wither and dry. Therefore if ye cut any [Page 71] small branch, cut it hard by the body: the withered twigs e­ver as they wither, must be cut off hard by the great branch, or body thereof, for then they prosper the better. If a Peach-tree do not like, ye shall put to his roots the Lees of Wine mingled with water, and also wash his roots therewi [...]h, and likewise the branches; then cover him again with good earth, mingled with his own Leaves, for those he liketh best. Ye may graffe Peach upon Peach, upon Hasel, or Ash, or upon Cher­ry-tree, or ye may graffe the Almond upon the Peach-tree. And to have great Peaches, ye must take Cowes milk, and put good earth thereto, then all to strike the body of the Tree therewith, both upward and downward, or else open the root all bare, three dayes and three nights; then take Goats milk and wash all the roots therewith, and then cover them again; this must be done when they begin to blossome, and so shall he bring great Peaches.

To colour Peach-stones

TO colour Peach-stones that all the fruit therof shall have the like colour here after, that is, ye shall lay or set Peach-stones in the earth seven dayes or more, untill ye shall set the stones begin to open, then take the stones and the curnells softly forth thereof, and what colour ye will colour the cur­nell therewith, and put them into the shell again, then bind it fast together, and set it in the earth, with the small end up­ward, and so let him grow, and all the Peaches which shall come of the same fruit, (graffed or ungraffed) will be of the same colour. The Peach-tree ought to be planted in Autumn, before the cold do come, for he cannot abide the cold.

If Peach-tree be troubled with Worms.

ALso if any Peach-tree be troubl [...]d with worms, ye shall take two parts of Cow-pisse, with one part of Vineger, then shall ye sprinkle the tree all over therewith, and wash his roots and branches also, and it will kill the worms; this may ye do unto all other Trees, which be troubled with Worms.

To have the Peach without stones.

FOr to make the Peach grow without stones, ye shall take a Peach-tree newly planted, then set a Willow hard by, which ye shall bore a hole through, then put the Peach-tree through the said hole, and so close him on both sides thereof Sap to Sap, and let him so grow one year, then the next year ye shall cut off the Peach-stock, and let the Willow feed him, and cut off the upper part of the Willow also three fin­gers high, and the next Winter saw him off nigh the Peach, so that the Willow shall feed but the Peach onely: and this way ye have Peaches without stones.

Another way for the same.

YE shall take the Graffes of Peaches, and graffe them upon the Willow-stock, and so shall your Peaches be likewise without stones.

If Trees do not prosper.

IF ye see that your Trees do not wax nor prosper, take and open the roots in the beginning of January or afore, and in the biggest root thereof, make an hole with an Auger, to the pith or more, then strike therein a pin of Oke, and so stop it again, and let it be well waxt all about the pin, then cover him again with good earth, and he shall do well, some do use to cleave the root.

How to graffe Apples to last on the tree till Alhallontide.

HOw ye may have many sorts of Apples upon your Trees untill Alhallontide, that is, ye shall graffe your Apples upon the Mulberry-tree, and upon the Cherry-tree.

Many Apricot trees of one.

PLant an Apricot in the midst of other Plum-trees round about it, at a convenient distance; then in an apt season, bore through your plum-trees, and let into every one of them, one or two of the branches of your Apricot tree, through those holes, taking away the Bark on both sides of your branches, which you let in, joyning Sap to Sap, and lute [Page 73] the holes up with tempered loam; and when they are well knit, the next year cut off the branch from the Apricot-tree: and so you have gotten many Apricot trees out of one. Take away in time all the head of your plum-tree, and all o­ther branches, maintaining onely that which is gotten from the Apricot. But some commend rather the letting in of a branch of one tree, into the other workmanlike, for the more certain kind of graffing.

To graffe an Apple which shall be half sweet, and half sower.

TO graffe that your Apples shall be the one half sweet, and the other half sower, ye shall take two Cions, the one sweet and the other sower, some do put the one Cion through the other, and so graffe them between the Bark and the Tree; and some again do pare both the Cions finely, and so sets them joyning into the stock, inclosing Sap to Sap, on both the outsides of the graffes, unto the outsides of the stock, and so sets them into the head as the other, and they shall bring fruit, the one half sweet, and the other half sower.

To graffe a Rose on the Holly.

FOR to graffe the Rose, that his leaves shall keep all the year green; Some do take and cleave the Holly, and so graffe in a white or red Rose bud, and then put clay and mosse to him, and let him grow, and some put the Rose bud into a sli [...] of the Bark, and so put Clay and Mosse and bind him featly therein, and let him grow, and he shall carry his leaf all the year.

Of keeping of Plummes

OF Plums there be many sorts, as Damsons which be all black, which be counted the best: All manner of other Plums a man may keep well a year, if they be gathered ripe, and then dryed, and put into Vessels of glasse, if ye can­not dry them well in the Sun, ye shall dry them on hur­dels of Oziers made like Lattice Windows, in a hot Oven after Bread is drawn forth, and so reserve them. If a Plum­tree like not, open his roots, and pour in all about the dregs of Wine mixt with Water, and so cover him well again, or [Page 74] powr on them stale Urine, or stale pisse of old men mixt with two parts of water, and so cover him as before.

Of altering of Pears and stony fruit.

IF a Pear tast hard or gravelly about the core, like small stones, ye shall uncover his roots (in the Winter or afore the Spring) and take out all the earth thereof, and pick out all the stones, as clean from the earth as ye can, about his root then sift that earth, or else take of other good fat earth with­out stones, and fill all his roots again therewith, and he shall bring a soft and gentle Pear to eat, but you must see well to the watering of him often.

The making of Syder and Perry.

OF Apples and Pears men do make Cyder and Perry, and because the use thereof in most places is known, I will here let passe to speak any further thereof, but (in the pressing your Cyder) I will counsell you to keep cl [...]an your vessels, and the place whereas your fruit doth lye, and specially after it is bruised or broken, for then they draw fil­thy air unto them, and if it be nigh, the Cyder shall be infected therewith, and also bear the taste after the infection thereof: therefore tun it as soon as you can into clean and sweet vessels, as into vessels of white wine, or of Sack or of Claret, and such like, for these shall keep your Cyder the better and stronger a long time after: ye may hang a small bag of linnen by a threed down into the lower part of your Vessel, with Powder of Cioves, Mace, Cinamon and Ginger, and such like, which will make your Cyder to have a pleasant t [...]ste.

To help frozen Apples.

OF Apples that be frozen in the cold and extream Win­tyr, The remedy to have the Ice out of them, is this. Ye shall lay them first in cold water a while, and then lay them before the fire or other heat, and they shall come to them­selves again:

To make Apples fall from the Tree

IF ye put of fiery coles under an Apple-tree, and then cast of the powder of Brimstone therein, and the fume thereof ascend up, and touch any Apple that is wet, that Apple shall fall incontinent.

To water Trees in Summer, if they wax dry about the root.

WHereas Apple-trees be set in dry ground, and not dead in the Ground, in Summer if they want moisture, ye may take of Wheat-straw or other, and every evening (or as ye see cause) cast thereon water all about, and it will keep the Trees moist from time to time.

To cherish Apple-Trees.

IF ye use to throw (in Winter) all about your apple-trees on the roots thereof, the Urine of old men, or stale pisse long kept, they shall bring fruit much better, which is good for the Vine also, or if ye sprinckle or anoint your Apple-tree roots with the Gall of a Bull, they will bear the better.

To make an Apple grow in a Glasse.

TO make an Apple grow within a Glasse, take a Glasse what fashion ye list, and put your Apple therein when he is but small, and bind him fast to the Glasse, and the Glasse also to the Tree, and let him grow, thus ye may have Apples of divers proportions, according to the fashion of your Glasse. Thus ye make of Cucumbers, Gourds, or Pomeci­trons the like fashion.

[depiction of a grafted tree]

THese three branches, and Figure of graffing in the shield in Summer is, the first branch sheweth how the Bark is taken off, the middle place sheweth how it is set too, and the last branch sheweth how to bind him on, in saving the oylet or eye from bruising.

To graffe many sorts of Apples on one Tree.

YE may graffe on one Apple-tree at once many kind of Apples, as on every branch a contrary fruit, as is afore de­clared, and of Pears the like; but see as nigh as you can, that all your Cions be of like springing, for else the one will grow, and overshadow the other.

To colour Apples.

TO have coloured Apples, with what colour ye shall think good, ye shall bore a hole slope with an Auger, in the big­gest part of the body of the Tree, unto the middest thereof, [Page 77] or thereabouts, and then look what colour ye will have them of First ye shall take water, and mingle your colour there­with, then stop it up again with a short pin made of the same, wood or Tree, then wax it round about; ye may mingle with the said colour what spice ye list, to make them taste there­after: thus may ye change the colour, and taste of any Apple: Your colours may be of Saffron, Tourn sel, Brasel, Saun­ders, or other what ye shall see good. This must be done be­fore the Spring do come: Some do say, if ye graffe on the O [...]ive stock, or on the Ald [...]r stock, they will bring red Ap­ples. Also they say, to graffe to have fruit without core, ye shall graffe in both the ends of your Cion into the stock, and when they be fast grown to the stock, ye shall cut it in the middest, and let the smaller and grow upward, or else take a Cion, and graffe the small end of the stock downward, and so shall ye have your Apple-tree on St. Lamberts day, (which is the xvii. of September) they shall never waste, consume, nor wax dry, which I doubt.

The setting of Vine Plants.

[depiction of three vines or vine plants set in the earth]

THese Figures do shew, how ye ought to Plant and set in your Vines, two or two together, the one to have a part of the old Tree, and the other may be all of the last Cion, but when ye plant him with a part of the old Tree, he shall com­monly take root sooner than the new Cion; ye must weed them every moneth, and let not the earth be too close above their roots at the first, but now & then loosen it with a Spade as ye shall see a rain past, for then they shall enlarge, and put forth better. Further herein ye shall understand after.

How to proin or cut a Vine in Winter.

[depiction of a pruned vine]

THis Figure sheweth, how all Vines should be proined and cut in a convenient time after Christmas, that when ye cut them, ye shall leave his branches very thin, as ye see by this Figure, ye shall never leave above two or three Leaders at the head of any principal branch, ye must also cut them off in the middest between the knots of the young Cions, for those be the leaders which will bring the grape, the rest and order ye shall understand as followeth,

Of the Vine and Grape.

SOmewhat I intend to speak of the ordering of the Vine and Grape, to Plant or Set the Vine, the Plants or Sets which be gathered from the Vine (and so planted) are best, they must not be old gathered, nor lye long unplanted after th [...]y be out, for then they soon gather corruption, and when ye gather your Plants, take heed to cut and choose them, whereas ye may, with the young Cion take a j [...]ynt of the old [Page 79] wood with the new, for the old wood will sooner take root than the new, and better to grow than if it were all young Ci­on, ye shall leave the old wood to the young Cion a foot or half a foot, or a shaftment long, the young Cion ye must cut the length of three quarters of a yard or therereabouts, and choose of those young Cions that be thickess joynted or nigh joynts together, and when ye Plant or set them, look that your ground be well digged in the Winter before, then in January ye may both cut & Plant, but cut not in the Frost, for that is dangerous to all kind of Trees, or ye may plant in the beginning of February, and when ye do Plant, take two of those Plants, and set or lay them together a foot deep in the earth, for two Plants set together will not so soon fall, as one alone, and lay them a foot longwise in the earth, so that there may be above the earth three or four joynts: ye may plant likewise a young Cion with the old, so that it be thick or nigh joynted, for then he is better to root, and also to bring fruit, than when ye have set or layed them in the earth, then cover them well therewith, in trea­ding it fast down unto the Plants, but let the ends of your Cions or Plants be turned upright above the earth, three or four joynts, if there happen to be more when they are set, ye may cut them off, and cut them alwayes in the middest be­tween the two joynts, and then let them so grow, and see that ye weed them alwayes clean, and once a moneth loosen the earth round about them, and they shall prove the better, if it be very dry and hot in the Summer after, ye may water them, in making a hole with a Crow of Iron to the Root: and there ye may pour in water in the Evening. As for the proyning of them, thus, when the Grape is taken and clustered, then ye may break the next joynt or two after the Grape, of all such superfluous Cions as ye shall see c [...]use, which will cause the Grape to wax bigger: ye may also break away all superfluous buddes or slender branches, which cometh about the Root, or on the under branches, which ye think will have no Grape, and when ye proyn or [Page 80] cut them in Winter following, ye shall not cut the young Ci­on nigh the old, by three or four joynts, ye shall not cut them like Oziers, to leave a sort of heads together on the branch, which doth kill your Vine, ye shall leave but one head, or two at the most of the yong Cions upon the old branch, and to cut those young Cions three or four knots, or joynts off, for the yong Cion doth carry the grape alwayes, and when ye leave upon a great branch many Cions, they cannot be well nourished, and after ye have so cut them in Winter, ye shall bind them with Oziers, in placing those young branches as ye shall see cause, and in the Spring time, when the branches are tender, ye shall bind them so, that the stormy tempest or wind hurt them not, and to bind them withall great soft rushes are best, and when the Grape is clustered, then ye may break off all such branches as is afore declared: upon one old branch three or four heads be enough, for the more heads your branch hath, the worse your grape shall be nourished, & when ye cut off any branch, cut him off hard by or nigh the old branch; if your Vine wax old, the best remedy is, if there grow any yong Cion about the root, ye shall in the Winter cut off the old Vine hard by the ground, or as nigh as ye can, and let the young Vine lead, and he will continue a long time, if ye cover and fill the place about the root with good earth again. There is also upon or by every cluster of grapes, a small Cion like a Pigs Tail, turning about, which doth take away the Sap from the Grape, if ye pinch it off hard by the stalk of your Grape, your fruit shall be the greater. If your Vine wax too rank and thick of branches, ye shall dig the root in Winter, and open the earth, and fill it up again with Sand and ashes mingled together, and whereas a Vine is unf [...]uitfull and doth not bear, ye shall bore an hole (with an Auger) unto the heart or pith, in the body or thickest part thereof, then put in the said hole a small stone, but fill not the hole close therewith, that so the sicknesse of the Vine may passe there­by, Then lay all about the root of good earth mingled with [Page 81] good dung, and so shall not be unfruitfull, but bear well e­ver after: or also to caste of old mens Urine or pisse all about the root of the barren Vine, and if he were half lost or mard, he should grow again and wax fruitfull as before: this is to be done in Winter.

To have Grapes without stones.

FOr to have Grapes without stones, ye shall take young Plants or Branches, and shall Plant or set the top or small end downward in the earth, and so ye may set two of them together for failing, as I have afore declared of the others, and those branches shall bring Grapes without stones.

To make your Vine to bring a Grape to taste like Claret.

TO make your Vine to have a Grape to taste like Claret Wine, and pleasant withall, bore a hole in the stock unto the heart or pith thereof, then make an Electuary with the powder of Cloves, and Cinamon, mingled with a lit-Fountatin or running water, and fill the said hole therewith, and stop it fast and close with wax, and so bind it fast thereon with a Linnen cloth, and those Grapes will taste like Claret-Wine.

Of gathering your Grapes.

ALL Grapes that men do cut, before they are through ripe, the Wine will not be natural, neither shall it long endure good: But if ye cut or gather Grapes, to have them good, and thereby to have good Wine, ye must cut them in the Full, or soon after the Full of the Moon, when she is in Cancer, in Leo, in Scorpio, and in Aquarius, the Moon being in the Wain, and under the earth.

To know if your Grape be ripe enough.

FOr to know if your Grape be ripe enough, or not which ye shall not truly know in the taste, but in sight and taste together, as in taste if they be sweet, and full [Page 82] in eating, and in sight, if the stone will soon fall out being chafed or bruised, which is the best knowledge, and also whe­ther they be white or blue, it is all one matter: The good Grape is he which commeth out all watry, or those which be all clammy as Bird-lime: by these signes ye shall know when to cut, being through ripe or not, and whereas you do presse your Wine, ye must make your place sweet and clean, and your Vessels within to be clean also, and see that they have strong heads, and those persons, which do presse the Grape, must look their hands, feet and body be clean washed, when as they go to press [...] the Grape, and that no woman be there having her terms. Neither ought ye to eat any Chebols, Scalions, Onions, Garlike, Anniseeds, or such like: For all strong savours, your Wine will draw the infection thereof, & as soon as your Grape is cut and gathered, you may presse your Wine very speedily, which will make your Wine to be more pleasant and stronger, for the Grapes, which tarry long unprest, make the Wine to be small and ill; ye must see that your Vessels be new, and sw [...]et within, and to be washed with sweet water, and then well dryed again, and to perfume them with Mastick, and such sweet vapour, and if your Vessel chance not to be sweet, then shall ye pitch him on the sides, which pitch will take away all evill, and such stinking savour therein.

To prove or taste Wine.

ANd whensoever ye will prove or taste any Wine, the best time is early in the morning, and take with you three or four sops of bread, then dip one after another into the Wine, for therein ye shall find (if there be any) sharp taste of the Wine: Thus I leave (at this present) to speak any further here of the Wine and Grape.

If this my simple labour be taken in good part (Gentle Reader) it shall the more hereafter encourage me, to set forth another book more at large, touching the Art of Planting and Graffing, with other things necessary to be known.

Here followeth the best times how to order, choose, and to Set or Plant Hops.

[diagram of planting schemes]

IN this Figure ye shall understand the placing and making of Hop hills, by every Cypher over his head. The first place is shewed but one Pole set in the middest, and the Hop beneath: The second sheweth how some do chop down a Spade in the middest of the Hills, and therein layes his Hop roots. The third place sheweth, how other some do set out one Pole in the middest, and the Hop roots at holes put in round about. The fourth place sheweth how some chops in a Spade crosse in the top, and there layes in his roots. The fifth place sheweth, how some do set four Poles therein and put the Hop round about the Hill. The sixth place sheweth that some use to make crosse holes in the sides, and there lays [...]n the Hop roots, Thus many practises have been proved good: provided alwayes that your hills be of good fat earth, specially in the midst down unto the bottom. This I thought sufficient to shew by this figure, the diversity in setting, where­of the laying of the Hop is counted the surest way.

THe best and common setting time of Hops, is from the middest of November, to the middest of February, then [Page 84] must ye dig and cleanse the ground of weeds, and mix it well with good mold and fat earth. Then divide your Hills a yard one from another orderly, in making them a yard asun­der, and two foot and a half broad in the bottome, and when ye plant them, lay in every Hill three or four Roots: Some do in setting of them lay them crosse-wise in the midst of the Hill, and so cover them again: Some set the Roots in four parts of the Hill, others likewise do make holes round about the Hills, and put of the Roots therein, and so cover them again light with earth: of one short root in a year ye may have many Plants, to set and lay as ye shall see it good, and it shall be sufficient for every Plant to have two knots within the ground, and one without, then some do chop a Spade crosse into the Hill, and lay Hop in crosse, and so cover it.

To choose your Hop.

YE may choose your roots best for your Hop, in the Sum­mer, before ye plant them, for then ye shall see which bears the Hop, for some there is that brings none, but that which bears choose for your Plants, and set of those in your Hills, for so ye shall not be deceived and they shall prosper well.

To sow the Seeds.

SOme do hold, that ye may sow among other Seeds, the Seeds of Hops, and they will increase and be good to set, or else to make beds, and sow them alone, whereby they may encrease to be set, and when they be strong, ye may remove and set them in your Hills, and Plant them as the other be­fore mentioned.

The setting your Poles.

THe best time is in April, or when your roots be sprung half a yard long or more, then by every Plant or Hop in your Hills, set up a Pole of xiii. or xiv. foot long, or thereabouts, as cause shall require. Some do use to set but [Page 85] four Poles in every Hill, which is thought sufficient, and when ye shall set them, s [...]e that ye set them so fast that great Winds do not cast them down.

How to proyn the Hop-tree.

Observe when the Hop doth blossome, and knit in the top, which shall be perceived to be the Hop, then take and cut up all the rest growing thereabouts (not having Hop thereon) hard by the earth, that all those which carry the Hop might be the better nourished: thus do in Summer as ye shall see them increase and grow untill the time of ga­thering.

To gather the Hop.

AT such time before Michaelmasse, as ye shall see your Hop wax brown or somewhat yellow, then he is best to be gathered in a dry day, in cutting your Hop by the ground, then pluck up your Pole therewish for shaking off your Hop; so carry them into some dry house, when ye have so pluckt them, lay them on boarded [...]ofts, or on hurdl [...]s of cloaths, that the wind may dry them, and the air, but not in the Sun, for the same will take away the strength thereof, nor with fire, that will do the same, and ye must daily tosse and turn them till they be dry: to try them when they are dry, hold them in your hand a space, and if they cleave together when ye open your hand, they are not then dry; but if they shatter asunder in opening your hand, ye may be sure they are dry enough. If not, let them remain, and use them as is before said. Ye shall understand the drynesse of them is, to pre­serve them long to last, but if need be, ye may occupy them well undryed, with lesse portion to sow.

What Poles are best.

YE shall prepare your [...]oles of such Wood as is light and stiffe, and which will not bow with every Wind, the best and meetest time to get them is in Winter, when the Sap is [Page 86] gone down, and as soon as ye have taken off your Hop, lay your Poles in sundry places untill the next Spring, whereby they may endure the longer.

How to order and dresse your Hills.

AFfter the first year is past, your Hop being increased to more plenty of roots in your Hills, ye shall after Micha­el [...]masse every year open your Hills, and cast down the tops unto the roots, uncovering them, and cut away all the super­fluous roots, some do pluck away all the roots that spread abroad about the Hills, then opens the Hills, and puts good new earth unto them, and so cover them again, which shall keep them from the Frost, and also make the Ground fat, so shall ye let them remain unto the Spring of the year in February or March, then again if ye shall see any super­fluous roots, ye may take them away and cut them up, and your Hop shall be the better, then again cast up the earth about your Hills, and cleansing them from all weeds and other roots, which will take away their strength, if the herbs remain, so let them rest till your Poles may be set therein,

Of Ground best for your Hop.

THe Hop delighteth, and loveth a good and reasonable sat ground, not very cold, nor yet too moist, for I have seen them prove well in Flanders, in dry sandy fields, the Hop-hills being of good fat earth, ye may (as some say) for great need make your Hop grow and bear on any kind of Rocky ground, so that your hills be great and fat earth, but the lower ground commonly proveth best, so that it stand well and hot in the Sun.

A note of the rest abovesaid.

YE shall mark and understand, all this order abovesaid is to have many Hops and good, with a few roots and Plants placed in a small plot of ground. Ye shall understand, that wild Hops, which grow in the hedges, is as good to oc­cupie as the other to set or Plant in any other places, but look [Page 87] that ye take not the barren Hop to Plant, some Hop will be barren for want of good earth, and lack of good dressing, which ye shall perceive (as I have told you) in the Summer before, that when they should bear, they will be barren, which is for want of good fat earth, or an unkind year, or lack of weeding and good ordering. Therefore such as are minded to bestow labour on the Ground, may have as good Hop growing in this Countrey, as in other Countreys: but if ye will not go to that cost to make Hop-yards, ye may with a light charge have Hops grow in your Hedge-rows, to serve as well as the other, and shall be as good for the quantity as the other in all respects: ye may (for lack of ground plant Hop roots in hedge-rows, when you do quick-set, set up poles by them, when time shall require in the Spring, and bestow every Winter after the gathering your Hop, on every hill head a shovel-full of Dung to comfort the earth, for then they will bear the more plenty of Hops the next year following. To conclude, you that have Grounds may well practise in all things afore mentioned, and specially to have Hops in this ordering for your selves, and others: also ye shall give encouragement for others to follow hereafter, I have heard by credible persons which have known a hun­dred Hills, (which is a small plat of ground) to bear three hundred pounds of Hops, so that the commodity is much, and the gains great: and one pound of our Hops dryed and ordered, will go as far as two po [...]nd [...]f the best Hops that cometh from beyond the Seas. Thus much I thought meet and necessary to write, of the ordering and planting of the Hop.

How to pack your Hops.

WHen your Hops be well tossed and turned on boarded floores, and well dryed, (as I afore have shewed) ye may put them into great Sacks, according to the quantity of your Hops, and let them be trodden down hard together, which will keep their strength Ionger, and so ye may re­serve [Page 88] them, and take at you [...] pleasure, some do use (which have b [...]t small store) to tread them into dry Fattes, and so serve them for their use, which is counted the better way, and the lesse portion doth serve, and will longer keep their vertue and strength.

Wishing long life and prosperous Health,
To all furtherers of this Common-Wealth.
FINIS.
A PERFECT PLATFORM O …

A PERFECT PLATFORM OF A HOP-GARDEN. And necessary Instructions for the making and maintenance thereof, with Notes and Rules for reformation of all abuses commonly practised therein, very necessary and expedient for all men which in any wise have to do with Hops.

PROVERBS. 11. Who so laboureth after goodnesse, findeth his desire.

LONDON, Printed by T. Mabb, for William Shears, and are to be sold at the Signe of the Bible in St. Pauls Church-Yard, near the little North door 1653.

A PERFECT PLAT­FORM OF A HOP Garden.

AT what time necessity, or any other good con­sideration shall move you to devise for a Hop Garden, you are to consider of these three things.

First whether you have or can procure unto your self any Ground good for that purpose.

Secondly, of the convenient standing thereof.

Thirdly of the quantity.

And this I say by the way, if the ground that you deal withall be not your own inheritance, procure unto your self some certain terme therein, left another man reap the fruit of your travell and charge.

Of apt and unapt Ground for Hops.

SOme hold at this day (and ancient Writers witnesse the Virgil. same) that earth being sa [...]t and bitter of taste, is neither good, nor apt to be made good.

It is also often written, and generally received, that such earth as you shall see white and bare, (that is to say) wholly [Page 92] chalk, or all sand, lacking a mixture of perfect earth, or if it be clay, or so dry, as thereby it shall gape or coane in the Didymus, Plinius. Summer, it is nought for this, or any like purpose.

It is further said, that if you shall feel a clod (being dissol­ved with water) to be very clammy or cl [...]aving like wax to your fingers in kneading it, the same to be profitable land, &c.

I for my part rely not upon other mens opinions, neither mean to dispute with any man herein, I like not to make my mouth an arbitrator in this matter, mine ey may be deceived, and my feeling may erre in the precise distinction of good or bad land, but mine experience hath never failed in this thing (that is to say) that a barren, a moory or wet soil, (though it perhaps do content a wild Hop) shall never please nor main­tain a good Hop.

I will not say with Varro, that a good ground yieldeth Walwoorts, nor with Columella, that where Crabs or slows grow, there the ground is rich. I can say nothing of Floren­tines experience in digging a hole, and filling it up again, and by the swelling to judge the strength, or by the gaping to define the weaknesse thereof; but I can say again by sure ex­perience, that a dry ground, if it be rich, mellow, and gentle, i [...] the soil that serveth best for this purpose, and such a mould must either be sought out, or else by cost and labour be pro­voked.

If it be a very shallow rock (except you raise it with greet or good earth) you shall not set your Poles deep, steddy, and fast enough to withstand the force of the wind.

But to redresse the inconvenience hereof, you shall be taught in the Title of Poles.

A light mould (though it be very rich) is not very apt for this purpose, for it is a received and an approved rule, that the heaviest ground will bear the most weight of Hops, I say, so as it be a ground apt for this purpose.

Of the scituation.

IT were good to place your Garden, so as the Sun may have free recourse into it, either the whole day, or the greatest & [Page 93] warmest part thereof, so also as it may be armed against the violence and contagion of the wind; but this I could wish to be considered rather in the scituation of the place, natu­rally defended with hills, then artificially to be set and guar­d [...]d with Trees. Howbeit if you be driven hereunto, provide so (if you can) that your Trees may stand aloof, even that the shadow of them, reach not into your Garden, but in any wise that they drop not upon the hills.

There be many which (to purchase the favour and benefit of the Sun) lay their Gardens very open and bleak to the South, the which I would not wish to be done, for as the fore­part of the year admitteth into your Garden the cold Ea­sterly winds, whereby insues Frosts, the which ingenders Blasts, &c. So the latter part of the year maketh it subject to Southerly stormes, which do much annoy an Hop-Garden when the Poles are loaden with Hops, and then commonly no other wind hurteth.

It should also be placed near to your house, except you be able to warrant the fruit thereof from such fingers, as put no difference between their own, and other mens goods.

Also your Garden being thus placed, there may be made thereunto the more sp [...]edy and continuall recourse, besides that the Masters eye doth m [...]ny times withstand and pre­vent the Servants negligence.

By this means it may be with most ease and least charge holpen with Dung.

Finally (if it may be) let it not stand bleak to the East, West, North, or specially to the South.

Of the quantity.

THe quantity of your Garden, must either be measured by the proportion of your yearly expences of Hops in your house, or by the cost you mean to bestow in the prepara­tion and keeping thereof, or by the pains and businesse, that you are disposed, or able to employ upon it, or else ac­cording to the profit and gains, that you mean to levie [Page 94] and win by it, which later consideration pleaseth and flattereth much a covetous mans conceit, whose vein or hu­mour, (or rather vain humour) is so resisted in the Rules ap­pertaining hereunto, as many times the greedinesse of his de­sire is the overthrow of his purpose, as shall hereafter appear.

A proportion of the charge and benefit of a Hop-garden.

BUt to be resolved in all these points that concern the quantity of your Garden, you must make your account in this wise. One man may well keep two thousand hills, and yet reserve his Winters labour for any other purpose.

Upon every Acre you may erect seven, eight, or nine hun­dred hills, as hereafter shall be declared.

Upon every hill well ordered, you shall have three pounds of Hops at the least.

Two pounds and a half of these Hops will largely serve for the brewing of one quarter of Mault.

One hundred pounds of these Hops are commonly worth xxvi. Shillings viii. pence. So as one Acre of ground, and the third part of one mans labour, with small cost besides, will yield unto him that ordereth the same well, forty Marks yearly, and that for ever.

And here is to be noted, that ground orderly used doth not onely yield the more, greater, harder and weightier Hops, but also they go further, they will endure longer, be whol­somer for the body, and pleasanter of verdure or t [...]ste, than such as be disorderly handled. And in the savour of the Hop thus much more I say, that whereas you cannot make above eight or nine gallons of indifferent Ale out of one Bushell of Mault, you may draw xviii. or xx. Gallons of very good Beere, neither is the Hop more profitable to enlarge the quantity of your drink, then necessary to prolong the continuance thereof: For if your Ale may endure a fort­night, your Beere through the benefit of the Hop shall con­nue a moneth, and what grace it yieldeth to the taste, all men [Page 95] may judge that have sense in them, and if the controversie be betwixt Beer and Ale, which of them two shall have the place of preheminence, it sufficeth for the glory and com­mendation of the Beere, that here in our own Countrey Ale giveth place unto it, and that most p [...]rt of our Countreymen do abhor and abandon Ale, as a loathsome drink, whereas in other Nations Beere is of great estimation, and of strangers entertained as their most choice and delicate drink. Finally, that Ale which is most delicate and of best account, borrow­eth the Hop, as without the which it wanteth his chief grace, and best verdure.

These things considered ye may proceed to the making of your Garden, wherein you are yet to have counsell, for the laying out thereof, for the due season and the right trade to cut and set Hop-roots, what choice ye shall make of them, what charge ye shall be at for them, you are yet also to learn the time when, and the way how to prepare your ground, and to make it able to entertain and nourish them, to frame your Hils, to maintain them, pull them down, to cut, to fa­shion, to erect, to pull up, to peserve your Poles, to gather, to dry, and to pack your Hops, with many other circum­stances necessarily appertaining her [...]unto. Finally ye must be taught the reformation of many [...]normities and abuses which are received in most places for good rules, the (which God willing) I will set forth truly according to the notes of exp [...]rience although not learnedly after the rules of Rhe­torick.

Of the Preparation of a Hop-Garden.

YOu must lay forth the Ground which you determine to imploy in this way, in as levell, square, and uniform wise as you may.

If your Ground be grassie rough or stiffe, it should de first sown with Hemp or Beans, which naturally maketh the ground mellow, destroyeth weeds, and neverthelesse leaveth the same in good season for this purpose.

But in what plight, or state soever your ground be, till it [Page 96] in the beginning of Winter with the Plough, if it be great, or with the Spade if it be small, and this do not onely the year before you Plant it, but every year after, even so long as you mean to receive the uttermost commodity of your Garden, assuring your self, that the more pains you take, and the more cost you bestow hereupon, the more you do double your profit, and the nearer you resemble the Trade of the Flemming.

Howbeit in some Cases these pains may be spared (that is to say) where the mould is not deep, and the hill made both good and great, in this case (I say) the hills being pulled down, the earth contained in them, will cover the whole Garden, and all weeds growing therein, and the same will with help of dung maintain your hill for ever.

The time to cut, and set Hop-roots.

IN the end of March, or in the beginning of April, repair to some good Garden orderly kept, as wherein the Hops be all of a good kind, yearly cut and wherein all the hills are raised very high, for there the roots will be greatest) then compound with the owner or keeper thereof for choice roots, which in some places will cost six pence an hundred, but commonly they will be given unto you, so as you cut them your self, and leave every hill orderly and fully dressed, but what order you shall use herein, I will here­after shew.

Rules for the choice and preparation of roots.

ANd now you must choose the biggest roots you can find (that is to say) such as are in bignesse three or four inch­es about.

And let every root which you shall provide to be set be nine or ten inches long.

Let there be contained in every such root three joynts.

Let all your roots be but the Springs of the yeare last past.

You must have great regard that you cumber not your Garden with wild Hops, which are not to be discerned from the good by the roots, but either by the fruit, or by the stalk.

Of the Hoppe.

THe kindely Hop beareth a great and grene stalke, a large, hard, and a green bell, it appeareth out of the ground naked without leaves, until it be halfe a foot long.

Of unkindly Hopps.

THe Hop that liketh not his entertainment, namely his seat, his ground, his keeper, his dung, or the manner of his setting &c. cometh up small and green in stalk, thick and rough in leaves, very like unto a Nettle, which will com­monly be much devoured or much bitten with a little black flie, who also will do harme unto good Hops, where the garden standeth bleak, or the Hop springeth rath, but be not discomforted herewith, for the heat of the Summer will re­forme this matter, and th [...] latter Springs will be little an­noyed with this flie, who, though she leave the leafe as full of holes as a Net, yet she seldome proceedeth to the utter de­struction of the Hop.

Of the wild Hop.

OF the wild Hop, the fruit is either altogether seed, or else loose and red light bells, the [...]alk is red, howbeit, herein the difference between the good and the bad Hop is not to be discerned, until the stalk be two or three yarde high, for at their first comming up, the one aswell as the other appeareth red, and the best Hop is alwaies the most red.

Provide your roots therefore where you are assured of of their goodnesse before hand.

Of setting of Hop-roots.

HAving made your provision of roots in this wise, return therewith to your Garden speedily, and either set them immediately, or lay them in some Puddle near thereunto, or bury them in the ground untill conveniency or winde, wea­ther, and leisure (the want whereof may sometimes prevent good expedition) shall serve. Provided alwaies that you leave them not in water puddle above xxiv. hours, but in the earth you may leave them as long as the time of setting endureth, that is to say, till the middest of Aprill.

Your Garden being dressed, as before I advised you, it shall be easie for you to direct your hils aright, and that in equall distance with a Pole, or rather with a line (that will not stretch) tying thereupon short threds, or placing in it pins, according to the proportion of space which you mean to leave between your hils, whereof if one be placed out of order, it shall blemish and hurt a great part of your Garden.

The distance of the Hils.

IF your Garden be one Acre in bignesse, and lye square, leave between every hole three yards, or eight foot at the leaft in space, as well that the hils may be made the greater, and that the Hops of one pole reach not to another, as also that the Sun may the more freely, and universally passe tho­row your Garden, which by this means may yearly be plough­ed betwixt the Hills, whereas otherwise it must be digged, which is a more tedious and costly businesse.

If your Garden be very little, you may set the hills some­what nearer together, namely, seven foot asunder.

A description of the Line.

[depiction of a plant-training line]

YOur line being laid levell, you must digge, underneath e­very thred or pin placed upon the same, a hole like a Pit­fall, [Page 99] one foot square, and one foot deep.

When you have made twenty or thirty holes, take up so many roots; from where you bestowed them, as ought to be therein, and go to work on this wise, alwaies watching a time (if you may) that the winde be in some part of the South or West, but be not so scrupulous herein, that you overslip the moneth of April, least Salomons saying, be spoken of you. He that regardeth the Wind shall not sow, and he that hath respect to the Clouds shall not reap. For he that neglecteth the Moneth of April, shall have a bad season to cut or plant Hops.

[depiction of a plant-training line with four stages of growth]

Take two or three of your roots (which by this time will yeeld forth green Cions or white buds, and will also have small roots or beards growing out of them, the which must be, all saving the smaller sort of white buds, pared away by the old root) joyn them close together, so as (in any wise) they may be even in the tops: set them also together bolt up­right, directly under the foresaid thred or pin, holding them hard together with one hand, while you fill the hole with the other with fine mould prepared and made ready before hand, regarding that the tops of the roots be levell with the face or uppermost part of the ground.

Take good heed also that you set not that end downward, that grew before upward, which you shall know by the buds that appear in the knots of each root, and let no part of the dead remain upon the uppermost part of the joynt thereof.

And when you have thus done, presse down the earth with your foot hard to the roots, not treading upon them, but [Page 100] driving the loose earth close to the corner where the roots are set.

And here is to be noted, that the readiest and evenest way is alwayes to set your roots at one certain corner of the hole, which corner should alwaies be right underneath the said pinne or thred, as is aforeshewed.

At this time you must make no hill at all, but onely co­ver the tops of your roots about two inches thick, with the finest mould you can get.

When you are driven to set your roots late, if there be a­ny green springs upon them, you may take the advantage thereof, leaving the same spring uncovered, otherwise you both destroy the spring, and endanger the root.

Abuses and disorders in setting,

SOme use to set at every corner of the hole one root, but this is a naughty and tedious trade, because a man shall be longer in dressing one of these, than about four other. To be short, you shall this way so cumber both your self and your Garden, that you will soon be weary with working, and your Garden as soon weary of bearing.

Some wind them and set both ends upward, and herein the cunning of the workman, and the goodness of the roots are lively expressed, for if the roots were good, they could not be so wound, or if the workman were skilful, he would not be so fond as to set them in that order.

Some use to lay them thwart or flat, but I say flatly that is a praeposterous way, for they can neither prosper well (as being set contrary to their nature, and kind of growing) nor be kept as they ought to be.

Some use to make hills and set the roots therein, but the moisture in regard of the hill, cannot administ [...]r succour to them, besides other inconveniences which may follow.

Some bury the roots under a great hill made on them af­ter the setting, this differs not much from the other, onely the hill so choaks these that they will do no good.

Finally, there be as many evill wayes to set, as there be ig­norant men to devise.

Provision against annoyance, and spoile of your Garden.

IF your Garden be small, and very nigh to your house, you may arm every hill with a few thorns to defend them from the annoyance of Poultry, which many times will scrape and bath amongst the hills, and so discover and hurt the springs, but a Goose is the most noysome vermine that can enter into this Garden, for (besides the Allegory that may be applyed in this case) a Goose will knabble upon every young science or Hop bud that appeareth out of the ground, which will never grow afterwards, and therefore as well to avoid the Goose, as other noysome cattell, let your closure be made strong, and kept tight.

Of Poles.

IT remaineth that I speak now of Poles, because Poling is the next work now to be done.

If your hils be distant three yards asunder, provide for e­very hill four poles, if you will make your hils nearer toge­ther, three poles shall suffice.

And note that in the first year you may occupy as many poles as in any year after, the reason whereof I will declare in the title of Hils.

Alder poles are best for this purpose, as whereunto the Hops seem most willingly and naturally to encline, because both the fashion of these poles being as a Taper, small above, and great below, and also the roughnesse of the Alder-ryne, stayeth the Hop stalk more firmly from sliding down, than ei­ther Ash or Ok, which for continuance be somewhat better howbeit, these with the order that I shall prescribe, will en­dure six or seven years.

These are also best cheap, and easiest to be gotten in most places, and soonest grown ready for this purpose.

There is in the Spring of these, least danger in growing, or in being destroyed, or bitten by cattell.

Finally, by the expence of these, there ensueth the least annoyance to the Co [...]mon-wealth, as well for the causes a­foresaid, as also because they grow not in so great quantity, to so good timber, nor for so many purposes as either Oke or Ash.

The best time to cut your poles, is between Alhallontide and Christmas, but you must pile them up immediately after they are cut, sharped, reformed in length, and smoothed, lest they rot before you occupy them.

You may not leave any scrags upon them, the reason whereof you shall conceive in the Title of gathering Hops.

Your Poles may not be above xv. or xvi. foot long at the most, except your ground be very rich, or that you added thereunto great labour in raising up your hills, or else except your hills stand too near together: if any of these chance to be, or if all these three things meet in one Garden, the best way of reformation, is to set the fewer poles to a hill, or to let them remain the longer. Otherwise the Hops will grow from one pole to another, and so overshadow your Garden, the fault thereof being especially to be imputed to the near­nesse of the hills. Therefore chiefly you must measure your poles by the goodnesse of your ground.

Your Hop never stocketh kindly, untill it reach higher than the Pole, and return from it a yard or two, for whilst it tendeth climbing upward, the branches, which grow out of the principal stalk (wherein consisteth the abundance of en­crease) grow little or nothing.

Let the quantity of your Poles be great (that is to say) nine or ten inches about the lower end, so shall they endure the longer, and withstand wind the better.

To describe the price of poles, or what it will cost you to furnish a Garden containing an acre of ground, it were a hard matter, because the place altereth the price of Wood. But in a Wain you may carry an hundred and fifty poles, and I see small cause why a load of these should be much dearer than a load of any other Wood.

After the first year Poles will be nothing chargeable unto you, for you may either pick them out of your own provi­sion of Fuell, or buy them of your Neighbours that have no occasion to apply them this way. For the yearly supply of two loads of Poles, will maintain one Acre continually.

Your rotten and broken Poles will do you good service, for the kindling of your fires in the Oste, whereupon you should dry your Hops, and they should be preserved chief­ly for that purpose.

At Poppering (where both scarcity and experience hath taught them to make carefull provision hereof) they do com­monly at the East and North-side of their Gardens, set and preserve Alders, wherewith they continually maintain them.

Before you set up your Poles, lay them all alongst your Garden between every row of hills by three or four toge­ther, I mean beside every hill so many Poles as you deter­mine to set thereon, so shall you make the more speed in your work.

Of the erection of Poles.

WHen your Hops appear above the ground, so as you may discern where the principall roots stand, set up your Poles, preparing their way with a crow of Iron, or a forked woodden tool, with a point of Iron, somewhat like unto these.

[depiction of planting tools]

For if you stay till the Hops be grown to a greater length, one inconveni­ence is, that either in making the holes, or in erecting the poles, or else in ramming the earth to the fastening of them, you shall hazard the bruising or breaking of your Hops: ano­ther is, that you shall be forced to tye every stalk to the pole, whereas otherwise the most part of them will climb up of their own accord: the third is, that it will hinder the growth of the Hop, if it remain unstayd so long.

You must [...]et every Pole a foot and a half deep, and within two or three inches at the most of the principall root.

If your ground be rockie and shallow, tarry the longer be­fore you set up your Poles, so as your Hops may be grown two or three foot high, that you may adventure to make a hill or bank at every pole to stay uphold the same, with­out burying any of the young Springs, which may afterward be covered with lesse danger and annoyance of the principall root.

Let the Poles of every hill lean a little outward one from another.

Of Ramming of Poles.

THen with a piece of wood as big below as the great end of one of your poles, ramme the earth that lyeth at the outside of the Pole thereunto, but medle not within the com­passe of your Poles, as they are placed, lest you spoile the Springs.

Of Reparation of Poles.

IF any of the Poles chance to break in many pieces, when the Hop is grown up, undoe and pull away the same bro­ken pole, and tye the top of those Hops to the top of a new pole, then winding it a turn or two about according to the course of the Sun, set it in the hole, or besides the hole where the broken pole stood, but some being loth to take so much pains, turn it about the other Poles that stand upon the same hill, and so leave it. But if it be not broken above the middest, the best way is, to set a new pole or stalk beside the broken pole to the same, which may uphold the said broken pole, and preserve the Hop. If the pole be onely broken at the ne­ther end, you may shove the said pole again into the hill, and so leave it.

Of pulling up Poles.

ANd because, when the hils are made great, and raised high you can neither easily pull up any, nor possible pull up all your poles except you break them, &c. especially if the weather or ground be dry, or else the Poles old or small, I [Page 105] thought good to shew you an Instrument wherewith you may pull them up without disease to your self, destruction to your Poles, or expence of your money, the charge being duly foure­teen or fif­teen pound of Iron, wherewith the Smith shall make you a paire of Tongs, (or rather you may call them) a pair of Pinsers, of the fashi­on here set down, the which may also be made with wood, if you think good.

[depiction of gardening pincers or tongs]

The way to make the Instrument wherewith to pull up the Hop-poles.

THey must be one yard in length, whereof six or seven inches may be allowed for the mouth or lower end of them, which serveth to clasp or catch hold on the Pole, the same nether end should be the strongest part thereof, and the mouth somewhat hollow in the middest, and there also bend­ing downward, whereby the extream point may rise a lit­tle upward.

Upon the upper edges of the infide thereof, the Smith should hack or raise a few small teeth, whereby your tool may take the surer hold upon the Pole.

He must also fasten upon every side of this Instrument a ri­ding hook, the which may clasp and stay both sides together, when they have caught hold on the pole.

The manner of pulling up the Hop-poles.

YOu shall lay a little square block upon the top of the hill, and the better to remove the same from hill to hill, you [Page 106] may thrust therein a Pin. Upon the same block you may rest your Pinsers, when they have clasped the very lowest part of your Pole, and then holding the upper part of each side in your hands, the hook being clasped, and pulled up hard to­wards you, you may easily weigh up your Poles.

Of the preservation of Poles.

ANd although ye are not come to the laying up of Poles, I am bold herein, as I began too late, so to make an end too quickly, because I would touch the whole matter of Poles to [...]ether, laying them by themselves, (I mean) com­prehending under one Title, the businesse pertaining unto them.

For the preservation and better continuance of Poles, some make houses of purpose, and lay them up therein.

Some set them upright to a Tree, and over them make a penthouse of boughs or boords.

Some lay a great heap of Hop-stalks upon the Ground, and upon them a great heap of Pol [...]s, and upon the Poles a­gain lay another heap of stalks, &c.

These men hereby do ex [...]resse no great experience, although by their diligence they signifie a good desire.

You shall need to do no more but thus. At the ends or sides of your Garden, take three Poles standing upon three Hills, placed directly one by another, and three like Poles upon three other hills of the next row right over against them, con­strain them to meet together by two, and two in the tops, and so hold them, till one with a forked wand put three withs (lik unto three Broom bands, which may be made of the stalks of Hops) upon each couple of the said six Poles, so shall the same six Poles being so bound by two and two to­gether, stand like the roof or rafters of an house.

To keep the Poles that shall lye nether most from rotting by the moistnesse of the ground: within the compasse of your said six hills, underneath the Poles that you have fa­stened [Page 107] together in the tops,) raise three little banks crosse or thwart from hill to hill, as though you would make your six hills to be but three.

Upon those banks lay a few Hop-stalks, and upon them your Poles, observing that one stand at one end of the room, and another at the other end, ordering the matter so, as the tops of the Poles lie not all one way, but may be equally and orderly divided: otherwise one end of the room would be full before the other, whereas now they will lye even and sharp above like an hay-stack, or the ridge of an house, and sufficiently defend themselves from the weather.

If you think that you have not Poles enough to fill the room, pull down the withs or bands lower, and your room will be lesse, and do this before you lay in your Poles.

Of tying Hops to the Poles.

WHen your Hops are grown about one or two foot high, bind up (with a Rush or Grasse) such as decline from the Poles, winding them as often ye can about the said Poles, and directing them alwayes according to the course of the Sun, but if your leisure may serve (to do at any o­ther time of the day) do it not in the morning when the dew remaineth upon them.

If you lay soft green Rushes abroad in the dew and the Sun, within two or three dayes, they will be lithi, tough, and handsome for this purpose of tying, which may not be foreslowed, for it is most certain that the Hop, that lyeth long upon the ground before he be tyed to the Pole, prosp [...]reth nothing so well, as it which sooner attaineth thereunto.

Of Hilling and Hills.

NOw you must begin to make your hills, and for the better doing thereof, you must prepare a tool of Iron fashioned somewhat like to a Coopers Addes, but not [Page 108] so much bowing, neither so narrow at the head, and therefore likest to the nether part of a shovell, the poll whereof must be made with a round hole to receive a helve, like to the helve of a mattock, and in the powl also a nail hole must be made to fasten it to the helve.

This helve should bow somewhat like to a Sithe, or to the steale of a Sithe, and it must be little more than a yard long.

The helve should be straight at the upper end.

With this tool you may pare away the grasse, which groweth in the spaces betwixt the hills, and with the same also you may take your hills, and pull them down when time requireth.

Some think it impertinent and not necessary to make hills the first year, partly because their distrust of this years pro­fit qualifieth their diligence in this behalf, and partly for that they think, that the principall root prospereth best, when there be no new roots of them forced and maintained. But experience confuteth both these conjectures, for by indu­stry, the first years profit will be great, and thereby also the principall sets much amended, as their prosperity in the se­cond year will plainly declare.

But in this work, you must be both painfull and curious, as wherein confisteth the hope of your gains, and the successe of your work. For the greater in quantity you make your hills, the more in number you shall have of your Hops, and the fewer weeds on your ground, the more Hops upon your poles.

In confideration whereof I say, your labour must be con­tinuall from this time almost till the time of gathering, in raising your hills, and clearing ground from weeds.

In the first year that you plant your Hop-Garden, sup­presse not one Cion, but suffer them all to climb up to the poles, for if you should bury or cover all the Springs of any one of your three roots, which you did lately set, the root thereof perisheth, and perhaps out of some one root there [Page 109] will not proceed above one or two springs, which being bu­ried, that root I say dyeth, and therefore the more poles are at this time requisite.

After the first year you must not suffer above two or three stalks at the most to grow up to one pole, but put down and bury all the rest.

Howbeit you may let them all grow till they be four or five foot high at the least, whereby you shall make the better choice of them which you mean to attain, whereby also the principall root will be the better, &c.

Some suffer their Hops to climb [...] up to the tops of the poles, and then make the hills at one instant in such quantity as they mean to leave them, which is neither the best, nor the second way.

But if (for expedition) you be driven hereunto, begin soon­er (that is to say) when the Hops be four or five foot long, and afterwards, if leisure shall serve, refresh them again with more earth.

But to make them well, and as they ought to be made, you must immediately after your poles are set, make a little bank or circle round about the outside of them, as a dimension how wide your hill shall be, and as a receptacle to retain and keep moisture, whereof there cannot lightly come too much, so it come from above.

If your Garden be great, by that time that you have made an end of these Circles or Banks, it will be time to proceed further towards the building up of your hills,

Now therefore return again to the place where you be­gan, or else where you see the Hops highest, and with your tool pare off the uppermost earth from the Allies or spaces between the hills, and lay the same in your Hops, upon and within the circle that you made before, alwayes leaving the same highest of any part of the hill, and so passe through your Garden again and again, till you have raised your hills by little and little, to so great a quantity as is before de­clared, and look how high your hill is, so long are your new [Page 110] roots, and the greater your new roots or springs be, the lar­ger and better your Hops will be

Great and overgrown weeds should not be laid upon the hills, as to raise them to their due quantity, but when with diligence and expedition you passe through your Garden, continually paring away each green thing assoon as it ap­peareth, you shall do well with the same, and the uppermost mold of your Garden together, to maintain and encrease the substance of your hills, even till they be almost a yard high.

In the first year make not your hill too rathe, left in the do­ing thereof you oppresse some of those springs which would otherwise have appeared out of the ground.

It shall not be amisse now and then to passe through your Garden, having in each hand a forked wand, directing aright such Hops as decline from the Poles, but some instead of the said forked wands, use to stand upon a stool, and do it with their hands.

Abuses in Hilling

SOme observe no time, and some no measure in making their hills, but (having heard say, that hills are necessary) they make hills once for all, and never after pluck down the same: but better it were to make no hill, than so to do, for after the first year it doth derogate, and not adde any com­fort to the root, except the same be every year new made and dressed, &c.

Some use to break off the tops of the Hops when they are grown a xi. or xii. foot high, because thereby they burnish and stock exceedingly, wherein, though I cannot commend their doings, yet do they much better than such as will have their Poles as long as their Hops.

But if your Pole be very long, and that the Hop have not attained to the top thereof before the middest of July, you shall do well then to break, or cut off the top of the same Hop, for so shall the residue of the growing time serve to the [Page 111] maintenance and increase of the Branches, which otherwise would expire without doing good in that matter, because that whole time would be then imployed to the lengthening of the stalk which little prevaileth (I say) to the stocking or encrease of the Hop.

And here is to be noted, that many covetous men, thinking (in hast) to enlarge their luere, do find (at leisure) their com­modity diminished, whilst they make their hills too thick, their Poles too long, and suffer too many stalks to grow up­on one Pole, wherein (I say) while they run away flattering themselves with the imagination of double gains, they are o­vertaken with trebble dammage (that is to say) with the losse of their time, their labour, and their cost.

Of the gathering of Hops.

NOte that commonly, at St. Margarets day, Hops blow, and at Lammas they bell, but what time your Hops be­gin to change colour, (that is to say) somewhat before Mi­chaelmasse (for then you shall perceive the seed to change co­lour and wax brown) you must gather them, and for the speedier dispatch thereof, procure as much help as you can, taking the advantage of fair weather, and note that you were better to gather them too rathe than too late.

To do the same in the readiest and best order, you must pull down your hills standing together in the middest of your Garden, cut the roots of all those hills, as you shall be taught in the Title of Cutting, &c. Then pare the Plat small, levell it, throw water on it, tread it, and sweep it, so shall it be a fair Floore, whereon the Hops must lye to be picked.

Then beginning near unto the same, cut the stalks asunder, close by the tops of the hills, and if the Hops of one Pole be grown fast unto another, cut them also asunder with a sharp Hook, and with a forked staffe take them from the Poles.

You may make the Fork and Hook (which cutteth asun­der the Hops that grow together) one apt instrument to serve both these turns.

Then may you with your forked [...]nd, thrust up, or shove off all such stalks as remain upon each Hop-pole, and carry them to the Floore prepared for that purpose.

For the better doing hereof, it is very necessary that your poles be straight without serags or knobs.

In any wise cut no more stalks then you shall carry away within one hour or two at the most, for if in the mean time the Sun shine hot, and it happen to rain, the Hops (remain­ing cut in that sort) will be much impaired thereby.

Let all such as help you stand round about the Floore, and suffer them not to pingle in picking one by one, but let them speedily strip them into Baskets prepared ready therefore.

It is not hurtfull greatly, though the smaller Leaves be mingled with the Hops, for in them is retained great vertue, insomuch as in Flanders they were sold Anno Domini 1566 for xxvi. shillings viii. pence the Hundred, no one Hop being mingled with them.

Remember alwayes to clear your Floor twice or thrice e­very day, and sweep it clean at every such time, before you go to work again.

If the weather be unlike to be fair, you may carry these Hops into your house in Blankets or Baskets, &c. and there accomplish this work. Use no Linnen hereabouts, for the Hops will stain it so, as it can never be washed out.

If your poles be seraggy, so as you cannot strip the stalks from them in this order, you must pull them up with main force before the Hops be gathered, and this is painfull to your self, hurtfull to your Hops, and a delay to your work.

Then must you lay these poles upon a couple of forked stalks driven into the ground, being two or three yards di­stant one from another, as Spits upon Ranges, and so dispatch this businesse, if the weather be fair, if it be like to be foul, you must be fain to carry the Hops together with the pole [Page 113] into your Barn or house, that they may not take wet, and so be made uselesse.

In any wise let not the Hops be wet when you cut them from the hills, neither make any delay of gathering after the same time of cuttings, for in standing abroad they will shed their seed, wherein consisteth the chief vertue of the Hop, and hereof I cannot warn you too often, nor too earnestly.

Now by order I should declare unto you the manner of drying your Hops, but because I must therewithall describe the places meet for that purpose, with many circumstances appertaining thereunto, I will be bold, first to finish the work within your Hop-Garden, and then to lead you out of the same, into the place where you must dry your Hops, &c.

When your Hops are gathered, assoon as you have leisure, take up your Poles and pile them (that remain good) as I have shewed you in the Title of Poles.

Then carry out your broken Poles, and your Hop-straw to the fire.

Now may you depart out of your Garden, till the March following, except in the mean time you will bring in dung, or good earth to the maintenance thereof, towards the height­ning of your hills, or else will plow it, &c.

What there is to be done in Winter herein.

TO be curious in laying dung upon the hills in Winter, as to comfort or warm the roots (as some do) it shall be needlesse, rather pluck down the hills, and let the roots lye bare all the Winter season, and this is usually done where [...]ops are best ordered, especially to restrain them from too rathe springing, which is the cause of blasts, and many o­ther inconveniences.

If the ground be great that you keep, you shall be driven so to do, otherwise you shall not be able to overcome your work in due time.

In any case you must avoid new horse-dung as a very [Page 114] noysome and pernicious things for your Hops.

Stall dung is the best that can be wished for to serve this turn, so it be throughly rotten.

Rather use no dung than unrotten dung about the dressing of your Hops, but omit not to bring into your Garden dung, that may there be preserved till it be good or needfull to be used.

When and where to lay dung

ABout the end of April (if your ground be not rich e­nough) you must help every hill with a handfull or two of good earth, not when you cut your roots, for then it will rather do harm than good, but when the Hop is wound a­bout the pole, then should you do it.

The order for reforming your ground.

IN March you may return to your Garden, and find it re­plenished with weeds, except by tillage, &c. you have pre­vented that matter already. It must, (as well therefore be­cause the earth may be more fine, rich, and easie to be deliver­ed unto the hils) be digged over or plowed, except in the case mentioned.

The order of cutting Hop roots.

WHen you pull down your hills, (which if you have not already done, you must now of necessity go a­bout to do) you should (with your Garden tool) undermine them round about, till you come near to the principal roots, and then take the upper or younger roots in your hand, and shake off the earth, which earth being again removed away with your said tool, you shall discern where the new roots grow out of the old Sets.

In the doing hereof, be carefull that you spoil not the old Sets, as for the other roots which are to be cut away, you shall not need to spare them to the delay of your work, ex­cept such as you mean to set.

Take heed that you uncover not any more than the tops of the old Sets in the first year of cutting.

At what time soever you pull down your hills, cut not your roots before the end of March, or in the beginning of April, and then remember the wind.

In the first year (I mean) at the first time of cutting and dressing of your roots, you must (with a sharp knife) cut a­way all such roots or springs as grew the year before out of your Sets, within one inch of the same.

Every year after you must cut them as close as you can to the old roots, even as you see an Osiers head cut.

There groweth out of the old Sets certain roots, right downwards, not joynted at all, which serve only for the nou­rishing and comfort of those Sets or principall roots, which are not to be cut off. There be other like unto them growing outward at the fides of the Sets. If these be not met withall, and cut asunder, they will cucumber your whole Garden.

Because it may seem hard to discern the old Sets from the new springs, I thought good to advertise you how easie a thing it is to see the difference thereof; for first you shall be sure to find your Sets where you did set them, nothing in­creased in length, but somewhat in bignesse enlarged, and in few years all your Sets will be grown into one, so as by the quantity that thing shall plainly appear: and lastly the difference is seen by the colour, the old root being red, the other white, but if the hills be not yearly pulled down, and the roots yearly cut, then indeed the old Sets shall not be perceived from the other roots.

If your Sets be small, and placed in good ground, and the hill well maintained, the new Roots will be greater than the old.

If there grow in any hill a wild Hop, or whensoever the stalk waxeth red, or when the Hop in any wise decayeth, pull up every root in that hill, and set new in their places, at the usuall time of cutting and setting, or if you list, you may do it when you gather Hops with the roots which you cut a­way, when you make your picking place.

Of divers mens follies.

Many men seeing the springs so forward, as they will be by this time, are loth to lose the advantage hereof, and more unwilling to cut away so many goodly roots, but they that are timorous in this behalf, take pity upon their own profit, and are like unto them that refrain to lay dung upon their Corn land, because they will not beray it with so un­cleanly a thing.

And some that take upon them great skill herein, think that for the first year they may be left unhilled and uncut, &c. deceiving themselves with this conceit, that then the Sets prosper best within the ground, when they send least of their nature and state out of the ground. In this respect also they pull away or suppresse all such Springs (as soon as they ap­pear) which grow more, and besides them which they mean to assign to each Pole, as though when a mans finger were cut off, his hand would grow the greater. Indeed if there be no hill maintained, then the more Springs are suffered to grow out from the principall root, the more burden and punishment it will be to the same. But when the Springs are maintained with a hill, so much as remaineth within the same is converted into roots, which rather adde than take a­way any state from the principall root, in consideration here­of, the suppressing of the Springs may not be too rathe, for whatsoever opinion be hereof received, the many Springs ne­ver hurt the principall root, if the the hills be well maintain­ed, but it is the cumbring and shadowing of one to ano­ther, that worketh the annoyance.

When you have cut your Hops, you must cover them as you were taught in the Title of Setting, and proceeding ac­cording to the order already set down.

Of disorder, and maintainers thereof.

SOme there be that despise good order, being deceived with a shew of increase, which sometime appeareth in a disor­dered [Page 117] ground, to them I say, and say it truly, that the same is a bad and a small increase in respect of the other.

I say also, that although disorderly doings at the first may have a countenance of good successe, yet in few years the same, and all hope thereof will certainly decay.

Some others there be that despise good order, satisfying themselves with this, that they have sufficiently to serve their own turn, without all these troubles, and surely it were pit­ty that these should be troubled with any great abundance, that in contempt of their own profit, and of the Common­wealth, neglect such a benefit preferred unto them.

Of an Oste.

NOw have I shewed unto you the perfect Platform of a Hop-Garden, out of the which I led you for a time, and brought you in again when time required, and there would I leave you about your businesse, were it not to shew you by de­scription such an Oste as they dry their Hops upon at Poppe­ring, with the order thereof, &c. Which for the small charges and trouble in drying, for the speedy and well drying, and for the handsome and easie doing thereof, may be a profitable pattern, and a necessary instruction for as many as have, or shall have to do herein.

Of the severall rooms for an Oste.

FIrst a little house must be built of length xviii. foot or xix. foot, of widenesse eight, wherein must be comprehended three severall rooms.

The middle and principall room must be for your Oste, eight foot square. The fore part, which is to contain your dryed Hops, will fall out to be five foot long, and eight foot wide a piece.

The chief matters that are to be by me described herein, are the Furnace below, wherein the fire is to be made, and [Page 118] the bed above, whereon the Hops mustly to be dryed: this I have chiefly to advise you of, that you build the whole house, and every part thereof as close as you can, and to place it near to your Garden, for the better expedition of your work, and somewhat distant from your house to avoid the danger of fire.

Of the Furnace or Keel.

THe Floore or nether part of your furnace must be about thirteen inches wide.

The depth or height thereof must be thirty inches.

The length of it must be about six or seven foot (that is to say) reaching from the fore part of the Oste almost to the further end thereof, so as there be left no more room but as a man may passe between the wall and the end of it.

It must be made wide below, and narrow above, fashioned in outward shape somewhat like to the roof of an house.

It must have three rows of holes at each side, the length of one Brick asunder, and the bignesse of half a Brick, placed checkerwise. Before you begin to make your holes, you should lay two rows of Brick, and when your three ranks of holes are placed upon them, you must lay again over them ano­ther row of Brick, and upon the same you must place your last and highest course, and they must stand longwise (as it were a tiptoe) the tops of the Bricks meeting together above (the nether part of them resting upon the uppermost course) and note that till then, each side must be built alongst direct­ly upward.

You should leave almost a foot space between the mouth of your Furnace, and your rows of holes, especially of that row which is nethermost.

The further or hinder end of your Furnace, the which is opposite to the mouth thereof, must be built flat with an up­right wall, and there must be holes also left as at the sides.

The Furnace in the top, (I mean from the upper course of holes) must be dawbed very well with morter.

And so upon the top of your Furnace there will remain a [Page 119] gutter, (whereupon Flemmimgs use to bake Apples, &c.) and the highest part thereof will reach within two foot and lesse of the Oste.

Finally, it must be placed upon the ground in the middest of the lower Floore of the Oste, which Floor must be made

The hinder most part or Fur­ther end of the Furnace

One side of the Furnace.

The mouth and fore­part of the Furnace.

very perfect, fine and levell, the reason whereof you shall per­ceive in the Title of drying.

Of the bed or upper floor of the Oste, whereon the Hope must be dried.

THe bed or upper floor, whereon your Hops shall lye to be dryed, must be placed almost five foot above the nether floor whereon the Furnace standeth.

The two walls at each side of the house, serve for the bed to rest upon two wayes.

Now must two other walls be built at each end of your Oste, whereon the other two parts of the bed must rest, and by this means shall you have a close square room beneath, be­twixt the lower floor and the bed, so as the floor below shall be as wide as the bed above.

These two walls must also be made four foot above the bed (that is to say) about nine foot high.

At the one end below, besides the mouth of the Furnace, you must make a little doore into the room beneath the bed. At [Page 120] the other end above the bed you must make a Window to shove off from the bed the dryed Hops, down into the room below prepared for them.

The bed should be made as the bed of any other Oste, saving that the Rails or Laths, which serve thereto, must be sawn very even one inch square, and laid one quarter of an inch asunder. But there may be no more beams to stay the Laths but one, and the same must be laid flat and not on edge, in the middest from one end of the room to the other, and the Laths must be let into the same beam, so as the upper side of the beam, and all the Laths may lye even.

If your Garden be very great, you may build your house somewhat larger, namely xxii. foot long, and ten foot broad, and then you must make in this Oste two Furnaces, three or four foot asunder, placing the doore betwixt them both, o­therwise in all points like to that which I first described, and

The window pointed unto may not stand below in the nether room, but above as is before decla­red.

the ground-work hereof is to set out here, that any Carpen­ter will easily frame the whole house by the same Figure.

And now once again wishing you to make every doore, Window and joynt of this house close, I will leave building, and proceed to the drying of Hops, saving that I may not o­mit to tell you, that you should either build all the walls of this Room with Brick, or else with Lime and Hair par­git them over: and at the least that wall wherein the [Page 121] mouth of the Furnace standeth, be made of Brick.

And although I have delayed you from time to time; and brought you from place to place, and tediously led you in and out, to and fro in the demonstration hereof, yet must I be bold to bring you round about again, even to the place where I left you picking, from whence you must speedily con­vey your pickt Hops to the place built and prepared for them, and with as much speed hasten the driyng of them.

The orderly drying of Hope.

THe first businesse that is to be done herein, is to go up to the bed of the Oste, and there to receive baskets filled with Hops, at the hands of one that standeth below.

Then beginning at the further end (left you should tread on them) lay down Basketfull by Basketfull, till the floore or bed be all covered, alwayes stirring them even and levell, with a Cudgell, so as they may lye about a foot and a half thick, and note that upon this Oste, there is no Oste-cloth to be used.

Now must you come down to make your fire in the Fur­nace, for the kindling whereof your old broken Poles are very good, howbeit for the continuance and maintenance of this fire, that wood is best which is not too dry, and some­what great.

Your Hop­stalks or any other straw is not to be used herein.

You shall not need to lay the wood through to the further end of your Furnace, for the fire made in the forepart there­of, will bend that way, so as the heat will universally and in­differently ascend and proceed out of every hole.

You must keep herein a continuall and hot fire, Howbeit you must stir it as little as you can.

Neither may you stir the Hops that lye upon the Oste, untill they be throughly dryed.

When they are dry above, then they are ready to be remo­ved away, and yet sometimes it happeneth, (that through [Page 122] the disorderly laying of them) they are not so soon dry in one place, as they are in another.

The way to help that matter, is to tak a little Pole (where­with you shall senfibly feel and perceive which be, and which be not dry, by the rattling of the Hops which you shall there­with touch) and with the same Pole to turn-aside such Hops as be not dry, abating the thicknesse to the moist place.

When your Hops are dry, rake up the fire in such sort, as there may be no delay in the renewing thereof.

Then with exp [...]dition shove them out of the Window be­fore mentioned into the room prepared to receive them, with a Rake fashioned like a Cole-rake, having instead of teeth a board, &c.

This being done, go down into the lower Floor, and sweep together such Hops and seeds, as are fallen thereinto, and lay them up among the dryed Hops, and then without delay cover the bed again with green Hops, and kindle your fire.

Lay your dryed Hops on a heap together till they be cold, and by this means such as were not perfectly dryed through some disorder upon the Oste, shall now be reformed.

If they have been well ordered, they will now be brown, and yet bright.

If they be black and dark, it is a note that they are dis­ordered.

The Flemmings pack them not up before they sell them to to the Merchant, but lay them in some corner of a Loft, where they tread them close together.

Other wayes of drying not so good.

SOme use to dry their Hops upon a common Oste, but that way there can be no great speed in your work, nor small expence of your wood, besides the danger of fire and ill suc­cesse of your doings.

On this Oste you must have an Oste cloth, otherwise the Seed and Hops that fall down shall not onely perish, but en­danger the burning of your Oste.

Upon this Oste you may not lay your Hops above eight or nine inches thick, which neverthelesse shall not be so soon dry, as they which lye upon the other Oste almost two foot thick, and therefore this way you shall make more toil in your work, more spoil in your Hops, and more expence in your wood.

Some use to dry their Hops in a Garret, or upon the floor of a Loft or Chamber, in the reproof whereof I must say, that as few men have room enough in their houses to contain a­ny great quantity or multitude of Hops, so the dust that will arise shall empair them, the chinks, crevises, and open joynts of your Lofts, being not close byrthed, will devour the seeds of them. in the end the Leaves will endanger them with heating, when they are packt, as being not so soon dry as the Hops, which thereby will be utterly spoiled in colour, in scent and in verdure.

As for any low rooms or earthen floors, they are yet worse for this purpose than the other, for either they yield dust in drynesse, or moisture in wet weather.

And therefore if you have no Oste, dry them in a Loft as open to the air as may be: sweep, wash and rub the boards, and let your Broom reach to the walls, and even to the roof of your Loft, for I can teach you no way to divide the dust from your Hops, but so to prevent the inconvenience hereof.

Stop the holes and chinks of your floor, lay them not a­bove half a foot thick, and turn them once a day at the least, by the space of two or three weeks.

This being done, sweep them up into a corner of your Loft, and there let them lye as long more, for yet there remain­neth perill in packing of them.

If the year prove very wet, your Hops ask the longer time of drying, and without an Oste will never be well dryed.

The very worst way of drying Hops.

SOme lay their Hops in the Sun to dry, and this taketh away the state of the Hoppes, contrary to the [Page 124] purpose of drying, which is very prejudiciall to the Brewer.

Of not Drying.

SOme gather them, and brew with them being green and undryed, supposing that in drying the vertue and state of the Hop d [...]cayeth and fadeth away, wherein they are decei­ved: for the verdure is worse, the strength lesse, and the quan­tity must be more of green Hops, that are to be brewed in this sort.

In the first wort, which the Brewers call the Hop-wort (because the time of seething thereof is short) there goeth out of these Hops almost no vertue at all, and therefore ex­perience hath taught them that are driven to brew with these green Hops, to seeth them again in the wort, which they call Ney-beere, where after long seething they will leave the state which remaineth in them, and that is not much.

Of the packing of Hops.

IN the making of your Hop-sacks, use your own cunning or invention, for I have small skill therein, Howbeit I can tell you, that the Hop-sacks which are brought out of Flan­ders, may be good Samplers for you to work by, the stuffe is not dainty where with they are made, the Loom is not cost­ly wherein they are woven, the cunning not curious whereby they are fashioned, but when you have them, and are ready to pack your Hops, do thus.

Thrust into the mouth of your Sack (which must be dou­bled and turned in strongly lest it break) four strong pinnes, a foot long a piece, placed in equall distance the one from the other, then lay two Bats, or big Poles crosse or thwart two beams or couplings of your house, which two Bats mustly no further asunder than the wideness [...] of the Sacks mouth. Fasten upon each pin a Rope, and knit two of those Ropes upon each crosse Bat, so as the bottome of the Sack being empty, may hang within half a foot of the floore, then stand within the Sack, and receive the Hops, treading down very hard, and before the Sack be half full, it will rest upon [Page 125] the ground, whereby you shall be able to presse them the harder together.

But the handsommer way were to make a square hole (as wide as the Sacks mouth) in the floor of the loft, where your Hops lye, and to hang down your Sack at that hole, and with a Scuppet or shovell to shove down your Hops therein­to, and to receive them as is aforesaid: when the Sack is al­most full, undo the Ropes, and wind those pinnes about for the harder shutting of the Sack, and fasten them therein.

If you please, you may sow (over the mouth of this Sack) another piece of Sackcloth, whereof you must leave a little unsowed, untill you have thrust as many Hops as you can between the Sack and the same, but in beholding the Hop­sacks sent from Poppering, you shall better understand and learn the doings hereof.

For your own provision, you may preserve them in Dry­fats, Barrells, or such like vessells, for want of room to leave them in, or Sacks to pack them in.

There is according to the Proverb, much falshood in packing, I am unskillfull in that Art, If I were otherwise, I would be loth to teach such dctorine.

But to avoid such deceit, and to make the more perfect and better choice, it is usuall and lawfull in most places, where Hops are sold, to cut the Sack that you mean to buy, in seven or eight places, and to search at each place, whether the Hops be of like goodnesse.

Such places as you shall feel with your hand to be softer than the rest, you should specially cut, where perhaps you shall find Hops of another kind, elder or worse than the rest.

The reformation of a Garden of wild-Hops.

TO reform a Garden where the Hops be wild, the work is tedious, and none other way remaineth, but to dig over the same with a Spade, so deep as you may search out and throw out every root, and piece of Root that [Page 126] may be found in, or near thereunto, and then to plant accor­ding to the order before declared.

The reformation of a disordered Garden.

TO repair a ruinous Garden, which through ignorance was disorderly set, and through sloth suffered to over­run and decay, where neverthelesse, the Hops remain of a good kind (though somewhat empaired, as they must needs be by this mean) the very best way were to do as to the wild Hop.

The second way is to forget that it is disordered at all, ima­gining that all were well, and to set your Poles in such order and so far asunder, as is prescribed in that Title, alwayes di­recting them right with a line, so as a stranger beholding them, may suppose that your Garden is kept after the best manner, then lead unto each Pole two or three stalks, which you shall find nearest thereunto, and there erect a hill which you may ever after cut and dresse according to the rules be­fore declared, and so by continuall digging, paring, and dili­gence, you may at last bring it to some reasonable perfection.

If your Garden be very much matted with roots, so asit be too tedious to digge, set your Poles as you are already taught, and bring into your Garden, and lay near to every such place, where you mean to make a hill, one Cart load of good earth, with the which, after your Hops are tyed to your Poles, begin to make your hill, and proceed as in the Title of hills, alwayes cutting down such Hops or weeds as grow between the said hills.

If your root be set orderly, and your hills made accor­dingly, and yet left undressed by the space of two or three years, it will be very hard (I say) to discern the Sets from the other later roots: neverthelesse if your ground be good, you may yet reform the inconvenience thereof, namely, by pulling down the hill, and cutting away all the roots con­tained therein, even with the face or upper part of the earth, searching also each side, and digging yet lower, and round a­bout [Page 127] the root which remaineth, and to take away from the same all such roots as appear out thereof.

Needlesse curiosities used by the unskilfull.

TO water your Garden, as to make the roots grow the better, it were more tedious then needfull, for the hil­ling thereof serveth for that purpose, and there is time of growing sufficient for them betwixt the middest of April and August; and yet it never hurteth, but rather doth good, if it be before the hill be made.

To pluck off the Leaves, to the end that the Hops may pro­sper the better, is also needlesse, and to no purpose, and rather hindereth than helpeth the growth of the Hops, for they are hereby deprived of that garment which Nature hath necessa­rily provided for them, and clothed them with.

To flaw the Poles, thereby to prolong their continuance, is more than needeth to be done in this behalf, for it is too tedious to your self, and hurtfull to your Hop, and little a­vailable to the purposes aforesaid.

To burn the nether part or great end of your Poles, as some do, to the end they should last or endure the longer, is also an unnecessary trouble, onely Willow-Poles you may so use, to keep them from growing.

So is it to weed the hills with the hand, whereas the same weeds shall be buried by the raising of the hill.

THus have you a brief and short Description of the Platform of a Hop-Garden: what ground is fit for them, as also the Scituation thereof, with the Proportion of ground a man may employ about Hops, which may either [Page 128] be according to his own expending in his own private Fa­mily, or else according to the charge which he intendeth to bestow about it, either of which will be well recompensed, if Gods blessing go along with the pains and industry of the Husbandman: for whose direction in the managing of his work, this small Treatise was compiled: for besides the Platform, fitnesse or unfitnesse of the Ground, &c. here. in you may learn how to choose, and set your Roots: the distance of the Hills one from another; the number of Hop-poles, which you are to set about each hills: in con­clusion your Hops being come to perfection, the manner of gathering, drying and packing them up that they may con­tinue long, and keep sweet. No man ever wrote more ful­ly concerning the ordering of Hops from the first setting them into the Ground, untill the drying, and laying them up for store, than this Authour hath done, none with more brevity.

The Husbandmans due observation of these Directions is required, and without question he cannot fall short of his expectation.

Here follow certaine directions for the Sowing, Planting and Transplanting of TABACO.

I Intend to write but sparingly of this subject (th [...]ough not very many have formerly treated here of:) I shall first therefore begin (passing by the severall names it is called by) as also the severall species or kinds thereof. With us in England generally it is called Tabaco, the shape and forme whereof very much resembleth the greater Com­fry, insomuch that some would take it, or rather mistake it for great Comfry, they may rather deeme it to be yellow Henbane, they are not much unlike. It hath a thick round stalk nere about two foot high, whereon do grow fat green leaves, but not so large as that which grows in the Indies, somewhat round pointed, not being notched or cut in the edges, and bigger down ward towward the root than it is a­bove: while it is young it is leaved, and putteth forth some branches distant from one another halfe a foot, whereby it is furnished with leaves, and putting forth severall joynts, at length it grows to a great height. The stalk branching forth beareth at the tops sundry flowers coming out of a swad or husk, having the fashion of a bell, scarce standing above the brinks of the husk: no sooner are the flowers gone, but the seeds appeare, which are very small, not much unlike the seeds of yellow henbane; when they are not yet ripe they are of a green colour, but when they be ripe, they are of a black colour. The roots are not very great nor woody, but peri­shing, [Page 130] but that, not withstanding the hard frosts in winter, it sprouts up againe in the Spring.

The seeds were first brought from some remote part of the world into this Commonwealth not many yeares since, and were it not for its physicall qualities that it hath, more than the great benefit which will redound to this Nation by planting it (being not of veric great esteeme) I had spared this labour: and my chiefe reason for this is, be­cause I am of opinion, that hearbs either transplanted, or brought in seed into this Land, (if it shall agree with the soyl) will agree better with the constitution of our bodies, than that which is brought from any forrein part from be­yond the Seas.

The nature of the Soyle that is required for the Sowing, Planting or Transplanting Tabaco.

THe most fruitfull and fertil soyle naturally, or by art so made, is most requisite for this purpose: if the Soyle be naturally fat and strong, regard likewise must be had of the scituation of the ground, whether in field or garden, that the place be not over-shadowed with Trees, whereby the Sunne may be hindered from yielding unto it its heat: neither must your Tabaco be planted or sowne in wide & large fields which lies open to all winds and wea­thers, especially the North winds. And as unkindly blasts are a great enemy to the thriving of it on the one side, so on the other side, the want of the comfort of the heat of the Sunne will so chill it, that it will never come to perfection.

But if by Art: your ground must be well dunged and manured, which ought to be mixed and incorporated with the earth, that there may not be the least appearance of Dung. Moreover the Dung you so make use of must lie a long time rotting, if it be gathered out of the stable: Your best soyle therefore for present occasion is such as is taken up in the streets, or else Ashes sifted. [Page 131] Your Hops and Tabaco will require the selfe manuring, and I am of opinion that such lands as they sow their Hempe in, must needs be fit for this purpose, because it is fat and mellow.

The best way of sowing your Seeds

SOme are of opinion that the Seeds should be care­lesly cast abroad without either sowing or raking, the ground being first prepared with the Plough or the Spade.

Others againe will tell you, that you must make a small hole in the ground with your finger, about the depth of your fingers length, wherein you may put ten or twelve seeds, and so cover the hole againe: and this reason they give for their so doing: for say they, the seeds being very small, are either subject to be blowne away by every small winde: or else parched by the ex­treame scorching heat of the Sunne. I prefer this way before the former.

Others againe would have us sow the seeds as Lettu­ces and other small seeds are committed to the ground, by taking some of the finest moulde, and putting it into a platter of wood, or some such like vessell, mix­ing the earth very well with the seed, and so cast to it on the ground very thinne and sparingly. This may be their reason, because the seed being mixed so well with the earth, will stick close to some small crummes of earth, that the wind cannot disperse it, and besides it occasioneth the speedier rooting thereof, and somewhat shelters it, that the heat of the Sunne will not much annoy it: but if you shall put a small quantity of Ashes very finely sifted into the vessell among the earth and seeds, it would be much better.

The time of Sowing or Planting.

IN the Moneths of March, Aprill, or May, the Seed may be committed to the earth, but the most fit and convenientest season is conceived to be in the middest of Aprill, or before (if the Spring be very forward) for March winds are no good friend unto them: wherefore a good way were to cover your beds, already sowed, with old Matts, and when the Sunne doth appeare to uncover them the next morning, but because you should spare some daily labour and toyle you might be put to, once for all fence it with reeds against the North-wind, for the space of a moneth or two.

Of ordering your ground after Sowing your Seed,

IN the first place keep your ground cleare from weeds, aswell before the sowing of the seed, as afterwards, because otherwise the weeds will choake the plant, and steal away the strength of the ground, which should nou­rish it. Also it would not be amisse to remove all stones from about them, because the stones will im­pede their growth, and may occasion it to grow awry, contrary to the nature of it. Indeed, if we will believe au­thors, it is a very sullen Plant, and apt to take distast, which may be the reason that Physicians terme it a hearbe of Mars, and I may adde another observation of my owne, that from hence it is that all the Souldiers so generally approve of it, that scarce one of a hundred can be well long without it. I write not this to give any encouragement to our English Planters of Tabaco, because when they have done all they can, they are recompenced with a sorry crop in eonclusion, it being, generally stiled by the name of Mundungos: but rather to animate Gentlemen, who happily may have spare ground enough, to sow and plant it in their Gardens, [Page 133] not that they should think thereby to make any great gain by it, but to have it in readinesse when occasion shall re­quire, either for his own or neighbours use. The rare vertues of Tabaco, the Physicians, Apothecaries and Her­balists, can best acquaint you with.

If the Season of the year prove hot and dry, after the sowing of your seed, you must have a speciall care to the watering of your ground, and this must be done neither too early, nor too late in the morning, especially in the Mo­neths of April or May, nor too late in the Evening, and after the leaf hath appeared above ground, about a foot high, you may then transplant them.

The manner of transplanting Tabaco.

YOu shall (for you must be very chary of roots that you perish them not) take a knife, or some other tool, and cut round about the roots all the earth so deep as you may take up the roots entire, which when you have done, you must be very chary in separating of them, (if there be more than one root) wherefore your best way is to take the earth, that you so digged up, with the roots, and put it into a Tub of water, and in short time the water will wash away the earth from the small and tender Imps, and by this means, you may sever the one Imp from the other without any danger of breaking them; the one being parted from the other, set them in the place (which before either was, or must now be prepared for them) about four foot distance, the one from the other, and as near as you can so order it, that it may have the benefit of the South Sun, and that they may be defended from the North-winds: with all let them not want of their due watering in Summer, for as drink to a thirsty soul; so water cherisheth and refresheth the drooping and almost dropping leaves of each Plant: but chiefly this Plant, which above all o­ther will require it, for of it sell, it is very hot by nature.

The time of gathering it for your use.

THe store that you intend to keep for your use by you, must be gathered before that it either flowreth or seed­eth, and therefore I conceive your best time woud be about the middle of June, for then it is in its full strength, and having gather'd it, you may not leave it in the Sun to dry, but as Colesfoot is ordered in drying, so may you order your Tabaco, and be sure that each leaf be through dry before you put them together, for fear lest they should grow musty, and by that means made uselesse, and to prevent this, your wi­sest course will be to let them hang severally by themselves, as at first, onely you may, if you please, remove them from the drying place in Winter into some warmer place, because though in the Summer, it lying open to the aire, it was be­neficiall to you, it may in the Winter prove as prejudi­ciall.

The time of flowring and seeding.

IT beareth Flowers from the latter end of June till the latter end of August, and they are of a greenish, yellow colour, which the stalk branching forth, doth bear at the top thereof: these flowers are set in green husks, but ap­pear not much above the brims of of the husks. The seed is likewise contained in the great heads, after the flowers are decayed.

Of the Roots and Leaves.

THe Roots and Leaves do yield a Gluish and Rofinsh kind of juice, somewhat yellow, and smelling somewhat like Rosin, but unpleasant, and of a sharp, eager and biting taste; which shews that it is by nature hot, more than in the second degree, and dry in the first, whereupon we may inferre, that it is no kind of yellow Henbane.

To preserve the Plant or Roote from dying [...]n the Winter.

THe root (as I said before) may spring up againe of its owne accord, but seldome after a sharp win­ter: for when long and tedious frosts have crusted the earth, out of all question the roote, if not pe­rished, will be much endangered, and at the 'Spring time not be able, thorough weaknesse, to prosper. Therefore I shall direct you how to preserve them, and keep the leaves green all the winter.

Some would have you sence about your ground with reeds, or such things, as will breake the force of the cold winds: and to preserve them from frosts, they advise you to cover the Plants with Matts: but as such a weight continually pressing the Plant downe will rotte it, so will it do but little good to the Plants in ex­tremity of Winter.

Others would have you make a slight house of Deale about your Plants to preserve them, which you may remove afterwards. Such as have enough may be at this un necessary charge.

But the best way, as I conceive, to preserve them is by removing them in the winter, the manner thus: Take up the root with the earth about them, put all into some pot or any other thing fit for the purpose, and set them in a warme place about your house, and let it abide there all the winter, but if the Sun chance to shine very hot, afford your Plant the benefit thereof for one hour or two, and so returne it to its former place, this is the most certaine way to preserve roots and Plants all the Winter, and in the Spring set them into the ground with the same earth about them.

FINIS.
The expert Gardener: …

The expert Gardener: OR, A Treatise containing certaine ne­cessary, secret, and ordinary knowledges in Grafting and Gardening; with divers proper new Plots for the Garden. Also sundry expert directions to know the time and season when to sow and replant all manner of Seeds. With divers remedies to destroy Snailes, Canker-wormes, Moths, Garden-Fleas, Earth-wormes, Moles, and other Vermine. Faithfully collected out of sundry Dutch and French Authors.

LONDON, Printed by William Hunt. 1654.

Certaine common Instructions how the Stumpe must be chosen whereupon you will graffe or plant.

EVery diligent Housholder who will plant, should use thereto a convenient place, to the end, that the wild beast chaw not, nor paire the plants; or if they be young, wholly eat in pieces; which to avoid, is needfull to be in a towne or closed Orchard, where there is not too much shadow, but a sweet ground well muckt, tilled and turned.

Every Plant will have foure things.

First moistnesse, so that the seeds or stumpe bee moist or green.

Secondly, a convenient place, which hath such earth as will lightly be rubbed to pouder, and that Sun may come to it; for where there is filthy lome, a lean ground, or sandy, dry, burnt, or salt ground, there is nothing good to be planted, to have any continuance; neverthelesse where the ground is lean, there you must give more dung; in a fat ground not so much. Take heed the ground be not too moist [Page 2] nor too dry; and muck the trees with hogs dung.

Thirdly, a mediate water or nourishing moistness, therefore be those Orchards best which are scituated between two waters; for those that are placed by a water side, remaine still young and fruitfull, and have commonly the bark smoother and thinner than the others. And those trees are more fruitful then others which are planted in a vally, or in the lower part of a deep hill; for from those hils may come to them nourishment and moistness, and the ground which is so scituated is very fruitfull. But he that cannot get for his trees such a ground, must with all diligence seek to bring to his trees a little spring or pond, of which the trees may sometimes find some reviving, and if you may not have any of those, and have a gar­den who by it selfe is naught, the trees wil grow with thick roots, which hindereth the growing of them, and drieth them at length.

Fourthly, the air is required, which must be agree­able to them, and of complexion to bear; for there be some trees that doe prosper in all aires, to wit, apple, and peare, cherry and plum-trees. Some will have a cold air, to wit, chesnut-trees; and some a very warm aire, as the palme and pepper trees: therefore they be rare with us. That plant which hath these four things shall prosper: and if they want one or more of these four things, they will decay and their prospe­ring perish.

At what time trees ought to be planted and set.

ALL kind of trees may be planted, transported, and cut in March, but it is better to turn them in October, for then the frost hurteth them not so [Page 3] much as at other times; for learned men say, that in dry Towns and warm Countries they plant in Octo­ber or November, and that in moist Towns and cold vallies, they plant in February or March: in none o­ther time may you plant or graffe. When you will plant or set againe wild stumps, if there be any thing broken at the root, cut it off. Every plant must be set two foot one from another, or at the least one foot, especially when they should beare strong fruites: likewise when thou wilt set strong seeds, as nuts, al­monds and peaches. When a man will plant two stumps, so must they be of two yeare old, except the vine.

These things you must understand of those plants or stumps which are planted with roots.

How the stumps and plants must be prepared and dressed, which you will plant.

THe plant or sprout you must cut round about, so that you leave the very end of it, and put it then into a hole, but if the stump be great, cut it clean off, and then put only the undermost part into a hole, long or short as you will; but if you find two stumps grown together, you may cut the lesser away. And above all things, you must take heed that the sprout grow upright, and if it will not, you must con­straine it, and tie it to a stick.

Here follow certaine instructions how the trees must be kept, and how you must labour them.

SOme trees will have a fat ground, as Figge trees and Mulberrie trees, and some leane ground, but [Page 4] all trees be in that point equall, that they will have in the top dry ground, and in the bottome moist earth.

2. In Harvest you must uncover the roots of the trees so deep, that they may partly be seen, and lay dung upon them, which dung must be dissolved of raine in the ground, that it may come to the roots, which mucking giveth good increase to the roots.

3. If the ground wherein the trees stand bee too sandy, then mix among it faire and new lome; and if it bee too lomy, then mix amongst it sand in place of mucke, the which you must not only doe hard by the tree, but also four or five foot off from it round about the tree, according as the tree is in bignesse, or that the roots are large and great.

Such diligence, giveth to the trees great help, for their nourishment and strength is thereby renewed. Hereafter you shall understand, whereby to know the fruitfull soile.

4. In the fat ground, the stumps whereupon you wil graff, must be left long, but in lean ground short.

5. The plants of trees from their youth, till three years must not be cut nor shred, but they may bee transported, and if they be too weak you may pricke sticks next unto them.

6. Diligent regard must be taken, that no sprouts spring out of the stump, which might take the nou­rishment from the tree sprouts, and those boughes which spring from the root of the tree at the first planting.

7. When thou perceivest the young trees to wax weake, then uncover the roots and put other fresh ground to them.

8. If the ground be neither too soft nor too hard, then may you chuse all kind of stumps in February for to plant, when the green juice is dispersed in the bark; but when the ground is too hard, then the swet holes or pores of the root doe remaine closed and stopped, so that they cannot draw to them their nou­rishment, such hardness of the ground or earth hin­dereth the aire and moistnesse which commeth from beneath upward, for it cannot be pierced of the soft sprouts, with the small heat which is beneath, there­fore you must come to help them with a spade, for with a plough you will never come to an end, because of the root.

9. There is great diligence to be taken for pre­serving of the trees, when they begin to grow great, to scrape from the barke all rudenesse which is done, when you take from them all superfluity and sprouts which come out of the tree. You may cut them in February.

10. It is good for the trees to muck them often, and moderatively to water their roots.

Also to cleave the roots, and lay stones into them, to the end they may revive againe of the dri­nesse which they have suffered, or of the barrennesse of the ground, or when the young planted trees for the great heat will perish. Also when immoderate heat is, then you must help them with turning of the ground, and with watering, but the water wherewith you should water them, must not be altogether fresh nor cold, or newly drawne out of the spring, but out of a ditch, pond, or well, or any other foule ditch wa­ter, or with spring water, which hath stood long in the Sunne, or put a little dun [...] in the water, and stir [Page 6] it once or twice well about, and the water will be fat wherwith water your trees. You may also keep them with shadowes and straw from the heat: or else put (in great heat) fat green herbs at the stump, tempred with loame: some anoint the stumpe (toward the South or Mid-day) with chalke, some with oile, or with any other ointment that cooleth.

11. When you would transpose a plant, or have wilde stumps digged out to plant again, then marke the part which standeth towards the South of Mid-day, and put it so againe when you graffe it.

How to keep plants, stumps, or trees, from the wild beasts, that they hurt them not.

WHere the path of the beast is free and reme­dilesse, there must be put poles, and with thornes the same young trees must be inclosed.

That the Deeres spoile them not.

TAke the pisse of a Deere and anoint the Tree therewith.

That the Hares doe not hurt them.

SPet in thy hand, and anoint the sprouts there­with, and no Hare will hurt them.

Here follow some instructions of graffing.

[depiction of a man on a ladder tending to a grafted tree]

FIrst, you must know that imping, graffing, and setting, is all one thing.

The imping sprouts must be young and new, with great bodies and many eyes: for where many and great buds be, that is a token, that is of a strong fruit.

2. The imping sprouts must be broken off at the Sun rising, although that those of the other side bro­ken off grow likewise: yet those of the other side are most naturall and temperate of heat: Some country clownes beleeve, that if you in cutting the sprouts turne them upside downe, that they will never grow right, but be crooked.

3 All graffing and imp [...]g is done by putting one [Page 8] into another by a fast binding, that the little sprout may spread his boughs to the stump or tree, wherein it is graffed, that so it may become one tree.

4. Over-young imps (which are so weak that they will breake before they be put into the earth, or into the stump) are naught, and therefore they may not be imped or set.

5. When you impe upon a house or fruit tree, the fruit will be far better: But if you cut of a Garden tree a branch, and imp it into one of his own sprouts, it will bring forth fruit of another taste, forme, and bignesse; for imping maketh all the diversities in peares, apples, and other fruits.

6 It is far better to impe low in the stump, than in the top in the high branches: yet neverthelesse if you will make of wild apple trees garden trees, you may impe them upon the top.

7. In great trees which have a great bark, it is not so good to impe, for they take not to them so easily the veins of the roots which grow out of the young sprouts, because of their hardnesse, and especially when the imping sprouts are too weak. Wherefore they which graffe trees must seek small and young stumps, wherein they finde much liquor and little hardnesse, and which may endure the binding.

8. It is best imping or graffing when the liquor is in the bark, if you have a great tree upon the which you would impe, and hath many branches, you may cut them all off, and impe into the stumps all kind of boughs, such as you please; but if the tree be over-old, so that her boughes be ranckled, and her moist­nesse consumed, then cut the tree clean off, and let [...]he stump stand a whole [...]eare; afterward take the [Page 9] sprouts which are sprung out of that stumpe, and graffe them, and cast the others away. Such a stump is like to bear, and therfore nourish as many sprouts as you please: but if it be a wild stump, graft garden sprouts upon it.

9. If you graffe a sprout or bough upon a Haw­thorne tree, that same bough will grow great, and the stump will remaine small, therefore he that will impe upon such a tree, see he cut it off by the root, then will the imped sprout and the stumpe grow all of one thicknesse: but you must have still regard that you impe kinde upon kinde, as apples upon apples, peares upon peares: for he that graffeth strange upon strange, as peares upon apples, and apples on peares, and such like, although it be done often for pleasures sake, yet will it not last; for the naturall nourishment is so, that it will hardly nourish a strange kinde of fruit.

10. The tree which is graffed in February, in his fruits grow no worms nor maggots.

11. When the imping sprouts begin to prosper, and will not grow streight and levell, then you must constrain them perforce, that they may grow order­ly. Furthermore you must have a care to keep the prospering sprouts well with sticks from the wind, if they stand any thing high, and especially when they have stood a year or two, and where they are pricked in the stump, it is most needfull, as shall af­ter appeare. And because there be many and divers waies to graffe, and know how wild stumps and trees are to be made garden trees, we thought it good to set some of them here down▪

Divers fashions and waies of graffing there be.

HE that will extraordinarily graffe all manner of trees, he must know, that the more one tree is li­ker another, the better it will prosper.

The first sort of graffing is, when the sprout is prickt between the bark and the wood of the stump; which must be done in May or Aprill, when the bark may easily be loosed from the tree, and is done after this sort.

First take a stump or tree, and cut him off with a sharp Saw, knife or such like instrument, where he is smoothest and clearest, and full of juice, and polish the place with the bark of the same tree which was cut off. Afterward ty the stump with a piece of bark, and then prick a hole between the barke of the tree with a prick of bone, elderwood or Iron, so that it cleave not, and then put in the place of the prick the sprout, which you must have broken off a plaine and even tree, of a good kind, and one year old, which you shall know by this; every branch hath rinckled knots like the joint of a mans finger, cut it at one side un­der the knot, so that you touch not the heart of the tree, and at the other side you must softly loose the barke, that the sp [...]out may joyne very close to the stump, then pull out the prick, and take the sprout, and turn the green bark to the bark of the stumpe, so that it may stand straight.

The sprout may be foure or five fingers, or eight at the most, high above the stump.

Of this sort of imping, you may see two, three, or more, according to the [...]gnesse of the stump, or as [Page 11] he can beare, provided alwaies that they stand at the least the length of a finger one from another.

Afterward tie it fast (with bark) together, and put over it good muck, and tie over it a cloath, that no raine or aire may come between it and hurt it. This sort of imping is commonly used in stumps, which are great and old trees, whose barke is thicke and strong, as apple trees, pear trees, cherry trees, and willow trees, on which are imped oftentimes apples, also on figge trees, and chestnut trees.

Such grafting is also done in high stumps, and branches, which be great, but they must be well kept from the wind, that it doe not break them.

After this sort you may graft many sorts and kinds of pears upon one tree, but if you bring peares upon apples, or apples upon pears stumps, it will not last long, as afore is said.

The first way of grafting prospereth best, and hath a good continuance, there be many other sorts of grasting, as followeth.

Another way of grafting is, when the stumps are clo­ven, and the sprouts afterwards are put in, the which doe as followeth.

TAke a young tree which is scant of the bigness of a finger, and cut it smoothe and even, and cleave it in the midst, then take the sprout which you will impe, and cut it three square, and at the one side leave the barke uncut, and then turne the same bark outward at the stump, and tie it fast as I have taught, that the winde nor raine hurt him not.

Otherwise.

When the stump is unco [...]ered and clean burnisht [Page 12] at the soft place, then tie him fast, that he cleave no further than to the length of your sprout, which you must graffe upon him, and then leave the prick in it, then make your sprout pointed like a prick, so that the middle be not touched, then put it into the cleft, having cleansed the hole first with the point of a knife, so that one bark may touch the other, and out­ward one wood another, to the end, the moisture may have the more easier his course, then pull out the pricke, and that which remaines open and bare be­tween the cleft and the sprout, that bind well every where with the bark of the tree, or with hard pres­sing with a little sand, or with dung of an Oxe, or with waxe, or with a linnen cloth washed in waxe, that no raine, winde or worms may hurt it. This helpeth much to keep the moistnesse in, which com­meth from the root, that it cannot breake out, but nourisheth the better the new plant; but when the stumps are great, they be cleaved after two waies. The first is, that you cut or cleave the tree with a knife at one side only, even to the heart, and that you graft into it but one sprout. The other is, that you cleave it all over, and that you prick or graft on every side one sprout, or one alone, and leave the o­ther side without.

When the stump is but a little bigger, then the sprout must necessarily be cloven in two, and you must graft but one sprout into it, as is said in the be­ginning.

This cleaving may be done in February, March, and Aprill, then it is good to cut them before they be greene, for to keepe them the better under the ground, in cold or moist places.

The third way of grafting.

THis sort of grafting is very subtill, witty, and ready; and is done as followeth.

Go to a smooth apple or peare tree, in April, when the trees get liquor, and seeke a branch which hath green eyes, and see that the same be lesse than your little finger, and teare it from the tree, and where you see that the green sprouts will come off, there cut them off wholly, and cleanse the middle there of, that the little red at the wood may turne about, and draw it not off, untill you come unto another good peare or apple tree, and seek there another branch of the same bignesse that the other was, and cut it off, and take from it likewise the red, as far as you will put them again, and look where the branches join, that they may well sit together upon the top, and tie the same place gently and well with a little barke, be­hinde and before, that the water may not hurt them: in the first year it bringeth forth leaves and branches, in the second floures, which you may breake off, for the sprout is yet too tender, so that it may bear no fruit, and in the third yeare it bringeth floures and fruit, and by this meanes you may graft divers kinds of peares and apples upon one tree. I have likewise set such sprouts upon wild stumps, and they have prospered.

The fourth way of grafting is,

HOw buds are transported and bound upon ano­ther tree, like as a plaister is tied to a mans body: this sort of grafting, is called in Latine Emplastrum. We read of such a sort of grafting which is called in Latine Abducellum, and it is much like unto this sort, wherefore we will only speake of it, being done after this sort.

When you see upon a great fruitfull bough, a bud which will prosper without doubt, and wouldst faine plant it upon another tree, take a sharp knife, and lift the bark up two fingers breadth, that the bud be not hurt, then goe to another tree, upon the which you will graft, and put into a convenient place, a like hole into the bark, and put the same bud with the bark in­to it, and tie it with dung (or with a clout that hath lien in a dunghill) over the cut, that it may be kept from the outward damage of weather, and for an e­speciall nourishment and keeping of the inner juice: then cut off the branches round about it, that the mo­ther may the better nourish the new sonne; within twenty days after take away the band, so that you see that the strange bud hath prospered, and joyned him­selfe with the tree. This may be done in March, when the bark cometh easily from the tree. Also in April, May, and Iune, and yet shee prospereth both before and after a time, when you may conveniently finde such buds.

This sort of planting prospereth best in a willow tree or such like, which is pierced through, and is done after this sort.

The fifth way.

When you pierce a willow stick with a sharp pler­cer, see that between every hole, be left the space of one foot, and prick therein branches a little scra­ped, and put the stick into a ditch, so that the bran­ches stand upright, one part of the stick remaining o­ver the earth; and within a year after take it out of the ditch, and cut the stick asunder, so find you the bran­ches full of roots, and put every one into a hole in the ground, and 'tis fit the holes were stopped with lome, or with wax.

Some do take in March a fresh Beech tree, which is of a mans thicknesse, and pierce him overthwart with maine and great holes and small holes, till unto the lowermost barke, or quite through: then take sprouts or boughes, which be as big and small, that they may fit into the holes; and when you will put them into the Beech stump, you must scrape the up­permost barke off, untill the green, and no further: then the bough must remain into the Beech, the sprouts must stand a foot, or somwhat lesse asunder, then keep your Beech stumps with the sprouts in a fresh ground, and skant a soot deep, you must first maime the sprouts, that they may not flourish; then the next March ensuing, dig it out with the sprouts, and cut it a sunder with a saw, and every block which is cut off with its branch, you must set in a fresh ground, and so they will bring forth the fruit the same yeare.

The sixth Way.

This way teaches how to graffe, that they may bring forth fruit the first yeare, which do as follows.

Pare an old stumpe of what kinde soever it be, the uppermost bark, till to the lower green barke, a span long or somewhat lesse, which do in Harvest in the wane of the Moone, and anoint it with Oxe dung and earth, and tye it with bark, and after in March when trees are transposed from one place to another then cut the same branch from the tree, and put it into the ground, and it wil bring fruit the same yeer. I have seen that one hath prickt sticks on Alhallow eve, in the earth, and hath pulled them out again up­on Christmas eve, and put boughes in the holes, and they have prospered and come out.

The seventh.

Pierce the top of a stump, which is not over small, and draw a bark through it, and maime it with a knife, as far as it standeth on the top, & in eight days after, poure water upon it, that the top of the stump may close. This must be done in harvest, and in the March following cut it off from the tree, and bruise the top, and put it with the same earth in other ground.

The eighth Way.

Will you graffe a tree that the fruit be without stones. Take a sprout and graff it into a great stump, with the thicker and lower part of the sprout, then take the upper or thinner end of the sprout, and cut it also fit to be graffed, and turne it downeward, and graffe it into the said stump; and when the sprout of both sides prospereth, cut it in the midst afunder, so that which is grown right upward with the tree, the fruit of it hath stones, but that which was the top of the sprout that groweth contrary, brings forh fruit without stones. And if so be the turned sprout pros­per, you must break off the other, to the end, that the turned sprout doe not perish, which you may try af­ter this sort; for oftentimes it commeth and prospe­reth, and many times it is perished and spoiled.

How Cherries are to be graffed, that they may come without stones.

WIll you make that Cherries grow without stones? pare a little Cherry tree at one year old at the stump, and cleave it asunder from the top to the root, which do in May, and make an Iron fit to draw the heart or marow from both sides of the tree; [Page 17] then tye it fast together, and anoint it with Ox dung or lome, and within a yeare after, when it is growne and healed, goe to another little tree which is of the same kind, and which hath not yet brought fruit, and graffe that same on the little tree, so shall that same tree bring his fruit without stones.

How a Vine is to be planted upon a Cherry tree.

PLant a Vine tree next unto a Cherry tree, and when it groweth high, then pierce a hole into the Cherry tree right above it, that the hole be no big­ger than the Vine is thick, and pare the upper bark of the Vine branch till unto the green, so farre as it must go through the tree, and look well to it that the branch of the Vine be not bruised, and wel anointed. You must not suffer any sprouts to come out of the Vine from the ground up, but unto the tree only, that which commeth out of the other side, let that same grow and bring fruit. Then the next March following if the Vine prosper and grow fast into the tree, then cut the Vine from the tree off, and anoint the place with diligence, and it will bring fruit.

How a grape of a Vine may be brought into a glasse.

WIll you make that a grape grow into a nar­row glasse? take the glasse before the grape cast her bloud, or while she is little, and put her into the glasse, and shee will ripen in the glasse.

To graffe Medlers on a Peare tree.

IF you graffe the branch of a Medler upon a Peare tree, the Medlers will be sweet and durable, so that you may keep them longer [...]h [...]n otherwise.

How apples or other fruit may be made red.

IF you will graft upon a wild stump, put the sprouts in Pikes bloud, and then graft them, and the fruit will be red.

Otherwise.

Take an apple branch, and graft it upon an alder stump, and the apples will be red. Likewise if you graft them upon cherry trees.

Of the Quince tree.

THe Quince tree commeth not of any grafting, but you must plucke him out by the roots, and plant him againe into a good ground or earth.

Otherwise.

The Quince tree requireth a dry and sweet ground, and he prospereth therein.

How to make that Quinces become great.

TAke a branch of a Quince tree when it hath cast his bloud where a Quince groweth at, and put it into a pot, and set it into the ground, and let the Quince grow in it, and it will be very great.

And if you will shew some cunning therewith, cause to be made a pot which hath a mans face in the bottome of it, or any other picture whatsoever, and when the quinces have blossomed, then bow the branch, and put the Quince into the pot, and she will grow very big, in the shape of a man, which may also be done in Pompons, Mellons, Cucumbers, and other earthly fruites.

The conclusion of graffing.

OVT of all the forewritten causes (gentle reader) is evidently shewne, that although every plan­ting or grafting be better from like to like, and from [Page 19] kinde to kinde, yet neverthelesse it agreeth also with contrary kinds, as now is said; wherefore he that will exercise and use the same, and try divers kindes, he may see and make many wonders.

What joy and fruit commeth of trees.

The first fruit.

THe first is, that you plant divers & many kinds: for every housholder who hath care to his nourishment, with all diligence causeth oftentimes, such trees to be brought from forrein Countries.

The second.

The second is, when the trees be planted and set orderly and pleasantly, they give no small pleasure to a man, therefore every one should cut his trees or­derly, and he that cannot, should procure other men to doe it, which know how to doe it.

The third is of well smelling and spiced fruit.

Cleave a tree asunder, or a branch of a fruitfull tree, to the heart or pith, and cut a piece out of it, and put therein poudred spices, or what spice seever you will, or what colour you will desire, and tye a barke hard about it, and anoint it with lome and Ox dung, and the fruit will gett both the savour and co­lour according to the spice you have put in it.

How sowre fruits be made sweet.

WHich tree beareth sowre fruites, in the same pierce a hole a foot or somewhat lesse above the root, and fill that with honey, and stop the hole with a haw-thorne branch, and the fruit will bee sweet.

How trees ought to be kept when they wax old.

WHen trees lose their strength and vertue for age, and the branches break off for the weight of the fruit, or when they wax barren for lack of moisture, that they beare not fruit every year, but scant every other or third yeare, you must cut some of his heavy branches, which he can little nourish, which is done to the end he might keep some moist­nesse to himselfe for his nourishment, or else the moistnesse would goe all into his branches.

Whereby you may mark whether you must give them, or take away from them branches, according to their nourishment, and as the earth where shee standeth can abide, that is, you must leave them so much as will nourish them, and no more, which if you doe not, the trees will bring so little fruit, that your labour will not be recompensed.

Which cutting of trees may be done from the be­ginning of November till to the end of March, in warme countries. But it is more naturall to be done from the time that the leaves fall, till the time that they begin to grow green againe, except where the frost is very great and sharp.

How trees must be kept from divers sicknesses, and first how to keep them from the Canker.

WHen the Canker commeth in any tree, he becommeth barren and dry, for it mounteth from the stumps into the top, and when it taketh a peare or apple tree, the bark will be black and barren thereabouts, which must be cut off with a knife, to the fresh wood, and then the place must be anointed with Oxe dung, and tied with barke, so that neither wind nor rain may hurt it.

Against worms which must be driven out of the tree.

IT happeneth oftentimes, that the superfluities of moistnesse in the trees breaketh out like as some­times to a man or beast between the flesh and skin: and when that beginneth to rot, wormes grow out of it, which takes his strength away: wherefore mark,

When the barke of a tree at any time swels, cut it presently open that the poison may runne out, and if you find already wormes in it, draw them out with a little Iron hook.

How the wormes are to be killed, if they be al­ready grown into the tree.

IF you will kill the worms which grow in the tree, take Pepper, Lawrell, and Incense, and mingle all well together with good wine, and pierce a hole into the tree downeward, to the pith or heart of the tree, and poure this mixture into it, and stop it with a hawthorne, and the worms will dye.

Otherwise.

Take ashes or dust and mingle it with sallet oyle, anoint the trees therewith, and the worms will dye.

Otherwise.

Take powdered Incense when you graffe, and bring it between the barke of the stump, which you will graffe, and no wormes will eat the fruit.

When a tree in many places becommeth change­able because of wormes, or superfluous humours, Cleave the tree at some end from the top of the stump to the earth, that all the foule liquors may come out and dry. Also when a tree becomes sick because of evill humours or fault of ground, so that he becommeth worme-eaten, or brings no fruit, take [Page 22] the earth away from the root, and put other sweeter in the place, and pierce a great hole in the stump, and put therein a pin of Oake, and it helpeth.

A remedy against Caterpillers.

ALL kind of Caterpillers which eat the green, and blossomes of the tree, doe hurt them very much, so that thereafter may come no fruit.

Therefore their eggs which lye hidden, as it were in a cobwebbe, must diligently be searched, and bur­ned from the boughes, before they bring forth other Caterpillars, which doe in December, Ianuary, and February.

Some were wont to break them off, and tread them with their feet, but therewith they be not wholly kil­led. The fire consumeth all things, and therefore it is best to burne them.

Against the Pismires or Ants, when they will hurt the young trees.

CVT the leaves off which are eaten or poisoned of the Ants or Pismers, and where there is any thinge made uncleane in the top of the tree, of those little worms, that rub inpieces with your hands, that it may not stain the other leaves, and that the young sprouts may grow up without any hinderance.

How to keep the Pismires from the trees.

FIrst make a juice of an herbe, called Portabaca, and mix it with vineger, and sprinkle the stump ther­with, or anoint the stumpe with wine dregs. Some take a little weak pitch, but very thin; that it may not hurt the tree.

Another Instruction.

Take a little bundle of cotton, wooll, flax, or towe, and lay it about the stump, and tie likewise a bundle above, about the stump, and draw it out a little, and the Pismires can do no hurt: or put about the stump bird-lime.

In what time of the harvest the fruit must be gathered.

THe Fruits are not altogether at one time gathe­red, for they are not ripe all at once, as some pears which shew the ripenesse by the colour, those should be gathered in Summer, and if you let them stand too long, they will not last.

Peares which are ripe in harvest, those may be ga­thered in October, when the weather is cleare and dry: in harvest in the increase of the Moon, Fruits may be gathered.

A short Instruction very profitable and necessary for all those that delight in Gardening, to know the times and seasons when it is good to sow and replant all manner of seeds.

CAbbages must be sowne in February, March, or April, at the waning of the Moon, and replan­ted also in the decrease thereof.

Cabbage, Lettuce, in February, March, or Iuly, in an old Moon.

Onyons and Leeks must be sowne in February or March, at the waning of the Moon.

Beets must be sown in February, or March, in a full moone.

Coleworts white and green in February, or March, in an old moone, it is good to replant them.

Parsneps must be sown in February, April or Iune, also in an old moone.

Radish must be sown in February, March, or June, in a new moon.

Pompions must be sown in February, March, or Iune, also in a new moone.

Cucumbers and Mellons must be sown in Febru­ary, March or June, in an old moone.

Spinage must be sown in February or March, in an old moone.

Parsley must be sowne in February or March, in a full moone.

Fennell and Annisseed must be sowne in February or March, in a full moone.

White Cycory must be sown in February, March, July or August, in a full moon.

Carduus Benedictus must be sowne in February, March or May, when the moone is old.

Basill must be sowne in March, when the moon is old.

Purslane must be sown in February or March, in a new moone.

Margeram, Violets and Time, must be sowne in February, March or Aprill, in a new moone.

Floure-gentle, Rosemary and Lavender, must be sowne in February or Aprill, in a new moone.

Rocket and Garden cresses, must be sowne in Fe­ [...]ruary in a new moon.

Savell must be sowne in February or March, in a new moone.

Saffron must be sown in March, when the moon is old.

Coriander and Borage must be sown in February or March, in a new moon.

Hartshorne and Samphire must be sowne in Fe­bruary, March or Aprill, when the moon is old.

Gilly-flowers, Harts-ease, and Wall-flowers must be sown in March or Aprill, when the moon is old.

Cardons and Artochokes must be sown in Aprill or March when the moon is old.

Chickweed must be sown in February or March, in the full of the moone.

Burnet must be sown in February or March, when the moone is old.

Double Marigolds must be sowne in February or March, in a new moone.

Isop and Savorie must be sowne in March, when the moone is old.

White Poppy must bee sowne in February or March, in a new moone.

Palma Christi must be sowne in February, in a new moone.

Sparages and Sperage is to be sowne in February, when the moone is old.

Larks foot must be sowne in February, when the moone is old.

Note that at all times and seasons, Lettuce, Radish, Spinage and Paseneps may be sowne.

Note also, from cold are to be kept Coleworts, Cabbage, Lettuce, Basill, Cardons, Artochokes, and Colefloures.

Worthy remedies and socrets availing against the stroying of Snailes, Cankerwormes, the long bodied Moths, Garden-fleas, Earth­wormes, and Moles.

AFricanus, singular among the Greek writers of husbandry, reporteth, that Garden-plants and roots may well be purged and rid of the harmefull wormes, if their dennes or deep holes be smoaked, the winde aiding, with the dung of the Cow or Oxe burned.

That worthy Pliny in his first booke of Histories writeth, that if the Owner or Gardener sprinckleth the pure mother of the oyle Olive, without any salt in it, doth also drive the wormes away, and defend the Plants and Herbs from being gnawne of them. And if they shall cleave to the roots of the plants, through malice or breeding of the dung, yet this weedeth them clean away. The plants or herbs will not after be gnawne or harmed by Garden-fleas, if with the naturall remedy, as with the herbe Rocket, the Gardener shall bestow his beds in many places.

The Coleworts and all pot-herbs are greatly de­fended from the gnawing of the Garden-fleas, by Radish growing among them. The eager or sharp vineger doth also prevaile, tempered with the juice of Henbane, and sprinkled on the garden fleas. To these, the water in which the herbe Nigella Romana shall be steeped for a night, and sprinkled on the plants, as the Greek Pamphilus reporteth, doth alike prevaile against the garden-fleas.

Paladius Rutilius reporteth, that the noisome ver­mine or creeping things will not breed of the Pot­herbes, [Page 27] if the Gardener shall before the committing to the earth, dry all the seeds in the skin of the Tor­toise, or sow the herbe Mint in many places of the Garden, especially among the Coleworts. The bitter Fitch and Rocket (as I before uttered) bestowed a­mong the pot-herbs, so that the seeds be sowne in the first quarter of the Moon, doe greatly availe us. Also the Canker and Palmer wormes, which in many pla­ces work great injury both to the Gardens and vines, may the owner or Gardener drive away with the fig-tree ashes sprinckled on them and the herbs.

There be some which sprinckle the plants and herbes made with the lee of the fig-tree ashes, but it destroyes the wormes, to strew (as experience repor­teth) the ashes alone on them.

There be others which rather will to plant or sow that big on you, named in Latine Scilla or Squilla here and there in beds, or hang them in sundry places of the Garden.

Others also will to fixe River Cresses with nailes in many places of the garden, which if they shall yet withstand or contend with all these remedies, then may the Gardener apply to exercise this devise, in taking the Ox or Cow urine, and the mother of oyle Olive, which after the well mixing together, and heating over the fire, the same be stirred about untill it be hot, and when through cold, this mixture shall be sprinckled on the pot-herbs and trees, doth mar­vellously prevaile, as the skilfull Anatolius of experi­ence reporteth.

The worthy Paladias Rutilius reporteth, that if the owner or Gardener burne great bundles of the Gar­licke blades (without heads) dried, through all the [Page 28] allies of the Garden, and unto these the dung of Backes added, that the savour of the smoke (by the helpe of the wind) may be driven to many places, es­pecially to those where they most abound and swarm, and the Gardener shall see so speedy a de­struction, as is to be wondred at.

The worthy Pliny of great knowledge, reporteth that these may be driven from the pot-herbes, if the bitter Fitch seeds be mixed and sown together with them, or the branches of the trees, Crevises hanged up by the hornes in many places, doth like prevaile. These also are letted from increasing; yea, they in heaps presently gathered are destroied, as the Greeks report of observation, if the Gardener by taking cer­taine Palmer or Canker-wormes out of the Garden next joyning, shall seeth them in water with Dill, and the same being through cold, shall sprinckle on the herbes and trees, that the mixture may wet and soke through the nests, even unto the young ones, cleaving together, that they may taste thereof, will speedily dispatch them. But in this doing, the Gar­dener must be very wary, and have an attentive eye, that none of the mixture fall on his face or hands.

Besides these, the owner or Gardener may use this remedy certain, and easily prepared, if about the big armes of trees, or stumps of the herbs, he kindle and burn the stronger lime and brimstone together. Or if the owner make a smoake with the Mushromes, growing under the Nut tree, or burne the hoofs of Goats, or the gum Galbanum, or else make a smoak with the Harts horne, the winde aiding, by blowing towards them.

The husbandmen and gardeners in our turne have [Page 29] found out this easie practise, being now common e­very where: which is on this wise, that when these af­ter-showres of rain are cropen into the warm sun, or into places standing against the Sunne, early in the morning shake either their fruits and leaves of the pot-herbes, or the boughes of the trees, for these be­ing yet stiffe, through the cold of the night, are pro­cured of the same, the lighter and sooner to fall, nor able after to recover up againe, so that the Palmer worms thus lying on the ground, are then in a rea­dinesse to be killed of the Gardener.

If the owner mind to destroy any other creeping things noyous to herbes and trees, (which Paladius and Rutilius name, both herb and Leek-wasters) then let him hearken to this invention and devise of the Greek Dyophanes, who willeth to purchase the maw of a Wether sheep new killed, and the same as yet full of his excrementall filth, which lightly cover with the earth in the same place, where these most haunt in the Garden, and after two dayes shall the Gardiner find there, that the mothes with long bo­dies, and other creeping things will be gathered in divers companies to the place right over it, which the owner shall either remove and carry further, or dig and bury very deep in the same place, that they may not after arise and come forth, which when the Gardener shall have exercised the same but twice or thrice, he shall utterly extinguish, and quite destroy all the kindes of creeping things that anoy and spoil the Garden plants.

The husbandmen in Flanders arme the stockes, and compasse the bigger armes of their trees, with wisps of straw handsomely made and fastened or [Page 30] bound about, by which the Palmer wormes are con­strained to creep up to the tops of the trees, and there staid, so that, (as it were by snares and engines laid) these in the end are driven away, or thus in their way begun, are speedily or soone after procured to turne backe againe; As unto the remedies of the Snailes particularly belongs. These may the Gardener like­wise chase from the kitchin herbs, if he either sprin­ckle the new mother of the oyle olive, or soot of the chimney on the herbs, as if he bestowed the bitter sitch in beds among them, which also availes against other noisome worms, and creeping things, as I afore uttered, that if the Gardener would possesse a greene and delectable Garden, let him then sprinckle dili­gently all the quarters, beds, and borders of the Gar­den, with the mixture of water and powder of Fenni­greeke tempered together, or set upright in the mid­dle of the Garden, the whole bare head without the flesh of the unchaste Asse, as I afore wrote.

Excellent inventions and helps against the Garden. Moles.

THe skilfull Paxanus hath left in writing, that if the Gardener should make hollow a big nut, or bore a hollow hole into some sound piece of wood being narrow, in filling the one or the other with Rosin, Pitch, Chaffe and Brimstone, of each so much as shall suffice to the filling of the Nut, or hollow hole in the wood, which thus prepared in a readi­nesse, stop every where with diligence, all the goings Forth, and breathing holes of the Mole, that by those the fuming smoke in no manner may issue out, yet [Page 31] so handle the matter, that one mouth and hole bee only left open, and the same so large, that well the nut or vessell kindled within, may be laid within the mouth of it, whereby it may take the wind of the one side, which may so send in the savour both of the ro­sin and brimstone into the hollow tombe, or resting place of the Mole; by the same practise so worke­manly handled, by filling the holes with the smoak, shall the owner or Gardener either drive quite away all the Moles in the ground, or finde them in a short time dead.

There be some that take the white Neesewort, or the rinde of Cynocrambes beaten and farced, and with Barley meale and egs finely tempered together, they make both Cakes and Pasties wrought with wine and milk, and those they lay within the Moles den or hole.

Albertus of worthy memory reporteth, that if the owner or Gardener closeth or diligently stoppeth the mouths of the Moleholes, with the garlicke, ony­on, or leek, it shall either drive the Moles away, or kil them through the strong savour stinking or brea­thing into them.

Many there be, that to drive away these harmfull Moles, doe bring up young Cats in their Garden ground, and make tame Weasels, to the end, that ei­ther of these through the hunting of them, may so drive away this pestiferous anoyance, being taught to watch at their strait passages, and mouths of the holes comming forth.

Others there be also, which diligently fill and stop up their holes with the red Okare or Ruddell, and juice of the wild Cucumber, or sow the seeds of [Page 32] Palma Christi, being a kind of Satyrion, in beds, through which they will not after cast up, nor tarry thereabout.

But some exercise this easie practise, in taking a live Mole, and burning the pouder of brimstone a­bout him, being in a deep earthen pot, through which he is procured to cry, all others in the meane time as they report, are moved to resort thither.

There are some besides, which lay silke snares at the mouth of their holes.

To the simple Husbandmen may this easie pra­ctise of no cost suffice, in setting downe into the earth, a stiffe rod or green branch of the Elder tree.

FINIS.
[depiction of a man attaching a graft to a tree-stump, with two nearby trees already grafted]
[diagram of a planting scheme]
[depiction of gardening tools or instruments including sickles, saws, trowels, a hammer and a file]
A Direction to set or lay your lines or thread to make or draw a simple Knot, without a border.

You must leave your Lines as they be first set, untill your Knet be altogether finished or done.

The Manner or Ordering to set the thread or line upon another manner of Knot.
A Direction to fasten your Lines to make another manner of Knot.
A plaine Knot without Lines.
A plaine Knot without Lines.
Another plaine Knot without Lines.
Another.
Another.
Another.
Another.
Another.
Another.
A Direction to fasten Cords or Lines to draw a Knot with a Border; as also to make a Border of Beds parted in the midst.
A Direction of the Cords fastned upon the Border, with a Knot in the midst.
A Border with a Knot in the midst thereof.
A Border or Knot divided or parted, con­taining five small Knots.
The forme of the Lines set upon the Knot, whose Squares or Beds are parted.
A Border of Beds or Squares parted; and the midst thereof.
A Maze.
[diagram of a planting scheme including a pond with fish]

The Art of ANGLING. WHEREIN Are discovered many rare Secrets, very necessary to be knowne by all that delight in that Recreation.

LONDON, Printed in the Yeare 1653.

The Art of Angling.

REader: I will complement, and put a case to you. I met with a man, and upon our Discourse he fell out with me: this man having a good wea­pon, having neither wit, stomack, nor skill; I say this man may come home by Totnam-high-Cross, and cause the Clerk to tole his knell: It is the very like case with the Gentleman Angler that goeth to the River for his pleasure: this Ang­ler hath neither judgement, knowledge, nor experi­ence; he may come home light laden at his pleasure.

A man that goeth to the River for his pleasure, must understand, when he commeth there, to set forth his Tackles. The first thing he must do, is to observe the Sun, the Wind, the Moon, the Starres, and the Wanes of the Air; to set forth his Tackles according to the times and seasons; to goe for his pleasure, and some profit.

As for example, the Sun proves cloudy; then must he set forth either his ground Bait or Tackles, and of the brightest of his Flies. If the Sun prove bright, then must he put on some of the darkest of his flies. Thus must you goe to work with your Flies, light for darkness, and dark for lightness, with the wind in the South, then that blows the Flie in the Trouts mouth. Though I set down the wind being in the South, if the weather be warm, I am indifferent where the wind standeth, either with ground Bait [Page 2] or Menow, so that I can cast my Bait into the Ri­ver. The very same observations is for night, as for day: For if the Moon prove cleer, or if the Stars glitter in the skie, there is as ill Angling that night, as if it were at high noon in the midst of Summer, when the Sun shineth at the brightest, wherein there is no hopes of pleasure.

I will begin to Angle for the Trout, with the ground Baits with this quality.

The first thing you must gaine, must be a neat taper Rod, light before, with a tender hazell top, which is very gentle. If you desire to attain my way of Angling, (for I have Angled these forty years) with a single haire of five lengths, one tied to ano­ther for the bottom of my Line, and a Line of three haired links for the uppermost part; & so you may kill the greatest Trout that swims, with Sea-room.

He that Angles with a Line made of three haired links at the bottom, and more at the top, may kill Fish: but he that Angles with one hair shall kill five Trouts to the others one; for the Trout is very quick sighted; therefore the best way for night or day, is to keep out of the sight. You must Angle al­wayes with the point of your Rod downe the stream; for a Fish hath not the quickness of sight so perfect up the stream, as opposite against him, ob­serving seasonable times; as for example, we begin to Angle in March; If it prove cloudie, you may Angle with the ground Baits all day long: but if it prove bright and cleere, you must take the mor­ning and evening, or else you are not like to do any good; so the times must be observed, and truely understood; for when an Angler commeth to the River for his pleasure that doth not understand to [Page 3] set forth his Tackles fit for the time, it is as good keep them in the bag, as set them forth.

I am determined to Angle with the ground Baits and set my Tackles to my Rod, and go to my pleasure: I be­gin at the uppermost part of the streame, carrying my Line with an upright hand, feeling the Plummet run­ning on the ground some ten inches from the hook, plumming my Line according to the swiftnesse of the stream you Angle in; for one plummet will not serve for all streams; for the true Angling is that the plum­met runneth on the ground.

For the Bait. The red knotted worme is very good where Brandlins are not to be had, but Brandlins are better: now that you may bring these Brandlings fit to Angle with, that they may live long on the hook, which causeth the best sport. When you have gathered your worms out of the dung-hill, you must gaine the greenest Moss you can find, then wash the earth very clean out of it, then provide an earthen pot, so put your Moss into the pot, then put the worms to the Moss into the pot; within two days you shall find your worms so poor, that if you bait some of them on your hook, you shall see that with throwing of them two or three times into the water, they will dye and grow white: now the skill is, when these worms be grown poor, you must feed them up to make them fat and lusty, that they may live long on the hook; that is the chiefest point.

To make them lusty and fat, you must take the yolke of an Egge, some eight or ten spoonfull of the top of new milk, beaten well together in a Porringer, warm it a little, untill you see it curdle; then take it off the fire, and set it to coole; when it is cold, take a spoonfull and drop it upon your Moss into the pot, every drop about the bignesse of a green Pea, shifting your Moss twice in [Page 4] the week in the Summer, and once in the winter: thus doing, you shall feed your wormes fat, and make them lusty, that they will live a long time on the hook; so you may keep them all the year long. This is my true experience for the ground Baits, for the running Line for the Trout.

The Angling with a Menow, called in some places Pencks for a Trout, is a pleasant sport, and killeth the greatest Fish; be commeth boldly to the Bait, as if it were a Mastive Dog at a Beare: you may Angle with greater Tackles, and stronger, & be no prejudice to you in your Angling: a Line made of three silks and three hairs twisted for the uppermost part of the Line, and two silkes and two haires twisted for the bottome next your hook, with a Swivel nigh the middle of your Line, with an indifferent large hook.

To bait your hook with a Menow, you must put your hook through the lowermost part of his mouth, so draw your hook thorow, then put the hook in at the mouth againe, let the point of the hook come out at the hindmost Fin, then draw your Line, and the Menowes mouth will close, that no water will get into its belly; you must alwayes be Angling with the point of your Rod down the stream, with drawing the Menow up the stream by little and little, nigh the top of the water; the Trout seeing the bait, commeth at it most fiercely, so give a little time before you strike: This is the true way, without Lead; for many times I have had them come at the Lead and forsake the Menow, so he that tryeth shall prove it in time: let us go to Angling with a Flie, which is a delightfull sport.

The Rod must be light and tender, if you can fit your selfe with an Hazell, either of one piece or two set together in the most convenient manner, light and [Page 5] gentle: set your Line to the Rod; for the uppermost part, you may use your owne discretion; for the lower part, next your Flie, must be of three or foure haired links. If you can attain to Angle with one haire, you shall have the more rises, and kill more fish; be sure you doe not over-load your self with the length of your Line: before you begin to Angle, make a triall, having the winde in your back, to see at what length you can cast your Flie, that the Flie light first into the water, and no longer; for if any of the Line falleth into the water before the Flie, it is better unthrowne then throwne: be sure you be casting alwayes downe the stream, with the Wind behinde you, and the Sun before; it is a speciall point to have the Sunne and Moon before you; for the very motion of the Rod drives all the plea­sure from you, either by day or night in all your Ang­ings, both for Wormes and Flies; so there must bee a great care of that.

Let us begin to Angle in March with the Flie: If the weather prove Windie, or Cloudie, there are severall kindes of Palmers that are good for that time.

First, a black Palmer ribbed with silver: the second, a black Palmer with an Orange-tauny body: thirdly, a black Palmer, with the body made all of black: fourth­ly, a red Palmer ribbed with gold, and a red hackle mixed with Orenge cruel; these Flies serve all the year long morning and evening, windie and cloudie. Then if the Aire prove bright and cleare, you must imitate the Hauthorn Flie, which is all black and very small, and the smaller the better. In May take the May-flie: imitate that, which is made severall wayes; some make them with a shammy body, ribbed with a black haire: another way made with Sandy-Hogges wooll, rib­bed with black silke, and winged with a Mallards [Page 6] feather, according to the fancy of the Angler. There is another called the Oak-Flie, which is made of Orange colour Cruell and black, with a browne wing; imitate that: Another Flie, the body made with the strain of a Pea-Cocks feather, which is very good in a bright day: The Grasse-hopper which is green, imitate that; the smaller the Flies be made, and of indifferent small hooks, they are the better; these sorts I have set downe, will serve all the year long, observing the times and sea­sons: Note, the lightest of your Flies for cloudy and darknesse, and the darkest of your Flies for lightnesse, and the rest for indifferent times; that a mans owne Judgement, with some experience and discretion must guide him: If he mean to kill Fish, he must alter his Flies according to these directions. Now, of late, I have found, that Hogs-wooll, of severall colours, makes good grounds; and the wooll of a red Heyfer makes a good body: And Bears wool makes a good ground; so I now work much of them, and it procureth very much sport.

The naturall Flie is sure Angling, and will kill great store of Trouts with much pleasure: As for the May-Flie, you shall have them alwayes playing at the River side, especially against Raine. The Oake-Flie is to bee had on the butt of an Oake, or an Ash, from the begin­ning of May to the end of August: it is a brownish Flie, and stands alwayes with his head towards the root of the tree, very easie to be found: The small black Flie is to be had on every Hawthorn Bush, after the buds be come forth: Your Grasse-hopper, which is green, is to be had in any Medow of Grasse in June or July: with these Flies, you must Angle with such a Rod as you Angle with the ground Bait; the Line must not be so long as the Rod: with drawing your flie, as you finde [Page 7] convenient in your Angling. When you come to deep waters that stand somewhat still, make your Line some two yards long, or thereabout, and dop your Flie be­hinde a a Bush, which Angling I have had good sport at; we call it doping.

A Lord lately sent to me at Sun going down, to pro­vide him a good dish of Trouts against the next mor­ning by six of the Clock: I went to the door to see how the wains of the Aire were like to prove, and returned answer, that I doubted not but to be provided (God willing) at my time appointed. I went presently to the River, and it proved very dark; I drew out a Line of three silkes and three hairs twisted for the uppermost part, and a Line of two silks and two hairs twisted for the lowermost part, with a good large hook: I baited my hook with two Lob-worms, the four ends hanging as meet as I could ghesse them in the dark: I fell to Angle; it proved very dark, that I had good sport, Ang­ling with the Lob-worms, as I doe with the Flie, at the top of the water; you shall heare the Fish rise at the top of the water, then you must loose a slack Line down to the bottome, as nigh as you can ghesse, then hold a straight Line; feeling the Fish bite, give time, there is no doubt of losing the Fish; for there is not one among twenty, but doth gorge the Bait: the least stroak you can strike to fasten the hook, makes the fish sure, and then you may take the fish up with your hands: The night began to alter and grew somewhat lighter; I took off the Lob-worms, and set to my Rod a white Palmer Flie, made of a large hook, I had sport for the time, till it grew lighter: then I put on my red Palmer, I had sport for the time, untill it grew very light; then I set on my black Palmer, had good sport, made up my dish of fish, put up my Ta [...]ies, [...] at my time appoin­ted for the service. For these [...] Flies, with the help [Page 8] of the Lob-worms, serve to Angle all the year long, ob­serving the times, as I have shewed in this nights work: a light Flie for darknes, the red Flie in medio, and a dark Flie for lightnesse: This is my experiment for this kind of Angling, which is the surest Angling of all, and kil­leth the greatest Fish: your Lines may be strong, but must be no longer then the Rod.

To take a Carp either in Pond or River, if you mean to have sport with some profit, you must take a peck of Ale-graines, and a good quantity of any bloud, and mix the bloud and graines together, and cast it in the places where you meane to Angle; this feed will gather the seale Fish together, as Carp, Tench, Roach, Dace, and Bream; the next morning be at your sport very early, plum your ground: you may Angle for the Carp with a strong Line; the Bait must be either a red knot­ted worm, or Paste: there is no doubt of sport.

To take Pearch. The Pearch feeds well, if you light where they be, and bites very free: My opinion is, (with some experience) to bait with Lob-worms, chopt in pieces over night; so come in the morning be­times, plum your ground, gage your line, bait your hook with a red knotted worme; but I hold a Menow better: put the hook in at the back of the Menow, betwixt the fish and the skin, that the Menow may swim up and down alive, being boyed up with a Cork or Quill, that the Menow may have liberty to swimme a foot off the the ground: there is no doubt of sport with profit.

I will shew, a little, my opinion of floating for scale Fish in the River or Pond: The feed brings the Fish to­gether, as the sheep to the Pen: There is nothing bet­ter in all your Anglings, for feed, then Bloud and Grains, I hold it better then Paste: then plumming your ground, Angling with fine Tackles, as single haire for [Page 9] halfe the Line next the hook, round and small plumed, according to your float: For the Bait, there is a small red worm, with a yellow tip on his taile, is very good; Brandlins, Gentles, Paste, or Cadice, which we call Cod-bait, they lye in a gravelly husk under stones in the River: these be the speciall Baits for these kinde of Fish.

One of my name was the best Trouler, for a Pike, in this Realme: he laid a wager, that he would take a Pike of four footlong, of Fish, within the space of one Moneth, with his Trouling-Rod; so he Trouled three weeks and odde dayes, and took many great Pikes, nigh the length, but did not reach the full length, till within the space of three dayes of the time; then he took one, and won the wager. The manner of his Trouling was, with a Hazell Rod of twelve foot long, with a Ring of Wyre in the the top of his Rod, for his Line to runne thorow: within two foot of the bottome of the Rod there was a hole made, for to put in a winde, to turne with a barrell, to gather up his Line, and loose at his pleasure; this was his manner of Trouling: But I will pawn my credit, that I will shew a way, either in Maior, Pond, or River, that shall take more Pikes than any Trouler with his Rod: And thus it is. First, take forked stick, a Line of twelve yards long wound upon it, at the upper end, leave about a yard, either to tye a bunch of Sags, or a Bladder, to Boy up the Fish, and to carry it from the ground: the Bait must be a live Fish, either Dace, or Gudgin, or Roach, or a small Trout: the forked stick must have a slit in the one side of the fork to put in the Line, that you may set your live Fish to swimme at a gage, that when the Pike taketh the Bait, he may have the full liberty of the Line for his feed.

You may turne these loose, either in Pond or River: in the Pond with the winde all day long, the more the better: at night set some small weight, as may stay the Boy, as a Ship lyeth at Anchor, till the Fish taketh. For the River, you must turne all loose with the streame; two or three be sufficient to shew pleasure, gaged at such a depth as they will go currant downe the River; there is no doubt of sport, if there be Pikes: for the hooks, they must be doubled hooks, the shanks should be some­what shorter then ordinary: my reason is, the shorter the hook is of the shank, it will hurt the live Fish the lesse, and must be armed with small wyre well soft­ned; but I hold a hook armed with twisted silk to be better, for it will hurt the live Fish least.

If you arm your hook with wyre, the neeld must be made with a small hook at the one end thereof. If you arme with silke, the neeld must be made with an eye: then must you take one of those Baits alive (which you can get) and with one of your neelds enter within a strawes breadth of the Gill of the Fish, so put the neeld betwixt the skin and the Fish; then pull the neeld out at the hindmost finne, and draw the arming thorow the Fish, untill the hook come to lye close to the Fishes bodie: But I hold for those that be armed with wyre to take off the hook, and put the neeld in the hindmost sin and so to come forth at the Gill; then put on the hook drawn close to the body, 'twill hurt the live Fsh the less, so knit the arming with the live Fish to the Line; then put off either in Maior or Pond, with the winde, in the River with the stream: The more you put off in Maior or Pond, you are like to have the more pleasure: For the River I have shewed you before.

There is a time when Pikes goe a Frogging Ditch­es, and in the River to Sun them, as in May, June and [Page 11] July, there is a speedy way to take them, and not to misse scarce one in twenty.

You must take a Line of six or eight foot long, arm a large hook, of the largest size that is made; arm it to your Line, lead the shank of your hook very handsom, that it may be of such a weight as you may guide the hook at your pleasure: you may strike the Pike, you see, with the bare hook where you please: this Line and hook doth far exceed snaring.

The principall sport to take a Pike, is to take a Goose or Gander, or Duck: take one of the Pike Lines I have shewed you before: tye the Line under the left wing, and over the right wing, about the body, as a man wea­reth his Belt: turne the Goose off into a Pond, where Pikes are, there is no doubt of sport, with great plea­sure, betwixt the Goose and the Pike: It is the greatest sport and pleasure that a noble Gentleman in Shropshire doth give his friends entertainment with.

The way to make the best paste is, Take a reasonable quantity of fresh Butter, as much fresh sheeps Suet, a rea­sonable quantity of the strongest Cheese you can get, with the soft of an old stale white loafe; beat all this in a Morter till it come to perfect paste; put as much on your hook as a green pease.

There are many wayes to take Eeles: I will shew you a good way to take a dish of Eeles. When you stay a night or two Angling, take four or five Lines, such as be laid for Pikes, of fourteen or fifteen yards long, and at every two yards make a noose, to hang a hook armed either to double thred, or silk twist; for it is better then wyre: Bait your Hooks with Millors-thumbs, Loaches, Menowes, or Gudgins: tye to every noose a Line bai­ted: these Lines must be laid crosse the River in the dee­pest places, either with stones, or pegged, so the Line lie [Page 12] in the bottome of the river, there is no doubt of taking a dish of Eeles; you must have a small neeld with an eye, to bait your hooks.

Now to shew how to make Flies: learn to make two Flies, and make all: that is, the Palmer ribbed with sil­ver or gold, and the May-flie: these are the ground of all Flies.

We will begin to make the Palmer Flie: You must arme your Line on the inside of the hook; take your Scisers, and cut so much of the brown of the Mallards feather, as in your owne reason shall make the wings, then lay the outmost part of the feather next the hook, and the point of the feather towards the shanke of the hook, then whip it three or four times about the hook with the same silk you armed the hook: then make your silk fast: then you must take the hackle of the neck of a Cock or Capon, or a Plovers top, which is the best, take off the one side of the feather, then you must take the hackle silk, or cruell, gold or silver thred; make all these fast at the bent of the hook, then you must begin with Cruell, and Silver, or Gold, and work it up to the wings, every bout shifting your fingers, and making a stop, then the gold will fall right, then make fast: then worke up the hackle to the same place, then make the hackle fast: then you must take the hook betwixt your finger and thumb, in the left hand, with a neeld or pin, part the wings in two: then with the arming silk, as you have fastned all hitherto, whip about as it falleth crosse be­twixt the wings, then with your thumb you must turne the point of the feather towards the bent of the hook, then work three or four times about the shank, so fa­sten, then view the proportion.

For the other Flies: If you make the grounds of Hogs-wooll, sandy, black, or white; or the wooll of a [Page 13] Bear, or of a two year old red Bullock: you must work al these grounds upon a waxed silk, then you must arm and set on the wings, as I have shewed before: For the May-flie, you work the body with some of these grounds, which is very good, ribbed with a black hair; you may work the body with Cruels, imitating the Colour, or with Silver, with suiting the wings. For the Oak-flie, you must make him with Orange-tauny and black, for the body, and the brown of the Mallards feather for the wings. If you do after my directions, they will kill fish, observing the times fitting, and follow my former Di­rections.

If any worthy or honest Angler cannot hit of these my Directions, let him come to me, he shall read and I will work, he shall see all things done according to my foresaid Directions: So I conclude for the Flie, having shewed you my true Experiments, with the Rod, I will set all labouring sports aside:

And now I am waiting on my Lord with a great Dish of Trouts, who meeting with company, commanded me to turne Scullion, and dresse a Dinner of the Trouts wee had taken: whereupon I gave my Lord this Bill of fare, which I did furnish his Table with, according as it was furnished with flesh. Trouts in broth, which is restora­tive: Trouts broyled, cut and filled with sweet Herbes chopt: Trouts calvored hot with Antchovaes sauce: Trouts boyled; out of which Kettle I make three Dishes; the one for a Soused Dish, another for a Stew'd Dish, the third for a hot Dish: the Sauce is Butter, Vinegar, beaten Cinamon, with the juyce of a Lemmon, beaten very well together, that the Sauce is white and thick, or else it is no Sauce for a great mans Table: Trouts fryed, which must be done, and not put into the Pan, untill the Suet boyle very high, and kept with stirring all the time [Page 14] they are frying, being flowr'd first. Trouts stew'd: Trouts close, boyled with the calvored Trouts, all in one Ket­tle and the same liquor: Trouts butter'd with Egs: Trouts roasted: Trouts baked: these are for the first course, before the Salt.

And these are for the latter course. Trouts calvored cold: Trouts flat cold: Baked Trouts: Trouts maril­led, that will eat perfect and sweet three moneths in the heat of Summer: if I did say, for the whole year about, I would make it good.

For the dressing of four or five of the Dishes, I will shew you how I did perform them.

First, I will shew you for the boyling and calvoring, that serves for hot and cold, for first and latter course.

First, you must draw out the Intrails of the fish, cut­ting the fish two or three times in the back; lay them in a Tray or Platter, put some Vinegar upon them; you shall see the fish turn sanguine, if they be new, presently: you must put so much water in the Kettle as you thinke will cover them, with a pint of Vinegar, a handfull of Salt, some Rosemary and Thyme and sweet Marjoram tyed in a bunch: then you must make this liquor boyle with a fierce fire made of wood: when the liquor hath boyled very well, put in your fish by one and one, keep­ing your liquor alwayes boyling, untill you have put all in: having provided a cover for your Kettle, so put on the cover: you must have a paire of Bellowes to blow up the fire with speed, that the liquor may boyle up to the top of the Kettle; so the fierce boiling will make the Fish to calvor: provided, the fish be new killed: you may let them boile nigh a quarter of an hour; when they are cold, you may put them in a Tray or earthen Pan, untill you have occasion to use them: be sure they lie covered.

For your stewed Trouts, you must cut them on the side, as for broiling: there are divers wayes of stewing; the English hath one way, the French hath another way, the Italian hath another way: I may speak this; for I have been admitted into the Kitchins, to furnish men of most Nations, when they have been in England.

We will begin with the English: He broyleth first upon a Charcoale fire: the first thing that you must have a care of is, when your Grid-iron is hot you must coole it with ruff Suet, then the skin of your Fish will not break, with care of turning them: when they are nigh broyled, take them off the Grid-iron; set on a Cha­fing-dish of coals in a Stew-pan, or Dish; put in a good quantity of fresh Butter, so much Vinegar as will give the relish, a penny-worth of beaten Cinamon; then put in your broyled fish, and let them stew, about halfe an houre will be sufficient, being turned: adorn your Dish with Sippets, take the fish out of the stew-pan, lay them for the service, be sure to squease a Lemmon on them: I will warrant them good victuall.

The Italian he stewes upon a Chafing-dish of coals, with white-Wine, Cloves, and Mace, Nutmegs sliced, a little Ginger: you must understand when this fish is stewed, the same liquor that the fish is stewed in, must be beaten with some Butter and the juyce of a Lemmon, be­fore it is dish'd for the service. The French doe add to this a slice or two of Bacon.

I will shew you the way to marrionate a Trout or o­ther fish, that will keep a quarter of a yeare in Sum­mer, which is the Italians rarest Dish for fresh fish, and will eat perfect and sweet.

You must take out the Intrailes as you doe of other fish, and cut them a-crosse the sides, as you do to broyle, washed clean, dried with a cloth, lay themupon a Tray [Page 16] or board, sprinkle a little salt on them, and flowre them as to frie them, so take your Frying-pan with so much Suet, when it is melted, as the Fish may lye to the mid-side in the liquor, and so fry them; and every time you turn them, flower them againe, untill you finde the fish fryed sufficient: when you think the fish is fryed, take it out of the Pan, and lay it upon some thing, that the liquor may draine out of it; when the fish is cold, you may reare it an end.

You must have a close Vessell to keep this fish and li­quor in, that no winde comes in, according to the quan­tity you make triall of.

For the Liquor. First, you must take halfe Claret-Wine, the other halfe Vinegar, two or three Bay-leaves, so much Saffron as a Nut tyed in a cloth, with some Cloves and large Mace, some Nutmeg sliced; boile all these together very well; when the liquor is cold, and the fish cold, put the fish and liquor into the close Ves­sell, with three or four Lemmons sliced among the fish; make all cl [...]se that no winde can get into the Vessell; after eight or ten days you may begin to eat of this fish; the Sauce must [...]e some of the same liquor, with some of a sliced Lemmon.

To dresse a Pike.

When the Pike cometh into the Kitchin, kill it; then take a handfull of Salt, with water, and rub the fish ve­ry well to take the slime off, draw out the Intrailes; wash the Pike cleane, put a handfull of Salt in the Pikes Belly; then take so much water, with a pinte of Vine­gar: if the Pike be any thing large, you must put in at least three handfull of Salt, with a bunch of Rosemary, Thyme, and sweet Marjoram, and two or three green [Page 17] Onyons; boyle your liquor very well with a high fire made of wood; then put in your Pike, cover your Kettle, with your Bellows keep your Kettle boiling verie high for the space of halfe an houre or thereabouts: a Pike asketh great boiling: for the Sauce, it is sweet Butter well beaten with some of the top of the same liquor, with two or three Antchovaes, the skin taken off, and the bones taken out, a little Vinegar, so garnish your Dish: when your Pike is Dished, take the juyce of a Lemmon and put on the top of the fish: there is no doubt but it is good victuall.

I could set downe as many wayes to dress Eeles, as would furnish a Lords Table: but I will relate but one.

Take off the skinne whole, till you come within two inches of the taile, beginning at the head: take out the Intrailes, wash the Eele cleane, drie it with a cloth, scotch it all along both the sides; take some Pepper and Salt, mixe them together, rub the Eele well with the Pepper, and Salt; draw the skinne on againe whole; tye the skinne about the head with a little thred lapped round, broyled on a Charcoale fire, let your Grid-iron be hot, rub your Grid iron with some ruffe Suet; the skinne will not burne; this is good; but take the skin off, and stew the Eele betwixt two Di­shes, on a Chafing-dish of Coals, with sweet Butter, Vi­negar, and beaten Cinnamon, they will be better.

The boyling of a Carp is the very same way as I have shewed for the Trout, the scales on: no better Sauce can be made then the Antchovaes Sauce. The high boyling is the way for all fresh-water Fish: I have served seven times seven years, to see the experiment.

If there be any Gentleman that liveth adjoyning to a River side, where Trouts are; I will shew the way to bring them to feed, that he may see them at his pleasure; [Page 18] and to bring store to the place. Gather great Garden-Wormes, the quantity of a pinte, or a quart, chop them in pieces, and throw them where you intend to have your pleasure; with feeding often, there is no doubt of their comming; they will come as Sheep to the Pen: you must begin to feed with peeces of worms, by hand, by one and one, untill you see them eat; then you may feed with Liver or Lights, so your de­sire will be effected. And thus I conclude this short Treatise.

FINIS.

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