CHAP. I. How to make the Works about a House Regular.

A First and a Second part I thought ne­cessary, that I might discuss things in their order: for a House must be built before it be furnished. These who inclines not to read this may step foreward to the Second; perhaps there they will find Satisfaction, albeit others may be as desirous of this, who have any works to make.

My designe by contrivance, is to pre­vent the consequence of Inadvertancy, or the abrupt procedure in Inclosing and Planting.

2. Here in the entrance you may take a view of a House which I have Invented (See Fig. 1.) it is but little, yet very commodious & Cheap. There is only 4 Rooms on a Floor (you may have Closets within the wall, although not here demonstrated) all which enter off the Stayr (yet comunication betwixt) and the door is in the midle, & there is 10 steps up the first Story, (which is hall or dining Room, withdrawing Room, Bed-Chamber and Waiting-Room) and 10 Steps down to the lower Story, which is half under ground, and vaul­ted, this is Kitchen, Cellers and Ladners, &c. That above the dining Room story may be Bed-Chambers, library and with-draw­ing Room: and above these garrets for wardops. The Roof may be in three so as the midle part may be flat and covered with lead and the two sides more steep & flated: there is also a Stayr coming down [Page 2]from the hall without to the parterre of grass and gravel, on whose corners ar two Pavilions opening without the line of the House and sets off in place of Iammes; one of which may be a Store-house, and the other a Dove-house: the Stables, Baking and Brewing house ar on the opposite side, most conveniently placed, as hereafter I shall demonstrate.

3. Situate your House in a healthy Soyl, near to a fresh-spring, de­fended from the Impetuous-westwinds, northern colds and eastern blasts: and mind regularity, viz.

Make all the Buildings and Plantings ly so about the House, as that the House may be the Centre; all the Walks, Trees and Hedges running to the House.

As the Sun is the Centre of this World: as the Heart of the man is the Centre of the man: as the nose the Centre of the face: and as it is unseemly to see a man wanting a leg, ane arme &c. or his nose standing at one side the face, or not streight, or wanting a cheek, ane eye, ane eare, or with one (or all of them) great at one side and small on the other; Just so with the House-courts, Avenues, Gar­dens, Orchards, &c. where regularity or uniformity is not ob­served.

Therefore whatever you have on the one hand, make as much, and of the same forme and in the same place, on the other.

4. But if you would work right, beginne orderly, that is, find the central line by erecting a perpendicular on the midle of the House-front, to extend as farr both back and fore as requisite: hence you may draw parallels, Measure and Stake out your Avenues, Gardens, &c. as you please: ever minding to Measure alike at both sides of the Central line; How to find this Central line and to set off paral­lels is taught in Chap: 3: Sect: 1. and 2.

5. Yet for further Illustration take ane example by a draught of my own inventing (see fig: 2.) which if rightly understood may be applyed diversly and Improven elegantly.

It is here in a small Scale. the House is in the Centre, and at B, round by the House is Balesters, the Common Avenue is by N, [Page 3]and ends in a triangle, c, is the outer Court, and in the two tri­angular Courts marked with O, ar placed the office-house most notably (with their back part to the Court c,) opening without the line of the House: So dismounting at the gate of the Court (through which you may walk on foot to the House) let the Horses be taken about to the Stables by the Way the ending of the Avenuo leads. The two plots P, may be Pondes, the two with G, Cher­rie Gardens: a proper place also for goosberries, Currans, and Straberries. On the south side the House there is the pleasure or Flower-Garden called the Parterre, at the two sydes thereof Kit­chen-Gardens marked with K, then another Walk ending in a Se­micircle at S, Leading out to the Lawn or deer Park. The vistaes or walks of view that runs from the 4 Angles of the House ar very pleasant and convenient, and ar good Shelter; for which cause there ar two Thickets on the north side marked with t, on the south side are two such marked a, for Nurseries, and at E, and W, ar two Orchards. The whole is environed with two rowes of Forrest Trees without the wall: And if the paper were large I would shew you that the Park Wall should be parallel to these, that is, every where equidistant from the House its Centre at least, the whole an octagone near to a regular polygon consisting of equal sides & Angles. The walks with their fences (being run foreward from all the 4 sides and 4 Angles of the House till they touch at the midle of each side of the Park Wall,) serves in the Park for divisors: which divisors may be howthorn Hedges, and these in the Gardens holly, except the Court in the entrie and office-house Courts, me thinks walls are requi­site there. Also there should be ane ascent to the House, (if possi­ble) as at the first Court gate 2 steps, at the 2d 4 steps. &c. But Leaving it to let every man apply as his ground and ability will best admit, I come to speake of regularity, where confined.

6. But as to work or make regularity among confirments re­quires Ingenuity; so is there difficulty in teaching the same, because of the great variety of places: and being that I know not how to give precepts for it (except what is said above of the Centre and Central [Page 4]line) therefore I shall only instance in by example.

As where I was confined, to add what I will, but to diminish non. I viewed the works, and found several regular and Irregular things don on the one side the House, and nothing on the other answerable: therefore I Staked out the same on the other; still where I found an Irregular piece on the one side, I staked out the very same on the o­ther; and thus two Irregularities produced one uniformity.

Or where there had been much wrought for ane Avenue, but did not Front the House right, by reason of a precipice on the west hand. I got on the house top, viewed the ground immediatly, saw that I might turn my face towards the East and get stately Avenues with Gardens on each hand at pleasure, and the said precipice turned at my back.

But to draw any place first on Paper, as they stand, we see faults plainly, and how to help them accordingly: Therefore to assist you further in making your works orderly I shall shew you in the follow­ing Chap.

CHAP. II. How to draw by the Scale.

All draughts not drawn by the Scale at but suppositions, the Scale makes them stand directly on Paper as on ground, or would stand, if put upon it: therefore of singular use in contriving, you should have ane eye to the consequence of all your undertakings, lest you run Inadvertantly into a snare: for when you have determined or set­led on the contrivance, perhaps hath gone a great length in working the same, yet as you proceed (one thing making way for another) you may come to see a farr better way, and so to overturne most or all that is done, to get your new and better way accomplished; which oblidges you either to double pains & Charges, or otherwise, in sav­ing the same, to fit still with a dissatisfied mind; all which may be easi­ly and timely prevented by drawing & projecting on paper, as is said.

2. You may make as many Scales as you think will be needful, insomuch that when you have a draught at any time to draw, you have no more to do, but by Arithmetick find which of them Scales you must draw it by. Therefore make a Thinn broad rule 2 foot long Pear or Aple tree, Red of Plumtree, Planetree, Boxwood, or Brass which is best: put as many on bothsides as it will contain. I make most use of a Diagonal Scale, (see fig. 3.) its done by dividing the Inch into so many equal parts, as 8 in the Inch, 30 in the Inch, 100 or 200 in the Inch, the figure and Multiplication will informe you for 5 divisions, drawn the length of the Rule and 7 in the Inch; the other way is a Scale of 35 in the Inch, 5 times 7 is 35 and so furth. If your Rule be 2 foot, there may be 2 Lengthes on it, or as your lar­gest Compass may conveniently reach. You may also make some of the common Scales, that is, divide the Inch the ordinary way in a straight line into so many equal, parts (see fig. 4.) seeing the Diago­nals hath only such as Multiplication produceth.

3. If you be to draw a draught, but knows not how to take your measures from the Scale, then if you know the measures on ground take so many divisions (off the Scale with your Compass) as you had feet, ells, or falls (whatever you measure by) and set on the Paper: example, if you were to draw an orchard whose lenth is 680 ells by a Scale of 200 in the Inch (as the upper end of fig. 3.) you are to consi­der how many times 200 is in 680, that so many whole Inches you may take on your Compass, and the odds or fraction you may get therewith from the subdivided Inch: here if you set one foot of the Compass at 6 and reach the other to a, which 6 half Inches is 600, and 8 divisions foreward on the subdivided half Inch is 80; the same you may place on the Paper & draw accordingly. Example 2. by the other Scale of 100 in the Inch, if you would set the breadth of 23 foot-walk on Paper, here it is not one Inch, therefore you [...] take but such a part of one Inch, viz. Set the Compass from [...] end of the subdivided half Inch to o in the same, and thus [...] on the Compass; therefore do as before. You may perceive that the 23 di­visions on the Rule is the 3 from 20 foreward on the line betwixt 20 [Page 6]and 30 where the o is placed to make it plain. If your draught be so large that your Compass cannot reach its length, then you may di­vide the same by 2 , 3, or 4, &c. and take the product on the Com­pass and set alongst so many times as was your divisor. This is so plain that it needs no exemple.

4. But if you have a draught to draw on one or many sheets of Paper, and you desire to draw it as large as the Paper will bear, not to go off; Then take the length of your Paper in Inches, by which di­vide the length of your ground whether feet, ells, &c. and the quo­tient shall be the Scale you must draw it by; that is, an inche divided into so many equal parts. Example, if you have a plot 360 foot in length to draw on a sheet common Paper 16 Inches: but to make it, keep a little within the Paper, at each end call it 15 inches; so 360 the length of the ground divided by 15 the length of the Paper gives 24: therefore take a Scale of 24 in the inche, and draw it by the same. Example 2. the breadth of a field 864 Falls, I desire to draw it on the ⅛ of a sheet viz. 3 Inches. Divide 864 by 3, it gives 2.88, but this being too small, I take the ½ thereof viz. 144 and drawes it by the same, mynding that each division on my Paper is 2 Falls on ground.

5. Or if you had a draught, and knowes not what Scale it was drawen by, if you know what ground it contains, the work is first, to measure it by a supposed Scale, and secondly to find a mean pro­portional betwixt the true quantity of Acres and that quantity found by the supposed Scale. And thirdly by the golden Rule say, as the quantity of Acres found by the supposed Scale is to the mean proportional: so is the supposed scale to the true Scale. Example, if you have a plot or field of ground containing 72 Acres, and you measure it by a Scale of 18 Falls in the inche, and that makes but 40 ½ Acres, the question is what Scale was it drawn by? You will find the mean proportional betwixt 40.5. and 72 to be 54 (as in chap. 8. sect. 6.) and as 40.5. is to 54: so is 18 to 24. Thus it appears that the said plot was drawen by a Scale of 24 Falls in the inche.

Example 2. If you have a plot (containing 14 Acres 64 falls, and measuring it by a Scale of 40 in the inche makes 90 Acres, what Scale was it drawen by? You will find (as is said) the mean betwixt 14.4. and 90 to be 36: therefore as 90 the Acres found by the sup­posed Scale, is to 36 the mean proportional: so is 40 the supposed Scale to 16 the true Scale. This tells that it was drawen by a Scale of 16 in the Inche.

6. But if you have a draught, and knowes not what Scale it was drawn by nor what ground it containes, so as thereby you might find its Scale, & you desire to diminish or Enlarge the same on Paper, and yet that it may bear the same shape and proportion in every respect.

You may divide or multiply every particular line or part of it: as if you would have it ⅓ less, then divide each part by 3, and take one of these and set on the Paper. Or if you would have it twice as large, then double every part and portion of it, that is, take the double of each length and breadth on the Compass and set on the Paper and draw accordingly.

But if your draught be a Taliduce, Mapps, or the like, draw a squair by the outter edg thereof, and divide each side into so many equal parts, as you think fit, betwixt which draw parallel lines all through crossing from opposite sides, and notice what part of your draught falls within the precinct of each little squair, & so Copy it upon ano­ther Paper whether larger or lesser, as if you would have it one fifth less, take one fifth of the side of one of the little squairs, and therewith Lottrie or square your clean Paper. And likewayes take one fifth of length and breadth of each particular within each little squair, and the one fifth distance that such and such parts, creeks and angles are distant from any two of the angles of the same; and so place them accordingly in the lesser little squairs of your clean Paper.

7. When you designe to survey any plot of ground be careful in measuring the distances truly, and keep exact accompt thereof. You may make first a supposed figure on a Paper before you begin, that thereon you may write your measures, as you go along: as if it be a [Page 8]Hexagon, (see fig. 27.) draw a figure at random containing 6 sides, and having observed the meridian on the ground (which you may either find by the Compass or let the central line of the House its perpendiculars or parallels serve in lieu thereof) mark down such on your supposed figure: then let the two men with the chain begin at any angle; the foremost may have 10 small sticks to thrust in at every length of the chain, & let the hindermost man gather them up as he comes along; and when all up, give them to his assistant to begin again, as before, calling that, one change (still being carefull to go straight betwixt the two ends or extreams) and when yon come at the other end, compt how many changes, chaines, and links, as if the hedg c. d. be 70 Falls, write that down as in the figure, and so pro­ceed to the rest observing the same methode.

8. But albeit you measure round any plot or Field, yet you must know how to find the quantity of the angles, and protract the same: therefore I shall shew you the most exact of all others and mechani­cal too▪ Example by fig. 21. When you have measured the length of the 4 sides of this Trapezia (as is taught) then measure also betwixt any of the two opposite angles, as from a. to b. or from d. to a. and then you may protract it only with your Scale thus: draw a given line on the Paper as a. c. and from your Scale take so many divi­sions as was the lenth of the hedg a. c. and set thereon; and take the lenth betwixt c. and b. on your Compass; set one foot in c. and discribe an obscure Arch at b. also take the lenth of a. b. and setting one foot in a make another Arch to cross the former at b. then draw the line a. b. likewayes take the length of the side b. d. on the Com­pass, set one foot in b. discribe an obscure arch at d. and take the length c. d. & with one foot in c. cross the former at d. then draw c. d. and b. d. and so have you finished. By the same its easie to protract fig. 26. and 27 or any other, and this is my method of Surveying.

6. As for the dimensions of Circles, see Chap: 8. for having the Radius, you may easily find all things belonging thereunto.

As for straight lined figures, if you reduce them into Triangles, & measure the three sides of each, you may protract them, as is taught: [Page 9]thus Trigonometry or the doctrine of plane Triangles shewes, that having any three things in a Triangle, we may find the other three, either by the Scale or by Artificial Sines, Tangents, and Logari­thims: as having three sides, or three angles, or one Angle, and two sides, or two sides and one Angle, &c.

I will give you ane example by Fig: 20. suppose you would have the distance between B. and A. First measure off from B. (at any side most convenient) so many ells or falls, the more the better, I shall here supose 384 falls to C. (as will appeare by a Scale of 400 in the Inch) and in setting it off, notice what degrees that angle makes by your protector, then hold the same at C. with its Chord line on B. C. Turn about the Index till it poynt to A. notice what degrees it cutts, as supose 80. and write down: here you have the side B. C. 384. the angle A. B. C. 60. and the angle B. C. A. 80. (and by consequence the Angle B. A. C. 40. being its the complement to 180.) therefore go to your paper and draw a given line as A. B. then open the compass to the radius of your line of Chords, & therewith setting one foot in B. Discribe the Arch D. E. I. O. likwayes take 60 degrees with your Compass off the line of Chords, & set from D. to E. on that Arch line, and by the poynt. B. and E. draw the line B. E. C. so shall the Angle. A. B. C. contain 90. degrees. But if the Angle had fallen to be more than 90 degrees, then you may take it at twice (seeing the ordinary line of Chords has but 90) as if the Index had Cut 120. first take 90 upon the compass and set from. D. to I. then take 30 and set from. I. to O. which Angle. A. B. O. contains 120 degrees. But to return, as you set off the Angle at. B. so like­wayes at the Angle. C. make an Arch and set off 80 degrees there­on, by which poynt and C. Draw the line. C. A. lastly take the line B. A. on your compass (i.e. betwixt the poynt. B. and the poynt at. A. where the line. C. A. did cut the line. B. A.) and apply to the same Scale of 400 in the Inch, from whence you tooke the 384. and you will find the distance betwixt B. and A. to be 588 Falls: for,

If you would know how to find the superficial content of any plot of ground, or how to divide the same, or to lay out any quantity of land in what forme soever, &c. see Chap: 8. for, I hast to.

CHAP. III. How to make Avenues and Walkes.

ALL walkes should front the gates or entries, whether they lead to a house, Garden, Gate, Door, Park, Wood, or highway. When you have determined on the end of the walk as the door of the house, in the midle thereof on the line of the House-front set off a perpendicular, to find the central line as aforesaid, see Chap. 1. Sect. 4. and for your more exact performance thereof prepare this Instru­ment, viz. take two straight Rules about 3 or 4 foot long, joyn them Crosswayes in other, so that the 4 Angles where they cutt may be exact squairs; then at each end of these, joyn a piece Rule standing up about 4 or 5 Inches, and in the exact midle of each of these pieces make a slit up and down, and in the midle of these slits a piece small silk threed; these being straight and perpend: up are excellent to view by. Place this cross on the head of the three footed Staff, hing a Plumb whereby you may plant it Horizontale upon occasion: on this you may also place your protector with the box and needle, when you go to surveying, for every one has not a plane Table.

As to the Avenue, set one side of your cross parallel to the given line (the House-wall) this you may do with most ease, by taking one end thereof within the door till the side touch the door cheeks, and you may also view cross by the side-wall backsight and foresight, till it stand exactly Parellel thereto: then turne, and standing within the door, view straight out by the silk threeds, and so direct one to drive stakes all along so farr as you can see, in a straight and perpend: line. You may also find this perpendicular central line, thô Walls, Hedges, Houses, Trees &c. obstruct, if you can see over them out at any Window or off the Battlement if there be any, otherwayes recurre to the Rules in Sect. 3. and 4.

And as by this Instrument you may raise any perpendicular, so by the same you may let perpend fall: for you may alter it hither and thither upon the given line, till it direct to the angle or point as­signed.

2. The mid or central line of your Avenue being found out you must place your cross thereon, and thereby set off the half breadth thereof at each side: do this at both ends and midle, that they be exactly Parallel; and therein drive stakes almost to the head. And when you come to marke out for the Trees, or to plant them, set a straight pole at each driven stake, for your direction in going straight betwixt the same.

If the length of the walke be confin'd, divide it by the distance you mynd to plant at; and if there be any odd, add or substract till all the distances be equal: which distance you must take on a chain (for a line will reach and shrink) and begin at one end, and go straight to the other, thrusting in a small stake at each length; minding to let both rowes go on squair together, that is, one on each side and viewing will find the other two, if there be sower rowes, see the Avenues fig. 2.

And though the ground be unevenly, yet you must hold the chain level: wherefore you may have a squair & Plumb fixed at your pole or staff for your more exact performance thereof.

When you have staked out the ground, prepare the rounding string viz. a piece line doubled and tyed near the point of a stick, and so put the double on the stakes where the Trees must stand, and streatching the same, make a scratch with the point of the stick round; and with a spade follow that Compass and make the hole. See the second part of this Treatise, where there be directions how to prepare the ground and plant.

If you observe what is said, you may stake out any kind of walk, having one line found; wherefore I shall shew you how to find out one line whatever obstruct.

3. As first, suppose you would run a line or walke through a wood: when you have concluded on the end thereof, there erect a perpendicular as above, and run it as farr into the wood as you can; then at each side thereof set off a Parallel line two or three foot from the central line, or half the breadth of the intended walk: so shall you have three Parallel lines running on in straight lines to­gether. And where any one runns on a tree, run foreward the other two, and set it off again (when past the Tree) as it was Parallel to its fellowes, and so proceed till you be through the wood, or thic­kets, still marking the Trees that falls in the intervall to be cut.

A second way is by means of Lanthornes with burning Candles, in a calm night when dark hanged on stakes, you standing in the wood may plant stakes at pleasure, let the Candles furthest from you be highest, and remove foreward the lights as need requires.

4. But if both ends of your walk be determined, and you cannot see betwixt, by reason of Lengthes, Hills, Woods, Houses, or some such obstruction, in such a case let two having each a pole go to the midle or to such a place betwixt where they may (by looking backsight and foresight) perceive the two extreams, (where should be a pole with white Paper on the slip boards to make the better ap­pearance) turn your faces towards other, standing at a large distance asunder, but so as you may both see your respective objects. And let A direct B to set the pole in line with his and that at the North­end▪ and B direct A to hold in line with his and that at the South­end: [Page 13]so each directing other by words or Signes; let both alter to and fro, till they have their desires at once; then shall these two and the extreams be all four in a straight line, whereby you may set as many as you please. This way I found out by experiment, and thinks it worthy a place amongst the Mathematicks.

But if you cannot see the two ends, when standing in the midle; although the Poles be never so high, then if it be Wood or Hedges, the foresaid Lanthrons and Candles will do the business.

But if the obstructions be Hills, Walls, or Houses, for which you cannot see, standing in the midle, as a-foresaid, neither by Lan­throns, nor yet by high Poles; then do by Parallels thus: set off a parallel line so farr, as that it may run quyt beyond the obstruction, (on the side most convenient) then set in the parallel again at con­venient places; so shall both agree, and as will appear when the ob­struction is removed.

But if none of these will do, run a line over by guess, and if it miss (as no wonder) take notice of your Errour at the end, by letting a perpendicular fall on the determined poynt (by means of the squair or cross) and the measure betwixt finds out the Errour: then measure the length of your intended walk or line, aforesaid; and at the quarter thereof, set off the ¼ of your Errour: At the midle the ½ and at the ¾ of the length, set off the ¾ of your Errour; this will lead you straight upon your purpose.

Trigonometry will also solve this, if you could work exactly: for here you have two sides and one angle; see the last Chap. Sect. 9.

5. And if you have a given line and desires to set of a Parallel there­from, but cannot measure off at both ends as is needfull, there being, Trees, Waters, Hills, Walls or Houses, obstructing, you may measure, squair or Perpendicular off at any part of the given line (that is most convenient) so far as you mind to go with your parallel; at, or upon which point erect another Perpendicular to run back­sight [Page 14]and foresight; the which shall be exactly parallel to the given line, as was required.

6. Having given some directions for staking out walks for Plan­ting, yet your Avenues and Walks must end in some figure or ano­ther, whether Triangular, Circular, Ovall, &c. For Coaches and Carts to turn in, as also where Walks meets, or Cross other, its requisite that there be some figure for the same reason.

How Avenues may end in Semicircles and Triangles, see fig: 2. and if it end in a Semicircle, it may begin with the same or rather (if the ground will suffer) it should begin with a whole circle having sower opposite opens the breadth of the walk: If it end with a Tri­angle, it may begin so likwayes, but rather with a squait (the en­dings Integer) whose entries or opens must be in its Angles. And also where the Walkes meets or Cross, I have a little figure or O­pen, see fig: 2. And yet the Trees in the whole draught every way lineal, except in the segment of a Circle, where they deviat a little. The figures should be at least three times the breadth of the walk, but so as the ground will admit; let not the Trees in the figure stand much above half the distance of these in the walke, but divide equally make the breadth of the walk in proportion to its length: I think an Ave­nue a mile in length may be 40 ells in breadth, see Chap: 5. sect: 2. neither short Broad nor long narrow walkes are handsome, except in case of walkes of Shade, & also of Avenues where the Front of the house, Jammes, courts, or pavilions ar to be observed: for the breadth of the court should be at least the whole length of the House-front; & if two Jammes the midle walke of the Avenue may be the breadth be­twixt, and the side-walkes the breadth of the Jammes; or the mid walk the breadth of the whole Front, & the side walkes the breadth of the pavilions, which ar on the corners of the Court; or divide the House Front in three, making the midle walke the just breadth of both the side ones: so shall they be every way lineall, but do not mask a fine Front nor veyle a pleasant prospect. The length of the Avenue, it should run so farr as (when we stand at the house) we may lose sight of the farr end, if possible. When it runs over a Brae, then [Page 15]to the eye it appears Infinitum, and where that cannot be had, it doth very well where the sight terminates in a grove or circle of Firrs.

7. The distance of Trees is sometimes according to the quality of the ground, or Trees to be planted, somtimes to the number of Rowes, or as the figure to be planted will best admit. If a good Soyl, plant at the wider distance; if 4 Rowes, as an Avenue, Plant at 5.6.7. or 8 ells distance; if 2 single rowes at 4.5. or 6 ells; if circular figures or the like at 2, 3 or 4 ells, or as the figure is in small­ness or greatness, and Plant so as they may shew the figure well.

Some Trees requires wider distance than others, these that grow greatest, by consequence must have the largest disrance, see the next Chap: sect: 10.

Note, that you Intermix not great Trees and small Trees in Plan­ting, neither quick-growers and flow-growers: for I observe a kind of Emulation amongst them.

For Inclosures See part 2. Chap: 4.

CHAP. IIII. How to Plant Thickets and Orchards.

AS the ground where you Plant must be Inclosed, so must the Trees stand some distance off the fence: if it be a wall where­on ar Wall-Trees, let the standards be at least one of their own dis­tances from the same, & if you designe fine walks round by the wall, Plant the Row next thereunto with Dwarff-Trees or some low Hedge, and the Trees half a distance off such; if the inclosure be a Hedge. observe the same Rule. Also let the Trees be Parallel to the Inclosure: but every Plot will not suffer to be Planted every way lineal and stand Parallel to the Inclosure too; therefore it will be necessary first to Inquire a little what figures they be that may [Page 16]thus be Planted, (a thing I never saw Inquired) And secondly how to plant those that will not admit of this order, and lastly how to plant the several wayes.

2. The figures that may be planted every way in row ar many, yet for Brevities sake I shall mention but some as oblong, & geometrical squairs (see fig: 5.6.7.8.9.) Rhombus (see fig: 10.) Rhomboïdes (see fig. 11.) Oxigone or Equilateral Triangle (see fig: 12.) Orthy­gone or right Angled Triangle (see fig: 13.) Ambligone or Tri­angle with one obtuse and two Acute Angles, (see fig: 14.) a sort of Trapezia, (see fig: 15.) Hexagone, (see fig: 16.) Octagone (as the whole fig: 2.) these regular Polygones ar the nearest way for Plan­ting a Circle.

Many more figures there be both Regular and Irregular that will admit of this order, but these may suffice for Illustration. As for these that will not, you may Plant them Parallel, to as many sides as you can, and let the rest, fall as they will.

3. Now as to the several wayes so farr as I know, there is but three principal wayes of Planting, every way lineal (although there be more built thereon) viz. Squair, Rhombus, and Triangle: In the first, three of them makes a right Triangle, and sower of them discribes a Circle; (see Fig: 5.) In the second, three of them makes a triacute Triangle, and sower of them discribes an Elipsis (see fig: 6.) note, that this way will admit of Variation. In the third, three of them makes an equilateral Triangle, and sower of them discribes an Ovall, (See Fig: 7.) And seven of them makes a Circle with a Centre, See Fig: 17.

4. The manner of Planting the first, which is the common way is exemplified in Fig: 5. take the length of one side, and divide by the distance you mind to plant at, and the product tells how many, and whats over, if there be any, you may proportion as before. Then with your determined distance on a chain, begin at a Corner and go round the out-line exactly, where the outter row must stand, thrusting in a stake at every length; these being in straight line and at equall distances, also straight bodyed and perpendicular up. The way is thus: One must stand at W. and view to E. another at S. [Page 17]and view to N. Causing a thrid set a Stake in line with both as at L. So removing from Stake to Stake (viewing still to the opposite) di­rect the thrid by words or signes till his Stake be in line with both: thus proceed till all the plot be Staked out. See Fig. 5. The way the Trees will stand when Planted.

But if the ground be unevenly, cause the Stake-setter, hold up a long and straight pole (with a plumb Rule for holding it perpend:) and when he removes, to thrust a stake exactly where the pole stood: but if the pole will not do, let the viewers mount them on three foot­ed or standing leathers; and if that will not do, betake to the Rule, mentioned in the last Chap, for taking a line over a Hill, where both ends ar confined, as I have done, in the like case.

But because some scarcely knowes signes, the Stake-setter must be told that when the viewer stands his face northwards and waves the right hand Eastward, that he must go a little cast with his Pole, and when he waves the left, then westwards, when both his hands at once east or west, then he must hold the head of the Pole (if he have no plumb for his direction in this) but when the viewer moves both Hands , or Hat, up and down, then the Stake-setter must fix there.

5. If you Plant the second way in a squair, the out-line round is not equal distances thô the opposites side are, here in this example one side is about 12 and one half ells distance, and the other 15. and the viewing being Angular, and not from opposite sides makes the Trees stand about 10 and one half ells.

But if you will Plant Rombusoical, as is designed, then its don by the equal division of its fower sides, and by viewing to its opposits, as the Rombus A. B. C. D. Within Fig: 6. Doth represent; for though its Angles be not squair nor equal, yet its sides must be e­qual, and Angles opposite: and here it may be varyed, as is said ac­cording to the shape of the ground, by streatching longer or opening it wider. A. C. is its breadth and D. B. its length. Or you may also plant by the Romboides, as I have done, D. A. E. F. & consequently many more figures may be planted thereby as well as these may be, [Page 18]varyed or altered, and yet all continue in this Cyrus order.

6. In the 3d way take an example in Fig: 7. where the length of one side must be divided by the determined distance viz. the distan­ce off the fence being substracted, the length of the side A. B. is 119 and I designe to plant at 8 and ane half ells: therefore I divide 119 by 8.5. decimally, the product is 14 distances; then there will be 15 rowes; here one side is Staked out, whereby you may Plant the whole plot thus: take two distances on the chain, that is, hold one end exactly at A. And the other at C. Again with that measure on the Chain, hold one end at the first Stake (viz: A.) And the other at the second (viz: L.) cause a thrid take the chain by the exact midle, and (holding it stiff) thrust in a straight stake at the Angle of the Chain (viz : N.) so those three makes an equilateral Triangle; then remove, holding one end at the second Stake (viz: L.) And the other at the thrid viz. C. Streatch the Chain and thrust in a Stake at its Angle or midle as before. Thus you may proceed from Stake to Stake till that row be Planted: and so on from row to Row till the whole Plot be Staked out, minding to set the Stakes straight and Per­pendicular, considering their thickness also; in all which if you be not very exact, ye cannot avoyd error before you come at the other side. Therefore I shall shew you another way of my own Inventing, which is more sure and exact & less paines, viz: Let first that one side be marked out, as before, and having set two or three Stakes of the se­cond row, as is just now taught; then upon two, hold to the Chain, and Plant another Stake to begin a thrid row; (as at D.) then take the exact distance betwixt L. and D. On the Chain, and therewith Stake out the side B. R. And because there is one Odd Row, take the exact half of that distance (by doubling the Chain) & set from R. to L. then with the whole length go betwixt B. L. thrusting in a Stake at each length, and here you shall find three distances and the half that was set off at the Angle R. Thus two sides ar Staked out, and he that can do this, can also Stake out the other two, seeing the opposite sides are answerable: for as A. B. is to H. L. so is L. B. unto H. A.

When the plot is staked out round, let one stand at X, and view [Page 19]to B. & another at O. and view to R. cause a third, set a stake in line with both, as at Q. Thus you may proceed from stake to stake, till all the plot be marked out, still minding the way of your viewing.

A Plot will contain more Trees this way, than any other exam­ple. The two Plots, fig. 5. and 7. are both alike in shape and quantity, each containing one Acre, 2 Roods, 16 Falls , 30 Ells: and fig. 7. holds 11 Trees more than fig. 5. planted at one and the same distance.

7. A fourth way of planting, is that which I ordinarly use in thickets: (see fig. 8.) for when the Trees growes large, every other row (suppose the short ones) may be taken out, that the rest may have freedom, and so be benifited by Sun and Air, where one Fruit-tree will bear more than sower crouded on others, and yet continue in as good order; and in part answers some complaining while their Orchards are young, as having few Fruit, seeing the more Trees there be while such, the more fruit to be expected, there­fore when their branches begin to meet, remove them as is said, lop and plant by your Hedges, I mean by the divisors of your Corn Land, and they being now great, are able to defend themselves. Its also applicable to Forrest-trees seeing while they are young, they afford little Shelter, except more than ordinary thick, and yet when they grow large cannot prosper to that stately magnitude, unlelss the same cure be used, viz. the removal of each second row, which may be effectually planted about the Bordures of your Corn Land, Medow and Pasture, who now needs no fence save a few thorns hanged about to keep the Cattle from Rubbing, which thornes they are now well able to bear, albeit small Trees are not: for the winds take great hold on such. Moreover in Orchards, if the short Rowes be Cherries and Plumes, they not being long lived, will be past their best e'r the Aples and Pears (which may be in the long rowes) require their Room from them.

As to the methode you must mark out the plot round about, as in my first, and view from Angle to Angle of each Geometrical squair; [Page 20]but then the distance of the outter Row about, must be more than in the first way, otherwise the Trees will stand much nearer. As 7. is to 5. so is the distance of the outter row about to the distance of the Trees through the Plot.

Or you may plant it by viewing from opposite sides, as in my first way, only you must plant the out-line of stakes round about, at half the former distance, and let the Stake-setter pass by every other distance (except you mean to plant Goosberries, and Curran-Standards in these blanks, and then the Trees and Shrubs together makes it Intirely one with the first way,) and now the proportion is, as 7 is to 10: so is the distance of the outter row about, to the distance of the Trees; or as 10 is to 7: so the distance of the Trees to the distance of the outter row about. Such proportion doth the side, and diagonal of a Geometrical squair, bear the one unto the other exact enough for our purpose.

8. The fifth way, and very notable, where Orchard and Kitchen Garden are all one, or where you have Corn or Grass amongst your Trees, or Trees (whither barren or Fruit) among your Corn or Grass, (see fig. 9.)

If for Kitchen Garden, divide it in Ridges, making the Tables or Pathes in the midle of the widest Intervall, and then subdivide so as the Trees may fall in the midle of the Beds, or Bordures. If for Corn-land, the ridg must be between each row, plowed within sower foot on each side the rowes or ranges of Trees: which eight foot Bordures must be delved each spring; or if stiff clay, at both equinoxes, and no vegitable suffered to grow thereon. For a man or two with large and handsome hawes 10 Inches broad, will quickly go through them in Summer, and cut the weeds at their first peeping: this would certainly be a great Improvement; and whither you ap­ply to Corn or Grass, Fruit or Forrest-trees, I would advise you to keep them thus clean of weeds, and if ever you repent it, blame me.

9. A sixt way of planting Trees is, to make all the walkes or In­tervalls open from the House proportionally, so as when you [Page 21]stand at the House, the walkes may appear all of an equal beadth to the eye, this would suit well with my contrivance of the House, being like the Sun sending forth his beams.

10. The distance of Trees in Thickets and Orchards, is either according to the quality of the ground, Trees to be planted, or methode of planting.

If a good and deep soil, there Trees will live long and grow great and requires a large distance: Apples planted the 1^st., 2^d., and 3^d., way may be from 8 to 10 ells distance: Pears so planted at 10 or 12 Ells, and of these planted the 4^th. way may be at the least distance mentioned, because they will stand near the greatest when every second is removed; but if planted the 5^th. way they may be from 16 to 20 Ells one way, and from 8 to 10 the other: Cherries and Plumes from 5 to 7 Ells being planted the 1^st., 2^d., 3^d., or 4^th. way; as for the distance of dwarfs and Wall-trees, see the next Chap. Sect. 5.

At the Pears distance plant Oak, Elm, Ash, Plan, Beach, Wallnut, Chesnut; at the Aples distance plant Geens, Service, Lines, Poplars; at the distance of Plum and Cherrie plant Maple, Hornbeam, Hassell, Birch, Laburnum, Aspen, Asder, Wil­lowes, Pin, Firr, Yew. And see the last Chap. Sect. 7. for more directions.

If the ground be level, plant such Trees as grow lowest, at the South-side, and still higher by degrees towards the North, that the talest and strongest may be on the North-side; so shall the Nor­thren blasts be guarded off, and the Sun-beames the better received in amongst them. If the ground be not level, plant such as grow low, on the highest ground, and the contrary. And set alwayes the crooked or leaning side, towards the Southwest; whence comes the greatest winds, which in few years will make them the more erect: for you may see that all Trees that are not well, shelte­red from these Westerly winds, leans or declines therefrom.

When the ground is all marked out with stakes, put on the roun­dig string, and make the holes. See the last Chap. Sect. 7. I use [Page 22]not to make them less than 6 foot Diameter for ordinary Trees, and you may suffer the outter row of stakes to stand, till you plant the rest that you may view thereby.

How to order the ground, and plant, see the second part of this Book; and for Inclosures see the same second part, Chap. 4.

CHAP. V. How to make the Kitchen Garden.

THE Kitchen-Garden is the best of all Gardens, but to re­turne. In all Gardens it is ordinary first to make a Bordure at the Wall. Secondly a walke. And thridly a Bordure on the other side thereof; here, the walke with a Bordure on each side of it, going round the whole plot, Parallel to the Wall: but if your ground be large enough, I bid you make a distance Intercept be­twixt the walk and the Wall. Its also ordinary to divide the Garden into four plots, by two walkes crossing from side to side: but I am not for any cross walkes in Gardens; yet if you would have more than one, (which divides the whole into two parts) then make them all one way through the plot leading to the House, and equi­distant from the midle, still making the gates, doors or entries Front the walkes.

In your Kitchen-plots, & in Nurseries for Trees, plant no Trees through the ground: for when they grow up, they cover and choak the ground so, that you will be necessitate to seek for another. Therefore, make only three Bordures next and Parallel to the walkes round on each hand: plant the first or that next the walke on both sides, with a holly Hedg, the second with Goosberries and currans, the thrid with dwarff Trees, the ground all open and void within for Kitchen-herbes and Roots; which must be orderly [Page 23]divided into ridges; and these again divided into Beds, Furrowes, and Drills for your more orderly and convenient planting and sow­ing. As for the proportion note that.

2. The walkes must be in breadth according to their length viz. 1000 foot long, 30 foot broad, 500 foot long, 20 foot broad, 250 in length, 15 in breadth, 100 foot long, 10 foot broad.

The Bordures 6 foot broad, the Tables or Pathes betwixt the Bordures 2 foot broad, and these betwixt the level-Ridges (where­in the ground is divided) 3 foot broad, the Beds 6 foot broad with foot and half furrowes; you may make 7 of them Beds in each Ridg, and the whole length of the plot all Running from the House: but if your ground be small you may make your Bordures and Beds nar­rower, yet still let the whole plot, Ridges, Bordures, and Beds be equally divided, and their Areas or Edges three Inches higher than the furrows or pathes, and so much higher than the side of walkes, as the middle of the walk is higher than its sides, all hand­somly clapt up with the Rakehead, by a line: (and the like order you may observe in your seminaries and Nurseries of Trees) then plant and sow by lines and Drills, both for beauty and conve­niency.

When you would do this divide the Bed, Bordure or Ridg at both ends into so many equal parts: (by help of the long Rule and small sticks) then streatch on the line from end to end by these sticks, and with the corner of the Rule make a marke by the line, and therein set your Herbes and Plants; and for setting of seeds, measure out, and streatch on the line as before, and with the setting stick make the holes by the line (not too deep) and therein put the seeds. And if you sow in drills, make a scratch or little ebb gutter with the point of the stick by the line, and therein sow. If the rowes be two foot distance, let the first be one foot within the edg; if 6 Inches sundry make them 3 Inches off the edge, and so proportionally. Note, that I have told the distances of each sort Kitchen horbes and Fruits part 2. Chap. 6. where is intended 6 foot broad beds, but where they are less, there must be fewer rowes.

3. The Kitchen Garden may be placed, its half on each side the House and Courts, and when you plant or sow, place every spe­cies by themselves (except such mixture as is mentioned part 2. Chap. 1. Sect. 3.) and where you have not a whole Ridge or at least a bed of a kind, you may compleat them with such as are nearest of growth and continuance: also plant them of long last, and them that must be yearly renewed severally, each in Ridges or beds by themselves orderly; the order is to make every sort oppose it self. Example if you plant a Ridge of Artichocks on the one hand, plant another at the same place on the other: and still where you have perennialls on the one side, set the same sort at the same place on the other; and so of Annualls. In short, what ever you have on the one side, you should have the same in every circumstance on the other. Perennialls are such plants as continues many years in the ground, Annualls are such as usually dy immediatly after once they bear seed, and that is usually (thô not universally) the first or se­cond year.

4. As for physical plot you may have them in that ridge of the Kitchen Garden next the Bordures: and if you will to have no other pleasure Garden, you may have Flowers there, and on the Bor­dures next the walkes also: and that ridge or Intervall betwixt the walke and Wall will be excellent for all early, rare and tender plants. You may rill your Physick Herbes in Tribes and Kindreds, plan­ting every Tribe by themselves, and you may also place one of each kind in the Alphabetical order.

5. How to order hedges, see part 2. Chap. 4. as for Walls, Brick is best, next is Stone and Lime; 4 Ells is low enough, 5 or 6 if you please: but if you would make the South-looking Wall semicircles in it, that would conduce much to the advantadge of the Fruit, as well as Hot-beds under it; The distance of Wall-trees will Informe you what quantity to make them, as for example 15 foot is the distance of Cherries and Plumes, (except such as the May cherrie which being Dwarfish requires less) 18 foot for Apri­coks & Peaches, 20 foot for Aples, 24 for Pears. Therefore if you [Page 25]make the semicircumference 18 foot for Apricoks and Peaches, (you may plant two Dwarff Cherries therein) then 36 is the whole Perifery, and as 22 is to 7: so is 36 the Perifery to 11½ fere the Diameter; and having the Diameter you may easily make any part of the Circle: and let the plain or straight Wall betwixt each semicircle be just one Trees distance likewayes.

And also in straight Walls divide equally, and plant non in the Corners, measure first off 6 foot on each side the gates or doors for Honisuckles, Jasmines, &c. And whatever be the distance of your Trees, set them half therefrom, as also from the Corners, except where you make all their heads ply one way; (as on a low Wall) such may stand three foot off the Corners, or Honisuckles they lean from, and a whole distance off these they lean towards. You may plant a Goosberrie and curran in the intervalls of your Wall-trees while young, & when the Trees approach, remove them. Let the Roots of your Wall-trees stand near a foot from the Wall with their heads inclining towards the same. Wall-trees in Or­chards (whose Standards are in the Quincunx) should stand opposite to the mid intervall of the Standards.

The distance of Dwarff Standards is 16 foot where there is but one row, and in following this Rule of the three Bordures, they will stand just 16 foot off the Hedg, observing to plant in the midle of the Bordures. The distance of Goosberries and currans 6 foot. But in all your plantings and sowings divide the ground so as each kind may stand & grow equally.

To conclude, these three Bordures going round at each side of the walkes handsomly made up and planted, as aforesaid, will se­cure the ground within from hurtful winds and colds, and make people keep the walkes (handsome pale doors being on the entries of the Hedges) so as they may neither wrong you nor themselves. Also the Hedge, Dwarff Standards, Shrubs, and Wall-trees being all well prun'd and plyed, with the Bordures and walkes clean and or­derly kept, will make it look like a Garden of pleasure, and hide all the Ruggedness that happeneth in Kitchen-ground by delving, dunging, turning and overturning throughout the year.

CHAP. VI. How to make the pleasure-garden, &c.

PLeasure-Gardens useth to be divided into walkes and plots, with a Bordure round each plot, and at the corner of each, may be a holly or some such train'd up, some Pyramidal, others Spheri­cal, the Trees and Shrubs at the Wall well plyed and prun'd, the Green thereon cut in several Figures, the walkes layed with Gra­vel, and the plots within with Grass, (in several places whereof may be Flower pots) the Bordures boxed, and planted with variety of Fine Flowers orderly Intermixt, Weeded, Mow'd, Rolled, and kept all clean and handsome.

Plain draughts at only in use, and most preferable; that which I esteem is plain straight Bordures and Pathes running all one way, that is, from the House with one walke parting it in the midle, leading to the House door: and if the ground be large, you may make one round by the Wall too, as the pleasure-Garden of fig. 1. Let the Bordures and Pathes be both of a breadth, (viz. 6 foot) box the Bordures, and plant them with Flowers, lay the pathes as well as the walkes with Gravel, plant the Walls with Fruit and Flower-bearing Trees variously.

Outter Courts hath only one Bordure at the Wall, planted with Laurels and other Greens, one Pathed or Brick-walk in the midle, leading to the midle of the House-front with along Grass plot on each hand.

2. The Bordures of your Kitchen-Garden round by the walkes may be boxed with Thyme, Lavendar, Hysop, Rue, &c. the next with Parsly, Strawberries, Violets, July-flowers, &c. Cherrie-gardens and Physick-gardens with Sweet-brier often cut, or Box cut three times Per annum as April, June, August, min­ding to cut their Roots at the inside every second year, that they ex­haust no the strength or nourishment of the Flowers or Herbes. But [Page 27]that which I preferre for Flower-Gardens above all, is Dwarff-Juniper raised from the seed and Planted thus, When the ground is levelled, measure out the Bordures, (but raise them not above the walkes, except you minde to lay gravel) streatch a line and with the edge of the Rule mark alongst thereby, and therein set the young sets of Box or the young Plants of Juniper at 2 years grouth; then prepare the Bordures by delving in consum'd dung of Cowes and Sheep, covering on a little lime topt with a little sand, to ly all sum­mer, kept clean from by hawing. At the beginning of winter delve and mix together, to ly all winter un-Raked, and at the Spring redelve, stirr and mix it throughly, and train and plant your Flow­ers and other Plants in their seasons. See Part 2. Chap: 7.

3. In making the walkes in any Gardens, first level up the Bor­dures at its sides, secondly drive a Row of Stakes in the midle of the walke, and level them accordingly i. e. streatch line cross the walke betwixt the two level Bordures, and marke where it hits the Stake in the midle of the walke; do this at both ends, and viewing be­twixt, will levell the rest, see the next Chap: of levelling. But you may mind, that the walk must rise a little in the midle, and yet the midle of the walke, and top of the Boxing of the Bordure must be level, i.e. The Boxings so much above the side of the walk, as the midle of the walke is above its sides. Where your Boxing is timber or Stone, fill up the bordure of Earth to the top thereof, but where your Boxing is of box-juniper or the like, the Earth within the bor­dure and edg of the walks and pathes without, must be equal. As for the rise or swell that walkes has which makes them Segmenta Circuli, grass or brick walkes may have for 30 foot broad 6 Inches rise, for 20 foot 4 Inches, 10 foot 2 Inches; and let gravel have an Inch more proportionally: and it agrees with the rule of proport: in Arithmetick, as 20 is to 4: so is 30 to 6. If gravell or brick walkes or pathes ly by the side of grass, make the grass half Inche higher than such. If the walke be Grass, make 2 foot Tables, or pathes of gravel betwixt it and the Bordure.

4. To lay grass, first level the ground, whither walke or plot; and its the better to ly a year so made up, before you lay the turff; because it may be levelled up again, if it sink unto holes: If it ly wet, bottome with Stones and Rubish; and if the Earth be fat, take it out, and put in sand; however lay a foot thick sand immediatly un­der the Truff: then by the squair streatch lines, Ritt with the Ritting Iron (which is an half round put into the end of a crooked stick) & raise the Turff with the Turff-Spade, (which is broad mouthed, otherwise all one with the Husbandmens breast-Turffing-spade) let the Turff be of equal thickness, near Inch and half thick, a foot and half broad, and as much in length, lay their green sides toge­ther, when you put them in the cart, but do not Roll them when brought home, lay them all even and closs; Feeling each parti­cular Turff with your foot, so as you may discern any Inequallity, to be helped Immediatly, in laying still, beating every two three rowes of turff while moist, with the Timber beatters, and when the the whole is layed, and well beat, Roll well with the Stone-Roller, which should be as big as a hogsehead, The Spring and Autumne is the best time. And if you mind to keep a good pile of Grass, suffer it never to grow Inch long: beat, mow, and Roll of­ten, especially in the mornings and moist weather.

5, But if you would lay the hard tile or brick walkes, prepare as for Grass, minding it wants the breadth of the brick of the true hight: for you must set them all on their edg closs by other on a bed of lime, laying the side, each other Row crossing the ends of the other, and place one in the midle of the walkes that both sides may be Regular.

6. To lay gravel, cleanse first the bottomes of the walkes of fat Earth, and Root weeds, and bottom it with Stones; and lay over that about half a foot of clean round gravel, and about three Inches top gravel of equal greatness which may be like beans and pease: you must make it thus equal by sifting, and so Rake, Tred, and beat; and when compleatly levelled, beart well with the Timber beaters, while moist, then Roll soundly with the Timber-Roller, [Page 29]and afterwards with the Stone-Roller, especially in Rain, for which the spring and Autumn is best; but if dry weather, you must dash water one the Roller (continually in Rolling) with the watering pott, and if you ar forced to use Sea or water sand, you may beat some good clay to dust and mix with such, before you lay it; weed, and Roll frequently.

7. For the orderly planting of flowers there may be three wayes, as first in the Bordures of pleasure Gardens or Courts, plant 5 rowes in the bordure, and Intermixe them orderly i. e. divide and plant every sundry sort through the whole Garden at equal distan­ces, and not only so but every sundry colour thereof also; let ne­ver two of a kind nor two of a colour stand together, without o­ther kinds and colours Interveening, so as there may not be two, three of a kind or Colour at one end, Bordure, Plot or Place, and non thereof through the rest, but universally and ornamentally In­termixt, and when you find a breach by some being past the flower, you may have various Annual Flowers sowen in potts, ready to plunge into the vacancies of the Bordures for continuing this beauty.

Secondly, in my sort of flower Gardens which is Bordures and pathes running all one way viz: from the House, Plant 5 rowes and intermix them, not as in the last way, but set 5 rowes of each kind cross the Bordure, so as 25 of each sort may stand in a Geo­metrical squair. As if you set a squair of Tulips, a squair of Boars­ears a squair of Crocuses, a squair of July Flowers, a squair of Anemonies, and a squair of Couslips: and so a squair of Tulips, another of Boars Ears, &c: Through that Bordure Inter­mixing the Colours of each sort, then may you make the next Bor­dure so Intermixt, but differing: minding that as you Intermix the Bulbous and Fibrous in each Bordure, so must they be also in the crossing, that the squair of Fibrous in this may oppose the squair of Bulbous in the next, and likewayes whatever Bordure such sorts at in, on the one side of the walke, set the very same in the Bordure equidistant from the walke on the other side, that the whole may [Page 30]be Regular and uniformely Intermixt all the year, looking from all sides, ends or Angles.

Thridly in nurseries of Beds and Ridges, Plant every kind in thickets by themselves, and Annualls and perennialls by them­selves (except only that you Intermix their Coloures) that is, make a whole Bed or Ridg of each kind, 6 Rowes in the Bed, the Dwar­fish may be 8 Rowes: thus every thicket of them Flowering in their own order, will have a great shew, and at a great distance; and here also observe uniformity, that is, alike on each hand, see the last Chap: sect: 3. For if you have a Ridg or Bed of July-flow­ers or the like on the one side, Plant another thereof at the same place on the other, &c.

And because Flowers must be removed some in one, two, or three years, and the Earth renued or enriched, and properly prepa­red, else they degenerate; (because in long time they exhaust the substance of the ground, at least that part appropriate to them) there­fore you have a good conveniency for effectuating the same by these last two models perscribed: for often you will have some Beds or squairs where your Annualls stood, to replant your Tulips, Ane­monies or the like unto, and so another sort where these stood, and your Annualls again where this last was; and because here you remove a whole Bed or squair of a kind at once, you may very conveniently prepare, Delve, Stir, Beat, sift and mix it throughly with the soyl proper (a thing most necessary) and this you could not well do, where they ar scattred as in the first way. See the Rules mentioned Part 2. Chap. 1. Sect. 10. and Chap. 7.

As to Terrase walkes, if the Brow on which you make them, be not too steep, the work shall be the more Facile: if you build them up with walls, be careful to found deep enough according to the level, and if the midle of the terrase be on the Central line of the house or of any walke, make the Stayr of the upmost and downmost there to part at a plat on the head going down at both sides, so much of the stayr case may be within as that the outter edg thereof may be in a line with the Bordure at the wall, by this it marrs not the [Page 31]walke, the rest may be at the ends; Plant the Bordure at the up­perside of the walke with wall Trees, the under side (being but ell high) with Laurels: &c. But if your Terrase consists only of walkes and sloping Banks, you may have the Bordure at the head and foot of each Bank on either side the walkes, Planted with standard cher­ries &c. and the Banks, of Violets, Straw-Berries or Grass.

9. As for Pondes make them large and broad, such being best both for the health of Fish and Fowll, Clean, and most preferrable water for watering Plants: squair, Triangle, Circle, Ovall, or what figure sits your ground best; let them be 5 or 6 foot of solid water at least, with Sluces to let it Run in and out at pleasure.

I am against Arbust and close walkes except Trees their natural closing, where we have both shade and Air.

CHAP: 7. How to Level Ground.

I Have often wished that there might be some Rules found, where­by this expensive worke might become more easy. There be two sorts of levelling viz: the Horizontal, and Sloping. The first is best known, but the last more profitable and convenient. Ex­ample, I have made a plot slop 4 foot in 200 long, and 18 Inches in 380 foot the other way: this was not perspicuous to vulgar eyes, yet to have made it Horizontal, would have been Ridiculous as to time, paines and expences. And in levelling the walkes about a plot (which sloped naturally) to make them correspond with the grownd rownd, I behoved to make the midle walk agree with the side ones whereupon it slops 10 foot in 370 long: now if I had made this Horizontal, it would have been 5 foot or 10 steps lower than the one side walke, and as much higher than the other, and so worse and more Inconvenient than before, both as it is a walke, [Page 32]and anent Correspondancy with the rest of the ground within; there­fore I am for levelling any ground sloping, that it may turn a little to the Sun if possible, for drawing water, that it may correspond with its adjuncts, and above all to prevent the more costly way: for Its certainly a principal observation in levelling, not only to cause, the ground of it self serve it self, but also to level it as it lyes most conveniently, which is the cheap and easie way of levelling. When you have a Row of stakes set in a straight line and about 20 foot distance, as in the edge of a Bordure or midle of a walke, the way of levelling them either Horizontal or sloping, is to mark and put a nail in the two Stakes which ar at the extreams or ends thereof, and view betwixt, cause marke all the Rest which ar be­twixt, in a level line, therewith; This is the easiest, the exactest and quickest way: and in the same methode you may go round any plot, and consequently cross (every way) the same accordingly.

In that which you would have Horizontal, place the long Rule and the level at one end, suppose the sole of the Door, till the plumb fall right in recovering, and view alongst the said Rule (as on a fowlling piece) that you may see what part of each Stake it hits, and cause one with a piece white paper or white hefted knife hold the same at each stake, its heft tending out (as the nails which carry up the line) and direct him by words or signes to hold up or down till it be Just level: when they ar all marked, measure down so much on each Stake, as was raised up for conveniency; in viewing there marke, put in nailes a little, streatch on the line, and level up the earth or gravel thereunto.

And where you would have determin'd slops, set on the level and marke the far-end stake in a level line therewith, then measure down upon the said Stake or pole from the marked place so much as you designe the slop, and put in a naile with white paper about it, and at the upperside of the Rule in the stake at the door, put in another nail, and by viewing betwixt these two, marke all the rest as before. If the distance betwixt the extreams be farr where the sight may dazle, let the viewer descent his station, and come foreward at [Page 33]every 5 or 6 Stakes and holding his knife at the last marked Stake, cause his assistant or stake-marker proceed.

To level as the ground lyes, let its slop be what it will you need neither level nor Rule (except you please to try how much it slops after its done for satisfaction) only set stakes as before, and viewing the ground narrowly put nails in the stakes which are at the ex­treams where you think the ground will Run when levelled to make it serve it self, and as it lyes best or easiest for levelling: and when you have concluded upon the level at the extreams, make all the stakes in the Intervall by viewing as above.

2. But to proportion the level to the ground is the whole art of levelling. Its true it is easie, if you have a plot or walke a foot hi­gher at one end, to take half a foot thereof, and lay on the low end so as the two ends may be Horizontal, (I have already shew'd how to level having the two ends found) or if it be Horizontal to take 9 Inches off the one end, and lay on the other, that it may slop 18 Inches: but if some places of it ly one way, and some another, and some neither the one nor the other, this increaseth the difficul­ty. Wherefore you must first drive stakes at the corners of the plot, then view the ground about and put nayles in the stakes where you would have the level Run, or at least where you think by your eye it may most conveniently come to make it contain it self, and easiest to be levelled: also set up several stakes in the Intervalls and Cross­wayes through the plot from opposite Angles, and by viewing be­twixt the foresaid nailes every way marke all the stakes level; but if you cannot see from the markes of this supposed level which are on these corner stakes, seeing there may be some underneath the ground, little Hills, or some such obstructions in the way, then measure equally up upon each of them, so farr as you think conve­nient for getting your sight, and mind to take down the same again after viewing.

When all is marked with this supposed level, go over and note narrowly how it will agree, that so as your reason shall teach you to alter, take up one end or down the other, or up or down both till [Page 34]you bring it to such proportion, as to do its own business it self. Or you may do more exactly thus.

Suppose you have a Bordure or midle of a walke with sixteen stakes driven therein at 20 foot distance, all marked with a suppo­sed level, and 10 of their markes above ground, and 6 under ground: first measure how farr the markes on each of the 10 stakes is above ground, and write them down particularly, and adding their measures together, you find 13 foot 4 Inches. Secondly measure how farr the markes of the 6 stakes ar under ground, & write down, adding them together you find it 12 foot; substract the one from the other and the difference is 16 Inches which must be divided by 16 the stakes in the Bordure, that is, ane Inch to each stake, so that this supposed level is an Inch higher over all than the true level, which being taken down will make the ground there level it self, and no more. This may suffice for example, but I could say more, if I did see your ground. And if you can thus proportion the level to one Bordure, walke, or one Row of stakes, you may by the same Rule find the level for the stakes round and cross the plot, and conse­quently level the same accordingly: for having once concluded on the level, drive stakes over all the plot as in my first way of planting Trees, (see Chap. 4. Sect. 4.) and marke and put nailes therein as above is taught for carrying the line. Except you mean to follow my method of levelling the Kitchen-Garden, or the like for planting and sowing, which is only to level one Bordure thus by stakes and lines. Round each plot and by the eye level up the ground within thereunto all along in Trenching, albeit this not so proper for Courts and Grass plots. However as by this means, I use to level ground without a level, so do I think this way of finding out the true level by means of a supposed one, worthy your notice, and if rightly im­proven save you much money and paines.

Be cautious in founding your Walls lest you undermine them in levelling, nor is it convenient sometimes to confine your level to the foundation of Walls already built: for in so doing, you may lose more, than would cast down and rebuild, but in such cases you may rather build under gradually.

3. There be some bad lying plots and walkes, with an ascent at the head, hollow in the midle, level at the foot, these and the like are very troublesome to level under one denomination: for the tak­ing down the Hill, bares it so, that plants cannot prosper thereon. some ar necessitate to take out the Gravel, Tile, or Stones so much deeper, and travell earth again: but I rather advise to make terrases, you need not confine to the number of banks, but only to the propor­tion and uniformity. If it tend all one way as high at one end and low at the other, then its proper enough for perpendicular walkes that front the house, but if low in the midle and high at both ends, or low at both ends and high in the midle, then more proper for Parallel walkes, (whose extremities are equidistant from the cen­tral line of the House) remember to divide and slop them equally.

This minds me of some abuses, which I have seen, as a plot of sloping levelled ground, with another Horizontaly levelled lying at the foot thereof, (at least not under one slop) or Horizontal walkes and bordures lying by the foot and head of sloping plots; these are unseemly: for you should allwayes make them slop under the same denomination (except in steep and high banks) I have made walkes of 18 foot broad slop 18 Inches from one side to the other, because the whole plot sloped the same way, so much pro­portionally, yet to the eye appears very pleasant; but where such Horizontal and sloping pieces ly contiguous, the defect is easily seen, therefore if you be necessitate to lay some plots so, (albeit I know reason for laying walkes so) make rather a Hedg to Intercept, and in all your workes let there be a connexion.

4. There be some more obstructions in levelling, as in a long walke when you have the two ends found and marked, (either with a supposed or true level) and cannot see betwixt, to do it exactly by reason of length: here two may go to the midle or near it, where you may conveniently see both ends, looking back and fore, there drive in two stakes near the length of the long straight Rules di­stance, at which hold on the Rule, and let one view alongst the same till the marke at the West-end be level therewith, and the [Page 36]other towards the East till the marke there be also level with the same; so both may alter up or down till they have their desires at once: then six the Rule, and having as many stakes set as is need­full, you may view backsight and foresight hereon, and level them all exactly.

5. But if a Wall, a House, &c. Intercept, measure perpendi­cular and exactly up to the top thereof, and on the other side mea­sure down the same again; and so set foreward the level, but so as it may communicate with the rest, when obstructions are removed.

But if a Hill, go to the Top, set the Rule level, and laying ane eye thereto, cause one with a long pole go down till its Top be le­vel therewith (he holding it level by a Plumb Rule) then descent your stations and set the upper-end of the Rule where the pole stood, there level it and do as before: thus from station to station to the foot of the Hill, (if it be so great) keeping compt in a Note-book what poles and parts; the which may be as easily taken down the other side by the same method.

But if it be possible to see over the obstruction on 3 footed stand­ing leathers by help of long poles or Pikes, (as I have done in the like case) raise your level thereon, and having viewed, and mar­ked that on the other side, measure down the same there, &c.

6. I might here speak of the solidity of earth, whereby you may move readily compt the expence of levelling, but having shew'd in the next Chap. Sect. 5. How to measure solids, I presume its appli­cable to earth: (as well as Timber, Stone, &c.) For if you know the breadth, length, and deepth thereof, you may find how ma­ny solid Ells, &c. And if you know how many Ells and parts will load a cart and how many carts a day, you may go near to calculat the cost of the whole.

7. In levelling any ground for Kitchen ground, Orchards, or Nurseries, take not away its good earth or surface, (as you bring down the hights) but alwayes turn over the upper-part thereof be­hind you, carrying away that which is below, so much deeper, that it may contain that surface, and put the bad earth in bottom of hollowes with better mould above it.

In the practise of levelling (or other workes) contrive the work­ing, so as there may be still a motion amongst all the partes; and albeit carts are cheaper for levelling than Wheell-barrowes, if the way of carriage be not very short, yet if you do not set as many men to fill the carts as may have the one full against the other come in and no more, you lose considerably: and this will be according to the distance of carriage, or as the earth is capable of being wrought; and so with Wheell-barrowes for two Wheellers, three barrowes, and one filler sometimes doth well, sometimes more fil­lers or fewer Wheellers, yet still let them have a led barrow. And if this could be done with carts also, it would be of great Advantage. wherefore in my opinion there is no way so probable to worke this effect, as the carts with three Wheells where by 2. men, with 2. of them carts, and one Horse can do as much as three Men, two Horses, and 2 Carts: for one man to fill the led Cart, the other Man to drive the one Horse: and when he comes in, he has nothing to do but take the Trases and Hooks off the empty Cart and put upon the rings of the full one and so drive on. This Cart has no Trams or Limbers, but a Swingle-Tree or Bread-board be­fore, where the rings that keeps the Trasses are: it has a handsome folding body, the thrid Wheell is about 30 Inches Diameter all Iron and Runs in a Shiers of the same fastned perpendicular under the midle of the forebreast with a turning Pin of Iron; the other two Wheells are common, but if they have an Iron Axis, the better.

8. To bring in Water in Pipes to your Houses, Courts, Gar­dens, Pondes, Parks, &c. Consider on the level, for as the place where you convey it unto, must allwayes be lower than the Fountain from whence it comes, else thither it cannot flow: so must you take notice that no Hill in the way of its conveyance be so high as the Fountain it self. You may find the level by placing your In­strument at the Well or Fountain, as I directed in walkes. and if a Hill intercept that sight, plant on the Top thereof, that by back­sight and foresight you may find the difference, that hence you may know whither you can carry it about the obstruction: but if [Page 38]the distance be farr, you need to be the more exact. As for Instru­ment, the Cross discribed Chap. 3. whose sights may be two Pro­spect Glasses, may do well whither for one or many stations. Let one stand at the Spring-head, another betwixt and the place where­unto you desire to carry the Water, a large distance sundry, but so as a thrid man about the midle may see both their Marke-boards that is on their Pikstaves, and direct them to hold level by his back and foresight, desiring them to keep accompt what foot and parts: and so come foreward till the assistant at the well plant where the foremost stood, and thus proceed all in a straight line, and do as before, from station to station so long as needfull. at length add all the measures of back-stations together, and all of the fore-sta­tions: substract the one from the other, and the remainders gives the difference of levels betwixt the Fountain and the appointed place.

Allow to the fall of the Water for every 1000 foot in length 12 Inches slop at least.

CHAP. VIII. How to measure, divide and lay out Land, &c.

SOme following other-Countrey-books Ignorantly measures our ground with their measures, therefore I am here to Informe such that,

In measuring all figures whither superficial or solide, it is requi­sit to know first, wherewith they should be measured, secondly how they should be measured.

Land is done by ell, or fall measure, (also Masons Roughwork-buildings) Stone, Board, and Glass by foot measure: 12 Inches a foot (and no distinction betwixt a Scots and English foot) the Gla­ziers [Page 39]used only 8 Inches, but the Act of Parliament hath reduced them to 12 as others. Some would think 12 Inches but a thrid part more, whereas it is equivalent to 2¼ of theirs: for 8 times 8 is 64, and 12 times 12 is 144, out of which I get 2 times 64, and the 16 re­maining is ¼ thereof. This minds me of that question viz. Whither is a squair half foot or half a foot squair most? I have heard severalls say they were both alike, but this was their mistake: For a half foot squair (superficial,) is but the half of a squair half foot, and if solid its but ¼ thereof.

The Scots Ell according to several Acts of Parliament is three foot one Inch, or 37 Inches long: 6 ells long and 6 ells broad is 36, a fall squair: 10 falls in length and 4 in breadth is 40, a Rood squair: 40 falls in length and 4 in breadth is 160, an Acre. See the Table of superficial squair measure. And these that desires long measure, 6 ells long is a fall, 40 falls a furlong, 8 furlongs a mile. See the Table.

We differ in measuring land from the English, as the fall differs from the pole: our fall is 6 ells or 18½ foot, their pole is 5½ yardes or 16½ foot.

By what is said I hope you know wherewith to measure, it only remaines then that you know how to measure; of which anon.

2. In measuring all superficies we take notice of the breadth and length, but of solides the breadth, length and deepth. To instance in a few, and first of some Superficial Figures; as a Geometrical squair, (see fig. 18.) it is measured by multiplying one side in it self (viz. a. b. or c. e: or a. c. or b. e.) which here is 30½ falls: In your workings I would advise you to make use of decimal Arithme­tick, because thereby you may work whole Numbers and Fractions together with great ease and quickness, and you may reduce ordi­nary Fractions into decimalls, by multiplying the Numerator by 100. or 1000. &c. and dividing the product by the Denominator, so shall the ¼ of anything be 25, the ½ 5, and the ¾ 75: therefore multiply 30.5 in its self, the product is 930.25. which is [...] 930. falls and ¼ of a fall. See the example, for when you multiply decimally what ever fractions are in multipli­cand and multiplicator, cut them off after addition: the which if there be any will be Fractions, as here you see two cut off viz. 25 which is ¼ of 100, the fall being here into 100 parts the Integer of 25. And when you divide decimally, as whole Num­bers and Fractions by whole Numbers, put still a dash betwixt the whole and Fraction, and notice how often you will get your divisor placed under the whole Numbers of your dividend, and just so many whole Numbers will be in the quotient and the rest Fracti­ons: or if you divide whole and Fractions by whole and Fractions, notice how many times you may place the whole Numbers of divi­sor under whole Numbers of dividend &c. Or if you divide whole Numbers by whole and Fractions, whatever Fractions be in divisor add so many Ciphers to the dividend, and do as before.

You may reduce this (or any other) plot into Acres by dividing [Page 41]by 160 the falls in one Acre, and the product here will be 5 Acres 130 falls and ¼ of a fall. But if [...] you would further know what this Fraction (25) is in Ells, say, if 100 be equall to 36 the ells in one fall what is 25 equall unto? Multiply the 2d Number by the 3d, and di­vide by the first and the answer will be 9 ells. See it wrought.

Moreover falls may be reduced into poles, and poles into falls, or Scots measure into English or English into Scots: one superficies is to another as the squairs of their like sides, therefore as the squair of 16.5 (the English) is to the squair of 18.5 (the Scots) so is the con­tent in Scots Acres or falls, to the content in English Acres or poles.

Example the squair of 16.5 (i. e. 16.5 multiplyed in it self) is 272.25 and the squair of 18.5 is 342.25, And as 272.25 is to 342.25: so is 930.25 (the content of the said plot in falls or Scots measure) to 1169.43¼ sere, its content in poles or English measure. This I thought fit to mention, to let any see that knows not the diffe­rence betwixt the English measure and ours.

Secondly an oblong squair or Parallelogram (see fig. 19.) by mul­tiplying the breadth by the length: a. d. or b. c. is its length and a. b. or d. c. its breadth.

Thridly, a Triangle, (see fig. 20.) all Triangles are measured by multiplying the whole base by half the perpendicular or whole perpend: by half the base; a. b. is base and i. c. the perpendicular, or without the perpendicular at all, add up all the sides, and take half the summe; from this half summe take every side, which call the three differences, multiply these three differences and the half summe continually together, the squair Root of the last product shall be the Area of the Triangle.

Fourthly, a Trapezia (see fig. 21.) is reduced into two Trian­gles, and measured accordingly.

Fifthly, and so is any irregular straight lined figure, and if any side of it be crooked, draw a line that may leave out as much as it takes in. But if it cannot be measured within because of obstructions, [Page 42]then add on the outside till you reduce it into a squair, and after mul­tiplication substract what was added, the remainder shall be its Area.

Sixthly a circle (See Fig: 22.) is near equall to a squair made of ½ the diameter and ½ the circumference or perifery, and therefore is measured by multiplying a. q. c. o. b. the Semicircumference by a. d. or d. c. the semidiameter. And having any one given you may find the other by the Rule of proportion thus:

The lowest number is, as 7. is to 22: so is the diameter to the Circumference, or as 22. is to 7: so the Circumference to the di­ameter, or thus: As 1. is to 3.1416: so the Diameter to the Circum: or as 3.1416. is to 1: so the Circum: to the diam: or as 113. to 355: so diam: to perifery, or as 355. to 113: so perifery to di­ameter.

In this the Diameter is 63 falls and as 7. is to 22: so 63 (the diam:) to 198 (the perifery) Take ½ perifery which is 99. and multiply by ½: Diameter which is 31.5. and the product is 3118.5. or as 28. is to 22: or 14. to 11: or 1. to 785399: so is the squair of the Diameter to the Area of the circle: or as 22. to 28: or 11. to 14: or 355. to 452: or 1. to 1.273239: so is the Area of the Circle to the squair of its diameter. as 1. is to 282095: so is the circle to the Root of a squair equall to the Area of the circle. as 1. is to 707107: so is the Diameter to the Root of a squair to be inscribed in a Circle. as 1. is to 225072: so is the perifery to the Root of the inscribed squair in the circle, and as 1. is to 886227: so is the Di­ameter to the Root of a squair equall to the Circle, which is the squairing of a Circle.

Seventhly, the Semicircle as measured by multiplying the Radius or semidiameter by ¼ of the circumference of the whole Circle.

Eightly, the Quadrant or ¼ of the Circle, by multiplying the Radius by ½ of that Arch line which is ⅛ of the perifery.

Ninthly, to measure the segment of a Circle as q. i. o. c. first draw its Radius from d. to o. which constituts the Sector d. o. c. And as the Quadrant hath 90 degrees so this Sector hath 40: therefore say. [Page 43]as 90. is to the content of the Quadrant: so is 40 to the content of the sector, the Triangle d. o. i. Being substracted from the Sectors content, Rests half the segment, that doubled is the Area of the whole.

To do Geometrically, find the length of its Arch line thus: (See Fg. 23.) divide the chord line a. d. c. Of that arch into 4 equall parts set one of these from c. to i. on the chord line, and one of them from the Angle at a. to. o. In the Arch line, then draw the line o. i. which line is half the length of the Arch line, a. o. b. c. (but if the part of a Circle be greater than a semicircle, then divide the Arch line into two equall parts and find the length of one of these as is taught, which doubled is the half length of the whole.) here take the half of the Arch line of Fig: 23. And multiply by its Radius e. b. The product is the Area of the segment a. b. c. d. and the Triangle a. c. e. which Triangle must be substract [...] therefrom, and the remainder is the Area of the segment.

Tenthly, if you would measure the oval, then observe the Rules in measuring the segment: seing the oval is made of segments; If it be from two Centers, then its but two Segments, If from four, then it is four segments and a quadrangle.

Eleventhly Regular poligons ar such figures as consist of equall sides and Angles, and which may be inscribed in a Circle or Circum­scribed about a Circle, whither pentagon 5 sided, hexagon six sided, Heptagon, Octagon, Nonagon, Decagon, Dodecagon, for any of these take half the compass about and the perpend: drawen from the Centre to the midle of one of the sides, multiply the one by the other, and that gives the content.

Twelvthly to measure any Irregular figure consisting of straight and Circular lines, the arches and angles bending Inwards; If you cannot reduce them into some of the Figures above mentioned within it self, you may do it by drawing lines without: and after you have multiplied, substract what was added (whither segments or others) and there will remain the Area of the figure proposed.

Mountains and Valleyes ar best reduced into Triangles, and so [Page 44]measured: for albeit they make rather spherical than plain Triangles, yet the way of mensuration differs not; yet as in plain Trapezias there are other wayes than by Triangles (as taking the half of both ends and sides added for the mean breadth and length) so for mounts and Valleyes, viz: Measure the circuite or base part of the Moun­tain and its top, add them together, and take half of that sum for the length; do so with the ascense (or going up from foot to top) of 2 sides of the Hill, add the measure of the longest and shortest side together, taking the half thereof for the breadth, and multiply the one by the other, that gives the superficies of the Mount or Hill.

And as you measured the compass of the foot of the Hill so must you round the circuite or compass of the hight of the valley or glen: and as you measured the top of the Mountain, so must you the bottom of the depth of the vale [...] add them together and take half thereof for the breadth likway [...] as you measured the ascense of both sides of the Hill, so must you the descense or going down of both sides to the bottom of the valley; add them together, and take half for the length, and so multiply as before.

3. Albeit I have said enough anent measuring land, yet there is much more required in dividing and laying out the same.

The first time I saw the need of it, was in making an Avenue of great length which crossed a march several times, which did take in several pieces of land and cast out others, but non of them being e­qual neither in shape nor proportion, I behoved to measure both, and then cut off so much as might Ballance, and that from parts assigned.

As first, if from the Triangle a. b. c. (being Fig: 24.) which con­taines 870 falls squair, you would cut off 300 falls squair, then finding the base c. b. of this Triangle to be 58 falls long, say, if 870 falls (the whole plot) have 58 for its base: what will 300 (the part I desire off) have for its base.

Answer, 20. therefore measure [...] alongst 20 falls on the base from one end thereof, as from b. to d. then draw the line a. d. so shall a. b. d. contain 300 falls, and a. d. c. 570. Or

If it be required to take off part from a Triangle, according to any proportion given, by a line drawen parallel to any of the sides assigned, as let a b. c. (which is Fig. 25.) be a Triangle containing 7 Acres, or 1120 falls; and it is desired that 2 Acres be cut off by a line drawen Parallel to a. c. Its base line is 57 falls which you must divide in proportion, as 5. is to 2. in the point d. then seek the mean proportional between b. d. 42. and b. c. 57. as b. f. 48 80/97 But having (as in the end of this Chap:) shewed how to find mean proportionals Arithmetically, I shall here shew you how to do Geometrically.

Therefore describe the semicircle b. e. c. and at the point d. on the base line, raise the Perpendicular d. e. Cutting the Arch line in e. then set the length of b. e. (which is the mean Proportional) from b. on the Diameter line, and that will reach to the point f. now from the point at f. take the nearest distance to the line c. a. and set that distance squair off at a. to G. then draw the line G. f. exactly paral­lel to a. c. so will the Triangle G. b. f. be 5 Acres, and G. f. c. a. 2 Acres, the thing propounded.

If you would cut off some part from a squair parallel to one side, you need only measure that side, whence you designe to take it at; and divide the parts, you ar to take off thereby: and the quotient shall tell how much you must set off. Example by fig: 19. its ane oblong squair denominated a. b. c. d. I desire 3 Acres or 480 falls, cut off at, and parallel to the side a. b. which side is 32 falls divide 480 (the part you ar to cut off) by 32 (the side of the squair) and the quotient will be 15 therefore set off 15 falls from a. to e. and from b. to f. and the squair a. b. f. e. is 3 Acres, as was required.

But if its sides did not go squair off, as the Trapezia 21. then re­duce the Trapezia into a Triangle, and divide the base into so many [Page 35]equal or unequal parts, (as you would have the Trapezia into) then find a mean proportion between the extream points of the base, and every particular point in the base: from which means draw lines through the Trapezia parallel to the side assigned, which may an­swere your requiring. Or

A more ready way to work on ground, is to find the mid line of the ground you are to cut off, and divide thereby, &c. But the question, is how to effect this, you may first set off the whole in two Triangles, viz: If you would cut off 160 falls, at the end a. b. of fig: 21. Then set off the half thereof at the Angle c. a. b. to cut the line a. c. by the first: for you will find that as the Triangle c. a. b. containes 364 falls, so must you go 7 ⅔ from a. to e. on that base, to draw the line b. e. that Cuts off the Triangle a. b. e. containing 80 falls. Likwayes as the Triangle d. e. b. containes 165 ½, so must you go from b. to f. that, a. b. e. f. may containe 160 falls. Only the line e. f. is not parallel to a. b. therefore as b. f. is 5 longer than a. e. set 2 ½ out from e. to G. and in from f. to h. and draw the line G. h. paral­lel to a. b. and to leave as much out as it takes in; then find the length of the mid line betwixt a. b and G. h. viz. i. K. which is 16. and by the same divide 160. the quotient shall be 10. And that will reach from a. to G. and from b. to h. so as to cut off 160 falls at, and parallel to the end a. b. (by the line G. h.) as was desired.

It is required to part the pentagon or fig: 26. Into two equal parts from the Angle at a. The whole figure is 10 Acers, one Rood and 12 falls, that is, 1652 falls; then the half is 826. and the Tri­angle a. b. c. is but 441. which wants 385 of the half: therefore take 385 from the Triangle a. c. d. by the first Rule, and there will be ad­ded the Triangle a. c. f. to the Triangle a. b. c. which will divide the figure into two equal parts, the thing required.

I am desired to set off a thrid part of the hexagon or fig: 27. By a line drawen from the point G. the whole plot is 45 Acers and 145 falls or 7345 falls, the ⅓ thereof is 2448. and the Trapezia G. e. f. a is but 2041.875. which wants 407 falls: (and the fraction which a little more than ⅚ of a fall) wherefore I must take 407.875 from the [Page 47]the Triangle G. d. e. by the first, thus. If 2523.50 the content of the Triangle G. d. e. have for its base c. d. 62 falls, how farr must I go on the same to get off 407.875? answer, 10 5325/25235 that is 10 falls and about ⅕ of a fall; the which being set from e. to h. to draw the line G. h parts off the ⅓ of this Irregular hexagon, as was desired.

If you were desired to lay out any number of Acres at pleasure into a Geometrical squair, you need only reduce them into falls and extract the squair Root thereof (as at the end of this Chap.) which is the length of one side, and so measure, or set off by a Chain. Or

If you would have it ly in a Parallelogram or oblong squair, you may lay it out, as I directed for cutting off some part from a squair parallel to one side: for knowing how many falls you would have into the oblong squair, you may make a side at pleasure (if not al­ready confin'd to one) and divide thereby as is taught. Or

If you would make a Triangle to contain so many Acres, Roods, or falls, double the number of falls, then take for the base of your Triangle, any number at pleasure, by which divide the double of falls to be brought in the Triangle; and the quotient shall be the perpendicular to that Triangle, whose content shall be the number of falls proposed. And herein consists the Reduction of figures Arith­metical.

4. Perhaps you may have occasion, to measure the solidity of Earth, Timber Trees, Stones, &c. Now to find the superficies of so­lides. as,

First the Sphaere or Globe, multiply its whole circumference by its whole diameter, and that gives its superficial content. And as 7 is to 22: or 113. to 355: so is the Diameters squair to the superficies of the sphaere: and so is the Diameter multiplyed by the axis of a cylinder to its superficies: and so is half Diameter of a cone multiply­ed in its side to the superficies of a cone: and so the squair of the chord of half the segment of a sphere to the superficies of that segment.

As 1. is to 1.772454: so is the Diameter to the Root of a squair equal to the superficies of a Sphaere. Or as 1. is to; 564189: so is [Page 48]the Circumference to the Rootsquair, that shall be equal to the su­perficies of the Sphere.

5. As superficial measure hath 144 Inches squair in one foot: so solide measure hath 1728. every solide foot is like a Die, for what it wants either in breadth or thickness it must have in length: for 12 times 12. is 144, and 12 times 144. is 1728. the cubesquair Inches in a cubesquair foot; therefore,

In measuring a squair solide, multiply its length by its breadth, and that product by its deepth.

To measure a Cylinder (such as a Roller) multiply the Semi­diameter by the Semi-circumference, and that product by the length.

To measure a Cone (viz. it hath a Circular base, and ends in a sharp point) take the superficial content of the base, and multiply by ⅓ of the altitude or hight.

To measure a Pyramid (viz, it hath an angular base, and ends in a sharp point) make use of the last Rule.

To measure a Sphere or Globe, (viz. a solid figure every where equidistant from the Centre) Cub the Diameter, and multiply that by 11. then divide that product by 21. the quotient is the solide content of the Sphere.

As 1. is to 80604: so is the Diameter to the Root of a Cube equal to the Sphere. Or as 1. is to; 256556: so is the Circumfe­rence to the Root Cube of a solide, equal to the Sphere.

As 1. is to 523599: so the Cube of the Diameter to the Sphere. Or as 1. is to; 909856: so is the Sphere to the Cube of the Dia­meter.

As 1. is to; 016887: so is the Cube of the Circumference to the Sphere. or as 1. is to 59; 217629: so is the Sphere to the Cube of the Circumference.

As 42. is to 22: or 1. to 5236: so is the Diameter cubed to the solidity of the Sphere. Or as 22. is to 42: or 1. to 1; 90986: so is the solidity of the Sphere to its Diameter cubed.

As 28. is to 22: or 14. to 11: or 1. to 785399: so is the squair [Page 49]of the Diameter of a Cylinder multiplyed by its side, to the solidity of the Cylinder: and so is the squair of the Diameter of a Cone multiplyed by ⅓ of its Axis, to the solidity of the Cone.

As 1. is to 25; 1327: so is the Diameter cubed to a Cylinder.

To measure a Regular Polygon, (as a piece Timber hewed into 5, 6, 7, 8, &c. Equal sides with both ends alike) multiply the semi­circumference by the Radius or semi-diameter, and that product by the length.

To measure a Truncus, (viz. a Cylinder that leans) take the su­perficies of the Circle, and adding the longer and shorter sides of the Truncus, take the half for the hight.

The Sector of a Sphere is measured by multiplying its superficies Spherical by one third of the hight.

The Segment of a Sphere measure it as a Sector, and substract from the Sector the solidity of a Cone, whose Apex is in the Center, and base the Area of the Segment.

The solidity of a Spheroid is got by multiplying the greatest Cir­cle into two thirds of the Axis about which the Spheroid is made.

The solidity of the Trunk of a Spheroid cut off with two Circles at right angles with the base, such as our Wine Caskes are, is got­ten by adding two thirds of the Area of the Circle at the bung or midle together, and multiplying the same by the length.

Irregular disorderly Solids ar measured by help of Water in a pre­pared Vessel exactly cubical, so large as it may contain it; accor­ding to Archimedes: put the body into the vessel, pour in so much Water as may just cover the same; and make a marke where the su­perficies of the Water touched the vessel; take out the same irregu­lar body, and make a second marke where the superficies cuts the side of the vessel; then take the distance between the two markes in Inches and parts, which multiply by the squair of the side of the prepared vessel; and that product shall be the solidity of the irregu­lar body sought.

6. If you would measure any superficies by the Table of Loga­rithms, then set down the Logar: of the length and breadth, add [Page 50]them together, and whatever their summe be, the number answe­ring thereunto is the Area or superficial content. Which if they be falls and you desire to reduce them into Acres, then out of the Lo­garithm thereof substract the Logarithm of 160 (the falls in one Acre) and there shall remain the Logarithm of the content in A­cres. Or

If you would measure solides by the Table, set down the Loga­rithms of its length, breadth, and deepth: add them together; and the absolute Number answering this Logarithm is the solide content required.

Also by the Table you may extract the squair Root (of any plot, field or other superficies) with great ease and quickness thus:

Take the half of the Logarithm of the given Number whose Root is required, and the Number answering this Logarithm is the squair Root sought. Or

For extraction of the Cube Root of any solide, take the third part of the Logarithm of the given Number whose Root is required, and the absolute Number answering thereunto is the Cube Root desired.

And to find a mean proportional (between two Numbers given by the Table) is to add the Logarithms of them together, and take half. As if you would have the mean betwixt 40.5. and 72. Thus:

The Number answering this Logarithm is 54. for the mean pro­portional.

To find 2, 3, 4, 5, &c. means between any two Numbers, take their difference, and divide it by a Number more by one than the Number of means desired, as if 3 means, divide by 4. &c. This Logarithmical quotient added to the last, finds the first mean next [Page 51]it, &c. As, if you would have three mean proportionalls betwixt 4. and 64.

The ¼ thereof is 0.301030. which being added to the Logarithm of 4 makes 0.903090. the Logarithm of 8. for the first mean: again added to this last, gives 1.204120. the Logarithm of 16. and added to this, gives 1.505150 the Logarithm of 32. which 8.16.32. ar the 3 means betwixt 4 and 64.

But because the extraction of the squair Root is so needful to be known, I shall demonstrate the same.

Example, If you were to find the squair Root of [...] 576. Supposing it the squair of Fig. 18. Make first a dash at every other Figure, beginning allwayes at the first towards the right hand viz. at 6. and 5. that just so many Figures will be in the quotient or Root; then say, what is the Root of 5. answer, 2. is the nearest, therefore write 2. in the quotient and multiply the same, saying 2 times 2 is 4. write down that under the 5 and substract it therefrom, saying, 4 from 5 there remains 1. thus have you 20 the squair Root of G. i. c. f. (considering that there is yet one Figure to follow) and now you want the squair Root of the two oblong squairs, viz. a. b. G. h. and e. b. f. d. (out of which you must substract the little squair e. b. i. h.) therefore double your quotient or Root of the squair G. i. c. f. saying 2 times 2 is 4 write this down for your divisor one Figure foreward viz. under 17. and use common division, saying how of­ten can we get 4 out of 17. answer. 4 times, write that in the quoti­ent and say, 4 times 4 is 16. that substracted from 17. remains 1. thus have you 4 the Root of the oblong squair, out of which sub­stract the little squair once, because you have it twice by the former doubling the oblong squair; therefore multiply the side of the little squair, viz. 4 in it self, that makes 16. substract the same from [...] [Page 52]and there remains nothing: so 24 is the squair Root or side a. b. whose squair is 576.

Example 2. If the squair of this plot be 543169. make the dashes, as before, viz. under 9.1.4. and say, what is the squair of 54. (the dashes so directs, and not to 5. therefore mind the usefullness of them) now the nearest squair Root of 54 is 7. But [...] as in division, so you must look, if you will get the double thereof out of the remainders and the little squair too: If you mind this you cannot go wrong. But upon tryall I find it will so work, therefore set 7 in the quotient and multiply the same, it makes 49 write that down under 54. substract, and there remains 5. This tells that the Root of the large squair is 700. (considering that there is yet 2 Figures to follow as appears by the 3 dashes) now double your quotient, that makes 14 (this is the length of the two oblong squairs) place the same, as in division, and say, how often can we get 14 out of 53. answer 3 times and, 11 re­maining; now substract the little squair whole side is 3. Thus, 3 times 3 is 9: from 111. remaines 102. There is the Root of other two oblong squairs wanting: therefore double the whole quotient a. b. 73 that makes 146. place the same as before, for division, and say, how often can we get 146 out of 1026, or gradually, how often one in 10. we get 9 ones in 10, but not 9 fowers in 12 which will remain. then try if we can have 8. No, therefore take 7 and set in the quotient, as before in common division, viz. 7 times one from 10. remains 3. and 7. fowers from 23. remains 4. and 7 sixes from 46. remains 4. lastly substract the little squair, viz. 7 times 7 from 49. there remains nothing. So the squair Root of 543169. is 737.

And if the Number be never so great, you may observe that the first operation consists of 3 parts. (i e. first, finding the Root of the great squair; secondly, the Root of the oblongs by doubling the quotient and using common division; Thridly, substracting the little squair for the reasons above demonstrated.) The second ope­ration (if there be more than one as in this last example) consists of [Page] [Page]

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[Page 53]2 parts viz. first the doubling the whole quotient for your divisor, by which you divide your dividend, as in common. Secondly the substracting the little squair; (whereof the last Figure in the quotient is allwayes the Root) and hencefurth in every operation, if never so many, you must allwayes now proceed as in this second operation.

But to find the squair Root of a Number consisting of whole Numbers and Fractions, as 930.25 the squair [...] of fig. 18. work as il all were whole Numbers, as before, untill one Figure of your divisor come under the Fraction of your dividend, and then the rest of the quotient is Fraction, as in the Example is plain.

But to find the Root of a Number, that is not a squair [...] Number, as 19. fower is the neatest, and there remains 3. now, how to know the denominator of this Numerator, is to double the quotient and add one to it, and that is all­ways the denominator to any Fraction happening in Roots; here the Root of 19 is 4 3/9.

I have given you the Geometricall demostration of the squair Root, which shewes the reason of its Arithmeticall operation; and this I could never find in any Book.

I confess I need to Apologize for these and the like digressions, but the earnest desire of severalls forced me.

Place the Figures here.

CHAP. I. Of the several wayes of propagation.

I Am not to discribe the varieties in the Tribes and Kindreds of Plants, (seeing I am not now writing a Herbal) but only what is most material to their propagation and improvement: wherefore I shall shew,

First in general the several wayes of propagation, and then particulary some of the most usefull.

2. The several wayes of increasing them are.

First by seeds. Kyes, Kirnells, Nuts, Stones.

Secondly by off-sets, Suckers, Slivings taken from then other-Plant.

Thridly by Cuttings, Stems, Slips set without Roots.

Fourthly by laying the branch of a growing Plant down into the Earth.

Fifthly by carrying up soil to it, where it will not bend down.

Sixthly by various wayes of Graffings.

Lastly by several wayes of Inoculation.

The business of this Chap: is to shew the manner and time of performing each of these wayes.

3. And first by seeds, choice them from the fairest Plants, full ripe, the day fair, and Plants dry. Lay them in the Sun and open air a little, some for Rubbing out, others for winning in their husks. And as you should not sow Fruits, Kirness, Nuts, or Stones with the Fleshy part on, (but eat or Rub it off by Rolling in sand, and then dry them a little) so nor wash, Weet, or steep them. Neither keep any long after they ripe, the most part will keep till spring, but then many will ly till the next, especially stony Seeds, Berries, and Kirnells. I do not mean, Ash, Holly, Yew, Mezeriom, Hawthorn, &c. Who naturally lies a year longer, albeit sowen Immediatly when gathered, yet even some of these namely the holly will ly sometimes a year longer than their usuall time, if the fles­hy part be not Rubbed off.

I might say something of the timely Interring Tulips and others, but I come to the manner of sowing: which is,

To cover the seed with the mould, whereof there is several mod­les according to the nature of the seed, Soil, season, or fancy either to sow the Ground and turne the seed in under the furrow, or by drawing trenches in the soil, and then drawing the earth over them with a haw, or sowing the bed ready drest and hacking in the seed with the same Instrument, or by Harrowing, Raking with a Rake or drawing bushes over the sowed Ground to cover the seed, or to put off the surface of the whole bed with the Rake head and sow thereon, then draw on the mould again with the same, and having cast up the furrows with ashovell, smooth the bed with the Rake, or make drills by lines in made up beds, sow and cover the same with the Rake head, not disordering the Ranks, or to set the single seeds with sticks by lines, or to sow the bed, and then to silt fine mould thereon, &c.

Sow the strong and hardy deeper than the small and tender, and sow ebber at spring than before winter, and deeper in a light, than a stiff soil.

Albeit I use for the most part to Plant and sow every species by themselves, yet you may sometimes use mixtures, as Carrots and Radish in one bed, because the Radish may be gone e're the Carrots require much Room. Among new set Liquorish sow Onyons, Radish, Lettice, and you may sow Radish, Lettice, Parsly, Carrats, Pars­neeps together, gathering each in their seasons, the Parsneeps will stay till winter. And drop Beat-Rave or parsly in your onyonbeds to stay winter after onyons ar gone. Also Beat-Rave, Skirrets, Beans, at considerable distance in the Intervalls of new Plan­ted Artichocks, also at a great distance among cabbages, or in the edge of the furrows of other beds.

The most naturall time for sowing is, when the seeds of their own accord falls into the ground, nevertheless that many doth well at this season, as stony seeds and such as can endure winter, yet the tender which ar many with us, doth best in the spring, but for convenience we sow at severall other seasons, as in summer, (at which time they require watering and shade) and in Autumne (which is the only season for some) who if tender requires defence & shelter; nor can we have others early at spring without hot beds, which is required in speciall by such as comes not to perfection in our short Summer.

Endeavour to sow when the soil is in good temper, a hot-furrow is good, but some grounds will not harrow or Rake when new delv'd or Plow'd, which when exposed sometime to air, Frost, Sun, and Showres doth crumble and fall tender; hence ought such to be pre­pared by fallowing. See more particularly the manner and season for each sort in their respective Chapters following.

4. Suckers ar these which growes, Runs, Springs off, or about the mother-Plant, whereof is made off setts by severing or parting them off therefrom.

Take off these on Trees and shrubs with a violent but cleanly pull, be carefull of bulbo roots and Anemonies, that you wound not the mother-Plant.

To force such as are unapt to put forth Suckers naturally, you [Page 58]may bair the Root, (of these of a woody substance,) cut it into the pith, slit it down a little, and put in a stick to keep the gap open; level in the earth again: so shall that lip raised spring, (and so much the better if there was an eye immediatly below the cut.) When the branches are grown, cut off this Plant to live by it self.

Another way is to cut the Root through a little distance from the Tree, with a cleanly slop down-wards, and raise up the butt-end of the Root, so cut off till it be a little above the surface, as for Root graffing hereafter discribed, level in and trade the Earth again: so shall the piece left at the Tree send furth young Roots, and the Root so cut and raised send out a Top.

Better Earth for Bulbs and other Roots, will assist them to put forth Suckers.

Cutting the Tops of Fibrous Rooted-herbes, in growing-time will help them to off sets, and to last long too.

The season for severing off sets of Hardie-trees that lose the leaf, is latter end October and beginning November, albeit you may also any time till March, weather open.

Young Tender-trees, with Hardie-greens, let the winter frost be over, and before the sap rise, April best for greens.

Bulbo and Tuberous Roots, when they have done springing i. e. their stalkes and leaves beginning to wither.

All Fibrous Rooted-herbes, when springing and before they run up to Flower, albeit you may Plant many after the Flower is past, Stalkes end leaves cut, and they springing a Fresh. But the first spring is best.

If drought, Water Shrubs, and Fibrous Rooted Plants, upon their first Planting, at least shade from the Ensuing scorchings, by covering the surface with some vegitable or leitter and Water through the same if needful.

And though you must Water Tubro, and Bulbo Roots, in drought once in two three dayes; yet be sparing, and defend them from too much Raines.

5. To propagate by cuttings, is to cut off the branch or stem of a Plant, and to set it in the Earth without Roots.

Strip it of leaves and branches, Plant deeper than these with Roots, and in a rich and moist soil, keeping it watered and shaded, Untill Rooted; cut off their Tops save Greens, as if your cutting be 12 Inches long, let 9 be under, and 3 above ground.

The better to effect their Rooting, (if a hard substance, as Yew, Quince, &c.) Twist there ends a little or cleave them a piece: If tender Plants of great Pith as Jasmines, July-flowers, &c. Cut only at a joynt or knot, and plant them: If large stems of Pithy Trees, as Poplars &c. Sharp their ends down to a point, reserving the bark whole on one side.

If stock July-flowers, slit the Bark near the end in several parts round the Stem, fold up the Bark so cut, and taking the peel'd part close off, Plant the same with this Bark spread as you do a Root.

The time of planting cuttings is, (if Trees & Shrubs,) a little before they Spring, and if Herbes, when springing, as above for off-sets: and let the Stems of July-flowers, and Wall-flowers be well shot i. e. something firme, and take such as has not had a Flower.

6. To increase by laying is to bend down some branch to the ground, and with a hooked stick thrust into the ground, stay the same in its place, and cover with earth of deepness as you see fit: let the soil be good, watered and shaded in drought, and from scorching Sun sheltered in Winter, if needfull.

To force their Rooting (if July-flowers) Prune off the under and withered leaves, and cut it at a joynt into the pith (i. e. half way through) and slit it up to the next joynt, thrust down the cut part Gently into the ground, making it fast, cover as before. If Trees and Shrubs, prick the rind full of holes at the place interred, or cut away the Bark round at the same place: but if the branch be small, use it as July-flowers, and if any refuse, ty them hard and fast above the slit with a piece Pack-threed or Wyre, to stop the sap in its course, that it may provide for Rooting. Cut off all their Tops as [Page 60]you lay them, except Greens and some very Pithy Trees.

The time for laying all Trees and Shrubs that lose the leaf, is October, as also March, if secured from drought. All Greens in April, which therefore must be shaded. July flowers in March, April, or July.

The Trees and Sherubs will be Rooted that time twelve moneths at which time transplant them. the July flower layed in March may be transplanted in July, or if layed in July transplanted next March or April.

7. Ciruomposition is in all cases, as laying, save only that the earth must be raised up to the branch, because it will not bend down to it. Therefore fasten a Pot, Basket, old Hatt or the like on the Tree (by a stake or some supporter) let it have a hole in its bottome, through which you must put the branch to be propagated, and then fill the Pot with rich earth, (having ordered the branch as be­fore to cause it Root) and Water it often; willow earth or Rotten willow sticks at the bottom of the Pot helps to retain the moistuer. I have effected this with clay and Cowes dung well mixt (after part of the Bark has been taken off round) clapt about with a double or triple swadling of Straw, or Hay Roaps.

This is a midsummer as well as Spring-work, and very notable for to propagate such as can scarcely be otherwayes obtain'd.

8. Graffing is to take a cyon or twig of atree and place into another (call'd the stock) fit to receite the same that the inward Bark, or rind of Both may Joyn & saps unite, &c. Whereof there be several wayes, as,

First of Graffing in the clift, saw off the head of the stock in a smooth place, about half a foot above ground, for Dwarffs and Wall-trees; as also for Standard, Aple, and Pear, (for they will shoot up for a body) but betwixt 3 and 4 foot for Standard-cherrie, and Plum. Pare smooth its head Ragled by the sow, then cleave it a little beside the pith, and with your Pen-knife cut away any jags, roughness, or blackness that remaines after cleaving on each side the clift within; then prepare the graff by cutting on both sides [Page 61]from some knot or bud in forme of a wedg suitable to the clift with little shoulderings, not Ragling the end: for if the bark be raised at the tail or lower end of the graff, (especially the Cherrie) Impeds its growing, cut off its Top about 2 Inches above the shoulderings close behind a leaf-bud; then open the clift with the Graffing Iron, set the graff (or two Graffs if the stock be great) in the clift, so as the inward part of the rind of the Graff may joyn exactly & close to the inward part of the Bark of the stock, and if it Pinch, as great stocks will, ty it not as you must do the smaller: or put in a little wedg Gently to keep it, take a Slice­bark (from the cut-off head) and cut a hole therein, as it may slide on, & joyn round the butt of the Graff, and cover the stock close over in forme of a hawks hood, lastly cover with clay tem­pered with Horse-dung, that hath a little short leitter in it, or with soft wax for smaller stoks: this is to preserve it from cold & drying-winds, and from wet which harms most.

Note, if the stock stand perpendicular, set the Graff on the West-side: if not, then place it on the upperside: if you fear winds support them with sticks as Splinters to a broken bone.

Unbind, when you find their bands harme them, towards midsummer, at which tyme top such as has shot so large as to be in danger of breaking with the winds, especially them Graf­fed in the Bark, hereafter discribed.

Pull up Suckers, close and cleanly from the Roots: also Rub off buds that appear on the stock. Graffs cannot thrive or prosper, if the stoks be uncleanly or illthriving, and this is oc­casion'd through bad training.

Another way of clift-Graffing is, to cleave the Graff and not the stock. Thus: prepare the stock and Graff as for shoulde­ring (next discribed,) then with the Pen-knif, cleave the inward face of the Graff in the cut part, and cut up the stock with a slop, so that one lip of the clift-cyon may by bound on the one side of the stock, and the other longer lip on the outside, as in shouldering.

The Grauff sits here, as on a sadle, with a leg on each side the stock, [Page 62]and therefore will better resist the Winds; as also the wound caused by the clift, will soon recover. I have them wholly healed the same year, wherein I Graffed them.

Shouldering is to cut off the head of the stock, and smooth it, as at first; then cut the Graff from a knot, or bud on one side sloping about ane Inch and half long, with a shoulder, but not deep, that it may rest on the head of the stock. the Graff must be cut from the shoulder smooth and even, sloping gradually, that the lower end be thin: place the shouldering on the head of the stock, and mark by the end of the cut part of the Graff, and cut away so much Bark of the stock as the Graff did cover; then place both together, that the cut parts of both may joyn and saps unite one on the other: bind them close together with bass, and hood them with clay tempered with dung or wax, as before.

Graffing in the Bark may be used in greater stocks, or in re­graffing of old trees, and is only for aples; because later in per­forming, which may be the latter end April, when the Bark of the stock will peel: for when both stock and Graff is prepared, (as in shouldering) instead of cutting away some Bark of the stock; for receiving the Graff you must slit it on the South-side from the top allmost as long, as the sloped part of the Graff, and loosen the Bark at the top of the slit with the point of the half round wedg, (made a purpose tapering down-wards to a point) which also thrust down between the Bark and stock, to make room for the Graff; but first cut a little Bark at the thin end of the slope of the Cyon, that it double not in going doun, yet leave it with a sharp edg; and because when the Cyon is put in, it will bear the Bark hollow from the stock nick or slit, the Bark on each side the cyon, so that it may fall close to the stock and to the edges of the cyon; then bind and cover, as before.

Graffing by approach, is good for these that holds not well o­therwayes: but herein the stocks must be placed so near the Tree, (where the graffs are) that the branch may reach it; then may you clift or shoulder-graff the twig you mean to propagate, into the stock; and as soon as graff and stock do unite and at incorporated together, [Page 63]cut off the cyon or graff underneath, close to the graffed place, that it may subsist by the stock only.

Root-graffing is, to take the twig of any Tree you mean to propa­gate, and a piece Root of the same kind (cut and Raised up a little as in sect 4.) and graff them by shouldering, uniting the buttends of graff and Root, causing the rind of the Root Joyn to the rind of the graff, and so bind them: the next year they may be Transplan­ted to nurserie; these will be easily dwarffed, & readily hold, be­side that the defect of Stocks ar supplyed, and they fit for transporta­tion. [...] There be many other wayes, but these nam'd ar the most material.

The time of graffing is, when the sap beginnes to stirr in the spring; you must begin earlier with Cherries, Plumes, some later with Pears, ending with Aples.

Choise not your graffs from such Trees as ar ill-Bearers, neither from such as has not come to bear at all, but from constant and well bearing Trees, and the fairest and fullest of buds thereon: let them have a piece of the precedent years shot, whereof make the tail and shouldering Immediatly below the butt of young wood; and if the stock be large, make the graffs wholly of the lasts years shot; and such (having blowing buds actually upon them) I have seen bear fruit the same year. But some old bearing Trees yields no graffs: wherefore you may cut out some great branch, that it may shoot a­new, or rather take off the same branch by circumposition and plant; the which new Tree may furnish you with graffs. Cut your graffs e're they sprout, and keep them or carry them, their ends in clay, or dry in a box, their tops cut off.

9 Inoculation, differs from the former wayes of graffing, and most proper for Apricoks and peaches: any sort will more readily hold by this than by graffing, except Cherries; they come quick­ly to be a Tree: for I had a plum shoot above 6 foot, 10 Inches the first year; and thô they miss, yet the stock is not the worse. Therefore.

In some convenient and smooth part of the stock (at the same hight as for graffing) with the penknife cut the rind overthwart, and from the midle thereof gently slit the bark about an Inch long in for­me of. a T, not wounding the stock; then nimbly prepare the bud by cutting off the leaf till a little of the tail, then slit the bark, on each side a little distance from the bud, and about half Inch a­bove and below the same, sharp that end below that it may the more easily go down, and having a quill, cut more than half away a­bout an Inch long at the end, (for dividing the bud and rind from the stalk) therewith take it off dextrously and leave not the Root be­hind: for if you see a hole under the bud on the inside, the Root is gone, cast it away and prepare another. when the bud is ready, then with a bone (made half round and sharp at the point tapering on the one side) raise the bark or rind on each side the slit carefully, not hurting the inner rind, and with care put in the bud, thrusting it down till its top Joyn with the cross cut: then bind it close above and below the bud with dry'd Rushes or bass. Or,

You may slit the bark of the stock upwards from the cross cut. Or,

Cut the edges of the bark about the bud oblong squair, and the bark of the stock fit to receive the same. Or

Reserve ¼ of this squair piece bark of the stock untaken off at the upper end, which must be raised, that the shild may slide up betwixt the same and the stock; and so bind gently, as before.

The time for Inoculation is, when the sap is most in the stock, namely from June till August, neer a moneth after unbind i. e. cut through binding and bark with a gentle slit on the back side of the stock, leaving the binding to fall away of its own accords: at which time you will see who holds. In March following, cut off the head of the stock 4 Inches above the bud, and that time twelve moneths the stub too, that it may heal over the wound. you may prune as graffes, and pull up suckers &c. See Chap: 4. for more.

Choise buds from good bearers, as before, take them from the strong and well growen shoots of the same year, and from the big­gest end of the same, and if you must carry them farr, first cut off [Page 65]their leaves, and top of the Stalks and wrap them in moist leaves or grass.

This much at present in general for time and manner of the seve­ral wayes of propagation.

10. In planting all plants prune their Roots, that is, Top them a little with a sharp Knife except Asparagus. Also cut their heads ex­cept Greens, and Tops of Forrest-trees ordain'd for Timber, yet the Side-boughes must, that the head may be proportion'd to the Root.

Plant no Trees deep; (albeit some deeper than other) when their Roots runs near the surface, there they receive the beneficial in­fluence of Sun and Showres, that makes vegetables fair and Fruit­full.

Lay leitter or the like above ground the Compass of their Roots, especially the first year of planting▪ and indeed all plants require some shelter & shade with Moisture, when first planted, till they get Rooting and strength.

Cut the leaves and stalks of flowers and herbes, when past flower or yealded seed, nor at any tyme suffer too many, rather purge them in tyme▪ no more branches, flowers, fruits on any tree, or plant, than the root can nourish perfectly.

Neither plant and sow every year the same plants, on the same Ridg or Bed: for it Improves them to be changed, see more ful­ly planting, pruning, preserving, &c. in their respective pla­ces following.

CHAP. II. How to Cultivate, and prepare grounds.

1. HAving shew'd the several wayes of propagating plants, it is also most requisite that you prepare the ground for effectuating the same. And that is in the first place,

To trench it, viz. Begin at one end of the ground, (you mean thus to culture and open) a trench from one side to the other, thereof 3 or 4 foot broad, and from one to two foot deep, as the qualitly of the ground admits and plants require (therefore li­quorish must have deeper,) this being open, measure off other 4 foot parallel at its side, turne that into the open trench, with the turf or surface in the bottome, and the clean earth on the top; the filling whereof emptieth an other, therefore cut off other fo­wer foot and turne that in as before; thus trench by trench till the whole be finshed. I presume you carryed the earth of the first trench to fill the last, or otherwayes filled hollowes ther­with, and left the last trench open, (if convenient) for recei­ving weeds. Or if the ground be hollow in the midle begin there, and trench both wayes to help the level; if high in the midle, begin at both sides or ends till the two open trenches meet at the hight, for the same reason.

The latter end of harvest the ground is softest for trenching, and it lying all Winter open to the weather is thereby meliora­ted. For as trenching doth well prepare hard, barren, and un­toil'd ground, se doth it such as is exhausted by long and uns­kilfull usage. and if at every trenching you apply proper manures mixt with the second spading, or under the last shovelling, and in 5 years retrench, it will become to your wish, for all gar­dens, and plantations.

2. The next excellent way of preparing ground, is fallowing; begin as soon as you reap the crop, but let the ground be some­thing [Page 67]moist, albeit you should stay for a showre, if this be not late in Autumne, you may fallow in November: especially if stiff ground and restirre in March or April when you plant or sow; and al­beit you should neither plant or sow it that year, keep it clean of weeds in summer by hawing, &c. and at Autumne fallow again. but as in trenching so in this work you should mix with proper soil.

Make use of the English fashion of spades which are now com­mon, and let every two delvers, have a shoveller to cast up the small that falls in bottom of the furrow, and the Delvers should turne up the point of the spade, and nimbly break and chop all the clods throughly; this is very material as well as the through mixing of the manures with the soil: So that mixing, stirring, restirring, fallowing is most pertinent for the cold, chil­led, barren Rugged-natur'd-ground in Scotland all which softens and tenders it, and so fits it for nourishing good seed and plants, as I can tell by experience, therefore.

3. I advise our Husband-men also to the fallowing of their land, as one; flitfolding the same, as a second; Watering, or overflowing land, as a thrid, burning the Turf as a fourth, draining excessive moisture, as a fifth; applying proper soils and manures, and that at proper seasons, as a sixt; laying the land to rest, as a seventh; and above all, inclosing and planting about their land, as the last, and best improvement.

Example: At the Autumnal fallowing, delve, or Plow deep, and apply hot unrotted and uncompound dungs and manures: at spring re-plow or re-delve, and apply such dungs and manures as has layn mixed and rotted with Earth; then Mix, Rake, or Har­row. The summer following is to destroy the weeds, and may be done by Turf, Plough or by hawing.

The Hushbandmens flitfolding is equivalent to Gard'ners co­vering the sur­face, especially of dry and barren ground with leitter, &c. The dung and urine of Sheep and cattle washes evenly into ground, and should be turned down by the summer, [Page 68]and Autumnal fallowing, lest its substance exhaust by Sun and Air, (except that for grass, then only harrowed with a bush of thorns) instead whereof Gard'ners should top their coverings of leitter with a little Earth or Sand, and at Autumne delve all down together.

Husbandmens watering is by Running Plough-furrowes (and trenches where needful) alongst or cross their land, so as the water may gently sweem over the whole: this in the Winter, on dry and barren grounds, which leaves Sulphureous pingui­dity behind it, and strongly improves either for grass or corn; but that this Husbandry ought as well to be practised on wet grounds, is evident, that the Running of this carryes away the sowr qua­lity of the other. I shall speak of Gard'ners watering more par­ticularly.

Burning land is, to pare its surface with the Turf Plough and lay the same in heaps to burn; and so spreads the ashes: but if moss and heath, set fire through, without turfing it; this destroyes the noxious sowr nature and the salt remains in the ashes, for the strengthening the Spirit of the Earth.

Draining the wet, bogie or dropsical ground is, by trenches a little deeper than the Spring, (how deep soever) and then ap­ply lyme, soot, ashes, pigeons dung, &c As for the abounding of superficial water, that is easily helped by common watersowers, or in some grounds by sinking holes down to the channel.

As the Husbandman should have his land layed out or divided into several closes, some for corn, some for medow, and others for pasture: so when he has taken 5, 6, or 7 crops of corn, he should lay it out for pasture, otherwayes it will wear out of heart; and likwayes the pasture must be plowed up for corn, especially when it beginnes to grow mossie.

The way that the Gard'ner turns his ground to rest, is by trenching and retrenching, whereby it can never wear out: al­beit he also observes to change the crops as well as the Husband­man.

How to Inclose and plant about your land see Chap. 4.

4. Among all the Varieties of soils, that next the surface of them is best, because prepared by the Influence of Sun and Showers,

That called a loam or light brick Earth is the most natural ground for gardens and plantations; strong Blew, White, or Reid clayes are worst: but the nearer they be to a mixture of loam (or if they have stones naturally in them) they ar the better; also, the nearer gravelly or sandy grounds incline to loam, so much the better. therefore if your ground be stiff, trench with ferns, straw, bean-ham, thatch, leitter, Earth under woodstacks, small sticks, &c. If gravelly or sandy, then trench and mix with loam or the upper part of clay, the Turf of both is good.

If strong clay, trench and mix with fat sand, highway Earth that hath drift sand in it, Rubish of buildings, Lime-Rubish, gravel. And if it be for gardens or orchards, enrich it with dungs mixt with drift-sand or light mouldheaped up stratum superstratum i. e. laying by laying. And if the ground be cold, the more pi­geons and poultrie dung you put in it, the lighter and warmer it will be. Or make Stratums of Earth, dung and unslaked lime­stones to ly a year, and then apply this composition, which has been hitherto a great secret: therefore prize it.

Binding grounds, which will not Rake as you delve, if dry and hard, trenching and fallowing exposeth them to be softned by weather, as is said: But if wet and tough, mix with Ashes, sea-Sand, &c. In Culturing.

For preparing my composts, I use a pit (wherein somtimes I make a hot-bed) oblong, about 4 foot deep of length and breadth, as I can get dungs, Vegetables, and soils to fill it: here to lay all Kindes or sorts with Stratums of Earth, as horse, neat, Sheep, Pigeons, and Poultrie dung, ferns, weeds, leaves, soot, ashes, sticks, saw-dust, feathers, hair, horns, bones, urine, scou­ring of pondes, ditches, blood, pickle, brine, sea-water, the the cleansing of House of Office, &c. Let them ly a year at least, [Page 70]but not above two: then take them out and there Stirre, Air, mingle and work them with fresh Earth or by themselves, as you have occasion, till they become sweet and of an agreable scent; (yet retaining their vertue) this frees them from the noxious qualities they otherwayes retaine, and consequently not so apt to gender or produce Worms, Weeds, and Mushroms in­stead of wholsome and pleasant plants, fruits, and Roots for the table.

5. Observe what manures are proper for the soil, as, all hot-dungs and manures are proper for cold, stiff, and moist grounds: so all rotten and cold dungs and manures are proper for dry and hot gro­unds. All manures that retaines moisture are for poor, Sandy and Gravelly soils

As, Horse-dung for stiff and cold ground; Sheeps for hot and dry; Ashes for cold, stiff and moist; old Woolen-rags for poor dry; Lyme most excellent for moorish and heatly land; Hair of Beasts for dry and stiff grounds; pigeons and poultrie dung for cold and moist; Rotten saw dust for dry; Rubish of buildings for stiff, cold grounds; Salt for cold and moist; use it moderately, it destroyes vegetables on dry ground, especially at first, but when melted by Winter Raines, it fertilizeth: Some has sowen it on moist, moorish land to great advantage, for being farr from the Sun we have little volatile.

6. In your applications you are to consider, that Rotten dungs and manures are proper for Trees and such slow growing plants, and unrotten dungs and manures for Annualls, they being quick of digestion.

Let not the Root of any Tree stand on dung, farr less unrotten dung which burns them; but upon prepared and proper soil, and composed, well mixed, aired, stirred or fallowed. Most fit is the clean­sings of streets and highwayes together, with the mud and scouring of pondes and ditches, if first layed on heaps in the open Air to rott and sweeten, and if you mix it with stratums of Lyme that adds much to its goodness and fertility.

Forrest-trees require not so much dung as Fruit-trees, but well mixed and fallowed soil.

Kitchen Herbes and Roots requires very fat, light, warme and well cultured ground.

Flowers and fine plants cannot endure soil too rank with dung, neither can they prosper if it be poor; but fresh, clean Earth with rotted neats dung well beaten and mixed together, and a little rot­ten willow Earth a little below the Roots: here comes in that deli­cate soil, the Turf of the pasture mixt with a little Lyme, Cowes and Sheeps dung, well rotted and mingled as before. See more par­ticularly what soil each kind or sort of plants delights in or loves best, in their respective Chapters and Sections following.

7. As for making the hot-bed for raising early and tender plants, dig a pit (4 foot deep, and of length and breadth, as you have occa­sion) in a convenient and warme place, lying well to the Sun and sheltered from winds (which you may help by art, if not so natu­rally) fill it with dung and leitter from the Stables, about a sour­thnights gathering, (some makes it of Barley-straw, or the same mixt with bran, because it keeps heat long, and its heat not so excessive nor so noisome to plants as dung) and when well Tread, and even on the Top, lay about 4 Inches thick of rich, light (but fresh and clean) sifted mould thereon: arch it over with sticks, and cover with matts 4 or 5 dayes to cause it heat, then uncover and give it Air a day or two, that its violent heat may pass; then sow your seeds, and cover the bed again And the next day if you find the bed over hot give it more Air, if too cold cast some Straw on the covering untill the heat returne; so by airing and covering you may keep it in a constant temper: when the Seeds come up, give them Air to dry the moisture raised by the heat of the bed. How to cover the choice with Glasses, see Chap. 6. Sect, 1. But as there is great trouble in rightly ordering this sort of hot-bed; so here remedied by a better, which is only to fill and tread the pit full of new dung and leitter, (not covering it with Earth) and place wooden cases therein, about 9 or 10 Inches deep and about 3 foot broad, (having wood-handles [Page 72]at the ends) boar them full of Auger or Wimble holes at the bot­tome, fill them with the foresaid earth; and therein sow your seeds: and these cases and the earth in them will be kept warme during the whole season, wherein a hot-bed is necessary▪ for if it lose heat add fresh dung and leitter under, about and betwixt the cases; (there is Dew on the Glasses, while the heat remains, but if exhausted, they will be dry) consequently the trouble of transplanting from one hot bed to another is hereby saved. Provide a shelter over the whole, if you please, and frames of Glass over some of the inside cases, where there is most need; others you may leave open, as your Seeds re­quires. By this your pit and cases are every year ready to your hand, requiring only a supply of fresh dung. But this pit will be so much the more excellent, if lyn'd round at the sides with brick: and where you cannot conveniently sink it for Water, you may build the same above ground. And when this pit is empty it will be also ready for wintering of Flower Pots with July-flowers, &c.

8. In watering plants, use not well-water, especially for ten­der plants, neither Rivers that run long and quick on sharp gra­vel: these yields no nourishment to plants, but rather chills them; therefore if you must use such, let them stand sometime in the Sun and open Air, uncovered in tubs, mixt with dung, and powr it off the dreg when you use it. let the quantity and quality of the dung be according to the nature of your plants (as if great growers and require much heat, put horse or pigeons dung into the wa­ter, but for the more durable put Sheeps dung) remembering if your ground be bad, to add the more dung.

When dung lyes above ground about any plants, (as I use to do with Trees, Artichocks, &c.) The water descending through the same is very relishing to the Roots, if you powr the water at a little distance round the Tree: for when lashed on the stem, it washeth the Earth from the Roots.

Water no plants with standing, stinking Ditch-water, nor no Water that stinketh: Rain-water and large Ponde-water is excel­lent, but keep it not too long; yet if in a large Vessel, the [Page 73]oftener you Stir it, the longer it will keep sweet: so the larger your pondes or Rivers be, and the opener to the Sun and Air, and the more moving by horse, geese and ducks their Sweeming, the sweeter it will be. and if the washings of stables, streets, dung Hill-water, &c. Run into them, that adds much to their fertility, providing they have some moving, as is said, to make them sweet.

If you fear dry weather differre not too long, but water whi­le your ground is yet moist; differre not, if you mind to water at all. these that Root deepest, water most▪ and also when you do begin, Continue it so long, as you find occasion. In watering Trees and greater Plants, stir and waken the Earth a little about their Roots with a fork, so as it may drink the more evenlier, min­ding to tread firme again. And for the same cause you may sink the Earth a little in forme of a shallow dish rownd your Coleflowers, Artichocks, &c. Dip your Flower Pots in a Tub of water, to drink through the holes at the bottome.

When you water beds of small seeds with the watering pot, shake it nimbly▪ that it may fall like a showre of smal Rain. I ha­ve often made use of a handful of small Straw or Hay drawen as thatch, tyed in the midle, and at one end powred water with a Cup, and shaked the same that it appeared like a Gentle be­dewing rather than a glutting Rain.

Some that are desirous to have the ground allwayes moist a­bout any plant, do place near it a vessel with water, and in it a piece woollen clothe with one end thereof hanging out to the ground, and the other in the water: the Cloath being first wet, it will drop continually, if the end without be lower than that within the vessell: and when the water within fails, it may be augmented; If it drop not fast enough, the clothe may be increa­sed, if too fast, diminished.

Early in the Spring while the weather is yet cold, I intreat you be cautious in watering the leaves of the young and tender plants, only wet the ground about them when your plants or [Page 74]seeds are more hardy and the nights yet cold, water in the fore­noons: but when the nights are warme, or dayes very hot, then the evening is the best time.

Plant in wet, and sow in dry. I do not mean over we [...]t or over dry. Withall let them have good Air, which conduceth much to their health and life, without which nothing can live.

CHAP. III. How to propagate and order Forrest-trees.

1. OMmiting here the distinction of species, (having con­fin'd to one chapter) I shall speak briefly, yet I hope plainly of their Governement, thus:

Albeit the most of Forrest-trees may be Increased by Suckers, Layers, &c. Yet if you desire Trees worth your while, Raise them from the seed. Therefore prepare a seminary or seed-plot together with a nurserie well ordered and handsomely made up in beds, as in part 1. Chap. 5. sect. 2. and there sow and set your seeds and plants in their respective seasons; keep them clean from weeds, and water them when need is: also Earth up and dible in these cast up by the Frosts, as well as shade and shelter in time of necessity. Let them stand some but one, others two years in the seminary after they rise, then remove and plant in nurserie, a foot one way and half the other distance, or 5 Rowes in the bed (if 6 foot broad,) in straight lines, having first prun'd their Roots, especially toped the main Root that runs straight down; so shall they send furth syde or seeding Roots, and agree well with transplanting thereafter. Also proportion the head to the Root by pruning up the side boughes, reserving some smallest afterwards all the way on the body, to stop the sap in its course, that the Tree may grow great with its hight, and this will prove the best fortification against the winds.

Cut not the tops of these Trees you ordain for Timber, except some grow crooked in the nurserie; these save Greens may be fell'd near ground in the Spring or at midsummer, and train up the streigh­test shoot again to be the Tree. When they have stood 3 years at most in this nurserie, replant them at a wider distance in Spad-bit trenches, 3 foot one way and two the other, where they may stand till they be ready for planting out in your Avenues, Parks, Groves, &c. Which will be in 3 years, if thir Rules be observed. But if you think them yet too small for setting out, you must trans­plant at a wider distance, and at every remooval Top all their Roots with a sharp Knife, and thin the side-boughes for lightning the head: but do not prune up all, as is the Custome of the ignorants, whose Trees are so long, small and top-heavy, that they cannot stand; but of pruning more hereafter. If you neglect this transplanting and pruning the top Root, while young, your essayes to do it when old will prove ineffectual, nor will they ever be worth the while.

All the time that your Trees remains in nurserie, and at least the first and second year thereafter, be carefull to cleanse them from Weeds and Suckers by delving, hawing, &c. The advantage here shall soon counter-ballance the cost.

Choice your Seeds from the high, streight, young and well thri­ving Trees; and the fairest, weyghtiest, and brightest thereon: for its observed that the seeds of hollow Trees (i. e. Trees whose pith is consum'd) doth not fill well or come to perfection, as Langford sayes of Pears, concluding that the Kirnells of Fruit depend much upon the pith. And I bid you reject such as was never set by art, as Peevish parents for Children, that must be thus accommodat with uncouth lodgings as well as dyets in their travells: Its a mischief in many people that accompts all ridiculous, that they have not been bred up with or accustom'd unto, so with Trees in some respect.

2. As for the Oak, the Acorns we get from [...] puts furth a lustier shoot than ours; nor do I approve of them in natural woods, they ripe beginning October, gather them in a dry day, and lay in some open Room to dry a moneth, turning them, with a broom, then [Page 76]lay them in a couch dry sand till latter end February, dible them in the ground 2 Inches deep, 12 rowes in the bed, (if 6 foot broad;) they come up the same season, and all though they will grow on any ground, yet they grow better on the best, that is a good loamy Earth. Order them as is directed in nurserie.

The Elm that growes with a clean and taper body is best worthy your care, we have extraordinary clean and smooth barked Elms from Holland: but I think they take more paines in prefaring and making their Earth sine, which certainly is most conducible there­unto. Their Seed falls beginning of June, (thô it doth not sill every year) when they begin to sall, gather them and spread on a Clothe a little, then low them immediatly promiscuously over the bed, and very thick covered near an Inch of Earth; I had them come up within 10 dayes: they love a light Earth something moist.

The Ash seed is ripe in November and December: having spread them a little to dry, put them in a hole stratum, superstratum of Earth and Seed; take them out at Spring come twelve moneths, and sow as Elm, for now they rise; and loves a tender soil not too moist.

The great Maple, commonly, but falsly called Plan. its feed is ripe in September: sow it at Spring it, comes up that season: affects a soil with Ash or rather better.

The smaller Maple is rather for Hedg, its seed lyes as Ash.

The Beach seed ripes the end of sept: but it fills not well every year, nor at we so very plentiful of old trees, as could be wished: for that caufe we fend abroad for seed. as soon as it comes to our hand, it may be sowen, or rather keept in a couch of sand, as the great Maple till the spring, for it comes up that season: affects a light soil, no clayes.

The Walnuts, and chestunt, albeit they be fruit trees, I plant them without the orch: walls, their nuts ripes beginning of Octob: when they begin to fall take them off and rub off the outward husk, but do not weet them, then order them as accorns; they come up the first [Page 77]season and affects a hight loamy earth. I could wish for more hor­sechesnuts their seed from turkie.

The black cherrie or green is a tree that I love well in Avenues and thickets, there is a sort at Niddrie-caflle where I was born 7. miles west from Edinburgh, whose fruit is preferrable to any cher­rie: I take it to be a sort of heart, but it's a great bearer; (which pro­pertie the heart cherrie wants) they ar besl: stocks for slandard cher­ries. learned Evelen and Ingenious Cook takes notice of this tree.

Gather their fruit wheen full rip, the beginning August, eat of the fleshy part i. e. the fruit, and lay the stones to dry a little, then lay them by stratums with earth, which prefares them, if sow'd at spring to rise that season, otherwayes they ly till the next: they affect a light, sharp soil, and if you may, mix it with compost; and then it shall be for cherries of all sorts.

The wild Service, commonly called Rons-tree, their fruit ripes in Sept: which you may eat or Rub off by rolling in sand; then prepare & sow them as cherrie. They love a moist Ground or shade not wet, if you will plant them in better soil in Avenues, me thinks, they would be very pleasant when spread over with their umblefashion'd, bright Red fruit.

The Line or Lidne tree, commonly called Lym, the broad leafed with odoriferous flowers is best. the seed ripes beginning Octob: But fills not well every year with us, and indeed we have few come to any considerable perfection; yet I have seen them bear seed at Ha­miltoun, it should be a little dryed in an open Room and couched in moist sand till winter pass, and then sow'd in a little shade, for they must not be too much exposed to the scorching Sun: they come up the same season; but if not prefared through winter, they lie till the next they love a fresh loamie earth (& in planting them I advise you to cover the surface of the earth about them with leitter topt with earth the first year at least.

The horn beam may be ordered as small maple they, like a dry stiff ground they, are copsis.

The hassell and filboards seed or nuts is used as wallnuts, they de­light [Page 78]in dry banks, nor are they stately forrest trees.

The Birch is a proper tree for much of our poor, dry and barren grounds: I never raised any of them by seed in the wood, they are so plentie by suckers, &c. Many of which handsome trees I have planted succesfully.

The Beantree foil vulgarly called peascod-tree, its seed ripes in Oct. and being kept dry all winter, sown at spring comes up that season, and affects a moist Ground but sweet.

The white poplar vulgarly called Abele, its a quick grower and pleasant tree, so is Aspen; they are easilie propagated by cuttings; so the last by suckers, see chap. 1. sect. 5. They love a good soil some­thing moist.

The Alder is so propagable and loves the marshes; and so is

The willowes, Sallows, and oziers, they all affecting a moist ground and must be so kept till Rooted.

But I come to greens; as

The Pinetree and pinasters whose husks you may expose to the sun till they open & seeds fall out, to be sowen in March but if late ere they come home (they requiring the summer sun to open them) if you then sow, they cannot get drength sufficient to withstand the ensu­ing winter; therefore keep them in dry sand all winter, and sow them in the spring; For they rise that season wherein they are sowed, they love a good and tender soil, they are something tender while young, (as all greens are) the great Pine is tenderer than pinasters, and nice in transplanting. therefore observe the Rule in chap. 7. sect. 2. Shade and shalter in both extremities of heat and cold while young. But non so proper for us as

The Scots Firre, many one of their husks have I gathered any time between Jan: and latter end March, lay them on a Cloth to the Sun which opens them, to be sowen latter end Aprile, they come up that season, and loves a soil with Pinus. See how to or­der in nurserie: for they must be dibled in again the first year, as spued up by frosts; they or any Tree will grow on most sorts of grounds if well ordered, and prefared and secuted from drought [Page 79]the first year. And therefore help the ground where its not to pur­pose, (they will pay you or yours for your pains) as if you plant in gravelly or dry sandy ground, mix it with clay and turfe a large distance round about the Roots: or if in stiff and moist clayes,. trench 8 or 9 foot on each side round the compass of the Roots, ad­ding small gravel, fatt sand, &c. And plant ebb: but enough of his in the last Chapter.

The silver Firre is so ordered, only its tender while young, and subjecl: to blasting.

The Pitch Tree (as common Firre,) its a hardie Tree, and no won­der, seeing, as I am Informed, it growes by nature plentifully in. Norraway.

The Yew is also a hardie Tree, only requires some defence while young, their Berries ripes in Novem: Rub off the flesh or clam­my substance, and lay them to dry a little, (but not at the fire) then box them Stratum Superstratum of earth and seed, placing them in the shade till the spring come twelve moneths; at which time fow them, and then they spring, affecls a good soil, not stiff.

The Holly is to be used as Yew: for they ly as long; its the most proper for hedges of all the plants in the World. Next thereunto, is the Hawthorne (tho not a green) whose seed ripes in Octob: and to be used as Holly: for it riseth not till the spring come twelve mo­neths; and the better you prefare and mix the ground with Rotted dung, the larger will they shoot. Nor let any Imagine, that Holly also loves not dunged ground, nay, (say they) poor and gravelly soil; but I know the contrary by experience.

I shall speak of some shrubs in Chap: 7. for I must leave them here, and come shew you how to transplant and prune the stately forrestrees.

3. In Transplanting remove with earth about their Roots (if you can) especially greens, at least take all the Roots up a good distance from the stem, by making a Trench round, and be not hastie: then top all their Roots with a sharpe knife, (slop tending down as a horse foot) cut off all the bruised and broken parts till you [Page 80]come at firme wood, top the small Roots like hair, to make them stiff, so as they fold not, when the Earth is put in, and rott there­by: proportion the head also to the Root by thinning it, prune fide­boughs; (reserving allvayes some for tapering the Tree) these you cut, do it close and smooth by the body, slanting upwards, and they will soon overgrow the wounds, if the branch cut off be not great. Cut not the tops of Oaks, Beaches they cannot endure it, neither any Tree that you ordain for timber; albeit I have been necessitate to lop great old Trees, whose heads could not other­wayes be conform'd to their Roots, which necessarly ardimini­shed upon removal. But this is not the case of well trained Trees in anurserie.

The Rule for removing old large Trees out of woods or other pla­ces, who was never before Transplanted, is to make a trench at two sides of the Tree, distance considerable, till you can Inforce the Tree upon on side: then cut the top Root through, saving as many col­lateral Roots as you can; lessen its head, or lop it if it can suffer, and so set up the Tree again, and tread in the earth about it, as it was; let it stand 2 years to emitt fibres or feeding Roots to nurse it when Planted out.

But to my nursed trees again. When you remove, as is directed, carry them as quickly to their new quarters as you can; let the soil where you set them be as Connatural to the nurserie as nossible, see the last chap, for preparing grounds and see part 1.chap. 3, and 4. for the orderlie wayes of planting.

The best way is to make the holes a year before you plant, and in summer stirr and tune their earth, that no weeds grow thereon: make them betwixt, 12. and 18. Inches deep, and betwixt 4, and 8. foot diameter, if ordinarie trees: but if the ground be bad and not proper for the trees, then trench, mix & apply, till such become more agreeable.

When you plant, lay the surface in the bottome and fill up the hole with fine earth, till it can only admit the upper part of the root to stand level with the surface, (this is not to plant deep, for they that do; [Page 81]but cheat themselves) then set on the Root of the tree in the midle of the hole, and if no earth adhere to the same, make a little hut in the middle of small earth, and lay the roots right spread round about with your hands that nonly folded or disorderly, then put in fine small earth amongst the roots, & shake and move the tree, so that the earth may go in amongst them till no cavity or void be left to let in the air; such roots as folds raise up and level in their wonted pos­ture with your hands shovelling on more earth and tread gently, then fill one more and tread well with your heels till it be as farr filled up about as it flood in the earth be­fore, make the bulk about level on the top, and just the breadth of the hole, and it will be about half a foot above the surface if ordinary nurssed trees and good ground, you may put on the rounding string to make its edges circular and handsome, or if you will to make it like a geometrical squair, then streight lines from side to side of a thicket will make up the bulks that the whole will appear as walks and bor­dours two wayes: lay new horse dung and leitter or ferns above the bulk (so as it touch not the stem) covered with a little earth to keep it from drying, the Rains will wash in its substance and refresh the Roots, besides it keeps out summer drough and winter frofts.

The first year at leaft go through, now and then, and tread them right after winds. I am not sor slaking trees (but for training them so as they may not need it, except you drive three stakes about each tree at the out side of the bulk, then the double straw Roaps tyed from its body to all the three stakes will secure; and if you fasten cross sticks briers and thorns, here shall be a fence about each tree. Rub off buds that offer to break foorth near the Root or any place where you would not have them, (but still leave some here and there on the side to stop the sap from running too much in head) keep them clean of suckers & weeds by hawing in summer, & delving & loosening the mould about them spring and Autumne i. e. at the two equinoxi alls, and tread fast again, as fearing drought and winds.

Observing is what is said, you may expect monumental, clean and well thriving trees, if right prun'd and well Inclosed.

The time of planting, fee season for off sets Chap. 1. Sect. 4. ne­glect not your time of early planting, that is, as soon as they give over growing, and before the frosts come on, and you shall fee them farr out-strip these set in the Spring, though have often planted in the Spring through necessity, but then I was allwayes something more than ordinary carefull to defend them from the ensuing droughts, by covering their bulks and wa­tering, &c. Yet I preferre the Spring for Firr, and other such Greens, which therefore unavoidably requires the same care.

4. I shewed before how to prune in the nurserie while young now continue, when planted out whilest they be small, prune every year, when a little older once in 2 years, then once in 3 or 4. and never seldomer than in 5 or 6.

And as you prune up the body, till the desired hight leave small branches here and there by the way, that it may bring greatness with its hight, and be by consequence the more able to stand; let never a Tree get a greater head than its Root is sufficiently able to nurse and bear; neither be Rash in loping them, except, they be al­ready top-heavy, which brings crookedness; if so, cut at a crooked place, slanting upwards, clean and smooth, and train up the streigh­test shoot again to be the Tree: or rather if you can save its head by thinning and croping the branches on that side which leans i. e. the underside, thus at midsummer, and flit the Bark in the Spring, so may it grow streight and taper. Purge still the head when need­full and prune superfluities, cut off all that Cross, Rubs, Frets, and Galls on another. Permit not Trees to Fork, train them with one streight and taper body, and a handsome round Pyramidall head. And when you prune, cut close and smooth by the body or bough with the Knife, or Chissell and Mell, or if the branch be great, cut with a saw (nicking it underneath first) and smooth it with the Chissell, so will it the better heal: but if the Tree be very old and the branches great, such will never be able to overgrow the wound, therefore if you must cut such, do at a little distance from the body, the wound declining the Horizon. Thus Train pines, Firrs, Pitch, and these of the Conicall Tribe in stories only (which [Page 83]methode they naturally follow,) you may cut out some of the grea­test branches of the under storie, but so as you leave them regular or equally furnished round: so may you leave one storie, cut out the second, leave the thrid, &c. Cut not their tops, yet you may crop some of their side-boughes if the Tree be top-heavy, and afterwards as the Tree gets footing, cut these clean off.

There be two seasons for pruning such as lose the leaf: the first for these of little pith is October and November, or any time in Winter: and for them of soft wood and great hearts, and for Greens let the frosts be over, and before the sap in them rise, except Firrs and other Rosinious Trees in November, because if prun'd in March they bleed, and in September and October they have not given over growing.

The second time is midsummer, which is ordinarly about the end of June: this is a safe time to prun them of great pith and any that is unapt to bleed; but especially for cutting of young shoots of this year: extripate all such buds and shoots as you desire not to grow, and hereby you may make clean bodied Trees, albeit never so apt to break out in Side-boughes, as some Elms are. for the diseases of all Trees with their cures, see Chap. 5. Sect. 8 and 9.

CHAP. IV. Of Hedges, or Inclosures.

1. AS there is no Countrey can have more need of planting than this, so non more needfull of Inclosing: for we well know how vain it is to plant unless we Inclose.

I spoke of Brick and Stone Walls, in Part.1 Chap. 5. Sect. 5. Now for Hedges I preferre the Holly and Hautkorn, raffed from the seed, albeit there be several others, mix, not Hedges, because [Page 84]strong-growers over-growes the weak, neither fusser Briers, Bram­bles, Docks, or Thissels therein.

2. Your hollies having flood two years in the seminary and two in the nurserie, remove them by atrowall or a spade with a clod of Earth at their Roots, croping such Roots as appears Without the clod with a sharp Knife, and lessen its head by croping the side-boughes, (cut not its top) plant in made up bordures, or at the back of Ditches at afoot distance in good earth. Let them stand two years untouched except weeded, then cut their tops at a bud to make them furnish thick, and ply their side boughes to grow through other, like slicing or feathering, and next year fall to work with the Sheers, cutting both fides and top as we use to do with Box, &c. Never supporting or binding any Hedg, as is the Custome of some: plant your hollies in.Aprile, and when ready for sheers, cut in May and July therewith, and so. train them close from the bot­tom, but neither too broack nor too high.

3. The hawthorn having, sood 2 or 3 years in the seminary, pull them up and cut the ends of their Roots, and their tops within 4 Inches of the Root, and plant them within the fence or back of the ditches in the good earth, delve them in spading by spading all a­longst two rowes, a foot distance, standing in equilateral Triangles, still thickning your bordure by adding good Earth &c. Let them stand 3 years untouched, except weeding and reparing where any is dead; then fill them within half a foot of the ground, so will they shoot furth a thicket of young shoots, which next year may be train'd with the sheers, as before is instructed.

4. If you would Plant your hedge on the face of a ditch, as in wet and tough grounds, then streatch a line at both sides of the intended ditch, and ritt with the spade alongst by the same, slanting in­ward: for if the ditch be 7 quarters wide; it must; be 5 deep (sloping to a foot in breadth at the bottom) then cut the turf or sur­face of your ditch, and lay a gang or row of the first spading a­longst by the brink of the ditch (sloping at the face according to the flop determin'd, with half a foot of table intercepting, because so [Page 85]much will crumble doun by the frosts, &c.) On the top of that, lay one row of quicks, their tops standing up a little towards the ditch, cover their Roots with fine small earth, and lay another spa­ding above them, and if you will lay another row of quicks above that, every one here opposing the mid-intervall of the other, and so cover on the rest of the mould till the ditch be finished: being all­waves sure to put good earth next the quicks, thô you should bring it from some high-way or ridg of land next thereunto, and every year scour the ditches, claping it up about the quicks▪ or a farr bet­ter way is,

To cast half of the Earth that comes out of the ditches, to each hand, and quicks in both sides; accordingly this will make an In­vincible fence: for then the hedg growes up on both sides of the ditch, the gutter betwixt makes it terrible, but that I am against the common double, (which is 2 ditches near other, and the Earth that comes out of both laid betwixt them, with arow of quicks in the face of each ditch,) is because here the quicks are obnoxious to the croping of cattle; (besides they take much ground and the quicks are too much burthened with Earth,) ra­ther if you be for such, make a little space betwixt of plain ground, where you may plant the Hedg.

5. But if you would have a vow of Trees round by your dit­ches, then make these two ditches the breadth of a walk sun­drie, but parallel, and in that mid intervall plant one single row of Trees, and the two hedges at the Back of the ditches: here you have two excellent walks of shade, nor is the ground lost between thir hedges; you may have good Hay, and in large quan­tity. And in effect: this is the besd way that ever I thought upon, for Inclosing and sheltering our grounds and plantations; and you may make the Intervall betwixt these hedges wider, so as you may have two rowes of Trees.

6. Now for fencing the quicks in all the several sorts from the croping of beast, as indispensibly necessary while young.

If the Hedg be planted alonght by the back or inside of the Ditch, then the streng Ditch with its Earth easten to both sides will sence it: and if you think that not sufficient, set, stake, and raise Hedg on the top of the bank, or rather (which is indeed much better,) cuttings of Thorns set there in a spade bit trench well backed: or for want of these, back up the Ditch with Turf, which is like half Ditching. But all this time there is but one side of them fenced, and that next the pasture; therefore no beasts can come on the other side to eat the Fogage, except teathered horses: but if you make the hedg or Hedges and Trees betwixt the two Ditches (you may cast half of their Earth to each hand, and back them as is Said, which fences from all hands most elegantly. And if you plant your Hedges in the face of the Ditches, the same backing on each hand will also, fence them.

But where you plant Trees at a great distance through your fields or parks, you may fence every particular Tree by cutting a little trench round 4 foot off the Tree, and about 2 foot wide, fa­cing it handsomly up like a ditch, laying one row of Turfs or spadings above other, till it be 3 foot high from the surface, backing them with the small Earth or shovellings, battering in­ward to the Tree; here the Tree must be high planted: tho more the Soyl inclyn to wet, or the sourer that be, plant so much the higher above the surface; you may stick some Briers, or Thorns on the top of this Tump.

CHAP. V. How to propagate, and order Fruit-trees.

1. THE only Fruits for this Countrey are Aples, Pears, Cher­ties, Plumes, (and Apricocks, and peaches at South-side of walls,) Currans, Goosberries, Rasberries, &c.

Before I begin, I shall premise some observations on Grassing, &c. a sure means to obtain Fruits of the desired species, and that in short time: for by taking the twig or bud of such a sort as is a good fruit, and bears well, and Graff or Inoculate into a proper stock, you ar sure to have the same fruit; because the Graff domi­nires, albeit it may have a little smack of its stock whereon now Graffed. And you may expect fruit, because it may actual­ly, have the fruit buds, as being taken from a bearing tree. But if you sow the seed, they will be long e're they come to bear, and at length perhaps bring no fine fruit, and for the seed of Graffed Trees, they will not bring the same fruit; Peats, and Aples will rather bring a Fruit of the nature of the stock, whereupon they have been graffed; and although you should take a Cyon of the same, and graff in its self, that will not alter the Fruit, nor better the Tree, except a little check its aspiring, which may as well be effected by pruning.

Wee can also be sure of the desired fruit, by cuttings, layings, and circumposirion; but such are allwayes Dwarfish and short li­ved Trees, as wanting a main Root which all seedlings have. Hence ariseth one reason, why stocks should be raised from the seed Suckers are not so clean and lustie; therefore not so able to nurse the graffs, and they are apt to send Suckers again. Only I look upon plum Suckers as very good, because when they Spring off a Root at a distance from the stem, they strick good Root of themselves, very much resembling seedlings. Moreover you may [Page 88]graff on a Root or a stock Sprung off that Root as in Chap, 1. Sect. 4. & 8. which is near equal to a seedling.

The seed of crabs, or wild Aples. and pears, may be fit to make stocks of such Trees designed for the fields, or more Rug­ged grounds; but for a cultivated soil I would choice the seeds of finer fruits. And so the great White-plum is the best stocks for Apricocks, or for want thereof any other White-plum with great shoots, albeit it doth on any plum: but we reject it self for a stock, as being too spongie and not so durable. But Peaches and nectarins, takes only best upon Peach stocks, so cherries on geens, and Plumes upon plumes.

Goosberries, and currans, needs not graffing; they do well by Suckers, layers, and cuttings.

To make Dwarse Aples, Graff or bud on the paradise or any that hath Burry-knots, Codlings, Redstracks, &c. Dwarse Pears on the Quince: but no Pear holds well on it (that I have tryed,) save Red Pear Achans and longavil; but you may re-graff for varieties. And if you be very curious for these stocks (which; I am not) you may cut them at the Spring, when ready for graffing, within 2 Inches of the ground, and at August come twelve moneths Inoculate in that young shoot, and perhaps they will prosper the better, but I think graffing in the Roots of Pears, will produce Dwarfs.

Dwarfe-cherries on the morella, or on the common Red cher­rie. Or on that Red geen spoken of in Chap. 3. Sect. 2. which is more Dwarffish than the black.

2. The mellow, warme and light ground is for fruits; and allthough the best, warmest and lightest land, yields most excel­lent corn, yet the strong, stiff, cold, moist yields not so good fruits, plants, Grass, Hay, &c. Aples affect a pretty rich loamy soil, tho they will bear in clay mixt with lym, dung, and Turff.

Pears will prosper well enough where the soil is mixt with Gra­vel. But both Aples and Pears are better relished in warme gro­unds that are not over moist, than in cold and wet: yet there be some grounds hath swect moisture, others soure; Which last is very bad, [Page 89]and therefore must be helped by draining and application of proper Medicine, see Chap. 2.

Cherries, Plumes, Apricocks, Peaches affect a light, sharp soil throughly prefared and mixed with Rotted manures. As to their propagation,

By Graffing are Aples, Pears, Cherries, Plumes, Quince, Medlar, Wallnut, Chesnut, Filbeard, Service, &c.

By Inoculation or budding ar Apricocks, Peaches, Neclarines, Almond, Goosberries, Currans, Aples, Pears, Plumes, Wal­lnuts, &c

By Suckers, are Currans, Goosberries, Barrberries, Ras­berries, Quince, Vine, Fig, Mulberrie; its the white that feeds the Silk-worme: But that's to little purpose here.

By layers and circumposition are all sorts.

By cuttings are Currans, Goosberries, Vine, Quince, Aples, especially these with Burrie-knots.

By Nuts and Stones are Wallnuts, Chesnuts, Filbeards, Al­mond, Peach, Plum, Cherrie.

By Kirnells or seeds are Aples, Pears, Quince, Goosberries, Currans, Barberries, Vine, Mulberrie, &c.

I have told whereupon to Graff Aples, Pears, Cherries, Plumes, Apricocks, Peaches; and as for the Quince you may Graff it on it self or on the Hawthorn, Almonds on it self, Medlars on Pears, or on the Service, Filbeards on the Hassell; Service, Wallnut, Chesnut, Goosberrie, Curran, all on their own Kind.

3. In raising the stocks observe that,

Aple, and Pear seed, must be separate from the Fleshy substance and spread to dry a little especially the Cyder-marie, lest it heat; you may roll it in Sand to help the separation: keep it in a couch of dry Sand till Winter pass, then sow them as soon as the frosts are over; they come up that season.

For raising Cherries or Greens see Chap. 3. Sect. 2. Peach, Plum, and Almond-stones must be used in all cases as Cherries, only you may break the Peach Stones.

Use the Quince-seed as Aples. As for the rest, I have shewed how they are increased in the last Section, and how to performe the several wayes in Chap. 1.

But you must prepare a seminary and nurserie, as before for Forrest-trees, see Chap. 3. Sect. 1. sow every species by themselves, keep them clean of weeds, and the next or second year after the seeds rise, if they shoot lustily, (draw out the biggest first) transplant them into the nurserie in single rowes 2 foot intervall, and half a foot in the rowes, for conveniency in hawing, graffing, pruning, &c. and observe to prun Root and side-branches in planting, as I directed with Forrest-trees; only when you have got them to a convenient hight for graffing, you may cut their tops to make their bodies swell the sooner, albeit this be not permitted with Forrest-trees. However graff and inoculat, while the stocks are young, e're they be an Inch Diameter, and they will sooner heal the wound: let them have a years settlement in the nurserie before you graff; but you may inoculat that same insuing summer after planting, especially if they be very free and lustie. Next year after grassed, remove them to a wider distance, viz. 3 foot one way and a foot the other, Prun there Roots at every removal, and enter a pruning, that they may provide for a well shapen head, cut them near now while young, if you would have all their branches of an equal greatness, and of order proper, as anon. I shall inform you.

In setting your stocks in the nurserie, I presume you will set every kind by themselves. i. e. Pears with Pears, and Aples with Aples, &c. And when you graff or bud, write down in your nurserie-book their species as they stand, viz. begin at the end of such a nurserie, and say the first row is graffed, with such a sort and so furth: and if you have more than one in a row, then set in a stake betwixt each species, and so write thus, from such an end of such a row; to the first stake is so many of such a sort or species; thence to the second stake so many, of another, &c.

4. When you transplant Fruit-Trees into orchards, do, as I directed with Forrest-trees in groves; plant not deep, neither [Page 91]trench too deep; but tempt the roots by baiting the surface with dungs to make them run ebb within the reach of the Sun and shoures. Therefore mix the Earth in the holes (which should be 6 or 8 foot diameter) with Rotted neats dung and Earth well turned, sweetned and Prepared as in Chap: 2. Cover, delve, and haw their bulks as in Chap. 3. Sect. 3. and for further impro­ving and keeping your Fruit-trees in good case, see Sect. 6. of this Chapter, prune their Roots at every removal, as Forrest-trees, (ex­perience forbids me to make exception of the Peach or any other, as some doth) And proportion their heads to their Roots by pruning: but here note, that, as Forrest-trees arc train'd up high bodies and unlopt heads, so Fruit-trees with low bodies, their heads lopt and branches topt; therefore easily proportion'd, as aforesaid.

Standards of 4 years old, may be planted out of nurseties into Orchards, Wall-trees of 2 years old.

The season of the year is as soon as they give over growing; (if the leaves be not off, cut them, saving a little tail of their stalks) its true you may plant any time in Winter, weather open, but rather let the frosts be over, and the spring Approaching, if you have missed the fore-end of Winter, which is the better season.

For standards arc Aples, Pears, Cherries, Plumes, Goos­berries, Currans, Barberries, Quince, Wallnut, Chesnut, Fil­beards, Service: But I think all these deserves not a place in the orchard.

For Walls are Apricocks, Peaches, Nectarines, Almond, Vine, Fig, Currans, Aples, Pears, Cherries, Plumes, &c. But you need not take up much with Almond, Vine, Fig, nor Nectarine

On the south side of the Wall plant Apricocks, Peaches, Nec­tarines, Vine, &c. On the east and west sides Cherries, Plu­mes, Aples, Pears, &c On the north side Plumes, some Pears, as great Bargamor, some Aples, Currans especially, and Rasps, &c.

When you elect them in the nurserie, hang sticks tyed at them [Page 92]figured, and write the same figure on the Paper at their name to distinguish their species; and afterwards being planted write them, as they stand.

5. Begin betimes to prune your Fruit-trees, spare them not while young: reduce them into a good shape, and order while such; so will they not only Soon over-grow the wounds, their bran­ches being but small, but also when they should come to bear fruit, you shall not need to cut so much, only purge them of superfluities; and this is the way to make Trees Fruitful as well as pleasant.

Some Ignorants are against pruning, suffering their Trees to run and Ramble to such a head of confusion, as neither bears well nor fair: for the Root is not able to maintain such, farr less fruit too; and therefore are their fruit so small and Imperfect; in the mean time the Tree spends its strength, and so cannot live long, nor make good service in their time: yea somtimes the Root is not so much as able to bear such monstrous heads; I know one windy day prostrate above half a score such in a little or­chard.

Others again that are for pruning usually runs on the other extream, by cutting too much, and untimely; and some spa­ring what they should cut, and cutting such as they ought to spare: but the general errour even amongst the learned is, that they spare them While they should prune, viz: the very first and second year in special, yea the first 5 or 6 years; and then they fall a massackering: at which time the branches being growen so­me of them greater than other, who now runs away with all the nourishment from the smaller; insomuch that no man can redu­ce them to order again, having thus neglected the time. Albeit you should endevour it by cutting deep, or exterminating these great branches, which I confess is the next remeed; but then as these wounds brings cankers, hollowness, &c. So doth the work retard their bearing fruit. And indeed its about the time that Trees ordinarly begin to bear fruit, that these unskilful [Page 93]men begin to prune: and the more they are thus cut in the head, the more they spring out to wood, and the less fruit they beat. But experience has taught me to begin, While young.

And when you do begin consider on the hight of the body, (for as high Trees are unprofitable, so too low Trees in orchards are inconvenient) for Aple and Pear standards two or three foot, plume and cherrie 3 or 4 foot, Dwarff and Wall-trees half a foot; there cut the top that Runs Straight upwards, making it to spread out in branches round, suffer no branch to aspire be­yond other in hight, nor any to cross, Rub, or gall one another; and whatever branch or twig you cut off, cut close and clean by the body or branch (except in the case of old Trees and great bran­ches as I observed in pruning Forrest-trees) and in toping of branches cut close and smooth Immediatly above a leaf bud, slan­ting upwards. And when you prun, spare the fruit buds (the full ones are them) except you see them too many; then purge by the Knife, likwayes if afterwards you find more fruit knotted than the Tree can be able to nurse to perfection, thin them in time.

But your first work is to proportion the head to the Root, by pruning; cut the tops at a convenient hight, that the Tree may grow equally furnished round; for cutting as it diminisheth, so it forms and shapes the head, insomuch as it furnisheth with new young shoots, that may be train'd, as you please.

Standards should have but four Arms breaking out for a head, o­pening equally round, these divided into branches, and again subdi­viding into twigs & that you may the better understand what to cut, you may stand under, go about, look up through the tree where you may espy superfluities: keep them clear, void, open within like a bell and level on the the top make some larger opens towards the the south for Sun beams entrance; let no branch grow cross through the heart nor shoot spring up therein; (minding alwayes to prun such as cross, Rubs and galls other as above is noted) & any branch­es, shoots, or twigs that grows not the way you would have them cut them at the place whence you think they will send furth shoots [Page 90]which may lead the way you desire them: cut close, smooth, and slanting at the back of a leaf bud tending that way; by this I bring Trees to order.

Wall-Trees especially should be cut near, while young, that they may send furth a thicket of small shoots for furnishing your walls from the bottom, equally: and if you continue to top them every year at a convenient hight (perhaps about half a foot above the last) that will make them shoot all their branches of an equal uniformity of greatness, hight, and thickness, so that no long, bair or naked branch be seen there, neither one or two great and all the rest starved small; the common fault of our wall Trees, and is occasioned through neglecting to cut while young even the first year, as is said above.

But albeit a Tree right begun and so going on, yet one years ne­glect or wrong pruning may spoil it: for as I was once pruning wall Trees, an Ingenious person standing by, said I cut them too low, alleadging thereby, the wall should be long uncovered, desiring me to cut them a little higher: I told him, that was wrong, but for to satisfie him I did cut 2 of them about 8 or 9 Inches hi­gher than I designed or should have don. The next year these two Trees left about a foot naked round, and above the same crown'd like nests while the rest was equally and orderly fur­nished; when he beheld this, his minde was changed, and I ob­leidged to cut exactly where I should have don the precedent year: which was now a little below the midle of the naked place, and this did put them several years behind the rest of bearing fruit.

You may nail them at midsummer that year of planting, and so continue to do at the seasons herafter, discribed: prepare dou­ble plancher-nails and tags of hats, (which is better than leather) shape the tags about half Inch broad, and betwixt 3, 4, and 5 Inches long, making a gash with the Knife near the ends by fol­ding, to put through the nail; then spread the Tree, laying, plying, & nailing every individual branch by it self, all at equal di­stances from other, not close in one place and wide in another, [Page 91]and let non cross other, the superfluous and these that will not ply easily, and the exuberant or lustie that Robs the rest, must be cut away.

Well plyed Trees will appear like apricocks; train, spread, ex­cept these on a low wall, which you may cause lean all one way, as half of the other: drive the nail but half way in, and on the upperside of the branch, else it will lean and gall; at every nailing alter the old nails and beware of pinching tags, &c.

The time for pruning old planted and hardie Trees, is any time betwixt the leaf falling and the Spring, but let the frosts be over before you prune the new planted young and tender, and before the sap rise, otherwayes the frosts will penetrate the wounds and make a sore: but if you must cut before the frosts, because their heads may be obnoxious to the winds, (such are ordinarly the new planted standards) then yow may cut a little, and at Spring cut off these pieces left cleanly, as before is noted. Also let the frosts be over before you prune your Wall-trees and be­fore they bud; only I use to let peaches bud furth a little e're I prune them, otherwayes pieces of their branches somtimes pe­rish after the Knife.

And besides, that you must Rub off all unnecessary buds, and pull up suckers and weeds from the Roots, you must also give all your Trees a midsummer pruning, (which is ordinarly the end of June & beginning of July) a good time to cut any shoots of this year; any shoots or buds as tend not only to the deforming your Trees, but Robs them of that sap, which may be otherwayes spent in nur­sing the Tree and its fruits, (but the spring is the time of croping or cutting their tops untill the wall be covered, then crop at both sea­sons) thin & purge gently to let in the Sun, but not to scorch the fruit, this is also the time of furnishing your Trees with pedastools or Bearers: therefore in repruning, save as many of the likelyest shoots, as ar well placed, and cut them at the 3d or 4th bud froml the Tree; but cut quit off the lustiest and greatest of this years (whicn Igno­rants do spare) & nail up such as are for filling up the defects of the wall.

You may go through them in harvest and purge the fruit of superfluous leaves which hinders the Sun: but do it so, as there may be leaves sufficient to screen the fruit, and cut quit off the lustie shoots of this second Spring, that Robbs the Tree and fruit.

As for goosberrie and curran standards, train them to a foot stem with a handsome round but thin head: these at Walls half a foot stem with a well spread head supported with Rodes layed cross, fastned with nails and tags. Rasps may be in shadowy bor­dures or beds a foot distance, kept clean of Suckers, weeds , and dead wood.

But because some years in some places we have ripe Grapes, especially that we have under the name of Frontinak: therefore if you think a Tree or two of them worth your while, plant them at a south Wall in a pure and fine mould, not wet, sour, and croud, but a light sweet soil mixt with some Cowes dung Rotted in heaps with the mould. Plant ebb and trench not deep; prune them every year, prune low in February, and at the true mid­summer. Cut off the lustie young shoots and tendralls with sheers betwixt the 2d and 3d Joynt above the fruit; and in August purge it of superfluous leaves, but reserve so many as may screen the fruit a little.

There be some sorts of Fruit-Trees that will blow and bear themselves to death, when young or midle aged: For such out most of the blowing buds, and thin the head to make it shoot again.

I got some cherries and other stone fruit from Holland, who rooke this decay: wherefore in the Spring I did cut off the blowing buds, and the branches near the place where the Tree headed, reserving only some buds for receiving the sap; (in case they should have put furth at the midle of the body or a little above ground) this made them shoot to wood. Therefore I conclude that by this and delving about, you may help ill-thriving Trees.

There be also some Aples and Pears, that will be full of false bearing buds, that doth not blow, such having got more head [Page 97]the Roots can well maintain, consequently has not strength suf­ficient to spare sap for blossoms, farr less for fruit, which by pruning and thinning the head, and by slitting the bark of the body in the Spring, may be made afterwards to bear well, when they have put furth new shoots at the head.

Some Trees there be that will not bear of themselves till they be old: but if you cut off the head of the shoots as soon as ever the Spring shoot is over (which is at the true midsummer) and take out some great boughs then, if you minde your time, and do it with discretion, you may force that Tree to put furth blo­wing buds, and blow and bear the year following, as I shall in­forme you in next sect: but,

6. One main business is to inclose your plantations: avoid plan­ting too deep, too dry, too cold, too moist, and guard your Or­chards from winds by planting two rowes of Forrest-trees, at least round without the Wall, the breadth of a large walk therefrom with Thickets of the same on the West, North and East, but especially on the West. (Yet mind regularity) also observe my methode of planting, and pruning and ordering their bulks of 6 or 8 foot Dia­meter: but when the Tree growes old and their feeding Roots farr abroad, you cannot reach to feed them with dungs in this narrow Compass; therefore enlarg it, or otherwayes confine them a little sooner and hinder their too farr gauding, by digging a Circle round the Tree perhaps 8 foot Diameter, and cut all the Roots clean off there, that hath run out, applying fresh and sweet Mould, so shall they emitt Fibres or feeding Roots in thicket, which may be sup­plyed with refreshments once in two or three years, as shall be re­quired. And this cutting the Roots will cause Trees, that are apt to spend more in wood than Fruit, alter there-from, (add this to the latter-end of the last Section) and the ends of the Roots cut off, and their buttends raised up a little, will serve as flocks to Graff upon.

When you would enrich your worne out plantations, if the gro­und be poor and dry, add well rotten dung prepared and mixt with soil. The Water that soaks from a Dung-hill is excellent: for it will [Page 94]follow the Roots and Enrich the Trees. If the ground be cold and moist, add Pigeons dung or Ashes and soot; which is also excellent if it be leopared with unskilfull dunging, or by noysome weeds that grows about such Roots, (where the owner is a sluggard) & hatches or nests, moles, mice, toads, &c.

If you observe the premises, you may prevent their diseases, such as ill thriving, &c. But if you have, or do neglect, and the diseases be come, as if Cankers or Galls be entered, cut them clean out, cove­ring the wound with a Plaister of Cowes dung and clay compound; if the bark be pilled by hares, conies or mice, apply a Plaister of the same; (but better prevent the last three, by swadling the Trees with Straw or Hay ropes, unloosed in summer and renewed every Winter, if your fence cannot Guard them.) Ill taken off branches, broken or rotten branches must be cut off clean and smooth. If any Trees be bark-bound, (which is the misery of many and especially Forrest­trees) slit them in die Spring through the bark on both sides with a sharp Knife from the head to the Root, and delve about them, otherwayes raise and plant ebber if too deep; which is the common cause of this disease together with bad inclosure.

If Jaundise, cut off the diseased wood; if moss, scrape or singe it off: but its vain to attempt the cure untill you first remove the cause; which you will find to proceed from some malignity at the Roots, whither the disease be Bark-binding, Cankers, &c.

And this most commonly by ill-planting, (and not inclosing) as among Clay, Water, impenitrable Gravel, &c. Water must be draineds, it an intollerable evil. Cold clayes, stiff and hard soil must be trenched and mixed with dungs and soils, often stirred and fallowed, as above is directed. And if you would have Trees to pros­per, observe their nature, and wherein they most delight; and so apply and help them accordingly.

9. And for destroying of vermine, there is traps for Moles of several forms, besides you may watch and delve them up with the spade. And for mice, the traps from Holland, or for want thereof, Pots sunk in the Earth (where they haunt) till their mouth be level [Page 95]with the surface half full of Water covered with a little chaff where­in they drown themselves; and so doth Toads, Asps, &c. Cast away the Earth where the ants lodge, supplying its place with stiff clay. Place Cow-hooves for the woodlice, and erwigs to lodg in all night, and so scald them early morning. Pour scalding Water in the nests of Wasps, and hang Glasses of All mingled with Hony, where you would not have them frequent.

Dash Water on the Trees for Caterpillers, by the Stroups we get from Holland. Gather Snails and Wormes, shoot Crows, Pyes, Jayes, and spread Nets before your Wall-Fruit for their preser­vation.

See the Appendix how to gather and preserve Fruit, and how to make Cyder, &c.

CHAP. VI. Of Fruits, Herbes, and Roots for the Kitchen.

1. ALL the Fruits whereof I spoke in the last Chapter, are for the Kitchen or Table, but they grow on Trees or Shrubs; yet there is some falls in here, the tenderest whereof are

Melons, and are not worth the while : for you must raise them on the early Hot-bed (the making whereof is in Chap. 2. Sect. 7.) which (when fit for seed) prick 4 or 5 in together, at 3 Inches di­stance, through the bed, setting drinking Glasses on them at first, and cover on the matts over the whole carefully, to preserve from Snow, Rains, and Winds; taking off the marts in temperate dayes, but keep on the Glasses, except in a warme space; that you ac­quaint them a little with the Air, by raising the edg of the Glasses, with a little Straw on the laun side, closing it at night again. When they stand in need, Water with Water made warme by standing an [Page 100]day or two in the Sun, impregnate with pigeons dung, but let it be fresh and clean, conveying it to the Roots, not touching their leaves with it: if they be sowen on the last discribed hotbed viz. in cases, sow at a wider distance, and you need not transplant, but renew the heat when needful, and as they grow larger, cover with the Bell-Glasses, giving them Air by hoising the Glasses, till they can endure the Sun without them, but dill cover all close at night again: when they have put out runners 4 or 5 Inches long, cut off one or two joynts at the end, and when they have gathered more strength, cut off all but the prime shoots. And when the Fruit knots, nip off that runner above the Fruit between the 2d and 3d joynt, cutting still off the new ones that spring, but do not expose the Fruit to the Sun: lay tile under the Fruit: wipe the Dew off the Glasses and plants eve­ry morning, but keep the Glasses on the Fruit, and Water non now.

Cucumbers may be ordered that same Very way, and so may Pompions, but they are not so tender, I have raised them without Glasses.

Strawberries are a very fine and delicat Fruit, and are easily in­creased, but best by the small Plants at the strings when taken Root at the joynts: plant them at any or both springs, but I find most of fibrous Rooted plants apt to be spued out of ground by Winter, if not Rooted sufficiently before. Dung, delve, mix and prepare a light and warme soil, prun their Root and top, and plant in streight lines 5 rowes in the bed, and suffer them never to over-run, but keep each stock by themselves, still taking off all their strings, (except at sometime you permit a few for increass) weed and haw among them; and in September cut them within 2 Inches of the ground, and lay Cow dung over the bed (reserving their tops free) covered with a strinkling of Sand; this will much improve them. So as they will not need renewing for 6 or 7 years.

Artichoks is a fine and tailing Fruit, and is increased by offsets chiefly, planted in the spring, a fat and well cultured soil, light and warme, enriched with Sheeps dung, plant in straight lines, about 3 foot distance having prun'd their Roots, and cut their tops within [Page 101]half a foot; Water (if needfull) with qualified Water, and still cut away their under and hanging leaves, and haw the weeds as they begin to peep: when their Fruit is spent, cut them within half a foot of the ground, and delve and cover the plot over with dung and leitter, keeping their tops free, and in Aprile delve down the same, and extirpate them of Suckers, sliping them off carefully lea­ving 2 or 3 at most to each stock forbearing; And they will flou­rish near 9 or 10 years.

Great beans must be planted early in the Spring, as soon as the great frosts or over, in deep rich ground, 2 foot Intervall and half a foot in their rows; these for seed when full ripe, cut and bind in little sheaves and lay on Trees to dry

Kidnes in Aprile, a light and warme soil, support them with sticks.

Peas that you would have early, sow in the full moon of Novem: if a warme place: but do not trust too much unto them. Sow in Feb. and hence monthly til Iune, that you may have them till the frosts surprize: in an open light, warme, dry soil; and if they ly on the bair ground, they will sooner ripe by reflection▪ but if you would have them fruitful, set sticks amongst them while young, for their tenderals to climb on; and keep them allwayes clean of weeds: when ripe, you may easily win some for seed, and sow not every year on the same plot; to change the ground, Im­proves them. I preferre the setting them by lines, 5 rowes in the bed, as part 1. Chap: 5. Sect: 2. make the holes nimbly by the lines with a dible 1 ½ Inch deep, and 2 Inches, distance from ano­ther, or the same hand, fallowing, and put one in each hole; then give the bed a smooth with the rake head, which fills the holes and covers the peas: one pound makes move service thus, than 3 other­wayes; its soon performed, and they spring orderly.

2. Of Sallads and pot-herbes, the choicest sallad is Asparagus: sow its seed in March, good ground, and that time rewely moneths transplant into an exceeding rich and well mixed ground of Rotted dung and light Earth. you may streatch lines alongst [Page 102]and cross the beds and mark with the edg of the rule; then ga­ther little huts of Earth at the crossings, whereon you must spread the Roots of your Asparagus, two or three on a hut, but do not top their Roots, (you may perceive their poynts are like the runners of liquorish) then cover the sets with the Rotted dung and Earth, 2 Inches over, which has been lying a year incom­pose. They cannot abide wet grounds, and weeds will quyt de­stroy them: at the Approach of winter, cut their stalks, and cover their beds with leitter and dung from the stables. The winter Raines will wash in its substance to their Roots; at Spring e're they peep, remove it, and loosen the Earth amongst them with a fork, and cover them near half Inch with the mould Ra­ked and evened; but do not tread on them. Follow this direction yearly, and in 4 or 5 years it will be excellent for cutting out the big­gest and tenderest, and a little within the ground, but hurt not them ready to peep; the seed is ripe when red.

You may have early Asparagus, if you plant some strong Roots on your early hotbed; which about a moneth hence will Spring, and then dy.

Purslain may be sowen on the early hotbed, it cannot endure deep Interring: sow on a fine mould like dust, and only clap it a little with the shovell; hence on the cold bed, but fat and fine soil through the summer, in drills for convenience of weeding and cut­ting: and if you please transplant it when 2 Inches long, reser­ve the early sowen for seed, till their pods grow blackish; then pull and hang to dry, and Rub out.

As purslain, so lettice by seeds only, at the same seasons; (but the winter with corn sallad in August) they love a fat soil something moist , that for winter, more dry. Suffer these for seed to run up, and only cleanse of under and withered leaves: It's ripe when it begins to fly with the wind; pull it, and lay on a clothe, to perfect, and Rub out in a dry day.

Sow cresses at the same times. And plant

Tarragon by off-sets in the Spring.

The small cherault by seed, as cresses. As also

Burnet: but it continues many years, still yielding seed.

Sampler growes at seaside in Gallaway, not so well in out gardens.

Succory and Endive by seeds and offers at both springs; they continue many years.

Sorrall by offsets (some by seeds also) in beginning of Aprile, a good fat soil, a little shade, 6 or 7 rowes in the bed, weeded all summer, and cut near the ground in Septemb: In 2 or 3 years replant into another place: for they soon Impair the ground of that part appropriate for them.

Spinage by seed only in Feb: and March, but that sowen be­ginning August is most profitable; cut it beginning Oct: and it will Spring a fresh. And be ready for Spring stoves; then reserve some uncut for seed; it prospers well in a very fat Earth, Not too dry.

And so doth beets, who are also propagate the same way, on­ly them sowen at Spring are most serviceable.

Sow beet card in the fattest, and when something strong, you may transplant: they seed the next, not that year wherein you sow them.

Order burrage as spinage, its also Annuall; So bugloss: but it continues many years.

Marigold may be ordered as burrage, and white Arage as Spinage.

Parsly by seeds in Feb: and March, they bring furth their seeds next year, whereby they must be yearly renewed.

Sellery in a light fat soil, 8 rowes in the bed, as parsly; it continues long, yearly yielding seed after the first; & so doth smalladg & Alexan­der. They may be blanched as succory and Endive, viz. sellery wow­en at spring Transplante at midsummer in a very fat and fine earth, half foot deep furrowes, 3 foot between the rowes, and but 3 In­ches in the rowes, and as it growes up, gather the earth at its sides from the Intervalls, leaving the top free; and still as it growes, earth it up: so shall it be blanched for a winter sallad.

Garleeks and shallot by offsets in March, a light and fat soil, 8 rowes in the bed: I use neither cutting nor twisting their stakes, but when their fibres begin to Rott latter end August, take them up. and spread to dry a little, and house them in a dry room with board floor for use.

Leeks by seed in April, a fat soil, though something stiff, In June you may thin them by Transplantation: prun their Roots and tops, set them at three Inches distance, and continue to crop them till Octob: the french seed is best, ours not worth the while. Onyons by seeds in March, a Rich, Warme, light mould, well mixt with Rotted compost, and sifted pigeons dung; give them a thin coat or covering of earth. Sow also beginning July for Shibols; its not worth the pains to win their feed.

Plant offsets of sives in spring, 9 rowes in the bed, in a rich and low ground.

Cole Flower is a fine cole; sow on the early hot bed, (for its hard to get winter plants through to purpose) sow thin and ebb, and care­fully preserve them from colds while young. If you water, Imbibe pigeons dung, but touch not their leaves therewith; when their leaves ar 3 Inches broad, Transplant them into a very fat and well mixt soil, 2 foot distance, prun their Roots and tops: and if any worm knots, cut them a way, and in setting keep their hearts Im­medially above ground. And all along keep them clean of weeds, under hanging and withered leaves: let them not suffer drought while young, make the water like wort by dung, if the ground and seed be good, you may expect good heads; which if you spend not alltogether before frosts, (which spoils them) take them up in a dry day and ty them in pairs to hang in a dry Room for use. the best seed comes from Candia.

There be many Cabbages; sow the Savoy and such tender sorts, as cole-flowers, albeit not so tender; sow the great white and Red, the full moon in July, Plant them furth in Octob: 3 foot distance in well dunged ground: set some also in March; but then the gard­ner finds multiplicity of business, therefore its his wisdom to put as [Page 105]much work by hand as can suffer it, at least to have all his grounds fallowed before winter, you may rake up and hang your Cabbages in Novem: as cole-flowers: but plant some of the best and hardest for seed, up to the neck; when they shoot, support with stakes and Ropes; when full, cut and lay on a clothe to perfect. But choice the midle, rejecting the lower branches.

Catch snails and worms that graws the young sprouting plants; and set nets for birds at the same time, the reason why old Cole is full of green worms is, dry poor ground never weeded, or other­wayes unqualified dungs and unseasonably applyed. If they would trench, mix, &c. As in Chap: 2. that their ground may be clean and sweet, they shall ripen accordingly.

Common Colworts ar usually sowen at spring, planted in sum­mer and eaten through winter, and at spring when other green herbes ar scarce you may also sow and set them with Cabbages and ripe their seeds accordingly.

3. Of sweet herbes: as,

Clary by seeds and offsets in Aprile; at which time you may slip and set Tansie, Sage, Cost, Mint, Balme, Winter Sa­vory, Thyme, Penniroyall, Wild Marjorum, Maudlin, Fen­nell, &c. Prune their tops and fibres, and plant in a garden soil, 8 rowes in the bed; they all continue long: but cutting their tops in growing time makes them more durable: and cut them all within a handful of the ground at August, that they may recover against winter. You may likewayes sow the seed of Fennell, Thyme, Winter as well as Summer Savory, Dill, Sweet Basill, &c. In Aprile, a warme cultured soil, ordering them as above: the three last ar annualls. If you would have sweet Marjorum early, raise it on the hot bed, the sweet Basill requires the same: sow it also the latter end of Aprile in a warme fat soil, 8 rowes in the bed. you may sow it in July, and Transplant when two Inches high, in a warme bordure at a south wall; its seed with Basill comes from hotter Countries. Sow Rosmary seed in Aprile, or at the same time take its slips or cuttings and twist them a little at the ends, and dible in [Page 106]good soil, on a south wall-bordure: but cut not their tops, they easily root being watered in drought with soap water; you may ply it to the wall as Shrubs.

4. I am now come to Roots, they require a light Earth, deep trenched, fat sand mixt with Sheeps dang; its convenient that it be dunged a year before, because new dung maks them forke.

Plant Liquorish offsets and Runners in February, in this soil well stirred and mixt, after which do not tread save in the fur­rows, six rowes in the bed, and cover all the Intervalls with leitter topt with sand, but let the plants be free: for this is to keep out drought the first summer; keep them allwayes clean of weeds and cut their stalks near winter, let it stand 3 summers in the ground, and in Novem: take it up thus: begin at one side of the plot, and make a trench, the whole deepth of their Roots, taking it out carefully (not breaking it) at the face of the same, casting the Earth still behind as you proceed; then cut off the plants, to divide carefully and lay them amongst moist sand in a cellar till setting time. And because it stands three seasons you may have three several plantations; so shall you have it to take up yearly, if you plant accordingly.

Scorzonera by seeds and by offsets: (that is by parting the tops of the Root) sow in the Spring, or when its seed ripes promi­scuouly in the beds; it continues many years in the ground, and growes still the greater, and is in season at all times for ea­ting, tho it yearly run to seed.

Order Carvy aa scorzonera; its Roots is eaten as parsneeps.

Skirrets by seeds, but chiefly by offsets, plant the small sets not many in a bundle, in March, 8 rowes in the bed: when their stalks begin to wither, fall a spending them, and as you, break off their Roots for use, lay rheir tops or sets in ground covered a little till the Spring for planting; (I cautioned you be­fore to change the crops) these you spend not e're the frosts co­me, hard house among very dry sand, that you may have them [Page 107]when you will, rather as be barred from them by the frosts.

Parsneeps by seed only: sow in March promiscuously over the bed, but thin; spend and house them with skirrets, and cut quit off their tops, lest they grow amongst the sand: reserve some of the best untaken up for seed, which will ripe the next season, choice the midle stem seed.

Beat-Rave may be ordered in all cases as parsneeps, save that you may begin sooner to eat them (viz: as soon as they are bigg enough) tho they last as long, besides these you pickle.

Carrots as beat Raves.

Turneeps by seeds in Aprile, May, June, July, (the first proves not best) promiscuously over the bed, very thin and scar­cely any covering of Earth. When they rise, thin them; late turneeps may be housed as parsneeps and seeds reapt accor­dingly.

Horse Radish by offsets, and lasts long too.

The Garden Radish by seed only: you may raise for early in the hotbed cases; hence every 20 dayes with other sallading through summer, because they quickly shoot for seed: sow black Radish in August and Septemb: for winter, these seeds next season.

Potatoes being cut in as many pieces as you please providing there be an eye at each piece and planted in March, 5 rowes in the bed, plant not deep, neither in wer or stiff ground; spend them with parsneeps, and in housing spread only through a board-floor.

Parsly is also a Root for the Kitchen, and so is fennell; I spo­ke of them before, only you may house some for winter.

See part 1. Chap: 5. for the orderly planting of Kitchen herbes.

5. Weeding (I think) may be accompted the most material part of Gard'nery: The learned Evelin takes notice of it; his directions are, weed and haw betimes, continue weeding befo­re they run to seed, which is of extraordinary Importance both [Page 108]for saving of charge, Improvement of fruit, and the neat main­taining of the gardens: wherefore sayes he, keep your weeds doun, that they grow not to seed, and begin your work of ha­wing as soon as they begin allmost to peep; by this means you will dispatch more in a few houres than afterwards in a whole day; whereas if you neglect it till they are ready to seed, you do but stir and repair the Earth for a more numerous crop, and your ground shall never be cleared.

And this agrees with what I had written my self, viz: destroy weeds while young: for when they have growen strong and got deep Rooting, they'le not only take the nurishment from the good plant, but there will be such difficulty in grubing them out, that the good seed or plant is in danger of being destroyed; but if you suffer them to bear and sow their seeds, then (besides that they exhaust much more of the substance of the ground) you shall find the work Intollerable, for they'le poison the who­le ground, insomuch that one years seeds will cost many years weeding: and therefore prevent these things by keeping doun the weeds; so shall your work become easie and gardens handsome.

In beds where hawes cannot go, you must weed with your hands on both sides, sitting in the furrow on a straw cushion, pull up the Root cleanly, taking the help of the weeding Iron where needful: but make use of the haw in all the Intervalls, drill-beds, nurseries, furrowes, tables, or pathes, whereby one will clean­se more than some six by weeding with their hands; and if dry weather, they'le wither where they ly cut, otherwayes Rake them in heaps and spread again when Rotted, or carry them to some open trench or pit, and still be visiting your plantations, that as soon as you perceive a weed peep, you may chalk it.

CHAP. VII. Of some Physick herbes, shrubs, and Flowers.

1. ALL the herbes in the last chapter are physical, and ha­ving spoken to them already, I have the less to do he­re; however there is more, as

Garden-Rue: I use to environe sage beds with Rue; (the soil not moist, mixt with ashes not cinders) you may box bordures with it as well as lavender, or hysop; which last is also Increased by seed, and so is golden Rod, feverfew, verven, celandin; they last ma­ny years, and so doth

Wormwoods, comfry, Solomons seal, Catmint, Callamint, Elacampan, Masterwort, wall pellitory, garden Germander, Beatony, Camomile, Swallowort, Suthernwood, Lovag, Dwarf-elder, harts-tongue, Maiden-hair, Asrum, Dropwort, Birth­wort, Horhund, Spignell, Agrimony, Briony, Bearsbreach, Sea-holly, Madder, Rhuebarb, Dogmercury; all which are easily Increased by offsets in the Spring, and requires to be cut a little above ground at the beginning of Autumne.

Angelica, Spurg, scurvy grass, &c. Are Annualls, but yield seed the second year from sowing: you may sow when ripe, or in the Spring; but if you prevent their seeding by cutting, they will last longer.

Blessed thissell, Thorn Aple, Tobaco, stinking Arag, oak of Jerusalem, &c. Yielding seed and dying the first year; there­fore sow yearly in Aprile. The Virginia Tobaco requites the hotbed, the rest a good fat, light soil, as doth Angelica: you must not burie stinking Arag deep, sow it as purslain.

There be many more, besides multitudes in the fields, Woods, Glens, Meadowes, &c. Of good use, many whereof you may bring into the garden as I have done: I forbear, seeing the order is in part 1. [Page 110]Chap. 5. and the wayes of propagation in the first of this, and how to order the ground in the second. I do not approve of planting the clod with them brought out of the fields, for it rotts and turns sour, and so kills the plant, (albeit you may keep the clod about it till you come home but,) then part it off carefully, prun their fi­bres a little, make the holes with the Trowall, and plant in a Con­natural Earth, to that of their wonted abode, well stirred and aired, which is ane excellent mean that makes all plants prosper, and therefore diligently to be observed.

2. Of Shrubs that lose their leaves in Winter, the choicest whereof are,

Roses of many sorts, they are increased by Suckers and layers. the musk may be buded on the Eglantin and set at a Wall; the dou­ble Yellow bears fairest Flowers, if you bud the single Yellow on a Frankfort, and rebud the double Yellow thereon, (I have done it immediatly on the single) planted as a Standard, a little shaded in Summer, and kept clean of Suckers and superfluous buds; and any that blow hot freely may be slit at the 5 divisions of the hose.

Prune your Roses after the Flower is past, viz. before the full Moon in October, cut behind a leaf-bud and cleanse them of dead wood, and if you desire fair Flowers, sufter but one Stem on a Root and keep it low, and every 5th year, cut them down to the ground, renewing their earth with old Cow dung.

Jasmines. Honisuckles, Pipe-trees, &c. by suckers, layers and cuttings. See Chap. 1.

Mezerion by seed, as Hawthorn; they ly as long.

Of Shrubs that be ever green there is Box, Savin, Arbor vitae, Tamerisk, Privite, &c. by suckers, layers, and cuttings in Aprile; a shade and moist fat soil till Rooted.

The Cherrie-bay is an excellent Green, and not very Apt to blast, there is also Laurustinus, Philyrea, Alaternus, (I love not Pyracantha,) Juniper, (I care not for ever green Oak and Cypress) all by seeds, which must be couched in Sand before Winter, and sowen in Aprile, to rise that season except the Juniper, which lyes till [Page 111]the next: transplant the second year after they rise in Aprile, remove by a Trowal, with Earth at their Roots, toping such Roots as ap­pears without the clod, and lessen the head by thinning it. See where I have spoken of Holly, for the same Rules may be observed for these to be spread on Walls, but save the top of Standards: they do all well by suckers and layers also, except Cypress and Juniper. Be carefull to defend your seedling Greens while young, from spring blastings; yet do not choak them for want of good Air.

The Pin, Cypress, and ever-green Oak, (the last in special) will scarce endure a removal from seminary, therefore sow them in drills 2 foot intervall one way, and half a foot the other; and the next year after they rise, make a spade-bit trench between the rowes, and work in cautiously, till you discover the running down Root at one side, which you must top with the pruning Knite, and level in the Earth as it was, cut off some side-boughes and thin the head: let them remain two years; then remove and plant them, as is in­structed.

Greens that are best worthy our esteem, are Scots firr Stan­dard, Holly for Hedges, the Cherrie-bay for Walls, or barren creeping jvy, which will neither blast nor seek supporting.

There is Strawberrie-tree, and Tree night-shade, who are ten­der. But

Indian and Spanish Jasmines, Mirtles, Oleanders, and Oreng-tree yet tenderer, wherefore I am not very curious of them, yet there is severals in this Countrey has them, and are at great pains in governing them, by setting them in cases, small stones at the bot­tome, filled with Earth mentioned for fine plants Chap 2. Sect. 6. at the season Chap. 1. Sect. 4. Housing in Winter between latter-end September till beginning May, giving them fresh Earth as they re­tire, and expose them i. e. takes out the upper exhausted, stirring that below with a Fork (not wounding the Roots) and puts in its place, some rich and well consum'd soil, watering on all occasions with Water, wherein Neats dung is steeped (not touching leaves or stem therewith,) whereof they are sparing while remaining in the House, [Page 112]except after long frosts, in whose extremity is used a little Charcoal free of smoak sunk a little in the Floor, and in warme dayes free of frosts and fogs, aquainted with the Air, but shut close at night again: and when they may expose to the free Air, yet even then sets them a week in the shade, having first brussed them from dust, &c. For my part I rather be in the Woods, Parks, Orchards, Kitchen Garden or fields measuring, planting, and improving the ground to best advantage. However I will here take a little turne among the Flowers.

3. Of Fibrous Rooted Flowers.

July-flowers are the best, and are increased by offsets, layers, slips, and seeds. A light loamy Earth well mixt with rotted soil of Cowes and Sheep, a year before hand.

Albeit I have raised many double by seed of my own reaping; yet the surest way to preserve the best, is by laying, because seedlings are apt to dy after they have born a Flower: how to lay see Chap. 1. Sect. 6. Plant out your layers at spring, and give these in Potts fresh Earth as the Orenge-tree, and yearly cleanse the old Roots of wi­thered, dead, and Rotten leaves, and leave not above 3 or 4 Spindles for Flower, (if choice) and nip off superfluous buds lest they blow and bear themselves to death: and if any brust slit, as I directed with double Yelow Rose. At midsummer shade from afternoons Sun a little these that blow, support them against winds, set hoofs amongst them for catching erwigs their enemies; Water well in drought, sparing their leaves, preserve the Choice from too much Raines by laying the Pots on their sides, strick off the Snow when it lyes too weightie on them, these you will not to beat seed, cut their stalks as soon as past the Flower.

Stock July-flowers by seeds or cuttings; the seed of single will produce double, but the more leaves the Mother hath, the doubler shall the product be; sow and plant with carnations or July-flowers, they affect a soil with them.

Prim-roses, Couslips, and bears-ears by offsets in the spring, o when the Flower is past, (viz. July) they affect a good natural [Page 113]Earth well mixt with rotten Neats dung: the finer sorts loves a little shade in summer, if in Pots or cases you may transport them to such at pleasure.

Great varieties may be raised from seed sowen in Pots, the soil aforesaid mixt with willow Earth in October, take head of deep in­terring bairs ears, sow them as purslain: set the Potts and cases with them at the Southside of a Wall till Aprile, at which time they spring, and must be now retired a little as is said; transplant in Ju­ly to Flower next spring, and neglect not to Earth up such as are apt to work out of ground namely bears ears.

There is many other as

Noble Liverwort, Spring Gentianella, Virgines-bours, &c. and ar Increassed by offsets in the spring or by seeds at the same time. As also Columbins, Holihocks, Cransbill, Campions, and Constantinople Flowers, Catch Flyes, Pinks and sweet Williams, Throat Worts, and Bell Flowers, &c. Or Dasies, Violets, Spidder Wort, double Mash, Mary-gold, by offsets any time when springing.

Of Bulbo and Tuberous Roots there is

Tulipas of great varieties, Increases them by offsets when their stalkes withers, which is generally about June, July, August; this is also the season for other bulbo and tuberos Roots; keep them in a cool but dry place till Sept: or Octob: and then plant them in a light sandy earth with fat soil an Inch below the bulb, so that the roots may reach it, remove every three years and oftener if they af­fect not the soil: they may be raised from seed but its tedious.

Anemonies the same very way as Tulips, except that they require a rich earth mixt with Rotten dung so that it be not Rank.

Apply this also to Rannuculases of the finest sorts.

Cyclamin Roots may be carefully parted in July and set in the soil for Tulips.

Crocuses and Cholcicums as Tulips, but requires a mixt rich light soil. And so with

Irise Bulboses (but loves a dry bed) and Narcissuses, Ornithogu­lams, [Page 114]Jacenths, Hesons, Aconits, Hellibors, &c.

Likewayes Iris Tuberosus, Crown Imperial, and Lilias of seve­rall sorts, Pionies, Cynosorches. &c.

Indian Tuberose is tender. See Esq Evelin's Kallendar.

There ar many Annualls may be sowen in pots, and plunged in hot bed, and some under glass covers especially them sowen in Au­tumne, as

Amaranthus, Marvel of Peru, flos Africanus, Convolvulus, &c. In Aprile you may sow them on the cold bed, if good fat warme earth, together with double Marygold, Cyanus, Nigella, Delph­inus, Anterhinum, double garden and Corne Popies, Fox Gloves, Flos Solis, Flos Adonis, &c.

But if you would be further satisfied in the varieties of plants, consult the Learned and most Ingenious Mr. James Sutherlands Catalogue Phisick Gardner at Edinburgh.

4 I spoke before of preserving plants by housing. There is some that cannot endure the house, who must be set at the South wall, the potts sunck three Inches below the surface, covered with glass, first clothing them with sweet and dry Moss: or in prepared boxed beds with folding Glass frames to lift up and down at pleasure; be­cause in all seasonable warme blinks of the Sun & shoures they may be discovered of all that covers them, thus: Treat choice Ranun­culas, Anemonies, Amaranthus, &c. Neglect not to repair their earth as (in sect: 2) the Oreng Tree.

Plants standing dry in Winter, earthed up, or the Earth made firme about them are good means of preservation. Neglect not to cleanse all your plants of under and withered leaves, superfluous offsets, &c. See Chap. 1. Sect. 10. and see Part 1. Chap. 6. Sect. 7. For the orderly planting of Flowers. And I hope the Reader will excuse for this brevity, seeing each Chapter herein would merit a Book, neither will leasure permit me at present.