John Taylors vvandering, to see the vvonders of the vvest. How he travelled neere 600. miles, from London to the Mount in Cornwall, and beyond the Mount, to the Lands end, and home againe. Dedicated to all his loving friends, and free minded benefactors. In these dangerous dayes for rich men, and miserable times for the poore servants of the late King, (whereof I was one, 45. yeers to his royall father and himself) I thought it needful to take some course to make use of some friends, and devise a painfull way for my subsistence; which was the journey I have past, and this booke heere present; for which purpose I gave out many of these following bills, to which neere 3000. gentlemen and others, have kindly subscribed, to give me a reasonable reward.

John Taylors vvandering, to see the vvonders of the vvest. How he travelled neere 600. miles, from London to the Mount in Cornwall, and beyond the Mount, to the Lands end, and home againe. Dedicated to all his loving friends, and free minded benefactors. In these dangerous dayes for rich men, and miserable times for the poore servants of the late King, (whereof I was one, 45. yeers to his royall father and himself) I thought it needful to take some course to make use of some friends, and devise a painfull way for my subsistence; which was the journey I have past, and this booke heere present; for which purpose I gave out many of these following bills, to which neere 3000. gentlemen and others, have kindly subscribed, to give me a reasonable reward.

John Taylors vvandering, to see the vvonders of the vvest. How he travelled neere 600. miles, from London to the Mount in Cornwall, and beyond the Mount, to the Lands end, and home againe. Dedicated to all his loving friends, and free minded benefactors. In these dangerous dayes for rich men, and miserable times for the poore servants of the late King, (whereof I was one, 45. yeers to his royall father and himself) I thought it needful to take some course to make use of some friends, and devise a painfull way for my subsistence; which was the journey I have past, and this booke heere present; for which purpose I gave out many of these following bills, to which neere 3000. gentlemen and others, have kindly subscribed, to give me a reasonable reward.

Table of contents

Title page

TAYLORS Westerne Voyage to the Mount.

TAYLORS Westerne Voyage to the Mount.

[Page]

TIs a mad world (my masters) and in sadnes

I travail'd madly in these dayes of madnes:

Eight yeares a frenzy did this Land molest,

The ninth year seem'd to be much like the rest,

My selfe (with age, griefe, wrongs, and wants opprest,

With troubles more then patience could digest)

Amongst those Isles, I chose the least and best,

Which was to take this journey to the West:

And sure it is an Argument most fit,

That he who hath a portion of small wit

As I have, and good store of friends, 'twere sloth

And foolery, not to make use of both.

My wit was worne thread bare, halfe naked, poore.

And I, with it, went wool-gath'ring for more.

This long walke (first and last) I undertooke

On purpose to get money by my Booke:

My friends (I know) will pay me for my paine.

And I will never trouble them againe.

Six hundred miles, I (very neere) have footed,

And all that time was neither sho'd or booted;

[Page] But in light buskins I perform'd this traveli

O're hill and dale, through dust dirt, flint, and gravell.

And now no more words I in vaine will scatter,

But come unto the marrow of the matter.

My Reader must not her suppose that I

Will write a treatise of Geography:

Or that I meane to make ex [...]ct Relations

Of Cities, Townes, or Countries scituations;

Such men as those I turne them o're to reade

The learned Cambden, or the painefull Speed.

And now (good Reader) I my muse do tune,

I London left, the twenty one of June:

To Brainford, Colebrooke, Maidenhead and Henly,

I past (the weather faire, the high wayes cleanely)

To Abington. where foure dayes I remain'd,

By friends and kinsfolkes kindely entertain'd:

Thankes to my Nephew John, with all the rest,

To whom that time I was a costly Guest.

AND now me thinkes a little Profe may be relished amongst friends; I left Abington on Wednesday the 27. of June, and (for the case of my purse) I gave 2s. 6d. for the hire of the Skelliton or Anatomy of a Beast to carry me ten miles to Farington; the thing I was mounted on was neither Horse, Mine, or Gelding, it was all spirit, with very little (or no flesh.) It was none of your pursy foggy Jades, and amongst Horsemen it might have past for a Light Horse, too much worke, and too little meate, made him as gaunt as a Greyhound: Thus (mounted like Don Quixot) I entred Farington, but worse Guests then I had been [Page] there since these troubles; for the Kings Party burnt one part of the Towne, and the Parliaments fired the rest, so that between them there was a good hansome Market Towne turned into Ashes and Rubbidge: It begins to bud and spring out againe, for heere and there a pritty house peepes up: so that it will in short time be rebuilt, and Phaenix like (out of it's owne cinders) be revived and reneued to a more pleasing and beautifull prospect.

From Farington I footed it foure miles to Hiworth, (a Market Towne) and from thence to Purton seaven miles more, where I lodged, there was nothing remarkable in all that dayes travels; but that in the morning a Church at a Village called Kingston, (five miles from Abington having no steeple; but the Church at Purton (where I lay all night) had two steeples: but I was certified that the Minister that had two steeples, had but one Benefice, and he that had none, had two, by which meanes the reckoning was even betwixt them, for what the one had, the other had not.

The 28. of Iune, I betook me to my feete an house and halfe before the Sunne could shew his face in Somersetshire, and for one shilling I hired an old drunkard to guide me eight long miles to the Towne of Malmsbury, where all worthy remembrance was, that I found an Ancient Towne, an old Castle, and new Ale; from thence I hired a Horse for 25. seaven miles, and footed it seaven miles more that day to the famous, renowned, ancient, little pritty City of Bathe, I lodged in the Mayors house: But his Worship was as ignorant as my selfe, for he being a Baker, had let [Page] halfe his house to a Victualler: so he sold bread without, and I bought drinke within: The next day I had notice where I was, wherefore I went to his stall or shop window, and told him what I was, and that I was he who came nine yeares agoe from London, to that City with a small Scullers Boate; Mr. Mayor was pleased to entertaine me most kindely (with both his hands in his pocket) and like a man of few words, forbore to say wellcome to Towne; so wee parting dryly I left him in his shop, Lord Baron of the Browne Loaves, and Master of the Rolls (in that place:) but there is no doubt but the man may live a faire age, and dye in his bed, if be escape the unfortunate destiny of Pharoahs Baker.

Friday 29. of Iune, I had the luck twice to have not one dry thread about me, (being wet to the very skin) and yet my cloathes were as dry as a bone: the reason is, that I was in the Bathe, and my cloathes out.

Iune 30. I travelled fifteene miles to the Towne of Wells, where I stayd but little, and found as little matter of observation, but that these holy, prophane days, and blessed execrable Times of troublesome tranquility, have spoyled and defaced one of the goodliest and magnificent Cathedrall Churches in the Christian world: But such pious workes as polution and abusing of Churches, wee neede not goe amongst Turkes for proofes; for though Peters at Westminster hath scaped reasonable cleanely, yet Pauls in London hath layen out of order, in ord [...]e a battenning.

The same day I went foure miles further to the ancient Towne of Glastonbury, there I saw the Ruines of an Abby, which was one of the statelyest and [Page] most sumptuous structures in England or Europe: there [...]aines yet the ruined walls of a Chappell built in memory of Joseph of Arimathea (who as it is recorded by Authentique Historians) did first convert this Land from Paganisme to Christianity: And wee have great neede of another good Ioseph to come amongst us, to doe as much for us now. But there is no memoriall of any place where that good old man was buried: the Abby was walled more then a mile about, with a wall of free-stone, as faire as London wall; it is very probable that King Arthur (our English Worthy) was there sepulchred: for there I saw some stones of Marble, of which I placed the broken pieces together; I read these words in Latin, ‘Hic jacet Guineverus Regins, Vxores, &c.’

Queene Guinever was Wife to the great Arthur, and she being buried there, it is to be conjectured that his bones were not layd far from her.

Mr. Camden, doth quote the Ancient Historian, William of Malmsbury, to write these words following concerning Glastenbury.

That it was the first Land of God in England, the first Land of Saints in England, the beginning and fountaine of all Religion in England, the Tombe of Saints, the Mother of Saints, the Church founded and built by the Lords Disciples.

I saw a branch or slip of the Hawthorne Tree that did beare. Blossomes every yeare (when all other Trees were frost-bitten, and seemed dead:) this Tree onely, on Christmas day, the day of our blessed Saviours Birth; this Tree did (in its kinde) snew its joy in comemoration of the Nativity of the Redeemer [Page] of unkinde mankinde: There are all the Inhabitants in the Towne will verifie it, and thousands in England and other Countries will affirme that it is no Fable: The Souldiers being over zealous did cut it downe in pure devotion; but a Vintner dwelling in the Towne did save a great ship or branch of it, and placed or set it in his Garden, and he with others did tell me that the same doth likewise Bloome on the 25. day of December, yearely; I saw the sayd branch, and it was ten foote high, greene, and flourishing; I did take a dead Sprigge from it, wherewith I made two or three Tobacco stoppers, which I brought to London; my humble thankes to Mr. Brooke, with (his good Sister) for they entertained me freely; so that the Towne of Glastonbury was not one penny the richer for any expences of mine.

Monday the second of Iuly, I went to Bridgewater ten miles, where all that was worthy of note was, that neare the Towne, at a stile I had a great disaster; for a shagge or splinter of the stile tooke hold of my one and onely breeches, and tore them in that extreme unmercifull, unmannerly manner, that for shame and modesties sake I was faine to put them off, and goe breechlesse into the Towne, where I found a botching threepenny Taylor, who did patch me up with such reparations as made me not ashamed to put my breeches on againe, and trot five miles further to a ragged Market Towne called Neather-St [...]y, where extreame weary, I tooke up my lodging, at a signe and no signe, which formerly was the Rose and Crowne; but Roses are withered, and Crownes are obscured, as the signe was.

[Page] Surely that day was a mad, sad, glad, auspicious, unlucky day to me, worse then an Ominous, Childermas, or a dogged byting dog-day; for the Hostesse was out of Towne, mine Host was very sufficiently drunke, the house most delicately deckt with exquisite artificiall, and naturall sluttery, the roome be sprinckled and strewed with the excrements of Pigs and Children; the wall and sielings were adorned and hanged with rare Spiders Tapistry, or cobweb Lawne; the smoake was so palpable and perspicuous, that I could scarce see any thing else, and yet I could scarce see that, it so blinded me with Rheum a signe of weeping; besides all this, the odorifferous and contagious perfume of that house was able to outvie all the Millainers in Christendome or Somersetshire.

I being thus embellished, or encompassed with these most unmatchable varieties; but to comfort me compleatly, mine Host swing'd off halfe a pot to me, bad me be merry, and asked me if I would have any powdred Beefe and Carrets to supper; I told him yes, with all my heart; but I being weary of the house, I went and sate three houres in the street, where mine Host often did visit me with most delightfull and hydropicall non-sense; at last, 7 of the clock was struck, and I went into the house to see if supper were ready; but I found small comfort there, for the fire was out, no Beefe to be boyled, mine Host fast asleep, the Maid attending the hogs, and my hungry selfe halfe starv'd with expectation; I awaked mine Host, and asked him where the Beefe was, he told me that he had none, and desired me to be contented with egges [Page] fryed with parsly; I prayed him to shew me my chamber, which he did; the chamber was sutable to the rest of the house; there I stayd till neere 9 a clock, expecting fry'd egges, when mine Host came to me with an empty answer, there were no egges to be had, so at the last I purchased a piece of bread and butter, and to bed, and then began my further torments; for thinking to take a little rest, I was furiously assualted by an Ethiopian Army of Fleas, and do verily believe that I layd so manfully about me that I made more then 500 mortuus est: they were so wel grown that as I took 'em I gave 'em no quarter, but rub'd 'em between my finger and my thumbe, and they were so plumpe & mellow, that they would squash to pieces like yong boyled pease: But all these troubles I patiently past by, making no more account of them, then of so many Flea-bytings. For my further delight, my chamber-pot seemed to be lined within with crimson plush, or shag'd scarlet bayes, it had scaped a scowring time out of minde, it was fur'd with antiquity, and withall it had a monumentall savour; and this pisse-pot was another of my best contentments.

At last, wearinesse and watching, began to inforce sleep upon me, so that (in spight of the fleas teeth) I began to winke, when suddenly, three children began to cry, and for an hours space I was kept waking, which made mee fall to the slaughter againe. The children being hush'd asleep, the game began afresh amongst the dogs, for the cry was up, and the bawling Currs took the word one from the other, all the Towne over; and the dogs had no sooner done, but the day break appeared, and the hogs began to cry [Page] cut for their breakfast: so I arose, and travelled (almost sleeping) 10. miles that day; which was to a Towne called Dunstar, where upon a lofty hill stands a strong Castle, it had then a Garrison in it; I'must confesse I was free there,

From nasty Roomes, that never fels broomes,

From excrements, and all bad sents,

From childrens bawling, and caterwawling,

From grunting of hogs, and barking of dogs,

And from byting of Fleas, there I found ease.

The fourth of Iuly, I travelled to Exfourd (so named) because it stands near the head, or spring of the River Ex, which runs downe fom North to South neere 40 miles to the City of Exeter, and to Exmouth, where it delivers it selfe into the Ocean, and from thence to Brayfourd, (another Fourd which runs into the River of Ex, as the people told me; but I finde it not so in the Map,) that dayes journey was sixteene miles, a teadious weary way for a crazy, old, lame, bad, foundered footman, I am sure I found it so; for when I came to my lodging I had more minde to eate then to fight, and a better stomack to a bed then a supper.

The fifth of Iuly, I walked but seven mi'es to Barnstable, a very fine sweete Towne, so cleane and neate, that in the worse of weather, a man may walke the streets, and never foule shooe or boote; there I stayd till the next day noone, being well and wellcomely entertained by one Mr. Iohn Downes, who gave me Fidlers fare, meate, drinke and money, for [Page] which I heartily thanked him: From thence I past by water five miles to Aplear.

Iuly the sixt (being Friday) I paced it ten miles to a place named Ferry Crosse, in the Parish of Allington, and the seven day I turned my back upon Devonshire, having gone that day fifteene miles to the first Market Towne in Cornewall (on the North-side of the County) named Stratten.

Cornewall is the Cornucopia, the compleate and repleate Horne of Abundance for high churlish Hills, and affable courteous people; they are loving to requite a kindenesse, placable to remit a wrong, and hardy to resort injuries; the Countrey hath its share of huge stones, mighty Rocks, noble, free, Gentlemen, bountifull housekeepers, strong, and stout men, handsome, beautifull women, and (for any that I know) there is not one Cornish Cuckold to be found in the whole County: In briefe they are in most plentifull manner happy in the abundance of right and left hand blessings.

It is a wonder that such rugged Mountains do produce such fertility of Corn, and Cattle; for if the happy dayes and times of peace were once settled. Cornewall might compare with any County in England, for quantity of all necessaries needfull, and quallity of persons.

The ninth of Iuly I left Stratten and ambled twenty miles to the Towne of Camelfourd, and to a Village called Blistland, and there I was taken for the man I was not; for they suspected me to be a bringer of Writs and Processe to serve upon some Gentlemen, and to bring men into trouble: But with much adoe [Page] I scaped a beating, by beating into their beliefes that I was was no such creature.

Iuly the tenth, I came to Bodman, (a Market Town) and from thence the same day to a Village called St. Enedor, a part of which Parish is called Penhall, there at a Smiths house was good lodging, better cheare, and best drinke; the Smith was lame, his Wife was faire and handsome, where if I could haue acted the part of Mars, there might have been played the Comedy of Vulean and Venus: that dayes travell was eighteen miles.

Iuly eleaventh, I progressed to Trure, another Market Towne, which is the Lord Roberts his Land; there I bought a fish called a Breame for three pence, it would have served foure men; after dinner I went eight miles further to a Towne called Redruith, in all that dayes travells eighteen miles, I saw nothing strange to me but a few Cornish Dawes (or Choughs) with red bills, and legs: They saluted me upon the wing, just in the language of our Jack Dawes about London, Ka, Ka.

The twelfth of Iuly, I came within two miles of Saint Michaels Mount, to an ancient house called by the name of Trimineague: it hath been, and is the birth place of Worthy Families, of the Noble name of the Godolphins: The right owner and possessour of it now is Francis Godolphin, Esquire, a Gentleman endowed with Piety, Humanity, Affability and Ability; he hath a heart charitable, a minde bountifull, and a hand liberall; he hath (deservedly) the cordiall love of all the County, and would have the enjoyments of earthly contentments, if once these discontented [Page] times were quieted: Seaven dayes I stayed with him, in which time he was pleased to send a Kinsman of his (M. Anthony Godolpheny) with me to see the Mount, which I thus describe. It is about a mile in compasse at the foote, and it rises 700 peces very steepe to the top, it is in forme like a great haycock or Reeke, or much like a Mounteere; on the top or Piram [...]s of it, is a fine Church called Saint Michaels, the sayd Church is now for no other use but a well stored Magazine with Ammunition, from whence (for a relique of remembrance) I brought halfe a yard of Saint Michaels Mounts Monumentall Match: I went to the top of the Church Tower seventy steps higher, and in my comming downe I viewed the Bells (which were five in number) being faire and handsome, they cannot be rung, because the crack rope Souldiers have broke all the Bell-ropes, insomuch as for any more ringing there, the Bells being ropelesse, the people are hopelesse.

To speake the truth of this so much talked of Famous Mount; it is lofty, rocky, innaccessible, impregnable not to be taken, or kept, nor worth the taking or keeping: It is a barren stony little wen or wait, that with men, Amunition, and Victualls is able to defend it selfe; but if it hath not the Sea and Land to friend, there is an Enemy called hunger (or famine) that will conquer Mounts and Mountaines: It can do no service to the seaward, for the water is so shallow, that no ship can saile within shot of it, and for Land service the Towne of Market Iew, stands better for defence: The Mount is an Island, and no Island, twice in every 24 houres: for when the Sea is up, [Page] Boates must be used to go to it, but upon the ebbe, Troopers may ride to it forty in Ranck: Market Iew is about two flight shoote of it, the Mayor whereof (one Mr. William Mabb) caused me to dine with him, for which I returne him a few printed thanks.

In the Mount I saw a craggy rugged seat, of Rocky Upholstery, which the old fabulous rumour calls St. Michaels Chayre: and a Well I saw there, which twice in 24 howres is fresh water, and salt water: This Mount had a Garrison within it, which made the Country people to grumble without it; yet the soldiers are pretty civill: and one Captaine Geary did courteously regard and drink with me at the Maiors house at Market Iew. From thence I returned to Mr. Godolphins, and he did perswade mee to see the Lands end, fourteen miles further; for which journey on the 16. day of July, he did lend me 2. horses, with his kinsman to ride with me, where (for his sake) I was welcome by the way, with a good dinner, at one Mr. Levales house, from whence I rode, and went as far as I could ride, goe, or creepe, for rockes and sea: and there I saw the Island of Silly, with other smaller Islands, which are sayd to be 16. or 17. in number. The mayne Island is held for the Prince, by one Captaine (or as some say, a Knight) called Sir Iohn Greenvill; it is very strong, with a good safe harbour, and as it is reported there, hath a good fleet of ships in it: some doe call it a second Argiere, for there cannot a ship or vessell passe by it, but they doe make out upon them, whereby they have great riches, with all necessaries: it was 8. leagues at least from me, insomuch that I could but onely see it dimly, and 2. ships I perceyved [Page] that lay at road (perdue) to give notice (as I conjectured) of the appearance of any shipping that sayled within their ken: I did cut my name 4. inches deep in a small patch of earth amongst the Rockes, at the Lands end, and I am sure no man can go thither and set his name or foot, halfe a foot before me.

The same day I returned to one Mr. Iones his house a mile thence, in the farthest Western Parish of the County of Cornwall, called Sevin; there I had good entertainment all night, by the Gentlemans and his Wives free welcome, which was out of their owne curteous disposition; but chiefly for Mr. Godolphins sake, to whom at Trimiweagow I returned, on the 17. of July, where I rested one day: and on the 18. day I tooke my leave, having received 7. dayes hospitality in plenty, with many other curtesies in money and other necessaries which I wanted; besides hee sent his kinsman with mee to direct mee the way to another Francis Godolphin of Godolphin house. That Gentleman is the chiefe of that noble name; his house a stately ancient Pallace, and my chear and welcome at dinner, most freely bountifull. After dinner hee walked with me, where (in my way) I saw his Mines of Tin, and a house where his workemen were refining and melting of Tin, which is a rich commodity. So at my taking leave of him, hee put ten shillings in my hand, which came to me in an acceptable time.

From thence I jog'd 3. miles further, to a house called Clowance in the Parish of Crowen, where dwells one Mr. Iohn Sentabin, he is sonne in Law to the first Godolphin I came to, whose daughter he marryed (a vertuous and beautifull Gentlewoman) where I tooke [Page] a welcome, a supper and a bed, till the next morning, being Iuly 19. he sent a man with me eight Miles to a sister of his, named Mrs. Gertrude, to her I was so welcome, that after I thought she had been weary of me, she would faine have had me to stay two dayes more, which I (with thankes refusing) she lent me a Mare (and a man to bring her home againe) which Mare I roade to a Towne called Penny com quick, within a mile of Pendennis Castle, which Castle I looked on a far off, but I durst not attempt to offer to go into it, for feares and jealousies might have mistaken me for a spy; for at all places of Garison, there is very strict examinations of persons, and at every Townes end, in all the sea Townes of part of Cornewall, Devonshire, Dorsetshire, and every Shine, no traveller could passe without catechizing words: As what is your name, whence came you, where dwell you, whither go you, what is your businesse, and wherefore came you hither? Now he that cannot answer these particular demands punctually, is to be had before Governours, Captaines, Commanders, Mayors, or Constables, where if a man doe chance to be suffered to passe freely from them, yet it is a hazard of the losse of a Travellers liberty by either their unbeliefe or misp ision, and at the best it is a hinderance to a mans journey and losse of time.

These considerations made me doubtfull to presume to looke into Pendennis Castle, or any other Garrison or place of defence: This Castle is seated very high, and it stands very defensive for the famous Haven of Faymouth, (one of the best Harbours for shipping in the world:) it was built by King Henry the [Page] eight, it is impregnable, and as long as it is well manned, amunitioned, and victualled, it is thought to be invincible, and theres an end of that poynt.

That day I past a Ferry called King Harries Passage, (but why it is so named few men knowe) there I lodged at the Ferry mans house, and the next morning being 21 of Iuly, I travelled twelve miles to a fisher Towne called Mevageasie; that Towne hath in it two Tavernes, and six Ale-houses, to every one of which I went for lodging, and not any one would harbour me, then I fought for a Constable to helpe me, but no Constable was to be found; the people all wondring at me, as if I had been some strange Beast, or Monster brought out of Affrica; at which most incivill and barbarous useage, I began to be angry, and I perceiving that no body cared for my anger, I discreetely went into the house where I first demanded lodging; where the Hostes being very willing to give me the courteous entertainement of Iack Drum, commanded me very kindely to get me out of dores, for there was no roome for me to lodge in. I told her that I would honestly pay for what I tooke, and that if I could not have a bed, yet I was sure of a house over my head, and that I would not out till the morning: with that a yong saucy knave told me that if I would not go out, he would throw me out, at which words my choller grew high, my indignation hot, and my fury fiery, so that I arose from a bench, went to my youth, and dared to the combate; whereat the Hostesse (with feare and trembling) desired me to be quiet, and I should have a bed, at which words my wrath was appeared, and my ire asswaged.

[Page] But straite wayes another storme seemed to appeare; for an ancient Gentleman came suddenly out of another Roome (who had heard all the former friendly passages,) and hee told mee that I should not lodge there, for though I had sought and not found a Constable, yet I should know that I had found a Justice of Peace before I sought him; and that he would see me safely lodged: I was somewhat amazed at his words, and answered him, Let him doe his pleasure, for I submitted my selfe to his disposall.

To which he replyde, That I should go but halfe a mile with him to his house, which I did, and there his good Wife and he did entertayne me courteously, with such fare and lodging, as might have accommodated any Gentleman of more worth and better quality then one that had been ten times in degree before me: there I stayd the Saturday and all the Sunday, where I found more Protestant Religion in 2. dayes, then I had in 5. yeers before. The Gentlemans name is Mr. Iohn Carew, a Gentleman of noble and ancient descent, and a worthy Iustice of the Peace in those parts.

I was certified, that in that little Town of Mevagesey, there are 44. Fisher Boats, which doe fish for Pilchards, that every Boat hath 6. men, and that every 2. Boats have one net between them: they doe call the 2. Boats a Seine; so there are 22. Seines, and 22. Nets: every Cornish Bushell is in measure 2. Bushels and a halfe of our measure at London: every 2. Boates (or Seine) doe spend 250. Bushels of Salt (Cornish measure) to salt Pilchards only; every Seine do use 100. Hogsheads to pickle the sayd Pilchards in yearly. So [Page] that this one little Towne, doth spend by Gods blessing, and the meanes of those small fishes, every year,

Of Salt, 22 times 350 Cornish Bushells, which is in the number of our Bushells, 14000,350.

Of Hogsheads, or Caske, 2200.

Of men for 44 Boats, 6 men for each, 264.

These men with their Families (being many in Number) are all maintained by Pilchard catching; but this is not all, for there are other greater [...]ownes in the County, which doe every one of them use the same trade of fishing, with more and greater numbers of men, boats, nets, caske, and much more quantity of salt; some of the other Townes are S. Keverne, Foye, Lee, with others which I cannot recite.

This infinite number of Pilchards, being salted and put up in Caske, are bought a mane by the Spanish, French, Datch, Italian, and other Merchants, and by them they are either eaten or fold, and transported to many other people and Nations: And now I hope I have filled my Renders bellies with Pilchards, without cloying or offending their stomack [...]; if any one be queasie, or doe feele a wambling in the Gizzard; let them call for a cup of S [...]ck, drinke it, and pay for it.

The 23 of Iuly, I came to Foye, and to Loo or Low) twenty miles; this Towne of Loo, is divided in two parts, or two Townes together, two Mayors, two Churches, two Governours, and more then two Religions; all that I can say of either of the Looes, is, that there was Souldiers and swordmen, strong Beere and dagger Ale, Land flesh and Sea fish in plenty.

On the 24. of Iuly, I turned my back upon Cornewall, and went from Loo to Plimouth in Devonshire, [Page] twelve miles: At Plimouth I stayd not two houres, the Towne was too full of suspitions to hold me: There I saw Colonel William Leg, a prisoner in the Towerhouse, or Guild hall, I spake to him (being on the ore side of the way in a window, and he on the other) in a low whispering voice that every one might heare what we sayd; I wished him health and liberty, and so left him in thraldome; There was two Stationers did make me very welcome for two or three houres; their names were Thomas Ratcliffe and William Weekes, they gave me smoake and drinke in Plimouth, for which I require them in Paper and Inck at London.

That afternoone I left Plimouth, and went foure miles further, to Plimpton, and on the morrow (being Saint Iames his day) I hired a horse forty miles to Exeter, where I was two dayes entertained at mine owne cost, with some charges that Burgomasters and Bookesellers underwent: I can say little of Exeter, but that it is a faire sweete City, a goodly Cathedrall Church (not yet quite spoyled or stabled) and it had large Suburbs, with long streets, and many fine dwellings till this mad fire of contention turned all to ruines, rubbidge, cinders, Ashes, and fume.

Two houres before Phabus appeared in our hemisphere, I was on footback from Exeter to Honiton, the 27. of Iuly, there I had a nights lodging, and dyet of such a homely fashion, as I have no occasion to boast of; there I hired a Horse (which proved to be a blinde Mare) she had two wens as big as clusters of Grapes hung over both her eyes, and five or six wens on her shoulders and flanks, all which beautifull ornaments I [Page] could not perceive or see till I had road the beast foure mile, (for I was mounted before the breake of day;) but when I saw the comelynesse of the beast, betweene shame and anger I was almost mad at the Rogue that owned her; and being neere to a Market Towne called Axmister, I dismounted, and footed eight miles to Broad Winsor in Dersetshire, where I was better horst eight miles further to Evershot, and then I paced on foote eight miles further to the Towne of Sherbourne, that dayes travell was 31 mile.

The 31 of Iuly, I went from Sherbourne to Shafisbury, and so to Wilton, and Salisbury, 31 mile: At Wilton I saw the Earle of Pembrokes Magnificent and Sumptuous Building and repairing of such a stately Fabrick, that for strength, beauty, forme, state, glazing, painting, gilding, carving, pollishing, embellishing and adorning: It may be a Pallace for the greatest King in Christendome: the Springs, and Fishponds, the Garden, the Walkes, the rare Artificiall Rocks and Fountaines, the Ponds with fish on the house top, the strange figures and fashions of the water workes, the numerous, innumerable varieties of fruits and flowers; yea all, and every thing that may make an earthly Paradice, is there to be seene, felt, heard, or understood, (which because I understand not) I shut up all with this, there is inestimable cost, exquisite Art and Artists, most exceeding good work and workemen, onely one thing (that is quite out of fashion almost every where) is used there, which is good and just payment.

From Wilton, to Salisbury two miles, there I sleeped out the later end of the whole Moneth of Iuly. [Page] I had a desire to go into the Church there (one of the fairest in England) but now the playes be downe, there was no sights to be seen without money, which though I could have payd, yet for two Reasons I would not; the one was because I had oftentimes seene that Church in former times, when Gods Service was sayd there, and the second cause why I would not be guilty of Simony, and with corrupting Mammon enter or intrude into the House of God.

The first of August, I footed to Andover, fifteene old miles, and eighteene new ones, (of the Posts late measuring:) The next day to Merrell Greene, 24 miles, the third day to Stanes, eighteene miles, and the fourth of August fifteene miles to London: My journey being in all 546 miles, which I went and came in six Weekes, and lay still and rested twelve dayes in severall places on Weeke dayes, besides six Sundayes: But all this was nothing to me, being a youth of threescore and ten, with a lame leg and a halfe, and there is an end of the story.

Like to the stone of Sisiphus. I roule

From place to place, through weather faire and foule,

And yet I every day must wander still

To vent my Bookes, and gather friends good will;

I must confesse this worke is frivalowse,

And he that (for it) daigues to give a lowse,

Doth give as much for't as 'tis worth, I know;

Yet meerly merily I this jaunt did goe

In imitation of a mighty King.

Whose warlike acts, good fellowes often sing,

The King of France and twenty thousand men,

Went up the Hill, and so came downe agen.

So I this travell past, with cost and paine,

And (as I wisely went) came home againe.

FINIS.

§

[Page]

JOHN TAYLORS VVandering, to see the VVonders of the VVEST.

How he travelled neere 600. Miles, from London to the Mount in Cornwall, and beyond the Mount, to the Lands end, and home againe.

Dedicated to all his loving Friends, and free minded Benefactors.

In these dangerous dayes for Rich men, and miserable times for the Poore Servants of the late King, (whereof I was one, 45. yeers to his Royall Father and Himself) I thought it needful to take some course to make use of some friends, and devise a painfull way for my subsistence; which was the Journey I have past, and this Booke heere present; for which purpose I gave out many of these following Bills, to which neere 3 [...]00. Gentlemen and others, have kindly subscribed, to give me a reasonable reward.

Printed in the Yeere 1649.

Information about this book

Title statement

John Taylors vvandering, to see the vvonders of the vvest. How he travelled neere 600. miles, from London to the Mount in Cornwall, and beyond the Mount, to the Lands end, and home againe. Dedicated to all his loving friends, and free minded benefactors. In these dangerous dayes for rich men, and miserable times for the poore servants of the late King, (whereof I was one, 45. yeers to his royall father and himself) I thought it needful to take some course to make use of some friends, and devise a painfull way for my subsistence; which was the journey I have past, and this booke heere present; for which purpose I gave out many of these following bills, to which neere 3000. gentlemen and others, have kindly subscribed, to give me a reasonable reward.

Taylor, John, 1580-1653.

Edition statement

1649

Publication

Publisher

Text Creation Partnership,

Place of publication

Ann Arbor, MI ; Oxford (UK) :

Date

2009-03 (EEBO-TCP Phase 1).

ID [DLPS]

A64216

ID [STC]

Wing T528

ID [STC]

ESTC R203757

ID [EEBO-CITATION]

99863590

ID [PROQUEST]

99863590

ID [VID]

115800

Availability

This keyboarded and encoded edition of the work described above is co-owned by the institutions providing financial support to the Early English Books Online Text Creation Partnership. This Phase I text is available for reuse, according to the terms of Creative Commons 0 1.0 Universal. The text can be copied, modified, distributed and performed, even for commercial purposes, all without asking permission.

Series

Early English books online.

Notes

(EEBO-TCP ; phase 1, no. A64216)

Transcribed from: (Early English Books Online ; image set 115800)

Images scanned from microfilm: (Thomason Tracts ; 88:E573[12])

Source

— John Taylors vvandering, to see the vvonders of the vvest. How he travelled neere 600. miles, from London to the Mount in Cornwall, and beyond the Mount, to the Lands end, and home againe. Dedicated to all his loving friends, and free minded benefactors. In these dangerous dayes for rich men, and miserable times for the poore servants of the late King, (whereof I was one, 45. yeers to his royall father and himself) I thought it needful to take some course to make use of some friends, and devise a painfull way for my subsistence; which was the journey I have past, and this booke heere present; for which purpose I gave out many of these following bills, to which neere 3000. gentlemen and others, have kindly subscribed, to give me a reasonable reward., Taylor, John, 1580-1653..

Extent

[2], 21, [1] p.

s.n.],. [London :: Printed in the yeer 1649.. (Partly in verse.) (Place of publication from Wing.) (Annotation on Thomason copy: "7ber [i.e. September] 12 1649".) (Reproduction of the original in the British Library.)

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