CHAP. I. Of the Roads from France to the hither parts of Asia, and the Places from whence they usually set out for Ispahan.

A Man cannot travel in Asia, as they do in Europe; nor at the same Hours, nor with the same ease. There are no weekly Coaches or Wagons from Town to Town; besides, that the Soil of the Countries is of several natures. In Asia you shall meet with several Regions untill'd and unpeopl'd, either through the badness of the Climate and Soil, or the sloth of the Inhabitants, who rather choose to live miserably, than to work. There are vast Deserts to cross, and very dangerous, both for want of Water, and the Robberies that the Arabs daily commit therein. There are no certain Stages, or Inns to entertain Travellers. The best Inns, especially in Turkie, are the Tents which you carry along with you, and your Hosts are your Servants, that get ready those Victuals which you have bought in good Towns. You set up your Tent in the open Field, or in any Town where there is no Inn: and a good shift too in temperate weather, when the Sun is not too hot, or that it does not rain. In the Carvansera's or Inns which are more frequent in Persia than in Turkie, there are persons that furnish you with Provisions, and the first come are best served. As for Turkie it is full of Thieves, that keep in Troops together, and way-lay the Merchants upon the Roads, and if they be not very well guarded will certainly rob them: nay many times murder them. A mis­chief prevented in Persia, by the well order'd convenience which is provided for Travellers. To avoid these dangers and inconveniences, you are oblig'd to stay [Page 2] for the Caravans, that go for Persia or the Indies, which never set out but at certain times, and from certain places.

These Caravans set out from Constantinople, Smyrna, and Aleppo. And it is from one of these Cities that a Traveller must set out, that intends for Persia, whether he keeps company with the Caravan, or will hazard himself alone with a Guide, as once I did.

I will begin with Constantinople, from whence you may go either by Land or Sea: and either by Land or Sea there are two ways to go. The first of these by Land is that which I took with Monsieur Chapes and Monsieur St. Liebau. By the way take notice; that Vienna is the half-way near upon between Paris and Constantinople. The second Read is less frequented, but is less inconvenient and less dangerous: for there are no need of the Emperour's Pasports, which he does not grant very freely: besides that here is no fear of the Pirates of Tunis or Argier, as when you embarque from Marseilles of Ligorn. If you intend this way, you must go to Venice; from Venice to Ancona, from whence several Barques are bound every Week for Ragusa. From Ragusa you sail along by the Shore to Durazzo a Sea-Port of Albania; from whence you travel the rest of the way by Land. From Durazzo to Albanopolis, distant three days journey, from thence to Monestier, just as far; from Monestier you may either take the left hand through Sophia, and Philippopolis, or the right through In­guischer, three days journey from Monestier, and ten from Adrianople, from whence in five days you reach Constantinople through Selivrea.

This last way is part by Sea and part by Land: but there are two other ways alto­gether by Land, above and below Italy, according to the distinction which Antiquity made of the two Seas that almost encompass it. You may embark at Venice, and saying along the Gulf which is free from Pirates, you must double the Cape of Matapan, the most Southern Point of all Europe, to enter into the Archipelago. The other way is from Marseilles or Ligorn, from whence several Vessels are bound for the East. The safest way is to go along with the English or Holland Fleets, that usually arrive at Ligorn either in the Spring or in Autumn, and part just against the Morea, to the several parts whither they are bound. As the Wind serves, those Fleets sometimes make Sail between the Iland of Elba and Italy, and by the Tower of Messina: sometimes below Sicily and Sardigna, within sight of Malta. Thus you must come within sight of Candy, whether you are bound for Constantinople, Smyrna, or Alexandretta, from whence it is but three days journey to Aleppo: from one of which three Cities, you must necessarily begin your journey, if you intend for Persia.

Some take Egypt in their way, using through Alexandria, Cairo, and Damiata, whence several Vessels are bound for Joppa; or St. John's of Acra, which is not far off: from thence to Jerusalem or Damascus, and from thence to Bagdat or Babylon.

If you will venture in a single Vessel not staying for the Fleets, you may hire a Vessel from Ligorn to Naples, from Naples to Messina, keeping along by the Shore, and lying a-shore every night. I took this way, and went from Messina to Syracuse, where are to be seen the most remarkable footsteps of Antiquity. 'Tis like a City under ground, and near to it is a great Rock which has been made hollow, at the bottom whereof if a man whisper, they that are at the top may hear him. They call this Rock Dionysius the Tyrant's Ear: for being at the top, he easily understood what the People said of him below; and discovered the Counsels of the chief Men of Syracuse, whom lie kept prisoners there. Syracuse has nothing of that splendour which renown'd it when it was the Mistress of all Sicily, and when Greece, jealous of her power, made War upon her. But the Soil is very plentiful, and the Gallies of Malta very often take in their Provisions there. Near the City is a fair Convent of Capuchin Friers, going out of which you may walk for half an hour between two very high Rocks, where there are several little Cells with every one a Garden, where the Friers sometimes retire, and it is certainly one of the most pleasing Solitudes in the World.

From Syracuse I went to Malta, where you must wait for some Ship that is bound for the East.

CHAP. II. Of the Road from Constantinople to Ispahan, which the Author kept in his first Travels into Persia.

IT is seldom that any Caravans go from Constantinople into Persia; but from Bursa they go every two Months: Bursa is the Capital City of Bithynia, not above three days journey from Constantinople, or a little more. These two Roads meet at Chabangi, where you may be from Bursa in two Days: and so I will only speak of the Roads from Constantinople to Ispahan. This Journey is to be under­taken either with the Caravan of Camels, or else ten or twelve Men in a Company, well mounted and well arm'd.

From Constantinople, you cross over to Scutari, upon the Coast of Asia.

Setting out from Scutari, the first days journey is very pleasant, over Fields gayly painted with Flowers in their season. At first for some time together, on both sides the way, you see nothing but fair Sepulchers with their Pyramids, and you may easily discern the Womens Monuments from the Mens. For there is a Turbant upon the Pyramid of the Mens Sepulcher, but the Pyramids of the Womens Monuments are trimm'd with the Head-Attire which is worn by the Women of the Country. That Evening you must lye at Cartali, a Village of Bithynia, the next Day at Gebisa, anciently Lybissa, famous for the Tomb of Hannibal. In that place there are two good Inns, and two fair Fountains.

The third Day you come to Isnich, which is thought to be the ancient Niceae; one part of the City is built upon the descent of a Hill, the other part upon a Plain that reaches to the Sea, and makes the Golf of Isnich. The Haven consists of two Moles made of Free-stone, and three great Enclosures encompass'd with Walls, which serve instead of so many Arsenals, wherein there are Store-houses full of large Timber, for building Houses and Galleys. The Country round about being an excellent place for Hunting, and the Soil bearing rare Fruits, and rich in Wine, caus'd Sultan Amuratt to build a Seraglio in the highest part of the Town, from whence there is a prospect at the same time both over the Sea and the Country. The Jews inhabit the greatest part of the Town, dealing chiefly in Timber and Corn. When the Wind serves, you may go from Constantinople to Isnich in seven or eight Hours, there being no danger in the passage.

The fourth Day you stay at Chabangi, a small Town built upon the side of a Lake, call'd Chaban-Gigul, where there are two Inns. From the beginning of the Lake for two Leagues together you travel partly over Mountains, partly by the Lake­side; where in some places the Horse will be up to the Belly. This Lake is not above ten Leagues in compass; but it yields great store of large Fish, infomuch that I have bought a Pike two Foot and a half long for three Sous. Many Emperours have had a design to make a Cutt out of this Lake into the Sea, for the more easie trans­porting to Constantinople the Timber which grows upon the Mountains near the Lake. And if the Grand Visier, who by a Miracle dy'd in his Bed, and left his Son suc­cessor to his Employment, had liv'd some few Years longer, he had no question added this to the rest of those famous Works that eterniz'd his Memory.

Departing from Chabandi, you come to lye at Night upon the Bank of a River call'd Zacarat, which runs Northward and falls into the Black Sea. It is a River plentiful in Fish, and you cross over it with a wooden Bridge. There is neither Town, nor Inn in that place; but a League from the River is a great Town call'd Ada, the chiefest part of the Inhabitants whereof are Armenians. Thither we sent for excellent good Wine, and other necessary refreshments.

From that River to Cancoly, where you lye the next Night, and have your choice of four Inns; you travel all the day in the Mershes, over wooden Bridges and Causeys.

Tuskebasar is the next place, a small Village with two Inns. From thence to Car­gueslar, a great Town, with one Inn; built upon a River, where there is great store of Fish taken, which the Inhabitants call Bourma-balouky, that is to say, the [Page 4] Fish with the long Nose: It is speckl'd like a Trout; but of a better tast, and more esteem'd. Polia, or Polis, is a City seated at the foot of several Mountains, the Inhabitants whereof are for the most part Greeks. These Mountains are very high, and extend themselves along the Road for two days journey. They are full of several sorts of Trees, which are streight and tall like Firr-trees; and divided by so many Torrents, which it would be hard to pass over, were it not for the Bridges that the Grand Visier Kuprigli caus'd to be built. In regard the soil of these Moun­tains is very fat, there would be no drawing for the Horses after great Rains or the melting of the Snow, had not the same Visier caus'd all the Ways to be Pav'd and Pitch'd, even as far as Constantinople. A Work of great Charge, in regard there is not a Flint in any part of the Mountain, and for that the Stone is to be fetch'd a great way off. There are abundance of Pigeons as big as Hens, and of an excellent tast, which not only pleas'd our Appetites, but afforded us very good Pastime to shoot them. Between the City and the Mountain, there is a Plain about two Leagues in length; near to which, there glides a River that waters it, and very much contributes to its fertility. It is an excellent Soil, and produces all things necessary for Humane Life, Upon each side of the way I counted above twenty Churchyards. For it is the custom of the Turks to bury near the Highway, be­lieving that the Travellers pray for the Souls of the deceas'd. Upon every Tomb, there is to be seen a Marble Pillar, half fix'd in the Earth: of which Pillars there are so great a number, of various Colours, that it is from thence conjectur'd, that there were a very great number of Christian Churches in Polia, and the parts there­abouts. They assur'd me likewise, that there were a vast quantity of these Pillars in the Villages up and down in the Mountains, which the Turks every day pull down to set upon their Tombs.

Bendourlour is a Village in the Mountains, where there is one Inn.

Gerradar is beyond the Mountains, where there are two Inns.

Carg [...]slar has two Inns, and lyes in a good Country.

Caragalan, is a Town where there are two Inns.

Cosizar is a Village with one Inn.

Tocia is a great City situated upon rising Hills, that joyn to very high Moun­tains. Upon the Winter West, there appears a fair Champain Country, water'd by a Stream that falls into a River of a greater bigness, call'd Guselarmac. Upon the highest of the smaller Hills toward the East, there is a Fortress, where a Basha resides; and in the Town is one of the fairest Inns upon the Road. The greatest part of the Inhabitants are Christian Greeks, who have the advantage to drink ex­cellent Wine, with which the Country furnishes them in abundance.

Agisensalou stands upon a River, and there is an Inn and a fair Mosquee in it.

Ozeman is a little City, seated at the foot of a Hill upon which there stands a strong Castle, and below two very commodious Inns. The River Guselarmac, broad and deep, washes the South side of the City, which you cross, over one of the fairest Bridges that ever was seen. It consists of fifteen Arches, all of Free­stone, and is a Work that shews the Grandeur of the Undertaker. Somewhat at a distance from the Bridge stand six Corn-Mills all together, with little wooden Bridges to go from one to another. This River falls into the Euxin Sea, about eight days journey from Ozeman.

Azilar is a great Town, where there are two Inns.

Delekiras is a great Village, with one Inn.

These Four Days Journeys are very dangerous, by reason that the Ways are narrow, and commodious for Robbers. They are very numerous in this Country; and therefore understanding that we were way-laid, we sent and desir'd a Convoy of the Basha, who lent us fifty Horsemen.

Amasia is a great City, built upon an ascent in the hollow of a Mountain. It has no prospect, but only from the South over a fair Plain. The River that runs by it comes from Tocat, and throws it self into the Black Sea, four days journey from Amasia. You cross it over a wooden Bridge, so narrow that not above three persons can go a-brest. To bring fresh Water to the City, they have cut a League into Rocks as hard as Marble, which was a prodigious Labour. On the West-side, upon a high Mountain, stands a Fortress, where they can come by no other Water than [Page 5] what they preserve in Cisterns when it rains. In the middle of the Mountain is a fair Spring, and round about it are several Chambers cut out of the Rock, where the Dervichs make their abode. There are but two Inns, and those very bad ones, in Amasia. But the Soil is good, and bears the best Wine and Fruits in all Na­tolia.

Ainabachar, is the name of an Inn, distant a quarter of a League from a great Town where they fetch their Provisions.

Turcall is a great Town near to a Mountain, upon which there stands a Castle. The River that comes from Tocatt washes the Houses, and we caught excellent Fish in it. In that place is another of the fairest Inns upon the Road.

From Turcall you may travel in one day to Tocatt, where the Road from Smyrna to Ispahan meets.

Tocat is a good fair City built at the foot of a very high Mountain, spreading it self round about a great Rock that stands almost in the midst of the Town, upon the top whereof a high Castle commands the neighbouring parts, with a good Garrison in it. It is very ancient, and the remainder of three others that stood there in former times. The City is very well inhabited with Turks, who are the Lord Con­trollers, Armenians, Greeks, and Jews. The Streets are very narrow, but the Houses are indifferent well built; and among several Mosquees, there is one very magnificent, which seems to be newly rear'd. There was also a very fair Inn going up, which when I last travell'd that way, was not quite finish'd. There is one thing more particular and more commodious at Tocat, which is not to be found in any Inns upon the Road, That round about all the Caravansera's in the Town, there are Lodgings which they let out to Merchants, that desire to be by themselves out of the noise and hurry of the Caravans, whiles they stay at Tocat. Besides that, in those private Lodgings you have your liberty to drink Wine, and provide for the rest of your Journey; which is not so easily done in the publick Inns, where the Turks will have an eye upon the Merchants, to draw Money out of their pockets. The Christians have twelve Churches at Tocat, and there resides an Archbishop, that has under him seven Suffragans. There are also two Monasteries for Men, and two for Women; and for fourteen or fifteen Leagues round Tocat, the Country is all inhabited by Armenian Christians, but very few Greeks being intermix'd among them. The greatest part of these Christians are Tradesmen, and for the most part Smiths. A fair River runs about half a quarter of a League from the City, which rises near to Erzerom, and is cross'd at Tocat over a very beautiful stone Bridge. Upon the North-side of the City, it waters a Plain three or four days Journey in extent, and two or three Leagues broad. It is very fertil, and replenish'd with fair Vil­lages very well peopl'd. A man may live very cheap at Tocat: the Wine is most excellent, and all sort of rare Fruit very plentiful. It is the only place in all Asia where plenty of Saffron grows, which is the best Commodity you can carry to the Indies, where a Pound, as the Years fall out, is worth thirteen or fourteen Every Frank being 2 s. sterling. Franks, though the Wax that preserves it, be as much in weight as the Saffron. This City, with the Lands belonging to it, usually is the Dowager Sultanesses Joynture. There is only an Aga and a Cady, that command there in the behalf of the Grand Signor: for the Basha, from whom they receive their Orders, lives at Sivas, which is the ancient Sebastia, and a very great City, some three days journey from Tocat. In short, Tocat is one of the most remarkable Thoroughfares in the East, where are continually lodg'd the Caravans from Persio, Diarbequer, Bagdat, Constantinople, Smyrna, Synopus, and other places; and here the Caravans turn off, as they are variously bound. They that are for Constantinople, take to the Winter West upon the right hand; they that are for Smyrna, incline to the Summer West, upon the left hand. When you set out either way out of Tocat, there is a Toll gatherer, that counts all the Camels and Horses that pass by, and exacts for every Camel a quarter of a Rixdollar, and for every Horse half as much. As for the Horses or Camel that carry the Passengers or their Provisions, they pay nothing. This continual concourse of the Caravans trolls the Money about at Tocat, and makes it one of the most con­siderable Cities of Turkie.

Setting out of Tocat to go to Erzerom, you discover a little Village so situated under a Hill, as if the Mountain lay a top of it; and between that Mountain and the River, the Road is very narrow where the Caravan is to pass. In this Road it [Page 6] was, that we met the Grand Visier returning from Hunting, with a Train of four hundred men: so soon as he perceiv'd us, he fil'd off all his men to give us liberty to pass by. But among all the Company, there was not above four Franks upon which he particularly cast his Eye; which made him send for the Caravan Bachi to know who we were. The Caravan Bachi, to avoid the ill Consequences of jealousie which the Visier might have of the Franks, at a time when the Grand Visier made War in Persia, told him we were Jews; at which the Visier, shaking his Head, reply'd only that we did not look like such, and happy it was for us that he took no farther notice. For it was twenty to one, but that upon better consideration he might have sent after us to have stopt us. But when he came home to his Lodging he found a Capigi staying for him, with Orders from the Grand Signor to take off his Head, which were presently executed. For Amurath being troubl'd for the loss of his Army, had no way but to revenge himself upon the person that had the command of it.

Notwithstanding that the Caravans rest at Tocat, yet they stay likewise two or three days at Charkliqueu, which is not above two Leagues distant from it; for Charkliqueu is a great Town in a lovely Country, between two fertil Hills, where there grows excellent Wine. It is for the most part inhabited by Christians, who are generally Tanners. The fine blew Goat-leather Skins being drest in Tocat, and the Parts thereabout. It is thought the Water contributes very much to their Art. For Tocat is as famous for the blew Goats-leather Skins, as Diarbequir and Bagdat are for the red, Moussul or the ancient Niniveh for the yellow, and Ourfa for the black. About two thousand Paces from this Town, in the midst of a Plain rises a vast Rock, upon the North-side whereof you ascend about nine or ten steps into a Chamber with a Bed, a Table, and a Cupboard in it, all hewn out of the Rock. Upon the West-side you ascend other five or six steps that lead to a little Gallery, about five or six Foot long, and three broad, all hewn out of the Rock, though it be of an extraordinary hardness. The Christians affirm that St. Chrysostom made this Rock his retiring-place during his Exilement, and that he had no other Bed or Bolster than the Rock it self, in a place where they shew you the print of a Man's Body. Hence it is, that the Caravans, consisting for the most part of Christian Merchants, stay at Charkliqueu, to pay their Devotions to this Rock, where the Bishop of the place, attended by some Priests, with every one a Taper in their Hands, goes and says Mass. But the main Reason is, because there grows excellent Wine in this place, which being cheaper by half here, than it is at Tocat, obliges the Armenians to stop here, to provide themselves for the rest of their Journey.

Two Leagues from Charkliqueu, you cross over very high Mountains, with Pre­cipices on both sides. It is the custom of the Armenians, when they hear of the approach of a Caravan, to ride out two or three days journey to meet their Coun­try-men and carry them fresh Provisions. Those of Charkliqueu coming to meet our Caravan, three of the Armenians took a large Mornings-draught, which made them so Pot-valiant, that they would needs ride before to the Town alone by them­selves; but by the way they were set upon by six Horse-men that came from the North, where there are higher Mountains than those which we were to cross. Imme­diately the Thieves darted their Half-Pikes at the Armenians, in so much that two of them fell down mortally wounded, and the other sav'd himself among the Rocks, but the Thieves got their Horses and Goods, which were valu'd at ten thou­sand Crowns. The Caravan at the top of the Hill beheld the misfortune of those poor men which their own folly had brought upon them, but could not help them, by reason of the narrowness of the ways; besides, that the Thieves knowing all the by-turnings, were presently out of sight. And therefore it is a dangerous thing to leave the Body of the Caravan, either by staying too far behind, or running too fast before: and some have suffer'd for distancing themselves not above five hun­dred Paces from it.

The Caravans do not make their Journeys all alike; but come to their Stages sometimes sooner, sometimes later, according as they meet with Water and Inns, or places fit to pitch their Tents in, to which places the Natives bring Provision and Provender from the Mountains. There are some places where there is a neces­sity to provide Straw and Barley for two or three days. If you travel in May, when the Grass is high, it costs nothing to seed the Horses and Camels. For as [Page 7] soon as the Caravan is lodg'd, the Servants go and cut the Grass from off the Hil­locks, where it is much better then upon the Plains. But while the Beasts feed only upon Grass they are much weaker, and cannot travel so far as at other times.

From the Mountain where the Armenians were set upon, you come to Almous, a little Village upon a River, which you cross, over a Bridge of Wood.

Going out of Almous, you cross a large Plain, at the end whereof you lodge upon the Bank of a fair River, call'd Toufanlou-sou, which falls into the River of Tocat.

Having pass'd this River, you ascend a high Mountain, which the People of the Country call Kara-bchir-boguiendren, or, the Mountain that stops the Grand Signors; for it is very rugged, and you must of necessity alight, to ascend it. In that bad Way two Horses that carry'd each of them two Bales of English Cloth burst under their Burthen, which prov'd excellent Food for several Tartars that were before us, and were pitch'd in the place where we intended to have lodg'd our selves; so that we were forc'd to go a quarter of a League farther. These Tartars when they heard of our two dead Horses, made immediately to the Mountain fifteen or sixteen of them with all joy imaginable, to devour it. They flea'd the Horses, and when they came back (for I stay'd to see them) they brought every one a great piece of Flesh between the Saddle and their Horses backs. For by that means the Flesh mortifies, and bakes as it were, through the motion and heat of the Horse, and so they eat it without any more a-do. I saw one of them that took a piece of those Horses Flesh, and after he had beaten it soundly between two nasty Linnen Clothes, with a piece of a Stick, set his Teeth in it, and devour'd it with a very greedy appetite.

Upon the top of the Mountain which I have mention'd, there is a Plain, and in the mid'st of the Plain a Fountain call'd Chesmé-beler, or, A Fountain of Crystal; near to which, on the South-side, there stands a Village.

From the place where we lodg'd, we came to a little Town called Adras, the In­habitants whereof are all Armenians.

Aspidar is but two Leagues from Adras, and is but a Village.

Isbeder is another Village in the Mountains, where the Caravan generally stays one or two days; as well to pay the Custom, which is the fourth part of a Rixdollar upon every Camel, and half as much for every Horse; as for the excellency and cheap­ness of the Wine, where every Man provides for himself.

Twice we pass'd by and paid nothing, in regard that the Caravan was too strong for the Toll-gatherers; and were it not that they stay for the Wine, they might go directly forward without paying any thing.

Leaving Isbeder, we came to another great Town in the Mountains; all the Houses are hewn out of the Rock upon which it is seated, as are also all the Stair-Cases. From this Village, having pass'd a River, over a wooden Bridge, at the end whereof there stands an Inn, you come to Zacapa, another Village, from whence through very narrow passages, where you are forc'd to unload the Camels, and carry your Goods upon Mens shoulders for thirty Paces together, you come to encamp in a little Plain. It lyes at the foot of a high Mountain, which they call Dikmebell, beyond which lies the Town Kourd-Aga, after which you cross three Rivers; one fordable, the other over two Bridges, and then you come to a Village call'd Garmeru.

From Garmeru you go to Seukmen, another Village; from Seukmen to Louri; from Louri to Chaouqueu, which are two very handsom Towns.

I saw an Old Man at Chaouqueu who was above a Hundred and Thirty Years old, who when Sultan Amurath besieged Bagdat, gave his whole Army as much Oats as serv'd them one whole day. In recompence whereof, the Sultan exempted him and his Children from all Taxes and Tolls for their Lives.

Leaving Chaouqueu, you come to a high craggy Mountain which is call'd Aaggi­dogii, or, The Bitter Mountain. The Ways being narrow, the Caravan is forc'd to travel single; and then it is that they count all the Horses, and all the Camels; every Horse and every Camel paying to the Caravan-Master a certain Duty, which amounts to a good Sum if the Caravan be numerous. One part of that Money is to pay seven or eight Armenians, that guard the Caravan all the way; another part [Page 8] defrays the Expences upon the Road; and the remainder is the Captain of the Ca­ravan's Profit.

Having pass'd this Mountain, you come to lodge in a Plain which they call Gioganderesi, and from thence to Erzerom you meet only with three Villages by the way, Achikala, Ginnis, and Higia, which are the Caravan's Stages. During these three last days journeys, you keep all along the Banks of Euphrates for the most part, which is yet but narrow, taking its source Northward of Erzerom. 'Tis a wonderful thing to see the vast quantities of large Asparagus that grow all along the River, with which you may load several Camels.

A League on this side Erzerom the Caravan is constrain'd to stop; for the Officer of the Custom-House accompani'd with the Basha's Lieutenant, comes here and tyes all the Bales and Chests with a cross Cord, upon which he puts a Seal, to the end that when the Merchants come to the Town, they may not be able to take out any Bags of Money, or any pieces of Stuff on purpose to hide them till they go away. The particular Business of the Basha's Lieutenant in meeting the Caravan, is to see whether the Merchants be well provided with Wines. And if he desire any Bottles, whether it be then, or in the City, where they are not asham'd to visit every Merchant, there is no refusing them. For there grows no Wine at Erzerom, all that is drank there being a small Wine of Mingrelia, which is always green: which forces the Merchants to furnish themselves with Wine at Tocat, which they may do sufficiently to last them into Persia. The Officer of the Custom-House generally allows the Caravan three days to rest; during which time he sends to the principal Merchants some Fruit and other small Refreshments, by which he is no loser. After the three days are over, he comes and opens all the Bales and Chests, and takes a particular account of all the Merchandizes. This Search and the changing of Beasts, causes the Caravan to stay generally twenty or five and twenty days at Erzerom.

Erzerom is a frontier Town of Turkie toward Persia. It is situated at the end of a large Plain environ'd with Mountains, the Plain being beautifi'd with many fair Villages. If you take in the Castle and the Suburbs it may pass for a City, but the Houses are ill built of Wood, without any neatness or proportion. There are some Remains of Churches and of the ancient Buildings of the Armenians, by which you may conjecture that it never was very beautiful. The Fortress stands upon a high ground, with a double Wall, square Towers close one to another, and a pitiful Moat. The Basha resides there but in a very ill House, all the Buildings about the Fortress being in a bad condition. In the same Enclosure there is a little rising Ground upon which they have rais'd a small Fort, wherein the Janisary-Aga lives; and where the Basha has no Power. When the Grand Signor has a mind to the Head of this Basha, or any other considerable person in the Province, he sends a Capigi, with order to the Janisary to send for the Person to the little Fort, where the Execution is presently done. One Example hereof I saw in my last Travels into Persia: For the Basha of Erzerom not having sent Twelve thousand Men so soon as the Grand Signor requir'd them for his Wars in Candy, the same Capigi that brought the Sentence of his Death, had the same Order for the Exe­cution of the Basha of Kars; and meeting this Capigi upon the Road in a Village, upon his return for Constantinople, he would needs shew me whether I would or no, the Heads of the two Basha's, which he was carrying to the Grand Signor in a Bag.

Between the first and second Gate of the Fortress are to be seen four and twenty Pieces of Cannon, most excellent Guns, but lying one upon another without Carriages. They lye at Erzerom to be ready upon all occasions when the Grand Signor makes War against the Persians.

There are in Erzerom several great Inns; this City, like Tocat, being one of the greatest Thoroughfares in Turkie. The Country about it bears Wine, but not very good, and in regard the People are strictly forbid to drink Wine, the Merchants are forc'd to buy it very privately, for fear it should come to the know­ledge of the Cadi. Though it be very cold at Erzerom, Barley grows there in fourty days, and Wheat in sixty, which is very remarkable. The Customs paid there for the carrying out of the Gold and Silver, and upon all other Commodities, is very severe. Silk, that comes out of Persia, pays four and twenty Crowns for a [Page 9] Camel's Load, which is eight hundred Pounds. For in the mountainous Coun­tries a Camel's Load is no more; but in the plain and even Countries they make'em carry above ten hundred weight. A Load of Indian Calicutts pays a hundred Crowns; but the Loads of Linnen are much heavier than those of Silk. As for other Commodities, they pay Six per Cent. according to their value.

From this Stage the Caravan sets forward to a Fortress call'd Hassan Kala, where you must pay half a Piaster for every Camel's or Horses Load going from Erzerom to Erivan, but returning you pay but half as much.

Leaving this Fortress, you must go and lodge at a Bridge near to a Village which is call'd Choban-Cupri. Over this Bridge, which is the fairest in the whole Journey, you cross two Rivers which there meet, one is the Kars, and the other is a Stream that falls from a Mountain call'd Binguiel, both which disburthen themselves into the Aras. The Caravan usually stays a day or two at this Bridge; because the Cara­van divides it self at this place, some continuing on the High-road, others taking the Road of Kars, as well to avoid fording the Aras several times, as the paying a great Duty upon the great Road, where they exact four Piasters upon every Camel's Load, and two upon every Horse-Load, whereas at Kars you are dis­miss'd for half so much.

I went Kars Road twice; but it is longer, and more troublesom than the other. As soon as you leave the Bridge, for the first four days you travel over woody Mountains, and very desert Countries, where you meet but with one Village; but coming near Kars the Country is more pleasant, and well manur'd; bearing all sorts of Grain.

Kars is in 78 Deg. 40 Min. of Longitude, and 42 Deg. 40 Min. of Latitude; in a very good Soil. The City is very large, but thinly peopl'd, though Provision be very plentiful and very cheap. But the Grand Signor always choosing that place to rendezvouz his Army, whenever he intended to recruit it, and to lodge his People there which he sent to build Villages; the King of Persia has ruin'd all the Country, as he did at Sulfa, and in many other Frontier places, for nine or ten days journey together.

From Kars to Erivan the Caravan makes it nine days journey, and lyes where it can find most convenience, there being no certain Stages. The first days journey ends at a Monastery and a Village, the one no less deserted than the other. The next day you come to the Ruines of a great City, call'd Anikagaë, in the Armenian Language the City of Ani, which was the name of an Armenian King that was the Founder of it. By the Wall, on the East-side, runs a rapid Stream that falls from the Mountains of Mingrelia, and empties it self into the River of Kars. This City was very strongly situated; being plac'd in a Mersh, where are to be seen the Remains of two Causeys that only led to the Town. There are the Ruines of several Monasteries; among the rest two that are entire, suppos'd to be Royal Foundations. From thence to Erivan for two days journey, you meet with only two Villages; near the last of which you ride by the side of a Hill, whither when the Caravan passes by, the People bring Horses from several Parts to be sold. The Great Road from the Bridge, where the Caravan parts, lyes thus:

Two Leagues from the Bridge, on the right hand toward the South, lyes a great Mountain which the People of the Country call Mingol. In this Mountain there are abundance of Springs, and from one side of it falls Euphrates, from the other side the River of Kars, which empties it self into the Aras fourteen or fifteen Leagues on this side Erivan. The Aras, which the Ancients call'd Araxes, falls from other Mountains Eastward of Mingol, which after many windings through the Upper Armenia, where it receives many other Rivers that swell its Streams; it discharges it self into the Caspian Sea, two days journey from Shamaki, upon the Frontiers of the ancient Medes.

The whole Country is inter-cut by the Rivers Aras and Kars, and several other Streams that fall into them, inhabited by very few, but what are Christians; those few Mahumetans that live among them being so superstitious, that they will not drink the Water of any of those Rivers, nor wash in them; believing them impure and defil'd by the use which the Christians make of them. They have their particular Wells and Cisterns by themselves, which they will not suffer a Christian to come near.

[Page 10] Comasour is the first Village where you lodge after you leave the Bridge of Choban-Kupri, going to Erivan.

Halicarcara is the next Stage to Comasour: this is a great Town also inhabited by Christians, but the Houses are built all under-ground like Caves. Coming thither the seventh of March 1655, the Snow was so deep that there was no travelling, so that we were forc'd to stay there eight days. But the Customer of Erzerom under­standing in what a bad condition we were, came in person with five hundred Horse to make way for us, and sent for the Country-people round about to clear away the Snow. But it was not so much out Kindness to us, as for his own Interest. For a new Officer being to succeed him upon the 22^d of March, and our Caravan being very numerous, he would have lost above a hundred thousand Crowns, had we not come to Erzerom before that day. Many of the Passengers were almost blinded by continual looking upon the Snow, the colour whereof very much dims the Sight: for preservation whereof the Travellers are wont to wear black Cypress Hoods, made on purpose, over their Faces. Others wear furr'd Bonnets, fring'd about with Goats-hair, which being long, falls over their Eyes, and does altogether as well as the Hood.

The Caravan is usually twelve days upon the Road, from Erzerom to Erivan. Leaving Halicarcara, you ford the Aras three times, and cross it the next day again: for it winds exceedingly. A League and a half from the place where you ford it the fourth time, upon the top of a high Mountain stands a Fortress call'd Kaguisgan, which is the last place which the Turks possess on that side. The Cu­stomers that live there come to the Caravan to take their Toll, which is four Piasters for every Camel loaden, and two for every Horse loaden. In the year 1655 the Caravan lodging about a League from the Fortress of Kaguisgan, the Mountains adjoyning being inhabited by Christian Armeniaus, there came to us a poor Bishop attended by fifteen or sixteen persons, among which there were certain Priests, who brought us Bread, Fowl, and Fruit, desiring the Charity of the Merchants, who recompenc'd them to their satisfaction. About four or five Months after, this Bishop had one of his Eyes struck out by a Janisary. That wicked Fellow came to the Town where the Bishop liv'd, and lighting upon the Bishop, ask'd him for Money, which because the Bishop had none to give him, in a rage he stabb'd him im the Eye with his Dagger. Complaint was made to the Aga, who 'tis thought would have punish'd the Offender, but he fled, and left the Bishop without remedy of satis­faction.

From the last place where we encamp'd near the Aras, we went and lodg'd the next day upon the same River, in the sight of a Village not above a quarter of a League. The next day we cross'd the River that runs from Kars, and parts Turkie from Persia. The next day we stop'd upon the Banks of Aras, half a League from a little Town; and this is the last time you see this River which you are constrain'd to pass so often.

Leaving Aras, we came to lodge in a Plain, in sight of a Town which is not far distant. The next day the Caravan lyes in the Field, and the next day it comes to a place where there are three Churches, whence it is but half a days journey from Erivan.

CHAP. III. A Continuation of the Road from Constantinople to Ispahan, from the Borders of Persia to Erivan.

THE first Place worthy Observation, entring into Persia thorough Armenia, is that which they call the Three Churches, three Leagues from Erivan; which Three Churches, are three Monasteries distant one from the other. The biggest and the fairest is the Residence of the Patri­arch of the Armenians. There is another to the South of that, about a Musket-shot distant, and another a quarter of a League from it toward the East, which is a [Page 11] Nunnery for Virgins. The Armenians call this place Egmiasin, or the Only Daugh­ter, which is the Name of the chief Church. You may find in their Chronicles, That it began to be Built about three hundred Years after Christ, and that the Walls being rais'd to a good height, the Devil came in the Night and pull'd down what they built up in the Day; which he did for several Years: but that one Night Christ himself appear'd, and that from that time the Devil surceas'd to molest them any more; so that they finish'd the Church. It is dedicated to St. Gregory, whom the Armenians have in very great veneration. And there is a Table of Stone, whereupon, according to their Chronicles, Christ rested when he appear'd to St. Gregory. They that go into the Church, kiss this Stone with a very solemn Devotion.

The Second is built in honour of a Princess that came with forty Virgins of Qua­lity to visit St. Gregory. This Lady an Armenian King caus'd to be thrown into a Well full of Serpents; but she receiv'd no harm. For she liv'd therein 14 Years by a great Miracle, and from that time to this, the Serpents that breed thereabouts never did any harm. That Idolatrous King had a design to have enjoy'd that Princess, who was very handsom, and all her Companions; but they overcame him by their Virtue: who thereupon, seeing he could not have his Will, put them all to Death.

The Custom of all the Armenians, as well those that come out of Persia, as those that travel into Persia, is to perform their Devotions at these Three Churches; and the Caravan stops usually five or six days, during which time they Confess, and receive Absolution from the Patriarch.

The Patriarch has under him forty seven Archbishops, and every Archbishop has under him four or five Suffragans, with whom he lives in a Convent, where there are several Monks under their Jurisdiction. So soon as they have said their Mass, which is generally done an Hour after Day, they all go to work, and to dig and delve for their living. The Revenue of the Patriarch is 600000 Crowns or there­abouts: for all the Armenian Christians that are above fifteen Years of age, ought to pay him yearly five Sous. However there are many that do not pay him, by reason of their poverty. Yet their defect is suppli'd by the rich, who sometimes pay him two or three Crowns a Head. But this Money does not stay in the Pa­triach's Pocket: nay he is sometimes behind-hand; for he is engag'd to relieve the poor Armenians, who have not wherewithal to pay the Carage, which is an Annual Tribute that they owe to the Mahometan Princes, to whom they are subject: Other­wise necessity would force them to become Mahometans; and they, their Wives and Children would be liable to be sold, which the Grand Patriarch labours all he can to prevent. Every Archbishop sends him out of his Diocess what is necessary to be rais'd for that intent. So that the Patriarch does but only receive it with one Hand, and pay it with the other; making no Profit to himself of a Revenue which he has out of 400000 Villages, which the Archbishop of St. Stephen's affirm'd to me to be under his Jurisdiction.

As I return'd from Persia in the Year 1655, I came to the Three Churches about the end of February; the Caravan stay'd there eleven Days, as well by reason of the great Snows that stop'd up the Ways, as for that the Armenians resolv'd to keep their Carnival there, and after that to perform their Devotions. The next day I went to visit the Patriarch, who was sitting cross-leg'd upon a Mat. There were four Arch­bishops, and nine Bishops sitting about him in the same posture, among whom there was one that spake very good Italian. I stay'd with him three Hours; and while we were discoursing together, in came one of the Monks of the Convent, who had not spoken to any person whatsoever in Two and twenty Years, by reason of a Penance that was impos'd upon him. Never did Man appear so meager and de­formed; but the Patriarch sent for him, and by his Authority commanded him to break Silence, which he did, by speaking at the same Instant.

The Saturday before Shrove-Sunday the Patriarch invited all the Caravan, as well Masters as Servants, to hear Mass the next day, and then to dine at the Covent. Mass being concluded, the People were brought into a long Gallery, about 15 or 20 Foot broad, there being a Table on both sides, made of several Stones, and Benches next the Walls. At the upper end of the Gallery stands a Table four Foot square, over which is a vaulted Roof sustain'd with four Pillars, which serves [Page 12] for a Canopy: in the midst whereof is a Chair set for the Patriarch, who from thence has a full view of both sides the Gallery; with two other Chairs of each hand, for two Archbishops: the other Archbishops, Monks, and Guests sate at the long Tables. The Meat which they brought us was several sorts of Pilaw, and several Dishes of Fish, among the rest excellent Trouts. The Pilaw was brought in forty wide Plates, so well fill'd and so large, that they were every one as much as a Man could carry. They were all set down upon the Ground before the Patriarch; who then Pray'd and gave Thanks. Then six Bishops with Ladles took out the Meat out of the great Platters, and putting it into lesser, serv'd both the Tables. Every one had also his earthen Pot of Wine, which was very good, and was fill'd again when it was empty. The Patriarch and the two Archbishops eat nothing but two Eggs, and a few raw Herbs; no more did the other Archbishops that sate at the Table.

At the end of the Feast, a Bishop comes with a Paper and Pen and Ink in his Hand, and asks of every one what he pleases to Subscribe for the Benefit of the Church; then every one proposing, according to his Devotion, the Bishop writes down the Names of the Persons, and the Sum which they mention; which he comes and gathers the next day. There are some rich Merchants that will give two Tomans, but the meanest Servant will give an Or. The Bishop having done writing, the Table was clear'd, and then they brought us Melons and other Fruits. In a short while after the Bells rung to Evening Service, and the People went to Church.

After Evening Service the Patriarch sent for me to behold a Combat of Bufalo's, of which there are great store in that Country, some serving to Till their Ground; while the Female ones yield store of Milk, of which they make Butter and Cheese, and which they mingle with all sorts of other Milk: There are some of these female Beasts that will give two and twenty Pints of Milk a day.

They brought us into a wide Enclosure, to behold the Sport, wherein there were eight Bufalo's. To provoke them one against another, they shew them a Red Cloth, which puts them into such a Rage, that there were two that dy'd with the stroke of their Horns upon the place, and there were none of the rest which were not very much lam'd. The Sport being at an end, they bring a great quantity of Wood, which they pile together on purpose to set it on Fire. When the Wood was heap'd in as big a Pile as they intended, one of the Archbishops presented a Taper of white Wax to all the Company, both Masters and Servants, who every one agreed with him what they should give the next day for their Tapers. The Tapers being lighted, the Patriarch with a Stick like a Bishop's Crosier, march'd before, singing an Hymn, attended by all the Persons both Ecclesiastical and Secular, till they had in that manner walk'd three times about the Pile. When the Pile came to be lighted, there was great striving who should have the Honour. One of the Merchants offer'd a quantity of Oyl, for Lamps for the Church; another out did him, and a third proffer'd more than he; and the Honour of Lighting the Pile was given to him that offer'd most. Immediately upon that every one put out his Taper: For they esteem it a most precious business; believing that the lighting of one of those Tapers in a Sterm, and throwing it into the Sea, is a present Charm against Shipwrack. For say they, The Virgin Mary, forty days after she was brought to Bed, went to Jerusalem with Joseph and her Son; and going into the Temple met old Simeon, who taking the Child in his Arms, began to sing the Song, Lord now let thy Servant, &c. the Song being ended, all the People began to cry that Christ was born, and to publish it about the City. Now in regard it was Night, every one ran out with Torches in their Hands, and some made Fires before their Doors, where Christ was to pass along. This Festival among the Armenians is like that of Candlemas-day; and they call it in their Language, Ter en Areche? Where is the Lord? The Armenians, Masters and Servants, drank all Night to make an end of their Carnival, while the Patriarch was busie in dressing up the Church with its gayest Ornaments.

I could not believe there had been so much Riches in the Christian Churches under the Power of the Mahumetans. It is not a hundred Years since this Patriarchal Church was in a much meaner Condition: But since the great Sha-Abas put the Armenians upon Traffick, they have very much enrich'd themselves: For as they got great Gains; so they made great Vows, and gave largely to the Church: [Page]

[Page 13] wherein there are now as rich Ornaments as in any Church of Christendom. The Choir of the Church was hung round with a Venetian Tissue of Gold. The Pavement also of the Choir and the Body of the Church, together with the Steps to the Altar, were spread with rich Tapestry. For they all put off their Shooes before they go into the Church; nor do the Armenians kneel as in Europe, but stand all the while upright. When they hear Mass, they sit after the Mode of the Country, but when the Lessons are reading they stand up. All the Service-time their Heads are cover'd, unless at the Elevation of the Host, for then they take off their Bonnets, and kiss the Earth three times. There was upon the Altar a Cross, with six Candlesticks of Gold; and upon the Steps to the Altar four Candlesticks of Silver five Foot high. After they had sung several Hymns, the Patriarch seated himself in a Chair cover'd with Silk Tapestry, four Archbishops sitting with their Backs to a Pillar at his right hand. The Service was solemnly perform'd by an Archbishop, with two Bishops on each side of him. After the Archbishop had made certain Prayers, he took the Book wherein he had read the Gospel and gave it the Patriarch, the Archbishops, Bishops, and all the People to Kiss. On the one side of the Cover of that Book there are two Relicks enchas'd, which are cover'd with Crystal, which was the side of the Book that was given to be Kiss'd. The Ceremony being ended, many went to Kiss the Patriarch's Hand, and so retir'd.

Ten Leagues from Erivan, toward the North, appears a great Lake, wherein there is an Iland, upon which is built a very fair Covent. The Monks that live there, live so austere a Life, that they never eat Fish or Flesh above four times a Year: neither do they speak one to another, but upon those four Days. The rest of the Year they feed only upon Herbs, which they gather out of the Garden: for say they, it is not Fasting, to eat either Butter or Oyl. The Bread which they eat is brought from the neighbouring Villages: and the Iland is replenish'd with all sorts of excellent Fruits.

On the one side of the Lake nearer to Erivan is a large Plain, wherein there are six Monasteries. One of which is entirely hewn out of the Rock, with the Pillars that sustain it, being seated in a very hard Rock. The Armenians call that Church Kickart in their Language, and the Turks in theirs Guieurghieche, that is, See and away. In this Church, according to the Traditions of the Armenians, is kept the Lance wherewith the Side of Christ was pierc'd; the Figure whereof I caus'd to be drawn upon the Place. The Armenians have this Lance in great Veneration, saying, that it was brought thither by St. Matthew.

Five Leagues from Erivan, towards the South-East begins the Mountain Ararat; which will be always famous for being the resting-place of Noah's Ark. Half a League from that Mountain, where the Plain begins to grow level, stands a Church upon a little Hillock, close by which are several Pits like Wells. They report that it was into one of these Wells that Cerda, an Armenian King, caus'd St. Gregory to be thrown, because he would not Worship his false Gods. Between this Church and Erivan are to be seen the Ruines of the Ancient Artaxate, the Seat of the Kings of Armenia, which demonstrate that it has been a great City: besides, there appear the Ruines of a fair Palace.

Erivan lyes in 64 Degrees, 20 Minutes of Longitude; 41 Degrees, 15 Mi­nutes of Latitude; in a most plentiful Country of all things necessary for Humane Life, but especially abounding in good Wine. It is one of the best Provinces of all Persia, and yields the King a very large Revenue, as well by reason of the goodness of the Soil, as for being the great Thoroughfare of the Caravans. The yearly Revenue of the Governour only, otherwise call'd the Kan of Erivan, amounts to above 20000 Tomans, which make 840000 Livres. This City lying upon the Frontiers of both Empires, has been taken and retaken by the Turks and Persians, several times. By which means the old City being ruin'd, they have built a new one, 800 Paces on this side, upon a Rock, at the foot whereof, upon the West-side runs a rapid Stream: it is call'd by the Name of Sangui-Cija, and in many places it is deep and full of Rocks. You cross it, over a fair Bridge of three Arches, in which are built little Chambers, where the Kan retires in the heat of the day. It is full of Fish, especially Trouts, which nevertheless are dear enough. This River comes from a Lake called Gigaguni, about 25 Leagues from Erivan, toward the [Page 14] North, and falls into the Aras, that runs not above three Leagues off to the South. Though this City be fortified to the West by the River, yet it is never the stronger, by reason of the Hills on the other side which command it: and in regard it is built upon a Rock, the Moats of the Fort are not above three or four Foot deep. In some places the City is secur'd with a double Wall with several Towers; but the Walls being only of Earth, as are most of the Houses, the Rain does more mis­chief, than the Cannon would do. That part of Erivan to the North-West, is a kind of Suburb, but far better inhabited than the City: for there live all the Mer­chants and Artificers, together with the Christian Armenians, who have four Churches there, with a Monastery. And of late years they have built also a very fair Inn in the same Quarter. In the City there only lives the Kan, with the Military Officers and Souldiers; the Kan's Lodgings lying upon the River. The Governour is a Person of great Power, and has always sufficient Forces about him to guard the Frontiers. The Summer being very hot at Erivan, he lyes in Tents upon the Mountains during the Heat. When a Caravan arrives, he is forc'd to give the King advice thereof: and if any Ambassador come thither, he is bound to maintain him at his own Expence, and to cause him to be conducted to the Territories of the next Governour, who is oblig'd to do the same. So that Ambassadors are not bound to be at any Expences in the Territories of the King of Persia. Four Leagues from the City are high Mountains, where the Natives that inhabit the hot and Sun-burnt Countries toward Chaldea, come twenty thousand together, to seek out good Pasturage for their Cattel, and about the end of Autumn return again into their own Country. I cannot compare this Mountainous Tract, whether for its Valleys and Rivers, or for the nature of the Soil, to any Part that I have seen, better than to that portion of Switzerland, which is call'd the Country of Vaux: and there is a Tradition among the Natives, That certain People that inhabited between the Alpes and Mount Jura, and which compos'd a Squadron of Alexander's Army, having serv'd him in his Conquests, seated themselves in this part of Armenia, which they found so like their own Country. From Tocat to Tauris the Inhabitants are for the most part Christians. Which large Tract of Ground being that which the Ancients call'd the Province of Armenia, 'tis no wonder to meet with fifty Arme­nians for one Mahometan. There are many ancient Armenian Families in Erivan, which is their native Country; but they are ill us'd by the Governours, who being far distant from the Court, do what they please. This City not being far remote from the Province from whence the Silks come, is the place where all the Buyers and Sellers resort. But neither in Erivan, nor in any other part of Persia are the Merchants put to open their Bales at the Custom-Houses, as in Turkie. They only pay certain Duties toward securing the Highways; which Duties they call Rade­ries, and those that gather them Raders.

The Kans or Governours of Provinces in Persia are civil to Strangers, especially to those that they like, or that shew them any thing of Curiosity. The first time that I went into Persia, I took a young Watch-maker with me, and coming to Erivan, I carried him to the Kan who was then Governour. It was at a time when Watches were very rare in Persia; and the Kan, understanding what Trade the Young Man was of, told us he was the first Watch-maker that ever had been in Persia: Thereupon he brought the Young Man a Watch to mend, and that he might have the pleasure of seeing him work, he lodg'd us in a Chamber next his own, and made us drink with him every day; for he was a true Toper, and compell'd us to drink with him from four in the Afternoon 'till near Midnight, in a place which he had made on purpose, in his Garden, to take off his Glasses.

This was he, that having deliver'd Erivan to Sultan Amurat, went along with him to Constantinople, and became his Favourite for teaching him to Drink. Amurat left a Garrison of 22000 Men in the City; but Sha-Sefi the Persian King begirt it presently with a strong Army; and planting himself securely under one of the Hills that command the City, he batter'd it incessantly with eight Pieces of Cannon: the fourth day he made a Breach, and though he had the repute of a Coward, he was the first at the Assault, and took the City: and because they would not yield at his Summons, he put all the Garrison to the Sword. For which Amurat, was quit with Sha-Sefi afterwards, though not in so noble a way; for entring a Victor into Bagdat, he put all the Persians to the Sword, after he had given them his Word to the contrary, and promis'd to spare their Lives.

[Page] [Page]

• [Page 15]A. The Town and Fort.
• B. The Subusbs, inhabited by the Armenian Christians.
• C. The Church.
• D. The Convent.
• E. The River of Sangui-cija.
• F. The Stone-Bridge.
• G. The Highway for the Caravans.
• H. The Fort which Sha-Sefi built to batter the City.
• I. The River that falls from the Mountain.
• K. The Highway to Tauris.
• L. The Way to Teflis the chief City of Georgia; and the Way to the Mountain where the Kan of Erivan goes twice a Summer to drink.
• M. The Market-places, for Sale of Goods.

CHAP. IV. A Continuation of the same Road from Erivan to Tauris.

IT usually takes up ten days journey for the Caravan to go between Erivan and Tauris; and Nacksivan is almost in the mid-way between both. The first days journey you travel thorough large Plains sow'd with Rice, and water'd with several Rivulets. The next day you continue to travel through Plains of the same nature, in sight of the Mountain Ararat, which is full of Mona­steries, leaving it upon the South. The Armenians call this Mountain Mesesoufar, The Mountain of the Ark; because the Ark of Noah rested upon it. It is as it were unfasten'd from the other Mountains of Armenia, and from the half-way to the top, it is continually cover'd with Snow. It is higher than any of the neighbouring Mountains; and in my first Travels I saw it for five days journey together. So soon as the Armenians discover it, they kiss the Earth, and lifting up their Eyes to Heaven, say their Prayers. Yet you are to take notice, that the Mountain is hid in Clouds for two or three Months together. In the Plains that you cross in this second days journey, to the Southward a League and a half from the High­way, is to be seen a Work of great Art; being the Ruines of a Magnificent Castle, where the Kings of Armenia were wont to reside in the time of their Hunting Divertisements; more especially when they continu'd their Sports at the Mallard and Heron. The next day we lodg'd near to a Village where there was good Water, which constrain'd the Caravan to stay there; there being none to be met with for ten Leagues farther. The next day you must travel one by one through the Pass of a Mountain, and cross a large River nam'd Arpa-sou, which falls into Aras. It is fordable when it is low; but when the Snow melts and swells the Stream, you must go a League out of your way to the Southward to cross it, over a Bridge of Stone. From thence you go to lodge near a Village call'd Kalifakiend, where you are forc'd to fetch your Water a good way off. The first days journey is through a Plain, at the end whereof you meet with an Inn, call'd Kara-bagler, standing upon a Rivulet; which was finish'd in 1664. The Head of this Rivulet springs three or four Leagues higher toward the North; and half a League below Kara-bagler, the Water congeals and petrifies; and of those Stones is the Inn built. The Stone is very slight; and when they have need of it, they make Trenches all along the Stream, and fill them with the same Water, which in eight or ten Months turns into Stone. The Water is very sweet, and has no bad tast; yet the Country-men thereabouts will neither drink it, nor water their Grounds with it. The Arme­nians say, that Sem the Son of Noah caus'd the Rock to be hollow'd, out of which this River issues; which four or five Leagues from its Head, and two from the Inn, falls into Aras. From this Inn to Naksivan is but a small Journey. Naksivan, [Page 16] according to the Opinion of the Armenians, is the most ancient City of the World; built about three Leagues from the Mountain upon which the Ark of Noah rested: from whence it also takes its Name; for Nak in the Armenian Tongue signifies a Ship, and Sivan, resting or reposing. 'Twas a great City, now wholly ruin'd by the Army of Sultan Amurath. There are the Remains of several rare Mosquees, which the Turks have destroy'd; for the Turks and Persians destroy one anothers Mosquees as fast as they fall into one anothers possession. This City is very ancient, and the Armenians report that it was in this place where Noah went to live, when he went out of the Ark. They say further, that he was Buried here; and that his Wife has a Tomb at Marante upon the Road to Tauris. There runs a little River by Naksivan, the Water whereof is very good; the Spring whereof is not far distant from the Head of the River of Karabagler. The Armenians drove a great Trade in Silk formerly in this Town, which is now very much abated: however, there is a Kan which has the Command there. All the Country between Erivan and Tauris was wholly destroy'd by Sha-Abas King of Persia, and the first of that Name; to the end that the Armies of the Turks, not meeting with any subsistance, might perish of themselves. To this purpose, he sent all the Inhabitants of Zulfa and the Parts adjoyning into Persia, Old and Young, Fathers, Mothers, and Chil­dren, with which he planted new Colonies in several parts of his Kingdom. He sent above 27000 Families of Armenians into Guilan, whence the Silks come; and where the harshness of the Climate kill'd abundance of those poor People, that were accustom'd to a milder Air. The most considerable were sent to Ispahan, where the King put them upon the Trade of Silk, and lent them Commodities, for which they paid upon the return of their Markets, which suddenly set the Ar­menians upon their Feet again. These are they that built the City of Zulfa, which is only separated from Ispahan by the River of Senderou, calling it New Zulfa, to distinguish it from the old City, which was the Habitation of their Ancestors. A third part of the People were dispers'd into other Villages between Ispahan and Sciras. But the old People dying, the young ones generally turn Mahumetans: so that now you can hardly meet with two Christian Armenians in all those fair Plains, which their Fathers were sent to manure.

Among the Ruines of Naksivan appear the Ruines of a great Mosquee, which was one of the most stately Buildings in the World: which some say was built in memory of Noah's Burying-place. As you depart out of the City, near to the River that runs by it, appears a Tower, which is an excellent piece of Architecture: It is compos'd of four Duomo's joyn'd together, which support a kind of Pyramid, that seems to be fram'd of twelve little Towers; but toward the middle it changes its figure, and lessening like a Spire, ends in a Point. The Building is all of Brick, but as well the out-side as the in-side is over-spread with a kind of Varnish of Parget, wrought into Flowers, like Emboss'd Work. 'Tis thought to have been an Edifice set up by Temur-leng, when he had Conquer'd Persia.

Between Naksivan and Zulfa, on each side, as well to the North as to the South, there are ten Covents of Christian Armenians, distant about two or three Leagues one from the other. They acknowledge the Pope, and are govern'd by certain Religious Dominicans of their own Nation. And to keep up their Religion, they send from time to time, to Rome, certain Children born in the Country, to learn the Latin and Italian Tongues, and other necessary Sciences. It is thought there are in this Quarter above six thousand Souls that absolutely follow the Doctrine of the Church of Rome; only that they sing the Office and the Mass in the Armenian Tongue, that all the People may hear and understand them. The Archbishop, being chosen, is sent to Rome to be confirm'd. He resides at a great Town, which is one of the most lovely places in all Asia; the Wine and Fruits that grow there are very delicate, besides the abundance of all other things necessary for Humane Life. Every Covent stands near a great Village: the chiefest where I have been twice, is Aba­rener, the second Abraghonnex, the third Kerna, the fourth Soletak, the fifth Kouchkachen, the sixth Giaouk, the seventh Chiabonnez, the eighth Araghouche, the ninth Kauzuk, the tenth Kisouk, which lyes upon the Frontiers of Curdistan or Assyria. Here it is, that the Armenians believe St. Rartholomew and St. Matthew to have been Martyr'd, of which they pretend to shew some Relicks at this day. Many Mahometans came thither out of Devotion, especially such as are troubl'd [Page]

[Page 17] with Fevers. There are two or three of those Convents; where they civilly entertain such Christians as come out of Europe; though the Monks, there, are very poor. They also live very austere Lives, feeding upon nothing but Herbs. That which makes them so poor, is the often change of Tyrannical Governours, whom they are oblig'd to present with large Gifts. But in regard they cannot give much, those Governours have no kidness for them; for which reason, being instigated by those other Armenians who are able to oblige them, they use them so severely that they are often forc'd to complain to the King; which I have many times seen done at Ispahan.

A League and a half from the chief of these Covents there is a high Mountain, separated from all the rest, which rises like a Sugar-loaf, as doth the Pike of Tena­riff. At the foot of this Mountain are certain Springs, that have the virtue to heal those that are bit by Serpents; in so much that Serpents carry'd to that place will dye immediately.

When the Caravan is ready to set out from Naksivan for Zulfa, which is not above a days journey from thence, the principal Armenians usually go out of the way to the Covent of St. Stephen, which lyes to the South.

Now the Road from Naksivan to St. Stephen's lyes first to a great Village call'd Ecclisia, where live the richest Armenians, that drive a great Trade in Silk, and have built them a very fair Church.

Two Leagues from Ecclisia you must cross the River Aras in a Ferry-Boat, being as it were squeez'd between two Mountains in that place: Once I went over upon the Ice. About two Musket-shots from thence, you must cross, over a Bridge, another River that falls into the Aras. From the foot of the Bridge you begin to ascend a little Hill, at the top whereof you meet with a great Village, call'd Shambé, all the Inhabitants whereof, as well Men as Women, grow Mad at 18 years of age; but it is such a Madness that is not mischievous. Some believe it to be the Punishment of Heaven, for that their Forefathers in these Mountains persecuted St. Bartholomew and St. Matthew.

From hence to St. Stephen's it is not above a League, but the Way is very trouble­fom. St. Stephen's is a Covent built not above 30 Years ago. It stands upon the Mountains, in a barren place, and of difficult access. But the reason why the Armenians chose that place before any other, is because that St. Bartholomew and St. Matthew retir'd thither in the time of their Persecution. They add, that St. Matthew did a Miracle in that place: for that there being no Water there before, he only strook his Stick upon the Ground, and presently there arose a Spring. This Spring is about half a quarter of a League from the Covent, under a Vault with a good Door to it, to keep the Water from being wasted. The Armenians go to visit this Spring in great Devotion, having laid the Water into the Covent with Pipes. They also say, that in this place they found several Relicks which St. Bartholomew and St. Matthew left there, to which they add a great many others; among the rest a Cross, made of the Basin wherein Christ wash'd his Disciples Feet: In the middle of the Cross is a white Stone, which, as they report, if you lay upon a Sick person, will turn black if the person be likely to dye; and recover its former whiteness after the death of the party.

A Jaw-Bone of St. Stephen the Martyr.

The Scull of St. Matthew.

A Bone of the Neck, and a Bone of the Finger of St. John Baptist.

A Hand of St. Gregory, who was the Disciple of Dionysius the Areopagite.

A little Box, wherein they keep a great number of pieces of Bones, which they believe to be the Relicks of the Seventy Two Disciples.

The Church is built in the form of a Cross, as are all the Churches of the Arme­nians; in the middle whereof rises a fair Duomo, round about which stand the Twelve Apostles. Both the Church and Covent are of Free-stone, and though the whole Edifice be not very big, there has been abundance of Gold and Silver wasted upon the Walls: many Armenian Families have been very much endamag'd thereby; for the Women were so devout, that unknown to their Husbands they sold their Jewels, and their very Cloaths, to defray the Expences of Building.

The first time that I was at St. Stephen's, in the company of some Armenians, two Bishops, attended by several other Monks, came out to meet us, and led us [Page 18] into a great Hall, where we were very well treated. For it is the custom of the Armenians, a little before Meals to present their Guests a large Cup of Aqua-vitae, with Sweet meats of all sorts, besides Citron and Orange-peels candy'd, in seven or eight Porcelan-dishes, laid in a great China-Basin. This is a little Prelude to exoite the Appetite; for the Armenians, both Men and Women, will empty great Cups of Aqua-vitae. After Dinner they go to Church, where they sing certain Hymns: when you return, there are a sufficient number of Mattresses or Quilts to lye upon; for they use no other sort of Beds over all Asia: only at Night you spread a Carpet upon a Quilt, and shut the Door. We saw not the Archbishop all that Evening, only at Church.

About Midnight all the Bells rang, and every body rose to go to Church. I believe it was more than usual, because it was Shrovetide; for both the Office and the Missa were both concluded by break of day. Between eight and nine in the Morning the Cloth was laid; before which time we saw abundance of the neigbouring Country People, who brought Wine, Fruits, and other Provisions, and presented all to the Archbishop.

While we were at Breakfast news came that a certain Bishop was dead, in his return to the Three Churches; whither he was sent by the Patriarch to gather certain Duties due from the Villages. Immediately the Archbishop rising from the Table with all his Assistants, and having made a Prayer for the Dead, sent a Bishop and six Monks to fetch the Corps; who returning a little after Midnight, the Body was presently laid in the Church upon a Carpet spread upon the Ground, with the Face turn'd toward the Altar. In the mean time, a great number of Wax-candles were lighted, and all the rest of the Night two Monks watch'd by turns to Pray for the Dead. Early in the Morning the Archbishop, the Bishops and all in Religious Orders, said the Office for the Dead, which lasted half an Hour; and at the end of the Mass they brought the Corps to the Altar, so that they made the Feet of the Corps to touch it. Having so done, they took off the Linnen Cloth that cover'd his Head, at which time the Archbishop anointed him in six places with the Holy Oyl, saying certain Prayers every time. Then they cover'd him again, and said other Prayers which lasted half an Hour. These Ceremonies perform'd, they carry'd the Corps out of the Church with Crosses and Banners, and every one a Taper in his Hand. As the Corps pass'd by, one of the Bishops put a Paper in his right Hand, containing these Words, I came from the Father, and I return to the Father. Being brought to the Grave, upon a little Mountain near the Covent, and set down, they said other Prayers which lasted a quarter of an Hour. In the mean time a Bishop going down into the Grave, took away all the Stones and made the place smooth, after which the Corps was let down wrapt in a large Linnen Sheet. Then the Bishop, according to their custom, rais'd his Head a little higher than his Body, turning his Face to the East. Which being done, the Archbishop and Assistants took every one a handful of Earth, which the Archbishop blest, and giving it to the Bishop, he strew'd it over the Body. Then the Bishop coming out again, the Grave was fill'd up.

From St. Stephen's there is a descent for a League together to Aras, by the side whereof you are to keep along till you come to Zulfa, where you come into the high Road again. There is another way quite over the Mountain, which is the nearer way by a League, but 'tis very troublesom and toylsom, and therefore the less frequented.

But to return to the High-Road from Naksivan; half a League from Naksivan you meet with a River which falls into Anas, which is to be cross'd over a Stone-Bridge of 12 Arches, though there be but little Water, unless it be when the Snow melts, or the Rains fall. In a Meadow, next the Bridge, where we lodg'd one time that I travell'd that way, there is a Spring of lukewarm Water, which will loosen the Bellies of them that drink it. At this Bridge it is that the Toll-gatherer comes and takes his Duties, when the Caravan stays not at Naksivan. You must pay ten Abassi's for every Camel's Loading, or nine Livres, which is for the se­curing the Highways. These Duties are demanded in many places of Persia with­out searching the Packs. The Governours also in their Provinces are made to answer for every Robbery committed: which makes it so safe travelling in Persia, that you need not keep with the Caravan, unless you will your self.

[Page 19] From this Bridge to Zulfa is but one days journey; which Town being altogether ruin'd, shews the reason wherefore the Caravan lodges upon the Bank of the River five hundred Paces on this side.

Zulfa, the ancient Habitation of the Armenians which Sha-Abas carried into Persia, is a Town squeez'd between two Mountains, through which the Aras runs; leaving but little Land on either side. It carries no Boats till about two Leagues below, (for upward it will hardly bear a piece of Timber) and in regard the Country grows low and extends it self into Plains, there is no fear of Rocks, the course of the Stream being very quiet. There was a fair Stone-Bridge, which Sha-Abas caus'd to be broken down; when he wholly destroy'd the Town, that it might be no harbour for the Turks. Neither by the Ruines, nor by its Situation, doth it appear to have been a City of any ancient Beauty; the Stones were clapt unskilfully together without Morter, so that the Houses were more like Caves than Houses. The North-West side was most inhabited, there being nothing on the other side worth taking notice of. The Lands about Zulfa being very fertil, there are certain Armenian Families return'd, who live very quietly. Cogia Nazar, one of the chief Armenians that went out of Zulfa, growing rich by Trade, and being in great reputation with Sha-Abas, and Sha-Sefi his Successor, who made him Kelomer, or Chief Judge of the Armenian Nation, built two great Inns, for the Honour of his Country, in Zulfa, upon each side of the River one. He spent above an hundred thousand Crowns, but dying left two remarkable Pieces of Work unfinish'd.

Half a League on this side Zulfa, before you cross a Torrent that falls into Aras, you may take your choice of two ways to go to Tauris. The one upon the right hand, leading to the South-East, which is the ordinary Road; the other upon the left hand, toward the North-East, which we took eight or ten in company together on horseback, the last time I went to Ispahan. We left the Caravan, that takes the great Road, and never goes the other way, because it is full of Rocks and Stones that spoil the hooss of the Camels. However I was willing to see a new Country, which I shall describe before I come to the great Road.

From the Torrent where we left the Caravan, we went forward, and lay at a Village not above a League and a half off.

The next day, after we had kept along by the Banks of the Aras for five or six Hours, we came to Astabat, which lyes a League from the River, where we staid above two Days to divert our selves. This is but a little City, but a very neat one; where there are four Inns, and every House has its Fountain. The great plenty of Water makes the City very fruitful in all things; more especially in good Wine. This is the only Country in the World that produces the Ronas, for which there is a vast utterance all over Persia and India. The Ronas is a Root that grows in the Earth like Liquorice, and is not much bigger. The use of it is to dye Red, and this is that Red which gives that beautiful tincture to all the Calicuts that come out of the Mogul's Country. Though the Roots which are pull'd out of the Earth are very long, yet they cut them into pieces not above as long as a Man's Hand, for the better accommodation of Carriage. It is a wonderful thing to behold at Ormus whole Caravans laden with this Ronas, whith they Ship off from thence to the Indies.

The Root is full of Juyce, and yields a very high Tincture; for I remember that an Indian Vessel that was laden with it, being cast away in the Road of Ormus, where the Bags of Ronas floated, the Sea look'd of a red colour for several days.

Departing from Astabat, it behov'd us to provide our selves with Straw and Barley for our Horses, understanding that we should meet with none all that days journey. From thence we travell'd upon a descent for an hour together to the River Aras, which we cross'd in a Boat; and all the rest of the day we travel'd through Mountains; over Torrents and Stones. That Evening we lay upon the Bank of a small Stream.

The day following, after we had travel'd through a spacious Valley for two or three hours, we ascended a high Mountain, at the top whereof we met with two or three pitiful Houses, where we stopt that day.

The next, which was the fifth after, we left the Caravan, we travel'd upon a [Page 20] descent for two or three hours, till we came to a great Village neatly situated, where there grows excellent Fruit. There we repos'd for an hour or two; and from thence we came to a great Stone-Bridge on a River where there is no Water but when the Rains fall. It falls into the Lake Roumi; but the Water of the River is so sowr and ill-tasted, especially when it is low, that it is not to be drunk. About a quarter of a League from the Bridge are three long Stones set in the Ground like Pillars: the Natives say that they were plac'd there for a Monument, in the same place where Darius the Son of Hystaspes was elected King by the cunning of the Gentleman of his Horse: from whence to Tauris is but half a League. The Moun­tains of the Medes which we cross'd in this Road, and those which run along toward the ancient Parthians, are the most fertil in all Persia. They bear Corn and Fruit in abundance; for upon the high Mountains there are fair Plains sow'd with Wheat, which are extraordinary fertil. The Springs which rise there, and Rains which fall give a fresher beauty and a higher tast to what grows there, more than in any other part of Persia that wants Water; and the products of those Fields are of a higher price.

Now for the great Road. The Caravan having cross'd the Stream where we left it, lodges the next Night upon the Banks of Aras, over which it ferries the next Mor­ning. It does not go thorough Zulfa, though it be so near it; because that on the other side of the City there are three Leagues of Way very bad and unfre­quented. For which reason you must leave Zulfa on the right hand, which is not much out of the way. After two hours travel you go by a Bridge which is call'd Sugiac; after which you come upon Heaths encompass'd with high Rocks. All this days journey you meet with no Water, but only one little Fountain, and the Water is so bad that the Beasts will hardly drink it.

The day following you travel through an even Country, but very barren: where you meet with nothing but a forlorn Inn; though it be a place where Cost has been bestow'd, and built all of Free-stone, that was fetch'd a great way off. The next Stage is Marante, famous for the Burying-place of Noah's Wife. The Town is not very big; resembling rather a Thicket than a City: but the situation is very pleasant, in the middle of a fertil Plain adorn'd with several well peopl'd Villages. This Plain does not extend above a League round about Marante, the Country beyond it being all barren. However it is not altogether unprofitable: for being a continual Heath, it affords feeding for the Camels, which are there bred for the Caravans. Which is the reason that there are so many Camel-Masters at Sugiac and Marante, who furnish great part of the Road. At Marante you must pay thirteen Abassi's, or four Crowns for every Camel's Load, for the security of the Road.

Leaving Marante, you lodge the next night a League from Sophiana in a bushy Plain, where the Water is worth nothing; after you have travell'd a mix'd Country, barren enough, where you meet with but one Inn in a Valley: but it is a very fair one. Sophiana is an indifferent large City, which you cannot see till you come within it, by reason of the great number of Trees planted in the Streets and round about it, which makes it look rather like a Forest than a City.

The next day, which is usually the tenth days journey from Erivan; the Caravan, having cross'd fair, large and fertil Plains, arrives at Tauris. Those Plains are water'd with several Streams that fall from the Median Mountains; but the Water is not all of the same goodness, for there is some which cannot be drunk.

In the mid-way between Sophiana and Tauris, lyes a Hill, from whence you have a prospect over those Plains, upon which the Army of Sultan Amurath Encamp'd, when he besieg'd Tauris. The news coming to Sha-Sefi King of Persia, that he had burnt it, and was marching further into the Country with a hundred thousand Men, Let him come, said he, without any disturbance, I know how to make the Turks pay for their Invasion without any great trouble. They were then not above fifteen days march from Ispahan, when Sha-Sefi turn'd the course of all the Streams both before and behind, which only run from certain Springs, and are brought in Cutts or Chanels into the Inland-parts of Persia, where there are no Rivers: By which means the whole Army of the Turks perish'd for want of Water in those vast un­water'd Countries where they had engag'd themselves too far.

Tauris lyes in 83 Degrees, 30 Minutes of Longitude; and 40 Degrees, 15 Mi­nutes of Latitude, in an open place where there is not a Tree to be seen; and [Page 21] environ'd with Mountains on every side, but only upon the West. The furthest Mountain is not above a League from the City; but there is one which almost touches it, being only separated from it by the River. 'Tis a good Country, and fruitful in Corn; there is good Pasturage, and great store of Pulse. Some think that Tauris was the ancient Ecbatane, the Metropolis of the Empire of the Medes. It is at this day a great City and well peopl'd, as being the Mart for Turkie, Muscovy, the Indies, and Persia. There are an infinite number of Merchants, and vast quantities of all sorts of Merchandize: particularly of Silk, which is brought out of the Province of Guilan, and other places. There is also a great Trade for Horses, which are handsom and cheap. Wine, Aqua-vitae, and indeed all sorts of Provisions are cheap enough; and Money trolls about in that place more than in any other part of Asia. Many Armenian Families have got great Estates there by Trade, and understand it better than the Persians. A little River, the Water whereof is very good, runs through the middle of Tauris; it's call'd Schein­kaie, over which there are three Bridges to cross from one part of the City to the other.

The most part of the Buildings in Tauris are of Bricks bak'd in the Sun; the Houses not being above one or two Stories high at most. The tops of the Houses are terrass'd; the Roofs within are vaulted, and plaister'd with Earth mix'd with chopt Straw, which they whiten afterwards with Lime. In the year 1638 the City was almost ruin'd by Sultan Amurath; but it is almost all rebuilt again. There are in it Bazars, or Market-houses, which are well built, and many Inns very commodious, two Stories high. The fairest is that of Mirza-Sadé, Governour of the Province, who caus'd it to be built with a Market-house adjoyning, to which he has added a Mosquee and a Colledge, with good Revenues.

The great Trade of Tauris renders it renown'd over all Asia: for it has a con­tinual Traffick with Turks, Arabians, Georgians, Mengrelians, Persians, Indians, Muscovites, and Tartars. The Bazars or Market-houses, which are cover'd, are always full of Goods: for there are some which are peculiar to the Handicraft-Trades; the most part whereof are Smiths, such as make Saws, Axes, Files, and Steels to strike Fire, with Tobacco-stoppers belonging to them. Some there are that make Pad-locks: for the Eastern People fasten their Doors only with wooden Bolts. There are also Turners, that furnish the neighbouring Parts with Spinning-Wheels and Cradles: and some Goldsmiths, that make trifles of Silver. But there is abundance of Silk-weavers that are Artists, and work very neatly; and indeed there are more of those than of any other Trade. Here it is that they dress the greatest part of the Shagrin-Skins that are vended so plentifully all over Persia; for there are none unless it be the Country-people, but wear Boots or Shooes of Shagrin-Leather. This Leather is made either of the Hides of Horses, Asses, or Mules, and only of the hinder part of the Hide: but the Asses Hide has the best grain.

There are to be seen at Tauris, Ruines of the stately Edifices round about the great Piazza, and the neighbouring Parts: they have also let run to ruine four or five Mosquees of a prodigious height and bigness. The most magnificent and the biggest stands as you go out of the Town, in the Road to Ispahan. The Persians will not come near it, but look upon it as defil'd, and a Mosquee of He­reticks, in regard it was built by the Sounnis, or the followers of Omar. 'Tis a vast Structure fairly built, the Front whereof is fifty Paces broad, with an ascent of eight Steps. It is lin'd without with Brick-work varnish'd with different Co­lours; and adorn'd within with very fair Painting A Pantique, and abundance of Cifers and Arabian Letters in Gold and Azure. Upon two sides of the Fore-front are rear'd two Minarets or Towers very high, but not very wide, yet with Stairs to go up to the top. They are lin'd with varnish'd Brick-work, which is the usual Ornament of the Persian Buildings: and at the top stand two Cupola's, form'd like the Turbants which the Persians wear. The Gate of the Mosquee is not above four Foot wide, cut out of a great transparent white Stone, four and twenty Foot high, and twelve broad. Entring at the Door of the Mosquee, you come into a spacious Duomo, thirty six Paces in Diameter, rais'd upon twelve Pillars within, and sup­ported by sixteen without, which Pillars are very high, and six Foot square. Below there is a Balustrade or Rails that run round about the Building; with Doors to go [Page 22] from one side to the other: and the Foot of every Pillar, which is of white Marble, is hollow'd into little Niches equal with the Floor, where the People put their Shooes, when they go farther to their Devotions. The inside of the Walls is varnish'd in Squares of several Colours, with Flowers, Cifers, and Arabian Letters intermix'd, and wrought in Emboss'd-work, so well painted, so well gilded, that it seems to be but one piece of Work, cut out with a pair of Sciffars. From this Duomo you pass to another lesser, but more beautiful in its kind. The lower part is of transparent white Stone, of the same nature with that in the Front, cut in great Panes like a Door that never opens. This Duomo has no Pillars, but eight Foot high, it is all of white Marble, where are to be seen Stones of a prodigious length and bredth: The inside of the Vault is a violet Enamel, painted with all sorts of Flowers in Flat-work, but the outside of both the Duomo's is cover'd with vernish'd Brick-work, and Flowers emboss'd A la Moresque. Upon the first the Flowers are black upon green; upon the second, white Stars upon black: which diversity of Colours is very pleasing to the Eye.

Near the Door out of which you enter into the lesser Duomo, on the left hand, stands a Chair of Walnut-tree curiously carv'd, and fasten'd to the Wall; it stands upon a Platform rais'd six steps high, without any Canopy. On the right hand stands another Chair of the same Wood, and an exquisite piece of Workmanship; with a kind of State over it of the same Wood, fasten'd to the Wall. There is a little Rail about it; and the Platform is four steps high. On the South-side of the Mosquee there are two white transparent Stones, which when the Sun shines upon them look red: And sometimes after the Sun is set, you may read at those Stones by the reflexion of the Sun-beams.

Just against the Mosquee on the other side is another Front, which is the only Remain of a ruin'd Building. It was the abode of the Sheck-Iman, or the Chief Priest. There had been large Baths which belonging to it, but they are all destroy'd; some others there were of less note, which are not lookt after.

In the great Piazza of Tauris and in the parts adjoyning, stands a fair Mosquee, a Colledge, and a Castle, which fall to decay; these Buildings being forsaken; by reason they were made use of by the Sounni's, which were followers of Omar. Near the same Church is a ruin'd Church of the Armenians, whether they say St. Helena sent the true Cross. There is another Mosquee, which was formerly a Church dedicated to St. John Baptist, where they say one of his Hands was preserv'd a long time.

The Capuchins have a very convenient House at Tauris; for Mirza-Ibrahim Go­vernour of the Province, whose credit is equal to the Kan of Tauris, which is the chiefest Command in Persia, favours him very much with his protection. This Governour has made himself very considerable at Court, and very much respected by the King for his indefatigable pains, and his extraordinary agility in augmenting the King's Revenue: having found out such ways for that purpose as never entred into the thoughts of any that preceded him in the same Employment. He is very curious to learn all the Noble Sciences, which is a quality very rare among the Persians: He also takes great delight in the Mathematicks and Philosophy, discoursing often with Gabriel de Chinon, Governour of the Capuchins Covent in Tauris. But the great desire which Mirza-Ibrahim had to have his two Sons taught by the said Gabriel, was the chief motive that made him so favourable to that Covent. He bought the Friers a place to build their House, and liberally furnish'd them for the Expence of the Work.

When the Sun sets and rises, there are a certain Company of People who are oblig'd to make a hideous noise with Drums and Trumpets in the Meidan, or great Piazza of the City. They stand upon one side of the Piazza in a Gallery somewhat rais'd, which is a Custom observ'd in all the Cities under the Persian Government.

As you go out of Tauris upon the North-side, there is a Mountain close by, there being only the River between it. The name of it is Einali-Zeinali, and for­merly there stood upon the top of it a fair Hermitage of the Armenians, which the Mahometans have converted into a Mosquee. At the bottom of the Mountain stands a Fortress and a Mosquee, which they let go to ruine, because they were built by the Ottomans. A little farther upon the brink of the Precipice stands a Mona­stery, near to which are two Caves, where are certain Sepulchers and Marble Pillars [Page 23] lying along upon the Ground. There are also in the Mosquee certain Tombs of the ancient Kings of the Medes, the Remains whereof shew that the Work was very Excellent.

Upon the Road from Tauris to Ispahan, about half a League from the utmost Gardens, between several knaps of the Mountain which you leave upon the right hand, upon the top of the highest of all, where there never was any Water, and where it is impossible to bring any, appears a Bridge fifty Paces long, the Arches whereof are very fair ones, but it falls to decay. It was a Mollah that built it, out of what design no person knew: nor can you come to Tauris upon that side, but you must see that Bridge, because there is no other way, there being nothing but Water and Precipices on either hand. Afterwards he confess'd that he built it out of meer Vanity, knowing that Sha-Abas, the first of that Name was to come to Tauris. The King indeed came some time after, and seeing an unprofitable Bridge upon the top of a Mountain, he demanded who built it, and what was his design. To whom the Mollah return'd this Answer, Sir, said he, I built that Bridge, that when your Majesty came to Tauris, you might inform your self from the mouth of him that built it. By which it appear'd, that the Mollah had no other ambition than to oblige the King to speak to him.

A League from Tauris to the West, in the middle of a Field stands a great Brick Tower, call'd Kanhazun. It is about fifty Paces in Diameter, and though it be half ruin'd, yet it is very high. It seems to have been the Dungeon of some Castle, there being very high Walls round about it; which though they be but of Earth, nevertheless appear to be very ancient. It is not certainly known who built this Tower, but the Arabian Letters upon the Gate afford us some reason to conclude that it was a Mahometan Structure. In the year 1651 there happen'd a terrible Earthquake in Tauris and the parts thereabout, by which many Houses were over­turn'd, and this Tower then cleaving from the top to the bottom, a good part of it fell down, and fill'd up the hollow within-side.

Besides the little River that runs by Tauris, there is another bigger to be cross'd, about half a League from the City, over which there is a very fair Stone-Bridge. Near to it stands a Sepulcher, cover'd with a little Duomo, where the Persians say that the Sister of Iman-Riza lyes interr'd; and they have it in great veneration. The River that runs under the Bridge comes from the Mountains of the North, and falls into the Lake Roumi, thirteen or fourteen Leagues from Tauris. They call it Aggi­sou, or Bitter-water; for the Water is very bad, and without any Fish. The Lake which is fifteen Leagues in compass, has the same quality, the Water being blackish: the Fish that happen into it out of other Rivers that fall into it, presently become blind, and in a short while are found dead by the Shoar. This Lake takes its name from a Province and a little City, which are both call'd Roumi, being not above eleven Leagues from Tauris.

In the middle of the Lake, upon the way that leads to a little City call'd Toko­riam, there is a little Hill that rises insensibly, the ascent whereof is very smooth, and out of it there rise many little Springs. The farther they run from the Head, the wider grow the Streams: and the Earth which they water is of two distinct qualities: the first Earth that is dig'd serves to make Lime: the next to that is a hollow spungy Stone, that is good for nothing: but under that again is a white transparent Stone, which you may see through as through Glass, which being smooth and polish'd serves to adorn the Houses. This Stone is only a congelation of the Waters of these Streams; for sometimes you shall meet with creeping Animals con­geal'd within. The Governour of the Province sent one piece to Sha-Abas, as a great Present, wherein there was a Lizard congeal'd of a Foot long. He that pre­sented it to the Governour had twenty Tomans, or three hundred Crowns; after­wards I offer'd a thousand for the same Piece. In some parts of the Province of Mazandran, where the Euxin Sea stretches farthest into the Persian Territories, these congeal'd Stones are to be found, but not so frequently as near the Lake Roumi, and you shall many times find pieces of Wood and Worms congeal'd in the Stones. I brought away a Camels-loading of these Stones, and left them at Marseilles; till I could find what use to put them to.

CHAP. V. A Continuation of the Constantinopolitan Road from Tauris to Ispahan, through Ardevil and Casbin.

FRom Tauris to Ispahan the Caravan makes it generally twenty-four days journey.

The first day you cross over dry Mountains, and four Leagues from Tauris you meet with one of the fairest Inns in Persia. This Inn Sha-Sefi caus'd to be built; it is very convenient, and large enough to lodge a hundred persons with their Horses. Over all Persia, especially from Tauris to Ispahan, and from thence to Ormus; you meet every day with Inns at an equal distance.

The next day you descend a Mountain, in very rugged and narrow way. At the foot of this Mountain there are two ways for the Merchants to choose that will go to Ispahan. They that will go the ordinary road and the direct way through Kom and Kachan, leave a Lake upon the left hand that parts the two Roads; and they that will go through Ardevil and Casbin, two other good Cities, leave the Lake upon the right hand, and coast along by the side of the Mountain. From Tauris to Ardevil it is not above a dozen Leagues; and having pass'd the Lake, the Country is very good: Which is the Road I intend to describe first.

Ardevil being at so small a distance from Tauris, lyes almost in the same Degrees and Minutes of Longitude and Latitude. This City is famous, as well for being the first Market of Silks that come from Guilan, from which it is not far off; as also for the Sepulcher of Sha-Sefi, the first of that Name, King of Persia. The avenues to it are very pleasant, being as it were Alleys of great Trees, which are call'd Tchinar, planted in a streight line, at a due distance. It is of a moderate bigness, and seated in a lovely opening of the Mountains. The next to the City, which is call'd Sevalan, is the highest in all Media. The Houses of Ardevil are built of Earth, as are most of the Houses in the Cities of Persia: but the Streets are very uneven, dirty, and narrow. There is but one which is handsom, at the end whereof is built the Armenian Church. A little River runs through the middle of the City, which descending from the neighbouring Mountains runs from East to West. It is by Industry brought into many Cutts to water the Gardens, and in many places there are very fair Trees planted, which are very delightful to the Sight. The Meydan or Market-place is a very great one; more long than round; where stands a very fine Inn, upon one side, which the Kan caus'd to be built. There are several others in several parts of the City, which have the Prospect over several lovely Gar­dens, especially that which belongs to the King; to which you go through a long and stately Walk of four rows of Trees, at the end whereof stands a large Gate that gives you entrance. Though the Country about Ardevil be proper to bear Vines, yet there are none thereabouts; nor is there any Wine made till about four or five Leagues from the City. The Armenians that dwell in the City are very well stor'd with it; though there be no place in all Persia, where there is so much Caution to be us'd, either as to the Importing it, or the Drinking it; both which must be done very privately: Which proceeds from the Mahometan Superstition; the Persians having so peculiar a Veneration for that place, that they believe it a Sin to suffer Wine to be publickly drank therein.

The People come in Pilgrimage from all parts of Persia to the Sepucher of Sha-Sefi; which together with the vast Trade of Silk, makes Ardevil one of the most considerable Cities of all Persia. There are several other Buildings added to the Mosquee wherein he lyes interr'd; the Entry whereof faces the Meydan, to which it is joyn'd upon the South-side with a large Portal. The Gate is chain'd with Chains fasten'd a-cross with great Rings; which if any Criminal Offender can but touch, and enter into the first Court, he is safe; for no person can apprehend him. This is a large Court, yet more in length than breadth, without the Wall whereof that looks upon the Market-place, several Shops are built for Merchants and Trades­men.

[Page 25] Out of this Court you pass into another which is less, and pav'd with broad Stones, with a Rivulet running through the middle. The Entry into it is through a Door, fortifi'd with Iron Chains like the former, and is made at a corner of the great Court upon the left hand. It brings you presently under a Portico, where there are fair Balconies rais'd after the fashion of the Country. Those Balconies are full of several People; either Pilgrims, or persons whose Crimes constrain them thither for Sanctuary. In that place you must leave your Stick and your Sword, before you go any farther; and give something besides to a Moullah, who is always attending there with Books.

In that second Court through which the Rivulet glides, on the one side are Baths, on the other Granaries for Rice and Corn; and upon the left hand, at the end of the same Court, there is a little Door which brings you to a place where the Royal Alms are distributed to the Poor, Morning and Evening; being just against the King's Kitchin. This Gate is cover'd with Plates of Silver; and in the Kitchin there are about thirty Ovens contriv'd in the Wall, with as many great Caldrons to dress Pilaw and other Food, as well for the Poor as for the Officers of the Mosquee. While these Alms are distributing, the Master-Cook, who commands all the rest, sets upon a Chair cover'd with Plates of Silver, and sees that every thing be done in order. He sees to the measuring out the Rice every day for the Kettles, and causes the Victuals to be divided in his own sight: For there is an excellent Oeco­nomy in the King's House.

At the end of the Portico beyond the first Court there are two Gates, one beyond another, both cover'd with Plates of Silver; between those two Gates on the right hand appears a little Mosquee, where are the Tombs of several Persian Princes of the Blood Royal. You must have a great care not to tread upon the Thresholds of the Gates; for it is a Crime not to be expiated without a severe Punishment. From hence through a little Ile, you come into the Body of the Church, richly hung with Tapestry, and set about with high Desks, where lye a great many Books, wherein the Moullahs, or Doctors of the Law read continually, having Stipends to Officiate in the Mosquee. At the end of the Body of the Mosquee, is a little Octagonal Monument, like the Choir of a Church, in the midst whereof stands the Monument of Sha-Sefi. It is only of Wood, but curiously carv'd and inlaid. It exceeds not the height of a Man of an ordinary stature, and seems like a great Chest, having four Apples of Gold set up at each corner. It is cover'd with a Crimson Satin purfl'd with Gold; and all the other Tombs that are by it, are cover'd with Silks as rich. As well in the Choir as in the Body of the Church, there are abun­dance of Lamps, some of Gold, some of Silver; but the biggest of all is of Silver, gilded and vermilion'd, and neatly engrav'd. There are also six great Branches of a curious sort of Wood, cover'd with Silver, with great Wax Candles in them, which are never lighted but at their great Festivals.

From the Duomo where stands the Tomb of Sha-Sefi, you go under a little Vault, which encloses another Monument of another King of Persia, whose Name I could not learn. It looks like another great Chest, curiously wrought, and cover'd with Satin. The Roof of the Mosquee is adorn'd within with a Painting of Gold and Azure, a la Moresque; on the outside, with a fair Varnish of several Colours, like the stately Mosquee at Tauris.

In the adjacent Parts round about Ardeüil are several Monuments worth a Man's sight, being very ancient; and some which are ruin'd, shew by what remains the care which they took to enrich them with curious Workmanship. A quarter of a League from the City stands a Mosquee, in which are the Tombs of the Father and Mother of Sha-Sefi. It is a fair Structure, with Gardens and Courts, in one of which there is a very clear Fountain where they keep Fish.

Ardeüil is not only famous, as I have said already, for the Royal Sepulchers which are in it, and for the Pilgrimages which have been made to it from all parts of Persia; but the numerous Caravans of Silk, which sometimes consist of eight or nine hundred Camels, add very much to its Grandeur. For being near to Guilan and Shamaqui, from whence those vast quantities of Silk come; and for that the Road from both those places, to Constantinople and Smyrna, lyes through this City, there is a continual confluence of Merchants, and all sorts of Merchandizes are here to be had as well as at Tauris.

[Page 26] From Ardeüil to Casbin you travel through a good Country; for every three or four Leagues you meet with little Rivers that fall from the Northern Mountains, and water the Earth. The Caravan is usually five days between Ardeüil and Arion, between Arion and Taron two, between Taron and Casbin two more. Half a League on this side Taron you must cross a great River over a stone Bridge, and half a League beyond you come to Kalkal.

Arion is a little City, Taron and Kalkal are two great Towns; and there are but these three places in all Persia where there grow any Olives, or that they make any Oyl. Leaving Kalkal, you travel over a Plain for three hours, at the end whereof is a Way which you cannot get over in less than four hours. The way is so bad that the Horses and Mules can hardly get up; but for the Camels, they must take the lower Road, which is also very tedious, and full of Stones which the Torrents tumble down, and it is three or four Leagues about. When you are up, the Country is level, and you have not above three Leagues to Casbin.

Casbin lyes in 87 Degrees and 30 Minutes of Longitude, and 36 Degrees and 15 Minutes of Latitude. It is a great City, the Houses whereof are low and ill built; except seven or eight, which are next to the King's Gardens. It has no Walls, and indeed the best half of the City is in Gardens. There are three Inns, with Market-places round about; one of the three being large and commodious. It is inhabited altogether by Mahometans; or if there be any Christians, they are very few.

The Soil about Casbin produces Pistaches. The Tree that bears them is never bigger than a Walnut-tree of ten or twelve years old. The great quantity of Pista­ches that are exported out of Persia come from Malavert, a little City twelve Leagues from Ispahan, toward the East. These are the best Pistaches in the World, and the Country being of a large extent, produces them in such abundance, that it furnishes all Persia and the Indies.

Leaving Casbin, you come to a little Village where there is but one Inn; and you travel that day six Leagues through Countries fertil enough, and well water'd.

The next day you travel through a good Country, and in nine or ten hours you come to Denghé. This is a great Village at the foot of a Hill, through which there runs a fair River. It abounds with excellent both White and Claret Wine, where the Travellers take care to replenish their Bottles. But generally they never lye here; being desirous to go a League farther, for a good Inn's sake, which makes it a handsom Stage.

At this Town of Denghé it is where the two Roads from Tauris to Ispahan meet: the first, through Ardeüil and Casbin, I have already describ'd. Hither also come the Caravans that go for the Indies through Meshéhed and Candahar, and where they leave Ispahan Road to take the left-hand Way, which carries them Eastward.

CHAP. VI. The ordinary Road from Tauris to Ispahan, through Zangan, Sultanie, and other places.

WE must now return again to the Lake six Leagues beyond Tauris, where they that will take the ordinary short way through Zan­gan and Sultanie, leave the left hand way of Ardeüil and Casbin. This Lake is usually full of large red Ducks, which are very good Meat.

From thence, after twelve or thirteen hours travel, in which time you meet with three Inns, you come to Karashima, a large Town in a deep Valley, that seems to be well manur'd. There is in it only a small Inn built of Earth, the Doors whereof are so low, that the People are forc'd to creep upon their knees to get in.

The next day you come to another large Village call'd Turcoma, where the Soil is fertil, though it be very cold. There are several Caravansera's built like a long [Page 27] Alley cover'd, which are only of Earth, the Men lying at one end; and the Horses at another.

The next day you travel over an uneven and desert Country, and in eight hours time you come to Miana, a little City situated in a Marsh, where you pay a Toll for Guarding the Highways. In this City is one of the fairest Inns in all Persia.

Two hours after you leave Miana, you must cross a River, over a fair Bridge which runs to decay; the Arches whereof are hollow within; it is built of Brick and Free-stone, being near as long as Pont neuf in Paris. This Bridge stands almost at the foot of a Mountain call'd Kaplenton. Sha-Abas caus'd all the way to be Pav'd, because the Land is so fat and sloughy, that when it thaws, or that the least Rain falls, it is impossible for the Caravan to pass. Besides, there are a sort of Camels in Persia, that when it comes to rain in a deep Soil, are not able to keep their Legs: nay through the weight of the Burthens which they carry, their very Quarters will rive from their Shoulders, and their Bellies will burst. So that before the way was pav'd, they were forc'd to spread Carpets in the most slippery ways where those Camels were to pass: which must be still done in some places, where the Pave­ment is worn away.

At the lower part of the descent toward Ispahan, upon the knap of a Hill which stands by it self, appears an old forsak'n Fortress: it is near the Highway, and a River, which falls into the Caspian Sea, after it has cross'd the Province of Guilan, where it is cut into several Channels. But generally the Corn and Fruits which grow in Persia by the help of Water forc'd into Channels, are of little esteem, and much cheaper than those that grow in the Provinces whose Fertility is not Arti­ficial. Moreover, that sort of forc'd Grain will not keep above a Year; and if you keep it longer, it breeds a Vermin that eats it. 'Tis the same thing if the Corn be grownd; and more than that, there breeds a Worm in the Flowr, that makes it so bitter that tis impossible to eat it.

On this side the Mountain Kaplenton, appear at a distance two others very high, one toward the North call'd Saveland, another toward the South call'd Sehar [...] there is a third, which cannot be seen in Ispahan-Road, being too far out of the way, near the City of Hamadan. These three Mountains are full of Springs, from whence most of the Streams do fall that water Persia: And the Persians do say, that formerly there were many more of these Springs, but that about a hundred Years ago several of them have been dry'd up, or otherwise no body can tell what is become of them.

There are several Villages near the Mountain that pay nothing to the King, but are oblig'd to send him a certain quantity of Rice and Butter, for the use of the Mosquee at Ardeüil. They have also one great Priviledge, That if a Man commits a Mur­ther, and flyes to any of these Villages, he cannot be apprehended, nor can the King himself punish him.

Leaving the River that runs at the foot of the Mountain Kaplenton, you come to a fair Inn call'd Tshamalava, built some years ago: and for thirteen hours after, travelling over a very barren Country, you meet with another Inn, which is call'd Sartcham, standing in a very desert place: which makes the Raders, that lye there to secure the Highways, very insolent, finding themselves so far from any Towns or Villages.

From Sartcham you come to a River, by the Banks whereof you travel a good while, till you come to an Inn which is call'd Digbé, near a large Village. The Structure is very handsom, the lower part being of Free-stone undulated with red and white, and very hard.

The next day you travel a very uneven Country, till you fall into a deep Valley, at the end whereof you meet with Zangan, a great Town and ill built. How­ever, it has a very fair Inn, which when I went last to Ispahan was so full, that I had like to have lain abroad in the Rain, but for the Courtesie of two Armenians. From Zangan you go, to an Inn, where you must pay the Duties due to the Kan of Sultanie.

Sultanie is a very large City, which you leave half a Mile from the Road, near to a Mountain. Formerly it had in it very beautiful Mosquees, as may be easily conjectur'd by the Ruines that remain. Many Christian Churches also were con­verted [Page 28] into Mosquees; and if you will beleive the Armenians, they will tell you, that there were in Sultanie near eight hundred Churches and Chappels.

Three Leagues from Sultanie stands an Inn, and a League farther a great Town call'd Ija, where there is another very commodious Inn, and most excellent Wine.

From thence you go to Habar, an ancient City and of a large extent, but very much ruin'd, inhabited by Armenians for the most part: Here, for the good Wines sake the Travellers stay to recruit their Bottles.

From Habar, after seven hours travel you come to a Village call'd Partin. From Zangan to Partin you reach in two days. It stands in a fertil Plain, where there are several other Villages. It is not above three Leagues broad, being enclos'd on each side, to the East and West, with a row of high Mountains.

Having pass'd this Plain, you come to a barren Country and ill inhabited, which lasts all the day, till you come to Sexava. You pass by the Ruines of a Village, where there are but two Houses standing, with the Tower of a Mosquee, which is very high and slender. Then you come to a Mud-wall'd-Inn, built some few years since; and near to that a Castle call'd Khiara, upon the peek of a Hill, but very ill built.

Sexava is a little City in a Soil that bears excellent Nuts. The Inns that are there, being built of Earth, and being but little, are very handsom and convenient, their number supplying the defect of their smalness.

From Sexava, after seven hours travel, you come to a great Inn, call'd Idgioup, which was formerly a nobler place than now it is, standing alone in a Field. Three Leagues from thence you meet with another spacious Inn, call'd Cochkeria; and four hours farther you come to the Inn Denghé, where the two Roads meet which I spake of in the foregoing Chapter.

From Denghé to Kom, are three days journey, over a barren, dry, and desert Country, where there is no Water but Cistem-water, except in some very few places, where it is very good. Four Leagues from Denghé is a fair Inn; and three Leagues farther stands another, about a Mile from a Village to the South, where there grows excellent good Wine, white and red. From this last Inn to Sava is not above three hours travel with the Caravan.

Sava is a good City in a fertil Plain, where there are several Villages. The greatest Trade of the Town is in little grey Lamb-skins, the curl whereof is very neat, of which they make Furrs. Two or three Leagues beyond Sava the Country is very well manur'd, and after you have forded a River half a League from the City, after two hours travel, you come to one of the fairest Inns in all Persia, which was finish'd when I went last to Ispahan. From thence to Kom it is about seven or eight hours journey, through a dry and sandy Road: but half a League on this side Kom the Land is very good and fruitful.

Kom is one of the great Cities of Persia, in a fat Country abounding in Rice. There grow also excellent Fruits, particularly large and excellent Granates. The Walls are only of Earth, with little Towers close one to another; and the Houses being only of Earth, are never the handsomer within-side. At the entry into the Town you must cross a River, over a stone Bridge, and then turning to the right hand over a fair Key, you come to an Inn very well built and very convenient.

That which is most remarkable in Kom is a large Mosquee, no less in veneration among the Persians, than the Mosquee of Ardeüil. There it is that you may see the Sepul­chers of Sha-Sefi and Sha-Abas the Second; as also the Tomb of Sidi-Fatima, the Daughter of Iman-Hoven, who was the Son of Haly and Fatima-Zuhra the Daughter of Mahomet. The great Gate of the Mosquee answers to a Piazza more long than broad, where stands an Inn and certain Shops, which without-side are somewhat beautiful. One of the sides of the Piazza is clos'd up with a low Wall, over which appears the Shore, and a River which you cross at the end of the Piazza. Over the great Portal of the Mosquee stands an Inscription, in Letters of Gold, in the Praise of Sha-Abas the Second. The first place that you enter into is a Court of more length than breadth, which may be term'd a Garden, in regard that on each side of the Alley in the middle, which is pav'd, there are several square Beds of Flowers; yellow Jasmin, and other Plants; which are rail'd in by a Rail that runs all the length of the Alley on each side. It is not an easie thing for the Christians to [Page 29] get in to this Court, especially such whose Habits and Aspect they do not like: But as I cloth'd and carry'd my self, I never was deny'd entrance into any place either in Persia or India.

In this first Court, on the left hand as you enter, are little Chambers, where they that receive the Alms which by the Foundation of the Mosquee are to be distributed every day, come and eat their proportion, and then go their ways. Those Chambers serve as an Asylum to those that cannot pay their Debts, as at the Mosquee of Ardeüil. Neither are these Priviledg'd places like ours, where they that retire must live at their own Charge: For in Persia they are fed at the Expence of the Mosquee; and being in that manner freed from Care, their Friends more easily bring their Creditors to Composition.

Out of the first Court you pass into a second, which is larger, and all pav'd; and from that into a third, which is square, and rais'd like a Terrass. You enter into it through a large Gate, at the end of an open Passage, where stand the Lodgings of the Moullah's.

Out of that Court by an ascent of Brickwork of ten or twelve Steps, you enter into a fair Court, which is also rais'd like a Terrass; in the midst whereof is a fair Fountain. It is continually fill'd by little Pipes of Water which run into it, and is empty'd by others that carry the Water into several parts of the whole Enclosure. There are some Buildings in this Court, but one of the sides of it is taken up with the Front of the Mosquee, which is no displeasing Structure. There are three large Gates belong to it, very well expanded, according to the mode of the Country; with a Brick-wall before, about the height of a Man, with Holes in it for Light, made like a Lozange. The Threshold of the middle Gate is cover'd with a plate of Silver; and between these three Gates and that of the Duomo, are several Doctors, that hold Books in their hands, and read perpetually.

This Mosquee is Octagonal, and at every angle is a small wooden Door of Walnut­tree, varnish'd with grey and yellow. The Tomb of Sidi-Fatima is at the farther part of the Mosquee, there being only room for one Man to pass between the Wall and the Tomb. It is encompass'd with a large Silver Grate, sixteen Foot square; the Bars whereof are round, and knob'd in those places where they cross each other; it is lighted by several Lamps of Gold and Silver: which altogether is very pleasing to the Eye. The inside of the Mosquee, to the elevation of the Angles that support the Duomo, is compos'd of square Tiles varnish'd over with divers Colours; and the Cupola of the Duomo, as also the Vault of the Portico of the Mosquee, is a Moresco piece of Painting in Or and Azure. Upon each side of the Mosquee, and near the side where the Tomb of Sidi-Fatima stands, appears a great Hall, where the Royal Alms are distributed to the Poor, which consist of Pilaw and other diet, very well drest. From this Tomb you turn to the left hand toward an Ascent, distant five and twenty or thirty Paces; and at the top of this Ascent is a Door, over which there an is In­scription in Honour of Sha-Abas the Second. The Door being open'd, shews you the place where the Body of that King reposes: and through another Door with a Grate in it, you may discover, under a small Duomo, the Tomb of Sha-Sefi his Father; which is cover'd with a Carpet of Cloth of Gold. They were conti­nually at work upon the Tomb of Sha-Abas, which they said, they would make very famous.

I had not been two hours in Kom, but a multitude of People ran by the Inn Gate, all in extraordinary hast. Asking what the matter was, they answer'd me, that it had been a day long design'd for the two Prophets to fight. Thereupon I went to the Piazza, which was so crowded, that I had much ado to get to see. In the first place a sufficient number of Tumblers and Puppet-players, divided into two Bands, kept the middle of the Piazza, and made a sufficient Ring for the Combat. Each Band held a Bull by the Horns, one of which they call'd Mahomet; and the other Haly: and whether it were by accident, or by the cunning of the Bull-Masters, after an obstinate Combat, wherein the Beasts foam'd again with heat and rage; Mahomet at length quit the Field, and yielded Haly the Victory. Then all the People shouted for joy, and all the Piazza was fill'd with the noise of Flutes and Hautboys; and every one coming as if it were to adore Haly, cry'd out, Behold the Works of God, that Haly has made! At length they bring the Bull Haly under a Gate, with his Head turn'd toward the People; where after they [Page 30] have rub'd him to refresh him, after a Combat so courageously maintain'd, every one sends him Presents, which are all the Tumblers profit. The Kan or Governour of Kom, who was present with a hundred Horses richly trap'd to behold the Sight, sent the Bull a Present of 50 Tomans, or 750 Crowns. They who accompany'd him, and the chief Inhabitants of Kom, gave him some a Garment, others a Girdle. Neither did the meanest of the People spare to send or carry him Fruits, or other things, according to their abilities.

The Kan was a Lord who was very civil, and there was no Stranger that did not commend his behaviour, in regard he was so obliging.

So soon as I came to the place, whether it was that he perceiv'd me with a Dutch­man that I had brought along from Constantinople, or whether any one had inform'd him that there were Strangers near him, he sent for us, and after he had ask'd us some Questions concerning the occasion of our Travelling, he sent for a Seat and caus'd us to sit down. Then he ask'd us whence we came, and what we did at Ispahan; to which when we had answer'd him, that we went to wait upon the King, he approv'd our Intention, complaining that we had not given him advice of our Arrival. In the Evening he sent us several Delicacies, among the rest, six fair Melons, and four Bottles of excellent Wine.

He appear'd to me so brave and generous a Person, that I was very much trou­bled afterwards for his being in dis-favour with the King, and his death, which ensu'd. For this Kan finding the Walls of the City, which were only of Earth, and the Bridge over the River to be out of repair, without writing to the King, of his own head, laid a slight Imposition upon every Basket of Fruit that was brought into the City. Now there are in all the Cities of Persia, persons who are hir'd to take an account every Week what the Commodities may be worth, and to take care that no more than such a Toll be laid upon any thing; which they tax among themselves, and when they have set the Rate, they cause it to be cry'd at the beginning of every Week. Sha-Sefi then reign'd, it being the year 1632. The King being inform'd by these people of the Impost which the Kan had set upon Fruit without his knowledge, was so enrag'd against him, that he caus'd him to be brought in Chains to Ispahan, where he us'd him with a strange severity. For at that time the Son of the Kan stood at the King's Elbow, it being his Office to give him his Pipe and his Tobacco, which is a very honourable Employment in Persia. When the Kan came, the King caus'd him to be carry'd to the Gate of the Palace, in the presence of all the People, and then commanded his Son to pull the Hair of his Father's Mustaches by the roots from his Skin. After that he commanded him to cut off his Nose and his Ears; after that to put out his Eyes, and lastly to cut off his Head. When he had done the Execution according to the King's pleasure, he commanded him to go and take possession of his Father's Government, and allowing him an experienc'd Old Man for his Lieutenant, he sent him to Kom with these words; If thou govern'st no better than this dead Dog has done, I will put thee to a more cruel death than this.

Leaving Kom, for four hours you travel over a fair Champain Country, after which you come to a fair Village with five or six Inns in it. Beyond that is nothing but Sand, till you come to a place call'd Abschirim, or Fresh-water, where there are three Inns at a distance from any Villages. From Abschirim to Cachan is six hours journey through a Corn Country, and stor'd with great Villages.

Cachan is a large City, well peopl'd, and furnish'd with all things necessary for humane subsistance: There is an old Wall about it which is faln down in many places, so that there is no need of seeking for Gates to get into the City. On that side which looks toward Ispahan the Soil is good, and produces great store of Fruit and Wine, which the Jews take care to make. It is reckon'd that there are in Cachan a thousand Families of Jews; in Ispahan about six hundred; but in Kom there are not above nine or ten. Not but that there are many Jews in Persia, but those that live in Ispahan, Cachan and Kom, boast themselves particularly of the Tribe of Judah.

There are an abundance of Silk-Weavers in Cachan that are very good Work­men, which make all the best purfl'd Sattins mix'd with Gold and Silver, that come out of Persia. There they also coyn Money, and make Copper-vessels, which they vend in great quantities at a good distance off. The Market-houses are very fair [Page 31] ones, and well vaulted, the Inns large and convenient: but there was one among the rest which was very magnificent, near the King's Gardens, at the entry of the City. As well the Inn as the Gardens were made by the order of Sha-Abas, the first of that Name, who was at a vast charge. The Inn is above a hundred Paces square, built of Brick two Stories high, containing twenty-six vaulted Chambers of a reasonable bigness. It was a Structure too fair to be so little regarded, as now it is, being much faln to decay. In the middle of the Court was a Fountain to receive Water, which is spoil'd. The Persians and Turks are of that bad humor, rather to build new Houses than to repair old Buildings. For which reason they have since built at Cachan four or five Inns, as fair and commodious as that of Sha-Abas. This Custom is grown to that height, that the Children are so far from taking care to repair the old Houses where their Parents liv'd, that they will not so much as live in them after their decease, covetous of the honour of building Houses for themselves.

Before we leave Cachan you must take notice, that as you travel from that City to Guilan you cannot avoid travelling thorough Plains for twelve hours together, which are all pure Salt; and there is nothing to be met with by the way, but one Cistern; nor can the Water which is in it be otherwise than very bad.

Leaving Cachan, you cross a Plain of three Leagues, after which you enter in among the Mountains, where you come to a very fair Inn of Brick. From thence you descend a pleasant Vale, where you travel a long time by the side of a Ri­ver, over a very narrow way. At the end of the Valley you meet a great Wall, which crosses it, and joyns the two Mountains together. This Wall is above a hundred Paces long, above thirty Foot thick, and fifty high. It was the Work of the Great Sha-Abas, whose design it was to stop the Waters that fall from the Mountain, and to make a Receptacle for Water in that place, to serve his occasions. At the foot of the Wall there is a Sluce, which being let down keeps in the Water; but is pull'd up to let out the Water over all the neighbouring Lands to the Plain of Cachan. From this Receptacle to Corou, is about two hours travel.

Corou is a very large Village, and well peopl'd, in a Soil environ'd with high Mountains, and planted with great store of Walnut-trees. The Houses consist but of one low Story, being built of Flint-stones; but the Inn therein is very fair and commodious. This Village consists but of one Street, but it is almost half a League long, and very troublesom in the Winter, by reason of a great River that runs through it, and the great quantity of Stones that lye in the way. All about this Village, as in several other places of Persia, there are a great number of Sha­cales; which are a kind of Foxes, that in the night time make an ugly noise; for if but one cry, all the rest will make answer, and set up a howling.

From Corou you must travel three Leagues between Mountains, after which you have but twelve Leagues to Ispahan. It is a continued Plain that extends it self beyond the City, and in many places the Soil is very good. At every three Leagues end you meet with Inns. The first is call'd Achaha-Agakamala; the second, which is the half-way between Corou and Ispahan, is call'd Michiacour. This place consists not only of one Inn, for there are many others, so that it resembles a large Vil­lage. From Michiacour you come to Aganura, another Inn, but ill built; and from Aganura, after you have travel'd three Leagues through a fat and fertil Country, you come to Ispahan.

CHAP. VII. Of the Road from Smyrna to Ispahan, through Natolia.

SMyrna is at this day for Trade, whether it be by Sea or Land, one of the most celebrated Cities of all the Levant, and the greatest Market for all sorts of Commodities which are transported out of Asia into Europe, or out of Europe into Asia. Hither all the Western Fleets are most regularly bound, that came formerly no farther than Ligorn, and from whence, at times most regularly appointed, the fairest Caravans set out.

This City lyes in 50 Degrees of Longitude; and 38 Degrees, 45 Minutes of Latitude; at the bottom of a Gulf in the Archipelago, which is seven Leagues in length, upon the right side of the Isthmus which begins to form the Peninsula of Clazomene, right against the Iland of Schio. It lyes in that part of the Lesser Asia, which the Greeks possess'd, under the Name of Iconium; at a distance almost equal, between Ephesus and Sardis; and was one of the seven Churches mention'd in the Revelation of St. John. It is at this day a great City, built like an Amphitheater, upon the descent of a Hill that looks toward the Summer-West. But it is neither so great, nor so beautiful as formerly it was, as may be easily conjectur'd by the Ruines of certain Edifices that remain upon that Hill, which from the middle to the top, where the ancient City stood, are altogether uninhabited. There are also to be seen the Walls of a fair Castle, and above that the Ruines of an Amphi­theater, where they say St. Polycarp was expos'd to fight with Lions. This Am­phitheater was not in the form of those other, which are usually round; for it con­tain'd but half a Circle, being left open to the Sea-side. The Turks have almost quite destroy'd it: making use of the Stones to build a Fort two Leagues from the City, upon the Gulf, where the passage is very narrow; which the Ships are forc'd to salute as they enter in, and to speak with when they sail out. Moreover, that they might not be put to send for Stones a-far off, they consulted whether they might not make use of the Stones of the Christians Monuments, as also of those of the Jews, which are near the Shore: But they took very few, whether out of kindness to the Tombs, or whether they did not think them so proper for use as the Stones of the Amphitheater. This Castle had not been long built, but upon an occasion very remarkable. In the last Wars of the Turks with the Venetians, the Ottoman Fleet having been beaten in the Archipelago, the Grand Signor resolv'd to re-fit another to Sea, and thereupon sent to all the parts of his Empire, where he knew any English or Holland Vessels usually were wont to ride, to solicit them to serve him for his Pay. More particularly he aim'd at those Vessels which were in Smyrna, where there were generally more than in any other Port. But the Captains, who rejected his Proposition of fighting against the Venetians, believing that he would put some force upon them, suddenly hois'd Sail and got away; it being at a time when he could not keep them in, having no Castle then built to command them. The Grand Visier nettl'd at the refusal of the Captains, as an affront done to his Master, and to see that the Ships could come in and go out, without any let or molestation, bethought himself (to the end he might keep them for the future under subjection) of building a Fort upon the Gulf, in such a part where the Vessels must necessarily touch; where now there lye great Cannons level with the Water, which no Vessel can escape. Ever since the Convoys will not come to Smyrna, as they were wont to do, but lye out at Sea, out of the reach of the Fort.

Near to the Sea are yet to be seen some Remains of a Church, two sides whereof seem to have been distinguish'd into Chappels by little Walls, which are yet standing: But the Natives doubt whether they be the Ruines of a Church dedicated to St. Poly­carp, or of an ancient Temple of Janus.

Smyrna has been oftentimes ruin'd either by the Wars, or by the Earthquakes which often happen there. One time that I staid there, there happen'd one, which did not last long, but was very terrible. About sixty Paces from the Sea are to be discern'd the Ruines of great Walls two Foot under Water; and at the end of the [Page 33] City that looks toward the Winter-West, near to the Sea, appear the Ruines of a Mole, and certain ancient Magazins.

The English Merchants have dig'd among the Ruines of Smyrna, and have found great store of fair Statues, which they transported into their own Country. There are still found some or other every day; but when the Turks find any, they disfigure them presently. It may be conjectur'd, that there was one of a prodigious bigness, by a great Toe broken off of some one, and for which I paid sufficiently, out of the desire I had to buy it. I sent it to Paris to a Person of Quality, who look'd upon it as a great Curiosity. This Toe was of a hard white Stone, and well shap'd, and by the proportion whereof, the Figure could not be judg'd to be less than the Colossus of Rhodes.

Upon that side of the City where the Mole was, stands an old Castle of no defence, at the foot whereof the Sea makes a small Creek, where sometimes the Gallies of the Grand Signor lye.

The City is well peopl'd, containing no less than fourscore and ten thousand Souls. There are reckon'd no less than 60000 Turks, 15000 Greeks, 8000 Armenians, and about six or seven thousand Jews. As for the European Christians that Trade there, their number is very small. Every one of these Nations has the exercise of their Religion free to themselves. The Turks have in Smyrna fifteen Mosquees, the Jews seven Synagogues, the Armenians but one Church, the Greeks two, and the Latins three. There are also French Jesuits, and Italian Observantins, or a sort of Grey Franciscans. The Turks, the Greeks, the Armenians, and Jews live upon the Hill; but all the lower part toward the Sea is inhabited only by the European Christians, English, French, Hollanders, and Italians. The Greeks have also in the same Quar­ter an old Church, and some few small Houses, where Sea-men make merry.

All these different People of Europe are generally known in Smyrna by the Name of Franks. Every Nation has its Consul: and the French Consul has two Vice-Consuls under him; the one at Scalanova, the other at Chio.

Scalanova, or the New Port, is two Leagues beyond Ephesus, and being a good Haven, the Vessels were wont to unlade there; but the Turks would not permit it any longer. For that Place being the Dowry of the Grand Signor's Mother, the Vice-Consul agreed with the Governour of Scalanova, who permitted the Transpor­tation of Goods to Smyrna, which is not above three little days journey with the Caravan: A thing that spoil'd the Trade of the City, and injur'd the Officers of the Custom-House. Whereupon they Petition'd the Grand Signor that no more Goods might be unladed at Scalanova: so that now no more Vessels go thither, unless it be to take in fresh Victuals.

Chio is one of the greatest Ilands in the Archipelago, of which in another place: but the Vice-Consul that lives there has no more business there than the other at Scalanova; for the Vessels that touch there, neither unlade nor export any Goods from thence.

The Quarter of the Franks is only a long Street, one side whereof lyes upon the Sea; and as well for the Prospect, as for the convenience of Unlading Goods, the Houses upon the Sea are much dearer than those that lye upon the Hill.

The Soil about Smyrna is fertil, and abounds in all things necessary for humane support; but particularly in good Oyl and good Wine. There are Salt-Pits also half a League from the City, toward the North. The Sea affords great store of good Fish; Fowl is very cheap; and in a word, Smyrna is a place of great plenty. There is a lovely Walk all along the Sea to the Salt-Pits, where generally abundance of People walk in the Summer-time to take the fresh Air: and there being more liberty at Smyrna than in any other part of Turkie, there is no necessity of taking a Janisary along, when a man goes abroad. If a man loves Fowling, it is but taking a Boat, which lands him two or three Leagues from the City, toward the Mountains, where there is so much Game that he can never return empty. For the value of three Sous you may buy a red Partridge at Smyrna, and all other Fowl is proportionably cheap.

But if Smyrna have these great advantages, it has also its inconveniences: the Heats are very excessive in Summer, and indeed they would be insupportable, were it not for the Breezes that come off the Sea: these Breezes rise about ten in the Morning, and continue till the Evening; but if they fail, tis very bad for the [Page 34] Inhabitants. Besides, there hardly passes a Year but the City is infested with the Plague, which however is not so violent as in Christendom. The Turks neither fear it nor flie it, believing altogether in Predestination. Yet I believe, if the Inha­bitants of Smyrna would take care to drain away the standing Puddles that gather in the Winter about the City, they would not be so frequently molested with the Plague as they are. It is most rife in May, June, and July; but the malignant Fevers that succeed it in September and October are more to be fear'd, more People dying of them than of the Pestilence. In all my Travels I never was in Smyrna at these unfortunate Seasons. There is no Basha in that City; it being govern'd only by a Cady, who is not so severe to the Christians as in other places: For should he abuse his Office, Constantinople is at hand, where you may complain to the Mufti, and have relief; who for some good Present may be easily perswaded to depose the Cady, as being glad of the opportunity to displace him, and to put another in his room.

The Customs of Smyrna yield a great Revenue to the Grand Signor, being paid there very exactly. But were there a certain Rate put upon Commodities, the Merchants, who would otherwise be losers, would not study so many ways as they do to deceive the Customers: For those Customers lay what Price they please upon Commodities, valuing that at a thousand Crowns, which perhaps is not worth three hundred, being absolute Masters of the Rate. In my last Voyage to Smyrna, four Dutch Women that went thither in our Ship from their own Country, carry'd a-shoar under their Coats whatever I had of rich Merchandize: for the Turks have such a respect for that Sex, that they will not so much as offer to search them. If a man be tak'n in stealing Customs, there is no other punishment than to pay double.

The Trade of Smyrna is very great, and the principal Merchandizes which the Franks transport from thence, are raw Silk, which the Armenians bring out of Persia; Chamlet-yarn, and Chamlet or Goats-hair, which come from a little City call'd Angouri, fifteen or sixteen days journey from Smyrna; Cotton twisted; Skins and Cordovans of several colours; Calicuts, white and blew; great quantities of Wool for Mattresses, Tap'stries, quilted Coverlets, Soap, Rhubarb, Galls, Va­lanede, Scammony, and Opium; which four last Commodities are to be had in the Countries near to Smyrna, but not in great quantities. The Caravans come generally to this Town in the Months of February, June, and October; and depart again to the Countries from whence they came the same Months.

Ephesus not being above a day and a halfs journey from Smyrna, on Horse-back I took an opportunity to go thither. There were twelve of us that joyn'd together, Franks and Hollanders, who took three Janisaries along with us, and three Horses to carry our Provision.

We travel'd this little Journey in the Summer, and setting out of Smyrna about three of the Clock in the Afternoon, we rode through a Country part Plains, and part Hills, till we came to a great Viliage, where we sup'd.

After we had staid there three hours, we took Horse and travel'd till Midnight, to avoid the Heats: By the way we met with nine or ten Arches, very narrow; which we could not conjecture to be any thing else than the Ruines of some Aque­duct. From thence to Ephesus the way is very pleasant, through little Thickets watred with Rivulets.

A quarter of a League from Ephesus you meet with another Mosquee, which was formerly a Christian Church, built out of the Ruines of the Temple of Ephesus. This Mosquee stands enclos'd with Walls, and you must ascend up to it by two Ascents of twelve Steps a-piece, which bring you to a large Passage. From thence you enter into a large Cloyster, the Arches whereof are sustain'd with Marble Pillars of several co­lours, delicately wrought; and the lower part of the Gallery, which runs along three of the sides, that consists of great Squares of Stone. The Mosquee takes up the fourth side upon the left hand, the Gate being in the middle. The Mosquee it self is a wide Arch, supported by five Columns, all of most exquisite Work. There are four of Marble, and every one of a different Colour; but the fifth is a most rare piece, being of Porphyry, and the bigness of it makes it so much the more to be admir'd.

Ephesus does not look like a City, being so absolutely ruin'd, that there is not a House standing. It was built upon the descent of a Hill, in a situation not much [Page 35] unlike that of Smyrna, at the foot whereof runs a Rivulet, after it has made a thousand Maeanders in the Meadows. The City seems to have been very large, for you may discern upon the top of the Gates the compass of the Walls, with several square Towers, some of which are still standing: and there is one very remarkable, having two Chambers in it, one of which is a very fair one, the Walls and Pave­ment whereof are Marble.

The famous Temple of Diana stood at the bottom of the Hill, near one of the Gates of the City. There remains nothing of it at present but the great Portal, which is entire. The Vaults of the Arches under ground stand to this day, and are very large, but all full of nastiness. We went in with Lanthorns; and though you must creep to get in, by reason that the Wind has almost stopt up the Hole, by gathering the Dust about it, yet when you are in, you may go upright; for the Arches are high and fair, and little the worse. Near the Gate lye four or five Columns upon the Ground, and near to that a Fountain, ten Foot in Diameter, and two deep. The People of the Country report, that it was the Fountain wherein St. John Baptiz'd the Christians. For my part, as I have seen in the Indies several Pagods and Edifices much more beautiful than ever the Temple of Ephesus could be; I believe it rather to have been a Basin wherein the People put their Offerings, of which there are several such that belong to the Indian Pagods. The Greeks and Arme­menians, but above all the Franks, when they go to Ephesus always endeavour to break off some piece of that Basin, to carry it away with'em as a Relick: but the Stone is so hard, that they can break off but very little at a time.

Not far from the Temple appears another Gate of the City, over which there lyes a great Stone seven or eight Foot square, with an emboss'd Figure of Q. Curtius that Famous Roman, who threw himself, Horse and Arms into the gaping Earth, for the good of his Country. Many Merchants have offer'd Money for liberty to carry it away, but cannot obtain leave. About five hundred Paces from Ephesus is the Grotto which they call the Seven Sleepers, at the bottom of the same Hill where the City was built.

From Ephesus we went to Scalanova, which is not above two Leagues off. By that time you come half the way, the little River that runs by Ephesus falls into the Sea; in the mouth whereof there are always a great number of Greek Barks fishing for Sturgeon. Of the Spawn of this Fish they make Gaveare, and drive a great Trade in it in those Parts: then they take the most delicate and smallest Entrails of that Fish, which they fill with the same Spawn, of which they make a kind of a flat Pudding, as long as a Bisket, which they call Botargo. This they dry in the Smoak, and cut it afterwards in slices to eat. Upon this and the Cuttle-fish the Greeks generally feed during their Lent, which is very austere.

Scalanova is a Port of which I have already spoken, and thither we came by seven a Clock in the Evening; where the Governour of the Place, more civil than usually the Turks are accustom'd to be, made us very welcom.

In the Evening one of our Janizaries had quarrel'd with one of our Servants, who thereupon had beaten him; and therefore he complain'd to the Fellow's Ma­ster, who not giving him that satisfaction which he desir'd, thereupon the Turk study'd to be reveng'd upon the whole Company. For this reason, upon some pre­tence or other, he went before, the better to bring about his design. We staid till the Morning, and then departed early from Scalanova, and by Noon we came with good Stomachs to the Mosquee near Ephesus, where we had been the day before: And some of the Company thought it a very convenient place to dine in, i'the shade; thereupon we sent for our Provisions, with a Boracho of Wine, and ano­ther of Water, and fell to eating in the Passage into the Mosquee, not dreaming any harm. We had not been long at it, when we perceiv'd two or three Turks about two hundred Paces off, who came from a Village very near to the Mosquee. I knowing the custom of the Country better than they, told them, that they were certainly coming to pick a quarrel with us, and therefore caus'd them to hide the Bottle of Wine immediately; for it was then the Turks Ramezan, or Lent; during which time Wine is strictly forbidden. These two ill-contriv'd and ill-clad Fellows were the Janizaries of the place, whom the Cadi had sent, upon the information of our Janizary (who knowing we had eaten in the same place before, as indeed we had done, made no question but we would do so again) thinking to surprize us [Page 36] as we were drinking Wine, in a place which they esteem Sacred, and by conse­quence was among them accounted an act of Sacriledge. Christian Dogs, cry'd they, when they came near us, to eat and drink in a Mosquee, and profane a holy place as you do, at a time that renders the offence more criminal! No, cry'd I, answering for the rest, we drink no Wine, we drink nothing but Water, and you may tast it, said I to him that was the most busie; with that I caus'd a Glass to be pour'd out and giv'n him; and I gave one of the Turks a private wink, who understanding it was a promise of gratuity, turn'd about to his Comrades, and cry'd, 'Tis very true, they drink no Wine. However in regard they had Orders to bring us before the Cady, there was no contending. Thereupon I and three others undertook to and answer for all the rest. The Cady revil'd us as bad as the Janizary at first; but he was not only surpriz'd, but very much troubl'd, when they all unanimously affirm'd that we drank no Wine, believing they were confederates with us. But I had cunningly slipt eight Ducats into the Hand of the Turk to whom I had made a sign with my Eye, who over-joy'd at so plentiful a gratuity, had over-perswaded his Comrades not to say any thing against us. The Cady though he did not like their Testimony, yet call'd for Coffee for us, according to the custom of the Country, and sent us to his Lieutenant; who having been often greas'd in the Fist by the Smyrna-Merchants, receiv'd us very kindly, and told us that the Cady was but newly come to his Place, and was needy; however a small matter would content him. There­upon we gave the Lieutenant twenty-five Ducats, who most certainly went snips with the Cady, and so return'd us to our Company, who were much afraid we would not have come off so.

We were resolv'd to return to Smyrna not the same way we came, and so we took another Road, which was a very pleasant way, partly over firm Sands, and partly thorough Meadows, where we met with several narrow Dikes very well Pav'd. Then we cross a rugged high Mountain, and lay in a Mahumetan Barn.

The next day we return'd to Smyrna, having finish'd our small Journey to Ephesus in five days. When we told the Consuls how the Janizary had betray'd us, they made their Complaint to the Janizary Aga and the Cady, who, for his punishment put him out of the Consul's service, which is an advantageous Employment. For besides that the Consul's Janizaries are exempt from the Duties of War, they are well plac'd; for there is never a Merchant that is not beneficial to them some way or other; especially at good times, as New-years-day and other Festivals. Nor could the Janizary have been more severely punish'd; for the Turks love Money above all things in the World.

But to return to our matter. The Rendezvouz of all the Caravans is generally two Leagues from the City, near a Town call'd Pongarbachi. The day of their setting out being fix'd, every one provides himself for his Journey, and meets the Evening before at the place appointed, to be ready at the hour.

From Smyrna to Tocat, is thirty-five days journey with the Caravan, and the last time I went we made it thirty-eight from Pongarbachi.

The first day we travel'd eight hours through a Country whose prospect was not unpleasing, leaving some Villages more than a League from the Road; and we lodg'd in a Park, near the River Pactolus; which is a small River, the Sand whereof shines, and is of several colours. Which caus'd Antiquity to call Pactolus Golden-Sanded. It falls from the Mountain Tinolus, and after it has water'd the Territory of Sardis, mixes with the River Hermus, that throws itself into the Archipelago through the Gulf of Smyrna. The Mouth of it is not above two or three Leagues from the City, toward the North.

The next day in six hours we came to Durgout, a little City in a Plain. All Christians that live not in the Territories of the Grand Signor, and pass that way, once a Year pay Carrage, or a Tribute of four or five Crowns: but the Franks are exempt, both at Durgout and over all Turkie. There resides a Basha in this City; and we were constrain'd to stop there a whole day, because the Caravan that comes from Persia arriv'd at that time, so that they were forc'd to change their Camels.

The third day, after five hours travel in extremity of Heat, we came to lodge near a paltry Village.

[Page 37] The fourth day we travel'd six hours, and stop'd near to a small River. In the Morning we pass'd over the Ruines of the ancient Sardis, the Capital City of Lydia, and Seat of King Croesus. There were still to be seen the Ruines of a large Palace and two fair Churches, with a great number of Pillars and Corniches of Marble. This City having held out six Years against the Army of Temur-leng, who besieg'd it; so soon as he had taken it, in revenge he utterly destroy'd it. There is a Village near Sardis of the same Name, where stood the City, which was one of the Seven Churches mention'd in the Revelation. The fifth day we rode for seven hours through a Country but ill manur'd, and took up our Stage in a Plain upon the side of a River.

The sixth day we pass'd by the Walls of the ancient Philadelphia, call'd at present Allachars, which was also one of the Seven Churches of Asia. There is something of Beauty still remaining in those Walls, and the City is very large, but ill peopl'd. It is situated upon four little Hills, at the foot of a high Mountain over-looking a fair Plain to the North, that produces excellent Fruit. To witness its Antiquity, there is yet the Ruines of an Amphitheater, with certain Sepulchers, from whence the Inhabitants report that the European Christians took out the Bodies that were buried there, and transported them into Europe, believing them to be the Bodies of Saints. It is now all destroy'd, but re-built of Earth by the Turks after their mode. It was formerly one of the principal Cities of Mysia, and in regard it was alway very subject to Earthquakes, the most part of her Inhabitants liv'd in the Country. The last time I travel'd that way, in the year 1664, the seventeenth of June, the Turks were feasting and rejoycing upon the News, as they said, which they had receiv'd, of the defeat of the Christians in Candy. But the News was false, and only con­triv'd to encourage the People; for the Grand Signor was then making Levies in those Parts. We lodg'd that day, after seven hours travel, upon the Bank of a small River, a League and a half from Philadelphia.

The seventh day we travel'd eleven hours over a Mountain, where those Trees plentifully grow that bear Galls, and Valanede, which is the shell or rind of an Acorn, that Curriers make use of to dress their Leather. We lodg'd in a Meadow on the top of a Mountain which is call'd Ijagli-bogase, or, The Mountain of Robbers.

The eighth day we continu'd our Journey over the same Mountain, which is a very barren Country where there is no Provision to be had. We travel'd but six hours, and lodg'd near a River in a Plain call'd Sarrouc abaqui.

The ninth day the Caravan travel'd thorough dry Lands, where there is not one Village to be seen, and lodg'd near a Bridge built over a River call'd Copli-sou, in the Plain of Inahi.

The tenth day, after we had travel'd eight hours over an uneven and barren Country, we stopt in a Valley near a River call'd Bana-sou, the Water whereof is not good. In the Night there arose a Tempest that put us all in a disorder, and the Rain that fell was as cold as is it had been in the depth of Winter. We were wet to the Skins, and were forc'd to throw Coverlets over the Bales to keep the Goods from being spoyl'd.

The eleventh day we travel'd through a pleasant Country, between Vales adorn'd with a most delightful Verdure; and we were in view as we pass'd along of certain hot Baths, though very little regarded. We lodg'd upon the Banks of a small River, by the side whereof we had travel'd for some hours.

The twelfth day we continu'd our Road for six hours between the same Vallies, and lodg'd by a River.

The thirteenth day we travel'd eight hours, and stop'd near to a Village in a Country call'd Doüagasse.

The fourteenth, after a Journey of seven hours we pass'd by the Walls of Aphiom-Carassar, that is, The Black City of Aphiom or Opium; because it has a Prospect over a fair and large Country well cultivated, where they sow great store of Pop­pies, whence they draw their Opium or Aphiom, as the Turks call it.

Aphiom-Carassar is a great City, dirty and ill built, the ancient Name whereof I could never learn, for the Greeks and Armenians are very ignorant. But ac­cording to all probability and the situation of the place, it ought to be the ancient Hierapolis situated upon the Maeander, a famous River of the Lesser Asia, that [Page 38] winds and turns the most of any River in the World. And indeed we are the more to seek, in regard the Turks change the ancient Names according to their own custom and pleasure, and give no other Names to Rivers than that of the principal City through which they pass; or else deriving their Names from the Colour of their Sands. There is to be seen in that City an ancient Castle of Free-stone upon the Point of a high Rock, separated from the Mountains that are next it toward the South, which make a Semicircle. All the Armenian Christians, Subjects to the King of Persia, passing thorough Aphiom-Carassar must there pay Carage, from which they are not exempted, though they have paid it before at Erzerom or elsewhere. The Caravan does not stop at Aphiom-Carassar, as well for that there are no Inns but what are ruin'd, as for that about a League farther there is a place where you have excellent Fish, and very cheap, and they of the City bring Barley, Straw, and other things which the Caravan wants. The Caravan therefore that day lodges upon the Banks of Maeander, which is to be cross'd over a Bridge not far distant from a small Village. In this River are great store of Crawfish and Carps; and the Fisher­men will be sure to attend upon the Caravan. I have seen some Carps there above three Foot long.

The fifteenth our Caravan began to part it self, some for Tocat, some for the Road to Aleppo; the one part taking the right-hand Road toward the Winter-East, for Syria; the other the left-hand Road North-East, for Armenia.

After we were parted, we travel'd two or three hours in sight of one another. They that go to Aleppo, fall into Tarsus, where St. Paul was born, and from Tarsus to Alexandretta. But we continu'd our Road to Tocat, and after we had cross'd a great Plain, having travel'd six hours, we lodg'd in a Mershy place near a small Village. There is one thing remarkable in this Road as in many others, which manifests the Charity of the Turks. For in most of the high Roads, that are far from Rivers, they have set up Cisterns, whither when the Rains fail, the neigh­bouring Villages bring Water for the Travellers, who would else be very much distress'd.

The sixteenth we travel'd eight hours through a very even Country, but ill ma­nur'd; where we saw a little City call'd Boulavandi. There are some Mosquees, which the Turks have built out of the Ruines of the ancient Greek Churches, from which they have taken Pillars of Marble, and other pieces of Architecture, to adorn their Sepulchers without any order at all, which you meet with very often upon the high Roads; the number is the greater, because they never lay two Bodies in one Grave. There is also in this City an Inn, cover'd with Lead, which is all the Beauty of it; nor do Travellers make any use of it but only in foul weather. We lodg'd a League and a half from the City, and staid there all the next day.

The seventeenth we travel'd eleven hours through a mix'd and uneven Country, and came to lodge in a Village where there are not above three or four Houses, though there be excellent Pasturage about it. There is no Water, but what is drawn out of three deep Wells; for which reason the place is call'd Euche-derin-giu.

The eighteenth we travel'd not above five hours through desert Countries, and took up our Stage in a kind of a Bog, near a pitiful Village.

The nineteenth, after we had travel'd eight hours through spacious desert Plains, we pass'd through a large Village, the Inhabitants whereof were gone with their Cattel into the Mountains, for the cool Air, during the Summer time, according to custom. There is an indifferent handsom Mosquee of Free-stone; and indeed the Village, the Name whereof the People told me was Tshaciclou, has been much bigger than now it is, as may appear by the Ruines. In two hours after we came to lodge beyond it in a Meadow, near a Rivulet.

The twentieth we cross'd over desert Plains, but which seem'd to have been for­merly well manur'd; and after ten hours travel, we stop'd in a Bottom near a bad Water.

The twenty-first, for ten hours the Country was all barren and desert, and we came to lodge at the end of a long Plain, near two Wells, the Water whereof was good for nothing.

The twenty-second we travel'd through the fore-mention'd Plain, and met with little Valleys where there was very good Pasturage. The Caravan stop'd near to a pitiful Village, and a nasty Well.

[Page 39] The twenty-third we travel'd not above five hours; because it was the time of the Turks Beiram, or Easter, which our Caravan, consisting of Turks, would needs solemnize. That day we travel'd through an indifferent good Country, and well till'd, where we discover'd several fair Villages; and we lodg'd upon a rising Ground, from whence we had a very fair and far distant Prospect.

The twenty-fourth we travel'd six hours, and came to lodge in a Meadow where the Water was bad. Near to that place, we discover'd a Plain that extends it self eight or ten Leagues in length, though it be not above one or two in bredth: it seem'd like a Lake; and indeed it is only a salt Water congeal'd, and thickn'd into Salt, which you can hardly dissolve but in fair Water. This Lake furnishes almost all Natolia with Salt; where you may buy a Wagon-load drawn by two Bufalo's for 45 Sous. It is call'd Deuslag, or The Place for Salt; and the Basha of Coushahar, about two days journey from it, gets by it 24000 Crowns a Year. Sultan Amurath caus'd a Dike to be cut quite thorough it when his Army march'd to the Siege of Bagdat, which he took from the Persian.

The twenty-fifth we travel'd nine or ten hours, and met not with one Village, the Country being all desert. We lodg'd upon a rising Ground, near a good Foun­tain call'd Cara-dache-cesmé, or, The Fountain of the Black Stone.

The twenty-sixth we pass'd through a great Village call'd Tshekenagar, in a pleasant situation, but very ill built; and after we had travel'd eight hours, we came to lodge in a delightful Meadow, near another Village call'd Romcouché.

The twenty-seventh we travel'd nine hours through Countries full of Licorice, and having pass'd a great Town call'd Beserguenlou, we lodg'd in a Meadow.

The twenty-eighth we cross'd a great River, call'd Jechil-irma, over a long well built stone Bridge. At the end of the Bridge call'd Kessré-kupri stands a great Village, wherein the greatest part of the Houses are built under Ground, like Foxes Holes. We put on farther, and after seven hours travel, we lodg'd below another great Village call'd Mouchiour, where there are abundance of Greeks, which they constrain ever and anon to turn Turks. The Country being inhabited by Christians, and fit for the Plantation of Vines, there is Wine good store, and very good, but it has the scent of the Wines of Anjou. The Village is well situated but ill built, most of the Houses being under Ground, in so much that one of the Com­pany riding carelesly, had like to have faln into a House.

The twenty-ninth we rode for seven hours through a pleasant Country, where we saw several Villages; near to one of which the Caravan lodg'd in a Meadow, close by a Fountain.

The thirtieth we rode through a flat Country, well manur'd, and stop'd near a River wherein there was but very little Water: it is call'd Cara-sou, or, The Black River. For two or three days together, at every two Leagues distance we observ'd little Hillocks of Earth artificially rear'd, which they told us were rais'd during the the Wars of the Greeks to build Forts upon, for Watch-Towers.

The thirty-first we travel'd a very uneven Country, but abounding in Wheat, and after we had travel'd nine hours, we lodg'd in a Meadow near a River, which we cross'd next Morning before day, over a stone Bridge.

The thirty-second, after we had travel'd eight hours, we lodg'd by a River, where we saw a great number of Turcomans: They are a People that live in Tents like the Arabians, and they were then leaving that Country to go to another, having their luggage in Wagons drawn by Bufalo's.

The thirty-second we met again with Mountains and Woods, which we had not seen in 18 days before, which had constrain'd us to carry Wood upon our Camels to dress our Provision: We were very sparing of it, and sometimes made use of dry'd Cows dung or Camels dung, when we came near the Waters where they were wont to drink. We travel'd eight hours that day, and lodg'd in a Meadow where the Grass was very high, yet where there had been Houses formerly standing.

The thirty-fourth we forded a deep and rapid River call'd Jangou, from the Name of the Town next to it. A little above the place where we forded it, we saw a ruin'd Bridge, which had been built over it.

The thirty-fifth we travel'd eight hours through a fair Valley well manur'd, and upon the left hand we left a Castle rais'd upon a Rock. The Caravan lay that night upon a rising Ground near a Village.

[Page 40] The thirty-sixth we travel'd through the same Valley for eight or nine hours longer; in this Valley were several pleasant Villages, but we lay by a small Ri­ver.

The thirty-seventh we travel'd six hours among the Mountains, where there are some very narrow Passages, but store of Water; and we lay in a Vale abounding in Pasturage.

The thirty-eighth we rode for four or five hours over a rugged Mountain in craggy way, at the foot whereof we met with a Village call'd Taquibac; from whence it is but five Leagues to Tocat. And these are all the Roads from Paris to Ispahan, through the Northern Territories of Turkie.

CHAP. VIII. How the Author was robb'd near Tocat, and of a certain sort of rare and fine Wool which he first brought into France.

TAquibac is the place where the Persian Caravan uses to meet, when it departs from Tocat to Smyrna; and this is the only place in all the Road where a Traveller ought to stand upon his guard; by reason of Thieves who haunt these Quarters, and are great Masters in their Trade. Once as I came out of Persia they would needs give me a tast of their Art, notwithstanding all the care I took. There were three or four of us that would needs ride before with our Servants to Taquibac, in expectation of the Caravan which was to come the next day; where we set up our Tents upon the Bank of a small River. I had then a good many Bales of Wool, with which I made as it were a double Wall about my Tent: so that there was but one passage between the Bales, for one Man. In four of these Bales I had a quantity of Musk in lead'n Boxes, to the value of ten or twelve thousand Crowns: which Bales I put within-side, so that they touch'd the Tent and my Beds-head. Next Night, it being very dark, the Thieves came, and finding the outward Bales smell so strong of Musk, they thought one of those Bales would be a considerable Booty. The Bales were all ty'd together with a Cord that kept them fast; nor was it easie to undo them, without a noise. They wak'd me with their bustle at first, and I sent out my Servants to see if they could catch them; but they will lye so close upon their Bellies, that in such a dark Night as that was tis impossible to discover them. Thereupon my Servants went to sleep again, and the Thieves to their work; and having with a great deal of ingenuity cut the Cord, they carried away the two Bales. In the Morning four or five of us with a Camel-driver for our Guide pursu'd them, and in half an hour we met with the marks of the Robbery; for the Rogues being mad that they found nothing but Wool, which they thought to be of no great value, scatter'd it in the High-way for two or three Leagues together: so that I caus'd it to be pickt up again, and lost not above fifteen or twenty Pound, I speak this to caution the Merchants that carry Bales of Silk or other rich Commodities, to beware of these Thieves; for they will come creeping upon their Bellies, and then cutting the Bales with great Razors, will presently empty a Bale of one half of the Goods.

'Tis true, the Wool was of no great value for their use; but it was a sort of rare and very fine Wool, which I carry'd out of Persia to Paris, where such fine Wool was never seen. As to the place where it is to be had, I met with one of the Gaures, or Persians that adore the Fire, who when I was at Ispahan in the year 1647 shew'd me a Sample of it, and inform'd me that the greatest part of this Wool comes from the Province of Kerman, which is the ancient Caramania; and that the best Wool is to be met with in the Mountains that are next to the City that bears the name of the Province: That the Sheep in those Parts have this particular property, that when they have fed upon new Grass from January till May, the Fleece falls off, of it self, and leaves the Sheep naked, and their Skins smooth, like a Pig's that is scalded off; so that there is no need of shearing them, as with us: after they have [Page 41] gather'd it, they beat it, and the course Wool breaking, the fine only remains. That if you transport it, before you make it into Bales, you must throw Salt-water upon it, which keeps the Worms out of it, and preserves it from rotting. Now you must take notice that they never dye this Wool, it being naturally of a clear Brown, or a dark Ash-colour; and that there is very little of it White, which is also much dearer than the other, as well for that it is scarce, as because that the Mufti's, the Moullah's and other persons belonging to the Law, never wear any Girdles or Vails (wherewith they cover their Heads when they pray) but White: for at other times they wear them about their Necks, as the Women do their Scarfs.

Into this Province of Kerman almost all the Gaures are retir'd, and they are they that only Trade in this Wool, and have the whole Manufacture of it. They make those Girdles of it which they use in Persia; and some Pieces of Serge, which are almost as fine and transparent, as if they were of Silk. I brought over two Pieces into France, and presented one to the late Queen Mother, the other to the Princess of Orleance.

I could not drive any Trade in this Wool till the year 1654, returning out of the Indies by Sea from Surat to Ormus. To which purpose, I departed from Ormus, and took Guides along with me to shew me the way to Kerman, whither I could not get on Horseback in less than twenty-seven days. I dare say that Alexander the Great did not march this way into the Indies: for in the whole extent of the the Country there is no Water to be met with but in some certain places, and in the hollow of some Rocks, where there is not enough neither to water eight or ten Horses. Besides, in some places a man is constrain'd, by reason of the Mountains, to fetch a great compass about; for a Foot-man that makes his way through those Rocks, shall go farther in half an hour than a Horse-man can do in four.

Kerman is a large City, which has been often ruin'd by being several times taken and re-taken; nor is there any thing handsom in it, but only one House and a Garden, upon which the last Kans have bestow'd a vast expence to make the place delightful. They make there a sort of Earthen-ware which comes very near to Porcelan, and looks as neat and as fine. As soon as I arriv'd, I went to visit the Kan, who made me very welcom, and gave order to the Gaures to furnish me with Bread and Wine, Pullets and Pigeons, which in those parts are fat, and as large as little Capons. The Gaures are they that make the Wine; and to make it more sweet and pleasant, they take away the Stalks, and never press any thing but the meer Grape.

The Kan was but newly entred into the possession of his Government, and being desirous, according to the custom of the new Governours, to have a noble Sword and Dagger, with a rich Furniture for his Horse, which requir'd some Jewels, I presented him with a Diamond worth eight hundred Crowns, which he caus'd to be set in the end of the handle of his Dagger. He also desir'd to have of me as many more Jewels as came to seven or eight hundred Livres: and by the Present and the Bargain I facilitated my purchase of the Wool which I intended to buy. Two days after he invited me to his Entry-Feast, which he made for the chief of the City; and knowing I wanted a Mule, he sent me one well worth a hundred Crowns. This is the Noblest Carriage in all Persia, which the great Personages choose before Horses, especially when they are in years. But it was not the Kan alone who was civil to me. A young Lord, who liv'd in Kerman, and was at the Feast, whose Father had been formerly Kan himself, took great delight to discourse with me concerning my Travels; and offer'd me his service in a very obliging manner. Now the Persians are very curious, and great admirers of the Rarities of Forein Countries: which inclination led the young Lord to enquire of me whether I had any Fire-Arms, telling me he would content me for them to my satisfaction. The next Morning I presented him with a Carbine, and a pair of Pistols that pleas'd him exceedingly; and a little Watch, for which I would take no Money, whereat he seem'd to be not a little troubl'd. However he sent me a stately Horse worth about two hundred Crowns, or twelve Tomans. This young Lord was of a clear humour, civil, accomplish'd, generous, and did every thing with a good grace. So that when he sent me the Horse, he sent to entreat me withal, if I did not like that Horse, to come and choose which I lik'd best in his Stable.

[Page 42] By the favour of this Lord and the Kan, I made good the Purchase that I intended. For the People began to murmur (knowing what a Parcel I had got together) and told the Kan that I would carry away all the Cloth out of the Country, so that they should have none to set the Poor on work. Thereupon the Kan sent for me, and for those reasons told me I must buy no more. To send off the blow, I made answer, That it was the King of Persia's desire to try if we could make as fine Cloth of his Wool in France, as they did in England and Holland; and that if it succeeded, I should bring French Workmen into Persia, and so by setling the Trade in his own Country, free him from the Charge of forein Manufactures. This silenc'd the Kan, so that I still bargain'd for more. But when I was return'd to Ispahan, the People of the Country would not keep touch with me. However, I wrote so home to the Kan, threatning withal to complain to the King, that he fearing the King's dis­pleasure, forc'd the Natives to send me my Bargain to Ispahan.

CHAP. IX. Of the Road from Kerman to Ispahan; and the Fortune of Nazar Mahomet-Ali-Beg.

FRom Kerman to Ispahan is no less than five and twenty days on Horseback. In those places where there is any Water, the Country is very good; but those places are very rare; for the Road is generally Sandy, and offensive to the Eyes. The chiefest comfort to a Traveller is, that every Evening he meets with an Inn, where there are Cisterns, which is a great refreshment in those desert Countries. The most part of those Inns were built some Years since by the special care of Mahomet-Ali-Beg, Nazar, or Grand Master of the King's House and Treasury; a Person the most Virtuous of any that Persia can boast of for many Years. He was Generous, and favour'd the Franks in all things, for he lov'd them exceedingly. He faithfully serv'd his King, and defended the People against the Oppression and Insolencies of the Great ones; which drew upon him the hatred of many: but still he preserv'd himself by his sincerity and prudence; as by the following Story will remarkably appear.

The Great Sha-Abas the First, being one day a Hunting in the Mountains far out of sight from his followers, met a young Lad playing upon a Pipe by an Herd of Goats. The King asking him some Questions, he answer'd him to the purpose to every one, not knowing who he was. The King surpriz'd at his Reparti's, made a sign to Iman-couli-Kan Governour of Schiras, who was just come up to him, not to tell the Goat-herd who he was. After that he proceeded to ask him other Que­stions; to which the young Man answer'd so smartly, that the King could not choose but stand in an amaze. Thereupon the King ask'd the Kan what he thought of the Goat-herds Wit? Who answer'd, that he believ'd if the Boy were taught to Write and Read, he might do good service to his Majesty. Upon that the King immediately caus'd him to be sent to School, where the young Lad being naturally of a solid Wit, clear Judgment, and happy Memory, grew so accomplish'd, and so well acquitted himself of several Employments which his Majesty bestow'd upon him, that the King advanc'd him to the Office of Nazar, or Grand Master of the House, and did him the Honour to call him Mahomet-Ali-Beg. The King ob­serving his fidelity, and good management of all things, sent him twice Ambassador to the Great Mogul, and both times was extremely pleas'd with his Negotiation. Ma­homet lov'd Justice, and would not stoop to be corrupted by Presents: A thing which is very rare among the Mahometans. This great Integrity of his made all the Lords of the Court his Enemies, especially the Eunuchs and the Women, who have always the King's Ear. But while Sha-Abas liv'd, there was no person that durst open his lips against the Nazar, so much was he in favour, and that justly, with the King. Sha-Sefi succeeding his Grandfather Sha-Abas, and being very young, the Nazar's Adversaries thought they had now a fair Game to play. Thereupon the [Page 43] Eunuchs, who are always at the King's Ear, suggested to him many things to the disadvantage of the Grand Master; but whatever they said, the King gave little heed to their Tales. At length, one day when the King was looking upon certain Skains and Daggers set with precious Stones, one of the Eunuchs told him those were trifles, and then desir'd his Majesty to send for a Scimitar that the Grand Signor had sent Sha-Abas, all over set with Diamonds. True it is, that the Grand Signor had sent a rich Scimitar to Sha-Abas; but Sha-Abas had defac'd it long before Mahomet's time, and had made a noble Jewel of the Stones that adorn'd it. There­upon this Scimitar was sought for in the Treasury, where Mahomet was chief Offi­cer; but not being to be found, the King was troubl'd, finding it registred in the Book of Presents. Then certain Eunuchs and Grandees of the Court took their opportunity to rip up Mahomet's Life; they represented to the King how many Inns, Bridges, and Dikes Mahomet had built at his own charge; what a House he had rear'd for himself, fitting for his Majesty to live in: and aggravated withal, that he could not do such great things as those, without purloining notably from the Publick Stock; for which he should do well to call him to an account. As they were thus discoursing, Mahomet came into the Presence, to whom the King (not receiving him as he was wont to do) spoke some hard words about the Scimitar that could not be found: telling him withal, that he would see if all the rest of the things in the Treasury were agreeable to the Register, and then gave him fifteen days time to give in his Account. Mahomet not at all mov'd, reply'd to the King, that if his Majesty pleas'd he might come to the Treasury to morrow: and withal be­sought him so to do, though the King a second time gave him fifteen days. There­upon the King did go to the Treasury next morning, according to Mahomet's desire, and found all things in good order; having heard before what became of the Sci­mitar. From thence he went to Mahomet's House, who made the King a mean Present: For it is the custom, that he whom the King honours with a Visit, must make a Present to his Majesty. After the King had receiv'd it, he walk'd up and down, and view'd the Chambers, Halls, Parlours and Rooms of State; and wonder'd to see them so ill set out with plain Felts, and course Carpets; whereas in other Lords Houses a man could not set his Foot upon any thing but Cloth of Gold and Silk. For the King, as they had set the Nazar out, expected to have found other things; which made him admire at so great a Moderation in so high a degree of Honour. Now at the end of a Gallery there was a Door lockt with three great Padlocks. Of this the King took no notice: whereupon the Meter, who is the White Eunuch, and chief of his Chamber, as he came back, shew'd the King the Door that was so strongly Padlock'd; which made the King curious to have it open'd: withal, asking Mahomet what he had got there lock'd up with so much care? Oh Sir, said he, it behoves me to keep that lockt, for there is all the Estate I have in the World. All that your Majesty has seen in this House is yours, but all that is in that Chamber is mine, and I dare assure my self, your Majesty will be so gracious as never to take it from me. Those words inflam'd the King's curiosity so, that he commanded the Door to be open'd: But he was strangely surpriz'd, when he saw nothing more within than Mahomet's Sheep-hook, that lay upon two Nails, his Scrip wherein he us'd to put his Victuals, his Bottle for his Water, his Pipe, and his Shepherd's Weeds, all hanging against the Wall. The Nazar beholding the King's astonishment at such a Sight, Sir, said he, when the King Sha-Abas found me in the Mountain keeping Goats, then that was all I had, and he took nothing from me: I beseech your Majesty that you would not deprive me of these things neither; but rather, if you please, let me resume them again, and fall to my old Calling. The King touch'd at so high a piece of Virtuo, caus'd himself to be disapparel'd, and gave his Habit to the Nazar, which is the greatest Honour that the King of Persia can bestow upon a Subject. Thus Mahomet continu'd, and dy'd honourably in his Employment. This brave Person was the Protector of all the Franks in Persia: and if any one had done them wrong, upon complaint he did them Justice immediately. One day as I was shooting Ducks, upon the River of Ispahan near the Nazar's Gardens, with two Servants, some of the Nazar's people that did not know me set upon me, and would have taken away my Gun; which I would not let go till I had broke the Stock about the Shoulders of the one, and flung the Barrel at the other's Head. Thereupon I took some of the Franks [Page 44] along with me, and complain'd to the Nazar: He testifi'd his sorrow for what had happen'd, and gave us evident Proofs thereof, by the blows which he caus'd to be laid upon those that had done me the injury.

Another time, Sha-Sefi being upon his return from Guilan, his Tents were set up near Zulfa in Armenia, where the King staid to hunt two or three days. Now among the rest of the Courtizans that follow'd the Court, to divertise the King with Dancing and Mummery, there was one who was perfectly handsom, to whom the King had already sent Presents; which could not be unknown to any Lord i'the Court. But the Nazar's Son, for all that, being in the heat of Youth, got this Courtizan to his Tent, and there lay with her: which came to his Father's Ears next day. The Nazar, whether out of his zeal to the Ring, or whether it were an effect of his prudence to prevent the King's anger, which would have certainly been the death of his Son, caus'd him to be drub'd, after the manner of the Country, and bastinado'd all over, till the Nails of his Toes dropt off, and that his Body was almost a perfect Gelly. Which when the King understood, together with the Young Man's Crime, he said no more, but that the Nazar had done wisely by punishing his Son himself, to prevent his Justice.

But to return to the Road from Kerman to Ispahan. The first day that I set out from Kerman, at my Stage in the Evening I met with a rich Moullah, who seeing I had Wine, civilly offer'd me some of his Ice to cool it. In retaliation, I gave him some of my Bottle. He invited me to his House, which was well built, with a handsom Garden with Water in it. He entertain'd me with Spoon-meat, according to the mode of the Country; and when I took my leave, he fill'd my Boracho with very good Wine.

The following days I saw nothing worthy observation; the Country being as I have already describ'd it.

Yezd lyes in the Road, almost in the mid-way between Kerman and Ispahan, in 93 Deg. 15 Min. of Longitude, and 13 Deg. 45 Min. of Latitude. It is a great Town in the middle of the Sands, that extend themselves for two Leagues round it: so that when you leave Yezd you must take a Guide, for upon the least Wind the Sand covers the Highway, whereby a man may be apt to fall into Holes, which seem to have been either old Cisterns, or the Ruines of ancient Buildings. Between the Town and the Sands there is a little good Soil, which produces excellent Fruits, but above all, Melons of several sorts: the Pulp of some is green, of others yellow and vermilion; and some there are, the meat whereof is as hard as a Renneting. There are also very good Grapes, and good Wine; but the Governour will not permit the Inhabitants to make Wine. Some therefore they dry, and of the rest they make a kind of Confection to cat with Bread. There are also abundance of Figs, which are large and well tasted. They distil vast quantities of Rose-water, and another sort of Water with which they dye their Hands and Nails red, which they squeeze out of a certain Root call'd Hina. There are three Inns i'th' City, and several Bazars or Market-places cover'd and vaulted, which are full of Mer­chants and Workmens Ware-houses. They also make at Yezd several Stuffs of Silk intermix'd with Gold and Silver, which they call Zerbaste; and another sort of Stuff of all pure Silk, call'd Daraï, like our smooth strip'd Taffata's. Other Stuffs they make, half Silk half Cotton; others all of Cotton, like our Fustians. They make also Serges of a particular Wool, which is so fine and delicate, that it looks hand­somer, and is much better than Silk.

Though I had nothing to do, I staid in Yezd three days, because I met with some Armenians of my acquaintance. In which time I found the general Opinion to be true. For certainly the Women of Yezd are the handsomest Women in all Persia. There is no Feast made, but five or six of them come to divertise the Guests with Dancing, who are generally none of the meanest Beauties and Conversations among them. However it comes to pass, the Persian Proverb is, That to live happy, a Man must have a Wife of Yezd, cat the Bread of Yezdecas, and drink the Wine of Schiras.

CHAP. X. Of the Caravansera's, and Government of the Caravans.

THE Caravansera's are the Eastern Inns, far different from ours; for they are neither so convenient, nor so handsom. They are built square, much like Cloysters, being usually but one Story high; for it is rare to see one of two Stories. A wide Gate brings ye into the Court; and in the midst of the Building, in the front, and upon the right and left hand, there is a Hall for Persons of the best Quality to keep together. On each side of the Hall are Lodgings for every man by himself. These Lodgings are rais'd all along the Court two or three Steps high, just behind which are the Stables, where many times it is as good lying as in the Chamber. Some will rather lye there in the Winter, because they are warm, and are roof'd as well as the Chambers. Right against the Head of every Horse there is a Nich with a Window into the Lodging-Chamber, out of which every man may see how his Horse is look'd after. There Niches are usually so large, that three men may lye in them; and there it is that the Servants usually dress their Victuals.

There are two forts of Inns. For some are endow'd; where you may be re­ceiv'd for Charities sake; others, where you must pay for what you call for. There are none of the first, but between Buda and Constantinople. Nor is it lawful for any others to build such, but only the Mother and Sisters of the Grand Signor, or such Viziers, and Basha's as have been three times in Battel against the Christians, In these Inns, which are built out of Legacies, there is a very good allowance of Diet to Travellers, and at your departure you have nothing to do but to thank the Benefactor. But from Constantinople to Persia, there are none of those endow'd Inns; only such where you have nothing but bare Walls. It is for you to provide Utensils for your Kitchin, and a Bed to lye on: as for Provision, the people bring Lambs, Pullets, Butter, and Fruits in their feasons: or else you may buy it, provided before-hand by the Master of the House. There you also meet with Barley and Straw for the Horses, unless it be in some few places that I have been at upon the Road. In the Country you pay nothing for your Chambers; but in the Cities you pay something, though it be but a small matter. Usually the Caravans never go into the Towns, which are not able to contain so many People and Horses. When you come to your Quarters every one looks after his own Chamber, for there is no regard to Poor or Rich: sometimes out of Breeding, or out of Interest, an ordinary Tradesman will give way to a great Merchant; but no man is permitted to leave the Chamber which he has once made choice of. In the night the Inn-keeper shuts up his Gates, being answerable for all things that shall be lost; for which reason he keeps a Guard about the Inn.

As for the Persian Caravansera's, they are more commodious, and better built than those of Turkie, and at more reasonable distances, throughout almost all the Country. By which description of Inns it is easie to observe, that though these Caravansera's are not so commodious for the Rich as our European Inns, yet they are more convenient for the Poor, to whom they never refuse to give admittance: no person being oblig'd to eat or drink more than he pleases; but every one being allow'd to spend according to his Stock, without grumbling.

You may travel in Turkie or Persia, either with the Caravan, or else in company, ten or twelve together, or else alone with a Guide. The safest way is to go with the Caravan, though you are longer upon the Road, by reason of the slowness of their march, especially when the Caravans consist of Camels.

The Caravans are as it were great Convoys, which consist of a good number of Merchants, that meet at certain times and places, to put themselves into a con­dition to defend themselves from Thieves, that are very rise in Troops in several desert places upon the Road. These Merchants choose among themselves a Caravan-Bashi, who orders them how they shall march, assigns the places of lodging at night, and who with the chief of the Caravan, is a kind of Judge of the differences that [Page 46] fall out by the way. There is no honest man that covets the employment; for the Caravan-Bashi, being to discharge several small duties upon the Road, however he behave himself, is still suspected for his fidelity. When the Turks are most nume­rous, they make choice of a Turk; when the Armenian Merchants are most, they choose an Armenian.

There are two sorts of Caravans. There are Caravans which consist of Camols, which are the most usual; in regard that Camels are cheap, and for that some Camels will carry as much as three Horses, others as much as four or five. But among the Caravans of Camels, there are several Horses and Mules, which the Merchants themselves ride upon; it being very tedious to ride upon a Camel when he only goes a foot-pace, but very pleasant when he goes upon his large trot. There are other Caravans that consist only of Horses; and among these, if the Merchant have none of his own, he may hire one. The Servants ride upon those Horses that are least laden; but at Smyrna you may meet with several good Horses very cheap, from thirty to sixty Crowns. As for those persons that are either unwilling or unable to be at any expence, they make use of Asses, of which there are enow to be had. Above all things, you must take care to provide Pack-Horses to carry your Wine; for the Camel-Masters being Mahometans, will not permit you to lade their Camels with any such Liquor; that Beast being particularly consecrated to Mahomet, who so strictly forbad the use of Wine. You put your Wine in Bottles made of wild Goats Skins, with the hairy side turn'd innermost, and well pitch'd within. There are some of these Bottles from which they take off the Hair; but they are not so good, as being seldom without holes.

These Camel-Masters are an insolent sort of people, which you shall never know how to deal with, unless you can bring them to punishment. There was one that play'd me some of his jades tricks in the Road from Smyrna to Tauris; but when I came to Escrivan, I complain'd to the Kan, who presently caus'd a hundred Bastnado's to be giv'n him upon the spot. Nor is there any other way to bring those Scoundrels to reason, especially at Smyrna and such other places, where the Merchants have their Con­suls, who upon the least complaint to the Cady have Justice done them immediately. The examples of some of these Camel-drivers that have been paid off, keep the rest in good decorum; and they will be very tractable for a good while after.

The Journies of the Caravans are not equal; sometimes not above six hours travel, sometimes ten, and sometimes twelve; it being the convenience of Water, which is not every where to be met with, that is the Rule of Lodging the Caravan. At all times the Caravan travels more by night than by day; in Summer to avoid the heat, and at other times, that you may be sure to have day enough to set up your Tents. For if the Caravan should come to pitch in the night, it would be impossible for them to find where to set up their Tents, to dress and look after their Beasts, make ready their Kitchins, and provide things necessary for so large a Company. True it is, that in the depth of Winter and in the great Snows, they seldom set out till two or three hours after midnight; and that sometimes they stay till day-break. But in Summer, according to the Journey which they intend, they set out either at midnight, or an hour after Sun-set. The last time I went from Smyrna the Caravan consisted of six hundred Camels, and almost the same number of Horse. Sometimes their number is greater, so that the Camels going but by one and one after another, a Caravan seems to be an Army; and whether it be in travelling or lodging, they take up a world of Ground. Now by reason they travel all night in Asia, it happens that the Air is indifferent wholsom; and that the Travellers, that lye for the most part upon a Carpet spread upon the Ground, find themselves very little inconve­nienc'd by it.

The Camels that go into Persia through the Northern Provinces of Turkie, travel like Horses in a Cart, by seven and seven; they are ty'd together by a Cord about the bigness of a Man's little Finger, and a Fathom long; fasten'd to the Pack-faddle of the Camel that goes before, and to the Head-harness of the Camel that follows. Those little Cords are made no stronger, to the end that if the Camel before should chance to fall into any hole, the Camel behind should either keep him up, or else not be pull'd in after the other. And to the end that the Camel-driver who leads the foremost, may know whether the other six follow him or no, the last Camel has a Bell about his Neck, which if it cease to ring, 'tis a sign that [Page 47] some one of the small Cords is broken, and that a Camel has got a mischance. The seventh Camel generally carries the Provisions. For if a Merchant have six Camels laden he is generally allow'd one to carry his Provision; if he have but three, he is allow'd but half a Camel's load; but if he have nine or twelve, he pays nothing for the carriage of his Provisions of Food, or any thing else that he pleases. Every Merchant with his Servants rides by the Camels that are laden with his Goods, especially in the dark nights; for there are a subtil sort of Thieves, that have a trick to cut the two Cords behind and before, and without any noise drive the Camel out of the way; for having no Hoofs, his Feet cannot be shod, and consequently he makes no noise. As well Merchants, as others, Camel-drivers and Servants, keep themselves from sleeping sometimes by singing, and sometimes by taking Tobacco, and sometimes by discourse.

The Caravan lyes in such places as they think most convenient, chiefly near to the Water-side. When the Sun is set, the Shaoux, who are a sort of poor people, are diligent to guard the whole Field, and take care of the Goods. They walk up and down, and either in the Arabian or Armenian Dialect they cry one to another, God is one, and he is merciful; adding from time to time, Have a care of your self. When they see that the time grows near to set out, they give notice to the Caravan-Bashi, who gives order to bid them cry, Saddle your Horses; and after that, to cry again, Load. And it is a strange thing to consider, that upon the second Cry of the Shaoux every thing is ready upon an instant, and the Caravan begins to set forward in great order and great silence. Every one takes care to be ready, for it is dangerous to be left behind, especially in those Countries which are haunted with Thieves. The Wages of these Shaoux is the fourth part of a Piaster, for a Bale, from Smyrna to Erivan.

When the Stages are long, and that they believe that they shall not get thither by ten or twelve in the morning, every one carries two small Wallets on each side his Horse, and when they come to the place where they intend to Break-fast, they spread a Carpet upon the Ground and fall to.

When you go from Constantinople, Smyrna, or Aleppo with the Caravan, it be hoves all people to carry themselves according to the mode of the Country; in Turkie like a Turk, in Persia as a Persian; else would they be accounted ridiculous, nay sometimes they would hardly be permitted to pass in some places, where the least miscarriage makes the Governours jealous, who are easily perswaded to take Strangers for Spies. Always, if you have upon the Road but an Arabian Vest, with a mean Girdle, whatever Clothes you wear under, there is no danger of passing any where. If you wear a Turbant, you must of necessity shave off your Hair, else it will never stay upon the Head. As for Beards, they never mind them in Turkie, the greatest being accounted the handsomest; but in Persia they shave their Chins, and wear their Mustaches: and I remember I have seen one of the King of Persia's Porters, whose Mustaches were so long, that he could tye them behind his neck, for which reason he had a double Pension. More than that, you must provide your self of Boots according to the custom of the Country; they are made of red, yellow, or black Cordovan, lin'd with Linnen cloth; and in regard they never reach higher than the Knee, they are as convenient to travel in as Shooes. As for Spurs, they never wear any; for the Iron at the upper end of the stirrop, which is four-square, serves to spur the Horse: so much the better, because it is the custom of all Asia to ride very short.

Before you set out, you must provide your self of several Houshold Goods, espe­cially of those Bottles that are call'd Matares, which are made of Bulgary-Leather; every man carries his own at the Pummel of his Saddle, or else fasten'd to the Crupper of the Saddle behind. Besides these you must buy Borracho's; the most serviceable things in the World; for they will never break, and will hold above fifty Pints at a time. The smaller Bottles serve to put Aqua-vitae in: and the Leather whereof they are made, has that peculiar to it self, that it keeps the Water fresh. Then you must provide Food, and make a provision of Rice and Bisket as far as Tacat; For as for Pullets, Eggs, and such like things, you meet with them almost every where; as also with Provision for your Horses, and new Bread, unless in some few places. You must also carry a Tent with all its appurtenances, with a Mat­tress; and Clothes to cover the Horses at night, especially in the time of the [Page 48] deep Snows, wherein you shall find them almost buried the next mor­ning.

When the Caravan comes near the place where it intends to stop, every Mer­chant rides before to take up a convenient place for himself and his Goods, for which he covets a rising Ground, that if it should happen to rain, the Water may run from the Bales. They also in that case lay Stones under the Bales, and a Cloth over them; and the Servants make a Ditch about the Tent for the Water to run into. But if it be fair weather, there is no care tak'n to set up the Tent: or if it be, 'tis folded up after Supper; to the end the Owners may have the more liberty to look about them, and may be in a better condition to look after the Thieves. But if there be any likelihood of foul weather, the Tent is let stand till the first Cry of the Shaoux. The Horses are ty'd before the Tent with Cords fasten'd to a Nail, and their hinder Legs are ty'd with other Cords, to the end they may not stir out of their places. If it be not seasonable for them to eat Grass, you must buy Barley and Straw of the Country-men that come to serve the Caravan there being no Oats, neither in Turkie nor Persia.

In dressing your Victuals, you must follow the custom of the Country; which is, to make a Hole in the Ground, and then kindling a Fire in it, to set the Pot over it.

But the greatest inconvenience which Travellers suffer with the Caravans, is this, that when they come to Waters, which are only Wells, or Cisterns, or Springs, where only two or three can lade up Water at a time. For after the Caravan is lodg'd, the Merchants shall be forc'd to stay for Water two or three hours together; for they that belong to the Beasts of Carriage, will not suffer any person to take any Water, till the Camels, Horses, Asses, and Mules are all serv'd. Nor is there any contending with these Camel-drivers and Muleters; for as they are a rude sort of people, a Man runs the hazard of his Life by contesting alone: of which one Example may suffice for all.

Setting out one day from Bander-Abassi, for Ispahan, with a Merchant of Babylon, as we came to the Inn where we lay the first night, which was call'd Guetchy, the Merchant commanded one of his Slaves who was a Cafer of Mozambique, to fetch him some fresh Water, at the Cistern, to drink: The Cafer went thither, and return'd without any Water, telling his Master, that the Camel-drivers and Mu­leters threaten'd to beat him, and would not let him come near the Cistern. The Merchant either ill advis'd, or not knowing the custom, bid him go back, and kick those that refus'd him. Whereupon the Cafer returning, and finding the fame resistance as before, began to give ill language to the Camel-drivers, so that one of them happen'd to strike him. Upon that the Cafer drawing his Sword, ran him into the Belly, so that he fell down dead: Thereupon the whole Rabble fell upon him, bound him, and carry'd him back to Bander-Abassi for the Governour to put him to death. The Master of the Cafer, accompany'd by several Merchants, went to the Governour and represented to him the insolence of those people, and how the business had happen'd. Upon which the Governour took the poor fellow out of their hands, and caus'd him to be kept safe; after that, he caus'd ten or a dozen of those Muleters to be seiz'd, and order'd them to be soundly bastinado'd, for hind'ring a Merchant's Servant from fetching Water for his Master. He also put others in Prison; who had not been releas'd so soon, but at the request of those Merchants whose Goods they carry'd, and who stood in need of their service. The Governour spun out the business, on purpose that the rest might be gone: but as soon as they were all departed except the two Brothers of the party slain, he told them, he could not do them Justice, because their Brother belong'd to Schiras; so that all that he could do, was to send the Criminal thither. The Master of the Cafer being rich, and loving the Slave, made hast to Schiras, to tell his Story first to the Kan. And I remember, two days journey on this side Schiras, we met in the High­way abundance of poor people, the kindred of the party slain, who were staying for the Cafer, to carry him before the Kan, and to demand Justice. Two or three Leagues also from Schiras I met the Father and Mother, together with the Wife and Children of the deceas'd, who seeing me pass along, fell at my Feet and recounted to me their Grievances. I told them by my Kalmachi, that their best and surest way was to take a piece of Money of the Cafer's Master, and so to put up [Page 49] the business. This Proposal, that would have been accepted in Christendom, was rejected by those poor Mahometans; in so much that the Father tore his Beard, and the Women their Hair, crying out, That if it were the custom of the Franks to sell the Blood of their Kindred, it was not their custom so to do. When the rest of the kindred came with the Cafer to Schiras, the Kan did all he could to persuade the Widow to take Money; but not being able to over-rule her, he was forc'd to give the Cafer into their hands: and how they us'd him I cannot tell, being con­strain'd at the same time, to pass from Schiras for Ispahan.

CHAP. XI. Of the breeding, nature, and several sorts of Camels.

THE Female Camel bears her Burthen eleven Months; and her Milk is a sovereign Remedy against the Dropsie. You must drink a Pint of it every Day for three Weeks together: and I have seen several Cures wrought thereby at Balsara, Ormus; and in other places in the Persian Gulf, upon several English and Holland Mariners.

So soon as a Camel comes into the World, they fold his Feet under his Belly, and make him lye upon them; after that they cover his Back with a Carpet that hangs to the Ground, laying Stones upon each side, so that he may not be able to rise; and thus they leave him for fifteen or twenty days. In the mean time they give him Milk to drink, but not very often; to the end he may be accustom'd to drink little. This they do also to use them to lye down, when they go about to Lade them; at which time they will fold their Legs and lye down so obediently, that it is an admirable thing to consider. So soon as the Caravan comes to the place where it is to lye, all the Camels that belong to one Master will range themselves in a Circle, and lye down upon their fore Feet; so that it is but untying one Cord that holds the Bales, and they will slide off gently from each side of the Camel. When 'tis time to lade again, the same Camel comes and crouches down between the two Burthens, and when they are fasten'd, gently rises up with the Burthen again; which is done without any trouble or noise. When the Camels are unladen, they let them go a­field to feed upon the Heath and Bushes, and half an hour before Sun-set they return of themselves, unless any one happen to wander, which they will call again with a certain Cry which is natural to them. When they return, they range themselves in a Circle, and the Muleters give to every one little Balls of Barley-meal kneaded, as big as two Fists. The Camel though he be of a large bulk, eats very little, contented with what he meets with upon the Heaths; where he more especially looks for Thistles, of which he is a great lover. But it is more admi­rable to consider with what patience they endure drowth: For one time that I cross'd over the Deserts, where we were 65 days upon the Road, our Camels were nine days without Drink. But what is more wonderful is this, that when the Camel is in the heat of Generation, he neither eats nor drinks for 40 days together; and he is then so furious, that without great care you cannot avoid being bitten by him: And where-ever he bites, he carries away a piece of the Flesh. At that time issues out of their Mouths a white Foam, besides that there appears on each side of their Chops two Bladders large and swell'd, like the Bladder of a Boar.

In the Spring time all the Camel's Hair falls off in three days. The Skin remains bare, and then the Flies are very troublesom. There is no way but to Tar them all over: though it be a ventrous thing to come near them at that time.

A Camel must be drest as well as a Horse; but the Camel-keeper never uses any Curry-comb, but only beats him all over with a small Wand, as Carpets are wont to be dusted. If a Camel be hurt or gall'd under the Pack-saddle, they never apply any thing to it, but only wash it well with Urine, without using any other Re­medy.

[Page 50] There are two sorts of Camels; the one which is proper for hot Countries, the other for cold Countries.

The Camels in hot Countries, such as go from Ormus to Ispahan, cannot travel if the Ground be dirty and slippery; for their Bellies burst, while their hinder Quarters rive from their Bodies. These are small Camels, that carry not above five or six hundred Pound weight; but they are kept for little, and endure Thirst a long time. They do not tye them Head to Tayl, as they do the great ones, but let them go as they please themselves, like a Herd of Cows. The Camel-driver follows them singing, and sometimes playing upon his Pipe: the louder he sings and pipes, the faster the Camels go; nay they will stand still when he gives over his Musick. When the Camel-drivers come to a Heathy Ground, they will give them leave to feed for half an hour, taking their Tabacco the while; and then singing them together again, they set forward. The Camels bred in the Deserts are hand­som, but very tender, so that they must be gently us'd, and never be put upon long Journies. However, they eat and drink less than others, and endure thirst more patiently.

The Camels of cold Countries, such as those that travel from Tauris to Constan­stantinople, are large Camels, that carry great Burthens, and will pull themselves out of the dirt: But in fat Grounds and slippery Ways the Drivers are fain to spread Carpets, sometimes an hundred one behind another; otherwise their hinder Quarters are also apt to rive from their Buttocks: but if the Road be slippery for too great a distance together, there is no way but to tarry 'till it be dry'd up and fair. These Camels usually carry a thousand Pound weight: but if the Merchant has any hank upon the Camel-driver, he will lay upon every Camel fifteen hundred weight, thereby making two of three Burthens. This the Merchants do, when they come near the Custom-Houses, especially that of Erzerom, which is the most severe. The Merchant does this for his own Profit: So that when the Customer mistrusting, demands how so many Camels come to travel empty, he makes answer, that they were Camels that carry'd Provision: But the Customer most commonly winks at that good Husbandry of the Merchant, for fear of losing his Custom, and obliging the Mer­chant to take another Road.

There is as much knavery among the Camel-drivers, as among our Horse-Coursers. For I remember, that being once at Casbin, a Persian Merchant, thinking he had bought eight good Camels, was deceiv'd in four which he thought the best: He verily believing they had been fat and in good case, but they were only blown up. For those Cheats have a trick to cut a Hole near the Tail, of which the Purchaser takes no notice, and which they know neatly how to sow up again: In this Hole they will blow till they have puft up a lean Camel, that he shall appear as fat and plump as the soundest that ever fed: whereby they often deceive the quickest sights, especially when the Hair is all off, and that the bare Skin is all rub'd over with Tar.

CHAP. XII. Of the Coyns and Money of Persia.

IN the first place, you must take notice that there are no Pieces of Gold coyn'd in Persia, but only some few, to be thrown among the People when a new King ascends the Throne: which Pieces are neither currant among the Mer­chants, nor of a certain Price. When the Solemnity is over, they who get the Pieces, are not so curious to keep them, but carry them to the Changer, who gives them the value in currant Money. These Pieces of Gold may be worth five A Frank is worth 2 s. Sterling. Franks, about the fineness of Almain-Ducats. Once I receiv'd ten thousand of them of one Merchant, at a prefix'd rate; for their value is uncertain.

In the second place observe, That the Silver in Persia is good, whether it be in Barrs, or in Plate, or in Money, and it is taken for its goodness. For when a [Page]

[Page 51] Merchant enters into Persia, whether it be at Erivan or Tauris, where the Money is coyn'd, he is oblig'd to tell what Silver he carry's, to the end it may be melted down and stamp'd with the King's Stamp; under a great Penalty, if discover'd to be a concealer. But if a Merchant's affairs will not permit him to stay at Erivan, or at Tauris, and that he think it better to carry his Money to the Mint of Ispahan; 'tis but taking a Note from the Master of the Mint either at Tauris or Erivan, to attest that he has declar'd the truth of what he carries, and it is excuse enough.

But they that can cunningly carry their Silver to Erivan, when the Season is to go to the Indies, make a great profit of the Real; for the Merchants that go to the Indies will give them thirteen and a half, or fourteen Shayez a piece, for as many as they have. But there are few Merchants that carry their Silver to Ispa­han; in regard the Masters of the Mints upon the Frontiers will be sure to present them with a good piece of Silver Plate, rather than let them carry away their Bullion to Ispahan, to have the benefit of Coynage themselves.

They that traffick into Guilan for Silks carry their Silver to Teflis, where the Master of the Mint gives them 2 per Cent. profit for their Silver. The reason is, because that which he gives them for it is a little sophisticated; but it passes currant all over Guilan.

In the third place, you must observe, That upon the pieces of Silver, as well for the King's Duty as the Coynage of the Money, there is requir'd 7½ per Cent. But upon the Copper Money, not above one half, or 1 per Cent. at most. Whence it comes to pass, that when a Workman has need of Copper, rather than lose time in going to buy it, he will melt down his Casbeké's.

There are four several pieces of Silver Coyn; Abassi's, Mamoudi's, Shaet's, and Bisti's: but as for the Bisti's, there are very few at present.

The Copper pieces of Coyn are call'd Casbeké, of which there are single and double.

The single Casbeké is worth five Deniers and a Half-peny of our Money.

The double Casbeké is valu'd at eleven Deniers.

Four single Casbeké's, or two double ones, make a Bisti.

Ten single Casbeké's, or five double ones, make one Shayet in value.

Two Shayet's make a Mamoudi.

Two Mamoudi's make an Abassi.

The Real or Crown of France is worth three Abassi's and one Shayet; and counting a Real at sixty Sous, an Abassi is worth eighteen Sous, six Deniers. Though to say truth, three Abassi's and one Shayet make three Half-pence more than the Crown.

Number 1, and Number 2. Are two pieces, which upon one side bear the Names of the twelve Prophets of the Law of Mahomet, and in the middle this In­scription, La Illah allah Mahomet resoul Allah, Ali Vaeli Allah: on the back-side, The Conquerour of the World, Abas II. gives us permission to coyn this Money in the City of Cashan.

Num. 1. Makes five Abassi's; and counting our Crown at thirteen Shayet's, it comes to four Livres, twelve Sous, six Deniers.

Num. 2. Makes two Abassi's and a half of our Money, or forty-six Sous and one Farthing.

Num. 3. Is an Abassi, which comes to eighteen Sous, six Deniers.

Num. 4. Is a Mamoudi, worth nine Sous and a Farthing.

Num. 5. Is a Shayet, worth four Sous, seven Deniers, one Half-peny.

Num. 6. A Bisti, worth one Sous, ten Deniers.

Num. 7. The Copper Coyn, call'd Casbeké, worth five Deniers, one Half-peny.

These Coyns, unless it be the Casbeké, bear no other Inscription, but only the Name of the King reigning when they were coyn'd; the Name of the City where they were coyn'd; with the Year of the Hegyra of Mahomet.

Though all Payments are made in Abassi's, as well at Ormus and other parts of the Gulf belonging to the King of Persia, as in the Iland of Bahren, where is the great Fishery and Market for Pearls; yet there is no mention made but only of Larins.

[Page 52] The Larin is describ'd in the Money of Arabia. Eight Larins make an Or; four and twenty make a Toman.

An Or is not the name of a Coyn, but of a Sum in reck'ning among Merchants. One Or is five Abassi's.

A Toman is another Sum in payment: For in all Persian Payments they make use of only Tomans and Ors; and though they usually say that a Toman makes fifteen Crowns, in truth it comes to forty-six Livres, one Peny and ⅓.

As for pieces of Gold, the Merchant never carries any into Persia, but Alman-Ducats, Ducats of the Seventeen Provinces, or of Venice; and he is bound to carry them into the Mint so soon as he enters into the Kingdom; but if he can cunningly hide them, and sell them to particular persons, he gets more by it. When a Mer­chant goes out of the Kingdom, he is oblig'd to tell what pieces of Gold he carries with him; and the King's people take a Shayet at the rate of a Ducat, and some­times they value the Ducat at more. But if he carry's his Gold away privately and be discover'd, all his Gold is confiscated.

The Ducat usually is worth two Crowns, which in Persia justly comes to twenty­six Shayets; but there is no price fixt in that Country for Ducats. For when the season is to go for the Indies, or that the Caravan sets out for Mecca, as well the Merchants as the Pilgrims buy up all the Ducats they can find out, by reason of their light­ness; and then they rise to twenty-seven, and twenty-eight Shayets, and sometimes more, a piece.

CHAP. I. The second Voyage of the Author from Paris to Ispahan: and first; of his Embarking at Marseilles for Alexandretta.

THE Road from Constantinople to Erivan, which with all those other Roads through the Northern Provinces of Turkie, the first time I travel'd into Persia, I have amply describ'd. It behoves me now to treat of the Southern Provinces, and of those through the Deserts, where there are several Emirs, or Arabian Princes, of which several are very potent: For there are some of them that can bring 30000 Horse into the Field, five of which I have had the honour to discourse, and to oblige them with small Presents; in recompence whereof they sent me Rice, Mutton, Dates, and Sherbet, as long as I staid among them.

I embark'd at Marseilles in a Holland Vessel that carry'd five and forty Guns, from thence we set sail for Malta. At Malta we staid twelve days to carine the Vessel, and to take in fresh Victuals. Among the rest we bought two thousand Quails, for there are a prodigious quantity in the Iland: but in two or three days we found five or six hundred of them destroy'd by the Vermin that pester'd the Ship.

From Malta we set sail for Larneca, a good Road in the Iland of Cypras, to the West of Famagosta, which is not above a days journey from it by Land. As we were making into the Road, about two or three hours after midnight, we perceiv'd a Vessel close upon us, and both the Ships Company began to cry out, for fear of falling foul one upon another, but the Vessel sheer'd clear without any harm on either side.

[Page 54] In the morning we cast Anchor, and went a-shoar. It is a good half League from the Road where the Consuls and Merchants, both English, Hollanders, and French, live in a very pitiful Village. However there is a little Monastery of Capuchins, who officiate in the Chappel of the French Consul; and another of Religious Italians, that depend upon the Guardian of Jerusalem. We staid but two days at Larneca; the Captain having nothing to do but to inform himself what business they might have for him at his return; it being usual to then to take in spun and unspun Cottons, together with course Wool for Mattresses.

From Larneca 'till we came in view of the Coast of Syria, we had the Wind very favourable; but at length coming to prove a little contrary, instead of carrying us to Alexandretta, it cast us to the Northward, two or three Leagues higher, upon the Coast of Cilicia, toward a Town call'd Païasses. Half a League from that City lyes a vast Rock, and between that Rock and the Land runs a very high Sea: And here it was that the people of the Country believe that the Whale cast up Jonas again; though the common Opinion reports it to have been done near Joppa in Palestine. All along that Coast from Alexandretta to Païasses, and farther, the way is so narrow and straiten'd by the Mountain, that in some parts the Camels and Horses must dip their Feet in the Sea: and yet you must pass that way of necessity, travelling from Syria to Constantinople. Between Alexandretta and Païasses it was, that the Chevalier Paul, in a Vessel that carry'd only three hundred Men, miss'd but little of surprizing the Caravan that every Year carries the Tribute of Egypt to Constantinople, which since hath never been sent by Sea for fear of the Maltesi. This Knight had landed his Men, and laid them in Ambuscade; but unfortunately his Design was discover'd, so that the Caravan, that might have been easily surpriz'd, stood upon their Guard.

We were near the Coast, when we discover'd a Skiff with fifteen or sixteen Turks, that were sent by him that commanded four Galleys of Rhodes to demand the Customary Present from our Captain. Those Galleys then anchor'd at Païasses, and had there discharg'd themselves of their Provisions of War for Bagdat, which the Grand Signor was going to besiege. And it is the custom, that when the Great Turk's Galleys are out at Sea, that whatever strange Vessel passes by them must send them a Present, either willingly or by force. When the Basha of the Sea, who is the Admiral of the Turks, is in Person at Sea, the Vessel which he meets is not excus'd for 2000 Crowns: so that when he sets out from Constantinople to cruise, the Vessels of the Franks do all they can to avoid him. There are some that will seek to escape in sight of the Galleys, but it has cost them dear. And it happen'd, that one day the Wind slackning, they boarded a Vessel of Marseilles, the Captain and Notary whereof were both seiz'd, and drub'd 'till their Bodies were almost bruis'd to a Gelly, and they had like to have dy'd upon it, without being the better in their Purses; for the rudeness of the Chastisement did not excuse them from paying the Money which was demanded. Whether our Captain knew any thing of this Example, or whether it were out of his natural heat of Valour, he laugh'd at the Skiff-men, bidding them be gone, and telling them he had no Presents for them but Cannon-Bullets. Thereupon the Men return'd to their Galleys, who soon deliver'd us from the true fear we were in, that the gallantry of the Captain had drawn us into an inconvenience. For while we kept the Sea close by the Coast, to observe the Countenances of the Turks, they weigh'd Anchor, and turn'd their Prows toward Rhodes. However, before they left us they sent us a Broad-side, and our Captain, whatever we could say, sent them another, which render'd us more guilty. For the Turks pretend that when their Navy is at Sea, or only one Squadron, and that a strange Vessel is in fight, she is bound to come as near as the Wind will permit her without being hal'd, for which they will otherwise make the Commander pay very severely. The Consuls and Merchants of Aleppo understanding what had pass'd, very much blam'd the Captain, fearing a worse consequence of the business: But by good fortune, the miscarriage was stifl'd and never went farther.

The same day the Wind veering to the West-North-West, we sail'd into the Road of Alexandretta, where we came to an Anchor, about a quarter of a League from the Land. Upon the advice which they have out of Christendom, so soon as they of Alexandretta discover a Vessel, and know what Colours she carries, the Vice-Consul of the Nation to which the Vessel belongs, fails not to advertise the [Page 55] Consul of Aleppo, by a Note which is carr'yd in four or five hours; though it be more than two or three days journey on Horse-back. For they tye a Note under the Wing of a Pigeon, who is taught what to do, and she flies directly to the place whence she was brought. For more surety, they usually send two, that if the one should miscarry i'the dark, which has many times happen'd, the other may supply the defect.

Alexandretta is nothing else but a confus'd heap of paltry Houses, inhabited by the Greeks, who keep little Fudling-schools, for the Mariners and others, the meaner sort of the people: for the Merchants lye at the Vice-Consuls of the Nation. There were but two then, the English Vice-Consul and the French; who had each of them a very convenient dwelling. However they must be Men who love Money at a strange rate, that accept of those Employments. For the Air, like that of Ormus, is generally so bad, especially in the Summer, in so much that they who do not dye, cannot avoid very dangerous Distempers. If there be any so strong that they can hold out for three or four Years, and can accustom themselves to bad Air, they do well to stay there; for for them to betake themselves to a good Air, is to hazard their Lives. Mr. Philips the English Consul has been the only Person that ever liv'd two and twenty Years at Alexandretta: but you must know he was a brisk merry Man, and of an excellent temper of Body; and yet for all that he had been forc'd to be cauteriz'd. That which renders the Air so bad, is the great quantity of standing Pools and Plashes in the neighbouring Plains, extending to the East and South; but when the great Heats begin to approach, the most part of the Inhabi­tants retire to a Village call'd Belan, upon the next Mountain to the City, where there are very good Waters and excellent Fruits. They come also thither from Aleppo, when there is any appearance of a Pestilence; and yet there are few people in this Village who are not troubl'd with a sort of Fever, that makes their Eyes look yellow and hollow; which they never can remedy as long as they live.

About half a League from Alexandretta, on the right band of the High-way, just against the Mersh on the other side, is a Tower whereon are to be seen the Arms of Godfrey of Bulloign. In all likelihood it was built for the defence of the High-way, which is enclos'd between these two Mershes, whose Exhalations are very noxious.

It is but three little days journey from Alexandretta to Aleppo, and some well mounted have rid it in two. The Franks are not permitted to go thither on Foot. For before that Prohibition, in regard the way was short, every Sea-man that had a hundred Crowns, more or less, went on Foot to Aleppo, and got easily thither in three days, with little expence. Now because they had but little Money to spend, and were willing to dispatch their business, they would not stand to give Four or Five in the Hundred extraordinary for what Goods they bought, which was of dangerous consequence to the Merchants. For you must observe, that when the Ships arrive, the first Man that either out of rashness or ignorance, gives two Sous more for a Commodity that is not worth a Crown, sets the Price, and causes all the whole Commodity to be sold at that rate. So that the Merchants that lay out ten or twelve thousand Crowns together, are very careful lest those Saylors should get before them, and enhance the Price of the Market.

To remedy which inconvenience, the Merchants obtain'd an Order, That no Strangers should be permitted to go a-foot from Alexandretta to Aleppo, but that they should be bound to hire Horses, and to give for every Horse six Plasters thither, and six back; which expence would soon eat out the Profit of a poor Ma­riner's small Sum.

Usually you stay at Alexandretta three or four days, as well to rest your self, as to make some little Provisions for your Journey to Aleppo. For though you meet with good Stages at Evening, yet the Janizaries will be very glad to eat by the way.

Setting out from Alexandretta, we travel'd over a Plain to the foot of a Mountain which is call'd Belan. There is a wide Gap in the midst of this Mountain, which giving liberty to the North-East Wind, when it blows hard, doth so enrage the Road of Alexandretta, which is otherwise very calm, that no Ship can ride there at that time. In so much that all Ships that happ'n to be there when the Wind rises, presently weigh, and get out to Sea, for fear of being cast away. Almost at [Page 56] the top of the Mountain you meet with an Inn; but though it be a very fair one, with Fountains round about it, yet Merchants never stop there, but go on a little farther to a Grecian that speaks good Italian, and whose entertainment is indifferent good, considering the Country. When you go away, you give him a Crown for your accommodation, which is the manner at other Stages, by a custom, which the Franks themselves having establish'd, will never be left off.

Descending down the Mountain you discover the City of Antioch, built upon a Hill. Formerly the Road lay through that City, but the Janizaries of the place exacting a Piaster from every person that travel'd that way, that Road is now disus'd. Antioch once made more noise in the World, being fal'n to ruine ever since the Channel, that ran from the City to the Sea, where Galleys might ride, has been stop'd up by the Sands that have encroach'd upon the Mouth of the Haven.

When you are at the bottom of the Hill toward the North, you discover a Castle built upon a Hill standing by it self, from whence you have a prospect over a good part of the Plain of Antioch. It is about fifteen Leagues long, and three broad, in that part where the Road lyes. Somewhat more than half the way, you meet with a long Causey parted by several Bridges, by reason of certain Rivulets that cross it, without which the Road were hardly passable. The frequent Revolts of Bagdat and Balsara, which the Grand Signor has been forc'd so often to besiege, caus'd the Grand Visier in the Reign of Achmat to undertake this Causey, which together with the Bridge was finish'd in six Months, that was lookt upon as a Mira­cle. This was done for the more easie passage of the Artillery, and other Provisions of War, that were brought out of Romania and Greece to the Siege of Bagdat, which could never have been done, but for this Causey. At the end of this Causey stands a Bridge, very long and strongly built, under which runs a River, which, with the other Rivulets that wind about the Plain, forms a Lake toward the South, that is call'd the Lake of Antioch. This Lake affords a great Revenue, by reason of the Eels that are caught there, which are taken two Months before Lent, and transported to Malta, Sicily, and other parts of Italy.

This Plain is very full of Olive-Trees; which produces that great Trade of Soap, that is made at Aleppo, and transported into Mesopotamia, Chaldea, Persia, and the Desert; that Commodity being one of the most acceptable Presents that can be made to the Arabians. Sallet-Oyl is also in great esteem among them: so that when you make them a Present of it, they will take off their Bonnets, and rub their Heads, their Faces, and their Beards with it, lifting up their Eyes to Heaven, and cry in their Language, God be thank'd. Therein they have lost nothing of the ancient custom of the Eastern People, of which there is often mention made in Holy Scripture.

About a League and a half beyond the Plain, you meet with a Rock, at the foot whereof is a little deep Lake, wherein they catch a world of Fish that are like our Barbels. I have kill'd them with my Pistol; and found them to be of an excellent tast; though they are not regarded at Aleppo.

Two hours after, you ford a River which is call'd Afrora; though if it have hap­pen'd to rain, you must stay 'till the Waters are fal'n. Having past the River, upon the Banks whereof you stay to feed your self and your Horses, you come to lye at a poor Village call'd Shaquemin, where there is an Inn. Here the Country­people bring Provisions of Food to the Travellers; and whether you eat or no, you must pay a Piaster, according to the custom which the Franks have establish'd. After you have pass'd the Plain of Antioch as far as Shaquemin, the Horses in Summer are so terribly tormented with a sort of great Flies, that it were impossible to travel three or four hours together, were it not for going out of the Road, either to the right, or to the left, and riding through the Fields, which are full of those Burrs that our Clothworkers make use of: For in regard they grow as high as the Crupper of the Horse, they keep the Flies off from stinging and tyring the Horses.

Leaving the Village of Shaquemin, the Road lyes among Stones; and for half this tedious way, for two or three Leagues round about, you see nothing but the Ruines of ancient Monasteries. There are some of them which are built almost all of Free-stone; and about half a days journey toward the North, quite out of the Road, stands the Monastery of St. Simeon the Stylite, with the remainder of his so [Page 57] famous Pillar, which is still to be seen. The Franks that travel to Aleppo, usually go out of their way to see that place. That which I find most entire, and worthy observation among the Ruines of those Monasteries, is the number of arch'd Cisterns of Free-stone, which time has not defac'd.

From Shaquemin you come to dine at a Village call'd Angare, where every Travel­ler isentertain'd for his Piaster, as at the other Stages. Between the other Villages it is ten hours journey; but between Angare and Aleppo, but three. We alighted at the French Consul's House, at what time the Customers came presently to search our Cloak-bags; after which we went to the Quaissery, which is a place where all Strangers are at the expence of half a Crown a day for themselves, and a quarter so much for every Servant, and are well entertain'd.

CHAP. II. The Description of Aleppo, now the Capital City of Syria.

A Leppo is one of the most famous Cities in all Turkie, as well for the bigness and beauty of it, as for the goodness of the Air, and plenty of all things; together with the great Trade which is driv'n there by all the Nations of the World. It lyes in 71 Deg. 41 Min. of Longitude, and 36 Deg. 15 Min. of Latitude, in an excellent Soil. With all the search that I could make, I could never learn how it was anciently call'd. Some would have it to be Hierapolis, others Beroea: and the Christians of the Country agree with the latter. The Arabian Historians that record the taking of it, call it only Aleb, not mentioning any other name. Whence this Observation is to be made, That if the Arabians call it Aleb, others Alep; the reason is, because the Arabians never use the Letter P in their Language. This City was tak'n by the Arabians in the fifteenth Year of the Hegyra of Mahomet, which was about the Year of CHRIST 637, in the Reign of Heraclius Emperour of Constantinople.

The City is built upon four Hills, and the Castle upon the highest that stands in the middle of Aleppo, being supported by Arches in some places, for fear the Earth should tumble and moulder away from it. The Castle is large, and may be about five or six hundred Paces in compass. The Walls and Towers, though built of Free-stone, are of little defence. There is but one Gate to enter into it from the South, over a Draw-bridge, laid over certain Arches cross a Moat about six or seven Fathom deep. There is but one half of it full of Water, and that a standing Puddle to boot; the rest is a meer dry Ditch: so that it cannot be accounted a wholsom place. However there is Water brought into the Castle through a large Pipe from the Fountains in the City: and there is a strong Garrison kept in it.

The City is above three Miles in circuit, and the best half of it is unmoated; that Moat there, is not above three Fathom deep. The Walls are very good, and all of Free-stone; with several square Towers, distant one from the other about fourscore Paces; between which there are others also that are less. But these Walls are not all of them of an equal height, for in some places they are not above four Fathoms from the Ground. There are ten Gates to enter into the City, without either Moat or Draw-Bridge; under one of which there is a place that the Turks have in great veneration; where they keep Lamps continually burning, and report that Elisha the Prophet liv'd for some time.

There is no River that runs through Aleppo; and but only a small one without the City, which the Arabians call Coïc. However, though indeed it be but pro­perly a Rivulet, yet it is very useful to water the Gardens, where grows an abundance of Fruit, particularly Pistaches, much bigger, and better tasted than those that comes from the parts near Casbin. But though there be no River, yet there are store of Fountains and Receptacles of Water, which they bring from two places distant from the City.

[Page 58] The Edifices, neither publick nor private, are very handsom, but only within­side; the Walls are of Marble of several colours, and the Cieling of Foliage Fret-work, with Inscriptions in Gold'n Letters. Without and within the City there are six and twenty Mosquees, six or seven whereof are very magnificent, with stately Duomo's, three being cover'd with Lead. The chiefest and largest of all, was a Christian Church which they call'd Alhha, or Listen'd unto: which is thought to have been built by St. Helen. In one part of the Suburbs also stands another Mosquee, which was formerly a Christian Church. In that there is one thing worthy observation. In the Wall upon the right side of the Gate, there is a Stone to be seen two or three Foot square, wherein there is the figure of a hand­som Chalice, and a Sacrifice over the hollow of it, with a Crescent that covers the Sacrifice, the two Horns whereof descend just upon the brims of the mouth of the Chalice. One would think at first that those Figures were in Mosaïc-Work: but it is all Natural, as I have found with several other Franks, having scrap'd the Stone with an Iron Instrument, when the Turks were out of the way. Several Consuls would have bought it, and there has been offer'd for it 2000 Crowns; but the Basha's of Aleppo would never suffer it to be sold. Half a League from the City lyes a pleasant Hill, where the Franks are wont to take the Air. On the side of that Hill is to be seen a Cave or Grotto, where the Turks report that Haly liv'd for some few days; and for that there is an ill-shap'd figure of a Hand imprinted in the Rock, they farther believe it to be the Hand of Haly.

There are three Colledges in Aleppo, but very few Scholars, though there be Men of Learning that belong to them, who have Salaries to teach Grammar, and their odd kind of Philosophy, with the Grounds of their Religion, which are the Principal Sciences to which the Turks apply themselves.

The Streets of the City are all pav'd, except the Bazar's, where the Merchants and Handicraft-Tradesmen keep their Shops. The chiefest Artists, and the most numerous, are Silk and Chamlet-Weavers.

In the City and Suburbs there are about forty Inns; and fifty publick Baths, as well for Women as for Men, keeping their turns. 'Tis the chiefest Pastime the Women have to go to the Baths; and they will spare all the Week long to carry a Collation, when they go at the Weeks end to make merry among themselves, in those places of privacy.

The Suburbs of the City are large and well peopl'd, for almost all the Christians have their Houses and Churches there. Of which Christians there are four sorts in Aleppo, I mean of Eastern Christians, that is to say, Greeks, Armenians, Jacobites or Syrians, and Maronites. The Greeks have an Archbishop there, and are about fifteen or sixteen thousand in number; their Church is dedicated to St. George: The Armenians have a Bishop, whom they call Vertabet; and are about twelve thou­sand in number; their Church is dedicated to the Virgin. The Jacobites being about ten thousand, have a Bishop also; and their Church is likewise dedicated to the Virgin, as is that of the Armenians. The Maronites depend upon the Pope, not being above twelve hundred; their Church being consecrated to St. Elias. The Roman Catho­licks have three Churches, serv'd by the Capuchins, Carmelites, and Jesuites. They reckon that in the Suburbs and City of Aleppo there are about 250000 Souls.

There is a vast Trade at Aleppo for Silks and Chamlets; but chiefly for Gall-Nuts, and Valanede, which is a sort of Acorn-shell without which the Curriers cannot dress their Leather. They have also a great Trade for Soap, and for several other Com­modities; the Merchants repairing thither from all parts of the World. For not to speak of the Turks, Arabians, Persians, Indians, there are several English, Italians, French, and Hollanders, every Nation having their Consul to carry on their Interests, and maintain their Priviledges.

Nor does this place happ'n to be so great a Mart, through the convenience of the two Rivers of Tigris and Euphrates, as some have writt'n; by which they say such vast quantities of Commodities are transported and imported out and into the City. For had that been, I should never have cross'd the Desert, coming from Bagdat to Aleppo; nor at another time, going from Aleppo to Balsara. And as for Euphrates, certain it is, that the great number of Mills built upon it, to bring the Water to the neighbouring Grounds, have not only render'd it unnavigable, but made it very dangerous.

[Page 59] I must confess, that in the year 1638 I saw a great part of the Grand Signor's Army, and several Boats full of Warlike Provisions fall down the Stream, when he went to besiege it: but then they were forc'd to take away all the Mills that are upon the River; which was not done without a vast trouble and expence. As for Tigris, it is not navigable 'till beyond Babylon down to Balsara; where you may take Water, and be at Balsara in nine days. But the Voyage is very inconvenient, for at every Town which the Arabs have upon the River, you must be hal'd, and be forc'd to leave some Money behind you. Sometimes indeed the Merchants of Moussul and Bagdat, and others that come out of Chaldea to Trade at Balsara, carry their Goods by Water from Bagdat; but in regard the Boats are only to be tow'd by Men, it takes them up a Voyage of seventy days. By this you may judge of the time and expence of carrying Goods by Water up the River Euphrates to Bir, where they are to be unlad'n for Aleppo.

In short, if the convenience of Morat-sou (for so the Turks call Euphrates) were to be had, and that Goods might be transported by that River, the Merchants would never take that way: for the Arabian Princes, with their People and their Cattel, lying all the Summer long upon the Banks of the River, for the sake of the Water and the Grass, would make the Merchants pay what Toll they pleas'd them­selves.

I saw an Example of this, coming one time from Babylon to Aleppo. In all which Road we met but with one of those Arabian Princes, who lay at Anna: yet he made us pay for every Camel's Load forty Piasters. And which was worse, he detain'd us above five Weeks, to the end his Subjects might get more of our Money by selling us their Provisions. The last time I pass'd the Desert, I met another of these Arabian Princes together with his Brother, both young Men: He would not let us go a step farther, unless we would exchange two hundred Piasters in specie for Larins, the Money of the Country; and he forc'd us to take them, what-ever we could urge to make it appear how much we should lose by them. And indeed we said as much as we could, for the dispute lasted two and twenty days to no purpose; might overcoming right. By this you may guess what the other Arabians would do, who are not a jot more civil; and whether the Merchants would get by taking the Road of Euphrates.

The City is govern'd by a Basha, who commands all the Country from Alexan­dretta to Euphrates. His Guard usually consists of three hundred Men, and some years ago he was made a Vizier. There is also an Aga or Captain of the Cavalry, as well within the City as without, who commands four hundred Men. There is another Aga who has under him seven hundred Janizaries, who has the charge of the Gates of the City; to whom the Keys are carry'd every Evening, neither has he any dependance upon the Basha. The Castle is also under another Commander, sent immediately from Constantinople, who has under him two hundred Musketeers, and likewise the charge of the Cannon; of which there are about thirty Pieces; eight great Guns, the rest of a small size. There is also another Aga or Captain of the City, who commands three hundred Harquebuzes; beside a Sou-Bashi, who is a kind of Provost of the Merchants, or Captain of the Watch, going the round every Night with his Officers through the City and Suburbs. He also puts in Execution the Sentences of the Basha, upon Criminal Offenders.

In Civils there is a Cadi, who sits sole Judge, without any Assistants, of all Causes as well Civil as Criminal; and when he has condemn'd any Man to Death, he sends him to the Basha, together with his Accusation, with whom the Basha does as he pleases. This Cady makes and dissolves all Contracts of Marriage; all Acts of Sale and Purchase pass in his presence. He also creates the sworn Masters of every Trade, who make their inspection that there may be no deceit in the Work. The Grand Signor's Duties are receiv'd by a Tefterdar, or Treasurer-General, who has under him several Receivers in divers places.

In matters of Religion, the Mufti is the Chief, and the Interpreter of the Law, as well in relation to the Ceremonies, as in all Ecclesiastical differences. Among these Interpreters of the Law there is a Chieke or Doctor, appointed to instruct those that are newly converted to Mahumetanism, and to teach them the Maxims and Customs of their Religion.

Three days after I arriv'd at Aleppo, Sultan Amurat made his Entry, going to [Page 60] his Army, which was upon its march to the Siege of Babylon. Now you must take notice, that not far from Aleppo, toward the East, there stands a House inha­bited by the Dervies, which are a Religious Order among the Turks; though it for­merly belong'd to the Monks of St. Basil, and was a fair Covent. It is still in good repair, the Walls of the Chambers, Halls, and Galleries being all of Marble. All the Dervies of this House went half a League from the City, as far as Mount Ozelet, to meet the Grand Signor; and the Superiour, at the Head of the rest, having made a Speech to his Highness, two Dervies came and made their obeisance in particular. Which being perform'd, from that place to the Castle of Aleppo, for half an hours march together; they went just before the Grand Signor's Horse, turning round continually with all their might, 'till they soam'd again at the Mouth, and dazl'd the Eyes of those that beheld them. There are some of these Dervies that will turn in that manner for two hours together, and glory in that which we account folly.

While the Grand Signor staid at Aleppo, the Basha of Cayro came thither with a thousand Janizaries: And indeed, there never was a sight of Men more active, or better order'd. Every one of them had Scarlet Breeches that reach'd down to their Ancles, with a Turkie-Robe of English Cloth, and, a Wast-coat of Calicut painted with several Colours. The most part had Buttons of Gold and Silk; and as well their Girdles as their Scimitars were adorn'd with Silver. The Basha march'd at the Head of this Magnificent Regiment in a modest Garb; but the Harness of his Horse was as rich as his Habit seem'd to be careless, having spar'd for no Cost to appear before the Grand Signor in a stately Equipage.

There is a necessity for a Man to stay some time at Aleppo, as well to dispose of his Affairs, and in expectation 'till the Caravan be ready, unless he will venture himself alone without a Guide, which I have done more than once. And thus much for Aleppo, next to Constantinople and Cayro, the most considerable City in all the Turkish Empire.

CHAP. III. Of several Roads in general from Aleppo to Ispahan, and par­ticularly of the Road through the great Desert.

THere are five principal Roads from Aleppo to Ispahan, which being added to those other Roads which I have describ'd, through Natolia, make seven Roads into Persia, parting from Constantinople, Smyrna, or Aleppo.

The first of the five Roads, setting out from Aleppo, is upon the left hand, to­ward the Summer-East, through Diarbek and Tauris. The second directly East, by Mesopotamia, through Moussul and Amadan. The third upon the right hand, toward the Winter-East, through Bagdat and Kengavar. The fourth somewhat more to the South, crossing a little Desert, through Anna, Bagdat, and Balsara. The fifth through the great Desert, which is an extraordinary Road, never travel'd but once a year, when the Merchants of Turkie and Egypt go to buy Camels. Of these Roads I intend to treat distinctly, and in several Chapters. And first of the Road through the great Desert.

The Caravans that go to Balsara this way never set out 'till the Rains are fal'n, that they may not want Water in the Desert: and the Rain seldom holds up 'till December. This Caravan, with which I travel'd, set out upon Christmas-day, con­sisting of about six hundred Camels, and four hundred Men, Masters and Servants together: the Caravan-Bashi being only on Horse-back, and riding before, to find Water, and convenient places to lodge in.

I must confess I had the convenience my self to ride my own Horse, which I kept all the while I was at Aleppo. A liberty permitted the Franks only at Constantinople, Smyrna, and Aleppo: for at Damas, Seyde, or Cayro, none but the Consuls are suffer'd [Page 61] to keep Horses: others can only keep or hire Asses, which stand ready in the publick Streets at all times.

The next day we dislodg'd by day-break, and by noon we came to a place where there were five Wells, about five hundred Paces distant one from the other. The Water was excellent, and eaus'd us to replenish our Borache's: and about four a Clock in the Afternoon, we lay at a place where there was no Water.

The next day near noon we met with two Wells, but the Water was not good, and only the Camels drank of it; there we also lodg'd that night.

Having now travel'd two days in the Desert, I will describe it in a few words. You begin to enter upon it two or three Leagues from Aleppo, where by degrees you meet with nothing but Tents instead of Houses. It stretches out to the Winter-East, all along the Euphrates to Balsara, and the Shoar of the Gulf of Persia; and upon the South to the Chain of Mountains that divides it from Arabia Petraea and Arabia the Happy. These Deserts are almost quite thorough nothing but Plains of Sand, which in some places lye looser than in others; and are hardly passable 'till the Rains are but newly fal'n, and have knit the Sands together. 'Tis a rare thing to meet with a Hill or a Valley in these Deserts; if you do, there is as surely Water, and as many Bushes as will serve to boyl a little Rice. For throughout the whole Desert there is no Wood to be found; and all the Bavins and Charcoal that you can load upon Camels at Aleppo, will not last above eight or ten days. Therefore you must take notice, that of six hundred Camels that pass through the Desert, there are searce fifty laden with Merehandize, which is gene­rally course Cloth, some little Iron Ware, but chiefly black and blew Calicuts, which the Arabians make use of without ever whitening them. All the other Camels are only laden with Provision, and all little enough; so many People being to travel for so many days through so long a Tract of Ground where there is nothing in the World to sustain Life and Soul together.

For the first fifteen days travel we met with Water but once in two days, and sometimes not above once in three days. The twentieth day after we set out from Aleppo, the Caravan lay at a place where there were two Wells, and the Water very good. Every one was glad of the convenience of washing his Linnen, and the Caravan-Bashi made account to have staid there two or three days. But the News that we receiv'd, caus'd us to alter our Resolutions. For we had no seener giv'n order to dress our Suppers, when we saw a Courier with three Arabs, all mounted upon Dromedaries, who were sent to carry the news of the Taking of Babylon to Aleppo and other Cities of the Empire. They stop'd at the Wells to let their Beasts drink; and immediately the Caravan-Bashi, and the principal persons of the Caravan made them a small Present of dry'd Fruits and Granates. Who thereupon were so kind as to tell us, that the Camels which carry'd the Baggage belonging to the Grand Signor and his Train being tyr'd, his Officers would be sure to seize upon ours, if they should chance to meet with us: they advis'd us moreover not to come near Anna, lest the Emir should stop us.

Upon this news, we departed three hours after midnight; and keeping directly to the South, we put our selves into the midst of the Desert.

Eight days after we came to lye at a place where were three Wells, and three or four Houses. We staid there two days to take fresh Water, and we were just setting forward again, when thirty Horsemen well mounted came from one of the Emirs, to tell the Caravan-Bashi that he must stop his Caravan. We staid im­patiently for him three days; and at length he came, and was presented by the Caravan-Bashi with a piece of Satin, half a piece of Searlet Cloth; and two large Copper Cauldrons. Now although those Cauldrons could not but be very acceptable to an Arabian Prince, who most certainly had none such in his Kitchin, yet he did not seem contented with his Present, and demanded above four hundred Crowns. We contested seven or eight days to have kept our Money in our Pockets, but in vain; so that we were forc'd to rate one another, and to raise him his Sum; which being paid, he treated the chief of the Caravan with Pilaw, Honey, and Dates, and when he went away, gave them five or six Sheep ready boyl'd.

Three days after we had left this Arabian Prince, we met with two Wells near certain old decay'd Brick Buildings. The Water of those Wells was so hitter, that the Camels would not drink it: however we fill'd our Borache's, thinking [Page 62] it would have left its bitterness by being boyl'd: but we found the contrary.

From those two Wells that were good for nothing, we travel'd six days before we met with any Water, which with the three days before, made nine; and all that time the Camels never drank, as I have hinted already. At the end of nine days we cross'd a Hilly Country for three Leagues together, at the feet of three of which Hills there were three standing Pools. The Camels, that smelt the Water half a League off, put themselves upon their great trot, which is their manner of running, and no sooner came to the Pools but they crouded in all together, which caus'd the Water to be thick and muddy. Thereupon the Caravan-Bashi resolv'd to stay there two or three days together, 'till the Water was setl'd. Here we had also the opportunity to boyl us some Rice, there being good store of Bushes that grew about the Lake. But above all, the People were over-joy'd that they had an opportunity to make Bread, which they do after the following manner. First they dig a round Hole in the Ground, half a Foot deep, and two or three in diameter, which they croud full of Bushes, and then set them on fire, covering them with Bricks or Stones 'till they are red-hot. In the mean while they prepare their Dough upon a Sofra, or round piece of Copper, which serves at other times for Table and Table-Cloth to eat upon. Then they take away the Ashes and Bricks, and making the Hole very clean, put in their Dough, and cov'ring it again with the hot Bricks or Stones, leave it so 'till the morning. The Bread thus bak'd is very well tasted, not being above two Fingers thick, and as big as an ordinary Cake.

While we stay'd at the three Ponds, I spent my time in killing Hares and Par­tridge, of which there was very great plenty in those parts. The night before we departed we fill'd our Boracho's again, the Water being very good and clear; though it be nothing but Rain-water preserv'd in those Cavities, which in the Summer are dry again.

But now the Caravan-Bashi, seeing we had travel'd already nine days without finding any Water, resolv'd to leave the South, and to keep to the West; and if he met not with Water in two or three days, to take to the North-East, or Winter-East, in quest of the River Euphrates.

Two days after we had chang'd our Road, we pass'd between two little Hills, where we met with a Pond, near to which were two Arabians, each with his Wife and Children, tending a Herd of Goats and a Flock of Sheep. They told us they were going toward Moussui, and put us in the best Road to find Water; and indeed, from that place to Balsara, we never travel'd three days together, but we met with enough.

Five days after we had left those two Arabians, we discover'd a large Palace all of Brick; which shew'd some probability, that the Country had been formerly sow'd, and that the Bricks had been burnt with the Straw. To the Palace belong'd three large Courts; in every one of which were fair Buildings, with two Stories of Arches, one-upon another. Though this large Pile was standing, yet no body liv'd in it, nor could the Arabians, very ignorant in Antiquity, tell us by whom it was built. Before the Gate of the Palace there is a Lake with a Channel, the bottom whereof is brick'd, as also the Arch, which is even with the Ground. This the Arabians believe to have been a conveyance of Water from Euphrates: which surely could never be, in regard that Euphrates is above twenty Leagues distant.

From that Palace we kept to the North-East, and after we had travel'd five days, we arriv'd at a pitiful Town, formerly call'd Cufa, now Meched-Ali, where Ali, Mahomet's Son-in-law lyes buried in a plain Mosquee. Generally there stand four Tapers lighted about the Tomb, and certain Lamps burning over-head, which are fasten'd to the Roof.

Though the Persians have Ali in so much veneration, yet they rarely go in Pil­grimage to his Tomb. The reason is, because that there being no way to come at it, but through Bagdat, which is under the Dominion of the Great Turk, there is a demand of eight Piaesters from every Pilgrim; which is an Imposition that no way pleases the King of Persia. Sha-Abas scorning that his Subjects should be tributary to the Turks, endeavour'd to divert them from this Pilgrimage by another sort of Devotion, which he set up at Meshéed, upon the Road from Tauris to Candahar. Nor have the Kings his Successors been less unwilling to give their Subjects leave to visit their Prophet Ali, taking it for an Affront to pay Tribute to the Grand Signor. [Page 63] Which is the reason that this Mosquee is no more enrich'd by the Persians. For besides the Lamps and Tapers that burn continually, there are only two Moullah's that read the Alcoran according to custom. In this Town there are only three or four bad Wells of brackish Water, and a dry Channel, which they say Sha-Abas made to bring the Water of Euphrates to the Town for the benefit of the Pilgrims. As for Food, we met with nothing but Dates, Grapes, and Almonds, which the people sold at a dear rate. When any Pilgrims come thither, which is very rare, and that they want Victuals, the Sheck causes a distribution to be made among them of Rice boyl'd with Water and Salt, and a little Butter pour'd a top. For there is no Pasturage for Cattel, and by consequence there can be no store of Food.

Two days journey from Ali's Town, by nine of the Clock in the morning we met two young Arabian Lords that took upon them the name of Sultans. They were two Brothers, one of the age of seventeen years, the other of thirteen; and as we pitch'd our Tents, they pitch'd theirs close by us; which were of a very fine Scarlet Cloth; and among the rest there was one cover'd with Purple Velvet, lac'd with a rich Galoon-lace. So soon as they were setl'd in their Tents, the Caravan-Bashi and I went to wait upon them; who understanding that there were Franks in the Caravan, ask'd me whether I had any Curiosities to sell them; but when I made them answer that I had nothing worthy their purchase, they would not believe me, and therefore commanded the Caravan-Bashi to fetch my Trunks, that they might be open'd in their presence. While they were opening, one of the chief persons about those Princes would not suffer any of the rest of the Arabs to come near, for though most of the Arabs are great Thieves, yet some of them are persons of great integrity. Now I had in my company a young Painter, who had in his Chest several engrav'd Cuts, part Landskips, part Figures, together with the Pictures of certain Courtisans drawn to the Wast. The young Lords made choice only of twenty of those Courtisans, which I would have presented to them; but they gave me to understand, that they knew how to pay for what they had, and especially the youngest, who seem'd to be very generous; him I pleas'd in an extraordinary manner; for his Teeth being very foul, I order'd a Chirurgeon that I carry'd along with me at the same time to clean them, which he did to the great satisfaction of the young Prince. Thereupon they sent me and my Train, of their best Victuals they had. The Caravan-Bashi presented them with half a piece of Scarlet, and two pieces of Tissue of Gold and Silver. When we were ready to go, the young Sultan gave me twelve Ducats for my Pictures, and sent the Caravan-Bashi and my self two Frails of the best Dates that we had met with since we lest Aleppo.

About midnight the Princes dislodg'd, and took to the North, toward Euphrates. We set forward after them, driving Northward toward the same River. After we had travel'd four days we met one of the most potent Emirs of Arabia, who coming from the South, and going Northward, was to cross the Road that we kept. He was about fifty years of age, well made, and of a comely presence. He had not then above two thousand Horse, of thirty thousand which we heard had pass'd by some days before. Behind the two thousand Horse were fifty Camels that carry'd his Women; their Cajavas being cover'd with Scarlet-cloth fring'd with Silk. In the midst of these Camels there were six encompass'd with Eunuchs, the Fringes of the Cajavas being Silk, Silver, and Gold. The Arabians do not seem to be jealous of their Wives, as in Turkie and other places; for they led their Camels by our Caravan, never requiring us to retire, as is the custom in other places. They lodg'd a quarter of a League off, where we thought to have pitch'd, for the conveniency of two or three Ponds, which they depriv'd us of. This Arabian Prince had a great number of lovely Horses richly harness'd: others he had that were neither sadl'd nor bridl'd, yet the Riders would turn them with a Wand which way they pleas'd, and upon a full gallop would stop 'em, by only holding them by the Hair. He had some Horses of an excessive price; and this is to be observ'd, that they are never shod.

The Caravan-Bashi believing he should not escape scot-free from so powerful a Prince, among the Merchants of the Caravan found out a rich Saddle, with Bridle and Stirrups, which were all set out and garnish'd with massy Silver, with an [Page 64] embroider'd Quiver full of Arrows, together with a Buckler, the whole coming to about eleven or twelve hundred Livers; and adding to these of his own a piece of Scarlet, four pieces of Tissue of Gold and Silk, and six pieces of Tissue of Silver and Silk, made a Present of all together to the Emir. But he refus'd all, demanding only two hundred thousand Piasters for Larins: which exchange being no way for the Merchants profit, rais'd a great dispute. But at length, considering that it was in his power to stop and starve us there, we only endeavour'd a Composition; which was obtain'd. Thereupon he took the Present, which perhaps he would not else have done. For two days that we staid to weigh the Money, he sent Provisions to the chief of the Caravan; and at our departure, he sent us twelve Frails of Dates, and four young Camels that might be worth about forty Crowns a-piece.

Two days after we met a Schek, who among the Arabians is one of the chief of the Law. He was going to Mecca, cross some part of Arabia the Happy, with a Train of ten or twelve Camels. He staid all night with us, and one of his Servants having been dangerously wounded about two days before with a Musket-bullet, my Chirurgeon drest him, and gave him Salve and Tents, for which he was extremely thankful. He sent me to Supper a great Dish of Pilaw, and the next day a whole Sheep. The Caravan-Bashi likewise presented him with two Ells of Scarlet.

The next we met with nothing worth observation, but the day following we met another Emir, of about Five and Twenty years of age, who came from Euphrates, and was travelling into the Happy Arabia. He had with him about five hundred Horse, and three hundred Camels that carry'd his women. He pre­sently sent to know what Caravan it was, and understanding that it consisted of many Franks, among whom there was a Chirurgeon: He sent again to desire the Caravan Bashi to follow with the Caravan, to the place where he intended to pitch his Tents, which was not far out of the way. We did not think to have gone so far that day, but he led us to the best water in all the Desert. The Princes Tent being set up, he sent for my Chirurgeon, with whom I went along to know what his pleasure was. He had upon his left Arm a Tetter, with a most filthy Scab as broad as a Crown piece; and this went and came at certain times in the year. He presently ask'd the Chirurgeon whether he could cure him? to whom the Chirurgeon made answer, that the cure was not impossible, provided he knew where to get such remedies as were convenient: For had he said, he could have abso­lutely cur'd him, the Emir would have carry'd him away with him, without any farther Ceremony. Thereupon he would have giv'n the Chirurgeon five hun­dred Crowns to have bought Medicines. But I made answer, that the cure would not cost so much, and that if the Chirurgeon could meet with proper Drugs, I would lay out the Money my self. The Emir content with that answer, sent one of his chief People to Balsara, to come back with the Chirurgeon, when he had bought his Medicines. He himself stay'd three days in expectation of him; but after we had pretended to seek for what we wanted, up and down the Town (for we enquired for such things as we knew were not to be had) we sent him back word that we could not find what we look'd for, and desir'd his excuse, in regard the attendance of the Chirurgeon would be of no use, where he had not proper remedies; which was the only way we could think of, to get cleverly rid of him.

The next days Journey after we had left the Arabian Prince, was through a Country altogether uninhabited; but the day following, which was the sixty-fifth and last day of our being in the Desert, we met after some time, with the ruines of some houses on both sides the way; which made us conjecture, that some great City had stood formerly in that place.

At length we came to Balsara, which I shall describe in another place.

While I stay'd at Balsara, which was about three weeks, an Ambassador from the Great Mogul arriv'd there, who from Constantinople went to Bagdat to congra­tulate the Grand Signor for the Conquest of that City which he had taken in so short a time. The Emperour presented him with three stately Horses, and a little Watch, the Case whereof was set with Diamonds and Rubies. But the Ambas­sador not knowing what belong'd to that little Engin, winding it up the wrong way, broke the string. Coming to Balsara he sent to the Carmelites to desire them to mend his Watch; for he fear'd the loss of his head, should he return to his [Page 65] Master and not shew him the Watch entire. It wat at their House that I then lay; and therefore not knowing what to do with it, they desir'd me to shew my skill: Thereupon I put on a new string. But the Ambassador when he understood to whom he was beholding, though it were but a trifle, profer'd me all the service and kindness imaginable. Thereupon the Carmelites and Augustin Fryars desir'd me to request of the Ambassador in their behalf, that he would obtain the Great Turks protection for them, in case he took Balsara, that their Houses and Churches might be preserv'd; which I did, and obtain'd by his means full pro­tection from the Grand Visier. But they had no need of it, for the Turks did not make any attempt upon Balsara, hearing that the Persians were advancing; besides that the rainy season was at hand, which will not permit an Army to keep the Field: So that had Bagdat held out eight days longer; the Grand Signor would have been constrain'd to have rais'd the Siege.

Having spoken of the Arabian Horses; I must needs say, that there are some that are valu'd at a very high rate. The Mogul's Ambassador gave for some three, four, and six thousand Crowns, and for another he offer'd eight thousand Crowns, but the Horse would not be sold under ten, and so he left it. When he was got home into the Indies, and had presented the Mogul those Horses which he had carry'd along with him, being very lovely Creatures; he told his Master how he had offer'd eight thousand Crowns for a Horse more beautiful than any of them; but because the Owner would not let him go under ten, he left him. The King incens'd that his Ambassador had stood for so small a Sum, when it was for one of the greatest Monarchs in the World, upbraided the poorness of his Spirit, and banish'd him for ever from his presence, into a Province far distant from the Court. Thereupon the King wrote to the English to buy him the Horse, who accordingly did so, and brought him to Surat, where the Governour re-paid them their Money. But the Horse dy'd at Brampour.

Nor must I forget, that while I was at Balsara, twice there flew by such a pro­digious number of Locusts, that a-far-off they appear'd like a Cloud, and darkn'd the Air. They pass by Balsara four or five times in the year, the Wind carrying them into the Desert, where they alight, and most certainly dye. Should they not be thus wind-driv'n, there could nothing live upon the Earth in some parts of Chaldea. They swarm all along the Persian Gulf, and when the Vessels come to Ormus at the time of the year, there are little Shops where people sell Locusts fry'd in Butter to those that love that sort of Diet. Once I had the curiosity to open the Belly of a Locust six Inches long, and found therein seventeen little ones that stirr'd; whence it is easie to guess how those Insects come to be so numerous, espe­cially in hot Countries.

There are several Barks that go from Ormus to furnish both sides of the Persian Gulf, where the people eat neither Bread nor Rice. I agreed with the Master of one of these Barks, and made my agreement that the Bark should not be above half laden; for generally they lade them too deep, and in foul weather they are forc'd to throw half the Freight over-board, to save the rest.

From Balsara to the mouth of the River Euphrates, it is reck'nd to be twenty Leagues of Fresh-water. We staid seven whole days for a Wind, which proving favourable, we came to Brander-ric, in forty-eight hours. This is the place where you must land, if you intend for Persia, unless you are bound for Ormus. Brander-ric consists only of five or six little Fishers Hutts; which Hutts are only Hurdles set one against another, and cover'd over, where they and their Families live. To the same place come Asses lad'n with Dates, which I was forc'd to hire for want of Horses.

We were six days upon the Road from thence to Cazerom. This is a Mountainous Country, where there is Wood enough; but you must lodge in the Fields, for there are no Inns upon the Road. The way is pleasant in some places, along the Banks of several Rivulets, and through verdant Groves stor'd with great quantities of Turtles. We kill'd a good many; which we eat, part with Pilaw, instead of Henns; some we rosted; making Sticks to serve for Spits.

Cazerom is a little City ill built, where there is but one Inn, and that none of the most inviting to Strangers neither.

From Cazerom to Schiras it is five days journey. The Road lyes over very craggy [Page 66] Mountains, which had been impassable, but for the Liberality of Ali-Couli-Kan, Governour of Schiras. He made Ways where there were none before, and joyn'd Mountains together by Bridges, in Countries which otherwise had been inaccessible. In the midst of the Mountains is a wide gap or discontinuance, from whence a Plain extends it self of about twenty Leagues in circuit. It is inhabited by Jews only, who are Silk-Weavers. In these Mountains you meet with Tents, where the Chaldeans sojourn, that come for cool Air and Pasturage in the Summer.

Coming to Schiras, I took Horse there for Ispahan, where I arriv'd in nine days. The Country over which you travel, between these two Cities, is part Plains, part Mountains; part wild, and part manur'd. Three days journey from Schiras you pass the Mountain of Mayen, a little City where there is nothing worthy obser­vation. Two days journey from thence you enter upon the Plains of the Province of Cuscuzar, where the King of Persia keeps his Race-Horses. The next day I arriv'd at Yesdecas, where the best Bread in Persia is made. This is a little City upon a Rock, wherein there is a very fair Inn: at the foot whereof runs a little River that glides into the Valley, wherein grows that excellent Corn which is utter'd in Bread from that City.

In three days I went from Yesdecas to Ispahan. This was the first Road from Aleppo to Ispahan.

CHAP. IV. Of the Road from Aleppo to Ispahan, through Mesopotamia and Assyria, which I travel'd in my third Voyage to the In­dies.

I Departed from Paris in my third Voyage to the Indies upon the sixth of December 1643, and went to Ligorn, where I found the Dutch Fleet ready to set Sail for the Levant. The Vessel wherein I embark'd seeming rather a Man-of-War than a Merchant-Man. We pass'd through the Channel of Messina, and lay there at an Anchor four days before the City. From thence pas­sing by the Morea, we enter'd into the Archipelago, where the Fleet parted, ac­cording as every Ship was bound. Our Ship sayl'd directly for the Port of Alexan­dretta, but though the Wind were favourable, we were stop'd for some time by a Pirate that met with us off the Eastern Point of Candy. We endeavour'd to have got clear of him; but the Pirate gaining upon us, we made ready. Thereupon the Pirate gave us three Broad-sides, that went over the Ship without doing us any harm: which we answer'd by as many from our Ship, the first whereof brought his Fore-mast by the Board; and the third Shot went through the Fore-castle and kill'd him some Men, as far as we could discern. At that very instant one of our Mari­ners cry'd out from the Top-mast-head, A Sail from the South. Thereupon the Pirate left us, and made Sail after her: and we, glad of such an escape, pursu'd our Voyage to Alexandretta, where we happily arriv'd; from whence I took Horse for Aleppo, as I have already describ'd.

The sixth of March I departed from Aleppo in the company of two Capuchin Friars, Father Raphael and Father Yves, and a Venetian whose name was Dominico de Sanctis.

From Aleppo to Bir, where you cross the Euphrates, it is four days journey for the Horse-Caravan. The Country is well wooded, and well manur'd.

The seventh of March the great Rains that fell hinder'd us from getting to the usual Stage, so that we could not gain Telbechar, another Town, where there is no Inn: which constrain'd us to stop a League on this side, and to go to a Cave that was able to contain three hundred Horse. This is a Cave where the Bedouins or Feeders of Cattel thereabouts oft retire, who live after the manner of the Arabs, either in Rocks or in poor Hutts. The Cave has been hollow'd from time to time, there being several Niches in it like little Chambers. Our Caravan-Bashi fearing [Page 67] some Ambuscade, rode thither before to view the place, but finding it empty and free, we rested there that night, and the next night came to lye at Mezara, which is only a small Village without an Inn: Neither was there any thing remarkable upon that Road. Only that near the Cave, in the Mountain, there is very good Water: And formerly upon the Mountain stood a Castle, of which some ruines are still re­maining. From the top of the Mountain there is a fair Prospect as far as you can see, over very fair Plains on every side, and in several places very good Land, water'd by divers Channels which are brought from the River Euphrates. All the Rivolets also that you cross from Aleppo to Bir come from the same River.

The fourth day after we parted from Aleppo, being the ninth of March, we came to the banks of Euphrates. Bir is on the other side of the River; and be­cause that sometimes the Goods cannot be unladen all in a day; there is a fair and large Inn, to defend the Merchants from the Bedoüins, which would else disturb and rob them, were not they and their Goods in that manner secur'd.

You cross the Euphrates in large Ferry Boats, and as soon as you are got over the other side of the River, the Customer and his Officers comes and tells the Bales, and writes down the names of the Merchants to whom they belong. The Caravan does not lye in the Town, which is built like an Amphitheatre upon the brow of a very craggy Mountain, but passes forward over a scurvy Road to an Inn upon the top of the Mountain. Near the Inn there are several Chambers cut out of the Rock, where they that cannot get room in the Inn are forc'd to lye. That Evening the Custom-Officer comes to receive his duties, being two Piasters upon every load of Goods, whether upon Horse or Mule, though the Mules carry more than the Horses; and half a Piaster for every Beast that carries Provisions. But for Saddle Horses or Mules there is nothing demanded.

The Bir, or Berygeon, as the Natives call it, is a large City for an Eastern City, scituated upon the brow of a Hill. Below upon the River stands a Castle that de­clares its Antiquity; it is half as long as the City, but narrow, and without any other Fortification, saving only a Tower that scours the River, in which there are eight or nine pitiful Culverins. In the highest part of the Town stands another Castle where the Governour resides, who is an Aga, whom some call a Basha, having un­der him two hundred Janizaries, and four hundred Spahi's. The City is ill built, as are the most part of the Cities of Turkie: But there are an extraordinary plenty of all things, excellent Bread, good Wine, and great store of the best sort of Fish.

The tenth day after we had travel'd elev'n hours in the first Lands of Mesopo­tamia, that lyes between the two Rivers Euphrates and Tigre, which at present they call Diarbek, we came in the evening to Sharmely. This is a very good Town, with a fair Inn, and Baths round about it. About twice Musquet-Shot from thence, stands a Mountain alone by it self, like Montmartre near Paris: Round about it are Plains, and at the top of it stands a Fortress, with a Garrison of two hundred Spahi's, by reason that the Arabs sometimes cross Euphrates, and make incursions upon that side. In the year 1631, the Grand Vizier retur­ning from Bagdat, where he had lost the greatest part of the Grand Signor's Army, not being able to take the City; fearing the loss of his head if he return'd to Con­stantinople, and knowing himself to be in great esteem among the Souldiers, re­solv'd to quarter himself upon this Mountain, and to erect a Fortress to secure himself from the tempest that threaten'd him. No doubt but'l if he could have brought about his design, he might have made himself Master of all Mesopotamia, and would have put the Grand Signor to a great deal of trouble. For if you in­tend for Aleppo, whither it be from Tauris, Mossul, or Bagdat, unless you travel tho­rough the Desert, you must pass through Sharmely, under the command of this Fortress, for Provision and Waters sake. The work was gone so far forward, that there was a good defence rais'd, and the Vizier had already enclos'd all the Mountain together with the Inn, with a Wall almost twenty foot thick, and three fathom high, when he was strangl'd by those in whom he most confided, the Grand Signor having gain'd them either by threats or by rewards.

The eleventh, after a Journey of ten hours we came to Ourfa, where the Cara­van usually stays eight or ten days; for here it is that they live that hire the Horses and the Mules, who have always some business in this place. We lay at an Inn [Page 68] three or four hundred paces distant from the City toward the North. When the Inn is full, the rest retire into the Grotto's which are near at hand, and are very good quarters. Here the Toll-gatherer presently comes and counts the Bales without op'ning them. They that carry any Sacks must pay for half a Load; if not, he op'ns the Sack to see if there be any Merchandise therein, for then the Merchant must pay the whole duty.

Ourfa is the Capital City of Mesopotamia, built as they say, in the same place where Abraham liv'd, and where stood the ancient Edessa, where the people of the Country report, that King Abagarus generally kept his Court. There are still to be seen the ruines of a Castle; from whence they add, that the same King sent to CHRIST for his Picture, and offer'd him his Kingdom and his people to defend him against the Jews, whom he understood to be his Enemies. The Chronicles of the Armenians report, that Abagarus was their Country-man, and that in his Reign they began to be Christians, and to be Baptiz'd by the hands of an Apostle, whom CHRIST sent to that Prince after his Resurrection. * Neither is this Castle yet so far ruin'd, but that there is still to be seen a spacious Hall, and three or four hand­som Rooms with some relicks of Mosaick work. I was curious to see what ever was remarkable in this City. And first they led me to a large Fountain which re­sembles a Fish-pond, the Spring whereof is under the Foundations of the principal Mosquèe, which was built in the honour of Abraham. The Christians of the Coun­try say, that it was in that place where he pray'd, before he went about to Sacri­fice his Son Isaac, and that two Springs of Water arose from the two places where he rested his knees, which now feed the large Fountain I have made mention of. It is pav'd with Free-stone, and so full of fish, that if you throw them in a little Bread, they will follow you from place to place as you walk by the side of the Pond. There is no medling with them; for the Turks have a great veneration for those Fish which they call Abraham's Fish. Besides that, the place about the Fountain where the water wid'ns it self to water all the City, is cover'd with very fair Carpets, for about twenty paces in bredth. This Fountain at length falls into a little River that runs by the Walls. As for the Grotto where the two Springs rise, there is no going into it before you have pull'd off your Shooes, and it is a great favour for a Christian to see it; such a favour as cost me six Piasters. I also saw the Church, under the portal whereof, they say, St. Alexis liv'd seventeen years a private life. It stands in the middle of a Church-yard, in the highest part of the Town, in the possession of the Armenians. But their principal Church is about a quarter of an hours walking from the City, built by St. Ephren, who is there buried. The Monastery stands yet entire, enclos'd with fair Walls. In the Church I saw a large Bible in Armenian Characters. The Sepulchre of St. Ephren is in a Cave at the foot of the Mountain, to which there also belongs a Chappel, where they keep three or four Lamps continually burning. There are other Grotto's up and down the Mountain, where are to be seen very ancient Sepulchers of the Christians. The City of Ourfa is seated in a good soil, very well manur'd, which extends it self out of sight to­ward the East. There are several pleasant Gardens near the walls, water'd by little Channels brought thither by Art. The soil produces good Wine, so that a man may live as well at Ourfa, as in any part of Turkie. While I stay'd there, I kill'd abundance of Feldfares in those Gardens; and indeed there is great store of wild Fowl all the Country over. The Walls of the City are of Freestone, with Battlements and Towers; but within, the houses are small, ill built, and ruinous: And there are several void spaces in the City, which makes Ourfa to look rather like a Desert than a Metropolis. The City is Govern'd by a Basha, who has under him a hundred and fifty Janizaries, and six hundred Spahi's, standing more in need of Cavalry than Infantry, by reason of the Incursions of the Arabians, especially in Harvest time. In short, Ourfa is the place were they dress such great quanti­ties of Cordovan Skins, by reason of the waters particular to the Country, which give them that peculiar beauty. The Yellow Skins are drest at Ourfa, the Blew at Tocat, and the red Rat Diarbequir.

The twentieth of March, we set out of Ourfa, and after a Journey of six hours, we lay at a pittiful Village where the Inn was fal'n all to decay. There is a Foun­tain of excellent water by it, which is all the convenience of the place, for there is no Provision to be had.

[Page 69] The twenty-first we travel'd nine hours, and came to lye near several Caverns which are very deep; at the entry whereof there are little Rooms, which are sup­pos'd to be the places where the People of the Country liv'd that fed their Cattel thereabouts. There is also Rain-Water to be had in some of the Concavities of the Rock. Half this days journey you must pass over Rocks, where it is almost impos­sible, and very dangerous to keep your Horses back.

The twenty-second, having travel'd eleven hours, we lodg'd near a Cavern, having forded a River that runs at the foot of it. There are two great Grotto's on each side, where Travellers take up their Quarters, and whither the Natives of the Country bring Provisions both for Horse and Man. The Toll-gatherers, coming from a Fort about three Leagues distant from these Caverns, here exact two Piasters and a half for every Horse and Mules Load; and search your Sacks, to see if there be no Merchantable Goods therein. About half the way of this days journey you meet with a City quite deserted by the Inhabitants; and about an hours march after that, with Tombs of Stone, in the middle whereof stands a Cross, with Armenian Cha­racters.

The twenty-third we travel'd elev'n hours, and lay at Dadacardin. This appears to have been a great Town, but is all ruin'd: nor is there any thing remaining but a long Stone-Bridge very well built, under which runs a River that is very broad when it overflows. The People of the Country have no other Habitations than the Hollows of Rocks; yet they bring to the Travellers Hens, Butter, Cheese, and other Provisions which they sell very cheap.

The twenty-fourth we travel'd nine hours, and lay at a place call'd Cara, built upon a Hill. The Caravan lay at the Inn; but the two Capuchins and I lay at a private Christian's House, who carry'd us to the Church, where was then the Ver­tabet or Bishop of Merdin. It was a pitiful poor Church, where they had nothing but two Planks supported with four Sticks instead of an Altar. They dare not leave any Furniture in it; but as soon as the Priest has said Service, he must have a care to take away every thing, as well the Planks as the Covering of the Altar, which was only a Painted Cloth: For the Turks that travel that way, if it be foul weather, will break open the Door, put their Horses there, burn the Altar, and take away whatever they find.

In the Village where we lay, there was a Pond, the sides whereof were sur­rounded with fair Free-stones, which were fetch'd from the Christian Churches, and the Tombs of the Christians thereabouts. Among the rest, there was one very large Stone, with an Epitaph upon it in large Latin Letters; whereby we knew it to be the Tomb-stone of a Norman Gentleman, who had been a Captain of Foot. The Bishop inform'd us, that it is recorded in the Armenian Stories, that the French were a long time in this Country, at what time the Christians were Masters of Syria. This Country is all a large Plain, about twenty Leagues in length; which might be well manur'd, and make the Inhabitants rich, did not the Tyranny of the Turks, and the Incursions of the Arabs reduce them to the utmost degree of Poverty.

The twenty-fifth, after we had travel'd eight hours, we lay at a Village call'd Cousasar, where there was no Inn. There were formerly three great Monasteries, a quarter of a League one from the other. The Turks have ruin'd two, all but the Steeples of the Churches that belong'd to them. The third, which stands all entire, and is the fairest Pile of Building, serves for a Mosquee. They have made Shops round about the Cloysters, in the middle of which is a fair Spring of Water.

The twenty-seventh we lay still at Cousasar, being the place where you must pay the Customs of Diarbequir, which is not above two days journey off, amounting to two Piasters and a fourth part, for every Load of Merchants Goods.

Merdin is not above two Leagues from Cousasar. This is a little City seated upon a Mountain, with good Walls, and a fair Fountain replenish'd from the Castle; which stands upon the North side, in a place yet higher, that commands the City; where there lives a Basha, who has under him two hundred Spahi's, and four hun­dred Janizaries. Merdin is the place where was born the Lady Maani Gioerida, the first Wife of Pietro de la Valle, so well known for his famous Travels.

As for Cousasar, which is a large Village, it is inhabited for the most part by Ar­menian Christians and Nestorians. The Armenians perform Divine Service in their own Language; the Nestorians in the Chaldaïc. The latter shew'd me two Bibles [Page 70] in a large Volume, in the same Language, writt'n in Vellum, all the Capital Letters being in Gold and Azure. They seem'd to be very old; and one of their Priests told me, that it is 937 years ago since one of them was writt'n; the other not above 374 since. When Service is done, they put them in a Chest, and hide them under Ground. I would have giv'n 200 Piasters for the oldest, but they durst not sell it, in regard it belong'd to the Church, and was not at their disposal.

The twenty-seventh, after we had travel'd nine hours, we arriv'd at Karasara, which had been formerly a great Town, and no doubt inhabited by Christians; as appears by seven or eight Churches half ruin'd, though the Steeples are little the worse. They stand at a good distance one from the other; and upon the North-side of one of those Churches there is a Gallery, at the end whereof, through a little Door you descend about a hundred Steps, every Step being ten Inches thick. When you come under the Church, you meet with a larger and bigger Vault, supported with Pillars. The Building is so contriv'd, that there is more light below than in that above; but of late years the Earth has stop'd up several Windows. The great Altar is in the Rock; on the right side whereof is a Room, which receives the light from several Windows contriv'd in the Rock. Over the Gate of the Church was a great Free-stone, wherein were certain Letters that I could not read. On the North-side of the same Church under Ground are to be seen two great Cisterns, each four hundred and fifty Paces long; with two great Arches, sustain'd with several Pillars. Every year they fill them with the Water that falls from the next Mountain, and makes a kind of a River. A quarter of a League from the Church, you descend the Mountain for above a hundred Paces together among the Rocks, on each side whereof are Rooms cut out of the Rock. Upon every Door there is a Cross; and in every Room as it were a Bench, and a Table, with a little place about the length of a Man, like a Bedsted, all cut out of the Rock. At the bottom of the Rock is a Hall, round about the Wall whereof is a Bench to sit on. The Roof is all plain, without any Arch; in the middle whereof there is a Hole to the top of the Moun­tain: but in regard it gives no light, 'tis very probable 'twas only made to let out the Smoak when they drest their Meat; or else to let in the fresh Air, as I have seen in many Villages upon the Persian Gulf. Upon the highest of those Mountains stands a paltry Village, where they buy their Victuals. But before the Caravan arrives, certain Merchants ride before to inform themselves from the Herdsmen, whether they know of any Thieves in the Grotto's, that often hide themselves there in expectation of Prey.

In the year 1638, Sultan Amur at going to besiege Babylon, march'd this very way, as well to see these Ruines, as to give order for the demolishing a Fort that stood not above two Leagues off of Karasera, which the Thieves of the Country made their place of retreat. He also at the same time caus'd the Road to be clear'd for four days journey, by ord'ring the Stones to be pickt up and laid in heaps, all along the Road. He also built a Bridge over the River. And indeed, that March of the Grand Signor was very advantageous to all Travellers that pass this way.

The twenty-eighth we travel'd eight hours, and came to Nesbin, anciently Ni­sibis. Two or three hours travel on this side, near the Road, is a kind of Hermitage, being a small Room enclos'd with Walls, the Door whereof is so low, that a Man must creep upon his Belly to get in. Three or four Jews went and perform'd their Devotions at this Hermitage, believing it to be the place where the Prophet Elisha was buried.

The Country from Cousasar to Nesbin is a large Plain, where for the first days journey you shall see no other green Herb upon the Ground but only Pimpernel; the Roots whereof are so large, that there are some a Foot and a half in diameter. The next day, the Fields are cover'd with a large thick Leaf, the Root whereof is bulbous, and as big as an Egg. There are also great store of yellow, red, and violet Flowers, Tulips of several colours, Emonies, and single Daffadillies. But in general Mesopotamia is a very barren Country, and there are very few places that can be better'd by Art or Industry.

Nesbin is only the Shadow of the ancient Nisibis, being now only a large Village; the Inhabitants whereof are Christians, both Armenians and Nestorians. Our Ca­ravan lodg'd a little beyond, in a Church-yard adjoyning to one of the Armenian Churches. The next day, hearing people sing, I went to the Church with the two [Page 71] Capuchins, where I saw an Armenian Bishop, with his Miter, and a wooden Crosier, accompany'd with several Priests and a good Congregation. When Service was done, after some few Compliments between us, he led us down under the Church into a Chappel, where he shew'd us the Sepulcher of St. James Bishop of Nisibis. In the Church-yard is a Stone about a Foot thick, and six high; upon which were laid several Candles of Wax and Tallow, which the Poor Offer in their Necessities, but especially in their Sicknesses. They believe that Stone to have been the Pedestal for the Statue of some Saint, which the Turks have defac'd: so that they give the same Honour to the Pedestal, as they would have giv'n to the Statue. There are also some Roman Characters to be seen, but half worn out, and spaces brok'n off in some parts: so that I could not learn, in Honour of whom that Statue was erected. Half a League from Nisbin runs a River, which you cross, over a Stone-Bridge. In the way to the River are several pieces of Wall, with an Arch, which made me con­jecture, that formerly the City extended as far as the River.

Twice Musket-shot from the River, you meet with a Stone, half buried, upon which are written certain Latin Words; whereby it appears that it was the Tomb­stone of the General of an Army that was a French-man: but I could not read his Name, which time had desac'd. The same Bishop inform'd us, that formerly the Moors having besieg'd the City, there came such a prodigious company of strange Flyes, and did so torment both Men and Horses, that they were forc'd to raise the Siege. You must pay the same Toll at Nisbin as in other places, that is, two Piasters and a half, for every Mule or Horses Load. We lay there three days toge­ther, to furnish our selves with Provisions 'till we came to Moussul, which is five days journey from Nisbin; the Country between being altogether desert and uninha­bited. There is no Water to be found but in two places, and that not very good neither; near to which you shall see some few Herdsmen grazing their Cattel.

The first of April we departed from Nisbin; and after we had travel'd eleven hours, we lay near to a River, whither certain Shepherds brought us Hens to sell.

The second we travel'd ten hours, and lay at a paltry Town, where we met with nothing to eat.

The third we travel'd thirteen hours, and lodg'd by a pitiful Fountain, the Water whereof was hardly good enough for our Horses.

The fourth we travel'd ten hours, and came to lodge by the Bank of a little River, near to which appear'd the Ruines of a Bridge and a Castle.

The fifth we travel'd eleven hours, to reach Moussul, which is not far from the ancient Niniveh.

Moussul is a City that makes a great shew without, the Walls being of Free-stone; but within it is almost all ruin'd, having only two blind Market-places, with a little Castle upon the Tigris, where the Basha lives. In a word, there is nothing worth a Man's sight in Moussul, the place being only considerable for the great concourse of Merchants; especially the Arabians and Curds, which are the Inha­bitants of the ancient Assyria, now call'd Curdistan, where there grows great plenty of Galls, and for which there is a great Trade. There are in it four sorts of Christians, Greeks, Armenians, Nestorians, and Maronites. The Capuchins had a pretty Dwelling upon the Tigris; but the Basha laying a Fine upon them, because they went about a little to enlarge it, they were forc'd to quit it. The City is govern'd by a Basha, that has under him, part Janizaries, part Spahi's, about three thousand Men.

There are only two scurvy Inns in Moussul, which being full when we came, I caus'd my Tent to be set up at the Meydan, or great Market-place.

Now to say something in general of the difference of the two Rivers, Tigris and Euphrates, in reference to their Course and Waters: I observ'd that the Water of Euphrates appear'd somewhat red; and that the Stream was not so swift as that of Tigris, which seem'd to be whitish, like the Loire. As for its Course, Euphrates runs a far longer way than Tigris. But now let us cross the Tigris, over a Bridge of Boats, to view the sad Ruines of a City that has made such a noise in the World; though there be now scarce any appearance of its ancient splendour.

Niniveh was built upon the left Shoar of the Tigris, upon Assyria-side, being now only a heap of Rubbish extending almost a League along the River. There are [Page 72] abundance of Vaults and Caverns uninhabited; nor could a man well conjecture whether they were the ancient Habitations of the people, or whether any houses had been built upon them in former times; for most of the houses in Turkie are like Cellars, or else but one Story high. Half a League from Tigris stands a little Hill encompas'd with Houses, on the top whereof is built a Mosquée. The people of the Country say 'twas the place where Jonas was bury'd; and for that place they have so great a veneration, that no Christians are suffer'd to enter into it, but pri­vately, and for Money. By that means I got in with two Capuchin Fryars; but we were forc'd to put off our Shooes first. In the middle of the Mosquée stood a Sepulchre, cover'd with a Persian Carpet of Silk and Silver, and at the four cor­ners, great Copper Candlesticks with Wax Tapers, besides several Lamps and Ostridge-Shells that hung down from the Roof. We saw a great number of Moores without, and within sat two Dervi's reading the Alcoran.

About a Musket-Shot from Moussul toward the North-East, stands a great Ruin'd Monastery, enclos'd with high Walls, the greatest part whereof is still to be seen.

We stay'd ten days at Moussul, and having provided all things ready for the rest of our Journey, we set forward for Ispahan.

CHAP. V. A Continuation of the Road from Nineveh to Ispahan: Together with the Story of an Ambassador, call'd Dominico de Santis.

HAving pass'd the Tigris, we stay'd three quarters of an hours Journey from Nineveh for some Merchants that were to go along with the Cara­van. The way which we took was not the usual Road to Persia; but it was a way wherein there were less Duties to be paid; and besides, it was a short cut, the Caravan making but fifty-eight days Journey between Aleppo and Ispahan. From the very banks of the River to the place where we Lodg'd that Evening, we saw nothing but continu'd Ruines, which makes me believe, it was the place where the ancient Nineveh stood.

We stay'd two days near the Mosquée, where according to the tradition of the Turks, Jonas was bury'd, and made choice of a Curd, or Assyrian for our Cara­van-Basbi, though the people are generally Thieves, and must be carefully look'd after. But it was a piece of Policy, because we were to cross the ancient Assyria, now call'd Curdistan; the Language of which Country is a particular Speech.

In the two first days Journey we cross'd two small Rivers that fall from the Moun­tains, and empty themselves into Tigris. Our first Journey was through a plain Country all along by the side of a little River; and the second Evening we lodg'd by the side of a great River that falls from the Mountains toward the North, and running to the South, discharges it self into Tigris. It is call'd Bohrus, being a very rapid Stream, full of Fish, but more especially excellent Trouts. The Caravan was two days passing that River, by reason there were no Boats. For the people are forc'd to tye long Perches four or five together one upon another, which the Natives call a Kilet. They make it four-square, and put underneath it about a hundred Goat-Skins full of wind, to the end the Kilet may not touch the water. Besides the Merchant must be careful to spread good store of thick Felts over the Kilet, of which he must be provided to keep off the Water, least the Bales that sink the Kilet should take wet. At the four corners are four Perches that serve for Oars, though they avail but little against the force of the Tide; so that you must be forc'd to hale the Kilet four or five hundred Paces a' this side up the River, and then row down the Stream to the place where you intend to Land the Goods. When the Goods are Landed, the men are forc'd again to draw the Kilet by main strength out of the water, to take away the Goat-Skins which are then to be lad'n upon the Mules appoin­ted to carry them. As for the Horses, Mules, and Asses, as well those that carri'd [Page 73] the Goods, as those upon which the Men ride; so soon as the Herds-men thereabout see a Caravan coming, they stock to the River-side. Those people that wear nothing but a course piece of Linnen or a Goat-skin to cover their nakedness, take off their Cloaths and wind them about their Heads, like a Turbant. Then every one tyes a Goat-skin blow'd up under his Stomach; and then two or three of the most expert mounting the same number of the best Horses, which are bridl'd, put themselves first into the Water, while others follow them swimming, and drive the Horses before them; holding the Beast by the Tayl with one Hand, and switching him with the other. If they find any Horse or Ass that is too weak, they tye a Goat­skin under his Belly to help him. Considering which difficulties, it cannot take up less time than I have mention'd to get over a Caravan of five or six hundred Horses.

The Caravan being thus got over, for two or three days has but a very bad Road. The first days journey, the Horses were continually in the Water up to the mid-leg; and the second, and part of the third we travel'd through a very desert Country, where we met with very little food, for our Horses, and only a few Brakes to boyl our Rice. Having got over this bad way, we came to a River call'd the great Zarbe, over which we pass'd upon a Stone-Bridge of nine Arches. They report that this Bridge was built by Alexander the Great, in his March against Darius. A quarter of a League to the South-East, two Rivers meet, which empty themselves into Tigris. Lea­ving the Bridge, we came to a Town call'd Sherazoul, built upon a rising Ground, upon three Redoubts. There resides a Basha, who must be brib'd with a small Present to let the Caravan pass; we lay by the Banks of a River, and staid there two days. From thence we travel'd one days journey over dry Mountains, not finding any Water. But the next day we came into a pleasant Plain, stor'd with Fruit-trees. This was the Plain of Arbele, where Alexander defeated Darius; containing about fifteen Leagues in all. It is water'd with several Rivulets, and in the middle of the Mountain rises a little Hill about half a League in circuit. It is all over cover'd with the fairest Oaks that ever were seen; and on the top are the Ruines of a Castle, that seems to have been a sumptuous Structure. The Country-people say that Darius staid there while his Captains gave Battel to Alexander. Three Leagues from thence, near a great Mountain toward the North, are to be seen the Ruines of another Castle and several Houses, where they add, that Darius secur'd some of his Wives when he lost the Battel. This Castle is seated in a most lovely Prospect. At the foot of the Mountain rises a Spring, which a quarter of a League off swells into a River that bears good big Boats. It runs winding about the Mountains to the Southward; so that two days journey from the Hill, you cross it near a Town call'd Sherazoul, over a fair Stone-Bridge of nine Arches, whereof the Great Sha-Abas caus'd three to be brok'n down, after he had tak'n Bagdat.

This City of Sherazoul is built after another manner than any other of the Cities in those parts, being all cut out of a steep Rock for a quarter of a League together, so that you must go up to the Houses by Stairs of fifteen, or twenty steps, some­times more, sometimes less, according to the situation of the place. The people have no other Doors to their Houses than only a thin round Stone, like a Mill-stone, which they will roll away when they go in or out, the sides of the Wall being so cut as to receive the Stone like a Case, being level with the Rock.

The tops of their Houses are like Niches in the Mountain, where the Inhabi­tants have contriv'd Caves to keep their Cattel in: So that we judg'd it to be built for a place of safety to secure the Inhabitants from the Incursions of the Arabians and Bedouins of Mesopotamia.

We came to Sherazoul upon Easter-Eve, and staid there three days to refresh our selves, after a Lent which we had kept very sparingly. Here I found certain Springs that rose up in large Bubbles, which after I had mix'd with two Glasses of Wine and drank up, I found to have a Purgative quality, having a kind of Mineral tast. These Springs boyl up near the side of a River call'd Altun-sou, or, The River of Gold, that falls into the River Tigris, three days journey on this side Bagdat.

The next day we lay at a pitiful Town, upon the Frontiers of Turkie and Persia.

The next day, being the fifth after we set out from Niniveh, we pass'd over [Page 74] several Fenns and hot Waters, that part the two Empires. Entring thus into Persia, we met with a high Mountain cover'd with fair Oaks, which bear the Gall-Nuts, so high, that the Caravan was some hours ere it could get to the top. As we ascended, but especially when we were up, we heard several Muskets go off. At first we thought the people had been hunting the wild Boars or Stags, of which the Mountains are full: but the report of the Guns being too loud and too thick for Hunters, we stood upon our guard; and I believe we should have mended our paces, had we known what was intended us. Besides, I remember'd that the Country-people would not sell any thing but for Powder and Bullet, which the Caravan-Bashi advis'd me not to let them have, for fear they should make use of it against our selves. From the Mountain we descended into a fertil Plain, water'd with several Rivers; and night approaching, we set up our Tents, not fearing any thing, because we were in the Dominions of the King of Persia, where there is so much security in travelling. After that we sent our Servants to the Tents of the Country-men, but they brought us nothing but Bread made of Acorns, than which the poor people thereabouts eat no other. This Acorn is about the bigness of our Nuts; and once I met with a Branch that had thirty Acorns, and twenty-three Gall-Nuts, all at one time growing upon it.

The Province which we travel'd through then, compos'd the greatest part of the ancient Assyria. But now to come to the Story of Dominico de Santis the Ve­netian. He had Letters of Credence from the Pope, the Emperour, the King of Poland, and the Republick of Venice, to the King of Persia; and he went in the Caravan through the Grand Signor's Territories, never discovering himself who he was; but coming into Persia, he took upon him without fear the Title of Ambassa­dor from the Commonwealth of Venice.

From the Plain where we lodg'd, it is two days journey to a good big Town, to which belongs a Fortress, where the Governour of the Province has a Lieutenant, with about two thousand Horse under his Command. The Fortress is upon the right hand toward the South, after three hours riding upon the High-way. To this Lieutenant, the Caravan-Bashi was according to duty bound to give notice of the Arrival of the Caravan, and an account of the Persons and their Merchandize. This Venetian was a person ill fitted for the quality of an Ambassador, being a person of no Parts; which made me wonder that such great Princes, and so wise a Commonwealth should send such a person upon a Concern of that importance. For the Grand Signor then assailing Candy, he was sent to excite the King of Persia to engage him in a War against the Turk, thereby to keep off the Storm that threaten'd Christendom. Thereupon I told the Ambassador, that it was necessary for him to give the Commander of the Fort first notice of his coming, to the end he might give advice thereof to Solyman-Kan Governour of the Province, whose duty it was to advertise the King. Thereupon he requested me to send my Inter­preter, which I did. Upon whose intelligence the Lieutenant of the Fort came to Compliment the Ambassador on the behalf of the chief Commander, and to conduct him to the Castle.

Thereupon the Ambassador, my self, and my Interpreter, together with some Armenian Merchants went with him, travelling for three hours over the Mountains. By that time we came half the way, as we pass'd through a Wood, we heard as it were some person give a Whistle; at which when the Lieutenant perceiv'd us to be somewhat startl'd, he carry'd us to the place from whence the Whistle came, where we saw a Serpent about as big as a Man's Thigh, and about twelve Foot long, whose head was squeez'd between two Trees, that put him to pain. From that Mountain we descended into a pleasant Plain, where the Commander of the Fortress staid for us under his Tent. He had set it up by the side of a River, under the shade of several great Walnut-trees. So soon as he saw us, he rose from his great Silk Tapestry Coverlet, and saluted us in a most civil manner, telling us, that assuredly Sha-Abas, his Master, would be very glad to hear that the Monarchs of Christendom had sent him an Ambassador, and that he would write to Solyman-Kan, whose duty it was to advertise the Emperour. Thereupon he wrote and dispatch'd away a Messenger, giving him order to tell the Deroga, or Judge of the Town, through which we were to pass, that he should make Provision for us and our Horses 'till we came to the Governour. After he had ask'd us several Questions [Page 75] concerning the War between the Grand Signor and the Venetians, how many thou­sand men he had as well by Sea as Land, and what number of Galleys and Ships? wherein we satisfy'd him according to the best of our knowledge. After he had civilly treated us, he sent his Lieutenant back with us again to the Caravan. About ten a Clock the next night we dislodg'd, and the Lieutenant and six Souldiers attended upon us; who told us he had order not to leave us, 'till he had brought us to Solyman Kan.

The next night we lodg'd between two Hills, among several Tents of Herds­men. Here it was that the Commander had order'd that we should be treated by the Deroga. A Deroga, as I have said, is the Judge of a Village: But this De­roga was chief of many Families, some of which were of Mesopotamia, others of Arabia. These are all Herdsmen that never live in Houses, but retire with their Cattle to the holes in the Rocks, where partly Nature, partly Art, have contri­buted to make them convenient Habitations.

So soon as we were alighted, four ancient men came and led the Ambassador and my self to the Deroga's Tent. It seem'd to consist of many Rooms, with a Hall in the middle, spread with fair Persian Carpets. He caus'd us to sit down upon Cushions, and then presented us with a Pipe of Tobacco, and Water to wash our Feet. After he had nobly treated us, and that we were upon taking our leaves, the Deroga was very much troubl'd that we had made a small Present to his Son; telling us, that it was a crime for him to take any thing of the King's Guests, especially from Strangers that had come so long a Journey.

The next day we lodg'd in a place where there was such a prodigious quantity of Lillies that the Ground was almost cover'd with them. There were none that were white, being for the most part of a fair Violet colour, with a streak of Red in the middle of every leaf; they are like our Lilly's, but much bigger. And to drink the infusion of the Roots of these Lilly's, especially those whose Leaves are blackest, for fifteen days together, is a most Soveraign remedy against the Pox. Not long after came a Person of a goodly Aspect, who seem'd to be an Arabian, but he spoke the Persian Language, whom Solyman Kan had sent to Compliment the Ambassador. He carry'd us to the Tent which the Governour had caus'd to be set up in a Garden near the Town, where he also Lodg'd the Capuchins. The Ambassa­dor also sent to Compliment the Kan by my interpreter; and when the hour was come that we were to set forward, he gave order to six of the Captains of his Ca­valry to accompany the Ambassador. The House where the Governour liv'd in, was one of the most beautiful in Persia. And as for the Governour himself, we found him in a Gallery that look'd upon the Garden, the Floor being all spread over with a Tapestry of Gold and Silk, with large Cushions of Cloth of Gold all along the Wall. After some Questions and discourse concerning the Affairs of Europe, they serv'd in Supper, which consisted of several Dishes; but no Wine was to be had; our drink being only Sherbet and the juice of Granates, with Sugar for those that desir'd it. We were a long time at Supper, for 'tis the custom of Persia that when one man rises, another takes his place and falls too, in so much that the Master of the Feast must have the Patience to stay 'till several have tak'n their turns; and when every one has done, the Cloth is tak'n away without any more to do. Here the Ambassador committed an absurdity; for there are no Silver or Gold Spoons in Persia, but only long Wooden Ladles that reach a great way. Now the Ambassa­dor reaching his Ladle to a Purslane-Dish full of Pottage that was scalding hot, clap'd it presently into his mouth; but finding it so hot that he could not endure it, after several scurvy faces, he threw it out of his mouth again into his hand, in the presence of all the Company.

After we had stay'd five days at Sneirne, the Caravan-Bashi signifi'd his desire to pursue his Journey. Thereupon the Ambassador took his leave of the Governour, presenting him with a Watch and a pair of Pistols; who in retaliation presented the Ambassador with a stately Horse, and a Colt of two years old. The next day we dislodg'd, and pursu'd our Road to Amadan, which is not above three days Journey from Sneirne.

Amadan is one of the largest and most considerable Cities of Persia, seated at the foot of a Mountain, where do arise an infinite company of Springs that water all the Country. The Land about it abounds in Corn and Rice, wherewith it furnishes [Page 76] the greatest part of the neighbouring Provinces. Which is the reason that some of the Persian States-men hold it very inconvenient for the King of Persia to keep Bagdat, as well by reason of the vastness of the Charge, as also for that it draws from Amadan that which should supply other Provinces. On the other side, it is easie for the Grand Signor to hold it, by reason of the neighbourhood of Mesopo­tamia, Assyria, and the Arabs, Enemies to the Persians: by which means Provi­sions are very cheap, which the people would not know where to put off, if the King of Persia were Lord of Bagdat.

We staid at Amadan about ten days, by reason of the Rains; during which time the Caravans cannot travel. While we tarry'd there, we were visited by several Babylonian Christians, who were glad to see that we had escap'd the Clutches of the Basha of Bagdat, who had giv'n order to the Basha of Karkou, and the Bey of Sharassou that commands the Frontiers of Turkie, to seize us, and carry us back to Bagdat. For which we might have thank'd the Ambassador, and a malicious Rabbi, that came along with us in the Caravan from Aleppo; who finding the Feast of the Tabernacles to be at hand, and that we had a great way to Ispahan, left us at Ni­niveh, to keep the Festival with the Jews of Babylon. Where that he might insi­nuate himself into the Basha's favour, he inform'd him that there was a Fringuiz in the Caravan, whom he look'd upon as a Spy, and that he was an Envoy into Persia from the Commonwealth of Venice; for he carry'd no Merchandize, but had three Chests full of rich Habits, and several other things which he took for Presens to the Persian King. For out of vanity or folly, the Venetian had several times open'd his Chest and expos'd his Gallantry to view. And yet he was so clutch-fisted and niggardly in every thing, that when there was any occasion to reward the Kan's Servant, or any of the Country-men that brought us the Dainties of the place, it came all out of my Pocket. So that I left him to my Interpreter and the two Ca­puchins; and with three Servants and a Guide, after I had staid at Amadan three days, I took Horse for Ispahan.

When I came there, the Nazar or Master of the King's Houshold hearing I had left an Ambassador behind me with the Caravan, enquir'd of me what manner of Person he was, but I pretended I had had little converse with him, unwilling to discover his mean Spirit. The Evening before his Arrival the Nazar sent to give the Fringuiz notice in the King's Name, that they should be ready to go meet the Ambassador the next day; which we did, and brought him into the City and through Ali's Gate, that joyns to the King's Palace. Now 'tis the custom for all Ambassadors to salute that Gate, by reason of a white Marble Stone made like an Asses back, and which serves for a Step: being, as they report, brought anciently out of Arabia, where Ali liv'd. So soon as you have strid over that Stone without touching it, which were a great crime, you enter into a kind of a Gallery, where there are Rooms on each side, which serves for a Sanctuary for Criminals, which the King himself cannot fetch out of that place. That day that the new King receives his Ensigns of Royalty, he goes to stride over that Stone; and if by negli­gence he should chance to touch it, there are four Guards at the Gate, that would make a shew of thrusting him back again.

But now the Master of the Ceremonies being ready to conduct the Ambassador to the Apartment alotted him, as an Ambassador that came from three great Mo­narchs, and a potent Commonwealth, he desir'd to lodge at the House of one Pietro Pentalet, descended from Venetian Parents; whereupon the Master of the Ceremonies conducted him thither, and caus'd his Dinner to be brought him. While we were eating, I counted thirteen Languages spoken at the Table; Latin, French, High-Dutch, English, Low-Dutch, Italian, Portuguez, Persian, Turkish, Arabic, Indian, Syriac, and Malaye, which is the Language of the Learned, that is spoken from the River Indus to China and Japan, and in all the Ilands of the East, like Latin in Europe; not reck'ning the little Moresco or Gibbrish of the Country. So that it is a difficult thing to observe what is talk'd in one Company, where the Discourse begins in one Language, is pursu'd in another, and finish'd in a third: and for the Turks and Armenians, they never speak above three or four Languages at most.

Now to shew you the Civility of the Persians; the Master of the Ceremonies came to the Ambassador and told him, that if he did not like the Cookery of the Persians, he had Order from the Atemadoulet, who is as the Grand Vizier in Turkie, to offer him [Page 77] Money instead of Diet, to the end he might dress his own Meat as he pleas'd him­self. Upon which the covetous Ambassador accepted his offer, and two hours after there was a Bag brought him of 50 Tomans, which amount to about 800 Crowns. The Franks being offended at his baseness, slighted the Ambassador, and left him to keep House by himself, which was poor enough God knows; an Onion or a Turnep serving his turn for a Meal. Some days after, he had Audience of the King, to whom he presented his Letters Credential from the Pope, the Emperour, the King of Poland, and the Commonwealth of Venice. Those from the three last were well receiv'd, because the Seals were of Gold, and for that the Paper was embelish'd with curious Flourishes: but the Pope's Letters were rejected with scorn, because the Seals were only of Lead, as the Bulls are usually seal'd; and for that the Writing was very plain. For the Kings of Persia, who are very nice, love things that are gay to the Eye; otherwise they look upon themselves to be affronted. Dominico de Santis had better have tak'n upon him the meaner quality of an Envoy, than the title of an Ambassador, unless he had known better how to behave himself; especially being so eclips'd as he was by a real Ambassador that arriv'd at Ispahan some time after. All the Franks went forth to meet him, and the Master of the Ceremonies made him the same proffers as he had done to the Venetian: but he nobly answer'd, That what­ever it were that the King of Persia sent him, he should take it for a very great Honour: otherwise, if he would have eaten Gold, the King his Master would have allow'd him 30 Mules Load. Such persons as behave themselves with decency and a good grace, are the persons that the Christian Princes should send into Persia, who are the most refin'd Wits, and the best Politicians of all Asia.

To conclude the Story of the Venetian, I will give you his Character. An Indian naturally of a good Wit having embrac'd Christianity and an Ecclesiastical Life, went to Rome to complete his Studies which he had begun at Goa; whither, the Pope, taking an affection to him, sent him afterward as his Vicar. Dominico de Santis being then at Rome, put himself into his service, and follow'd him into the Indies, where I saw him the first time I went, in a mean condition. Upon his return to Venice, where he was in no credit before, he made people believe that he understood the Trade of Asia; whereupon some particular Merchants trusted him with some Goods, which were cast away at Seide. Thus poor and bare he return'd to Goa, where he got 800 Crowns by a charitable Contribution. From thence he travel'd to Ispahan, where he fell into the acquaintance of Father Rigordi a Jesoite, with whom he went into Poland: where making his brags of the great knowledge he had of the Affairs of Persia, the King gave him that Commission which I have already mention'd. The Emperour follow'd his Example, and the Commonwealth of Venice did the same: and to give the more lustre and authority to his Embassy, they got the Pope to joyn with them. But alas! both Dominico de Santis, and all such persons as he, that go into Asia without Brains and good Behaviour, do out prostitute the Reputation of the Princes that send them. Such another was Father Rigordi, who after he had been thrust out of Goa by the Portugals, went to Ispahan, where he insinuated himself by a Proposition which he made of Marrying the King of Persia, who was then a very young Prince, to the Dutchess of Orleanoe. Under which pretence he was well receiv'd and treated by the King; from whom he also recerv'd some Presents by virtue of that Proposal, which was good sport to the Dutchess when she heard of it.

As for the Venetian, the Atemudoulet, who was very glad to be rid of him, desir'd the Muscovite Ambassador, who was then upon his return home, to take him along with him, which he did as far as the Caspian Sea, where they take Shipping for Astracan; but there the Muscovite told him he could carry him no further: thereupon he was forc'd to come back to Ispahan, and so to travel to Goa, whence the Portugals shipt thim home for Charities sake. But when he came to Venice, has was so far from being well receiv'd, that the Senate had like to have punish'd him severely for giving so bad an account of his Negotiation.

CHAP. VI. Of the Road which the Author kept, when he Travell'd the fourth time into Asia, to go from Paris to Ormus. And first of his Voyage from Marseilles to Alexandretta.

ISet out from Paris in the company of Monsieur d'Ardiliere the eighteenth of June, 1651. and arriv'd at Marseilles the sixteenth of July. On the twenty-sixth of August we set Sail, with a favourable North-West Wind that blew very briskly the two next days; but at length it grew so very slack, that coming about to the North. North-East, we made for Sardinia. Upon the second of September by Sun-rising, we discover'd the Western Coast of Sardinia, six Leagues from the Land. About Noon the Wind chopping about again to the North-West, we held on our first Course; and upon the third of September, we descry'd the Island Galita upon the Coast of Africa. On the fourth we discover'd the Island of Zambino before Tunis, and about Evening Cape Bon, which is the most Southerly Point of all Africa. The fifth we had a sight of the Island of Pantalaria, and the Coast of Sicily. The sixth we discover'd the Island of Goza, and the seventh the Castle that bears the same name.

We landed at Malta upon the day of the Nativity of the Virgin, which is a great day among the Maltesi, upon which they give thanks to God, for that the Turks rais'd their Siege upon that day.

The Grand-Master goes to the Church of St. John, accompany'd with all the chief Commanders in their Robes of Command, and the greatest part of the Knights. All the Country-men and Citizens are up in Arms upon that day, and march to the Inn call'd the Auvernian-house, with the Knight that goes to fetch the Standard. This Knight is clad in a Cassock of Crimson-Velvet, with a Cross of the Order, be­fore and behind. He wears a Helmet upon his head, and carries the Standard upon his shoulders; and by him marches the Grand-Master's Page, who carries a Sword in one hand, and a Dagger in the other, both very richly Embellish'd, and giv'n to the Order by CHARLES the fifth. The Page that carry'd the Sword and Dagger was the youngest Nephew of Pope Innocent the tenth. The Souldiers and Citizens marching before to the Church door, make a Lane for the Knight and the Page to pass on to the Altar, where the Knight makes three bows, and having done as much to the Grand-Master, places himself on the right hand of the Grand-Masters Chair, and the Page on the left. Then the Mass and the Musick begins, and while the Gospel is reading, the Grand-Master takes the Sword and the Dagger out of the Page's hand, and holds them with the points upward all the remaining part of the Mass. During the Elevation of the Host, the Knights repeats the same Ceremony as at the beginning; and then the Bells ring, the great Guns go off, and the Soul­diers give three Vollies. Mass being ended, the Grand-Master retires, accom­pany'd as before, only that he is then attended by all the Ecclesiastical persons of the City, and coming out of the Church, he proceeds with all the Infantry marching before him toward our Lady's of Victory, where they all go in procession. While they make a stand in that place, the Souldiers give another Volley, which is an­swer'd by all the Canons in the Town, as also from the Ships and Galleys. After that they return to St. John's; and the Infantry Guard the Standard back to the Inn, while the Grand-Master goes to his Palace.

The ninth we view'd the Fortifications, which are stor'd with very fair pieces of Canon.

The tenth we saw the Pages perform their Exercises before the Grand-master, which are generally vaulting and handling their Arms, both Musquet and Pike.

The elev'nth we view'd the Arsenal, where I was assur'd that there were Arms for twenty thousand men, being in good order, and rarely well look'd after.

The next day we visited the Infirmery, where the sick are serv'd in Plate, as well the poor as rich.

[Page 79] The twentieth we set Sail, having the Wind at West-South-West, and a fresh gale; so that upon the twenty-third we discover'd the Coast of the Morea, to which we approach'd so near, as to descry Navarin. In the Evening we saw the City of Coron, where there is a great Trade for Sallet-Oyl. From thence it was that the Great Turk Embarqu'd for Candy in the year 1645.

The twenty-fourth the Wind was at East-North-East. In the Morning we disco­ver'd the Cape of Matapan, which is the most Southern Point of Land in Europe, lying in the Morea, and at Noon the Iland of Cherigo.

The twenty-fifth we drew near Cyprus, and descry'd a Mountain in that Iland, call'd Canteliere, with some other Promontories toward the South.

From the twenty-seventh day 'till we came to Alexandretta, we perceiv'd the Sea to be all over cover'd with Pumice-stones, which happ'nd from an Earth­quake that had for some time before swallow'd up the Iland of Santorini. Some think that it proceeded from the abundance of Sulphur, of which that Country is full, which took Fire, and was the death of above 750 of the Ilanders, that were partly buried in the Ruines, and partly dy'd out of fear. They that remain'd alive, became black like Charcoal; and the Vapours that ascended out of the Abyss fully'd all the Silver as far as Constantinople; the noise of the Earthquake being heard as far as Smyrna.

The twenty-ninth, by break of day we discover'd the Iland of Cyprus.

The first of October by eight in the Morning we came to an Anchor before Salines, which is one of the Ports of Cyprus, where our Consuls live. Here I ask'd several of the Christians of the Country, how they did to live and pay their Carage? Who told me that it was with a great deal of difficulty, in regard the Iland was very bare of Money; which was the reason that many Christians turn'd Mahometans, to avoid paying their Carage, which is a Tribute that the Grand Signor Iayes upon all Christians throughout his Dominions. He exacts from the poorest six Piasters a Head; but there are some that pay a hundred, or a hundred and fifty: and this Tribute is due so soon as ever they come to be eighteen years of age.

The Iland of Cyprus is one of the most considerable in the Mediterranean Sea, more to the East than any of the rest; bearing the title of a Kingdom, as being 500 Miles in circuit. It is not all of the same bredth, being of a triangular form, the sides whereof are very unequal. To it there belong several Capes or Promon­tories, the principal whereof are, St. Epiphanio, toward the West; Cape de Gate, toward the South; Cape Diegrega, toward the North-East; Cape Cormachiti, toward the North; and Cape St. Andrew, upon the most Eastern Point of the Iland. The principal Roads are that of Salines or Larneca, that of Paphos, and that of Cerines or Cerigni. The Haven of Famagosta signifies nothing as to great Ships, there being none but small Vessels that can ride there. The Venetians had formerly made a small Mole there to harbour their Gallies, but it is now quite ruin'd. The Road of Cerines is that where the Barks and Galliots lye that come from Caramania, and Payasses; and where the Basha's land that are sent as Governours of the Iland from Constantinople, who reside generally at Nicosia. That City is almost in the middle of the Iland, and was formerly a very large one, as appears by the compass of the ancient Walls. The new Walls are well terrass'd within-side, and in a good posture of defence. There are three Gates belong to the City; that of Famagosta, that of Paphos, and that of Cerines. The City it self is no uncomely place; the Venetians having adorn'd it with many fair Palaces, which the Turks demolish every day, out of hopes to find hidd'n Treasure therein, and sell the Stones to build new Houses. The Cathedral that goes by the name of Santa Sophia is an ample and fair Structure, of which the Turks have now made a Mosquee, together with one more, which was formerly a Monastery belonging to the Austin-Fryars. The Greeks have there four Churches, and the Franks two; that is to say, the French Missionary Capuchins, and the Italian Missionary Soccolans. The first have a Church dedicated to St. James, the others another, which is call'd Holy Rood Church. The Armenians also have another belonging to them, which is a very neat Building, which was formerly a Monastery of the Carthusians. There it is that there is a Tomb, adorn'd with several Sculptures of Religious Nunns, especially an Abbess with a Cross in her Hand, the Writing about the Stone being in French Characters. The City is seated in a temperate Air and a fertil Soil, abounding with Water. It extends more in length than bredth, [Page 80] having been anciently nine Miles in compass; but the Venetians to make it stronger, reduc'd it to the circuit of three. The Work of the Fortification was so neat, and such a proportion observ'd in all things, that the most famous Engineers esteem'd it one of the most stately Fortresses in the World, when Sclim the Second sent an Army against it, under the Command of Mustapha his Grand Vizier.

Famagosta is a Sea-Town upon the East-side of the Iland, and the chief Bulwark of it. It is kept in good repair, the Castle within being in form of a Cittadel. The Turks have converted into Mosquees the Churches of the Christians, who are not suffer'd to dwell in the City. They have only the liberty to come thither in the day, and to open Shops, which they shut up again at night, and then go home to their Houses in the neighbouring Villages. The City is govern'd by a Bey, who has no depen­dance upon the Governour of the Iland, who is oblig'd to maintain a Galley for the guard of the Coast.

Cerines is another little City, but without any defence, the Walls thereof being all tumbl'd to ruine. Only there is a Fortress toward the Sea, well built, with a Garrison in it. There is also a handsom Monastery of Religious Greeks, built somewhat after the French manner; wherein there are some of the Cells which stand so upon the Sea, that they can fish out of the Windows. The Fields about it bear Cotton, which is the chief Revenue of the Monastery. There is only the Fort of Cerines upon the North, where the Iland does not lye so open, as toward the South and East; which besides by that of Famagosta, are guarded by the Forts of Salines, Limisso, and Paphos. The Inhabitants of the Iland are for the most part Greeks, especially in the Villages. They are clad after the Italian manner, both Men and Women; the Men wearing Hats like the Franks, and retaining their ancient Customs as much as is possible for them to do. The Trade of the Iland lyes in Cotton-wool, which is the best in all the East; and some Silk, which is neither good, nor very plentiful. However the Iland is fertil enough, did it not want In­habitants enow to till it. As for Bread, Wine, Cheese, and Milk, they are all very cheap, and there is Oyl enough to serve the Iland. But for the Wine, it is trans­ported out of the Iland to all the places of Trade not far distant. The best grows at the foot of Olympus, and is a delicious sort of Drink. The Country between Nicosia and Famagosta produces Cotton, of which there grows also some between Paphos and Limisso. The chief place where the Silk is made is call'd Cytherea, a large Town water'd with a fair River that runs from the Mountain of Venus. This River turns several Mills, which are the chief Revenue of the Iland. There is Silk also made between Paphos and Limisso; upon the Road between which two places you meet with a Town call'd Piscopi, where are to be seen several Aquaeducts, that carry'd the Water into the Rooms and Magazines where the people formerly made Sugar. But since the Iland was tak'n from the Venetians, one of the Basha's that was sent as Governour, burnt up all the Sugar Canes in the Country. Toward the Sea-shoar near Limisso, is to be seen one of the fairest Gardens of Cyprus, which they call Shiti; to which there belongs a magnificent House, and a Grove of Orange-Trees. It was built by a rich Venetian, who had a good Estate in Lands there­abouts.

In Cyprus the people take a vast number of Birds as big as a Lark, especially near the Mountain of the Holy Cross. In the Months of September and October, the Country-people of the adjacent Villages make themselves little Hutts in the Fields, where usually those Birds are wont to light, and feed upon the Seed of an Herb that grows there; which when it is dry, the people daub over with Lime-twigs. But this they never do but when the North-West Wind blows, and that the weather be very cold; for with a Southerly Wind they never take any. These Birds are ac­counted great Dainties by the Venetians, who make no great Feasts in Carnival-time wherein they do not set these Birds upon the Table, pil'd up in Dishes like a Pyramid. They buy them up every year; being first prepar'd fit for exportation by the people, who having pull'd off their Feathers, parboyl them, and pickle them up in Barrels with Vinegar and Salt. When they are to be eat'n, they are set upon a Chafing-dish, between two Dishes. Sometimes there are above a thousand Barrels exported out of the Iland; and indeed, were it not for this Trade, the poor people would see but very little Money.

Upon the Mountain of the Holy Cross stands a Church of the same name; upon [Page 81] which the report of the Country goes, that St. Helena returning from Jerusalem left a piece of our Saviour's Cross with the Christians of Cyprus, who built a Church there, by means of the Liberality of the same Princess. Afterwards those of the Town of Leucara took it from hence, and carry'd it to their Church, where I saw it. The piece is as big as the Palm of a Man's Hand, set in a great Cross of Latten, emboss'd with several Figures.

In the Kingdom of Cyprus there is an Archbishop and three Suffragans. The Arch-bishop takes upon him the Title of Nicosia; to which Famagosta belongs with all the Country between Nicosia and Famagosta, with the Territories of Nicosia and all the Villages round. He has a House about a League from Nicosia, where the chiefest of his Revenue lies. Some years since he caus'd the high Altar of the Church to be painted and guilded, being a neat piece of Workmanship. Thus the Arch-bishop has under his Jurisdiction all the middle part of the Island, and some part toward the East. The Bishops are the Bishops of Paphos, Larneca; and Cerines.

The Greeks are very much addicted to the observation of their ancient Customs and Ceremonies; and generally their Masses are very long. Upon Sundays and Holy-days they rise between one and two of the Clock in the Morning to Sing Mat­tins. To which purpose there is a Clerk that goes from door to door and knocks with a Hammer, to wake the people, and then cries out with a loud voice, Chri­stians go the Church. The men and old women fail not to go as being more zealous; but the maids and young women never go out of doors in the night for fear of the Turks. There are seven or eight Villages, the Inhabitants whereof are Maronites, who came from Mount Libanus, and speak Arabic at home, but Greek among the Islanders. They follow the Romish Religion, and have their Churches peculiar to themselves.

The Island of Cyprus is no wholesom Air, being subject to the spoyl of a sort of Locusts, that some Summers destroy all their Fruit aud Corn. During the heats they hover in the Air, which they will dark'n with their number like a thick Cloud; but when the North Wind blows, it carry's them into the Sea, where they perish.

There are in Cyprus three sorts of colour'd Earth, a Grey-black, a Red, and a Yellow; of which the Venetians fetch away great quantities for their courser sort of Painting. There's also a Mine of White Alome, which is the stone call'd Dami­antlius. 'Tis thought that the Ancients had a way to spin this Alome into a kind of Cotton, and so to make out of it a certain sort of Cloth that would not consume in the Fire, but only be the more perfectly whiten'd thereby. The Indians formerly bury'd the dead bodies of their Kings deceas'd in Shrouds of this kind of Linnen, and then putting them into the Fire, found the bodies all reduc'd to ashes, but the Cloth whole; out of which they took the ashes, and carefully put them into an Vrne, which was prepar'd for their preservation.

When the Basha of Cyprus has a mind to view the Fortress of Famagosta, he sends to give the Bey, who is Governour thereof, notice of it. For it is at the Gover­nours choice whether he will give him admission or no. The Basha Hali-Giorgi, being a comely old man of above a hundred and two years of age, setting out of Nicosia in his Litter with about two hundred Horse, when he was come within half a League of Famagosta, the Governour of the place sent his Lieutenant with a hundred Horse to Compliment him, and to conduct him to the Town. Immediately they took upon them the Guard of the Basha's Litter, who was not permitted to take along with him above eight or ten of his principal Officers. The Cannons roar'd at his entry, and he was treated magnificently, but he lay not in the Town, be­ing conducted back by the same party to the place where they met him in the Morning.

Upon the third day of October we set Sail about three a Clock in the Morning with a West-North-West Wind, and about Noon we were within sight of Famagosta, into which place we could by no means be admitted, by reason of the Wars be­tween the Turks and Venetians. But as far as I could discern a far off, there is no easie access to the Port, and for the City I could descry no part of it.

The fourth, by break of day we got sight of the Coast of Syria, Cape Canger, and the Golf of Antioch, and about Evening we arriv'd in the Road of Alex­andretta.

[Page 82] From thence we went to Aleppo, and stay'd there from the seventh of October; to the thirtieth of December.

On the thirtieth we set forward for Nineveh, and with little variation of the Road which I have already describ'd in my third Voyage from Paris. We arriv'd the second day of February at Moussul or Nineveh, where we stay'd 'till the fifteenth, 'till the Kilets or Boats of the Country could be got ready. Our Kilet carry'd thirty Pas­sengers, and sixty hundred of Aleppo Weight, or thirty three thousand pound of Paris Weight, upon which the Tigris bore us from Moussul to Babylon.

CHAP. VII. A Continuation of the Road which the Author kept in the fourth Voyage into Asia, and particularly of his passage upon the Tigris from Nineveh to Babylon.

THE fifteenth of February we put off from Moussul, and after we had swam six hours, we came to lye near a hot Bath, about a Musket-shot from the Tigris. It was throng'd with Sick people that came thither for their Recovery. We kept our selves upon the Watch all night; but for all we could do, the Arabs stole two Coverlets from a Merchant, and a Turk's Cloaths that was gone into the Bath.

The sixteenth, after we had row'd about five hours, we came to a huge Dam; it is 200 Foot wide, and makes a fall in the River of about 20 Fathoms steep. The Arabians said that Alexander the Great made it to turn the course of the River; others will have it, that Darius caus'd it to be made to hinder the passage of the Macedonians by Water. However, we were forc'd to land our selves and our Goods, and to lade them upon Horses which the Arabs brought us.

The passing this Dam is worthy observation. For it is a thing of wonder to see the Kilet all of a sudden fall above sixscore Foot, and yet to be kept by the Leather-Bottles still above Water. The Water-men that guide the Boat, tye them­selves and their Oars fast to a Pearch bent like a Semicircle, to defend themselves from the force of the Water. And indeed this is the Dam that renders Tigris un­navigable.

The Kilet being come to the place where we expected it, we put our Goods aboard, and lay in the same place upon the Bank of the River. For the Arabs, if they perceive the Merchants asleep, cut the Cords of the Kilet, and setting it a-drift, swim after it, and rifle away what they please.

The seventeenth, after three hours rowing we met with the River Zab, that empties into the Tigris, upon Chaldea-side. Half a League above the River stands a fair Castle of Brick upon a little Hill; but no body dwelling in it, it runs to ruine. We were twelve hours that day upon the Water, and came to lye at a place which was full of Wood, where we made great Fires, and shot off our Muskets often in the night to scare the Lions.

The eighteenth we were upon the Water eighteen hours, and lay upon the Bank of the River, upon Assyria-side. That Evening the Arabs brought us Milk-Meats, and fresh Butter. They swim from the other side of the River with a Boracho under their Stomachs, and another upon their Heads, wherein they bring their Commo­dities; for which they will have no Money, but only Tobacco, or Bisket, or Pepper.

The nineteenth, in four hours time we met with a River call'd Altum-sou, or The River of Gold. It flows from the Mountains of the Medes, and I travel'd by the side of it for three days together, returning from Tauris to Aleppo, and passing the Tigris to Mesia. The Water of the River is of an excellent tast, and it falls into Tigris upon Assyria-side. All along the Tigris, on the same side, are great store of Bituminous Springs, and other Streams of hot Water that smell of Sulphur. All that [Page 83] day we saw none but Arabs and Curds marching along the Banks of the River, the Curds upon Mesopotamia side, and the Arabs upon Assyria side. They were at War, and both sides march'd in very good order. The Young men went formost with Bows and Arrows, and some Muskets, but several Half-Pikes. Next to them their Wives, Virgins, and Children, with their Cattel, Herds, and Camels; after which march'd the Old men in the rear. As well the Curds as the Arabians sent out Horse-men to scout upon the high Grounds; for as soon as they find any advantage, they presently swim their Horses over the River and fall on. Now because we would not trust those sort of People, we row'd nineteen hours to avoid 'em.

The twentieth we were eleven hours upon the Tigris, and came to lye at a Town call'd Tegrit, upon Mesopotamia side. There belongs to the Town a Castle half ruin'd, and yet there are still some handsom Chambers to be seen. Upon the North and East, the River serves for a Moat; but upon the West and South it has a deep Artificial one pav'd with Free-stone. The Arabians say that formerly it was the strongest place in all Mesopotamia, though it be commanded by two Hills not far from it. The Christians dwelt half a League from the City, where the Ruines of a Church and part of a Steeple are still to be seen, whereby it appears to have been a considerable Pile of Building.

The twenty-first, after we had row'd three hours, we met with a Town upon Assyria side, which was call'd Amet-el-tour, from the name of a person that lyes inter'd in a Monastery, whom the people account to be a Saint. Therefore is it a place of great Devotion among them, so that great numbers of Votaries go thither in private. That day we were twelve hours upon the Water, and lay upon the Banks of the River.

The twenty-second, having been upon the Water two hours, we met with a great Channel cut out of Tigris to water the Lands, which runs up as far as just over­against Bagdat, and there falls into the Tigris again. Coming thither, we landed upon Chaldea side, by reason that there were certain Turks with us, who would of necessity perform their Devotions at a place call'd Samàtra. In the same there is a Mosquee not above half a League from the River; to which many Mahometans pay their Devoirs, especially Indians and Tartars, who believe forty of their Pro­phets to be buried there. When they knew us to be Christians, they would not permit us, no not for Money, to set our Feet in it. About five hundred Paces from the Mosquee stands a Tower very ingeniously built. There are two Stair-cases without, that belong to it, made twirling like a Periwinkle-shell: one of which Stair-cases was built deeper into the Tower than the other. I would have taken better notice of it, could I have been permitted to have come nearer it. Only I observ'd that it was made of Brick, and that it seems to be very ancient. Half a League from thence appear three great Portals, that look as if they had been the Gates of some great Palace. And indeed it is not improbable but that there was some great City thereabouts; for, for three Leagues all along the River there is nothing to be seen but Ruines. We were twelve hours that day upon the Water, and lay upon the Banks of Tigris, according to custom.

The twenty-third, we were twenty hours upon the Water, and all the day long we saw nothing upon either side of the River but pitiful Hutts made of the Branches of Palm-trees, where live certain poor people that turn the Wheels, by means whereof they water the neighbouring Grounds. We also met that day with a River call'd Odoine, that falls into Tigris upon the side of the ancient Chaldea.

The twenty-fourth, we were twenty-two hours upon the Water together, never stirring off from the Kilet. The reason is, because the Merchants having tak'n out of the Kilet all their Money and the best part of their Merchandizes, give them to the Country-people, who carry them very faithfully to Bagdat, whither they go to sell their own Commodities: which the Merchants do, to avoid the payment of Five in the Hundred, in the City. I trusted them also with several things of which they gave me a very good account, as they did to others, being contented with a small matter for their pains.

The twenty-fifth, about four of the Clock in the Morning we arriv'd at Bagdat, which is as usually call'd Babylon. They open the Gates by six, and then the Customers come to take an account of the Merchandize, and to search the Merchants themselves. If they find nothing about 'em, they let the Merchants go: but if [Page 84] they have any thing about 'em which ought to pay, they carry the persons to the Custom-House, where they write down the quantity of the Goods, and let them go. All the Merchandize upon the Kilet is carry'd thither also, which the Mer­chant fetches away again in two or three days, paying the Custom: All which is done in very great order, without any noise or disturbance in the least.

Though Bagdat usually bear the name of Babylon, yet it is at a great distance from the ancient Babylon, whereof in due place. But now for Bagdat, as it stands at this day.

Bagdat is a City seated upon the River of Tigris, on the Coast of Persia, and se­parated from Mesopotamia by the same River. It lyes in 33 Deg. 15 Min. of Ele­vation. The Chronicles of the Arabians report that it was built by one of their Califfs nam'd Almansour, in the year of the Hegyra of Mahomet 145, and of Christianity 762, or thereabouts. They call it Dar-al-sani, that is, the House of Peace. Some say it deriv'd its name from a Hermitage that stood in a Meadow where the City now stands, whence it was call'd Bagdat, or, a Garden bequeath'd. About forty years ago digging up the Foundations of an Inn, the Work-men found a Body entire, habited like a Bishop, with a Censor and Incense by him. And in the same place several Cells of Religious Houses shew'd themselves: which makes it very probable, that where Bagdat is built there was anciently a great Monastery, with several Houses where the Christians inhabited. The City is about fifteen hundred Paces long, and sev'n or eight hundred broad, and cannot possibly be above three Miles in circuit. The Walls are of Brick, and terrass'd in some places, with large Towers like Bastions. Upon all these Towers there are mounted about sixty pieces of Cannon, the biggest whereof carries not above a five or six Pound Ball. The Moats are wide, and about five or six Fathom deep. There are not above four Gates; three upon the Land-side, and one upon the River, which you must cross, over a Bridge of thirty-three Boats, distant one from the other about the bredth of one Boat. The Castle is in the City, near to one of the Gates call'd El-Maazan, upon the North side. It is partly built upon the River, encompass'd only with a single Wall, terrass'd in some places; and adorn'd with little Towers, upon which are planted about a hundred and fifty Cannon, but without Carriages. The Moat is narrow, and not above two or three Fathom deep, neither is there any Draw-Bridge before the Gate. The Garrison consists of three hundred Janizaries, commanded by an Aga. The City is govern'd by a Basha, who is generally a Vizier. His House is upon the side of the River, making a fair shew; and he has alway ready at com­mand six or sev'n hundred Horse. There is also an Aga that commands three or four hundred Spahi's. They have besides another sort of Cavalry which is call'd Gin­guliler, that is to say, Men of Courage, commanded by two Aga's; and usually there are about three thousand in the City and the Towns adjoyning. The Keys of the Gates of the City and the Bridge-Gate are in the custody of another Aga, who has under him two hundred Janizaries. There are also six hundred Foot-men, who have their particular Aga, and about sixty Cannoneers, who were at that time commanded by an expert Artist that went by the name of Signor Michaël, who pass'd for a Turk, though he were born in Candy. He put himself into the Grand Signor's service, when he went to besiege Bagdat, in the year 1638. Though the Turk had the good fortune to carry the City in a small time; not so much by virtue of the Breach which Signor Michaël had made in the Wall, as the Sedition and Revolt that hap­pen'd at the same instant, the Story whereof was thus in short.

The Kan that sustain'd the brunt of the Siege at first, was originally an Armenian, and his name was Sefi-couli-Kan. He had commanded the City a long time, and had defended it twice from the Army of the Turks, who were not able to take it before. But the King of Persia having sent one of his Favourites to command in his room, who had enter'd upon his Command before the Cannon had made the Breach, the old Kan finding himself displac'd by the Commission of the new Governour, rather chose to dye, than survive the Affront which was put upon him. To which purpose he sent for his Servants, the Officers of the Army, his Wife and Son, and taking three Cups of Poyson in his Hand, he commanded his Wife, if ever she lov'd him, now to shew the marks of her affection by generously dying with him. He gave the same exhortation to his Son; and so all three together drank up the Poyson, which procur'd their speedy death. The Souldiers, who had a great love for their Governour, [Page 85] having beheld so dismal a Spectacle, and knowing the Grand Signor was preparing for a general Assault, would not obey their new Kan, but began to act like Re­volter's; and to that purpose they agreed to deliver up the City, upon condition they might march away with their Arms and Baggage: but the Turks did not keep their words. For so soon as the Turks were got into the City; the Basha's told the Grand Signor, that to weak'n the force of the Persian, it was necessary for him to put to the Sword all the Souldiers that were in the City: and thereupon there were above twenty thousand massacr'd in cold Blood. The Turks had seiz'd upon the Capuchins Mansion, but Signor Michaël chief of the Canoneers, got it to be restor'd them again.

As to the Civil Government of Bagdat, there is none but a Cady, who does all, acting even the Mufti, with a Shiekelaslon or Tefterdar, who receives the Revenues of the Grand Signor. There are in it five Mosquees, of which two are indifferently well built, and adorn'd with Duomo's cover'd with varnish'd Tiles of different colours. There are also ten Inns, all ill built, except two, which are reasonably convenient. In general, the City is ill built; there being nothing of beauty in it but the Bazars, which are all arch'd; else the Merchants would not be able to endure the heats. They must also be water'd three or four times a day; for which office several poor people are hir'd upon the publick charge. The City is full of Trade, but not so full as it was, when in the hands of the King of Persia: for when the Turk took it, he kill'd most of the richest Merchants. However there is a great confluence thither from all Parts; whither for Trade, or for Devotions sake, I cannot tell: because they that follow the Sect of Haly, do believe that Haly liv'd at Bagdat. Besides, all they that are desirous to go to Mecca by Land, must pass through Bagdat, where every Pilgrim is forc'd to pay four Piasters to the Basha. You must take notice that there are in Bagdat two sorts of Mahometans, the first are call'd Rafedi's, or Here­ticks; the second, Observers of the Law, in all things like those at Constantinople. The Rafedi's will by no means eat or drink with a Christian, and very hardly with the rest of the Mahometans: or if they do happ'n to drink out of the same Cup, or to touch them, they presently wash themselves, as believing themselves unclean. The others are not so scrupulous, but eat and drink and converse with all the World. In the year 1639, after the Grand Signor had tak'n Bagdat, a Rafedi who was a Carrier of Water not only refus'd to give a Jew to drink, who desir'd it of him in the Market-place, but abus'd him also in words. Thereupon the Jew com­plain'd to the Cady, who immediately sent for him, and caus'd his Boracho and his Cup to be brought along with him; when he came before him, he ask'd for his Cup, and gave the Jew to drink, and then made the Porter drink also out of the same Cup: After that, he order'd the Rafedi to be Bastinado'd, and this Lesson to be taught him while he was chastising, That we are all God's Creatures, as well Maho­metans, as Christians and Jews. This has made them less zealous in their Superstition, though they are the chiefest part of the Inhabitants of the City.

As to their Funerals, I have particularly observ'd, that when the Husband dyes, the Wife pulls off all her Head-gear, and lets her Hair fall about her Ears; then she all besmears her Face with the Soot of a Kettle, and having so done, frisks and leaps about after such a ridiculous manner, as from others would rather produce laughter than tears. All the kindred, friends and neighbours meet at the House of the deceas'd, and stay for the Celebration of the Funeral. At what time the Wo­men strive to out-vie one another in a thousand Apish tricks, clapping their Cheoks, yelling like mad people; and then of a sudden setting themselves to dance to the sound of two Drums, like those which the Tabor-and-Pipe-Men carry, upon which the Women beat for a quarter of an hour. Among them there is one more ac­custom'd to this fool'ry than the rest, that fills your Ears with mournful Dinns: to which other Women make answer, by redoubling their Cries, which may be heard at a great distance. It would then be a vain thing to seek to comfort the Children of the deceas'd; for they seem to be so much beside themselves, that they are not in a condition to hear any thing. And they are oblig'd to carry themselves in that manner, unless they intend to run the reproach of not having any kindness for their Parents. When the Corps is carry'd to the Grave, abundunce of poor people go before with Banners, and Crescents at the ends of Sticks, singing most dismal Dirges all the way. The Women are not to be at the Interrment, who are not [Page 86] to go abroad but only upon Thursdays, when they go to the Sepulchers to Pray for the Dead. And because that by their Law the Husband is oblig'd to lye with his lawful Wife upon Thursday-night or Fryday-night, upon Wednesday-morning the Women go to the [...]ths, where they perfume their Heads and Bodies with a sweet Water. They may go abroad sometimes at other seasons, when their Husbands give them leave to visit their Kindred; but then they are to be wrapt up from Head to Foot, that it is impossible for their Husbands themselves to know them if they meet 'em i'the Streets. By the way take notice, that the Persian Women, unless they be such as are very poor, would rather stay within all the days of their Lives, than go abroad without a Horse. And it is a certain sign to know a Curtisan from an honest Woman; for that the Curtisans put their Feet in the Stirup, and the honest Women only in the Stirup-leathers. The Women of Bagdat are very richly habited, after their fashions; but they are not contented to wear their Jewels about their Necks and Wrists, for they hang them like Bracelets about their Faces, and will bore holes in their Ears to put in a Ring. The Arabian Women only bore the separation between the two Nostrils, where they wear hollow Rings, as well to spare cost, as for lightness; for some are so big, that you may almost thrust your Fist through them. Beyond all this, the more to beautifie themselves, they make a round Ring about their Eyes with a certain sort of Blacking: And as well Men as Women, in the Desert, put the same near their Eyes, to preserve them, as they say, from the heat of the Sun.

Of Christians there are three sorts: Nestorians, who have a Church; Armenians and Jacobites, who have none, but go to the Capuchins, who administer the Sacra­ments to them. The Christians go in Devotion to a Chappel, about a short quarter of a League from the City, dedicated to a Saint whom they call Keder-Elias, paying a small Fee, for admission, to the Turks, who keep the Keys. Two days journey from the City stands another ruin'd Church in a pitiful Village, where they say, that St. Simon and St. Jude were both Martyr'd and Buried. If a Christian dyes, all the rest come to his Burial, and returning home, find a Supper prepar'd to welcom them; the next day they return to the Grave, and pray for the deceas'd; and the third day there is a Dinner for all comers and goers. Sometimes there will be a hundred and fifty persons at a Burial. They repeat the same Ceremonies for the seventh, fifteenth, thirtieth and fortieth days afterwards; having a great veneration for the Dead, for whom they pray too often. This custom of Feasting is very in­convenient for the Poor; for they being desirous to imitate the Rich, run them­selves sometimes so far in Debt, that they are forc'd to sell their Children to the Turks to discharge themselves.

There are several Jews also in Bagdat, but more that come every year in Devotion to visit the Sepulcher of the Prophet Ezekiel, which is a day and a halfs journey from the City. In short, since the taking of Bagdat by Sultan Amurat, the number of Inhabitants cannot be less than fifteen thousand Souls; which shews that the City is not peopl'd according to its bigness.

About a day and a halfs journey from the Point of Mesopotamia, at distance almost equal between Tigris and Euphrates, there appears a vast Heap of Earth, which the people call to this day Nemrod. It stands in the midst of a wide Plain, and may be discover'd a great way off. The vulgar sort believe it to be the Remains of the Tower of Babel; but there is more probability of the Arabians Opinion, who call it Agartouf, and believe it to have been built by an Arabian Prince, who always kept a Beacon at the top to assemble his Subjects together in time of War. This Heap of Earth was about three hundred Paces in circuit; but it is not easie to guess at the ancient height, the rest being fal'n to ruine, but only eighteen or twenty Fathom. It is built of Brick dry'd in the Sun, every Brick being ten Inches square, and three thick. The Building is thus rais'd. Upon every row of Canes or Reeds bruis'd to pieces and mix'd with Wheat-straw, and spred an Inch and a half thick, lye seven orders of these Bricks with a little Straw between each; then another Bed of Reeds, and six rows of Bricks; then a third with five rows, decreasing in that manner 'till you come to the top. The form of it seems to have been rather square than round; and in the highest part of that which remains there appears a Hole like a Window; if it were not rather an Out-let for Water, or a Hole for the Scaffolding. In short, according to the Description of Moses there [Page 87] is no likelihood that this should be the Remains of the ancient Tower of Ba­bel.

• A. The Ground-Plot.
• B. The Fortress.
• C. The Gate call'd Maazan-capl.
• D. The New Bulwark.
• E. The Port where the Grand Signor erected his first Batt'ry, Anno 1638.
• F. The Old Bulwark.
• G. The Gate in the Wall.
• H. The Old Bulwark.
• I. The Place where Amurat rais'd his second Batt'ry, when he made the Breach, and took the City.
• K. The Gate in the Wall.
• L. The Old Bulwark.
• M. The Old Bulwark.
• N. Cara capi, or the Black Gate.
• O. The Old Bulwark.
• P. Sou-capi, or the Water-Gate.

CHAP. VIII. A Continuation of the Road from Bagdat to Balsara; and of the Religion of the Christians of St. John.

THE fifteenth of March we hir'd a Bark from Bagdat to Balsara. And we observ'd, that a little beyond Bagdat the River Tigris divides it self into two Arms; the one which runs through the ancient Chaldea, the other keeps its course toward the Point of Mesopotamia; these two Arms making a large Iland, cross'd by several small Channels.

When we came to the place where Tigris divides it self, we beheld as it were the compass of a City that might have formerly been a large League in circuit. There are some of the Walls yet standing, upon which six Coaches may go a-brest. They are made of burnt Brick, every Brick being ten Foot square, and three thick. The Chronicles of the Country say, that these were the Ruines of the ancient Ba­bylon.

We follow'd that Arm of Tigris that runs along the Coast of Chaldea; for fear of falling into the hands of the Arabs, who were then at War with the Basha of Babylon, denying to pay the ordinary Tribute to the Grand Signor. We were ten days upon the Water in our passage from Bagdat to Balsara, and lay every night upon the Water, dressing our Victuals in the Bark. For when we came to any Villages, we sent our Servants a-shoar to buy Provisions, which we had very cheap. Now the Towns we met with upon the Shoar were these. Amurat, where there stood a Fort of Brick bak'd in the Sun; Mansoury, a great Town; Magar, Gazer, and Gorno. At this last place Euphrates and Tigris meet together: where are also three Castles to be seen; one upon the Point where the two Rivers meet, which is the strongest, and where the Son of the Prince of Balsara then commanded; the second upon Chaldea side; and the third upon Arabia side. Though the Customs be there exactly demanded, and paid, yet they never search any person. The Tides come up to that place: so that having but fifteen Leagues to Balsara, we got thither in sev'n hours, having both Wind and Tide.

All the Country between Bagdat and Balsara is inter-cut and parted by Dikes, like the Low Countries; the two Cities lying a hundred and sixty Leagues one from [Page 88] the other. It is one of the best countries in the possession of the Grand Signor, being stor'd with large Meadows and excellent Pasturage, where are bred infinite numbers of Beasts, especially Mares and Bufalo's. The Female Bufalo's go twelve Months, and yield so much milk, that there are some which will give two and twenty Pints. And there is so large a quantity of Butter made, that in some Vil­lages upon the Tigris, we saw sometimes five and twenty, sometimes twenty Barks lad'n with Butter, which the people sell all along the Gulf of Persia, as well upon Arabia, as Persia side.

Half the way between Bagdat and Balsara, we perceiv'd several Pavilions set up in the Meadows along by the side of the River. Upon enquiry we heard that the Tefterdar was come from Constantinople to gather the Grand Signor's duty's. For from Bagdat to Gorno, for all the Bufalo's as well Male as Female, there is to be paid a Piaster and a quarter for every head once a year; which is worth yearly to the Grand Signor a hundred and fourscore thousand Piasters. Every Mare also pays two Piasters, every Sheep ten Sous; which if the Country people were not very cunning, would be worth fifty thousand Piasters more than it is.

After this we came to Gorno, a Fortress upon the point where the two Rivers meet, besides two other small Castles upon each side, so that there is no passing without leave. Upon the Fort of Gorno which was well furnish'd with Cannon, we saw the Prince of Balsara's Son, who was Governour of the Fort. And here it is that the Account of the Customs is taken. But though they are very exact in searching the Barks, they are very civil, for they search no body. However lest any Goods should be hid between the Planks of the Ships, over which they generally throw Fa­gots and Canes, the Customers bring a great Piercer, with which they bore the sides of the Bark quite through for the discovery of conceal'd Goods. The Goods are Register'd at Gorno, but the Customs are always paid at Balsara, according to the accompt giv'n from the Fort.

The same day entring into the Channel that is cut out of Euphrates to Balsara, we met the chief of the Holland Factory taking his pleasure in a Boat cover'd with Scarlet, who took me with him to Balsara.

Balsara stands upon the side of Arabia deserta, two Leagues from the Ruines of a City, which was formerly call'd Teredon, and anciently stood in the Desert, to which the Water was formerly conveigh'd out of Euphrates in a Brick Channel still to be seen.

By the Ruines it appears to have been a great City, from whence the Arabians fetch away the Bricks and sell them at Balsara. The City of Balsara is half a League from Euphrates, which the Arabians in their Language call Shetel-areb, or the River of Araebia. The Inhabitants of the City have made a Channel to it about half a League long, which bears Vessels of 150 Tun; at the end where­of stands a Fort, so that no Vessel can get into the Fort without leave. The Sea is above fifteen Leagues off, but the Tide comes up to the Channel, and fills the River other fifteen Leagues upward beyond Gorno. The Country is so low, that were it not for a Dam that runs along the Sea-shoar, it would often be in danger of being drown'd. The Dam is above a League in length, and built all of Free-stone so strong, that the fury of the waves can do them no injury, though it lie open to a Boystrous Sea.

It is not above a hundred years since Balsara belong'd to the Arabians of the Desert, and had no commerce with the Nations of Europe. For those people were contented to eat their own Dates, having so great a quantity, that they only live upon them. 'Tis the same thing all along the Gulf on each side; for from Balsara to the River Indus for above six hundred Leagues together, and all along the Coast of Arabia to Mascaté, the poor sort of people know not what it is to eat Rice, but live upon Dates and Salt-fish dry'd in the wind. The Cows eat no Grass, and though they go abroad in the fields, they find little or nothing among the bushes which is proper for them to eat. But every Morning before they drive them to the Field, and when they return home, they give them heads of fish and Date-nuts boil'd together.

The Turks having had War with the Arabians took Balsara; and yet because the Arabians always hover'd about the Town, and made booty of all they could lay their hands on, they were forc'd to come to an agreement with them, that the Arabs should quietly enjoy all the Desert 'till within a League of the City; and that the [Page 89] Turks should remain peaceable Masters of the City, where they have a Basha for Governour. But this Treaty endur'd not long; for in the middle of the City there is a Cittadel, call'd Aushel Basha, or the Basha's Court, which the Turks built; so that the Garrison being Turks and the Inhabitants Arabians, who could not endure to be curb'd, they oft-times quarrell'd with the Turks and came to blows. There­upon the Arabians of the Desert came to the relief of the Citizens and besieg'd the Basha in the Fortress. At length because there could be no such agreement made, but that one party or other took an occasion presently to break it, there was one Basha whose name was Aiud, who after many contests and revolts which had almost tyr'd him, resolv'd to rid himself of the trouble, and sold his Government for forty thousand Piasters to a rich Lord in the Country, who presently rais'd a sufficient number of Souldiers to keep the people in awe. This great man took upon him the name of Efrasias Basha, being the Grandfather of Hussen Basha, who was Gover­nour at the time when I pass'd through before. This Efrasias threw off the Turkish voak, and took upon him the title of Prince of Balsara. As for the Basha that sold his Government, he no sooner arriv'd at Constantinople, but he was strangl'd. But after Amurath had taken Bagdat, the Prince of Balsara was glad to feed him conti­nually with Presents that chiefly consisted in Horses, which are very beautiful in that Country. The Great Sha-Abas having taken Ormus, sent a powerful Army under the Command of Iman-Kouli-Kan Governour of Shiras, to take in Balsara. Whereupon the Prince finding himself too weak to resist so great a Pow'r, made an agreement with the Desert Arabians to break down the Dam that stops the Sea. Which being per­form'd, in came the Sea tumbling fifteen Leagues to Balsara, and four Leagues be­yond it, which constrain'd the Persians, surrounded with water, and hearing at the same time of the death of Sha-Abas, to raise their Siege. Since that inundation, several Lands and Gardens have been utterly barren, or have born very little, by reason of the Salt which the Sea has left behind.

The Prince of Balsara has enter'd into Leagues with several strange Nations, so that whencesoever you come, you may be welcom. There is so much liberty and so good order in the City, that you may walk all night long in the Streets without mo­lestation. The Hollanders bring Spices thither every year. The English carry Pepper and some few Cloves; but the Portugals have no Trade at all thither. The Indians bring Calicuts, Indigo, and all sorts of Merchandize. In short, there are Mer­chants of all Country's, from Constantinople, Smyrna, Aleppo, Damascus, Cairo, and other parts of Turkie, to buy such Merchandizes as come from the Indies, with which they lade the young Camels which they buy in that place; for thither the Arabians bring them to put them to sale. They that come from Diarbequir, Mou­ssul, Bagdat, Mesopotamia, and Assyria, send their Merchandizes up the Tigris by Water, but with great trouble and expence. In regard the Boats are to be tow'd by men, that cannot go above two Leagues and a half in a day, and against the Wind they cannot stir, which makes them oft-times between Balsara and Bagdat to be above sixty days, nay there have been some that have been three months upon the Water.

The Customs of Balsara amount to five in the hundred, but generally you have some favour shew'd you, either by the Customer or the Prince himself, that the Merchant does not really pay above four in the hundred. The Prince of Balsara is so good a Husband, that he lays up three millions of Liuers in a year. His chiefest Revenue is in four things, Money, Horses, Camels, and Date-trees; but in the last consists his chiefest wealth. For all the Country from the meeting of the two Rivers to the Sea, for the space of thirty Leagues together, is all cover'd with these Trees; nor does any one dare to touch a Date, 'till he has paid for every Tree three fourths of a Larin, or nine Sous French. The profit which the Prince makes upon money, proceeds from this, that the Merchants that come from abroad are oblig'd to carry their Reals to his Mint, where they are Coyn'd and converted into Larins, which is worth to him eight in the hundred. As for his Horses, there is no place in the world, where there are more fit for travel, or handsomer shap'd; for there are some that will travel thirty hours together and never draw bit, especially the Mares. But to return to the Palm-trees it is worth observation, that there is more Art to bring up those Trees than any other. The Natives dig a hole in the ground, wherein they heap a great quantity of Date-nuts in a Pyramidical form, the top [Page 90] whereof ends in one single Nut, which being cover'd with Earth produces the Palm-tree. Most of the people of the Country do say, that in regard there is among the Palm-trees the distinction of Male and Female, that therefore they must be planted one by another, for that otherwise the Female Tree will bear no Fruit. But others affirm that nicety to be unnecessary; and that it susfices, when the Male is in Blossom to take a Flower from the Male, and put it into the Heart of the Female a little above the Stem; for unless they should do so, all the Fruit would fall off before it came to maturity.

There is at Balsara a Cady that administers Justice, and who is establish'd by the authority of the Prince that commands there. In the City are also three sorts of Christians, Jacobites, Nestorians, and Christians of St. John. There is also a House of Italian Carmelites; and there was a House of Portugal Austin-Friars, but they have forsak'n the Town ever since their Country-men quitted the Trade.

The Christians of St. John are very numerous at Balsara, and the Villages there­abouts; who anciently liv'd by the River of Jordan, where St. John Baptiz'd; and from whom they took their Name. But since the time that Mahomet conquer'd Palestine, though Mahomet formerly gave them his Hand and his Letters of Pri­viledge that they should not be molested, nevertheless they that succeeded the false Prophet resolv'd to extirpate them all; to which purpose they ruin'd their Churches, burnt their Books, and exercis'd all manner of cruelties upon their Per­sons: which oblig'd them to retire into Mesopotamia and Chaldea, and for some time they were under the Patriarch of Babylon, from whom they separated about a hundred and sixty years ago. Then they remov'd into Persia and Arabia, and the Towns round about Balsara; as Souter, Despoul, Rumez, Bitoum, Mono, Endecan, Calufabat, Aveza, Dega, Dorech, Masquel, Gumar, Carianous, Balsara, Onezer, Zech, Loza. Nor do they inhabit City or Village by which there does not run a River. And many of their Bishops have assur'd me, that the Christians in all the foregoing places make above five and twenty thousand Families. There are some among them who are Merchants; but the most part of them are Trades-men, especially Gold­smiths, Joyners, and Lock-smiths.

Their Creed is full of fables and foul errours. The Persians and Arabians call them Sabbi, a People that have forsak'n their own Religion, to take up a new one. In their own Language they call themselves Mendai Jahia, or Disciples of St. John, from whom, as they ascertain us, they have receiv'd their Faith, their Books, and their Traditions. Every year they celebrate a Feast for about five days, during which time they go in Troops to their Bishops, who Baptize them according to the Baptism of St. John.

They never Baptize but in Rivers, and only upon Sundays. But before they go to the River they carry the Infant to Church, where there is a Bishop who reads certain Prayers over the Head of the Child; from thence they carry the Child to the River, with a Train of Men and Women, who together with the Bishop go up to the knees in Water. Then the Bishop reads again certain Prayers out of a Book which he holds in his Hand, which done he sprinkles the Infant three times, saying, Beesmebrad er-Rabi, Kaddemin, Akreri, Menhal el gennet Alli Koulli Kralek; or, In the Name of the Lord, first and last of the World and of Paradise, the high Creator of all things. After that, the Bishop reads something again in his Book, while the God-father plunges the Child all over in the Water; after which they go all to the Parents House to feast. If any tax their Baptism for insufficient, in regard the Three Persons of the Divinity are not nam'd therein, they can make no rational defence for them­selves. Nor have they any knowledge of the Mystery of the Holy Trinity, only they say that Christ is the Spirit and Word of the Eternal Father. They are so blind as to believe the Angel Gabriel to be the Son of God, begotten upon Light; yet will not believe the Eternal Generation of Christ, as God. Yet they confess he became Man, to free us from the Punishment of Sin: and that he was conceiv'd in the womb of a Virgin without the knowledge of Man, by means of the Water of a certain Fountain which she drank of. They believe he was crucifi'd by the Jews; that he rose the third day; and that his Soul ascending up to Heaven, his Body remain'd on Earth. But like the Mahometans they corrupt their Faith, by saying, that Christ vanish'd when the Jews came to take him, and that he deluded their cruelty with his Shadow.

[Page 91] In the Eucharist they make use of Meal or Flow'r, kneaded up with Wine and Oyl: For, say they, the Body of Christ being compos'd of the two principal parts; Flesh and Blood, the Flowr and the Wine do most perfectly represent them; besides, that Christ at his Supper made use of Wine only, and not of Water. They add Oyl, to signifie the benefit we receive by his favour of the Sacrament, and to put us in mind of our Love and Charity towards God and our Neighbour. To make this Wine, they take Grapes dry'd in the Sun, which they call in their Lan­guage Zebibes, and casting Water upon them, let them steep for so long a time. The same Wine they use for the Consecration of the Cup. They make use of Raisins, in regard they are more easie to be had than Wine; the Persians, espe­cially the Arabians, under whose Government they live, not permitting, nor indeed allowing them the use of it. Of all people that follow the Law of Mahomet, there are none so opposite to other Religions, as these Persians and Arabians about Balsara. The words of their Consecration, are no other than certain long Prayers, which they make to praise and thank God, at the same time blessing the Bread and Wine, never making mention of his Body and Blood; which they say is not at all necessary, because God knows their intentions. After all the Ceremonies are ended, the Priest takes the Bread, and having eaten some of it, distributes the rest to the People.

As to their Bishops and Priests, when any one dyes, who has a Son, they choose him in his place; and if he have no Son, they take the next a-kin that is most capable and best instructed in their Religion. They that make the Election, say several Prayers over him that is elected. If he be a Bishop, after he is receiv'd, and that he go about to Ordain others, he ought to fast six days, during which time he continually repeats certain Prayers over him that is to be ordain'd Priest, who also for his part fasts and prays all the said time. And whereas I say the Father succeeds the Son, it is to be observ'd, that among the Christians in those Parts, both Bishops and Priests marry, as do the rest of the people; only if their first Wife dye, they cannot marry another unless she be a Virgin. Moreover, they that are admitted to Ecclesiastical Functions, must be of the race of Bishops or Priests; and their Mothers must have been always Virgins when they were marry'd. All their Bishops and Priests wear their Hair long, and a little Cross wrought with a Needle.

When there is any Wedding to be, the kindred and persons invited go toge­ther with the Bridegroom, to the House where the Bride lives. Thither comes the Bishop also, and approaching the Bride, who is sitting under a Canopy; he asks her if she be a Virgin. If she answer that she is so, he makes her confirm it by an Oath. After which he returns to the Guests, and sends his Wife with some other skilful Women to make an inspection. If they find her to be a Virgin, the Bishop's Wife returns and makes Oath of it; and then they all go to the River, where the Bishop re-baptizes the Couple to be marry'd. Then they return toward the House, and making a stop before they come quite near it, the Bridegroom takes the Bride by the Hand, and leads her seven times from the Company to the House, the Bishop following them every time, and reading certain Prayers. After that they go into the House, and the Bride and Bridegroom place themselves under the Canopy, where they set their Shoulders one against another, and the Bishop reads again, causing them to lay their Heads together three times. Then op'ning a Book of Divination, and looking for the most fortunate day to consummate the Marriage, he tells them of it. But if the Bishop's Wife do not find the Bride to be a Virgin, the Bishop can proceed no farther, so that if the young Man have still a mind, he must go to some meaner Priest to perform the Ceremony. Which is the reason that the people take it for a great dishonour to be marry'd by any other than the Bishops; for when a Priest marries, 'tis an infallible sign that the Bride was no Virgin. The Priests also, in regard they take it to be a great Sin for a Woman to marry not being a Virgin, they never marry any such but by constraint, and to avoid ensuing inconveniencies; for sometimes in despite they will turn Mahometans. The reason of the Inspection is, that the Husbands may not be deceiv'd, and to keep the young Girls in awe.

As to what they believe touching the Creation of the World, they say, that the Angel Gabriel undertrking to create the World according to the command which [Page 92] God gave him, took along with him three hundred thirty-six thousand Demons, and made the earth so fertile, that it was but to Sow in the Morning and Reap at Night. That the same Angel taught Adam to Plant and Sow, and all other necessary Sciences. Moreover that the same Angel made the seven lower Spheres, the least whereof reaches to the Center of the World, in the same manner as the Heavens do, all contriv'd one within another. That all these Spheres are of different Metals, the first next the Center is of Iron, the second of Lead, the third of Brass, the fourth of Laten, the fifth of Silver, the sixth of Gold, and the seventh of Earth. The seventh is that which contains all the rest, and is the chiefest of all, as being the most fruitful and profitable to Man, and the most proper to preserve Man­kind, whereas the rest seem rather to be fram'd for its destruction. They believe that over every Heaven there is Water, whence they conclude that the Sun swims in a Ship upon that Water, and that the Mast of his Ship is a Cross, and that there are a great number of Boys and Servants to guide the Ships of the Sun and Moon. Besides, they have the Picture of a Barque, which they say belong'd to the Angel Becan, whom God sends to visit the Sun and Moon, to see whither they move right or no, and keep close to their duty.

In reference to the other World and life to come, they believe there is no other World, but where Angels and Devils, the Souls of good and bad reside. That in that World there are Cities, Houses, and Churches, and that the Evil Spirits have also Churches, where they pray, singing and rejoycing upon Instruments, and Feasting as in this World. That when any one lies at the point of death, three hundred and sixty Demons come and carry his Soul to a place full of Serpents, Dogs, Lyons, Tygres, and Devils; who, if it be the Soul of a wicked man, tear it in pieces; but being the Soul of a just man, it creeps under the bellies of those Crea­tures into the presence of God, who sits in his seat of Majesty to judge the World. That there are Angels also that weigh the Souls of Men in a Ballance, who being thought worthy, are admitted immediately into Glory. That the Angels and Devils are Male and Female, and beget Children. That the Angel Gabriel is the Son of God engender'd upon Light, and that he has a Daughter call'd Souret who has two Sons. That the Angel Gabriel has several Legions of Demons under him, who are instead of Souldiers, and others that are his Officers of justice, whom he sends from Town to Town, and from City to City, to punish the wicked.

In reference to Saints, they hold that Christ left twelve Apostles to Preach to the Nations. That the Virgin Mary is not dead, but that she lives somewhere in the World, though there be no person that can tell where she is. That next to her St. John is the chiefest Saint in Heaven, and next to them Zacharias and Elizabeth, of whom they recompt several miracles and Apocryphal tales. For they believe that they two begat St. John only by embracing; that when he came to be of age they Marry'd him, and that he had four Sons which he begat upon the waters of Jordan. That when St. John desir'd a Son, he pray'd to God, who drew him one out of the water; so that St. John had no more to do with his Wife but only to give her the Child to bring up. That he dy'd a natural death, but that he commanded his Disciples to Crucifie him after his death, that he might be like Christ. Lastly, that he dy'd in the City of Fuster, and that he was bury'd in a Chrystal Tomb, brought by miracle to the City, and that this Sepulchre was in a certain House near the River Jordan.

They highly honour the Cross, and sign themselves with it; but they are very careful of letting the Turks observe them; and during their Ceremonies, they set a Watch at their Church doors for fear the Turks should enter, and lay some unjust Fine upon them. When they have ador'd the Cross, they take it in two pieces, which they never put together again, 'till their Service rebegins. The reason why they so adore the Cross is drawn out of a Book which they have, Entitul'd The Di­van. Where it is written that every day early in the Morning, the Angels take the Cross and put it in the middle of the Sun, which receives his light from it, as the Moon also doth hers. They add, that in the same Book are Pictur'd two Ships, one of which is nam'd the Sun, the other the Moon; and tha [...] in every one of these Ships there is a Cross full of Bells: And moreover, that if there were not a Cross in those two Ships, the Sun and Moon would be depriv'd of Light, and the Ships would suffer Shipwrack.

[Page 93] Their chief Festivals are three. The one in Winter, that lasts three days, in memory of our first Parent and the Creation of the World. The other in the Month of August, that also lasts three days, which is call'd the Feast of St. John. The third which lasts five days in June, during which time they are all re-baptiz'd. They observe Sunday, doing no work upon that day. They neither Fast nor do any penance. They have no Canonical Books, but a great number of others that treat of nothing but Witchcraft, in which they believe their Priests to be very crafty, and that the Devils are at their beck. They hold all Women to be unclean, and that it is not at all available for them to come to the Church.

They have one Ceremony, which they call the Ceremony of the Hen, of which they make great Accompt, which is not lawful for any to perform but a Priest Born of a Virgin at the time of her Marriage. When a hen is to be kill'd, the Priest puts off his ordinary habit, and puts on a Linnen Cloth, girding his waste with a second, and throwing a third about his shoulders like a Stole. Then he takes the Fowl, and plunges it in the water to make it clean; after which he turns toward the East and cuts off the head, holding the Body in his hand 'till it has bled out all the blood. While the Hen bleeds, with his Eyes lifted up to Heaven, as if he were in an extasie, he repeats in his own Language these words following: In the name of God, may this flesh be profitable to all that eat of it? They observe the same ceremony when they kill Sheep. For first, they cleanse the place very carefully where the Sheep is to be kill'd, washing it with water, and strewing it with boughs, nor is the number of people small that assists at this Ceremony, as if it were at some solemn Sacrifice. If you ask them why it is not lawful for the Laity to kill Fowls? They answer that it is no more lawful for them to kill than to consecrate them; and that is all the reason which they bring. They eat of nothing drest by the Turks; and if a Turk ask them for drink, so soon as he has drank, they break the Cup. And to make the Turks more hateful, they Picture Mahomet like a great Gyant, shut up in Prison in Hell with four more of his Parents; and they say, that all the Turks are carry'd into the same place full of wild Beasts to be there devour'd.

They pretend all to Salvation. For say they, after the Angel Gabriel had fram'd the World by the command of God, he thus discours'd him. Lord God, said he, behold I have built the World as thou didst command me. It has put me to a great deal of trouble, and my Brethren also, to raise such high Mountains that seem to sustain Heaven. And who indeed was able to make way for Rivers through Mountains without vast labour, and to give every thing its proper place? Moreover, great God, by the aid of thy powerfull Arm, we have brought the World to so much perfection, that men cannot think upon any thing needful for them, which is not to be found therein. But instead of that satis­faction which I ought to have for having accomplish'd so great a work, I find no reason but to be altogether griev'd. When God demanding the cause, the Angel Gabriel answer'd: My God and Father, I will tell you what afflicts me; because that after the making of the World as I have done, I foresee that there will come into it a prodigious number of Jews, Turks, Idolaters, and other Infidels, Enemies of your Name, who will be un­worthy to eat and enjoy the Fruits of our Labours. To whom God thus reply'd: Never grieve, my Son, there shall live in this World which thou hast built, certain Christians of St. John who shall be my friends, and shall be all sav'd. Upon which the Angel admiring how that should be! What, said he, will there not be several Sinners among those Christians, and by consequence will not they be your Enemies? To whom God thus concluded: That at the day of Judgment the Good should Pray for the Wicked, and by that means they should be all forgiv'n, and obtain Salvation.

These Christians have a strange Antipathy against the Blew Colour call'd Indigo, which they will not so much as touch. For certain Jews dreaming that their Law should be abolish'd by St. John, told it their Country-men. Which they under­standing, and seeing that St. John prepar'd to Baptize Christ, in a great rage, fetch'd a vast quantity of Indigo, which they call Nill in their Language, and flung it into Jordan. They add also that those waters continu'd unclean for some time, and had hinder'd the Baptism of Christ, had not God sent his Angels with a large Vessel of water, which he caus'd them to fill out of Jordan before the Jews had defil'd it with Indigo; for which reason God particularly Curs'd that Colour.

CHAP. IX. A Continuation of the Road from Balsara to Ormus.

THe tenth of April we set out from Balsara for Bander-Congo, for which passage we hir'd a Terrade or a Barque for the purpose; for they which are laden with Dates are generally so overcharg'd, that if a Storm rises, they are in danger of being overset. The River of Balsara is very dan­gerous, by reason of the Sands which also lie up and down the Persian Gulf, and are very prejudicial to Navigation in that place. On both sides the Gulf that sepa­rates Persia from Arabia the Happy, live a sort of poor people that follow no other Trade than fishing; so poor, that when they bring fish to your Vessel, they require nothing for it but Rice; and not the best neither, but such course stuff as we feed our Hens and Pigs withall. I gave them a Sack of thirty or forty pounds, and bid them make merry with it, but they told me, they must be careful how they spent such Rice as that, unless it were for their Sick, or at their Weddings; so that if the rest of Arabia the Happy be like that, assuredly 'tis rather a most unfortunate Country.

There are several Isles in the Persian Gulf, but the chiefest of all is the Isle of Baharen, where they fish for Pearls, of which I have spoken in its proper place.

Near to the place where Euphrates falls from Balsarae into the Sea, there is a little Island, where the Barques generally come to an Anchor, in expectation of the wind. There we stay'd four days, whence to Bandar-Congo it is fourteen days Sail, and we got thither the twenty-third of April. This place would be a far better habitation for the Merchants than Ormus, where it is very unwholesom and dangerous to live. But that which hinders the Trade from Bandar-Congo, is because the Road to Lar is so bad, by reason of the want of Water, and craggy narrow ways, which only Camels can endure; but from Ormus to Lar the way is tollerable. We stay'd at Bandar-Congo two days, where there is a Portugais Factor, who receives one half of the Customs by agreement with the King of Persia. By the way take notice, that they who will go by Water from Ormus to Balsara, must take the Natives for their Pilots, and be continually sounding besides.

The thirtieth, we hir'd a Vessel for Bander-Abassi, and after three or four hours Sailing, we put into a Village upon the Sea-side, in the Island of Keck­mishe.

Keckmishe is an Island three Leagues about, and about five or six from Ormus. It exceeds in Fertility all the Islands of the East, that produce neither Wheat nor Bar­ley; but at Keckmishe is a Magazine of both, without which Ormus would hardly subsist, in regard it furnishes that City with most of their Provision for their Horses. There is in the Island a Spring of good Water, for the preservation of which, the Persians have built a Fort, least the Portugals when they held Ormus, should get it into their Possession.

In 1641. aud 1642. the Hollanders falling out with the King of Persia about their Silk Trade, besieg'd this Island. For the Ambassadors of the Duke of Holstein com­ing into Persia, the Dutch were jealous that they came to fetch away all the Silk; and thereupon enhanc'd the Market from forty-two to fifty Tomans. When the Ambassadors were gone, the Dutch would pay no more than forty-four, which was two Tomans more than they were us'd to do. The King netl'd that they would not stand to their words, forbid that they should make sale of their Goods 'till they had paid their Customs, from which 'till that time they were exempted. Thereupon the Hollanders besieg'd the Fortress of Keckmishe, but the Heats were so intollera­ble, that they were forc'd to quit their design with great loss of their Men; and at length by great Presents to the chief Courtiers, they obtain'd to pay no more than forty-six Tomans.

Larec is an Island nearer to Ormus than Keckmishe, well inhabited, and so stor'd with Stags and Hinds, that in one day we kill'd five and forty.

From Keckmishe we Sail'd for Ormus, where we arriv'd the first of May. I had [Page 95] put my choicest Goods in a Chest directed for the Hollaad Commander at Ormus, by which means I got the Custom free.

The Persian Gulf is the most dangerous Gulf I know, by reason of the shallow­ness and sharp Promontories that point out into the Sea; and therefore the best way is to take a Pilot at Ormus or Bander-Congo, and the most proper Pilots are the Fisher­men, who are only skill'd in that Sea and no farther. The Soyl about the Persian Gulf is dry Sand and without Water, so that it is impossible to Travel by Land from Ormus to Balsara. The Merchants would be glad to find a way through the Coast of Arabia to get to Mascaté, whence there might a cut be made to Sindi, Diu, or Surat, which are the three chief Ports of India. During the difference between the King of Persia and the Hollanders, the Emir of Vodana an Arabian Prince; offer'd to shew them an easie Road from Mascaté to Balsara. But the Hollanders fearing to break with the King of Persia, where they vended above fifteen or sixteen hundred thousand pounds of their Pepper, and paid therewith for all their Silk, did not think it worth their while to quit Ormus to settle themselves at Mas­caté.

Had it been yielded to, the way had been from Balsara to Elcatif a Sea-Town in Arabia the Happy, where there is a Fishery for Pearls that belongs to the Emir of Elcatif. From Elcatif to Mascalat, another City of Arabia, and the residence of another Emir. From Mascalat to Vodana, a good handsom City seated upon the meeting of two little Rivers that carry Barques to the Sea, and run together by the single name of Moyesur. The Soyl about Vodana produces no Corn, and very little Rice; but it abounds in Fruits, especially Prunes and Quinces, which are not so sour as ours, and are eaten by the Natives as Pears. There are extraordinary good Melons and great Store of Grapes, of which the Jews, who inhabit the best part of the City, are permitted to make Wine. From Vodana to the Gulf, the County of each side is full of Palm-Trees, the Dates being the Food of the common people, who have not Money to buy either Corn or Rice. From Vodana to Mascatè it is but fifteen Leagues, though by the Maps, which are Erroneous, the way is describ'd to be much longer.

Being at Ormus, the Emir of Vodana shew'd me a Pearl transparent and perfectly round, that weigh'd seventeen Abas, or fourteen Carats and seven Eights; for in all the Pearl Fisheries of the East they use no other weights but Abas, which make seven Eights of a Carat. I offer'd him 300000 Piasters, or 60000 Roupies for the same Pearl, but the Emir refus'd to take it, telling me that he had been offer'd more Money for it by several Princes of Asia, who had sent to him to buy it, but that he was resolv'd never to part with it.

CHAP. X. Of the Authors first Voyage, and the adventures of four French-men.

I Departed out of Paris in the year 1657, and Embark'd at Marseilles for Ligorn.

We set Sail from Ligorn seven Vessels together, two bound for Venice, one for Constantinople, one for Aleppo, and three for Smyrna, in one of which be­ing a Dutch Vessel I Embark'd. But before I leave Smyrna, to begin my Journey from Tauris, give me leave to relate the story of four French-men, the various acci­dents whereof will much enlight'n the Reader into the Customs and Manners, as well of the Turks as Persians.

While I stay'd the departure of the Caravan, which could not be ready in five or six Weeks, as also upon the advice of a rich Jew and a Merchant of Jewels at Constan­tinople, who had several Pearls to sell, as well for their beauty as their bigness, the best Commodity a man can carry to the Indies, I sent to Constantinople a person that I [Page 96] carry'd along with me, one that was well vers'd in that sort of Commodity. There was a Norman Gentleman nam'd de Reville then at Smyrna, who would needs accom­pany my Factor, so that they went both together in a Vessel that carry'd the French Ambassador and his Lady to Constantinople. This Gentleman had two or three thou­sand Ducats in his Purse, wanting neither wit nor courage, besides a good presence; but perhaps he was more hasty in his proceedings than the reserv'dness of that Coun­try requir'd. He had left the Service of the Muscovites, thinking to find an employ­ment in the Service of the Venetians at Candy; but failing in his expectations, he re­solv'd to travel into Persia. While he was at Constantinople, the Jews, who lay hold upon all opportunities of gain, soon found out my Factor; and besides the Pearls which he desir'd to see, they shew'd him several other rich Stones to try whether they could draw him in; for he had refus'd the Pearls because they held them at too high a Rate. The Norman Gentleman fell into their acquaintance; and picking out the richest, told him, that being resolv'd for the Indies, he had a mind to lay out four thousand Ducats in Pearls. He added also, that he would pay him half in Money, half in Goods, and at the same time shew'd the Jew two thousand Ducats, which the Jew had already devour'd with his eyes. Some four days after, the Jew brought the Gentleman four fair Pearles with some Emraulds; and you may be sure they easily agreed upon the price, in regard the Gentleman had a design to put a trick upon the Jew. Thereupon he shews his Ducats a second time, which the Jew, who thought he had a Cully, presently told out as his own. After that the Jew desiring to see the Goods, which made up the other part of the payment, the Gen­tleman without any more ado told him, that all the Merchandize which he had to pay him, was a good strong Quartan Ague which had held him a long time, and indeed such a one, that he could not possibly meet with a better, but that he would not over-rate it, in regard he ask'd but two thousand Ducats for it. The Jew who was rich and in great credit at Court, was so incens'd at his raillery, that he had like to have made a wicked stir about it. For as he had heard him say, that the Gentleman was going into the Indies and Persia, he might have easily caus'd him to have been apprehended for a Spy. But in regard the Jews can do nothing in point of Trade without the assistance of the French Merchants, he adviz'd with some of them, who perswaded him that it was an Act of folly, which it better became him to excuse, and desir'd him to take his Goods again, and put up the business; which with much ado they perswaded him to condescend to. The Gentleman fearing least the Jews underhand should do him a private mischief, stole away with what speed he could, and return'd to Smyrna.

De Reville being thus return'd to Smyrna, put himself into an Almadier, which is a small Vessel of War, that generally touches at Chio and Rhodes, being bound for Cyprus, from whence there is always some convenience or other to get to Alexan­dretta. From thence he went to Aleppo; and while he stay'd there he met with two French men, the one whose name was Neret, the other Hautin, who was an Ac­comptant. They had four wooden Chests full of false Stones ready set, by which they flatter'd themselves to be great gainers in Persia. They went from Marseilles to Seyde, from Seyde to Damas, hearing that there was an opportunity to Travel to Bagdat with the Topigi-Bashi. This Topigi-Bashi or chief of the Engineers, was he that assisted Amurath in the taking of Bagdat; in recompence whereof the Grand Signor gave him a Timar, or Lordship in Damas worth four thousand Crowns a year. Now it was his custom every year to visit Bagdat, and to stay there during the Season, that there was any probability of the King of Persia's besieging it; which Season not lasting above three or four Months, when that was over, he return'd to Damas. He usually had about thirty Horse with him, with which he never made it above eighteen or twenty days, taking the shortest cut directly through the Desert, where the Arabs are commanded to bring him Victuals upon the Road. And he is willing at any time when he has this opportunity, to conduct the Franks that desire it that way, in regard they are never ungrateful to him for it. These two Franks therefore having desir'd that they might be taken into his Company, the Topigi-Bashi readily consented, provided they could stay 'till he went, which would not be 'till two or three Months; with which answer they were well satisfi'd. But the two Franks had not stay'd at Damas above seven or eight days but they fell acquainted with a Spahi, a Renegado of Marseilles, who proffer'd to carry them [Page 97] through the Road of Mesopotamia, so that they should be at Ispahan before the Topigi-Bashi set out from Damas. Thereupon they privately departed out of Damas without acquainting the Topigi-Bashi, who understanding they were gone after the courtesie he had offer'd them, was so enrag'd at their uncivillity, that he sent two of his Arabian Servants directly through the Wilderness to the Basha of Bagdat, to give him advice of two Franks that were to pass that way; who were most certainly Spies, describing them withall from head to foot.

In the mean while the two Franks being arriv'd at Ourfa, the Spahi, as he had contriv'd his own design at Damas, goes to the Basha of Ourfa, and informs him that he had con­ducted thither two Franks, who could be no other than Spies. Thereupon the Basha seiz'd upon them and all their Goods, among the rest he laid his paws upon seven hundred Piasters, of which the Spahi no doubt had his share. And this may serve for instruction to Travellers to have a care how and with whom they Travel in Turkie.

While the two French men were in hold at Ourfa by one sort of Treachery, the Norman Gentleman and his Companion arriv'd at Bagdat. But they had no sooner set their feet upon the shore, when the Basha verily believing them to be the persons, of whom the Topigi-Bashi had giv'n him notice, caus'd them to be brought before him, and seiz'd upon their Goods and Letters, of which they had several for the Consul of Aleppo, and other rich Merchants for Persia. The Basha sent for the Capuchins to read those Letters, but not believing them, he sent for a Sicilian Physitian which he had in his Service, and his Treasurer who had been a Slave tak'n in Candy. But neither Physitian, Treasurer, nor Capuchins would in­terpret any thing in prejudice of the French men; yet all that could not preserve them from being shut up in a Stable full of dung, and from being threaten'd to be Shot out of a Cannon's mouth if they would not confess the truth. Thereupon the Capuchins and the Cadi beg'd him to suspend his Sentence 'till the Arrival of the chief of the Cannoniers, to which he readily consented.

When the Topigi-Bashi came, the Basha commanded the Prisoners to be brought before him. But when the Topigi-Bashi deny'd them to be the persons, the Basha grew into such a rage, that he no less reproach'd the Topigi-Bashi for Treachery, than he had accus'd the others. Which so incens'd the Topigi-Bashi on the other side, that he never left 'till he had obtain'd the release of the two French men; yet not so, but that the Basha would have his due; so that Reville was forc'd to leave some of his Ducats behind which the Jew should have had.

But now to return to Smyrna where I expected the Caravan for some time in order to my Journey into Persia. Every thing being provided, we set forward in the Road for Tauris, which I have at large describ'd, nor was there any thing worthy observation all the way. I will only take notice, that when we departed from Tocat, in re­gard the heat was so extream, we left the common Road toward the North, and took the way through the Mountains, where there is always a fresh Breeze and store of shady Lanes. In many of which high Mountains we met with Snow, and abun­dance of excellent Sorrel; and upon the tops of some of those Mountains, we met with several sorts of shells, as it had been upon the Sea shore, which is very extraordinary. From Erzerom we went to Cars; from Cars we came to Erivan, The Kan was not there then, being retir'd during the heat into the Mountains, a days Journey from the City. His Lieutenant telling me that I could not well pass farther without paying my duty to the Kan; I follow'd his advice, and found him in his Tent in a fair Dale, where there was a great quantity of Snow: and where when it began to melt, appear'd several beautiful Flowers, so that Summer and Winter seem'd to lodge both in the same place. The Kan entertain'd both me and all my Company most nobly for ten days. I drove also a small Trade with him. For I durst not shew him the rarities I had, being design'd for the King. For as in India, so in Persia, nei­ther will the King look upon any thing which his Subjects have seen before, nor will the Subject buy any thing which the King has seen, it being an affront to present any thing to the King which he had formerly view'd, and the Subject buys nothing rare but what he intends to present.

Being past Erivan you may leave your Caravan when you please, by reason of the security of the Roads in Persia. And indeed I intended to have visited the Kan of Gengéa, but finding the Road so full of Rocks and Precipices, where a man was [Page 98] continually in danger of breaking his Neck, I turn'd my Horses head and met the Caravan at Nacksivan in the Road to Tauris.

From Tauris to Ispahan I met with nothing worthy observation. When I came to the Court I was well receiv'd by the King, and I sold him as many Jewels and other Goods of great value, as came to sixty-two thousand Crowns. But of this more in another place.

CHAP. I. Of the Authors sixth and last Voyage from his setting out of Paris, to his Landing at Smyrna.

I Set out of Paris in the year 1663. for Lyons, with six several Servants of several professions, which I thought most proper for my business. I carry'd with me the value of about four hundred thousand Livers, part in Jewels, part in Goldsmiths work and other curiosities, which I design'd for the King of Persia and the Great Mogul. Being at Lyons I bought a Steel Mirrour round and hollow, about two foot and a half in Diameter, would immediately melt a Half-Crown by the heat of the Sun-beams: and if you set a Candle by it in the night, you might read, two hundred Paces off in your Bed by the reflection.

From Lyons I rode to Marseilles, and set Sail for Ligorn the tenth of January, 1664. in a small Bark, but being scar'd by a great Vessell that we saw off at Sea, we came to an Anchor in the Port of Agaïe, two Leagues from Frejus, where there stood a pittiful Fort with two or three Houses. There we also went ashore and saw a Garden, the Alleys of which were distinguish'd with rows of Citron and Orange Trees, which look'd as Green in the depth of Winter as in the midst of Summer, with several other curiosities after the mode of Italy. We were no sooner got aboard again, but we perceiv'd another Vessel making into the same Port with sull Sail. It was a Vessel which the Masters of the Forein Office at Toulon, had set out [Page 100] to force all Ships that were bound into Italy to pay certain Customs, which those of Marseilles would not pay when they came into the Port of Toulon. Thereupon foreseeing that there would be mischief done, I call'd for my little Chests that con­tain'd my Goods of greatest value, carrying some part my self, and giving the rest to one of my most trusty Servants, thinking to have skipt into a Genoa Bark that lay hard by us; but instead of leaping a-board, I fell into the Sea: where by reason of the Tumult I had perish'd without relief, had I not by good fortune laid hold of a Cable and redeem'd my self. At what time one of my Servants luckily coming to my ayd, with much ado drew me up safe again.

Having escap'd this danger, I got a-shoar with such of my Servants as I had about me, and meeting with a Bark of Frontignan that carry'd Languedock-Wine to the Coast of Italy, I hir'd him for Ligorn; and setting Sail, we first touch'd Villa-franca, and afterwards at Monaco.

At Monaco I went a-shoar, and went to wait upon Madam the Princess, who shew'd me the Rarities in the Castle; among the rest, several pieces of extraordinary Painting, several pieces of Clock-work and Goldsmiths-work. But among all her Curiosities she shew'd me two pieces of Crystal, about the bigness of two Fists each, in one of which there was above a Glass full of Water, in the other a good quan­tity of Moss; which were clos'd in by Nature when the Crystal first con­geal'd.

Monaco is a Castle situated upon a steep Rock, advancing out into the Sea; which advantage, together with others which it receives from Art and Nature, renders it one of the most considerable Forts in Italy.

The next day finding the Frontignan-Vessel to be deep-laden, and that it made little way, I took a Faluke, and kept along by the Shoar, which was most pleasantly adorn'd with beautiful Villages and Houses, as far as Savona; where I chang'd my Faluke, to compleat the rest of the way which I had to Genoa. Half the way we did very well, but the Wind rising, we were forc'd to put in to a great Town, where we landed; and from thence, having but nine Miles, I got in good time by Horse to Genoa. There can be no Prospect certainly more pleasing than that nine Miles riding. For on the one side you see nothing but a continu'd Row of magni­ficent Buildings and lovely Gardens; on the other a calm Shoar, upon which the Waves seem not to beat, but lovingly to kiss.

Arriving at Genoa, I met with the rest of my Servants; and at the end of two days I embarqu'd for Ligorn, where we arriv'd in four and twenty hours.

From Ligorn I went to the Court of Florence, to wait upon the Grand Duke. By whom I had the honour to be admitted into his Chamber, where I found no body attending but one Mute, who had a long time serv'd his Highness: and I observ'd that they understood one another by Signs, as perfectly as if the Mute had had his Speech and Hearing. So that when-ever the Duke sent him into his Closet for any Papers or other thing whatsoever, he never fail'd to bring the right.

After I had tak'n my leave of the Duke, he sent me a noble Present of Wine and Fruits; but that which I valu'd more than all the rest, was a Case of Medicaments and Counter-poysons, in the composition whereof the Italians are very exquisite. And yet they did me no service; for when I came into the hot Countries their fermentation was so strong, that all the Oyls and Treacles broke their several Boxes, that I could save nothing of that precious Present.

The next day, being the twenty-sixth of March 1664, I embarqu'd with all my Servants in a Dutch Vessel call'd The Justice.

The twenty-seventh we staid in the Road, expecting the rest of the Fleet, con­sisting of eleven Ships, two Men of War, and nine Merchant-mon; four of which were bound for Smyrna, three for Ancona, and two for Venice. About seven that evening we set Sail, and all that night the Wind was favourable, but blew hard and veer'd often; which was the reason that two of our Fleet separated from us, steering be­tween the Isle of Elbe and Corsica, while we kept on between the Isle of Elba and Italy.

The twenty-eighth by eight in the Morning we found our selves between Porto Ferraro and Piombino, and it being fair Weather, we had a pleasant prospect of those two places. From thence we steer'd between two Ilands, the one call'd Pal­majela, the other being nameless. About six hours after we saw Portolongone, afterwards at a distance we descry'd Monte-Christo. An hour after Noon we dis­cover'd [Page 101] Castiglon-sore, all the rest of the day we coasted by the Ilands of Gigio and Sanuti.

The twenty-ninth, with the same Wind at North-West, by Morning we disco­ver'd the Ilands of Pontia and Palmerola, and about Evening those of Ventitione and Ischia. Night approaching, and there being no news of the Ships we had lost, instead of making the Pharo of Messina, it was resolv'd that we should steer a Course round about Messina, where we expected to overtake them. At eleven a Clock in the Evening we had but little Wind at North-North-West, so that we made not above fourteen Leagues of way.

The thirty-first the same Wind continu'd, with a high Sea; but about nine at Night the Wind chopping about to the West, we kept our former Course.

The first of April, by eight of the Clock in the Morning we discover'd the three Ilands that lye before Trepano, Levanzo, Maretima, and Favagna.

The second and third the Weather was ill, and the Wind unconstant, so that we made but little way.

The fourth, by break of day we discover'd the Iland of Pantalarea.

The fifth by Morning we found our selves within a League and a half of the Coast of Sicily, just against Cape Passaro, at what time, the Weather being fair, we had a view of Mount Gibello, all cover'd with Snow. Doubling the Cape in the Afternoon, we discover'd the Coast of Saragossa. The sixth we had little or no Wind. But the seventh in the Morning, the Weather being fair, we discover'd Cape Spartivento; and the same Wind continuing all that day, toward Evening we sail'd in view of other Ilands of Calabria.

The eighth we found our selves near to Cape Borsano, and all the rest of the day we sail'd in view of Cape Stillo and Cape delle Colonne.

The ninth we made little way. But on the tenth in the Morning the Wind coming about to the South, we found our selves at the Entry of the Gulf of Venice, between Cape St. Mary and the Coast of Greece, where the Mountains were cover'd with Snow. About ten of the Clock we tack'd to our own Course, while the Ships that were bound for Venice and Ancona entred the Gulf.

The tenth by Morning we saw two little Islands, the one call'd Fauno, the other Merlera; and were in sight of Corfu. About Noon, the Wind being at East, we kept out at Sea: and about Evening abundance of little Birds lighted upon our Cordage, of which we caught enow to make a lusty Fricassie. We also caught four Falcons, Owls, and good store of Turtles.

The eleventh and twelfth the Wind being at East, we lay hovering about the Shoar, without making any way.

The fourteenth and fifteenth having the Wind at North-West, we were two days without seeing Land, yet we caught good store of Birds.

The sixteenth the same Wind continuing, we found our selves near the Island of Zant. From eight in the Morning 'till three in the Afternoon we were becalm'd; but then a good brisk West Wind carry'd away all our little Birds.

The seventeenth and eighteenth we were becalm'd.

The nineteenth in the Morning, the Wind being at North-West, we discover'd Cape Gullo, between Modon and Coron, in the Morea.

The twentieth, with the same Wind that blew fresh, we found our selves by Morning within two Cannon-shot of Cape Matapan, which is the most Southern Cape of all Europe. About Noon the Wind coming full West, in three hours we pass'd by the Point of the Island Cerigo.

The twenty-first in the Morning, we discover'd the Islands of Caravi and Falconera on the one side, and Cape Schilli on the other hand. Two hours after, having a fresh Gale at South-West, about Evening we were in view of the Island of St. George.

The twenty-second though the Wind slackn'd, yet we made some way; for in the Morning we found our selves between the Island of Zea and the Morea, near to another Cape delle Colonne: afterwards we discover'd the Island of Negropont, and doubl'd the Cape three hours after Noon, having left sight of the Island of Andros by ten in the Forenoon.

The twenty-third the Wind blowing fresh all the night, by morning we found our selves near the Island of Ipsera. At noon we made the Point of the Island of [Page 102] Chio, near to the Land; and that night we came to an Anchor near the Castle, being becalm'd.

The twenty-fourth the Wind rose at North-West, which blew us into the Port of Smyrna.

The twenty-fifth we went a-shoar, having had as quiet a passage as ever I had in my Life for twenty days together.

CHAP. II. A Continuation of the Author's sixth Voyage, as he travel'd from Smyrna to Ispahan.

WE staid at Smyrna from the twenty-fifth of April to the ninth of June; during which time there happ'nd so terrible an Earthquake, that I had like to have tumbl'd out of my Bed.

The Caravan being ready to set out for Tauris, I took with me three Armenian Servants, besides those that I carry'd out of France to serve me upon the Road.

We set out of Smyrna upon Monday the ninth of June at three a Clock in the afternoon. The Caravan rendevouz'd at Pont-garbashi, three Leagues from the City, consisting of six hundred Camels, and almost the same number of Horse. We set out the next night, two hours after midnight. As for the Road I shall say nothing, only relate some Passages that fell out by the way.

Being come to Erivan, the fourteenth of September we encamp'd in a pleasant green place between the Castle and the old Town; for we would not lye in the Inn, because we heard that several sick people lodg'd there. We staid there two days; during which time I resolv'd to wait upon the Kan, I found him in a Room made in one of the Arches of the Bridge which is built over the River, which I have describ'd already, with several Captains and Officers about him: when he had ask'd me whence I came, and whither I was travelling, he caus'd a Glass of Liquor to be fill'd me. After that I presented him with a Prospective-Glass, six pair of ordinary Spectacles, twelve other pair of Spectacles that cast several Reflexions, two little Pistols, and a Steel to strike Fire, made like a Pistol. All which pleas'd him extremely well, especially the Spectacles, for he was sixty years of age. Thereupon he commanded a Lamb, Wine, Fruit, and Melons to be carry'd to my Tent, and that I should want nothing. After that we sate down to Dinner, but I observ'd the Kan himself drank no Wine, though he press'd me to it. The reason was, because he was an Agis, that is, one that had made his Pilgrimage to Mecca; for then it is not lawful to drink Wine, or any other inebriating Drink. After Dinner, finding him in a pleasant humour, I resolv'd to complain to him of one of the Custom-Officers about an injury he had done me. For it is usual with the Customer in this place to op'n the Chests of all the Merchants, both Turks and Armenians, to the end that if they have any thing of Rarity the Kan of Erivan may see it: for many times, he buyes what pleases him best to send to the King. This Officer would not excuse me for his Custom, and therefore at my very first arrival he would have me to op'n my Chests; and because I did not do it according to his Orders, he ask'd me very rudely why I had not obey'd his Commands: I answer'd him as surlily, that I would op'n my Chest no where unless it were in the presence of the King, and that as for him, I knew him not: Upon that he threaten'd me, that if he did not find my Chests op'n the next day, he would op'n them by force; thereupon I said no more, but bid-him have a care I did not make him repent of what he had done already. This was the ground of the Quarrel, and I was about to have complain'd to the Kan; but his Nephew intreated me for the love I bare him, not to say any thing of it, and promis'd to send the Customer to me to beg my Pardon, which he did, and the Customer was forc'd to crave it heartily. To avoid the same inconvenience for the future, I desir'd the Kan to give me his Pasport, to the end I might pass Custom-free [Page 103] through the Territories of his Government, which he freely and courteously granted me: Come, said he, and dine with me to morrow, and you shall have it.

The twenty-sixth of September we departed from Erivan, and the ninth of Novem­ber we came to Tauris, taking the ordinary Road.

At Erivan two of my Servants, the one a Watch-maker, the other a Gold-smith, dy'd; I left them sick there, but caus'd them to be buried in the Church-yard belonging to the Armenians. One of them dy'd in fifteen days, of a Gangrene, which eat out his Mouth and Throat; being the Disease of the Country. Though had the Armenians known that one of them had been a Protestant, they would never have allow'd him to have been bury'd in their Church-yard.

Here observe the exact justice, wherewith the Persians preserve the Goods of Strangers. For the Civil Judge hearing of the death of the Watch-maker, caus'd his Chamber to be seal'd up, to the end the Goods might be preserv'd for the kindred of the deceas'd, if they came to demand them. I return'd to Tauris a twelve-month after, and found the Chamber close seal'd up.

We staid twelve days at Tauris: during which time I resolv'd to attend the Kan of Shamaqui, a frontler Town of Persia toward the Caspian Sea; but I found him not there, in regard it was Harvest season, at what time he goes to gather the King's and his own Duties.

Two days journey on this side Shamaqui you pass the Aras, and for two days journey you travel through a Country all planted with white Mulberry-Trees; the Inhabitants being all Silk-Weavers. Before you come to the City, you must cross over several Hills: But I think I should rather have call'd it a great Town, where there was nothing remarkable but a fair Castle which the Kan built himself; I speak of the time past: For as I return'd from this present Voyage of which I now write, when I came to Tauris I understood, that there had happen'd such a terrible Earth­quake in the Town as had laid all the Houses in a heap; none escaping that dismal subversion, but only one Watch-maker of Geneva, and one more who was a Camel-driver. I had several times design'd to return into France through Muscovy; but I durst never adventure, being certainly inform'd that the Muscovite never permitted any person to go out of Muscovy into Persia, nor to come out of Persia into Mus­covy. So that it was by particular connivence that that favour was granted to the Duke of Holstein's Ambassadors. This last time I was resolv'd to have try'd whe­ther I could have open'd a Passage from Persia through Muscovy into France, but the Ruine of Shamaqui deterr'd me.

We departed from Tauris the twenty-second of November, from whence to Cashan we met with nothing considerable, but only one of the Muscovite Ambassadors upon his return into his own Country, with a small Retinue of sixty, his Companion dying at Ispahan.

Upon Sunday the fourteenth of December taking Horse by three of the Clock in the morning, the Ice bearing very well, we came to Ispahan about noon: but in regard it was slippery before day, and very plashy after the Sun was up, the Journey was both tedious and troublesom.

CHAP. III. The Road from Aleppo to Tauris, through Diarbequir and Van.

THere are two Roads more remaining to be describ'd; one through the North part of Turkie, the other through the South. The first through Diarbequir and Van, and so to Tauris; the second through Anna, and the small Desert leading to Bagdat.

I will describe the first of these Roads, and make a skip at the first leap to Bir, whither I have already led you in the Road from Aleppo.

From Bir or Beri, you travel all along the River Euphrates to Cachemé.

From Cachemé you come to Milesara, where you pay the Customs of Oursa, [Page 104] when you do not pass through the City, which amounts to four Piasters for every Horse-load.

From Milesara you come to the River Arzlan-chaye, or, the Lion River, by reason of the rapidity of the Stream which falls into Euphrates.

From Arzlan-chaye you go to Seuerak. This is a City, water'd by a River, that also falls into Euphrates. It is environ'd with a great Plain to the North, the West, and South. The way which the Horses, Mules, and Camels keep is cut through the Rock like a Channel, two Foot deep, where you must also pay half a Piaster for every Horse-load.

From Seuerak you come to Bogazi, where there are two Wells, but not a House near; and where the Caravan usually lodges.

From Bogazi you come to Deguirman-Bogazi, and from Deguirman-Bogazi to Mirzatapa, where there is only an Inn.

From Mirzatapa you come to Diarbequir, which the Turks call Car-emu.

Diarbequir is a City situated upon a rising ground, on the right side of Tigris, which in that place forms a Half-moon; the descent from the Walls to the River being very steep. It is encompass'd with a double Wall; the outward Wall being strengthned with sixty-two Towers, which they report were built in Honour of the sixty two Disciples of JESUS CHRIST. The City has but three Gates, over one of which there is an Inscription in Greek and Latin, that makes mention of one Constantine. There are in it two or three fair Piazza's, and a magnificent Mosquee, which was formerly a Christian Church. It is surrounded with very decent Charnel-houses, near to which the Moullah's, Dervi's, Book-sellers and Stationers do live, together with all those other people that concern the Law. About a League from the City there is a Channel cut out of Tigris, that brings the Water to the City: And in this Water are all the red Marroquins wash'd that are made at Diarbequir, surpassing in colour'all others in the East: which Manufacture employs a fourth part of the Inhabitants of the City. The Soil is very good, and yields according to expectation; there is excellent Bread and very good Wine, nor is there any better Provision to be had in any part of Persia: more especially, there is a sort of Pigeons which in goodness excel all the several kinds that we have in Europe. The City is very well peopl'd, and it is thought there are in it above twenty thousand Christians. The two thirds are Armenians, the rest Nestorians, with some few Jacobites. There are also some few Capuchins, that have no House of their own, but are forc'd to lodg [...] in an Inn.

The Basha of Diarbequir is one of the Viziers of the Empire. He has but an incon­siderable Infantry, which is not much requisite in that Country; the Curds and Arabs which infest that Country being all Horse-men. But he is strong in Cavalry, being able to bring above twenty thousand Horse into the Field. A quarter of an hours riding on this side Diarbequir there is a great Town with a large Inn, where the Caravans that go and come from Persia rather choose to lye than at Diarbequir; in regard that in the City-Inns, they pay three or four Piasters for every Chamber, but in the Country-Inns there is nothing demanded.

At Diarbequir, you cross the Tigris, which is always fordable unless when the Snow and Rains have swell'd it; for then you must go a quarter of a League higher, and cross it over a great Stone-Bridge. Half a League on the other side of Tigris stands a Village, with an Inn, which is the Rendevous of the whole Caravan, and where they that first come have time enough to provide themselves for a Journey of nine or ten days, as far as Betlis. For though you may find Towns and Inns thick enough upon the Road, yet there is no good Bread to be met with.

When the Caravan proceeds, the first days journey is fourteen hours on Horse-back, and you come to lye at Shaye-batman, where you must pay a Piaster for every Horse-load.

From Chaye-batman you come to Chikaran.

From Chikaran to Azou, which you leave half a League from the great Road, where the Toll-gatherers take their Toll, which is four Piasters upon every Horse-load.

From Azou you come to Ziarat; from Ziarat to Zerque, where you pay a Duty of two Piasters for every Horse-load.

From Zerche to Cochakan.

[Page 105] From Cochakan to Carakan, a bad Inn; where you enter among the Mountains, that being full of Torrents reach as far as Betlis.

From Carakan to Betlis, a City belonging to a Bey or Prince of the Country, the most potent and most considerable of all the rest; for he neither acknowledges the Grand Signor nor the Persian: whereas all the other Beys are Tributary either to the one or the other. And it is the Interest of those two Potentates to correspond with him; for it's an easie thing for him to stop up the passage from Aleppo to Tau­ris, or from Tauris to Aleppo; the Streights of the Mountains being so narrow, that ten Men may defend them against a thousand. Coming near Betlis you must travel a whole day among high steep Mountains, that reach two Miles beyond, with Torrents on each side; the way being cut out of the Rock on each side, where there is but just room for a Camel to pass. The City stands between two high Mountains, equally distant one from the other, and about the height of Montmartre. It is built like a Sugar-loaf, the ascent being so steep on every side, that there is no getting to the top, but by wheeling and winding about the Mountain. The top of all is a Plat­form, where stands a Castle well built, at the Gate whereof is a Draw-Bridge. Then you pass through two great Courts, and then into a third, opposite to the Bey's Apartment. It is very troublesom to get up to the top of the Castle, and a Man must be very well Hors'd that does it. There is no other person but the Bey and his Esquire, who is permitted to ride up on Horse-back. There is one Inn within the City, and another as it were without, in which the Merchants rather choose to lye than in the other, by reason that it is ready to be overflown when the Torrents swell, that run through every Street. The Bey, beside the strength of his Passes, is able to bring above five and twenty thousand Horse into the Field; and a very considerable Body of Foot, compos'd of the Shepherds of the Country, who are to be ready at a Call. I went to wait upon the Bey himself, and made him a Present of two pieces of Satin, the one streakt with Silver, and the other with Gold: two white Bonnets, such as the Turks wear, very fine, and adorn'd with Silver at the top; together with a sute of Handkerchiffs, streak'd with Red and Silver. While I staid with the Bey, who sent for Coffee for me according to the custom, a Courier came to him from the Basha of Aleppo, to desire him that he would deliver up into his hands a French Chirurgeon that was his Slave, having been tak'n in Candia; complaining withal, that he had run away from him with the value of three thou­sand Crowns. The Bey, who understood what belong'd to a Sanctuary, and was resolv'd to protect the French-man, school'd the Messenger so severely, that he threaten'd to put him to death if he did not get him gone presently; charging him to tell his Master withal, that he would complain to the Grand Signor of his inso­lence; and that if he were strangl'd, he might thank himself. And indeed it behov'd the Great Turk to keep fair correspondence with him; in regard that if the Persians should at any time besiege Van, the Grand Signor must march through the Bey's Country to relieve it; who has Forces enow to oppose him if he should be his Enemy.

But to travel through the Country of the Curds is very pleasant: for if on the one side the ways are bad, and difficult to be travel'd, in other places you have a prospect of several sorts of Trees, as Oaks and Walnuts, and not a Tree which is not embrac'd with a wild Vine. Below the Mountains, in the Level, grows the best Wheat; and Barley in all the Country.

From Betlis, where you pay five Piasters for every Horse-load, to Taduan, where you pay two.

Taduan is a great Town within a Cannon-shot of the Lake of Van, in such a part, where Nature has made a Hav'n, shelter'd from all the Winds; being clos'd on all sides with high Mountains, the entry into which though it seem narrow, is very free. It is able to contain twenty or thirty great Barks; and when it is fair Wea­ther, and that the Wind serves, the Merchants generally Ship off their Goods from thence to Van: from whence it is but four and twenty hours sail, and a very good passage; whereas by Land from Taduan to Van it is eight days journey on Horse-back. Returning back, you may also take Water at Van for Taduan.

From Taduan to Karmoushé.

From Karmoushé to Kellat.

From Kellat to Algiaoux, a small City, where you pay one Piaster for every Load.

[Page 106] From Agiaoux to Spanktiere.

From Spanktiere to Soüer.

From Soüer to Argiche.

From Argiche to Quiarakierpou.

From Quiarakierpou to Perkeri.

From Perkeri to Zuarzazin.

From Zuarzazin to Souserat.

From Souserat to Devan, where two Piasters are gather'd for every Horse-load, or else you must pay at Van.

From Devan to Van, where there is a Duty of two Tomans and four Abassis to be paid for every Horse-load. For though Van be in the Territories of the Grand Signor, yet the Persian Money is better lik'd than his own Coyn.

Van is a great City upon the side of a wide Lake of the same name. There is a good Fortress belongs to it, that is seated upon the top of a high Mountain which stands by it self. There is but one sort of Fish in the Lake, a little bigger than a Pilchard, of which they take great store in the Month of April. For about a League from the Lake there is a great River that is call'd Bendmahi, which de­scending from the Mountains of Armenia, empties it self into the Lake. Now in March when the Snow melts and swells the River, vast numbers of these Fish come down the River into the Lake; which the Fisher-men observing, so stop up the Mouth of the River that the Fish cannot go back; for else they would not stay above forty days; at which time they catch 'em up in wide-mouth'd Baskets at the Mouth of the River, thinking to return; it being lawful for any man to fish. The people drive a great Trade in these Fish, transporting them into Persia and Armenia; for, the Persians and Armenians both, drinking Wine at the end of their Feasts, they then bring this Dish to the Table for a relishing-bit. The people of Van tell a Story, how that there was a certain rich Merchant who farm'd the whole Fishery, paying a good sum of Money for it to the Basha; who thereupon strictly forbad any to fish but the Merchant; whereas before it was free for any man. But when the Fishing-season came, and that the Merchant thought to have caught his Fish, he met with nothing but Serpents. So that after that time the Fishery was never more farm'd. And there seems to be something in it; for the Basha's, who are a sort of people that will lose nothing they can get, would be certain to farm the Fish again and again, were there not some strange reason to hinder it. There are two principal Islands in the Lake of Van; the one call'd Adaketons, where there stand two Covents of the Armenians, Sourphague and Sourp-kara: the other Island is call'd Limadasi, and the name of the Covent is Limquiliasi, all which Armenian Monks live very austerely.

From Van to Darcheck.

From Darcheck to Nuchar; it stands in the Territories of a Bey of Curdistan, being a paltry Village consisting of two or three little Houses. These Bey's are a kind of particular Lords, upon the Frontiers of both the Empires of Turkie and Persia, who care for neither: for they lye so secure among the Mountains, that there is no assaulting them by force. The Curds in general are a brutish sort of people; who though they stile themselves Mahometans, have very few Moullah's to instruct or teach them. They have a particular veneration for black Grey-hounds; so that if any person should be seen to kill one of them, he would be knock'd o'the Head immediately. Neither does any one dare to cut an Onion with a Knife in their presence; but it must be squeez'd between two Stones by him that intends to make use of it; so ridiculously superstitious they are.

The Bey to whom Nuchar belongs has his Toll-gatherers in that place, who exact sixteen Abassi's for every Horse-load, besides a Present which the Caravan-Bashi is oblig'd to present him, which comes sometimes to seven or eight Tomans, some­times more: for otherwise the Bey would be sure to watch the Caravan at some scurvy place, and plunder it to some purpose. As once it happen'd to a Caravan, with which my Nephew went along in the year 1672; though he had the good luck to lose nothing more than one Camel laden with English Cloth, and another with his Provision. The Basha of Van and the Kan of Tauris took the Field with an intention to remedy these disorders: especially the Basha of Van, who perceiving that the Merchants would forsake that Road by reason of the Injuries they dayly [Page 107] receiv'd, was resolv'd to make the Basha restore some part of his Goods which he had taken from the Merchants; and for the future to leave two of his Subjects in Tauris, and two in Van, that should be responsible for what mischief should be done to the Caravan. For otherwise the Merchants like this way best, as being the nearest from Aleppo to Tauris, and where they pay less Duties.

From Nuchar to Kuticlar, is a long Journey through the Mountains, by the side of several Torrents, which are to be cross'd in several places. This bad way brings Fifty i'the Hundred profit to the Bey of Nuchar; for were the Caravan to travel through Plains, or a level Country, one Horse or Camel would carry as much as two or three, and the Merchant would pay Custom for no more. Here therefore the Caravan-Bashi and the Merchants must understand one another, and agree as cun­ningly as they can togethor.

From Kuticlar to Kalvat.

From Kalvat to Kogia.

From Kogia to Darkavin.

From Darkavin to Soliman-Sera: all which four places are very convenient Inns.

From Soliman-Sera to Kours: in that City resides a Bey, who is tributary to the King of Persia. He lives in an ancient Castle about half a League off, where the Caravan pays nine Abassi's for every Horse-load, besides a Present. But that Present consists only in Sugar-loaves, Boxes of Treacle, or Marmaled; for he stands so much upon his Honour, that he scorns to take Money. The Wine of Kours is sweet and tart.

From Kours to Devogli.

From Devogli to Checheme. About half way between these two places you cross a Plain, which upon the South extends it self a League to the Mountains, but upon the North side enlarges it self out of sight. Upon the High-way, on the left hand stands a Rock three hundred Paces in compass, and about fourscore Foot high; round about it were to be seen several Dens, which most certainly had been the Habi­tations of those that fed their Cattel thereabouts. Under the Rock, which is hollow, appears a Fountain of clear cold Water, wherein there was great store of Fish; thousands of which would come up to the top of the Water, when a man threw any Bread into it. The Fish had a great Head, and a large Mustache. I shot a Carbine into the River charg'd with Hail-shot, upon which they all disappear'd, but presently five or six return'd wounded to the top of the Water, which we easily took. The Armenians laught at me for shooting, believing it had been impos­sible to catch them in that manner; but they admir'd when they beheld them again turning up their bellies at the top of the Water. The Turks and some of the Armenians would not eat of them, believing them to be defil'd: but the Armenians that had been in Europe laugh'd at their Superstition, and fell to, when they were drest.

From Checheme to Davashiler.

From Davashiler to Marand; a City where you must pay sixteen Abassi's for a Camel's-load, and eight for a Horses.

From Merand to Sefian.

From Sefian to Tauris. These are the two biggest days journies throughout the Road.

Returning out of Persia this way, we could not get Bread for Money; so that we were forc'd to give the Women some Trifles which they lov'd better. Though the People are Mahometans, yet they will not spare to drink lustily.

CHAP. IV. Another Road from Aleppo to Tauris, through Geziré and other places.

FRom Aleppo to Bir or Beri, where you must cross Euphrates, days 4

From Bir to Ourfa, days 2

From Ourfa to Diarbequir, days 6

From Diarbequir to Geziré, days 4

Geziré is a little City of Mesopotamia, built upon an Island in the River Tigris; which is there to be cross'd over a fair Bridge of Boats. Here the Merchants meet to buy Gall-nuts and Tobacco. The City is under the Jurisdiction of a Bey.

Having past the Tigris, all the Country between that and Tauris is almost equally divided between Hills and Plains; the Hills are cover'd with Oaks that bear Galls, and some Acoms withal. The Plains are planted with Tobacco, which is transported into Turkie, for which they have a very great Trade. One would think the Country were poor, seeing nothing but Galls and Tobacco; but there is no Country in the World where there is more Gold or Silver laid out; and where they are more nice in taking Money that is in the least defective either in weight or goodness of Metal. For Galls being a general Commodity for Dying, and no where to be found so good as there, bring a vast Trade to the Country; wherein there are no Villages, yet it is over-spread with Houses a Musquet-shot one from another; and every Inhabitant has his quarter of his Vineyard by himself, where they dry their Grapes: for they make no Wine.

From Geziré to Amadié, days 2

Amadié is a good City, to which the Natives of a great part of Assyria bring their Tobacco, and Gall-nuts. It is seated upon a high Mountain, to the top whereof you cannot get in less than an hour. Toward the middle of the Rock three or four large Springs fall down from the Cliffs, where the Inhabitants are forc'd to water their Cattel and fill their Borachio's every morning, there being no Water in the City. It is of an indifferent bigness, and in the middle is a large Piazza, where all sorts of Merchants keep their Shops. It is under the Command of a Bey that is able to raise eight or ten thousand Horse, and more Foot than any other of the Beys, by reason his Country is so populous.

From Amadié to Giousmark, days 4

From Giousmark to Alback, days 3

From Alback to Salmastre, days 3

Salmastre is a pleasant City upon the Frontiers of the Assyrians and Medes, and the first on that side in the Territories of the Persian King. The Caravan never lyes there, because it would be above a League out of the way: but when the Caravan is lodg'd, two or three of the principal Merchants with the Caravan-Bashi according to custom go to wait upon the Kan. The Kan is so glad that the Caravan takes that Road, that he presents the Caravan-Bashi and those that go with him, with the Garment of Honour, or the Calaat, the Bonnet, and Girdle; which is the greatest Honour that the King or his Governour can do to Strangers.

From Salamastre to Tauris, days 4

In all thirty-two days journey this way from Aleppo to Tauris. But though this be the shortest cut, and where they pay least Customs, yet the Merchants dare hardly venture for fear of being ill us'd by the Beys.

Teren, whose Capital City the Persians call Cherijar, is a Province between Ma­zandran and the ancient Region of the Persians known at this day by the name of Hierac, to the South-East of Ispahan. 'Tis one of the most temperate Countries, that has nothing in it of the contagious Air of Guilan, where the King goes for the purity of the Air, and for his sport of Hunting; besides, that it produceth ex­cellent Fruits in many places. The Capital City whereof, which some call by the name of the Province, is of a moderate compass, but there is nothing worthy obser­vation in it: only a League from it are to be seen the Ruines of a great City, which [Page 109] had been two Leagues in Circuit. There were abundance of Towers all of burnt Brick, and Pieces of the Wall standing. There were also several Letters in the Stones which were cemented into the Walls; but neither Turks, Persians, nor Ara­bians could understand them. The City is round seated upon a high Hill, at the top whereof stood the Ruines of a Castle, which the Natives say was the Residence of the Kings of Persia.

CHAP. V. The Road from Aleppo to Ispahan through the small Desert, and through Kengavar.

I Will describe this Road as if I were to return from Ispahan to Aleppo. This Road lies through Kengavar, Bagdat, and Anna, where you enter into the Desert, which I call The little Desert, because you get over it in far less time than the great Desert that extends Southwards to Arabia the Happy, and where you may often find Water, all the whole Journey being not far distant from the River Euphrates. A man that is well mounted may ride this way from Ispahan to Aleppo in three and thirty days, as I have done, and perhaps in less, if the Arabian, whom you take for your guide at Bagdat, knows the shortest cut through the Wilder­ness.

The Horse Caravans travelling from Ispahan to Kengavar are fourteen or fifteen days upon the Road; but being well mounted ten or twelve in a Company, you may Ride it in five or six days. The Country through which you travel, is very fertile in Corn and Rice, it produces also excellent Fruits and good Wine, especi­ally about Kengavar, which is a large Town and well peopl'd.

From Kengavar to Bagdat I was ten days upon the Road. The Country is not so fertile but very stony in some parts. And it consists in Plains and small Hills, there being not a Mountain in all the Road.

Now for a man that travels quick, the Road lies thus:

From Ispahan to Consar.

From Consar to Comba.

From Comba to Oranguié.

From Oranguié to Nahoüand.

From Nahoüand to Kengavar.

Fron Kengavar to Sahana.

From Sahana to Polisha, or the Bridge-Royal, being a great Stone Bridge.

From Polisha to Maidacht.

From Maidacht to Erounabad.

From Erounabad to Conaguy.

From Conaguy to Caslisciren.

From Caslisciren to Iengui-Conaguy.

From Iengui-Conaguy to Casered.

From Casered to Charaban.

From Charaban to Bourous.

From Bourous to Bagdat.

There are some, who instead of passing through Kengavar, take Amadan, one of the most considerable Cities of Persia in their way, and so from thence to Toucheré; but the way is longer; and according to the Road which I have set down, you are to leave Amadan to the North upon the right hand.

Between Sahana and Polisha you leave the only high Mountain in all the Road to the North. It is as steep and as straight as a Wall, and as high as you can see; you may observe the Figures of men clad like Priests, with Surplices and Censors in their hands, and yet neither can the Natives tell you, nor any person imagin the meaning of those Sculptures. At the foot of the Rock runs a River, over which there is a Bridge of Stone.

[Page 110] About a days journey beyond the Mountain you meet with a little City, whose situation, the Streams that water it, the good Fruits that grow there, and parti­cularly the excellent Wine which it affords, render a most pleasant Mansion. The Persians believe that Alexander when he return'd from Babylon dy'd in this place, what-ever others have writt'n that he dy'd at Babylon. All the rest of the Country from this City to Bagdat is a Country of Dates, where the people live in little Hutts, made of the Branches of Palm-trees.

From Bagdat to Anna you ride in four days, through a desert Country, though it lye between two Rivers.

Anna is a City of an indifferent bigness, that belongs to an Arabian Emir. For about half a League round about the Town, the Lands are very well manur'd, being full of Gardens and Country-houses. The City for its situation resembles Paris; for it is built upon both sides of the River Euphrates; and in the midst of the River is an Island, where stands a fair Mosquee.

From Anna to Mached-raba is five days riding, and from Mached-raba to Taïba, five days more.

Mached-raba is a kind of a Fortress upon the point of a Hill, at the Foot whereof springs a Fountain like a large Vase, which is very rare in the Deserts. The place is encompass'd with high Walls, defended by certain Towers, and in which are little Hutts where the Inhabitants keep their Cattel, of which there is great store, but more Mares and Horses than Cows.

Taïba is also a fortifi'd place in a level Country, or a high Bank of Earth and Brick bak'd in the Sun. Near to the Gate a Fountain springs out of the Earth, and makes a kind of a Pond. This Road is most frequented by those that travel through the Desert from Aleppo or Damas to Babylon, or from Damas to Diarbequir, by reason of this Fountain.

From Taïba to Aleppo is but three days journey; but these three days are the most dangerous of all the Road for Robbers, in regard that all the Country is inha­bited only by the Bedouïns, or Arabian Shepherds, who make it their business only to plunder and steal.

Now to take the same Road from Aleppo to Ispahan, it lyes thus:

From Aleppo to Taïba, days 3

From Taïba to Mached-raba, days 5

From Mached-raba to Anna, days 5

From Anna to Bagdat, days 4

From Bagdat to Bourous, days 1

From Bourous to Charaban, days 1

From Charaban to Casered, days 1

From Casered to Conaguy, days 1

From Conaguy to Cassiscerin, days 1

From Cassiscerin to another Conaguy, days 1

From Conaguy to Erounabad, days 1

From Erounabad to Maidacht, days 1

From Maidacht to Sahana, days 1

From Sahana to Kengavar, days 1

From Kengavar to Nahoüand, days 1

From Nahoüand to Oranguie, days 1

From Oranguie to Comba, days 1

From Comba to Consar, days 1

From Consar to Ispahan, days 1

So that whether you travel from Aleppo to Ispahan, or from Ispahan to Aleppo, you may easily ride it in thirty days.

From whence I make this Observation, That a man making it but two days more from Alexandretta, and finding a Ship ready there to set Sail for Marseilles, with a fair Wind he may travel from Ispahan to Paris in two months.

Another time, having an occasion to go from Aleppo to Kengavar, and so to Bagdat; and from thence, so through the Desert; at Bagdat I met with a Spaniard that was travelling the same way, with whom I luckily met to bear half the Charges of the Guide; which as soon as we had hir'd for sixty Crowns, we set forward from [Page 111] Bagdat; the Spaniard, and I, and our Arabian, who was afoot, walk'd about Pistol Shot before our Horses. From thence to Anna we met with nothing remarkable, but only that we saw a Lyon and a Lyoness in the Act of Generation: Whereupon our Guide believing we had been afraid, told us, that he had met them oft'n, but that he never found them do any harm.

The Spaniard according to the humour of his Nation, was very reserv'd, and contenting himself with an Onion, or some such small matter at meals, never made much of his guide; whereas I was mightily in his favour, in regard there was never a day pass'd wherein he did not receive of me some good business or other. We were not above a Musquet Shot from Anna when we met with a comely old man, who came up to me, and taking my Horse by the Bridle; Friend, said he, come and wash thy feet and eat Bread at my House. Thou art a Stranger, and since I have met thee upon the Road, never refuse me the favour which I desire of thee. The Invitation of the old man was so like the custom of the people in ancient times, of which we read so many Examples in Scripture, that we could not choose but go along with him to his House, where he Feasted us in the best manner he could, giving us over and above Barly for our Horses; and for us he kill'd a Lamb and some Hens. He was an Inhabitant of Anna, and liv'd by the River, which we were oblig'd to cross to wait upon the Governour for our Passports, for which we paid two Piasters apiece. We staid at a House near the Gate of the City to buy Provisions for our selves and our Horses; where the woman of the House having a lovely sprightly Child of nine years of age, I was so taken with her humour, that I gave her two Handkerchiefs of Painted Calicut, which the Child shewing her Mother, all we could do could not make her take any Money for the Provisions we had agreed for.

Five hundred paces from the Gate of the City, we met a young man of a good Family, for he was attended by two Servants, and rode upon an Ass, the hinder part of which was Painted red. He accosted me in particular, and after some Compliments that pass'd, Is it possible, said he, that I should meet a Stranger, and have nothing to present him withall? He would fain have carry'd us to a House in the Country whether he was going; but seeing we were resolv'd to keep our way, he would needs give me his Pipe, notwithstanding all the excuses I could make, and though I told him that I never took any Tobacco; so that I was constrain'd to accept of it.

About three Leagues from Anna, we were going to eat among the Ruines of certain Houses, and had thought to have lain there 'till midnight, when we perciv'd two Arabians sent by the Emir, to tell us that he had some Letters which he would put into our own hands to the Basha of Aleppo, to which purpose he had order to bring us back. There was no refusing, so that at our coming into the City the next day we saw the Emir going to the Mosquée, mounted upon a stately Horse, and attended by a great number of people afoot, with every one a great Poniard stuck in their Girdles. As soon as we saw him we alighted, and standing up by the Houses, we saluted him as he pass'd by. Seeing our Guide, and threatning to rip up his Belly; Ye Dog, said he, I will give ye your reward, and teach ye to carry Strangers away before I see them. Carry them, said he, to the Governours House 'till I return from the Mosquée. Returning from the Mosquée, and being seated in a spacious Hall, he sent for us and our Guide, whom he threatn'd again for carrying us out of the Town without giving him notice. But the Governour pleaded his excuse, and appeas'd the Emir. After that he sent for Coffee for us, and then caus'd us to open the Budget that we carry'd behind our Horses, to see whether there were any thing that pleas'd him or no. In my Budget were two pieces of Calicut exquisitely painted, for two Coverlets of a Bed; two pieces of Handkerchief of Calicut; two Persian Standishes beautify'd with Japon Varnish; two Damascene Blades, one inlaid with Gold, the other with Silver. All which he lik'd, and made me give him. In the Spaniards Budget he found nothing but a few old Clothes: But afterwards being known to have had some Diamonds about him, the French Consul at Aleppo sentenc'd him to pay me half the charges of what I gave the Emir.

The Prince satisfi'd with what he had tak'n, gave order that we should be fur­nish'd with all necessary Provisions for our selves and our Horses: but being provided [Page 112] before, we only took three or four handfuls of excellent Dates, to shew that we did not slight his kindness.

Between Anna and Mached-raba is the Guide to take special care so to order his Stages, as to come every morning to the Wells by break of day, for fear of meeting the Arabs, that come to fetch Water there by that time the Sun is up, who are apt enough to be injurious to Travellers.

At Mached-raba I saw one of the most beautiful Virgins that ever I beheld in my life. For I had given a Piaster to an Arab to get me some Bread, and going to see whether it were bak'd, I found the Virgin putting it into the Oven, who being alone, made me a sign to retire. There I also saw a Colt of that wonderful shape, that the Basha of Damas had offer'd three thousand Crowns for it.

Coming to Taïba, we did not go into the Town, but lay without under the Walls. Only our Arab went in and brought us chopt Straw for our Camels. The Governour of the Town came along with him, and demauded twenty Piasters of every one, for certain Duties which he pretended payable to him. We knew there were but four due, and refus'd to pay any more; but the Arab having a mind to put a trick upon the Spaniard, gave me a wink, intimating to me that I should not trouble my self: Thereupon the Governour incens'd goes back to the Town, and by and by returns with an Iron Chain; and had certainly carry'd the Spaniard fetter'd to the Fort, had he not laid down the twenty Piasters. For my part, I was discharg'd for my four Piasters, according to custom.

Drawing near to Aleppo, the first Houses that we came at bordering upon the Desert, were the Houses of the Arabs and Bedoüins; the second of which being the Habitation of a Friend of our Guide's, I deliver'd my Horse to the Guide, to whom I had sold it before at his own earnest request; for I was resolv'd to go a-foot to Aleppo: and therefore that I might save the Custom of a parcel of Turquoises that I had about me, I put them in the Pouches which I carry'd behind my Horse, and threw the Pouches into a little Chest, as if they had been things of no consequence; and desir'd the Man of the House to keep them a day or two. The Arab told me, that were it all Gold it should be safe; and indeed when I sent for them within a day or two after, I found nothing missing.

When I came to Aleppo, the English Consul ask'd me what news from Ispahan: I made answer, that he must of necessity know better than I, in regard the English President there had sent away an Express to him while I was there; and that he went away with two Capuchins and an Arabian Guide. Thereupon the Consul mis­trusting some mischief was befal'n them, requested the Basha to lend him some of his Sokliers; who readily granted him eight Men, part Arabians, part Bedoüins. These the Consul order'd to disperse themselves upon several Roads in the Wilderness, to see if they could meet with any tidings upon the Way. In a short time two of them return'd with two little Pouches, in one of which was the Packet of Letters. They reported also, that in a by-place between Taïba and Mached-raba they saw the Bodies of four dead Men lying upon the Sand. One of them which was in black Clothes, being hack'd and mangled in a most miserable manner; but the Bodies of the other three were entire, though run through in several places. Some time after the persons themselves that did the fact told both at Diarbequir and Damas, how it came to pass. For certain Merchants of Damas going to Diarbequir, perceiv'd four Men early in the morning at certain Wells where they were to stop; whereupon they sent two of their Company before to know who they were. But the Austin-Frier having a little parcel of Diamonds about him, and believing them to be Thieves, inconsiderately let fly his Gun and kill'd one of them immediately upon the place: the Merchants seeing one of their companions dead, fell all at once upon the other three, cut the Austin-Frier to pieces, and slew the rest; and so without rifling them pursu'd their Journey.

From Aleppo I went to Alexandretta, and there embarqu'd in a Vessel of Mar­seilles, with a favourable Wind, 'till we came to make the Coast of Candy, where we were becalm'd for two days. One morning by break of day we discover'd a Pickaroon, whereupon seeing we could not avoid being fetch'd up by him, we made ready. He made two or three shot at us, which did us no other harm but only touch'd the Beak-head of the Ship. Our Gunner made a shot at him, which brought down his Top-gallant; a second went through and through the great Cabin, [Page 113] and caus'd a great disorder in his Ship, as far as we could discern with our Prospective-Glasses. But when the Wind began to blow fresh, the Pirate, who had enough of us, and had discover'd another Vessel which perhaps he thought better prize, made all the Sail he could from us toward the other Vessel. Thereupon we pursu'd our Voyage with a fair Gale, and came to Malta.

From Malta we departed seven or eight in company, in two of the Pope's Gallies, staying three days at Syracuse, and one at Messina; where our Company increasing, we hir'd a Feluck for Naples. But as we were coasting by the Shoar to the Port of Naples, so terrible a Tempest surpriz'd us near to Paolo, that we were forc'd to put in there upon Palm-Sunday. The next day we went to see the Covent of St. Francis of Paolo; the way to it lying between a high Mountain on the right, and a Precipice on the left hand. This Mountain leans so, that it seems to be tumbling down; and there is a good height upon the Rock the seeming print of a Hand, which as the report goes, was the print of St. Francis's Hand, who sustain'd it a whole day, and kept it from falling. From Paolo we went to Naples, were we arriv'd upon Easter-eve; and as we enter'd into the City, the great Guns went off round the City, in honour of the Resurrection. At Rome we all separated, according as our Business led us.

CHAP. VI. Another Road from Constantinople to Ispahan, by the Euxin or Black Sea; with some Remarks upon the principal Cities thereabouts.

THere are three Roads yet remaining, leading out of Europe into Persia or the Indies. That of Constantinople, all along the Coasts of the Black Sea; that of Warsovia, crossing the same Sea at Trebisond; and that of Mosco, down the Volga, which has been amply describ'd by Olearius, Secretary to the Embassy of the Duke of Holstein. In this and the next Chapter I shall describe the Way from Constantinople, all along the Black Sea, and that from Warsovia; not knowing any person that has hitherto mention'd any thing upon this subject. And first of all I will give a short Description of the principal Places that lye upon that Sea, as well upon the side of Europe as of Asia, with the just distances of one Place from another.

The principal Cities upon the Black Sea, on the Coast of Europe.

From Constantinople to Varna they count it two hundred Miles, four of which make an Alman League; miles 200

From Varna to Balshinké, miles 36

From Belshinké to Bengali, miles 70

From Bengali to Constance, miles 60

From Constance to Queli, miles 25

Near to this City of Queli the great Arm of Danow throws it self into the Black Sea. Here is the grand Fishery for Sturgeon.

From Queli to Aquerman, miles 50

The City of Aquerman belongs to a Kan of the lesser Tartary; but it is not the place of his residence, for he keeps his Court at Basha-Serrail, twenty-five miles up in the Land.

From Aquerman to Kefet or Kaffa, miles 350

This is a great City, and a place of great Trade, wherein there are above a thousand Families of the Armenians, and about five hundred Greeks. They have every one their Bishop, and several Churches. St. Peter's is the biggest, very large and very beautiful; but it falls to decay, because the Christians have not Wealth [Page 114] enough to repair it. Every Christian aboue fifteen years of age, pays a Piaster and a half tribute to the Grand Signor, who is Lord of the City; and he sends a Bashae that lives in the ancient City call'd Frink-Hessar. However the Kan of the Lesser Tartary extends his Jurisdiction as far as the Gates of Kaffa.

From Kaffa to Assaque, miles 70

Assaque is the last City in Europe, belonging also to the Grand Signor. By it runs a great River of the same name, the other side being in the Territories of the Duke of Muscovy. Down this River come the Cossacks that do so much mis­chief to the Turks. For sometimes they come with threescore or fourscore Gelia's which are a kind of Brigantines, the bigger sort of which carry a hundred and fifty men, the less a hundred. Sometimes they divide themselves into two parts, one of which makes Havock toward Constantinople, the other Ravages the Coast of Asia, as far as Trebizond.

The Coast of Europe bord'ring upon the Black Sea is 861 miles in length.

The chief Cities upon the Black Sea on the Coast of Asia, which is 1170 miles in length.

From Constantinople to Neapoli, miles 250

In this City are made the greatest part of the Galleys and Vessels that belong to the Grand Signor.

From Neapoli to Sinabe, miles 250

From Sinabe to Ouma, miles 240

From Ouma to Kerason, miles 150

From Kerason to Trebisond, miles 80

From Trebisond to Rise, miles 100

From Rise to Guni, miles 100

The City of Guni belongs half to the Grand Signor, and half to the King of Mengrelia, with whom he keeps a good Correspondence, because the greatest part of the Steel and Iron that is spent in Turkie comes out of Mengrelia through the Black Sea.

The only good Ports upon the Black Sea from Constantinople to Mengrelia, are,

Quitros, Sinabe, or Sinope, Onnye, Samsom, Trebisond, Gommé.

The Haven of Quitros is very deep, and the Vessels lie shelter'd from the winds, but the entrance into it is very bad, which only the Pilots of the place, or they who have often accustom'd themselves to that Trade can only find out. It seems that anciently there had been most stately Buildings round about the Port; and several noble Pillars are to be seen all along the shore, not to speak of those which have been Transported to Constantinople. Near the City toward the South stands a high Mountain, whence there flows good store of excellent Water, which at the bottom gathers into one Fountain.

To go from Constantinople for Persia by Sea, you must embark at Constantinople for Trebisond, and many times for Rise or Guni, which are more to the North. They that Land at Trebisond go directly to Erzerom, which is not above five days Journey off, and from Erzerom to Erivan or Tunis. But there are few that will venture upon this Sea where there is no good Anchorage; besides that it is subject to prodigious Tempests, from which there are very few good Ports to defend them; which is the reason it is call'd Cara-denguis, or the Black Sea: The Eastern people giving to all things, mischievous and dangerous, the Epithet of Black.

They that are Bound for Rise or Guni, go to Testis the Capital City of Giorgia, and thence to Erivan, for though the way be bad, yet it is far better and smoother than the Road to Tauris.

The principal places from Teflis to Erivan are these, together with their re­spective distances.

From Teflis to Soganlouk, leagues 3

From Soganlouk to Senouk-kupri, leagues 7

From Senouk-kupri to Guilkac, leagues 7

From Guilkac to Daksou, leagues 6

[Page 115] From Dakson to Achikent, leagues 6

From Achikent to Dillou, leagues 6

From Dillou to Yazegi, leagues 6

From Yazegi to Bicheni, leagues 4

From Bicheni to Erivan, leagues 2

From Erivan you keep the ordinary Road to Tauris.

CHAP. VII. The Road from Warsow to Ispahan, over the Black Sea, and from Ispahan to Mosco; with the Names of the principal Cities and Islands of Turky according to the vulgar pronunciation, and as they are call'd in the Language of the Turks.

FRom Warsow upon the left hand of the Vistula, the ordinary residence of the Kings of Poland, to Lublin, days 6

From Lublin to Iluove, days 5

There all the Bales are open'd, and the Customers take Five in the Hun­dred for their Merchandize.

From Iluove to Jaslovieer, days 12

This is the last City of Poland toward Moldavia, where if you sell any quantity of Goods, you must pay Five per Cent.

From Jaslovieer to Yashé, days 8

This is the Capital City of Moldavia, and is the Residence of the Vaywood which the Grand Signor sends to govern in the Country. There they open all the Bales, and there is a Roll of what every Merchant ought to pay, which may amounts to Five per Cent.

From Yashé to Ourshaye, days 3

This is the last City of Moldavia, where there is no Custom to be paid.

From Ourshaye to Akerman, days 4

Here they never open the Bales, but they take Four in the Hundred.

From Akerman to Ozou, days 3

Here they never open the Bales, but the Custom amounts to Two per Cent.

From Ozou to Precop, days 5

Neither do they here open the Bales, but trust to the Merchant's word, and the Customs amount to Two and a half per Cent.

From Precop to Kaffa, days 5

Nor are the Bales open'd here, but the Custom comes to Three per Cent.

Thus from Warsow to Kaffa the Journey takes up one and fifty days, in the Wagon, which is the manner of Carriage in those Countries. All the Customs amount to Eighteen and a half per Cent. to which you must add the Carriage, and Passage by Sea to Trebizond; where you pay three Piasters for every Mules-load, and four for every Camels-load.