CHAP. I. Of the several sorts of Vines, and what Grapes do best accommo­date with our Climate in England.

UPon long, and dili­gent observation of the Species; I do chiefly recom­mend these following, to be the most proper and natural for the Curious in our Coun­try to exercise their Industries [Page 2]upon, as from whence they may promise themselves a re­compence worthy of their ex­pectations.

1. The small Black grape, by some call'd the Cluster-grape, a precoce and early ripe fruit.

2. The white Muscadine ear­ly ripe also, and a well known grape.

3. The Parsly-grape, so deno­minated from the shape and indentures of the leafe; it bears somewhat a smaller rai­sin or berrie, but it is of a briske and delicious taste, mature betimes.

4. The Muscadella a white [Page 3] grape, not so big as the Musca­dine though as soon ripe.

5. The Frontiniaq, both white and red.

6. A new white Grape, ripe before the Muscadins, which I found in His Majesties Garden in St. James's, with a red wood and a dark green leafe: it ri­pens as soon in standard as a­gainst some Walls, and is a clo­ser bunch than the Muscadine. These are the kinds which I prefer before any other for the storing of a Vineyard, al­though there are several other sorts, which I pass by, as not so applicable to our designe, [Page 4]though very worthy of the Curious, and those who affect variety, because they will re­quire the artificial reflection and assistance of walls to bring them to maturity.

CHAP. II. Of the Soile, and Situation of a Vineyard in England.

LEt election be made of a light sandy ground, if it be a little strong upon the surface it is not to be rejected: and for its situa­tion, I would choose that side or declivity of an hill lying to the South, or South-west, which if favor'd with other hills somwhat higher, or woods on the North and East, would be so much the better for the breaking the severitie of those pinching quarters: This light [Page 6]soile having a bottom of Chalk or gravell, under a surface of two foot in depth, and free from Springs, cannot be too hot, or dry; provided it be not addicted to health; for commonly nothing grows kindly where that is apt to o're spread; but if given to brambles, it is a promising sign [...] and infinitely to be pre­ferr'd before the other; for most confident I am, (nor do I speak it upon conjecture only) that there is no Plant whatsoever so connatural to the Vine for soile and situati­on as this repent, and humble [Page 7]shrub: Those who shall please to take notice of the places in which brambles most flourish; which are for the most part in the driest banks, hilly, stony and hot places; will easily infer how much they resemble the Vine in this particular: True it is, they will also come up in wettish and moist places also; but it is in the other where they grow large and strong, bear goodly berries and in most plenty; Not that I would hereby advise any to plant their Vines amongst the bram­bles; but those places well [Page 8]grubb'd and trenched, are not to be rejected, because they commonly thrive in such grounds as are apt for Vines, and where I would make choice of a spot to plant a Vineyard in.

That I have insisted on this remark, and of having a Chal­ky or Gravelly bottom, is from much experience, having ne­ver found, but that in such hard Stony or Chalky ground (provided it were not loamy) Vines do exceedingly flourish; especially if the land have layne a good while in repose, and not of many years ex­hausted [Page 9]hausted by the plow, where the green swarth covers those gentle risings amongst the downes, not too much expos'd to the rudeness of the wea­ther. Nor are Gentlemen to be therefore deterr'd, because this late age has neglected the Planting of Vineyards, that therefore it is to no purpose now to begin; since the dis­couragement has only pro­ceeded from their misinfor­mation on this material arti­cle of the choyce of soile and situation, whilest giving ear to our forraign Gardners coming here into England, they tooke [Page 10]up those rules which they saw to be most practis'd in Countries of so little affinity with ours, and without ha­ving that due consideration of the Climat, which is so necessa­ry and behoveful to Plantati­ons of this nature: Hence they for the most part, made continual choice of our best and richest land, without re­gard of other circumstances; not considering that the deepness and fatness of the Earth, contributes more to the luxury of the branches, amplitude of leaves and pre­cipitation of the roots than [Page 11]to the just and natural stature of the stem, plenty, and excel­lency of the fruit, for which alone these Plantations are desirable. In sandy or loamy land Vines indeed grow more abundantly, than where the sand, gravel, or chalk are in­gredients, whose surface of mould is not so profound, a foot and half being sufficient; but this rock of chalk and gra­vel, does in the interim hin­der the root from going too deep, forceing it to spread the more towards the top, by which meanes the tender and fiberous rootes receive the [Page 12]natural, sweet and benigne showers, dews, and influen­ces, which impart both life and pregnancy to these noble Plantations: By this they re­ceive the cherishing warmeth of the Sun, impregnated with a certaine volatile salt, which produced near the surface of the Earth only, is drunk in by the delicat pores and aper­tures of the latent rootes whilest the deeper buried, de­priv'd of these prolifical ad­vantages, grow only fertil it watery and insipid leaves o [...] branches without fruit; th [...] mould or matrix in which [Page 13]they lie, being altogether flug­ish and unactive for want of heat and the prolific embraces of the Sun. Hence it is we find so many Vines, though plenti­ful of branches, so thin of joynts, and those even of the same kind, planted in better ground, as thick of knots as a mans finger is of joynts, from whence those shootes are produc'd which our Eng­lish Vigneron should preserve at pruning time to set his fruit, and expect his Vintage from.

But to return to the situati­on againe. Though Land should be so qualified as we [Page 14]have describ'd it for the soile; yet if it have not also that de­clivity and aspect we menti­oned, it cannot be so fit for our purpose: for first, hills are not so subject to the morning foggs and infectious mists as lower grounds are; besides, flat lands do not so soone en­joy the benefit of the rising Sun, nor does it stay so long upon them in the evening by some hours in the day; for since this solar and generous Plant does above all things af­fect to be dry, especially, after the fruit begins to be formed and approch to its maturity [Page 15]there is nothing more noxi­ous to it, then at that season, to be infested with the cold and heavy damps of these foggs; and it is in that, as much as in any other thing, where­in other more Southern tracts have the advantage of us, that these enemies are dispersed and scatter'd sooner than with us; and which threfore we must strive to encounter by the advantages we have hitherto neglected; but which we may surmount by making choice of a more lofty situati­on.

CHAP. III. How to prepare the ground for the Plantation.

I Have already wish'd for a turfy surface, and which has not been broken up, or sowed of a long time, and have alledged my reasons for it: But now in July, when the Earth is very dry and combus­tible, plow up the swarth, and when 'tis very crusty, dispose the turfes in small heapes, burn, and spread the ashes o­ver the land, to be trenched in December or the January fol­lowing. I advise you to lay [Page 17]your dried materials but in little heaps, from an observa­tion which I have made in Wilt-shire, and particularly the Downes of Salisbury-plaine, that where they congest too much together, the excessive fire and heat (which they require to reduce them to ashes) over burnes the earth, to the great prejudice of those salts and spirits which a more moderate fire would preserve from evo­lition and flying away; an Instance of this we have in the Charring of Wood for Coale, the small dust whereof is a powerful ingredient to the [Page 18]improving of the roots of Trees, moderately made use of.

The ground thus prepar'd; when you begin to trench, contrive your ranges so, as they may run thwart your hill, that is, let the ridges pass from East to West; my reason is, because the Vines standing thus in ranks; the rising and setting of the Sun will by this meanes pass through the intervals, which it would not do in the common posture of North and South; for the Sun being low at its first and last appearance a­bove the Horison (and at which [Page 19]time by reason of our foggs and mists, we chiefly stand in need of his assistance) those rows which pass from North and South will shade one the other, and so hinder this ma­terial effect. If it be objected that Vines being so planted, lose that at Noon, which they gaine in the Morning and E­vening; I reply, that the Sun at the season of ripening, is high enough for rowes of Vines of three foot distance, to shine with, and dart its beams even over the very Plants without the least intercepti­on: whereas upon its rising [Page 20]or setting, it would be almost totally Ecclipsed by the Colla­teral posture of the opposite ranges.

CHAP. IV. How to Plant the Sets.

THe Ground in this or­der, prepare a measure of three-foot, and by a line strain'd, dig the Earth a foot deep or the single spit, cleansing the Trench, and shouling up the crumbs that the bottom be cleane, and the edges sharp, which you must guide by your measure, that so all the trenches may be of an equal size. This done, fit your Plants, Layers, or Rootes so prun'd both roots and bran­ches, that you leave not a­above [Page 22] two or three eyes of the young wood upon them. Then Plant them in the bottome of your Trenches, so as the rootes may lie Cross them, and som­what sloaping on a strait line as near as may be guess'd. In this posture, cover them three or four inches with the mould; and order it so, as the upper part of your plant be two or three inches lower than the ground, that when the ridges come to be levell'd, the top of your sets may be even with the area. Thus pro­ceed to plant them at the di­stance of two foot one from [Page 23]the other, that so the ranges may have a yard interval be­tween. This done, take long dung or litter, and strow it in the Trenches, of a reasonable thickness to cover the Earth, and preserve the roots from those dry and peircing winds which would otherwise infi­nitely prejudice them; this will likewise maintain them cold and fresh in Summer, till they have struck and taken hold of their Stations: After this they will need no more for the present, but that you diligently haw, and cleanse them from weeds, before they [Page 24]come to seede; and in this labour of hawing, work a little of the sides of your ridges with your instrument to­wards the roots of your new­ly planted Vines, to comfort and establish them. This Di­agram refers to the order and distance of planting the sets.

CHAP. V. How to dress, Prune, and Go­vern the Plantation.

THe first pruning of the new set Vineyard shall not begin before the January after, and then cut, off all the shootes as near as you can possibly, sparing only the strongest and most vigorous to each roote, which you should leave with two eyes of young wood; and so let them rest till May the second year after planting, and then be sure to clear the roots of all collateral suckers which do [Page 26]but rob, and exhaust your sets; and leave none but what break out of those two or three eyes of the young wood above mention'd, continuing your care to suppress the weeds, and in your hawing to cherish the roots of your plants with some of your ridg­earth as you were taught in the former Chapter. And thus you shall also govern your Vineyard the third year, cutting off all the shoots very close in the same Moneth, and sparing only the stoutest which is next the ground; yet so, as you leave him not above [Page 27]three or four eyes. This done dig all your Vineyard and lay it very level; but with great care that in the work you do not cut or wound any of the maine roots with your spade; as for the younger roots, it is not so material, for they will grow but the thicker. It is in this third year that you may peradventure enjoy some fruit of your labour, which if an­swerable to your hopes, will admonish you to provide for props, which must be made of Hazel, Ash, or Oake, about four foot in length, of the thick­ness of a broom-stick, which [Page 28]being conveniently apply'd to the North side of your plant, you shall in May (rubbing off all the theives which spring from the Roots of the plant, and leaving only such as come from the stem and like to bear fruit) bind up the shoots of those three Eyes which you were order'd to leave, as the most probable to be bearers that year, as in June you will discover. When the fruit is of the size of birding shot, break off the branches with your hand at the second joynt above the fruit; and tye the rest to the prop: I say, you [Page 29]must breake, not cut your Vines, because wounds made now with a knife or sharper instru­ment, are not so apt to heale; and therefore the season for this work is in the very heat of the day when they are apt for consolidation, without pre­judice to the fruit. But it is not regularly till the fourth year that you can expect any store of fruit; when govern­ing your Vineyard as before you are directed, fail not of a due provision of props suffici­ent for your whole plantati­on.

CHAP. VI. How to order, and cultivate the Vineyard after the first four years 'till it needs renewing.

THe following years after the first bearing, you will likely have three or four shoots to every Plant. In January therefore, or December, prune all away save the stron­gest, which you may leave for a standard about four or five foot high, cutting the rest very close to the body of the Mo­ther-plant; (I mean such as are small and trifling shoots) re­serving such as you find about [Page 31]the bigness of an handsome reed, to which you shall leave two or three eyes next the ground. Then apply a prop to every of your Vines, and tye to them the Master shoots which you were order'd to leave four foot high, with some tender Oziers about one foot from the Earth, bending the top of these shoots to the next prop, about two foot from the ground, that so your ranks may stand in forme of Arches, whilest the eyes that you spa­red now in dressing, shall the May following, be bound to the props for the next years [Page 32]bearing, to the great increase of your fruit: Then in May, or the begining of June (when the little raisins are of the big­ness before mentioned) stop their second joynt above the fruit as you were there taught, but be careful to leave the strongest shoot to be the stan­dard plant of the year ensuing.

In August, when the fruit begins to turn and ripen, break off such shoots as you shall find too thick upon those you prun'd in May; but this worke you must do with dis­cretion, and only so as to le [...] in the Sun for the ripning of [Page 33]the over shadowed Clusters, which you ought to leave skreen'd with some of the fo­liage, as well to preserve your fruit from the scorching of the Sun, by day, as the dews which fall in the night, to both whose invasions it is obnoxious.

And now observe, that the standards you last ty'd to the props at a foot-high, and whose tops were bent to be next, will the following year be grown Old wood: In the first Pruning season therefore, or January after, remember to cut them close to the ground, [Page 34]supplying the places with the strongest shoot of your young wood, which you left four foot high for the purpose, and which you must order as you have been taught the year be­fore; pruning the restat the ve­ry Earth, and leaving two eyes to each of the strongest shootes as is there rehersed: And now give your Vineyard an ordinary digging with the same care of the master-roots, and till the season of this worke, you may permit your props to stand.

We the more insist upon an early pruning, to hinder their bleeding; though some are of [Page 35]opinion, that this superfluity of Vines, preserving the young and forward shoots the back­warder in April, prevents the blasts of May; for this cause many will not cut their plants till March, but they spend too much of their Vigour in these late amputations, and are as much in danger of blasting for want of competent strength to support the tender shoots; whereas prun'd in November or the following moneth, they never bleed, but being cut be­fore the rising of the sap, their wounds become hard and dry; and the spirits of the Plant [Page 36]kept in, makes them break out the more vigorously at the eyes, furnishing the bran­ches with proud and turgid buds.

CHAP. VII. How, and when to manure your Vineyard with Compost.

WHen through often stirring, you find your Vineyard poore, (which the weakness of your crop will soon discover) Prune your Vines as you are instruct­ed; and spread good rotten dung mixt with lime, over the whole ground; let this lye a full winter, that the vertue of it may be wash'd into the Earth, and this way of Stercoration is infinitly to be prefer'd before the digging, and mingling it [Page 38]with your mould: But if you will have it in prefection, lay your materials in a large heape, in some convenient place near your Vineyard: A layer of fresh and natural Earth taken from the Surface, and another of dung a pretty deale thicker; then a layer of Earth again, and so successively, mingling a load of lime to eve­ry ten loads of dung, will make an admirable Compost for the purpose; but your Ma­gazine will require the matu­rity of two or three years, and to b [...] cover'd with the former qualified Earth, and somewhat [Page 39]shaded, so as neither the Sun too much draw from it, nor the violent raines too much dilute it.

With this Composition, after you have (as we advis'd) prund your Vines (for which the moneths of January and Febru­ary may be allowed) dung your whole Vineyard; About thirty Loads I suppose may well dress an Aker; but lay, and spread it equally, and then you may turne it in, with a slight digging, but not too deep; and shall in a short time find it as light and tract­able as the freshest Farth, [Page 40]which property we ascribe to the Lime. When this is done, re-establish your props, and with your foot tread the Earth close to the roots, to defend their fibers from the dry winds of March, which will even pe­netrate the looser mould; but this worke should be per­form'd in a dry, not in a wet season; lest the Earth bind too fast, and for other obvious reasons.

And thus I have shew'd how Vineyards in England may be Planted, govern'd, and perpe­tuated with undoubted suc­cess, omitting theless material [Page 41] curiosities to the larger Volumes, and those who have more lea­sure (I fear) than skill.