IT Lyes to the North of Boeotia extending North West and South East about 120 miles; Its Breadth, at the broadest place not above 30. It was taken from the Venetians in the year 1471. The soil is very fertile, affording all sorts of Graine, Wine, and Oyle, as likewise Flesh and Fowl; the Sea abounding with Fish. Since the Turks have had possession of it, most of the Greeks are Fled from the Villages, and Townes; So as the inland places are mostly supplyed by Al­baneses, who are the Shepherds, and serve the Turks at their Farmes. Formerly here were two Citys, and 500. Townes and Villages; Now there is but one, which can be called a City, which is the ancient Chalcis and now hath the name of the Island; by the Turks it is called Egriboz. It stands on a point of Land, having the Sea two Thirds about it. Betwixt it and the Maine is a small Island, with a strong Castle. From the Maine to the small Island is a bridge built up­on six good Arches, and thence to the Maine [Page 2]Castle is a draw-bridge about 30 yards Long. The Maine Castle is two miles in compass, for­tified with six very large Towers, or Rondells; The walls are high and thick with a dry ditch to the Land, which is almost filled up with rub­bish. To the South of the Castle is a new Platt-Forme with severall very large Gunns, which carry stone Shot of about 18 inches diameter. When I was there in the year 1676. a Renegado was taken; He was a Greek born on the Island of Candy; & turned Turk when the Vizier was at the Siege of Candy; afterwards he marryed at Scio, and lived very well; but upon some discontent he made his escape from Scio, and got to the Privateers of Malta, with whom he lived some years; & landing on this Island, he with some others were surpriz­ed, and taken. His companions were condemned to the Gallys, but his sentence was to be shott away, out of one of these great Gunns, which was accordingly effected.

None but Turks and Jews live within the Ca­stle, where are very spacious houses, and four which deserve the name of Seraglios; One for the Basha, at the right hand coming into the Castle from the Port; One for his Lievetenant or Ki­ahja; a Third belonging to Ibrahim Aga's Son (of whose Father we will speak anon;) and the Fourth, to Muzlee Aga; Which are very richly set out with carved work and painting. At the [Page 3]latter I was very often entertained upon the fol­lowing account. Muzlee Aga was taken a Slave in the year 1660, & sold at Legorne, where he conti­nued several years, and served as a Porter about the Streets, paying his Master dayly what he got. He won the favour of M^r. William Mico (an English Merchant) who besides his due, would often give him some small matter, & recommend­ed him to others of his friends. Muzlee Aga con­fiding in M^r Mico, imparts the circumstances of his present condition to him, telling him he had good freinds, who would redeem him, and withall desired M^r. Mico to use his interest with his Patron, to be moderate in exacting his Ran­som, giving him a Letter, to be sent to his friends at Negro Ponte, but without his Patron's know­ledge. M^r. Mico pursuant to his humble Ad­dress, did obtaine his ransom on easy terms. Soon after orders came from Muzlee Aga's freinds to buy his ransom for five hundred pie­ces of Eight, which they would pay at Smyrna. Which was short by two hundred of what was agreed for. Upon Muzlee Aga's obligation M^r. Mico frees him, and sends him to Smyrna to M^r. Richard Langly; in whose house he tarried, un­till the remainder of the mony was sent him, which he paid, and went to his friends. I then lived at Smyrna with Mr. Langley; And now being at Negro Ponte sitting in the Coffee [Page 4]house, one morning, I observed him to look ve­ry often on me, and rising from his place he came to me, asking me what Country man I was, from whence I came, and whether I was going. I told him that I was an English man, come from Patrass, and was going to Constanti­nople; Then, says he, you are the Man I took you for, and I thank God, that I have an oppor­tunity to requite the kindnesses, that I have re­ceived from your Nation. He would often have me to eat with him. In the year 1679. I was here again, coming from Athens I was robb'd by some Albaneses. Muzlee Aga gets me passage on a Lundra (built in form like a Galley, more for burthen, and sayling, than rowing) for Scio, send­ing aboard 6 henns, 10 oakes, (an oak is about two pound eight ounces English) of white Bisket, 10 oakes of Wine, a Jarr of Olives, and a Jarr of Pettmesh, recommending me to the Reys (or Ma­ster) saying, I recommend this man to you, when you see him, you see me, what you do to him, you do for me, and I will answer it, be it good or ill.

Notwithstanding their fine houses in the Ca­stle, the Basha has a very large house to the NW^t. of the Castle, near the Gally Haven. In the Ca­stle are two Mosques; the one was a Church de­dicated to S^t. Mark. There are severall Wells, but most of the water which serves to drink is brought in with Jarrs. About a furlong from [Page 5]the Castle, is the New Town very well built (after the Turkish manner) with a large Bazare or Market-place. Here are two Mosques, and se­veral Greek Churches. The Christians here, are thrice the Number of the Turks, and Jews. The Jesuites have also a small Chappel in their house; Their care is to look after the Slaves, when the Gallys are there. Between the Castle and the Town is their Burying place, set out with many fine peeces of Marble, most of which are brought from the ruins of Athens. The Harbour is very secure against any wind, it may be said to be a Port for above two miles, the main land be­ing so near and the ground good ankor hold. It is secured from an Enemy by the Castle, which has above twenty good Gunns planted this way. Upon the whole Island, there is but one place more, which may be called a Town, which is Castel Rosso, by the Turks called Kisil Hisar. It was formerly called Caristus, (as the Greeks still call it) standing in a deep Bay, at the SE^t. of the Island. The Castle stands on a high and steep hill, above a mile from the Sea, having a large plain, which stretcheth towards the SW^t. But affords little be­sides Mulberry trees, whereof there are store. The Town is built stragling upon two Mountains Most of the houses are very mean, being made of red earth, dryed in the Sun. The Castle is to the East­ward standing very advantageously to defend it [Page 6]self against an Enemy. The Bay is open to the South Winds. Vessels which come from Canea, Malvasia, Napoli, Athens, or other parts, that way, and bound for Constantinople, do usually put in here to inquire for news of Privateers. For from the Mountains, to the North of the Castle, in a clear day may be seen the high Land of Scio; and no Vessel can pass the Streight of Andros, but what is seen from hence. Small Vessels use to come here for shelter against the Privateers, but have been carryed away by them in the night; to prevent which one Ibrahim Aga, at his own charge, built a Fort of an Octagon figure with two Teer of Guns, 16 Guns in each Teer. After he had finished it, an order came from the Grand Signior to have him Strangled. He had some Private E­nemy who gave the Grand Signior to understand, that he had some bad thoughts, in building this Fort. His Estate was all confiscated; But through the intercession of great freinds it was most part recovered for the use of his Son, who lived at Ne­gro Ponte.

To the W^t. of this Place, is a large Bay called Porto Buffolo, which is able to contain many thousand ships. A Greek Priest told me that Xerxes had here above 1500 saile of ships, and other Vessels of warr. Close by the water side, to the Eastward, are a great many marble Pillars; All ships that come to lade Velania (i. e. dryed Acorns) [Page 7]carry some away. Two miles to the North of the Port are a great many ruins more, and seve­ral foundations of walls.

On a Mountain more Northerly is a great wall, above three miles about, and close by it is a Vil­lage called Cupa. The ruined place they told me was called Amatos. To the North are several good Ports, and there the Inhabitants live more secure than to the South. They reckon to be upon the whole Island not above 60000 soules, of which not above 10000 Turks, who most live under the command of the Castles at Negro Ponte, and Castel Rosso. Here is abundance of silks made, most of which is carryed to Constantinople, towards payment of their tribute, and Decimos. The Grand Signor's Revenue from this great Island, is about 100000 Dollars. As to the Tides motion at the Bridg, I will not trouble the Reader with the several opinions, that men have about it; only that it has been observed by several others, as well as my self, that sometimes it will pass contrary at the one side to the other, and this commonly on a Southerly wind. The next Island we come to in rank to the East is

This keeps its name, being called by the Turks Endros. The Inhabitants are all Greeks, having a [Page 8]good large Town to the NE^t. with no other walls, but those of their houses, which join together. At the end of the lanes are Gates, which every night are shut, to keep out the Privateers. In the Mountains are several small Villages, which are built so convenient as they can see an Enemy, long before he comes; so they have time to hide themselves, and the best of their goods, in places made by their Industry in the Rocks. Upon the whole Island there are not above 3000 Inhabitants, They have a great many Mulberry trees, and some years make above 10000 pound of Silk. They agree at Constantinople for about 10000 Dollars yearly, tho it stands them in above 12000: besides what the Privateers steal from them. Corn and Wine are here very plentifull, but their main stock is raised from Silk, and Cat­tle. with the latter, and other provisions they supply Tine. There are several good Harbours for small Vessels, but only one for ships, which is to the SE^t.

And by the Turks Stendill, lyes to the SE^t. of Andros, being, about 70 miles in compass, and the highest land of any of the Islands in the Archi­pelago. It is under the Venetian Government and withstood the Turks all the warrs; notwith­standing [Page 9]they landed their Army several times. In the year 1658. the Captain Basha came to a Port to the N^h. called La Colebitre, when in the night he landed 6000 men, hoping to surprize them; But the vigilant Islanders soon fled from their habitations, and betook themselves to the Castle, surrounding the hill, under the great Gunns. The Proveditore dispatcht away a Fe­lucca to acquaint the Captain General at Argen­tiero; and the Turks finding they could not take the Castle, destroyed the Country, burnt the houses, and carryed away about 10 slaves. The Castle stands on a high rock on the top of the Mountain. It is much higher than any other part of the Island, so as it may be discerned at both sides of the Island. Upon any occasion of re­joycing, Fires were made upon the top of the Castle, which have been seen at the Island of Scio. The Inhabitants are most Greeks, but these the greatest part are Roman Catholicks, who have here a Bishop. His Palace is at a place cal­led Campos, to the NW^t. of the Castle, distant from it about 3 miles. There are above thirty Villages upon this Island, and above 20000 souls. Those of the Greek Religion are to the Eastward end of the Island, having many pleasant Villages; though seated among Rocks. Tine hath but one Port, which is secure for shipping. It lyes in the strait of Andros, called Palermo. But the Road, [Page 10]where the ships usually come to unload, is called S^t. Niccolo, about 6 miles South from the Castle to the East is S^t. Zuanni, a small Port for Boats. To the North is another called La Cullebithra. This Island has ever been a great Eye-sore to the Turks. In the late Warr of Candia, several Bri­gantines were mann'd out of this place; which did continually torment the Turks in all their Quarters. A famous Privateer, called Georgio Maria, was a terror to all the sea-Towns about the Archipelago; He was of Corsica, of a good Family. He came into the service of the Venetians with a small Briganteen, called the Lepetto (or little Fox) his success was so great, that he built at Bagnio a place for slaves made square, to the East of the City on the hill, in which was an account of up­wards 4000 that he had brought out of Turky into slavery, of which he gave the tenth to the Generall. From a small Vessel he came to com­mand a squadron of three ships and Eleven Bri­ganteens. I will not give you an account at large of his several Victories, if I should, it would swell my Narrative to too great a Vo­lume. I will therefore only give you a Relation of his Death. In the year 1667 Georgio Maria had been very succesful against the Turks, carrying a­way whole Towns at a time, so as complaint was carryed from all parts to Constantinople, where his name was in every sea-faring-mans mouth. [Page 11]The Captain Basha had particular orders to search for him, and being at Scio, advice was brought him, that Georgio Maria with his little Armado was at the Islands in the Bay of Edremitt. The Person, who brought the news, had a Gratuity order'd him; and immediatly all things were or­der'd for departure, but the Basha only, and the man that brought the news did know for what place they were going. There was in Port at Scio 36 Gallys, and six ships of Tripoli. The Captain Basha sent orders to the ships, to be ready to sayle with his Gallys. There being lit­tle wind the Gallys towed the ships, till they were past the Island of Scio, and drawing neare the Island Metelino, with a small gale, they sayled close by Molives. The Sentinells on the Islands made fires to give notice to Georgio Maria, and soon came themselves with the news, that the Turkish fleet was coming towards those Islands. Georgio Maria easily believed it, and in a little time provided himself, notwithstanding he was before getting ready to carine his ship. With the help of his Briganteens he gets his ships out to the North of the Islands, ordering the Briganteens to shift for themselves; taking his last farewell of them. The Fight was very sharp above 6 hours. Georgio Maria was kill'd, and his body thrown over board, (as he had desired his friends to do) that it might not come into the hands of the Turks, [Page 12]his ship was taken, another was sunk, and the third made its escape into the Bay of Smyrna, and so to Tine. Of the Turks were killed and wound­ed above two thousand, of which in the Tripoly ships above 300. In the ship where Georgio Ma­ria was, (of 200 men) not above 20 were taken a­live, and those most of them wounded. After this Victory the Captain Basha went to Constanti­nople, towing up the ship in great Triumph at his Gallys Stern, as he past the Serraglio point. No man since Scanderbeigh has been so great a plague to the Turks. His loss was generally lamented by the Venetians, but especially by those of this Island, whom he very much inriched. He was made a Knight of S^t. Mark, for the good service he had done the Venetians against the Turks. The Inhabitants of Tine are better to pass than any o­ther of the Islanders, paying only their tenths to the Venetians. They make great quantitys of Silk and Wine, but have not corn nor wood to subsist a month, being supplyed from other Islands, and parts of the Maine, close by them. Since the peace between the Venetians and Turks, they have consented to pay to the Captain Basha a present of five hundred Dollars yearly, which was anciently a custom. Here is a Noble Venetian Governour, who hath the title of Proveditore, and judges in all civil matters; but Appeals are al­lowed of for any business that exceeds a hundred [Page 13]Ducats, and then the suit may be removed to Venice: All criminal causes are judged by the In­quisitor, who resides at Suda, an Island in a Bay near Candia. In the year 1670 I came hi­ther from Negro Ponte, Ill^mo. Signior Dominico Diedo was Proveditore, who lived in very great state. I had the honour to dine with him several times, being introduced by Padre Emanuel a Je­suite, and Captain Beneditto Neste a Legorness. The former I had often seen at the Jesuites Con­vent, and at the English Ambassadors house at Galatta of Constantinople. He was here in great Esteem, being a learned Scholar, a great Travel­ler, and an Experienced Physician; he had an eminent interest, as well in Turky, as in Chri­stendom: having an Universal correspondence in most places of Europe, and Asia. He would en­tertaine all Strangers of what Nation, or Religion soever, and gave me so good an account, of my own Country, as few of my own Countrymen a­broad have been able to give me the like. He never would discourse of Religion, nor give his opinion to any, but those who desired it. The Proveditore has his Palace in the Castle, very pleasantly seated; above it is the Rock and Ca­stle called S^t. Helens, which commands the lower Castle. To this Fort you go up by steps cut out of the Rock. There is no water but what is in cisterns, or brought in upon Asses backs. Here [Page 14]is a Bay to the W^t. of S^t. Niccolo called La Sciogna, where are the Foundations of a very large Temple which was dedicated to Neptune.

Keeps its name, lying to the SE^t. of Tine, about 12 miles distant, being near 40 miles about. It has but one Town bearing the name of the Island, which is at the NW^t. part, without any Fortifi­cation. It is a large Town, having many Greek Churches, and one Latine Church, which serves when any Privateers come; for here are very few other than of the Greek Religion. Most of the Inhabitants are Privateers, who serve with the Legorneses and Malteses, leaving their women to their own discretion, and the Civility of stran­gers. The chief product of the Islands is Wine, Corne, and Fruit. The Venetians usually in time of peace come with their ships, and provide themselves with wine. But the greatest of their profit is from Privateers. The women are here very Beautiful, and want not for husbands. Those, who go to sea, are the younger sort of their men, and when they have well stock't themselves with gaine, come and spend it here. This Island is very near the Road from Constantinople, and Egypt, and seldom is it free from Privateers. Great complaint has been made to the Port, and [Page 15]every year the Captain Basha did threaten them; but the crafty old men (whom they call their Vec­chiardi) use to meet the Basha at Scio, in a sad condition, complayning that they must leave the Island in case the Grand Signior did not allow them a Castle and Garrison; pretending they could not command in their own houses, while the Privateers were there: and representing their condition in a most deplorable manner, for se­veral years they prevented the Captain Basha from coming to Visit them, injoying their time in the best manner they could. In the year 1680 in the month of September, one Anzolo Maria, takes a Saik, which came from Alexandria, very richly loaden, which Saik he carrys to Micone, where he divided the prize amongst his Companions, letting the Reys (or Master who was a Greek of Metelino) have his freedom to depart. The Reys pretended he would go for Venice, and to have passage thither, he would pass to Tine, telling Anzolo Maria that he had no mony to defray his expence, and so desired his charity. Anzolo Ma­ria gave him 10 Dollars, with which he depart­ed for Tine, where he found a Boat ready to saile for Scio. Upon which he imbarques, and arrived there the next morning. Here he findes the Captain Basha ready to go for Constantinople; to him he runs, giving him an account of the loss he had sustained from Anzolo Maria, whom he left [Page 16]but two days before at Micone. No sooner had the Captain Basha notice, but immediatly he gives the signe for departure. About midnight he sailes from Scio, and the next day about noon came before Micone. The weather being rainy and thick, he was not seen by the Miconiotes, till he was almost in the Haven; But comes into the Harbour to the Southward of the Town, and immediatly landed 2000 Levents (Soldiers of the Gallies) to take possession of all the Boates and other Vessels, that were in the Harbour be­fore the Town. While Anzolo Maria was at din­ner with his friends, news was brought him, that the Captain Basha was arrived at the back side of the Town, and had landed his Levents; upon which he immediatly went to a Point of land where was a small fisher boat, in which he and another man put to Sea, and notwithstanding the Seas run very high, they passed over to Delos, in sight of all the Gallys; the wind being so strong as none of the Gallys could get out to pur­sue him, and most thought it impossible he could escape drowning.

We leave him to his Fate, and come back to Micone, where the Scene is strangely alter'd since morning, when all had their best attir's on, singing and dancing in every house. Now they had all unstript themselves, seeking places to hide their fine clothes, and husbands, whose singing [Page 17]was turned into weeping and wailing. The Vec­chiardi were sent for, to whom the Captain Basha said, Bring me Anzolo Maria immediatly, or I will hang you up at the Gally-yard. The Captain Ba­sha's name was Kaplan Basha, he was a man of great Resolution, and subject to Paslion. The Vecchiardi summon'd all the inhabitants, ordering the Priests to excommunicate all those who should conceal Anzolo Maria, or any of his companions, and not bring them out before the Captain Basha. Ten of his intimate companions were found, and carryed aboard the Basha's Gallys; None of these knew of Anzolo Maria's escape, nor did va­lue their lives, to save his. Most of them were Venetians, and Sclavonians; the Basha ordered them to be put in Irons till next morning, and that night every house in the town was searched, not a Chest but what was emptied and the Vaults in the Churches open'd to look for Privateers, so as that night above two hundred men were clapt into Irons. The wife of Anzolo Maria, and her Mother, were put into the Custody of the Kiahja that night. Next morning the Captain Basha sent again for the Vecchiardi, threatning to hang them, if they did not produce Anzolo Maria. They told him that he was certainly got out of the Island in a small Boat, and without question must have perished in the Sea. Then he ordered the 10 men, which were Comrades of Anzolo Maria, [Page 18]to be brought before him. To the first he said; Confess if you know where your Captain is, and you shall have your liberty. To which he boldly ans­wered; That he knew not, and if he did know, he would sooner loose his life, than discover him. A­gain says the Basha, if you do not discover to me where he is, immediatly your head shall be separat­ed from your body. He answered boldly, I am in your power, you may do what you please with me, and if I might have my choice, I had rather dye than be your Slave. He was immediatly beheaded in the pre­sence of his Companions, thereby to terrifie them. A second came, to whom the Basha offer'd as to the first, but he was in the same tune with his companion. Then sayes the Basha, upon my word (taking his beard in his hand) if any one of you discover to me where Anzolo Maria is, you shall have your libertys, and mony to carry you out of the Country; But they all were of the first mans reso­lution. At first the Basha resolved to take away all their lives, but upon more mature consideration, he only condemned them to the Gallys. After these was brought a Chirurgion who had often cured Anzolo Maria of his wounds, he was laid down and thrash't on the Feet with small sticks 100 blows; then was brought to the Basha, who or­der'd the Executioner to be present, threatning him to have his head taken off, if he did not find out Anzolo Maria. The Chirurgion told him he [Page 19]had not seen him, in above three days, he was then laid down again, and received two hundred stripes on the Buttocks, two hundred on the Bel­ly, and being in a Swoon, he was carred away. Thus was he used for three days. All the flesh of his feet came off, his belly was much blister'd, and his Buttocks were like unto Carbonados. I saw him before he was perfectly cured, and from his mouth, and several of the Vecchiardi, I had this account. The wife of Anzolo Maria, and her Mother, to make them confess, were served as follows. They were stript and put into two pair of Greek breeches, which were drawn up above their knees, the upper part tyed above their breasts, and their hands tied up to a Post. Into each pair of breeches, was put a young Kittling, which were beaten with small sticks, which made them leap up and down about the Breeches, and exercize their claws upon the womens bodys. Thrice were they thus served. For a week did the Basha continue in this Island, and carryed away with him what riches he could find, (pre­tending they belonged to Anzolo Maria) with 100 young men that had been with the Priva­teers. He threatned the Vecchiardi, that if he heard, that they received Anzolo Maria, or suf­fered the Privateers to come upon the Island, he would hang every one of them, and make their [Page 18] [...] [Page 19] [...] [Page 20]Children Slaves. About a fortnight after the Basha's departure Anzolo Maria came with 6 Bri­gantines, ordering his wife to go over to Tine and to reside there; The Poor Greeks dare not pre­sume to oppose him, or any other Privateers; so miserable is the condition of these poor people.

To the West of Micone about 5 miles is the lit­tle Island Delles; the Italians call it Li delli in the plural number, including the Island Rhena with it.

Is a very small Island, not inhabited, yet are there abundance of Conies. In this Island are the ruins of the Temple of Apollo, whereof S^r. George Wheeler hath given a full account. The Ruins are carryed away by all ships who come to anchor there, so as part are in England, France, Holland, but most at Venice.

Is about 30 miles to the Southward of Micone, being above 80 miles about. Most part of it is very high land; yet it hath a great many pleasant, and fruitful plains. Here is no secure Port, so that they are free from the Plague of the Priva­teers. It is most inhabited by Romaniz'd Greeks. The Jesuits have here a very fine Church in the Town, with a large house. The cheif Town [Page 21]stand's to the N W^t. on a Point jetting into the Sea, to the W^t. of which is a small Island, where is a great Portal, an heap of Marble, being the ruins of a Temple dedicated to Bacchus, who they say was born here. Without the City is a Monaste­ry of Franciscan Fryers, who did belong to the Fryery of S. Catharina in Candy. Here is an Arch-Bishop, who lives very well, having a house in the Town, and another in the Country, about 10 miles to the Eastward. Several Gentlemen of the Family of the Genoveses live here, amongst whom are some Fieschi. The Jesuits have great posses­sions here, and thro' means of the French Ambas­sador, have got a command from the Grand Sig­nior, that none of his Officers shall molest them; they paying their Tribute yearly at Constantinople. This Island is called by the Italian Mariners Bacchus's Island, for the plenty of wine there, as well as for its being the place of his birth. A French Merchant bought 5000 Barrells of wine, while I was there, which cost him but half a Dol­lar per Barrel, which is about half a Crown English for 15 Gallons of good wine; Provision of all sorts is very plentifull; Partridges and other fowls are here in abundance; and they live the best of any of the Islanders next to those of Tine and Scio. Yet are they but few in number, there not being upon the whole Island above five thousand inhabitants. [Page 22]

To the W^t. of Nicsia, about 10 miles is the Island of

It is about 50 miles in compass, lying in length most North and South. Here are two good Harbours; that to the North is the Port for Nic­sia, where is a pretty well built Town, which hath the best Church of any place in all these Islands, built all of Marble after the Model of S^t. Sophia of Constantinople. (as those who have not seen the latter tell you.) They give you a pleasant story, viz. The Master workman that built S^t. Sophia, had a Servant that was of Paros, whose industry had brought him to that perfe­ction in his art, as that he was resolved to shew his skill in his own Country. When he had finisht the Church he invited his Master to view it, upon which his Master takes a Voyage from Constantinople, and having well survey'd the Building, he finds a fault in the maine. Upon which, the man casts himself down from the top and broke his neck. His tomb they shew you at the entrance of the Church. Much like this, is the story of him, that built the high steeple at Bruges, in Flanders. When it was finished, one told the master workman that it was not upright, whereupon he threw himself down from the top of the steeple: (a pretty way to be talked off) [Page 23]But let us return to Paros. Here are very large Quarries of most delicate white marble. Here were all the stones cut, which built the Temple of Apollo, and other costly buildings on Delles. They tell you that the Temple of Diana was built with the marble of this place. Here the priva­teers come not so often to molest them, as at Micone; yet fare they alike with other Islanders, for the Turks spare none, and will have preten­tions on all, whether the Privateers come or no; by which means they hinder the inhabitants here from being too rich. They are of the Greek Re­ligion, having several Churches, and Monasteries.

Had formerly a large Town upon it, which the Inhabitants abandoned, by reason of great taxes that were laid upon them from the the Turks. But they are again returned and have now a small Town.

Lyes to the South of Nicsia about 30 miles, be­ing in compass between 50 and 60. Formerly it was very well inhabited, having two Towns and ten Villages, but in the late Warr betwixt the Venetians and Turks, it is much dispeopled, having now but one Town and some small Villa­ges. The Ground is very good, and will bring [Page 24]forth any thing that is planted; But the Priva­teers are so continually plaguing them, that poor Souls, they have not sufficient to pay their tri­bute. The Port is very convenient, and secure against bad weather. To the South is a high Mountain, on which there is a Sentinell to give notice, if they see any ships coming from the North or South, and so they are soon out upon their backs.

Are three good Islands, but very thinly inha­bited, for they are in the way of the ships of Bar­bary, who not only take what the Island pro­duceth, but will also carry away their Children, saying they are Bastards of the Malteses and Le­gorneses.

Is a very pleasant Island, producing great quantities of Cyprus trees, with the loveliest O­ranges and Lemons of any part in the Archipe­lago. Here is a Fountain which hath a water that doth weigh near three Ounces in the Pound less than any water of the Islands about it. Here is but one Town inhabited by Greeks. Former­ly it was a Bishops See, but of late 'tis come un­der the Bishop of Rhodes, as is also Gira, Carchi, Lemonia and Simia.

Is a very large Island near 80 miles about, ly­ing to the West of the Bay of Halicarnassus. Though Rhodes exceeds it in bigness, this doth that as much in beauty; most part of it being low land, in comparison to the other Islands a­bout it. Here are woods of Cyprus trees, of a great many years standing, and the Turks are so pleased with them that they will not suffer them to be cut down. The Inhabitants are Turks, Greeks, and some Jews. There are several Villa­ges inhabited by the Greeks, and one large Town, with a strong Castle, neer the Haven which hath the name of the Island. A little above the Castle is a very large, and rich Seraglio for the Governour; close to which runs a small Rivulet, which is very clear, and not deep. Here are 20 very large Plane trees, that make a most dellicate shade, and being on a rising ground may be seen at a great distance. Here is one very large tree which the Turks call Kavak agatz, the body is above 30 foot about, spreading its boughs to a great di­stance, under the boughs are 12 very stately Marble pillars to support them; but it appears they were for a Temple, for part of a wall is yet remaining. The Turks make this their place for recreation in hot weather, there being several shops for Barbers, and where Coffee and Sher­bett [Page 26]is sold, The River head is within musket shot of these trees. At each side are many plea­sant gardens full of all sorts of delicious fruits, Oranges and Lemons are in great abun­dance, Lemons are sold for half a Dollar the thousand. All ships that go from Constantinople and those parts, bound to Egypt, or that come from Egypt and bound upwards, usually call in here, it being allmost the midd way between Rhodes and Scio. The Port is secured with a good Mote, which (to wonder) is kept in repair. No Christian is suffer'd to go into the Castle, so the Cadde hath his house without. Every night here is very good watch kept, and the Privateers dare not venture to come neer, for here are Gal­lys, or ships of Barbary almost continually. In some Maps I find this Island called Lango; from whence they derive the word I know not; for as the Turks call it Stancoi, the Greeks do Stincos.

Lyes about 15 miles from the Asian shore, and 110 from the Island of Candia, being 120 miles in circumference. It was taken from the Christians in the year 1522. After a valiant, and Christian­like defence against Mahomet the great, it sur­render'd to Solyman the Magnificent, who could only brag that he had won the Town, for his loss of men was very great. The City hath the name [Page 27]of the Island, being seated in a Bay to the N E^t. part of the Island, having a most delightful Port with two strong Castles at the entrance, where for­merly stood that famous Colossus, between whose legs ships with a full saile might pass into the Haven. After the Turks became Masters of it, most of the Inhabitants made their Escape, some to Italy, others to Candia, leaving the Island al­most quite uninhabited. The Turks have since granted great privileges to those that will come and inhabit it, so that many Greeks are returned, and it is now very well peopled. The Basha hath the Revenues of the Island, and some other small Islands adjacent, towards the maintaining five Gallys. The Basha's name was Cochiuk Me­mett Ogle, he had a great love for his Slaves, not suffering any to abuse them. To the North of the Town he has built a large Bagno very como­dious for them, where is a very neat chappel with two Altars, one for the Roman Priests, the other for the Greek. Here are many Jews who live within the Castle, but the Greeks are all in the Suburbs. The Walls are in very bad repair.

Is a small Island which is in a Bay to the N W^t. of Rhodes, about 8 miles distant from the Asian shore, from which it was separated (as they say) by an Earth-quake. It hath but one Town upon [Page 28]the Island, and that but small. Their chief lively-hood is by diving for Spunges, of which they make great merchandize, supplying all parts in the Levant, from whence they are brought to most places in Europe. They will dive 15 fathom under water being brought up to this profession from their childhood, they reckon those the best of men, who can longest keep under water. I was a passenger in the Zante Friggat with Captain Robert Wilkinson, from Venice to Constantinople; thro' bad weather we sprung a leak, which we could not come to stop unless we landed most of our Goods. Being at anchor in the Port of Milo, and continually pumping, a Greek Priest told the Captain that he would undertake to gett a man that should stop the leak, tho it were at the keele of the ship; the Captain offer'd him fifty pieces of eight to get it done out of hand. Next morning the Priest brings one of the Islan­ders; he first took a good swig at the bottle, and by our directions he soon found out the hole, he ordered a piece of lead to be cut square, and daubed with oakham and tarr, which he nayled over the leak so as our ship was again very sound. He first put the nailes into the lead, then diving, by degrees drove them into the ship side. He was some times above a minute under water. When they hear of any Vessel's being cast away, the first fair weather, they go to the place, and [Page 29]agree with the Inhabitants, to whom they give the tenths of what they shall get and keep the rest. The Basha of Candia gave them 200 dol­lars for diving to get the Guns of the Theresia, a French ship blown up at Standia.

Lyes almost midd-way between Candia and Rhodes. It was formerly called Carpathos, be­ing above 80 miles in circumference. There is no secure harbour for Gallys, or small Vessels; But for ships there is a good Port to the Eastward, where the Town stands on a high hill, having a ruined Castle. The whole Island is Mountains, on which are several Greek Monasterys, one of which stands to the North, dedicated to S^t. Atha­nasius; which maintaines above 40 Callojeroes. The inhabitants are very poor, and seldom free from the visits of the Privateers. Any ships which put in here may have all provision very cheap; Partridges at half a dollar a hundred alive. They say that the City of Rhodes was car­ried from this Island, that is the Marble: Here the Mountains are most Marble, and to those that come from the South, they make a glorious shew, the Sun shining upon them. Not a quarter of the Island is inhabited; nor are there above three thousand Inhabitants. [Page 30]To the South West part of this is the Island of

Tho 'tis but a small Island, yet it abounds in all things necessary for life. The middle of the Island is almost a plain, well planted with Olive trees, and Vine-yards; with all sorts of Fruits. To the West are five small Islands, amongst which is very good riding for ships. These Islanders have obtained a great favour from the Port, by means of a Favorite of Solyman the Magnificent, who obtained a Command, that none of the tribute-Masters should molest them, they shew­ing a discharge, for 1000 dollars yearly to be paid at Constantinople for all taxes. Yet are they but poor, (or at least pretend so) Here is a Mo­nastery of Candiotes, who came from the City of Settia, when that City was destroyed; They live here very well, and have the enjoyment of their possessions on the Island of Candia, paying only the tenths to the Turks.

Is 80 miles in circumference, being very mountanous. It hath but one Town, and that but a very small one. The Port is large, being to the North, yet not of the best anchor hold, being full of small Rocks. The Turks coming to re­ceive tribute from these people, but they having [Page 31]notice retire into the Mountains, leaving no­thing of worth behind them. Some years since they have agreed to give 1000 dollars per ann.

Are good Islands, but they are continually plagued with the Privateers; so as all that their land doth produce, will but serve to pay their taxes; if any can be said to have the prehemi­nence, it is S^t. Erino, here being several Mer­chants, who have some power amongst the Malte­ses, and drive a smart trade; buying up prize goods: they carry them, and sell them at Scala­nova, and other places in Asia, bringing for re­turns cotton, which is here wrought into Dimi­tys, and which are the best in all the Archipelago; great quantitys goe yearly to Candia, Zante, and other places. These Merchants also agree at Constantinople for the tribute of the whole Island. Most strangers are given to understand, the whole Island is enchaunted; such terrifying noi­ses are somtimes heard, and the ships moorings to the shoare being often losed. A Dutch ship be­ing in the Venetians service came to anchor in the Bay, making a harsor fast to one of the Rocks, and having understood how other Vessels were used to be served, the Master had two men a shoar to watch least any should cut his harsor. [Page 32]In the night there came a Catt to the water side, one of the Dutch-men flings a stone at the Catt. hit it, and imagined that it was dead. Imme­diatly came down certain over-grown Catts, and so plagued the Dutch-men, that they called to their ship for help, upon which the Boat came a shoar, to carry the man aboard; but before they could come, one of the men was almost dead. Many such things the Venetian marriners give an account of, having had the Cables very often cut close to the ship. Which yet may be done in the night by a man swimming from the shoar. This Island has suffered very much by Earthquakes, a great part being swallowed up. One part of it was blown up into the air, which destroyed a whole Town with the Inhabitants.

Is a large Island, being between 80 and 90 miles in circumference. The Turks call it Digir­menlick or Mill Island; Milo also in the Vulgar Greek signifies a Mill. From hence yearly, great quantitys of mill-stones are carryed to Constanti­nople. The land is indifferent good for corn, and oyl, but the wine is very ordinary. The land is not very high, only to the South are two Mountains, which to those who come from Ceri­go, seem like the tops of two Sugar loaves. It has a very faire Harbour, large, and secure against [Page 33]all winds. Here Privateers do usually come to make up their Fleets, and it is most commonly their Rendezvous, at their first coming into the Archipelago. There is but one Town, which stands in a very fine plaine, being very well built with good stone. The Capuchins have a Church, and Convent; The Privateers continually bring them some presents, and most of the Islanders give them a great deal of Respect. The Greeks have several Monasteries, one of which stands on a Mountain to the South. From whence in a clear day the Island of Candia may be discern'd. The Privateers had made this place their chief Ren­dezvous for several years, to almost the ruine of the Island; but of late have not so much frequent­ed it. The women are equal in beauty with any in the Archipelago, and pretend to exceed others in breeding; most of them speaking Italian. The men are industrious, taking great pains to work their ground, it being worser soil here than in any of the Islands, occasioned from the Sulphurous na­ture of it. Here are several hot places for men to sweat, at the side of Hills, which in some places are so hot, as to rost an Egg, if put between the hol­low of some stones. All the whole Island is esteem­ed to have fire under it, which is thought to consume the stones, which are very like to Honey­combs, being all hollow. The Inhabitants are not above 5000. Very seldom do the Turks come [Page 34]to disturb them, for they take care to send their Taxes to Scio to be ready against the Captain Ba­sha comes thither. About 5 miles to the North of this Island is a small Island called

Which lyes in length N^o. and S^o. having ano­ther Island to the East called Polina, tho most known by the name of Isola Bruciata, or burnt Island, between these Islands is a very good road for ships, and Gallys. The Venetian Armada did much frequent this place, it lying so convenient that they might go to Sea with any wind, in case an Enemy should come to attacque them; for they have a custom never to be in any Haven, or Port where they may be penn'd in; unless it be under some of their Castles, or in some of their own Islands. On both these Islands there is a continual watch (when the Armada is there) which make signs with smoak for every saile which they see; the ships which come from Turky, they will examine them. In the year 1664 I was a passenger aboard the little Hunter, Roger Hutson of Plymouth Master, bound from Smirna to Le­gorne. We being off of the Island of Angentiero, a Felucca came to informe themselves of News from Turky, we acquainted them of what we knew and departed. But the wind changed Westerly, so our Master put back and he came to [Page 35]anchor at the North of Millo at a place called Por­to Polumbo, about 4 miles from the Venetian Fleet. So soon as we came to anchor, a boat came to command us to come to the General. The Ma­ster was a stranger to these Seas, and did not care to venture out of his ship, but at last I perswaded him, and we went in our own Boat with two men. When we came to the Gally, the General order'd the Master and me to come into the Gally, keep­ing us at a distance, till by our Pass-Port (or Pa­tento) he saw the places, from whence we came, were free from contagious diseases; then order'd us to be carryed to the Secretary, to give an ac­count of what we had heard at Smirna concerning the Ottoman Forces. When we had done there, we desired leave to fill some barrells of water, and get some other provision that we wanted. A man was order'd to go with us, to see that we paid no more than was the price; which was a great favour. When we returned, the General desired the Ma­ster, that he would not saile without his Letters; which he promised should be ready next day be­fore noon; the Master assured him he would stay; so we returned to our ship. About break of day the wind being fair at E^t. and a fresh gale, our Ma­ster was very impatient to be going, seeing also a ship coming from the Eastward. All the perswa­sions I could use would not prevaile with him; but resolved he was to go, ordering his men to [Page 36]bring Cable to Capstern, and heave. I told him what might be the ill consequence of breaking his promise with a General, and that he would soon send after us; but he depended upon the nimble­ness of his Vessel, and question'd not but soon to be out of their reach. All things were in readiness, our anchor up, and we set saile. Soon did the wind abate, & the Sentinells giving notice to the General that our ship had loosed saile, immediat­ly two Gallys were dispatcht after us, they came soon up to us, and firing a Gun, the shot past betwixt our Mast. They commanded the Ma­ster to come with his Boat to the General, bidding us drop anchor. To see in what a condition the Master was in, would have gain'd compassion in any one; he could not speak a word of Italian, (to discourse with) so begged of me to go with him. Indeed I did not desire to be seen in the business, not knowing what might befall us; but go I did. They towed our boat at a Gally Stern and we soon came to the Generals Gally. By the way we resolved on an Excuse, after rowling a great many, I proposed to the Master that our safest way was to acquaint the General, that our design was not to go to Sea; but that seeing a ship com­ing from the Eastward we did not know what she might be; And we having Warr with Algier we were fearful, so weiged anchor to make a trip, and get under the Generals Stern. This thought [Page 37]of mine pleased the Master, and we concluded to answer in this note, when we should be exa­mined. When we came to the Generals Gally, we were order'd to come up; the General asked which was the Master; I shewed him the Ma­ster, he order'd him to be put in chains at the Prow of the Gally, being in a very great pas­sion, said that he would make an Example of him, and give an account of his base action to the English Consul at Venice. I let him breath out some of his passion, then spoke to the Com­pagno di Standardo, desiring him to acquaint the General with the true manner of our intent, which he did. Upon which the General calls for me, bidding me speak the truth. I told him our design was not to saile without his Excellencies Letters, but that we purposed to come with our ship under his Protection, whereupon the Ma­ster was brought off again, and we were well en­tertained till the General's Letters were finish't, and next day the wind prov'd very fair, we set saile. At my coming to Legorne the Master gives an account of this to his Merchant, who order'd him to present me with my Passage. This I hint, that all who travel by Sea or Land may learn to be cautious, and not slight Governors. The Island of Argentiero hath but one small Town, whose Inhabitants are most Privateers. When the Tribute Master comes, the men hide them­selves, [Page 38]leaving the Women and Children to their mercy. More to the North of Milo are the Islands

Called anciently Seriphus and Siphnus, lying most E^t. and W^t. one of the other; the former hath a good harbour for ships. The people work much upon Cotton, making Dimeties and Sca­mities. The latter is much the pleasanter Island, having only a small Port for Boats; so as the Pri­vateers do not come often to molest them. To the North of this Port, is the Town on a high hill, from whence they see several Islands at a great distance, and often are diverted with Sea fights: the houses standing so near the bank over the Sea. Both these agree yearly for their Taxes at Con­stantinople, and one who buys it, is absolute Master for that year. One year some French Mer­chants bought the Tribute for 1500 dollars, each Island, which they gather'd from the Inhabitants, by working Cotton's, and were considerable gain­ers. To the North of Serfu is

It lyes at the entrance into the Bay of Athens, being indifferent low land, but not very fruitfull. Here are very good purging Waters, and hot Baths. The Inhabitants are very industrious, the men in Fishing, the women at their Needles. Here they say the Island habit was invented, and hath been [Page] [Page]

[Page]

[Page] [Page 39]a habit above 1000 years, but few of them know the true original; as I was informed by Monsieur Giraud, consul at Athens; which was thus. A Prince in Athens had a Daughter, who was guilty of a great crime, for which she was condemn'd to be banished; and to make her the more despised, it was ordered, that the sleeves of her upper Gar­ment should be cut off to her shoulders, with her smock sleeves hanging down to her hands, her Pettycoats cut short to her knees, with her smock at full length to her ancles, her hair hanging down behind. Being sent in this manner to this Island, the Inhabitants enquired who she was, and be­ing told that she was a Princess, that came to bath in the waters for her healths sake, her dress pleased the common people, and now it continues their habit in most of the Islands, only their heads are better drest. They have their hair plated, in­termixed with Ribbon, which is put round the hinder part of their heads, with a fine muzlin veil carelessly thrown over. Their bodys have no sleeves to them, but the better sort will have great wings hang down behind, richly embroi­der'd. That which serves for a pettycoat comes to their knees being plaited very thick. I have seen one, which was but an ordinary one that had above 40 pikes of dimity, which is about 30 yards; some have above 60 pikes; and so weighty are their clothes which they wear, that [Page 40]they cannot be nimble in dancing. To prevent the trouble of pulling up their coats, they are open before, and fastned with clasps, and eyes. Their Smocks hang down to their ancles, but they are very narrow, with sleeves fastned at the wrist, and a loose sleeve over them, which comes over their hands, being broad. Their Stockings are most of red cloth, hanging in plaits; some with the clocks embroider'd. Their slippers are sol'd with cork, the upper part covered with red plush. The men have several sorts of habits; But the better sort have a long Vest, strait to their body, doubled over before, reaching down to their ancles, girt about the loins, and the sleeves button'd at the wrist; Over which is another Vest hanging loose, with broad sleeves of black cloth, resembling the Turks, to shew their supe­riority over their brother Christians. Their heads are shaved; they wear most of them a red cap; but some a black.

Lyes to the North of Termia, not above 10 miles; but it alters so much in the temperature of the climate, as it could not be more, were it so many degrees distant. The land is all very high, and seems at a distance like an Egg. The Turks call it Yamurta Adasi. (i. e. Egg Island) There is a very good Port to secure any Fleet, but [Page 41]it has a very narrow Entrance. At each side is a small Chappel, that to the West are the Ruins of a Temple; and not far from hence is the Founda­tion of an old City, which a Priest told me was formerly called Juli. The Town is five miles from the Port. I came here in the year 1670 in the Noahs Ark of Genoua, in which there were several Passengers, who were not acquainted with the place, and very desirous to go up to the Town. The Guide would tell them it was close by the Port, but before they came to the Town they had travelled so long as to understand Greek; for when they asked where the Town was, the guide would answer them inne konda Ephende, it is hard by S^r, tho' they were five miles from it, the way being all unevenly rocky, which made the Genouese wish they had not put on their new shoes and clothes. The Inhabitants are a very healthy people. No Oranges, Lemons, nor Olives will grow here. to the South of the Town and higher stand several wind-mills, which are very often blown down, not withstanding they are built with very good Stone and Morter. This Island and Tine, are very seldom without much wind. The chief product of the Island, is Corn, Wine, and Velania. The wine is very small in com­parison to that of other Islands. Here I saw a woman, that went to the fields to gather Velania, big with child, and another in her arms; In the [Page 42]field she was delivered, and brought both her children well home.

It lyes about 12 miles from Tine, South West: (some Mapps name it Suda.) The Town is at the N E^t point, standing on a hill, having a fine Bay before it, and three small Islands where ships come to anchor. The Inhabitants are Greeks, but most of the Church of Rome. The Capucins have a Church and Monastery. They are free from the Privateers, upon the score of the Capu­cins. Most of their incom is from gardening and manuring the ground. From hence Tine is supply'd with a great store of fruit. It abounds with Muskmelons and Watermelons. Wine and Corn they have enough for their own use.

Is a fair and large Island, lying almost in the middle, betwixt the Asian shoare, and Monte Santo, having several good Ports and Havens a­bout it; but the Principal Port is called Mudro, which lyes to the South East, above which stands a City with an indifferent good Castle, where is a Garison of Turks; to this part of the Island Monte Santo casts a shaddow in the Summer time at the Sun's going down. The Country is most level ground, affording great quantity of Pasture land, and here are the best sheep of any place here [Page] [Page] [Page]

[Page] [Page 43]about. To the N E^t. is a place called the Sa­line, Salt panns, close to which is gathered the Terra Sigillata, of which the Turks make water­pots more esteemed than so much China; with us, it is used for medicines. Before the late warre with the Venetians, the Island was very well peopled both by Turks and Greeks, having a­bove 50 Towns and Villages; but there are now not above 20 Villages, and those very poorly in­habited. The Venetians took the Island in the year 1662, and ruin'd most places of strength, carrying away the Garrison of Turks. The Earth of this Island, or terra Sigillata, is the chief thing which they boast of, telling many fabulous stories about it; of which several have writ at large, so that I shall omit a repetition. This I­sland by the Inhabitants is now called Stalimene.

Lyes to the East of Lemnos about 12 miles from the Entrance into the Hellespont or Dardanelli. The Turks call it Bosh Adasi the Barren Island. It is most rocky, and to the N^o. is a high round Mountain under which is the main Castle, stand­ing close to the Sea, being almost a square. That part towards the Sea has high walls, and two Roundells. Even with the Water is a battery of 20 very great Guns. On the South point of the Port is a Castle built on a rising ground, in which [Page 44]are about 10 Guns. This Castle commands the Harbour, more than the great Castle, and can bat­ter the Town and Castle. About a furlong to the South-West stands the Town, most inhabited by Greeks; in it there are several stately Foun­tains, built with white Marble brought from the Ruins of Troy. This Island was most valiantly won from the Turks, by the Venetian Fleet, un­der the conduct of General Marco Bembo, and af­terwards betray'd to the Turks, by one of the Fa­mily of Loridanno, who was Governor; since which none of that name have had any command in the Repubick's service; nor dare he ever return to his own Country.

Are three small Islands: the first lyes about 30 miles from the mouth of the River Nester, Samandrachi opposite to the River Marizza, and Imbro about 10 miles to the West of the entrance into the Hellespont, which by the continual com­ing of Privateers are almost quite forsaken, not having above two or three Villages in each.

Is the largest Island on the Asian shoar. For­merly it was called Lesbos, and was estem'd the only store-house for corn for the City of Constanti­nople, now it is very little inhabited. Here is plenty of Deere, and several other Game. They [Page 45]have a sort of horses less than any I have seen else­where, but strong and swift. The Country af­fords store of Pasture, & all sorts of Provisior are very plentifull: From hence we have considerable quantity of Oysters brought to Smyrna. The wine is none of the best. The City under the same name is to the Eastward, having a delicate Port before it. There are the ruins of a large Arsenal. To the N E^t. of the Town stands a ve­ry strong Castle, called Mullives, built on a Rock which is a Peninsula, 'tis very well fortified, ac­cording to the ancient way. The walls are very high, they have 4 Towers, a dry ditch, with ano­ther low wall about it, and a draw-bridge, there is but that one way to enter into the Castle. Here is continually a good Garrison kept. At the Arsenal is another Fort, which is level with the water, where are several very large Guns. On the N W^t, part of the Island is another strong Castle called Petra, which hath a very good Port. There is a considerable Town, most inhabited by Greeks, who trade over to the main, now called Cos-dogg but formerly the Mountains of Ida; for the Turks who inhabit those Mountains, are such great rob­bers, that none dare live amongst them, and to travel that way, is almost as dangerous as to be amongst the Banditi in Calabria. Here is another good Harbour for ships, called Siguri, at the W^t. end of the Island; but no Town or Village nearer [Page 46]to it than Petra. There are several other Ports, and Creeks, which are often haunted by the Pri­vateers. To the N E^t. are several Islands which are called the Spalmadori, which signifies Cari­ners; for here often the Privateers do come to Carine, and are in the way to meet Vessels that are bound to Constantinople. The Inhabitants of Metelino are not above 10000 Turks and 20000 Greeks.

Is not inferiour to the best Island in the Archi­pelago; tho' it is not so large as Negro Ponte, it is much the richer, and the Inhabitants injoy greater privileges than any Greeks in the Grand Signiors Dominions; and more liberty cannot be in any part, than what they injoy. In the Summer time every evening the marine is full with all sorts of people with musick, singing, and dancing, and none offer to molest them. At their Festivals, they are very open in their Worship. The chief City has the name of the Island, being very well built after the manner of the Genouese. It is above two miles in Circumference. To the North stands a very strong Castle, and both are seated to the Eastward close to the Sea side. Formerly there was a good Mole which shelter'd ships from the N E^t. winds; and to the Southward another point runs out, upon which stood a light-house. [Page 47]They are both now gon to ruine, and the Harbour is dangerous in Stormy weather. At each side of the City are abundance of pleasant gardens, a­bounding with all sorts of fruit. Coming in from Sea these Gardens and Summer-houses do give a most delightsome prospect; the houses being for the most part very well built, with their windows red and green. The Inhabitants are most Greeks, of which many are of the Church of Rome. Here are several good Churches which remaine since the time the Genoueses had possession of the Island; as that of the Jesuites, the Dominicans, and the Capucines; the two former are in the City, the latter is at the North Westend, where they have a large Convent, with pleasant gardens. In the time of Holy days they carry their processions in the streets without any molestation, but it must be after Sun set. The same have I seen in Smyr­na on Good Friday by the Greeks, and also at Ga­latta of Constantinople. The Vizier Cupri Ogle at his return from Candy, tarried here several days, and lodg'd in the house of one Signior Dominico Mascardi, which joyns to the Capucines Convent; one day asking what bell it was that he heard, one told him it was some bells of Mules; sayes the Vi­zier to him that made that answer, and you are an Asse for endeavouring to make me believe so; This is some bell to call you to prayers and be not ashamed to enjoy the freedom which is given you. He was [Page 48]several times in the garden, and commended their way of living. Before the Vizier came, order was given by the Elders to forbid the womens walking the Streets as their custom was, fearing least some souldiers should abuse them, and so occasion a dis­order. The Vizier having been two or three days in town, and not finding the divertisement he expe­cted from what he had been told, he asked what was the reason, it was told him that fearing some disturbance might be, orders were given to for­bid the women to walk the streets. The Vizier made answer; That seeing they had such privi­ledges, they should enjoy them while he was there, o­therwise he would recall the Liberty they had. Next morning the streets were full with all sorts, and in the Evening by the Sea-side singing and danc­ing most part of the nights. The Turks hold the Sciotes for a soft sort of People calling them, Pras­sinos which signifies green: A Basha saying, it was as impossible to see a wise Sciote, as to see a green horse. All the time that the Vizier was here, there wàs not the least disorder amongst the Officers, but all were in dovere; and notwithstanding here were upwards of fifty thousand strangers in town and in the Fleet, the price of provision was not advanced. The Town lyes about 12 miles from the Asian shore almost opposite to a very strong Castle, called Chisme; From whence they are sup­ply'd with most of their Provision; Scio not af­fording [Page 49]sufficient for the Inhabitants, and those passengers which are continually here. All Ves­sels from Constantinople bound for the South usual­ly call in here, both going and coming. There are above 30 Villages upon the Island, which are well inhabited most by Greeks; those who be­long to the Mastick Villages, to the South-ward, have their hair long. The time for gathering the Mastick, is in August and September. The Custo­mer goes out to the Villages, where they receive him with musick, and feasting. What Mastick is gathered, it is all delivered to the Customer, for the Grand Signiors use, and he soon dispatches it up to Constantinople to serve in the Serraglio, for se­veral uses, What remains of the Grand Signiors store, the Customer sells to merchants. It is very dangerous for the Inhabitants, to keep any Ma­stick by them. In Turky they use it to chew and some mixe it in their bread. The Turks call it Sackes, and the Island has the same name. The Italians call it Mastice, and Masticare is to chew. When any company of women meet in Turky, some Mastick is brought them on a server, and each taking a little, they are chew­ing, and spitting most of the time. It is co­mical to see the old women roale it about their gumms; the effects which they finde by it are, that it carrys away the flegme, cleanses and prevents the aking of the teeth; and causes a sweet breath. [Page 50]Here is a continual watch kept round the Island; when they see any ships or other Vessels, in the day time they make a smoak, and in the night shew lights; the last Tower sends a man to ac­quaint the Customer, what Vessels are on the Coast. If any passengers land in any part of the Island, the Sentinells accompany them to the Cu­stomer, who inquires whence they came, and what business they have there; this is to pre­vent spies. Betwixt this Island and the main are several small Islands called Spalmadori, which are much frequented with Privateers as those before Metelino; they lye about 12 miles to the North from the City. In the year 1666 a Malta ship Commanded by the Chevalier Tincourt was at anchor between those Islands, a fisher man passing by sees the ship; and coming to Scio finds the Captain Basha with about 40 Gallys. And going immediatly to him asked for Mustalook (a gift upon good tydings) for he had news to tell him. The Basha hearing the news order'd the boat-man to have 10 dollars, and put to Sea, it being very calm. The Sentinells from the Hills came down, and acquainted Monsieur Tincourt, that the Turkish Fleet was rowing toward the Islands, so he with his boats towed the ship out to the East­ward, before the Gallys came up to him, and had time to provide himself to receive them. A de­sperate Fight was maintain'd for several hours, [Page 51]and not a breath of wind stirring; so as the ship lay to their mercy, and was boarded by them se­veral times, but were forc't off again leaving many men dead behind them. In the afternoon a fresh gale of wind began, at which those in the ship took courage, and Forc't the Basha to retire under the Guns of the Castles of Scio; Firing several broad sides into the Town. The Captain Basha sent to the Capucins to have them to go off in a Boat, and perswade the Captain to forbear firing into the Town. The Capucins went aboard, carrying some fresh provision as a present, desir­ing Monsieur Tincourt to forbear, for that most da­mage was to the poor Christians. So he retir'd, and went to Micone to repair his ship. He was a French man born, not above 24 years of age; he built and fitted out the ship at his own charge, stiling himself the Champion of Christ. His Father or Uncle dyed in sight against the Turks, while he was but a child, to revenge whose blood, he took this resolution; not above two months after, his ship was cast away on the Island of Scyros, where he perished; and of two hundred and fifty men not above 5 escaped, which caused a great grief to all who had heard of his Valour. He had not been in the Archipelago above two months, before he Fought with the Turkish fleet; and intended to have past the Dardanelli (as a merchant ship) so to do what mischief he could, [Page 52]to the City of Constantinople, by firing against it and then to make his escape out of the Castles or perish in the Action. I lived in Smyrna when this fight was, and had the particular relation from one of the Capucines. The profit which the Turks receive from Scio, is double what any other Island in the Archipelago payes; Nor are there any subjects in the Turks Dominions, (of Greeks) that are richer. Their Habit is different from all other Islanders. The women have their Coats to their ancles, their bodys short and thick wasted, their head dress with Linnen close to their ears, raised up behind, (not unlike the Doge of Venice his Cornet) in which their hair is laid. They esteem great Leggs, and little Feet, some to be in the fashion will have 4 or more pair of stirrop Stockens. Before their breasts hangs a bibb which reaches a little below their wast, un­der it they have their hands cover'd when they are abroad; when they dance a round dance they hold a pocket handkercheif in their hands, that they may not have their hands touch't. They have ear-rings, neck-laces, and braceletts of gold. The men wear strait body'd Jackets, with 4 broad skirts below the wast, strait kneed bree­ches, to button, or tye at the knees, shoes and stockens most according to the Genoueses; they have a broad lappet of Linnen fastned to the neck-band of their shirts, which hangs down be­hind [Page 53]over their backs. Their hair is cut short to their Ears, and generally they wear little red capps or broad brim'd hatts. But their Vecchi­ardi do wear long loose Garments over their Jackets and breeches.

Lyes to the North of Scio about 25 miles di­stant. It is in compass about 70 miles, having no Harbour for great shipping, and therefore unca­pable of any trade. The land is also very barren being most Mountainous, and rocky, so that they of Samos have a saying that when God made those Islands he order'd all the rubbish should be cast upon Icaria, which they have no great reason to say, for they have their share also of Moun­tains. The Inhabitants are generally very poor, as the Privateers cannot get any thing out of them; nor can the Turks bring them to pay any considerable Tribute. They have some wine, but none of the best; it being hard: but here are the best Winter grapes which I did ever see, they being round and red, growing between the rocks and in such dangerous places to come at, as that with much hazard they are gather'd. Sheep they have some, but Goats are the cheif of their Food. I have seen several of the Nicariotes in their Boats that row all naked, for which they give two reasons; one that with their coats they can­not [Page 54]be so active at the oar, the other that they wear out their clothes much; for every time that they tugg the oar they rise with their bodys, and fall back on the banks as is usual in the Gally's.

Lyes about 12 miles to the East of Nicaria, and not above 3 from the maine of Natolia, being a large Island, and the Seat of an Arch-Bishop, tho' of so mean an Estate, as it will hardly suffice to give him bread, when he has satisfied what is due to the Patriarck of Constantinople. There is no good Harbour for ships, yet the Privateers ve­ry often visit them, and carry away whatever they find. There is a Caddee Aga, and about twenty Turks more, who live upon the Greeks. Conti­nual watch is kept, to give notice if any Priva­teers do land, and then the Caddee and other Turks hide themselves up in the Mountains. But in the yeare 1676 Monsieur Crevillier landed a party of men, resolving to ruine the whole Island, he found out 4 of the Turks, whom he carried a­way with what else they found. The Greeks of the Island were made to pay for the ransom of the Turks; and since that time the Turks do not venture to live amongst them unless it be some who are Servants to the Tribute Master, yet have these power to exercise Lordship over the Greeks, and will not abate of the respect which [Page 55]is due to their Master. In matters of Justice, when the Caddee is not here, the Vecchiardi (El­ders of the Greeks) do judge and determine Cau­ses; but must be sure to take the Rights of the Cad­dee, which are sent him to Scala nova, and then he puts his seal to the Award of the Vecchiardi. In every Village there is one called the Proto, or Chief, who oversees and gathers in the Tenths of their Crop, giving an exact account to the Turks, and to ingratiate himself with them, he will be as severe with his fellow Christians, as the Turks can be. Notwithstanding the Moun­tains, which are many here, there is land enough to be manured to imploy 10000 men, which with good management, would be in few years little inferiour to Scio. There is nothing that can be planted, but the ground doth bring forth. Vines are generally more natural to this soile, than to any of the neighbouring Islands, and the wines more pleasant, but for want of conveni­ence to sell them, they plant no more than to suffice their own occasions. Here, and at Tene­dos, is the best Muscadine (next to that of Lu­xuri on Cefalonia,) that ever I drank. This they carry to Scio, Smyrna, and several other parts, which with Oynions, Garlik, and some earthen Ware is the chief of their Adventures abroad. The Venetians forced them formerly to pay year­ly 20000 dollars, but a great part of this was in [Page 56]Corne, Wine and Cattle, at a certain price; this was when they were better to pass than now, for then the Privateers durst not molest them. They were forc't (upon the peace made betwixt the Ve­netians & Turks) to pay their arrears to the Turks.

Although it be not half so big as Samos, has ad­vantages that make it far the better Island, which are many and good Ports. In the Candy Warr, the Venetian Armado, almost the whole Fleet, lay here to winter, so that from several o­ther Islands were brought provisions to supply them; in which time the Inhabitants had an ad­vantage of their neighbours and many got consi­derable Estates; but since that time, the Turk on the one hand, and the Privateers on the o­ther, have brought them so low that now they are as miserable as any. There are several small Villages and Monasterys. Upon this Island did S^t John the Divine write the Revelations (a Ma­nuscript of which they have) and here, if we may believe the Inhabitants, is to be seen the Pulpit in which he preach't, and the Font where he used to Baptize. Also here is a Mountain where is a deep Cave, in which they say Cynops the Magician lived in the time of S^t John; this Cave they believe to be haunted; and to try it, [Page 57]a man was let down by a cord to see what was in the Cave, but he was pull'd up almost dead.

Is a little to the South of Patmos, much of the same bigness, but far inferior to it as to the soil; nor is it so much inhabited, not having above one small town, and a few stragling Villages and Mo­nasterys. Here are the ruins of a large Castle on a hill, and about 20 very great marble pillars which are entire, and are too far from the Sea to be carryed away. They say it was a Temple built in honour of Diana, and was (after the preaching of S^t John) made a Church, & dedicated to the blessed Virgin. To the Eastward are a parcel of small Islands called Mandria. The mid­dlemost is the largest. It formerly was inhabited, but is now only a refuge for Privateers in time of bad weather.

Is to the North of Negro Ponte. 'Tis a large Island, with several very good harbours for smal­ler Vessels, and one for ships which is called St Georgio di Sciro; there is a large Town well peopled, with a small Castle to defend themselves from Privateers, who are a continual Plague to them. There are several Villages and Monasterys in it. When any Privateers come, the Inhabi­tants will capitulate with them, rather than have [Page 58]their Vines rooted up, which they threaten to do. No Turks live upon the Island. The duties which they yearly pay are carryed to Salonico.

Lyes near the Entrance of the Gulph of Volo, its soil is fruitfull. To the South is a large Port called Porto Palerma, where the Venetians very often come. The chief Town is to the North, having a strong Castle which held out against the Venetians a considerable time, but at last con­sented to pay yearly a certain summ of mony to have their own privileges, and not be forc't to keep a Garrison of Venetian Souldiers. Here are several considerable merchants, who trade for Cairo, and other parts. The chief product of the Island is wine which generally is the best in the Archipelago; since the peace with the Venetians, the Turks sent a Caddee; and an Aga, and would have put in a Garison, but by favour from the Port, they were called back, so as now they make Laws and are Judges amongst themselves. But the Grand Signors revenues must be yearly paid, which amounts to above 30000 dollars, that is, pole mony, and tenths, which is easy to what was pretended. Here are delicate fruits of all sorts, peaches the largest I ever saw, also the Winter grapes in very large bunches, some weighing 10 pounds.

Lyes to the North of Scopelo, it was formerly called Schiatus. Here is a very strong Castle on a rock, having a Draw-bridge and other necessarys for its defence. It withstood the Venetians a long time, but was at last forced to yeild, and pay a tribute both to them and the Turks. The Island is very Mountainous, not being so fruitful as Sco­pelo, nor so well inhabited. There are several o­ther Islands here, which lye almost at the en­trance into the Gulph of Salonico, they are very little inhabited, and of no great note.

Lyes between Andros and Scio, the greatest part of which, about 30 years ago was blown up, and the Inhabitants destroyed. I have heard several Merchants at Smyrna say, that there at Smyrna most of their plate and mony was turned blackish, when the Island was blown up. And many of the Stones were cast upon the Islands of Tine and Andros. A very small part of the Island is now remaining.

Is a small Island which lyes to the West of Scio, very poorely inhabited. It hath a safe Port. Its West side secured with a small Island lying be­fore it. At the entrance from the North there [Page 60]runs a ridg of rocks from the great Island almost halfe a mile into the Sea, being about 16 Foot under water. Upon these Rocks the ship Ply­mouth stuck fast, having aboard her the R^t. Hono­rable the Earl of Winchelsea, a true relation of which follows. In the year 1660 his Lordship imbarqued on the Plymouth, on an Embassy from His Majesty of Great Brittain to the Grand Sig­nior, and about the end of December arrived at Smyrna, where his Lordship tarryed till January the 6. When he imbarqued again for his Voyage to Canstantinople. So soon as his Lordship was aboard they set saile, with the wind at East, sail­ing towards the Castle, which is about three Leagues from Smyrna, it fell calme; then they came to anchor, and tarryed all night, having in their company the ship Smyrna-Factor, and a Ketch, the latter waited upon the man of Warr. Next morning being the 7^th the wind at S E^t 'twas a fine gale, they weighed anchor, the weather promising them a speedy passage, but the wind veering to the N E^t with a strong gale, they wea­thered Caraborun standing for the Island of Mete­lino; intending to spend the night under the Lee of that Island in smooth water, bringing their ship under a Maine-Course. All that night the wind increased every hour more and more, so that in the morning it was a most violent Storme, the Sea in a breach, the sky very black and thick, [Page 61]and the Sun lowring and red, which were the undoubted Indications of its continuance. The Spray of the Sea was so forcibly carried by the wind over the ship, that the Masts, yards and Decks were querned with the white salt. This extremity of weather made them think of some Port, to secure themselves. The Island of Ipsara lying about 8 Leagues distant S by W^t from Me­telino, it was supposed by the Master a safe place with this wind to spend the fury of the Storm in; so they put her before it, with fore-saile down, and main-saile in the brailes; but the wind soon blew away their fore-saile like paper, and in bringing another to the yard, it had the misfor­tune to be foule of the flook of the anchor, and soon became as unserviceable as the other. Be­ing thus deprived of their commanding sailes, they loosed their sprit-saile and set their maine­course. Steering in between the greater and les­ser Islands, the ship had swift way being shott within the Northermost point, and luffing too near the great Island, on a suddain she stuck fast on a Rock, which astonished them with a strange amazement; the poor ship knocked five several times to cleare her self from a total Wrack and ruine. They all began to despaire of her, and with cast up eyes and stretched out armes thought now of no other but their last and final Port. But in the midst of this horrid con­sternation [Page 62]and distress it pleased God, who was their best Pilot, to bring the ship off, and to all their appearances without the least damage: an escape so wonderful and miraculous (on the 8^th day of January) as it ought to be ever recorded to Admiration by all that were partakers in the danger, and an Anniversary thanksgiving be made to God for his Providence over and Prote­ction of them. When they were in this distress, they fired a Gun to give warning to the Smyrna-Factor, and Ketch, who thereupon stood away for Milo. The storme continued all that day, so that with two anchors down (the sheat anchor being one) they had much ado to secure the ship fast, the Storm continuing so very violent. The 10^th the wind abated, and the 14^th it veered a­bout to the S W^t, so they sailed towards the Dar­danelle, the 15^th they got to Tenedos about 8 in the morning, and about 3 in the afternoon, entred the old Castles. From the new Castles a boat came off, in which was a messenger to acquaint his Lordship, that the Vizier had sent orders that free passage should be granted his Lordship, and his attendance with the ship, without any hin­drance or molestation. From the old Castles came off a Boat in which were some Janizaries & Drug­germen (or Inter preters) belonging to S^t Tho. Bendish, that brought letters to his Lordship. On the 17^th (it being 3 Months since his Lord­ship [Page 63]imbarqued in England) they came to anchor neare the 7 Towers, till such time as S^t Tho. Bendish had notice: then weighed anchor, and stood for the Port. Some time before a Bostangee, one belonging to the Grand Signiors Garden, came aboard, pretending to be sent from the Bostangee Basha to know what ship it was of so great Equipage, and Burthen, also telling them that the Grand Signior was seated on the corner of the wall of the Serraglio. With a fresh gale of wind they had all their colours abroad, with all their Guns, and wastclothes out. Being al­most opposit to the Serraglio Point, the said Bu­stangee went aboard again, telling them that it was the Grand Signors pleasure that they should rejoyce with Guns, (which was his expression) upon which they fired six Guns and came to an anchor at Toppanna, when S^t Tho. Bendish came aboard to congratulate his Lordships arrival, his Lordship the next day (being the 18^th) was re­ceived ashore, and indeed with that great state and handsom Equipage, that no Ambassador from England, France, or Germany ever passed in with more honour or wonder of the Multitude. Where we will leave his Lordship and come back with the ship which tarryed some time at Constanti­nople, and in her return called in at Messina, Le­gorne, and several Ports of Spain, having under­gone many stormes at Sea, and at last arrived in [Page 64]safety in the River of Thames. At Wollwich she was hall'd into the dry Dock, and being search­ed, there was found a great piece of a rock in the bottom of her, so fast in, that it could not but with much difficultie be got out. It passed the keel of the ship, and was so close fixed in, that it stopt the water from coming in. This piece of Rock was carried to his Majestys Closet at Whitehall, where it is carefully preserved.

THere are 5 Islands which are not inhabited, nor have they at present any distinct name saving one which is the largest, known to the En­glish by the name of the Long Island, & by other Na­tions Isola d' Eglese; It is about 10 miles in length and not very broad. There are some ruins in it, which shew it was formerly inhabited, and the ruins of a large Temple is still to be seen. An­other Island there is in the Bay, close to the land near Vurlaw, which a Greek told me was held in great Veneration in former times, having had se­veral fair buildings; now nothing remains great or remarkable, but the Cave which is cut out of a firm Rock almost square, and supported with 4 pillars of the same Rock. To the Eastward is part of an Altar, & in the middle is a Well but the water is not fit to be drank it is so brackish. [Page 65]From the Island it is about a quarter of a mile to the maine, where formerly was a made-way in the Sea for people to pass over, being 30 Foot broad. This way is now almost consumed, yet I have past over it on horseback. This Island I judg must be the once famous Classomene. The other Islands are of no note.

THE Hellespont, called by the Turks Bogass Hisar, is the Southern-most strait between Europe and Asia; the two Capes or head lands are Cape Grego on the European, and Cape Janizary on the Asian shore, which are about two miles one from the other, having two new Castles, which stand low and opposite to each other, and were built after the great fight betwixt the Ve­netians and Turks, in the year 1656, close under the old Castles, These two Castles have no other name then the New Castles, and the Cape has the same name; although it be corrupted by our Sea­men, who call it Cape Janizary, taking the word Yenni bysar (new Castles) for Janizary (a Soldier) as also going into Smyrna they call Cape Giobernole for Cara Borun. From the new Castles to the old is about 20 miles. These latter are not a mile wide; formerly here were the Cities of [Page 66] Sestos and Abidos, and these are by the Italians called the Dardanelli, I believe from the ruins of a City formerly called Dardanum, not far distant. The Castles stand opposite to each other, having above 100 Guns in each, most of which lye level with the water, so as it is almost impossible any ship should pass upward, without leave. The Gunners there are expert Marksmen; I have seen tryall made of their skill. In the year 1670 the Captain Basha was there, when an empty Butt was cast into the Sea about a mile above the Castles which the Stream brought down, and it being come between them, in two shott it was sunk. When the Basha departed he was saluted with two shott, one past just at the Prow, the other un­der the Poop of his Gally, so near as the water spry'd into the Gally. Here is a continual tyde or current which runs downwards, to the South so strong as a Gally can hardly with a full stroak gain way against it, nor was it ever known that the Stream did run upwards. In the year 1665 I was a passenger in the Sampson (Captain Samuel Chamblet Commander) from Smyrna to Constan­tinople, the winds being contrary we lay at anchor without the new Castles from May till the be­ginning of August, for here in the Summer time the winds are most Northerly. Our chief Mate M^r Frith, was a very great Artist, and often would make tryalls about the current which runs down­wards; [Page 67]he found that some times the water re­turned upward about 3 fathom deep, when at the same time it run swift downwards above. This experiment he tryed several times, with one and the same effect. Past the Hellespont the Island of Marmora shews it self, being but small; it has its name from the quantity of Marble which is there. Several Slaves are employ'd to cut it out, and some old Gallys transport it to Constan­tinople for the building those stately Mosques, Bag­nos, and Palaces wherein it now flourishes. A­gainst the Gulph of Montania is the Island of Papa not inhabited. About 16 miles from Constanti­nople are 7 Islands which some call the Islands of Princepe, tho' one only hath that name which is the largest; to it the Grecian Emperors did use to banish their Sons, if guilty of any great fault, now only one is inhabited, called Chalcis which is to the N^o. of Princepe, there being a small Village and two Monasterys in it. Being so near to Constantinople I must give the Reader a short view of it. The scituation for pleasantness, and conveniencie, and the Port for largness and se­curity may sue for preeminence above all others. The River between Constantinople and Galata, is not broader then the Thames at London-bridge, but hath much deeper water, so that no bridg can be made over. The largest ships may have their heads ashore, and 18 fathom water at [Page 68]their stern. The Arsenal next to that at Venice is the best in Europe. The broadest street in Constantinople is not so broad as Lumbard street. Very few houses (if any) are above three stories high, they are built most with timber. Their shops & warehouses are most by the water side, to which all people flock in the day time, which makes it seem to be so populous. The Grand Signor's Serraglio is seated on the most East point of the City having a prospect up into the Bosphorus, 'tis surrounded with a high wall near two miles round, having upwards of 400 large Cypress trees regularly planted in it, with many fair Summer­houses without the wall close to the Sea side. The Turks call this City Stamboll, to signify, that it is abounding in all things; and indeed it is the best supplyed with Flesh, Fish, Fowl, Fruit and Corn of any great City in Europe. Many having given a large account of it already, I will forbear enlarging thereon. In the year 1665 a Quaker who lived in Dover, was perswaded to come to Constantinople to convert the Grand Signior; those who set him on the design, perswading him, that he should have the gift of Tongues: but he was disappointed in that, and all other his ex­pectations, and without seeing the Grand Signor, or Vizier, by the Right Honorable the Earl of Winchelsea's order, was shipt aboard the ship Sun, and sent for Legorn. I have since seen [Page] [Page] [Page]

[Page] [Page 69]him in Kent, he being now of another perswasion.

THE Island of Candia, which in old time (and now by the Turks) is called Crete, hath followed the other parts of the Empire of Greece, and is now subjected to the Tyranny of the Turks, after a Warr for above 27 years. In which time the Venetians (tho' in comparrison, as a flea in the beard of a Lyon, to the Ottoman Forces) did bravely, and with an unparallel'd Courage, defend the City of Candia to the last ex­tremity. After a close Siege for near 2 years continuance, the Vizier there in person, and with him the best of all the Ottoman Forces, they were forced to surrender, yet upon the most honorable termes, that they themselves could propose; car­rying away with them not only their Cannon, and all other amunition, but also the bells, which were in the Steeples, and whatever else they thought worth the Labour. The Vizier was so over-joyed, that the City was surrender'd to him, that he appointed several of the Turkish boats, to assist the Venetians, if they should have occasion of their help in carrying their goods to the ships. He was so observing of his word in the Peace. [Page 70]that he caused two Janizarys to be put to death for attempting to force their way into the City. All Europe has heard of this great Seige, how many thousand Bombs were cast into the City; How many Mines, and Fornellos were blown up; and how many bold assaults the Turks made. They had at last workt themselves so near the Walls that it was impossible for the besieged to make use of any of their great Guns. For no sooner could a man appear to level a Gun, but there was a shower of bullets and arrows, so that the Turks would often attempt to under­mine the Walls, and the Venetians did counter­mine them, and when they met under ground, they fought most desperately. The Venetians have an Engine which they call trombo di fuo [...], it is as long as a half Pike, the Staff bigger: At the end are two Irons, about two Foot long, in the form of a fork; In which is fastned a trunk made of Iron, (and some are of wood) in it are five charges, each firing severally at a certain time, and carry several bullets to do execution as far as a Pistol. They set fire to it at the fore part, and have a touch, to reach from one chamber to the other. Another Invention they had to fish up the Turks, when they attempted to under­mine their Walls. They had hooks made in the forme of a boats grapling, the points sharp, fastn'd to a rope and 4 or 5 foot of chain at the end; [Page 71]These hooks they often cast over the Walls, a­mongst the Turks, and seldom failed to bring up a Turke, some fastned by the clothes, o­thers by the body. I have heard some of the officers say, they have taken several in a night. For when the hook was fastned, they gave them not time to unhook themselves but had them soon over the Walls, and many a Turk have the common soldiers eaten. At the Greeks leaving Candia there happned a most sad accident; a new ship called La Fregatta Galliera, or the Gally Frigot, was pitcht upon for transporting most of the Principal of the Gentry, and the greatest part of the riches of the Citizens; there was also (besides what were mounted) 50 great brass Guns, the Passengers were between 250 and 300 besides 200 Mariners and upward. Being between a little Island called Ovo, and the Port of Cerigo, the ship open'd, and not a man was saved. The rest of the Fleet got well, some to Zante, others to Ceffalonia, Corfu and Venice, landing the Greeks as they had a fancy to the place which they came to, or as they found freinds. Thus they left their Estates to the Ene­my, and not above 5 or 6 Greeks remained, who being in years, and sickly withal, desir'd leave of the General, that they might tarry, and end their days there. In the Articles of peace it was concluded, that the Venetians should keep pos­session [Page 72]of three small Islets which are close to the Island of Candia, and have each a very strong Castle. The Turks did laugh at their proposals, saying we have the Henn, and the Chicken will follow of course, of these Isletts you shall have a further account hereafter. This Island had 20 Citys, and above 1000 Towns, Villages and large Monasterys, now there is not above 4 Citys, and 300 Towns and Villages. To give you an account of them I will begin with the eastern part. This was formerly a Province called Sittia; the head City had the same name, standing in a Bay, at the North East part of the Island, at the West side extending from the North, to the bot­tom of the Bay Southerly, above a mile in length. The Castle stood on a rising ground to the N W^t. of the Town, built of a course Marble stone. The Venetians finding the place was not Tenable, caused several mines to be made, by which they destroy'd the Castle and Town, and so went to Candia. By the ruins it may be seen the builders had no thoughts, so soon to have left them; most of the Walls are intire and some have lower rooms with beams, which are patcht up, and serve for store houses to put corn in, when any ship comes to lade. In the year 1680 I was here and load­ed a Sattee of Provence Captain Iseppe Bremon who belonged to Cassis about 10 miles from Marsellis. The Wheat was the Basha's own, which he sold [Page 73]at 3 Timins a Killoe, (i. e. about 14^d. the Bushel.) The Turk who came with me from Candia, was an ordinary Servant. But as we travelled the Road, and when we came hither he would do­mineer at a strange rate. Here are no Inhabi­tants nearer then 12 miles, at a small Village cal­led Alona, saving at a small house and Chappel, which is a Metoiki (or Chappel of ease to a Mona­stery up in the Mountains) about a quarter of a mile from the Sea. Amongst others the Greek Priests brought their tenths, to the Turks. They all desire to have a Seaman to measure their Corn rather then the Turks; for they will stir the corn about with their hands, and press it down; But the Master was content to take it with a just measure, and Favoured the poor Greeks what he could. At Alona resides the Basha's Lieutenant, who has 100 Spahees to guard the Coast from Pri­vateers; but more to gather in the tenths. The Greeks maintaine them, at their own charge. To the Eastward of Sittia on a point of land, is a Monastery dedicated to S^t Isidoro to which be­longs a great Revenue, it maintains about 40 Calo­jeros. There are several rich Lamps, and other ornaments of Silver and Gold. Here they shew you the Picture of the Blessed Virgin, which (they say) was brought by Angels from Stancoi, and was found in a cave of that Mountain. They have Lands on the Island of Rhodes, where they [Page 74]have a Metoiki and several Calojeroes, to gather in the cropps of corne, oyl and wine; the Turks allowing them to enjoy it, calling it Vacofa, or possessions for Gods use, yet they will receive their tenths from it. The Gomina or Overseer of this Monastery had made his Escape, taking with him above two thousand pieces of Eight, in ready mony and plate, but being pursued, he was taken at Scarpante an Island lying in the midd way, between Candia and Rhodes, & by the Basha's order put to death. To the South of A­lona about 10 miles is a very high Mountain cal­led by the Turks Basha Dogg, from it may be seen the Sea, to East, West, North and South. Here are the Ruins of a Castle called formerly Barozza, 'twas built by a Gentleman of that name. It is, square, about 60 Foot high, with a tarrazzo, and battlements on the top, each square is a­bout 40 foot. The Wall is very thick; the door about 10 foot from the ground, having a dry ditch about it. Of these there are several about the Island, as the old built Castles are in Ireland. For formerly the Candiotes, did use to Warr a­mongst themselves, but now all such quarrells are ended by their subjection to a common Master. The City of Girapetra is to the South of the Island, having no secure Port, but an open Road, where Vessels in the Summer time may be with security from the Weather, but not from Priva­teers; [Page 75]for while I was there, they carryed away a Saike which came from Alexandria. The Town is wall'd round, and hath a small Castle which lyes higher then the Town. Here is continually a Garrison of 200 Janizaries, besides there are several Turks, who are Merchants, so that in all they can raise 500 fighting men. There is about it a very fine plain full of Olive trees and some pleasant Gardens. Their houses are well built, of good stone, the rooms very lofty; but few houses above two storie high. In the year 1675, one Monsieur Crevellier, a famous Privateer, land­ed 500 men in the Bay of Spina Longa, travelling in the night, he came next morning, just at the dawning of the day, and found the Turks at their Sabbah namas morning prayer, so he made himself master of the Town, carryed away 200 slaves, nail­ing up the Guns which were in the Castle. The Turks which were at the South part of the Town, betook themselves to some small Vessels, for they had not the heart to return home, to fetch their armes. Monsieur Crevellier to retreat with this great prize, resolved to kill what horses he found, securing twenty for himself, & officers, to ride at the reare; This enter prize was effected in less then six hours after they enter'd the Town, for they did not tarry to ransack the houses much. After they were departed, about 300 men, Turks and Greeks were got together, and marched a [Page 76]mile or two out of town, and had not Crevellier kill'd the horses, he could never have got out of the Island. It is very strange that so many men could come with that secresy as not to be disco­vered, and that the hearts of those Turks should be so dull'd. Immediatly they dispatch't expres­ses to the City of Candia, Writing to the Basha that above 1500 Christians had landed, and car­ryed away 200 Prisoners, most of them men of the Garrison; the Basha asked the messenger, if the rest of the Inhabitants were a sleep, or dead; No says the messenger, but their hearts were, be­ing all surprized, some in their Mosques, and some in the Coffee houses, and not a man, that had his senses. Most of the horses being also kill'd. The Basha asked him how he escaped, he ans­wered, that he had the wit to hide himself, as a great many others did. There were three Gal­lys in the Mole at Candia, under the command of one Babba Hassan, who were sent out to look after Crevellier, but to no purpose, for they re­turned without seeing him. Since, there is an order that the Gates shall be shut an hour before Sunn set, and not opened till an hour after morn­ing prayers, and now there are several guards on the Mountains, besides the Basha of Candia, has threatned, the Providitore at Spina Longa, to complain to Venice if he suffer any Privateers to come into that Bay; so as for some years they [Page 77]have attempted nothing. The Country towards the South is not so mountanous as to the North, and Northwest parts; having several large and pleasant plaines, which have many ruins of fine town's. To the East of Girapetra about 10 miles I went to see a Cave under the Mountain of Iro as they now call it, where they say S^t Paul preached: it is a large Chappel having 12 pillars all cut out of the Rock, which was done by the Christians in the night time. Some say it was finished in less then a months time. Close by is a Fountain where they say he used to Baptize, and it is now called S^t Pauls Fountain, the water thereof is very good, to cure such as have sore eyes. From Gierapetra to Bonifacia is 14 hours riding most in plains, very delightsome, there being very high Mountains to the North, with most pleasant valleys between, and abundance of Cyprus trees. Bonifacia stands on a rising ground, having only the Walls of a Castle. The Inhabitants are most Greeks, very poor; here is a Metropolitan who pretends to be next to the Arch-Bishop of Candia. There are two Italian Churches; the dores are made up with Walls to keep Cattle from going in. The Greeks have four small Churches, but one will contain more then all the Inhabitants. They have now new named the place calling it Mala­facia instead of Bonifaci (good Face) it being so much alter'd from what it was in former time. [Page 78]From Bonifacia to the Labarinth is about 10 miles, or three hours riding W^t, most a plain. Several men have several opinions about this building, (if I may call it so.) But one Signior Venetando, who was born in a neighbouring Village, gives this account, that a certain King of this Island, had so great a hatred for all women, that he order'd this place for his Court, and at last lived so pri­vate that he would not suffer any to come to him but such as ruled in his stead. He would sel­dome come out but to worship at a Temple de­dicated to Jupiter, which stood close by it. In this Labarinth he ended his days, and had a fa­mous Tombe built for him, the ruins of which they shew you. The Labarinth is above two miles about, being so covered on the top with earth, as it seems to be all of firm land; we entred it with two torches, and candles in Lanthornes, having a line to direct us out again. The way is plain under foot, and archt over head, some ar­ches being about 10 foot high, some more, some less, with several windings. I made it my busi­ness to observe if there was any thing of a build­ing, in the pillars or sides, but found it most an entire stone, which they told me, so cemented together that indeed it appeared so. Here are a great many small places about 4 foot long, 2 broad, and 2 over, which were for burying pla­ces. There are abundance of batts, which hang [Page 79]in clusters, some are larger than ordinary. We endeavoured to fright them scorching their wings, by which we found there was life in them; their sleep is observ'd to be much more sound with a N^o. wind, than with a S^o. wind, as the spring comes on, they leave their palace. We had almost end­ed our line, being about 100 pikes, which is above 80 yards, and then returned out, being a good hour in the Labarinth. The damps are very great; against rain it is always dropping, but very dry with Northerly winds. At the end is a lake, and they tell you, that some have attempted to go to it, and have been drawn into it. Our cu­riosity did not invite us to see it, for were it not true, as in probability 'tis not, the noisom smells are enough to stifle one. To the South and close by, is a small Village with two Churches, which seem to have been Temples. To the S W^t, about 10 miles distant, is that famous and great Moun­tain called Psillo Vuona, formerly Mount Ida; at 4 of the Clock it casts a shadow on the Labarinth, on it are many pleasant Monasteries with Groves of Cypress trees, and abundance of Fountains. Some say the Coast of Barbary may be seen from the top. From the Labarinth to Candia is about 10 hours riding, most in a plain, till within 10 miles of the City. At the right hand, about a mile from the road, is a most stately Monastery, dedi­cated to our blessed Saviour, which was built by [Page 80]order of the Emperor Constantine the Great. It hath always been continued to the Greeks, and kept its splendor, till the late Warr, when it was much defaced. There are abundance of Mona­sterys, but very poor, and some are shut up for want of Priests.

Candia Novo is about 6 miles from the City of Candia Southward, being a strong Castle, having Mount Jove to the West. Here the Turks kept their Treasure and Ammunition, in the Siege of Candia. It is seated very pleasantly on a rising ground, giving a prospect to the Sea. It is now chiefly inhabited by Greeks; the Castle has a Garrison of Turks, which the Basha intended to bring to Candia, and demolish the Castle, hav­ing writ to the Port about it; but he had no an­swer. Candia, so famous, and generally known for the brave defence it made against the Turk, appears by the ruins to have been one of the best built Citys in the midd-land Seas. It is seated on the North side of the Island, almost midd-way between Canea and Sittia, in a pleasant Bay, hav­ing an artificial Port, secured from the N^o wind by a Mole about 200 yards long, with a strong and large Castle at the head, called Castel del Mo­lo having 20 great Guns. From the South is a low point of land, which runs into the Sea N^o. which secures it from the Easterly wind's, and makes the entrance not above 30 yards wide; [Page 81]upon this point of land the Turks have built a co­ver'd way, with a very thick wall, full of holes, for small shot, strongly arch't over, reaching from the Arsenal to the entrance into the Port, where is a small Fort with 4 great Guns, also ve­ry strongly arch't over, so as no Bomb can offend it. At the right hand, at coming out of the Gate to the Mole, is a new Fort built with 4 very great Guns, which lye level with the water, over them are 8 smaller Guns. This Fort is opposite to the mouth of the Port, and is arch't over to prevent danger from Bombs, or wild fire. On the Mole, are several great Guns planted with arches over them. To the East of the Arsenal, is the old Castle called La Battaria del Arsenal, which is rebuilt, with a ditch round it, to bring in the Sea, most cut out of a firm Rock. The Port is almost round, and secure against any wind, for Gallys and smaller Vessels, but there is not wa­ter enough for ships of any considerable bigness. It is fill'd very much with the rubbish, that the rains carryed into it, from the City, and would certainly have been choakt up in a few years, had it not been for a French Merchant, one Monsieur Dudei, who, to ingratiate himself with the Basha, caused an Engine to be brought from Marselle to cleanse it. There are the ruins of 12 Arches of the Arsenal, and about 6 Arches are yet en­tire, but they use them only to work in when the [Page 82]Gallys are there: No Gallys having been built here. The City is not repair'd towards the land, where the Walls are so much shaken, that it will require a great deal of time and cost to fortify them. From the Port towards the West, upon the Wall are 50 large Guns planted. The Fort of S^t Andrea at the N. W^t. of the City is well re­paired, having a double wall towards the Sea. In all there are about 400 Guns planted on the Walls, and out-works, which are 6 miles in circumference. The Gates of Candia are the best I ever saw, the Arch or Gate-house being about 100 yards long, and the Gates 10 broad, the Arch is all built of firm stone. It will take up three hours to walk round the out-works. There are several mines which were never blown up; Every mine had a distinct name, I was in one mine which was above a mile in length, being about 6 foot high and three broad. All the plain for above two miles without the Walls is like a new plow'd field, where you cannot walk, but must see pieces of dead mens bones. None are permitted to walk round the works, but such as have a Licence and a Janizary with them. The Turks take a delight to give an account of the strength of the place, and especially will shew you a small Cave or arch, where the Venetian Gene­ral did use to sleep (as they tell you) to secure himself from the Bombs. Not above one eighth [Page 83]part of the houses, that formerly were, are now inhabited, very few being left entire, nor do the Turks repair any but those where they dwell; the chief Mosque is well repair'd, it was formerly a Church dedicated to S^t Mark, and stands to the E^t of the great Piazza; to the South of it are part of the Walls of old Candia, close to which are built up a row of houses, two storie high for the Janizaries. The Basha's Pallace is a little below the great Mosque on the other side of the way; opposite to it is the great Hall, formerly called La Sala di Consiglio, which is a very stately building of white Marble, with several works in Basso Relievo; to the S E^t. of it stands the Church of S^t Francisco with an entire Cloyster, which is a Mosque. The street from the Mole to the chief Piazza is in good repair, being broad and pav'd with an even stone; the houses are also well inha­bited. But that part towards the W^t. is a heap of ruins, amongst which live the Jews, who have very large houses, but some of their upper rooms have no other shelter from the weather, but a few matts made fast upon poles. The beams of the old houses are bought up, and carryed to Ve­nice, Zante, and other places; and being made of Cyprus wood they serve to make chests and cabinets, many of which have been brought to England. The number of the Inhabitants of the City is not reckoned to be above 10000 with [Page 84] Greeks and Jews. There is a continual Garrison of 2000 Janizaries besides the Basha's guardes. Since the taking the place, they have granted liberty to all, who will come to inhabit there, but all their in­couragement cannot bring the Candiotes to dwell there. Formerly the Plain was full of Olive trees, with delightsom pleasure-houses and gardens. Now nothing but ruins are to be seen. The City stands on a rising ground from the Sea. The houses were so built with tarrazzis, as most from the tops could have a sight of the Sea. From Candia to Rettimo is about 12 hours riding. The City stands on a point of land very pleasantly, having a Port to the East, which is almost choakt up, so as no Gally can get over the barr being laden, but Brigantines and smaller Vessels are very secure against all winds. Towards the Sea are no Walls, the Rocks there fortifying the place, so as an Enemy can only come by land. This place was the first the Turks made themselves Masters of, putting all to the Sword, to give the greater terror to the rest of the Island. Since they possest it, they have built three new Forts, towards the Sea, and a wall with a dry Ditch to landward. It is now chiefly inhabited by Turks, who trade to Constantinople considerably. The houses are here intire according to the Venetian manner of building. There are some Greeks that dwel in the City; but they have a small town a­bout [Page 85]a quarter of a mile off, where are 2 Churches, where they have free exercise of their Religion. The Country hereabout is very pleasant, full of Olive trees, and from the Sea side, the land rises easily to the foot of the Mountains of Sfacia, a­bout 8 miles from the City, which from the Sea seems to be all a wood, from which Mountains run several pleasant streames, and one very large river called Platonico, which is continually full, being supplyed from above a thousand Fountains, which the Mountains produce. These Moun­tains of Sfacia are abounding in all things neces­sary for life, and nothing can be more delight­som in the Summer time. They reach near 30 miles towards the S W^t. in length, and in some places about 10 in breadth, coming down close to the Bay of Suda. The Cheese which is made here, is bought up by the Venetians and other Mer­chants, and transported to France, Italy, Zante, &c. It is the best Cheese that is made in any of the Southern parts, and generally as good as our Cheshire Cheeses, being made as bigg. Besides which they have great store of Honey, Wax, Silk, Wool, Cordovan-Leather, and a sort of goats Hair, little inferior to that of Angura in Asia. No Olives, Oranges, or Lemons grow here. There are above 100 Villages on these Mountains, besides several Monasteries. The Inhabitants are a Warr-like People, and withstood [Page 86]the Turks above 20 years after Rettimo was taken, living as the Mainiotes in the Morea. There are such difficult passages to them, that an army can­not march. Now at last they are brought into obedience, and by humbling themselves to the Vizier, he granted them great privileges, to in­courage them, least they should take part with the Venetians, who have the Island of Suda so near them. As the Vizier past by in his way from Canea to Candia, they brought him several presents, which the Mountains produced; which he was so well pleased with, that he exempted them from going with him, and paying their at­tendance on him, only he obliged them to furnish the Camp with mutton at a certain rate. Most of his own provision was carryed from hence. Sheep at three timins (about a shilling) a piece, butter at a timine the oke (a groat for two pound 8 ounces) Cheese at the same rate, and at this price they were obliged to carry it as far as the Camp before Candia, where an officer gave them an acquittance, which was abated them out of their tribute. They have a certain Drugg, called by the Venetian Oldani, much of the colour of Li­quorish in balls, it is a very great conforter of the head, having a pleasant smell, being burnt it gives a very pleasant sent. Most of this is bought up by the Venetians, and sent to Venice. Here is also a sort of wood which the Greeks call Platte [Page 87]iksillo, it burns like a torch & gives a most fragrant smell; much of it was used to burn at the Siege. Every night at the Viziers, and other great mens tents they had fires of this wood, the wood be­ing cut small, and put into an Iron grate at the end of a pole fastned in the ground. If a man be hot in the plain, in riding two or three hours up the hills, he shall find so great an alteration in the air, as is incredible. About 15 miles from Retimo is a lovely Fountain called Bognare Bashe, standing so between two mountains, that at 2 in the afternoon it is shady, continuing so all the rest of the day. The water is so cold as will cause a dew upon any fruit that is put into it, and be one never so hot, to drink of this water it will do him no harm: In the Summer time here are always some persons of Quality, who bring their beds, and continue for several days together. The Sfacioti are a healthy, strong, and stout people, they pretend to be of a very Ancient Stock, some there are who derive their family from be­fore the coming of our Saviour. I saw a Callojero that was 110 years of age, he was very lusty and could walk very well with a staff. Part of these hills are under the Jurisdiction of the Bishop of Retimo, and part under that of Canea. From Retimo to Canea, the Road is most by the Sea side passing by the Bay of Suda, having the moun­tains of Sfacia on the left hand. [Page 88]

Canea is seated in a fine plain about 3 miles from the bottom of the Bay of Suda, and upon the Sea to the North, having a very fair harbour which may be called a double Port, the one be­ing round, the other stretching away to the East­ward; where are two Arsenals. It is secure a­gainst the worst of weathers, The entrance is narrow, and not above 18 foot water. To the West of which the Turks have built a new batte­ry with 20 very large Guns, and above it to the South is a great Cittadel, in which are 40 good Guns. To the East of the Entrance is another great Castle which commands the part called the Sabioniera, with the Arsenal. Round about the Port is a broad key, which is always full with merchandize, and is little inferior to the Port at Marseilles. The houses are all very well built and not much batter'd. The Walls are in very good repair, having a dry ditch about 30 yards broad, and 6 deep, from the land on the other side. The Walls are about 30 foot high; within them the earth is raised, about 10 foot higher than the Walls, there being a walk between. There is a mount which they call the Marteningo where formerly were 10 Guns, but now it is of no use. Toward the land there are 4 Bastions. To the South is the great gate called La Porti di Retimo. To the West is a mace placed on the Wall, to shew where a Basha, at the taking of the place, [Page 89]first enter'd the City: before the Gate is a half moon built of earth about 20 foot high; at each end is a small Pyramid of mortar and sculls, which are the sculls of Christians, who were slain be­fore the place in the year 1666. The Venetians then attempting to regain the place under the conduct of Marquis Vila, a Savojard, 5000 men were landed at Culatte at the bottom of the Bay of Suda, and were encamped before the City several days. The Turks sallyed out of the City, to the W^t. surprizing the Christians, and had a ve­ry great victory, pursuing them to the Fort which was built at the bottom of the Bay. In this flight there were above 1500 killed and se­veral taken Prisoners: amongst the latter was one Captain Scot, a Scotch-man, who had his hand upon the draw-bridg of the City; he was carryed afterwards to Smyrna in the Gally's and there redeem'd by the English Merchants: but when he came to Venice his arrears were paid him and he returned his ransom to Smyrna, which re­main'd in bank, till another like occasion should present it self. The City is near three miles in circumference, and is much better Inhabited than Candia, having a Basha and other officers as in Candia, only in all Councils the other hath the precedence. The Country about is very plea­sant, being all a plain for above 6 miles to the South and West, planted with young Olive trees [Page 90]so that it seems to be a Garden. It is well sup­ply'd, both with Flesh, and Fish, of the latter there is great store, for besides the Sea, there is a Lake about 10 miles to the South, which furnishes them with great variety of all sorts. The trade is much greater here than at Candia, it lying so convenient, for the Morea, Italy, and other pla­ces. The French have a great trade for oyl, wools, wax, cheese, and several other commo­dities, having a Consul, and two Merchants. The Venetians have also a Consul, but most of their oyl is shipped off from Suda, to which place it is brought from Retimo and other places there­about. All great ships come to an anchor at a place called S^t Todoro, being 2 small Isletts about 5 miles to the West of the Port of Canea; there is very good anchorage, and a small Fort to defend them. On one Island, notwithstanding it seems to be all stone, and is very low, there are several Fountains of water. No Greeks live within the City. They have a new town built to the South, about half a mile off, where are two long streets, very commodious, and here they injoy all the li­berty they desire: their Churches are open, and the Bishop hath a very pleasant house, living in good Esteem. Close to this town runs a pleasant River, which is seldom dry, There are likewise several pleasant gardens, well stock't with all sorts of delicious fruits. The Turks have also [Page 91]some gardens here, but they must retire into the City an hour before Sun set, winter and summer, or else must remain out all night, the gates being then shut, and a strict watch kept about the Walls. The Turks of this place are generally ve­ry rich, and incline to trade, giving all encourage­ment to have Merchants come and reside amongst them. There was an English merchant here one M^r Trenchard, who was recommended to the French Consul to have his assistance, but in a lit­tle time he grew weary of the place. Here they keep their oyl in great Vessels called Tini, which are square and made of wood, some will hold 20 Tunns. They have a special regard to preserve the esteem of their oyl, nor will they force a merchant to take any longer than it comes clear, not mixing the bottoms, as in some parts they will, by taking a hollow cane, and putting it to the bottom, by blowing through which they raise the foot of the oyl, so that thick and thin goes together. Here they sell the Foot of the oyl at an under price; and this serves to make sope. Most parts of Turky have an Esteem for Canea oyl above others. Some will have it to be the better for that the trees are all so young; others impute it to their care in the making, for here they gather all their Olives, whereas in the Morea they thrash them down with poles. The wines are generally Esteem'd above all others. The red muscadine [Page 92]they call here Leattico, 'tis a richer wine than Tent at Cadize, and much more pleasant. I have seen it sold at 15 gallons for half a dollar. White muscadine is not so good as that at Luxu­ria in Ceffalonia. Some are of opinion that in the Warr the true Muscadine grape was lost; on the Mountains there are smaller sorts of Wine, so as a man may have what sort he pleases. All sorts of Provision are very plentiful, but in the Summer time the mutton hath generally a bad tast, which proceeds from their feeding on some hearb on the Mountains. Here are Fowl of all sorts in a­bundance; but especially a bird called Beccha Figge, which is almost a lump of Fat: they are valued about 4 for an asper, (or 8 for a penny) Turtle-doves and Quailes are very plentifull. Their Beef is small, but very sweet. Of Fruits there is no sort, but what they have. I never saw larger pears than are brought from the Moun­tains, being a sort of Sugar pear. Their musk­melons are very good, but their water-melons are singular. Salating there is all the year of all sorts: no place is esteem'd to have larger and bet­ter Endive and Carduus, than there are here. I have seen Sugar canes of a great height, full as good as what are brought from Grand Cairo. There are abundance of Simples which are bought here for France and Italy. Some say the reason why no Venemous thing will live on this Island, is [Page 93]the quantity of Dittamo that grows here. O­thers say it has only been since S^t Paul set foot upon the Island. Most of the Candiotes pretend to have great knowledg in Simples. The women are experienced Doctoresses. One I have reason to say was very skilful, she having in a little time wrought a great cure upon me; For by accident a Bullet having past through my Legg, I applyed my self to her, and in 15 days she cured it. She did not allow me to eat any flesh, till it was per­fectly well. They have several antidotes against the Plague, but they had not the effect they pre­tended, for several of the Doctoresses were swept away by that disease, but most certain it is that af­ter S^t John Baptists day, it did here abate, as they always observe it in most of these Eastern parts. There are several other places that have had the name of Citys, which are now heaps of ruins; many hundred stately Pallaces there were that now have only some Walls, and those most fallen down. The Candiots keep their Habit, that is the women, but the men are most alla Turches­ca, especially the better sort. They are as Ig­norant of the Antiquity of their Country, as the Moreotes, that have been above 200 years in sla­very. There is no Latin Church upon the whole Island (as I was informed) but what is shut up, or converted to the Turks use. Before the Turks conquered this Island, there were above a million [Page 94]of Souls, whereas now there are not 80000, of which not obove 30000 Turks on the whole Island.

1. CArabusa to the West end of the Island, a­bout six miles from the main, having a very good Port between the Islett and the main Island: the Castle is very strong, having about 80 Guns. In the late Warr it withstood several assaults, but it lying so far from any considerable City, the Turks did not so much mind it as they did Suda. Here is a continual Garrison of Venetian soldiers and a Proveditore, who is under the Inquisitore at Suda. In time of peace with the Turks, they have a continual trade and very good correspon­dence with them, having all sorts of provision at very reasonable rates.

2. Spina Longa, lyes about 40 miles to the East of the City of Candia, at the Entrance of a great Bay. The Islett is not above a mile and a half about, it has a very good Fortification round it, besides 'tis steep all about, so as an Enemy cannot well land. It is not above a mile from a point of land, where the Turks raised a Battery, and continued for a week to batter the Castle, but to little Purpose, for most of their dwellings are in [Page 95]Caves under ground. Here and at Carabusa is no water but what is brought them by shipping. or what they save in great Cisterns and Jarrs. Here is also a Proveditore and a Garrison of Vene­tian soldiers.

3. Suda lyes in a great Bay about 30 miles from Retimo West, 12 miles from Canea, and 9 from the bottom of the Bay South East, having the land to the South about a mile, and to the N W^t. not above half a mile distant. The Island is about 2 miles in circumference, not above 50 foot above the water at the highest part, being all rock and steep round. To the S W^t. lyes a long Rock about 10 foot above water, and not above 20 from the Island; against it is the Entrance up to the Castle very steep and winding; having two Gates, and a strong counterscarp before you pass into the main Castle. The Wall about the Island is low but very thick. To the W^t. is a Mount called il Marteningo, about 30 Foot high, and 300 in circumference very strongly built with small stone and mortar, which has above 1000 shot in it. They are so fast in, that it would indanger its falling, if they should be pull'd out. The Castle is quite round the Islett, wherein and upon the Marteningo are about 120 Guns planted. The Turks have several times attempted to take this place, and to that purpose in the year 1659 they built 6 Castles, three on [Page 96]each side of the Bay, from whence they conti­nued to batter it, and secured the Harbour so, as no Ship or Gally could come to bring them succor, but what in the night small Vessels would adventure to get in. In the year 1665 the Ca­ptain Basha attempted to assault it; he came with 45 Gally's, but durst not adventure to land any men. He caused the Gallys to batter that part which is to Sea-ward, while on the other side they continually fired from the 6 Forts. The Ve­netian Fleet was so dispersed that they could not come to relieve them. The besieged were much streightned for provision, but most for want of wa­ter, for above a month they had but a pint a day, and were so disheartned that they near inclined to surrender the place. But it pleased God to shew them his goodness in a signal manner, by a shot from the Enemy, which did cleave a rock in sunder at the bottom a little above the Sea, out of which sprang a water which sufficed them to drink. I have seen the Fountain, and drank of the water, tho it is not very pleasant. Several Of­ficers that were in the Island, when it was Besieg­ed avouched this for a truth; It being noted in the Venetian History of Suda. The winds com­ing about Northerly the Venetian Fleet came from Zante, forcing the Turkish Gallys to retreat. The Captain Basha was kill'd with a great shot, upon which the Army broke up, and retired to [Page 97] Canea. The Vizier in his march from Canea to Candia past by here, and with admiration beheld the place, but would not attempt any thing a­gainst it, saying, it was not worth the men which had been already lost against it. The Port is very commodious, being one of the largest in all these Seas, and there is very good anchor-hold all over the Bay. At the bottom of which are salt panns. The Turks have here a small Tower, where are two or three servants of the Customer of Canea, to see that no goods are carried away; which have not paid Custome at the City. In time of peace they have all provissions from Canea, at the mar­ket price, and there is a good Correspondence betwixt the Inquisitore of Suda, and the Basha, who often send letters to one another. The Go­vernor of Suda hath the title of Inquisitore Gene­rale delle Isole di Levante; Cerigo and Tine, be­ing also under his Government, altho' there are Providetors to both. The Venetians have no be­nesit from these Islands, but are at a continual charge to maintain the Garrisons in each. The bottom of the Bay, they call Cullatte.