CHAP. I. Of the Roads from France to the hither parts of Aſia, and the Places from whence they uſually ſet out for Iſpahan.

A Man cannot travel in Aſia, as they do in Europe; nor at the ſame Hours, nor with the ſame eaſe. There are no weekly Coaches or Wagons from Town to Town; beſides, that the Soil of the Countries is of ſeveral natures. In Aſia you ſhall meet with ſeveral Regions untill'd and unpeopl'd, either through the badneſs of the Climate and Soil, or the ſloth of the Inhabitants, who rather chooſe to live miſerably, than to work. There are vaſt Deſerts to croſs, and very dangerous, both for want of Water, and the Robberies that the Arabs daily commit therein. There are no certain Stages, or Inns to entertain Travellers. The beſt Inns, eſpecially in Turkie, are the Tents which you carry along with you, and your Hoſts are your Servants, that get ready thoſe Victuals which you have bought in good Towns. You ſet up your Tent in the open Field, or in any Town where there is no Inn: and a good ſhift too in temperate weather, when the Sun is not too hot, or that it does not rain. In the Carvanſera's or Inns which are more frequent in Perſia than in Turkie, there are perſons that furniſh you with Proviſions, and the firſt come are beſt ſerved. As for Turkie it is full of Thieves, that keep in Troops together, and way-lay the Merchants upon the Roads, and if they be not very well guarded will certainly rob them: nay many times murder them. A miſchief prevented in Perſia by the well order'd convenience which is provided for Travellers. To avoid theſe dangers and inconveniences, you are oblig'd to ſtay for the Caravans, that go for Perſia or the Indies, which never ſet out but at certain times, and from certain places.

Theſe Caravans ſet out from Conſtantinople, Smyrna, and Aleppo. And it is from one of theſe Cities that a Traveller muſt ſet out, that intends for Perſia, whether he keeps company with the Caravan, or will hazard himſelf alone with a Guide, as once I did.

I will begin with Conſtantinople, from whence you may go either by Land or Sea: and either by Land or Sea there are two ways to go. The firſt of theſe by Land is that which I took with Monſieur Chapes and Monſieur St. Liebau, By the way take notice, that Vienna is the half-way near-upon between Paris and Conſtantinople. The ſecond Road is leſs frequented, but is leſs inconvenient and leſs dangerous: for there are need of the Emperour's Paſports, which he does not grant very freely: beſides that here is no fear of the Pirates of Tunis or Argier, as when you embarque from Marſeilles or Ligorn. If you intend this way, you muſt go to Venice; from Venice to Ancona, from whence ſeveral Barques are bound every Week for Raguſa. From Raguſa you ſail along by the Shore to Durazzo a Sea▪Port of Albania; from whence you travel the reſt of the way by Land. From Durazzo to Albanopolis, diſtant three days journey, from thence to Moneſtier, juſt as far; from Moneſtier you may either take the left hand through Sophia, and Philippopolis, or the right through Inguiſcher, three days journey from Moneſtier, and ten from Adrianople, from whence in five days you reach Conſtantinople through Selivrea.

This laſt way is part by Sea and part by Land: but there are two other ways altogether by Land, above and below Italy, according to the diſtinction which Antiquity made of the two Seas that almoſt encompaſs it. You may embark at Venice, and ſayling along the Gulf which is free from Pirates, you muſt double the Cape of Matapan, the moſt Southern Point of all Europe, to enter into the Archipelago. The other way is from Marſeilles or Ligorn, from whence ſeveral Veſſels are bound for the Eaſt. The ſafeſt way is to go along with the Engliſh or Holland Fleets, that uſually arrive at Ligorn either in the Spring or in Autumn, and part juſt againſt the Morea, to the ſeveral parts whither they are bound. As the Wind ſerves, thoſe Fleets ſometimes make Sail between the Iſland of Elba and Italy, and by the Tower of Meſſina▪ ſometimes below Sicily and Sardigna, within ſight of Malta. Thus you muſt come within ſight of Candy, whether you are bound for Conſtantinople, Smyrna, or Alexandretta, from whence it is but three days journey to Aleppo: from one of which three Cities, you muſt neceſſarily begin your journey, if you intend for Perſia.

Some take Egypt in their way, uſing through Alexandria, Cairo, and Damiata, whence ſeveral Veſſels are bound for Joppa; or St. John's of Aera, which is not far off: from thence to Jeruſalem or Damaſcus, and from thence to Bagdat or Babylon.

If you will venture in a ſingle Veſſel not ſtaying for the Fleets, you may hire a Veſſel from Ligorn to Naples, from Naples to Meſſina, keeping along by the Shore, and lying a ſhore every night. I took this way, and went from Meſſina to Syracuſe, where are to be ſeen the moſt remarkable footſteps of Antiquity. 'Tis like a City under ground, and near to it is a great Rock which has been made hollow, at the bottom whereof if a man whiſper, they that are at the top may hear him. They call this Rock Dionyſius the Tyrant's Ear: for being at the top, he eaſily underſtood what the People ſaid of him below; and diſcovered the Counſels of the chief Men of Syracuſe, whom he kept priſoners there. Syraecuſe has nothing of that ſplendour which renown'd it when it was the Miſtreſs of all Sicily, and when Greece, jealous of her power, made War upon her. But the Soil is very plentiful, and the Gallies of Malta very often take in their Proviſions there. Near the City is a fair Convent of Capuchin Friers, going out of which, you may walk for half an hour between two very high Rocks, where there are ſeveral little Cells with every one a Garden, where the Friers ſometimes retire, and it is certainly one of the moſt pleaſing Solitudes in the World.

From Syracuſe I went to Malta, where you muſt wait for ſome Ship that is bound for the Eaſt.

CHAP. II. Of the Road from Conſtantinople to Iſpahan, which the Author kept in his firſt Travels into Perſia.

IT is ſeldom that any Caravans go from Conſtantinople into Perſia; but from Burſa they go every two Months: Burſa is the Capital City of Bithynia, not above three days journey from Conſtantinople, or a little more. Theſe two Roads meet at Chabangi, where you may be from Burſa in two Days: and ſo I will only ſpeak of the Roads from Conſtantinople to Iſpahan. This Journey is to be undertaken either with the Caravan of Camels, or elſe ten or twelve Men in a Company, well mounted and well arm'd.

From Conſtantinople you croſs over to Scutari, upon the Coaſt of Aſia.

Setting out from Scutari, the firſt days journey is very pleaſant, over Fields gayly painted with Flowers in their ſeaſon. At firſt for ſome time together, one both ſides the way, you ſee nothing but fair Sepulchers with their Pyramids, and you may eaſily diſcern the Womens Monuments from the Mens. For there is a Turbant upon the Pyramid of the Mens Sepulcher, but the Pyramids of the Womens Monuments are trimm'd with the Head-Attire which is worn by the Women of the Country. That Evening you muſt lye at Cartali, a Village of Bithynia, the next Day at Gebiſa, antiently Lybiſſa, famous for the Tomb of Hannibal. In that place there are two good Inns, and two fair Fountains.

The third day you come to Iſnich, which is thought to be the ancient Nicea; one part of the City is built upon the deſcent of a Hill, the other part upon a Plain that reaches to the Sea, and makes the Golf of Iſnich. The Haven conſiſts of two Moles made of Free-ſtone, and three great Encloſures encompaſs'd with Walls, which ſerve inſtead of ſo many Arſenals, wherein there are Store houſes full of large Timber, for building Houſes and Galleys. The Country round about being an excellent place for Hunting, and the Soil bearing rare Fruits, and rich in Wine, caus'd Sultan Amuratt to build a Seraglio in the higheſt part of the Town, from whence there is a proſpect at the ſame time both over the Sea and the Country. The Jews inhabit the greateſt part of the Town, dealing chiefly in Timber and Co •• . When the Wind ferves, you may go from Conſtantinople to Iſnich in ſeven or eight Hours, there being no danger in the paſſage.

The fourth Day you ſtay at Chabangi, a ſmall Town built upon the ſide of a Lake call'd Chaban Gigul, where there are two Inns. From the beginning of the Lake for two Leagues together you travel partly over Mountains, partly by the Lakeſide, where in ſome places the Horſe will be up to the Belly. This Lake is not above ten Leagues in compaſs; but it yields great ſtore of large Fiſh, inſomuch that I have bought a Pike two Foot and a half long for three Sous. Many Emperours have had a deſign to make a Cutt out of this Lake into the Sea, for the more eaſie tranſporting to Conſtantinople the Timber which grows upon the Mountains near the Lake. And if the Grand Viſier, who by a Miracle dy'd in his Bed, and left his Son ſucceſſor to his Employment, had liv'd ſome Years longer, he had no queſtion added this to the reſt of thoſe famous Wotks that eterniz'd his Memory.

Departing from Chabangi, you come to lye at Night upon the Bank of a River call'd Zacarat, which runs Northward and falls into the Black Sea. It is a River plentiful in Fiſh, and you croſs over it with a wooden Bridge. There is neither Town, nor Inn in that place; but a League from the River is a great Town call'd Ada, the chiefeſt part of the Inhabitants whereof are Armemians. Thither we ſent for excellent good Wine, and other neceſſary refreſhments.

From that River to Cancoli, where you lye the next Night, and have your choice of four Inns; you travel all the day in the Merſhes, over wooden Bridges and Cauſeys.

Tuskebaſar is the next place, a ſmall Village with two Inns. From thence to Cargueſlar, a great Town, with one Inn, built upon a River, where there is great ſtore of Fiſh taken, which the Inhabitants call Bourma-balouky, that is to ſay, the Fiſh with the long Noſe: It is ſpeckl'd like a Trout; but of a better taſt, and more eſteem'd. Polia or Polis, is a City ſeated at the foot of ſeveral Mountains, the Inhabitants whereof are for the moſt part Greeks. Theſe Mountains are very high, and extend themſelves along the Road for Two days journey. They are full of ſeveral ſorts of Trees, which are ſtreight and tall like Firr-Trees: and divided by ſo many Torrents, which it would be hard to paſs over, where it not for the Bridges that the Grand Viſier Kuprigli caus'd to be built. In regard the ſoil of theſe Mountains is very fat, there would be no drawing for the Horſes after great Rains or the melting of the Snow, had not the ſame Viſier caus'd all the Ways to be Pav'd and Pitch'd, even as far as Conſtantinople. A Work of great charge, in regard there is not a Flint in any part of the • ountain, and for that the Stone is to fetch'd a great way off. There are abundance of Pigeons as big as Hens, and of an excellent taſt, which not only pleas'd our Appetites, but afforded us very good Paſtime to ſhoot them. Between the City and the Mountain, there is a Plain about two Leagues in length; near to which, there glides a River that waters it, and very much contributes to its fertility. It is an excellent Soil, and produces all things neceſſary for humane Life. Upon each ſide of the way I counded above Twenty Churchyards▪ For it is the cuſtom of the Turks to bury near the Highway, believing that the Travellers pray for the Souls of the deceas'd. Upon every Tomb, there is to be ſeen a Marble Pillar, half fix'd in the Earth: of which Pillars there are ſo great a number, of various Colours, that it is from thence conjectur'd, that there were a very great number of Chriſtian Churches in Polia, and the parts thereabouts. They aſſur'd me likewiſe, that there was a vaſt quantity of theſe Pillars in the Villages up and down in the Mountains which the Turks every day pull down and ſet up their Tombs.

Bendourlour is a Village in the Mountains where there is one Inn.

Gerradar is beyond the Mountains, where there are two Inns.

Cargeſlar has two Inns, and lyes in a good Country.

Caragaler is a Town where there are two Inns.

Coſizar is a Village with one Inn.

Tocia is a great City ſituated upon riſing Hills, that joyn to very high Mountains. Upon the Winter Weſt, there appears a fair Champain Country, water'd by a Stream that falls into a River of a greater bigneſs, call'd Guſelarmac. Upon the higheſt of the ſmaller Hills toward the Eaſt, there is a Forteſs, where a Baſha reſides; and in the Town is one of the faireſt Inns upon the Road. The greateſt part of the Inhabitants are Chriſtian Greeks, who have the advantage to drink excellent Wine, with which the Country furniſhes them in abundanee.

Agiſenſalou ſtands upon a River, and there is an Inn and a fair Moſquee in it.

Ozeman is a little City ſeated at the foot of a Hill, upon which there ſtands a ſtrong Caſtle, and below two very commodious Inns. The River Guſelarmac, broad and deep, waſhes the South-ſide of the City, which you croſs over one of the faireſt Bridges that ever was ſeen. It conſiſts of Fifteen Arches, all of Freeſtone, and is a work that ſhews the Grandeur of the Undertaker. Somewhat at a diſtance from the Bridge ſtands Six Corn-Mills all together, with little wooden Bridges to go from one to another. This River falls into the Euxin Sea, about eight days journey from Ozeman.

Azilar is a great Town, where there are two Inns.

Delekiras is a great Village, with one Inn.

Theſe Four days Journeys are very dangerous, by reaſon that the Ways are narrow, and commodious for Robbers. They are very numerous in this Country; and therefore underſtanding that we were way-laid, we ſent and deſir'd a Convoy of the Baſha, who lent us fifty Horſemen.

Amaſia is a great City, built upon an aſcent in the hollow of a Mountain. It has no proſpect, but only from the South over a fair Plain. The River that runs by it comes from Tocat, and throws it ſelf into the Black-Sea, four days journey from Amaſia. You croſs it over a wooden Bridge, ſo narrow that not above three perſons can go a-breſt. To bring freſh Water to the City, they have cut a League into Rocks as hard as Marble, which was a prodigious Labour. On the Weſt-ſide, upon a high Mountain, ſtands a Fortreſs, where they can come by no other Water than what they preſerve in Ciſterns when it rains. In the middle of the Mountain is a fair Spring, and round about it are ſeveral Chambers cut out of the Rock, where the Dervichs made their abode. There are but two Inns, and thoſe very bad ones, in Amaſia. But the ſoil is good, and bears the beſt Wine and Fruits in all Natolia.

Ainabachar, is the name of an Inn, diſtant a quarter of a League from a great Town where they fetch their Proviſions.

Turcall is a great Town near to a Mountain, upon which there ſtands a Caſtle. The River that comes from Tocat waſhes the Houſes, and we caught excellent Fiſh in it. In that place is another of the faireſt Inns upon the Road.

From Turcall you may travel in one day to Tocat, where the Road from Smyrna to Iſpahan meets.

Tocat is a good fair City built at the foot of a very high Mountain, ſpreading it ſelf round about a great Rock that ſtands almoſt in the midſt of the Town, upon the top whereof a high Caſtle commands the neighbouring parts, with a good Garriſon in it. It is very ancient, and the remainder of three others that ſtood there in former times. The City is very well inhabited with Turks, who are the Lord Controllers, Armenians, Greeks, and Jews. The Streets are very narrow, but the Houſes are indifferent well built; and and among ſeveral Moſquees, there is one very magnificient, which ſeems to be newly rear'd. There was alſo a very fair Inn going up, which when I laſt travell'd that way, was not quite finiſh'd. There is one thing more particular and more commodious at Tocat, which is not to be found in any Inns upon the Road, That round about all the Caravanſera's in the Town, there are • odgings which they let out to Merchants, that deſire to be by themſelves out of the noiſe and hurry of the Caravans, whiles they ſtay at Tocat. Beſides that, in thoſe private Lodgings you have your liberty to drink Wine, and provide for the reſt of your Journey; which is not ſo eaſily done in the publick Inns, where the Turks will have an eye upon the Merchants, to draw Money out of their pockets. The Chriſtians have twelve Churches at Tocat, and there reſides an Archbiſhop, that has under him ſeven Suffragans. There are alſo two Monaſteries for Men, and two for Women; and for fourteen or fifteen Leagues round Tocat, the Country is all inhabited by Armenian Chriſtians, but very few Greeks being intermix'd among them. The greateſt part of theſe Chriſtians are Tradeſmen, and for the moſt part Smiths. A fair River runs about half a quarter of a League from the City, which riſes near to Erzerom, and is croſs'd at Tocat over a very beautiful ſtone Bridge. Upon the North ſide of the City, it waters a Plain three or four days Journey in extent, and two or three Leagues broad. It is very fertil, and repleniſh'd with fair Villages very well peopl'd. A man may live very cheap at Tocat: the Wine is moſt excellent, and all ſort of rare Fruit very plentiful. It is the only place in all Aſia where plenty of Saffron grows, which is the beſt Commodity you can carry to the Indies, where a Pound, as the Years fall out, is worth thirteen or fourteen Every Frank being 2 s. ſterling.Franks, though the Wax that preſerves it, be as much in weight as the Saffron. This City, with the Lands belonging to it, uſually is the Dowager Sultaneſſes Joynture. There is only an Aga and a Cady, that command there in the behalf of the Grand Signor: for the Baſha, from whom they receive their Orders, lives at Sivas, which is the ancient Sebaſtia, and a very great City, ſome three days journey from Tocat. In ſhort, Tocat is one of the moſt remarkable Thoroughfares in the Eaſt, where are continually lodg'd the Caravans from Perſia, Diarbequer, Bagdat, Conſtantinople, Smyrna, Synopus, and other places; and here the Caravans turn off, as they are variouſly bound. They that are for Conſtantinople, take to the Winter Weſt upon the right hand; they that are for Smyrna, incline to the Summer Weſt, upon the left hand. When you ſet out either way out of Tocat, there is a Toll-gatherer that counts all the Camels and Horſes that paſs by, and exacts for every Camel a quarter of a Rixdollar, and for every Horſe half as much. As for the Horſes or Camels that carry the Paſſengers or their Proviſions, they pay nothing. This con ••• ual concourſe of the Caravans trolls the Money about at Tocat, and makes it one of the moſt conſiderable Cities of Turkie.

Setting out of Tocat to go to Erzerom, you diſcover a little Village ſo ſituated under a Hill, as if the Mountain lay atop of it; and between that Mountain and the River, the Road is very narrow where the Caravan is to paſs. In this Road it was, that we met the Grand Viſier returning from Hunting, with a Train of four hundred men: ſo ſoon as he perceiv'd us, he fil'd off all his men to give us liberty to paſs by. But among all the Company, there was not above four Franks upon which he particularly caſt his Eye; which made him ſend for the Caravan Bacchi to know who we were. The Caravan Bacchi, to avoid the ill Conſequences of jealouſie which the Viſier might have of the Franks, at a time when the Grand Viſier made War in Perſia, told him we were Jews; at which the Viſier, ſhaking his Head, reply'd only that we did not look like ſuch, and happy it was for us that he took reply'd only that we did not look like ſuch, and happy it was for us that he took no farther notice. For it was twenty to one, but that upon better conſideration he might have ſent after us to have ſtopt us. But when he came home to his Lodging he found a Capigi ſtaying for him, with Orders from the Grand Signor to take off his Head, which were preſently executed. For Amurath being troubl'd for the loſs of his Army, had no way but to revenge himſelf upon the perſon that had the command of it.

Notwithſtanding that the Caravans reſt at Tocat, yet they ſtay likewiſe two or three days at Charkliqueu, which is not above two Leagues diſtant from it; for Charkliqueu is a great Town in a lovely Country, between two fertil Hills, where there grows excellent Wine. It is for the moſt part inhabited by Chriſtians, who are generally Tanners. The fine blew Goat leather Skins being dreſt in Tocat, and the Parts thereabout. It is thought the Water contributes very much to their Art. For Tocat is as famous for the blew Goats▪ leather Skins, as Diarbequir and Bagdat are for the red, Mouſſul or the ancient Ninivch for the yellow, and Ourfa for the black. About two thouſand Paces from this Town, in the midſt of a Plain riſes a vaſt Rock, upon the North-ſide whereof you aſcend about nine or ten ſteps into a Chamber with a Bed, a Table, and a Cupboard in it, all hewn out of the Rock. Upon the Weſt ſide you aſcend other five or ſix ſteps that lead to a little Gallery, about five or ſix Foot long, and three broad, all hewn out of the Rock, though it be of an extroardinary hardneſs. The Chriſtians affirm that St. Chryſoſtom made this Rock his retiring-place during his Exilement, and that he had no other Bed or Bolſter than the Rock it ſelf, in a place where they ſhew you the print of a Man's Body. Hence it is, that the Caravans, conſiſting for the moſt part of Chriſtian Merchants, ſtay at Charkliqueu, to pay their Devotions to this Rock, where the Biſhop of the place, attended by ſome Prieſts, with every one a Taper in their Hands, goes and ſays Maſs. But the main Reaſon is, becauſe there grows excellent Wine in this place, which being cheaper by half here, than it is at Tocat, obliges the Armenians to ſtop here, to provide themſelves for the reſt of their Journey.

Two Leagues from Charliqueu, you croſs over very high Mountains, with Precipices on both ſides. It is the cuſtom of the Armenians, when they hear of the approach of a Caravan, to ride out two or three days journey to meet their Country-men and carry them freſh Proviſions. Theſe of Charliqueu coming to meet our Caravan, three of the Armenians took a large Morning▪draughts, which made them ſo Pot▪valiant, that they would needs ride before to the Town alone by themſelves; but by the way they were ſet upon by ſix Horſe men that came from the North, where there are higher Mountains than thoſe which we were to croſs. Immediately the Thieves darted their Half-Pikes at the Armenians, in ſo much that two of them fell down mortally wounded, and the other ſav'd himſelf among the Rocks, but the Thieves got their Horſes and Goods, which were valu'd at ten thouſand Crowns. The Caravan at the top of the Hill beheld the misfortune of thoſe poor men which their own folly had brought upon them, but could not help them, by reaſon of the narrowneſs of the ways; beſides, that the Thieves knowing all the by-turnings, were preſently out of ſight. And therefore it is a dangerous thing to leave the Body of the Caravans, either by ſtaying too far behind, or running too faſt before: and ſome have ſuffer'd for diſtancing themſelves not above five hundred Paces from it.

The Caravans do not not make their Journeys all alike; but come to their Stages ſometimes ſooner, ſometimes later, according as they meet with Waters and Inns, or places fit to pitch their Tents in, to which places the Natives bring Proviſion and Provender from the Mountains. There are ſome places where there is a neceſſity to provide Straw and Barley for two or three days. If you travel in May▪ when the Graſs is high, it coſts nothing to ſeed the Horſes and Camels For as ſoon as the Caravan is lodg'd, the Servants go and cut the Graſs from off the Hillocks, where it is much better then upon the Plains. But while the Beaſts feed only upon Graſs they are much weaker, and cannot travel ſo far as at other times.

From the Mountain where the Armenians were ſet upon, you come to Almous, a little Village upon a River, which you croſs, over a Bridge of Wood.

Going out of Almous, you croſs a large Plain, at the end whereof you lodge upon the Bank of a fair River, call'd Toufanlou-ſou, which falls into the River of Tocat.

Having paſs'd this River, you aſcend a high Mountain, which the People of the Country call Kara▪behir▪beguiendren, or, the Mountain that ſtops the Grand Signors; for it is very rugged, and you muſt of neceſſity alight to aſcend it. In that bad Way two Horſes that carry'd each of them two Bales of Engliſh Cloth burſt under their Burthen, which prov'd excellent Food for ſeveral Tartars that were before us, and were pitch'd in the place where we intended to have lodg'd our ſelves; ſo that we were forc'd to go a quarter of a League farther. Theſe Tartars when they heard of our two dead Horſes, made immediately to the Mountain fifteen or ſixteen of them with all joy imaginable to devour it. They flea'd the Horſes, and when they came back (for I ſtay'd to ſee them) they brought every one a great piece of Fleſh between the Saddle and their Horſes backs. For by that means the Fleſh mortifies, and bakes as it were, through the motion and heat of the Horſe, and ſo they eat it without any more a-do. I ſaw one of them that took a piece of thoſe Horſes Fleſh, and after he had beaten it ſoundly between two naſty Linnen Clothes, with a piece of Stick, ſet his Teeth in it, and devour'd it with a very greedy appetite.

Upon the top of the Mountain which I have mention'd, there is a Plain, and in the midſt of the Plain a Fountain call'd Cheſmé-beler, or, A Fountain of Chriſtal; near to which, on the South-ſide, there ſtands a Village.

From the place where we lodg'd, we came to a little Town called Adras, the Inhabitants whereof are all Armenians.

Aſpidar is but two Leagues from Adras, and is but a Village.

Isbeder is another Village in the Mountains, where the Caravan generally ſtays one or two days; as well to pay the Cuſtom, which is the fourth part of a Rixdollar upon every Camel, and half as much for every Horſe; as for the excellency and cheapneſs of the Wine, where every Man provides for himſelf.

Twice we paſs'd by and paid nothing, in regard that the Caravan was too ſtrong for the Toll-gatherers; and were it not that they ſtay for the Wine, they might go directly forward without paying any thing.

Leaving Isbeder, we came to another great Town in the Mountains; all the Houſes are hewn out of the Rock upon which it is ſeated, as are alſo all the Stair-Caſes. From this Village, having paſs'd a River, over a wooden Bridge, at the end ▪whereof there ſtands an Inn, you come to Zacapa, another Village, from whence through very narrow paſſages, where you are forc'd to unload the Camels, and carry your Goods upon Mens ſhoulders for thirty Paces together, you come to encamp in a little Plain. It lyes at the foot of a high Mountain, which they call Dikmebell, beyond which lies the Town Kourd Aga, after which you croſs three Rivers; one fordable, the other over two Bridges, and then you come to a Village call'd Garmeru.

From Garmeru you go to Seukmen, another Village; from Seukmen to Louri; from Louri to Chaouqueu, which are two very handſom Towns.

I ſaw an Old man at Chaouqueu who was above a Hundred and Thirty Years old, who when Sultan Amurath beſieged Bagdat, gave his whole Army as much Oats as ſerv'd them one whole day. In recompence whereof, the Sultan exempted him and his Children from all Taxes and Tolls for their Lives.

Leaving Chaouqueu, you come to a high craggy Mountain which is call'd Aaggidogii, or, The Bitter Mountain. The Ways being narrow, the Caravan is forc'd to travel ſingle; and then it is that they count all the Horſes, and all the Camels; every Horſe and every Camel paying to the Caravan-Maſter a certain Duty, which amounts to a good Sum if the Caravan be numerous. One part of that Money is to pay ſeven or eight Armenians, that guard the Caravan all the way; another part defrays the Expences upon the Road; and the remainder is the Captain of the Caravan's Profit.

Having paſs'd this Mountain, you come • to lodge in a Plain which they call Giogandereſi, and from thence to Erzerom you meet only with three Villages by the way, Achikala, Ginnis, and Higia, which are the Caravan's Stages. During theſe three laſt days▪ journeys, you keep all along the Banks of Euphrates for the moſt part, which is yet but narrow, taking its ſource Northward of Erzerom. 'Tis a wonderful thing to ſee the vaſt quantities of large Aſparagus that grow all along the River, with which you may load ſeveral Camels.

A League on this ſide Erzerom the Caravan is conſtrain'd to ſtop; For the Officer of the Cuſtom▪Houſe accompani'd with the Baſha's Lieutenant, comes here and tyes all the Bales and Cheſts with a croſs Cord, upon which he puts a Seal, to the end that when the Merchants come to the Town, they may not be able to take out any Bags of Money, or any pieces of Stuff on purpoſe to hide them till they go away. The particular Buſineſs of the Baſha's Lieutenant in meeting the Caravan, is to ſee whether the Merchants be well provided with Wines. And if he deſire any Bottles, whether it be then, or in the City, where they are not aſham'd to viſit every Merchant, there is no refuſing them. For there grows no Wine at Erzerom, all that is drank there being a ſmall Wine of Mingrelia, which is always green: which forces the Merchants to furniſh themſelves with Wine at Tocat, which they may do ſufficiently to laſt them into Perſia. The Officer of the Cuſtom-Houſe generally allows the Caravan three days to reſt; during which time, he ſends to the principal Merchants ſome Fruit and other ſmall Refreſhments, by which he is no loſer. After the three days are over, he comes and opens all the Bales and Cheſts, and takes a particular account of all the Merchandizes. This Search and the changing of Beaſts, cauſes the Caravan to ſtay generally twenty or five and twenty days at Erzerom.

Erzerom is a frontier Town of Turkie toward Perſia. It is ſituated at the end of a large Plain environ'd with Mountains, the Plain being beautified with many fair Villages. If you take in the Caſtle and the Suburbs, it may paſs for a City, but the Houſes are ill built of Wood, without any neatneſs or proportion. There are ſome Remains of Churches and of the ancient Buildings of the Armenians, by which you may conjecture that it never was very beautiful. The Fortreſs ſtands upon a high ground, with a double Wall, ſquare Towers cloſe one to another, and a pitiful Moat. The Baſha reſides there but in a very ill Houſe, all the Buildings about the Fortreſs being in a bad condition. In the ſame Encloſure there is a little riſing Ground upon which they have rais'd a ſmall Fort, wherein the Janiſary-Aga lives, and where the Baſha has no Power. When the Grand Signor has a mind to the Head of this Baſha, or any other conſiderable Perſon in the Province, he ſends a Capigi, with order to the Janiſary to ſend for the Perſon to the little Fort, where the Execution is preſently done. One Example hereof I ſaw in my laſt Travels into Perſia: For the Baſha of Erzerom not having ſent Twelve thouſand men ſo ſoon as the Grand Signor requir'd them for his Wars in Candy, the ſame Capigi that brought the Sentence of his Death, had the ſame Order for the Execution of the Baſha of Kars; and meeting this Capigi upon the Road in a Village, upon his return for Conſtantinople, he would needs ſhew me whether I would or no, the Heads of the two Baſha's, which he was carrying to the Grand Signor in a Bag.

Between the firſt and ſecond Gate of the Fortreſs are to be ſeen four and twenty Pieces of Cannon, moſt excellent Guns, but lying one upon another without Carriages. They lye at Erzerom to be ready upon all occaſions when the Grand Signor makes war againſt the Perſians.

There are in Erzerom ſeveral great Inns; this City, like Tocat, being one of the greateſt Thoroughfares in Turkie. The Country about it bears Wine, but not very good, and in regard the People are ſtrictly forbid to drink Wine, the Merchants are forc'd to buy it very privately, for fear it ſhould come to the knowledge of the Cadi. Though it be very cold at Erzerom, Barly grows there in fourty days, and Wheat in ſixty, which is very remarkable. The Cuſtoms paid there for the carrying out of the Gold and Silver, and upon all other Commodities, is very ſevere. Silk, that comes out of Perſia, pays four and twenty Crowns for a Camel's Load, which is eight hundred Pounds. For in the mountainous Countries a Camel's Load is no more; but in the plain and even Countries they make 'em carry above ten hundred weight. A Load of Indian Calicuts pays a hundred Crowns; but the Loads of Linnen are much heavier than thoſe of Silk. As for other Commodities, they pay Six per cent according to their value.

From this Stage the Caravan ſets forward to a Fortreſs call'd Haſſan Kala, where you muſt pay half a Piaſter for every Camel's or Horſes Load going from Erzerom to Erivan, but returning you, pay but half as much.

Leaving this Fortreſs, you muſt go and lodge at a Bridge near to a Village which is call'd Coban-Cupri. Over this Bridge, which is the faireſt in the whole Journey, you croſs two Rivers which there meet, one is the Kars, and the other is a Stream that falls from a Mountain call'd Binguiel, both which disburthen themſelves into the Aras. The Caravan uſually ſtays a day or two at this Bridge; becauſe the Caravan divides it ſelf at this place, ſome continuing on the High-road, others taking the Road of Kars, as well to avoid fording the Aras ſeveral times, as the paying a great Duty upon the great Road, where they exact four Piaſters upon every Camel's Load, and two upon every Horſe-Load, whereas at Kars you are diſmiſs'd for half ſo much.

I went Kars Road twice; but it is longer, and more troubleſome than the other. As ſoon as you leave the Bridge, for the firſt four days you travel over woody Mountains, and very deſert Countries, where you meet but with one Village; but coming near Kars the Country is more pleaſant, and well manur'd; bearing all ſorts of Grain.

Kars is in 78 Deg. 40 Min. of Longitude, and 42 Deg. 40 Min. of Latitude; in a very good Soil. The City is very large, but thinly peopl'd, though Proviſion be very plentiful and very cheap. But the Grand Signor always chooſing that place to rendezvouz his Army, whenever he intended to recruit it, and to lodge his People there which he ſent to build Villages; the King of Perſia has ruin'd all the Country, as he did at Sulfa, and in many other Frontier places, for nine or ten days journey together.

From Kars to Erivan the Caravan makes it nine days journey, and lyes where it can find moſt convenience, there being no certain Stages. The firſt days journey ends at a Monaſtery and a Village, the one no leſs deſerted than the other. The next day you come to the Ruines of a great City, call'd Anikagae, in the Armenian Language the City of Ani, which was the name of an Armenian King that was the Founder of it. By the Wall, on the Eaſt-ſide, runs a rapîd ſtream that falls from the Mountains of Mingrelia, and empties it ſelf into the River of Kars. This City was very ſtrongly ſituated; being placed in a Merſh, where are to be ſeen the Remains of two Cauſeys that only lead to the Town. There are the Ruines of ſeveral Monaſteries; among the reſt two that are entire, ſuppos'd to be Royal Foundations. From thence to Erivan for two days jourhey, you meet with only two Villages; near the laſt of which you ride by the ſide of a Hill, whether when the Caravan paſſes by, the people bring Horſes from ſeveral parts to be ſold. The Great Road from the Bridge, where the Caravan parts, lyes thus:

Two Leagues from the Bridge, on the right hand toward the South, lyes a great Mountain which the People of the Country call Mingol. In this Mountain there are abundance of Springs, and from one ſide of it falls Euphrates, from the other ſide the River of Kars, which empties it ſelf into the Aras fourteen or fifteen Leagues on this ſide Erivan. The Aras, which the Ancients call'd Araxes, falls from other Mountains Eaſtward of Mingol, which after many windings through the Upper Armenia, where it receives many other Rivers that ſwell its Streams, it diſcharges it ſelf into the Caſpian Sea, two days journey from Shamaki, upon the Frontiers of the ancient Medes.

The whole Country is inter-cut by the Rivers Aras and Kars, and ſeveral other Streams that fall into them, inhabited by very few, but what are Chriſtians; thoſe few Mahumetans that live among them being ſo ſuperſtitious, that they will not drink the Water of any of thoſe Rivers, nor waſh in them▪ believing them impure and defil'd by the uſe which the Chriſtians make of them. They have their particular Wells and Ciſterns by themſelves, which they will not ſuffer a Chriſtian to come near.

Comaſour is the firſt Village where you lodge after you leave the Bridge of Choban-Kupri, going to Erivan.

Halicarcara is the next Stage to Comaſour: this is a great Town alſo inhabited by Chriſtians, but the Houſes are built all under-ground like Caves. Coming thither the 7th of March 1655, the Snow was ſo deep that there was no travelling, ſo that we were forc'd to ſtay there eight days. But the Cuſtomer of Erzerom underſtanding in what a bad condition we were, came in perſon with five hundred Horſe to make way for us, and ſent for the Country people round about to clear away the Snow. But it was not ſo much out of kindneſs to us, as for his own Intereſt. For a new Officer being to ſucceed him upon the 22d o • March, and our Caravan being very numerous, he would have loſt above an Hundred Thouſand Crowns, had we not come to Erzerom before that day. Many of the Paſſengers were almoſt blinded by continually looking upon the Snow, the colour whereof very much dims the Sight: for preſervation whereof the Travellers are wont to wear black Cypreſs Hoods, made on purpoſe, over their faces. Others wear furr'd Bonnets fring'd about with Goats hair, which being long, falls over their Eyes, and does altogether as well as the Hood.

The Caravan is uſually twelve days upon the Road, from Erzerom to Erivan. Leaving Halicarcara, you ford the Aras three times, and croſs it the next day again: for it winds exceedingly. A League and a half from the place where you ford it the fourth time, upon the top of a high Mountain ſtands a Fortreſs call'd Kaguiſgan, which is the laſt place which the Turks poſſeſs on that ſide. The Cuſtomers that live there come to the Caravan to take their Toll, which is four Piaſters for every Camel loaden, and two for every Horſe loaden. In the year 1655 the Caravan lodging about a League from the Fortreſs of Kaguiſgan, the Mountains adjoyning being inhabited by Chriſtian Armenians, there came to us a poor Biſhop attended by fifteen or ſixteen perſons, among which there were certain Prieſts who brought us Bread, Fowl, and Fruit, deſiring the Charity of the Merchants, who recompenc'd them to their ſatisfaction. About four or five Months after, this Biſhop had one of his Eyes ſtruck out by a Janiſary. That wicked Fellow came to the Town where the Biſhop liv'd, and lighting upon the Biſhop, ask'd him for Money, which becauſe the Biſhop had none to give him, in a rage he ſtabb'd him in the Eye with his Dagger. Complaint was made to the Aga, who 'tis thought would have puniſh'd the Offender, but he fled, and leſt the Biſhop without remedy of ſatiſfaction.

From the laſt place where we encamp'd near the Aras, we went and lodg'd the next day upon the ſame River, in the ſight of a Village not above a quarter of a League. The Next day we croſs'd the River that runs from Kars, and parts Turkie from Perſia. The next day we ſtop'd upon the Banks of Aras, half a League from a little Town; and this is the laſt time you ſee this River which you are conſtrain'd to paſs ſo often.

Leaving Aras, we came to lodge in a plain, in ſight of a Town which is not far diſtant. The next day the Caravan lyes in the Field, and the next day it comes to a place where there are three Churches, whence it is but half a days journey from Erivan.

CHAP. III. A Continuation of the Road from Conſtantinople to Iſpahan, from the Borders of Perſia to Erivan.

THE firſt Place worthy obſervation, entring into Perſia through Armenia, is that which they call the Three Churches, three Leagues from Erivan; which Three Churches, are three Monaſteries diſtant one from the other. The biggeſt and the faireſt is the Reſidence of the Patriarch of the Armenians. There is another to the South of that, about a Musket ſhot diſtant, and another a quarter of a League from it toward the Eaſt, which is a Nunnery for Virgins. The Armenians call this place Egm • aſin, or the only Daughter, which is the Name of the chief Church. You may find in their Chronicles, That it began to be Built about three hundred Years after Chriſt, and that the Walls being rais'd to a good height, the Devil came in the Night and pull'd down what they built up in the Day; which he did for ſeveral Years: but that one Night Chriſt himſelf appear'd, and that from that time the Devil ſurceas'd to moleſt them any more; ſo that they finiſh'd the Church. It is dedicated to St. Gregory, whom the Armenians have in very great veneration. And there is a Table of Stone, whereupon, according to their Chronicles, Chriſt reſted when he appear'd to St. Gregory. They that go into the Church, kiſs this Stone with a very ſolemn Devotion.

The ſecond is built in honour of a Princeſs that came with forty Virgins of Quality to viſit St. Gregory. This Lady an Armenian King caus'd to be thrown into a Well full of Serpents? but ſhe receiv'd no harm. For ſhe li • 'd▪ therein 14 Years by a great Miracle, and from that time to this, the Serpents that breed thereabouts never did any harm. That idolatrous King had a deſign to have enjoy'd that Princeſs, who was very handſome, and all her Companions; but they overcame him by their Virtue: who thereupon, ſeeing he could not have his Will, put them all to Death.

The Cuſtom of all the Armenians, as well thoſe that come out of Perſia, as thoſe that travel into Perſia, is to perform their Devotions at theſe Three Churches; and the Caravan ſtops uſually five or ſix days, during which time they Confeſs, and receive Abſolution from the Patriarch.

The Patriarch has under him forty ſeven Archbiſhops, and every Archbiſhop has under him four or five Suffragans, with whom he lives in a Convent, where there are ſeveral Monks under their Juriſdiction. So ſoon as they have ſaid their Maſs, which is generally done an Hour after Day, they all go to work, and to dig and delve for their living. The Revenue of the Patriarch is 600000 Crowns or thereabouts: for all the Armenian Chriſtians that are above fifteen Years of age, ought to pay him yearly five Sous. However there are many that do not pay him, by reaſon of their poverty. Yet their defect is ſuppli'd by the rich, who ſometimes pay him two or three Crowns a Head. But this Money does not ſtay in the Patriarch's Pocket: nay he is ſometimes behind-hand; for he is engag'd to relieve the poor Armenians, who have not wherewithal to pay the Carage, which is an Annual Tribute that they owe to the Mahometan Princes, to whom they are ſubject: Otherwiſe neceſſity would force them to become Mahometans; and they, their Wives and Children would be liable to be ſold, which the Grand Patriarch labours all he can to prevent. Every Archbiſhop ſends him out of his Dioceſs what is neceſſary to be rais'd for that intent. So that the Patriarch does but only receive it with one Hand, and pay it with the other; making no profit to himſelf of a Revenue which he has out of 400000 Villages, which the Archbiſhop of St. Stephen's affirm'd to me to be under his Juriſdiction.

As I return'd from Perſia in the Year 1655, I came to the Three Churches about the end of February; the Caravan ſtay'd there eleven Days, as well by reaſon of the great Snows that ſtop'd up the Ways, as for that the Armenians reſolv'd to keep their Carnival there, and after that to perform their Devotions. The next day I went to viſit the Patriarch, who was ſitting croſs-leg'd upon a Mat. There were four Archbiſhops, and nine Biſhops ſitting about him in the ſame poſture, among whom there was one that ſpake very good Italian. I ſtayed with him three Hours; and while we were diſcourſing together, in came one of the Monks of the Covent, who had not ſpoken to any perſon whatſoever in Two and twenty Years, by reaſon of a Penance that was impos'd upon him. Never did Man appear ſo meager and deformed; but the Patriarch ſent for him, and by his Authority commanded him to break ſilence, which he did, by ſpeaking at the ſame Inſtant.

The Saturday before Shrove-Sunday the Patriarch invited all the Caravan, as well Maſters as Servants, to hear Maſs the next day, and then to dine at the Covent. Maſs being concluded, the People were brought into a long Gallery, about 15 or 20 Foot broad, there being a Table on both ſides, made of ſeveral Stones, and Benches next the Walls. At the upper end of the Gallery ſtands a Table four Foot ſquare, over which is a vaulted Roof ſuſtain'd with four Pillars, which ſerves for a Canopy: in the midſt whereof is a Chair ſet for the Patriarch, who from thence has a full view of both ſides the Gallery; with two other Chairs of each hand, for two Archbiſhops: the other Archbiſhops, Monks, and Gueſts ſate at the long Tables. The Meat which they brought us was ſeveral ſorts of Pilaw, and ſeveral Diſhes of Fiſh, among the reſt excellent Trouts. The Pilaw was brought in forty wide Plates, ſo well fill'd and ſo large, that they were every one as much as a Man could carry. They were all ſet down upon the Ground before the Patriarch; who then Pray'd and gave Thanks. Then ſix Biſhops with Ladles took out the Meat out of the great Platters, and putting it into leſſer, ſerv'd both the Tables. Every one had alſo his earthen Pot of Wine, which was very good, and was fill'd again when it was empty. The Patriarch and the two Archbiſhops eat nothing but two Eggs, and a few raw Herbs; no more did the other Archbiſhops that ſate at the Table.

At the end of the Feaſt, a Biſhop comes with a Paper and Pen and Ink in his Hand, and asks of every one what he pleaſes to Subſcribe for the Benefit of the Church; then every one propoſing, according to his Devotion, the Biſhop writes down the Names of the Perſons, and the Sum which they mention; which he comes and gathers the next day. There are ſome rich Merchants that will give two Tomans, but the meaneſt Servant will give an Or. The Biſhop having done writing, the Table was clear'd, and then they brought us Melons and other Fruits. In a ſhort while after the Bells rung to Evening Service, and the People went to Church.

After Evening Service the Patriarch ſent for me to behold a Combat of Bufalo's, of which there are great ſtore in that Country, ſome ſerving to Till their Ground, while the Female ones yield ſtore of Milk, of which they make Butter and Cheeſe, and which they mingle with all ſorts of other Milk: There are ſome of theſe female Beaſts that will give two and twenty Pints of Milk a day.

They brought us into a wide Encloſure, to behold the Sport, wherein there were eight Bufalo's. To provoke them one againſt another, they ſhew them a Red Cloth, which puts them into ſuch a Rage, that there were two that dy'd with the ſtroke of their Horns upon the place, and there were none of the reſt which were not very much lam'd. The Sport being at an end, they bring a great quantity of Wood, which they pile together on purpoſe to ſet it on Fire. When the Wood was heap'd in as big a Pile as they intended, one of the Archbiſhops preſented a Taper of white Wax to all the Company, both Maſters and Servants, who every one agreed with him what they ſhould give the next day for their Tapers. The Tapers being lighted, the Patriarch with a Stick like a Biſhop's Croſier, march'd before, ſinging an Hymn, attended by all the Perſons both Eccleſiaſtical and Secular, till they had in that manner walk'd three times about the Pile. When the Pile came to be lighted, there was great ſtriving who ſhould have the Honour. One of the Merchants offer'd a quantity of Oyl, for Lamps for the Church; another out-did him, and a third proffer'd more than he; and the Honour of Lighting the Pile was given to him that offer'd moſt. Immediately upon that every one put out his Taper: For they eſteem it a moſt precious buſineſs; believing that the lighting of one of thoſe Tapers in a Storm, and throwing it into the Sea, is a preſent Charm againſt Shipwrack. For ſay they, The Virgin Mary, forty days after ſhe was brought to Bed, went to Jeruſalem with Joſeph and her Son; and going into the Temple met old Simeon, who taking the Child in his Arms, began to ſing the Song, Lord▪ now let thy Servant, &c. the Song being ended, all the People began to cry that Chriſt was born, and to publiſh it about the City. Now in regard it was Night, every one ran out with Torches in their Hands, and ſome made Fires before their Doors, where Chriſt was to paſs along. This Feſtival among the Armenians is like that of Candlemas-day; and they call it in their Language, Ter en Areche? Where is the Lord? The Armenians, Maſters and Servants, drank all Night to make an end of their Carnival: while the Patriarch was buſie in dreſſing up the Church with its gayeſt Ornaments.

I could not believe there had been ſo much Riches in the Chriſtian Churches under the Power of the Mahumetans. It is not a hundred Years ſince this Patriarchal Church was in a much meaner Condition: But ſince the great Sha-Abas put the Armenians upon Traffick, they have very much enrich'd themſelves: For as they go • great Gains; ſo they made great Vows, and gave largely to the Church▪

• a • er •• ers Perſian travels Pag. 13

wherein there are now as rich Ornaments as in any Church of Chriſtendom. The Choir of the Church was hung round with a Venetian Tiſſue of Gold. The Pavement alſo of the Choir and the Body of the Church, together with the Steps to the Altar, were ſpread with rich Tapeſtry. For they all put off their Shooes before they go into the Church; nor do the Armenians kneel as in Europe, but ſtand all the while upright. When they hear Maſs, they ſit after the Mode of the Country, but when the Leſſons are reading they ſtand up. All the Service-time their Heads are cover'd, unleſs at the Elevation of the Hoſt, for then they take off their Bonnets, and kiſs the Earth three times. There was upon the Altar a Croſs, with ſix Candleſticks of Gold; and upon the Steps to the Altar four Candleſticks of Silver five foot high. After they had ſung ſeveral Hymns, the Patriarch ſeated himſelf in a Chair cover'd with Silk Tapeſtry, four Archbiſhops ſitting with their Backs to a Pillar at his right hand. The Service was ſolemnly perform'd by an Archbiſhop, with two Biſhops on each ſide of him. After the Archbiſhop had made certain Prayers, he took the Book wherein he had read the Goſpel and gave it the Patriarch, the Archbiſhops, Biſhops, and all the People to Kiſs. On the one ſide of the Cover of that Book there are two Relicks enchas'd, which are cover'd with Cryſtal, which was the ſide of the Book that was given to be Kiſs'd. The Ceremony being ended, many went to Kiſs the Patriarch's Hand, and ſo retir'd.

Ten Leagues from Erivan, toward the North, appears a great Lake, wherein there is an Iſland, upon which is built a very fair Covent. The Monks that live there, live ſo auſtere a Life, that they never eat Fiſh or Fleſh above four times a Year: neither do they ſpeak one to another, but upon thoſe four Days. The reſt of the Year they feed only upon Herbs, which they gather out of the Garden: for ſay they, it is not Faſting, to eat either Butter or Oyl. The Bread which they eat is brought from the neighbouring Villages: and the Iſland is repleniſh'd with all ſorts of excellent Fruits.

On the one ſide of the Lake nearer to Erivan is a large Plain, wherein there are ſix Monaſteries. One of which is entirely hewn out of the Rock, with the Pillars that ſuſtain it, being ſeated in a very hard Rock. The Armenians call that Church Kickart in their Language, and the Turks in theirs Guicurghieche, that is, See and away. In this Church, according to the Traditions of the Armenians, is kept the Lance wherewith the Side of Chriſt was pierc'd; the Figure whereof I caus'd to be drawn upon the Place. The Armenians have this Lance in great Veneration, ſaying, that it was brought thither by St. Matthew.

Five Leagues from Erivan, towards the South-Eaſt, begins the Mountain Ararat; which will be always famous for being the reſting-place of Noah's Ark. Half a Leaugue from that Mountain, where the Plain begins to grow level, ſtands a Church upon a little Hillock, cloſe by which are ſeveral Pits like Wells. They report that it was into one of theſe Wells that Cerda, an Armenian King, caus'd St. Gregory to be thrown, becauſe he would not Worſhip his falſe Gods. Between this Church and Erivan are to be ſeen the Ruines of the Ancient Artaxate, the Seat of the Kings of Armenia, which demonſtrate that it has been a great City: beſides, there appear the Ruines of a fair Palace.

Erivan lies in 64 Degrees, 20 Minutes of Longitude; 41 Degrees, 15 Minutes of Latitude; in a moſt plentiful Country of all things neceſſary for Humane Life, but eſpecially abounding in good Wine. It is one of the beſt Provinces of all Perſia, and yields the King a very large Revenue, as well by reaſon of the goodneſs of the Soil, as for being the great Thoroughfare of the Caravans. The yearly Revenue of the Governour only, otherwiſe call'd the Kan of Erivan, amounts to above 20000 Tomans, which make 840000 Livres. This City lying upon the Frontiers of both Empires, has been taken and retaken by the Turks and Perſians, ſeveral times. By which means the old City being ruin'd, they have built a new one, 800 Paces on this ſide, upon a Rock, at the foot whereof, upon the Weſt-ſide runs a rapid Stream: it is call'd by the Name of Sangui-Cija, and in many places it is deep and full of Rocks. You croſs it, over a fair Bridge of three Arches, in which are built little Chambers, where the Kan retires in the heat of the day. It is full of Fiſh▪ eſpecially Trouts, which nevertheleſs are dear enough. This River comes from a Lake called Gigaguni; about 25 Leagues from Erivan, toward the North, and falls into the Aras, that runs not above three Leagues off to the South. Though this City be fortified to the Weſt by the River, yet it is never the ſtronger, by reaſon of the Hills on the other ſide which command it: and in regard it is built upon a rock, the Moats of the Fort are not above three or four Foot deep. In ſome places the City is ſecur'd with a double Wall with ſeveral Towers; but the Walls being only of Earth, as are moſt of the Houſes, the Rain does more miſchief, than the Cannon would do. That part of Erivan to the North-Weſt, is a kind of Suburb, but far better inhabited then the City: for there live all the Merchants and Artificers, together with the Chriſtian Armenians, who have four Churches there, with a Monaſtery. And of late years they have built alſo a very fair Inn in the ſame Quarter. In the City there only lives the Kan, with the Military Officers and Souldiers; the Kan's Lodgings lying upon the River. The Governour is a Perſon of great Power, and has always ſufficient Forces about him to guard the Frontiers. The Summer being very hot at Erivan, he lyes in Tents upon the Mountains during the Heat. When a Caravan arrives, he is forc'd to give the King advice thereof: and if any Ambaſſador come thither, he is bound to maintain him at his own expence, and to cauſe him to be conducted to the Territories of the next Governour, who is oblig'd to do the ſame. So that Ambaſſadors are not bound to be at any Expenees in the Territories of the King of Perſia. Four Leagues from the City are high Mountains, where the Natives that inhabit the hot and Sun▪burnt Countries toward Chaldea, come Twenty Thouſand together, to ſeek out good Paſturage for their Cattel▪ and about the end of Autumn return again into their own Country. I cannot compare this Mountanious Tract, whether for its Valleys▪ and Rivers, or for the nature of the Soil, to any Part that I have ſeen, better than to that proportion of Switzerland, which is call'd the Country of Vanx: and there is a Tradition among the Natives, That certain people that inhabited between the Alpes and Mount Jura, and which compos'd a Squadron of Alexander's Army, having ſerv'd him in his Conqueſts, ſeated themſelves in this part of Armenia, which they found ſo like their own Country. From Tocat to Tauris the Inhabitants are for the moſt part Chriſtians. Which large Tract of Ground being that which the Ancients call'd the Province of Armenia, 'tis no wonder to meet with fifty Armenians for one Mahometan. There are many ancient Armenian Families in Erivan, which is their native Country; but they are well us'd by the Governours, who being far diſtant from the Court, do what they pleaſe. This City not being far remote from the Province from whence the Silks come, is the place where all the Buyers and Sellers reſort. But neither in Erivan, nor in any other part of Perſia are the Merchants put to open their Bales at the Cuſtom-Houſes, as in Turkie. They only pay certain Duties toward ſecuring the Highways; which Duties they call Raderies, and thoſe tha • gather them Raders.

The Kans or Governours of Provinces in Perſia are civil to Strangers, eſpecially to thoſe that they like, or that ſhew them any thing of Curioſity. The firſt time that I went into Perſia I took a young Watchmaker with me, and coming to Erivan, I carried him to the Kan who was then Governour. It was at a time when Watches were very rare in Perſia; and the Kan, underſtanding what▪ Trade the Young Man was of, told us he was the firſt Watch-maker that ever had been in Perſia: Thereupon he brought the young man a Watch to mend, and that he might have the pleaſure of ſeeing him work, he lodg'd us in a Chamber next his own, and made us drink with him every day; for he was a true Toper, and compell'd us to drink with him from four in the Afternoon 'till near Midnight, in a place which he had made on purpoſe, in his Garden, to take off his Glaſſes.

This was he, that having deliver'd Erivan to Sultan Amurat, went along with him to Conſtantinople, and became his Favourite for teaching him to Drink. Amurat left a Garriſon of 22000 Men in the City; but Sha-Shefi the Perſian King begirt it preſently with a ſtrong Army; and planting him ſecurely under one of the Hills that command the City, he batter'd it inceſſantly with eight Pieces of Cannon: the fourth day he made a Breach, and though he had the repute of a Coward, he was the firſt at the Aſſault, and took the City: and becauſe they would not yield at his Summons, he put all the Garriſon to the Sword. For which Amurat, was quit with Sha-Shefi afterwards, though not in ſo noble a way; for entering a Victor into Bagdat, he put all the Perſians to the Sword, after he had given them his word to the contrary, and promis'd to ſpare their lives.

The Platform of Erivan and the Suburbs. A. The Town and Fort. B. The Suburbs, inhabited by the Armenian Chriſtians. C. The Church. D. The Covent. E. The River of Sangui-cija. F. The Stone Bridge. G The Highway for the Caravans. H. The Fort which Sha-Sefi built to batter the City. I. The River that falls from the Mountain. K. The Highway to T uris. L. The way to • efl •• the chief City of Georgia; and the way to the Mountain where th • 〈◊〉 of 〈◊〉 twice a Summer to drink. M. The Market places, for 〈◊〉 of 〈◊〉 .

CHAP. IV. A Continuation of the ſame Road from Erivan to Tauris.

IT uſually takes up ten days journey for the Caravan to go between Erivan and Tauris; and Nakſivan is almoſt in the mid-way between both. The firſt days journey you travel through large Plains ſow'd with Rice, and water'd with ſeveral Rivulets. The next day you contiue to Travel through Plains of the ſame nature, in ſight of the Mountain Ararat, which is full of Monaſteries, leaving it upon the South. The Armenians call this Mountain Meſeſoufar, The Mountain of the Ark; becauſe the Ark of Noah reſted upon it. It is as it were unfaſten'd from the other Mountains of Armenia, and from the half-way to the top, it is continually cover'd with Snow. It is higher than any of the neighbouring Mountains; and in my firſt Travells I ſaw it for five days Journey together. So ſoon as the Armenians diſcover it, they kiſs the Earth, and lifting up their eyes to Heaven, ſay their Prayers. Yet you are to take notice, that the Mountain is hid in Clouds for two or three Months together: In the plains that you croſs in this ſecond days journey, to the Southward a League and a half from the Highway, is to be ſeen a work of great Art; being the Ruines of a Magnificent Caſtle, where the Kings of Armenia were wont to reſide in the time of their Hunting Divertiſements; more eſpecially when they continu'd their ſports at the Mallard and Heron. The next day we lodg'd near to a Village where there was good Water, which conſtrain'd the Caravan to ſtay there; there being none to be met with for ten Leagues farther. The next day you muſt Travel one by one through the Paſs of a Mountain, and croſs a large River nam'd Arpaſon, which falls into Aras. It is fordable when it is low, but when the Snow melts and ſwells the ſtream, you muſt go a League out of your way to the Southward to croſs it, over a Bridge of Stone. From thence you go to lodge near a Village call'd Kalifakiend, where you are forc'd to fetch you Water a good way off. The firſt days journey is through a Plain, at the end whereof you meet with an Inn, call'd Kara-bagler, ſtanding upon a Rivulet; which was finiſh'd in 1664. The Head of this Rivulet ſprings three or four Leagues higher toward the North; and half a League below Kara-Bagler, the Water congeals and petrifies; and of thoſe Stones is the Inn built. The Stone is very ſlight; and when they have need of it, they make Trenches all along the Stream, and fill them with the ſame Water, which in eight or ten Months turns into Stone. The Water is very ſweet, and has no bad taſt; yet the Country-men thereabouts will neither drink it, no water their Grounds with it. The Armenians ſay, that Sem the Son of Noah caus'd the Rock to be hollow'd, out of which this River iſſues; which four or five Leagues from its Head, and two from the Inn, falls into Aras. From this Inn to Naksivan is but a ſmall Journey. Naksivan, according to the Opinion of the Armenians, is the moſt ancient City of the World▪ built about three Leagues from the Mountain upon which the Ark of Noah reſted: from whence it alſo takes its Name; for Nak in the Armenian Tongue ſignifies a Ship, and Sivan, reſting or repoſing. 'Twas a great City, now wholly ruin'd by the Army of Sultan Amurath. There are the Remains of ſeveral rare Moſquees, which the Turks have deſtroy'd; for the Turks and Perſians deſtroy one anothers Moſquees as faſt as they fall into one anothers poſſeſſion. This City is very ancient, and the Armenians report, that it was in this place where Noah went to live, when he went out of the Ark. They ſay further, that he was Buried here; and that his Wife has a Tomb at Marante upon the Road to Tauris. There runs a little River by Naksivan, the Water whereof is very good; the Spring whereof is not far diſtant from the Head of the River of Karabagler. The Armenians drove a great Trade in Silk formerly in this Town, which is now very much abated: however, there is a Kan which has the Command there. All the Country between Erivan and Tauris was wholly deſtroy'd by Sha-Abas King of Perſia, and the firſt of that Name; to the end that the Armies of the Turks, not meeting with any ſubſiſtance, might periſh of themſelves. To this purpoſe, he ſent all the Inhabitants of Zulfa and the Parts adjoyning into Perſia, Old and Young, Fathers, Mothers, and Children, with which he planted new Colonies in ſeveral parts of his Kingdome. He ſent above 27000 Families of Armenians into Guilan, whence the Silks come; and where the harſhneſs of the Climate kill'd abundance of thoſe poor people, that were accuſtom'd to a milder Air. The moſt conſiderable were ſent to Iſpahan, where the King put them upon the Trade of Silk, and lent them Commodities, for which they paid upon the return of their Markets, which ſuddenly ſet the Armenians upon their Feet again. Theſe are they that Built the City of Zulfa, which is only ſeparated from Iſpahan by the River of Senderou, calling it New Zulfa, to diſtinguiſh it from the old City, which was the Habitation of their Anceſtors. A third part of the people were diſpers'd into other Villages between Iſpahan and Sciras. But the old People dying, the young ones generally turn Mahumetans: ſo that now you can hardly meet with two Chriſtian Armenians in all thoſe fair Plains, which their Fathers were ſent to manure.

Among the Ruines of Naksivan appear the Ruines of a great Moſquee, which was one of the moſt ſtately Buildings in the World: which ſome ſay was built in memory of N • ah's Burying-place. As you depart out of the City, near to the River that runs by it, appears a Tower, which is an excellent piece of Architecture: It is compos'd of four Duomo's joyn'd together, which ſupport a kind of a Pyramid, that ſeems to be fram'd of twelve little Towers; but toward the middle it changes its figure, and leſſening like a Spire, ends in a Point. The Building is all of Brick, but as well the out-ſide as the in-ſide is over-ſpread with a kind of Varniſh of Parget, wrought into Flowers, like Emboſs'd work. 'Tis thought to have been an Edifice, ſet up by Temur-leng when he had Conquer'd Perſia.

Between Naksivan and Zulfa, on each ſide, as well to the North as to the South, there are ten Covents of Chriſtian Armenians, diſtant about two or three Leagues one from the other. They acknowledge the Pope, and are govern'd by certain Religious Dominicans of their own Nation. And to keep up their Religion, they ſend from time to time to Rome certain Children born in the Country, to learn the Latin and Italian Tongues, and other neceſſary Sciences. It is thought there are in this Quarter above ſix thouſand Souls that abſolutely follow the Doctrine of the Church of Rome; only that they ſing the Office and the Maſs in the Armenian Tongue, that all the People may hear and underſtand them. The Archbiſhop, being choſen, is ſent to Rome to be confirm'd. He reſides at a great Town, which is one of the moſt lovely places in all Aſia; the Wine and Fruits that grow there are very delicate, beſides the abundance of all other things neceſſary for Humane Life. Every Covent ſtands near a great Village: the chiefeſt where I have been twice, is Aba • ener, the ſecond Abraghonnex, the third Kerna, the fourth Soletak, the fifth Kouchkachen, the ſixth Giaouk, the ſeventh Chiabonnez, the eighth Araghouche, the ninth Kauzuk, the tenth Kiſouk, which lyes upon the Frontiers of Curdiſtan or Aſſyria: Here it is, that the Armenians believe St. Bartholomew and St. Matthew to have been Martyr'd, of which they pretend to ſhew ſome Relicks at this day, Many Mahometans came thither out of Devotion, eſpecially ſuch as are troubl'd with Feavers. There are two or three of thoſe Convents, where they civilly entertain ſuch Chriſtians as come out of Europe; though the Monks there are very poor. They alſo live very auſtere lives, feeding upon nothing but Herbs. That which makes them ſo poor, is the often change of Tyrannical Governours, whom they are oblig'd to preſent with large Gifts But in regard they cannot give much, thoſe Governours have no kindneſs for them; for which reaſon, being inſtigated by thoſe other Armenians who are able to oblige them, they uſe them ſo ſeverely, that they are often forc'd to complain to the King; which I have many times ſeen done at Ispahan.

A League and a half from the chief of theſe Covents there is a high Mountain, ſeparated from all the reſt, which riſes like a Sugar loaf, as doth the Pike of a Tenariff. At the foot of this Mountain are certain Springs, that have the virtue to heal thoſe that are bit by Serpents; in ſo much that Serpents carry'd to that place will dye immediately.

When the Caravan is ready to ſet out from Naksivan for Zulpha, which is not above a days journey from thence, the principal Armenians uſually go out of the way to the Covent of St. Stephen, which lyes to the South.

Now the Road from Naksivan to St. Stephen's lyes firſt to a great Village call'd Eccliſia, where live the richeſt Armenians, that drive a great Trade in Silk, and have built them a very fair Church.

Two Leagues from Eccleſia you muſt croſs the River Aras in a Ferry-Boat, being as it were fqueez'd between two Mountains in that place: Once I went over upon the Ice. About two Musket ſhot from thence, you muſt croſs over a Bridge, another River that ſalls into the Aras. From the foot of the Bridge you begin to aſcend a little Hill, at the top whereof you meet with a great Village, call'd Shambé, all the Inhabitants whereof, as well Men as Women, grow Mad at 18 years of age; but it is ſuch a madneſs that it is not miſchievous. Some believe it to be the Puniſhment of Heaven, for that their Forefathers in theſe Mountains perſecuted St. Bartholomew and St. Matthew.

From hence to Stephen's it is not above a League, but the Way is very troubleſom. St. Stephen's is a Convent built not above 30 years ago. It ſtands upon the Mountains, in a barren place, and of difficult acceſs. But the reaſon why the Armenians choſe that place before any other, is becauſe that St. Bartholomew and St. Matthew retir'd thither in the time of their Perſecution. They add, that St. Matthew did a Miracle in that place; for that there being no Water there before, he only ſtruck his ſtick upon the Ground, and preſently there aroſe a Spring. This Spring is about half a quarter of a League from the Convent, under a Vault with a good Door to it, to keep the Water from being waſted. The Armenians go to viſit this Spring in great Devotion, having laid the Water into the Covent with Pipes. They alſo ſay, that in this place they found ſeveral Relicks which St. Bartholomew and St. Matthew leſt there, to which they add a great many others; among the reſt a Croſs, made of the Baſin wherein Chriſt waſh'd his Diſciples Feet: In the middle of the Croſs is a white Stone, which as they report, if you lay upon a Sick perſon, will turn black if the perſon be likely to dye; and recover its former whiteneſs after the death of the party.

A law Bone of St. Stephen the Martyr.

The Scull of St. Matthew.

A Bone of the Neck, and a Bone of the Finger of St John Baptiſt.

A Hand of St. Gregory, who was the Diſciple of Dionyſius the Areopagite.

A little Box, wherein they keep a great number of pieces of Bones, which they believe to be the Relicks of the Seventy Two Diſciples.

The Church is built in the form of a Croſs, as are all the Churches of the Armenians; in the middle whereof riſe • a fa r Duomo, round about which ſtand the twelve Apoſtles. Both the Church and Covent are of Free ſtone, and though the whole Edifice be not very big, there has been abundance of Gold and Silver waſted upon the Walls: Many Armenian Families have been very much endamag'd thereby; for the Women were ſo devout, that unknown to their Husbands they ſold their Jewels, and their very Cloaths to defray the Expences of Building.

The firſt time that I was at St. Stephen's, in the company of ſome Armenians, two Biſhops, attended by ſeveral other Monks, came out to meet us, and led us into a great Hall, where we were very well treated. For it is the cuſtom of the Armenians, a little before Meals to preſent their Gueſts a large Cup of Aqua-Vitae, with Sweet-meats of all ſorts, beſides Citron and Orange-peels candy'd, in ſeven or eight Porcelan-diſhes, laid in a great China Baſin. This is a little Prelude to excite the Appetite; for the Armenians, both men and Women, will empty great Cups of Aqua-Vitae. After Dinner they go to Church, where they ſing certain Hymns: when you return, there are a ſufficient number of Mattreſſes or Quilts to lye upon; for they uſe no other ſort of Beds over all Aſia: only at Night you ſpread a Carpet upon a Quilt, and ſhut the Door. We ſaw not the Archbiſhop all that Evening, only at Church.

About Midnight all the Bells rang, and every body roſe to go to Church. I belieye it was more than uſual, becauſe it was Shrovetide; for both the Office and the Miſſa were both concluded by break of day. Between eight and nine in the Morning the Cloth was laid; before which time we ſaw abundance of the Neighbouring Country people, who brought Wine, Fruits, and other Proviſions, and preſented all to the Archbiſhop.

While we were at Breakfaſt news came that a certain Biſhop was dead, in his return to the Three Churches; whither he was ſent by the Patriarch to gather certain Duties due from the Villages. Immediately the Archbiſhop riſing from the Table with all his Aſſiſtants, and having made a Prayer for the Dead, ſent a Biſhop and ſix Monks to fetch the Corps; who returning a little after Midnight, the Body was preſently laid in the Church upon a Carpet ſpread upon the Ground, with the Face turn'd toward the Altar. In the mean time, a great number of Wax-candles were lighted, and all the reſt of the Night two monks watch'd by turns to Pray for the Dead. Early in the Morning the Archbiſhops, the Biſhops, and all in Religious Orders, ſaid the Office for the Dead, which laſted half an Hour; and at the end of the Maſ • they brought the Corps to the Altar, ſo that they made the Feet of the Corps to touch it. Having ſo done, they took off the Linnen Cloth that cover'd his Head, at which time the Archbiſhop anointed him in ſix places with the Holy Oyl, ſaying certain Prayers every time. Then they cover'd him again, and ſaid other Prayers which laſted half an Hour. Theſe Ceremonies perform'd, they carry'd the Corps out of the Church with Croſſes and Banners, and every one a Taper in his Hand. As the Corps paſs'd by, one of the Biſhops put a Paper in his right hand, containing theſe words, I came from the Father, and I return to the Father. Being brought to the Grave, upon a little Mountain near the Covent, and ſet down, they ſaid other Prayers which laſted a quarter of an hour. In the mean time a Biſhop going down into the Grave, took away all the Stones and made the place ſmooth, after▪ which the Corps was let down wrapt in a large Linnen Sheet. Then the Biſhop, according to ther cuſtom, rais'd his Head a little higher than his Body, turning his face to the Eaſt. Which being done, the Archbiſhop and Aſſiſtants took every one a handful of Earth, which the Archbiſhop bleſt, and giving it to the Biſhop, he ſtrew'd it over the Body. Then the Biſhop coming out again, the Grave was fill'd up.

From St. Stephen's there is a deſcent for a League together to Aras, by the ſide whereof you are to keep along till you come to Zulpha, where you come into the high Road again. There is another way quite over the Mountain, which is the nearer way by a League, but 'tis very troubleſom and toylſom, and therefore the leſs frequented.

But to return to the High Road from Naksivan; half a League from Naksivan you meet with a River which falls into Aras, which is to be croſs'd over a Stone-Bridge of 12 Arches, though there be but little Water, unleſs it be when the Snow melts, or the Rains fall. In a Meacow, next the Bridge, where we lodg'd one time that I travell'd that way, there is a Spring of luke warm Water, which will looſen the Belles of them that drink it. At this Bridge it is that the Toll-gatherer comes and takes his Duties, when the Caravan ſtays not at Naksivan. You muſt pay ten Abaſſi's for every Camel's Loading, or nine Livers, which is for the ſecuring the Highways. Theſe Duties are demanded in many places of Perſia without ſearching the Packs. The Governours alſo in their Provinces are made to anſwer for every Robbery committed: which makes it ſo ſafe travelling in Perſia, that you need not keep with the Caravan, unleſs you will your ſelf.

From this Bridge to Zulfa is but one days journey; which Town being altogether ruin'd, ſhews the reaſon wherefore the Caravan lodges upon the Bank of the River five hundred Paces on this ſide.

Zulfa, the ancient Habitation of the Armenians which Sha-Abas carried into Perſia, is a Town ſqueez'd between two Mountains, through which the Aras runs, leaving but little Land on either ſide. It carries no Boats till about two Leagues below, (for upward it will hardly bear a piece of Timber) and in regard the Country grows low and extends it ſelf into Plains, there is no fear of Rocks, the courſe of the Stream being very quiet. There was a fair Stone-Bridge, which Sha-Abas caus'd to be broken down, when he wholly deſtroy'd the Town, that it might be no harbour for the Turks. Neither by the Ruines, nor by its Situation, doth it appear to have been a City of any ancient Beauty; the Stones were clapt unskilfully together without Morter, ſo that the Houſes were more like Caves than Houſes. The North-Weſt ſide was moſt inhabited, there being nothing on the other ſide worth taking notice of. The Lands about Zulfa being very fertil, there are certain Armenian Families return'd, who live very quietly. Cogia Nazar, one of the chief Armenians that went out of Zulfa, growing rich by Trade, and being in great reputation with Sha-Abbas, and Sha-Sefi his Succeſſor, who made him Kelonter, or Chief Judge of the Armenian Nation, built two great Inns, for the Honour of his Country, in Zulfa, upon each ſide of the River one. He ſpent above an hundred thouſand Crowns, but dying left two remarkable Pieces of Work unfiniſh'd.

Half a League on this ſide Zulfa, before you croſs a Torrent that falls into Aras, you may take your choice of two ways to go to Tauris. The one upon the right hand, leading to the South Eaſt, which is the ordinary Road; the other upon the left hand, toward the North Eaſt, which we took eight or ten in company together on horſeback, the laſt time I went to Iſpahan. We left the Caravan, that takes the great Road, and never goes the other way, becauſe it is full of Rocks and Stones that ſpoil the hoofs of the Camels. However I was willing to ſee a new Country, which I ſhall deſcribe before I come to the great Road.

From the Torrent where we left the Caravan, we went forward, and lay at a Village not above a League and a half off.

The next day, after we had kept along by the Banks of the Aras for five or ſix Hours, we came to Aſtabat, which lyes a League from the River, where we ſtaid above two Days to divert our ſelves. This is but a little City, but a very neat one; where there are four Inns, and every Houſe has its Fountain. The great plenty of Water makes the City very fruitful in all things; more eſpecially in good Wine. This is the only Country in the World that produces the Ronas, for which there is a vaſt utterance all over Perſia and India. The Ronas is a Root that grows in the Earth like Liquorice, and is not much bigger. The uſe of it is to dye Red, and this is that Red which gives that beautiful tincture to all the Calicuts that come out of the Mogul's Country. Though the Roots which are pull'd out of the Earth are very long, yet they cut them into pieces not above as long as a Man's Hand, for the better accommodation of Carriage. It is a wonderful thing to behold at Ormus whole Caravans laden with this Ronas, which they Ship off from thence to the Indies.

The Root is full of Juyce, and yields a very high Tincture; for I remember that an Indian Veſſel that was laden with it, being caſt away in the Road of Ormus, where the Bags of Ron • s floated, the Sea look'd of a red colour for ſeveral days.

Departing from Aſtabat, it behov'd us to provide our ſelves with Straw and Barley for our Horſes, underſtanding that we ſhould meet with none all that days journey. From thence we travell'd upon a deſcent for an hour together to the River Aras, which we croſs'd in a Boat; and all the reſt of the day we travel'd through Mountains, over Torrents and Stones. That Evening we lay upon the Bank of a ſmall Stream.

The day following, after we had travel'd through a ſpacious Valley for two or three hours, we aſcended a high Mountain, at the top whereof we met with two or three pitiful Houſes, where we ſtopt that day.

The next, which was the fifth after, we left the Caravan, we travel'd upon a deſcent for two or three hours, till we came to a great Village neatly ſituated, where there grows excellent Fruit. There we repos'd for an hour or two; and from thence we came to a great Stone-Bridg on a River where there is no Water but when the Rains fall. It falls into the Lake Roumi, but the Water of the River is ſo ſowr and ill taſted, eſpecially when it is low, that it is not to be drunk. About a quarter of a League from the Bridge are three long Stones ſet in the Ground like Pillars: the Natives ſay that they were placed there for a Monument, in the ſame place where Darius the Son of Hyſtaſpes was elected King by the cunning of the Gentleman of his Horſe: from whence to Tauris is but half a League. The Mountains of the Medes which we croſs'd in this Road, and thoſe which run along toward the ancient Parthians, are the moſt fertil in all Perſia. They bear Corn and Fruit in abundance; for upon the high Mountains there are fair Plains ſow'd with Wheat, which are extraordinary fertil. The Springs which riſe there, and Rains which fall give a freſher beauty and a higher taſt to what grows there, more than in any other part of Perſia that wants Water; and the products of thoſe Fields are of a higher price.

Now for the great Road. The Caravan having croſs'd the Stream where we left it, lodges the next Night upon the Banks of Aras, over which it ferries the next Morning. It does not go thorough Zulfa, though it be ſo near it; becauſe that on the other ſide of the City, there are three Leagues of Way very bad and unfrequented. For which reaſon you muſt leave Zulfa on the right hand, which is not much out of the way. After two hours travel you go by a Bridge which is call'd Sugiac; after which you come upon Heaths encompaſs'd with high Rocks. All this days journey you meet with no Water, but only one little Fountain, and the Water is ſo bad that the Beaſts will hardly drink it.

The day following you travel through an even Country, but very barren: where you meet with nothing but a forlorn Inn; though it be a place where Coſt has been beſtow'd, and built all of Free-ſtone, that was fetch'd a great way off. The next Stage is Marante, famous for the Burying-place of Noah's Wife. The Town is not very big; reſembling rather a Thicket than a City: but the ſituation is very pleaſant, in the middle of a fertil Plain adorn'd with ſeveral well peopl'd Villages. This Plain does not extend above a League round about Marante, the Country beyond it being all barren. However it is not altogether unprofitable: for being a continual Heath, it affords feeding for the Camels, which are there bred for the Caravans. Which is the reaſon that there are ſo many Camel-Maſters at Sugiac and Marante, who furniſh great part of the Road. At Marante you muſt pay thirteen Abaſſi's, or four Crowns for every Camel's Load, for the ſecurity of the Road.

Leaving Marante, you lodge the next night a League from Sophiana in a buſhy Plain, where the Water is worth nothing; after you have travell'd a mix'd Country, barren enough, where you meet with but one Inn in a Valley: but it is a very fair one. Sophiana is an indifferent large City, which you cannot ſee till you come within it, by reaſon of the great number of Trees planted in the Streets and round about it, which makes it look rather like a Foreſt than a City.

The next day, which is uſually the tenth days journey from Erivan, the Caravan, having croſs'd fair, large and fertil Plains, arrives at Tauris. Thoſe Plains are water'd with ſeveral Streams that fall from the Median Mountains; but the Water is not all of the ſame goodneſs, for there is ſome which cannot be drunk.

In the mid-way between Sophiana and Tauris, lyes a Hill, from whence you have a proſpect over thoſe Plains, upon which the Army of Sultan Amurath Encamp'd, when he beſieg'd Tauris. The news coming to Sha-Sefi King of Perſia, that he had burnt it, and was marching further into the Country with a hundred thouſand Men, Let him come, ſaid he, without any diſturbance, I know how to make the Turks pay for their Invaſion without any great trouble. They were then not above fifteen days march from Iſpahan, when Sha-Sefi, turn'd the courſe of all the Streams both before and hehind, which only run from certain Springs, and are brought in Cutts or Chanels into the Inland-parts of Perſia, where there are no Rivers: By which means the whole Army of the Turks periſh'd for want of Water in thoſe vaſt unwater'd Countries where they had engag'd themſelves too far.

Tauris lyes in 83 Degrees, 30 Minutes of Longitude; and 40 Degrees, 15 Minutes of Latitude, in an open place where there is not a Tree to be ſeen; and environ'd with Mountains on every ſide, but only upon the Weſt. The further • Mountain is not above a League from the City; but there is one which almoſt touches it, being only ſeparated from it by the River. 'Tis a good Country, and fruitful in Corn; there is good Paſturage, and great ſtore of Pulſe. Some think that Tauris was the ancient Ecba • ane, the Metropolis of the Empire of the Medes. It is at this day a great City and well peopl'd, as being the Mart for Turkie, Muſcovy, the Indies, and Perſia, There are an infinite number of Merchants, and vaſt quantities of all ſorts▪ of Merchandize: particularly of Silk, which is brought out of the Province of Guilan, and other places. There is alſo a great Trade for Horſes, which are handſom and cheap. Wine, Aqua-vitae, and indeed all ſorts of Proviſions are cheap enough; and Money trolls about in that place more than in any other part of Aſia. Many Armenian Families have got great Eſtates there by Trade, and underſtand it better than the Perſians. A little River, the Water whereof is very good, runs through the middle of Tauris; it's call'd Scheinkaïe, over which there are three Bridges to croſs from one part of the City to the other.

The moſt part of the Buildings in Tauris are of Bricks bak'd in the Sun; the Houſes not being above one or two Stories high at moſt. The tops of the Houſes are terraſs'd; the Roofs within are vaulted, and plaiſter'd with Earth mix'd with chopt Straw, which they whiten afterwards with Lime. In the year 1638 the City was almoſt ruin'd by Sultan Amurath; but it is almoſt all rebuilt again. There are in it Bazars, or Market-houſes, which are well built, and many Inns very commodious, two Srories high. The faireſt is that of Mirza-Sadé Governour of the Province, who caus'd it to be built with a Market-houſe adjoyning, to which he has added a Moſquee and a Colledge, with good Revenues.

The great Trade of Tauris renders it renown'd over all Aſia: for it has a continual Trafſick with Turks, Arabians, Georgians, Mengrelians, Perſians, Indians, Muſcovites, and Tartars. The Bazars or Market-houſes, which are cover'd, are always full of Goods: for there are ſome which are peculiar to the Handicraft-Trades; the moſt part whereof are Smiths, ſuch as make Saws, Axes, Files, and Steels to ſtrike Fire, with Tobacco-ſtoppers belonging to them. Some there are that make Pad-locks: for the Eaſtern People faſten their Doors only with wooden Bolts. There are alſo Turners, that furniſh the neighbouring Parts with Spinning-Wheels and Cradles: and ſome Goldſmiths, that make trifles of Silver. But there is abundance of Silk-weavers that are Artiſts, and work very neatly; and indeed there are more of thoſe than of any other Trade. Here it is that they dreſs the greateſt part of the Shagrin-Skins that are vended ſo plentifully all over Perſia; for there are none unleſs it be the Country-people, but wear Boots or Shooes of Shagrin-Leather. This Leather is made either of the Hides of Horſes, Aſſes, or Mules▪ and only of the hinder part of the Hide: but the Aſſes Hide has the beſt grain.

There are to be ſeen at Tauris, Ruines of the ſtately Edifices round about the great Piazza, and the neighbouring parts: they have alſo let run to ruine four or five Moſquees of a prodigious height and bigneſs. The moſt magnificent and the biggeſt ſtands as you go out of the Town, in the Road to Iſpahan. The Perſians will not come near it, but look upon it as defil'd, and a Moſquee of Hereticks, in regard it was built by the Sounnis, or the followers of Omar. 'Tis a vaſt Structure fairly built, the Front whereof is fifty Paces broad, with an aſcent of eight Steps. It is lin'd without with Brick-work varniſh'd with different Colours; and adorn'd within with very fair Painting A l'antique, and abundance of Cifers and Arabian Letters in Gold and Azure. Upon two ſides of the Fore-front are rear'd two Minarets or Towers very high, but not very wide, yet with Stairs to go up to the top. They are lin'd with varniſh'd Brick-work, which is the uſual Ornament of the Perſian Buildings: and at the top ſtand two Cupola's, form'd like the Turbants which the Perſians wear. The Gate of the Moſquee is not above four Foot wide, cut out of a great tranſparent white Stone, four and twenty Foot high, and twelve broad. Entring at the Door of the Moſquee, you come into a ſpacious Duomo, thirty ſix Paces in Diameter, rais'd upon twelve Pillars within, and ſupported by ſixteen without, which Pillars are very high, and ſix Foot ſquare. Below there is a Baluſtrade or Rails that run round about the Building, with Doors to go from one ſide to the other: and the Foot of every Pillar, which is of white Marble, is hollow'd into little Niches equal with the Floor, where the People put their Shooes, when they go farther to their Devotions. The inſide of the Walls is varniſh'd in Squares of ſeveral Colours, with Flowers, Cifers, and Arabian Letters intermix'd, and wrought in Emboſs'd work, ſo well painted, ſo well gilded that it ſeems to be but one piece of Work, cut out with a pair of Sciſſars. From this Duomo you paſs to another leſſer, but more beautiful in its kind. The lower pa • t is of tranſparent white Stone, of the ſame nature with that in the Front, cut in great Panes like a Door that never opens. This Duomo has no Pillars, but eight Foot high, it is all of white Marble, where are to be ſeen Stones of a prodigious length and bredth: The inſide of the Vault is a violet Enamel, painted with all ſorts of Flowers in Flat-work, but the outſide of both the Duomo's is cover'd with varniſh'd Brick-work, and Flowers emboſs'd A la Moreſque. Upon the firſt the Flowers are black upon green; upon the ſecond, white Stars upon black: which diverſity of Colours is very pleaſing to the Eye.

Near the Door out of which you enter into the leſſer Duomo, on the left hand, ſtands a Chair of Walnut-tree curiouſly-carv'd, and faſten'd to the Wall; it ſtands upon a Platform rais'd ſix ſteps high, without any Canopy. On the right hand ſtands another Chair of the ſame Wood, and an exquiſite piece of Workmanſhip; with a kind of State over it of the ſame Wood, faſten'd to the Wall. There is a little Rail about it; and the Platform is four ſteps high. On the South-ſide of the Moſquee there are two white tranſparent Stones, which when the Sun ſhines upon them look red: And ſometimes after the Sun is ſet, you may read at thoſe Stones by the reflection of the Sun-beams.

Juſt againſt the Moſquee on the other ſide is another Front, which is the only Remain of a ruin'd Building. It was the abode of the Sheck Iman, or the Chief Prieſt. There had been large Baths which belonged to it, but they are all deſtroy'd; ſome others there were of leſs note, which are not lookt aſter.

In the great Piazza of Tauris and in the parts adjoyning, ſtands a ſair Moſquee, a Colledge, and a Caſtle, which fall to decay; theſe Buildings being forſaken; by reaſon they were made uſe of by the Sounni's, which were followers of Omar. Near the ſame Church is a ruin'd Church of the Armenians, whither they ſay St. Helena ſent the true Croſs. There is another Moſquee, which was formerly a Church dedicated to St. John Baptiſt, where they ſay one of his Hands was preſerv'd a long time.

The Capuchins have a very convenient Houſe at Tauris; for Mirza-Ibrahim Governour of the Province, whoſe credit is equal to the Kan of Tauris, which is the chiefeſt Command in Perſia, favours him very much with his protection. This Governour has made himſelf very conſiderable at Court▪ and very much reſpected by the King for his indefatigable pains, and his extraordinary agility in augmenting the King's Revenue: having found out ſuch ways for that purpoſe, as never entred into the thoughts of any that preceded him in the the ſame Employment. He is very curious to learn all the Noble Sciences, which is a quality very rare among the Perſians: He alſo takes great delight in the Mathematicks and Philoſophy, diſcourſing often with Gabriel de Chinon, Governour of the Capuchins Covent in Tauris. But the great deſire which Mirza-Ibrahim had, to have his two Sons taught by the ſaid Gabriel, was the chief motive that made him ſo ſavourable to that Covent. He bought the Friers a place to build their Houſe, and liberally furniſh'd them for the Expence of the Work.

When the Sun ſets and riſes, there are a certain Company of People, who are oblig'd to make a hideous noiſe with Drums and Trumpets in the Meidan, or great Piazza of the City. They ſtand upon one ſide of the Piazza in a Gallery ſomewhat rais'd, which is a Cuſtom obſerv'd in all the Cities under the Perſian Government.

As you go out of Tauris upon the North-ſide, there is a Mountain cloſe by, there being only the River between it. The name of it is Einali-Zeinali, and formerly there ſtood upon the top of it a fair Hermitage of the Armenians, which the Mahometans have converted into a Moſquee. At the bottom of the Mountain ſtands a Fortreſs and a Moſquee, which they let go to ruine, becauſe they were built by the Ottomans. A little farther upon the brink of the Precipice ſtands a Monaſtery, near to which are two Caves, where are certain Sepulchers and Marble Pillars lying along up • n the Ground. There are alſo in the Moſquee certain Tombs of the ancient Kings of the Medes, the Remains whereof ſhew that the Work was very Excellent.

Upon the Road from Tauris to Iſpahan, about half a League from the utmoſt Gardens, between ſeveral knaps of the Mountain which you leave upon the right hand, upon the top of the higheſt of all, where there never was any Water, and where it is impoſſible to bring any, appears a Bridge Fifty paces long, the Arches whereof are very fair ones, but it falls to decay. It was a Mollah that built it, out of what deſign no perſon new: nor can you come to Tauris upon that ſide, but you mu • t ſee that Bridge, becauſe there is no other way, there being nothing but Water and Precipices on either hand. Afterwards he confeſs'd that he built it out of meer Vanity, knowing that Sha-Abbas the firſt of that name, was to come to Tauris. The King indeed came ſome time after, and ſeeing an unprofitable Bridge upon the top of a Mountain, he demanded who built it, and what was his deſign. To whom the Mollah return'd this anſwer, Sir, ſaid he, I built that Bridge, that when your Majeſty •• me to Tauris, you might inform your ſelf from the mouth of him that built it. By which it appear'd that the Mollah had no other ambition than to oblige the King to ſpeak to him.

A League from Tauris to the Weſt, in the middle of a field, ſtands a great Brick Tower, call'd Kanhazun. It is about fifty Paces in Diameter, and though it be half ruin'd, yet it is very high. It ſe • ms to have been the Dungeon of ſome Caſtle, there being very high Walls round about it; which though they be but of Earth, nevertheleſs appear to be very ancient. It is not certainly known who built this Tower, but the Arabian Letters upon the Gate afford us ſome reaſon to conclude that it was a Mahometan ſtructure. In the year 1651 there happen'd a terrible Earthquake in Tauris and the parts thereabouts, by which many houſes were overturn'd, and this Tower then cleaving from the top to the bottom, a good part of it fell down, and fill'd up the hollow within-ſide.

Beſides the little River that runs by Tauris, there is another bigger to be croſs'd about half a League from the • ity, over which there is a very fair Stone-Bridge: Near to it ſtands a Sepulcher, cover'd with a little Duomo, where the Perſians ſay that the Siſter of Iman Riza lyes interr'd; and they have it in great veneration. The River that runs under the Bridge comes from the Mountains of the North, and falls into the Lake Roumi, thirteen or fourteen Leagues from Tauris. They call it Aggiſou, or Bitter▪water; for the Water is very bad, and without any Fiſh. The Lake which is fifteen Leagues in compaſs, has the ſame quality, the Water being blackiſh: the Fiſh that happen into it out of other Rivers that fall into it, preſently become blind, and in a ſhort while are found dead by the Shoar. This Lake takes its name from a Province and a little City, which are both call'd Roumi, being not above Eleven Leagues from Tauris.

In the middle of the Lake, upon the way that leads to a little City call'd Tokoriam, there is a little Hill that riſes inſenſibly, the aſcent whereof is very ſmooth, and out of it there riſe many little Springs. The farther they run from the Head, the wider grow the Streams. And the Earth which they water is of two diſtinct qualities; the firſt Earth that is digg'd ſerves to make Lime: the next to that is a hollow ſpungy Stone, th • is good for nothing: but under that again is a white tranſparent Stone, which you may ſee through as through Glaſs, which being ſmooth and poliſh'd ſerves to adorn the Houſes. This ſtone is only a congelation of the Waters of theſe Streams; for ſometimes you ſhall meet with creeping Animals congeal'd within. The Governour of the Province ſent one piece to Sha-Abbas, as a great preſent, wherein there was a Lizard congeal'd of a Foot long. He that preſented▪ it to the Governour had Twenty Tomans, or three hundred Crowns; afterwards I offer'd a thouſand for the ſame Piece. In ſome parts of the Province of Mazandran, where the Enxin Sea ſtretches fartheſt into the Perſian Territories, theſe congeal'd Stones are to be found, but not ſo frequently as near the lake Roumi; and you ſhall many times find pieces of Wood and Worms congeal'd in the Stones. I brought away a Camels loading of theſe Stones; and left them at Marſeilles; till I could find what uſe to put them to.

CHAP. V. A Continuation of the Conſtantinopolitan Road from Tauris to Iſpahan, through Ardevil and Casbin.

FRom Tauris to Ispahan the Caravan makes it generally twenty-four days journey.

The firſt day you croſs over dry Mountains, and four Leagues from Tauris you meet with one of the faireſt Inns in Perſia. This Inn Sha-Sefi caus'd to be built; it is very convenient, and large enough to lodge a hundred perſons with their Horſes. Over all Perſia, eſpecially from Tauris to Ispahan, and from thence to Ormus, you meet every day with Inns at an equal diſtance.

The next day you deſcend a Mountain, in very rugged and narrow way. At the foot of this Mountain there are two ways for the Merchants to chooſe that will go to Iſpahan. They that will go the ordinary road and the direct way through Kom and Kachan, leave a Lake upon the left hand that parts the two Roads; and they that will go through Ardevil and Casbin, two other good Cities, leave the Lake upon the right hand, and coaſt along by the ſide of the Mountain. From Tauris to Ardevil it is not above a dozen Leagues; and having paſs'd the Lake, the Country is very good: Which is the Road I intend to deſcribe firſt.

Ardevil being at ſo ſmall a diſtance from Tauris, lyes almoſt in the ſame Degrees and Minutes of Longitude and Latitude. This City is famous, as well for being the firſt Market of Silks that come from Guilan, from which it is not far off; as alſo for the Sepulcher of Sha-Sefi, the firſt of that name, King of Perſia. The avenues to it are very pleaſant, being as it were Alleys of great Trees, which are call'd Tchinar, planted in a ſtreight line, at a due diſtance▪ It is of a moderate bigneſs, and ſeated in a lovely opening of the Mountains. The next to the Cities, which is call'd Sevalan, is the higheſt in all Media. The Houſes of Ardevil are built of Earth, as are moſt of the Houſes in the City of Perſia: but the Streets are very uneven, dirty, and narrow. There is but one which is handſom, at the end whereof is built the Armenian Church. A little River runs through the middle of the City, which deſcending from the neighbouring Mountains runs from Eaſt to Weſt. It is by Induſtry brought into many Cuts to water the Gardens, and in many places there are very fair Trees planted, which are very delightful to the Sight. The Meydan or Market-place is a very great one; more long than round; where ſtands a very fine Inn, upon one ſide, which the Kan caus'd to be built. There are ſeveral others in ſeveral parts of the City, which have the Proſpect over ſeveral lovely Gardens, eſpecially that which belongs to the King; to which you go through a long and ſtately Walk of four rows of Trees, at the end whereof ſtands a large Gate that gives you entrance. Though the Country about Ardevils be proper to bear Vines, yet there are none thereabouts; nor is there any Wine made till about four or five Leagues from the City. The Armenians that dwell in the City are very well ſtor'd with it; though there be no place in all Perſia, where there is ſo much Caution to be us'd, either as to the Importing it, or the Drinking it; both which muſt be done very privately: Which proceeds from the Mahometan Superſtition; the Perſians having ſo peculiar a veneration for that place, that they believe it a ſin to ſuffer Wine to be publickly drank therein.

The people come in Pilgrimage from all parts of Perſia to the Sepulcher of Sha-Sefi; which together with the vaſt Trade of Silk, makes Ardevil one of the moſt conſiderable Cities of all Perſia. There are ſeveral other Buildings added to the Moſquee wherein he lyes interr'd; the Entry whereof faces, the Meydan, to which it is joyn'd upon the South-ſide with a large Portal. The Gate is chain'd with Chains faſten'd a croſs with great Rings; which if any Criminal Offender can but touch, and enter into the firſt Court, he is ſafe; for no perſon can apprehend him. This is a large Court, yet more in length than breadth, without the Wall whereof that looks upon the Market-place, ſeveral Shops are built for Merchants and Tradeſmen.

Out of this Court you paſs into another which is leſs, and pav'd with broad Stones, with a Rivulet running through the middle. The Entry into it is through a Door, fortifi'd with Iron Chains like the former▪ and is made at a corner of the great Court upon the left hand. It brings you preſently under a Portico▪ where there are fair Balconies rais'd after the faſhion of the Country▪ Thoſe Balconies are full of ſeveral People; either Pilgrims, or perſons whoſe Crimes conſtrain them thither for Sanctuary. In that place you muſt leave your Stick and your Sword, before you go any farther; and give ſomething beſides to a Moullah, who is always attending there with Books.

In that ſecond Court through which the Rivulet glides, on the one ſide are Baths, on the other Granaries for Rice and Corn; and upon the left hand, at the end of the ſame Court, there is a little Door which brings you to a place where the Royal Alms are diſtributed to the Poor, Morning and Evening; being juſt againſt the King's Kitchin. This Gate is cover'd with Plates of Silver; and in the Kitchin there are about thirty Ovens contriv'd in the Wall, with as many great Caldrons to dreſs Pilaw and other Food, as well for the Poor as for the Officers of the Moſquee. While theſe Alms are diſtributing, the Maſter-Cook, who commands all the reſt, ſets upon a Chair cover'd with Plates of Silver, and ſees that every thing be done in order. He ſees to the meaſuring out the Rice every day for the Kettles, and cauſes the Victuals to be divided in his own ſight: For there is an excellent Oeconomy in the King's Houſe.

At the end of the Portico beyond the firſt Court there are two Gates, one beyond another, both cover'd with Plates of Silver, between thoſe two Gates on the right hand appears a little Moſquee, where are the Tombs of ſeveral Perſian Princes of the Blood Royal. You muſt have a great care not to tread upon the Threſholds of the Gates; for it is a Crime not to be expiated without a ſevere Puniſhment. From hence through a little Ile, you come into the Body of the Church, richly hung with Tapeſtry, and ſet about with high Desks, where lye a great many Books, wherein the Moullahs, or Doctors of the Law read continually, having Stipends to Officiate in the Moſquee. At the end of the Body of the Moſquee, is a little Octagonal Monument, like the Choir of a Church, in the midſt whereof ſtands the Monument of Sha-Sefi. It is only of Wood, but curiouſly carv'd and inlaid. It exceeds not the height of a Man of an ordinary ſtature▪ and ſeems like a great Cheſt, having four Apples of Gold ſet up at each corner. It is cover'd with a Crimſon Satin purfl'd with Gold; and all the other Tombs that are by it, are cover'd with Silks as rich. As well in the Choir as in the Body of the Church, there are abundance of Lamps, ſome of Gold, ſome of Silver; but the biggeſt of all is of Silver; gilded and vermilion'd, and neatly engrav'd. There are alſo ſix great Branches of a curious ſort of Wood, cover'd with Silver, with great Wax Candles in them, which are never lighted but at their great Feſtivals.

From the Duomo where ſtands the Tomb of Sha-Sefi, you go under a little Vault, which encloſes another Monument of another King of Perſia, whoſe Name I could not learn. It looks like another great Cheſt, curiouſly wrought, and cover'd with Satin. The Roof of the Moſquee is adorn'd within with a Painting of Gold and Azure, a la Moreſque; on the out-ſide, with a fair Varniſh of ſeveral Colours, like the ſtately Moſquee at Tauris.

In the adjacent Parts round about Ardeüil are ſeveral Monuments worth a Man's ſight, being very ancient; and ſome which are ruin'd, ſhew by what remains the care wich they took to enrich them with curious Workmanſhip. A quarter of a League from the City ſtands a Moſquee, in which are the Tombs of the Father and Mother of Sha-Sefi. It is a fair Structure, with Gardens and Courts, in one of which there is a very clear Fountain where they keep Fiſh.

Ardeüil is not only famous, as I have ſaid already, for the Royal Sepulchers which are in it, and for the Pilgrimages which have been made to it from all parts of Perſia; but the numerous Caravans of Silk, which ſometimes conſiſt of eight or nine hundred Camels, add very much to its Grandeur. For being near to Guilan and Shamaqui, from whence thoſe vaſt quantities of Silk come; and for that the Road from both thoſe places, to Conſtantinople and Smyrna, lyes through this City, there is a continual confluence of Merchants, and all ſorts of Merchandizes are here to be had as well as at Tauris.

From Ardeüil to Casbin you travel through a good Country; for every three of four Leagues you meet with little Rivers that fall from the Northern Mountains, and water the Earth. The Caravan is uſually five days between Ardeüil and Arion, between Arion and Taron two, between Taron and Casbin two more. Half a League on this ſide Taron you muſt croſs a great River over a ſtone Bridge, and half a League beyond you come to Kalkal.

Arion is a little City, Taron and Kalkal are two great Towns; and there are but theſe three places in all Perſia where there grow any Olives, or that they make any Oyl. Leaving Kalkal, you travel over a Plain • or three hours, at the end whereof is a Way which you you cannot get over in leſs than four hours. The way is ſo bad that the Horſes and Mules can hardly get up; but for the Camels, they muſt take the lower Road, which is alſo very tedious, and full of Stones, which the Torrents tumble down, and it is three or four Leagues about. When you are up, the Country is level, and you have not above three Leagues to Casbin.

Casbin lyes in 87 Degrees and 30 Minutes of Longitude, and 36 Degrees and 15 Minutes of Latitude. It is a great City, the Houſes whereof are low and ill built; except ſeven or eight, which are next to the King's Gardens. It has no Walls, and indeed the beſt half of the City is in Gardens. There are three Inns, with Market-places round about; one of the three being large and commodious. It is inhabited altogether by Mahometans; or if there be any Chriſtians, they are very few.

The Soil about Casbin produces Piſtaches. The Tree that bears that is never bigger than a Walnut-tree of ten or twelve years old. The great quantity of Piſtaches that are exported out of Perſia come from Malavert, a little City twelve Leagues from Iſpahan, toward the Eaſt. Theſe are the beſt Piſtaches in the World, and the Country being of a large extent, produces them in ſuch abundance, that it furniſhes all Perſia and the Indies.

Leaving Casbin, you come to a little Village where there is but one Inn; and you travel that day ſix Leagues through Countries fertil enough, and well water'd.

The next day you travel through a good Country, and in nine or ten hours you come to Denghé. This is a great Village at the foot of a Hill, through which there runs a fair River. It abounds with excellent both White and Claret Wine, where the Travellers take care to repleniſh their Bottles. But generally they never lye here; being deſirous to go a League farther, for a good Inn's ſake, which makes it a handſom Stage.

At this Town of Denghé it is where the two Roads from Tauris to Iſpahan meet: the firſt, through Ardeüil and Casbin, I have already deſcrib'd. Hither alſo come the Caravans that go for the Indies through Meſhéhead and Candahar, and where they leave Iſpahan Road to take the left-hand Way, which carries them Eaſtward.

CHAP. VI. The ordinary Road from Tauris to Iſpahan. through Zangan, Sultanie, and other places.

VVE muſt now return again to the Lake ſix Leagues beyond Tauris, where they that will take the ordinary ſhort way through Zangan and Sultanie, leave the left hand way of Ardeüil and Casbin. This Lake is uſually full of large red Ducks, which are very good Meat.

From thence, after twelve or thirteen hours travel, in which time you meet with three Inns, you come to Karaſhima, a large Town in a deep Valley, that ſeems to be well manur'd. There is in it only a ſmall Inn built of Earth, the Doors whereof • re ſo low, that the People are forc'd to creep upon their knees to get in.

The next day you come to another large Village call'd Turcoma, where the Soil is fertil, though it be very cold. There are ſeveral Caravanſera's built like a long Alley cover'd, which are only of Earth, the Men lying at one end, and the Horſes at another.

The next day you travel over an uneven and deſert Country, and in eight hours time you come to Miana, a little City ſituated in a Marſh, where you pay a Toll for Guarding the Highways. In this City is one of the faireſt Inns in all Perſia.

Two hours after you leave Miana, you muſt croſs a River, over a fair Bridge which runs to decay; the Arches whereof are hollow within; it is built of Brick and Free-ſtone, being near as long as Pont neuf in Paris. This Bridge ſtands almoſt at the foot of a Mountain call'd Kaplenton. Sha-Abas caus'd all the way to be Pav'd, becauſe the Land is ſo fat and ſloughy, that when it thaws, or that the leaſt Rain falls, it is impoſſible for the Caravan to paſs. Beſides, there are a ſort of Camels in Perſia, that when it comes to rain in a deep Soil, are not able to keep their Legs: nay through the weight of the Burthens which they carry, their very Qua • ters will rive from their Shoulders, and their Bellies will burſt. So that before the way was pav'd, they were forc'd to ſpread Carpets in the moſt ſlippery ways where thoſe Camels were to paſs: which muſt be ſtill done in ſome places, where the Pavement is worn away.

At the lower part of the deſcent toward Iſpahan, upon the knap of a Hill which ſtands by it ſelf, appears an old forſak'n Fortreſs: it is near the Highway, and a River, which falls into the Caſpian Sea, after it has croſs'd the Province of Guilan, where it is cut into ſeveral Chanels. But generally the Corn and Fruits which grow in Perſia by the help of Water forc'd into Chanels, are of little eſteem, and much cheaper than thoſe that grow in the Provinces whoſe Fertility is not Artificial. Moreover, that ſort of forc'd Grain will not keep above a Year; and if you keep it longer, it breeds a Vermin that eats it. 'Tis the ſame thing if the Corn be ground; and more than that, there breeds a Worm in the Flower, that makes it ſo bitter that 'tis impoſſible to eat it.

On this ſide the Mountain Kaplenton appear at a diſtance two others very high, one toward the North call'd Saveland, another toward the South call'd Sehand: there is a third, which cannot be ſeen in Iſpahan-Road, being two far out of the way, near the City of Hamadan. Theſe three Mountains are full of Springs, from whence moſt of the Streams do fall that water Perſia: And the Perſians do ſay, that formerly there were many more of theſe Springs, but that about a hundred Years ago ſeveral of them have been dry'd up, or otherwiſe no body can tell what is become of them.

There are ſeveral Villages near the Mountain that pay nothing to the King, but are oblig'd to ſend him a certain quantity of Rice and Butter, for the uſe of the Moſquee at Ardeüil. They have alſo one great Priviledge, That if a Man commits a Murther, and flyes to any of theſe Villages, he cannot be apprehended, nor can the King himſelf puniſh him.

Leaving the River that runs at the foot of the Mountain Kaplenton, you come to a fair Inn call'd Tſhamalava, built ſome years ago: and for thirteen hours after▪ travelling over a very barren Country, you meet with another Inn, which is call'd Sartcham, ſtanding in a very deſert place: which makes the Raders, that lye there to ſecure the Highways, very inſolent, finding themſelves ſo far from any Towns or Villages.

From Sartcham you come to a River, by the Banks whereof you travel a good while, till you come to an Inn which is call'd Digbé, near a large Village. The Structure is very handſom, the lower part being of Free-ſtone undulated with red and white, and very hard.

The next day you travel a very uneven Country, till you fall into a deep Valley, at the end whereof you meet with Zangan, a great Town and ill built. However, it has a very fair Inn, which when I went laſt to Iſpahan was ſo full, that I had like to have lain abroad in the Rain, but for the Courteſie of two Armenians. From Zangan you go to an Inn, where you muſt pay the Duties due to the Kan of Sultanie.

Sultanie is a very large City, which you leave half a Mile from the Road, near to a Mountain. Formerly it had in it very beautiful Moſquees, as may be eaſily conjectur'd by the Ruines that remain. Many Chriſtian Churches alſo were converted into Moſquees; and if you will believe the Armenians, they will tell you, that there were in Sultanie near eight hundred Churches and Chapels.

Three Leagues from Sultanie ſtands an Inn, and a League farther a great Town call'd Ija, where there is another very commodious Inn, and moſt excellent Wine.

From thence you go to Habar, an ancient City and of a large extent, but very much ruin'd, inhabited by Armenians for the moſt part: Here, for the good Wines ſake the Travellers ſtay to recruit their Bottles.

From Habar, after ſeven hours travel you come to a Village call'd Partin. From Zangan to Partin you reach in two days. It ſtands in a fertil Plain, where there are ſeveral other Villages. It is not above three Leagues broad, being enclos'd on each ſide, to the Eaſt and Weſt, with a row of high Mountains.

Having paſs'd this Plain, you come to a barren Country and ill inhabited, which laſts all the day, till you come to Saxava. You paſs by the Ruines of a Village, where there are but two Houſes ſtanding, with the Tower of a Moſquee, which is very high and ſlender. Then you come to a Mud-wall'd-Inn, built ſome few years ſince; and near to that a Caſtle call'd Khiara, upon the peek of a Hill, but very ill built.

Sexava is a little City in a Soil that bears excellent Nuts. The Inns that are there being built of Earth, and being but little, are very handſom and covenient, their number ſupplying the defect of their ſmalneſs.

From Sexava, after ſeven hours travel, you come to a great Inn, call'd Idgloup, which was formerly a nobler place than now it is, ſtanding alone in a Field. Three Leagues from thence you meet with another ſpacious Inn, call'd Cochkeria; and four hours farther you come to the Inn Denghé, where the two Roads meet which I ſpake of in the foregoing Chapter.

From Denghé to Kom are three days journey, over a barren, dry, and deſert Country, where there is no Water but Ciſtern-water, except in ſome very few places, where it is very good. Four Leagues from Denghé is a fair Inn; and three Leagues farther ſtands another, about a Mile from a Village to the South, where there grows excellent good Wine, white and red. From this laſt Inn to Sava is not above three hours travel with the Caravan.

Sava is a good City in a fertil Plain, where there are ſeveral Villages. The greateſt Trade of the Town is in little grey Lamb-skins, the curl whereof is very neat, of which they make Furrs. Two or three Leagues beyond Sava the Country is very well manur'd, and after you have forded a River half a League from the City, after two hours travel you come to one of the faireſt Inns in all Perſia, which was finiſh'd when I went laſt to Iſpahan. From thence to Kom it is about ſeven or eight hoúrs journey, through a dry and ſandy Road: but half a League on this ſide Kom the Land is very good and fruitful.

Kom is one of the great Cities of Perſia, in a fat Country abounding in Rice. There grow alſo excellent Fruits, particularly large and excellent Granates. The Walls are only of earth, with little Towers cloſe one to another; and the Houſes being only of Earth, are never the hand ſomer withinſide. At the entry into the Town, you muſt croſs a River, over a ſtone Bridge, and then turning to the right hand over a fair Key, you come to an Inn very well built and very convenient.

That which is moſt remarkable in Kom is a large Moſquee, no leſs in veneration among the Perſians, than the Moſquee of Ardeüil. There it is that you may ſee the Sepulchers of Sha-Sefi and Sha-Abas the Second; as alſo the Tomb of Sidi-Fatima, the Daughter of Iman-Hocen, who was the Son of Haly and Fatima-Zuhra the Daughter of Mahomet. The great Gate of the Moſquee anſwers to a Piazza more long than broad, where ſtands an Inn and certain Shops, which without-ſide are ſomewhat beautiful. One of the ſides of the Piazza is clos'd up with a low Wall, over which appears the Shore, and a River which you croſs at the end of the Piazza. Over the great Portal of the Moſquee ſtands an Inſcription, in Letters of Gold, in the praiſe of Sha-Abas the Second. The firſt place that you enter into is a Court of more length than breadth, which may be term'd a Garden, in regard that on each ſide of the Alley in the middle, which is pav'd, there are ſeveral ſquare Beds of Flowers, yellow Jaſmin, and other Plants; which are rail'd in by a Rail that runs all the length of the Alley on each ſide. It is not an eaſie thing for the Chriſtians to get in to this Court, eſpecially ſuch whoſe Habits and Aſpect they do not like: But as I cloth'd and carry'd my ſelf, I never was deny'd entrance into any place either in Perſia or India.

In this firſt Court on the left hand as you enter, are little Chambers, where they that receive the Alms, which by the Foundation of the Moſquee are to be diſtributed every day, come and eat their proportion, and then go their ways. Thoſe Chambers ſerve as an Aſylum to thoſe that cannot pay their Debts, as at the Moſquee of Ardeüil. Neither are theſe Priviledg'd places like ours, where they that retire muſt live at their own Charge: For in Perſia they are ſed at the expence of the Moſquee; and being in that manner freed from Care, their Friends more eaſily bring their Creditors to Compoſition.

Out of the firſt Court you paſs into a ſecond, which is larger, and all pav'd; and from that into a third, which is ſquare, and rais'd like a Terraſs. You enter into it through a large Gate, at the end of an open Paſſage, where ſtand the Lodgings of the Moullah's.

Out of that Court by an aſcent of Brickwork of ten or twelve Steps, you enter into a fair Court, which is alſo rais'd like a Terraſs; in the midſt whereof is a fair Fountain. It is continually fill'd by little Pipes of Water which run into it, and is empty'd by others that carry the Water into ſeveral parts of the whole Encloſure. There are ſome Buildings in this Court, but one of the ſides of it is taken up with the Front of the Moſquee, which is no diſpleaſing Structure. There are three large Gates belong to it, very well expanded, according to the mode of the Country; with a Brick-wall before, about the height of a Man, with Holes in it for Light, made like a Lozange. The Threſhold of the middle Gate is Cover'd with a plate of Silver; and between theſe three Gates and that of the Duomo, are ſeveral Doctors that hold Books in their hands, and read perpetually.

This Moſquee is Octagonal, and at every angle is a ſmall wooden Door of Walnuttree, varniſh'd with grey and yellow. The Tomb of Sidi-Fatima is at the farther part of the Moſquee, there being only room for one Man to paſs between the Wall and the Tomb. It is encompaſs'd with a large Silver Grate, ſixteen Foot ſquare; the Bars whereof are round, and knob'd in thoſe places where they croſs each other; it is lighted by ſeveral Lamps of Gold and Silver: which altogether is very pleaſing to the Eye. The inſide of the Moſquee, to the elevation of the Angles that ſupport the Duomo, is compos'd of ſquare Tiles varniſh'd over with divers Colours; and the Cupola of the Duomo, as alſo the Vault of the Portico of the Moſquee, is a Moreſco piece of Painting in Or and Azure. Upon each ſide of the Moſquee, and near the ſide where the Tomb of Sidi-Fatima ſtands, appears a great Hall, where the Royal Alms are diſtributed to the Poor, which conſiſt of Pilaw and other diet, very well dreſt. From this Tomb you turn to the left hand toward an Aſcent, diſtant five and twenty or thirty Paces; and at the top of this Aſcent is a Door, over which there is an Inſcription in Honour of Sha-Abas the Second. The Door being open'd, ſhews you the place where the Body of that King repoſes: and through another Door with a Grate in it, you may diſcover, under a ſmall Duomo, the Tomb of Sha-Sefi his Father; which is cover'd with a Carpet of Cloth of Gold. They were continually at work upon the Tomb of Sha-Abas, which they ſaid, they would make very famous.

I had not been two hours in Kom, but a multitude of People ran by the Inn Gate, all in extraordinary haſt. Asking what the matter was, they anſwer'd me, that it had been a day long deſign'd for the two Prophets to fight. Thereupon I went to the Piazza, which was ſo crowded, that I had much ado to get to ſee. In the firſt place a ſufficient number of Tumblers and Puppet players, divided into two Bands, kept the middle of the Piazza, and made a ſufficient Ring for the Combat. Each Band held a Bull by the Horns, one of which they call'd Mahomet, and the other Haly: and whether it where by accident, or by the cunning of the Bull-Maſters, after an obſtinate Combat, wherein the Beaſts foam'd again with heat and rage; Mahomet at length quit the Field, and yielded Haly the Victory. Then all the People ſhouted for joy, and all the Piazza was fill'd with the noiſe of Flutes and Hautboys; and every one coming as if it were to adore Haly, cry'd out, Behold the Works of God, that Haly has made! At length they bring the Bull Haly under a Gate, with his Head turn'd toward the People; where after they have rub'd him to refreſh him, after a Combat ſo courageouſly maintain'd, every one ſends him Preſents, which are all the Tumblers profit. The Kan or Governour of Kom, who was preſent with a hundred Horſes richly trap'd to behold the Sight, ſent the Bull a Preſent of 50 Tomans, or 750 Crowns. They who accompany'd him, and the chief Inhabitants of Kom, gave him ſome a Garment, others a Girdle. Neither did the meaneſt of the People ſpare to ſend or carry him Fruits, or other things, according to their abilities.

The Kan was a Lord who was very civil, and there was no Stranger that did not commend his behaviour, in regard he was ſo obliging.

So ſoon as I came to the place, whether it was that he perceiv'd me with a Dutchman that I had brought along from Conſtantinople, or whether any one had inform'd him that there were Strangers near him, he ſent for us, and after he had ask'd us ſome Queſtions concerning the occaſion of our Travelling, he ſent for a Seat and caus'd us to ſit down. Then he ask'd us whence we came, and what we did at Iſpahan; to which when we had anſwer'd him, that we went to wait upon the King, he approved our Intention, complaining that we had not given him advice of our Arrival. In the Evening he ſent us ſeveral Delicacies, among the reſt, ſix fair Melons, and four Bottles of excellent Wine.

He appear'd to me ſo brave and generous a Perſon, that I was very much troubled afterwards for his being in dis▪favour with the King, and his death, which enſu'd. For this Kan finding the Walls of the City, which were only of Earth, and the Bridge over the River to be out of repair, without writing to the King, of his own head, laid a ſlight Impoſition upon every Basket of Fruit that was brought into the City. Now there are in all the Cities of Perſia, perſons who are hir'd to take an account every Week what the Commodities may be worth, and to take care that no more than ſuch a Toll be laid upon any thing; which they tax among themſelves, and when they had ſet the Rate, they cauſe it to be cry'd at the beginning of every Week. Sha-Sefi then reign'd, it being the year 1632. The King being inform'd by theſe people of the Impoſt which the Kan had ſet upon Fruit without his knowledge, was ſo enrag'd againſt him, that he caus'd him to be brought in Chains to Iſpahan, where he us'd him with a ſtrange ſeverity. For at that time the Son of the Kan ſtood at the King's Elbow, it being his Office to give him his Pipe and his Tobacco, which is a very honourable Employment in Perſia. When the Kan came, the King caus'd him to be carry'd to the Gate of the Palace, in the preſence of all the People, and then commanded his Son to pull the Hair of his Father's Muſtaches by the roots from his Skin. After that he commanded him to cut off his Noſe and his Ears; after that to put out his Eyes, and laſtly to cut off his Head. When he had done the Execution according to the King's pleaſure, he commanded him to go and take poſſeſſion of his Fathers Government, and allowing him an experienc'd Old Man for his Lieutenant, he ſent him to Kom with theſe words; If thou govern'ſt no better than this dead Dog has done, I will put thee to a more cruel Death than this.

Leaving Kom, for four hours you travel over a fair Champain Country, after which you come to a fair Village with five or ſix Inns in it. Beyond that is nothing but Sand, till you come to a place call'd Abſchirim, or Freſh-water, where there are three Inns at a Diſtance from any Villages. From Abſchirim to Cachan is ſix hours journey through a Corn Country, and ſtor'd with great Villages.

Cachan is a large City, well peopl'd, and furniſh'd with all things neceſſary for humane ſubſiſtance: There is an old Wall about it which is faln down in many places, ſo that there is no need of ſeeking for Gates to get into the City. On that ſide which looks toward Iſpahan the Soil is good, and produces great ſtore of Fruit and Wine, which the Jews take care to make. It is reckon'd that there are in Cachan a thouſand Families of Jews; in Iſpahan about ſix hundred; but in Kom there are not above nine or ten. Not but that there are many Jews in Perſia, but thoſe that live in Iſpahan, Cachan and Kom, boaſt themſeves particularly of the Tribe of Judah.

There are an abundance of Silk-Weavers in Chachan that are very good Workmen, which make all the beſt purfl'd Sattins mix'd with Gold and Silver, that come out of Perſia. There they alſo coyn Money, and make Copper-veſſels, which they vend in great quantities at a good diſtance off. The Market-houſes are very fair ones, and well vaulted, the Inns large and convenient: but there was one among the reſt which was very magnificent, near the King's Gardens, at the entry of the City. As well the Inn as the Gardens were made by the order of Sha-Abbas, the firſt of that Name, who was at a vaſt charge. The Inn is above a hun •• ed Paces ſquare, built of Brick two Stories high, containing twenty-ſix vaulted Chambers of a reaſonable bigneſs. It was a Structure too fair to be ſo little regarded, as now it is, being much faln to deca • . In the middle of the Court was a Fountain to receive Water, which is ſpoil'd. The Perſians and Turks are of that bad humor, rather to build new Houſes than to repair old Buildings. For which reaſon they have ſince built at Cachin four or five Inns, as fair and commodious as that of Sha-Abas. This Cuſtom is grown to that height, that the Children are ſo far from taking care to repair the old Houſes where their Parents liv'd, that they will not ſo much as live in them after their deceaſe, covetous of the honour of building Houſes for themſelves.

Before we le • ve Cachan you muſt take notice, that as you are to travel from that City to Guilan, you cannot avoid travelling thorough Plains for twelve hours together, which are all pure Salt; and there is nothing to be met with by the way, but one Ciſtern; nor can the Water which is in it be otherwiſe than very bad.

Leaving Cachan, you croſs a Plain of three Leagues, after which you enter in among the Mountains, where you come to a very fair Inn of Brick. From thence you deſcend a pleaſant Vale, where you travel a long time by the ſide of a River, over a ver • narrow way. At the end of the Valley you meet a great Wall, which croſſes it, and joyns the two Mountains together. This Wall is above a hundred Paces long, above thirty Foot thick, and fifty high. It was the Work of the Great Sha-Abas, whoſe deſign it was to ſtop the Waters that fall from the Mountain, and to make a Receptacle for Water in that place, to ſerve his occaſions. At the foot of the Wall there is a Sluce, which being let down keeps in the Water; but is pull'd up to let out the Water over all the neighbouring Lands to the Plain of Cachan. From this Receptacle to Coro • is about two hours travel.

Corou is a very large Village, and well peopl'd, in a Soil environ'd with high Mountains, and planted with great ſtore of Walnut-trees. The Houſes conſiſt but of one low Story, being built of Flint-ſtone; but the Inn therein is very fair and commodious. This Village conſiſts but of one Street, but it is almoſt half a League long, and very troubleſom in the Winter, by reaſon of a great River that runs through it▪ and the great quantity of Stones that lye in the way. All about this Village, as in ſeveral other places of Perſia, there are a great number of Sha • ales; which are a kind of Foxes, that in the night time make an ugly noiſe; for if but one cry, all the reſt will make anſwer, and ſet up a howling.

From Corou you muſt travel three Leagues between Mountains, after which you have but twelve Leagues to Iſpahan. It is a continued Plain that extends it ſelf beyond the City, and in many places the Soil is very good. At every three Leagues end you meet with Inns. The firſt is call'd Achaha-Acacamala; the ſecond, which is the half-way between Corou and Iſpahan, is call'd Michiacour. This place conſiſts not only of one Inn, for there are many others, ſo that it reſembles a large Village. From Michiacour you come to Aganura, another Inn, but ill built; and from Agan • ra, after you have travel'd three Leagues through a fat and fertil Country, you come to Iſpahan.

CHAP. VII. Of the Road from Smyrna to Iſpahan, through Natolia.

SMyrna is at this day for Trade, whether it be by Sea or Land, one of the moſt celebrated Cities of all the Levant, and the greateſt Market for all ſorts of Commodities which are tranſported out of Aſia into Europe, or out of Europe into Aſia. Hither all the Weſtern Fleets are moſt regularly bound, that came formerly no farther than Ligorn, and from whence, at times moſt regularly appointed, the • aireſt Caravans ſet out.

This City lyes in 50 Degrees of Longitude; and 38 Degrees, 45 Minutes of Latitude; at the bottom of a Gulf in the Archipelago, which is ſeven Leagues in length, upon the right ſide of the Iſthmus which begins to form the Peninſula of Clazomene, right againſt the Iſland of Schio. It lyes in that part of the Leſſer Aſia, which the Greeks poſſeſs'd, under the Name of Iconium; at a diſtance almoſt equal, between Epheſus and Sardis; and was one of the ſeven Churches mention▪d in the Revelation of St. John. It is at this day a great City, built like an Amphitheater, upon the deſcent of a Hill that looks toward the Summer-Weſt. But it is neither ſo great, nor ſo beautiful as formerly it was, as may be eaſily conjectur'd by the Ruines of certain Edifices that remain upon that Hill, which from the middle to the top, where the ancient City ſtood, are altogether uninhabited. There are alſo to be ſeen the Walls of a fair Caſtle, and above that the Ruines of an Amphitheater, where they ſay St. Polycarp was expos'd to fight with Lions. This Amphitheater was not in the form of thoſe other, which are uſually round; for it contain'd but half a Circle, being left open to the Sea-ſide. The Turks have almoſt quite deſtroy'd it: making uſe of the Stones to build a Fort two Leagues from the City, upon the Gulf, where the paſſage is very narrow; which the Ships are forc'd to ſalute as they inter in, and to ſpeak with when they ſail ou • ▪ Moreover, that they might not be put to ſend for Stones a-far-off, they conſulted whether they might not make uſe of the Stones of the Chriſtians Monuments, as alſo of thoſe of the Jews, which are near the Shor • ▪ But they took very few, whether out of kindneſs to the Tombs, or whether they did not think them ſo proper for uſe as the Stones of the Amphitheater. This Caſtle had not been long built, but upon an occaſion very remarkable. In the laſt Wars of the Turks with the Venetians, the Ottoman Fleet having been beaten in the Archipelago, the G • and Signor reſolv'd to re-fit another to Sea, and thereupon ſent to all the parts of his Empire▪ where he knew any Engliſh or Holland Veſſels uſually were wont to ride, to ſollicit them to ſerve him for his Pay. More particularly • e aim'd at thoſe Veſſels which were in Smyrna, where there were generally more than in any other Port. But the Captains, who rejected his Propoſition of fighting againſt the Ven • tians, believing that he would put ſome force upon them, ſuddenly▪ hois'd Sail and got away; it being at a time when he could not keep them in, having no Caſtle then built to command them. The Grand Viſier nettl'd at the refuſal of the Captains, as an affront done to his Maſter, and to ſee that the Ships could come in and go out, without any let or▪ moleſtation, bethought himſelf (to the end he might keep them for the future und •• ſubjection) of building a Fort upon the Gulf, in ſuch a part where the Veſſels muſt neceſſarily touch; where now there lye great Cannons level with the Water, which no Veſſel can eſcape. Ever ſince the Convoys will not come to Smyrna, as they were wont to do, but lye out at Sea, out of the reach of the Fort.

Near to the Sea are yet to be ſeen ſome Remains of a Church, two ſides whereof ſeem to have been diſtinguiſh'd into Chappels by little Walls, which are yet ſtanding: But the Natives doubt whether they be the Ruines of a Church dedicated to St. Polycarp, or of an ancient Temple of Janus.

Smyrna has been oftentimes ruin'd either by the Wars, or by the Earthquakes which often happen there. One time that I ſtaid there, there happen'd one, which did not laſt long, but was very terrible. About ſixty Paces from the Sea are to be diſcern'd the Ruines of great Walls two Foot under Water; and at the end of the City that looks toward the Winter-Weſt, near to the Sea, appear the Ruines of a Mole, and certain ancient Magazines.

The Engliſh Merchants have dig'd among the Ruines of Smyrna, and have found great ſtore of • air Statues, which they tranſported into their own Country. There are ſtill found ſome or other every day; but when the Turks find any, they disfigure them preſently. It may be conjectur'd, that there was one of a prodigious bigneſs, by a great Toe broken off of ſome one, and for which I paid ſufficiently, out of the deſire I had to buy it. I ſent it to Paris to a Perſon of Quality, who look'd upon it as a great Curioſity. This Toe was of a hard white Stone, and well ſhap'd, and by the proportion whereof, the Figure could not be judg'd to be leſs than the Coloſſus of Rhodes.

Upon that ſide of the City where the Mole was, ſtands an old Caſtle of no defence, at the foot whereof the Sea makes a ſmall Creek, where ſometimes the Gallies of the Grand Signor lye.

The City is well peopl'd containing no leſs than fourſcore and ten thouſand Souls. There are reckon'd no leſs than 60000 Turks, 15000 Greeks, 8000 Armenians, and about ſix or ſeven thouſand Jews. As for the European Chriſtians that Trade there, their number is very ſmall. Every one of theſe Nations has the exerciſe of their Religion free to themſelves. The Turks have in Smyrna fifteen Moſquees, the Jews ſeven Synagogues, the Armenians but one Church, the Greeks two, and the Latines three. There are alſo French Jeſuits, and Italian Obſervantins, or a ſort of Grey Franciſcans. The Turks, the Greeks, the Armenians, and Jews live upon the Hill; but all the lower part toward the Sea is inhabited only by the European Chriſtians, Engliſh, French, Hollanders, and Italians. The Greeks have alſo in the ſame Quarter an old Church, and ſome few ſmall Houſes, where Sea-men make merry.

All theſe different People of Europe are generally known in Smyrna by the Name of Franks. Every Nation has its Conſul: and the French Conſul has two Vice-Conſuls under him; the one at Scalanova, the other at Chio.

Scalanova, or the New Port, is two Leagues beyond Epheſus, and being a good Haven, the Veſſels were wont to unlade there; but the Turks would not permit it any longer. For that Place being the Dowry of the Grand Signor's Mother, the Vice-Conſul agreed with the Governour of Scalanova, who permitted the Tranſportation of Goods to Smyrna, which is not above three little days journey with the • aravan: A thing that ſpoil'd the Trade of the City, and injur'd the Officers of the Cuſtom-Houſe. Whereupon they Petition'd the Grand Signor that no more Goods might be unladed at Scalanova: ſo that now no more Veſſels go thither, unleſs it be to take in freſh Victuals.

Chio is one of the greateſt Iſlands in the Archipelago, of which in another place: but the Vice-Conſul that lives there has no more buſineſs there than the other at Scalanova; for the Veſſels that touch there, neither unlade no • export any Goods from thence.

The Quarter of the Franks is only a long Street, one ſide whereof lyes upon the Sea; and as well for the Proſpect, as for the convenience of Unlading Goods, the Houſes upon the Sea are much dearer than thoſe that lye upon the Hill.

The Soil about Smyrna is fertil, and abounds in all things neceſſary for humane ſupport; but particularly in good Oyl and good Wine. There are Salt-Pits alſo half a League from the City, toward the North. The Sea affords great ſtore of good Fiſh; Fowl is very cheap; and in a word, Smyrna is a place of great plenty. There is a lovely Walk all along the Sea to the Salt▪Pits, where generally abundance of People walk in the Summer-time to take the freſh Air: and there being more liberty at Smyrna than in any other part of Turkie, there is no neceſſity of taking a Janiſary along, when a man goes abroad. If a man loves Fowling, it is but • aking a Boat, which lands him two or three Leagues from the City, toward the Mountains, where there is ſo much Game that he can never return empty. For the value of three Sous you may buy a red Partridge at Smyrna, and all other Fowl is proportionably cheap.

But if Smyrna have theſe great advantages, it has alſo its inconveniences: the Heats are very exceſſive in Summer, and indeed they would be inſupportable, were it not for the Breezes that come off the Sea: theſe Breezes riſe about ten in the Morning, and continue till the Evening; but if they • ail, 'tis very bad for the Inhabitants. Beſides, there hardly paſſes a Year but the City is infeſted with the Plague, which however is not ſo violent as in Chriſtendom. The Turks neither fear it nor flie it, believing altogether in Predeſtination. Yet I believe, if the Inhabitants of Smyrna would take care to drain away the ſtanding Puddles that gather in the Winter about the City, they would not be ſo frequently moleſted with the Plague as they are. It is moſt rife in May, June, and July; but the malignant Fevers that ſucceed it in September and October are more to be fear'd, more People dying of them than of the Peſtilence. In all my Travels I never was in Smyrna at theſe unfortunate Seaſons. There is no Baſha in that City; it being govern'd only by a Cady, who is not ſo ſevere to the Chriſtians as in other places: For ſhould he abuſe his Office, Conſtantinople is at hand, where you may complain to the Mufti, and have relief; who for ſome good Preſent may be eaſily perſwaded to depoſe the Cady, as being glad of the opportunity to diſplace him, and to put another in his room.

The Cuſtoms of Smyrna yield a great Revenue to the Grand Signor, being paid there very exactly. But were there a certain Rate put upon Commodities, the Merchants, who would otherwiſe be loſers, would not ſtudy ſo many ways as they do to deceive the Cuſtomers: For thoſe Cuſtomers lay what Price they pleaſe upon Commodities, valuing that at a thouſand Crowns, which perhaps is not worth three hundred, being abſolute Maſters of the Rate. In my laſt Voyage to Smyrna, four Dutch Women that went thither in our Ship from their own Country, carry'd a-ſhoar under their Coats whatever I had of rich Merchandize: for the Turks have ſuch a reſpect for that Sex, that they will not ſo much as offer to ſearch them. If a man be tak'n in ſtealing Cuſtoms, there is no other puniſhment than to pay double.

The Trade of Smyrna is very great, and the principal Merchandizes which the Franks tranſport from thence, are raw Silk, which the Armenians bring out of Perſia; Chamlet-yarn, and Chamlet or Goats-hair, which come from a little City call'd Angouri, fifteen or ſixteen days journey from Smyrna; Cotton twiſted; Skins and Cordovans of ſeveral colours; Calicuts, white and blew; great quantities of Wool for Mattreſſes, Tap'ſtries, quilted Coverlets, Soap, Rhubarb, Galls, Valanede, Scammony, and Opium; which four laſt Commodities are to be had in the Countries near to Smyrna, but not in great quantities. The Caravans come generally to this Town in the Months of February, June, and October; and depart again to the Countries from whence they came the ſame Months.

Epheſus not being above a day and a halfs journey from Smyrna, on Horſe-back-I took an opportunity to go thither. There were twelve of us that joyn'd together, Franks and Hollanders, who took three Janiſaries along with us, and three Horſes to carry our Proviſion.

We travel'd this little Journey in the Summer, and ſetting out of Smyrna about three of the Clock in the Afternoon, we rode through a Country part Plains, and part Hills, till we came to a great Village, where we ſup'd.

After we had ſtaid there three hours, we took Horſe and travel'd till Midnight, to avoid the Heats: By the way we met with nine or ten Arches, very narrow; which we could not conjecture to be any thing elſe than the Ruines of ſome Aqueduct. From thence to Epheſus the way is very pleaſant, through little Thickets watred with Rivulets.

A quarter of a League from Epheſus you meet with another Moſquee, which was formerly a Chriſtian Church, built out of the Ruines of the Temple of Epheſus. This Moſquee ſtands enclos'd with Walls, and you muſt aſcend up to it by two Aſcents of twelve Steps a-piece, which bring you to a large Paſſage. From thence you enter into a large Cloyſter, the Arches whereof are ſuſtain'd with Marble Pillars of ſeveral colours, delicately wrought; and the lower part of the Gallery, which runs along three of the ſides, that conſiſts of great Squares of Stone. The Moſquee takes up the fourth ſide upon the left hand, the Gate being in the middle. The Moſquee it ſelf is a wide Arch, ſupported by five Columns, all of moſt exquiſite Work. There are four of Marble, and every one of a different Colour; but the fifth is a moſt rare piece, being of Porphyry, aed the bigneſs of it makes it ſo much the more to be admir'd.

Epheſus does not look like a City, being ſo abſolutely ruin'd, that there is not a Houſe ſtanding. It was built upon the deſcent of a Hill, in a ſituation not much unlike that of Smyrna, at the foot whereof runs a Rivulet, after it has made a thouſand Maeander • ▪ in the Meadows. The City ſeems to have been very large, for you may diſcern upon the top of the Gates the compaſs of the Walls, with ſeveral ſquare Towers, ſome of which are ſtill ſtanding: and there is one very remarkable, having two Chambers in it, one of which is a very fair one, the Walls and Pavement whereof are Marble.

The famous Temple of Diana ſtood at the bottom of the Hill, near one of the Gates of the City. There remains nothing of it at preſent but the great Portal, which is entire. The Vaults of the Arches under ground ſtand to this day, and are very large, but all full of naſtineſs. We went in with Lanthorns; and though you muſt creep to get in, by reaſon that the Wind has almoſt ſtopt up the Hole, by gathering the Duſt about it, yet when you are in, you may go upright; for the Arches are high and fair, and little the worſe. Near the Gate lye four or five Columns upon the Ground, and near to that a Fountain, ten Foot in Diameter, and two deep. The People of the Country report, that it was the Fountain wherein St. John Baptiz'd the Chriſtians. For my part, as I have ſeen in the Indies ſeveral Pagods and Edifices much more beautiful than ever the Temple of Epheſus could be; I believe it rather to have been a Baſin wherein the People put their Offerings, of which there are ſeveral ſuch that belong to the Indian Pagods. The Greeks and Armenians, but above all the Franks, when they go to Epheſus always endeavour to break off ſome piece of that Baſin, to carry it away with 'em as a Relick: but the Stone is ſo hard, that they can break off but very little at a time.

Not far from the Temple appears another Gate of the City, over which there lyes a great Stone ſeven or eight Foot ſquare, with an emboſs'd Figure of Q. Curtius that Famous Roman, who threw himſelf, Horſe and A •• ms into the gaping Earth, for the good of his Country. Many Merchants have offer'd Money for liberty to carry it away, but cannot obtain leave. About five hundred Paces from Epheſus is the Grotto which they call the Seven Sleepers, at the bottom of the ſame Hill where the City was built.

From Epheſus we went to Scalanova, which is not above two Leagues off. By that time you come half the way, the little River that runs by Epheſus falls into the Sea, in the mouth whereof there are always a great number of Greek Barks fiſhing for Sturgeon. Of the Spawn of this Fiſh they make Caveare, and drive a great Trade in it in thoſe Parts: then they take the moſt delicate and ſmalleſt Entrails of that Fiſh, which they fill with the ſame Spawn, of which they make a kind of a flat Pudding, as long as a Bisket, which they call Botargo. This they dry in the Smoak, and cut it afterwards in ſlices to eat. Upon this and the Cuttle-fiſh the Grecks generally feed during their Lent, which is very auſtere.

Scalanova is a Port of which I have already ſpoken, and thither we came by ſeven a Clock in the Evening; where the Governour of the Place, more civil than uſually the Turks are accuſtom'd to be, made us very welcom.

In the Evening one of our Janiſaries had quarrel'd with one of our Servants, who thereupon had beaten him; and therefore he complain'd to the Fellow's Maſter, who not giving him that ſatisfaction which he deſir'd, thereupon the Turk ſtudy'd to be reveng'd upon the whole Company. For this reaſon, upon ſome pretence or other, he went before, the better to bring about his deſign. We ſtaid till the Morning, and then departed early from Scalanova, and by Noon we came with good Stomachs to the Moſquee near Epheſus, where we had been the day before: And ſome of the Company thought it a very convenient place to dine in, i'the ſhade; thereupon we ſent for our Proviſions, with a Boracho of Wine, and another of Water, and fell to eating in the Paſſage into the Moſquee, not dreaming any harm. We had not been long at it, when we perceiv'd two or three Turks about two hundred Paces off, who came from a Village very near to the Moſquee. I knowing the cuſtom of the Country better than they, told them, that they were certainly coming to pick a quarrel with us, and therefore caus'd them to hide the Bottle of Wine immediately; for it was then Turks Ramezan, or Lent; during which time Wine is ſtrictly forbidden. Theſe two ill-contriv'd and ill clad Fellows were the Janiſaries of the place, whom the Cadi had▪ſent, upon the information of our Janiſary (who knowing we had eaten in the ſame place before, as indeed we had done, made no queſtion but we would do ſo again) thinking to ſurprize us as we were drinking Wine, in a place which they eſteem Sacred, and by conſequence was among them accounted an act of Sacriledge. Chriſtian Dogs, cry'd they, when they came near us, to eat and drink in a Moſquee, and profane a holy place as you do, at a time that renders the offence more criminal! No, cry'd I, anſwering for the reſt, we drink no Wine, we drink nothing but Water, and you may taſt it, ſaid I to him that was the moſt buſie; with that I caus'd a Glaſs to be pour'd out and giv'n him; and I gave one of the Turks a private wink, who underſtanding it was a promiſe of gratuity, turn'd about to his Comrades, and cry'd, 'Tis very true, they drink no Wine. However in regard they had Orders to bring us before the Cady, there was no contending. Thereupon I and three others undertook to anſwer for all the reſt. The Cady revil'd us as bad as the Janiſary at firſt; but he was not only ſurpriz'd, but very much troubl'd, when they all unanimouſly affirm'd that we drank no Wine, believing they were confederates with us. But I had cunningly ſlipt eight Ducats into the Hand of the Turk to whom I had made a ſign with my Eye, who over-joy'd at ſo plentiful a gratuity, had over-perſwaded his Comrades not to ſay any thing againſt us. The Cady, though he did not like their Teſtimony, yet call'd for Coffee for us, according to the cuſtom of the Country, and ſent us to his Lieutenant; who having been often greas'd in the Fiſt by the Smyrna-Merchants, receiv'd us very kindly, and told us that the Cady was but newly come to his Place, and was needy; however a ſmall matter would content him. Thereupon we gave the Lieutenant twenty-five Ducats, who moſt certainly went ſnips with the Cady, and ſo return'd us to our Company, who were much afraid we would not have come off ſo.

We were reſolv'd to return to Smyrna not the ſame way we came, and ſo we took another Road, which was a very pleaſant way, partly over firm Sands, and partly thorough Meadows, where we met with ſeveral narrow Dikes very well Pav'd. Then we croſs a rugged high Mountain, and lay in a Mahumetan Barn.

The next day we return'd to Smyrna, having finiſh'd our ſmall Journey to Epheſus in five days. When we told the Conſuls how the Janizary had betray'd us, they made their Complaint to the Janizary Aga and the Cady, who, for his puniſhment put him out of the Conſul's ſervice, which is an advantageous Employment. For beſides that the Conſul's Janizaries are exempt from the Duties of War, they are well plac'd; for there is never a Merchant that is not beneficial to them ſome way or other; eſpecially at good times, as New-years-day and other Feſtivals. Nor could the Janizary have been more ſeverely puniſh'd; for the Turks love Money above all things in the World.

But to return to our matter. The Rendezvouz of all the Caravans is generally two Leagues from the City, near a Town call'd Pongarbachi. The day of their ſetting out being fix'd, every one provides himſelf for his Journey, and meets the Evening before at the place appointed, to be ready at the hour.

From Smyrna to Tocat, is thirty-five days journey with the Caravan, and the laſt time I went we made it thirty-eight from Pongarbachi.

The firſt day we travel'd eight hours through a Country whoſe proſpect was not unpleaſing, leaving ſome Villages more than a League from the Road; and we lodg'd in a Park, near the River Pactolus; which is a ſmall River, the Sand whereof ſhines, and is of ſeveral colours. Which caus'd Antiquity to call Pactolus Golden-Sanded. It falls from the Mountain Tmolus, and after it has water'd the Territory of Sardis, mixes with the River Hermus, that throws it ſelf into the Archipelago through the Gulph of Smyrna. The Mouth of it is not above two or three Leagues from the City, toward the North.

The next day in ſix hours we came to Durgout, a little City in a Plain. All Chriſtians that live not in the Territories of the Grand Signor, and paſs that way, once a Year pay Carrage, or a Tribute of four or five Crowns: but the Franks are exempt, both at Durgout and over all Turkie. There reſides a Baſhae in this City; and we were conſtrain'd to ſtop there a whole day, becauſe the Caravan that comes from Perſia arriv'd at that time, ſo that they were fore'd to change their Camels.

The third day, after five hours travel in extremity of Heat, we came to lodge near a paltry Village.

The fourth day we travel'd ſix hours, and ſtop'd near to a ſmall River. In the Morning we paſs'd over the Ruines of the ancient Sardis, the Capital City of Lydia, and Seat of King Croeſus. There were ſtill to be ſeen the Ruines of a large Palace and two fair Churches, with a great number of Pillars and Corniches of Marble. This City having held out ſix Years againſt the Army of Temur-leng, who beſieg'd it; ſo ſoon as he had taken it, in revenge he utterly deſtroy'd it. There is a Village near Sardis of the ſame Name, where ſtood the City, which was one of the Seven Churches mention'd in the Revelation. The fifth day we rode for ſeven hours through a Country, but ill manur'd, and took up our Stage in a Plain upon the ſide of a River.

The ſixth day we paſs'd by the Walls of the ancient Philadelphia, call'd at preſent Allachars, which was alſo one of the Seven Churches of Aſia. There is ſomething of Beauty ſtill remaining in thoſe Walls, and the City is very large, but ill peopl'd. It is ſituated upon four little Hills, at the foot of a high Mountain over-looking a fair Plain to the North, that produces excellent Fruit. To witneſs its Antiquity, there is yet the Ruines of an Amphitheater, with certain Sepulchers▪ from whence the Inhabitants report that the European Chriſtians took out the Bodies that were buried there, and tranſported them into Europe, believing them to be the Bodies of Saints. It is now all deſtroy'd, but re-built of Earth by the Turks after their mode. It was formerly one of the principal Cities of Myſia, and in regard it was alway very ſubject to Earthquakes, the moſt part of her Inhabitants liv'd in the Country. The laſt time I travel'd that way, in the year 1664, the ſeventeenth of June, the Turks were feaſting and rejoycing upon the News, as they ſaid, which they had receiv'd, of the defeat of the Chriſtians in Candy. But the News was falſe, and only contriv'd to encourage the People; for the Grand Signor was then making Levies in thoſe Parts. We lodg'd that day, after ſeven hours travel, upon the Bank of a ſmall River, a League and a half from Philadelphia.

The ſeventh day we travel'd eleven hours over a Mountain, where thoſe Trees plentifully grow that bear Galls, and Valanede, which is the ſhell or rind of an Acorn, that Curriers make uſe of to dreſs their Leather. We lodg'd in a Meadow on the top of a Mountain which is call'd Ijagli-bogaſe, or, The Mountain of Robbers.

The eighth day we continu'd our Journey over the ſame Mountain, which is a very barren Country where there is no Proviſion to be had. We travel'd but ſix hours, and lodg'd near a River in a Plain call'd Sarroucabaqui.

The ninth day the Caravan travel'd thorough dry Lands, where there is not one Village to be ſeen, and lodg'd near a Bridge built over a River call'd Copli-ſou, in the Plain of Inahi.

The tenth day, after we had travel'd eight hours over an uneven and barren Country, we ſtopt in a Valley near a River call'd Bana-ſou, the Water whereof is not good. In the Night there aroſe a Tempeſt that put us all in a diſorder, and the Rain that fell was as cold as if it had been in the depth of Winter. We were wet to the Skins, and were forc'd to throw Coverlets over the Bales to keep the Goods from being ſpoyl'd.

The eleventh day we travel'd through a pleaſant Country, between Vales adorn'd with a moſt delightful Verdure; and we were in view as we paſs'd along of certain hot Baths, though very little regarded. We lodg'd upon the Banks of a ſmall River, by the ſide whereof we had travel'd for ſome hours.

The twelfth day we continu'd our Road for ſix hours between the ſame Vallies, and lodg'd by a River.

The thirteenth day, we travel'd eight hours▪ and ſtop'd near to a Village in a Country call'd Doügaſſe.

The fourteenth, after a Journey of ſeven hours we paſs'd by the Walls of Aphiom-Caraſſar, that is, The Black City of Aphiom or Opium; becauſe it has a Proſpect over a fair and large Country well cultivated, where they ſow great ſtore of Poppies, whence they draw their Opium or Aphiom, as the Turks call it.

Aphiom-Caraſſar, is a great City, dirty and ill built, the ancient Name whereof I could never learn, for the Greeks and Armenians are very ignorant. But according to all probability and the ſituation of the place, it ought to be the ancient Hi • rapolis ſituated upon the Maander, a famous River of the Leſſer Aſia, that winds and turns the moſt of any River in the World. And indeed we are the more to ſeek, in regard the Turks change the ancient Names according to their own cuſtom and pleaſure, and give no other Names to Rivers than that of the principal City through which they paſs; or elſe deriving their Names from the Colour of their Sands. There is to be ſeen in that City an ancient Caſtle of Free-ſtone upon the Point of a high Rock, ſeparated from the Mountains that are next it toward the South, which make a Semicircle. All the Armenian Chriſtians, Subjects to the King of Perſia, paſſing thorough Aphiom Caraſſar muſt there pay Carrage, from which they are not exempted, though they have paid it before at Erzerom or elſewhere. The Caravan does not ſtop at Aphiom-Caraſſar, as well for that there are no Inns but what are ruin'd, as for that about a League farther there is a place where you have excellent Fiſh, and very cheap, and they of the City bring Barley, Straw, and other things which the Caravan wants. The Caravan therefore that day lodges upon the Banks of Maeander, which is to be croſs'd over a Bridge not far diſtant from a ſmall Village. In this River are great ſtore of Crawfiſh and Carps; and the Fiſhermen will be ſure to attend upon the Caravan. I have ſeen ſome Carps there above three Foot long.

The fifteenth our Caravan began to part it ſelf, ſome for Tocat, ſome for the Road to Aleppo; the one part taking the right-hand. Road toward the Winter-Eaſt, for Syria; the other the left-hand. Road North-Eaſt, for Armenia.

After we were parted, we travel'd two or three hours in ſight of one another. They that go to Aleppo, fall into Tarſus, where St. Paul was born, and from Tarſus to Alexandretta. But we continu'd our Road to Tocat, and after we had croſs'd a great Plain, having travel'd ſix hours, we lodg'd in a Merſhy place near a ſmall Village. There is one thing remarkable in this Road as in many others, which manifeſts the Charity of the Turks. For in moſt of the high Roads, that are far from Rivers, they have ſet up Ciſterns, whither when the Rains fail, the neighbouring Villages bring Water for the Travellers, who would elſe be very much diſtreſs'd.

The ſixteenth we travel'd eight hours through a very even Country, but ill manur'd; where we ſaw a little City call'd Boulavandi. There are ſome Moſquee's, which the Turks have built out of the Ruines of the ancient Greeks Churches, from which they have taken Pillars of Marble, and other pieces of Architecture, to adorn their Sepulchers without any order at all, which you meet with very often upon the high Roads; the number is the greater, becauſe they never lay two Bodies in one Grave. There is alſo in this City an Inn, cover'd with Lead, which is all the Beauty of it; nor do Travellers make any uſe of it but only in foul weather. We lodg'd a League and a half from the City, and ſtaid there all the next day.

The ſeventeenth we travel'd eleven hours through a mix'd and uneven Country, and came to lodge in a Village where there are not above three or four Houſes, though there be excellent Paſturage about it. There is no Water, but what is drawn out of three deep Wells; for which reaſon the place is call'd Euche derin-gi • .

The eighteenth we travel'd not above five hours through deſert Countries, and took up our Stage in a king of a Bog, near a pitiful Village.

The nineteenth, after we had travell'd eight hours through ſpacious deſert Plains, we paſs'd through a large Village, the Inhabitants whereof were gone with their Cattel into the Mountains, for the cool Air, during the Summer time, according to cuſtom. There is an indifferent handſom Moſquee of Free-ſtone; and indeed the Village, the Name whereof the People told me was Tſhaciclou, has been much bigger than now it is, as may appear by the Ruines. In two hours after we came to lodge beyond it in a Meadow, near a Rivulet.

The twentieth we croſs'd over deſert Plains, but which ſeem'd to have been formerly well manur'd; and after ten hours travel, we ſtop'd in a Bottom near a bad Water.

The twenty-firſt, for ten hours the Country was all barren and deſert, and we came to lodge at the end of a long Plain, near two Wells, the Water whereof was good for nothing.

The twenty-ſecond we travel'd through the fore-mention'd Plain, and met with little Valleys where there was very good Paſturage. The Caravan ſtop'd near to a pitiful Village, and a naſty Well.

The twenty-third we travel'd not above five hours; becauſe it was the time of the Turks Beiram, or Eaſter, which our Caravan, conſiſting of Turks, would needs ſolemnize. That day we travel'd through an indifferent good Country, and well till'd, where we diſcover'd ſeveral fair Villages; and we lodg'd upon a riſing Ground, from whence we had a very fair and far diſtant Proſpect.

The twenty-fourth we travel'd ſix hours, and came to lodge in a Meadow where the Water was bad. Near to that place, we diſcover'd a Plain that extends it ſelf eight or ten Leagues in length, though it be not above one or two in bredth: it ſeem'd like a Lake; and indeed it is only a ſalt Water congeal'd, and thickn'd into Salt, which you can hardly diſſolve but in fair Water. This Lake furniſhes almoſt all Nato ••• with Salt; where you may buy a Waggon load drawn by two Bufalo's for 45 Sous. It is call'd Douſlag, or The Place for Salt; and the Baſha of Couchahar, about two days journey from it, gets by it 24000 Crowns a Year. Sultan Amurath caus'd a D ••• to be • ut quite thorough it when his Army march'd to the Siege of Bagdat, which he took from the Perſian.

The twenty-fifth we travel'd nine or ten hours, and met not with one Village, the Country being all deſert. We lodg'd upon a riſing▪ Ground, near a good Fountain call'd Cara-dache-ceſmé, or, The Fountain of the Black Stone.

The twenty-ſixth we paſs'd through a great Village call'd Tſhekenagar, in a pleaſant ſituation, but very ill built; and after we had travel'd eight hours, we came to lodge in a delightful Meadow, near another Village call'd Romcouché.

The twenty-ſeventh we travel'd nine hours through Countries full of Licorice, and having paſs'd a great Town call'd Beſerguenlou, we lodg'd in a Meadow.

The twenty eighth we croſs'd a great River call'd Jechil • irma, over a long well built ſtone Bridge. At the end of the Bridge call'd Keſſré-kupri ſtands a great Village, wherein the greateſt part of the Houſes are built under Ground, like Foxes Holes. We put on farther, and after ſeven hours travel, we lodg'd below another great Village call'd Mouchiour, where there are abundance of Greeks, which they conſtrain ever and anon to turn Turks, The Country being inhabited by Chriſtians, and fit for the Plantation of Vines, there is Wine good ſtore, and very good, but it has the ſcent of the Wines of Anjou. The Village is well ſituated but ill built, moſt of the Houſes being under Ground, in ſo much that one of the Company riding careleſly, had like to have faln into a Houſe.

The twenty-ninth we rode for ſeven hours through a pleaſant Country, where we ſaw ſeveral Villages; near to one of which the Caravan lodg'd in a Meadow, cloſe by a Fountain.

The thirtieth we rode through a flat Country, well manur'd, and ſtop'd near a River wherein there was but very little Water: it is call'd Cara-ſou, or, The Black River. For two or three days together, at every two Leagues diſtance we obſerv'd little Hillocks of Earth artificially rear'd, which they told us were rais'd during the Wars of the Greeks to build Forts upon, for Watch-Towers.

The thirty-firſt we travel'd a very uneven Country, but abounding in Wheat, and after we had travel'd nine hours, we lodg'd in a Meadow, near a River, which we croſs'd next Morning before day, over a ſtone Bridge.

The thirty-ſecond, after we had travel'd eight hours, we lodg'd by a River, where we ſaw a great number of Turcomans: They are a People that live in Tents like the Arabians, and they were then leaving that Country to go to another, having their luggage in Waggons drawn by Bufalo's.

The thirty-third we met again with Mountains and Woods, which we had not ſeen in 18 days before, which had conſtrain'd us to carry▪ Wood upon our Camels to dreſs our Proviſion: We were very ſparing of it, and ſometimes made uſe of dry'd Cows dung or Camels dung, when we came near the Waters where they were wont to drink. We travel'd eight hours that day, and lodg'd in a Meadow where the Graſs was very high, yet where there had been Houſes formerly ſtanding.

The thirty-fourth we forded a deep and rapid River call'd Jangou, from the Name of the Town next to it. A little above the place where we forded it, we ſaw a ruin'd Bridge, which had been built over it.

The thirty-fifth we travel'd eight hours through a fair Valley well manur'd, and upon the left hand we left a Caſtle rais'd upon a Rock. The Caravan lay that night upon a riſing Ground near a Village.

The thirty-ſixth we travel'd through the ſame Valley for eight or nine hours longer; in this Valley were ſeveral pleaſant Villages, but we lay by a ſmall River.

The thirty-ſeventh we travell'd ſix hours among the Mountains, where there are ſome very narrow Paſſages, but ſtore of Water; and we lay in a Vale abounding in Paſturage.

The thirty-eighth we rode for four or five hours over a rugged Mountain in craggy way, at the foot whereof we met with a Village call'd Taquibac; from whence it is but five Leagues to Tocat. And theſe are all the Roads from Paris to Iſpahan, through the Northern Territories of Turkie.

CHAP. VIII. How the Author was robb'd near Tocat, and of a certain ſort of rare and fine Wool which he firſt brought into France.

TAquibac is the place where the Perſian Caravan uſes to meet, when it departs from Tocat to Smyrna, and this is the only place in all the Road where a Traveller ought to ſtand upon his guard; by reaſon of Thieves who haunt theſe Quarters, and are great Maſters in their Trade. Once as I came out of Perſia they would needs give me a taſt of their Art, notwithſtanding all the care I took. There were three or four of us that would needs ride before with our Servants to Taquibac, in expectation of the Caravan which was to come the next day; where we ſet up our Tents upon the Bank of a ſmall River. I had then a good many Bales of Wool, with which I made as it were a double Wall about my Tent: ſo that there was but one paſſage between the Bales, for one Man. In four of theſe Bales I had a quantity of Musk in lead'n Boxes, to the value of ten or twelve thouſand Crowns: which Bales I put within-ſide, ſo that they touch'd the Tent and my Beds-head. Next Night, it being very dark, the Thieves came, and finding the outward Bales ſmell ſo ſtrong of Musk, they thought one of thoſe Bales would be a conſiderable Booty. The Bales were all ty'd together with a Cord that kept them faſt; nor was it eaſie to undo them, without a noiſe. They wak'd me with their buſtle at firſt, and I ſent out my Servants to ſee if they could catch them; but they will lye ſo cloſe upon their Bellies, that in ſuch a dark Night as that was 'tis impoſſible to diſcover them. Thereupon my Servants went to ſleep again, and the Thieves to their Work; and having with a great deal of ingenuity cut the Cord, they carried away the two Bales. In the Morning four or five of us with a Camel-driver for our Guide purſu'd them, and in half an hour we met with the marks of the Robbery; for the Rogues being mad that they found nothing but Wool, which they thought to be of no great value, ſcatter'd it in the High-way for two or three Leagues together: ſo that I caus'd it to be pickt up again, and loſt not above fifteen or twenty Pound. I ſpeak this to caution the Marchants that carry Bales of Silk or other rich Commodities, to beware of theſe Thieves; for they will come creeping upon their Bellies, and then cutting the Bales with great Razors, will preſently empty a Bale of one half of the Goods.

'Tis true, the Wool was of no great value for their uſe; but it was a ſort of rare and very fine Wool, which I carry'd out of Perſia to Paris, where ſuch fine Wool was never ſeen. As to the place where it is to be had, I met with one of the Gaures, or Perſians that adore the Fire, who when I was at Iſpahan in the year 1647 ſhew'd me a Sample of it, and inform'd me that the greateſt part of this Wool comes from the Province of Kerman, which is the ancient Caramania; and that the beſt Wool is to be met with in the Mountains that are next to the City, that bears the name of the Province: That the Sheep in thoſe Parts have this particular property, that when they have fed upon new Graſs from January till May, the Fleece falls off of it ſelf, and leaves the Sheep naked, and their Skins ſmooth, like a Pig's that is ſcalded off; ſo that there is no need of ſhearing them, as with us: after they have gather'd it, they beat it, and the courſe Wool breaking, the fine only remains. That if you tranſport it, before you make it into Bales, you muſt throw Salt-water upon it, which keeps the Worms out of it, and preſerves it from rotting. Now you muſt take notice that they never dye this Wool, it being naturally of a clear Brown, or a dark Aſh-colour; and that there is very little of it White, which is alſo much dearer than the other, as well for that it is ſcarce, as becauſe that the Mufti's, the Moullah's and other perſons belonging to the Law never wear any Girdles or Vails (wherewith they cover their Heads when they pray) but White: for at other times they wear them about their Necks, as the Women do their Scarfs.

Into this Province of Kerman almoſt all the Gaures are retir'd, and they are they that only Trade in this Wool, and have the whole Manufacture of it. They make thoſe Girdles of it which they uſe in Perſia; and ſome Pieces of Serge, which are almoſt as fine and tranſparent, as if they were of Silk. I brought over two Pieces into France, and preſented one to the late Queen Mother, the other to the Princeſs of Orleance.

I could not drive any Trade in this Wool till the year 1654, returning out of the Indies by Sea from Sura • to Ormus. To which purpoſe, I departed from Ormus, and took Guides along with me to ſhew me the way to Kerman, whither I could not get on Horſeback in leſs than twenty-ſeven days. I dare ſay that Alexander the Great did not march this way into the Indies: for in the whole extent of the Country there is no Water to be met with but in ſome certain places, and in the hollow of ſome Rocks, where there is not enough neither to water eight or ten Horſes. Beſides, in ſome places a man is conſtrain'd, by reaſon of the Mountains, to fetch a great compaſs about; for a Foot-man that makes his way through thoſe Rocks, ſhall go farther in half an hour than a Horſe-man can do in four.

Kerman is a large City, which has been often ruin'd by being ſeveral times taken and re-taken; nor is there any thing handſom in it, but only one Houſe and a Garden, upon which the laſt Kans have beſtow'd a vaſt expence to make the place delightful. They make there a ſort of Earthen ware which comes very near to Porcelan, and looks as neat and as fine. As ſoon as I arriv'd, I went to viſit the Kan, who made me very welcom, and gave order to the Gaures to furniſh me with Bread and Wine, Pullets and Pigeons, which in thoſe parts are fat, and as large as little Capons. The Gaures are they that make the Wine; and to make it more ſweet and pleaſant, they take away the Stalks, and never preſs any thing but the meer Grape.

The Kan was but newly entred into the poſſeſſion of his Government, and being deſirous, according to the cuſtom of the new Governours, to have a noble Sword and Dagger, with a rich Furniture of his Horſe, which requir'd ſome Jewels, I preſented him with a Diamond worth eight hundred Crowns, which he caus'd to be ſet in the end of the handle of his Dagger. He alſo deſir'd to have of me as many more Jewels as came to ſeven or eight hundred Livres: and by the Preſent and the Bargain I facilitated my purchaſe of the Wool which I intended to buy. Two days afteer he invited me to his Entry-Feaſt, which he made for the cheif of the City; and knowing I wanted a Mule, he ſent me one well worth a hundred Crowns. This is the Nobleſt Carriage in all Perſia, which the great Perſonages chooſe before Horſes, eſpecially when they are in years. But it was not the Kan alone who was civil to me. A young Lord, who liv'd in Kerman, and was at the Feaſt, whoſe Father had been formerly Kan himſelf, took great delight to diſcourſe with me concerning my Travels; and offer'd me his ſervice in a very obliging manner. Now the Perſians are very curious, and great admirers of the Rarities of Forein Countries: which inclination led the young Lord to enquire of me whether I had any Fire-Arms, telling me he would content me for them to my ſatisfaction. The next Morning I preſented him with a Carbine, and a pair of Piſtols that pleas'd him exceedingly; and a little Watch, for which I would take no Money, whereat he ſeem'd to be not a little troubl'd. However he ſent me a ſtately Horſe worth about two hundred Crowns, or twelve Tomans. This young Lord was of a clear humour, civil, accompliſh'd, generous, and did every thing with a good grace. So that when he ſent me the Horſe, he ſent to entreat me withal, if I did not like that Horſe, to come and chooſe which I lik'd beſt in his Stable.

By the favour of this Lord and the Kan, I made good the Purchaſe that I intended. For the People began to murmur (knowing what a Parcel I had got together) and told the Kan that I would carry away all the Cloth out of the Country, ſo that they ſhould have none to ſet the Poor on work. Thereupon the Kan ſent for me, and for thoſe reaſons told me I muſt buy no more. To ſend off the blow, I made anſwer, That it was the King of Perſia's deſire to try if we could make as fine Cloth of his Wool in France, as they did in England and Holland; and that if-it ſucceeded, I ſhould bring French Workmen into Perſia, and ſo by ſettling the Trade in his own Country, free him from the Charge of forein Manufacturers. This ſilenc'd the Kan, ſo that I ſtill bargain'd for more. But when I was return'd to Iſpahan, the People of the Country would not keep touch with me. However, I wrote ſo home to the Kan, threatning withal to complain to the King, that he fearing the King's diſpleaſure, forc'd the Natives to ſend me my Bargain to Iſpahan.

CHAP. IX. Of the Road from Kerman to Iſpahan; and the Fortune of Nazar Mahomet-Ali-Beg.

FRom Kerman to Iſpahan is no leſs than five and twenty days on Horſeback. In thoſe places where there is any Water, the Conntry is very good; but thoſe places are very rare; for the Road is generally Sandy, and offenſive to the Eyes. The Chiefeſt comfort to a Fraveller is, that every Evening he meets with an Inn, where there are Ciſterns, which is a great refreſhment in thoſe deſert Countries. The moſt part of thoſe Inns were built ſome Years ſince by the ſpecial care of Mahomet-Ali-Beg Nazar, or Grand Maſter of the King's Houſe and Treaſury; a Perſon the moſt Virtuous of any that Perſia can boaſt of for many Years. He was Generous, and favour'd the Franks in all things, for he lov'd them exceedingly. He faithfully ſerv'd his King, and defended the People againſt the Oppreſſion and Inſolencies of the Great ones; which drew upon him the hatred of many: but ſtill he preſerv'd himſelf by his ſyncerity and prudence; as by the following Story will remarkably appear.

The Great Sha-Abas the Firſt, being one day a Hunting in the Mountains far out of ſight from his followers, met a young Lad playing upon a Pipe by an Herd of Goats. The King asking him ſome Queſtions, he anſwer'd him to the purpoſe to every one, not knowing who he was. The King ſurpriz'd at his Repartees, made a ſign to Iman-couli-Kan Governour of Schiras, who was juſt come up to him, not to tell the Goat-herd who he was. After that he proceeded to ask him other Queſtions; to which the young man anſwer'd ſo ſmartly, that the King could not chooſe but ſtand in an amaze. Thereupon the King ask'd the Kan what he thought of the Goat-herds Wit? Who anſwer'd, that he believ'd if the Boy were taught to Write and Read, he might do good ſervice to his Majeſty. Upon that the King immediately caus'd him to be ſent to School, where the young Lad being naturally of a ſolid Wit, clear Judgment, and happy Memory, grew ſo accompliſh'd, and ſo well acquitted himſelf of ſeveral Employments which his Majeſty beſtow'd upon him, that the King advanc'd him to the Office of Nazar, or Grand Maſter of the Houſe, and did him the honour to call him Mahomet-Ali-Beg. The King obſerving his fidelity, and good management of all things, ſent him twice Ambaſſador to the Great Mogul, and both times was extreamly pleas'd with his Negotiation. Mahomet lov'd Juſtice, and would not ſtoop to be corrupted by Preſents: A thing which is very rare among the Mahumetans. This great Integrity of his made all the Lords of the Court his Enemies, eſpecially the Eunuchs and the Women, who have always the King's Ear. But while Sha-Abas liv'd, there was no perſon that durſt open his lips againſt the Nazar, ſo much was he in favour, and that juſtly, with the King. Sha-Sefi ſucceeding his Grandfather Sha-Abas, and being very young, the Nazar's Adverſaries thought they had now a fair Game to play. Thereupon the Eunuchs, who are always at the King's Ear, ſuggeſted to him many things to the diſadvantage of the Grand Maſter; but whatever they ſaid, the King gave little heed to their Tales. At length, one day when the King was looking upon certain Skains and Daggers ſet with precious Stones, one of the Eunuchs told him thoſe were trifles, and then deſir'd his Majeſty to ſend for a Scimeter that the Grand Signor had ſent Sha-Abas, all over ſet with Diamonds. True it is, that the Grand Signor had ſent a rich Scimiter toSha-Abas; but Sha-Abas had defac'd it long before Mahomet's time, and had made a noble Jewel of the Stones that adorn'd it. Thereupon this Scimitar was ſought for in the Treaſury, where Mahomet was chief Officer; but not being to be found, the King was troubl'd, finding it regiſtred in the Book of Preſents. Then certain Eunuchs and Grandees of the Court took their opportunity to rip up Mahomet's Life; they repreſented to the King how many Inns, Bridges, and Dikes Mahomet had built at his own charge; what a Houſe he had rear'd for himſelf, fitting for his Majeſty to live in: and aggravated withal, that he could not do ſuch great things as thoſe, without purloining notably from the Publick Stock; for which he ſhould do well to call him to an account. As they were thus diſcourſing, Mahomet came into the Preſence, to whom the King (not receiving him as he was wont to do) ſpoke ſome hard words about the Scimiter that could not be found: telling him withal, that he would ſee if the all reſt of the things in the Treaſury were agreeable to the Regiſter, and then gave him fifteen days time to give in his Account. Mahomet not at all mov'd, reply'd to the King, that if his Majeſty pleas'd he might come to the Treaſury to morrow: and withal beſought him ſo to do, though the King a ſecond time gave him fifteen days. Thereupon the King did go to the Treaſury next morning, according to Mahomet's deſire, and found all things in good order; having heard before what became of the Scimiter. From thence he went to Mahomet s Houſe, who made the King a mean Preſent: For it is the cuſtom, that he whom the King honours with a Viſit, muſt make a Preſent to his Majeſty. After the King had receiv'd it, he walk'd up and down, and viewed the Chambers, Halls, Parlours and Rooms of State; and wonder'd to ſee them ſo ill ſet out with plain Felts, and courſe Carpets; whereas in other Lords Houſes a man could not ſet his Foot upon any thing but Cloth of Gold and Silk. For the King, as they had ſet the Nazar out, expected to have found other things; which made him admire at ſo great a Moderation in ſo high a degree of Honour. Now at the end of a Gallery, there was a Door lockt with three great Padlocks. Of this the King took no notice: whereupon the Meter, who is the White Eunuch, and chief of his Chamber, as he came back, ſhew'd the King the Door that was ſo ſtrongly Padlock'd; which made the King ſo curious to have it open'd: withal, asking Mahomet what he had got there lock'd up with ſo much care? Oh Sir, ſaid he, it behoves me to keep that lockt, for there is all the Eſtate I have in the World. All that your Majeſty has ſeen in this Houſe is yours, but all that is in that Chamber is mine, and I dare aſſure my ſelf, your Majeſty will be ſo gaacious as never to take it from me. Thoſe words inflam'd the King's curioſity ſo, that he commanded the Door to be open'd: But he was ſtrangely ſurpriz'd, when he ſaw nothing more within than Mahomet's Sheep-hook, that lay upon two Nails, his Scrip wherein he us'd to put his Victuals, his Bottle for his Water, his Pipe, and his Shepherd's Weeds, all hanging againſt the Wall. The Nazar beholding the King's aſtoniſhment at ſuch a Sight, Sir, ſaid he, when the King Sha-Abas • ound me in the Mountain keeping Goats, then that was all I had, and he took nothing from me: I beſeech your Majeſty that you would not deprive me of theſe things neither; but rather, if you pleaſe, let me reſume them again, and fall to my old calling. The Kin • touch'd at ſo high a piece of Virtue, caus'd himſelf to be diſapparel'd, and gave his Habit to the Nazar, which is the greateſt Honour that the King of Perſia can beſtow upon a Subject. Thus Mahomet continu'd and dy'd honourably in his Employment. This brave Perſon was the Protector of all the Franks in Perſia: and if any one had done them wrong, upon complaint he did them Juſtice immediately. One day as I was ſhooting Ducks, upon the River of Iſpahan near the Nazar's Gardens, with two Servants, ſome of the Nazar's people that did not know me ſet upon me, and would have taken away my Gun; which I would not let go till I had broke the Stock about the Shoulders of the one, and f • ung the Barrel at the other's Head. Thereupon I took ſome of the Franks along with me, and complain'd to the Nazar: He teſtifi'd his ſorrow for what had happen'd, and gave us evident Proofs thereof, by the blows which he caus'd to be laid upon thoſe that had done me the injury.

Another time, Sha-Sefi being upon his return from Guilan, his Tents were ſet up near Zulfa in Armenia, where the King ſtaid to hunt two or three days. Now among the reſt of the Courtizans that follow'd the Court, to divertiſe the King with Dancing and Mummery, there was one who was perfectly handſom, to whom the King had already ſent Preſents; which could not be unknown to any Lord i'the Court. But the Nazar's Son, for all that, being in the heat of Youth, got this Courtizan to his Tent, and there lay with her: which came to his Father's Ears next day. The Nazar, whether out of his zeal to the King, or whether it were an effect of his prudence to prevent the King's anger, which would have certainly been the death of his Son, caus'd him to be drub'd, after the manner of the Country, and baſtinado'd all over, till the Nails of his Toes dropt off, and that his Body was almoſt a perfect Gelly. Which when the King underſtood, together with the Young Man's Crime, he ſaid no more, but that the Nazar had done wiſely by puniſhing his Son himſelf, to prevent his Juſtice.

But to return to the Road from Kerman to Iſpahan. The firſt day that I ſet out from Kerman, at my Stage in the Evening I met with a rich Moullah, who ſeeing I had Wine, civilly offer'd me ſome of his Ice to cool it. In retaliation, I gave him ſome of my Bottle. He invited me to his Houſe, which was well built, with a handſom Garden with Water in it. He entertain'd me with Spoon-meat, according to the mode of the Country; and when I took my leave, he fill'd my Baracho with very good Wine.

The following days I ſaw nothing worthy obſervation; the Country being as I have already deſcrib'd it.

Yezd lyes in the Road, almoſt in the mid-way between Kerman and Iſpahan, in 93 Deg. 15 Min. of Longitude, and 13 Deg. 45 Min. of Latitude. It is a great Town in the middle of the Sands, that extend themſelves for two Leagues round it: ſo that when you leave Yezd you muſt take a Guide, for upon the leaſt Wind the Sand covers the Highway, whereby a man may be apt to fall into Holes, which ſeem to have been either old Ciſterns, or the Ruines of ancient Buildings. Between the Town and the Sands there is a little good Soil, which produces excellent Fruits, but above all, Melons of ſeveral ſorts: the Pulp of ſome is green, of others yellow and vermilion; and ſome there are, the meat whereof is as hard as a Renneting. There are alſo very good▪ Grapes, and good Wine; but the Governour will not permit the Inhabitants to make Wine. Some therefore they dry, and of the reſt they make a kind of Confection to eat with Bread. There are alſo abundance of Figs, which are large and well taſted. They diſtil vaſt quantities of Roſe-water, and another ſort of Water with which they dye their Hands and Nails red, which they ſqueeze out of a certain Root call'd Hina. There are three Inns i'th▪ City, and ſeveral Bazars or Market-places cover'd and vaulted, which are full of Merchants and Workmens Ware-houſes. They alſo make at Yezd ſeveral Stuffs of Silk intermix'd with Gold and Silver, which they call Zerbaſte; and another ſort of Stuff of all pure Silk, call'd Daraï, like our ſmooth ſtrip'd Taffata's. Other Stuffs they made, half Silk half Cotton; others all of Cotton, like our Fuſtians. They make alſo Serges of a particular Wool, which is ſo fine and delicate, that it looks handſomer, and is much better than Silk.

Though I had nothing to do, I ſtaid in Yezd three days, becauſe I met with ſome Armenians of my acquaintance. In which time I found the general Opinion to be true. For certainly the Women of Yezd are the handſomeſt Women in all Perſia. There is no Feaſt made, but five or ſix of them come to divertiſe the Gueſts with Dancing, who are generally none of the meaneſt Beauties and Converſations among them. However it comes to paſs, the Perſian Proverb is, That to live happy, a Man muſt have a Wiſe of Yezd, eat the Bread of Yezdecas, and drink the Wine of Schiras.

CHAP. X. Of the Caravanſera's, and Government of the Caravans.

THE Caravanſera's are the Eaſtern Inns, far different from ours; for they are neither ſo convenient, nor ſo handſom. They are built ſquare, much like Cloyſters, being uſually but one Story high; for it is rare to ſee one of two Stories, A wide Gate brings you into the Court; and in the midſt of the Building, in the front, and upon the right and leſt hand, there is a Hall for Perſons of the beſt Quality to keep together. On each ſide of the Hall are Lodgings for every man by himſelf. Theſe Lodgings are rais'd all along the Court two or three Steps high, juſt behind which are the Stables, where many times it is as good lying as in the Chamber. Some will rather lye there in the Winter, becauſe they are warm, and are roof'd as well as the Chambers. Right againſt the Head of every Horſe there is a Nich with a Window into the Lodging-Chamber, out of which every man may ſee how his Horſe is look'd after. Theſe Niches are uſually ſo large, that three men may lye in them; and there it is that the Servants uſually dreſs their Victuals.

There are two ſorts of Inns. For ſome are endow'd; where you may be receiv'd for Charities ſake; others, where you muſt pay for what you call for. There are none of the firſt, but between Buda and Conſtantinople. Nor is it lawful for any others to build ſuch, but only the Mothers and Siſters of the Grand Signor, or ſuch Viziers, and Baſha's as have been three times in Battel againſt the Chriſtians. In theſe Inns, which are built out of Legacies, there is a very good allowance of Diet to Travellers▪ and at your departure you have nothing to do but to thank the Benefactor. But from Conſtantinople to Perſia, there are none of thoſe endow'd Inns; only ſuch where you have nothing but bare Walls. It is for you to provide Utenſils for your Kitchin, and a Bed to lye on: as for Proviſion, the people bring Lambs, Pullets, Butter, and Fruits in their ſeaſons: or elſe you may buy it, provided before-hand by the Maſter of the Houſe. There you alſo meet with Barley and Straw for the Horſes, unleſs it be in ſome few places that I have been at upon the Road. In the Country you pay nothing for your Chambers; but in the Cities you pay ſomething, though it be but a ſmall matter. Uſually the Caravans never go into the Towns, which are not able to contain ſo many People and Horſes. When you come to your Quarters every one looks after his own Chamber, for there is no regard to Poor or Rich: ſometimes out of Breeding, or out of Intereſt, an ordinary Tradeſman will give way to a great Merchant; but no man is permitted to leave the Chamber which he has once made choice of. In the night the Inn-keeper ſhuts up his Gates, being anſwerable for all things that ſhall be loſt; for which reaſon he keeps a Guard about the Inn.

As for the Perſian Caravanſera's, they are more commodious, and better built than thoſe of Turkie, and at more reaſonable diſtances, throughout almoſt all the Country. By which deſcription of Inns it is eaſie to obſerve, that though theſe Caravanſera's are not ſo commodious for the Rich as our European Inns, yet they are more convenient for the Poor, to whom they never refuſe to give admittance: no perſon being oblig'd to eat or drink more than he pleaſes; but every one being allow'd to ſpend according to his Stock, without grumbling.

You may travel in Turkie or Perſia, either with the Caravan, or elſe in company, ten or twelve together, or elſe alone with a Guide. The ſafeſt way is to go with the Caravan, though you are longer upon the Road, by reaſon of the ſlowneſs of their march, eſpecially when the Caravans conſiſt of Camels.

The Caravans are as it were great Convoys, which conſiſt of a good number of Merchants, that meet at certain times and places, to put themſelves into a condition to defend themſelves from Thieves, that are very riſe in Troops in ſeveral deſert places upon the Road. Theſe Merchants chooſe among themſelves a Caravan-Baſhi, who orders them how they ſhall march, aſſigns the places of lodging at night, and who with the chief of the Caravan, is a kind of Judge of the differences that fall out by the way. There is no honeſt man that covets the employment; for the Caravan-Baſhi, being to diſcharge ſeveral ſmall duties upon the Road, however he behave himſelf, is ſtill ſuſpected for his fidelity. When the Turks are moſt numerous, they make choice of a Turk; when the Armenian Merchants are moſt, they chooſe an Armenian.

There are two forts of Caravans. There are Caravans which conſiſt of Camels, which are the moſt uſual; in regard that Camels are cheap, and for that ſome Camels will carry as much as three Horſes, others as much as four or five. But among the Caravans of Camels, there are ſeveral Horſes and Mules, which the Merchants themſelves ride upon; it being very tedious to ride upon a Camel when he only goes a foot-pace, but very pleaſant when he goes upon his large trot. There are other Caravans that conſiſt only of Horſes; and among theſe, if the Merchant have none of his own, he may hire one. The Servants ride upon thoſe Horſes that are leaſt laden; but at Smyrna you may meet with ſeveral good Horſes very cheap, from thirty to ſixty Crowns. As for thoſe perſons that are either unwilling or unable to be at any expence, they make uſe of Aſſes, of which there are enow to be had. Above all things, you muſt take care to provide Pack-Horſes to carry your Wine; for the Camel-Maſters being Mahometans, will not permit you to lade their Camels with any ſuch Liquor; that Beaſt being particularly conſecrated to Mahomet, who ſo ſtrictly forbad the uſe of Wine. You put your Wine in Bottles made of wild Goats Skins, with the hairy ſide turn'd innermoſt, and well pitch'd within. There are ſome of theſe Bottles from which they take off the Hair; but they are not ſo good, as being ſeldom without holes.

Theſe Camel-Maſters are an inſolent ſort of people, which you ſhall never know how to deal with, unleſs you can bring them to puniſhment. There was one that play'd me ſome of his jades tricks in the Road from Smyrna to Tauris; but when I came to Eſcrivan, I complain'd to the Kan, who preſently caus'd a hundred Baſtinado's to be giv'n him upon the ſpot. Nor is there any other way to bring thoſe Scoundrels to reaſon, eſpecially at Smyrna and ſuch other places, where the Merchants have their Conſuls, who upon the leaſt complaint to the Cady have Juſtice done them immediately. The examples of ſome of theſe Camel-drivers that have been paid off, keep the reſt in good decorum; and they will be very tractable for a good while after.

The Journies of the Caravans are not equal; ſometimes not above ſix hours travel, ſometimes ten, and ſometimes twelve; it being the convenience of Water, which is not every where to be met with, that is the Rule of Lodging the Caravan. At all times the Caravan travels more by night than by day; in Summer to avoid the heat, and at other times, that you may be ſure to have day enough to ſet up your Tents. For if the Caravan ſhould come to pitch in the night, it would be impoſſible for them to find where to ſet up their Tents, to dreſs and look after their Beaſts, make ready their Kitchins, and provide things neceſſary for ſo large a Company. True it is, that in the depth of Winter and in the great Snows, they ſeldom ſet out till two or three hours after midnight; and that ſometimes they ſtay till day-break. But in Summer, according to the Journey which they intend, they ſet out either at midnight, or an hour after Sun-ſet. The laſt time I went from Smyrna the Caravan conſiſted of ſix hundred Camels, and almoſt the ſame number of Horſe. Sometimes their number is greater, ſo that the Camels going but by one and one after another, a Caravan ſeems to be an Army; and whether it be in travelling or lodging, they take up a world of Ground. Now by reaſon they travel all night in Aſia, it happens that the Air is indifferent wholſom; and that the Travellers, that lye for the moſt part upon a Carpet ſpread upon the Ground, find themſelves very little inconvenienc'd by it.

The Camels that go into Perſia through the Northern Provinces of Turkie, travel like Horſes in a Cart, by ſeven and ſeven; they are ty'd together by a Cord about the bigneſs of a Man's little Finger, and a Fathom long; faſten'd to the Packſaddle of the Camel that goes before, and to the Head-harneſs of the Camel that follows. Thoſe little Cords are made no ſtronger, to the end that if the Camel before ſhould chance to fall into any hole, the Camel behind ſhould either keep him up, or elſe not be pull'd in after the other. And to the end that the Camel-driver who leads the foremoſt, may know whether the other ſix follow him or no, the laſt Camel has a Bell about his Neck, which if it ceaſe to ring, 'tis a ſign that ſome one of the ſmall Cords is broken, and that a Camel has got a miſchance. The ſeventh Camel generally carries the Proviſions. For if a Merchant have ſix Camels laden, he is generally allow'd one to carry his Proviſion; if he have but three, he is allow'd but half a Camel's load; but if he have nine or twelve, he pays nothing for the carriage of his Proviſions of Food, or any thing elſe that he pleaſes. Every Merchant with his Servants rides by the Camels that are laden with his Goods, eſpecially in the dark nights; for there are a ſubtil ſort of Thieves, that have a trick to cut the two Cords behind and before, and without any noiſe drive the Camel out of the way; for having no Hoofs, his Feet cannot be ſhod, and conſequently he makes no noiſe. As well Merchants, as others, Camel-drivers and Servants, keep themſelves from ſleeping ſometimes by ſinging, and ſometimes by taking Tobacco, and ſometimes by diſcourſe.

The Caravan lyes in ſuch places as they think moſt convenient, chiefly near to the Water-ſide. When the Sun is ſet, the Shaoux, who are a ſort of poor people, are diligent to guard the whole Field, and take care of the Goods. They walk up and down, and either in the Arabian or Armenian Dialect they cry one to another, God is one, and he is merciful; adding from time to time, Have a care of your ſelf. When they ſee that the time grows near to ſet out, they give notice to the Caravan-Baſhi, who gives order to bid them cry, Saddle your Horſes; and after that, to cry again, Load. And it is a ſtrange thing to conſider, that upon the ſecond Cry of the Shaoux every thing is ready upon an inſtant, and the Caravan begins to ſet forward in great order and great ſilence. Every one takes care to be ready, for it is dangerous to be left behind, eſpecially in thoſe Countries which are haunted with Thieves. The Wages of theſe▪ Shaoux is the fourth part of a Piaſter for a Bale from Smyrna to Erivan.

When the Stages are long, and that they believe that they ſhall not get thither by ten or twelve in the morning, every one carries two ſmall Wallets on each ſide his Horſe, and when they come to the place where they intend to Break-faſt, they ſpread a Carpet upon the Ground and fall to.

When you go from Conſtantinople, Smyrna, or Aleppo with the Caravan, it behoves all people to carry themſelves according to the mode of the Country; in Turkie like a Turk, in Perſia as a Perſian; elſe would they be accounted ridiculous, nay ſometimes they would hardly be permitted to paſs in ſome places, where the leaſt miſcarriage makes the Governours jealous, who are eaſily perſwaded to take Strangers for Spies. Always, if you have upon the Road but an Arabian Veſt, with a mean Girdle, whatever Clothes you wear under, there is no danger of paſſing any where. If you wear a Turbant, you muſt of neceſſity ſhave off your Hair, elſe it will never ſtay upon the Head. As for Beards, they never mind them in Turkie, the greateſt being accounted the handſomeſt; but in Perſia they ſhave their Chins, and wear their Muſtaches: and I remember I have ſeen one of the King of Perſia's Porters, whoſe Muſtaches were ſo long, that he could tye them behind his neck, for which reaſon he had a double Penſion. More than that, you muſt provide your ſelf of Boots according to the cuſtom of the Country: they are made of red, yellow, or black Cordovan, lin'd with Linen cloth; and in regard they never reach higher than the Knee, they are as convenient to travel in as Shooes. As for Spurs, they never wear any; for the Iron at the upper end of the Stirrop, which is four-ſquare, ſerves to ſpur the Horſe: ſo much the better, becauſe it is the cuſtom of all Aſia to ride very ſhort.

Before you ſet out, you muſt provide your ſelf of ſeveral Houſhold-Goods, eſpecially of thoſe Bottles that are call'd Matares, which are made of Bulgary-Leather; every man carries his own at the Pummel of his Saddle, or elſe faſten'd to the Crupper of the Saddle behind. Beſides theſe you muſt buy Borracho's; the moſt ſerviceable things in the World; for they will never break, and will hold above fifty Pints at a time. The ſmaller Bottles ſerve to put Aqua-vitae in: and the Leather whereof they are made, has that peculiar to it ſelf, that it keeps the Water freſh. Then you muſt provide Food, and make a proviſion of Rice and Bisket as far as Tocat: For as for Pullets, Eggs, and ſuch like things, you meet with them almoſt every where; as alſo with Proviſion for your. Horſes, and new Bread, unleſs in ſome few places. You muſt alſo carry a Tent with all its appurtenances, with a Mattreſs; and Clothes to cover the Horſes at night, eſpecially in the time of the deep Snows, wherein you ſhall find them almoſt buried the next morning.

When the Caravan comes near the place where it intends to ſtop, every Merchant rides before to take up a convenient place for himſelf and his Goods, for which he covets a riſing Ground, that if it ſhould happen to rain, the Water may run from the Bales. They alſo in that caſe lay Stones under the Bales, and a Cloth over them; and the Servants make a Ditch about the Tent for the Water to run into. But if it be fair weather, there is no care tak'n to ſet up the Tent: or if it be, 'tis folded up after Supper; to the end the Owners may have the more liberty to look about them, and may be in a better condition to look after the Thieves. But if there be any likelihood of foul weather, the Tent is let ſtand till the firſt Cry of the Shaoux. The Horſes are ty'd before the▪ Tent with Cords faſten'd to a Nail, and their hinder Legs are ty'd with other Cords, to the end they may not ſtir out of their places. If it be not ſeaſonable for them to eat Graſs, you muſt buy Barley, and Straw of the Country-men that come to ſerve the Caravan, their being no Oats neither in Turkis nor Perſia.

In dreſſing your Victuals, you muſt follow the cuſtom of the Country; which is, to make a Hole in the Ground, and then kindling a Fire in it, to ſet the Pot over it.

But the greateſt inconvenience which Trevellers ſuffer with the Caravans is this, that when they come▪ Waters, which are only Wells, or Ciſterns, or Springs, where only two or three lade up Water at a time. For after▪ the Caravan is lodg'd, the Merchants ſhall be forc'd to ſtay for Water two or three hours together; for they that belong to the Beaſts of Carriage, will not ſuffer any perſon to take any Water, till the Camels, Horſes, Aſſes, and Mules are all ſerv'd. Nor is there any contending with theſe Camel-drivers and Muleters; for as they are a rude ſort of people, a Man runs the hazard of his Life by conteſting alone: of which one Example may ſuffice for all.

Setting out one day from Bander-Abaſſi, for Iſpahan, with a Merchant of Babylon, as we came to the Inn where we lay the firſt night, which was call'd Guetchy▪ the Merchant commanded one of his Slaves who was a Cafer of Mozambique, to fetch him ſome freſh Water at the Ciſtern, to drink: The Cafer went thither, and return'd without any Water, telling his Maſter, that the Camel-drivers and Muleters threaten'd to beat him, and would not let him come near the Ciſtern. The Merchant either ill advis'd, or not knowing the cuſtom, bid him go back, and kick thoſe that refus'd him. Whereupon the Cafer returning, and finding the ſame reſiſtance as before, began to give ill language to the Camel-drivers, ſo that one of them happen'd to ſtrike him. Upon that the Cafer drawing his Sword, ran him into the Belly, ſo that he fell down dead: Thereupon the whole Rabble fell upon him, bound him, and carry'd him back to Bander-Abaſſi for the Governour to put him to death. The Maſter of the Cafer, accompany'd by ſeveral Merchants, went to the Governour and repreſented to him the inſolence of thoſe people, and how the buſineſs had happen'd. Upon which the Governour took the poor fellow out of their hands, and caus'd him to be kept ſafe; after that, he caus'd ten or a dozen of thoſe Muleters to be ſeiz'd, and orderd'd them to be ſoundly baſtinado'd, for hindring a Merchant's Servant from fetching Water for his Maſter. He alſo put others in Priſon; who had not been releas'd ſo ſoon, but at the requeſt of thoſe Merchants whoſe Goods they carry'd, and who ſtood in need of their ſervice. The Governour▪ ſpun out the buſineſs, on purpoſe that the reſt might be gone: but as ſoon as they were all departed except the two Brothers of the party ſlain, he told them, he could not do them Juſtice, becauſe their Brother belong'd to Schiras; ſo that all that he could do, was to ſend the Criminal thither. The Maſter of the Cafer being rich, and loving the Slave, made haſt to Schiras, to tell his Story firſt to the Kan. And I remember, two days jourey yon this ſide Schiras we met in the High way abundance of poor people, the kindred of the party ſlain, who were ſtaying for the Cafer, to carry him before the Kan, and to demand Juſtice. Two o • three Leagues alſo from Schiras I met the Father and Mother, together with the Wife and Children of the deceas'd, who ſeeing me paſs along, fell at my Feet and recounted to me their Grievances. I told them by my Kalmachi, that their beſt and ſureſt way was to take a piece of Money of the Cafer's Maſter, and ſo to put up the buſineſs. This Propoſal, that would have been accepted in Chriſtendom, was rejected by thoſe poor Mahometans; in ſo much that the Father tore his Beard, and the Women their Hair, crying out, That if it were the cuſtom of the Franks to ſeil the Blood of their Kindred, it was not their cuſtom ſo to do. When the reſt of the kindred came with the Cafer to Schiras, the Kan did all he could to perſuade the Widow to take Money; but not being able to over-rule her, he was forc'd to give the Cafer into their hands: and how they us'd him I cannot tell, being conſtrain'd at the ſame time to pais from Schiras for Iſpahan.

CHAP. XI. Of the breeding, nature, and ſeveral ſorts of Camels.

THE Female Camel bears her Burthen eleven Months; and her Milk is a ſovereign Remedy againſt the Dropſie. You muſt drink a Pint of it every Day for three Weeks together: and I have ſeen ſeveral Cures wrought thereby at Balſara, Ormus, and in other places in the Perſian Gulf, upon ſeveral Engliſh and Holland Mariners.

So ſoon as a Camel comes into the World, they ſold his Feet under his Belly, and make him lye upon them; after that they cover his Back with a Carpet that hangs to the Ground, laying Stones upon each ſide▪ ſo that he may not be able to riſe; and thus they leave him for fifteen or twenty days. In the mean time they give him Milk to drink, but not very often; to the end he may be accuſtom'd to drink little. This they do alſo to uſe them to lye down, when they go about to Lade them; at which time they will fold their Legs and lye down ſo obediently, that it is an admirable thing to conſider. So ſoon as the Caravan comes to the place where it is to lye, all the Camels that belong to one Maſter will range themſelves in a Circle, and lye down upon their fore Feet; ſo that • is but untying one Cord that holds the Bales, and they will ſlide off gently from each ſide of the Camel. When 'tis time to lade again, the ſame Camel comes and crouches down between the two Burthens, and when they are faſten'd, gently riſes up with the Burthen again; which is done without any trouble or noiſe. When the Camels are unladen, they let them go afield to feed upon the Heath and Buſhes, and half an hour before Sun ſet they return of themſelves, unleſs any one happen to wander, which they will call again with a certain Cry which is natural to them. When they return, they range themſelves in a Circle, and the Muleters give to every one little Balls of Barleymeal kneaded, as big as two Fiſts. The Camel though he be of a large bulk, eats very little, contented with what he meets with upon the Heaths; where he more eſpecially looks for Thiſtles, of which he is a great lover. But it is more admirable to conſider with what patience they▪ endure drowth: For one time that I croſs'd over the Deſerts, where we were 65 days upon the Road, our Camels were nine days without Drink. But what is more wonderful is this, that when the Camel is in the heat of Generation, he neither eats nor drinks for 40 days together; and he is then ſo furious, that without great care you cannot avoid being bitten by him: And whereever he bites, he carries away a piece of the Fleſh. At that time iſſues out of their Mouths a white Foam, beſides that there appears on each ſide of their Chops two Bladders large and ſwell'd, like the Bladder of a Boar.

In the Spring time all the Camel's Hair falls off in three days. The Skin remains bare, and then the Flies are very troubleſom. There is no way but to Tar them all over▪ though it be a ventrous thing to come near them at that time.

A Camel muſt be dreſt as well as a Horſe; but the Camel keeper never uſes any Curry-comb, but only beats him all over with a ſmall Wand, as Carpets are wont to be duſted. If a Camel be hurt or gall'd under the Pack▪ ſaddle, they never apply any thing to it, but only waſh it well with Urine, without uſing any other Remedy.

There are two ſorts of Camels; the one which is proper for hot Countries, the other for cold Countries.

The Camels in hot Countries, ſuch as go from Ormus to Iſpaehan, cannot travel if the Ground be dirty and ſlippery; for their Belldies burſt, while their hinder Quarters rive from their Bodies. Theſe are ſmall Camels, that carry not above five or ſix hundred Pound weight; but they are kept for little, and endure Thirſt a long time. They do not tye them Head to Tayl, as they do the great ones, but let them go as they pleaſe themſelves, like a Herd of Cows. The Camel-driver follows them ſinging, and ſometimes playing upon his Pipe: the louder he ſings and pipes, the faſter the Camels go; nay they will ſtand ſtill when he gives over his Muſick. When the Camel-drivers come to a Heathy Ground, they will give them leave to ſeed for half an hour, taking their Tabacco the while; and then ſinging them together again, they ſet forward. The Camels bred in the Deſerts are handſom, but very tender, ſo that they muſt be gently us'd, and never be put upon long Journies. However, they eat and drink leſs than others, and endure thirſt more patiently.

The Camels of cold Countries, ſuch as thoſe that travel from Tauris to Conſtantinople, are large Camels, that carry great Burthens, and will pull themſelves out of the dirt. But in fat Grounds and ſlippery Ways the Drivers are fain to ſpread Carpets, ſometimes an hundred one behind another; otherwiſe their hinder Quarters are alſo apt to rive from their Buttocks; but if the Road be ſlippery for too great a diſtance together, there is no way but to tarry 'till it be dry'd up and fair. Theſe Camels uſually carry a thouſand Pound weight: but if the Merchant has any hank upon the Camel driver, he will lay upon every Camel fifteen hundred weight, thereby making two of three Burthens. This the Merchants do, when they come near the Cuſtom-Houſes, eſpecially that of Erzerom, which is the moſt ſevere. The Merchant does this for his own Profit: So that when the Cuſtomer miſtruſting, demands how ſo many Camels come to travel empty, he makes anſwer, that they were Camels that carry'd Proviſion: But the Cuſtomer moſt commonly winks at that good Husbandry of the Merchant, for fear of loſing his Cuſtom, and obliging the Merchant to take another Road.

There is as much knavery among the Camel drivers, as among our Horſe-Courſers. For I remember, that being once at Casbin, a Perſian Merchant, thinking he had bought eight good Camels, was deceiv'd in four which he thought the beſt. He verily believing they had been fat and in good caſe, but they were only blown up. For thoſe Cheats have a trick to cut a Hole near the Tail, of which the Purchaſer takes no notice, and which they know neatly how to ſow up again: In this Hole they will blow till they have puſt up a lean Camel, that he ſhall appear as fat and plump as the ſoundeſt that ever fed: whereby they often deceive the quickeſt ſights, eſpecially when the Hair is all off, and that the bare Skin is all rub'd over with Tar.

CHAP. XII. Of the Coyns and Money of Perſia.

IN the firſt place, you muſt take notice that there are no Pieces of Gold coyn'd in Perſia, but only ſome few, to be thrown among the People when a new King aſcends the Throne: which Pieces are neither currant among the Merchants, nor of a certain Price. When the Solemnity is over, they who get the Pieces, are not ſo curious to keep them, but carry them to the Changer, who gives them the value in currant Money. Theſe Pieces of Gold may be worth five A Frank is worth 2 s. Sterling.Franks, about the fineneſs of Almain-Ducats. Once I receiv'd ten thouſand of them of one Merchant, at a prefix'd rate; for their value is uncertain.

In the ſecond place obſerve, That the Silver in Perſia is good, whether it be in Barrs, or in Plate, or in Money, and it is taken for its goodneſs. For when a

Page. 51.▪ The money of the King of Perſia. Travels in India.

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Merchant enters into Perſia, whether it be at Erivan or Tauris, where the Money is coyn'd, he is oblig'd to tell what Silver he carry's, to the end it may be melted down and ſtamp'd with the King's Stamp; under a great Penalty, if diſcover'd to be a concealer. But if a Merchant's affairs will not permit him to ſtay at Erivan, or at Tauris; and that he think it better to carry his Money to the Mint of Iſpahan; 'tis but taking a Note from the Maſter of the Mint either at Tauris or Erivan, to atteſt that he has declar'd the truth of what he carries, and it is excuſe enough.

But they that can cunningly carry their Silver to Erivan, when the Seaſon is to go to the Indies, make a great profit of the Real; for the Merchants that go to the Indies will give them thirteen and a half, or fourteen Shayez a piece, for as many as they have. But there are few Merchants that carry their Silver to Iſpahan; in regard the Maſters of the Mints upon the Frontiers will be ſure to preſent them with a good piece of Silver Plate, rather than let them carry away their Bullion to Iſpahan, to have the benefit of Coynage themſelves.

They that traffick into Guilan for Silks carry their Silver to Teſlis, where the Maſter of the Mint gives them 2 per Cent. profit for their Silver. The reaſon is, becauſe that which he gives them for it is a little ſophiſticated; but it paſſes currant all over Guilan.

In the third place, you muſt obſerve, That upon the pieces of Silver, as well for the King's Duty as the Coynage of the Money, there is requir'd 7 ½ per Cent. But upon the Copper Money, not above one half, or 1 per Cent. at moſt. Whence it comes to paſs, that when a Workman has need of Copper, rather than loſe time in going to buy it, he will melt down his Casbeke's.

There are four ſeveral pieces of Silver Coyn; Abaſſi's, Mamoudi's. Shaet's, and Biſti's: but as for the Biſti's, there are very few at preſent.

The Copper pieces of Coyn are call'd Casbeké, of which there are ſingle and double.

The ſingle Casbeké is worth five Deniers and a Half-peny of our Money.

The double Casbeké is valu'd at eleven Deniers.

Four ſingle Casbeké's, or two double ones, make a Biſti.

Ten ſingle Casbeké's, or five double ones, make one Shayet in value.

Two Shayet's make a Mamoudi.

Two Mamoudi's make an Abaſſi.

The Real or Crown of France is worth three Abaſſi's and one Shayet; and counting a Real at ſixty Sous, an Abaſſi is worth eighteen Sous, ſix Deniers. Though to ſay truth, three Abaſſi's and one Shayet make three Half-pence more than the Crown.

Number 1, and Number 2. Are two pieces, which upon one ſide bear the Names of the twelve Prophets of the Law of Mahomet, and in the middle this Inſcription, La I • lah allah Mahomet reſoul Allah, Ali Vaeli Allah: on the back-ſide, The Conquerour of the World, Abas II. gives us permiſſion to coyn this Money in the City of Caſhan.

Num. 1. Makes five Abaſſi's; and counting our Crown at thirteen Shayet's, it comes to four Liveres, twelve Sou • , ſix Deniers.

Num. 2. Makes two Abaſſi's and a half of our Money, or forty-ſix Sous and one Farthing.

Num. 3. Is an Abaſſi, which comes to eighteen Sous, ſix Deniers.

Num. 4. Is a Mamoudi, worth nine Sous and a Farthing.

Num. 5. Is a Shayet, worth four Sous, ſeven Deniers, one Half-peny.

Num. 6. A Biſti, worth one Sous, ten Deniers.

Num. 7. The Copper Coyn, call'd Casbeké, worth five Deniers, one Half-peny.

Theſe Coyns, unleſs it be the Casbeké, bear no other Inſcription, but only the Name of the King reigning when they were coyn'd; the Name of the City where they were coyn'd; with the Year of the Hegyra of Mahomet.

Though all Payments are made in Abaſſi's, as well at Ormus and other parts of the Gulf belonging to the King of Perſia, as in the Iſland▪ of Bahren, where is the great Fiſhery and Market for Pearls; yet there is no mention made but only of Larins.

The Larin is deſcrib'd in the Money of Arabia. Eight Larins make an Or; four and twenty made a Toman.

An Or is not the name of a Coyn, but of a Sum in reck'ning among Merchants. One Or is five Abaſſi's.

A Toman is another Sum in payment: For in all Perſian Payments they make uſe of only Tomans and Ors; and though they uſually ſay that a Toman makes fifteen Crowns, in truth it comes to forty-ſix Livres, one Peny and ⅕.

As for pieces of Gold, the Merchant never carries any into Perſia, but Alman-Ducats, Ducats of the Seventeen Provinces, or of Venice; and he is bound to carry them into the Mint ſo ſoon as he enters into the Kingdom; but if he can cunningly hide them, and ſell them to particular perſons, he gets more by it. When a Merchant goes out of the Kingdom, he is oblig'd to tell what pieces of Gold he carries with him; and the King's people take a Shayet at the rate of a Ducat, and ſometimes they value the Ducat at more. But if he carrie's his Gold away privately and be diſcover'd, all his Gold is confiſcated.

The Ducat uſually is worth two Crowns, which in Perſia juſtly comes to twentyſix Shayets; but there is no price fixt in that Country for Ducats. For when the ſeaſon is to go for the Indies, or that the Caravan ſets out for Meccae, as well the Merchants as the Pilgrims buy up all the Ducats they can find out, by reaſon of their lightneſs; and then they riſe to twenty-ſeven, and twenty-eight Shayets, and ſometimes more, a piece.

The end of the Roads from Paris to Iſpahan, through the Northern Provinces of Turky.

CHAP. I. The ſecond Voyage of the Author from Paris to Iſpahan: and firſt, of his Embarking at Marſeilles for Alexandretta.

THE Road from Conſtantinople to Erivan, which with all thoſe other Roads through the Northern Provinces of Turkie, the firſt time I travel'd into Perſia, I have amply deſcrib'd. It behoves me now to treat of the Southern Provinces, and of thoſe through the Deſerts, where there are ſeveral Emirs, or Arabian Princes, of which ſeveral are very potent: For there are ſome of them that can bring 30000 Horſe into the Field, five of which I have had the honour to diſcourſe, and to oblige them with ſmall Preſents; in recompence whereof they ſent me Rice, Mutton, Dates▪ and Sherbet, as long as I ſtaid among them.

I embark'd at Marſeilles in a Holland Veſſel that carry'd five and forty Guns, from thence we ſet ſail for Malta. At Malta we ſtaid twelve days to carine the Veſſel, and to take in freſh Victuals. Among the reſt we bought two thouſand Quails, for there are a prodigious quantity in the Iſland: but in two or three days we found five or ſix hundred of them deſtroy'd by the Vermin that peſter'd the ſhip.

From Malta we ſet ſail for Larneca, a good Road in the Iſland of Cyprus, to the Weſt of Famagofta, which is not above a days journey from it by Land. As we were making into the Road, about two or three hours after midnight, we perceiv'd a Veſſel cloſe upon us, and both the Ships Company began to cry out, for fear of f • lling foul one upon another; but the Veſſel ſheer'd clear without any harm on either ſide.

In the morning we caſt Anchor, and went-aſhear. It is a good half League from the Road where the Conſuls and Merchants, both Engliſh, Hollanders, and French, live in a very pitiful Village. However there is a little Monaſtery of Capuchins, who officiate in the Chapel of the French Conſul; and another of Religious Italians, that depend upon the Guardian of Jeruſalem. We ſtaid but two days at Larneca; the Captain having nothing to do but to inform himſelf what buſineſs they might have for him at his return; it being uſual then to take in ſpun and unſpun Cottons, together with courſe Wool for Mattreſſes.

From Larneca 'till we came in view of the Coaſt of Syria, we had the Wind very favourable; but at length coming to prove a little contrary, inſtead of carrying us to Alexandretta, it caſt us to the Northward, two or three Leagues higher, upon the Coaſt of Cilicia, toward a Town call'd Païaſſes. Half a League from that City ly • s a vaſt Rock, and between that Rock and the Land runs a very high Sea: And here it was that the people of the Country believe that the Whale caſt up Jonas again; though the common Opinion reports it to have been done near Joppa in Paleſtine. All along that Coaſt from Alexandretta to Païaſſes, and farther, the way is ſo narrow and ſtraiten'd by the Mountain, that in ſome parts the Camels and Horſes muſt dip their Feet in the Sea: and yet you muſt paſs that way of neceſſity, travelling from Syria to Conſtantinople. Between Alexandretta and Païaſſes it was, that the Chevalier Paul, in a Veſſel that carry'd only three hundred Men, miſs'd but little of ſurpriſing the Caravan that every Year carries the Tribute of Egypt to Conſtantinople, which ſince hath never been ſent by Sea for fear of the Malteſi. This Knight had landed his Men, and laid them in Ambuſcade; but unfortunately his Deſign was diſcover'd, ſo that the Caravan, that might have been eaſily ſurpriz'd, ſtood upon their Guard.

We were near the Coaſt, when we diſcover'd a Skiff with fifteen or ſixteen Turks, that were ſent by him that commanded four Galleys of Rhodes to demand the Cuſtomary Preſent from our Captain. Thoſe Galleys then anchor'd at Païaſſes, and had there diſcharg'd themſelves of their Proviſions of War for Bagdat, which the Grand Signor was going to beſiege. And it is the cuſtom, that when the Great Turk's Galleys are out at Sea, that whatever ſtrange Veſſel paſſes by them muſt ſend them a Preſent, either willingly or by force. When the Baſha of the Sea, who is the Admiral of the Turks, is in Perſon at Sea, the Veſſel which he meets is not excus'd for 2000 Crowns: ſo that when he ſets out from Conſtantinople to cruiſe, the Veſſels of the Franks do all they can to avoid him. There are ſome that will ſeek to eſcape in ſight of the Galleys, but it has coſt them dear. And it happen'd, that one day the Wind ſlackning, they boarded a Veſſel of Marſeilles, the Captain and Notary whereof were both ſeiz'd, and drub'd 'till their Bodies were almoſt bruis'd to a Gelly, and they had like to have dy'd upon it, without being the better in their Purſes; for the rudeneſs of the Chaſtiſement did not excuſe them from paying the Money which was demanded. Whether our Captain knew any thing of this Example, or whether it were out of his natural heat of Valour, he laugh'd at the Skiff-men, bidding them be gone, and telling them he had no Preſents for them but Cannon-Bullets. Thereupon the Men return'd to their Galleys, who ſoon deliver'd us from the true fear we were in, that the gallantry of the Captain had drawn us into an inconvenience. For while we kept the Sea cloſe by the Coaſt, to obſerve the Countenances of the Turks, they weigh'd Anchor, and turn'd their Prows toward Rhodes. However, before they left us they ſent us a Broad-ſide, and our Captain, whatever we could ſay, ſent them another, which render'd us more guilty. For the Turks pretend that when their Navy is at Sea, or only one Squadron, and that a ſtrange Veſſel is in ſight, ſhe is bound to come as near as the Wind will permit her without being hal'd, for which they will otherwiſe make the Commander pay very ſeverely. The Conſuls and Merchants of Aleppo underſtanding what had paſs'd very much blam'd the Captain, fearing a worſe conſequence of the buſineſs▪ But by good fortune the miſcarriage was ſtifl'd and never went farther.

The ſame day the Wind veering to the Weſt-North-Weſt, we ſail'd into the Road of Alexandretta, where we came to an Anchor, about a quarter of a League from the Land. Upon the advice which they have out of Chriſtendom, ſo ſoon as they of Alexandretta diſcover a Veſſel, and know what Colours ſhe carries▪ the Vice-Conſul of the Nation to which the Veſſel belongs, fails not to advertiſe the Conſul of Aleppo, by a Note which is carry'd in four or five hours, though it be more than two or three days journey on Horſe-back. For they tye a Note under the Wing of a Pigeon, who is taught what to do, and ſhe flies directly to the place whence ſhe was brought. For more ſurety, they uſually ſend two, that if the one ſhould miſcarry i▪the dark, which has many times happen'd, the other may ſupply the defect.

Alexandretta is nothing elſe but a confus'd heap of paltry Houſes, inhabited by the Greeks, who keep little Fudling-ſchools, for the Mariners and others, the meaner ſort of the people: for the Merchants lye at the Vice-Conſuls of the Nation. There were but two then, the Engliſh Vice-Conſul and the French; who had each of them a very convenient dwelling. However▪ they muſt be men who love Money at a ſtrange▪rate, that accept of thoſe Employments. For the Air, like that of Ormus, is generally ſo bad▪ eſpecially in the Summer, in ſo much that they who do not dye, cannot avoid very dangerous Diſtempers. If there be any ſo ſtrong that they can hold out for three or four Years, and can accuſtom themſelves to a bad Air, they do well to ſtay there; 〈◊〉 for them to betake themſelves to a good Air, is to hazard their Lives. Mr. Philips the Engliſh Conſul has been the only Perſon that ever liv'd two and twenty Years at Alexandretta: but you muſt know he was a brisk merry Man, and of an excellent temper of Body; and yet for all that he had been forc'd to be cauteriz'd. That which renders the Air ſo bad, is the great quantity of ſtanding Pools and Plaſhes in the neighbouring Plains, extending to the Eaſt and South; but when the great Heats begin to approach, the moſt part of the Inhabitants retire to a Village call'd Belan, upon the next Mountain to the City, where there are very good Waters and excellent Fruits. They come alſo thither from Aleppo, when there is an appearance of a Peſtilence; and yet there are few people in this Village who are not troubled with a ſort of Fever, that makes their Eyes look▪ yellow and hollow; which they never can remedy as long as they live.

About half a League from Alexandretta, on ▪the right hand of the High way, juſt againſt the Merſh on the other ſide, is a Tower whereon are to be ſeen the Arms of Godfrey of Bulloign. In all likelihood it was built for the defence of the High-way, which is enclos'd between theſe two Merches, whoſe Exhalations are • ery noxious.

It is but three little days journey from Alexandretta to Aleppo, and ſome well mounted have rid it in two. The Franks are not permitted to go thither on Foot. For before that Prohibition, in regard the way was ſhort, every Sea-man that had a hundred Crowns, more or leſs, went on Foot to Aleppo, and got eaſily thither in three days, with little expence. Now becauſe they had but little Money to ſpend, and were willing to diſpatch their buſineſs, they would not ſtand to give Four or Five in the Hundred extraordinary for what Goods they bought, which was of dangerous conſequence to the Merchants. For you muſt obſerve, that when the Ships arrive, the firſt man that either out of raſhneſs or ignorance, gives two Sous more for a Commodity that is not worth a Crown, ſets the Price, and cauſes all the whole Commodity to be ſold at that rate. So that the Merchants that lay out ten or twelve thouſand Crowns together, are very careful leſt thoſe Saylors ſhould get before them, and enhance the Price of the Market.

To remedy which inconvenience, the Merchants obtain'd an Order, That no Strangers ſhould be permitted to go a-foot from Alexandretta to Aleppo, but that they ſhould be bound to hire Horſes, and to give for every Horſe ſix Piaſters thither, and ſix back; which expence would ſoon eat out the Profit of a poor Mariner's ſmall Sum.

Uſually you ſtay at Alexandretta three or foor days, as well to reſt your ſelf, as to make ſome little Proviſions for your Journey to Aleppo. For though you meet with good Stages at Evening, yet the Janiſaries will be very glad to eat by the way.

Setting out from Alexandretta, we travel'd over a Plain to the foot of a Mountain which is call'd Belan. There is a wide Gap in the midſt of this Mountain, which giving liberty to the North-Eaſt Wind, when it blows hard, doth ſo enrage the Road of Alexandretta, which is otherwiſe very calm, that no Ship can ride there at that time. In ſo much that all Ships that happ'n to be there when the Wind riſes, preſently weigh, and get out to Sea, for fear of being caſt away. Almoſt at the top of the Mountain you meet with an Inn; but though it be very fair one, with Fountains round about it, yet Merchants never ſtop there, but go on a little farther to a Grecian that ſpeaks good Italian, and whoſe entertainment is indifferent good, conſidering the Country. When you go away, you give him a Crown for your accommodation, which is the manner at other Stages, by a cuſtom, which the Franks themſelves having eſtabliſh'd, will never be left off.

Deſcending down the Mountain you diſcover the City of Antioch, built upon a Hill. Formerly the Road lay through that City▪ but the Janizaries of the place exacting a Piaſter from every perſon that travel'd that way, that Road is now diſus'd. Antioch once made more noiſe in the World, being fal'n to ruine ever ſince the Chanel, that ran from the City to the Sea, where Galleys might ride, has been ſtop'd up by the Sands that have encroach'd upon the Mouth of the Haven.

When you are at the bottom of the Hill toward the North, you diſcover a Caſtle built upon a Hill ſtanding by it ſelf, from whence you have a proſpect over a good part of the Plain of Antioch. It is about fifteen Leagues long, and three broad, in that part where the Road lyes. Somewhat more than half the way, you meet with a long Cauſey parted by ſeveral Bridges, by reaſon of certain Rivulets that croſs it, without which the Road were hardly paſſable. The frequent Revolts of Baegdat and Balſara, which the Grand Signor has been forc'd ſo often to beſiege, caus'd the Grand Viſier in the Reign of Achmat to undertake this Cauſey, which together with the Bridge was finiſh'd in ſix Months, that was lookt upon as a Mi • acle. This was done for the more eaſie paſſage of the Artillery, and other Proviſions of War, that were brought out of Romania and Greece to the Siege of Baegdat, which could never have been done, but for this Cauſey. At the end of this Cauſey ſtands a Bridge, very long and ſtrongly built, under which runs a River, which, with the other Rivulets that wind about the Plain, forms a Lake toward the South, that is call'd the Lake of Antioch. • This Lake affords a great Revenue, by reaſon of the Eels that are caught there, which are taken two Months beofre Lent, and tranſported to Malta Sicily, and other parts of Italy.

This Plain is very full of Olive-Trees; which produces that great Trade of Soap, that is made at Aleppo, and tranſported into Mcſopotamia, Chaldea, Perſia, and the Deſert; that Commodity being one of the moſt acceptable Preſents that can be made to the Ar • bians. Sallet Oyl is alſo in great eſteem among them: ſo that when you make them a Preſent of it, they will take off their Bonnets, and rub their Heads, their Faces, and their Beards with it, lifting up their Eyes to Heaven, and cry in their Language, God be thank'd. Therein they have loſt nothing of the ancient cuſtom of the Eaſtern People, of which there is often mention made in Holy Scripture.

About a League and a half beyond the Plain, you meet with a Rock, at the foot whereof is a little deep Lake, wherein they catch a world of Fiſh that are like our Barbels. I have kill'd them with my Piſtol; and found them to be of an excellent taſt; though they are not regarded at Aleppo.

Two hours after you fo • d a River which is call'd Afrora; though if it have happen'd to rain, you muſt ſtay 'till the Waters are fal'n. Having paſt the River, upon the Banks whereof you ſtay to feed your ſelf and your Horſes, you come to lye at a poor Village call'd Shaquemin, where there is an Inn. Here the Country-people bring Proviſions of Food to the Travellers; and whether you eat or no, you muſt pay a Piaſter, according to the cuſtom which the Franks have eſtabliſh'd. After you have paſs'd the Plain of Antioch as far as Shaquemin, the Horſes in Summer are ſo terribly tormented with a ſort of great Flies, that it were impoſſible to travel three or four hours together, were it not for going out of the Road, either to the right, or to the left, and riding through the Fields, which are full of thoſe Burrs that our Clothworkers make uſe of: For in regard they grow as high as the Crupper of the Horſe, they keep the Flies off from ſtinging and tyring the Ho •• es.

Leaving the Village of Sh • q •• e •• in, the Road lyes among Stones; and for half this tedious way, for two or three Leagues round about, you ſee nothing but the Ruines of ancient Monaſteries. There are ſome of them which are built almoſt a • of Free-ſtone; and about half a days journey toward the North, quite out of the Road, ſtands the Monaſtery of St. Simeon the Stylite, with the remainder of his ſo

The Prospect of Aleppo.

Pag. 1▪

famous Pillar, which is ſtill to be • een. The Franks that travel to Aleppo, uſually go out of their way to ſee that place. That which I find moſt entire and worthy obſervation among the Ruines of thoſe Monaſteries, is the number of arch' Ciſterns of Free-ſtone, which time has not defac'd.

From Shaquemin you come to dine at a Village call'd Angare, where every Traveller is entertain'd for his Piaſter, as at the other Stages. Between the other Villages it is ten hours journey; but between the Angare and Aleppo, but three. We alighted at the French Conſul's Houſe, at what time the Cuſtomers came preſently to ſearch our Cloak-bags; after which we went to the Quaiſſ • ry, which is a place where all Strangers are at the expence of half a Crown a day for themſelves, and a quarter ſo much for every Servant, and are well entertain'd.

CHAP. II. The Deſcription of Aleppo, now the Capital City of Syria.

ALeppo is one of the moſt famous Cities in all Turkie, as well for the bigneſs and beauty of it, as for the goodneſs of the Air, and plenty of all things; together with the great Trade which is driv'n there by all the Nations of the World. It lyes in 71 Deg. 41 Min. of Longitude, and 36 Deg. 15 Min. of Latitude, in an excellent Soil. With all the ſearch that I could make, I could never learn how it was anciently call'd. Some would have it to be Hierapolis, others Beroea: And the Chriſtians of the Country agree with the latter. The Arabian Hiſtorians that record the taking of it, call it only Aleb, not mentioning any other name. Whence this Obſervation is to be made. That if the Arabians call it Aleb, others Alep; the reaſon is, becauſe the Arabians never uſe the Letter P in their Language. This City was taken by the Arabians in the fifteenth Year of the Hegyra of Mahomet, which was about the Year of CHRIST 637, in the Reign of Heraclius Emperour of Conſtantinople.

The City is built upon four Hills, and the Caſtle upon the higheſt that ſtands in the middle of Aleppo, being ſupported by Arches in ſome places, for fear the Earth ſhould tumble and moulder away from it. The Caſtle is large, and may be about five or ſix hundred Paces in compaſs. The Walls and Towers, though built of Free-ſtone, are of little defence. There is but one Gate to enter into it from the South, over a Draw-bridge, laid over certain Arches croſs a Moat about ſix or ſeven Fathom deep. There is but one half of it full of Water, and that a ſtanding Puddle to boot; the reſt is a meer dry Ditch; ſo that it cannot be accounted a wholſom place. However there is Water brought into the Caſtle through a large Pipe from the Fountains in the City: and there is a ſtrong Garriſon kept in it.

The City is above three Miles in circuit, and the beſt half of it is unmoated; that Moat there is not above three Fathom deep. The Walls are very good, and all of Free-ſtone; with ſeveral ſquare Towers, diſtant one from the other about fourſcore Paces; between which there are others alſo that are leſs. But theſe Walls are not all of them of an equal height, for in ſome places they are not above four Fathoms from the Ground. There are ten Gates to enter into the City, without either Moat or Draw-Bridge; under one of which there is a place that the Turks have in great veneration; where they keep Lamps continually burning, and report that Eliſha the Prophet liv'd for ſome time.

There is no River that runs through Aleppo; and but only a ſmall one without the City, which the Arabians call Coïc. However, though indeed it be but properly a Rivulet, yet it is very uſeful to water the Gardens, where grows an abundance of Fruit, particularly Piſtaches, much bigger, and better taſted than thoſe that comes from the parts near Casbin. But though there be no River, yet there are ſtore of Fountains and Receptacles of Water, which they bring from two places diſtant from the City.

The Edifices, neither publick nor private, are very handſom, but only withinſide; the Walls are of Marble of ſeveral colours, and the Cieling of Foliage Fret-work, with Inſcriptions in Golden Letters. Without and within the City there are ſix and twenty Moſquees, ſix or ſeven whereof are very magnificent, with ſtately Duomo's, three being cover'd with Lead. The chiefeſt and largeſt of all, was a Chriſtian Church which they call'd A • hha, or Liſten'd unto: which is thought to have been built by St. Helen. In one part of the Suburbs alſo ſtands another Moſquee, which was formerly a Chriſtian Church; in that there is one thing worthy obſervation. In the Wall upon the right ſide of the Gate there is a Stone to be ſeen two or three Foot ſquare, wherein there is the figure of a handſom Chalice, and a Sacrifice over the hollow of it, with a Creſcent that covers the Sacrifice, the two Horns whereof deſcend juſt upon the brims of the mouth of the Chalice. One would think at firſt that thoſe Figures were in Moſaïc. Work: but it is all Natural, as I have found with ſeveral other Franks, having ſcrap'd the Stone with an Iron Inſtrument, when the Turks were out of the way. Several Conſuls would have bought it, and there has been offer'd for it 2000 Crowns; but the Baſha's of Aleppo would never ſuffer it to be ſold. Half a League from the City lyes a pleaſant Hill, where the Franks are wont to take the Air. On the ſide of that Hill is to be ſeen a Cave or Grotto, where the Turks report that Haly liv'd for ſome few days; and for that there is an ill-ſhap'd figure of a Hand imprinted in the Rock, they farther believe it to be the Hand of Haly.

There are three Colledges in Aleppo, but very few Scholars, though there be Men of Learning that belong to them, who have Salaries to teach Grammar, and their odd kind of Philoſophy, with the Grounds of their Religion, which are the Principal Sciences to which the Turks apply themſelves.

The Streets of the City are all pav'd, except the Bazar's, where the Merchants and Handicraft-Tradeſmen keep their Shops. The chiefeſt Artiſts, and the moſt numerous are Silk and Camlet-Weavers.

In the City and Suburbs there are about forty Inns; and fifty publick Baths, as well for Women as for Men, keeping their turns. 'Tis the chiefeſt Paſtime the Women have to go to the Baths; and they will ſpare all the Week long to carry a Collation, when they go at the Weeks end to make merry among themſelves, in thoſe places of privacy.

The Suburbs of the City are large and well peopl'd, for almoſt all the Chriſtians have their Houſes and Churches there. Of which Chriſtians there are four ſorts in Al • ppo, I mean of Eaſtern Chriſtians, that is to to ſay, Greeks, Armenians, Jacobites or Syrians, and Maronites. The Greeks have an Archbiſhop there, and are about fifteen or ſixteen thouſand in number; their Church is dedicated to St. George. The Armenians have a Biſhop, whom they call Vertabet; and are about twelve thouſand in number; their Church is dedicated to the Virgin. The Jacobites being about ten thouſand, have a Biſhop alſo; and their Church is likewiſe dedicated to the Virgin, as is that of the Armenians. The Maronites depend upon the Pope, not being above twelve hundred; their Church being conſecrated to St. Elias. The Roman Catholicks have three Churches, ſerv'd by the Capuchins, Carmelites, and Jeſuits. They reckon that in the Suburbs and City of Aleppo there are about 250000 Souls.

There is a vaſt Trade at Aleppo for Silks and Camlets, but chiefly for Gall-Nuts, and Valanede, which is a ſort of Acorn-ſhell without which the Curriers cannot dreſs their Leather. They have alſo a great Trade for Soap, and for ſeveral other Commodities; the Merchants repairing thither from all parts of the World. For not to ſpeak of the Turks, Arabians, Perſians, Indians, there are ſeveral Engliſh, Italians, French, and Hollanders, every Nation having their Conſul to carry on their Intereſts, and maintain their Priviledges.

Nor does this place happ'n to be ſo great a Mart, through the convenience of the two Rivers of Tigris and Euphrates, as ſome have writt'n; by which they ſay ſuch vaſt quantities of Commodities are tranſported and imported out and into the City. For had that been, I ſhould never have croſs'd the Deſert, coming from Bagdat to Aleppo; nor at another time, going from Aleppo to Balſara. And as for Euphrates, certain it is, that the great number of Mills built upon it, to bring the Water to the neighbouring Grounds, have not only render'd it unnavigable, but made it very dangerous.

I muſt confeſs, that in the year 1638 I ſaw a great part of the Grand Signor's Army, and ſeveral Boats full of Warlike Proviſions fall down the Stream, when he went to beſieg • it: but when they were forc'd to ta • e away all the Mills that are upon the River; which was not done without a vaſt trouble and expence. As for Tigris, it is not navigable 'till beyond Babylon down to Bal • ara, where you may take Water, and be at Bal • ara in nine days. But the Voyage is very inconvenient, for at every Town which the Arabs have upon the River, you muſt be hal'd, and be forc'd to leave ſome Money behind you. Som • times indeed the Merchants of Mouſſul and Bagdat; and others that come out of Chaldea to T • ade at Bal • ara, carry their Goods by Water from Bagdat; but in regard the Boats are only to be tow'd by Men, it takes them up a Voyage of ſeventy days. By this you may judge of the time and expence of carrying Goods by Water up the River Euphrates to Bir, where they are to be unlad'n for Aleppo.

In ſhort, if the convenience of Morat-ſou (for ſo the Turks call Euphrates) were to be had, and that Goods might be tranſported by that River, the Merchants would never take that way: for the Arabian Princes, with their People and their Cattel lying all the Summer long upon the Banks of the River, for the ſake of the Water and the Graſs, would make the Merchants pay what Toll they pleas'd themſelves.

I ſaw an Example of this, coming one time from Babylon to Aleppo. In all which Road we met but with one of thoſe Arabian Princes, who lay at Anna: yet he made us pay for every Camel's Load forty Piaſters. And which was worſe, he detain'd us above five Weeks, to the end his Subjects might get more of our Money by ſelling us their Proviſions. The laſt time I paſs'd the Deſert, I met another of theſe Arabian Princes together with his Brother, both young Men: He would not let us go a ſtep farther, unleſs we would exchange two hundred Piaſters in ſpecie for Larins, the Money of the Country; and he forc'd us to take them what ever we could urge to make it appear how much we ſhould loſe by them. And indeed we ſaid as much as we could, for the diſpute laſted two and twenty days to no purpoſe; might overcoming right. By this you may gueſs what the other Arabians would do, who are not a jot more civil; and whether the Merchants would get by taking the Road of Euphrates.

The City is govern'd by a Baſha, who commands all the Country from Alexandretta to Euphrates. His Guard uſually conſiſts of three hundred Men, and ſome years ago he was made a Vizier. There is alſo an Aga or Captain of the Cavalry, as well within the City as without, who commands four hundred Men. There is another Aga who has under him ſeven hundred Janiſaries, who has the charge of the Gates of the City; to whom the Keys are carry'd every Evening, neither has he any dependance upon the Baſha. The Caſtle is alſo under another Commander▪ ſent immediately from Conſtantinople, who has under him two hundred Musketeers, and likewiſe the charge of the Cannon; of which there are about thirty Pieces; eight great Guns, the reſt of a ſmall ſize. There is alſo another Aga or Captain of the City, who commands three hundred Harquebuzes; beſide a Son-Baſhi, who is a kind of Provoſt of the Merchants, or Captain of the Watch, going the round every Night with his Officers though the City and Suburbs. He alſo puts in Execution the Sentences of the Baſha, upon Criminal Offenders.

In Civils there is a Cadi, who ſits ſole Judge, without any Aſſiſtants, of all Cauſes as well Civil as Criminal; and when he has condemn'd any Man to Death, he ſends him to the Baſha, together with his Accuſation, with whom the Baſha does as he pleaſes. This Cady makes and diſſolves all Contracts of Marriage; all Acts of Sale and Purchaſe paſs in his preſence. He alſo creates the ſworn Maſters of every Trade, who make their inſpection that there may be no deceit in the Work. The Grand Signor's Duties are receiv'd by a Tefterdar, or Treaſurer-General, who has under him ſeveral Receivers in divers places.

In matters of Religion, the Muf • i is the Chief, and the Interpreter of the Law, as well in relation to the Ceremonies, as in all Eccleſiaſtical differences. Among theſe Interpreters of the Law there is a Chieke or Doctor, appointed to inſtruct thoſe that are newly converted to Mahumetaniſm, and to teach them the Maxims and Cuſtoms of their Religion.

Three days after I arriv'd at Aleppo, Sultan Amurat made his Entry, going to his Army, which was upon its march to the Siege of Babylon. Now you muſt take notice, that nor far from Aleppo, toward the Eaſt, there ſtands a Houſe inhabited by the Dervies, which are a Religious Order among the Turks; though it formerly belong'd to the Monks of St. Baſil, and was a fair Covent. It is ſtill in good repair, the Walls of the Chambers, Halls, and Galleries being all Marble. All the Dervies of this Houſe went half a League from the City, as far as Mount Ozelet, to meet the Grand Signor; and the Superiour, at the Head of the reſt, having made a Speech to his Highneſs, two Dervies came and made their obeiſance in particular. Which being perform'd, from that place to the Caſtle of Aleppo, for half an hours march together; they went juſt before the Grand Signor's Horſe, turning round continually with all their might, 'till they foam'd again at the Mouth, and dazl'd the Eyes of thoſe that beheld them. There are ſome of theſe Dervies that will turn in that manner for two hours together, and glory in that which we account folly.

While the Grand Signor ſtaid at Aleppo, the Baſha of Cayro came thither with a thouſand Janiſaries: And indeed, there never was a ſight of Men more active, or better order'd. Every one of them had Scarlet Breeches that reach'd down to their Ancles, with a Turkie-Robe of Engliſh Cloth, and a Waſt-coat of Calicut painted with ſeveral Colours. The moſt part had Buttons of Gold and Silk; and as well their Girdles as their Scimitars were adorn'd with Silver. The Baſha march'd at the Head of this Magnificent Regiment in a modeſt Garb; but the Harneſs of his Horſe was as rich as his Habit ſeem'd to be careleſs, having ſpar'd for no Coſt to appear before the Grand Signor in a ſtately Equipage.

There is a neceſſity for a Man to ſtay ſome time at Aleppo, as well to diſpoſe of his Affairs, and in expectation 'till the Caravan be ready, unleſs he will venture himſelf alone without a Guide, which I have done more than once. And thus much for Aleppo, next to Conſtantinople and Cayro, the moſt conſiderable City in all the Turkiſh Empire.

CHAP. III. Of ſeveral Roads in general from Aleppo to Iſpahan, and particularly of the Road through the great Deſert.

THere are five principal Roads from Aleppo to Iſpahan, which being added to thoſe other Roads which I have diſcrib'd through Natolia, make ſeven Roads into Perſia, parting from Conſtantinople, Smyrna, or Aleppo.

The firſt of the five Roads, ſetting out from Aleppo, is upon the left hand, toward the Summer-Eaſt, through Diarbck and Tauris. The ſecond directly Eaſt, by Meſopotamia, through Mouſſul and Amadan. The third upon the right hand, toward the Winter-Eaſt, through Bagdat and Kengavar. The fourth ſomewhat more to the South, croſſing a little Deſert, through Anna, Bagdat, and Balſara. The fifth through the great Deſert, which is an extraordinary Road, never travel'd but once a year, when the Merchants of Turkie and Egypt go to buy Camels. Of theſe Roads I intend to treat diſtinctly, and in ſeveral Chapters. And firſt of the Road through the great Deſert.

The Caravans that go to Balſara this way never ſet out 'till the Rains are fal'n, that they may not want Water in the Deſert: and the Rain ſeldom holds up 'till December. This Caravan, with which I travel'd, ſet out upon Chriſtmas-day, conſiſting of about ſix hundred Camels, and four hundred Men, Maſters and Servants together: the Caravan-Baſhi being only on Horſe-back, and riding before, to find Water, and convenient places to lodge in.

I muſt confeſs I had the convenience my ſelf to ride my own Horſe, which I kept all the while I was at Aleppo. A liberty permitted the Franks only at Conſtantinople, Smyrna, and Aleppo▪ for at Damas, Seyde, or Cayro, none but the Conſuls are ſuffer'd to keep Horſes: others can only keep or hire Aſſes, which ſtand ready in the publick Streets at all times.

The next day we diſlodg'd by day-break, and by noon we came to a place where there were five Wells, about five hundred Paces diſtant one from the other. The Water was excellent, and caus'd us to repleniſh our Boracho's: and about four a Clock in the Afternoon we lay at a place where there was no Water.

The next day near noon we met▪ with two Wells, but the Water was not good, and only the Camels drank of it, there we alſo lodg'd that night.

Having now travel'd two days in the Deſert, I will deſcribe it in a few words. You begin to enter upon it two or three Leagues from Aleppo, where by degrees you meet with nothing but Tents inſtead of Houſes. It ſtretches out to the Winter-Eaſt, all along the Euphrates to Balſara, and the Shoar of the Gulf of Perſia; and upon the South to the Chain of Mountains that divides it from Arabia Petr • a and Arabia the Happy. Theſe Deſerts are almoſt quite thorough nothing but Plains of Sand, which in ſome places lye looſer than in others; and are hardly paſſable till the Rains are but newly • al'n, and have knit the Sands together. 'Tis a rare thing to meet with a Hill or a Valley in theſe Deſerts; if you do, there is as ſurely Water, and as many Buſhes as will ſerve to boyl a little Rice. For thoughout the whole Deſert there is no Wood to be found; and all the Bavins and Charcoal that you can load upon Camels at Aleppo, will not laſt above eight or ten days. Therefore you muſt take notice, that of ſix hundred Camels that paſs through the Deſert, there are ſcarce fifty laden with Merchandize, which is generally courſe Cloth, ſome little Iron Ware, but chiefly black and blew Calicuts, which the Arabians make uſe of without ever whitening them. All the other Camels are only laden with Proviſion, and all little enough; ſo many People being to travel for ſo many days through ſo long a Tract of Ground where there is nothing in the World to ſuſtain Life and Soul together.

For the firſt fifteen days travel we met with Water but once in two days, and ſometimes not above once in three days. The twentieth day after we ſet out from Aleppo, the Caravan lay at a place where there were two Wells, and the Water very good. Every one was glad of the convenience of waſhing his Linnen, and the Caravan-Baſhi made account to have ſtaid there two or three days. But the News that we receiv'd, caus'd us to alter our Reſolutions. For we had no ſooner giv'n order to dreſs our Suppers, when we ſaw a Courier with three Arabs, all mounted upon Dromedaries, who were ſent to carry the news of the Taking of Babylon to to Aleppo and other Cities of the Empire. They ſtop'd at the Wells to let their Beaſts drink; and immediately the Caravan-Baſhi, and the principal perſons of the Caravan made them a ſmall Preſent of dry'd Fruits and Granates. Who thereupon were ſo kind as to tell us, that the Carriage which carried the Baggage belonging to the Grand Signor and his Train being tyr'd, his Officers would be ſure to ſeize upon ours, if they ſhould chance to meet with us: they advis'd us moreover not to come near Anna, leſt the Emir ſhould ſtop us.

Upon this news, we departed three hours after midnight; and keeping directly to the South, we put our ſelves into the midſt of the Deſert.

Eight days after we came to lye at a place where three Wells, and three or four Houſes. We ſtaid there two days to take freſh Water, and we were juſt ſetting forward again, when thirty Horſemen well mounted came from one of the Emirs, to tell the Caravan Baſhi that he muſt ſtop his Caravan. We ſtaid impatiently for him three days; and at length he came, and was preſented by the Caravan-Baſhi with a piece of Satin, half a piece of Scarlet Cloth, and two large Copper Cauldrons. Now although thoſe Cauldrons could not but be very acceptable to an Arabian Prince, who moſt certainly had none ſuch in his Kitchin, vet he did not ſeem contented with his Preſent, and demanded above four hundred Crowns▪ We conteſted ſeven or eight days to have kept our Money in our Pockets, but in vain, ſo that we were forc'd to rate one another, and to raiſe him his Sum; which being paid, he treated the chief of the Caravan with Pilaw, Honey, and Dates, and when he went away, give them five or ſix Sheep ready boyl'd.

Three days after we had leſt this Arabian Prince, we met with two Wells near certain old decay'd Brick Buildings. The Water of thoſe Wells was ſo bitter, that the Camels would not drink it: however we fill'd our Boracho's, thinking it would have left its bitterneſs by being boyl'd: but we found the contrary.

From thoſe two Wells that were good for nothing, we travel'd ſix days before we met with any Water, which with their three days before, made nine; and all that time the Camels never drank, as I have hinted already. At the end of nine days we croſs'd a Hilly Country for three Leagues together, at the feet of three of which Hills there were three ſtanding Pools. The Camels, that ſmelt the Water half a League off, put themſelves upon their great trot, which is their manner of running, and no ſooner came to the Pools but they crouded in all together, which caus'd the Water to be thick and muddy. Thereupon the Caravan-Baſhi reſolv'd to ſtay there two or three days together, 'till the Water was ſetl'd. Here we had alſo the opportunity to boyl us ſome Rice, there being good ſtore of Buſhes that grew about the Lake. But above all, the People were over joy'd that they had an opportunity to make Bread, which they do after the following manner. Firſt they dig a round Hole in the Ground, half a Foot deep, and two or three in diameter, which they croud full of Buſhes, and then ſet them on fire, covering them with Bricks or Stones 'till they are red hot. In the mean while they prepare their Dough upon a Sofra, or round piece of Copper, which ſerves at other times for Table and Table-Cloth to eat upon. Then they take away the Aſhes and Bricks, and making the Hole very clean, put in their Dough, and covering it again with the hot Bricks or Stones, leave it ſo 'till the morning. The Bread thus bak'd is very well taſted, not being above two Fingers thick, and as big as an ordinary Cake.

While we ſtay'd at the three Ponds, I ſpent my time in killing Hares and Partridge, of which there was very great plenty in thoſe parts. The night before we departed we fill'd our Baracho's again, the Water being very good and clear; though it be nothing but Rain water preſerv'd in thoſe Cavi • ies, which in the Summer are dry again.

But now the Caravan-Baſhi, ſeeing we had travel'd already nine days without finding any Water, reſolv'd to leave the South, and to keep to the Weſt; and if he met not with Water in two or three days, to take to the North-Eaſt, or Winter-Eaſt, in queſt of the River Euphrates.

Two days after we had chang'd our Road, we paſs'd between two little Hills, where we met with a Pond, near to which were two Arabians, each with his Wife and Children, tending a Herd of Goats and a Flock of Sheep. They told us they were going toward Mouſſul, and put us in the beſt Road to find Water; and indeed, from that place to Balſara, we never travel'd three days together, but we met with enough.

Five days after we had left thoſe two Arabians, we diſcover'd a large Palace all of Brick; which ſhew'd ſome probability, that the Country had been formerly ſow'd, and that the Bricks had been bu • nt with the Straw. To the Palace belong'd three large Courts; in every one of which were fair Buildings, with two Stories of Arches, one upon another. Though this large Pile was ſtanding, yet no body liv'd in it, nor could the Arabians, (very ignorant in Antiquity,) tell us by whom it was built. Before the Gate of the Palace there is a Lake with a Channel, the bottom whereof is brick'd, as alſo the Arch, which is even with the Ground. This the Arabians believe to have been a conveyance of Water from Euphrates: which ſurely could never be, in regard that Euphrates is above twenty Leagues diſtant.

From that Palace we kept to the North-Eaſt, and after we had travel'd five days, we arriv'd at a pitiful Town, formerly call'd Cufa, now Meched-Ali, where Ali, Mahomet's Son in-law lyes buried in a plain Moſquee. Generally there ſtand four Tapers lighted about the Tomb, and certain Lamps burning over-head, which are faſten'd to the Roof.

Though the Perſians have Ali in ſo much veneration, yet they rarely go in Pilgrimage to his Tomb. The reaſon is, becauſe that there being no way to come at it, but through Bagdat, which is under the Dominion of the Great Turk, there is a demand of eight Piaſters from every Pilgrim; which is an Impoſition that no way pleaſes the King of Perſia. Sha-Abas ſcorning that his Subjects ſhould be tributary to the Turks, endeavour'd to divert them from this Pilgrimage by another ſort of Devotion, which he ſet up at Meſhéed, upon the Road from Tauris to Candahar. Nor have the Kings his Succeſſors been leſs unwilling to give their Subjects leave to viſit their Prophet Ali, taking it for an Affront to pay Tribute to the Grand Signor. Which is the reaſon that this Moſquee is no more enrich'd by the Perſians. For beſides the Lamps and Tapers that burn continually, there are only two Moullah's that read the Alcoran according to cuſtom. In this Town there are only three or four bad Wells of brackiſh Water, and a dry Chanel, which they ſay Sha-Abas made to bring the Water of Euphrates to the Town for the benefit of the Pilgrims. As for Food, we met with nothing but Dates, Grapes, and Almonds, which the People ſold at a dear rate. When any Pilgrims come thither, which is very rare, and that they want Victuals, the Sheck cauſes a diſtribution to be made among them of Rice boyl'd with Water and Salt, and a little Butter pour'd atop. For there is no Paſturage for Cattel, and by conſequence there can be no ſtore of Food.

Two days journey from Ali's Town, by nine of the Clock in the morning we met two young Arabian Lords, that took upon them the name of Sultans. They were two Brothers, one of the age of ſeventeen years, the other of thirteen: and as we pitch'd our Tents, they pitch'd theirs cloſe by us; which were of a very fine Scarlet Cloth; and among the reſt there was one cover'd with Purple Velvet, lac'd with a rich Galoon-lace. So ſoon as they were ſettl'd in their Tents, the Caravan-Baſhi and I went to wait upon them; who underſtanding that there were Franks in the Caravan, ask'd me whether I had any Curioſities to ſell them; but when I made them anſwer that I had nothing worthy their Purchaſe, they would not believe me, and therefore commanded the Caravan Baſhi to fetch my Trunks, that they might be open'd in their preſence. While the were opening, one of the chief perſons about thoſe Princes would not ſuffer any of the reſt of the Arabs to come near, for though moſt of the Arabs are great Thieves, yet ſome of them are perſons of great integrity. Now I had in my company a young Painter, who had in his Cheſt ſeveral engrav'd Cuts, part Landskips, part Figures, together with the Pictures of certain Courtiſans drawn to the Waſt. The young Lords made choiſe only of twenty of thoſe Courtiſans, which I would have preſented to them, but they gave me to underſtand, that they knew how to pay for what they had, and eſpecially the youngeſt, who ſeem'd to be very generous; him I pleas'd in an extraordinary manner; for his Teeth being very foul, I order'd a Chirurgeon that I carry'd along with me at the ſame time to clean them, which he did to the great ſatisfaction of the young Prince. Thereupon they ſent me and my Train, of their beſt Victuals they had. The Caravan Baſhi preſented them with half a piece of Scarlet, and two pieces of Tiſſue of Gold and Silver. When we were ready to go, the young Sultan gave me twelve Ducats for my Pictures, and ſent the Caravan-Baſhi and my ſelf two Frails of the beſt Dates that we had met with ſince we left Aleppo.

About midnight the Princes diſlodg'd, and took to the North toward Euphrates. We ſet forward after them, driving Northward toward the ſame River. After we had travel'd four days we met one of the moſt potent Emirs of Arabia, who coming from the South, and going Northward, was to croſs the Road that we kept. He was about fifty years of age, well made, and of a comely preſence. He had not then above two thouſand Horſe, of thirty thouſand which we heard had paſs'd by ſome days before. Behind the two thouſand Horſe were fifty Camels that carry'd his Women; their Cajavas being cover'd with Scarlet-cloth fring'd with Silk. In the midſt of theſe Camels there were ſix encompaſs'd with Eunuchs, the Fringes of the Cajavas being Silk, Silver, and Gold. The Arabians do not ſeem to be jealous of their Wives, as in Turkie and other places; for they led their Camels by our Caravan, never requiring us to retire, as is the cuſtom in other places. They lodg'd a quarter of a League off, where we thought to have pitch'd, for the conveniency of two or three Ponds, which they depriv'd us of. This Arabian Prince had a great number of lovely Horſes richly harneſs'd: others he had that were neither ſadl'd nor bridl'd, yet the Riders would turn them with a Wand which way they pleas'd, and upon a full gallop would ſtop 'em, by only holding them by the Hair. He had ſome Horſes of an exceſſive price; and this is to be obſerv'd, that they are never ſhod.

The Caravan-Baſhi believing he could not eſcape ſcot-free from ſo powerful a Prince, among the Merchants of the Caravans found out a rich Saddle, with Bridle and Stirrups, which were all ſet out and garniſh'd with maſſy Silver, with an embroider'd Quiver full of Arrows, together with a Buckler, the whole coming to about eleven or twelve hundred Livers; and adding to theſe of his own a piece of Scarlet, four pieces of Tiſſue of Gold and Silk, and ſix pieces oi Tiſſue of Silver and Silk, made a Preſent of all together to the Emir. But he refus'd all, demanding only two bundred thouſand Piaſters for Larins: which exchange being no way for the Merchants profit, rais'd a great diſpute. But at length, conſidering that it was in his power to ſtop and ſtarve us there, we only endeavour'd a Compoſition; which was obtain'd. Thereupon he took the Preſent, which perhaps he would not elſe have done. For two days that we ſtaid to weigh the Money, he ſent Proviſions to the chief of the Caravan; and at our departure, he ſent u • twelve Frails of Dates, and four young Camels that might be worth about forty Crowns a-piece.

Two days after we met a Schek, who among the Arabians is one of the chief of the Law. He was going to Mecca, croſs ſome part of Arabia the Happy, with a Train of ten or twelve Camels. He ſtaid all night with us, and one of his Servants having been dangerouſly wounded about two days before with a Musket-bullet, my Chirurgeon dreſt him, and gave him Salve and Tents, for which he was extreamly thankful. He ſent me to Supper a great Diſh of Pilaw, and the next day a whole Sheep. The Caravan-Baſhi likewiſe preſented him with two Ells of Scarlet.

The next we met with nothing worth obſervation, but the day following we met another Emir, of about Five and Twenty years of age▪ who came from Euphrates, and was travelling into the Happy Arabia. He had with him about five hundred Horſe, and three hundred Camels that carry'd his women. He preſently ſent to know what Caravan it was, and underſtanding that it conſiſted of many Franks, among whom their was a Chirurgeon: He ſent again to deſire the Caravan Baſhi to follow with the Caravan, to the place where he intended to pitch his Tents, which was not far out of the way. We did not think to have gone ſo far that day, but he led us to the beſt water in all the Deſert. The Princes Tent being ſet up, he ſent for my Chirurgeon, with whom I went along to know what his pleaſure was. He had upon his left Arm a Tetter, with a moſt filthy Scab as broad as a Crown piece; and this went and came at certain times in the year. He preſently ask'd the Chirurgeon whether he could cure him? to whom the Chirurgeon made anſwer, that the cure was not impoſſible, provided he knew where to get ſuch remedies as were convenient: For had he ſaid, he could have abſolutely cur'd him, the Emir would have carry'd him away with him, without any farther Ceremony. Thereupon he would have giv'n the Chirurgeon five hundred Crowns to have bought Medicines. But I made anſwer, that the cure would not coſt ſo much, and that if the Chirurgeon could meet with proper Drugs, I would lay out the Money my ſelf. The Emir content with that anſwer, ſent one of his chief People to Balſara, to come back with the Chirurgeon, when he had bought his Medicines. He himſelf ſtaid there three days in expecttion of him; but after we had pretended to ſeek for what we wanted, up and down the Town (for we enquir'd for ſuch things as we knew were not to be had) we ſent him back word that we could not find what we look'd for, and deſir'd his excuſe, in regard the attendance of the Chirurgeon would be of no uſe, where he had not proper remedies; which was the only way we could think of, to get cleverly rid of him.

The next days Journey after we had left the Arabian Prince, was through a Country altogether uninhabited; but the day following, which was the ſixtyfifth and laſt day of our being in the Deſert, we met after ſome time, with the ruines of ſome houſes on both ſides the way; which made us conjecture, that ſome great City had ſtood formerly in that place.

At length we came to Balſara, which I ſhall deſcribe in another place.

While I ſtay'd at Balſara, which was about three weeks, an Ambaſſador from the Great Mogul arriv'd there, who from Conſtantinople went to Bagdat to congratulate the Grand Signor for the Conqueſt of that City, which he had taken in ſo ſhort a time. The Emperour preſented him with three ſately Horſes, and a little Watch, the Caſe whereof was ſet with Diamonds and Rubies. But the Ambaſſador not knowing what belong'd to that little Engin, winding it up the wrong way, broke the ſtring. Coming to Balſara he ſent to the Carmalites to deſire them to mend his Watch; for he fear'd the loſs of his head, ſhould he return to his Maſter, and not ſhew him the Watch entire. It was at their Houſe that i then lay; and therefore not knowing what to do with it, they deſir'd▪ me to ſhew my skill: Thereupon I put on a new ſtring. But the Ambaſſador, when he underſtood to whom he was beholding, though it were but a trifle, profer'd me all the ſervice and kindneſs imaginable. Thereupon the Carmelites and Auguſtin Fryars deſir'd me to requeſt of the Ambaſſador in their behalf, that he would obtain the Great Turks protection for them, in caſe he took Balſara, that their Houſes and Churches might be preſerv'd; which I did, and obtain'd by his means full protection from the Grand Viſier. But they had no need of it, for the Turks did not make any attempt upon Balſara, hearing that the Perſians were advancing; beſides that the rainy ſeaſon was at hand, which will not permit an Army to keep the Field: So that had Bagdat held out eight days longer, the Grand Signor would have been conſtrain'd to have rais'd the Siege.

Having ſpoken of the Arabian Horſes, I muſt needs ſay, that there are ſome that are valu'd at a very high rate. The Mogul's Ambaſſador gave for ſome three, four, and ſix thouſand Crowns, and for another he offer'd eight thouſand Crowns, but the Horſe would not be ſold under t • n, and ſo he left it. When he was got home into the Indies, and had preſented the Mogul thoſe Horſes which he had carry'd along with him, being very lovely Creatures; he told his Maſter how he had offer'd eight thouſand Crowns for a Horſe more beautiful than any of them; but becauſe the Owner would not let him go under ten, he left him. The King incens'd that his Ambaſſador has ſtood for ſo ſmall a Sum, when it was for one of the greateſt Monarchs in the World, upbraided the poorneſs of his Spirit, and baniſh'd him for ever from his preſence, into a Province far diſtant from the Court. Thereupon the King wrote to the Engliſh to buy him the Horſe, who accordingly did ſo, and brought him to Surat, where the Governour-repaid them their Money. But the Horſe dy'd at Brampour.

Nor muſt I forget, that while I was at Balſara, twice there flew by ſuch a prodigious number of Locuſts that a far-off they appear'd like a Cloud, and darkn'd the Air. They paſs by Balſara four or five times in the year, the Wind carrying them into the Deſert, where they alight, and moſt certainly dye. Should they not be thus wind-driv'n, there could nothing live upon the Earth in ſome parts of Chaldea. They ſwarm all along the Perſian Gulf, and when the Veſſels come to Ormus at the time of the year, there are little Shops where people ſell Locuſts fry'd in Butter to thoſe that love that ſort of Diet. Once I had the curioſity to open the Belly of a Locuſt ſix Inches long, and found therein ſeventeen little ones that ſtirr'd; whenee it is eaſie to gueſs how thoſe Infects come to be ſo numerous, eſpecially in hot Countries.

There are ſeveral Barks that go from Ormus to furniſh both of the Perſian Gulf, where the people eat neither Bread nor Rice. I agreed with the Maſter of one of theſe Barks, and made my agreement that the Bark ſhould not be above half laden; for generally they lade them too deep, and in foul weather they are forc'd to throw half the Freight over-board, to▪ ſave the reſt.

From Balſara to the mouth of the River Euphrates, it is reck'nd to be twenty Leagues of Freſh-water. We ſtaid ſeven whole days for a Wind, which proving favourable, we came to Brander-ric, in forty-eight hours. This is the place where you muſt land, if you intend for Perſia, unleſs you are bound for Ormus. Branderric conſiſts only of five or ſix little Fiſhers Hutts; which Hutts are only Hurdles ſet one againſt another, and cover'd over, where they and their Families live. To the ſame place come Aſſes lad'n with Dates, which I was forc'd to hire for want of Horſes.

We were ſix days upon the Road from thence to Cazerom. This is a Mountainous Country, where there is Wood enough; but you muſt lodge in the Fields, for there are no Inns upon the Road. The way is pleaſant in ſome places, along the Banks of ſeveral Rivulets, and through verdant Groves ſtor'd with great quantities of Turtles. We kill'd a good many; which we eat, part with Pilaw, inſtead of Henns; ſome we roſted, making Sticks to ſerve for Spits.

Cazerom is a little Gity ill built, where there is but one Inn, and that none of the moſt inviting to Strangers neither.

From Cazerom to Schiras it is five days journey. The Road lyes over very craggy Mountains, which had been impaſſable, but for the Liberality of Ali Couli-Kan, Governour of Schiras. He made Ways where there were none before, and joyn'd Mountains together by Bridges, in Countries which otherwiſe had been inacceſſible. In the midſt of the Mountains is a wide gap or diſcontinuance, from whence a Plain extends it ſelf of about twenty Leagues in circuit. It is inhabited by Jews only, who are Silk-Weavers. In theſe Mountains you met with Tents, where the Chaldeans ſojourn, that come for cool Air and Paſturage in the Summer.

Coming to Schiras, I took Horſe there for Iſpahan, which I arriv'd in nine days. The Country over which you travel, between theſe two Cities, is part Plains, part Mountains; part wild, and part manur'd. Three days journey from Schiras you paſs the Mountain of Mayen, a little City where there is nothing worthy obſervation. Two days journey from thence you enter upon the Plains of the Province of Cuſcuzar, where the King of Perſia keeps his Race-Horſes. The next day I arriv'd at Yeſdecas, where the beſt Bread in Perſia is made. This is a little City upon a Rock, wherein there is a very fair Inn: at the foot whereof runs a little River that glides into the Valley, wherein grows that excellent Corn which is utter'd in Bread from that City.

In three days I went from Yeſdecas to Iſpahan. This was the firſt Road from Aleppo to Iſpahan.

CHAP. IV. Of the Road from Aleppo to Iſpahan, through Meſopotamia and Aſſyria, which I travell'd in my third Voyage to the Indies.

I Departed from Paris in my third Voyage to the Indies upon the ſixth of December 1643, and went to Ligorn, where I found the D ••• h Fleet ready to ſet Sail for the Levant. The Veſſel wherein I embark'd ſeeming▪ rather a Man-of-War than a Merchant-Man. We paſs'd through the Chanel of Meſſina, and lay there at an Anchor four days before the City. From thence paſſing by the Morea, we enter'd into the Archipelago, where the Fleet parted, according as every Ship was bound. Our Ship ſayl'd directly for the Port of Alexandretta, but though the Wind were favourable, we were ſtop'd for ſome time by a Pirate that met with us off the Eaſtern Point of Candy. We endeavour'd to have got clear of him; but the Pirate gaining upon us, we made ready. Thereupon the Pirate gave us three Broad-ſides, that went over the Ship without doing us any harm: which we anſwer'd by as many from our Ship, the firſt whereof brought his Fore-maſt by the Board; and the third Shot went through the Fore-caſtle and kill'd him ſome Men, as far as we could diſcern. At that very inſtant one of our Mariners cry'd out from the Top-maſt-head, A Sail from the South. Thereupon the Pirate left us, and made Sail after her: and we, glad of ſuch an eſcape, purſu'd our Voyage to Alexandretta, where we happily arriv'd; from whence I took Horſe for Aleppo, as I have already deſcrib'd.

The ſixth of March I departed from Aleppo in the company of two Capuchin Friars, Father Raphael and Father Yves, and the Venetian whoſe name was Dominica de Sanctis.

From Aleppo to Bir, where you croſs the Euphrates, it is four days journey for the Horſe-Caravan. The Country is well wooded, and well manur'd.

The ſeventh of March the great Rains that fell hinder'd us from getting to the uſual Stage, ſo that we could not gain Telbechar, another Town, where there is no Inn: which conſtrain'd us to ſtop a League on this ſide, and to go to a Cave that was able to contain three hundred Horſe. This is a Cave where the Bedouins or Feeders of Cattel thereabouts oft retire, who live after the manner of the Arabs, either in Rocks or in poor Hutts. The Cave has been hollow'd from time to time, there being ſeveral Niches in it like little Chambers. Our Caravan-Baſhi fearing ſome Ambuſcade, rode thither before to view the place, but finding it empty and free, we reſted there that night, and the next came to lye at M • zara, which is only a ſmall Village without an Inn: Neither was there any thing remarkable upon that Road. O • ly that near the Cave, in the Mountain, there is very good Water: And formerly upon the Mountain ſtood a Caſtle, of which ſome ruines are ſtill remaining. From the top of the Mountain there is a fair Proſpect as far as you can ſee, over very fair Plains on every ſide, and in ſeveral places very good Land, water'd by divers Channels which are brought from the River Euphrates. All the Rivolets alſo that you croſs from Aleppo to Bir come from the ſame River.

The fourth day after we parted from Aleppo, being the ninth of March, we came to the banks of Euphrates. Bir is on the other ſide of the River; and becauſe that ſometimes the Goods cannot be unladen all in a day; their is a fair and large Inn, to defend the Merchants from the Bedoüins, which would elſe diſturb and rob them, were not they and their Goods in that manner ſecur'd▪

You croſs the Euphrates in large Ferry Boats, and as ſoon as you are got over the other ſide of the River, the Cuſtomer and his Officers comes and tells the Bales, and writes down the names of the Merchants to whom they belong. The Caravan does not lye in the Town, which is built like an Amphi • he • tre upon the brow of a very craggy Mountain, but paſſes forward over a ſcurvy Road on an Inn upon the top of the Mountain. Near the Inn there are ſeveral Chambers cut out of the Rock, where they that cannot get room in the Inn are forc'd to lye. That Evening the Cuſtom-Officer comes to receive his duties, being two Piaſters upon e • ery load of Goods, whether upon Horſe or Mule, though the Mules carry more than the Horſes; and half a Piaſter for every Beaſt that carries Proviſions. But for Saddle Horſes or Mules there is nothing demanded.

The Bir, or Berygeon, as the Natives call it, is a large City for an Eaſtern City, ſituated upon the brow of a Hill. Below upon the River ſtands a Caſtle that declares its Antiquity; it is half as long as the City, but narrow, and without any other Fortification, ſaving only a Tower that ſcours the River, in which there are eight or nine pitiful Culverins. In the higheſt part of the Town ſtands another Caſtle where the Governour reſides, who is an Aga, whom ſome call a Baſha, having under him two hundred Janiſaries, and four hundred Spahi's. The City 〈◊〉 ill built▪ as are the moſt part of the Cities of Turkie: But there are an extrordinary plenty of all things, excellent Bread, good Wine, and great ſtore of the beſt ſort of Fiſh.

The tenth day after we had travel'd elev'n hours in the firſt Lands of Meſopotamia▪ that lye between the two Rivers Euphrates and Tigre, which at preſent they call Diarb • k, we came in the evening to Sharmley. This is a very good Town, with a fair Inn, and Baths round about it. About twice Muſquet-Shot from thence, ſtands a Mountain alone by it ſelf, like Montmartre near Paris: Round about it are Plains, and at the top of it ſtands a Fortreſs, with a Garriſon of two hundred Spahi's, by reaſon that the Arabs ſometimes croſs Euphrates, and make incurſions upon that ſide. In the year 1631, the Grand Viſier returning from Bagdat, where he had loſt the greateſt part of the Grand Signor's Army, not being able to take the City; fearing the loſs of his head if he return'd to Conſtantinople, and knowing himſelf to be in great eſteem among the Souldiers, reſolv'd to quarter himſelf upon this Mountain, and to erect a Fortreſs to ſecure himſelf from the tempeſt that threaten'd him. No doubt but if he could have brought about his deſign, he might have made himſelf Maſter of all Meſopotamia, and would have put the Grand Signor to a great deal of trouble. For if you intend for Aleppo, whether it be from Tauris, Moſſul, or Bagdat, unleſs you travel thorough the Deſert, you muſt paſs through Sharmley, under the command of this Fortreſs, for Proviſion and Waters ſake. The work was gone ſo far forward, that there was a good defence rais'd, and the Viſier had already enclos'd all the Mountain together with the Inn, with a Wall almoſt twenty foot thick, and three fathom high, when he was ſtrangl'd by thoſe in whom he moſt confided, the Grand Signor having gain'd them either by threats or by rewards.

The eleventh, after a Journey of ten hours we came to Ourfa, where the Caravan uſually ſtays eight or ten days; for here it is that they live that hire the Horſes and the Mules, who have always ſome buſineſs in this place. We lay at an Inn three or four hundred paces diſtant from the City toward the North. When the Inn is full, the reſt retire into the Grotto's which are near at hand, and are very good quarters. Here the Toll-gatherer preſently comes and counts the Bales without op'ning them. They that carry any Sacks muſt pay for half a Load; if not, he op'ns the Sack to ſee if there be any Merchandiſe therein, for then the Merchant muſt pay the whole duty.

Ourfa is the Capital City of Meſopotamia, built as they ſay, in the ſame place where Abraham liv'd, and where ſtood the ancient Ed • ſſa, where the people of the Country report, that King Abdgarus generally kept his Court. There are ſtill to be ſeen the ruines of a Caſtle; from whence they add, that the ſame King ſent to CHRIST for his Picture, and offer'd him his Kingdom and his people to defend him againſt the Jews; whom he underſtood to be his Enemies. The Chronicles of the Armenians report, that Abagarus was their Country-man, and that in his Reign they began to be Chriſtians, and to be Baptiz'd by the hands of an Apoſtle, whom CHRIST ſent to that Prince after his Reſurrection. Neither is this Caſtle yet ſo far ruin'd, but that there is ſtill to be ſeen a ſpacious Hall, and three or four handſom Rooms with ſome relicks of Moſaick work. I was curious to ſee what ever was remarkable in this City. And firſt they led me to a large Fountain which reſembles a Fiſh-pond, the Spring whereof is under the Foundations of the principal Moſquee, which was built in honour of Abraham. The Chriſtians of the Country ſay, that it was in that place where he pray'd, before he went about to Sacrifice his Son Iſaac, and that two Springs of Water aroſe from the two places where he reſted his knees, which now feed the large Fountain I have made mention of. It is pav'd with Free-ſtone, and ſo full of Fiſh, that if you throw them in a little Bread, they will follow you from place to place as you walk by the ſide of the Pond. There is no medling with them; for the Turks have a great veneration for thoſe Fiſh, which they call Abraham's Fiſh. Beſides that, the place about the Fountain where the water wid'ns it ſelf to water all the City, is cover'd with very fair Carpets, for about twenty paces in bredth. This Fountain at length falls into a little River that runs by the Walls. As for the Grotto where the two Springs riſe, there is no going into it before you have pull'd off your Shooes, and it is a great favour for a Chriſtian to ſee it; ſuch a favour as coſt me ſix Piaſters. I alſo ſaw the Church, under the portal whereof, they ſay, St. Alexis liv'd ſeventeen years a private life. It ſtands in the middle of a Church-yard, in the higheſt part of the Town, in the poſſeſſion of the Armenians. But their principal Church is about a quarter of an hours walking from the City, built by St. Ephren, who is there buried. The Monaſtery ſtands yet entire, enclos'd with fair Walls. In the Church I ſaw a large Bible in Armenian Characters. The Sepulchre of St. Ephren is in a Cave at the foot of the Mountain, to which there alſo belongs a Chappel, where they keep three or four Lamps continually burning. There are other Grotto's up and down the Mountain, where are to be ſeen very ancient Sepulchers of the Chriſtians. The City of Ourfa is ſeated in a good ſoil, very well manur'd, which extends it ſelf out of ſight toward the Eaſt. There are ſeveral pleaſant Gardens near the walls, water'd by little Channels brought thither by Art. The ſoil produces good Wine, ſo that a man may live as well at Ourfa, as in any part of Turkie. While I ſtay'd there, I kill'd abundance of Feldfares in thoſe Gardens; and indeed there is great ſtore of wild Fowl all the Country over. The Walls of the City are of Freeſtone, with Battlements and Towers; but within, the houſes are ſmall, ill built, and ruinous: And there are ſeveral void ſpaces in the City, which makes Ourfa to look rather like a Deſert than a Metropolis. The City is Govern'd by a Baſha, who has under him a hundred and fifty Janiſaries, and ſix hundred Spahi's, ſtanding more in need of Cavalry than Infantry, by reaſon of the Incurſions of the Arabians, eſpecially in harveſt time. In ſhort, Ourfa is the place where they dreſs ſuch great quantities of Cordovan Skins, by reaſon of the waters particular to the Country, which give them that peculiar beauty. The Yellow Skins are dreſt at Ourfa, the Blew at Tocat, and the Red at Diarbequir.

The twentieth of March, we ſet out of Ourfa, and after a Journey of ſix hours, we lay at a pittiful Village where the Inn was fal'n all to decay. There is a Fountain of excellent water by it, which is all the convenience of the place, for there is no Proviſion to be had.

The twenty-firſt we travel'd nine hours, and came to lye near ſeveral Caverns which are very deep; at the • ntry whereof there are little Rooms, which are ſuppos'd to be the places where the People of the Country liv'd that fed their Cattel thereabouts. There is alſo Rain-Water to be had in ſome of the Concavities of the Rock. Half this days journey you muſt paſs over Rocks, where it is almoſt impoſſible, and very dangerous to keep your Horſes back.

The twenty-ſecond, having travel'd elev'n hours, we lodg'd near a Cavern, having forded a River that runs at the foot of it. There are two great Grotto's on each ſide, where Travellers take up their Quarters, and whither the Natives of the Country bring Proviſions both for Horſe and Man. The Toll-gatherers, coming from a Fort about three Leagues diſtant from theſe Caverns, here exact two Piaſters and a half for every Horſe and Mules Load; and ſearch your Sacks, to ſee if there be no Merchantable Goods therein. About half the way of this days journey you meet with a City quite deſerted by the Inhabitants; and about an hours march after that, with Tombs of Stone, in the middle whereof ſtands a Croſs, with Armenian Characters.

The twenty-third we travel'd elev'n hours, and lay at Dadacardin. This appears to have been a great Town, but is all ruin'd: nor is there any thing remaining but a long Stone • ridge very well built, under which runs a River that is very broad when it overflows. The People of the Country have no other Habitations than the Hollows of Rocks; yet they bring to the Travellers Hens, Butter, Cheeſe, and other Proviſions; which they ſell very cheap.

The twenty-fourth we travel'd nine hours, and lay at a place call'd Cara, built upon a Hill. The Caravan lay at the Inn; but the two Capuchins and I lay at a private Chriſtian's Houſe, who carry'd us to the Church, where was then the Vertabet or Biſhop of Merdin. It was a pitiful poor Church, where they had nothing but two Planks ſupported with four Sticks inſtead of an Altar▪ They dare not leave any Furniture in it, but as ſoon as the Prieſt has ſaid Service, he muſt have a care to take away every thing, as well the Planks as the Covering of the Altar, which was only a Painted Cloth: For the Turks that travel that way, if it be foul weather, will break open the Door, put their Horſes there, burn the Altar, and take away whatever they find.

In the Village where we lay, there was a Pond, the ſides whereof were ſurrounded with fair Free-ſtones, which were fetch'd from the Chriſtian Churches, and the Tombs of the Chriſtians thereabouts. Among the reſt, there was one very large Stone, with an Epitaph upon it in large Latin Letters; whereby we knew it to be the Tomb-ſtone of a Norman Gentleman, who had been a Captain of Foot. The Biſhop inform'd us, that it is recorded in the Armenian Stories, that the French were a long time in this Country, at what time the Chriſtians were Maſters of Syria. This Country is all a large Plain, about twenty Leagues in length; which might be well manur'd, and make the Inhabitants rich, did not the Tyranny of the Turks, and the Incurſions of the Arabs, reduce them to the utmoſt degree of Poverty.

The twenty-fifth, after we had travel'd eight hours, we lay at a Village call'd Couſaſar, where there was no Inn. There were formerly three great Monaſteries, a quarter of a League one from the other. The Turks have ruin'd two, all but the Steeples of the Churches that belong'd to them. The third, which ſtands all entire, and is the faireſt Pile of Building, ſerves for a Moſquee. They have made Shops round about the Cloyſters, in the middle of which is a fair Spring of Water.

The twenty ſeventh we lay ſtill at Couſaſar, being the place where you muſt pay the Cuſtoms of Diarbequir, which is not above two days journey off, amounting to two Piaſters and a fourth part, for every Load of Merchants Goods.

Merdin is not above two Leagues from Couſaſar. This is a little City ſeated upon a Mountain, with good Walls, and a fair Fountain repleniſh'd from the Caſtle; which ſtands upon the North-ſide, in a place yet higher, that commands the City; where there lives a Baſha, who has under him two hundred Spahi's, and four hundred Janizaries. Merdin is the place where was born the Lady Maani Gioerida, the firſt Wife of Pietro de la Valle, ſo well known for his famous Travels.

As for Couſaſar, which is a large Village, it is inhabited for the moſt part by Armenian Chriſtians and Neſtorians. The Armenians perform Divine Service in their own Language; the Neſtorians in the Chaldaïc. The latter ſhew'd me two Bibles in a large Volume, in the ſame Language, writt'n in Vellum, all the Capital Letters being in Gold and Azure. They ſeem'd to be very old; and one of their Prieſts told me, that it is 937 years ago ſince one of them was writt▪n; the other not above 374 ſince. When Service is done, they put them in a Cheſt, and hide them under Ground. I would have giv'n 200 Piaſters for the oldeſt, but they durſt not ſell it, in regard it belong'd to the Church, and was not at their diſpoſal.

The twenty-ſeventh, after we had travel'd nine hours, we arriv'd at Karaſara, which had been formerly a great Town, and no doubt inhabited by Chriſtians; as appears by ſeven or eight Churches half ruin'd, though the Steeples are little the worſe. They ſtand at a good diſtance one from the other; and upon the North▪ſide of one of thoſe Churches there is a Gallery, at the end whereof, through a little Door you deſcend about a hundred Steps, every Step being ten Inches thick. When you come under the Church, you meet with a larger and bigger Vault, ſupported with Pillars. The Building is ſo contriv'd, that there is more light below than in that above; but▪ of late years the Earth has ſt • p'd up ſeveral Windows. The great Altar is in the Rock; on the right ſide whereof is a Room, which receives the light from ſeveral Windows contriv'd in the Rock. Over the Gate of the Church was a great Free-ſtone, wherein were certain Letters that I could not read. On the North-ſide of the ſame Church under Ground are to be ſeen two great Ciſterns, each four hundred and fifty Paces long; with two great Arches, ſuſtain'd with ſeveral Pillars. Every year they fill them with the Water that falls from the next Mountain, and makes a kind of a River. A quarter of a League from the Church, you deſcend the Mountain for above a hundred Paces together among the Rocks, on each ſide whereof are Rooms cut out of the Rock. Upon every Door there is a Croſs; and in every Room as it were a Bench, and a Table, with a little place about the length of a Man, like a Bedſted, all cut out of the Rock. At the bottom of the Rock is a Hall, round about the Wall whereof is a Bench to ſit on. The Roof is all plain, without any Arch; in the middle whereof there is a Hole to the top of the Mountain: but in regard it gives no light, 'tis very probable 'twas only made to let out the Smoak when they dreſt their Meat; or elſe to let in the freſh Air, as I have ſeen in many Villages upon the Perſian Gulf. Upon the higheſt of thoſe Mountains ſtands a paltry Village, where they buy their Victuals. But before the Caravan arrives, certain Merchants ride before to inform themſelves from the Herdſmen, whether they know of any Thieves in the Grotto's, that often hide themſelves there in expectation of Prey.

In the year 1638, Sultan Amurat going to beſiege Babylon, march'd this very way, as well to ſee theſe Ruines, as to give order for the demoliſhing a Fort that ſtood not above two Leagues off of Karaſera, which the Thieves of the Country made their place of retreat. He alſo at the ſame time caus'd the Road to be clear'd for four days journey, by ord'ring the Stones to be pickt up and laid in heaps, all along the Road. He alſo built a Bridge over the River. And indeed, that March of the Grand Signor was very advantageous to all Travellers that paſs this way.

The twenty-eight we travel'd eight hours, and came to Nesbin, anciently Niſibis. Two or three hours travel on this ſide, near the Road, is a kind of Hermitage, being a ſmall Room enclos'd with Walls, the Door whereof is ſo low, that a Man muſt creep upon his Belly to get in. Three or four Jews went and perform'd their Devotions at this Hermitage, believing it to be the place where the Prophet Eliſha was buried.

The Country from Couſaſar to Nesbin is a large Plain, where for the firſt days journey you ſhall ſee no other green Herb upon the Ground but only Pimpernel; the Roots whereof are ſo large, that there are ſome a Foot and a half in diameter. The next day, the Fields are cover'd with a large thick Leaf, the Root whereof is bulbous, and as big as an Egg. There are alſo great ſtore of yellow, red, and violet Flowers, Tulips of ſeveral colours, Emonies, and ſingle Daffadillies. But in general Meſopotamia is a very barren Country, and there are very few places that can be better'd by Art or Induſtry.

Nesbin is only the Shadow of the ancient Niſibis, being now only a large Village; the Inhabitants whereof are Chriſtians, both Armenians and Neſtorians. Our Caravan lodg'd a little beyond, in a Church-yard adjoyning to one of the Armenian Churches. The next day, hearing people ſing, I went to the Church with the two Capuchins, where I ſaw an Armenian Biſhop, with his Miter, and a wooden Croſier, accompany'd with ſeveral Prieſts and a good Congregation. When Service was done, after ſome few Compliments between us, he led us down un • er the Church into a Chapel, where he ſhew'd us the Sepulcher of St. James Biſhop of Niſibis. In the Church-yard is a Stone about a Foot thick, and ſix high; upon which were laid ſeveral Candles of Wax and Tallow, which the Poor offer in their Neceſſities, but eſpecially in their Sickneſſes. They believe that Stone to have been the Pedeſtal for the Statue of ſome Saint, which the Turks have defac'd: ſo that they give the ſame Honour to the Pedeſtal, as they would have giv'n to the Statue. There arc alſo ſome Roman Characters to be ſeen, but half worn out, and ſpaces brok'n off in ſome parts: ſo that I could not learn, in Honour of whom that Statue was erected. Half a League from Nisbin runs a River, which you croſs over a Stone-Bridge. In the way to the River are ſeveral pieces of Wall, with an Arch, which made me conjecture, that formerly the City extended as far as the River.

Twice Musket-ſhot from the River you meet with a Stone half buried, upon which are written certain Latin Words; whereby it appears that it was the Tombſtone of the General of an Army that was a French-man: but I could not read his Name, which time had defac'd. The ſame Biſhop inform'd us, that formerly the Moors having beſieg'd City, there came ſuch a prodigious company of ſtrange Flyes, and did ſo torment both Men and Horſes, that they were forc'd to ſtrange the Siege. You muſt pay the ſame Toll at Nisbin as in other places, that is, two Piaſters and a half for every Mule or Horſes Load. We lay there three days together, to furniſh our ſelves with Proviſions 'till we came to Mouſſul, which is five days journey from Nisbin; the Country between being altogether deſert and uninhabited. There is no Water to be ſound but in two places, and that not very good neither; near to which you ſhall ſee ſome few Herdſmen grazing their Cattel.

The firſt of April we departed from Nisbin; and after we had travel'd eleven hours, we lay near to a River, whither certain Shepherds brought us Hens to ſell.

The ſecond we travel'd ten hours, and lay at a paltry Town, where we met with nothing to eat.

The third we travel'd thirteen hours, and lodg'd by a pitiful Fountain, the Water whereof was hardly good enough for our Horſes.

The fourth we travel'd ten hours, and came to lodge by the Bank of a little River, near to which appear'd the Ruines of a Bridge and a Caſtle.

The fifth we travel'd eleven hours, to reach Mouſſul, which is not far from the ancient Niniveh.

Mouſſul is a City that makes a great ſhew without, the Walls being of Free-ſtone; but within it is almoſt all, ruin'd having only two blind Market-places, with a little Caſtle upon the Tigris, where the Baſha lives. In a word, there is nothing worth a Man's ſight in Mouſſul, the place being only conſiderable for the great concourſe of Merchants; eſpecially the Arabians and Curds, which are the Inhabitants of the ancient Aſſyria, now call'd Curdiſtan, where there grows great plenty of Galls, and for which there is a great Trade. There are in it four ſorts of Chriſtians, Greeks, Armenians, Neſtorians, and Maronites. The Capuchins had a pretty Dwelling upon the Tigris; but the Baſha laying a Fine upon them, becauſe they went about a little to enlarge it, they were for'd to quit it. The City is govern'd by a Baſha, that has under him, part Janizaries, part Spahi's, about three thouſand Men.

There are only two ſcurvy Inns in Mouſſul, which being full when we came, I caus'd my Tent to be ſet up at the Meydan, or great Market-place.

Now to ſay ſomething in general of the difference of the two Rivers, Tigris and Euphrates, in reference to their Courſe and Waters: I obſerv'd that the Water of Euphrates appear'd ſomewhat red; and that the Stream was not ſo ſwift as that of Tigris, which ſeem'd to be whitiſh, like the Loire. As for its Courſe, Euphrates runs a far longer way than Tigris. But now let us croſs the Tigris, over a Bridge of Boats, to view the ſad Ruines of a City that has made ſuch a noiſe in the World; though there be now ſcarce any appearance of its ancient ſplendour.

Niniveh was built upon the left Shoar of the Tigris, upon Aſſyria-ſide, being now only a heap of Rubbiſh extending almoſt a League along the River. There are abundance of Vaults and Caverns uninhabited; nor could a man well conjecture whether they were the ancient Habitations of the people, or whether any houſes had been built upon them in former times; for moſt of the houſes in Turkie are like Cellars, or elſe but one Story high. Half a League from Tigris ſtands a little Hill encompas'd with Houſes, on the top whereof is built a Moſquée. The people of the Country ſay 'twas the place where Jonas was bury'd; and for that place they have ſo great a veneration, that no Chriſtians are ſuffer'd to enter into it, but privately, and for Money. By that means I g • t in with two Capuchin Fryars; but we were forc'd to put off our Shooes firſt. In the middle of the Moſquée ſtood a Sepulchre, cover'd with a Perſian Carpet of Silk and Silver, and at the four corners, great Copper Candleſticks with Wax Tapers, beſides ſeveral Lamps and Oſtridge-Shells that hung down from the Roof. We ſaw a great number of Moores without, and within ſat two Dervi's reading the Alcoran.

About a Musket-Shot from Mouſſul toward the North-Eaſt, ſtands a great Ruin'd Monaſtery, enclos'd with high Walls, the greateſt part whereof is ſtill to be ſeen.

We ſtay'd ten days at Mouſſul, and having provided all things ready for the reſt of our Journey, we ſet forward for Iſpahan.

CHAP. V. A Continuation of the Road from Nineveh to Iſpahan: Together with the Story of an Ambaſſador, call'd Dominico de Santis.

HAving paſs'd the Tigris, we ſtay'd three quarters of an hours Journey from Nineveh for ſome Merchants that were to go along with the Caravan. The way which we took was not the uſual Road to Perſia; but it was a way wherein there were leſs Duties to be paid; and beſides, it was a ſhort cut, the Caravan making but fifty-eight days Journey between Aleppo and Iſpahan. From the very banks of the River to the place where we Lodg'd that Evening, we ſaw nothing but continu'd Ruines, which makes me believe, it was the place where the ancient Nineveh ſtood.

We ſtaid two days near the Moſquée, where according to the tradition of the Turk, Jonas was bury'd, and made choice of a Curd, or Aſſyrian, for our Caravan-Baſhi, though the people are generally Thieves, and muſt be carefully look'd after. But it was a piece of Policy, becauſe we were to croſs the ancient Aſſyria, now call'd Curdiſtan; the Language of which Country is a particular Speech.

In the two firſt days Journey we croſs'd two ſmall Rivers that fall from the Mountains, and empty themſelves into Tigris. Our firſt Journey was through a plain Country all along by the ſide of a little River; and the ſecond Evening we lodg'd by the ſide of a great River that falls from the Mountains toward the North, and running to the South, diſcharges it ſelf into Tigris It is call'd Bohrus, being a very rapid Stream, full of Fiſh, but more eſpecially excellent Trouts. The Caravan was two days paſſing that River, by reaſon there were no Boats. For the people are forc'd to tye long Perches four five together one upon another, which the Natives call a Kilet. They make it four-ſquare, and put underneath it about a hundred Goat-Skins full of wind, to the end the Kilet may not touch the water. Beſides the Merchant muſt be careful to ſpread good ſtore of thick Felts over the Kilet, of which he muſt be provided to keep off the Water, leſt the Bales that ſink the Kilet ſhould take wet. At the four corners are four Perches that ſerve for Oars, though they avail but little againſt the force of the Tide; ſo that you muſt be forc'd to hale the Kilet four or five hundred Paces a'this ſide up the River, and then row down the Stream to the place where you intend to Land the Goods. When the Goods are Landed, the men are forc'd again to draw the Kilet by main ſtrength out of the water, to take away the Goat-Skins which are then to be lad'n upon the Mules appointed to carry them. As for the Horſes, Mules, and Aſſes, as well thoſe that carri'd the Goods, as thoſe upon which the men ride; ſo ſoon as the Herdſ men thereabout ſee a C • ravan coming, they flock to the River-ſide. Thoſe people that wear nothing but a courſe piece of Linen or a Goat-skin to cover their nakedneſs, take off their Cloaths and wind them about their Heads, like a Turbant. Then every one • yes a Goat skin blow'd up under his Stomach; and then two or three of the moſt expert mounting the ſame number of the beſt Horſes, which are brid • 'd, put themſelves firſt into the Water, while others follow them ſwimming, and drive the Horſes before them; holding the Beaſt by the Tayl with one hand, and ſwitching him with the other. If they find any Horſe or Aſs that is too weak, they tye a Goat-skin under his Belly to help him. Conſidering which difficulties, it cannot take up leſs time than I have mention'd to get over a Caravan of five or ſix hundred Horſes.

The Caravan being thus got over, for two or three days has but a very bad Road. The firſt days journey the Horſes were continually in the Water up to the mid-leg; and the ſecond, and part of the third we travel'd through a very deſert Country, where we met with very little food for our Horſes, and only a few Brakes to boy • our Rice. Having got over this bad way, we came to a River call'd the great Zar • e, over which we paſs'd upon a Stone-Bridge of nine Arches. They report that this Bridge was built by Alexander the Great, in his March againſt Darius. A quarter of a League to the South▪Eaſt, two Rivers meet, which empty themſelves into Tigris. Leaving the Bridge, we came to a Town call'd Sherazoul, built upon a riſing Ground, upon three Redoubts. There reſides a Baſha, who muſt be brib'd with a ſmall Preſent to let the Caravan paſs; we lay by the Banks of a River, and ſtaid there two days. From thence we travel'd one days journey over dry Mountains, not finding any Water. But the next day we came into a pleaſant Plain, ſtor'd with Fruit-trees. This was the Plain of Arbele, where Alexander defeated Darius; containing about fifteen Leagues in all. It is water'd with ſeveral Rivulets, and in the middle of the Mountain riſes a little Hill about half a League in circuit. It is all over cover'd with the faireſt Oaks that ever were ſeen; and on the top are the Ruines of a Caſtle, that ſeems to have been a ſumptuous Structure. The Country-people ſay that Darius ſtaid there while his Captains gave Battel to Alexander. Three Leagues from thence, near a great Mountain toward the North, are to be ſeen the Ruines of another Caſtle and ſeveral Houſes, where they add, that Darius ſecur'd ſome of his Wives when he loſt the Battel. This Caſtle is ſeated in a moſt lovely Proſpect. At the foot o • the Mountain riſes a Spring, which a quarter of a League off ſwells into a River that bears good big Boats. It runs winding about the Mountains to the Southward; ſo that two days journey from the Hill, you croſs it near a Town call'd Sherazoul, over a fair Stone-Bridge of nine Arches, whereof the Great Sha-Abas caus'd three to be brok'n down after he had tak'n Bagdat.

This City of Sherazoul is built after another manner than any other of the Cities in thoſe parts, being all cut out of a ſteep Rock for a quarter of a League together; ſo that you muſt go up to the Houſes by Stairs of fifteen, or twenty ſteps, ſometimes more, ſometimes leſs according to the ſcituation of the place. The people have no other Doors to their Houſes than only a thin round Stone, like a Mill ſtone, which they will roll away when they go in or out, the ſides of the Wall being ſo cut as to receive the Stone like a Caſe, being level with the Rock.

The tops of their Houſes are like Niches in the Mountain, where the Inhabitants have contriv'd Caves to keep their Cattel in: So that we judg'd it to be built for a place of ſafety to ſecure the Inhabitants from the Incurſions of the Arabians and Bedouins of Meſopotamia.

We came to Sherazoul upon Eaſter-Eve, and ſtaid there three days to refreſh our ſelves, after a Lent which we had kept very ſparingly. Here I found certain Springs that roſe up in large Bubbles, which after I had mix'd with two Glaſſes of Wine and drank up, I found to have a Purgative quality, having a kind of Mineral • aſt. Theſe Springs boyl up near the ſide of a River call'd Altun ſou, or, The River of Gold, that falls into the River Tigris, three days journey on this ſide Bagdat.

The next day we lay at a pitiful Town, upon the Frontiers of Turkie and Perſia.

The next day, being the fifth after we ſet out from Nineveh, we paſs'd over ſeveral Fens and hot Waters, that part the two Empires. Entring thus into Perſia, we met with a high Mountain cover'd with fair Oaks, which bear the Gall-Nuts, ſo high, that the Caravan was ſome hours ere it could get to the top. As we aſcended, but eſpecially when we were up, we heard ſeveral Muskets go off. At firſt we thought the people had been hunting the wild Boars or Stags, of which the Mountains are full: but the report of the Guns being too loud and too thick for Hunters, we ſtood upon our guard; and I believe we ſhould have mended our paces, had we known what was intended us. Beſides, I remember'd that the Country people would not ſell any thing but for Powder and Bullet, which the Caravan-Baſhi advis'd me not to let them have, for fear they ſhould make uſe of it againſt our ſelves. From the Mountain we deſcended into a fertil Plain, water'd with ſeveral Rivers; and night approaching, we ſet up our Tents, not fearing any thing, becauſe we were in the Dominions of the King of Perſia, where there is ſo much ſecurity in travelling. After that we ſent our Servants to the Tents of the Country-men, but they brought us nothing but Bread made of Acorns, than which the poor people thereabouts eat no other. This Acorn is about the bigneſs of our Nuts; and once I met with a Branch that had thirty Acorns, and twenty-three Gall-Nuts, all at one time growing upon it.

The Province which we travel'd through then, compos'd the greateſt part of the ancient Aſſyria. But now to come to the Story of Dominico de Santis the Venetian. He had Letters of Credence from the Pope, the Emperour, the King of Poland, and the Republick of Venice, to the King of Perſia; and he went in the Caravan through the Grand Signor's Territories, never diſcovering himſelf who he was; but coming into Perſia, he took upon him without fear the Title of Ambaſſador from the Commonwealth of Venice.

From the Plain where we lodg'd, it is two days journey to a good •• g Town, to which belongs a Fortreſs, where the Governour of the Province has a Lieutenant, with about two thouſand Horſe under his Command. The Fortreſs is upon the right hand toward the South, after three hours riding upon the High-way. To this Lieutenant, the Caravan-Baſhi was according to duty bound to give notice of the Arrival of the Caravan, and an account of the Perſons and their Merchandize. This Venetian was a perſon ill fitted for the quality of an Ambaſſador, being a perſon of no Parts; which made me wonder that ſuch great Princes, and ſo wiſe a Commonwealth, ſhould ſend ſuch a perſon upon a Concern of that importance. For the Grand Signor then aſſailing Candy, he was ſent to excite the King of Perſia to engage him in a War againſt the Turk, thereby to keep off the Storm that threaten'd Chriſtendom. Thereupon I told the Ambaſſador, that it was neceſſary for him to give the Commander of the Fort firſt notice of his coming, to the end he might give advice thereof to Solyman Kan Governour of the Province, whoſe duty it was to advertiſe the King. Thereupon he requeſted me to ſend my Interpreter, which I did. Upon whoſe intelligence the Lieutenant of the Fort came to Compliment the Ambaſſador on the behalf of the chief Commander, and to conduct him to the Caſtle.

Thereupon the Ambaſſador, my ſelf, and my Interpreter, together with ſome Armenian Merchants went with him, travelling for three hours over the Mountains. By that time we came half the way, as we paſs'd through a Wood, we heard as it were ſome perſon give a Whiſtle; at which when the Lieutenant perceiv'd us to be ſomewhat ſtartl'd, he carry'd us to the place from whence the Whiſtle came, where we ſaw a Serpent about as big as a Man's Thigh, and about twelve Foot long, whoſe head was ſqueez'd between two Trees, that put him to pain. From that Mountain we deſcended into a pleaſant Plain, where the Commander of the Fortreſs ſtaid for us under his Tent. He had ſet it up by the ſide of a River, under the ſhade of ſeveral great Walnut-trees. So ſoon as he ſaw us, he roſe from his great Silk Tapeſtry Coverlet, and ſaluted us in a moſt civil manner, telling us, that aſſuredly Sha-Abas, his Maſter, would be very glad to hear that the Monarchs of Chriſtendom had ſent him an Ambaſſador, and that be would write to Solyman Kan, whoſe duty it was to advertiſe the Emperour. Thereupon he wrote and diſpatch'd away a Meſſenger, giving him order to tell the Deroga, or Judge of the Town, through which we were to paſs, that he ſhould make Proviſion for us and out Horſes 'till we came to the Governour. After he had ask'd us ſeveral Queſtions concerning the War between the Grand Signor and the Venetians, how many thouſand men he had as well by Sea as Land, and what number of Galleys and Ships? wherein we ſatisfy'd him according to the beſt of our knowledge. After he had civilly treated us, he ſent his Lieutenant back with us again to the Caravan. About ten a Clock the next night we diſlodg'd, and the Lieutenant and ſix Souldiers attended upon us▪ who told us he had order not to leave us, 'till he had brought us to Solyman Kan.

The next night we lodg'd between two Hills, among ſeveral Tents of Herds-men. Here it was that the Commander had order'd that we ſhould be treatrd by the Deroga. A Deroga, as I have ſaid, is the Judge of a Village: But this Deroga was chief of many Families, ſome of which were of Meſopotamia, others of Arabia. Theſe are all Herdſmen that never live in Houſes, but retire with their Ca • tle to the holes in the Rocks, where partly Nature, partly Art, have contributed to make them convenient Habitations.

So ſoon as we were alighted, four ancient men came and led the Ambaſſador and my ſelf to the Deroga's Tent. It ſeem'd to conſiſt of many Rooms, with a Hall in the middle, ſpread with Perſian Carpets. He caus'd us to ſit down upon Cuſhions, and then preſented us with a Pipe of Tobacco, and Water to waſh our Feet. After he had nobly treated us, and that we were upon taking our leaves, the Deroga was very much troubl'd that we had made a ſmall Preſent to his Son; telling us, that it was a crime for him to take any thing of the King's Gueſts, eſpecially from Strangers that had come ſo long a Journey.

The next day we lodg'd in a place where there was ſuch a prodigious quantity of Lillies that the Ground was almoſt cover'd with them. There were none that were white, being for the moſt part of a fair Violet colour, with a ſtreak of Red in the middle of every leaf; they are like our Lillies, but much bigger. And to drink the infuſion of the Roots of theſe Lillies, eſpecially thoſe whoſe Leaves are blackeſt, for fifteen days together, is a moſt Sovereign remedy againſt the • ox. Not long after came a Perſon of a goodly Aſpect, who ſeem'd to be an Arabian, but he ſpoke the Perſian Language, whom Solyman Kan had ſent to Compliment the Ambaſſador. He carry'd us to the Tent which the Governour had caus'd to be ſet up in a Garden near the Town, where he alſo Lodg'd the Capuchins. The Ambaſſador alſo ſent to Compliment the Kan by my interpreter; an • when the hour was come that we were to ſet forward, he gave order to ſix of the Captains of his Cavalry to accompany the Ambaſſador. The Houſe where the Governour liv'd in, was one of the moſt beautiful in Perſia. And as for the Governour himſelf, we found him in a Gallery that look'd upon the Garden, the Floor being all ſpread • ver with Tapeſtry of Gold and Silk, with large Cuſhions of Cloth of Gold all along the Wall. After ſome Queſtions and diſcourſe concerning the Affairs of Europe, they ſerv'd in Supper, which conſiſted of ſeveral Diſhes; but no Wine was to be had; our drink being only Sherbet and the juice of Granates, with Sugar for thoſe that deſir'd it. We were a long time at Supper, for 'tis the cuſtom of Perſia that when one man riſes, another takes his place and falls too, in ſo much that the Maſter of the Feaſt muſt have the Patience to ſtay 'till ſeveral have tak'n their turns; and when every one has done, the Cloth is tak'n away without any more to do. Here the Ambaſſador committed an abſurdity; for there are no Silver or Gold Spoons in Perſia, but only long Wooden Ladles that reach a great way. Now the Ambaſſador reaching his Ladle to a Purſlane-Diſh full of Pottage that was ſcalding hot, clap'd it preſently into his mouth; but finding it ſo hot that he could not endure it, after ſeveral ſcurvy faces, he threw it out of his mouth again into his hand, in the preſence of all the Company.

After we had ſtay'd five days at Sneirne, the Caravan-Baſhi ſignifi'd his deſire to purſue his Journey. Thereupon the Ambaſſador took his leave of the Governour, preſenting him with a Watch and a pair of Piſtols; who in retaliation preſented the Ambaſſador with a ſtately Horſe, and a Colt of two years old. The next day we diſlodg'd, and▪ purſu'd our Road to Amadan, which is not above three days Journey from Sneirne.

Amadan is one▪ of the largeſt and moſt conſiderable Cities of Perſia, ſeated at the foot of a Mountain, where do ariſe an infinite company of Springs that do water all the Country. The Land about it abounds in Corn and Rice, wherewith it furniſhe • the greateſt part of the neighbouring Provinces. Which is the reaſon that ſome of the Perſian Stateſmen hold it very inconvenient for the King of Perſia to keep Bagdat, as well by reaſon of the vaſtneſs of the Charge, as alſo for that it draws from Amadan that which ſhould ſupply other Provinces. On the other ſide, it is eaſie for the Grand Signor to hold it, by reaſon of the neighbourhood of Meſopotamia, Aſſyria, and the Arabs, Enemies to the Perſians: by which means Proviſions are very cheap, which the people would not know where to put off, if the King of Perſia were Lord of Bagdat.

We ſtaid at Amadan about ten days, by reaſon of the Rains; during which time the Caravans cannot travel. While we tarry'd there, we were viſited by ſeveral Babylonian Chriſtians, who were glad to ſee that we had eſcap'd the Clutches of the Baſha of Bagdat, who had giv'n order to the Baſha of Karkou, and the Bey of Sharaffou that commands the Frontiers of Turkie, to ſeize us, and carry us back • o Bagdat. For which we might have thank'd the Ambaſſador, and a malicious Rabbi, that came along with us in the Caravan from Aleppo • ▪ who finding the Feaſt of the Tabernacles to be at hand, and that we had a great way to Iſpahan▪ left us at Niniveh, to keep the Feſtival with the Jews of Babylon. Where that he might inſinuate himſelf into the Baſha's favour, he inform'd him that there was a Fringuiz in the Garavan, whom he look'd upon as a Spy, and that he was an Envoy into Perſia from the Commonwealth of Venice; for he carry'd no Merchandize, but had three Cheſts full of rich Habits, and ſeveral other things, which he took for Preſents to the Perſian King. For out of vanity or folly, the Venetian had ſeveral times open'd his Cheſt and expos'd his Gallantry to view. And yet he was ſo clutch-fiſted and niggardly in every thing, that when there was any occaſion to reward the Kan's Servant, or any of the Country-men that brought us the Dainties of the place, it came all out of my Pocket. So that I left him to my Interpreter and the two Capuchins; and with three Servants and a Guide, after I had ſtaid at Amadan three days, I took Horſe for Iſpahan.

When I came there, the Nazar or Maſter of the King's Houſhold hearing I had left an Ambaſſador behind me with the Caravan, enquir'd of me what manner of Perſon he was, but I pretended I had but little converſe with him, unwilling to diſcover his mean Spirit. The Evening before his Arrival the Nazar ſent to give the Fringuiz notice in the King's Name, that they ſhould be ready to go meet the Ambaſſador the next day; which we did, and brought him into the City and through Ali's Gate, that joyns to the King's Palace. Now 'tis the cuſtome for all Ambaſſadours to ſalute that Gate, by reaſon of a white Marble Stone made like an Aſſes back, and which ſerves for a Step: being, as they report, brought anciently out of Arabia, where Ali liv'd. So ſoon as you have ſtrid over that Stone without touching it, which were a great crime, you enter into a kind of a Gallery, where there are Rooms on each ſide, which ſerve for a Sanctuary for Criminals, which the King himſelf cannot fetch out of that place. That day that the new King receives his Enſigns of Royalty, he goes to ſtride over that Stone; and if by negligence he ſhould chance to touch it, there are four Guards at the Gate, that would make a ſhew of thruſting him back again.

But now the Maſter of the Ceremonies being ready to conduct the Ambaſſador to the Apartment alotted him, as an Ambaſſador that came from three great Monarchs, and a potent Commonwealth, he deſir'd to lodge at the Houſe of one Pietro Pentalet, deſcended from Venetian Parents; whereupon the Maſter of the Ceremonies conducted him thither, and caus'd his Dinner to be brought him. While we were eating, I counted thirteen Languages ſpoken at the Table; Latin, French, High-Dutch, Engliſh, Low-Dutch, Italian, Portuguez, Perſian, Turkiſh, Arabic, Indian, Syriac, and Malaye, which is the Language of the Learned, that is ſpoken from the River Indus to China and Japan, and in all the Iſlands of the Eaſt, like Latin in Europe; not reck'ning the little Moreſco or Gibbriſh of the Country. So that it is a difficult thing to obſerve what is talk'd in one Company, where the Diſcourſe begins in one Language, is purſu'd in another, and finiſh'd in a third: and for the Turks and Armenians, they never ſpeak above three or four Languages at moſt.

Now to ſhew you the Civility of the Perſians; the Maſter of the Ceremonies came to the Ambaſſador and told him, that if he did not like the Cookery of the Perſians, he had Order from the 〈◊〉 who is as the Grand Vizier in Turkie, to offer him Money inſtead of Diet, to the end he might dreſs his own Meat as he pleas'd himſelf. Upon which the covetous Ambaſſadour accepted his offer, and two hours after there was a Bag brought him of 50 Tomans. which amount to about 800 Crowns. The Franks being offended at his baſeneſs, ſlighted the Ambaſſador, and left him to keep Houſe by himſelf, which was poor enough God knows; an Onion or A Turnep ſerving his turn for a Meal. Some days after, he had audience of the King, to whom he preſented his Letters Credential from the Pope, the Emperour, the King of Poland, and the Commonwealth of Venice. Thoſe from the three laſt were well receiv'd, becauſe the Seals were of Gold, and for that the Paper was embeliſh'd with curious Flouriſhes; but the Pope's Letters were rejected with ſcorn becauſe the Seals were only of Lead, as the Bulls are uſually ſeal'd; and for that the Writing was very plai • ▪ For the Kings of Perſia, who are very nice, love things that are gay to the Eye; otherwiſe they look upon themſelves to be affronted. Dominico de Santis had better have taken upon him the meaner quality of an Envoy, than the title of an Ambaſſador, unleſs he had known better how to behave himſelf; eſpecially being ſo eclips'd as he was by a real Ambaſſador that arriv'd at Iſpahan ſome time after. All the Franks went forth to meet him, and the Maſter of the Ceremonies made him the ſame proffers as he had done to the Venetian: but he nobly anſwer'd, That whatever it were that the King of Perſia • ent him, he ſhould take it for a very great Honour: otherwiſe, if he would have eaten Gold, the King his Maſter would have allow'd him 30 M • les Load. Such perſons as behave themſelves with decency and at good grace, are the perſons that the Chriſtian Princes ſhould ſend into Perſia, who are the moſt refin'd Wits, and the beſt Politicians of all Aſia.

To conclude the Story of the Venetian, I will give you his Character. An Indian naturally of a good Wit having embrac'd Chriſtianity and an Eccleſiaſtical Life, went to Rome to compleat his Studies which he had begun at Goa; whether, the Pope, taking an affection to him, ſent him afterward as his Vicar. Dominico de Santis being▪ then at Rome, put himſelf into his ſervice, and follow'd him into the Indies, where I ſaw him the firſt time I went, in a mean condition. Upon his return to Venice, where he was in no credit before, he made people believe that he underſtood the Trade of Aſia; whereupon ſome particular Merchants truſted him with ſome Goods, which were caſt away at Seide. Thus poor and bare he return'd to Goa, where he got 800 Crowns by a charitable Contribution. From thence he travel'd to Iſpahan, where he fell into the acquaintance of Father Rigordi a Jeſuite, with whom he went into Poland: where making his brags of the great knowledge he had of the Affairs of Perſia, the King gave him that Commiſſion which I have already mention'd. The Emperour follow'd his Example, and the Commonwealth of Venice did the ſame: and to give the more luſtre and authority to his Embaſſy, they got the Pope to joyn with them. But alas! both Dominico de Santis, and all ſuch perſons as he, that go into Aſia without Brains and good Behaviour, do but proſtitute the Reputation of the Princes that ſend them. Such another was Father Rigordi, who after he had been thruſt out of Goa by the Portugals, went to Iſpahan, where he inſinuated himſelf by a Propoſition which he made of Marrying the King of Perſia, who was then a very young Prince, to the Dutcheſs of Orleance. Under which pretence he was well receiv'd and treated by the King; from whom he alſo receiv'd ſome Preſents by virtue of that Propoſal, which was good ſport to the Dutcheſs when ſhe heard of it.

As for the Venetian, the Atemadoulet, who was very glad to be rid of him, deſir'd the Muſcovite Ambaſſador, who was then upon his return home, to take him along with him, which he did as far as the Caſpian Sea, where they take Shipping for Aſtracan; but there the Muſcovite told him he could carry him no further: thereupon he was forc'd to come back to Iſpahan, and ſo to travel to Goa, whence the Portugals ſhipt him home for Charities ſake. But when he came to Venice, he was ſo far from being well receiv'd, that the Senate had like to have puniſh'd him ſeverely for giving ſo bad an account of his Negotiation.

CHAP. VI. Of the Road which the Author kept, when he Travell'd the fourth time into Aſia, to go from Paris to Ormus. And firſt of his Voyage from Marſeilles to Alexandretta.

I Set out from Paris in the company of Monſieur d' Ardiliere the eighteenth of June, 1651. and arriv'd at Marſeilles the ſixteenth of July. On the twenty-ſixth of Auguſt we ſet Sail, with a favourable North-Weſt Wind that blew very briskly the two next days; but at length it grew ſo very ſlack, that coming about to the North North-Eaſt, we made for Sardinia. Upon the ſecond of September by Sun▪riſing, we diſcover'd the Weſtern Coaſt of Sardinia, ſix Leagues from the Land. About Noon the Wind chopping about again to the North Weſt, we held on our firſt Courſe; and upon the third of September, we deſcry'd the Iſland Galita upon the Coaſt of Africa. On the fourth we diſcover'd the Iſland of Zambino before Tunis, and about Evening Cape Bon, which is the moſt Southerly Point of all Africa. The fifth we had a ſight o • the Iſl • nd of Pantalaria, and the Coaſt of Sicily. The ſixth we diſcover'd the Iſland of Goza, and the ſeventh the Caſtle that bears the ſame name.

We landed at Malta upon the day of the Nativity of the Virgin, which is a great day among the Malteſi, upon which they give thanks to God, for that the Turks rais'd their Siege upon that day.

The Grand Maſter goes to the Church of St. John, accompanied with all the chief Commanders in their Robes of Command, and the greateſt part of the Knights. All the Country-men and Citizens are up in Arms upon that day, and march to the Inn call'd the Auvernian▪houſe, with the Knight that goes to fetch the Standard. This Knight is clad in a Caſſock of Crimſon Velvet, with a Croſs of the Order, before and behind. He wears a Helmet upon his head, and carries the Standard upon his ſhoulders; and by him marches the Grand-Maſter's Page, who carries a Sword in one hand, and a Dagger in the other, both very richly Embelliſh'd, and giv'n the the Order by CHARLES the fifth. The Page that carry'd the Sword and Dagger was the youngeſt Nephew of Pope Innocent the tenth. The Souldiers and Citizens marching before to the Church door make a Lane for the Knight and the Page to paſs on to the Altar, where the Knight makes three bows, and having done as much to the Grand-Maſter, places himſelf on the right hand of the Grand-Maſters Chair, and the Page on the leſt. Then the Maſs and the Muſick begins, and while the Goſpel is reading, the Grand-Maſter takes the Sword and the Dagger out of the Page's hand, and holds them with the points upward all the remaining part of the Maſs. During the Elevation of the Hoſt, the Knights repeats the • ame Ceremony as at the beginning; and then the Bells ring, the great Guns go off, and the Souldiers give three Vollies. Maſs being ended, the Grand-Maſter retires, accompany'd as before, only that he is then attended by all the Eccleſiaſtical perſons of the City, and coming out of the Church, he proceeds with all the Infantry marching before him toward our Lady's of Victory, where they all go in proceſſion. While they make a ſtand in that place, the Souldiers give another Volley, which is anſwer'd by all the Canons in the Town, as alſo from the Ships and Galleys. After that they return to St. John's; and the Infantry Guard the Standard back to the Inn, while the Grand-Maſter goes to his Palace.

The ninth we view'd the Fortifications, which are ſtor'd with very fair pieces of Canon.

The tenth we ſaw the Pages perform their Exerciſes before the Grand-Maſter, which are generally vaulting and handling their Arms, both Muſquet and Pike.

The elev'nth we view'd the Arſenal, where I was aſſur'd that there were Arms for twenty thouſand men, being in good order, and rarely well look'd after.

The next • day we viſited the Infirmery, where the ſick are ſerv'd in Plate, as well the poor as ric • .

The twentieth we ſet Sail, having the Wind at Weſt-South-Weſt, and a freſh gale; ſo that upon the twenty-third we diſcover'd the Coaſt of the Morea, to which we approach'd ſo near, as to deſcry Navarin. In the Evening we ſaw the City of Coron, where there is a great Trade for Sallet-Oyl. From thence it was that the Great Turk Embarqu'd for Candy in the year 1645.

The twenty-fourth the Wind was at Eaſt▪North-Eaſt. In the Morning we diſcover'd the Cape of Matapan, which is the moſt Southern Point of Land in Europe, lying in the Morea, and at Noon the Iſland of Chergigo.

The twenty-fifth we drew near Cyprus, and deſcry'd a Mountain in that Iſland call'd Cam • liere, with ſome other Promontories toward the South.

From the twenty-ſeventh day 'till we came to Alexandretta, we perceiv'd the Sea to be all over cover'd with Pumice-ſtones, which happen'd from an Earthquake that had for ſome time before ſwallow'd up the Iſland of Santorini. Some think that it proceeded from the abundance of Sulphur, of which that Country is full, which took Fire, and was the death of above 750 of the Iſlanders, that were partly buried in the Ruines, and partly dy'd out of fear. They that remain'd alive became black like Charcoal; and the Vapours that aſcended out of the Abyſs ſully'd all the Silver as far as Conſtantinople; the noiſe of the Earthquake being heard as far as Smyrna.

The twenty-ninth by break of day we diſcover'd the Iſland of Cyprus.

The firſt of October by eight in the Morning we came to an Anchor before Salines, which is one of the Ports of Cyprus, where our Conſuls live. Here I ask'd ſeveral of the Chriſtians of the Country, how they did to live and pay their Carage? Who told me that it was with a great deal of difficulty, in regard the Iſland was very bare of Money; which was the reaſon that many Chriſtians turn'd Mahometans, to avoid paying their Carage, which is a Tribute that the Grand Signor lays upon all Chriſtians throughout his Dominions. He exacts from the pooreſt fix Piaſters a Head; but there are ſome that pay a hundred, or a hundred and fifty: and this Tribute is due ſo ſoon as ever they come to be eighteen years of age.

The Iſland of Cyprus is one of the moſt conſiderable in the Mediterranean Sea, more to the Eaſt than any of the reſt; bearing the title of a Kingdom, as being 500 Miles in circuit. It is not all of the ſame bredth, being of a triangular form, the ſides whereof are very unequal. To it there belong ſeveral Capes or Promontories, the principal whereof are St. Epiphanio, toward the Weſt; Cape de Gate, toward the South; Cape Diegrega, toward the North-Eaſt; Cape Cormachiti, toward the North; and Cape St. Andrew, upon the moſt Eaſtern Point of the Iſland. The principal Roads are that of Salines or Larneca, that of Paphos, and that of Cerines or Cerigni. The Haven of Famagoſta ſignifies nothing as to great Ships, there being none but ſmall Veſſels that can ride there. The Venetians had formerly made a ſmall Mole there to harbour their Gallies; but it is now quite ruin'd. The Road of Cerines is that where the Barks and Galliots lye that come from Caramania, and Payaſſes; and where the Baſha's land that are ſent as Governours of the Iſland from Conſtantinople, who reſide generally at Nicoſia. That City is almoſt in the middle of the Iſland, and was formerly a very large one, as appears by the compaſs of the ancient Walls. The new Walls are well terraſs'd within-ſide, and in a good poſture of defence. There are three Gates belong to the City; that of Famagoſta, that of Paphos, and that of Cerines. The City it ſelf is no uncomely place; the Venetians having adorn'd it with many fair Palaces, which the Turks demoliſh every day, out of hopes to find hidd'n Treaſure therein, and ſell the Stones to build new Houſes. The Cathedral that goes by the name of Santa Sophia is an ample and fair Structure, of which the Turks have now made a Moſquee, together with one more, which was formerly a Monaſtery belonging to the Auſtin ▪Fryars. The Greeks have there four Churches, and the Franks two; that is to ſay, the French Miſſionary Capuchins, and the Italian Miſſionary Soccolans. The firſt have a Church didicated to St. James, the others another, which is call'd Holy Rood Church. The Armenians alſo have another belonging to them, which is a very neat Building, which was formerly a Monaſtery of the Carthuſians. There it is that there is a Tomb, adorn'd with ſeveral Sculptures of Religious Nuns, eſpecially an Abbeſs with a Croſs in her Hand, the Writing about the Stone being in French Characters. The City is ſeated in a temperate Air and a fertil Soil, abounding with Water. It extends more in length than bredth, having been anciently nine Miles in compaſs; but the Venetians to make it ſtronger, reduc'd it to the circuit of three. The Work of the Fortification was ſo neat, and ſuch a proportion obſerv'd in all things, that the moſt famous Engineers eſteem'd it one of the moſt ſtately Fortreſſes in the World, when Selim the Second ſent an Army againſt it, under the Command of Muſtapha his Grand Vizier.

Famagoſta is a Sea-Town upon the Eaſt-ſide of the Iſland, and the chief Bulwark of it. It is kept in good repair, the Caſtle within being in form of a C • ttadel. The Turks have converted into Moſquees the Churches of the Chriſtians, who are not ſuffer'd to dwell in the City. They have only the liberty to come thither in the day, and to open Shops, which they ſhut up again at night, and then go home to their Houſes in the neighbouring Villages. The City is govern'd by a Bey, who has no dependence upon the Governour of the Iſland, who is oblig'd to maintain a Galley for the guard of the Coaſt.

Cerines is another little City, but without any defence, the Walls thereof being all tumbl'd to ruine. Only there is a Fortreſs toward the Sea, well built, with a Garriſon in it. There is alſo a handſom Monaſtery of Religious Greeks, built ſomewhat after the French manner; wherein there are ſome of the Cells which ſtand ſo upon the Sea, that they can fiſh out of the Windows. The Fields about it bear Cotton, which is the chief Revenue of the Monaſtery. There is only the Fort of Cerines upon the North, where the Iſland does not lye ſo open as toward the South and Eaſt; which beſides by that of Famagoſta, are guarded by the Forts of Salines, Limiſſo, and Paphos. The Inhabitants of the Iſland are for the moſt part Greeks, eſpecially in the Villages. They are clad after the Italian manner, both Men and Women; the Men wearing Hats like the Franks, and retaining their ancient Cuſtoms as much as is po •• ible for them to do. The Trade of the Iſland lyes in Cotton wool, which is the beſt in all the Eaſt; and ſome Silk, which is neither good, nor very plentiful. However the Iſland is fertil enough, did it not want Inhabitants enough to till it. As for Bread, Wine, Cheeſe, and Milk, they are all very cheap, and there is Oyl enough to ſerve the Iſland. But for the Wine, it is tranſported out of the Iſland to all the places of Trade not far diſtant. The beſt grows at the foot of Olympus, and is a delicious fort of Drink. The Country between Nicoſia and Famagoſta produces Cotton, of which there grows alſo ſome between Paphos and Limiſſo. The chief place where the Silk is made is call'd Cytherea, a large Town water'd with a fair River that runs from the Mountain of Venus. The River turns ſeveral Mills, which are the chief Revenue of the Iſland. There is Silk alſo made between Paphos and Limiſſo; upon the Road between which two places you meet with a Town call'd Piſcopi, where are to be ſeen ſeveral Aquaeducts, that carry'd the Water into the Rooms and Magazines were the people formerly made Sugar. But ſince the Iſland was tak'n from the Venetians, one of the Baſha's that was ſent as Governour, burnt up all the Sugar-Canes in the Country. Toward the Sea ſhoar near Limiſſo, is to be ſeen one of the faireſt Gardens of Cyprus, which they call Shiti; to which there belongs a magnificent Houſe, and a Grove of Orange-Trees. It was built by a rich Venetian, who had a good Eſtate in Lands thereabouts.

In Cpprus the people take a vaſt number of Birds as big as a Lark, eſpecially near the Mountain of the Holy Croſs. In the Months of September and October the Country-people of the adjacent Villages make themſelves little Hut • s in the Fields, where uſually thoſe Birds are wont to light, and feed upon the Seed of an Herb that grows there; which when it is dry, the people daub over with Lime twigs. But this they never do but when the North-Weſt Wind blows, and that the weather be very cold; for with a Southerly Wind they never take any. Theſe Birds are accounted great Dainties by the Venetians, who make no great Feaſts in Carnival-time wherein they do not ſet theſe Birds upon the Table, pil'd up in Diſhes like a Pyramid. They buy them up every year; being firſt prepar'd fit for exportation by the people, who having pull'd off their Feathers, parboyl them, and pickle them up in Barrels with Vinegar and Salt. When they are to be eat'n, they are ſet upon a Chaſing diſh, between two Diſhes. Sometimes there are above a thouſand Barrels exported out of the Iſland; and indeed, were it not for this Trade, the poor people would ſee but very little Money.

Upon the Mountain of the Holy Croſs ſtands a Church of the ſame name; upon which the report of the Country goes, that St. Helena returning from Jeruſalem left a piece of our Saviour's Croſs with the Chriſtians of Cyprus, who built a Church there, by means of the Liberality of the ſame Princeſs. Afterwards thoſe of the Town of Leucara took it from hence, and carry'd it to their Church, where I ſaw it. The piece is as big as the Palm of a Man's Hand, ſet in a great Croſs of Latten, emboſs'd with ſeveral Figures.

In the Kingdom of Cyprus that there is an Archbiſhop, and three Suffragans. The Archbiſhop takes upon him the Title of Nicoſia; to which Famagoſta belongs with all the Country between Nicoſia and Famagoſta, with the Territories of Nicoſia and all the Villages round. He has a Houſe about a League from Nicoſia, where the chiefeſt of his Revenue lies. Some years ſince he caus'd the high Altar of the Church to be painted and guilded, being a neat piece of Workmanſhip. Thus the Archbiſhop has under his Juriſdiction all the middle part of the Iſland, and ſome part toward the Eaſt. The Biſhops are the Biſhops of Paphos, Larneca, and C • rines.

The Greeks are very much addicted to the obſervation of their ancient Cuſtoms and Ceremonies; and generally their Maſſes are very long. Upon Sundays and Holy-days they riſe between one and two of the Clock in the Morning to ſing Mattens. To which purpoſe there is a Clerk that goes from door to door and knocks with a Hammer, to wake the people, and then cries out with a loud voice, Chriſtians go to Church. The men and old women fail not to go as being more zealous; but the maids and young women never go out of doors in the night for fear of the Turks. There are ſeven or eight Villages, the I • habitants whereof are Maronites, who came from Mount Libanus, and ſpeak Arabic at home, but Greek among the Iſlanders. They follow the Romiſh Religion, and have their Churches peculiar to themſelves.

The Iſland of Cyprus is no wholeſom Air, being ſubject to the ſpoil of a ſort of Locuſts, that ſome Summers deſtroy all their Fruit and Corn During the heats they hover in the Air, which they will darken with their number like a thick Cloud; but when the North Wind blows, it carry's them into the Sea, where they periſh.

There are in Cyprus three ſorts of colour'd Earth, a Grey black, a Red, and a Yellow; of which the Venetians fetch away great quantities for their courſer ſort of Painting. There's alſo a Mine of White Alome, which is the ſtone call'd Damiantlius. 'Tis thought that the Ancients had a way to ſpin this Alome into a kind of Cotton, and ſo to make out of it a certain ſort of Cloath that would not conſume in the Fire, but only be the more perfectly whiten'd thereby. The Indians formerly bury'd the dead bodies of their Kings deceas'd in Shrouds of this kind of Linen, and then putting them into the Fire, found the bodies all reduc'd to aſhes, but the Cloth whole; out of which they took the aſhes, and carefully put them into an Urne, which was prepared for their preſervation.

When the Baſha of Cyprus has a mind to view the Fortreſs of Famagoſta, he ſends to give the Bey, who is Governour thereof, notice of it. For it is at the Governours choice whether he will give him admiſſion or no. The Baſha Hali-Giorgi, being a comely old man of above a hundred and two years of age, ſetting out of Nicoſia in his Litter with about two hundred Horſe, when he was come within half a League of Famagoſta, the Governour of the place ſent his Lieutenant with a hundred Horſe to Compliment him, and to conduct him to the Town. Immediately they took upon them the Guard of the Baſha's Litter, who was not permitted to tak • along with him above eight or ten of his principal Officers. The Canons roar'd at his entry, and he was treated magnificently, but he lay not in the Town, being conducted back by the ſame party to the place where they met him in the Morning.

Upon the third day of October we ſet Sail about three a Clock in the Morning with a Weſt-North-Weſt Wind, and about Noon we were within ſight of Famagoſta, into which place we could by no means be admitted, by reaſon of the Wars between the Turks and Venetians. But as far as I could diſcern a far off, there is no eaſie acceſs to the Port, and for the City I could deſcry no part of it.

The fourth by break of day we got ſight of the Coaſt of Syria, Cape Canger, and the Gold of Antioch, and about Evening we arriv'd in the Rood of Alexandretta.

From thence we went to Aleppo, and ſtay'd there from the ſeventh of October to the thirteenth of December.

On the thirteenth we ſet forward for Nineveh, and with little variation of the Road which I have already deſcrib'd in my third Voyage from Paris. We arriv'd the ſecond day of February at Mouſſul or Nineveh, where we ſtay'd 'till the fifteenth, 'till the Kilets or Boats of the Country could be got ready. Our Kilet carry'd thirty Paſſengers, and ſixty hundred of Aleppo Weight, or thirty three thouſand pound of Paris Weight, upon which the Tigris bore us from Mouſſul to Babylon.

CHAP. VII. A Continuation of the Road which the Author kept in the Fourth Voyage into Aſia, and particularly of his paſſage upon the Tigris from Nineveh to Babylon.

THE fifteenth of February we put off from Mouſſul, and after we had ſwam ſix hours, we came to lye near a hot Bath, about a Musket-ſhot from the Tigris. It was throng'd with Sick people that came thither for their Recovery. We kept our ſelves upon the Watch all night; but for all we could do, the Arabs ſtole two Coverlets from a Merchant, and a Turk's Cloaths that was gone into the Bath.

The ſixteenth, after we had row'd about five hours, we came to a huge Dam; it is 200 Foot wide, and makes a fall in the River of about 20 Fathoms ſteep. The Arabians ſaid that Alexand • r the Great made it to turn the courſe of the River; others will have it, that Darius caus'd it to be made to hinder the paſſage of the Macedonians by Water. However, we were forc'd to land our ſelves and our Goods, and to lade them upon Horſes which the Arabs brought us.

The paſſing this Dam is worthy obſervation. For it is a thing of wonder to ſee the Kilet all of a ſudden fall above ſixſcore Foot, and yet to be kept by the Leather-Bottles ſtill above Water. The Water-men that guide the Boat, tye themſelves and their Oars faſt to a Pearch bent like a Semicircle, to defend themſelves from the force of the Water. And indeed this is the Dam that renders Tigris unnavigable.

The Kilet being come to the place where we expected it, we put our Goods aboard, and lay in the ſame place upon the Bank of the River. For the Arabs, if they perceive the Merchants aſleep, cut the Cords of the Kilet, and ſetting it a drift, ſwim after it, and rifle away what they pleaſe.

The ſeventeenth, after three hours rowing we met with the River Zab, that empties into the Tigris, upon C • aldea ▪ſide. Half a League above the River ſtands a fair Caſtle of Brick upon a little Hill; but no body dwelling in it, it runs to ruine. We were twelve hours that day upon the Water, and came to lye at a place which was full of Wood, where we made great Fires, and ſhot off our Muskets often in the night to ſcare the Lions.

The eighteenth we were upon the Water eighteen hours, and lay upon the Bank of the River, upon Aſſyria-ſide. That Evening the Arabs brought us Milk-Meats, and freſh Butter. They ſwim from the other ſide of the River with a Boracho under their Stomachs, and another upon their Heads, wherein they bring their Commodities; for which they will have no Money, but only Tobacco, or Bisket, or Pepper.

The nineteenth, in four hours time we met with a River call'd Altum-ſou, or The River of Gold. It flows from the Mountains of the Medes, and I travel'd by the ſide of it for threee days together, returning from Tauris to Aleppo, and paſſing the Tigris to Meſia. The Water of the River is of an excellent taſt, and it falls into Tigris upon Aſſyria-ſide. All along the Tigris, on the ſame ſide, are great ſtore of Bituminous Springs, and other Streams of hot Water that ſmell of Sulphur. All that day we ſaw none but Arabs and Curds marching along the Banks of the River, the Curds upon Meſopotamia ſide, and the Araebs upon Aſſyria ſide. They were at War, and both ſides march'd in very good order. The Young men went formoſt with Bows and Arrows, and ſome Muskets, but ſeveral Half-Pikes. Next to them their Wives, Virgins, and Children, with their Cattel, Herds, and Camels; after which march'd the Old men in the rear. As well the Curds as the Arabians ſent out Horſe-men to ſcout upon the high Grounds; for as ſoon as they find any advantage, they preſently ſwim their Horſes over the River and ſall on. Now becauſe we would not truſt thoſe ſort of People, we row'd nineteen hours to avoid 'em.

The twentieth we were eleven hours upon the Tigris, and came to lye at a Town call'd Tigris, upon Meſopotamia ſide. There belongs to the Town a Caſtle half ruin'd, and yet there are ſtill ſome handſom Chambers to be ſeen. Upon the North and Eaſt, the River ſerves for a Moat; but upon the Weſt and South it has a deep Artificial one pav'd with Free-ſtone. The Arabians ſay that formerly it was the ſtrongeſt place in all Meſopotamia, though it be commanded by two Hills not far from it. The Chriſtians dwelt half a League from the City, where the Ruines of a Church and part of a Steeple are ſtill to be ſeen, whereby it appears to have been a a conſiderable Pile of Building.

The twenty-firſt, after we had row'd three hours, we met with a Town upon Aſſyria ſide, which was call'd Am • t-el-tour, from the name of a perſon that lyes inter'd in a Monaſtery, whom the people account to be a Saint. Therefore is it a place of great Devotion among them, ſo that great numbers of Votaries go thither in private. That day we were twelve hours upon the Water, and lay upon the Banks of the River.

The twenty ſecond, having been upon the Waters two hours, we met with a great Chanel cut ou • of Tigris to water the Lands, which runs up as far as juſt overagainſt Bagdat, and there falls into the Tigris again. Coming thither, we landed upon Chaldea ſide, by reaſon that there were certain Turks with us, who would of neceſſity perform their Devotions at a place call'd Samatra. In the ſame there is a Moſquee not above half a League from the River; to which many Mahometans pay their Devoirs, eſpecially Indians and Tartars, who believe forty of their Prophets to be buried there. When they knew us to be Chriſtians, they would not permit us, no not for Money, to ſet our Feet in it. About five hundred Paces from the Moſquee ſtands a Tower very ingeniouſly built. There are two Stair-caſes without, that belong to it, made twirling like a Periwinkle-ſhell: one of which Stair-caſes was built deeper into the Tower than the other. I would have taken better notice of it, could I have been permitted to have come nearer it. Only I obſerv'd that it was made of Brick, and that it ſeems to be very ancient. Half a League from thence appear three great Portals, that look as if they had been the Gates of ſome great Palace. And indeed it is not improbable but that there was ſome great City thereabouts; for, three Leagues all along the River there is nothing to be ſeen but Ruines. We were twelve hours that day upon the Water, and lay upon the Banks of Tigris, according to cuſtom.

The twenty-third, we were twenty hours upon the Water, and all the day long we ſaw nothing upon either ſide of the River but pitiful Hutts made of the Branches of Palm-trees, where live certain poor people that turn the Wheels, by means whereof they water the neighbouring Grounds. We alſo met that day with a River call'd Odoine, that falls into Tigris upon the ſide of the ancient Chaldea.

The twenty-fourth, we were twenty two hours upon the Water together, never ſtirring off from the Kilet. The reaſon is, becauſe the Merchants having tak'n out oſ the Kilet, all their Money and the beſt part of their Merchandizes, give them to the Country people▪ who carry them very faithfully to Bagdat, whither they to ſell their own Commodities: which the Merchants do, to avoid the payment of Five in the Hundred, in the City. I truſted them alſo with ſeveral things of which they gave me a very good account, as they did to others, being contended with a ſmall matter for their pains.

The twenty-fifth, about four of the Clock in the Morning we arriv'd at Bagdat, which is as uſually call'd Babylon. They open the Gates by ſix, and then the Cuſtomers come to take an account of the Merchandize, and to ſearch the Merchants themſelves. If they find nothing about 'em, they let the Merchants go: but if they have any thing about 'em which ought to pay, they carry the perſons to the Cuſtom-Houſe, where they write down the quantity of the Goods, and let them go. All the Merchandize upon the Kilet is carry'd thither alſo, which the Merchant fetches away again in two or three days, paying the Cuſtom: All which is done in very great order, without any noiſe or diſturbance in the leaſt.

Though Bagdat uſually bear the name of Babylon, yet it is at a great diſtance from the ancient Babylon, whereof in due place. But now for Bagdat, as it ſtands at this day.

Bagdat is a City ſeated upon the River of Tigris, on the Coaſt of Perſia, and ſeparated from Meſopotamia by the ſame River. It lyes in 33 Deg. 15 Min. of Elevation. The Chronicles of the Arabians report that it was built by one of their Caliſfs nam'd Almanſour, in the year of the Hegyra of Mahomet 145, and of Chriſtianity 762, or thereabouts. They call it Dar-al-ſani, that is, the Houſe of Peace. Some ſay it deriv'd its name from a Hermitage that ſtood in a Meadow where the City now ſtands, whence it was call'd Bagdat, or, a Garden bequeath'd. About forty years ago digging up the Foundations of an Inn, the Work-men found a Body entire, habited like a Biſhop, with a Cenſor and Incenſe by him. And in the ſame place ſeveral Cells of Religious Houſes ſhew'd themſelves: which makes it very probable, that where Bagdat is built there was anciently a great Monaſtery, with ſeveral Houſes where the Chriſtians inhabited. The City is about fifteen hundred Paces long, and ſev'n or eight hundred broad, and cannot poſſibly be above three Miles in circuit. The Walls are of Brick, and terraſs'd in ſome places, with large Towers like Baſtions. Upon all theſe Towers there are mounted about ſixty pieces of Cannon, the biggeſt whereof carries not above a five or ſix Pound Ball. The Moats are wide, and about five or ſix Fathom deep. There are not above four Gates; three upon the Land-ſide, and one upon the River, which you muſt croſs, over a Bridge of thirty-three Boats, diſtant one from the other about the bredth of one Boat. The Caſtle is in the City, near to one of the Gates call'd El-Maazan, upon the North ſide. It is partly built upon the River, encompaſs'd only with a ſingle Wall, terraſs'd in ſome places; and adorn'd with little Towers, upon which are planted about a hundred and fifty Cannon, but without Carriages. The Moat is narrow, and not above two or three Fathom deep, neither is there any Draw-Bridge before the Gate. The Garriſon conſiſts of three hundred Janiſaries, commanded by an Aga. The City is govern'd by a Baſha, who is generally a Vizier. His Houſe is upon the ſide of the River, making a fair ſhew; and he has always ready at command ſix or ſeven hundred Horſe. There is alſo an Aga that commands three or four hundred Spahi's. They have beſides another fort of Cavalry which is call'd Ginguliler, that is to ſay, Men of Courage, commanded by two Aga's; and uſually there are about three thouſand in the City and the Towns adjoyning. The Keys of the Gates of the City and the Bridge-Gate are in the cuſtody of another Aga, who has under him two hundred Janiſaries. There are alſo ſix hundred Foot men, who have their particular Aga, and about ſixty Cannoneers, who were at that time commanded by an expert Artiſt that went by the name of Signor Michaël, who paſs'd for a Turk, though he were born in Candy. He put himſelf into the Grand Signor's ſervice, when he went to beſiege Bagdat, in the year 1638. Though the Turk had the good fortune to carry the City in a ſmall time; not ſo much by virtue of the Breach which Signor Michaël had made in the Wall, as the Sedition and Revolt that happen'd at the ſame inſtant, the Story whereof was thus in ſhort.

The Kan that ſuſtain'd the brunt of the Siege at firſt, was originally an Armenian, and his name was Sefi-couli▪Kan. He had commanded the City a long time, and had defended it twice from the Army of the Turks, who were not able to take it before. But the King of Perſia having ſent one of his Favourites to command in his room, who had enter'd upon his Command before the Cannon had made the Breach, the old Kan finding himſelf diſplac'd by the Commiſſion of the new Governour, rather choſe to dye, than ſurvive the Affront which was put upon him. To which purpoſe he ſent for his Servants, the Officers of the Army, his Wife and Son▪ and taking three Cups of Poyſon in his Hand, he commanded his Wife, if ever ſhe lov'd him, now to ſhew the marks of her affection by generouſly dying with him. He gave the ſame exhortation to his Son; and ſo all three together drank up the Poyſon, which procur'd their ſpeedy death. The Souldiers, who had a great love for their Governour, having beheld ſo diſmal a Spe •• acle, and knowing the Grand Signor was preparing for a general Aſſault, would not obey their new Kan, but began to act like Revolters; and to that purpoſe they agreed to deliver up the City, upon condition they might march away with their Arms and Baggage: but the Turks did not keep their words. For ſo ſoon as the Turks were got into the City, the Baſha's told the Grand Signor, that to weak'n the force of the Perſian, it was neceſſary for him to put to the Sword all the Souldiers that were in the City: and thereupon there were above twenty thouſand maſſacr'd in cold Blood. The Turks had ſeiz'd upon the Capuchins Manſion, but Signor Micha • l chief of the Canonneers, got it to be reſtor'd them again.

As to the Civil Government of Bagdat, there is none but a Cady, who does all, acting even the Muſti, with a Skiekelaſton or Tefterdar, who receives the Revenues of the Grand Signor. There are in it five Moſquees, of which two are indifferently well built, and adorn'd with Duomo's cover'd with varniſh'd Tiles of different colours. There are alſo ten Inns, all ill built, except two, which are reaſonably convenient. In general, the City is ill built; there being nothing of beauty in it but the Bazars, which are all arch'd; elſe the Merchants would not be able to endure the heats. They muſt alſo be water'd three or four times a day; for which office ſeveral poor people are hir'd upon the publick charge. The City is full of Trade, but not ſo full as it was, when in the hands of the King of Perſia: for when the Turk took it, he kill'd moſt of the richeſt Merchants. However there is a great confluence thither from all Parts; whither for Trade, or for Devotions ſake, I cannot tell: becauſe they that follow the Sect of Haly, do believe that Haly liv'd at Bagdat. Beſides, all they that are deſirous to go to Mecca by Land, muſt paſs through Bagdat, where every Pilgrim is forc'd to pay four Piaſters to the Baſha. You muſt take notice that there are in Bagdat two ſorts of Mahometans, the firſt are call'd Rafedi's, or Hereticks; the ſecond, Obſervers of the Law, in all things like thoſe at Conſtantinople. The Rafedi's will by no means eat or drink with a Chriſtian, and very hardly with the reſt of the Mahometans: o • if they do happen to drink out of the ſame Cup, or to touch them, they preſently waſh themſelves, as believing themſelves unclean. The others are not ſo ſcrupulous, but eat and drink and converſe with all the World. In the year 1639, after the Grand Signor had tak'n Bagdat, a Rafedi who was a Carrier of Water not only refus'd to give a Jew to drink, who deſir'd it of him in the Market-place, but abus'd him alſo in words. Thereupon the Jew complain'd to the Cady, who immediately ſent for him, and caus'd his Boracho and his Cup to be brought along with him; when he came before him, he ask'd for his Cup, and gave the Jew to drink, and then made the Porter drink alſo out of the ſame Cup: After that, he order'd the Rafedi to be Baſtinado'd, and this Leſſon to be taught him while he was chaſtiſing, That we are God's Creatures, as well Mahometans, as Chriſtians and Jews. This has made them leſs zealous in their Superſtition, though they are the chiefeſt part of the Inhabitants of the City.

As to their Funerals, I have particularly obſerv'd, that when the Husband dyes, the Wife pulls of all her Head▪gear, and lets her Hair fall about her Ears; then ſhe all beſmears her Face with the Soot of a Kettle, and having ſo done, frisks and leaps about after ſuch a ridiculous manner, as from others would rather produce laughter than tea • s. All the kindred, friends and neighbours meet at the Houſe of the deceas'd, and ſtay for the Celebration of the Funeral. At what time the Women ſtrive to out-vie one another in a thouſand Apiſh tricks, clapping their Cheeks, yelling like mad people; and then of a ſudden ſetting themſelves to dance to the ſound of two Drums, like thoſe which the Tabor-and-Pipe▪men carry, upon which the Women beat for a quarter of an hour. Among them there is one more accuſtom'd to this fool'ry than the reſt, that fills your Ears with mournful Dinns; to which other Women make anſwer, by redoubling their Cries, which may be heard at a great diſtance. It would then be a vain thing to ſeek to comfort the Children of the deceas'd; for they ſeem to be ſo much beſide themſelves, that they are not in a condition to hear any thing. And they are oblig'd to carry themſelves in that manner, unleſs they intend to run the reproach of not having any kindneſs for their Parents. When the Corps is carry'd to the Grave, abundance of poor people go before with Banners, and Creſcents at the ends of Sticks, ſinging moſt diſmal Dirges all the way. The Women are not to be at the Interment, who are not to go abroad but only upon Thurſdays, when they go to the Sepulchers to Pray for the Dead. And becauſe that by their Law the Husband is▪ oblig'd to lye with his lawful Wife upon Thurſday-night or Fryday-night, upon Wedneſday-morning the Women go to the Baths, where they perfume their Heads and Bodies with a ſweet Water. They may go abroad ſometimes at the other ſeaſons, when their Husbands give them leave to viſit their Kindred; but then they are to be wrapt up from Head to Foot, that it is impoſſible for their Husbands themſelves to know them if they meet 'em i'the Streets. By the way take notice, that the Perſian Women, unleſs they be ſuch as are very poor, would rather ſtay within all the days of their Lives, than go abroad without a Horſe. And it is a certain ſign to know a Curtiſan from an honeſt Woman; for that the Curtiſans put their Feet in the Stirup, and the honeſt Women only in the Stirup-leathers. The Women of Bagdat are very richly habited, after their faſhions; but they are not contented to wear their Jewels about their Necks and Wriſts, for they hang them like Bracelets about their Faces, and will bore holes in their Ears to put in a Ring. The Arabian Women only bore the ſeparation between the two Noſtrils, where they wear hollow Rings, as well to ſpare coſt as for lightneſs; for ſome are ſo big, that you may almoſt thruſt your Fiſt through them. Beyond all this, the more to beautifie themſelves, they make a round Ring about their Eyes with a certain ſort of Blacking: And as well Men as Women, in the Deſert, put the ſame near their Eyes, to preſerve them, as they ſay, from the heat of the Sun.

Of Chriſtians there are three ſorts: Neſtorians, who have a Church; Armenians and Jacobites, who have none, but go the Capuchins, who adminiſter the Sacraments to them. The Chriſtians go in Devotion to a Chappel, about a ſhort quarter of a League from the City, dedicated to a Saint whom they call Keder-Elias, paying a ſmall Fee, for admiſſion, to the Turks, who keep the Keys. Two days journey from the City ſtands another ruin'd Church in a pitiful Village, where they ſay, that St. Simon and St. Jude were both Martyr'd and Buried. If a Chriſtian dyes, all the reſt come to his Burial, and returning home, find a Supper prepar'd to welcome them; the next day they return to the Grave, and pray for the deceas'd; and the third day there is a Dinner for all comers and goers. Sometimes there will be a hundred and fifty perſons at a Burial. They repeat the ſame Ceremonies for the ſeventh, fifteenth, thirtieth and fortieth days afterwards; having a great veneration for the Dead, for whom they pray too often. This cuſtom of Feaſting is very inconvenient for the Poor; for they being deſirous to imitate the Rich, run themſelves ſometimes ſo far in Debt, that they are forc'd to ſell their Children to the Turks to diſcharge themſelves.

There are ſeveral Jews alſo in Bagdat, but more that come every year in Devotion to viſit the Sepulcher of the Prophet Ezekiel, which is a day and a halfs journey from the City. In ſhort, ſince the taking of Bagdat by Sultan Amurat, the number of Inhabitants cannot be leſs then fifteen thouſand Souls; which ſhews that the City is not peopl'd according to its bigneſs.

About a day and a halfs journey from the Point of Meſopotamia, at diſtance almoſt equal between Tigris and Euphrates, there appears a vaſt Heap of Earth, which the people call to this day Nemrod. It ſtands in the midſt of a wide Plain, and may be diſcover'd a great way off. The vulgar ſort believe it to be the Remains of the Tower of Babel; but there is more probability of the Arabians Opinion, who call it Agartouf, and believe it to have been built by an Arabian Prince, who always kept a Beacon at the top to aſſemble his Subjects together in time of War. This Heap of Earth was about three hundred Paces in circuit; but it is not eaſie to gueſs at the ancient height, the reſt being fall'n to ruine, but ▪only eighteen or twenty Fathom. It is built of Brick dry'd in the Sun, every Brick being ten Inches ſquare, and three thick. The Building is thus rais'd. Upon every row of Canes or Reeds bruis'd to pieces and mix'd with Wheat-ſtraw, and ſpread an Inch and a half thick, lye ſeven orders of theſe Bricks with a little Straw between each; then another Bed of Reeds, and ſix rows of Bricks; then a third with five rows, decreaſing in that manner 'till you come to the top. The form of it ſeems to have been rather ſquare than round; and in the higheſt part of that which remains there appears a Hole like a Window; if it were not rather an Out-let for Water, or a Hole for the Scaffolding. In ſhort, according to the Deſcription of Moſes there

Perſian Trauels Page 87

THE PLATFORME OF BAGDAT

The Suburbs in Mesopotamia

is no likelihood that this ſhould be the Remains of the ancient Tower of Babel.

The Plane of the City of Bagdat, which is to be compaſs'd, as well by Land as by Water, in two Hours. A. The Ground-Plot. B. The Fortreſs. C. The Gate call'd Maazan-capi. D. The New Bulwark▪ E. The Port where the Grand Signor erected his firſt Batt'ry, Anno 1638. F. The Old Bulwark. G. The Gate in the Wall. H. The Old Bulwark. I. The Place where Amurat rais'd his ſecond Batt'ry, when he made the Breach, and took the City. K. The Gate in the Wall. L. The Old Bulwark. M. The The Old Bulwark. N. Cara-capi, or the Black Gate. O. The Old Bulwark. P. Sou-capi, or the Water-Gate.

CHAP. VIII. A Continuation of the Road from Bagdat to Balſara; and of the Religion of the Chriſtians of St. John.

THE fifteenth of March we hir'd a Bark from Bagdat to Balſara. And we obſerv'd, that a little beyond Bagdat the River Tigris divides it ſelf into two Arms; the one which runs through the ancient Chaldea, the other keeps its courſe towards the Point of Meſopotamia; theſe two Arms making a large Iſland, croſs'd by ſeveral ſmall Chanels.

When we came to the place where Tigris divides it ſelf, we beheld as it were the compaſs of a City that might have formerly been a large League in circuit. There are ſome of the Walls yet ſtanding, upon which ſix Coaches may go a▪breſt. They are made of burnt Brick, every Brick being ten Foot ſquare, and three thick. The Chronicles of the Country ſay, that theſe were the Ruines of the ancient Babylon.

We follow'd that Arm of Tigris that runs along the Coaſt of Chaldea; for fear of falling into the hands of the Arabs, who were then at War with the Baſha of Babylon, denying to pay the ordinary Tribute to the Grand Signor. We were ten days upon the Water in our paſſage from Bagdat to Balſara, and lay every night upon the Water, dreſſing our Victuals in the Bark. For when we came to any Villages, we ſent our Servants a ſhoar to buy Proviſions, which we had very cheap. Now the Towns we met with upon the Shoar were theſe▪ Amurat, where there ſtood a Fort of Brick bak'd in the Sun; Manſoury, a great Town▪ Magar, Gazer, and Gorno. At this laſt place Euphrates and Tigris meet together: where are alſo three Caſtles to be ſeen; one upon the Point where the two Rivers meet, which is the ſtrongeſt, and were the Son of the Prince of Balſara then commanded; the ſecond upon Chaldea ſide; and the third upon Arabia ſide. Though the Cuſtoms be there exactly demanded, and paid, yet they never ſearch any perſon. The Tides come up to that place: ſo that having but fifteen Leagues to Balſara, we got thither in ſev'n hours, having both Wind and Tide.

All the Country between Bagdat and Balſara is inter-cut and parted by Dikes, like the Low Countries; the two Cities lying a hundred and ſixty Leagues one from the other. It is one of the beſt countries in the poſſeſſion of the Grand Signor, being ſtor'd with large Meadows and excellent Paſturage, where are bred infinite numbers of Beaſts, eſpecially Mares and Bufalo's. The Female Bufalo's go twelve Months, and yield ſo much milk, that there are ſome that will give two and twenty Pints. And there is ſo large a quantity of Butter made, that in ſome Villages upon the Tigris, we ſaw ſometimes five and twenty, ſometimes twenty Barks lad'n with Butter, which the people ſell all along the Gulf of Perſia, as well upon Arabia, as Perſia ſide.

Half the way betwixt Bagdat and Balſara, we perceiv'd ſeveral Pavilions ſet up in the Meadows along by the ſide of the River. Upon enquiry we heard that the Tefierdar was come from Conſtantinople to gather the Grand Signor's duty's. For from Bagdat to Gorno, for all the Bufalo's as well Male as Female, there is to be paid a Piaſter and a quarter for every head once a year; which is worth yearly to the Grand Signor a hundred and fourſcore thouſand Piaſters. Every Mare alſo pays two Piaſters, every Sheep ten Sous; which if the Country people were not very cunning would be worth fifty thouſand Piaſters more than it is.

After this we came to Gorno, a Fortreſs upon the point where the two Rivers meet, beſides two other ſmall Caſtles upon each ſide, ſo that there is no paſſing without leave. Upon the Fort of Gorno, which was well furniſh'd with Cannon, we ſaw the Prince of Balſara's Son, who was Governour of the Fort. And here it is that the Account of the Cuſtoms is taken. But though they are very exact in ſearching the Barks, they are very civil, for they ſearch no body. However leſt any Goods ſhould be hid between the Planks of the Ships, over which they generally throw Fagots and Canes, the Cuſtomers bring a great Piercer, with which they bore the ſides of the Bark quite through for the diſcovery of conceal'd Goods. The Goods are Regiſter'd at Gorno, but the Cuſtoms are always paid at Balſara, according to the accompt giv'n from the Fort.

The ſame day entring into the Chanel that is cut out of Euphrates to Balſara, we met the chief of the Holland Factory taking his pleaſure in a Boat cover'd with Scarlet, who took me with him to Balſara.

Balſara ſtands upon the ſide of Arabia deſerta, two Leagues from the Ruines of a City, which was formerly call'd Beredon, and anciently ſtood in the Deſert, to which the Water was formerly conveigh'd out of Euphrates in a Brick Chanel ſtill to be ſeen.

By the Ruines it appears to have been a great City, from whence the Arabians fetch away the Bricks and ſell them at Balſara. The City of Balſara is half a League from Euphrates, which the Arabians in their Language call Shetel-arch, or the River of Arabia. The Inhabitants of the City have made a Chanel to it about half a League long, which bears Veſſels of 150 Tuns; at the end whereof ſtands a Fort, ſo that no Veſſel can get into the Fort without leave. The Sea is above fifteen Leagues upward beyond Gorno. The Country is ſo low, that were it not for a Dam that runs along the Sea-ſhoar, it would often be in danger of being drown'd. The Dam is above a League in length, and built all of Free-ſtone ſo ſtrong, that the fury of the waves can do no injury, though it lie open to a Boyſtrous Sea.

It is not above a hundred years ſince Balſara belong'd to the Arabians of the Deſert, and had no commerce with the Nations of Europe. For thoſe people were contented to eat their own Dates, having ſo great a quantity, that they only live upon them. 'Tis the ſame thing all along the Gulf on each ſide; for from Balſara to the River Indus for above ſix hundred Leagues together, and all along the Coaſt of Arabia to Maſcaté, the poor ſort of people know not what it is to eat Rice, but live upon Dates and Salt-fiſh dry'd in the wind. The Cows eat no Graſs, and though they go abroad in the fields, they find little or nothing among the buſhes which is proper for them to eat. But every Morning before they drive them to the Field▪ and when they return home, they give them heads of fiſh and Date-nuts boil'd together.

The Turks having had War with the Arabians took Balſara; and yet becauſe the Arabians always hover'd about the Town, and made booty of all they could lay their hands on, they were forc'd to come to an agreement with them, that the Arabs ſhould quietly enjoy all the Deſert, 'till within a League of the City; and that the Turks ſhould remain peaceable Maſters of the City, where they have a Baſha for Governour. But this Treaty endur'd not long; for in the middle of the City there is a Cittadel, call'd Auſhel Baſha, or the Baſha's Court, which the Turks built; ſo that the Garriſon being Turks and the Inhabitants Arabians who could not endure to be curb'd, they oft-times quarrell'd with the Turks and came to blows. Thereupon the Arabians of the Deſert came to the relief of the Citizens and beſieg'd the Baſha in the Fortreſs. At length becauſe there could be no ſuch agreement made, but that one party or other took an occaſion preſently to break it, there was one Baſha whoſe Name was Aiud, who after many conteſts and revolts which had almoſt tyr'd him▪ reſolv'd to rid himſelf of the trouble, and ſold his Government for forty thouſand Piaſters to a rich Lord in the Country, who preſently rais'd a ſufficient number of Souldiers to keep the people in awe. This great man took upon him the name of Efraſias Baſha, being the Grandfather of Huſſen Baſha, who was Governour at the time when I paſs'd through before. This Efraſias threw off the Turkiſh yoak, and took upon him the title of Prince of Balſara. As for the Baſha that ſold his Government, he no ſooner arriv'd at Conſtantinople, but he was ſtrangl'd. But after Amurath had taken Bagdat, the Prince of Balſara was glad to feed him continually with Preſents that chiefly conſiſted in Horſes, which are very beautiful in that Country. The Great Sha-Abas having taken Ormus, ſent a powerful Army under the Command of Inian-Kouli-Kan Governour of Shiras, to take in Balſara. Whereupon the Prince finding himſelf too weak to reſiſt ſo great a Pow'r, made an agreement with the Deſert Arabians to break down the Dam that ſtops the Sea. Which being perform'd, in came the Sea tumbling fifteen Leagues to Balſara, and four Leagues beyond it, which conſtrain'd the Perſians, ſurrounded with water, and hearing at the ſame time of the death of Sha-Abas, to raiſe their Siege. Since that inundation, ſeveral Lands and Gardens have been utterly barren, or have born very little, by reaſon of the Salt which the Sea has left behind.

The Prince of Balſara has enter'd into Leagues with ſeveral ſtrange Nations, ſo that whenceſoever you come, you may be welcome. There is ſo much liberty and ſo good order in the City, that you may walk all night long in the Streets without moleſtation. The Hollanders bring Spices thither every year. The Engliſh carry Peper and ſome few Cloves; but the Portugals have no Trade at all thither. The Indians bring Calicuts, Indigo, and all ſorts of Merchandizes. In ſhor • there are Merchants of all Country's, from Conſtantinople, Smyrna, Aleppo, Damaſcus, Cairo, and other parts of Turkie, to buy ſuch Merchandizes as come from the Indies, with which they lade the young Camels which they buy in that place; for thither the Arabians bring them to put them to ſale. They that come from Diarbequir, Mouſſul, Bagdat, Meſopotamia, and Aſſyria, ſend their Merchandizes up the Tigris by Water, but with great trouble and expence. In regard the Boats are to be tow'd by men, that cannot go above two Leagues and a half in a day, and againſt the Wind they cannot ſtir, which makes them oft-times between Balſara and Bagdat to be above ſixty days, nay there have been ſome that have been three months upon the Water.

The Cuſtoms of Balſara amount to five in the hundred, but generally you have ſome favour ſhew'd you, either by the Cuſtomer or the Prince himſelf, that the Merchant does not really pay above four in the hundred. The Prince of Balſara is ſo good a Husband, that he lays up three millions of Livers in a year. His chiefeſt Revenue is in four things, Money, Horſes, Camels, and Date-trees; but in the laſt conſiſts his chiefeſt wealth. For all the Country from the meeting of the two Rivers to the Sea, for the ſpace of thirty Leagues together, is all cover'd with theſe Trees▪ nor does any one dare to touch a Date, 'till he has paid for every Tree three fourths of a Larin, or nine Sous French. The profit which the Prince makes upon money, proceeds from this, that the Marchants that come from abroad are oblig'd to carry their Reals to his Mint, where they are Coyn'd and converted into Larins, which is worth to him eight in the hundred. As for his Horſes▪ there is no place in the world, where there are more fit for travel, or handſomer ſhap'd; for there are ſome that will travel thirty hours together and never draw bit, eſpecially the Mares. But to return to the Palm-Trees it is worth obſervation, that there is more Art to bring up thoſe Trees than any other. The Natives dig a hole in the ground▪ wherein they heap a great quantity of Date-nuts in a Pyramidical form, the top whereof ends in one ſingle Nut, which being cover'd with Earth produces the Palm-tree. Moſt of the people of the Country do ſay, that in regard there is among the Palm-trees the diſtinction of Male and Female, that therefore they muſt be planted one by another, for that otherwiſe the Female Tree will bear no Fruit. But others affirm that nicety to be unneceſſary; and that it ſuffices, when the Male is in Bloſſom to take a Flower from the Male, and put it into the Heart of the Female a little above the Stem; for unleſs they ſhould do ſo, all the Fruit would fall off before it came to maturity.

There is at Balſara a Cady that adminiſters Juſtice, and who is eſtabliſh'd by the authority of the Prince that commands there. In the City are alſo three ſorts of Chriſtians, Jacobites, Neſtorians, and Chriſtians of St. John. There is alſo a Houſe of Italian Carmelites; and there was a Houſe of Portugal Auſtin-Friars, but they have forſak'n the Town ever ſince their Country-men quitted the Trade.

The Chriſtians of St. John are very numerous at Balſara, and the Villages thereabouts; who anciently liv'd by the River of Jordan, where St. John Baptiz'd; and from whom they took their Name. But ſince the time that Mahomet conquer'd Paleſtine, though Mahomet ▪formerly gave them his Hand and his Letters of Priviledge that they ſhould not be moleſted, nevertheleſs they that ſucceeded the falſe Prophet reſolv'd to extirpate them all; to which purpoſe they ruin'd their Churches, burnt their Books, and exercis'd all manner of cruelties upon their perſons: which oblig'd them to retire into Meſopotamia and Chaldea, and for ſome time they were under the Patriarch of Babylon, from whom they ſeparated about a hundred and ſixty years ago. Then they remov'd into Perſia and Arabia, and the Towns round about Balſara; as Souter, Deſpoul, Rumez, Bitoum, Mono, Endecan, Calafabat, Aveza, Dega, Dorech, Maſquel, Gumar, Carianous, Balſara, Onezer, Zech, Loza. Nor do they inhabit City or Village by which there does not run a River. And many of their Biſhops have aſſur'd me, that the Chriſtians in all the foregoing places make above five and twenty thouſand Families. There are ſome among them who are Merchants; but the moſt part of them are Trades-men▪ eſpecially Goldſmiths, Joyners, and Lock-ſmiths.

Their Creed is full of fables and foul errours. The Perſians and Arabians call them Sabbi, a People that have forſak'n their own Religion, to take up a new one. In their own Language they call themſelves Mendai Jahia, or Diſciples of St. John, from whom, as they aſcertain us, they have receiv'd their Faith, their Books, and their Traditions. Every year they celebrate a Feaſt for about five days, during which time they go in Troops to their Biſhops, who Baptize them according to the Baptiſm of St. John.

They never Baptize but in Rivers, and only upon Sundays. But before they go to the River they carry the Infant to Church, where there is a Biſhop who reads certain Prayers over the Head of the Child; from thence they carry the Child to the River, with a Train of Men and Women, who together with the Biſhop go up to the knees in Water. Then the Biſhop reads again certain Prayers out of a Book which he holds in his Hand, which done he ſprinkles the Infant three times, ſaying, Beeſmebrad er-Rabi, Kaddemin, Akreri, Menbal el gennet Alli Koulli Kralek; or, In the Name of the Lord, firſt and laſt of the World and of Paradiſe, the high Creator of all things. After that, the Biſhop reads ſomething again in his Book, while the Godfather plunges the Child all over in the Water; after which they go all to the Parents Houſe to feaſt. If any tax their Baptiſm for inſufficient, in regard the Three Perſons of the Divinity are not nam'd therein, they can make no rational defence for themſelves. Nor have they any knowledge of the Myſtery of the Holy Trinity, only they ſay that Chriſt is the Spirit and Word of the Eternal Father. They are ſo blind as to believe the Angel Gabriel to be the Son of God, begotten upon Light; yet will not believe the Eternal Generation of Chriſt, as God. Yet they confeſs he became Man, to free us from the Puniſhment of Sin: and that he was conceiv'd in the womb of a Virgin without the knowledge of Man, by means of the Water of a certain Fountain which ſhe drank of. They believe he was crucifi'd by the Jews; that he roſe the third day; and that his Soul aſcending up to Heaven, his Body remain'd on Earth. But like the Mahometans they corrupt their Faith, by ſaying, that Chriſt vaniſh'd when the Jews came to take him, and that he deluded their cruelty with his Shadow.

In the Euchariſt they make uſe of Meal or Flow'r, kneaded up with Wine and Oyl: For, ſay they, the Body of Chriſt being compos'd of the two principal parts, Fleſh and Blood, the Flow'r and the Wine do moſt perfectly repreſent them; beſides, that Chriſt at his Supper made uſe of Wine only, and not of Water. They add Oyl, to ſignifie the benefit we receive by his favour of the Sacrament, and to put us in mind of our Love and Charity towards God and our Neighbour. To make this Wine, they take Grapes dry'd in the Sun, which they call in their Language Zebibes, and caſting Water upon them, let them ſteep for ſo long a time. The ſame Wine they uſe for the Conſecration of the Cup. They make uſe of Raiſins, in regard they are more eaſie to be had than Wine; the Perſians, eſpecially the Arabians, under whoſe Government they live, not permitting, nor indeed allowing them the uſe of it. Of all people that follow the Law of Mahomet, there are none ſo oppoſite to other Religions, as theſe Perſians and Arabians about Balſara. The words of their Conſecration, are no other than certain long Prayers, which they make to praiſe and thank God, at the ſame time bleſſing the Bread and Wine, never making mention of his Body and Blood; which they ſay is not at all neceſſary, becauſe God knows their intentions. After all the Ceremonies are ended, the Prieſt takes the Bread, and having eaten ſome of it, diſtributes the reſt to the People.

As to their Biſhops and Prieſts, when any one dyes, who has a Son, they chooſe him in his place; and if he have no Son, they take the next a-kin that is moſt capable and beſt inſtructed in their Religion. They that make the Election, ſay ſeveral Prayers over him that is elected. If he be a Biſhop, after he is receiv'd, and that he go about to Ordain others, he ought to faſt ſix days, during which time he continually repeats certain Prayers over him that is to be ordain'd Prieſt, who alſo for his part faſts and prays all the ſaid time. And whereas I ſay the Father ſuccedes the Son, it is to be obſerv'd, that among the Chriſtians in thoſe Parts, both Biſhops and Prieſts marry, as do the reſt of the people; only if their firſt Wife dye, they cannot marry another unleſs ſhe be a Virgin. Moreover, they that are admitted to Eccleſiaſtical Function, muſt be of the race of Biſhops or Prieſts; and their Mothers muſt have been always Virgins when they were marry'd. All their Biſhops and Prieſts wear their Hair long, and a little Croſs wrought with a Needle.

When there is any Wedding to be, the kindred and perſons invited go together with the Bridegroom, to the Houſe where the Bride lives. Thither comes the Biſhop alſo, and approaching the Bride, who is ſitting under a Canopy, he asks her if ſhe be a Virgin. If ſhe anſwer that ſhe is ſo, he makes her confirm it by an Oath. After which he returns to the Gueſts, and ſends his Wife with ſome other skilful Women to make an inſpection. If they find her to be a Virgin, the Biſhop's Wife returns and makes Oath of it; and then they all go to the River, where the Biſhop re-baptizes the Couple to be marry'd. Then they return toward the Houſe, and making a ſtop before they come quite near it, the Bridgroom takes the Bride by the Hand, and leads her ſeven times from the Company to the Houſe, the Biſhop following them every time, and reading certain Prayers. After that they go into the Houſe, and the Bride and Bridegroom place themſelves under the Canopy, where they ſet their Shoulders one againſt another, and the Biſhop reads again, cauſing them to lay their Heads together three times. Then op'ning a Book of Divination, and looking for the moſt fortunate day to conſummate the Marriage, he tells them of it. But if the Biſhop's Wife do not find the Bride to be a Virgin, the Biſhop can proceed no farther, ſo that if the young Man have ſtill a mind, he muſt go to ſome meaner Prieſt to perform the Ceremony. Which is the reaſon that the people take it for a great diſhonour to be marry'd by any other than the Biſhops; for when a Prieſt marries, 'tis an infallible ſign that the Bride was no Virgin. The Prieſts alſo, in regard they take it to be a great Sin for a Woman to marry not being a Virgin, they never marry any ſuch but by conſtraint, and to avoid enſuing inconveniencies; for ſometimes in deſpite they will turn Mahometans. The reaſon of the Inſpection is, that the Husbands may not be deceiv'd, and to keep the young Girls in awe.

As to what they believe touching the Creation of the World, they ſay, that the Angel Gabriel undertaking to create the World according to the command which God gave him, took along with him three hundred thirty-ſix thouſand Demons, and made the earth ſo fertile, that it was but to Sow in the Morning and Reap at Night. That the ſame Angel taught Adam to Plant and Sow, and all other neceſſary Sciences. Moreover that the ſame Angel made the ſeven lower Spheres, the leaſt whereof reaches to the Center of the World, in the ſame manner as the Heavens do, all contriv'd one within another. That all theſe Spheres are of different Metals, the firſt next the Center is of Iron, the ſecond of Lead, the third of Braſs, the fourth of Laten, the fifth of Silver, the ſixth of Gold, and the ſeventh of Earth. The ſeventh is that which contains all the reſt, and is the chiefeſt of all, as being the moſt fruitful and profitable to Man, and the moſt proper to preſerve Mankind, whereas the reſt ſeem rather to be fram'd for its deſtruction. They believe that over every Heaven there is Water, whence they conclude that the Sun ſwims in a Ship upon that Water, and that the Maſt of his Ship is a Croſs, and that there are a great number of Boys and Servants to guide the Ships of the Sun and Moon. Beſides, they have the Picture of a Barque, which they ſay belong'd to the Angel Bacan, whom God ſends to viſit the Sun and Moon, to ſee whether they move right or no, and keep cloſe to their duty.

In reference to the other World and Life to come, they believe there is no other World, but where Angels and Devils, the Souls of good and bad reſide. That in that World there are Cities, Houſes, and Churches, and that the Evil Spirits have alſo Churches, where they pray, ſinging and rejoycing upon Inſtruments, and Feaſting as in this World. That when any one lies at the point of death, three hundred and ſixty Demons come and carry his-Soul to a place full of Serpents, Dogs, Lyons, Tygres, and Devils; who, if it be the Soul of a wicked man, tear it in pieces; but being the Soul of a Juſt man, it creeps under the bellies of thoſe Creatures into the preſence of God, who ſits in his ſeat of Majeſty to judge the World. That there are Angels alſo that weigh the Souls of Men in a Ballance, who being thought worthy, are admitted immediately into Glory. That the Angels and Devils are Male and Female, and beget Children. That the Angel Gabriel is the Son of God engender'd upon Light, and that he has a Daughter call'd Souret who has two Sons. That the Angel Gabriel has ſeveral Legions of Demons under him who are inſtead of Souldiers, and others that are his Officers of Juſtice, whom he ſends from Town to Town, and from City to City, to puniſh the wicked.

In reference to Saints, they hold that Chriſt left twelve Apoſtles to Preach to the Nations. That the Virgin Mary is not dead, but that ſhe lives ſomewhere in the World, though there be no perſon that can tell where ſhe is. That next to her St. John is the chiefeſt Saint in Heaven, and next to them Zacharias and Elizabeth, of whom they recompt ſeveral Miracles and Apocryphal Tales. For they believe that they two begat St. John only by embracing; that when he came to be of age they Marry'd him, and that he had four Sons which he begat upon the waters of Jordan. That when St. John deſir'd a Son, he pray'd to God, who drew him one out of the water; ſo that St. John had no more to do with his Wife but only to give her the Child to bring up. That he dy'd a natural death, but that he commanded his Diſciples to Crucifie him after his death, that he might be like Chriſt. Laſtly, that he dy'd in the City of Fuſter, and that he was buri'd in a Chryſtal Tomb, brought by miracle to the City, and that this Sepulchre was in a certain Houſe near the River Jordan.

They highly honour the Croſs, and ſign themſelves with it; but they are very careful of letting the Turks obſerve them; and during their Ceremonies, they ſet a Watch at their Church doors for fear the Turks ſhould enter, and lay ſome unjuſt Fine upon them. When they have ador'd the Croſs, they take it in two pieces, which they never put together again, 'till their Service re-begins. The reaſon why they ſo adore the Croſs is drawn out of a Book which they have, Entitul'd The Divan. Where it is written that every day early in the Morning, the Angels take the Croſs and put it in the middle of the Sun, which receives his light from it, as the Moon alſo doth hers. They add, that in the ſame Book are Pictur'd two Ships, one of which is nam'd the Sun, the other the Moon; and that in every one of theſe Ships there is a Croſs full of Bells: And moreover, that if there were not a Croſs in thoſe two Ships, the Sun and Moon would be depriv'd of Light, and the Ships would ſuffer Shipwrack.

Their chief Feſtivals are three. The one in Winter, that laſts three days, in memory of our firſt Parent and the Creation of the World. The other in the Month of Auguſt, that alſo laſts three days, which is call'd the Feaſt of St. John. The third which laſts five days, in June, during which time they are all re-baptiz'd. They obſerve Sunday, doing no work upon that day. They neither Faſt nor do any penance. They have no Canonical Books, but a great number of others that treat of nothing but Witchcraft, in which they believe their Prieſts to be very crafty, and that the Devils are at their beck. They hold all Women to be unclean, and that it is not at all available for them to come to the Church.

They have one Ceremony, which they call the Ceremony of the Hen, of which they make great Accompt, which is not lawful for any to perform but a Prieſt Born of a Virgin at the time of her Marriage. When a hen is to be kill'd the Prieſt puts off his ordinary habit, and puts on a Linnen Cloth, girding his waſte with a ſecond, and throwing a third about his ſhoulders like a Stole. Then he takes the Fowl, and plunges it in the water to make it clean; after which he turns toward the Eaſt and cuts off the head, holding the Body in his hand 'till it has bled out all the blood. While the Hen bleeds, with his Eyes lifted up to Heaven, as if he were in an extaſie, he repeats in his own Language theſe words following: In the name of God, may this fleſh be profitable to all that cat of it? They obſerve the ſame ceremony when they kill Sheep. For firſt, they cleanſe the place very carefully where the Sheep is to be kill'd, waſhing it with water, and ſtrewing it with boughs, nor is the number of people ſmall that aſſiſts at this Ceremony, as if it were at ſome ſolemn Sacrifice. If you ask them why it is not lawful for the Laity to kill Fowls? They anſwer that it is no more lawful for them to kill than to conſecrate them; and that is all the reaſon which they bring. They eat of nothing dreſt by the Turks; and if a Turk ask them for drink, ſo ſoon as he has drank, they break the Cup. And to make the Turks more hateful, they Picture Mahomet like a great Gyant, ſhut up in Priſon in Hell with four more of his Parents; and they ſay, that all the Turks are carry'd into the ſame place full of wild Beaſts to be there devour'd.

They pretend all to Salvation. For, ſay they, after the Angel Gabriel had fram'd the World by the command of God, he thus diſcours'd him. Lord God, ſaid he, behold I have built the World as thou didſt command me. It has put me to a great deal of trouble, and my Brethren alſo, to raiſe ſuch high Mountains that ſeem to ſuſtain Heaven. And who indeed was able to make way for Rivers through Mountains without vaſt, labour, and to give every thing its proper place? Moreover, great God, by the aid of thy powerful Arm, we have brought the World to ſo much perfection, that men cannot think upon any thing needful for them, which is not to be found therein. But inſtead of that ſatisfaction which I ought to have for having accompliſh'd ſo great a work, I find no reaſon but to be altogether griev'd. When God demanding the cauſe, the Angel Gabriel anſwer'd: My God and Father, I will tell you what afflicts me; becauſe that after the making of the World as I have done, I foreſee that there will come into it a prodigious number of Jews, Turks, Idolaters, and other Infidels, Enemies of your Name, who will be unworthy to eat and enjoy the Fruits of our Labours. To whom God thus reply'd: Never grieve, my Son, there ſhall live in this World which thou haſt built, certain Chriſtians of St. John who ſhall be my friends, and ſhall be all ſav'd. Upon which the Angel admiring how that ſhould be! What, ſaid he, will there not be ſeveral Sinners among thoſe Chriſtians, and by conſequence will not they be your Enemies? To whom God thus concluded: That at the day of Judgment the Good ſhould Pray for the Wicked, and by that means they ſhould be all forgiv'n, and obtain Salvation.

Theſe Chriſtians have a ſtrange Antipathy againſt the Blew Colour call'd Indigo, which they will not ſo much as touch. For certain Jews dreaming that their Law ſhould be aboliſh'd by St. John, told it their Country-men. Which they underſtanding, and ſeeing that St. John prepar'd to Baptize Chriſt, in a great rage, fetch'd a vaſt quantity of Indigo, which they call Nill in their Language, and flung it into Jordan. They add alſo that thoſe Waters continu'd unclean for ſome time, and had hinder'd the Baptiſm of Chriſt, had not God ſent his Angels with a large Veſſel of water, which he caus'd them to fill out of Jordan before the Jews had defil'd it with Indigo; for which reaſon God particularly Curs'd that Colour.

CHAP. IX. A Continuation of the Road from Balſara to Ormus.

THe tenth of April we ſet out from Balſara for Bandar-Congo, for which paſſage we hir'd a Terrade or a Barque for the purpoſe; for they which are laden with Dates are generally ſo overcharg'd▪ that if a Storm riſes, they are in danger of being overſet. The River of Balſara is very dangerous, by reaſon of the Sands which alſo lie up and down the Perſian Gulf, and are very prejudicial to Navigation in that place. On both ſides the Gulf that ſeparates Perſia from Arabia the Happy, live a ſort of poor people that follow no other Trade than fiſhing; ſo poor, that when they bring fiſh to your Veſſel, they require nothing for it but Rice; and not the beſt neither, but ſuch coarſe ſtuff as we feed our Hens and Pigs withal. I gave them a Sack of thirty or fourty pounds, and bid them make merry with it, but they told me, they muſt be careful how they ſpent ſuch Rice as that, unleſs it were for their Sick, or at their Weddings; ſo that if the reſt of Arabia the Happy be like that, aſſuredly 'tis rather a moſt unfortunate Country.

There are ſeveral Iſles in the Perſian Gulf, but the chiefeſt of all is the Iſle of Baharen, where they fiſh for Pearls, of which I have ſpoken in its proper place.

Near to the place where Euphrates falls from Balſara into the Sea, there is a little Iſland, where the Barques generally come to an Anchor, in expectation of the wind. There we ſtay'd four days, whence to Bandar-Congo, it is fourteen days Sail, and we got thither the twenty-third of April. This place would be a far better habitation for the Merchants than Ormus, where it is very unwholeſom and dangerous to live. But that which hinders the Trade from Bandar-Congo is, becauſe the Road to Lar is ſo bad, by reaſon of the want of Water, and craggy narrow ways, which only Camels can endure; but from Ormus to Lar the way is tolerable. We ſtay'd at Bandar-Congo two days, where there is a Portugais Factor, who receives one half of the Cuſtoms by agreement▪ with the King of Perſia. By the way take notice, that they who will go by Water from Ormus to Balſara, muſt take the Natives for their Pilots, and be continually ſounding beſides.

The thirtieth, we hir'd a Veſſel for Bander-Abaſſi, and after three or four hours Sailing, we put into a Village upon the Sea-ſide, in the Iſland of Keckmiſhe.

Keckmiſhe is an Iſland three Leagues about, and about five or ſix from Ormus. It excedes in Fertility all the Iſlands of the Eaſt, that produce neither Wheat nor Barley; but at Keckmiſhe is a Magazine of both, without which Ormus would hardly ſubſiſt, in regard it furniſhes that City with moſt of their Proviſion for their Horſes. There is in the Iſland a Spring of good Water, for the preſervation of which, the Perſians have built a Fort, leſt the Portugals when they held Ormus, ſhould get it into their Poſſeſſion.

In 1641. and 1642. the Hollanders falling out with the King of Perſia about their Silk Trade, beſieg'd this Iſland. For the Ambaſſadors of the Duke of Holſtein coming into Perſia, the Dutch were jealous that they came to fetch away all the Silk; and thereupon enhanc'd the Market from forty-two to fifty Tomans. When the Ambaſſadors were gone, the Dutch would pay no more than forty-four, which was two Tomans more than they were us'd to do. The King netl'd that they would not ſtand to their words, forbid that they ſhould make ſale of their Goods 'till they had paid their Cuſtoms, from which 'till that time they were exempted. Thereupon the Hollanders beſieg'd the Fortreſs of Keckmiſhe, but the Heats were ſo intolerable, that they were forc'd to quit their deſign with great loſs of their Men; and at length by great Preſents to the chief Courtiers, they obtain'd to pay no more than forty-ſix Tomans.

Larec is an Iſland nearer to Ormus than Keckmiſhe, well inhabited, and ſo ſtor'd with Stags and Hinds, that in one day we kill'd five and forty.

From Keckmiſhe we Sail'd for Ormus, where we arriv'd the firſt of May. I had put my choiceſt Goods in a Cheſt directed for the Holland Commander at Ormus, by which means I got the Cuſtom free.

The Perſian Gulf is the moſt dangerous Gulf I know, by reaſon of the ſhallowneſs and ſharp Promontories that point out into the Sea; and therefore the beſt way is to take a Pilot at Ormus or Bander-Congo, and the moſt proper Pilots are the Fiſhermen, who are only skill'd in that Sea and no farther. The Soyl about the Perſian Gulf is dry Sand and without Water, ſo that it is impoſſible to Travel by Land from Ormus to Balſara. The Merchants would be glad to find a way through the Coaſt of Arabia to get to Maſcaté▪ whence there might a cut be made to Sindi, Diu, or Surat, which are the three chief Ports of India. During the difference between the King of Perſia and the Hollanders, the Emir of Vodana an Arabian Prince, offer'd to ſhew them an eaſie Road from Maſcaté to Balſara. But the Hollanders fearing to break with the King of Perſia, where they vended above fifteen or ſixteen hundred thouſand pounds of their Pepper, and paid therewith for all their Silk, did not think it worth their while t • quit Ormus to ſettle themſelves at Maſcaté.

Had it been yielded to, the way had been from Balſara to Elcatif a Sea-Town in Arabia the Happy, where there is a Fiſhery for Pearls that belongs to the Emir of Elcatif. From Elcatif to Maſcalat, another City of Arabia, and the reſidence of another Emir. From Maſcalat to Vodana, a good handſom City ſeated upon the meeting of two little Rivers that carry Barques to the Sea, and run together by the ſingle name of Moy • ſur. The Soyl about Vodana produces no Corn, and very little Rice; but it abounds in Fruits, eſpecially Prunes and Quinces, which are not ſo ſour as ours, and are eaten by the Natives as Pears. There are extraordinary good Melons and great Store of Grapes, of which the Jews, who inhabit the beſt part of the City, are permitted to make Wine. From Vodana to the Gulf, the Country of each ſide is full of Palm-Trees, the Dates being the Food of the common people, who have not Money to buy either Corn or Rice. From Vodana to Maſcaté it is but fifteen Leagues, though by the Maps, which are Erroneous, the way is deſcrib'd to be much longer.

Being at Ormus, the Emir of Vodana ſhew'd me a Pearl tranſparent and perfectly round, that weigh'd ſeventeen Abas, or fourteen Carats and ſeven Eights; for in all the Pearl Fiſheries of the Eaſt they uſe no other weights but Abas, which make ſeven Eights of a Carat. I offer'd him 300000 Piaſters, or 60000 Roupies for the ſame Pearl, but the Emir refus'd to take it, telling me that he had been offer'd more Money for it by ſeveral Princes of Aſia, who had ſent to him to buy it, but that he was reſolv'd never to part with it.

CHAP. X. Of the Authors firſt Voyage, and the adventure of four Frenchmen.

I Departed out of Paris in the year 1657, and Embark'd at Marſcilles for Ligorn.

We ſet Sail from Ligorn ſeven Veſſels together, two bound for Venice, one for Conſtantinople, one for Aleppo, and three for Smyrna, in one of which being a Dutch Veſſel I Embark'd. But before I leave Smyrna, to begin my Journey from Tauris, give me leave to relate the ſtory of four French-men, the various accidents whereof will much enlight'n the Reader into the Cuſtoms and Manners, as well of the Turks as Perſians.

While I ſtay'd the departure of the Caravan, which could not be ready in five or ſix Weeks, as alſo upon the advice of a rich Jew and a Merchant of Jewels at Conſtantinople, who had ſeveral Pearls to ſell, as well for their beauty as their bigneſs, the beſt Commodity a man can carry to the Indies, I ſent to Conſtantinople a perſon that I carry'd along with me, one that was well vers'd in that ſort of Commodity. There was a Norman Gentleman nam'd de Reville then at Smyrna, who would needs accompany my Factor, ſo that they went both together in a Veſſel that carry'd the French Ambaſſador and his Lady to Conſtantinople. This Gentleman had two or three thouſand Ducats in his Purſe, wanting neither wit nor courage, beſides a good preſence; but perhaps he was more haſty in his proceedings than the reſerv'dneſs of that Country requir'd. He had left the Service of the Muſcovites, thinking to find an employment in the Service of the Venetians at Candy▪ but failing in his expectations, he reſolv'd to travel into Perſia. While he was at Conſtantinople, the Jews, who lay hold upon all opportunities of gain, ſoon found out my Factor; and beſides the Pearls which he deſired to ſee, they ſhew'd him ſeveral other rich Stones to try whether they could draw him in; for he had refus'd the Pearls becauſe they held them at too high a Rate. The Norman Gentleman fell into their acquaintance; and picking out the richeſt, told him, that being reſolv'd for the Indies, he had a mind to lay out four thouſand Ducats in Pearls, He added alſo, that he would pay him half in Money, half in Goods, and at the ſame time ſhew'd the Jew two thouſand Ducats, which the Jew had already devour'd with his eyes. Some four days after, the Jew brought the Gentleman four fair Pearles with ſome Emraulds; and you may be ſure they eaſily agreed upon the price, in regard the Gentleman had a deſign to put a trick upon the Jew. Thereupon he ſhews his Ducats a ſecond time, which the Jew, who thought he had a Cully, preſently told out as his own. After that the Jew deſiring to ſee the Goods, which made up the other part of the payment, the Gentleman without any more ado told him, that all the Merchandize which he had to pay him, was a good ſtrong Quartan Ague which had held him a long time, and indeed ſuch a one, that he could not poſſibly meet with a better, but that he would not over-rate it, in regard he ask'd but two thouſand Ducats for it. The Jew who was rich and in great credit at Court, was ſo incens'd at his raillery, that he had like to have made a wicked ſtir about it. For as he had heard him ſay, that the Gentleman was going into the Indies and Perſia, he might have eaſily caus'd him to have been apprehended for a Spy. But in regard the Jews can do nothing in point of Trade without the aſſiſtance of the French Merchants, he adviz'd with ſome of them, who perſwaded him that it was an Act of folly, which it better became him to excuſe, and deſir'd him to take his Goods again, and put up the buſineſs; which with much ado they perſwaded him to condeſcend to▪ The Gentleman fearing leſt the Jews underhand ſhould do him a private miſchief, ſtole away with what ſpeed he could, and return'd to Smyrna.

De Reville being thus return'd to Smyrna, put himſelf into an Almadier, which is a ſmall Veſſel of War, that generally touches at Chio and Rhodes, being bound for Cyprus, from whence there is always ſome convenience or other to get to Alexandretta. From thence he went to Aleppo; and while he ſtay'd there he met with two French-men, the one whoſe name was Neret, the other Hautin, who was an Accomptant. They had four Wooden Cheſts full of falſe Stones ready ſet, by which they flatter'd themſelves to be great gainers in Perſia. They went from Marſeilles to Seyde, from Seyde to Damas, hearing that there was an opportunity to Travel to Bagdat with the Topigi-Baſhi. This Topigi-Baſhi or chief of the Engineers, was he that aſſiſted Amurath in the taking of Bagdat; in recompence whereof the Grand Signor gave him a Timar, or Lordſhip in Damas worth four thouſand Crowns a year. Now it was his cuſtom every year to viſit Bagdat, and to ſtay there during the Seaſon, that there was any probability of the King of Perſia's beſieging it; which Seaſon not laſting above three or four Months, when that was over, he return'd to Damas. He uſually had about thirty Horſe with him, with which he never made it above eighteen or twenty days, taking the ſhorteſt cut directly through the Deſert, where the Arabs are commanded to bring him Victuals upon the Road. And he is willing at any time when he has this opportunity, to conduct the Franks that deſire it that way, in regard they are never ungrateful to him for it. Theſe two Franks therefore having deſir'd that they might be taken into his Company, the Topigi-Baſhi▪ readily conſented; provided they could ſtay 'till he went, which would not be 'till two or three Months; with which anſwer they were well ſatisfi'd▪ But the two Franks had not ſtay'd at Damas above ſeven or eight days but they fell acquainted with a Spahi, a Kenegado of Marſeilles, who proffer'd to carry them through the Road of Meſopotamia, ſo that they ſhould be at Iſpahan before the Topigi-Baſhi, ſet out from Damas. Thereupon they privately departed out of Damas without acquainting the Topigi-Baſhi, who underſtanding they were gone after the courteſie he had offer'd them, was ſo enrag'd at their uncivility, that he ſent two of his Arabian Servants directly through the Wilderneſs to the Baſha of Bagdat, to give him advice of two Franks that were to paſs that way, who were moſt certainly Spies, deſcribing them withal from head to foot.

In the mean while the two Franks being arriv'd at Ourfa, the Spahi, as he had contriv'd his own deſign at Damas, goes to the Baſha of Ourfa, and informs him that he had conducted thither two Franks, who could be no other than Spies. Thereupon the Baſha ſeiz'd upon them and all their Goods, among the reſt he laid his paws upon ſeven hundred Piaſters, of which the Spahi no doubt had his ſhare. And this may ſerve for inſtruction to Travellers to have a care how and with whom they Travel in Turkie.

While the two French-men were in hold at Ourfa by one ſort of Treachery, the Norman Gentleman and his Companion arriv'd at Bagdat. But they had no ſooner ſet their feet upon the ſhore, when the Baſha verily believing them, to be the perſons, of whom the Topigi-Baſhi had giv'n him notice, caus'd them to be brought before him, and ſeiz'd upon their Goods and Letters, of which they had ſeveral for the Conſul of Aleppo, and other rich Merchants for Perſia. The Baſha ſent for the Capuchins to read thoſe Letters, but not believing them, he ſent for a Sicilian Phyſician which he had in his Service, and his Treaſurer who had been a Slave tak'n in Candy. But neither Phyſician, Treaſurer, nor Capuchins would interpret any thing in prejudice of the French-men; yet all that could not preſerve them from being ſhut up in a Stable full of dung, and from being threaten'd to be Shot out of a Cannon's mouth if they would not confeſs the truth. Thereupon the Capuchins and the Cadi beg'd him to ſuſpend his Sentence 'till the Arrival of the chief of the Cannoniers, to which he readily conſented.

When the Topigi-Baſhi came, the Baſha commanded the Priſoners to be brought before him. But when the Topigi-Baſhi deny'd them to be the perſons, the Baſha grew into ſuch a rage, that he no leſs reproach'd the Topigi-Baſhi for Treachery, than he had accus'd the others. Which ſo incens'd the Topigi-Baſhi on the other ſide, that he never left till he had obtain'd the releaſe of the two French-men; yet not ſo, but that the Baſha would have his due; ſo that Reville was forc'd to leave ſome of his Ducats behind which the Jew ſhould have had.

But now to return to Smyrna where I expected the Caravan for ſome time in order to my Journey into Perſia. Every thing being provided, we ſet forward in the Road for Tauris, which I have at large deſcrib'd, nor was there any thing worthy obſervation all the way. I Will only take notice, that when we departed from Tocat, in regard the heat was ſo extream, we left the common Road toward the North, and took the way through the Mountains, where there is always a freſh Breeze and ſtore of ſhady Lanes. In many of which high Mountains we met with Snow, and abundance of excellent Sorrel; and upon the tops of ſome of thoſe Mountains, we met with ſeveral ſorts of ſhells, as it had been upon the Sea ſhore, which is very extraordinary. From Erzerom we went to Cars; from Cars we came to Erivan. The Kan was not there then, being retir'd during the heat into the Mountains, a days Journey from the City. His Lieutenant telling me that I could not well paſs farther without paying my duty to the Kan; I follow'd his advice, and found him in his Tent in a fair dale, where there was a great quantity of Snow: and where when it began to melt, appear'd ſeveral beautiful Flowers, ſo that Summer and Winter ſeem'd to lodge both in the ſame place. The Kan entertain'd both me and all my Company moſt nobly for ten days. I drove alſo a ſmall Trade with him. For I durſt not ſhew him the rarities I had, being deſign'd for the King. For as in India, ſo in Perſia, neither will the King look upon any thing which his Subjects have ſeen before, nor will the Subjects buy any thing which the King has ſeen▪ it being an affront to preſent any thing to the King which he had formerly view'd, and the Subject buys nothing rare but what he intends to preſent.

Being paſt Erivan you may leave your Caravan when you pleaſe, by reaſon of the ſecurity of the Roads in Perſia. And indeed I intended to have viſited the Kan of Geng •• , but finding the Road ſo full of Rocks and Precipices, where a man was continually in danger of breaking his Neck, I turn'd my Horſes head and met the Caravan at Nacksivan in the Road to▪ Tauris.

From Tauris to Iſpahan I met with nothing worthy obſervation. When I came to the Court I was well receiv'd by the King, and I ſold him as many Jewels and other Goods of great value, as came to ſixty-two thouſand Crowns. But of this more in another place.

CHAP. I. Of the Authors ſixth and laſt Voyage from his ſetting out of Paris, to his Landing at Smyrna.

I Set out of Paris in the year 1663. for Lyons, with ſix ſeveral Servants of ſeveral profeſſions, which I thought moſt proper for my buſineſs. I carry'd with me the value of about four hundred thouſand Livers, part in Jewels, part in Goldſmiths work and other curioſities, which▪ I deſign'd for the King of Perſia and the Great Mogul. Being at Lyons I bought a Steel Mirrour round and hollow, about two foot and a half in Diameter, would immediately melt a Half-Crown by the heat of the Sun-beams: and if you ſet a Candle by it in the night, you might read two hundred Paces off in your Bed by the reflection.

From Lyons I rode to Marſeilles, and ſet Sail for Ligorn the tenth of January, 1664. in a ſmall Bark, but being ſcar'd by a great Veſſel that we ſaw off at Sea, we came to an Anchor in the Port of Agaïe, two Leagues from Frejus, where there ſtood a pittiful Fort with two or three Houſes. There we alſo went aſhore and ſaw a Garden, the Alleys of which were diſtinguiſh'd with rows of Citron and Orange Trees, which look'd as Green in the depth of Winter as in the midſt of Summer, with ſeveral other curioſities after the mode of Italy. We were no ſooner got aboard again, but we perceiv'd another Veſſel making into the ſame Port with full Sail. It was a Veſſel which the Maſters of the Forein Office at Toulon, had ſet out to force all Ships that were bound into Italy to pay certain Cuſtoms, which thoſe of Marſeilles would not pay when they came into the Port of Toulon. Thereupon foreſeeing that there would be miſchief done. I called for my little Cheſts that contain'd my Goods of greateſt value, carrying ſome part my ſelf, and giving the reſt to one of my moſt truſty Servants, thinking to have skipt into a Genoa Bark that lay hard by us; but inſtead of leaping a-board, I fell into the Sea: where by reaſon of the Tumult I had periſh'd without relief, had I not by good fortune laid hold of a Cable and redeem'd my ſelf. At what time one of my Servants, luckily coming to my aid, with much ado drew me up ſafe again.

Having eſcap'd this danger, I got a-ſhoar with ſuch of my Servants as I had about me, and meeting with a Bark of Frontignan that carry'd Languedock-Wine to the Coaſt of Italy, I hir'd him for Ligorn; and ſetting Sail, we firſt touch'd Villafranca, and afterwards at Monaco.

At Monaco I went a-ſhoar, and went to wait upon Madam the Princeſs, who ſhew'd me the Rarities in the Caſtle; among the reſt, ſeveral pieces of extraordinary Painting, ſeveral pieces of Clock-work and Goldſmiths-work. But among all her Curioſities ſhe ſhew'd me two pieces of Cryſtal, about the bigneſs of two Fiſts each, in one of which there was above a Glaſs full of Water, in the other a good quantity of Moſs; which were clos'd in by Nature when the Cryſtal firſt congeal'd.

Monaco is a Caſtle ſituated upon a ſteep Rock, advancing out into the Sea; which advantage, together with others which it receives from Art and Nature, renders it one of the moſt conſiderable Forts in Italy.

The next day finding the Frontignan-Veſſel to be deep-laden, and that it made little way, I took a Faluke, and kept along by the Shoar, which was moſt pleaſantly adorn'd with beautiful Villages and Houſes, as far as Savona; where I chang'd my Faluke, to compleat the reſt of the way which I had to Genoa. Half the way we did very well, but the Wind riſing, we were forc'd to put into a great Town, where we landed; and from thence, having but nine Miles, I got in good time by Horſe to Genoa. There can be no Proſpect certainly more pleaſing than that nine Miles riding. For on the one ſide you ſee nothing but a continu'd Row of magnificent Buldings and lovely Gardens; on the other a calm Shoar, upon which the Waves ſeem not to beat, but lovingly to kiſs.

Arriving at Genoa, I met with the reſt of my Servants; and at the end of two days I embarqu'd for Ligorn, where we arriv'd in four and twenty hours.

From Ligorn I went to the Court of Florence, to wait upon the Grand Duke. By whom I had the honour to be admitted into his Chamber, where I found no body attending but one Mute, who had a long time ſerv'd his Highneſs: and I obſerv'd that they underſtood one another by Signs, as perfectly as if the Mute had had his Speech and Hearing. So that when ever the Duke ſent him into his Cloſet for any Papers or other thing whatſoever, he never fail'd to bring the right.

After I had tak'n my leave of the Duke, he ſent me a noble Preſent of Wine and Fruits; but that which I valu'd more than all the reſt, was a Caſe of Medicaments and Counter-poyſons, in the compoſition whereof the Italians are very exquiſite. And yet they did me no ſervice; for when I came into the hot Countries their fermentation was ſo ſtrong, that all the Oyls and Treacles broke their ſeveral Boxes, that I could ſave nothing of that precious Preſent.

The next day, being the twenty-ſixth of March 1664, I embarqu'd with all my Servants in a Dutch Veſſel call'd The Juſtice.

The twenty-ſeventh we ſtaid in the Road, expecting the reſt of the Fleet, conſiſting of eleven Ships, two Men of War, and nine Merchant-men; four of which were bound for Smyrna, there for Ancona, and two for Venice. About ſeven that evening we ſet Sail, and all that night the Wind was favourable, but blew hard and veer'd often; which was the reaſon that two of our Fleet ſeparated from us, ſteering between the Iſle of Elbe and Corſica, while we kept on between the Iſle of Elba and Italy.

The twenty-eighth by eight in the Morning we found our ſelves between Porto Ferraro and Piombino, and it being fair Weather, we had a pleaſant proſpect of thoſe two places. From thence we ſteer'd between two Ilands, the one call'd Palmajola, the other being nameleſs. About ſix hours after we ſaw Portolongone, afterwards at a diſtance we deſcry'd Monte-Chriſto. An hour after Noon we diſcover'd Ca • tiglon-ſere, all the reſt of the day we coaſted by the Ilands of Gigio and Sanuti.

The twenty-ninth, with the ſame Wind at North-Weſt, by Morning we diſcover'd the Ilands of Pontia and Parmerola, and about Evening thoſe of Ventitione and Iſchia. Night approaching, and there being no news of the Ships we had loſt, inſtead of making the Pharo of Meſſina, it was reſolv'd that we ſhould ſteer a Courſe round about Meſſina, where we expected to overtake them. At eleven a Clock in the Evening we had but little Wind at North-North-Weſt, ſo that we made not above fourteen Leagues of way.

The thirty-firſt the ſame Wind continu'd, with a high Sea; but about nine at Night the Wind chopping about to the Weſt, we kept our former Courſe.

The firſt of April, by eight of the Clock in the Morning we diſcover'd the three Ilands that lye before Trepano, Levanzo, Maretima, and F • vagna.

The ſecond and third the Weather was ill, and the Wind unconſtant, ſo that we made but little way.

The fourth, by break of day we diſcover'd the Iland of Pantalarea.

The fifth by Morning we found our ſelves within a League and a half of the Coaſt of Sicily, juſt againſt Cape Paſſaro, at what time, the Weather being fair, we had a view of Mount Gibello, all cover'd with Snow. Doubling the Cape in the Afternoon, we diſcover'd the Coaſt of Saragoſſa. The ſixth we had little or no Wind. But the ſeventh in the Morning, the Weather being fair, we diſcover'd Cape Spartivento; and the ſame Wind continuing all that day, toward Evening we ſail'd in view of other Ilands of Calabria.

The eighth we found our ſelves near to Cape Borſano, and all the reſt of the day we ſail'd in view of Cape Stillo and Cape delle Colonne.

The ninth we made little way. But on the Tenth in the Morning the Wind coming about to the South, we found our ſelves at the entry of the Gulf of Venice, between Cape St. Mary and the Coaſt of Greece, where the Mountains were cover'd with Snow. About ten of the Clock we tack'd to our own Courſe, while the Ships that were bound for Venice and Ancona entered the Gulf.

The tenth by Morning we ſaw two little Iſlands, the one call'd Fauno, the other Merlera, and were in ſight of Corfu. About Noon, the Wind being at Eaſt, we kept out at Sea: and about Evening abundance of little Birds lighted upon our Cordage, of which we caught enow to make a luſty Fricaſie. We alſo caught four Falcons, Owls, and good ſtore of Turtles.

The eleventh and twelfth the Wind being at Eaſt, we lay hovering about the Shoar, without making any way.

The fourteenth and fifteenth having the Wind at North-Weſt, we were two days without ſeeing Land, yet we caught good ſtore of Birds.

The ſixteenth the ſame Wind continuing, we found our ſelves near the Iſland of Zant. From eight in the Morning 'till three in the Afternoon we were becalm'd; but then a good brisk Weſt Wind carry'd away all our little Birds.

The ſeventeenth and eighteenth we were becalm'd.

The nineteenth in the Morning, the Wind being at North-Weſt, we diſcover'd Cape Gullo, between Modon and Coron, in the Morea.

The twentieth, with the ſame Wind that blew freſh, we found our ſelves by Morning within two Cannon-ſhot of Cape Matapan, which is the moſt Southern Cape of all Europe. About Noon the Wind coming full Weſt, in three hours we paſs'd by the Point of the Iſland Cerigo.

The twenty-firſt in the Morning, we diſcover'd the Iſlands of Caravi and Falconera on the one ſide, and Cape Schilli on the other hand. Two hours after, having a freſh Gale at South-Weſt, about Evening we were in view of the Iſland of St. George.

The twenty-ſecond though the Wind ſlackn'd, yet we made ſome way; for in the Morning we found our ſelves between the Iſland of Zea and the Morea, near to another Cape delle Colonne: afterwards we diſcover'd the Iſland of Negropont, and doubl'd the Cape three hours after Noon, having left ſight of the Iſland of Andros by ten in the Forenoon.

The twenty-third the Wind blowing freſh all the night, by morning we found our ſelves near the Iſland of Ipſera. At noon we made the Point of the Iſland of Chio, near to the Land; and that night we came to an Anchor near the Caſtle, being becalm'd.

The twenty-fourth the Wind roſe at North-Weſt, which blew us into the Port of Smyrna.

The twenty-fifth we went a-ſhoar, having had a quiet as paſſage as ever I had in my Life for twenty days together.

CHAP. II. A Continuation of the Author's ſixth Voyage, as he travel'd from Smyrna to Iſpahan.

WE ſtaid at Smyrna from the twenty-fifth of April to the ninth of June; during which time there happ'nd ſo terrible an Earthquake; that I had like to have tumbl'd out of my Bed.

The Caravan being ready to ſet out for Tauris, I took with me three Armenian Servants, beſides thoſe that I carry'd out of France to ſerve me upon the Road.

We ſet out of Smyrna upon Monday the ninth of June at three a Clock in the afternoon. The Caravan rendevouz'd at Pont-garbaſhi, three Leagues from the City, conſiſting of ſix hundred Camels, and almoſt the ſame number of Horſe. We ſet out the next night, two hours after midnight. As for the Road I ſhall ſay nothing, only relate ſome Paſſages that fell out by the way.

Being come to Erivan, the fourteenth of September we encamp'd in a pleaſant green place between the Caſtle and the old Town; for we would not lye in the Inn, becauſe we heard that ſeveral ſick people lodg'd there. We ſtaid there two days; during which time I reſolv'd to wait upon the Kan, I found him in a Room made in one of the Arches of the Bridge which is built over the River, which I have deſcrib'd already, with ſeveral Captains and Officers about him: when he had ask'd me whence I came, and whither I was travelling, he caus'd a Glaſs of Liquor to be fill'd me. After that I preſented him with a Proſpective-Glaſs, ſix pair of ordinary Spectacles, twelve other pair of Spectacles that caſt ſeveral Reflexions, two little Piſtols, and a Steel to ſtrike Fire, made like a Piſtol. All which pleas'd him extremely well, eſpecially the Spectacles, for he was ſixty years of age. Thereupon he commanded a Lamb, Wine, Fruit, and Melons to be carry'd to my Tent, and that I ſhould want nothing. After that we ſate down to Dinner, but I obſerv'd the Kan himſelf drank no Wine, though he preſs'd me to it. The reaſon was, becauſe he was an Agi • , that is, one that had made his Pilgrimage to Mecca; for then it is not lawful to drink Wine, or any other inebriating Drink. After Dinner, finding him in a pleaſant humour, I reſolv'd to complain to him of one of the Cuſtom-Officers about an injury he had done me. For it is uſual with the Cuſtomer in this place to op'n the Cheſts of all the Merchants, both Turks and Armenians, to the end that if they have any thing of Rarity the Kan of Erivan may ſee it: for many times, he buyes what pleaſes him beſt to ſend to the King. This Officer would not excuſe me for his Cuſtom, and therefore at my very firſt arrival he would have me to op'n my Cheſts; and becauſe I did not do it according to his Orders, he ask'd me very rudely why I had not obey'd his Commands: I anſwer'd him as ſurlily, that I would op'n my Cheſt no where unleſs it were in the preſence of the King, and that as for him, I knew him not: Upon that he threaten'd me, that if he did not find my Cheſts op'n the next day, he would op'n them by force; thereupon I ſaid no more, but bid him have a care I did not make him repent of what he had done already. This was the ground of the Quarrel, and I was about to have complain'd to the Kan; but his Nephew intreated me for the love I bare him, not to ſay any thing of it, and promis'd to ſend the Cuſtomer to me to beg my Pardon, which he did, and the Cuſtomer was forc'd to crave it heartily. To avoid the ſame inconvenience for the future, I deſir'd the Kan to give me his Paſport, to the end I might paſs Cuſtomfree through the Territories of his Government, which he freely and courteouſly granted me: Come, ſaid he, and dine with me to morrow, and you ſhall have it.

The twenty-ſixth of September we departed from Erivan, and the ninth of November we came to Tauris, taking the ordinary Road.

At Erivan two of my Servants, the one a Watch-maker, the other a Gold-ſmith, dy'd; I left them ſick there, but caus'd them to be buried in the Church-yard belonging to the Armenians. One of them dy'd in fifteen days, of a Gangrene, which eat out his Mouth and Throat; being the Diſeaſe of the Country. Though had the Armenians known that one of them had been a Proteſtant, they would never have allow'd him to have been bury'd in their Church-yard.

Here obſerve the exact Juſtice, wherewith the Perſians preſerve the Goods of Strangers. For the Civil Judge hearing of the death of the Watch-maker, caus'd his Chamber to be ſeal'd up to the end the Goods might be preſerv'd for the kindred of the deceas'd, if they came to demand them. I return'd to Tauris a twelve-month after, and found the Chamber cloſe ſeal'd up.

We ſtaid twelve days at Tauris: during which time I reſolv'd to attend the Kan of Shamaqui, a frontier Town of Perſia toward the Caſpian Sea; but I found him not there, in regard it was Harveſt ſeaſon, at what time he goes to gather the King's and his own Duties.

Two days journey on this ſide Shamaqui you paſs the Aras, and for two days journey you travel through a Country all planted with white Mulberry-Trees; the Inhabitants being all Silk-Weavers. Before you come to the City, you muſt croſs over ſeveral Hills: But I think I ſhould rather have call'd it a great Town, where there was nothing remarkable but a fair Caſtle which the Kan built himſelf, I ſpeak of the time paſt: For as I return'd from this preſent Voyage of which I now write, when I came to Tauris I underſtood, that there had happen'd ſuch a terrible Earthquake in the Town as had laid all the Houſes in a heap; none eſcaping that diſmal ſubverſion, but only one Watch-maker of Geneva, and one more who was a Cameldriver. I had ſeveral times deſign'd to return into France through Muſcovy; but I durſt never adventure, being certainly inform'd that the Muſcovite never permitted any perſon to go out of Muſcovy into Perſia, nor to come out of Perſia into Muſcovy. So that it was by particular connivence that that favour was granted to the Duke of Holſtein's Ambaſſadors. This laſt time I was reſolv'd to have try'd whether I could have open'd a Paſſage from Perſia through Muſcovy into France, but the Ruine of Shamaqui deterr'd me.

We departed from Tauris the twenty-ſecond of November, from whence to Caſhan we met with nothing conſiderable, but only one of the Muſcovite Ambaſſadors upon his return into his own Country, with a ſmall Retinue of ſixty, his Companion dying at Iſpahan.

Upon Sunday the fourteenth of December taking Horſe by three of the Clock in the morning, the Ice bearing very well, we came to Iſpahan about noon: but in regard it was ſlippery before day, and very plaſhy after the Sun was up, the Journey was both tedious and troubleſom.

CHAP. III. The Road from Aleppo to Tauris through Diarbequir and Van.

THere are two Roads more remaining to be deſcrib'd; one through the North part of Turkie, the other through the South. The firſt through Diarbequir and Van, and ſo to Tauris; the ſecond through Anna, and the ſmall Deſert leading to Bagdat.

I will deſcribe the firſt of theſe Roads, and make a skip at the firſt leap to Bir, whither I have already led you in the Road from Aleppo.

From Bir or Beri, you travel all along the River Euphrates to Cachemé.

From Cachemé you come to Mileſara, where you pay the Cuſtoms of Ourfa, when you do not paſs through the City, which amounts to four Piaſters for every Horſe-load.

From Mileſara you come to the River Arzlan-chaye, or, the Lion River, by reaſon of the rapidity of the Stream which falls into Euphrates.

From Arzlan-chaye you go to Seuerak. This is a City, water'd by a River, that alſo falls into Euphrates. It is environ'd with a great Plain to the North, the Weſt, and South. The way which the Horſes, Mules, and Camels keep is cut through the Rock like a Channel, two Foot deep, where you muſt alſo pay half a Piaſter for every Horſe-load.

From Seuerak you come to Bogazi, where there are two Wells, but not a Houſe near; and where the Caravan uſually lodges.

From Bogazi you come to Deguirman-Bogazi, and from Deguirman-Bogazi to Mirzatapa, where there is only an Inn.

From Mirzatapa you come to Diarbequir, which the Turks call Car-emu.

Diarbequir is a City ſituated upon a riſing ground, on the right ſide of Tigris, which in that place forms a Half-moon; the deſcent from the Walls to the River being very ſteep. It is encompaſs'd with a double Wall; the outward Wall being ſtrengthned with ſixty-two Towers, which they report were built in Honour of the ſixty two Diſciples of JESUS CHRIST. The City has but three Gates, over one of which there is an Inſcription in Greek and Latin, that makes mention of one Conſtantine. There are in it two or three fair Piazza's, and a magnificent Moſquee, which was formerly a Chriſtian Church. It is ſurrounded with very decent Charnel-houſes, near to which the Moullah's, Dervi's, Book-ſellers and Stationers do live, together with all thoſe other people that concern the Law. About a League from the City there is a Channel cut out of Tigris, that brings the Water to the City: And in this Water are all the red Marroquins waſh'd that are made at Diarbequir, ſurpaſſing in colour all others in the Eaſt: which Manufacture employs a fourth part of the Inhabitants of the City. The Soil is very good, and yields according to expectation; there is excellent Bread and very good Wine, nor is there any better Proviſion to be had in any part of Perſia: more eſpecially, there is a ſort of Pigeons which in goodneſs excel all the ſeveral kinds that we have in Europe. The City is very well peopl'd, and it is thought there are in it above twenty thouſand Chriſtians. The two thirds are Armenians, the reſt Neſtorians, with ſome few Jacobites. There are alſo ſome few Capuchins, that have no Houſe of their own, but are forc'd to lodge in an Inn.

The Baſha of Diarbequir is one of the Viziers of the Empire. He has but an inconſiderable Infantry, which is not much requiſite in that Country; the Curds and Arabs which infeſt that Country being all Horſe-men. But he is ſtrong in Cavalry, being able to bring above twenty thouſand Horſe into the Field. A quarter of an hours riding on this ſide Diarbequir there is a great Town with a large Inn, where the Caravans that go and come from Perſia rather chooſe to lye than at Diarbequir; in regard that in the City-Inns, they pay three or four Piaſters for every Chamber, but in the Country-Inns there is nothing demanded.

At Diarbequir, you croſs the Tigris, which is always fordable unleſs when the Snow and Rains have ſwell'd it; for then you muſt go a quarter of a League higher, and croſs it over a great Stone-Bridge. Half a League on the other ſide of Tigris ſtands a Village, with an Inn, which is the Rendevous of the whole Caravan, and where they that firſt come have time enough to provide themſelves for a Journey of nine or ten days, as far as Betlis. For though you may find Towns and Inns thick enough upon the Road, yet there is no good Bread to be met with.

When the Caravan proceeds, the firſt days journey is fourteen hours on Horſeback, and you come to lye at Shaye-batman, where you muſt pay a Piaſter for every Horſe-load.

From Chaye-batman you come to Chikaran.

From Chikaran to Azou, which you leave half a League from the great Road, where the Toll-gatherers take their Toll, which is four Piaſters upon every Horſe-load.

From Azou you come to Ziarat; from Ziarat to Zerque, where you pay a Duty of two Piaſters for every Horſe-load.

From Zerche to Cochakan.

From Cochakan, to Carakan, a bad Inn; where you enter among the Mountains, that being full of Torrents reach as far as Btelis.

From Carakan to Betlis, a City belonging to a Bey or Prince of the Country, the moſt potent and moſt conſiderable of all the reſt for he neither acknowledges the Grand Signor nor the Perſian: whereas all the other Beys are Tributary either to the one or the other. And it is the Intereſt of thoſe two Potentates to correſpond with him; for it's an eaſie thing for him to ſtop up the paſſage from Aleppo to Tauris, or from Tauris to Aleppo; the Streights of the Mountains being ſo narrow, that ten Men may defend them againſt a thouſand. Coming near Betlis you muſt travel a whole day among high ſteep Mountains, that reach two miles beyond, with Torrents on each ſide; the way being cut out of the Rock on each ſide, where there is but juſt room for a Camel to paſs. The City ſtands between two high Mountains, equally diſtant one from the other, and about the height of Montmartre. It is built like a Sugar-loaf, the aſcent being ſo ſteep on every ſide, that there is no getting to the top, but by wheeling and winding about the Mountain. The top of all is a Platform, where ſtands a Caſtle well built, at the Gate whereof is a Draw-Bridge. Then you paſs through two great Courts, and then into a third, oppoſite to the Bey's Apartment. It is very troubleſom to get up to the top of the Caſtle, and a Man muſt be very well Hors'd that does it. There is no other perſon but the Bey and his Eſquire, who is permitted to ride up on Horſe back. There is one Inn within the City, and another as it were without, in which the Merchants rather chooſe to lye than in the other, by reaſon that it is ready to be overflown when the Torrents ſwell, that run throngh every Street. The Bey, beſide the ſtrength of his Paſſes, is able to bring above five and twenty thouſand Horſe into the Field; and a very conſiderable Body of Foot, compos'd of the Shepherds of the Country, who are to be ready at a Call. I went to wait upon the Bey himſelf, and made him a Preſent of two pieces of Satin, the one ſtreakt with Silver, and the other with Gold: two white Bonnets, ſuch as the Turks wear, very fine, and adorn'd with Silver at the top; together with a ſute of Handkerchiffs, ſtreak'd with Red and Silver. While I ſtaid with the Bey, who ſent for Coffee for me according to the cuſtom, a Courier came to him from the Baſha of Aleppo, to deſire him that he would deliver up into his hands a French Chirurgeon that was his Slave, having been tak'n in Candia; complaining withall, that he had run away from him with the value of three thouſand Crowns. The Bey, who underſtood what belong'd to a Sanctuary, and was reſolv'd to protect the French-man, ſchool'd the Meſſenger ſo ſeverely, that he threaten'd to put him to death if he did not get him gone preſently; charging him to tell his Maſter withal, that he would complain to the Grand Signor of his inſolence; and that if he were ſtrangl'd, he might thank himſelf. And indeed it behov'd the Great Turk to keep fair correſpondence with him; in regard that if the Perſians ſhould at any time beſiege Van, the Grand Signor muſt march through the Bey's Country to relieve it; who has Forces enow to oppoſe him if he ſhould be his Enemy.

But to travel through the Country of the Curds is very pleaſant: for if on the one ſide the ways are bad, and difficult to be travell'd, in other places you have a proſpect of ſeveral ſorts of Trees, as Oaks and Walnuts, and not a Tree which is not embrac'd with a wild Vine. Below the Mountains, in the Level, grows the beſt Wheat and Bailey in all the Country.

From Betlis, where you pay five Piaſters for every Horſe-load, to Taduan, where you pay two.

Taduan is a great Town within a Cannon-ſhot of the Lake of Van, in ſuch a port, where Nature has made a Hav'n, ſhelter'd from all the Winds; being clos'd on all ſides with high Mountains, the entry into which though it ſeem narrow, is very free. It is able to contain twenty or thirty great Barks; and when it is fair Weather, and that the Wind ſerves, the Merchants generally Ship off their Goods from thence to Van: from whence it is but four and twenty hours ſail, and a very good paſſage; whereas by Land from Taduan to Van it is eight days journey on Horſe-back. Returning back, you mayalſo take Water at Van for Taduan.

From Taduan to Karmouſhé.

From Karmouſhé to Kellat.

From Kellat to Algiaoux, a ſmall City, where you pay one Piaſter for every Load.

From Agiaoux to Spanktiere.

From Spanktiere to Soüer.

From Soüer to Argiche.

From Argiche to Quiarakierpou.

From Quiarakierpou to Perkeri.

From Perkeri to Zuarzazin.

From Zuarzazin to Souſerat.

From Souſerat to Devan, where two Piaſters are gather'd for every Horſe-load, or elſe you muſt pay at Van.

From Devan to Van, where there is a Duty of two Tomans and four Abaſſis to be paid for every Horſe-load. For though Van be in the Territories of the Grand Signor, yet the Perſian Money is better lik'd than his own Coyn.

Van is a great City upon the ſide of a wide Lake of the ſame name. There is a good Fortreſs belongs to it, that is ſeated upon the top of a high Mountain which ſtands by it ſelf. There is but one ſort of Fiſh in the Lake, a little bigger than a Pilchard, of which they take great ſtore in the Month of April. For about a League from the Lake there is a great River that is call'd Bendmahi, which deſcending from the Mountains of Armenia, empties it ſelf into the Lake. Now in March when the Snow melts and ſwells the River, vaſt numbers of theſe Fiſh come down the River into the Lake; which the Fiſher-men obſerving, ſo ſtop up the Mouth of the River that the Fiſh cannot go back; for elſe they would not ſtay above forty days; at which time they catch 'em up in wide-mouth'd Baskets at the Mouth of the River, thinking to return; it being lawful for any man to fiſh. The people drive a great Trade in theſe Fiſh, tranſporting them into Perſia and Armenia; for, the Perſians and Armenians both, drinking Wine at the end of their Feaſts, they then bring this Diſh to the Table for a Reliſhing-bit. The people of Van tell a Story, how that there was a certain rich Merchant who farm'd the whole Fiſhery, paying a good ſum of Money for it to the Baſha; who thereupon ſtrictly forbad any to fiſh but the Merchant; whereas before it was free for any man. But when the Fiſhing-ſeaſon came, and that the Merchant thought to have caught his Fiſh, he met with nothing but Serpents. So that after that time the Fiſhery was never more farm'd. And there ſems to be ſomething in it; for the Baſha's, who are a ſort of people that will loſe nothing they can get, would be certain to farm the Fiſh again and again, were there not ſome ſtrange reaſon to hinder it. There are two principal Iſlands in the Lake of Van; the one call'd Adaketons, where there ſtand two Covents of the Armenians, Sourphague and Sourp▪kara: the other Iſland is call'd Limadaſi, and the name of the Covent is Limquiliaſi, all which Armenian Monks live very auſterely.

From Van to Darcheck.

From Darcheck to Nuchar; it ſtands in the Territories of a Bey of Curdiſtan, being a paltry Village conſiſting of two or three little Houſes. Theſe Bey's are a kind of particular Lords, upon the Frontiers of both the Empires of Turkie and Perſia, who care for neither: for they lye ſo ſecure among the Mountains, that there is no aſſaulting them by force. The Curds in general are a brutiſh ſort of people; who though they ſtile themſelves Mahometans, have very few Moullah's to Inſtruct or teach them. They have a particular veneration for black Grey-hounds: ſo that if any perſon ſhould be ſeen to kill one of them, he would be knock'd o'the Head immediately. Neither does any one dare to cut an Onion with a Knife in their preſence; but it muſt be ſqueez'd between two Stones by him that intends to make uſe of it; ſo ridiculouſly ſuperſtitious they are.

The Bey to whom Nuchar belongs has his Toll-gatherers in that place, who exact ſixteen Abaſſi's for every Horſe-load, beſides a Preſent which the Caravan-Baſhi is oblig'd to preſent him, which comes ſometimes to ſeven or eight Tomans: ſometimes more: for otherwiſe the Bey would be ſure to watch the Caravan at ſome ſcurvy place, and plunder it to ſome purpoſe. As once it happen'd to a Caravan, with which my Nephew went along in the year 1672; though he had the good luck to loſe nothing more than one Camel laden with Engliſh Cloth, and another with his Proviſion. The Baſha of Van and the Kan of Tauris took the Field with an intention to remedy theſe diſorders: eſpecially the Baſha of Van, who perceiving that the Merchants would forſake that Road by reaſon of the Injuries they daily receiv'd, was reſolv'd to make the Baſha reſtore ſome part of his Goods which he had taken from the Merchants; and for the future to leave two of his Subjects in Tauris, and two in Van, that ſhould be reſponſible for what miſchief ſhould be done to the Caravan. For otherwiſe the Merchants like this way beſt, as being the neareſt from Aleppo to Tauris, and where they pay leſs Duties.

From Nuchar to Kuticlar, is a long Journey through the Mountains, by the ſide of ſeveral Torrents, which are to be croſs'd in ſeveral places. This bad way brings Fifty i'the Hundred profit to the Bey of Nuchar; for were the Caravan to travel through Plains, or a level Country, one Horſe or Camel would carry as much as two or three, and the Merchant would pay Cuſtom for no more. Here therefore the Caravan-Baſhi and the Merchants muſt underſtand one another, and agree as cunningly as they can together.

From Kuticlar to Kalvat.

From Kalvat to Kogia.

From Kogia to Darkavin.

From Darkavin to Soliman-Sera: all which four places are very convenient Inns.

From Soliman-Sera to Kours: in that City reſides a Bey, who is tributary to the King of Perſia. He lives in an ancient Caſtle about half a League-off, where the Caravan pays nine Abaſſi's for every Horſe-load, beſides a Preſent. But that Preſent conſiſts only in Sugar-loaves, Boxes of Treacle, or Marmaled; for he ſtands ſo much upon his Honour, that he ſcorns to take Money. The Wine of Kours is ſweet and tart.

From Kours to Devogli.

From Devogli to Checheme. About half way between theſe two places you croſs a Plain, which upon the South extends it ſelf a League to the Mountains, but upon the North-ſide enlarges it ſelf out of ſight. Upon the High-way, on the left hand ſtands a Rock three hundred Paces in compaſs, and about fourſcore Foot high; round about it were to be ſeen ſeveral Dens, which moſt certainly had been the Habitations of thoſe that fed their Cattel thereabouts. Under the Rock, which is hollow, appears a Fountain of clear cold Water, wherein there was great ſtore of Fiſh; thouſands of which would come up to the top of the Water, when a man threw any Bread into it. The Fiſh had a great Head, and a large Muſtache. I ſhot a Carbine into the River charg'd with Hail-ſhot, upon which they all diſappear'd, but preſently five or ſix return'd wounded to the top of the Water, which we eaſily took. The Armenians laught at me for ſhooting, believing it had been impoſſible to catch them in that manner; but they admir'd when they beheld them again turning up their bellies at the top of the Water. The Turks and ſome of the Armenians would not eat of them, believing them to be defil'd: but the Armenians that had been in Europe laugh'd at their Superſtition, and fell to, when they were dreſt.

From Checheme to Davaſhiler.

From Davaſhiler to Marand; a City where you muſt pay ſixteen Abaſſi's for a Camel's-load, and eight for a Horſes.

From Merand to Sefian.

From Sefian to Tauris. Theſe are the two biggeſt days journies throughout the Road.

Returning out of Perſia this way, we could not get Bread for Money, ſo that we were forc'd to give the Women ſome Trifles which they lov'd better. Through the People are Mahometans, yet they will not ſpare to drink luſtily.

CHAP. IV. Another Road from Aleppo to Tauris, through Geziré and other places.

FRom Aleppo to Bir or Beri, where you muſt croſs Euphrates, days 4 From Bir to Ourfa, days 2 From Ourfa to Diarbequir, days 6 From Diarbequir to Geziré, days 4 Geziré is a little City of Meſopotamia, built upon an Iſland in the River Tigris; which is there to be croſs'd over a fair Bridge of Boats. Here the Merchants meet to buy Gall-nuts and Tobacco. The City is under the Juriſdiction of a Bey.   Having paſt the Tigris, all the Country between that and Tauris is almoſt equally divided between Hills and Plains; the Hills are cover'd with Oaks that bear Galls, and ſome Acorns withal. The Plains are planted with Tobacco, which is tranſported into Turkie, for which they have a very great Trade. One would think the Country were poor, ſeeing nothing but Galls and Tobacco; but there is no Country in the World where there is more Gold or Silver laid out, and where they are more nice in taking Money that is in the leaſt defective either in weight or goodneſs of Metal. For Galls being a general Commodity for Dying, and no where to be found ſo good as there, bring a vaſt Trade to the Country; wherein there are no Villages, yet it is over-ſpread with Houſes a Muſquet-ſhot one from another; and every Inhabitant has his quarter of his Vineyard by himſelf, where they dry their Grapes: for they make no Wine.   From Geziré to Amadié, days 2 Amadié is a good City, to which the Natives of a great part of Aſſyria bring their Tobacco, and Gall-nuts. It is ſeated upon a high Mountain, to the top whereof you cannot get in leſs than an hour. Towards the middle of the Rock three or four large Springs fall down from the Cliffs, where the Inhabitants are forc'd to water their Cattel and fill their Borachio's every morning, there being no Water in the City. It is of an indifferent bigneſs, and in the middle is a large Piazza, where all ſorts of Merchants keep their Shops. It is under the Command of a Bey that is able to raiſe eight or ten thouſand Horſe, and more Foot than any other of the Beys, by reaſon his Country is ſo populous.   From Amadié to Giouſmark, days 4 From Giouſmark to Alback, days 3 From Alback to Salmaſtre, days 3 Salmaſtre is a pleaſant City upon the Frontiers of the Aſſyrians and Medes, and the firſt on that ſide in the Territories of the Perſian King. The Caravan never lyes there, becauſe it would be above a League out of the way: but when the Caravan is lodg'd, two or three of the principal Merchants with the Caravan-Baſhi according to cuſtom go to wait upon the Kan. The Kan is ſo glad that the Caravan takes that Road, that he preſents the Caravan-Baſhi and thoſe that go with him, with the Garment of Honour, or the Calaat, the Bonnet, and Girdle; which is the greateſt Honour that the King or his Governour can do to Strangers.   From Salamaſtre to Tauris, days. 4

In all thirty-two days journey this way from Aleppo to Tauris. But though this be the ſhorteſt cut, and where they pay leaſt Cuſtoms, yet the Merchants dare hardly venture for fear of being ill us'd by the Beys.

Teren, whoſe Capital City the Perſians call Cherijar, is a Province between Mazandran and the ancient Region of the Perſians known at this day by the name of Hierac, to the South-Eaſt of Iſpahan. 'Tis one of the moſt temperate Countries, that has nothing in it of the contagious Air of Guilan, where the King goes for the purity of the Air, and for his ſport of Hunting; beſides, that it produceth excellent Fruits in many places. The Capital City whereof, which ſome call by the name of the Province, is of a moderate compaſs, but there is nothing worthy obſervation in it: only a League from it are to be ſeen the Ruines of a great City, which had been two Leagues in Circuit. There were abundance of Towers all of burnt Brick, and Pieces of the Wall ſtanding. There were alſo ſeveral Letters in the Stones which were cemented into the Walls; but neither Turks, Perſians, nor Arabians could underſtand them. The City is round ſeated upon a high Hill, at the top whereof ſtood the Ruines of a Caſtle, which the Natives ſay was the Reſidence of the Kings of Perſia.

CHAP. V. The Road from Aleppo to Iſpahan through the ſmall Deſert, and through Kengavar.

I Will deſcribe this Road as if I were to return from Iſpahan to Aleppo. This Road lies through Kengavar, Bagdat, and Anna, where you enter into the Deſert, which I call The little Deſart, becauſe you get over it in far leſs time than the great Deſert that extends Southwards to Arabia the Happy, and where you may often find Water, all the whole Journey being not far diſtant from the River Euphrates. A man that is well mounted may ride this way from Iſpahan to Aleppo in three and thirty day, as I have done, and perhaps in leſs, if the Arabian, whom you take for your guide at Bagdat, knows the ſhorteſt cut through the Wilderneſs.

The Horſe Caravans travelling from Iſpahan to Kengaver are fourteen or fifteen days upon the Road; but being well mounted ten or twelve in a Company, you may Ride it in five or ſix days. The Country through which you travel, is very fertile in Corn and Rice, it produces alſo excellent Fruits and good Wine, eſpecially about Kengavar, which is a large Town well peopl'd.

From Kengavar to Bagdat I was ten days upon the Road. The Country is not ſo fertile but very ſtony in ſome parts. And it conſiſts in Plains and ſmall Hills, there being not a Mountain in all the Road.

Now for a man that travels quick, the Road lies thus:

From Iſpahan to Conſar.

From Conſar to Comba.

From Comba to Oranguié.

From Oranguié to Nahoüand.

From Nahoüand to Kengavar.

From Kengavar to Sahana.

From Sahana to Poliſha, or the Bridge-Royal, being a great Stone Bridge.

From Poliſha to Maidacht.

From Maidacht to Erounabad.

From Erounabad to Conaguy.

From Conaguy to Caſliſciren.

From Caſliſciren to Iengui-Conaguy.

From Iengui-Conaguy to Caſered.

From Caſered to Charaban.

From Charaban to Bourous.

From Bourous to Bagdat.

There are ſome, who inſtead of paſſing through Kengavar, take Amadan, one of the moſt conſiderable Cities of Perſia in their way, and ſo from thence to Toucheré; but the way is longer; and according to the Road which I have ſet down you are to leave Amadan to the North upon the right hand.

Between Sahana and Poliſha you leave the only high Mountain in all the Road to the North. It is as ſteep and as ſtraight as a Wall, and as high as you can ſee; you may obſerve the Figures of men clad like Prieſts, with Surplices and Cenſors in their hands, and yet neither can the Natives tell you, nor any perſon imagin the meaning of thoſe Sculptures. At the foot of the Rock runs a River, over which there is Bridge of Stone.

About a days journey beyond the Mountain you meet with a little City, whoſe ſituation, the Streams that water it, the good Fruits that grow there, and particularly the excellent Wine which it affords, render a moſt pleaſant Manſion. The Perſians believe that Alexander when he return'd from Babylon dy'd in this place, what-ever others have writt'n that he dy'd at Babylon. All the reſt of the Country from this City to Bagdat is a Country of Dates, where the people live in little Hutts, made of the Branches of Palm-trees.

From Bagdat to Anna you ride in four days, through a deſert Country, though it lye between two Rivers.

Anna is a City of an indifferent bigneſs, that belongs to an Arabian Emir. For about half a League round about the Town, the Lands are very well manur'd, being full of Gardens and Country-houſes. The City for its ſituation reſembles Paris; for it is built upon both ſides of the River Euphrates; and in the midſt of the River is an Iſland, where ſtands a fair Moſquee.

From Anna to Mached-raba is five days riding, and from Mached-raba to Taïba, five days more.

Mached-raba is a kind of a Fortreſs upon the point of a Hill, at the Foot whereof ſprings a Fountain like a large Vaſe, which is very rare in the Deſerts. The place is encompaſs'd with high Walls, defended by certain Towers, and in which are little Hutts where the Inhabitants keep their Cattel, of which there is great ſtore, but more Mares and Horſes than Cows.

Taïba is alſo a fortifi'd place in a level Country, or a high Bank of Earth and Brick bak'd in the Sun. Near to the Gate a Fountain ſprings out of the Earth, and makes a kind of a Pond. This Road is moſt frequented by thoſe that travel through the Deſert from Aleppo or Damas to Babylon, or from Damas to Diarbequir, by reaſon of this Fountain.

From Taïba to Aleppo is but three days journey; but theſe three days are the moſt dangerous of all the Road for Robbers, in regard that all the Country is inhabited only by the Bedouïns, or Arabian Shepherds, who make it their buſineſs only to plunder and ſteal.

Now to take the ſame Road from Aleppo to Iſaphan, it lyes thus: From Aleppo to Taïba, days 3 From Taïba to Mached-raba, days 5 From Mached-raba to Anna, days 5 From Anna to Bagdat, days 4 From Bagdat to Bourous, days 1 From Bourous to Charaban, days 1 From Charaban to Caſered, days 1 From Caſered to Conaguy, days 1 From Conaguy to Caſſiſcerin, days 1 From Caſſiſcerin to another Conaguy, days 1 From Conaguy to Erounabad, days 1 From Erounabad to Maidacht days 1 From Maidacht to Sahana, days 1 From Sahana to Kengavar, days 1 From Kengavar to Nahoüand, days 1 From Nahoüand to Oranguie, days 1 From Oranguie to Comba, days 1 From Comba to Conſar, days 1 From Conſar to Iſpahan, days 1

So that whether you travel from Aleppo to Iſpahan, or from Iſpahan to Aleppo you may eaſily ride it in thirty days.

From whence I make this Obſervation, That a man making it but two days more from Alexandretta, and finding a Ship ready there to ſet ſail for Marſeilles, with a fair Wind he may travel from Iſpahan to Paris in two months.

Another time, having an occaſion to go from Aleppo to Kengavar, and ſo to Bagdat; and from thence, ſo through the Deſert; at Bagdat I met with a Spaniard that was travelling the ſame way, with whom I luckily met to bear half the Charges of the Guide; which as ſoon as we had hir'd for ſixty Crowns, we ſet forward from Bagdat; the Spaniard, and I, and our Arabian, who was afoot, walk'd about a Piſtol Shot before our Horſes. From thence to Anna we met with nothing remarkable, but only that we ſaw a Lyon and a Lyoneſs in the Act of Generation: Whereupon our Guide, believing we had been afraid, told us, that he had met them oft'n, but that he never found them do any harm.

The Spaniard according to the humour of his Nation, was very reſerv'd, and contenting himſelf with an Onion, or ſome ſuch ſmall matter at meals, never made much of his guide; whereas I was mightily in his favour, in regard there was never a day paſs'd wherein he did not receive of me ſome good buſineſs or other. We were not above a Muſquet Shot from Anna when we met with a comely old man, who came up to me, and taking my Horſe by the Bridle; Friend, ſaid he, come and waſh thy feat and eat Bread at my Houſe. Thou art a Stranger, and ſince I have met thee upon the Road, never refuſe me the favour which I deſire of thee. The Invitation of the old man was ſo like the cuſtom of the people in ancient times, of which we read ſo many Examples in Scripture, that we could not chooſe but go along with him to his Houſe, where he Feaſted us in the beſt manner he could, giving us over and above Barly for our Horſes; and for us he kill'd a Lamb and ſome Hens. He was an Inhabitant of Anna, and liv'd by the River, which we were oblig'd to croſs to wait upon the Governour for our Paſſports, for which we paid two Piaſters apiece. We ſtaid at a Houſe near the Gate of the City to buy Proviſions for our ſelves and our Horſes; where the woman of the Houſe having a lovely ſprightly Child of nine years of age, I was ſo taken with her humour, that I gave her two Handkerchiefs of Painted Calicut, which the Child ſhewing her Mother, all we could do could not make her take any Money for the Proviſions we had agreed for.

Five hundred paces from the Gate of the City, we met a young man of a good Family, for he was attended by two Servants, and rode upon an Aſs, the hinder part of which was Painted red. He accoſted me in particular, and after ſome Compliments that paſs'd, Is it poſſible, ſaid he, that I ſhould meet a Stranger, and have nothing to preſent him withal? He would fain have carry'd us to a Houſe in the Country whither he was going; but ſeeing we were reſolv'd to keep our way, he would needs give me his Pipe, notwithſtanding all the excuſes I could make, and though I told him that I never took any Tobacco; ſo that I was conſtrain'd to accept of it.

About three Leagues from Anna, we were going to eat among the Ruines of certain Houſes, and had thought to have lain there 'till midnight, when we perceiv'd two Arabians ſent by the Emir, to tell us that he had ſome Letters which he would put into our own hands to the Baſha of Aleppo, to which purpoſe he had order to bring us back. There was no refuſing, ſo that at our coming into the City the next day we ſaw the Emir going to the Moſquée, mounted upon a ſtately Horſe, and attended by a great number of people afoot, with every one a great Poniard ſtuck in their Girdles. As ſoon as we ſaw him we alighted, and ſtanding up by the Houſes, we ſaluted him as he paſs'd by. Seeing our Guide, and threatning to rip up is Belly; Ye Dog, ſaid he, I will give ye your reward, and teach ye to carry Strangers away before I ſee them. Carry them, ſaid he, to the Governours Houſe 'till I return from the Moſquée. Returning from the Moſquée, and being ſeated in a ſpacious Hall, he ſent for us and our Guide, whom he threatned again for carrying us out of the Town without giving him notice. But the Governour pleaded his excuſe, and appeas'd the Emir. After that he ſent for Coffee for us, and then caus'd us to open the Budget that we carry'd behind our Horſes, to ſee whether there were any thing that pleas'd him or no. In my Budget were two pieces of Calicut exquiſitely painted, for two Coverlets of a Bed; two pieces of Handkerchief of Calicut; two Perſian Standiſhes beautify'd with Japon Varniſh; two Damaſcene Blades, one inlaid with Gold, the other with Silver. All which he lik'd, and made me give him. In the Spaniards Budget he found nothing but a few old Clothes: But afterwards being known to have had ſome Diamonds about him, the French Conſul at Aleppo ſentenc'd him to pay me half the charges of what I gave the Emir.

The Prince ſatisfi'd with what he had tak'n, gave order that we ſhould be furniſh'd with all neceſſary Proviſions for our ſelves and our Horſes: but being provided before, we only took three or four handfuls of excellent Dates, to ſhew that we did not flight his kindneſs.

Between Anna and Mached-raba is the Guide to take ſpecial care ſo to order his Stages, as to come every morning to the Wells by break of day, for fear of meeting the Arabs, that come to fetch Water there by that time the Sun is up, who are apt enough to be injurious to Travellers.

At Mached-raba I ſaw one of the moſt beautiful Virgins that ever I beheld in my life.▪ For I had given a Piaſter to an Arab to get me ſome Bread, and going to ſee whether it were bak'd, I found the Virgin putting it into the Oven, who being alone, made me a ſign to retire. There I alſo ſaw a Colt of that wonderful ſhape, that the Baſha of Damas had offer'd three thouſand Crowns for it.

Coming to Taïba, we did not go into the Town, but lay without under the Walls. Only our Arab went in and brought us chopt Straw for our Camels. The Governour of the Town came along with him, and demanded twenty Piaſters of every one, for certain Duties which he pretended payable to him. We knew there were but four due, and refus'd to pay any more; but the Arab having a mind to put a trick upon the Spaniard, gave me a wink, intimating to me that I ſhould not trouble my ſelf: Thereupon the Governour incens'd goes back to the Town, and by and by returns with an Iron Chain; and had certainly carry'd the Spaniard fetter'd to the Fort, had he not laid down the twenty Piaſters. For my part, I was diſcharg'd for my four Piaſters, according to cuſtom.

Drawing near to Aleppo, the firſt Houſes that we came at bordering upon the Deſert were the Houſes of the Arabs and Bedoüins; the ſecond of which being the Habitation of a Friend of our Guide's, I deliver'd my Horſe to the Guide, to whom I had ſold it before at his own earneſt requeſt; for I was reſolv'd to go a-foot to Aleppo: and therefore that I might ſave the Cuſtom of a parcel of Turquoiſes that I had about me, I put them in the Pouches which I carry'd behind my Horſe, and threw the Pouches into a little Cheſt, as if they had been things of no conſequence; and deſir'd the Man of the Houſe to keep them a day or two. The Arab told me, that were it all Gold it ſhould be ſafe; and indeed when I ſent for them within a day or two after, I found nothing miſſing.

When I came to Aleppo, the Engliſh Conſul ask'd me what news from Iſpahan: I made anſwer, that he muſt of neceſſity know better than I, in regard the Engliſh Preſident there had ſent away an Expreſs to him while I was there; and that he went away with two Capuchins and an Arabian Guide. There upon the Conſul miſtruſting ſome miſchief was befal'n them, requeſted the Baſha to lend him ſome of his Soldiers; who readily granted him eight Men, part Arabians, part Bedoüins. Theſe the Conſul order'd to diſperſe themſelves upon ſeveral Roads in the Wilderneſs, to ſee if they could meet with any tidings upon the Way. In a ſhort time two of them return'd with two little Pouches, in one of which was the Packet of Letters. They reported alſo, that in a by-place between Taïba and Mached-raba they ſaw the Bodies of four dead Men lying upon the Sand. One of them which was in black Clothes, being hack'd and mangled in a moſt miſerable manner; but the Bodies of the other three were entire, though run through in ſeveral places. Some time after the perſons themſelves that did the fact told both at Diarbequir and Damas, how it came to paſs. For certain Merchants of Damas going to Diarbequir, perceiv'd four Men early in the morning at certain Wells where they were to ſtop; whereupon they ſent two of their Company before to know who they were. But the Auſtin-Frier having a little parcel of Diamonds about him, and believing them to be Thieves, inconſiderately let fly his Gun and kill'd one of them immediately upon the place: the Merchants ſeeing one of their companions dead, fell all at once upon the other three, cut the Auſtin-Frier to pieces, and flew the reſt; and ſo without rifling them purſu'd their Journey.

From Aleppo I went to Alexandretta, and there embarqu'd in a Veſſel of Marſeilles, with a favourable Wind, 'till we came to make the Coaſt of Candy, where we were becalm'd for two days. One morning by break of day we diſcover'd a Pickaroon, whereupon ſeeing we could not avoid being fetch'd up by him, we made ready. He made two or three ſhot at us, which did us no other harm but only touch'd the Beak-head of the Ship. Our Gunner made a ſhot at him, which brought down his Top-gallant; aſecond went through and through the great Carbin, and caus'd a great diſorder in his Ship, as far as we could diſcern with our Proſpective-Glaſſes. But when the Wind began to blow freſh, the Pirate, who had enough of us, and had diſcover'd another Veſſel which perhaps he thought better prize, made all the Sail he could from us toward the other Veſſel. Thereupon we purſu'd our Voyage with a fair Gale, and came to Malta.

From Malta we departed ſeven or eight in company, in two of the Pope's Gallies, ſtaying three days at Syracuſe, and one at Meſſina; where our Company increaſing, we hir'd a Feluck for Naples. But as we were coaſting by the Shoar to the Port of Naples, ſo terrible a Tempeſt ſurpriz'd us near to Paolo, that we were forc'd to put in there upon Palm-Sunday. The next day we went to ſee the Covent of St. Francis of Paolo; the way to it lying between a high Mountain on the right, and a Precipice on the left hand. This Mountain leans ſo, that it ſeems to be tumbling down; and there is a good height upon the Rock the ſeeming print of a Hand, which as the report goes, was the print of St. Francis's Hand, who ſuſtain'd it a whole day, and kept it from falling. From Paolo we went to Naples, where we arriv'd upon Eaſter-eve; and as we enter'd into the City, the great Guns went off round the City, in honour of the Reſurrection. At Rome we all ſeparated, according as our Buſineſs led us.