The perillous and most unhappy voyages of John Struys Through Italy, Greece, Lifeland, Muscovia, Tartary, Media, Persia, East-India, Japan, and other places in Europe, Africa and Asia. Containing, I. Most accurate remarks and observations of the distinct qualities, religion, politie, customs, laws and properties of the inhabitants: II. A due description of the several cities, towns, forts, and places of trust, as to their site and strength, fortifications by nature, or art, &c. with other things worthy of note: and, III. An exact memorial of the most disastrous calamities which befell the author in those parts (viz) by ship-wrack, robberies, slavery, hunger, tortures, with other incommodities and hardships. To which are added 2 narrativs sent from Capt. D. Butler, relating to the taking in of Astrachan by the Cosacs. Illustrated with divers curious plates, first designed and taken from the life by the author himself. Rendered out of Nether-dutch by John Morrison· — Reysen door Moscovien, Tartarijen, Oost-Indien. English

The perillous and most unhappy voyages of John Struys Through Italy, Greece, Lifeland, Muscovia, Tartary, Media, Persia, East-India, Japan, and other places in Europe, Africa and Asia. Containing, I. Most accurate remarks and observations of the distinct qualities, religion, politie, customs, laws and properties of the inhabitants: II. A due description of the several cities, towns, forts, and places of trust, as to their site and strength, fortifications by nature, or art, &c. with other things worthy of note: and, III. An exact memorial of the most disastrous calamities which befell the author in those parts (viz) by ship-wrack, robberies, slavery, hunger, tortures, with other incommodities and hardships. To which are added 2 narrativs sent from Capt. D. Butler, relating to the taking in of Astrachan by the Cosacs. Illustrated with divers curious plates, first designed and taken from the life by the author himself. Rendered out of Nether-dutch by John Morrison· — Reysen door Moscovien, Tartarijen, Oost-Indien. English

The perillous and most unhappy voyages of John Struys Through Italy, Greece, Lifeland, Muscovia, Tartary, Media, Persia, East-India, Japan, and other places in Europe, Africa and Asia. Containing, I. Most accurate remarks and observations of the distinct qualities, religion, politie, customs, laws and properties of the inhabitants: II. A due description of the several cities, towns, forts, and places of trust, as to their site and strength, fortifications by nature, or art, &c. with other things worthy of note: and, III. An exact memorial of the most disastrous calamities which befell the author in those parts (viz) by ship-wrack, robberies, slavery, hunger, tortures, with other incommodities and hardships. To which are added 2 narrativs sent from Capt. D. Butler, relating to the taking in of Astrachan by the Cosacs. Illustrated with divers curious plates, first designed and taken from the life by the author himself. Rendered out of Nether-dutch by John Morrison· — Reysen door Moscovien, Tartarijen, Oost-Indien. English

Table of contents

Title page

The TRANSLATOR to the READER.

A TABLE, Or Summary Comprehenſion Of every Paragraph in the Three VOYAGES Of JOHN STRUYS.

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DIRECTIONS For the BOOK BINDER, How to place the PLATES.

THE Perillous and moſt Unhappy TRAVELS of JOHN STRUYS, Through Italy, Turky, Perſia, Tartary, Eaſt-India, Moſcovia, &c.

CHAP. I. The firſt Occaſion of the Authors going to Travel. A Sea-Storm. Arrival at Gibralter, at Genua, with it's Deſcription, at Velez Malaga. Reſcontre with 9 Corſairs of Algiers. Arrival at Boa Viſta. A Deſcription of the Salt Iſlands, Ilha Mayo, Ilha del Fuogo, St. Jago and Ilha del Brava. Proper Climat of thoſe Iſles. Arrival at Sierra Liones; The great Incivilitie of the King, allured to come aboard, fettered, and afterward thrown over board, A Deſcription of Sierra Liones.

CHAP. II. Arrival at Madagaſcar. The remarkable Chance of the Commander, meeting with the King. The Death of the Vice Commander Benning; and the diſorders thence ariſing. Both the Ships put in a Fighting Poſture, and ready to give each other Battel. Voogt yields, and is fetter'd. The deſcription of Madagaſcar; it's Fertility, Store of Cattel; Goodneſs of their Sheep; Many kinds of Monkeys. Nature of the Inhabitants, Form, Habit, Houſe-keeping, Marriages and Funerals. Their impious cruelty over their Children. Their Religion, Policy and Warrs.

CHAP. III. The Author's departure from Madagaſcar, Arrival at Sumatra. Four Prizes belonging to Atchin taken. The beaſtly Senſuality of ſome of the Ships-company, upon a Woman. The Ship whereon the Author was, taken as Prize, and brought up to Batavia. The men plundered and their Cheſts broken up. The Author admitts himſelf into the Service of the Eaſt India Company, his Voyage to Siam. An accurate deſcription of that Kingdom.

CHAP. IV. •he Nature and Way of living of the Siamers. Their ſeveral Trades and Profeſſion. Travail of their Merchants. Government and Politie. The great State of the Emperour, and Magnificency of his Throne: his Cavalcade, and manner of shewing himſelf to his People. The Riches of his Veſſels, the Elephants ſerved in Gold and Silver. The Wars about the white Elephant, againſt Ava and Pegu.

CHAP. V. The Revenues and Treaſury of the King of Siam. The Religious zeal of thoſe Kings in building of Temples, and Houſes for pious uſes. Soldiers without pay. The great Slavery and Charges of the Citizens and Plebeians, their Obedience, and Liberality in devotion. Ample Revenues of the Spiritual. Habit and Function of their Prieſts. The Multitude and monſtrous bigneſs of ſome of their Idols. Their Ceremonies in Worship; wherein congruous to thoſe of the Romiſ• Religion.

CHAP. VI. Good materials for building in Siam. Their manner of Houſe-keeping, and entertainment of Friends. Neatneſs and cleanlineſs in their Houſes and Bodies. Their way of dreſſing themſelves, both men and Women. Strange Contracts of matrimony. Early marriage. Education of their Children. Learning and learned men had in great veneration. Rites about their deceaſed. Ʋrbanity in their Converſation. The great Affection of the Emperour towards Strangers &c.

CHAP. VIII. The Sieur van Muyden invited to the Exequies of the Princeſs. A ſtately Scaffold erected for the Solemnity of the day. A magnificent and ſumptuous Altar Ornaments of the Corps. The Train attending the Ceremony: Order of the ſame. Money thrown among the People. Stages erected for the Almoſners. Artificial Fireworks. The vaſt Charges of this Preparation.

CHAP. IX. The Body of the Princeſs burnt. A remarkable token, whereby, it was concluded that ſhe was poyſoned. The Kings fury againſt all the Domeſtics of the Princeſs, who are committed to cuſtody. The cruel Puniſhment of the ſuſpected Parties. A ſtrange wa• to find out the guilty. Elephants uſed as Executioners. Fifty men and Women executed in one day, ſome by Elephants, others buried in the Earth, to the Head, where they are ſuffered to ſtarve. A Young Lady with her Brother taken and diſpatched. Their Candour, and free reſolvedneſs to die.

CHAP. X. The proud, and blaſphemous Titles of the King of Siam. The great Preparations uſed to aſſwage the Waters of the Ganges.

CHAP. XI. Departure from Siam. They take a Junk. The Cambodiers put in a Ship with rudder or ſails. Arrival at Formoſa. The Junk and all the men caſt awa• ▪ Deſcription of Formoſa, with an account of its Products, and the Nature of • Inhabitants, as alſo their Houſes, Habit and Cuſtomes.

CHAP. XII. The Author departs from Formoſa. His arrival at Japon. The Deſcription of Nangueſaque. The Condition of the Town. A dreadfull fire at Nangueſaque. The Stature, Nature, Habits, and Cuſtomes of the Japoneezes. Departure from Japon. Arrival at Formoſa the ſecond time. Their return to Siam, where they take in Elephants. The Author beat with a ropes end at the Main-maſt, and why. His return for Holland, and End of the firſt Voyage.

THE SECOND VOYAGE of JOHN STRUYS.

CHAP. I. An account of the Authors undertaking his Second Voyage. A great Sea Storm. His arrival at Yarmouth, and at Leghorn, with a Deſcription of that Town; as alſo of Pica and Florence, and laſtly of Bologne.

CHAP. II. The Author departs from Bologne, and arrives at Ferrara. Aſſail'd by a Robber: His Arrival at Venice, where he liſts himſelf in the Armade. He arrives at Sante. A great ſtorm between Milo and Argenter. The Ship called The Golden Cock ſplit upon Rocks. A ſad Shipwrack. A woman wonderfully ſav'd. The Authors arrival at Candia: Departs with a Tartan to the Venetian Armade. Their Appearance before Mytilene, where they obtain much Spoil and Proviſion; at laſt aſsaulted by 200 of the Turkish Chevalrie. Their Encounter, and return aboard the Fleet.

CHAP. III. The Authors Arrival at Sante Monte; and at Troy. The Galleys of Bay come with the Turkish Armade. An English Ship ingaged with the Turks; defends her ſelf manfully, and at laſt burned. The Author made Slave, and put in a Galley, with an old Ruſs: Conſult to eſcape: Betake themſelves to Water, and are diſcovered. The Ruſs shot with an arrow. They come both to the Venetian Armade.

CHAP. IV. The fugitive Slaves brought before the General. The manner of their Encouraging their Men. Number of the Venetian Ships and Galleys. Names of the Commanders and Chieftains The Malteezes joyn with the Armade. The Turkish Fleet ſail up, endeavour to break through, are hindred by the Malteezes. The Turks throw up two Batteries. A dreadfull Engagement, and playing off the Cannon for three days together. The Turks begin to ſettle. The Stability and valour of the Venetians. The Turks looſe their Courage.

CHAP. V. The Wind turns in favour of the Venetians. The Turks flee and are obſtructed. The brave Courage of the Galleys of Bey. General Marcello kill'd. The manly Behaviour of Lazaro Mocenigo, who looſes one eie. Two Dutch Ships, to wit, Yet Wapen van Naſſau, and Den David en Goliath, blown up with their own Powder. The Turkish Capitana yields. The General and diſorderly Flight of the Turks. Their total overthrow, and loſs on both ſides.

CHAP. VI. The Siege of Tenedos. The two Caſtles ſurrendred. A deſcription of Tenedos, Lemnos, it's Situation, and taking in. The preſent ſtate of Greece. J. Struyſ's arrival at Pathmos and Samos. Taken by the Turks with 6 of his Companions, and ſoon after ranſom'd.

CHAP. VII. The Author admitts himſelf again into the Service of the Venetians. Arrival at Corfu with an account of it's Strength, Bulwarks, Sconces and other Fortifications, near, and about the City. Fertility of the Iſland. Arrival at Cephalonia, it's Fertility, Situation and Strength. Arrival at Sante, an account of its Strength, its Villages, Scarcity of fresh Water. Arrival at Cerigo: Situation of that Iſland, Reliques, or Ruins of the Temple of Venus.

CHAP. VIII. The Author's arrival at Sante, or Xante, It's admirable Strength, Villages, and great Scarcity of fresh Water. Their Dough for bread kneaded with Wine in ſtead of Water. Arrival at Cerigo; Situation of that Iſland. Reliques of the Temple of Venus. Arrival at Candia, with it's Situation, A Deſcription of the Citie, as to it's Strength, Inhabitants, the moſt eminent Buildings and Churches, Climat, Soil, Vintage, Fruits, Vegetables, Cattel, Fowl, Plenty of Silk and other Commodities, as alſo the modern Habit and Attire of the Candians. A Deſcription of Standia. The famous Fight between Lazaro Mocenigo and the Tributary Auxiliaries of Argiers, Tripoli, Theunis and Zoëli. The Fort of Zouaſchi taken in by the Proveditor Mocenigo. The Turks attacque Tenedos, but in vain. The Turkish Armada come out of the Dardanelli. The Beginning of the Ingagement. The Turkish Emperour comes with an Army of 20000 Horſe, and 80000 Foot down to the shore, where from a high Tent he ſees' the Ingagement. The Turks looſe their Poſts, and Sail off. The incomparable valour of Mocenigo and Bembo, who are unluckily killd by the fall of a Sail yard. Their Galley blown up with 400 Men. The Loſs and Gains on both ſides.

CHAP. IX. The Venetian Armade appear before Napoli di Malvazia, where they attacque a Redoubt, which is ſurrendred. The City treats with the Governour. The Fleet appears before Santorini; 2 terrible Earthquakes: Wine good and cheap. The Author ſent ashoar to buy Proviſion. The Fleet under Sail. The Turks come upon the Iſland, & the Author in danger of being made Slave; hidden by the Greeks, and brought Embro to with a Barque. Arrival before Nicſia, The Ruins of Apollos Temple. Arrival at Metelino, it's Situation and Strength; plenty of Marble, Cypres wood, Wine, and Cattel. Nicſia the Winter-haven for the Turkish Galleys. S. Georgia de Scyro. Delos: Reliques and Ruins of Heathenish Temples and Images of Apollo, Minerva and Diana. The Caſtle of Tenos blown up with it's own Powder. The Iſland Milo, it's Situation, Strength, Harbours, Inhabitants, Religion, ſtore of Proviſion and Victuals. The Ship De Princes, ſprings a leak. The Author goes aboard a Privateer, leaves her and goes for Holland.

THE THIRD VOYAGE of JOHN STRUYS.

CHAP. I. The Author undertakes his Third Voyage for Moſcovia. The Names of the Officers and others employed with him on that Journey and Voyage. Their Difficulties in going out. Arrival at Riga, with a Deſcription of the Town, and their Departure from thence. The Nature of the Lifelanders their Houſes, Cuſtomes, Condition, Religion, and quaint form of an Oath. Arrival at Wolmar, with a Deſcription thereof. Their difficult Travels through Lifeland.

CHAP. II. Arrival at Pitſiora, and at Pletskow, A ſtrange Paſſage of a hungry Bear. The ſpindle-bone or shank of a Giant. The Pleaſant Proſpects and delightſome Landships of Moſcovia. Arrival at Novogorod. The Antiquity and former Glory of that City; how taken by the Moſcovian, and Fortified by the Swede. Their Departure from Novogorod, Reſcounter with a Company of Robbers, and Arrival at Colomna. Great abundance of Wolves. Coldneſs of the Climat.

CHAP. III. A Quarrel with the Ruſſians, Eight Dutch Merchants murthered in a Wood. Arrival at Tweer, Another Reſcountre with a Party of Robbers. Money ſent from Moskow. Purſuit of their Journey. They enter Moſcou. Their good Reception. The great Bear-Garden. Wolf and Bear-baiting. Death of the Empreſs, and the pompous Exequies.

CHAP. IV. Situation of Moſcou. It's Diviſions and Wards. Kitay-Gorod the firſt City. The great number of Churches and Cloyſters. High Towers. Noted Humility and Obedience of a Ruſſian Gentleman. The greateſt Bell in the World at Moſcou. The Church of Jeruſalem, Zaar-gorod the ſecond, Skorodom the third, and Strelitza Slowoda the fourth Town. Great number of Houſes within the City Moſcou. A great Fire, whereby many Houſes were conſumed. The coldneſs of the Climate. Diſeaſes proper to the Countrey. Fertility and Products of the Land.

CHAP. V. The Form, Nature and Propertie of the Ruſſes. Their ordinary Diet. Their great eſteem of Brandy. Their litigious humors and inclinations to Quarrelling. Their ordinary Habit. Women uſe painting of their Faces. Their manner of their Marriages, and nuptial Solemnities.

CHAP. VI. Divorcement among the Ruſſes and the ſundry occaſions thereof. Their Superſtition about Cleanneſs and Ʋncleanneſs. Baths, and the uſe of the ſame. The Hardineſs and Patience of the Ruſſes in ſuffering the Extremities of Heat, or Coldneſs. Some ſtrange cuſtomes among the Ruſſes. Solemnities at the Burial of their Dead.

CHAP. VII. The Religion and Church-Government of the Ruſſians. The Patriarch and his Office. Of their Sacraments, &c.

CHAP. VIII. The Juriſdiction of the Czaar, his Titles, Revenues and ſtrict Juſtice.

CHAP. IX. Celebration and Solemnity of Palm-Sunday. The Departure of the Author out of Moſcou to Aſtrachan. Heads and Officers. They ſet Sail. A heavy ſtorm. Arrival at Niſen-Novogorod; Plenty of Proviſion at Niſen. A deſcription of the famous River Wolga. Beginning of the Cerem Tartars. Their Cuſtoms and Nature, Their Idolatrie. Ceremonies about the Dead. Their Habit, Polygamy, &c.

CHAP. X. The Ship ſet faſt upon a Foord. The great Ʋtility of the Linden-tree. Some of the Company drowned. Fertility and excellent Soil of the Banks of the Wolga. Arrival at Caſan. Caſan taken in by the Ruſſes. The Caſan-Tartars fight the Ruſſes. The Ruſſian Army flee. Moſcou taken in. The Czar becomes Tributary to the Tartars. The good Conduct and valour of the Governour of Reſan, who reſtores the Czar and the Empire to it's former Freedom.

CHAP. XI. Departure from Caſan. The ſtrange manner of taking Fish. Cities demolished by Tamerlan. The Ship run faſt aground. The Salt-Pans, and manner of making Salt. Difficult Sailing in the Wolga. A New City built for defence againſt Robbers and Pyrates. The great abundance of Liquirice about Aſtrachan, The Land of the Calmuc-Tartars.

CHAP. XII. Situation of Aſtrachan. The Inhabitants. How Aſtrachan became ſubject to the Czaar. Strange manner of Tents, or Cottages. Proviſion very cheap and Brandy dear. A Deſart affoarding good Salt, and a ſtrange kind of Fruit. The Form and Nature of the Nagayan Tartars. Their Habit, manner of Life and Houſe-keeping. Their Trades and way of earning money, Horſeflesh, Mares-milk and Blood in great eſteem by them.

CHAP. XIII. Diviſions and Limits of the Coſacks. The Offſpring of Stenko. The Reaſon of his Revolting. The firſt beginning of his Inſolency. His treacherous Cruelty: The Governour of Aſtrachan makes preparation againſt him. He betakes himſelf to flight and reconciles himſelf with the Czar. The Incredible Riches and coſtly Attire of the Coſacks. The Perſon of Stenko Radzin deſcribed. The meeting and diſcourſe of the Author with Stenko Radzin. He keeps a Perſian Princeſs for his Concubine, which he throws with his own hand into the Wolga. His Punishment for Adultery.

CHAP. XIV. Stenko returns back and is followed by many Ruſſes, but oppoſed by an Order from Pſoforoski, which Stenko diſobeys. He returns again with a greater Power. The Waywode of Aſtrachan ſends out a Fleet againſt him, which shamefully yields. The Officers murthered. A great Perplexity at Aſtrachan, Power and Aw of Stenko. His cruelty and Pride. His Legates are devoured of Dogs in Perſia. Kumuskinka ſurrendred by Treachery.

CHAP. XV. The Animoſities and Tumults in Aſtrachan. Stariza taken in by the Coſacks. A Fleet ſent out againſt them. The Coſacks win Tzarnojar. The Ruſſian Fleet yields to the Coſaks. The great Inſolency and boldneſs of the Mobile of Aſtrachan. The valour of the Waywod or Governour. Adviſed to abſcond or abſent himſelf, which is put in practice.

CHAP. XVI. They fall down the Wolga, and miſs their Courſe. Then touch at Oetzjoege. The ſtrange manner of fishing of the Bieloege. The great plenty of Cavear. They meet with great difficulty to gain the Caſpian Sea; which at laſt they get. A deſcription of the Iſland Satyry Boggere, Tall Reeds grow all along the Coaſt. A dreadfull Tempeſt. The Golden Bay. Their meeting with a Tartarian Bark. A deſcription of Terki. The Beginning of the Circas-Tartars; Their Perſons and Complexions deſcribed. Their Habit and Way of Living. Of their Women, their Habit, Humours and Inclinations. Their Idolatry.

CHAP. XVII. They Author and his Company err in their Courſe. They meet with a Coſac-Bark. A great Tempeſt. The Beginning and Limits of the Dageſtan-Tartars; Their Poſture or Frame of Body, Habit and Way of Living. They are great Plagiaries. The Barrenneſs of the Dageſtan Mountains. Another great Tempeſt. The Shallop run aſtrand and is ſpied by the Tartars, who plunder them. The ſtrange way of electing the Dageſtan Kings. They are aſſailed by another Company who ravish the Woman in preſence of her Husband, and convert them all to Slaves. The Author tortured to detect his Companions, which he manfully endures. They are brought before the Oſmyn, and chained.

CHAP. XVIII. The Captives take their leavs of each other. The great Orchard near Tzurbag. Their Arrival at Urwan. Situation of Mount Ararat. An accidental meeting with ſome Carmelito Friars. The Author inſiſted upon to undertake a Cure of a Rupture, which with much perſwaſion, he promiſes to do. His aſcent up the Mountain Ararat, to the Hermites Cell who was his Patient, which he performs in 5 days time. He undertakes and Cures the Rupture. The Copy of an Atteſtation given him by the ſaid Hermite in barbarous Latin. His return down.

CHAP. XIX. The Author put in Chains again: He is inſiſted upon to renounce the Chriſtian Faith and become Mahometan; Divers means to that end put in practiſe by way of Trial. The great gain of warm Baths. The Author taken out of Chains. He is ſold to a Perſian. The Situation of the Caſpian Sea. Great Whirlpools in the Bay of Gilan. A diſcourſe about the Silk-trade. A further Deſcription of the Caſpian Sea, &c.

CHAP. XX. A Deſcription of Derbent: it's Walls. The Sultans Court. Very old Ruins. Divers Watch-towers. Multiplicity of Sepulchrets without Derbent. Their Slave-Market. The Author ſold again. His Patron married with a Polish Woman and runs into Danger of his Life. The Intention of his Patroneſs in running away from her Husband and taking the Author with her. Two of Mr. Struys's Companions come to Derbent. How they made their eſcape from the Tartars. The great Inclination of the Sultan of Derbent to the Hollanders. A Device put in practiſe to ſet one of the Authors Companions at Liberty The Prince takes the Wife of Brak for his own. Brak makes his eſcape.

CHAP. XXI. The great difficulty of getting Wood without Derbent. The Author and his company aſſailed by Robbers two ſeveral times. The kind nature of his Patron. They travel to Scamachy. The Hill Barmach. The Pit of Naphtha. Arrival at Scamachy. A Deſcription of that City. A great Earth-quake at Scamachy. Abundance of men misfortunatly killed. The Author meets with 2 Franciſcan Friars: A rehearſal of ſome part of their Diſcourſe: their Zeal to get him out of the Service of a Mahometan. Advice given him by his Patron. He comes firſt into the Service of the Polish Ambaſſadour.

CHAP. XXII. The Hatred and Churliſhneſs of the Ambaſſadour againſt the Poliſh Gentry. A Poliſh Gentleman murthered in his bed. The pitiful caſe and condition of the Polanders, who were in the Retinue of the Legate. The Ambaſſadours Greedineſs. He indeavours to turn Mahometan, The Authors intention to make his eſcape. Captain Butler and others of his old acquaintance come to Scamachi, where they do what they can for the Captivs. The Ambaſſadors Brother goes for Iſpahan, where he deſires to be admitted as a Mahometan; but is not received, William the Maſters Mate of the Ship Eagle comes to Scamachi. A great Earth-quake. Conſecration of Water among the Armenian Chriſtians. A great concourſe of People, and remarkable Ceremonies.

CHAP. XXIII. The Ambaſſadours Siſter goes to Tafflis, and with her the Poliſh Chirurgeon. The Corps of an Indian burn'd with a Chriſtian ſhe-ſlave. The Woman having taken in a Potion to provoke ſleep, is alſo caſt into the furnace. Two Men murthered at Scamachi, and a tumult thereupon. Strange Ceremonies about the Dead. The Chans ſon is preſented with a Kolotan, or Robe of Favour, and one of the Kings Wives. A man ſtruck dead with ſtaves. A fearful Earth-quake. The Chan alſo receives a Robe of Favour, and a Wife. Pompous Solemnities at the delivery of the ſame. He receives the Princeſs. New Tidings from Ruſſia. The Ambaſſador commanded by the King of Perſia to return for Poland; who makes his excuſe, The miſerable Eſtate of the Poliſh Gentry. Theft committed in the Ambaſſadors Palace. A man tortured that was innocent. The Poliſh Chirurgeon fortunatly married at Tafflis. Another Corps of an Indian burned with a living Woman. The great kindneſs of Hadſy Biram to the Author. His bad entertainment with the Ambaſſador.

CHAP. XXIV. The manner of Celebrating New-years day among the Perſians. Advice from Boynak: from Derbent. Fire-balls fall from the Sky. Five Hundred beautiful Damoſels ſought up for the Scach, or Sophy of Perſia. A quaint mean by which a Merchant ſaves his Daughter. The Author writes to Smyrna. A Chieftain of the Coſaks brought into Scamachy; and is compelled to carry 3 of his Companions Heads in a Bag to Iſpahan, where he is upon promiſe of detecting ſomthing of weïght ſet at Liberty. A Perſian murthered by a drunken Georgian. The murtherer executed by the Brother of the murthered Party. A Horrible Self murther committed by ſeveral Perſons at a Wedding. A great Feaſt celebrated in memory of Hoſſeyn, the 3d Son of Ali. A terrible Earth-quake. The Chans Son dies and is interred.

CHAP. XXV. News from Aſtrachan. A Perſian Woman and Adultereſs taken in the Fact. A Young Gentleman caned to death by Order of the Prince and complaint of his Father. Another put to the ſame death. One of the Authors Companions goes for Iſpahan, Hailſtones as big as Eggs. The Author and a Venetian entertained in an Armenian Monaſtery. A Woman taken in Adultery, for which ſhe is ſurrendred up to the Will and Power of her Husband, who fleas her alive, nails up her Skin upon the Wall, and throws out her Carcaſe into the ſtreet. The great Jealouſie of the Perſians. The male Children about the Court gelded. The great Slave market at Scamachy. The unnatural cuſtom of the Geor-Georgians, The Ambaſſadour receives a Charge to depart.

CHAP. XXVI. A dreadfull Tempeſt. Great Balls of Fire fall upon the Earth. A moſt fearful Deluge whereby Houſes, Men and abundance of Cattel are carried away. The Chan receivs another Robe of Favour. The Offerings of the Banjans, for the Fowl and Fiſh. The Religious Exerciſe of the Perſian Women. The Author's Diſcourſe with the Chan. The Author meets with one of the Tartars who had made him Slave. He gets out of the ſervice of the Poliſh Ambaſſador. The great Bounty and Kindneſs of his Patron Hadzi Biram, and of Altine his Patroneſs. One of his Company, made free.

CHAP. XXVII. Their departure out of Scamachi. The Countrey about Kaſily deſcribed and the manner of living of the Inhabitants. A Deſcription of the River Araxes. The Heath of Mokan, whither all the Banditti and Mutinous Perſons have recourſe. Abundance of Tortviſes near Balharu. The Poverty, yet contented Life of the People and Inhabitants there about. The Author ſet upon by Robbers. The Carravan Aſſailed and Plundered. A famous ſtone Bridge. The ſepulchre of Zeyde Tzeybrail. Arrival at Ardebil. The Situation of that Town. The bitter Cold. Great and raging Whirl-winds. Extraordinary good Wheat. The great Toll and Duty paid for Sheep. Seven and Fifty Towns within the Juriſdiction of Ardebil. A Deſcription of the City, of it's Streets, and of the Street of Strumpets, who are Poëteſſes and ordained to compoſe Hymns of Praiſe to the name of the Great Aly. Free Places within the City. The Markets and Shops. Sumptuous Mezids and Chappels.

CHAP. XXVIII. Hadzi Byram goes to perform his Religious Duties at the Sepulchre of Zeyde Tzebrail. The Author begs of his Lord, that he may be Spectator of the Ceremonies, which at laſt after many intreaties is granted. A Deſcription of that noble Mauſoleum. Famous Baths in Ardebil. The Sulphurous Baths whither the Author accompanies his Patron. The manner of uſing thoſe Baths. The ſtupendious and ſumptuous Sepulchre of Scach Sephy deſcribed. The great Zeal and Devotion of Hadzi Byram. The Oratory, or Houſe of Prayer, where (as they ſay) Schach Sephy prayed and faſted for 40 Days together without Intermiſſion, uſing only a Cup of Water every day. Doors covered with Plates of Gold by Schach Abas. The Library and Repoſitory of the Ʋtenſils for the Kings Table. The Garden or Yard where the Perſian Kings lie interred. The names of the 12 Kings that lie there buried. The Revenues belonging to this Meſar, or ſepulchre. Som faſt Revenues. Ardebil a famous Mart.

CHAP. XXIX. The Author taken for a Perſian, which gave him occaſion to ſee all that was worthy of remark. The Caravan leavs Ardebil, and goes over the famous Mountain Taurus. The Head of the River Kiſiloſeyn. Bad and uneaſy Travelling by reaſon of ſteep Rocks. Peril of Robbers. Arrival at Sultanie. Keydar Pey-Amber, a wonderfull high Mountain. Sultanie it's Situation and by whom built. Emarath, the Noble Palace of King Choddahende. The Temple of Schach Iſmaël. The preſent decaying State of •ultany. The Author ſhorn and habituated after the Perſian Manner. Pleaſant Dales and Valleys. Arrival at Caſ•in. The Situation of that Place. The Court of Schach Tamas. The Place of Convention or Exchange of Whores. The Common Place of Sepulture and Metzid of Scach Beſlade, the Son of Hoſſeyn, by which the Perſians ſwear. The Offering of a Camel.

CHAP. XXX. Departure from Caſwin. Arrival at Saba, and an account of the Condition of that Town. The Earth red and barren by the Curſe of Mahomet. They arrive at Kom, with a Deſcription of that Place. Melons of a very fragrant and lovely ſmell. A ſtrange kind of Cucumbers. Khom the Staple for Weapons. The People addicted to Thievery. The Author's combat with a Greek Renegado. Departure out of Khom. Arrival at Kaſchan. Its Situation. The People, and their way of Living and Negotiation. Noble Carawanſeras, or Houſes of Entertainment. Many Gold-and Silk-Cloth Weevers. A ſort of great and venemous Scorpion and a kind of fell Spiders, which are a powerfull Poyſon, with the ſtrange manner of Cure for the ſame. Their Arrival at Natens. A Faulcon fights and conquers an Eagle.

CHAP. XXXI. Arrival at Iſpahan. Their Reception with the Dutch Reſident. A Rélation of the Stability of Anthony Munſter, who was urged to imbrace Mahometaniſm: his Death and Burial. The Manner and Situation of the Dutch Lodge. The Situation of Iſpahan, it's Greatneſs: Rivers running thrô the ſame. The Aqueduct, a mighty work of Schach Abas. The Streets of Iſpahan. Maydan and Baſar. Fair Arches and Galleries. The Sumptuous Meſtzid of Schach Abas. Dowlet- or Schach-Chane, the Royal Pallace. The Divan-Chane, or Court of Juſtice. The Hiram-Chane, or Palace of the Kings Concubines. Allycarpi a Sanctuary, or place of Refuge. Carawanſeras, Taverns. Cahwae-Chane, Coffee-Houſes. Perſian Saints and Philoſophers. Remal and Falkil, two ſorts of Sooth-ſayers. Their ſtrange and ridiculous way of preſaging. The Kayſery or Gallerie of Shops.

CHAP. XXXII. Taberik Kale the Treaſurie of the Kingdom. The Suburbs of Iſpahan. Tziulfa, a place where the Armenian Chriſtians have their Reſidence. Tabriſabath. Haſſenabath. Kebrabath, ſo called from Kebber, Perſians that are ſtill Pagans. Tzarbag. The Nature of the Perſians. Property of the Land. Celebration of the Epiphany by the Armenian Chriſtians.

CHAP. XXXIII. The great Civility of Hadſi Biram. The Authors Departure out of Iſpahan. Their incommodous Travelling thrô the Snow. Wells and Pits of Water abounding with Fiſh. They are much incommodated in their Travailing. The Caravan aſſailed by Robbers. Their Superſtitious horrour of Swines Fleſh. Sepulchre of Schach Solyman's Mother. The Sepulchre of Noah, his Wife, Children, and Childrens Children. Tzilminar. The Pompous Relicts and Ruins of the famous Perſepolis, and the noble Fort thereof. The Statue of Ruſtan, a Perſian Champion.

CHAP. XXXIV. Arrival at Scyras. They meet with ſom Carmelites. The baſe dealings of thoſe of the Caravan. The Author meets with the Theef that had pillaged him. Mr. Stru• well entertained by a French Chirurgeon. A Deſcription of Scyras. Dive• Meſtzids, or Sepulchres. The Pallace of the Chan. Excellent Wine abo• Scyras. Noble Orchards. Departure from Scyras. The Special Bounty o• the Carmelites and the French Chirurgeon. Dates plentiful and cheap. How the Date-trees are propagated. Arrival at Scharim. They meet a Caravan. Aſſailed by night of 30 Robbers, who kill 5 Men of the Company, and at 〈◊〉 by a unanimous continuance of the Caravan force them to yield. The Robbers b• Quarter which is refuſed. They ſuffer themſelvs to be bound, are diverſly to• tured and diſpatched. Great plenty of Partridges.

CHAP. XXXV. The incommodous Travelling over Mountains. They com into an Inn (or Carawanſe• where they are well entertained. Arrival at Lar. A Deſcription of that Tow• The Ʋnwholſomneſs of the Air and water there. The Inhabitants given 〈◊〉 Hoſpitality and Lovers of all kinds of Diſcipline and Science. Mummay Kob• a pretious Balſam. Remarkable Monuments of Robbers executed. Depart• from Lar. They meet with another Troop of Robbers, whereof 7 are killed They are overtaken by Monſr. Kaſenbroot. Their Arrival at Gamron.

CHAP. XXXVI. A Deſcription of Gamron, or Bendar, and the Etymology. The great Traffic with all Nations. Ʋnwholſomneſs of the Air, and Heat at Gamron. Palepunſchen an unwholſom Drink how made. The Earth dry and barren. Fertility of Kiſmiſch. Of the Inhabitants of Gamron. A wonderful Tree growing without the City. An Indian (reputed) Saint. The beſt ſeaſon for ſtrangers to com and Traffic at Gamron. Merchandiſe brought thither by the Engliſh. The Engliſh receiv Toll with the Scach. The Hollanders trade without paying Toll. The Author falls very ſick and in deſpair of Recovery. The kindneſs and bounty of L. van Akerſloot to him. He recovers. Set ſail from Gamron. Arrival at Maſchate and a Deſcription of that Town. The violent Heat about Maſchate which renders the Air very unwholſom. Their Departure from Maſkate. Arrival at Batavia. The Author hires himſelf for Sailmaker. Comes with 7 Ships before Bantham. Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope.

CHAP. XXXVII. Their Departure from the Cape of Good Hope. The Ship Europa taken by th• Engliſh. The Engliſh take the Iſland of St. Helena, and 2 Dutch Ships more Th• Author warns the reſt of the Ships. Three Dutch Ships ſcape a ſcouring. Arrival at Aſcenſion. Abundance of Tortoiſes on that Iſland. A Deſcriptio• of the ſaid Iſland. It's Ʋnfruitfullneſs and want of freſh water. A Debate •e• among the Engliſh to leav the Dutch upon the Iſland. Departure from Aſcenſion. Arrival at Kingſale in Ireland. Their Departure from thence, Arrival at Bri• and finally at Home.

The Copy of a NARRATIV, Written from aboard the Ship EAGLE, belonging to his Imperial Majeſty the Czar of Moſcovia, riding at Anchor before ASTRACHAN upon the River Wolga, bearing date September, XXIV, M DC LXIX, O. S.

The Copy of a NARRATIV, Sent from Capt. D. Butler, dated at ISPAHAN, March 6th. 1671.

A TABLE Of The Names and moſt remarkable Things contained in the three Voyages of IOHN STRUYS.

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

I

K

L

M

N

O

P

Q

R

S

T

V

W

X

Z

ERRATA.

§

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The Perillous and moſt Unhappy VOYAGES Of JOHN STRUYS, Through Italy, Greece, Lifeland, Moſcovia, Tartary, Media, Perſia, Eaſt-India, Japan, and other Places in EUROPE, AFRICA and ASIA.

Containing,

I. Moſt accurate Remarks and Obſervations of the diſtinct Qualities, Religion, Politie, Cuſtoms, Laws and Properties of the Inhabitants:

II. A due Deſcription of the ſeveral Cities, Towns, Forts and Places of Truſt, as to their Site and Strength, Fortifications by Nature, or Art, &c. with other things worthy of Note: and,

III. An exact Memorial of the most diſaſtrous Calamities which befell the Author in thoſe Parts (viz) by Ship-wrack, Robberies, Slavery, Hunger, Tortures, with other Incommodities and Hardſhips.

To which are added 2 Narrativs ſent from Capt. D. Butler, relating to the Taking in of Aſtrachan by the Coſacs.

Illuſtrated with divers curious Plates, firſt deſigned and taken from the Life by the Author himſelf.

Rendred out of Nether-dutch by JOHN MORRISON.

LONDON, Printed for Samuel Smith, at the Princes Arms in S. Pauls Church-yard MDCLXXXIII.

The TRANSLATOR to the READER.

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Ingenuous Reader,

HISTORY, which is the Light of Truth and Life of Memory, hath two Eies, viz, Chronology and Topography: That, giving Evidence of Things and Actions as to the Time, This, as to the Place. ‘Among Hiſtories (ſaith an incomparable Doctor) Itineraries have the preheminence, in which we have the moſt memorable Things and Events faithfully related ex [...], (as he phraſes it) or, from Eie-wittneſs:’ The Utility and Certainty whereof may be meſured from the Reputation and Conſcience of the Relater.

AND theſe, as they are more delectable to read, becauſe ever interſperſed with Actions as well as Things, ſo they are more to be valued in reſpect of their Credit. Thucydides that moſt excellent Hiſtorian was highly accounted of by Dionyſius Halicarnaſſeus, Cicero, Fabius, and others famous in the World; but abov all by Demoſthenes the noble Orator of Athens, who to make his works the more familiar to himſelf, is affirm'd by Lucian to have copied them 8 times over; and all this for his Faithfullneſs and Credit, being himſelf a chief Captain in the Peleponeſian Warrs, and an Eie-wittneſs from the Beginning to the End. Even ſo is Strabo juſtly preferred before Pomponius M [...]la, Ptolomy and other Geographers, for that he is ſaid to have written about no Place but what himſelf had ſeen, as partly may be gathered out of thoſe words of Blancan * Strabo eruditiſsimè ac fusè orbis ſitum, cujus magnam partem peragraverat, deſcripſit. And what a veneration has the World for that of R. Benjamin, the famous Iewiſh Geographer? not onely for his elegant manner of deſcribing Things memorable and worthy of Remark (in which, ſaith Neander, he was ſecond to none) but that [Page] he took little or nothing upon Credit, having himſelf travailed thrô the moſt conſiderable part of the World, and conſequently (with the help of his great Judgment and Experience) able to correct the Miſtakes of others, who had made too bold Conjectures. Experience every Age makes a new Diſcovery of old Errors, and Mercator often givs Ptolomy the Lie.

— Aetas ſemper aliquid adportet novi.

— Seris venit uſus ab annis.

SUCH Obſervations as pertain to various Regions and Diverſity of Countreys may alſo ſeem to giv a more general Satisfaction, and to be of greater Utility than Deſcriptions peculiar to one place; Semper laudata fuit hiſtoria quae non unius regionis cancellis conſtringitur; ſed quam latè terrarum termini extenduntur, expatiatur. They are L'Empereur's Words.

BUT as it is not needfull that I ſhould make many inſtances of ſuch Obſervations in general, as to their Uſefullneſs, ſo I ſhall not weary my Readers Patience further than what I ſhall ſay to theſe in particular, which is the only reaſon I have to uſe the formality of a Preface, that might as well have bin left out, if ſom few reaſons had not urg'd me to the contrary, but chiefly to anticipate what I preſage ſom will object againſt them, aſwell as in conſideration of what a Great Man in the laſt Age ſaid, * Non tutum est ullum emittere Librum niſi ſatellitio munitum: as if he would ſay, 'Tis not ſafe to put forth any Book unleſs guarded with a File of Muſquetiers.

OUR Traveller without doubt will fruſtrate the expectation of ſom, in not giving a more ample account of every Countrey he has ſeen, by an accurate noting down of the Religion, Politie, particular Rites and Cuſtoms of the Inhabitants, nor making a further ſcrutiny as to the Antiquity and Original Deſcent and Offſpring of the People as ſom have don. 'Tis undeniably ſo, for I find him more buſy in recording [Page] the circumſtances of his own perſonal condition, and what befell him in remote Places, than remarking the State and Quality of the Land and People, nor do I hold it conſiſtent with the Duty of him that would be a faithfull Interpreter to do that Office for him; notwithſtanding the Freedom ſom has aſſumed in another Language (or ſhall I ſay, Another Work) to leav out more than 70 intire Paragraphs, in ſeveral places thrô the Book, and ſupplied the vacancy by tranſcribing out of other Journals, which I am confident is not to be found either in the Authors Autograph, or Printed Copy.

THE Gentleman's reaſon, I conceiv, was becauſe the Matter of what he thought good to ommit was not ſo ſolid, containing ſom homely Paſſages not to be taken notice of, and conſequently would not endure ſuch ſoaring Language, as things more ſublime and important would, for, Ex quovis ligno non fit Mercurius. Nor had it bin leſs warrantable for me to have don the like, and tacitly to have paſſed over ſuch humble Matter as would rather challenge an expreſſion of homely Sentences than feſtivity of Style, which the friendly Reader will find I'me no where guilty of.

THIS Journal, I am bound to ſay (notwithſtanding the main Advantages our Author wanted, both in Eſtate and Parts, which you'l readily inferr no Traveller ought to be without, that would bring his Obſervations upon the public Theater of the World) have nevertheleſs found a gremious entertainment amongſt all ſorts of Men, being already publiſhed in ſeveral Languages: nor can I find any reaſon to fear, but, as it is for a more univerſal Peruſal taught to ſpeak Engliſh, 'twill be as acceptable to our own Nation, as it has bin abroad in other Countreys, where they are in general more inclined to read Fictions and Fables, than true Philology, and ſuch as may juſtly be convinced by that of an obſcene, but witty * Poet:

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Qui legis Oedipodem calligantèmque Thyeſtem,

Colchidas & Scyllas, quid niſi monſtra legis?

Quid te vana juvant miſerae ludibria chartae?

Hoc lege, quod poſsis dicere jure, Meum est.

OBSCENE indeed incluſivly, but juſtifiable enough in this, for, as the great Caſaubon in his modeſt Anſwer to the Epiſtle of Cardinal Du Perron ſaith, E felle mero mel merum interdum exiſtit, ſo there is nothing ſo corrupt or putrid, but that ſomthing ſound may be extracted from it.

CERTAINLY the Diſcrepance of Mens Fancies muſt be notedly great, if the Price and Peruſal of this ſmall Volum ſhould ſeem too great and laborious to the Buyer and Reader, which has coſt the Author ſo much Time and Pains in Travail, for the greateſt part of Six and Twenty years, during which time he has bin attended with continual Perils on the one hand and unſpeakable Sufferings on the other: by Land in perpetual Jeopardy of his Perſon for Robbers, Cannibals, Ravenous and venemous Animals; by Sea for Pyrats, Shipwracks, &c. and by both, ſubject to Hunger, Thirſt, Scorching Heats, Colds, Sickneſs, and other unavoidable Extremities and gravaminous Solitudes; beſides the lamentable Condition of Slavery, in which I found him both among Turks, Tartars and Perſians, yet after all returned home in ſafety, and at this preſent here in London.

IT is a thing no leſs cuſtomary than unmannerly among ſom, who will hold all things for forged and falſe, except what themſelvs ſee, and would have all themſelvs ſay to be received for Oracles. 'Tis not long ago that a young Sycophant (and one perhaps, who thought himſel [...] ſomthing prejudic'd) affirmed that the Pourfiles of thoſe Perſian Citie and others, were but imaginary Fictions, and that, I beleev, becauſe the Etcher had ſet the Letter [In.] for [Invenit] after his Name as who ſhould ſay, but that every Engraver and Etcher underſtood ſ [...] [Page] much Latin, as rightly to diſtinguiſh between Pinxit, Invenit, Sculpſit, Fecit and Excudit, which they often uſe promiſcuously for each other: but beſides my knowledge of our Travailers ability in Drawing, I have other reaſons to give credit to him, as to his faithfull Delineation of thoſe Places, which, for this time being ſo narrowly circumſcribed, I am forc'd to ommit.

THE firſt Voyage perhaps may not affoard ſuch ſatisfaction as ſom will expect, and by conſequence give the Reader no Appetite to go forward; but he whoſe leiſure will permit him to go forward, will in the 2d and 3d Voyages find amends for what is defectiv in the firſt.

IT was intended alſo to publiſh his 4th. Voyage with this, which has not as yet bin printed in any Language, but finding the Authors leiſure not anſwerable to thoſe Intentions, we ſhall deferr it for the next Edition, if this prove but ſo acceptable, as to give occaſion for another: which we know is not uſual with Books of this nature, that ſerv no more than for once reading, and not for a dayly recourſe.

IN the firſt Voyage we find him imbarqued for Genoa in a new Ship, which, with another, was built for that State at Amſterdam in the year 1647. From Genoa he went to the Eaſt-Indies, where by the way he gives a very exact Deſcription of the Salt-Iſlands, Sierra Liones, Madagaſcar, Syam, (with the moſt horrible Maſſacre committed upon the greateſt Perſonages in that Kingdom) then proceeds on his Voyage for Iapan, where he gives you an account of that Iſland and Formoſa.

IN the ſecond the moſt remarkable is the Ingagement between the Venetians and the Turks, by Sea, in which the former fought a ſignal Victory. In this Voyage I alſo find a very accurate Deſcription of the Greek Iſlands, as they are now peopled, with ſeveral Footſteps of Antiquity.

IN the third, and laſt as yet extant, he goes to Moſcovia to ſerve the Czar aboard a new Ship which was built on the Wolga, whereby [Page] the way he gives you a Deſcription of Lifeland and its Inhabitants, as alſo Moſcovia and the Imperial City Moſcou; then proceeding forward he comes at laſt to the Wolga, where ſetting ſail for Aſtrachan, notes punctually what every day occurred. Arriving there he gives you an account of the Inſurrection and Proceeding of the Coſac-Rebels, and the occaſion why he and his Company fled over the Caſpian Sea; with the great hardſhip they ſuffered till they got aſhoar, where beſides many cruel Torments were made Slaves by the Tartars, in which condition he continued till he was redeemed by order of the Governour and Council for the Dutch Eaſt-India Company at Batavia, whither he travailed thrô Perſia, and being by order of the ſaid Company ſent home aboard the Ship Europa, which was taken by the Engliſh in the laſt Dutch Wars; he himſelf was ſent for Ireland with about 300 more of his Countreymen. Where arriving imbarques himſelf for England, and ſo home.

St. Albans Iuly 30, 1683.

I.M.

Notes

*

Blancan. in Chronol. Mathem.

↵

*

Eraſm. de Utilit. Colloqu.

↵

*

Martial. in his 10th Book of Epigrams.

↵

A TABLE, Or Summary Comprehenſion Of every Paragraph in the Three VOYAGES Of JOHN STRUYS.

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1

The FIRST VOYAGE.

CHAP. I. THe firſt Occaſion of the Authors going to Travel. A Sea-Storm. Arrival at Gibralter, at Genua, with it's Deſcription, at Velez Malaga. Reſcontre with 9 Corfairs of Algiers. Arrival at Boa Viſta. A Deſcription of the Salt Iſlands, Ilha Mayo, Ilha del Fuogo, St. Jago and Ilha del Braeva. Proper Climat of thoſe Ilſes. Arrival at Sierra Liones; The great Incivilitie of the King, allured to come aboard, fettered, and afterward thrown over board, A Deſcription of Sierra Liones. Pag. 1.

CHAP. II. Arrival at Madagaſcar. The remarkable Chance of the Commander, meeting with the King. The Death of the Vice-Commander Benning; and the diſorders thence ariſing. Both the Ships put in a Fighting Poſture, and ready to give each other Battel. Voogt yields, and is fetter'd. The deſcription of Madagaſcar; it's Fertility, Store of Cattel; Goodneſs of their Sheep; Many kinds of Monkeys. Nature of the Inhabitants, Form, Habit, Houſe-keeping, Marriages and Funerals. Their impious cruelty ever their Children. Their Religion, Policy and Warrs. Pag. 12.

CHAP. III. The Author's departure from Madagaſcar, [Page] Arrival at Sumatra. Four Prizes belonging to Atchin taken. The beaſtly Senſuality of ſome of the Ships-company upon a Woman. The Ship whereon the Author was, taken as Prize, and brought up to Batavia. The men plundered, and their Cheſts broken up. The Author admitts himſelf into the Service of the Eaſt India Company, his Voyage to Siam. An accurate deſcription of that Kingdom. Pag. 24.

CHAP. IV. The nature and way of Living of the Siamers. Their ſeveral Trades and Profeſſion. Travail of their Merchants. Government and Politie. The great State of the Emperour, and Magnificency of his Throne: his Cavalcade, and manner of shewing himſelf to his People. The Riches of his Veſſels, & the Elephants ſerved in Gold and Silver. The Wars about the white Elephant, againſt Ava and Pegu. Pag. 29.

CHAP. V. The Revenues and Treaſury of the King of Siam. The Religious zeal of thoſe Kings in building of Temples, and Houſes for pious uſes. Soldiers without pay. The great Slavery and Charges of the Citizens and Plebeians, their Obedience, and Liberality in Devotion. Ample Revenues of the Spiritual. Habit and Function of their Prieſts. The Multitude and monſtrous bigneſs of ſome of their Idols. Their Ceremonies in Worſhip; wherein congruous to thoſe of the Romiſh Religion. Pag. 34.

CHAP. VI. Good materials for building in Siam. Their manner of Houſe-keeping, and entertainment of Friends. Neatneſs and cleanlineſs in their Houſes and Bodies. Their way of dreſſing themſelves, both men and Women. Strange Contracts of Matrimony. Early marriage. Education of their Children. Learning and learned Men had in great veneration. Rites about their deceaſed. Urbanity in their Converſation. The great Affection of the Emperour towards Strangers &c. Pag. 37.

CHAP. VIII. The Sieur van Muyden invited to the Exequies of the Princeſs. A ſtately Scaffold erected for the Solemnity of the day. A magnificent and ſumptuous Altar. Ornaments of the Corps. The Train attending the Ceremony: Order of the ſame. Money thrown among the people. Stages erected for the Almoſners. Artificial Fireworks. The vaſt Charges of this Preparation. Pag. 41.

[Page]CHAP. IX. The Body of the Princeſs burnt. A remarkable token, whereby, it was concluded that ſhe was poyſoned. The Kings fury againſt all the Domeſtics of the Princeſs, who are committed to cuſtody. The cruel Puniſhment of the ſuſpected Parties. A ſtrange way to find out the guilty. Elephants uſed as Executioners. Fifty men and Women executed in one day, ſome by Elephants, others buried in the Earth, to the Head, where they are ſuffered to ſtarve. A Young Lady with her Brother taken and diſpatched. Their Candour, and free reſolvedneſs to die. Pag. 44.

CHAP. X. The proud, and blaſphemous Titles of the King of Siam. The great Preparations uſed to aſſwage the Waters of the Ganges. Pag. 50.

CHAP. XI. Departure from Siam. They take a Junk. The Cambodiers put in a Ship without Rudder or Sails. Arrival at Formoſa. The Junk and all the Men caſt away. A Deſcription of Formoſa, with an account of its Products, and the Nature of it's Inhabitants, as alſo their Houſes, Habit and Cuſtomes. Pag. 54.

CHAP. XII. The Author departs from Formoſa. His arrival at Japon. The Deſcription of Nangueſaque. The Condition of the Town. A dreadfull fire at Nangueſaque. The Stature, Nature, Habits, and Cuſtoms of the Japoneezes. Departure from Japon. Arrival at Formoſa the ſecond time. Their return to Siam, where they take in Elephants. The Author beat with a ropes-end at the Main-maſt, and why. His return for Holland, and End of the firſt Voyage. Pag. 59.

2

The SECOND VOYAGE.

CHAP. I. AN account of the Authors undertaking his Second Voyage. A great Sea Storm. His arrival at Yarmouth, and at Leghorn, with a Deſcription of that Town; as alſo of Pica and Florence, and laſtly of Bologne. Pag. 65.

CHAP. II. The Author departs from Bologne, [Page] and arrives at Ferrara. Aſſail'd by a Robber: His Arrival at Venice, where he liſts himſelf in the Armade. He arrives at Sante. A great ſtorm between Milo and Argentero. The Ship called The Golden Cock ſplit upon Rocks. A ſad Shipwrack. A Woman wonderfully ſav'd. The Authors arrival at Candia: Departs with a Tartan to the Venetian Armade. Their Appearance before Mytilene, where they obtain much Spoil and Proviſion; at laſt aſſaulted by 200 of the Turkiſh Chevalrie. Their Encounter, and return aboard the Fleet. Pag. 73.

CHAP. III. The Authors Arrival at Sante Monte; and at Troy. The Galleys of Bay come with the Turkiſh Armade. An Engliſh Ship ingaged with the Turks; defends her ſelf manfully, and at laſt burned. The Author made Slave, and put in a Galley, with an old Ruſs: Conſult to eſcape: Betake themſelves to Water, and are diſcovered. The Ruſs ſhot with an arrow. They come both to the Venetian Armade. Pag. 78.

CHAP. IV. The fugitiv Slaves brought before the General. The manner of their Encouraging their Men. Number of the Venetian Ships and Galleys. Names of the Commanders and Chieftains. The Malteezes joyn with the Armade. The Turkiſh Fleet ſail up, endeavour to break through, and are hindred by the Malteezes. The Turks throw up two Batteries. A dreadfull Engagement, and playing off the Cannon for three days together. The Turks begin to ſettle. The Stability and valour of the Venetians. The Turks looſe their Courage. Pag. 82.

CHAP. V. The Wind turns in favour of the Venetians. The Turks flee and are obſtructed. The brave Courage of the Galleys of Bey. General Marcello kill'd. The manly Behaviour of Lazaro Mocenigo, who looſes one eie. Two Dutch Ships, to wit, Het Wapen van Naſſan, and Den David en Goliath, blown up with their own Powder. The Turkiſh Capitana yields. The General and diſorderly Flight of the Turks. Their total overthrow, and loſs on both ſides. Pag. 87.

CHAP. VI. The Siege of Tenedos. The two Caſtles ſurrendred. A deſcription of Tenedos. Lemnos, it's Situation, and taking in. The preſent ſtate of Greece. I. Struyl's arrival at Pathmos and Samos. Taken by the Turks with 6 of his Companions, and ſoon after ranſom'd. Pag. 90.

CHAP. VII. The Author admitts himſelf again [Page] into the Service of the Venetians. Arrival at Corfu with an account of it's Strength, Bulwarks, Sconces and other Fortifications, near, and about the City. Fertility of the Iſland. Arrival at Cephalonia, it's Fertility, Situation and Strength. Arrival at Sante, an account of its Strength, its Villages, Scarcity of freſh Water. Arrival at Cerigo: Situation of that Iſland, Reliques, or Ruins of the Temple of Venus. Pag. 96.

CHAP. VIII. The Author's arrival at Sante, or Xante, It's admirable Strength, Villages, and great Scarcity of freſh Water. Their Dough for bread kneaded with Wine in ſtead of Water. Arrival at Cerigo; Situation of that Iſland. Reliques of the Temple of Venus. Arrival at Candia, with it's Situation. A Deſcription of the Citie, as to it's Strength, Inhabitants, the moſt eminent Buildings and Churches, Climat, Soil, Vintage, Fruits, Vegetables, Cattel, Fowl, Plenty of Silk and other Commodities, as alſo the modern Habit and Attire of the Candians. A Deſcription of Standia. The famous Fight between Lazaro Mocenigo and the Tributary Auxiliaries of Argiers, Tripoli, Theunis and Zoëli. The Fort of Zouaſchi taken in by the Proveditor Mocenigo. The Turks attacque Tenedos, but in vain. The Turkiſh Armada come out of the Dardanelli. The Beginning of the Ingagement. The Turkiſh Emperour comes with an Army of 20000 Horſe, and 80000 Foot down to the ſhore, where from a high Tent he ſees the Ingagement. The Turks looſe their Poſts, and Sail off. The incomparable valour of Mocenigo and Bembo, who are unluckily kill'd by the fall of a Sail-yard. Their Galley blown up with 400 Men. The Loſs and Gains both on ſides. Pag. 98.

CHAP. IX. The Venetian Armade appear before Napoli di Malvazia, where they attack a Redoubt, which is ſurrendred. The City treats with the Govèrnour. The Fleet appears before Santorini; 2 terrible Earthquakes: Wine good and cheap. The Author ſent aſhoar to buy Proviſion. The Fleet under Sail. The Turks come upon the Iſland, & the Author in danger of being made Slave; hidden by the Greeks, and brought to Embro with a Barque. Arrival before Nicſia, The Ruins of Apollos Temple. Arrival at Metelino, it's Situation and Strength; plenty of Marble, Cypres wood, Wine, and Cattel. Nicſia the Winter-haven for the Turkiſh Galleys. S. Georgia de Scyro. Delos: Reliques and Ruins of Heatheniſh Temples and Images of Apollo, Minerva and Diana. The Caſtle of Tenos blown up with it's own Powder. The Iſland Milo, [Page] it's Situation, Strength, Harbours, Inhabitants, Religion, ſtore of Proviſion and Victuals. The Dutch Ship De Princes, ſprings a leak. The Author goes aboard a Privateer, leavs her and goes for Holland. Pag. 106.

3

The THIRD VOYAGE.

CHAP. I. THe Author undertakes his Third Voyage for Moſcovia. The Names of the Officers and others employed with him on that Journey and Voyage. Their Difficulties in going out. Arrival at Riga, with a Deſcription of the Town, and their Departure from thence. The Nature of the Lifelanders their Houſes, Cuſtomes, Condition, Religion, and quaint form of an Oath. Arrival at Wolmar, with a Deſcription thereof. Their difficult Travels through Lifeland. Pag. 113.

CHAP. II. Arrival at Pitſiora, and at Pletskow, A ſtrange Paſſage of a hungry Bear. The Spindle-bone or Shank of a Giant. The Pleaſant Proſpects and delightſom Landſhips of Moſcovia. Arrival at Novogorod. The Antiquity and former Glory of that City; how taken by the Moſcovian, and Fortified by the Swede. Their Departure from Novogorod, Reſcounter with a Company of Robbers, and Arrival at Colomna. Great abundance of Wolvs. Coldneſs of the Climat. Pag. 120.

CHAP. III. A Quarrel with the Ruſsians, Eight Dutch Merchants murthered in a Wood. Arrival at Tweer, Another Reſcountre with a Party of Robbers. Money ſent from Moſcou. Purſuit of their Journey. They enter Moſcou. Their good Reception. The great Bear-Garden. Wolf and Bear-baiting. Death of the Empreſs, and the pompous Exequies. Pag. 125.

CHAP. IV. Situation of Moſcou. It's Diviſions and Wards. Kitay-Gorod the firſt City. The great number of Churches and Cloyſters. High Towers. Noted Humility and Obedience of a Ruſsian Gentleman. The greateſt Bell in the World at Moſcou. The Church of Ieruſalem, Zaar-gorod the ſecond, Skoredous the third, and Strelitza Slowoda the fourth Town. Great number of Houſes within the City Moſcou. A great Fire, whereby many Houſes [Page] within the City Moſcou. A great Fire, whereby many Houſes were conſumed. The coldneſs of the Climate. Diſeaſes proper to the Countrey. Fertility and Products of the Land. Pag. 130.

CHAP. V. The Form, Nature and Propertie of the Ruſſes. Their ordinary Diet. Their great eſteem of Brandy. Their ordinary Habit. Women uſe painting of their Faces. The manner of their Marriages, and nuptial Solemnities. Pag. 137.

CHAP. VI. Divorcement among the Ruſses and the ſundry occaſions thereof. Their Superſtition about Cleanneſs and Uncleanneſs. Baths, and the uſe of the ſame. The Hardineſs and patience of the Ruſſes in ſuffering the Extremities of Heat, or Coldneſs. Some ſtrange cuſtomes among the Ruſses. Solemnities at the Burial of their Dead. Pag. 146.

CHAP. VII. The Religion and Church-Government of the Ruſsians. The Patriarch and his Office. Of their Sacraments, &c. Pag. 151.

CHAP. VIII. The Juriſdiction of the Czaar, his Titles, Revenues and ſtrict Juſtice. Pag. 155.

CHAP. IX. Celebration and Solemnity of Palm-Sunday. The Departure of the Author out of Moſcou to Aſtrachan. Heads and Officers. They ſet Sail. A heavy ſtorm. Arrival at Niſen-Novogorod; Plenty of Proviſion at Niſen. A deſcription of the famous River Wolga. Beginning of the Cerem-or Crim-Tartars Their Cuſtoms and Nature. Their Idolatrie. Ceremonies about the Dead. Their Habit, Polygamy, &c. Pag. 175.

CHAP. X. The Ship ſet faſt upon a Foord. The great Utility of the Linden-tree. Some of the Company drowned. Fertility and excellent Soil of the Banks of the Wolga. Arrival at Caſan. Caſan taken in by the Ruſſes. The Caſan-Tartars fight the Ruſſes. The Ruſsian Army flee. Moſcou taken in. The Czar becomes Tributary to the Tartars. The good Conduct and valour of the Governour of Reſan, who reſtores the Czar and the Empire to it's former Freedom. Pag. 165.

CHAP. XI. Departure from Caſan. The ſtrange manner of taking Fiſh. Cities demoliſhed by Tamerlan. The Ship run faſt aground. The Salt-Pans, and manner of making Salt. Difficult Sailing in the Wolga. A New City built for defence againſt Robbers and Pyrates. [Page] The great abundance of Liquirice about Aſtrachan, The Land of the Calmuc-Tartars. Pag. 173.

CHAP. XII. Situation of Aſtrachan, he Inhabitants. How Aſtrachan became ſubject to the Czaar. Strange manner of Tents, or Cottages. Proviſion very cheap and Brandy dear. A Deſart affoarding good Salt; and a ſtrange kind of Fruit. The Form and Nature of the Nagayan Tartars. Their Habit, manner of Life and Houſe-keeping. Their Trades and way of earning money, Horſe-fleſh, Mares-milk and Blood in great eſteem by them. Pag. 177.

CHAP. XIII. Diviſions and Limits of the Coſacks. Offſpring of Radzin. The Reaſon of his Revolting. The firſt beginning of his Inſolency. His treacherous Cruelty: The Governour of Aſtrachan makes preparation againſt him. He betakes himſelf to flight and reconciles himſelf with the Czar. The Incredible Riches and coſtly Attire of the Coſacks, The Perſon of Stenko Radſin deſcribed. The meeting and diſcourſe of the Author with Stenko Radzin. He keeps a Perſian Princeſs for his Concubine, which he throws with his own hand into the Wolga. His Puniſhment for Adultery. Pag. 183.

CHAP. XIV. Stenko returns back and is followed by many Ruſſes, but oppoſed by an Order from Pſoforoski, which Stenko diſobeys. He returns again with a greater Power. The Waywode of Aſtrachan ſends out a Fleet againſt him, which ſhamefully yields. The Officers murthered. A great Perplexity at Aſtrachan. Power and Aw of Stenko. His cruelty and Pride. His Legates are devoured of Dogs in Perſia. Kumuskinka ſurrendred by Treachery Pag. 189.

CHAP. XV. The Animoſities and Tumults in Aſtrachan. Stariza taken in by the Coſacks. A Fleet ſent out againſt them. The Coſacks win Tzarnojar. The Ruſsian Fleet yields to the Coſaks. The great Inſolency and boldneſs of the Mobile of Aſtrachan. The valour of the Waywod or Governour. Adviſed to abſcond or abſent himſelf, which i [...] put in practice. Pag. 193.

CHAP. XVI. They fall down the Wolga, and miſs their Courſe. They touch a [...] Oetzjoege. The ſtrange manner o [...] fiſhing of the Bieloege. The great plenty of Cavear. They meet with great difficulty to gain the Caſpian Sea which at laſt they get. A deſcription of the Iſland Satyry Boggere, Ta [...] Reeds grow all along the Coaſt. A dreadfull Tempeſt. The Golden Bay heir meeting with a Tartarian Bark A deſcription of Terki. The Beginning [Page] of the Circas-Tartars; Their Perſons and Complexions deſcribed. Their Habit and way of Living. Of their Women, their Habit, Humours and Inclinations. Their Idolatry. Pag. 198.

CHAP. XVII. The Author and his Company err in their Courſe. They meet with a Coſak-Bark. A great Tempeſt. The Beginning and Limits of the Dageſtan-Tartars; Their Poſture or Frame of Body, Habit and Way of Living. They are great Plagiaries. The Barrenneſs of the Dageſtan Mountains. Another great Tempeſt. The Shallop run aſtrand and is ſpied by the Tartars, who plunder them. The ſtrange way of electing the Dageſtan Kings. They are aſſailed by another Company who raviſh the Woman in preſence of her Husband, and convert them all to Slaves. The Author tortured to detect his Companions, which he manfully endures. They are brought before the Oſmyn, and chained. Pag. 206.

CHAP. XVIII. The Captivs take their leavs of each other. The great Orchard near Tzurbag. Their Arrival at Urwan. Situation of Mount Ararat. An accidental meeting with ſome Carmelite Friars. The Author inſiſted upon to undertake a Cure of a Rupture, which with much perſwaſion, he promiſes to do. His aſcent up the Mountain Ararat to the Hermites Cell, who was his Patient, which he performs in 5 days time. He undertakes and cures the Rupture. The Copy of an Atteſtation given him by the ſaid Hermite in barbarous Latin. His return down. Pag. 212.

CHAP. XIX. The Author put in Chains again: He is inſiſted upon to renounce the Chriſtian Faith and become Mahometan; Divers means to that end put in practiſe by way of Trial. The great gain of warm Baths. The Author taken out of Chains. He is ſold to a Perſian. The Situation of the Caſpian Sea. Great Whirlpools in the Bay of Gilan. A diſcourſe about the Silktrade. A further Deſcription of the Caſpian Sea, &c. Pag. 218.

CHAP. XX. A Deſcription of Derbent: it's Walls. The Sultans Court. Very old Ruins. Divers Watch-towers. Multiplicity of Sepulchrets without Derbent. Their Slave-market. The Author ſold again. His Patron married with a Poliſh Woman and runs into Danger of his Life. The Intention of his Patroneſs in running away from her Husband and taking the Author with her. Two of Mr. Struys's Companions come to Derbent. How they made their eſcape from the Tartars. [Page] The great Inclination of the Sultan of Derbent to the Hollanders. A Device put in practiſe to ſet one of the Authors Companions at Liberty. The Prince takes the Wife of Brak for his own. Brak makes his eſcape. Pag. 225.

CHAP. XXI. The great difficulty of getting Wood without Derbent. The Author and his company aſſailed by Robbers two ſeveral times. The kind nature of his Patron. They travel to Scamachy. The Hill Barmach, The Pit of Naphta. Arrival at Scamachy. A Deſcription of that City. A great Earthquake at Scamachy. Abundance of men misfortunatly killed. The Author meets with 2 Franciſcan Friars: A rehearſal of ſome part of their Diſcourſe: their Zeal to get him out of the Service of a Mahometan. Advice given him by his Patron. He comes firſt into the Service of the Poliſh Ambaſſadour. Pag. 235.

CHAP. XXII. The Hatred and Churliſhneſs of the Ambaſſadour againſt the Poliſh Gentry. A Poliſh Gentleman murthered in his bed. The pitiful caſe and condition of the Polanders, who were in the Retinue of the Legate. The Ambaſſadours Greedineſs. He indeavours to turn Mahometan, The Authors intention to make his eſcape. Captain Butler and others of his old acquaintance come to Scamachi, where they do what they can for the Captivs. The Ambaſſadors Brother goes for Iſpahan, where he deſires to be admitted as a Mahometan, but is not received, William the Maſters Mate of the Ship Eagle comes to Scamachi. A great Earth-quake. Conſecration of Water among the Armenian Chriſtians. A great concourſe of People, and remarkable Ceremonies.

CHAP. XXIII. The Ambaſſadours Siſter goes to Tafflis, and with her the Poliſh Chirurgeon. The Corps of an Indian burn'd with a Chriſtian ſhe-ſlave. The Woman having taken in a Potion to provoke ſleep, is alſo caſt into the furnace. Two Men murthered at Scamachi, and a tumult thereupon. Strange Geremonies about the Dead. The Chans ſon is preſented with a Kolotan, or Robe of Favour, and one of the Kings Wives. A man ſtruck dead with ſtaves. A fearful Earth-quake. The Chan alſo receives a Robe of Favour, and a Wife. Pompous Solemnities at the delivery of the ſame. He receives the Princeſs. New Tidings from Ruſsia. The Ambaſſador commanded by the King of Perſia to return for Poland; but makes his excuſe. The miſerable Eſtate of the Poliſh Gentry. Theft committed in the Ambaſſadors Palace. A man tortured that was innocent. [Page] The Poliſh Chirurgeon fortunatly married at Tafflis. Another Corps of an Indian burned with a living Woman. The great kindneſs of Hadſy Biram to the Author. His bad entertainment with the Ambaſſador. Pag. 249.

CHAP. XXIV. The manner of Celebrating New years day among the Perſians. Advice from Boynak: from Derbent. Fire-balls fall from the Sky. Five Hundred beautiful Damoſels ſought up for the Scach, or Sophy of Perſia. A quaint mean by which a Merchant ſaves his Daughter. The Author writes to Smarna. A Chieftain of the Coſaks brought into Scamachy; and is compelled to carry 3 of his Companions Heads in a Bag to Iſpahan, where he is upon promiſe of detecting ſomthing of weight ſet at Liberty. A Perſian murthered by a drunken Georgian. The murtherer executed by the Brother of the murthered Party. A horrible Self-murther committed by ſeveral Perſons at a Wedding. A great Feaſt celebrated in memory of Hoſſeyn the 3d Son of Ali. A terrible Earth-quake. The Chans Son dies and is interred. Pag. 257.

CHAP. XXV. News from Aſtrachan. A Woman and Adultereſs taken in the Fact. A Young Gentleman caned to death by Order of the Prince and Complaint of his Father. Another put to the ſame death. One of the Authors Companions goes for Iſpahan, Hail-ſtones as big as Eggs. The Author and a Venetian entertained in an Armenian Monaſtery. A Woman taken in Adultery, for which ſhe is ſurrendred up to the Will and Power of her Husband, who fleas her alive, nails up her Skin upon the Wall, and throws her Carcaſe out into the ſtreet. The great Jealouſie of the Perſians. The male Children about the Court gelded. The great Slave-market at Scamachy. The unnatural cuſtom of the Georgians, The Ambaſſadour receives a Charge to depart. Pag. 267.

CHAP. XXVI. A dreadfull Tempeſt. Great Balls of Fire fall upon the Earth. A moſt fearful Deluge, whereby Houſes, Men and abundance of Cattel are carried away. The Chan receivs another Robe of Favour. The Offerings of the Banjans, for the Fowl and Fiſh. The Religious Exerciſe of the Perſian Women. The Author's Diſcourſe with the Chan. The Author meets with one of the Tartars who had made him Slave. He gets out of the ſervice of the Polish Ambaſſador. The great Bounty and kindneſs of his Patron Hadzi Biram, and of Altine his Patroneſs. One of his Company, made free. Pag. 273.

CHAP. XXVII. Their departure out of Scamachi. [Page] The Countrey about Kaſily deſcribed and the manner of living of the Inhabitants. A Deſcription of the River Araxex. The Heath of Mokan, whither all the Banditti and Mutinous Perſons have recourſe. Abundance of Tortoiſes near Balharu. The Poverty, yet contented Life of the People and Inhabitants there about. The Author ſet upon by Robbers. The Carravan Aſſailed and Plundered. A famous ſtone Bridge. The ſepulchre of Zeyde Tzeybrail. Arrival at Ardebil. The Situation of that Town. The bitter Cold. Great and raging Whirl-winds. Extraordinary good Wheat. The great Toll and Duty paid for Sheep. Seven and Fifty Towns within the Juriſdiction of Ardebil. A Deſcription of the City, of it's Streets, and of the Street of Strumpets, who are Poëteſſes and ordained to compoſe Hymns of Praiſe to the name of the Great Aly, Free Places within the City. The Markets and Shops. Sumptuous Mezids and Chappels. Pag. 281.

CHAP. XXVIII. Hadzi Byram goes to perform his Religious Duties at the Sepulchre of Zeyde Tzebrail. The Author begs of his Lord that he may be Spectator of the Ceremonies, which at laſt after many intreaties is granted. A Deſcription of that noble Mauſoleum. Famous Baths in Ardebil. The ſulphurous Baths whither the Author accompanies his Patron. The manner of uſing thoſe Baths. The ſtupendious and ſumptuous Sepulchre of Scach Sephy deſcribed. The great Zeal and Devotion of Hadzi Byram. The Oratory, or Houſe of Prayer, where (as they ſay) Schach Sephy prayed and faſted for 40 Days togeher without Intermiſſion, uſing only a Cup of Water every day. Doors covered with Plates of Gold by Schach Abas. The Library, and Repoſitory of the Utenſils for the Kings Table. The Garden or Yard where the Perſian Kings lie interred. The names of the 12 Kings that lie there buried. The Revenues belonging to this Meſar, or Sepulchre. Som faſt Revenues. Ardebil a famous Mart. Pag. 290.

CHAP. XXIX. The Author taken for a Perſian, which gave him occaſion to ſee all that was worthy of remark. The Caravan leavs Ardebil, and goes over the famous Mountain Taurus. The Head of the River Kiſiloſeyn. Bad and uneaſy Travelling by reaſon of ſteep Rocks. Peril of Robbers. Arrival at Sultanie. Keydar Pey-Amber, a wonderfull high Mountain it's Situation, and by whom built. Emarath, the Noble Palace of King Choddabende. The Temple of Schach Iſmaël. The preſent decaying State of Sultany. The Author ſhorn and habituated after the Perſian Manner. Pleaſant Dales and Valleys. Arrival at Caſwin. The Situation of that [Page] Place. The Court of Schach Tames. The Place of Convention, or Exchange of Whores. The Common Place of Sepulture and Metzid of of Scach Beſſade, the Son of Hoſseyn, by which the Perſians ſwear. The Offering of a Camel. Pag. 298.

CHAP. XXX. Departure from Caſwin. Arrival at Saba, and an account of the Condition of that Town. The Earth red and barren by the Curſe of Mahomet. They arrive at Kom, with a Deſcription of that Place. Melons of a very fragrant and lovely ſmell. A ſtrange kind of Cucumbers. Khom the Staple for Weapons. The People addicted to Thievery. The Author's combat with a Greek Renegado Departure out of Khom. Arrival at Kaſchan. Its Situation. The People, and their way of Living and Negotiation. Noble Carawanſeras; or Houſes of Entertainment. Many Gold-and Silk-Cloth Weevers. A ſort of great and venemous Scorpion and a kind of fell Spiders, which are a powerfull venom, with the ſtrange manner of Cure for the ſame. Their Arrival at Natens. A Faulcon fights and conquers an Eagle. Pag. 307.

CHAP. XXXI. Arrival at Iſpahan. Their Reception with the Dutch Reſident. A Relation of the Stability of Anthony Munſter, who was urged to imbrace Mahometaniſm: his Death and Burial. The Manner and Situation of the Dutch Lodge. The Situation of Iſpahan, it's Greatneſs: Rivers running thrô the ſame. The Aque-duct, a mighty work of Schach Abas. The Streets of Iſpahan. Maydan and Baſar. Fair Arches and Galleries. The Sumptuous Meſtzid of Schach Abas. Dowlet- or Schach-Chane, the Royal Pallace. The Divan-Chane, or Court of Juſtice. The Hieram Chane, or Palace of the Kings Concubines. Allycarpi a Sanctuary, or place of Refuge. Carawanſeras, Taverns. Cahwae Chane, Coffee-Houſes. Perſian Saints and Philoſophers. Remal and Falkil, two ſorts of Sooth-ſayers. Their ſtrange and ridiculous way of preſaging. The Kayſery or Gallerie of Shops. Pag. 313.

CHAP. XXXII. Taberik Kale the Treaſurie of the Kingdom. The Suburbs of Iſpahan. Tziulfa, a place where the Armenian Chriſtians have their Reſidence. Tabriſabath. Haſſenabath. Kebrabath, ſo called from Kebber, Perſians that are ſtill Pagans. Tzarbag. The Nature of the Perſians. Property of the Land. Celebration of the Epiphany by the Armenian Chriſtians. Pag. 321.

CHAP. XXXIII. The great Civility of Hadſi Biram. The Authors Departure out of Iſpahan. [Page] Their incommodous Travelling thrô the Snow. Wells and Pits of Water abounding with Fiſh. They are much incommodated in their Travailing. The Caravan aſſailed by Robbers. Their Superſtitious horrour of Swines Fleſh. Sepulchre of Schach Solyman's Mother. The Sepulchre of Noah, his Wife, Children, and Childrens Children. Tzilminar. The Pompous Relicts and Ruins of the famous Perſepolis, and the noble Fort thereof. The Statue of Ruſtan, a Perſian Champion. Pag. 327.

CHAP. XXXIV. Arrival at Scyras. They meet with ſom Carmelites. The baſe dealings of thoſe of the Caravan. The Author meets with the Theef that had pillaged him. Mr. Struys well entertained by a French Chirurgeon. A Deſcription of Scyras. Divers Meſtzids, or Sepulchres. The Pallace of the Chan. Excellent Wine about Scyras. Noble Orchards. Departure from Scyras. The Special Bounty of the Carmelites. and the French Chirurgeon. Dates plentiful and cheap. How the Date-trees are propagated. Arrival at Scharim. They meet a Caravan. Aſſailed by night of 30 Robbers, who kill 5 Men of the Company, and at laſt by a unanimous continuance of the Caravan force them to yield. The Robbers beg Quarter which is refuſed. They ſuffer themſelvs to be bound; are diverſly tortured and diſpatched Great plenty of Partridges. Pag. 336.

CHAP. XXXV. The incommodous Travelling over Mountains. They com into an Inn (or Carawanſera) where they are well entertained. Arrival at Lar. A Deſcription of that Town. The Unwholſomneſs of the Air and wate [...] there. The Inhabitants given to Hoſpitality and Lovers of all kinds of Diſcipline and Science. Mummay Kobas, a pretious Balſam. Remarkable Monuments of Robbers executed Departure from Lar. They meet with another Troop of Robbers▪ whereof 7 are killed. They are overtaken by Monſr. Kaſenbroot, Their Arrival a [...] Gamron. Pag. 344

CHAP. XXXVI. A Deſcription of Gamron, or Bendar, and the Etamology. The grea [...] Traffic with all Nations. Unwholſomneſs of the Air, and Heat at Gamron. Palepunſhen, an unwholſom Drink how made. The Earth dry and barren. Fertility of Kiſmiſch. Of the Inhabitants of Gamron. A wonderfu [...] Tree growing without the City. A [...] Indian (reputed) Saint. The beſt ſeaſo [...] for ſtrangers to com and Traffic a [...] Gamron. Merchandiſe brought thithe [...] by the Engliſh. The Engliſh receiv To with the Schach. The Hollanders trad [...] without paying Toll. The Autho [...] [Page] falls very ſick and in deſpair of Recovery. The kindneſs and bounty of L. van Akerſloot to him. He recovers. Set ſail from Gamron. Arrival at Maſchate and a Deſcription of that Town. The violent Heat about Maſchate which renders the Air very unwholſom. Their Departure from Maſkate. Arrival at Batavia. The Author hires himſelf for Sailmaker. Comes with 7 Ships before Bantham. Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope. Pag. 349.

CHAP. XXXVII. Their Departure from the Cape of Good Hope. The Ship Europa taken by the Engliſh. The Engliſh take the Iſland of St. Helena, and 2 Dutch Ships more. The Author warns the reſt of the Ships. Three Dutch Ships ſcape a ſcouring. Arrival at Aſcenſion. Abundance of Tortoiſes on that Iſland. A Deſcription of the ſaid Iſland. It's Unfruitfullneſs and want of freſh water. A Debate held among the Engliſh to leav the Dutch upon the Iſland. Departure from Aſcenſion. Arrival at Kingſale in Ireland. Their Departure from thence, Arrival at Briſtol and finally at Home. Pag. 354.

DIRECTIONS For the BOOK BINDER, How to place the PLATES.

[Page]

The City Judia. Pag. 27

The Maſſacring of the Mandorins and great Perſonages in Syam. Pag. 45

Tenedos. Pag. 91

Pathmos. Pag. 93

Delos, or Delphos. Pag. 110

Aſtrachan. Pag. 177

Radzin throwing the Perſian Lady into the Wolga, Pag. 187

Sturgeon-taking. Pag. 199

The Tartars on Horſeback. Pag. 204

Mount Ararat. Pag. 214

The Card of the Caſpian Sea. Pag. 222

The City Scamachy in Perſia. Pag. 239

The manner of bringing the Kings Concubines in Perſia to Court. Pag. 260

A Woman flea'd alive. Pag. 270

Iſpahan. Pag. 316

Perſepolis. Pag. 332

Scyras, or Sieras. Pag. 338

Gammeron. Pag. 35 [...]

Moſchate. Pag. 352

The Maſſacre in Aſtrachan. Pag. 360

THE Perillous and moſt Unhappy TRAVELS of JOHN STRUYS, Through Italy, Turky, Perſia, Tartary, Eaſt-India, Moſcovia, &c.

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CHAP. I. The firſt Occaſion of the Authors going to Travel. A Sea-Storm. Arrival at Gibralter, at Genua, with it's Deſcription, at Velez Malaga. Reſcontre with 9 Corſairs of Algiers. Arrival at Boa Viſta. A Deſcription of the Salt Iſlands, Ilha Mayo, Ilha del Fuogo, St. Jago and Ilha del Brava. Proper Climat of thoſe Iſles. Arrival at Sierra Liones; The great Incivilitie of the King, allured to come aboard, fettered, and afterward thrown over board, A Deſcription of Sierra Liones.

WEll worthy of remark is that Obſervation of a modern Sage, Deſpair drives a man either to the Camp, or a Convent: With no leſs reaſon may we add, That the inſubid Reſolutions and Praecipitance of youth, lead either to illicit Arts, or Travel: which laſt was a Misfortune fatal to my ſelf. My Fathers ſole Care was to ſee me train'd up, in ſome laudable Vocation, or other; whereby I might for the future be in a capacity to acquire my neceſſary ſuſtenance, without being burthenſom to my Relations, or the uſe of any diſhonourable Mean, or Practiſe: And [Page] to that end put me out to a Sail-maker.DEC. 1647. He now perceiving ſome hopeful Proſpect of Good in my Undertakings, was ever ſtudious to give me all the Incouragement he could on his part; and to ſhow the Affection incumbent on a Parent, reſtrain'd me, as far as in him lay, from going abroad, or aſſociating my ſelf with ſuch Company, as might be obnoxious, or deſtructive to thoſe good Maxims he had given me: But various are the Tempers and Diſpoſitions of Youth; and ſometimes their frame of ſpirit ſo occult, that the piercing Judgements of riper Years cannot ſound it, although it were with the Eies of Eagles.

Set ſail from Texel.My Father, whoſe Rigour was ſomewhat more than tolerable, was never remiſs in reprehending me for any noted Vice; ſo that for ſome bad deportment he once took occaſion to Chaſtiſe me, and that with ſuch ſeverity, that I reſolved to take my leave both of him, and my native Land. At that time there were two Ships fitted out, and bound for Genua: the one was called, The St. John Baptiſt, Henry Chriſtanſz. of Amſterdam Maſter, the other, The St. Bernard, Iohn Benning of VVeſep Vice-Commander, and Herman Voogd of Schiedam Maſter; Over both theſe Ships was Mr. Iohn Maas of Dunkirk, as Upper-Commander. The former was mounted with 28 Guns, the latter carried 26. I hired my ſelf aboard the St. I. Baptiſt for Under-Sailmaker, being then about 17 years old, never troubling my ſelf either whither we were bound, or how long we were to be out.

On the 26 of December 1647. By Gods good Conduct, we ſet Sail, from the Texel, but were hardly got without the Gaats, ere we found that our Ships were not duly poiz'd, and thereupon were fain to Tack about, and put in at the Texel again, where we unloaded part of the Ships-burthen, and took in a conſiderable quantity of Pewter, ſome Boxes of Quickſilver, and other ponderous Materials, to Ballaſt us well at the Keel; which when we had done and all ready, we ſet out the ſecond time, that was upon the 4 day of Ianuary, January, 1648. 1648, and with a brave Wind, we paſſed the Spaniards Gat, driven with ſome Shoals of Ice (it being then Froſty weather) Seawards.

On the 10 of Ianuary we were forced by a contrary wind to put in at the Downs; where after two days aboad, we weighed anchor, having both Wind and Weather favourable. But ſoon after by a [Page] heavy Storm and rough Sea,FEBR. 1648. Storm at Sea. we were forced again to put into ſome other Harbour; which we did at the Iſle of VVight, & there we ſtay'd till the 25th when the Weather began to grow more moderate, and the high Winds abated.

Under hopes that this good Weather would continue we fet ſail, but were no ſooner out of the Bay, before the Weather changed, and we now the third time forc'd to look out for a Harbour.

On the 6 of February we came to Anchor at Portland, where we road three days, and then ſet ſail directly for the Bay of Gibralter, where we arrived on the 10th of that moneth. The next day with a brisk gale we entred the Straits, and with a conſtant and favourable wind, made Genua in 15 days, where arriving we dropp'd Anchor behind the Mold.

On the 32th we got Prattica, Arrival de Genua. and Licence to unload both the Ships; which done the Men were paid off, and diſmiſs'd. The Ships, as we ſaid before, were ſold to the Duke of Genua, which he furniſhed with Proviſion of Victuals, Powder, Shot and other Ammunition, for 2 years. Aboard each Ship were a Hundred Dutch taken into ſervice, the reſt for the moſt part Italians, amongſt which were a few of the Banditti. Here I hired my ſelf for Upper-Sailmaker, and had 18 Livers per Moneth; although neither I, nor any elſe that went before the Maſt, knew whither, or upon what Deſign.

Having now regain'd my liberty, I long'd to ſatisfy my curioſity in taking a view of the Town, with what elſe was worthy of remark. Genua is ſeated on the Sea ſide,Deſcription of Genua. having a very commodious and complete Haven, on the South facing the Co [...]ſt of Affrica. The City is built partly on montanous and hilly ground, and partly on a Level, ſeated between two velleys; and is computed to be abut 6 Italian Miles in circumference, being very well and cloſe built, munited with ſtrong Walls, ſufficient enough to reſiſt a ſmall Attacque; but would not ſecure the Town in a long and durable Siege; or violent Storms, without the Militia. Their Militia conſiſts of ſome Dutch and Corſican Companies, together with a few ſmall Troops of Horſe, which are conſtantly in motion, either on the Sea-ſide, or thro the City, to prevent, if need require, any ſilent Attacque, and ſuppreſs Mutinies; as alſo to ſecure the Coaſts from Turkiſh and other Pyrats, which ſometimes come aſhoar in their Shalops, to get Slaves [Page] and Spoil. They have alwaies four Galleys ready upon all Occaſions, for Defence of the Havens; beſides a conſiderable number more, which they have in their Arſenal, in good equippage; theſe are often imployed as Auxiliaries for the Venetians, againſt the Turks. On the Sea-ſide ſtands a Watch-Tower, on which by night they ſet a Beacon; and juſt at the Entrance of the Haven, ſtands a huge piece of Ordnance, mounted upon a Carriage, continually guarded with a Sentinel. The Dukes Perſon is guarded with a Body of 500 Soldiers, who with their Colonel have a place allotted them in the Palace. The City is generally well built with ſtately Houſes and magnificent Structures, more eſpecially on that ſide which is ſeated near the Sea: having beſides the more eminent Hoſtels and Public Buildings, 30 fair Pariſh Churches, of which that dedicated to St. Laurence claims the priority, as Cathedral. In the Church dedicated to the H. Euchariſt,Genua. they ſhow'd us a Key made of an Emerald, being of the unuſual bignes that [...]t's worth may not be computed. Coming to the Church of St. Bartholomew, we ſaw a handkercheif, with which they told us our Saviour wiped the ſweat from his face, and (as they ſay) has done abundance of Miracles. The City is very populous, their Merchants rich and numerous; and their Manufactury alſo very conſiderable, eſpecially in Velvets, there being according to the relation given us; above 8000 Looms in the Town ſo that conſidering the Magnificency of Building, the Riches of her Merchants, Commodiouſneſs of Situation, and Splendor of her Court and Palace, may be reckoned as a Town of the firſt Magnitude.

Velez Malaga.On the 12 of April we ſet ſail, directing our courſe for Velez Malaga, where on the 15 we arrived. On the 18 we hoiſed ſail, and made for Malaga, and on the 24 came to caſt anchor in the Bay; where almoſt all the Banditti were ſet aſhoar. Here we took in a hundred Pipes of Wine, with candied Fruits and other Refreſhments for the ſick.

On the 29 of May we weighed Anchor, and with a briſk gale of Wind reached the Straits mouth on the 2 of Iune. When we were paſt Gibralter, we ſteer'd our Courſe towards the Salt Iſlands, which was deſigned for another place of Refreſhment, from whence we gathered that, our Voyage muſt needs be longer than at firſt we thought; for till then none aboard the ſhip (unleſs the Officers) [Page] knew whither we were bound,JUNE, 164 [...]. or upon what account we were ſent out.

On the fourth of Iune, we met with 9 Turkiſh Men of War, about the 3d. Watch in the night, who Hail'd us, asking, from whence our ſhip, we anſwered, From Genua, and asked them, From whence they were: they made anſwer, From Argiers. Our Commander hearing that unwelcome Eccho, was not a little alarm'd, and could have wiſh'd himſelf at a further diſtance; however he reſolves to exchange a ball or two with them by break of day; and in order thereto gets all in a readineſs; commands every man to his Poſt, and gave us all the courage he could by his own Example. The Corſairs who although better man'd and mounted than we,Arrival at Boa Viſta. had no great ſtomach to go ſo early to breakfaſt, for obſerving ſuch marks of Courage in our Officers, and that they were abſolutely reſolved to fight'um, made all the ſail they could, and left us.

On the 14 we paſs'd the Flemmiſh Iſlands, and on the 6 of July, we arrived at Boa Viſta, where we came to Anchor in the Bay. On this Iſland were ſeveral of the Banditti, who brought us ſuch Proviſion as they had aboard: we took in alſo ten boats of ſalt. About this Iſland is ſuch plenty of Fiſh that at one draught we got 1500 Corcoads and Salmon-Fry.

Boa Viſta is one of thoſe Iſlands, which are called Cabo Verdo Iſlands,Deſcription of the Sale Islands. having obtained that appellation, from it's delectable proſpect from the Seaward, and lies 7 leagues to the northward of Ilha del Sal: and is reckoned to be about 20 leagues in circumference, ſtretched out in length South-eaſt and North-weſt. That part which lies near the ſea is all ſandy and hilly ground, but within altogether montanous and high land. On the north end is a long Bank near half a league in length, which repelleth the billows of the ſea with great violence. There are yet beſides this ſeveral other Foords, which are often the occaſion of Shipwrack. On the South is alſo another, where the Rocks ſometimes appear above water,The Iſland Majo. and points out towards the Eaſt, and E. and by North. The beſt and ſafeſt place to come to Anchor in, is at the Southweſt Point, where is a very commodious Road for Ships of the greateſt burthen, having at leſt 16 or 17 fathom Water, and a fine ſandy ground.

In this Road we lay at anchor 6 days, and then ſet ſail for Majo, [Page] St. Iago, JULY 1648. Fuogo and Brava; which are the neareſt Iſlands to Boa Viſta.

The Iſland Majo.The Iſland Majo lies about nine leagues S. S. W. or rather mo [...] Weſterly, from Boa Viſta, and is the ſmalleſt of all the reſt, being about 7 leagues round. Within land are ſeveral ſteep hills, and on the North a Plain, about a league in breadth from whence reaches out a long Bank towards the North-eaſt, and another towards the Weſt, which cauſe impetuous Breaches of the Sea, and conſequently great danger for Ships that ſail that way. The Iſland is almoſt round in circumference, having its breadth and length almoſt equal, and is full of ſmall Capes or Promontories, which make ſo many Inlets. The common Road belonging to this Iſland, is on the South-weſt Coaſt, where you have 15 and 16 fathom Water, and a ſandy ground; having the Weſtern point of the Iſland at N. and by W. and another Point at E. S. E. and the South end of St. Iago S. W. On the North ſide of the Iſland, behind a litle black Cape, lies a ſmall Bay, or Road for Anchorage, at 5 or 6 fathom water, and upon the loweſt point, on the Eaſt, is a Village of 10 or 12 houſes. This Iſland is very rocky, high and dry, having litle graſs upon it but what grows in the clefts of the Rocks. It is alſo very barren of Fruit, neither Lemmons nor Oranges will like there; nor no other fruit whatſoever, unles ſigs, and thoſe, by reaſon of the drought of the Seaſon and Ground, ſeldom ever come to maturity, or return to profit. There are in this Iſland ſome Cotton-trees, and good plenty of Goats, ſo that there are many thouſands of thoſe Hides tranſported yearly from hence. There are alſo ſome wild Horſes, Kine and Aſſes; good plenty of Fowl, as Patridge, Heathhens, Buſtards, Wild-geeſe, and other Fowl, not known with us in Europe.

There are alſo many Saltpans on this Iſland, where the Salt by the Ground Water, and the Ingreſs of the Sea, with the help of the Sun, is well concreted, yet is ſomewhat too yellow in colour. The Inhabitants are a mixt folk, of Negros, and others, who follow Goat hunting, uſing Wolves in ſtead of Dogs. Some alſo follow the Fiſhing trade, and find great plenty of A kind of Seabream. Cyprins, Dorades, and other Fiſh.

St. Jago.St. Iago is the greateſt and chief of the Cabo Verdo Iſlands, being about 12 leagues in length, lying South-Eaſt and North-weſt: The [Page] South-eaſt Cape thereof hath the Road of the Iſland Majo on the Weſt, and W. and by N. about 5 leagues diſtant. The high Land of St. Iago lies from the Road of Majo directly Weſt, but the middle thereof South-weſt from Boa Viſta, or rather more Weſterly; and from the Salt Iſland S. W. and by S. about 25 Leagues. From the South-weſt Angle, the coaſt ſtretches it ſelf forth 2 leagues South-weſt, where there is a ſmall Hamlet, called Praye, ſituated in a commodious place, between two Hills, and environed with 2 Rivers; which running into the Sea, do make two handſom Bays, one whereof is called Porto de Praye, and has room enough to contain an hundred Ships, which may ſafely ride at Anchor, without damnifying each other, having 14 fathom water, and ſhot-free from Land, as alſo the benefit of a ſmall Iſland, which breaks off the wind. Sailing paſt Porto de Praye, before you come at the Town, is a Cape, or ſmall Promontory, which the Portugeezes call Capo de Tubarao: On the Weſt whereof is another Bay, called Porto de Ribeirra Corea, which alſo is very fitly ſeated between two Hills, and a River that runs through the midle, riſing from a fountain, about 2 leagues from thence, and diſgorging it ſelf into the Sea, by a mouth about a Bowſhot in breadth. In the North is alſo another Haven called St. Mary. On the Iſland St. Iago are yet two Towns of note, whereof the one is called St. Thomas, very well ſeated; the other St. Iago, or St. Iames, which is built upon a riſing Ground: This is the Metropolis of all the Towns of theſe Iſlands, where is alſo the Reſidence and Palace of their Biſhop. Towards the Weſt, on an Angle of the Iſland is a Fortreſs, two leagues from Porto de Praye, where Ships come to anchor; and North-weſt from this Angle another Haven; known by the name of Porto de Caniſos.

This Iſland is very fertile, and abounds with fruit of ſeveral kinds, as on each ſide the Rio de Corea grow great plenty of Cocos, Oranges, Citrons, & other Fruit-trees, as alſo ſome Cedars. Beſides this, it affoards good ſtore of Rice, Maïs, and other grain, as alſo Cattel both for work and ſlaughter.

Ilha del Fuogo, or, The Iſle of Fire, probably has that name from one of it's Mountains, which continually ſends forthflames,Ilha del Fuogo. by ſome inteſtin Fire. It lies in 14 degr. 20 min. Northerly Latitude, and 12 leagues from the South-weſt point of St. Iago. North-weſt, [Page] on the Weſt-ſide,JULY, 1670. is a Bay, and a ſmall caſtle ſeated at the foot of a hill: but the violent courſe of the ſtream, renders the haven unapt to receive any Shipping. Thoſe that would enter the Bay muſt ſteer their courſe to the North of this Iſland, and ſo about.

About 4 leagues South-weſt of Ilha del Fuogo, lies Ilha del Brava, that is, VVild, or Deſert Iſland, with two or three ſmall Iſlands, on the North thereof. On the Weſt-ſide is a Creek, very convenient for ſuch as have occaſion to take in water: but the beſt haven is on the South-eaſt ſide where it is 15 fathom deep, and a Ship of the greateſt burthen may come to anchor cloſe to the Kay. Above this Harbour is a Hermitage, and a Village very well peopled. This Iſland is alſo fruitfull enough, having good ſtore of figs, Mulberrys, Water-Melons, and Indian wheat, but far inferiour to Mayo and St Iago for cattel.

The Air of theſe Iſlands is generally unwholſom, ſo that the inhabitants are very ſubject to Feavers, Aches and Fluxes. Theſe Iſlands lying between the Aequator and the Tropic of Cancer, affoard the People two Summers every year, the Sun paſſing twice directly over their heads. When the ſun enters into Cancer, which is in the end of Iune, the ſeaſon is very intemperate, with Storms, Winds, Thunder and Lightning, continuing ſo till the midle of October; the [...] the Portugueezes call the Rain moneths. They have certain tokens, whereby they know when this Seaſon approaches, as, high Southe [...] ly Winds which blow along the Coaſt, and the Salt, which begin to diſſolve, with the Billows rolling out of the Sea.

On the 14 we left the Salt Islands, and ſet ſail, for Sierra Liones and made land, on the 2d of Auguſt, hearing at a great diſtance the Wind roaring from the Mountains, which by the reaſon of their Concavity, do make a great buzzing when it blows hard, that perhaps has given them the name of Sierra Liones, or Lioneſs Mountai [...] A litle before the evening we came with our Boat cloſe to the ſhore where we heard a moſt terrible Noiſe, occaſioned by an impetuou [...] and continual beating of the billows through the cleft of a Rock which was ſo loud that we could hardly hear one another ſpea [...] Sierra Liones takes it's beginning from Cabo de Virgin, and ſtretches [...] ſelf ſo far out as Cabo Tagrin, or Lede, which is alſo by ſome call [...] [Page] Cabo de Sierra Liones, JULY 1648. lying in 8 Degr. and 13 Min. Northerly Latitude; and by reaſon of it's height, is eaſily diſtinguiſhed from that Continent, which lies to the Northward of this Promontory; the more becauſe it reaches further Seaward. The South, and South and by E. part of this Land lies toward the Sea, and is high and hilly, but the land of the Cape towards the North, for the moſt part level and marſhy. There are 13 Rivulets which coming from the Land, run through theſe Mountains, and ſo empty themſelves in the Ocean, and have on their banks plenty of Fruit-trees, as Oranges, Pome-Citrons, and the like.

On the 3 of Auguſt we arrived in the Bay of Sierra Liones. Immediately upon our arriving there, the Commander ſent the Shallop aſhoar, and ſuch perſons as he did think fit, with Preſents for the King, which were 5 Barrs of Iron, a Barrel of Brandy, and another of Spaniſh Wine.

Thoſe men that were nominated to deliver the Preſents, were courteouſly received by the King and his Court. We could not perceive any Mark of Superiority, or Grandour in the Prince, which might diſtinguiſh him from his Subjects, no more than in Mr. Mayor of Stratford, from his Worſhipfull Brethren, the Aldermen. Yet found him much to vary from ſome other Soveraign Potentates who enrich themſelves at the Coſt and Penury of their Vaſſals. The King and his Folk were equally inſatiable and covetous; for ſo ſoon as the King had received the Preſent, he deſired as much more, which the Commander was content to ſend him, that he might have the freedom to take in Water, and Wood for Fewel, as alſo to provide our ſelves with Oranges, Lemmons, and other Refreſhments. The Inhabitants, which are called Caffers, ſhew'd us no ſmall Friendſhip; for, ſo long as our Penny laſted, they never faild of a Pater noſter, bringing us every day good ſtore of Fruit. When the King had received the double Preſent, he inſiſted upon twice as much more, before he would admitt of our coming aſhoar. This great incivility ſo inraged the Commander, that he reſolved to be revenged upon him; and purſuant thereto ſent the Long-boat aſhoar to entreat him to come aboard, where he ſhould receive what his King ſhip deſired. The credulous Barbarian, made no long pauſe [Page] in the matter;JUNE, 1648. but preſently, with a certain number of his Gentry, ſtept into the Boat, and ſo were brought aboard. But his Retinue being too numerous, the Commander having regard to our ſafety, would not permit above 5 or 6 to come aboard. The King was no ſooner got aboard, but he ran in all haſt to the Great Cabin, in hopes of ſome ample Gift; but much miſtaken,The King of Sierra Liones fettered, and threatned to be hanged. for the Commander gave order that he ſhould be fetter'd, which was accordingly done, and 4 men appointed to attend him. The King was hereat mainly altered, but afterward much more, when he ſaw the Commander intended to hang him at the Yards arm, which had certainly been had not the Maſter of the Ship undertaken the Office of a Mediator upon him, and made interceſſion for his Life. The Commanders wrath thus pacified, he gave order to throw him over board, which was immediately obey'd and executed, by 4 of the Ships Company, who threw him out at the Fore-caſtle Port; But he was ſo well diſciplin'd in ſwimming, that he preſently got aſhoar. His Retinue ſeeing that, with all the haſt they could, betook themſelves immediatly to their Canoes,The houſes of the Caffers pillaged; and their Orchards Spoil'd. and made as if they would do ſome prodigious Feat, or other; or at leſt obſtruct our coming aſhoar, to take in what was neceſſary. The Commander, whoſe temper was too couragious, to be daunted for a ſwarm of Flies, ſent two Boats aſhoar to fetch Water and Wood, both well Man'd and Arm'd, and in ſpite of all their Force, hew'd as much Wood, and brought as much Water, as they thought might ſerve our turn, The Commander notwithſtanding all this, was not yet content, but remanded the men and Shallops to pillage their Houſes and Orchards, and ſet the Kings Neger-houſe on fire; all which they did in a moment. The King ſeeing this, thought it high time to put himſelf in a poſture of Defence; and in order to that, muſters up all the Forces he could on a ſudden, the whole Countrey being Alarmed, and appear'd with a number of a Thouſand Canoes, or more, half of each being loaden with Faggots, whether to ſet our Ships on fire, or to uſe them for Shields, we could not determine: however having obtained our ends, we held it beſt to weigh Anchor, and proceed on our Voyage, rather than to incurr a needleſs & unprofitable Ingagement, with a Company of ſuch contemptible Schoundrels. [Page] In which Reſolution we ſet ſail, directing our Courſe for Madagaſcar.

Before we were got out of ſight of Sierra Liones, we met with a ſmall Flyboat which Traded along that Coaſt, whereof one Iohn Backer of Durgerdam was Maſter. The Maſter came and proffered his Ship and ſervice to our Commander and Vice-Admiral, to conduct us over the Foords and ſhallow Places of the Red ſea, and to make uſe of his Veſſel as an advice Yacht. But our Ship-maſter diſſwaded them to accept of his Tender, whereupon he declared that he was unwilling, and ſo declined his Favour. This Maſter had the like Reſcontre with that Kings Majeſty, and for his Churliſhneſs gave him a toſs (as he told us) out of the Cabin-port ſo that it ſeem'd a Paradox to us, that he would be ſo void of Prudence as to hazard himſelf a ſecond time, being once before in jeopardy of his Life.

Sierra Liones both in regard of its' Copiouſneſs of Fruit,Deſcription of Sierra Liones. and Plenty of Good Water is a very proper place to put in at, for Refreſhment. It abounds with A kind of plant, called alſo Milium, and Hyrſi bearing a multitude of ſmall grains, from whence it hath that name. Millets, Oranges, Lemmons, Banans, Cocos, Wild Grapes, and abundance of many other ſorts of Fruits; as alſo Sugar canes and a kind of Long pepper. It affoards, beſides Fruit-trees, good Timber, and Ingredients very uſefull in Dying; but by reaſon of our ſhort aboad, and want of opportunity to make inſpection into the Countrey, we could not inform our ſelves what Product the Land affoarded, as peculiar to it ſelf; nor to make any advantage of our Landing there, except our Refreſhment. There is good ſtore of Fiſh, and Oyſters, which ly very thick in the clefts of the Rocks, and are extraordinary large and good. 'Tis true if any be neceſſitated to put in there for freſh Water, they need not be at a loſs, for there are all along the Coaſt many choice Rivers, which are pure Rain-water, that comes from the Mountains, but in the Month of May, (the beginning of the Rain ſeaſon) it is very unwholſom and unapt for uſe, as our Maſters Mate told me who was well acquainted with thoſe Parts, and is frequently the Occaſion of Feavers, Fluxes, and other perrillous diſtempers; and not only ſo, but is ſo venemous, that where it falls upon the skin of one, who is not uſed to that Climat, will cauſe Tumors and Ulcers, and breeds a kind of worm or moth in [Page] cloaths which may ſerve for a Caveat to ſuch as ſhall be forced to make uſe of it,SEPT. 164 [...]. about that time of the year, although it be approved good, when it is ſome days old, as if the venemous property were vaniſhed with keeping. The Inhabitants are not altogether black, but tawny; and their bodies cauterized in many places with hot Irons. The tips of their Ears, and their noſes, are bored through, and hung with Jewels, which they hold for paſſing rare Ornaments. Both Men and Women go naked, and uſe no manner of Veſture ſave only a furcingle, or towel; made of the barks of Trees, which (it ſeems) for modeſty ſake, they wear about their Middle. Thoſe that inhabit thoſe parts which lie further within Land, are Cannibals (or Men-eaters) but ſuch as dwell near the Sea, more civiliz'd, and flexible to commerce with Europeans, and other Strangers. The King with whom we were concern'd, was an old, ill viſaged and homely Man, in a Garb tolerably handſom, after the Mooriſh faſhion; having alſo a kind of a hat of a grayiſh colour; but neither he, nor any of his Retinue, had either ſhoes or ſtockings, but ſuch as they came into the World with.

CHAP. II. Arrival at Madagaſcar. The remarkable Chance of the Commander, meeting with the King. The Death of the Vice Commander Benning; and the diſorders thence ariſing. Both the Ships put in a Fighting Poſture, and ready to give each other Battel. Voogt yields, and is fetter'd. The deſcription of Madagaſcar; it's Fertility, Store of Cattel; Goodneſs of their Sheep; Many kinds of Monkeys. Nature of the Inhabitants, Form, Habit, Houſe-keeping, Marriages and Funerals. Their impious cruelty over their Children. Their Religion, Policy and Warrs.

Arrival at Madagaſcar (or ſas it is by ſome called) S. LaurenceON the 13 of October we arrived at Madagaſcar, and came to Anchor in the Bay of Anton Gill. So ſoon as we had caſt Anchor we ſent forth our Boat, and put out a white Flag in token of Friendſhip; which they obſerving, did the like. But we were greatly diſmay'd, when we ſaw a great number of men running down the Hills toward us, with Bows, Arrows and Darts: ſo that we not daring to truſt our ſelves to them, concluded our ſafeſt way was to return, and row back again to our Ships; but they perceiving that, one of them cried out, Be not afraid, but come boldly to [Page] land; we will do you no harm, we give you liberty to come aſhoar.OCTO [...] 1648. Capt. Maas told us that he had been there in that Iſland before, and that a Slave of his, whom he had taught to read and write, had run away from him there, having taken his opportunity when the Ship was ready to ſet Sail; and that he had heard how the Slave was come to great Advancement, and by the Natives elected King.

So ſoon as we were got to land, we were introducted by the King himſelf, and his Attendants into his Pallace, which was in the midſt of a Sconce, reaſonably ſtrong, and environ'd with Palizados. The Houſe was hung with neat Mat-work, and the Floors covered with the ſame. The King preſently began to inquire, What for People that we were? and, to what place our Ship belong'd? for he could ſee by her Colours that we did not come out of Holland. The Commander made anſwer that we were Hollanders; but were then in the ſervice of the Duke of Genua, to whom the Ships belong'd. After they had exchanged a few Words together, the Commander aſſumed the liberty to ask him, Where he had learned to ſpeak Dutch? I have been, quoth he, formerly in Eaſt India, and was at that time a Slave to one Iohn Maas, a Marriner, and intending for Holland, we were ſurpriz'd with a diſmal Hurricano, which diſabled us of our Maſts, and made us in ſuch a Condition, that we were forced to put in here to Calk, and fit us out again; but I having no great appetite [...] proceed on our Voyage, deſerted my Maſter, when I ſaw the Ship was ready to ſail. Well (quoth the Captain) was not your name Diembro. Yes, replies the King, do you know me? Why, ſaid the Captain, do you not know Iohn Maas? The King was hereupon in a great ſtupor, but viewing him thorowly began to remember his Countenance, and with that embraced and kiſſed him. While they ſtood mute a while and ſtaring one another earneſtly on the face, both ſtupifyed at this ſtrange meeting, the King began thankfully to acknowledge, how good a Maſter our Commander had been to him, and preſented him all neceſſary Proviſion gratis: but the Commander courteouſly declined it, ſaying, He eſtemed it a ſufficient Favour to exchange Wares for Wares. The King (according to the cuſtome of that Country) preſented our men the uſe of his Wives and Concubines; who coming forth made choice of ſuch as they would [Page] have, and went aſide with them. This kind Tender was as freel [...] accepted as offered, by the greateſt part of our Ships-folk, wh [...] were not very ſhy to enter into Conjunctions with that tawny Brood but what monſtrous Complexions they afterward brought into th [...] world,The Death of Mr. John Benning, Captain of the St. Bernard. I only gueſs, ſince our aboad there could not be long. I may not ommit the fatal Difference, and Miſunderſtanding of our Offi [...]cers among themſelves, occaſioned upon the Deceaſe of Capt. Joh [...] Benning, who commanded the S. Bernard. The Chief Commande [...] Maas, together with the reſt of the Officers thought fit to p [...] Henry Chriſtians, Maſter of the St Iohn Baptiſt in his place, and Ho [...] man Voogt in the placc of H. Chriſtians;Tumults thereupon. but Voogt did not approve [...] this Tranſpoſition, and let the Chief Commander know that [...] would not abandon his Board and Right, unleſs he would fet [...] him away by force; thereupon he brought up all the Guns out [...] the Hold, and put himſelf in a Poſture of defence. The next mo [...] ning by break of Day,Both the Ships rea-ady to ſight. our Commander, with ſome of the O [...] cers deſcrying that the Red Flag was put out, aboard the St. B [...] nard, were not a litle alarm'd: immediately gave order that we ſho [...] alſo (with all poſſible expedition) put our ſelves in a Fightin [...] poſture, which was don in a moment. Our Commander unde [...] ſtanding that Vooght had ſent off a boat (with intent to fetch wate [...] ſent out the Shallop, as full of men as could well ſtand, all w [...] armed, who row'd as hard as they could till they overtook the oth [...] boat, which they brought back. The men being come aboard, t [...] Commander gave order to put them in Fetters, till he could ha [...] better information about their intention: with that the Comman [...] made as if he would lay the St. Bernard aboard, cloſing up w [...] her Bow. Harman Voogt ſeeing himſelf in a great Strait, and for w [...] of men hardly in a capacity to maintain his Pretences, was mu [...] disheartned, and after he had adviſed the matter more fully w [...] himſelf,Voogt yields and goes aboard, is clapt into Fetters. thought good to let out the Shallop, and go aboard [...] Commander, the men inceſſantly crying out, Let our Captain and M [...] return without any moleſtation, or, by Heaven and Earth, we will either ſink be ſunk: we are reſolved either to looſe our own lives in his Vindication, or, yours an Expiation, without either giving or taking Quarter. Yet notwithſtandi [...] all this, their Schipper was no ſooner come aboard but the Comman [...] gave order to bring him upō the Quarter Deck where he was made [...] [Page] hand and foot; and after him the firſt and ſecond Mate, together with the reſt of the Officers were brought up, and immediatly clapt into ſhakles. The foremaſt men ſeeing themſelves outwitted by the Commanders Politie, began to looſe their Courage, and after a mature deliberation among themſelves, concluded it the ſafeſt way to ſurrender themſelves and Ship to the Commander. This done, a Council of War was held, and the Captive Officers (Voogt himſelf only excluded) were brought into the great Cabin, where the Council, for the time being, was aſſembled, and asked which they would rather chuſe, To burn with their Ship? or, To ſerve the Commander faithfully without murmuring? They conceiving that there was no hopes of avoiding ſome ſevere Penalty, or other, which the Council, perhaps, had deſigned in caſe of their continuing refractory, chuſed the latter: and with one humbly begged pardon for their miſdemeanours, promiſing for the future not to be factious in any Uproar, or the Occaſion of Tumult. Upon theſe Supplications the Council ſat again, and came to this Reſult,Reſult of the Council of War concerning the Officers, and Ships-folk. That their former misbehaviour ſhould be connived at; but, Voogt the Maſter to continue in Irons, till we came again to Genua, where he ſhould be baniſhed upon the Galleys, during the term of life, as a condign Puniſhment for his obſtinate Rebellion. However to prevent any mutinous conſultations which might otherwiſe find opportunity, and detard our Voyage, the Ships companies were mixed and counterchanged; ſome of our men ſent aboard the St. Bernard, and others from the St. Bernard in lieu of them, brought over to us. In the mean while we recreated our ſelves with the Divertiſements of Hunting, Fiſhing and Fowling; as alſo ranging the woods, which we found ſtored with many ſorts of Fruit.

Madagaſcar is diſtant from the Coaſt of Cefale about 110 Leagues, and 44 from Moſambique. It lies in length Northeaſt and Southweſt; reaching from about 12 degr. to 26, Southerly Latitude; being about 220 Dutch leagues in length and 70 in breadth, and conſequently reputed the largeſt Iſland in the whole World. It is alſo divided into ſeveral Provinces and Dominions, which are moſtly bounded and ſevered from each other, by Rivers.

This Iſland is very fertile, and affoards great plenty of Grain, as Wheat (or Mais) and Barly, as alſo Pulſe, as Lentils Peaſe & Beans [Page] of ſeveral kinds. They have alſo abundance of Water Melons, Ananas, Bananas, and other unknown Plants and Roots. The Trees are loaden with Oranges, Lemons, Pome-Citrons, and two kinds o [...] Pomegranates, to wit, a ſweet and a ſour, as alſo delicate Pears, Figs Almonds, &c. Beſides theſe Fruits, they have ſeveral ſtrange Roots that may be uſed for Diet, which they call Ouviharen, Schambri, Ca [...] bares, Ouvifoutty, Offehe, Mavondre, Damborn, and others, which cannot call to mind, at preſent. It affoards alſo very rich Honey, variety of Gums, Medicinal Balſams, Oils, Roots and Herbs, nor ma [...] we ommit the commemoration of its' rich Mines, and variety o [...] Mettals, though the beſt it affoards beyond other Places, is Steel. Th [...] Gold which is digged here, is much baſer than that of Peru, the Oun [...] not valuing above ten Crowns. Neither is this Iſland without Prec [...] ous ſtones, as Topaz, Amethyſt, Emerald, Sapphire, Jacynth, Jaſpar, Agath, with Blood Stones and others. It abound with Beaſts, as Kine, tame and wilde, Goats which have young times a year; the Sheep are very fat, their tails weighing ſome [...] pound a piece; Swine they have alſo, both tame and wild, who [...] fleſh whether hung, or pickled, is far better then that which [...] have in Europe. There is alſo a kind of wild Swine that th [...] Inhabitants call Perhaps Porcupines, which are of late grown common in Europe. Tendrak, which they hold for a great del [...] cacy: The ſame beaſt ſleeps ſix moneths in the year, in which time ſhe caſts her Prickles, as Hedge-hogs do, which are alſo the in great abundance. The Dogs of this Iſland are for the moſt pa [...] litle, ſhore-ſnouted and ſtump-ear'd. Apes and Monkeys run [...] great troops, ſome times 50, 60 or 100 together, of which the [...] are ſeveral kinds. Thoſe that are white are the moſt cruel, an [...] hardeſt to catch, or tame. Another ſort there are which are grey, an [...] not ſo big as the white which are more tame and flexible; theſe the often take by wiles, and teach them ſeveral practical and artific [...] exerciſes.Why an Apt Commit a Rape. There are beſides theſe another kind of white Ape [...] that go almoſt right over end, and are ſo lecherous that even th [...] Women in that place, cannot be ſecure for them, which they ravi [...] if they find an opportunity, one holding her, till another has pe [...] form'd his Task; whom, when they have had their will, the ſometimes rend in pieces. But there is a kind of Gray Apes, which are held in moſt eſteem; having eies like fire, and are very wi [...] [Page] and unapt to be tamed, and ſome ſo ſavage that they will rather ſtarve than be fed out of hand. There are alſo many Squirrels Weſels and Civet Cats. They are likewiſe annoyed with many ſorts of venemous Creatures and Vermin, as Scorpions, Spiders, Waſps and Millepedes, which are here ſo horribly fell, that the party ſtung falls immediately into a ſwound.

This Iſland is inhabited both by Whites and Negros,The Inhabitants, their Nature, Garb, and Poſture. the former having long and lank hair, the latter a litle curled, and handſom bodied. There are alſo a ſort of tawny People that are not ſo well civiliz'd as the reſt, letting their hair and beards grow, which the other for the moſt part ſhave.

They are in general a treacherous and fraudulent people, prone to Thievery, and greedy of Revenge, which they eſteem a laudable vertue, and deem him a man of merit, who knows how to quit himſelf handſomly in vindication of a Quarrel; but on the contrary he that puts up an affront or injury done him, is held in great contempt, and ſtigmatiz'd for a Coward. They are by nature very ſluggiſh, and inclined to Sloth, much given to Dancing and Singging. Theſe that are willing to take upon them any hard Imployment or laborious exerciſe, are ſuch as follow Husbandry, Smiths, Carpenters, Fullers, Spinners, Weevers, Fiſhers and Fowlers. Their Smiths have a good way to temper Iron and Steel, and are very active in making Knives, Javelins, Pile-heads and Plyers to pull up hair by the roots. They have alſo Silverſmiths, but ſuch as hardly deſerve the naming.

Their Houſes are but little wooden Tabernacles,Their Houſes of one ſtory high and a firm Cieling; yet at the Inauguration of thoſe Cottages they make ſumptuous Banquets: So ſoon as the Houſe is completed the Owner invites all his Relations and Allies, with other acquaintance to the ſaid Houſe, where they are entertained in ſplendid manner: Yet this Treat is not at all chargeable to him, but rather an advantageous mean; for there is not any of theſe Gueſts who dare make his appearance without ſome Preſent, which he is to bring with him (as if it were at a VVeſtmerland wedding) Some bring Gold, Silver, or Steel; ſome great Bowls with Corn, or perhaps Moveables and Furniture for the Houſe; others Oxen, Sheep or other Belly-timber. So that in brief, none ever comes [Page] empty-handed; by which means the Builder has not only the Expences of his Feaſt reimburſ'd, but ſometimes more than what he has laid out in ſuch a ſtupendious Fabric. Theſe Encaenia, or Feaſts Dedicatory, do uſually hold for ſome days together, during which time they live an Epicuraean life, in Luxury and Riot, Dancing, Singing and Playing. Moſt of their Houſe furniture is what properly belongs to the Kitchin: but as for Table, Stools, Benches, Table-cloth, Napkins, Beds and Cuſhions they never uſe any, and when they eat ſit down humbly upon a Mat.

Their Habit and AttireThe Common People go almoſt naked, but theſe of the beſt rank are aparreled in different veſtures, to diſtinguiſh the ſexes; the men wearing Breaches which reach from the midle to the Calf of the leg, and from the midle upward a Cotton cloth, (almoſt like a Scotch Plad) thrown careleſly about their ſhoulders, girded about the middle with a Surcingle. The Women wear a Garb, with, and without, ſleeves, demitted to the knees, having alſo a kind of Drawers with a Girdle about the body, and ſometimes a litle mantle thrown about their Shoulders. Their Cloths are moſtly of Cotton, Bombaſt, and Silk of various Colours, garniſhed with loops of Silk, which is of another colour than the Garment it ſelf. Both men and women go bare-headed, and barefoot, except one ſort, whereof the Man wears a Cap, ſomething reſembling that of a Jeſuit, and the Woman a Hood made after the form of a Pyramid, which comes down to the ſhoulders.

Their Marriages.Their Marriages are generally performed without many Ceremonies; and Polygamy allowed, every man taking to himſelf ſo many Wives as he thinks fit, or is capable to maintain. They are alſo eaſily divorced, Their men will not ſtick to delight themſelves with the Wives of others, and the Women as inclinable to that way, as any in the World, and are carefull to make uſe of every Opportunity they meet with: This they eſteem no ſin, but account it (if they can do it cunningly without being catch'd in the Fact) but a kind of Filching or clandeſtin Theft, which may be expiated, with ſome inconſiderable Preſent, or Gift. Their Young women are alſo great Trade [...] that Way; and without ſhamefaſtneſs will render themſelves proſtitute, to any that will but give good wages, and thoſe generall [...] moſt opplauded, which come off with moſt Gain: and if they inten [...] to marry will not give their Conſent to their Party, till they have mad [...] [Page] proof of his Manhood. The Parents are delighted to ſee their Children active in imitation, and yet notwithſtanding this licentious ſenſuality be tolerated in the Action, yet they will be offended at their Daughters, if they utter any word without the limits of modeſty.

When any Perſon comes to die, the neareſt Friends and Allies,Their Funerals do bath the Corps; and then adorned with Bracelets and Ear-rings, and wrapt in fine cloaths, is carried in a Mat to the place of burial. But the Funeral Rites of Perſons of the higheſt rank are performed with greater pomp; for when one of ſuch Quality dies, he is alſo bathed after that manner as we have already ſaid; which done they ſhave him, and if it be a Woman put a hood upon her head, and adorn her with precious ornaments. Then come in the neareſt Kindred, as Father, Mother and others of the Conſanguinity, with Women, Children and Slaves, to bewail the Dead, making a lamentable howling and yelling, the tears trickling down the Cheeks. Others begin by way of Elogy to recite the Prayſes of the deceaſed Party, and others to beat Drums, the reſt fall a dancing. Theſe Ceremonies ended, one of them addreſſes himſelf to the Corps, as if it were alive, Asking theſe, or the like Queſtions. Oh my dear Friend! how cameſt thou to die? Or, didſt thou want for any thing? Hadſt not thou Cattel, Gold, Silver, Steel, and other Goods enough? &c. When they have deplored the Departure of their Friend, and danc'd the whole day, they kill a Fatling or two, which is diſtributed among his Relations in the Evening. So long as the Corps is above ground they burn light by it; and when they are ready to interr him, they cloſe him in a Coffin made of the Trunk of a Tree which is fitly ſhut up, and carried to a litle Cottage made on purpoſe, in the midle whereof is a Grave about 6 foot deep, here they lay him, and ſet by his ſide a Basket of Rice, a Tobacco-box, an Earthen Pan, a Chaffin-diſh; a ſuit of Apparrel, a Girdle, with what other things they conceive he ſhall have occaſion for, in ſuch a long and tedious Journey. So ſoon as they have done that, they roll a great ſtone to the door of his ſepulchre, and ſacrifice ſome beaſt or other to the Devil, that they may not annoy or moleſt him on his way to Paradice.Impious cruelty over their Children.

Of all the Idolatrous Cuſtoms that I could obſerve among them, there is ſome Nation or other that hath parity with them; But one Barbarous and inhuman Practiſe they have, as peculiar and proper to themſelves, that is, making away of their own Children. True it is [Page] that in moſt places in India and Tartary, they make merchandiſe of their Children, and that by reaſon of their not being in a capacity of bringing them up, but never (like thoſe of Madagaſcar) take away their lives. This they are induced to by an implicit Faith, being perſwaded by their Prieſts, that they are born upon unhappy days, and ſhall be ſubject to great miſery and afflictions ſo long as they live; or that the Planet under which the Child is born, has ſome bad influence upon it; and having view'd the Palms of his hands, and his Face, make concluſion that he will be either Thief, or Parricide, &c. Upon theſe and the like Occaſions, they deliver the Child over to a Slave, which he is to carry out of the way, and throw it into a Ditch or under a Thorn-hedge, where the poor Infant muſt either die of hunger, or be devoured up of Dogs, or other Beaſts of Prey. Others there are among thoſe Women, who when they are with Child if they find themſelves never ſo litle out of order, immediamediately aſcribe the cauſe to the ill Nature of the unborn Babe, and either kill it before it come into the World, or ſo ſoon as it is born bury it alive, and ſometimes throw it into the Water. If a Woman ſlave chance to prove with Child by her Patron, and be turned away; ſo that ſhe be not able to bring it up, ſhe either ſtrangles, or diſpatches it before it come into the World: and ſometimes a white Woman having a Child by a Negro, if ſhe ſee it reſemble the Father, or have curl'd hair: as alſo their Young-women, who make themſelves proſtitute for Gain, follow the like Courſe, but commonly murther the Infant before it be born, deeming it but a burthen to them, and a hindrance of their Profeſſion. But beſides all theſe inhuman Cuſtoms they have another no whit inferiour to thoſe already ſaid, that when the woman dies in Child-bed, the Child is thrown alive with the Mother into the Grave, ſaying. Better it is that the Child dies, than to be brought up by ſtrangers. And becauſe ſo many days are by them held infortunate, almoſt half of the Children are diſpatch'd, which with other occaſions already mentioned, is undoubtedly the reaſon that this great, happy and moſt fruitfull Iſland is not very populous, where not only Polygamy is allow'd, but alſo ſuch freedom given to the unmarried to ſatisfy their luſt, and libidinous ends. Yet certain it is that there is a Stock of people among them, who are more compaſſionate with their Young, and when they preſume that the Child is ſo [Page] poſſeſſed, do only cauſe a Slave to carry it away and hide it a while, and ſoon after fetch it home again: aſſoon as they have got it home again, they Sacrifice ſome beaſt, or Fowl, or perhaps ſhut it up in a Henrooſt, thinking thereby to aſſwage and moderate the ill temper of the childs ſpirit, which otherwiſe would lead him to ſome unhappy end.

The Religion of the Madagaſcars, is hardly worth recounting,Their Religion they being wholly Strangers both to Houſes of Worſhip, and alſo to Prayer. They beleeve that there is a God who hath made both Heaven and Earth, but neither adore nor ſerve him, yet growing old or ſick, they make a kind of Confeſſion to him. They alſo beleeve that there is a Devil, who is the Occaſion of all evil, having the power of Life and Death in his hand, and that they muſt conſerve a perpetual Peace with him, by Worſhip and Sacrifice. Beſides their Opinion that there is a God and an evil Spirit, they have a third Power, which they call Dian Manans, or Lord of Wealth, at whoſe diſpoſing will, they think that they are made rich and proſper in their affairs. They ſeem alſo to have ſome light of inviſible Angels, and of the firſt peopling of the World, after the Creation by Adam & Eve, and the repeopling thereof, after the great Deluge by Noah; as alſo ſome glance of a Saviour, who was made a Piaculum, for ſome great offence committed by all mankind in general. They have alſo their Faſts and Holy-days.

Circumciſion is alſo a rite in uſe with them,Their Circumciſion. which they do at one certain time of the year, with great ſolemnity. The day before all the Friends and Acquaintance meet together, and drink Metheglin till they grow raging mad: and then draw up upon the beating of a Drum, exerciſing with their Darts and An Aſſagay, as themſelvs call it, is a kind of dart, about 5 or 6 foot long. Aſſagays; the Youngmen and Women all the time dancing in Maſquerado, and in the Evening conclude with a luxurious Banquet, and open table for all that pleaſe to come. At night the mother takes the child to bed with her, in a little Houſe made for that purpoſe, about a moneth before the day of Circumciſion, by the Father and Uncles of the Child. The next morning by break of day, the Woman riſeth, and baths her ſelf, afterwards her child: which done ſhe dreſſes it with Corral and Precious ſtones, and thereupon they fall a drumming again, after which a great ſilence is made, and all the Gueſts which are there, muſt withdraw, as alſo all ſuch as have any thing about their body that is red; thinking that if ſuch were preſent, the blood [Page] would not ſtench. Aſſoon as all are withdrawn, except theſe that are nominated to aſſiſt, the Prieſt takes his knife, and ties a white towel about his left legg; that done the Father and Uncles of the Child, take each of them a Child under the Arm, enter in at the Weſt-door, and out again at the Eaſt; and ſo ſitting down, the Prieſt performs the work. If it be the Son of a Slave or Bondwoman, the Prepuce is thrown away, but if otherwiſe, it is preſerved by the Uncle of the child, who lays it up in the Yelk of an Egg, for ſome Inchantment, or other; theſe people being reputed very active Exorciſts, and much inclined to Necromancy: and laſtly the [...] apply a mixture of Cocks-blood and the juyce of ſome Herbs, t [...] the wound; which done they march home, with great Exultatio [...] and joy, and ſo ends the Ceremony.

Their Government and Policy.This Iſland is divided into many Kingdoms and Dominions, which are the Occaſion of perpetual diſcord and warrs among the [...] Their Arms are Bows and Arrows, Javelins, and Targets, which they can uſe expertly well. They are for matter of courage an [...] valour ſecond to none; but fight without any Diſcipline or Order breaking in with the main Battalion upon the Enemy, till the [...] grow ſo confuſed, that they cannot diſtinguiſh their own, fro [...] the contrary Party. During the time of War. They run out [...] ſmall Companies to plunder and pillage the Towns and Cottage of their Enemies, and afterward ſet them on fire. When the Ma [...] is in Battel or under March, the Wife continually dances an [...] ſings, and will not ſleep, or eat in her own Houſe, nor admit of the Uſe of any other Man, unleſs ſhe be deſirous to be rid o [...] her own; for they entertain this Opinion among them, That if they ſuffer themſelves to be overcome with an inteſtin VVar at home▪ their Husbands muſt ſuffer for it, being ingaged in a forreign Expedition; but on the contrary, if they behave themſelves chaſtly, and dance luſtily, that then their Husbands by ſome certain Sympathetical operation, will be able to vanquiſh all their Concombatants.

During the time of our aboad there, we ſaw the King Diembr [...] ſeveral times ingaged with his Enemy, who had a more powerful [...] Army than he, his own not exceeding 7000 men. So ſoon as th [...] Enemy gave battel, Diembro with his Battalion ran upon him (after [Page] they had done with the Javelins) in a promiſcuous order, every one pitching upon his man, and after a ſhort Ingagement gave over, with the loſs of ſome of the beſt on each ſide; although Diembro, conſidering the great imparity of men, had the better Succeſs, and honour of the Camp. When the Battel was done, our party returned, with great Joy for the Day, and every one that could bring the Heads of the Champions, with whom they were particularly ingaged, laid them at the feet of the King, who either gave them a noble recompence, or honoured them with ſome Dignity.

They have a very quaint manner of making Peace.The manner of their Treating about Peace. The Parties inclined to adjouſt their Quarrels, ſend firſt a Herald, with Preſents, who deſire to have communication with the Hoſtility, which when it is granted them, they nominate Time and Place where they may have conference, in order to bring their Diſcord to ſome amicable compoſure. The Meſſenger having performed his charge, returns to the King his Maſter, who gives the General order to put himſelf in a Poſture of marching; the General in obedience thereto muſters up all his Forces and ſits down before ſome River, where the Enemy faces him on the Bank, on the other ſide. When both parties have made their appearance, they kill each of them a Bullock, take out the Liver, and roaſt it, and ſend each other a piece, which is interchangeably received and eaten in preſence of the Heralds or Legates which are ſent on purpoſe to ſee that the Ceremony be effectually performed, binding themſelves with a ſolemn Oath, and under a Curſe, never to break the Truce which is agreed upon, between them: and at the ſame time repeat ſome mutual Articles, as,

Not to kill one anothers Men.

Not to ſteal one anothers Cattel.

Not to burn Villages.

Not to poyſon one anothers Rivers and Fountains. &c.

And afterwards utter many bitter Execrations, as, That the Liver they eat, may be their poyſon if they do not faithfully hold all the Articles ſpecified both ſacred and inviolable.

CHAP. III. The Author's departure from Madagaſcar, Arrival at Sumatra. Four Prizes belonging to Atchin taken. The beaſtly Senſuality of ſome of the Ships-company, upon a Woman. The Ship whereon the Author was, taken as Prize, and brought up to Batavia. The men plundered and their Cheſts broken up. The Author admitts himſelf into the Service of the Eaſt India Company, his Voyage to Siam. An accurate deſcription of that Kingdom.

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MAR. 1649.HAving ſtay'd fully 5 moneths at Madagaſcar, we ſet ſail for Sumatra on the 16 of March 1649, where we arrived on the 12 of Iune then following. We came to anchor in the Bay of Sillaba where we exchanged ſome Commodities for Pepper and othe [...] Spices. On this Coaſt we took two Iunks belonging to Atchin, but all the people jump'd over board, and ſav'd themſelves, except one Woman, whom the Italians, raviſhed, the Officers not able to reſtrain them. The Woman after ſhe had been thus treated by theſe ſenſual bruits (that rather than to deny their beaſtly appetite, made a Bawdy houſe of our Ship) was after much intreaties put aſhoar, and delivered to her Husband, who inhumanly mangled he [...] till ſhe died.

On the 28 we weighed anchor, and ſet ſail for Indraepoura, taking by the way, two Iunks more, loaden with Pepper, Camphi [...] and other Druggs and Spices. On the 29 we arrived at Indrapoura where we took in ſome neceſſary Proviſion and Refreſhments, thinking by the way to meet with more ſmall Prizes, but had no [...] our expectation.

On the 2 of July, we left Indrapoura, and ſo ſet ſail for th [...] Straits of Sunda. When we had got the height of Toppers hook, w [...] met 14 Sail of Ships, belonging to the Dutch Eaſt-India company which were ſent out by expreſs order of the General, and the Council, to bring us up, whether willing, or unwilling. So ſoo [...] as our commander had received the Meſſage, he returned anſwer That he was not under the command of the General, and tha [...] if they ſhould aſſail him, he was reſolved, to fight in his ow [...] defence. The Dutch commander was hereat in a doubt, and ſent [...] Batavia for new Inſtructions. It was not long before he got an Orde [...] [Page] from the General,JAN. 1650. with a Ship of War to aſſiſt him in caſe of Oppoſition: and thereupon imperiouſly commanded him to ſtrike, threatning to fire a whole tear of Guns in caſe of refuſal. Capt. Maas, who ſeeing himſelf now in a great Strait, and the uneaſineſs of his Ships-folk, called together all the Officers, to conſult the matter, when after mature deliberation they concluded it more ſafe to ſurrender themſelves, and give their Maſters a true account of the buſineſs, ſeeing they were not able to defend themſelves againſt ſuch a number of Ships. This Reſolution was very acceptable to the Ships-company, who ſince that diviſion and uproar at Madagaſcar, were ſtill at odds,The Ships ſurrendred to the Dutch. continually jarring among themſelves, and long'd for this, or the like opportunity. The Company now made Maſters of our Ships, brought them up to Batavia, where we arrived the 12 of Iuly. Our Ships outſail'd the reſt by far, we arriving at the Haven 6 or 8 hours before them; ſo that if we had been willing, might have left them, and made our eſcape by night.

On the 15 came Captain vander Meulen aboard, with an Order from the Heer vander Liin, then General, to take poſſeſſion of the Ship. Aſſoon as he was aboard, went into the great Cabin, where he examin'd us one by one. All the Dutch were brought abaft; and afterwards committed to the Javans Corps du Garde. The Italians and other Strangers remain'd aboard, and in the mean while pillaged our Cheſts, and took all the money they could come at. They being now at liberty and diſmiſſed, went every man where he beſt liked, the Italians moſtly to Goa, or Banthem, but the Hamburgers and others imbarqu'd themſelves for Europe. Shortly after the Commander died, and by ſeveral tokens he had on his body, was ſuppoſed to be poyſoned; and as ſome conjecture was done by thoſe which were left aboard the Ship, when we were carried aſhoar. After we had now lain about 14 days in priſon, we delivered a Petition, deſiring Inlargement; which was not only granted, but by Order of the General, all our Arrearages pay'd us to the utmoſt penny, and a Choice preferr'd us, Whether we would return home, or, Liſt our ſelves in the Companies ſervice: ſome rather chuſed to go home, but I, with the moſt part of the men, accepted of the latter. I hired myſelf as Sailmaker, for the [Page] Term of three years, at 18 Gild. per moneth.

Arrival at Siam. The Kingdom of Siam deſcribed.On the 15 Ianuary, I was put aboard the Black Bear, bound for Siam, where we ſafely arrived, and caſt anchor in the Bay.

The Kingdom of Siam lies in the moſt Eaſterly part of Eaſt India, from 7 to 8 degr. Northerly Latitude. There are many Cities, and Towns of note in it, and thoſe very populous, among which India is the chief, being the Metropolis of India extra Gangem, and the city where the King has his Court and Reſidence. The land is very fertile, affoarding all that may ſerve for the delight and ſuſtenance of human Bodies, the Fields ſtored with many ſorts of Cattel, the Rivers with Fiſh, and the Towns with Magazines of rich Merchandizes. The Inhabitants are of a tawny and yellowiſh complexion, and ſuperſtitious Pagans in Religion, as appears by their great Zeal, in adorning of their Temples, and ſtrict Reverence for their Prieſts which are here too great and numerous for the Laity. Their Government is Monarchical, and the King for many ages has been abſolute Sovereign, over this and the neighbouring Territories and Dominions, and that with as much Power, Grandour, and Reverence from the Subject, as any Potentate or King, under the canopy of Heaven. In ſhort, Siam in regard of it's Fertility, Wealth, Number of Inhabitants, and ſubordinat Principalities, may paralel any other Empire i [...] the Univerſe.

Judia. Iudia, which (as we have already ſaid) is the Imperial Tow [...] of Siam, lies about 16 degrees Northerly Latitude from the Aequ [...] tor, and is ſeated on one of the faireſt Rivers (without doubt) in all the Eaſtern World, where a Ship of the greateſt burthen may come up cloſe to the Kay, to load or unload, without fear o [...] ſuſtaining dammage.

The River, and delightſome Countrey there about.In going from the mouth of the River upwards about 30 Leagues, we found ſeveral Inlets and ſwift Currents, which diſgorg [...] themſelves into this great and noble River, with abundance o [...] fair Orchards, pleaſant and delectable Groves, an infinit number of Villages, Religious Houſes, Hamlets, and other amiable Proſpects; the Fields all the while caſting a fragrant ſmell from her ſpicy Flowers; and the Groves affoarded a moſt raviſhing melodie of Birds warbling their wanton ſtrains, and chanting in the ſhades and thickets [Page] [Page]

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[Page] [Page] whither they retired to ſhelter themſelves from the too power [...]ull raies of the ſcorching Sun, and thoſe anſwered again by the [...]oft whiſpering gales of the gentle Wind, and the baſe murmurings of the great Cataracts and Water-falls at a diſtance, raiſ'd and de [...]reſſ'd with the unconſtant turnings of the Wind: all which ſeemed [...]o have ſuch Harmony, that it raviſh'd us as much, as ever the re [...]owned Theſſalian Tempe could the men of old.

The Land is for the moſt part level, of a clay and ſandy earth; [...]ew Hills appear, or any thing elſe ſeems to ſurmount the Horizon, [...]ve the high Towers and Pyramids, whereof we found an incre [...]ible number.

About 8 leagues up the River is a ſmall City, of a triangular Plat [...]orm, and environed with a wall, called Bankok. In the ſame City [...] the Kings firſt Toll-or Cuſtome-houſe,Cuſtome-Houſes. which they call the Canon [...]ankok, and every Ship and Junk to whomſoever they belong are [...]bliged to come to anchor there, and give in their information, upon [...]hat account they come, and from whence; as alſo what Men and [...]oods they have aboard. Having performed that Duty, they pay [...]eir Toll, and receive their Billet, with Letters of Conduct, to [...]o ſo far up as they liſt, till they come within a League of Iudia, [...]here the ſecond Toll-houſe is, called, the Canon Bantenau; and [...]ere they are a ſecond time bound to anchor, and exhibit their Coc [...]ets, which having ſhown, they have their liberty to go further. This [...]cond Canon, is erected only to ſee that the Prince have his due, [...]nd to examin whether that the Stranger be not defrauded by the commiſſioners of the firſt; and to give Licences to enter the Town, [...]nd traffique. It is alſo to be underſtood, that when any Ship is [...]utward bound, they are to pay their Toll at the Canon Bantenau. [...]hich at coming up was the ſecond, now the firſt Cuſtome-Houſe; and are to paſs an Examen at the Canon Bankok, as they did [...]efore at the other, without paying any thing, if they can manifeſt [...] their Cocket, that they have already paid: and this every Veſſel [...]w mean ſoever it be, is bound to do, or in caſe of refuſal to [...]rfeit Ship and Carga.

Siam although it have abundance of Towns, yet there are but 5 [...]at are walled, in all the Kingdom, whereof Iudia is the ſtrong [...], being about 3 Fifteen making a degree, it follows that 3 Dutch miles muſt, be 12 Engliſh land miles. or four Leagues at Sea. Dutch miles in circuit: The walls are conſiderably [Page] ſtrong, with round Bulwarks after the old way, but [...] ter its manner very Stately and magnificent. Within the To [...] are ſome Thouſands of Temples, Cloyſters; and gilded Turre [...] which together do make a pompous ſhow. The ſtreets of t [...] City are very long and ſpatious, the Town it ſelf ſurrounded w [...] a River about 2 Musquet-ſhot in breadth, and divides it ſelf into ſtreams, at that place where the King has his Court and R [...] dence. The Royal Palace is very magnificent and Coſtly, ſtron [...] walled about, and fortified, within alſo are very ſtately and no [...] Appartments, a Fabric which for Workmanſhip and Riches ſ [...] paſſes all that ever I have ſeen in India, and certainly, for [...] Power and Grandour of the Prince, Splendour of the Pala [...] immenſe Wealth of the Inhabitants, Fertility of the Countr [...] and Temperateneſs of the Climate, it is ſecond to no place in [...] dia, if China may be excluded.

Soil and Fertility of Siam.The Soil is very good, and the Land fertile, producing yea [...] a vaſt increaſe of Rice and other Corn; It is alſo rich of Ca [...] as Kine, Hoggs, Buffels, Elks, Hares and Coneys, incredi [...] Flocks of Deer, which are more hunted for their Hides than O [...] caſes, they reckoning That one of the Staple commodities, [...] export many Thouſands yearly to Iapon, and other places of T [...] fic, ſo that the main Trading of the Company there to Ia [...] conſiſts in that Merchandiſe. Wild-beaſts are alſo here in g [...] abundance, as, Elephants, Rhinocerots, Leopards, Tygres, the like; as alſo all kinds of Fowl, both great and ſmall, th [...] have ſeen in Europe, Swans and Nightingales onely excepted, wh [...] I dare not be poſitive whether there be any or not. Nor are Rivers,Fish. as alſo the Sea without good ſtore of Fiſh, and that many kinds: The Sea-ſhore lies thick with Oiſters, and Lobſ [...] which are as delicate as they are plentifull. They uſe the Fiſh Trade alſo as in other places, and make great profit, eſpecially a kind of Scate, that they take chiefly for the Skin, which th [...] of Iapon hold in great eſteem,The great value of Scate Skins. paying ſometimes at the rate 50, or 60 Ducats for one Skin, if it be choice and good; yet ſuc [...] the difference, that I have ſeen a hundred Pieces of Eight paid [...] ſingle Skin, whilſt it has been known, that a whole hundred wo [...] not yield 4. Rix-dollars. Theſe Skins they firſt dry, and [...] [Page] [...]eat care pack them up, and ſo export them. There are alſo in [...]is River many Crocodiles, which the Siamers call Cayman, and [...]e them for Phyſic.Crocodiles uſed for Medicine. There are alſo many venemous Creatures as [...]erpents, Adders, Scorpions and Snakes. It exuberates, beſides [...]e ſeveral Products already mentioned, in Sugar, Oil, Kitchin [...]d Medicinal herbs, and various kinds of Fruit: and in a word [...]am is ſo well provided by nature of it ſelf that the Inhabitants may [...]pply themſelves with what is neceſſary for human Life, and Re [...]eation, without the means of exotic Commerce, and importa [...]on of forreign Commodities.

CHAP. IV. [...]he Nature and Way of living of the Siamers. Their ſeveral Trades and Profeſſion. Travail of their Merchants. Government and Politie. The great State of the Emperour, and Magnificency of his Throne: his Cavalcade, and manner of shewing himſelf to his People. The Riches of his Veſſels, the Elephants ſerved in Gold and Silver. The Wars about the white Elephant, againſt Ava and Pegu.

SIam, as I ſaid before, is very populous, and the Inhabitants generally of a good and free diſpoſition. They Negotiate [...]trongly in every kind of Merchandiſe, whereof they can make a pro [...]t, and that more eſpecially within Land.

They are great incouragers of Art and Artiſts, eſpecially the Me [...]hanicks, and ſuch as they cannot well want, as Houſe-and Ship-Carpenters, Maſons, Smiths, Braziers, Founders; Turners, Plummers, Pewterers, Painters, Carvers, Gold-Smiths, Fullers, [...]awiers, Joyners, Weevers, and an infinit number of Jewellers [...]nd Lapidaries; Nor are they without their Phyſicians, Chirur [...]eons, and Lawiers, after their own manner. Here are alſo Ped [...]rs by Thouſands, that travail from Town to Town, like ſuch [...]s follow the Fairs in Europe; theſe have no faſt dwelling, but [...]re in motion the whole year round, and ſleep always in the booths which they erect whereſoever they come. Fiſhing and Husbandry [...]re well promoted, for every man, be he never ſo mean, if he have [Page] a faſt Reſidence, has his Lands, either leſs or more, which are cultivated with all imaginable diligence, as appears by the yearly Product of Grain, which not only ſupplies themſelves, but is alſo exported into other Countreys, as well on the main Continent, as the adjacent Iſlands. And ſo cheap is all manner of neceſſary Proviſion and ſuſtenance, that Labourers and common Slaves wi [...] work any ſervile work for 3d a Day.

Every City has a Praetor, or Deputy, who derives his power from the King, and with a Council of Aſſiſtance is to determin [...] of all Matters and Affairs, as well Civil as Criminal. The ſame Praetor, or Vice-roy has alſo charge over the Imperial Revenues Tolls, and Cuſtoms, to ſee that they be payd without defrauding of the King, and that the Sub-commiſſioners of the ſaid Dutie [...] do not exact upon Forreigners, that are not acquainted with th [...] Rates impoſed upon their Goods. This Officer, as alſo ever [...] Officer of State, is only to continue three years in one place, an [...] at the expiration of that term, is either removed to a place of gre [...] ter Truſt and Eminency, or has his Diſcharge ſent him. The Suits at Law are preſently brought to an end, and Sentence paſſ [...] according to equity, without regard to the Degree and Quality the Parties; the Client firſt going to a Notary, and has his ca [...] fairly ſtated, which then is brought to an Advocate, who is [...] diſcuſs and comment it before the Praetor, as in moſt places [...] Europe: with this difference only, that the Advocate or Attorne [...] has the power to continue or give over the Suit, as he thinks f [...] which is ordained to prevent taedious Appeals, and perpetua [...] clamours at Court. Criminal Affairs are puniſhed ſeverely enough eſpecially,Malefactors ſeverely punished. Treaſon and Murther, nor do they diſpence with an [...] places of Refuge, or Sanctuary, for the Perpetratours of ſuc [...] enormous Crimes.

There is no Potentate in the Eaſt may paralel this Emperour fo [...] Magnificence and Pomp. He never ſets his foot upon the Earth, bu [...] is carried on a Throne of Gold, from place to place; and uſuall [...] appears once a day before his Peers and Grandees, which alway [...] attend the Court: theſe ſhow him all imaginable Reverence, an [...] aſcribe him ſuch honour as accrews to no Mortal. When any deſire to ſpeak with him, ſo ſoon as he gets admiſſion, preſents himſel [...] [Page] upon his knees, his hands folded, and his countenance caſt to the Ground; then bowing of his body and kiſſing the Earth, he begins his Harangue, which is alwaies done with a ſubmiſſive voice, and at the end of every Sentence, rehearſes his Title, JAOUA TJAUW PERRE BOEDE TJAUW JAOUA, which by an Idiotiſm of our own, is King of Kings, and Lord of Lords. Stately Throne of the King. His ſupreme Throne is of maſſive Gold, made after the form of a Pyramid, and ſo contrived that none can ſee him aſcend. On each ſide of the Throne ſtand ſeveral Statues, and Creatures of monſtrous ſhapes; as is recorded of the Judgment-ſeat of Solomon, which was guarded with Lions. His Perſon is ſecured with a very noble Guard, and well arm'd; ſeveral Elephants alwaies ready in the inner court of the Pallace alſo, for his Pleaſure and Service upon occaſion; theſe are mounted with Trappings of rich Silk, fimbriated and imboſſed with Gold, and precious Stones.

When he goes abroad to viſit his Pagods and Religious Houſes, or to take his Divertiſement (which is ordinarily twice or thrice every year) he is attended with an infinit Retinue of Grandees, and Officers at Court, as alſo all his Wives and Concubines, which are very numerous, all mounted upon Elephants. When this Setting forth is not performed with a Cavalcade, but by Water; there are a certain number of Praws, brought up cloſe to the Pallace. Theſe are almoſt like a Barge, but far greater, having 20 or 30 Oars a piece, with 5 men to an Oar; without they are richly gilded and charged with Feſtons and Foliages on a diapered ground. Others there are leſs noble and rich, which ſerve only to tranſport the Soldateſque, and aboard every Praw are ſeveral that play upon Wind Inſtruments and Drums, which make a confuſed noyſe; Upon the hearing of this, every one, whether Citizen or Peaſant, Freeman or Slave, Young or Old, is injoyned to come forth and fall proſtrate, with all imaginable Reverence, upon very ſevere Penalties, according to the Quality and Diſcretion of the Party. This Injunction is obſerved very ſtrictly, and certain Officers ordained [...]o take notice of the Delinquents, whoſe Rule is Arbitrary, and Meſures ſudden; they are ſo correct in puniſhing ſuch that few eſcape; I my ſelf having ſeen, while I was there, ſome two or three beheaded with a Scimitar, only for being too remiſs, in doing [Page] Worſhip; although in ſuch as want Diſcretion, or otherwiſe unable to perform the Ceremony, through invalidity of Body or Mind, the Offence is either diſpenced with, or expiated with ſome inconſiderable Forfeiture. This Solemn Appearance happening ſo rarely and that with ſuch Majeſtie, creates great Loyalty and veneratio [...] in the heart of the Subjects for their Prince: and ſurely the concluſio [...] and effect of every Maxim in Politic Affairs is the ſecureſt Index; o [...] Diſtinction from a Contrary, which almoſt all the Kingdoms an [...] Dominions of the Eaſt affoard an Example of, and more notedly th [...] Sophy of Perſia, who when with a huge Retinue he makes a Cav [...] cade (which might ſeem to be for no other end than to be ſeen) no [...] dare preſume to appear in the ſtreet, upon pain of Death; of whi [...] more hereafter.

Great plenty of Gold.Gold is here in ſuch plenty that not only Plates, Chargers, Go [...] lets, Bowls, Baſons, Lavers, and whatſoever els is uſefull [...] the Kings Table, is all of ſolid Gold, but alſo greater veſſels in t [...] Kitchin; which had I not ſeen them my ſelf, ſhould have held incredible,The Elephants ſerved in Gold and Silver. if the weight and greatneſs had truly been report [...] But what is yet more, the white Elephant, with the reſt (wh [...] are about 6 or 8 in Number) kept within the Palace, are ſerv'd Gold and Silver. The Gallantry of the Court, and the gorge [...] attire of the Courtiers, is unſpeakeably rich. And to be brief I ſhould repeat the Maieſty of that Prince in Power and Comm [...] The profuſe Emulation of the Courtiers in Embroydery, Je [...] and other coſtly Ornaments, and the Magnificent Structure of Palace and other ſtately Fabrics; I ſhould either prove too weak the performance of ſuch a Province, or, hazard my reputation giving a Narrative of the Pomp which I have in reality beheld, ſuch as have not ſeen it, who would in all probability be too t [...] rous to take things of that nature upon Credit. This I ſhall o [...] add, that rather than to be undeſervedly tax'd with hyperbeliz [...] Froth, I'le content my ſelf with a recommendation thereo [...] other modeſt Gentlemen that have been there, and publiſhed t [...] Journals for the public peruſal of the Curious in general.

Of their Wars.The preſent King of Siam, has lived in great peace and [...]quillity, ever ſince he firſt ſway'd the Scepter: But in the tim [...] the late King, that nation has been deeply ingaged in fom [...] [Page] troubles: Specially with Pegu, Ava and Langjander, partly out of the ambitious minds of thoſe Princes, and partly out of a ſordid covetouſneſs; as of the king of Pegu, who indeavoured to make himſelf Maſter of the white Elephant, which he of Siam had:Quicquid delirant reges, plectuntur Achivi. but after the depopulation of the countreys, and loſs of many thouſand Souls, they made Peace upon ſtrict Articles.

In the year 1648, the King of Ava with the aſſiſtance of a neighbouring Potentate, invaded part of Siam, and took in ſome open Villages, and Towns of ſmaller note; but the king of Siam coming to have notice of this ſudden Expedition, levies an Army of 200000 men, or upwards, marching himſelf at the head in Perſon; and encamped about 2 English Miles from the Enemy, where without either Battel or Skirmiſh they lay for 3 Moneths, when the Enemy not finding himſelf able to continue longer in camp, for want of Proviſion, and Recruits of men, was fain to break up; and march homewards. Thoſe of Patany had ſent Ten Thouſand men, all well diſciplin'd and arm'd, for Auxiliaries in the Service of the king of Siam; but thoſe arrived too late, the King being juſt upon his March for Iudia; where about 20 days after, he was Solemnly fetch'd in by his Nobles with great Triumph and Joy, as if he had obtained ſome notable Victory: and certainly it was the moſt prudent courſe he could have taken, to ſpare his own people, by ſhunning the Blood-ſhed of ſo many innocent ſouls, vanquiſhing the Hoſtility by the reſtraint of his Arms; and in making himſelf formidable with the greatneſs of his Battalions. There was alſo a Navy of Twenty Thouſand Praws, preſſed for the behoof of the Army, to tranſport the Baggage and Proviſion; and beſides the ſtanding Militia and Voluntairs, 52000 Citizens preſſ'd for this Expedition, whom the King allowed Rice for Victualling, the reſt they were to take care for themſelves. The Mandate was no ſooner out, but this Body was completed, which gave occaſion of wonder, to ſome, when they obſerved the readineſs and obedience of thoſe Pagans to their lawfull Soveraign. The weapons uſed then for that Diſpatch, were moſtly fire-arms, and about 20 Pieces of Ordnance, which were committed to the charge of 2 expert Gunners; beſides 5 Thouſand Elephants, and 2 Thouſand Horſe; thoſe that were mounted on Elephants were armed with Bows, Arrows and Darts, and the Cavalry with Fire-locks, Scimatars [Page] and Bucklers, which Armory is alwaies ready for uſe in the Kings Repoſitory. As for Powder they are never at a loſs thro want of it, having ſuch plenty of Salt-peter, which is the main Ingredient thereof: ſo that it is moſt certain, the Siammers are never deſtitute of any neceſſary Ammunition for War, either upon offenſiv or defenſiv Occaſions. Nor yet ſecond to any for true valour and courage, which is checked by a prudent Conduct, and politic Direction of their Power; and thereby the Prince, and the leading Officers of the Army, become dreadfull to the Neighbouring Potentates abroad, and awfull to the Subject at home.

CHAP. V. The Revenues and Treaſury of the King of Siam. The Religious zeal of thoſe Kings in building of Temples, and Houſes for pious uſes. Soldiers without pay. The great Slavery and Charges of the Citizens and Plebeians, their Obedience, and Liberality in devotion. Ample Revenues of the Spiritual. Habit and Function of their Prieſts. The Multitude and monſtrous bigneſs of ſome of their Idols. Their Ceremonies in Worship; wherein congruous to thoſe of the Romiſ [...] Religion.

Revenues of the King of Siam.THE Revenues of the King of Siam, as we have elſewhere ſaid conſiſt moſtly in Cuſtomes, Tolls and Exciſe, for all expo [...] ted Wares and Commodities, beſides the Fiſhing, and Growth [...] the Land, as Corn, Fruit, Trees, &c. There are alſo in the Countrey ſeveral ſubterrannean and foſſible things, Mines of Gold an [...] Silver, Lead-and-Pewter, beſides great ſtore of Sappan-wood, [...] good as that of Braſilia, which is reputed a very rich Commodity and ſent abroad both to Coromandel, Dabul, China, Iapon, and oth [...] Iſlands in the Eaſt.The devour zeal of the Kings of Siam in erecting of Pagods, Religious Houſes-and Temples. When Any that is imployed in the Kings ſervi [...] dies, 2 Thirds of his Eſtate fall to the King, and the reſidue to th [...] Wife and Children of the deceaſed; or elſe in lieu thereof ſuch Salary as they are contented with. The like when any Merchan [...] Stranger comes to die within the Kingdom, two Thirds of h [...] Eſtate are brought into the Chamber of Finances.

The King having that ſpecial mean of making the Army ſuppo [...] it's ſelf, is at very litle Charges elſe, ſave what his zeal moves hi [...] [Page] to, in Building of Temples, Religious Houſes and Towers, to the Honour of his Gods, which indeed are infinitely numerous and coſtly in this Countrey; the enobling of his court, with ſome unneceſſary things tending to his own Honour, about which much money is conſumed; and laſtly providing of Annunition and Shipping upon occaſion of War: but as we have already mentioned,Soldiers without Pay, and uſed as Slaves. the Soldateſque have no Pay from the King, except a certain allowance of Rice, and what Spoil they can take from the Enemy; and theſe, although they goe under the Denomination of Soldiers, yet are but Slaves at beſt, being imployed in all ſervile uſes, as Labourers, when, and where, the King commands.

The Citizens (which may be called Freemen or Proprietaries) are but half a remove from Soldiers,The Condition of the Citizens. they being obliged to maintain and repair all the Fortifications at their own coſt, and defend them in time of need. Yet notwithſtanding thoſe heavy burthens impoſed on the Commonalty, in the performance whereof they are not found remiſs, or tardy, they bring up above twenty Dutch Tuns, without diſpute. Tun of Gold yearly, for Offerings to their Pagods, and the behoof of the Spiritual; inſomuch that the Prieſts, with the large Offerings of the King, and Liberality of the People, grow rich and in great eſteem, notwithſtanding their being ſo numerous in this Kingdom.

The King and People embrace no other Religion than barely Gentiliſm, which, as appears by the ruins of Monaſteries and Cells every where, has been anciently profeſſed among them. Their Ceremonies they ſeem to have borrowed from the Roman, or Greek Church, which they ape, as near as may be, with reſervation of Paganiſm. They are inceſſantly building, repairing and adorning the Temples of their Pagods, founding Cloyſters, and erecting of Pyramids; wherin they ſpare not for money: for though they ſpend their whole Eſtates, about them, they muſt be gilded without, and richly hung within. Their Bonzi, or Prieſts, are diſtinguiſhed from the Laïty by a yellow Veſture, and thoſe again differing among themſelves by certain Badges, or tokens, denoting their degrees: Their Beards, Head and Eiebrows are always ſhaven. According to their Order, they may not handle Money, Marry, nor make uſe of Women, upon ſevere Penalties; for if any be taken, [Page] in company with a Female, he is burn'd alive, or at beſt baniſhed the Kingdom during the Term of Life; and certainly if their Codpiece were not faſtned with ſuch a heavy Padlock; the Laymens Wives and Daughters could never be ſecure, from that peſtiferous rout? Tis true by their Rule they are not to handle money, yet like the Jeſuits, have accumulated to themſelves vaſt Treaſures, which are accompanied with a great reverence and honour from the Commonalty, who whether they have ſuſtenance for their Family and Children at home, will not ſee the Bonzi deſtitute of what he has a mind to, whether it be in Victuals or Apparrel. Their Function is to exhort and teach the People, for which end they have certain Lectures, four times every moon, and at tha [...] time ſet open the Temples, where all the people reſort, and meet in due order. So ſoon as they have buzz'd over a few formal words, they begin a kind of Admonition, inſiſting upon ſeveral good works and moral vertues, but eſpecially to be liberal to the Bonzi, or Prieſts, and the Pagods: How far this prevails upon them appears truly in their free-will offerings, which are indeed very conſiderable, in Gold, Silver, Garments and Meat, which the Bonzi then receive at the Offertory, promiſing to make ſome new Gods therewith, or adorn the Old.

At morning and at night they go to prayers, which they rehearſe with a loud voice, that any ſtranger thereto induced b [...] curioſity, may be permitted to ſee and hear. They go alſo t [...] viſit the Sick, and pray for the Deceaſed, with great ſobbings, and tokens of ſorrow. When they have done Prayer they ſing all together in a Chorus, in the Which are their Ghoſtly Languages, as Arabic in the Al [...]oran, and Latin att Maſs. Pegu or Borneo Tongue, and that with a tolerable good Harmony; that done, they walk leiſurely towards the head of the Temple, and kiſs the Pagods. The Pagods are images of divers ſorts of Metalls, as ſome of Gold, Silver and Braſs others of Woodor Stone. In the Cathedral of India are twelve Pagods of a vaſt Bigneſs, ſitting all croſs legged, like Taylors upon a Table: the chief whereof was 13 fathom high, as he ſat, being of a due Symmetry and Analogy, through all his members. This is uſually called by the Dutch, Den grooten Afgodt van SOES, that is, The great Idol of SOES. The reſt were ſomewhat leſs than this and were placed directly one before another. The Ceremonie [...] [Page] which we have already ſaid to have affinity with the Church of Rome, are, Burning of Lamps, Conſecrated, or Holy-water, Auricular Confeſſion, Indulgences, and Pilgrimages, under taken for themſelves and others, whereby they are of opinion that they merit much, One of them would (if I had given my Conſent) have gone on a long and tedious Pilgrimage for me. They have ſome ſpecial kindneſs for the Hollanders, in that they allow Liberty of Conſcience, and revile not their For that were not conſiſtent with Money catching in thoſe Countreys, where they could never yet finger it by Violence and Tyranny. Gods, as do the Mahumetans, for which reaſon the Opinion of that grand Impoſtor, could never get footing in this Kingdom.

CHAP. VI. Good materials for building in Siam. Their manner of Houſe-keeping, and entertainment of Friends. Neatneſs and cleanlineſs in their Houſes and Bodies. Their way of dreſſing themſelves, both men and Women. Strange Contracts of matrimony. Early marriage. Education of their Children. Learning and learned men had in great veneration. Rites about their deceaſed. Ʋrbanity in their Converſation. The great Affection of the Emperour towards Strangers &c.

SIam has of it ſelf whatſoever is requiſite in building either for Houſes or Shipping: they neither want Lime, Stone, Lead, Iron,Good Materials for building in Siam. nor Wood, or whatſoever elſe is neceſſary. Yet notwithſtanding Stone be here in plenty enough, yet they build their Dwelling-houſes moſtly of Wood, and reſerve Stone for the uſe of their Pagods, Temples, Pyramids, Fortifications and other Public Edifices. Their Houſes they cover with Tiles, and within have ſeveral Appartments,Houſekeeping and entertainment of Friends. as we have in Europe. They uſe not many moveables in their Houſes neither uſe they Benches, Stools, or Tables. Their Floors are all ſpread with Matts which they uſe for cleanlineſs, and upon theſe they ſit down. But if a perſon of Eminency comes to viſit them they honour him with another Matt, or elſe an Arabian Carpet, which is of excellently well wrought Tapeſtry. When he is ſet, they give him Fair-water in Gold or Silver Goblets, and a As Coffee in the Lev [...]nt, or Chocolate in Spain. Siery Pinang, which is the chief thing wherewith they careſs their Friends. They are very nice and curious about their Veſſels in the Kitchin and Diſhes, which for the [Page] moſt part are of braſs, and of a neat faſhion, but generally cha [...] They are alſo very cleanly in their Chamber, and ſurpaſs any oth [...] people that I have ſeen,Cleanly in their Chambers and about their Bodies. either before or ſince. They keep their b [...] dies cleaner than the Turks themſelves, and bath themſelves of [...] than they eat, which is not only their Head, Hands and Feet, [...] was the Cuſtome of the Talmudiſts, and thoſe under the Levit [...] Law, but all over: which being done, they anoint themſelves w [...] perfumed Confectures, made of fragrant Spices, and Herbs. Some them I have known uſe an Oyntment made of Xylaloës, or, wood Aloës, Sandal, Musk, and Ambergreece, tempered with R [...] water, which beſides the delectable odour it renders, is a g [...] Preſervative againſt epidemical and peſtilential Airs.

Men how attired when a broad.Whenſoever their Devotion moves them to go and viſit t [...] Friends, or the Pagods, which they frequently adore, they b [...] and anoint themſelves after this wiſe, and afterwards, attire th [...] ſelves in a Garb peculiar to ſuch Solemnities: the Men have all t [...] fingers loaden with gold Rings, as many as they can well pu [...] without hindring the due uſe of their Joynts, and a long Co [...] Robe, or Caſſock, of divers colours either ſo woven, or [...] ted; which appears very gorgeouſly: this is their Habit from middle downward; under that they wear a Shirt of very fine Lin [...] or Cotton, of red, white, or other colours: above the middle a kin [...] Surplice, with wide ſleeves (like the Gown of a Batchlour of in our Univerſities) Head, Hands and Feet are all bare.

Women how attired.The Women have their hair tied up in a round ball, on the c [...] of the head, faſtned with a golden Bodkin, 5 or 6 inches long their Ears they hang Pendants of Gold about a finger long, w [...] are faſtned to the Tips of their Ears, by great wide holes, b [...] when they are Young, the head where they faſten the Penda [...] ſet with Precious ſtones, as Ruby, Diamond, Amethiſt, Emeral [...] Pearls. Beſides the Rings, which are alſo ſet with Diamonds other Stones, and ſometimes plain, they wear others about t [...] arms, which are maſſie and ponderous. They wear alſo a long Ve [...] of 7 or 8 foot long, and 6 or 7 broad, painted of divers colo [...] being faſtned with a Surcingle about 16 foot long, wound ro [...] their body, which is neatly embroidered with Gold; From middle upward they have nothing but a Cotton-cloth, or a Sca [...] [Page] coloured Silk which they throw about their ſhoulders to cover their breaſts. To be brief the Habit of Men and Women, as well as Children, is as coſtly as gaudy, and their Perſons of a very handſom ſtature, but rather with the ſhorteſt; ſo that with the ſtatelineſs of attire, and comelineſs of bodie, they preſent better than thoſe of China or Iapon. When they walk the ſtreets, they are attended with a retinue of Slaves conformable to their Rank and Abilitie, which are alſo in gentile habit.

The Siammers, although Pagans, have a ſacred veneration for Matrimony, and are generally very chaſt;Marriages the Siammers. Yet they do not eſteem it a diſhonour or ſhame to be Adulterers. Whoredom is in ſome regard diſpenced with (or at leaſt connived at) nevertheleſs they are not much inclined to Venery, but content themſelves with ſuch as they are ingaged to by Wedlock: and in their honeſt demeanor towards their lawfull Conſorts (of whether ſex it be meant) may convince moſt of us, that profeſs the Faith of Chriſt: The conjugal Love of Man and Wife is ſo mutually obſerved on both ſides, and the [...]ilial Duty of Children towards their Parents, ſo reciprocally [...]d, that ſome who pretend to a more than natural Light, need not to reckon thoſe too mean a praecedent for Morality. The parents are very carefull to educate their children, when they are young, and the children diligent in nouriſhing and providing for their parents, when they are grown aged, and unable to help themſelves.

A Batchlour deſirous to marry, and conſequently having ſettled his thoughts upon a Maid, muſt addreſs himſelf (or ſend ſome friend) to the Father of the party, or having none, to her Guardian, and not the Maid her ſelf, with whom they may not converſe; and theſe are to treat together upon the matter. But it is more uſual, that the Parents of both the parties make the Overture, among themſelves. They have no reſpect to Conſanguinity or Affinity, but marry ſometimes with the neareſt relations they have, Brother and Siſter only excluded, unleſs they have different Mothers. But to ſtrangers they rarely marry, although it were to a Family of a better rank or Fortune. They look much after Wealth and Beauty, but not ſo much after vertuous Inclinations, as we do; neither are they prone to be led aſide with affability, or flattery, as ſometimes happens among us, which tends frequently to a future diſcontent and irrevocable calamity. [Page] Now as the Parents alwaies make up the Marriage, ſ [...] the young couple may not of themſelves diſſolve it; and the better to avoid any diſſatisfaction, which may ariſe from the dislik [...] that the one may have of the other, they are generally marrie [...] before they come to maturity, when they are not capable of judging, as at 10 years of age. I have ſeen a Couple married, th [...] man at 12 and the Woman not fully 9. Another couple I hav [...] known, who had 2 Children, and both their ages could not mak [...] up 25 years.Polygamy. Polygamy is here allowed, for every man may marr [...] ſo many Wives, as he liſts, unleſs he be under ſome particuſ [...] obligation to the contrary. They are ſometimes divorced for ſleder reaſons, but alwaies when they cannot procreate Children and being ſeperate they may ſeverally marry again. Their M [...] riages are not confirmed by the Spiritual, but Temporal Magiſtra [...] yet always the Prieſt, muſt be preſent to do Sacrifice on beha [...] both the Parties, They are very punctual in obſerving all the A [...] ticles ſpecified in the Covenant of Matrimony, without the c [...] ſtringency of the Law. They regulate themſelves in Hous-ke [...] ing, Education of their Children and the like, moſtly after Law of Nature, without reſtraint or compulſion. Their Child [...] are very flexible and obedient, without beating or other ſev [...] chaſtiſement. When they are young their Parents commit the to the Bonzi, who inſtruct them in all Sciences and good manne [...] as alſo mechanical Profeſſions and Trades, whereby they afte [...] wards get their living:Learning and Learned men in great eſteem. Although moſt of them deſire rather [...] ſtick to their ſtudies, and ſo embrace the Function of Prieſt-hoo [...] ſuch being among them eſteemed honorable, that have any tinct [...] of Learning.

The dead burned to Ashes.Their Dead they bury not, but, after the manner of the o [...] Romans, burn them; which is celebrated with great pomp, and e [...] pences, proportionable to the merits or abilitie of the Partie. T [...] Aſhes they conſerve in an Urn, which they incloſe in a Pyram [...] erected to the Memory of the Deceaſed: others out of Zeal ca [...] Churches and Monaſteries to be built; or bequeath large Re [...] nues to the Pagods and Bonzi: nay, there is hardly a Slave amo [...] them but gives ſomething for Religious uſes, or perhaps all t [...] he was maſter of; and upon theſe occaſions they are burned at [...] [Page] charges of the Convent. Thoſe that die of any diſeaſe which they repute unclean as Small-pox, Feavers, &c. are not burned, but either thrown into a River with a ſtone about their neck, or given to the Beaſts of prey. The ſame they do with Children, if they come to die before a certain age, for that they ſay, That for want of diſcretion they could not rightly Worſhip their Deïty, and conſequently do not deſerve an Urn.

They are of a very liberal nature, and civil to converſe withall,Urbanty in their converſation. but eſpecially to Strangers. English, Portugueezes, Hollanders, and Moors, without reſpect to their Profeſſion, have liberal acceſs to enter, inhabit and traffic in the Land, by order of the King; and enjoy as much Liberty, and benefit of the Law, as his own natural ſubjects; which draws abundance of Forreigners, from all Countreys, who come thither, either upon the account of Commerce, or to ſeek Protection. This concurrency of ſo many ſeveral ſorts of People doth not only daily teach new Politie, but renders the Prince formidable to his neigbouring Potentates, who know his Kingdom to be ſo populous and the people ſo deeply ingaged to their Sovereign.

The Crown is ſucceſſiv,The Crown hereditary. yet during the minority of the Heir (which is at 15 years) the Uncle, or ſome Guardian nominated by the King, takes place as Adminiſtrator: By this Praecedent alſo are all the Officers in the Kingdom regulated, that are ſucceſſiv.

CHAP. VIII. The Sieur van Muyden invited to the Exequies of the Princeſs. A ſtately Scaffold erected for the Solemnity of the day. A magnificent and ſumptuous Altar Ornaments of the Corps. The Train attending the Ceremony: Order of the ſame. Money thrown among the People. Stages erected for the Almoſners. Artificial Fireworks. The vaſt Charges of this Preparation.

ON the 23 of February, the Sieur van Muyden, Conſul for the Company, was ſent for, by two Interpreters,February 1650. to wait upon the King; who invited him to attend the Ceremony of burning the Corps of his ſole legitimat Daughter. I went my ſelf alſo [Page] to ſee the Exequies performed,FEBR. 1650. but by the remiſſneſs of the Meſſengers, came too late to ſee the Train; for the Corps was brought to the place, before we got thither; but yet came in time enough to get to the ſtage, which was erected for us. On the middle of the Parade before the pallace, were erected 5 Towers; upon each Tower a poll, that which ſtood in the middeſt was 30 fathom high, the other 4 that ſtood in a quadrangular form, each 20 fathom. The Fabric of thoſe Towers was very artificial: Round about under the Architraves, they were neatly painted with Foliage, raiſ'd with Gold, and depreſſ'd with Umber and burn'd Ivory. On the Stylobat were carved Heads of Leopards, Tygres and Panthers. Under the Projecture, Supporters in antic-work, and emblematical to that occaſion; the Scima, or Corniſh with cloſe Leaves ſuitable to the Phriſ [...] and Architrave, but could not at the diſtance I was at, perceive whether it was carv'd or painted. Within the great Tower which ſtood in the midle, was a very coſtly Altar, covered with Gold, and ſet with Sapphirs and other ſtones, being about 6 foot high from the Ground. Upon this Altar was the Corps of the Young Lady laid, after it had lay imbalmed about 6 Moneths within the Pallace The Body was attired in a Royal Garb, with Gold chains, Bracelet and Collars of Gold, and faſtned with Diamonds. She was ſet in a Co [...] fin of ſolid Gold, in which ſhe ſate upright, with her Hands co [...] joyned, and her face looking upwards: upon her head was a Crow [...] of Gold, very richly ſet with ſtones. Then came all the Mandori [...] or, Grandees of the Nation, with their Ladies, attired in White, without any ornament, for White is their Mourning colour; they feigne [...] themſelves ſorrowfull for the Dead, and paſſing by ſtrow'd th [...] Corps, with Flowers and odorous Waters. When theſe Ceremonies were done, the Corps was brought out of the Tower, and ſet upo [...] a Chariot of Triumph, richly gilded, and ſhown to the Grandees [...] the Empire, whereupon all the Ladies began to weep aloud, whic [...] was not altogether real, but feigned; every one aemulating to ſho [...] a greater appearance of Sorrow than the reſt; which was with ſuc [...] earneſtneſs, that it might have been heard all through the Tow [...] After the Chariot had ſtood there about 2 ſhort hours, it was r [...] moved to another place, where the Body was to be burned; and w [...] followed by the Mandorins, and their Ladies, who went ſoftly afte [...] [Page] In the firſt rank went the Kings eldeſt ſon, aged about twenty Years, who was only brother to the Deceaſed, and was mounted upon a Young Elephant all in White: next him were two brethren of his, by another Queen, mounted alſo upon Elephants, on each ſide one: each of theſe had a long ſilk Scarf faſtned to the Herſe, in their hand. On each ſide the Herſe were 14 of the Kings Sons, with green twigs of palm in their Hands, who all the time went in a heavy poſture, their eies dejected to the Ground, framing a ſad Countenance, and uttering many ſighs and expreſſions of Sorrow. On each ſide of the way, by which the Herſe muſt paſs (that was about 6 foot broad) were erected ſeveral ſtages, for the Mandorins of a meaner rank. Theſe at the paſſing by of the Herſe, threw Oranges among the common people; in ſome of which were Which is a piece of Money Valuing about 2s 8d Sterling. Ficols, and Which is half a Ficol. Maſes. this occaſioned ſuch a throng of People, that ſeveral lay under foot, and 7 Perſons trodden to death. When they were come to the Altar, the Corps was taken down by the Mandorins, with Waits and Wind-Muſic, which made a melancholic noiſe; and was carried with great Solemnity to the Altar; where it was ſet down, and laid round with aromatic Woods, and Drugs, amongſt which was poured many ſorts of perfumes and odorous balſams. When this was done the Princes of the blood, and the Mandorins returned to the Kings Palace; but the Ladies were injoyned by the Emperour to remain at the Altar and bewail the Dead, for two days longer; at which time the Bodie was to be burned: and accordingly they ſtay'd there till the time was expired, ſtriving, who could manifeſt the moſt ſorrow; hoping ſo to obtain the greater favour from the Emperour. But the greateſt folly I could obſerve among them was, that when any of them could not diſſemble, or let down tears, they were whipped with thongs, by ſome perſons, thereto appointed, till they wept indeed; and this was duly executed without having regard to their Perſons. Near thoſe Towers, was erected a ſtage,Preſenic ſent the Bonzi, for their good Service in praying for the Soul of the deceaſed. covered with thick gilded paper, whereupon ſate the Chief of the Bonzi, and a litle lower ſat the Prieſts of a lower degree and rank, of which there was a great number; theſe (like thoſe under the Hierarchy of Rome) were imployed to pour forth praiers for the Soul of the Deceaſed. Which when they had done by order of the King, there were ſeveral Gifts ſent them which for the moſt part, conſiſted in Apparrel, [Page] Houſe-furniture and mechanical Implements, of every ſort. At the going down of the Sun there were ſeveral Fire-works play'd off, which iſſued out of Twenty Turrets, covered with gilded paper. All theſe preparations, beſides what was that day given to the Bonzi, and diſtributed among the poor, according to the relation given to the Heer van Muyden, by the Kings Agent, amounted to 5000 Catti of Siam Silver, which is about 66000 pound Sterl. beſides the Images that were beſtowed on the chief Temple, whereof two were of Gold, about 4 foot high, which alſo amounted to a great ſum: for what Gold, Jewels, or other Gifts were in her life time preſented her, by the King, or Mandorins, were expended upon theſe exequial Rites.

CHAP. IX. The Body of the Princeſs burnt. A remarkable token, whereby, it was concluded that ſhe was poyſoned. The Kings fury againſt all the Domeſtics of the Princeſs, who are committed to cuſtody. The cruel Puniſhment of the ſuſpected Parties. A ſtrange wa [...] to find out the guilty. Elephants uſed as Executioners. Fifty men and Women executed in one day, ſome by Elephants, others buried in the Earth, to the Head, where they are ſuffered to ſtarve. A Young Lady with her Brother taken and diſpatched. Their Candour, and free reſolvedneſs to die.

TWo days after the Corps were brought forth, the King went himſelf in perſon, and gave fire to the wood with a Torch, which was done with great Solemnity, and Muſic of all ſorts, that all the time play'd very dolefull Airs. The Cheſt of Gold, together with all the Coſtly Ornaments, wherewith ſhe was attired, when ſhe lay in ſtate, were burn'd with the Corps, and reduced to duſt.

An odd Paſſage.We may not ommit to relate a very remarkable paſſage which happened about theſe Exequies; for when the King went to gather up the Aſhes, which were to be put in a golden Urn, he found a piece of Fleſh, about the bulk of a Young childs head, freſh and unconſumed. This ſeeing, he was mainly altered, and turning about to one of the Magi who ſtood at his left hand, Asked him; What his opinion was? and, What might be the reaſon that this gobbet of [Page] fleſh remained unburn'd. The Sage judging it to be done by ſome Enchantment, durſt not declare his opinion about it; but to ſatisfy the King, replied, That his Majeſty could not but be ſenſible of the Cauſe, ſince nothing could ly occult from his ſearching Wiſdom: the more in regard it was a thing ſo palpable and open. The King by the Saying of this Paraſite, concluded with himſelf that ſhe had been poyſoned, cries out with great raging, At length I have diſcovered the certainty of what I ever had in ſuſpicion: My Daughter is without doubt poyſoned. Upon that in great diſcontent he went into his Mourning appartment whence he iſſued an Order for the ſudden Apprehenſion of all the Ladies, that attended the Princeſs in her Life time, who were in obedience to his Royal Will immediately ſecured.

On the day following divers others of the greateſt rank were ſiezed and committed to Cuſtody, who were wont to converſe with the Princeſs, although they had not been in her preſence for the ſpace of a whole year.

Shortly after it was my fortune to be Spectator to ſuch a cruel Tragedy as ever I have ſeen elſewhere. The King being now poſſeſſed wthi Jealouſy, and ſuſpecting ſeveral to be factious in the matter, yet could not find out any certainty in the thing; he therefore to ſift it out, who [...]hoſe ſhould be that were concerned in the deed, practiſed this cruel Stratagem and impious way of Trial. The king ſent a Meſſenger to [...]ummon up ſome of the chief Nobility in the land to Court, where being come to give attendance, were ſhut up in Priſon, till the Priſon would not hold any more, ſo that he was fain to find a new place, where to committ thoſe unhappy Gentlemen. When the principal Officers and Courtiers were taken into Security. The king not contented ſo, [...]ent alſo for their Wives, and ſeveral Young Ladies, who were known [...]o be familiar with the Princeſs ſome time before her death: theſe were part, that they might not have the benefit of Communication. [...]lſo ſecured in a place When the Emperour had as many Perſons in Cuſtody, as he, or others that adviſed him ſuſpected, he gave order to [...]ake ſeveral Pitts in the ground about 20 foot ſquare, one near another; which the Soldiers were commanded to fill with Charcoal, kindle and [...]low it up with long Fans, ſuch as the Slaves in Siam do fan their Lords [...]nd Ladies with. When all was performed according to the Com [...]andment of the king, they brought forth ſome of thoſe Perſonages [Page] that were impeached with their hands tied behind their backs b [...] all the time guarded with a Body of Soldiers: and being come to [...] place, they ſtript them naked and put their feet in warm Water, make them tender; after that, the Soldiers paired of the skin v [...] razours. Afterwards they were brought before certain Officers, [...] minated by the King as Examinators for that day, and were aſſiſt [...] by the chief of the Bonzi, who inſiſted upon them to confeſs the Fa [...] but upon their ſtedfaſt denial, had the Which is a kind of Curſe like that in the Levitical Law, when the Womanis to drink the water of Jealouſy Rigoloza pronounced agai [...] them, and ſo tranſmitted to the Tormenters, who were forced [...] run over the hot coals without their natural Shoes. So ſoon as th [...] were come through the fire their feet were viſited; and if they v [...] bliſtered, it was concluded by the Bonzi, that they were guilty, [...] ſo led away to the place appointed for them to be kept in, till all [...] ſuppoſed Criminals were turn'd through the Furnace: but when t [...] Officers had don their viſits as they were injoyned, they found [...] but what were bliſtered, and conſequently condemned as g [...] ſome there were on whom this impious Teſt was impoſed, t [...] indeed with a ſtrong reſolution ran through, without receiving m [...] damage: yet many there were who fell down flat in the middle of [...] Fire, where they expired their laſt, for (as we were afterward [...] form'd) there was a ſtrict charge given, as well to the Spectator [...] Officers, not to reach forth their hand to pull any perſon out, up [...] pain of Death. A Scaene (I muſt confeſs) ſo ſad as I have never ſee [...] yet, and hope I never ſhall. That Perillus was thrown into the bra [...] Bull, which he had preſented to the Tyrant Phalaris, to puniſh ſ [...] as he was offended with, had good colour of Juſtice; but tha [...] many in innocency ſhould be maſſacred upon bare ſupicion, [...] that with ſuch unheard-of Cruelty, is in no wiſe juſtifiable. It [...] ſpectacle diſmal enough, none can deny, to ſee a Ship rent up [...] the Rocks; and the diſtreſſed marriners Swimming upon maſts [...] planks, to ſave their lives; but yet harder to ſee ſo many rare P [...] nages burnt alive, and fried in their own blood: for that is fro [...] Divine hand, to which we ow our very Lives and Being: but t [...] the effects of a wretched Tyranny from our fellow-creatures, w [...] Juſtice it ſelf had nothing to demand.

Every perſon who had paſt this horrid Purgatory, and by the af [...] ſaid rule convicted, was led aſide, and by the Soldiers made [Page] [Page]

't Verbranden en ombrengen van v [...] voornaame Edelen in SLAM.

[Page] [Page] [...]o a pale: which done the Elephants were brought forth. Now the Reader muſt underſtand that at Syam they have no other Execu [...]ioners, on the ſcore of Death, than Elephants.Elephants the Executioners in Siam. When the great Elephant was brought, and viewed the Condemned party, went twice or thrice round about him and at laſt took him up with his Trunk, pale and all, and toſs'd him aloft into the Air, and catch'd him at coming down upon his teeth, which ſtruck quite through his body, afterwards throwing him off, trampled him under his feet till his Gutts burſt out, and trode his body flat to the ground. When the Elephant had diſpatched, the Soldiers draggd the Car [...]aſes to the River, which made the way ſlippery with blood. On this manner were the greateſt part executed; but others were [...]rought to the path, which leads to the City, and there put in [...]oles, digged in the Earth on purpoſe, where they were cloſed [...]p, to the neck, and every one that paſſed by, was to fulfill [...]he Emperours pleaſure. (forſooth) commanded to ſpit upon them; [...]o which order I was fain to ſubmit my ſelf, being to paſs by that [...]ay, ſo that I could not avoid it. Theſe were to remain there [...]o till they died, and none daring to give them any thing to eat [...] drink. It was lamentable to hear them cry out to every one that [...]aſſed by to diſpatch 'em; but the Officers kept ſo ſtrict an eie [...]at none durſt move his hand. Four moneths long dured this [...]orrible Maſſacre, and every day a great number put to death: on [...]ne day I have ſeen 50, and the like number on a forenoon. The general number of all that died was by ſome reckoned to be [...]oo Souls, by others almoſt 300 more; and certainly few had [...]caped if they had not abſented themſelves from Court during the [...]placable fury of the King.

This may ſeem to be a mean reaſon, for ſo great a piece of Ty [...]nny, but it was well known afterwards that the King had for [...]erly a deſign to cut of the chief of the Mandarins, of whom he [...]mſelf began to ſtand in aw, and therefore took an opportunity [...]o do it under this ſpecious pretence: and the better to effect it with [...]ut mutiny or rebellion, he had newly levied an Army of 250000 [...]en, and made as if he would denounce war againſt China.

On the 28 of Febr. were 300 of the Domeſtics of the late Prin [...]eſs brought to the place of Execution, who were alſo led through the [Page] fire; but having paſſed through, were (I know not for wh [...] reaſon) ſet at liberty. Shortly after was the Youngeſt daughter o [...] the late King with all her Houſhold, committed to Cuſtody: and th [...] king as it appeared had a great ſuſpicion of her, the more when [...] was informed that whileſt other Ladies at Court, were be wailin [...] the Dead, ſhe could hardly all the time reſtrain her ſelf from laughing: but what made the Matter have a better hue, was, her co [...] plaining to the king how that her daughter (who was alſo the king Child) was had in contempt; and his eldeſt Daughter, in her [...] time promoted to great honour.

MAR. 1650On the firſt of March, was the ſaid Princeſs brought fo [...] and a great number of Ladies; who were all led through the F [...] but (according to common fame) none but the Princeſs [...] bliſtered on the feet. Hereupon ſhe was ſecured with Silver Fe [...] and brought into a Dungeon, where none was permitted to [...] Communication with her.

The next day the ſaid Princeſs was brought forth again into Palace, where the Mandorins were aſſembled in the Auditory ſoon as they began to make inquiſition, upon threatning to pu [...] to torment, if ſhe would not make an ample diſcovery of the Tr [...] ſhe, whether out of Fear, or Glory, is uncertain, uttered theſe Wo [...] or to the ſame effect, If the King will promiſe upon his Royal word; [...] ſo ſoon as I have exhibited the Cauſe of his Daughters death, he will ſp [...] execute me, without making, me a mocking-ſtock to the World, I w [...] promiſe upon the Honour of a dying Princeſs, to manifeſt the whole without further trouble. Upon that liberal ſaying, ſeveral of the Mandarins then preſent, who had a great honour for her R [...] Father, were moved to pity; and 'twas thought, that they w [...] have interceded to the King for pardon for her, if the preſent of the King had not kept them in ſtricter aw. However after faireſt manner they could made report to the King; who promiſ [...] grant her requeſt, and ſent the Mandorins back, to take her into fu [...] examination. Being returned, they brought her the reſult o [...] Petition, and willed her to confeſs the Cauſe and Circumſtan [...] whereupon ſhe declared in preſence of them all, That she with Help of her Nurſe were both guilty of the Fact, and that they had uſed ce [...] exorciſms therein, which was the reaſon, that that flesh was not combuſ [...][Page]as the reſt. She added further, That her ignominious death did not concern her ſo much, as that her juſt Deſign should have no better iſſue; whereby the ſmall remainder of her Stock should be reduced to their priſtin ſtate, and free'd from the Slavery of ſo fierce a Tyrant. When ſhe was further examined in ſome circumſtantial things, She proteſted that it was not provided for the innocent Princeſs, but for the King himſelf. So ſoon as Report was made to the King how ſhe had made a liberal Confeſſion, and what it was, he commanded inſtantly that an Executioner ſhould be ſent for; who being come, he gave him order to cut a gobbet of fleſh out of her Body, and force her to eat it. When the Executioner went to fullfil the Kings command; the Lady ſuffered the fleſh to be tore out with wonderfull patience; but when he tendred it her to eat, ſhe refuſed, crying out, O wretched Tyrant, thou mayſt be my Executioner, but thou canſt not conquer my noble mind. Know, that I defy thy Cruelty; and that the end of thy Sham-poyſon will ſpeedily come, when the remaining Vertue of my Royal Race shall avenge themſelves of thee, and thy Tygre-brood. With theſe and the like words ſhe reviled the King, till by a ſecond Charge ſent to the Executioner from the Palace, ſhe was hackt in pieces, and thrown into the River.

The ſame day her only brother, aged 20 years, was brought to the place of Execution, who during all theſe ſhowers of Cruelty, had feigned himſelf diſtraught, by which means, they told us he was excuſed.

But whether he was guilty or not, it appeared ſo ſoon as he was mounted the ſtage, that he had his Witts about him: for he behaved himſelf with ſuch candour and modeſty, that ſome of the Mandarins could not forbear tears; and with a bitter Harangue ſo reviled the [...]ing, and vindicated himſelf for what he ſuffered, that the Plebeïans were almoſt moved to an Inſurrection; declaring himſelf more ſorrowful for the fruitleſs attempt of his ſiſter, than his own Death. So ſoon as he ſaw the Executioner come to him, he cried out, Innocent indeed I am, as was my Siſter, but now Thou inhuman Tyrant, it is thy will it should be ſo, I ſcorn, although I were ſure of enjoyment, to deſire thy pardon; that thou shouldſt not hope for the leſt pity from the Hands of them that shall revenge my Blood in after times. With theſe and the like words he ſeemed to declare his Innocency, yet uttered ſome expreſſions which contradicted thoſe Proteſtations, that probably were [Page] to only in ſpite of the King.MAR. 1650 Thus was the laſt of the former Kings race extirpated, except one Daughter, which was not capable of doing any thing againſt the Intereſt of the preſent King.

CHAP. X. The proud, and blaſphemous Titles of the King of Siam. The great Preparations uſed to aſſwage the Waters of the Ganges.

YOu have heard by what we have related in the former Chapter, with how much power and aw, the king of Siam rules. It will further appear how well he knows it, by the proud, ſwelling Title he aſſumes to himſelf; two of which were preſented me by a Mandar [...]n and I hope will not ſeem impertinent to inſert here; although the Reader may be pleas'd to take notice, that the Idiom of their Tongue is ſo barbarous, that it will hardly bear ſence, when rendred; howeve [...] we ſhall give it Word for Word.

THE Alliance written with letters of fine Gold being full of God-like glory. The moſt Excellent, containi [...] all wiſe Sciences. The moſt happy, which is not in the VVo [...] among men. The Beſt and moſt Certain that is in Heave [...] Earth and Hell. The greateſt Sweet, and friendly Ro [...] word. VVhoſe powerfull-ſounding Properties, and glorio [...] Fame range through the VVorld, as if the Dead we [...] raiſed by a God-like power, and wonderfully purged from Ghoſtly and Corporal Corruption. At this both Spiritu [...] and Secular men admire with a ſpecial Joy, whereas [...] Dignity may be herewith Compared. Proceeding from friendly, illuſtrious, inconquerable, moſt mighty and m [...] [Page] high Lord; and a Royal Crown of Gold, adorned with nine ſorts of Precious Stones. The Greateſt, Cleareſt and moſt God-like Lord of unblameable Souls, The moſt Holy, ſeeing every where, and Protecting Soveraign of the City Judia, whoſe many Streets, and open Gates are throng'd by Troops of Men. VVhich is the chief Metropolis of the whole VVorld. The Royal Throne of the Earth that is adorn'd with nine ſorts of Stones, and moſt pleaſant Valleys. He who Guides the Rains of the VVorld, and has a houſe more than the Gods, of fine Gold and of Precious Stones; they the Godlike Lords of Thrones of fine Gold, the VVhite, Red and Round-tayl'd Elephant; which Excellent Creatures are the Cheifeſt of the nine ſorts of Gods. To none hath the Divine Lord given, in whoſe hand is the victorious ſword; who is like the fiery-Armed God of Battails, to the moſt Illuſtrious.

The ſecond is as as blaſphemous as the firſt, though hardly ſwells ſo far out of Sence.

THE higheſt Paducco Syry Sultan, Nelmonam, welgaca, Nelmochadin Magiviitha, Jouken der eauten lillaula fylan, King of the whole world, who makes the VVater riſe and flow. A King that is like a God, and shines like the Sun at noon day. A King that gives a glance like the Moon when it is at full. Elected of God to be worthy as the North-ſtar; being of the Race [Page] and offſpring of the great Alexander; with a great Ʋnderſtanding, as a round Orb, that tumbles hither and thither, able to gueſs at the Depth of the great Sea. A King that hath amended all the Funerals of the departed Saints, and is as righteous as God, and of ſuch power that all the VVorld may come and ſhelter under his VVings. A King that doth right in all things, as the Kings of old have don. A King more liberal the all Kings. A King that hath many Mines of Gold that God hath lent him; who hath built Temples half Gold and half Braſs, ſitting upon a Throne of pure Gold, and of all ſorts o [...] Precious ſtones. A King of the white Elephant, which Elephant is the king of all Elephants, efore whom many Thouſands of other Elephants muſt bow, and fall upon the [...] knees.

Lucifer

He whoſe eies ſhine like the Morning-ſtar A kin [...] that hath Elephants with four Teeth; Red, Purple and Pi [...] Elephants, ay, and a Buytenaques Elephant; for whic [...] God has given him many and divers ſorts of Appar [...] wrought with moſt fine Gold,

Trappings

enobled with many Precio [...] ſtones: and beſides theſe, ſo many Elephants uſ'd in Battel, h [...] ving Harneſses of Iron, their teeth tipt with teel and the Harneſſes laid ore with ſhining Braſs. A King that has ma [...] Hundred Horſes, whoſe Trappings are wrought with fi [...] Gold, and adorned with Precious ſtones of every ſort, that a [...] found in the Ʋniverſal VVorld, where the Sun ſhines, an [...] [Page] thoſe ſhod with fine Gold. Beſides ſo many Hundred Horſes that are uſed in VVar, of every kind.

Has the man got any Scotch Pownys?

A King who has all Emperours, Kings, Princes and Soveraigns in the whole VVorld from the Riſing to the Going down of the Sun, under Subjection; and ſuch as can obtain his Favour are by him promoted to great Honour, but on the Contrary, ſuch as revolt, he burns with fire. A King who can show the Power of God, and what ever God has made.

And ſo by this time I hope you have heard enough of a King of Elephants and Horſes (though not a Word of his Aſſes) in this Inſtrument called a Title: and thereby perceive the Pride and Folly of this unpoliſh'd Potentate, where we ſhall leave him and take a walk towards the Ganges,

The River of Siam is a branch of the famous Ganges, The Ceremony uſed to aſwage the River Ganges. and ebbs and [...]ws at the ſame time with that noble River. When it is at higheſt and [...]ady to fall of it ſelf, according to it's natural Recourſe at a certain time of the Year, as doth alſo the Nile, the King imbarks himſelf in a Galley which is within and without ſo richly Gilded, that it ſeems to be all of maſſy Gold. Within the ſame is a Throne of ſolid Gold, upon which the King ſits, having a Canopy richly ſet with Pearls, [...]monds and other Precious Stones. About him ſit the greateſt of [...] Mandorins, on Chairs ſuitable to their Quality; and on his left hand [...]he Chief of the Bonzi, in his Hierarchical Garb. On the Galleries of this Galley, ſit ſeveral Muſicians; which are anſwered by the inferiour Mandorins and Plebeïans, who are placed all along the Banks with Muſical Inſtruments, and Flags of an infinite number. The Imperial Galley is followed with a Retinue of ſome Thouſands of ſmaller Shipping and Yachts. When the King is come to the place where the Ceremony is uſually performed, he ſteps out into a Prawe, where the High Prieſt delivers him a golden ſword upon his knees. After the repetition of ſome formal words, he beats the Water three times, and commands it with a God-like Authority to fall down, and ſo returns [Page] into the Galley: upon which all they that are on the Banks fa [...] down flat upon the ground and ſhout. And thus the blind People who have not the Benefit of Chronicle or Antiquity, and ignorant [...] the courſe of Nature, the hand-maid of God; do really take it for miracle, effected by their Pagan Sovereign.

CHAP. XI. Departure from Siam. They take a Junk. The Cambodiers put in a Ship with rudder or ſails. Arrival at Formoſa. The Junk and all the men caſt awa [...] ▪ Deſcription of Formoſa, with an account of its Products, and the Nature of [...] Inhabitants, as alſo their Houſes, Habit and Cuſtomes.

OUr Ship having now taken in her whole Carga, we had all o [...] to come aboard. Our Loading was moſt Bucks-hides, San [...]wood, and Amrack, which is a kind of Colour, uſed by the Iapone [...] in their Cabinet-work for Verniſhing: and on the 12 of April we ſet S [...] directing our Courſe for Tojovan or Formoſa.

APRIL. 1650About the Pracel banks we deſcried a Iunk, making toward us full Sail, having Dutch Colours aloft, which made us ſuſpect to be a Pyrat: and thereupon our maſter reſolved to throw ſ [...] Goods over-board, and put himſelf in a Fighting-Poſture. But [...] we came nearer to the ſaid Junk we ſaw that it was a Merchant- [...] and not ſo well man'd and mounted as we.A Junk taken, and made Prize. Coming to hail him Commander bad him come aboard and ſhow his Paſs; but he [...] anſwer that his Champan was in pieces and unfit to put out: whereu [...] the Commander put forth the Shallop well man'd and arm'd, to aboard him and demand his Paſs, but found that he had none, b [...] a Cambodier, and loaden with contrabanded Goods, we there took him as Prize. His Loading did alſo moſtly conſiſt in H [...] Hides,The tender mercies of the wicked are cruel. Sanders and Amrak, as ours did: The men aboard her [...] moſtly Cambodiers and Chineeſes, which Capt. Fayer (for that was Commanders name) put all into the Champan, that notwithſtand [...] their evaſion was not leaky, allowing them neither Sail nor R [...] der; ſo that without all controverſy they were loſt, it being then leagues from any coaſt; nor could we ever hear what became of the [...]

[Page]On the 10th. of May we arrived ſafely at the Iſland of Formoſa, MAY 1650 and anchored before the Fort Zelandia, where Peter over't Water was then Governor. As we ſailed in at the Bay, we were ſurprized with a great Wind; inſomuch that the Prize we had taken ran upon a ſeat of Rocks, which almoſt conjoyn, or as it were, imbrace the Bay, like that at Rhodes, in the Levant, made by Art, on which was erected the Image of Apollo: ſo that theſe are with a gale of Wind, ſomewhat ſtiffer than ordinary almoſt unavoidable. The Junk broke all in pieces, and the men were all loſt, ſave 3 Hollanders, who ſaved themſelves upon Planks; amongſt thoſe that were loſt were 7 Hollanders, the reſt Chineezes, being about 20 in number.

The Iſland Formoſa lies almoſt directly under the Tropic of Cancer; [...]its nombril or Center being exactly 23 degr. Northern latitude, [...]eaching in a ſtretch from it's ſouthern Cape, which is in 21 degr. to the [...]weel or Northen Promontory, in 25; and is computed to be about 130 Dutch Leagues in circumference, facing the coaſt of Fokien and [...]ana Round about this Iſland are taken abundance of Fiſh, eſpecially Harders, which are ſomewhat bigger than a Haddock. This [...]iſh they ſalt like Cod, and ſend it for China, where it is had in great [...]eem. The Row of this fiſh is alſo held for a great delicacy among [...] Chineezes when pickled, being red, and lies cloſe and round in thin skin, which naturally grows about it. The Chineezes us'd here [...]ofore to give the Tenth Fiſh to the Company, for their Liberty to [...]ſh on the Coaſts of this Iſland.

Formoſa is a very fruitfull Iſland, but lies untill'd;Fruitfulneſs of Formoſa the Inhabitants [...]ng for the moſt part a lazy People, not much unlike the Spaniards, [...]er willing to ſtarve than work. The moſt fruitfull part is at preſent [...]der the Juriſdiction of the King of Midag. It abounds with Rice, [...]heat, Barley, Kaylang, Maſquinades, as alſo Ginger and Sugar. [...]ere are many ſorts of Trees, and Fruit in great abundance, as, O [...]anges, Lemmons, Citrons, Pomegranates, Guigavas, Perang, and [...]ther Fruits, not known in Europe; and ſome only Proper to this Iſle, which I could never ſee either in Europe, Aſia, or Affrica, as Moupellos and Crambrods. Melons, or Musk-millions, are here ſo plentiful and delicious; that I have been cloyed barely with looking at them when they were cut up; beſides Water-milions and Pompions which are alſo of a very good taſt and Juycy. They have beſides many kinds of [Page] Plants and Herbs, as CABBAGE, Hartichoaks, &c. Sever [...] rich and medicinal Roots and Seeds, as Ananaſses, China-Rock Potatos (not much unlike ours) Ubes, Kadiang and Fakkafocas. Kadj [...] is a litle green ſeed almoſt like that of Coriander, which they boyl an [...] pickle for a Sauce for freſh Fiſh; and gives it an admirable good reli [...] Fokkafokas has the Shape of a Pear, or Quince, but 3 times as big, an [...] grows near the ground like a Pompion: above it is ſmooth like gl [...] and below of a purple and whitiſh colour: this they boil with Be [...] and Pork, as we do Turnips in Holland. There are ſome ſheep in [...] Iſland,Great ſtore of Cattel. but not very many. Harts and Roes there are abundance ſometimes 2 or 3 Thouſand in a Flock together, Wild-goats [...] Swine which are very terrible and noxious to Travellers that go a [...] or unarm'd, ſome they have alſo tame. Beaſts of Prey do much an [...] the Inhabitants that they dare not adventure themſelves far with Land, as, Tygres, Leopards, Bears, &c. Apes and Monkeys t [...] have, which are generally litle. There is a certain Creature on [...] Iſland which the Hollanders call, Den Duyvel van TAJO [...] that is, The Devil of Formoſa. Being about 2 foot long, and 5 in broad upon the back, with ſcales all over the body; it has four with ſharp claws, a ſharp long head, and a tail thick at the r [...] and ſmaller towards the end, like a Crocodil. This litle beaſt feeds [...] upon Piſmires, which he catches by laying his Tongue upon a [...] where they come to feed upon a ſlimy matter, that runs out o [...] mouth, and that holds them ſo faſt that they cannot get off ag [...] When he thinks that he has enough, he draws in his tongue and vours them. It cannot do any harm unleſs to the Ants, which a [...] natural food, but if he ſee a man come towards him, either runs the Earth, or rolls himſelf in, like a Hedghog: ſo that to call Devil ſeems a great improperty. This Great Deſcription of a [...] Creature, we thought not altogether impertinent, becauſe it Creature proper only to this Iſland. Formoſa affoards all kinds of F [...] which other Iſlands in the Eaſt have,Venemous Creatures a great annoyance. except Parrots. And were it [...] for the great annoyance of Serpents, Scorpions, Millipedes, Lizza [...] and other vermin, it were a very delightſom Land, being in a t [...] rable good Climat, and bleſſed with a moſt wholſom Air.

As to the Frame and Stature of the Natives, we cannot give any general Deſcription, ſince thoſe vary according to the pl [...] [Page] they inhabit. Their men are moſtly well bodied and luſty, eſpecially thoſe in the Valleys, and Champane Countrey; but thoſe that keep themſelves in the Hilly part of the Iſland, not ſo big of ſtature. Their Women are but ſhort in Compariſon of the Men, yet are ſtaring beauties; having a Full face, great Eies, a flat Noſe,Formoſa Beauties. long Ears with breaſts hanging down like a flitch of Bacon, and would have handſom beards too, if they did not pull up the hair by the roots. The [...]ps of their ears they bore through, and ſcrew them flat with a horn, made for the purpoſe, which they think ſtands wondrous neat. Finally, I hold it uncertain whether this Iſland has had the name Formoſa, ſeriouſly from the Land it's ſelf, or Ironically from the monſtrous People that Inhabit it.

During the time that I was at Formoſa, I heard often of Men with Tails: to which I never gave much heed, looking upon it as fabulous. Yet I will aſſure the Reader by all lawfull aſſeverations, that I found [...] truth. For it happened that a Formoſan of the South-Countrey was apprehended for an inhuman Murther, committed upon a Clergy [...]an. After the matter was examined and the Party pronounced guilty, he received Sentence to be burned. The day of Execution being [...]ome; the Murtherer was brought forth, and tied to a pale; As ſoon as his cloaths were ſtript off, we ſaw his Tail, which was about a foot long, and all grown over with Hair; ſome of my acquaintance out of their curioſity, went to ſee him, before he was executed, having heard that he had a Tail, and learned from him, that all, or moſt, of the South Inhabitants had Tails. But as to the certainty of [...]hat, I can not ſay much, for that, not underſtanding his Dialect, [...]ey might be miſtaken; only of this I ſolemnly aver that I am an [...]e-wittneſs to it, and would be loath, to impoſe it upon any man's beleef if it were not truly ſo.

Upon Feſtival days when the Formoſans go to preſent themſelves before their Idols they hang great round boards almoſt like Trenchers to their ears, which are artificially painted: others hang Shells full of Small holes, which loll over their breaſts: but upon other days they let their ears be naked, and without any ornament at all.

Their Hair is jet-black and long: ſome of them wear it as we do in Europe; others tie it up above the crown of the head, after the old China faſhion, or plated. Their complexion is of a Swarthy yellow, [Page] or between a yellow and black; but thoſe of Kabelang look more white and pale. The Women of Midag, Soeten Nowe, and Lamea are of [...] brown-yellow complexion. They are generally of a ſubtile and acute witt, endued with a good memory, and tractable enough to learn any Science; but beyond all other Indians flexible to Chriſtianity.

The Habit of the Formoſans.In the Summer-time they are attired onely with a cotton cloath, wide about the ſhoulders like a ſheet, and tied by two Corners athwart the breſt: It is alſo girded about the middle, and ſo hangs down to the calf of the leg. Their ſhoes, which are rarely worn among them, are made of Goat-skins, faſtned above the foot with thongs. But in the Winter, they wear Garments of Furrs, as Skinns of Tyg [...]e [...] Leopards, Bears and Apes. Thoſe of Soulang were formerly apparelled as Europeans; but all the reſt as Chineezes. Before the firſt coming of the Spaniards into that Iſland, the Natives were all naked like as now, thoſe that inhabit the Hill-countrey, which wear only cloth about their middle.

The Habit of the Women doth not vary much from that of the Men, only with this diſtinction, that their Robes are wrapped abou [...] their leggs and made faſt; and ſometimes an upper coat which come only to the knees: About their head they wear a black Towel knott [...] before, which looks like two Horns. Every woman has a Pig which follows her like a dog.

The Men have ſometimes their back, breſt, and arms painted with a kind of colour which never goes out ſo long as they live. Abou [...] their necks they wear Glaſs-beads, and Bracelets about their arm [...] Others have great iron hoops, which reach from the wreſt of t [...] hand to the elbow, having ſuch ſmall creviſes where they ope [...] that it ſeems a wonder how they get them put upon their arm [...] About their leggs they wear a ſtring of white ſhells, neatly hung a [...] ſet in order, that at a ſmall diſtance it would be taken for Lace.

The Men of Tokkadekol wear a long Reed, which is made faſt [...] their Girdle behind, and comes bending over their head; to which they hang a Silk Pendent (or ſtreamer) about 2 palms broad, an [...] 20 long. Upon Feſtival days they adorn their Heads with the feather of a Cock, and hang Bears-tails at their Leggs and arms.

They have no Trades nor Mechanicks among them, but ever [...] man among them makes what he has occaſion for himſelf. When they [Page] he down to ſleep, they only take two Harts hides, the one ſerving for a Bed, and the other for a Coverlet. They are excellent at ſwimming, and uſe the Bow well. But above all other faculties ſurpaſs any that ever I have ſeen at running; no horſe being able to hold with them for a ſtretch of 6 or 8 leagues together: and when they run, have in each hand a tinkling inſtrument, with which they ever now and then hit the iron hoop about their arm, to encourage them forward.

They are wholly unskilled in Navigation, having no other Shipping than a ſort of Canoo, that is made out of a hollow tree, with which they go a fiſhing. This with Hunting is all the employ they follow to ſuſtain themſelves. But Agriculture, as I ſaid before, is but litle exerciſed, partly out of their ſlothfull inclinations, and partly out of fear of the Enemie, they being continually at Warrs amongſt themſelves, and hate nothing worſe than Peace.

CHAP. XII. The Author departs from Formoſa. His arrival at Japon. The Deſcription of Nangueſaque. The Condition of the Town. A dreadfull fire at Nangueſaque. The Stature, Nature, Habits, and Cuſtomes of the Japoneezes. Departure from Japon. Arrival at Formoſa the ſecond time. Their return to Siam, where they take in Elephants. The Author beat with a ropes end at the Main-maſt, and why. His return for Holland, and End of the firſt Voyage.

WHen we had taken in our loading at Formoſa, I left the Black-Bear, and was put aboard a Flyboat called, The Lady, which was bound for Iapon, and ſet ſail on the 15 of Iuly following.

On the 10th. of Auguſt we arrived at Iapon, where according to the manner, we ſignified our Arrival. Immediatly upon notice given came ſeveral Officers aboard, who took away our Rudder, Sails and Ammonition. That done they unloaded our Ship themſelves, not ſuffering us to put to our hand to help them.

The name of the Haven was Nangueſaque, Nangueſaque (or Nangueſaky as ſome call it) deſcribed. a Town which the Portugueezes had built out of the Water, but upon their being rooted out of this Iſland was granted to the Dutch, who till their coming hither, had their Reſidence and Magazine at Firando. The [Page] Dutch Lodge is upon a ſmall Iland, ſevered from the City by a wate [...] about 40 foot broad, having a Drawbridge, which only is let dow [...] from Sun to Sun. The Iſland is fortified with Pallizados, and that [...] ſtrong, that they think themſelves ſecure enough from any unwarrantable violence. The Magazine of the Company is juſt within th [...] Gates, and about the middle ſtands the houſe of the Preſident which is a very large and ſumptuous Building. Beſides that there are ſeveral other Houſes and Shops which make ſo many Streets and Courts. On that ſide next to the Sea ſtands another Gate, which goe [...] down with great and broad ſteps, built for the receiving in of Goo [...] which come by water. This is a very famous Place for Merchandiſe of all kinds, but the chief Commodities they deal in here, are Am [...] Steel Buck and Kaymans Hides, Silk both raw and wrought, Velvet, Damask, Sattins, Cotton, Mercury, Quick-ſilver, Verdi-gree [...] Camphir, Wax, Allome, Pepper, Ivory, and Furrs.

After we had been three days at Nangueſaque, and all our Carg [...] unloaded by the Iaponeezes: they ſhut our Hold up, and ſealed [...] with the Emperours Signet. Which done the Officers went a ſhoa [...] and ſent us 6 Balis of Sakky, a Drink they make of Rice, which is ve [...] pleaſant, yet heady and ſtrong. After our Ships-folk had got a litle i [...] their heads, they put out our Colours; but while they were in th [...] heighth of their mirth,An Orcane. there roſe a bluſtring wind, after whic [...] followed a mighty Hurricano. Upon that our Courage was ſufficien [...] ly allayed, for both our Cables broke, and the Ship was toſsed mountains high, we looking for no other all the time than death. The Shi [...] De Vreede was like a litle Boat upon the top of every ſurge, and [...] laſt thrown upon the Strand where ſhe lay drie: but all her Bow w [...] bilg'd, her Head broke, and her Hold full of Sand and Water. Our u [...] perworks were ſadly battered, and the maſts brought by the board. Th [...] Black Bear and another great Ship lying both with out the head, we [...] ſo ſhattered, that they were brought up by the Iaponeezes as Wrack [...] Beſides this great loſs which the Company ſuſtained in the Shipping were alſo moſt of the Wares in the Magazine damnified by the Sea which beat over the Walls. The Town alſo ſuffered much by the high wind, they not expecting ſuch a Tempeſt, at that time of th [...] year. When it had continued about half an hour or more, the Heaven [Page] [...] began to clear, and we to get courage, but durſt not fall to [...] king again, for fear of another bout.

Nangueſaque lies in 33 degr. 15 min. northerly latitude in a very pleaſant Land-ſhip and is both very great and populous;Situation of Nangueſaq. but like moſt of the Towns of Iapon lies without walls. It is ſeated upon a very commodious Bay, or Road, fit to receive Ships of the greateſt burthen. It has a very magnificent proſpect from Seaward, having an [...]n infinit number of Towers, Temples and Spacious Palaces. [...] Their Houſes. The Houſes are moſtly built of Wood, for the Ground is weak and frequently ſubject to Earthquakes, ſo that they cannot uſe [...] one. But the poorer ſort have litle Cottages made of Twigs and plaiſter'd over with Clay, as in Brabant, Germany and other Countreys. They are Covered with Planks which ſhoot far out over the walls like Pent-houſe, to ſhelter them from Sun and Rain. They have upon [...]uch houſe ſeveral Tubs with water, which is kept in caſe of fire, to [...]hich ſuch buildings are liable. And certainly were it not for the great [...]fit of the water running through the Town in Ditches, as it does almoſt Towns in Holland: it would be ſuddenly reduced to ashes and [...]r this reaſon have they built ſeveral Houſes of Stone where to ſecure [...]eir Goods upon ſuch occaſions. The Houſes of this City are uni [...]m, and the ſtreets regular, there being 88 Streets, each 400 foot [...]g, which are are all fenced off with Palizados at the end, and Lant [...]orns ſet up. Here they have alſo their watch-houſes, and none are [...]uffered to paſs by night; no not to fetch either Doctor or Midwife, [...]ithout a Paſs from the Governour. This Watch is ſet all ways at 10 a [...]ck, after which hour few people are ſeen upon the ſtreets. This [...] good means to prevent Mutiny and Theft, but is a great incon [...]ence if Fire do happen to break out; for no ſtreet or Ward can [...]ave the Aſſiſtance of another in ſuch caſe: beſides the great danger [...]hat the People themſelves are in, being ſometimes ſo narrowly pen'd [...]p. An Inſtance of this happened in the year 1646, when a dread [...]ull fire happened in a houſe where ſeveral Dutch had their lodging, which on a ſudden had conſumed a great part of the Street and ſeve [...]al Houſes on both ſides, burnt down to the Ground. The Dutch then [...]eing themſelves in ſuch peril, chuſed rather to hazard the effects [...]f the Governours diſpleaſure for that time, than to be roaſted alive, [...]roke up the Fence and ſaved themſelves.

[Page]The Iaponeezes are reaſonable fair of complexion, but a litle me [...] ſwarthy than the Europeans. The Form Nature, Habit and cuſtomes of the Japoneezes. The ordinary Habit of the Man is [...] much diſtinguiſhad from that of the Woman. They go all w [...] long Robes thrown careleſly about their body, and tied round t [...] midle with a Surcingle. The Ladies of the beſt Quality, wear garment of cloth of Gold and Silver, and that very richly embr [...] dered: Their Hair is neatly adorned with gems and preci [...] ſtones. The men are robuſt and very perſonable; their Heads ſo [...] thing bigger than is duly analogical with their Bodies. T [...] Women are but ſlender, yet let their Body grow as it will, wearing alwaies a looſe Garment, only their feet they ſcrew [...] pinch as much as they can to make them litle, which they th [...] handſom: So that when they are come to their full growth, have like Children of 5 or 6 years old. The Iaponeezes are in gener [...] very hardy people, and can endure any extremity of Heat or [...] Hunger or Thirſt to a miracle. This they ſeem to come to a hardy uſage when they are young; for they always bath [...] Infants in cold weather in Rivers, and ſometimes plunge [...] over head and ears in Snow. They are excellent Warrious, are well acquainted with Fire-arms; as alſo with the Long-bow [...] Javelin. They are grown famous in all the Eaſt, for expert A [...] rers, and temper Steel better than the Chineezes, which far excee [...] Europeans. Their Swords are ſo well tempered that I have ſtruck one through an Iron pin, of half an inch thick, without the leſt [...] of damage to the edge. They follow Hunting much, which [...] principal Trade and Paſtime there in uſe, and prefer Ve [...] before any other dainty whatever. In their entertainments, are very open and liberal,Jannuary 1651 and uſe Tea for a Careſs, whi [...] far better than that which is exported abroad, and prepared a different manner: but they refuſe to impart it to Chriſtians, w [...] I held ſomewhat ſtrange, in regard, that the more it is uſe other Countreys the greater is their advantage, ſeeing that have better in this Iſland than any where elſe in the World.

When we had done our Negotiation at Iapon, we ſet Sail for Ba [...] directing our Courſe firſt for Formoſa, and ſet Sail the 30th. of Dece [...] with a hard Wind, and a Northerly That is, a Wind which blows from one point for certain moneths together, called alſo Monſon. Mouſson; ſo that we [...] Formoſa in 10 days Sailing; and on the 9th. of Ianuary following a [...] [Page] [...]at night caſt anchor before the Fort Zeelandia. Upon our arrival [...]e I was put aboard the Poſt horſe, which was bound for Siam, where [...]rrived on the 22th. of Ianuary, and there took in the Sieur Van der [...]yden, Conſul for the Company at India; who was to go for Batavia. Here we took in 8 young Elephants, with Provender, which was [...]mit and Sugar-cane, as alſo a certain quantity of Rice. Here I may [...] ommit a certain paſſage, which (though unadviſedly done) [...] almoſt coſt me my neck. About noon when the dinner was [...]dy, I went to the Cook for a bowl of hot broth, which having [...]t I came to bring it to 2 of my Comrades, and paſſing by the Hold, [...]e of the Elephants wound me about the leggs with his Trunk (or [...]nout) that I came tumbling down, Plater and all, which being [...]lding hot, fell upon the Elephants back, and made him to roar out [...]d ſtamp, that the Ship tumbled and ſhaked again, this ſo amazed [...] Commander that he came running out of his Cabin to know what [...] the matter. Here I was in a great ſtrait fearing to cry out, being [...]ſible that he was a choleric man, and yet durſt not ſtay below for [...] Elephant, who if he could have come at me would have trod [...] me as flat as a Flounder: but conſidering with my ſelf that the [...]tain would aſſuredly come to hear of it, one time or another, and [...] ſtaid long I was ſure this beaſt of vengeance would ſend me to [...] Grandſir. I cryed out and the Commander in all haſt ſent one [...]o pull me up. So ſoon as they had got me upon the Deck, he gave [...]der to tie me to the maſt, and commanded a fellow to lick me [...]ily with a ropes end.

On the 15 of February we ſet Sail for Batavia, February 1651 The Author diſmiſſ'd. His return for Holland. where I was diſcharged [...]y Service, and permitted to go for Holland: and in order thereto [...]nt aboard the Ship Zelandia, which was then almoſt ready to ſet [...]. On the 26 we ſet out, having a good Wind, and a fine ſerene [...]t. Within a few days we ſailed through the Straits of Sunda; and [...]ence ſet our courſe for S. Helena.

On the 21 of April we got ſight of Saint Helena, where we came ſafe [...]to the Harbour, being 7 Sail in all. As ſoon as we were arrived,Arrival at St. Helena. [...]e went up into the Iſland to Hunt, fiſh and range the Woods for [...]ranges, Lemons and other Fruits.

Having now refreſhed our ſelves ſufficiently,May. and all things in a [Page] readineſs we ſet ſail in order to the purſuit of our Voyage,The end of the firſt Voyage. and ma [...] Land on the 10th. of Auguſt, where we bartered with ſuch Goods [...] we had aboard, for Oxen, Sheep, and other neceſſarys: and [...] forwards for Holland, where by God's gracious Conduct we arrived o [...] the firſt of September 1651, and put in at Goeree.

THE SECOND VOYAGE of JOHN STRUYS.

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CHAP. I. An account of the Authors undertaking his Second Voyage. A great Sea Storm. His arrival at Yarmouth, and at Leghorn, with a Deſcription of that Town; as alſo of Pica and Florence, and laſtly of Bologne.

BEing now ſafely arrived in my Countrey, after a long and tedious Voyage, which nevertheleſs by the Goodneſs of Almighty GOD, was not without ſome ſatisfaction for what was paſt; yet finding my ſelf in a State litle better than before, and at a loſs for Imployment, I was brought into a melancholic paſſion. After I had ſpent ſome time at Amſterdam, in waiting for an opportunity to make another Voyage, and not hearing of any, ſuitable to my mind and capacity, I reſolved to go for Durgerdam, to ſee what entertainment I ſhould find at home; and purſuant to that my intention went to the Boat, where I caſually met with one Capt. Ketel of Durgerdam, a perſon with whom I was formerly acquainted. After he had congratulated my happy return, asked me, What courſe I was bound to take? I told him, that I had a deſire to undertake a new Voyage, but I could not meet with an opportunity to Ship my ſelf upon any conſiderable Terms. Well (ſaid he) upon what Terms would you go? I replied, For Sailmaker. That occurs very well, quoth he, for I have been inquiring for one, and we had already determin'd to go this Voyage without one: And[Page]if you like to go with us, DEC. 1655 I will be as civil to you as I may. This anſwer of his was no ſmall matter of comfort to me, being then, as I have already ſaid, deſtitute of Service. The Captain brought me aſhoar, and in a Victualling-Houſe agreed with me, when he had almoſt made me tipſy with Strongwaters, and ſo got me aboard the Paſſage-boat, where I lay and ſlept that whole night and the next day, till we arrived at the Texel, where the Ship lay at anchor. When I awaked I began to look about me, not knowing where I was, at firſt I thought I was in my Lodging at Amſterdam, but perceiving the Veſſel tumble and toſs too and again, I concluded that I was ſtill aboard the Eaſt-India man. Whilſt I was in this quandary the Captain comes down to me which unriddl'd the doubt. When I bethought my ſelf what I had done, I grew very uneaſy and diſpleas'd at my ſelf, for my inconſiderat and unadviſed Actions: however the Captain gave me fair words, and aſſopiated the Quarrel between Me and My ſelf.

On the 20 of December 1655 I Shipp'd my ſelf aboard the Fly-boat, called Het Huys te Gennip, which was bound firſt for Yarmouth, where ſhe was to take in Red-herring.

On the 14 of Decemb. we left the Texel, and on the 20th. got Yarmouth Roads, where we met with a contrary Wind, which blew ſo hard that we could carry no Sail, but were fain to let all drive, and truſt to the mercy of GOD. This dured for the ſpace of 12 Watches, at which time we made the Texel; and to our great happineſs had a Pilot aboard, that was intended for. Yarmouth who brought us ſafe in at the Spaniards gat: for it was impoſſible for us to keep off at Sea, the Ship being ſo full of Sand, that we could not ſtir the Pump: and before we made land, found that we had 7 foot Water in the Hold, ſo that had we not luckily put in there then, the Ship had not held out one Watch longer. When by the Grace of God, and Diligence of the Pilot we had got in there, we unloaded the Ship, ſtopt the leaks, and ſupplied the defects of our equippage. and,

January 1656On the 28 of Decemb. we ſet Sail, having a brave Wind, and clear weather; and on New-years day arrived ſafe at Yarmouth.

On the 15 of January we weighed anchor, and left Yarmouth, having taken in our intended Loading, and directed our courſe for the Straits of Gibralter.

[Page]On the 2 of February we entred the Straits, FEB. 1656. and on the 10th. got Leghorn. When we lay at anchor here, there happened a miſunderſtanding between Mr. Ketel and my ſelf, about a trifling buſineſs, which brought us both without the bounds of Moderation; for proceeding from Words to Blows, we were at laſt ſoo deeply ingaged that we both tumbled over board. Our Maſter was ſo kind as to let me climb up but when I came upon Deck put me in Irons, that ſeeing our courage was not yet cooled in the Sea, he had that one mean to keep us aſunder. In the mean while ſome had taken opportunity to pillage my cheſt, and borrow 116 Ducatoons: but I could never be ſo happy as to learn who was my Creditor: ſo that I had but a ſmall portion left me, with which I purpoſed to go by land to Venice.

Leghorn is ſo well known of all Gentlemen and Marriners that have ſeen Italy, that it may ſeem needleſs to deſcribe it. Nevertheleſs ſince it is a part of my Province, to take notice of ſuch Towns as are in any regard eminent and famous, I ſhall not ommit to ſay ſomething briefly of it.

This City which is one of the chief Havens in renowned Italy, was by Francis and Ferdinand, great Dukes of Tuſcany upon conſideration of it's commodious ſite raiſed from a mean village to a great Emporium. The ſaid Dukes fortified it with a ſtone wall, ſince which time it was gradually advanced by the encouragement of Trade; and is at preſent ſtrengthned with 5 Bulwarks and 2 Cittadels, or Forts the one whereof commands the Haven, and the other ſecures the Town on the Land ſide, towards Piſa, which is furniſhed with 60 great Guns. About 6 Engliſh miles from the City is a Beacon for direction of Marriners by night, there being many Rocks toward the South that are often the occaſion of Ship-wrack, and is therefore called Malhora. Theſe Rocks do cauſe impetuous breakings of the Sea, which yet render the entrance of the Haven more free and ſecure. So that Ships and Galleys may ride ſafely at anchor in this Road. The City on the out-ſide appears more magnificent than it is indeed inwardly: The Frontiſpieces, as well of Privat as Public Buildings being plaiſtered, upon which are painted Sea-fights, Hiſtories and Landſchap. In the midle of the Town is a ſtately Market place and an Exchange, where (as at other Places) Merchants meet and negotiate their Affairs. Corn, Fleſh, Fiſh and other neceſſaries are here very [Page] good and cheap, which occaſions almoſt all that are bound farther up to put in there for Refreſhment. On a Corner Stand four ſtatues in braſs, repreſenting the Father and 3 Sons, who attempted to row away a Galley, belonging to the Duke of Tuſcany; and ply'd ſo ſtrongly that the reſt of the Galleys, had enough to do to overtake them, and were ready to yield it for loſt. Theſe 4 men were Moors, and for that notable Eſſay, are recorded with their Images in mettal which are ſet one againſt another, with their Hands behind their back.

Leaving Leghorn I ſet forward for Piſa: but before I was got half way, was aſſail'd with 4 Highway men, who were well mounted and arm'd: two whereof allighted, and clapt their Piſtols to my breaſt, bidding me deliver my money. In the mean while they fell a ſearching of my pockets and breeches, but not finding my money, which I had ſtitch'd up in the lining of my Coat, they gave me 2 bunches of Grapes, and rode away.

Arrival at Piſa.On the 22 of February I came into Piſa, where I took up my lodging for that night, and the next day went to take a view of the Town. It is ſeated at the foot of a great Hill, about 8 leagues from the Sea, between two Rivers Auſere and Arno: and ſeems to be ofPiſa, vel ut apud Ptolomae um Piſſa, teſte Strabone lib. 5. Tuſciae oppidum, inter Arnum & Auſerem amnes, à Piſaeis, conditum, Elidis populis, qui Neſtorem ad Ilium ſeculi in reditu tempeſtate diſjecti, alii quidem Metap ontum, alii littus Tyrrhenum [...]enuerunt, ubi a nomine relictae patriae Piſas condiderunt. ancient Standing. It was made an Univerſity (as ſome write) about the year 1339 but began to grow out of Eſteem till reſtored by Coſmo di Medicis Duke of Florence, and afterward by Laurence his Nephew; to wh [...]m Vollaterran and Machiavel aſcribe the Founding. There are here ſeveral fair Churches; that dedicate to Saint Iohn is a very ſtately building, and renowned beyond any other Church in Italy, for it's coſtly Tower which is of admirable rare Workmanſhip. The Church-yard, otherwiſe called Campo Sancto, is viſited by many ſtrangers, which was made at that time, when Frederic Barbaroſſa went to Warrs againſt the Infidels in the Holy Land: to which Expedition thoſe of Piſa aſſiſted him with 50 Galleys. But the ſaid Frederic Barbaroſsa being caſually drowned, the Galleys returned back again, all freighted with Earth, of which they ſay the Church-yard is made.

On the 23 towards night I left Piſa, and went to Florence; Between which two Towns is the moſt delectable Fields and Valleys, that ever I have ſeen, either before or ſince, inſomuch that I thought my Journey neither long nor irkſom, though on foot.

[Page]On the 26 I entred Florence, which is ſeated in a pleaſant Valley' and divided by the River Arno into two parts, which is the ſame River that runs by Piſa. On the Weſt it hath the Champane land which is admirably delightfull: on the Eaſt the Countrey is Hilly, and ſtored with abundance of Fruit-trees, and on ſome part it is fortified with the Appenin Hills. This City is reckoned about 7 miles in compaſs, and enjoys a ſubtile and wholſom Air, which renders the Natives and Inhabitants more acute and of a ſharper Genius than thoſe that Inhabit, or are born in places of a groſſer: The City which is divided by the River, is again united by four ſtately Bridges. which ſo beautify the Town that perhaps gave Charles the Arch-duke occaſion to ſay, that this was a City only to be ſeen on Holy-days. The fertile Hills and rich Valleys wherewith it is environed, affoard the Inhabitants plenty of all neceſſaries. Here is the Court and Reſidence of the Duke: The Palace being one of the moſt magnificent in all Italy, yet far more ſpacious and ſplendid within than without: but to recount the ſpacious Halls, Pompous Antichambre, Marble Statues and Pictures in the Galleries, with all it's Appendencies, were an endleſs labour. Right over againſt the Pallace is a Lifeguard, conſiſting of a hundred Germans. Before the Palace is alſo a very ſtately Fountain, adorned with huge Statues both of Marble and Braſs, out of which ſprings Water, being all in emblematical repreſentations. Upon the Mercato Novo is a very ſumptuous Building in which the Citizens, meet and treat about the affairs of Merchandiſe. The Palace of the Medici is a ſtupendious Fabric, and for artificial carved works, aſwell in Wood as Stone, and Pictures of the moſt eminent Italian Maſters, ſeems to aemulate the famous Vatican. Beſides theſe are many other inferior Palaces, Bublic Puildings, Churches, Chappels and very ſpacious Cloyſters, all which would take up ſome moneths to make an exact ſurvey of. In many ſtreets are Galleries or Piazzas, (as in Covent Garden,) where one may walk to avoid either Sun or Rain. Here are alſo many Houſes built for Charitable uſes, where the Sick are relieved with what they ſtand in need of; and every one of thoſe Houſes kept very neat and clean, eſpecially the Hoſpital adjoyning to the Church Alla Nunciata. Yet above the many famous Structures which grace Florence, the Houſe of Prattelino outbraves them all, which was built by Francis de Medicis. The firſt [Page] you come at is the Palace, which is raiſed upon a ſquare Fund, or Platform, which entring, you have at firſt view four Chambers that are oppoſite to one another, and ſtand alſo in quadrangular form, ſo that the 4 quarters are again ſubdivided each into 4 leſs, which make 16 Appartments. In one of theſe ſtand 2 coſtly Beds, one for the Duke, and the other for the Dutcheſs. The reſt of the Chambers are hang'd with Tapeſtry, and ſome with Cloth of Gold, unſpeakably rich; and illuſtrated with artificial and coſtly Statues, which are ſet in convenient Places thereto ordained. In like manner when we went up another ſtory, we found 16 Chambers more, paralel with the Platform of the former. In every one of theſe was a ſtately bed, the meaneſt whereof is computed to have coſt more than a Thouſand Crowns. Comeing out of the Pallace you come alla Grotta, which is a fair Arch having therin a Fountain, that ſeems rather to be Natural than performed by Art. Round about the Fountain are Snakes, Adders, Lizzards and other Serpents, ſo artificially made in Braſs that they might be taken for Living. On each Pillar ſtand Organs, which are moved by the force of Water, in ſuch manner, that they make a moſt lovely and ſweet Harmony. The Walls are in ſeveral places ſo thick ſet with Gems, Coral and other things of value, that they cannot be perceived. The reſt is ſet with Marble. About the middle ſtand fair Alabaſter Tables, to which if you draw near, the Water riſes from under your feet, and flies all over your head and bodie, but indeavoring to ſhun it, you are again ſaluted after the ſame manner from another place. On the other ſide is another called Grotta Sibylla, which is alſo very coſtly, and ſet out with many fair Statues of Marble and Alabaſtre, richly adorned with Coral, where are alſo curious Water-works, none ever coming there but is wet with thoſe ſubterranean Showers. On your right hand is the Bath of the Prince, which is under full of holes, through which the warmth can come to cauſe Sweat. Beſides theſe there is a third Arch, which is for the Heat in Summer, whither the Duke and his Houſhold retire to refrigerate themſelves. In this Arch, is a fair large Table of Alabaſter, and at each end ſeveral Holes, in which they ſet their wine to cool. There is belonging to this Houſe a pleaſant Garden, wherein are many Springs and Ponds: and every rare and choice Tree that will like in that Clime. Behind this Garden is a Park, full of ſtrange Birds and Beaſts, and therein a ſtately and [Page] delightſom Arbor where the Duke frequently dines in the Summer ſeaſon, and from whence he can view both his Palaces, the one within the City and the other without. Right over this aforeſaid Garden is yet another, in the middle whereof is a Chappel, where the Duke for the moſt part goes to Maſs, and Veſpers. This Chappel is built round, after the manner of the Heatheniſh Temples of old, planted round with Cypreſs trees, and has all its inner works of that Wood. Near to that ſtands an Image of 24 foot high, which will repreſent Neptune, or Thetis, made of White marble, from whence all the Waters in the Fountains have their Riſe: upon which if a man ſtands he hears a wonderfull murmuring and buzzing of Water from below.

This City is a place of great Traffic and Commerce, eſpecially in Silks and Velvets, of which I ſaw many rich ſhops upon the Ponte Pecchio, or Old Bridge. The Florentines themſelves are very able and skillfull in the Affairs of Merchandiſe, and very litle Traffic don in Italy wherein they have not an intereſt; ſo that Pope Clement VI called them the fifth Element. Beſides their domeſtic and exotic Trade, they have given encouragement to, and bred up many, ingenious and famous Maſters in Architecture, Painting, Carving and other Practical Sciences and Arts, and have for a perpetual memory and Gratitude ſo many ſtately Pallaces, Churches, Pictures and Statues left them to Poſterity. This City is alſo very Courtly in reſpect of it's Situation, through which all Ambaſſadours and Miniſters of State from forreign Potentates muſt paſs, intending for the Court of Rome, or Seignory of Venice. It is much frequented, viſited and likewiſe inhabited by many Private Gentlemen, who ſpend their Eſtates here, and is a choice place to live in as well for Artificial as natural Delights, for ſuch as have an Eſtate to bear it out with. However, I had litle reaſon to complain of bad meaſure during the few daies I ſtaid there. For meeting accidentally with a Monk,A Chriſtian Monk. who ſeeing me to be a Hollander, did not only careſs me all the time in ſuch manner that I needed not pay any thing either for Lodging or Diet, but alſo ſhow'd me all what was remarkable about the City. This Monk underſtanding that I was ſhort of Moneys, and intended for Venice, procured me 4 Rix-dollars, which was as much as I had occaſion for, to bear my Charges thither.Departure from Florence

On the 1ſt. of March I left Florence, and took my leave of the [Page] Monk,IAN. 1656. whom I thanked for his great Favour and Civility, which he had ſo ſignally manifeſted to me a ſtranger, on ſuch an extreme and emergent occaſion: and tending towards Bologne, I was fain to climb over a high ſteep Mountain, and in the valley found the City.

Bologne lies about 44 degr. being a Town of ſmall circumference, yet wealthy and full of Inhabitants. The form of the City ſeems to reſemble a Ship whereof the Tower d' Aſinelli is the Maſt. It has ever been a Maxim among them not to ſuffer either Cittadel or Fort to be built, under the ſpecious name of Fortification, being jealous that under ſuch a colour they might check the Citizens at their pleaſure; So that the Bologneezes have nothing to rely upon, than only the Walls, and valour of their men. The City is founded on the Banks of the famous Savona, which River incorporates with the Rhem a litle above Ferrara, by which way all Goods are conveighed. The Air is here for the moſt part moiſt, which renders the circumjacient Countrey very fertile, there being the beſt Meadows and Arable ground in all Italy. There is alſo very good Wine, Olives and Oil: although Fiſh they have none except what is brought from a far; but Veniſon in great abundance. In this place are made ſuch Sauſages, as are ſent abroad for great rarities, which ſome would perſwade us at home are made of Aſſes fleſh: but my curioſity induced me to make ſuch examination of that matter, that I found it otherwiſe; for they are made of Yet nothing is more covered and eaten by the Jews. Pork and Mutton. Beſides the Traffic in the natural Products of the Land, they are great Encouragers of Manufactories, and eſpecially in Silks. The Streets are very fair and ſpacious, and at each corner is erected a Conduit, or Fountain. The Houſes on the outſide ſeem as if they were quite gone to decay, yet within are very ſumptuous and coſtly, quite contrary to thoſe in moſt places in Spain, that I have ſeen, where every Houſe by the Frontiſpiece ſeems rather a Palace than a private Dwelling, yet within naſty, full of ſpiders-webs, and void of Utenſils, pure Emblemes of Hypocriſy. During my aboad there I found not any thing extraordinary, as worthy of Remark, unleſs the Tower of Gariſenda, which is built crooked on purpoſe, for a proof of Art: although ſome hold the Churches of this City (if taken in general) to ſurpaſs all others in any particular Town in Italy, more eſpecially in regard of the many and rich Images, both of Gold and Silver, but their ground [Page] for ſuch an opinion is ſo deep,MAR. 1656. that I have not line enough to ſound it.

CHAP. II. The Author departs from Bologne, and arrives at Ferrara. Aſſail'd by a Robber: His Arrival at Venice, where he liſts himſelf in the Armade. He arrives at Sante. A great ſtorm between Milo and Argenter. The Ship called The Golden Cock ſplit upon Rocks. A ſad Shipwrack. A woman wonderfully ſav'd. The Authors arrival at Candia: Departs with a Tartan to the Venetian Armade. Their Appearance before Mytilene, where they obtain much Spoil and Proviſion; at laſt aſsaulted by 200 of the Turkish Chevalrie. Their Encounter, and return aboard the Fleet.

AFter I had ſtaid 2 days at Bologne, I ſet forward for Ferrara, where being arrived I found it a dead Town, having nothing of Trade; but on the contrary many places void and unbuilt, a ſure and evident token of the declining condition of that City. Notwithſtanding all that, there are many curious Structures in Ferrara, eſpecially on the River Po, which runs that way, and expatiates it ſelf in Trenches or Ditches through the Town. It is ſtrengthened with many ſtrong Bulwarks and Ramparts, and has many ſpacious and airy ſtreets, with Piazzas on each ſide along the Houſes. Beſides this, I could not find any thing worthy of remark, and certainly it was no time for me to conſume my ſmall Eſtate upon ſuch unprofitable Pleaſures.

On the 6 ditto I left Ferrara, tending my journey for Chioggio, but by the way met a Foot-padder, who pillag'd me,The Author rifled. and took away 2 Rixdollars, which were given me by the Monk at Florenza, and left me about 20d to help me to Venice.

On the 8th. I arrived at Chioggio, which is a ſmall City on the Sea-ſide,Arrival at Chioggio. from whence I could view the long-wiſh'd-for Venice, being but 3 miles diſtant. Here is a very convenient Haven, moſt haunted by Fiſhers, yet has litle other Trading to depend upon, except Gardening, and that only to ſupply Venice with Plants and Herbs. The prime thing I ſaw here, was an Image of the Virgin, with a weeping Child in her arm, held by them in great Veneration. As for Churches [Page] and Cloyſters I had neither leiſure nor money to gaze at'em,MAY. 1656. for my Noble was brought to Ninepence, and only as much left me as would pay my Paſſage to Venice: where being arrived, and paid my naulum, I had not a Farthing left. Nevertheleſs I knew that I could liſt my ſelf when I would, and receive advance-money: and after a litle Inquiry, met with Monſr. Theodore de Haan, Commander of the Golden Cock, who took me on as Sail-maker. It was not long before the Ship was in her due equippage, and ſet forth in order to joyn with the Armade of Venice, which was upon an Expedition againſt the Turks in the Dardanelli. But de Haan having received letters from Holland, about ſome urgent affairs of his own, reſigned the Command to his Son, and went home by Land.

On the 10th of April we ſet Sail from Venice, in company with the Grand St. George, which was then commanded by the Sieur Court Adelaar afterwards Admiral of Denmark, and lately deceaſed.

On the 20 ditto we arrived at Xante, where we ſupplied our ſelves with freſh Water, and took in ſome Pipes of Wine, which is here exceeding good, and tolerably cheap: for the Barillo, a meaſure of about 5 Gallon, or rather more, coſts but a Scudo, that I ſuppoſe is equivalent with 5• 8d Sterl. which again is vended in the Armade for 6 Crowns.

On the 22 we departed from Xante directing our courſe for Milo; and on the 5th. of May got the heighth of that Iſland, but did not touch there, ſteering directly between Milo and Argentero; and here we came to anchor, but too near the coaſt of Argentero, for we were annoyed with mud. Upon this aroſe a great Storm of Wind, which rock'd us to and again, and at laſt broke our Cables. We endeavored all we could to get Sea room, but the Wind being towards the Land, drove us flat againſt the Coaſt, where the Sieur Adelaar ſeeing us in ſuch danger, ſent off his Long Boat with 5 or 6 men to fetch a Perſon of Quality from aboard us, who was a Superintendant of ſome eminent Place, under the Juriſdiction of the Common-wealth: but all the reſt of the Gentry, with about an Hundred Soldiers and Marriners ſtayd aboard. Soon after, the Ship was caſt upon a Rock with the violence of the Sea, where ſhe ſplit all in pieces: in ſuch manner as no tongue can expreſs, nor pen decipher, that a Ship of ſuch Burthen, like a Plank was thrown ſo high above Water, and in the [Page] twinkling of an eie daſht into a Thouſand ſhivers. Lamentable it was to hear the pitifull moan of ſo many that were Parents for their Children, Men for their Wives, Wives for their Husbands, Children for their Parents, and every particular for their Friends and Alliance, The Maſter of the Ship and my ſelf got a Maſt, which, what by the boyſtrous Wind, and what by the violence of the Floods, did ſo tumble and roll, that we could not keep it in a due ballance, ſo that we thought beſt to look out for ſomething elſe, and by Heavenly Providence met with the great Hatch, which came driving with ſuch force againſt the Maſt, that it had almoſt ſent us both to ſound the Deep. However indeavouring to ſave our Lives, we got faſt hold of the Hatch, and won the Shoar. All the reſt were drowned to 19 Men, and 2 Women; the one whereof was a Venetian Lady,A Gentlewoman wonderfully preſerved. whoſe Husband was a Captain in that Expedition. This Gentlewoman, after a long and weariſom beating thro the Surges, and Foamings of the Sea, was thrown mother-naked upon Land, but moſt miſerably torn and rent with Nails and Splinters; having according to the report made by the Chirurgeon, above Fifty Wounds and Holes in her Body: yet notwithſtanding all this, was more grieved to hear of the loſs of her Husband, than ſenſible of her own calamity: However conſidering the extreme cold ſeaſon, and her weak condition, we covered her Warm with cloaths and Bedding. The other Woman that was ſaved, was the wife of a Privat Soldier, who was great with child, had driven Six and Thirty Hours upon a piece of the Hulk, and to our great admiration was taken up alive. It was certain that ſhe could not have endured any longer being already ſtiff and benummed, and us pale as a Corps. So ſoon as ſhe was brought aboard the Saint George and warmed, was delivered of an Abortiv Child: but her ſelf revived, being cheriſhed by the help of other Women aboard that Ship. Shortly after the Ship-wrack came all the Moveables and Goods aſhoar. Being now come aboard the Saint George, and a litle refreſhed, we ſteer'd away for Candy, where we arrived in ſafety; but what by our unhappy lingring at Argentero, and increaſe of Folk, the Victualling grew very low; upon which we deſired the Governour to ſupply us with what we had occaſion for, but Anſwer was returned us, That Candia was of it ſelf but very meanly provided, and that they were not in a capacity to aſſiſt us. We then [Page] deſired, that we might have a Tartan to tranſport us to the Armade, in order to admit our ſelves again into the ſervice of the Commonwealth. To this the Governour gave his aſſent, and with a Ship and 15 men, and ſome Ammonition diſpatched us for the Armade.

On the 3 of May we ſet Sail from Candy, but were put to our allowance at the rate of 2 lib. of Bread each man a day, upon a Calculation of 10 days, and ſo conſequently 20 lib. the Voyage.

On the 8 ditto, we came cloſe under Mytilene, and found that our Proviſion was already ſpent, ſo that it was reſolved by the major part of the Company, that we ſhould go aſhoar and ſee out for ſomething to ſupply our Wants, although we knew that the Iſland was under the Juriſdiction of the Turkiſh Emperour. However ſeeing there was as much Danger on the other hand, we chuſed rather to adventure our ſelves on land, than to ſtarv aboard: and accordingly 12 Hollanders and 15 Greeks ſtept aſhoar, and ſeeing a drove of Cattel we took 6 fat Kine, which we led to the Boat and ſo got them hoyſ'd aboard, one by one. This fair beginning encouraged us to go further within land and about a mile from the Creek where the Tartan lay, found a ſmall village of about 10 or 12 Houſes, but [...]ot any appearance of either man, woman or child, who we concluded had hid themſelves for fear. In the mean while finding no ſcarcity of Bread, Meal, Butter, Cheeſe, Honey, Wine and Oil, we pick'd and chuſ'd each what he had a mind to, and having pack'd up more than we could carry, we thought it a ſin to leave any thing behind us: we therefore went a litle out of the Village, where we found about 20 Aſſes, theſe we took and loaded with our Spoil, and in our return to the Shallop eſpy'd a Caſtle which before we had not ſeen, and thither we ſuppoſed that the Peaſantry of that Hamlet were fled to ſecure themſelves. But in coming forwards, we found that there was but one high way to the Boat from the Village, and that cloſe by the Caſtle; for every man had fenc'd in his Ground with a high Flint-wall: nevertheleſs coming paſt the Caſtle we met with no obſtruction or annoyance in the World, till being got about half-way I looked about, and ſpied 200 Troopers following us as hard as they could drive, whereupon I cried out, Gentlemen, Here comes a Command of Horſe, ſee what you have to do, and reſolve without much loſs of time, for if you do not behave your ſelves couragiouſly we are all dead men. Be valorous and keep together, let us be faithfull,[Page]and if, we muſt ſubmit to death at this time, MAY 1655 let it be in a honourable manner ▪ The Turks in the mean while drew nearer and nearer: and we loath to part with our Plunder, made a faint-hearted fellow (that was good for nothing elſe) drive the Aſſes before, whileſt we drew up into a Body and put our ſelves into a Poſture of defence. Our men unanimouſly gave me (for the time being) the honour of a Chieftain, in lieu of a better. As for the Greeks, they were greater Strangers to martial Diſcipline than we, and ran confuſedly up and down without any order. When the Turks were juſt come upon us, I gave charge that they ſhould not fire all at once, but by 5 at a time, and that not till they had taken good aim, and the Enemy within ſhot. With that the Turkish Commander (being a Moor) advanced upon a ſtately Horſe, was bound to level his Carbine, but to anticipate him I gave the Word to the firſt Rank, who brought him down to the Ground and three more beſides him. This falling out luckily the ſecond Rank gave fire, and ſo following the third, till we ſaw above 20 of the Enemies Party dead, that gave us no ſmall encouragement; but on the contrary ſo diſheartned the Enemy that they began to retreat; for beſides the great advantage we had of the High walls of Flint, which ſerved us for a Rampart; our Arms were large Muſquets, and theirs but ſmall Carbines, which at that diſtance could not do much Execution. When they were gone a good way back, we climbed over the Wall, marched along the high way with four in a Rank, and kept our ſelves together. The Turks ſeeing that faced about on a ſudden, clapt ſpurrs to their Horſes, and came driving upon us with a moſt horrid ſhouting; thinking ſo to bring us out of our Ranks, and to put us into a diſorder: which if they could have effected, had ſerved their turn. But our men the ſecond time faced about and levelled their Muſquets, till we had them at a due diſtance and ſo we fired for a good while together, without either gaining or looſing ground; till at laſt the Enemy ſeeing themſelves conſiderably weakned by the loſs of their Leaders, were forced to retreat again till they were out of ſhot: but ſo ſoon as we began again to march, they followed us, but in a very eaſy pace, intending (as we had colour to beleeve) to ſurprize us at taking our [...]es aboard, but they ſeeing us too near the Boat were content to let us alone for that time: for had they come we had [Page] four ſmall braſs Pieces in the Shallop which would have done more ſervice than the Muſquets.MAY. 1656. So after this ſmall Bickering, we got our Spoil aboard, with the loſs of 2 dead, and 3 wounded in the Conflict.

CHAP. III. The Authors Arrival at Sante Monte; and at Troy. The Galleys of Bay come with the Turkish Armade. An English Ship ingaged with the Turks; defends her ſelf manfully, and at laſt burned. The Author made Slave, and put in a Galley, with an old Ruſs: Conſult to eſcape: Betake themſelves to Water, and are diſcovered. The Ruſs shot with an arrow. They come both to the Venetian Armade.

ON the 9th. dito we left Mytilene, and with a brave Wind got Monte Sante, or Holy Mount in 2 days: This being the Hill (as the devout Romaniſts beleeve) whereon our Saviour was tempted by Sathan, and from whence he ſhow'd him all the Riches of the Earth.

On the 12 dito we Sailed into the River of Conſtantinople, where we found the Sea-Armade of Venice at Troy, which is the place and remnant of the famous Troy, ſo much read of in the Poets of old, although it is hard to judge where the Town has verily ſtood. All that is to be ſeen, is a Gate which is built of white Marble, and ſeems to be exceeding ancient, and a ſmall Village with the Foundations of a wall, that encompaſſe the Town 7 times, not in circular form, but as it were involved like a Snake, or the ſpring of a Watch. Towards the Sea are ſome Trenches and a Redout of Earth, which have been lately made by the Turks to check the Paſſage of the Propontis, or Channel of Conſtantinople.

On the 14 we were taken into ſervice, and I put aboard the Litle Princeſs.

On the 15 we ſaw the Galleys of Bey, who ſeeing that we had ſtopt the Channel, row'd away toward the Greek ſhoar, where they ſtay'd together, being 22 in number.

On the 16 came an English Ship from Sante called the Midleton to bring Bread, Oars, and Ammonition for the Armade, w [...]ch the Turkish Galleys aſſail'd, when ſhe came near the Dardanelli. We hearing that, did all we could to ſail off and aſſiſt them; but it was ſo [Page] calm, that our Sails cling'd about the maſt.MAY. 1656. The Turks in the mean while lay battering the English Ship, and the English on the other hand defended themſelves couragiouſly. After they had fought ſome hours, the Turks boarded her abaft and got the Poop, which the English ſeeing blew up the Decks, and ſo ſet the Ship on Fire, which nevertheleſs when they ſaw her on Fire to the Main Maſt, ceaſed not to fire valourouſly out at the Prow till ſhe began to ſink, which they marking betook themſelves to ſwimming, rather willing to burn or ſink than ſurrender themſelves or Ship upon diſhonorable Terms. However the Turks took up as many as they could, and made ſlaves of them. Aboard this Ship was an English Woman who kept a Houſe of Entertainment at Venice, notedly known by the name of Mrs. Penters, and one that was very kind to the English and Dutch when in any ſtrait or trouble, and many of our Nation were ſorry when they heard of her Death. The Ship Midleton was mounted with 36 Guns, and 60 Men, whereof about 40 were drown'd and burn'd, as we found by the Bodies we took up an hour and a half after the Battel. And afterward underſtood by the Slaves we took in the Engagement at the Dardanelli, that the Galleys were ſo diſabled that they repented the Aſſault, beſides more than 500 Men outright kill'd, and a far greater number wounded.

While we lay at Anchor at the entrance of the Channel, and loating to and again before the Dardanelli, the moſt part of our men were quell'd with a Scorbutic diſtemper, for want of freſh Water. For all the Water we could have, we muſt fetch out of the River of Troy, which we could not doe without great perril, and jeopardy of our lives; the Turks having ſeveral hidden Trenches, in which they lay ſculking till they ſaw opportunity, and then ſurprized us. To my great misfortune, I was ſent out with 7 more to fetch Water with a Boat; and coming to Troy, we ſaw very rich Vineyards, at a diſtance, and mightily longing for ſome ſuch refreſhments, we caſt lots who ſhould make the attempt to go and fetch ſome Grapes, and the [...]ot fell upon me: wherefore without much loſs of time I betook my ſelf thither, viewing warily if the coaſt were clear, but ſeeing no ſtir or appearance of men; I went up undauntedly, where I made both Hands and Chaps move. But whilſt I was thus buſy, heard a great [...]oiſe, and turning me about, deſcried ſeveral Turks that had lay in [Page] ambuſh running towards me, from ſeveral places between me and the River. Our men were newly come aſhoar and filling their Casks with Water, who made all the haſt they could, gain'd the Boat, looſ'd off from the ſhoar, and eying the Enemy too earneſtly ran the Shallop upon a Sand, where they were ſet faſt; but having ſome Fire-arms aboard, they kept the Turks off, till they got the Boat adrift, and ſo made their eſcape. In the mean while I ſat biting my nails, and ſcratching my head in the Vineyard. Seeing my way forelaid, and no hopes of coming to the Sea-ſide. I began to conſult with my ſelf what ſhift to make, and concluded it the greateſt folly in the world to oppoſe my ſelf againſt ſo many men, for which (being once in their clutches) I might expect ſeverer uſage. It was not long before they came to ſee what kind of a Fool, they had got in their Gin, where they found Peel-garlick ready to yield up the Ghoſt for fear. They brought me firſt to the Hamlet, where Troy was ſaid to ſtand in times of yore, and afterwards to thoſe Caſtles which are built oppoſite to each other,The Author made a Slave. and command the entrance of the Dardanelli. Here they put me in a Galley, ſtript off my Robes, ſhaved my head, and ſet me to an Oar, which was work enough for ſix of us to tug at, allowing me only a pair of linnen Breeches to cover my nakedneſs. I was chain'd to a Ruſsian, who had been 24 years in the Galleys: for all ſtrangers that they take in the Venetian Sea-Armade, are to ſtay in the Galleys during life, without the benefit of Redemption. Which when I came to underſtand, began in all haſt to repent my temerity, and foolhardineſs, and had thought my ſelf more happy if I had been pilling of Turnips or Cucumbers at Durgerdam, than plucking of ſuch ſour Grapes, in a Trojan Vineyard.

How inhuman and barbarous our Uſage was, no Tongue can duly utter nor Pen decipher. For the Guardian of that Galley was reputed the moſt ſevere of any other in the Fleet, and although we plyed never ſo ſedulouſly, were ſure to be threſh'd on the naked ribs with a Buls-pizle, when the fit took him; and one mans hide muſt unjuſtly be made a piaculum, for another's Remiſneſs, or Sloth, nor was the Tygre ever well, but when he heard ſome a roaring, or yelling out The Ruſs was ever now and then counſelling to betake our ſelvs to flight, which I had a great mind to eſſay (for the Venetian Armade lay but two leagues from us) but could never ſee an opportunity, [Page] meeting perpetually with one obſtruction or other; and the Coaſt narrowly watch'd by the Turks. The Ruſs had ſeveral times attempted to run away, but was ever taken, and had neither Noſe nor Ears left him. This woful Praecedent daunted me ſo, that I had no great ſtomach to try, but one day above the reſt he gave me good encouragement, ſaying, Prethee Brother, Which is beſt, To live in perpetual Slavery, or, Doe what you can, to make your Eſcape? Put the caſe it should be fruitleſs and we should be taken, I shall be ſure to have the hardeſt meaſure, but you, only a hundred ſtroaks on the foot, at worſt. 'Tis true, they have threatned to burn me, if ever I run away again, and am caught; but I will rather dy ſo, than to live all my days under the lash of thoſe unreaſonable Hell-Hounds, and to be tormented with a Thouſand Plagues, after the manner you ſee. Come, come, reſolve. Faint heart never won fair Lady, and Nothing venture, nothing have; What is there in the VVorld, that may be praeferred before a Golden Freedom? By theſe and many other reaſons he moved me to hazard to matter. The Moſcovian or Ruſs, who was a ſubtile Impoſtor, and had an excellent hand at any kind of Roguery, had been ſome time before at Conſtantinople, where he had bought a File; this he had ſtitch'd up in his Coat, and carried always a litle Tinder-box and a Watch-light about him, to uſe in time of occaſion.

Having now for the ſpace of 6 Weeks endured this wofull ſtate,The Author makes his Eſcape. we found an Opportunity to rid our ſelvs of that miſerable Slavery: for being now left to our Liberty to fetch Water for our ſelves, my Camrade and I that were chain'd together went farther within Land than we needed, and ſo returned honeſtly back to the Galley, and that for 2 or 3 times together, the better to prevent ſuſpicion, till at laſt, we ran ſo far out of ſight that we thought our Enterprize half won. The night coming on, it began to rain, and we to ſhelter our ſelvs, crept into a cave, where my Mate ſtruck fire and lighted his Wax-candle, that we might ſee to file: and after a litle labour got our ſelves looſe. The night in regard it was dark favour'd us mainly, ſo that we came to the ſtrand an hour before break of Day, which we ſaw full of Tents. But being a very rainy night and ſtormy weather, the Sentinels did not attend their Poſts, ſo that we paſſed through the middeſt of them without any examination, and betook our ſelves to ſwimming before it was obſerv'd. But it was not long before they began to ſuſpect ſomething, or other, for that Water is [Page] very ſalt and has this property, that with the leſt motion, or troubling, it burns like fire. Hereupon they ſhot at us by gueſs and random, with the Long-bow (for by reaſon of the Rain they could not uſe their Fire-arms,) ſo that the Arrows came pelting about our ears, and ſometimes grazing upon the Water, till at laſt one hit the Ruſs directly upon the buttock. However he ſwom ſo long with it, till we were out of ſhot,The Ruſs shot with an Arrow. but when I would have pulled it out; the poor caitiff began to yell out moſt miſerably, crying, Let alone, let alone, 'tis an Arrow with a wicker. And thus he was fain to ſwim for two Leagues together, before we came to the Venetian Armade: and had the ſtream heavy on our ſide. When we came to the Armade we were taken into the Ship Abrahams Offering, where the Ruſs had the Arrow drawn out of his buttock, which had pierced him to the very bone, and put him to a miſerable torture before it was drawn out, being a Harpoon with 8 wickers. However he was by the diligence of an able Chirurgeon in a ſhort time cured of his Wound; and we thanked God for his delivery of us from the hands of thoſe mercileſs Tyrants, preſerving us through the dangerous floods, and bringing us to a Chriſtian People.

CHAP. IV. The fugitive Slaves brought before the General. The manner of their Encouraging their Men. Number of the Venetian Ships and Galleys. Names of the Commanders and Chieftains The Malteezes joyn with the Armade. The Turkish Fleet ſail up, endeavour to break through, are hindred by the Malteezes. The Turks throw up two Batteries. A dreadfull Engagement, and playing off the Cannon for three days together. The Turks begin to ſettle. The Stability and valour of the Venetians. The Turks looſe their Courage.

June 1656ON the 24 of Iune by break of day we got the Armade (in manner as aforeſaid) and about 8 a clock, I was brought before the General, to whom I ſignified what had paſſed as to my particular concernment, and gave him what Intelligence I could from the Turkish Fleet, who intended that day to fall down, had already reckoned the day their own, and made a Dividend among themſelves, of the Ships, Spoil, and Slaves, for which reaſon the Officers [Page] were very eager, and indeavored to haſten the Expedition. The General received me kindly, thanked me for the Information, ordered us each 50 Crowns, and ſo diſmiſſed us. So ſoon as we were come out of the Generals preſence, he ordered a Proclamation to be proclaimed and affixed to the Maſt of every Ship and Galley, That every privat perſon ſhould freely enjoy what they could get by plundering; and a ſtrict Interdiction was ſent to the reſpective Officers not to deprive or moleſt them upon pain of Death: which was no ſmall incouragement to the Marriners and privat Soldiery, At firſt the Venetians were very weak, but afterward, by the joyning of the Maltheezes and ſome Dutch, they were increaſ'd to 28 Ships of War, 24 Galleys, and 7 Galeaſſes. Their Officers were as follow.

A LIST

Of the Head-Officers and Commanders in the Venetian Armade, as they were ingaged againſt the Turks Anno 1656

Lorenzo Marcello, GENERAL.

Barbaro Badoer PROVEDITOR of the ARMADE.

Joſeppo Moroſini, ADMIRAL of the GALEASSES.

Antonio Barbaro, Captain of the Gulf.

Zuanni Marcello, LIEUTENANT GENERAL, and Captain of a Galeaſs.

The Heads, or Prime Officers of the Galeaſſes were,

Alviſe Foſcari.

Anthonio Priuli.

Marco Riva

Alviſe Bataglia

and Giacomo Loredan.

Captains of Galleys

Pietro Contarini, ADMIRAL.

M. Antonio Paſquaglio.

Pietro Quirini.

Giacomo Semiticolo.

Nicholo Muazzo.

Dioniſio Diſani.

Zorzi di Mezo

Zuanni Venier

Franceſco Vizzaemano.

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MAY. 1656

Nicholo Colergi.

Aurelio Longo.

Alviſo Baſſo.

Giacomo Polani.

Franciſco di Mezo.

Pietro Barozzi.

Zorzi Mengano.

Angelo Muazzo.

Aleſſandro Dondolo.

Thomaſo Fradello.

Z. Giacomo Quirini.

Herolamo Peſaro.

Alvize Soſcarini.

Guglielmo Avogrado.

Of the Ships of Warr the Head-Officers were,

Marco Bembo, ADMIRAL

Zuanni Contarini, VICE-ADMIRAL

Gerolamo Malepiero, RERE-ADMIRAL.

Captains of Men of War.

Z. Andora Bragadina.

Barnardo Bragadino.

Nicolo Dona.

Agoſtino Marcello.

Vincenzo Quirini.

Gerolamo Loredano.

Marco Barberigo.

Nicolo Zane.

Zuanni Corner.

Fauſtino Riva.

Zorzi Zancarat.

Franceſco Baſadono.

Franceſco Piſani

Bernardin Vizzamano Voluntiers without Pay.

Franceſco Quirini Voluntiers without Pay.

Aleſſandro Zane.

Great Perſonages and Voluntiers.

The Prince of Parma.

Zuanni Anthonio Muazzo, a youth of 13 Years.

Andrea Muazzo, aged 12 Years.

Dominico Anthonio Semiticolo.

Marco Zorzi. Pietro Gritti. Lazaro Mocenigo.

For the ſpace of one whole moneth we cruſed upon the Turkish Armade, which we waited for daily from Conſtantinople. In the mean while thoſe of Maltha came up with their Galleys to the Venetian Armada, under the Flag of the Prior of Rochel. The Turks on the contrary had 28 Men of War. 9 Galeaſſes, and 60 Galleys, thoſe of the Bey reckoned with them. The ſaid Fleet was alſo full of men, and well provided with Ammunition.

[Page]On the 23 the whole Armade came down with full Sail before the Dardanelli, as if they would direct their courſe for the Iſlands of Greece, or ſome place in the Archipellago, aiming to make a breach ſometimes at one place, and ſometimes at another; But the Venetians were too vigilant to ſuffer it; for they compoſed their Fleet in ſuch order, that the Turks could not find a Paſſage. Nevertheleſs the Maltheezes diſown'd themſelvs to be under the Standard of Saint Mark, but reſerved the Command of their own Galleys, as themſelves liſted and thought good.

On the 24 the Turks held themſelves cloſe to the Banks near the two Caſtles, mentioned before (in Pag. 80) which tended mainly to their advantage. Beſides this they had thrown up two Batteries, one upon the Corner of Barbaria, on the Anatolian Side, and another, on the Greek, or Weſtern Coaſt, from whence they play'd off their great Guns againſt the Chriſtian Navy, to work a paſſage through for their Fleet. Three days long continued they on both ſides firing with their Canon, the Admiral of the Venetians, as bearing the chief Standard; riding neareſt to the Enemy, and conſequenly ſuffered more dammage than the reſt of the Navy: for the Turks threw out great Stones with their Bombs, that they killd three men on a breſt, who ſtood very near the General. In theſe Caſtles are Guns of an incredible muſſin, and as ſome ſay, thoſe in the outmoſt Redoubts 30 inches diameter. And although there was not any hope of doing the Enemy much harm, yet the Chriſtian Fleet kept ſtill in good Order; waiting greedily for the Turkish Navy, which we thought would come out, when ours was a litle more diſabled. On the 26 they came out with full Sail, and in good Order, with ſuch a hideous roaring and ſhouting, that we could not underſtand the words of Command, nor hear one another ſpeak. Their Ships as well as their Galleys were ſo ſtow'd with men, that they were a great incumbrance to themſelves.

The Wind was now at North, and favoured the Turks ſo,The Turks have the benefit of the Wind. that the Chriſtians were almoſt blind and ſtifled with ſmoak: yet the whole Fleet kept their Poſts without giving way to the Enemy. The General to give a good example and encouragement to the whole Navy, put the Fleet in the form of a Creſcent and himſelf in the Nombril; and ſo expected the Infidels Armade: but they kept off at a conſiderable diſtance, ſtill playing off their Cannon. The Wind and ſtream [Page] which favoured them againſt us,JUNE. 1656. was alſo advantagious for us againſt the Galleys of the Bey, that were to the Rereward of us; who alſo fought couragiouſly, and held their Poſt all the while. The Venetians did all they could to cloſe up with the Turks, but could not move forward and keep their due Order, thro reaſon of the Wind, and violent Breakings of the Stream, occaſioned on purpoſe by the Turks in opening of their Fleet, that beat Strongly againſt the Chriſtian Navy. The Enemy in the mean while battered the Squadron of Marco Bembo with an inceſſant ſhooting of whole Tears and Broadſides, that all crack'd again; nor had Lazaro Mocenigo, and Gerolino Malipiero the Vice-Admiral, aſſiſted by the Prince of Parma, the leſt ſhare in this hot Ingagement. But beyond all others, memorable was the magnanimous and reſolved Valour of Bernardo Bragadino Chieftain of the Contarina, a ſmall, but a well-built Friggat: who notwithſtanding the Enemy poured out great ſhot, like Hail upon her, yet dured all the brunt of the battel thundring with her Cannon againſt the Turkish Galeaſſes, that they were forced to remove their Poſt 5 ſeveral times. An admirable rare Courage! which if it either could, or had been ſeconded, by all the Naval Forces of the Chriſtians then preſent, would have given ſuch an Overthrow to the Infidels as no Age might paralel. Nor may we forget to commemorate the good ſervice of the Dutch, who ſerved as Auxiliaries in this Naval Expedition, and behaved themſelvs very well. The Turks now ſeeing the prudent Conduct of the General, and undaunted Courage of the whole Fleet did all they could to draw off, fell down to the Seaward and retired into the Bay of Barbery, where they dropped Anchor, hoping that now they were in Sanctuary.

CHAP. V. The Wind turns in favour of the Venetians. The Turks flee and are obſtructed. The brave Courage of the Galleys of Bey. General Marcello kill'd. The manly Behaviour of Lazaro Mocenigo, who looſes one eie. Two Dutch Ships, to wit, Yet Wapen van Naſſau, and Den David en Goliath, blown up with their own Powder. The Turkish Capitana yields. The General and diſorderly Flight of the Turks. Their total overthrow, and loſs on both ſides.

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AFter the Chriſtians had long laboured to cloſe up with the Turks, JUNE. 1656. but could not effect their Intentions, for the Wind blew hard at North, and North and by Eaſt, and the ſtream ſtill falling with great Force upon their Ships and Galleys, rendred their Indeavours fruitleſs, ſo that they could not do any enterprize, than barely what was done with their Ordnance, they had reſolved to reſt a litle:The Wind turns in favour of the Chriſtians. till on a ſudden by Heavenly providence the Wind came about, and GOD, out of his unſpeakable Goodneſs, granted the Chriſtians a helping Hand, almoſt after the ſame manner, as about a Hundred Years agon in the famous Sea-fight againſt the Turks, under the Conduct of Don Iuan d' Auſtria, when the Turks had the Wind fair and favourable, till they came to engage with the Chriſtians, and then by the Divine Bounty of the Everlaſting GOD, the Wind turned to the advantage of the Chriſtian Fleet; in ſuch ſort that the Chriſtians gave them the greateſt and moſt fatal Overthrow, that ever yet was either known, or heard of, in the world. The General Marcello had no ſooner obſerved that the Wind blew a litle Southerly, but he gave Command to ſet ſail, and ſtretch the Oars, in order to give the Turks a ſudden Aſſault, which was in obedience to his Will immediatly put in practiſe. The Turks being thus ſurprized by our ſilent Attacque, and finding the Wind directly againſt them, were dreadfully diſmai'd: inſomuch that upon our entring the Bay we ſaw them by whole flocks jump over board. Some ran with their Ships and Galleys bluntly againſt the Wall, others that lay at Anchor neareſt the Sea, ſtrove to drive through the Fleet and gain the Rere; and thoſe that ſaw themſelves not able to retreat, left the Ships, and betook themſelves to ſwimming; few of which eſcaped (for there runs a ſtong Tide) and moſt of them were carried to the Seaward, that we met whole Shoals [Page] of them driving in the ſtream,MAY. 1656. and amongſt them many Chriſtian Slaves, which we took up with our Shallops. In the mean time the Turks continued their Flight, endeavoring with their Galleys to tow away ſome of the ableſt Ships, but the Venetians fell ſo furiouſly upon them that they were anticipated, and only made their eſcape with 14 which got the Caſtle for their Refuge: Lazaro Mocenigo, who was Volunteer and commanded the Sultan (formerly taken by the Turks) made in with great Courage, and cut off their Paſſage, where he lay thundring and firing his Cannon till the General Marcello broke through the middeſt of the Enemies Armade, put them into diſorder, and kept his own Fleet in good Condition holding ſtill in the Nombril or Center of the Creſcent, joyntly with the Proveditor Barbaro Ba [...]oer, the Squadron of Maltha, with the Ships and Galeaſſes of Ioſeppo Moroſini. The Right Wing (or Horn) was commanded by Anthonio Barbers, a Captain of the Gulf, the left by Pietro Contarini. The Turks ſeeing themſelves environed on every ſide with the Chriſtians, and their Paſſage obſtructed, began to fight with better courage than before, and defended themſelves very bravely, as ſometimes deſperate Soldiers do.The notable valour of the Galleys of Bey. But above all the Galleys of Bey appeared ſignally ſtout, and for their laudable behaviour and ſingular valour merited as much the Honour, as the Turkish Muſtapha the Diſhonour of the Day. But with a Lion-like Courage, and as wiſe a Conduct, did a certain Baſſi manifeſt his generous ſpirit, who was the ſame that had promiſed the Grand Seignior, to preſent him with Marcello's head, or to forfeit his own in lieu thereof (being a Greek Renegado) and aſſuredly he gave none reaſon to tax him with Remiſsneſs on his own behalf, yet fail'd in the Atchievment of his well-intended Enterprize; for when he was bound to board him, the General got aſſiſtance, and offered to enter the Baſſas Galley,The General Marcello kill'd. but was unfortunately killed with a Cannon ball, and four Gentlemen that ſtood next him. Zuanni Marcello ſeeing this, held all in ſilence, for fear of diſcouraging the Chriſtian Armada; took the Command upon himſelf, and purſued the Battel hotly after the ſame Order, till he had privately ſignified the General's death to Barbaro Badoer, Proveditor of the Navy, who without loſs of time ſtept over, and ſucceeded him, ſtill holding the ſame Order which the General had deſigned. Lazaro Mocenigo in the mean while buſy to obſtruct the Paſſage of the Turks with the Sultan, ran her unluckily [Page] upon a Sand, near the ſhoar,JUNE. 1656. and at laſt too eager in ſhooting ſet the [...]hip on fire, having a litle before loſt his Eie with a ſplinter.

The Sultan had aboard her divers Perſons of Quality and Voluntiers, who maximis ad minimos quitted themſelves well and honourably: amongſt which was, Capt. Zorzi Dadick, The Sieur Ebert, Capt. Lieutenant Gremonville, and Bernardino Canal a Reformado Captain, whereof the two laſt were irrecuperably wounded. During the Fight, was the Dutch Ship, called 't Wapen van Naſſauw under the Command of Capt. Fauſtino Riva blown up with her own Powder, as alſo another Dutch Ship called Den David en Goliath by an unfortunate ſhot in her Powder Chamber, when ſhe was ingaged with the Galleys of the Bey, and lay ſo cloſe to the ſaid Galleys that 5 of them were blown up with her. Aboard the ſame Ship were 44 Hollanders, and 22 left, being juſt the half loſt. The Prince of Parma was ſo forward that his Companions were fain to reſtrain him by force, running himſelf oftentimes into a needleſs jeopardy of his Perſon. Remarkable was that of the General Borri being aboard the Galeaſs of Marco Riva, who having his young Son by him, carried him up and down to ſee what was worthy of note. When the Night came on, they unanimouſly left off on both ſides, and all was ſtill; but the next Morning by break of day, they fell on amain, and ſeem'd for ſome hours to be equally match'd as that the Day was thought dubious, but at laſt the Turks were fain to give over,Courage of the Turkish Capitana only the Capitana held out very manfully, till the Admiral Marco Bembo came to cloſe up with his Lar-board where he ſaluted him ſo with Broad-ſides, that he was forc'd to yield as well as the reſt.

The Venetians ſeeing the Capitana yield gave a great ſhout that the Caſtle and Banks rang again, and ſo well encouraged they were that, they fell furiouſly in one entire Body upon the Saracens, that they forthwith betook themſelves to flight, and retired to the Fort, but the Chriſtians had ſo hindred their paſſage, that few of them got clear. The Sieur Barbaro Badoer who ſucceeded the General concealed his death ſo long untill that the Fight was over, and he able for to give the Fleet an account of the Enemies Overthrow, which was in the ſecond Evening, pretty late.

The Venetians having now made themſelves Maſters of ſo many Ships and Galleys, were at a loſs for Men enough to manage them,The loſs on both ſides. [Page] that they were fain to ſet the moſt part on fire, reſerving only ſuch as were left diſabled, as a token of this notable Victory, which had coſt the Common-wealth above 400 Souls, and amongſt thoſe their moſt faithfull and valiant General Marcello, whoſe (unhappy Death can never be enough lamented. The number of thoſe that were wounded was great, but uncertain. The Sultan, and the 2 Dutch, men of War, which as we have already ſaid were unfortunately deſtroyed with their own powder, was all their loſs of Shipping. They took 18 Galleys, and the Maltheezes 11 Ships, beſides 54 Ships that were burn'd: ſo that of 97 Galeaſſes, Ships and Galleys, only 14 were ſaved on the Enemies ſide. By this laudable Enterpriſe and Victory of the Venetians, above 5000 Chriſtian Slaves were reſtored to Freedom. But how many of the Infidels loſt their lives was uncertain, only by a rude conjecture, and a modeſt Calculation were computed between [...] and 6000 Men. When we went to ruminate for Spoil among their Dead we found the Fretum, or Mouth of the Dardanelli floating ſo thick with Bodies, that we could not force our Boat through; but with our Oars and Boat-hook were fain to drag and draw them behind the Shallop, which again with the force of the ſtream were thrown on heaps one above another, like Shoals of Ice, and ſo came tumbling into the Boat, in ſpite of all the means we could uſe.

CHAP. VI. The Siege of Tenedos. The two Caſtles ſurrendred. A deſcription of Tenedos, Lemnos, it's Situation, and taking in. The preſent ſtate of Greece. J. Struyſ's arrival at Pathmos and Samos. Taken by the Turks with 6 of his Companions, and ſoon after ranſom'd.

AFter this ſignal Victory, all the maimed Soldiers, together with the Corps of the General, and other Noblemen were ſent back to Venice: and the new General Badoer upon this ſuccesfull day, reſolved to fire them out of their own neſts. Purſuant thereto he ſteers away for Tenedos, which is an Iſland ſituate at the very mouth of the Propontis, or River of Conſtantinople; which is as it were the Key of the ſaid River, and Commands the Paſſage ſo, that no Ships can [Page] [Page]

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[Page] [Page] come in or out, againſt their will. There are on this Iſland two well fortified Places, the one on the South and the other on the North; both built after the beſt manner of Fortification, having Bulwarks and Walls of an incredible Thickneſs. We lay Siege to theſe, both by Sea and Land, but the main Forces we applied on the Haven-ſide,Tenedos beſieged and ſurrendred upon Articles. for the Bay is very wide, where we came to caſt our Anchors. Fourteen days long we lay battering the Caſtle with our Cannon from the Sea, at what time they put out a white Flag, and propoſed to the General certain Articles, upon which they declared themſelves free to ſurrender the Fort, the main of which Propoſals was, ‘That all freeborn Turks should be ſet upon faſt Land;’ and, ‘That all the Renegados should be at the mercy of the Chriſtians.’

The ſaid Articles were mutually counter-changed and ratified by the Heads of both Parties, and all the Turks and Moors drawn out, even the Greeks too, who were ſuffered to ſtay upon the Iſland but not within the Caſtle. The Heads of the other Caſtle ſeeing the Venetians in poſſeſſion of this, put out the White Flag and deſired Articles of Peace, which after a ſhort Treatie of Commiſſioners on both ſides were ſigned, exiſting moſtly of the ſame Tenure with the former.

Tenedos lies near the coaſt of Anatolia and is called Bouchadde by the Turks. It is of a fertile Soil, and produces plenty of Fruit,Tenedos deſcribed but eſpecially Grapes, and has good ſtore of Melons and other delicacies, which they have alſo in the Winter-ſeaſon. And according to it's ſmall extent (not exceeding 28 English miles in circuit) has abundance of Cattel. It is beſet with Hills towards the Sea on every ſide, but within arable, and fit for tillage. The General committed it to the Truſt of Seignior Loredano, a Gentleman of Venice, with a Garriſon of 700 Italians, and others.

Tenedos being now in poſſeſſion of the Venetians, Lemnos or Scalimene where ſituated. we ſet Sail for Scalimene, or Lemnos, which we found about 6 Leagues diſtant from the other, being Seated directly before the mouth of the Channel, and therefore a Place in which the Turks had repoſed great Confidence. This Iſland has ſeverall ſmall Towns upon it, as Condea, Which was of old the chief Town, and called Epheſtias. Bellon. Cochino, [Page]Palſo Caſtro, and others, beſide 75 Villages and Hamlets. When we came before the Place in order to lay Siege to it, we found a Fort having 700 men in Garriſon;Lemnos Surrendred upon dishonorable Terms. but the Sou-baſſa hearing that Tenedos was already taken in by the Chriſtian Armade, and finding himſelf incapable to defend the Place by reaſon that all communication was cut off, he deſired to treat by Deputies, and without ever a ſhot ſurrendred the Fort and Iſland upon diſhonourable Conditions.

deſcribed. Lemnos, or Scalimene as it is now called, has Thracia on the North, and the Hill Athon towards the Weſt, and as we have ſaid, lies not far from Lemnos. It is no whit inferior to any Iſland in the Aegean-Sea, for a wholſom Air, and a good Soil: it affoards all kind of Grain and Puls, as alſo Almonds, Oil, Lactuaries, and plenty of Sheep, which for their Wool is no ſmall profit to the Inhabitants: and from hence comes that excellent and uſefull Georg. Agricola in his Dialogue of Mettals intitled Bermannus givs this relation of that Earth, Paſtillos praeterea ibidem vidi ex eadem urbe portatos, coloris fere fulvi, & literis Turcicis ſignatos quos ob id Terram Sigillatam appellant: quinetiam Lemnia illa terra olim imagine caprae ſignabatur. And a litle afterward he adds this. Turcae eam un [...] peſtis remedium eſſe aſſerentes, ita magni aeſtimant, ut alter alteri muneris loco ipſam donet. See more ab [...] this excellent mineral in Dioſcorides, and in Gallens 9th Book of Simples. Earth, called Terra Lemnia, or Terra Sigillata, which is ſo highly prized by thoſe that profeſs Phyſic. The Inhabitants and Peaſantry are Greeks, which may not live in any fortified Place. In this Iſland has been a famous Labrynth, whereof the Ruins yet appear in ſome places. The chief City thereof is called alſo Scalimene, and is indifferent ſtrong. When the General left the Iſland he conſtituted a Governour and ſent ſome Ships to cruſe through the Archipelago, and urge the payment of the Arrearages in the Tributary Places, of which the Venetians were now Maſters, and light alſo upon ſuch as were free, for ſo unhappy are the Iſlands of Greece that they muſt pay Tribute both to the Turks and Venetians, which is a great oppreſſion to ſo poor a People.

Greece is at this day as fertile as ever, but is greatly deficient of it's former Power and Wealth, by the Dominion of the Turks and perpetual Wars. As for the People they are very urban and good [...] converſe with. The Cuſtomary Habit of the Merchants and Citize [...] is as follows. They wear on their Heads a long red Cap, with a fold hanging down before, and affect long hair, although ſome I have ſeen ſhorn, and with a Turbant like Mahometans. Their Breeches long and narrow demitted to the calf of the leg, and litle red boots above their ſtockings. Above all a Coat like the Perſians but without a Girdle. In ſtead of a Cloak they wear a Coat with long narrow [Page] ſleevs hanging down to the middle of the Thighs, which they ſeldome or never put their arms into. The Peaſants alſo wear long red Caps as the Merchants and Citizens, but wide linen or Cotton Breeches like Trouzers. Their Gentlewomen wear a white Silk or Cotton Sharf about their Head, hanging over their back and ſhoulders like Nuns. Their Stockings are moſtly ſcarlet and neatly embroyded, their ſhoes with litle handſom heels, and ſometimes for their more eaſy going with ſlaps. Thoſe that are of ability wear a kind of Boddice or waſt-coat of cloth of Gold, and above that an upper-Coat with long Silk ſleeves, this is girded about the middle with Ribbons. Some there are alſo which wear a ſhort ſilk Jacket or Juſticore coming down to the calf of the legs, their ſhifts hanging down 2 palms below that.

Being now as we already told you, ſent to collect Tribute, the firſt Iſland we came at was Pathmos, Arrival at Pathmos. the place where the H. Apoſtle Iohn, and the beloved Diſciple of our Lord, was confined, or baniſhed to, and where he wrote his Revelations. When we went ſhoar, they ſhow'd us a litle Chappel in the cleft of a Rock, which (as the Greeks aſcertain'd to us) was the very place where he ſaw thoſe Heavenly Viſions; as alſo a ſtone which lay above his Bed. This [...]tone the Greeks ſell, and make great profit of it, being ſtampt into powder is reputed the beſt Remedy that ever was known, for a Quartan Ague. The City Pathmos is founded upon a Hill about the middle of the Iſland, and has within it a very fair Monaſtery with the Tomb of Chryſolodos the Founder thereof. The Iſland is both Fruitful, populous and well built, on the Sea-ſide is a litle ſtrong Sconce to defend the place againſt Pyracy, but when they heard of the Over [...]row of the Turks, did not in the leſt oppoſe themſelves againſt us, [...]ing overaw'd by the Cadis.

When we had diſpatched at Pathmos, we ſteer'd away for Samos, which is an Iſland right over againſt the Gulf of Smirna, to ſee if we could meet with any Saiks, or other Turkish Shipping, and according [...] our expectation met with two rich Prizes, laden with raw Silk, and other precious Commodities.Samos. After we had Sail'd to and again for 5 or 6 days, we came to Samos to demand the Contributions as at other places. When we were arrived in this Road our Commander [...]hought good to ſupply us with Water and other neceſſaries,The Boat ſent ashoar. upon which I and 19 other of our Ships-folk were ſent aſhoar. Ten of our [Page] Company were ſent up to the Village to buy Proviſion and Refreſhments, and the reſt, amongſt whom I my ſelf was one, were to take in Water, and manage the Boat. But hardly had we taken in two Boatfulls but we ſaw a Brigandine making toward us, ſtow'd full of Men: whereupon we concluded it was no time to dally, and therefore threw our Things aboard,The Boat intercepted by the Turks. and betook our ſelvs to rowing as hard as we could drive towards the Ship. But the Turks having far more hands than we, and conſequently ſwifter at rowing, came in between us and the Ship, which lay half a Dutch League from Land. We then ſeeing litle hopes of getting aboard, wheel'd about and made towards Land; but were as hotly purſued by the Turks, and ſeeing the Brigantine within piſtol-ſhot of us aſtern, we jump'd over board and betook our ſelves to running. But when I ſaw that I could not run any longer, I was forced to ſeek a lurching place, for my feet were ſore in running through Thorns and Thiſtles. Our Commander and Folk aboard ſeeing how caſes ſtood, came nearer the ſhoar and ſhot at the Infidels with their Guns from aboard, tho they held not up to purſue us. When I had lay a litle there, I began to peep out, to ſee if the coaſt was clear, but was ſpied by 4 Turks, who were hunting after us, and ſeeing no mean to make my eſcape was forced to ſubmit. When they had tied my hands behind my back,The Author and 6 more of the Company taken. as they had done with 6 more of the Company, they dragg'd us away to the Brigadine, where coming aboard we met with more civility from the Captain than we could indeed expect. They were alſo ſo civil to us when they took us that they did not ſo much as take a rag of cloaths from us, for I had then 25 Ducats about me which I ſtill kept. The Captain, who was a perſon of a generous Spirit, and with one compaſſionat, ſeeing us in ſuch diſtreſs and conſternation, ſaid, Be not grieved for the lo [...] of your Liberty, for I will not uſe you unkindly, neither shall you ſuffer want for any thing, that is needfull if we our ſelves are able to ſupply you. However he brought us to Rhodes where the Plague raged with great violence and conſequently the Slave-market very low, for we could not yield him above 100 Pieces of Eight. But the Captain not willing to part with us at ſo low a price brought us to Great Scio, where the Turkish Armada then lay, thinking ſo to get a better Sum, but found it quite to the contrary: whereupon we pray'd him to ſell us to our own Ship. Well, ſaid he, if your Commander, or your Countreymen will buy you, [Page] [Page]

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[Page] [Page]I am content, their money is as good as another's. With this Reſolution we were brought back again to Samos, where when we were arrived, ſent a Letter to the Commander, humbly praying him that he would have the goodneſs to redeem us: upon which he made anſwer, ‘That he was well inclined to do it, but that the Ship was at that time very ſcarce of Money, and that he could not make up above 1800 Pieces of eight, which if that would redeem us 7, we might ſtrike a bargain with the Captain.’ Upon this anſwer we were very glad, and under good hopes of coming out of the Hands of the Turks. The Captain of the Brigantine obſerving that we had got an anſwer from aboard, asked us, What news? will your Commander redeem you or not? Yes, ſaid one of us, if you will be reaſonable with us, we shall find means to be redeemed, but otherwiſe not. Hereupon he demanded 2000 Pieces of eight, whereat we ſeemed to be aſtoniſhed, and bad him 800 withall declaring that our Proffer ſeemed more to the matter than his Demands; but he would not ſeem to hearken to that. We then raiſ'd it to 1000 but he told us, That it was but Labour loſt unleſs we bad ſomething more to the purpoſe, and at laſt declared, ‘That for 1300 we ſhould be redeemed, provided we would pay him that day, but if not, that the next day he would go out of Town, and ſell us to thoſe that would bid moſt, be who they will.’ We ſeeing it now brought to a good end, and ſenſible of our abilitie, of performance, took him at the word, leſt ſome other reſolution ſhould take him in the head: and preſently put out a white Flag. The Commander thereupon ſent out a Shallop,The Author and his Companions ranſomed which came rowing towards us, till they came within ſpeech of us, and underſtanding the Conditions of Redemption row'd back again to the Ship, to bring us the Money for which we had covenanted with our Patron; upon this we were again Freemen and thanked GOD for his divine bounty towards us. The other men had ſtay'd at Samos ſo long in quiet, till they were fetch'd away by the Ships Company when the Brigantine was gone.

When we had don, and diſpatched our affairs in the Archipelago, we ſet Sail towards Venice, tho our Ship was ſo leaky, that we were fain to pump continually, however by the help of GOD we arrived Safe. But by the way were forced to put in at a certain Iſland right over the City Maddonna, not daring to truſt our ſelves any longer [Page] at Sea, till we had (as well as we then and there were able) ſtop'd ſome of her leaks, which were principally at the Bow. But our Carpenter notwithſtanding all he did, could not ſtop the main leak being in the worſt place it might be in, for no great Nails would hold, inſomuch that the Commander ſet me at work to ſtop it which I did with Sail-cloth 2 or three times folded, and faſtned artificially and firm, for which he gave me a good reward.

CHAP. VII. The Author admitts himſelf again into the Service of the Venetians. Arrival at Corfu with an account of it's Strength, Bulwarks, Sconces and other Fortifications, near, and about the City. Fertility of the Iſland. Arrival at Cephalonia, it's Fertility, Situation and Strength. Arrival at Sante, an account of its Strength, its Villages, Scarcity of fresh Water. Arrival at Cerigo: Situation of that Iſland, Reliques, or Ruins of the Temple of Venus.

SO ſoon as I had received the Arrears of my Wages at Venice, I hired my ſelf again into the Venetian Armade for chief-or upper-Sail-maker, the Armade then lying before the Dardanelli. We had a Proveditor aboard us, ſo that we put in at all the Tributary Iſlands under the Seigniory of Venice, to urge the payment of the Arrearages. And in the firſt place Corfu, Corfu. an Iſland lying in the latitude of 34 degr. 45 min. The City may well be reputed one of the beſt fortified Sea-towns in Europe, being encompaſſed with a ſtrong Wall and higher than ordinary, built altogether after the modern Fortification, and well furniſhed with great Ordnance. It is moreover ſecured with two Caſtles, or rather Sconces, one towards the Sea barely named, The Caſtle, the other on the Land-ſide called, Caſtello nuovo, or New Caſtle, That Fort which lies towards the Sea is built upon a high Rock, and munited with 3 Walls and 5 Bulwarks, whereof one is built againſt the Sea, and beats off the Floods and Billows. This Sconce, or Fort, has 3 Gates, that on the Weſt is called, Porta di Caſtrado, that toward the Sea, Porta di Mandrahico, and the third Porta Real which is very narrow, and has a Draw-bridge. This Port alſo ſerves for a privat Sally in time of need, and is the place where they goe out at to the other Fort, for they can have communication [Page] and aſſiſt each other if attacqu'd,IUNE. 1657. by certain cavernal or ſubterranean paſſages, wrought through the Rocks. They lie about 1000 paces from each other and do not only ſerve for their own Defence, but alſo command the whole Iſland, and that next the Sea of ſuch power that it might over aw the Town, being well provided with all kinds of Ammonition, and Cannon which they caſt themſelves. There are beſides theſe Sconces ſeveral other Fortifications, and inferior Forts, Seated on high Rocks, and Walls proportionable to the other, encompaſſed alſo with very deep Ditches which receive their Water from the Sea. Corfu is alſo of it ſelf very ſtrong and divided into 3 ſeveral Wards as Spileo, Urio nuovo, and Spianato. The high Fortifications have no Fountain Water that is good, and are therefore fain to make uſe of Rain Water which they receive and keep in ciſterns and pits like thoſe of Amſterdam: but without the Walls of Corfu, is a certain fountain or Well which they call Cardacchio, that affoards good Water and very clear. Upon this Iſland ſtand 68 Villages and Hamlets, all reaſonably well peopl'd. The Venetian Garriſon as it then appeared by their Muſter-roll conſiſted of 400 light Horſe and 900 Infantry. The Haven is very fair and covenient, and comes to the middle of the Iſland on that ſide which faces the main Continent. On the other ſide lies Butriato a noted place for Fiſhing. On this Iſland is much Which I preſume is either the ſame, or much at one with Cavear, or Ichary prepared by the Moſcovians. Arrival at Cephalonia. Bottarge made, which is a Diſh prepared of the Roes of Sturgeon, ſalted, dried, and for the longer and better preſervation thereof dipt in Wax. Here is alſo much Oil of Olives, or Oleum omphacinum made, and the Vine well cultivated. It is alſo very fruitfull, affoarding plenty of Oranges, Lemmons, Citrons &c. beſides Honey, Wax and Salt for which Commodities this Iſland is very famous abroad.

From Corfu we ſet ſail for Cephalonia, where there is only one ſmall City, raiſed on a high ground at the South-end of the Iſland, and well fortified; but the Haven thereto belonging is large and convenient. There appear the Ruins of three other Cities, which are ſaid to be diſmantled upon the continual Jarrs of the Inhabitants amongſt themſelves and at length reduced to ſuch a poor remnant. Beſides this City is a litle Fort, in which they repoſe no ſmall truſt. It is ſituated in the latitude of 38 degr. and 29 min. and is almoſt of a triangular form. The Eaſt-end faces the Cape of Ciarenzo, Situation and Form a Promontory of [Page] Morea or Peleponeſſus. The North-point, Capo Guiſcardo, confronts with Staumara, and the weſt-angle or Capo Sidro looks toward the main Continent of Affrica: Between this angle and Ciarenza which lies to the South-weſt is a large Bay, making a fit Harbour not far from the City Cephalonia, called Argoftoli, where a great number of Ships may very commodiouſly ride at anchor. At the entrance of this Gulf is a ſmall Iſland called Guardiana, which is fortified with a little Moot or Caſtelet, which they call Naſſo. They have great ſcarcity of fresh or ſpring Water in this Iſland, which is nevertheleſs of a rich and fat Soil, and good paſturage for Sheep which there abound. It produceth alſo vaſt quantities of Grain, Wine, Oil, Manna, Wax, Honey, Flax and Silk, beſides the great plenty of Currans, which is the Staple-Commoditie of the Land.

CHAP. VIII. The Author's arrival at Sante, or Xante, It's admirable Strength, Villages, and great Scarcity of fresh Water. Their Dough for bread kneaded with Wine in ſtead of Water. Arrival at Cerigo; Situation of that Iſland. Reliques of the Temple of Venus. Arrival at Candia, with it's Situation, A Deſcription of the Citie, as to it's Strength, Inhabitants, the moſt eminent Buildings and Churches, Climat, Soil, Vintage, Fruits, Vegetables, Cattel, Fowl, Plenty of Silk and other Commodities, as alſo the modern Habit and Attire of the Candians. A Deſcription of Standia. The famous Fight between Lazaro Mocenigo and the Tributary Auxiliaries of Argiers, Tripoli, Theunis and Zoëli. The Fort of Zouaſchi taken in by the Proveditor Mocenigo. The Turks attacque Tenedos, but in vain. The Turkish Armada come out of the Dardanelli. The Beginning of the Ingagement. The Turkish Emperour comes with an Army of 20000 Horſe, and 80000 Foot down to the shore, where from a high Tent he ſees' the Ingagement. The Turks looſe their Poſts, and Sail off. The incomparable valour of Mocenigo and Bembo, who are unluckily killd by the fall of a Sail yard. Their Galley blown up with 400 Men. The Loſs and Gains on both ſides.

THe Proveditor which we had aboard not willing to looſe much time, made but ſhort delay at Cephalonia, for he had not much time to ſpend according to his Order and Inſtructions to go to the Armade, wherefore after a ſhort aboad we ſet Sail, and ſteer'd away for Xante.

[Page] Xante is an Iſland lying in the latitude of 38 degr. about 13 [English] leagues from Cephalonia. On this Iſland is a City conteining about 4000 Houſes, or rather Cottages, without chimneys, that they ſay, is by reaſon of frequent Earthquakes, of which they are in daily jeopardy: but the Muniments as well in reſpect of Site, as Strength are very conſiderable; for the Cittadel is built upon a high Hill, and what by Nature and what by Art,Strength of Xante. ſeems to be almoſt inacceſſible, well provided alſo with Ordnance and Ammunition of War ſuitable. On this Iſland are ſeveral Capes, the moſt eminent whereof are Capo del Guardo on the South, and Capo de Tiri on the Eaſt: between which two Capes lies a Commodious Harbour, called Porto de Chietto, which has a good Road for Anchorage at 8 fathom Water. Xante has 45 Villages and Hamlets whereof the moſt principal lie toward the Sea, to wit, St. Chietto, Littachia, Pigalachia, Villages Sculicado, Saint Nicholo and Natte. The laſt of theſe has a Harbour fit to receive 100 Galleys. In the hilly part of the Iſland are ſeveral Convents, Cloyſters and Religious Houſes of the Greek Church, who have alſo a Bishop here as well as the Romaniſts, but the Greeks exceed the Italians in number, and conſequently have their Religion in greater ſplendour. You are no ſooner come ashoar but you are met by a parcel of Iews, who shall ask you if you have any money to change. Theſe deal in any contemptible Traffic, but eſpecially in Slaves, when any Turkish Saiks, or other Shipping is brought up by English, French or Hollanders.

Xante is of a very fertile Soil and fruitfull, in nothing inferiour to Cephalonia, yet exceeds it in Quality and Plenty of Wine,Fertility of Soil. Scarcity of Water. Dough moiſtned with Wine. but yet ſcarcer of Water, inſomuch that the Inhabitants are ſometimes conſtrained to knead their Dough with Wine, whereof they make their Bread. Here is alſo prepared the delicate Botarges, eſpecially in Iuly and Auguſt, when the Sturgeon comes from the Archipelago. The Land is very populous, and all go armed; ſo that when the Turkish Corſairs ſend ſome men aſhoar to take Slaves, do frequently change Fates with them: and for that end the Venetians maintain 70 or 80 Horſe, day and night to ride about the Coaſt. We alſo brought hither ſome new Infantry to relieve the old.

From Xante we ſail'd to Cerigo which lies in 36 degr. and 45 min. directly over againſt Capo Saint Angelo, before the Gulf of Colochino;Arrival at Cerigo [Page] on the other ſide it has Candia about 13 Leagues diſtant, inſomuch that the Italians ſay,It's Situation. Congo is a good Corps du guarde and a Lanthorn for the Chriſtians to enter the Archipelago. On the ſouth-eaſt ſide is a ſtrong Fort built upon a proclive Rock, and has but one way to enter it. The nether-City is populous enough; and the Inhabitants very diligent in their reſpective callings. Here they ſhow'd us the Foundations and Ruins of a famous Temple dedicate to the Goddes Venus, Ruins of the Temple of Venus. in the times of Gentiliſm. The Land is very hilly, but the Valleys rich and fertile, having one Well of very good Water. The Inhabitants are chiefly Greeks, except the Garriſons, and the Governour, who is always a Venetian Nobleman.

Candia.From Cerigo we ſet ſail for Candia the renowned City of Crete, which now is alſo called Candia. The Iſland lies about 47 degr. Northerly latitude, and is about 200 English land-miles in length, lying almoſt Eaſt and Weſt. It has many Creeks, and abundance of fair Cities, of which the moſt noted are Candia, Canea, Retimo, Sitio, Apicormo, Chyſamo, Melipotamo, Garahuſe, beſides a great number of unwalled Towns, which they ſay amount to 650, all the inferior Villages and ſmaller Granges excluded out of the number. The whole Iſland has been heretofore under ſubjection of the Venetians, but at that time when I was there, the Turks were Maſters of all except the City Candia it ſelf, which was then under the Venetians and a few ſtrong Holds as appendences on the Town, which they held (as is univerſally known) for a conſiderable time together againſt the Ottoman Forces. The Fortifications have been and are frequently altered, according to the Diſcretion of the reſpective Governours: and is from the very firſt Foundation famous for it's admirable rare Site, and natural ſtrength. It lies in a fair flat Countrey: the Eaſt and North Angles fronting the Sea.Strength of Candia Upon that Angle which lies to the northward was an impregnable Fort or Caſtle, which had not only all the Fortifications that could be thought uſefull, or any way advantageous for the Town, but alſo the Sea for a further ſtrength, which encompaſſed it as a Mote. The ſame Caſtle has not only the Command of the Haven, but alſo the Sea on both the right and left ſide. Between this Caſtle and the City was a Wall of 20 foot broad, on which the Soldiers marched, from the one to the other. Beſides this the Town was munited with divers Ramparts, Bulwarks and other Fortifications [Page] without; that it ſeemed to me at that time, and ſince, the greateſt folly in the World, for the Turks to ſpend ſo much Treaſure and looſe ſo many of their beſt Soldiery in ſuch a long Siege, and ſo little hopes or encouragement of taking it in; although at laſt they are become Maſters of it. The Citizens are Greeks, as are moſt of the Inhabitants throughout the whole Iſland; but the Garriſons and Gentry, Venetians; beſides a great Concurrency of Strangers from all parts of the Levant, which make the City very populous. The moſt eminent Buildings, are the Pallace of the General, that of the Biſhop, which for its Antiquity and magnificent work is well worth ſeeing, the Pallaces of ſeveral Noblemen, and the Churches, which are 8 in number, to wit, St Mark, St Francis, St Paul, St George, St Mary, St Catharine, St Rochus and St Titus amongſt which the firſt is the Cathedral. The Greeks have alſo their Churches, but thoſe ſo mean, that the beſt which is allowed them is much inferior to the pooreſt of thoſe which the Romans reſerve for their own uſe. Beſides theſe there is not much in the City worth Obſervation. As to the long Siege and Storming of this City 't were needleſs for me to give you any account, ſince it has been from the very beginning traced along, and fully written by others.

The Air of Candia is temperate enough,Climat, but on that ſide facing Affrica is ſomething hot, and rendred unwholſom by ſoutherly Winds: for which reaſon moſt of the Towns are built on that ſide of the Iſland which lies next to the Archipelago. Soil, The Soil is exceeding good, and all kinds of Grain and Pulſe take kindly well, inſomuch that ſometimes, one piece of ground affoards two Crops in one year. Yet the Inhabitants are more inclinable to the planting and cherishing of the Vine, which they cultivate with all imaginable diligence, that being far more profitable than the propagation of Grain and other Husbandry, their Malmſey,Vintage. Red and white Wines being exported every where, and reputed the beſt that Earth can produce. But they have two ſorts of Malevaiſe or Malmſey, differing greatly both in taſt and quality: the better ſort is that which grows about Retimo, that they boil ſo ſoon as the Grape is ripe, and are very curious in the preparation and ordering of it; but that about Candia and Canea, but ordinary, for there they let the Grapes be rath ripe before they pluck' em, and therefore boil them not: but the Wine that comes [Page] from them has a kind of ſlimy matter in it of which it, is not to be purified. Here I have ſeen the Wine-ſtocks grow thicker, than any where elſe, which is a great Argument of the excellent Soil, with which this Iſland is bleſſed; and beſides that the vaſt bigneſs of the Bunches,Huge and delicate Grapes. weighing moſtly 8 or 10 pound a piece, and thoſe ſo delicate that after I had once taſted of theſe could not for ſome years after ſo much as taſt the Spanish. And not only Grapes, but alſo every other fruit the Land affoards is paſſing good and delicate, inſomuch that not only the Turkish Emperour but all the Princes and Potentates near this Iſland have their Fruits from hence for Table uſe and Banquet. Whole Groves and Woods I have ſeen ſeveral Leagues in compaſs, having little or nothing but Trees bearing the beſt kinds of Fruit, as Citrons,Vaſt plenty of Fruit. And of Cypreſs Wood. Pomegranates, Oranges, Apricocks, Figs, Almonds, Olives and many ſorts of Apples, Pears, and Nuts. Cypreſs wood is in this noble Iſland in greater plenty than in Cypres it ſelf, which they do not only uſe for Timber, which gives a very amiable ſmell, but alſo for Fewel. The Common paſturage which the Inhabitants neither uſe for Grain nor the Vine, is all grown over with Roſemary, Thyme, Camomile, Abroton, or Southern Wood, and other Herbs which the Apothecaries uſe. Nay, the very Weeds which with us have no ſent, affoard here a moſt amiable flavour, for which Candia is often called an Earthly Paradiſe.Cattel and Fowl Wild and Tame. All kind of Cattel like well, eſpecially Sheep and Goats which run together in incredible Flocks. Hares, Coneys, Heath-hens and Partridges abound here. The Woods and Hills are ſtored with 3 or 4 ſorts of Deer, and the Rivers with Fish.Fish. The Honey which Candy affoards is preferred before all other in the World, and that by reaſon of the abundance of Thyme and other choice Herbs; as alſo the various Bloſſoms of Pomgranats, Citrons, Oranges, &c. and conſequently Wax is a great Commodity amongſt them. The Land 'tis true affoards not only Salt and Lactuaries for the Inhabitants themſelves, but alſo for the neighbouring Iſlands in the Archipelago, whence they draw conſiderable profit. But far greater profit they have from their Silk, for Mulberries grow here in vaſt plentie, of which every School-lad knows the Silk-worm is fed and nouriſhed. Cotton, Wool, Honey, Wine, Vinegar and Fruits are exported hence to every Maritim Countrey in Europe. [Page] As for the Candians (or Which St Paul ſeem'd to take notice of in his Epiſtle to Titus Biſhop of Crete, citing that of Epimenides. [...]. Sec. Tit. 1.12. Standia a ſmall Iſland not inhabited. Cretians) they are naturally inclined to Lazineſs, and more addicted to vouluptuous lives than their neighbours; They are alſo great affecters of a glaſs of Wine, yet not ſo eaſily ſubdued, as the Phlegmatic Hollanders. As for their Habit, thoſe that are of the beſt quality ape the Venetians, the vulgar ſort and Peſantry retain ſtill the old Greekish mode, only their heads are for the moſt part ſhaved, which to ſupply they wear a thin Silk vail, about the breadth of an ordinary handkercheif, and above that a great, heavy hat.

Our Proveditor having finiſhed his Charge at Candy, we ſet ſail and ſteer'd away for Standia an Iſland, lying about 2 or 3 Leagues from the North-coaſt, but not inhabited; However the Venetians in their ordinary Courſe and Traverſe through the Archipelago put in here, becauſe of it's commodious Road or Bay; and therefore uſed as a Rendevouz for the benefit of Communication. After we had lay at anchor a few days we weighed and ſail'd with the whole Fleet for the Dardanelli to give the Turks battail: But I muſt mind you, how that by the way we met with a Squadron of Ships, which were ſent by thoſe of Argiers, Tripoli, Thunis and Zoile, for the Aſſiſtance of the Turkish Armada. So ſoon as we had got ſight of them, we put out Turkish Colours and hover'd a little, that they might come up to us; which they ſeeing made all the Sail they poſſibly could, till they came near us, at what time they began to ſuſpect that they had got a wrong Sow by the tail, and ſo indeavoured to go off: but Lazaro Mocenigo, the General ſeeing them ſteer to the ſtarboard, made towards them, and coming within Cannon ſhot fired a Gun, which did ſo diſorder them, that they thought better to ſtay together in one entire Fleet and try their valour, than to break their Squadron, and accordingly put themſelves in a convenient Poſture, in order to receive Battel.Lazaro Mocenigo [...]ights the Argierines Tripolezes, &c. Upon this fell a very hot Ingagement: which laſted more than a full Watch; by which time the Venetians had taken and ſunk 4 Ships, 3 whereof were of their firſt Rate, and the remainder being 12 in all, were fain to betake themſelves to the Turkish Havens, but were ſo diſabled that they were not in a long time fit either for Sailing or Service. After this fortunate Enterpriſe, the General ſail'd directly for Zouaſchi, being a ſtrong and well fortified Sea-Town,Takes in Zouaſch and a Neſt of Turkish Pyrats, lying on the coaſt of Anatolia: which after a ſhort attacque we [Page] took in and plundered. From hence we departed for Tenedos where to our great Joy we had the report, which we heard before our departure from Venice confirmed; which was, That the Turks were ſadly foil'd in in their attacquing of that Iſland, which we had taken in not long before (as was ſaid Pag 91) The Sum of the Attacque was after this manner. When the Turks had got notice that Tenedos was ſurrendred to the Venetians, they ſent a Fleet conſiſting of 33 Galleys, 3 Galeaſſes and ſeveral Brigantines to retake it, where ſo ſoon as the ſaid Fleet was arrived they lay Siege to the Caſtles both by Water and by Land,Tenedos beſieged by the Turks. but were at laſt fain to remove the Siege, leaving ſome Hundreds of Dead behind them upon the Iſland, beſides all the damage which the Fleet received, who alſo according to the relation given us muſt neceſſarily have many Dead and Wounded. When they ha [...] drawn off the Siege and imbarqued their Land-forces, the Weathe [...] grew very tempeſtuous, and the Sea boiſtrous high, inſomuch that 3 Galleys and 4 Saiks were caſt away and few of the men ſaved.

July. The Turkish Armada comes out of the Dardanelli. The IngagementFour moneths long we tarried at Tenedos before the Infidel Armade came out, which happened on the 27 of July. Their Fleet conſiſted of 33 Galleys (amongſt which was one of an unwonted greatneſs called the Royalio) 9 Maons, 22 Ships and 150 Saiks, with a huge number of Soldiers and Marriners. At the Approachment the Turks weather'd us and kept to the Windward, and indeavoured to break our Order, but the Venetians to get the Advantage of the Wind, tacked and turned ſo long that they brought the Turks to the Lee-ward, which having gain'd they fell upon the Enemy very hot, and with the dawning of the day made the Turks yield their Poſts and betake themſelves to the Cape of Troy, upon which the Fight ceaſed till the next morning, when the Ingagement held on ſharper and heavier than the day before. The Turks for a while had the advantage of the Wind, which nevertheleſs turned againſt them, as it did the year before, about the ſame place (mentioned Pag. 75) Meanwhile Who was afterward ſtrangled by a Sicilian. Gentlemen. Oron then Primo Vizier of the Turkish Empire, came down to ſecure the Strand, with an Army of 20000 Cavalry and 80 Thouſand Foot, and ſet down near Troy, where he had cauſed two Sconces to be made, as well as the ſhortneſs of this Warning would allow. The Maltheezes were the firſt that drew on to give battel, and ſo ſeconded by the Venetians. The Ottoman Armada knowing that the Emperour was [Page] himſelf a Spectator (who together with the Primo Vizier, JVLY. 1657. ſtood upon a high Tent made on purpoſe) behaved themſelves admirably well.The Grand Scignior comes to See the Fight. However the Venetians (without reſpect to the Land Forces which battered them heavily with their Cannon) came ſo cloſe to the Enemies Fleet, and withall ply'd their Guns ſo rank that they ſtranded ſeveral of their Galleys, upon which the Men ſtept aſhoar and joyn'd themſelves to the Land Army. The Primo Vizier ſeeing the Fleet continually looſe men, partly by their forſaking the Navy, and partly by the great Slaughter aboard the Shipping, uſed his utmoſt diligence to ſtop the Deſerters, and recruit the Naval Army, but all to little advantage; for the Chriſtians purſued their Enterprize with ſuch an ardency and vigour, that they prevented them: and not to be ſlack when ſuch an apt occaſion preſented, fired and ſunk a conſiderable number of the Galleys and Saiks, the Turks ſtill retiring further and further towards the Coaſt. And ſuch was the Zeal of the renowned Mocenigo, when he ſaw them cloſe to the Coaſt, he made an intercourſe with 3 Ships and 5 Galleys, to fetch them off, that he made himſelf an unavoidable ſcope for the Enemies Cannon at Land, which was ſo tended againſt his Galley that ſhe took Fire, and himſelf with the valorous Marco Bembo Admiral of the Ships,The bold attempt of Mocenigo and Bembo in which they are both kill'd. both killed with the fall of a Yard, upon which of an inſtant the Galley was blown up with 400 Souls aboard. This fatal miſchance was ſeconded by another, which was a Galley that ſank outright. This was all the loſs that the Venetians ſuffered, as to Shipping in general. The Turks loſt 6 Galleys, 4 Ships, 4 Mahons and 50 Saiks. The reſt drew off indeavouring to conjoin with the Land-forces where the Proveditor Badoer, who by due courſe and reverſion carried the Standard of S. Mark, gave them an egregious blow, and ſunk, burn'd and and took ſeveral Galleys and Saiks; which ended, the Venetians ſet ſail for Tenedos, where they repair'd their damages. The Turks according to their own confeſſion loſt between 8 and 9 Thouſand Men beſide 600 and odd Captives, amongſt whom was an eminent Bashaw, and delivered 567 Chriſtian Slaves.

CHAP. IX. The Venetian Armade appear before Napoli di Malvazia, where they attacque a Redoubt, which is ſurrendred. The City treats with the Governour. The Fleet appears before Santorini; 2 terrible Earthquakes: Wine good and cheap. The Author ſent ashoar to buy Proviſion. The Fleet under Sail. The Turks come upon the Iſland, & the Author in danger of being made Slave; hidden by the Greeks, and brought Embro to with a Barque. Arrival before Nicſia, The Ruins of Apollos Temple. Arrival at Metelino, it's Situation and Strength; plenty of Marble, Cypres wood, Wine, and Cattel. Nicſia the Winter-haven for the Turkish Galleys. S. Georgia de Scyro. Delos: Reliques and Ruins of Heathenish Temples and Images of Apollo, Minerva and Diana. The Caſtle of Tenos blown up with it's own Powder. The Iſland Milo, it's Situation, Strength, Harbours, Inhabitants, Religion, ſtore of Proviſion and Victuals. The Ship De Princes, ſprings a leak. The Author goes aboard a Privateer, leaves her and goes for Holland.

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IVLY. 1668.AFter we had repaired our Dammages, caulked and trimmed our Ships and Galleys, refreſhed and ſupplied our ſelves with neceſſaries,Arrival of the Fleet before Napoli di Malva [...]ia. we left Tenedos, and came before Napoli di Malvazia with our whole Fleet, conſiſting of 36 Ships of War, 6 great Galeaſſes, and 40 Galleys; ſome of which laſt belonged to Rome, and others to Maltha.

Napoli di Malvazia is a City ſituate in the Bay of Morea, right over againſt Canea, on a barren Rock, cloſe to the main Continent, to which it is annexed with a ſtone-bridge, upon that was a ſtrong Redoubt, fortified with 12 large Braſs Guns, which ſtood very well for the ſafeguard of the Town, and ſerved in place of a Cittadel. Our General immediately gave order to approach the ſaid Redoubt with our Galeaſſes,The Redoubt battered, and break it with our Cannon; which was accordingly done. The whole day we lay battering it on both ſides, with a ſtrenuous reſolution, till towards night the Soldiery within ſaw that they could not hold out any longer to defend themſelves, left the Fortlet, and retreated into the Town; which we perceiving ſcaled the Walls and took away the Ordnance. The reſt of the Ships and Galleys drew up cloſe to the Kay,and scaled. where the Ordnance (from the Top of a Rock where they were placed, and in which they repoſe their main Truſt) could do us no miſchief, for they ever ſhot beyond us. When [Page] we had made a great Breach through the Wall, the General gave Charge that the Soldiers, with the help of ſome of the Marriners ſhould ſtorm the Town that night. Upon this mandate all the beſt and moſt reſolute Seamen joyntly with the Soldiery, went aſhoar and entered the City, but the Governour ſenſible, that the Redoubt was diſabled, the Bridge broken down, Communication hindred on the Land ſide, the whole Fleet before the Town on the Water-ſide, our Men in the City, the Garriſon ſcarce of Men, and ſummarily not in a capacity to defend himſelf, at laſt puts out a white Flag, and ſo treated with the General: but what the ſum or purport of that Treaty was, we could not learn, for the matter was held privy; and whether the General had betray'd his Truſt, in making of a diſadvantageous Covenant for lucres ſake, or ſome other ſtrange affair occurr'd at that time, I cannot reſolve my Reader; certain I am that a Truce was made between them, for we fired not a Gun after the Deputy left the Ship. It ſeemed to us no ſmall wonder, that ſo brave an Enterprize ſhould be abandoned at ſuch a rate, without ſo much as repairing the loſs, that the Common-wealth ſuffered in this ſhort Attacque, eſpecially, that being one of the moſt eminent and abſolutely the moſt convenient Place for an Aſylum, or refuge, upon occaſion: and not only commands all the maritim Towns of Canea, but is likewiſe the only Magazine of the whole Land, through which all Wares and Merchandiſes are tranſmitted, coming from Sea; and is in ſhort the Key of that Gulf. But this is a Chapter too hard for me to read, and the myſteries of ſuch Politicians are ſometimes ſo abſtruſe, as every head cannot penetrate or unriddle.

When we had removed the Siege of Napoli di Malvazia, Zantorini. we ſet ſail for Zantorini, which is a fertile Iſland, but ſubject to Earth-quakes and influence of Meteors. In the year of Grace 1507 happened a dreadfull Earth-quake, which deſtroyed one Moyety of the Place, and ſubverted all the Strand-countrey: and afterwards in the year 1653 happened another, which deſtroyed another Mediety, or half of what was left, at what time not only Men and Beaſts, but alſo whole Mountains and Villages were waſhed away with the inundation of the Sea. There are at this day many of the Inhabitants which are ſtrucken blind with Lightning. It is bad coming to anchor about this Iſland, by reaſon of the ſteepneſs near the Coaſt, having within a [Page] Piſtol-ſhot from the ſhoar upwards of 70 or 80 fathom Water. Here is the Staple for Cotton-ſtockings, which are fine and very well woven, and ſo cheap that you may buy them at 6d a pair ſingle. Wine is here likewiſe incredibly cheap and good, being ſold at half a Piece of eight the Bariglia, and all kinds of Proviſion proportionably.Which is a meaſure containing about 6 quarts leſs than half a Hogshead. This moved our Commander to ſend me aſhoar to buy ſome Sheep and Wine, and accordingly I went to a Village that was about two miles from the Fleet, where I was no ſooner arrived but I heard the Admiral fire a Gun, at which I was mainly perplex'd, for I knew by that, that the Fleet was ready to depart, and ran as faſt as ever I could towards the ſhoar: but before I could come there, they were under ſail. When I ſaw that there was no hopes to get to the Fleet, I turned back, but not without fear of being taken, knowing that this Iſland was but 3 or 4 leagues from Scio, and that it was often viſited by the Turks. After I had been here 4 days and as many nights, came 2 Turkish Brigantines to receive Contribution-money, which I underſtanding ran into the Woods to hide my ſelf, but it ſeems one Pick-thank or other had told them that a Venetian was left aſhoar (perhaps to excuſe them of their Quota) they began to make inquiry after me; and would needs inſiſt upon the Greeks to be reſponſible for me; they told them that I had made my eſcape by night in a Barque; which nevertheleſs would not pacifie them till they had dawbed the Captain in the Fiſt, which cloſed his Eies and ſhut his Mouth effectually. So ſoon as the Brigantines were out of ſight, the Greeks fearing ſome trouble might enſue, brought me with a Barque to Embro, where the Venetian Fleet lay, and gave me my Proviſion aboard with me which I had bought for 32 Rix-dollars. Upon my arrival the Commander gave them 2 Pieces of eight for their pains, and glad he was to receive me ſo, and they no leſs joyfull to be rid of me; for the Turks had already taken a Civil Magiſtrate of the Greeks into cuſtody, with his Son being but a child, who might upon my being found there, after they had denied me, have had hard meſure; and they nevertheleſs forced to deliver me up at laſt; which if they had, the Admiral of the Venetians would have plundered the Town, and taken them all for Slaves; ſo that theſe poor People are in a worſe and a more pitifull ſtate under both, than they would be, if they were entirely under one.

While we lay before Embro, the Fleet was divided into two parts, [Page] and ſent for the reſpective Iſlands to get in the Contributions: the one part went for Stampalia, or Aſtypalaea, which is one of the Cyclades, and from thence to Nicſia, an Iſland about 7 Dutch leagues in length,Arrival at Nicſia. and as many in breadth, for it is almoſt four Square: the North-ſide is montanous, but towards the South flat and arable. On this Iſland are ſeveral Reliques of Gentiliſm and Idolatry; and amongſt thoſe a famous Temple, in times paſt ſacred to Apollo, now dedicate to S. Salvador. On the South we ſaw the Ruins of another Temple, built alſo to the Honour of Apollo. The Inhabitants are Greeks, Ruins of Apollo's Temple. Iews and Turks, who are ſedulous Planters and Cultivaters of the Vine, the land anſwering their Induſtry with a fertile Soil. The City which is called alſo by the name of Nicſia, lies on the Eaſt-ſide of the Iſland, having a very fair and commodious Haven, preſenting for all Winds, and fit to contain Ships of the greateſt burthen. Here is found a kind of black ſtone which is held in great eſteem, not much unlike the vulgar Touch-ſtone, called by the Italians, Smeriglio.

In our Courſe through the Aegean Sea we touched at Parus, Lero, Arrival at Metellino, or Mytilene Embroa, Pſyra, and viſited Metellino, where I had been the year before, and was tranſported thence to the Venetian Armada, in a Candian Tartan, making by the way a good booty, as you will find more amply related in Pag. 76 & ſeqq. but now I found better opportunity and leiſure to take notice of the Iſland than before. Metellino lies in 48 degr. near the main Continent of Greece, and from the neareſt point hardly 3 English leagues diſtant. The City which alſo bears the ſame name, is ſituated on the North-weſt ſide of the Iſland, fortified with a Caſtle that commands 2 Havens, and is called Moliva.

There are beſides this ſeveral ſtrong Holds and fortified Places throughout the whole Iſland. The South-and North-ſides are Champain Land; but the Eaſt and Weſt for the moſt part hilly and montanous, affoarding rich Quarries of white and black Marble; and about the Center of the Land it is woody, and moſtly grown over with Cypres Trees. The arable part of the Land which is tilled, is of a good Soil, and affoards plenty of Corn, of which they make two Sorts of bread, the one they call Trachana and the other Bouchourt, either of which is more durable than our Ship Biſcake. They make an excellent ſort of red Wine, which the Turks, notwithſtanding the voice of their Alchoran, greatly covet and ſwallow when they can have [Page] it. The Paſtures ſwarm with all kinds of Cattel both great and ſmall; in which,Good ſtore of Cattel. by reaſon of their very great abundance, they hold commerce with the Iſlands of the Aegean Sea; but eſpecially in a breed of ſmall Horſe they have, which are in good eſteem abroad.

After we had done our affairs at Mytilene we went for great Scio but being by the way warned of ſome Fiſhermen, that the Turks had landed a great number of Soldiery there, we ſail'd paſt the Iſland, and put in at S. Giorgio di Scyro which is a ſmall Iſland lying in 47 degr. 23 min. being almoſt of a triangular form,Scyro. where the Inhabitants follow the Vineyard.Delos. Leaving Scyro, we ſail'd directly for Delos, which now for the moſt part goes by the name of Sdilly and lies in the latitude of 47 degr. The Iſland is at preſent of no great note: only that it is viſited by the curious in Antiquities. Here we found many Ruins of Temples, and Altars, ſacred to Heatheniſh Deities, and the Image of Apollo, which is in two pieces, whereof (as the Greeks told us) the English ſaw'd off the Head, and carried it away. But ſo much as remains of it I have drawn, as may be ſeen in the Print. There appear yet the Ruins of 3 Temples more, to wit, of Apollo, Minerva and Diana, beſides ſeveral pieces of Marble and Alabaſtre, in various figures of Animals, as Lions, Leopards, and the like. Here are alſo many Quarries of a rich ſort of Marble, and various kinds of Alabaſtre. Proviſion may be had at very eaſy rates, Hares and Coneys are for their plenty held in diſeſteem by the Inhabitants. Agriculture is a thing quite out of uſe, but the greateſt profit it yields the Venetians is the conveniency of the Haven, which ſerves them for a Rendevouz.

The Caſtle of Tenos blown up with it's own Powder.Between Delos and Andros lies the Iſland Tenos, where there is a Caſtle built upon a high Hill, that ſeems of it ſelf ſufficient enough to defend the whole Iſland. In the year 1656 was the greateſt part of this Caſtle blown up with its own Powder by Lightning, at what time, I was in the Fleet not far from Delos, and ſaw it. I beleeve alſo that a great part of this Iſland is overflown with the Inundation of the Sea, as Zantorini, or rather ſunk: for when we came to anchor at 26 fathom Water, we wrought all we could to weigh, but thought verily that the Cable would break before any anchor would looſe; at laſt it was reſolved to try once more for the laſt, and if it would not then come, to cut the Cable, but at laſt the anchor came, bringing a great [Page] [Page] [Page] peece of a Wall with it. In the Gentile age was a Bath at Tenos, IULY. 1668. where every one of what rank or quality ſoever he was, muſt waſh himſelf, or otherwiſe, it was not lawfull for him to enter the Temples of Apollo, Minerva, or Diana. Tenos is of it ſelf fruitfull enough and would produce more grain than indeed it does, if the Inhabitants were inclined to that Tillage, but they find more profit in Silk, having large Woods of Mulbeery Trees, ſo that this Iſland is the chief place for Silk Stockings in the Levant.

After we had ſtaid a few daies at Tenos, we ſet ſail further up,Milo, it's Situation and by the way put in at Milo. Which lies in 37 degr. and 21 min. It is in length about 7 Leagues, tending North and South. Amongſt the many convenient Havens it hath, there is one on the Weſtern coaſt,Havens. where Ships may ride in the hardeſt weather that is,Villages, without either Anchor or Horſer. The Villages on this Iſland are very neat and cloſe built; and is alſo fortified with two ſtrong Holds which command the Sea on each ſide the Iſland.Strength. The Inhabitants are ſome of the Greek church, but ſpeak moſt Italian, And Religion of the Inhabitants. for that it is much frequented by the Venetians, and other Italians of whom the Women of this Iſland (as they ſay) learn the Language between Sheets, which their wanton deportment ſeems to verify Common fame gives Milo the bell for able Sea-men and Fiſhers, who for both thoſe faculties do the Venetians no ſmall ſervice. And here is the prime place for the Armada to Water at, where they alſo generally provide themſelves with Bread, Oil, Salt, Wine and Vinegar. There is alſo much Honey found in this Iſland, but wild, in the Rocks and Hollow-Trees.

Thus Traverſing to and again, to and from the Iſlands, our Ship, The Princes, grew very leaky, ſo that we were affraid, that if we ſhould be taken in a Tempeſt ſhe would not hold out, which our Mate obſerving, willed the Commander to acquaint the Admiral with her Condition, which he did; and thereupon we were diſmiſſ'd, and the Venetians aboard us received order to go aboard other Ships. Having taken our leave of the Fleet with a Gun or 2, we ſpeeded us for Venice, where not without much difficulty we arrived. Here I took my leave of the Ships-folk, and went into a Privateer called the St. Iohn, which was firſt intended for Legorn: but by the way underſtanding that our Captain, whoſe name was Herman Been had 3 Commiſſions and went for a General Caper, I took my leave of the [Page] Gentleman,JULY 1657. ſo ſoon as we arrived at Leghorn; the more becauſe he had already made a beginning, and converted the Goods intruſted him by ſome Merchants into a Prize and Booty, thought it therefore beſt to leave him betimes, leſt I ſhould be brought with him to pay the ſhot. The Captain ſeeing that others, with me, were reſolved to leave the Friggat, and ſo conſequently, he in danger of being betray'd, and to be called to an account for his Villany, begins to ſet ſail, but by an Order from the Duke, the Ship was arreſted at the inſtance of Captain W. van der Saar, and Capt. de Wilde who then lay at anchor in that Haven. The Ship was brought up and chain'd, the Ships-folk ſet free, and the Captain himſelf committed to Cuſtody, where for ſome time h [...] remained: till afterward coming for Holland was taken Priſoner; but what became of his Friggat I could never come to hear. After I had been at Leghorn 2 or 3 days, I hired my ſelf aboard Mr, Peter Veldmuys; with whom, after many perillous adventures, I returned home to my native Countrey.

THE THIRD VOYAGE of JOHN STRUYS.

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CHAP. I. The Author undertakes his Third Voyage for Moſcovia. The Names of the Officers and others employed with him on that Journey and Voyage. Their Difficulties in going out. Arrival at Riga, with a Deſcription of the Town, and their Departure from thence. The Nature of the Lifelanders their Houſes, Cuſtomes, Condition, Religion, and quaint form of an Oath. Arrival at Wolmar, with a Deſcription thereof. Their difficult Travels through Lifeland.

THus by Divine Preſervation I arrived in my own Countrey,SEPT. 1668. after the expoſal of my Body to ſo many Jeopardies and Perils, and now began to weigh the great Felicity of a ſettled life, and the many Dangers which attend ſuch a manner of Living as I had unadviſedly made choice of, to the great diſcontent of my Friends and Alliance: I therefore purpoſed with a new Reſolution to follow my honeſt Vocation at home, and enjoy that Tranquility of Body and Mind, which I then preferred in my Thoughts beyond a reſtleſs and diſquiet Wandring abroad. Purſuant to this my Intention I married after I had been about 6 Moneths at home, and ſo continued in that ſtate, for the term of 10 years during which time I found but poor advancement in my Fortune, and mean Products of ſo many years hard labour and toil; ſo that I reſolved to take the very firſt opportunity [Page] I met with to ſee what was reſerved for me in the Cabinet of Chance abroad. and,

In the year 1668, I came to underſtand that ſome Gentlemen were ſent from the Czar of Moſcovy to Amſterdam, to take on men into the ſervice of the Emperour, for equipping ſome Ships in the Caſpian Sea, and ſo to promote the Trade between Moſcovia and Perſia, by Shipping of his own, which otherwiſe till then was done by Perſians, Tartars and other Nations, and that moſtly by Land, from whence aroſe many Difficulties by Robberies and the like. The Conditions upon which they were taken on liked me very well, upon which I applied my ſelf to Mr. David Butler who was to be our Leader, and to conduct us to Moſcovia. After I had treated with him a litle upon what Terms I did deſire to go; we made an Agreement for 75 gilders per Moneth, for which I was to ſerve as Sail-maker, and to make up all the Sail-work for a new Ship and a Yacht, which was newly built in Ruſsia. The Fore-maſt Men had 50 gilders per Moneth allow'd them, their Boardwages included, which was 15 gilders.

The Names of thoſe that went, were

David Butler of Amſterdam, Captain.

Lambert Helt, Maſter.

William Klopper, Firſt-Mate and Carpenter.

Iohn Alberts, Second-Mate.

Peter Bartelſz, Boatswain.

Cornelius de Vries, Gunner.

Theodore Peterſz, Carpenters Mate.

William Williamſz, Block-maker.

Anthony Munſter, Diamond-cutter.

— Schack, Chirurgeon.

Wiggert Poppes.

Meyndert Meyndertſz.

Cornelius Brack.

Els Peterſz.

Iacob Trappen.

Iacob Tolk.

Peter Arentſz, and

Iohn Faſſely, Servant to Captain Butter.

[Page]The Maſter together with the Carpenter, Carpenters Mate, Anthony Munſter, Iacob Trappen and Tolk had been the year before in Moſcovia. Having furniſhed our ſelves with Proviſion and things neceſſary for the Journey, we imbarqued our ſelves in the Ship Abrahams Offerhande, which then lay at Amſterdam and was bound for Riga, being 15 in company.

On the 2 of September 1668 we ſail'd through the Pampuys, and on the 3 towards the Evening came before Enchuyſen, where we put in and Shipped 50 Tun of Herring.

On the 4 we ſet ſail again and got the Texel, where we tarried 8 days for a good Wind: and on the 13 the Wind blowing fair all the Ships outward bound which were about 50 ſail; began to weigh, and we reſpectivly to take our leave of Wives and Family, for 5 years: but before we got clear of the Land, the Wind turned, ſo that we were fain to traverſe and wind all we could to get out, in the mean time came a Ship belonging to Ter Schelling with a full drift againſt us, and ran her Bow-ſpreet through our main Sail, which was with ſuch force that he rent our ſail, and broke his Spreet-ſail yard, inſomuch that we were both fain to put into Ter Schelling, to repair and fit our ſelves out again.

On the 20 being clear we ſet ſail the ſecond time, and had a freſh gale at South and by Weſt, which held favourably, ſo long till we arrived at Riga: but when we entred the Baltic Sea, it blew ſo hard that our Mizzen ſail was all rent and unfit for uſe; whereupon the Maſter ſet me to work to repair the defects.

On the 1ſt of October we got the Boldera, Arrival at Boldera. which is the Haven or River of Riga, where we dropt Anchor. Immediately upon our arrival came the Searchers to viſit the Ship, and amongſt other Goods found a Parcel of contra-band Wares, and took it aſhoar with them, but the Maſter told them that it was thrown in by chance, and pray'd them to be ſo kind as to leave it aboard, which, after he had daubed them a litle in the fiſt, they did. The next day being under ſail, we were becalm'd, and fain to caſt anchor half way up the River.

On the 3 ditto we came up to the Kay of Riga, where being arrived,Arrival at Riga. the Maſter refuſed to pay me the moneys, he agreed with me for, to make up his ſail, which was 10 Rix-dollars; but on the contrary, gave me very ill Language, and told me if I had any pretence upon [Page] him the Law was open, and Judges appointed for the deciſion of ſuch controverſies. This great ingratitude, made me to take a courſe I never intended, which was to ſend him ſummons to appear in the Town hall; where upon a ſecond citation, he made his appearence, and was condemned to pay the money, in preſence of the Court.

Riga deſcribed Riga is an eminent Emporium lying within the Prinſdom of Lithvania, and ſeated in a Champain land, on the north-eaſt ſide of the great River Duna. It is fortified with Walls, Bulwarks, and Ditches or Motes, populous and full of Trade, being as it were the Magazin to ſupply the whole Countrey above, with all kinds of Wares and Commodities, and is alſo a great Thorow-fare. By Winter they receive Goods over Land in Sledges and Waggons from Moſcovia which is tranſmitted abroad;It's Commerce both by Sea and Land. and by Summer from England, Germany, Holland, and other Places, by Shipping, which are ſent that way again with the Moſcovian Waggons and Sledges. The Countrey about Riga affoards good plenty of all kinds of Proviſion, as Kine, Sheep, Goats, beſides 3 ſorts of Deer, the Sea and Rivers affoard good ſtore of Fiſh, and the Boors, beſides their diligence in breeding up of Cattel, ſupply other Countreys with Corn, of all ſorts, and Lactuaries: ſo that it is cheap living at or near Riga. This City was formerly within the Juriſdiction of the Kings of Poland; but was taken in by Guſtavus Adolphus, King of Sweden, upon the 16 of September 1621, after a long and hard Siege, and is at this day in ſubjection to that Crown.

Departure from Riga.On the 10 ditto, we left Riga, and with our compleat Company and Baggage imployed 30 Waggons to bring us to Pletsko: and took up our firſt nights Lodging at Niew-meulen, being a Village where all the Waggons and Horſes are ſet over a River with great Logs of Timber faſtned together,Nieu-Meulen. that float above the Water.

On the 11 we proceeded again on our Journey and broke two of our Waggon-wheels, which the Waggoners repaired, and ſo we proceeded on our Journey. At night we came into an Inn which was ſo meanly provided for Bedding that we were fain to lay all night in the Waggons. The next day we travelled through a great Wood, in the middeſt whereof was a broad Marſh, that coſt us ſome Hours to go over. When we were through the Wood, we paſſed through ſeveral little Villages, the Inhabitants whereof were a miſerable ſilly People, [Page] hardly able to draw one leg after the other. The Women have only an old Rag, like a Plad, thrown about their bodies,The Lifelanders their Properties, Habit and Cuſtoms. hardly ſufficient to hide their nakedneſs, except a litle below their ears, to let the World know, they have hair as well as other People; ſo that they look like ſo many Gypſies newly come from the famous Peak of Darby. As for their Houſes they are but one degree beneath a Hog-ſty and thoſe as full of Utenſils, as a Knave is full of Honeſty. All that ever I could ſee was an earthen Pan or two, and thoſe ſo clean, that I had rather faſt a week than eat any thing, that has come out of them. Great plenty of Cattel they have, and ſuch as have three times as many feet as they themſelves. As for Beds they have none but ſuch as their Oxen ly upon, for when they have ſtuffed their Gutts, they ly down upon the floor one after another, as the Nap takes them. Their Diet is ſuitable to all things elſe they have, for although they might have Veniſon for knocking on the Head, the Creature may live till Doomſ-day before they will take the pains to lift a hand to kill it, unleſs it be a louſe, which ſometimes they cruſh to death for change of Diet. As for their Bread it is not much unlike our New-caſtle Coal for colour, but how it is of Taſt I know no more than the Man in the Moon, for neither my Appetite nor Curioſity could move me to it, Cabbage they have in great abundance, which is of a Taſt like Sorrel, but cloſe and white like ours, That and Cucumbers are the main ingredients whereof theſe People ſeem to be compounded, but more eſpecially the latter, for Cucumber attends them from the Womb to the Tomb, being held in perpetual Slavery by their Lords. They are conformable to no Laws, unleſs what they are forced to obſerve by a ſtrict aw, which their Lords impoſe upon them, and injoyn them to. They are by nature obtuſe and dull, inclined to Necromancy and Sorcery, but in the performance of an Exorciſm, ſo palpably ridiculous, that I wonder how they have obtained that repute they have in the World among thoſe, who ought to be wiſer than to beleeve ſuch groundleſs Fictions. They have no manner of Schools wherein to educate their Children, that ever I could ſee or hear of: neither Churches or other Houſes for Religious uſe; ſo that they are brought up in the greateſt Blindneſs and obſcurity that may be. Some of them, 'tis true, will needs be called Chriſtians, but thoſe are they that have travelled as far as Riga, which they think is the Head of the World, [Page] yet are thoſe ſo ſtupid,OCTOB. 1668. as a Lifeland Gentleman told me, that they have learn'd Catechiſm enough, if they can but know the Church from a Dwelling houſe, or to pull of their Caps when they ſee a man with a ſhoulder knot paſs by. Yet they are flexible enough to Idolatry by Nature, and withall ſuperſtitious. In our going through the Woods we ſaw a great Troop of them buſy about Conjuring of a Tree, which they had tied with a Garland of twigs, creeping round about it and making a great Howling; but ſo ſoon as they ſaw us, took them to their Heels and away. By the Forms and Tenures of the Curſes and Conjuration they ſeem to be ſenſible of a Future ſtate and ſometimes (by I know not what Tokens) preſage Death; and the Soul of any that has been a diſturber of the Public Quiet they deliver up to the Devil. They have a formal Oath, that they take upon divers Occaſions which is thus, The Party cuts up a Turf or Sod of Earth, this he ſets upon his Head and takes his ſtick into his Hand, Wiſhing if ſuch, or ſuch a Matter, be not ſo, and ſo, that They with their Cattel may be conſumed with Fire. They have beſides this, other ſuperſtitious Cuſtomes, to which they are ſo ſtrongly inclined by nature that they will not be better civilized, or if they happen to ſhow themſelves willing, and learn a litle Urbanity it muſt be only for lucres ſake, and they promiſed ſomething to boot to remember it, which if you forget to perform, they will forget to obſerve your Document. In ſhort they are but one remove from Bruits, and ſo ignorant, that the moſt part of them thinks there is no other Land in the World beſides their own.

Two days long we went through the Woods and found it ſo ſoft and Marſhy that we could hardly bring our Waggons through in ſafety.

Arrival at Wolmar.On the 14 we arrived at VVolmar where we met many Horſes, Waggons, and Boors going to market with Corn and other Things. One of our Company growing weary of his Journey thought to go away in this Throng, but the Captain being informed of his Deſign, watched him ſo narrowly, that he could not meet with an Opportunity to march off.

VVolmar, is a litle, but a well-fortified Town, munited with a ſtone-Wall and a deep Ditch, but without Water. The Market in regard of the Poverty of the Countrey is very conſiderable, and is held twice [Page] a week. This City as appears yet by the Ruins of it, has been formerly much greater than it is at this day, but with all the Countrey round about has been often depopulated by the Polish and Ruſsian Armies. It is about 18 leagues from Riga.

On the 15 by break of Day, we ſet forward on our Journey, paſſing through a Champaign Countrey, and many ſmall Towns and Hamlets. By the way we obſerved that the Boors had burn't up great Woods, and converted them into Paſturage and arable Ground. Afterwards we went through a large Wilderneſs, where we could not ſee the Sun, by reaſon of the denſity of the Trees, yet the way was full of Mires, and plaſhy. About 7 in the Evening we came to our ſtage, where we were to ſtay over night. The next morning we broke our faſt, yoked the Horſes, and ſet forward; paſſing over a huge River which had only a Bridge there where we were to paſs over, and no where elſe within 20 leagues above or below: but the Bridge being old and ſeemingly rotten, we durſt not go over all together, but one by one. When we were got over, Evening came on, and the Sky began to grow gloomy, after which followed a very great Tempeſt that the River ſwell'd over the Banks and overflow'd all the flat Lands, which we ſeeing ſo ſuddenly happen, left the common Road; for that our Land Pilot told us, that the High way was ſubject to ſuch Floods with an extraordinary Inundation. After two Hours Storming, the Weather began to clear and the Pilot aſſured us we were not far from the Town where we were to take our nights reſt, and ſo it happened, for juſt as he was ſpeaking of it we ſaw Light, through the Trees, which mightily revived us for we were extreme cold and weary. The next morning we ſet forward for Pitſiora, and had very good Weather, but came ſhort of the Town that night, inſomuch that we were fain to ly all night in the Woods, where we gathered all the Windfalls we could find and laid them on a heap, and with dry Sticks made a huge Fire, which ſerved not only to warm our ſelves at, but likewiſe to affright the Bears and Wolves away, which are very bold and cruel in theſe Parts, as alſo the Muskettos, which ſwarm here by Millions, and annoy both Man and Beaſt, after an incredible rate.

CHAP. II. Arrival at Pitſiora, and at Pletskow, A ſtrange Paſſage of a hungry Bear. The ſpindle-bone or shank of a Giant. The Pleaſant Proſpects and delightſome Landships of Moſcovia. Arrival at Novogorod. The Antiquity and former Glory of that City; how taken by the Moſcovian, and Fortified by the Swede. Their Departure from Novogorod, Reſcounter with a Company of Robbers, and Arrival at Colomna. Great abundance of Wolves. Coldneſs of the Climat.

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OCTOB. 1668.ON the 30th. of October 1678 we arrived at Pitſiora, which lies on the Confines of Ruſsia, and under the Protection of that Emperour. It is ſeated in a fair and pleaſant Countrey, affoarding all things neceſſary to the ſuſtenance of human Bodies. 'Tis true Pitſiora is no more than a Village, yet for wealthy Inhabitants, Commerce abroad and Advancement of Manufacture, ſurpaſſes any City in all that part of the Countrey. In paſſing through the Town we ſaw many rich Mercers and Drapers Shops; the Markets ſtored with all ſorts of Proviſion, as Corn, Butter, Cheeſe and Fruits, with a very noble Butchery or Fleſh-ſhambles, and the ſtreets crouding with People from all Parts. So ſoon as we were arrived, there came ſeveral Jewelers, who asked if we had any Pearls, or other Jewels to ſell or barter.

Having refreſhed ourſelves at Pitſiora; we left the Town the next day about 10 in the Morning, and about noon entred a large Wood where we found great ſtore of Hurtles or Bilberies, that were far greater and better taſted then any I have known elſe where; which moved me to fall a plucking of them; but going a litle way into the Wood, and making a ruſhing through the Thickets, up ſtarts a huge Bear, which ſo affrighted me that I had hardly power to run from him; however it ſeem'd that he was as fearfull of me as I of him, for when I ran Eaſt he ran Weſt, and glad I was to ſee his Bear-ſhip turn tails with me. This was the only Bear that ever I had ſeen in Lifeland, or all the way from Riga hither, but the Boors often warned us to take care of our ſelves, ſaying that, ſometimes both Men and Cattel are devoured with thoſe cruel and ravenous Beaſts.

On that Evening we arrived at Pletskou where we had Lodgings and all neceſſaries provided us; and on the 22 payd our Waggoners who returned for Riga.

[Page] Pletskou, is a large City,OCTOB. 1678. a great part thereof is ſurrounded with a wall, the reſt with huge Balks like Pallizados, and computed about 8 [English] miles in compaſs. Their Houſes are made ſleightly of Trees and pieces of Timber, let in with joynts, without any Gentility or ornament. The Town it ſelf gives a noble Proſpect if you view it from without, by reaſon of the many Pariſh-Churches and Towers it has, but when you come within, it appears very ugly, the ſtreets are irregular without Uniformity, and the Houſes built after multifarious manners, ſo that the pooreſt Village, in the Low-Countreys, is a Paradice in compariſon of Pletskou. 'Tis true they have ſome Houſes of ſtone, but the moſt eminent and wealthy Citizens chuſe rather to live in Wooden-Houſes than in thoſe, for that they ſay, The latter are more wholſom. Here I happened to meet with a Hamburger, and after we had exchanged a few words together, concerning our journey from Riga, I told him of my rouzing the Bear. He replyed that I was happy to make my eſcape ſo, ſince not only men are ſometimes devoured by them, but alſo Horſes and Kine, and withal told me, how that they dig up the Graves for the Bodies of the Dead, when they are hungry. But more lamentable was a ſtory he told me, of a She-Bear, that in the year 1656. broke by night into a Houſe in the Country not far from thence, where she had found the Woman of the houſe with a ſucking, Infant in the bed with her. The woman she devoured, leaving only a part of her left leg and a litle of the Scalp, but the Infant was altogether miſt, whence it was concluded that the Bear had eaten it up, as being young and conſequently more delicate. Not long after this diſmal hap, the Peaſant took his Muſquet with him into the Woods not far from his Houſe, with intent to shoot an Otter which haunted his Fish-pond, and by the way eſpies a Bear, at which he levels his Muſquet, and hits him directly on the skull. The Bear (as the cuſtom is when shot) rolls himſelf in a heap, the Peaſant runs to her and finding it a Female, and her Duggs full of Milk, reſolves the next day to make ſearch for her Seat, for then he thought that her VVhelps would be hungry and yell out. The day following he went out to ſeek the Cave, taking 2 or 3 other Peaſants with him, who being about the Middle of the VVood, on the ſide of a hill, heard a young child cry, and following the direction of the ſound, found his own Infant in the cleft of a great Rock, which he took and brought to Pletskou, to be nurſ'd up by his VVives Siſter, where out of curioſity I went to ſee it.

In the Suburbs of Pletskou, was to be ſeen a ſhank-bone of a Giant, [Page] 5 foot long,OCTOB. 1668. which together with the whole Skeleton, was found in a Tomb of ſtone, by the Boors, when they were digging up the roots of Trees that they had burn'd up.

On the 26th it began to freeze hard, and afterwards to ſnow, which made us uneaſy for our delay, being conſtrained to wait here ſo long, till we received the Poddowodda, which is an Order given by his Imperial Majeſty, that every Town we came at ſhould furniſh us with Horſes, Wagons, Bedding, and defray our other Charges. On the 28 towards night came an Expreſs from Moſcou, and the next day we ſet forward, intending firſt for Novogorod. This part of our Journey was much more eaſy and delightfull than that through Lifeland, which was altogether deſert and Marſhy, this on the contrary, inhabited and till'd.

On the 31th we came at a great Lake before Novogorod, where we left the Sledges and were fetch'd over in a kind of a Cymb, or Boat which is made of a hollow tree, and by them called Knoos; of theſe they had two ſorts, the one for Paſſengers, who may ſit 4 or 5 at a time, the other broader, and every way larger, fit to tranſport Goods. This Lake is very broad but ſhallow, not having above 5 foot Water in moſt places. When we were ſet over, our Goods were put into Sledges, and brought after us into the Town.

In paſſing through the Town we found the Suburbs far greater than the City it ſelf, which as appears by the Ruins of the Walls, has been formerly a well fortified Place. In times paſt it was neither ſubject to the Ruſsian, Swede, nor Polander, but had a Prince, who coined Money and ruled as abſolute Soveraign, with an independent and arbitrary Power; Yea, to ſo high a ſtate was it once advanced, that it was grown to a Proverb, GOD and Novogorod, who is able to withſtand. Their Puiſſance I need not diſpute, ſince it is well known to thoſe that are acquainted with Geography what Sway the Princes of Novogorod have born, and what a name this City has had abroad for her Wealthy Merchants and great commerce with other Places. About the year 1477 it was beſieged and ſtorm'd by Ivan Vaſilowitz, Great Duke of Moſcovia, who took away all the Priviledges and Immunities of the Citizens: ſince which time their Wealth and Traffic began to decline and decay. However by reaſon of it's commodious Situation, it retains the footſteps of its former Trade, and is eſpecially [Page] frequented by Swedes, Danes, Hamburgers and Lubeckers, who come up the River Nerva, with their ſmall Shipping. The chief Commodities they deal in, are Wheat, Ry, Lin-and Rapeſeed, Furrs, Hemp and Flax. The Countrey is bleſſed with a good Soil, and produces ſufficiently enough of what is requiſite to human ſuſtenance, which is here very cheap. This is reckoned the beſt place in all Moſcovia for River-fiſh, eſpecially Pikes and Perch, Salmon they have in great abundance, as alſo Carp, Bream, and Sturgeon, with other kinds not commonly found in the Low-Countreys.

Novogorod (which is as much as to ſay, New-town, or Newton, being compounded of the Latin word Novus, and the ſubſtantive Gorod, in the Moſcovian Tongue, a City) is at this preſent ſtrengthned only with a Wall of Timber, but well provided with Ammunition, and Braſs Ordnance. On the one ſide is a ſtrong Caſtle with a high ſtone-wall, which as then was the Reſiding place of the Primate or Arch-biſhop of the Weſt-Province, and ſome other Temporal Lords. The greateſt Decorum and Ornament of this City is the Pomp and ſtatelineſs of the Churches and ſome Public Edifices, as at Pletskou, but the Houſes and Private Dwellings of the Inhabitants without any Order or neatneſs of Structure. Between the Caſtle and the Town is a long wooden Bridge where the beforenamcd Ivan Baſilowitz, a great Tyrant, threw in ſome Thouſands of the Inhabitants. When you enter the Town, by that way you come within view of a famous Cloyſter, dedicate to Saint Anthony: which Saint they beleeve and will perſwade you came driving on from Rome, out at the Tyber, through the Aegean Sea, the Propontis, the Negropont, the Which is a Lake and has no communion with any other Sea. Mare Caſpium, and ſo up the Wolga to Novogorod upon a Milſtone: where he met with a company of Fishers, with whom he covenanted for a certain ſome of Money, that the firſt thing they took should be his. The Fishers drew their Net, and brought up a Cheſt, which was full of Money, beſides a Ghoſtly Attire, and ſome Books, VVith the money he built there a Chappel where he lies interred, and (as they tell us) his Body is yet to be ſeen, fresh and undecay'd, by which many miracles have been done, but none can ſee him, or them, but ſuch as are of their own Faith. And ſo much of a floating Mil-ſtone.

In the year 1611 this City was beſieged and taken in by I. de la Gardie, Novogorod taken in by the Swede. the Swedish General, and in the year 1613 redelivered to the Czar of Moſcovy upon Articles of Peace.

[Page] NOV. 1668.Upon the 8 of November we left Novogorod, having had time enough to view every Remarkable that was worthy of ſight,Departure from Novogorod. and about 2 a clock in the afternoon arrived at a village called Bruynitz where we ſtay'd, and took up our Lodging for that night. The next Morning we took freſh Horſes, but the ſnow was ſo melted with the Sun that we were fain to take Waggons, and leave the Sledges: but the way was ſo miry, that we had much ado to get the Horſes through, for the Earth there is of a tough clay. About 8 in the Evening we came to Miedna, which is a poor Village, and could hardly affoard us Hous-room for that night.

On the 10th. we had bad travailing way, being for the moſt part marſhy and full of Boggs, with Planks and trees laid over to make them paſſable, which totered and shaked ſo that our Waggons were often out of order, but were as often mended by the Peſants who by continual uſe are very expert at it. By the way we ſaw abundance of Squirrels and Foxes which run together in Troups, yet ſo ſhy that we could not come within muſquet-ſhot of them. That night we got Gankrezza, a handſom little Village, where we refreſhed and ſupplied our ſelves with neceſſaries for our Journey.

Reſcounter with a company of Robbers.The next day being the 11th of Novemb. we ſet forward on our Journey, and travelling thro the Woods, we were ſurprized with a Party of High-way men, well mounted and masked, who demanded, what we were? We replied, that we were Dutch and ſervants to the Emperour. They hearing that, were in a doubt whether they ſhould plunder us, or not; but at laſt rode off and bad us adieu. It was our opinion that they were affraid that our Company was ſtronger, and that the reſt followed us, for they were better arm'd and mounted than we, beſides the Waggons we had to take care of, or otherwiſe in all probability they would not have neglected ſuch a fair booty, that being, as we were told by the Waggoners, one of the moſt dangerous places in all the Countrey. That night we took our reſt at Iazel-Bitza, being very bad and ſnowy weather.

On the 12 ditto, we took in freſh Horſes, and put our Baggage and Moveables into Sledges becauſe of the ſnow, paſſing through thick Woods, and a vaſt Wilderneſs, before we came at Gamzymnagoru where we were to take up our Lodging.

On the thirteenth we changed Horſes and ſet forward on our [Page] Journey, paſſing firſt through a thick Wood, and afterwards, came into champian Land, which was dry, level, and tilled as far as we could ſee. By the way we ſaw many ſmall Villages, but at night came into Colomna, which was the faireſt and beſt Village I had hitherto ſeen in Moſcovia: the Inhabitants are reputed wealthy, and live in very good faſhion. We came pretty early to our Stage, having had very good way, and reaſonable fair weather, ſo that we had time enough to take a view of the Town, Our Priſtaf, or Guid, who ſpoke good Nether Dutch went with us to ſhow what was worthy of remark, and very courteouſly reſolved us in any thing we deſired to be ſatisfied about.

On the 14th we went through a great Wood where we ſaw abundance of Wolves playing together, which, when we would have taken aim to ſhoot with our Long Guns, they ran inward and took the Wood. Our Priſtaf told me that they knew us to have Fire-locks about us, that being the only ſafeguard to travel with, without which they will not fear to aſſail Horſe and Man, and ſometime lay ſculking in the way ſide, where of a ſudden they run out and prey upon Paſſengers. Towards the Evening it began to freez hard, that we were fain to ſtep out of the Hurdles, and walk afoot.

On the 16th we got VVaizna, and from thence departed for Gam-VVoldoka, where we tarried 4 days to reſt our ſelves. In the mean while it froze very hard, and I with another of our Company went out to ride upon Scates, upon which an infinit number of Men, Women and Children, yea the Prieſts themſelves, came running out to ſee us.

CHAP. III. A Quarrel with the Ruſſians, Eight Dutch Merchants murthered in a Wood. Arrival at Tweer, Another Reſcountre with a Party of Robbers. Money ſent from Moskow. Purſuit of their Journey. They enter Moſcou. Their good Reception. The great Bear-Garden. Wolf and Bear-baiting. Death of the Empreſs, and the pompous Exequies.

ON the 22th after we had ſufficiently taken breath, we ſet forth, having freſh Horſes provided us, and ſo entred a great Wood, [Page] where we ſaw great ſwarms of Squirrels fly from Tree to Tree;SEPT. 1668. as alſo abundance of Pheaſants and Partridges, which the Peaſants take and ſell for a mean price. About the Evening we came to VVuidra Pusk, where we remained that night, but could not get any Lodging fit to entertain us either for Houſ-room or Victuals, this being yet a poorer Village than that of Miedna. At this place happened a Quarrel between one of our Company and a Ruſs, the firſt having taken the others Ax, for that the Ruſs had ſtole ſom Tobacco from him: which being made known to the Company, they ſtruck and miſuſed the poor Ruſs, after an unſufferable manner, which Capt. Butler reſented very ill, not willing to give the Ruſsians any diſguſt. But above all the people in the World there are none that covet Tobacco ſo much as they do, and will be ſure to ſteal it, if they cannot otherwiſe come by it, although they were ſure to looſe their Heads for it.

On the 23 by break of Day, we ſet out and entred another thick Wood. Here they ſhowd us ſom Graves where they told us, 8 Dutch Merchants were buried, who had been murthered by Robbers. When we were got thro the Wood we went over a fair Paſture-ground, and ſaw divers Boors Houſes by the Way-ſide. In the Evening we arrived at Torſtock, which we found to be but a ſmall, yet well-built City, although it appeared greater, from the Number of Towers which we ſaw, when at a diſtance, having above 30 Churches and Chappels within the Walls. Here we unloaded our Sledges and left them, putting our Goods aboard ſome ſmall Shipping that was provided for us, and ſayled down the River to Troetzka Miedna where we took in ſom neceſſary Proviſions. That night pretty late we came to Tweer which is Seated upon the River VVolga, which River with many windings and turnings runs to ſeek the Caſpian Sea, into which its diſgorges its ſelf. Tweer is ſomething greater than Torſtock and is built on the ſide of a Hill from whence it has it's name. Here is alſo the Place where the River of Torſtock incorporates with the Wolga making a great and loud noiſe where the Floods are hurried in together. This City like Torſtock makes a greater Show abroad than it does within; being neither well built nor at all fortified, ſave only with a Wall of Wood and 2 or 3 Braſs Cannon on the Land ſide. Here we took out our Baggage and laid it again upon Sledges, taking our way through the Woods where we were aſſail'd by two Ruſsians a foot, [Page] but upon what account I know not.DECEM 1668. Firſt they began to make a quarrel, and ſo boldly offered to ſtrike with their Axes, ſaying, that they were upon their own Ground, and that we were a parcel of Rogues and Vagabonds &c. To which ſome of our Company who could ſpeak the Language, prai'd them not to moleſt us, as they tendred their Welfare, and that we had no time to ſtand diſputing, and anſwering their impertinent Objections. This not availing, or perſwading them to be quiet, but rather made them worſe, for they came cloſer and cloſer to us: which Capt. Butler obſerving fell a caning them, whereupon they retired a litle, as if they would go away, but all on a ſudden came running in upon us full drive with their Axes, upon which three of our Company levelled their Muſquets, but the Captain forbad to fire, and let the Maſtive looſe upon them. The Maſtive flies directly at one of them, and had him ſo faſt by the Throat, that we had much ado to get him off: the other ſeeing his Mate ſo hard put to it, ran away as faſt as he could, but the Dog being looſe flew after him, and tore off his left ear; and had we not done our indeavour to take him off, had rent him all to pieces. So ſoon as we had got rid of them we proceeded on our way, and at night came to Gorodna, where we ſtaid till morning.

On the 24 ditto we went forward, paſſing over 2 Rivers, where we came to a Village called Sawidowa, Saulka Spaz. and at night came to Saulka Spaz which was our Stage. Here we provided our ſelves again with freſh Horſes, but not without much difficulty, for in the mean time we were very uncivilly treated by the Inhabitants, whom we found mightily inclined to quarrel with us, although without occaſion.

On the 25 we took our leaves of Saulka Spaz going over a large plain, and at night came to a village called Klien, Klien. where for want of Moneys we were forced to ſtay, till we had an Expreſs from Moſcou which came not before the 4 of December following, at which time came alſo one of the Domeſticks of the Heer van Sweden, Kinſman to Captain Butler bringing the unwelcom news of his Maſters Sickneſs whom the Phyſicians judged to be paſt recovery. The Captain upon the opening of the Letter was ſadly dejected, and immediatly took Horſe and rode poſt for Moſcou, leaving us Order the next day to follow with the Baggage. In the mean time it began to ſnow hard, inſomuch that we were forced to tarry 6 days at Klien. On the 11 we [Page] ſet forward having fair Weather, which at our ſetting out ſeemed to be durable. On this days Journey we met with, Rivers which we were to paſs over that hindred us not a litle; by reaſon that the Floats were ſo litle, not able to carry above 3 or 4 Horſes at a time with Sledges and Wagons, At night we arrived at Serkiſowo, where we took up our Night-lodging. In the mean time it froze ſo hard, that we were all benummed, and fain to run after the Waggons to keep our ſelves Warm.

On the eleventh ditto, we went through ſeveral thick Woods of Juniper, where we ſaw abundance of Foxes playing together in the Sun. About 3 in the afternoon we arrived at Nicholo Direverno, from whence we could ſee the long-wiſh'd-for Moſcou. About Evening we entred the Suburbs, where by one of our own Nation we underſtood that the Heer van Sweden was deceaſed, and that the Ship was fit for Lanching.

On the 12th. we had order to come into the City, and had Appartments provided us near the Houſe of the Heer van Sweden. Our Landlady had ſo little ſatisfaction in the Gueſts that were appointed to have quarters with her, that ſhe addreſſed herſelf to Court, to deſire that we might be brought ſome where elſe, but inſtead of obtaining her Requeſt, was ſent home with a hundred ſtrokes on the Ribs for her pains. When ſhe came in, ſhe ran into a back-room, where was the Image of St. Nicholas painted upon a Plank, and falling down proſtrate before it, ſhed a ſhower of Tears. However ſhe was forced to content her ſelf for 14 days longer, during which time we made good chear, and ſpared not for Fewel in the Stoves. And albeit the Woman was ſo diſſatisfied at our being there, yet her Husband could have wiſh'd us there the whole year round, for our Brandy and Tabacco ſake.

On the 27 we had order to go into the Houſe of the late deceaſed Gentleman, even now remembred, which was a very commodious Houſe and provided with a great Or Cackel. Stove, which was by reaſon of the bitter Weather, very welcome to us; the more becauſe the ſaid Houſe was well furniſhed with Wood, and other fewel for the Winter. We ſtayd here three weeks, during which time there was care taken for what we had need of; when that time was expired we received ſudden Orders, forthwith to depart for our wharf at Aſtrachan.

[Page]On the 19 of Ianuary we brought our Baggage aboard a ſmall Ship,JAN. 1669. that lay about 3 Miles without Moſcou. At this Place was the Court of the Emperours Siſter, being a fair Palace, but of Wood, built after a quaint and artificial manner. Here was alſo the Emperours Bear-Garden, being accidentally when we were there a great Concourſe of Gentry, from Moſcou, and other places to ſee the Paſtime, and the Evening before, came the Emperour with the whole Court and Retinue. The Theatre was only environed with Stakes and Pales, that the People might alſo ſee, that were without. Before they began were brought out about 200 Wolves and Bears, and almoſt twice the number of Dogs; all which were drawn in their Kennels ſet upon Sledges. The Emperour, and the prime of his Nobles ſate in a Gallery made on purpoſe in a very convenient place, to ſee on every ſide. So ſoon as the Emperour was ſet, a ſign was given, upon which a litle Wolf and an old Bear were turned out looſe together, that after they had encountered about half a quarter of an Hour, were parted, which notwithſtanding their being in the heat of the Fight, were eaſily brought aſunder and led to their Kennel. The Wolves were afterwards engaged with Dogs of which many lay dead upon the place, and others ſo wounded that they were no more fit for uſe.

On the 23 of February, one of our company married with a Tartarian maid, who had been taken Captive when ſhe was a Child and brought up in the Chriſtian Religion, by the Heer van Sweden, who taught her to write and ſpeak Netherdutch, both which ſhe did expertly well. And a day or two after was another of our Company married with a Lubekker, both theſe two went with their Huſbands to Aſtrachan.

On the 13 of March died the Empreſs in Child-bed who by reaſon of her great Charity, Piety, and the beſt of Vertues,Death of the Empreſs. was much lamented by the Common People, who oftentimes in diſtreſs were accuſtomed to addreſs themſelves to her, as a Mediatrix. The next day ſhe was interred with great Pomp and magnificency, for it is not their Cuſtome as in other Countreys to embalm the Corps, or to let it lie in State. On each ſide the way ſtood the Guards,The Funeral. but none follow'd or went before; except ſome of the chief Perſonages about Court who walked a ſoft pace. The Herſe was cowered with a rich Canopy of cloth of Gold, having Taſſels and Fringe ſuitable, born up by 8 young Lords. After the Herſe followd a Train of Noble-men, [Page] led by the firſt Miniſters of State who bore a Bag of money which the ſaid Empreſs on her Death-bed had bequeathed to the Poor.MAR. 1669. Theſe followed next to the Emperour and his two Sons; who were apparreled in a Garment, lined with Black Fox skins, which is a Fur of very high eſteem. The Emperour and his two Sons were ſupported each by two Gentlemen. There were alſo the ſeveral Miniſters of Forreign Courts preſent, who were attired after the manner of their own Countrey, theſe went on each ſide the Herſe at a diſtance, and after all followed an innumerable Train of Citizens and Forreign Merchants, but thoſe without any Order. On this manner the Corps was brought into a Cloyſter which ſhe her ſelf had founded, and there committed to the Earth.

CHAP. IV. Situation of Moſcou. It's Diviſions and Wards. Kitay-Gorod the firſt City. The great number of Churches and Cloyſters. High Towers. Noted Humility and Obedience of a Ruſſian Gentleman. The greateſt Bell in the World at Moſcou. The Church of Jeruſalem, Zaar-gorod the ſecond, Skorodom the third, and Strelitza Slowoda the fourth Town. Great number of Houſes within the City Moſcou. A great Fire, whereby many Houſes were conſumed. The coldneſs of the Climate. Diſeaſes proper to the Countrey. Fertility and Products of the Land.

BEing conſtrained to tarry ſome time at Moſcou againſt our will, it gave me opportunity to take a view of the Town, and to make what obſervations I could during the time of my aboad there, which I ſhall according to my beſt knowledge impart to the Reader.

Moſcou it's Situation and ſtate Moſcou is the Metropolitan, or Capital City of Moſcovia and the Imperial City of Ruſsia, and all that is within the Juriſdiction of the Emperour, whoſe Empire is bounded on the North with the white Sea, on the Eaſt ſevered from the Samoieds, and other Tartarian Countreys, on the South it has the Mare Caſpium, and on the Weſt, part of Poland, Lifeland, and Sweden. So that the large and wide Dominions of the Czar, are extended as well into the Aſian as the European Continent.

The City of Moſcou (which ſeems to have it's name from the noble River Moſcqua) lies in 50 degr. 37 min. Northerly Latitude. It is a [Page] very large City, and computed to be about 30 or 35 Engliſh miles in compaſs, yet was almoſt twice as great, before it was taken in and depopulated by the Tartars. It gives a very fair proſpect from without by reaſon of it's many Towers and high Buildings. This City is divided into 4 wikes or Wards, to wit, Kitay-gorod, or midle City, Zaar-or Czar-gorod, the Emperours City, Skorodom and Strelitza Slowoda. Theſe ſeveral Diviſions ſeem rather ſo many diſtinct Towns or Cities whereof Perhaps from Cathaia. Kitay-gorod ſtands in the middeſt, and is environed with a high wall, which they call Craſna Stenna, that is, Red Wall. It is feated between 2 Rivers, to wit Moſcqua on the South, and the Neglina on the North, which are united behind the Palace. The Palace together with its Appendences, to wit, the Wall, Hornworks, Creſcents and other Fortifications is the larger part of the Kitay-gorod, called alſo Crim-gorod; being well provided with Men and Ammunition. In the midſt of this Palace is a very ſtately Church, in which we ſaw a Silver branched Candleſtick, formerly preſented to the Czar by the Ambaſſador of our States. Beſides this Church is another dedicated to the Archangel, where are to be ſeen the Tombs of thoſe of Imperial blood, as alſo Triotzis Maria and that of St. Nicholas which are both very ſumptuous. Thoſe which are in Kitay-gorod without the Palace are alſo reputed the beſt and faireſt in all Moſcou, being reckoned 56. Beſides the Churches which are within the Walls of the Palace are 2 very beautifull Cloyſters, the one for Young Gentlemen, and the other for Ladies, who have reſolved to live a monaſtichal Life; altho the former may rather go under the denomination of an Iluſtrious School, becauſe it is appointed for the Education of the Young nobility in all kinds of Literature and good Manners, who at 16 Years have a choice preferred them, whether they will lead a Ghoſtly or a Secular Life: but that for the Ladies, diſpences not with ſuch a Freedom, but all that are admitted muſt continue durante vitâ. In the middle of this Palace, or rather Fort, is a high Tower, which the Ruſſians call Ivan Velike, that is Great Iohn being covered with Copper and double guilt. This is that Tower,This Story has been recorded of another Potentate, but 'tis no great matter. on whoſe Top the Emperour Boris Gudenow (as is to be ſeen in their Chronicles) brought a Perſian Ambaſſadour to view the City Moſcou, and amongſt other diſcourſe began to ſpeak of the great Loyalty and Obedience of ſome ſubjects to their Soveraigns in paſt ages: Whence [Page] the Emperour took occaſion to ſay) So faithfull are my ſubjects from the higheſt Bojar, to the meaneſt Vaſſal, that there is not one of them who would refuſe to throw himſelf praecipitantly from the Top of this Tower, if I thought good to command: and thereupon calls a Bojar, or Lord, whom he inſtantly commanded to throw himſelf head-long down, which after he had taken his Leave of his Imperial Majeſty and thoſe that were with him, jump'd off from the higheſt pinacle, where he was taken up dead, buried with greated Solemnity, and his Children promoted to the greateſt Places of Truſt, in which they and their Deſcent continue till this day.

The great BellBeſides this there is yet another Tower and one of the wideſt that ever I have ſeen in my life, in which is the greateſt Bell without doubt in the World, weighing 394000 lb. and the Clapper 10000 lb. I meaſured it and found it 23 foot Diameter, and 2 foot ſolid mettal. It is as much as 50 ſtrong men can move, and that only ſo as may juſt be perceived. It is ſeldom rung, and that only upon Feſtival days, or when any Forreign Prince or Miniſter of State deſires it. When they intend to do it at any extraordinary time, they make proclamation through the Town, by which warning the Citizens take down all the Glaſſes and Earthen Ware, for it makes all tremble and ſhake.

There are beſides the Imperial Court ſeveral other ſpacious Palaces for the Bojars, or Nobility, as alſo for the Spiritual Lords, amongſt which that of the Patriarch is the moſt magnificent. Without Kitay-gorod, directly before the Palace of the Czar, is one of the faireſt Churches (I muſt neds ſay) that I have ſeen in all my Travels,Jeruſalem Church. which is built after the model of the Temple of Ieruſalem, from whence it has that Name. Near unto this church is the great Market having Shops of all Wares and Merchandiſes that may be imagined, but every Shopkeeper has his own Row or Street, ſo that people of one Dealing have all their Shops together, and by themſelves. In this part of the City dwell likewiſe the ableſt Merchants [Kneeſen] and other Perſons of note, who dwell in ſtone houſes to preſerve their Goods, if a Fire ſhould happen.

Zaar-gorod which is the ſecond part of Moſcou encompaſſeth Kitay-gorod almoſt in the form of a Creſcent, which is alſo environed with a huge Wall, which they call Biela Stenna, that is, The white Wall. Zaar-gorod is divided into two parts by the River Neglina, which [Page] runs thro the midſt of it. Here is alſo a famous Founding-Houſe for caſting great Bells and Ordnance, as alſo the Emperours ſtable. Near the River is a Beaſt-market, and a famous Butchery or Fleſh-ſhambles, where you find not only Beef, Veal, Mutton, Pork, Lamb, Veniſon, &c. but alſo Horſe-fleſh to ſell. Corn, Meal, Butter, Cheeſe and other Proviſion is here good, cheap, and very plentiful.

The Third City which is Skorodom, embraces Czar-gorod on the Eaſt, North and Weſt-ſides likewiſe in the form of a Creſcent. In this City, or Ward, is the Houſe-market, where at a low price you may buy a Houſe, of what greatneſs you pleaſe. Theſe Houſes are made of Square pieces of Timber notch'd and let into each other, which when you have bought you can disjoint and bring it where you liſt upon Sledges, that amongſt many inconveniencies has this one Conveniency, that if a Citizen has his Houſe burn'd he may be every day ſupplied with a new, which (conſidering the old is brought to Aſhes) may without much coſt, be placed where the other ſtood; whereas on the contrary, we are often forced to ſtay ſometimes a year or more before the Rubbiſh be taken away and a convenient Houſe built in lieu of the old. Beſides that conveniency, they have another, which is, that at what time any Houſe happens to take fire, and any probable danger of breaking out, the Neighbours upon timely notice have their Houſes taken in pieces and removed as if they were but Tents.

The fourth and laſt Wike is Strelitza Slowoda, Strelitza Slowoda which reaches out toward the South, over the River Moſcqua, and towards the Tartarian Countrey. Here is the placc where the Soldateſque are inquarter'd, which they call Strelitzen, from whence this Part of Moſcou has it's name. It is very well fortified with Bulwarks, and other Fortifications.

The number of the Houſes within the four Diviſions and the Suburbs, according to their computation are ſaid to be about 95000, the Palace and all its appendencies excluded. The Churches, and Cloyſters, wherein they preach are 1700. Amongſt this great number of Dwelling-houſes you find few or none, but what are altogether of Wood, except ſome Merchants Houſes in Kitay-gorod, who as we have already ſaid, build moſtly of Stone for the better ſecurity of their Goods. They uſe no Chimneys as we do for fires, but great Cackels, [Page] or rather Ovens; made altogether of ſtone, which ſometimes being over heated, or by the negligence of the People, who are great affecters of Brandy, is the occaſion of ſetting their Houſes on fire, as it happened about 6 Weeks before our arrival there, at what time, by the negligence of a poor Woman, happened a moſt dreadfull Conflagration,A great Fire in Moſcou. that reduced about 35 Thouſand Houſes to aſhes, and that in the beſt part of the City, which beſides an incredible loſs of Houſe-furniture, Merchandiſe and the like, there were many children and impotent People killed. The Dutch Merchants, who had moſtly their Reſidence near the place where the Fire firſt broke out, ſuſtained an incredible loſs. Tis true the Houſes are upon ſuch occaſions removed with as much eaſe as ours are blown up, but if the Timber be knotty the Sparks and Cinders fly abroad and kindle other Houſes at an incredible diſtance, which being covered with dry Planks are not ſo eaſily extinguiſhed, The Czar upon conſideration of the frequent Fires has appointed a party of the Strelitzers, to be quartered in ſeverall places, at a due and convenient diſtance from each other throughout the 4 Wards; who are continually to be at hand upon ſuch occaſions. Now by reaſon of the great ſcarcity of Water in Moſcou, the firſt thing they lay their hands to, is to disjoynt the Houſes, and therefore for the moſt part are train'd up in that kind of Architecture, to be aſſiſtant again in the rebuilding of the ſame, when all danger is ſuppoſed to be over.

Great but miry Streets.The ſtreets of Moſcou are very ſpacious and wide, but in rainy weather ſo miry, that in walking you are up to the very knees in mud; for which reaſon both Men and Women are fain to wear Boots. Although 'tis certain that inconvenience might be remedy'd, by paving it with ſtone, as they do in the Low-Countreys and elſe where. During the time we were there, it was not poſſible to thwart the ſtreets if they had not thrown great beams and planks acroſs the way.

The Air. Moſcou, and all the whole Countrey towards the North is capable of a very unwholſom Air, for thoſe that are not brought up in it, being in the Winter exceeding ſharp and cold, and in the Summer hot and moyſt. In Winter they muffle up their Noſe and Ears in Furs, eſpecially when they go upon a Journey. And in Moſcou it is well ſeen that many of the Inhabitants have neither Noſe nor Ear, which they ſay is by coming out of the bitter cold Air into a hot Stove: for [Page] although it may ſeem ſtrange, yet cannot that be avoided in ſome places, unleſs they rub their Noſes and Ears, which are frozen, in Snow till they grow hot, which done they may come into a Houſe without danger, and this you ſhall ſee them continually a doing in ſuch Seaſons. It is alſo obſervable how that after a hard Winter the very Earth chinks and opens when it once begins to thaw. But on the contrary, it is there ſo hot in the Summer that a ſtranger cannot endure it, at what time alſo the Marſhes and ſtanding Pools do ſo ſtink that one is ready to faint away: beſides the great annoyance of Gnats, Muskettos and other Vermin, againſt which there is no way to defend ones Face. The Peſtilence is ſeldom ever known there,The Countrey Sic [...]neſs. but in lieu there of another Epidemy, which ſo torments them in their Bowels that thoſe that are taken with it rarely recover, or live above 3 days. Some I have heard ſay that in times paſt it was far more frequent and rigorous than at this day, for before, they had not the uſe of Phyſic nor would admitt of any that profeſſed it to practiſe, as of late, finding the great benefit thereof, they have done.

Moſcovia is a Countrey of a fat and fertile Soil, far beyond that of Lifeland. Their Wheat, Ry, Barley and Oats, they ſow about St. Iohns day at Midſummer, which within 7 or 8 Weeks is fit for the Sickle, or Sithe (for they uſe both) and that by reaſon of the conſtant heat. They have beſides the beforementioned fruments, good ſtore of Pulſe, as Peaſe, Beans and Lentils. Cucumbers, Pompions and Melons are more common there than with us, of which laſt I have ſeen ſome weighing above 40 pound. The Fruits they have are Pears, Apples, Quinces, Medlars, Cherries Plumbs, and of theſe ſeveral kinds. There grows in the Countrey lying upon the River Moſequa a kind of an Apple ſo tranſparent that you may diſcern the Seeds, as Grapes: The Shell or Rind thereof is very thin and ſubtile and the Fruit it ſelf very delicate, but too juycy, and after a long Rain ſo watriſh that they grow inſipid. 'Tis generally known abroad that Moſcovia affoards Flax and Hemp to that exuperancy, that they ſupply almoſt all Europe with Rope-work. The next Staple-Commoditie of Moſcovia is Wax and Honey, which the Ruſsians take wild and make a vaſt profit thereof. In ſhort there is no Vegetable of general uſe with us, but what likes there, ſave only the Vine, which the Extremity of the Winter will not ſuffer to like or come to perfection: but that [Page] defect is ſufficiently ſupplied from abroad, by the English, Dutch and others, who bring the Products of every Vintage from France and elſe where. They have no Mines ſave only of Steel and Iron.

Of their Cattel. Ruſsia if taken in general is better ſtored with tame Cattel and Wildbeaſts than any Countrey in Europe, or as ſome beleeve, in the whole World. Kine is without doubt in greater abundance there than in Tartary, agreeable to the opinion of all Travailers and Geographers, who have given an account of either. The rich Furs which are yearly exported hence to moſt places of the World ſufficiently teſtify the ſuperabundancy of Foxes, Sables, Martens, &c. But moſt dangerous it is to travel alone for the many Beaſts of prey which run together in vaſt and innumerable Troops; and thoſe, when the Earth is covered with Snow, very bold and daring, inſomuch that the Inhabitants are in continual danger, and are fain to keep their gates barricado'd from thoſe cruel Animals, to ſecure themſelves and their Cattel; nay, it has been often known that they have undermined Houſes in ſome parts,Fowl. and devoured whole Families at a time. Wild-Fowl I have ſeen of ſeveral kinds, as chiefly Heath-hens, Herns, Wildgeeſe, and Cranes by Millions in a flock together. As for ſmallbirds, by which I mean Larks, Finches and the like, which we hold for great delicacies, they have them in litle, or no eſteem, and that by reaſon of the vaſt ſwarms, for they fly together as thick as Gnats or Infects over a Pond. Theſe are havock'd by the Hawks, Faulcons and Merlins, which are there in a proportionable plenty to the prey. The Rivers and ſtanding Lakes are ſtored with Fish of all kinds,and Fish. which are throughout the whole Land incredibly cheap; in ſum Moſcovia has whatſoever is neceſſary for Food and Rayment, as good and at as eaſy rates, as any other Land in the World, none excluded: altho I do not ſay but that one Province differs much from another, and that every particular Province and Region has ſomething or other, as proper or peculiar to it's ſelf.

Woldomir. Wolodomir is reputed to be of ſo good a Soil, that from one Buſhel of pure Grain ſown is ſometimes 20 or 25 produced in Harveſt and yet Rheſan is reckoned far more fertile than the other, for from every ſingle Seed ariſeth 3 ſtalks,Rheſan. and ſometimes more, which is not commonly found in any other Province in all Ruſsia. This Province affoards likewiſe the beſt and moſt Beavers.

[Page]The Dutchy of Syberia is the moſt woody of all other Provinces within the Empire of the great Czaar, eſpecially towards the Northeaſt where at Braquin there is a Wood which takes it's beginning,Syberia. the end whereof none ever yet was known to find out. This Wood is the main place whence the Moſcovians fetch their richeſt Pelure and Furs, as Ermins, Sables and Black Fox, which is one of the richeſt Pelts in the World. Volske, Volske, Smolens ko and Beleoſor. Uſtioga. Roſtof. Smolensko and Beleaſor deliver vaſt quantities of Skins and Furs, which the Inhabitants bring up yearly to Moſcou and other eminent Marts. Uſtioga is a Province that yields great ſtore of Cattel, and many ſorts of Fiſh, yet very Barren as to grain. Roſtof is the only Province for Salt. Dwino is a barren and dry land, but the Inhabitants obtain great Riches of the Furs, which is the Principal Trading of that Province. Theſe they barter with what Commodities and Neceſſaries they find themſelves deſtitute of. In this Province are many white Bears, which ſeem to live as well by Sea as Land.Viatke. Viatke has great want of Grain, yet ſtore of Fiſh, Honey, Wax, and alſo Pelts. Petzora, is very montanous,Petzora. in which Principality I have heard it averr'd, That there are ſome mountains that require 10 days work to aſcend. The Valleys of this Province are fertile enough,High Mountains. and very good paſturage, yet Corn will not take kindly there. What may be further ſaid of Aſtrachan, and the Tartarian Regions, now in ſubjection to the Great Duke, I ſhall wave till I come to make mention of things, as I found them upon our Arrival there.

CHAP. V. The Form, Nature and Propertie of the Ruſſes. Their ordinary Diet. Their great eſteem of Brandy. Their litigious humors and inclinations to Quarrelling. Their ordinary Habit. Women uſe painting of their Faces. Their manner of their Marriages, and nuptial Solemnities.

THe right Moſcovians, or Ruſsians (for the Tartars now under Protection of the Czar we ſhall ſpeak of in their due place) are moſtly able, corpulent and big, eſpecially of Head, Arms and Legs. The Common ſort are very hard by Nature and patient in extremity, ſeldom pamper their Bodies with ſoft lying, when they reſt, or delicat Diet when they eat. In ſummer they lie upon boards, or at beſt upon [Page] ſtraw, and in Winter on the tops of their Ovens, or Cackels, where Man and Wife, Children and Servants lie all down together, without any diſtinction at all. Utenſils they have not many, but ſo many as themſelves judge needfull, which are Earthen or Iron Pots, Wooden Diſhes, Brandy-and Metheglin-Cups, which they rarely rince. As for rubbing and ſcouring they are meer ſtrangers to it, as alſo to ornaments and Toys, unleſs it be a Figure which they call St. Nicholas, or perhaps ſome other Saint for whom they have ſome particular or extraordinary veneration. Slaves they are by nature, and born to ſervitude and Bondage, ſeldom ever aſpiring ſo high, as to indeavour to make themſelves franc, and yet will be excited to nothing by fair means, or uſe diligence about any affair, ſave what they are driven to by conſtraint and blows: and yet ſo ſweet this Slavery ſeems to be to them, that rather than to become free upon the Deceaſe of their Lords to whom they ow allegiance by nature or otherwiſe, that they will immediatly ſell themſelves durante vitâ to ſome other Patron. They are very prone to Theft, yea and to Murther when they think that they can do it clandeſtinly, or to any advantage, how poor ſoever it be, which ſeems to be primordially occaſioned from the Penury of their Lords, who hardly allow them what is requiſit to ſupport and ſuſtain human Bodies: as for Brandy and Tobacco they hold it but a venial Tranſgreſſion to filch when they can come at it, notwithſtanding the ſtrict and ſevere Laws againſt Theft, in the loweſt nature and leſt importance.

This only is to be applied to the Vulgar ſort, as for thoſe of greater Ability and Rank, they ſpare not for what tends to a voluptuous Life, and indulge their ſences, as much or more than is tolerable. Free they are, and indeed generous enough at their Table, eſpecially when they treat or welcom Strangers, who are very welcom and received with all imaginable Urbanity, on Condition, that they obſerve the Countrey faſhion, which is to bring a Preſent with them, that may countervail more than thrice the value of what is ſet before them: and this if you forget to bring, you may take my word, they'l forget to make you welcom. The Slaves in Moſcou are very hardly dealt withall and poorly fed, but much harder thoſe that are in the open Countrey, where their Lords are ſparing of their Allowance, and therefore connive at their Filching; thinking it falls out at laſt to their own [Page] profit, eſpecially if it be any thing of Food.

The Ruſſes feed moſt of Roots, Pulſe and Fiſh,Their Diet. uſe much Onions and Garlick in their Pottage and alſo for ſauces. Their Bread is moſtly of Courſe Ry. As for Fiſh they eat it rather pickled than freſh, which is plentifull in their Markets, and by reaſon that waſhing and making clean the ſhambles is a kind of an Abomination to thoſe people, you cannot come within a hundred paces of the Market, unleſs you ſtop your noſe, ſo nauſeous and hatefull is the ſmell. Thoſe of the greateſt Rank and ability do in general hold good Tables, but eat moſt Spoon-meat although it were but bread out of Water that Fiſh has been boil'd in. Cavear is a great Dainty amongſt them, but not ſo high in eſteem, there as abroad. When they have drunk more than well agrees with them, ſo that their ſtomach be ſurcharged, they prepare a certain Diſh which they call Pochmelie made up of cold Beef or Mutton ſliced very thin, and Quas: Quas is a Liquor which they uſe as Beer of which it is made, with a Compoſition of Water, Beer-Vinegar, Garlick and Pepper: this Quas being ſo prepared they put their meat into it, and ſeeth it a litle, which afterwards they eat with Spoons. The poorer ſort have a certain Liquor much in uſe among them, which they alſo call Quas, this is made of Water with a litle Bran and Barley-meal, which according to their ability they temper thicker or thinner. The Gentry drink Beer, that there is very ſtrong and heady, but more commonly Metheglin, which they make of the beſt Honey, adding Cloves, Cinnamon, Pepper, Galangal, Cardamom and other Spices: This is a very ſtrong and ſtealing Liquor of it ſelf; yet they think good to mix it with Brandy to make it more effectual. Brandy which they call Wina they covet above all other Liquors, which without any diſcretion or noted difference is drunk both by Spiritual and Temporal, Nobles and Plebeïans, Men and Women, Young and Old, and that at all times of the Day, before and after Meals; Sometimes to add a medicinal vertue they put a litle Pepper amongſt it. Nay, ſo beſotted are the Vulgar with Brandy, that in the ſharpeſt Weather, they will not only part with their Caps or Coats for the Reckoning, but likewiſe with their Boots, Shirts and Stockings, ſo that I have ſeen ſome of them come mother-naked out of the Kaback or Tipling-Houſe. The Common people were formerly ſo irregular and void of Order that they would drink themſelves full, [Page] and afterwards the men and Women, ſetting aſide all Reputation and Modeſty commit ſenſual and beaſtly Actions together: This great Diſorder was lately remedied by the care of the Czar, who, by the advice of the Patriarch, put down all the ſmall Tap-houſes throughout the whole Empire, appointing in every Town and Village one public Houſe, or Kaback, which they are to farm of the Emperour himſelf. They are very covetous of Tobacco, as has been elſewhere ſaid, notwithſtanding the Tenure of a Decree or Mandate promulgated about the year 1634, which ſtrictly forbids every perſon of what degree or quality he may be, to ſmoke it: which nevertheleſs is done privately.

The Ruſsians are generally groſs of Body yet ſubtile enough in affairs of Merchandiſe which they can manage very well. Their Women are much inclined to Goſſiping, and buſie Tatlers, often beat by their Husbands, who ſometimes uſe them unkindly: upon which they ſometimes addreſs themſelves to Court, where the men once convicted over ſuch Crimes are ſent to Syberia. The Emperour conſidering the multitude of Complaints of this nature, has ordained that if any Woman makes complaint without ſufficient Evidence, that the Man is to be tortured on the Rack, which if he ſtands out, the Wife is condemned to exile, her ſelf, before which Law the Court was dayly troubled with ſuch like Differences.

Backbiting and Jarring a property of the Ruſſians.Few people, there are in the World that are more accuſtomed to ſcolding, railing and calumny than theſe, although 'tis very rare to ſee them come to blows, yet much more rarely do they make uſe of their Weapons. This evil cuſtome of abuſing one another oftentimes is the occaſion of Quarrels with Strangers to whom it ſeems a Novelty.

Their Habit.The ordinary Habit of the Citizens, is firſt an upper Coat of a dark green, red, brown or violet-colour'd Silk, open before and on the ſides, and garniſhed with loops, having behind great Capes, almoſt like old-faſhioned Cloaks in the Low-Countreys: Under that they wear another coat of Say or Silk, with a high and ſtiff Collar, theſe have long ſleeves which are tied up round with loops and ſtand Cooks in good ſtead to remove hot Pots and Cauldrons from the fire: Thoſe that have, an intent or deſign to ſteel or murther, uſually have an iron Bullet, or ſome other hard and ponderous thing wherewith [Page] they knock their party down at unawares. Under this they wear yet another Coat which nevertheleſs is not very cloſe, for they affect looſneſs as well in their Habit as in their life. Their ſhirts they tuft with Silk on the back, as alſo the Necks, which the Gentry adorn with Pearls, Gold, Silver, or Precious ſtones. In Summer the Citizens wear white Felts, in Winter Caps turned with Beaver or ſome other Furs, and the Kneeſes, Bojars and other Perſons of the greateſt quality Black Fox and Sables. The Habit of the Women is not ſo much different from that of their Men, as they differ from each other, agreeable to the Quality of the Perſon. They wear generally Caps turned with Sables or other Furs but greater than the Mens, ſet with Pearls and Rubies upon the Crown, under which they let their Hair hang in its full length, theſe are thoſe of higher Rank and Quality; thoſe of meaner Condition have them only turned with red Fox. The Young-women when they grow Marriageable, have their hair knotted up above the crown of the Head in a round ball, but under the age of 10 or 12 years have their Heads all ſhaven, except only two Tufts that hang down on each ſide ſo that they can hardly be diſtinguiſhed from Boys in their Habit, only the Girls are known by the great rings which hang at their Ears. On this manner the Gentry and Citizens are attired, but the Peaſantry as poorly as thoſe of Lifeland, and much after the ſame manner. Their Upper-garment is ordinarily of ſheeps-skins, with a Cap of the ſame ſtuff; their Boots and Shooes are made of the Barks of Trees cunningly plated.

The Women are by nature well proportioned,Painting of faces in uſe among the Ruſsian Women. and fair enough to boot if they did not paint, which they do ſo botchingly that every one may diſcern it. Spanish Wool and Tincture of Brazil-wood it ſeems they do not yet know the uſe of, but inſtead of that uſe Vermilion and Minium, and for Flake, a dull White-Lead, or Ceruſe at beſt.

The Reader may obſerve that their manner of Marriages is far different from that in the Low-Countreys, Of their Marriages. and all Europe elſewhere a Young-man having fixed his eie upon ſome Maid with whom he could be content to enter into a nuptial ſtate, he Courts her and Solicits by Friends to make an Overture. A Ruſsian Youth inclinable to admitt himſelf into the conjugal number detects his purpoſe and deſire to his Parents, or neareſt in Conſanguinity, who thereupon [Page] go about and ſeek out a Virgin ſuiting his Degree and Condition, whom having found, they apply themſelves to her Parents or Guardians, to treat about the ſubject; where neither the Young man nor any near Relation of his are to ſee the Bride, in ſum the Purchaſe is like a Pig in a Poke, for all people of faſhion keep their Daughters chamber'd, ſetting always an old Woman to look to her, who is as vigilant in her Office, as a Turn-key at Wood-ſtreet Counter. And hence it comes that they live in perpetual Jarrs, and contention, when ſometimes in hopes of a ſweet, well-ſhaped, and comely Darling, they are chain'd to a ſtinking, crooked and deformed Hag. This induces me to a Tale of a young Squire, who thinking himſelf old enough to be a man, intimated his Inclinations to a common Broker, or Match-maker, withall conditioning beforehand that he would not come to any concluſion with the Parents of his Party, till he had by ſome means or other got a ſight of her Face, which the man promiſed to do; and accordingly goes to an old Couple who had long intreated him to procure a Husband for their Daughter: this ſaid Couple he acquaints with the buſineſs who no leſs joyfull to underſtand it pray'd him to haſten the Match: now you are to underſtand by the way that their daughter had but one eie, which made ſome difficulty in the carrying on the matter, by reaſon that the Young man would not venture upon the purchaſe, unleſs he ſaw what kind of a Bargain he had: However the Broker gives her inſtructions, how to behave her ſelf in paſſing by the Houſe where this Youngman was to be, and bad her look alwaies on one ſide, which ſhe did. The young man peeping through a creviſe, ſaw her have a good half face, aſſents to the Articles and Propoſitions whatſoever they ſhould be, but comming before the Altar, was ſo concerned that he took an Ax and clove his own head.

They have many quaint Ceremonies about Marriage: thoſe of the higheſt Rank uſe theſe following Rites. The Bridegroom and Bride have each of them one to attend them, to prepare and provide all neceſſaries; theſe they call Swachas. The day before the Wedding the Brides Swacha goes to the Bridegrooms Houſe to provide and furniſh the Brides Chamber and Bed with what elſe is requiſite, being attended with 60, 80, or perhaps 100 Perſons according to the degree and ability of the Parties. Theſe all go in their under-cloaths, bearing [Page] each ſomething upon their Heads which will be requiſite at the Marriage. Having once entred the Chamber ſhe takes the Bed and ſpreads it upon 40 ſmall Garbs of Ry, which is firſt brought thither by her Husband, together with a great number of litle Barrels, containing ſeveral ſorts of Grain, ſet up and down the Room, which perhaps will ſignify Fruitfullneſs in procreation. The next morning the Bridegroom goes to the Houſe of the Bride accompanied with the Prieſt who is to marry them, where they are kindly received by the Friends of the Bride, and invited to ſit down, and here they have 3 ſorts of Diſhes brought before them, which they nevertheleſs touch not. Here the Bridegroom is to tarry ſo long diſcourſing with the Friends of the Bride, till ſhe ſends a Servant to introduct him into her Chamber, where being come ſhe is brought in, ſtately apparrel'd, and ſet by his ſide, but he not ſuffered to look her in the Face, nor ſhe him, and when they cannot withhold their curioſity but offer to look aſide, as longing to ſee that dear Viſage, which ever after they may mutually do with more freedom than any other in the World, there is a Flag or Tablet of red Silk ſet between them, to hinder it. When they are ſet the Brides Swacha plates the Hair of the Bride, and ſets a Gold or Silver Coronet upon her Head, richly ſet with Precious ſtones and Gems, to which are fixed two long Pendants of Diamonds, or (if it be Perſons of a lower Calibre) of baſer ſtones, theſe hang down to their Breaſts. So ſoon as the Bride is dreſs't, the Bridegrooms Swacha likewiſe combs his head; upon which all the Women fall a dancing. After they have danc'd a litle, there come in two young men with a Basket of White bread and a great Cheeſe upon a Barrow, covered with Sables, which is conſecrated by the Prieſt and ſent to the Church. When this Ceremonie is ended, they bring a great Silver Charger, and ſet it upon the Table, in which are laid ſome pieces of Atlas, and Taf, with ſeveral Square plates of Silver, as alſo a handfull of Hops, Barley and Oats, mixt together: upon that that the Swacha ariſes and covers the Face of the Bride, and ſtrows the mentioned things out of the Charger amongſt the Gueſts, when as thoſe that are minded may take up the pieces of Silver. When that is done the Parents of the Parties interchange the Rings of the young people.

When theſe Ceremonies are ended, the Swacha ſets the Bride in a [Page] Riding-ſledge which is richly accoutred and ſet out with Cloth of Gold, and Fringes ſuitable: The Horſe is alſo covered with coſtly Trappings and rich Furrs. Then follows the Bridegroom, accompanied with the Prieſt both on Horſe-back; and after them the Friends on both ſides. When they enter the Church the Bridegroom takes his Place which is covered with Taffataf, whither alſo the Bride is brought. When they are ſet together there are ſeveral Images of Saints ſet up before them, upon which the Prieſt pronounces a Bleſſing: and afterward taking the Bridegroom by the right hand, and the Bride by the left, asks, Are you content to enter the ſtate of Matrimony together? The Parties then anſwering, Yea, the Prieſt ſings the 128 Pſalm, which they likewiſe mutter out after him. This done the Prieſt ſets a Garland upon their Head, uttering theſe Words, Increaſe and multiply, what GOD joyns together let no man ſeperate. Then all the Friends light their Torches, and the Prieſt takes a Glaſs of Red Wine into his Hand, which he delivers over to the Bridegroom and Bride to drink off, then taking the empty Glaſs from them delivers it to the Bridegroom who throws it down and the Bride ſtamps it with her foot to powder, ſaying, So may they fall before our feet, and be crushed to powder, who go about to ſet us at enmity together. Upon that the Married Women ſtrow them with Hemp, wiſhing them Proſperity and a happy union. Theſe Ceremonies being ended they return home again after the ſame manner that they went to Church. So ſoon as they have entred the Houſe, the Bridegroom goes and takes his ſeat at the Table where he receives, and bids all his Gueſts welcom but the Bride is brought directly into her Chamber where the Swacha undreſſes her to the Shift and lays her down upon the bed, The Bride being thus laid ſends to call her Bridegroom by two of her Servants with Torches in their Hands. Immediately upon his entring the Chamber▪ ſhe jumps out of the Bed and puts on a Gown fur'd with Sables, and giving him the hand goes out with him, but her Servants in the mean time put out their Torches by running them into one of the litle Barrels [mentioned in Pag. 142] Thus hand in hand they go to the Table where all the Gueſts ſit. The firſt Diſh which is brought up is a roaſted Pullet, this the Bridegroom himſelf is to carve and throws ſome part thereof over his Shoulder which the Brides Swacha catches in a Napkin, and keeps for a Monument. When the Meal is [Page] done the Bridegroom takes his Bride by the hand and ſo leading her to her chamber they go to bed, upon which all are to go out of the Chamber, and the Muſic which ſits before the Window expecting Notice of it imediately fall a playing, and upon that a noiſe of Trumpetters begin to ſound, and ſometimes the Kettel-Drums to beat. After they have been about an hour in Bed the Swachas come and conduct them to the Bath, where they are both bathed and waſhed with Wine, Water and Metheglin, dulcified with odorous flowers and ſpices, and, as the cuſtome is at Moſcou, the Bride preſents her Bridegroom with a Bathing ſhirt. After they have bathed they come and accompany their Gueſts, who all the time were merry at Table, in which Humors they continue ſometimes a Week, or 10 days, before they depart to their reſpective Lodgings.

The foregoing Ceremonies are ſuch as thoſe of the beſt rank uſe, by which you may perceive more vanity than Reaſon in this Folk: However I think we have no great cauſe to hiſs at them for their folly, ſince we have as many inſignificant Rites amongſt our ſelves, which are with them equally ſenceleſs and as plain puerility, as theirs may be eſteemed by us.

But as for the Plebeïans and Peſantry theirs is after a different manner. The day before the Marriage is to be ſolemnized, the Bridegroom ſends a Kinſman of his own to the Brides Houſe with new apparel, a Cap, a pair of boots, a Comb and a Box of painting and other materials for Rigging. The day following comes the Prieſt and gives the benediction: which done, he brings them a Looking-glaſs requiring them to look into it both at once. In the mean while the Swachas ſtrow the Gueſts with Hops wiſhing that the Bride may be as fruitfull and increaſe her ſtock, as that hopefull Weed. After that comes another who preſents the Bride with a Sable or Beaver-skin, withall wiſhing her ſo many Children as there are Hairs upon the Hide. Theſe Ceremonies ended at home they go to Church, and are married. in manners as before.

After the Wedding is paſt, the Women keep at home for ſometime together, not daring to ſtirr out.

CHAP. VI. Divorcement among the Ruſſes and the ſundry occaſions thereof. Their Superſtition about Cleanneſs and Ʋncleanneſs. Baths, and the uſe of the ſame. The Hardineſs and Patience of the Ruſſes in ſuffering the Extremities of Heat, or Coldneſs. Some ſtrange cuſtomes among the Ruſſes. Solemnities at the Burial of their Dead.

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SO much, kind Reader, may ſerve by way of account about their Marriages, as to what I have obſerved my ſelf, although I am ſenſible ſome have written otherwiſe and deſcribed theſe Solemnities much different to what I have found them, yet rather willing to fee with my own eies than with anothers, ſo I thought fit likewiſe, rather to give you theſe few Memorials with my own pen than (as ſome Plagiaries of late have done) tranſcribe out of others.

Divorcement among the Ruſſes.If we regard the forementioned Manner of their procuring Wives, without any former ſight or converſation, Reaſon will inform us, that they muſt needs live diſcontented Lives, which oftentimes turn to Divorcement at laſt. Divorcements are with them very frequent and thoſe obtained upon very eaſy terms; for when either partie finds themſelves too weak at blows, and not able to repugn the other, 'tis only to ſhave and betake themſelves to a Cloyſter, whence they may never be brought out by any legal mean. The Man ſo going into a Cloyſter is capable of Holy Orders, after a certain Term of years, if he be accordingly qualified. They are alſo divorced when either Party is convict of Fornication, and the Offender confined to a Monaſtery. Barrenneſs is alſo the Occaſion of Divorcement, upon which the Wife becomes a Nun, and the Husband may marry again within ſix Weeks.

But thoſe who marry again after once Divorced are for ever after excluded the Church, yet may enter the Porch or Gallery, but if they be divorced a ſecond time and married a third, they are totally Excluded the Church and Congregation.

They have ſeveral ſuperſtitious Ceremonies concerning purity, as to the outward, and carry themſelves very ſtrictly according to the Traditions of the Church. They hold it not for ſo hainous a Sin [Page] to perform the Works of Unchaſtity with a Woman, as to do it in preſence of an Image, or having their Croſs about them, for that they lay off upon ſuch Occaſions, and if it be in the Room where an Image hangs, they draw a Curtain before it, as if they were ſure that that Image was an Informer, and one that got Bread and Butter for telling School-tales.

They are very obſerving of their Duty in the great Faſt at which time if any man among them chance to ſleep, he is forbidden to communicate, during the Term of a year and 9 days. If it be a Prieſt he is ſuſpended from Office and Benefice for a whole year; but if a Proponent, he is rendred incapable of taking any ſacred Function upon him ſo long as he lives.

They hold it for a Crime unpardonable for a Ruſſian to marry with a Stranger, but to commit Adultery with a Heretic-Woman only Venial and pardonable in it's own nature, but if a Woman of that nation become Proſtitute to another of a different Opinion to their own, it is not accounted ſo hainous, by reaſon that the Offſpring may be educated in their Religion, and conſequently tends to the Increaſe of the Church, for they have a Maxim contrary to that of S. Paul, Ne faciamus mala ut eveniant bona, Let us not do Evil that Good may come of it.

Theſe external ſuperſtitions of purification are the main reaſon that every perſon that is of any Conſiderable Ability, has a Bathing-tub in his Houſe, which in Turky and Perſia are equally made uſe of for Purification and Health. They have alſo Common Baths in every Town and Village, whither both Men and Women, without any diſtinction have recourſe; running in and out naked, only ſome of the Women for Modeſty ſake have a few Bur-dock leaves about their middle, which are firſt dried and afterward laid to ſteep in Oil of Olives, which afterwards they rub their Bodies with, in the Sweating-tub. They can indure extremity of Heat and Cold to a Miracle, for I have ſeen them run out of the Water, which I could not ſuffer my finger in, and of a ſudden over Head and Ears in Snow, where they would lay a quarter or half an Hour and then into the Bath again, that remained ſcalding hot, which if one ſhould do who is not hardned to it from the very Cradle, he were ſure to leave his skin behind him. Beſides the ſeveral Inſtances I have already given you, [Page] I have ſeen the Children walking over the Ice, without either Boots, Shoes or Stockings, and that in ſuch piercing cold Weather that we could not go out of Doors.

The Dutch Merchants that have their Reſidence at Moſcou, have alſo (conformable to the manner of the Countrey) their Baths, which they ſtrow with odoriferous Spices and Flowers, and make frequent uſe thereof. When they have bathed ſo long as they think good, they have a Retiring-room in which is a Sweating-tub or Stove, whither they go and rub themſelves.

The Ruſſians as they differ from all other Nations as well in Religion as in Habit, ſo they have ſeveral Cuſtomes, Geſtures and Actions proper ſolely to themſelves. Their Shirt they wear above their Breches and tie it above the Waſt with a Girdle, like their upper Garments; When they Whiſtle they do it through their Teeth, not with their lips, ſaying, that in ſo doing they abuſe their true ſhape in which GOD has formed them: When they are ſurprized either with Wonder, or a ſudden Danger, they do not throw back their Head, like the Hollanders, nor ſhrink up their Shoulders, as do the Spaniards, but throw their Head firſt upon one Shoulder, and then upon another, or perhaps turn it round, as a Fencer flouriſhes his Rapier, or an Enſign his Colours in token of Victory.

When they pray they do it not upon their knees as we do, thinking that GOD is diſpleaſed with ſuch an irregular poſture: and when they write they never make uſe of a Table, altho they have one at their elbow, but alwaies upon their knees; and what they write is altogether in Rolls, paſting one ſheet to another as they write them. Fatneſs they hold for a prime token of Beauty, as alſo long fore head and eies for which they pull and draw as much as they can to correct nature, which in things of ſmaller moment they ſeem to abhor and deteſt, if a property of other People.

Ceremonies in Viſitation of their Sick.About the Sick and Burial of their Dead the Ruſſes have theſe following Cuſtomes. When any lies Sick, and by his Friends thought in danger of long Continuance or Death, they ſend for a Prieſt who adminiſters the Communion to him, he firſt confeſſing the moſt noted Sins he can remember that he has done in his life time, to the Prieſt alone, adding a Promiſe and Reſolution to live a pious and devout Life, if GOD grant him recovery. When he has communicated, [Page] they ſhave, anoint and put him in a Monks-hood, which they call the Seraphic Weed: After which they adminiſter no more Phyſic to him, but commend him to the Grace of GOD. Now if it happen that he recover, he is obliged to abandon Wife, Children and Eſtate for ever, and betake himſelf to a Monaſtery, where he is to ſpend the remainder of his days.

But if our Patient dy,Ceremonies and Queſtions propounded to the dead. then all the Neighbours and Friends come together to bewail the deceaſed asking the Corps, how he came to dy, and for what reaſon, for what defect or want, like thoſe of Madagaſcar, remembred in my firſt Voyage. I remember that having occaſion to viſit a Countreyman of mine upon a Munday morning I entred the Houſe, where the Maſter was dead and the Corps laid out, above a ſcore of old Women, were ſet round about him, and ſpeaking to him as if they expected ſome anſwer from him; but above all, his Wife began to howl and yell aloud, who in his life time wiſhed him a thouſand times in Hell, for he behaved himſelf very ſeverely towards her. Oh, quoth ſhe, Timminni Do Shinca [for that was his name] my Deareſt, how haſt thou left me thus? What failing didſt thou diſcover in me? Did I ever neglect to paint my ſelf? Have I not brought forth a fair Iſſue? Hadſt not thou all things at Command? Metheglin I am ſure we had always in plenty, nay, and Brandy too. What then perſwaded thee to leave me deſolate and forlorn, Oh remember the diſconſolate ſtate of Widdow-hood and return to the merry World, &c. Theſe, and many other fooliſh expreſſions by way of Interrogation, ſhe accoſted him with, which made me at firſt to think that he was not fully dead. So ſoon as the Party is departed they open the Windows, and ſet Baſons of Holy-water, together with ſeveral Diſhes of meat beſide the Body, to relieve his Wants on ſo long and tedious a Journey, as do the Circas Tartars; which ſeems to be the Reliques of Heatheniſm, not long ſince profeſſed in many parts of Ruſſia. Imediately upon his departure they ſend Brandy, and Beer, with other Liquors and Preſents to the Prieſt, who is to pray for his Soul. The Body they waſh from Head to foot, as doe the Jews, then winding it in a ſheet, put it into a Coffin which is hollowed out of a Tree, and ſo carried to Church, where they beſprinkle it with holy Water, and perfume it with Incenſe; which done they ſay Maſs, and with ſeveral Hymns commit it to the Ground.

But if a Perſon die without adminiſtration of the Extreme Unction, [Page] be Murthered, or Frozen to death, or die by any unnatural or violent means, whether caſual, or thereto condemned to ſatisfy Juſtice, the Corps is not permitted to enter the Sanctuary, but carryed to a place to that end appointed, which they call Zemski Precaus, where it is expoſed to public view, and if it be a perſon unknown, is to remain there 3 or 4 days to ſee if any will own the Body, which if none come to claim it is immediately carried to another Place without Town, which they call Boghze Dome, that is Gods Houſe, and there thrown into a great Pit, where ſometimes a Hundred or more Bodies lie on a Heap uncovered, till about Midſummer, at what time, the Prieſts go and cover them, with a few Rites and Ceremonies.

The Ceremonies which are uſed in ſome places in Ruſſia differ from others. About Moſcou the Corps is follow'd by a Train of Gentlewomen who are neareſt in Conſanguinity or Affinity, who with a great Noiſe and Howling bewail the early departure of their Friend, then preſently all are ſilent, that not one is ſo much as heard to whiſper, or give a Sigh, and then on a ſudden elevate their Voice and yell out like ſome of the more bruitiſh and ſavage Irish.

On each ſide the Herſe go the Prieſts, Chaplains and Monks, bearing Images, Torches, and a Thurible, or Incenſe-pan, which is all the while waved to and again, to expell Evil Ghoſts which they believe ſtill haunt the Body of the Deceaſed. After the Corps follow the Friends and Acquaintance, without any order, each carrying a Wax-tapour in the Hand. When they come to the Grave, the Coffin is opened and the Incenſe pan ſwing'd 3 times over the Corps in remembrance of the H. Trinity, and then the Image of that Saint which he in his Life time made choice of for his Patron, is thrown into the Coffin with him, upon which all his Relations come near and take their laſt view of him, kiſs the Coffin and go backward. When the Friends have ſo taken their leave the Prieſt delivers him a Letter ſuperſcribed to Saint Nicholas, containing a hearty recommendation of the Deceaſed. A copy of one of theſe came once to my hand which before I had Tranſcribed it out, was taken from me by a Prieſt being the Brother of the Gentleman who lent it me, for it is not lawfull for a Ruſsian himſelfe to know the Contents, much leſs for a Heretic. The Paraphraſe of the Fragment was after this Manner,

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Great and Powerful Saint, Beloved of Men and Angels.

Our immaculat Brother, and Partaker of Mortality, who leaves us in this World, more worthy than to dwell amongſt men below, deſires to be commended to thy Tuition, whom we heartily commit to thy Protection and Care. Receive him we intreat thee, Oh Wonderfully Great, and Powerfull Saint, and let him reſt with immortal and glorious Angels. Piety was his Ioy, Shrift his Delight. Earth what he hated, and Heaven the Object of his love; prayers were his Exerciſe and—

This fragment is all I can give you of the Letter, which as I told you was taken from me. The body being interred they return home, where they junket and drink till they forget their Sorrow. This feaſt dures ſometimes a Moneth or 40 days, according to the ability of the Perſon: among others it is not cuſtomary to make one long Feaſt at the Funeral, but an anniverſary Meal, and celebrate that ſame day every year in remembrance of the Deceaſed.

CHAP. VII. The Religion and Church-Government of the Ruſſians. The Patriarch and his Office. Of their Sacraments, &c.

THe Moſcovians are profeſſedly Chriſtians,The Religion and Church-Government of the Ruſſians. but tainted with many ſuperſtitious Ceremonies about Imagery and other Relicts of Gentiliſm; which the good Emperour Baſilius about the year 989. rooted out of his Empire, baptizing himſelf, and cauſing all his Subjects to do the like. They boaſt mainly of their Continuance and Conformity with the Primitive Church, which they ſay is ſtill the ſame in purity without the ſtains of Innovation, as indeed in many things it ſeems to be nearer than the Church of Rome, aſwell in matter of Faith as Government of the Church.

[Page]The Church of Moſcovia has like that of Rome, one ſupreme Head, who is the Patriarch. Under the Patriarch are 4 Metropolitans, 4 Arch-Biſhops, beſides many other Biſhops, Abbots and the Inferior Clergy. The Patriarch is almoſt Sovereign in Spiritual Affairs, having an abſolute and immediate power without any appendency on the Temporal Government unleſs it be in caſe of inducing Hereſy, upon which he muſt Submit to a Synod, as in the year 1662, a General Council was called, and the Patriarch ſummoned to make his appearance; at what time he was impeached for Innovations, and indevouring to alienate the preſent condition of the Church and reform it's Government by diminiſhing Image-worſhip, which he held for litle better than Idolatry. After many days ſitting that Council thought fit to confine him to his Manſion-Houſe, and ordain the Firſt Metropolitan in his room, who was then living when I was at Moſcou. The Revenues of the Patriarch, as alſo of the Metropolitans, are very great, out of which they are obliged to levy and Maintain an Army of 15000 men, during the time of War.

The Habit of the Patriarch, and the Metropolitans differ but litle. The Patriarch has always a great Croſier born before him, or a litle one in his hand and ſometimes both, this they call a Poſok. Mitres they wear only upon Convocations or high Aſſemblies, and upon ſolemn Occaſions. Abroad they are diſtinguiſhed by a high Cap, flat at top like the Switzers, or Yeomen of the Guard. Next their Bodie they wear a Caſſoc, and above that a long Gown or rather a Pall, which is born up by two Gentlemen. The Inferior Clergy and Prieſts wear a Cap but not ſo high as that of the Superiors. This Cap is given them when they are ordained by the Biſhops, at what time they ſhave their Heads, and ſuffer it to grow no more, ſave in two litle tufts juſt above their ears.

There is a Law among them that whoſoever beats one of thoſe Clerks ſo, that his cap fall to the ground, he is liable to a very ſevere penalty (if I well remember to looſe his hand) which nevertheleſs happens frequently in the Cabac: but to prevent the worſt when a Layman is minded to beat one of thoſe Muſhrooms, he firſt takes off his Cap and then trounces him off ſo long as he will, which done he ſets the Cap upon the right Block again.

[Page]The Clergy are not forbidden Marriage, nor none that ſerve at the Altar, but on the contrary are obliged to marry, and that only once,Of the Marriage of the Clergy. gathering that from the Saying of S. Paul. A Bishop ought to be the Husband of one Wife. Nor is it lawfull for him to marry a Widow. If a Prieſts wife come to die before him, he is not only injoyned by the Church to remain a Widdower, but alſo to leave the Altar, yet not wholly to lay down the Prieſtly Function, for he may ſit in the Chore or Chauntry and aſſiſt at Mattins and Veſpers, as alſo at Adminiſtration of the Sacraments, as far as it is done without the Verge of the Altar. For this reaſon the Prieſts are beſt matched, as uſually making much of their Wives, and treating them more gently than the Laïty generally do, leſt by hard uſage they ſhould drive them into melancholy, and conſequently ſend them too early out of the World, which ſends them as ſuddenly from the Altar.

Baptiſm they hold forth as a Sacrament very neceſſary,Of Baptiſm. for which reaſon they make as litle delay as may be between the Womb and the Font. If they fear the Child be weak they have it Baptized at home, but never in the ſame Room where it is born, for that they hold unclean. The Conſponſors or God-fathers being come to the Church Porch, the Prieſt meets them and repeats the Benediction. The Godfathers deliver 9 Wax-candles to the Prieſt, which he places round about the Font afterwards turning about toward the Eaſt mutters out a Verſicle or two, then taking the Incens-pan goes round about the Font, which done he ſings a Pſalm or Hymn, making a brief Oraizon, and after that demands the name of the Infant which is delivered him in writing. So ſoon as he has read the Billet, askes, whether the Child beleeves in the Sacred Trinity? and, Whether he utterly Forſake the Devil, &c. To which they confidently reply in the Affirmative. Then the Prieſt pronounces this Adjuration, Get thee hence, than unclean Spirit, and make way for the Holy Ghoſt, Then he takes the child into his Arms, blowing three times in his Face, and making a croſs upon his Head, dips it three times in Water, Saying, I baptize thee in the Name of the FATHER, and of the SON, and of the HOLY GHOST. Having thus plunged the Infant, he puts ſome Salt into it's mouth, anointing the Fore head, Breaſt and Hands with conſecrated Oil, and then draws a clean white ſhirt over it's Body, which done he ſaith, Now thou art cleanſed from thy Sins. Laſt [Page] of all he hangs a Croſs about it's neck of Gold, Silver, Tin, or Ivory, with the Image of ſome Saint, to whoſe Patronage he is ſpecially committed and commended, and ſo the Sum of this Sacrament is performed. The Water is thrown away into a Cave of the Earth, becauſe it is impure. If any Perſon be ſo far beſotted, as to become a Proſelyte and embrace their Religion, he muſt renounce his former Baptiſm, and be rebaptized after their manner, firſt ſpitting 3 times over his ſhoulder in token of Abhorrency of his former Errors.

Their Communion,The Sacrament which we call Coena Domini, or the L. Supper they hold forth likewiſe as neceſſary to Salvation, receiving it in both kinds, yet not as is uſual among thoſe of the Reformation, for they break the Bread into the Wine, which the Communicant takes with a ſpoon. This Sacrament is alſo adminiſtred to Children, and all under the Notion of Tranſubſtantiation, altho not in ſo full a Sence as the Romaniſts. The Sick do likewiſe partake of this Sacrament, which is given them upon their Death-bed, as the Hoſt in the Church of Rome.

Auricular Confeſſion, Confeſſion is alſo a Sacrament held forth by them, and is much after the manner of the Church of Rome, and are injoyned to Penance according to the Nature and Degree of the Sin, which they obey wondrous well, and if the Crime be very Hainous, they waſh themſelves at the Epiphany.

and Faſts.They have alſo their weekly and annual Faſts; Four times in the year happens the latter, in which they ſhow themſelves outwardly zealous, agreeable to the literal Injunction of the Church; but are at no time ſo looſe and wanton as then, paſſing away the time in Drinking, Dancing, Gaming Whoreing, and what not? No time, nay all the time in the year round affoards not more news of Murther: and ſince the Main Faſt happens in the Winter, there are many ſo far beſotted that they are not able to find the way home, but dropping aſleep by the way are ſo frozen to death; whence (if they eſcape the Wolf and Bear) they are carried to the Zemski Precaus, and from thence to the Bogzi Dome, of which we have already made mention.

CHAP. VIII. The Juriſdiction of the Czaar, his Titles, Revenues and ſtrict Juſtice.

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ALl Ruſsia together with the ſeveral Kingdoms and Principalities is ſubject to one Sovereign Monarch,MARC. 1669. Juriſdiction of the Czar. whom they call From the Greek Word [...] Caeſar. Czaar. The name of the Emperour when I was there, was Alexie Michailowitz Romanou, that is, Alexius, Son of Michael, Roman; for ſo they uſe that Patronymic Roman, from Ivan Baſilowitz, or Joannes Baſilides, who was a Roman by deſcent, and of Imperial Lineage. The Arms of the Emperour are as follows. ‘Sol, an Eagle diſplayed with 2 necks, Saturn, in chief a Mitre Imperial Mars, On the Nombril, on an Eſcutcheon Jupiter, the Chevalier Saint George, armed proper, and mounted on a Horſe Luna, under his feet a Dragon Venus.’

The Czaar is abſolute Sovereign and Lord, conferring Dignities and Honours, Subordaining Miniſters of State and Officers whether Civil or Military, Coining Money, raiſing and leſſening the Value of the ſame. Making Peace and Proclaiming War at his own diſcretion, and in ſhort whatſoever any King in the World can claim as Praeroguative. His Title is as follows.

ALEXIUS Michaïlowitz Romanow, by the grace of GOD Emperour of the Greater, Leſs and White Ruſſia, Lord of Moſcou, Kief, Wolodimera and Novogorod, Czaar of Caſan, Czar of Aſtrachan, Czar of Syberia, Lord of Pletskow, Great Duke of Smolensko, Tweer, Jugoria, Permia, Weatka, Bulgaria, &c. Lord and Great Duke of Novagarada within the Low-Countreys of Zernigou, Rheſan, Roſtof, Jeriſlaw, Belooſeria Udoria, Obdoria, Condinia, and abſolute Sovereign of the Northern parts as alſo of Iveria, Cartalinia, Graſinia, Carbadinia, Kirkaſſia and Georgia, and of many other Provinces and Dominions in the Eaſt, West and North, Haereditary Lord and Soveraign,

[Page]As the Titles of the Prince are great, ſo his Revenues are conformable.Imperial Revenues The Kabacks or Taverns are altogether farmed through the Empire of the Emperour himſelf, whereof there are 3 at Novogorod which bring up yearly Ten Thouſand Gilders, and ſo all others according to proportion. The Impoſition upon Iron, Corn, Salt, Tar, Furs and other Commodities are very conſiderable. If ſo the Revenues of this Prince be Great, ſo likewiſe his Court is as ſumptuous, and Houſe-keeping very Royal, beſides the vaſt Charges in maintenance of the Strelitzers, who are exactly and duly paid.

Of their Iuſtice.Their Laws, as we have elſewhere ſaid, are very rigorous againſt Malefactors, and quite different from other Nations. The firſt and lighteſt is the Battoki, which is when the Patient is to lie upon his belly, then come two men, one ſitting down upon his Neck and the other upon his Leggs, who beat him till the Judge or Officer commands them to hold up. The Knutten is a Puniſhment of a higher degree, and ſuch as uſually thoſe that ſell Brandy, Metheglin or Tobacco without a ſpecial Licenſe from the Czar, are puniſhed with, and is after this manner: The Executioners Servant takes the patient and ſtrips him from the middle downwards, and takes him upon his back, which done the Executioner with a ſcourge of Thongs made of a raw Elks-hide dried gives him a certain number of ſtripes, according to a Ticket which is delivered him immediately before he takes the ſcourge in his hand. This puniſhment is exceeding ſevere, and yet not ſufficient to ſuppreſs continual ſmuckling, and ſelling by ſtealth, which the more they are puniſh'd and threatned, the more eager they are to do it. The Executioner and his Office are not there ſo contemptible as with us, for it is ſometimes purchaſed by the moſt wealthy Merchants in the Land. Other Crimes are puniſhed with Chapping off a Hand or a Foot, and ſometimes only a Finger according to the enormity of the crime. Falſe Coiners have liquid mettal poured down their Throats: and Raviſhment of Virgins [or as our Laws call it a Rape] is expiated by gelding of the Delinquant, of which if he recover well and good, but it is very rare that any does.

CHAP. IX. Celebration and Solemnity of Palm-Sunday. The Departure of the Author out of Moſcou to Aſtrachan. Heads and Officers. They ſet Sail. A heavy ſtorm. Arrival at Niſen-Novogorod; Plenty of Proviſion at Niſen. A deſcription of the famous River Wolga. Beginning of the Cerem Tartars. Their Cuſtoms and Nature, Their Idolatrie. Ceremonies about the Dead. Their Habit, Polygamy, &c.

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ON the 18th of April being Palm-Sunday was celebrated a great Feaſt, wherein was much Triumph and Joy manifeſted with Arches and Pageants, amongſt which was our Savior his manner of riding to Ieruſalem. This Solemnity was performed with an infinite number of People, and led by the Emperour himſelf in Perſon, attended with all the Bojars and the greateſt perſonages about Court. The Patriarch ſat upon a Horſe apparelled all in white, repreſenting the L. Jeſus Chriſt. The Czar being ſupported by two Bojars, led the Horſe by the Bridle, being richly apparreled, with an Imperial Diadem upon his Head. The Patriarch, as was ſaid before, was arrayed with a long white Stole, with a Hierarchichal Infula or Mitre upon his Head, richly ſet with Pearls. In his right Hand was a Croſs of Gold ſet with Diamonds and precious ſtones, with which he ſigned the Multitude that came thronging to him with great Reverence and Devotion. He ſat croſs over the Horſe, which Horſe was ſet out with ſplendid Trappings and richly Cappariſon'd, after the manner of an Aſs. On each ſide the Patriarch went ſeveral Biſhops; and the Superior Clergy, with white Surplices, Having Thuribles. The Hoſt, the Chalice, the Pax, Books, Bells, Tapours and other things uſed at Maſs, beſides a great number of Flags. The Way from the palace to the Creſcent was all laid with Red-cloath. Here it was where the Patriarch firſt took Horſe: the Horſe being there tied to a pale. After the Patriarch follow the Bojars, bearing a huge Tree, woven and wound with Silk and Ribbons, as alſo many ſorts of Fruits thereto annexed. Herein ſate ſeveral litle Children, with Apples, green Twigs and Branches. After all came the Mobile, ſtrowing the way with Branches which they had in their Hands, crying out, Hoſanna Son of David, bleſſed is he that commeth in the name [Page]of the Lord, Hoſanna in the Higheſt, &c. When they were returned to the Creſcent, the Patriarch gave the Benediction to the Multitude and ſo the Proceſſion ended. In the Evening the Patriarch ſent the Czar 200 A piece of Money valuing about 9s. 6d. Their Celebration of Eaſter Roebels, for his good ſervice in leading the Horſe. I alſo ſaw their Paſchal Solemnities, at what time they continually kiſs one another at meeting, ſaying, Chriſt is riſen, with one delivering a died Egg, and therefore at this time they have many Booths all over the Town where they have Eggs of all colours to ſell. Theſe Ceremonies are ſo univerſally obſerved, that none paſſes the ſtreet without giving and receiving of Eggs of what Condition or Degree ſoever they be. Towards the Evening, they entertain one another, every one in the beſt manner he can, as well Clergy as Laïty, and now are all the Taphouſes, or Kabacks crouded with men, where they toſs off whole Bowls of Metheglin, Brandy and ſtrong Beer, till they fall together by the Ears.

Departure from Moſcou to Aſtrachan.On the 4 of May, we departed with a A ſmall Veſſel almoſt like a Huy, about 30 Tuns burthen. Arrival at Colomna. Strough from Moſcou, which was laden with Ammunition and proviſion. We were 15 men in all who were ſent down with this Veſſel. We made quick paſſage down the River, for the next day we arrived at Colomna, which is 134 English Land-miles by Water, but thwart the Land about 50. This City is well fortified with a ſtrong Wall, and many Turrets. It is ſeated upon the Moſqua, having a long Wooden Bridge over that River.

On the 6 dito we came into the River Oka, making a deep and broad ſtream where it unites with the Moſqua. Here we ſaw a very fair Village called Dydenof, by ſome Gedino, and about the Evening we arrived at the Wharf where the Ship Eagle lay, having the Imperial Paludiments on her Stern. We were very kindly received by the Heer Cornelius Roeckhoven Coll: and Mr. Lambert the Maſter, who expreſſed great joy for our arrival. Beſides thoſe were other Officers preferred aboard the Ship, to wit Monſr. Stark Lieut. Coll. 2 Captains, a Chirurgeon a Jeweller, an Interpreter, and a Purſer. Their Pay was as follows,

The Collonel | 100 | Rix-dollars | per Moneth.
The Lieutenant Collonel | 30
The Captains | 40
The Chirurgeon | 20
The Interpreter | 10
The Purſer | 10
Captain Butler | 160 | Gilders
The Maſter of the Ship | 100
The Mate | 60
The Carpenter | 80
Carpenters Mate | 36
Foremaſt-men, each | 50
My ſelf | 57

Our whole Company conſiſted in 20 Dutch.

On the 12 we ſet Sail from Dydenof which was the Wharf where the Ship Eagle was built,MARC. 1669. conducted by the Col. Boekhoven about 2 leagues downward. The ſame day in the Afternoon we came to a Town called Nicholo, where we found proviſion incredibly cheap. Here I bought ſome Wild-fowl in the Market about as big as Wild-gees, for a A coin about the value of a Penny. Kopeke the Couple, and ſatisfyed my Chapman to the full.

On the 13 we came to Omula, which is a Village about 40 [English] Leagues from Dydenof. After two days Sailing we came to Pereſlaf, which is a ſmall City, rebuilt, as I have been told out of the Ruins of Reſanski, which formerly was a famous Town, ſurprized by the Tartars, demoliſhed, and the Inhabitants, removed to Pereſlaf.

On the 17 we came cloſe to Reſanski where we viewed the Ruins of the City, which teſtified the former Greatneſs and Strength of the Town. From hence we ſailed to the Eaſtern ſide of the River, where we ſaw many famous Houſes and ſtately Buildings, with Fair Orchards and Groves.

On the 18 we ſaw many goodly Towns and Religious Houſes, and at night arrived at Novoſolki, a Place ſolely belonging to the Arch-Biſhop. Here we bought proviſion, and all kinds of Refreſhments [Page] that the place affoarded, finding all things very cheap and good: and from hence we ſailed away paſſing by Schilko, Tericho, Tinersho Slavada, Koponaw and other fair Towns.

On the 22 we came to Kaſſienie-gorod, a beautifull litle City, and the Reſidence of Prince Reskitski. Our Captain and Maſter intended to viſit the ſaid Prince, and for that end came here to Anchor, but coming a ſhoar underſtood that he was departed for Moſcou, with the old Princeſs his Mother. However they went to view the Palace, and were magnificently entertained by the ſteward, of whom after the Exchange of ſome Rarities on both ſides, by way of Preſents, they took their leaves. Kaſsieme-gorod has been formerly a Hold of the Tartars, but the preſent Prince at the age of 12 years ſurrendred it up to the great Duke of Moſcovy, whom he as then obtained to be his Protector.

On the 23 we ſailed paſt many fair Villages, Churches, Monaſteries and other Houſes built for Religious uſes, coming the next morning to anchor before Leshi, which is a very great Town, but not walled.

On the 24 we came before Moruma, a Town inhabited partly by Ruſses and partly by Mordwin-Tartars whoſe Countrey begins here, although both the City Moruma and the Circumjacient Land-ſhip is at preſent under ſubjection of his Majeſty of Ruſſia.

On the 27 we ſailed by Prewas Palo and ſome other leſſer Towns. Near this Place are two Rivers which vent themſelves into the Wolga, the one called Morſna Reka on the ſtarboard-, and the other Kleſna on the larboard-ſide in ſailing downward, which laſt comes from the City VVolodomur. The Bank on the one ſide is very high Land, and ſteep, yet above level and fair Land; but to the Northward the Bank is level with the Water, and the Land woody and deſert, nether inhabited nor tilled to any purpoſe.

On the 28 we ſailed paſt Isbuilets, and Troitska, dropping anchor before Slowoda.

A great Storm.On the 24 we ſet Sail and came that day before Dudwina, where we were forced to remain 4 days and 4 nights, by reaſon of the tempeſtuous weather.

The boiſtrous Winds and Rain ſomewhat abated we ſet ſail, and on the 3 of Iune came before Nofunki, and the 8 before the great [Page] City Niſen Novogorod, ſituate on an angle of the great River Wolga, IUNE. 1669. which is there conjoined with the Oka.

Niſen-gorod lies in the Latitude of 36 degr. and 28 min. under a wholſome climat, and in a fertile Countrey.Niſen-gorod. It is well fortified with Walls, Bulwarks, Towers, Men and Ammunition of War. About 2 [English] miles without the City live more Inhabitants than within, being Ruſſes and Tartars, but in ſubjection to the great Duke. The Germans had formerly built two Churches here, one for the Lutherans and another for the Calviniſts, both which went to decay upon their leaving the Town. It is here very cheap living, and all things neceſſary for the ſuſtenance of Human Bodies may be procured at eaſy Rates. The Paſtures abound with Cattel the Villages with Poultry, the Woods with Veniſon, the Rivers with Fiſh, and the Land with Corn, Fruit, Roots and Plants. Butter we bought there for 10 gl. the 100 lb. [which is after the rate of 2d per pound] and yet we eſteemed that the deareſt Purchaſe we bought there. We bought there a good ſort of Linnen for 2 ſtivers the Ell, which ſerved us well for ſhirting and other uſes aboard the Ship. And by reaſon of the Cheapneſs of Proviſion and all neceſſaries, we received here 6 Moneths pay: and becauſe that they had here an excellent Ropeyard, the Heads of our Company thought good to leave the Lieutenant Schack with our chief Boatswain, to look after ſome Ropes which we had given order to be made, as alſo to fit us with new Anchors.

On the 21 dito we put off from Niſen and left the Wolga. Deſcription of the River Wolga. This is reputed one of the greateſt and longeſt Rivers in the whole World, taking it's beginning in the higheſt Mountains of Nova-Zembla, running paſt Ieriſlaf, or Ieriſlaw, Tweer and other eminent Cities, whence with many Windings and Turnings it runs through the Land till it come at Aſtrachan, where it divides it ſelf into ſeveral Heads like the Nile, and ſo looſes it ſelf into the Caſpian Sea, receiving by the way many great and navigable Rivers, and thoſe moſtly on the Northeaſt ſide: from whence by reaſon that the River receives it's Water, it is ſubject to riſing and falling, as at Iune it is at higheſt, and in Iuly begins again ſuddenly to decreaſe, inſomuch that it is in all places full of Banks and Sand-beds, as hereafter, in the purſuit of my Journal ſhall more particular and ample mention be made; whereas when it is increaſed to it's heighth, one may ſail over ſeveral [Page] Iſlands. This ſaid River is in ſome places more than 3 [English] miles broad, and proving in other places very narrow makeing at each ſide of the River a Whirl-pool, which cannot be avoided without great difficulty. The courſe of this River from Niſen to Caſan is moſtly Eaſt and South-Eaſt; but from Caſan to Aſtrachan and ſo to the Mare Hyrcanum, or Caſpian Sea altogether South. On each ſide the River you have for the moſt part very good Land and many fair Towns, as I have already noted, whoſe Inhabitants are ſedulous in their Husbandry, and are well ſupplyed with the particular Products of all the ſeveral Landſhips adjacent on this noble River, as alſo with many ſorts of excellent Fiſh. In times paſt the Wolga was much incommodated by the Coſaks of Don, who being very ſtrong in ſmall ſhipping, would ſometimes, ſurprize, aſſail and take the Ruſsian Fiſhermen and Strougs.

On the 22 we paſſed by the Iſlands Tlerinski and Subſinski, but towards the Evening were fain to drop anchor, by reaſon of the many Sands and Banks.

On the 23 we weighed but found our Anchor faſt among the Roots of the Trees, which coſt us ſome pains to get clear. About mid-day we got the Iſland Dioploy, about 3 in the afternoon Muſa, and about the Evening Kremonsky, where we anchored.

On the 24 we proceeded forward and got Parmino, where we took in Proviſion, which we found very good and of a low Price. From hence we looſed, and ſailed by many pleaſant Iſlands, Towns, and an Excellent proſpect from Land, which was ſtored with Cattel, fruitful Dales, Woods, Meadows, Currents and whatſoever natural Delights that may content the heart of Man.

On the 29 dito we came to VVaſili-gorod a litle Town on the Weſt ſide of the Wolga, and becauſe it was here a level Countrey we tooke the heighth of the Arctic Pole, which we found 55 degr. and 50 min. above the Horizon. This ſaid Town was then without Gates or Walls, and is built moſtly of wood, ſave only Public Edifices, and Religious Houſes, which are there but few, ſince it has not been long in poſſeſſion and ſubject to the Czar, or great Duke of Moſcovy. On the South-ſide of VVaſiligorod, is a litle River called the Soura, which here guſhes out with a violent ruſhing and buzzing into the VVolga.

[Page]Above VVaſiligorod begins the Land of the Ceremish Tartars which extends it ſelf out as far as Caſan. Thoſe again are divided into two ſorts of People; The one ſort is called Nagorni, which are thoſe that inhabit the hilly Countrey, and the other Lugowy who dwell moſtly in the Valleys. The former follow altogether Paſturage, the latter Agriculture, for which they have a happy Land, bleſſed with a fertile Soil. The Inhabitants are a rude and barbarous People, utter ſtrangers to good Manners and Learning. They ſpeak for the moſt part the Ruſſian Language, but ſome places there are where they ſpeak Tartarian, and in other places they have a peculiar Tongue of their own. They are the moſt ſtupid Heathens that I have yet ſeen in all my 3 Voyages, have neither Sence nor light of a Divine Power. Houſes of Worſhip, and Prieſts, Reſurrection, Heaven and Hell are things they never heard of, nor nor will ever learn to know what they are. However I may not be ſo general but that I may except ſome, who have ſome light and knowledge of an immortal God, and ſuch an one as has the direction of all, but only rules them as a King upon Earth does his Subjects. They are further of Opinion that there are Devils or evil Spirits, whoſe power is limited and circumſcribed, and that they cannot do any miſchief ſave only in this Life, for theſe doubt much about the Reſurrection, and for this end they do Sacrifices to them as do the Madagaſcars that they ſhould do them no harm. They tell you of a ſtrange Water by the means whereof the Prince of the Devils comes in horrible and moſt ugly ſhapes, for which they dread, as Children do Bugbears they never ſaw. To that Immortal Deity and divine Eſſence they offer up all manner of Beaſts as Oxen, Horſes, and Sheep, which when they do, they take the Hide and ſtretch it out upon a Rack made on purpoſe, making thereby a Fire, over which they hang the Fleſh to boil, When it has ſeethed long enough, they take out a Bowl of the Pottage in the one hand, and a Bowl of Metheglin in the other, and throw them both upon the Hide, upon which it falls into the Fire, ſaying, Accept, O God, this Offering at my Hands, and be pleaſed to hear my Praiers; which Praiers do commonly import their own Health, or the increaſe of their Cattel. So that their main Opinion about that God, is only that he is a good-natur'd and benevolent-Lord, and the Devil malevolent, which is all that may be gathered from them. Others I have ſeen who worſhip the Sun, [Page] Fire, and Water. Ceremonies about the Dead I could never perceive any, ſave only that when any eminent Man among them comes to dy they make a Feaſt of Horſe-fleſh, at which all the neareſt Relations are preſent, and the Corps given to a ravenous Beaſt called Briggachol, which I have not elſewhere ſeen: That done they hang up his Veſtments upon a Tree in memory of him, as we do Eſcutcheons, and this was all I could learn of my ſelf, or from the Obſervations of others that had been longer and further within Land. Their Habit is as courſe as their Breeding, moſtly of Skins or a kind of Canvas. Their Upper-coat comes down only to the Thighs, and their Breeches and Stockings all one. Thoſe that are married ſhave their Heads, but whilſt ſingle they let their hair grow, but all in one Tuft, which they commonly ty up in a ball above their head, or plate it, as our Jockies do their Horſe-tails. The Women wear alſo courſe Garments having their faces muffled up to the eies: but more quaint is the Habit of a Young-woman ready to marry, who beſides other od accoutrements wears a piece of Wood, ſhaped like a horn directly upon her Fore-head, about an Ell in length, and at the ſmall end a litle Bell. Circumciſion they have not yet learn'd from the Turks or Iews, nor yet Baptiſm from the Chriſtians; but have ſome few Ceremonies about the naming of their Children, which is done when they are about half a year old. Polygamy is in uſe among them, and that without any order or regard to nearneſs in Blood, for it has been well known that the Father takes the Daughter and ſo procreates Iſſue, and the Son the Mother, after the manner of the Cingaleezes in Ceylon, where the Father about marrying his daughter out, bereaves her of her Virginity, ſaying, Should I plant a Tree and not enjoy the Firſt-fruits my ſelf?

CHAP. X. The Ship ſet faſt upon a Foord. The great Ʋtility of the Linden-tree. Some of the Company drowned. Fertility and excellent Soil of the Banks of the Wolga. Arrival at Caſan. Caſan taken in by the Ruſſes. The Caſan-Tartars fight the Ruſſes. The Ruſſian Army flee. Moſcou taken in. The Czar becomes Tributary to the Tartars. The good Conduct and valour of the Governour of Reſan, who reſtores the Czar and the Empire to it's former Freedom.

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ON the 30 dito we ſet out again,IUNE. 1669. and ſuddenly were run aground upon a Shallow place, where we were very hardly put to it to get off, and beſides our great Labour we loſt an Anchor and a Dragg. We were no ſooner got clear but we ran immediately upon another Bank, and ſo from one to another that we were almoſt out of hopes of ever coming through, for we ſaw danger on every ſide, and our Pilot very unskilfull of the River, which detarded our Voyage very much.

The next day we gain'd the Deeps, and came before Cuſmademianski where we caſt anchor and provided our ſelves with Victualling and Refreſhment. This City is founded upon a riſing ground having on the one ſide high and ſteep Mountains, and on the other ſide a level Countrey. The Land round about as well the montanous as the flat affoard many Woods and Groves of The ſame, as I take it, which Pliny and other Naturaliſts call Tilia or [...], the inner Rind whereof they made Parchment [...]r Paper of, as of the Shrub Papyrus. Of this more amply ſee Pliny lib. 16. cap. 14. Linden, on Teile-tree. The Bark of this tree is good for many uſes, and therefore pilled and ſold by the Inhabitants, the Body they hollow, and make Tubs, Troughs, Pales and other Veſſels thereof: which is the only Traffic and Work I know of in uſe amongſt them.

On the firſt of Iuly we ſailed by two Iſlands, to wit, Turig and Maſtof, and ran the ſhip aground, where we loſt another Anchor, Towards the Evening we came before Makrity.

On the 2d we ſet Sail, and came before Sabakſar, where ſome of our Ships-company went aſhoar, and took our Paſport and Credentials to ſhow the VVaywode, or Governour, who gave us a ſupply of Men and neceſſaries to help us forward to Aſtrachan. Sabakſar is one [Page] of the neateſt Towns I had hitherto ſeen ſince we left Moſcou, JULY. 1669. being well built, fortified and ſince the uproar of the Caſaks, the Garriſon better ſupplied with men than before. Having diſpatched here we weighed anchor, and on the 3 of ditto, gain'd the Iſland Coſin where we were faſt again, but without much difficulty got clear. We ſailed that day paſt Sundir, a handſome litle Town, and dropp'd anchor before Cokſchaga: looſing thence we were fain to caſt out our Fore-anchor to hale over a Foord, which was 10 Dutch leagues long, and found work enough to bring the Veſſel over, however after much pains taken we gaind the Deep, without any damage to the Ship.

On the 4 we came paſt the Shallow places, and before VVolofka were faſt again, where we were fain to caſt anchor and wind our ſelves off. At night we lay before Swiatkhi, which is a fortify'd Town, having many fair Churches and Monaſteries within walls.

On the 5 we weighed anchor and ſet Sail, having a brisk Gale, which in 3 hours time, or leſs brought us before the River Caſanka, from which River the City and Kingdom of Caſan have their name, here we came to anchor where ſome ſmall Shipping belonging to that place, aiming to enter the River, ran againſt our Bow and ſome fell overboard.

Here about is a very fair Countrey and as fertile as any that ever I have ſeen in all my Life. It is moſtly low arable and medow ground overflown once a year upon the ſwelling of the River VVolga. On the Banks of this ſaid River are variety of Fruit trees of many kinds, which grow in whole Groves together and wild, for a hundred Dutch Leagues, as Haſle-nuts, Cherries 3 or 4 ſeveral ſorts, Black; White and Red Currans, &c. That part of Caſan which lies moſt within Land formerly belonged to the Tartars, but the Inhabitants ſpeake the Ruſsian Language, which was firſt brought in when the Countrey was conquered by the Ruſſes, as ſhall be hereafter ſaid. They do not convert any man to ſlavery, nor make that their Traffic, as do the Nagay the Crim-Calmuc-and Dageſtan-Tartars, for if they had they might have ſold me when with other two of our Ships-company I was under their Hands, and that above 3 leagues within Land, where on the contrary we found them civil after their Manner, for they gave us Bread and Milk to eat.

[Page]On the 6th our Shallop was ſent up to Caſan, to acquaint the Deputy with our Arrival.

On the 8th the Deputy of Caſan, together with the Metropolitan came aboard, where they ſeemed to receive great ſatisfaction, having never ſeen the like before. The Common people came likewiſe flocking in great multitudes to ſee a floating Caſtle, and notwithſtanding all the aw of the Deputy and Provincial, we had much ado to keep them off, for they ſtrove to come aboard.

Caſan is a great City, and reaſonably ſtrong,Deſcription of Caſan. but it's Walls and Towers of Wood, as almoſt all the Ruſsian Towns are. The Cittadel is walled with ſtone, and well provided of Ammunition and Men. The Town is ſituated upon a Hill, but in a Champan Countrey. The Cittadel is encompaſſed with the Caſanka, which renders the Water within inexhauſtible in time of Siege. The Traffic of this Place is very conſiderable, regarding the Countrey it lies in. It is frequented by the Crim-Tartars, who bring thither all manner of Merchandiſe their Land affoards, and not only the vendible Products of the Earth and Cattle, but as orderly their own Children, which they ſell at a low rate, a Boy or a Girl of 16 years of age, for the value of 20 Crowns a piece. The City Caſan is equally inhabited by Ruſſians and Tartars and governed by a Deputy, as we have already ſaid, but the Cittadel kept ſolely by Ruſſes, where no Tartar is to come upon pain of Death. There is beſides the Deputy (who is only as Preſident and ſupreme in Civil Matters) an extraordinary VVaywode, who is always as Superintendant in time of War, having the ſole Direction of Martial Affairs.

The Countrey of Caſan, which has been formerly a Kingdom, is of a very wide extent; bounded on the North with Syberia, on the Eaſt with Nagaya, and on the South with the River VVolga. This Countrey was formerly very populous and able to bring a great Army to field, as in recorded of their famous Expeditions againſt the Ruſſes; but ſince depopulated, made waſt and ſubdued, by Baſilius Ivanowitz, who overcame theſe Caſan-Tartars in a very bloody Battail, and after that ſo notable a Conqueſt ſet a Vice-Roy. This Vice-Roy, although a Caſan-Tartar, was always more loyal to the Czar, than favourable to his own Countreymen; which occaſioned great murmurings and jealouſy, among the Caſaneers, that at laſt they called in the Crim-Tartars [Page] for their aſſiſtance, who were Mahometans. Theſe made not much delay, but on a ſudden raiſed a mighty Army, which incorporating with the Rebells gave the Vice-Roy battail, and gain'd the Field, and purſuing the ſucceſs of the day invaded the Emperours Territories. The Czaar in the mean while being informed by Expreſs that the Hoſtility kept the Field, had put the Forces under Conduct of the Vice-Roy to flight, and that they approached with a great Body, he levied as great an Army as he could do with ſo ſhort warning, and ingaged with the Tartars in open Field. But the Hoſtility increaſing more and more, what with their own Nation, and what with the Malecontents within the Ruſsian Juriſdiction, were almoſt 15 to 3, and after a ſhort but very hot Battel the Emperour was fain to flee and betake himſelf to Novogorod. The Tartars ſeeing themſelves Maſters of the Field, marched forward to Moſcou which they attacqued, took in and plundered. However the Cittadel Cremelena held ſtoutly forth all the time, without making Propoſals or Articles upon which they would ſeem willing to ſurrender it, till at laſt finding themſelves not in a capacity to hold forth they gave it over, upon very honourable Conditions as to themſelves, but diſadvantageous Terms for the great Duke himſelf, and the City of Moſcou. Shamefull was this Loſs to the Emperour, and no leſs ground of Honour for the Victory to the Hoſtility, who now as it were in a moment had regained all their Freedoms which from time to time before they had loſt. Right loath was the Czar to give his aſſent to the Concluſions of the Treaty, but was at laſt compelled to ſign it with his own hand, partly for that his Bojars and Council preſſed him to it, and partly upon his own conſiderations, how that his Countrey in all probability would in caſe he continued refractory be overrun, and he himſelf with all his Race be ſecluded from the Monarchy. The Tartarians had 2 Generals, Brethren and equall in command, whereof the elder called Mendligeritz, erected a Statue in Moſcou, to which he obliged and injoyned the Moſcovians to pay certain Homages. The younger called Sapgeri marched on for Caſan where he had his Reſidence, thinking, that becauſe it had formerly been a Soveraignty, and that the Footsſteps and Reliques of a waſted Kingdom were ſtill apparent, he might the better erect and rear a new Monarchy upon the Foundations of an old. Mendligeritz [Page] the elder marched with his Army towards Rheſan, well knowing that the great Power of that Province might check him, upon opportunity. So ſoon as he was ſet down before the Town, he ſignified the occaſion of his coming, ſent the Governour a Copy of the Articles ſigned by the Czar, demands the Town, and willed him to ſurrender. But the Governour (who was a Gentleman both of known Fame and Worth, in regard of his rare Conduct in ſeveral Battails at the Head of an Army) let him know, That all the Infidels and Barbarians in the world ſhould not deterr him ſo far as to tranſgreſs his Duty, and Oath, ſince he himſelf had no ſuch Intelligence from his Lord, the Great Duke, and till he had Aſſurance of what the Tartarian General had adviſed him about concerning ſuch Articles, he would defend the Town and Cittadel. The General upon this Anſwer ſent him the Original of the prementioned Articles, and ſo willed him to avoid Blood-ſhed: but the Governour detained the Meſſengers and kept the Schaedule, reſolving to ſtand out the Siege. Upon this the Tartars raiſed the Siege, and attempted to ſtorm the City; but thoſe within couragiouſly defended themſelves, and plai'd of their Canon; together with an inceſſant ſhooting of Arrows, at the Enemy, that they were forced to retreat and remove the Siege to another ſide of the Town, where ſome diſloyal Ruſsians had acquainted them that the place was weakeſt and conſequently the moſt eaſy to be ſtorm'd: however finding no hopes of gaining the Town, the Tartarian General ſent a Herauld to urge the Governour to reſign the Papers, declaring himſelf thereupon willing to draw off his Forces, which the Governour refuſing the General left the Town. Several Narratives were ſent off to Moſcou, which occaſioned a general Joy, and incouraged the Townſmen to revolt, and unanimouſly fall upon the Garriſon, who being incapable to make reſiſtance were fain to ſubmit and beg Quarter. The Statue of Mendligeritz was alſo pulled down and broke to pieces in deteſtation of his Tyranny. The Czaar immediately upon theſe news gathered all the Forces he could, which when drawn to field amounted to 25000 Men, and marched forward to Caſan, where he gave the Tartarians Battail; and after a hot fight gain'd the Camp, the Enemy retiring into the Weſtern Provinces of Tartary, ſhortly after the Czar died, without the performance of any honorable atchievment, ſave that during the time of his Reign. But [Page] Ivan Baſilowitz, MAR. 1669. ſon to the deceaſed Emperour, ſeeing the good footſteps of his Father, and perceiving a ſure foundation, Levies a new Army and recruits the Old with well experienc'd Germans; but having no truſty Perſon to whom he durſt commit the new Army as Commander in chief, he joyns the Forces, himſelf leading marches ſo in the Head to Caſan, which City when he had beſieged 8 weeks and loſt many men, fearing likewiſe that Mendligeritz might come to aſſiſt them he gave them Offers of Peace, which nevertheleſs the Tartars would not accept, expecting ſuccour from the Field-Army. Ivan Baſilowitz thought it high time either to take up the Siege or to ſtorm it on a ſudden; which laſt he reſolved upon and accordingly, ſet 70 German Pioneers at work, who did the work ſo effectually and without diſcovery of the Enemy within, that they had under-mined the Northeaſt Gate in the ſpace of 24 Hours or leſs, and thereupon blew it up which done the Moſcovians ſurprized them within and made themſelves Maſters both of the Town and Cittadel. The Townsmen obtained Quarter althoug the Great Duke had threatned the Contrary, for that they had twice rebelled againſt the Imperial Crown and of their own accord ſent ſuccour to the Enemy, when it was not in the leſt urged from them. The Czar being now Maſter of Caſan fortified it with a ſtrong Wall, Towers and Bulwarks. But now to our preſent Journal.

After the Deputy of Caſan had throughly viſited our Ship, and well entertained by our Officers aboard, he departed with the Metropolitan aſhoar, and entreated us all to come up to Caſan, which we did, and received a reciprocal kindneſs from him there. When we returned aboard the Mobile followed us with Muſic and Dancing a good part of the way.

On the 10th we received a good Quantity of Lead aboard, which we were to unload at Aſtrachan.

On the 13th I got permiſſion of the Officers to go up to Caſan to buy ſome Biſcake for my own uſe, which I had for a mean price, and having much more than I could uſe, I ſold it and got a conſiderable profit, as well of the Officers as the Foremaſt men, for we were to take care for our own Victualling.

CHAP. XI. Departure from Caſan. The ſtrange manner of taking Fish. Cities demolished by Tamerlan. The Ship run faſt aground. The Salt-Pans, and manner of making Salt. Difficult Sailing in the Wolga. A New City built for defence againſt Robbers and Pyrates. The great abundance of Liquirice about Aſtrachan, The Land of the Calmuc-Tartars.

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ON the 17 ditto leaving Caſan, we ſet Sail and that morning were aground 2 ſeveral times,Departure from Caſan. but without much difficulty got clear again.

On the 18 we came cloſe to an Iſland called Staritzo, where we anchored, our Pilot went aſhoar to view the ſaid Iſland and coming about 3 furlongs within land found ſtones, of the ſhape and bigneſs of Lemmons which being broken had within the ſimilitude of a ſtar, but thoſe not all alike in Colour, for ſome were like Gold, others like Silver, and others of a Yellow and Tawny colour. This Iſland is ſituated in 45 degr. 31 min. being of it ſelf about 3 Dutch Leagues in length and 2 broad.

On the 19 we got the Iſland Potenski where we came to anchor expecting that a great ſtorm would come on.

Upon the 22 we ſailed paſt the Buytma which is a branch of the famous River Lanca being about 12 Dutch Leagues from Caſan. This ſame River has it's Riſe or Fountain about Chambretoky which lies to the North-eaſt of Caſan.

Here we met with a company of Fiſhermen of whom we bought ſome Bream, which they take in great Abundance, and after an od way, which if time had permitted us we would have learned.

On the 23 we came to a very pleaſant Coaſt where we went to aſhoar, and found there the Ruins of a great City which had been made waſt by Tamarlan. While we lay here it began to blow very hard, and the next day we were fain to keep at anchor. In the mean time I went with ſome of our Ships Company to the Hill Arbuchin, where we found the Ruins of another City, bearing one name with the ſaid Hill. In aſcending the Hill we found a great ſtone with this Inſcription in old Ruſsian Words and Letters, IF THOU WILT REMOVE, THOU SHALT NOT [Page] LOSE THY PAINS. Some Ruſsians had a mind to ſee what would come of it,JULY. 1669. and after long digging and much ſtruggling at laſt got it turn'd over, but, inſtead of finding a Treaſure, met with another Motto, which was, THOU ASS GO SHAKE THY EARS. This vexed them ſo that they rather willed to let it ſtand in that poſture, than take the pains to ſet it as it was before, to deceive others.

The Land round about is very fair and withall of a fat Soil, yet not cultivated, for there are no Inhabitants, but the Relicts of ſeveral Towns and Villages, formerly depopulated by the famous Tamerlan.

On the 17 we ſailed paſt the River and City of Adrobe, lying in the heighth of 54 degr. and 48 min. At the mouth of this River we were again ſet faſt, and after much labour, and all the means we could imagine to be any way helpfull, we gave the Ship and Yacht both over for loſt, but in the Evening it began to Thunder, and abundance of Rain fell, that the River began to ſwell, and ſo ſet us adrift again.

On the 29 we came before Calmaka, where were many Salt-pits and two new Towns. We found there ſeveral Pans where the Ruſſes made their Salt, which they fetch out of great hollows and cavernal Rocks; this being boiled is ſent up the Wolga in Stroughs, and ſo diſperſed over the whole Countrey of Moſcovia. Theſe Salt-pits keep abundance of Men in imployment, and is no ſmall profit to the Overſeers.

On the 30th we ſet ſail again, and after half an hours ſailing ran aground upon a ſand, where after much ado we gott off, but with the Loſs of an Anchor and 80 fathom of our Cable.

The next day it began to ſtorm very hard, wherefore we thought good to come to anchor, for the River was here about very perillous, and ſo we were fain to continue till the 4 of Auguſt.

On the 5th of Auguſt we came to Morrakzy where we ſaw abundance of Fiſhers, of whom we bought ſome Cavear, and Sturgeon, having as much of that Fiſh as 20 Men could eat for the value of 11 ſtivers [or one ſhilling ſterl. A great Storm.] Here we were forced to tarry for the ſpace of 24 Hours by reaſon of the hard Wind, lying near the Iſland Kiſtowato, where is a very ſhoaring or ſlanting ſtrand on both ſides, which makes the ſtream of the Wolga at that place very narrow and deep. Here we ſaw the River Uſſa which encompaſſing Samara [Page] almoſt round, empties it ſelf into the Wolga. On each ſide this River is a fair and pleaſant Countrey ſo far as one can view:AUG. 1669. but we were informed by the Ruſſes that it was there very dangerous to travail by reaſon of Robbers, and the vagabond Coſaks, who kept themſelves in the Woods, whence they ſometimes ſalley out in whole bands, and ſurprize Paſſengers. The Coſaks alſo haunt the River, having Boats which are made long and ſmall, with which they row admirably ſwift. On one ſide of the Uſſa are ſome Mountains and amongſt thoſe one of an incredible heighth called Sariol Kurgan, where they ſay an Emperor of the Tartars with 70 Kings ly buried, when they came up the Wolga with intent to invade Ruſsia; which Mountain being bare and rocky, they ſay that the Soldiers carried up ſo much Earth and Mold as was ſufficient. Some of thoſe Mountains are woody and other ſome bare ſtone and cliffs.

On the 8th we ſailed forward and came to Samara, which is ſo called from a certain River that runs through it; where it runs into the VVolga. The City is built four Square, and moſtly of Wood; only the Churches and Cloyſters are built of ſtone.

The day following we ſaw the Mountain Coſak-krim, ſo called from the Coſaks which were there beat by the Moſcovian Army; having ſadly moleſted all the Countrey, under the ſubjection of the Czaar, by a continual Plundering: but having at that time received ſuch an overthrow could never ſince complete ſo great a Body, as might be any way obnoxious to the Ruſſians. Behind Samara the Mountains are very high, but Coſak-krim ſurpaſſes all the reſt for heighth. About the going down of the Sun we ſailed paſt the Iſland Pantzina and the next morning found our ſelves, as far as Sagenisko.

On the 11 we ſailed paſt the Iſland Zagra, where we met divers. Fiſhers-boats and ſupplied our ſelves with freſh Fiſh. Here we had news that a great number of Coſac-Rebells were entred the Iſland Satyry-Boggere, at the mouth of the VVolga, on the Caſpian Sea, and annoyed the River.

On the 12 we ſailed by ſeveral Iſlands, namely Saſnow, Oſsino, Schipnamago Koltof, and other not inhabited.

The next day we ſaw the Mountain Smiowa, which in their Language is as much as to ſay, a Snake, or Dragon, having it's name as I conjecture from its ſimilitude of a Snake, riſing up into hillocks [Page] and falling down again into gaps like a ſerpent when he creeps. Although the Ruſſes as alſo the Inhabitants tell us a Fable of a famous Cavalier who went out to kill a monſtrous Animal like a Snake, that waſted all the Countrey round about, and devoured every day 50 Men for a Break-faſt. The Knight having killed the ſerpent it was metamorphoſed into a Rock which is now this Mountain.

The day following we came before Saratof, where we caſt anchor, This City lies in 52 degr. 12 min. in a valley upon a Branch of the VVolga, on the larboard ſide in ſailing down, and is only inhabited by a Military Officer and a Garriſon of Soldiers to free the River and Countrey of the Coſacks and Calmuc-Tartars, whoſe Countrey is bounded here. Theſe Calmucks are the moſt ougly and miſhapen People in the World, worſe favoured by far than the Hotentots or Moors, which are Angels in Compariſon of thoſe. Their Faces are broad and almoſt four ſquare, their noſes flat, their mouths reaching almoſt from one ear, to the other, their Eies long and ſmall, upon their Heads they wear a Quoif; the reſt of their Habit is ſufficiently denoted in the following Plate. They ſeldom go afoot but moſtly on Horſeback, as if they were Centaurs, for ſome of them do not only eat and drink but alſo ſleep upon their Horſes. Their only weapons is the Long-bow which they uſe with an admirable Dexterity. There is a continual enmity between thoſe and the Nagayans, for they perpetually ſteal one anothers Children and Cattel, which they bring to Aſtrachan to Market, for there they have 3 ſeveral market days, one for the Ruſsians themſelves, another for the Nagayans, and another for the Calmuc-Tartars, which 2 laſt-named may not come together, altho they be both Mahometans, and under the Juriſdiction of the great Duke. The Calmuks dwell not in Towns as other People do; but travail all over the Countrey, pitching their Tents where they find a fertile fat Soil, which when their Horſes, Camels, Cows and ſmall Cattel have eaten bare, they break up and march forward to find out ſome other place, as Hiſtorie records of the Scythians, who without diſpute were the ſame People. Their chief and choice Diet is Horſe-fleſh, which they eat raw after they have rode a litle upon it, thruſting it between the Sadle and the Horſe.

Upon the 15 of Auguſt we ſailed paſt 2 Iſlands, to wit, Criuſna and Saponoufka, as alſo by the Hill Solottogory, which is as much as to ſay [Page] Gold-hill, ſo called from a rich booty of Gold the Tartarians had once taken in a Caravan, which they divided among themſelves by cap-fulls.

On the 16 ditto we came before the River Ruſlan on the left hand, right over againſt a round Hill called Vrak-ofskarul, from one Vrak, a Tartarian Prince who lies there buried. This Beck comes from the famous River VVhich is alſo called Tanais and divides Europe from Aſia, its courſe is from North to South, See Strabo lib. 2. Don, upon which River thoſe that are called the Don-Coſaks have their being, which alſo is the Countrey and Reſidence of Stenko Radzin. In the year 1668 the Ruſſes had build a new City at the Mouth of the River Ruſlan, to give a check to the Don-Coſacks, who much annoyed the VVolga with their ſmall Boats, comming down the ſaid River dayly in great Troops, and committed many inſolencies: However it ſeems not much available; for they have deviſed a new mean to ſhun the Fort and come into the VVolga by drawing their Boats over land upon Wheels, which they do for 7 Dutch Leagues together, for the Countrey there is flat and even.

The next day it began to blow very hard for which reaſon we were fain to remain that day at anchor, and on the 18th to ſet ſail having a gentle Gale which brought us before the City Czaritza, which is as much to ſay Caeſarea, or rather Empreſs, lying on the Right hand at the foot of a Hill. The City is in it ſelf not great, but very ſtrong munited with 6 Ramparts, or Bulwarks, beſides other Fortifications. The Garriſon is well maintained with Recruits of Strelitzers, being a Place of great Truſt and Importance, eſpecially for that it lies upon the Tartarian Continent.

On the 19 we came before the Place where Czareſ-gorod of old had ſtood, by the Ruins thereof we could obſerve that City had been built of Brick. It was demoliſhed beſides many others by Tamerlan the Great. The ſtones have been of good uſe to thoſe of Aſtrachan, wherewith they built their Walls. Towers, Churches and Monaſteries.

On the 20 we haled over ſeveral Riffs and ſhallow Foords, and at laſt ran our ſelves aground upon a ſand, where we ſtuck 3 hours before we could yet clear. From this place where we were faſt all along the Banks to Aſtrachan, grows great plenty of Liquirice, but all the Land to the Caſpian Sea waſt, and not fitt for Tillage.

On the 21 we got the Iſland VVeſaway, which we left on the Starboard-ſide, and that Evening came before Tzornogar, or Tzornojar, [Page] being in regard of any requiſite occaſion in ſuch a place conſiderably ſtrong:AUG. 1669. it is environed with Palizados, and about an [English] mile without the Town. On each ſide are ſeveral Watch-houſes, with Towers from whence they can ſee the Enemy at a diſtance, the Countrey being level and not Woody. The firſt occaſion of the building of this City was ſaid to be from a party of 400 Coſacks which had ſpoiled a Ruſsian Caravan, intercepting it between the Land and the Boats, where the Strelitzers were, that were appointed to Convoy it, and by reaſon that the ſtream was ſo ſtrong that the Boats could not row againſt it, the ſaid Robbers made their eſcape with a very rich Booty. At that ſame time there was at Tzornogar a Perſian Ambaſſadour arrived with all his Moveables and a great Retinue, intending for Moſcou. The ſaid Ambaſſadour came aboard our Ship and received Preſents from our Officers, which although he willingly accepted, yet remunerated them with things of greater value and worth.

On the 22 we ſet ſail and ſaw the Mountain Polowna where the Ruſsian Fablers ſay the Moon goes every night to bed, becauſe that over that Hill is always a great miſt. About 2 in the afternoon we got the Iſland Kitzier in ſight and ſpeeded our courſe ſo that we gain'd the ſight of Aſtrachan before the Sun ſet.

The 24 before noon by the grace of the Everlaſting GOD we arrived at the long-wiſh'd-for Aſtrachan, where we for Joy fired all our Guns to the Aſtoniſhment of the Inhabitants, who had never ſeen a Ship of that Burthen and Force before. From the day of our Arrival here, we lay off in the ſtream till the firſt of September and then came up cloſe to the Kay with our Ship and Yacht, thanking the Almighty for his ſpecial Bounty, in delivering us through ſo many perils, and bringing us at laſt to our deſired Port.

CHAP. XII. Situation of Aſtrachan. The Inhabitants. How Aſtrachan became ſubject to the Czaar. Strange manner of Tents, or Cottages. Proviſion very cheap and Brandy dear. A Deſart affoarding good Salt, and a ſtrange kind of Fruit. The Form and Nature of the Nagayan Tartars. Their Habit, manner of Life and Houſe-keeping. Their Trades and way of earning money, Horſeflesh, Mares-milk and Blood in great eſteem by them.

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A Strachan lies upon the Dividing of Europe from Aſia, AUG. 1669. upon the Iſland Delgoy, in the Countrey of the Nagayan Tartars, Situation of Aſtrachan. where the Northern Pole is elevated 46 degr. and 22 min. above the Horizon, and is about 50 Dutch Leagues from the Caſpian or Hyrcan Sea. It is environed with a thick ſtone wall, and that time I was there furniſhed with 500 great Braſs Cannon, beſides a very ſtrong Garriſon, with Ammunition proportionable to defend it againſt the Tartars and Coſaks, who have often had a deſign to retake it. It gives a very noble proſpect from abroad, with it's many Towers and Lofty Piles of Buildings, as well what appertain to the Fortifications as to the Churches and Religious Houſes. It is a famous Town for Traffic, frequented not only by all the Regions of Tartary adjoyning to the Caſpian Sea, but alſo by Perſians, Armenians and Indians, who bring their Goods and Merchandiſes in a certain ſort of Shipping which they call Boeſes, being about 80 Tun burthen a piece. But theſe Veſſels cannot Sail by traverſe, but alwaies before the Wind. Of all the ſeveral kinds of Merchandiſe which thoſe of Aſtrachan deal in, Silk is the chief, ſo that this ſeems to be the ſole Magazin of that Comodity, whence it is re-exported up the Wolga, and conſequently through the whole Ruſsian Empire.

Aſtrachan has been formerly the Royal Seat of the Nagayan Tartars but making a League with the Crim-and Caſan-Tartars was a means to detrude the King, and bring the People under the Subjection of the Grand Czaar of Moſcovia, for according to the Tenure of their Alliance, each was obliged to aſſiſt other, whether upon offenſiv or defenſiv Occaſions: ſo that Ivan Baſilowitz, declaring war againſt thoſe of Caſan, they were aſſiſted by the Nagayans, who were beat in open field, and after both Armies defeated, ſeveral Holds belonging to [Page] the Caſans were taken and demoliſhed. Aſtrachan at laſt it ſelf was beſieged and taken by ſtorm by the ſaid Great Duke, the Tartarians driven out, and peopled with Ruſsians and a ſtrong Garriſon of that Nation. Aſtrachan, when in poſſeſſion of the Tartars, was but a ſmall town in compariſon of what it now is, for the Father of the then Emperour when I was there had enlarged it by a 3d part, and called the Addition Strelitza gorod, that is the Soldier-Town, for it is moſtly inhabited by military perſons: and ſince that time it has been continually augmented with new buildings. The Cuſtoms and Duties beſides the Bartering of Commodities in this Citie is a conſiderable profit for the Czaar. Air and Soil of Aſtrachan. The Air about Aſtrachan is very indifferent and tollerable as to it's Temperature, neither rendred unwholſom by the ſcorching heat of the Summer Solſtice, nor in any caſe inſufferable for the penetrating Froſts in the Winter, as if this place had the benefit of two Climats. Hence is the Soil alſo very fertile and the Countrey fructiferous beyond (I had almoſt ſaid) any other Countrey in either of the temperate Zones, if the People and Inhabitants had but two Advantages in cultivating it, which tend mainly to the Improvement and maintenance of Agriculture, that is, an aſſured conſtant Peace, and the Myſteries of Husbandry which we have in the Weſtermoſt Countreys of Europe. They have many and various kinds of ſelect Fruits, as Water-Lemmons, Oranges, Apples, Pears, Cherrys, Damzons, &c. The Vineyards are in a ſhort time very much improved, for before the year 1613 that Plantation was not known among them, till certain Perſian Merchants beſtowed a Vine upon a German, but a Proſelyt and Monk of the Ruſsian Church, which he planted in a Garden belonging to the Monaſtery: the ſame Vine thriving ſo well, cauſed divers great Merchants to do the like whoſe indeavours had in the ſpace of 3 years that ſucceſs, that they preſented the Emperour with 200 Pipes of Wine, and 50 Pipes of Brandy, upon which the ſaid Emperour gave them all the Encouragement he could to propagate that laudable beginning.

The Nagayan-Tartars who for the moſt part inhabit the Champan land about and near Aſtrachan, are not permitted to dwell in the City; nor may they fortify their villages with Walls or Towers: only by many Intreaties they have obtained a Grant of fencing in their Tents with Stakes and Palizados, to ſecure themſelves from the Aſſaults [Page] [Page]

1 D' voorſtadt:

2 Stadts Mageſyn.

3 Het Slodt:

4 Tooren Staende Int slodt:

5 Bvee Niewe Cercke.

6 Een Cerck.

7 D' Poort Vande Hoáte voorſtadt:

8 D' Viſmardt.

9 D' Sout Bergen.

10 D' Revier De Wollega.

11 Het Tartariſe Leeger Onder. D' Beſchermingh van D' Stadt.

12 t' Schip d' Adelaer.

13 d' Calmicke Mard [...]:

14 d' Boogaert:

[Page] [Page] and Inſolencies of Night-Robbers and the Calmuc-Tartars, who ſometimes ſurprize them at anawares, and carry away both Men and Cattel. They have no faſt Towns, or Cities, but uſe Tents, as their Anceſtors have ever done. Their Tents are built round, the Diameter of the fund being about 10 foot: theſe are twiſted with Reeds or Barks of Trees, and to defend them from the Rain covered with Felt. The Chimney is turned round with a Weather-cock; in the midle of the Tent they make the Fire, which is commonly of Cows-dung and ſmall Twigs dried together in the Sun about which they ſit, and as they are ready for a Nap drop down one after another.

Aſtrachan being almoſt on every ſide ſurrounded with ſuch a fruitfull Countrey, has good plenty of all ſorts of Fruit brought every day to Market; and thoſe very cheap. Melons I have bought 10 or 12 for the value of a penny and other fruits after a conformable Price. Fiſh and Fleſh they have in better plenty than any where elſe I know in the World. For the value of 3d I bought a huge Sturgeon, a Carp weighing 30 pounds, and 25 Herrings, greater and fatter than ever I have ſeen in Holland. Pearch, Pike, Bream and Sandaks are there ſo plentifully taken, that only poore people eat them, of which a family of 8 Perſons may have as much as will ſuffice them, for the value of 3 farthings. The fiſh Sandach is a great Rarity, and proper only to the Wolga, and ſuch Rivers as run into it: being about the bigneſs of a Haddock, and ſomething like it in taſt, but much more delicate and faſter, if taken about November and the 3 following Moneths. Their Beef and Mutton is exceeding good, ſold uſually for a Farthing the pound. All kinds of Water-Fowl are very plentiful and cheap, eſpecially a ſort of Wild-gees and thoſe we call Moſcovy-Ducks which the Tartars take with Hawks, and bring them in ſuch plenty to Market, that they may be had for a peny the dozen. The Tartars who live chiefly by Fiſhing and Fowling uſe alſo Hunting, and in ſeveral woody Iſlands about Aſtrachan take many Wild-ſwine which are fed with Accorns, that being known for the beſt maſt that is, for Hogs. Theſe they alſo bring to Aſtrachan which by reaſon that that Fleſh will take Salt well, they buy and uſe it aboard the ſhipping, that trade to and again in the Caſpian Sea, the more becauſe of it's cheapneſs for none but the Moſcovians and Armenians buy it, the Perſians and Tartars themſelves being moſtly Mahometans, and therefore not [Page] permitted to eat it. To be brief, there is not that thing which may delight the Pallat, but may be had for a very mean and inconſiderable price, and at a far eaſier rate than the courſeſt Diet which neceſſitated people muſt be content with in the Weſt of Europe; and if any man of a mean Eſtate could deny himſelf that Society of his Relations and Acquaintance in which every one has more or leſs ſolace, and retire thither, he may live as contentedly there as the greateſt Lord, or richeſt Merchant in the World, who, as it were in taking Honey are frequently ſtung with the Bee, and in receiving Proſperity and Benefits from the right hand of Fortune, are as often buffeted with her left. However by way of exception I muſt mind you of one thing, that the Ruſsians are here at a great Loſs for Brandy, ſince the promulgation of a Late Edict, the tenure and purport whereof was, That no Brandy ſhould be diſtilled there for a certain term of Years: but upon what inſight it was that moved his Majeſty to order ſuch an Interdiction I know not; unleſs to prevent the Strelitzers, or Soldateſque, to forget themſelves ſo far as to let the Tartars, which ly on every ſide the City, to ſurprize them with a ſudden Invaſion: for Brandy is not only under a ſpecial Interdiction of being made there, but alſo the Importation prohibited to a certain Quantity, every year, which makes the Ruſsians the more to covet it, inſomuch that ſometimes they have drunk all the Kabacks and Brandy-cellars in Aſtrachan dry before 3 Moneths of 12 be about. At Niſen-Novogorod we bought a meaſure, holding about a Gallon for about 3 sh. 2d. Sterl. which here when at cheapeſt is ſold for 50 sh.

Salt how gotten.On the Weſt ſide of the VVolga is a great dry and waſt Heath called the Step, where they find abundance of good Salt, which is concreted in the Sun, and thrown up on Heaps like Ice. This Salt is digged out of the Hollows and Caves of Rocks, and proves a very rich Commodity, being exported aſwell up the VVolga into all parts of Moſcovia and Ruſsia, as Perſia, Armenia, Tartary and other Countreys bordering upon the Hyrcan Sea. Every man is licenſ'd to fetch it that liſts, only allowing. Two pence half-penny for 80 Pound, for duty to the Emperour.

A ſtrange kind of Fruit.In this Heath, or Wilderneſs, called the Step is a ſtrange kind of Fruit found, named Baronez, or Barnitſch, from the Word Boran, which is a Lamb in the Ruſsian Tongue becauſe of its form and ſimilitude, [Page] much reſembling a ſheep having Head, Feet and Tail, and what is more worthy of Note, a skin of white ſhining Hair and ſoft as Silk. This Skin is held in great eſteem by the Tartars and Ruſſes, and ſold for a good price, as I have paid my ſelf ſometimes 5 or 6 Roebels and doubled my money when I ſold it again. One of thoſe Skins is to be ſeen at the Houſe of Mr. John Swammerdam, in Amſterdam, a Gentleman famous for collection of the Rarities of Nature from every place of the World: but that of his he had from a Seaman that had been formerly a Slave in China, where coming into a Wood, found of this Fruit, and brought away as many Skins as made him a Coat. The Deſcription he gave of them, did very much agree with what the Inhabitants of Aſtrachan informed me of them. It grows upon a low Stalk about 2 foot and a half high, ſome higher, and is ſupported juſt at the Navel: the Head always hangs down as if it paſtured, or fed, of the Graſs, and when the Graſs decays it periſhes, but this I ever look'd upon as ridiculous, altho the Inhabitants aſſeverated to me by many Oaths, that they have often out of curioſity made experience of that, by cutting away the Graſs, upon which it inſtantly fades away. However what I might further add as to what they ſay of this Fruit, and what I my ſelf beleeve in the wonderfull Operations of a ſecret Sympathy in nature, I ſhall rather keep to my ſelf, than aver, or impoſe upon the Reader, what, I am ſenſible will be univerſally exploded for a Fable. Certain it is there is nothing which is more coveted by Wolves, than this, and the Inward parts of it are more congruous with the Anatomy of that Animal, than Mandrakes are with Men.

The Nagayan and Crim-Tartars are thick and corpulent, broadfac'd, and litle-eied. The Eies of the Men are wrinkled like old Wives. Their Beard grows very ſlovenly, here and there a hair, and ſhave their Heads bare on the Crown; yet theſe are not altogether ſo ougly as the Calmucs. Their Habit is altogether as gentile as their Perſons are comely, their upper veſtment either of a very courſe ſtuff with every thred as fine as a Tobacco-pipe, or elſe of Sheepskins with the Wool-ſide outward, their Caps and Hoſe of the ſame colour, where they wear any, for they uſe as litle Rigging as they can. The Women like the Calmuccers wear a courſe linnen Coat and round Caps, bulging out like a Helmet. Their Firſtborn Children are generally [Page] dedicated to ſome Saint, or other, in token whereof if it be a male, he wears a Ring in his right Ear, but if a Girl in her right Noſtril.

In the Summer ſeaſon they have no faſt place, but paſture over all the face of the Countrey as we have ſaid of the Calmucs. When they march they carry their Tents upon high Wagons made on purpoſe, and ſo take their Wives and Children with them, and drive their Cattel before them, their Moveables they ſet upon Camels, Horſes and ſometimes upon Kine. Thus they go up and down all the Summer; and when the Winter approaches pitch together about Aſtrachan, appearing like a great Army; where they can aſſiſt each other in time of need againſt the Calmucks their perpetual Enemies, who when the VVolga freezes ſometimes aſſail them: and to the end that they may the better oppoſe their ſaid Enemies in ſuch caſe, the VVaywode, or Governour of Aſtrachan provides them Arms, which at the breaking up of the Camp they are to redeliver, and for ſecurity ſend ſome of their chief Princes as a Pledge to Aſtrachan, where they are committed to the Cittadel; and upon their reſtoring of their Amunition are ſurrendred into their hands again.

The Nagayans follow the Fiſhing-trade, as alſo Fowling, Hunting and Paſturing of Cattel, and are reputed the beſt Herds-men in the world. Their Kine are generally great, their Sheep very fair and fat, having great Tails like the Rams in Palaeſtine, ſome weighing 20 or 30 pound a piece, their noſes bending upwards, and their Ears hanging like a Spanial. Their Horſes are but ugly ſhaped, but very durable in running. They have alſo ſome Camels but not many. Their chief Diet is dried Fiſh which they uſe in ſtead of Bread. They have alſo a way of making bread of Rice, which they knead in Oil and Honey, and ſo bake it in Cakes. All kinds of Fleſh they eat, except Swine, holding Horſe-fleſh for the beſt. Their Drink is Water and Milk, eſteeming Mares-milk above all other. They profeſs the Mahometan Religion, and are of the Perſian ſect. The Czaar allows them Laws and Judges of their own. They are alſo Tribute-free, but in ſtead of Tribute are to bring ſeveral Thouſand men to field upon occaſion.

CHAP. XIII. Diviſions and Limits of the Coſacks. The Offſpring of Stenko. The Reaſon of his Revolting. The firſt beginning of his Inſolency. His treacherous Cruelty: The Governour of Aſtrachan makes preparation againſt him. He betakes himſelf to flight and reconciles himſelf with the Czar. The Incredible Riches and coſtly Attire of the Coſacks. The Perſon of Stenko Radzin deſcribed. The meeting and diſcourſe of the Author with Stenko Radzin. He keeps a Perſian Princeſs for his Concubine, which he throws with his own hand into the Wolga. His Punishment for Adultery.

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ON the 3 of September came ſeveral Dutch Officers aboard,SEP [...]. 1669. who bad us welcom and invited us reſpectivly to their Houſes, where we went, and were kindly receiv'd and entertained. Juſt upon our Arrival here the Ruſsian Fleet was ſet out againſt the Coſaks. But before I treat any thing about that Expedition I ſhall give you a praevious Narrative of an Uproar raiſed and headed by Stenko Radzin, and then the reſt in order.

There are two Nations of the Coſacks, the Saporoksky, and the Donsky. Two ſorts of Coſacks. The former of theſe were ſometime ſubjects to the Polish Crown, and keep themſelvs about the Boriſthenes and Kiof, upon 50 Iſlands which are environed with that famous River. They call thoſe Iſlands in their own proper Tongue Porog, which is as much as to fay Stairs, and therefore are called Sa-porogsky. Their work is to watch the Irruption of the Tartars or other Enemies upon the Polish Territories. They are called Coſacks from the Slavonian word Coſa, which is as much as to ſay a Spirit, by reaſon of their admirable celerity of Motion, being always ready at hand upon occaſion. The Donski or Don-Coſaks are thoſe who live upon the famous River Tanats, by the Natives called Don, and are properly under the Juriſdiction of the Czar, although more out of their free and voluntary diſpoſition; for they have been indowed with many Priviledges, as to have their own Princes, Judges and Laws, as alſo a General of their Armie whom they themſelves Elect. As alſo this Immunity that when a Moſcovian Slave runs away from his Lord, and betakes himſelf within their Territories, they are not obliged to deliver him up unleſs themſelvs liſt. Of this People laſt mentioned was Stenko Radzin the famous Rebell [Page] born, who, as we have ſaid, ſo ſtoutly oppoſed the Emperour Alexius Michailowitz.

The firſt occaſion of this Revolt (as himſelf confeſſed) was to revenge his Brothers death, who was killed by an Eminent Perſonage, whoſe name was Iurie Alexowitz Dolgeroeky in the year 1665. The Brother of Radzin was at that time in the ſervice of the great Duke in the Polish Warrs, under the command of the before mentioned Bojar, Iurie Alexowitz Dolgeroeky, who commanded in chief: and when the Camp broke up to go into their Garriſons, the young Radzin deſired to be diſcharged with his Men, having done the Emperour very good ſervice in that laſt Expedition, and that then there was no more occaſion for their Aid: but the General refuſed to let them go, as not having any certain Intelligence that the Hoſtility were ſent to their Winter-quarters. The Coſaks were hereat greatly diſcontented, being Volunteers, and had deſerved yet greater Civilities than their Requeſt, or than ever they had received from the Ruſsians: they therefore marched off ſilently, led by their Collonel, brother to this ſaid Stenko Radzin, which was ſo badly reſented by the General, that he took the Collonel, and hanged him. This was the ſum and ground of his revolting, which prompted him not only to imploy his Weapons againſt the Ruſsians, but aſwell againſt the Perſians.

In the year 1667 he began to commit many Inſolencies and himſelf and all his crew betaking themſelves to the VVolga, where they took all the ſmall Shipping they met with, and plundered them, killed and threw over board all the Men, unleſs they would admitt themſelves into their Companie: They entred alſo all the Towns ſeated near the River, where they pillaged the Churches and Monaſteries. From hence he took his way directly for Iaik, which he took in and ſet a ſtrong Garriſon. From hence he marched toward the Caſpian Sea gathering vaſt multitudes of diſcontented Perſons, who came upon the noiſe of Rebellion from all parts. From the Caſpian Sea he went for the VVolga by the way committing many Inſolencies, plundering and ſinking all the ſmall Shipping, waſting and depopulating of Cities and Villages, and uſing the People very inhumanly if they would not reſolve to joyn in that Rebellion. From hence he went to the City Terku, and ſo onwards to the Bounds of Perſia, where he alſo ſadly moleſted the Subjects of that King, as well as thoſe of the [Page] Czar. AUG. 1669. The Inhabitants of a ſmall Perſian City hearing of his approaching deſerted the Town and betook themſelves to the Hills and Mountains without the Town, where they though themſelves ſecure from his violent and tyrannical Actions. Stenko Radzin perceiving that, ſent out Emmiſſaries to ſee where they kept themſelves, with Inſtructions, to tell them that his End was not to do any harm to their Perſons or Eſtates; but only to buy Proviſion for his Money, and therefore willed them to return into the City. The Perſons who were ſent did their meſſage, and the credulous Citizens came down entred their Houſes, and ſet open their ſhops, of whom Radzin and his followers bought ſeveral Commodities and Neceſſaries paying them to the utmoſt farthing: but had given a token to his Men by ſetting of his Cap after an unuſual Manner, upon which they were all on a ſudden to fall upon the Towns-men and maſſacre them, which after a moſt barbarous Manner they did, ſparing neither Man, Woman, nor Child.

The Waywode of Aſtrachan, whoſe name was Ivan Simonowitz Proſorofski, hearing how many places they had deſpoliated in the Countrey of the Medes and upon the Borders of Perſia, thought it high time to put himſelf in a Poſture of Defence, and ſuppreſs the growing Army of the Malecontents; he in order thereto cauſed all the Shipping as well Merchant-men as others to be put into an equippage, and diſpatches Simeum Ivanowits Geboof, who had then the third ſuffrage of Aſtrachan, to find out the Coſacks-Rebells, and give them battail. This Navy conſiſted of 36 Stroegs, and about 40000 Men. The Rebells had already 22 Stroegs with a proportionable number of Men, keeping themſelves about the Iſland Satyry Boggere, which lies about the Entrance of the Wolga into the Caſpian Sea, where they had ſet up a Watch-Houſe upon the Top of a high Hill, from whence they could view the whole Countrey round about, as alſo the Caſpian Sea and the VVolga. This Iſland lay very commodiouſly for their Ends being all along the Coaſt of a high ſolid Rock, and had only one way to enter it.

So ſoon as the Coſacks ſaw the Aſtrachan Fleet approach, they put off their Shipping, and betook themſelves to flight, ſo that that Expedition was in vain. Seeing now that the Coſaks kept themſelves together and would not come to open batttel, their were new [Page] Meaſures deliberated upon either by fair or foul means to ſuppreſs the Rebells.IUNE. 1669. It was not long before the VVaywod Proſorofski received Letters from the Czaar, with a Pardon for Stenko Radzin on condition he would ſubmit to the Emperour, and for the future demean himſelf as a loyal ſubject. The ſubtle Coſack not expecting ſo gracious a tender, accepted of the Emperours Grace, being already by Hunger and other extremities brought to ſuch a ſtate, that he would of his own accord have requeſted it, for they were then put to a ſhort allowance, and had taken a Perſian Boes having ſome Horſes aboard that were ſent to the Czaar, from the King of Perſia for a preſent; theſe they took, killed and uſed very ſparingly, whence it may be gathered in what a mean condition they were. Having thus obtained an aſſurance of Pardon from the Emperour, they marched forward for Aſtrachan, where they were very kindly received, and congratulated by thoſe of the Townsmen, every one of them appearing in the moſt ſplendid manner he could, for they had rifled many Gentlemens Houſes where they found always Apparrel, Jewels and other Plunder for habit and Ornament. Stenko Radzi the Ringleader of that Rout, could not be diſtinguiſhed from the reſt, but by the Honour which was done him, being ſaluted by the name of Batske, Father; and certainly he was a father of many impious Sons. I have ſeen him ſeveral times upon the Stroegs and in the City; he is a brave man as to his perſon, and well proportioned in his limbs, tall and ſtreight of Body, pock-pitted, but only ſo as did rather become than diſfigure him, of a good conduct, but withall ſevere and cruel, as has been already inſtanced. The Coſacks who were his Followers came dayly into Aſtrachan where they ſold their Booty which was very rich and coſtly. The Silk they ſold for a 3d of the currant value, which was bought up of the Perſian and Armenian Merchants. I bought a Gold-chain of one of them which was almoſt a fathom long, and in joynts like a Bracelet, between each piece were precious ſtones: the price I gave for it was not fully 7 pound ſterl. Shortly after their Arrival Captain Butler went to viſit him, taking 2 bottles of Brandy along with him, which he thought might be an acceptable preſent, ſince they had been ſo long at Sea, and preſented them to him and his Minion, whom the Ruſsians called Devils-whisker by a Nick-name. When we came to his Tent; and deſired admittance, he ſent to know [Page] [Page] [Page] who we were; Anſwer was returned him that we were Dutch, JULY. 1669. and imployed in the ſervice of the Czaar, upon a Ship in the Caſpian Sea. He forthwith gave order to a Gentleman to conduct us into his Tent where himſelf and ſome of his Council ſat, and cauſed us to ſit down, took our preſent in good part, and drank the Emperours health. Another time we went through the Camp where we ſaw him going aboard a Yacht to divertiſe himſelf upon the Water, with ſome of his Officers: he had with him a Perſian Princes which he had taken, together with her Brother. The Brother he preſented to the Waywod of Aſtrachan, but the Siſter he kept for his Concubine. Being now in the heighth of his Cups, and full of Frolicks, bragged of the many preſents he had given and received ſince his being reſtored to the Emperours favour, and on a ſudden brake out into thoſe Extravagant terms, ſpeaking to the Wolga: VVell, ſaid he, thou art a noble River, and out of thee have I had ſo much Gold, Silver and many things of Value. Thou art the ſole Father and Mother of Fortune and advancement: but, unthankfull man that I am? I have never offered thee any thing: well now, I am reſolved to manifeſt my gratitude. With thoſe words he took her into his Arms and threw her into the VVolga, with all her rich Habit and Ornaments; her attire was of rich Cloth of Gold, richly ſet out with Pearls, Diamonds and other precious Stones. The Lady was of an angelical Countenance and amiable, of a ſtately carriage of Body, and withall excellently well qualified as to her Parts, being of a ſingular wit, and always pleaſing in her demeanor towards him, when he was in the heat of fury, and yet at laſt became the inſtance of his Cruelty. However there is no man ſo addicted to any one Vice but there are ever more ſome ſparks of vertue. His own outrages as to the ſin of Adultery he would allow himſelf, but would not indulge or diſpence with it in others. It happened that a certain Soldier of the Coſacks had been taken in the action with anothers wife: this being made known to Stenko, he cauſed them both to be inſtantly apprehended, and the man to be thrown into the River with great ſtones made faſt to his neck and heels: but for the Adultereſs he provided another puniſhment which was to erect a Pale on the Water ſide, and tying her by the feet cauſed her to be ſo drag'd along the Earth, and from the Tent to the Pale which was almoſt 2 [English] miles, and there hoiſed up, where ſhe hung 48 Hours before ſhe died, and yet nevertheleſs the great torment of [Page] which ſhe muſt needs be ſenſible, all that time ſhe never was heard to ſhriek or cry out.

Beſides the many Robberies and great inſolencies they had committed, as well within Land as in Sea-Towns in Perſia, as at Niſabath, Scabaran, Mardore and Tackuſi ſituated near the famous Hill Barmach, from hence they went to Aſtrabath and Bachu which they ſurprized took in, and plundered, committing many barbarous actions in maſſacring of the Inhabitants and ſetting the Houſes on fire. Here they found a great Quantity of Wine, which they divided among themſelves, and carouſed ſo long, till they were all beſotted and drunk, being about 6000 Men in all. In the mean while the Perſians had drawn down ſeveral Companies, and all on a ſudden fell on this Rout, and made ſuch a ſlaughter that the twelfth part, or litle more were left alive and Stenko himſelf 5 times in danger of being taken. The Remainder betook themſelves to the Stroegs. This ſo much weakened them that they were not in a capacity to do any conſiderable damage by land, the more by reaſon the Perſians watched their Coaſt with very great vigilancy; as did alſo the Coſacks and Dageſtan Tartars, ſo that they were conſtrained for ſome time together to keep off at Sea, and keep cloſe to Pyracy, where every one was well warned of them and conſequently ſo cautious that they got but very litle Booty. But finding that they could not long ſubſiſt they were forced to land at Satyry Boggere an Iſland (of which before) where they waited for what Providence would allott them.

CHAP. XIV.JUNE. 1669. Stenko returns back and is followed by many Ruſſes, but oppoſed by an Order from Pſoforoski, which Stenko diſobeys. He returns again with a greater Power. The Waywode of Aſtrachan ſends out a Fleet againſt him, which shamefully yields. The Officers murthered. A great Perplexity at Aſtrachan, Power and Aw of Stenko. His cruelty and Pride. His Legates are devoured of Dogs in Perſia. Kumuskinka ſurrendred by Treachery.

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STenko Radzin whoſe implacable fury againſt ſome that had interpoſed themſelves to incite the Emperour againſt him, and to deprive him of his favour, would not ſuffer him to remain ſtill; but their bodies being now ſomewhat aſſwaged which before were ſwollen with drinking of ſalt Water, and their Vitals again revived with freſh Diet, which were almoſt ſpent with long faſting during the time of their extravagancies, they reſolved to go for Don, and to viſit their reſpective homes. Radzin gives them a ſhort warning to prepare for a March, and in order thereto gets all things in a readines himſelf.

Some diſcontented Ruſsians ſeeing the Coſacks ready to depart, they came and deſired to liſt themſelves under his Conduct, to which he readily aſſented, and by fair Promiſes drew abundance after him.

It happened ſometime before he deſigned to leave the Town that meeting with about 20 or more Ruſsians whom he could ſee by their countenance to be inclinable to follow him; theſe he fell in diſcourſe with, and liberally diſtributed a Bag of Gold among them, promiſing them that if they would follow him they ſhould fare no worſe than he. This was encouragement enough for them who did not only liſt themſelves, but perſwaded alſo many of their Friends to take the like Courſe, and joyn their Fortunes, amongſt whom were divers that were in the Emperours Service.

The Governour of Aſtrachan coming to underſtand that ſeveral Perſons in the ſervice of the great Duke, his Maſter, had withdrawn and liſted themſelves among the Rebells, he ſent one Wederos a Captain of the Strelitzers to Radzin, with Inſtructions to demaund the Ruſsians, and to will him to ſend them back upon pain of the Emperours Disfavour, which ſhould not be ſo eaſily accommodated as before, when perhaps he ſhould be compel'd to make ſatisfaction for [Page] the former Crimes with the new.AUG. 1669. The Captain goes to fulfull his Order, and declares to Radzin the Reaſon of his comming, and his Meſſage, who would not ſo much as allow him Audience; but when the Captain began to inſiſt hard upon the remitting of the Men, Radzin was ſo inraged that he drew his ſword and threatned Death, if he perſiſted any longer, and with that made towards him, but the Captain being a diſcreet Gentleman demeaned himſelf very fairly, when he ſaw him in ſuch a Rage, ſo that he eſcaped that Danger, and all the vent of Radzin's fury melted away in theſe words, How dare you, ſaid he. make ſuch an impudent Demand? shall I then betray my Friends who have out of a pure inclination to me ward deſerted their neareſt Allies and Fortunes? and shall I be threatned with loſs of Favour to boot? Prethee, go tell thy Maſter, that I equally value him and the Emperour, and let him know that I shall be with him ere he be aware, and reward him for this Protervity. The Captain was fain to ſmother his thoughts, and contented himſelf with this Anſwer which he related to the Governour. The Governour hereupon aſſembles a Council, and conſulted what to do; learning from the anſwer of Radzin that he intended to come down again, and ſo it happened, for within 3 days he began to march toward the VVolga, where he had 80 Stroegs and other Shipping provided, filled with Ammunition and Men, but did not at firſt any hoſtile feat. The VVaywod of Aſtrachan called a Counſel the ſecond time, where it was concluded that ſo long as Radzin did not do any attempt or violence upon any Town belonging to the Emperour, he ſhould not oppoſe him till the whole Navy were come together.

About fourteen days after the whole Fleedarrived, conſiſting in a great Number of Stroegs with about 6000 Strelitzers, or Soldiers beſides Powder, ſhot and Proviſion. No ſooner was the Fleet arrived but Radzin by his Emmiſſaries had Intelligence of their whole aim imploying ſuch perſons therein as he thought leſt ſuſpected. He therefore intimates his mind to ſome of thoſe in whom he could repoſe beſt confidence, to run away and oyn them to the Governours Forces under name and colour of Deſerters. Theſe ſpeeded them away to the Aſtrachan Fleet and feigned themſelves diſcontented with the abuſes which they pretended to have fuffered by Radzin, and were accepted in frienldy manner by the adverſe Party, who the rather did it for that they had hopes of a diſcovery and detection of Radzins [Page] Councils. But ſo ſoon as they were under Sail and almoſt cloſe with the Enemy, the Villains on a ſudden and unanimouſly fell upon the Officers,The Officers of the Aſtrachan Fleet murthered. The great perplexity at Aſtrachan. and diſpatched them ſurrendring the reſt with the whole Fleet into the Hands of the Coſacks, Radzin having got ſo rich a prey without any difficulty or diſpute, inſtantly ordered his men two Moneths Pay in hand, with promiſe of free enjoyment of what they ſhould take by Plunder, beſides other Means of Encouragement.

The Governour was not a litle diſmay'd at theſe tidings, the more when he underſtood how the Commonalty murmured againſt him, and that Radzin was in general laudably ſpoke of, and that not only in Aſtrachan but aſwell in all the Towns round about that were under the ſubjection of the Emperour. The Strelitzers who had not in a long time received Pay, and hearing how Radzin had given his men 2 Moneths pay in hand found now occaſion to grow mutinous, and that ſo unanimouſly that the Government and Officers durſt not oppoſe them by any rigorous courſe or violent mean, but did all they could to perſwade them by fair words and promiſes.

Radzin finding himſelf grow ſtronger and ſtronger,Radzins Power and Aw. and that with the Ruſses now under his command, he had about 16000 Men, he unſhip'd a part of the Men, and ſent ſome to Czaritza, and others to Txarnojar but he himſelf remaind upon the Fleet, where he was as much reſpected as a King, and had a ſoveraigne aw over the People.His kruelty when drunk. When he was drunk few of the Officers durſt appear in preſence, for it was very cuſtomary with him, for a ſmall offence to behead a Man, although the greateſt Minion or Favourite he had: The meaner ſort were in no danger, for thoſe were wont to flatter him, and upon a Wink would diſpatch their Officers, when he had taken any diſlike againſt them, and therefore willing to have them removed, and others in their place. Thus by giving ear to the Commons more than to the Officers he became more dreadfull and formidable for the ſole command and direction of the whole Army lay in himſelf. This beſides that gave the Rable ſuch encouragement that in the ſpace of 5 days after he had got the Aſtrachan Fleet, his Army was raiſed from 16000 to 27000 Men, being a mixt multitude of Peſants, Slaves Tartars and Coſacks, and men of reſtleſs minds from all Parts, being tickled with the thoughts of free enjoyment of Plunder. Theſe running to and again over the face of the Countrey, committed [Page] many inhuman acts,SEPT. 1669. and murthered the Gentry, who were fain to belake themſelves to Aſtrachan disguiſed in Slaves Apparrel. The Peſantry who indeed are very tyrannically dealt with throughout all the Emperours Dominions, here found an occaſion to be revenged of their Liege-Lords, and to ſhow their Man-hood brought the Heads of their Lords and threw them at the feet of a Provoſt or Executioner there to ordained, who gave them a reward for their Pains.

Radzin being arrived to this Pitch of Greatneſs was ſo puffed up as is he had conquered all the Empire; tis true he refuſed the Title of Emperour, ſaying, that hes purpuſe was not to rule as Lord and Soveraign but to live with them as a Brother to revenge that Tyranny and Oppreſſions which they had for ſo many gears, and their Progenitors for ſo many ages paſt ſuffered againſt all Reaſon and the Law of Nature. But on the other ſide, he mainly oppoſed the King of Perſia, and aſſumed the confidence to Diſpalck Ambaſſadours to that Court to whom he delivered Inſtructions, full of lofty-proud ſwelling Titles, and in his Compellation ſtyled the Sophy, Brothen. The Main and Sum of his Memorials and Inſtructions was. To urge the Sophy to enter into an Alliance with him, and to ſupply him with Ammunition of war for his Monye and what elſe he might have occaſion for. The ſaid Legates were ordered at firſt to inſiſt upon this by ſoft means, but in caſe of refuſal te menace the Sophy, and to let him underſtand that he, (the ſaid Radzin) had 200000 Men ready to invade his Territories, and that he would lake occaſion to viſit him when he leaſt dreamed on it, &c. So Soon as the King had underſtood their Inſtructions were to threaten him in caſe he refuſed to comply with Readzins Propoſals, he ſent for them and having an Executioner at hand made him forthwith chopp off their hiads with a Scimmatar,The Legates of Radzin beheaded am their Bodies thrown to the Dogs. and commanded that their Rodies ſhould be throw to the Dogs which were kept in the Kennel on purpoſe, reſerving only one to acquaint their Maſter how kind a Receptian they had m [...]t with at the Perſian Court, and gave him a ſhort but ſharp Memorial for Radzin, threatning to come ere long and chaw thoſe Boars which had ſo depopulated the utmoſt Borders of his Dominions, at what time he would not throw him living but deat to the hungry Maſtirs. This Coſack Envoye glad to come of ſo well with Soul [Page] and Body inſeperate came only to deliver Radzin the Reſult of his unſuccesfull Ambaſſage;APRIL. 1670. upon which the Rebel was ſo nettled that he commanded an Executioner to hew him into morſels for Ravens meat.

Radzins Paſſion being over he did all he could to increaſe his Fleet and Army, for which end he diſpatched ſeveral Emmiſſaries to allure the Ruſsian Soldateſque to deſert their ſervice, in divers Towns upon the VVolga, judging thoſe the fitteſt for his Turn, for that they were the beſt acquainted with the Intrigues of the Ruſsian Militia, and conſequently the more ſerviceable upon occaſion of attacquing any Town or Fort he deſign'd upon. Thus having accompliſhed his Ends with very good ſucceſs, he Muſters up his Forces, and ſends ſome of the Strelitzers to Kamuſchinka, who were to go under the Notion of Imperial command (for as yet they had no further Intelligence from Moſcou, ſince the Rebels left Aſtrachan) theſe then pretending to come from the Czaar, to adviſe the Governour how he ſhould behave himſelf, in caſe they attacqu'd the Town, were careſſed by the Military Officers, and conſequently ſo much confided in, that they found an opportunity to diſpatch the Governour and almoſt all the Officers of the Garriſon, having before hand created the Remaining party Members of Rebellion, and immediately fired a Gun, which was a Token to Radzin that he ſhould Approach and ſurprize the Town, which he did with expetible ſucceſs, and planted a Garriſon of Coſacks, removing the Ruſsian Strelitzers into the Navy.

CHAP. XV. The Animoſities and Tumults in Aſtrachan. Stariza taken in by the Coſacks. A Fleet ſent out againſt them. The Coſacks win Tzarnojar. The Ruſſian Fleet yields to the Coſaks. The great Inſolency and boldneſs of the Mobile of Aſtrachan. The valour of the Waywod or Governour. Adviſed to abſcond or abſent himſelf, which is put in practice.

THeſe Tidings coming to Aſtrachan, was the occaſion of no ſmall murmurings and Jealouſies among the Townsmen, none knowing [Page] who was friend and who was Enemy, or in whom they might rely on, or repoſe any truſt; inſomuch that many diſcontented perſons began to make Factions and breath Rebellion, though not ſo openly as that the Government could take advantage to ſuppreſs it. The VVaywod Proſorofski conſidering that the Commonalty were very much incenſed, and that ſome mutinous Enterprize was a hatching, he aſſembles the Lords and Council of Aſtrachan, to conſult with their Judgments what was beſt to be done in thoſe imminent Dangers and Juncture of Affairs, and what courſe they ſhould take to ſedate thoſe Animoſities and Heats, which ill-affected perſons indeavoured to raiſe and foment among the Towns-men and Plebeïans; as alſo what manner of Defence to uſe againſt the approaching Enemy. As to the former they concluded, that there was no better way to remedy it, than to conduct themſelves warily in the latter, and firſt obſtruct the growing Power of the Rebells, which Perils being removed it might not then be doubted but that the Commons would be the better and ſooner pacified. Upon this Reſolution ſeveral worthy Gentlemen preſented their Service to go as private Soldiers upon that ſudden and urging Expedition, not daring any more to put the leſt Confidence in the Strelitzers.

On the 10 of April 1670 the Bojar Petrofski diſpatched 800 Horſe under the Conduct of Col. Levonti Bogdanof, whereof 400 were Ruſsians, the reſt Nagayans, to furniſh the City Stariza, (lying about 80 German miles from Aſtrachan) with Ammunition and neceſſary Proviſion, and to ſtrengthen that Place with thoſe Men, which lies upon the River Don or Tanais, where the Coſacks have their Reſidence. This River was of old ſuppoſed to run into the VVolga, as ſome Geographers have been pleaſed to write, but later experience has fairly contradicted that opinion, for their Boats which are no more than trunks of trees hollowed, they are fain to drag and trail a days Journey over Land before they find the VVolga, at the neareſt diſtance thoſe Rivers ly to each other, where when they are come they ty heavy Balks on each ſide to keep them above Water, and to give them a due ballance and poize in their floating.

Stariza taken in by the Coſacks.On the 28 came an Expreſs to Aſtrachan from Col. Bogdanof, with news that the Coſacks had already taken in Stariza, and had killed 1200 Moſcovian Strelitzers, who were but newly come thither before the [Page] Siege, this Relation was given the Collonel by a Captive Coſack. The VVaywod alſo got intelligence how that the Field-Tartars were in great diſcord among themſelves, and that their Factions were ſo far advanced, that they were become open Hoſtility, and their Power waſted by inteſtine ſtrife; upon which Collonel Bogdanof was marched on to Czornojar, which is an Imperial Town, about 50 German miles from Aſtrachan. The ſaid Captive Coſack was ſo tortured on the Rack, that the moſt hard-hearted Ruſsians then preſent had compaſſion of him, yet nothing could be forced from him but what he made voluntary confeſſion of, before he came to the Rack.

By this time the Emperour had got full intelligence of the Tumult of the Coſacks, and of Radzins purpoſe, together with his barbarous maſſacres already committed upon his Subjects, and that he continually depopulated his Countrey, he gave order to levy new Forces, in place of the Old, which were to be ſent upon this Expedition, as alſo as many Stroegs as could on a ſudden be put in Equippage, for which end the Deputies of the Towns upon the Wolga did their utmoſt to complete a Fleet of 40 Sail. Upon each Stroeg was only one great Gun, but other Ammunition as much as was neceſſary for ſo many men as the Stroegh was capable or fit to carry. Aboard the ſaid Fleet were 2600 Ruſsian Strelitzers, and 500 voluntiers of Aſtratay under the Conduct of Simeum Ivanowitz Elbof a Kneez, who was for the time being made Commander in chief. Theſe men were of the Regiment of Ivan Ruſinski a Polander, but baptized a Ruſsian Proſelyte, whoſe Lieutenant was one James VVonderham, a Scottish Gentleman. The other Commanders were Capt. Paul Rudolph a German. Capt. Robert Heut an Englishman, and Nicholas Schaack who was our Lieutenant, being made a Captain by the Ruſsians. Beſides two other German Lieutenants and two Enſigns of that Nation, who were alſo Ruſsian Proſelytes. The reſt were Moſcovians and Polonians.

On the 25 of May being Whitſunday, the Fleet left Aſtrachan, and the Coſack who was tortured almoſt to death hang'd up in their ſight. In the mean while the Citizens and Commons began to buzz and murmure againſt the Deputy and the Officers, and grew ſo bold that they reviled him when he rode through the Town, he not daring to ſuppreſs them for fear of a greater irruption of that rebellious Fire, which lay ſtill unſmothered, till he underſtood the ſucceſs of Simeum [Page]Ivanowitz, MAY. 1670. whoſe happy arrival the Deputy and all peaceably minded perſons earneſtly longed for: the City being now in a very weak condition and low, ſince the Levying of thoſe that were ſent out with Simeum Ivanowitz, and conſequently the Mobile the bolder. But on the 4 of Iune, by a Gentleman who had made his Eſcape, they had notice of the Affairs of Tzornojar, that on the ſame day that the Knees Elboof made his appearance the Town was taken in, and that the Governour and Officers were all maſſacred and their Bodies thrown into the River: and further, what was more deplorable, the Privat Soldateſque of Knees Elboof had murthered all their Officers in the Fleet, declared themſelves for the Coſacks, and ſurrendred all the Shipping into the Hands of Stenko Radzin the grand Belweather, or Ringleader of the Rebells; altho immediately before their coming at Tzornojar they had unanimouſly ſworn, to live and dy with their Leaders. The Report of theſe things, altho the Governour indeavored to ſmother as much as was poſſible, gave the Rabble greater Occaſion to mutiny than they had before; yea, ſo far they were induced, that they publicly reproached the Superiority that they durſt not look out of their doors, or windows, much leſs walk the ſtreets to conſult together of means to remedy the diſtemper of affairs, to defend themſelves againſt the Hoſtility abroad, and to ſuppreſs inteſtin Jarrs at home, for it was no rare thing now to ſee the Rabble aſſemble togethers in heaps, and before the Doors of the Magiſtrates to cry out with infamous and bitter Railings, Now, now, the times begin to alter, it will be our turn next to Lord it, you villains come out and show your ſelves to the VVorld, &c.

The Governour in the mean while loſt no courage on his part, and the Gentry and Officers ſtill continued under hopes of Aſſiſtance from the Field Army, and new ſuccour and Recruits from Moſcou. The Deputy therefore cauſed all the Ordnance to be viſited and laden by the German Gunners, and gave orders to furniſh themſelves with neceſſary Ammunition. However we could very well remark, that were the Officers never ſo ſedulous, they were never able both to defend themſelves from ſuch a Power without, and be ſecure for Mutiny within, of which many Reaſons were given to the VVaywode, and he as often forewarned by divers prudent Perſons. The VVaywod Proſorofski would willingly have had us in the Town-ſervice, but being [Page] we were taken on for the Ships uſe,JUNE. 1670. we judged it beſt to ſtay where we were, the more for that we knew the Coſacks were more ſevere againſt Forreign Auxiliaries, than the Moſcovians if once made Captives.

In the mean while we heard continual News of the approaching of the Coſacks, to attacque Aſtrachan, which had it's inward ſtate been in all things conformable to the Muniments of that Town, they needed not fear 100000 undiſciplin'd men as are the Coſacks, for to ſay nothing of the Ramparts and Fortifications of the Walls, there lay about four hundred and ſixty great braſs Guns in the Battlements, beſides, thoſe of the Cittadel. Every day we expected new troubles, and commotions, inſomuch that we thought it not fit to ſtay there any longer, leſt we ſhould be maſſacred in the Uproar, but no one of us durſt ſpeak their minds, or be the firſt mover of ſuch means to ſave our lives, for that it might ſeem to ſtink too much of Rebellion, nor could we know how it might be reſented. However it came ſo far that Captain Butler began alſo to dread ſome ill might befall us if we did not conſult our Safety betimes; he therefore upon a time called us all together, and uttered his mind in theſe, or the like words. Gentlemen, I doubt not but that you a [...]e all ſenſible of the preſent danger which hangs over our Heads, and that there is not much hope left to hazard our Perſons any longer here, the Sum of what I have to ſay is briefly to adviſe and requeſt of you all to pack up what you have into the Shallop, and that we forthwith betake our ſelves to the Perſian Coaſt, and take what GOD in in his bountifull Providence is pleaſed to allott us. He ordered us further to get all in a readineſs to be aboard before the Gates were ſhut, for that he was not reſolved to wait one quarter of an hour for any Perſon: in the mean while we made a quick diſpatch, and in a moment had got our beſt Goods aboard, and all what we thought worth our while to bring along. Our Captain adviſed us not to take 2 of our Company with us, Brak and Trappen, becauſe they had wives and children, and conſequently would both be a cumber for us, and uneaſineſs for themſelves on ſo dangerous a Voyage: but I having compaſſion with my neighbour Brak, I made him come aboard with his Wife and Child; but Trappen was not willing to leave Aſtrachan, unleſs he had been better furniſhed with Money than he was, or ſomething elſe in lieu thereof. We were 15 Men, beſides a Woman and a Child in the [Page] Shallop where we ſtill waited for the Captain and two other Perſons whoſe Goods we had with us in the Boat. After a long expectation we ſaw no Captain come, it growing late in the Evening, and our Men impatient of delay would needs thruſt off from the Wall, but Lambert Helt the Maſter reſtrained us all he could, ſaying, That it was what we could not anſwer, &c. Thus we ſtaid waiting till the Gates were to, ſtill expecting their coming, but midnight already come and no tidings of them we began to be in a hundred Fears: ſome were of Opinion that the Captain was gone in a Knote or ſome other ſmall Veſſel with the other two Gentlemen that were with him, or that he was taken and ſecured: others were jealous that the Wife of Trappe [...] had betray'd us. Thus in great fear we lay all the time, not knowing what courſe to take, well knowing that if the Ruſſes had underſtood our Purpoſe, it would have coſt us our lives, nor had we dared to ſtay ſo long had not our Shallop lay on the other ſide of the Ship from the Town-ward, and therefore out of ſight: Nor could we be eaſily induced to beleeve that they would miſtruſt our venturing our lives in the Sea with ſuch a Boat. Thus we reſolved by the grace of GOD to thwart the Caſpian Meer and ſo for the Perſian Coaſt, and rather truſt to the divine Providence of Heaven, than confide in the uncertain Mercies of unreaſonable Men.

CHAP. XVI. They fall down the Wolga, and miſs their Courſe. Then touch at Oetzjoege. The ſtrange manner of fishing of the Bieloege. The great plenty of Cavear. They meet with great difficulty to gain the Caſpian Sea; which at laſt they get. A deſcription of the Iſland Satyry Boggere, Tall Reeds grow all along the Coaſt. A dreadfull Tempeſt. The Golden Bay. Their meeting with a Tartarian Bark. A deſcription of Terki. The Beginning of the Circas-Tartars; Their Perſons and Complexions deſcribed. Their Habit and Way of Living. Of their Women, their Habit, Humours and Inclinations. Their Idolatry.

ON the 22 of Iune about midnight we put off and rowed down the River and ran into a Creek, which we ſtill took for the Wolga, till afterward we found the contrary. We ſaw here and there ſome Cottages of the Nagayan-Tartars, but had not the Courage to go and [Page] [Page]

Steur vangſt inde Rivier de WOSGA

A. Waght [...]rayſen aen weder ſydts des Wolga.

B. Het Pael-were [...].

C. De Caſpiſche Zee.

[Page] [Page] viſit them leſt we ſhould be taken and ſold for Slaves. The Countrey here about is very pleaſant, moſtly meadow ground, and plentifull of Camels, Dromedaries, Horſes, Sheep and Goats, which wander to the belly in graſs: There are alſo ſome ſmall Woods in which we ſaw many wild Swine with their Pigs playing together and maſting. Here we were in a great ſtrait not knowing what to do, for we ſtrayed from one Lake to another, and almoſt ready to eat one another up for vexation. In the mean while the Clouds began to riſe, very thick at South-eaſt which we thought did preſage ſtorm, as at laſt it broke out into a Thunder, wherefore we were forced to put in at a reedy Iſland, ſo long as the Weather continued ſo boyſtrous. When the ſtorm was over and the Sky began to clear up, we betook our ſelves to the Water and directed our courſe to the Southward, where beating along the Coaſt we diſcovered a ſmall Cnoots, or Tartarian Boat which came directly againſt us and asked whither we intended; we told them, For the Caſpian Sea. They then again replied that we were far out of our way, and if we went but a litle further that we would be in danger of being taken by the Crim-Tartars and made Slaves. Hereupon ſome of our Company pray'd them that they would pilot us down to the mouth of the River, which they promiſed to do, and agreed with us for a Ducat. We took one of thoſe Tartars aboard the Shallop, and kept company a while with the reſt. After a few hours ſailing we got Oetsjoege, which is the chief place where the Fiſh Biloege is taken, whereof Cavear is made, being far greater than a Sturgeon, but of the ſame kind. The Wolga is here all laid in with Stakes, after the manner you ſee in the Plate, theſe Stakes are ſet in rows, wide at the Entrance ſo that they can drive in the Fiſh, which when once in they chace to the other end, where it runs up to a narrow angle, ſo that ſhe can neither get forward, nor yet turn about, but is eaſily taken. When they have caught her they take out the Rows, which weighs ordinarily 300 or 400 lb. but the reſt of the Fiſh they commonly throw away, although ſometimes they pickle it, and ſend it to Moſcovy where it is held in reaſonable good eſteem. The length of one of thoſe Biloeges is from 26 to 30 foot if come to its full growth. Cavear is uſed all over Ruſsia and Moſcovia inſtead of Butter during their Lent, which as I have before remarked, comes 4 times a year, and is likewiſe ſent into all parts of Europe, ſo that this Fiſhing is hard followed by [Page] the Ruſſes and Tartars who finding ſuch a good vent of their commodity make a conſiderable advantage of it: And ſo many are the Stake [...] works here that a company of 15 or 20 Boats will take ſometimes 2 3 or 4 hundred Fiſh on a day, for no ſooner have they done at o [...] place but they find chace in another.

When we were come to this Place, The Tartars would not convoyes any further, ſaying, If you were but ſenſible of the difficult paſſage [...] get the Sea, you would keep you where you are; but, added they, if you [...] reſolve to go, when you are at Oetsjoege you may ſet your courſe directly forwa [...] till you come at the Sea. This we were forced to take in good part, an [...] pay them for their pains. The money we conditioned for ſatisfie [...] them very well, but at parting they told us, that they were affraid [...] would not eaſily get through, whereas they knew no better but there was a ſtri [...] watch held on each ſide the Wolga. This laſt ſtartled us not a little however we reſolved unanimouſly hap hazard to venture through let what would follow, adjudging it equally ſafe to run that peri [...] or to ſuffer the Calamities we were liable to, and had in ſome regar [...] deſerved: and in that reſolution continued ſailing till we found th [...] Stakes or Pale-work ſo cloſe in the Mouth of the River, that the [...] was only a narrow Paſſage to go through. About the end of the ſai [...] paſſage we ſaw a Redoubt, which at a diſtance ſeemed to be ver [...] ſtrongly fortified, which mainly increaſed our fears, but greatly t [...] our good luck we found no Watch but only a few Fiſhers, who ha [...] no Authority, or warrant to examin, us, inſomuch that we ſteere [...] boldly through; but conſidering our Bread was almoſt brought to a [...] end, for we were brought to an Allowance of an ounce per diem, w [...] therefore turned back and prayed the Fiſhermen to ſupply us for our Moneys; but they told us they had hardly enough to ſuffice themſelves, which very much diſheartned us, however they ſupplied us with Fiſh as much as we had need of to ſerve us over the Caſpian Meer.

On the 14 we ſet out and left the Wolga, which there leaves it ſel [...] divided into ſeveral ſtreams or Heads like the Nile (as before) making ſo many ſeveral Iſlands, which are low and full of Reeds, except only the Iſland Satyri Boggore, which is ſurrounded on every ſide with high Cliffs. Upon this Iſland we ſaw ſome Watch-houſes which Stenko Radzin (even now remembred) had cauſed to be built, to view the approachment of his Enemies. However it was not intent [Page] his intent or deſign (in building of theſe Watch-houſes) only to be forewarned of any danger, but to prey upon the Perſian Merchant men, who were bound for Aſtrachan. From hence to the Circas-Mountains we often ſounded and found it never more, or ſeldom leſs than 12 foot Water. All along the Coaſt we ſaw abundance of Wildgeeſe Pelicans and other Fowl which now and then we beſtowed a litle powder upon. The ſtrand was all grown over with Reeds, which grow to an incredible heighth, and the Water there we found deeper than off at Sea, in ſomuch that it were very commodious, in a ſtorm for any ſmall veſſel to ſhelter themſelves, dropping anchor a litle without, for the Reeds break of the Winds and the impetuous beatings of the Water. In the afternoon towards the Evening it began to thunder and rain very hard, the Wind was very high at South and by Eaſt, and our Courſe lay South and by Weſt. The Water all the time beat over the Gunhil, and two men forced to heave out with their Backlers, though hardly to any purpoſe, for notwithſtanding all the pains they took the Shallop was ſtill full, the Tempeſt continuing ſo till 5 in the next morning, at what time it began to grow very calm and moderate, yet not ſo but that we were driven with a fine freſh Gale. The Water here is freſh and potable, and affoards all manner of Fiſh, that uſually breed in freſh Rivers, Pike, Carps, Breams, &c. Beſides Sturgeons, Seals and other creatures that will endure both.

On the 15 we loſt the ſight of Land, and came about midday into the Bay Kieſelarke, which is otherwiſe called the Golden Bay the ſand whereof ſhines as fire, and is therefore by ſome called Kiſelarſche Kolthoeh, which is no other than Golden Bay. My curioſity was often to taſt the Water; ſometimes I found it laſt of Sulfur, ſometimes of Saltpeter, and ſometimes of an od bitter taſt, whence I collected that this came from the property of the Ground and bottom. The River Kiſelar is a Branch, or an Arm of the Buſtro, riſing about 8 Dutch Leagues above Terki, and runs paralel with the VVolga about 65 leagues, ſo disbanding its floods into the Caſpian Sea. But now we were in a more deſperate Condition than ever, partly for that our Shallop was ſo loaden that we were not a foot above Water, and on the other hand wanted bread, for we had not above 6 or 7 pound among all the Company. The Wind began to grow high and boyſtrous, and [Page] towards the Evening we had a very rough Sea, every billow riſing Mountains high, inſomuch that with continual pumping and laving we had much ado to keep the Shallop above Water, working ſome times 4 or 5 together, and by taking turns relieved thoſe that were weary every hour with freſh men. The next morning we could ſee no land, but let all be left to the mercy of GOD.

On the 16 we had a ſtiff gale, and ſailed before the Wind, which furthered us ſo, that by noon we deſcried Land: and ſoon after got ſight of a Dageſtan-Tartar's Barque, which we made up to, but when we came near it, it was run upon a Bank, and deſerted of the Men, which upon our approaching them, jump'd over board. We perceiving that it was only for us that they left their Veſſel; called out to them, and willed them freely to return and that we meant no harm; upon which they came back, and we pray'd them to furniſh us with ſome bread for our Money, but they told us that they had not enough for their own Voyage however they gave us 6 litle Loaves, for which they would have no money, as alſo dried Pears and Plumbs which we thank fully received. This ſaid Bark was laden with Bales of Silk and bound for Aſtrachan, which when we underſtood we gave them a Caution, and told them that we verily beleeved that by that time Aſtrachan was in hand of the Coſacks, and conſequently we could not judge it ſafe for them to proceed on their Journey thither. They thanked us for our Advice, and directed their Courſe for Terky, that being alſo a good Market. We agreed among our ſelves to follow the like courſe, with intent, at leaſt, to ſupply our want of Proviſion, not knowing whether the Town was taken in by the Coſacks, or that it was ſtill under the Emperour. About 9 in the Evening we anchored before the Town, and immediately upon our anchorage ſaw 10 or 12 Soldiers come rowing towards us, but when they came nigh ſaw that we were well armed, offered not to do any violent Act, but only asked us, Who we were? and, From whence we came? We anſwered, That we were Hollanders, belonging to his Majeſties great Ship at Aſtrachan, and were come thither to ſound the Bay and Haven. Ho! Ho! ſaid they, are you thoſe men? You muſt come before the Lord Deputy: hereupon we made anſwer, That it was then too late, but the next Morning betimes we would wait upon his Excellency. With this anſwer they ſeem'd to be ſatisfied but we thought it not ſafe for us to tarry there long, but [Page] before creek of day we looſed, and ſet our courſe S. and by W.

Terky is ſituate in 43 degr. and 27 min. about an [English] league from the ſtrand. It has been 3 times ſurveyed and laid out.A Deſcription of Terky. The firſt time by the Ruſſes themſelves; the ſecond time by one Cornelius Claaſz a Dutch Ingenieur, about the year 1636, who alſo ſtrengthned the ſaid Town with Walls and Bulwarks after the modern way of Fortification: and in the year 1670 it was ſurvey'd and fortified anew by Colonel Baily, an English Gentleman, with huge ſtrong Bulwarks, and and a wide and deep Mote, encompaſſing it quite round. The City is ſeated in a Champan Countrey without either Wood or Hill ſo far as one can view. The River is alſo called Terky by the Moſcovians, but by the Inhabitants Timenky. The Banks lying upon the Sea are all grown over with Canes, and rough. Terky is a place of great Truſt, being the Kay or Barricado of the Czars Dominions, for it lies on the Frontiers of the Ruſſian Territories, and for that end has always a Garriſon of 2000 Strelitzers.

All the night it blew very hard, and in the morning we ſaw land on each ſide. The Iſland which lay on the Larboard ſide we called Meynders Iſland, becauſe he was the firſt that diſcovered it. We ſteered directly through the Iſlands, and when we were about 20 leagues within the Bay, we diſcovered high land, which we afterward knew to be the famous Caucaſus and Ararat, which alſo border and extend to the Circas Hills, and ſailing a litle further we found that we were near the Quick-ſands, ſo that we were fain to tack about, and bear up to the Channel, where coming we ſounded and found it 2 fathom, and a good ſandy ground. Being juſt got thorow the ſtraits or narrow Channel, we looked about and diſcovered a great Bark making up toward us with all the Sail they could; which afterwards we underſtood was ſent by order of the Governour of Terki, to purſue us, having 62 Soldiers, and all well armed aboard, with a charge from the Governour to give us no quarter, but to hack us in pieces, and to bring back the Shallop and Goods to Terky. We ſeeing them in a full purſuit thought it no time to dally, but laboured as hard as we could, till we got the Iſland Sierlan where we came to Anchor, and the Bark ſeemed to give over their chace.

On the 18 ditto, betimes in the morning we ſet Sail, and indeavoured to gain the High land, which before the Evening came, on [Page] we did putting in at a River, and were aſſured that we were not within the Juriſdiction of the Czar, which is bounded by the Timenki.

Bounds of the Circas Tartars. Their Perſons,The Circas Dominion begins at the Timenki, and is bounded from Nagaya by the Step; and from the Dageſtan-Tartars by the River Buſtro. The Countrey is very fertile, producing good ſtore both of Fruit and Grain, and is alſo good Paſture-ground. The men are very corpulent and withall robuſt, have broad-faces but not ſquare like the Calmucs, Complexions. or Crims; they are of a ſwarthy yellow complexion, and ſhave their Heads and Beards after a ſtrange manner: Croſs over the head they make a bare ſtroak, and yet let a tuft grow in the Crown, and on each ſide it hangs down in two great buſhes, which ſometimes they let hang looſe, and ſometimes plate. They wear gray Felt-coats with a mantle of the ſame,and Habits. which is rough without; this they hang ſlovenly about the neck made faſt with a great button, that they can turn it which way they liſt, and make it ſerve for a Buckler againſt the Wind. They ſometimes wear Bonnets, made of cloath, which they fold into a ſquare figure, that they look like Jeſuits Caps when they wear them. They are a ſurly ill-natured people and blockiſh, not fit to converſe with, but yet more friendly than the Calmucs. They ſeldom appear abroad without their Horſes, upon which they ſeem as if they were planted. Their Arms are a kind of Muſquet, but the Longbow is with them more in uſe, which they can handle with great dexterity.

Their Women in regard of their complexion ſeem almoſt as if they were of another Nation, being in reality very fair and lovely, their skin as white as the faireſt people of Europe, and their countenance angelical; which I have often wondred at, when I compared them with the Men. They are alſo well proportioned in their Bodies and of a middle ſtature. Their Eiebrows are jet-black, as alſo their Hair which hangs down in ſeven or 8 curled locks on each ſide the Head. They cover not their Faces, like moſt of the Women in the bordedering Nations. Their Head-attire is a double black Hood, lined with Cotton and made faſt under the Chin: above that they wear a Velvet or ſattin Quoif, and are very nice in ſetting of it. The Widdows are diſtinguiſhed by wearing a Cows-bladder behind their head, fullblown, and covered over with Silk, or ſome fine Stuff, ſo that at a diſtance one would think that they had 2 Heads a piece. In Winter [Page] [Page]

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[Page] [Page] they wear Furs, but in Summer are ſo impatient of heat, that they only wear a looſe Shirt of red, green or blue, and that open from the Collar to the Navel. Thoſe of better faſhion do uſually wear two Coats and a pair of Drawers coming down to the Calf of the Legg, and ſometimes to the ancles. They are as curious in ſetting of their Breſts as the English or French Ladies, altho they never accuſtome themſelves to painting. They are very familiar and free in converſation and will not refuſe to let a ſtranger kiſs them: altho in preſence of their Husbands who are never jealous without reaſon. To confeſs the Truth I was very much careſſed by them, being often beckned at under colour of viewing my Habit, which to them ſeemed very ſtrange. To be brief their Women are as curious in their Accoutrements and adorning of the Body, as they are complete perſons by nature. They are very ambitious and emulating in ornaments, and are well trick'd up with Chains, Bracelets, Rings and other fine things, and thoſe both of Gold, Silver, Pearl, Coral, &c. which they become exceeding well. As I have already ſaid, they are very friendly and familiar with ſtrangers, as appeared by their community with us, when as ſome of our men began to tickle and play with them, which they took all in good part, but HE that offered to be bolder paid ſeverely for it. The Men, altho the Alchoran do diſpence with Polygamy, yet they reſt contented with one wife, whether becauſe they think it too chargeable, or otherwiſe unreaſonable I cannot affirm. They are Mahometans by profeſſion, but in reality meer Heathens; for although they ſpeak much of one only eternal God the Author of their being, and Adminiſtrator of the World, yet they deny him in their Idolatry and Devil-worſhip. They have neither Prieſts, Churches, nor Writ, but at certain times and places preſent themſelves with their Offerings. The greateſt day wherein they pay theſe Religious duties is on the Feſtival of St. Elias which happened on that very time when we were there, which we eſſayed to ſee ſolemnized, but were not permitted. All I could obſerve was only the Sacrificing of a Hee-goat, which after they had cut off his Genitals, offered the ſore and boyled the hinder-part, which themſelves always eat, hanging the Hide upon a Stake, which is done with a few Ceremonies and Singing. Theſe Solemnities are alſo done as often as any of their Friends are deceaſed, whoſe corps they commit [Page] [...] [Page] [...] [Page] very decently to the Earth but not without a great howling and a noiſe; thoſe alſo that follow him tear and mangle their Bodies after an unuſual manner.

CHAP. XVII. They Author and his Company err in their Courſe. They meet with a Coſac-Bark. A great Tempeſt. The Beginning and Limits of the Dageſtan-Tartars; Their Poſture or Frame of Body, Habit and Way of Living. They are great Plagiaries. The Barrenneſs of the Dageſtan Mountains. Another great Tempeſt. The Shallop run aſtrand and is ſpied by the Tartars, who plunder them. The ſtrange way of electing the Dageſtan Kings. They are aſſailed by another Company who ravish the Woman in preſence of her Husband, and convert them all to Slaves. The Author tortured to detect his Companions, which he manfully endures. They are brought before the Oſmyn, and chained.

ON the 19 ditto, we ſet ſail and directed our courſe towards the Iſland Tzetzien, which we ſailed paſt, and had Tzierlan to the leeward; having very miſty weather all the while, which dured 24 hours or more.

The next morning it cleared up, and we got ſight of the high Circas Mountains, which we aimed at, if poſſible to come nearer the ſhoar, & ſo to coaſt it all along, after we had laboured and lay beating in the Wind about 3 or 4 hours we ſaw a long neck of Land, which we took for an Iſland, and indeavouring to ſail through a narrow paſſage we found our ſelves in a Quickſand, ſo that we were fain to tack about, having ſail'd the whole day in vain, and at the dawning of the day we came into the Channel which was a good ſandy ground and fit for Anchorage. Here we met with a Bark having about 60 or 70 Men on board, who called to us and prayed us to help them afloat, pretending they were aground, and faſt among the ſands, which ſome of our Company would have done, but the major part were for the Negative, and ſo overſway'd the reſt that were willing; for we ſaw the Veſſel jogg too and again very lightly, that we eaſily ſuſpected ſome bad deſign, as afterward it appeared, for when they ſaw us wind about, they made all the Sail they could and purſued us, till finding that we were very well armed they gave over their chace. The men [Page] aboard were Coſacks, and as we beleeved of Radzins Folk.

Finding that they left us we conſulted which way to ſteer, and reſolved to let drive before the Wind. We ſounded and found 4 fathom, and came in a ſhort time cloſe by Zierlan, which we found to ly in 43 degr. 7 min. From hence we ſaw the famous Ararat, mounting his head far above the Caucaſus, which was nearer us. The Land of the Iſland Zierlan is all covered with ſhells, which ſeem to be waſh'd over, with high Floods and Inundations, whence I preſume none will Inhabit it. About evening we put off, and after an hours failing ſounded and found we had 6 fathom and a ſandy ground. When night came we were ſurprized with a great Tempeſt, and the Sea roſe mountains high, inſomuch that we expected every moment to go to bottom, and ſo we were thrown to and again on the tops of the billows. In the morning it began to clear up and the Winds abated ſomething, ſo that we made a litle ſail, and indeavoured to ſteer towards the High-lands on the Circas coaſt. After much labour in beating through the Waves, and danger of our lives we got that heighth. We ſailed by a Tartarian City Seated near the Water between two Hills, and by the way met with a Moſcovian Boes where the Men aboard had acquaintance with us, having lay with their Veſſel aboard our Ship at Aſtrachan. The ſaid Men invited us all to dinner, of Freſh Mutton and Rice, which they firſt parboiled, and afterward ſtewed with Butter, of which we made a hearty meal. After we had taken our leaves of them, we ſteered away by the Coaſt, and ſaw many pleaſant Valleys and a fruitfull Countrey. When the Evening came on, and we ſeeing it good weather reſolved that night to take our reſt, which we had not done for 3 nights together, and to that end dropped anchor.

On the 20 we came within 15 Leagues of Derbent, The Dageſtan-Tartars. Their Form, Habit and VVay of living. which is the land of the Dageſtan Tartars, who are ſo called for that they inhabit the hilly Countrey, the word Dag in their tongue ſignifying a Mountain. That part of the Countrey which lies toward the Sea is dry and heathy, but within land very fruitfull, as afterward to our ſorrow we found it. The men are very robuſt and able of Body, of a deep ſwarthy complexion, and terrible to look at. Their Habit is much at one with the Circas-Tartars. Their ſhoes are onely made of an Horſes hide undreſt and of one piece, drawn together above the foot with Thongs. Their [Page] Arms are only Bow Arrows and a Scimmatar, although ſome have alſo Spears and Launces: when they ride out, or go upon any expedition, they put themſelves in Harnaſs, to wit, a Helmet and a Target. They are great Men-ſtealers, not ſticking if they find oppo [...] tunity to ſell their own Relations, or Children of their neareſt Friends, which they bring to the Turks and Perſians. They are very bold, and not eaſily daunted at any forreign Power, truſting to the ſteep cragg [...] and Mountains which are to others inacceſſible. They are Mahometans by profeſſion, but ſorry Zealots for their Religion. The Wome [...] feed and keep cattel, but their men go out a Robbing. Theſe Mountains are very barren and ſandy except where it is chalky.

The next day we weighed anchor and came before the Tartari [...] town Boynak, which when we had juſt paſſed by, it began to blow very hard, from the Sea ward, we having then about 16 fathom Water In the mean time the Sea began to grow very rough and hollow that we were forced to run the Shallop immediately a ſtrand for fear of overturning; being then but 5 leagues from Derbent, which was the neareſt Land. Directly before the coaſt lay a long Rif or Bank and round about us was rocks, which we by the grace of GOD eſcaped, tho very narrowly; for indeavoring to get our ſelves afloa [...] again we ran into a Circle of Rocks about 3 or 4 foot under Water, and had much labour to get clear. Having now wrought our ſelves out we gave our ſelves over to the mercy of Heaven, letting the Boat drive what way it would, till at laſt by a great Sea we were thrown upon the ſtrand, without either loſs of men or Goods, every man packing up what they thought fit to carry along with them. The Goods which belonged to Capt. Butler and Mr. Termund we buried in the Sand, thinking to ſend for them upon occaſion by the Perſians. But moſt unhappy proved this our landing here, for no ſooner were we come aſhoar but we were eſpied by the Tartars, who came and delved up the Goods we had ſo hidden, and carried it away upon their Horſes to a litle Village hard by, and brought the news of ſuch an accidental Booty to Aly Sultan, their Prince, who came on Horſe back with a guard of Troopers to ſeek us. Altho by day we hid our ſelves in the Woods, and by night went forward on our Journey.

Having remained one night in the Woods where we took our reſt, Our Company conſulted what was beſt to do, whether to march [Page] forward on our journey or to tarry; It was adviſed by the major part to go, but I was rather deſirous to tarry 3 or 4 days longer, till the heat of the purſuit was over, that ſo thinking when the Tartars ſhould have ſought for us a while in vain, they would give us over for loſt. However they were very forward to be going, and rejected my Council. In the mean while C. Brak ſlept with his wife and child at a litle diſtance from us, and the reſt of the Company would that we ſhould leave them there, becauſe that the Woman and Child were but a cumber to us. So ſoon as I underſtood their intent was to leave them ſo, I inſiſted on the contrary, with words to this effect. Pray Gentlemen remember your ſelves; to what end ſhould you do ſuch an unworthy act, and leave thoſe poor ſouls behind us who have neither Money nor means to ſubſiſt, and muſt in all apparency periſh in a ſtrange place? and then what guilt muſt we have upon our Conſciences? But know this if you indeed reſolve, to go and leav'em it is alſo my reſolution to cry out and make our Fates equal. When they ſaw me ſo zealous and in a hot paſſion, they were contented to take them with us. I was the more concerned at it, for his Fathers ſake, who when we left our Native Countrey ſhow'd us all imaginable Friendſhip, and therefore indeared him the more to me. About half a day we marched with Muſkets and other heavy Armor upon our ſhoulders, beſides our baggage, along the ſides of the Mountains, till at laſt we came into a Valley where we were eſpied by a Company of Troopers, being about 15 or 16. Theſe made up towards us, and drove harder and harder, till coming near at hand, we began to conſult about the point of Safety, yet could not come to an unanimous Reſolution till it was too late: ſome were for Defence, others for yielding, which Advice was thought beſt, and approved on by the major part; for that we thought if the kind Heavens had given us the Field for that time, yet we were ſure that ſome muſt looſe their lives, and that they might in the mean time be ſeconded by another freſh Party, who when all was done would take the remainder and uſe us the more unkindly for our obſtinacy.They ſurrender themſelves, We therefore upon their approachment freely ſurrendred our ſelves into their hands and implored their Mercy after the beſt manner, and with all the ſigns we could. When they had got us into their Power, they drove us into the Juriſdiction of the Scemkals, for we were then within the Confines of the Oſmin. When they had brought us [Page] within their own limits, they allighted from their horſes and plundered us, yet not with that rigorous uſage we feared, for having ſtript us of our upper Garment they let us go, taking only what we had with us that was thought to be of any value. They took from me a Parcel of rich Silk, which I had bought of the Rebells at Aſtrachan, but my gold Chain which I had faſtened in the inſide of my Garter they did not find. When they had thus pillaged us, they directed us which way to go for our Safety.

Dageſtan is a Countrey ſubject to divers Princes and Lords who are independently Sovereign, but the moſt principal Provinces are Scemkal and Oſmin, already mentioned: and of thoſe two, the former is the more eminent, the Government whereof is not hereditary,A ſtrange manner of electing a Prince. but by lot, which is after this manner. The High Prieſt firſt appoints a day of Election, to which ſeveral of the Princes, or Myrſes (as they term them) are aſſembled, theſe being ſet all in order round about him, he throws up a litle Apple, but whether of Gold, or Gilded, I cannot be poſitiv: upon this they all grabble to catch it, and he that getts it is choſen for their Prince, altho, he can favour any he has a mind to, by caſting it that way. Which may alſo ſerv for an Embleme to repreſent Elections in other places, where Policy ſeems to be more refined.

They are aſſailed and plundered a ſecond time.By that time we had travelled an hour, we were aware of another Troop of Horſe; greater than the former, who fell ſuddenly upon us, ſtripped us to the ſhirts, and raviſhed the wife of my Countreyman Brak, before our Eies, and left her naked. My ſhirt and Drawers which were left me I gave to the Woman, on whom I had more compaſſion than on my ſelf.They take their leaves of each other and depart. Upon this deplorable accident we took our leaves of each other and departed, being naked and unfit to aſſiſt each other any more, going two or three in a company together. Els Pieterſon and Mr. Tolk chuſed to go with me, and by that time we had travailled 2 or 3 hours further we were ſet upon by another Company of Horſe,The Author and two more taken and made Slaves. belonging to the Oſmin. Theſe took us, tied our hands behind our back, made us faſt to their Horſes Tails, and ſo to trot after them through Thiſtles and Thorns backwards, ſo that the Horſe men driving on apace ſometimes dragged us forward, for it was not poſſible that we ſhould keep pace with them. After they had brought us a good way, they untied me and binding [Page] me faſt to a Tree, ſhot me with their Arrows, which they had broken off and made ſtumped on purpoſe to urge me to diſcover the reſt of our Company. But when they could not move me to detect them they continued ſhooting, that I often wiſhed that they would have diſpatched me, and rid me of that miſery. The marks and pits remain ſtill in my Body, as I have ſhown them to many hundreds ſince my arrival at home. Theſe Torments I endured with incredible patience, not willing to detect my Countreymen, Torments, I ſay, that none without experience could be able to imagine how great. When they inſiſted hard that I ſhould tell them which way they went, I told them that they went toward the Hilly Countrey, altho I was certain on the contrary for they had determined to go along the River, that they might have their ſhelter in the Woods. After they had uſed us ſo inhumanly and out of hopes of getting any thing from us, they took me and Els Pleterſz, tied us legg to legg with a ſmall Iron Chain, and ſo brought us up to the Prince Oſmin, often threatning that they would tear us limb from limb, ſuſtaining that Opinion of us that we were of Stephen Radzin's Company, and ſent out as Emmiſſaries on his behalf, and therefore were reſolved that his Inſolencies ſhould be lay to our charge. When I underſtood that their Opinion and Intentions were ſuch, I was in a great conſternation, not that I was affraid of Death (for that was what I chiefly longed for, at that time) but that we were liable to ſuch a bad Cenſure, and could not explain our ſelves ſo well, as to ſatisfy them to the contrary: and beſides all that to be kept alive and ſuffer ſo many Tortures as they threatned us, to detect what we were utterly ignorant of, and unable to ſatisfy them in.

When we came to the Princes Palace, they led us thro the Guards that ſtood on each ſide with naked Scimmatars in their hands; theſe we expected to be our Executioners, to hew us in pieces, altho afterwards we underſtood it was the manner there, when captives are brought before the Prince. So ſoon as my Companion ſaw this wofull ſight he turned his head about, and ſtared upon me with a very frightfull look, which I beleeve was the firſt time, and the occaſion of a Frenzy, which he has been often ſince poſſeſſed with, and I beleeve (if he be alive) continues with him till this day. Being come before the Prince we threw our ſelves down at his feet; he thereupon [Page] aſked us, Whence we came, and to what end we were come thither? We anſwered, Dutch, and fled from Aſtrachan, to avoid the Coſacks, who upon our departure were about to lay ſiege to that City, and now come to implore your Highneſſes gracious Protection. All this I hear very well (quoth the Prince) but I am certain that you are your ſelves Coſacs, and of that Rout which not long ago depopulated my Countrey and made Havoc of my Subjects, and now the Villain, your Maſter having taken in Aſtrachan has ſent you as Spies and Explorators to viſit my Towns. Our reply was, Sir, we know nothing of the Deſigns of the Coſacs, but ſerved as Marriners in a Ship, which ſome of our Countrey-men have built for the Emperour of Moſcovia. When the Prince heard that, he was ſome what appeaſed, hearing us with more attention, and that we might the better be underſtood, he called for ſome Ruſſian Slaves, who aſſured him that we were no Coſaks but real Dutch, for that we had nothing of the Coſac-Dialect. Upon this the Prince turned about, and told us our Life was granted us. This news was very welcom to us, but had been more welcom if we had with one been ſet at liberty for we were chained ſeverally and ſent away to Mahemet Sultan, the Princes Son, whoſe Reſiding place was near mount Ararath.

CHAP. XVIII. The Captives take their leavs of each other. The great Orchard near Tzurbag. Their Arrival at Urwan. Situation of Mount Ararat. An accidental meeting with ſome Carmelito Friars. The Author inſiſted upon to undertake a Cure of a Rupture, which with much perſwaſion, he promiſes to do. His aſcent up the Mountain Ararat, to the Hermites Cell who was his Patient, which he performs in 5 days time. He undertakes and Cures the Rupture. The Copy of an Atteſtation given him by the ſaid Hermite in barbarous Latin. His return down.

ON the 21 dito, my Companion and I took our leaves of each other, but not without great ſadneſs, for ſo ſoon as we were brought out, and underſtood that we were to go two ſeveral ways, I obſerved Tears run down his cheeks, which alſo moved me to weep, for that we were out of hopes ever to ſee one anothers face again in this World, neither that our Wives or Friends ſhould ever hear from us [Page] or that we ever were like to be redeemed by our Friends or Countrey men being in a remote Land. Having thus taken our laſt Farewell of each other, I was ſet upon a Mule, and committed to the Charge of ſome Slaves and Renegados, who were to bring me to the Court of Prince Mahomet, being about 3 [Dutch] miles from Urwan.

About Evening we came to a Village called Tzurbag ſeated upon a high Mountain, where we took up our lodging for that night. While we ſtayed here there came abundance of Women to ſee me, who wondred that I wore ſuch long hair, for the Inhabitants of theſe Countreys (being Mahometans) always ſhave their Heads bare.

On the 22 betimes in the morning we ſet forward, and went through a great Grove of Fruit-trees, where we ſaw abundance of wild Swine maſting of the ſhaken Fruit. Theſe Fruit trees do not grow naturally of themſelves here, for they have an Ordinance among them in that Countrey, That none, of whether Sex it be, ſhall marry, till they can prove that they have planted a Hundred Trees with their own Hands, ſo that they begin when they are Children to plant; which having been obſerved for ſome Ages, is the reaſon that this Wood is grown ſo wide. There are divers ſorts of Fruits, as Apples, Pears, Cherries, Figgs, Almonds, Wallnuts and others, and that in ſuch abundance that the hundreth part is not conſumed or us'd, for none are prohibited to pluck and carry away. There is alſo very fair Medow and Arable Ground, the Fields full of Corn, affoarding many delicate and rich Plants, both for Kitchin uſe, and Medicinal. Cattel is there both good and plentifull, far ſurpaſſing ours in Europe for fatneſs, eſpecially Kine & Sheep; Goats and Swine, both wild and tame, run together in innumerable Flocks, but incredible is the Plenty of Hens and Pidgeons which are brought in and ſold for trifles.

On the 30th we arrived at Urwan, or Ervan, a City ſituated under Mount Ararat, in the Countrey of the Medes, about 65 Leagues from the Caſpian Sea. The Town is not very wide, but ſufficiently munited with ſtrong walls of ſtone, being about the greatneſs of Alcmaar in North-Holland. There are in it ſome Perſian Moſquees, and Churches, as alſo a Cloyſter of Carmelite Friars. They uſe no kind of Commerce, or Merchandiſe, ſave that of Slaves, which the [Page] Dageſtan Tartars come to buy there, and are there ſo cheap that a luſty well-bodied youngman is ordinarily ſold for ten Crowns, as ſome of our Company were ſold for the ſame price. The City Urwan is moſtly inhabited by the poorer ſort of Armenians; but Mount Ararat, by thoſe of the Romish Faith, and other Chriſtians.

Mount Ararat is ſeated juſt in the parting of Armenia from Media, and is reckoned under the rank of the Dageſtan and Caſpian Mountains. The Armenians call it Meſsina, and the Perſians Agri: It is much higher than either Caucaſus, or the famous Taurus, or any other Mountain in all Media, Armenia or Perſia, ſo far as one can view. It is a blew, and dark-coloured Rock. I have found there a kind of a dark yellow Mineral, very ponderous, and ſparkling; but could never learn what mettal it would have produced if melted, nor that of a ſparkling Sand and Duſt, which I alſo found here, although I brought a proof of each, which I loſt, when we were taken at Sea by the Engliſh and plundered, as herafter ſhall be ſaid at large. This Mountain is for the moſt part barren, and without Earth, and what may be further ſaid by way of Deſcription, the Reader will find in the Relation of my Aſcent towards the Top of it.

My Maſters purpoſe was to ſell me here, but I could eaſily perceive, that they had no great mind to buy me. The ſame evening two Carmelite Friars came to me, and aſked, If I was not a Chirurgeon, or, if I had any Judgment that way? I replied, No: but not ſatisfied with the Anſwer I gave them, they applyed themſelves to my Patron, aſking him the ſame Queſtion; the one of them telling him, that a Friend of his had a Rupture, and if I could perform the Cure, they would give him 50 Crowns. My Maſter hearing ſuch a tinkling ſum of Money promiſed, preſs'd very hard upon me to undertake the Work, promiſing upon Condition that I effected the Cure, he would declare me Franc. Hereat I was in a great ſtrait, on the one hand incited by the ſweet hopes of Freedom, and on the other daunted when I thought what a ſevere penalty I was liable to from the hands of thoſe cruel men, if I ſhould chance to miſcarry However I took courage, and conſented to take the Patient in hand truſting in the good Grace of GOD, and hoping for a lucky ſucceſs which alſo would have come to paſs, by the death of one of us three Thus I undertook the Journey, and was ſeven days before I came [Page] [Page]

[figure]

[Page] [Page] to the Hermites Cell, travailing every day 5 Miles,JUL. 1670. which we reckoned for a good days journey, the more, in regard that the higher we came, the ſteeper we found the Hill. At every 5 Miles end we [...]und a Hermitage, where we were ſupplyed with a Peaſant and an Aſs, to carry our Proviſion, and Wood for Fewel, becauſe that about the midle of the Mountain it is ſo extreme cold, that Ice of half a nights freezing, will bear man and horſe. In our Journey upwards, we paſſed through three ſorts of clouds. The firſt were thick, miſty and dark. The ſecond were cold and like ſnow, although it was then perfect ſummer below in the Valleys, and ſo warm that the Grapes were very early ripe. The third ſort were ſo cold, that we could hardly endure any longer, and thought verily that we ſhould have grown ſtiff, and not able to proceed on our Journey. But having now travailed 4 days, and had paſſed through the higheſt and coldeſt clouds, we found the Air very temperate and tolerable. On the 7 of that Moneth, we arrived at the Hermites houſe, which was hewen out of a Rock, the Weather being there ſo moderate and gentle as man can imagine, or heart can wiſh; neither more hot than might very well be endured, nor yet more cold than was expetible and congruous to humane conſtitution. The ſun enlivened us with thwarting beams, which were again refracted, with the refreſhing gales of Wind; the Wind correcting the Sun, the Sun the Wind. The Hermite told me he had lived there 25 years, and never had ſeen the weather any otherwiſe. But on the top of the Hill, it was yet more calm, where as none can remember that the Air there did ever change, or was ſubject either to Wind or Rain, which is preſumed to be the reaſon that the Ark has endured ſo long without being rotten.

Going into the Hermites Cell, I took a view of the Rupture, which I ſaw was ſhut forth about the bulk of a henns-egg; and with one aſked him, How long he had had it? he anſwered, A Moneth: which gave me good encouragement, ſince I was ſure that the Fiſſure was freſh, and therefore the Cure with greater facility to be effected.

Thus I undertook the work, and taking 200 freſh Hen-eggs I boyled them hard, and made thereof an Unguent. I made alſo a Truſs, and anointed him 4 times a day with the Oyntment cauſing him to ly ſtill for a fortnight together, which done I let him riſe up to ſee [Page] how he was, and found that it was ſufficiently bettered: for the Rupture which he with his own hands had indeavoured to ſtop, by thruſting it in, and as often broke out, was now ſtay'd, and he told me that he could every day perceiv that it grew better. I gave him advice to keep himſelf a whole year in the Truſs, and continue anoynting himſelf after the manner I did myſelf, which he alſo promiſed to obſerv. When I took my leav of him, he gave me a piece of hard wood, of a dark-red colour, with a Croſs, and a ſilver Chain which he wore about his neck, as alſo a Stone, which he told me he had taken from under the Ark; Theſe Relicts he adjured me to be very carefull of, ſaying the real value and eſteem thereof would be ſuch, that if ever I came to Rome, and beſtowed them on St. Peters Church that they would reward me with a Gift which ſhould ſerve me for a maintenance ſo long as I lived. The Wood and the Croſs I brought with me, but the ſtone, with ſome ſparkling Oar were taken from me when the Engliſh took our Ship. The Hermite was born at Rome, and of very good Parentage, his Father being one of the moſt eminent Citizens there, who upon his Death-bed charged his Son, To retire himſelf from the Society of Men and betake himſelf to the Mountain Ararat, there to ſpend his days in a Heremitical Life. The Son in obedience to this his Father's Will, took upon him this Journey and manner of Life, where he had then been 25 years, living there in great Tranquillity and with more contentment than he could do in the World of Rome. Beſides thoſe Relicts already mentioned he gave me a Teſtimonial in Writing, to evidence to the Curious my being there, which [after a Monkiſh Elegancy] runs thus:

The Heremites Atteſtation given to J. Struys.POſtquam non potui intermittere ad petitionem Johannis Janſonii, precabatur, ut Teſtimonium ipſi darem ſcriptum, quod ſuper-nominatus Joannes Janſonius fuerit apud me in monte Sancto Ararath, circiter triginta quinque miliarium ſurſum eundo; ubi praenominatus Joannes me ſanavit ab una magna ruptura; propterea ipſi maximas gratias ago, propter magnam diligentiam ſuam quam mihi praeſtitit: & ipſi pro hâc benevolentia donavi unam Crucem quod fuit fruſtum ligni de vera Archa Noe, ubi in perſona intus fui, & illud de quo iſta crux eſt facta, [Page] propriis meis manibus ab una camera ſcidi. Ubi ego Joanni Janſon. perfectius veritatem narravi quommodo illa Archa eſt facta: Super hoc ipſi lapidem etiam dedi, quem ipſemet manibus meis decerp [...] ſi infra Archam, ubi Archa quieſcit. Hoc omne fateor eſſe verum, tam verum, quam vere ego in iſta mea ſancta eremitica habitatione de facto vivo.

Datum in monte Ararat, die 22 Iulii 1670.

DOMINICUS ALEXANDER, Romanus.

True it is the Autograph is but barbarous ſtuff, void of the true Latin Idiotiſms, yet we thought good to give it you as it is, rather than to put it in a ſtyle more proper, or give it a better elegancy. It may be thus verbally Paraphraſ'd:

Inaſmuch as Iohn Iohnſon [Struys] deſired me, I could not refuſe to give him a Teſtimonial, how that he the ſaid l. l. was with me upon the Holy mount Ararat, about 35 miles high, where the ſaid Iohn cured me of a grievous Rupture, and acknowledge my ſelf greatly obliged to him, for his Care and Diligence in the ſame. And further to manifeſt my thankfullneſs towards him, I have given him a Croſs, being of the wood of the [...]eal Ark of Noah, which I have cut out of a Chamber of the the ſaid Ark with my own hands, having been there perſonally my ſelf: as I have verbally demonſtrated to the ſaid Iohn I. after what manner the ſaid Ark is made. Beſides this I have given him a Stone, which with my own hand I have pulled from under the Ark, being a part of the Rock, whereon it is ſupported. All this I teſtify to be true, and ſo true as I live in this my holy Hermitage.

Dated at mount Ararat July 22 1670

DOMINICUS ALEXANDER, Roman.

[Page]The ſame day I took my leave of the Heremite, and ſet forward on my Journey to Urwan in the Valley, accompanied as before in my going up with an Aſs and his Driver:He takes his leave of the Heremite. but the way I found more uneaſy to travail in coming down, eſpecially when we came in the cold clouds, where it was ſo ſlippery that I expected every moment to tumble head-long down. Coming ſtill lower we found it worſe, for it rained hard, which with the unevenneſs of the Rocks made our way very dangerous. At laſt after much labour I got down, and can well aſſure the Reader that their Opinion is not true, who ſuppoſe this Mount to be innacceſſible.

CHAP. XIX. The Author put in Chains again: He is inſiſted upon to renounce the Chriſtian Faith and become Mahometan; Divers means to that end put in practiſe by way of Trial. The great gain of warm Baths. The Author taken out of Chains. He is ſold to a Perſian. The Situation of the Caſpian Sea. Great Whirlpools in the Bay of Gilan. A diſcourſe about the Silk-trade. A further Deſcription of the Caſpian Sea, &c.

SO ſoon as I was arrived at Urwan and entred the Houſe of my Patron Mehemet, he gave order to ſecure me with 2 Chains, for he feared that I would make my eſcape, by running into the Turkish Jurisdiction. One of theſe Chains was light and tolerable, but the other very maſſy and ponderous, inſomuch that to bear the Chain alone, might ſeem to be Slavery enough. This Condition brought me into a deep Melancholy, even to death, not only that I should become a Slave, but that my Patrons Incredulity should be the occaſion of ſuch Affliction to me, as alſo that he should ſo much violate his Word, when having promiſed to let me go free again, on condition he received that money upon my effecting the Cure, which the Heremite cauſed to be honeſtly paid; for had I not truſted to that his promiſe, I should have prevailed with the Heremite ſo far as to purchaſe my liberty, ſince the Slave-market is there very low. Beſides all this he continually wrought upon me to renounce Chriſtianity, with many fair Promiſes, as, that if I would be Circumciſed [Page] he would give me, two of the faireſt Damoſels in the Countrey for Wives; but this his proffer I refuſed without making much ſtudy in framing of an Anſwer, deſiring him rather to ſevere my head from my body, than to urge me to what my Conſcience would not diſpence with: yet not ſatiſfied with this Reply, he perſiſted on, and told me that he would give me ſo many Acres of Ground, beſides Orchards and Slaves: yet all he could imagine to perſwade me to embrace the Turkish Faith, would not move me ſo much as to give him the leſt hopes: inſomuch that for that time he broke off without giving me any ſharp Language. Shortly after he ſent 2 fair Girls, who at firſt entrance ſaluted me very friendly, and beginning with a trifling diſcourſe, they proceeded on to more ſerious matters, and conſequently proffered themſelves to me as Wives, making uſe of a Ruſsian Slave to be their Interpreter: and to make their requeſt prove the more effectual, they began to ſtroak me, and play a hundred wanton tricks to allure me, which when I perceived, pray'd them to deſiſt and not to trouble me any longer, for it was againſt my Conſcience to violate the Laws of Chriſtianity, which forbid Polygamy, having already a Wife by whom I had two Children, and although I were in the moſt remote parts of the World, I ſhould not alienate my Love and Troth, by marrying of another ſo long as ſhe was alive. To this they made anſwer, That I ſhould never ſee either my own Countrey or Relations again, and that many thouſands would be glad of what was proffered me, and therefore willed me to accept of it, leſt I ſhould afterwards repent when it could not be revoked, &c. After they had uſed a few ſuch like Arguments they left me. Hardly were they got out but my Patron came in, who fell to work again with greater, and more ſpecious promiſes than before, as. That if I would become a Muſulman [or True Beleever] he would advance me to the Dignity of a Commander in the Guards. This perplexed me very much when I ſaw him ſo earneſt, thinking that if he could not get his will by fair means, he would proceed to rigour, and being abſolute Lord and Soveraign, as well of the Countrey, as of my Perſon, would force me to embrace the Mahometan Religion, however I had already ſtood out ſo much Torture, that being a litle hardned to it I feared it ſo much the leſs: but gave him a ſhort [Page] Anſwer; to this Effect, Sir, All the fair promiſes you have already, and that you may hereafter make shall not have that efficacy with me, as to make me renounce my Faith, for I had rather diſpatch my ſelf, than to imbrace Mahometanism. He hearing me ſay ſo did not for that time preſs me much more.

On the 9th. dito I continued ſtill in Chains, at what time the young Damoſels that had been with me before, were ſent again, who, as they did the laſt time, endeavoured to perſwade me to turn Mahometan; neither did they deſiſt to uſe all manner of Allurements they could deviſe, to entice me to ly with them, for ſo they thought that if I had done that, I muſt either become Turk, or dy a miſerable Death; They further did what they could to put me in mind of my preſent miſery, and told me that I muſt never expect to enjoy any better than what I ſaw before my eies; and in the concluſion of all, told me that they wondred at the Folly and Vanity of the Chriſtians who were ſo ſtrictly tied to Monogamy, or only to marry one Wife, when as the Mahometans might have as many as they liſted, or thought themſelves capable to maintain.

My Maſter altho he was a Prince yet thought it no diſhonour to trade in Commerce: but the chief thing he had which brought him up the moſt Revenues, were the Baths which he kept; having ſom almoſt in every City, as well in his own Juriſdiction as in Perſia and other Countreys, whereof thoſe were the moſt conſiderable, at Derbent, at Scamachy, and at Iſpahan, which brought him in a vaſt ſum of Money yearly.

The reaſon why the Baths are there in ſuch eſteem, and ſo much frequented by perſons of all Ranks and Degrees, is not only their affected Cleanlineſs, in which they ſurpaſs all others: but as well thro Superſtition: for that after the uſe of their Wives, they are to bath, being till then reputed unclean, and may not enter the Moſques: and this both ſexes are injoyned to upon ſuch Caſes by the Alcoran. A man among them may not ly with his wife from Conception to her Delivery: which is probably inſtituted as a Praecept in the Alchoran to make thoſe Countreys more populous; for ſo one Man is capable of generating many Children in one year. The Baths are frequented from Break of day to the Setting of the Sun. From morning till noon the Men bath, and from noon till night the Women, ſo taking it by Turns.

[Page]On the 10th. came my Patron to viſit me and asked me how I did, and if I had taken good Courage: I anſwered him that I had no great occaſion to thank him for my Welfare, ſince he did all he could to make me miſerable, and contrary to that Honeſty and Truth, which the Turks boaſted of, he had ſhown me an odd example: Withall telling him that he had little reaſon to chain me ſo faſt, and make my Slavery the greater when as he had promiſed me my Freedom, upon the receipt of the Money which was paid him. Upon this he ſeemed to be a little moved to compaſſion and commanded that the greater Chain ſhould be taken off: Now when I obſerved that my reaſoning had a litle prevalency with him I purſued on in my Argument, with theſe, or the like Words, Sir, Is it not ſufficient that I am your Slave? why then muſt I be kept in Chains, when as others have their liberty? If it be ſo that you fear I should go from you, Know this, That you can not keep me longer than I liſt: for I can at once part with my Life and take leav of this miſerable Bondage, which if you perſiſt to uſe me ſo inhumanly I am reſolved to do. This I could perceiv wrought in him no ſmall change, for he was naturally very covetous, and would have loſt the price of a Slave. Beſides that, it is a Maxim of their Law, that if any perſon do any way murther himſelf, the Houſe is to be accurſed and pulled down to the Ground. My Patron conſidering what the Iſſue of this might be, altho I had not the leſt thoughts to lay violent hands upon my ſelf. he therefore to prevent the worſt ſold me to one Hadſy Mahomet Sala, Mr I. Struys ſold to a Perſian. a Perſian for 25 Abbas, that was about 30 Shillings ſterl. which is but a ſmall ſum in compariſon to the ordinary Market price of Argiers, and other places in Barbary. My new Patron ſpoke the Ruſsian Tongue very well, by which means we came to underſtand one another the better: for he uſed me more kindly than the other, and would often bid me have courage, ſaying, he would go with me to Iſpahan where there were many English, Dutch and other Europeans, and probably thoſe that would buy me off his hands, and ſo ſet me at Liberty again, which gave me no ſmall encouragement to do my utmoſt to pleaſe him.

On the 12 dito, I went with my new Maſter to Derbent, and ſailed with him ſeveral times over the Caſpian Sea: his principal dealing [Page] being in Crap, which with ſeveral other Roots uſed in Dying, grow there in great abundance. He had alſo a ſmall Bark of his own, wherein he tranſported his own Commodities: This ſaid Veſſel alwayes lay in a Bay about half a League from the City, and thither his Slaves alwaies brought the Wares; for about Derbent it is very rocky and unſafe for Veſſels to lie at Anchor, in caſe of Storm or tempeſtuous Weather. But in the ſaid Bay is very good anchorage, at 6, 7 and 8 Fathom Water, and a clay ground with Shells. The Coaſt from Baynak to Maſanderan is altogether ſandy, and here and there low land, where appear the Tops of the Dageſtan Hills: between thoſe two Coaſts it is all a long very good anchorage, there being many fair Roads able to receive Ships of a greater burthen than are uſually built for this Sea; there are alſo many fair Towns, built for the moſt part at the mouths of Rivers, and have many Veſſels and Shipping belonging to them, as well for Traffic and Tranſportation of Merchandizes, as for the Fiſhing trade: for this Sea is very plentiful of Fiſh, and brings up the King of Perſia an incredible ſum of Money yearly, receiving from ſome as Toll, and from others as Contribution. In the Bay of Gilan are 2 great Whirl-pools,Great VVhirl-pools- in the Bay of Gilan. for which the Perſians are very fearfull in ſailing from their own Coaſts to Gilan. The Water in theſe Whirpools is hurried about with an incredible violence and makes ſuch a noiſe, that if the Weather be ſtill, they may be heard at 5 or 6 leagues diſtant. It is my opinion that theſe are the Paſſages whereby this great Lake has a ſubterranean communication with the Euxin, or ſom other Sea, for it is well known that it receivs 84 huge Rivers, beſides the Wolga, which is reputed the 3d River of the World for greatneſs, and hither do all the Floods of the Perſian and Tartarian Rivers haſten, as it were to their Center, with an admirable celerity, ſo that when we ſailed we always made a calculation how far we would be carried off in thwarting the ſtream, and ſo bore up towards the Coaſt, as well for ſhortning our Courſe, as to avoid the Whirpools, where if any Veſſel be brought ſhe muſt inevitably periſh. The beſt and moſt commodious Shipping for this Sea, is a Flat-bottom, from 80 to a hundred Tuns.

Upon a time it happened that my Maſter and I fell into a [Page] diſcourſe about Trading and Commerce, making a paralel between their way of merchandizing and ours, where among other Words, I told him That If I were once again at Liberty, I could make a good Advantage, and did not doubt but that in a short time I should return with a Ship full of Hollands Commodities: upon which he asked me, If I was ſo rich then? I anſwered No; But if I came ſafe into my own countrey ſome or other would intruſt me with a Cargo for thoſe parts, being now well acquainted with the Conveniency of the Caſpian Sea. My Patron hearing, that thought that I might probably be ſom way inſtrumental to do him ſervice and that night diſcourſed ſom Armenians about me who dealt in Silk: upon which they deſired to ſee me. My Maſter having appointed them a day, I went along with him, where one of the moſt eminent asked me if I could ſpeak Italian, and if I was of Amſterdam, or if I knew ſuch a Merchant there? I anſwered him in Italian, That I was of Amſterdam, but did not know the Gentleman he named, yet was acquainted with ſeveral there who dealt in Silk. He then entred into a diſcourſe which was much after this manner: ‘That the only way to Trade with Holland, was to bring over, Lead, Quickſilver, Cloth, Serges, Says and all kinds of Low-Countrey Commodities and Manufactures, which would be very marketable at Derbent, Scamachy and Ardobil and might produce good profit, ſo that all the Staple of Silk might be brought to Holland. and, That all Goods whatever might be more conveniently tranſported over the Caſpian Sea, and ſo up the Wolga, bringing it down to Archangel, and ſo for Holland: which would not prove ſo tedious by far, as to bring it over Land to Smyrna, where by the way ſo much Danger and ſo many Duties were met withall; and then from Smyrna to run the Hazard of the Barbary Corſairs thro the Mediterranean and the Spanish Sea: beſides unreaſonable Duties that are impoſed by the Turks, which probably the Czar of Moſcovia would not ſet ſo high, to draw a Traffic of ſuch importance thro his Juriſdiction, &c. That Gilan, Scirwan and other adjacent Provinces bordering upon the Caſpian Sea, could deliver upwards of 50000 Bales of Silk every year. Bocharen alſo affoards pretious Furrs and the Eaſt Countrey good plenty of Segrine-Leather, Saffron, Rhubarb and other precious Druggs.’ This was the ſum of all the Diſcourſe [Page] we had for that time, but not much hopes were then given me of gaining my Freedom, by aſſiſting them in a Trade to Europe.

A further Deſcription of the Caſpian Sea.The Caſpian Sea may more properly be termed a Lake, were it not that its Greatneſs and Saltneſs gave it the name of the latter, for it is environed on every ſide with the Main Continent, and receives 85 great Rivers (as has been ſaid before) which nevertheleſs do not make it ſwell any higher upon extraordinary Rains and Tempeſt, which the more confirms what I have already mentioned about the two famous Whirlpools. What concerns the Breadth and Greatneſs of the Caſpian Sea, as alſo its' Scituation, Bays, Rivers, Creeks, Iſlands, Towns and their diſtance of Bearing, they are ſufficiently noted in the Card hereto annexed, which I have with great diligence compoſed, partly by my own experience and partly by the help of ſome Armenian Marriners, who were well acquainted herewith. Its length which is reckoned from Wolga to Aſtrabath, North and South is computed to be 129 Leagues, and from Tarku to the River Jemla which is accounted the Breadth, being Eaſt and Weſt, is about 60 Leagues For 6, 7, 8 and 9 Leagues from the Coaſt, the Water is ſomtime freſh and ſomtime brakkiſh, and from 12 to 50 fathom Anchor ground, but the Sea is within freſh and out of ſounding. It is alſo called the Hyrcan and the Salt Sea. It has many Boughts, Inlets, Creeks and Angles: the Bay of Gilan tends above 38 Leagues inwards, taking its beginning at the Cape of Scabaran and reaches to Sengar Haſam. This Sea is environed moſtly on the Eaſt and North with a ſandy and barren ground, having alſo many Quarries of Marble and Alabaſtre. On the Eaſt ſide of this Sea is a Noble River, not much inferior to the Wolga, which river parts the Calmuc-from the Gwin-Tartars but the Countrey on each ſide being inhabited with a wild People, uſing among themſelvs no kind of Traffic, and therefore unſafe for others to adventure themſelvs. My Maſter Mahomet Sala once ſailing paſt the mouth of this River, I preſſed him hard to ſail up to view the Conveniency and take an account of the Quality of the Countrey. But he told me, he had a greater eſteem for his Life, Ship and Goods, than to ſatisfy my curioſity about a buſine [...] of ſo mean importance.

This Sea affoards great plenty of all kinds of Fiſh, and is farmed of the King of Perſia from April to September, for a vaſt ſum of Money [Page] and that for a certain Diſtance from the Coaſt which is ſet off with Stakes, within which bounds none are to fiſh upon pain of Death, but without every one has the permiſſion to fiſh; yet without Fiſh is very rare except in ſome litle Shoals here, and there, and thoſe only at ſome Seaſons, which are uncertain. After the Farm is expired it is alſo free within the Stakes for every one to fiſh. Here is an incredible plenty of Salmon, as alſo Carps, Breams, Sturgeon and other Fiſh, held with us in great eſteem, and thoſe in general both larger and fatter than thoſe taken on the Coaſt of Holland, or any other Sea or Water in Europe that I know. Carps when come to their full growth are ſometimes above 4 foot long, but thoſe are not ſo delicate as when they are leſs: Here alſo many ſtrange Fiſhes by us unknown, and I beleev moſt of them proper only to this Sea. Amongſt thoſe ſtrange kinds is one, which by reaſon of the diſproportion of his Head with his Body our Countreyment at Aſtrachan call, Dickkop [Thickpate] But by the Perſians, Nachay, that is, Devourer. This Fiſh is of a more than ordinary ſtrength and ſomtimes will overturn a ſmall Boat with a ſtroak of his Tail.

CHAP. XX. A Deſcription of Derbent: it's Walls. The Sultans Court. Very old Ruins. Divers Watch-towers. Multiplicity of Sepulchrets without Derbent. Their Slave-Market. The Author ſold again. His Patron married with a Polish Woman and runs into Danger of his Life. The Intention of his Patroneſs in running away from her Husband and taking the Author with her. Two of Mr. Struys's Companions come to Derbent. How they made their eſcape from the Tartars. The great Inclination of the Sultan of Derbent to the Hollanders. A Device put in practiſe to ſet one of the Authors Companions at Liberty The Prince takes the Wife of Brak for his own. Brak makes his eſcape.

DErbent the firſt City under the Juriſdiction of the King of Perſia on the Caſpian Sea,Deſcription of Derbent. lies in 41 degr. 50 min. northerly Latitude. This City lies longwiſe Eaſt and Weſt from the Sea ſide to the Land, and is according to computation about 2 [English] miles long. One ſide thereof lies ſo near to the Sea that the Waves [Page] beat againſt the Walls, and in a Storm or tempeſtuous Weather the Surges riſe over the Walls. This is alſo reckoned as a Barrier againſt the Irruption of the Tartars and other Savages, being the only place on all that Coaſt for many miles together, where they can come aſhoar, for the Shoar is there naturally ſecured with a ſteep Bank and wholly inacceſſible. Wherefore this City is not improperly called Derbent, which in their Language imports as much as The Kingdoms Key, Der ſignifying a Key, and Bent a Kingdom, or Countrey: and ſo the City Gammeron on the Indian Coaſt is called Bender, which is the ſame Word with tranſpoſition of the Syllables, and a little variation of the Dialect.

This Town is very ſtrongly munited with a Stone-Wall, and as ſome ſay, was built by Alexander the Great, who had here his Reſidence for ſom time, althô there doth not any Building remain of his, ſave only the Wall on the South ſide, and the Fortreſs: but all the Fortifications on the North were built by the famous Nauſchirwan, King of the Medes; having no other Foundation than a ſolid Rock. The Walls both on the North and the South ſide are ſo broad that Horſes and Waggons may ride all along, and the Stones are of a hard rock, brought hither from a Hill not far diſtant from the Town, being all equally 6 foot Square. On the Wall of Alexander [for it ſtill bears his name] is an oblong Stone having an ancient Inſcription in old Syriac and Arabic Characters, which none now a days can read.

Derbent how divided.The City Derbent is divided into 3 parts, The uppermoſt Ward or Quarter, ſtands on a riſing Ground and has a Fortreſs furniſhed with Braſs-Cannon; and at that time when I was there and ſince the Uproar of the Coſacs it has bin Strengthned with a Garriſon of 1000, or 1200 Soldiers, and in this Quarter is the Sultans Court. The Midle Ward is inhabited by Perſians, but the Buildings go moſtly to decay. The Loweſt Ward is about 2000 paces long, but this part is only tilled and uſed for Gardens; and as they ſay has been heretofore inhabited by Greeks, bearing ſtill the name of Schaher Iunan or, City of the Greeks.

Old Ruins about Derbent.Above Derbent appear the Ruins of a Wall which reached from thence to the Necropont, or Euxin Sea: which has been a work of an incredible Charge and Labour. In ſom places the ſaid Wall [Page] appears very plain, and is about four Foot thick. Round about this City are alſo divers ſtone Redoubts, whereof Four are furniſhed with Ammunition and a Garriſon of Soldiers ſuitable to the Occaſion of the Times. In the Countrey round about are alſo the Ruins of many ſtrong Caſtles, inſomuch that it plainly appears in what eſteem this Place has bin with the Median and Perſian Monarchs in times paſt.Walck Towers about Derbent. Not far from this City are alſo ſom Watch-towers of Wood, which are raiſed exceeding high ſo that they can with eaſe deſcry the approachment of an Enemy in time of War. On that ſide of the Town which faces the Countrey are many Sepulchrets, or Tombs, ſom of an oblong form, and others ſemicircular, being in breadth about a mans length and hollowed, ſo that a Man may eaſily ly in them. In this great Sepulchre was in times paſt a famous Battel fought, between Caſſan King of the Medes, and the Dageſtan Tartars, where the former had a notable overthrow, with the loſs of ſeveral Thouſand men, and the principal Heros and Leaders were buried in thoſe Tombs. Between this place and the Sea is alſo another Plat of Ground, environed with a high wall, wherein are 40 Tombs, under which are ſo many Perſian and Median Princes interred and made ſacred to Memory. Upon the Walls are ſeveral Flags pitched, and by each an old Man to beg an Alms of ſuch as out of Devotion and a Religious Zeal come to viſit this place, as it is throughout all Perſia held very meritorious to viſit the Sepulchres and Graves of the Deceaſed. This Superſtition beſides that of Bathing is all the Ceremonies and Rules which their Religion preſcribes the Women, who receiv their Directions and are injoined by their Parents and Husbands what to do, being ſecluded out of the Moſquees.

Within Derbent live no Chriſtians but altogether Mahometans, except a few Iews who boaſt themſelvs to be deſcended from the houſe of Benjamin: theſe commonly follow baſe and diſhonorable Traffic, as buying of Prize-goods and Booty taken at Sea, which the Dageſtan Tartars bring thither to market:Great market for Slaves. The reſt of the Inhabitants likewiſe trade in buying and ſelling of Slaves that being the main and almoſt only Merchandize they deal in, which they buy of the Dageſtan Plagiaries and ſend all over Perſia, making an incredible gain thereof. Thoſe that are brought hither for Slaves are very unhappy, for they are no more looked upon than an unreaſonable Animal or Bruit: and when [Page] they are about buying, they pull of their Cloaths and grope them all over as if it were a Swine or a Calf. Beſides their low eſteem they have for Slaves as to their Perſons they are very unkind and void of Mercy, ſo that were it not for the Loſs of ſo much money very few of thoſe wretched caitiffs would die a natural Death; Thoſe people being by nature very prone to Anger, and beſides that too jealous to live upon Earth, thinking that if a Slave do but ſmile or caſt a friendly look toward one of their Wives that ſomething extraordinary muſt be in the caſe; althô I had never reaſon to complain of my Patron for any ſuch thing: but one that lived in the neighbourhood was much addicted to that inquietude and reſtleſs humour. The bed where I lay was upon the Top of the houſe for coolneſs ſake, and could very well ſee into my neighbours Court, or Garden, where his Wives walked and played together being undreſt. The man ſaw me ſeveral times and I him; but he not knowing how to prevent it, went and told my Maſter that I hurled Stones among his Wives, which was not true, for conſidering what circumſtances I was under and ſenſible of the Condition of a Slave in thoſe Places, it had been a Token of the greateſt imprudence in the World to hazard my ſelf ſo far as to offend ſuch men who were both void of Reaſon and had my Life in their hands. My Maſter told him he did not beleev that I would do any ſuch thing, Well, replies the other, take your Slave away, or, I ſhall bring him down for you. Upon this my Patron warned me to take heed of looking down any more, not knowing what might come of it. I was very curious to know what courſe the Infidel would take in hand, to fetch me down, and accordingly went down to the old Place, where I ſaw ſeveral long Hand-guns ready levelled and cock'd, laying out at the Window, which made me in all haſt to turn about and out of the way, but was no ſooner turned before I heard him fire, althô it did not the miſchief he hoped and expected. The Inhabitants, as was ſaid before, are in this place ſomthing curriſh-natured, but the Perſians in general do not uſe their Slaves ſo unkindly, as the Turks, which I could well obſerv the time I was on the Galleys, nor yet ſo inhumanly as they do at Argiers, Tripoli, Tunis, Salee, and other maritim Towns in Barbary, according to the univerſal report given by thoſe that fall into the hand of theſe cruel Men; for here when they do uſe them ſo hard, it is more to make them renounce their Faith and become [Page] Mahometans, than innate Cruelty. Moſt proud they are and lofty, boaſting in their honorable deſcent and Pedigrees from their ancient Nobility, famous in Hiſtory, and renowned from the Monarchy of the Medes. The Soldiery, which they call Kiſsil-baſſchen, are very unruly, and take the leſt word that one can ſpeak for an affront, yea, ſuch is the aw they have gained of the People, that they dare not ſpeak without great reverence; ſure I am they have taught me ſilence, ſince they are accuſtomed to be the Interpreters of other Mens Words, and are as apt to miſconſtrue what is ſaid, whence conſequently they fall to blows.

On the 30th. of Iuly my Patron brought me again to Market,The Author ſold again. where he ſold me to one Hadzi Biram Ali, A very rich Merchant in Jewels. The ſame Hadzi Biram had 9 Wives, 5 at Derbent, and 4 at Scamachy. The Chief of theſe 9 was a Poliſh Gentlewoman by birth, and a Chriſtian, but her Father was an Amſterdammer, by name Iohn Fluſius, who had a Command of Horſe under Caſimire K. of Poland, and married there a Gentlewoman of that Countrey by whom he had 4 Children. Upon a time, when theſe People lived in the Countrey, it happened that the Tartars made an irruption into Poland, and among many others carried away my ſaid Patroneſſe, being then a Damoſel of 12 years old, and ſold her for a Slave. She was a Gentlewoman of a very fair complexion, and a well proportioned Body at that time, for which reaſon alone (I ſuppoſe) my Patron bought her and made her his Wife, promoting her ſhortly after above the reſt.

It was my Maſters cuſtom to bath himſelf once a day in the Sea,His Patron in danger of his Life. which the Inhabitants of thoſe Parts do account very wholſom, and his cuſtom was alwaies to take me with him to hold his Horſe till he had don. It happened that one time he went a litle farther in than was uſual, and lighting accidentally in a Whirl-pool he was forcibly overturn'd and not able to recover himſelf. I ſeeing him then immerge made all the haſt I could to get him out: and coming to the Place could not get a ſight of him for it was as I ſuppoſed in a Quickſand: but at laſt, by accident I felt his head with my Foot, which I endeavored to take hold of with my hand, and at laſt got him out, brought him to the Land and lay him over a Stone, till abundance of water came guſhing out of his Mouth, but no appearance of Life was left in him, when I thought he was rid of the moſt part of the Water, I [Page] ſet him upon the Horſe and got up my ſelf behind him, in the mean while he continued bleeding at the Noſe and Ears, and ſo weak that I had much ado to hold him upright upon the Horſe After he came home he was put to bed, which he kept for 14 days together before he recovered his Strength. It was no ſmall cauſe of Joy to me that things fell ſo well out, as that he lived to declare the true cauſe of this diſmal accident: whereas if he had died, 't would certainly have coſt me my Life, among thoſe bruitiſh, furious and unreaſonable People, eſpecially in conſideration of of the Condition I was in, not only a Stranger both to their Religion and Manners as well as their Countrey and Perſons, but likewiſe a Slave, for whoſe Death and Slaughter a man is no more accountable than for the ſlender Value and Market price; whilſt on the contrary it fell out that I got the Credit of ſaving his Life, and his Benevolence ever after for an act of ſuch merit, having run the jeopardy of my own Perſon. So much kindneſs he profeſſed for me, that he promiſed to take me with him to Iſpahan, where he ſaid he would beſtow me upon ſome of my own Nation.

This Motion liked me exceeding well, but my chief Patroneſs who ſpoke very good Low-dutch adviſed me to the Contrary, ſaying, My Husband, your Lord, 'tis true goes for Iſpahan, but from thence he intends to go on a Pilgrimage to Meccha, and beſtow 200000 Gil. on the Sepulchre of Mahomet, for which Gift he and his Son Hadzy Kan, will be canonized and regiſtred among the Saints, for a perpetual memory of themſelvs and Honor of their Poſterity, and now you are not ſenſible what Danger hangs over your head in regard of your Religion. This ſaid; ſhe told me if I would vow Silence ſhe would impart me a Secret, which perhaps would be of more importance than that, and without doubt I should judge it more worthy of Acceptance. I promiſed her I would not detect her Council, be what it would; but for accepting it deſired her not to injoyn me till I had heard and well conſidered of it. To this ſhe replies. See if you can prevail with your Patron to excuſe you on this Journey, or if you can counterfeit with Dexterity, feign your ſelf ſick: To which if he gives his aſſent, we will trip off together, after he has been a few weeks upon his Journey, and being you are well acquainted with the Caſpian Sea we, will take our Bark with us. I have means enough to Maintain us in any part of the World ſo long as we [Page]live, I have at preſent in my Cuſtody a Casket of Jewels worth 300000 gild at leſt, beſides a ſum of 10000 Ducats in Gold. I prethee then let's not loſe this opportunity but away with our own Bark; and I hope that we shall in 8 or 10 days be in Ruſſia, from whence we can go forward to Holland, and if your wife be not alive we shall marry, if not I shall ſeek up my Relations at Amſterdam, ſuppoſing my Fathers Brother may be ſtill alive. To this I replyed, Moſt gracious and worthy Madam, what you propoſe is very well, and what I could freely embrace and would willingly undertake to manage, But Madam, are you not ſenſible that Aſtrachan is at preſent under hands of the Coſacs, and the Caſpian Sea full of Pyrats, how then may we promiſe our ſelvs a ſafe Arrival in Ruſſia? Well, quoth ſhe, Do you think that Aſtrachan will be ſtill in tenure of the Rebells? no, without doubt, we shall ſpeedily hear that the Czar will come down with a great Army and deſtroy that Vermin. &c, Hereupon ſhe ſhowed me an incredible Treaſure of Diamonds, Emeralds, Rubies and other Precious Stones.

Theſe Propoſals I muſt confeſs gave me work enough to ſtudy upon day night, and certainly had not Aſtrachan then bin in the hand of the Coſacs I had taken it upon me, not doubting, but to have good ſucceſs, being able enough to pilot a Veſſel from thence to the Wolga, for I was very well acquainted with the Coaſts, but becauſe of the before mentioned difficuly was fain to refuſe her offer. I could obſerve that the Lady was ſom way diſaffected to her huſband, which I preſumed was ſom certain Jealouſy; for my Patron had bought not long before 2 Georgian Girls for Slaves, the one of 11, and the other of 12 years old, with whom he lay by Turns, which was no ſmall trouble to his Wife, who was her ſelf not above 26 years of Age, and therefore very unwilling to be a Widdow with a living husband.

On the 22 came two of our Ships-company to Derbent, to wit, Cornelius de Vries, the Gunner, and Peter Arentſz of Schevelingen. Theſe had been taken in Boynak, near the Scemkal, and had betaken themſelvs to flight, being followed by ſome Tartars to the Gate of Derbent; where they were reſcued by a Soldier, who ſpoke the Ruſsian Tongue very well, which Soldier ſeeing them ſo hotly purſued, and the Tartars cloſe at their heels, interpoſed himſelf between them, and asked ours, Who they were? who repled, They were [Page] Dutch, and had Letters for the Sultan. Whereupon the Soldier turning to the Tartars bade them ſee what they did, for that thoſe men had Letters for the Sultan: and ſo they got free from the Tartars, but were ſuddenly carried before the Sultan, who ſo ſoon as they were admitted asked them, What Countreymen they were? They anſwered Hollanders. Then he asked for the Letters which he was informed they had for him, upon which they fell down upon their knees humbly begging Forgiveneſs, ſaying, That we have ſaid, how that we had Letters for the Sultan, Great and Mighty Prince, we cannot deny, for moſt true it is; but that was only an Invention to ſecure and releaſe our Perſons from the Tartars, that purſued us to within the Perſian Juriſdiction: Wherefore, Great Sir, vouchſafe to have Compaſsion upon us, for we are thoſe very people that fled from Aſtrachan upon the approaching of the Coſacs, and have been unfortunately Stranded on the Dageſtan Coaſt, where we were plundered, beat and made Slaves by the Inhabitants, and ſince continued in miſerable Servitude under the Scemkal, and therefore have made bold to ſeek Protection under your Highneſs. They told him moreover how that they had been 3 days and 2 nights by the Way; Travelling only by night and hiding themſelvs by day, leſt they ſhould be detected, and retaken, as they had ſurely been at the Gate, if the Soldier had not ſhown them ſuch a a Favour. The Sultan freely pardoned them and ſent them to a Houſe where he had ordered they ſhould have abode and maintenance, till they were otherwiſe provided; for this Prince, has ever been favourable to our Nation. But theſe two fearing that their Living ſo would coſt them too dear, and that one time or another they muſt pay for all, they removed into a Carwanſera, for ſo they call an Inn or Tavern, where they took no care for Diet, being well ſupplied by the continual concourſe of people that came thither, as well Indians as Perſians. The Sultan alſo promiſed to write to the King about the Redemption of the reſt of the Captiv Slaves, and as much as in him lay to further the ſame. Certain it is he did as kindly for our Countrey men as might be expected from him, when as the Brother of the Scemkal came to demand them as Fugitivs, and he refuſed to let them go, for that they were now in Derbent, and that the King had underſtood how unkindly they had dealt with thoſe that were his Allies, and with thoſe with [Page] whom his Subjects had a great correſpondence, as to matter of Commerce: Inſomuch that Aly, the Tartar, returned without obtaining what he came for, and the Slaves they had ſtill were for this reaſon more ſeverely uſed than before, and kept with more ſtrictneſs, ſince by that they were ſenſible, that if they could but make their eſcape to Derbent they were protected.

So ſoon as I underſtood that P. Arents and De Vries were arrived at Derbent I pray'd my Patron to let me go to viſit them, which he granted. So ſoon as I came to them, I begun to enquire of their manner of Eſcaping, and of their preſent Condidition, which they related from the beginning to the end of all. My Patron was alſo curious to ſee them and came himſelf in perſon: Upon which I did bethink my ſelf of a Stratagem to redeem my Companion Els Pieterſz, who was ſtill at Boynak. I told my Maſter then that I had ſtill a Son in the Hands of Prince Oſmin, and looking towards the Gunner I gave him a wink with the Eie, that he ſhould aſſert it, which when my Patron asked him he did: he therefore ſent to redeem him with intention to keep us both, but the Party ſent, who was a Ruſsian and a Renegado, brought us news that he was gone within Land, which ſadly troubled me: For, had I got him to Derbent I could have brought him to Iſpahan where there was more apparency and likelyhood of obtaining Liberty than among the obſcure Tartars.

Meanwhile I went dayly to viſit the Gunner and Peter Arentſz, and once finding them very heartleſs and Melancholic I did all I could to comfort them. How, ſaid I, can you be ſo ſad being free, and I who am a Slave ſtill keep a good heart? Be not ſo dejected, for the Perſians will ſom time or other take you with their Caravans to Iſpahan, and ſo you may get to Gameron, and thence be tranſported for the Indies, by which means you will be brought home, &c. They told me alſo that the reſt of the Company were at liberty and without Chains, that they had alſo reſolved to flee together, but judged themſelvs aſwell unſafe at Derbent, which they had intended for their Aſylum, ſaying, That they ſhould come thither ſoon enough, when they ſhould be ſold at the Slave-Market; and certainly they were not much over-burthened, for the greateſt Task they had was only to hew wood for Fewel and other uſes in the Princes Houſe: and if my companion [Page] and I had but had the ſame opportunity they had to be unchain'd we ſhould not have dallied long about a Reſolution, whether to ſtay or betake our ſelvs to flight, for it was not above 12 [English[ miles from Derbent. We often contrived to break or file the Chain in ſunder, but the Links were ſo maſſy that we durſt not attempt leſt we ſhould not perform it at one time. They were alſo taken by the Dageſtan-Tartars, which are reputed the more mercifull, but we by the Calmucs, the one being under the Oſmin and the other under the Scemkal. C. Brak was ſold by the Scemkal for thrée years, after the expiration of which time his Patron was to have him again: His Wife whom the Prince had raviſhed, was alſo taken from him and made uſe by the ſaid Prince for a Concubine, being attired in Princely Habit, and had much favour ſhown her. Brak therefore intending to make his eſcape, intimated his Deſign to his Wife; who would by no means aſſent to the matter, becauſe of her Child, and told him further that if he did offer to go that ſhe would detect the matter to the Prince. To this he replied, that inaſmuch as ſhe was taken from him they were never like to come together again, and that he probably for that reaſon ſhould be carried farther within Land, where he ſhould be out of all hopes of ever being redeemed; whereas on the contrary if ever he came to Derbent that there he ſhould not only himſelf be free, but alſo ſeek a mean to get her redeemed, yet all this was but in vain, for ſhe would not hear of it; inſomuch that he was fain to run away without her knowledge; but what then became of him, and whether he was retaken by ſome others, or is dead, I could never yet be ſo happy as to know. As to his Flight, we were well aſſured, for his Patron ſent to us at Derbent to enquire after him, but had a very unwelcom Anſwer: and the Sultan, to hearing that ſuch a Perſon was come to ſeek for them, gave order to apprehend him, and ſo continued him Captiv till he proved that he only came to ſeek one that he had bought for ready Money, and was not of Intention to meddle with any body elſe; upon which the Sultan, ordered him enlargement.

CHAP. XXI. The great difficulty of getting Wood without Derbent. The Author and his company aſſailed by Robbers two ſeveral times. The kind nature of his Patron. They travel to Scamachy. The Hill Barmach. The Pit of Naphtha. Arrival at Scamachy. A Deſcription of that City. A great Earth-quake at Scamachy. Abundance of men misfortunatly killed. The Author meets with 2 Franciſcan Friars: A rehearſal of ſome part of their Diſcourſe: their Zeal to get him out of the Service of a Mahometan. Advice given him by his Patron. He comes firſt into the Service of the Polish Ambaſſadour.

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ON the 29 were ſent out about 50 Slaves together with ſome other free perſons to hew Wood in the Countrey, amongſt which my Patron ſent me alſo. We took our way over the Mountains, having with us two Carts, with 5 Oxen, 2 Aſſes and a Horſe, we had alſo ſeveral Renegados with us. All the Company went into the Wood, and fell to work leaving me alone to look to the Carts and Proviſion. After they had been about 3 hours at work, I eſpied a Troop of about 300 Men coming towards us, and thinking by the haſt they made towards us, that they were Robbers, I therefore called out to them in the Wood, to give them Notice that they might keep together. When I ſaw them come within Bow-ſhot of me I ran away as faſt as I could drive, which they ſeeing me, ſent a Shaft or two, but they did not hit me. Having entred the Wood I met our Company coming out who at firſt ſtoutly reſiſted, but finding that the Robbers fell on with a greater violence, and exceeded us both for Arms and Number of Men, they thought good to retreat with as much haſt as they could. We left here 12 dead, amongſt which was a Polish Renegado; beſides theſe that were killed we had 20 wounded, and loſt all our Baggage, with Carts, Oxen, Aſſes, &c. and were fain to return ſo home. For this reaſon is it very perillous to hew wood or to paſs thoſe mountains upon any other Occaſion, being the Rendevouz of the Banditti and Tartars, who notwithſtanding all the Indeavours which the King doth, by ſending of Troops down to expell them, cannot be driven out, for [Page] when they perceiv that any Forces are ſent out againſt them, they run into Caves and holes in the Hills and Woods: They are alſo very well diſciplin'd and as well arm'd, the greateſt part thereof conſiſting in deſerting Soldiers. And by reaſon thoſe of Derbent muſt have all their Fewel and Timber from this Place, and the work put upon the Slaves, it happens that every year a great number of thoſe miſerable ſort of men are either diſpatched or wounded.

The next day I was ſent up into the Countrey to a place where my Patron kept his Cattle, which I was to look after and drive them up and down where I found the beſt Paſturage.The Author taken and carried away by Robbers. When the Sun was gon down and I driving the Cattle to their Houſe, I met 3 Robbers, who took three Cows away with them, and tied my hands behind my back, ſo drawing me along; yet it was not long before we met with 8 Gentlemen of Derbent, ſom whereof knew me, being frequently at my Maſters houſe. Theſe therefore releaſed me and retook the Beaſts, ſo that I came ſafe home: for which kindneſs my Maſter gave them a Preſent, I ſuppoſe, of more value than what I was ſold for to him. Unſpeakable was the kindneſs of my Patron that he had for me, for althô my Work was a litle ſervile and Slaviſh, yet my Bed and Table was Lordly; and whatſoever I did whether well or ill, he always took it in good part, and would after that time, never ſuffer me to go abroad to do any work, ſaying, that he beleeved that I was born under ſom malevolent Planet. To be brief I found my daily Taſk ſo eaſy, and my uſage ſo comfortable, that were it not for the name of a Slave and that to a Mahometan, I could not have lived better abroad in any Place of the World, having litle or no care upon my head.

Their Iourney to Scamachy.About this time my Patron made preparation to take a Journey for Scamachy, there to repair his Houſes which were thrown down with an Earth-quake in the year 1667. On the firſt of September we were ready and ſet forward with a Caravan of 1800 Horſes, and a great number of Camels, Dromedaries, Aſſes and other Beaſts of Carriage, having in Company ſeveral Thouſands of Men. The firſt day we paſſed over three Rivers, to wit Kurgani, Koſtar, and Sambur; whereof the ſecond is the greateſt, running thrô the Mountains of Elbur. This River divides it ſelf into 5 branches, or arms, broad but ſhallow, and runs over a ſtony Ground. The next day [Page] we travailed 8 [Dutch] miles further and came to Koctep a large village, where we took our reſt for that night.SEPT. 1670. By the way we ſaw a goodly Tomb erected to the memory of a Perſian Saint, The Inhabitants of this Town and the Countrey about it are called Padar in their Language. They are much addicted to ſtealth and Robbery, ſo that we were fain to keep a narrow watch over them the time we lay in the Town, which was not above 8 hours. Their Houſes are but little, built ſquare and covered on the Top with Earth, not exceeding 6 or 7 foot high above ground, but are as deep below, as they are high.

On the 3 of the ſame moneth we ſet forward and travailed through many great villages, amongſt which was a very fair one called Niſabath, or Nayſabath, which I gueſs lies about 41 degr. and a quart. It is ſeated in a very pleaſant Countrey of Old Media, now called Surwan, or Schirwan. This is the Place where ſom time agon the Holſteyn Ambaſſadours ſuffered Shipwrack. At night we ſet down at Muſkar, being a Town without Walls, or any other Fortification but ſeems to have bin in times paſt a place of truſt, as well from its Situation, as the Ruins of the Walls and Bulwarks which yet appear. By the way we ſaw abundance of Robbers in the Woods, but they knowing us to be too ſtrong would not adventure the Attempt.

On the 4 we broke up, and that day came to Scabaran a little City, where the whiteſt and beſt Rice in all Perſia is brought to market, and grows in the Countrey round about. It is alſo in ſuch plenty that the Hundred weight is ſold for 13 Ochbas, [being about 4 Shil. 2 Pence Sterl. or a halfpenny per Pound.] The Walls of this City are now demoliſhed ſo that it is no more than an open village. The only Remarkable I found here was the Ruins of the Ovens, wherein they averr Alexander the Great had Bread baked for his Army.

On the 5th. we came to the mountain Par— or Barmach, which lies cloſe to the Sea, and is very famous for it's many veins of Which is alſo called Median Oil & Babiloniſh Bitumen, of the nature of Marl, which when once ſet on fire, will burn more vigorouſly if water be poured upon it, but is quenched with Earth, Duſt, or any other thing that is dry. This oil is very good to preſerv any mettal from Ruſt; and as Ammianus ſaith, the Perſians were went to anoint their ſhafts therewith. Naphte. The word Barmach is an Appellativ word and betokens in their Language a Finger, ſo called from it's ſimilitude to a Finger pointing out. Above at Top it is very cold, and has ſnow on the North ſide all the year long: at top there grows ſom graſs but not much, and [Page] that all hung with Iceicles. On this Hill appear the Ruins of ſom Watch-Towers, and below have been ſeveral Fortlets to check the Tartars, and ſecure the Medians from the Invaſion of the Scythian Robbers. Amidſt thoſe Ruins, is a huge deep Pit digged and laid in with ſtone. Naphta, otherwiſe called Petroleum or Perhaps from the Greek words [...] Oil, & [...] a Rock. Petrelaeum is an Oil coming naturally out of the veins of the Rock, which veins do run thro the whole ſtones, as in Marble. There are 40 Pits digged as Receptacles to hold the ſaid Oil, being convey'd thither by ſeveral Pipes, or Conduits; But there are three of thoſe whence it naturally flows or ſprings, where you may ſee it buble up like boiling pitch. Of this Oil there be two ſorts; the one tending to a brown or black, which has a very ſtrong ſmell, but the other which is white is of a lovely ſmell when freſh, and held in far more eſteem than the other.

On the 6 dito we ſet forward again, and went over very high Hills, coming at night to Bachal a village ſeated in a low but fruitfull Valley. Here grows much Rice, and that very good, it being a marſhy Ground, where that Grain likes beſt; Barley alſo grows there in good plenty. The Inhabitants have an excellent way of making Cakes, the main ſtuff thereof being Honey and Oil: whereof for the rareneſs and novelties ſake my Maſter bought certain to uſe on our Journey.

On the 7 dito we left Bachal, and after a good Days Journey came into Cothany, which is a very pleaſant Place: and here we took up our Lodging. This Village lies in a low Valley which is full of Woods of Haſles and other ſmall Trees, in which Woods are the greateſt plenty of Hares that ever I have ſeen in all my Life.

On the 8 dito we arrived at the famous Scamachy, called alſo Sumahi, and Samachy. It is a very famous Mart, and lies in 40 degr. 30 min. In the Province of Schirwan, or Media. It is handſomly ſeated in a Vally, ſo that one cannot ſee it till he be within Cannon Shot of the Town. The diſtance between Derbent and Scamachy is computed a Weeks Journey, excluding Sunday, to wit, following the Highway which is crooked and Winding, for by reaſon of Hills and Rivers they are fain to travel far about, or otherwiſe one might go it in 2 days: there is alſo another way which Paſſengers take when they go not with the Caravan; the Caravan would alſo go that way, [Page] but the Tolls about the Mountains of Lahatz are very great, and oftentimes long a clearing, ſo that they rather chuſe to go the other way. In former times this was a Town of ſome conſideration as to matter of ſtrength; but in the Wars of Abas, the Scach, or King of Perſia againſt the Turks, it was by him diſmantled and made an open village, which was ever by him a Maxim of Military Policy, by reaſon the Turks were wont to retire into fortified Places under pretext of Refuge, and after a few Moneths proving ſtrong and numerous would ſurrender up the Town to their own Nation in time of War, or upon an Uproar:Scamachy deſcribed. ſo that all the Walls toward the South were demoliſhed and only thoſe on the North-ſide left ſtanding, which will not much avail upon ſuch ſudden Occaſions.

The Northern Quarter is far leſs than the Southern, and the Mote ſo ſhallow together with the mean condition of the Walls, that one may enter in as they pleaſe in many Places, notwithſtanding their due ſhutting of the Gates, that are in number 5. The Streets are all thrô the Town very narrow and the Buildings low, made up of Clay, Planks and Twigs daubed over. In the South-quarter is a ſpacious Market-place which they call a Bogan, having round about it ſeveral rich Shops in Galleries and Piazzas, wherein are ſeen many rich Merchandizes and Manufactories, as Silks, Cot [...]ons, Furrs, Cloth of Gold and Silver, Tapeſtry, &c. Near this place are alſo two great Warehouſes having ſeveral Portics or Alleys, where all Merchants-ſtrangers buy and ſell ſeveral ſorts of Merchandizes. The one of theſe is called Scach Carwanſera, or, the Emperours Lodgings, whither Ruſsians for the moſt part have recourſe, and barter their Tin, Copper, Sables and other Commodities: the other is called Leſgi Carwanſera, i. e. The Tartars Lodgings; and hither repair moſtly the Dageſtan and other Tartars, whoſe Trade conſiſts chiefly in Men and Children, ſtole either from their own Nation or the Ruſsians, as alſo in Horſes: hither alſo repair many Jews who deal moſtly in Bedding and Cottons. This Town upon my arrival there was altogether new built, althô about 3 years before it lay on heaps. This place is very ſubject to Earth quakes and in the ſpace of one year were 3 great ones, but that in the year 1667 was the greateſt that has been known or heard of in any Age. It continued for the ſpace of 3 moneths, but not with that terror and [Page]

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[Page] [Page] Ambaſſadour to buy me of my Patron. This gave a delicate ſound in my Ear, being the only thing I deſired to hear of; and coming home began to ſupplicate my Maſter that he would vouchſafe to ſell me into the Hands of the Poliſh Ambaſſadour, at which he ſeem'd to be a litle altered, and ſaid, John, conſider with your ſelf the nature of your requeſt: have you found ſuch hard uſage the time you have been with me? Why then would you go from me? Go rather with me to Iſpahan, where, ſince you have once ſaved my life and in all things elſe proved faithfull, I will beſtow you upon ſom of your own Nation without Redemption Money: or any thing elſe in ſtead of you, where you ſhall be aſſuredly free. But I ſtill remembred the words of my Patroneſs Altine, and had no great ſtomach to go for Iſpahan with him: However with many thanks declined his Offer, praying him rather if he had the Kindneſs for me he profeſſed, that he would pleaſe to let me have my requeſt herein; for I longed mainly to be among Chriſtians. Well, ſaid he, ſince you will go, you ſhall, but be aſsured you ſhall not find better uſage than you have here, althô it were with a Chriſtian, [forſooth]. As for this Bochdan the Poliſh Miniſter, he is not ſo good a Chriſtian as you think, but a light vain Georgian, whom the King of Poland has diſpatched to the Sophy, to treat about a War with the Turks, but ſuch is his deportment here, and remiſsneſs in the Affairs of the King his Maſter, that he will in all probability be called in queſtion about it. All this did not a whit daunt me from my Reſolution, for I gave him a certain allowance as to the Character he had given him; or, althô he had been ſuch a Perſon there was more hopes of my coming home thrô Moſcovia, ſooner than thrô India, and ſo from Batavia. This Bochdan as I have been ſince informed had formerly a Command of Horſe under the King of Poland, and was ſo well acquainted with the Humor of the King, that he was imploy'd on this Ambaſſage, but much envy'd by the Polanders. The next day I was ſold and delivered up to the Ambaſſador for 150 Abas, being the ſum Hadſy Biram had paid for me to the Prince. Upon my taking leav of my Maſter, he wiſhed me happineſs, and withone told me that he was ſenſible the King of Poland had Money enough to redeem a Chriſtian, otherwiſe he would have taken nothing for me.

And now was none more happy than my ſelf in imagination, not thinking otherwiſe than ſuddenly to have my Freedom. On the 1 of November I was ſent for by the Ambaſſadour, where being [Page] introduced into the Parlor, he ſpeedily bad me ſit down, and fell to aſking many Queſtions about my Nation, and my coming to be a Slave. I told him all from the Beginning to the End. He then called for a Bowl of Wine, and bade me drink. Whilſt I ſat there, were two young Georgian Girls brought to the Door, who being ſtole by the Dageſtan Tartars, of handſom Bodies, and tolerable Beauties as alſo the Ambaſſadours own Countrey Women he had compaſſion of them and bought them for the value of 100 Crowns. Theſe he kept for Warming Pans, and would upon Occaſion, when he made any Feaſt, cauſe them to dance: nor did they much ſeem to be concern'd at the loſs of thoſe heavy burthens called Maidenheads, althô the Art is to know where they firſt got rid of'em.

CHAP. XXII. The Hatred and Churliſhneſs of the Ambaſſadour againſt the Poliſh Gentry. A Poliſh Gentleman murthered in his bed. The pitiful caſe and condition of the Polanders, who were in the Retinue of the Legate. The Ambaſſadours Greedineſs. He indeavours to turn Mahometan, The Authors intention to make his eſcape. Captain Butler and others of his old acquaintance come to Scamachi, where they do what they can for the Captivs. The Ambaſſadors Brother goes for Iſpahan, where he deſires to be admitted as a Mahometan; but is not received, William the Maſters Mate of the Ship Eagle comes to Scamachi. A great Earth-quake. Conſecration of Water among the Armenian Chriſtians. A great concourſe of People, and remarkable Ceremonies.

ON the 2 of November came the Siſter of the Ambaſſador, and his Brother with a great Retinue and Pomp: their Reception was with an Extravagant Banquet, which dured ſeveral days. So long as this Junketting laſted, was ſuch Gluttony, Drunkneſs and Prodigality, yea ſuch beaſtlineſs ſhown, that I almoſt abhorred the name of a Chriſtian, when on the other ſide I ſaw the Mahometans point at them, who are themſelvs very abſtemious and temperate. Yet this only was to gratify the Georgians and Perſians, for he demeaned himſelf very churliſhly towards the Poliſh Gentry who were ſent to grace his Perſon as a Retinue. Scarce were they ever admitted into his preſence, and beſides that pinched in their allowance [Page] as well in Diet as Habit,NOV. 1670. and at laſt having ſpent the Money they brought with them out of Poland, were reduced to ſuch poverty, that they went up and down like Beggars, being aſhamed to com into honeſt Company? for beſides their coſtly Attire which he always kept locked up, he would not allow them a ſufficiency of Linnen to keep them clean. If any offered to complain he threatned to ſell them for Slaves, which tended to the great detriment of thoſe his Domeſtics, and Diſhonour of the King and Crown of Poland. This bred in the Poliſh Gentry ſuch diſsaffection that they reſolved oftentimes to have revenge; but as thoſe who know themſelvs conſcious of ſuch ill demeanor are ever in fear of their Perſons, ſo he who knew himſelf guilty of ſuch wicked doings, had always a certain number of his own Nation to ſecure and guard him. However they once finding opportunity, and being already com to the very Cataſtroph of Patience, began to hew him with their Scymiters and Axes, as he ſhould go out of his Dining-Room,The Ambaſſador hacked almoſt to death. where they chopt and mangled him ſo that he lay for dead upon the Floor, in the Portic, having received 17 grievous Wounds, and loſt three Fingers of his Right hand: yet by the great diligence and ſkill of his Chirurgeon who was then at hand, he was reſtored to his former Health and Sanity. This outrage as it could not but ingender bad blood, ſo it rendred the Ambaſſadour much more deſpightfull than before, and that very night to be revenged, ſent a Georgian Soldier to Paniegros, a Poliſh Gentleman, who was as Aſſiſtent in this Ambaſſage, and equally impowered to treat with the Miniſters of State at the Perſian Court, and therefore reckoned by the other as an obſtruction in the Promotion of his Intereſt, as well as his being ready to repreſent the Occaſion of theſe Tumults to the King, in ſuch manner as might tend to his diſadvantage: yet it ought to be underſtood of this Gentleman, that he neither gave incouragement, nor knew any thing of that extravagant Action.Panicgros, [...] Poliſh Gentleman murthered on his bed. The Georgian having obtained entrance, ran to his Bed-ſide and there moſt inhumanly murthered him whilſt aſleep. This Paniegros was a Gentleman of a brave conduct, and withall of a meek temper, having purchaſed the Love even of thoſe that ſeemed to be his Lot-enemies for his prudent and civil deportment, He had lived for ſom years together at Amſterdam, and ſpoke very good Nether-dutch. The reſt of the Poliſh Nation, [Page] were taken and ſecured, ſom whereof were faſt in Chains. Nor with this did the Ambaſſador hold up, but dayly revenged himſelf of the Poles, The Prince of Scamachi makes peace. which he uſed as Slaves; and the more to over aw them liſted ſeveral Georgians-Soldiers to guard his Body. The Prince of Scamachy now ſenſible of the Differences and ſad diſorder of affairs, took upon himſelf the Office of a Mediator and adjouſted the matter ſo well, that the impriſoned Parties were ſet again at liberty: yet were no better uſed than before as to their Suſ-and Maintenance, whereas one Man might eaſily eat the Allowance he gave for 8. He on the Contrary continued a Junketting with thoſe of his own Nation, that an Ox a day would not have been too much, if it were not for varietie and change of Diet. He bought 13 Kine which he ſent out into the Field, and ſet me to look after them, but finding my ſelf at a loſs for Victuals, I aſſumed the liberty to tell his Excellency that he muſt pleaſe to ſend me ſomthing to eat in the Field. His anſwer was: If you will have any thing, ſteal a cow from the Perſians, and help your ſelf ſo. But that Commiſſion I took occaſion to let alone, being ſenſible that my maſters Order would not excuſe me. Thus I ſuffered more hunger than in all my life, and ſore againſt my will intimated the matter to my former Patron Hadſi Biram, who gave me this reply, I told you of it before-hand, what a villain that Georgian is, That he was but a Chriſtian in ſhow, and far too baſe to be a Muſulman. And certainly the Gentleman had good reaſon on his ſide: for this Ambaſſadour well knowing what Beer was brewed for him at the Court in Warſaw, diſpatches his Brother to the King at Iſpahan, to ſupplicate that they might both be circumciſed, pretending that now knowing better things than he had hitherto don, therefore could not have Peace or Reſt in Conſcience, but continual Horror and Inquietude, if he were not admitted as a member in Mahometaniſm. But they had ſuch ample and clear Information at Court of his Life and Behaviour; that they eaſily perceiv'd upon what account he did it, and conſequently declined his Requeſt. Shortly after he alſo received a Mandate from Iſpahan to depart immediatly for Poland, which was acceptable news for the Poliſh Gentry, hoping at once to be rid of that Slavery and Miſery they ſuffered. After my old Patron had diſcourſed me a litle about this affair, took his leav of me, ſaying, John, I am very ſorry for your condition, pre'thee therefore com twice [Page]a day to my houſe and eat, or at what time you are hungry. I ſhall give my wife order, upon my Abſence to give you Victuals. The ſweeteſt muſic, I muſt confeſs, I heard in Perſia; and certainly he who was a Mahometan, ſurpaſſed my Georgian Maſter far in Charity, who had rather feed Doggs he kept for his pleaſure, than Chriſtian-ſtrangers, althô his own Domeſtics.

'Tis true this Offer was very acceptable, but all my fear was, that Hadſi would not tarry long at Scamachy, ſo that I ſhould again be at a loſs, and therefore I determined with my ſelf to run away; as then I met with an opportunity to go for Smyrna with a great Caravan, which was a preparing and almoſt ready to ſet forward. I had already beſpoke my ſelf to go with an Armenian who was to ſet forward 6 days before the general Departure with the great Caravan, but what reaſon I met with to the contrary ſhall be ſhortly told.

Novemb. 4. I went out of the Town to ſee if I could ſpeak with an Ambaſſadour who was diſpatched from Iſpahan to Moſcou, and to requeſt of him to repreſent our Condition to the Czar, but I could not get to ſpeech of him. He had with him 4 Tygres and Leopards for a preſent to the Great Duke.

On the 11 to my great Aſtoniſhment and Joy I ſaw our Captain Butler, together with Cornelius the Gunner, J. van Termund, Chriſtian Brand, Lewis Fabritius and Peter Arentſz coming into Scamachy; upon which in all haſt I ran to bid them welcom and ſalute them, althô the Captain ſhowed himſelf much diſpleaſed at us, for that we (as he alleadged) went away without his leav and order, and not waiting for him: to which I replied, Captain you cannot forget what your Order was, That we ſhould not ſtay ſo much as a quarter of an hour for any one, after the Gates were ſhut, but if any transgreſsion of your Order muſt be imputed to us, it muſt be this that we ſtay'd till midnight for you, and not hearing any thing of you, we concluded that you were either killed in the Tumult, or had made your eſcape ſom other way; we then not holding it ſafe for us to make any longer delay, thought it more prudence to put off than to ſtay till it was day light, &c. With theſe and other reaſons I gave him he ſeemed to be ſatisfied, and promiſed to do all that lay in his power to procure our Redemption, as from that time forward he laboured very much to do. And this was the reaſon, that my intended Journey for Smyrna, was not undertaken thinking this to be a more hopefull [Page] and a more ſecure way to get free: for this happened juſt the ſame day I had purpoſed to ſet forward with the Armenian, and ſo after 2 or 3 days Journey to wait for the great Caravan. Our Captain applies himſelf to the Chan of Scamachy to intercede for the Captivs, but all he could do might not avail, for there was no Audience lent him, It ſeemed as if the Sultan of Derbent had hardned his temper, for in preſence of the Dutch and others that had taken the Mediation upon them; whereas on the contrary they had ever been good Friends with the Calmuc & Oſmin, frequently ſending and receiving mutual Preſents from each other.

When the Captain ſaw there was no hopes to procure our Redemption at Scamachy, he purpoſes to go for Iſpahan, and addreſs himſelf to the King; the more for that the Commiſſioners of the Eaſt India Company might aſſiſt him. He therefore took up ſeveral Abas of an Armenian, for which he muſt have pay'd 25 per Cent more at Iſpahan: he left I. van Termund at Scamachy for ſecurity.

On the 18 Chriſtian Brand by the interceſſion of I. van Termund, was taken to board in the Poliſh Ambaſſadors Houſe, giving good ſecurity for the ſame at Scamachy.

Mean while the Brother of the ſaid Ambaſſador went a ſecond time to Court, for to get the conſent of the Scach in changing of his Religion, but the reſult was as unwelcom to him as the former, with an expreſs order to depart immediatly for Poland, and to give a reaſon of his delay. This news as it was very unacceptable to him, for that he was ſenſible how affairs would be repreſented at Warſaw, there being a Courier diſpatched off from the Scach to the K. of Poland; ſo was it alſo very welcom and acceptable news for the oppreſſed Gentlemen in his Retinue. Nor did this outwardly appear at the Perſian Court, for upon ſuch occaſions they never acquaint any Forreign Miniſter with any dislike, but intimate it by their own at the Court from whence they are ſent in ſuch Quality, whence they expect Satisfaction. This when Bochdan underſtood he ſtudied all means to avoid going back to Warſaw, and aſked me if I thought that the Eaſt India Company, or their Directors there, would conſent to let him imbarque there for Holland? My reply was that I did not beleev it would be granted, and told him ſeveral Praecedents for it, as alſo the improbability of the thing ſince their Intereſt was ſo [Page] great in Commerce with Perſia; as that they would not do any thing to quit it: However if he would go clandeſtinly and occaſion a Rumor as if he were gone for Moſcou, or ſom where in Tartary, he might imbarque himſelf as a privat Perſon. This I ſaid in hopes to come that way home my ſelf. Yet he was various in his Intentions, ſomtimes taking a reſolution to go for Smyrna, and ſomtimes for Conſtantinople, or elſewhere. However during the time he was at Scamachy, he Lorded it ſo bravely, that the Chan durſt not check him in any extravagancy he committed: for it ſeems that the ſaid Chan had taken up a conſiderable Sum of the Ambaſſador upon Intereſt and not being able to pay was fain to reſt contented. But the Ambaſſador willing to get in his Money and the Chan not in a Capacity to pay it upon demand, the Ambaſſador ſent his Brother to Iſpahan to make complaint to the Schach, which when the Chan had underſtood, ſent a Poſt after him, who intreated him to return back, upon promiſe of Payment, and full Solution both of Stock and Intereſt.

On the 21 came a Perſian to Scamachy with William Barentſz Klopper our Chief-Mate, who had been taken by the Tartars and ſeverely uſed all the time. The ſaid Perſian offered him to the Poliſh Ambaſſador who on the 30th. bought him. The Scemkal had firſt ſold him to a Perſian of Bachu for 150 Abas. This new Patron ſet him to keep Cattle, in a Paſture, between Derbent and Scamachy, where upon our Journey to Scamachy I ſaw, but knew him not. He had a very churliſh fellow to his Patron, and therefore attempting ſeveral times to run away was ſtill caught again, and beat moſt ſeverely: and now being redeemed came unexpectedly out of the Frying Pan into the Fire.

Upon the firſt day of January 1671, on which day we uſually in our own Countrey wiſh one another Happineſs: we were aware of a mighty and moſt dreadfull Earth-quake, which had in a moment laid ſome hundreds of Houſes in Rubbiſh; moſt terrible was it to ſee ſo many Souls ſwallowed up in the Earth alive and as lamentable to ſee ſome cruſh'd to pieces and others half dead, ſome ſo faſt cloſed up between Walls that they could not be got out. And others wanting their Legs; Arms and other Members, nor was there any but ſuſtained ſome loſs one way or other. When it ceaſed every one hoped that all was done, but the next day at night the Earth [Page] began again to tremble and ſhake, inſomuch that all was in a conſternation, but none ſuſtained any conſiderable loſs that I could hear of.

Ceremonies uſed by the Chriſtians in Conſecration of Water.Upon the 6 dito, it froſe very hard inſomuch that the River was to. Upon this were the Ceremonies of the Conſecration of Water ſolemnized by the Armenian Chriſtians, in preſence of the Chan, his Son, our Ambaſſador, the Poſlanick, or an Armenian Courier, who was diſpatched for Moſcou, and then at Scamachy, all the Perſian Nobility and Armenian Chriſtians from all Villages round about, and from afar in the Countrey, who came with Croſſes, Flags and Bells, ſinging Hymns all the way till they came over the Puley Ambery (a Bridge ſo called) where they ſate down. On the morning very early the Biſhop came out with great Pomp and ſung Maſs, after which an Oration was made ſuiting the Day, being Epiphany, which he performed with great Zeal and Pains. After that was a Feaſt which they call Chalſe Schuran, or Dipping of the Croſs.

Theſe Ceremonies were performed as follows: On each ſide the River were placed the Chans Guards, and all the Soldiery, to prevent any Tumult or abuſe of the Armenians, who pay dear enough for the ſame. After the Chan had taken his place in a Tent expreſſly provided for that Prince, and the Watch ſet in good order, the Biſhop went to beg permiſſion, before which obtained he dare not begin. So ſoon as the Token was given, ſome of the Armenians ran naked into the Water, and cut up the Ice with Bills; the Biſhop all the while continues reading and the Common people ſing. After this they begin to play upon Bels and Cymbals, then the Biſhop ſtepping ſoftly to the River ſide, pours in Oyl and Water. Then he took a litle Silver Croſs, ſet with Diamonds and other precious Stones, which he dipt 3 times in the Water. This done he took a ſtaff [or Croſier] and ſtretched it ſeveral ways over the River, pronouncing ſeveral Benedictions. Immediately upon this all the People ran together, and ſtrove who ſhould be firſt at the River to drink and waſh their Faces. This was obſervantly don of all ſorts of People, young and old, Men and Women. Laſt of all ſeveral youths uncloathed themſelvs, jumped into the River and ſwam to and again, diving ſeveral times together, as if it had been in the midſt of Summer. The Biſhop departing homewards, was accompanied [Page] with ſeveral Damoſels playing upon Inſtruments and ſinging all the way before him.JAN. 1671. On the other part there were ſeveral Perſian Whores and Proſtitutes who came to ſeek their Game, ſinging and dancing after a very laſcivious faſhion. In ſhort it concluded as the Orgia or Bacchanalia in the time of Gentiliſm, which were celebrated by the Thyades, or Prieſts of Bacchus, with the Perſians, who made uſe of this ſeaſon as a Fair, whither repaired many Juglers, Pedlers, Stage-players, & other Vagabonds; but the Armenians, did not either in Eating or Drinking exceed the Limits of Moderation.

CHAP. XXIII. The Ambaſſadours Siſter goes to Tafflis, and with her the Poliſh Chirurgeon. The Corps of an Indian burn'd with a Chriſtian ſhe-ſlave. The Woman having taken in a Potion to provoke ſleep, is alſo caſt into the furnace. Two Men murthered at Scamachi, and a tumult thereupon. Strange Ceremonies about the Dead. The Chans ſon is preſented with a Kolotan, or Robe of Favour, and one of the Kings Wives. A man ſtruck dead with ſtaves. A fearful Earth-quake. The Chan alſo receives a Robe of Favour, and a Wife. Pompous Solemnities at the delivery of the ſame. He receives the Princeſs. New Tidings from Ruſſia. The Ambaſſador commanded by the King of Perſia to return for Poland; who makes his excuſe, The miſerable Eſtate of the Poliſh Gentry. Theft committed in the Ambaſſadors Palace. A man tortured that was innocent. The Poliſh Chirurgeon fortunatly married at Tafflis. Another Corps of an Indian burned with a living Woman. The great kindneſs of Hadſy Biram to the Author. His bad entertainment with the Ambaſſador.

ON the 9th. departed the Siſter of Bochdan the Poliſh Ambaſſador for Tafflis with 7 Camels and conducted with ſom Georgian Soldiers. The City Tafflis is diſtant from Scamachy, about 8 Leagues. The next day her Brother, with the Ambaſſadors Chirurgeon called Adam departed alſo. This Chirurgeon was a Polonian by Birth, and had been ſent for by the Prince of Tafflis, who intreated the Ambaſſador to let him come; promiſing him a ſufficient Salary, beſides, his Diet, Appartments at Court, 4 Slaves of whether ſex he liked, and to provide him a Wife of his own chuſing and Religion, the Prince being himſelf a Roman Catholic. The Chirurgeon with whom I was very intimate would often conſult the Matter [Page] with me, and aſk what advice I could give him. I alwaies council'd him, ‘Not to neglect ſuch a golden Opportunity, telling him further what he had to expect if he ſhould continue with ſuch a Varlet as Bochdan was, who was both greedy and ingratefull for the beſt ſervice any one could do him, althô it were ſupererogatory. That if the Ambaſſadour ſhould return for Poland, as 'twas a matter very dubious, he would ſtill be in ſtatu quo, and muſt if he ſtay'd here never hope for any advancement by him who was becom loathſom to the worſt of men.’ He thanked me for my advice, and reſolved to do as I had council'd him; and ſoon after departed, as is ſaid. Right ſorry I was when he left us, being ever kind to me and other Slaves, althô I was by duty injoyn'd to wiſh and rejoyce at his Welfare, for his extraordinary Civilities. The Prince of Tafflis began firſt to be taken with him upon his noble cure performed on the Ambaſſador, when he was ſtruck down by the Poles, as was ſaid before.

The Corps of a rich Indian burned with a Woman Slave.On the 15 died at Scamachy, one Tzouke a very rich Indian, whoſe Corps his Brother after their manner deſired to burn, which by a very long and importunate interceſſion of the Prince was granted, he paying for the ſame about .1300 Crowns. The Indian having obtained this Grant the next day bought a Chriſtian Woman, which he burned with the Corps. The Bodie and the Woman were carried together without into the Field where they had made up a great Staple of Wood and a place within for the Corps.The Prieſts give the Woman a Potion and with an Engine throw her into the Fire. The Indian Prieſts gave the Woman a Potion to provoke ſleep and then ſet her upon an Engine like a Crane or Whip, made on purpoſe letting her ſo fall into the Fire. In the mean time the Bonzi poured a great Veſſel of Turpentine Oil upon the Wood and ſo ſet it on fire, and then gave the Engine a turn, upon which the Woman fell into the fire. 'Tis true the Woman ſeemed by vertue of that Potion to be fallen into a Cataphor, or Dead-ſleep, yet I heard her ſhriek out ſeveral times till the Drums, Pipes, Trumpets and other Wind-Muſic began to play, which was ſo loud and altiſonant, that I could not hear any longer, althô I got a place near the Pile which was erected for theſe Ceremonies. Such practiſe was alſo in uſe among the Idolaters of Palaeſtina, who offered their Children to Moloch. When the Fire had conſumed all, the Aſhes were thrown into the River.

[Page]On the 21 was a great noiſe in Town about 2 Men that were murthered, and the Homicides unknown. The Widows,JAN. 1670. Children and Friends of the Partys murthered brought the Dead Bodies to the Gates of the Princes Palace as demanding Juſtice,Two Men murthered. and Puniſhment for the Delinquency. About two hours they ſat by the Bodies with their Heads, and Right Arms bare, as a token that thoſe were their Allies and Friends, and kiſſed the Corpſes ſeveral times for they repute thoſe that are ſo murthered indiſputably Saints in Heaven. Hither flocked alſo Women from all parts and Countreys round about, eſteeming it a work of merit. The Perſons murthered were but ordinary People, and Citizens of the meaneſt ſort, ſo that the Chan, did not uſe much diligence in hunting out the Malefactors, for without Money Juſtice is rarely don. After the Corps had laid here about 2 hours, as was ſaid, they were by Order of the Chan carried away upon Barrows and interred in the Field, with ſom few Ceremonies. Every night were ſet up ſeveral Torches, and by day went Hundreds of Women to perform the uſual Solemnities and ſuperſtitious Rites at their Tombs. The Ceremonies are as vain as fooliſh which they do about the Dead; at their firſt coming there they bow down three times at the Grave, and as often kiſs it, adorning the Place round about with Flags of ſeveral Colours which they make faſt to ſticks.

On the 27 was a general Exultation expreſſed at Scamachy, with Beating of Drums, Sounding of Trumpets and variety of Wind-Muſic, for that the Chans Son had a Robe of Favour beſtowed upon him, and one of the Kings Wives; which were ſent him for a Preſent as a Mark of Loyalty: and indeed the latter is never don but upon the ſcore of an exceeding high Favour; and althô they have the names of the Kings Wives, yet it moſtly happens that they are pure Virgins, it being a thing impoſſible that he ſhould make uſe of ſo many as are dayly brought to him from all parts of his wide Dominions, which are alwaies the moſt ſelect Beauties; however the Grandees of Perſia, are leſs contented when they find them Maids, than otherwiſe, and for that reaſon do as duly conceal it, as others who find the contrary on privat Occaſions; For, ſay they, 'tis a Greater Honour to fiſh in the Kings Pond, than in one of their own: Nor are the Women altogether ſad at ſuch diſpoſals, ſince they live, as [Page] it were,FEB. 1671. in the State of Widdow-hood for ſom years together, the number of them being ſo great.

A fellow Cau'd to Death.On the 1 of Febr. was a Man beat to death with Canes by order of the Chan, none underſtanding the reaſon why. The Execution was don by the Domeſtics of the Palace, for they have no Ordinary Executioner: Theſe tied him Hand & Foot, which don, they fell a caning him with Sticks, or Ciplins, having a great knot at the End: no member was ſpared in his whole, for having threſhed him a while on his Back, they began with his Sides, and afterward his Belly, Thighs, Leggs, Arms, &c. which kind of Death muſt needs be a greater Torment than Breaking upon the Wheel, which we hold too cruel and inhuman, althô in uſe in moſt Countreys in Europe.

Another great Earth-quake at Scamachy.The ſame day towards night we had another formidable Earth-quake, and out of the Caves was heard a moſt hideous roaring and yelling before it began, ſo that none durſt ſleep or come near any houſe; however it laſted not very long, but ceaſed with the deſtruction of a few Houſes, which were buried in their Rubbiſh.

The Chan ſent for to receive ſome noble Preſents.The next day came an Expreſs to Scamachi from the Court at Iſpahan, with Inſtructions for the Chan to com to Court, and as he and many more beleeved to ſuffer the direfull effects of the Kings diſpleſure; yet the Courier privatly aſſured him on the contrary, as that it was to receiv ſom Royal Preſent. Betimes in the morning on the next day the Chan ſet out for Kallikklefthan, which is a Pleaſant Dwelling belonging to the King, and about half a [Dutch] league diſtant from Scamachy, being accompanied with his own Son, the Calenter, all the Nobility and Courtiers, as alſo our Lord, the Poliſh Ambaſſador, and the Poſlanic of Armenia. The Chan himſelf was mounted on a ſtately Arabian Horſe, richly Cappariſon'd, the Mounchet or Saddle-Cloth richly embroydered and ſet with Pearls and Precious Stones; the Chaplets, Bitts, and Buckles were of pure and ſolid Gold, and all the reſt of the Accoutrements ſuitably rich and ſplendid. The young Prince was equally well mounted with his Father, on a Horſe beſpread with very rich Trappings, and a noble Harnaſs. The reſt of the Retinue likewiſe appear'd with as much Pomp and Statelineſs, every one agreeable to his Quality. After this Cavalcade follow a great Train of Citizens, every one [Page] in his beſt Garb. When he came near the place he ſent out an Uſher to acquaint the Envoyé with his coming, who then went out to meet him, ſending a Gentleman before him with the Robe, himſelf following after leading a ſtately Horſe, on which the Lady was mounted which the King had ſent him, guarded with a Circle of Noblemen all mounted on horſeback, and a gallant Troop of Cavalry, armed with long Carbines, Bows and Arrows. So ſoon as the Chan ſaw them approach, he allighted from his Horſe, as did alſo the young Prince his Son, and all the Retinue, walking ſoftly on foot till they came cloſe together, at what time the Envoye [or Wakenutz] reached forth his hand and delivered the Chan a Box of Gold, which he received with demonſtration of reſpect and in humble manner after the Perſian faſhion. This don, he delivered him the Robe, which the Chan received with ſom Ceremonies cuſtomary among the Grandees, and forthwith drew it on. Laſt of all the Envoyé brought up the Bride as ſhe ſat on Horſeback and delivered her to the Chan, who very reverently bowed, laying one hand on his breaſt and the other on the Bridle, cloſe by the Bitts: upon which the Lady held forth her Hand, which the Chan kiſſed, and ſo mounting on his Horſe cloſed up with her, and taking leav of the Envoyé rode away, preſenting the Envoye with ſom Gifts, which he ſent back to Kaliklefthan. By the way they were met with innumerable companies of People from all parts, who came as nigh as they well durſt or were permitted to ſee the Bride, who was as richly attired as could be expected of a Princeſs; but after the Perſian cuſtome her Face covered, ſo that one could not ſee whether ſhe was fair, or otherwiſe. Before they came at Scamachy, the Chan allighted, as alſo the Lady, who was ſet in a Chair of State and ſo carried by certain Perſons thereto appointed into the Town, the Chan going on the one ſide and his Son on the other, In the mean while the Kettle-drums beat, & the Trumpets ſounded that the Mountains eccho'd, and all the People ſhouted with continual exclamations for Joy; for it is alwaies the manner with the Kings of Perſia, to conceal the meſſage, to all, ſave him who has the Inſtructions, who either remunerates them with ſuch Gifts as the King is pleaſed to ſend, or elſe to bring their Head along with him; ſo that a Prince ſo ſent for takes his leav of all his Friends and Relations, before he ſets forward to know the Kings [Page] Pleſure at the Hands of his Legate: for the Errand is diſpatched with ſuch ſpeed that they have not time to diſpoſe or conſult affairs. Theſe extreme Meſures create great Loyalty and Obedience in the Greateſt Officiated Perſonages; who are carefull to pleaſe and fearfull to diſpleaſe their Soveraign Lord: neither is it one of the leſt Machines to bring vaſt Sums and an inexhauſtible Treſure into the Kings Coffers, for they aemulate who ſhould bring the greateſt and moſt acceptable Preſents: as alſo to ſuch as they underſtand to be the chief Minions and Favorites in Court.

The Chan having entred the City apparrelled in his Robe, which was of Cloth of Gold, he was ſaluted with the Ordnance, and ſeveral Volleys of ſmall Shot; The People alſo of all degrees and ranks continued playing and junketting the greateſt part of the night.

New Intelligence from Ruſſia.On the 3 dito, Lewis Fabritius rode poſt to Derbent in order to his Journey for Moſcou, upon the firſt good and certain news he could have from Ruſſia: for there was a ſtrong report that the Czar had a great Army in Camp and having beat the Rebells in open Field was ready to lay ſiege to Aſtrachan; as alſo that one of a high Command and next to Radzin, was taken and put to a ſhamefull and ignominihus Death.

A Conflict between a Poliſh Gentleman and a Renegado.On the 10 dito one Slabitsky a Poliſh Gentleman, went to Court, where he caſually met with the Chans Trumpeter, who was a Polander, and a Renegado, where reprehending the Trumpeter for renouncing the Chriſtian Faith, and becoming a Proſelyte in Perſia, he grated a little too hard upon the Renegado's Conſcience, ſo that he after a few hot words drew his Scymiter and ran upon the Gentleman, who was not remiſs in doing the like; yet having bad ſucceſs in his aim, the Renegado hack'd and wounded him ſo, that his Life was deſpaired of.

The Ambaſſadour receives a Mandat to depart.On the 18 came an Expreſs to my Patron, the Poliſh Envoyé, from the Court at Iſpahan, with the ſame Mandate, that he ſhould forthwith go for Poland: But he excuſed himſelf, alleadging that the Caſpian Sea, was full of Coſac Pyrates, and that the Tartar Countreys were alſo very unſafe, ſince he muſt go thrô the Oſmins Territories, who had more than once badly intreated the Poliſh Miniſters, who were to paſs that way: Theſe were indeed likely, but not the real reaſons why he deferred his Repatriation, but, as was ſaid before, [Page] the danger he was in, of looſing his Head when called in queſtion about his ill deportment in Perſia. The Gentlemen in his Retinue finding this Procraſtination of his Journey to Warſaw did but increaſe their Miſery, were almoſt in deſpair, willing rather to beg all the way home, or get into ſervice with the Caravans. Amonſt the reſt one Pable Witsky, a youth of 19 years of Age, departs for Smyrna with the Caravan. This young Gentleman having ſhown us more than ordinary favour, I thought my ſelf obliged to do what lay in my Power to retaliate his kindneſs, and therefore gave him Letters to the Dutch Conſul at Smyrna and to ſome eminent Merchants of our Nation, deſiring if he ſhould chance to be neceſſitated or at a loſs for Money they would pleaſe to aſſiſt him, he having upon his departure no more than 20 Crowns. I gave them alſo a full Demonſtration of what he had done for the Dutch Slaves, as alſo an account of his Worth in reſpect of his Race and Deſcent, he being of one of the nobleſt Families in the Countrey, and was able to remitt what they thought good to diſburſe for him.

On the 19 dito were 6 Silver Plates ſtollen out of our Maſters Houſe which put all into a diſorder, he being ſo paſſionate that nought could appeaſe him; and ſuſpecting one Man for the Theft, he cauſed him to be tortured in the preſence of all the Family, althô he was innocent as to the Fact. Firſt he was beat with ſticks on the ſoles of his Feet which he nevertheleſs manfully ſtood out: when this was done they held his Feet cloſe to the Fire, which made him yell and roar out, that the Hair of my Head ſtood on end; and in as much as he could not any longer endure the Torment, he confeſſed what he was not guilty of, as afterwards appeared; althô when he was taken away he denied all: and thus the poor man meerly becauſe he was a Pole ſo uſed that he could neither ſtand nor go, nor was allowed a ſufficient care to reſtore him to his former Sanity, nor had any thing by way of ſatisfaction, as an acknowledgment of a wrong.

About this time came news from Tefflis about the Chirurgeon who had done that operation on the Ambaſſador, how that the Prince having underſtood that he was arrived ſent for him, and after many Careſſes and in order to his Promiſe, ſent for one of the moſt eminent Merchants in the City, who had one only Daughter. The [Page] Prince then makes the Overture, telling him that young Gentleman was one with whom he had intruſted his Life, and aſked if he would give him his Daughter in Marriage. The Merchant was at firſt ſurpriſed, hardly ready enough to give conſent that a ſtranger he had never heard of in his Life ſhould have his only Daughter; and yet durſt not well deny him, for thoſe Princes rule with an Arbitrary Power; and althô out of ſome ſhow of Courteſy they ſeem to requeſt a thing of their Subjects, yet when occaſion ſervs they command at their diſcretion: nor dare the Subject either murmure or oppoſe them in the leaſt, for fear of parting with their ſweet Lives, and loſs of Eſtate which is taken from their Poſterity. The Father gives conſent but thought her too young for the nuptial Bed, ſhe not exceeding 12 years of Age, and therefore pray'd the Marriage might be put off till ſhe was 2 years elder; however the Contract was ſigned in preſence of the Prince, with Condition that ſhe came to die without Iſſue that her Eſtate ſhould devolve upon him. In fine he was there in very great reputation and gave the Merchant reaſon to be well ſatisfied with his Perſon; who ſhow'd him all Poſſible Favour and Friendſhip.

On the 26 dito our Patron, the Ambaſſadour, got intelligence of the Party that had ſtole his Plate, being diſcovered by a Goldſmith that had bought it; for Notice was given to all the Goldſmiths in Scamachy, that if any one bought it, he ſhould have his Money again, and a Reward to boot. Yet this Delinquent had more favour ſhown him than the Party who was put to the torment before, thô innocent of the Fact; for this received only a few blows on the Foot, and was declared free. He was a Polander, not in ſervice of the Ambaſſador, but only a Paraſite who frequented the Houſe.

On the firſt of March was another Indian Corps burned with a Live-Woman, after the ſame manner as was ſaid before; only the Wood was poured over with Naphte, in place of Turpentine Oil.

On the 2 dito, Hadſy Biram my former Maſter ſent for me to come to him, where he intimated how that he intended ſo ſoon as he poſſibly could to go for Iſpahan, and aſked me if I would go with him. I anſwered, Sir, I would be glad that I might be ſo happy, but the greateſt difficulty will be to eſcape out of the Hands of my Patron: for at firſt he would hardly truſt me over the Threſhold without one to watch me, but in time gave [Page]me my Liberty to go where I would: MAR. 1671. yet finding me for his bad uſage deſirous to be out of his hands, watches me more narrowly than he did at firſt. Upon this he expreſſed how ſorry he was that he had ſold me to the Ambaſſador, as indeed for my own part I had great reaſon to be: whereas by the firſt I had plenty of all that was neceſſary and was without any Overſight, but with the laſt ſuffered perpetually Hunger, Railing & Blows, and forced to lie all Winter on the hard and cold Floor without any Coverlet to keep me from cold, ſo that it was an evident token of GODS Goodneſs that I came off with health and ſoundneſs of Body. All the Winter long I was not permitted to come in the Kitchin, much leſs at the Stove, ſo that I had no way to warm my ſelf, unleſs when I found ſom pieces of wood among the Rubbiſh which I lay together and made a Fire of; but what was worſt I durſt not for my life complain, however with the approachment of the acceptable Summer ſeaſon I was eaſ'd of that one hardſhip.

CHAP. XXIV. The manner of Celebrating New-years day among the Perſians. Advice from Boynak: from Derbent. Fire-balls fall from the Sky. Five Hundred beautiful Damoſels ſought up for the Scach, or Sophy of Perſia. A quaint mean by which a Merchant ſaves his Daughter. The Author writes to Smyrna. A Chieftain of the Coſaks brought into Scamachy; and is compelled to carry 3 of his Companions Heads in a Bag to Iſpahan, where he is upon promiſe of detecting ſomthing of weïght ſet at Liberty. A Perſian murthered by a drunken Georgian. The murtherer executed by the Brother of the murthered Party. A Horrible Self murther committed by ſeveral Perſons at a Wedding. A great Feaſt celebrated in memory of Hoſſeyn, the 3d Son of Ali. A terrible Earth-quake. The Chans Son dies and is interred.

ON the 10 of March being the Vernal Aequinoctial begins their Year. This day is celebrated with Shooting, Playing,Celebration of New-years day. Feaſting and Muſic. The Solemnity began with the Firing of two great Guns, and ſeveral Volleys of Muſkets and leſſer Fire-arms. All the night they playd upon Trumpets, Cornets, Flutes and other Wind-muſic, beſides 15 Kettle-drums. This day the Perſians call Naurus, and wiſh one another a happy New year, as is cuſtomary among us on the 1 of Ianuary. The Chan as alſo all the Nobles and Citizens [Page] kept open Table for ſeveral days together, whilſt nothing was talked of but Viſits and Banquets. My Patron profeſſing Chriſtianity was excuſed from theſe Expences, holding out, that he being a Chriſtian could not ſafely maintain Mahometan Superſtition. This was a happy time for our Gentlemen, who now with Authority went a mumping among the Perſians, nor did I think it good to dine with Duke Humphrey, ſo long as I had ſuch an honeſt Hadſi Biram to addreſs my ſelf to, whither I went and was very kindly entertained.

On the 21 we received a Letter from one of our Company, who was a Slave in Scemkal, althô there was no name ſet to it, at which we wondred; yet did beleeve it was Anthony Munſter the Diamond-cutter. The Contents was, ‘That he underſtood how that there were 2 Dutch Chirurgeons at Scamachy, whom he intreated to redeem him, and he would order the Money to be paid at Moſcou.’ The Letter was delivered to us by order of the Chan, but we had not the Power to do any thing for him; yet underſtood not long after, that the ſaid Munſter was carried to Iſpahan as Captiv, or Slave.

On the 25 we got a Letter from Meyndert Meyndertſz one of our Company, which was directed to my Patron Bochdan: the Contents thereof being much at one with the former; yet he gave no other account of his faſt Reſidence, than that he was a Slave and lived not far from Derbent, where being a Smith by his Trade he made Weapons for his Maſter. He was afterwards bought by a Perſian of Bacchu, and ſince redeemed by I. van Termund.

The next day happened a Fray between 2 Georgians, the Ambaſſadors Countreymen, who hacked and hewed ſo long with their Scymiters till they had hardly a free hand-breadth in their Bodies that was not wounded, nor could our Ambaſſadour part them, notwithſtanding all the means he could uſe, whereas every one has the Freedom to right himſelf in ſuch caſes.

On the 31 at night we had another great Earthquake, accompanied with fearfull Flaſhes of Lightning and Thunder: On this day was alſo ſeen at Scamachy and other places in Perſia huge Balls of Fire, which ſeemed to be hurl'd down from Heaven, with ſuch Force as if the Bands of the World would be diſſolved: this being the moſt dreadful ſight that ever I have ſeen in my life. The Flame thereof was blewiſh like Sulphur when it burns.

[Page]The next day we got Tidings by way of Terky, that Aſtrachan was retaken by the Great Dukes Forces, and, that ſeveral Thouſands of the Rebells were executed;News from Aſtrachan. but hearing thoſe news ſo often related and afterwards found them to be but falſe Rumors, ſuppoſed to be diſperſed by ſome Perſons whoſe Intereſt had dependence thereon, we could not ſo eaſily be induced to take this upon Credit, and therefore, acquieſced in the Indifferency of the matter till we had a Confirmation.

On the 2 of April came an Order from Iſpahan, An Order to levy 500 Wenfor the Scach. to make a General Muſter of Girls, from 2 years of Age upward, out of which the Beauties ſelect were to be choſen out for the King of Perſia. This Muſter paſſed throughout the whole Kingdom, not reſpecting either Nation or Religion. The Commiſſioners had Order from the King, to complete the number of 500 of the beſt featured, complexioned and ſhaped Virgins that were to be found in all the whole Muſter. The manner of it is thus; Some time before, the King iſſues a Mandate, which is publiſhed thrô every Province of his Realm and Dominions, That all the young Maids from 2 to 17 years [if there be any of that age] ſhall be drawn up to their reſpectiv Metropolitans, or Chief Towns (as theſe in Media, were brought to Scamachy) where the Kings Commiſſioners ſhall make choice on the Kings behalf. This Mandate is duly and with all reverence obey'd by the Parents of ſuch Children, who, if they have but one Child are obliged upon pain of Death to bring her to the Place appointed, where the ſaid Commiſſioners are to view and cenſure them if they be worthy to be culled out for the Kings uſe. Deplorable it was to ſee the dejected Countenance of the Parents, who brought their Children where they muſt take their laſt leavs of them, never thinking to ſee them again; and as remarkable it was to conſider the various tempers. and differing humors of the People, whereas ſom who having a great love and eſteem for their Children, would attire them in the ouglieſt Garb, and uſe what Arts they could to make them ſeem deformed and miſhapen; whilſt on the contrary others thinking it a Honour, and being either overburthened with their Children, or void of that tenderneſs, which by nature all are injoyned to have over their Iſſue, would uſe every mean they could conceiv to render them hand [...]m, and ſpend their utmoſt mite for Ornaments [Page] to add a Grace to their corporal qualifications,APRIL. 1671. that ſo they might be rendered as an Emphaſis among the reſt.

A Merchant looſes his Daughter to find her.When this Muſter was certified and publiſhed, which is but a ſhort warning, I knew a very rich Merchant whoſe greateſt ſolace and imaginary happineſs was in one onely Daughter, who was already marriageable, and courted by a young Gentleman of no ſlender Fortune; but the Father whether he thought her a Match, in regard of her Dowry, Beauty, Wit and other Accompliſhments, fitter for a greater Perſonage, or that the youth had ſom Property which he the ſaid Merchant took diſlike at, I cannot determine; yet certainly he courted her long before he could gain the will and conſent of the old Man, which till theſe Summons came he quite deſpaired of. But no ſooner did the old Gentleman hear of the Mandate but he ſent for the Youth, and not only gave him his Daughter for his Bride but made him in Poſt-haſt to bed with her, that ſo he might juramentally declare ſhe was no Virgin. The Youngman did not deſire many Moneths to deliberate the buſineſs, but ſuddenly accepted of his Offer, and ſo anticipated the King. Yet this did not altogether excuſe them, for it was not ſo univerſally known but that ſom Pick-thank Neighbour thinking that the Gentleman concealed his Daughter to eſcape the Cenſure, went and informed the Commiſſioners, that ſuch a Virgin was not brought to the Teſt, being a great Beauty and well bodied. The Commiſſioners immediatly ſend out a Privat Summons to the Old Gentleman to bring his Daughter into the Chans Antichambre where they held the Rendez-vous; the Old Gentleman makes his Appearance with his Son in Law and Daughter, together with ſom Perſons of Quality to make uſe of in caſe Evidence were required where being come, he preſents his Daughter, and pray'd them to take his Son too, for he was the Perſon that had her Maiden-head, which was the only thing the King deſired; In fine he declared the matter ſo circumſtantially that ſhe was diſmiſsd.

When the laſt Muſter is made, thoſe that are elected are ſet in Boxes, made not much unlike a Sedan, and carried on Camels, every Camel carrying two, which hang on each ſide like Higlers Baſkets: and the Morning appointed for their Departure they ſound a Trumpet, upon which all the Caravan comes together in order to their [Page] [Page]

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[Page] [Page] ſetting forth, appearing like a mighty Army. Thoſe that are com to maturity are ſhut up alone, and ſuch as are litle have Nurſes appointed to attend them.

All this while I ſaw little hopes of ever enjoying my Freedom, ſo that I began to deſpair of Redemption. After I had conſulted all means, I concluded it my beſt way to diſpatch Letters to ſom of my own Nation, and accordingly ſent one to the Dutch Conſul at Smyrna, and another to the Sieur Molives at Leghorn, humbly entreating them to ſend them forward for Holland, with one acquainting them that I was in Slavery at Scamachy, and could not ſend any Letter with ſafety and conveniency thrô Moſcovia, which was the reaſon of my being ſo importunate, as to direct them that way.

On the 9th. we had very tempeſtuous Weather, high and impetuous Winds, mixed with Thunder and Lightning, ſo that all ſhaked again. On this day went all the Woman to the Sepulchers of their deceaſed Friends, to perform the cuſtomary Rites.

The next day was a great Feſtival, or Holy day among them, which was ſolemnized with Beating of Kettle-drums, ſound of Trumpets, and Playing on all ſorts of loud Wind-Muſic.

On the 11th. was one of Radzins chief Officers brought into Scamachy, being with 3 more of the Coſac Commanders ſent upon an Ambaſſage to Boulat a Prince of the Circas-Tartars, to deſire his Aſſiſtance of ſom Auxiliaries, promiſing not only to ſpare his Subjects, but alſo to give him a conſiderable Reward. The Prince having underſtood the ſum of their Inſtructions, cauſed immediatly Three of thoſe to be beheaded, and their Bodies to be thrown to the Eagles and Ravens. The Heads he cauſed to be embalmed and put in a Bag, which he compelled the Fourth to carry to Iſpahan and preſent the King. His one Hand and his Neck was nailed to a Wooden Collar made like a [Y] with 2 Branches, between which his Head was ſupported, ſo that he continually looked upwards. This Coſac, or rathér Renegado, for he was a Ruſs born, I knew very well at Aſtrachan. He was mounted on a bay Horſe, and attired in a Garment of yellow Silk, and notwithſtanding the unexpected ſevere Uſage he met with did not ſeem by his Countenance to be at all concerned.The Coſac gets his Enlargement.

When he was brought into Iſpahan, was put into cloſe Priſon and loaden with maſſy Fetters and Manicles, but ſhortly after got his [Page] enlargement promiſing to impart ſom weighty and important affair to the King.MAY. 1671.

I have already made mention, how that about 2 years before, Radzin had diſpatched 7 Ambaſſadors to the Court at Iſpahan, deſiring a Supply of Men and Ammunition, as alſo to enter into a League with the King: but by reaſon the Coſacs had plundered Aſtrabath, Ferrebath and Lenkeran, and committed many inſolent Outrages within his Majeſties Territories, and that Radzin was not by any acknowledged as a Soveraign Prince, his Ambaſſadors found a very unkind Reception at Court, and meeting with ſome menacing Sentences in their Inſtructions, the King cauſed their Heads to be ſevered from their Bodies, reſerving only one to bring back the Tidings, who was upon his delivery of the Meſſage ordered by Radzin himſelf to be chop'd into Gobbets, as may be read more at large in Pag. 192, 193. So that I held it ſtrange that Stephen Radzin would aſſume the freedom to ſend any more Legates, without other Ground of Hope, that they ſhould have better ſucceſs than the former had.

A Perſian Saint murthered.On the 25 was a Perſian of reputed Sanctity murthered by a Georgian after a very baſe degenerate manner. The Murtherer was forthwith apprehended and brought before the Prince, where he was accuſed of the Fact, and conſequently delivered to the neareſt Allies of the Patient to uſe at their diſcretion, as is cuſtomary in Perſia; for rarely it happens that either the King, Prince, Deputie or the Civil Magiſtracy take notice of ſuch delinquencies, but turn over the Malefactor to the aggrieved Parties, who if they be Poor oftentimes ſell their Vengeance for Money, after which the Law is ſilent: but here the Delinquent had not that Fortune, for, the Brother of the Murthered Party had neither Poverty nor Mercy, but ſo ſoon as permiſſion was granted him, he cauſed two Men to hold him down till he had ſtabbed him with the ſame Weapon, ſaying, Get thee hence, thou drunken Dog, to the Devil to whom thou belongeſt; for the Georgian was a drunken Fellow, and executed in the ſame fit of Drunkneſs wherein he had ſo far miſtaken himſelf, ſo that the Murther, Complaint and Execution were all done in the ſpace of three Hours.

A Tragical Paſſage at a wedding.On the 3 of May fell out a dolefull Tragedy at a Wedding, where when all the Company were in the middeſt of their mirth, and the [Page] Bridegroom in a gay and jolly humour was ſuddenly ſtruck at the Heart, as if he had taken in ſomthing that was a vigorous and ſpeedy poyſon, and immediately fell down and died in the arms of his Bride. Immediatly upon this all was in a lamentable caſe: The Bridegrooms Mother was ſo impatient and concern'd that ſhe took a Knife and ript up her own Belly, that all her Bowels guſhed out, and ſhe fell to the Ground. The Siſter ſeeing this, ran out of Doors as one diſtracted, tearing her Hair and rending her Fleſh, that many wondred to think how a young Woman of that tenderneſs could ſo mangle and abuſe her Body, and at laſt ran up to the top of a ſteep Rock, whence ſhe threw her ſelf praecipitantly: ſo that this fair Morning had a foul Evening, and theſe Nuptial Solemnities which began with a Comedy, concluded with a deep Tragoedy.

On the 9th. was a ſolemn Proceſſion made at Scamachy which is yearly celebrated in Memory of St. Hoſſeyn the ſecond Son of Aly, and the Grand Expounder of the Alcoran, who was ſtoned to death, or, as ſom aſcertain ſhot with Darts or Arrows. This Feaſt they call Aſſchur, which in their Language ſignifies Ten, for that Hoſſeyn when he went from Medina to Kufu was 10 days purſued by his Enemies, ſo that this Feaſt continues 10 days. This Hoſſeyn as I ſaid before was the youngeſt Son of the great Aly, for whoſe death they ſeem very ſorrowfull. About the Beginning of this Feaſt thoſe that are able apparel themſelvs in Blew, which is their Mourning, as Black is with us. During theſe 10 days they never ſhave their Hair, nor take any Raſour in their Hands, whereas at other times they make uſe of it every day. They hold alſo a very ſtrict Faſt drinking nothing but Water, and all the time howl and make a very mournfull noiſe, breathing out many fearfull curſes againſt the Murtherer, beating themſelvs continually and with that earneſtneſs till they grow black and blew. The Boys and Men run continually about the ſtreets with Flags and Daſſels, raging and bawling as if they were either drunk, or beſides themſelvs, ever crying out O Hoſſeyn, Hoſſeyn! Others ſit at the Threſholds and in the Galleries of the Meſquits, or Churches, inceſſantly crying, O Hoſſeyn, Hoſſeyn! O Hoſſeyn, Hoſſeyn! Before every door, and at every Window were planted many Torches, and not a Houſe how poor ſoever it was in all Scamachy, without a great Number of Torches and wax candles ſet all in Rows, [Page] which gave a wonderfull ſhow. No leſs worthy of ſight was the Proceſſion, which was performed with many Ceremonies; and ſuch was my curioſitie that notwithſtanding all the Thumps I got, I ſtill crowded in among them to ſee all I could. Firſt of all appeared the Chatib, or High-prieſt, accompanied with a long rout of Inferior Clergy; The Chatib, or Mufti, himſelf was attired in a long blew Robe, with a white Torſe, or Wreath about his Head, and ſo were all the reſt of the Clergy attired after the ſame manner, yet different in Pomp and ſtatelyneſs according to their ſeveral degrees and advancement. The Chatib had in his hand an Arabian Book, out of which he read the Memorials of the Saint with an exceeding loud voice; which ended he was ſilent for a little while, and then again began all the Prieſts to ſing with a ſtrange melody or rather howling, for it was but a confuſed Harmony, ever crying out O Hoſſeyn! O Hoſſeyn! Hoſſeyn! In ſhort a third part of what I heard was Hoſseyn. After theſe followed all the Great Perſonages; and next to them 2 Great Pageants of form, ſquare, each with a pompous Canopy, theſe were ſupported and born by a certain number of Men, on the one was the Repreſentation of the Prophet being ſignified by a Perſon who had taken in a Potion which made him to ſleep for 48 hours together, lying upon a Bier. Round about the [ſuppoſed] Corps ſate 6 little Boys, who had the Art of weeping ad unguem. Above the Canopy ſtood two Towers very pompous and coſtly, and out of the one a Youth put forth his Head weeping aloud and dolefully cried out Hoſseyn, Hoſseyn! O Hoſseyn, Hoſſeyn! On each ſide the Pageant ran ſeveral young Men all naked, ſave only about the Middle, having anointed themſelvs with Flower and black Naphtha, that they looked more like Satyrs than Men: in their Hands they had Truncheons, wherewith they threatned (quaſi verò) to baſtonado the Murtherer: Others there were who carried in each hand a Flint or ſom hard ſtone, which they ſmote together, ſtill howling and weeping aloud, that had it not appeared otherwiſe by their wanton Actions when any She-ſlave came near them I ſhould have taken all for real and unfeigned ſorrow. All this while they jumped and twiſted themſelvs into many poſtures; the Air ſtill Ecchoing with Hoſſeyn, Hoſſeyn. Beſides theſe were 6 luſty Men of robuſt Bodies having each a naked Scymiter in the hand, and bare-headed: theſe danced after a very od manner [Page] making various Figures, and always at turning made an effectual Exerciſe of their Weapons, in ſuch manner that the Blood which came guſhing out of the Wounds on their Heads ran down their Shoulders with ſuch ſtreams, that no part of their Bodies was free of Blood; and to thoſe Champions was imputed a great meſure of Sanctity, for that they had voluntarily ſhed their Blood for the ſake of the great Hoſſeyn. In one of their Heads (as I afterwards could deſcry) were more than 20 Wounds.

After this follow'd the ſecond Pageant which was carried by the like number of Men. Above it had a Coffin, upon which was a green Turbant, and round about it were alſo 6 young Men, each one with an Alchoran in his Hand, wherein they continually read. After this Pageant there followed another ſmall one, on which was carried a Veſſell, not much unlike a Bathing-Tub, full of Blood, wherein ſat two Children, nothing appearing ſave only their Heads [perhaps to repreſent the 2 Sons of that reputed Martyr] This was carried with a ſtrange noiſe of vocal Muſic, but to me ſeemingly void of Rule and Judgement. Laſt of all came another ſmall Pageant, with a fair blew Silk Covering, and thereon ſate a Youngman who read all the way in a great Book. After theſe Pageants, or Brancards, followed 4 Noble-men, each leading a horſe of State, richly cappariſon'd: The Saddles being of Gold, and beſet with Precious Stones. On the far-ſide had each Horſe a Damaskin Scymiter, and on the near-ſide a Shield. On each Saddle was a Turbant, adorned with variety of Gems and unſpeakably rich. This Solemnity was concluded with a grand Retinu of Citizens, who ſeemingly ſurpaſſed all the reſt in Devotion. When the Pageants were come before the Door of the Deputy they ſtood ſtill: and the Deputy accompanied with all the Nobles about the Court, rode out to hear the Chatyb [or Sermon] that the Prieſt before mentioned, according to the cuſtom, was to preach, which he did with ſuch Zeal, as that the Chan [or Deputy] with all that heard him could not refrain from weeping. Moſt of the Sermon was a collaudatory Rehearſal of the Sanctity and Noble Acts of Hoſſeyn, together with a Hiſtorical recitation of his Martyrdom. When the Chatyb was concluded there came an Image of Straw mounted upon an Aſs, armed with Bow and Arrows: this Figure was to repreſent the Murtherer, who as he rode thrô the Preas, every [Page] one contemptuouſly ſpit upon him, and curſed him with the moſt bitter Curſings of Hell, Miſery, and what elſe they could imagin, for the violent Hands he had laid upon ſo holy a man.

Another Earth-quake.On the 16 was another Earth-quake which for ſome time raged ſo, that the Ambaſſadors pallace was ſhaken, and all the Diſhes and what elſe was looſe fell; beſides ſeveral Houſes that were near us were hurled down.

A man beat to Death.On the 17 another Man was Caned to Death by 6 of the Chans Domeſtics: and on the ſame day died the Chans Son, being a Child of 6 moneths old, and buried the next day after, with great pomp and ſtation.Death and Funeral of one of the Chans Children. The Body was not put in a Coffin, but carried open (after the Perſian manner) upon a Bier, by ſome of the greateſt Perſonages, ſome of them going on each ſide, ſupporting a Caerulean Canopy: for Blew with them, as Black with us, is the Mourning Colour. The Chan himſelf followed the Bier, and next to him his Son, being about 15 years of Age: after thoſe the Noble Perſonages and Courtiers, according to their rank and degree. When they were come to the Sepulchre, the Body was ſet down before the Door of the Chappel, or Oratory, where the Nobility diſtributed Alms to the Poor, beſtowing alſo very liberally certain pieces of Gold upon the Prieſts thereby injoyning them to pour out their Prayers for the Soul of the Departed, and to have him in perpetual Remembrance. This don the Body was carried inward, and laid in a new Grave, upon which was a fair Tomb or Monument of white Marble, with admirable curious Foliage, and other Ornaments of Sculpture. The Prieſts received the Body to interr it with many Ceremonies and Bowing. When all was cloſed the Chan drew near to kiſs the Tomb, as alſo his Son, and the reſt of the Nobility, and ſo after their former rank and order returned back to the Palace.

CHAP. XXV. News from Aſtrachan. A Perſian Woman and Adultereſs taken in the Fact. A Young Gentleman caned to death by Order of the Prince and complaint of his Father. Another put to the ſame death. One of the Authors Companions goes for Iſpahan, Hailſtones as big as Eggs. The Author and a Venetian entertained in an Armenian Monaſtery. A Woman taken in Adultery, for which ſhe is ſurrendred up to the Will and Power of her Husband, who fleas her alive, nails up her Skin upon the Wall, and throws out her Carcaſe into the ſtreet. The great Jealouſie of the Perſians. The male Children about the Court gelded. The great Slave market at Scamachy. The unnatural cuſtom of the Geor-Georgians, The Ambaſſadour receives a Charge to depart.

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ON the 19 dito we had very tempeſtuous Weather,Tempeſtuous Weather. with fearful Flaſhes of Lightning and Thunder, that I thought the World would be diſſolved, for it was more dreadfull than either my Tongue or Pen is ſufficient to expreſs, nor did I ever ſee the like in all my Life. And the ſame day we got Tidings from Aſtrachan, News from Aſtrachan. that the City was of a certainty taken in by the Great Duke, that the Army of the Coſacs was beat in open Field, and Stephen Radzin, the grand Belwether taken alive. The Succeſs of the Day next to the Power of the Almighty was aſcribed to the German and Dutch Forces, for which good ſervice they received conſiderable Favours from the Czar, and were beyond the Ruſsians themſelvs remunerated with ſeveral Tokens of Gratitude.

On the 20 was a great Wreſtling Match, of 6 expert Wreſtlers being ſtrangers, who quitted themſelvs in the Game with an admirable Dexterity, doing many noble Exerciſes in preſence of ſeveral Hundred Spectators, who could not behold them but with great Wonder. When they had performed all, they went about with a Porceline Diſh to deſire Money by way of reward.

On the 21 were two of the Ambaſſadors Gentlemen taken into Cuſtody, and put into fetters by the Perſians, for that they had lay with a Mahometan Woman. The Woman her ſelf was ſhortly after brought and delivered to the Ambaſſador, to deal with her according to his Diſcretion; and if he liked to hew her into Gobbets, ſuch bein the Deſire of her Husband, who declared himſelf willing to acquieſce [Page] in what was done. But the Ambaſſadour who had been ſo long at the Academy of Venus, was ſuch an expert Proficient that he could ſay his Leſſon with out book as w [...]ll as his Domeſtics, take'em one for one: and in ſhort had ſuch compaſſion on her that he ſent her away a free Remiſſionary, but not without reconciling her to her Husband. Soon after the Gentlemen alſo got inlargement.

On the 22 a Youngman (according to Sentence paſſed upon him) was beat to death with Sticks, being to paſs thrô the Town and at the Corner of every Street to receiv a certain number of Blows, till at laſt he dropped down dead. This was mainly occaſioned upon the requeſt of his unnatural and mercileſs Father, who was an eminent Gentleman, and Inhabitant of Scamachy. The Crime for which he was accuſed was a kind of Satyr, or a Paſquil, which he had written and ſent to the Governour: the main purport whereof was in theſe Words. How comes it that your Lordſh, grows ſuch a great Saint all on a ſudden? Who has poſseſsed your mind to alter thoſe long continued Cuſtoms of the Perſians? And do you not know what Dishonour it is to all the Muſulmans and the whole Kingdom in general? Or are you indeed becom a Chriſtian? &c. This Innovation he meant, was an Interdiction which the Chan or Governour, had iſſued 3 days after the Proceſſion, That none ſhould hew and cut (as was their Cuſtom) with Swords in the Streets, like as we have ſpoke more amply in the Feaſt of Aly. The Father, ſom ſaid, durſt not but make complaint, leſt it ſhould have been imputed to himſelf as Miſpriſion, it being well known by others that it was his Son who ſent the Libel. But it may be obſerved that thoſe who would put the affair in that Poſture, were either prejudic'd or byaſſed Perſons. But others who were indifferent looked upon it as an Example of Unmercifulneſs and Ambition, where he only did it for Hopes of Favour from the Chan, which be eſteemed a Purchaſe aequivalent to his ſons Life. The next day was another Man beat to Death, by 7 of the Chans Domeſtics before the Gates of the Palace, but for what I could not learn.

A Narrativ from Ruſſia.Upon the 26 we got another Narrativ, which confirmed the former News from Aſtrachan; as alſo, how that Radzin was carried to Moſcou. In the mean while Mr. van Termund makes preparation to go for Iſpahan, and with all diligence makes up a Company, to the end that he might travel more ſecure, there being then a great rumor of many [Page] Inſolencies perpetrated by the Wood-rangers:JUNE. 1671. and on the 29 ſet forward, taking with him Peter Arentſz of Schevelingen, one of our Ships-Company, and a Poliſh Jew, who had been taken by the Scemkal-Tartars and made his Eſcape.

On the 30 aroſe a moſt hideous Tempeſt of Wind, Thunder,Great Storms and Hail. Hail and Lightning; which continued for two days together after which all was very calm and ſtill and the air very ſerene. The Hail did much damage to the Fruit, every Hailſtone being of an unuſual bigneſs, ſom as large as the Egg of a Hen or Turky.

On the 6 of June I went with a Venetian (who had bin a Slave in Turky and run away) about 15 Miles w [...]thin Land, where we found an Armenian Friary. The Monaſtics received and treated us very kindly, when they underſtood that we were Chriſtians, and in Slavery to the Mahometans. They intreated us to tell them all the paſſages we had met with abroad, which the Venetian firſt did, and afterwards deſiring me to do the like, I related all in brief, which they took great delight to hear, eſpecially about the taking in of Aſtrachan. They deſired us further to tarry with them for ſom time, which we promiſed to do, and accordingly ſtay'd there two nights. All the time they careſſed us with all kindneſs imaginable, neither ſparing for Victuals nor good Drink: profeſſing themſelvs ſorry that our condition would not allow them the happineſs of a longer enjoyment of our Company. Their manner of Life was very ſingle, without any Incumbrance of the Mahometans, their Hous-holding regular and gentile, and the Men among themſelvs mutually loving one another, and ſociable with ſtrangers, very charitable to all that were in neceſſity, of what Opinion or Faith ſoever they were. Right loath we were to leav them, but not daring to ſtay any longer, we took our leavs of them, thanking them for their kindneſs and civility they had ſhown us. In taking our way to Scamachy, we were fain to climb over ſome Hills, and one great Mountain flat at Top, upon which was a Lake, according to our gueſſing, 3 miles in Circuit. Going along the ſhore to our great amazement we found four Bodies of Men that had but newly been murthered, having their throats cut, we ſuppoſed them to be Anglers, ſeeing Fiſhing Canes and other Implements about them. However, we thinking it for two reaſons unſafe for us to ſtay there any longer, made all the haſt we could to get out [Page] of the way. This Lake as we afterwards underſtood was very plentifull of many kinds of delicate Fiſh, which are ſold very dear and highly eſteemed of abroad throughout all that part of the Countrey, and indeed it was once our thoughts to make a Trial if we could take any thing, till meeting with theſe new murthered Perſons, we chuſed rather to let the Fiſh remain in their Element, than by the probable conſequence to pay too great a price for our ſport.

On the 9 happened a very Tragical paſſage at Scamachy, which, notwithſtanding the horrible ſpectacle I had ſeen the Day before, made my Heart beat withrn my Breaſt, as it did many times after that, when it came into my mind. A Poliſh Woman and a Slave was taken by a Perſian for his Wife. Whether ſhe had ſom private Quarrel with him, or that ſhe was conſcious of ſom misbehaviour to him I cannot determine, however ſhe came to my Patron the Poliſh Ambaſſador, firſt making a large Demonſtration of her State, and of her Friends and Family in Poland, ſhe requeſted that my Lord would vouchſafe her his Protection, till ſuch time as ſhe could meet with an opportunity to convey her ſelf clandeſtinly home into her own Countrey. My Lord, at the earneſt intreaty of ſom Domeſtics who were his Minions, aſſented: but after ſhe had ſo privily held her ſelf about the ſpace of 14 days, her Husband got Intelligence by ſom Pick-thank or other, where ſhe was, applies himſelf immediatly to Court, where (after a litle ſoliciting) he gets an Order to fetch her out, and uſe her as ſeemed good to him. But conſidering that the Domeſtics of my Lord were too numerous and a little unruly, he durſt not attempt to make the demand, but went back again to Court deſiring Aſſiſtance upon which the Prince ſent ſom of his Officers, who when our People ſaw that they were com in a warrantable way, durſt not oppoſe them, nor had they any conveniency to put her out of the way, ſo that ſhe was forthwith delivered into the hand of her Huſband. The Man having as was ſaid permiſſion to puniſh her at his own Diſcretion had already provided a Wooden Croſs, upon which, with the help of his Servants, he bound her faſt, being mother naked, and with his own hands flea'd her whilſt yet living. I ſtood my ſelf all the while at the Door with a great Company of Men, Women and Children, and heard her cry out moſt bitterly. Yet none thought that his cruelty was of ſo high a nature till we ſaw the [Page] [Page]

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[Page] [Page] Carcaſe, thrown out into the ſtreet where it lay an hour or two, and afterwards by his order was dragged into the Fields, to be devoured of the Eagles, and other Birds of prey: but he not ſatisfied herewith took the Skin and nailed it upon the Wall for a Monument and Warning to his other Wives, which were 12 in number, who never ſaw it but trembled, as indeed I my ſelf did, ſo often as I went by the Houſe, or paſſed by that way. It is a plain Proverb, not ſo common as true, The Old Woman had not ſought her Daughter in the Oven, had ſhe never bin there her ſelf: and ſo the Men in Perſia, The Ie [...] louſy of the Perſians. or at leſt about theſe Parts, being generally prone to Venery, and without the bounds of Continency, harbour and ſuſtain an ill Opinion of their Wives, whom they will have to be chaſt and loyal. This Jealouſy is the reaſon that few who covet a good name and would be reputed honeſt go with any part of their bodies uncovered, ſave only their Eies, their Face being muffled up in Silks or Cotton. Thoſe who go with uncovered Heads, are ſuch as we commonly call Gameſters, and proſtitute. So ſoon as any one comes in a doors, the Woman runs into a Chamber and locks her ſelf up that ſhe may not be ſeen, althô the Slaves have often the Opportunity to violate their Maſters Couch notwithſtanding all the Indeavours they uſe to ſuppreſs them.Eunuchs. But the King and the Great ones of the Realm prevent that by gelding their Slaves; which they doe very effectually, but Modeſty forbids me to make further mention of the Manner. They do it commonly when they are young, buying Children that are ſtollen from their Parents, and are therefore in regard of their bringing up, held in greater value than others, as alſo becauſe that there is hardly one in three that both live and like. The price which is ſet upon them is one reaſon why ordinary Perſons have them not, and another is becauſe that if they thrive they grow very fat and lazy, and conſequently unfit to do any ſervice they have occaſion for. And by reaſon that Women-Slaves are ſomewhat rare among them, the Merchants and Citizens Wives are moſtly attended by Men, who if they have a ſprightly and airy way and Carriage, are ſomtimes admitted to enjoy thoſe illicit Pleaſures, which in proceſs of time they recompence with the loſs of their Lives.

It happened once that my Patron received a ſudden Meſſage from the Prince to com to Court; upon which he gave me Order to ſaddle [Page] his beſt Horſe: now the Saddle which he ordered me to ſet on being richly ſet with Pearls and Precious ſtones, he kept it alwaies, in the Chamber where his Plate was, ſo that I muſt paſs through three Chambers to fetch it, but opening the Door of the ſecond Room I found my Patroneſs ſtanding naked in the Bath, upon which being in a great amazement, and fearful that this raſh Action might be repreſented to my Maſter, who might make me pay for my Peeping, in all haſt I retreated and offered to run out again, which ſhe ſeeing, cried out, Ho! ho! don't run away, go thrô and fullfil your Lords Commands. This ſhe ſaid with a ſmiling Countenance, which cured me of the Palſie, that the ſight of her had already ſtruck me into.

The Ambaſſadors Brother goes to Iſpahan.On the 10th. the Ambaſſadors Brother departed for Iſpahan, to make complaint againſt the Chan, about the Money that the Ambaſſadour had upon Intereſt and disburſed for him, which he could not get in.

The great Slave-Fair.On the 11th. of Iuly is a great Fair at Scamachy, upon which day above 500 Slaves were brought to Market, that being their main Traff [...]ic. Of theſe Slaves are of all ſorts of People, Men, Women, Children, Chriſtians and Pagans, Polonians, Ruſsians, Georgians and Circas-Tartars. The Poles & Ruſſes are commonly ſtole by the Dageſtan-Tartars, as alſo the Circaſſes which are Heathens, for according to the Voice of the Alchoran no Mahometan [or Muſulman] may be made a Slave, which mainly tends to the Propagation of Turciſm. On the contrary the Circas-Tartars in revenge do ſteal the Dageſtans and ſell them to the Ruſsians. And ſo the Tartars, althô ſeemingly many Nations, yet doubtleſs of old one People, live in conſtant jarrs and private Hoſtility, who if they had but Diſcretion and Conduct anſwerable to their Power, were in a capacity to ſubdue both Ruſs—and Perſia. But as for the Georgians they are generally ſuch as are ſold by their own inhuman Parents, and in that out do both Turk and Pagan who will not make ſale, of ſuch as are of their own Opinion or Nation, much leſs their own Children, which is a thing ſo beſides Nature, that the moſt ſavage Beaſts do abhor it, and will as ſoon part with their Life as with their Young. This Fair, which, as I have ſaid, conſiſts moſt in the Sale of ſtollen Booty is a great advantage to Derbent and Scamachy, which of late years ſeem to flouriſh mainly, and for this reaſon is frequented by many Merchants, where they [Page] ordinarily find all things at an available price. The Slaves being brought to Market, the Buyer goes about and ſeeing one he likes, the firſt thing he does is to look him in the mouth, as we do Horſes,Slaves how bought and tried. cauſes him to be ſtript, and feels him all over, but eſpecially his Wriſts and Muſcles, thence collecting what ſtrength he is of, and what ſervice he is able to do him. If the Buyer intend to imploy him about Meſſages, he cauſes him to run out 10 or 12 Paces, others make them to ſtand in all Poſtures, and ſo value them according to their Age, ſoundneſs of Body and ſtrength. If the Buyer chance to find any reaſonable fault, failing, or blemiſh in his Slave within the ſpace of 3 daies, he may return him to the ſeller and receive the value again; and this advantage has the Buyer alſo in moſt other things, or if I am not miſtaken in all ſave damageable Commodities.

On the 12 the Calenter who is next to the Chan in Power and Office came to our Ambaſſador with an Order from the Scach, The Poliſh Ambaſſador receivs another Order to depart. to bid him make preparation for his Journey, and in all haſt to depart. But the Ambaſſador returned him his wonted reply: ‘That he was at preſent deſtitute of Money, and not able to undertake the Journey, unleſs the Chan would pay him what he was owing him, upon the receipt of which he would immediatly go, without more or further delay.’

CHAP. XXVI. A dreadfull Tempeſt. Great Balls of Fire fall upon the Earth. A moſt fearful Deluge whereby Houſes, Men and abundance of Cattel are carried away. The Chan receivs another Robe of Favour. The Offerings of the Banjans, for the Fowl and Fiſh. The Religious Exerciſe of the Perſian Women. The Author's Diſcourſe with the Chan. The Author meets with one of the Tartars who had made him Slave. He gets out of the ſervice of the Poliſh Ambaſſador. The great Bounty and Kindneſs of his Patron Hadzi Biram, and of Altine his Patroneſs. One of his Company, made free.

ON the 13 was a violent ſtorm,A great Storm. with Thunder and Lightning which very much endamaged the Ambaſſadours Houſe, and took away the Roof of many other Houſes round about. The Air was as if it had been all Fire, and a Sulphury flame, and ſomtime [Page] were ſeen great balls like burning Brimſtone falling down. About 8 in the Evening I ſaw a great maſſy lump of Fire, which made the Earth ſhake again when it fell, and ſo burſt all to pieces. Formidable, I thought, were the great Ordnance in the Dardanelli when they were diſcharged, being reputed the greateſt in the World: But there was as much difference between this and them, as there is between a Mountain and a Mole-Hill. About 2 hours after fell down 6 more, which were as big as Hogs-heads, theſe conſumed and waſted a great part of the ground where they light. This Tempeſt continued about 48 hours; after which followed a very calm ſeaſon.

On the 15 we had news from Ardebil, how that Monſr. Termund with P. Arentſz his ſervant were arrived there ſafe and well, althô not without ſom difficulty by the way, meeting with ſome Robbers, but the Konjack telling them that he was ſent to the Schach on an Expreſs, they let him go without further trouble.

A great Deluge.The next day fell abundance of Rain, that all the whole Face of the Countrey round about Scamachy lay under Water, and the ſtreams coming from the Mountains brought down huge Pieces of Rocks and Stones which came down into the Town and carried away ſeveral Houſes with them, as alſo many People who were on every ſide environed with the Floods that they could not help themſelves. This Tempeſt concluded with fearful Thunder-claps and Lightning, as if the laſt day were com.

Many people drowned.On the 17 the Chan had a Robe of Favour ſent him from the King. The Envoyé who brought it being arrived at the Kings Houſe without the City ſent notice and acquainted the Chan with his coming, who according to the Cuſtom ſet his Houſe in order and took leav of his Friends, fearing that this was upon a ſharper Errand than the laſt, the more I ſuppoſe, becauſe my Patrons Brother had been at Iſpahan to acquaint the King, that his Brother, the Poliſh Ambaſſador had ſuch a ſum of Money due to him from the Chan, and could not for the want thereof undertake his Journey for Warſaw. The Chan makes preparation to go and know the Kings Pleaſure, being mounted on a ſtately Arabian Horſe, and followed with a great Retinu of Nobility and Courtiers, all well mounted, as before So ſoon as he was com there the Envoyé fulfills his Commiſſion and delivers the Robe, after the ſame manner & with the ſame Ceremonies [Page] as were before mentioned:AUG. 1671. and having taken his leave of the Courier returned into the City with variety of Wind-Muſic, Kettledrums and Trumpets.

On the 18 of Auguſt we had a great Earth-quake which raged a long time together, in which many Dwelling Houſes, Stables and Barns without the Walls on the Eaſt-ſide of the Town were thrown down, and abundance of Men cruſh'd to pieces. When the Earthquake was paſt, it began to rain very hard, and blew extremely.Superſtition of the Banjans. The ſame day I had occaſion to go without the Walls where walking a litle towards the Fields I ſaw about 100 Benians performing Sacrifices to the Fowls and Fiſh. They lay upon their knees and ſtrowed Rice and Beans upon the Land and in the River. Theſe Indians will never kill any living Creature, not ſo much as Lice, which althô they take yet ſet them down in ſom place or other to paſture, and let them ſhift for themſelvs. When they ſee any Perſon go out a Birding with a Fowling-piece, Ginns, or other Implements they will give him Money to go home again; or, if they perceiv any one about to ſhoot they will be ſure to ſpoil his Game, by chacing away the Fowl, inſomuch, that if the Party be a Choleric man, they are in danger of their Lives. The like they doe with the Fiſh, when they ſee any com to Angle, and trouble the water. When they are about to make water, or eaſe themſelvs they alwaies look about them if there be no Vermin or any thing that hath life upon the Ground, which if there be, they remove it away very carefully, leſt they ſhould do it harm. During the time of theſe Feſtival Days, which happens 8 times a year, they will burn no Candle, Tapour, or Torch; leſt Muskettos, and other Inſects that fly about the Flame ſhould ſinge their Wings. They have alſo offered the Chan a conſiderable ſum of Money that no Beaſt ſhould be ſlain during the time of theſe Feaſts, but the Chan would not liſten to any ſuch thing. Theſe people are alſo very ſuperſtitious in many other things, and withall ſtrict and zealous. They will not uſe either Diſh or any other Veſſel belonging to ſuch as are not of their own Sect, yet will ſuffer others to make uſe of theirs. They abſtain from Fleſh, and Fiſh, and whatſoever had, or may have life, inſomuch that they are as ſhy of an Egg as of the Bird that lays it. They are very ſubtle in Traffic, and in that are ſaid to ſurpaſs not only the other Indians, but all other Nations.

[Page]On the 26 was a great Holiday among the Perſians, when as all the Women went to perform their Solemnities at the Graves of their deceaſed Friends and Allies upon the Mountains, where they frequently beat their Heads, Kiſſed the Tombs and other Ceremonies more, which are all the Religious Duties their Women are injoyned to, that I could obſerve: for they never go to the Moſquees, or Churches, nor ever do they pray at home, but leav all to the Piety of the Men, who go to prayer 3 times a day, and there appear very devout, to wit at Morning, at Noon and at Night, invoking the Aſſiſtance of the Angels. At their firſt Entrance into the Moſquite, they utter theſe words, This I do in the Name of the Almighty GOD: which ſaid they utter ſom ſhort Prayer, that they have by form praeſcribed, directing it to certain Angels, that they would vouchſafe to chace away the Devil, that he may not incommodate them in their Prayer. When they have made their Addreſs to the Angels, they then apply themſelvs to GOD, in theſe words: Praiſed be GOD, the Lord of the Laſt Judgement. Thou O Heavenly GOD haſt power to help us, wherefore we adore thee. Help us to find and continue on the right Way, not on the Way where ſinners commit ſins, but on that Way where no Error is. Amen.

The next day being the 27 I preſented Hadzi Biram my former Patron with the Model of a Ship and a Galley which coſt me about 3 Moneths Labour. On the Ship were 40 Guns, and 10 on the Galley, with 42 Oars, both being complete, as to Maſts, Sails Rigging, Anchors, &c. Hadzi accepted of it kindly, and forthwith preſented it to the Prince as a great Rarity. The Prince was greatly taken with it, and asked Hadzi Biram, whether I was at Scamachi, which underſtanding deſired to ſee me; upon which my Patron ſent a Slave to fetch me. I had hopes that this might work out my Redemption and bring me into Favour, went without much delay to give Attendance, where being admitted and come within preſence I bowed after the Perſian manner, with my Hand upon my Breaſt. The Prince, ſeeing me ſtand at a diſtance, bad me com near, which I did. Then he fell to asking me ſom Queſtions as to my Countrey, and the Occaſion of my coming thither, which I anſwered. Then he asked me if ſuch Ships ever ingaged in Battel, one againſt another? To which I replyed, That 2 Fleets being between 2 [Page] and 300 Sail of the Engliſh and Hollanders, encountered each other, continually firing their Guns, and then proceeded to Boarding, Sinking, Burning, or Blowing up. He then asked me, why thoſe two Nations profeſſing one Faith and Religion made War upon each other. I anſwered him, that it was for no other reaſon than the Mahometans made War againſt each other, and thoſe two mighty Potentates the Schach of Perſia, and the Ottoman Emperour, profeſſing one and the ſame Faith in ſubſtance. The Prince turning about to Hadzi Biram, told him that what I ſaid was juſtly true. Upon this came in ſom Great Perſonage, and giving me the Beck, a Token that I muſt withdraw, I went away as much a Slave as I came in.

On the 28 was a great Silver Goblet ſtole out of our Houſe, but there was ſuch a narrow ſcrutiny that the Thief was immediatly found out, and after ſeveral blows on the Foot with a Staff, was put in Fetters. He was a Georgian, and the Ambaſſadors Townsman.

On the 31 I took a melancholic Walk through the Town, and immediatly had a Reſcontre with one of the Tartars that took us and made us Slaves, he being the very Man that tied me to his Horſes Tail, dragging me backwards thrô Thorns and Brambles ſtone-naked. I had no ſooner ſeen him but my Blood began to boil in my Veins, and my heart beat, ſtill ſtudying what way to be avenged of the Villain. I dogged him ſo far till I found a convenient place, and having a good Truncheon in my Hand, with a knot at the end, as the Perſians commonly carry about with them, with which I lent him ſuch a Dandy-flute on the Fore-head, that he tumbled down like an Ox, upon which not willing to loſe my Labour I pumme'ld ſo about the Chaps, that Blood came guſhing out at his Noſe and Ears; and well it was that I had not my Knife about me, for if I had, I ſhould ſurely have ſent him to ſalute his Grandfather: yet my fear was that I had already ſent him on that Errand, for he lay as dead upon the Ground, which I obſerving, and dreading the conſequence, made all the haſt I could to get away: However being ſeen by ſom Perſians, who it ſeems had bin Spectators all this while at a diſtance, one of them caught me by the Arm and with a ſurly look, asked me, ſaying, What is your meaning, Friend? d'ee intend to murther a Man at noon-day upon the Street? Hold, hold, you are not to go ſo, you muſt be anſwerable to the Governour for this Inſolency. But to ſatisfy them, I made [Page] anſwer, That he was a Dageſtan Flagiary or, Manſt [...]aler, and took me being a Free Perſon to ſell me as a Slave; and with one told them, how inhumanly and with what cruelty he had uſed me: I told them alſo that was a Domeſtic of the Poliſh Ambaſſadour: Hearing this they let m [...] go: but coming at the Corner of the Street I met with 10 or 12 o [...] his Company, all Tartars, who no ſooner underſtood what was do [...] but they ran all over the Town to ſeek me, and perceiving my ſel [...] environed on every ſide I ran into a Tobacco houſe under pretext o [...] ſmoking a Pipe, paying my uſual Penny: and here I lurk'd till [...] thought the Coaſt was clear, and ſo ran home. But it was not long before I heard a whole Troop of Tartars at the Gate, who were the ſame that followed me, bringing the ſilly Miſcreant along with them, al [...] bloody and plaiſtered with Kennel-dirt, to ſhow him to my Lord. The Ambaſſadour underſtanding what was the Matter, called me to him, and hearing all the whole Paſſage, ſaid to me, Get you gone, yo [...] Loggerhead, why did you not ſtrike home? then we had not had this clutte [...] at the Door. Hence, hence, I ſay, and do your buſineſs better the next tim [...] when it coms to your turn, go turn me this Rabble from the Door. A hard Taſk upon my Word, yet coming below, all the Gentlemen and Servant waited there, longing to hear what reſult I had, and underſtanding, what the Ambaſſadours Pleaſure was, they reſolved unan [...] mouſly to furniſh themſelvs with Truncheons and Clubs, and fa [...] upon them on a ſudden, which we did and threſh'd them manfull back and ſides, for we were 2 to one: The poor Dageſtan that wante [...] full Satisfaction got a handſom ſhare in the Fray, and was ſo throughly baſted with Oil of Canes that he who at the firſt coming to th [...] Door, pretended that he could not go, or ſtand, was ſo well anointed that he knew how to cut a Caper as well as his Companions Which I alſo ſaid to a Gentleman that told it to my Lord. He laughe [...] heartily, ſaying, I proteſt this Hollander is an excellent Surgeon.

The Time drew on when all the Caravans fitted and made preparation for Iſpahan, which I greatly longed for. And to loſe no Opportunity that would make for it, I addreſſed my ſelf to my Patron humbly begging that I might have my Liberty, which at laſt h [...] aſſented to, on Condition I would be accountable to him for th [...] 150 Abas, which he told me he paid for me, refuſing to give it m [...] without. However he let me know privately by a third Perſon, tha [...] [Page] if I was deſirous to be free that I ſhould give him a certain Preſent,OCTOB. 1671. which was named. Finding now that I had ſuch means of gaining my ſweet Freedom, I applied my ſelf to Monſr. L. Fabritius, of whom I got ſo much Money as I thought would ſerv my Turn. With this Money I bought a good Perſian Horſe; but coming to preſent it, he had no liking to it, ſo that I was fain to buy another, which I thought might pleaſe him better; yet this he fancied no better than the former, ſo that I was fain to look out for another. The Perſian [Jockey] ſhow'd me another, and a ſtately Arabian Gelding,The Author obtains his Freedom. for which I was fain to give a greater Sum. As for the other two the Seller took them again for the ſame Money, for that is an Eſtabliſhed Rule in Perſia, that when ever a Man buys any ſuch Merchandiſe, to wit, Slaves, or Cattel, he may return it in 3 days, if it be not for his Turn. This ſatisfied my Patron very well and upon my delivering it, told me I might go when I ſaw conveniency.

On the 29th. of October I went about to take my leav of all my Friends and Benefactors. The many great Favours that were ſhown me from Hadzi Biram my former Patron, and the great Civility of his Lady obliged me above the reſt to perform that piece of Duty and manifeſt my thankfulneſs to them for their Bounty. When I came there I found my Patroneſs Altina at home, the reſt being all gone to bath as they do every day. My Patron himſelf was alſo abroad about his Affairs. My Patroneſs upon my coming in bad me welcom, having underſtood the reaſon of the Viſit: and ſeeing me ſtand at a diſtance, bad me ſit down, ſaying, her Husband would com home at Noon. Entring into ſom earneſt diſcourſe, ſhe asked me what my Maſter, the Ambaſſ. had given me for the ſervice I had don him, Nothing at all, Madam, ſaid I, but my liberty to famiſh, which I muſt certainly have don, if I had not been ſupplyed by your bountiful Goodneſs, to whom I have made bold to have recourſe, ſo often that I was aſhamed. Well, replies the good Gentlewoman, has he given you nothing, as a Corrolary for your Faithfullneſs? I ſhall do it my ſelf, upon condition you tell it to no perſon whatſoever; and with that fetched me a coſtly Jewel, and ſeveral pieces of Money, which far outvalued the Price I was ſold for. After a little diſcourſe ſhe deſired me to ſtay at Scamachy, and ſo renewed what ſhe had propounded to me at Derbent, to wit; that we ſhould go together for Moſcovia, and ſo for Holland; but [Page] I weighing the danger of the Coſacs, who ſtill moleſted the Caſpian Sea, durſt not reſolv thereupon, but deſired her to put that out of her mind. She perceiving me not at all flexible to imbrace her Propoſals, grew on a ſudden very Heartleſs and dejected, and with a deep ſigh ſaid, Well, I find my ſelf in deſpair of ever coming into Chriſtendom, yet the Will of GOD be don: and ſeeing you are reſolved to go for Iſpahan you would do well to take your Journey with my Husband, who intends if the ſeaſon prove good to ſet forward to morrow, very early. Incredible was my Joy to hear the news, that my Patron was to take the Journey ſo ſuddenly, who had an entire and unfeigned Love for me, as I have already ſhown. About 2 hours after my coming thither came my Patron himſelf, who underſtanding by my Patroneſs that I was com to take my laſt leav of him, bade me ſit down, and after a friendly welcom told me if I would go along with him to Iſpahan, he would bear my Charges. I accepted of his kind Offer, with all telling him, how that I was aſhamed of the freedom I had aſſumed to my ſelf in being a continual burthen and Charge to him: but ſince it was an intention of his to heap yet greater favours upon me, I pray'd him to admitt 2 more of my Countreymen into our Company, to wit, L. Fabritius and Chriſtian Brandt, who were redeemed by the Eaſt-India Company, upon the Interceſſion of Monſr. Termund, they bearing their own Charges: He made anſwer, John, for your ſake it ſhall be don althô there were Twenty of'em. When all was in a readineſs I went to give my Patroneſs the laſt Adieu, and obſerved that Tears ſtood in her Eies. William B. Klopper I would fain have had along with us, but he judged it better to ſtay with the Poliſh Legate, thinking to come that way, and thrô Moſcovia ſooner home, than by the Indies, the more becauſe he found himſelf unſound of Body, and very unfit to undertake ſo great a Journey, and after that ſo long a Voyage, and paſs the Line twice; thus with Tears we took our Leavs of each other, with order that who ſoever did firſt arrive at home ſhould give an account of the laſt Condition he left the reſt in. The ſame day that we left Scamachi I met with Meynder [...] Meyndertſz, who, as was ſaid in Pag. 258, being a Smith by his Trade, made Knives and Swords for his Patron at Bachu, and had continued ſo long in Slavery, this Place being the moſt noted in all the Countrey for Steel and Iron work, as Neurenburg in Germany, or Sheffield in England. His Maſter [Page] had tried all means poſſible both by Promiſes and Threats,OCT. 1671. to make him renounce Chriſtianity and imbrace Mahometaniſm. He was alſo redeemed at the Charges of the Eaſt India Company, and deſigned for Gammeron by way of Iſpahan, but he being not altogether provided for the Journey we could not get him along with us in the ſame Caravan.

CHAP. XXVII. Their departure out of Scamachi. The Countrey about Kaſily deſcribed and the manner of living of the Inhabitants. A Deſcription of the River Araxes. The Heath of Mokan, whither all the Banditti and Mutinous Perſons have recourſe. Abundance of Tortviſes near Balharu. The Poverty, yet contented Life of the People and Inhabitants there about. The Author ſet upon by Robbers. The Carravan Aſſailed and Plundered. A famous ſtone Bridge. The ſepulchre of Zeyde Tzeybrail. Arrival at Ardebil. The Situation of that Town. The bitter Cold. Great and raging Whirl-winds. Extraordinary good Wheat. The great Toll and Duty paid for Sheep. Seven and Fifty Towns within the Juriſdiction of Ardebil. A Deſcription of the City, of it's Streets, and of the Street of Strumpets, who are Poëteſſes and ordained to compoſe Hymns of Praiſe to the name of the Great Aly. Free Places within the City. The Markets and Shops. Sumptuous Mezids and Chappels.

ON the 30 dito, by Gods good Conduct we ſet forward, with the whole Caravan, which conſiſted of 2000 Men, or upwards, and about 1000 Camels and Horſes of Carriage. My Maſter alſo had 20 Horſes of his own in particular loaden with Cheſtnuts, for a Preſent to the King of Perſia, for one having any Matter, or Affair at Court never appears before either the Scach, or any ſubordinat Prince, empty handed. Our way was over very high and ſteep hills: amongſt which we found the Sepulchre of a great Perſian Saint called Pyr Mardechan, being at the foot of the Mountains of Faherlu. The Countrey here about lies waſte and deſart, there being neither Inhabitant, nor Proviſion to be had by the way, ſo that we made all the haſt we could to get the Carawanſera. This hard travailing was not very unwelcom to us, becauſe that the weather was cold, althô ſom of the Horſes being heavy loaden and tired were left behind. About the Evening we came to Kaſily where we took up our nights [Page] lodging. The Countrey round about Caſily is altogether barren and dry, except here and there ſome good paſturage, ſo that the manner of Living with the Inhabitants is like that of the Tartars, moving to and again over the face of the Countrey with their Wives, Children, Utenſils, Cattel, and what elſe they have, and when they ſet down pitch their Tents all in Rows, which they call Oſtak. During our travailing thrô this Countrey we could get litle elſe but Milk to refreſh our ſelves: however my Patron out of his Bounty would not ſuffer me to want for any thing, but imparted to me what he had as well Victuals to eat, as Wine to drink, which ſerved me for a good Breaſt-plate againſt the Cold.

Having ſtaid one night at Kaſily, we ſet forward and about 8 a clock the next evening came to a fair Village called Tzawaar, or Tzawat, as ſome call it, which is ſo much as to ſay, a Thorow-fare; becauſe that here is the Paſſage which brings over the grand River Araxes, and here every one is to ſhow his Paſport, out of fear that ſome Turks ſhould ſlip over with the Caravan, of whom the Perſian is alwaies jealous, and are conſtrained to take ſharp notice of every particular Perſon. At this place is a long Bridge made of Keels, and thwarted with maſſy Planks, that are faſtned together with great Bolt and Chains, which for better ſecurity is guarded with a good number of Soldiery. When we were tranſported over the ſaid River, we took our Nights-reſt in the Open-fields.

A Deſcription of the River Araxes.The River Araxes takes its head about the high Mountains between Schirwan and Mokan behind Mount Ararat, running North-eaſt till it finds the River Kur, or Cyrus, where it diſgorgeth it ſelf, about 39 degr. 54 min. Northerly latitude, where theſe two Rivers are incorporated. Kur, as it is vulgarly called, riſes in the Mountains of Georgia or Gurgiſtan. Araxes is reckoned to be one of the ſwifteſt Rivers in all Aſia, very deep and good Water. Araxes alſo receives ſeveral other noble Rivers, to wit, Caraſu, Senki, and Kerni Arpa; About the Mouth of Caraſu it is at the deepeſt, but about a league from Ordabath it makes a horriſonant roaring and a moſt hideous murmur, where it receives the floods of the famous Mochan, which River, as well as the Araxes, abounds with various kinds of Fiſh. The Banks which in moſt Places mount very high, are all grown ore with the ſhrub Gli [...]yrrhiza, a kind of Liquirice, as alſo Liquirice of the common [Page] kind, but far thicker than either the Spaniſh, German, NOV. 1671. or that which is brought from Moſcovia, for I have ſeen ſom of it that was thicker than my Arm.

On the 3 of November we travailed 5 leagues over the Heath of Mochan, and ſaw by the way many Hurdles and Boors Cottages, but durſt not call at any to provide our ſelvs with Refreſhments, being ſenſible of the perils, for hither are all thoſe ſent to Exile whom the Scach thinks good to baniſh, and hither reſort all the Mutineers; ſo that theſe like the Banditti in the Alps, render the way very unſafe and incommodous to travel, ſomtimes ſurprizing and aſſailing the Caravans, when they find themſelves of Force enough, or the Caravan too weak to withſtand'em.

On the 4th. dito, we ſet forward,Multitudes of Tortoiſes about Baltharu. and in the way found the River Baltharu, which for Greatneſs gives place to all the before named; but, for the Multitudes of Tortoiſes that are taken here about, no leſs famous nor inferiour to any other in all the ſurface of the Countrey. All along the Banks we ſaw holes and caves which thoſe Animals had made in the Sand, the ſhoar appearing like a Coney-borrough. Theſe Caves have their mouth or entrance alwaies to the Southward, where they lay their Eggs. On the Countrey through which this River ſoftly glides we ſaw ſeveral Cottages or Tents, as we did the day before, but found the Inhabitants harmleſs and very poor, yet merry and jocund, the Children were ſtark naked, and the Men and Woman had hardly cloaths enough to cover their middle. They received us in very friendly manner according to their ability, bringing us Milk for our ſelvs, and Provender for the Camels and Horſes, which they ſold at a very mean and inconſiderable Price, conſidering under what neceſſity we were then. This day we travailed 6 [Dutch] Leagues.

On the 5 we travailed about as far as we did the day before, but were fain to take up our Lodging under the great Canopy of Heaven, ſetting down with the whole Caravan, near ſom Water-pitts, where we found good paſturage for the Beaſts, conſidering the ſeaſon of the year.

The next day we found an end of the Heath Mokan, and had High-land to travail over, as the Mountains of Bethzyrvan, or Bethzyrum. This day we croſſed a ſmall River (if I well remember) 12 times, having a crooked or ſerpentine Courſe, which the Merchants [Page] of Scamachy for their Conveniency, had promiſed a conſiderable Sum of Money to ſom Ingenieurs to to make ſtreight, yet by reaſon of many intervening Hills, and thoſe moſtly of a hard rock could not be effected. At night we got the Village Schechmurat, where my Patron ſent me out to fetch ſom Spring-Water: but being about half an [Engliſh] mile without the Town was aſſail'd by 3 Robbers, who ſuddenly came running out upon me, having their Eies fixed my Armor; ſo that in all probability, that which I had for my Defence would have been my Death, if ſom belonging to the Caravan and ſent upon the ſame Errand, had not com in time to aſſiſt me; for I was almoſt out of breath with defending my ſelf, having my Back againſt the Ruins of an old Wall, which ſeemed to be the Relicts of ſom Watch-Tower. One of the 3 I had wounded very ſore on the Arm, but the other two breaking in proved too ſtrong for me: yet when they ſay the reſt com in and cloſe up with them, thought it better to make uſe of their Heels than their Hands.

On the 7th. we travailed over very hilly and montanous Ground, encamping that night in a Valley, which was waſt, and deſtitute of Inhabitants.

On the 8th. we came to a very fair and commodious Caerawanſera, built at the Charges of the Indian Traders, for the conveniency of their Caraevans: Here we intended to remain over night, but beginning to take our Reſt, were alarm'd upon a ſudden aſſault of a great Troop of Robbers, who fell upon the Caravan on every ſide, and plundered all they came at, that was of any value and portable; and althô we had timely notice to defend our ſelvs, yet they had got a conſiderable Booty, and made their eſcape without the loſs of any Perſon or the leſt damage. We therefore fearing that the incouragement and ſucceſs they had met with might embolden them to make up a ſtronger Troop, and conſequently our tarrying there might be very unſafe, it was unanimouſly concluded that we ſhould break up, and being fair Weather, purſue our Journey by travailing the night, as we did, and about 12 a clock came to Tzanle, which is a beautiful Town, but not fortified, where it was thought fit that we ſhould ſtay till the next morning: Tzanle is a Paradiſe in regard of it's pleaſant Situation; round about which is nothing to be ſeen, but Orchards, Gardens and Houſes of Recreation. Here we ſupplied our ſelvs [Page] with all neceſſarys & refreſhments, which we had for a very mean price.

On the 9th we found very bad travailing way and with great Difficulty, went over the Mountains of Trizetlu, out of which Mountains ariſeth the River Caraſu, and after it has encompaſſed many Mountains glides with a ſoft and gentle ſtream thrô the Valleys, till it finds the great Araxes, into which it diſgorgeth it's ſelf with an incredible noiſe. Near the Village Samian is a very famous Bridge,A famous ſtone Bridge. all of Stone, computed to be 450 Foot long, and withall very broad. This Bridge we paſſed over, and towards night came to Trabedar a Village ſeated in a pleaſant Landſhip, where we took up our Nights-lodging, but not our Nights-reſt, for we were horribly tormented with Fleas and Lice, that being (as in Scotland) the Countrey-Plague,Lice and Fleas. which I preſume comes from the Heat of the Cows-dung, that the Inhabitants dry and ſtow up in their Houſes, to uſe for Fewel.

The next day we broke up, and went thrô the Town Kelchera, which is about half an hours walking from Ardebil, where is the noble Mauſoleum, or Sepulchre of Zide Tzaybrail, the Father of Scech Sephy. This Tzaybrail was in his life time a man of a mean and ſlender Fortune, as well in Subſtance as Parts, but Sedredin his Grandchild willing to make him coëqual with his Father in the Calender, cauſed all his Bones to be gathered together and brought to this Shrine, which was erected to his perpetual Memory. The ſame Sedredin, alſo built that moſt ſumptuous Meſchaich, or Sepulchre within Ardebil, for Scech Sephy his Father. Certainly thoſe Bones of his Grandfather muſt have bin very emphatical and notedly eminent above all the Boors and Peſants Bones that had lay there a hundred years, that could now, almoſt reduced to Duſt, be diſtinguiſhed from the reſt: otherwiſe, thrice happy were his Neighbours who had kept him company ſo long a time, for it was hard if ſome Joynt or other was not canonized with the Anatomy of this Holy Tzerbail. However the Perſians very devoutly pay their Devotions at this ſacred Tomb, without much reſpect to the Matter. But in what manner thoſe Bones appear I could not ſee, althô I was ſhorn after the Perſian faſhion, and in my converſation with Hadſi Byram my quondam Maſter, uſed more like a Companion than a Servant, much leſs as a Slave, and was in general looked [Page] upon as an upright Muſulman. After we had reſted a litle at Kelcheran, we marched forward, and about 2 in the Afternoon came to Ardebil, Arrival at Ardebil. where my Maſter Hadſi Byram took up his Lodging in a Street called Kumbalum, being a very fair and well-provided Inn.

Ardebil, called alſo Ardevil, lies in 38 degr, and 50 min. in the Countrey of Adrilegizan, being ſeated in a round Plain, or Valley, environed on each ſide with very high Mountains, the greateſt where of is called Zebelahu, and much talked of in Perſia for its height. Thoſe Mountains, as they told me, which ly to the Weſtward, are all the Summer covered with Snow; but on the other ſide, thoſe that lie toward the Countrey of Kielan, the Air is more moderate and not altogether ſo cold. And by reaſon that theſe cold ſeaſons do not come gradually a [...] when the Winter Solſtice approaches, but caſually, and all on a ſudden ſo that there is no ordinal Viciſſitude, nor can be any faſt Calculation made, it renders the Place very unhealthy, eſpecially to Strangers, who are not uſed to ſuch ſudden Changes. However, I would not be ſo far miſconſtr'd, as to ſignify that there is no ſenſible difference between the Summer and Winter, for the Courſe of the Sun makes a noted alteration, and yet the Summer Colds ſeemingly more penetrating than thoſe in the Winter, for Now the Body is ſhut, and The [...] it is open, at what time they hold it more dangerous, but in the Approachment of the Winter more tolerable and better to be endured My Patron told me that ſom years before he took this Journey abou [...] April, taking with him 4 Slaves, whereof 3 were Strangers and unnacuſtomed to the aforeſaid Changes, died in this Place, but the other which had been brought up there abouts, ail'd nothing at all.

Strange Whirl-winds.But above all this are the Whirl-winds which come every day about noon very remarkable, being as conſtant as the Suns comming to South▪ or as the Tides that are regulated according to the Courſe of the Moon This ſaid Wind alwaies riſes at 12 a clock, and continues ſomwhat more than an hour, during which time it is not ſafe to hold either Eies or Mouth open, by reaſon of the Sand, which is hurried about with that Violence and Thickneſs that the Air is darkned; that very much annoy the Inhabitants, who are not only fain to keep within Doors all the while it continues, but muſt take care to cover all that may be damnify'd, and make every thing faſt, which is light or apt to be carried away, and beſides that 3 or four times a year bea [...] [Page] away all the ſand and duſt which lies about the Houſes. By reaſon of this Cold, no Oranges, Lemmons, nor the Uſefull Vine will take or like there, only Apples and Pears they have, which were but juſt ripe when we were there, and as they ſay have no Bloſſoms till May or June: but without the Mountains it is very warm; and affoards good Plenty of the aboveſaid Fruits.Good Wheat and Bread. The arable Ground here is very fertile, except where it is ſuffocated with the Sand that the Whirl-winds bring about, and Wheat is both good and cheap, for having order from my Patron to buy ſom Bread, I had 12 Loavs, weighing each 4 po [...]ds, for the Value of an [English] Shilling, and that very white and good Bread.A great Toll impoſed upon Sheep. In this part of the Countrey is alſo very good Paſturage, which is no ſmall Profit to the Schach, or King, who has impoſed a Toll of Four pence half penny for every Sheep, great and ſmall, that paſſes the Bridge which by reaſon of the vaſt Flocks and great Inclination of the People to bring up Cattel brings up yearly an incredible ſum of Money. At that time when I was there, were Commiſſioners appointed by the King himſelf, althô 2 years before it was farmed out, and the King coming to underſtand what large Profits ſuperabounded to the Farmers, thought good to bring that Remnant into his own Coffers, as a Corolary. One of thoſe ſaid Commiſſioners, being an old Acquaintance of my Patron, told him that when they turned over the Accounts they had found Toll taken for above 700000 Sheep, between March and September, which amounts to more then 26000 lb. Sterl. which is conſiderable for the bare paſſage only; but far greater is the Toll which is impoſed on every Sheep that is ſold. Within the Juriſdiction of Ardebil lie 57 Villages and Hamlets, and thoſe ſo cloſe together, that the Town is eaſily ſupplied with plenty of Lactuaries, or what elſe the Land affoards.

Ardebil is a very great Town, but not cloſe built, for every eminent Houſe has a Garden or Orchard behind it. At this day it lies without Walls, Trenches and other Muniments. It is watered with one ſmall Rivulet, which they call Baluchlu, taking its firſt ſpring from the Mountains of Scamaſchu, about 6 miles to the Southward of Ardebil. Before the Town it divides its ſelf into two Channels, the one running into the Town, and ſo forward till it finds the Caraſu. This River is [Page] ſomtimes very ſmall, eſpecially in the Summer, but about March and April when it ordinarily rains very hard, with the Snow and concurrency of the Water that ſettles off from the Mountains, ſwells to an [...] incredible bigneſs. and overruns the Banks, ſo that againſt this time they uſually make a Catarract, or Dam, which diverts it from the Town, and upon negligence, or want of due Repair of the ſame, the Town is in danger of being loſt, as in the time of Schach Abas the great [...] the Dam being not ſufficient, the Waters came with that ſuddenneſs from the Mountains, that it made an irruption and waſhed away a great part of the Town, the Houſes being moſtly built of Clay and a ſort o [...] Brick. In this unexpected Innundation they record many Men and Cattle to have been carried away with the violence of the Floods. I [...] Ardebil are 5 Capital Streets, to wit, Derwanſche, Tabar, Niardouve [...] Kumbolan and Keſerkuſte: all theſe were very ſtately and broad, being pla [...] ted with rows of Aſh, Teil-or Linden-Trees which is very pleaſan [...] and cool in hot weather. Beſides theſe 5 great Streets, are alſo many fai [...] ones, but narrower and not beplanted with Trees, whereof the chie [...] are, Bander chan, Kamankar, Degme Daglir, and Urſumi Mahele, famous (or to ſay more properly, infamous) for Whores, who have here their Reſidence, and ply all over the Town, and in the Carawanſeras, and are reckoned as a Corporation or Gild. Theſe are all Poeteſſes by Occupation, ſom Compoſing Elogies and Hymns in the Praiſe of A [...] and Hoſſeyn, others do make Encomiums, ſetting out the Noble Deeds of the Scach, and others dance naked before the Chan. &c. Theſe of all that ever I have ſeen in my Life are the moſt impudent, and ſenſual, for they perceiving me to be a Stranger, peſter'd me as I wen [...] along the Streets, and gave me work enough to keep their Hands ou [...] of my Codpiece. Moreover ſo ſenſual and beaſtly have I obſerved then to be by their Converſation with young-men, who are not ſhie, or it the leſt aſhamed althô at noon day in the middle of the Street, that ſhould not willingly uſe that immodeſty to relate all I have ſeen. Ther [...] are alſo ſeveral Squares and Plains with Piazzas and Galleries round about, in and under which are very rich ſhops.

The Place of Refuge.They have alſo a Place of Refuge whither Malefactors betake themſelvs, at the Entrance whereof is an Oratory or Chappel, in which lie interred the Body of a reputed Saint. But the Delinquent fearing himſelf unſafe can eaſily gain the great Sanctuary of Scech Sephys Meſcaich [Page] or Sepulchre whence the King himſelf ſhould want the Heart to fetch him out by force. Coming from this Maydan or Sanctuary, you com to the Baſar, or great Market-plain.The Market and Maydan. On this Plain is reared a very magnificent and ſumptuous Building, four ſquare, in which, as in our Exchanges, are ſold all manner of coſtly Wares and rich Merchandizes, as Cloth of Gold and Silver, Jewels, Precious Stones, Tapeſtry, Silks, &c. This Place they call the Kayſery. Behind this you find three Streets, almoſt arched over, in which there are many Shops ſtored with Wares of leſs value. The Carawanſeras, or Inns, of Ardebil are very numerous, and thoſe frequented each with a diſtinct ſort of People, as Turks, Tartarians and Indians, who ſojourn to and again, upon the account of Merchandiſe. In Ardebil are many fair Metzids, or Temples, whereof one they call Adine ſurpaſſes all the reſt, being founded upon the Top of a Hill in the middle of the Town, and beſides that graced with a pompous Tower, which outbraves all the reſt in the City, rearing its Top aloft to an exceeding great Height. This Temple is thought worthy only to be viſited on Fridays, which according to the Inſtitution of Mahomet is their Sabbath; and from hence it has it's name. Before this Temple is a Fountain brought by an Aqueduct from a Place about 5 [Engliſh] miles without the City, at the Charges of Muhamed Riſa the Rochtaf, or Chancellor of Perſia. The deſign thereof is that every one willing to viſit the Holy Sepulchre muſt firſt waſh himſelf there.

CHAP. XXVIII. Hadzi Byram goes to perform his Religious Duties at the Sepulchre of Zeyde Tzebrail. The Author begs of his Lord, that he may be Spectator of the Ceremonies, which at laſt after many intreaties is granted. A Deſcription of that noble Mauſoleum. Famous Baths in Ardebil. The Sulphurous Baths whither the Author accompanies his Patron. The manner of uſing thoſe Baths. The ſtupendious and ſumptuous Sepulchre of Scach Sephy deſcribed. The great Zeal and Devotion of Hadzi Byram. The Oratory, or Houſe of Prayer, where (as they ſay) Schach Sephy prayed and faſted for 40 Days together without Intermiſſion, uſing only a Cup of Water every day. Doors covered with Plates of Gold by Schach Abas. The Library and Repoſitory of the Ʋtenſils for the Kings Table. The Garden or Yard where the Perſian Kings lie interred. The names of the 12 Kings [Page] that lie there buried. The Revenues belonging to this Meſar, or ſepulchre. Som faſt Revenues. Ardebil a famous Mart.

UPon the 13 my Patron Hadzi Byram, who was a very zealous devout Mahometan, went to perform his Devotion at the H. Sepulchre of Zide Tzaybrail, in Kelcheran, having firſt well provided himſelf with Faſting and the Bath. I pray'd him alſo that he would pleaſe to take me with him, but he poſitivly refuſed, ſave of this Anſwer he gave me, John, if you will indeed becom a Muſulman I am freer you ſhould go, than ſtay behind, but it is not lawful to bring a Chriſtian thither to pollute that moſt Holy ſpot of Ground. O Sir, replied I, why cannot I waſh my ſelf as clean as a Muſulman? and why ſhould it be thought that I pollute the Place, ſince I leav nothing at all behind me but what I find there? All this would not prevail with him, but rather ſeemed to incite him to anger, ſo that being unwilling to purchaſe his diſpleſure to pamper my ſelf with ſuch an unprofitable curioſity, I thought fit for that time to deſiſt. But the next morning finding him in a pleaſant humor I renewed my requeſt and he aſſented, thô conditionally, as, Firſt, to keep ſilence all the time, ſince I was not perfect in the Dialect, and ſo might com to be diſcovered; Secondly, not to ſtare any Perſon fully in the Face; and Thirdly, to act for Changeling in caſe any Body came to queſtion me, Fools and Madmen being with them reputed Holies, for they are of Opinion that all men have an equal underſtanding, and that thoſe, who are either Mad or Fooliſh imploy the reſt of their Senſes in a Divine and Celeſtial Contemplation, or Converſe with Angels.

A Deſcription of the Sepulchre of Zide Tzaybril.The Grave or Tomb ſtood in the midſt of a ſpacious Court, and built round; above all was a round Tower, which was covered with Blew and Green Stone glazed, which made a moſt gorgeous ſhow. It was raized high, ſo that we muſt aſcend 10 ſteps before we enter. Being com to the Threſhold my Patron made there certain Prayers, that don he gave the Sign that he would be in, upon which one of the Hafiſans, or Waiters came out, who demanded of him his Sable and Boots, and of me my Truncheon, which he ſhut up in a litle Chamber: my Patron then having given him a piece of money in the Hand, and ſo we both went in bare-foot. The Floor was all laid with Tapeſtry, the Roof and Walls were painted Blew, illuſtrated [Page] here and there with Flowers of Gold, which made it look with a great ſplendor; the Glaſs in the Windows was of divers colours like as in old Chriſtian Churches, and I preſume don by the ſame Art, which ſom will needs ſay is loſt. On the ſides were ſeveral litle Chambers and Appartments, which alwaies ſtand open. Here ſit ſeveral Doctors, who are to inſtruct Youth in the Alchoran, as alſo to read and to ſing, that ſo they may be fit to ſerve in that holy Function, and adminiſter at the ſacred Tomb. Here and there were ſeveral Chairs whereon lay ſom pieces of the Alchoran. In the Middle of all ſtood the ſaid Tomb, being about a Mans height raiſed above ground, 6 Foot long, and proportionably broad. It was of pure Gold and laid in with Flowers and Foliage of Silver, which was very artificially don. Above the Tomb under a Canopy of Blew Silk hung 4 Lamps, 2 of Gold, and 2 of Silver, which every night are lighted by certain Attendants which they call Tzirachtſchikan. When my Patron approached to the Grave the Waiters took off the Covering, which was of green Velvet, upon which after he had mumpled over certain Prayers bowed himſelf, puſhed with his head againſt the Tomb, kiſſed it, and ſo ſtepping backwards, was met at the door by one of the Hafiſans who gave him the Benediction, and ſo diſmiſſed him. When he was com to the Carawanſera, concluded this Devotion with a ſumptuous and an Epicurean Banquet, with Drinking, Dancing and Whoring, ſo that it may eaſily be perceived that the extreme and furtheſt Hope they have, who are the greateſt Zelots in Turciſm is only for libidinous Enjoyments, and to obtain their fill of voluptuous Pleſures and ſenſual Delights in the World to com, as by an implicit Faith they are induced to beleeve.

In Ardebil are many excellent Hot-baths, which bring in no ſmall profit to the Owners; my Maſter alſo made frequent uſe of the ſame, as well out of a ſuperſtitious Zeal, as for conſervation of Health. But about 3 [Dutch] miles without Ardebil are certain Hot wells, proceeding from a ſulphurous quality of the Earth; Theſe are exceeding hot, and may not be touched; ſo that round about are ſeveral Baths and Fountains which are tempered with the hot water being convey'd thither in Pipes and Conduits. Theſe Baths ſo tempered are reputed very good againſt the Itch, Biles, and other external Grievances and Sores, and as ſom have found uſefull againſt internal [Page] Diſtempers, as was adviſed my Patron by a Doctor at Scamachy to make uſe of it for a weakneſs in his joints.

On the 16 my Maſter ſet out to go to theſe Baths and asked me to go with him, bidding me take a Horſe, ſo that I was as well mounted as he himſelf: he took with him 3 Slaves with an Aſs to carry clean Linnen, Meat, and Wine, with other Refreſhments. A little before we came at thoſe Wells, we ſmelled a ſtrong ſmell of Brimſtone, and heard the Water bubble up and boil. We ſaw alſo ſmoke and vapours that roſe in many places from the Water, which made me very faint. The chiefeſt of thoſe Wells is called Grandauſch, but this my Maſter thought not fit for him to uſe, but went to another called Serdebe, which nevertheleſs is reputed the beſt Water, and was therefore roofed over with a ſtately Arch, at the Charges of the Grand Chancelor Tzulpharachan. Among the Slaves that my Patron had was an old Greek, for whom he had a great kindneſs, and uſed him more like a Brother than a Servant. So ſoon as he was uncloathed this Greek rubbed his Body with a Towel, till he was all over red, then he ſtepped into the Bath, where for ſome time he ſat to the neck in Water, and then coming out dried himſelf, took a draught of very ſtrong Wine, and away again into the Bath, which having done 2 or 3 times together he clothed himſelf and rode away to a Carawanſera, where the Day before he had beſpoke a warm Bed, in which he lay him down and ſtayd over night. The next day betimes in the Morning we rode back to Ardebil, where he kept his Bed for ſom days following.

Deſcription of the famous ſepulchre of Scach Sephy at Ardebil.On the 20th. I went with my Patron to ſee the moſt noble Sepulchre of Schach Sephy. My ſaid Patron alſo prepared himſelf for this, as he did to viſit the other at Kelcheran, by Faſting and Prayer. This famous Mauſoleum erected to the memory of Scach Sephy, and now the Burying Place of other Perſian Kings lies near the Maydan. Before this pompous Sepulchre ſtands a fair Gate of rich Marble, in which is ſhown an Admirable Skill in Architecture. Within this Port or Gate hang two Maſſy Silver Chains athwart each other like Feſtons: thoſe they ſay were beſtowed on this Place by the Chan of Meggura, for a Monument of his Zeal. Having entred this Gate we came into a fair and ſpacious Court all paved with ſquare Stones and poliſhed Porphyr; round about on each ſide were Arches, as Piazzas, under [Page] which were ſhops of all ſorts of Haberdaſhery Wares and Toys. After this we went thrô another Gate far more beautifull than the former, and within this was a fair Garden, and indeed one of the faireſt I had hitherto ſeen; It was planted with all manner of Flowers and Herbs that might delight the Eie and Noſe, and all kinds of delicious Fruits to ſerve the Palat. Every Man has his freedom to walk and recreate himſelf, but upon a very ſtrict penalty not to pluck either Flower or Fruit. I was told how that 5 years before my being there, a drunken Perſian had hewn down a great bough with his Scymiter, but being taken was immediatly beheaded with the ſame Weapon. In this Gate hung alſo another great Silver Chain, which was given by the Chan of Kentzay. Here they demanded our Weapons, which being delivered, my Patron went forward to another Gate, which entring he fell down and kiſſed the Threſhold, withall charging me not to touch it with my Feet, leſt I ſhould pollute that which many thought worthy a long Pilgrimage to com and kiſs: he told me alſo that it was a favour greater than ordinary, that I being a blind ignorant Chriſtian and an Infidel ſhould be admitted to pry into ſo glorious a Sanctuary. I was heartily content to obey his Will, rather than to deny my Curioſity, and followed him cloſe at the Heels, leſt coming into ſom Labrynth I ſhould looſe my Life by the Loſs of my Maſter. The next Place we came into was a ſtately Gallery, or rather an Antichamber, arched croſs wiſe, and neatly plaiſtered. On the right hand as I went in was a great Silver Cock which ran with Water that was conveyed thither by leaden Pipes from a fair Fountain about 4 [Engliſh] miles without Town. Right over againſt this is another Apartment paved with green and blew glazed ſtones: and on the Floor was ſpread a very rich Carpet: in the middle ſtood two huge Silver Candleſticks about 8 or 9 Foot high; round about were Seats as in our Chores, wherein ſat ſeveral Prieſts all in white Stoles, who ſung all the time, keeping good Harmony, and at the End of every Verſicle bowed all alike, one to another. This Place is called Tzichillachane, the Chappel or Oratory of the King; ſo called by reaſon of the 40 days, which the Perſians affirm that Scach Sephy ſpent here at one time, in Faſting and Prayer, not uſing any thing all that time, ſave only a Cup of Water once a day. Leaving this place we went into another Gate where a Silver Chain hung, [Page] that was preſented by Aly Chan. The Parlour, or Hall into which we now came was all paved and laid in with a ſplecked Stone; The Building its ſelf was round, like a Theatre; the Doors were laid over with Silver Plates and had two great Silver Rings like Wreaths▪ or Torſes. At the Entrance lay a coſtly and large Carpet, where we were to pull off our Boots, without which, none is admitted to go in, no not the King himſelf, who ſomtimes to be a Praecedent and Example of Zeal, pulls off his Boots at the firſt Gate, but that, [...] ſeems, is held to be a Work of Supererogation. From hence we wen [...] to another Magnificent Hall, thrô a Gallery, the Pavement where of was covered with rich Tapeſtry. The Doors of this ſaid Hall we [...] covered with Plates of Gold, which was don at the Charges of the Schach Abas, who had made a vow to do it, in caſe he returned hom [...] with Triumph, when he went on an Expedition againſt the Ʋſbequ [...] in Choraſan, as he did, and vanquiſhed the Rebels. This Hall is n [...] ſo ſpacious as beautifull by far, the Roof being no more than 48 Foo [...] long, and 30 broad. In the middle hung ſeveral Gold and Silver Lamp [...] and on each ſide ſate 12 Prieſts, each having a low Stool before him on which lay ſo many Parchment Books, containing ſeveral Legend of the Alchoran, which they read and ſung by Turns. Leavin [...] this Place we went into another which was ſeparated and environe [...] with Silver Rails, and had 3 Aſcents or Steps to go up of ſolid Silve [...] This is the laſt and chief Oratory, or Houſe of Prayer, where o [...] Patron pray'd with very great Zeal. From hence we aſcended int [...] another Place, which was one Step higher, and ſeparated with maſ [...] Grate-work all of pure Gold and wreathed, behind this was t [...] Tomb of Schach Sephy, which was of fair Marble, being about 3 Fo [...] high, 9 Foot long and 4 broad. It was covered with a Carpet [...] Crimſon Velvet, richly embroidered and laid in with precio [...] Stones. Above hung ſeveral Lamps, and on each ſide 2 huge Candl [...] ſticks, all of ſolid Gold: theſe are lighted every Evening and bu [...] all the Night long. The Door of this Place is opened for no Secul [...] or Temporal Perſon or Perſonage, nor for the King himſelf. Ne [...] this Tomb we ſaw alſo the Tombs of Schach Iſmaël, of Sephys, an [...] of ſom Queens, all which were only ſupplyed with Curtains, an [...] void of curious Work and Ornament. Leaving the Sepulchre w [...] went out at a door on the Right Hand, that led into the Libra [...] [Page] which was very ſpacious, yet without any Pillar. Here are kept all the Ancient Records of Perſia, with abundance of Manuſcripts in the Chaldean, Perſian, Arabic and Syrian Tongues, the Books were piled up one above another and moſt of them adorned with Gold and Silver; whence I concluded that they were more for ſhow, than for dayly uſe and recourſe. In this ſaid Library were ſeveral leſs Appartments, where were many Porceline Diſhes, Cups and other Utenſils, for the Kitchin and Table, which are uſed when the King or any other great Perſonage comes to Eat there, whereas they ſay it is not conſiſtent with the Humility they profeſs, to be ſerved in Gold or Silver: the more becauſe that the great Schach Sephy himſelf did eat altogether out of Wooden Diſhes. From hence we went out and came into the Kitchin, the Doors whereof were covered with Silver Leavs by the aforeſaid Schach Abas, and the Room within very neat and handſom. The Cooks were all the time very ſtill and quiet, as if it were ſom Religious Duty they were about, and each one according to his Office had a place allotted him, to wit, thoſe that roaſted and thoſe that boiled, baked, fried, ſtewed, &c. each by themſelvs. The Cauldrons were ſet faſt in the Walls, and the Water they uſed was brought ſom Miles by an Aqueduct, and let in by Silver Cocks. In this Kitchin is provided Victuals for more than a Thouſand People, one day with another, to wit, Prieſts, Pilgrims, and other Poor People which have here their Maintenance. They eat three times a day, at 6 in the Morning, at 10 before, and 3 in the afternoon. The two firſt Meals were given by Schach Sephy, and the laſt at the Charges of the preſent King. Before the Meals do begin, they beat 2 Kettle-drums, which they ſay their great Prophet Mahomet made uſe of when he was in the Camp, and were brought from Medina by Schach Sedredin. They have not much variety in their Diet, and uſe moſtly Rice and Mutton, which is diſtributed very liberally to all the Appendents, who ſeldom com ſhort but leav of their Commons.

Coming out of this famous Kitchin, we went into a large Court where were interred 12 Perſian Kings, to wit,

1 Schach Sephy, the Son of Tzaybraïl.

2 — Sedredin the Son of Sephy.

3 — Tzinid the Son of Sedredin.

[Page]4 Sultan Aider the Son of Tzinid. Whoſe Skin the Turks dre [...] over his Head, whilſt alive.

5 Schach Ayder, the Second.

6 — Iſmaël, the Son of Aider.

7 — Tamas, the Son of Iſmaël.

8 — Iſmaël the Second, Son of Tamas.

9 — Muhamed Choddabende, Brother of Iſmaël.

10 — Iſmaël Myrſa, Sons of Choddabende.

11 — Hemſe Myrſa, Sons of Choddabende.

12 — Abas. Sons of Choddabende.

This noble Mauſoleum or Place of Sepulture was erected by a ver [...] famous Architect of Medina, with whom Schach Sedredin covenate [...] to build it. The Perſians ſay that he had the Model out of Heave [...] Above the Door ſtand theſe words in their manner of Rhymin [...] which jingles better than in Engliſh: Whoſoever is of a pure Heart [...] him enter in and pray to GOD, ſo ſhall his Sins undoubtedly be pardoned. The fir [...] Part which the ſaid Sedredin had built was very magnificent a [...] ſtately, but that which was added to it by Tzinid appears far mo [...] ſplendid, both in regard of the curious Architecture, in which A [...] ſeems to ſport, and in the Conveniency, and Proſpect from afar.

Revenues of the Sepulchre.The Revenues of this Sepulchre are very great, what with t [...] large Gifts which were given by the famous Sedredin at the Inaug [...] ration thereof, and what by the Ample Donations that have be [...] liberally beſtowed by other Kings and Princes from time to time ſin [...] it's firſt Foundation, not only of the Perſians themſelvs, but al [...] of Indians, Tartars and others that are of the Sect of Aly: which commonly don upon Sickneſs, Expedition of War, Dangero [...] Journeys, and the like, upon which they make Vows to beauti [...] this Holy Structure with ſome ſignal Ornament, or put ſomthi [...] into the Treſury. There are alſo other Revenues accrewing to th [...] Place, bequeathed by Teſtament, as if it were Remitted by Bills [...] Exchange to the Souls of the Departed, for they reckon, that ſu [...] Gifts will redound to the welfar of their Souls. Nor do ſuch Don [...] tions ſolely conſiſt in Money, but in Cattle, Utenſils, Moveables an [...] Merchandiſe. The Cattle ſo beſtowed is committed to Herdsm [...] for that end imployed, and improved, except ſuch as is fit for Slaug [...] ter, other Things are ſold and the Money thrown into the Treſu [...] [Page] The Pilgrims that Offer any thing here, be it more or leſs have a Maniple of Conſecrated Anniſe given them, together with a Certificat, that they have viſited and offered at this Holy Place. This Ticket or Schedule they call Syaretname, which is kept and ſhown by the Party, upon Occaſion, who is thereby capable to ſerve the King in certain Offices ſuitable to the Value of what he offered: althô the Commiſſioners ſomtimes willing to favour any indigent Perſon, have the Opportunity to raiſe their Fortunes by granting them ſuch a Billet, or ſetting a greater Value upon upon the Offering; ſo that there is Cheating as well in thoſe Sacred Functions, as in Temporal Negotiations.

The faſt Revenues of this Meſchair that are ſettled in the Town of Ardevil, is the Rent of 200 Dwelling Houſes, 9 Hamans, The faſt Revenues of the Sepulchre. or Hot-baths, 8 Carawanſeras, the Maydan, with all the Buildings and Shops round about; as alſo the Kayſery, or Exchange, 100 Shops in the Baſar. The Toll and Impoſitions of all Merchandiſes whatever. Of the 57 Villages that are within the Juriſdiction of Ardebil. 33 accrew to this Sanctuary, and 5 in the Province of Serab. In the City Tabris it hath 100 Dwelling-Houſes, and the like number of the moſt eminent Shops in all the Town, and 2 Villages within the Juriſdiction of the ſame. In Caſwin are ſeveral Carawanſeras and Baths, as alſo in Kilan, Aſtrarath, and Mokan, beſides many other Revenues that are ſettled upon it in divers Provinces, which could I have given an account of, would fall too taedious, and tire the Patience of my Reader; ſo that it's probable that this incredible Treaſure, which from time to time is accumulated, upon this (reputed) Sanctuary muſt needs exceed the Royal Treſury it ſelf, and has alwaies more ready Money gathered ſo from a ſuperſtitious Zeal, than the King is able to levy and paralel with all the Impoſitions within his Realm and Dominions.

Beſides this famous and moſt pompous Royal Sepulchre; Ardebil flouriſhes mainly in Traffic and Merchandiſe, for hither throng all the Traders of Giſtan, Georgia, Kurdiſtan and other Countreys; Beſides the Profit that the Citizens do receive from the continual concourſe of ſtrangers and Pilgrims from Places both near and remote. It is alſo a great Thorow-fare from the Northern Regions to [...]ſpaban and receivs a conſiderable Benefit of Caravans and Paſſengers, who [Page] commonly ſtay here ſom time. Twice a week is their Market, at what time abundance of Peſants com to Town; uſing Oxen and Kine inſtead of Sumpter-horſes to carry their Goods. Laſtly this City is very famous in regard of its Antiquity, being in times paſt the Royal Seat of Perſia, as it was before the Warrs of Alexander of Macedonia, who had here his Reſidence, as they averr and prove by many undeniable Tokens, beſides the Language of their Records, which if we may take upon Credit [as why not] do ſufficiently teſtifie it.

CHAP. XXIX. The Author taken for a Perſian, which gave him occaſion to ſee all that was worthy of remark. The Caravan leavs Ardebil, and goes over the famous Mountain Taurus. The Head of the River Kiſiloſeyn. Bad and uneaſy Travelling by reaſon of ſteep Rocks. Peril of Robbers. Arrival at Sultanie. Keydar Pey-Amber, a wonderfull high Mountain. Sultanie it's Situation and by whom built. Emarath, the Noble Palace of King Choddahende. The Temple of Schach Iſmaël. The preſent decaying State of [...]ultany. The Author ſhorn and habituated after the Perſian Manner. Pleaſant Dales and Valleys. Arrival at Caſ [...]in. The Situation of that Place. The Court of Schach Tamas. The Place of Convention or Exchange of Whores. The Common Place of Sepulture and Metzid of Scach Beſlade, the Son of Hoſſeyn, by which the Perſians ſwear. The Offering of a Camel.

FOurteen Days we ſtaid in Ardebil, during which time I had leiſure to ſee what was worthy of Remark, and Opportunity beſides, being apparreled like a Perſian ſo that none diſtruſted me to be a Muſulman, but allowed me acceſs over all. When theſe 14 days were expired, the Caravan made preparation to break up, and purſue the Journey for Iſpahan, for which end many freſh Camels and Horſes were taken in. When the Caravan was ready, we obſerved that the Company was conſiderably increaſed with new Paſſengers and Merchants.

On the 25 by ſound of Trumpet all was warned to joyn themſelvs with the Caravan, that intended for [...]ſpahan; and accordingly left Ardebil and came to Buſun which lies about 14 Miles from Ardebil, where we ſtaid that night.

The day following we broke up, and had that day a very rocky and [Page] uneaſy Way, inſomuch that moſt, or all, allighted from their Horſes and Camels and went a foot. By the way we met ſeveral Troops of Robbers, who probably had underſtood what a Prey and Purchaſe we had, yet finding the Caravan ſo very numerous durſt not aſſail us. At night we came to Sengoa a beautifull Village, where we had very good Wine, and made our ſelvs merry, but not to exceſs, for that is in general odious to the Perſians. Here I ſaw the beſt Beauties and moſt comly Faces that I have ſeen in all Perſia: their Women ſeem to have a greater Liberty than in moſt places, where they do not only go covered abroad, but are alſo denied the converſe with Men; for here they go bare with their Face, and are very familiar with thoſe of the Maſculine Gender, and if I be not miſtaken were too familiar with ſome, who within a few daies after began to ſcratch their Heads, and this is the firſt time I knew that the Perſian Women underſtood French. In ſum, our Company enjoy'd themſelvs here ſo contentedly and well, that ſom of'em thought the Sun had miſtaken himſelf and was riſen an hour too ſoon.

The day following leaving Sengoa, we had high and rocky way, but towards the Evening came into a moſt ſweet and pleaſant Dale or Plain, through which a River glided very ſwiftly. This Valley was very pleaſant, and notwithſtanding the ſeaſon, appeared as if it were in May. This River is called Kiſ [...]loſeyn, having a very fair Stone Bridge over it, over which we paſſed and pitched on the South ſide, in the open Field, for there were no Houſes to be ſeen.

On the 28th. we broke up and went over the famous Taurus, being a very rough and dangerous way, inſomuch that all the Company were fain to allight and lead their Camels and Horſes, till we came into a Valley where we took our Reſt for an Hour, or two. This Valley is very deep and a Neſt of Robbers and Vagabonds, who find many lurking Places to hide themſelvs in, out of which they aſſail and ſurpriſe Travailers, if they think themſelvs ſtrong enough: but we, as was ſaid before, being increaſed to a conſiderable Number knew our ſelvs ſufficiently out of peril. Out of this Valley ariſeth the River Kiſiloſeyn, which running very ſwiftly and beating thorow the Rocks makes a very hideous Murmur, ſo that one cannot hear another ſpeak: thus receiving as it were inlargement runs through the Champain Countrey of K [...]lan, and thence is hurried with an admirable [Page] celerity into the Caſpian Lake, into which it empties it ſelf. On the Banks of this River is a Village bearing the ſame name, where is a fair Stone Bridge of 9 Arches, or Bows. All along the Way ſide grow great plenty of Almond, Cypreſs and other Trees, which ſerved us all the way in ſtead of Paraſols: but when we were come over the River found the Way very bad, being forced to clamber over Rocks, the Path being ſo narrow that only one Camel at once could go on it. On each ſide were many great Clefts and deep Caves, which with the rattling of the Horſes feet made a dreadfull and horrid Eccho; and being come to a place which was the fulleſt of thoſe Caverns, all the Company gave a Shout, which with an Eccho reſounded from one Place to another, that it ſeemed as if there had been 10 or 12 Troops of Men in ſo many ſeveral Places calling to one another. On this way it happened that a Camel broke the Leathers wherewith his Pack was faſtened to the Crutchet or Saddle, being juſt at the Brink of a wide and deep Pit, where no Bottom could be ſeen. It coſt the Slaves who attended him much labour to ſave him, and were in ſtruggling once in great hazard themſelvs of tumbling down, Camel and all, yet at laſt, with loſs of the Pack which in ſpite of all they could do fell down, they got clear. The Pack was very rich, and the loſs thereof ſo concerning to the Merchant, that if others had not hindred him he had thrown the Slaves after it, for their Negligence. This ill way much detarded us on this Days Journey, for we were more than 5 Hours in travailing one Mile. Being got over this bad way we found a Village where it was deſigned that we ſhould take our nights reſt; The name of the Town was Keyntze, being very poor and not in a Condition to ſupply us with ſuch Neceſſaries as we deſired for our Money.

On the 29 we broke up, and had that day very good way, coming at night to the village Hortzimur, where we were very ill at eaſe being cold Weather and the Place not able to ſupply us with Houſe-room.

The next day leaving Hortzimur we travailed thrô a very dry and barren Heath, meeting by the way with ſom Robbers, who being but few in number durſt not make any attempt upon us: However night coming upon us here, we were fain to ſet down on the Heath, and for fear of Robbers forced to watch all night, but were ſo benummed with cold that we many times wiſhed for break of day.

[Page]On the firſt of the next Moneth we came into a litle City called Senkan, which is reputed the beſt Refreſhing place between Derbent and Iſpahan, there being plenty of Oranges, Lemmons, Pomegranats, Melons, divers ſorts of huge Grapes and many other Fruits then out of ſeaſon. Veal and Mutton was here very cheap, as alſo Bread. Thus finding Proviſion here very cheap, we bought what we thought neceſſary. As for the City it ſelf there is not much worthy of Remark about it, ſave onely a very fair and beautifull Metzid. It is ſituated in a Plain, and a flat Ground, but near the Town very barren and dry. It has been formerly a great Emporium, and flouriſhed more than 4 Centuries of years in Traffic and Commerce with the circumjacent Countreys, but ſince it was demoliſhed by the great Tamerlan, is ſo run to decay, that it is out of Hopes, ever to arrive to it's priſtin State.

On the 2 of Decemb. we ſet forward and came in good time to Sultanie, a City lying in 36 degr. and 30 min. Northerly Latitude. It is ſituated between two rows of very ſteep Mountains, and toward the Weſt we ſaw the Mountain Keydar Peyamber, whoſe lofty top ſeems to ſupport the Heavens, this being, next to Ararat, the higheſt Mountain I have ever ſeen. The City Sultany affoards a moſt noble Proſpect from abroad, by reaſon of her many lofty Piles, magnificent Churches, high Towers, Pyramids, Obeliſks and Cylinders which ſtill remain, notwithſtanding the furious Irruption of the ſavage Tartars under conduct of the valiant Tamerlan, who with many other Towns, laid this level with the Ground, ſave the great and ſtupendious Fabrics, even now remembred, which when one is within Town, look like a ſet of Nine-pins, or the Stones on Salisbury Plain: ſo that this which was reputed one of the Royal Cities is meaner than moſt villages. It was built by Sultan Choddabende a very rich and potent Prince, who beſides many famous Conqueſts in Perſia and Uſbec, ſubdued the greateſt part of Turky, and many Indian Kingdoms and Provinces, ſom of which ſtill remain under the ſubjection of the Schach of Perſia. This City he called Sultanie from the As Caeſarea from Caeſar. Honorary Title of Sultan, for ſo the Kings of Perſia who are now called Schach were of old entitled, as alſo at preſent the Ottoman Emperour. Notwithſtanding the aboveſaid devaſtation of this City appear yet many ſignal Monuments of it's former Glory; amongſt which is the ſplendid [Page] Court and Palace of the great Choddabende, DEC. 1671. called, The Emarath This was fortified on each ſide with ſtrong Walls and ſeveral grea [...] Bulwarks, altogether built of huge ſquare Stones of 3 Foot Diameter it had alſo 4 high Towers, but ſtrong and of neat Workmanſhip Within is a very noble Sepulchre built by Sultan Choddabende himſelf who lay here interred, but the too great Piety of his Succeſſor woul [...] not ſuffer his Bones to reſt, but removed them to the Meſchaich [...] Ardebil. In entring this Sepulchre one muſt paſs thrô three very hig [...] Gates all made of Indian Steel, very neatly poliſhed, and as ſmoot [...] as Glaſs, this being the ſame Mettal of which the Damaſkin, or Ard [...] bil Scymiters are made, and is praeferred before any other St [...] that is uſed. That Gate which leads out to the Maydan (as the Perſia [...] would perſwade themſelvs and us) cannot be opened by any Force, bu [...] when one prays to GOD, for the ſake of his Servant Aly, that may open, it opens of it's ſelf. The Building is very high, contractin [...] its ſelf at top into the manner of a Tower, and within is ſet wit [...] white and blew Tiles of Porceline. Above, where it begins to dra [...] its ſelf into the form of a Tower, is a Partition of Steel Barrs, whic [...] makes a handſom Chore. In this Partition or Quire I ſaw many Books, written in Arabic Characters, ſome whereof were above 30 Inches long, I opened one of them and found an interlineary change o [...] Gold and Black lines, like the Rubrics in the Roman Breviaries, L [...] turgies and Maſs books. Behind the Altar is the Tomb where Sult [...] Muhamed Choddabende lay interred but parted from the Body of th [...] Chore with great and maſſy Barrs of Indian Steel, which the Perſia [...] ſay was all of one piece, no place appearing where it might ſeem t [...] be well'd, or ſet together, and that it was ſeven years a making i [...] India. In this ſaid Emarath are 20 pieces of Braſs Ordnance, every Carridge having 4 wheels a piece, and the Balls lying by them o [...] white Marble, theſe are made (forſooth) for defence of the H. Sepulchre. The Tower above is 8 ſquare, and on each ſide a Gallery, an [...] upon each Gallery a ſmall Turret going up with Winding-ſtairs Before this Temple is a Fountain, the curious Work whereof ſhow [...] the great ſkill and dexterity of the Workman that ordained it: it receives its Water by an Aqueduct from the Keydar: and behind the Emarath is a very pleaſant Garden, with Walks and Rows of dive [...] ſorts of Trees.

[Page]Beſides this illuſtrious Pile of Sultan Choddabende is another built by Schach Iſmael the firſt. This is alſo to be aſcended by ſtairs. Within are ſeen many fair Pillars and Arches upon which the Roof leans,The Temple of [...]ſmael Sultan. and the inſide of the Walls is all laid with white and blew Tiles of Porceline. Right before the Door within the firſt Court ſtands a fair Pyramid of a reaſonable Height. There is alſo a very fair Pleſure-garden adjoyning to this Palace. Not far from thence is alſo a fair Arch, but ſomthing dilapidated reſting upon 2 Columns, or Obeliſks, 162 Foot Which is juſt 13 Foot lower than the Monunument lately erected near London Bridge, in memory of the ſad Conflagration in the year 1666. The Author ſhorn after the Perſian manner. high. About an [Engliſh] Mile and a half without Town are to be ſeen the Relicts of a Gate, which they ſay was built by Sultan Choddabende, whence it appears that the Extent of this City has been very great, althô, as was ſaid is now not very great, nor much frequented by Trading People, ſubſiſting moſtly by the Caravans, after which they long as greedily as a Landlord for Quarter day.

Five days we tarried in Sultante to reſt, having almoſt tired our Camels and Horſes, which by that time were again in a travailing Condition: During our aboad here I was ſhorn after the Perſian faſhion, and could paſs Muſter for a Muſulman, and with more freedom viſit what was worthy of remark and by them reputed ſacred; being thereto perſwaded by my Companion who was a Ruſs, called Ferrath, and that I might not be bewray'd by my ſpeech, he bad me counterfeit my ſelf dumb, and when occaſion ſerv'd to make ſigns, he taking upon him to interpret for me, which at once both ſecured me from Affronts, and gave me the occaſion to ſee their Sanctuaries, which was refuſed many Georgians, notwithſtanding conſiderable Sums they had proffered to ſee the Sepulchres.

On the 7th. we ſet out and came at night to Syllebek where we took up our Nights-lodging, having this day very good way and with all pleaſant, for on each ſide were fair Meadows, Paſture and Cornfields, and by the way many neat villages with Orchards, Gardens and Summer-Houſes: which made the Time ſeem ſhort and the Journey no way taedious.

Leaving Syllebek we came the next day at night to Choramdeky which for it's many Gardens ſeems to be a Paradiſe.Charamdeki [...] It is alſo watered with a good River which glides thrô the Town, and by a Serpentine courſe thrô the Fields round about the City renders the Earth more fertile and of a very good ſoil, inſomuch that this is one of the [Page] moſt delightfull places we had hitherto ſeen. The People confo [...] mable to the place they inhabit gave us great Satisfaction, and we [...] very ſociable and friendly to converſe withall.

Caſwin deſcribed.On the Ninth we ſet forward again, and came at night to th [...] City Caſwin, which is a Town of no ſmall repute. It is ſituated in 3 degr. 15 min. Northerly Latitude, lying in the Countrey of Er [...] upon a level, but dry and ſandy ground, having on the Weſt th [...] Mountains of Elwind which reach as far as Babylon, or Bagdet, as is now called. This City is about 6 Engliſh Miles in circuit, and h [...] bin formerly the Reſidence of the King and Court of Perſia: b [...] ſince the ſame was tranſlated to Iſpahan, it has continually run to decay, and dayly looſes it's glory. The Walls and Fortifications whic [...] ſeem to have bin very ſtrong, lie buried in their Rubbiſh and unr [...] paired, for that this City lies far within the Perſian Dominions an [...] dreads not any ſudden Irruption as thoſe that lie on the Confines a [...] ever fearfull of, and therefore either without any Fortifications at al [...] to the end they may not prove a Check, if once inveſted and take in by the Enemy, or elſe ſo ſtrongly munited that they may reſ [...] a durable Siege: and another reaſon why the City Caſwin fears n [...] Forreign Invaſion is the Strength of the Inhabitants, who are [...] numerous that upon occaſion they can make up a mighty Army. Th [...] Houſes are, as moſt other Towns in Perſia, moſtly built of Bri [...] which is only hardned in the Sun: ſo that without they appear wit [...] no Statelyneſs or Magnificency, but within neatly painted with Co [...] partments and Foliage. The Streets are not paved as in other Places ſo that when it is windy they are not paſſable, for the Duſt that fli [...] about, which beſides the aptneſs it has to hurt ones Eies, is no ſma [...] annoyance to thoſe who are apparreled in a gay Garb.

The Palace of Schach Tamas.In this City Schach Tamas kept his Court as alſo his Son Iſmaël who built that Magnificent Palace before the Maydan, which ſtil [...] remains as a laſting monument of that puiſſant Monarch, and th [...] Footſteps of a glorious Court, which, had not the Unthankfullneſ [...] of the Inhabitants been ſo great, might have been there till this Da [...] The Gates are very high and ſtately, the Roof and Walls within an [...] all laid with Tiles of Porceline, and ſome of them embelliſhed wit [...] Flowers of Gold, which are annealed or burned in, as the Chineezes do from whom I preſume they have that Art. Within the Chamber [Page] and the ſeveral Appartments are divers curious carved works altogether Foliage, Flowers and the like. Right over againſt this Palace is a fair Garden or Paradiſe, almoſt 2 [Engliſh] Miles in circuit, planted with many Fruit-trees as Citrons, Pomegranats, Apples, Pears, Peaches, Apricocks, &c. And on the outſide round about pleaſant Walks of Cedars and Cypreſs trees. In this City are 2 Maydans. On the one ſtands a Magnificent Hall, full of Shops, wherein are to be ſold Jewels and many other things of value.The Exchange of Whores. Near this Exchange is a place where they deal altogether in Living Jewels, which are there to be had at as mean a Price as a Lurcher or Shock upon the Dog-market at Amſterdam; theſe being ſuch Jewels as we commonly call Girls of the Game, Miſſes, or Cracks, and I know not what canting names they have now a days for ſuch unnatural and ſenſual Proſtitutes: The Perſians call them Cabbaha. About Sun-ſet theſe are all brought out and ſet in a row by an old Woman they call Delal who officiates as a Broker. Behind theſe young Females ſtand a parcel of old Women who have by them a Bolſter, a Quilt, a Coverlet, and a litle Lanthern in the Hand, all Implements for the purpoſe. Now ſo ſoon as any one coms to view the Merchandiſe, theſe old Punks light the Candle, unvail the Face, and ſo going from one to another till he finds one he likes and then ſtrikes a Bargain; which done one of the old Women follows him with the Moveables on her Shoulder whitherſoever he pleaſes, and all with as litle ſhamefaſtneſs as if it were the moſt honourable Merchandiſe in the World.

On the Eaſt ſide of the City is the Common place of Sepulture: where alſo lies interred the Body of Schach Beſade, the Son of Hoſſeyn. By whoſe Tomb the Perſians ſwear, holding it for a moſt ſacred Oath, and conſequently very hainous to violate: and when one deſires another to aſſeverate a matter will aſk him, If he dare ſwear by the Holy Grave. In Caſwin are 50 Churches which ſtand open every day, and are frequented by thoſe that go to pray, but the great Metzid, or Temple, which they call Tzame, is open one day in Four, when there is alwaies a great Convent. They have alſo many Baths in Caſwin, which are frequented from morning to night.

On the 9th. dito was their Eaſter at Caſwin, which they call Bairam, The Feaſt of Bairam. or Biram del Carban, which is only a commemoration of Abrahams Offering, who as they ſay would have offered up his Son Iſhmaël, [Page] from whom they ſay Mahomet is deſcended by a direct line: alledging that it was not Iſaac, as the Chriſtians and Jews beleev; and further that it was not a Ram that was offered in his ſtead, but a She-camel. Wherefore they alwaies lead a Camel thrô the ſtreets for 3 daies together before this Feaſt, adorning it with Garlands of Leavs and Flowers, if there be any to be had, and on the Feſtival ſlay it, with many Ceremonies. Firſt comes the Mulla, who is one ſkill'd in the Law, and reads certain Paſſages out of the Alchoran, when he is ſilent they play upon Trumpets, Flutes and Drums. In the mean while the Common-People run and crowd in to the Camel, to get ſom of the Hair, every one pulling as much as he can, which is kept for Relicts, and reputed good for Women in Childbed who cannot eaſily be delivered; inſomuch that the Beaſt is almoſt bare before he com to be Offered. When they have led him 3 days about Town he is brought out of the City to a place thereto appointed, where all the greateſt Perſonages are preſent and immediately make a Ring. The Beaſt being brought in, one of the moſt eminent Perſons runs him thrô with a Spear, upon which all the People run with Hatchets, Bills, and Knives ſtriving every one to get a piece, which they carry home, ſom boyling it, and other preſerving it till the year after, reckoning it a certain and ſure token of Happineſs to that Houſe, where there is but a ſmal Morſel of this Camel. Thoſe who are ſlow or impotent muſt be content with the Entrails, Skin, and Blood, which they gather up ſo clean, that nothing of it appears upon the Place where the Sacrifice is done. The whole night continues this Feaſt with Muſic, Drinking and Banquetting.

CHAP. XXX. Departure from Caſwin. Arrival at Saba, and an account of the Condition of that Town. The Earth red and barren by the Curſe of Mahomet. They arrive at Kom, with a Deſcription of that Place. Melons of a very fragrant and lovely ſmell. A ſtrange kind of Cucumbers. Khom the Staple for Weapons. The People addicted to Thievery. The Author's combat with a Greek Renegado. Departure out of Khom. Arrival at Kaſchan. Its Situation. The People, and their way of Living and Negotiation. Noble Carawanſeras, or Houſes of Entertainment. Many Gold-and Silk-Cloth Weevers. A ſort of great and venemous Scorpion [Page] and a kind of fell Spiders, which are a powerfull Poyſon, with the ſtrange manner of Cure for the ſame. Their Arrival at Natens. A Faulcon fights and conquers an Eagle.

EIght days long ſtayd we in Caſwin and departed thence on the 17 of December coming at night to the Village Membere, DEC. 1671. where all the Houſes are built round, ſo that at a diſtance they appeared like ſo many Pigeon-Cotes. The Town its ſelf is well ſtored with Neceſſaries, and affoarded us what we had occaſion for.

On the 18 we came to the Village Areſeng, which is ſituated in a very pleaſant Countrey and withall fertile, affoarding good ſtore of Fruit, as Pomegranats, Oranges, Lemmons and other Summer Fruits then out of ſeaſon. Here we thought good to take up our Nights Lodging.

On the 19 we betook our ſelvs to our Journey, and that day travailed about 24 [Engliſh] Miles, over a high, but level way, coming towards night to the great Carawanſera called Choſkeru. This is a very commodious and large Inn, built altogether of ſquare ſtones, within is a ſpacious Court where was a Fountain of very good Water: the Rooms and Appartments were no leſs commodious. On the Walls I found ſeveral Dutch, Poliſh and Ruſsian Names, and alſo wrote my own.

On the 20 we had a very pleaſant days Journey through a delightfull Landſhip; very cloſe inhabited and full of Villages and Hamlets coming at night to a Carawanſera, where we took up our Lodging for that night, and the next day ſet forward for Saba, Arrival at Saba. which is a City lying in 34 degr. and 56 min. in a plain Field having on the Weſt the Mountains of Elivend, which for their exceeding heighth may be ſeen many Miles diſtant. Saba is far leſs than Caſwin, but is munited with a Brick Wall, which Bricks are not burned, as ours, but only hardned with the Sun. Within the City is nothing worthy of remark, but all lies waſt and foul.

They drive no Trade here than what is uſually don in Villages and mean Market Towns, to wit, Wheat and Barley, which is both plentifull, and to be had at a low price, Fruits, as Pomegranats, Oranges, Lemmons, Grapes and other ſorts which grow aſwell within as without the Town. There is a place not far from Saba, where the [Page] Ground is red and barren, which, the Perſians ſay, was by reaſon that Omarzaad within whoſe Juriſdiction this Place was, had murthered their Holy Hoſſeyn, and for this reaſon it was curſed by Mahomet for his Poſterities ſake, that it ſhould never bring forth either Herb, or Tree, nor that any Vegetable ſhould like or thrive being tranſplanted. On the Southeaſt ſide of the Town grows abundance of Tobacco, but not cultivated or planted, which is no ſmall profit to the Inhabitants.

On the 24 we departed from Saba, and at night ſet down at the Carawanſera Schach Ferabath. It was now good travailing by reaſon of the Cold which in this hot Climate is very acceptable, being not far from the Torrid Zone; where in the Summer time beſides the ſcorching heat of the Sun, the Ground is ſo hot that it brings all the Skin off ones Feet; the ways being altogether dry and ſandy, which alſo caſts a reflection of the Sun upon ones Face, as if it came out of a Furnace, whence many are ſtifled with the Heat.

Arrival at Khom.On the 25 we came to the City Khom, and took up our Lodging in a Carawanſera near to the great Maydan. This ſeems to be a City of an ancient ſtanding, and is at preſent very large, but by the Ruins of a Wall a conſiderable diſtance from the Town it appears that it has bin anciently much larger than now it is. It lies in 34 degr. 17 min. Northerly Latitude, and is ſituate on a level flat Ground having on the right hand the Mountains of Elivend whence iſſue two Rivers which run thrô this City, firſt uniting themſelvs a litle above the Town. In the Winter they lay a Bridge over it, but in the Summer it is ſome times dry. Near this Bridge ſtands a litle Chappel, wherein they ſay the Siſter of one Iman Riſa, who was one of the moſt eminent Succeſſors of Mahomet lies interred. The Perſians have alſo a ſpecial veneration for this Female Saint, and make long Pilgrimages to kiſs her Tomb. However the City Khom has many fair and ſpacious Streets, with many Piazzas and Galleries, to defend from Sun and Rain. They have alſo great plenty of Fruit, as at Saba, as alſo Cotton and Tobacco, which grows here in no leſs plenty than at Saba aforeſaid. Beſides the many rare Fruits and Plants they have, there is an excellent ſort of Melons, having the outward form and colour of an Orange, and is oftentimes taken for one, but being cut up appears within as another Melon. Theſe they commonly carry in the Hand for the delicate [Page] flavour, but have no very acceptable or delicious Taſt. They have alſo an odd kind of Cucumber about 18 or 20 Inches long but ſmall, which they pickle much after the manner we do ours, and uſe'em for Sauce. They have alſo the common ſort of Melons which we commonly call Muſk-millions, that far ſurpaſs ours for Delicacy. Khom is a place very conſiderable in regard of Traffic this being eminent for Swords, Knives, Armorers and Cutlers Works. Some of our Company bought here Scymiter Blades, for which they paid to the value of 20 Crowns a piece, yet were not thoſe of the beſt ſort. The Steel they have from Niris near Iſpahan where are ſeveral Mines. Beſides the Smiths work their chief Manufactory is Potts, there being many Fullers, who are eſteemed the beſt in Perſia and their work praeferred before Porceline, which is tranſmitted all over the Countrey. The Inhabitants are ſociable and friendly enough to converſe withall when you have not much to looſe, but we were warned to look well about us, for they ſay that they are brought into the World with their Fiſt doubled. My Patron loſt here 2 new Scymiters he had lately bought, and I a Tobacco box. Six days long ſtay'd the Caravan here, during which time there was much Merchandiſe negotiated. Here I was cruelly peſtered with a Greek Renegado, who continually rail'd upon me, crying, You faithleſs Dog, you Infidel, &c. The Fellow had ſo often affronted me with theſe and the like Words that I was no longer able to endure him, but finding an opportunity I graſp'd him by the Collar, and trounc'd him luſtily off with my Fiſt, and at laſt getting him down I pummeld him back and ſides, ſaying, You varlet, now you ſhall find the Fiſt of a Man, and not the Paw of a Dog. He ſeeing himſelf unable to get up again, drew out his Knife which he indeavored to run into my Belly, but I obſerving got it wreſted out of his Hands, althô not without a litle ſlaſh, or two, on the Palm of my Hand: with which I gave him an Excellent Croſs in the Cheek that he looked like St. Agnes of Monte Sante, withall telling him that althô he was a Muſulman I would give him a Chriſtian Token. With this he began to howl out, and I ſeeing the Coaſt clear thought good to get out of the way betimes, being fain to abſcond till ſuch times as the Caravan was to ſet forward, which was 24 Hours after.

On the 1 of Ianuary we left Khom, and came that night to Carawanſera[Page]Koſmabath where we ſet down.JAN. 1672. That night it began to freez harder than is uſual in thoſe Countreys, but was by day very fair and lovly weather.

The next day we got the Village Senſen, lying about 5 Dutch Miles diſtant from Kaſchan where on the 3 day of Ianuary we arrived towards the Evening, taking up our Quarters at a very noble and commodious Carawanſera, ſeeming rather a Palace than an Inn.

Situation of Kaſchan, &c. Kaſchan lies in 33 degr. 51 min. It is built long wiſe and points Eaſt and Weſt, being munited with ſtrong Walls and round Redoubts after the old manner of Fortification, on the South ſide of the Tow [...] is a place where they exerciſe the Spear in Tilt and Tournament where are alſo ſeveral Pillars ſet up for Butts, or Marks to ſhoot at. O [...] the other ſide of the Town are ſeveral Royal Gardens and Summe [...] Houſes, and amongſt the reſt one of a ſtately Fabric, having a Thouſand Windows. Kaſchan is at this day the moſt populous and emine [...] Marts in all Perſia; having alſo a very famous Baſar and Maydan wit [...] Piazzas and ſtately Galleries, wherein are many rich Shops. It i [...] the ſtaple for the moſt part of the Silk ſtuffs that are made in Perſi [...] They have alſo many that work in Velvets and Sattins but not altogether ſo good as thoſe in Europe; ſo that the King has ſent often to Venice expreſly for Workmen to come and reſide there, which nevertheleſs he cannot accompliſh. The Carawanſeras which are here very numerous do ſurpaſs all others that ever I have ſeen elſewhere: tha [...] where we took up our Quarters being more like a Palace than an In [...] as I have ſaid before, having 65 ſpacious Rooms, beſides many Conveniences which others want. Below it was all Arched and mad [...] into ſtable uſe, and above with Galleries to entertain the common ſo [...] of People. Hither reſort many Indian and other Merchants, coming very far and bringing with them many rich Wares and precious Commodities. There are abundance of Looms for Cloth of Gold and Silver, as alſo many that make Tapeſtry, and no leſs is the number of Idle Perſons, who ſwarm hither from all Parts, and like Drone [...] are maintained by the ſedulous Labours of thoſe that take Pains, and here have I ſeen more Beggars than ever I have ſeen in any Town in all my Travels. As for the Countrey of Kaſchan, it is very fertile and of an excellent Soil, producing vaſt Quantities of Wine, Fruit, Corn and is very rich of Cattel, inſomuch that it is very cheap living there. [Page] But this is alſo concomitated with other Annoyances, to wit, the Extreme Heat of the Climat, and the Multitudes of Scorpions which haunt the Town, thoſe being both great and dangerous, yet both in ſhape and colour differing from thoſe in Italy. The Inhabitants for fear of that venemous Animal dare not ly upon the Floor, as in other Places, where they only throw a Quilt upon the Tapeſtry, but have high Couches hanging from the Roofs of the Rooms, like Hammocks: and althô this Creature be very venemous and many are ſtung by it, yet few die, they having found out a ready Medicin againſt it, which is made of the Filings of Copper tempered with Vinegar and Honey, which is a very ſpeedy remedy, yet if neglected the Party ſtung is in danger of his Life. This I preſume has bin firſt found out by an Antipathetical quality which ſeems to be between thoſe Scorpions and Copper, for not far from the City is the Copper-mint, where if one of theſe be brought it dies immediatly.

Beſides theſe Scorpions, they are peſterd with another venemous Creature which they call Enkurekan, being very much like a Spider,A great and venemous ſort of Spider. but bigger than a Mouſe, ſom of theſe are ſpeckled, and ſom have long ſtreaks over the Back. Theſe keep moſt in ſtony Places, and haunt the Herb Tremne, almoſt like our Wormwood. The venemous Matter which they have in them they ſpit out, as ſom ſay Toads do, which whereſoever it lights, whether on man or Beaſt it immediatly penetrates and incorporates with the Blood,An Antidot for their venom. and ſo proceeds to the Head and Heart. So ſoon as the Patient is touched he falls immediately into a deep ſleep, in ſuch ſort that all the calling and beating him, will not avail or awake him; or if by chance it do he remains ſtill ſenceleſs. The beſt and ſpeedieſt Remedy for this, is the Enkurekan it's ſelf, pounded into a Cataplaſm and applied: but when theſe are not to be had, they uſe another mean, which is thus. The Patient is laid upon his Back and his Mouth ſet open, into which they pour much Milk as they can make him digeſt; which done, they put him in a ſquare Cheſt, having on each ſide a Ring, through which are four Cords put and made faſt at one Ring on the Cieling. This Cheſt thus hanging, they whirl it about for a quarter of an Hour together, till the Patient breaks up and vomits all he has within him. This commonly lucks, if the Patient can be brought to ſwallow the Potion▪ yet they feel the vigorous force of the Poyſon for a long time after. [Page] Theſe nevertheleſs do not much annoy the Town, unleſs when they are brought in with the Faggots, which they uſe for Fewel. But wha [...] is moſt worthy of Remark, is, that Sheep covet them more than an [...] thing elſe, and if they chance to ſpy one run in at a hole will not lea [...] throwing up Earth till ſhe gets it, and ſo ſnapp it up, yet ail nothing at all.

After we had lay Eight days in Kaſchan and bought Wares and Pr [...] viſion, we broke up, and on the 13 at night came to Carawanſer [...] Chotza Caſsim, which ſtands in the middle of a Grove of Cypreſ [...] and other Trees, which Winter and Summer grow always green In the ſaid Carawanſera we found very good Accommodation. Her [...] my Patron was taken with a ſudden Fit of the Cholic, which hel [...] him ſo hard, that, we very much doubted of his Recovery, althô at laſt to my unfeigned Joy it went over.

On the 14th. we had very bad travailing way thrô dry and ſand Ground, and found no Villages nor Towns to refreſh our ſelvs a [...] till we came at Natens which is a very pleaſant little City. Here w [...] ſet down and took up our Carawanſera for that night. The Countre [...] cloſe by Natens is very fertile and affords great plenty of good Wine The Inhabitants being diligent Propagaters of the Vineyards. Nea [...] this City is a Hill upon which is erected a very high Tower of ſquar [...] and poliſhed ſtone which was built by Schach Abas as a Monumen [...] of a Battail between an Eagle and a Hawk, where the laſt after a long Encounter came off with Victory. It began now to freez harder and harder, as alſo to ſnow ſo that we were fain to ſtay 3 Day at Natens, during which time we made good Cheer, and ſpared not our Proviands which we had taken up by the way, having now got ſight of the Royal City Iſpahan.

On the 17th. we left Natens and that Day had very rocky ground to drive over, and by the way ſtop'd at a famous Carawanſera called Dombi, where we reſted and refreſhed our ſelvs, and at night were fain to ſet down at Ruk a Village not far from Iſpahan, by reaſon of the ſnow, remaining there alſo the moſt part of the next day.

CHAP. XXXI. Arrival at Iſpahan. Their Reception with the Dutch Reſident. A Rélation of the Stability of Anthony Munſter, who was urged to imbrace Mahometaniſm: his Death and Burial. The Manner and Situation of the Dutch Lodge. The Situation of Iſpahan, it's Greatneſs: Rivers running thrô the ſame. The Aqueduct, a mighty work of Schach Abas. The Streets of Iſpahan. Maydan and Baſar. Fair Arches and Galleries. The Sumptuous Meſtzid of Schach Abas. Dowlet- or Schach-Chane, the Royal Pallace. The Divan-Chane, or Court of Juſtice. The Hiram-Chane, or Palace of the Kings Concubines. Allycarpi a Sanctuary, or place of Refuge. Carawanſeras, Taverns. Cahwae-Chane, Coffee-Houſes. Perſian Saints and Philoſophers. Remal and Falkil, two ſorts of Sooth-ſayers. Their ſtrange and ridiculous way of preſaging. The Kayſery or Gallerie of Shops.

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HAving ſtay'd the moſt part of 2 Days at Ruk, Arrival at Iſpahan. we ſet forward again, and on the 19 we came to the long-wiſhd-for Iſpahan. Where being arrived I longed greedily to ſee my Countrey-men, and went to my good Maſter Hadſi Byram to take my leav of him, with a Thouſand Thanks for his many Favours: I deſired him alſo to let ſom go with me to ſhow me the Dutch Lodge, which he with great willingneſs aſſented to, and ſent one of his Slaves with me.

Thus I went with Monſr. Lewis Fabritius and Chriſtian Brandt to the Lodge, where for that time the Heer Frederic Bent of Enkhuyſen was Chief Factor for the Eaſt India Company, Monſr. Kaſenbroot of Rheenen, Second, or Under-Factor, and Mr. Hubert Balde of Amſterdam Aſſiſtant. When we came at the Gate we found a Black, who was the Porter, and ſpoke very good Nether-Dutch whom we deſired to make our coming known; which when he had don, we were admitted in, and very friendly received by the ſaid Gentlemen, who invited us to ſtay there, which without much refuſal we accepted with many Thanks. They brought us forthwith into a very ſtately Room hung with Tapeſtry, and furniſhed with Beds, where we lay; and had alſo Victuals and Firing provided us, with what elſe was neceſſary. Beſides that they ſhow'd us all imaginable Friendſhip and Divertiſements, taking great delight to hear our many Evaſions and Deliverances from ſuch hard Adventures. I have elſwhere adviſed [Page] how that being at Scamachi, we had a Letter from one of our Company, to which was ſet no name; yet praeſumed that it was from Anthony Munſter the Jeweller. The certainty thereof I underſtood here, as alſo how he was brought to Iſpahan. Being com to Iſpahan, his Patron wrought very hard upon him to renounce Chriſtianity, and embrace the Mahometan Faith, promiſing him upon his ſo doing to eſteem him for his Son, to giv him one of his Daughters in Marriage, and a conſiderable Dowry, beyond what was cuſtomary in thoſe Lands. All theſe the young Man declined, ſaying, that neither Promiſes nor Threats ſhould ever praevail with him and therefore begg'd of him to reſt contented. His Patron finally marking, that he was not flexible to eſpouſe that Religion, he began to peſter and oppreſs him with all manner of Cruelty that he could invent, inſomuch that he became very Melancholic, and at laſt loſt his Sences, in which condition he made his Eſcape into the Dutch Lodge, whic [...] he took up for his Sanctuary, and was kindly received by the Hee [...] Bent, who held him ſo long in private till he had obtained his Freedom from the King. Yet ſtill continued this Frenzy with him, till he died, only ſom ſay that by certain Expreſſions he made, about the Eternity of the Soul, he was ſenſible of himſelf a little before his Death. He was buried with a more than ordinary Pomp, conſidering the meanneſs of his Perſon, as to outward Eſtate; but was highly ſet by for his perſeverance and conſtancy in the Chriſtian Faith. His outward Qualities were very commendable being of a handſom ſtature, fair Complexion and in every Way and Geſture very taking: nor was he leſs to be praiſed for the internal Faculties of the Mind and Soul, being very conſcientious and juſt in all his dealings, and withall pious. His ſweet Manners and Converſation was ſuch that thoſe who had the left converſe with him were very ſorry for his untimely, or to ſpeak more properly, his early Death, he not being fully 26 years of Age.

The Dutch Lodge is a very fair Building, not far from the Kings Palace, having many fair Appartments, Ware-houſes, and other Conveniences for repoſing Merchandizes. The many fair Rooms it has, are furniſhed with all neceſſary Moveables, beyond thoſe of the Perſians, and far more coſtly. Behind the Houſe is a fair and ſpacious Garden, having all ſorts of Fruit-trees proper to that and other [Page] Climats, as alſo a great Vineyard and an Arboret, or Nurſery for young Trees. In the middle is to be ſeen a very noble Fountain, diſperſing it's water in various Figures in the Air, to an admirable height, ſurpaſſing moſt Water-works that I have ſeen in Europe. The Hollanders live there very ſplendidly, to uphold the Honour of the Eaſt India Company, and go in the Perſian Habit, as alſo their Waiters and Attendants, who are moſtly Turks and Moors: and becauſe I was to go for Gameron they gave me a new Perſian Suit: which I was to take with me. In the mean while I had work enough to ſatisfy their curioſitie with frequent rehearſals of what had befallen me in my foregoing Voyages to the Indies, and the Levant.

Iſpahan, called alſo Iſphahan, lies in 32 degr. and 26 min. in the Countrey of Or, Arak as Mercator calls it, others call it Choraſan, and others Lexa. Erak, formerly called Parthia. It is ſituated in a level and plain Landſhip, environed on every ſide with Mountains at a conſiderable diſtance, as the Mountains of Demawend on the South and South-weſt, Maſanderan and Jeylak Perſan on the North-eaſt. This is the greateſt City that I have ſeen in all Perſia, being, with it's Suburbs and all 16 hours going in circuit [about 48 Engliſh Miles] It is but very weakly fortified, the Walls being only of Earth and ſloaping inward, ſo that at Top they are not above 6 Foot thick; the Trench or Ditch is alſo very narrow, and in the Summer ſo ſhallow that the Children wade through it, and ſomtimes it is wholly dry: ſo that this City ſeems to [...]ear no Enemy or forreign Invaſion, truſting to the potency and number of Inhabitants.

On the South and South-weſt ſide it is watered with the Senderut, a reaſonable great River riſing from the Demawend Mountains, which coming here is led thrô the Town by Pipes and Subterranean Aqueducts, for Kitchin and other uſes, althô in Gardens and Gentlemens Houſes they have Fountains apart. There is alſo a Branch of this River that runs thrô the Park wherein are Harts, and other Beaſts of chace: this Park or Warrand they call Hozartzieris. Another arm of the River is brought under Ground thrô the Tzarbag, or Royal Garden. Not far from hence is a fair Stone Bridge which lies over the River, wherein is great variety of rare Workmanſhip. Beſides the Senderut, there is another River, or rather Aqueduct, called Abkuren, begun by Schach Abas and not yet finiſhed, which is fetched from beyond the Mountains of Demawende. About the making of [Page] this Aquaeduct were more than a 1000 Men continually at Work, each Man having about 7d ſterl. a day wages, yet what with the Violence of unuſual Floods, and what with the Forreign Warrs in which this Prince was involved, the work was totally laid aſide after a 3 Moneths labour. But the Chans, and Deputies who were more at leiſure, ſeeing the work ſo detarded joyntly lent their Aſſiſtance to carry on this laudable Deſign, in which they ſaw the King took ſo much delight, maintaining ſo many Men at their proper Expences. The Difficulty they met with was unſpeakably great, having hard Rocks of Flint and Marble to cut thrô, beſides much riſing and falling Ground, which they had to make aequal. But the work being brought within 600 Paces of the Town the King died, and his Succeſſor, whoſe inclinations were quite of another ſtrain, had no mind to finiſh it inſomuch that it remains ſtill as it was when Schach Abas died.

The Streets of Iſpahan were formerly very wide, but when the abovementioned Abas, King of Perſia, removed the Imperial Throne from Caſwin hither, he was followed by ſo many Gentry and others that had their Appendency from the Court, that whole Rows of Houſes were built in the middle of every Street, making by that one Street into 2. It is exceeding populous, inſomuch that many times when one would paſs thrô the Maydan or Baſar he muſt be fain to ſtay a long time, before he gets paſſage. The Maydan, which is a place ſerving as our Exchanges, is very large, being 700 Paces long, and 250 broad, and yet too little by far to contain the vaſt Multitudes which dayly have recourſe hither about different Buſineſſes. On th [...] Weſt ſide towards the Kings Palace are many fair Galleries, Piazzas and Arches, where all the Goldſmiths and Jewellers have their Shops: and before the ſaid Piazzas are planted many Palm-Trees to ſecure them from the vigorous heat of the Sun. On the Eaſt ſide is another Gallerie with many fair Arches, where all ſorts of Mechanics work in the open ſight of all. Right over againſt this ſaid Gallerie is a Triumphal Arch erected, where the Kettle-drummers, Trumpetters and Fifers ſit, and play when the King goes out, or in, as alſo upon the Introduction of any forreign Prince, Chan, or Ambaſſador.

In the middle of the Maydan which is not far from the great Gate of the Palace is a Great Maſt like a May-pole planted, on the Top whereof they ſet Melon, at which they ſhoot, and oftentimes make great [Page] [Page]

[...] [...]ngelſe Logye

2. Metzid of Tempel.

3. Hollantſe Logie.

4. Doodts Hoofden Icoren.

5. Maydan of marckt

6 Vrouwen Tempel

7. [...]t Hof van. Perſien.

[Page] [Page] Matches, which is held for the principal Divertiſement uſed at Court, as Tilting was formerly in moſt Courts of Europe.

On the 23 of January was a great Match which I had the Fortune to ſee. It was appointed at the Interceſſion of the Uſbec Ambaſſador by the King who was himſelf preſent, and was mounted on a ſtately Arabian Horſe richly cappariſon'd, for the Sadle and Saddle-cloth were very richly embroydered and ſo thick beſet with Rubies and other Precious Stones that one could hardly view it. The Court and Royal Retinue were alſo well mounted and appeard very ſplendid. When they were ready to try their Dexterity one went up to the Top, and ſet up a Cup of Gold, which who could hit and bring it down, ſhould not only have it for his Pains, but alſo be preferred to great Honour, and take place among the Princeſs of Perſia, The King gave the Tartars the Advantage of ſhooting firſt who after they had ſhot more than an hour, were fain to give over: for it was to be don on Horſe back, and the Horſe in a full carier, and furthermore not to ſhoot till they came to a certain Place where they had the maſt directly on the left ſide. The Ambaſſador ſeeing that none of his men were ſo dexterous gave over, and deſired the King that he would vouchſafe to try the ſkill of the Perſians. Upon which the King ordered certain Perſons, who, without doubt, were very expert Marksmen, to ride in a circle, one for one, where the third that ſhot had the Fortune to bring it down, upon which the Perſians gave a ſhout that the Palace rang again. Upon this he was ſent for by the King and brought into the Palace with as much Triumph as if he had won ſom ſignal Victory; the Cup, Bow, and Quivers were like Trophys carried before him, by certain Heraulds thereto appointed, and he himſelf althô but a poor Mans Son of Keylan, promoted to great honour and reckoned in the Degree of a Chan. Beſides this the King gave him a conſiderable Penſion out of the Treſury to maintain his Grandour.

On the South ſide of the Maydan is a very ſtately Meſtzid which was founded and begun by Schach Abas, The Metzid of Schach Abas deſcribed. but finiſhed by Sephy his Nephew, who dedicated it to Twelve Saints, which are all included under the name of Mehedi, and, as their Hiſtorians affirm, were all buried in one Grave. The way from the Maydan to this Meſ [...] zid is all paved with huge marble Stones, in the middle whereof is [Page] a great Stone Bath where every one that will enter the ſaid Temple is firſt obliged to waſh. Leaving this Paſſage you go up two Stepps which leads you into a broad Plain, and about 8 hundred Foot directly forward another ſtep which brings you into the Church. The Gate which enters the Meſquite is of fair Marble and about as high as that of the Meſchaich of Choddabende in Sultanie. The Doors of this Temple are laid ore with Silver Plates, and ſet in with Flowers of Gold. Entring within the Gate, you com into a pompous Antichamber, the Floor whereof is beſpred with very fine Matts, upon which they fall down on their Knees, and make a ſhort prayer. From hence on each hand is a ſtately Gallery, each leading into another ſpacious Court, having in the middle a great Fountain, with a Bath. Above theſe great Galleries are ſom leſs, which are ſupported by marble Pillars, the Chapters and Foliage whereof are neatly gilded. When you are paſt theſe Galleries and the Courts, you come into the Temple i [...] ſelf, entring in at a ſplendid Port, within and under the Cieling, all laid in with blew Tiles of true Porceline, and intermixed with Flowers of Gold. The Temple its ſelf is very large and ſumptuous, ſupported with huge marble Pillars. On the right hand at going out of this Church, you enter thrô an Arch into a magnificent Hall, where ſtands a Pulpit and an Altar, which ſaid place, for ſumptuouſneſs and uniformity of ſtructure, is reputed the moſt coſtly Building and moſt glorious Fabric in the whole Emarath. All the Marble whereof it is built, ſeeming to outvy the Snow its ſelf for whiteneſs, is brought hither, not without vaſt trouble and Charges, from the Mountains of Elivend.

The Palace.The Kings Palace, called Dowlet, or Schach Chane is alſo a very ſtately Houſe. Before you enter the outer Gate is a large Plain, on which are many Pieces of old Braſs Ordnance, unfit for uſe, and are only thrown together on heaps, and out of order: a true Embleme of ſuch Perſons as have in the Flower of their Youth been ſerviceable to their Prince and Commonwealth, but growing old and impotent becom Abjects; and are laid aſide. The Palace, 'tis true, is munited on every ſide with a Wall, but ſo meanly, that it would not reſiſt a Cannon ball, much leſs ſecure the Perſon of the King, if attacqued with any ſudden Force, which is the leaſt thing they dread. By day the utmoſt Gate is only guarded with 4 Sentinels but [Page] at night, by 15 Halberdiers: and in the Bed-Chamber of the King 30 young Gentlemen, being moſtly the Sons of great Perſonages; in whom the King repoſes moſt Confidence. Every night the Kiſchiktzchi, or Captain of the Guards, brings the King a Liſt of their Names; who are to ſtand upon the Ward the night following. Within the Palace are ſeveral great Halls or Appartments, amongſt which the Tabchane and the Diwan-Chane are the chiefeſt: The former being the Banquetting Houſe, and the latter the Court of Juſtice. In the Diwan-Chane Ambaſſadors are always received and thence introducted into the Chamber of Audience, the more becauſe the Glory of the Cavalcade and other Solemnities can be here the better ſeen. Another Appartment which is not much inferior to thoſe already made mention of, is the Haram-Chane, where the King diverts himſelf with his Wives and Concubines. The Dekay is the Place where the King retires, and has his Reſidence, when not ingaged in any important Affair, holding here his Table with his legitimat Wives. In ſhort there are many other Appartments within the Palace for inferior Concerns. Behind the Palace is a Garden which they call the Chobbadar; in the middle whereof is a beautifull little Chappel. Here is alſo the great Sanctuary, or Place of Refuge, which they call Allycarpi, which is as much as to ſay, Gods Gate; in which Place a Malefactor is free from Juſtice. There is alſo another ſuch Place of Refuge, on the other ſide of the Maydan, called Tzechil Sutun, ſo called from 40 huge maſſy Beams that reſt upon one Pillar ſtanding in the middle, and ſo ſupport the Roof. Hither it was whither the Perſians fled when the Town was taken in by the great Tamerlan, and oppoſed him again, but he breaking in with violence put all to the ſword, ſave thoſe that had got into the interior Temple, or Metzid, for which he had ſuch a veneration that he would not violate the Inſtitutions of Mahomet, or pollute the Sanctuary with Blood.

On the North ſide of the Maydan, are many Taverns and Taphouſes, and among thoſe a Houſe greatly frequented by Traders, called the Tzaychatti-Chane or Thee-houſe, which they prepare quite after another manner than the Indians, of whom the Europeans firſt had it; for here they put in ſo many aromatical Ingredients, that one can neither perceiv any Taſte or Smell of Tee in it. In drinking Tee they alſo accuſtom themſelvs to Play, and eſpecially at Cheſs, at which [Page] they are very quick and expert. The Coffee-houſes they call Cahwa-Chane, where they only go to drink Coffee and ſmoke Tobacco, with which they are ſo deeply affected that they ſomtimes ſmoke in the Church. When they are within doors they have a great Glaſs, full of water, thrô which they put their Pipes and ſmoke, much after the manner of an Alembric Still, which renders it very cool. When they draw, the water bubbles up as if it boyled, yet by reaſon of a ſtinking vapour that riſes from it, is very annoyſom. But when they ſmoke along the ſtreet have only ſuch a Pipe as thoſe which are now grown common in the Low-Countreys, being of ſeveral joynts, and the Head of Earth. Their Coffee they drink very hot, and are [...] opinion that it ſedates and aſſwages their Luſt to Women, whic [...] make their Wives ready to proteſt againſt it, rather willing tha [...] their Husbands ſhould tranſgreſs againſt the Alchoran and uſe th [...] Juyce of the Grape than that Arabian Berry. The chief Cuſtome [...] which thoſe Public Houſes have, are the Barbers, who frequent [...] haunt them to be imploy'd in ſhaving their Heads: but every ma [...] that is able to buy a Raſor always carries one about with him, bein [...] very fearfull of the Venereal Murrain, which they call Keſchi, and w [...] the French Pox, or ſom ſuch thing.

But quaint is the Habit, and more ſtrange the Cuſtoms of the [...] Clergy, and ſuch as are under any Spiritual Order, who notwithſtanding their vain and palpable Fooleries, have drawn themſel [...] into a great eſteem of the Laïty of all degrees. Theſe abſtain fro [...] Wine, live an auſtere life, and never marry till they grow very old Som go in a long courſe Robe, others half naked, and a third f [...] only with a Skin girded about their middle. They go about the Streets and when they come to any large Place as the Maydan, Baſar, or th [...] like, ſit down, and with a moſt hideous yelling convoke an Auditory which being aſſembled they make a kind of a hortatory Oration which notwithſtanding the Scope or End, contains little elſe tha [...] a commemoration of the great and worthy Acts of Aly, and alwai [...] at Peroration vilify and curſe the Turkiſh Saints Omar, Oſman an [...] Abubeker. but more eagerly againſt the dogmatical Decrees of th [...] Ubec-Tartars: But thoſe of that nation being of late years grown ver [...] numerous at Iſpahan, aſſumed the boldneſs to oppoſe them, for whic [...] end the King has allowed thoſe Worthies to go armed with Hatchets [Page] as at preſent they do, and have free Toleration to knock any man down that ſhall offer to interrupt them. They have one only Monaſtery, or Coenobium, where they all live together, which was built them at the Charges of the preſent King: and have alſo a conſiderable Sum allowed them for their maintenance, beſides what they gather from the People by mumping, or rather Mountebanking.

On the Weſt ſide about Dowlet-Chane are all the Sooth-ſayers, of which there be two ſorts, to wit, Remal and Falkir, both which are in their practiſe more ridiculous than our circumventing Gypſies, and conſequently not worth my Pains to recount, nor the Readers Patience to hear of 'em.

In going from the Maydan to the Northward you find a way which leads you to the Baſan, where is a very ſtately Kayſerie, full of Shops and thoſe ſtored with very rich commodities. This Market conſiſts in a certain number of Streets, that are moſtly arched over. Hither repair Merchants of all Nations, except Perſians alone, as Indians, Tartars, Turks, Armenians, Georgians, as alſo Engliſh, French, Italians, Hollanders and other Europeans. Their way of Dealing is altogether for Money, nothing by Barter. Abas is the moſt plentifull coin in uſe among them, valuing ſomthing leſs than an [Engliſh] Shilling, and the Schach Abas which is half the value of the other; the latter is alſo moſtly called Choddabende. They do not uſe much Gold, but abundance of Copper which they call Pull, 40 of which Pieces make an Abas. The Europeans who com thither bring commonly Rix-dollars, which the Perſians once getting into their Hands will by no means part with them, for they are diligently ſought up by the Money-changers, who bring them to the Serab-Chane, or Mint, and make a conſiderable profit of them.

CHAP. XXXII. Taberik Kale the Treaſurie of the Kingdom. The Suburbs of Iſpahan. Tziulfa, a place where the Armenian Chriſtians have their Reſidence. Tabriſabath. Haſſenabath. Kebrabath, ſo called from Kebber, Perſians that are ſtill Pagans. Tzarbag. The Nature of the Perſians. Property of the Land. Celebration of the Epiphany by the Armenian Chriſtians.

ISpahan, as it is a Royal City of ſo conſiderable a Monarchy, and one of the firſt magnitude, ſo it has a great concourſe of Strangers [Page] from all Countreys in the World, ſo that above all other Vocations the Inn-keepers generally thrive the beſt, and by their great doings accommodate all Perſons to their full Content: The Carawanſeras here are more ſumptuous by far than either thoſe of Caſwin, or any other City in Perſia. They are for the moſt part ſquare, ſom of them having 4 or 5 Galleries abov one another, and thoſe furniſhed with very commodious Appartments, and for their better Security for Theeves are ſurrounded with high Stone Walls.

In Iſpahan are alſo many fair Buildings, beſides what are already remembred, amongſt which the Taberik Kale, or Fort Royal where the Kings Treſury is, is one of the moſt eminent, ſituated between the Palace and the Meſtzid Mehedi, which is both munited with ſtrong Walls, guarded continually with a ſufficient Body of Soldiery, and has plenty of Braſs Cannon. The ſame alſo ſerves for a Magazin or Repoſitory of Armory. There are alſo two fair Chriſtian Monaſteries, the one for the Carmelites and the other for Auguſtin Monks.

Theſe with many other fair Buildings, too taedious to recount, are within the Walls. There are alſo many ſplendid Piles of Buildings without in the Suburbs, which they call the Rhabath. In the Suburbs are two eminent Wards, to wit, Tzulfa and Ciulfa, moſtly, or altogether inhabited by the Armenian Chriſtians, who are reputed the ableſt Merchants in Iſpahan, being tranſported hither by Schach Abas from their own Countrey, and have ſince injoyed ſundry Immunities, and have a Governour of their own, which they call Daruga who muſt bring up 200 Tumain yearly contribution to the King, which is taken out of their Public Stock. The private Dwelling-Houſes of thoſe Armenians do equal, or rather ſurpaſs thoſe within Walls for ſplendid ſtructure. On the one ſide of the River Senderut is another Place, called Tabri- or Abas-Sabath for that Schach Abas had allotted the People of Tabris this Part of the Town to dwell in▪ Another Ward, or Quarter of the Suburbs is called Haſſenabath, which is moſtly inhabited by the Georgian Chriſtians, commonly called Trurtzi, Theſe as well as the Armenians are great Merchants, being alſo highly in favour with the King, not only for the vaſt Tribute which they pay, but aſwel for their Loyalty and good deportment: and theſe are the only Chriſtians who are tolerated to live within the Walls, and have a Quarter of the Town allotted them near the Meſtzid[Page]Mehedi, althô they rather chuſe to dwell in the Suburbs, that they may be retire from the Calumny of the Mahometans, and the better enjoy the Benefits of a Chriſtian Society. The Kebrabath is a Diſtrict of the Suburbs lying on the Weſt ſide of the City, ſo called from the Kebbers, which are a ſort of ancient Perſian Pagans, who following the old opinion of the Perſians, when they were yet Heathens, will not embrace Mahometaniſm. Theſe differ from the reſt in Habit, as well as in Cuſtoms and Religion, wearing looſe Drawers, with a long Coat only faſtned at the Collar, open at the ſhoulders: Their Hair they let grow, all over their Head and Face. The Women are attired as the Men only with this difference, that they wear a long Silk or Cotton Scarf which trails on the Ground. The Language they ſpeak is ſtill the ancient Lingua Perſica, for they are very curious in preſerving their ancient Tongue without any Innovation, inſomuch that the Perſians who ſpeak the modern Language cannot underſtand them [as the Engliſh cannot underſtand the old Brittiſh, or Welſh] yet theſe can both underſtand and ſpeak the preſent Perſian Tongue. They retain alſo the Ancient Characters, and adore the Sun and the Elements for Deïties performing Monethly Sacrifices. Beſides the veneration they have for the Sun, they do worſhip to the Starrs, but have little or no Judgement in the courſe of the ſame. Snakes and all other venemous Animals they hold for unclean, ſo that whoſoever touches any of thoſe, whether voluntarily, or by accident, muſt not enter into their Temples till he be purified. Their Dead they do not burn as moſt Pagans do, but when any Perſon dies, whether it be an Infant, or one com to full growth and Maturity, they waſh the Body very clean, and carry it to a Place far diſtant from any Houſes, and there ſet it upright againſt a Poſt, where they wait till the Ravens com and pick out the one Eie, which if it be the right Eie, they are of opinion that the Soul of the Departed is in Paradiſe, and therefore interr him very decently; but if the Bird pull out his left Eie firſt, then they hold it for a ſure Token, that he is damned, and for his wicked Life to ſuffer perpetual Torments, and therefore eſteem him not worthy of ſuch ſolemn Exequies, but caſt him head-long into a deep Pit.

Without the City of Iſpahan are many fair Gardens and Summer-houſes, belonging to the King and divers great Perſonages. The [Page] moſt eminent of all theſe is the Tzarbag, not far from the great Bridge, being 4 ſquare, and about 2 [Engliſh] Miles in circuit. This (as was ſaid before) is watered with an Aquaeduct that is conveyed under Ground by ſeveral ſmall leaden Pipes from the Main, and here and there vented by Fountains, which force the Water ſomtimes 36 or 40 foot high. On each corner ſtands a noble Summer Houſe, of an admirable rare Fabric. The Garden it's ſelf has the moſt and greateſt varieties of Fruit-Trees and Vegetables that ever I have ſeen, althô it was then Winter when I was there. And indeed the Perſians are great Lovers of Planting, Gardening, and all manner of Tillage; ſo that there is hardly a Houſe in all Iſpahan, but has ſomthing of a Garden behind it, more or leſs, whence it coms that this City is ſo great in compaſs.

As to the manner of their Hous-keeping and other peculiar Cuſtoms, I hold it needleſs to treat any thing about, ſince it may be collected out of what I have already ſaid in the foregoing Chapters. They are in general very ſociable, and for their Urbanity towards ſtrangers, draw many Forreigners thither. They are alſo Lovers of all kinds of Diſcipline, and the Gentry very ambitious in Arts and Sciences. The Land about Iſpahan is very fertile, and affoards all that is neceſſary for human ſuſtenance in good plenty. But the Town being very populous thrô the great concourſe of Strangers from all parts of the World makes all things very dear, but eſpecially Fewel, inſomuch that Wood and Charcoal are ſold by the Pound, and notwithſtanding it may ſeem to be in a warm climat, yet in the Winter it is very cold, or at leſt ſo ſeeming to them, who are uſed to the great heat of the Summer Solſtice. During the time of my being there they were very buſy about gathering their Ice, which is got and preſerved after this manner: Firſt they dig a great Pit in the Earth, about 40 Foot deep, which they encompaſs with a Wall, about 10 Fathom high which is commonly made of Clay, but that ſide next to the North is lower than the reſt, that the cool North Winds may allay the violent Heat of the Sun: then they dig or plow certain furrows in the Plains round about, which when it freezes, they ſet all over with Water, and ſo gather the Ice, and when they have enough cover it with ſtraw. This Ice is very common in uſe among the richer ſort in the Summer time, not only for cooling the Wines, [Page] but aſwell for lying upon their Diſhes of Fruit,FEB. 1672. when they are brought up to the Table, which is only laid on a heap in the middle of the Diſh, and ſo diſſolves it ſelf, through all the Fruit. This is reckoned for a good commodity if it be a hot Summer, and is ſold as well along the Streets, as in Houſes.

On the 16 of February, was the Epiphany celebrated by the Armenian and Georgian Chriſtians. So ſoon as I heard what was the matter, I roſe pretty early in the morning with intent to ſee the Solemnity of the Day. The firſt I met was the Jeſaulcor, or Great Marſhal with all his ſubordinat Officers, who were ordered to prevent Tumults, and not to ſuffer Horſes and Camels with any Burthens to paſs over the Bridges and thrô the Streets that lead to Tzulfa and Tzarbag; which was not only don for the ſake of the Chriſtians, but upon the account of one of the Kings legitimat Wives, whom he entirely loved, being a Georgian by birth and educated in the Chriſtian Religion, and had a deſire to go and ſee the Solemnities performed, which the King would not deny her, for that ſhe was great with Child. About 8 in the morning were all the Chriſtian Ladies in Balconies, which were all hung with Tapeſtry, and thoſe of the greateſt rank with Canopies over head. Thoſe of meaner degree ſate on each ſide the River Senderus, and had a Guard of Soldiers under the Command of an Officer, to ſecure them from being abuſed by the Mahometans, and to ſuffer no Men to crowd in upon them. About 9 aſſembled all thoſe under Spiritual Orders and the Clergy belonging to the 10 Churches of Tzulpha, and the 2 Churches of Iſpahan. Thoſe were all attired in white Stoles and Capps of Cloth of Gold upon their Heads, with long Labels hanging down to their middle, but more gorgeous was the Attire of the Patriarch, being all over richly embroydered with Gold and adorned with coſtly Gems. Every Prieſt carried a Silver Croſs hung with litle Silver Bells and Baſons. The Croſſes which were carried by thoſe of higher degrees and in the formoſt Ranks were ſupported, each by 3 Men. The Inferior Clergy followed after with lighted Tapours in their Hands, accompanied with the moſt eminent of the Laïty. The Superior Monks of Iſpahan adjoyned themſelvs to the Patriarch, 5 of them bearing up his Pontifical Robes, 2 on each ſide and one behind. About one a clock came the King mounted on a ſtately Arabian Horſe, without any conſiderable [Page] Retinu ſave only the Chancelor and Grand Marſhal, the the Guards and the reſt of the Court having order to keep behind the Proceſſion. The Begum, or Queen before mentioned was carried before as a privat Gentlewoman in a Sedan to a great Merchants houſe, accompany'd only with one Gentlewoman, the Maſter of the Eunuchs and 4 of his Company: for the King ever repoſes great Confidence in the Chriſtians, and eſteems them as the moſt loyal of all his Subjects, as appears by his adventuring his perſon among them, without any Guards. But before the Proceſſion was ended it began to ſnow very hard, which did not only cauſe the King to leav them but put a ſtop to the further Celebration of this great Feſtival, which, by the preparations, ſeemed to be intended to be ſolemnized with very great Pomp: for beſides the Contribution of all the Chriſtians, who, as I have elſewhere noted, are very rich, the King ſends the Patriarch a conſiderable Sum of Money ſom time before, in order to the carrying on and maintaining this anniverſary Cuſtom. The Patriarch and Superior Clergy ſeeing there was no hopes of the Weather growing better, they departed without performing the ritual Ceremonies: but the Laïty continued Dancing and Singing all the Night long.

In the mean while the Caravan was in a readineſs to depart for Gammeron, and the Heer Bent gave order for Horſes and Camels to be bought up for us, to carry our Proviſion and Baggage. He alſo took care to buy us all Neceſſaries we had occaſion for on our Journey and was pleaſed to appoint me as Caffil Abaſsi, or Overſeer of the Proviſion. About this time it froſe very hard, and as I not without wondring ſaw Ice 3 Foot thick, which was averred never to be known in that Countrey in any mans Age. How hard a ſeaſon it was for poor People may be gathered from what I have already ſaid how ſcarce all kind of Fewel is is Iſpahan.

CHAP. XXXIII. The great Civility of Hadſi Biram. The Authors Departure out of Iſpahan. Their incommodous Travelling thrô the Snow. Wells and Pits of Water abounding with Fiſh. They are much incommodated in their Travailing. The Caravan aſſailed by Robbers. Their Superſtitious horrour of Swines Fleſh. Sepulchre of Schach Solyman's Mother. The Sepulchre of Noah, his Wife, Children, and Childrens Children. Tzilminar. The Pompous Relicts and Ruins of the famous Perſepolis, and the noble Fort thereof. The Statue of Ruſtan, a Perſian Champion.

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ON the 17 of February we had order to make ready for our Journey,FEB. 1672. wherefore that morning I went to return my hearty Thanks to my good Maſter, Hadzi Byram, where coming and finding him at home I ſaluted him after the Perſian manner, withall manifeſting my gratefullneſs to him for his many Favours, which he had ſhown me, althô without the leſt deſerts; but he interpelling me in my diſcourſe, forbad me to talk any more of that, ſaying, I have not yet him ſo worthy as to give you the Reward I promiſed you: which was to ſet you free when you came to Iſpahan, and now I underſtand you have redeemed your ſelf with your own Money: however I ſhall make it good to you by an Equivalent. With that he opened a Cheſt and gave me 100 Dollars, ſaying, This I give you as part of Reward, for your care to ſave my life when I was in danger of looſing it at the Caſpian Sea. This extraordinary great Bounty coming ſo beſides my expectation, put me to a ſtand what reply to make at firſt, but conſidering how he might look upon it as an Ingratitude to be ſilent, I expreſſed my ſelf after this manner, Sir, I am not able ever to do you ſuch ſervice as may recompenſe your Goodneſs, but I hope that GOD will remember your Bounty don in ſecret, which is the trueſt Charity, notwithſtanding the unworthineſs of my ſelf on whom it is ſhown. Great reaſon it is that I ſhould record the worthy Deeds of this Turkiſh Chriſtian or Chriſtian Turk: not only as don to me, but as don to one of another Faith, and that without vain Glory, a thing he ever hated: his calling me aſide and forbidding me to make it known, manifeſt the Abſoluteneſs and Integrity of Charity, well knowing that I was juſt upon my departure, and conſequently not [Page] likely to be his Trumpeter: but the more he charged me to conceal it the more I reckon it my Office to publiſh it, that Chriſtians whoſe firſt and chief Duty towards their Neighbour is Charity, and that the remiſsneſs of that Duty may be convinced by thoſe who hold it as a voluntary and not an injoyned Act. In ſum his fair Carriage towards me, unfortunately thrown from a Condition of Freedom to a State of Slavery, had ſo far ingaged me to love and honour him, that (had it not been for the Reſtriction and Care of a Wife and Children who lived all this time as Widdow and Orphans) I could have bin more content to ſerv him all my Life as a Slave, than to have the Liberty which I have before and ſince enjoyed, with ſuch Anxiety. When, with a faint Heart and Eies full of Tears, I took my laſt leav of him he embraced me, and told me he had yet hopes to ſee me once again, and when I was at a diſtance, cried out, GOD in the higheſt Heavens conduct you: GOD Almighty bring you in ſafety home: which were the laſt words I heard him ſpeak.

Departure of the Author from Iſpahan.My two Companions, to wit, C. Brand, and L. Fabritius were returned back again to Derbent, with intent to go by way of Ruſsia, and I departed with the Caravan of the Honorable the Eaſt India Company, from the Royal City Iſpahan, having a ſufficient number of Camels and Mules to carry our Proviſion and Baggage to Gammeron.

Mayar.The ſame day we travailed 8 Leagues and about 10 a Clock came to a village called Majar, where we took up our nights Lodging. We had alſo in our Company ſom of thoſe Perſians, of whom I have already made mention that live ſtill in Heatheniſm, whom I found very civil and faithfull in all their Doings.

On the 18 it was very cold weather and ſnowy, that we could hardly keep a Horſeback. The ſnow was here thicker than ever I have ſeen it (to my knowledge) in the Low-Countreys, being between 4 and 5 Foot deep upon the Ground, and the Path ſo narrow, that the Horſes oftentimes going out of the Way, tumbled down in the ſnow with the Packs, which happening ſo often mainly detarded that days Journey. Before night we got the hilly Countrey and ſet down in the village Caniſcha, where, by reaſon of bad Weather, we reſted 3 days with the Caravan.

Upon the 22 we ſet forward again and had very hilly way, which [Page] proved ſo incommodous that we travailed that day no more than 6 Dutch Miles, and took our Nights reſt at a Carawanſera, where we met another Caravan coming from Gammeron richly loaden with all ſorts of Indian Commodities, and bound for ſeveral Markets in Perſia.

On the 23 we broke up and the ſame day had bad and ſlippery way inſomuch that ſom of our Camels and Horſes fell, whereby the Cheſts and Goods were much endamaged. The Heer Bent, as I ſaid before, having appointed me as Caffil Abaſsi, or Overſeer, it was my duty to look to the reparation of this Damage, and to ſee the Cheſts effectually mended, and therefore I went to ſee if I could meet with any Perſon who could help me in the Village, letting the Caravan remain ſo long in a Carawanſera. At laſt after much enquiry I found one, but coming back underſtood that my Portmantle and my Money was ſtole, which put me in a great ſtrait for I had not above the value of 25 gild. [or 55 ſh. ſterling.] left I ſuſpected that ſom of our Company was the Party that had committed the Theft, and had alſo a privat hint given me of it. The matter concerned me ſo far, that I forthwith began to tax the Party with it that I had in ſuſpicion, but he ſtoutly denied it, and was ſo diſpleaſed at me for blemiſhing his Reputation, that he intimated the matter to ſom of his Companions, who unanimouſly ſwore to be revenged on me and taking their opportunity fell all together upon me, and uſed me in moſt cruel manner. It was the Brother of the Party that told me, averring that he had ſeen it, but when he came to confront him; denied every word he ſpoke to me, inſomuch that I was fain for the time being to be patient, yet fully reſolved to have it out of his Hide the firſt opportunity. That day we travailed 7 Dutch Miles and came at night to a Village formerly called Jurgeſtan, now Ieſegas.

On the 24 we broke up again, and that morning met a Poſt coming from Gameron, and intending for Iſpahan, of whom I underſtood that the Director van der Duſſen, who had remitted the Money for my Redemption was gone for Batavia. Theſe Tidings I muſt confeſs, were very unwelcom to me, becauſe I knew it would be 4 Moneths before any Ships would go for Batavia, the more becauſe I was to endure the hot ſeaſon at Gameron. This day we travailed 6 Dutch Miles and at night came to a fair new-built Carawanſera.

The next day we broke up and paſſed thrô a fair Town called [Page] Surina. About 12 a clock it began to ſnow very hard, ſo continuing till the Evening when we met with a good Carawanſera, which was no ſmall comfort to us, having no ſtomach to lie ſuch weather without a Roof in the open Field. The ſame day we travailed 7 Dutch Miles.

On the 25 we had very good weather, and the Way alſo reaſonable good ſo that in good time we got to a Carawanſera, which lay about 8 Dutch Miles, or ſomthing more from the other. Near this place are divers Ponds of ſweet Water affoarding alſo great plenty of Fiſh: wherefore we went to Angle, and took about 40 Carps, which becauſe of the Novelty were very acceptable, having eaten nothing all the way but ſalt Meat. Theſe Ponds as well as the Carawanſera were made, as we underſtood from an Inſcription over the Door, at the Charges of the Dutch Eaſt India Company.

On the 26 we had very high Hills to clamber over, ſo that the hollow places in the way being fill'd with ſnow, put us (notwithſtanding all the care and vigilance we could uſe) to a great deal of trouble, for the way being very ſlippery, the Camels, Mules and Horſes often ſtumbled and fell, which greatly endamaged the Cheſts which were but newly and very looſly repaired. Beſides that it ſnew very thick all the Forenoon, which made us long for a Carawanſera, that we could not reach till late at night coming to the Village Gufti, where we reſted for that night, having made no more than 5 Dutch Miles the whole day. That night and the next day it continued ſnowing, ſo that we reſolved to continue under roof till the weather grew better. About noon came a Caravan from S [...]yras, but we having taken up the place, they were fain to go forward till they found another.

The Caravan ſurprized by Robbers.On the 27 the weather grew better and the Sun ſhone, ſo that we proceeded on our Journey, but having travailed an hour or two, we were ſurprized by ſom Robbers, who all on a ſudden aſſail'd us and beſet the Caravan round, and fell a tearing all they could com at. Our Company, being affraid of their lives deſerted the Camels and left me alone to ſtand out the brunt of all. One of the Robbers thruſt his hand into a Bag in which were 3 or 4 Flitches of Bacon and ſom Hams, who, when he came to know what it was, fell a curſing and menacing me, that I did not warn him, for he was thereby unclean, and according to the Mahometan Superſtition not to com into the Society of others, or enter the Temple. That Gnat, it ſeems he ſtrain'd [Page] at, yet ſtuck not to ſwallow a Camel. Having taken what they could carry they left me, but not without a Token to remember them, giving me ſo many Rebounders about the Head with their Truncheons, that I was taken up for Dead by my faithfull Fellow-Travellers, who came again when they ſaw there was none to moleſt'em. That day we travailed 24 [Engliſh] Miles, and at night came to a very commodious and ſtately Carawanſera, ſuch as I had not met with all the way unleſs in ſom great City, being all round with Galleries.

On the 28 we ſet forward on our Journey and came to a fair Village called Meſtzid, where we had a very commodious Carawanſera, and ſtay'd there that night. The ſaid Carawanſera was nothing inferior to that we had the night before, aſwell in reſpect of Conveniency as ornament, having much variety of Carved work, as Foliage, Fructurage, &c. after the Perſian manner: the Walls alſo were covered with a neat ſort of white glazed Tiles. Near to this Place is the Sepulchre and Tomb of the Mother of Schach Solyman, The Sepulchre of Schach Solymans Mother. being a fair Monument of white Marble: hither repair many devout Women to viſit the Tomb and pour out their Prayers and Supplications for themſelvs and Friends, which I remark'd was very brief, for they only (according to the general Injunction) puſh'd the Tomb with their Head 3 times, and as often ſtooped to kiſs it, then muttered out a ſhort prayer, which doubtleſs they have by form, and ſo departed. Having ſtay'd there that night we went in the Morning to buy up ſom freſh Proviſions and Fruits, that place being very famous for Winter-growth of Fruits, both as to plenty and Cheapneſs.

On the For it was Leap year. Nine and Twentieth of Febr. we came to a little village called Siwa, having that day travailed 5 Dutch Miles.

The next day we ſet forward on our Journey and travailing a good pace, came pretty early into the village Mardaſch, where we reſolved to reſt a little being almoſt wearied out with the badneſs of the Way and Weather. The next morning I took a turn without Town on Horſe-back, with one of our Company; where having rode about 2 Miles to the Eaſtward from the Town, we deſcried a huge fair Pile of Building, which afterwards by ſom Pilgrims that we met, we underſtood was a Sepulchre. The general Structure was a very fair Temple altogether built of Marble, ſtanding on a riſing ground and ſupported with 10 high and maſſy Pillars. When we entred we [Page] aſcended ſeveral ſteps,MAR. 1672. and went thrô a very ſtately Gate of fair white and ſpeckled Marble; but underſtood very well that [...] Chriſtian was permitted to enter, leſt they ſhould pollute it: however being ſhorn after their manner, and having no diſcrepance of Habit whereby they might ſuſpect me to be any other than a very Muſulman, I went boldly in to view all that was to be ſeen, which a privat Perſon and a Layman was permitted to view, for the innermoſt Vault is not to be ſeen unleſs of Princes and the Spiritualiſts. Above the ſaid Vault hung ſeveral golden Lamps, which burn continually, and as the Watchmen told us the Coffins that ſtood below were of maſſy Gold. In this Sepulchre they told us were preſerved the Bones of Noah and his Wife, of Shem, Ham and Japhet, together with the 5 Sons of Shem, viz, Ashur, Arphaxad, Lud, Aram and Elam, by whom the City See Joſephus. Perſepolis is ſaid to be firſt founded of old called Elamus. This was told me by an old Perſian, with whom I had ſom Diſcourſe, who alſo ſaid that he had the keeping of ſom old Regiſters and Antiquities. Here they alſo ſhow ſeveral Skeletons and Pieces of Bones to Pilgrims in Golden Diſhes, which they ſay are the Bones of Noah and of his Grand-child Elam [but beleev it that liſt]

From this Temple we poſted forward to the Ruins of the Royal Fort called Schilminar, on Tzilminar, or according to the variety of the Dialects Cehilminar, which is as much as to ſay Forty Pillars, ſo called from ſuch a number of Columns that it has formerly had; althô the number is now ſufficiently diminiſhed, partly by the negligence of the Perſians, in reparation of the ſame, and partly from other Occaſions which make 'em to uſe ſom of the Stones of this ſaid Caſtle: beſides the great diseſteem which the Mahometans have for Heatheniſh Antiquities, rather inclined to raſe and demoliſh, than maintain and repair the Relicts of Gentiliſm, eſpecially what has bin built to any ſuperſtitious End. Thoſe Pillars that remain ſtill whole are 9 Cubits high, and about Five in compaſs at the Baſis. I told about 18 or 20 of thoſe ſaid Pillars that were whole to the Chapiter. It retains ſtill the name of K. Darius his Palace that being his Manſion-houſe. The ancient Greek and Latin Writers aſcribe the Founding of it to Cyrus, but the Perſians to one Schach Iamſcha, which I preſume cannot be reconciled: but however their Difference in Opinion be, certain it is that the Founder muſt have bin a mighty Prince, who hath [Page] [Page]

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[Page] [Page] raiſed ſuch an admirable Structure, appearing more like a vaſt City than one entire Building: and ſuch was the Satisfaction I reaped from it, that I ſhould not have repented my Labour to have travailed a Thouſand Miles to ſee it. This ſtupendious Palace is ſeated, as appears by the Ruins, on a Plain, environed on every ſide with Hills, and has extended it's Compaſs as far as the Hill called Kuhirahmet, which is as much as to ſay, the Mount of Mercy. On the Eaſt are two places of Entry with Marble Stairs, each ſtep being 30 Foot long and 17 of thoſe ſteps are wrought out of one Stone, which [...]t neceſſarily have been a very great one, each ſtep being half a Foot high. Being aſcended 32 or 33 of thoſe Steps we came at a great ſquare Reſting place the Walls and Pavement whereof was altogether of hard and poliſhed Marble. On each ſide were the Images of divers Beaſts as Lions, Elephants, Griſſins, Horſes and others Animals, afterwards we came into a large and ſpacious place, about 90 Paces ſquare, where were Eight Gates, 4 whereof were 4 Paces and 3 Two Paces wide. Above and on each ſide of theſe Gates were divers Statues and other Figures, which for their Boldneſs, due Conſtruction of Members, Symmetric of Parts, Analogy of Depreſſion and Eleva [...]on, Holding and Foreſhortning of Plains, with all other Tokens of true Art, ſurpaſs all the Carved works that ever I have ſeen either in Greece, Italy, or the whole World beſides, that I have had the Fortune to ſee. Below ſtood a hard bright poliſhed Stone, ſet faſt in the Wall which might have ſerved for a Mirror, on which was an Inſcription in very ancient Characters ſuch as the modern Perſians cannot read. The Letters below were broad and riſing higher grew ſmaller towards the Top like an Obeliſk. I had work enough to view all the Images that were up and down, as of Giants, Lions, Bulls, Griffins, Tygres, The Olympian, or Games of Hercules, Battels, &c. The Statues have moſtly Weapons, Inſtruments of Muſic, or Garlands in their Hands. Here and there are ſeveral Horſemen armed with Bow and Quiver, Som with Spears, Rondaces, Scymiters and ſuch like Weapons. Their Habit is very ſtrange and ſeems to be very ancient: ſome have round Bonnets as the noble Venetians now, and Knights Templars of old uſed to wear. Abov the great Gate is a huge Statue appearing abov the reſt, having a long Rob [...] on, with curled hair and a long Beard, a Torſe about his Head as [Page] formerly the Roman Emperours were went to have: under his Robe he had a Veſture full of Foldings which were very ſoft and ſilk-like, the ſleeves were very looſely cut and wide, hanging down like a Surplice, [or as thoſe of a Batchlor of Art in Oxford] In one hand he had a Mond, and in the other a Staff or Scepter. The Perſians ſay that it is the Statue of Solomon King of the Hebrews, but I rather take it to be Alexander the Great, becauſe of the Mond, who was the firſt Monarch (according to Hiſtory) that was ſo painted, as ſuppoſing himſelf to have conquered the whole World, and for ſom time had his Reſidence in this Palace. Beſides this were on each ſide ſeveral others which ſeemed to be of leſs degree and meaner Perſonages, a [...] well by the Places where they ſtood as by the Habit, being clad in ſhorter Robes and narrow Veſtures, with ſleevs cloſe at the wriſt, like the Peſantry about Derbent. Som of theſe had long old-faſhion'd Spears, others led Horſes and Mules, and others brought oxen and Sheep with Mallets, Hatchets, Knives and other Implements for Slaughter as if they were a going to Offer. In this ſpacious Hall were alſo many other Figures as Emblemes, which were too dark and abſtru [...]e for me to unriddle. Leaving this Appartment we went into another more wide and ſpacious than the former. At one End wa [...] another Statue cloſe and (as I ſuppoſed) faſt to the Walls, which by the Crown, or rather Cap of State, ſeemed to be ſom Prince. H [...] was on his knees, and as it were, praying to the Sun, Fire and a Se [...] pent. The Inhabitants told me that it was the Image of Jamſchet, o [...] Je [...]ſcha to whom, as I have already ſaid, the Perſians aſcribe th [...] Founding. The moſt part of thoſe Statues were gilded, and appea [...] ſo yet. There were alſo ſeveral Battails admirably well don, and had good Symmetry and Proportion according to the Diſtance, Holding and Perſpective, all hewn out of black Marble and ſet faſt in the Wall. When this illuſtrious Pile has bin in it's glory, might no [...] only have bin recounted among the Wonders of the World, but fo [...] it's admirable rare Works and ſtupendious Structure, well have claim'd the Priority as Paramount, according to the appearance of it's Ruins, which I found conformable to what is recorded of it in Hiſtory, for there appears the Foundation of a triple Wall; the firſt or outmoſt was about 32 Foot high, having many Bulwarks and Towers, which have bin as excellent for their Ornament as Strength [Page] as ſufficiently appears by what is ſtill remaining. The ſecond ſeems to have been nothing inferior to the firſt for Beauty nor Strength, and twice as high: The third was 120 Foot high: on each ſide was a Paſſage to enter, where were many Watch-Towers and Gates of durable and hardeſt Marble. Theſe Fortifications were alſo environed with Palliſados of huge Beams, and many Batteries, to the Terror of the Enemy. It is neither to be known nor gueſſed what an immenſe Treaſure this vaſt Fabric has coſt, when it has bin firſt founded: and it is highly to be lamented that ſuch a ſtately Fabric ſhould be laid waſt upon ſuch a light account, which in ſom manner might be thought intranſitory, or not to ſuffer decay ſo long as Art had any Countenance upon Earth. The Hiſtorians all concurr in this Opinion that it was burn'd by Qu▪ Curtius lib. 5. Alexander the Great in a drunken [...]od, at the inſtigation of the notable Whore Thaïs, who perſwa [...]d him that he could not gratify the Greeks and ſpite the Perſians [...]ore, than to ſet this City on Fire, which had ever bin a Terror, not only to Greece but to the whole World. Upon this Motiv the King [...]ent himſelf in Perſon and lay the firſt fire to it, being imitated [...] a Train of Courtiers and Whores all beſotted with drink, ſo [...]t this wonderfull great and the moſt ſplendid Palace in the Uni [...]ſe was in a moment laid in Rubbiſh, there being much Cedar in [...] When the Soldiers ſaw all on a flame, they ran to quench it but [...]ing the King very buſy in ſetting it on Fire, they fell to a con [...]ry work, and in ſtead of indeavouring to quench it brought wood increaſe the Fire; whence it appears that the ſtrongeſt Fort, I pre [...]e, that ever was, or is in the World, was demoliſhed by the powerful Intereſt of Women and effects of Wine.

About 2 Leagues from Chehilminar are the Ruins of ſom Statues,The Image of Ruſtan a Perſian Champion. and amongſt others one which they ſay was the Image of Ruſtan, a [...]erſian Champion of great fame; for which reaſon every great Hero among them that has performed any valorous Atchievment is called [...]ſtan, and glories as much in that, as the Greeks of old by the uſurped [...]me of Achilles, or the Roman Stage-players in the name of Roſcius. [...]his Image as alſo all the reſt are about 3 times as great as the Life, [...]d armed with Clubbs and other ancient Armor. But to rehearſe [...] the Fables that the Perſians told me of thoſe Heros, would rather [...]pair the Credit of what is already ſaid in conformity with Truth [Page] than giv Satisfaction to the Curious; wherefore here as in many other places where I might have interſperſed ſuch Dreams, I thought good to ſpare the pains of relating them.

CHAP. XXXIV. Arrival at Scyras. They meet with ſom Carmelites. The baſe dealings of thoſe of the Caravan. The Author meets with the Theef that had pillaged him. Mr. Stru [...] well entertained by a French Chirurgeon. A Deſcription of Scyras. Dive [...] Meſtzids, or Sepulchres. The Pallace of the Chan. Excellent Wine abo [...] Scyras. Noble Orchards. Departure from Scyras. The Special Bounty o [...] the Carmelites and the French Chirurgeon. Dates plentiful and cheap. How the Date-trees are propagated. Arrival at Scharim. They meet a Caravan. Aſſailed by night of 30 Robbers, who kill 5 Men of the Company, and at [...] by a unanimous continuance of the Caravan force them to yield. The Robbers b [...] Quarter which is refuſed. They ſuffer themſelvs to be bound, are diverſly to [...] tured and diſpatched. Great plenty of Partridges.

AFter we had refreſhed our ſelvs and reſted the Caravan, we go [...] all in a readineſs, and the firſt day towards the Evening came [...] the Village Alikon, which we found well pleniſhed with all neceſſ [...] ries and Refreſhments for our ſelvs, and good Provender for o [...] Horſes and Camels. Thus having ſpent the fore part of the nig [...] in mirth and divertiſement, we took our reſt, and the next d [...] purſued our Journey coming on the 8 of March to Scyras, where brought the Goods of the Eaſt India Company into their Ware-hou [...] there.

So ſoon as I was arrived at Scyras I came to underſtand that the [...] was a Monaſtery of Carmelites in the Town who had bin always friendly to Chriſtian Paſſengers and Travailers in aſſiſting them with th [...] advice, &c. Whereupon I went to find out the Convent, and bei [...] come got ſpeech with 2 of them who received me very kindly, a [...] deſired me to lodge in the Convent ſo long as I ſtay'd at Scy [...] and treated me all the while with all the Delicacies they cou [...] get, and the Wine that the Countrey affoarded. The one was a [...] Italian of the City of Naples by name Felicello; the other a Pole fro [...] Warſaw and called Jadiſtau.

[Page]During my aboad here our Caravans Company had made unanimous reſolution among themſelvs not to proceed on their Journey with me, and that upon very ſlender and weak pretences: they had already received half their Moneys at Iſpahan, and we were not half way by much: but whether it was becauſe my Money was ſtollen, or becauſe (perhaps) that they feared to be examined about the Theft when we came to Gameron and ſo condignly puniſhed, I cannot determin: But whatſoever their Reaſon was, they left me there at a great loſs, ſo that I was fain to ſeek out a new Conduct, and ſupply my ſelf with freſh Camels and Horſes, which without the help of the 2 Monks had bin impoſſible for me to accompliſh.

The third day after my arrival at Scyras I went without the Town to walk, and accidentally found the Thief who had ſtole my Moneys, and with the help of his Brother had ſo miſuſed me, as was ſaid before, bathing himſelf in the River, ſo that ſeeing ſo fair an opportunity to revenge the Villany, I ran towards him and with a Damaſkin Scymiter I alwaies wore, gave him an excellent Croſs on the Cheek, and beſides that lent him a few ſlaſhes about his back and ſhoulders, which don I took his clothes and cut them all to patches, [...]o that the poor Caitiff was fain to go mother naked into the Town. I threatned him alſo to write to Iſpahan, and make complaint at Court, and in order thereto to addreſs my ſelf to the Chan of Scyras to diſpatch the Letters. This it ſeems put him into ſuch Conſternation as well as his Companions, that he durſt not appear abroad to challenge me for any injury don him, fearing, perhaps, upon my addreſs to the Deputy that they would be ſecured till further Information: nor did I ever ſee him ſince.

Beſides the gentle Reception and the great kindneſs theſe Friars ſhowd me, I was kindly treated by one Doctor Robin, a French-man, which the Perſians called Hakim Robin, for Hakim in their Tongue is as much as to ſay Doctor: but his firſt name I cannot remember. This ſame Gentleman, I muſt confeſs, ſhowed me great friendſhip, and ſent a Letter for me to Holland incloſed in his own. So that in the hardeſt and greateſt extremities I ever found ſom Friends, and when I was almoſt in deſpair of ever returning to my priſtin State, and plunged in the moſt grievous Miſeries, obtained nevertheleſs by the Providence of Almighty GOD, ſom unexpected Sublevation; [Page] that I ſhould know what it is to be miſerable, and what it is to be thankfull.

Scyras as moſt other Towns in Perſia lies in a Valley, environed on every ſide with Hills. On that ſide towards Iſpahan is only one Thorowfare or Paſſage, which is laid ore with an Arch all over painted with variety of Beaſts and Animals, and inſcribed in ſeveral Places with Turkiſh and Perſian Rhymes and Mottos. When one is paſſed thrô the ſaid Arch is a fair and ſpacious ſtreet, which leads to the City, being plain, wide, eaven, and planted on each ſide with Trees [like the Palmal in Saint James's Park] which with the great number of Gentlemens Houſes on each ſide renders it as an amiable Paradiſe. At the end of the way is a ſtill ſtanding pool or pond, which is drawn off with a Trench on each ſide: having paſt this we come over a Plain or Flat field, and juſt before the Gates of the City to a great long Stone-bridge which lies over a Ditch, which in the Summer time is dry, but in the Winter gives the Inhabitants work enough to keep it in with damming, for ſomtimes when it ſnows and the Water falling unexpectedly from the Mountains it overflows the whole champain Land, between the aforeſaid Pool and the Ditch, is a little Chappel founded by a Carmelite Friar, which is often viſited by the Chriſtians that live in Scyras. The Maydan or Market of Scyras is without the Walls, which they ſay is by reaſon that this Place is of great Importance and in danger of being ſurprized or taken in by the Boors that live without the Perſian Juriſdiction, who have more than once attempted to make themſelvs Maſters of the Town and Fort. On each ſide the Town appear the Ruins of Old Walls, Gates, Towers, Pillars and other great Buildings, which is a fair argument that Scyras has bin formerly much larger than it is now at this day, which is nevertheleſs a Town of conſideration, in reſpect of the preſent Trade and number of Inhabitants. The greateſt part of the City Walls are of Marble, for that is there in greater plenty than Friſe [or Portland] Stone with us: but as for the Streets they are neither fair nor ſpacious, but void of elegant building and uniformity of ſtructure, and by reaſon that they lie unpav'd very foul and hardly to be paſſed in bad and rainy Weather. There alſo many Meſtzids, or Churches but thoſe very mean and hardly worth our taking notice of: onely one which they call Sadur, being as the Cathedral or [Page] [Page]

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[Page] [Page] Minſter may paſs for an eminent Building, in which they ſay that one of Mahomets Succeſſors lies interred. Within it appears with great magnificency, and is very well ordained as to it's ſtructure and Order of Colums; in the middle is a Chore, or Quire, which receives it's light from a Lanthorn or Tower of Glaſs above. The next remarkable Temple is that of Aga Riza a very rich Indian Merchant who founded it at his proper Charges and left a conſiderable ſum to erect him a Tomb at the Eaſt and thereof. There is a very fair Baſar round about with rich Shops and many Galleries. There is alſo an Academy which may take place with the beſt public Edifices about Town, in which are taught the Literature there in uſe, beſides variety of other diſcipline and ſciences. Theſe are all the Buildings that are of any note in Scyras ſave only the Palace of the Deputy, which is environed with a thick ſtone Wall, and has on each ſide ſeveral ſpacious and fair Galleries.

The Land round about Scyras is very fertile, produces great plenty of Corn and Fruit, but abov all is eminent for the rich Vineyards; inſomuch that this Place and Countrey has got the name beyond all the Provinces in Perſia for delicate Wine, ſurpaſſing not only the Candian and Canary-Wines but all the Wines in the World for a delicate taſt, reliſh, and flavor. From hence the King of Perſia and all the great Perſonages at Iſpahan have their Wine, and hither repair the Engliſh and Dutch to market: nay, ſuch is the eſteem thereof, that notwithſtanding the great abundance of the yearly product, it is as dear here as Canary Sack in the Low-Countreys. This Trade in Wines which they of Scyras have is at preſent ſo conſiderable that there is not ſo much as half an Acre together of waſt ground, or hardly imployed in any other uſe, for the Vineyards com ſo cloſe to the Town that one may throw a ſtone from the Walls into them. Such ground as is not proper to nouriſh the vine they convert to Orchard uſe, and have many fair Arborets or Nurſeries for young Fruit-Trees of all ſorts, which are tranſported hence to other Places, the Fruit of this Countrey being nothing inferior to their Wines. They have abundance of Oranges, Cittrons, Pomegranats, Almonds, Dates, Apples, Pears and almoſt all Fruits that I have ſeen elſewhere, inſomuch that the Town of Scyras, as one beholds the Countrey from ſom high building or Tower ſeems to ſtand in the Center of an Earthy [Page] Paradiſe. Without the City is a Ward inhabited by a People that came from Babylon, when that City was taken in by the Turks. Without ſtands a fair Houſe built for charitable uſe, where all the Poor of the City that are deſtitute of a Meals meat may have their needs ſupplyed at the Kings charges, if they have the humility to fetch it: this Houſe is called Aly Kapin where there are ſeveral perſons in ſervice to dreſs Victuals for the ſaid uſe, and have as good cuſtom as all the Inns in Scyras.

Having ſtaid here a conſiderable time, and ſo nobly entertained by the ſaid Carmelites all the while I was in Scyras, I went to take my leave of them, giving them many Thanks (the only Treſure I had by me) for their many Civilities, and ſetting forward on our Journey came at night to a good and very commodious Carawanſera, where we took our Reſt. Near this Place was a Fiſh-pond in which ſom of our company got great ſtore of Fiſh on a ſudden, with a Hook and Line, for they were alwaies provided therewith to uſe when occaſion and opportunity concurred.

The next day it blew hard and was intermixed with ſhowers of Rain, ſo that we had very bad travailing and almoſt wearied out. Towards the Evening I happened to eſpy ſom perſons driving on very hard after us, and coming nearer, to my great joy and happineſs I deſcryed that it was Father Feliſello the Carmelite, and Doctor Robine, who were going for Gameron to direct ſom affairs they had there.

Beſides my good Fortune to enjoy the Company of ſuch Friends I was further obliged by freſh kindneſſes, they offering me alwaies to eat with them, till we came to our Journeys end, which was no ſmall happineſs for me, conſidering my mean Condition, and great ſtrait, being very ſhort of Moneys and almoſt in deſpair of coming to Gameron with the Charge I had upon me. I cannot but tell you how much I was aſhamed to be ſo careſſed by Strangers, who had nothing to expect from me, and loath I was to be ſo burthenſom to them of whoſe hands I had not deſerved the ſmalleſt friendſhip and kindneſs that they manifeſted towards me, yet being ſo cruelly ſtraitned on every hand I was forced to accept of their Offer. They held a very noble Table, and had taken along with them a great Caſe of Bottles full of Scyras Wine, which they ſpared not ſo long as it laſted. [Page] The Doctor had with him 3 Men to attend him and was every where highly reſpected, being a Gentleman of a ſweet Temper, diſcreet and and ſociable, ſo that my Journey ſeemed much ſhorter for his Company. This day, being as I ſaid very bad weather, we hardly travailed 6 Dutch Miles.

The next day ſetting forward we came at night to a Village called D [...]bba, where we ſet our Caravan down. This Village appeared like a Camp or Army with their Tents, the Cottages being ſo mean, and the higheſt houſe hardly ſufficient for a tall man to ſtand upright, being built only of Reeds and Twigs plated like Baſket-work and [...]aubed over with clay. The Inhabitants like the Cottages they lived [...]n were very poor and deſpicable People, inſomuch that we had not much Divertiſement or accommodation there. This day we hardly [...]vanced 5 Dutch Miles.

On the 4 we ſet forward and went over very Rocky and hilly way, [...]ſſing through ſeveral villages.Great ſtore of Dates. Upon thoſe Hills grow great [...]ore of Dates, and are ſo cheap that one may buy 100lb. weight for the [...]lue of 2 Shillings Sterl. and are both of an excellent taſt and lovely [...]lour.The ſtrange manner of procreation of thoſe Trees. The Date-tree ſeems to have ſom harmony with living Ani [...]als, in their Procreation, and have alſo their Sexes. The Female will [...]ot bear any Fruit if planted alone, ſo that they are always planted [...]y Pairs together all along, and indeed do naturally grow ſo. But [...]he Female growing old will not bear Fruit, unleſs they take a piece of the Top-branch of the Male and ingraft it in the Female, which they alſo do to ſom young Trees to make them bring forth good Fruit, which would otherwiſe be of a bitter and odious Taſt. I have [...]rther remark'd that when the Male and Female are planted a ſmall diſtance aſunder they will lean towards each other, as if there were ſom mutual ſympathy between them. The Inhabitants who have bin, from one Generation to another, uſed to plant and propagate theſe Trees told me many remarkable things about them, which becauſe I will not be prolix, I ſhall ommit. This day we travailed 7 Dutch Miles, and at night got a fair Carawanſera to take our reſt in.

The next day we had very dry ground and a barren Countrey to paſs thrô, and in ſom places rocky, ſo that we travailed that day no more than 5 Miles. On our way and near the Carawanſera which we took up for that night, we ſaw great Flocks of wild Goats which [Page] ſom of our Company had a great mind to taſt, and went out in th [...] Evening upon the Chace, but the Creatures were too cunning to b [...] catch'd, ſo that our Hunters were fain to return to the Carawanſe [...] hungry and weary. The ſeaſon being ſharp and cold we laid on great pile of wood, and warmed our ſelvs throughly.

The day following in the Afternoon we came to a Town call [...] Scharim, which I preſume had bin anciently a City and walled i [...] it ſtood in the middle of a grove altogether of Date-Trees. It is all a Town of conſiderable Traffic in conſideration of their Manufact [...] rie in Cottons, there being very many Weevers. There is alſo a ve [...] fair Market-place, where beſides the many Shops of their own M [...] nufactories, are ſeveral rich Ware-houſes of Silks and Perſi [...] Stuffs, in which they alſo drive a great Trade and have correſpo [...] dence with the greateſt Marts in all the Countrey round. Beſides t [...] great Concourſe of Trading-people, they have a Market twice a we [...] for the Boors, which is no ſmall advantage to the Town. Findi [...] this a very commodious place to reſt in, we tarried here 3 days refreſh our ſelvs, and eaſe our Camels, Horſes and Mules, having f [...] 3 or 4 days had very bad way and weather.

Having ſufficiently taken our reſt at Scharim, we ſet forward a [...] had very good weather, travailing all the day long thrô a flat Cou [...] trey, and by the way ſaw many Noblemens houſes, and here a [...] there a Grove of Date trees, and many fair Orchards, ſo that th [...] was the moſt pleaſant days Journey we had from Iſpahan. Here [...] met a huge Caravan conſiſting of a great Troop of Men, Camels Mules, and Sumpter-Horſes loaden with rich Indian Wares. T [...] ſaid Caravan came from Gammeron, and intended to go by the ſame Po [...] we came, being bound for Scamachy and Surwan. In this company met accidentally with a Perſian who had bin our Neighbour at S [...] machy, and delivered him two Letters, the one for my Maſter H [...] Byram which was written in Turkiſh, and the other for my Wife, whi [...] he promiſed to ſend for me by way of Smyrna. At night we ca [...] to have very rocky and ill way,The Caravan aſſaulted by Robbers in the Carawanſera. but found a Carawanſera where we to [...] our reſt, having travailed that day about 24 Engliſh Miles.

When we were lay down to ſleep we were ſurprized with abo [...] 30 Robbers, that came boldly into the Carawanſera, with intent, as [...] had reaſon to beleev, to murther us all whilſt we were aſleep. 'T [...] [Page] true they did not at firſt make any aſſault but deferred their purpoſe till midnight, thinking perhaps, that we not ſuſpecting them might grow ſupine, and judging our ſelvs ſecure, grow ſo negligent as to fall aſleep; but we thought good to ſet a narrow Watch and kept our ſelvs in a readineſs all the Night, with Weapons in our hand, for fear of a ſudden aſſault. About midnight they fell in and fought outright, ſo that 5 of our Men lay preſently under Feet, being in all 37. We fought joyntly together with good Courage ſo that we ſpeedily allayed their Fury. Our Party as we could obſerve were much ſtronger than theirs, yet if we had not bin unanimous and faithfull to one another we had not com ſo well of, for there was not one Man from the greateſt to the leaſt, but fought manfully and with a good [...]ill, till the very laſt, when they ran into another Room and ſhut [...]e Door after them, which was no ſmall advantage to us: for, when [...]e had them ſo pen'd up we knew our ſelvs ſecure, there being no [...]ther Paſſage for them to com out at. The Door we barricado'd in [...]ith huge Stones, and with all our Carbines and Blunderbuſſes [...]oured in ſhot upon them, ſo long, till they began to beg for Quarter,The Robbers beg Quarter. [...]hich we reſolved not to giv them, but promiſed them the liberty [...] com forth and to ſtand to our mercy. In the mean while we had [...]bſerved that ſeveral of them lay dead and wounded. After they had conſulted a while among themſelvs they reſolved to comforth, but we refuſed to let them com all together, but one by one: keeping a narrow watch at the Door that they ſhould not ruſh out altogether. Having got them out they were very patient and ſuffered us to ty them back to back. Thoſe that were wounded we killed outright; and and when it began to be light we ſet forward on our Journey, taking the reſt being abov 20 along with us, and coming to a Grove of Date-Trees, there hung them up by the heels, and ſtripping off their Cloaths [...]aſhed off their Noſes, Ears and Hands,Their Puniſhment. which we nailed to a Tree as Monuments and Relicts of Roguery, and left the Bodies hanging. How we came to be ſo happy as to conquer thoſe Villains was no ſmall wonder to me, ſince there was never a man among the Company that fought with any other Order than as his Courage led him, ſo that we ſee what ſom will do and can atchieve, when Life and Goods lie at the ſtake. Their Puniſhment 'tis true, was ſevere enough to let them die a lingring Death, but the Loſs of our Companions was ſo precious to [Page] us that could we but have bethought a harder, they had bin ſure t [...] have gon that way to pot: and not have had the opportunity to pre [...] upon Paſſengers again.

Having performed the Hangmans Office we went to our Came [...] and Caravan, leaving the Bodies there for an Example to their Co [...] panions. The way proved very hilly and uneaven, waſt and rocky being of a hard Flint-Stone, and indeed ſo uneaſy that we had mu [...] ado to get all the Camels and Horſes forward, ſom weary and read [...] to lay down, others ſtumbling and others ſtraying, for the way was no beat. However in the Evening after 4 Dutch miles Travail we got Carawanſera, and there reſolved to take our reſt. Here about we ſa [...] great Flocks of Partridges,Great plenty of Partriges. which Father Feliſello who was paſſi [...] dextrous with a Birding-piece, went out to ſhoot, and brought [...] many as ſerved us for ſupper, which we illuſtrated with a Glaſs of d [...] licat Scyras Wine.

CHAP. XXXV. The incommodous Travelling over Mountains. They com into an Inn (or Carawanſe [...] where they are well entertained. Arrival at Lar. A Deſcription of that Tow [...] The Ʋnwholſomneſs of the Air and water there. The Inhabitants given [...] Hoſpitality and Lovers of all kinds of Diſcipline and Science. Mummay Kob [...] a pretious Balſam. Remarkable Monuments of Robbers executed. Depart [...] from Lar. They meet with another Troop of Robbers, whereof 7 are killed They are overtaken by Monſr. Kaſenbroot. Their Arrival at Gamron.

THe next morning being the 12 of March, we got all in a re [...] dineſs in order to our Journey, and had very ſteep and dang [...] rous rocky hills to clamber over, inſomuch that we durſt not ke [...] a Horſe-back but were fain to allight and lead the greateſt part of t [...] way, being in danger if the Horſes ſhould happen to ſtumble to [...] daſht in pieces upon the ſharp Flints which were terrible to look at in reſpect of their acuity and ſharpneſs. Theſe are a part of that Circ [...] of hills which encompaſs the famous Taurus. This day we advance [...] 5 Dutch Miles and got a good Carawanſera.

On the 13 we betook our ſelvs to our Journey, and about 3 in the After-noon got to a Carawanſera. Father Feliſello finding her [...] [Page] ſom ſheep to be ſold bought a Lamb, which althô it was in the Faſt he was reſolved to Feaſt of, ſaying that all Meats was diſpenced with a Travailer who muſt eat what he can and not what he will. But this being the Birth-day of the good Father he was reſolved to celebrate it with a good ſupper, which indeed we had, and drunk good ſtore of Wine to boot, in which we remembred the Catholic King and his Royal Highneſs the Prince of Orange in ſeveral healths, and that to ſuch a Meſure that we were in as good as mood a thoſe Potentates themſelvs could be; in ſhort we were ſo moiſtned within, that we ſlept that night without much care.

On the 14 in the morning betimes we ſet forward and paſſed by ſeveral Pitts which were digged through from one to another under ground, ſo that the water ran through them all. The ſame Pits were well ſtored with Carps and other Fiſh which our Company angled for and took ſeveral, which ſerved us for a Novelty at night, theſe Pitts or rather Ponds were convey'd by a channel or narrow Conduit to a great Stone Ciſtern which was near to a Carawanſera, where we took our Nights reſt, having that day travelled 5 Dutch Miles.

On the 15th. about Noon we came into the Village Barry where we [...]et down and ſtay'd there 2 Days, finding our ſelvs unable to go any further without a Pauſe, and the Camels and other Beaſts almoſt wearied out; underſtanding moreover that we had very hilly and rocky way to paſs over. This day we had only advanced 4 Miles [Dutch]

On the 18th. betimes in the morn we left Barry, and clambered up a very ſteep Hill, meeting by the way ſom Gentlemen that were diverting themſelvs with the Hawk, which there, as well as in Europe, is held for a noble Game, and not a Gentleman but has his Faulcon. In the Afternoon we got the height of the Hill where we found a very old Man, who neither combed nor ſhaved his Hair but let it grow negligently, ſo that it looked like a Mop. This Man as we underſtood afterwards was one, that lived a Heremitical and auſtere Life, being reputed for a Saint among the Inhabitants. The ſaid Hermite came to me and begged that I would give him a pipe of Tobacco which I did, and got his Prayers for it. Having that day travelled 6 Leagues we came pretty late in the Evening to a Carawanſera.

[Page]On the 19 we travailed through a moſt pleaſant Valley, where we ſaw many Boors Cottages and great groves of Date-trees, on the right hand and on the left. We called at a Boors houſe and would have bought of them ſom Milk, but the People would take no Money for it. They aſked me from whence I came, I told them from Surwan Scamachy; but that being a place they had never heard of in their lives, aſked me further if that were as far as Iſpahan, I told them it was more than twice as far, at which they greatly wondred thinking that I muſt needs com from the utmoſt bounds of the World, theſe being a poor ignorant People and never travail farther than their Market Town, which is a little Grange in the Valley, and never heard tell of any Countrey than their own; in ſhort they would have had me to ſtay longer with them, but my Time was too precious to ſpend in anſwering all they would have aſked me. At night we came to the City Laar, where we took up our Reſting place in the Dutch Lodge, where we found very good Convenience, and only an old Man and a Woman to look to the Houſe and aſſiſt the Caravans, who were ſet there by the Company. Here I got the Cheſts and Caſes repaired that were broken and endamaged, by the often falling of the Camels thrô the rocky way.

Laar or Lar is a pretty big Town; but has no Walls to reſiſt or endure a ſtrong ſiege, ſave only ſuch as are made of Bricks that are dry'd in the Sun, but is reaſonably ſtrong in reſpect of its Scituation, as well as for the Fort or Caſtle, which is built upon a Hill on the North-ſide, the Walls thereof are of ſolid ſtone, and the Fort it ſelf ſo ſeated that it can command the whole Town, having one narrow Paſſage to enter it, which is very ſteep: it is ſupplyed with ſeveral pieces of great Ordnance, which the King ſent hither from Ormus, when by the help of the Engliſh he took that City in. About Laar grow abundance of Date-trees, but no Wine, and by reaſon that they have no Commerce or Traffic abroad but poor, muſt ſupply themſelvs with Water, which, as well as the Air here about, is very unwholſom, inſomuch that many times Strangers who are to make uſe of it for want of Wine fall ſick, and are tormented with a ſmall Worm, but long, which breeds between the Skin and the Fleſh, and cannot be taken out without great pain. They ſhow'd me one that was above 5 Foot long, and not ſo thick as an ordinary Goos-quill. [Page] The Inhabitants of Laar are very free and ſociable to converſe withall, and great Lovers of Sciences and Learning. Not far from the Caſtle is a certain Rock out of which iſſues a very precious Balſem, called by the Perſians, Mummay Kobas. This Balſem, or Oil,A moſt precious Balſem proceeding a Rock. is gathered only in the Moneth of June about which time it runs ſtillatim, or drop by drop, out at a Vein. The ſaid Rock from whence it coms is continually guarded with a ſtrict Watch, by Order of the King, and none is ſuffered to touch it upon pain of Death. This Oil is reckoned and well known by experience to be the greateſt Antidot againſt Poyſon in the World, althô never ſo ſtrong; and is therefore held by the King as an ineſtimable Treſure, and never ſuffered to be exported out of his Dominions. The King alſo willing to ſhow any of his Subordinat Princes and Deputies an extraordinary and high Favour, always ſends them a few drops thereof, to make it the greater in eſteem and value, and with one injoyns them, not to ſend it out of the Kingdom, upon pain of his diſpleſure. Without Laar are erected ſeveral Pillars for Monuments of the Execution of ſeveral Robbers, who had made the high Ways unfree to Travel: Half of their Bodies are ſet up on theſe Pillars, and the other half buried in the Ground, being cut aſunder whilſt they are ſtill alive.

Having tarried here 3 Nights and 2 Days, we ſet forward on the 22 and had very bad and rocky way.Abundance of Wild Swine, We ſaw here great Flocks of wild Swine whereof our Company ſhot 2 with their Hand-guns, but durſt not fetch them for fear of the Perſians, that threatned to leav us if we did, for they loath them more than Toads. We alſo ſhot ſeveral Eagles which notwithſtanding they prey upon the Pigs the Perſians fed heartily upon them. This day we travailed 7 Dutch Miles,and Eagles. which we thought more than a diëta rationabilis, or an ordinary Stage, in regard of the badneſs of Way and Weather: and at night had a good Carawanſera.

On the 23 we broke up and paſſed by a fair Town called Pharate, which we left on the right hand. The ſaid Town was pleaſantly ſeated in the middeſt of a Grove of Date-Orange-and Lemmon Trees.The Caravan aſſaulted by Robbers. By the way we met with a Party of Robbers who furiouſly ſet upon us, but finding themſelves too weak betook themſelvs to flight leaving 7 Dead behind them. We alſo loſt 2 Men of our Company that were outright killed in this Bickering, and had ſix wounded. The Dead [Page] we buried near the Way and bound up the wounded. At night we came to a ſmall Village called Sarap, where we took up our nights reſt, having that day advanced 6 Miles.

On the 24 we ſet forward again, and at night came to a great Village which we took up for our Stage, having a fair and ſpacious Carawanſera in it. We had no ſooner diſburthened the Camels, but had 50 or 60 Women who came and proffered us Milk to ſell, and were ſo importunat and troubleſom, that we could not get rid of 'em, till we ſet the Doggs upon them. Theſe went all with their Face uncovered, which I had not ſeen any Honeſt Women in all Perſia do, except in one Village between Scamachy and Iſpahan. This day we had furthered our Journey by 7 Miles.

On the 25 we had a great and weariſom Mountain to travail over at the Foot whereof was a River which we were forced to wade thrô, by reaſon that the ſtone-bridge which had formerly lain over it was broken down. After we had travailed 5 Dutch Miles we took up ou [...] nights reſt in a Carawanſera. But we could here get no manner of Refreſhment, the Countrey round about being dry and barren, producing nothing but Date-trees, that we could ſee.

On the 26 towards night we came to a Grange of Fiſher-men of whom we bought a few for our uſe. We were no ſooner ſet down but came Monſr. Kaſenbroot with his Slaves riding into the Town, being ſent for from Iſpahan to Suratte. The night being very ſtill we could eaſily hear the ruſhing of the main Ocean. That day we had travailed 7 Miles.

On the 27 we went onwards, and about Noon came to a Carawanſera which lay cloſe to the ſhore, and could ſee Ships a ſailing, which filled me with a more than ordinary Joy, not having ſeen ſuch a comfortable ſight in a long time. Hence we ſaw Gammeron and could diſtinctly diſcern the Engliſh and Dutch Flaggs fly abroad that were planted upon the Lodges. However we thought good to tarry there that night having only advanced 4 Dutch Miles, that we might enter Gammeron the fore part of the Day.

On the 28 for the laſt time we made ready for the purſuit of our Journey, and in the Fore-noon came into Gammeron, where we were friendly received and, I by permiſſion of the Heer Françoys de Ha [...]s, then Director brought into the Companies Lodge. At my firſt coming [Page] every one took me for a Perſian, being ſhorn after that manner, but hearing me ſpeak Dutch, they aſked me if I was one of thoſe who were in the ſervice of the Czar of Moſcovia, I anſwered, Yes, and alſo gave them a full Relation of what had paſſed and of the great hardſhip I had ſuffered ſince in Slavery and otherwiſe, about which they were very curious and aſked me divers Queſtions. The Director himſelf was alſo pleaſed to ſend for me into the great Hall where he welcom'd me out of my Slavery, and promiſed to ſend me by the firſt Shipping for Batavia.

CHAP. XXXVI. A Deſcription of Gamron, or Bendar, and the Etymology. The great Traffic with all Nations. Ʋnwholſomneſs of the Air, and Heat at Gamron. Palepunſchen an unwholſom Drink how made. The Earth dry and barren. Fertility of Kiſmiſch. Of the Inhabitants of Gamron. A wonderful Tree growing without the City. An Indian (reputed) Saint. The beſt ſeaſon for ſtrangers to com and Traffic at Gamron. Merchandiſe brought thither by the Engliſh. The Engliſh receiv Toll with the Scach. The Hollanders trade without paying Toll. The Author falls very ſick and in deſpair of Recovery. The kindneſs and bounty of L. van Akerſloot to him. He recovers. Set ſail from Gamron. Arrival at Maſchate and a Deſcription of that Town. The violent Heat about Maſchate which renders the Air very unwholſom. Their Departure from Maſkate. Arrival at Batavia. The Author hires himſelf for Sailmaker. Comes with 7 Ships before Bantham. Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope.

GAmeron is alſo by the Perſians called Bendar, Deſcription of Gammeron ▪ which is as much as to ſay, The Key of the Kingdom, like the Name Derbent, already mentioned. It lies in 27 degr. Northerly Latitude upon the Gulf of Perſia: on each ſide ſtand 2 Caſtles built after the old manner of Fortification, but very ſtrong and able to command the Haven from ſide to ſide: they are alſo well ſupplied with Men and [...]ave good ſtore of Ammunition. That part of the Town which lies toward the Countrey is munited with a reaſonable ſtrong Wall; and has without at a convenient Diſtance ſeveral Redoubts, to defend the Upper Quarter of the City; There is alſo a conſiderable ſtrong Redoubt. on the Coaſt. Gammeron is in reſpect of it's commodious [Page] ſite becom a very famous Emporium and that on a ſudden, being lately a poor ſmall Town, inhabited by Fiſhers It is frequented by Indians, The Strong Trade at Gammeron. Moors, English, French and Hollanders, who drive here a mighty Trade which three laſt have their Houſes of Reſidence next to the ſhore, and ſtand very Convenient for loading and unloading of Goods. Gammeron is a place ſubject to a very unwholſom Air being a hot Climat: the Heats continuing violent from May till September which is the reaſon that ſo many Strangers either die or dwindle away with a lingring Diſeaſe, which if they once get, it will hardly leave them, althô they ſhould change the climat. Beſides the Unwholſom Airs and Damps, there are many Strangers who deſtroy themſelvs with drinking of a Liquor much in uſe there called Palepunshen, being compounded of Arak, Sugar, and Raiſins, which i [...] ſo bewitching that they cannot refrain from drinking it, if they on [...] com to taſte it, being very delicious and tempting. It occaſio [...] a Giddineſs in the Head, Feavers, and Fluxes, and is ſo corroſ [...] that ſom who have drunk immoderatly of it and died, being op [...] ned, their Bowels were gnawed through and through. The ſcorc [...] ing Heat of that Clime alſo renders the Earth very dry and baren ſo that there is little or nothing that grows about it, ſave only Dates, which like beſt in ſandy and dry ground, but as for Garden [...] they are very rare to be ſeen except here and there a little one whic [...] with great trouble and continual Watering bring forth a few Po [...] herbs, and Roots. However they are very well ſupplyed with many ſorts of Refreſhments, as Cittrons Oranges, Pomegranats, Peaches, Apricocks, Grapes, Almonds, Apples, Pears and other Fruits as well as Plants, which grow upon the Iſland K [...]mish, about thre [...] Leagues from Gammeron; but their moſt uſual Diet is Fiſh. The Inh [...] bitants go almoſt quite naked by reaſon of the great Heat,Of the Inhabitants of Gammeron. and a [...] of a tawny yellowiſh Colour. The Women adorn their Arms, Noſes, and Ears with Rings and Plates of Gold, Silver, Copper, and Iron every one according to their ability.

About a Mile without Gammeron is a wonderfull kind of a Tre [...] alwaies which grows round,A ſtrange Tree without Gammeron. and the Branches declining to th [...] Ground riſe out again, as if it were from another Root, and ſo co [...] tinues for 250 Paces in circuit. This ſame Tree bears a ſort of Fru [...] round and yellow, but ſouriſh of Taſt, and has ſmall ſtones or Ke [...] [Page] [Page]

[...]

[...] Hillang [...]e Log [...]c.

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8 E [...]n [...].

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10 D' [...].

[Page] [Page] [...]eſs like a Fig. Hither repair many lazy People to ſhadow them [...]lvs under it, being thick and impenetrable for the Sun. Under [...]s Tree is a Pagod, or little Temple, wherein they ſay the Founder (being one of their Holies) lies at reſt: this Pagod is attended [...]waies by one of their Saints,Indian Pagod. and is continually viſited by the Indians who go thither to perform their devout Offices. The Indian who keeps it never ſhaves himſelf, but lets his Beard and the Hair of his Head grow ſo long as it will, which by his permiſſion I meſured and found it more than 6 Foot long, After I had don I gave him a ſmall piece of Money, valuing about Twopence, for which he ſhow'd himſelf very thankfull, and brought me in to ſee the Pagod and Tomb. Above was a Canopy of ſilk, and on each ſide were Lamps that were never ſuffered to go out. It was alſo painted round with [...]ans, wherewith they ſay that the Soul of the Departed Saint is [...]gely delighted. I deſired to know the ground of that their Opi [...]on and by what Token they were ſo perſwaded: His anſwer was, that it was not lawfull to impart ſuch ſacred Myſteries to Unbeleev [...]. In the Moneth of October the Heat is almoſt paſt, at what time reſort hither Merchants from all Places to negotiate their Affairs: The Perſians and Armenians come by way of Iſpahan, and the Arabians thrô Babylon, or Bagdet as it is now called, with multitudes of Caravans conſiſting of many Thouſands of Camels, Horſes, Mules and other Beaſts of Portage. Hither alſo repair both English and Hollanders bringing all ſorts of Commodities that are there Market [...]ble and may be vended. The English bring moſtly Wollen Manufactory, Pewter, Steel, &c. The Hollanders trade there moſtly in Spices and Indian Commodities. The Portugeez Tongue is here almoſt univerſally ſpoke, they having ſo long had that place, and yet above all other Europeans are obliged to pay Cuſtom: The Dutch Factors buy their Silks at the Price Courant and are alſo Cuſtom-free. But the English are not only Cuſtom-free here but alſo go Sharers with the King of Perſia in the Cuſtom that is received at Ormus, for the good Service they did in aſſiſting the King to take that Town [...]om the Portugueezes. The Hollanders notwithſtanding their being Cuſtom-free have nevertheleſs a hard Task to ſatisfy the Sabandar, or chief Officier, who always coms in with new Pretences and Inventions, which he knows they will rather comply with than ſuffer any obſtruction of Trade.

[Page] IUL. 1672.On the 18 of July I was viſited with a moſt violent burning Feave [...] which raged ſo cruelty that I grew deſperate, for I felt my ſelf eve [...] day weaker and weaker,The Author taken very ſick of a burning Feaver. wherefore ſuppoſing, notwithſtanding t [...] contrary opinion of many, that if I ſhould change the Air, tha [...] ſhould change the Air, that I ſhould recover, and therefore g [...] one to addreſs himſelf to the H [...]er Director de Haas and in my na [...] intercede that I might go for Batavia with the Ship N [...]ytſenbur [...] which lay ready for ſail. The Director was pleaſed to give order th [...] I ſhould go aboard which was matter of Joy for me, fearing if I ha [...] ſtay'd much longer that I ſhould have taken my leav of the Worl [...] Thus I was brought aboard, and met there with one Laurence [...] Akerſloot, who aſked me from whence I was? I told him, From Wa [...] mer; he told me that he was alſo born near Wormer, and for o [...] Countreys ſake gave me his Cabin, charging his Servant th [...] when I called for either Spaniſh, or other Wine that he ſhould dra [...] it for me, and ſerve me with what I had occaſion for; this kindne [...] I have great reaſon to remember and be thankfull for, being an u [...] ſpeakable Trouble to him, who lay ſo long in a place where he w [...] ill at eaſe, nor did he ever fail or decline to the very laſt. Mean wh [...] I lay very diſconſolate and ſo ill that the Doctor had given me ove [...] I was ſo ſwollen that the Cabin where I lay was too narrow for m [...] I therefore prayed the Doctor to let me blood, but he refuſed, ſaying that if I came to dy, it would be ſaid that he was the occaſion [...] it, however I ſtill perſiſted, till at laſt he was fain to condeſce [...] So ſoon as I was let blood I found my ſelf abundantly eaſed,He recovers. and fr [...] time to time grew better, althô 'twas very long before I was reſtore to my former ſtrength. The Carpenter of the Ship was alſo at t [...] ſame time ſtruck with a violent Feaver and dyed by the Way.

Finally we ſet ſail, and came on the firſt of Auguſt with a p [...] ſperous Gale in the Bay of Maſchate, Arrrival at Moſchate. Deſcription of the Town. which is a fair Haven lying [...] 23 degr. 36 min. Northerly latitude within, or upon the Bought [...] the Haven is a City, which towards the Countrey is environed wi [...] Hills and ſufficiently fortified with Walls and Bulwarks: on th [...] ſide next the Sea is alſo an Earthen Wall thrown up ſince it has b [...] under the Juriſdiction of the King of Perſia; for before it was b [...] an open Town; except for ſome ſmall Towers the Portugueezes ha [...] built, when it was in their Poſſeſſion, to check the ſavage Arabian [...] [Page] [Page]

1. d' Vimarckt.

2. d' Strant verſié met veel Coopmans waren.

3. Tw [...] Hollantſe Sche [...]pen.

[Page] [Page] who were wont to com by night in whole Troops, and plunder their Houſes: On the right hand as you enter the Haven is a Fort upon a ſteep Hill, which for its Fortification by Nature ſeems to be impraegnable except in caſe of hunger. The ſame Fort is alſo ſufficient to command and defend the whole Haven: it has alſo a privat way leading to the Haven under ground. This City according to it's greatneſs is populous enough, but not ſo populous as it was ſoon after Ormus was taken in by the King of Perſia, then ſerving as an Aſylum for the Portugueezes, Indians and Arabians.

In the Moneths of Auguſt and September it is here ſo incredible hot and ſcorching, that I am not able to expreſs the condition that Strangers are in, being as if they were in boiling Cauldrons, or in ſweeting Tubs, ſo that I have known many who not able to endure the Heat would jump into the Sea, and remain there till the Heat of the day be over. During the time of my abode there the Heer Padberg came as Envoyé from the Lord General, to eſtabliſh the Commerce and Trade of the Company on a better foot at Moſchate: but he had not made an end of that Affair when we left the Place.

On the Third of Auguſt we ſet ſail,AUG. and on the 22 got ſight of the faſt Land, and Cape Comorine, which is a fair Promontory on the Malabar Coaſt. We directed our courſe thence for Ceylon, and ſo for Batavia.

On the 28 we got the Straits of Sunda, where we met ſeveral Javaners that came aboard us, and bartered Fiſh, Coconuts, Pieſang, Ananaſſes, and other Fruits for Iron Hoops. The Day following we got the height of Toppers Angle,Arrival at Batavia. and on the 30 came into the Road of Batavia.

On the firſt of September, SEPT. I went aſhoar and ſo directly to the General and Council to return them my humble Thanks for their unſpeakable Favour and Goodneſs in redeeming me from the wofull Eſtate of Slavery, with promiſe of returning the Moneys diſburſed upon my return home, which in the year 1673 I faithfully performed.

On the 27 I went to liſt my ſelf in the Companies ſervice for Sail-maker for 18 gild per Moneth aboard the Ship called De Hollandtſche Tuyn.

On the 15 of October we received Order with 6 other Ships to cruſe upon the Engliſh and French Ships before Bantham. OCT. Mean while I longed [Page] ſo to ſee my Wife and Children that I had no more enjoyment my ſelf,OCT. 1672. ſo long as we made ſuch delay: wherefore I aſſumed [...] boldneſs to ſend 2 Letters, one to the Heer Spelman then Ordin [...] Council for the Indies, and another to the Heer Piete [...] van Hoorn, hu [...] bly begging that I might be diſmiſſed my preſent ſervice and be ſe [...] home; which they were graciouſly pleaſed to aſſent to, and gave ord [...] that I ſhould imbarque my ſelf aboard the Flyboat Nieuw poort [...] return to Batavia and ſo to go aboard the Ship Europa: wherewith ſet ſail on the 4 of February 1673,FEB. 1673. in Company with the Ship Te [...] veer, as Admiral; The Alphen, Vice-Admiral, and Pynaker, Rere Admiral, beſides the Ships Starmeer, and Papenburg. We directed our Courſe W. and by S. thrô the Straits of Sunda.

On the 5 we came before Bantham and found there the 7 Ships which were cruſing before that place for the Engliſh and French.

On the 6 we found our ſelvs without the Straits of Sunda, and ſe [...] our Courſe directly South-South-Weſt till we came in the height of [...] degr. then altered, and bore up W. S. W. till we came at 28 degr. a [...] then ſet our courſe directly South till we came at 32 degr. which is the height of C. de Bona Eſperanza where on the 15 of April we arrive [...] in the Bay,Arrival at Cabo de Bona Eſperance. and found thereſom Ships that were bound for the Indi [...] coming from Holland. Here we firſt heard the doleful news that the French had already made themſelvs Maſters of 3 of the 7 Province, that the 2 De Witts, the Penſionary and Ruart of Putten were ſadly maſſ [...] cred in the Hague; as alſo that his Royal Highneſs the Prince of Ora [...] was made Erf-Stadt-houder, or Lord Deputy Haereditary.

CHAP. XXXVII. Their Departure from the Cape of Good Hope. The Ship Europa taken by th [...] Engliſh. The Engliſh take the Iſland of St. Helena, and 2 Dutch Ships more Th [...] Author warns the reſt of the Ships. Three Dutch Ships ſcape a ſcouring. Arrival at Aſcenſion. Abundance of Tortoiſes on that Iſland. A Deſcriptio [...] of the ſaid Iſland. It's Ʋnfruitfullneſs and want of freſh water. A Debate [...]e [...] among the Engliſh to leav the Dutch upon the Iſland. Departure from Aſcenſion. Arrival at Kingſale in Ireland. Their Departure from thence, Arrival at Bri [...] and finally at Home.

WE tarried here till the 17 of May, on which day we received an Order from the Governour to depart with the Ship Europ [...] [Page] for the Iſland St. Helena, MAY. 1673. which Iſland he had taken from the English about 14 Weeks before. The reſt of the Ships were to follow us in 7 or 8 days time, and ſo to ſail together for Holland.

Thus having a brisk Gale of wind we hoiſed ſail, and had aboard us one Captain Br [...]denbach who was to be Governour of St. Helena, We ſet our courſe North-Weſt and on the 21 of May being Whitſuntide came before Saint Helena, but coming juſt in at the Bay we found we had got a wrong Sow by the Tail, finding inſtead of our own, 7 great English Men of War, with a Fireſhip and 3 Merchant Men. The Engliſh finding us within Shot did ſo welcom us with their upper and lower Tires, that we were preſently quit of Hopes, Ship and Goods. They gave us Nutmegs enough, but thoſe were ſo cruel hard that we could not grate (much leſs digeſt) them with our wills: In ſhort they ſhot ſo hotly upon us that we had ſeveral Men on a ſudden killed and many wounded. We had aboard us about 50 Men and had not above 5 or 6 Guns that we could uſe. Being thus in a great Strait and not knowing what to do having no leiſure to conſult, it was reſolved that we ſhould board the Aſsiſtance an English Friggat of 48 Guns, which followed us with the Fireſhip. Hereupon our Captain gave order that the Hatches ſhould be ſhut and nailed up, that none might creep out of the way,The Ship Europa taken by the Engliſh and plundered. but unanimouſly to fall upon our Enterpriſe: yet when all was don we came ſhort of Ammunition, and were at laſt fain to ſurrender our ſelvs, Ship and Goods to the Mercy of the English, who never left firing upon us with 12 and 18 Pounders.

The English were no ſooner com aboard but they fell a plundering us, ſearching ſo narrowly that I knew no longer how to conceal the Jewels which my Patroneſs Altine had given me, being Ten Bruto, or rough Diamonds, for I had ſold one at Batavia, which was the meaneſt, for about 1000 gl. And now that good Treaſure, which I had ſo long hid, and ſecured from Theeviſh hands, lay at Stake for an Offering to impious Mars, and finding that they began to make a new Search, I called an Englishman aſide, and told him that I had ſo many rough Diamonds, which if he would pleaſe to take and hide for me, I would give him 5, upon further Condition that he would be faithfull to me and redeliver me the other back again when we arrived in England: but abov all to keep the matter ſecret. He [Page] promiſed me with many Proteſtations that he would. In the mea [...] while the English continued plundering and breaking up the Cheſts, throwing the rich Silks and Cottons ſo on Heaps, that we coul [...] hardly yet a paſſage through. My Treſurer was a while very faithfull and ſtill, but coming accidentally to get drunk, revealed our Secrets to another of his Meſs-Mates, hoping that it would go no further; but it was not long before it came to the Captains Ear who without the leſt warning came and commanded the Cheſt to be broken up, where he found the Stones: and gave the Aſs half a Hundred Blows on the Ribbs for his pains: and ſo was I bereaved of the laſt and beſt Treſure I had. The only thing they left me was my Papers and Journal, which was not without much Intreaty: a poor Abſtract for ſo many years Miſery, having incluſivly no more to thank (nay much leſs) the Chriſtians than the Mahometans and Pagans, ſave for my Slavery; for which I may not blame any in particular, it being a general Rule among them to convert ſuch as they hold for Heteredox to Slaves.

Thus being newly delivered out of one miſery I was immediatly involved in another; and ſo far might this deſpair have wrought wit [...] me, that had it not bin the Goodneſs of GOD to indue me with [...] more laudable and a more pious Principle, I could have willingly thrown my ſelf praecipitantly out of the World; being weary of Life, and as unwilling to embrace the greateſt Solace that can be expected, yea, or enjoyed in this weariſom Pilgrimage to the Grave, which puts an end to all corporal Afflictions, and the Haven whither we are all a failing, howſoever we be provided for that Spiritual Mart. Nor do I doubt but that thoſe who ſhall have the Patience to read theſe Memorials, will imagine my Miſery to have bin great. B [...] I farther praeſume that they in the moſt earneſt contemplation of thi [...] Schaeme of anxiferous and calamitous Events that from time to time have befallen me, will never be ſuch real Compatients as to ſurve the amaritude of my Sufferings by the Scale of their Thoughts and Cenſures. Yet welcom, moſt welcom, be the Decrees of the moſt glorious LORD of Life; and HE out of his immenſe Bounty grant me patience to ſuffer what he is pleaſed to inflict upon me, how ſevere ſo ever it be.

Eight days before our Arrival there had the English taken in the Iſland, being forced to put in there for want of Water: not knowing [Page] any thing to the contrary,JUN. 1673. but that it was ſtill in poſſeſſion of their own Nation, and were ſent out to convoy their Eaſt-India Ships howeward: but coming into the Bay were not a little ſurpriſed, that they were ſaluted with Balls in ſtead of looſe Powder. However the English were reſolved to com aſhoar ſom way or other, for they were deſtitute of Water, all the 7 Ships of War and the Merchant-men with the Fire Ship hardly able to make out 15 Hogſheads of Water, and were beſides that at a great loſs for Refreſhments, having been long off at Sea to and again. The Admiral therefore gave command to attempt an entrance at the South ſide of the Iſland, where it was ſo narrow that they could not go abov 4 in a rank, inſomuch that if the Hollanders could have miſſed ſo many men out of the Fort, might have knockt them all down with Stones, with 50 or 60 Men, ſo that the English invaded the Iſland unmoleſted. The Governour ſeeing that they were ſurpriſed, and he unable to defend himſelf againſt ſo great a Power, ſurrendred upon Articles and Compoſition. This was the Relation of the English.

On the 4 of June the English got two Ships more of the 5 that followed us with another coming from Ceylon, who, not knowing any thing to the contrary but that the Hollanders were ſtill Maſters of the Iſland, came ſailing without any dread directly thither from the Cape. For the English had planted the Princes Flag aloft, and a Red Flag on the High way, which was a privat Token that the Hollanders had among themſelves. When I remarked what the meaning of all this was, and how eaſily our Ships would be deceived, I went to the Shore, where I eſpied the Ships not abov half a Dutch league diſtant, and immediatly pulled of my Shirt and ſet it upon a Stick, that at leſt they might begin, if they ſhould have the Fortune to ſee it, to conſider well with themſelvs, what ſuch might import; but it ſeemed that they took no notice of it, or elſe did not ſee it, otherwiſe it had bin time enough for them to have ſcap'd the Scouring. 'Twas not long before I was ſpied by two English Sentinels, who came in all haſt, and beat me after a moſt lamentable manner: which when they had don brought me before the Governour, who asked me, what I meant by that Token, I told him with great liberty, That I thought it my duty to warn my Nation from the Peril which they were ready to run in, and that I ſuppoſed that if, I had bin an Engliſhman and had [Page]known them under the like Circumſtances I ſhould have don no more than what I was bound to do. To which the Governour ſmiling replied; That I did honeſtly and deſerved to be commended, but withall charged me not to tranſgreſs any more, and ſo let me go without any further Trouble. Whence we may learn what difference there is, between drinking at the Fountain, and drinking at the Current.

Mean while the Ships came on undauntedly; and were hardly ſailed within the Bay, but deſcryed a Lyon in an Aſſes Skin, in ſtead of an Aſs in a Lions Skin, and diſcerned a Wolfs Body with a Sheeps Voice, the Colours they ſaw ſpoke good Dutch, but the Ships danced an Engliſh Jig, wherefore they thought it beſt to tack about and make all the ſail they could: which the Engliſh perceiving, out after them all in a Body, and took the Admiral and Vice-Admiral, but the Rere-Admiral and the other 2 made their Eſcape, and could not be overtaken. The Admiral behaved himſelf with good courage, and had probably not bin taken if his Mizzin Peek had not bin brought by the board. The Ship that engaged and took him was the Weſt-Freezlandt, being formerly a Dutch Ship and taken by the Engliſh in the year .1665, and was now mounted with 54 Guns. Our Admiral would fain have boarded her but could not, for the Engliſh poured inceſſantly upon them with ſmall ſhot, inſomuch that he was fain to yield, the Commander himſelf being wounded in the Leg.

The next day we were ordered to go aboard directing our Courſe for Aſcenſion Iſland, which ſerv the Engliſh for a Rendezvous, where we arrived on the 19 of Iune. Here the Men went to take Tortoiſes, which are there in very great abundance, ſom of 200 and ſom 300lb. weight. Theſe Creatures are Amphibious, that is to ſay, living as well by water as by land; but by night com upon the Strand where they lay their Eggs, which are by the heat of the Sun engendred in the ſand.

The Iſland Aſcenſion lies in 8 degr. and 30 min. Southerly Latitude about 40 Leagues from Saint Helena. It is altogether rocky and produces nothing of growth, having in it high Hills, yet not ſo high as thoſe in Saint Helena. The whole Iſland is white with the Dung of Mews, Cormorants, and a ſort of Wild-geeſe that com thither to build and breed, as alſo to prey upon the dead Fiſh which lies in heaps upon the ſhore, and in the ſmall Inlets, and Creeks.

[Page]There is no freſh Water upon the Iſland, which if there had we had bin very unhappy, for the Engliſh had intended to leav us there with a little Proviſion, till our own Ships ſhould come to fetch us off: but ſeeing there was none, they were ſo kind as to carry us for England. The reaſon of their deſign to do ſo, was becauſe they had very many ſick aboard, and grew every day weaker and weaker by the Death of their Men: fearing therefore that we ſhould riſe and make our ſelvs Maſters of the Ship when we found an Opportunity, being about 300 Dutch in all.

On the 23 of June we left Aſcenſion Iſland, and ſet our Courſe N.W. till we came under the Aequinoctial, and then North till we came in 13 degr. which is the height of the Barbados, then ſteered N. and by E. till we came in 43 degr. where we altered our Courſe N. E. till we found that we were in 48 degr. then changed our Point N. E. and by E. till we came at 51 degr. 11 min. then ſteered Eaſt till we had 51 degr. 20 min. and the next day got ſight of Ireland, and the day following arrived ſafe at Baltamore, which is a very fair Haven and good Anchor-ground, as alſo a ſafe Harbor for Shipping againſt all Winds. Being arrived here the Captains gave us liberty to go where we liked, ſo that ſom of our Men went over Land for Kingſale.

On the 26 we had news of the Engagement between the Engliſh and Dutch. The day following I ſet forward with ſom of our Company afoot over land, paſſing through many fair Towns, as Balthamore, Top, Roſs and others.

On the 28 we came at the Caſtle Til Britton, where we ſtay'd all night, and the next morning betimes ſet forward on our Journey, and about noon came to Kingſale, being one of the moſt commodious Havens and ſtrongeſt Place that I had ſeen in all Ireland. The Haven is ſufficient to contain a conſiderable number of Shipping, as at our being there were 80 or 100 ſail laying at Anchor, all Ships of a great Burthen. The City it's ſelf is alſo ſtrongly Wall'd and has an impraegnable Fort. We tarried here 10 days, and ſet forward again for Cork, where we happily found a Ship ready to ſail for Briſtol. Cork is a fair City and the Metropolitan of the Province of that name, being alſo a Biſhops Seat. The Maſter received us aboard, and in the Afternoon ſet ſail, and that night came to Anchor before Cow, which lies about 5 Leagues from Cork.

[Page] AUG. 1673.On the 10 betimes in the Morning we weighed, and had a brav [...] Gale of Wind. About Noon we deſcried a ſmall Veſſel which w [...] praeſumed was a Dutch Privateer, but ours being a good ſailer outſtrip [...] her far. The next day we found ourſelvs in St. Georges Channel, and about the Evening came before Briſtol. On the 12 I went aſhoar and purſued my Journey afoot to London, where on the 15 I arrived, and ſtayed 3 Days, viewing to my great aſtoniſhment the City all rebuilt after a magnificent manner, being not long before in Rubbiſh and Aſhes by a dreadfull Fire, that happened in the year 1666, but now appearing with a far greater luſtre than before. From London I travailed to Harwich paſſing thrô many fair Villages and a moſt delightfull Countrey. And from hence imbarqued for Holland, where after many Miſeries and Perils, by the Goodneſs of Almighty GOD, I embraced my Wife and Children on the 7 of October, in the year 1673.

Anchora de prora jacitur, ſtat littore puppis.

THE END.

The Copy of a NARRATIV, Written from aboard the Ship EAGLE, belonging to his Imperial Majeſty the Czar of Moſcovia, riding at Anchor before ASTRACHAN upon the River Wolga, bearing date September, XXIV, M DC LXIX, O. S.

[Page]

ON the 28 of May we left Moſcou and with a ſmall Boat fell down the River Occa, till we came at Dedenof, being the Wharf where the Ship and Yacht were built which we found ready for a Launch.

ON the 6 of Iune we ſet ſail with our Ship, and Yacht coming the day following before Niſen Novogorod, where the River Occa incorporates with the Wolga. In the mean while we had run our ſelvs a ground three or 4 Times, but that was more thrô the unſkilfullneſs of the Pilot than the Badneſs of the River, which is deep and navigable: as alſo on each ſide inhabited and grown with Woods. The name of the Gentleman who reſided at Niſen as Waywood, or Governour, was Maxim Ivanowitz Nachokkin, who made us very welcom and according to their cuſtom ſent us ſeveral Diſhes of Meat, alſo during the time we lay there at Anchor came ſeveral times aboard us; and at our departure convoy'd us down ſom part of the River, and ſupplied the Officers with Neceſſaries and Refreſhments.

HAVING the advantage both of Wind and ſtream we arrived the Firſt of July, before the mouth of the River Caſanka, which is about a mile from Caſan. Here we broke our Cables, and with much ado made faſt to the ſhore with a ſingle Rope: We had alſo loſt our Bowſpriet among the Trees in falling down the Occa. The Waywods name of Caſan was Iurien Petrovitz Trobieskay, a liberal Gentleman and not at all incomitable; he treated us ſeveral Times at his own Houſe, and upon our Departure gave us ſom Proviſion aboard us. After 15 days aboad here we looſed and paſſed by ſeveral fair Towns, as Camuſchinka, Doſoroſka and others too long to relate. This ſaid Camuſchinka is lately built by Order of the Czaar, being fortified Diamond wiſe by Collonel Thomas Bailey, an English Gentleman: It's end is to prevent the Irruption of the Coſacs, the River Camuſchinka running into the Don.

ON the 13 of Auguſt we got ſight of Aſtrachan, and on the 14 came before the Town where we gave the Salvo with all our Cannon and 60 Muſquets, and in the Evening dropped Anchor in the Road, near the Town. We had before got Intelligence how that the Coſacs had appeared upon the Wolga, but coming to Aſtrachan were further informed how that the Ruſſes were gon out againſt them, in which Expedition were 50 Stroegs and about 3000 Men, under the Command of Knees Simeun Ivanowitz Geboof, who was the third Voyce, or ſuffrage of [Page] Aſtrachan. It is now 3 years ſince the firſt riſing of the Coſacks in which time they have depopulated many fair Towns upon the Caſpian Sea, and about a year agon had taken in Iaick, a City belonging to the Czar, where they had beſides many Inſolencies committed killed and diſpatched abov 8000 Men by cruel and unheard- of Torments, amongſt whom was one Dutch Officier, of known fame for his good Conduct.

IN Perſia they had taken in and demoliſhed 3 Citys, and moſt barbarouſly maſſacred the Inhabitants, and growing both in number and power were becom very formidable, both to the King of Perſia and the Great Duke. They were headed by one Stenko (or Stephen) Radzin, a diſcontented Perſon and one of great Power, as to his proper Abilities, bearing a Soveraign Aw among them. About 14 days before our Arrival at Aſtrachan, he had taken a coſtly Perſian Boes, valued at ſeveral Tuns of Gold, in which were Horſes and ſeveral other Preſents ſent from the King of Perſia to the Great Duke of Moſcovy.

ON the 17 as the Waywod of Aſtrachan was aboard our Ship came an Expreſs, bringing news that Radzin and the Coſacs had ſubmitted themſelvs to the Great Duke, upon which the Waywod gave order that we ſhould fire our Guns, which we did. The ſaid Letters further mentioned how that they had delivered the Horſes belonging to the Great Duke to the Ruſſian General.

ON the 19 came 3 Coſacs into Aſtrachan in very coſtly Attire and with great pomp, whereof the youngeſt was the Orator. The Waywood after a long Treaty aſſured them of being eſtabliſhed in the Great Dukes Favour. But it ſeemed that they had ſom diſguſt, becauſe they were not formally introduced, as is cuſtomary with all Ambaſſadors and Legates. The Waywod excuſed it, ſaying ‘That he himſelf was a Bojar, and reſided there in quality of Waywod, yet at his firſt taking that Dignity upon him was not introducted by his Predeceſſor, nor the Nobility of Aſtrachan, which was Argument and Token that he was not to do the like to others.’ When the Conference was over, the Waywod invited them to his Houſe and gave them a ſplendid Treat.

ON the 21 early in the Morning came the Ruſſian Fleet before the Town conſiſting of 53 Stroegs, or Rowing-Barks: upon each Stroeg was only one Piece of Ordnance, but thoſe in the Rere had 2, to wit, one before and another aba [...]t Aboard each were ſo many Strelitzers (which are the Soldiery) that they could not mov if there had bin occaſion, to do any execution. The ſaid Fleet by order of the Waywod came to Anchor on the other ſide of the River. About 3 in the Afternoon came the Coſacs, conſiſting in 23 Sail and a conſiderable number of Men. Upon their Arrival we had an order from the Waywod to receiv 200 Strelitzers aboard under our Standard, who placed themſelvs in order round about the Ship. The Ruſſian Army then looſed and came before the City, giving the Salvo with all their great Guns at once, with abov 3000 Muſquets: which the Coſacs anſwered with their Cannons and Muſquets; upon which they in the City put out a white Flag, which was a Token for us to Fire, which we did with all our great Guns, and about 200 Muſquets. Mean while the Maſter of our Ship fell over board, but was taken up again, thô with much ado, for the weather was a little tempeſtuous. Soon after [Page] the Ruſſians gave fire a ſecond time and came cloſe up to our Ship; upon which we gave fire for the laſt time with 13 Guns and 200 Muſquets. The Coſacs rowed off, and came to Anchor where the Ruſſian Fleet rode at firſt.

ON the 22 in the Morning betimes, the Coſacs rowed up the River, and were on a ſudden out of ſight: and that morning iſſued a Proclamation that none ſhould have any Commerce or Converſe with them. On the 23 came Radzin himſelf in Perſon into Aſtrachan and was ſaluted by all the Gentry: the Waywod was alſo council'd to bring the Ammunition and Standard of the Rebells into the City, which he reſolv'd upon. Mean while came news to the Waywod that Radzin was drunk, whereupon he gave order that they ſhould endeavor by good and gentle words to get him out of Town: he being very unruly when overtaken with Liquor, in which mood he had deſtroyed many Men, both of his own Rout and others. But the Inſolencies he had committed during this Uproar cannot be recounted, althô 'tis ſaid that beſides the many Thouſands of the Great Dukes Subjects he had cauſed to be maſſacred, whereof himſelf boaſted to have diſpatched 8000 at one time, he had from time to time maſſacred above 40000 Perſians.

The Copy of a NARRATIV, Sent from Capt. D. Butler, dated at ISPAHAN, March 6th. 1671.

[Page]

Worthy Sir,

AFTER a taedious delay we finally received an Order from the Great Duke to imbark our ſelvs with the Ships Company, and com to Moſcou. Which being ſhown us I inſiſted continually that according to the ſaid Order I might go up, but it was thought good that the Ship ſhould be firſt put in Equippage, and ſupplied with Ammunition, and in caſe of neceſſity be uſed againſt the Coſacks, who under the Conduct of one Stenko Radzin as chief, had already depopulated many fair Countreys upon the Caſpian Sea, and then reconciled to the Great Duke. But in the Moneth of March came news how that the Coſacs were again revolted, upon which Colonel Levonti Bogdonof was diſpatched by the Great Duke with a Band of 800 Men, to wit, 400 Ruſſian Cavalrie and 400 Nagaian Tartars, to march to Zarit a, a City lying about 80 Dutch Miles above Aſtrachan; that being a City which abutts upon the Frontiers of the Coſacks, and commands the paſſage of the River Don, or Tanais; which River nevertheleſs doth not fall into the Wolga, as ſom have bin of opinion, and as moſt Maps do make it, for the Coſacks do come almoſt a days Journey with their Boats from the Don to the Wolga, which they ballance with pieces of Timber, the better to endure the violence of the ſtream, for they are but of one entire piece, or Trunks of Trees hollowed out. Theſe people have the Ruſſian Speech and the ſame Religion. They have alſo their Aſyla, or Places of Refuge, granted them by the Great Duke, whither they have recourſe when they have perpetrated any villanous Fact, or Enormity.

ABOUT the 27, or 28 of April came a Narrativ by a Courier from the aboveſaid Bogdanof, importing how that the Coſacks had taken in Tzaritza, and that about 1200 Moſcovians were kill'd and drown'd: but to give a full account of the Stratagems they had uſed to gain the Town, would make me more prolix and taedious than my preſent deſign is to be. Theſe 1200 Strelitzers or Soldiers, were a part of thoſe that were ſent from Moſcou to enforce the reſpectiv Garriſons upon the Wolga, but eſpecially this City, in which the Great Duke repoſed great Truſt, being able to check (as I have ſaid before) the main Paſſage of the Rebels, in their March for the South-Eaſt Countrey.

THE ſame day came news how that the Field-Tartars were at diſcord and factious among themſelvs, and being drawn into 2 Head-parties uſed all manner of hoſtile [Page] Acts againſt each other, ſo that Bogdanof thought good to draw up and march forward to Chornojar, a City about 50 Dutch Miles from Aſtrachan. He had alſo ſent down a Captiv Coſac to Aſtrachan who was put upon the Rack, and in ſuch manner tormented that all had compaſſion of him.

MEANWHILE all things are made ready at Aſtrachan, and the Shipping deſign'd for ſervice in this Expedition put in equippage. The Waywood alſo ſends a Perſon of Quality with a Body of Soldiery to joyn with thoſe under Boogdanof: theſe were then to be commanded by a Pole, whoſe name was Ivan Ruſſinſki and a Proſelyte in the Ruſſian Church, and next to him one James Wondrong, a Scotch Gentleman, born in Edenburg, aged about 33 years, and univerſally well ſpoken of, for his Piety and faithfull deportment. The Dutch Officers, were Paul Dolf Captain and Engineer, with his Son in Law Lewis Fabritius, beſides Captain Robert Hind an Engliſhman, Nicholas Schaak my Lieutenant was alſo made Captain. There were alſo 2 Dutch Lieutenants ſent upon this affair who were baptized into the Ruſsian Church. As alſo 2 or 3 Enſigns. The reſt of the Officers were moſtly Poles and Ruſſes.

UPON the 25 of May being Munday in Whitſun-week the Captains departed from Aſtrachan in about 40 Stroegs, all under the command of Knees Simeun Ivanowitz Elboof. Each Stroeg had one Piece of Canon and all neceſſary Ammunition, the whole number of the Men that were aboard this Fleet (as appeared by the Muſter-roll) did not exceed 2600 Men, whereof 2100 were of the Strelitzers of Aſtrachan who have ſome manner of Diſtinction among themſelvs.

THE ſame day the Coſac who had bin ſo cruelly tortured was hanged up in ſight of the whole Army. In the mean time the Inhabitants of Aſtrachan began to murmur and breath Rebellion, inciting one another againſt the Governour and Magiſtracy, which ſeemed to be a very bad Omen of ſome ill Conſequence, for from that time forward they continued bolder and bolder till at length it burſt out into palpable Rebellion. About this time arrived a Dutch Chirurgeon at Aſtrachan, who had bin in the Retinue of the Moſcovian Ambaſſador at Iſpahan, of whom I bought ſom Silk ſtuffs and 480 Hides of Turky leather, for which I immediately tendered the Money.

ABOUT the beginning (I think the 4th day) of June came a Gentleman from Chornojar with very unwelcom News. His Meſſage was that the ſame day that Knees Simeun Ivanowitz with the Ruſsian Army was arrived before that City, the Coſacks appearing far more numerous and ſtrong, thoſe in the City revolted, declared themſelvs Coſacks, and ſurrendred up the Town to Radzin and the Rebells. He added further, That all the loyal Officers who indeavored to diſſwade them there from, were moſt inhumanly maſſacred. This ſad Expreſs, altho ſmothered as much as was poſſible by the Waywod and Council of Aſtrachan, was nevertheleſs come to the knowledge of the Townsmen, who were very impatient to bear the yoke of Obedience any longer. Upon this news I was ſent for by the Waywood, who aſked me if my Men were able to manage the Cannon, and gave order that in the firſt place all the Cannon ſhould be viſited that lay upon the Walls, and to repair thoſe that were defectiv which was forthwith done.

[Page]ON Thurſday the 5th of June, we left the Ship, and brought all the Goods in the Fort, by order of the Governor, our Gunner alſo loaded a great part of the O [...] dnance. Still continued whiſpering and murmuring againſt the Governour, ſo th [...] neither He, nor the Council, durſt appear without doors for fear of an Uproar. T [...] Chirurgeon of whom I have already made mention, having bin converſant abo [...] 14 years with the Ruſſes, and not unacquainted with their tumultuous ſpirits, to [...] me, he could eaſily foreſee that the City would be betray'd ere long, if the Commo [...] ſort did not ſee better marks and clearer evidence of Security; and without dou [...] we that were Strangers and in ſervice of the Great Duke muſt expect ſom wof [...] Cataſtroph: and therefore ſince our Pay was retracted, and our ſervice only aboa [...] the Ship, and not in the Land Army, it was more adviſable to betake our ſelves ov [...] the Caſpian Sea to the Perſian Coaſt. I had already ordered our Men to buy up [...] Moneths Proviſion of Neceſſaries, fearing a Siege.

UPON this Motion of the Chirurgeon I ſummoned up my Officers and to [...] Council together with them, what was beſt to be don in this caſe: they unanimou [...] reſolved that it was more ſecure to betake our ſelves to flight, ſince we had no Pay, and therefore not under any obligation to ſerve the Duke by Sea, much leſs by Land. They were willing to leave all they had at Aſtrachan except only their cloaths, b [...] cauſe it would be an incumbrance: yet becauſe I had many coſtly Cloaths and other Goods, they reſolved to take as much as they could with them, and pack'd all [...] in a great Portmantle and a Trunk which I had, beſides two little Cheſts, which aſſented to. Every one took as much Proviſion of Bread in his own Portmantle [...] he thought might ſerve him; and it was reſolved that we ſhould leave none behind ſave only 2 Seamen, who had each a Wife and a young Child. On Friday in the Afternoon my beſt Things were brought aboard, it being intended that we ſho [...] depart that night, which the two Seamens Wives coming to perceive would by a means go with us. But I weighing well the Enterprize with my ſelf, and conſidering the danger of adventuring with 22 Perſons more, in a Shallop of 26 Foot long I thought it not good to eſſay the matter. I had with me one Chriſtian Brand [...] Gunners Mate, with whom I reſolved to ſtay and ſee what the event would be [...] Aſtrachan, and (if our fate was ſuch) to die on the Bed of Honour, rather th [...] to flee we knew not whither. This I intimated to the Maſter and the Doctor who alſo were content to venture their Lot. Immediatly I ſent a Seaman to the Maſte [...] Mate aboard the Shallop to acquaint them with the Alteration of my Reſolution; but that night the Gates were ſhut ſooner than the cuſtomary hour; ſo that he could not get ſpeech to them. This put me into ſome doubt, fearing that they might p [...] off without me: but the Maſter and two Seamen perſwaded me to the contrary ſaying they would never have the boldneſs to go without me which for that time ma [...] me reſt contented. That Evening I went the Rounds with the Vice-roy upon the Walls of the Caſtle, which was laid ore with Heaps of Stones, to uſe in caſe of Storm.

ON the ſeventh of June, being Saturday early in the morning, I ſent a Seaman to the Ship again with ſom privat Inſtructions; but he making ſom delay, and I not have the patience to wait any longer went my ſelf, with the Chirurgeon, and found that [Page] they were gone off with the Shallop. The Maſter and the reſt were (or ſeemed to be) ſurprized at the matter, as not beleeving they would have had the boldneſs [...] go without further order. 'Tis true it ſeemed not ſo ſtrange to me being only that I expected from them. However we concluded it the ſafeſt way for our own ſecurity to acquaint the Waywod with the matter, before he ſhould come to hear [...]t from others, and with one to let him know the reaſon. But he who was my Interpreter was alſo fled with them, ſo that I was fain to make uſe of the Chirurgeon before mentioned. Having acquainted the Governour with what had paſſed, he [...]ow'd himſelf outwardly not to be much concerned, eſpecially when I told him that they were not gone over to the Coſacks.

THE ſame day came a Courier with an Expreſs from Moſcou, being the ſame Gentleman who had brought the news how that the Ruſſes about Zaritſa were revolted. This Gentleman's name was Danile Tourlekojof, and had been formerly with me a [...]oard our Ship upon the Wolga, between Caſan and Aſtrachan, and intimated me with privacy how that the Revolting Party had uſed the Lievtenant General and other Ruſſian Officers after a moſt barbarous manner, and that Aſtrachan it ſelf, as well as all the Countrey round about, was already betray'd: but further ſaid he not.

THE day following, being the 9th of June, I received an order from the Governour [...] viſit the Fortifications of the City. The like orders had an English Colonel, [...]ho was come hither from Terki which City was was alſo fortified anew by the ſaid Coll, being ſituated in the Land of the Circas-Tartars, about 2 Leagues from the Caſpian Sea: The old City, or Caſtle, as Adam Olearius writes, was firſt built and fortified by one Cornelius Claaſz, a Hollander. This Gentleman had the charge of one Quarter committed to him, and my ſelf the other, to repair it ſo, that the Men might be ſecure. Soon after came the Waywod himſelf in perſon and deſired our Advice what to do for Security of the Town. The English Gentlemans advice was to make ſome Outworks without the Walls: but I adviſed him to make Proclamation that all ſuch as had any way revolted or engaged themſelvs to the Coſac Party ſhould be pardoned, and declared free Remmiſſionaries, in caſe they would come and ſubmit themſelvs to the Governour, and that the Townsmen ſhould have ſome money diſtributed among them, and the moſt popular to be drawn in by promiſe of Advancement and the like; ſo that thoſe being leading Men might appeaſe the reſt: However my advice in that was rejected.

MEAN while a narrow Watch was held, and the Soldiery lay all night upon the Walls, and 2 Men at every Port-hole, to be ready in caſe of a ſilent Attacque.

THE Perſians, Calmuc-and Circas-Tartars, under conduct of a Perſian Gentleman, who was there upon his way to the Court at Moſcou, upon an Ambaſſage from the King of Perſia, did alſo their utmoſt indeavors to aſſiſt us, and paſſed away the night with Muſic, Dancing and other Mirth. The Poſt aſſigned them was the Poet Nietze Baſna, being the Bulwark where they uſually torture their Malefactors.

ON Sunday, being the 15th. of June I was invited to dinner with the Waywod. When the Table was done he gave me a Preſent, to wit, a yellow Silk Coat, 2 [Page] pair of Breeches and 2 ſhirts, that being the Cuſtom of the Ruſſians upon extra [...] dinary Occaſions [forſooth] He alſo made me many fair promiſes, beſides the fr [...] dom of his Houſe and Table for my Good ſervice, having about 100 Men un [...] my Conduct: nor did I appear too remiſs in my duty, for I went the Rounds eve [...] night ofter than my Order and Injunction was.

THE Thurſday following, being the 19th. we had Intelligence how that the Coſ [...] Forces were greatly increaſed and that they were a Marching towards us; which ne [...] continued and was confirmed by a continual recourſe of Land-Tartars and Fiſhe [...] into Aſtrachan. There was alſo a falſe rumor ſpread about the Town, as if o [...] Men that were fled had loaden the Cannon that lay upon the Walls with looſe Po [...] der, others that it was with Balls and no Powder, and a third, that it was firſt w [...] Balls and then with Powder, all which coming to the Governours Ear he ſent h [...] me, but coming to worm the Guns in his preſence found it was but a falſe and malicious report raiſed by ſome prejudiced Perſons to caſt an odium upon them and [...] turn me out of Favour.

ON Friday the 20th. of June, the Waywod made me Lieutenant Coll. in place of James Wondram, which by proviſion I took upon me, but being not well pleaſed with my Charge, the Coll. who obſerved it, ſeem'd a little diſcontented, and ſaid in preſence of the Governour. That it was not now a fit time to ſolicit in for ſ [...]d things, whence I collected that be thought that I had made it my buſineſs to be adva [...] ced, but was ſoon after better informed, when he would himſelf have confirm [...] me in the Regiment and I with great earneſtneſs declined it. The Poſt which wa [...] aſſigned me was in the ſame Quarter with the Coll. on the Tartarian ſide, whe [...] the Fort was the weakeſt.

ON Sunday, June 22 came the Coſacks within ſight of Aſtrachan, and ſent Coſac Trumpetter with a Ruſſian Prieſt to demand the Town. The ſaid Coſac had alſo a Letter for me in Dutch, wherein I was adviſed not to fight with my Men, if I hoped for Quarter, or Mercy at their hands. The ſaid Letter was taken from me by the Waywod, before I had read it quite out, and torn in Pieces. The Trumpetter and Prieſt had Gaggs put in their Mouths, that they ſhould cauſe no commotion or alteration among the Commons; and were ſoon after beheaded.

ON Munday came the Coſac-Army with about 300 Keels, great and ſmal cloſe to the City, puting in at a River near the Vineyards that ly about half a Leag [...] from the Walls of the Town. Upon this we ſet the Tartarian Tents on fire. Meanwhile I ſtood upon the top of the Governours houſe, with the Governour himſelf, and caſually eſpied ſeveral Boats in the River before the Town: I therefore adviſed the Governour not to let them tarry there for althô they were but Fiſhers Boats yet they might give intelligence to the Enemy; wherefore he gave order immediatly to ſink them, which was forthwith put in execution. That afternoon the Perſian and Circas-Tartars had taken 4 Coſacks, who were put to the Rack and after confeſſion, two were hanged up, and other two beheaded in preſence of the Governour.

THE day following the Collonel would have confirmed me in the Office I the [...] ſupplied, to wit, as Lieutenant Colonel which I nevertheleſs declined as before. This ſame day about noon the Great Dukes Factor preſented us with a Pipe of ſtrong [Page] Beer, and a Quantity of Tobacco, which we diſtributed among the Soldiers to give 'em Courage and keep them content. In the forepart of the night I went with the Chirurgeon to do the Rounds, which don I lay me down to ſleep a little in my Tent but was quickly awaked with the Alarm, which gave notice how that the Coſacks approached to begin their firſt ſtorm, which happened about 3 a clock at the Woſnaſinſke Gate, where our Ship-maſter and the Waywods Brother had the watch. The firſt I eſpied was a ſquare Body of the Enemy who approached very near, upon which I gave fire with our 12 Pounders, and was ſeconded by thoſe of the next Poſt, who ſhot very faſt. Interim came the Engliſh Colonel Baily to me in great haſt with moſt of the Dutch and German Officers, bringing news how that the City was already betray'd. The Colonel was himſelf wounded on the cheek with a Pike, as alſo in two or three places on his Leg, for being all in Armour they could not hurt him elſewhere: and this he ſaid was done by our own Soldiery. He told me further that he had done his utmoſt indeavour to pacify them and if it were poſſible to caſt an odium upon the Coſacks, as Rebells; but was fain to ſmother all his reaſon ſore againſt his will and at laſt glad to come off with his Life. After a ſmall conference together I adviſed the Colonel to go again to his Poſt, and ſee if the perſwaſion of other Officers had wrought any thing upon the Strelitzers: but the next news I heard was that the Strelitzers had maſſacred all the Officers, which grieved me moſt highly, becauſe that they had adventured their perſons by my advice. Neither did this bloody Action hold up with that, for it came forward ſo far that Captain Wederos who had the next Poſt to me was taken by his own ſervant, pinion'd faſt and afterward in moſt cruel manner murthered by his Soldiers. The Chirurgeon of whom I have already made mention ſeeing this, would have thrown himſelf off the wall to avoid the danger of thoſe bloody Traitors; but I did all I could to with-hold him, and at laſt called to mind a certain Port-hole juſt under the Tower which might ſerve us for an Exitus out of all thoſe imminent dangers, in which we had certainly ſuffered if we had not taken care betimes. Thrô this we took our way and I charged the Chirurgeon with his Servant (being a Pole) to follow me, as alſo two of our Ships-Folk, to wit, James Trappen, and Chriſtian Brandt. Coming below we found there two Ruſſes who ſtood Sentinel, whom I charged to let us through. Theſe not knowing any thing of the Tumult let us thrô without much difficulty or Interrogations. The Chirurgeon went out before, and I followed, but knew not what became then of the two Seamen and the Pole. We were forced to wade thrô the Ditch to the neck, aiming at the Tartarian Field Quarters, which, as I have ſaid, was burnd up that it might not be an advantage to the Enemy, which place we held for the moſt ſafe and ſecure. They ſhot at us mainly from the Walls, but all to little purpoſe for we were got pretty far without Cannon reach, at leſt for ſingle Bodies: But marching a little forward we met two men, whom we ſuppoſed to be Coſacks, the Chirurgeon having a Firelock reſolved to diſcharge as he alſo did, and ſo far ſurpriſed he was that he grew deſperate and throwing himſelf into the River fell a ſwimming. When I came up with them I underſtood that they were alſo fled for fear of being maſſacred by the Commonalty; upon▪ which I called out to the Chirurgeon that they were honeſt Men and under [Page] the ſame Circumſtances we were our ſelves, &c. but could have no anſwer fro [...] him. However not willing to leave him ſo, I went to look out for him, and foun [...] him among the Reeds half ſpent, whence I drew him out, and perceiving him to b [...] in a way of Recovery marched forward along the River; and at laſt found a Fellow ſleeping in a Boat, whom we awakened and compelled to bring us over to the other ſide: but finding no place of ſhelter or ſecurity we fell down the River, and about [...]0 in the forenoon came to a Fiſhing place called Troſilzen Outzjouge, where we related all what had paſſed at Aſtrachan to the Fiſhers. We would have gone further, but the Ruſſians would not go with us. However I prevailed ſo far with the Chirurgeon that he was willing rather to go to Sea, than to truſt himſelf to the mercy of the Coſacks. But he was very loth to truſt himſelf in ſuch a ſmall Boat, being well acquainted with the danger by untemperate Winds, inconſtant Seaſons, and uncertain Tides. I had no more money by me than 7 Rubbels [about 3 lb. Sterl.] and bought a Mug-tent or Pavilion with a loaf of Bread weighing about 10 lb. and with that put off, truſting to the Providence of Almighty GOD, having the advantage of the Tide. After two hours rowing we met 2 Fiſhers Boats, to whom we related how affairs ſtood at Aſtrachan. The Fiſhers gave us very good words and comfortable Language, promiſing to aſſiſt us in what they might. We rowed as hard as we could, and bare them company to their Fiſhing place, called Ivanow [...] Outzjoug, where we met with a Ruſſian Colonel, 2 Captains and 46 Strelitzen, The Colonels name was Maxim Lopatim, and lay in Garriſon at Terky intending for Aſtrachan, but had not as then heard of the horrid Treaſon and Rebellion of the Commonaltie there, nor ſo much as of the Attacque and Siege of the Coſacks. He underſtanding how affairs ſtood there, reſolved to row back with us in the Boat to Terky, and adviſing the two Captains to do the like who put their Goods aboard, and tacitly left the Strelitzers at Ivanowa Outzoug. Thus we rowed with all ou [...] might, till we got the Caſpian Sea, ſtill keeping near the Bank. After a little rowing we eſpied a Boat which rowed very hard after us: we alſo did all we could to outrow them, but they being more expert than we in general, gain'd room of us, and coming near our boat, one of the Ruſſian Captains jump'd over board, and was afterwards taken up by them. All the Arms we had was my Piſtol, for the Chirurgeon had thrown his into the Water, when he ſwam to ſave himſelf without Aſtrachan, as I have already, mentioned. In the Keel or Veſſel that followed us were ſeveral Fiſhers, together with the Strelitzers, which were formerly under the Command of thoſe Officers that were with us ad left at Ivanowa Outzoug, who it ſeems ſo reſented the matter that they had declared themſelves Coſacks, thrô diſguſt that the Officers had not given them warning of the affairs of Aſtrachan, who probably would have bin faithfull if they had bin ſo kind as to acquaint them with the matter. In ſhort they cloſed up with us, took, plundered, bound and brought us back again to the Fiſhing place, where the Colonel alone had the Liberty to exerciſe his Devotion in the Church, but we were ſecured with a ſtrong Guard all the night long.

ON Thurſday the 25 of July they made preparation to bring us up to Aſtrachan, and about noon we got ſight of the Town: and coming to a very convenient place [Page] to land at, they went a ſhoar and divided the ſpoil, which they had taken from us. Being now alone I conſulted with the Chirurgeon how that we might eaſily make out eſcape being unbound and the Boat only made faſt to a half-pike which I could very eaſily manage. The Chirurgeon intimated the matter to the Colonel, deſiring that he would joyn indeavours with us to get free: but (whether out of fear, or in hopes of better uſage at the hands of the Rebells I cannot tell) he forthwith diſcovers the deſign, and gave the Rebells warning to have a care: upon which they ſet a watch and guarded us ſo ſtrictly that we could not make our eſcape. Seeing that our Enterpriſe proved abortiv and ineffectual, I told the Chirurgeon that I would run a little up the Iſland and ſwim over the Water to the Tartars, which I eſſay'd to do, but was follow'd and taken; yet had that attempt not bin in vain if I had not chanc'd to fall which was no ſmall diſadvantage to me: however I betook me to the Water which I found there very ſhallow, ſo that they with a little wading fetch'd me out. But having got me, I cannot expreſs with what cruelty they uſed me, beating me black and blew, which done, they bound me faſt and threw me into the Boat, ſo rowing up to the Town. By the way the Chirurgeon made a propoſal to them that if they would ſave us alive, they ſhould have 100 Rubbels for my Ranſom and 70 for his own. They promiſed to do their Indeavour for us. In the Evening we arrived at Aſtrachan where we were brought up before the General of the Coſacs. I had no Cloaths about me ſave only a pair of leathern Breeches, which were full of holes. The General ſate at the Gates of the Biſhops Palace eroſslegg'd after the Turkiſh manner drinking Brandy, and was ſo drunk that his Eies roll'd in his Read. He aſked the Chirurgeon who he was? and what his Function was? which when he knew, gave him his Life, and ordered him to take care of the Coſacs that were wounded. Afterward he aſked, who I was? the Chirurgeon made anſwer that I was his Companion: he further aſked me what I could do; but the Chirurgeon leaving me, I could not return him any anſwer. The Ruſſian Colonel being examined, was immediately carried up to the top of a Tower called Rooſcat, and hurled headlong down. From the ſame Tower alſo was the Vice-roy, or Waywod, whoſe name was Ivan Simeunowitz Proſorofski, after many Tortures thrown alſo praecipitantly from Top to Bottom▪ as alſo the Vice-Chancelor with all the Officers, of what degree ſoever they were, either thrown down, or caſt into the Water.

MOST dreadfull was this maſſacre which continued for ſome time together; but GOD Almighty gave me an undaunted ſpirit. The Coſac General looking earneſtly upon me commanded his Men to give me Brandy, and made me drink off 2 cups one after another, and then gave order to bring me into the Camp: But what became of the 2 Ruſſian Captains I cannot tell. As I paſſed by to the Camp being put in a Boat that lay next to the Generals, I was eſpied of a Ruſſian Strelitzer who brought news of my being ſtill alive to Madam Wonderham, the Lieutenant Colonels Widdow. I have already made mention how that among the Dutch Officers that went out with the ſaid Lieutenant Colonel, was one Paul Rudolph his Son in Law who was the only Perſon that remained alive: feigning himſelf in ſuch extremity to be a Coſac, for he was well acquainted with their ſpeech and manners. This [Page] young Gentleman hearing that I was ſtill alive came to find me out in the Boat; and during this while were whole Boat loads of Men brought into the ſtream, and throw into the Water, being tied together ſo that they could not help themſelvs with ſwimming. In this poſture I lay my ſelf till Friday June 27, expecting every moment my laſt Cataſtroph. That day they brought me into a Tower, and tied me ſo hard, that my blood for want of a natural reflux began to corrupt within my Body. My Arms were pinion'd, and my hands made faſt behind my Back: my feet alſo were [...]o hard bound that I never expected to have the uſe of them again. Lying in this Poſture and moſt lamentable ſtate I ſpent my Time in ſighing and groaning. The Chirurgeon of whom we have already ſpoke came to viſit me: I deſired them to ſollicit for my Death, but they ever diſſwaded me from it. Yet ſtill I inſiſted very hard that they would make interceſſion for me to the General that I might be diſpatched, giving them a private reaſon for that my earneſtneſs. Now. there was a Rule among the Coſacks, that if any came to interceed for a Captiv that he ſhould dy himſelf for him, which the Chirurgeon told me alſo, yet promiſed he would adventure himſelf to the General, and for that time took his leave.

THIS night I was moſt barbarouſly uſed by the Coſacks, and Gogelats, a People of Ʋkrain ſo called. And in the mean time was moſt fearfully vexed with Toads and other vermin that continually ran over my Body and about my head in whole ſwarms. However I ſpent my time in prayer as one condemned to dy and aſſured of a ſpeedy Death, of which (I may truly declare) I was not in the leſt affraid, only feared that they would hang me up by the Heels, or put me to ſome ſuch lingring death, with which they continually threatned me.

ON Saturday the 28 of June came the aforeſaid Chirurgeon, and told me that the General had ſent for me: and being untied I could hardly ſtand upright, yet made a ſhift to hupple after him. Being come in to the preſence of the General after a few idle impertinent Queſtions he aſked me bad me go home with the Chirurgeon. From Sunday to Thurſday I continued there in houſe with him, in which time I ſaw much cruelty commited, ſome hanging up by the Feet, others with their Feet and hands chopt off left in the open ſtreet to ſhift for themſelves, none daring ſo much as put forth a finger to help them.

ON Thurſday July 3d I was again taken and carried to the Brink of the River where I expected to part with my Life. But the Coſacks told me, if I would pay the 100 Rubbles, which the Chirurgeon had promiſed them on my behalf, I might go free: which the Chirurgeon, who againſt his will feigned himſelf to be a Coſack, was content to diſburſe for me, which afterwards I was obliged to repay upon demand, when able.

ON Sunday I was ſent for by the General, who was then a Drinking at the Emperors Cellar, but nothing of moment paſſed at that time he being drunk, and forced me to drink off ſeveral Bowls of Brandy and Wine after one another, ſo that I was affraid to diſpleaſe him, being (as I have elſewhere remembred) very outragious when drunk; wherefore I took occaſion to ſteal out of his preſence.

ABOUT this time happened many memorable paſſages, and cruel Examples of Tyranny, which would prove too tedious to relate. I ſhould want words to expreſs [Page] [Page]

Schrickelycke Moordt int Slod [...] van ASTRACAN

A. Het Slot van Aſtracan.

B. Tooren ſhae [...]de art Slot.

C. D. Stade Astracan

D. D. Baſſchen overſte [...]ande T [...]ora geſmete.

E. D'Gouvernour Ivan Simennowitz en order Cansetier vande to ren geſmeten

G. Offeciers van Proseroſki [...]lendich omgebrackt

H. Alexe Alexewitz ſecretaris by de rib [...]e [...] op g [...]ng [...]n de ſoon van c [...]n Cham u [...]t Cilan

I. [...]ee Soonen vande Gouvern [...]ur [...]yde Boris [...] by de [...] op [...]hangen.

K. Ge [...]ngen [...] dis a [...]le omgebracht ſya.

L. Vluc [...]ende dis Ach [...]r [...]alt en god [...]ot wor [...]en.

M. Plaets daer ſy de Doode [...] op mallander [...]

N. Wrn parſery

O. De Kerck

P. Net Gerecht Huys

Q. Muur van't Slodt

[Page] [Page] the moſt barbarous and inhuman Acts and Torments, which the Coſacks ſtudied to kill and torture the Inhabitants and Loyal Officers, who did not forthwith ſubmit themſelvs to their unreaſonable and unjuſt Wills.

On the Wedneſday following was the Secretary Alexo Alexowits hung up upon a Fleſh-hook by the Ribbs, and ſuffered much deſpightful uſage and Torments before he died. The ſame was done to a Noble mans Son of Gilan. Alſo two Sons of the Vice-roy, Deputy, or Waywod were hung up by the heels, the one being a very hopefull youth of about 16 years of Age, and the other a Child of about 7 or 8 at the moſt.

The Day following they were both found alive, and the youngeſt at the interceſſion and Mediator of ſome of Radzins Minions was taken down, and ſaved alive, but the eldeſt was thrown down from the Top of the Tower, whilſt ſtill alive, which was the Death his Father ſuffered.

The ſame day I had News how that Chriſtian Brand one of my Men was ſtill alive, and was conſtrained to feign himſelf as Coſac.

On the 20th of July the Coſac General Radzin departed with an infinite number of ſmall Shipping and ſeverall Thouſands of Men, drawing 20 Men out of each Company to ſerve for the Garriſon at Aſtrachan and left there 2 Governors of equal Command and Power, the one being a Coſac, and the other a Ruſs.

ON the 2 of Auguſt began a New Maſſacre continuing for ſeveral days together, where takeing one day with another, were 150 Perſons killed, ſparing neither ſex nor Age. For which reaſon I began to hunt out for a Cave in the Earth where I might ſave my ſelf in time of need, hearing of nothing but a perpetual and inceſſant maſſacre; and a general Lamentation of Parents for their Children, Widdows and Orphans for their Huſbands and Fathers, and that as well among thoſe who had bin inſtrumental and moſt forward to let in the Rebells, as others that oppoſed it; a juſt reward for their Treachery who had been aſſiſtant in the Bloodſhed of thoſe who under GOD ſhould have protected them from ſuch diſmal Calamities.

ABOUT this time I diſpatched three Letter for Iſpahan and had notice how that Chriſtian Brandt was ſet free. It ſeems that he was taken for a Perſian, having a brown, ſwarthy complexion, and by ſuch means was ſpared in the maſſacre; for all the Dutch were hewn down, or otherwiſe diſpatched, ſave onely L. Fabritius Son in Law to Captain Rudolph.

ABOUT the ſame time I had news by the Chirurgeon, how that my Ships-company that betook themſelvs to flight with the Shallop were run aſtrand on the Scemkal or Dageſtan Coaſt, a Countrey butting out againſt the Caſpian Sea.

ON the 22 of Auguſt was much Tyranny committed in the City, and people of all ages maſſacred. The Chirurgeon after a long ſoliciting procured a Paſport to depart with a Servant to attend him, altho not without giving Security for his Return. This gave me likewiſe opportunity to leave the place under pretext of being his Servant.

ON Munday in the afternoon being Aug. 25 we left Aſtrachan and imbarqued our ſelves aboard a Veſſel belonging to ſome Banjan Merchants, who were alſo pillaged and robbed of all they had.

[Page]ON Tuſeday we came to Sea, ſailing cloſe by the Coaſt and to the Southward. We alſo ſaw 3 ſmall Veſſels, or Barks which indeavoured to keep Company with us. Having paſſed Settinabo Gora the Wind was flat North, and about the Evening all was calm.

THE Day following one of the above mentioned Shipping hail'd us, and ſaid that they were bound for Terki and came from Aſtrachan being laden with Salt. We kept them Company along the Coaſt near the broken Land which is all grown over with huge tall Reeds: we had 11 and 12 Foot Water. At night one of thoſe Veſſels ſtray'd about a Cannon ſhot from us: and the next morning 2 Barks made up towards us and gave Fire, without doing any Execution: But when they came near us the cowardly Banians fell upon their knees and begged their Lives. In each Boat were 9 Perſons and aboard of us were 46, ſome Perſians, Tartars and Bouchars, but moſt Banians. Coming to board us they plundered all to our very Proviſion. I had about 8 Rubbles in Money and my Seal-ring which had bin once already redeemed from the Coſacs. This Ring with the Money I gave to the Chirurgeon; but they threatning to put him to the Torture when it came to his turn to be pillaged; he confeſſed all and delivered up the Money and Ring, beſides 4 double Ducats of his own: but found an opportunity to hide 52 Ducats more after an eſpecial manner about his Body.

WHEN the Coſacks had taken all and pillaged us of what they could find, they held a certain ſort of a Council among themſelves what they ſhould do with us. At laſt it was reſolved after a long debate, that we ſhould be ſaved alive but turned off to Sea, with charge not to come anigh the Coaſt any more, upon pain of being thrown over board if they came to take us again.

UPON this they left us, and gave us opportunity to make uſe of the Wind, which was Weſterly, and about the Evening with a briſk Gale, and a dark moon we ſet ſail and bore up to the Sea.

BUT after we had ſailed about 2 Leagues the Weather began to be ſomwhat boiſtrous, ſo that we were fain to put in at a ſmall Creek of an Iſland, where we lay at Anchor till Saturday following; at what time the Weather growing more calm and temperate we weighed and bore up again to the Coaſt, where we immediatly deſcried 2 Barks that made up to us, and at laſt came cloſe by the board. The Chirurgeon and I had taken our laſt Farewel of each other, expecting nothing more than Death. In ſhort, they fell a plundering us, and I to paſs for a Banjan had anointed my ſelf with Black tempered with Greace, and tied a Handhercheif about my Head, but it was ſo botchingly don that they found occaſion to aſk the Chirurgeon, what for a Black Devil that I was? In the mean while they ſearched very cloſe for Bread and Proviſion which I ſeeing pointed to my mouth, whereupon they were ſo merciful as to return me a part of the Proviſion back again. Two Degeſtan Merchants were thrown over board and the Chirurgeon who paſſed for a Pole was moſt ſeverely beat. They threatned that if they met us again near the Coa [...] that we ſhould have no Mercy at their hands. Meanwhile I had loſt my little Compaſs, ſo that we had no other help in directing our Courſe, than only the Sun and North-ſtar. Towards the Evening it began to blow hard again and the Pyrats left [Page] us, bearing up cloſe to the Coaſt. The Surgeon had again hid his Gold in a place where they did not once make ſearch for it.

THE Wind continued hard till Thurſday following, blowing moſtly from North-W. and by N. and now changed again into W. N. W. which was good and favourable for us; but the Banians would in no wiſe give their conſent that we ſhould weigh Anchor, for that they thought it too high and boiſtrous.

BUT on Saturday the Wind continuing ſtill in the ſame point, we weighed, and with a freſh Gale ſteered away South and by Weſt; and ſoon after deſcried a ſmall Veſſel riding at Anchor, being one of thoſe that left Aſtrachan with us: thoſe aboard were Perſians and had the luck to eſcape the Coſacks, keeping off at Sea. When they ſaw who we were, they weighed and kept us company. Towards the Evening the Wind blew North-Eaſt, and I found that we had ſailed too much Weſterly, I preſs'd hard that we ſhould alter our courſe, but could not praevail with them to ſteer another way: ſo that in the Morning we found our ſelves cloſe to the Coaſt, and had the Wind at Eaſt and by N. With this ſort of Shipping it is very difficult to ſteer without 12 points of the Compaſs Wind to their advantage.

HOWEVER we thought good to keep cloſe to the Coaſt, but towards the Evening it growing calm we rowed off to the Seaward and loſt the other Veſſel. Meanwhile we began to be diſtreſſed for want of Proviſion, and fed of the crums of moldy Bread: and the greateſt part of the Company had no more to eat. But the Banjans were beſt provided, and imparted to us ſuch as they had.

INTERIM, the Wind came about Eaſt, and E. and by S. ſo that we were conſtrained to drop Anchor, and ſo to ride three days at half a fathom Water. Yet growing calmer we ever now and then rowed a little. But having ſpent all our [...]ood were at a great loſs for Fewel to bake bread, of that little quantity of Meal which the Banians had left: and were fain at laſt to cut up ſome parts of the Ship [...]r Chips, which ſtood us in very good ſtead. The Wind then continued Eaſterly and we ſteered as far Southerly as we could, till on the 10th. of September towards the Evening we came to a good place of Anchorage, near the Coaſt, of 5 Foot water, where I ſtept aſhoar to ſeek up ſome Wood and Herbs, or what elſe I thought might be ſerviceable to us on our Voyage.

ON Thurſday being the 11th. of September we ſailed cloſe by the Coaſt which we kept in ſight till Saturday following, when as the Banians, a poor and helpleſs People not able to endure ſuch hardſhip, preſſed very hard that we ſhould put aſhoar, which out of meer pity we were willing to do, being all wet and very cold.

MEANWHILE we were ſet upon by a party of Coſacks, who now the third time plundered us: but the Chirurgeon not having time nor the conveniency to hide his Ducats as before, digged a hole and hid them in the Sand, and threw down his Muſquet about the ſame place for a token to find them again. I alſo being afraid, [...]an and hid my ſelf among the Reeds; but they making a very narrow ſcrutiny [...]ound me out: and having by me a Pſalmbook found that paſſage or Title of a Pſalm, where David is ſaid to have feigned himſelf mad before the Philiſtines to eſcape them, I reſolved to do the like, by which means I eſcaped. When they had me [Page] they diſputed what Countreyman I was, and ſome of them ſaid I was a Dutchman: but others ſaid I was a Georgian, and to my Happineſs the latter ſway'd it. However (not without wounding and killing of ſome of our Company they let us go, and themſelvs departed from us: which the Chirurgeon ſeeing went and after much ſeeking found his Gold.

ON the 20 of September it was very good Weather; we therefore made ready to ſet ſail. About noon being under ſail we ſaw about 30 Tartars on the Strand who called out to us that we ſhould come aſhoar: This unwelcom ſummons mainly added to our fear; inſomuch that one of the Banians ran aſhoar and fell down upon his Knees. The Boat was drawn aſhoar, and after they had conſulted a little together what they ſhould do with us they demanded Ranſom, which was agreed upon for 3 Rubbles each Man. They were Circas and Nagayan Tartars, and accepted of one of the Banians for a Pledge till the Ranſom was paid. We went about two Miles with them and left our Veſſel behind us. I had with me a little Coffer of Books which I carried along with me; and was fain to trudge a foot without either Shoes or Stockings thrô Thiſtles and Brambles, inſomuch that my Feet were all bliſtered and bloody. Towards the Evening we came in a Bay where their Shipping lay. Here I met with an Armenian whom I had formerly known at Aſtrachan who treated me very kindly, as alſo my Companion the Chirurgeon: but we having in ſo long a time not eaten any thing which was fitting for human food, did Anatomize what was ſet before us at ſuch that the Armenian obſerving it, thought good to take away before we had half ſatiſfied ourappetite for fear we ſhould ſurfeit our ſelves.

HERE we tarried three Days, waiting for a good Wind to go for Tarku, but that not falling out in this time are determined rather to go by land than to ſtay there Wind-bound, it being not above a Days Journey, yet very perillous for the Tartars who continually lay in wait for diſtreſſed, and ſtranded Paſſengers, in theſe unhappy Proceedings of the Coſacks, who made the Caſpian Sea very unſafe to ſail.

ON Tuſeday being the 30 of September we ſet forward, and after a very tedious Days Travel thrô Boggs and Marſhes we got to a Village inhabited by Nagaya [...] Tartars: where we took up our nights reſt in the Circas Quarter. Here we met with a Friend of the Chirurgeons, whom we offered 8 Ducats to conduct us to Derbent, which he undertook to do. Here I ſpoke alſo with Ivan Turken Agent to his Imperial Majeſty, who was a Turk born, but a Ruſſian Proſelyte, and had a Brother at M [...]ſcöu who was of the Reformed Religion and an intimate Friend of mine. This ſaid Gentleman intreated me to ſtay longer at Terku, but I declined their kind offer yet was fain to accept of it for 2 Days having ſo charged and overloaden my ſtomach with eating that I fell ſick upon it.

ON the 6th. of October we ſet forward for Derbent in company with the Banians. Now by the way you are to note that every day we ſuffered ſuch hunger, a Mans ranſom was thrown into the water, which the ſuperſtitious Banians hold for a ſpecial act of Piety and a Religious Injunction. By the way we met ſom Thouſand of Tartars, for whom we were not a little affraid, they being Nagayans and noted Plagiaries.

[Page]AFTER three days travel we came to a Village called Andre Dereefad which was ſubject to one Chapelle, a Tartarian Prince. We ſtaid here till Munday following being the ſeventh of October. Here I happened to ſpy a Perſian who had my Pluſh-Coat on, which he ſaid he had bought at Terku. The Fur or Lining coſt me thirty five Rubbles at Muſcou; and the Perſian was willing to ſell it me again for five or ſix Rubbles, but I could not accompliſh ſo much Money as to purchaſe it. Here we alſo came to underſtand that my Shipsfolk who fled in a Challop were ſtranded and taken ſlaves.

ON Thursday the tenth ditto, we came into Terku, where we had two Armenians for our Friends; theſe alſo brought me to one of their Acquaintance for Protection, where I was adviſed to keep my ſelf very private, being a free Prize for the Tartars. Here we alſo found Lewis Faber of whom I have already made mention, as alſo Chriſtian Brand one of my Ships-folk; who left Aſtrachan three Weeks after us, and had been eight Days at Terku.

ON the thirteenth we left Terku, and hired a perſon for eight Ducats to conduct us to Derbent.

ON the ſeventeenth we paſſed by Boynak, where I underſtood ſom of our Men were in ſlavery, I ſent our Conduct up to the Town (not daring appear there my felf) with Letters to adviſe them to perſiſt in the Chriſtian Faith, if they were preſs'd upon to embrace Mahometaniſm with promiſe of doing my beſt to procure their Redemption. But my Squire the Courier, thought good to give us the Bag, having already got his Money in hand, nor did I ever hear a word from them, althô I gave them directions how to write to me at Derbent. However when I arrived there I found Cornelius de Ʋries, who had been my Gunner; and one Peter Arentſz of Sceveling, who gave me a perfect account of the Ships-Company, how they were taken Slaves, and whither they were carried, &c.

WE ſolicited by the Sultan of Derbent for the Redemption of our Men, who was pleaſed to diſpatch Letters on that behalf to the Prince of the Calmuc-Tartars; but having ſent two Poſts, and all to no purpoſe or effect, I went to tender my thanks to the Sultan for his Civility and Indeavours; to which he reply'd, ‘That he was ſorry he could not prevail with the Tartars to anſwer my. Deſire, yet was willing to do us any kindneſs that lay in his power, if we could imagine any mean whereby they might procure their Liberty, &c.’ I inſiſted further to have ſom Horſes for our uſe on the Journey which he granted; but there was none to be had in all the Town, the Caravan being but newly ſet forward for Scamachy. Yet finding another ready to depart, the Seamen went afoot in company of the Caravan. I ſupplied them alſo with neceſſary Proviſions, and told them that I would ſtay a day, or two longer, to ſee if I could get ſom Horſes and then follow them. But it was in vain, for I could not get any, wherefore I followed the Caravan and coming at Scabran. which is reckoned the half way, we were informed that there were ſeveral Hackneys in the Town, which we hired.

ON the twenty ninth we arrived at Scamachi: where we found John Struys [Page] our Sail-Maker, who was bought by a Poliſh Ambaſſadour, whoſe Aſſiſtance I deſired in an Addreſs to the Chan; 'tis true he ſeemed willing to do us ſuch a favour if it could have been done without much Trouble. Here I delivered a Requeſt to the Chan, and had Audience, wherein I made a plain demonſtration of the Injury our Men ſuffered by the Calmucs, &c. He promiſed me to do his beſt for them, but all was to no purpoſe, ſo that I was fain to take up ſeventy five Abbas upon ſecurity of a Banian Merchant, which was to be paid at Iſpahan within ſeven Weeks time and twenty five Abbas Uſe, or Intereſt; but in caſe of failure of payment in Iſpahan, to be paid at Scamachy within three Months with fifty Abbas Intereſt; the Chirurgeon being my ſecurity. Here I alſo reck'ned with the Chirurgeon, and gave him an Obligation under my hand for what I had received of him, as alſo for what he remained ſecurity for me at Scamachy.

ON the fifteenth I left Scamachy having with me Cornelius the Gunner. P. Arentſz ſtaid with the Chirurgeon, and J. Struys, L. Fabritius and Chriſtian Brand with the Poliſh Envoy.

I had very much difficulty by the way to come to Iſpahan, yet by the Providence of Almighty God arrived here the tenth of March, and have Reſidence for the time, in the Dutch Lodge: where I find Sr. Frederic Bent Preſident for the Eaſt-India Company, to whom, as well as the Gentlemen his Aſſiſtants, I am infinitely obliged to for many Civilities ſhown me. Cornelius the Gunner they have ſent away for Gameron. I alſo cauſed J. Struys and the ſaid Gunner, with another Fore-Maſt Man to ſign a Declaration how they fled away from Aſtrachan and left me and the Maſter aſhoar.

SIR, I have not elſe to write, but fearing by this prolixity to have tired your Patience, I ceaſe to be more tedious, and commit you to the Protection of the Moſt High GOD, who that he would in Mercy vouchſafe us a happy meeting is the only and hearty Prayer, of

SIR,

Your obedient Servitor, DAVID BUTLER.

A TABLE Of The Names and moſt remarkable Things contained in the three Voyages of IOHN STRUYS.

[Page]

A

A.

A· Mrack, what it is. 54.

Animoſities in Aſtrachan. 193.

S. Anthony, how the Ruſſians ſay he came to Novogorod. 123.

Ararat, its Situation and deſcription, & ſeqq. 214,

Araxes [flu.] deſcribed.

Ardebil a City in Perſia deſcribed.

Argentero. 74.

Argoftoli, a good Harbour. 98.

Arno [flu.] 68.

Aſcenſion Iſland. 3 [...]8.

Aſſhur, a Feſtival Day among the Perſians celebrated in memory of Hoſſeyn with a ſolemn Proceſſion. 263.

Aſtrachan, it's Situation and Deſcription. 177, & ſeqq.

Aſtypalaea, ſee Stampalia.

An Atteſtation given the Author by a Hermite upon Mount Ararat. 216.

Auricular Confeſſion in the Ruſſian Church. 154

Auſere [flu.] 68.

B

B.

BAchal, a Town in Media. 238.

Bachu, a place famous for Steel and Iron work. 280

Bairam, or Biram del Carban, the Paſchal Feaſt of the Perſians. 305

Banjans, their Superſtition. 275.

Baptiſm among the Ruſſians. 153.

Baronez, a ſtrange kind of Fruit found near Aſtrachan. 180.

Baſilius (Imp.) firſt Eſtabliſher of the Chriſtian Religion in Moſcovia. 151.

Baths, why uſed in Moſcovia. 147.

In Perſia. 212.

The Bath of Tenos, where the Heathens were wont to wash before they entered the Temples. 111.

Battoki, a form of Puniſhment in Moſcovia. 156.

Bears and Wolvs affrighted with Fire. 119.

A ſtrange Paſſage of a hungry Bear. 121.

Wonderfull boldneſs of Bears ibid.

Bear-baiting in Moſcovia. 129.

Beleaſar. 136.

The greateſt Bell in the World at Moſcou, with an accompt of its weight & Dimenſions. 134.

Bernardo Bragadino his admirable Courage in an Engagement againſt the Turks 86,

Bethzyrvan, Mountains in Perſia. 283.

Biloege, the Fish whereof Cavear is made. 199.

Boa Viſta [inſul.] Situation and Deſcription. 5.

Bocharen, a Place affoarding great plenty of Furrs. 223.

Bochdan, the Ambaſſad [...]ur for the King of Poland, his ill deportment at Scamachi, deſires to become Turk, &c. 244, & ſeqq. His churlishneſs to the Author, ibid.

Aſks his advice if he might go for Holland by the conſent of the Eaſt-India Company their Directors. 246.

Boghze Dome, a Place appointed for Burial of unſanctified Ruſſes. 150.

Boldea the Haven of Riga. 115.

Bologne, a City in Italy reſembling a Ship. 72.

Bonzi of Syam their Office, Habit, &c. 35.

[Page] Bottarge, a delicate Dish prepared at Corfu, made of the Roes of Sturgeon, 97.

Alſo at Xante. 99.

Bouchadde, Tenedos ſo called by the Turks. 91.

Bouchourt, ſee Trachana.

Boynak a Town in Tartary. 108.

Brak, the Authors Companion ſold by the Semkal-Tartars for 3 years, and then by Reverſion to return to his firſt Patron, 234.

His Wife raviſhed by the Tartars in preſence of the Company, 210.

She becomes the Prince of Scemkals Concubine, 234.

She hinders her huſband for going away, ibid.

He goes away privately, and was never heard of ſince, ibid.

Butriato, a famous place for Fiſhing. 97.

C

C.

CAback [vide Kaback]

Cabo Verdo Iſlands. 5. & ſeqq.

Caffers, th' Inhabitants of Sierra Liones ſo called. 9.

Calmuc Tartars an ougly People. 174. deſcribed. ibid.

Cambodiers ſeveral of them taken in a Junk, freighted with prohibited Goods, and by the Loving Kindneſs of the Hollanders, turned adrift in a Boat without Rudder, Sail, Oars or Proviſion, being but 40. Dutch Leagues from Land. 45.

The ſame Junk perishes upon the Rocks, before the Fort Zelandia. 55.

Candia, deſcribed. 100. & ſeqq.

Caſpian Sea deſcribed. 122, 224.

Caſwin a famous Town formerly the Royal Seat of the Kings of Perſia. 304.

Cavear, whereof made, 199.

Ʋſed in ſtead of Butter, during the Faſt in Moſcovia. ibid.

Caſan, a City and Countrey in Ruſſia, deſcribed. 177, & ſeqq. 166.

Cephalonia [Inſul.] 98.

Cerigo, an Iſland lying about 13 Dutch leagues from Candia. 99, 100.

Chalſe Schuran, or Dipping of the Croſs, a Ceremony uſed by the Armenians. 248.

Children, put to death at Madagaſcar, and why. 19.

Chioggio, a City in Italy oppoſite to Venice famous for Fishing and Gardens. 73.

Chryſolodos, his Tomb in the Iſle of Pathmos. 79.

Churches, in the City Moſcou computed to be in number above 1700. 135.

Circas Tartars the Bounds of their Countrey, 204.

Their Perſons deſcribed, ibid.

The Women great beauties, ibid.

Go with naked Breſts, 205.

Their emulation in Habit, and freedom to converſe with Strangers, ibid.

The Religion of the Circas Tartars and their Idolatry, ibid.

Their Funerals. 206.

Circumciſion uſed at Madagaſcar. 21.

Cochino, formerly called Epheſtias and then the chief Town of Lemnos. 91.

Colomna, a beautiful Village in Moſcovia. 125, 158.

Communion in the Ruſſian Church, how, 154.

Condea a Town in Lemnos. 91.

Congo, a good Corps du Garde and Lanthorn for the Chriſtians to enter the Archipelago. 100.

Corfu, an Iſland of great ſtrength. 96.

Coſac Krim, an exceeding high Mountain. 173.

Coſacks, their Diviſion and Limits. 183.

Cothany, a Town in Media. 238.

Crap, a Root uſed in Dying. 222.

Crim or Cerem Tartars, their Cuſtoms, Nature and Idolatry, 163.

Ceremonies about the Dead, uſual Habits [Page] and Marriages. 164.

Crocodiles uſed for Medicine at Syam. 29.

Cuſmademianſki, a City upon the Wolga,

Czar of Moſcovy ſends to Amſterdam, for Seamen. 114.

Whence and Why he is called Czaar, 155.

His Power and Soveraignty, ibid.

His Title, ibid.

His Revenues and ſtrictneſs of Juſtice. 156.

D

D.

DAgeſtan a Countrey of the Tartars ſubject to ſeveral Princes and Lords. 210.

Dageſtan Tartars why ſo called, 2 [...]7.

The nature, form, and way of Living of the Inhabitants, ibid, & ſeqq.

More mercifull than the Calmucs. 234.

Date-Trees how procreated. 341.

Delos, an Iſland in the Aegean Sea famous for the many Temples and Relicts of Heatheniſh Antiquities. 110.

Den Duyvel van TAYOVAN, an Animal in Formoſa, ſo called by the Hollanders. 56.

Derbent, the Key of Perſia on the Hyrcan Sea. 225.

The Ruins and Relicts of the Walls thereof built by Alexander the Great. 226.

Watch Towers and great Slave-market at Derbent. 227.

Slaves unkindly uſed at Derbent. 228.

Dian Manans, an imagined Deity among the Madagaſcars.

Dick Kop, A ſmall Fiſh of a wonderfull ſtrength. 225.

Don a River, formerly Tanais, whence the Don Coſacks, runs not into the Wolga according to the vulgar opinion. 194.

Dwino, 136.

Dydenof, a Town and Wharf on the Volga. 158.

E

E.

EArth-quakes frequent at Xante, 99.

Zantotini, 107.

2 great Earth-quakes at Zantorini, ibid.

Several Earth-quakes at Scamachi, where by one 80000 Men were deſtroyed, Mountains and Villages removed, &c. 240.

Eaſter, how celebrated by the Moſcovians. 158.

Elephants uſed for Executioners at Syam, 47.

Served in Gold, 32.

Wars about the white Elephant. 33.

A merry paſſage about an Elephant. 63.

Embro [inſul.]

The Engliſh take Saint Helena, 355.

And the Ship Europa, a Dutch Eaſt-India Ship, ibid.

Alſo the Admiral and Vice-Admiral. 358.

Enkurekan, a venemous creature like a ſpider, but bigger than a mouſe. 311.

Epiphany celebrated by the Armenian Chriſtians at Iſpahan. 325.

Ervan or Urwan, a City under Mount Ararat in Armenia. 213.

F

F.

FAſts, four ſolemn Faſts in the year in Ruſſia, and the great Prophaneneſs therein committed. 154.

Ferrara, a Town in Italy. 73.

Firando in Japon. 59.

Flax, a great Commodity in Moſcovia. 135.

Formoſa [Inſul.] it's Situation, Clime and Circumference, 55.

Fertility and Products, ibid.

Form and complexion of the Inhabitants, 56.57.

A Man with a Tail burn'd at Formoſa. ibid.

[Page]Habit of Men and Women there. 58.

Furrs, a great Profit to the Great Duke of Moſcovia. 138.

G

G.

GAmeron, or Bendar in Perſia deſcribed. 349.

Garlick and Onions much uſed in Ruſſia 137.

Garriſenda, a Tower in Bologne built crooked for a Proof of Art. 72.

Genua deſcribed. 3.

Gilan an eminent place for Silk. 223.

The Bay of Gilan it's compaſs. 224.

Greece deſcribed. 92.

Cuſtome and uſual Attire of the Inhabitants. 92, 93.

Grotta Sybilla. 70.

H

H.

HAdzi Biram Aly, a rich Merchant in Perſia buys the Author. 229.

The Author ſaves him from drowning. ibid.

His great kindneſs to the Author. 230.

Hardineſs of the Ruſſians in extremities. 137, 138.

Hares, in great abundance about Cothany. 238

St. Helena (Inſul) 63.

Hemp, a main Product and the ſtaple Commodity in Moſcovia. 301.

Het Hups te Gennip, the Ship on board of which the Author was in great danger. 66.

Honey, found in great plenty at Milo, 111.

And in Moſcovia. 135.

Hoſleyn, a Perſian Saint and Second Son to Aly a Feaſt celebrated to the memory of him. 263

Hunting, a main exerciſe in Formoſa. 59.

I

I.

St JAge [Inſul,] Situation, 6. and Deſcription 7.

Japoneezes their Form, Nature, Habit and Cuſtoms, &c. 62.

Ilha del Fuego. 7.

Ilha de Brava. 8.

Indrapoura Inſul.] 24.

Iſpahan deſcribed. 315.

Judia the chief City of Syam deſcribed. 27.

K

K.

Kabacks', Alehouſes or Taverns in Moſcovia, farmed of the Emperour. 156.

Kabelang, a Province in Formoſa. 58.

Kaliklefthan. 252.

Kamuſchincha, a Ruſſian Town taken in by Craft of Radzin. 193.

Kaſſchan, its Scituation and Deſcription. 310.

A Key made of an Emerald, shown in a Church at Genua. 4.

Keydar Peyamber, a very high Mountain in Perſia. 301.

Kieſelarſche Kolthre. 201.

Kiſſel-baſſched; the Soldiery ſo called at Derbent, their unruly and ill temper. 2 [...]9.

Kiſiloſeyn, a ſwift River in Perſia. 299.

Knutter, a form of Punishment in Ruſſia. 156.

Koſtar, a great River running through the Mountains of Elbur. 236.

Koctep, a village in Perſia. ibid.

L

L.

LAzaro Mocenigo fights the Argerines, Tripoleezes, &c. 103.

Killed. 105.

Laar, or Lar, a City in Perſia deſcribed. 246.

Leghorn deſcribed. 67.

Lemnos, attacqued by the Venetians and ſurrendred upon Articles, 92.

Deſcribed. ibid.

Lifelanders, their Properties, Habits and Cuſtoms. 127.

Linden-Tree its' manifold uſe. 165.

[Page] A Liſt of the Head-Officers in the Venetian Navy as they were ingaged againſt the Turks. 83.

Lorenzo Marcello General of thn Venetians killed. 88.

M

M.

MAdagaſcar; Situation of the Iſland. 15.

Cuſtoms of the Inhabitants, 19.

Their Marriages, 18.

Funerals. 19.

Religion, Superſtitions, 21.

Government. 22.

An odd paſſage, where a Dutch Captain meets with a King of that Countrey who had formerly bin his Slave. 13.

Fertility of Madagaſcar. ibid.

Majo [Inſul] Situation and Deſcription. 6.

Malefactors, how punished in Moſcovia 156.

Malhora, a rock near Leghorn. 67.

Marco Bembo Admiral of the Ships of war in the Venetian Armade hotly ingaged with the Turks; 80.

Takes the Capitana; 89.

Killed. 105.

Mares-milk in great eſteem by the Tartars. 182.

Marriages of the Madagaſcars, 18

Of the Syammers, 39.

Of the Moſcovians. 131, & ſeqq.

Merchants, eight murthered in a Wood of Moſcovia 126.

Metellino, ſee Mytelene.

Meynderts Iſland. 203.

Middleton, an Engliſh Ship engaged with a Fleet of Turkish Galleys, againſt which ſhe valiantly defends her ſelf. 79.

Milo [Inſul.] 74 75.

Eminent for able Sea-men and Fiſhers, 111.

The prime place to Water at. ibid.

Mochan, or Mokan, a great Heath in Perſia, dangerous for Robbers. 283.

Moſcou deſcribed. 130.

Mulbery Trees in great plenty at Tenos. 111.

Mummay Kobas, a moſt coſtly Balſem proceeding out of a Rock. 262.

Murtherers delivered over to the Friends of the murthered Party in Perſia. 262.

Muſkar, a City in Media. 237.

Muſkettos, many of thoſe Flies in Lifeland.

Mytilene, an Iſland in poſſeſſion of the Turks. 76.

A bold Attempt of the Author and his Company to fetch off cattel from Mytilene. ibid.

A deſcription of that Iſland. 109.

N

N.

NAchay, a little Fiſh of a wonderfull ſtrength. 225.

Nagayan and Crim Tartars deſcribed. 181.

Nangueſaque, or Nangueſaky, a City in Japon, built by the Portugueezes. 60.

Merchandiſe and Traffic of that Place, ibid.

A great Hurricano that happened there, ibid.

Situation and Deſcription of Nangueſaky. 61.

Naphtha, an oil running out of Rocks, how got. 237, 238.

Napoli di Malvazia attacqued by the Venetians. 106.

Natens a City in Perſia. 312.

Naurus, ſee New years day. 257.

Nayſobath, a fair village in Schirwan, or Old Media, where the Holſteyn Ambaſſadors ſuffered Shipwrack. 237.

Necromancy, much practiſed in Lifeland. 117.

New years day celebrated by the Perſians. 257.

Nicſia, an Iſland famous for the Temple of Apollo, w [...]oſe Ruins ſtill appear. 10 [...].

Nieu meulen [oppid.] 1 [...]6.

[Page]Niſen-Novogored. 161.

Niſobath, [ſee Nayſobath]

Noah's Sepulchre. 332.

Novogorod deſcribed. 123.

O

O.

OEtsjoege. 199.

Onions and Garlick much eaten in Ruſſia. 137.

The great Orchard near Tzurbag, how planted, 213.

Variety of fruit therein. ibid.

Oron, the Primo Vizier comes down to ſee Ingagement between the Venetian and Ottoman Armada. 104.

Oſmin, a Province and Dominion of the Tartars. 210.

Their manner of chuſing a Prince or Protector. ibid.

The Author and his Company taken, hardly uſed, made Slaves and brought to the Prince of Oſmin. 210, 211.

Taxed for Coſacs and Radziniſts. 212.

P

P.

PAdar, the Inhabitants of Koctep in Perſia ſo called, much addicted to ſtealing. 237.

Pagods of Syam. 35, 36.

Liberality of the Syamers to the Pagods and Bonzi. ibid.

Palm-Sunday how celebrated by the Ruſſians. 157.

Palſo Caſtro a Town in Lemnos. 92.

Paniegros a Poliſh Nobleman murthered in his Bed. 243.

Parmach, or Barmach, a Mountain where they get Naphtha, or Petroleum. 237.

Patany aſſiſts the King of Syam againſt Ava. 33.

Pathmos, the City and Iſland. 93.

Patriarch of Moſcovia, his Office, Power, Habit, &c. 152.

Peace, how treated upon and ratified by the Kings of Madagaſcar. 23.

Pelicans in great abundance about the Caſpian Sea. 201.

Perſepolis. 332: & ſeqq.

Petroleum, ſee Naphtha.

Petzora, a montanous Countrey in Ruſſia. 136.

Pitſiora in Lifeland deſcribed.

Piſa deſcribed. 68.

Pletskow in Lifeland deſcribed. 121:

A ſhank-bone of a giant to be ſeen at Pletskow. 122.

Po [flu.] 73.

Pochmelie, a Ruſſian Diſh. 1 [...]9.

Poddowodda, what it is. 122.

Polygamy allowed at Madagaſcar, 18.

In Syam, 40.

By the Crim-Tartars. 164.

Porto de Caniſos. 5.

de Ribeirra Corea. ibid.

de Praye. ibid.

Prattelino, a famous Pallace in Florence. 69.

Q

Q.

QUas, a Ruſſian Liquor. 139.

R

R.

RAdzin, his Offſpring, 183.

The Reaſon of his Rebellion, 184.

The firſt Inſolences he committed, ibid.

His Treachery and Cruelty on the Confines of Perſia, 185.

He ſubmits and obtains pardon from the Czar, 186.

Th [...]ows a Perſian Princeſs into the Wolga, 187.

His ſtrictneſs and Puniſhment of Adultery, 188.

Returns back for Don, 189.

The Ruſſians that follow him are demanded [Page] by the Governor of Aſtrachan, ibid.

Which he refuſes to ſend back. 190.

He gains the Aſtrachan Fleet by Treachery, 191.

His Power and Aw, ibid.

His cruelty when drunk ibid.

The Increaſe of his Army, ibid.

He refuſes the Title of King, 192.

Sends Legates to the King of Perſia, and their ill ſucceſs, ibid.

Sends out Emmiſſaries into ſeveral Towns upon the Volga, 193.

Increaſes his Fleet and Army, ibid.

Takes in Kamuſchinka by craft.

Revenues of the King of Syam, 34.

Of the Czar of Moſcovia. 156.

Rheno [flu.] 72.

Rheſan a fertile Province in Moſcovia. 136.

Riga deſcribed.

Roſtof, 136.

Ruſſes, their Form, Nature and Properties, 138.

Their Diet and uſual Drink, 139.

Their Beaſtlineſs when drunk. 140.

Their great eſteem of Brandy and Tobacco, ibid.

Addicted to Calumny and Jarrs, ibid.

Their uſual Habit, Painting or ſtaining of the Face in practiſe among the Female kind, 141.

The Marriages of the Gentry, ibid, & ſeqq.

Of the Peſantry, 145.

And of the Clergy. 153.

Their Divorcements and the occaſion of the ſame, 146.

Their Superſtitious opinion about cleanneſs and uncleanneſs; 146, 147.

Of their Baths and Hardineſs, ibid.

Their Peculiar Actions, Geſtures and Cuſtoms of the Ruſſians from other People, 148.

Of the Viſitation of their ſick. ibid.

Ceremonies about their Dead, 149.

And the manner of their Funerals, 150.

Of their Religion and Church Government, 151.

S

S.

SAbakſar. 165.

Sakky, a Liquor uſed in Japon. 60.

Samos, an Iſland in the Archipelago, 93.

Two Prizes taken there from the Turks, ibid.

The Author and 6 more there taken and made Slaves. 94.

Sariol Kurgan, a Mountain famous for the Sepulchre of an Emperour and 70 Kings. 173.

Sattiry Boggere, an Iſland at the Mouth of the Wolga taken in by the Coſac-Rebells. 173.

The Rebells erect there a Watch-Tower. 185.

Sauceages of Bologne how made. 72.

Savona [flu.] 72.

Scabaran a Cape in the Caſpian Sea. 224.

Item a City in Media, famous for Rice. 237.

Scalimene, Lemnos ſo called. 91.

Scamachi, or Sumahi, a famous Mart in Media it's Situation, 238.

Deſcribed, 239.

Very ſubject to Earth-quakes, ibid.

Scirwan an eminent Place for great plenty of Silk. 2 [...]3.

Scorpions very annoyſom at Kaſchan. 311.

Scyro [Inſul.] 110.

Sierlan, an Iſland. 203.

Sierras, or Scyras deſcribed. 331.

Skorodom, a part of Moſcou ſo called. 135.

Slave market at Ervan, 213.

At Derbent. 238.

Slaves, how unjuſtly uſed by the Turks, 80.

How uſed at Derbent, 228.

And in Moſcovia. 138.

Smeriglio, a blackſtone of great eſteem, found at Nicſia. 109.

Smiowa, a Mountain, 173.

Smolensko, 136.

Spoon meat much uſed in Ruſſia. 137.

[Page]Stampalia, or Aſtypalaea one of the Cyclid Iſlands. 109.

Standia the Rendevous of the Venetians. 103.

Stariza, taken in by the Coſacks, and 1200 Soldiers kill'd 194.

Stenko [or Stephen] Radzin, ſee Radzin.

Storm at Sea near Xante. 74.

Sultan of Derbent very favourable to the Hollanders. 233.

Sultanie, a famous Town in Perſia deſcribed

Swiatki. 166.

Syberia, a woody Countrey in Moſcovia, famous for Furrs, 136.

The Place of exile for Men that beat their Wives too much. 140.

T

T.

TAfflis, a City in Georgia. 249.

Taurus [Mount.] 299.

Teil-tree [ſee Linden tree]

Temple of Jeruſalem at Moſcou. 134.

Of Appollo, it's Ruins. 109.

Tenedos beſieged by the Venetian Armade and ſurrendred upon Articles. 91.

Deſcribed. ibid.

Beſieged again by the Turks but in vain. 104.

Tenos, the Caſtle blown up with its own Powder. 110.

Terky, a Moſcoviam City its Situation and preſent condition. 203.

Terra Lemnia, or Sigillata, 92.

Torſtok a River and City in Moſcovia. 126.

Tobacco, coveted by the Ruſſians, 126.

Forbidden by Proclamation to be ſmoked. 140.

Tortoiſes in great abundance at Balharu in Perſia. 283.

At Aſcenſion Iſland. 358.

Trachana and Bouchort two ſorts of Bread made at Mytilene, very durable. 109.

Troy, the Remnant of that famous City. 78.

The Author taken in a Vineyard near Troy and made ſlave by the Turks.

Tweer a City in Moſcovia. 126.

Tzanle, a beautifull Town in Perſia. 284.

Tzawaar, a Place in Perſia where every one is to ſhow a Paſport. 282.

Tzornoyar, a City in Ruſs-Tartary. 176.

Tzurbag. [oppid.] 203.

V

V.

VIathe, its Sterility but abundance of Furrs, Honey, and Fish. 136.

Volſke, a Province in Moſcovia rich of Furs. 136.

Uſtioga, a Province in Moſcovia, famous for plenty of Fish and Cattel. 137.

W

W.

WAter, conſecrated by the Armenian Chriſtians. 248.

Wax a great Commodity in Moſcovia. 135.

Whirlpools in the Caſpian Sea. 222.

Whore-market at Caſwin in Perſia. 305.

Wildgeeſe and Pelicans in great abundance about the Caſpian Sea. 201.

Wolf baiting at Moſcou. 129.

Great multitudes of thoſe Beaſts near Colomna in Moſcovia, 161.

Wolmar [oppid.] deſcribed. 118, 119.

Wolodomir, a fertile countrey in Ruſſia. 136.

Wood: A Wood in Syberia whoſe end cannot be found out. 137.

X

X.

XAnte, an Iſland affoarding great plenty of wine. 74.

Many Earth-quakes on that Iſland. 99.

Great ſcarcity of Water. ibid.

Z

[Page]

Z.

ZAntorini, an Iſland ſubject to Earthquakes and Meteors. 107.

Wine very cheap on this Iſland 107.

The Author left ashoar and in great peril of being taken. ibid.

Zelandia, a Fort in Eaſt-India. 63.

Zemſchi Precaus a Place in Ruſſia where any perſon that is found Dead is brought and expoſed to public view. 150.

Zide Tzaybrail taken up and canoniſed after he had bin dead 100. years. 215.

His Sepulchre deſcribed. 290.

The Revenues of the ſame. 296.

Zierlan, or Tzierlan an Iſland on the Caſpian Sea. 203.

Zouaſchi a Neſt of Turkiſh Pyrats, 107.

Taken by Lazaro Mocenigo. ibid.

ERRATA.

PAg. 117. l. 3. read, and ſhave all their Hair, except p. 52. l. 12. before. ibid. l. 20. ſteel. p. 3. l. 27. about. ibid. valleys. 45.18. with. p. 71. l. 20. Gratitude left p. 153. l. 30. for than read thou.

If any thing elſe occurr that may obſcure the ſence which (by reaſon of my abſence from the Preſs) happens in ſome places, the Reader I hope will either be pleaſed to pardon, or amend with the Pen, as alſo the Literal Errors which my leiſure at this time will not permit me to rectify.

NB. The Book-binder may alſo pleaſe to take notice that the Print of the Maſſacre of Aſtrachan may be more fittly placed at pag. 373. than before the Narrativs, according to the Directions given after the Elenchus, in the fore part of the Book.

Information about this book

Title statement

The perillous and most unhappy voyages of John Struys Through Italy, Greece, Lifeland, Muscovia, Tartary, Media, Persia, East-India, Japan, and other places in Europe, Africa and Asia. Containing, I. Most accurate remarks and observations of the distinct qualities, religion, politie, customs, laws and properties of the inhabitants: II. A due description of the several cities, towns, forts, and places of trust, as to their site and strength, fortifications by nature, or art, &c. with other things worthy of note: and, III. An exact memorial of the most disastrous calamities which befell the author in those parts (viz) by ship-wrack, robberies, slavery, hunger, tortures, with other incommodities and hardships. To which are added 2 narrativs sent from Capt. D. Butler, relating to the taking in of Astrachan by the Cosacs. Illustrated with divers curious plates, first designed and taken from the life by the author himself. Rendered out of Nether-dutch by John Morrison·Reysen door Moscovien, Tartarijen, Oost-Indien. English

Struys, Jan Janszoon, d. 1694.

Edition statement

1684

Publication

Publisher

Text Creation Partnership,

Place of publication

Ann Arbor, MI ; Oxford (UK) :

Date

2008-09 (EEBO-TCP Phase 1).

ID [DLPS]

A61855

ID [STC]

Wing S6019

ID [STC]

ESTC R216963

ID [EEBO-CITATION]

99828674

ID [PROQUEST]

99828674

ID [VID]

33105

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(EEBO-TCP ; phase 1, no. A61855)

Transcribed from: (Early English Books Online ; image set 33105)

Images scanned from microfilm: (Early English books, 1641-1700 ; 1858:14)

Source

— The perillous and most unhappy voyages of John Struys Through Italy, Greece, Lifeland, Muscovia, Tartary, Media, Persia, East-India, Japan, and other places in Europe, Africa and Asia. Containing, I. Most accurate remarks and observations of the distinct qualities, religion, politie, customs, laws and properties of the inhabitants: II. A due description of the several cities, towns, forts, and places of trust, as to their site and strength, fortifications by nature, or art, &c. with other things worthy of note: and, III. An exact memorial of the most disastrous calamities which befell the author in those parts (viz) by ship-wrack, robberies, slavery, hunger, tortures, with other incommodities and hardships. To which are added 2 narrativs sent from Capt. D. Butler, relating to the taking in of Astrachan by the Cosacs. Illustrated with divers curious plates, first designed and taken from the life by the author himself. Rendered out of Nether-dutch by John Morrison·, Reysen door Moscovien, Tartarijen, Oost-Indien. English, Struys, Jan Janszoon, d. 1694., Morrison, John, 17th cent., Butler, David, Captain..

Extent

[16], 378, [10] p., [19] leaves of plates

printed for Samuel Smith, at the Princes Arms in S. Pauls Church-yard,. London :: MDCLXXXIII. [1683]. (Title page in red and black.) (A translation, by John Morrison, of: Struys, Jan Janszoon. Reysen door Moscovien, Tartarijen, Oost-Indien.) (With running title: The voyages of John Struys.) (With an index and table of contents.) (Reproduction of the original in the Bodleian Library.)

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