OBSERVATIONS Topographical, Moral and Physiological, Made in a JOURNEY Through Part of the Low-Countries, &c.

April 18, 1663. We passed over in the Packet-Boat from Dover to Ca­lais, Calais. a Town formerly held by the English about 210 years, viz. from the 21. of King Edward the Third, when it was taken, till the last year of Queen Mary, when it was lost. Since that time, Anno 1596. it was taken by the Spaniards under Arch-Duke Albert in three days time, only the Castle held out seven or eight. And last of all, Anno 1598. it was restored to the French upon the Trea­ty at Vervin, who now hold it. It is advantage­ously situate for Defence, and now very strongly fortified after the modern fashion with an impene­trable Wall and Bastions of Earth, a deep Trench full of Water to the landward, and a large Citadel. The new Wall and Citadel were built about 44 years since. The old Stone-Wall and Ditch are still remaining, but enclosed within the new. The Town for bigness exceeds Dover, and seem'd to us frequent and full of People. It hath a large square Piazza [...] Market-Place, wherein are two great Markets [Page]

[Page 3] the convenience of its Harbour, which is of good Capacity, safe from Winds, well defended, and deep enough to receive Ships of great Burthen. The Buildings of the Town are not tall, but hand­som and uniform; the Streets regular, well paved, exactly level and streight. And it is no wonder they should be so, the present Town having been contrived and set out all at once. For when it was surrendred up to Arch-Duke Albert after that famous Siege of three years, the Spaniards found nothing there but great Heaps of Earth and Rubbish, scarce, one House of the old Building remaining. This Town is most regularly and exactly fortified, so that it seemed to us one of the strongest Pieces in all the Low-Countries.

The fourth by some esteemed the fifth Port Town of Flanders which hath the largest and most capa­cious Harbour of all the rest,Sluys. viz. Sluys, subject to the States of the United Provinces, we saw not.

April 24. We took places in the Passage-Boat for Bruges, and at a League and halfs end came to a Lock or Sluce, where we shifted our Boat. These Locks or Sostegni (as the Italians significantly call them) are usually placed at a great Declivity of any Cha [...]el or Fall of water, and serve to sustain or keep up the Water, (as the Italian Name imports) to make a River navigable which either wants Water or hath too s [...]eep a Descent. There are of them in England (as we have been informed) upon Guildford River in Surrey, and have been formerly upon the Trent. They are usually thus contrived, First, there are placed a pair of Folding-doors or Flood-gates cross the Chanel to stop the water descending: Then, a competent space being left to receive Boats and Lighters, &c. another single Gate: In each of these Gates, toward the bottom, is made a Hole or Win­dow sitted with a convenient Shut or Wicket (Por­tello [Page 4] the Italians call it) to open and shut as occasion requires. When a Vessel comes down stream to the Sostegno, first they open the Portello of the foremost Gates and let the Water into the inclosed space, which will necessarily rise there till it come to be equal with the Level of that above the Gates; then they shut the Portello, and the Stream making no re­sistance, easily draw back the Gates, and receive in the Boat. Which done, they open the Portello of the lower Gates, whereupon the Stream above presently drives to and keeps fast the foremost Gates, and the Water in the enclosed space sinks till it be even with that in the Chanel below; and then they open the Gate itself and let the Boat out. When a Boat goes up Stream, they first open the lowermost Gate, and receive it into the middle or enclosed space, then withdraw or set open the Portello in the upper­most Gates, letting in the water till it come to be equal with the level of that above the Gates, and lastly draw back the Gates themselves and let out the Boat. N. B. That both upper and lower Gates open against the Stream, and are driven to and kept shut by it, and that the Leaves of the upper Gates lie not in the same plain when shut, but make an obtuse Angle, the better to resist the force of the Water.

Bruges, Bruges. so called from the multitude of Bridges therein, is four Leagues distant from Ostend, a large City and well built, many of the Houses being four or five, and some six Stories high. It is of a round figure, well walled and entrench'd hath been for­merly one of the chief Mart-Towns in Europe, and though it be at present less than what it was for Trade, Riches and number of People, yet is it no mean, poor or inconsiderable place, but in so good condition, that it may well challenge place among the Cities of the second rate in Europe. It is now an Epi­scopal See, and hath been noted for handsom Wo­men. [Page]

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[Page 5] Here we first observed the Custom mention­ed by Erasmus in his Colloquies, of fasning a small piece of white Linen to the Ring of Rapper of the Door of that House where a Woman lies in. A. Forte p [...]ieteriens has aedes vidi cornicem obductam candido [...] demirabar quid esset causa. Fa. Adeóne hosper es in hac Repub. ut ignores hoc esse symbolum puerperi [...] i [...] aedibus? Erasm. Colloqu. Puerpera. We saw the manner of raising up Water for the use of the Ci­tizens by a Chain whereon are fastned Cylindrical Iron Buckets. This Chain is round in form of a Bracelet, Neck-lace or Wheel-band, and put over a large Axis deeply furrowed, from which it hangs down into a Well of Water, and being turned about by the Axis, the descending Buckets have their mouths downward, and take up Water as they pass through the Well; which (ascending with their mouths upward, but a little inclining from the Chain outward) they bring up to the Axis, to which so soon as they are come, by reason of their Posi­tion they must needs turn it out into a Trough pla­ced under the Axis, by which it is conveyed to a Cistern, and thence by Pipes to private Houses. This kind of Machin is generally used in Italy, Spain and France for raising up Water, to water their Gardens in Summer time. The deep Furrows in the Axis are to catch hold of the Buckets, that the Chain slip not back by reason of the weight of the ascending Buckets. In this City are no more than seven Parish Churches, but of Monasteries or Reli­gious Houses (as they call them) good store, 60 ac­cording to Golnitz. In the Church of Nostre-dame or S. Mary lies the Body of Charles the Hardy, Duke of Burgundy, and Lord of most of the Netherlands, under a stately Monument with a French Inscription upon it, which tells us, that he was slain in the Battel of Nancy, 1476. and his Body brought from Nancy hither by his great Grand-child Charles the Fifth, [Page 6] Emperour, and that K. Philip the Second erected to him that Monument. We saw in this Town one John Tates, a Man of a Gigantick Stature, born at Schoonhoven in Holland: one of a middle Stature might well stand under his arm-pit, from his middle fingers end to his elbow was 25 inches and a half, the length of his hand to his wrist 11 inches, his middle finger 7 inches. He was well shaped, and all his Limbs proportionable to his height. He was afterwards (as we heard) brought over into England to be shown.

Near this City (as Boetius de Boot, who was Na­tive thereof relates) digging ten or twenty Ells deep in the Earth, they find whole Woods of Trees, in which the Trunks, Boughs and Leaves do so exact­ly appear, that one may easily distinguish the seve­ral kinds of them, and very plainly discern the Se­ries of Leaves which have fallen yearly. These sub­terraneous Woods are found in those places which 500 years ago were Sea, and afterwards either left and thrown up by the Sea, or gained from it, the Tides being kept off by Walls and Fences. But be­fore the fore-mentioned term of 500 years, there is no memory that these places were part of the Continent. And yet seeing the tops of these Trees do for the most part lie Eastward, because (as is pro­bable) they were thrown down by Western Winds, which on this Coast are most boisterous and violent, it will necessarily follow that in the most antient times and before all memory of man, these places were Firm Land, and without the limits of the Sea.

The Describer of Amsterdam tells us, that in Friesfland and Groningland, there are great numbers of these under-ground Trees found and digged up in Mosses and fenny Grounds where they dig for Turves. In E [...]gland also there are found of them plentifully in many places, the Wood whereof [Page 7] they usually call Moss-Wood, because it is for the most part digged up in the Mosses or moorish boggy Fens and Levels where they get Turves; though sometimes it be found in firmer Grounds, and some­times in the sides of Mountains. The Question is, How these Trees came to be buried so deep under ground? To which we may probably answer, that many Ages ago before all Records of Antiquity, yea before primitive Fame or Tradition itself, these places were part of the firm Land, and covered with Wood; afterwards being undermined and overwhelmed by the violence of the Sea, they con­tinued so long under water, till the Rivers brought down Earth and Mud enough to cover the Trees, fill up these Shallows, and restore them to the firm Land again. In like manner upon the Coast of Suffolk about Dunwich, the Sea doth now and hath for many years past very much encroached upon the Land, undermining and overwhelming by degrees a great deal of high ground; insomuch that anti­ent Writings make mention of a Wood a mile and half to the East of Dunwich, which is at present so far within the Sea. Now if in succeeding Ages (as likely enough it is) the Sea shall by degrees be filled up, either by its own working, or by Earth brought down by Land-Floods still subsiding to the bottom, and growing up over the tops of these Trees, and so this space again added to the firm Land; the men that shall then live in those parts (if the World so long last) will, it's likely, dig up these Trees, and as much won­der how they came there, as we do at the present Moss-Wood.

And now that I am speaking of filling up and atterrating (to borrow that word of the Italians) the Skirts and Borders of the Sea, I shall take leave to add by the by, that to me it seems very probable, that all the Low-Countries have been in this manner gained from the Sea. For Varenius in his Geography [Page 8] tells us, That sinking Well in Amsterdam, at near an hundred foot depth they met with a Bed or Floor of Sand and Cockle-shells, whence it is evident that of old time the bottom of the Sea lay so deep, and that that hundred foot thickness of Faith above the Sand arose from the Sediments of the Waters of those great Rivers, which there emptied themselves into the Sea, and in times of Floods brought down with them abundance of Earth from the upper Grounds: Which yet is a strange thing, consider­ing the novity of the World, the Age whereof ac­cording to the usual Account is not yet 5600 years. That the Rain doth continually wash down Earth from the Mountains, and atterrate or add part of the Sea to the firm Land, is manifest from the La­gune or Flats about Venice; the C [...]amdrg or Isle of the River Rhosue about Aix in Provence, in which we were told that the Watch-Tower had in the memory of some men been removed forward three times, so much had been there gained from the Sea; and many places in our own Land: only it is a received Traditi­on, and may perhaps be true, that what the Sea loses in one place, it gets in another. That the height of the Mountains, at least those which consist not of firm rocks, doth continually diminish, is I think very likely, not to say certain. I have been credibly informed, that whereas the Steeple of Craich in the Peak of Derby­shire in the memory of some old men yet living could not have been seen from a certain Hill lying between Hopton and Wirksworth, now not only the Steeple, but a great part of the Body of the Church may from thence be seen: Which without doubt comes to pass by the sinking of a Hill between the Church and place of View. Hence it would fol­low, that in process, of time (but it would be many thousands of years first) all the Hills and Mountains (except the rocky) would by Floods and Shots of Rain be quite washed away and the whole Earth le­velled.

[Page 9] But to return to the Trees: One material Excep­tion against our Solution still remains, and that is, that a great many of these subterraneous Trees dig'd up in England are thought to be Firs, whereas that kind of Tree doth not at present, and consequently we have reason to believe never did, grow wild in this Kingdom. To which I answer, that this Exception would indeed much puzzle me, were it certain and manifest, that this is Fir-Wood, which is so generally reputed from its Grain, In­flammability and other Qualities. But since it doth not clearly appear to me so to be, I shall re­spite my Answer, till I be fully satisfied concerning it.

From Bruges, April 27. We went be Boat to Gau [...]t, Gaunt. the greatest City of Flanders; whence the Emperour Charles V. who was born here, was wont to boast, that he could put Paris into his Gane; in which word there is an Equivoque, Gane in French signifying a Glove. Yet is the Wall too great for the Buildings, enclosing much void ground. In this City as in Bruges, are 7 Parish Churches, and according to Golu [...]x, about 55 Religious Hou­ses. We ascended the Tower called Bellefort about four hundred Steps high, and saw the famous Bell call [...]d Roland, not so great as we imagined. This City is well built, well wall'd and trench'd about, and the Inhabitants to us seemed very bus [...]e and in­dustrious.

From Gaunt, April 30. we travelled to Brussels, about thirty English Miles distant, passing through Aolst, Aolst [...] a fortified Town of some note.

Brussels is the capital City of Brabant, Brussels. where the Spanish Governour of these Provinces, who was then the Marquess of Caracene, usually resides. It is well built, large and populous. The Streets are broad; the Stadt-house a fair and uniform Build­ing. The Common People here, and also at Ant­werp, [Page 10] Lovain, Mechlin, and other Cities of Brabant, (as hath been noted by others) make use of Dogs to draw little Carts and Wheel-Barrows laden with Commodities about the Streets. But for the Ad­vantage they make of them, setting aside the main­taining of an old Custom, I think they might as well employ their own Arms and Shoulders. In the Gallery by the Riding -place, is an Echo, which reflects the Voice fifteen times as we were assured: We observed about ten distinct Reflections, the Wind hindering us as to the rest. At this time it happened Ludovicus de Bills to be in Town, whom we visited and saw five Bodies which he had with him, embalmed and preserved after his newly invented manner, entire with all their Entrails and Bowels. He was then going to the University of Lovain, with whom he had made an agreement for Discovery of his Art and reading publick Anatomy Lectures.

Our next remove (May 2.) was to Lovain, Lovain. a large City, but neither well built nor well kept, only the Stadt-house is a stately Structure, and makes a fair show at a distance. The Wall is of great extent, more in Circuit than that of Gannt by three Rods, taking in much void ground. The Colleges are in number 43, the Names whereof to­gether with their Founders are exhibited in the en­suing Catalogue which we there found published in Print.

[Page 17] The several Faculties are distinguished by their Habits: Divinity-Students wear constantly Gowns and square Caps; those of other Faculties wear none, except at their publick Exercises in the Schools. The principal Colleges, called Pedagogies, are four. In these only is Philosophy taught by two Profes­sors, the one called Primarius, the other Secunda­rius. Those Students that are Gentlemen sit in a higher Form, called Scamnum Nobilium; and give each of them six Gilders quarterly to the Primarius Professor, and two Patacoons to the Secundarius. Those of inseriour rank who sit in the lower Forms give half so much to each. The Primarius reads in the morning from half an hour after six of the clock till half an hour after seven, then they go to Mass till eight, and after that to their private Studies till ten, then the Professor reads again till eleven. In the afternoon the Secundarius Professor reads from half an hour after one, till half an hour after two. He begins again half an hour after four and reads till half an hour after five. All Students must write after the Professors in a large Note-Book, and in the intervals of Lectures peruse and study what they wrote. The Professors Readings are divided into Dictata, which are Theses or Propositions, and An­notata which are Solutions of Objections. The first thing they require of Students when they come to this University is to be matriculated, and swear their Be­lief of all the Doctrines of the Romish Church. The Close or End of the Oath is the same with that of our Universities, Ita me Deus adjuvet & haec sancta Dei Evangelia.

Young Students give their Names to the Presi­dent of their College or Pedagogy, and for every time they are absent from Lectures are punished a Stiver, which is somewhat more than a Penny English. For every time they miss a publick Exercise in Law or Physick they pay three Sti­vers; [Page 18] if they be to exercise themselves and miss, they are mulcted twenty Stivers. The Students are not allowed to wear Swords about the Streets.

The Professors of each Pedagogy chuse yearly 12 of the best Scholars who are of two years stand­ing. These 48 are publickly examined, and out of them about 12 usually chosen to Burses or Exhibi­tions. The Burses signifie their Diet, Chamber and a greater or less Stipend according as the Bur­ses are. It is very creditable to be chosen to a Burse. He that is the first of the chosen hath a Bell rung for him in his College 48 hours together without intermission. When they are thus chosen, they may go into what College they will and study what they please. They are commonly preferred to Professorships and afterwards to Canons Places. The Degrees here conferred are Batchelour, Licen­tiate and Doctor. In Divinity after two years stand­ing they may be Baccalaurei ourrentes, after another year Baccalaurei formati. Seven years after this they may be Licentiates in Divinity. They are seldom created Doctors till they attain to 50 years of Age, unless they be very eminent for Learning. Every Batchelor is called Doctissimus: A Licentiate in Medicine Peritissimus, in Law Consultissimus, in Di­vinity Eximius: Doctors of Medicine and Law are Clarissimi, of Divinity Eximii Domini & Magistri nostri. When any one goes out Licentiate, there is a Treat­ment made, to which all the Doctors and the Oppo­nents are invited, and have Gloves given them. The Graduate is attended from the Schools with Drums and Trumpets. At his Lodging a Bell is hung up and rung for 24 hours together. He hath liberty to chuse a Coat of Arms, and is immediately reputed a Gentleman.

The men of most note for Learning in this Uni­versity at present [1663.] are Gutischovius, Medi­cinae [Page 19] & Matheseos Professor. Vopiscus Fortunatus Plem­pius, Medicinae Professor primarius, called Fortunatus because he was cut out of his Mothers Womb, as we were informed. Dorlix, Med. Doctor. Sinnichius, Theologiae Doctor, an Irish-man. Pontanus, Theologiae Doctor, Dean of S. Peters, and Censor Librorum. Bradhy, an Irish-man, Juris Canonici Doctor. Loyens, Juris Canonici Doctor. Gulinx was Professor of Philosophy here, but is now turned Protestant, and lives at Leyden: Van Verve, Theol. Professor Prim trius. The publick Schools are old, mean and homely.

May 4. we walked out of Lovain about half a mile to see the D. of Areschot's Palace, and the Cele­stines Cloister adjoining. We found among the Corn by the way-sides as we went, plentifully growing Caryophyllus arvensis umbelliferus J. B. and Alsine foliis hederaceis Rutae modo divisis Lob.Plauts a­bout Lo­vain. both in flower. At this City we first observed Storks, Women-Porters and Soldiers begging on Horse-back.

From Lovain, May 5. we travelled to Mechlin, Malines the French call it,Mechlin. a very elegant and well-built City, exceeding our expectation both for Beauty and Greatness. It is the Seat of an Arch­bishop, and with a small Territory of nine Villa­ges about it makes one of the seventeen Provinces, called the Lordship of Mechlin [...] The Cathedral Church is dedicated to S. Rumbald. Many Manu­factures exercised here of the most gainful sort, as making of Linen Cloth, casting of great Artillery and Bells; and which we especially took notice of, Tanning, there being two or three whole Streets of Tanners.

Hence May 5. we boated to Antwerp, Antwerp a City for Strength and Beauty comparable to any of its big­ness in Europe. For the latter in my opinion, it much excels Florence, with which it is wont to be put in competition. And for the former, it is en­compassed [Page 20] with a Wall of Earth faced with Free­stone, of that thickness that there are several Rows of Trees and broad Walks upon it; and with a Ditch of water of a very great depth and breadth, excepting on that side the River Scheld washes it. So that, considering also the advantage of its Situ­ation in a low and level Countrey, it seemed to me the strongest City in all the Netherlands. The Cita­del first built by the Duke of Alva, and afterward repaired by the Prince of Parma, of a Pentagonal Figure, serves as well to bridle as defend the Town. The Houses of Antwerp are for the most part of Brick, some few wooden ones of the antient Build­ing here and there remaining, which the Owners are not suffered to repair. The Chappel of the Jesuites College is very rich and sumptuous. The Steeple of S. Maries Church is so curiously built and carved, that the Emperour Charles V. (as we were told) was wont to say, that it deserved to be kept in a case and shewn only upon Holy-days. The Exchange or Burse was the Pattern after which our old Royal Exchange was built, but in all respects in­feriour to it, the Copy excelling the Original. The Stadthouse is a magnificent Structure. Several other publick Buildings there are that deserve to be viewed, most of which are represented in the adjoined Map. Plantius Printing-House, menti­oned by Golnitz and others, is for a thing of that nature the best we have any where seen. This City for Trading and Wealth is much decayed since the Low-Countrey Wars. In the Garden of one Franciscus van Steerbeck a Priest, we saw many rare Plants: Among others we took more especial no­tice of Lentiscus, Pistacia, Spiraea Theophrasti, Barba Jovis frutex, Cerasus nana, Amygdalus nana, Althaea montis Olbii in Gallo-provincia, Morus fructu albo, Jasminum hederaceum, Lycium, Rosa sine spinis, Cap­p [...]ris leguminosa sive Fabago, Convolvulus heptaphyllus, [Page 21] Acanthus aculeatus, Esula rara Venetorum, Petroseli­num Macedonicum, Daucus Creticus verus, Convolun­lus Althaeae folio, Thapsia latifolia, Ephemerum Mat­thioli, Pistolochia Virginiana, Pyrethrum verum, Au­ricula ursi folio & flore Boraginis, Sandalida Cretica, Sahdariffae species, Telephium legitimum Antiquorum, Gnaphalium Americanum flore luteo pleno, Spartum marinum, Laurus Alexandrina, Absinthium arbo­rescens, Lilium Allobrogum majus, Geranium tu­berosum Hellebori albi tres species seu potiùs varie­etates, Centaurium majus Helenii folio & Scoly­mi folio, Coralloides, Vrtica fat [...]a Virginiana, Campanula Damascena lactescens flore purpureo & albo.

May 15. we took Boat for Middleburgh; at Lillo a Fort upon the Scheld, Lillo. three Leagues below Ant­werp, belonging to the States of Holland, our Boat was searcht, as are all Vessels going to and from Antwerp. The Wind and Tide favouring us, we reach'd Middleburgh before Sun-set, having made in all this day about 54 English miles. Up­on the Flats we passed over, at a good distance from us, we saw several Sea-Calves upon the Sands.

Middleburgh is the capital City of Zealand, large,Middle­burgh. well-built, having spatious Streets, populous, full of wealthy Merchants, and well fortified, as are generally all Cities and Towns of any account in the United Netherlands. It is situate near the mid­dle of the Isle Walachria, whence no doubt it took it's Name, and not from Metellus, quasi Metelli Bur­gum, as some have fondly imagined. From that side the Island respecting Antwerp is an artificial Chanel cut up to the Town, capable of Ships of good burthen, which come into the Town, the said Chanel passing through and making Havens in three or four of the Streets. There are (as we were informed) about twenty Churches of all sorts [Page 22] in this City, the Lutherans, French, Anabaptists and Jews being here tolerated and allowed places of publick Worship. At the Stadthouse we observed two Eagles kept, which we were told the Citizens were obliged to by their Charter, by which they have great Immunities granted them by the Emperour, as Freedom from Arrests any where but in their own City, &c.

May 16.Flushing. we walked out to Flushing about two miles and an half distant from Middleburgh; a Town once cautionary to the English, though not so large nor so well built as Middleburgh, and ha­ving narrow Streets, yet very considerable for its Strength and Riches, the opportunity of its Situa­tion and conveniency of its Harbour, Ships of good burthen coming up into several Streets of the Town in artificial Chanels, and lying there secure from Wind and Weather.

May 19.Vere. we took another Walk to Vere, called by the Dutch Ter-Vere or Camp-Vere, some three miles distant from Middleburgh to the Northward; a Town for bigness inferiour to Flushing, well for­tified, having two fair Harbours for Ships with broad Wharfs or Keys within the Walls. We re­turned back through Armuyden, a small Town con­sisting of one Street, yet entrench'd about. Here hath been formerly a good Trade driven. By the way we observed the Sea-banks to be faced with a kind of matting of Rushes or Flags staked down as high as the Tide usually arises, to defend them from being washed away by the Water.

May 20.Bergen op Zome. we went by Boat from Middleburgh to Bergen op Zome, passing by Rammekens, a strong Fort at the Entrance of the Chanel leading to Middle­burgh. Bergen is a place of very great Strength, be­sides the Wall and Trench, being fortified with Half Moons, Horn-Works, &c. famous for the no­table Resistance it made first to the Duke of Parma, [Page 23] and afterwards to the Marquess Spinola besieging of it, Anno 1622, At our being there it was held with a strong Garrison, consisting of twelve Com­panies of Foot, two whereof were English, and two Troops of Horse, beside four Companies of Townsmen.

May 21. we travelled to Breda, Breda. eight hours distant from Bergen, for so they reckon or measure their way in these Countreys, by the time they spend in passing it. This Town is considerable for its bigness, well built and populous; of great Strength, being en­compassed with very thick Walls and Mounts of Earth and two Trenches full of Water, the one broad and deep: At our Entrance in we passed through two Ports, and over five Draw-Bridges. It belongs to the Prince of Orange, who hath a Castle and a fair Palace in the Town. Here are maintained in Garrison for defence of this impor­tant Strength thirteen Companies of Foot, two whereof were English at our being there, and four Troops of Horse. Ever since the Surprise of this Town by the Truf-Boat, it is the Custom to search all Boats laden with Commodities that enter here by stabbing them through in sundry places with a Spit.

May 22. we travelled from Breda first to S. Ger­trudenberg, S. Gertru­denberg. belonging to the States, no great Town, but well fortified and entrencht, garrison'd by three Companies of Foot, one whereof was English, and a Troop of Horse: and from Gertrudenberg the same day by water to Dordrecht or Dort, Dort. a large City, very rich and populous, well built with tall Houses of Brick, not inferiour to those of Antwerp. The Streets elegantly paved, in the middle with Stone, and on each side next the houses with Brick set edgeways, so clean that a man may walk them in Slippers without wetting his foot in the midst of Winter. Thus paved and thus cleanly kept are [Page 24] the Streets of all the Cities and great Towns in Holland. The English Merchants have great Privi­leges, and keep their Court in this Town. Here are two English Churches and one French. From the Tower of the principal Church we had a fair Prospect of the City and Countrey adjacent, the Steeple of Breda coming into view. In one of the upper Rooms of the Gunners Doel or Guild sate the Synod assembled here, Anno 1611. The Seats round about are still remaining.

May 23. we took places in one of the Passage-Boats that go off several times daily to Roterdam, Roter­dam. some three Leagues distant from Dort, which brought us thither in five hours. Roterdam is of a triangular Figure, and much larger than I thought it to have been. It equals if not exceeds any City in Holland except Amsterdam and perhaps Leyden. It hath been lately much augmented by the addi­tion of many Streets of new buildings. Near the principal Church dedicated to S. Laurence is a little House where Erasmus was born, over the door of which is placed his Picture, and on one side of that this Distich written,

Under it in Spanish this,

And in Latin this,

In a large Piazza stands a stately Brass Statue erected to his Memory, with the Figure of a Book [Page 25] of the same Metal in its hand, and in the posture of turning over a Leaf, of which in drollery the People say, that every time it hears the Clock strike, it turneth over a Leaf. The Citizens of Roterdam exercise no Handicraft or Manufacture to trade withal, but all their Riches proceed from their Sea-Trade and Merchandise. They have a very good Port, Ships of great Burthen coming up in deep Chanels into the very Town: where they lie se­cure from all danger, and lade and unlade their Commodities at the Merchants doors. The Go­vernment is by a President, four Burgomasters, and twenty four Magistrates or Senators, which they call the Vroetschap. These chuse all publick Officers out of their own number. Themselves continue in place during life, and when any one dies, the rest chuse out of the Citizens another into his room. So that the People have no interest or share at all in the Government. The form of Go­vernment is most what the same in all the other Cities and Towns of Holland, only the number of Counsellours or the Vroetschap is in some more, in some less.

Every hour of the day at the ringing of a Bell goes off a Passage-Boat,Delft. somewhat like our Pleasure-Barges on the Thames, to Delft. We took places in one of these, May 25. which in two hours time brought us to Delft, three Dutch miles. This is also a large City, fair and well-built, water runs through many of the Streets. The Stadthouse is a very handsom Structure. Here are two large Churches, the one called the old, the other the new Kirk. In the middle of the Quire of the new Kirk is a stately Monument erected to the Memory of Grave William of Nassaw, Prince of Orange (who was assassinated here) with this In­scription: ‘[Page 26] D. O. M.
Et
Aeternae memoriae
Guilielmi Nassovii,
Supremi Arausiouensium Prinicipis,
Patr. Patr.
Qui Belgii fortunis suas posthabuit
Et suorum.
Validissimos exercitus aere plurimum privato
Bis conscripsit, bis induxit;
Ordinum auspiciis Hispaniae tyrannidem propulit:
Verae religionis cultum, avitas patriae leges
Revocavit, restituit:
Ipsam deniq [...] libertatem tantùm non assertam
Mauritio Principi
Paternae virtutis [...]haeredi filio
Stabiliendam reliquit;
Herois vere filii, prudentis, invicti:
Quem Philip. II. Hisp. R. ille Europae timor timuit,
Non domuit, non terruit;
Sed empto percussore fraude nefanda
Sustulit.
Foederat. Belg. Provinc.
Perenne mentor, monum.
Fec.
’

In the Quire of the old Kirk is a Monument to Van Trump with this Inscription:

Over his Arms this written, ‘i. e. Del­phi. Vrbs Phoebi cineres jactat, sed currusPhoebi­nimirum seu Solis. honores
Ingreditur quoties egreditur (que) mari.
’

One Jean vander Mere an Apothecary in this Town hath a Musaeum well stored with natural and arti­ficial Rarities, which we viewed, and therein ob­served among many bother things the following particulars. Zibetta or the Civet Cat. Dens Hip­popotami, as he pretended, though it be a Question whether or no there be any such Animal as the Hip­popotamus, Dentes Phocoe, Cornu Gazellae, of these we have since that seen in several Cabinets, Costa Sirenis dicta, Cornua hirci Bezoardici, Cornua & pe­des Alcis; This Animal in English we call an Elk, I take it to be the same which in New England and Virginia they call a Moose, it is of the Deer-kind, the biggest and tallest of that genus. The Horns have no Brow-Antlets, but only a broad palm with several Snags upon it. I have seen one of these Horns at Mr. Holney's an Apothecary in Lewis that weighed 25 pounds: The Skin of an Elk stuft we saw in the Great Duke's Gallery at Florence. Cornu­cervi [Page 28] Americani. The Rattle-Snakes Skin. An Ele­phants Tail, a very small thing considering the bigness of the Animal. Lacertus Indicus squamosus. Acûs piscis 4 species. A piece of a Rhinocerot's Skin. At the Anatomical Theatre we saw the whole Skin of a young Rhinocerot stuft. The Head of a Dol­phin. A Giants tooth, si credere fas sit. The Head of a horned Hare. A Chamaeleon. A Soland-Goose out of Groenland. A Tatou or Armadillo. Os petro­sum Balaenae. A young Whale. A Morse or Sea-horses Head. Guaina, a Fish from the Island Mau­ritius. Petim-buaba or the Tobacco-pipe Fish. Or­bis echinatus. Cancer Moluccanus ex novo Belgio, which some call the Sea-Spider. Corallium nigrum sive Antipathes. Spongia infundibuli specie. Mustela Afri­cana. Indian Habits, an Indian Saddle, several sorts of Indian Bread, Indian Dice, several antient Idols. The Cup Prince William of Nassaw last drank out of. Penecillum Sinense. A Japan Letter writ­ten to the Dutch Governour, odly painted. Passer Brasiliensis. Several sorts of Tominio's or humming Birds. A Feather-Garment from the Streights of Mageliane. Siliqua arboris sacciferae. Nidus avis ex Surat. Cancer Americanus. Many sorts of Indian Tobacco-Pipes from New Belgium. A Dart from Fretum Davis, wherewith the Natives kill Fish. A Locust of that sort that S. J. Baptist ate in the Wil­derness. Onocrotali caput. Rostrum Rhinocerotis avis sive Corvi Indici cornuti of Bontius, which is worth twelve Florens at Amsterdam. A Cassawaries or Emeus Egg. A Pelecans Skin and Bill. Many sorts of Indian Weapons from Brasil. Eggs of an In­dian Goose. Cor Veneris [a Shell like a Nerites.] Star-Stones from Compostella. Several Indian and exotick Fruits and Seeds. Putorius Africanus with Hairs spotted like the Quills of a Porcupine.

In this City is a Chirurgical and Anatomical The­ater, where Lectures are read every Wednesday, and [Page 29] several Rarities preserved, as the Skin of a young Rhinocerot stuft, before-mentioned. Lacertus squa­mosus of a different kind from what we had before seen. Manucodiatae seu avis Paradisi nova species. A flying Squirrel. The Sceleton of a Dolphin. The Tail of an Indian Peacock. The Head of an Ele­phant. The Horns of a Hare. The Head of a Babi­roussa; it hath two long Tushes on the lower Jaw, and on the upper two Horns that come out a little above the Teeth and turn up toward the Eyes. In the Entry below hangs a Groenland man in his Boat, of which we have seen in several places, particularly in the Trinity-House at Hull.

This Town is noted for good earthen Ware, as Stone-Jugs, Pots, &c. of which great Plenty is made here. The Government is by a Praetor, two Burgomasters, seven Eschevins, and forty Senators, which they call here as in other Towns of Holland, the Vroetschap.

May 28. we went by Boat in an hours time from Delf to the Hague, Hague. which though not walled about is rather a great City than a Village. It hath fair Streets, stately and beautiful Houses, especially about the Palace where the States sit. Near this Town is a large Grove full of pleasant Walks; where we first observed Monophyllum growing wild in great plenty. At Scheveling a Village by the Sea-Side, a mile from the Hague, we found a sort of Spar­tum maritimum much taller and larger than our English kind.

From the Hague we made an excursion to a Vil­lage called Lausdun, Lausdun. distant about an hour and halfs riding, famous for the Burial of the Countess of Zealand and her 365 Children. The two Brass Ba­sins in which they are reported to have been baptized hang up still in this Church, an over them this In­scription, which contains the History.

[Page 31] May 31. we took places in one of the Passage Boats from the Hague to Leyden, Leyden. which brought us thither in three hours. These Boats are drawn to and fro by Horses. Leyden is next to Amsterdam I think the greatest City in Holland; and well built. In the great Church dedicated to S. Peter, are many Monuments set up to the Memory of persons emi­nent for Learning, as Heurnius the famous Physician, Bontius, Tho. Erpenius, Rembertus Dodonaeus, Anto­nius Thysius, Festus Hommius, Everardus Bronckhorst, and others, their Inscriptions you may find in Hege­nitius his Itinerarium Hollandiae. In the French Church lie buried Joseph Scaliger, Carolus Clusius, Willebrordus Snellius and Joannes Polyander à Kerck­hove.

The Schools are Pile of Building of Brick, three Stories high, containing two Rooms on a Floor. The lower two are the Divinity and Phy­sick Schools. The middle the Law and Philosophy Schools. The uppermost or Garrets are the Officina Elzeviriana. The following Series Lectionum (of which sort there is one yearly printed and affixed to the School-gates) will give an account, what were the Names of the Professors in each Faculty at the time of our being there, and what Books and at what hours they read.

Adjoining to the School-Yard is the Physick­Garden, a Square of less than an Acre of Ground, but well stored with Plants, of which there have been at sundry times several Catalogues printed. Here are no Colleges for Students to live in, as in our Universities, (excepting two of the nature of Hospitals for the maintenance only of poor Scho­lar [...]) but the Students live in private Lodgings in [Page 36] the Town, where they can best provide themselves. No Scholastical Habits as Gowns or Caps worn by any of the Students, but they walk up and down, come to the Schools, and perform their Exercises in Cloaks. The Professors when they read Lectures or preside at Disputations wear Gowns. No cap­ping Professors or University-Officers in the publick Schools, but all the Students are covered both at Lectures and Disputations, not only in the Uni­versity, but in all the Universities we have been at beyond the Seas. If an desire to be admitted of the University, they go to the Rector magnificus, who gives them each a Seal, and then they are freed from paying Exeise. The Students usually list themselves under some Professor, who reads to them in private, running through a whole Faculty, which they call Collegium instituere, and for this they give a Gratuity to the Professor. In conferring Degrees here is no Respect had to Standing. When any one intends to commence in any Faculty, he makes Theses upon the Subject he intends to an­swer, which Theses are printed, and these he is obli­ged to defend against all Opponents. The Respon­dent hath his Seat under the Prosessors, as in our Schools: for the Opponents there is no particular Seat, but in any part of the Schools where they happen to be, they arise and there stand and oppose, first asking leave of the Professor that presides at the Act. Any one that pleases may oppose with the Professors leave. Liberalium Artium Magister and Doctor are the only Degrees conferred here. Each of the Professors have 200 or 300 l. per an. stipend allowed them by the States.

The chief Trade of this City is Clothing. The Roofs of the Houses are more steep than ordi­nary, made so on purpose to cast the Rain-Water into a Chanel or Trough, which conveys it into a large Cistern, where it is kept for the uses of the [Page 37] House. Great Chanels of Water pass through ma­ny of the Streets. On the Tower of the Stadt­house stands a Watchman, who blows a Trumpet every hour, and if any Fire happens he sounds an Alarm. Below stands a Guard of thirty armed Soldiers, and at each Port ten. Every hour of the night a man goes about the Streets, and making a noise with a Rapper, tells with a loud voice what of the Clock it is. In the Anatomical Theater are preserved many Sceletons of Men and Beasts, Skins of Beasts, parts of exotic Animals, and other Ra­rities. We noted a horned Beetle from the East-Indies; an Armadillo; petrified Mushromes; La­pis ceraunias; Caput porci fluviatilis è Brasiliâ Ala Hirundinis marinae ex Oceano Orientali; Gammari Aethiopici; Thus fossile Moravicum; Capsula Chinensis cum capite animalis partim cervinam, partim porcinam naturam repraesentante ex insulâ Celebes Indiae Orien­talis; Niduli crustacei ex cautibus regni Jehovae, quae à Chinensibus in deliciis habentur, these we saw after­wards in Kircher's Musaeum at Rome and elsewhere; Folium Betle sive Siri, it resembles the great Satyrion Leaf: Of these Leaves and the Fruit of the Tree Arek mingled with a little Chalk is made the Indian Betle which is very stomachical and a great Regale at visits. Faba Aegyptia sive Bonamicia; Elephants Skulls; Guandur formicas vorans or the Ant-Bear, Myrenceter, bigger than an Otter, having a very long Snout, long crooked Claws, coarse bristly Hair, and a long brush Tail; Grallae sive Calopodia Norvegica; a Fish with two Feet; Capriscus Rondeletii, Tigris capta in Jacatra regno. In the publick Library are preserved the Manuscripts of Joseph Scaliger, and Libri Orientales quos Vir Cl. Jacobus Golius impensis publicis ex Oriente huc advexit. This Town is well walled and trencht about, encompassed with plea­sant Walks of Lime-Trees. He that desires more particular Information concerning the University [Page 38] and publick Buildings of the City, &c. may consult Meursius his Athenae Batavae and Hegenitius his Itine­rarium Hollandiae.

Before we left Leyden we made a by-Journey to Sevenhuys, Seven­huys. a Village about four leagues distant, to see a remarkable Grove, where in time of year se­veral sorts of Wild-Fowl build and breed. We ob­served there in great numbers (1.) Scholfers i. e. Gracculi palmipedes, in England we call them Shags, they are very like to Cormorants, only less. We were much surprised to see them, being a whole-footed Bird, alight and build upon Trees. (2.) Le­pelaers, called by Gesner Plateoe sive Pelecani, by Al­drovandus Albardeolae, we may term them in Eng­lish Spoon-Bills. (3.) Quacks or Ardeae cinereae minores, the Germans call this Bird the Night-raven, because it makes a noise in the Night, Nocte cla­mat voce absonâ & tanquam vomiturientis. Gesner. (4.) Reyers or Herons. Each sort of Fowl hath its several Quarter. When the young are ripe, they who farm the Grove with an Iron Hook fastned to the end of a long Pole lay hold on the Bough on which the Nest is built, aud shake the young ones out, and sometimes Nest and all down to the ground. Besides the fore-mentioned Birds there build also in this Wood Ravens, Wood-Pigeons and Turtle-Doves. This place is rented for 3000 Gilders per Annum of the Baron of Pelemberg, who lives at Lovain, only for the Birds and Grass. By the way to this Place we observed in the Ditches Lysimachia lutea flore glo­boso, and Arum sive Dracunculus aquaticus. All the Countrey about Sevenhuys towards Leyden is a flat or fenny Level, full of shallow Pools of Water; there we observed their manner of making Turf. They rake or fish up Mud from the bottom of the Water with a Net like a Hoop-Net fastned to the end of a Pole, and fill therewith a flat-bottomed Boat. Out of the Boat they throw this Mud with [Page 39] a long Shovel or Scoop on an even piece of ground, making of it a Bed of an equal thickness so near as they can; there it lies to drain and dry: After a while they tread it with broad Boards fastned under their feet to make it close and smooth. When it is moderately dry, they cut the whole Bed with a kind of Spade into pieces of the bigness of a Brick. These they pile up in small conical Stacks or long Ranks, laying the Turves so, that a man may see through the Stacks, and the Wind blow through them, to be further dried. At last they house them in Barns that are thatcht, the sides not walled up close, but made of wooden Bars set at a little distance one from another.

June 6. we took Boat for Haerlem, Haerlem. where we arrived at four hours end. This is a large, popu­lous and pleasant City, strongly wall'd and entren­ched. Water is brought through many of the Streets. Without the Walls towards Leyden are pleasant Groves. In the Summer-House in the Garden of the Princes Court here, is a Picture of Laurentius Costerus, in a furr'd Gown, holding the Letter A in his Hand, and this Inscription over it, ‘M. S. Viro Consulari, Laurentio Costero Harle­mensi alteri Cadmo, & Artis Typographicae circa Annum Domini MCCCCXXXX Inventori pri­mo.’

His Statue and the Inscription on his House in the Market-place, mentioned by Hegenitius, we could not find, being as we were told, lately bought and removed thence. The Butchery of this Town is a handsome Building and covered with Lead, which we thought not unworthy the notice-taking, it having been the first publick Building that we saw so rooft since we left England. The Citizens here drive a great Trade of Weaving as well Silks, v. g. Damask, Velvet, Sattin, Taffaty, &c. as Linen [Page 40] Cloth, Tiffany, Holland, &c. On the Sea-Coast near Haerlem and all along North-Holland, are great sandy Hills or Downs, which are a great defence to the Countrey hereabout against the Encroachments of the Sea.

June 8. From Haerlem we boated to Amsterdam, Amster­dam. two hours distant. [...] About the mid-way we passed by two great Mears where we changed our Boat. At the Port of Amsterdam stand two armed Sol­diers, one within, the other without. This is the greatest City in all the Low-Countries, and one of the richest and best traded Empories of the whole World. At our being there we judged it to be about the bigness of Venice, and lesser than one half of London; but they had then taken in and enclo­sed with a substantial Wall and Trench, a great space of Ground, wherein they had designed and set out Streets, with intention to make their City for bigness also comparable with the best of Europe, London and Paris not excepted. I hear since, that this void Ground is filled with Rows of stately and beautiful Houses. The publick Buildings we espe­cially took notice of were, (1.) The New Stadthouse lately erected, the old one having been burnt down to the Ground in three hours space (as we were told) June 7, 1651. but (as I find it in the Printed Description of Amsterdam) in July 1652. This is a magnificent Pile of Building, of a square figure, large and tall. The Outside or Facing of the Walls round about is of Free-Stone, the body of the Walls of Brick. It is reported, that the Foundati­on of this Structure under ground cost as much as the Superficies above ground, viz. 100000 l. sterling. The Describer of Amsterdam saith, that it standeth upon 13659 great Masts or Piles driven into the ground. (2.) The Burse or Exchange, like our old Royal Exchange at London, but not a perfect Square, being longer than it is broad. The first Stone of [Page 41] this Building wad laid May 29, 1608. and the first meeting of the Merchants there August 1, 1613. Merchants of all Nations resort thither, but of all Strangers the Jews are the most numerous, who fill one Walk. (3.) The Admiralty-House, a hand­some Building with fair Rooms. (4.) The Maga­zine, and (5.) the several Hospitals and Houses of Correction. In this City is an Athenaeum or Schola illustris, in which are maintain'd six Professors, who read publick Lectures in several Faculties in Summer-time. Here is also a publick Physick-Garden. The Jews are here allowed the free and open Exer­cise of their Religious Worship. They live together in one Quarter of the City, and are said to be in number about 20000 souls. They are in better condition and richer than in most places where they are tolerated. They are for the most part of a dark or tawny Complexion and have black hair. Not only the Jewish but all other Religions, the Romish not excepted, are here tolerated. But if any beside those of the State-Religion build Churches, they are prohibited to erect Steeples, or make use of Bells for the assembling of the Pople. In the new Church is a handsome Monument to John van Galen, with this Inscription:

In this Church is a stately Pulpit said to have cost 1000 l. sterling the building. We were told that in this City there were 24 Ministers pensioned by the States.

The Government is by a Scout or Praetor,The Go­vernment of Amster­dam. four Burgomasters, nine and Scabins, and 36 Counsellors, or Senators, which they call the Vroetschap. The Scout is Stadtholder of Holland, ad hath the first place in the Bench of Scabins. He is chosen to this Office by the Burgomasters with the consent and approbation of the Vroetschap for three years: though he may continue in Office six or more, if they see good. He must have been a Freeman at least seven years fore he be chosen. His Office is with the Burgomasters and Scabins to make Laws and Constitutions: to ap­prehend and imprison all Malefactors within the Li­berties of the City. He, as chief Judge in civil as well as criminal Causes, hears the Pleadings, and with consent of the Burgomasters Scabins pronounces Sentence, condemning the guilty to Death, if the Cause require, and taking care that the Sentence be executed. In other Cities the Praetor hath to do only in criminal Causes, being no more than the Commonwealths Solicitor or publick Accuser and Prosecutor of Malefactors.

The number of Burgomasters is twelve, whereof four are regent yearly. They must not be under forty years of age. Every year by the major Vote of all the Burgomasters that have ever been Scabins, three out of the twelve are chosen to be Regents, [Page 43] which three newly elect take to themselves a fourth out of the three chosen the year before, who gives the three new ones their Oaths, and hath the Pre­sidency the three first Moneths. Out of the other eight are other Officers chosen, as Treasurers, Ma­sters of Hospitals; one for the Convention of the States at the Hague; one for the Council of the Ad­miralty in Amsterdam, &c. The Burgomasters Office is to govern the City, to arbitrate differences be­tween man and man, to take care of the Streets, Walls, Houses and publick Buildings, &c. When one of the twelve dies, another is chosen into his room by the Vroetschap. As for the Scabins, the Vroetschap chuse fourteen persons, out of which the Burgomasters take seven; but so that none of them be near of kin to the Scout or the Regent Burgoma­sters. To these seven the new and old Burgomasters with the new chosen Scabins do by most voices add two out of the seven that were chosen the last year; the which two for that year are the first and second Presidents. The Scabins are Judges in all Causes civil and criminal.

The Council of 36 or Vroe [...]schap continue in place during Life, and when one dies the rest chuse an­other into his room, but none under 25 years of age. This Council chuses the fourteen Scabins, and is assembled upon important occasions by the Burgomasters for their Advice and Direction in the weighty Affairs and Concerns of the City. The Supreme Power seems chiefly to rest in these.

Formerly none was capable of being Burgomaster except his Father had been a Freeman a year and six weeks before he was born; but of late they have made a Constitution, that he who will pay five hundred Gilders, may be made free of the City, and capable of being Burgomaster after seven years. Any one may be made a Freeman for fifty [Page 44] Gilders, but then he shall never be capable of being chosen Burgomaster.

The Describer of Amsterdam saith that there were in that City 18 years ago 54000 Houses, whereas in Paris there were then but 46000, which is a thing by no means to be credited.

The Militia of Amsterdam consists of 54 Compa­nies divided into five Regiments, each containing eleven Companies, and every Company consisting of 150 men, so that the whole amounts to 8250. Two Companies watch every night for the guard of the City.

June 16. we took Boat for Vtrecht, Vtrecht. where we arrived at six hours end. This is a great Town and the head of a Province, environed with a thick and high Wall and a deep Trench. The Streets and Buildings far short of the Elegancy, Beauty and Cleanliness of those in Holland; much like the Houses and Streets of our English Towns. Water runs through many of the Streets in deep Chanels. The Domo or Cathedral Church hath a great tall Tower, ascended by 460 Steps, from whence we had a fair Prospect of the City and Countrey round about. Here is an University erected by the States of the United Provinces in the year 1636. Who were the Professors in each Faculty at the time of our being here, the following Series Lectionum will acquaint the Reader.

The Garrison consisted of eight Companies of Soldiers, whereof one was English. The Govern­ment is by an upper and under Scout, and four Bur­gomasters, whereof two new chosen yearly.

June 18. we went by Boat to Vianen, Vianen. passing over a Branch of the River Rhene called the Lech. This is a privileged Town, wall'd and trench'd about, subject to the Lord of Brederode. Here we noted an Engine or wheel for the weaving of Inkle and Tape, which moves many Shuttles at once. The same day we travelled on to Leerdam, Leerdam three hours distant from Vianen, a small inconsiderable Town, belonging to the Prince of Orange.

June 19. we passed through Asperen Asperen. a small wall'd Town, and further on ferried over the River [Page 48] Wale (Vahalis in Latine) to a pretty pleasant wall'd Town called Bommel standing in an Island.Bommel.

Here lay in Garrison four Companies of Soldiers, whereof one of Scotchmen.

Not far from hence we ferried over the Mose, and passed by a strong Fort nigh the Water called Creve­coeur, Creve­coeur. and not much further another called Engelen, and after four hours came to the Bosch, The Bosch. Hertogen­bosch the Dutch call it, and the French Bois le duc, i. e. Sylva Ducis. Before we entred the Town, we passed through a Water and over two Draw Brid­ges. This Place is situate on a Hill in the midst of a low fenny Level of a great extent, the greatest part whereof is (at least now was) covered with Water, so that the only Avenues to the Town are upon artificial Causways. It is encompassed with a strong Wall and a deep Trench. At one end stands a Citadel strongly fortified, which commands the Town. By reason of its Situation and Fortifi­cations, one would judge this Place impregnable, yet hath it been taken in the late Wars. At our being there were kept in Garrison for the Defence of this important Strength 21 Companies of Foot and four Troops of Horse. In the Quire of S. Johns Church are painted the Arms of many of the Knights of the Golden Fleece and over the upper Stalls or Seats this written in French, Le treshaut & tres puis­sant Philip, dit le bon, &c. which because it con­tains the History of the Authors first Institution and Model of this Order, I thought fit to translate into English, and here set down. ‘The most High and Mighty prince Philip called the Good, by the Grace of God Duke of Burgundy, Lorain and Bra­bant, in the year 1429. in the City of Bruges, did in imitation of Gedeon create and institute to the Honour of God and the virgin Mary, and for the sake of S. Andrew Protector and Patron of Burgundy, a Company or Society of Honourable [Page 49] Knights, into which might be received Emperors, Kings, Dukes, Marquesses and other Personages, as well of his own Subjects as of forein Countries, provided they were of Noble bloud and good fame: and called these great Persons, Knights of the Golden Fleece, to whom he gave for perpetual Chief, him that should be lawful Duke of Burgundy, and have the Seigneury or Lordship of the Low-Countries; li­miting their number to 24, comprehending also the Chief. And for occurrences and use of the Order he created four Honourable Officers, viz. A Chan­cellor, a Treasurer, a Secretary, and a King of Arms. And for the Establishment and well regu­lating of this Order he made notable Statutes and Ordinances’. The Houses of this Town are of a different make from those of Holland, the outside being covered with Boards, like those of Eden­burgh in Scotland. We observed great store of wild Fowl to frequent the Waters hereabout; and found growing wild Herniaria hirsuta on the sandy and gravelly Banks.

June 20. We took a Wagon drawn by three Horses abreast, as is usual in these Countries, which in six hours time brought us to Eindhoven, Eindho­ven. a small wall'd Town; and thence in four hours more to Haumont. Hau­mont. a pitiful walled Town belonging to the Bishop of Liege. June 21. Three hours Riding brought us to another little wall'd Town called Bry; Bry. the Houses whereof were old and decaying. Be­tween Haumont and this place, we rode over Heaths of great extent, called the Champagne. We then left the level Countrey and ascended some Hills, from whence we had a pleasant Prospect of the Mose and Maestricht, Mae­stricht. where we arrived this Evening, though it be accounted seven hours distant from Bry. This City is fortified with good Outworks, besides a strong Wall and Trench, garrisoned with 31 Companies of Foot, and six Troops of Horse, [Page 50] it being a great Town and a Frontier. Half of the Magistrates are Protestants and half of the Romish Religion. The greater part of the Citizens Ro­manists. There are in Town near 20 Cloisters or Monasteries of both Sexes; and they have the free and publick Exercise of their Religious Worship. For the Protestants there are three Dutch Churches, and one English and French, which those Nations use alternately. The old Buildings of his City are like those of the Bosch; but since the States have been Masters of it, it is become a rich and thriving place, and they are building fair new brickt Houses space. They were also setting up a large Stone Stadthouse, of a square Figure, resembling that at Amesterdam. The River Meuse divides the City into two parts, which are joined together by a broad stone-Bridge of nine Arches. The lesser part over the Water is called, Wick. The Garrison-Soldiers are all Protestants.

The Common People of Holland, The Man­ners and particular Customs of the Low-Dutch. especially Inn­keepers, Wagoners (Foremen they call them) Boat­men and Porters are surly and uncivil. The Wa­goners bait themselves and their Horses four or five times in a days Journey. Generally the Dutch men and women are almost always eating as they travel, whether it be by Boat, Coach or Wagon. The men are for the most part big-boned are gross-bodied. The first Dish at Ordinaries and Entertainments is usually a Salade, Sla they call it, of which they eat abundance in Holland. Their Meat they commonly stew and make Hotchpots of it. Puddings neither here nor in any place we have travelled beyond Sea do they eat any, either not knowing the goodness of the Dish, or not having the Skill to make them: Puddings and Brawm are Dishes proper to England. Boil'd Spinage minc'd and buttered (sometimes also with Currans added) is a great Dish all over these Countreys. The Common People feed much upon [Page 51] Cabiliau (that is Cod-fish) and pickled Herrings, which they know how to cure or prepare better than we do in England. You shall seldome fail of hung Beef in any Inn you come into, which they cut into thin slices and eat with Bread and Butter, laying the slices upon the Butter. They have four or five sorts of Cheese, three they usually bring forth and set before you. (1.) Those great round Cheeses, coloured red on the outside, commonly in England called Holland-Cheeses. (2.) Cummin-seed Cheese. (3.) Green Cheese, said to be so coloured with the juice of Sheeps Dung. This they scrape upon Bread buttered, and so eat. (4.) Sometimes Angelot's. (5.) Cheese like to our common Countrey Cheese. Milk is the cheapest of all Belly-Provisions. Their strong Beer, (thick Beer they call it, and well they may) is sold for three Stivers the Quart, which is more than three pence English. All manner of Vi­ctuals both Meat and Drink are very dear, not for the Scarcity of such Commodities, but partly by reason of the great Excise and Impost wherewith they are charged, partly by reason of the abundance of Money that is stirring here. By the way we may note, that the dearness of this sort of Provisions is an argument of the Riches of a Town or Coun­trey, these things being always cheapest in the poor­est places. Land is also here sold at 30 or 40 years Purchase, and yet both Houses and Land set at very high annual Rents: So that were not the poor Workmen and Labourers well paid for their pains, they could not possibly live. Their Beds are for the most part like Cabbins, inconveniently short and narrow, and yet such as they are, you pay in some places ten Stivers a night the man for them, and in most six. There is no way for a Stranger to deal with Inn-keepers, Wagoners, Porters and Boat­men, but by bargaining with them before-hand. Their Houses in Holland are kept clean with extra­ordinary [Page 52] ordinary niceness; and the Entrance before the Door curiously paved with Stone. All things both within and without, Floor, Posts, Walls, Glass, Houshold-stuff marvellously clean, bright, and hand­somly kept: nay some are so extraordinarily cu­rious as to take down the very Tiles of their Pent­houses and cleanse them. Yet about the preparing and dressing of their Victuals our English Houswives are, I think, more cleanly and curious than they. So that no wonder Englishmen were formerly noted for excessive eating, they having greater temptation to eat, both from the goodness of their Meat, and the curiosity of the dressing it, than other nations.

In the principal Churches of Holland are Organs, which usually play for some time after the Sermon is done. The Collections for the Poor are made in Ser­mon-time, a Purse with a Bell hanging at the bottom of it and fastned to the end of a Pole being by the Collector reach'd to every one. The Psalm to be sung is marked upon Slates, which are hung up and down the Churches. The People of these Countreys buy and sell small Commodities, and travel by Wagon or Boat upon the Lords Days. Their travelling Wagons are some covered and some open: few travel on Horse­back. No Beggars to be seen in all Holland, care being taken to set on work all that are able, and Provision made for the aged and impotent. There are in this one Province of Holland three or four and twenty walled Towns and Cities, and six of these at least, beside Amsterdam, bigger than any we have in England except London; and Amsterdam by this time well approaches to the Bigness of London.

To these I shall add some Observations concern­ing the Low-Countries, made by my much honoured Friend Francis Barnham Esq deceased, at his being there in the Retinue of my Lord Ambassadour Holles.

[Page 53] In all the Cities and Towns of Note throughout the Vnited Netherlands there is a continual Watch kept night and day upon the highest Steeple, for the more ready and speedy discovery of Fires, or other things of a surprising nature, which we have already noted in our Description of the City of Leyden.

All Differences arising between Skippers and Fore­men, &c. are decided by casting the Die: this we often observed them to do, when several of them strove who should carry us.

The Rain that falls upon the Houses is by Pipes and Gutters conveyed into a Cistern, and there reserved for the uses of the House, as at Venice in Italy. This particular we have also before taken notice of in the Description of Leyden.

The generality of the Dutch from the better sort to the meanest, do much dread their Superiours: I think the cause is, because upon Complaint made, there is speedy care taken to do Justice.

The generality of the People of all sorts are strange­ly given to the humour of running up and down to see any new or strange thing. The Common sort have any thing that is rich or gay in great admira­tion, insomuch that when my Lord Holles made his Entry into Breda, the Coronets that were on the top of his Coach were talkt of with wonder all the Countrey over.

The People universally are great lovers of Mo­ney, very covetous and greedy of Gain, yet in their Bargains punctual and just. The Knowledge of most of them extends no further than the Arts of getting Money, and an ability to talk of State-Affairs, wherein you shall meet with mean persons very well seen: I think the Reason may be, because the lowest of them is not without hopes of coming to be a Burger, and at last one of the States.

[Page 54] I cannot allow the Low-Dutch to be of a valiant and couragious temper generally, notwithstanding they fight so well at Sea; For the Constitution of their Bodies which is Phlegmatic, and the tempe­rature of the Air which is moist, and their Diet which is gross and foggy, forbid it.

Yet are there few or none in these Countries that die of Consumptions.

There is Liberty of all Religions and Professions, but abundance of Spies to watch them, that they disturb not the publick Peace.

I think it harder to be a Traitor under the Go­vernment of Holland than under any other Kingdom or State, because they seem to be more watchful and suspicious.

The People say and print what they please, and call it Liberty.

The better, much more the worse, sort have little sense of Honour, governing themselves more by the Rules of Profit and Advantage, than of Ge­nerosity and Decorum.

Murder is not prosecuted with so much diligence and concern as Felony or Theft.

The times of the day for Marriages and Burials are limited, but with difference is respect of places; for at Breda they must bury their dead before 12 of the clock, and at Amsterdam not till the After­noon.

When any famous Deed or Exploit is done by any of their Nation, it is represented to the People with all insinuating circumstances, to make them proud of the Honour of being Subjects in a State where such mighty deeds are done. Besides, for encouragement there is for the most part a Monu­ment or Statue erected to the memory of them who do great things.

Their Solemnizations of Victoirs, as they call them, seems to me of great use, like Triumphs [Page 55] among the Romans. For those Bonfires and other expressions of Joy do make glad the People, and give them better thoughts of their Governours, and dis­pose them to their service.

In the service of God the People seem more de­lighted and concerned in that part of Worship which consists in singing than any other, and they provide more for it. For in their Churches there are few other Books among them than Psalters bound up with the Church-Catechism.

The common sort of Women (not to say all) seem more fond of and delighted with lascivious and obscene Talk than either the English or the French.

The Women are said not much to regard Chastity while unmarried, but when once married none more chast and true to their Husbands.

The Women even of the better sort do upon little Acquaintance easily admit saluting with a Kiss: and it is familiarly used among themselves either in Frolicks or upon Departures and Returns though never so short.

The Women are in a sense Privy-Counsellors to their Husbands [...] for they are for the most part privy to all their Actions: and the Men seldom do any thing without their Advice and Consent. Yet doth not this Indulgence enamour them of their own Nation; for it is said, that if a Woman can get an English Husband, she will never marry a Dutch.

The Dutch when they see their Friends at the point of Death, and past all hope of Recovery, out of Pity and Tenderness desirous to rid them out of their Pain, will sometimes hasten their end by withdrawing the Pillow or the like. Thus far Mr. Barnham.

In most of the Cities and Towns in the Nether­lands there are a great number of chiming little [Page 56] Bells which seldom rest, but were to us trouble­some with their frequent Jangling. But for Rings of great Bells all Europe cannot shew so many as England alone, so that it might well be called the Ringing Island.

A multitude of Storks frequent these Countries, building upon their Chimnies in the Towns and Cities as well as Villages; but not in the Territories of Common-wealths only (as some imagine) but of Kings and Princes also, as at Lovain and elsewhere in the King of Spain's Countrey, and in Germany in several Princes Dominions.

June 22. we travelled from Maestricht to Liege four Leagues distant. In the side of a Hill we a­scended at some distance from Maestricht, we saw an arched Passage into a Vault (as we were inform­ed) some two hours in length. A good way within under ground they dig Stone which here they bring out in Carts. It being a wet season we made no stay to go into this Vault, therefore I have added here the Description of it out of the Philosophical Transactions Numb. 67. pag. 2051.

There is an excellent Quarry within Cannon-shot of Maestricht upon the very brink of the River Mase, lying in a Hill, where there are about 25 Fathoms of Rock and Earth over head; the length of the Hill being of some miles extending along the River towards Liege, situate on the same River; and towards Maestricht having in breadth some half or quarter of a mile, but somewhat more further off. This Quarry hath one Entry towards the Ri­ver, where Carts can pass with great case, and un­load the Stones upon the brink of the River, the Quarry within lying parallel to the Horizon or Level, (which is a great advantage) and elevated but very little above the River. This same Quarry which hath well nigh undermined the whole Hill, affords one of the most surprising Prospects, when [Page 57] well lighted with many Torches, that one can ima­gine. For there are thousands of square Pillars in large level Walks, and those almost every where above twenty, and in some places many more foot high, and all wrought with so much neatness and regularity, that one would think it had been made rather with curious Workmanship for an under­ground Palace, than that those Pillars and Galle­ries were made by Quarriers that did it only for getting Stone to build above ground. This Quarry serveth the People that live thereabouts for a kind of impregnable Retreat when Armies march that way. For being acquainted with all the ways in it, they carry into it whatsoever they would have safe, as well their Horse and Cattel as their moveable Fur­niture, till the danger be over, there being so vast a deal of room, that 40000 people may shelter themselves in it. And he that should attempt to seek them out in this vast Wilderness of Walks and Pillars, without an expert Guide, would not only be in hazard of losing his way, but of being knockt on the head at the corner of every Pillar, where People lurking in the dark with their Carbines and Fowling-Pieces would have fair opportunity of shooting at them by the Light of their own Tor­ches, &c. vide.

Further upon the Downs we saw three or four more of these Passages, and from hence had again a very pleasant Prospect of Maestricht and the Coun­trey about the River Mose.

Liege or Luyck is a large City,Liege. but not comparable to the Holland Towns for Beauty or Riches; built for the most part of Timber; some of the Houses being covered with boards after the Scotch fashion, and some with Slate [the Walls I mean,] the rest uncovered and of Clay. The Streets are neither broad not clean-kept. The River Mose here divides itself, and runs through the Town in two or three [Page 58] Branches, over which are several Bridges. Here is a convenient Key, and upon the River we ob­served Boats of an extraordinary length, the like whereto we had before seen at Vtrecht and Dort. This City is pleasantly situate and environed almost round with Hills. On the Brow of a Hill which hangs over it, stands a Fort or Castle which com­mands it. Upon the sides of these Hills are abun­dance of Orchards and Cherry-Gardens: On those near the City we first saw Vineyards; though there are near Lovain, which we saw not. All Belly-Provisions are cheap here. A great many of Poor and Beggars you meet with at every corner, but they are not importunate if denied. The Coun­trey People are civil, well-manner'd and kind to Strangers. The Women are of a dusky Com­plexion, and generally not so handsom as the Hol­landers. They do a great deal of Drudgery, the poorer sort carrying Coals and other Burthens on their backs in Baskets of a Conical Figure, to the end or bottom of which they apply a stiff Baston, and so rest themselves without setting down their Burthens. Near this City are gotten Coals in great plenty, but they lie very deep under ground; some of us went down into a Pit 150 yards deep. The Coal are like our Stone-Coal. The arts they use to get Air enough to serve them in the bottom of these Delfs see in the Philosoph. Transact.

At Luyck they use also for Fewel a sort of round Balls made of Clay mixed with a certain proportion of Coal, beaten small, tempered together, and dri­ed in the Sun, which they call Hotshots. These we never saw used any where but here, though the making of them is described in many Books. They serve to slake the Heat of the Fire, and keep the Coals from burning out too fast. Here and at Na­mur (as we were told) are made Stone-Pots and Jugs. The Cathedral Church is dedicated to S. Lam­bert, [Page 59] to which belong 60 Canonici majores, who must be all of Noble Blood, except some few Scho­lars which they may chuse in. By these the Bishop and Prince of Liege is elected. Besides these there are twelve Canonici mediocres and twelve minores sive parvae mensae. On weighty occasions the Prince as­sembles the States of the Countrey for their Advice. The Clergy, Gentry and Commons send their several Deputies to these Conventions. No Law can be made nor any great Tax imposed without their consents. In this City are an incredible number of Monasteries or Religious Houses as they call them. In the Garden of the English Jesuites Col­lege we saw many ingenious Dials invented by Fran­ciscus Linus. In the Church of the Gulielmites Cloi­ster without the Walls we saw Sir John Mondeville's Tomb-Stone.

In the Vestry are kept his Saddle, Spurs and Bridle-bit, as also two great Knives, which the Monks, who shew'd us these things, told us were given him by the Emperor of the Turks, being such as himself used. Upon his Tomb-Stone was this Inscription: ‘HIC JACE [...] VIR NOBILIS DNS JOES DE MANDEV [...]LLE AL' DICTUS AD BAR­BAM MILES DNS DE CAPDI NATUS DE ANGLIA, MEDICINE PROFESSOR, DE­VOTISSIMUS ORATOR ET BONORUM LARGISSIMUS PAUPERIBUS EROGATOR, QUI TOTO QUASI ORBE LUSTRATO, LEODII DIEM VITE SUE CLAUSIT EX­TREMUM ANNO DNI M^o CCC^o LXXI^o MENSIS NOVEMBRIS DIE XVII.’

Thereon was also engraven the Figure of an armed man, treading on a Lion, having a forked [Page 60] Beard, his Hand lift up to his Head in a blessing Posture, and these words going out of his Mouth, VOS KI PASEIS SOR MI POVR L' AMOVR DEIX PROIES POR MI. Which is old French, signifying You that pass over me for the love of God pray for me.

June 26.Spaw. we travelled hilly and stony way from Liege to the Spaw, seven hours distant. We had in prospect on the left hand as we rode, Franchimont Castle, and soon after came to the view of a deep Valley, in the bottom of which lay the Spaw. It is a pleasant little walled Town, though called a Village, indifferently well built for a place so re­mote from Commerce. The Inhabitants reap no small benefit from the frequency of Strangers, which in the Summer-time repair thither in great numbers to drink the Medicinal Waters. There is one Well called Pouhont, within the Town, in the Market-place, which tasts strong of Vitriol, the Virtues whereof are contained in this Distich written over it

The other Wells are at a good d [...]nce from the Town. (1.) Sauvenir, to the Eastward, about an hours walk remote, (2.) Geronster, as far to the Southward, and (3.) Tonnelet, about the mid-way between Pouhont and Sauvenir. These Waters seem­ed to me more brisk and sprightly, and better sated with Mineral Juices than any I have tasted in Eng­land, and doubtless are more nimble and vigorous in their Operations. But of their several Natures and Virtues Henricus ab Heers hath written a parti­cular Treatise, entitled Spadacrene, to which I re­fer the Reader that is desirous to know more of them. In the Woods and upon the Rocks near this Town we found many rare Plants, which we had [Page 61] not before met with, I mean spontaneously grow­ing in their natural places, viz. Asclepias flore albo, Polygonatum minus, Cyanus major, Rapunculus spicatus, Campanula persicifolia, Sideritis flore pallido similis Ladano segetum, &c.

June 28. From the Spaw we travelled to Aken, Lim­bourg. passing through Limbourg three hours distant, a Town considerable for its Strength, being situate on the side of a Hill, and encompassed with a strong Wall and Trench; not for its Bigness, it consisting only of one short broad Street, nor for its Beauty, the Buildings being all of Wood. The Garrison at our being there was about 300 Soldiers. Before we entred the Town we were met upon the way by some of these Soldiers, who very insolently stopt our Horses, demanding Money of us, which we were forced to give according to their discretion, before they would let us pass, which though it were no considerable Sum, yet was more than we were willing should be violently extorted from us. When we were past the Town, we met also with many of these Straglers, by whom (it was told us) many Rob­beries are committed hereabout.

Aken, Aken. called by the French Aix la Chappelle, to distinguish it, I suppose, from Aix in Provence, is a free City of the Empire, very considerable for its Strength and Greatness, being encompassed with a double Wall, and having in it 30 Churches. About now some 15 years ago here happened a lamentable Fire which almost ruined the Town, burning down to the ground 4500 Houses, from which Calamity it was not half recovered at the time of our being there. In the great Piazza or Market-place is a handsom Fountain, with this Inscription about the edges of the Basin: Hîc aquis per Granum Princi­pem quendam Romanum, Neronis & Agrippae fratrem inventis, calidorum fontium thermae à principio constru­ctae, postea verò per D. Carolum Magnum Imp. constituto [Page 62] ut locus hic sit caput & regni sedes trans Alpes, renovatae sunt: quibus thermis hîc gelidus fons influxit olint, quem nunc demum hoc aeneo vase illustravit S. P. Q. Aquisgranensis, Anno Domini 1620. The Iron Crown wherewith the Emperor is crown'd, and the Sword of Charlemaigne, which he holds when he is crown'd; and is obliged to wear by his side three days toge­ther, and wherewith he creates Noblemen; as also the Gospels, said to be written by the Evangelists own hands, are here kept, and every Coronation sent to Frankfurt. The Chair wherein the Empe­ror sits when he is crown'd here, hath its Sides of Ivory, and its Bottom as they fondly imagine of the Wood of Noah's Ark.

This City (according to the best information we could get there,) is governed by a Maior, two Con­suls or Burgomasters, fourteen Scabins and about 120 Senators or Counsellors. The Maior is Presi­dent of the Scabins and executes their Sentences; he is put in by the Duke of Gulick and continues du­ring Life, modò bene se gesserit. The Consuls are chosen by the Suffrage of the several Companies of the City, and continue two years modò bene se gesse­rint; every year there is one chosen. One that is no Senator may be chosen Consul or Burgomaster, and yet these have the chief power. The Scabins are Judges and continue during Life; when one of them dies, the rest chuse another in his place. The Senators are chosen by the several Companies, of which there are about fourteen or fifteen in this City. Every Company chuses eight. Half the Se­nate are yearly chosen. The Territory of this City is large, containing about 200 Villages, and is for the most part encompassed with Mountains. We saw here the manner of making Brass of Copper, by mingling and melting therewith Lapis Calami­naris, which changes the colour thereof from red to yellow, and increaseth the weight by thirty in [Page 63] the Hundred. But that for which this Place is most remarkable, and from which it took its Name, are the Hot Baths, of which there are several with­in the Walls and others without, at Borcet a great Village less than an English mile distant. The Waters of Borcet at the Sources where they issue out of the Earth are much hotter than those of the Bath in England, and the Springs more plenti­ful. The People there told us, and I can easily believe them, that they will serve to boil Eggs in. Their Tast seemed to us saltish. They are used outwardly for Bathing, and taken inwardly for many Diseases. As we walked to Borcet we could not but take notice of a Pool whose Wa­ters were almost tepid by reason of a little Stream from the Hot Baths running through it, wherein we were assured were bred and fed good store of Fish, which are put into cold Water for a moneth or two before they eat them. But of the Nature, Kinds, Ingredients and Uses of the several hot Wa­ters, as well those of the City, as of Borcet, the following abstract of an Epistolary Discourse con­cerning them written in French, and published by Francis Bloudel M. D. will give the Reader more particular Information.

[Page 72] From Aken, Altenho­ven. Gulick. June 29. we travelled through a small walled place called Altenhoven to Gulick, five hours distant. This is an elegant little Town, built of Brick, though the Houses be but low, having streight Streets and a square Piazza. It is well for­tified with a strong Wall and Trench, but most consi­derable for its Citadel, which for Greatness, Strength and Beauty gives place to few that we have seen. Within it is a stately Palace of the Princes, who for the Defence and Security of this City maintains here a Garrison of 1000 Soldiers. About ten or twelve years since this Place was possessed by the Spaniards. When the Peace was concluded between them and the Hollanders, it was agreed, that the Duke of Newbergh should have Gulick and Berg; and the Marquess of Brandenburgh Mark and Cleve. The main Trade and Employment of this Town is ma­king of Malt.

June 30. we proceeded on to Collen some seven hours distant from Gulick, by the way passing through a little walled Place called Berchem. Berchem. A great part of this days Journey was through plea­sant Woods. We observed by the way-side and in the Woods and Hedges as we went Mezereon Ger­manicum, Mollugo montana latifolia ramosa, Pul­monaria maculosa, Galeopsis sive Vrtica iners flore pur­purascente majore, folio non maculato, and among the Corn, Vaccaria Ger.

Collen, Collen. though it gives Title to an Archbishop who is one of the Electors, is a free City of the Empire, and one of the greatest in Germany. The middle part of it is well built of Stone, wherein are two fair and large Piazza's, the Skirts meaner and of Wood. The Walls of the City are of Stone, very tall, but not proportionably thick, and covered with a Tectum. Round the Walls without is a pleasant Walk of Trees, two deep Trenches, and at convenient Intervals strong Bulwarks. Within the [Page 73] Wall are enclosed 300 Acres of void ground (not built upon I mean) planted with Vines; of the Grapes whereof we were told many hundred Tuns of Wine are yearly made. In the Domo or Church of S. Peter are preserved in a golden Chest the Bodies (as they would have us believe) of the three Wise men of the East that came to worship our Saviour, commonly called the three Kings of Collen; Melchior, Gaspar and Balthasar. To this Church belong 54 Canons Nobles, and 8 Canons Presbyters. By these 62 with the Dean of the Cathedral, who hath two Votes in the Election, and the two Consuls regent of the City who have four, is the Archbishop cho­sen, who is not allowed to continue in the City at any time for above three days together. The Go­vernment of the City is by six Consuls or Burgo­masters, who continue in Office during life, yet but two only in power yearly; seven Scabins and 150 Senators. When a Burgomaster dies, the Se­nate chuses another into his Place. The Sena­tors are chosen by the several Companies of the City, and continue during life; only fifty are in power yearly; so the Power revolves to the same every third year. The Scabins are put in by the Prince, and continue during life. The main body of the Citizens is of the Roman Religion; yet are there a good number both of Lutherans and Refor­med or Calvinists. The Lutherans are allowed a Church within the Walls; the Reformed are forced to go cross the Water a mile out of town to Church. In one of the Churches of this Town are preserved the Bones of those 11000 Virgins which accompanied S. Vrsula to Rome, and in their return here suffered Martyrdom.

From Collen we went up the Rhene in a Boat drawn by Men, which brought us the first day to a small Village called Vidich. By the way we found grow­ing among the Corn in great plenty, Delphinium suaplici flore purpuro-caeruleo vulgare, and Nigella [Page 74] [...]rvensis: in some barren Grounds near the River' Stoechas citrina Germanica latiore folio J. B. Next mor­ning we passed Bonna, a pretty walled Town with a handsom Piazza. Here the Elector of Collen hath his Palace and usual Residence. This night we lodged at a pitiful poor walled Town called Brisaca, where we first began to have Feather-Beds laid upon us instead of Blankets and Coverlets.

July 6.Ander­nach. we passed by Rineck Castle on our right hand, and about a mile from Brisaca came to Ander­nach a walled Town of some note, subject to the Archbishop of Collen. Over against this Town is Hammerstein Castle belonging to the Archbishop of Triers. Then we passed by two Castles of the Earl of Weets, one on the right hand on a high Rock, well built, with a Cloister in it.

Two leagues from Andernach we passed by En­gers, and this night lodged at Coblentz, Coblentz a consider­able City belonging to the Archbishop of Triers, cal­led in Latin Confluentes, because situate at the Con­fluence of the Rivers Moselle and Rhene. Here is a fair Stone-Bridge of 13 Arches over the Moselle, which notwithstanding its diminutive Name, is no small River. Here is also a Bridge of Boats over the Rhene to a strong Castle called Hermanstein, situ­ate on a high Rock; under which near the River is a beautiful Palace of the Archbishop of Triers, whose Name is Carolus Caspar. Not far hence is Helfen­stein Castle, near which springs an acid Water. Another Well of this nature there is at Antonistein, three or four hours distant from Andernach, belong­ing to a Cloister of Carmelites, who sell the Water sealed up in Bottles; A third of greatest note at Zwolbach, four miles off Frankfurt. All these Wa­ters are sold to the Towns and Countrey about, and commonly drunk mixt with Wine, to which they give a pleasant tast and purging quality. I cannot say, as Blondel affirms of them, that upon [Page 75] mixture with Wine I saw them smoke, or found them actually hot: Indeed I was not careful to observe these particulars.

July 7. we passed by Lodesheim Town and Castle on the left hand, and Capelle, a Castle of the Bishop of Triers on the right, then a large Island in the middle of the Rhene; next Rens a small walled place belonging to the Archbishop of Collen, on the right hand and a little further Browbach and a Castle above it:Bopport. About four hours from Coblentz, Boppaert a walled Town of some note on the right hand, and not far thence a Castle called Bornholm on the left. We rested this night at a Village called Hertz­nach

July 8. in the morning we came to a pretty plea­sant wall'd Town called S. Gower, S. Gower. a mile distant from Hertznach, under the Lantgrave of Hessen, who lives in a fair Castle, built on a Rock above the Town. On one of the Towers of the Wall by the Rivers side is fastned a brass Ring, given by the Emperor Charles V. which is put upon Strangers Necks, and then they are obliged to drink Wine, else they are sprinkled with Water. The Magi­strates and greatest part of the Inhabitants of this Town are of the Reformed Religion, yet have both Lutherans and Papists their Churches. Just without the Walls over against S. Gower is a Town and Castle called Wellnich. Somewhat further on the right hand is Wesel Town and Castle of the Archbishop of Triers, Cub. and higher up on the left hand Cub, a considerable walled Town with a Castle upon a Rock, belonging to the Prince Elector Pala­tine. Here we observed a Flote of Timber going down the River, which was directed by many men who moved two long Oars at each end thereof, which served in stead of Rudders. In the Rocks hereabout is Slate gotten.Baccha­rach. Next we came to Bac­charach a wall'd Town on the right hand, having [Page 76] many Towers, subject to the Prince Elector Pala­tine, famous for the goodness of its Wine, as is also Rhincow, a Town not far from Mentz. At this and many other Towns between Collen and Mentz our Boatmen payed Toll. A little distance from hence we had in view a small walled Town on the left hand, and on the right we left a pitiful Village, yet walled about, called Heinbach, and came to a second of no better note, called Dreckhausen, where we lodged. Both these are under the Archbishop of Mentz. Over against Heinbach is Lewry a small walled Town of little account.

July 9.Mouse-Tower. we passed by Aspithouse Castle, then by Mouse-Tower, standing in a little Island, famous for the Story of the Bishop devoured by Mice and Rats. Over against this Tower stands a Castle, and a little further up the River on the right hand Bing, Bing. a handsom walled Town belonging to the Elector of Mentz: At some distance hence on the left hand Rodes, then Gison and Elveldt a wall'd Town, and lastly Wallop, where we observed Storks Nests upon the Chimnies. This night we arrived at Mentz.

From Collen to Widdich the River is of a great breadth, but above that till you come to Mouse-Tower, much narrower, being streightned by high Hills and Rocks on each side, The sides of these Hills are in some places covered with Wood, in some planted with Vines, and below the Vine-yards near the Ri­ver are large Orchards of Fruit-Trees. The Vines are tied to Stakes or Poles of about a mans highth, so that were not the Poles much shorter, their Vine­yards would nearly resemble our Hop-Gardens. All this way the River flows with so swift a Current, that I conceive it impossible to get up Stream with Oars and Sails.

In this Journey in the Corn-Fields, Meadows, Rocks, Woods and Sands by the Rivers side, &c. [Page 77] (which the slowness of our Boats progress gave us leisure to search) we observed many Plants which we had not elsewhere or but rarely before found growing wild,Plants ob­served as we travel­led be­tween Collen and Mentz. viz. Gentiana cruciata, Chamaedrys spuria angustifolia, Chondrilla juncea, Chamaedrys la­ciniatis foliis, Lychnis sylvestris calyculis striatis, Per­sicaria siliquosa, Genistella montana Germanica Park. Genistella aculeata, Buphthalmum vulgare, Fraxinella, Cardamine impatiens, Iberis, Millefolium nobile, Di­gitalis lutea magno flore, Eryngium arvense foliis serrae similibus, Caucalis albis floribus, Saxifraga Venetorum, Chondrilla caerulea, Tithymalus magnus multicaulis sive Esula major, Helleboraster maximus in great plenty, Tithymalus pineus and sundry others. Near the City of Mentz we found the Sea-gilly-flower or Thrift cal­led by C. Bauhine Caryophyllus montanus major flore globoso, Caryophyllus gramineo folio minimus, Caryo­phyllus arvensis umbelliferus, Cynoglossum minus, Thlaspi minus, aliis Alysson minus J. B. Thlaspi capsulis sub­longis incanum, Heliotropium majus, Camphoratae congener, Prunella flore majore & Prunella foliis dis­sectis.

Mentz is a large City and well fortified:Mentz. The Buildings generally old and but mean, the Streets narrow and not well paved, yet are there many great Houses of Noblemen scattered up and down. The Princes Palace is moted about. The present Prince or Archbishops Name is. Joannes Philippus à Schaen­born, he was besides Bishop of Wurtzburgh, and a few weeks since chosen also Bishop of Worms. The Canons of S. Martin's Church here, who are in number 24, all Barons or Noblemen, chuse the Archbishop out of their own number; and when any one of themselves dies or is removed, a Canon into his room out of the Domicillares. The Arms of the Archbishoprick is a Wheel, derived from the first Archbishop, who was a Wheelwrights Son, his Name Willigesus, a Saxon; He was wont to say, [Page 78] Willigese, Willigese, recogita unde veneris. Jews are allowed in this City. Here is a Bridge of Boats over the Rhene.

July 13. we took Boat for Frankfurt, going up the River Maonus which near Mentz runs into the Rhene. By the way we took notice (1.) of Ruse­theim, a handsom Fort on our right hand, belong­ing to the Lantgrave of Darmstadt. (2.) A little further up on our left hand a small Village called Etersheim, Hocht. and (3.) Hocht, a walled Town on the same hand, garrisoned by the Elector of Mentz. Here we may note, that the Dominions of the Prin­ces of Germany that border on the Rhene are strangely mingled one with another.

Frankfurt is about five Miles or Leagues distant from Mentz, Frank­furt. though the Houses thereof are for the most part built of Timber, yet is it fair, populous and rich, very strongly fortified and encompassed with a deep Trench of water; the Walls and Bull­warks are kept very trim and in good repair. The River Main divides it into two parts, the lesser on the South side is called Saxenhausen. They are joyned by a fair Stone-Bridge of about fourteen Arches. In the great Piazza are three handsom Fountains. The Emperor is now adays usually chosen here in the Curia or Senate-house; and crowned in the Colle­giate Church of S. Bartholomew. There have been about 25 or 26 Emperors here chosen. By the fa­vour of one of the Consuls or Burgomasters we saw the Original Imperial Grant or Constitution, where­by the College of Electors is appointed, called Bullae aurea. It had in place of the Seal a great Medal of Gold hanging at it, on which was stamped or en­graven, on one side the Figure of the Emperor Charles IV. with this Inscription round, Carolus quartus, divinâ favente clementiâ, Romanorum Impe­rator semp. Aug. On the reverse the Figure of the City Rome, and thereon written Aurea Roma, and [Page 79] round about this rhythming Verse, Roma caput mundi regit orbis fraena rotundi.

This City is governed by 42 Senators, two Bur­gomasters, a Praetor and 14 Scabins. The Sena­tors are divided into three Scamna or Benches: The highest is Scabinorum, the second or middle­most Literatorum, and the lowest Opificum. When one of the Scabins dies or is removed, they chuse into his room one out of the Scamnum Literatorum. Those of the Scamnum Opificum can rise no higher. These Senators chuse yearly the two Consuls or Burgomasters out of their own number. The People have no part or interest in the Government of the City or choice of the Senate. Many Jews live here who have their Ghet [...] or particular Quarter, where­in they are locked up every night. Their Trade is only Brokage, and most of them are very poor. They are forced to wear a piece of yellow Cloth somewhere about them to distinguish them from other people.

All the Magistrates and the greatest part of the Citizens are Lutherans, who have five Churches. The Roman Catbolics are allowed the free Exercise of their Religion, and have within the City two Cloisters of Men, and one of Women. The Re­formed had formerly a Church within the Walls, afterwards, that being taken from them, they had one just without, which being burnt down, whether by Accident or Malice, their Church is now a good distance from the Town. The English Church, used in Q. Maries days, goes to decay. The English House is made a Granary or Store-house. The Countrey hereabout is pleasant, and the Ground rich. We found growing wild Gramen amoris di­ctum & Ischaemon vulgare, Portulaca sylvestris, and in some Hedges Alsine baccifera, which it was not my fortune in all this Voyage to meet with any where else.

[Page 80] July 17. we left Frankfurt, taking the Post-Coach for Frankenthal. After one half-hours riding we entred into Pine-Woods, the first we met withal: They reach'd almost to our Lodging, this night, which was at a Village called Geirsheim three German miles from Frankfurt.

July 18.Kern­sheim. Worms. at a little walled Town called Kern­sheim we ferried over the Rhene, and at six miles end came to Worms, a great old City, but meanly built and in a decaying condition. It seems formerly to have been richer and more populous. The Bi­shop is chosen by the Canons of the great Church being 20 in number. All the Magistrates are Lu­therans. After we had passed Worms one hours riding brought us to Frankenthal or (as we usually pronounce it) Frankendale, Franken­dale. a Town belonging to the Prince Elector Palatine, situate in a Level by the Rhene, more considerable for its Strength than Greatness. The Houses are low built, the Streets broad and streight. The Wall, Mounts and Out­works neatly kept in good repair. The Garrison consists of five Companies, whereof two are Citi­zens. There are in it three Churches, one Almagne, one Low-Dutch, and one French.

July 20. we travelled from Frankendale beside the Rhene, through Oberskeim a small walled Town to Spier, Spier. two miles and an half distant. Spier though it hath a Bishop, yet is it a free City of the Empire, and governed by its own Magistrates, of considerable Strength and Greatness. The Houses are most old­built of Timber, rather vast than handsom or con­venient. We could not learn that there was any considerable Trade driven here, so that were it not for the Imperial Chamber (which draws much Com­pany hither) we believe it would soon grow poor and infrequent enough. The Romish Religion pre­vails most, yet have the Lutherans their Church. In the Cathedral Church are the Monuments of several [Page 81] Emperors and Bishops who lie interred there. The Imperial Chamber consists of 36 Assessors and a chief President appointed by the Emperor,Imperial Chamber. besides whom there are other three Presidents chosen by the Em­peror out of the Delegates. Every Elector of the Empire, and each of the ten Circles send two Dele­gates or Assessors. There is another Chamber of like power at Vienna. These Courts determine all Controversies arising between the several Princes and States of the Empire by majority of Vote. The Subjects also of many of the Princes may appeal from their own Princes to this Court; but it is not prudent nor safe for them so to do, unless they first withdraw themselves out of their Territory. Some Princes, as the Count Palatine, have Jus non appel­landi.

July 21. we returned a little backwards and cros­sed over the Rh [...]ne to Manheim, Man­heim. a Town belonging to the Prince Elector Palatine, situate just in the Angle made by the Neccar and Rhene meeting, and strongly fortified. The Houses in the late Wars were most of them beaten down, but now they are rebuild­ing them apace, the Prince having given the Town great Privileges, to invite Strangers to come and in­habit there. At the time of our being there, his Highness was building a new Citadel, which was like to prove a strong Piece. It wanted not much then of being finished. Who it was that first ad­vanced this place to the dignity of a City and for­tified it with Walls, Ditches and Bulwarks, this Inscription over the Gate towards the Neccar will acquaint the Reader. ‘Quod felix faxit Jehova,
Fredericus IIII. Elector
Palatinus Rheni, Dux Bavariae,
E veteri Paga Manhemio
Ad Rheni Ni [...]rique confluvium
[Page 82] Justa spatiorum dimensione
Nobilem Vrbem molitus,
Vallo, fossa, muro clausit,
Portam bonis civibus aperuit.
Anno Domini MDCX.
’

July 22. From Manheim we rode to Heidelberg, Heidel­berg. just before we entred the Town passing a wooden Bridge over the Neccar covered over with a tectum, as are also many of the great Bridges in Switzerland, to preserve the Timber, as I conceive, from the injuri [...]s of the Weather. Heidelberg, though none of the greatest Cities, yet is the chief of the Pala­tinate, and for its bigness populous; which is much considering the Devastations made by the late Wars in this Countrey. The Houses are most of Timber, yet handsom and in good repair; which argues the Inhabitants to be industrious and in a thriving con­dition. It is situate on the right bank of the River Neccar, under Hills of considerable highth; by rea­son of which it cannot be made strong, though it be encompassed with a double Wall and Trench.

In this City are five Jurisdictions, (1.) Aulica, under which are all the Princes or Noblemen: of this Jurisdiction the Marshal of the House is Presi­dent. (2.) Cancellaria, under which are all the Councils and other Officers as Advocates, Doctors of Law, &c. (3.) Bellica, or the Soldiery: the General is their President. (4.) Academica, in which the Rector magnificus presides, and (5.) Civica. The Members of each Jurisdiction may refuse to be judged by any but their own Judge, before whom the Plaintiff must implead them, according to the Maxim in Law, Actor sequitur forum rei. The City is divided into four Quarters, and governed by Praetor and Burgomasters. It can raise two Compa­nies of Foot and one of Horse. The Lutherans are [Page 83] permitted the Exercise of their Religion here, and have lately built them a Church: There are also Roman Catholics who have a Church without the Walls.

About the middle of the ascent of the Hill called Koningsthall stands the Castle where the Prince keeps his Court, a stately Pile and of great capacity, en­compassed with a strong Wall and a deep Trench hewn out of the Rock, which upon occasion may be filled with Water. Over the Gate leading into the Palace is a Dutch Inscription, signifying the building of it by Ludovicus V. in the year 1519. It is not all of one Piece, but since the first Founda­tion several Buildings have been added by seve­ral Princes. One part is called the English Buil­ding.

Under one of the Towers stood the great Tun, which almost filled a Room. It held 132 Fudders, a Fudder (as we were informed) being equal to 4 Eng­lish Hogsheads. The old Tun is taken in pieces, and there is a new one in building by the Princes Order, which is to contain 150 Fudders or 600 Hogsheads. Being invited by the Princes order we dined in the Palace, where we observed all things carried with little noise and great decency. After dinner his Highness was pleased to call us into his Closet, and shew us many Curiosities, among others (1.) a Purse made of Alumen plumosum, which we saw put into a Pan of burning Charcoal till it was throughly ignite, and yet when taken out and cool, we could not perceive that it had received any harm at all from the Fire. (2.) Two Unicorns horns each eight or ten foot long, wreathed and hollow to the top. By the way we may note, that these are the Horns of a Fish of the cetaceous kind, (two distinct species whereof you may find de­scribed and figured in the History and Description of the Antilles or Caribee Islands written in French by R. F. of Tertre, and the Head of one in Wormius his [Page 84] Musaeum) not the Horns of a Quadruped as is vul­garly but erroneously thought. Whatever the An­tients have delivered, modern Voiages and Enquiries have discovered no other terrestrial Unicorn besides the Rhinocerot, which, its most likely, is signified by the word [...] used in Scripture, which the Sep­tuagint render [...]. (3.) The Imperial Crown and Globe of Rupertus Imp. who was of this Family, richly adorned with pretious Stones. (4.) An ex­cellent and well-digested Collection of antient and modern Coins and Medals of all sorts, in which the Prince himself is very knowing. Among the rest we could not but take notice of a Swedish Doller of Copper, about the bigness and of the figure of a square Trencher, stamped at the four Corners with the Kings Image and Arms, of that weight, that if a man be to receive ten or twenty pound in such Coin, he must come with a Cart and Team of Horse, to carry it home. The Prince Palatines Name and Titles are Carolus Ludovicus, Comes Palatinus Rheni, sacri Romani Imperii Elector, utrius (que) Bavariae Dux. He speaks six Languages perfectly well, viz. High-Dutch, Low-Dutch, English, French, Italian and Latine, is greatly beloved of his Subjects of whom he hath a paternal Care, and whose Interest he makes his own.

In the great Church where the famous Library was kept, we observed many fair Monuments of Princes of this Family, some with Dutch, most with Latine Epitaphs or Inscriptions: Others in the Fran­ciscans Church. In S. Peter's Church also a great number of Monuments of learned men of the Uni­versity; which is of good account and one of the best in Germany. Three or four Colleges there are built and endowed chieflly for the maintenance and accom­modation of poor Students.

The Government of this University is by a Senate, which consists only of 16 Professors. The number [Page 85] of Professors is limited, and their Stipends fixt by the Statutes of the University given them by their Founder Rupertus Count Palatine Anno 1346. and confirmed by the Pope and Emperor. Of these Pro­fessors three are of Divinity; four of Law; three of Medicine, and six of Philosophy. Of the Philosophy Professors four only are admitted into the Senate, lest they should make too great a party. Besides the Senate chuses anew the Philosophy Professors every year, and may change them if they please: the other Professors are chosen for term of life. When one dies the Senate chuses two and presents them to the Prince, of which he takes one to succeed in the va­cant place. This Senate chuses every year a Rector ma­gnificentissimus, which is only an Honorary Title con­ferred upon some Prince or great person, for he hath no power at all in the University. (2.) A Rector ma­gnifl [...]us out of their own number by major Vote, the chief Officer for power and answerable to our Vice-chancellour. (3.) An Aedilis who takes care of the public Buildings. (4.) A Praefectus rei vinariae. (5.) A Praefectus rei frumentariae, which Officers answer to our Taxers. (6.) A Quaestor, who gathers up the University Revenue and Rents. Further this Senate is a Jurisdiction by themselves, and have absolute power in criminal Causes extending to Life and Death: only after Sentence given the Prince may pardon. The Degrees conferred here are in Philo­sophy Masters, of which lately there have been but few created; in Law and Medicine Licentiates and Doctors; in Divinity Batchelors, Licentiates and Do­ctors, of which last there have been but few lately. They confer Degrees without any regard of Stand­ing. The Candidate must undergo a double Exa­men. (1.) By the Faculty wherein he is to commence, the Rector magnificus being present, and if he be found unsufficient he is remitted, and appointed a certain time to study to prepare himself. (2.) By all the [Page 86] Professors together, the Rector magnificus being also present. The first they call Examen tentatorium, the second rigorosum. Having past both Examens he is to dispute publicly s [...]b Praeside, then to make a Le­cture in the Faculty wherein he is promoted, and lastly a Speech. The Speech ended, he asks the Vice-chancellour, ut det facultatem promotori ipsum promo­vendi. Note that by the Statute the Praepositus Eccle­siae Wormatiensis is perpetual Chancellour, and sub­stitutes a Vice-chancellour in his place. But now this is only done pro forma, for the University is not obnoxious to the Chancellour. The Vice-chancellour granting leave, the Promoter, who is usually the Note, that the Profess [...]rs in each Faculty take the Deanship by turns, though the Senate may ap­point any other. Dean of the Faculty, in the name of the Prince Elector, and by the leave of the Vice-chancellour, pronounces such an one Doctor, and bids him ascend in superiorem cathedram, then kisses him, puts a Ring on his Finger, and a Cap on his Head, and gives him a Book first shut and then open. Then the Graduate takes an Oath touching with his Fin­ger the two Beadles Staves set leaning one against the other, and last of all feasts the Professors in the room called the Prytancum, which is now used as the Divinity-Schools: At which Feast the Prince him­self is present or sends the Marshal of his House. To save Charges two or three Candidates, if they be of meaner condition, get to be promoted toge­ther.

The Prince Elector is absolute in his own Terri­tory. He can make Laws and repeal them, treat with forein Princes, sending Embassadors to them, and receiving Embassadors from them, make War and Peace, impose Tributes arbitrarily on his Sub­jects without the consent of the States of the Coun­trey. The Emperor hath nothing to do with his Subjects, they swearing Allegiance only to him. He only can excommunicate, having reserved to himself the Episcopal Power. The Prince Elector hath seven Councils or Courts, (1.) Concilium Au­gustum or his Privy Council. (2.) Concilium Statûs. (3.) Concilium Ecclesiasticum, consisting of four, where­of two are Lay men, and two Clergy. (4.) Dica­sterium, who judge Causes between man and man. (5.) Concilium feudale. (6.) Concilium redituum temporalium or rationum. (7.) Concilium redituum [Page 92] Ecclesiasticorum. The Prince hath thought fit to keep these two last distinct, partly that he may know how to proportion the Ministers Allowance; and partly that if any of his Successors should happen to change his Religion (as is ordinary for Princes to do in Ger­many) they may be able to distinguish clearly be­tween their own proper Temporal and the Church Revenue.

The Prince in his own Territory is general Bishop and supreme Head in Ecclesiastical Affairs. Formerly this Countrey was under the Inspection and Juris­diction of the Bishop of Spier, but since the Refor­mation, the Prince hath not only seized the Reve­nues of the Church into his own hand, but also as­sumed to himself entirely the Episcopal Power and Jurisdiction. He also is universal Patron, and dis­poses of all vacant Benefices as he pleases; indeed the Council of four nominate and present two unto him, of which usually he chuses one, because it may well be presumed that he knows not so well as they what persons are best qualified and fit to be preferred; but he is not obliged to confer the Benefice upon ei­ther of the persons by them so nominated, but may either put in another known to himself, or com­mand them to nominate others, if he like not those presented. The Religion of the Countrey is the Reformed. The whole Palatinate is divided into three Praefècturae, and some, viz. the greater of these subdivided into less. Every Praefectura hath its In­spector or Bishop, who is Pastor of some Church in that Praefectura: He differs not from any other in any Jurisdiction, but in that commonly he hath a larger Stipend. His business is only to give Infor­mation, if he be of a lesser Division, to the Inspector of the whole Praefectura under which he is, if of a greater, to the Council of foar. If need be every Praefectura or great Town hath a Presbytery. The Presbytery of Heidelberg consists of the five Ministers [Page 93] of the City, two Deputies from each Jurisdiction except the Aulica: and two from each Quarter of the City; so that at this time the number in all is 21. These all have equal Suffrages the Lay-men with the Ministers, only one of the Ministers always presides in his Course. This Presbytery assembles once every week, at whose meeting is always pre­sent a Delegate from the Prince, to see that nothing be agitated there which it concerns not the Presby­tery to meddle withal. This Presbytery hath no power to excommunicate or inflict any Church Cen­sure; but if any person be accused to them of any Crime, they send him to the Jurisdiction to whom he appertains, to enquire into his Offence. The Court having received this Information from the Presbytery, either neglect it if they please, or if they see cause enquire into it, and punish the Delinquent according to his Demerit, and in the close of the Sentence or Warrant for execution add this Clause, Quod ad Scandalum Ecclesiae datum remittimus te ad Presbyterium. Now at last, all they can do, is to exact of him a public Confession before the Church, and a promise of Amendment for the future. As for Ordination, it is given by the Council of four by Imposition of Hands, after examination of the per­son to be ordained, and Testimonials exhibited from the University or other Persons of known Credit. The Prince receives all Tithes, except such as in some places for conveniencies sake are paid imme­diately to the Ministers; and other Church-Reve­nues, most whereof is paid out again in Stipends to the Ministers, which the Prince proportions accor­dieg to their Merit and his own Discretion; the rest is reserved for Emergencies.

July 25. we hired a Coach for Strasburgh, which brought us thither in three days. At three miles di­stance from Heidelberg we passed in sight of Philips­burg, Philips­burg. a well fortified place situate in a level near the [Page 94] Rhene: now possessed by the French. The Castle or Palace yielded a goodly Prospect. A mile further we passed through Graffe a small Town with a Ca­stle belonging to the Markgrave of Tourlach, where our Coachman paid Toll. We lodged this first night at a Village called Linknom under the same Lord, who is a Lutheran.

July 26. at four miles end we baited at a large Village called Raspach; and two miles on further we passed through Stolchoven a little walled Town,Stolcho­ven. where our Coachman paid another Toll; and after one mile more another walled Town called Lichte­naw, Lichte­naw. both under the Marquess of Baden. This se­cond night we took up our quarters at Sertz, a Vil­lage under the Earl of Ha [...]aw.

July 27. we passed over the Rhene divided into two Branches or Streams by two great Wooden-Bridges, which instead of Boards are floored with whole Fir-Trees laid loose across, neither pinned nor nailed down: I conceive that the Bridge might upon any exigent be more suddenly thrown down and broken. Soon after we were past the Bridges we entred Strasburgh. In this Journey we observed great plenty of Maiz or Indian Wheat planted, in some places Lathyrus sativus, and in others Cartha­mus or bastard Saffron sown in the fields: Grow­ing wild besides what we had before observed in other places, Blattaria, Solidago Saracenica, and in the Meadows near Strasburgh, Carduus. Pratensis Tragi.

Strasburgh is a free City of the Empire,Stras­burgh. large, well built, rich and populous, encompassed with a double Wall and Trench full of Water, besides the advantage of a good situation in a large Level, very exactly fortified, and the Walls and Works most regular, elegant, and scrupulously kept in repair: so that it seems no easie thing by force to take this City; neither was it I think once attempted [Page 95] in the late German Wars. It lies as a Block in the Frenchmens way, and is as it were the Rampart of the Empire in these parts. The Government is by a greater Council of 300, chosen by the several Com­panies of Citizens, and a lesser of 71, of which num­ber six are Burgomasters, six Stetmasters, 15 Patres Patriae and 13 of the Militia. The Women of this City are well-favoured and of good Complexions. The Inhabitants are most part Lutherans, who have seven Churches: some Papists, who have one Church and four Cloisters, two for Men and two for Women; and a few Reformed, who yet are not allowed a Church in Town, but forced to go some two miles to Church in the Territory of the Earl of Hanaw. This City is an Episcopal See, the Bishop whereof is Lord of the lower Alsatia. He hath a Palace in the City, but is not suffered to lodge therein above three days together; in an Inn he is allowed eight days at a time. Here is the fairest, largest, best furnished, and handsomeliest kept Armory or Arse­nal that we saw in Germany, or in all these respects any where else. Here are also public Granaries, Wine-Cellars and Store-houses. The River Elle runs through the Town. The Domo or Cathedral Church is a fair Building of Stone, having a great pair of Brass Folding-Doors at the West end. Herein we viewed the famous Clock described by Coryat and others, a Piece of excellent Workmanship, made, as were told by one Isaac Habrechtus of Strasburgh. The Steeple of this Church is curiously built of carved Stone, and incomparably the highest that ever we yet saw. The number of Steps from the bottom to the top is 662. We ascended 640 Steps to the place called the Crown, from whence we had a wide Prospect of the Countrey round about. In this Steeple two men watch constantly by day and four by night.Sowre­bourn. Ten hours distant from Strasburgh towards Stutgard is Sowrebourn, from whence acid [Page 96] Water is brought hither, which they mingle with their Wine and drink as at other places. By the In­habitants of this and other Imperial Cities, especially the Women, are many different sorts of Habits used.

July 31. we left Strasburgh and began our Jour­ney towards Basil, travelling as far as Tivelsheim a Village under the Bishop of Strasburgh, some two miles and half▪ August 1. after three miles riding forward we passed through a small walled Town be­longing to the same Bishop called Marklesheim. Two miles further we rode in sight of Brisach, Brisach. a Town seated on a Rock by the Rhene side, a place of great Strength and Importance, much contended for in the late Wars. It is now in the French hands, as is all Alsatia almost to the Walls of Basil: and after two other miles we came to a Village called Lode­sheim pleasantly situate in a large Plain where we lodged.

Aug. 2. we rode but one league and an half ere we arrived at Basil. Basil. This City is large and fair, the Houses being for the most part built of Stone, tall and painted on the out side. It is compassed about with a double Wall and Trench, rich and po­pulous, built upon Hills, so that which way soever you go you either ascend or descend. The River Rhene divides it into two parts, which are joined together by a Bridge of 14 Arches. That part on the North side of the River is called Little Basil. There are said to be 300 Fountains in this City, scarce a Street or House of note but hath one. It is one of the thirteen Cantons of Switzerland, and hath in its Territory about 100 Villages. It gives Title to a Bishop chosen by Canons, who yet is not suffered to lodge in the Town one night. He lives at Broudint, keeps the State of a Temporal Prince, and coins Money, which is not current in Basil.

[Page 97] As to the Civil Government, the Citizens are di­vided into 15 Tribes or Companies. Each Compa­ny chuses 12 men by major Vote, who are called Sexers, because six of them only are regent at once, viz. one six one year, and the other six the next, and so alternately. These twelve Viri or Sexers chuse out of each Tribe two Tfunff-Masters or Tri­buni Plebis for their Lives. The Tribuni Plebis chuse two out of each Tribe who are called Senators. Of these 60 and the four Heads (two whereof are called Burgomasters and chosen by the Senators properly so called, and two Tribuni Plebis or Tfunft-meisters and chosen by the Tribuni Plebis) the lesser Council consists. Both Burgomasters and Tfunft-meisters, Tribunes and Senators rule alternately. The old Senators, or that half of the lesser Council which was in power the precedent year, do first debate and agree upon any business of moment before it be pro­pounded to the new Senate; who afterwards con­firm or reject as they please. The Great Council (which is assembled by the ordinary Council upon weighty occasions) consists of all the Magistrates, viz. The 12 Viri and all the lesser or ordinary Council. The lesser Council Judges in criminal Causes.

In this City is an University founded by Pope Pius the Second. The University-Senate consists of the seventeen Professors. The Names of the pre­sent Professors in each Faculty, now Anno 1663. are,

• Johannes Buxtorfius Professor Veteris Testamenti & Linguae Hebraicae.
• Joh. Rudolphus Wetstenius Professor N. Testamenti.
• Lucas Kamlerus primarius Pastor & Prof. Controver­siarum.

• [Page 98]Remigius Fechsius Pandectarum Prof. He has col­lected many Rarities.
• Lucas Burchardus Cod. Prof. magnificus Rector. Jacobus Brandmullerus Institut. Prof.

• Emmanuel Stupanus Med. Theor. Prof.
• Joh. C. Bauhinus pater, Praxeos Prof.
• Hieronymus Bauhinus F. Anatomes & Botanices Prof. Of these two the Father is the Son, and the Son consequently the Grand-child of that famous Herbarist and Anatomist Caspar Bauhinus.

• Christophorus Fee [...]sius, frater Remigii, Histor. Prof.
• Rheinhardus Iselius Ethic. Prof.
• Rudolphus Burchardus, cognatus Lucae, Mathem. Prof.
• Mr. Henricus Keselbachius, Phys. Prof.
• Fridericus Burchardus, Henrici patruus, Orat. & Eloq. Prof.
• Samuel Burchardus, Logicae Prof. cognatus cate­rorum.
• Simon Bathienus, Rhet. Prof.
• Joh. Zuingerus, Gr. Linguae Prof.

The Professors are to read every day in the week in Term-time, except Thursdays and Sun­days, their Stipends are small and not a competent maintenance.

Here are no Doctors in Divinity created beside the Professors, and some the condition of whose places require that Degree. In Law they confer two [Page 99] Degrees, Doctor and Licentiate; in Medicine only Do­ctor; in Philosophy, Master and Batchelour. The Ecclesiastical Government is by the three Professors of the first Faculty, the four Scholarchae and all the Ministers. When a Benefice happens to be vacant, the Senate nominates three to it, out of which the Ministers chuse one. The City-Ministers have a certain Stipend in Money; in the Countrey-Villa­ges the Ministers have part of their Allowance in Tithes, and part in Money. No Minister before or after Imposition of hands is obliged by Oath or Promise to continue his Profession so long as he lives, but may leave his Ministry when he pleases, and betake himself to some other Calling. This and all other the Protestant Cantons of Switzerland are of the Reformed Religion.

In this City Erasmus Rot. Erasmus. lived the latter part of his time, and here he died and lies buried in the great Church, where there is a fair Marble Monu­ment erected to his Memory, against a Pillar on the North side of the Communion-Table. He founded and endowed a College in Basil, wherein are main­tained 20 persons, eighteen whereof are to be Stu­dents in Divinity, who may live there as long as they please, provided they follow their Studies and continue unmarried: only the Magistrates have a power to command them thence to another kind of life. Of the other two one is a Bedel, and the other a School-master. Over this College there is a Regent, without whose leave no Student may lodge out of the House one night. Ten of the Stu­dents are to be Basileans and ten Strangers. At the great Church is preserved Erasmus his Library, cal­led Bibliotheca Amberbachiana, Bibliothe­ca Amber­bachiana. because Erasmus be­queathed it [...]o Amberbachius, by his last Will and Testament, which we saw written with his own hand in half a Sheet of Paper, Dated the 12. of Fe­bruary, 1536. In this Library are preserved many [Page 100] good Pieces and Designs of Holbenius a famous Painter born in Basil: A Box full of Diplomata, gi­ven to Erasmus by the Pope, Emperor and several Kings and Princes of Europe. Erasmus his Seal and Ring: A fair Gold Medal sent to Erasmus by the King of Poland: Many antient and modern Coins and Medals: Three Rappers (i. e. small Pieces of Money of a mixt Metal not so big as a Silver Penny of the value of a Farthing) turned into Gold by Leon. Turnitius a famous Alchymist of this place, who turned the Nail at Florence: Several antient Entaglie: Many Papers of Amberbachius, concerning the Antiquities of Augusta Rauracorum, formerly a great City, now a Village called Augst, not far di­stant from Basil. The great Church or Cathedral at Basil was built by the Emperor Henry II. who married Cunigunda the Daughter of an English King. S. Pantalus an English man was the first Bishop here. The graver sort of Citizens and Magistrates wear Ruffs and Steeple-Caps. The Professors and Mini­sters wear the same Caps and Ruffs, and besides short Gowns, which reach little lower than their Knees. Many of the Countrey-Boors wear Straw-Hats. The Women wear their Coats very short, and some of them little round Caps on their Heads, very like the young Scholars Caps in Cambridge, but less; and a Tin-Girdle about their Wasts. We saw in this City Dr. Fel. Platerus his Musaeum or Cabinet, wherein there is a good Collection of Minerals, Stones, Me­tals, dried Fishes, and other natural and artificial Rarities, gathered by Tho. Platerus the Father, and Fel. Platerus the Son, and disposed in a good Me­thod, the Names being set to each one. Here and at Zurich are Sermons every day in the week at seve­ral Churches.

David George that monstrous Fanatic died in this City, at whose Death there happened a great Tem­pest of Thunder and Lightning, and a Thunder-bolt brake into his House.

[Page 101] About Basil we found growing wild beside what we had before met withal, Scrophularia Ruta canina dicta, Passerina Tragi among the Corn. Phalangium parvo flore ramosius, Blitum minus album J. B. in fime­tis. Cymbalaria Italica hederacea, in muris urbis ad portam quae Argentinam ducit. Stoebe major calyculis non splendentibus, in marginibus agrorum & muris passim toto itinere à Frankendaliâ ad Basileam usque. Polium montanum Lavendulae folio, Consolida media Genevensis J. B. & Cneorum Matthioli seu Thymelaea minor Cordi. But if any one desires a more parti­cular account of what Plants grow wild about Basil, C. Ba [...]thinus his Catalogus Plantarum circa Basileam nascentium will give him full satisfaction.

August 10. from Basil we set forward for Zurich. At the end of one Dutch mile we passed Augst, sup­posed to have been Augusta Rauracorum. There we view'd the Ruines of an antient Building, judged by Amberbachius to have been an Amphitheater. Next we rode fast by a wall'd Town on the Rhene subject to the Archduke of Inspruck. On the Hills here­about we first saw Fir-trees growing wild. Then we passed through Bruck a pretty little walled Town having one handsom Street well built with tall Houses of Stone, and Fountains in the middle, and lodged at the Baths of Baden six miles distant from Basil. This day we first took notice of the little green Tree-Frogs. The Baths here are said to be sixty in number, but small; the Water is very hot. Baden is a walled Town, seated on the side of a Hill by the River Limagus, about half an English mile distant from the Baths. Here the Delegates of the thirteen Cantons meet and sit. The poor People put a Cheat upon Strangers, bringing them to sell (as they pretend) fossile Dice, which they say, they dig out of the Earth naturally so figured and marked. But I am well assured, such as they brought us were artificial Dice, and if they dig'd them out [Page 102] of the Earth, they first buried them there them­selves. From Baden, Aug. 11. we rode along by the Limagus on one hand, and fair Vineyards on the other to Zurich.

Zurich is pleasantly situate at the end of a Lake call'd Zurich-Sea,Zurich. scarce so big as Basil, but I think more populous. The River Limagus which runs out of the Lake divides it into two almost equal parts, which are joined together by two Bridges; one very broad for Carts and Horses to pass over.

The Houses are built of Timber with Clay-Walls, handsomly painted, many of them four or five Sto­ries high. The Streets are narrow but well paved with Flints and great Pebbles. This City is as well fortified as the Situation of it will permit, besides the Wall, being encompassed round with good Earthworks and Trenches after the modern fashion. The River Sele runs by and gives defence to it on the South side, and a little lower empties itself into the Limagus. The Citizens are given to Merchan­dise, all very busie and industrious. They either are rich or at least so esteemed, and therefore envied by their Neighbours of the Romish Religion. Here are no Guards of Soldiers at the City-Gates; no Strangers examined or searcht either at coming in or going out. We observed the colour of the Wa­ter of the Zurich-Sea to be greenish and well ap­proaching to that of Sea-water. Afterwards we found the Water of all the Lakes and Rivers near the Alpes to be of the same colour, at which we were not a little surprised. For we were wont to attribute that colour in the Sea-water to the mixture of Salt that is in it, whereas the Water of these Lakes and Rivers discovers to the Tast nothing of Salt or brackish. But afterwards considering that these Wa­ters did consist for the most part of Snow dissolved; and that Snow is supposed to contein good store of nitrous Salt, we thought it not altogether impro­bable [Page 103] that this Colour may be owing to the nitrous Particles remaining in the Water, though they be not copious enough to affect our Tast; and it would be worth the while to distil good quantities of this Water, to see whether it would leave any Salt be­hind.

That these Lakes and Rivers do consist for the most part of Snow-water it is manifest, for that upon the Mountains (excepting the lower parts of them) no Rain falls in Winter-time, but only Snow, with which the higher parts of them are covered to a great thickness for at least six moneths in the year; and for that the Rivers that flow from the Alpes run lowest in Winter, and abound most with Water in the Summer-time; so that sometimes they over­flow their Banks in the hottest moneths of the year, and when no Rain falls▪ as my self can testifie con­cerning the River Rhodanus; because the Sun at the season melts the Snow upon the Mountains. Hence it appears, that their Opinion was not so absurd who attributed the yearly Increase and Overflowing of the River Nilus to the dissolution of the Snow upon those Mountains where it hath its first Rise. Though I do not think this to be the true Cause, partly because that part of the Earth where those Mountains lie is so hot by reason of its Situation under the direct and sometimes perpendicular Beams of the Sun, that it's not likely any Snow should fall, much less lie there: chiefly because Travellers gene­rally agree, that in most parts of that Climate where those Mountains lie, there are at that time of the year great falls of Rain, to which therefore the Overflowing of Nilus is more probably attributed.

The Government of this City is by a greater and a lesser Council. The lesser Council consists of 50, viz. 24 Tribunes or Masters of the Companies chosen by the twelve Tribes or Companies, into which the City is divided, two by each Company. [Page 104] These 24 are called Zwelvers because twelve of them only are regent at once. Twelve Senators, chosen out of the Companies, one out of each Company by the greater Council according to our Informa­tion, according to Simler by the lesser. Six, elected by the same greater Council as we were informed, but according to Simler by the lesser, out of the People indifferently where they please; four Tribuni nobilium chosen by the Gentlemen; two Senatores nobilium; and two Burgomasters or Consuls chosen by the Council of 200. The Consuls and half this Council rule by turns, viz. 12 Zwelvers and 12 Se­nators with one Consul one half year and the other half the next; and this half that rules is called Con­cilium novum. All the 50 meet every week, and if any Decree be to be made, it is dated in the presence of the Concilium novum & vetus. All the 50 hear Civil Causes, Simler saith eight chosen by the 50; and the Concilium novum judge in Criminals alone. The greater Council consists of 200, viz. 144 elected out of the Tribes, twelve out of each Tribe; 18 cho­sen by the Noblemen among themselves; 24 Zwel­vers; 4 Tribuni nobilium; 2 Senatores nobilium; the 6 elected indifferently, and the two Burgomasters. Why the twelve chosen by the greater Council should be left out, we know not, and therefore suspect our Information was not good about the making up the great Council; but of the 12 out of each Tribe, and 18 out of the Noblemen we are sure. This great Coun­cil chuses Land [...]voghts, and assembles upon impor­tant occasions that concern the whole Common­wealth. They elect four Stadthalters or Proconsuls out of the 24 Masters of the Companies; two Sekelmasters or Treasurers either out of the twelve Senators of the Companies or the twelve Tribunes of the Concilium novum. Half the lesser Council is chosen every half year at Christmas and Midsummer. The Concilium vetus goes out, and then the Concilium [Page 105] novum becomes vetus, and chuses a new Concilium novum, but for the most part the same are chosen again.

Aug. 12. from Zurich we travelled to Schaffhaussen, Schauff­haussen. passing by a great Cascate or Catarract of the River Rhene called Wasserfall; near to which we first ob­served Orobus sylvaticus purpureus vernus and Hepatica nobilis growing wild. This Journey we also found Vlmaria major sive Barba capri by a little Bridge not far from Schaffhaussen.

Schaffhaussen is seated upon the River Rhene, over which there is here a Bridge, part of Wood and part of Stone. All Boats or Flotes that come down the River must here unload, there being no passing further by reason of great Stones in the Chanel, and the precipitious Descent of the water at Wasserfall. This Town is well-built, (the Houses being most of Stone) walled about and intrencht. It hath two fair Streets handsomly paved, besides many other small ones. Here as at Zurich, the Citizens when they walk abroad wear their Swords. As to the Civil Government, the Citizens are divided into twelve Tribes or Companies. Each Tribe chuses two Tribuni Plebis, and these 24 make the lesser or ordinary Council. The great Council consists of these and sixty more, chosen also by the Companies, each Company chusing five. The Father and Son, or two Brothers cannot be together of the Council. By the greater Council are chosen yearly two Con­suls or Burgomasters, two Quaestors, one Proconsul, and one Aedilis, but for the most part they chuse the same. All Causes Civil and Criminal are tried be­fore the lesser Council. Every one of the twenty four hath 52 Florens and [...] modii frumenti allowed him yearly.

Aug. 13. we rode to Constance. Constance By the way we found Horminum luteum glutinosum sive Colus Jovis, and in a Wood upon a Mountain Pyrolafolio mucro­nato [Page 106] serrato, Pseudoasphodelus Alpinus, Anonymus flore Coluteae, & Sonchus caeruleus latifolius. Constance is an Imperial City pleasantly situate in a fair Level by the Rhene side,Bodenzee and at the end of the Bodenzee or Lake of Constance, called antiently Lacus Brigantinus and Lacus Acronius. There is a long Bridge over the River or Lake, made part of Wood and part of Stone. The Streets of the City are fair, and the Buildings of Stone. The Council that was held here Anno Dom. 1417. at which John Hus was con­demned hath made this place well known. For what end this Council was assembled and what they did, the following Inscription on the Council-house will acquaint the Reader: ‘Gaude clara Domus, pacem populo generâsti
Christicolae, dum Pontifices tres Sohismate vexant;
Tunc omnes abigit Synodus quam tu tenuisti.
Ipse sedem scandit Martinus nomine quintus
Dam quadringentos numerant post mille Salutis
Festo Martini decem & septem simul annos.
’

This Town is also famous for the Resistance it made to the Suedish Forces commanded by Horn, besieging of it Anno 1598. vid. Galeazzo.

Yet it seemed to me but slenderly fortified, having toward the Water only a Wall, and toward the Land an earthen Rampart or Wall and Ditch drawn at a good distance from the Stone-Wall. It hath indeed advantage by its Situation, having a Lake on one side and a fenny Level on the other.

Aug. 15. we took Boat, and crossed the Bodenzee from Constance over to Lindaw, Lindaw. and by the way had a fair Prospect of the strong Town of Oberlingen. Lindaw standeth in the middle of the Lake envi­ron'd with Water. It is joined to the Land by a Bridge of 290 paces, one half of it being Stone, and the other (that is that next the Town) Wood, [Page 107] which may upon occasion easily be taken down and removed. This City besides its natural Strength by reason of its Situation, is also artificially fortified with stout Walls and Bulwarks standing in the Wa­ter, that side most which is nearest the Land. On that side toward the Lake are many Rows of great Stakes driven into the ground, to hinder the ap­proach of any Boat or Vessel to the Town. So that a man would think this place impregnable. The Streets and Houses are not so spatious and fair as those of Constance, yet proper enough: Several Fountains also there are in the Streets. Towards the Bodenzee are two Walls, and between the Walls a large vacant space of Land wherein Vineyards are planted, of the Grapes whereof are said to be made yearly 100 Fudders, that is 300 English Hogsheads of Wine. Eight Villages belong to this City, their Territory extending about three hours.

For Plants we found not far from Lindaw in the mountainous Woods, Erica procumbens herbacea, Scahiosa latifolia rubro flore, Gentiana Asclepiadis fo­lio, and in the moister places Vlmaria major sive Barba capri, & Lactuca montana purpuro-caerulea major C. B. In the moist Meadows Pneumonanthe plentifully. On the Banks of a small River running into the Bo­denzee near Lindaw, Myrica sylv. altera Clus. In the moist and fenny places near the Lake both here and at Constance, Gratiola vulgaris plentifully.

Aug. 17. we rode Post from Constance toward Munchen in Bavaria. The several Stages where we changed Horses were (1.) Wangen a small Imperial Town,Wangen. two miles distant from Lindaw. (2.) Laykirk, Laykirk. another small Imperial Town, two miles further on. (3.) Memmingen, Memmin­gen. a free City of the Empire, and one of the chiefest of Suevia both for Greatness and Strength. The Streets are broad, Water running through them. (4.) Mundelheim a small Town under the Duke of Bavaria, Mundel­heim. where we lodged. (5.) Lans­berg, [Page 108] a pretty Town,Lans­berg. with a handsom Fountain in the Market-place built in 1663. four German miles from Mundelheim. From hence we rode through no considerable Town till we came to Munchen, pas­sing by the Ammerzee, Ammer­zee Lake. a great Lake about three Ger­man miles in length, where we had the Alps or some very high Mountains in Prospect.

All Strangers that enter Munchen Munchen are first strictly examined at the Gate, their Names sent in to the the Governour, and they deteined till the return of the Messenger with leave for their Admission. This City is very strongly walled and fortified, and for the bigness of it is the most splendid and beautiful place we have seen in all Germany, so that well might Cluverius term it omnium Germanicarum pul­cherrimam. The Streets are broad and streight, a­dorned with sumptuous Churches and Cloisters, and stately Houses. Above all the Dukes Palace deserves Respect, not to say Admiration, it being the most magnificent and sumptuous Edifice for a House, that we have any where hitherto seen beyond the Seas. In the great Garden of this Palace we saw many rare Plants, among the rest we especially took no­tice of the Aloe-trees (for so I may well call them for the Greatness and Highth of their Stalks which shoot up in one year) of which there were more, I verlly think, in this one Garden than in all Europe besides; I mean of such as came to Stalk and Flower. In this City so far remote from our native Countrey it seemed strange to us to find a Cloister of English Nuns. We thought it worth noting that the Bodies of the Churches here are filled with Pews and Seats, as ours in England, whereas generally in the Chur­ches of the Roman-Catholics there are no fixed Seats, or but very few; the People either standing to hear their Sormons, or sitting on moveable Benches and Stools; that so when the Sermon is ended the Body of the Church may be again cleared. Having view­ed [Page 109] Munchen, the nearness of Augsburgh invited us thither, where we arrived August 21. having pas­sed by the way a pleasant little Town belonging to an Abby of Bernardines called Pruck; and after that a little walled Town seated on a Hill, called Frid­berg.

Augsburgh is a great City about eight miles in Compass,Augs­burgh. well walled and trenched about, standing upon the River Lech; The Houses for the most part well-built, the Streets adorned with several stately Fountains: The Armory comparable to that of Stras­burgh, consisting of twelve Rooms filled with Arms and Weapons of all sorts; The Stadthouse next to that of Amsterdam the fairest and most stately of any we have yet seen; in which there is one upper Room or Chamber very large and high-rooft, paved with Marble, richly gilt and painted both Roof and Walls, and in all respects scarce to be parallel'd. The Ci­tizens are divided between Papists and Lutherans, these latter being esteemed double the number of the former; yet have they seven Cloisters of Men and five of Women, whereof one English. Very few Reformed here. This is a free City of the Empire and governed by its own Magistrates. It seems to me at present for the bigness not very populous, and is, I believe, somewhat decayed, and short of what it hath been, both as to Riches and Multitude of Inhabitants: which may be attributed to the Losses and Injuries i [...] susteined in the late Wars. In a large Plain not far from Augsburgh, over which you pass going thence to Munchen, we observed many rare Plants, viz. Tithymalus verrucosus, Trifolium pratense album à Fuchsio depictum sive mas J. B. Pseudo-asphodelus Al­pinus C. B. Thlaspi clypeatum asperifolium seu biscuta­tum; Horminum sylv. latifolium Ger. Phalangium parvo flore non ramosum C. B. Carlina herbariorum Lob. Ge [...]tianella Autumnalis flore caruleo quinquefolio, ca­lyce pentagono grandi. Floris tubus è calyce non emi­net, [Page 110] ut in hujus generis aliis; sed folia tantùm ex­panduntur supra margines calycis, ut in Caryophyllis. Gentianellae species minima flore unico caeruleo elegan­tissimo, an minima Bavarica? Linum sylvestre latifo­lium caule viscoso flore rubro C. B. fortè. Folia habet pilosa, acuminata, modicè lata, nervis quinque per longitudinem decurrentibus, longitudine foliorum Lini: flos quinquefolius, coloris incarnati, ut vo­cant, saturatioribus & velut sanguineis lineolis stria­tus; Radix lignosa est, & per plures annos durare videtur. Cirsii seu cardui duae species: Priori flos Cirsii nostri Anglicani flori simillimus, & in uno caule plerun (que) unicus; verùm folia pallidè sunt vi­ridia, profundè laciniata & spinulis horrida; ad modum ferè Cardui viarum vulgatissimi: Alteri, quae jam defloruerat, folia viridia, non laciniata, breviora & latiora quàm praecedenti, in ambitu spi­nosa, & Hyoseris masculi foliis figurâ suâ nonnihil similia. Saxifraga Venetorum, Daucus montanus Apii foliis, flore luteo; Another sort of umbelliferous Plant very like to the Figure of Caucalis Peucedani folio; Lotus siliquosa lutea Monspeliensis J. B. near the River Lech, as also Bellis caerulea Monspeliaca Ger. Dory [...]nio congener planta; Thalictrum angustissimo fo­lio. By the way-side near the City in sandy Ground Rhamnus primus Diascoridis; and all about in stony places Caryophyllus gramineo folio minimus; not to mention those that we had elsewhere seen, v. g. Aster Atticus Italorum flore purpureo; Mezereon Ger­manicum, Asclepias flore albo, Anonymus flore Colu­teae, &c.

Aug. 28. we departed from Augsburgh, and being loth to leave behind us unseen so considerable a City as Nurenberg, which Cluver calls Germanicarum su­perbissimam, we bestowed three days on a Journey almost directly backwards to see it. The first day, after the Riding of six German miles we crossed the Danow over a Wooden Bridge to Donavert, Donavert a prett [...] [Page 111] Town belonging to the Duke of Bavaria, where we lodged. The second being the 29. of August we pas­sed through two walled Towns,Mon­haim. viz. Monhaim and Papenhaim, Papen­haim. and lodged at Weissenbergh an Imperial Town of some note, the Inhabitants whereof are all Lutherans, Weissen­bergh. it is [...]ive miles distant from Donavert. Nigh this Town is a strong Fort built upon a Hill, belonging to the Marquess of Anspach, who is also a Lutheran.

The third day being the thirtieth, we passed through a small walled Town called Pleinfeldt, Plein­feldt. and at three miles distance we rode close beside another walled Town called Rotte, Rotte. under the Marquess of Anspach, and after two hours riding more through Woods of Pine, we arrived at Nurenberg, Nuren­berg. which City we found to answer if not exceed our Expecta­tion; it being the most stately and best built that we have seen in Germany. The Houses are for the most part of Free-Stone, and were they but as uni­form as those of the Low-Countrey-Towns, Nuren­berg would not for Beauty give place to any of them. Besides it is rich, populous, and for bigness I think not inferiour to the best in Germany, though I am not ignorant that in this last respect some give Collen, some Erfurt the Preeminence. It hath under it a large Territory, comprehending above 100 Towns and Vil­lages. The Countrey round about is barren and san­dy▪ and the City far distant from the Sea, and standing upon but a small River; notwithstanding which Dis­advantages, by the Industry of the people, it is become one of the best traded and most potent Towns in Ger­many. The Inhabitants are for the most part Luthe­rans; they seemed to us in the Ornaments of their Churches and manner of their Worship more to sym­bolize with the Roman-Catholics than any other People of that Profession we had then observed. The Papists are allowed a small Church within the Walls, but the Reformed none. The great Piazza, the [Page 112] Stadt-house and other public Buildings deserve re­membrance. This Town wants not for Walls and Ditches, being every way well fenced and fortified. Finally, it is an Imperial City or Free Common­wealth, being governed by a Senate and Magistrates of its own: but of the Model or Form of Govern­ment for want of good Acquaintance, we could not get a perfect account.

As for Plants, we found no great variety near the City, but by the way we came from Augsburgh, we observed in several Woods near Papenhaim, Caryo­phyllus flore tenuissimè dissecto C. B. Not far from Weissenberg, Draba lutea siliquis strictissimis C. B. Gen­tianula lanugine ad singulorum foliorum lacinias donata, flore quadripartito J. B. Buglossum angustifolium, Cytisus Gesneri cui flores ferè spicati J. B. and a kind of Plant like to our Meadow Saxifrage, but taller and larger, An Seseli pratense Lob.?

September 3. from Nurenberg we began our Jour­ney to Ratisbone or Regensberg. This day we pro­ceeded no further than Aldtdorf, a little walled Town and an University belonging to the Nuren­bergers, where there is a pretty Physic-Garden. This Inscription in a Cloister in the College conteins the History of the Founding of this University.

Hoc Pietatìs & Doctrinarum omnium laudandum Do­micilium inclytus Senatus Noriberg. liberaliter extrui curavit die quae BB. Petro & Paulo sacra; inauguravit & publicavit, Anno Salutis MDLXXV. imperante D. Maximiliano II. Caes. Aug. PP. Cura­toribus Eccles. & Scholarum Georgio Volcomero, Philippo Geudero, & Hieronymo Baumgraffnero, Oppidi (que) Praefecto Balthasare Baumgraffnero. Ades ô Deus & piis conatibus volens propitius fave, ut certè favor exinde numinis eluxit, dum Anno quidem MDLXXVIII. subscribente votis landatissimi Sena­tûs autoritate & clementiâ augustissimi & invictissimi [Page 113] Imperatoris Rudolphi II. Curatoribus Hieronymo Baumgraffnero, Vilibaldo Schlisselfeldero, Bar­tholomaeo Poemero & Julio Geudero in culmen Academiae Gymnasium evexit: tandem (que) Anno Aerae Christianae MDCXXIII. ejusdem Senatûs desiderium sanctissimum prosperante divinitus amplissimâ indul­gentiâ sacratissimi Caesaris Augusti D. Ferdinandi II. Scholarchis Christophoro Furero, Georgio Christ. Volcomero, Udalrico Grundero & Carolo Schlif­selfeldero Universitatis titulo privilegiisque per­beavit. Fac proprium hoc nobis bonum, ô Fons aeterne boni.

In the College are mainteined 36 Students at the Charges of the City of Nurenberg, which also pays the Professors their Stipends. The Degrees confer­red here are Doctor of Law, Physic and Poetry, Batchelour of Divinity and Master of Arts. As for Plants there is a double Catalogue put out by Dr. Mauritius Hofman: one of such as are nursed up and preserved in the Physic-Garden: the other of such as grow wild near the Town; in the compo­sing of which he seems to have taken much pains, so that I believe this Catalogue is very full and exact.

Dr. Hofman shewed us several Cornua Ammonis, or Serpent-Stones and some petrified Cochle and Muscle-shells found in the Fields and Hop-Gardens near Altdorf, of which we our selves the day fol­lowing as we travelled from thence to Nieumarkt, in some fields we passed through, observed, and ga­thered up good store. Of these kinds of Bodies, I shall here take leave by way of digression to discourse a little: And first I shall make a particular enume­ration of some of the most remarkable places where they have been found, as well in England as beyond the Seas, partly of my own Observation, partly out of good Writers. Secondly, I shall give the Opi­nions [Page 114] of the best Authors concerning the Original and Production of them.

1 First then those places of England which afford plen­ty of these petrified Shells are (1.) Whithy or Whitebay in the North Riding of York-shire, where (as Camden relates in his Description of that Country) Lapides in­veniuntur serpentum in spiram revolutorum effigie, naturae ludentis miraculum.—Serpentes olim fuissê crederes quos lapideus cortex intexisset. Besides these Serpent-Stones which he alone mentions, we found there both upon the Shores and in the rocky Cliffs by the Sea-side petrified Muscles and Belemnites in great plenty. (2.) Huntley-nabb, on the same Coast, not far from Whitby to the Northwards, where (as the same Camden relates) upon the Shores under the Cliffs lie Stones varia magnitudine tam affabrè sphaericâ figurâ à natura efformati, ut globi artificis manu in majorum tormentorum usum tornati videantur. In quibus effractis Inveniuntur Serpentes saxei, suis spiris revol [...]i, sed qui pleri (que) capitihus destituti. At this place I never was, but upon the Shore at Whitby, I observed many of this kind of Balls, that is, Ser­pent-stones crusted over with or enclosed in another Stone, as in their Case or Matrix, and leaving there­in when broken, their Impression, but none of that exact sphaerical roundness he mentions, but rather of a lenticular figure. (3.) Alderley in Glocester­shire mentioned by the same Author in his Descri­ption of that Country. Ad fontes Avon fluvioli (saith he) vix vcto mill. pass. à litore in collibus prope Alderley viculum lapides cochlearum & ostrearum specie enascun­tu [...], quae sive viva fuerint aliquando animantia, sive naturae ludicra quoerant Philosophi naturae venatores. (4.) Kinesham or Cainsham in Somersetshire, not far from Alderley, so called (saith Camden) from Keina a holy British Virgin, quam serpentes in lapides mutasse superioris aevi credulitas multis persuasit, eò quòd ejusmodi Indeulis naturae miracula ibi in latomiis nonnunquam [Page 115] inveniantur, Vidimus enim lapidem hinc delatum ser­pentis in spiram revoluti effigie, cujus caput imperfectius in circumferentia prominuit, extremâ cauda centrum occupante. Of these Serpent-Stones we saw several sorts here, and some of that extraordinary bigness, that (as I remember) they were about a Foot in Dia­meter. (5.) Farnham in Surrey, mentioned by Dr. Merret in his Pinax. (6.) Richmond in York-shire mentioned by Camden. Beside which places my self and Friends have seen and gathered of them at Lyme in Dorsetshire, Adderbury in Oxfordshire (which doubtless thence had its name) about five miles di­stant from Banbury, Bricksworth in Northamptonshire, and in several places near Daventry, Verulam in Hartfordshire, Shukborough in Warwickshire. And which is most strange, Mr. Eyre of Highlooe in the Peak of Derbyshire shew'd us a great lump of them amassed together by a Cement as hard as Marble, found in that mountainous Countrey; And Mr. Mar­tin Lister assures us that there are store of them found in Craven the most mountainous and craggy part of York-shire: and in a Discourse of his con­cerning them, published in the Philosophical Tran­sactions, Numb. 76. pag. 2283. he mentions for them Adderton in York-shire, thence denominated, Wansford Bridge in Northamptonshire, and Gunthrop and Beau­voir. Castle in Lincoln and Nottingham-shires.

Besides these petrified Shells there are found in several places of England other congenerous Bodies, viz. Star stones, by some called Astroites; by Boetius de Boot, Asterias vera seu Lapis stellaris; by Gesner, Sphragis Asteros; by Fer. Imperat. Stella Judaica. (2.) S. Cuthhert's Beads or Trochites and (3.) Cap-Stones or Echinites, called by Naturalists Lapides brontioe. Of the Glossopetrae I have not yet heard that there have been any found in England, which I do not a little wonder at, there being Sharks frequently taken upon our Coasts.

[Page 116] 1. Of those they call Star-Stones (because they run out into five Angles like so many Rays as they use to picture Stars with) there are found at Shukborough in Warwick-shire and Cassington near Glocester, where we also have gathered of them. Camden mentions a third place, that is Beauvoir-Castle in Lincolnshire, sub quo (saith he) inveniuntur Astroites lapides, qui stellas invicem connexas repraesentant, in quibus radii eminent singulis angulis quini, & singulis radiis cavitas media subsidet. We have had them also sent us out of York-shire, but remember not where they were ga­thered.

II. Those they call S. Cuthhert's Beads are found on the Western shore of the s Holy Island. This last Summer [1671.] Tho. Willisell discovered them in the Chinks of the Stones in the bottom of the Cha­nel of the River Tees, which parts York-shire and the Bishoprick of Duresine. These are round and not angular like the Star-Stones. Both (if they be owing to the Sea) seem to be the Spinoe dorsales or Tail-Bones of Fishes petrified, they consisting for the most part of several Plates or Pieces sticking to­gether like so many vertebrae, though I confess the particular Pieces are shorter or thinner than the Ver­tebres of any Fish I have as yet observed.

III. The Echinites or Brontiae are found scattered all over England of several magnitudes and shapes. I have not heard of any Bed of them or great num­ber found in one place. Beyond the Seas we have (besides the place which gave occasion to this Dis­course) found of them at Brescia in Lombardy on the sides of a Hill adjoining to the City: upon the Banks of the River Tanaro in Piedmont four miles be­low Aste, but most plentifully in the Island of Malta, where we also saw great store of Glossopetrae or Sharks Teeth petrified of all sorts and sizes.

For the Glossopetroe, Boetius de Boot lib. 2. cap. 168. saith they are found in the Sands near Daventer in [Page 117] Overyssel, and in the Alum-Mines near Lunenburgh in Germany. Goropius Becanus in Orig. Antverp. l. 3. saith that they are often digged up in the Ditches about Antwerp; and found in so great plenty in a Hill near Aken in Germany, that he thinks it a good Argument to prove that they could not be the Teeth of Sharks: In colle illo qui Aquisgrano imminet tantum id genus piscium fuisse qúis crederet quantum de Glosso­petrarum copia conjectari deberet.

For petrified Cochles and other Sea-Shells, Geo. Agricola saith there are found of them in the Stone-Quarries of Galgeberg and those beyond Mount Maurice in the Territory of Hildesheim in Saxony; and sometimes in the new part of the City itself in digging of Cellars and in the Town-Ditch, (2.) At Alfeld in the same Saxony between the Watch-Tower and the Town as one goes to Embeck. (3.) At Hannover in the Lime or Chalk-stone Pits, and near a Village called Lindaw. (4.) In Misnia in the Vil­lage Rabschyts near the Brook Trebitia. (5.) In a certain place of Prussia called the Rose- Garden. (6.) In Hassi [...] near the Castle of Spangeberg. (7.) In Italy in a Mountain near Verona. (8.) In the Banks of the River Elsa, & prope oppidum ex Florentinis condi­toribus nominatum. Of these Shells amassed together into great Stones by a petrified Cement are found (as Pausanias relates) in the Quarries of Megara, which kind of Stone is therefore called Conchites. They are also found in Thessaly, Hemionia, Mace­donia, the Mountains of Calabria, &c. And Steno in his Prodromus saith, that in those huge Stones which lie scattered in some places about the Town of Volterra (being the remainders of antient Walls) there are found all sorts of Shells, and not long since in the middle of the Market-place there was cut out a Stone full of streaked Cochles. Jo. Bauhine saith that in the Slate-stone digged out of the Foun­tain of Boll, where with the Inhabitants covered their [Page 118] Houses, there appeared several Figures, whereof some represented Serpents, some Snails, some Scal­lops, some Cochles, some Muscles, &c. and that there were digged up many petrified Shells of Cochles, Muscles, Scallops, Periwinkles, Cornua Ammonis, &c.

Scaliger Exercitat. 196. Sect. 9. saith, In saxis La­narum (tractus est hic Agri Vasateusis) ad pagum qui Cohors dicitur, saxeos can [...]ros multos vidimus, procul à mari plurimum, â Garumnâ 30 circiter millia passuum.

Bernardus Palissius names these places in France where petrified Shells are found; The Suburb of S. Martial near Paris; The Mountains of the Forest of Arden, especially near Sedan; The Province of Valois; The Mountains near S [...]issons; The Province of Xantogae and Champagne.

Joannes de Laet in his second Book de Gemmis, cap. 29. relates how Bartholomew Morisot wrote to him from Dijon in Burgundy, that in a Rock near that City at the distance from the Sea, called le Fort aux Feos, were found great numbers of Stones imi­tating Sea-shells, his words are, Vbique prostant lapi­des formâ rotundâ ac striatâ, qui ipsam superinduisse videntur Conchyliorum marin orum materiem, ues [...]io quo sale per infirmiora crescentium lapidum penetrante, pau­latimque ita crescente ut ambienti undi (que) lapidi unifor­mem Conchyliorum formam faciat, nist quod alia aliis majora sint, ita ut si lapidi lapident attriveris, è medio utri [...]sque conchyli [...] lapidea [...]rumpant, obversa, transversa, mixta, inaequali quidem p [...]oportione sed formâ unâ, &c.

The same Joannes de Laet gives us another Rela­tion from Jacobus Salmasius Uncle to Claudius Sal­masius and Lord of Sauvignac, of great store of these petrified Shells found in the stony Fields about Sau­vignac, which I shall here exhibit to the Reader in his own words; Pagus ille Salviniacum uno milliari distat ab Avallono, ut nun [...] appellatur, vel ut prius [Page 119] vocabatur Aballono, & 3 aut 4 mil. à Vezelio poetria Theodori Bezae. Hujus pagi ager arabilis montosus est & lapidosus totus, qui tamen est feracissimus. In la­pidibus illis reperiuntur inserta quasi ex differenti lapi­dis materia omne genus conchylia aliquando plura, ali­quando pauciora prout est ipsius saxi magnitudo. Visun­tur ibi Pectines, Ostrea, Solenes, Cornua Hammonis & alia genera. In toto illo tractu per spatium trium aut quatuor milliarium haec [...] in agris reperi­untur us (que) ad appidum vel castrum Montis Regalis, no­mine Mont-real, cujus ditionis ager consitus est totus hujusmodi lapidibus varias conchyliorum species, partim interi [...]s insert [...]s, partim in superficie etiam extantes praeferentibus.

In Italy besides the places already mentioned, we were told, that there were found of these Shells in the Territory of Modena in a Mountain called Monte Nicani, and in the Chanel of a River near Vdine in Friuli thence called Rivus miraculorum, and doubt­less in many other places. And for the Lon-Coun­tries, Goropius l'ecanus saith, Apud vicinos nostros Limburgos, Leodios, Chondrusios, Namurcos, Han­nones, Atrebates, Tornacenses, & alios multos, à quibus vel Marmora nobis vel alia lapidum genera ad­vehuntur, non parva est concharum copia & varietas. Vidi in silice durissimo Bethunis advecto, quo viae apud nos sternuntur, tot conchulas totas lapideas, & conclusis valvulis integras, magnâ ut curd & arte ex illis fuisse caemento aliquo compactus judicaretur.

Besides all which places and others mentioned by Writers I doubt not but in Italy, Germany, France, England and the Low-Countries there are many not taken notice of where these Bodies might be found, were diligent Search and Observation made. That they have not been discovered or taken notice of in other parts of Europe and in Asia and Africa is cer­tainly to be attributed to the Negligence and Rede­ness of the People who mind nothing that is curious, [Page 120] or to the want of learned Writers who should com­municate the Histories of them to the World.

II I come now to give an account of the Opinions of the best Authors concerning the Original and Pro­duction of these Stones.

The first and to me most probable Opinion is that they were originally the Shells or Bones of living Fishes and other Animals bred in the Sea. This was the general Opinion of the Antients, insomuch that Steno saith, It was never made a Question among them, whether such Bodies came from any place else but the Sea. It hath of late times and is now received and embraced by divers learned and ingenious Philosophers, as in the precedent age by Fracastorius, and in the present by Nicolaus Steno and Mr. Robert Hook, after whom I need name no more to give it countenance and authority in the World. In his Micrographia, Observ. 17. He thus discourses concerning these Bodies. Examining some of these very curiously figured Bodies (found about Keinsham, which are commonly thought to be Stones formed by some extraordinary plastic Vir­tue latent in the Earth itself) I took notice of these particulars.

First, that these figured Bodies were of very dif­fering Substances as to hardness: some of Clay, some Marl, some soft Stone, almost of the hardness of those Stones, which Masons call Fire-Stone, others as hard as Portland Stone, others as hard as Marble, and some as hard as a Flint or Crystal.

Next, they were of very differing Substances as to Transparency and Colour; some white, some almost black, some brown, some metalline or like Marcasites, some transparent like white Marble, others like flaw'd Crystal, some gray, some of divers colours; some radiated like those long petrified drops, which are commonly found at the Peak and in other subterraneous Caverns, which have a kind of Pith in the middle.

[Page 121] Thirdly, that they were very different as to the manner of their outward Figuration: for some of them seem'd to have been the Substance that had filled the Shell of some kind of Shell-fish; others to have been the Substance that had conteined or enwrapped one of these Shells, on both which the perfect impres­sion either of the inside or outside of such Shels seem'd to be left, but for the most part those impressions seem­ed to be made by an imperfect or broken Shell, the great end or mouth of the Shell being always wanting and oftentimes the little end and sometimes half, and in some there were Impressions, just as if there had been Holes broken in the figurating, imprinting or moulding Shell: some of them seem'd to be made by such a Shell very much bruised or flaw'd, inso­much that one would verily have thought, that very figured Stone had been broken or bruised whilst a Gelly as 'twere, and so hardned, but within the Grain of the Stone there appeared not any sign of any such bruise or breaking, but only on the very uttermost Superficies.

Fourthly, they were very different as to their outward covering, some having the perfect Shell both in Figure, Colour and Substance sticking on its surface, and adhering to it, but might very easily be separated from it, and like other common Cochle or Scallop-shells, which some of them most accurately resembled, were very dissoluble in common Vinegar: others of them, especially those serpentine or helical Stones, were covered with or reteined the shining or pearl-coloured Substance of the inside of the Shell, which Substance on some parts of them was exceed­ing thin, and might very easily be rubbed off; on other parts it was pretty thick, and reteined a white Coat or flaky Substance on the top, just like the sides of such Shells: some of them had large pieces of the Shell very plainly sticking on to them, which were easily to be broken or flaked off by degrees: [Page 122] they likewise some of them reteined all along the surface of them very pretty kind of Sutures, such as are observed in the Skulls of several kinds of living Creatures, which Sutures were most curiously shaped in the manner of Leaves, and every one of them in the same Shell exactly one like another; which I was able to discover plainly enough with my naked eye, but more perfectly and distinctly with my Mi­croscope: All these Sutures I found by breaking some of the Stones to be the Termini or boundings of certain Diaphragms or partitions, which seemed to divide the Cavity of the Shell into a multitude of very proportionate and regular Cells or Caverns: these Diaphragms in many of them I found very perfect and complete, of a very distinct Substance from that which filled the Cavities, and exactly of the same kind with that which covered the out­side, being for the most part whitish or mother of-Pearl coloured.

As for the Cavities between those Diaphragms, I found some of them fill'd with Marl, and others with several kinds of Stones, others for the most part hollow, only the whole Cavity was usually covered over with a kind of Tartareous petrified Sub­stance, which stuck about the Sides, and was there shot into very curious regular Figures, just as Tartar or other dissolved Salts are observed to stick and crystallize about the sides of the conteining Vessels; or like those little Diamants, which I before obser­ved to have covered the vaulted Cavity of a Flint; others had these Cavities all lined with a metalline or Marcasite-like substance, which I could with a Microscope as plainly see most curiously and regularly figured, as I had done those in a Flint.

From all which and several other particulars which I observed, I cannot but think, that all these, and most other kinds of stony bodies which are found thus strangely figured, do ow their Formation and [Page 123] Figuration not to any kind of Plastic Virtue inherent in the Earth, but to the Shells of certain Shell-fishes, which either by some Deluge, Inundation, Earthquake or some such other means came to be thrown to that place, and there to be filled with some kind of Mud or Clay, or petrifying Wa­ter or some other Substance, which in tract of time hath been setled together and hardned in those shelly Moulds into those shaped Substances we now find them; That the great and thin end of these Shells, by that Earthquake, or whatever other extraordi­nary cause it was that brought them thither, was broken off; and that many others were otherwise broken, bruised and disfigured; that these Shells which are thus spirallied and separated with Dia­phragms, were some kind of Nautili or Porcelane-Shells; and that others were Shells of Muscles, Cochles, Periwinkles, Scallops, &c. of various sorts; that these Shells in many from the particular nature of the conteining or inclosed earth or some other cause, have in tract of time rotted and mouldred away, and only left their Impressions both on the conteining and conteined Substances; and so left them pretty loose one within another, so that they may easily be separated by a knock or two of a ham­mer. That others of these Shell-fishes according to the nature of the Substances have by a long continu­ance in that posture, been petrified and turned into the nature of Stone. That oftentimes the Shell may be found with one kind of Substance within and quite another without, having perhaps been filled in one place and afterwards translated to another, which I have very frequently observed in Cochle, Muscle, Periwincle, and other Shells, which I have found by the Sea-side. Nay further, that some parts of the same Shell may be filled in one place, and some other Caverns in another, and others in a third or a fourth or a fifth place, for so many differing Sub­stances [Page 124] have I found in one of the petrified Shells, and perhaps all these differing from the encompassing Earth or Stone: The means how all which varieties may be caus'd, I think will not be difficult to conceive, to any one that has taken notice of those Shells, which are commonly found on the Sea-shore: And he that shall throughly examin, several kinds of such curiously form'd Stones, will (I am very apt to think) find reason to suppose their generation or formation to be ascribable to some such Accidents as I have mentioned, and not to any Plastic Virtue. For it seems to me quite contrary to the infinite prudence of Nature, which is observable in all its works and productions, to design every thing to a determinate end, and for the atteining that end makes use of such ways as are (as far as the knowledge of man has yet been able to reach) altogether consonant and most agreeable to mans reason, and of no way or means that doth contradict or is contrary to human ratiocination; whence it has a long time been a ge­neral Observation and Maxim, that Nature doth no­thing in vain: it seems I say contrary to that great wisdom of Nature, that these prettily shaped Bodies should have all those curious figures and contrivan­ces (which many of them are adorn'd and contriv'd with) generated or wrought by a Plastic Virtue, for no higher end than only to exhibit such a form; which he that shall throughly consider all the circum­stances of such kind of figured Bodies, will I think have great reason to believe, though I confess one cannot be able presently to find out what Natures designs are. Thus far Mr. Hook. And Steno agrees exactly with him, and is far more positive and con­fident; For (saith he) that these Shells were once the parts of Animals living in a fluid, though there never had been any testaceous marine Creatures, the very view of the Shell itself evinceth, as may be evident by the instance of bivalve Cochle-shells. Con­cerning [Page] [...] [Page 129] these Shells his Observations and Discourses are very consonant with Mr. Hook's. One or two particulars not yet mentioned, which may further confirm this Opinion, I find in him, viz. (1.) That there was found a Pearl-bearing Shell in Tuscany, a Pearl yet sticking to the Shell. (2.) A piece of the greater Sea-nacre [Piuna marina] in which the silk-like substance within the Shell being consumed, the colour of that substance did remain in that earthy matter which had filled the Shell. (3.) That about the City of Volterra there are many beds of earth not stony, which do abound with true Cochle-shells that have suffered no change at all, and yet they must needs have lain there above 3000 years; whence it is evident, that part of Tuscany was of old time covered with the Sea, and why then might not as well all those other places where these petrified Shells are found.

Against this Opinion lie two very considerable and material Objections, which I shall heer pro­pound.

First, it will hence follow that all the Earth was once covered by the Sea, and that for a considerable time: for there being found of these Shells in the middle of Germany, at least 200 miles distant from any Sea, as my self can witness, nay, upon the high­est Mountains of Europe, even the Alps themselves, (as may be proved by sufficient Authority) the Sea must needs have covered them, and consequently, the water keeping its level, all Europe and the World besides. Now that ever the Water should have co­vered the Earth to that highth as to exceed the tops of the highest Mountains, and for a considerable time abode there, is hard to believe, nor can such an Opinion be easily reconciled with the Scripture. If it be said that these Shells were brought in by the universal Deluge in the time of Noah, when the Mountains were covered. I answer, that that De­luge [Page 126] proceeded from Rain, which was more likely to carry Shells down to the Sea, than to bring any upwards from it. But because some may argue from what the Scripture saith, [The fountains of the great deep were broken up,] that the Deluge proceeded part­ly from a breaking forth and overflowing of the Sea, and consequently might bring in these Shells: To that I answer, that had it been so, such a Flood would have been more likely to scatter such Shells as it brought in indifferently all over the surface of the Earth, than to lay them in great beds in particu­lar places: such beds seem to have been the effect of those Animals breeding there for some considerable time. If it be said, that those Mountains where such Shells are found might at first have been low places, and afterwards raised up by Earthquakes, that seems not likely, because they are found upon so many Mountains, unless it be said, that all Mountains were at first so raised, and then the former difficulty will recurr, and it will follow, that before the rai­sing of the first Mountains, the whole Earth was covered by the Sea. Besides, this Hypothesis seems to me in itself improbable, for that though there be mention made in Histories of some such Mountains raised by Earthquakes, yet they are but very few and of no considerable highth or greatness, compared with those chains of high and vast Mountains, the Alps, Pyrenees, Appennine, Taurus, Caucasus, Imaus, Haemus, Atlas, &c. In general since the most anti­ent times recorded in History, the face of the Earth hath suffered little change, the same Mountains, Islands, Promontories, Lakes, Rivers still remain­ing, and very few added, lost or removed. Whence it will follow, that if the Mountains were not from the beginning, either the World is a great deal older than is imagined or believed, there being an incre­dible space of time required to work such changes as raising all the Mountains, according to the leisurely [Page 127] proceedings of Nature in mutations of that kind since the first Records of History: or that in the primitive times and soon after the Creation the earth suffered far more concussions and mutations in its superficial part than afterward.

II. Among these petrified Shells are many sorts, which are not at this day that we know of any where to be found; nay some proceed so far as to affirm, that there is not the like to any one of these supposed petrified Shells to be found among our present Shell-fishes. If it be said, that these Species be lost out of the World: that is a supposition which Philo­sophers hitherto have been unwilling to admit, esteeming the destruction of any one Species to be a dismembring the Universe and rendring it imper­fect, whereas they think the Divine Providence is especially concerned to preserve and secure all the Works of the Creation. Yet granting that some few Species might be lost, it is very unlikely that so many should, and still more unlikely that such as were so diffused all over Europe and found in so many places; but most of all that a whole Genus, of which there were so many several Species, and those scattered in so many distinct and from each other remote places, should be so utterly extinct and gone, at least out of our Seas, that there should not one in an age be found. Such are for example the Serpentine Stones or Cornua Ammonis supposed originally to have been Nautili, of which I my self have seen five or six distinct Spe­cies, and doubtless there are yet many more. Add heerunto the greatness of some of these Shells, viz. the Cornua Ammonis, whereof there are found of about a foot Diameter, far exceeding the bulk of any Shell-fish now breeding or living in our Seas.

The second Opinion is of those who imagine these bodies to have been the effects and products of some Plastic power in the Earth; and to have been formed after the manner of Diamants and other pre­tious [Page 128] Stones, or the Crystals of coagulated Salts, by shooting into such figures. Of these bodies my very ingenious and learned Friend Mr. Martin Lister discourses in a Letter of his inserted in the Philosoph. Transact. Numb. 76. to this purpose, upon occasion of Mr. Steno's Prodromus. We will easily believe, that in some Countries, and particularly along the shore of the Mediterranean Sea, there may all manner of Shell-fishes be found promiscuously included in rocks or earth, and at good distances too from the Sea. But for our English inland Quarries, which also abound with infinite numbers and great varieties of Shells, I am apt to think there is no such matter as petrifying of Shells in the business (or as Steno ex­plains himself, Pag. 84. in the English version & alibi, that the substance of these Shells formerly belonging to Animals, hath been dissolved or wasted by the penetrating force of Juices, and that a stony substance is come in the place thereof) but that these Cochle­like Stones ever were as they are at present, Lapides sui generis, and never any part of an Animal. That they are so at present is in effect confessed by Steno in the above-cited page; and it is most certain, that our English Quarry-shells (to continue that abusive name) have no parts of a different texture from the Rock or Quarry they are taken, that is, that there is no such thing as Shell in these resemblances of Shells, but that Iron-stone Cochles are all Iron-stone, Lime or Marble all Lime-stone and Marble, Spar or Crystalline Shells all Spar, &c. and that they never were any part of an Animal. My Reason is, that Quarries of different Stone yield us quite different sorts or Species of Shells, not only one from another (as those Cochle-stones of the Iron-stone Quarries of Adderton in Yorkshire differ from those found in the Lead-Mines of the neighbouring Mountains, and both these from that Cochle-Quarry of Wansford-Bridge in Northamptonshire, and all thee from those [Page 129] to be found in the Quarries about Gunthorp and Beauvo [...]r-Castle, &c.) but I dare boldly say from any thing in Nature besides, that either the Land, salt or fresh Waters do yield us. 'Tis true that I have picked out of that one Quarry of Wansford very re­semblances of Murices, Tellinae, Turbines, Cochleae, &c. and yet I am not convinc'd, when I particularly examined some of our English Shores for Shells, as also the fresh Waters and the Fields, that I did ever meet with any one of those Species of Shells any where else but in their respective Quarries, whence I conclude them Lapides sui generis, and that they were not cast in any Animal mould whose Species or race is yet to be found in being at this day. Thus far Mr. Lister. The like Argument also Goropius Becanus uses to prove that these Bodies are not petri­fied Shells. Scallop-shells (saith he) are so rare upon the shores of Flanders, that they are brought thither by Pilgrims from the coast of Gallicia in Spain, and shown for strange things; and yet in the ditches about Antwerp there is such plenty of them, that in digging there they throw up heaps of them like little mountains, so that he that would gather of them need not take the pains to travel to Gallicia, or so much as to the Sea-shores. To these he adds ano­ther Argument which yet to me seems of little force. In some places about Antwerp digging for water, they meet with in the earth a crust or Layer of two foot thickness and in some parts thinner, wholly made up of Sea-shells, whereas there was never found such a Mass of Shells upon any of the Sea-shores; so that no man can reasonably assert that they were thrown up by the Sea and there left, the waters receding and forsaking them; for then with­out question we should hear of the like heaps or beds of them found on the coasts of Holland, Zealand and Flanders But to this I answer that the reason why at this day there are not such beds of them to be [Page 130] found upon the shores, may be, because they are ga­thered up and carried away by men, partly out of curiosity, partly to burn for lime or other ways to make use of. Besides we know that in the bottom of the Sea, these Shell-fishes many times lie in great beds, and there breed in great abundance, and it is not altogether unlikely, that the Sea might on occasion suddenly recede and desert such beds, and they afterwards come to be buried in the Earth.

But to argue further in defence of this Opinion. There are found in the earth many such like figured Stones which we know not whither to refer, as re­sembling neither any part of an Animal, nor of a Plant: Such are those that Naturalists call Lapides Ly [...]curii, Belemnites, Lapides Judaivi, Trochites, As [...]eriae and others, to which if there be at present any Shells, Bones, Fruits, Roots, &c. like, I am as yet wholly to seek for them. And if there are now no such things in being, they that defend the contrary Opinion must have recourse to that gratu­itous supposition that such Species are lost out of the World.

Besides I have been told by a person of good cre­dit of a Stone of this nature resembling a Cochle-shell found in the stomach of a Beef; where in all likelihood it must be bred and shoot into that figure; which if true, there can be no reason to doubt, but those in the Stone-Quarries and other places are so generated.

A third Opinion there is, that some of these bodies are really Shells petrified, or the cases of such bodies or their contents: and that others of them are stones of their own kind resembling such Shells, so shaped and figured by some Plastic power. That Shells may be and are sometimes petrified (as are also Bones and Wood) cannot be denied, and I my self have gathered such upon the Sea-shore; and on the other hand, he that asserts that there are bodies [Page 131] naturally growing in the earth, which do imitate Sea-shells, delivers himself from the trouble of an­swering the Arguments which urge the contrary opinion. But yet methinks this is but a shift and refuge to avoid trouble, there not being sufficient ground to found such a distinction. For my own part I confess I propend to the first Opinion, as being more consonant to the nature of the thing, and could wish that all external arguments and obje­ctions against it were rationally and solidly answered.

The Names of the Professors in each Faculty, and what Books they read, together with their Exercises, the following Series Lectionum will acquaint the Reader.

[Page 136] Sept. 4. we proceeded on our journey to Ratis­bone, and passed through Nieumarkt, a little walled town belonging to the Duke of Bavaria.

5. We passed through Heinmaw a small walled town subject to the Duke of Neuburg, and at night, passing the River Danow, by a fair Stone-Bridge, we entred Ratisbone or Regensberg so called from the River Regen, which heer falls into the Da­now.

This City is large and well built (the houses be­ing for the most part of stone) adorned with many fair palaces of noble men,Regens­berg or Ratisbon well walled about and fortified. The streets are but narrow. The roofs of the houses are not built so steep as at Augsburgh, Nurenburgh, &c. or as ours in England, but flattish after the Italian made. The Diet of the Empire is usually held heer, it being an Imperial City, and governed by its own magistrates, though in the D. of Bavaria's countrey. This city hath a Bishop, who is of the Romish Religion, but he hath little to do, all the magistrates and the greatest part of the Inhabitants being Lutherans. Yet some cloi­sters there are of Monks and Nuns, and a college of Jesuits.

Upon the rocks not far from Ratisbone a little be­low the town on the other side the river we found, besides many of the rarer sort of our English plants, Asclepias flore albo. Daucus montanus Apii folio major C. B. Apium montanum nigrum J. B. Caucalis Peucedani folio Ger. as I take it: It hath a fine leaf, a small root (which I believe yearly perishes) reddish stalks, an umbel of white flowers, to which suc­ceed small round seeds with purple apices: An Dau­cus montanus Apii folio, flore luteo C. B? It hath wing­ed leaves like to Bipennella but larger, the several wings of each leaf being as large as and like unto the intire leaf of the said Bipennella; a great root, but not hot; in tast as the Burnet-Saxifrages are; the [Page 137] stalk riseth up to the highth of a man almost; the seeds are round, striate, covered with a hoary down, reddish toward the top, and of a hot spicy tast. Ti­thymalus verrucosus J. B. Stoebe major calyculis non splendantibus C. B. Hepaticum trifolium Lob. Flam­mula Jovis; Cerinthe major flore luteo; Fraxinella; Cytisus supinus sylvest. Ratisponensis flor. lut. ad exortum foliorum prodeuntibus Cat. Aldtdorf. Cytisus Gesneri cui flores ferè spicati J. B. Euphrasia pratensis lutea C. B. which we first found not far from Heinmaw; Pha­langium ramosum; Chamaedrys vulgaris & Cham. foliis laciniatis; Aster montanus luteus hirsuto salicis folio; Aster Austriacus 4 Clus. i. e. Linaria aurea Tragi; Aster Atticus Italorum flore purpureo Park. Oxyacantha sive Berberis; Bugula caerulea Alpina; Orobanche mi­nor purpureis floribus, sive ramosa, in the Corn-fields. Chondrilla carulea J. B. Folia huic valdè laciniata, gla­bra, glauca. Flores longis insident pediculis, dilutè caerulei & ad ruborem inclinantes. Securidaca du­metorum major flore vario, siliquis articulatis C. B. which is common all over Germany. Veronica supina facie Teucrii pratensis no less common; Lepidium annuum growing among Radishes; and Foenum Grae­cum which I suppos, was sown there.

Septemb. 10. we hired a Boat for Vienna: First, on our left hand as we went down the river, we passed by a little village and a castle standing on a hill, called Thonastan. About three miles and half below Regensberg we passed in sight of Wert, a castle belonging to the Bishop of Ratisbone, seated on a hill by a river called Wisent, which heer runs into the Danow. Strau­bing. This night we lodged at Straubing, a very handsom, pleasant, walled Town, belonging to the Duke of Bavaria, five miles below Ratis­bone.

Sept. 12. in the morning we past Pogen where is a Church standing on a high hill. Four miles below Straubing we rowed under a wooden bridge which [Page 138] there crosses the Danow. Heer on the left hand as one goes down, stands Dreckendorf, a walled town belonging to the Duke of Bavaria. A little further off we passed by the mouth of the river Iser. Then we had a prospect of Osterhoven on our left hand, and not far thence a small village called Hofkirchen, and on the same side still a little castle called Hilkersberg, where the shores along the river began to be rocky. This night we lodged at a pretty little walled town built of stone,Vilsho­ven. called Vilshoven, belonging to Bavaria.

Sept. 13.Passaw. At four miles distance from Vilshoven we came to Passaw, a considerable city for its strength and greatness, formerly well built with many fair stone houses. But about three quarters of a year before our being there, a most dreadful Fire burnt down, ruin'd and destroy'd almost the whole Town, Churches, public buildings and all. It is situate just at the confluence of the rivers In and Danow, and subject to the Archduke of Inspruck, who, we were told, gave 50000 dollars towards the rebuild­ing of it. Heer is a bridge over the river In to a town called Instat. Hitherto the river Danow flow­ed gently down, but below Passaw, it began to be streightned by hills on both sides and to run with a swifter stream. Seven miles from Passaw we passed by Nayhonse castle, and this third night lodged at a pretty little village belonging to the Emperor called Asch, standing on the right side of the river.

Sept. 14. we had an open countrey again, no hills being near the river. At four miles end we landed at Lintz, Lintz. and viewed the city, which we found to be a very elegant place, well built with stone hou­ses flat rooft after the Italian fashion; having a large square Piazza with two fountains in it, and on the highest part a fair palace of the Emperor, whence there is a pleasant prospect of the Danow and Coun­trey adjacent. About three miles below Lintz we [Page 139] passed a pretty village on our left hand, called Mal­hausen. Then we had a prospect of a town on our right hand situate upon the river Ens called Intz. Seven miles below Lintz are hills again on both sides the river. Heerabouts is a village called Greine, where the Earl of Lichtenstein hath a house situate on a hill. Below Greine on the left hand is a little village, where we past a dangerous place in the river called Strom, where the stream being streightned by hills on each hand runs very swiftly, and besides is full of rocks: a little further below a rock, which jets a good way out into the river, we passed a vio­lent whirtl-pool called the Werble. At some distance further on the left hand stands a small village under a high hill, half whereof fell down about two years before our being there, which made so great a noise that it was heard two German miles off, at Ips, a little town we passed by on the right hand. We lod­ged this fourth night at a small village called Mor­pach, 11 miles from Lintz.

Sept. 15. in the morning we went by a rich cloi­ster called Melk on our right. At six miles distance from our lodging we passed a fair house of the Earl of Dernstein's on our left hand, and heerabout had a prospect of Ketwein a rich Abby strongly situate on a hill, attempted by the Swedes without succchess. About nine miles from Marbach we passed under a wooden bridge by a little walled town called Stein, where the Swedes (they told us) were notably beaten and driven out again after they had entred the town; which repulse they afterwards revenged, when they took the place, by plundering and spoiling it. Not far hence we landed to view Krembs, Krembs. a considerable city seated on the side of a hill, well-built, walled about and trenched towards the river. From hence we came into an open countrey, and the river being at liberty, the chanel grew much wider. Six miles below Krembs we passed by a small walled Town oh [Page 140] the right hand called Deuln; then we had the pro­spect of Greitenstein, a castle situate on a hill at some distance from the river on the left hand; next we had a sight of Cornberg, a wall'd town in a plain not far from the Danow; taken by the Swedes in the late wars and by them notably defended against the Emperor. Heer and afterward at several other pla­ces we observed mills built upon two boats, the wheel lying between the boats, which are fixed at a convenient distance one from another, and so the stream coming between the boats, and by reason it is streightned by degrees, running more swiftly, turns the wheel. One of the boats is by strong cables or chains at each end fastned to the bank, and so the boats, mill and all rise and fall with the water. About a mile and half before we reach'd Vienna we went by a fair rich Abby called Claisternaiberg, with a little wall'd town of the same name; and at the end of 19 German miles, which the swiftness of the current assisting us, we made this day, we arrived at Vienna, Vienna. the chief city of Austria, and at present the imperial seat, so called from the river Wien which runs into the Danow no the East side of the Town. It is for the bigness of it the most frequent and full of people that we have yet seen beyond the seas. The wall is not above four or five English miles in cir­cuit, but there are large Suburbs at a little distance from the town, those houses that were very near being lately pull'd down to clear the wall and works for fear of a Siege: The Tures at the time of our being there having taken Neuhausel, and news com­ing that they were marching with their whole army towards Presburg in Hungary, not above 40 English miles distant from Vienna. This City is regularly and strongly fortified with a high and impenetrable wall of earth faced with brick, a broad and deep trench, into which they can (as they told us) when they please draw the water; Bastions, half-moons [Page 141] and horn-words, &c. that it is justly reputed one of the strongest holds of Christendom. The inner wall, which was said to be built with the ransom of Richard. I. King of England, is of little strength or consideration in comparison with the new and outer one. The houses are sufficiently tall and well built of stone, the roofs flattish after the Italian mode: The streets rather narrow than broad; the markets well stored with all necessaries. Heer we first met with tortoises to be sold, at the rate of six pence apiece: they are found in muddy ditches in these parts. Heer also we first took notice of the fruit of Sorbus legitima; and first saw in the fish-markets the Silurus or Sheat-fish, the greatest of all fresh­water fish that we have seen, some of them weighing above 100 pound. The Emperors palace, the Ca­thedral church and other public buildings deserve remembrance were it my design minutely to describe places. The Emperor is of a mean stature and dark complexion, thin-visaged, his hair black, his under­lip thick and hanging down a little, much like his effigies on his coin.Plants observed about Vi­enna. As for plants we found heer­about, Onobrychis spicata flore purpureo, Psyllium vul­gare; Kalispinosum, at this distance from the Sea. Scabiosa foliis dissectis, flore albo vel [...] Clus. Dorycnio congener in great plenty. Marrubium album angustifolium peregrinum C. B. as it seemed to me. In the Island of Danubius near Vienna, Aristolochia Cle­matitis & Solanum vesicarium sive Alkekengi plenti­fully.

We hired a coach for Venice and began our journey thitherward,Sept. 24. and this night lodged at a great Vil­lage called Trayskerk four miles distant from Vienna: by the way-side we found store of Absinthium Austri­acum [...]enuifolium Clus.

At four miles end we came to Neustat (Neapolis Austriaca they call it) well walled and trencht about,25. Neustat. of a square figure, mean bigness, handsomly built, [Page 142] having streight streets and a fair square market-place. At three of the corners are mounts or bastions, and at the fourth a Castle. In the layes near this town I first found Asperula caerulea. Two miles beyond Neustat we began to leave the open countrey and to come among hills. We lodged this night at a village called Gluknitz four miles distant from Neustat. The houses in these villages are for the most part covered with shingles of wood: the hills clothed with woods of Pine.

After two miles riding we came to a village cal­led Schadwyen or Shadwin, 26. seated between the mountains and enclosed with a gate at each end. Heer we alighted and our Coachman hired ten oxen (which stood there ready for that purpose) to draw his Coach up a steep ascent to the top of the hills which part Austria and Stiria. On the sides and top of this hill we found these plants,Plants found on the hills at Shad­win. Libanotis Theophrasti minor Park. Cyclamen autumnale of two sorts. Tussilago Alpina folio rotundo. A sort of small Trachelium that I have not elsewhere seen. A small sort of Muscus clavatus, with leaves like Juniper. Larix abundantly. Lysimachia lutea in alis) foliorum florens. A kind of Glaux with a rough cod. Gen­tiana folio Asclepiadis abundantly, and many others that we had before met with. In this journey we also found Muscus denticulatus major in the shady lanes in many places: and in watery and springy places Alsine muscosa J. B. further on we came to a little wall'd place near the river Muercz, called Mert­zuschlag. Heerabout are many mills; and sithes and sickles made heer; then we passed through a village called Langenwang, where stands a castle on a hill: after that another called Kriegla, where we crost the river. This afternoon we passed through a pleasant valley among woody mountains, and at night took up our loding at Kimberg a large village six long miles distant from Glocknitz.

[Page 143] We travelled along the same valley,27. and passed through a great village called Kapsuberg; besides many other villages, castles and Gentlemens houses on the sides of the hills, which we rode near to; and at three miles end came to Pruck an der Mure, Pruck an der Mure. i. e. Bons Muroe a fair town for this Countrey, and walled about, having a large market-place with a fountain in it. Proaeding on in the same valley some two leagues further,Lewben. we passed Lewben, a very neat, pleasant and well-built walled town, better than we expected to have found any in this moun­tainous Countrey. It hath a fair market-place with fountains. And we observed much Iron lying in the streets, which is heer made, and wherewith the inhabitants drive a great trade. Heer we crossed the Mura twice, and soon after we were past Lew­ben we rode over a hill, and following the course of the said river among the mountains, at evening we came to a village called S. Michael, where, we lod­ged. We saw in these parts many men and women with large swellings under their chins or on their throats, called in Latin or rather in Greec, Broncho­celt, and by some in English, Bavarian, P [...]kes. Some of them were single, others double and treble. This is a disease which these Alpine Nations have of old been subject to Quis tumidum guttur miretur in Al­ [...]plbvs? Yet among the Grisons, who live on the highest parts of the Alps, I do not remember to have seen any of these [...]I dare say there are not half so many thereabouts as in these Countries. What should be the Cause of this evil, whether the drink­ing of Snow-water, or water infected with the vi­ [...]ose steams and particles of Mercury, or other mi­nerals and metals, wherewith in all probability those mountains abound, is no easie matter to determin. For on the one hand, in some mountainous coun­tries, where the snow lies as long as it doth-heer, and consequently their waters are little else then [Page 144] snow dissolved, we shall find very few infected with this disease: and on the other hand, as few in Hun­gary, Transylvania and other countries abounding with mercury and other minerals. We must there­fore suspend, till some ingenious Physician of these Countries, by long and diligent observing what causes or occasions these Tumours, and likewise what prevents and cures them, instructs us bet­ter.

We also observed in these Countries more Idiots and delirous persons than any where else; which we imputed sometime to the snow-water, sometime to the inordinate eating of Cabbage, of which in all the market-towns we saw monstrous heaps lying to be sold. But upon further consideration I think with Palmarius, it ought rather to be attributed to the mineral steams that infect their waters, espe­cially Mercurial. For we see the vapour of Quick­silver doth principally affect the brain and nervose parts, begetting palsies and deliriums in Painters, Gilders. Miners and those that are much conversant about it.

We travelled on by the river Mures side to Knittle­field, 28. Knittle­field. a walled town three miles from S. Michael, and then proceeding along the same valley, we passed by some Noblemens houses and castles, and lodged at a village upon the Mure called S. Georgio, four miles from Knittefield.

We travelled on in the same valley by the river Mure till we came to Newmarkt, 29. New­markt. a little walled place, four miles from S. Georgio. Then we fol­lowed the course of another little river which runs into the Dravus about Volckmarck, in a narrow val­ley between high hills, and a mile from Newmarkt we came to a considerable wall'd town called Frei­sach, Freisach in which are four cloisters. A mile further we came to Heirt in Carinthia where we lay this night.

[Page 145] We rode rocky ways through valleys to S. Veit or Vit, a wall'd town of some note,30. S. Vit. three miles di­stant from Heirt. The Emperor hath a Mint-house for coining money heer. Proceeding on three miles further we arrived at Vilkircken, which had been a market-Town of note, but about three years since a lamentable Fire burnt it down to the ground.

We rode very rugged way among the mountains and rocks,Octob. 1. passing the whole length of a Lake called Oostsukersey, and at the further end of it observed a strong castle seated on a high hill belonging to the Earl of Dietrichstein, a Prince of the Empire,Dietrich­stein. who coins money. Then we came down into a pleasant valley, and so over the river Dravus. which is heer navigable, and runs by the walls of Villach, Villach. a well­built town and one of the chief of this Countrey, three miles distant from Vilkerck. A good distance from Villach we passed the Guile, a considerable river falling into the Dravus; and had very rocky way among high mountains till we came to Orlesteina, a village where we lodged.

We travelled among high mountains very bad way to a village called Klein Tarvis two miles,2. and proceeding on still among the mountains we came to the river Timent, which runs into the Adriatic Sea;Pontieba. and lodged this night at Pontieba, the last town we passed in the Emperors countrey, part of it is sub­ject to the Emperor called Pontieba Imperiale, and part to the Venetians, called Pontieba Veneta, where we took a bill of health for Venice. Between Klein Tarvis and Pontieba, we saw a herd of Goats fol­lowing the Goat-herd like so many dogs: in other places we have seen sheep in that manner following their shepherd, which no doubt was usual in Judaea; for our Saviour John 10. 4. comparing himself to a shepherd and his disciples and servants to sheep, saith, And he goeth before his sheep, and they follow him, for [Page 146] Which would have seemed strange to the hearers had the shepherds been wont only to drive their sheep, as with us they do.

We past over the river Timent by a bridge that parts Carinthia from Friuli. 3. About a German mile off we came to a little fort in a village called Clausen, where are two draw-bridges, which we were not permitted to pass, till we had delivered our bill of health. Hence we travelled along by the river, and observed tim­ber-trees floted down the stream, and when the rocks stopped them, men with hooks put them off and directed them into the force of the current. This is the manner all over the Alps and other high mountains, they fell trees and get them to any little current of water and expect a good shot of rain, and then flote them down to the greater rivers. This day we passed Vensonga, Vensongo. Hospita­letto. a pretty little wall'd town, and lodged at Hospitaletto a large village, where we got quit of the mountains, and came into the plain Countrey of Friuli.

We passed by Limonia a wall'd town situate on the rising of a hill at the foot of the mountains,4. Limonia. S. Dani­ele. Some miles further we passed S. Danicle; then we forded the river Timent in several places. The river heerabouts in a time of rain or when the snow melts on the mountains, spreads itself to a very great breadth, as appears by the empty chanel. Soon af­ter we had passed the river, we ascended a cliff and entred the walls of a little town called Spilimberg, where were rows or cloisters on each side the street under the houses,Spilim­berg. which we after found in many of the towns of Lombardy; ten Italian miles further ri­ding brought us to S. Avogio, a village where we rested this night.

We rode along the plains and at ten miles end came to Saribe a walled town,5. Saribe. where the river Li­venza [Page 147] divides itself and encompasseth the wall. From hence we drove on about two Dutoh miles and lodged at Conegliano, Conegli­ano. a wall'd Town seated on the ridge of a hill a place of good account, as is also Saribe.

All the way we travelled in Italy hitherto we had little other bread than what was made of Sorghum, a grain the blade whereof arises to seven or eight foot highth and is as great as ones finger, bearing a large panicle on the top, the berry or seed being bigger than that of wheat, and of a dusky co­lour.

We rode a Dutch mile and then ferried over the river Anaxus or Piave, 6. and at ten Italiam miles further come to Treaviso a large Town,Treviso. the head of a Pro­vince called Marea Trevisana, an important place for strength, but too near and too obnoxious to Ve­nice to be rich. From Treviso we rode through a very fertil and well cultivated countrey to Mestre, a little Town by the Lagnne,(so they call the Flats about Venice, which are all covered with water when the Tide is in) where we took boat for Ve­nice.

Upon the mountains we passed over this voy­age, we found a great number of plants we had not before met with, as Quinquifolium alb [...]m majus cau­lesc [...] C. B. Quinquefolium album majus alterum C. B. Teucrium Alpinum Cisti flore, Epimcdium vilgae; Linaria purpurea parva J. B. And not far from Pon­tieba on Italy side upon the rocks, Ledum Alpinum hirsutum C. B. Ledum Alpinum hirsutum minus, An Cistus Austriacus myrtifolius? Auricula ursi [...] Sedum serra tum alterum foliis longis angustis; Sedum Alpinum mi­nimum, foliis cinereis, flore candido J. B. Siler montanum and many others. Helleborus niger verus plentifully all over the highest mountains. Scabiosa argentea an­gustifolia, in the chanels of the torrents in Friuli: and Galega by the rivers and ditches every where in Italy. [Page 148] In Marea Trevisana, some part of Friuli, and the greatest part of Lombardy, we observed the Corn-fields to be so thick set with rows of trees, that if a man from an hill or high tower should look down upon the Countrey at a distance, he would take it to be a Wood. Against every Tree is planted a Vine, which runs up the tree, and the branches of the neighbour-vines they draw from tree to tree and tie together: So that their Corn-fields are also Woods and Vine-yards, the same land sufficing for all these productions, and not being exhausted with so much spending (as one would be apt to imagine) by reason of the depth and richness of its soil. Neither in this hot Countrey doth the Corn receive any preju­dice from the shade or dropping of the Trees, (which in our colder Climate would quite marr it) but rather advantage, there falling little rain in Summer-time, and the Trees keeping off the scorching Sun-beams, which else might dry up and wither it; the heat notwithstanding sufficing to bring the Grain to perfect maturity. Whereas with us all the Sun we can give it is little enough, and the very grass which grows under the trees is sowr and crude: for that usually we have too little heat for our moisture, and they too much. This part of Italy hath been deservedly celebrated for fertility, and may justly in my opinion be stiled the Garden of Europe.