CHAP. I. Of Europe in general.

THE World is uſually divided into four Parts; that is to ſay, Aſia, Africa, America and Europe. This laſt is the ſmalleſt of all; but without contradiction the moſt conſiderable, in regard it is moſt Populous, moſt Fertile, and under the moſt noble and beſt order'd Forms of Government. The Bounds of it to the North, are the Northern, or the Frozen Sea; to the Weſt the Atlantick Ocean; the Mediterranean, to the South, which ſeparates it from Africa; and to the Eaſt, the Aegean Sea, the Streight of Gallipoli, the Sea of Marmara, the Streight of Conſtantinople, the Black Sea, the Palus Maeotis, the Tanais, &c. which part it from Aſia.

The Length of it from Cape St. Vincents in the Weſtern part of Spain, to the mouth of the River Ob, in the Frontiers of Muſcovy, is about thirteen hundred Leagues.

Moreover there are always ſaid to be in Europe, beſides the Territories of the Church in Italy, two Empires, that of Germany, and that of Turky; ſeven Kingdoms under different Soveraigns who acknowledge no Superior; France, Spain, England, Portugal, Sweden, Denmark and Poland. The firſt ſix Hereditary, the latter Elective. There are now nine Electorates, Mayence, Treves, Cologne, Bohemia, Bavaria, Saxony, Brandenburgh, the Palatinate, and Hanover; which are all Soveraign States under the Titles of Dukedoms, Marquiſates, &c. We have alſo in Europe two Great Dukedomes, Muſcovy and Tuſcany. Six other Dukedoms, beſides thoſe which are enclos'd within the Empire; viz. Lorrain, Savoy, Mantoua, Modena, Parma and Curland. Seven Republicks; viz. The United Provinces, otherwiſe call'd Holland, Switzerland, Venice, Genoa, Luca, St. Marin, and Raguſa. And beſides all this there is the Arch-Dukedom of Auſtria, the Patrimony of the Empire, who alſo poſſeſſes Bohemia and Hungary. As for the Principalities of Tranſylvania, Moldavia, and Walachia, they are poſſeſs'd by particular Princes who are tributary either to the Emperor or the Grand Signior, and ſometimes to both together.

The Principal Iſlands of Europe are England united to Scotland, Ireland, Majorca, Minorca, Sicily, Sardignia, Corfu, Creet, and an infinite number of others in the Archipelago. And the Higheſt Mountains are in France, the Pyreneans and the Alpes; La Sierra Morena in Spain; the Apennine in Italy; Parnaſſus in Greece; the Crapack in Poland; the Rhipheans in Muſcovy; and Mont Gibel in Sicily.

This part of the World is water'd with an infinite number of fair Streams and vaſt Rivers, which contribute not a little to the Fertility of it. The moſt conſiderable are the Seine, the Loire, the Garonne, the Rhone in France; the Duero, the Tagus, the Guadiana, the Guadalquivir, the Ebro in Spain; the Po and Tibur in Italy; the Danaw, the Rhine, the Elbe, the Order in Germany; the Viſtula and Niepor in Poland; the Volga, and Don, in Muſcovy; the Thames, Severn and Trent in England, the Tay in Scotland, and the Shanon in Ireland.

CHAP. II. Of France in general.

FRance is to Europe, as Europe is to all the other parts of the World, for number of Inhabitants, for the Ingenuity of the People, the Fertility of the Soil, the Temper of the Climate, and the Excellency of the Wine. The Government is Monarchical, but too ſeverely Abſolute, tho the Nobility are brave and Warlike. This Kingdom is ſeated between the forty ſecond and fifty firſt degree of Latitude, and the fifteenth and nineteenth of Longitude. It is bounded to the Weſt by the Great Ocean; to the Eaſt, by the Rhine and the Alpes, that ſeparate it from Germany and Italy; to the South, by the Mediterranean Sea, and the Pyreneans that divide it from Spain; and to the North by St. Georges-Channel, which the French call La Manche, that parts it from England. But theſe Bounds have not hinder'd the Kings from frequently extending their Dominions beyond theſe Limits, and without ſearching paſt Ages for Examples, no body can be ignorant that in our days neither the Rhine, the Alpes, nor the Pyreneans could ſtop the Rapidneſs of the Conqueſts of Lewis the XIV.

France is about two hundred and ſixty Leagues in length, if we take it from the Coaſts of Britany, to the Frontiers of Switzerland, and two hundred and forty in breadth from Dunkirk ro Perpignan

The Kingdom is compos'd of Three Eſtates, the Clergy, the Nobility and the People. In 1614. the States General of the Kingdom being ſummon'd to meet at Paris, appear'd there under Twelve great Governments; which are Picardy, Normandy, Champagne, the Iſland of France, Britany, Orleanois, Burgogne, Lionois, the Dauphinate, Provence, Languedoc and Guienne; and under theſe Governments are comprehended Le Maine, Anjou, Tourain, Poictou Xaintoin, Perigort, Limozin, Querci, Rovergne, Auvergne, Gevodan, Albigeois, Bearne, Bigorre, Foix, Cominges, Armagnac, Vivarez, Le Foreſt, Beaugelois, Bugeay, Valcomay, La Breſſe, Nivernois, Bourbonnois, Berri, Salogne, Gatinois, Beauce, &c.

All this ſhews us that France muſt needs be a very Potent Kingdom, ſince it includes ſo great a number of Fair Provinces; ſome of which contain more Cities, Burroughs and Villages then many Soveraign Kingdoms and Principalities. But if you add to theſe the Conqueſts of Lewis the XIII and XIV, you will find the Limits of this Kingdom to be of a much larger Extent, ſince thoſe two Monarchs ſubdu'd Franche Contè, Lorraine, Alſatia, Artois, part of Flanders, Hainault, Luxemburgh, &c.

France, which was known to the Ancients under the name of Gaul, is a Hereditary Kingdom, the Crown of which cannot deſcend to the Female Sex, by vertue of the Salique Law. It always belongs to the Eldeſt Son and for want of Male Iſſue to the next of Kin. France has beheld upon the Throne Kings of three Races. The firſt was that of Meroveus; the ſecond, that of Charlemaigne; and the third that of Hugh Capet. Pharamond was the firſt King of France: He began to Reign in the year 400 of our Salvation; and Clovis who was the Fifth King of this Monarchy, was the firſt who embrac'd Chriſtianity in 499 being baptiz'd by St. Remi, Biſhop of Rheims; and ever ſince that time it was that our Kings have born the Title of Moſt Chriſtian King, and Eldeſt Son of the Church which no other Potentate diſputes with 'em.

As to the Humour of the French, they are lookt upon to have a quick and penetrating Wit, to be civil, jolly, and generous, but the moſt inconſtant and moſt impatient in Europe.

There are reckon'd to be in France Eight Arch-Biſhopricks, which have under their Juriſdiction a hundred and eleven Biſhopricks; that is to ſay, as far as I can remember, Paris, Lim, Rouen-Tours, Reims, Sens, Cambray, Bourges, Bourdeaux, Auch, Vienne, Ambrun, Toulouſe, Narbonne, Aix, Arles, Avignon, and Treves, which have under 'em a hundred twenty five Suffragans. Fourteen Parliaments or Soveraign Courts; viz. Paris, Toulouſe, Grenoble, Bourdeaux, Dijon, Rouen, Aix, Rennes, Pau, Metz, Tournay, Perpignan, Beſanſon and Chamberi.

Beſides an infinite number of Colledges, with which all the Cities of France are provided for the Education of Youth, there are ſixteen famous Univerſities; viz▪ that of Paris, Toulouſe, Montpellier, Orleans, Angers, Poictiers, Caen, Bourdeaux, Bourges, Cahors, Nantes, Rheims, Valence, Aix, Avignon and Orange.

This is all I have to ſay of France in general: I now come to the Remarks which I have made in my Travels, beginning with Provence, which is one of the Extream parts of the Kingdom.

CHAP. III. Of Provence.

GEographers uſually divide this Province into the Upper and Lower Provence: The Upper is very Mountainous and Barren: But to recompence compence that defect, the Lower may be lookt upon as a Terreſtrial Paradiſe. And did not Sacred Hiſtory inform us of the Rivers Phiſon, Gehon, and Euphrates, that environ'd the Garden of Eden, which God gave to our Firſt Parent Adam, we might have juſt reaſon to believe that the Paradiſe of all Delights was in Lower Provence. The Air is ſo mild and temperate, and the Soil ſo fertile, that it produces Corn in abundance, Wine, Oyl, Silk, together with great variety of Excellent Fruits; and in the depth of Winter, you may without any trouble find Oranges, Jelſomines, Roſes and Violets in Flower.

The Provencials are generally accounted a more rude and clowniſh ſort of People then they who inhabit the Neighbouring Provinces. Perhaps their nearneſs to the Sea, and the reſort of all ſorts of Nations that come thither for the ſake of Trade, may not a little contribute to it. But the Women are merry and jocund, and have excellent Voices.

Aix is the Capital City of the Province, large and fair; the Houſes are built after the Modern Faſhion, and thoſe that ſtand next the Court are like ſo many Palaces. It is the Seat of the Parliament of Provence, and of an Arch-Biſhoprick, a Chamber of Accounts, a Court of Aids, a Mint, and a Generality. There is alſo in it an Univerſity for Law and Phyſick, founded by H. the IV. The Churches are very beautiful, and the Curious fail not to examin the Font of Baptiſm in that of St. Saviour, ſupported by eight Marble Columns, upon which 'tis ſaid that in Old Time they ſacrific'd to Baal. In the Church of the Carmelites is to be ſeen the Sepulchre of Renatus, King of Jeruſalem.

Some Leagues from Aix ſtands a Burrough call'd Sallon, where Noſtre Damus, ſo famous for his Predictions, was born, and interr'd in the Church of the Franciſcan Grey-Fryers; his Tomb being half within the Church, and half without: Which has given an occaſion for ſome people to ſay, that it was ſo contriv'd, becauſe it was not known whether he were a Prophet or a Conjurer: But the Monk that ſhew'd it us, told us, that Noſtre Damus himſelf had order'd it to be erected after that manner: For that finding the World to be ſo corrupt as it is, he was deſirous to leave it in a ſingular manner. For that having rais'd his Tomb to Man's height, he caus'd himſelf to be enclos'd therein while he was living, after he had made proviſion of Oyl for his Lamp, Pens, Ink and Paper, and pronounc'd a Curſe upon him that ſhould open it before ſuch a time; which by the Calculation of the Fryer, was to expire at the beginning of the eighteenth Age.

And upon my ſaying to the Fryer, that by the Epitaph which appear'd upon his Tomb, it did not appear that he was enterr'd alive, but that he di'd the firſt of July 1566. in the 62th year of his Age; the Monk repli'd, that from that day he was dead to the World, and that in engraving the Epitaph, they had follow'd his directions; all which was to be juſtifi'd by the Regiſters of the Convent; and that he would have part of his Tomb to be in the Street, to let the World know the remaining part of Human Life, which perhaps he employ'd in pious works. For my part, I had much ado to believe the Monk, but that the reſpect which is owing to his Character perſwaded me that he would not ſuffer an Impoſtor to eſcape his Lips. However it were, I cannot tell whether honeſt Noſtre Damus repented or no, but I am ſure he was in an ill condition, if he let his Lamp go out, before he had finiſh'd what he had to write.

Beaucaire is a City ſeated upon the Banks of the Rhone, famous for the Fair which is there held the 22d of July, which draws to it all the Nations of Europe, and Immenſe Wealth.

On the other ſide of the River is to be ſeen the City of Taraſcon, where Renatus King of Jeruſalem and Sicily built a very fair Caſtle. Some years ago a certain perſon digging a Vault in his Cellar, found a Wall with an Iron Gate, which he caus'd to be open'd, and then diſcover'd a hollow paſſage, from whence he heard a moſt dreadful Noiſe, ſo terrible indeed, that he durſt not ſatisfie his Curioſity any farther. However, the Magiſtrates of the City being inform'd of it, were reſolv'd to know what it was. To which purpoſe they proffer'd a condemn'd perſon his Life, if he would but go and take a view of that Subterraneal Gallery.

This man being fortifi'd with every thing which he thought neceſſary to infuſe a confidence into him, enter'd in. But before he got five and twenty or thirty paces, he return'd like a man hard out of his ſenſes, crying out, That they might hang him if they pleas'd, for he would not die a Death which he did not underſtand. He told 'em he heard a moſt dreadful Noiſe, which grew louder and louder the farther he went. After they had given him time till the next day to recover himſelf, they offer'd him new favours, and ſome Money if he would go to the End of the Gallery. That allurement made him reſolve to ſcorn all dangers, and having recover'd freſh ſtrength, he went to the Bottom, where he found another Iron Gate, at which he knockt, as he ſaid, but no body anſwer'd; he added alſo, that the roaring Noiſe continu'd for half the way, and ſeem'd to be over his Head.

This Rehearſal augmented the Curioſity of the Magiſtrates of Taraſcon, and oblig'd 'em to ſend Work-men to force open the Gate; but unwillingneſs or fears over-maſtering their Obedience and Duty, there were none reſolute enough to be found: for they lookt upon the laſt Gate to be certainly the Gate which led to Hell. However, the Magiſtrates found an Expedient to gain their good wills, perſwading 'em that there was ſome vaſt Treaſure hid there, and that if they found it to be really ſo, they would give 'em the twenty fifth part of it. Upon that, they found Work-men more than enow, and the Gate being ſoon open'd, they as ſoon diſcover'd that the hollow way led to Beaucaire, that it was a Subterranean Communication between one City and the other, and that the Noiſe was nothing but the Rapidneſs of the Rhone, which rolling the Stones along with it, caus'd that hideous rumbling in the Vault. Since which time, 'tis a common ſaying among the Bricklayers of Taraſcon, That the Twenty fifth part of Beaucaire belongs to them.

Arles, formerly the Capital of a Kingdom, is ſeated alſo upon the Banks of the Rhone, drawing towards the Sea. People ſay, the Air is not ſo wholeſom there, and that there is a paſſage from thence under Ground to Nimes, but I could never find any certainty in that report. There are to be ſeen in this City two Porticoes of an admirable Structure, an Amphitheater and an Obeliſque, built by the Romans, and the Sepulchre of Rowland, Nephew to Charlemaine. There is alſo in the Town-houſe a Marble Statue of Diana, which Goddeſs had formerly a Temple in an Iſland of the Rhone a little below the City. Travellers that delight in viewing Ancient Tombs, may find a great number near Arles. For 'tis ſaid, that the Pagans call'd theſe parts the Elyſian Fields, and that they who inhabited along the River from Arles to Lyons, deſirous that their Bodies ſhould be there buri'd, they ty'd 'em to Planks, with Money ſufficient for their Enterment, and put 'em into the Water, verily believing that the Stream would carry 'em to the Elyſian Fields, without going any farther.

They alſo ſhew'd me the houſe where Eight Children, all Twins were born at one Birth, which the Mother would needs have thrown into the River all but the Ninth. And they farther told me, 'twas through the Judgment of God that this Woman had ſo many Children at a time, becauſe ſhe had tax'd a Beggar-woman of unchaſtneſs for having Three at one Delivery, who thereupon wiſht, if ſhe were not a Whore, that her Accuſer might have as many as a Sow barrows Piggs at once. Let the Story be true or falſe, certain it is, that 'tis not only in theſe parts where ſuch Prodigies are pretended to have happen'd; for I have ſeen in Holland the Caſtle of a Lady, who is reported to have been brought to Bed at one time of as many Children as there are days in the year. St. Maximin is a little City in the Neighbourhood of Aix, remarkable for the Holy Vial, which is there kept, and which draws Pilgrims to it from all parts of Europe. They pretend that in this Holy Vial there is the Blood and Water which iſſued from our Saviour's ſide, which by a Miracle, moves every Good Friday from Eleven a Clock till high Noon.

In the year 1679. I was there upon the ſame day, and what I happen'd to obſerve was this. They carri'd us up into a Gallery guarded by ſix Halberdeers, as well to prevent diſorder as for the ſecurity of their pretious Relique. In the midſt of the Gallery in a kind of by-corner we found a Jacobin Frier holding the ſacred Vial in his hand; Which is a Vial much in the Form of our Hour Glaſſes of Sand, in which you may perceive a Liquor as clear as Rock-water, with a little black Moat that danced up and down in the Viol, and which ſometimes inclining to fall down to the Bottom, ſometimes mounted up all of a ſudden to the Top.

This Devotion draws great Profit to the Convent; So that the Inhabitants of the place would never care how often the Miracle happen'd. There is alſo in the ſame Church the Head of Mary Magdalen in a Golden Shrine, and her Body in another.

From thence we mounted for four Hours together, that we might get to St. Baume, through a dreadful Deſert. In this place they ſay it was, that Mary Magdalen did Pennance, and there is to be ſeen in a Grotto where the Rock-water diſtills from all parts, one little place dry, which was the Place where Magdalen lay. There is in this Nook a ſmall Convent of Jacobins, with one only Inn belonging to it, where were above four thouſand Perſons in all, very ill accommodated. The next day we aſcended above the Clouds; at leaſt when we were at St. Piton, we ſaw the Clouds thicken and gather together under us. This is the Place, as the Tradition goes, where the Angels brought Penitent Magdalen her Victuals. Afterwards we travell'd through a continual Deſert to Toulton; For we went above eight Leagues before we met with one Houſe, or a drop of Water to drink.

Toulton is a very fair City ſeated upon the ſhoar of the Mediterranean Sea: It has a good Haven, where the Kings biggeſt Men of War ride ſecure from the injuries of the Weather or the Attempts of an Enemy. Henry IV. fortifi'd it with Walls, for the ſecurity of the Port and the Arſenal, which is the chiefeſt the French have upon that Sea.

Marſeilles is another Sea Port, which is held to be the ſafeſt in all Europe. The City is very antient; as having been built ſix hundred thirty three years before the Birth of Chriſt: and 'tis the uſual place where the Kings Galleys, which are very numerous, ride. This Haven is defended by the Fortreſs of our Lady of the Guard; by two Citadels at the entrance into the Port, which is barr'd up with a huge chain; and there are there Forts in the little Iſlands a league from the City which ſecure the Road. They are call'd the Fort of St. John, Le Rattoneau, and the Caſtle Dif, furniſh'd with good Garriſons, and with all things neceſſary for their Defence. This laſt Caſtle is remarkable for this, that 'tis the Place where they ſhut up Youths of Good Houſes, that vex their Superiors by their Exorbitant Debaucheries and Leud behaviour; and where they are kept ſo long as is thought convenient with a moderate allowance.

The City it ſelf is very Beautiful and without all contradiction the moſt wealthy in the Province, by reaſon of the Haven, by which means it has all the Trade of the Levant, Italy, Spain and Africa to it ſelf. The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Lazarus, in memory of this, that the Perſecutors of the Primitive Church, having put Lazarus together with Mary Magdalen and Martha his Siſters, into a Veſſel without Sails and Seamen, and expoſing it in that manner to the Mercileſs Waves, the Veſſel after it had been toſs'd to and fro for ſome time by the raging Billows, was by Providence guided into the Port of Marſeilles, where Lazarus having preach'd the Goſpel was made Biſhop of the place, and di'd there.

The Slaves at Marſeilles, all the length of the Port, keep Barbers Shops and Fripperies, like thoſe upon Pont Neuf at Paris, where they ſell all manner of Linnen Cloaths, Breeches, and other neceſſary Furniture at ſecond Hand. They who have this leave, are chain'd there in the Morning, and know what they muſt give a day to their Officers. There are others that make up together Companies of Fidlers, noiſes of Trumpets, Hautboys and other Inſtruments, who being all chain'd together and attended by a Souldier, go about from Tavern to Tavern, and Houſe to Houſe, to play to thoſe that will give 'em any thing.

There is in the Convent of the Obſervance, the Head of one called Borduni, the ſon of a Notary Publick of Marſeilles which is of a Prodigious bigneſs. For, tho the Man, who liv'd at the beginning of this Age, were not above four foot high, his Head takes up the fourth part of that heighth, and three foot in compaſs at the ſides. He had ſo little wit, tho his Head were full of Brains, that he gave occaſion to the Proverb, when you would talk of a Man that wanted ſence, He has no more wit then Borduni.

When you go out of the City, it looks as if you were entring into Suburbs that are near two Leagues in extent. For that in the parts adjoining to Marſeilles, there are above ſix thouſand Country Houſes, which the Provenſals call Baſtades, and which ſtand ſo near one to another, that many times there is hardly a Garden between 'em. This is a very great Ornament to the out parts of the City, and of great Benefit, when the Town is afflicted with the Peſtilence; there being few of the Burgeſſes but who have one of thoſe Baſtades: for they are ſtill in fear leſt ſome Veſſel or other ſhould bring that ſpreading Contagion among 'em. Which is the reaſon that they are to obſerve an exact Quarantan under the Cannon of the Caſtle Dif, and thoſe other Fortreſſes which I have mention'd.

They are excellent Artiſts at Marſeilles for working in Corral, and you meet there with that which is extraordinary for the whiteneſs of it.

CHAP. IV. Of the County of Venaiſſin, and the Principality of Orange.

THE County of Venaiſſin is a little Province enclos'd between Provence and the Dauphinate, the Capital City of which is Avignon, which is ſeated upon the Banks of the Rhone, ſurrounded with the moſt Beautiful Walls in Europe. It has been frequently the reſidence of the Roman Pontiffs, and that ſuffices to convince the Reader that it muſt needs be ſtor'd with beautiful Edifices both Sacred and Prophane. The Popes are alſo ſtill in poſſeſſion of it to this day, and ſend a Legate thither; and it was thus that the Holy See came to have a Title to it.

Pope Clement the ſixth, taking advantage of the neceſſity to which the Princeſs Joane, Daughter of Charles II. Count of Provence, to whom Avignon with all dependencies belong'd, had reduc'd her ſelf, purchas'd this City of her for forty eight Thouſand Livres, Money of France. The Contract of Sale was paſſed the 19th of June 1348. and Hiſtory reports that the Money was never paid. However it were, the Princeſs was a Minor at the time of the Sale, and beſides that, ſhe could not alienate her Demeans, there being Laws that expreſly ordain'd the contrary. So that this Sale was indeed no more than a Mortgage. Thereupon the Parliament of Provence reunited the City of Avignon, and the whole County of Venaiſſin to the Crown. Which ſhews that the Holy See enjoys it onely by the liberality of the Kings of France; neither is this the onely nor the moſt conſiderable benefit which Rome has receiv'd from the French Crown.

There is a Jewiſh Synagogue at Avignon very naſty and out of Order; and though they are bound to hear a Frier Preach every week; they are ſo obſtinate in their Judaiſm, that there are very few that embrace Chriſtianity. They all wear yellow Hats, to diſtinguiſh 'em from Chriſtians.

Avignon had formerly a ſtately Bridge over the Rhone, but the rapidneſs of the Stream has carried away a good part of it. The Pope keeps an Italian Garriſon in it, and they keep a Guard as exact there as in the expos'd Frontier Towns in Time of War. They are not contented to examine all ſtrangers that come into the Town, to know where they lodge, and to direct people that are not acquainted with the Town what Inns to go to, but in the Night time they viſit all thoſe parts where the new comers lodge, and tell how many perſons lye in every Bed, which ſometimes ſurprizes thoſe that are ignorant of the Cuſtom.

The Univerſity of Avignon, founded in 1391. was formerly more famous then now it is. I ſhall not undertake to deſcribe all the Tombs and Reliques that are to be ſeen in moſt parts of the Churches; which would carry me too far. Nor have I ſeen any thing there more remarkable then the Fountain of Daucluſe, which dividing it ſelf about ten or twelve paces from the ſource of it, forms a moſt delightful Iſland and a Navigable River. There, are alſo to be ſeen the Houſes of Petrach and Laura his Miſtreſs.

Orange is the Capital of a little Province of the ſame name, not above three Leagues broad and four in length. This Principality depending upon the County of Provence, fell long ſince to the Counts of Naſſau, by the Marriage of Claudia de Chalons with Henry of Naſſau.

This City had not long ſince a Caſtle belonging to it, which was lookt upon to be one of the ſtrongeſt Caſtles in France: it had a Well digg'd into the ſolid Rock above thirty fathom deep, and a ſubterranean paſſage that led from the Caſtle to a Houſe of Pleaſure about half a league diſtant. But the Caſtle was raz'd and the City diſmantl'd about twenty years ſince by the King of France, out of a particular enmity to the Prince of Orange under pretence that it ſerv'd as a Refuge for the Proteſtants that were Dragoon'd out of France.

However it affords very beautiful Pieces of Antiquity, and among the reſt the Circus which is very ſpacious, with a Pavement of Moſaick work in a low Chamber or Room of State; a Triumphal Arch Erected in Honour of Marius and Lacturius, Conſuls of Rome after the Victory which they obtain'd over the Cimbrians and Teutons. This edifice which is commonly call'd the Tower of the Arch, was formerly in the middle of the City: afterwards it came to be one of the Gates of the City; but now ſtands a good quarter of a League from it. Which ſhews that Orange was in ancient Time a very large and beautiful City. When you are at the top of this Tower, you may ſee all at once five Provinces of France, Provence, the Dauphinate, Languedoc, Auvergne and Foreſt.

Tho' this City ſtill enjoys a Parliament, and an Univerſity for Law, Phyſick and Sciences, founded by Raimond V. Prince of Orange in the year 1365. it may be truely ſaid that there is nothing now left, but the ſad remainders of the former Grandeur and Magnificence, which formerly rendered it conſiderable. There is only the goodneſs of the Soil which never alters: for it produces generally whatever is neceſſary for humane Life; and all the High-ways are border'd with white Mulberry Trees that nouriſh an Infinite number

of Silk-worms, which are a good part of the Wealth of the Inhabitants.

CHAP. V. Of the Dauphinate and Vivarez.

THE Dauphinate is one of the moſt beautiful Provinces of France: Hiſtorians ſpeak wonders of it; and as ſuch, they obſerve ſeven things extreamly remarkable, which they call the ſeven Wonders of the Dauphinate; that is to ſay, the Tower without Poiſon, the Inacceſſible Mountain, the Burning Fountain, the Caves of Saſſenage; the pretious Stones of the Mountain of Saſſenage. The Manna of Brianſon, and the Grove of our Lady de la Balme.

'Tis commonly divided into the Upper and Lower, and is bounded eaſtward by Piemont and Savoy; to the South by Provence; northward by la Breſs, and to the weſt by the County of Venaiſſin. The ſterility of the Mountains of the Upper Dauphinate is not ſo bad, but that they afford great quantities of Caſſia, Manna, Turpentine and Agaric. But the Lower Dauphinate beſtows in a bundance upon the Inhabitants Wine, Corn, Silk and all ſorts of Fruit. The People in general are ſtout, civil and courteous to Strangers: which Civility extends even to the moſt ruſtical Peaſants: for it is a common thing to ſee a Ploughman leave his Plough to put a Stranger in the right Road, when he has loſt his way.

Hiſtorians have always character'd the Dauphinois to be faithful to their King; jealous of their Liberty; ſomewhat given to litigious petty-fogging, and inclin'd to praiſe themſelves. Nevertheleſs, the learned Mr. Richelet has not done 'em all this juſtice in his Dictionary; perhaps becauſe he would make the Province ſuffer for the injury which ſome Dauphinois might have done him.

This Province is not ſo much celebrated by all thoſe Advantages which I have recounted, as for the Honour which it has of being the Title born by the Eldeſt Son of France and preſumptive Heir of the Crown. They who know not why the Dauphinate enjoys this Honour before any of the Provinces of France, may here be inform'd in few words.

Hubert II. Soveraign Prince of the Dauphinate, having but one only Son, at that time very young, and being at his Caſtle of Vienne, took him in his Arms to play with him, and making a ſhew as if he would throw him out of the Window, the Infant being a brisk lively child, ſlipt out of his Hands and fell into the Rhone; nor did the unfortunate Father ever hear more of him. His Grief was ſuch as is not to be imagin'd: and his deſpair tranſported him ſo far as to make a Donation of the Dauphinate to Philip Valois King of France, in the year 1349. upon condition, among other things, that the Firſt born Son of the Kings of France, for the time to come ſhould be call'd Dauphins.

Grenoble is the Capital City of the Province, ſeated among the Mountains upon the Banks of the River Iſere, which divides the City into two parts. It is the Seat of a Parliament, a Chamber of Accounts, or place for the publick Receipt of the Finances, a Generality, a Baillage, a Mint, and a Biſhoprick. It is adorn'd with Magnificent Buildings, of which the principal are the Palace of the Duke de L'Ediguieres, the Biſhops Manſion, and the Parlament Houſe. The Prelates of this Dioceſs aſſume the Title of Prince, by reaſon of ſeveral Donations of the Lords of the Country at ſeveral times.

There are ſome things in the Parts about Grenoble, worthy the curious obſervation of Travellers; chiefly the ſpatious Charter-houſe, which is uſually the Reſidence of the General of that Order. Never was Deſert better baptiz'd then this Nook which thoſe Monks have made choice of for their place of Retirement: for indeed the Mountain has ſomething of a dreadful Aſpect. But when you come to the Convent, you are preſently ſurpriz'd to meet with ſo goodly a Manſion, ſo magnificent a Church, and Monks ſo civil and courteous, where you thought to find nothing but Precipices and Wild Beaſts.

The Order of the Chartreux was founded in 1084 by St. Bruno, who was the firſt General of it. The Air is very healthy, the top of the Mountain Fertile; and in a word it may be ſaid, that a Man is amply recompens'd for the trouble and dread in clambring up, which redoubles when you are about to quit that delightful ſolitude; the deſcent being worſe then the aſcent, and much more terrible.

Among the wonders that environ Grenoble, the burning Fountain is not the leaſt conſiderable, which darts forth Flames through the Water a foot high; whither the young Men and Virgins go frequently to make Fricaſſees, and fry Pancakes. Not far from thence is to be ſeen a Tower where no venomous Creature will live; and they which are ſometimes brought thither dye preſently after.

Valence is the ſecond City of the Dauphinate, and much better ſcituated then Grenoble, as being ſeated on the Banks of the Rhone, and upon the High Road from Paris to Marſeilles. It is adorn'd with a Biſhoprick, and a Univerſity for Law and Phyſick; founded by Lewis the Dauphin, Son of Charles VII. in the year 1452. who confirm'd the Priviledges it enjoys, in the year 1475. when he came to the Crown. It is alſo the Seat of a Preſidial-court and a Seneſchalſhip.

There is to be ſeen in the Church of the Jacobins the Body of a Giant fifteen foot high, and ſeven in breadth, ſome of the Bones of which were carri'd to Paris where they are preſerv'd in the Kings Cloſet. There is a Fountain without the City very hot in the Winter, and extreamly cold in the Summer. The principal Churches are the Cathedral dedicated to St. Apollinaris; St. Johns which is ſaid to have been a Pantheon in ancient time, the Abby of St. Ruff, and St. Peters Church in the Burrough Les-valence, in which is to be ſeen a Cavern which 'tis ſaid croſſes under the Rhone, near to which ſtands a Sepulchre, wherein formerly was found the Body of a Woman cover'd with Gold and Precious Stones, which appear'd to be freſh, but ſo ſoon as it was brought into the Air, crumbl'd to duſt. There was alſo found in the ſame Tomb a Latin Inſcription in theſe words, The Happy Juſtina Mother; whence ſome infer, that it was the Empreſs Juſtina's Tomb. Near St. Felix's Gate there is alſo a Round Tower which leans forward more at the top then below; and moſt people believe that the Tower bow'd out of reſpect when St. Felix enter'd the City.

Pont St. Eſprit, or The Holy Ghoſt's Bridge, is a very pleaſant City that derives its name from a Bridge built over the Rhone with extraordinary labour and expence. It conſiſts of two and twenty Arches twelve hundred Fathom long, and fifteen broad; ſo that it may not be vainly lookt upon to be one of the largeſt and moſt beautiful Bridges in France.

The Dauphinate includes ſeveral other Cities which have their particular Ornaments and Beauties, as Montelimar, Cret, Die, Gap, Ambrun and Vienne, which is the firſt City you meet with, as you enter into the Dauphinate through Lionnois. It was formerly inhabited by the Allobroges; at what time Le Viennois was call'd the Iſland of the Allobroges as being ſcituated between the Rhone and the Iſere.

At Vienne they make the Blades of Swords in ſuch vaſt numbers, that 'tis the wonder of all people, how the Artificers can ſell 'em ſo cheap. But the reaſon is, becauſe their Engins are ſo diſpos'd as to be mov'd by the Water, and that in ſuch a manner, that one workman can attend ſeveral ſorts of Workmanſhip at one time Pilate was baniſh'd to Vienne by the Emperor Tiberius; There is alſo to be ſeen the Tower where he was kept a Priſoner; and the Precipice from whence he threw himſelf Headlong, which is always cover'd with Clouds and Miſts. Vienne had formerly two Caſtles belongit to it which were accounted impregnable; but they were demoliſh'd, for fear they might prove a Recepticle for ſuch as had a deſign to diſturb the State.

Die, or Diva Auguſta, ſeated upon the Drome among the Mountains, with a Biſhoprick, ſuffragan to the Archbiſhop of Vienne. It was one of the nineteen principal Cities of the antient Vocantis mention'd by Tacitus, and once a Colony of the Romans.

Gap lyes two leagues from Durance with a Baileage, a Biſhoprick, a ſtrong Cittadel, and the Fort of Puymore. But neither the Cittadel nor the Fort could hinder it from being ruin'd by the Duke of Savoys Army in the year 1692.

Ambrun is a Biſhops See, and lyes among the Mountains at the Foot of a Rock upon which ſtands a Caſtle. This City is ſaid to ſtand the higheſt of any City of Europe. It is a Town of great antiquity; and 'tis ſaid that Nero granted the Citizens of it the right of Latinity, which Galba afterwards enlarg'd with new Priviledges. In the year 1692. it was taken by the Duke of Savoy, but quitted the ſame year, after every thing was demoliſh'd that render'd it Tenable.

Before I leave the Dauphinate, it behoves me to make one Obſervation not unacceptable to the Curious, of a peculiar Wind that blows at Nyons, ſix leagues from Orange. It is call'd the Wind Pontius, from the name of the Mountain whence it comes. Nyons is ſeated in a Bottom, upon the bank of a River call'd Egue, where there is a Bridge with one only Arch, accounted the moſt beautiful in the World. It is ſaid to be a Piece of Roman workmanſhip, round like the Letter O, and to be as deep from the Foundation under Ground as above. And indeed, altho it be of a Prodigious heighth, yet there appears but the half of the Circle above Ground. And I have heard the People of the place aver, that when they have gone to ſearch for the Foundation, they could never find any. But they perceiv'd, that ſtill the lower they digg'd, the narrower the circle contracted.

As to the Wind of Pontius, it uſually blows from Midnight till ten or eleven a Clock in the Morning, and it is almoſt as cold as the North-wind. It iſſues out of the Cleft of a Rock, about a ſmall League from Nyons near a Hermitage. Into this cleft the people have often thrown Stones, and let down a Sounding Line, but could never reach the Bottom. Nor is the Wind ſo violent in this part, as about a quarter of a League from thence. Now in regard the cleft is not very wide, it was ſtopt up toward the end of the laſt Age, and ſo it remain'd for ſeven or eight years; but then they were forc'd to open it again, in regard the Earth ſurceas'd to bear, the Olive Trees, Vines, and other Fruit Trees wither'd, ſo that their Autumnal Harveſts were very Barren, and the Inhabitants were ſeiz'd with Contagious Diſeaſes, which cauſed a great Mortality among 'em.

As for Vivarez, it being a Province very Mountainous and Barren, Travellours take no pleaſure in it; unleſs it be at Viviers, which is the Capital City of it, and the See of a Biſhop. You may alſo viſit Annonay, where the Gentry are very Civil and Courteous; but where the Common People make it no ſcruple of Conſcience to diſcharge their Fuſee's upon you from behind a Hedge upon any ſlight occaſion.

CHAP. VI. Of Savoy and part of Piedmont.

SInce the King has brought Savoy, the County of Nice, and ſome part of Piedmont under his Subjection, 'tis requiſite that I ſay ſomething of thoſe Parts, before I engage farther into France. Chamberi is the Capital City of Savoy, and the Seat of a Parlament, but the King of France being deſirous to extend his Conqueſts this way, having this Wind of Victory in his Poop, firſt made himſelf Maſter of this City: after which, the County and City of Nice and Villa Franca which was call'd the Bulwark of the Mediterranean, were forc'd to acknowledge the Dominion of France, under pretence that Nice was formerly a part of Provence. Not long after the Fortreſs of Montmelian, which the Savoyards accounted Impregnable was likewiſe carry'd by the French, and then they took and burnt Oneglia, the only remaining Sea Port Town in Savoy. The Fortifications of all theſe Towns are very Regular, and the Churches very Beautiful.

Beſides theſe places, the King of France has Pignerol ſeated upon a Mountain of the Valley of Perouſa, five leagues from Turin. The other is Caſal the Capital City of Montferrat, upon the River Po, which the Duke of Mantoua ſurrender'd to the King in 1681. Theſe two Towns are very conſiderable in reſpect of their ſtrength and ſcituation, in regard they ſecure France from the Invaſions of the Princes of Italy, and open him a paſſage, when he ſhall be at leiſure to look that way. But in regard I propoſe to my ſelf a particular Volume of Italy, I omit here ſeveral remarks more proper for that Tome, then this of France.

CHAP. VII. Of Languedoc.

THere is no Province of France ſo vaſt in the extent of it as Languedoc. Eaſtward, it is bounded by the River Rhone, which parts it from the Dauphinate and Lorrain; to the South, by the Mediterranean and the Pyreneans; by the Garonne, to the Weſt; and to the North by Rouergne and Quercy. The Climate is accounted the beſt in the Kingdom, and the Soil is the moſt Fertile; inſomuch that it produces whatever is to be found in all the other parts of the World except Spices, your rich Gums and Sugar. The People are character'd to be very witty, much addicted to Study, and to appear often in their Accoutrements what they are not. They are accus'd of being great Talkers, very inconſtant, and unfit to keep a ſecret. Their Women are wanton and frolickſome, much given to Paint, and love a greater liberty then becomes their Sex. However theſe Rules are not ſo general, but that they admit of many exceptions: and they that are not ſtain'd with theſe defects, need not concern themſelves with common fame; and as for others if they are ſo happy to amend 'em, People of Vertue will always do 'em Juſtice.

Tholouſe is the Capital City of this beautiful and ſpacious Province, ſeated upon the Garonne; and ſo antient, that 'tis ſaid, that Tholo, one of the Sons of Japhet was the Founder of it. Certain it is however that when the Romans Invaded the Gauls they found Tholouſe to be a very conſiderable City, and therefore beautify'd it with a Capitol, Amphitheaters, and Aqueducts, the Remainders of which, beſides her Churches and other Structures are ſufficient Teſtimonies of her Antiquity. Afterwards it was the Metropolis of the Kingdom of the Viſigoths, and after that, of the Kingdom of Aquitain.

It is the ſeat of a Famous Parlament, an Arch-biſhoprick, a Generality, a Chamber of Accounts, and a Univerſity. The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Stephen; and that of St. Saturnin is a beautiful Pile; where 'tis ſaid they have the Bodies of no leſs then ſeven of the Apoſtles, and one of the Thorns of our Saviour's Crown. There is a vaſt Treaſure which could never be taken away, whether it be by reaſon of the noiſomneſs of the Water, or whether it be guarded, as they ſay, by Prodigious Serpents that threaten to devour all thoſe that diſturb their Reſt. However it were, Hiſtory tells us, that the Gauls making War with the Inhabitants of Delphos brought away vaſt Riches: and that the ſhare of the Tectoſages, who inhabited Languedoc, came to a hundred and ten thouſand pound weight in Gold, and five millions of pounds weight in Silver: that their Prieſts enforc'd 'em to throw the Riches into the Lake of Tholouſe, whence Cepio, the Roman Conſul caus'd it to be carri'd away, ſometime after, having put the Lake to Sale by Outcry: and there is ſome reaſon to believe that a great deal of it might be left behind; but I am not certain whether it lies in that part where the Church of St. Saturnin is built.

In the Church of the Obſervantin Friers is a Vault which conſumes the Fleſh of Dead Bodies without hurting the Skin, or Diſlocating their Members. In the Church of the Jacobins is to be ſeen a Pillar that ſupports after a wonderful manner five or ſix Vaults one above another: I forbear to mention the reſt of their Monaſteries, in ſome of which there are ſeveral Reliques and Curioſities.

The Univerſity of Tholouſe is accountted one of the moſt famous in Europe, except the two Univerſities in England, and the ſecond in France; for which reaſon perhaps it was that Auſonius calls it the City of Pallas, and that it generally bears the Epithete of Tholouſe la Savante, or Tholouſe the Learned.

Castres is another very antient City of Languedoc with a Biſhoprick. Lavaur, Pamiers, a Biſhops See, Mirepoix, a Biſhops See, and ſome other Cities in the Parts adjoining are very pleaſant places, where the People feaſt and make good chear at a cheap rate; which is the reaſon that 'tis a common ſaying among 'em that they have more good Victuals then Money.

Carcaſſon is commanded by a Cittadel which is very ſtrong, both by reaſon of the ſcituation of it and the Works about it; and before you enter into it you muſt leave your Sword at the Gate. The City is conſiderable for the Woollen Manufactures, for the neatneſs and uniformity of the Streets, and the ſweet temper and civility of the Inhabitants.

We muſt not remove far from Languedoc without viſiting Perpignan in Rouſſillon, where the Men go after the French Faſhion; and the Women after the Spaniſh Mode. The Cittadel is compos'd of Five Baſtions, commanded by a Fort which is call'd the Donjon. Some Leagues from thence, you meet with a Fountain of Salt Water, which ſprings out of a Rock in ſuch abundance, that about ſix or ſeven Paces from thence it forms a River, over which there is built a Bridge of ſeveral Arches.

Narbonne diſputes the Point of Antiquity with all the other Cities of France; for they pretend that Narbo, K. of the Country was the Founder of it, long before the Birth of Chriſt. But that which we find moſt certain is, that it was in great Requeſt in the time of the Romans, who grac'd it with a Capitol and an Amphitheater, erected Municipal Schools within it, adorn'd it with a Bath and Aqueducts, and all the marks of Roman Grandeur, as being the Seat of the Proconſuls, and their firſt Colony out of Italy in Europe; in acknowledgment of which Favours, the Inhabitants ſet up a Statue to Auguſtus: So that Rome and Narbonne were leagu'd to each other under the Title of Siſters; and 'tis ſaid, that the Sympathy between 'em was ſo great, that in the Year 145. Rome and Narbonne were afflicted both at the ſame time with a dreadful Conflagration that happen'd by Accident. But the greateſt part of the Roman Antiquities were ruin'd by the Goths and Vandals. This, being a Frontier Town, is regularly fortifi'd; and the Canal of Conjunction between the two Seas, a Royal Undertaking, becoming a great Prince, derives the beginning of it from Narbonne. It is the Seat of an Archbiſhoprick; and the Archbiſhop is Primate of the Province, Preſident born of the States of Languedoc, and dignifi'd with the Title of Lord of the Sea.

Bezieres, is a City not far diſtant from Narbonne, ſeated upon a Hill, the Avenues to which are ſomewhat difficult. It is both Large and Ancient, and greatly valu'd by the Romans, who erected there two famous Temples to Auguſtus and Julia. It is ſtill one of the moſt Delightful Places of Abode in France. Inſomuch, that the beauty of the place, and the fertility of the ſoil, have begot a Proverb among the People of the Country, Que ſi Dieu habitoit ſur la Terre, il choiſiroit Bezieres pour ſa Sejour. That if God were to live upon the Earth, he would make choice of Bezieres for his Place of Reſidence.

The City of Peſenas is no leſs pleaſant, and the Inhabitants are much more civil and courteous: and no queſtion but the Reſidence of ſeveral Princes there from time to time, as the late Prince of Conti deceas'd, and Monſieur de Montmoranci, contributed not a little to infuſe into 'em the Air of the Court.

Though I ſhall end this Chapter with the Cities of Montpellier and Nimes, 'tis not becauſe they are leſs conſiderable: the contrary rather may be ſaid, that Travellers tarry longer at Montpellier, then in any other City of Languedoc, by reaſon of the Variety of Divertiſements which they meet with in the Place, good Chear, good Company, Familiarity, Galantry, and Learning; all which Advantages they meet with there in a Superlative Degree.

The Univerſity is accounted the moſt famous for Phyſick in all France. And it is to be obſerv'd that no Dr. in that Faculty is to be admitted, till he has firſt receiv'd ſeven times the Robe and Bonnet of Rabelais in the Caſtle of Monac. In ſuch Veneration is that Doctor among thoſe that govern this Academy. The reaſon of it is this.

The Scholars having committed ſome Diſorders in the City, which occaſion'd Complaints againſt the Univerſity at Court, they were depriv'd of ſome part of their Liberties▪ and Privileges. Rabelais, who had been a Monk, and was a perſon of a Luxuriant Wit, being then at Montpellier, could not chooſe but participate of the Trouble the Academians were in when they heard the News. What does he do, but goes to Paris, and preſents himſelf at the Chancellor du Pratt's Houſe? The Swiſs, who took him for a Fool, ask'd him, what his Buſineſs was? To which Rabelais anſwer'd him in Latin. Upon which, the Swiſs not underſtanding a word he ſaid, call'd for one of the Chancellor's Officers, who underſtood the Language; which Rabelais finding out, anſwer'd him in Greek: With that they brought him a perſon that underſtood Greek perfectly well; but to him the Doctor ſpoke Hebrew: and if they talk'd to him in Hebrew, he anſwer'd in Syriack or Arabick, &c. So that having puzzl'd and exhauſted all the Learning in the Chancellors Houſe, the Chancellor deſir'd to ſee him himſelf: at what time having Harangu'd him in favour of the Students of Montpellier, he obtain'd the Reſtoration of the Privileges that had been taken from 'em. This Rabelais was made Curate of Meudon, and dy'd at Paris in 1553. and being a Man of ſuch a pleaſant Humour, this Epitaph was made upon him:

Pluto, Prince of Shades Infernall, Where ſad Souls ne're laugh, but burn all, Be kind to Rablais, and they'll all Fall a laughing, great and ſmall.

Near the Convent of the Cordeleers, there is to be ſeen a Lake full of Frogs that have never been heard to make a Noiſe, as the people of the County ſay, ſince St. Anthony of Padua, being interrupted by 'em in his Prayers and Meditations, commanded 'em to be Silent; and 'tis obſerv'd, that if you take any of thoſe that make moſt noiſe in other places, and put 'em into this Lake they preſently become as Mute as Fiſh. On the other ſide, if you take 'em out of this Lake and put 'em in another place, they ſhall be the firſt that ſhall fall a Croaking and the loudeſt in the Conſort of Paddocks. Pliny recites the ſame thing of the Frogs in the Iſland of Seriphos in the Archipelago. The City it ſelf is very Ancient, commanded by a Cittadel with fair and royal Baſtions, and is the Seat of a Biſhop Suffragan to Narbonne, a Preſidial Court, and a Seneſchalſhip, a Court of Aids, a Chamber of the Finances, &c. without the Town is to be ſeen the Royal Phyſick-Garden, ſtor'd with Curioſities in abundance.

Nimes is a very fair City, & where the Inhabitants, were they not ſuch great Talkers, and leſs Malapert, would be very good Company. The City is very Ancient; for they affirm, that Nemauſus the Son of Hercules was the Founder of it, and gave it his own Name as being call'd in Latin Nemauſis or Nemauſus. It was formerly much more ſpatious then it is, as including within it ſeven Hills like Old Rome, and the Walls were fortify'd with a Thouſand Towers.

Among the moſt remarkable Pieces of Antiquity we muſt reckon the Amphitheater erected by the Emperor Antoninus, Four hundred and ſeventy Paces in compaſs. There are alſo to be ſeen two Gladiators cut in Stone; the Wolf that ſuckl'd Romulus and Remus, and the Vultures that appear'd to thoſe two Founders of Rome.

There is likewiſe to be ſeen at Nimes, a Cavern that runs under-ground as far as Arles: for it was the Cuſtom of the Romans to have in ſeveral parts ſuch ſubterraneal Communications between one City and the other. In the Neighborhood alſo appears a very Curious Piece of Roman Workmanſhip; that is to ſay, Three Bridges one above another; the loweſt of ſix Arches; the ſecond of two; and the third of thirty: ſo that the whole Structure may be about Fourſcore and two foot high. This Bridge is call'd Pont du Gard.

I ſhall ſay nothing of the Grotto's, the Garden of St. Privat, or of the great number of Curious Statues; only I may add this in ſhort, that this City is an Epitome of the Roman Antiquities: and give me leave to inſert this one thing more, that without the City ſome Remainders of a Building are to be ſeen, which is ſaid to have been a Temple of Diana, and that the Fountain of Veſta, which is near it, was famous heretofore, becauſe the Water was made uſe of to Purifie the Veſtal Nuns.

The City is a Town of great Trade, & there are made in it great Quantities of Woollen Stuffs. It is alſo the Seat of Biſhop, a Seneſchalſhip, and a Preſidial Court.

CHAP. VIII. Of Guien and Gaſcoignie.

MAny People under the Name of Gaſcognie, comprehend all the Provinces that lye beyond Lion; as the Dauphinate, Provence and Languedoc; whereas Gaſcognie is no more then a ſmall Province included with in Guienne.

The Garonne contributes not a little to enrich this Province; it receives the Merchandizes which Forreign Veſſels import, and carries away the Wines and other Commodities of the Country.

The People are look'd upon to be a little Inſolent, exceſſive Boaſters, and ſomewhat given to Thieving. But the Rule is not without Exceptions, for there are as vertuous People among 'em as in other places, and free-hearted beyond compare. They are the beſt Souldiers in France, eſpecially after they have had a Campagne or two i' their Bellies; and the Souldiers from the Neighbouring Provinces are as good as they: Their Train'd-Bands have made themſelves ſufficiently known in Piedmont and Catalogna theſe laſt Years.

Bourdeaux is the moſt conſiderable City of this Province, as being the ſeat of a Venerable Parliament, an Archbiſhoprick, and a famous Univerſity for the Civil and Canon-Law, founded by Eugenius IV. and Lewis X. in 1473. It affords very beautiful Pieces of Antiquity; among the reſt the Statue of Jupiter, and that of the Emperour Adrian, which a Counſellor of the City has got into his Study. The Hollow-Stones that lye at St. Severin's, are very much worth Obſervation; in regard they are full or empty of Water, as the Moon is either at the Full, or in her Wain. Lewis XIV. has not a little contributed to make this City conſiderable by the Caſtle Trompette, which he built for the Defence of the Haven, which by means of the Garonne, receives the biggeſt of Merchants Veſſels, that bring great Wealth to the City. Some Years ſince the Parlament of Bourdeaux was remov'd to Reaule, which did a great Injury to the City, diſcontented the Members of that Venerable Body; but brought great Advantages and Profit to that little Borough.

There are an Infinite Number of other Cities in Guyenne, and the parts adjoyning, where Travellers may meet with a Thouſand▪ pleaſing Objects; as Cadillac, Baza, Bayonne, St. Jean de Luz, &c. But I leave thoſe that have ſeen 'em, or have a mind to viſit 'em, to judge of their Beauty.

CHAP. IX. Of Xaintonge and Angoumois.

I Join theſe two Provinces together, firſt, becauſe they both give their names to the Capital Cities, and are very near under the ſame Climate; and ſecondly becauſe the Remarks which I have made upon each in particular, being added together, will afford matter but for a very ſmall Chapter.

Xaintes, ſeated upon the Banks of the Charante, is beautify'd with many marks of Antiquity. The Bridge over the River makes it evident by a Latin Inſcription that it was built by Caeſar; upon which are alſo to be ſeen the remains of a Triumphal Arch. The Church of St. Peters, which was the one and twentieth of thoſe that Charlemaign caus'd to be built was ruin'd in the laſt Civil Wars. Nor is it leſs remarkable for the remains of an Amphitheater and ſeveral Aqueducts, and divers other Monuments of Roman Antiquity. It is alſo a Biſhops See, and the Seat of a Preſidial Court. 'Tis likewiſe obſerv'd that the Water of the River Charante keeps much longer ſweet at Sea, then the Water of other Rivers.

There are alſo ſeveral other fair Cities in Xaintoigne, as Coignac, Tonnay, and Brouage; famous for the Salt-pits adjoyning to it. At the Mouth of the Sea, which is call'd the Sea of Bourdeaux, ſtands a Tower built upon a Rock, which ſerves as a Pharos or Land mark to direct Ships that Sail upon that Coaſt. It is call'd the Tower of Cordouan; and we are aſſur'd, that it is much higher and more beautiful then the Pharos of Alexandria.

Blaye, built upon the River ſide, is conſiderable for the Fortifications which hinder the Entrance of any Enemies Ships into the Harbour. There is alſo to be ſeen the Sepulchre of Charibert King of Paris, the Eldeſt Son of Clotaire the Firſt.

The County of Xantoigne is very fertile in Corn, Wine, Paſturage, Saffron, &c. greatly ſtor'd with Fiſh, and abounding in Roman, or Pontic Wormwood; and it is a common Proverb among the People of the Country, That if France were an Egg, Xantoigne would be the Yolk.

Though the City of Angouleſm be ſeated upon a Rock at the top of a Mountain, yet there is a Cittadel alſo built for the better Defence of it: Which alſo ſerves for a Curb upon the City it ſelf ſhould their happen any Sedition.

Two Leagues from Angouleſm, is a Fountain to be ſeen, which iſſuing out of an Abyſs, never increaſes nor diminiſhes. A certain Queen of France, being deſirous to know whence the Spring of this Fountain ſhould ariſe, order'd a Condemn'd Perſon to be let down into the Abyſs, who reported that he could ſee nothing but Dreadful Rocks and Monſtrous Fiſh, that would have devour'd him, had he not ſpeedily got out of their way. At Montmeron a Silver Mine was diſcover'd; but no-body was ever ſet to work in it. The reaſon of which I believe to be, becauſe Nature has furniſh'd it with ſo ſmall a quantity of that Metal, that the Mine will not afford Ore enough to Pay the Workmen.

The People of Xantoigne are lookt on to be very Witty, and more Courageous. Thoſe of Angouleſm are no leſs Warlike, and love to live like Gentlemen; but the Common People are Clowns and Brutes.

CHAP. X. Of Limoſin and Perigort.

THE City of Limoges, is the Capital of Limoſin; remarkable for ſeveral Monuments of Antiquity, and for three Councils held there in the Years 1029. 1031. and 1182. There are alſo to be ſeen ſeveral Aqueducts built by the Romans, Three Churches, and a great Number of Monaſteries. 'Tis alſo the ſeat of a Preſidial Court, and an Audit for the King's Finances. Nor are Travellers to paſs through it, without ſeeing the Artificers for Enamelling, wherein they are ſo perfect in this City, that there is not better Workmanſhip of that ſort in any part of the World: and going to Ʋſſel you ſee 'em no leſs buſily employ'd in making of falſe Diamonds. The other moſt conſiderable Cities of Limoſin, are Gueret, Tulle Brive, Ʋſerche, a very Strong Hold, Roche Abeille, famous for the great Battel there fought in 1569. Chalos, noted for the Horſe-Fairs there kept, Aines, Aimotier, &c.

Though Perigort be Stony and Mountainous, yet the Inhabitants are well enough contented with their Condition. For the vaſt Number of Cheſnuts which grow in this County, not only ſerve 'em for the Nouriſhment of their Families, but to fatten their Hoggs; Beſides, that it is well ſtor'd with Medicinal Waters, and Iron Mines.

Periguex is the Capital City of this Province; ſo very Ancient, that ſome ſcruple not to affirm it to have been built by one of the Sons of Noah. But others from the Name of Veſuna, which the Ancients gave it, derive the Name of it from Venus, who was formerly worſhipt in this City; where there are ſtill to be ſeen the Ruins of a Temple dedicated to that Goddeſs, with ſeveral other Antiquities. The Fountain of Marlac, not far off from Periguex, ought to be viſited, for the Ebbing and Flowing of the Waters that ſupply it. Which contributes not a little to confirm the Opinion of thoſe who ſay, that Periguex is built upon a floating piece of Ground. Some Years ago, there was a Well in the Great Market-Place ſtopt up, which was thought to be an Abyſs, in regard that ſeveral People being let down, could could never find a Bottom; only they reported upon their coming up again, that they ſaw a large Plain cover'd with Water. It may be ſome may put the Queſtion, whence thoſe People had ſo much light as to make ſuch a Diſcovery? To which I ſhall anſwer according as they told me, that it was from other Wells of the City, and parts thereabout, which let the light into that Subterraneal Sea, and by floating Lanthorns which they drove before 'em with Engines.

Beſides there are few Houſes in the City, but the owners if they dig never ſo little in their Cellars, preſently meet with Water, which by the weight, the taſte, and other marks, ſeems to be the ſame with that of the Well which was ſtopt up, becauſe the Harlots were wont to throw their Children into it.

Two Leagues from the City there is another Fountain, the Water of which changes it ſelf into Stones of what form you pleaſe. But among the moſt remarkable things, there is a Cavern near Miramont, which is call'd Cluſeau, which extends it ſelf five or ſix Leagues under Ground, wherein are to be found Apartments pav'd with Moſaic Work, Altars adorn'd with beautiful Pictures, Fountains, and a River ſix and twenty foot broad, and beyond that, as they ſay, there is a vaſt Plain or Champian Country, where no body yet durſt be ſo bold as to plant any Colonies.

In the Abby of Cadouan at Sarlat is to be ſeen a Sacred Napkin or rather Winding Sheet, wherein they affirm that the Body of Chriſt was wrapt when he was put into the Sepulchre of Joſeph of Arimathea. Libourne, upon the Banks of the Dordogne, is a pleaſant City, to which that River Ebbing and Flowing brings up Veſſels of a Conſiderable bigneſs. But there is one thing very extraordinary, nor do I know that there is any other like it in the World, which is, that from time to time there runs from the Sea a Whirling Eddy of Water, about the quantity of a Tunn, which without being driven by the Force of violent Guſts of Wind, rowls up the River with ſuch an Impetuous fury as would overturn the biggeſt Ships, if they ſtood in the way of it; but in regard the terrible noiſe it makes, may be heard three Leagues off, and for that they know this Whirling Eddy which they call Macanet, always keeps along by the Shoar, the Veſſels remove to the middle of the River; and by an Inſtinct no leſs worthy of Admiration, the Wild Ducks and Swans, no ſooner hear the noiſe but they make haſte to the Land, to ſecure themſelves from the Rowling Waves.

CHAP. XI. Of Querci, and Rouergne.

QƲerci cannot chuſe but be a very fertile Country, as being water'd by the Garonne, the Dordogne, and the Tarr, which are three Navigable Rivers. There are ſaid to be Mines both of Gold and Silver in it; but the Inhabitants take little or no care to look after 'em; no queſtion becauſe they have plenty of Corn, Wine, Prunes, Saffran and Paſtorage, that will fetch Gold and Silver without the pains of Digging and Delving. The Common People are Boariſh, but the Gentry and Nobility very Civil.

Cahors is the Capital City of Querci where the Amphitheater, the Bridges and the Towers are infallible proofs of the Antiquity of it. Pope John XXII. a great diſturber of the peace of Europe, was born at Cahors, and founded there a Univerſity for the Common Law in 1332. Wherein he ſhew'd more love to the place of his Nativity then to all the World beſides. It is alſo a Biſhops See which is ſaid to bring in the greateſt Profit of any other in France. The Cathedral Church is dedicated to St. Steven, and was Conſecrated by St. Martral. There are alſo in it ſeveral other Churches and Monaſteries and a Colledge of Jeſuits, ever ſince the year 1605. 'Tis alſo the Seat of a Preſidial Court, from whence Judgments are carry'd by appeal to the Parliament of Tholouſe.

Part of the Dioceſs of Montaubon is ſeated in Languedoc, and therefore the Biſhops have a ſeat in the Dioceſs of that Province. The Hugonots made themſelves Maſters of it in 1562. and fortify'd it ſo well that it held out three ſeveral Seiges; but at length it was ſnbdu'd in the year 1592. and becauſe it ſhould be no more a refuge for Revolt, the Fortifications were laid level with the Ground.

Moiſſac is another City of Querci, ſeated as well as Montauban upon the River Tarr. It was taken from the Romans by the Goths, and from them by K. Clovis. After that Gaiger Duke of Aquitain took it, and from him it was retaken by K. Pepin in 1212. The Engliſh utterly ruin'd it. However afterwards it came to be conſiderable again; but it will hardly recover the ill uſage it receiv'd from the Hugonots in the Civil Wars. A traveller will find little conſiderable in Rouergne except the Steeple of the Cathedral of Rodez, which is lookt upon to be the higheſt and the beſt wrought Piece of Architecture in France. The City of Rodez is very ancient but has loſt the Antient ſplendour of it, as having been ruin'd by the Goths, Saracens and Francks, &c. however it is ſtill a Biſhops See, and the Seat of a Seneſchalſhip. It formerly bore the Title of an Earldom, which was united to the Crown by Hen. IV.

In the parts adjoining to this City ſtands the Mountain of Canſeu, which Burns when it Rains: and two Leagues from thence you meet with an Abyſs, ſixty paces wide at the top, and two hunder'd deep: and by the ſide of this Abyſs is to be ſeen a hole which has no bottom.

The Quercinois are lookt upon to be very great diſſemblers; and the Perigordins to be very quarrelſome, eſpecially in their Cups.

CHAP. XII. Of Auvergne.

AƲvergne is one of the principal Provinces of France: it bears the Title of an Earldom; and is bounded to the Eaſt; by Foreſts, and Lyonnois; by Rouergne and Velai to the South; by Querci, Perigort, and Limoſin to the Weſt, and by Berry and Bourbonnois to the North. It is divided into the Upper and Lower. The Upper drives a great Trade in Cheeſe, Horſes, Cows, Mules, &c. The Lower abounds in Corn and Wine, and Trades in Tapeſtry, Bone-lace, Cloth, Knives, and other Commodities. The greateſt part of the Auvergnois are laborious, crafty, full of diſſimulation, addicted to quarrel, and very ſelf-conceited and opinionated of themſelves; ſo that if you do not give 'em their way with much compliance, a little thing will create a ſquabble.

Aurillac is the Capital City of the Upper Auvergne, which was formerly adorn'd with ſeveral fair Churches, for the moſt part ruin'd in the Civil Wars. Among the moſt remarkable things we have there to be ſeen, the Refectory of the Carmelites is reckon'd to be the chiefeſt, which much ſurpaſſes in Neatneſs, Bigneſs and Painting all the reſt of the Convent.

The Preſidial Court of Aurillac is lookt upon to be one of the ſevereſt Tribunals in the whole Kingdom.

In this Diviſion of Auvergne ſtands the Mountain Cantal, remarkable for the height of it, and for the Simples which it produces, tho it be extreamly cold; the other Mountains are alſo fertile in Paſtorages. The lower Auvergne commonly called la Limayne is not ſo wide in the extent of it as the Upper. But it is much a more pleaſant place to reſide in. The ſoil is more fertile, and the Inhabitants are more Civil and Sociable. Clairmont is the Capital City of it. The Cathedral is cover'd with Lead, which the Air has purify'd to that degree, that people have offer'd a conſiderable ſumm for the Covering, and to lay on another of Lead of the ſame thickneſs; but neither would their Money be taken, nor their proffer accepted. There is in it a Fountain that turns into Stone as it falls: upon which account, ſome aver that the Bridge which is there to be ſeen was the work of this ſtrange operation of nature. It is eight fathom wide, ſix in thickneſs, and thirty ſix long: for which reaſon Charles IX. had the curioſity to ſee it. Several Councils have been held at Clairmont; among which the moſt famous was that in the year 1095. at what time by the ſollicitations of Ʋrban the II. The celebrated Croiſade was reſolv'd upon for the Conqueſt of the Holy Land. Charles the V. aſſembled the States of the Kingdom in this City. 'Tis believ'd this City was built out of the Ruins of the Ancient Gergovia, ſo highly applauded by Caeſar in his Commentaries; and where there was a Tower which could not be burnt when that City was all in Conflagration, by reaſon it was made of Larch or Larinx wood, which reſiſts Fire.

Rion famous for the Antiquity of it is ſeated upon a Hill, which renders the Situation and the Proſpect very pleaſant. The Houſes are well built, the Streets ſtraight and broad, the Churches Magnificent, the Monaſteries ſtately, the Inhabitants ſumptuous: but nothing makes the City ſo remarkable, as St. Amable's Tooth, which as they ſay, infallibly cures the bitings of mad Dogs, of Serpents or any other venemous Beaſts. In a word the Situation of the City and parts adjoining is ſo pleaſant, that it is call'd the Garden and Paradiſe of Auvergne.

This City is the ſeat of a Mareſchalſhip, a Preſidial-court, a Generality of the Finances, an Election and all the Officers of Juſtice ſit in a Palace built by John of Berry.

About a ſmall quarter of a League from Clairmont ſtands Montferrand another conſiderable City; which was the reaſon that the Marqueſs d'Effiat, would fain have had 'em join'd together under the name of Clairmont-Ferrand, but the Jealouſie of the Inhabitants ſtarted ſo many difficulties, that he could not compaſs his deſign. The Buildings are very beautiful and the Magnificence of the Churches inſpire Devotion.

Some few Leagues from Rion is to be ſeen the little City of old Brioude, remarkable for the Bridge that belongs to it conſiſting of one Arch▪ which is ſupported by two Mountains of a prodigious height. It was built by Caeſar's Order; and it is obſervable, that one Stone falling out of the Building ſome Ages ſince, could never be put again into the place from whence it fell.

Le Puy is a City very conſiderable for the largeneſs of it, the riches of it, the fertility of the ſoil, and other advantages. The great number of Reliques which are there preſerv'd draws the Devotion of the people for above ſeven or eight leagues round. But in regard the People always magnify Objects, and multiply Miracles, which the places where Reliques are depoſited, are ſeldom ſorry for, it many times happens that true Devotion is intermix'd with Superſtition. Amongſt the pretious Gages which that City preſerves, there is an Image of the Holy Virgin, of Cedarwood, which the Ignorant People ſay was made by a Prophet of the Old Teſtament that wrought Journey work under Joſeph.

The ſame ſilly People alſo give credit to what a Demoniack formerly pronounc'd in the Church of this City, that a Relique which is there preſerv'd of one of the Innocent Children which were Maſſacred by Herod was the begotten ſon of that Barbarous King.

CHAP. XIII. Of Lionnois.

LIonnois is a ſmall Province from the which Capital City derives the name of Lyon. The People are very courteous and civil to ſtrangers; their prevailing paſſion being deſire of gain, which extends their Trade to that degree, that it is call'd the Magazine of France. And it is commonly ſaid in reference to the Magnificence of Lyon, that if Paris be without her equal, Lyon has no companion. It was formerly call'd the Colony of Claudius, becauſe that Emperor was born there.

The City of Lyon, ſeated upon the Confluence of the Rhone and the Sone, is accounted one of the beſt Situated, moſt Antient, the Faireſt and one that drives the greateſt Trade in all France. It is the Seat of an Archbiſhop who is Primate of the Gauls, of a Preſidial Court, an Audit for the Kings Revenues, a Mint, a Seneſchalſhip, an Election, a Tribunal of Trade under the Title of the Conſervation of Lyon. It is ſaid to have been founded by one Lugdus, King of the Celtae, and therefore was in Latin call'd Lugdunum. Others ſay that one Momor a Prince of the Gauls built a City upon the Confluence of the Rhone and Sone by command of the Emperour, and becauſe he ſaw a flight of Crows ſettle upon a Mountain adjoining he call'd it the Lugdune or the Hill of the Crows. As for thoſe who aſſert it to have been a Colony of the Romans, 'tis a viſible Errour, in regard the Druids had held their Aſſemblies there before ever Rome was talk'd of; and the Phoenicians and Greeks had ſettl'd themſelves in it, before that Famous Republick ever ſent any Colonies into Gaul. However it were certain it is that there was an Altar in or near this City where the Orators of thoſe times diſputed for the Prizes of Eloquence, and a Sacred Grove where the Ancients offer'd up their Sacrifices. The City of Lyon is divided into thirty ſeven quarters, which are call'd Penonages, which have every one their ſeveral Captains, and other Officers. It has ſeven Gates, the Market Places and Piazza's are Magnificent, and the Buildings both Sacred and Prophane are ſumptuous. The Cathedral is dedicated to St. John, and was built upon the Ruins of the Altar which was dedicated to the Emperor Auguſtus the ſame year that the Emperour Claudius was born. The Town Houſe is one of the moſt ſuperb Structures in Europe: and among the Curioſities which are there to be ſeen, there are two Tables of Braſs, upon which are engrav'd the Speech which Claudius made to the Roman Senate to incline 'em to admit the Lionnois and other Gauls into the Senate as Citizens of Rome. The Arſenal is one of the beſt ſupply'd in France. The Archiepiſcopal Palace is very Beautiful. Pope Gregory VII. confirm'd in the year 1079. to the Archbiſhop of Lyon the Title of Primate of the Gauls. And this priviledge was adjudg'd to him by ſeveral other Pontiffs Succeſſors to Gregory. The Chapiter of Lyon is compos'd of three Churches under one and the ſame Steeple; and upon the Tolling of the ſame Bell Divine Service begins and ends in all the three Churches at the ſame Time, which are St. Johns, St. Stephans, and Holy Roods. This Chapiter has been always fill'd with perſons as well Illuſtrious for the Nobility of their Birth, as for their Learning. Five or ſix celebrated Authors have obſerv'd that in the thirteenth Age there had been known to have been Canons, one Son of an Emperour, nine Sons of a King, fourteen Sons of Dukes, thirty Sons of Counts, and Twenty Barons.

The thirteenth Oecumenical Council was aſſembl'd at Lyon by Innocent IV. in 1245. and Gregory X. celebrated another there in 1274. where he preſided himſelf And beſides theſe two Councils ſeveral other particular Councils were held in this City at different times.

The Caſtle of Pierre Aneiſe may be ſaid to have peculiar Beauties, if there be any Beauty in a Priſon. For Priſoners of Quality and Conſequence are committed to this Place: and thus the Duke of Milan was under Confinement in this Caſtle, when the French took him after his being defeated.

The Antiquity of Lion is eaſily prov'd by the Amphitheaters, Aqueducts, and old Ruins of the Palaces of ſeveral Roman Emperors who reſided in it. Without the Gate of the City is to be ſeen a Sepulchre, call'd, The Sepulchre of the two Lovers. Some will have it to be the Monument of Herod and Herodias; others, the Tomb of two Lovers, that had been long in Love together, but dy'd in the ſtate of Virginity. Before the Gate of St. Juſtus lyes a Stone of an Immenſe weight, which is plac'd in ſuch a true Equilibrium, that you may move it with one Finger.

This City is endowed with ſeveral Privileges which have been granted her by her Soveraigns from time to time; and they who have been once honour'd with the Shrievalty of Lion, are ennobl'd, both they and their Poſterity.

CHAP. XIV. Of Burgundy and Nivernois.

BƲrgundy is a Province with the Title of a Dutchy and Peerdom, though it were formerly a Kingdom; and the Title is now born by the Dauphin's eldeſt Son. This Province extends it ſelf from North to South above Fifty Leagues (not above Forty, ſays De la Croix) and Thirty from Eaſt to Weſt (Thirty two, ſays De la Croix). The Source of the River Seine, riſes in a Village of Burgundy, which is call'd St. Seine. The Burgundians are an obliging people, and love Honour; but they are naturally opinionated and obſtinate, and you muſt have a great Aſcendant over 'em to make 'em alter their Sentiments.

Dijon is the Capital of this Province; and Hiſtorians report, that the Emperour Aurelian having utterly raz'd and deſtroy'd a certain place call'd Burg-Dogne, or Burgus Deorum, was afraid of the Anger of the Gods to whom that place was Conſecrated; whereupon his Mother, Prieſteſs of the Sun, advis'd him for the Expiation of his Fault, to build a Temple and a Caſtle in the ſame place, which were the Firſt Foundations of this Capital City. It is remarkable for the Walls, which are fortify'd with Towers and Baſtions; the Caſtle flank'd with Four Great Towers, and Two Ravelins; a fair Charter-Houſe, wherein are the Stately Tombs of the Dukes of Burgundy, the Palace of Juſtice, the King's Houſe, Sixteen Churches, two Abbies, five Hoſpitals, the Town-Houſe, and for being the Place where the States of the Country meet every Three Years. This Country enriches it ſelf by her Corn and Wine, being generally call'd the Magazine of Paris. St. Bernard was Born in a Village of this Province, call'd Fontaine.

Beaune, is a very ancient City, with a Chancery and a Bailliage, ſeated advantageouſly for every thing; but moſt chiefly fruitful in delicious Wines.

Autun is alſo very Ancient, and ſome there are who derive the Etymology of the Name from Auguſtus. However it were, the Romans thought it worthy of their Friendſhip, and enter'd into an Alliance with it. The Druids held their Senate in this City. There are alſo to be ſeen the Ruins of a Temple of Juno, which they call Janitoye. And among other Antiquities, there are ſtill to be ſeen a Field of Mars, the Mount of Jupiter, and the Ruins of Triumphal Arches, Pyramids, Aqueducts, &c. The Cathedral Church, and the Epiſcopal Palace are worth the ſight of the moſt curious Travellers.

Auxerre is a very good City with an Epiſcopal See, a Preſidial Court, and a Bailliage. This City is very Ancient, and it's ſaid, that Julian the Apoſtate ſtopt here for ſome time to refreſh his Army. In the next Age, it was taken and almoſt ruin'd by Attila in the Year 451. After that, K. Robert took it in 1005. from Landri, Count of Nevers. Since which time it was govern'd by particular Counts of her own. 'Tis a very great Thorough-fare, having a Stone Bridge, Large Piazza's, ſeveral Fountains, beautiful Churches, among which, the Cathedral is very Magnificent, ſtor'd with Reliques, and adorn'd with a moſt beautiful Quire, a Steeple remarkable for the heighth of it, and a Chapter of Fifty nine Canons: but the Earldom is now united to the Crown. The Biſhop reſides in the Caſtle, which it would be no difficult thing to fortifie, in regard it ſtands upon a riſing Ground which Commands the City. There have alſo been two Councils held in this City, the one under the Pontificate of Pelagius, in 578. the other in 1147. It is ſeated upon the River Yonne, that falls into the Seine at Montereau.

Nevers, the Capital City of Nivernois, is a conſiderable City, not only for the goodneſs and fertility of the Soil, but for the Advantages it receives from the River Loire, which waſhes the Walls of it, and runs by the Fortreſs that Commands it, and over which it has a Bridge of Twenty Arches. Travellers are always us'd to viſit theſe Parts, where the Inhabitants make Glaſſes and Earthen Pots, which bring great Profit to this City. The Biſhoprick is under the Archbiſhop of Sens, and one of the beſt in the Kingdom. In the laſt Aſſembly of the States General of the Kingdom, the Deputies of Nivernois appear'd under the Government of Orleanois. There are in this Little Province both Iron and Silver Mines, but the People make little Advantage of 'em.

CHAP. XV. Of Berry and Burbonnois.

THough the Province of Berry be of no great Extent, yet is it very Rich. The Cloth which is there made is in great Eſteem; and the Wool in this Province is the beſt in the Kingdom. The Inhabitants who were in Ancient Time call'd the Bituriges, were very formidable: And Hiſtory informs us not only of the Conqueſts which they made in Germany and Italy; but that the ſame People, who a long time held the Empire of the Gauls, were they who gave Caeſar the Greateſt Trouble in his Conqueſts.

The Capital City of Berry is Bourges, being an Archbiſhoprick, with the Title of a Primacy and Patriarchate, having alſo a Preſidial Court, a Bailliage, a Generality, and a Univerſity. The Situation of it is very Advantageous, by reaſon of the two Rivers that make a kind of Bogg, and fill the Moats. It has ſeven Gates, and as many Suburbs. The Walls are in a good condition, fortify'd with Four and twenty Towers. The Ramparts are Cannon-proof, the Stones being cut Diamond faſhion, and Nineteen Foot thick. The Cathedral Church is dedicated to St. Stephen, a moſt beautiful Structure, ſupported by Fifty Pillars.

The Treaſury of this Cathedral contains many Curioſities which Foreigners will be glad to ſee, and of which I would have inſerted here a Catalogue, had I not unfortunately miſlay'd it in my Travels. This City ſuffer'd much by the Irruptions of the Barbarians in the Fifth Age, and ſtill it feels the furious ſack of the Huguenots upon the 27th of May 1562. when the Count of Montmorancy, who was their General, took it.

Bourbonnois is ſeparated from Burgundy by the River Loire, which lyes to the Eaſt; Berry bounds it to the Weſt; Auvergne and Foreſt to the South; and Nivernois to the North. This Province is not ſo conſiderable for it ſelf, though the Soil be very fertile, as for the Honour which it has to ſee the Illuſtrious Houſe of Bourbon wear the Crown of France.

The City of Bourbon bequeath'd her Name to this Province, though it be not the Capital; which is attributed to Moulins. The Caſtle of Bourbon is environ'd with 24 Towers, which renders it extremely ſtrong. Near the Caſtle lies a great Marſh, where are the Baths of Bourbon, ſo renown'd all over Europe.

Moulins is a very large and fair City, ſeated upon the River Allier, and remarkable for the Mineral Waters, and for the great Number of Cutlers Shops. The Preſidial Court is one of the greateſt Ornaments that belong to it.

CHAP. XVI. Of Poitou, and the Country of Aunis.

POitou is a large Province, containing near Sixty Leagues from Eaſt to Weſt, (De la Croix ſays, about 30 Leagues in Length, and 20 in Breadth) It is bounded by Berry, Limoſin, and Touraine. To the South, by Angoumois and Xantoigne; by Anjou and Bretaigne to the North; and to the Weſt by the Ocean. The Poictovins are civil and obliging; but they are ſo addicted to Raillery, and nettling, girding Sarcaſms, that you muſt either forbear keeping 'em Company, or elſe be forc'd to bear their Flouts; which being ſo frequent, change their Gay and Sportive Humour into the Vice of Scurrilous Detraction.

The Capital City of this Province is Poiters, ſeated upon a riſing Ground between two Rivers. It is famous for being a Biſhops See, and has a Preſidial Court, and a Univerſity for the Law, which Pope Eugenius IV. and Charles VII. founded there in 1431. At what time the Parlament of Paris was tranſlated thither, becauſe the Engliſh were Maſters of the Metropolis of the Kingdom. Near to Poitiers it was that the Battel ſo diſmall to France was fought in the Year 1356. where the Engliſh took K. John Priſoner.

The City of Poitiers is govern'd by a Mayor, Twelve Sheriffs or Aldermen, and Twelve Sworn Counſellors. The Walls and Caſtle roſe from the Ruins of the Amphitheater, and the other Structures are ſufficient Proofs of the Antiquity of it. Among the Reliques which are there preſerv'd, there is to be ſeen in the Cathedral, a part of St. Peter's Beard, which St. Hilary brought thither from Rome, as they ſay. The Statue of Conſtantine the Great, ſtands in the Church of Noſtre Dame. In the Church of St. Hilarius, is to be ſeen the Trunk of a Tree, which they tell you, ſerv'd that Saint inſtead of a Cradle, and has a peculiar Efficacy to reſtore Madmen to their Wits. There is alſo a Sepulchre which conſumes Dead Bodies in Four & twenty Hours, but which becomes noiſom to the Smell, if you rub it with Iron.

Above half a League from the City, is to be ſeen that which is call'd La Pierre Elevée, or the High-rais'd Stone, Five and twenty Foot long, and Seventeen broad, ſupported by Four other Stones. They tell yee, that Pantagruel drew this Stone out of a Rock, which is call'd, Paſſe-Lourain or the Lobcoch; having this Diſtich engrav'd upon it,

Hic Lapis ingentem ſuperat gravitate Coloſſum, Ponderis & grandi ſidera mole premit. This Stone the vaſt Coloſſus far ſurpaſſes, And with its ponderous Bulk the Stars oppreſſes.

This Stone, as I have ſaid already, is ſupported by Four Pillars; and there is alſo a fifth, upon which the Stone does not reſt; though it ſtand within a fingers breadth of it, of which the people of the Country tell this Story. That Sir Aldegonde carrying the great Stone upon his Head, and the Five Pillars in his Apron, let fall one of 'em; which the Devil preſently taking up, follow'd the Saint, who ſtopp'd half a League from Poitiers, and ſet the great Stone upon the Four Pillars that remain'd in his Apron. But the Devil being deſirous to add a fifth, could never raiſe it ſo high as to bear with the reſt, and to be aſſiſtant in ſupporting the Burthen.

Nor muſt I paſs over in ſilence a certain Cavern about four Leagues from the City, the Entrance into which is very difficult, and the Paſſage more difficult. 'Tis ſaid, that formerly they were wont to go and take a walk in this Cavern, after the uſual mirth and rejoycing that attends upon Weddings. But that a Young Bride having fallen into it and broken her Head, they who came after, thinking it more convenient to keep their Skulls whole, the Cuſtom was aboliſh'd. They who have a deſire to Viſit the Town-Houſe of Poitiers, may ſee the Franchiſes and Privileges granted by the Kings of France from time to time, to the City, Engraven upon Plates of Braſs.

There are alſo other very fair Cities in Poitou, as Lodun, the Caſtle of which is one of the beſt ſituated in the Kingdom. It was formerly call'd Juliodunum, and has a Bailliage and a Preſidial Court. Next to this Chaſteleraut, famous for Cutlers, and where they make the beſt falſe Diamonds in any Part of the World. 'Tis ſaid, that about a ſmall League from this City, in former days, a young Hind ſhew'd the Souldiers of Clovis the Great, where to paſs the River, going before 'em as their Guide, when they went to fight Alaric K. of the Goths. The Bridge which Katherine de Medicis there built, is a very fair one; as being Sixty ſix foot broad, and Two hundred and thirty long, ſupported by Nine Arches. Mailluizay and Luſon, are two Epiſcopal Cities, which have very fair Churches; nor are they without ſome particular Beauties: Nevertheleſs the Firſt Biſhoprick was tranſlated to Rochelle in 1648.

The Country of Aunis, ſo call'd, as they ſay, becauſe a certain King undertook to Conquer it by an Ell aday, though it be but of a ſmall extent, yet is very fertile and well peopl'd. The City of Rochelle is the Capital City. Which though it be not very Ancient, became famous in the laſt Age, by reaſon of the Civil Wars for Religion. The firſt Houſes that were erected in this place, were built to withſtand the Incurſions of the Normans, that many times Landed in the Harbour. By the Treaty of Bretigny it was ſurrender'd to the Engliſh againſt the Will of the Inhabitants; but return'd not long after under the Dominion of France.

The Hugonets became Maſters of it in the laſt Age. And La Noue, who was Governor of it, valiantly defended it againſt the Siege which Charles IX. in vain laid to it, with his Forces under the Conduct of his Brother Henry, afterwards Henry III. who left the Siege to take Poſſeſſion of the Crown of Poland. In the Year 1620. there was a meeting of the Huguenots at Rochel, to conſult about laying the Foundation of a ſmall Proteſtant Republick. But Lewis XIII. reduc'd 'em to their Duty in 1622. But in regard the Engliſh and Hollanders encourag'd 'em to revolt, and for that the Sea afforded an eaſie entrance for their ſuccour, they ſoon drew upon 'em the Indignation of their Soveraign; at what time, in the Year 1627. Cardinal Richelieu having caus'd a Mound or Dam to be raiſed, Seven hundred forty ſeven Fathom long, on purpoſe to hinder their Communication with the Sea, they Surrender'd the 28th of Octob. 1628. The King who was perſonally at the Siege, enter'd into the Town upon All-Saints Day, depriv'd the Inhabitants of their Privileges, and demoliſh'd their Fortifications, leaving only the two Towers which Charles V. built, and which were thought requiſite for the defence of the Port, which he ſecur'd with a Chain that reach'd from one Tower to another.

Since that time, the preſent King has ſurrounded it with New and Strong Fortifications, a good Cittadel, and other Works to hinder the Landing of a Forreign Enemy. It is now a Town of great Trade, whither all the Merchandizes are brought that are tranſported from the Indies; and beſides that it is a Biſhops See, it is alſo the ſeat of a Preſidial Juriſdiction, and a Soveraign Court for the Weſtern Salt-Pits. The people in their Humour, partake of the Air of the Sea, which they breath, and are therefore very boiſterous and inſolent, and no leſs full of Vanity and Pride. Rochefort is a Sea-Port Town at the Mouth of the River Charante, formerly no more then a Village, now a City with good Baſtions, upon which are planted Rows of Trees, that make very pleaſant Walks; There is alſo in this place ſeveral Ware-houſes, and an Hoſpital for ſick and wounded Seamen.

CHAP. XVII. Of Bretagne.

BRetagne is a very large Province, which is alſo uſually call'd by the Name of Little Bretaigne, to diſtinguiſh it from Great Britain; which contains the Kingdoms of England, Scotland and Ireland, and the ſmall Iſlands adjoyning. There is no Province of France that has ſo great a Number of Havens as this; for it is environ'd by the Ocean to the North, South and Weſt: Eaſtward it is bounded by Poitou, Anjou, Maine and Normandy. It extends it ſelf above Forty Leagues from South to North; that is to ſay, from the Iſland of Bouitz to the Mouth of the River Couenon, and Sixty from Eaſt to Weſt; that is to ſay, from Vitrey, to the Point of Conquet, and contains Nine Biſhopricks. Formerly it was govern'd by Kings for above Three hundred Years together, but was afterwards contented with the Title of a Dukedom, till the Year 1491. that Ann of Bretaine, the only Daughter of Francis II. the laſt Duke, married Charles the Eighth of France, and after that Lewis XII. who both United this Dutchy to the Crown.

The Soil is fertile in Corn, Flax, Hemp and Fruits, affords good Butter, and Breeds good Horſes, but produces little Wine, to the great Grief of the Inhabitants, who are great Lovers of it. Between Chaſteau-Briant and Martigues, are ſeveral Mines of Iron and Lead. In the Signory of Salle, is a Source of Water that ſmells of Antimony, and drives before it a ſort of Sand of the colour of Gold: and not far off upon a high Hill, they find Antimony, Sulphur and Copper: And in another place, they dig out Talc and Stone Allum, which being pounded into Powder, may be ſpun into long Threads or Candlewieks, which never go out as long as there is any ſubſtance remaining, and is thought to be the Asbeſtos of the Ancients. In the Mines of Valgoet, are to be found both Jaſper Stones, and very clear Chryſtal, with ſeveral other Rarities. Moreover, in this Province there is a great Value put upon the Secrets of the Mount Menehaldec, the Beauties of the Forreſt of Besban, where is ſtill to be ſeen the ſquare Baſe of Stone call'd Perron-Merlin, the ancient Divertiſement of the Knights Errant, and the Fountain of Balanton, &c. They alſo make great reckoning of the Amber of Bell-Iſle, the Aqueducts of Dal, the Vaults between Rieux and Redon. the Subterraneal Torrent in the Forreſt of St. Aubin du Cornier, the Singularities of the River Ardre, and the Lake of Grandlieu near Nantes. And having already told yee how the Province is ſeated upon the Sea, I think it needleſs to tell yee that they are ſtor'd with all ſorts of Fiſh; among the reſt, there is taken upon the Coaſt of Bretaigne, a certain Fiſh, which at Marſeilles is call'd Imperador or the Emperour, but in Bretanie, Gracieux Seigneur, which is very delightful to the taſt. The Bretons are of a very ſociable Humour, and there are two ſorts of People, whoſe Company pleaſes 'em better then any other. The firſt are thoſe that can ſtoutly hold out to drink with 'em; The next, are they who in their Diſcourſes, or otherwiſe, make appear their Hatred of the Normans.

For the People of thoſe two Provinces have ſuch an Antipathy one againſt another, that they can never ſpeak well of each other.

Rennes is the Capital City of Bretagne, divided by the little River of Vilaine, which brings up great Barks to the Town, though it ſtands above Twenty Leagues from the Sea. Henry II. erected a Parlament in this City, which is alſo a Biſhop's See, adorn'd with fair Churches, two Abbies, St. Magdalens and St. Georges, with ſeveral other Religious Houſes, and the Bell belonging to the Palace Clock, is accompted one of the biggeſt in the Kingdom: and having been formerly the Reſidence of the Dukes of Bretagne; it is ſtor'd with ſeveral Reliques for Travellers to ſee, either out of Curioſity or Devotion.

Nantes contends for Superiority with Rennes, as being likewiſe a Biſhops See, and pretending that her Haven renders her more wealthy, more famous, and makes an ample amends for the Parlament, with which the other is Honour'd. But not to trouble my ſelf to decide the Controverſie between theſe two Cities, I ſhall only obſerve that Nantes is very ancient; and ſome Authors will have it, that Nantes, one of the Progeny of Noah, was the Founder of it, and gave it his own Name. However it were, ſhe had once particular Counts of her own, and the Beauty and Fertility of her Soil, appropriated to her the Sirname of the Eye of Bretagne. There is a Caſtle belonging to this City; which ſecures the Port: and her Preſidial Court, where there is a Tower and a Clock, both conſiderable for the rarity of their Workmanſhip, and an Election render her no leſs remarkable then her Univerſity for the Law, founded by Pope Pius II. in the time of Francis II. the laſt Duke of Bretagne.

When you viſit the Churches, you ſhall ſee the Tombs of ſeveral Dukes of Bretagne: The Town-Houſe is built after the Modern Mode: and her large Ware-Houſes for all ſorts of Merchandizes merit the View of all Travellers, who will then admire the vaſt Wealth of this City. The Edict which Hen. IV. ſet forth at Nantes, in favour of the Proteſtants in April 1598. was revok'd by Lewis XIV. in October 1685.

St. Malo's is another famous Seaport Town of this Province ſeated upon a Rock in the Sea, in the Iſland of St. Aron, joyn'd to the Land by a long Cauſey; the entrance into which is defended by a Caſtle flank'd with large Towers, environ'd with good Moats, where there is a Gariſon and a Governour. The Biſhoprick of St. Quidalet was tranſlated thither in the Year 1172.

I have here two things to obſerve concerning St. Malo's, one of which is true, the other ſeems to me to be a Fable. The firſt is, That every Night they let out a dozen or fifteen great Maſtiffs, that preſently run their Rounds about the City upon the Ramparts, and infallibly tear to pieces all people that they meet with. So that before they ſuffer 'em to walk their Patrolle, there is a Bell Toll'd for ſome time to give people notice that the mercileſs Watch is a coming. Theſe Dogs are kept on purpoſe to preſerve the City from ſurprize: which gave occaſion for ſome to ſay, That Dogs had the Guard of St. Malo's.

My ſecond Remark relates to a Raven and a Crow that are in the Iſland, whoſe number never increaſes. When one of theſe two Dies, all that are in the Neighbouring Parts flock thither to take poſſeſſion of the Vacancy, as if it were an Inheritance; and in regard they have no Knowledge of Littleton's Tenures or the Canon-Law, much leſs of the Genealogy of their Anceſtors, ſo as to leave their Eſtates to the next Heirs, they fall to Bloody Wars one among another: many are ſlain on both ſides, many are wounded, and many betake themſelves to Cowardly flight, and ſave themſelves upon the Continent; and thus at length the ſtrongeſt carries it, and becomes peaceable Poſſeſſour of the Iſland all the reſt of his days. As to the Surviver, I know not whether upon the loſs of his Companion he loſes his Privileges, or whether he meaſures Beaks and Claws, and then Duels it out with the new Comer.

Breſt is the beſt Seaport-Town which The French have upon the Ocean; for which reaſon it is the Great Maritime Arſenal of the Kingdom, and the Rendevouz of the French Fleets. The Entrance into the Bay is very dangerous by reaſon of ſeveral Rocks that lye under Water upon high Tides; but there are always skilful Pilots ready to carry in great Ships without any hazard. The King caus'd this Place to be fortify'd after a wonderful manner, and not without Reaſon, it being one of the Principal Keys of the Kingdom, and the Rendevouze of all his Men of War.

CHAP. XVIII. Of Anjou and Touraine.

THE Province of Anjou, dignify'd with the Title of a Dukedom, has Bretagne to the Eaſt, Maine to the North, Touraine to the Weſt, and Poitou to the South. It is Thirty Leagues in Length, and Twenty Broad (Twenty two, ſays de la Croix) and being water'd with the Loire, the Sarre, and ſeveral other Rivers (no leſs then Six and Thirty, ſays de la Croix) it is extremely fertile, and the People are Witty and very Crafty.

Angers, the Metropolis, call'd by ſome Authors the Black City, by reaſon that all the Houſes are cover'd with black Slate, which they dig out of the Quarries adjoyning, is the Seat of a Biſhop, a Preſidial Court, a Bailliage, a Mint, and a Univerſity for the Law; Founded by Charles V. in 1364. others ſay, by Lewis XII. in 1398. The Cathedral dedicated to St. Maurice, is a lovely Structure, and the three Steeples over the Portal are wonderful pieces of Architecture, of which that in the middle ſeems as if it hung in the Air, being ſupported by the Foundations of the other two. Among the Antiquities of the Treaſury, there is to be ſeen St. Maurice's Sword, and one of the Ciſterns, that contain'd ſome part of the Water which Chriſt turn'd into Wine at the Galilean Wedding.

The Caſtle is very Ancient, and built upon a Rock, flank'd with Eighteen large round Towers, and defended with a wide & deep Moat cut out of the Rock, whither many times Priſoners of State are ſent, for more Security. The Huguenots ſurpriz'd this Caſtle in the Year 1585. but they were ſoon after expell'd again by the Anjovins. Angers is alſo remarkable for the Univerſity there Erected, according to the King's Letters Patents bearing Date June—1605. with the ſame Privileges which the Academy of Paris enjoys, except the Comittimus. The Number of the Academies is fix'd to Thirty, beſides the Biſhop, the King's Lieutenant, the firſt Preſident, the King's Proctor in the Preſidial Court, and ſome others who have their Places in the Academy by vertue of their Employments. The City it ſelf is govern'd by a Mayor and Twenty four Aldermen or Sheriffs.

La Fleſche ſtands upon the Loire, about Ten Leagues from Angers to the South. There is in it a very fair College of Jeſuits, Founded in the Year 1605. by Henry IV. containing three Courts, and three Piles of Lodging Chambers, ſufficient to Lodge the King and all his Court. The Heart of that great Monarch lyes in the Chappel under the Steps aſcending to the Altar, as he ordain'd by his Laſt Will.

Saumur, is applauded by all Forreigners for the Pleaſantneſs of the Situation; where there is alſo a Strong Caſtle and well fortify'd.

Touraine lyes to the North of Anjou, about Thirty Leagues in length, and as many broad. This Country is ſo fertile, that it's call'd the Garden of France. The People are good Natur'd, Sincere and Witty. If you will gain their Friendſhip, you muſt have a care of being Melancholy: And therefore they are call'd, The Laughers of Tours, Les Rieurs de Tours.

They who have ſeen Tours the Capital City of this Province agree, that it is one of the moſt delightful Manſions in the Kingdom. It is the ſeat of an Archbiſhop, a Preſidial Court, and a Money-Chamber. The Loire, over which there is a Bridge of Nineteen Arches, cauſes it to abound with all things. There are great Quantities of Silk Stuffs made in this City, which are thence tranſported all over Europe. The Church of St. Martins is of a vaſt length, being a Hundred and ſixty Foot long, with two and fifty Windows, twenty Columns, nineteen Doors, and three very High Towers. in the Year 1591. there were found in it two Urns full of the Aſhes of ſeveral Bodies conſum'd by Fire.

Amboiſe ſtands upon the Loire with a Caſtle Royal built there by Charles VIII. to ſignalize the Place of his Birth.

Loches is remarkable for the Caſtle and a beautiful Forreſt adjoyning to it. Lewis XI. enlarg'd this Caſtle, and added a Dungeon to it, where he kept the Cardinal de Balve a long time: and here it was that Lewis Sforza being confin'd by Lewis XIII. dy'd in his Impriſonment, and was Buri'd in the Church of Noſtre Dame, where is to be ſeen the Tomb of Agnes Surel, Charles VIIth's Miſtreſs.

Chinon is a pleaſant City, where Charles the Seventh was retir'd, when Joane of Arc came to find him out and proffer him her Service: And more lately remarkable for being the place where Rablaiſe was Born.

CHAP. XIX. Of Beauſſe, which Comprehends Orleanois, Bleſois, and Le Pais Chartrain.

IN regard there have been no juſt Bounds given to this Province, becauſe ſeveral Authors, out of a humour joyn the Neighbouring Provinces to it, I ſhall not undertake to limit the extent of it; but following the Opinion of thoſe who divide it into Upper, Middle and Lower, which are commonly call'd Le Pais Chartrain, Orleanois, and Bleſois; I ſhall only obſerve what is moſt curious in the Principal Cities of the Province. By the way, you are to obſerve that this Country is call'd the Granary of France, by reaſon of the great quantity of Corn which it produces. As for the People, the Chartrains are look'd upon to be Zealous Catholicks: The Orleanois, ſomewhat addicted to Slandering and Backbiting: The Bleſois are ſaid to ſpeak the beſt French; yet both the one and the other are very civil and obliging.

Chartres is a City ſo Ancient, that ſome Authors affirm it to have been built by the Gomerites, who were ſent into Gaul, a little after Noah's time. However, certain it is, that the Druids built this City long before the Birth of Chriſt, whoſe Nativity they foretold, and that he ſhould be Born of a Virgin; which was the reaſon that Priſcus the Roman Governor erected a Temple there, which he conſecrated Virgini Pariturae, to the Virgin that ſhould bear a Son. And ſeeing that St. Paul coming to Athens, met with an Altar dedicated to the Ʋnknown God, we may the more readily believe that either by ſome Prophetick Spirit, or by ſome other Prerogatives only known to Providence, that the Pagans in the midſt of their Darkneſs had ſome glimmerings of that knowledge which God reſerv'd for the Chriſtians. And hence I may obſerve, that if ſome Chriſtians were to be met among the Pagans of thoſe Times, there are more Pagans to be found among the Chriſtians at this day.

There is a Well to be ſeen at Chartres, which is call'd the Saints Well, becauſe the Romans were wont to throw the Primitive Chriſtians into it. There belongs to this City a Preſidial Court, together with a Biſhops See, under the Archbiſhop of Paris, ever ſince 1622. for before it depended upon the Archbiſhop of Sens. There are to be ſeen in this City many Pieces of Antiquity, and a great number of Reliques. The Cathedral dedicated to the Holy Virgin is very conſiderable for the Quire, & the Church under-ground, and the two Steeples are the Admiration of Forreigners. The Streets are fair and ſtraight, the Houſes neatly built, the Market-Places large, and the River Eure affords a Water very proper for ſeveral ſorts of Manufacture. In the Year 1591. Hen. IV. took it from the League, and caus'd himſelf to be Crown'd in it, by reaſon that Reims held out in Rebellion.

Orleans is a very conſiderable City, dignify'd with the Title of Dukedom, and a Biſhop's See, under the Archbiſhop of Paris, with a Preſidial Court and a Univerſity for the Law, founded by St. Lewis, and confirm'd by Philip the Fair in 1312. All this advances much the Honour of the City, but her greater▪ Glory to be the Appanage or Childs Portion and Title always belonging to the Second Son of France, much more Exalts the Idea that Forreigners have of her.

This City is ſeated upon the Banks of the River Loire, in a Country full of Vineyards that furniſh it with excellent Wine.

Among the moſt conſiderable Buildings is to be ſeen the Church of the Holy Croſs, which the Religionaries ruin'd in the laſt Age; but though Henry the Great caus'd it to be rebuilt, he has not reſtor'd it the Beauty of her Priſtin Antiquity. This City was ſeveral times Beſieg'd, and twice miraculouſly deliver'd: Once by the Prayers of her Biſhop St. Aignan, when Attila King of the Hunns beſieg'd it in the Year 450. Long after that the Engliſh beſieg'd it in the Year 1417. at what time it was ſuccour'd by Joan of Arc, call'd the Maid of Orleans. The Kingdom was then in a Low condition, and upon the very brink of Ruin; at what time this Maid, who was no more then a poor Shepherdeſs, born at Dompremi upon the Meuſe, receiv'd a Command from God to go and ſuccour Orleans, and to Crown Charles VII. K. of France at Reims. Coming to Court, ſhe made up to the King, whom ſhe had never ſeen in her life before; and though he had nothing to be ſignaliz'd from the reſt, in the croud of Courtiers that were in a huddle about him.

She told him of the Command ſhe had receiv'd from Heaven; They gave her what Men ſhe deſir'd, with which ſhe defeated the Engliſh and reliev'd Orleans. After that ſhe caus'd the King to be Crown'd at Reims, re-conquer'd all Champagne, and had expell'd the Engliſh quite out of France, but that ſhe had the Misfortune to be taken before Compiegne, which ſhe had laid Siege to. When the Engliſh had her in their power, they carri'd her to Rouen, and Burnt her for a Witch. She was call'd the Maid or Virgin, becauſe that having been ſearch'd by ſeveral Matrons in the preſence of the Queen of Sicily, ſhe was found to be ſo. The Orleanois had ſo great a Veneration for her Memory, that they ſet up her Statue upon the Bridge of Orleans.

There are ſeveral very fair Country ſeats in the Parts about Orleans, of which Chambort is the moſt remarkable, as being built by the Command of Francis I. and the Stairs belonging to it, are look'd upon to be a kind of a Prodigy; for that when you would go up into the Chamber over head from the Room where you are, inſtead of aſcending, you muſt deſcend.

The Loire waſhes the Walls of Bloiſe as well as of Orleans. This City is ſeated in a moſt delightful Air, which the Pleaſure of the Walks about it renders much more Charming, provided the Weather be dry. For otherwiſe the Soil is ſo fat, that the leaſt Rain makes the ways almoſt impaſſable. There is a very beautiful Caſtle belongs to it, built upon a Rock, which has been the ſeat of ſeveral Kings. There is alſo a Pyramid erected upon the Bridge that croſſes the River, in Honour of Hen. IV. of France. There are alſo to be ſeen ſome fair Ruins of Roman Antiquity: and Travellers will find a great deal of Pleaſure in viewing the Park that belongs to the Royal Caſtle.

At ſome diſtance from the City is to be ſeen the Caſtle of Buri, in the Court of which is erected a Pillar, on the top of which ſtands a Figure of King David in Braſs, which was brought from Rome.

The Lake alſo which is in the Dutchy of Vendoſme is very remarkable for this, that the Water abounds in it for ſeven Years together; but the next ſeven Years it lyes quite dry. During which time you may perceive Caverns in it that are extreamly deep. The Country people alſo know by certain Marks of the Height of the Water, whether the ſeven Years that the Water is abſent will be fruitful or barren.

Amboiſe is a very ancient City, where Charles VIII. was Born; and this Prince it was who built the Caſtle, which is the greateſt Ornament of it. In this Caſtle Lewis XII. inſtituted the Order of the Knights of St. Michael, the Firſt day of August in the Year 1469. This City is alſo famous for the Conſpiracy there diſcover'd againſt Francis II. Catherine de Medicis, his Mother, and all the Court in 1560. And Hiſtory informs us, that there was a moſt Bloody Butchery of the Conſpirators, among whom there was a great number of Perſons of Quality.

CHAP. XX. Of the Iſland of France.

VVHen Forreigners hear talk of the Iſland of France, unleſs they caſt their Eyes upon the Map, they take it for a Land divided from the reſt of the Kingdom. But though it be intercut and intercepted with many Rivers, however they do not make any Iſland; only it is a Name which the Province has deriv'd from little Iſlands which the Seine ſurrounds in ſeveral places, and among the reſt, from two within the Circuit of Paris; which are call'd, the Iſland of Noſtre Dame, and the Iſland of the Palace. This Iſland is the moſt Noble Portion of the moſt Illuſtrious, moſt Potent and moſt Flouriſhing Kingdom in the World.

This is what the Author ſtretches out in Praiſe of his own Country; but whether it agree ſo well with the preſent Condition of France, is left for the Impartial to judge.

Paris is not only the Capital of this Province, but the Metropolis of the whole Kingdom; nor is it without good Reaſon that a certain Author calls it, The Queen of the Cities in the World. It is ſo ancient, that the Time is not poſitively known when it began to be built. Some ſay, that the Foundations of it were laid before the Death of Noah. However it were, Authors agree that it is more ancient then Rome, as it is much larger; in regard that Rome is not above Twenty three Thouſand and fifty Paces in Circuit; but that Paris is Twenty ſix Thouſand eight Hundred and fifty Paces in Compaſs, the Suburbs being therein comprehended.

In the Year 1622. the Biſhoprick was Erected into an Archbiſhoprick; The preſent Archbiſhop is one of the moſt Learned, the moſt Illuſtrious, and the moſt Obliging Prelates in the Kingdom; Meſſire Francois de Harlay, Duke and Peer of France; Commander of the King's Orders; formerly Archbiſhop of Rouen, and one whoſe Merit is Univerſally known. He has a Seat in the Parlament of Paris, which is the firſt in the Kingdom; and which is uſually call'd the Parlament of Peers. But beſides this Tribunal, there are ſeveral others in Paris, as the Chamber of Accompts or of the Exchequer, which was made Sedentary at Paris, at the ſame time that the Parlament was fix'd; The Grand Chaſtelet, where the Provoſt of Paris ſits as a Judge, and may be call'd the Seſſions Houſe of Paris. There is alſo the Conſeil du Roy, or the King's Council, which conſiſts of ſuch Perſons as he pleaſes to make Choice of to Conſult about Publick and Important Buſineſs; Conſeil de Finances, compos'd of a Superintendant, Intendants, Comptrollers, Regiſters, &c. and the Conſeil Privè de Parties, which is Aſſembled about particular Cauſes and Controverſies between Party and Party: Beſides ſeveral other Courts and Chambers which we omit for Brevities ſake.

The Univerſity of Paris is the moſt famous in all France, Italy, Spain, or Germany; where all manner of Learning and Sciences are taught. It was founded in the Year 791. by Charlemaign, at the perſwaſion of the learned Alcuin, who was the firſt Profeſſor of it. And I am apt to believe, that to juſtifie the Opinion of M. Balzac, who calls the Univerſity of Paris the Latin Country, there needs no more then to tell yee, that it conſiſts of Fifty five Colleges, which are always full of an Infinite Number of Scholars; and every Body knows that the Sorbonne is a Nurſery of Learned Men, and the moſt rigid College in France.

I do not here propoſe to my ſelf to make an exact Deſcription of all the Beauties of Paris; for a Volume in Folio would not contain 'em all. I ſhall only take notice of thoſe things that render it moſt remarkable, without entring into a particular Enumeration of all Particulars. The chiefeſt without doubt is this, that it is the place where the Monarchs of France have all along kept their Courts: and when the Palace of the Louvre, which is joyn'd to that of the Tuilleries, ſhall be finiſh'd, with that Order and Magnificence as it is begun, 'twill be the moſt Noble Building in the Univerſe. There will not be only Lodging ſufficient for all the Court; but alſo for the Miniſters of State, for all the Officers of the Crown, and all Forreign Ambaſſadors that come to reſide in the City.

The Cathedral Church which is dedicated to the Holy Virgin, is a Hundred ſeventy four Paces in length, and Sixty broad, and a Hundred Paces high. There is to be ſeen the Old and New Teſtament engrav'd upon the Stones of the Quire; and over the Door of the Quire is to be ſeen a Crucifix, with an Image of our Lady, which are two Maſter-pieces of Workmanſhip. The Frontiſpiece of the Church is adorn'd with three large Portals, over which are One and twenty Figures of the King's that Reign'd from Childebert, to Philip the Auguſt. Two high ſquare Towers ſerve it inſtead of a Steeple, which are eſteem'd to be the faireſt in France. So that 'tis commonly ſaid, If you would have a perfect Cathedral, you muſt joyn the Quire of Bauvaiſe, the Body of Amiens, the Portal of Reimes, the Steeple of Chartres, and the Towers of Paris. From the bottom to the top of theſe Towers you aſcend with Three hundred eighty nine Steps; and at the top there is a Gallery that leads from one Tower to the other. To the Church it ſelf belong Seven Doors and Forty five Chappels. But that which is moſt of all to be wonder'd at is this, that this Vaſt and Magnificent Structure is built upon Piles driven into the Ground, by reaſon it ſtands at the farther end of the Iſland of the Palace. The Quire, the Body of the Church, and the Chappels are adorn'd with lovely Pictures, and many precious Reliques are preſerv'd within thoſe ſacred Walls.

The Holy Chappel of the Palace, is a Church which is very remarkable, not only for Antiquities and Reliques, but for the Workmanſhip of the Building which is ſupported by Pillars ſo ſmall, that a Man would wonder how they are able to bear ſo great a weight. The moſt famous Reliques that are lockt up within theſe two Places, are the Crown of Thorns with which Chriſt was Crown'd: The Table-Cloath upon which he Supp'd with his Apoſtles: The Spunge, and Head of the Spear wherewith his Side was pierc'd; Some of the Virgins Milk, Moſes's Rod, a piece of St. John Baptiſt's Head, &c. In ſhort, not to engage my ſelf to give an account of all the Churches in particular; I ſhall only tell yee that Paris contains One and fifty Pariſhes▪ of which the moſt part conſiſt of Twenty five, Thirty and Thirty five thouſand Communicants; Two and fifty Monaſteries, Seventy eight Nunneries, and Thirty Hoſpitals.

If we add to this, that there are in Paris Eight hundred and thirty Streets, Twelve Suburbs, of which St. German des Prez alone is larger then many Capital Cities; Ten Bridges, Seventy three Piazza's and Market-Places, though de la Croix ſays but Twenty five, and a great Number of Palaces or Noble-Men's Houſes, 'twill be no wonder to us what Charles V. ſaid, That he had ſeen in France a World, a City and a Village: The World was Paris; the City was Orleans, and the Village was Poitiers. It would be no difficult thing to Arm in Paris Two hundred Thouſand Men for the Service of the State; for an Army might be rais'd only of the People that wear Liveries, from Eighteen to Thirty Years of Age.

The Baſtille is a Caſtle built near St. Anthony's Gate for the Security of the Arſenal, which is one of the beſt provided in Europe. This Fortreſs is flank'd with Four Towers, ſurrounded with Moats, and furniſh'd with Good Artillery; and is the Place where many times Priſoners of State are ſecur'd.

The Royal Hoſpital for the Infirm, is a Houſe which Lewis XIV. caus'd to be built for the Entertainment of Officers and Souldiers who are not in a Condition to bear Arms, as having been Maim'd in the King's Service. And there may be conveniently Lodg'd in this Hoſpital Four Thouſand Men, who keep as exact Guard within the Place, as if they were in a Garriſon.

Now in regard that Paris lyes in the Heart of the Kingdom, there is no need of keeping any Garriſon in it. But becauſe it is the general Concourſe of all ſorts of People, and for that it frequently happens that Rogues and Night-Robbers wait their Opportunities, and generally practiſe their Villanies in Places of great reſort; the City therefore keeps a ſtanding Watch of Two hundred and fifty Men, part Horſe and part Foot, which are divided into ſeveral Quarters to walk the Rounds and ride the Patroule. But in regard the Criminals make it their Buſineſs to avoid 'em, the Citizens and others are frequently ſet upon after the Watch is paſt, not being able to help themſelves. 'Tis true, that in my Opinion it were an eaſie thing to ſecure Paris againſt the Robberies and Murthers which are too frequently there committed, with little Charge to the City; but it would be a raſhneſs in me to go about to inſtruct the moſt underſtanding Magiſtrates in the World.

I have already mention'd, that in Paris there are Seventy and three Publick Piazza's or Market-Places. I ſhall only ſpeak of thoſe three which are the moſt Modern, and which are alſo the moſt conſiderable. The firſt is call'd the Royal Place, which is in that part where formerly ſtood the Palais des Tournelles, or of the Parlamental Court for Criminal Cauſes, near St. Antonies-Street. 'Tis very regular, and environ'd with Thirty ſix Pavillions no leſs proportionable, and rail'd quite round with Iron Spikes on all the four ſides. All the foreparts of the Houſes round the Piazza are ſupported with Pillars that make a kind of a Gallery or Portico, under which People may walk at all times ſhelter'd from the Sun and the Rain. Hen. IV. began it, but in regard it was not finiſh'd till in the Reign of Lewis XIII. they ſet up a Braſs Statue of King Lewis, omitting his Predeceſſor, Erected the 27th. of Septemb. 1639. upon a Pedeſtal of white Marble, with Inſcriptions on the four Sides.

The Second is the Place de Victoires in the Pariſh of St. Euſtachius, at the End of the Street des Petits Champs; which ſome People know better by Mazarin's Quarter. Meſſire Francois d'Aubuſſon, Duke de Fueillade, built this Piazza, as an Eternal Monument of his Fidelity and Zeal for the Honour of Lewis XIV. in the Year 1686. and in his Memory Erected in the Middle of it, the King's Statue of Gilt Braſs.

The Groupe of this Statue is compos'd of three Figures: The one repreſents the King ſtanding upright in his Royal Robes: The other Victory, which ſtands behind, having one foot upon a Globe, from whence ſhe raiſes her ſelf, and puts a Crown upon the King's Head. The Third is a Cerberus, which the King tramples under foot; alluding to the Triple Alliance, which the King made a ſhift to break by the help of a Kind Neighbour. The King's Statue is Thirteen foot high: and the Groupe with a Hercules's Club, a Lions Skin, and a Helmet weighs above Thirty thouſand weight. The whole is very neatly Gilt, and rais'd upon a Pedeſtal of vein'd Marble, two and twenty foot high, adorn'd with four Bodies of Braſs in Chains, with Inſcriptions denoting the Subjection to which the King has reduc'd his Enemies. At the four Entrances into the Place ſtands a Braſs Lanthorn Gilt, into which there are Candles put every Night to enlighten the Place. Which Lanthorns are ſuſtain'd by three Columns of Marble, adorn'd with Baſe Reliefs of Braſs which repreſent the King's Victories.

Monſieur de la Fueillade foreſeeing that Time brings all things to ruin, and defaces the nobleſt Structures; and being deſirous to preſerve this Monument entire to perpetuity, made a Deed of Conveyance of all his Eſtate to the preſent Duke of Fueillade, & the Male Heirs of his Body, and for want of ſuch Iſſue to the next of Kin, that bore the Name and Arms of Aubuſſon, and for want of ſuch to the City of Paris, upon Condition that whoever inherit ſhall every Five and twenty Years reguild the Statue, Lanthorns and Ornaments at their own Coſts and Charges, keep all the ſeveral Pieces of Workmanſhip in repair, and find Candles for the Lanthorns to enlighten the Piazza.

The Third is a very fair and large Piazza very like the Royal Piazza, only that it has not Arches round about in form of a Portico. It joyns to St. Honor's Street facing the Convents of the Brown Mendicants and the Capuchins; and runs as far as the New Street of the Little Fields. M. de Louvois began it, but ſince his Death, the Buildings have been diſcontinu'd. 'Tis call'd the Piazza of the Conqueſts, and was deſign'd for the ſetting up the King's Statue on Horſeback, which is already finiſh'd; and the Ornaments that are to accompany it, are to ſet forth the Glorious Actions of that Monarch.

And ſince I am ſpeaking of the Publick Places where the Statues of our Kings are to be ſeen, I muſt not omit the Statue of Henry the Great erected upon Pont Neuf, juſt againſt the Dauphin Piazza. It is of Braſs, upon a Horſe of the ſame Metal, rais'd upon a Pedeſtal of Marble and Jaſper, adorn'd with Baſe Reliefs, and Inſcriptions in Letters of Gold, denoting the Principal Victories of that Great Monarch.

Pont Neuf, ſtanding over the Point of the Iſland of the Palace, was begun in 1578. under the Reign of Henry III. but was not finiſh'd till 1604. when Henry IV. was come to the Crown, and had in part appeas'd the Troubles of his Kingdom. It conſiſts of two Bridges, which the Point of the Iſland joyns together, ſupported by Twelve Arches. On both ſides of this Bridge upon an Elevation of about three foot, ſtand a great Number of Brokers Shops, which do not hinder, but that four Coaches may go a-breaſt in the middle. It is alſo adorn'd with a Houſe that ſtands upon Piles, which is commonly call'd La Samaritaine, becauſe of the Figure of the Samaritan Woman which is there to be ſeen, together with that of Chriſt, who inſtructs her that there is a Water more wholeſom then that which ſhe ſeeks for.

Within theſe few Years there was another Bridge built much after the faſhion of Pont Neuf, over againſt the Palace of the Tuilleries, which is now call'd Pont Royal, the Royal Bridge, and ſtands where the Red Bridge ſtood before. There are moreover ſeveral other Bridges very conſiderable, as the Change Bridge, St. Michael's, the Bridge of Noſtredame, and Pont Marie; which have Houſes on both ſides, ſo high that they cannot be perceiv'd to ſtand over the Water.

The French Academy is become ſo famous over Europe, that all Men have a particular Eſteem for all the Learned Men who have the Honour to be Members of it. It was not Confirm'd by the King's Edict till the Year 1635. though it were ſet up five or ſix Years before, and was inſtituted by Chance. For that in the Year 1620. certain Learned Perſons that Lodg'd in ſeveral parts of the City, reſolv'd to meet once a Week at one of their Houſes by Turns, that ſo they might with more eaſe confer together. And this was that which gave a Beginning to this Academy, which was at firſt under the Protection of Cardinal Richlieu. Now the Number of the Academies is fix'd to Forty.

Beſides this Academy, Paris has alſo Three others; The Academy Royal of Painting, which owes the Beginning of it to M. de Noyers Secretary of State, and Surveyor of the King's Buildings in the Reign of Lewis XIII. They met at firſt in the Palais Royal, but were afterwards remov'd into the Galleries of the Louvre, at what time it was ſettl'd by a Decree of Council in the Year 1648. The Academy Royal of Sciences, compos'd of a great number of Learned Phyſicians, Philoſophers, and Mathematicians, ſettl'd by Mr. Colbert, Miniſter of State, at the Sollicitation of M. du Clos, and the Abbot of Bonzaisi. And for the ſake of theſe Learned Men it is, that the King has erected an Obſervatory in the Suburb of St. James, for the making new Experiences, and diſcovery of new Secrets in Phyſick and Mathematicks. And laſtly, The Royal Academy of Architecture, ſettl'd by the ſame Mr. Colbert in 1671.

As for the Divertiſements of Paris▪ no body can be ignorant that there are wanting neither Exquiſite Voices for Opera's, nor good Actors for French and Italian Comedies; nor any ſort of excellent Company; whether for Converſation, Play, or Courtſhip. And for Places of Meeting and Walking, there are the Tuilleries, the Queen's Court, and the Groves of Boulogne and Vincennes.

But I perceive this Chapter has carried me too far, which obliges me to omit a Thouſand Wonderful Things which Paris encloſes, and only to tell Forreigners▪ That they can never be able to underſtand the Beauty and Magnificence of it, till they have made a conſiderable ſtay in the Place; and that the moſt elevated Idea's which I could give 'em, by a more Copious Deſcription and better Study'd, would come ſhort of what they really are.

CHAP. XXI. Of the Places adjoyning to Paris.

AFter what I have ſaid of the Grandeur, Beauty and Magnificence of Paris, 'twill be no hard matter to believe that the parts about it are extreamly well peopled; There being Ten Thouſand Boroughs, Villages or Caſtles within Ten Leagues round it. I ſhall only ſay ſomething of the moſt Conſiderable places, not much caring for the Criticiſms of thoſe who ſhall cenſure me for not reporting faithfully all their Beauties. For I declare to 'em before hand, that I ſhall not engage to ſatisfie 'em with a Piece of Perfection. For in ſhort, if a Man ſhould go about to examine all the Wonders, Magnificence and Riches of the Royal Seats not far from Paris, it would be enough to dazle his Eyes; nor can any Man Contemplate 'em without being raviſh'd into Extaſie.

Since the Reign of Lewis the Juſt, Verſailles was no more then an Ordinary Caſtle, conſiſting of a Body of Lodgings, accompani'd with two Wings, and ending in four Pavillons. But in 1661. the King propoſing to himſelf to make ſome ſtay there, enlarg'd this Building with another much more Magnificent. At length in 1678, the Old Caſtle not appearing worthy the State and Grandeur of ſo Great a Monarch, it was pull'd down, to make room for another more Superb: for the rearing of which, all the moſt Famous Maſters in Europe for Architecture, Sculpture and Painting were ſent for to diſplay their utmoſt Skill. So that the Magnificence of every Apartment out-does whatever there is of moſt rare in Forreign Countries: Even the Stables of Verſailles are more Magnificent and Nobler then the Palaces of ſeveral Princes of Europe. There is a City built on two ſides of the Caſtle with extraordinary Symmetry. The Caſtle is of ſo large Extent, that not only all the Princes and Princeſſes of the Blood have Large and Convenient Lodgings within it, but alſo all the Miniſters and Secretaries of State, and a great number of other Lords.

The Soil about Verſailles is naturally dry and unpleaſant. But Lewis the Great, has enforc'd Nature, as I may ſo ſay, to be more favourable to that Part which he had made choice of for his Reſidence. For the Earth not only produces all the Plants, the Fruits, the Flowers that grow in the moſt fertile places in the World, but by the benefit of the Aqueducts this place abounds ſo much in Water, that you would take it rather for a Sea, when all the Engins play, then for a Garden of Pleaſure. And what is more particular and almoſt incredible, thoſe Engins throw the Water up into the Air in different Figures. You ſhall perceive Galleries of Water, Triumphal Arches, Pavillions, Arbors, Theatres, Mountains, &c. The faireſt Receptacles for Water, are thoſe of Ceres, Flora, Apollo and Bacchus. The Banqueting-Hall, the Labyrinth, the Walk of Water, are Machines worthy the Curioſity of Strangers.

All this Water is drawn from the Sein, by the Aſſiſtance of a great number of Pumps ranvers'd, and carry'd to Verſailles by the only Engin which is to be ſeen in Europe; being the Invention of the Sieurs de Ville and Ranequin. This Piece of Workmanſhip which may contend with the Seven Wonders of the World, conſiſts of Fourteen Wheels that have Eight and twenty Motions, which are caus'd by Twenty Chains, and Eight Water Engins, with which they force up the Water into an Aqueduct of Thirty ſix Arches ſeated upon the Top of a Mountain, and Five hundred and ſeventy Foot from the ſide of the River. All theſe Motions work Night and Day, there being no more then 18 Men, in three different Diviſions to look after 'em. All people admire the Effects of the King's Glory and Grandeur, and the large extent of the Genius of thoſe Artiſts who invented this Engin to the higheſt degree of Perfection.

They who will viſit the Apartments of Verſailles, the Gardens, the Park, the Place where all ſorts of Strange Creatures are kept; the Grotto's, the Labyrinths, and the Caſtle of Trianon, which is a real Jewel, all wrought within and without with Marble of divers colours, have need of Eight days time; neither will that ſuffice to view all theſe Wonders that ſurpaſs Imagination.

The Caſtle of Merli, but a ſmall League from Verſailles, is another Royal Seat, whither the King goes uſually twice a Month, to ſpend two or three days; during which time, he gives Audience to no body, unleſs it be to his Miniſters, and thoſe that are ſent for to Council, which his Majeſty holds there, concerning the moſt Important Affairs of State.

Next to Verſailles, St. German on Laie may diſpute for Priority before all the other Royal Houſes. This place is famous for the Birth of Lewis XIV. upon the 5th. of Septemb. 1638. He was baptiz'd in the Old Caſtle the 21ſt. of April, 1643.

Beſides the Regularity and Magnificence of the Caſtle, there are the Gardens and Grotto's to be ſeen, adorn'd with a Thouſand Figures of Water. Among the reſt, in one of theſe Grotto's there is an Orpheus playing upon his Harp, and with the motion of his Head and his Body keeping time to his Inſtrument. He is alſo attended by a great number of Beaſts that follow him, as being enchanted with the Melody of his Harp; which alſo draws after him Rocks, Trees and Plants. There is likewiſe Paradiſe, Hell, the Sea, and the Four Elements ſo livelily repreſented, that you would think your ſelf in ſome Enchanted Place.

About a League from St. Germans, upon one ſide of Paris, you meet with the Traytors Wood, divided into two parts by a ſpacious High-Way. The Branches which you break off from one ſide of this Wood ſink; but thoſe which you break off from the other ſide ſwim in the Water. In this Wood it was that the Perfidious Ganelon contriv'd his Treaſon againſt the Peers of France, and all the great Captains of Charlemagne, which was put in Execution at the Battel of Roncevaux, ſo fatal to France, in the Paſſage of the Pyreneans.

St. Clou is another very beautiful Royal Seat, belonging to Monſieur, the King's only Brother. It ſtands upon a Hill near the Banks of the River Seine, almoſt half way between Paris and Verſailles. The Paintings are very Noble, the Furniture very Rich, and the Cabinet of China; wherein there are an infinite number of Curioſities, and vaſt Riches, is worthy the Grandeur and Magnificence of the Prince to whom it belongs.

As for the Caſtle of Madrit, Francis I. caus'd it to be built in the Wood of Boulogne, in memory of his being carry'd a Priſoner into Spain; to let the Spaniards underſtand, that he held it for no ſhame to have been made a Priſoner of War at the Head of his Army; which had never befall'n him, had he contented himſelf to Command in his Cabinet, as the Kings of Spain do. They who believe this Caſtle to be built after the ſame form as that, where this Monarch was kept in durance, are much deceiv'd; for it is little or nothing like it. It is nothing ſo magnificent now as formerly; and the little care that is tak'n to repair it, ſhews that the King has no great Fancy for the Seat, nor minds whether it go to ruin or no.

The Caſtle of Vincennes is conſiderable, as being the Place where Priſoners of War of great Quality are Confin'd; and many times Priſoners of State; witneſs the Princes of Conde and Conti, and the Duke of Longueville, in the Time of Cardinal Mazarin. It is very large, and flank'd with Eight great Towers. Here are kept the Chains of the Streets of Paris; which Charles VI. took away after he had chaſtiz'd that City for her Rebellion.

Fountainbleau, is another Royal Seat, ſo call'd from the great number of Springs in that place. It lyes about Twelve Leagues from Paris: and in regard it is a Country proper for Hunting, the Court ſpends a great part of the Autumn in this Place. This Caſtle is very large, as being ſaid to contain Nine hundred Chambers, Halls, Cabinets or Galleries; where Art has quite exhauſted her ſelf to render every thing worthy the Reſidence of our Monarchs. At Fontainbleau it was where Marſhal Biron was diſarm'd by the King's Order; and where Cardinal Perron and the Sieur du Pleſſis-Mornai met in the Preſence of Hen. 4. to Diſpute upon Matters of Religion; which drew thither the moſt Learned of both Parties: and 'tis ſaid, that when the two Diſputants could not agree, the King addreſſing himſelf to the Cardinal, ask'd him, Whether all thoſe that were ſeparated from the Roman Church were damn'd? His Eminency and the reſt of the Catholick Doctors, aſſur'd him, That there was nothing more certain. After which, the K. demanding from thoſe of the Proteſtant Party, whether it were a Point of their Doctrine, that there was no Salvation for thoſe that were not of their Communion? They made anſwer, 'Twas none of their Opinion; for that they thought the Mercy of God might extend to all Men. That being ſo, reply'd the King, 'tis my Judgment to chooſe the Certainty before the Ʋncertainty: and ſo turn'd Roman Catholick.

Chantilli is a fair Seat belonging to Monſieur the Prince, whither the Court often goes for the Recreation of Hunting. It is an Epitome of Art and Nature. 'Tis obſerv'd, that Hen. IV. being to Anſwer a Letter which he had receiv'd from the K. of Spain, cramm'd full of Titles, not only of the Kingdoms which the Kings of Spain, and their Anceſtors poſſeſs'd, but of thoſe they never had; as alſo of Territories in the New World, not yet diſcover'd; took upon him no other Titles, but only Citizen of Paris, and Lord of Chantilli. And there is much the ſame Story of Francis I. who writeing to Charles V. fill'd the firſt Page with only theſe words repeated, King of France, King of France; adding only at the lower end, Lord of Ʋauvre and Goneſſe.

I ſhall ſay nothing of an Infinite Number of other Beautiful Seats and Houſes of Pleaſure in the Parts adjoyning to Paris, as Ruel, Meudon, Conflans, Seaux, &c. which are all fit for the Entertainment of Kings, whether in reſpect of their Bigneſs or Magnificence. It remains that I now ſay ſomething of St. Denis, the Burying-place of our Monarchs; for which I deſign a particular Chapter. Only before I conclude this, I muſt not omit to tell yee, that there is at Alincourt near Paris, the Tomb of a Mother and her Children that gave Occaſion to this Epitaph.

Here lyes the Son, here lyes the Mother, Here lyes the Daughter with the Father, Here lyes the Siſter and the Brother, Here lyes the Husband, here the Wife; All but Three Body's, on my Life.

To Expound this Riddle, you muſt know, That a certain Young Stripling importun'd his Mothers Maid to grant him you may gueſs what; who told her Miſtreſs, the Mother of the Young Man and a Widow. She order'd the Servant to give him a Meeting in her Chamber, where the Mother put her ſelf in place of the Maid; and having had the Company of her Son without diſcovering who ſhe was, at Nine Months end was brought to Bed of a Daughter; which ſhe put out till ſhe came to ſuch an Age, and then ſent for her home. The Son in the mean time had been Travelling for ſeveral Years, but then returning Home and finding the Young Virgin, which his Mother ſaid was an Orphan, to be very pretty, Marry'd her; and ſo of his Daughter and his Siſter made her his Wife. The Young Couple dy'd before the Mother, who then diſcover'd the Secret, and would needs be Interr'd in the ſame Tomb.

CHAP. XXII. Of St. Denis.

ST. Denis is a ſmall City in the Iſland of France, Six Miles from Paris. It was formerly call'd Catuliaca; but was call'd St. Denis, from St. Denis the Areopagite, who being Beheaded at Montmartre, carry'd his Head in his Hands as far as Catuliaque; that is to ſay, about a League and a half. King Dagobert Erected a very ſtately Church in this place, Three hundred Foot in Length, Two hundred Broad, and Fourſcore Foot High, ſupported by Sixty Pillars. 'Tis now a Royal Abby of the Benedictin Order; wherein are kept all the Ornaments for the Coronation of our Kings; which do not a little augment the Luſtre and Riches of the Treaſury of this Abby. The Church is alſo Famous for being the Burying-Place of our Monarchs, and of all the Royal Family. Here follows a Catalogue of the Kings and Queens whoſe Tombs are to be ſeen in the Church of St. Denis.

Dagobert, who dy'd in the Year 638 Clovis the Second. 656 Clotaire III. 664 Thieri I. 690 Clotaire IV. 720 Childeric III. a Monk. Pepin the Short. 768 Charles the Bald. 877 Lewis III. 882 Charlemane 884 Eudes. 898 Hugh Capet. 997 Robert. 1033 Henry I. 1060 Philip I. 1131 Lewis VI. 1137 Philip II. 1223 Lewis VIII. 1226 Lewis IX. Sirnam'd the Saint. 1270 Philip III. 1285 Philip IV. 1314 Lewis X. 1316 John I. 1316 Philip V. 1322 Charles IV. 1328 Philip VI. de Valois. 1350 John II. 1364 Charles V. 1380 Charles VI. 1422 Charles VII. 1461 Charles VIII. 1498 Lewis XII. 1515 Francis I. 1547 Henry II. 1559 Francis II. 1560 Charles IX. 1574 Henry III. 1589 Henry IV. 1610 Lewis XIII. 1643 A Catalogue of the Queens that lye Buried at St. Denis's. Nantild, the Wife of Dagobert. Bertha, the Wife of Pepin. Hermintrude, the Wife of Charles the Bald. Conſtance, the Wife of Robert. Margaret, the Wife of St. Lewis. Iſabel, the Wife of Philip III. Joane of Eureux, the Wife of Charles IV. Joane, the Wife of Philip VI. Joane, Queen of Navarre. Joane, Wife of Charles VI. Marie, Wife of Charles VII. Clandia, Wife of Francis I. Blanch, Second Wife of Philip VI. Ann of Bretaigne, Wife of Lewis XII. Catherine de Medicis, Wife of Hen. II. Margaret, Queen of Navarre. Mary de Medicis, Wife of Hen. IV. Ann of Auſtria, Wife of Lewis XIII. Henrietta Maria, Queen of England. Mary Tereſa of Auſtria, Wife of Lewis XIV. And, Marie Ann, Chriſtina, Victoria, Dauphineſs of France, who deceas'd in 1690.

I do not here inſert the Tombs of the Children of France, nor thoſe of the Princes and Princeſſes of the Blood, nor of thoſe of the Bodies of the Saints that lye in this Church, for fear of being too tedious; believing moreover, that the Reader will take more delight to peruſe the following Inventory of the moſt remarkable things that are to be ſeen in the Treaſury of St. Denis's, which makes ſo great a noiſe in the World, and which alone draws thither ſuch an infinite number of Forreigners.

Before I aſcend into the Room wherein this Treaſure is lockt up, there is to be ſeen above the Chief Altar, a Croſs of Gold ſeven foot high, enrich'd with Pretious Stones and Oriental Pearl.

A Table of Gold five foot long, and three foot high, in the middle of which is to be ſeen our Saviour in Relief, together with ſix Apoſtles and four Angels, the whole of Gold, enrich'd with Pretious Stones and Oriental Pearls, a Sea Agate, a Topaze, and two admirable Grenates.

Another Croſs of Gold ſix foot high, adorn'd with Pretious Stones.

CHAP. XXIII. Of Normandy, and the Country of Maine.

NOrmandy is a very fair large Province of France, with the Title of a Dukedom, bounded Eaſtward by the Iſland of France and Picardy; by the Ocean to the North; by Bretagne to the Weſt, and Beauſſe and le Maine to the South. The length of it is Seventy two Leagues (de la Croix ſays 73. from Aumale to the Coaſt of Courantin) and Thirty in breadth (37. ſays de la Croix from Alenſon to the City of Eu). The Name of it is abſolutely German; for Noort-Man, ſignifies a Man of the North: ſo that the Name it bears was given it by the People of the North, that Pipirated upon the Seas, and afterwards ſettl'd themſelves in Normandy, and ravag'd the Country to the very Walls of Paris. William the Norman laid Claim to England, and Invading it under Pretence of Title, his Succeſſors Kings of England, became Maſters of Normandy. But Philip the Auguſt united it to the Crown of France, & Charles the Seventh expell'd the Engliſh.

This Province being the moſt Northern part of the Kingdom is alſo the Goldeſt. It is divided into Upper and Lower. It abounds in all ſorts of Fruit, eſpecially Pears and Apples, of which they make Cider, and which ſerves 'em inſtead of Wine; for Wine they have none but what they fetch from the Neighbouring Provinces. As for Corn, it produces more then ſuffices the Inhabitants. The Dyers alſo have their Madder and Woad from thence. The Humour of the Common People does 'em no great Credit: They are look'd upon to have more defects then Perfections.

The Normans are accus'd to be very cholerick, litigious upon every Trifle, and not to be too great Slaves to their words, when their Intereſt is concern'd. So then, when you deal with a Norman, the firſt Queſtion is, whether he will inſiſt upon the Privileges of the Country; that is to ſay, whether he will go from his word, when the Bargain is concluded. And therefore when a Man has fail'd of his word, 'tis a common thing to ſay, He is a Norman. But the Gentry and Perſons well educated, who have a ſhare of Honour, are to be excepted out of this Number. Moreover, they have as great an Antipathy againſt the Bretons, as the Bretons have againſt them.

Rouen is the Principal City of Normandy, dignify'd with an Archbiſhop's See, and the Seat of a Parliament, a Chamber of Accompts, an Audit of the Treaſurers of France, a Chamber of Money and a Preſidial Court. The Parliament had that Name given it firſt of all by Francis I. in 1515. whereas before it was call'd the Court of Exchequer, founded by Philip the Fair in 1286. This City is ſeated upon the Banks of the River Seine, on the one ſide, on the other in a Valley environ'd with Hills thick ſpread with Wood. From the Eaſt come little Rivers, which run through the Town, keep the Streets clean, and after they have turn'd ſeveral Mills, fall into the Seine. But the nearneſs of it to the Sea, is that which makes it a Town of great Trade when Commerce is open. Among thoſe things which it has moſt remarkable, we are to admire the Bridge of Boats over the Seine, Two hundred and ſeventy Paces in length. For though it be all Pav'd, and appear as firm as a Bridge of Stone; yet it riſes and ſinks according to the Ebbing and Flowing of the Sea. This Bridge was made to ſupply the want of another Stone Bridge of 15 Arches that was ruin'd, and was accompted one of the Faireſt Bridges in France.

The Caſtle is fortified with Eleven great Towers, which all Veſſels outward or inward bound, are engag'd to ſalute with Three Guns at a time. The Fortifications are Regular and of good defence.

The Cathedral is conſecrated to the Holy Virgin; wherein are to be ſeen ſeveral Mauſoleum's of the Dukes of Normandy, with a Treaſury in the Veſtry; which was much more conſiderable before the Huguenots plunder's it during the Civil Wars of the laſt Age. There are three Towers that ſerve inſtead of a Steeple; one of which is ſo high, that you muſt aſcend Five hundred and fifty Steps, before you come at the great Bell, which is call'd George d' Amboiſe, by reaſon it was made by the Order of the Cardinal d' Amboiſe. Over the Portal of this Cathedral is to be ſeen a Triumphal Arch, where Henry IV. is repreſented chaſing the Lions and the Wolves out of his Sheep-Fold; the League enchain'd and gnawing her Chains; and the King of Spain beholding all theſe Trophies with a Penſive and Melancholy look.

There are very fair Structures at Rouen, as well Sacred as Prophane, which are marks of her Antiquity, and Strangers always go to ſee the Place where the Engliſh burnt the Maid of Orleance.

Normandy is bleſt with ſeveral other good Ports; as that of St. Valeri, which is a very Commodious Haven. But Diepe is much the Stronger. This City is ſeated at the Foot of the Mountains from whence the River of Arques takes its riſe; which ſeparates the Suburbs from the City. The Caſtle of Pollet Commands the Haven, and a Cittadel defends the other ſide of the Town. The Streets are large, adorn'd with ſeveral Churches and Market-Places. The Haven brings it a good Trade, and the Seamen have gain'd a Reputation in the World; for that the Beſt Sea-Compaſſes, and the moſt Exact Quadrants, are there ſaid to be made. The Inhabitants alſo were the firſt that wrought in Ivory and Tortoiſe-Shell. They are alſo Excellent and very quick at the Riming Exerciſes, call'd Jeux Floraux, where the beſt doer is rewarded with an Eglantine, the Second with a Marigold in Silver; which Sports are uſual in this Town at Chriſtmas, and the Feſtival of the Aſſumption.

Havre de Grace is alſo a conſiderable Sea Town, ſituated at the Mouth of the River Seine, and is lookt upon to be one of the Havens in France, upon St. George's Channel. Francis I. began to fortifie it; but the Huguenots having ſeiz'd it, deliver'd it up to the Engliſh in 1562. from whom Charles IX. retook it; Lewis XIII. added a Cittadel to it, flank'd with four Baſtions: But Lewis XIV. compleated the Work, and has made it impregnable by regular Fortifications. In times of Peace with England and Holland, it drives a great Trade.

Evreux is a very ancient City, dignify'd with a Biſhop's See, a Bailliage and a Preſidial Court, and adorn'd with a good number of Churches and Religious Houſes; among which, the Abbies of St. Thurin, and St. Saviour are very remarkable. Several Princes of the Blood, and other great Lords, have been Counts of Evreux; and it is ſaid, that Walter and Robert d' Evreux Earls of Eſſex in England, came originally from this place.

Caen, ſeated upon the River Orne, is not ſo famous for the Antiquity of it, as for the Privileges and Variety of Tribunals that it enjoys. For it is dignify'd with a Preſidial Court, a Bailliage, an Election, a Generality, an Audit of the Finances, and a Univerſity for the Civil and Canon Law there founded in 1411. by Hen. VI. King of England. It has had the ſame Fate with other Cities of Normandy, as having ſuffer'd very much during the Troubles that ſhook the French Monarchy in the 16th Age. However the Town-Houſe built upon St. Peter's Bridge is a noble Structure adorn'd with four large Towers. The People boaſt of their Fidelity to their Prince, for which reaſon they are permitted to bear the Three Flower-de-Luces in their Arms. William the Norman King of England, lyes Buried in St. Stephen's Abby, which was one of his own Foundations.

Mount St. Michael, is a Town built at the Foot of a Mountain, on the top of which ſtands a Church and an Abby conſecrated to St. Michael the Arch-Angel. For the Story goes, that in the Year 708. St. Michael appear'd to Aubert Biſhop of Avranches, and told him, 'Twas the Will of God that a Church ſhould be built upon the Hill, and dedicated to him in particular. Upon the ſame Mount ſtands alſo a very fair Caſtle. The flowing in of the Sea makes a perfect Iſland of it, covering for near a League together all the Land between the Mount and the firm Land; which the Ebb ſoon after leaves dry agen. Nevertheleſs, they who Travel thither, muſt be very exact in obſerving the Time of the Motion of the Water; for if they ſhould be ſurpriz'd in that ſandy Plain, they would run the riſque of being Drown'd; which many times falls out. This place is famous for the reſort of Pilgrims to St. Michael; and for the Sand of which they make Salt, by ſtraining the Sea-water through it. In 966, Richard I founded the Abby of the Benedictins, and his Son Richard II. finiſh'd the Church.

Maine is a Province dignify'd with the Title of a Dutchy, border'd by Normandy to the North; by Perche, Vendomois and La Beauſſe to the Eaſt; Bretagne to the Weſt; and by Tourain and Anjou to the South. This Province is fruitful in Wine, Corn, Fruit and Cattle; and has ſome Iron Mines. The ſame defects are attributed to the Manceaux, as to the Normans: and as to their exactneſs in keeping their words, it is become a Proverb, That a Manceau is worth a Norman and a half.

The Capital City of this Province is Mans, ſeated upon the Banks of the River Sarte, dignify'd with a Preſidial Court and a Biſhop's See. This City is very Ancient, and is thought to have been one of the moſt conſiderable Cities of the Gauls in the time of Charlemagne. It is ſaid to have been built by Sarthon, Grandchild to Samothes King of the Gauls; but being deſtroy'd by the Druids and the Sarrhonides, it was repair'd by Le Mant, K. of the Gauls; who gave it his own Name. But however it were, there is nothing now remaining but only ſome few Ruins of what formerly render'd it ſo famous.

CHAP. XXIV. Of Picardy.

PIcardy is a very large Province, having Champagne to the Eaſt; the Iſland of France to the South; Normandy and part of Mance or the Ocean to the Weſt; Artois and Flanders to the North. It is fertile in Corn and Fruits. But as for the People, 'tis ſaid they are generally hot-headed, and being apt to take Snuff upon every Trifle, Men are willing to avoid their Company for fear of running themſelves into Quarrels that are often attended with fatal Conſequences.

Amiens upon the Somme dignify'd with a Biſhoprick, a Preſidial Court, a Bailliage and a Generality, is the Capital City of Picardy, and has been taken ſeveral times in the preceding Wars: among the reſt, the Spaniards took it with a Bag of Nuts in the Month of March 1597. as the Learned M. Hardouin, formerly Tutor to the King, informs us in his Hiſtory of Henry the Great: For the Spaniards, then Maſters of Artois, underſtanding that Amiens was only guarded by the Citizens, laid a Deſign to ſurprize it. To which purpoſe, by the favour of the Night, they laid a Party of Souldiers in Ambuſcado near the City; and ſo ſoon as the Gates were open'd, they order'd other Souldiers, in the Habit of Peaſants, to drive ſeveral Carts to Market; of which one being laden with Nuts, they let a Sack fall, as if it had been by Accident, in the Gate; upon which the Nuts tumbling out, and the Guards being no leſs buſie upon the Scramble, the ſuppos'd Peaſants ſtopp'd up the Gate with their Carts, while the Spaniards that lay in Ambuſh advanc'd and ſeiz'd upon the City. But they did not keep it long; for Hen. IV. retook it by main force within a few Months after; and built a Cittadel to ſecure it for the future from the like Miſchances. There is now to be ſeen upon one of the Gates this Diſtich.

Amiens was taken by Fox-like Craft, and retaken by Lion-like Force.

The Cathedral is a Noble Structure; the Body of the Church being lookt upon to be the moſt beautiful in the whole Kingdom. It is dedicated to the Holy Virgin; and the Treaſury that belongs to it is very Rich; where among other things is preſerv'd the Head of John the Baptiſt in a Shrine ſet all with Pretious Stones, and brought from Conſtantinople by one Vallon de Sarton, a Gentleman of Picardy. The Pillars, the Quire, the Chappels, the Tombs, the Paintings, the Place for the Singing Men, the Portal, over which are two great Towers adorn'd with above a Thouſand Statues, are all admir'd by Travellers. In ancient time, Caeſar made it a Magazine for his Army; and held an Aſſembly of the Gauls in this City. The Emperor Antoninus and M▪ Aurelius, his Son, much enlarg'd it; and the Emperors Conſtantine, Conſtans, Julian, Valentinian, Valens, Gratian and Theodoſius made choice of it for the Place of their Reſidence among the Gauls. Queen Iſabel of Bavaria, ſettl'd a Parlament in this City; but now the Biſhop, the Vidame and the Bailli are Chief in Authority next the King.

The other Principal Cities of Picardy are Soiſſons, Laon and Noyen, all three Epiſcopal Sees. For the laſt of which the Huguenots have a great Veneration, as being the place of Calvin's Nativity.

Corbie, is a place of ſtrength ſurpriz'd by the Spaniards in 1636. but ſoon after regain'd by the French. And the Story goes, That being preſs'd by the K. of France's Army, the Spaniards wrote to Prince Thomas, then General of the Spaniſh Army in theſe words, Fiat miſericordia tua, Domine, ſuper nos, quemadmodum ſperavimus in te, Let thy Mercy be ſhewn us, Lord, as we have, put our Trust in thee.

Senlis is alſo an Epiſcopal City, with a Preſidial Court. In the Parts adjoyning to it, ſtand ſeveral ſtately Houſes of Pleaſure; as Vernueil, Chantilli, Dreux and Anet; which is a Palace becoming the Reſidence of a King, and whither the Dauphin often retires for the Paſtime of Hunting▪ Among the Wonders of this Caſtle, great Obſervation is to be taken of the Clock. For when it is ready to ſtrike, you ſhall ſee about Fifteen or Eighteen Hounds of Braſs come out and open with a full Cry; after which, follows a Stag of the ſame Metal, bigger then the life, and ſtrikes the Hour with his Foot.

Uſually Bourbonnois and the County of Oie is joyn'd to Picardy. The firſt owns Boulogne for the Capital City; the other Calais.

Boulogne is ſeated upon the Streight of Calais; being a Biſhop's See, with a County and a Bailliage. The Cathedral Church is conſecrated to our Lady; and to which the Kings of France, at their firſt coming to the Crown, are by Cuſtom oblig'd to offer a Heart of maſſy Gold, weighing 2000 Crowns. Lewis XI. was ſo devoted to the Holy Virgin, that he would needs have the Count of Artois hold of our Lady of Boulogne and not of him. In 1544. the Engliſh beſieg'd and took it, but it was reſtor'd again to the French, by the Peace concluded in 1550.

Calais is a Town ſeated upon the Narroweſt part of the Streight between England and France, built in a Triangular Form, defended by a good Caſtle, having no acceſs to it from the Land, but over a Cauſey that croſſes a great Marſh or Fenn; and you muſt have the Permiſſion of the Garriſon of Risban to enter the Port. The moſt remarkable things in this Town are the two Towers, the Altar of the great Church, the rich Tabernacle, and the ſtately Domo. It was tak'n by Edward III. of England, and remain'd in Poſſeſſion of the Engliſh 210 Years, till the Reign of Queen Mary. Hiſtory obſerves, that when the French had expell'd the Engliſh, one of the Duke of Guiſe's Officers cry'd to an Engliſh Man in a jeering manner, When will you come agen? To whom the other reply'd, When the Meaſure of your Sins is full, and that we are leſs Wicked then you. Intimating thereby, that the Engliſh would never ſet foot there agen, ſo long as the French Nation▪ continu'd well united to their Head.

Abbeville, ſeated upon the River Somme, is one of the ſtrongeſt and moſt Important Places of France. She has all along preſerv'd her Privileges, and is call'd the Faithful and the Maiden; becauſe ſhe was never taken. The Somme brings up Barks to the very Middle of the Town.

CHAP. XXV.

CHampaigne, dignify'd with the Title of an Earldom, is bounded by Lorrain and part of Franche Conté; to the Weſt it has Picardy and the Iſland of France; Burgundy to the South, and Hainault and Luxemburgh to the North. The Extent of it from North to South is 70 Leagues (67 ſays de la Croix) that is to ſay, from Ravieres to Rocroy; and from Weſt to South-Eaſt 47 Leagues. It abounds in Corn and Cattel; and the Wine which it produces, is extreamly deſir'd at the Tables of Princes and great Lords. The Champenois are ſomewhat Opinionated; nevertheleſs, they are irreconcileable Enemies of Libertiniſm and Impiety.

Rheimes, the Capital City of this fair Province may vaunt it ſelf to be one of the faireſt and moſt famous in the Kingdom. For her Archbiſhop has the Advantage of being the Firſt Duke and Peer of France. The Cathedral of this City is dedicated to our Lady, adorn'd with the moſt noble Front of any Cathedral in France, and the moſt admir'd for the Architecture, the Figures and Baſe Reliefs that render it ſo Gorgeous. In this Church it is that the Archbiſhop of Rheims Crowns the Kings of France with the Holy Oil, ſent from Heaven to Crown Clovis I. the Firſt King of France. The Antiquity of it appears by the Inſcriptions of the Names of the Pagan Deities upon the Gates, and Caeſar's Fort cloſe by the City; which is alſo the ſeat of a Preſidial Court, a Bailliage, and a Univerſity founded by Charles of Lorrain, Archbiſhop of the City by the Permiſſion of Hen. II. and the Approbation of Paul III.

Chalon's may paſs for the ſecond City of Champaigne for the beauty of the Streets, Market-Places, and Buildings, and the Antiquity of it; for that in the time of Julian the Apoſtate, it was look'd upon as one of the Principal Cities of Belgick Gaul. The Cathedral is remarkable for the Tower that adorns it very large and very high. There is alſo in this City a Generality and a Preſidial Court.

Troyes is another very fair City, and very Ancient, with a Preſidial Seat and a Bailliage. The Cathedral is conſecrated to St. Peter, wherein are preſerv'd many pretious Curioſities. Among the reſt, they pretend to ſhew yee ſome Locks of Chriſt's Hair; one of the Diſhes made uſe of at the Laſt Supper; a Tooth of St. Peter's; and the Body of St. Helena, which ſtill appears to be freſh.

Charleville has this peculiar to it, that though the Duke of Mantua be Soveraign Lord of the City; yet the Gates, the Walls, and the Caſtle of Mount Olympus belong to the King of France.

Sens, ſeated upon the Confluence of the Seine and the Yonne, is the Seat of an Archbiſhop; and a City both large, beautiful and very ancient. The Cathedral of St. Stephens is very remarkable for the Front of it, adorn'd with variety of Figures, and two Stately Towers; for the Largeneſs of the Body of the Church, for the Richneſs of the Chappels, the Antiquity of the Tombs, the Baſe of the Cheif Altar; where is to be ſeen upon a Table of Gold, enrich'd with a great Number of Pretious Stones, a Repreſentation of the Four Evangeliſts; and in the middle, a St. Steven kneeling. To this City alſo belongs a Preſidial Court, and a Bailliage.

There are ſeveral other Cities in this Province of Champaign, as Langres, Auxerre, &c. of which I omit to ſay any thing in particular, in regard I never propos'd to my ſelf to make a particular Deſcription of all the Cities of France, deſigning only an account of what is moſt worthy the Curious View of a Traveller.

CHAP. XXVI.

IN regard our Monarch has United the Dutchy of Lorrain to his Crown, whether by right of Conqueſt, or by vertue of a Donation and Reſignation which Charles III. made to His Majeſty in 1662, I find my ſelf bound to add in this place a ſhort Deſcription of it. It is bounded by Champaigne to the Weſt, by Luxemburgh to the North, by the Rhine to the Eaſt, and by Burgundy to the South. It extends it ſelf Forty Leagues from Eaſt to Weſt, and as many from South to North. It was the Allotment that fell to Lothair, who gave it his Name, and the Germans ſtill call it Luttheringe. The People have been always accompted Warlike, and at this day the Lorrainers are look'd upon to be good Souldiers.

Nanci, ſeated in the Middle of a Plain, with a Chamber of Accompts, and a Seneſchalſhip, is the Chief City of Lorrain; where formerly the Dukes kept their Courts.

The City of Metz is very Ancient, as being formerly the Capital of the Medromatrices; it is the Seat of a Biſhop, and Lewis XIII. honour'd it with a Parlament in 1633, which renders it the moſt Conſiderable of any in the whole Province. The Cathedral is Conſecrated to St. Stephen, where there is to be ſeen a Veſſel of Red Porphyrie, all of one piece, above Ten foot long, wherein the Holy Water is put.

This Province abounds in all ſorts of Cattle; and is furniſh'd with Salt-Pits. It affords alſo Mines of Iron and Lead; and at the foot of the Mountain Volege, the People find Pearls, Azure Stones, and Materials for good Looking-Glaſſes. Toul & Verdune are alſo both Biſhopricks. And this is all I have at preſent to ſay of Lorrain. For as for the Conquer'd Countries, I have a deſign, God willing, to treat of 'em in a Particular Volume, under the Title of The Conqueſts of Lewis the Great. I ſhall only obſerve, that under the Conquer'd Countries, I Comprehend Artois, Luxemburg, Hainault, the County of Namur, and part of Flanders; of which the Principal Cities are Arras, Cambrai, Tournai, Douai, Valenciennes, Liſle, Dunkirk, Luxemburgh, Mons and Namur; all which Impregnanable Places are in the hands of the French.

The End of the Firſt Tome.

CHAP. I. Of Italy in General.

ALthô above fourſcore Authors have wrote the Deſcription of Italy, nevertheleſs it is not known from whence it derives its Name. Some deduce it from Oxen or Bulls, which in the ancient obſolete Greek were called Itali; and for the feeding of which, Italy was then in high repute Others will have it ſo called from one Italus, one of the firſt Kings of the Country. It formerly bore the Names of Saturnia, Auſonia, Oenopia, and Heſperia, which it receiv'd from ſeveral Princes and renowned Captains that regin'd therein at ſeveral times.

This part of Europe is ſeated in the middle of the Temperate Zone, between the 28th Degree and a half and the 42d and a half of Longitude, and between the 37th Degree and a half and 48th and a half of Latitude.

It is bounded to the North by a ridge of Mountains called the Alpes, which ſeparate it from Germany and Switzerland; to the Weſt, by the Alpes alſo and the River Var, which divides it from France and Savoy; to the Eaſt, by the Mediterranean Sea, otherwiſe call'd the Adriatic Sea, or the Golph of Venice; and to the South, by the Tyrrhene or Tuſcan Sea. Where it is longeſt, to take it from the Frontiers of Savoy, to the fartheſt extremity of the Kingdom of Naples, it extends it ſelf about 280 French Leagues, or 450 Italian Miles. But the breadth of it is not all alike, ſometimes 30, in other places 40, 60, 80, and 100 French Leagues, reſembling a Boot, that ſeems to kick at Sicily, to force it into Africa.

Moſt Geographers divide Italy into four parts; the firſt comprehends the ancient Lombardy, wherein are contain'd, the States or Dominions of the Dukes of Savoy, Mantua, Parma, Modena, Milanois, the Republic of Venice, Genoa, and ſome other Petty Principalities. The ſecond includes the Eccleſiaſtical State, and Tuſcany. The third, the Kingdom of Naples. And the fourth, the Iſlands of Sardigna, Sicily, Corſica, &c.

The Air is very wholſome and very temperate over all Italy, except in the Eccleſiaſtical State, where certain malignant Fevers are very rife, and were much more frequent before the uſe of Ice in Summer to cool their Drink.

Italy produces in great plenty whatever is neceſſary for the ſupport of Human Life; as Corn, Oyl, Oranges, Citrons, Pomegranates, with all ſorts of Fruits and Flowers. There is to be found both Sugar and Cotton in the Kingdom of Naples; beſides great ſtore of Silkworms, very good Horſes and Bufalo's. The Mountains afford Mines of Sulphur, and ſeveral Quarries of Alablaſter, and all ſorts of Marble.

The principal Rivers that water it, are the Po, the Adige, Adda, Arno, and Tiber, which contribute not a little to the Fertility of it, from whence it is call'd, The Garden of Europe. The higheſt Mountains are the Alpes, the Apennine, which runs quite through the whole length of Italy, Mount Maſſo, Mount Barboro, Veſuvius, and Mount Gibello.

'Tis ſaid, the Italians are very wicked, or very honeſt and virtuous. The People are generally polite, obliging, quick of apprehenſion, ingenious, crafty, eloquent, politic, and want not worth, when they have once rid themſelves of a certain Reſervedneſs, which frequently begets 'em the Epithete of Knaves. Theſe good Qualities are accompanied with ſome bad ones, to which they are a little too much enclined: For they are jealous, quick of their promiſes, ſlow to perform; but above all, revengeful; inſomuch that many times Revenge deſcends from Family to Family.

The Italian Language is a kind of adulterated Latin, which the Goths, Huns, Vandals, Lombards, and other People inhabiting Italy, have much corrupted: Nor do they ſpeak it equally polite in all parts of the Kingdom. It is more refined in Tuſcany then any where elſe: but the Tuſcans do not pronounce it ſo well as the Romans; which is the reaſon of the Italian Proverb, Lingua Tuſcana in Bucca Romana. And it is obſerved, that the Italians ſpeak in the throat, the Venetians in the roof of the mouth, the Neapolitans between the teeth, and the Genoeſes between the Lips.

The Roman Apoſtolic Religion, is the only Religion allowed over all the States of Italy, wherein, for the preſervation of it, there are ſeveral Tribunals of the Inquiſition erected; not but that there are great numbers of Lutherans and Calveniſts ſettl'd upon the Sea-Coaſts, drawn thither by the conveniency of Trade: And thô the Magiſtrates know that they are departed from the Church, yet 'tis their intereſt to take no cognizance of it. The Jews enjoy much more freedom, and have their Synagogues even in Rome it ſelf, upon the Payment of an Annual Tribute. There are alſo Greeks and Armenians in ſome Cities, who perform their Church Worſhip according to the cuſtoms of their Country.

Hiſtory informs us, that after the Foundation of Rome, Italy was govern'd by Kings for the ſpace of 245 Years, and that Tarquin the Proud was the laſt of her Kings. That afterwards the Romans erected themſelves into a Commonwealth, which, under the conduct of Conſuls and Senarors, acquir'd Immortal Honour, as well for their Policy, as for an infinite number of Victories which they obtain'd over their Enemies. That Commonwealth laſted till the 706th Year of Rome, at what time Julius Caeſar was proclaim'd Emperor, and extended the Roman Empire in all the three parts of the World which were then known; for America was not diſcover'd in thoſe days. After this Empire had mounted to the higheſt period of its Grandeur, it declin'd in ſuch a manner, that it has left us a memorable Example of the inſtability and fleeting condition of all Earthly Grandeur. This formidable Empire being fallen to decay, was diſmember'd in the Reign of Honorius, who dy'd in the year of Chriſt 423, and 4176th after the Foundation of Rome.

Italy after this fell under the Dominion of the Emperors of Conſtantinople, who ſent thither their Viceroys or Governors under the Title of Exarchs, who kept their Court at Ravenna. But that Government, which began in the year of Chriſt 568, laſted not above 184 years, at what time thoſe Emperors were expell'd by the Kings of Lombardy. Afterwards, the Emperors of the Weſt conquer'd Italy; and the Kingdom of Lombardy was quite extinguiſh'd in 774, by Charlemain, who made great Preſents to the Holy See: that Monarch, and the Kings of France, his Succeſſors, being the only Princes who rais'd the Temporal Power of the Pope to that degree wherein we now behold it.

This part of Europe is at this day divided among ſeveral Potentates. That is to ſay, the Pope in the Eccleſiaſtical State: The King of Spain, who is of the Houſe of Auſtria, of the Branch of Burgundy, poſſeſſes the Kingdoms of Naples and Sicily, the State of Milan, and the Iſland of Sardigna. Theſe two Potentates are the moſt conſiderable in Italy; the next to them are, The Republic of Venice. The Republic of Genoa. The Republic of Luca. The Grand Duke of Tuſcany of the Houſe of Medici. The Duke of Savoy of the Houſe of Saxony. The Duke of Mantua of the Houſe of Gonzaga. The Duke of Parma of the Houſe of Farneze. The Duke of Modena of the Houſe of d'Eſte.

There are many other Sovereign Princes who have power of Life and Death over their Subjects, with abſolute authority to make War and Peace, and to coyn Money; but by reaſon of the ſmall Extent of their Territories, are call'd the Petty Princes of Italy. Such are, The Republic of St. Marin. The Biſhop of Trent. The Duke of Guaſtalla. The Duke of Sabionetta. The Count of Novelare. The Prince of Bozzolo. The Duke of Mirandola. The Prince of Monaco. The Prince of Maſſera. The Prince of Piombino. The Duke of Bracciano: And ſeveral others.

All the States of theſe Princes hold of the Church, or of the Emperor of Germany. Only the Territories of the Pope and the Republic of Venice are independent. 'Tis to be obſerv'd, that the States that hold of the Church, devolve to it again, if the Proprietors happen to die without Iſſue Male; the Daughters not being admitted to ſucceed their Fathers.

There are reckon'd to be in Italy 68 Principalities; 95 Dukedoms; an infinite number of Archbiſhoprics and Biſhoprics, and great ſtore of Univerſities; of which the moſt famous are thoſe of Padua, Venice, Turin, Pavia, Siena, Piſa, Bologna, Rome, Ferrara, Fermo, Macerata, Salerno, Naples.

The Principal Cities of Italy, are Rome, which is the Metropolis of the whole Country, term'd the Holy; next to that, Naples the Noble, Florence the Fair, Genoa the Proud, Milan the Great, Ravenna the Ancient, Venice the Rich, Padua the Learned, and Bologna the Fat.

It remains that I ſhould ſpeak of ſome Cuſtoms that are general in Italy. In regard the Coaſts of Italy upon the Mediterranean Sea are much infeſted by the Pyrates of Barbary, who often Land there, and carry away the Inhabitants in the Country with the beſt of their Goods, there are little Forts built all along the Coaſts, about a mile diſtance one from another; more eſpecially upon the Riviera di Genoa, and upon the Coaſts of Naples and Sicily, where ſix men keep Garriſon with two Pieces of Cannon to prevent Deſcents. Theſe Guards every night kindle one or two Fires upon the neighbouring Mountains. When there is but one, it is call'd a Fire of Aſſurance, as being a ſign that no Turkiſh Brigantine has appear'd all that day. But if they kindle two ſome Paces off one from another, 'tis to give notice to the Inhabitants to ſtand upon their Guards, and that they have ſeen ſome Pirates ſounding where to get aſhore. Thoſe Fires they call Fires of Miſtruſt.

The Italians never tell the Clock as other People of Europe do. They begin to tell One at the cloſe of the Day; ſo that the Hours of Noon and Midnight alter higher or lower according to the Seaſons. For Example, the 12th of Auguſt which we reckon to be Noon in France, the Italians count it 17 a clock, and 24 when the Sun diſappears. They keep a man at their principal Clocks, who, when the Clock has ſtrook, with a Hammer ſtrikes as many times upon the ſame Bell as the Clock ſtrook; that if any one were miſtaken in telling the firſt time, he may not fail to tell right the ſecond.

'Tis alſo a uſual thing to be robb'd upon the High way, more eſpecially near any Garriſon Towns; but moſt of all in the Territories of the King of Spain. Nor is there any truſting to the Guards which are granted to thoſe that deſire 'em, becauſe thoſe Guards many times ſhare the Booty with the Thieves, who for the moſt part diſguiſe themſelves in the Habit of Pilgrims or Hermits.

Neither Wives nor Maids ſtir out of Doors unleſs it be to Church, or at leaſt very ſeldom; and when they do, they are attended by ſome Spy which their jealous Parents or Husbands ſend along with 'em to watch 'em. That Sex never appears either in Shops or Markets; for the Men drive all the Trade. Marriages are uſually celebrated by Proxies; and many times the Man and the Woman never ſee one another till they come before the Prieſt to be married. When Maſs is ſaid in Italy, only the Men riſe up at the Goſpel.

I could relate many more things of Italy in General; but I reſerve 'em for the ſeveral Chapters of each particular State, to which they more properly belong.

CHAP. II. Of the States of the Duke of Savoy.

THE Dukes of Savoy deſcend from the Houſe of Saxony, one of the moſt ancient and moſt illuſtrious Families of Germany. 'Tis above a thouſand years ſince that they have been in Sovereign Poſſeſſion of Piemont and Savoy, and no leſs then five Emperors and four Kings have deſcended from it. The Duke of Savoy bears a Crown faſten'd over his Arms, ever ſince Charlote de Luſignan Queen of Jeruſalem, Cyprus and Armenia, being driven out of her Kingdom by her Baſtard Brother, and flying for Refuge to Rome under the Pontificate of Sixtus IV. where ſhe died in 1489, bequeath'd all her Pretenſions to Cyprus, in the preſence of the Pope and ſeveral Cardinals, to Charles Duke of Savoy her Nephew. Nevertheleſs, he is not addreſs'd to by the Title of Majeſty, but only of His Royal Highneſs, and Perpetual Vicar of the Holy Empire in Italy.

The Duke of Savoy, upon a ſtreſs of neceſſity, may be able to bring into the Field about 30000 Foot, and 5000 Horſe. His fixed Revenue in time of Peace amounts to Six millions fourſcore and eighteen thouſand Livres of Piemont. But that Livre not being worth above five French Sols, that Sum amounts to no more then to Four millions five hundred forty three thouſand ſix hundred Livres of our money.

Althô the Duke of Savoy coins Piſtols, Ducatoons, Pieces of Six Sols, and other ſmall Money, however the Pieces of France and Spain go currant in his Country. The French Crowns go there for-ſeventy two Sols, and the other Pieces proportionably. But nothing is ſo much talk'd if in Piemont as Florins; which is a chimerical ſort of money like our Livres of France, the Florin not being worth above twelve Sols, and the Ducatoon goes in Piemont for 84 Sols.

As for the manners of the Savoyards and Piemontois, the Nobility are endow'd with all the Qualities requir'd in Perſons of their Rank. The People are laborious, and naturally very affable, good Husbands, ſober, and fit to undergo any ſort of Hardſhip; but they have no great inclination to War.

The Dukes of Savoy have always appear'd very zealous for the Catholic Religion, which has often induc'd 'em to make uſe of their Power to conſtrain their Subjects in the Vallies of Vaudois to return to the Boſom of the Church, from whence they departed in the laſt Age. The Duke now reigning is the only perſon that brought his deſign to paſs, by forcing the moſt obſtinate in their Religion to leave their Habitations, and to retire into Switzerland and Germany. But two years after, in 1689. he recall'd 'em to ſerve in his War againſt France, and permits 'em the free Exerciſe of their Religion.

The Government of Savoy is purely Monarchical; and the Salic Law takes place there as well as in France, for the Daughters never inherit the Sovereignty. For want of Male Iſſue, the Succeſſion appertains to the next of kin to the Duke, of the Maſculine Line.

Savoy was erected into a Dukedom by the Emperor Sigiſmund, in favour of Amadeus, the 8th Count of Savoy. Thô the Country be altogether Mountainous, yet it abounds in very fertile Valleys. The principal Cities in it are Chamberi, Nice. and Villa Franca, which are now reduc'd under the Dominion of France, together with all the reſt of the Province, which is bounded to the North by the River Rhine and the Lake of Geneva; to the Eaſt, by Switzerland and Piemont; to the South, by the Dauphinate; and to the Weſt, by the Rhine, which ſeparates it from La Breſs and Burgundy.

Piemont is another Province of the States of Savoy, ſo called from the ſituation of it at the foot of the Alpes. The eldeſt Sons of the Princes of Piemont bear the Title of Dukes of Piemont. This Province is much more fertile then Savoy; being bounded to the Eaſt by Milanois and Montferrat; to the South, by the Republic of Genoa, and the County of Nice; by Savoy and the Dauphinate to the Weſt; and Le Velais to the North.

Turin is not only the Capital City of Piemont, but of all the Duke's Territories, where he alſo keops his Court. It is ſeated in a fertile Plain, between the Rivers Po, and Doire. It is ſecur'd by a Citadel with five good Baſtions, furniſh'd with all things neceſſary for the defence of it. Nevertheleſs the French took it, with an Army far inferior to that of the Spaniards who defended it. During the Siege, the Spaniards threw in Powder, Letters, &c. by the aſſiſtance of a Mortar, invented by a Fleming, which for that reaſon was call'd, The Courier Cannon.

The City of Turin is adorn'd with an Archbiſhopric and a Univerſity, wherein all Sciences are profeſs'd, and it boaſts it ſelf to be the firſt City of Italy where Printing was made uſe of. The chiefeſt Curioſity in Turin moſt worthy the Obſervation of a Traveller is the Citadel, wherein there is a Well to be admir'd for the largeneſs of it, and the conveniency of watering a great number of Horſes without any trouble; for they aſcend one way, and deſcend another.

The Ducal Palace is magnificent for the Furniture of it, as well for the Winter as for the Summer. Among the Rarities which are ſhewn to Strangers, there is a Chariot of Maſſie Gold, having ſix Horſes of the ſame Metal ſpang'd to it, and enchas'd all over with precious Stones. There is alſo a little Caſtle of Gold, with Artillery and Fortifications of the ſame Metal. There is beſides an Engin, that carries her Royal Highneſs from her Chamber to her Baths, with a ſingle Pulley, by the favour of a Counterpoiſe, and that with all the ſafety and eaſe imaginable.

The Cathedral Church of Turin is very ſtately; wherein is kept the ſacred Sudary, in which the Face and part of the Body of our Saviour are imprinted. They aſſure ye, that is the ſame wherein the Saviour of the World was ſhrouded before he was laid in the Sepulchre of Arimathea, and that it was brought into Savoy by the Daughter of John King of Cyprus and Jeruſalem, who marry'd Lewis of Savoy. But that which raiſes a greater Conteſt is this, that they ſhew ye ſuch another Sudary at Beſanton, the Capital of Franche Conte.

They whoſe Curioſity leads 'em to ſee the Tomb of Clement Marot, the famous Poet and Valet de Chambre to Francis the Firſt, will find it at Turin. For that having been baniſh'd for his irregular Life from the Court of France, he went to Geneva, from whence he was alſo expell'd for his looſe Living, and retiring to Turin, died in 1544, in the 60th year of his Age. Althô he underſtood neither Hebrew, Greek, nor Latin, nevertheleſs he Tranſlated one part of David's Pſalms into French Verſe, which are ſung by the Proteſtants at this day, both in Holland, Germany, and Switzerland. And notwithſtanding that the more Learned among them agree, that he obſerv'd little exactneſs, and that there are many Verſions much better, both for the Senſe and the Poetry, yet Marot's are ſtill preferr'd before all others, perhaps becauſe he was cenſur'd by the Sorbon in the Reign of Francis the Firſt. Marot was born at Cahors in Querci, and after his death the following EPITAPH was made upon him:

Querci, the Court, Piemont and all the Earth, Bred, Fed, Enterr'd me, knew my Worth. Querci my Love, the Court had all my Time, Piemont my Bones, and all the Earth my Rhime.

The Duke has alſo ſeveral Houſes of Pleaſure in the parts adjoyning to Turin, of which the chiefeſt are Parc, Valentin, and Mille fleurs; but they have all ſuffer'd very much through the Violences of the War, as well as the reſt of Piemont.

Suza is one of the principal Cities of Piemont, by the Romans call'd Seguſium, which was one of Pompey's Colonies, who was the firſt that open'd the paſſage of Mount Genevre. It has undergone however ſeveral Calamities upon ſeveral occaſions. Hiſtory informs us that Conſtantine the Great caus'd it to be plunder'd and then burnt. In a ſecond Conflagration which it ſuffer'd through the provok'd fury of the Emperor Frederick Barbaroſſa, all the Records and Rolls of the Houſe of Savoy were conſum'd. This City is conſiderable for the ſituation of it, in regard it ſhuts up one of the principal Inlets of France into Italy However the French have forc'd it ſeveral times; more eſpecially at the beginning of this Age, though the Duke of Savoy had rais'd a dozen Barricado's in the Defiles, which defended one another; and in our time the King's Armies clear'd their way through it, and are ſtill in poſſeſſion of it. There are ſtill to be ſeen at Suza very fair Remains of a Triumphal Arch, which ſome ſay was erected by the Goths, others by the Romans; though others are of Opinion that they are the Ruines of the Trophies rear'd by the Emperor Auguſtus 740 years after the building of Rome, and 14 before the Birth of our Saviour.

Nice is the Capital City of a County of the ſame name, which was formerly included within Provence, and which Amadeus the Seventh uſurp'd from Joan Counteſs of Provence, at the ſame time that ſhe was buſi'd in pacifying the Troubles of Naples. To palliate which Uſurpation, the Dukes of Savoy alledge, that Ioland, the Mother and Nurſe of Lewis the Third, Count of Provence, and King of Naples, ſurrendred that County to Amadeus of Savoy in 1419, in compenſation for the Sum of 160000 Livres, which he pretended to be due to him from his Pupil. But beſides that that Sum was never due, nor a ſufficient Equivalent giv'n for that County, Ioland had no power to grant away the Territories of her Son, thô the Duke's Pretenſions had been juſt. However it were, both the City and the County are now in the hands of the French; Catinat making himſelf Maſter of the Cities of Nice and Villa Franca at the beginning of the year 1691.

The City of Nice was founded by the Inhabitants of Marſeilles, who made it one of their Colonies: And it was enlarg'd out of the Ruins of Cemella, the Biſhopric of which place was tranſlated to Nice, It is a Town of great Trade, wherein are ſtill to be ſeen ſome Remainders of an Amphitheatre erected in Honour of the Romans, and ſome Footſteps of a Temple of Pluto, and another dedicated to Juno. The Citadel is built upon a ſteep Rock, and is look'd upon as one of the ſtrongeſt Forts in Europe. The Turks beſieg'd it in the year 1543, but were forc'd to leave it. The Cathedral Church is dedicated to St. Repareus.

The Cities of Chamberi, Montmelian, and Villa Franca, together with the Cities of Caſal and Pignerol, are already deſcribed in the Sixth Chapter of the Firſt Volume of theſe Voyages.

CHAP. III. The State of Milan.

MIlanois is a Province of Italy with the Title of a Dukedom, ſeated in the moſt beautiful Country of all Lombardy. The Soyl is ſo fertile in Corn, Wine, and all manner of Fruits, that it bears twice a year. The Highways are all drawn in a Line, with a Canal of Running Water on each ſide, which, beſides the Ornament of it, ſerves for the Tranſportation of Goods and Merchandize from the adjoyning Countries. The Goodneſs and Fertility of the Country procur'd it formerly the Envy of many, and made it the Seat of cruel Wars. The Revenues of it in time of Peace may amount to Two Millions and Four hundred thouſand Crowns; which Sum is advanc'd a third part in time of War. This State is ſo numerouſly Peopl'd, that in caſe of neceſſity it is able to bring above 50000 men into the Field. Nevertheleſs, the King of Spain is ſo ill ſerv'd, that the Officers only make the benefit of the Revenue, and his Catholick Majeſty is conſtrain'd to ſend conſiderable Sums for the payment of 20000 Men which he maintains in the Country.

Beſides the Spaniſh Money, and the Genoeſe Coyn that goes currant in Milanois, the Mint ſends forth alſo Philipins, Ducatoons, Creuſons, Parbayolles, and Seſins. A Philipin contains the value of 6 Livres 6 Sols of the Country; the Ducatoon, 7 Livres; the Creuſon, 5 Livres 10 Sols; the Parbayolle, 2 Sols and a half, or 5 Seſins, which is a ſmall Copper Coyn, two of which make a Sol. The Milanois Livre is worth about 10 Sols of France.

Milan, an Archiepiſcopal City, is the Metropolis of the Duchy, built by the Gauls when they ſettl'd in Italy about the year 170, after the building of Rome. The Romans expell'd 'em thence 462 years after. This Country was often expos'd to the Incurſions of the Barbarians, the Goths, and Huns; and after that, was ſubdu'd by the Lombards, who poſſeſs'd it till the Reign of Charlemain, who made it a part of the Empire. By degrees this City became ſo powerful, that ſhe commanded all her Neighbours; and her Pride ſwell'd to that height, that ſhe ſeveral times rebell'd againſt her Sovereigns. The Emperor Frederic the Firſt was conſtrain'd to make uſe of Force to reduce her to Obedience, which he brought to paſs in 1160; and ſoon after the Empreſs his Wife going to Milan, the People roſe, out the throats of the Imperial Garriſon, and ſeizing upon the Empreſs, ſet her upon an Aſs with her face toward the Tail, which they gave her in her hand in ſtead of a Bridle, and ſo led her through the whole City. The Emperor juſtly incens'd at ſuch a piece of Inſolence, beſieg'd the City, and forc'd it to ſurrender at Diſcretion the 3d of March, 1162. Which done, he levell'd it with the Earth all but three Churches, drew a Plough over the whole, and ſow'd it with Salt, as an Eternal Memorial of Reproach and Infamy upon the People, who had no way to redeem their Lives, but by drawing with their Teeth a Fig out of the Fundament of the Aſs upon which they had ſet the Empreſs; and they that refus'd to do it were put to the Sword.

Nine years after the City was rebuilt, and roſe by degrees in ſuch a manner, that now it is call'd the Great. The Duchy of Milan is claim'd by the Kings of France, upon account that John Galeazzo, firſt Duke of Milan, having given his Daughter Valentina in marriage to Lewis of France Duke of Orleans, Second Son of Charles the Fifth, ſurnamed the Wiſe, it was covenanted by the Articles of the Contract, That if the ſaid John happen'd to dye without Male Iſſue, the Duchy of Milan ſhould deſcend to Lewis his Son-in-Law, and his Succeſſors. So that John-Maria and Philip-Maria dying without Legitimate Offspring, the Succeſſion belong'd without diſpute to Charles Duke of Orleans, the Son of Lewis. Charles the Fifth was not ignorant of this Pretenſion, when he promis'd Francis the Firſt, King of France, to give him the Inveſtiture of it for one of his Sons, at the Sollicitation of the Electors of the Empire. But taking the advantage of his Power, and the diſorders of France, the Emperor was ſo far from ſtanding to his word, that he gave the Inveſtiture to Philip the Second, his own Son; and ever ſince the Kings of Spain have poſſeſs'd that Duchy.

It is obſerv'd, that the City of Milan has been beſieg'd 40 times, taken 22; that it has 22 Gates, including thoſe belonging to the Suburbs; 230 Churches, 96 Pariſhes, and that it is 10 miles in circuit. It has a Senate, conſiſting of a Preſident and twelve Senators, of which three muſt be natural Spaniards. There is in it ſo great a number of Handicraft Tradeſmen, that 'tis commonly ſaid, That Milan ought to be ruin'd to accommodate Italy. This City is defended by a Caſtle fortifi'd with ſix Baſtions lin'd with Brick, and environ'd with Moats of running Waters. There are three different Incloſures able to make great Reſiſtance; for which reaſon it is look'd upon to be one of the beſt Fortreſſes of Europe. It is about a mile in compaſs, containing whole Streets, wherein all manner of Artificers keep their ſhops. It alſo includes large Palaces, where the Officers lodge; and ſeveral Piazza's, in one of which 6000 men may be drawn up in Battel-array. There are in it likewiſe four Wells or Fountains, which are never empty; one Mill, above 200 Pieces of Cannon mounted upon the Baſtions, not counting in thoſe which are in the Arſenal, which is furniſh'd with all manner of Arms. In one Hall of the Caſtle is to be ſeen the Cannon that kill'd Marſhal Crequi when he beſieg'd Breme, which is laid upon the Ground, to the end it may never be made uſe of again.

The Cathedral Church, which is call'd the Domo, is the largeſt and moſt ſuperb in all Italy, except St. Peter's in Rome; being lin'd with Marble within and without, ſuſtain'd with 60 Columns of white Marble, which three men can hardly fathom, the leaſt of which coſt 1000 Crowns; thoſe of Adam and St. Bartholomew are the beſt eſteem'd: The whole Church is about 250 Paces long. In St. Anthony's Church is to be ſeen a Brazen Serpent, which they would make you believe to be the ſame that Moſes lifted up in the Deſert; and that the Emperor Theodoſius brought it to Milan.

Strangers go to ſee the Great Hoſpital at Milan, conſiderable for the largeneſs and magnificence of it, the conveniency of the Building, and the good order of the Government. It is endow'd with a Revenue for the maintenance of above 4000 Perſons. The Chambers of the Sick are built in form of a Croſs, with an Altar open on four ſides in the middle, where the ſick People go to ſay Maſs at their going to bed. Beſides this Hoſpital, there is another upon the Moat of the City, wherein there are as many Chambers as there are Days in the Year.

There are to be ſeen at Milan the Ruins of Triumphal Arches, Baths, and other Roman Edifices; and the Church of St. Lanrence, built after the Model of the Roman Pantheon, was a Temple dedicated to Hercules. In former times the Emperors were crown'd at Milan with an Iron Crown, and at Alexandria in the ſame Province with a Crown of Straw.

The other Cities belonging to this Duchy are Coma, Cremona, Tortona, Lodi, Novara, Valencia, Pavia, &c. which are all conſiderable in ſome reſpect or other; but my purpoſe is to ſpeak of Milan and Pavia only, which are the principal.

Pavia, regularle fortified, is ſeated in a Plain upon the River Tecino. In the Cathedral is to be ſeen a ſmall Maſt of a Ship, which the People believe to be Rowland's Lance, who was Nephew to Charlemain. St, Auſtin's is remarkable for the Tomb where that Saint lies Enterr'd. In the Grand Piazza ſtands a Statue of the Emperor Conſtantine, though ſome will rather have it to be the Statue of the Emperor Antoninus. It ſtood formerly at Ravenna, from whence it was remov'd to Pavia. And Hiſtory obſerves upon this Subject, that Laurec the French General having taken that City by ſtorm in 1527, a Soldier of Ravenna, who enter'd firſt, deſir'd of his General that Statue for his Reward, to the end he might ſend it back to Ravenna. But the Inhabitants being more afflicted with that loſs, then the loſs of their Eſtates which the Soldiers were juſt going to plunder from 'em, or the Lives of their Country-men, made ſuch lamentable Outcries, that they mov'd the Victor to let 'em have their Statue for a Crown of Gold, which he engag'd 'em to give the Soldier. The City of Pavia is adorn'd with a Univerſity, founded by Charlemain, who, in 734, took the City, and Didier, the laſt King of the Lombards, Priſoner. In 1525, Francis the Firſt having laid Siege to Pavia, and ſent a part of his Army to Naples, Charles the Fifth taking advantage of that Diverſion, gave him Battel, which prov'd ſo fatal to France, that the King was taken Priſoner, and carry'd into Spain. 'Tis obſerv'd, that this happen'd upon St. Matthias's day, a day always fortunate to that Emperor. For he was born upon that day, and receiv'd the Imperial Crown upon that day.

CHAP. IV. Of the Republic of Genoa.

THE State of Genoa, is a Fief of the Empire which poſſeſſes that part of the Mediterranean Coaſt, which we call La Riviera di Genoa, and which was heretofore the Country of the ancient Ligurians. This Republic carries the Name of The Capital City, which ſome will have to derive the Name of it from Janus. At this day it is divided into the Weſtern and the Eaſtern Riviera; being bounded by the River Magro to the Eaſt, by the Principality of Monaco to the Weſt, the Mountains of Piemont and Milanois to the North, and the Liguſtic Sea to the South.

The Maritime Force of this Commonwealth conſiſts in Armed Gallies, and two Men of War carrying between 60 and 70 Guns apiece, for the ſecurity of Trade. Upon a caſe of Extremity they can bring into the Field 30000 Foot. There are about 69000 Souls in the City of Genoa, 80000 in the Eaſtern Riviera, and about 113000 in the Weſtern Riviera. The Revenues of this Republic amount to 1200000 Crowns, but in regard the moſt part of it is engag'd for the Debts of the State, there remains not above 150000 Livres, as I have learnt from the moſt exact Memoirs drawn up by a Perſon, who by reaſon of his Employment was perfectly well acquainted with the Finances of the Republic.

The Money ſtamp'd with the Arms of Spain goes currant in the State of Genoa, when it is Weight. Nevertheleſs, the Republic coins Piſtolets, Genoeſes, Piaſters, Reals, and ſome other ſmall Money. The Spaniſh Piſtole is worth 17 Livres 16 Sols, which is as much as 3 Piaſters; one Genoeſe goes for 3 Piaſters and a half. The Piaſter of Perou, which weighs a French Crown, is worth 4 Livres 16 Sols: So that a French Livre amounts to 32 Sols of Genoa.

The Genoeſes are very expert in Sea-Affairs, and have contributed very much toward all the Enterprizes that have been undertaken for the Conqueſt of the Holy Land. In former times they won from the Infidels the Kingdoms of Corfu, Sardinia, and Cyprus; as alſo the Iſlands of Metelite and Chio; and have been Maſters of the Cities of Coffa and Pera. 'Tis true, that at preſent they are deſpoil'd of all theſe Countries except Corſe, from whence they have no other advantage but that of a Royal Crown affixed over the Arms of the Republic, and the Title of Moſt Serene. The Genoeſes are proud and inconſtant; of which, the ſundry ſorts of Government which they have admitted within theſe few years are an uncontroulable Proof. At preſent they keep much to the humour of the Spaniards, even to an Affection of their Habit. Nor are they belov'd by the reſt of the People of Italy, among whom theſe Characters of the Genoeſes are very common. Gente ſenza Fide, Mare ſenza Peſce, Monte ſenza Legno, & Donna ſenza Veregogna. A people without Faith, a Sea without Fiſh, Mountains without Wood, and Women without Modeſty.

The Genoeſes differ from the Spaniards in this, that they are much addicted to Trade and Labour. The Gentlemen drive a Trade in all manner of Stuffs, which they ſell by Wholeſale; for they are not permitted to ſell by Retail, nor to keep Shops. 'Tis a cuſtom in Genoa, That the Parties never ſign the Acts which are paſs'd before the Public Notary, who by this means are the Maſters of the Eſtates and Tranquility of Families. Nor do the Witneſſes ſign their Depoſitions, neither are they brought Face to Face with the Parties accus'd. The Nobility are not to have either directly or indirectly any private Communication with any Foreign Miniſters.

When a Stranger arrives at Genoa, he is oblig'd to give in his Name to the Commiſſioners appointed, from whom they have leave to remain four days in the City, without which they would not be admitted into any Inn. And it is obſervable, that if a Man be not very careful to carry this Permiſſion about him, and to renew it in caſe he intends to ſtay any longer, he is in danger to be ſeiz'd by the Sbirri, and condemn'd to a Forfeiture of 5 Piſtoles.

When they proceed to the Election of Senators, ſeveral perſons put Money into that which is call'd the Seminary, as into a Lottery: And they who have the good fortune to divine who will be the five Senators, whoſe Names are firſt drawn, among a hundred and twenty, out of a ſmall Box by a little Boy, ſuch is the multiplication of the Money at that ſort of Play, that a Man who has ventur'd 10 Piſtoles, may win between 7 and 800. Which thô it rarely falls out, yet the Accident is not without Example.

The Genoeſes wear Fardingales, which is the reaſon that they frequently embarraſs one another when they meet in the Streets, which are very narrow. One day, a Lady made uſe of her Fardingale to get her Son out of Priſon: He was about 18 years of Age, and was condemn'd to die. His Mother having leave to viſit him in order to the taking of her laſt Leave of him, put him under her Petticoat, which was born up by a circle of Steel in ſtead of Whalebone, and two Women leading her as ſhe went along, according to the cuſtom of Italy, ſhe got home, and was deliver'd without the help of a Midwife, and the ſame day ſent away her Child as far as Marſeilles to Nurſe. The moſt part of the Houſes in Genoa are built with Terraſſes at the top, where the Women go to dry their Hair after they have waſh'd 'em, to make 'em look yellow.

There is no State in Europe that has ſubmitted to ſo many ſorts of Government, as that of Genoa. Not to make an exact Enumeration of 'em, I ſhall only acquaint ye, That they were firſt ſubjected to the Romans, afterwards to the Lombards, and then to the Emperors. 'Tis obſerv'd, that from the year 1454, to 1528, Genoa has been under twelve ſorts of Government. She has been rul'd by Conſuls, Podeſta's, Captains, Governors, Lieutenants, Rectors of the People, Abbots of the People, Reformers, Dukes both Noble and Popular, &c.

The Kings of France have been in poſſeſſion of Genoa at ſeveral different times. In 1396, this City was ſurrender'd to Charles VI. and in 1409, the Inhabitants maſſacred the French, and put themſelves under the Marquiſs of Montferrat. Four years after they choſe Dukes. In 1421, they ſubmitted to the Duke of Milan. But in 1436, being weary of that Government, they made choice of Dukes again, who govern'd 'em till 1458, at what time they gave themſelves into the Hands of Charles VII. King of France. In 1461, the French were expell'd to make way for the Popular Dukes, of whom there were five ſorts in three years. After which the City ſurrender'd it ſelf to Francis Forza Duke of Milan, who was expell'd in 1478, after which they had Dukes till 1488▪ and then the Duke of Milan took poſſeſſion of it again.

Hiſtory informs us, that the Genoeſes having ſent Ambaſſadors to Lewis XI. King of France, with Offers to ſurrender themſelves into his hands; that Monarch, who foreſaw how little reaſon they had to rely upon the Faith of a People ſo inconſtant and ſubject to rebel, return'd 'em for Anſwer, That if they gave their City to him, he would give it to the Devil. However it were in 1499, Lewis XII. took Genoa by Aſſault, and had reſolv'd to ruin it by Fire and Sword. But the Inhabitants having laid about four thouſand ſmall Children in the Grand Piazza that cry'd out for Mercy, The King touch'd with compaſſion, pardon'd the Parents in favour of the innocent Children. But the People growing never the better for it, revolted in 1506; the French retook it in 1507, and were expell'd again in 1512. The next year they got poſſeſſion of it once more, and remain'd Maſters of it till 1522, at what time the City was taken and pillag'd by the Army of Charles V. Francis I. reconquer'd it in 1527; but the next year Andrew Doria, a Genoeſe, who commanded the French Fleet, revolted, and betraying his King and his own Honour, made uſe of the Forces of the French Crown to deliver Genoa from the Dominion of France; and ſince that time it has been govern'd by a Senate, of which the chief, who is call'd the Duke, is chang'd every two years.

This new Government is Ariſtocratical: The Duke is aſſiſted with eight Senator-Governors, and four Procurators; two of which, in their turns, lodge with him in the Ducal Palace four months in the year: And this is that which is call'd the Senate. But the Baſis and Foundation of the Republic reſides in the Grand Council, compos'd out of 400 Gentlemen choſen out of the ancient and new Nobility. This Council deliberates joyntly with the Duke and the Senators of whatever concerns Peace or War. There are alſo two ſorts of Noble Families, which are diſt • nguiſh'd by Antiquity and new Creation; the number of the firſt is no more then 28, the others are in all 437; and the Duke and the Senators are choſen alternatively out of theſe two ſorts of Nobility.

Philip II. King of Spain, and his Succeſſors, out of a Proſpect purely politic, have inſenſibly faſten'd the Genoeſes to their Intereſts, by borrowing vaſt Sums of Money. Philip II. borrow'd two Millions of this Republic, which was never repay'd: Quite the contrary this Sum has been ſo multiply'd, as well by new Loans, as by the Intereſts added to the Principal, that it has occaſion'd a common Saying, That the King of Spain holds the Genoeſes faſter chain'd to his Yoak, then if he were in poſſeſſion of the City; In regard theſe Republicans muſt be either Slaves to his Catholic Majeſty, or loſe their Debt.

The Duke muſt be at leaſt 50 years of Age before he can be Elected; and after his two years Regency, he cannot obtain the ſame Employment till after the expiration of 12 years. He can admit no Viſits, give no Audiences, open no Letters that are directed to him, but in the preſence of the Senators that are lodg'd with him in his Palace. His Robe of Ceremony is of Red Velvet or Damask, made after the old faſhion, ruffled below, with a pointed Cap of the ſame Stuff with the Robe. When the term of his Regency is expir'd, which falls out to be upon the 13th of Auguſt, at 14 a Clock and half an hour after, he repairs to the Aſſembly of the Colledges, where the Secretary of the Aſſembly returns him Thanks in theſe terms: Voſtra Serenita ha fornito il ſuo tempo, voſtra Eccellenza ſene vadi a caſa. Your Serenity has compleated your Time, you may return home again. Which he does at the ſame time, and being come to his own door, he returns Thanks to the Senators and Gentlemen that attended him; which done, he puts off his Red Robe, and puts on his Senators Gown, which he wears all the reſt of his Life.

Three Days after, they proceed to the Election of a new Duke, the Dean of the Senators performing the Function. Preſently the Grand Council is call'd together, which names Fifteen Perſons proper for that Dignity: out of theſe Fifteen the Little Council chuſes Six, who being communicated back to the Grand Council, they chuſe One, who, nevertheleſs is not Crown'd till Three Months after, thô ſome have been Crown'd ſooner; and among others, Franceſco Maria Sercaro, who was Elected, and Crown'd the ſame day. The Ceremony is perform'd by the Arch-Biſhop of Genoa in the Cathedral Church. Moreover, the Duke and the Senators are oblig'd to take the Communion twice a year, at Chriſtmas and Eaſter.

The Leſſer Council is compos'd of the Duke, the Senators, the Colledges, and 200 Gentlemen, none under Seven and twenty years of Age. This Council is Summon'd together by the ſound of a Bell; and as every Gentleman enters into the Chamber, an Uſher in a long Red Robe preſents him with a little wooden Ball Silver'd over, which he throws into a Baſon over againſt the Duke. When all the Noblemen are enter'd, the Door is ſhut, and the Chancellor counts the Balls, that he may know the number of thoſe that compoſe the Aſſembly; and after the Duke has made known the occaſion of their Aſſembling, the Suffrages are gather'd after this manner: A Sub-Chancellor diſtributes to every one a white Woollen or Linen Ball; and another Sub-Chancellor gives about a Black Ball; and a Third preſents 'em with an Urn, which they call a Pix, where are Two Pipes the One for the Negative, the Other for the Affirmative, which cloſe together at the top in ſuch a manner, that the hand of him that throws in the Ball, covering all the entrance, it cannot be diſcern'd into which Pipe he puts in the Black or the White. It is alſo to be obſerv'd, that the Decrees of this Council muſt be render'd Authentick by a Hunderd thirty four Voices at leaſt, which are Two Thirds of the Two hundred.

The Grand Council is compos'd of the Duke, the Senate, and all the Colledges, the leſſer Council, and all the Nobility of the City. It is ſummon'd together after the ſame manner as the Leſſer Council, and the Duke alſo Declares the occaſion of their coming. It is then chiefly call'd together when any Law is to be aboliſh'd, or any new ones to be made; or when Plebean is to be admitted into the Nobility; or for the laying new Taxes or Impoſitions. In ſhort, in this Aſſembly it is that all the Power and Authority of the State reſides. But theſe Matters are all prepar'd in the Leſſer Council, before they are propos'd in the Grand ones.

The City of Genoa, adorn'd with an Arch-Biſhoprick, is the Capital City of the State; Surnam'd the Superb, as well by reaſon of the Humor of the Inhabitants, as the Magnificence of the Buildings; being ſeated by the Sea ſide upon the Aſcent of a Hill, in the Form of an Amphi-Theater. It is ſurrounded with good Walls on that ſide next the Land, and well fortify'd in all parts where it lies liable to be attackt. It is about Six Italian Miles in Circuit, but the Streets are very narrow and dark, by reaſon of the height of the Houſes. Four Gates belong to it, a great number of Magnificent Palaces, and a good Harbor, tho' the entrance into it be ſomewhat difficult, by reaſon of ſeveral Rocks that lye round about it under water. It is defended by a Mole which the Genoeſes built ſince they revolted from France. At the end of the Mole ſtands a Phanal, fot the direction of Ships that Sail along the Coaſt in the night time; and by the ſituation of the Lanthorn, they in the City underſtand what Courſe the Veſſels ſteer, which they perceive. This Phanal is built in that part where Lewis XII K. of France built a Fort to bridle the City.

There is to be ſeen in Genoa an Aquaeduct, which carries the Water from one to the other end of the City, and which ſupplies an infinite number of Fountains; ſome of which furniſh the Veſſels before they put to Sea, with freſh Water. If they who Sail from Genoa to Legorne ſhould happen to want Water, they will meet with a Spring of freſh Water in the middle of the Golph de l'Eſprece, that bubbles up through the Salt Water, to the ſurface of the Sea, and ſtill preſerves its ſweetneſs.

The Domo (for ſo are all the Cathedrals call'd in Italy) is conſecrated to St. Laurence. It is all lin'd without ſide with Black and White Marble, having Three Doors in the Front, ſuſtain'd with fair Columns of Marble. The Riches within-ſide alſo, is exactly correſpondent to the out-ſide Imbelliſhments. But they who are deſirous to ſee the Reliques, are oblig'd under a forfeiture, to leave their Weapons at the Door. An Iron Gate with Four Locks opens into the Treaſury, of which, the Senators keep the Keys. Among other things, they ſhew ye a Diſh all of one Emrauld, which they would make ye believe was preſented to Solomon by the Queen of Sheba, and that Chriſt made uſe of it at his laſt Supper with his Diſciples; adding withal, that when Antioch was taken, the Genoeſes made choice of it for their ſhare of the Booty. Nevertheleſs, ſome Authors ſay, That Chriſt Eat the Paſchal Lamb in a Silver Diſh, as Richard Laſſels the Famous Engliſh Traveller has obſerv'd. Moreover, they will have the Aſhes of John the Baptiſt to be preſerv'd in this Cathedral.

There are alſo other very fair Churches in Genoa, of which I forbear to ſay any thing, for fear of Prolixity; I ſhall alſo ſay nothing of the Palaces, of which there are almoſt as many as there are Houſes. Which Magnificence has occaſion'd this Remark, that the Genoeſes are the Richeſt Private Perſons in Italy, and the pooreſt State, and that the People took as much care of their Private Eſtates, as the Venetians of their Republick. But of all the Palaces, Prince Doria's is, without all contradiction, the moſt Superb. For among other Rooms, there is in it a long Gallery pav'd with Black and White Marble, Sixſcore Paces long, and Six and Twenty Broad, from whence you may behold all the Veſſels and Ships that enter the Port of Genoa. The Apartments are ſo richly furniſh'd, that a Governor of Milan, not being able to believe that they could all belong to Doria, told the Queen of Spain, who was to take Shipping at Genoa, that She ſhould Lodge in one of the moſt Noble Palaces of the World, but that the ſumptuous Furniture, was borrow'd out of all the moſt wealthy Houſes in the City.

Doria being told of this, before the Queens arrival, caus'd to be Engrav'd upon the Gate of his Palace, By the Grace of God and the King, the Whole belongs to the Maſter of the Houſe. In his Garden is to be ſeen a large Statue of a Giant, under which is to be read the Epitaph of a Dog, that while he liv'd, had Five hundred Crowns a year allow'd him for his Maintenance.

There are few States of Europe where the Civil Policy is better eſtabliſh'd then at Genoa. There are certain Magiſtrates who are call'd the Magiſtrates of Abundance, whoſe Care it is to ſee that the City be provided with Corn, Meal, Wine and Oil for a whole Year (how Dear ſoever it be) beſides what comes daily to the Market, and to regulate and ſet the price of Proviſion, according to the Fertility or Scarcity of the Year. And to prevent miſ-management, there are in all the Quarters of the City, more eſpecially, near the Courts of Judicature, certain Holes in the Wall, into which all People have the liberty to throw in Accuſations againſt thoſe whom they ſuſpect to have miſ-manag'd themſelves in their Imployments or Commiſſions; and ſometimes without any other Conviction it happens to be the misfortune of an innocent Perſon to be puniſh'd.

I muſt not conclude this Chapter, without ſpeaking a word of that which gave the occaſion to the Bombing of Genoa in 1684. by the French Fleet.

The King having make ſeveral complaints to this Republick, by Mr. S. Olon, his Envoy Extraordinary, of the proceeding of this City, in oppoſition to the Intereſts of that Crown, and the injuries done his Subjects, that Miniſter could obtain no reaſonable ſatisfaction. In the Second place, his Majeſty demanded of the Republick, free paſſage by Land through their Territories, for his Salt to Cazal, and that he might erect a Magazine at Savona, of which the Magiſtrates of Genoa had one Key, to ſecure 'em from any ſuſpition that it was vended in the City of Savona; which the Republick refuſed; and not ſo contented, they made a private Treaty with Spain againſt France, by which the Republick oblig'd themſelves to maintain Four thouſand Men in the State of Genoa, which were to be rais'd in the name of the Count de Melgar, and at the charges of the Republick; As alſo to add Six more Gallies to the Six already prepar'd, to joyn with the Spaniſh Fleet. The moſt Chriſtian King therefore, inform'd of their Deſign, commanded his Miniſter to know their Reaſon, and offer'd at the ſame time his Mediation, or his Forces if they had occaſion.

But the Genoeſes were ſo far from accepting the King's Propoſals, that they return'd haughty and ambiguous Anſwers, which enforc'd the King to ſend a Fleet thither, to the end, that the appearance of it might ſcare 'em into their Duty. To that purpoſe M. de Signeley, Miniſter and Secretary of State, who was aboard the Fleet, being arriv'd in the Port of Genoa, ſent for ſome of the Senators, to whom he made known the Cauſes of Reſentment which the Republick had given the King, and that he was come to demand Satisfaction: that in the mean time they might prevent the miſchief that threaten'd 'em, if they unrigg'd the four new Gallies that were already fitted for Sea, and ſent to Paris four Senators to excuſe their Miſcarriages to his Majeſty. But they refuſed to accept of this Expedient; and were ſo bold as to let fly firſt of all upon the King's Gallies, which had not as yet committed any Act of Hoſtility; which drew upon 'em a ſhower of Bombs for ſome days, that ruin'd a good part of their Palaces.

There is alſo ſome reaſon to believe, that the King would not have ſtopp'd there, had not the Genoeſes beſought Pope Innocent XI. to intercede with his Majeſty in their behalf, offering to give his Majeſty ſuch ſatisfaction as he ſhould deſire. The King therefore, conſented to an Accommodation, which was Mediated by Ranuccio, Biſhop of Fano, his Holineſs's Nuncio, with M. Colbert, Miniſter and Secretary of State, whom his Majeſty had appointed his Plenipotentiary 〈◊〉 the Marquis de Marini, Envoy Extraordin ••• from the Republick.

The Treaty was Sign'd at Verſailles the 12th of February, 1685. Ratifi'd by the Republick the 25th of the ſame Month, and by his Majeſty the 3d. of March following, the ſubſtance of which was,

I. That the Duke then Governing, and Four of the Senators ſhould repair to the King in their Ceremonial Habit, and that the Duke, ſpeaking in behalf of the reſt, ſhould in the name of the Republick, acknowledge their extream Sorrow for having diſpleas'd his Majeſty, and that he ſhould in his Speech, make uſe of moſt ſubmiſſive and reſpectful Expreſſions, and ſuch as ſhould manifeſt the ſincere deſire they had to merit his Majeſties Good Will for the future, and carefully to ſtudy the preſervation of it.

II. That the Duke and the Four Senators, at their return to Genoa, ſhould exerciſe their Employments, and retain their Dignities, and that no others ſhould be choſen into their Places during their abſence.

III. That the Republick of Genoa, within a Months time, ſhould diſmiſs all the Spaniſh Forces▪ that had been admitted into the ſtrong Holds and Countrey belonging to the State, and ſhould renounce from henceforth, by virtue of this Treaty, all other Leagues and Aſſociations by them enter'd into, ſince the Firſt of January 1683.

IV. That the Genoeſes might refit at the ſame time, the ſame number of Gallies which they had three years agoe, and ſhould lay up thoſe that they had ſince Equipp'd.

V. That the Republick ſhould reſtore to the French all that they could recover of the Effects that had been taken from 'em in the City and Territories of Genoa, the King conſenting, out of his Royal Compaſſion, that inſtead of Reparation of Damages, to which his Subjects might pretend, for ſuch of their Effects as could not be found, that the Republick ſhould engage themſelves, as they did by this Article, to contribute toward the Repair of the Churches and Sacred Places endamag'd by the Bombs; the King referring it to the Pope to ſettle the Sum that ſhould be thought convenient for that purpoſe, and to limit the time for bringing thoſe Repairs to perfection.

VI. That the Republick ſhould pay a Hundred thouſand Crowns to the Count de Fieſque, in deduction of his ancient Pretenſions, upon the ſole conſideration that the ſaid Count is under the King's Protection; and upon condition that the payment of this Money ſhould no way prejudice the Reaſons which the Republick has to alledge againſt the ſaid Pretenſions.

VII. That the King being content with the ſatisfactions above-nam • d, will vouchſafe the Honour of his Favours to the Republick of Genoa.

VIII. That all Acts of Hoſtility ſhall ceaſe by Land, from the day of this Treaty, and by Sea within a Month; and the Pris'ners on both ſides to be ſet at liberty.

IX. That this Treaty ſhall be Ratify'd, and the Ratifications exchang'd, at fartheſt within Three weeks, &c.

By vertue of this Treaty, the Republick ſent the Duke Francis-Maria-Imperiale Lercaro, then ruling, together with four Senators, Marcellino Durazzo, Paris Maria Salvago, Giovanni Garibaldo, and Agoſtino Lomellino; who departed from Genoa the 29th of March, 1685. attended by ſix young Gentlemen appointed by the Republick.

They arriv'd the 10th of April at Lions, and the 18th at Paris; where the Duke ſpent about five and twenty days in preparing his Equipage, and the 4th of May had his Audience of the King at Verſailles, to which he was conducted by M. Bonnueil Introductor of Embaſſadors. Some days before, he had caus'd the Nails that faſten'd the Cloath of State of his Coach to be taken away, as being a diſtinction that belongs to none but Royal Perſons, and Sovereign Princes. The King was ſeated upon a Throne rais'd ten or twelve ſteps at the end of the Great Gallery. The King had on each ſide of him, the Dauphin, Monſieur the King's Brother, the Duke of Bourbon, the Duke of Main, and the Count of Tholouze, and upon the Duke of Genoa's approach he roſe up and put off his Hat: Then he caus'd the Duke to be cover'd, but the four Senators remain'd uncover'd.

The Duke made an elegant Harangue which I ſhall inſert at the end of the Chapter. Which done, the Senators alſo made their Compliments, and it was obſerv'd that the Duke was uncover'd all the while the Senators ſpoke. The Audience being over, they were Treated at Dinner by the King's Order with all the Profuſion and Magnificence imaginable; and after Dinner reſuming their Ceremonial Habits, which they put off before they ſate down to Dinner, they were conducted to wait upon Monſeigneur, the Dauphineſs, the Dukes of Burgundy and Anjou, Monſieur, Madame, and all the Princes and Princeſſes of the Royal Family. And it was obſervable that the Senators did not cover till they came to the Duke of Chartres's Apartment. They returned that Evening to Paris, but the 18th and 23d they went back to Verſailles in the Habit of Gentlemen to view the Apartments, the Water-works, the place where the great Horſes are manag'd, and the Caſtles of Trianon and Marli. The 26th the Duke and three Senators, Salvago being ſick, had their Audience of leave of the King, and departed within a few days for Genoa, where they continu'd in their Employments, till the uſual time of a new choice.

The Duke of Genoa's Speech to the King at Verſailles, May 14th. 1685. SIR,

MY Republick has always held it for one of the fundamental Maxims of their Government, to ſignalize themſelves by a profound Veneration for this great Crown, which being tranſmitted to your Majeſty by your Auguſt Progenitors, you have exalted to ſo high a degree of Power and Glory, by ſuch prodigious and unheard of Atchievements, that Fame, upon other occaſions accuſtom'd to multiply, proves deficient in this, not being able ſhould ſhe leſſen 'em, to render your Great Actions credible to Poſterity.

Prerogatives ſo ſublime, that they enforce all States to look upon 'em with a moſt profound Obſequiouſneſs, and have particularly induc'd my Republick to diſtinguiſh her ſelf above all others, to manifeſt it in ſuch a manner, that all the World may be apparently convinc'd of it: And the moſt terrible and fatal Accident that ever befel her is this of incurring your Majeſties high diſpleaſure. I cannot therefore proportionably diſplay her extream Sorrow to have offended your Majeſty; though ſhe is apt to flatter her ſelf that this is befallen through an effect of pure Misfortune, nevertheleſs ſhe is deſirous that whatever may have diſſatisfy'd your Majeſty, may be cancell'd at any rate, not only from your Memory, but from the Remembrance of all Men; ſhe not knowing any way to alleviate her Afflictions till ſhe beholds her ſelf reſtor'd to your Majeſties ineſtimable Favour.

Therefore, that ſhe may become worthy of obtaining it, ſhe aſſures your Majeſty, that all her moſt intent Applications, and moſt ſollicitous Cares ſhall be imploy'd to procure not only the preſervation of it, but alſo to habituate her ſelf to increaſe it. In order to which, not content with expreſſions the moſt proper and moſt obſequious, ſhe reſolv'd to make uſe of unuſual and ſingular forms, ſending her Duke and four Senators, in hopes that by ſuch ſpecial Demonſtrations your Majeſty will be fully convinc'd of the moſt high eſteem which my Republick has of your Favour and Good Will.

As for my own part, Sir, I acknowledge it for my greateſt good fortune, to have the Honour of declaring theſe my moſt ſincere and moſt reſpectful Sentiments, and prize above all things this Opportunity of appearing in the preſence of ſo great a Monarch, who invincible for his Valour, and reverenc'd for his unparallel'd Magnanimity and Grandeur, as you have ſurmounted all others in Ages Paſt, ſo you ſecure the ſame Proſperity to your Progeny. From ſo happy an Augury, I aſſume the Confidence, that your Majeſty, to make known to the Univerſe the ſingularity of your moſt Generous Soul, will incline your Heart to look upon theſe Remonſtrances no leſs juſt then ſincere, as Teſtimonies not only of the Integrity of my Heart, as of the Minds of theſe Illuſtrious Senators, and Citizens of my Country, who with Impatience attend the reciprocal Marks that your Majeſty will vouchſafe to grant 'em of your Benignity and Kindneſs.

CHAP. V. Of the States of the Dukes of Parma and Modena.

THE Duke of Parma is a Vaſſal to the Holy See; to which he pays a Tribute of Ten Thouſand Crowns for his Dutchies of Parma and Piacenza. This State has undergone ſeveral Revolutions ſince the Decay of the Empire, till the Church being in peaceable Poſſeſſion of it, Alexander Farneze being advanc'd to the Pontificate, under the name of Paul III. erected Parma into a Dukedom, and gave it his Son Peter Farneze, in the year 1545. But the Emperor Charles V. diſputed the Poſſeſſion of it with him, till the death of the ſaid Duke, who died Two years after. However, Octavio Farneze his Son, being powerfully protected by the King of France, ſecur'd that State to his Succeſſors, by the Marriage of Margaret of Auſtria, natural Daughter of the ſame Emperor.

The Country adjoyning is very Ferril in Corn, Wine, Fruit, but more eſpecially in Cheeſe, the excellency of which is ſufficiently known. 'Tis ſufficient to ſay that they make ſome of theſe Cheeſes that weigh a Hundred and fifty pound, and that they are eſteem'd for ſo great Delicacies among the Turks, that they are uſually ſerv'd up to the Great Turk and his Viſiers at their Banquets. There are likewiſe ſeveral Wells of Salt Water in the adjacent parts, out of which they draw White Salt; and ſome Iron and Copper Mines.

The Revenue of the Duke of Parma amounts to Five hundred thouſand Roman Crowns a year, which make Seventeen hundred and fifty Livres of France; and at a pinch of neceſſity, he is able to bring into the Field Eighteen thouſand Foot of his own Subjects.

The City of Parma, Capital of the Dntchy, and where the Duke keeps his Court, is divided into three Parts by the River Parma, over which are built Three Bridges that joyn the whole together. It is adorn'd with a Biſhoprick, under the Arch-Biſhop of Bologna, and a Famous Univerſity, Founded in the year 1599, by Ranuccio Farneze. The Citadel conſiſting of Five Baſtions, is one of the ſtrongeſt and beſt fortifi'd in Italy. Foreigners always viſit the Dukes Palace, which is a moſt Magnificent Structure, wherein there was no ſpare made of Marble, Jaſper or Porphyrie. The Gardens belonging to the Palace and the Cathedral Church, are the Rarities which next the Palace are worthy Obſervation.

Piacenza is the Second City in the Duke of Parma's Territories; bearing the Title of a a Dutchy, with a Biſhoprick Suffragan to Bologna. 'Tis thought that it deriv'd the name of it from the Situation, which is in a Plain extreamly Fertile. It ſtands not far from the River Po, being about Five Miles in circuit. Near the City to the Weſt, they ſhew ye the Place where St. Anthony call'd down Fire from Heaven upon the Soldiers that derided his Name. Thô what is more conſiderable, is the Fountain in the great Piazza of Piacenza, which Auguſtus caus'd to be brought to the City; and the Statue of Alexander Farneze the Firſt, a Horſeback, in Braſs.

MOdenois, or the State of Medena, lies to the Eaſt of Parma. It was erected into a Dukedom by the Emperor Frederick III. in 1452. in favour of Borſo d'Eſte. The Country abounds with Plenty of all things. As for the Dutchy it ſelf, it holds of the Emperor, to whom the Duke of Modena pays a yearly Tribute of 4000 Crowns. The Revenue of it amounts to about a Million of Italian Livres, which make Seven hundred and fifty thouſand Livres of France: and in a time of Need, the Duke is able to Arm Five and twenty thouſand Men.

Modena the Capital of the Dutchy, is the uſual Reſidence of the Duke. It is ſeated between the Rivers of Sechia and Panaro; and altho the Streets are ſomewhat narrow, yet it is a very pleaſant Habitation. Foreigners go to ſee the Duke's and the Biſhop's Palaces, the Cathedral and the Citadel, where there is nothing, however very remarkable. Hiſtory informs us, that Modena was formerly a Roman Colony, and that after the death of Julius Caeſar, Brutus was there in vain Beſieg'd by Marc Antonie, in the year of Rome 710. That the City was afterwards ruin'd by the Goths and Lombards, and rebuilt under the Reign of the Sons Charlemain: and that it was near Modena, that in the year of Rome 711, Hirtius and Panſa were defeated by Marc Antonie. The Steeple of Modena is one of the Higheſt Towers in Italy.

CHAP. VI. Of the Territories of the Duke of Mantua.

THE Duke of Mantua holds the Fee of his Territories from the Emperor, by whom he is inveſted. Mantua was formerly no more then a Marquiſate, till by Charles V. erected into a Dukedom in 1530. The Duke in preſent Poſſeſſion, is of the Illuſtrious Houſe of Gonzaga, He aſſumes the Titles of Duke of Mantua, Montferrat and Guaſtalla, Perpetual Vicar of the Empire, &c. The Country is ſeated between the Territories of the Church, the States of Modena, Venice and Milancis, in length about Fifty Miles, and Forty broad. The Po that runs through it, makes it one of the moſt fertile Countries in Italy, eſpecially in Corn; ſeeing that one good Harveſt is ſufficient to ſupply the Inhabitants for Five Years. 'Tis true, that by reaſon of the Inundations of the Po, the Wine's a little Green and Sowre.

His Highneſs may be able to bring into the Field, an Army of Twelve thouſand Foot, and Eight hundred Horſe, and his Revenue amounts to 300000 Crowns a Year, the chiefeſt part of which is raiſed either by his Mills, or upon the Jews, who give conſiderable Sums for liberty of Free Trade; but they are oblig'd to wear Yellow Ribonds in their Hats, to diſtinguiſh 'em from the Chriſtians.

The City of Mantua is the Metropolis of the Dutchy. It is ſeated in a Lake Twenty Miles in compaſs, that fills the River Mincius, ſo that there is no way to approach it, but over two Cauſeys, with two Draw-Bridges at the ends. Upon this Lake, there are a prodigious quantity of Mills; and it is remarkable that there are Three in one Houſe that ſerve to Spin, Wind, Double and Twiſt Silk, which are manag'd by one ſingle Man.

This City is very Ancient: The Poets Virgil and Faſs were both born in Mantua; nor is it leſs remarkable for the Manufacture of Tabbies, and other rich Silks. The Streets are broad, Straight, and very neat. It contains about Four miles in compaſs, having Eight Gates, Eighteen Pariſhes, Forty Convents, and one particular Quarter for the Jews. There is the ſame Cuſtom obſerv'd here as in moſt of the other Cities of Italy; that is, that at your entrance into the City you are oblig'd to leave your Fire Arms at the Gate, which are return'd to you again upon your departure at the Gate, which you go forth at. But you muſt be careful to mark 'em that you may know 'em again.

Travellers take great delight to viſit the Manufactures, the Town-houſe, the Cathedral, the Roof of which is all over Gold and Azure, but more eſpecially the Duke's Palace, which without Queſtion is the faireſt Ornament of the City: Nor is it without good reaſon, that this Palace is ſaid to be able to lodge five Kings with all their Retinue; there being no leſs then five hundred and fifty Chambers in it richly furniſh'd every one (though formerly there were ſeven hundred. The Apartments deſign'd for the Lodging of Princes, Embaſſadors, and Cardinals, are proportionable in Magnificence to the Grandeur of the Perſon that is to be entertain'd in 'em. There are Beds embroider'd with Gold and Pearls, Silk Tapeſtries emboſs'd with Gold. Six Tables about three foot long, of which the one is all compos'd of Emraulds ſo well joyn'd together, that you would ſwear it to be all one ſtone, as well as the reſt, which are one compos'd of Turquoiſes, a third of Violet Saphirs, one of Amber, and another of Jaſper. There is alſo to be ſeen a Noble Organ of Alabaſter; After which I think it needleſs to give a deſcription of the Gold, Silver and pretious Stones that gliſter in all the Cabinets, nor of the Silver, Braſs, and Marble Statues that adorn the Chambers and the Galleries; for there is no queſtion but that every thing elſe is correſpondent to the Magnificence of the Palace, and the Grandeur of the Prince who is the Lord of it. Give me leave to ſay this by the by, that there are Harneſſes for Horſes all cover'd with Pearls and Diamonds, a great number of Arms enrich'd in the ſame manner: Chalices of Gold, Croſſes Baſons and other Ornaments of the Chappels belonging to the Cardinals of the ſame Houſe, all enrich'd with Pearls, Rubies, Emraulds and other pretious Stones. To which I ſhall add, that all this Wealth was much more conſiderable before the Palace was pillag'd by the Emperour Ferdinand the Second's Forces, under the Conduct of Colalto; who made himſelf Maſter of it in 1630. at what time the Barbariſm of the Soldiers, not being ſatiated with the Plunder, was ſuch, that they broke and ſpoil'd an infinite number of Statues, and rare pieces of Workmanſhip.

CHAP. VII. Of the State and Republick of Venice.

WE call the State of Venice the whole Extent of Territory that the Republick poſſeſſes in Italy, which was part of the lower Lombardy. Venice is likewiſe Miſtreſs of Iſtria, Dalmatia, the Morea, and part of the Iſlands of the Archipelago. This Republick is the only Sovereign State in Italy, the reſt being Feudataries either to the Church or to the Empire. The Air of Venice is not wholſome, as being annoy'd byt he ſtench of the Canalls, which together with the little Society that Strangers find there for the reaſons which I ſhall hereafter mention, is the occaſion that Travellers care not to reſide long in the City, when they have once ſeen the Curioſities that beautifie it.

This Republick is addreſt to by the Title of moſt Serene, as being the moſt Potent State of Italy. The Revenue of it amounts to about Fifteen Millions; and the City of Venice alone pays about Two Millions and Five hundred Thouſand Ducats; nor is it leſs true that ſhe alone contributes as much as all the demeans which ſhe poſſeſſes upon the firm Land. She is very ſparing, and lays up vaſtly in time of Peace, of which, her famous Treaſury of St. Mark is an undeniable Proof.

In a time of need, ſhe is able to ſet out to Sea Two hundred ſail of Ships and Gallies, and to Arm 400000 of her own Subjects. In times of Peace ſhe always keeps Forty Gallies in pay, to clear the Golph of the Pyrates of Barbary. When the Republick is at War with the Turk, ſhe always makes uſe of Foreign Forces, which ſhe hires out of Germany and other places; reſerving her own Subjects to People her Cities and her Conqueſts; which nevertheleſs does no way diminiſh her Treaſure, for that the Money which ſhe lays out, is all ſpent again in her own Territories.

Almoſt all the Money currant in Italy goes at Venice, proportionably to their weight and Alloy. Nevertheleſs the Republick Coins Piſtols, Sequins, Ducats, Crowns, Pieces of Twenty four Sols, Twenty Sols, and Gazettes, &c. The Sequin is worth Seventeen Livres or Two Ducats; the Piſtole Eight and twenty Livres; the Ducatoon Six Livres Four Sols; the Crown Nine Livres, Twelve Sols, and the Gazette, Two Sols. The Ducatoon is not worth above Fifty French Sols; and between Forty Eight and Fifty Sols of Venice, make a Livre of France.

'Tis not without reaſon that Venice is counted one of the richeſt Cities in the World, in regard it was never yet taken or plunder'd by her Enemies; which makes it a common Saying, That 'tis as impoſſible that Money ſhould be wanting in the Treaſury of St. Mark, as Soldiers in France.

The City of Venice is the Metropolis of the whole State: and I have already ſaid that ſhe is very potent, and I may add, That if ſhe had but plenty of Freſh Water, ſhe would want nothing. But that defect proceeds from her being built upon Seventy two Fenny Iſlands. Moſt Authors agree, that Venice was Founded in the year 421. of Chriſt; to which others more preciſely add, That the Building was begun upon the 25th of March; which day is principally obſerv'd, for that it was the day when the World was Created, and of the Incarnation of Chriſt. The Inhabitants of Padua were they who Founded this City, at what time Attila King of the Hunns, after he had laid Aquileia in Aſhes, undertook to ſubdue and ruine all Italy. His Cruelties enforc'd the Paduans and other People that inhabited between the Alps and the Golph, now call'd The Golph of Venice, to ſhelter themſelves in certain unwholſome Fenns. And in the year 421. they began to build ſome Houſes in the Iſland of Rialto, which was proclaim'd to be the Place of Sancturay and Refuge; and ſo in proceſs of time thoſe Buildings multiply'd in ſuch a manner, that Venice now takes in Seventy two Iſlands, joyn'd together with 450 Bridges: and becauſe the Soil would not admit of any ſolid Foundations, they built upon Piles, as they do at Amſterdam in Holland. The Bridge of Rialto, over the Great Canal, is the moſt beautiful in Venice, and indeed in all Europe. It has but one Arch, all of Marble, built upon 6328 Piles, and border'd with two rows of Shops. The ſituation of the City in this manner, is the reaſon that there is no uſe of Coaches in Venice, ſo that when they goe from one place to another, they take Water in Shallops or Boats call'd Gondola's, with which the Canals are cover'd. The Canals and the Bridges are Lin'd with a White ſhining Stone, and in regard the Women are handſome, and the Gown-men very ſevere, this has occaſion'd a Proverb, which admoniſhes Travellers to have a care of the Women, the White Stones, and the Men of the long Robe.

At firſt the Government of Venice was Democratical, under Conſuls and Tribunes. Every Iſland had their particular Conſuls, that aſſum'd to themſelves a Petty Sovereignty. But the Jealouſies that aroſe among 'em, were the occaſion that in the year 709. the Tribunes of the Twelve Principal Iſlands, reſolv'd to ſet up a Republick, and to elect a Chieftain to Command 'em; and firſt of all they caſt their Eyes upon Paolo Lucio Anafeſto, to whom they gave the Title of Duke or Doge. This Firſt Duke and his Succeſſors Rul'd with Abſolute Authority till the year 1172. becauſe that in their Life time they caus'd their Sons or their Brothers to be choſen to ſucceed 'em; and went about in that manner to perpetuate the Ducal Dignity in their Families. But the Principal Citizens aboliſh'd the Election which was made till then by the People, and ſet up an Independent and Sovereign Council, out of which they elected their Duke. This Tribunal was compos'd of 240 Citizens, indifferently choſen out of the Nobility, the Burgeſſes and Artificers; and at the ſame time they created Twelve Tribunes,, who were to oppoſe the Decrees of the Prince, if they appear'd to be unjuſt. This Form of Government laſted till the year 1289. at what time Duke Peter Gradenigo chang'd it into a Real Ariſtocracy, ſuch as it is at this day; all the Authority being devolv'd into the hands of a certain number of Families, writ down in a Golden Book, which is the Regiſter of the Venetian Nobility.

There are four different Councils in Venice; the firſt which is called the Grand Council, compos'd of 2000 Noblemen; out of which they chooſe all the Magiſtrates, Podeſta's, Generals of their Armies, Proveditors, Ambaſſadors, &c. and they make all the Laws which are deem'd neceſſary for the Welfare of the State. The ſecond is call'd the Council of Pregati, which determines all things that relate to Peace or War, Alliances or Leagues; and this is that which we call the Senate of Venice. The third is the Council call'd the Colledge, compos'd of 26 Noblemen, that gives Audience to Ambaſſadors, and carries their Demands to the Senate. The fourth is the Council of Ten, which judges all Crimes againſt the State, and is the moſt redoubted Council in Europe. This Council is renew'd every Year. This Council every Month chooſes three Inquiſitors of State, who are always taken out of the Ten, to the end that every one may ſerve in his Turn, and the Authority of this Triumvirate is ſuch, that they have as much Power over the Duke's Life, as over the Life of the meaneſt Subject, without acquainting the Senate. This Council has cavs'd ſeveral Heads of Marble to be plac'd againſt the Walls of the Palace with gaping Mouths, upon which theſe words are to be read, Secret Denunciations, into which they who have any accuſation againſt any Magiſtrate, or other perſon holding Criminal Correſpondence, throw in little Notes. And upon theſe Accuſations it is, and ſometimes upon the leaſt ſuſpicion that they put People to Death, who are ſometimes guilty of no other Crime then not to pleaſe their Enemies. For ſuch is the Policy of Venice rather to take away the Lives of the Innocent, then to let the Guilty go unpuniſh'd. We muſt not forget that all the Nobility, when they betake themſelves to the Church, are excluded from all their Councils, and from all Employments in the State to prevent the Court of Rome from having any knowledge of the Secrets of the State.

As to Spirituals, Venice is govern'd by a Patriarch, who by a particular Rubrick, at the beginning of his Commands and Orders never ſets any other Titles, than N. divina miſericordia Venetiarum Patriarcha, without ever adding, like the Prelates of the Roman Church, Et Sanctae ſedis Apoſtolicae gratia, as if he were no Member of it. He is Primate of Dalmatia, and Metropolitan of the Archbiſhopricks of Candy and Corfu. Venice has alſo another Patriarch within her Territories, that is to ſay, the Patriarch of Aquileia, who reſides at Ʋdena in Friuli, And in regard the City of Aquileia now belongs to the Emperour, he pretends to have a Right to appoint the Patriarch. But the Venetians, to the end the Patriarchate may never become vacant, have empowr'd the Patriarch to nominate a Coadjutor and Succeſſor, ſo ſoon as he is advanc'd to that Dignity, which the Senate preſently confirms, if they deem him worthy of it.

The Employment of Duke of Venice is for life, and generally they chooſe to that Dignity an Old Man, who has been Ambaſſador in the principal Courts of Europe, and who is perfectly acquainted with Forreign Countries. He cannot ſtir out of the Laguna without leave, and can do nothing without the Advice of his Counſellors which are allotted him, choſen out of the moſt conſiderable Gentlemen of the Republick. When the Duke gives his Opinion in the Senate, he has but one Voice; but his ſuffrage goes for two in the Grand Council. The Duke is clad in a Purple Robe with hanging Sleeves; and when he parades upon any publick Ceremony, he walks under a Canopy of Cloth of Gold, eight Silver Trumpets marching before him, and a Youth carrying a Torch of white Wax; a Sword is alſo carried before him as a mark of his dependency. All Declarations and Letters of State are written in his Name, and the Money is alſo ſtamp'd with his Portraiture, though there is always on the Reverſe a Lyon and the Image of St. Mark, with the Duke kneeling before him.

The Duke is Elected after the following manner: The Grand Council being aſſembl'd at the hour prefix'd, the Door is ſhut; and after they have counted the number of thoſe in the Hall, they throw into a Baſon an equal number of little Balls, among which there are thirty guilt; and when they are well jumbl'd and mix'd, every Gentleman goes and takes one. Then the Thirty that have the Golden Balls, aſſemble together in another Room, where there are ready prepar'd as many little Balls, of which there are but Nine guilt. Theſe Nine Gentlemen whoſe chance it is to light upon the Nine guilt Balls, chooſe out forty Gentlemen of the Aſſembly, which forty are reduc'd to Twelve by means of the guilt Balls; and thoſe Twelve elect Five and twenty, which are reduc'd to Nine. Thoſe Nine chooſe out Forty five, who are reduced at length to Eleven, who chooſe out One and forty Gentlemen, and they Elect the Duke. This Tedious Ballating prevents the Effects of Canvoſſing. Now when theſe Electors are approv'd by the Grand Council, they are ſhut up in the Palace of St, Mark, out of which they never ſtir till they have Elected the Duke. And it is to be obſerv'd, that though the Election be authentick, it muſt be corroborated by Five and twenty Suffrages; and while the Electors are thus ſhut up, they are carefully guarded, and diligently lookt after, almoſt in the ſame manner as the Cardinals in the Conclave.

The Venetian Nobility is diſtinguiſh'd into four Claſſes: The firſt comprehends the Families deſcended from the Tribunes, who in the Year 709. were the Electors of the firſt Duke of Venice, and which have continu'd by a kind of Miracle to this preſent time. Thoſe Twelve Electoral Families are the Contarini, the Moroſini, Badouari, Ziopoli, Micheli, Sanudi, Gradenighi, Meonni, Falieri, Dandoli, Polani, and Barozzi. There are alſo other four Noble Families that have continu'd in a Lineal Succeſſion ever ſince the Year 800, viz. The Juſtiniani, Cornari, Bragadini and Bembi. For which reaſon the firſt are vulgarly call'd the Twelve Apoſtles, and the latter the four Evangeliſts. The ſecond Claſſis of Noblemen, are they that began to be enregiſter'd in the Golden Book▪ when Gradenigo the Duke ſettled the Ariſtocracy in 1289. The third comprehends about fourſcore and ten or a hundred Families, who purchas'd their Nobility for a Thouſand Ducats apiece. Theſe Noblemen are never employ'd in the high Preferments of the Republick. The fourth Order of Nobility is that which the Republick confers upon Forreign Princes and other Illuſtrious Perſonages. Thus Hen. III. and Hen. IV. of France were admitted into the Body of the Nobility of Venice.

The Noble Venetians walk the Streets in a long Black Robe, and a Bonnet of black Tiſſue, border'd with a Fringe that hangs round about, and falls down over their Hair; for they are not ſuffer'd to wear Perriwigs; their Gowns are open before, and diſcover a rich Caſſock; their Shooes are all of black Spaniſh Leather; and for their Gate and Aire, they are very Grave and Majeſtick. But this Nobility of theirs deprives 'em of the freedom of converſing with Forreigners: Nor will their Jealouſie of all other Nations, permit 'em ſo much as to give Strangers a Viſit, or to pay the leaſt Civility to Ambaſſadors, their Wives, nor any other perſon belonging to their Retinue, without expreſs leave from the Senate. Nor dare they ſpeak to a Venetian Merchant, if he be known to frequent a Forreign Miniſter's Houſe.

Having thus diſcours'd of the Government, both Politick and Eccleſiaſtick of Venice, I ſhall only ſpeak one word of what is moſt worthy the Curious Obſervation of Travellers. If they happen to be there at the Feſtival of the Aſcenſion, they will ſee the Ceremony, which is annually perform'd upon that Day, of the Duke's Eſpouſing the Sea. At what time the Duke and the Senators in their Purple Robes, accompanied by the Patriarch, the Pope's Nuncio, and the Ambaſſadors go aboard the Bucentaure, which is a ſort of Galley with ſeveral Decks, guilded down to the Water, and cover'd with Crimſon Velvet with broad Gold Fringes; and attended by all the Nobility and the People in four or five Thouſand Gondola's and other Veſſels, rows forward within a Mile of the Main Sea. And then it is that the Duke Eſpouſes the Golf of the Adriatick Sea, in Teſtimony that the Republick is the Miſtreſs of it. The Ceremony of this Eſpouſal is perform'd by caſting a Gold Ring into the Sea, and ſaying theſe words, We Eſpouſe Thee our Sea, as a Mark of real and perpetual Superiority. After which the Patriarch gives his Benediction, accompanied with the roaring of the Canon. Thence they go to hear Maſs upon the Lido, and ſo return to the Palace, where the Duke treats all the Senators and Great Lords. Alexander III. inſtituted this Ceremony as a Mark of Gratitude to the Republick, who had ſo ſtrenuouſly upheld him againſt the Proſecutions, of the Emperour Frederick Barbaroſſa. But it is an Errour to believe upon the Credit of ſome Hiſtorians, ill inform'd, that the Republick of Venice held the Soveraignty of the Adriatick, by Donation from that Pope; for beſides that it was never diſputed with the Venetians, the Holy See never had, nor ever pretended to any Right over the Adriatick; ſo that that ſame Pontiff could never beſtow upon the Republick a thing that never was in his power to give. And there needs no more then to read the Pope's own words to the Duke Ziani, while he acknowledg'd the Republick's Right, and inſtituted the Ceremony of Eſpouſing the Sea. Receive (ſaid he) this Ring, to give it every Year upon the ſame Day to the Sea, as to your lawful Spouſe, ſo that your Poſterity may know that the Sea belongs to You by Right of Arms.

The Cathedral Church was formerly dedicated to St. Theodore; but after the Body of St. Mark was brought thither from Alexandria, the City made choice of that Saint for her Patron, and the Church is Conſecrated under his Name; being one of the moſt Beautiful Edifices in the World; and what is more ſurprizing is, that ſuch a weighty Bulk ſhould have no other Foundation then Piles. The Tower which ſerves for a Steeple, is one of the higheſt in Italy. The Church is built of nothing elſe but Marble of all Colours, the fineſt in all Italy; and the Floor is pav'd with Jaſper and Porphyrie wrought in Moſaick work. The chief Altar is ſuſtain'd by four large Pillars, upon which in Releif you ſee engrav'd the Hiſtory of the Old and New Teſtament; and over it ſtands a Globe of Gold and Silver, enrich'd with Pearles and Diamonds. The Chappel of the Holy Sacrament is ſupported by four Columns of Alablaſter, which, as they ſay, had been Pillars in the Temple of Solomon. The Church divided into five Domes, is cover'd with Lead, and has four Braſs Gates; over the Principal of which ſtand four Horſes of the ſame Mettal guilt, made formerly on purpoſe for the Triumphal Arch erected at Rome in Honour of Nero, after he had vanquiſh'd the Parthians, and afterwards carry'd to Conſtantinople, to adorn Conſtantine's Triumphal Arch, and afterwards brought away by the Venetians when they ſack'd that great City. This wonderful Structure is ſupported by thirty ſix Columns of Marble two foot in Diameter: and the aſcent to the Steeple which is 246 Foot high, and 40 broad, is ſo made as to be very eaſie, and without Stairs.

The Treaſury of this Church encloſes a vaſt heap of immenſe Riches. Among other things Twelve Regal Crowns, and Twelve Corſlets of Maſſie Gold, enrich'd with Pearls and Diamonds. Ten Rubies of eight Ounces each. One Saphir of ten Ounces: A Veſſel all of one ſingle Emrauld: A Diſh of one ſingle Turquoiſe: A Pail to take up water, the whole but one Granate: The Duke's horned Bonnet ſet with large Diamonds and Oriental Pearls, with an infinite number of other coſtly Rarities: not to ſpeak of the Ornaments of the Church, as a great number of Pixe, Candleſticks, Silver and Chryſtal, together with an infinite number of Relicks, among which the chiefeſt are the Body of St. Mark and his Goſpel, written by his own hand.

They who have a mind to viſit St. Luke's Church, may there ſee Peter Aretimes Tomb, who liv'd in the Fifteenth Age, famous for his Satyrical Writings, which acquir'd him Preſents and Penſions from ſeveral great Men, and among others from Charles V. and Francis I. King of France; whither they fear'd his Satyrs, or lik'd his manner of Writing; which occaſion'd the following Epitaph to be made upon him.

Qui giace L'Aretin, Poeta Toſco, Chi d'ognun diſſe mal, che di dio, Scuſandoſi col dir, Jo no'l conoſco. Here Aretin lies, reduc'd to Earthy Clod, Who wrote in Tuſcan Language many a Poem, And rail'd at all Mankind, yet ſpar'd his God; But his Excuſe was this, He did not know Him.

The Palace of St. Mark's is admir'd by all Forreigners. It has two Fronts, lin'd with red and white Marble, and cover'd with Plates of Braſs, ſince the Conflagration in 1514. which melted down the Lead with which it was overlaid before. There is nothing but Gold and Azure to be ſeen in all the Apartments, with an infinite number of very fair Statues, all curious pieces of Workmanſhip. The Grand Council-Chamber is 150 Foot long, and 73 broad, ſurrounded with other Chambers full of Fire Arms; of which the greateſt part are always charg'd. Among others are to be ſeen the Arms which Henry IV. made uſe of to reduce his Kingdom to Obedience, and which he preſented to the Republick. One Piece of Canon and the Carriage all of Maſſie Silver: A Coffer, at the opening of which four Piſtols diſcharge, and would kill the Perſon that opens it if they were charg'd: A large Canon that diſcharges thrice at one time; and a ſmall Piece that diſcharges ſeven times at once. In this Armory there are Muskets, Pikes and Swords to arm a Thouſand Men in an Inſtant, for the ſecurity of the Senate: And all things are diſpos'd in ſuch a manner, that by pulling a Cord at one end, the Arms fall into the Hands of thoſe that have occaſion for 'em. The Muskets are always charg'd; and they who are poſſeſſed of 'em, as they go out of the Armory, will find a large Globe boar'd thorough with as many holes as there are Muskets, in every one of which there ſticks a Match ready to be drawn out lighted; in regard that by means of an Engin, and the Powder which is ſcatter'd in thoſe Concavities, they can ſet fire to all thoſe Matches in a Moment.

The Piazza of St. Mark is environ'd with beautiful Houſes, of which the Symmetry is very gracefully order'd. The Mint is one of the faireſt, and ſo built, that there is no danger of Fire, becauſe that all the Gates and Windows are of Iron, and for that there is no Wood made uſe of in the whole Structure. In the midſt of the Piazza, three large Maſts of a Ship are fix'd upright in the Ground, upon which the Republick's Standards of Gold and Silk are hung out upon ſolemn days, and at the end toward the Sea ſide, ſtand two Marble Pillars all of one piece about ſixty fathom high, and eight in compaſs; upon one of which is erected St. Mark's winged Lyon, and upon the other the Statue of St. Theodore.

The Arſenal of Venice is one of the moſt beautiful, and one of the beſt ſupply'd with all ſorts of Arms of any in Europe. There they ſhew to the Curious the Arms of Bajamonte Theopoli, who at the Head of Eight Ragamuffins had reſolv'd to murder the Senate in the Council Chamber, and to have ſeiz'd upon the Soveraignty. They carry'd all their Weapons conceal'd under their Cloaths: But as they were haſtning to the Palace, a Flower-pot fell out of a Window upon the Head of their Captain, and beat out his Brains; which ſo diſmay'd the reſt of his Accomplices, that believing their deſign diſcover'd, they all diſpers'd, and the Senate by that means eſcap'd. They alſo ſhew ye the Sword of Scanderbeg, Prince of Albania, who won no leſs then ſeven Battels from the Turks, with which he cleft a Man quite through at one blow. There is alſo a great number of other Arms and Weapons very curious, and among the reſt a Coffer, which they call the Devils Organs, becauſe that if you open it, it diſcharges ſeveral Piſtols, that ſcattering their Shot about the Room, make a great havock of all that are in it.

After you have ſeen the City of Venice, Travellers always viſit the Glaſs-houſe at Mirano, where they make admirable pieces of Workmanſhip of that brittle Mettal, which are tranſported over all Europe.

But in regard I do not undertake to write the Hiſtory of Venice, I forbear to ſpeak of all the Places which that Republick poſſeſſes in Italy. I ſhall therefore only ſay ſomething of Padua which is one of the Ancienteſt Cities in the Venetian Territories, being about 2300 Paces in Circuit. 'Tis ſaid, that Antenor was the Founder of it, and that it is much more ancient then either Rome or Venice. The Church of St. Anthony of Lisbonne is famous, becauſe that St. Anthony, now call'd St. Anthony of Padua, lies there interr'd: And they ſay, that the Stone that covers his Tomb, ſmells of Musk: However certain it is, that 'tis the moſt beautiful Church in the City. The Palace where Juſtice is adminiſter'd, is cover'd with Lead, and there is an Aſcent of four large Marble Steps up to it. The Great Hall is 256 Foot long, and 86 broad, where are to be ſeen the Twelve Celeſtial Signs and great number of other very Beautiful Paintings. Every Night at a certain hour they make the Great Clock ſtrike 32 times, in memory of ſo many Traytors who would have deliver'd up the City into the Enemies hands. Padua ſtill retains ſeveral Footſteps of Antiquity, as the Remains of an Amphitheater, call'd the Arenae, near the Auſtin Fryars Church.

And the Ruines of ſuch another are alſo to be ſeen at Veronas another City under the Dominion of the Venetians; but there is much more of the Structure ſtanding, which is ſaid to have been erected by order of the Conſul Flaminius, 380 Foot in length, and 200 broad. There is alſo a Circus where above Fourſcore Thouſand People may ſit upon Seats of Marble.

CHAP. VIII. Of the Republicks of Luca and St. Marino.

LƲCA is a ſmall Republican State almoſt enclos'd within the Territories of Tuſcany, having preſerv'd its Freedom ever ſince the Year 1430, under the Protection of the Emperour. This Republick is govern'd by a Gonfaloniere, who is Elected every two Months out of the Nobility, and has for his Aſſiſtants nine Ancients, who bear the Title of Excellentiſſimo's. However they can determine nothing that is not approv'd in the Grand Conncil, compos'd of 120 Burgeſſes. Though the Extent of the Territories belonging to this Republick be very ſmall, yet they are very well Peopl'd; ſo that they can eaſily bring 20000 Men into the Field to defend themſelves, beſides that their Revenue amounts to above 500000 Livres a Year. Their Arſenals are always provided with all things neceſſary to hold out a long Siege. The Gonfaloniere, who during his Regency lodges in the Palace of the Signiory, and has a hundred Soldiers for his Guard, is clad in a Robe of Crimſon Velvet or Damask, with a Bonnet of the ſame Stuff. Nor are there but few States wherein the Civil Government is better Regulated then in this Republick.

The City of Luca, the Metropolis of the Territory is ſeated upon the River Serchio, defended by eleven Baſtions lin'd with Brick, and as regular as can be imagin'd. Nor is it leſs conſiderable for the Antiquity of it, then the Fortifications that ſecure it, Several Silk Stuffs are made in this City, wherein the Inhabitants drive a very great Trade, which has acquir'd to the City the Epithite of Luca the Induſtrious.

The Churches are very beautiful, eſpecially the Cathedral Conſecrated to St. Martin, where they ſhew a Picture, upon which they would make ye believe that the Angels painted our Saviour's Face. It is Crown'd with a Crown of Gold, having over it the two Letters Alpha and Omega; that is to ſay, the Beginning and the End; or he that is, was and ſhall be. In the Auſtin-Fryars Church they ſhew ye a kind of an Abyſs, which as they ſay, open'd to ſwallow up a Gameſter that Blaſphem'd the Name of his Creator.

The Territories of the Republick of St. Marino are of a ſmaller extent then thoſe belonging to Luca, becauſe they include only the City of Sancto Marino, and ſome few Caſtles that ſerve to defend it, the whole containing not above ſix Thouſand Inhabitants. It ſettl'd it ſelf in the Year of Chriſt 600, and has all along ſupported it ſelf under the Protection of the Pope, being almoſt enclos'd within the Territories of the Church. It is govern'd by two Captains that are new choſen every year. She ſtill preſerves her Gravity, eſpecially in reſpect of other Republicks; ſo that when ſhe writes to the Republick of Venice, ſhe calls her Dear Siſter.

The City of Sancto Marino is very ſtrong, not only by reaſon of the ſituation of it, which is upon the top of a Mountain in the Dutchy of Ʋrbin, but alſo becauſe of the Fortifications, which are very regular, and certain Caſtles that defend it. The Name of it was deriv'd from one Sancto Marino, a Stone-Cutter, born in Dalmatia; who coming into Italy in the Third Age, and being addicted to Piety, preach'd the Goſpel to the Pagans, and Converted ſeveral to the Faith. He Dy'd in a kind of Hermitage where he had his Oratory upon the top of the Mountain where now the City of Sancto Marino ſtands.

CHAP. IX. Of TUSCANY.

THE State of Tuſcany Is purely Monarchical and Deſpotick. It is compos'd of three Eſtates, which were formerly as many Republicks; the Florentin, Piſan and Sieneſe, which derive their Names from their Capital City, where the Grand Duke has built good Citadels. This is one of the moſt conſiderable States of Italy, and wants nothing but the Title of a Kingdom, which a Pope of that Family had a deſign once to have conferr'd upon it. In the mean time according to the Italian Proverb, the Grand Duke wants nothing but Luca and Sarzana to be King of Tuſcany.

This Prince is one of the Richeſt in Italy: his ordinary Revenue amounts to two Millions and a half of Crowns, and 'tis ſaid that he has above Five and Twenty Millions of Gold in his Treaſury, beſides his Moveables and Jewels which are of an Ineſtimable value. He is able to bring into the Field 30000 Foot, and 3000 Horſe; and as to his ſtrength by Sea, in a caſe of neceſſity he can ſet out Twenty Men of War, a Dozen Galleys, and ſome Galeaſſes.

As to the Money, Spaniſh Piſtoles, Piaſters and Reals of Peru go currant all over the Dukedom, provided they be weight. The Money which the Grand Duke Coyns are Piſtoles, Ducatoons, Julio's and Gratie. The Piſtole of Spain goes for Forty two Livres of the Country; but the Tuſcan Piſtole goes but for Forty. A Ducatoon is worth ſeven Livres. A Julio is worth eight Gratie, which is a ſmall piece of Money, part Copper, part Silver. A Livre is worth a Julio and a half, and every Gratia is worth Eleven Deneers of France; ſo that the Tuſcan Livre is not worth above Eleven French Sols.

Florence is the Metropolis of the Dukedom, with an Archbiſhobprick Erected in the Year 1421. by Pope Martin V. Surnam'd the Fair, becauſe that without all contradiction it ſurpaſſes in Beauty and Magnificence all the Cities round about it; to which the ſituation of it contributes not a little, being built upon the River Arno, which divides it into two unequal parts, joyn'd together by Four Stone Bridges; and it is about Six Miles in circuit, with very neat Streets and well kept. Some Authors will have Sylla's Soldiers to be the Founders of Florence, to whom he gave the Land as a Reward of their Services: That it was at firſt call'd Fluentia, by reaſon of the Confluence of the Rivers Arno and the Main, but that the Fertility of the Soil gave it afterwards the Name of Florentia.

The ordinary Reſidence of the Grand Signior's Court contributes not a little to the Magnificence of it. For aſſuredly the Grand Duke's Palace deſerves to be the Manſion of an Emperour. It is adorn'd with Statues of Marble and Braſs much more noble then are to be found in any other place. The Painting, Sculpture and Guilding appear to be the Effects of Profuſion. And therefore not to engage in an exact deſcription of this Palace, I ſhall only take notice of ſome Pieces the moſt Magnificent.

There is to be ſeen a Candleſtick or Luſter all of Amber; a Domo of Mother of Pearl, and Gold Enamell'd with red; a Table where you ſee the City and Harbour of Leghorn, repreſented by ſeveral Stones of Jaſper, Marble, Lapis Lazuli, Topazes and Emraulds moſt artificially enchas'd; another Table of Calcedon Enamell'd with Flowers, Empal'd with Agates, Lapis Lazuli, and Emraulds, ſupported with Enamel'd Pillars: a Cabinet of Jet Inlay'd with ſeveral Gold Plates, with Seven Doors where as many Organs play; and withinſide the Paſſion of our Saviour figur'd in Marble: A Loadſtone that ſuſtains about Sixty pound weight of Iron, but it has loſt much of the Vertue of it ſince the laſt Fire that happen'd in the Palace. A Nail half Iron half Gold, which was thought to be an effect of Chimical Operation, but ſome years ſince it was found out that the two Metals were only ſoder'd together, but ſo imperceptibly, that it was not poſſible to be diſcern'd: An Agate Table, a Statue of Lewis XIII. on Horſeback of Maſſie Gold; an entire Service of Maſſie Gold Plate; and a prodigious quantity of Silver Enamel'd Plate. In ſhort all the Apartments of the Palace, and the Equipage of the Grand Duke are proportionable to this Immenſe Treaſure.

Nor are theſe the only Rarities which this Palace encloſes, the only Objects worthy a Travellers Curioſity. The Gallery wherein are the Portraitures of the Family of the Medicis, and of all the Famous Men of this Age, as well for Learning as for Arms, delightfully allures a Travellers Eye for ſome Hours, The Great Captains are plac'd upon the Right Hand, among whom is Hannibal the Terrour of Rome; Scipio who took Carthage and vanquiſh'd Hannibal: Pyrrhus who rejoyc'd Rome by declaring War againſt it: Scanderbeg the Scourge of the Turks. Alexander Farneze, who never loſt a Battel. Corteſius, who diſcover'd the Streight of Magellan. Andrew Doria, who recover'd Genoa from the French. Gaſton de Foix, whoſe Memory is ſtill Terrible to the Spaniard. Duke d' Alva, who though Bloody and Cruel perform'd many great Exploits, and who lamented at his Death not the Miſchiefs he had committed, but that he had never fought againſt the Turks. Cuſtruccio, of whom no Body ever ſpoke ill. Eccellino, of whom no body ever ſpoke any thing that was good; and Madam de Momorancy, who was well contented to die in a Battel againſt the Religionaries of France.

In an Armory adjoyning are to be ſeen ſeveral curious Arms: A Harquebuſe, the Barrel of which is Gold, and which carries much farther then a Barrel of Iron: A Piſtol which is call'd the Good Night, that diſcharges five times with once pulling the Trigger. Alſo another with Ten Barrels, that diſcharges as many times at once.

In one of the Cabinets ſtands a Mirrour, into which if a Man looks, he ſeems to be a Woman; and if a Woman looks into it, ſhe ſeems to be a Man. I forgot to tell ye, that among the Grand Duke's Jewels, there is a Diamond as thick as a Man's Finger, that weighs a Hundred thirty eight Carrats, and is lookt upon to be one of the faireſt in Europe, being valued at 150000 Crowns.

The Church of St. Mary of the Flowre, is the Cathedral of Florence. It is lin'd without-ſide with great ſquare Panes of Marble, White, Red and Black intermix'd. The Inſide is anſwerable to the Outſide, and the Steeple is of Marble though of a prodigious heigth.

St. Laurence's alſo is a very Beautiful Church; but that which renders it more remarkable, is the Chappel wherein the Dukes of Florence lie Buried. This Chappel is built all of Marble, lin'd with Jaſper, Alablaſter, and other rare Stones, ſo well poliſh'd and wrought, that the Workmanſhip is more eſteem'd then the Materials. The Vault is lin'd with Lapis Lazuli of Perſia, which is a Pretious Stone of a Blue Colour interlac'd with Veins of Gold, and which perfectly reſembles the Colour of the Skie in a clear and ſerene Seaſon. Round about this Chappel are plac'd the Statues of all the Dukes of Florence, all of Copper guilded in their Ducal Habits; and between two Tombs one of the Cities of the State of Florence, which takes up the whole void ſpace. In a word the Magnificence of that Mauſoleum is ſo great that 'tis enough to make thoſe who are wrapt up with the Pride and Vanity of this World wiſh for Death, if they might be aſſur'd of ſuch Glorious Monuments after their Deceaſe.

Having thus view'd the Magnificence of the Palace and Mauſoleums of the Great Duke, we come to the Curioſities of the City; where there are to be ſeen upon the Bridge that leads to the Grand Piazza, four Statues of White Marble repreſenting the four Seaſons; and in the Piazza ſtands a Braſs Statue upon a Pedeſtal of the ſame Metal, repreſenting Como de Medicis, the firſt Duke of Florence, together with his moſt remarkable Exploits, in Relief. This Piazza lies before the old Palace, on both ſides of which are to be ſeen the Statues of David and Hercules. To this Palace belongs a Tower which is a Hundred and Fifty Fathom high, without any other Foundations then thoſe of the Palace it ſelf, which gave an occaſion to the ſaying of the Florentines, that they have one Tower in the Air, another in the Water, meaning the Pharo of Livorn, and another in the Earth, which is the Steeple of Florence. Near the River is to be ſeen a large Column, upon which is plac'd the Statue of Juſtice in Porphyrie; upon which the Criticks have made two Burleſque Remarks; the one is that Juſtice is plac'd ſo high, that the poor cannot reach it; the other is, that ſhe turns her Back to thoſe places where Juſtice is uſually adminiſter'd.

It would be a great overſight not to viſit the Houſes of pleaſure belonging to the Grand Duke, of which the moſt conſiderable are Poggio Imperiale, Pratolino, aad Lampeggio; where the Arbours, the Alleys, the Labyrinths, Grotto's, Waterworks, and whatever can make any place delightful, are in their higheſt perfection. Strangers are often trickt near Cupid's Grotto in the Garden of Pratolino. For before they come at it, they are led a great way about; ſo that coming to the Seats that are not far off, they are willing to ſit down and reſt themſelves: But no ſooner are they ſate down, but the pillars of the Seat giving way to the weight of their Bodies, out flies the Water all of a ſndden, and waſhes 'em from Head to Foot.

Siena, with an Archbiſhoprick and a Univerſity, was formerly much more conſiderable then now it is, as having once contain'd above ſeventy five thouſand Inhabitants, whereas now there are not above Four and twenty Thouſand in the City. The Streets are broad and all pav'd with Brick. Formerly the Sienois, who had a great many Children were exempted from all manner of Impoſitions, in regard they had ſupply'd the Republick with ſeveral Members; and they who had no Children bare the Burthen of the Taxes.

The Cathedral is pav'd with ſpotted Marble, upon which is engrav'd the Sacrifice of Abraham, and ſeveral other Hiſtories of the Old Teſtament. The Roof is all of Azure, ſpangl'd with Stars of Gold: There are alſo to be ſeen the Marble Statues of ſeveral Popes and Emperors, together with Twelve Angels of Braſs, every one holding a Wax Taper in their hands. The Piazza of Siena is round, and the Houſes built exactly according to the Rules of Symmetry, ſupported by Arches like thoſe in the Royal Piazza in Paris, where you may walk Winter and Summer without being annoy'd either by Rain, or Sunſhine. The middle of the Piazza is hollowed like a Scallop Shell, and may be fill'd with Water from a Fountain adjoyning, for the Lanching of ſeveral Shallops into it, wherewith to imitate a Naval Engagement. And near to the Roman Gate, upon two high Pillars, ſtands a Wolf giving ſuck to Rhemus and Romulus.

But is Siena has loſt her ancient Splendour, Piſa▪ is no leſs unfortunate. For ſhe was once the moſt potent City of all Tuſcany; as having been Miſtreſs of the Iſlands of Corſe and Sardigna, as alſo of the City of Carthage, at what time above 50 Gallies might have been ſeen in her Harbour all belonging to her; but now ſhe is no longer remarkable for any thing elſe but her Archbiſhopprick, her Univerſity, and the Houſe of the Knights of St. Stephen; where ſeveral who prefer Celibacy before a Marry'd Life, are maintain'd at the Charges of the Order. They wear a Croſs of Red Sattin upon their Habits; and in St. Stephen's Church are to be ſeen ſeveral Flags, Ship-Lanthorns and Colours taken from the Turks by thoſe Knights.

The Steeple of the Domo is admir'd for the height of it, becauſe it ſeems to lean on one ſide, though in the judgment of skilful Workmen, it ſtands as upright as it is poſſible. This Church is ſupported by Seventy ſix Columns of Marble of all Colours, and has three Gates of Braſs▪ which they ſay belong'd to the Temple of Salomon. The Great Piazza is call'd Campo Santo, by reaſon it was fill'd up with a vaſt quantity of earth which the Galleys brought from Jeruſalem, in 1224.

Livorno or Ligorno. is a Sea-port Town within the Territories of Tuſcany, of which the Haven is accounted one of the ſafeſt and moſt convenient on that ſide, Now in regard the City is but new built, the Streets are large and ſtreight, and the Houſes very convenient, Here it is that the Duke's Galleys and Men of War lie. The Pharos, or Tower of Livorn is lookt upon to be one of the moſt beautiful, and moſt neceſſary in all Italy. One of the moſt Remarkable. Things in this City is the Marble Statue of Ferdinand. I. having under his Feet four Slaves of Braſs, in alluſion to the four Turkiſh Slaves who ſeiz'd one Night upon a Galley, with a deſign to have made their Eſcapes into Barbary, but were taken in the Act. Some ſay 'twas the Father and his Three Sons who came on purpoſe from Turkey by the Sultan's Order, to have Maſſaker'd the Grand Duke; but that their Deſign being diſcover'd, they were taken and puniſh'd according to their Deſerts.

CHAP. X. Of the Eccleſiaſtical State.

THIS State is called the Eccleſiaſtical State, becauſe the Pope is both the Spiritual and Temporal Sovereign of it. It is compos'd of Twelve Provinces; La Campagna di Roma, St. Peter's Patrimony, La Terra Sabina, Ombria, or the Dutchy of Spoleto, Orvietano, Perugia, the Earldom of the City of Caſtello, La Marca d' Ancona, the Dukedom of Ʋrbin, La Romagna, the Territories of Bologna and Ferrara. This State is bounded to the North by the Republick of Venice; to the South by the Dukedomes of Mantua and Modena; to the Weſt by the Grand Dukedome of Tuſcany; and to the Eaſt by the Kingdom of Naples.

The Pope is able to bring into the Field an Army of 50000 Foot and 10000 Horſe, and ought to have Twelve Galleys for the ſecurity of his Coaſts. The Revenues of the Holy See, amount to about Two Millions of God. But the Popes have a bleſſed and eaſie way to augment it when they pleaſe; and therefore Sixtus IV. had good reaſon to ſay, that he could never want Money ſo long as he had a Hand and a Pen. This eaſie way of filling the Apoſtolick Treaſuries with Money, has been the cauſe ſeveral Popes not having Children of their own to enrich, as Paul III. had, have ſolely apply'd themſelves to raiſe the Fortunes of their Nephews. Paul V. left the Prince of Salmone, his Nephew, a Revenue of a Thouſand Crowns a Day. And others have done well for Theirs, proportionably to the Times that they enjoy'd the Papal Chair; and by this means it was that the Number of Petty Princes multiply'd ſo greatly in Italy.

Beſides the Spaniſh Piſtoles, Piaſters, Sequins, and ſome other Foreign Pieces that are currant in the Eccleſiaſtical State, the Pope Coyns ſeveral ſorts of Money, viz. Piſtoles, Piaſters, Teſtons, Giulios, Gros, half Baioques, and Quatrini. The Popes Piſtole goes at 30 Giulio's, and the Spaniſh at 31: Three Giulio's make a Teſton; the Giulio is worth 5 Baioques, and one Baioque worth 5 Quatrini. One Baioque is worth 8 Deneers of France, the Giulio 3 Sols 4 Deneers; ſo that by that accompt the Eccleſiaſtical Piſtole is not worth above 100 Sols, Money of France.

Now in regard I intend a particular Chapter for the City of Rome, I ſhall in this Chapter mention only the other principal Cities of the Eccleſiaſtical State, and begin with Bologna, call'd, The Fat, becauſe of the Excellency and Fertility of the Soil. It is ſo delightfully built, that in the moſt part of the Streets you walk under Portico's ſecur'd from Rain and Sun: It is not above 5 Miles in Circuit; but if the Air were not ſo unwholſome, it would be one of the moſt pleaſant Abodes in Italy. Though it be under the Juriſdiction of the Holy See, yet is it lookt upon at Rome, rather as a Siſter then a Subject; in regard that by voluntarily ſurrendring her ſelf to the Church, ſhe has preſerv'd to her ſelf the freedom of ſending Ambaſſadors to Rome, from whence ſhe has Coadjurors; which is a kind of Bridle to curb the Power and Pride of the Legates.

The Bologneſe's alſo have this farther conſiderable Priviledge, that if one Citizen kills another, and that he can make his Eſcape, his Goods cannot be Confiſcated. There is alſo a Tower at Bologna, which by reaſon of the height of it, ſeems to lean on one ſide, like that of Piſa; which ſome aſſert to be an effect of Art; others that it was occaſion'd by an Earthquake. In the Treaſury of the Dominicans Church is to be ſeen a Manuſcript Bible in Parchment, which as they ſay was written by Eſdras with his own Hand. They who have a mind to viſit the Churches of Bologna, will ſee the Body of Katherine de Vigri, a Nun of the Order of Santa Clara, who though ſhe Dy'd in 1463, looks ſtill as freſh as if ſhe were but newly Dead. But that which is more wonderful is this, that every Month they pair her Nails, and cut her Hair once a Year before a great Number of Credible Perſons; nevertheleſs both the Hair and the Nails ſtill grow as if ſhe were Alive.

There are an infinite number of Country Seats in the parts adjacent to Bologna, but that of the Senator Volta ſurpaſſes all the reſt in Magnificence. There is an Inſcription there to be ſeen, which has puzzl'd the moſt Learned Wits of ſeveral Nations, For my part, I cannot aſpire to that Excellency; and therefore I ſhall only mention here the Interpretations of others. This Enigmatick Inſcription is in Latin, and 'tis ſaid to have been made by a perſon that was neither Man nor Woman, nor Hermaphrodite; that ſhe Dy'd neither of Hunger, nor Thirſt, nor by the Sword, nor by Poyſon, yet by all together; That ſhe was neither in the Water, nor in the Air, nor in the Earth, but in all at once; and that this Inſcription was made by Lycus Agatho Priſcus, who was neither her Husband, nor her Gallant, nor her Kinſman, but all three at one time. Many People have thought they could expound this Riddle; Some ſaying that it was Rain Water; Another Materia Prima; Another Chymical Mercury; And a Fourth aſcrib'd it to Love.

Since my Remarques have not led me out of Bologna, I cannot leave it without obſerving, that there is frequently ſeen in the Parts adjoyning to the City, a certain Meteor, toward the Appennine Mountain, when the weather is obſcure and dark, which is a Light almoſt as round as a Globe, by the Country People, call'd Bocca d'Inferno, the Mouth of Hell, becauſe it has ſo fall'n out, that Traveliers, having loſt their way in the Night, and following this Light at a diſtance, have been led into Precipices.

Ancona the Metropolis of Marca d'Ancona, is one of the ſtrongeſt places in the Eccleſiaſtical State, where the Magazines are always abundantly Stor'd with all things neceſſary for the defence of it. The Harbor was formerly in great requeſt, inſomuch that it was a Proverb, Porto d'Ancona, Torre di Cremona, e Petro di Roma; The Port of Ancona; The Tower of Cremona; And Peter of Rome. The Port was formerly lin'd with Marble, and the Ships were Moor'd to Pillars of Marble, ſet up all along the Haven at a certain diſtance one from the other. But Time and the Wars have ruin'd the greateſt part, and the Trade is gone off to other places. However, it ſtill preſerves a very fair Triumphal Arch, which the Romans erected in Honor of the Emperor Trajan.

Loretto is another City of Marca d'Ancona, Built upon a Hill, and well Fortify'd. This City has been Famous for ſome Ages, as being the Repoſitory of the Chamber where the Holy Virgin conceiv'd the Divine Word. This Chamber is about Four Fathom long, Two Broad, and as many in heighth. It is built of a Stone inclining to a Red colour, reſembling Brick, but much bigger and harder. There is alſo a little Chimney againſt one of the Walls on the Right ſide, with an old Cupboard, where they ſtill preſerve ſome Earthen Platters and Diſhes, which being found there when the Building was remov'd, make People believe that it was the Plate wherein the Holy Virgin was ſerv'd. Some years ſince they made a Silver Door to the Cupboard; and at the end of the Chamber is a Window, through whch the Angel enter'd when he brought her the Myſterious Tidings of the Incarnation. There is alſo the Portraicture of our Saviour, and of the Happy Virgin, which they would have the World believe was Drawn by St. Luke.

This Chamber is now inclos'd within a Chappel of the Church of Loretio, conſecrated to the Holy Virgin; and by the help of a Candle you may perceive that this Chamber ſtands upon no Foundation. There is a World of Riches in that Church, which has often tempted the Pyrates of Barbary to try whither they could be ſo fortunate as carry it away, but without any ſucceſs. Among the reſt of the Wealth, for it would be too tedious to give an Inventory of it all, there is to be ſeen two Crowns and a Dolphin of Maſſy Gold, which Ann of Auſtria Queen of France, gave that Church upon the Birth of Lewis XIV. an infinite number of Crowns, Lamps, Gold and Silver Candleſticks ſet with precious Stones. In the Treaſury of the Church are to be ſeen ſeveral ſumptuous Altar-Services; and among others, one made of Chryſtal; Candleſticks, Crevets, a Baſon and Eure, and the Foot of a Chalice, all of Amber. Another Service of Agate, another of Chryſtal of the Rock; another of Engrav'd or Carv'd Silver. I forbear to mention any more, that I may have room to ſay ſomething of the miraculous removal of this Chamber.

The Story is Engrav'd upon the Pillars of the Great Church in Thirteen ſorts of Languages, for the Information of Pilgrims; by which they are given to underſtand, That the Turks having begun to invade the Holy Land, GOD, unwilling that the Place where his Son receiv'd his Incarnation, ſhould be polluted by the Infidels, ordered the Angels to take this poor Domicil, and carry it the 9th of May 1291. from Nazareth in Galilee, where then it was, into Dalmatia, or as others ſay, into Slavonia: That Three or Four years after it was remov'd by thoſe Bleſſed Spirits into the Dioceſs of Reconati in Marca d'Ancona, upon the Lands belonging to a Pious Lady, whoſe Name was Loretta; but that the little Houſe being ſeated in a Wood, where often Robbers ſet upon the Pilgrims, it was afterwards remov'd halfe a League from thence upon a Hill, and then a little further to the Place where this Magnificent and Wealthy Church ſtands, and wherein this Chamber is now inclos'd, Before the Great Church ſtands a very fair Braſs Statue of Sixtus V. one of its Benefactors. Several Strangers viſit the Apartments of the Chapter-Houſe, which are very Superb, and ſufficient to Lodge the Courts of ſeveral Princes at a time. The Cellars are always repleniſhed with excellent Wine, not only for the Proviſion of the Governor, the Canons, and all the Eccleſiaſticks, but alſo for the Entertainment of the Princes, Cardinals, Biſhops, Ambaſſadors, and generally all the Pilgrims that reſort thither, of which there are an infinite number. The Storehouſe for Drugs and Medicines where the Pilgrims are ſupply'd with Phyſick gratis, is worth a Travsller's Obſervation. Among other things there are in that Infirmatory, Four Earthen Pots, upon which, Raphael Ʋrbin Painted the Four Evangeliſts, for which the King of France's Ambaſſador offer'd in exchange, in his Maſter's Name, Four Veſſels of Gold of the ſame bigneſs and thickneſs, but could not obtain his Requeſt, which caus'd a Saying, That Raphael's Fingers had a greater Virtue in 'em than Midas's, to change all things into Gold which they touch'd.

Ferrara, the Capital City of that Province, ſeated upon one of the Arms of the Po, has appertain'd to the Holy See, ever ſince the year 1597. at what time Alphonſo II. Duke of Ferrara, of the Houſe of D' Eſte, dying without Iſſue, the Apoſtolick Chamber ſeiz'd it into her hands, pretending it to be devolv'd to her; which could not be done without Revolutions, that did not a little contribute to the Ruine of the Inhabitants. This City bears the Title of a Dutchy, and is Adorn'd with a Biſhoprick: the Streets are alſo Fair, and the Palaces Magnificent. The Cathedral is the moſt Ancient in Italy. Pope Clement VIII. caus'd a Citadel to be built, conſiſting of Six Baſtions, which coſt him above Two Millions of Gold, and ſet up his Statue in the middle of the Piazza. Near the Gate of the new Piazza ſtand Two Braſs Statues of the Two Princes of the Houſe of d'Eſte, the one a Horſeback the other Sitting. Strangers muſt take notice, that before they can Lodge in the Inns of Ferrara, they muſt have a Ticket from the Town-Houſe.

Civita Vecchia is one of the beſt Sea-Port Towns in the Eccleſiaſtical State, where the Pope's Gallies generally ride. But it now begins to grow more conſiderable then ever, in regard the preſent Pope has Declar'd it a Free Port, and Granted Franchiſes and Priviledges, not only to Chriſtians, but alſo to the Jews that will ſettle there.

In the Province of Ʋmbria, near a place call'd Terni, there is a wonderful ſort of Earth, which in a time of Drowth, turns into Mudd, and in Rainy weather turns into Duſt. In the ſame Province is to be ſeen the Lake call'd Pie di Luco, of which, the Water, as they ſay, in a little time petrifies pieces of Wood that are thrown into it. The Lake of Norcia, of Norcera is no leſs remarkable, in the vulgar Opinion, who believe that the Devil walks there, and that the Magicians and Witches keep their Rendezvous upon the Banks of it. Nor is it leſs certain that the Inhabitants of the neighbouring Villages are often upon their Guards to interrupt thoſe ſorts of Meeting. The Sybils Cave is in that Quarter, the Subterraneal Concavity of which leads, as they report, into a very far Kingdom, where the Men and Women ſport all Day, and are turn'd into Serpents in the Night.

Viſiting the parts about Rome, you come to ſee Nariri an Epiſcopal City, anciently call'd The Wicked City, for that the Inhabitants finding themſelves conſtrain'd to Surrender, reſolv'd rather all of 'em to Die, and kill one another, then to be Spectators of their Enemies Victory. They began with cutting their Children's, their Siſter's and their Mother's Throats, ſoon after they did the ſame to their Wives, and then ſetting Fire to the Four corners of the City, fell a Maſſakring one another, till not one was left alive.

Before I conclude this Chapter, I muſt inform the Reader, that near Tivoli, an Epiſcopal City of La Campagna di Roma, there is a very deep Lake, in which there are ſeveral floating Iſlands, which when the Wind blows, are driven to the ſides of the Lake, by the motion of the Water. This Lake is about 500 paces in length, and in regard the Water is very Sulphury, 'tis thought that the boiling of the Water forces up the Mudd to the ſurface of the Lake, which ſticking to the Reeds and other Herbage, forms thoſe Iſlands, that in time grow bigger and bigger.

CHAP. XII. Of the City of Rome, and the Curioſities therein contain'd.

ROME, formerly the Metropolis of a Famous Empire, and now the Chief City of Chriſtendom, is-without contradiction the moſt Famous City of the Ʋniverſe. Her Fame is ſpread abroad to all the moſt diſtant parts of the World, where ſhe has manifeſtly made appear the puiſſance of her Arms, and the Proweſs of her Governors. Men may eaſily judge of the Strength and Power of the Ancient Romans, when they find that their Armies conſiſted of between Two hundred and fifty and Three hundred thouſand Men; when they had about 1500 Gallies, and an infinite number of other Veſſels: And Laſtly, That the bounds of their Empire were Euphrates, Mount Taurus, and Armenia Eaſtward; Aethiopia Southward; the Danaw to the North; and the Ocean to the Weſt. She has now acquir'd the Epithite of Holy, not only becauſe ſhe has been Dy'd with the Blood of an infinite number of Martyrs, but becauſe She is now the uſual Reſidence of the Popes, accounted the viſible Heads of the Roman Apoſtolical Church.

This Famous City was Founded in the Year of the World 3301. by Remus and Romulus, who were the Grand-children by Rhea Sylvia their Mother (for their Father is not known) of Numitor King of Albania: which has giv'n an occaſion to the Hiſtorians, to publiſh 'em to poſterity for the Sons of Mars, becauſe their Mother was found to be big with Child, thô She were in the number of the Veſtal Virgins. Theſe Two Founders could not agree about the Name, which they ſhould give their City: For ſome Authors will have it, that at firſt it was call'd Valencia; but the Diſputes between the Two Brothers being reconcil'd, or rather determin'd in favour of Romulus, he gave it the Name of Rome, and was the Firſt of the Seven Kings that Govern'd it. After which, ſhe had Conſuls till Julius Caeſar, who was the Firſt Emperor of Rome.

Thô this City has been Sackt and Burnt an infinite number of times, as well by Foreigners as by her own Citizens, yet has ſhe been ſo fortunate, as ſtill to preſerve ſome Lovely Remains of her Antiquity and Magnificence. However, She is neither ſo potent, nor ſo ſpacious as formerly She was; ſince Hiſtory aſſutes us, That once She was above Thirty Miles in compaſs, whereas now She incloſes no more then 23050 common Paces, and 360 Towres within the Circuit of her Walls and Suburbs. She had formerly thirty Gates, which occaſion'd as many High Roads that lead to 'em, which are ſtill pav'd with great Stones, and in many places adorn'd with Marble Pillars ſet up at every Miles end. And it was in thoſe High-ways, all along, that they Enterr'd their Dead; there being a Law which forbids Burials in the City. Now there are not above Nineteen Gates; of which we ſhall give you both the Ancient and Modern Names.

1. La Porta del Popolo, formerly Flaminia

2. Sancta Merodia's Gate, formerly Gabioſa.

3. La Porta Piciana, formerly Colatina.

4. The Latin Gate, formerly Terentia.

5. La Porta Agonia, formerly Quirinalis.

6. St. Sebaſtian's Gate, formerly Capena.

7. St. Agnes's Gate formerly Viminalis.

8. St. Paul's, or Oſtia-Gate, formerly Trigemina.

9. La Porta Ripa, formerly Portuenſis.

10. St. Laurence's Gate, formerly Eſquilina.

11. St. Pancrace's Gate, formerly Aurelia and Septima.

12. The Porta Maggiore, formerly Nevia.

13. La Porta Septimiana, formerly Fontinalis.

14. St. John's Gate, or Coeliomontana.

15. The Vatican Gate near Tiber.

16. La Porta Fabricia.

17. La Porta Pertuſa.

18. La Porta Angelica.

19. The Caſtle Gate.

Rome is Peopl'd with about 300000 Chriſtians, and about 8 or 10000 Jews, who are obliged every Saturday to hear a Fryar Preach upon their Incredulity. The whole Circuit of Rome encloſes ſeven Hills; but generally they never reckon above ſeven which are the biggeſt.

1. Monte Capitolino, where formerly ſtood the Temples of above Sixty Deities.

2. Monte Palatino, formerly the Manſion of the Ancient Kings, where ſtill are to be ſeen a great number of Subterraneal Vaults, and the Garden Farnaiſe, one of the moſt Lovely Gardens for Pleaſure in Italy.

3. Monte Aventino, where now ſtands Santa Sabina.

4. Monte Celio, which extends from St. Gregories to St. John de Laterano.

5. Monte Eſquelino, ſo call'd from the Watch that ſtood there.

6. Monte Vioninale, ſo call'd from the Oziers with which it was formerly overgrown. And

7. Monte Quirinale, now Monte Cavallo, ever ſince the ſetting up in that place of the two Marble Bucephalus's which Tiridates King of Armenia preſented to Nero. The Popes alſo have built upon it a Magnificent Palace for their Summer Habitation.

They reck'n fourſcore Pariſhes in Rome, and above Three hundred Churches: Of which the Seven principal, whither the People repair to obtain Indulgences, are St. Peter's in Vaticano, St. Paul's without the City, St. Maria Maggiore, St. Sebaſtians, St. John di Laterano, of the Holy Croſs of Jeruſalem, and St. Laurences. But in extream hot Weather they go to Sancta Maria del Popola, inſtead of St. Sebaſtians.

There are two ſorts of Government in Rome; that of the City, and that of the Church; and both the one and the other is in the hands of ſome Eccleſiaſtick upon whom the Pope confers it. The firſt has under him a Captain of a Hunderd Men, to be ready upon all occaſions to execute the Orders of the Civil Government. This Captain is call'd Bargello, and his Soldiers Sbirri.

It may be ſaid that there is no City in the World wherein the Civil Government is better ſettl'd then at Rome. All ſorts of Proviſions are rated in the Markets, in the Shops and in the Inns, where no body can ſell any thing but according to the Rate ſet. There are Bills ſet up in all Inns containing the Price of Bread, Wine and Meat, &c. and-for the Information of Strangers, and to the end that the Inn-keepers may not deceive thoſe who are ignorant of the Language, or who cannot read, the Sbirri many times ſtop Strangers in the Streets, to know of 'em where they Lodge, and what they pay a Meal, to the end that they who offend againſt the Orders of the Civil Government may be ſoundly fin'd; and the better to take the Inn-keepers napping, many times the Sbirri go and Lodge in the Inns, in the Diſguiſe of Forreigners, eſpecially where they have any ſuſpicion.

As to the Eccleſiaſtical Government, it reſides in the Perſon of the Pope, or the Cardinal Patron under the Character of his Vicar General. When there is any thing to be regulated, the Pope calls a Congregation, where not only the Cardinals are preſent, but the Biſhops and Doctors; and if any Important Affairs of the Church are in Agitation, they are propos'd in a Conſiſtory, which the Pope uſually holds every 15 Days, where all the Cardinals that are in Rome muſt be preſent.

None but the Cardinals, whoſe Aſſembly is call'd the Sacred Colledge, have any Right in the Election of the New Pope. This Name of Cardinal was formerly given to all the Curates of Pariſhes in Rome. Nor was it till after the Famous Council held at Rome, in the Pontificare of Nicholas II. in 1053. that the Cardinals aſſum'd to themſelves the only Right of chooſing the Soveraign Pontiff. Their number is fix'd to Seventy, viz. Fifty Prieſt Cardinals, Fourteen Deacon Cardinals, and Six Biſhop Cardinals, which are the Biſhops of Porto, Oſtia, Sabina, Paleſtrina, Freſcari, and Albano. For theſe Biſhopprick Suffragans to the Pope, as their Metropolitain are always enjoy'd by a Cardinal.

At the Council of Lion held in 1243. Pope Innocent IV. gave the Red Cap to the Cardinals. Paul II. in 1464. allow'd 'em Red Habits; Gregory XIV. gave a Red Bonnet to the Regular Cardinals, who before that time wore only a Hat, and Ʋrban VIII. allow'd 'em the Title of Eminency, till then addreſt to by no other Title than that of Illuſtriſſimo.

At the Time of the Promotion of Cardinals, the Pope being then in the Conſiſtory, tells the Cardinals that are preſent, You have for your Brethren, N. N. and then he cauſes the Liſt of their Names and Qualities to be read. Which done the Cardinal Patron ſends for thoſe who are at Rome, and carries 'em to the Pope to receive the Red Bonnet at his Hands I and in the next firſt Conſiſtory, His Holineſs gives 'em the Hat, and this Ceremony is call'd the Opening and Shuting the Mouths of the New Cardinals. As for thoſe that are abſent, the Pope diſpatches away an Expreſs to carry 'em the Bonnet; but they are oblig'd to go to Rome, to receive the Hat from His Holineſſes Hands. The Cardinals Habits, are a Caſſock, a Rochet, a Mantelet, the Mozette, and the Papal Cope upon Solemn Days. The Colour of their Habit varies according to the Seaſon, ſometimes Light Crimſon, ſometimes Violet, ſometimes Murrey, or a very dark Crimſon, The Cardinals are in great Reputation at Rome, and have great Priviledges: Among which one of the moſt conſiderable is, that if a Cardinal chances to paſs through any place where any Criminal is led to Puniſhment, the Cardinals preſence gives a full Pardon for his Crime.

The place where the Cardinals meet in order to the Election of a new Pope when the See is vacant, is call'd the Conclave. This Conclave is not fix'd to any place, but is in the power of the Cardinals to make choice of any place which they ſhall deem convenient. However in regard the Vatican is the moſt commodious for many Reaſons, this Aſſembly has been held there for a long time; ſo that the Deliberation of the Cardinals about the Choice of a place for the Conclave is no more then a bare Formality.

There are ſo many Cells as there are Cardinals, erected in a ſpacious Apartment of the Palace; which Cells are made of Deal-Boards, every Cardinals Conclaviſt having his Partition alſo, who is a Perſon ſhut up with the Cardinal to wait upon him. When the Cells are ready, they are drawn by Lot, and every Cardinal furniſhes his own, and ſets up his Arms over the Door. The Cells are finiſh'd in Nine Days, by which time the Pope's Funeral Obſequies being over, upon the Tenth, the Cardinals that are at Rome, enter the Conclave; and without ſtaying for the Arriual of the Abſent Cardinals, labour Morning and Evening in the Election of the Pope. When the abſent Cardinals arrive at Rome, they ſpend ſome Days in Viſits, and repoſing themſelves, and then they enter the Conclave alſo.

So ſoon as the Pope is Dead, the Publick is inform'd of it by the ringing of a Bell that hangs in the Capitol, and which is never towl'd upon any other occaſion. At the ſame time Courriers are diſpatch'd to all the Sovereign Princes of Europe that profeſs the Roman Catholick Religion, to inform 'em of the Pope's Death, The Cardinal Chamberlain removes to the Palace, and takes poſſeſſion of the Fiſhermans Ring, which was the Deceaſed Pope's Signet, and breaks it to pieces, becauſe all Diſpatches of Bulls ceaſe during the Vacancy of the See. Afterwards he gives out all neceſſary Orders for the Pope's Funeral, whoſe Body is Embaulm'd and carry'd into a Chappel of St. Peter's Church, and expos'd upon a Bed of State, for the People to come and kiſs his Feet through a Grate. The Funeral Obſequies laſt Nine Days, and the Ceremony is perform'd by the Sacred Colledge. During the Vacancies of the Holy See, the Three Chiefs of the Orders of the Colledge, viz. the Dean of the Cardinal Biſhops, the firſt Cardinal Prieſt, and the firſt Cardinal Deacon, have in their hands the whole Government of the City and Eccleſiaſtical State, and before they ſhut themſelves up in the Conclave, they iſſue forth all neceſſary Orders for the Publick Security as well in Rome as in all the Cities of the State.

I ſhall not enter into a particular deſcription of the manner of Electing Popes ſince Linus's time, who was the firſt that ſucceeded St. Peter till this preſent time, as well for that it would carry me too far, as for that the Eccleſiaſtical Hiſtory has amply ſatisfy'd that piece of Curioſity. 'Tis obſervable in that Hiſtory, that the People and the Clergy joyntly, and ſometimes the Clergy alone proceeded to this Election; that at other times the Princes and Emperors have aſſum'd to themſelves the power of appointing whom they pleaſed to be Popes, and reſerv'd the Confirmation alſo to themſelves: That Lewis the Debonaire, and his Succeſſors Lotharre I. and Lewis II. reſtor'd the Liberty of Election to the Church in the Ninth Age: That it was again taken from her in the Reign of Otho I. and not reſtor'd to her again till in the Twelfth Age. But now briefly to the manner of Election in uſe at this day.

The Cardinals that compoſe the Conclave repair Morning and Evening to the Chappel, to make the Scrutiny; to which purpoſe they carry every one of 'em a little Ticket, wherein is written the Name of the Cardinal for whom they give their Suffrage for the Pontificate: This Billet alſo contains the Name of the Cardinal Elector, which nevertheleſs is inclos'd in a Cover and ſeal'd up, and inſtead of a Superſcription ſuch a Motto or ſhort ſaying as the Perſon thinks of; as for example, God is my Help.—The Holy Ghoſt be my Guide. Every Cardinal throws his Billet into a Chalice that ſtands upon the Altar of the Chappel of the Conclave; and after all the Tickets are in, two Cardinals are appointed to open the firſt Fould of the Ticket, and read aloud the Perſons Nam'd to the Pontificate which are writ down in a Regiſter, yet not breaking open the Seal that encloſes the Name of him that gives his Suffrage, unleſs it be found that two Thirds of the Suffrages are for one and the ſame Perſon, which is the number requiſite to render the Election Authentick; but then the Seals are broke open, and the New Pope has the ſatisfaction to know who were the Perſons that contributed to his Election. This Scrutiny alſo continues till two Thirds of the Voices meet; and after reading of the Scrutiny, if the two Thirds of the Suffrages do not agree upon the ſame Perſon, then they have recourſe to that which they call Anough; that is to ſay, that every one is at Liberty to give his Voice for him who had the moſt by the Scrutiny, with this Reſervation, that the Perſon is not permitted to give his Voice, by the Anough, for him to whom they had given it by the Scrutiny. But if at length, neither the Scrutiny, nor the Anough determine the Election, all the Tickets are burnt, to the end the Names of the Electors may be kept ſecret. Sometimes the Election is carry'd by way of Inſpiration, as they call it, which is as it were an open Declaration, ſeveral Cardinals crying out at the ſame time, ſuch a one Pope. But this is never us'd, but when They who make that Exclamation are aſſur'd that they ſhall be upheld by the Suffrages of two Thirds of the Aſſembly.

When any one of the Cardinals is Elected. Pope, the Maſters of the Ceremonies repairs to his Cell, to carry him the Tidings of his Exaltatation; after which he is conducted to the Chappel, and Rob'd with the Pontifical Habit: Which done he receives the Adoration of the Cardinals; that is to ſay, the Reſpects which they are accuſtom'd to pay the Sovereign Pontiff. That done, they ſeat him in the Pontifical Chair, and ſet him upon the Altar of the Apoſtles in St. Peter's Church▪ where the Cardinals perform the Ceremony of Adoration a ſecond time. From thence his Holineſs is reconducted to his Apartment, and ſome Days after they proceed to the Ceremony of his Coronation, as of a Temporal Prince. And here are to be obſerv'd the two Qualifications of a Pope; the one is as he is the Soveraign Pontiff and Head of the Church; the other, as he is a Temporal Prince, and Sovereign of a conſiderable State.

The Ceremony of the Coronation is perform'd in St. Peter's Church, where there is a Throne erected, to which the new Pope aſcends, and being ſeated▪ his Miter is taken off, and the Crown ſet upon his Head before all the People. And then begins the Cavalcade from St. Peters to St. John di Laterano, at what time all the Cardinals, Princes, and Ambaſſadors accompany him on Horſeback. Being arriv'd at St. John di Laterano, the Archbiſhop of that Church preſents the Pope with two Keys, the one of Gold, the other of Silver; and after he has given the Canons leave to kiſs his Feet, his Holineſs is attended back to his Palace with the ſame Ceremony.

In the Account which I am going to give of the Curioſities in Rome moſt worthy the obſervation of a Traveller, I ſhall endeavour to omit nothing conſiderable of what came to my knowledge, and begin with a Deſcription of the Churches, which are the faireſt and beſt adorn'd of any in the World.

The Church of St. Peter is deſervedly lookt upon to be the moſt beautiful, the largeſt and the moſt Superb in Europe. It is built in the Form of a Croſs, 840 Geometrical Paces in length, 725 in breadth, 300 high, and 1465 in Circuit. The Roof of it is guilt, and it is cover'd with Lead and Copper guilt. The whole Structure is lin'd with Marble within and without ſide; and it is pav'd with ſquare panes of Marble: Above one hundred Pillars ſupport the Roof. of which the ancient Emperors deſpoyl'd Aſia: Among the reſt there are Twelve that Veſpatian brought away from the Temple of Solomon. I ſay nothing of the Riches that gliſter in all the Chappels of the Church, nor of the infinite number of Relicks which are there preſerv'd. Thoſe for which the People have the greateſt Veneration are the Vail of St. Veronica, with the Picture of our Saviour's Face; the Lance that was run into his Body; St. Peter's Wooden Pulpit, with the Bodies of ſeveral Saints. The Portico of this Church is 289 Foot long, 40 broad, and 133 in height; and it has five Doors that anſwer to the five Doors of the Church; of which one is call'd the Holy Door, as being never open'd but in time of Jubilee.

Over the Domo of the Church ſtands a Cupola, or Globe of Copper guilt, which below ſeems not to be a Foot in Diameter, nevertheleſs it will hold above Twenty Men. After you have aſcended a great number of Steps, you come to a Ladder of Eighteen Rounds which joyns to the Foot that ſuſtains the Globe, ſo that you muſt get up with great trouble by the help of a Rope that is faſten'd above, and hangs down by the ſide of the Ladder. This Globe is about a Fingers breadth in thickneſs, having no more than four ſmall Clefts, two Inches broad, and ſix high to let in the Light, and two Iron Bars run a-croſs it for People to ſit upon. 'Tis obſervable that no Body is permitted to go into it in the heat of Summer, for fear of being ſtifl'd. 'Tis ſaid that St. Peter's Church coſt Forty Three Millions of Gold, and was the Work of Twenty three Popes.

The Church of St. John, di Laterano, is very conſiderable, as well for the Antiquity of it, as for that it is the Epiſcopal Church of Rome; and becauſe there it is, that the Pope takes Poſſeſſion of his Dignity. There it was alſo where the Emperors receiv'd a Crown of Gold: It is all Pav'd with Marble, and ſupported with Four rows of Guilded Pillars. Before the Church ſtands an Obelisk, a Hundred and fifteen Foot high, erected by Sixtus V. This Church was built by Conſtantine the Great, after his Converſion, in the year 318. and enrich'd with ſeveral Crowns of Maſſie Gold and Silver. The Kings of France have a Right to preſent Two Canons of this Church to his Holineſs, in conſideration of the Great Benefits this Church has receiv'd from His Moſt Chriſtian Majeſty; and there is a Solemn Service ſaid in it every year in Memory of Henry IV. of France.

There is to be ſeen enchac'd in the Great Altar, another little Altar, upon which they ſay, that St. Peter and ſome of his Succeſſors ſaid Maſs, before they could be admitted the Publick exerciſe of Divine Worſhip. However, it were, no body muſt ſay Maſs upon this Altar but the Pope himſelf, or a Cardinal that repreſents his Perſon, and he muſt have an Apoſtolick Brief for that too. A Chair of Porphyrie is alſo ſhown to Foreigners, wherein the Pope Seats himſelf at the Door of the Church, when he takes Poſſeſſion of the Papacy. There are a World of Relicks in this Church, as the Ark of the Old Teſtament, Moſes's Rod, the Heads of St. Peter, St. Paul, and St. Zacharie, &c. too tedious to be here repeated.

Upon one ſide you aſcend to St. John de Laterano, by the Scala Santa, or Holy Ladder, which are Twelve Steps of White Marble, the ſame by which Chriſt aſcended into Pilates Palace, and which Helena ſent from Jeruſalem to her Son Conſtantine, then at Rome. People creep up theſe Stairs upon their Knees out of Devotion.

St. Anaſtaſius's Church was formerly the Temple of Neptune.

The Church of St. Theodore was formerly the Temple of Romulus and Remus; and as it is ſaid, 'tis built in the very ſame place where the Two Founders of Rome were Suckl'd by the Wolfe. The Hoſpital of Noſtra Madonna of Conſolation, was the Temple of Veſta, where the Veſtal Virgins kept the Sacred Fire.

St. Agnes's Church was formerly the Temple of Bacchus; That of St. Alexis upon Mount Aventine, was the Temple of Hercules. Upon St. Anthony of Padua's Day, the People bring all manner of Beaſts to his Church in the Martian Valley, in hopes that Saint will preſerve 'em from all Sickneſs, and from the devouring Jaws of the Wolfe. Sta. Barba's in the Quarter of Pigna, was the Temple of Venus. St. Bartholomews in the Iſland, was the Temple of Jupiter and Eſcubapius. St. Blaſe's in the Field of Mars, was another Temple of Neptune. St. Coſmo and St. Damian was another Temple, formerly Dedicated to Romulus and Remus. St. Laurences by Janicola was the Temple of Juno-Lucina. St. Lucius near the Palace, was the Temple of Apollo. St. Maries upon the Capitoline Hill was the Temple of Jupiter Feretrius. St. Nerea's was the Temple of Iſis. Sta. Sabina up the Aventine Mount was the Temple of Diana.

St. Martin's Church in the Mount, is remarkable for the Vault, which, as they ſay, was the Place wherein the Chriſtian Religion was Firſt exerciſed, and where St. Sylveſter held Two Councils, during the perſecution of the Church. The Church of the Holy Croſs in Jeruſalem, which is one of the Seven Conſecrated to the Croſs, was built by Conſtantine, out of the ruins of the Temple of Venus and Jupiter; and becauſe the Infidels had erected the Statue of Venus upon Mount Calvarie, and had given the Name of that Goddeſs to the Mount. Sta. Helena caus'd the Superficies of the Mountain to be par'd off, and ſent the Earth to the Emperor Conſtantine her Son, who put it into the Chappel of that Church, where it is kept among the reſt of the Reliques.

St. Pauls Church, a Mile without the City, was alſo founded by Conſtantine, in Honour of that Apoſtle, who lies there Enterr'd. It is 477 Foot Long, 258 Broad, and is ſupported by 100 Pillars of White Marble, in Four Rows. The Church of St. Maries de la Rotonda, formerly the Pantheon, is a conſiderable Structure, as well for that Agrippa, who was the Founder of it, ſet up the Statues of all the Ancient Deities therein, in that order of Dignity which the Heathens aſcrib'd to 'em; as for that the Model of ſeveral new Churches has been taken from the round Form of it. This ſame Structure is a Hundred and forty Foot high, and as many Broad, without Pillars, having no other ſupport then that of the Walls; which makes it lookt upon, as one of the boldeſt pieces of Architecture that is in Italy. There is no Light but what comes in at the Door, and at an Overture, about Eight Fathom in circumference, it the top of the Church. This Building was formerly cover'd with Plates of Silver, afterwards of Copper, and ſince that with Lead; but now Laſtly, at this day with Large Stones.

There are a great many Hoſpitals in Rome, every Nation having one particularly belonging to it. But the Hoſpital of the Trinity, erected by Clement VIII. actually maintains Five thouſand Perſons; not to mention ſuch as come by chance. In the Apoſtles Church, there is to be ſeen every year an Election of Twelve Gentlemen and one Prelate, for the diſtribution of Alms to ſuch as are aſham'd to make known their Neceſſities; and to the end they may be the more eaſily diſcovered, there are ſeveral Boxes Lock'd up, and ſet up in Publick Places, having little Grates at the top, wherein they who are in want, may put in little Notes containing the Places of their Abode.

There are alſo Houſes for young Girls of Ten or Twelve years of Age, when their Parents are not able to provide for 'em, for fear leſt Poverty ſhould tempt 'em to proſtitute themſelves. There is another Houſe, over the Gate of which is to be read this Inſcription, Per le Donne mal maritate. For the Women ill Married; Where they put ſuch Women as are unfortunately Married, or cannot agree with their Husbands: and where they ſtay till their differences are reconcil'd, and that the one or the other teſtifies a deſire to live peaceably together.

All ſorts of lewd Strumpets that ſignifie a deſire to Repent and Reform their Lives, are admitted into St. Mary Magdalains in Corſe, and are there maintain'd all the reſt of their Lives: Nor are they Lock'd up by force, as in the Spinning-Houſe, in Amſterdam; but they muſt ſee no Men, unleſs it be their Confeſſor and their Phyſitian.

They who report that Brothel-houſes are permitted in Rome, ſay true; but not when they add that the Pope approves 'em, and receives a Tribute from 'em. For there is a great difference between approving and conniving. Judaiſm is no more approved in Italy, then in England and Holland, thô the Jews are ſuffer'd in all theſe places, and have their Publick Synagogues. And the Popes are ſo far from laying any Tribute upon the infamous Traffick of the Daughters of Joy, that they have been the Founders of ſeveral Hoſpitals for the maintenance of young Girls, whoſe Fathers and Mothers are not able to keep 'em, leſt Poverty ſhould tempt them to Libertiniſm: and they are maintain'd in thoſe Houſes, till they are of an Age to Marry, or enter into a Religious Houſe; and they that are diſpos'd to Marry, have a reaſonable Portion allow'd 'em, proportionable to the Match that offers it ſelf, and every Annunciation Day, there is a conſiderable Sum of Money diſtributed in the Dominicans Church to 300 young Virgins that are in thoſe Hoſpitals.

The Laws in reſpect of common Proſtitutes are very rigorous: they are forbid to come into the Aſſemblies of Honeſt Women, or to frequent the places where they walk to take the Air: they muſt not go in a Coach in the Day time; nor ſtirr out of their Houſes in the Night; nor may they converſe together, to the end they may have no opportunity to encourage one another to debaucherie. They are forbid upon pain of exemplary Puniſhment, to admit any company into their Houſes during Lent, nor during the Advent. They are bound to Regiſter their Names in the Publick Regiſters, kept on purpoſe for the Curtiſans; who by that means are lookt upon as infamous for ever. They are not admitted to the Holy Communion, nor Buried in Holy Ground, but in the naſty places along by the Walls of the City. Laſtly, they cannot make a Will, ſo that if they leave any Eſtate behind 'em, which is very rarely, 'tis all confiſcated for the Benefit of the Hoſpitals for young Virgins.

Thoſe Places which they call Catacombs, are certain Subterraneal Walks, or Caverns. where the Primitive Chriſtians performed the Exerciſes of their Religion, during the Perſecutions of the Pagan Emperors, and where they privately alſo held ſome Councils. The Catacombs, moſt known in Rome, are thoſe that open into the Churches St. Pancras, St. Sebaſtian, St. Agnes, and St. Laurence. They who have gone through 'em report, That they run almoſt quite under the City, even under the River Tiber. Theſe Vaults are for the moſt part about Five Foot High, and Three in Breadth. By the ſides of which lie the Bodies of ſeveral Saints and Martyrs, from whence the Pope cauſes the Holy Bodies to be taken up, and Preſents 'em to Princes and Ambaſſadors, by ſuch Names as his Holineſs thinks proper to give 'em. There are ſome Places in theſe Catacombs, where People are forc'd to crawl along upon their Bellies, for Twenty or Thirty Paces: and ſeveral Perſons that have gone thither to viſit the Tombs of the Ancient Chriſtians have laid their own Bones in the ſame place. For being engag'd too far without good Guides, they have loſt themſelves; either their light failing 'em before they can find the way out again. or elſe being ſtifl'd with the ſmoak of the Torches.

The Palace of St. Peter's of the Vatican, where the Popes uſually reſide in Winter, is ſeated in the Burrough, the beſt fortify'd place in all the City. This Palace is of a very vaſt extent, in regard it côntains above 5000 Rooms and Chambers. It has three rows of Galleries adorn'd with Pictures, repreſenting the Principal Hiſtories of the Old and New Teſtament. In the Chambers alſo are an infinite Number of Marble and Alablaſter Statues; more eſpecially there is a Stone to be admir'd in the Imperial Chamber, upon which Nature has form'd the Image of Pius V. more exactly then any Pencil could have drawn it upon Cloth. This Palace ſo call'd from the Name of the Hill upon which it is ſeated, was begun in the Pontificate of Nicholas V. and finiſh'd under Leo V. but was embelliſh'd with Painting and Statues by Sixtus V. Clement VIII. Ʋrban VIII. and their Succeſſors, who have made it a Palace fit for the Reſidence of the Severeign Pontiffs. In the midſt of the Gallery that leads to Belvedere, ſtands the Vatican Library, which is lookt upon to be the faireſt and the moſt famous for Number and Curioſity of Books in the World. There are an infinite Variety of Manuſcripts in Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Arabick, &c. Writings upon Leaves of Wood, and Tablets of Wax, of which they made uſe before the invention of Paper. There is a large Manuſcript Hebrew Bible, and another Hebrew Bible written upon pieces of Parchment roll'd up, from whence the Latin word Volumen, with another Manuſcript written upon the Leaves of a Tree, as the Cuſtome was in thoſe days, whence the Latin word Folium for the Leaf of a Book. Laſtly, There is a Greek Bible, which as they aſſure us, was one of the Seventy Copies of the Seventy Interpreters who Tranſlated the Old Teſtament by the Command of Ptolomy Philadelphus, being ſhut up every one apart by themſelves.

Before they leave the Vatican, Travellers go to ſee the Garden of Belvedere, ſo call'd becauſe from that place you have a proſpect over the whole City. 'Tis to be obſerv'd that what we call a Garden of Pleaſure, in Italy they call a Vinyard. This Vinyard of Belvedcre is remarkable for an infinite number of Marble. Braſs, and Alablaſter Statues; among which is the Statue of the River Tiber, reſting upon a Wolf that gives ſuck to Romulus and Rhemus; and on the other ſide Nilus with Seventeen Children, every one about a fathom in height, denoting the Seventeen various meaſures to which the Waters of that River encreaſe. There is alſo to be ſeen a Cleopatra expiring after her being bitten by a Serpent twiſted about her Arm; a Venus Ericina coming out of a Bath; the Statues of Bacchus, Mercury, Apollo, and Laocoon and his Children folded about with two Surpents.

The Piazza of the Vatican, commonly call'd St. Peter's Piazza, is one of the faireſt in Rome, adorn'd with a Fountain that ſpouts up the Water, as big about as a Man's Middle, and as high as a Half-Pike; and an Obelisk, which is call'd the Needle by reaſon of the ſhape and height of it. This is a Stone that was brought from Egypt, by the Command of Caligula, at an incredible charge, and was ſet up in Nero's Circus; but Sixtus V. caus'd it to be remov'd into the Vatioan Piazza. It is 217 Foot high, comprehending the Baſis about 12 Foot in circumference below, and 8 at the top. It is ſupported by four Lions of Braſs guilt, that ſtand upon a large Pedeſtal of Marble.

The Caſtle of St. Angelo is one of the beſt Fortreſſes in Italy, and has been the Sanctuary of ſeveral Popes in the Troubles of Italy. Alexander VI. built a private Coridor, or Gallery, which leads from the Palace of St. Peter, to the Caſtle, to the end the Popes might retire in a Time of neceſſity without being ſeen. Priſoners of State are committed thither; and the Treaſure of the Church, the Records and Rolls, the Triple Crown, with the five Millions which Sixtus V. laid up there, with a prohibition upon pain of Excommunication to all his Succeſſors, forbiding 'em to touch it, but upon a moſt urgent neceſſity for the defence of the City, to which end that Sum was only deſign'd. As to the Name of the Caſtle, it was ſo call'd, as they ſay, from the Statue of an Angel that ſtands at the top of the Frontiſpiece with a Sword in his Hand, in memory of St. Gregories Viſion, in which an Angel appear'd to him ſheathing his Sword, to let him underſtand that the Wrath of God was appeasd toward the Romans, who had been very much afflicted with War, Peſtilence and Famine.

Near the Caſtle is a Bridge over the Tiber, call'd St. Angelo's Bridge, built almoſt in the ſame place where formerly ſtood the Triumphal Bridge, by reaſon that all the Triumphs that were decreed in Rome, paſs'd that way. But now we ſee no more remaining but only the ſad Ruines of that Pompous Vanity, it being the Will of God, that that piece of ſolemn Luxury ſhould be quite extinct, by reaſon the Exceſs of thoſe Triumphs was grown to that degree of Exorbitancy, that had the uſe of 'em continu'd, Men would have been made uſe of inſtead of Beaſts to draw the Victors Chariot. Camillus's was drawn by four White Horſes; Pompey's by four Elephants; Mark-Antony's by four Lyons; and Nero's by four Hermophradites; Aurelian's by ſix Harts, and Firmius's by ſix Oſtriches.

The Capitol is one of the moſt ancient Buildings in Rome, ſo call'd from the Head of a Man that was found when the Foundations of it were laid by the Orders of Tarquin the Proud. The Structure was finiſh'd and cover'd with Braſs guilt in the Conſulſhip of Pulvillus. Catulus conſecrated it to Jupiter Capitolinus; and it was adorn'd with a great number of Statues of Maſſie Gold and Silver, which repreſented the Ancient Roman Magiſtrates and Conſuls, and it had 3000 Braſs Tables when one part of it was conſum'd by Fire. Nor was that the only Fire which defac'd this Building, for it was again burnt down in Sylla's time: A third time in the Reign of Domitian; and a fourth under Commodus. So that it wants that Wealth and Magnificence which formerly render'd it ſo famous. An Aſcent of 128 Steps led up to it, and there are ſtill remarkable in it for curious pieces of Workmanſhip two Statues of Conſtantine upon two Horſes of Marble, and in the Grand piazza ſtands a Braſs Statue of Marcus Aurelius Antoninus on Horſe-back. The Palace of the Conſervators, which is alſo a part of the Capitol, is adorn'd with an infinite number very curious Statues.

Upon the Quirinal Hill are to be ſeen the Ruines of Conſtantine's Bathing Places. Theſe ſorts of Buildings were very large and ſumptuous in every reſpect; and there are alſo to be ſeen at Rome ſome Ruines of the Emperors Alexander, Severus, Nero, Titus, Trajan, Philippus, and Caracalla's Baths.

They that are very curious are eaſily led to ſee upon the Palatin Hill, the Lake or Gulf of Curtius, a kind of an Abyſs whence formerly iſſued forth a Stench that caus'd the Peſtilence in Rome, upon which the Oracle being conſulted, return'd for Anſwer, that the Contagion ſhould not ceaſe, till they had thrown into the Gulph whatever Rome had of moſt precious. Preſently the Roman Ladies threw in all their Jewels; but that not availing Curtius, a Roman Knight, imagining there was nothing more pretious than a Brave and a Valiant Man, and willing to ſignalize his Preſumption and his Zeal for his Country, threw himſelf headlong Horſe and Man into the Abyſs, and then the Plague ceas'd.

In that Quarter which is call'd the Field of Mars, ſtands Antoninus's Pillar, upon which are repreſented in half Relief the Glorious Actions of that Emperor againſt the Armenians, the Parthians, the Germans, &c. Two hunder'd and ſeven Marble Steps lead up to the top of it, the Light coming in at ſix little Windows. It conſiſts of no more then Eight and twenty Marble Stones, which being joyn'd together, make a Hundred ſeventy five Foot in heighth. Of late they have plac'd upon the top of it a Statue of St. Paul of guilt Braſs.

Trajan's Column in the Piazza of the ſame Name conſiſts of no more then four Stones that riſe to 140 Foot in heighth; to the top of which there is an Aſcent of 185 Steps, enlighten'd by 44 Windows. Formerly they had ſet upon the top of this Column an Urn with Trajan's Aſhes in it; but that is ſince taken down, and the Statue of St. Peter in Braſs erected in the room of it.

Nor muſt I bury in ſilence the Statues of Paſquin and Manforio; for they that talk ſo often of others, muſt not be themſelves forgotten. It is call'd the Statue of Paſquin, becauſe that all the Satyrs which are made in Rome, call'd Paſquinades are always fix'd upon it. Some ſay this Statue was erected in Honour of one of Alexander's Soldiers who had done him many ſignal Services. Others reject this Opinion, and tell us that the Word Paſquin is deriv'd from a Taylor who made Cloaths for Perſons of Quality in Rome; and in regard he was a very great Droll, he obſerv'd their blind ſides, to make Lampoons upon 'em in his Shop, which always gain'd him good Company. They add that ſometime after his Deceaſe the Paviers digging before his Door found a Statue, to which they preſently gave the Name of Paſquin, and ſet it up in the next Quarter to his Houſe. However it were, it was propos'd to one of the Popes, that it might be thrown into Tiber, to take away all Opportunities of Libelling and Lampoons that were fix'd upon it. But the Holy Father made anſwer that he was afraid it would turn to a Frog that would be croaking Day and Night: intimating thereby, that inſtead of ſtopping the Courſe of Satyrs, the Lampooners would fix 'em upon all the Statues in the City.

Not far from the Capitol ſtands another Statue call'd Manforio, where generally are hung up the Anſwers made to the Lampoons which are fix'd upon Paſquin. Some ſay this Statue was erected in honour or Jupiter Panarius; others that it is a Statue of the Rhine. becauſe that formerly the Emperot Domitian's Brazen Horſe ſet his Foot upon the Head of it.

There is no City in the World wherein there are more Magnificent Palaces. The Learned Mr. Spon, in his Travels into the Eaſt has given us a Catalogue of 'em, which has ſav'd me the trouble. I ſhall only ſay, that the Palace of the Farnezi is one of the moſt ſumptuous. It has four Fronts with a large Gate belonging to every one that leads into the Court, and is ſurrounded with Pillars forming Portico's that ſupport an open Gallery that leads to every Apartment, In this Court ſtand two Statues of Hercules leaning upon his Club; one of which was found in Caracalla's Baths; the other is an Imitation of That. In the Palace Hall ſtands the Statue of Alexander Farneze, Duke of Parma, who tramples under foot two Statues repreſenting Hereſie and Rebellion, while Fame ſets a Crown upon his Head. This Piece is ſo much the more eſteem'd, becauſe all the four Peices are all of one ſingle Stone of White Marble. There are an infinite number of other Lovely Statues and Pictures in the Apartments belonging to this Palace: More particularly there is to be ſeen a Marble Statue in a ſmall Back-Court, repreſenting the Figure of a Bull, all of one Stone, having one of the Horns ty'd with a Woman's Hair, while two Men endeavour to throw 'em into the Sea. 'Tis the Hiſtory of Amphion and Zethes, who in revenge of the injury done their Mother, whom Lycus King of Thebes had repudiated, upon the Importunity of Dirce, ty'd Dirce to the Horns of a Bull, and caſt 'em both Headlong into the Sea.

One of the Curioſities of Rome, which Strangers always viſit, is to be found in Prince Ludoviſio's Palace; that is to ſay, the Body of a Man petrefy'd and laid in a Velvet Box, with one Leg broken, to convince the Incredulity of the Curious, who will not believe that the Skeleton was cover'd with Stone, becauſe they ſay it was a Garment made on purpoſe. This juſtifies what Ortelius affirms, That upon certain Mountains of Tartary, there are to be found Men, Camels, Sheep, &e. chang'd into Stones for above Three Hundred Years paſt: And▪ Ariſtotle reports that there is a Cave near Bergamo, where are to be ſeen the Petrify'd Bodys of ſeveral Men.

When I enumerated the Churches of Rome, I forgot to tell ye, that in the Church call'd La Bocca di Verita, there is a piece of Marble repreſenting a Head with the Mouth open; And the Good Women do ſay, that if a Woman Unfaithful to her Husband's Bed, lays her Hand upon it, the Mouth will ſhut. The Roman Women who have Jealous and Credulous Husbands, frequently juſtifie their Chaſtity by this means, wherein they run far leſs hazard then they who formerly were conſtrain'd to walk bare-foot over red hot Coals, and Ploughſhares.

This is what I purpos'd to ſay of the Famous City of Rome, wherein though I have omitted many things, yet there is ſufficient to give an Advantageous Idea of it to thoſe who have never ſeen it; and to breed in others a deſire of ſeeing it.

CHAP. XII. Of the Kingdom of Naples.

THERE is not any State in Italy of that vaſt Extent as the Kingdom of Naples. Some Italian Authors have call'd it Sicily on this ſide the Pharos, which is the reaſon that the Kings of Spain have aſſum'd the Title of Kings of both Sicilies. Generally this Kingdom is divided into Twelve Provinces; viz. La Terra di Lavore, Principato Giteriore, Principato Ʋlteriore, Calabria Ʋlteriore, La Terra d' Otranto, La Terra di Bari, La Capitanata, the County of Moliſſo, the hithermoſt Abruzzo, and the furthermoſt Abruzzo: It is reckon'd to contain 24 Archbiſhopricks, 60 Principalities, 100 Dukedoms, as many Marquiſates, 66 Earldoms, and above 1000 Baronies. Which ſhews us, that the Nobility multiplies in that Kingdom, more then any where elſe; which is the reaſon that Naples is call'd Naples the Noble. The Air is very wholſome, and the Country very fruitful in Corn, Wine, and all ſorts of Fruits, This Kingdom has not been free from Revolutions that have turmoyl'd the Repoſe of Italy upon ſeveral Occaſions. It has been in the Poſſeſſion of the Romans, Goths, Lombards, Normans, Suabians, French and Spaniards. Which latter Uſurp'd it from the French who have an undoubted claim to it, as well by the Inveſtiture given by Clement IV. both of that Kingdom, as alſo of Sicily, to Charles of France, Duke of Anjou and Provence, Brother of St. Lewis in 1265. as for that Queen Joan I. by her laſt Will and Teſtament, dated June 29, 1480. adopted Lewis of France I. of that Name: Jane II. who poſſeſſed the Throne from the Year 1414. till the Year 1434. adopted Rene of France, Sirnam'd, The Good; which acquir'd him a double Right. But Ferdinand King of Spain, contrary to the Treaty made with Lewis XII. King of France, ſent a Puiſſant Army into Italy, under the leading of the Famous Gonſalvo, who drove the French out of Naples and Sicily; ſince which time the Spaniards have been in poſſeſſion of 'em, and keep a Viceroy there, who is chang'd every three Years. The Kingdom of Naples holds of the Holy See; and the King of Spain pays every year to the Pope upon St. Peter's Day a Tribute of a White Nag, and a Purſe of 7000 Ducats. But the Neapolitans do not willingly brook the Spaniſh Yoak: And therefore they have endeavour'd to caſt it off ſeveral Times: But their laſt Inſurrection was in the years 1646. and 1647. tho they fail'd in the ſucceſs, becauſe the Deſign was ill laid, and 'for that the Male-Contents had no body to head em but a ſorry Fiſherman, vulgarly known by the Name of Maſaniello, who for above 15 Days Commanded above 200000 Men, who paid him a blind Obedience.

This Kidgdom that ſtretches it ſelf forth in Form of a Peninſula, is bounded to the Eaſt by the Ionian Sea; to the North by the Gulph of Venice, by the Tuſcan Sea to the South; and by the Eccleſiaſtical Territories to the Weſt. It is about 500 Miles Broad, and 1500 in Circuit.

The City of Naples, the Metropolitan of this flouriſhing Kingdom, is ſeated upon the Sea-Shore; formerly call'd Parthenopea, and is defended by three Citadels provided with all things neceſſary to keep the Neapolitans under the Spaniſh Yoke; of which one is call'd the Norman Caſtle, as being founded by William III. Duke of Normandy and King of Naples: The Second call'd the New Caſtle, was built by Charles I. Brothrr to St. Lewis; but Ferdinand King of Arragon, who underſtood the importance of it, caus'd it to be fortify'd after an extraordinary manner; and it has always a Garriſon in it of 500 Natural Spaniards. The Caſtle of St. Elmo which cemmands one part of the City, was built by Robert I. the Son of Charles II. and the Emperor Charles V. after he had caus'd it to be well fortify'd, call'd it the Bridle of Naples. Beſides theſe Caſtles there are alſo ſome Towres and other Buildings, which are call'd by the Name of Fortreſſes, as the Capuan Caſtle, which however are of no other uſe then for the Councils of Juſtice and the Civil Government to Aſſemble in.

The Viceroy's Palace is very ſpacious, richly Furniſh'd, and incloſes ſeveral Curioſities, among others, a Plant about Two Fingers in breadth, and about a Foot and a halfe long, upon which the Ancients wrote before the uſe of Paper was invented. A Stone, which being ſcrap'd, yields a kind of Cotton, of which the Pagans made a certain ſort of Cloth to wrap the Dead Bodies, which they burnt, by reaſon that this Cloth being incombuſtible, preſerv'd the Aſhes of the Corps entire, This ſort of Cloth is in uſe among ſome People in India; the nature of it being ſuch, thar when 'tis Foul, 'tis but throwing it into the Fire, and it becomes as white as Snow.

The Port of Naples would be one of the beſt Ports in Italy▪ were it but ſhelter'd from the South-Eaſt Wind. The City is very neatly Built; The Streets are Broad, Long, and as Streight as a Line, and ſo order'd▪ that there runs a Canal through every Street, as in the Cities of Holland, which receive the Filth and Naſtineſs through Iron Grates, ſo that the Streets are always clean. It may be about Six Miles in compaſs, comprehending the Seven Suburbs; and it has been all along the Reſidence of Illuſtrious Men, by reaſon of the mild and temperate Air which it enjoys; in the number of which we may reckon Virgil, Livie, Horace, Seneca, &c.

The Cathedral Church is Dedicated to St. Januarius formerly Biſhop of Beneventum, who is the Fourteenth Patron that the Neapolitans have made choice of: and they keep the Blood of this Saint as a Sacred Relique, which is congeal'd in Veſſels: but if they lay it to the Saints Head, ſuch is the Story which they tell, it preſently turns Liquid, and rowls up into little Bubbles.

As for the Neapolitan Money, they reckon all by Carolino's; every Carolino being worth about Ten Sols of France: the Spaniſh Piſtol goes for Three and thirty Carolino's; a Sequin for Twenty Carolino's; a Piaſter weighs Nine Carolino's; beſides which, they have ſome ſmall Copper-Money, that goes in the Markets.

After that Strangers have ſeen the Curioſities of Naples, rhey viſit the Wonders in the parts adjoyning: for an infinite number of ſurprizing Things that are to be met with in the Kingdom of Naples, may well be call'd by that Name.

The Mountain Veſuvius may well deſerve to be plac'd in the Firſt rank of theſe Wonders, as being ſo frequently all in a Flame. Not to mention that Inundation of Fire which hap'ned in Titus's Reign, wherein Plinie was a little too far engag'd, out of Curioſity; nor of ſeveral others; I ſhall only ſay, that this Mountain, which is above Seven Leagues from Naples, continually vomits forth Fire, ſometimes more, ſometimes leſs violently; which has many times laid waſt the Country, and very much annoy'd the City of Naples. There was formerly upon this Hill, the Lovelieſt Vineyards in the Country, and a very beautiful Village, containing above 2500 Inhabitants; but in the year 1631. this Infernal Chimney, as Tertullian calls it, vomited forth ſuch a Deluge of Flames, accompanied with a Torrent of Sulphur, and a Shower of Stones, that all the poor People were either burnt of ſtifl'd, and their Town was buried in the Cinders, that lay more then Ten Foot thick above the Steeple of the Church. Stones are alſo there to be ſeen, of a prodigious igneſs, and there are People ſtill living, that beheld a Torrent of Sulphur, Alome and Salt-Peter fall from the Top of the Mountain. Some time before this diſmal Ravage, the Smoak, that iſſu'd continually forth, increas'd, and was intermix'd with Flames and Aſhes; ſoon after, it was accompany'd with a noiſe ſo dreadful, that you would have thought that nature was about to have been ſwallow'd up: this noiſe was attended with an Earthquake that ſwell'd up the Sea; and at length the Mountain burſting, pieces of Rock, all of a light Fire, flew out, and the Sulphur that ran down, floated upon the Sea no leſs then Three Miles from the Shore; and 'tis thought that if the Wind had not prov'd favourable to the City of Naples, it had been buried in the Cinders that flew from the Mountain. This terrible accident is engrav'd upon a Marble Stone, that ſtands in the High way which leads from Naples to Veſuvius, Several People out of Curioſity, have gone up to the top of the Mountain, by a way cut out of the Aſhes for above Two Miles together, and found at the top of the Mountain, a wide Abyſs, about Two Miles in circumference, and as many deep; wherein there appear'd another, no leſs wide then the Firſt, from whence iſſu'd out a thick Smoak that ſmelt of Sulphur.

The Mountain Pauſilipus is remarkable for the Subterraneal way cut through the Mountain for above a Mile together, thô it be all of Free Stone; This Cavern is call'd The Grotto of Naples, and was made to ſhorten the Paſſage from Naples to Puzzuolo. For in regard that Mountain ſtretches out into the Sea, like a Promontory there is no paſſage left upon the Shore: So that before that Way was made, the Aſcent and Deſcent of the Mountain was very painful and laborious. There are ſome who averr it to be the Work of Lucullus; others aſcribe it to Cocceius Nerva: But however it were, the way is about a Mile in length, and between Twelve and Thirteen Foot high, and ſo broad that Two Coaches may goe a Breaſt, There is no Light comes into it but by the two Entrances, and by two ſmall Overtures, which Alphonſo VII. King of Naples caus'd to be boar'd through the top of the Grotto, much about the middle of it, where there is a Lamp continually burning before the Image of the Virgin; but notwithſtanding the Darkneſs of the Place, you are never peſter'd, by reaſon that they who come from Naples, always keep the Right hand, and they who Travel thither take the Left.

Virgil's Tomb ſtands in the Garden of Severino, ſhaded with Laurels, almoſt at the entrance into the Grotto.

After this you muſt ſee the Lake Avernus, which Virgil calls The Lake of Hell, becauſe the Birds that fly over it, are poiſon'd with the ſtench that exhales from the Water. It may be above Two thouſand Paces long, and half as broad. The Ancients faign'd that Charon ply'd there with his Boat, in regard the River Acheron forms this Lake, upon the Banks of which are to be ſeen the Ruines of the Temple of Apollo.

Nor is the Lake d'Agnano far from it, environn'd with Mountains, and thought to be bottomleſs in the middle. Thô the Water be full of Serpents, yet has it the good Quality to Cure ſuch Beaſts, as entring into ſuch a venemous Grotto adjoyning, call'd The Dogs Grotto, are dragg'd, halfe ſtifl'd with the Sulphurie Steam, that in an hours time would kill 'em quite.

The Lake Lucrinus, the moſt abounding in Fiſh of any in the Kingdom, formerly intermix'd with Avernus, by means of a Canal: But in 1538. or as others ſay, upon Michaelmas Night in 1636. an Earthquake, not only fill'd up the Canal, but ſett a Mountain above Four Miles in compaſs, between the Two Lakes.

The Alome Mountain yields a great Revenue to the King of Spain. The Ancients made an Infernal Manſion of it, and plac'd Vulcan's Work-houſe there; becauſe they ſaw nothing but Flames all Night upon it, and Smoak all Day; and for that the Sulphurie Vapour infected the Air for above a League round; The Trench, from which this Smoak ariſes, being a Thouſand Foot wide, and Fifteen hundred in length. All the Land about Puzzuolo is nothing but Sulphurie Earth, ſo that you ſhall ſee the Smoak riſe under your Feet through the Clefts in the High way, occaſion'd by the Drowth of the Weather.

Not far from the Mountain of Brimſtone, lies the Ʋſurers Lake, becauſe it never reſtores any thing that is plung'd into the Water, which is very black, thick, and bolls all day long. If you throw Meat into it, it comes out halfe boil'd, and the one halfe of it conſum'd: And if you put into it Three Eggs in a cloſe Basket, 'tis ſaid, that be as cautious as you can, you ſhall pull out but Two, the Lake taking the Third as due for Tribute.

Near Puzzuolo, is a Subterraneal Labyrinth, into which you muſt not enter without lighted Torches, and a Skein of Thread, which you muſt be very careful to preſerve from breaking, unleſs you will run the hazard of loſing your way. This Labyrinth is compos'd of an infinite number of Rooms, one within another: And there are likewiſe to be ſeen in the ſame place, ſome Ruins of the Temples of Diana and Neptune: Nero's Stoves, that yield a very great Heat; Four Chambers furniſh'd with Stone Beds, and Boulſters of the ſame Materials, would entice a Man to take his Reſt there, were they not a little of the hardeſt: Cicero's Baths are in a large Room, where the Letters are ſcrap'd out that were written upon the Roof, becauſe that Sick People were ſo vain as to believe they ſhould be Cur'd ſo ſoon as they had read 'em. Others affirm, that thoſe Inſcriptions were only the Names of ſuch ſick People as thoſe Baths had Cur'd, but that the Phyſitians caus'd 'em to be raz'd out, under pretence that they were Magical Characters.

The Baths of Tirtola lie not far diſtant; being a very long Grotto, into which you are no ſooner enter'd but you begin to ſweat; but when you are at the end of the Grotto, you feel leſs heat: And if you feel it too hot, you need no more then ſtoop to the Ground, and there comes up a coolneſs very refreſhing. 'Tis ſaid that at the farther end of this Grotto there are Baths that are qualify'd with excellent Vertues; but that they are but very little frequented, by reaſon the Acceſs to 'em is ſo frightful.

About a 100 Paces from the Lake Lucrinus, you meet with other Baths, ſome cold, others hot. Theſe are Caverns in the Rock, wherein they have cut out certain Receptacles to Bath in. When you enter into the cold Baths, there are ſeveral Chambers hew'd out of the Rock, where there are a great number of thoſe Receptacles, ſome full, others empty. 'Tis ſaid that every Receptacle had a peculiar vertue to cure ſeveral Diſtempers; and they know 'em by the Statues erected near the Receptacles, laying a hand upon the part affected.

When you leave theſe Baths, you aſcend ſome Steps that are cut out of the Rock which lead to the hot Baths; and when you have gone forward about 20 or 30 Paces, there is a deep place full of Water almoſt boyling hot; on the ſide of which there is a Grotto.; but the Deſcent into it is ſo hot, that it fetches out the Sweat by very great drops, becauſe the Vapours and Exhalations are ſo violent.

Near to Cumae, which is lookt upon to be the Mother of Naples, is to be ſeen the Grotto of the Cumaean Sybil, which though a Pagan, foretold the Birth of Chriſt, and the Myſteries of the Incarnation. You enter into it through a long and wide Walk cut out of the Rock, which formerly led to the City of Cumae. After you have gone 450 Paces, upon the right hand you meet with a very low Door, which leads into a Chamber 14 Foot long, and 8 wide, the Roof of which is painted with Gold and Azure, and the Walls inlay'd with Coral, and Mother of Pearl. On the left hand of that Chamber, is another Door which leads into a Walk cut out of the Rock alſo, 4 Foot high, and 40 long. At the end of it is a Chamber that leads into two other Chambers, in the one of which is a kind of a ſmall Lake: Now in regard the Room is very hot, and for that you cannot tarry long in it without Sweating, 'tis conjectur'd that it was the Sybil's Bath. And becauſe that all theſe Apartments are under ground, and for that no Light comes into 'em, you muſt take care to be well furniſh'd with Flambeaus, or Wax-Candles, and to be no leſs cautious that they do not go out. Now becauſe all the Rocks in this part of the Kingdom of Naples are full of theſe Grotto's, 'tis thought that the Ancient Inhabitants liv'd under ground.

After you have taken a view of all the Rarities about Puzzuolo, you take Boat and ſlip over to Baiae, which lies not above 4 Miles diſtant, and where there are alſo ſeveral Remarkable Curioſities. More eſpecially ſome Ruins of Caligula's famous Bridge, who to fulfil the Propheſie of an Aſtrologer, that in the time of Tiberius foretold that Caligula ſhould be Emperor when he ſhould ride on Horſeback over the Golph between Puzzuolo and Baiae, joyn'd to the Bridge which the Romans had then already begun, two rows of Ships ſtay'd by huge Anchors, over which he laid a great number of Planks, and ſo rode over both on Horſeback, and in his Chariot. There are ſome who believe that Caligula did not only deſign the fulfilling of that Propheſie, but that he was at that vaſt expence, to imitate Xerxes, and to terriſie the People of Europe that were unſubdu'd at that time. The Sand all along that Coaſt has two peculiar Qualities; that although the Water be cold, the Sand at the bottom of the Sea is ſo hot that you can ſcarce endure to touch it, and when it comes out of the Water, it becomes as hard as Marble.

It was at Baiae where Agrippina was ſtabb'd by the Command of Nero her Son, who was ſo cruel as to rip open her Body, that he might inſpect the place where he had lain Nine Months. This Misfortune was foretold that Princeſs long before. For having conſulted the Oracle concerning the Deſtiny of the Fruit which ſhe bare in her Womb; anſwer was return'd her, Thou ſhalt bring forth a Son who ſhall be Emperor, but he ſhall put Thee to Death. To which ſhe reply'd. Let him put me to Death, provided that he Reign. Her Tomb is in a Grotto, where there is a Cave cut out of the Rock, adorn'd with ſome Sculptures which repreſent the Empreſs ſurrounded with ſome Birds of Prey.

There is alſo a certain Subterraneal Structure to be ſeen at Baiae, which is call'd Piſcina Mirabile, or, The Wonderful Fiſh-Pond. It is ſupported with about 45 or 50 Pillars, and lin'd with Ciment; which makes People believe that it is a Ciſtern wherein the Ancients preſerv'd Rain-water for their Drink, in regard that all the Water thereabout taſtes ſtrong of the Minerals.

There is another Subterraneal Structure, call'd the hundred Little Chambers, all built of Brick, wherein they formerly put their Slaves belonging to the Galleys that always Winter'd at Baiae. There are an infinite number of Curioſities more in the parts about Puzzuolo and Baiae: and without queſtion, there is no part of Europe where there are to be ſeen the Ruines of ſo many Pagan Temples, Tombs, Amphitheaters, Aqueducts, Grotto's, Palaces, &c. So that in regard it would take up above ſix Months for a Traveller to take up an exact view of all thoſe Rarities, it would require a Volume in Folio to make a faithful Enumeration and Deſcription of 'em.

But though I am leaving the Parts adjoyning to Puzzuolo, yet I am not quitting the Kingdom of Naples, before I have made ſome other Remarks worthy the Reader's Curioſity.

In the Province of Tarentum, there are a ſort of Lizards, by which if a Man be bitten, he cannot be cur'd but by Dancing, and the ſound of Inſtruments. They add further, that theſe Animals never bite any but the People of the Country, and that it was a Puniſhment which befel 'em, becauſe that being Dancing one Day, they would not quit their Jollity but for ſo long time till the Hoſt paſt by 'em.

The Territory of Otranto is a kind of Peninſula, environ'd with the Adriatick and Ionick Seas, and much infeſted with Locuſts, that are purſu'd and hunted after by a ſort of Birds not to be ſeen in other Parts. The City of Otranto, the Metropolis of the Province is conſiderable for being an Archbiſhoprick, and for the Haven from whence they generally take Shipping for Greece. In former time Pyrrhus had a deſign to have joyn'd Greece to Italy with a Bridge of Ships, in that part where Otranto ſtands, though the two Coaſts are above 60 Miles, or 25 French Leagues aſunder. Otranto had the Misfortune to be plunder'd by the Turks in 1481. but it was nothing near ſo ſtrong then, as it is now.

Brindiſi, or Brunduſium: another Archbiſhopprick and Haven, famous for the Paſſage of Julius Caeſar into Greece, in purſuit of Pompey, whom he Beſieg'd, and forc'd to retire into Epirus.

The Extrrordinary Devotion that oblig'd ſeveral Emperors and Kings to viſit Mount St. Angelo, eſpecially the Emperor Otho, who Travell'd Bare-foot to Rome with all his Court, engages me to ſay ſomething of it. 'Tis reported that St, Michael having had a Viſion in thoſe parts. made choice of it for the Place of his Abode, and digg'd a Grotto in the Rock. A Marble Portal leads into this Subterraneal Cavern, and you go down a deſcent of 55 Marble Steps into it. There is to be ſeen the little Altar conſecrated by St. Michael himſelf, together with ſeveral other Chappels under Ground: Beſides, there is a Fountain of Water of Sovereign Vertue for the Cure of ſeveral Diſtempers. The Devotion paid to this Place, and the Reſort of People to it, has occaſion'd the building of a City and ſeveral Churches.

Roſſano is another Archiepiſcopal City of Calabria, for nothing conſiderable but for the Church of St. Maries. into which the Women are not admitted to enter: For which the People of the Country give this Reaſon. The Holy Virgin, ſay they, having ſhew'd St. Bartholomew the Place where he ſhould build that Church, ſhe ſtill appear'd to him at a diſtance from the Encloſure of the Walls, while the Church was building, and commanded that Saint not to let any Woman enter into it but to order 'em to ſtand without and hear Maſs. They further add, that ſome Women happening to go in, either out of Curioſity, or Devotion, there aroſe ſuch a violent Storm of Rain, Hail and Thunder, that never ceas'd till the Women were gone out, and had given Teſtimonies of their Repentance for their Raſhneſs; and they pretend that their Anceſtors have ſeen ſeveral Tryals in Confirmation of the Truth of this Story.

Salerno, the Metropolis of the hithermoſt Principato, derives its Name from the little Rivers of Salo and Erno, that water the Territory belonging to it. When Naples was Govern'd by particular Kings of their own, their eldeſt Sons bore the Title of Princes of Salerno. In the Convent of Jacobins, there is a Bell that ſometimes Towls alone of it ſelf; and they pretend that ſuch a ſpontaneous Towling, preſages the approaching death of ſome Fryer in the Convent.

Amalfi in the ſame Province is famous for the invention of the Needle and Compaſs, and for being the Firſt place that contributed to the Order of the Knights of St. John of Jeruſalem.

Capoua. An Archiepiſcopal City in the Terra di Lavoro, was formerly accounted the third City in the World; Rome and Carthage being the other two. It is now ſeated about two Miles diſtant from the place, where ancient Capua ſtood: nor is conſiderable for any thing but the Name of it, and ſome deplorable Ruins of her Ancient Theaters, Aqueducts, Portico's, Temples and Subterraneal Vaults. It was formerly call'd the Manſion of Pride and Pleaſure, as well by reaſon of the Magnificence of it; as for that Hannibal in one Winter Quarter of a year, was ſo ſoften'd and effeminated with the Pleaſures and Delights of that City, that he was no longer able to withſtand the Romans, whom he had ſo often defeated before.

Gaeta is another City in the ſame Province, built by Aeneas's Nurſe in honor of his Nurſe Caieta The Caſtle belonging to it, is conſiderable for the ſtrength of it, and is well provided of all things neceſſary for the defence of it. The Statue of Charles of Bourbon, Conſtable of France, is alſo there to be ſeen, who being in the Service of Charles V. was ſlain at the Siege of Rome, and lies buried at Caieta. Upon his Tomb are written the four following Verſes in Spaniſh.

Francia me clio la leche, Eſpagna ſuerte y ventura. Roma me clio la muerte Y Caieta la Sepultura. My Infant Milk I Suckt in France, Spain did my Lot and Fame advance; Death ſnatcht me from the Walls of Rome, And now Caieta has my Tomb.

The Dolphins that appear upon this Coaſt are very large, which gives an occaſion to conclude this Chapter with a report of an accident that befell a Seaman of Caieta. That a Sea-man having caught one of theſe Fiſh, preſerv'd it alive in a ſmall Pond, and tam'd him to that degree, that he would often get upon his Back, and managing him with his Voice only, accuſtom'd the willing fiſh, proud of his burden, to carry him for his Pleaſure to and fro upon the wide Sea. Some time after it happen'd, that the Sea-man embarking for Spain, the Fiſh made his eſcape to follow the Veſſel in which he heard his Maſters Voice: and it ſo fell out, that the Ship being caſt away, the faithful Fiſh diſtinguiſh'd his Maſter from among all the reſt that cry'd out for Help, and having taken him upon his Back, return'd with him to the Port from whence he ſet out.

CHAP. XIII. Oſ the Iſlands and Kingdoms of Sicily and Sardigna.

SOme Authors have written, that Sicily which is the biggeſt Iſland in the Mediterranean, with the Title of a Kingdom, was formerly joyn'd to Italy, and that a ſtorm of Wind occaſion'd the ſeparation; others aſſert, that it was divided from it by an Earthquake. It was firſt inhabited by Giants, by Liſtrigons and Cyclops; it was likewiſe call'd The Iſland of the Sun, and Trinacrea, by reaſon of the Three Promontories of Faro, Paſſaro and Boco, which are ſo plac'd. that the whole Iſland reſembles a Greek Delta. It is ſeated between 36 and 40 Degree of Longitude, and the Latiude extends from the 35 to 88 Degree. The circuit of the Sea-coaſt takes up a Hundred Fourſcore and Ten Leagues; where it is longeſt; Sixty Leagues in length, and Fifty, where it is broadeſt. 'Tis but Seven Miles from Cape Faro to Seiglio in the Kingdom, of Naples. Some will have this Iſland to hang in the Seas, being ſupported only by Three Pillars that are under the Three Promontories, and to juſtifie their Opinion, aſſert, That the River Salſo, that riſes out of a Hole in the middle of the Iſland, comes from the Sea, by reaſon the Water is Salt.

The Air is very wholeſome, thô ſomewhat of the hotteſt for Strangers. The Soil is ſo fertile in Corn, Wine, and all ſorts of Fruits, that Sicily was call'd the Granary of Italy. The Honey, Oil, Wax, Sugar, Saffron, &c. which are all the Products of that Iſland, draw a great Trade to it. Beſides, there are found in this Iſland, great ſtore of Agates, Emraulds, Jaſper, Porphyrie, Salt, and ſeveral Mineral Mines: and all the Sea-coaſts abound in Fiſh.

When the Roman Empire fell to decay, Sicily was plunder'd and Uſurp'd by the Vandals. After that the Saracins ſettl'd in it, till they were expell'd by the Normans in 1070. Charles of France, Duke of Anjou, Count of Provence, and Brother of St. Lewis. was inveſted in the Kingdoms of Naples and Sicily, and the French remain'd Maſters of it till the year 1282, or as others ſay, 1283. at what time, upon an Eaſter day, at the Hour of Veſpers, the Sicilians, ſollicited by the Arragonians, Maſſacred all the French in the Churches, little dreaming of ſuch a fatal ſurprize: and this was the Maſſacre which ſtill carries the Name of the Sicilian Veſpers. Since that, the Spaniards ſetl'd themſelves there. and are ſtill in poſſeſſion of it, ſending a Viceroy thither to Govern it.

Spaniſh Piſtoles, Piaſters and Reals, as alſo Sequins of Venice goe currant in Sicilie, provided the Pieces be weight; for they Coin no other Money but Tarins. A Spaniſh Piſtole is worth Forty Tarins; and the Venetian Sequin, Twenty four: Every Tarin is worth about Five Sols of France. When they make any Payment, they reckon all by Ounces; and by an Ounce they mean 30 Tarins, which make Seven Livres, Ten Sols of France.

One of the Cuſtoms obſerv'd in Sicily, and which appears very ridiculous in France, is, that neither Women nor Men, if they have no Beards upon their Chins, can Lodge in the Inns, unleſs they be particularly acquainted with ſome Perſon of Worth in the place, or without very ſufficient and Authentick Certificates. There are alſo Guards appointed to viſit the Inns in the Night time, and to look into the Beds, and ſee whether there be any Chins without Beards. They likewiſe ſeize upon all that are abroad in the Streets Two Hours after Night is ſhut in, and they who are ſo apprehended, are Fin'd, if the cauſe of their being late out be not ſufficient to excuſe 'em. This Iſland is infeſted with ſo many Robbers, that 'tis a difficult thing for a Man to ſtir halfe a League out of the City, without loſing his Cloak-bag, if he ſcape with his Throat. So that the People never Travel by Land but in Caravans, or without good Convoys, and you muſt take a great care too, leſt the Convoys allow'd ye be not Thieves themſelves. There is nothing expos'd to Sale in Sicily, either in the Shops or in the Markets, till the Commiſſaries of the Civil Government have ſet the price: and it would be an unpardonable Crime for any Merchant or Countryman to ſell his Wares or Proviſion dearer then the ſett Rate.

The Sicilians for the moſt part, and they that inhabit the Coaſts of Calabria, wear a Bonnet of Goats-Skin undreſt, their Hair being matted or plaited flat behind; A Doublet with great Skirts, neither Band nor Cravatt, their Breeches very ſtrait, a Cloak of the ſame Stuff which the Chimney-Sweepers in Savoy wear, which they fling under their Left Arm, with a Sword and Piſtol by their ſides. Their Shooes are made of the Rind of Bacon well Curry'd, which laſts a long time: But the Poor have no more then a bare Sole made of the Bark of a Tree, ty'd about their Feet with Packthread: And as for People of Quality, they wear Pumps after the Spaniſh faſhion.

Palermo is the Metropolis of the Kingdom, an Archiepiſcopal See, and the Reſidence of the Viceroy, whoſe Train is more ſplendid then the King of Spain's. The Air is temperate, the Haven, the Fountains, and the Magnificence of the Buildings, contribute not a little to render Palermo a pleaſant Habitation; and therefore the Chiefeſt of the Nobility reſide there. In the Great Piazza that faces the Palace, ſtands the Statue of Philip IV. upon a Pedeſtal, upon which are repreſented the Victories of that Monarch, ſupported by Four Figures repreſenting the Four Virtues, the whole of White Marble. In another Piazza ſtands a Braſs Statue of Charles V. upon a Pedeſtal of Marble. In the meeting of the new Street and Caſſaron ſtreet, which are two of the faireſt Streets in Palermo, is to be ſeen the Palace, a noble Fountain; and Four Statues of the King's of Spain, Charles V. Philip II. III. IV. which are the moſt beautiful Ornaments of the City.

In the Piazza right againſt the Palace of Juſtice ſtands a Fountain, which deſervedly is lookt upon to be the moſt beautiful in Europe. It conſiſts of ſeveral hollow Receptacles, one above another, ſeparated by Galeries, whither you aſcend to admire the variety of large Animals that ſpout forth Water after different manners. The whole is of Marble, with a great number of Figures of the ſame Stone.

After that you have ſeen all that is curious in Palermo, Travellers go to viſit Mount Peregrin, at the top of which, after an aſcent of Three Miles, you meet with a Cave, almoſt like that of St. Beaume in Provence, which was the retirement of Sta Raſalia, and 'tis reported that the Fountain within that Grotto has a peculiar Quality to Heal ſeveral Diſtempers.

Thô the City of Mont Real be not above Four Miles diſtant from Palermo, however it is an Archiepiſcopal See. From thence there is a Proſpect of Nine Iſlands, call'd by the Name of Lipari, which is the name of the moſt conſiderable among 'em. Of which two, Vulcano and Stromboli, are not inhabited, becauſe of their continual vomiting forth Flames and Smoak; for which reaſon they are call'd the Burning Iſlands of Sicily.

However, theſe Iſlands are not to be taken confuſedly for Mount Aetna, commonly call'd Mount Gibello, the higheſt Mountain in Sicily; which thô almoſt cover'd with Snow, yet continually vomits forth flames of Fire, like a Glaſs-houſe Furnace; and ſpreads the Aſhes of the conſum'd Materials with that impetuoſity, that the Country is frequently much endamaged thereby: thô if the ſame Aſhes are but moderately ſcatter'd over the Ground, they enfertilize the Earth. The City of Catanea, lying under this Mountain, has ſuffer'd many Conflagrations, occaſion'd by the ſparkles of this Infernal Gulph. Several Perſons that have been ſo curious as to climb to the Top of Mount Gibello, have been either loſt in the Snow, or buried in the Aſhes, and many times the Flames enforce their way through Chawns and Rifts ne'r known before, with ſuch an amazing noiſe, as alarms all the Iſland. Not far from Mount Gibello is the place where ſome will have it, that Ceres firſt began to ſow Wheat; and they will undertake to ſhew ye the Meadows where Hercules fed his Oxen.

The Lake Naphtica is noted for this, that the ſtench of the Water is ſo noiſom, that it poiſons the adjacent Air, and very much impairs the Health of the neighbouring Inhabitants.

There is another Lake near Caſtro Giovanni, which is ſaid to have no bottom; 'Tis call'd the Lake of Proſerpina, upon a ſuſpition that it was the place where Proſerpina was Raviſh'd, and carried to the Infernal Regions by her Raviſher.

Meſſina is an Archiepiſcopal City, famous for the Haven that belongs to it, near Cape Faro, which makes it a Town of Great Trade, and much frequented by Foreigners. In the Grand Piazza ſtands a Braſs Statue of Philip IV. upon a Horſe of the ſame Metal; the whole Adorn'd with Baſe-Reliefs, repreſenting his moſt famous Actions. Over the Door of a Tower near the Metropolitan Church, ſtands a French Inſcription. Grand-merci a Meſſina, in remembrance, as they ſay, that the French began with Meſſina, when they made themſelves Maſters of the Iſland.

There are ſeveral other Whirlpools, or Abyſſes of Water in the Sea adjoyning to Meſſina, among the reſt, Charybdis, Famous among the Latin Poets. This Whirlpool is about Thirty Paces in Diameter; which compaſs of the Surface is uſually cover'd with Froth, Bulruſhes, and other foul excreſcencies of the Sea, which throw themſelves into it, and are ſwallow'd up by it. Nevertheleſs, the Mariners of Meſſina, Sail over in flat bottom'd Barks, where after ſeveral times being whirl'd and turn'd about, they row themſelves back.

The Tides of Ebb and Flood are ſo rapid in the Channel that ſeparates Sicily from Italy, that they many times force the Veſſels riding there, from their Anchors, let 'em be never ſo ſtrong; which is the loſs of many a Ship.

Saragoſſa or Syracuſe was formerly lookt upon as the largeſt and moſt Magnificent City in the Univerſe. Athens beheld her ſelf abandon'd by the Greateſt part of her Inhabitants, who betook themſelves to ſettle at Syracuſe: And the moſt ſumptuous Edifices in Rome, derive their chiefeſt Ornaments from the Spoils of her Structures. The moſt beautiful Ruin of her Antiquity remaining is the Aqueduct, cut out of a Rock, that carries the Water over the Haven, about Ten Miles in length. Without the City is to be ſeen Arethuſa's Fountain that riſes in great abundance, out of a Rock by the Sea-ſide; and they report, that this Water comes from the Holy Land, by a conveyance that runs under the Abyſſes of the Sea. But the greateſt Evidence that they alleadge for it is this, That a Pilgrim one day taking up Water, out of the River Alpheus, by chance let his Diſh fall into the River, and loſt it to his incredible Grief; for that he had hid within it Seven Piſtoles for unforeſeen occaſions. That embarking to return for Europe, he landed in Sicily, and going to the Fountain Arethuſa to Drink, he found his Diſh floating upon the Water, which he knew again, not only by the Seven Piſtoles, but by ſeveral other marks.

Dionyſius, the Tyrants Grotto, lies not far diſtant from Saragoſſa, much more conſiderable than any of thoſe about Puzzuolo, For there you may ſee a whole City cut out of a Rock, with ſubterraneal Streets, Palaces, Piazza's, and other admirable Structures. But you muſt have ſome notable Antiquarie for your guide, that knows all the Turnings and Windings, and be well provided with Matches and Torches.

There are ſeveral other Iſlands between Sicily and Barbary, as Maltha, Gozes, Limoſa, Lampadouſa, &c. but in regard they rather belong to Africa then Europe, I ſhall ſay nothing of 'em here. Nevertheleſs, I cannot forbear obſerving, that in the laſt there is a Chappel, where you ſhall meet with all ſorts of Refreſhments for Sea faring People, and all that is neceſſary for Navigation, as Biſcuit, Cordage, Anchors, Sails, Oil, Wood, Fiſh, Stuffs, &c. And all that Sail near that Iſland, and have occaſion for any of thoſe things, goe and fetch 'em from that Chappel, leaving the value in other Commodities, with which their Veſſel is beſt provided. All Nations, even the Turks themſelves, goe thither for what they want; and 'tis ſaid, that if they fail to leave a Compenſation, their Ships can ſtir no farther, let the Wind be never ſo favourable. We are aſſur'd, that ſeveral have known this to be true by many Tryals. However it be, that Chappel is hewen out of a Rock; and ſome Paces from thence, there is a Spring of excellent freſh Water, which will keep ſweet a long time at Sea.

As for Sardigna, there are not ſo many Remarks to be made upon that Iſland. All that I can ſay of it is, that 'tis an Iſland in the Mediterranean Sea, with the Title of a Kingdom, belonging to the King of Spain, who Governs it by a Viceroy. The Air is ſo thick, that formerly ſuch perſons were baniſh'd thither, as the State had a mind to be rid of; that there is a Breed of Great Dogs there, bigger then the Dogs in England; and ſuch an infinite number of Rats, that the King of Spain has enjoyn'd all the Owners of Houſes, to keep as many Cats as they have Rooms.

The Ancient Sardignians had a Law, which ordain'd, that the Sons ſhould knock out their Parents Brains, when once they came to be Superannuated, for fear the Infirmity of their Minds ſhould incline 'em to commit Faults prejudicial to their Families or the Government.

CHAP. XIV. Of the Iſland of Corſe.

THis Iſland is ſeated to the North of Sardigna from whence it is ſeparated by a Channel that may be Sail'd over in an hour, and lies between the 40 and 42 Degree of Latitude, and between the 31 and 32 of Longitude. The largeſt extent of it from South to North, is about 40 Leagues, 20 Broad, and in Circuit about Fourſcore and Ten. It is ſaid to have been ſo call'd from a Woman of Liguria, whoſe Name was Corſa Bubulca, who carried thither a Colonie out of her own Country.

The Iſland of Corſe has belong'd to the Genoeſes ever ſince the year 1559. at what time Henry II. Granted it to 'em, at the requeſt of the Spaniards, after the Battel of St. Quintin. Nevertheleſs, the People are not pleas'd with their Government; and the Genoeſes on the other ſide, who are afraid of their Revolting, or leſt ſome Foreign Power ſhould make themſelves Maſters of it, do as much as in them lies to lay it waſte; and give out, that the Air is too unwholſome for People that are not bred there; Beſides that, the Soil is ſo ungrateful, that it will hardly return the Seed that is ſown in it. However, 'tis certain that this is ſpoken, either out of Malice or Sloth; for that it brings forth Corn, Wine, and all ſorts of Fruits, more then ſufficient the Inhabitants; that it produces good Horſes, and Timber for Shipping; and that there are in it ſeveral Mines of Copper, Lead, &c. Baths and Mineral Fountains; among which, that of Povera in the Province of Ampugnano, cures the Dropſie; Beſides that, they fiſh for Coral upon the Coaſts.

Moreover, this Iſland might be made a place of great Trade; for that there is no want of good and convenient Havens; of which, the chiefeſt are San Fiorenzo, Ajacho, and Porto Vecchio, big enough to contain whole Fleets. The Firſt was formerly Fortifi'd by the French; but the Genoeſes have demoliſh'd the beſt Works, having left nothing but the Foundations, which are of Free-ſtone.

The Corſes are good Soldiers, very ſtrong, but very ſlothful, and no leſs revengeful; ſo that upon their Death-beds they recommend the revenge of Injuries done 'em to their Kindred. Thô there be Five Biſhopricks in the Iſland, yet there is but one conſiderable City, which is Baſtia, the Metropolis of the Country and Reſidence of the Governor. There are but Five hundred Men in the Pay of the Republick for ſecurity of the whole Iſland; ſo that it might be an eaſie thing to ſurprize it, eſpecially for thoſe that are ſtronger at Sea then the Genoeſes are.

The END.