The whole Body of COOKERY DISSECTED.
BOOK I.
How to pickle Cowcumbers.
TAke your smallest Cowcumbers, or Gerkines, after Bartholmew-tyde, dip a cloth in beer, and rub them clean from the dirt, then put a laying of Bay and Dill leafes in the bottom of your Firkin or Pot, and a quantity of whole Pepper, two or three blades of Mace, and as many Cloves; then place a laying of Cowcumbers thereon; so continue with your said in gredients till your Pot or Firkin be full; then make a Liquor with fair water, and good store of Dill to make it strong, with so much salt as will bear an egg; you may infuse the Dill, or you may boyl it, but let it be cold, then put it into your Cowcumbers; let this pickle continue to them almost a fortnight, then pour part away, and fill it up with white wine Vinegar, so shall your Cowcumbers be green and crisp, and not too sour.
How to pickle Mushroms.
TAke a bushell of Mushroms, blanch them over the crown, barb them beneath; if they are new, they look as red as a Cherry; if old, black; this being done, throw them into a pan of boyling water, then take them forth and let them drain; when they are cold, put them up into your Pot or Glass, put thereto Cloves, Mace, Ginger, Nutmeggs, whole Pepper; then take white-wine, a little Vinegar, with a little quantity of salt, so pour the Liquor into your Mushroms, and stop them close for your use all the year.
To pickle the tops of Elder.
BReak the tops of your young sprouts of Elder, in March or April, having a quantity thereof broke in pieces six inches long; boyl them in water half a dozen walms, then pour them out into your Sive or Collinder, and let them drain; then prepare a pickle of wine or beer; put thereto a little salt, and a little bruised Pepper; so put them into the said pickle, and stop them. A good sallet.
To pickle Elder-buds in March, before the tree leaves.
HAving gathered what quantity you please before they are full blown, and put them into wine-vinegar, they are a good sallet. If in case they are full blown, as in June, they serve to make strong Elder-vinegar; and themselves no sallet: This Vinegar is good to make sauce for divers sorts of meat.
To pickle Clove-Gilly-flowers.
WHen you have picked a good quantity of Gilly-flowers. mingle half white-wine and half Vinegar together, with so much white sugar as will make them sweet and sharp, and so put your Gilly-flowers in, with a few Cloves, which is a good sallet, and the liquor thereof will serve for Lears for sweet and sharp boyled meats, or baked meats.
To pickle Pursland stalks.
WHen they are washed, and cut in pieces six inches long, boyl them with water and salt, a dozen walms; when they are taken up, drained, and cold, let your pickle be stale beer, and wine-vinegar; add [Page 3] a handful of salt thereunto, and put them up into your vessel, and stop them up close, and they will keep to the Spring following.
To pickle Artichokes.
TAke your Artichokes before they are over-grown, or too full of strings, and when they are pared round, that nothing is left but the bottom, boyl them till they be indifferent tender, but not full boyled, take them up, let them be cold, then take good stale-beer, and white-wine, with a great quantity of whole Pepper, so put them up into a barrel, with a small quantity of salt, keep them close, and they will not be sour; it will serve for baked meats, and boyled meats, all the Winter.
To pickle the tops of Turnips.
TAke the tops of young Turnips, cut off the superfluous branches, or leaves, when your water boyles put them in, and let them boyl till they are indifferent tender; then take them out, and let them drain, and put them into a pickle of white-wine Vinegar and salt.
The same manner may you pickle the sprouts of Cabbage-stocks, but take a care you do not over-boyl them.
To pickle green Figgs.
TAke your green Figgs about August, cut them in halves, and boyl them up in Vinegar, a little quantity of Sugar, large Mace and Cloves, so put them up into your Pot or Glass in the same liquor; they will serve to Garnish your boyled meats, or Friggeses, in the Winter.
To pickle Barbaries red.
WHen your Barbaries are picked from the leaves in clusters, about Michaelmas, or when they are ripe, let your water boyl, and give them half a dozen walms; let your pickle be of white-wine and Vinegar, not too sharp, so put them up for your use.
To pickle Sampier green.
TAke your Sampier fresh from the Rock, and pickle it in water and salt; when you have occasion to use thereof, take what quantity [Page 4] you please, and throw it into boyling water; although before it had lost its colour, six or seven walms will make it green; drain it, cool it, and put it into a pickle of Vinegar for your present use; otherwise you may first boyl it in good store of water and salt, and keep it in the same liquor; but the first way is the best.
To pickle stalks of Thessell or Sherdowns.
IN March or April, there is Thesell runs up like an Artichoke; the root thereof is like to the bottom of an Artichoke; both root and stalk being peeled, and boyled in water and salt, you may pickle them in white-wine; it will serve either for baked, or boyled meats, or else to be ordered and sent to the table as Artichokes.
To pickle Reddish tops.
YOu must do with this, as you do your Turnips, or sprouts of Cabbage; it will serve for a hot sallet.
To pickle Taragon.
YOur Taragon being stripped from the stalk, put it into your Glass or Vessel, and let your pickle be half white-wine, half Vinegar, so keep it for your use.
To pickle Cowslips.
THey are only to be pickled with Vinegar and Sugar.
To pickle Fennell or Dill.
LET your water boyl, then having your young Fennell tyed up in bunches, half a dozen walms will be enough, drain it, and let your pickle be Vinegar.
To pickle Red Cabbage.
TAke your close-leav'd Red-Cabbage, and cut it in quarters, and when your liquor boyls, give it a dozen walms, and pickle it in Claret-wine Vinegar; you may put into it your Beet-roots boyled, and your Turnips half-boyled; it will all serve both for garnishing and sallet; for your Turnips thereby shall be dyed into a crimson colour, a handsom garnishing to the eye.
To pickle Burdock-Roots.
YOur Burdock-Roots being scraped and half-boyled, pickle them with half white-wine, half Vinegar, with a little Pepper and Salt, and when you will make use of them, slice them thin.
To pickle Lemmon and Orange Pill.
THey being boyled with Vinegar and Sugar, put them up into the same pickle; you must observe to cut them in small long thongs, the length of half the Pill of your Lemmon being pared; it is an handsom savoury Winter-sallet; these ought to be fi [...]st boyled in water, before you boyl them in Sugar.
To pickle Ashen Keyes.
BOyl your Ashen Keyes in water, and let the pickle be Vinegar.
To pickle curled Endive.
YOu must give your Endive a scald in a walm of boyling water, and pickle it with half white-wine and half Vinegar.
To pickle Charnell.
YOu must give your Charnell two or three walms in boyling water; the pickle must be only with Vinegar.
To pickle Quinces.
TAke your fair Quinces, and core them with your boring irons or scoop; take the worst of your Quinces, and cut them to pieces, and boyl your core or pieces in your pan of liquor, so that you make the liquor strong, then boyl your Quinces prepared to pickle, till they may be supposed a quarter boyled, then strain out your liquor with your hair-sieve, or strainer, and put a small quantity of salt, add thereto some strong beer, and put up your Quinces whole in your Vessel or Pot, and pour in some of the same liquor, and stop them close up.
To pickle Bramble-Fruit.
IT is a long berry, but full of stones, some call them Services, or Hipps: Your pickle is beer-vinegar, and a little Sugar; you must give them three or four walms; but if they are full ripe, you are to pickle them raw as they are.
To pickle Broom-buds.
PUt your Broom-buds into little Linnen Baggs, tye them up close, make a pickle of Bay-salt and water, being boyled together, so that it will bear an egg; when it is cold, put it into your Vessel or Pot, to your baggs of Broom-buds, keep it close stopt, and let it lye until it looks black, shift it again once or twice, until it change to a bright or green colour, afterwards take it out, and boyl it, as your occasion calls for, and pickle it in Vinegar. It will keep a moneth or two.
To pickle Bog-berries.
BOyl up some Vinegar and Sugar together, and pour it in, being hot, into your Pot or Vessel where your Bog-berries are: And they will serve to garnish your dishes all the Winter; you may do the like to pickle Hogg-haws; only boyl them up if they are not ripe.
To pickle Grapes.
LET not your Grapes be fully ripe; their pickle is white-wine and a little Sugar.
To pickle Red and White Currans.
TAke Vinegar and white-wine, with so much Sugar as will make it pretty sweet, then take your Red or White Currans, being not fully ripe, and give them one walm, so cover them over with the said pickle, keeping them alwayes under liquor.
To pickle Elder, or many other budds of trees in the Spring, that useth to serve for Spring-sallets.
GIve them one or two walms with Vinegar, Salt, whole Pepper, long Mace, and a Lemmon-Pill cut in pieces, then drain them, and let the Buds and the Liquor cool severally; afterwards put them in a Pot, and cover them with your pickle.
To pickle Cabbage-stalks.
ABout Michaelmas you may take your Cabbage-stalks, an handful or more from the Cabbage, or so far as the pith is good; shave off the out-side, and cut them in quarters, half boyl them in water and salt, then cut the pith from the outward pill, and pickle it in white-wine, a little stale beer, bruised Pepper, large Mace, a few Fennel-seeds and salt; you may slice out this with your pickled sallets.
To pickle Shampinnions.
YOu must give them two or three walms; and pikle them in white-wine Vinegar, bruised Pepper, Salt, with a little large Mace
To pickle Sleep-at-noon.
LEt your water boyl with a little salt, throw it in, and let it have three or four walms, put it forth into a Cullender; when it is cold, pickle it in white-wine & Vinegar, with a little Pepper and large Mace.
To pickle the stalks of March-Mallows.
IN the latter end of March, and in April, your stalks will be as big as a childs finger, you may gather of them the cuantity of a bushel more or less, break them in lengths, about five or six inches, and pill off the outward peel, and when your pan boyls with water and an handful of salt, put them in, and let them have five or six walms, then take them up with your Scummer, and lay them a draining until they are cold, and make your pickle with stale beer, some Vinegar, gross Pepper, and an handful of salt, when they are pilled as aforesaid, you may take an handful of them, and eaven them at the ends, and cut them as round as you can, about the bigness of a Pease; thus do until you have cut a good dish of them, then lay on a skillet of water, and let it boyl with some beaten Pepper tyed in a ragg; put them in, and let them boyl quick, (as you do pease) when they are enough, put them into a Cullender, let the water drain from them, put them in a dish with sweet butter, and toss them up together; dish them after the manner of pease, with Pepper and Salt on the dish brims: And they differ very little in their taste from Pease, therefore some call them March Pease.
To pickle Alexander-Buds.
TAke Alexander-Buds before they begin to run to seed, take off their loose leaves and top, so that the bud may be firm, cut part of the root to it, let them be half-boyled in water and salt, then put them from the liquor, and when they are cold, pickle them with Vinegar, salt, and a little stale beer; when you dish them up, you must slit them in the middle.
To pickle Mallagatoons.
YOu must take them before they are ripe, so that with a knife you may split them through the stone, then take half so much Sugar as they weigh, and put it in as much water as will boyl them up, and when your Sugar and water boyls well, scum it, and put in your Mallagatoons with their skin-side downward, and let them simber, but not boyl up; after this manner you may do Peaches and Apricocks, being not full ripe, or Apples in halves; pickle them in the said pickle as you boyl them; this will serve for the garnishing of sallets.
In these varieties of pickles, you have matter sufficient to make Grand-sallets for the Winter, as also for the Summer, being many times desired, for many of them are very wholsom and Cordial for the stomack.
BOOK II.
How to Sowce, Pickle and Coller all manner of Flesh.
To Coller and Sowce Brawn.
YOur Bawn being scalded and boned, of each side you may make three handsom Collers, the neck Coller, the sheald Coller, and so the side or flank Coller; if your Brawn be very fat, you may make also the gammon Coller behind; otherwise boyl it and Sowce it; this being watered two dayes, shifted three or four times a day and still kept scraped, then wash it out, and scrouse out the blood, and dry it with clothes; when it is very dry, sprinkle on salt; so begin at the belly, and wind it up into Collers; but in case you can, stoe more flesh in the flank, or in the Coller; you may cut it out of other places [Page 9] where there is too much, or from the Gammon; this being bound up, as you will bind up a trunk, with all the strength that can be obtained, put it in your Furnace or Copper; when it boyls, scum it; you must be careful it be kept full of liquor, and continually scummed, for the space of six hours, then try it with a wheat-straw if it be very tender, cool your Boyler by taking away your fire, and filling of it constantly with cold water; so shall your Brawn be white; but if it stands, or settles in its liquor, it will be black; then take up your Brawn, and set it up on one end, on a board; your Sowce-drink ought to be beer brewed on purpose; but if it be of the house beer, then boyl a pan of water, throw therein a peck of wheaten bran, and let it boyl, strain it through a hair sieve, and throw in two handfuls of salt, so mix it with your beer aforesaid, and Sowce your Brawn therein; you may take half a peck of white flower of Oatmeal, and mix it with some liquor, and run it through your hair sieve, and it will cause your Sowce to be white: Milk and Whey is used in this case; but your Milk will not keep so long; you may put both, in the boyling thereof; it will cause it to boyl white; keep your Sowced Brawn close covered, and when it begins to be sour, you may renew it at your pleasure, with adding of fresh liquor.
To Coller Venison.
TAke your Venison and cut it fit to be Collered, or to put into your Pot, it being something deep, and slender, so that you may make about three Collers of a large side, or hanch; season your Venison (being larded before) with Pepper, a little Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, and as much salt as will turn your spices grayish; then roul up your Collers, put them into your Pot, put butter thereunto, so cover over your Pot with some course paste made a purpose; this will ask four or five hours baking; draw them out of the Oven, and let them stand until they are cold, then may you take off your lid, and take out your Venison whole, pour away your gravie, and make clean your Pot, put a little clarified butter in the bottom thereof, then put your Coller in again, and fill it up with Clarified butter, so put on your lid, with a sheet of brown papertyed over it; this way shall you keep Venison a twelvemoneth. In a great feast you may break three of your Pots to pieces, then take out your Venison whole, being congealed, rowed with butter, set your three Collers upon a great dish, and plate; then stick all your butter round about with bay-leaves, and a branch of bayes on the top of each Coller; in your Common dyet one is enough for a dish, but you must break your Pot, otherwise your butter will not come forth whole with it; you must also dip your [Page 10] Pot in hot water to loosen your butter from the sides. This is as rich and honourable a second-course dish, as your Brawn is for the first: you may also if you please, slice it out of your pots at your pleasure: The same way may you do with Venison baked in Rye-dough; that is, Take out all your Venison when it is baked, scrape out all your gravie and jelly out of your bottom and sides of your pie, pour in clarified butter, place in your Venison again, and cover it overwith clarified butter, then put on your lid in its place; it will congeal to the clarified butter, that none can tell that ever it was cut; but you must remember to lard all this Venison, before you Coller it, or put it in your baked meat.
To Coller Beef Red.
TAke a good flank of Beef, and cut out a Coller three quarters of a yard long, and almost half a yard broad; then take a small quantity of Cutchenele prepared, and a little Allum: put this into the value of a pint of Red Wine, then season your Beef with Salt-peter Salt, and put it into a Boul or Tray, with your aforesaid wine, mix it all well together, and let it lie four and twenty hours; then season your Beef with a handful of sweet herbs minced, two Nutmegs, with a little Cloves and Mace beaten, and a quantity of small Pepper not to be discerned, so Coller up your Beef, and bind it with your Tape; if you have a Pot high enough, you may bake it, put a little liquor therein; otherwayes you may boyl it in Pomp-water with a soft fire; when it is cold put it into your pickle, being of white-wine, strong broth, and Vinegar, with a little salt, if the Coller be too fresh, otherwise you need put none; When you go to dish this at a feast, you may cut it into four Collers; it will be of a lovely red, stick it with bay-leafs, and garnish your dish with flowers and green: You may also cut many dishes of your Coller in slices, it will be an handsom Service for your second course.
To Coller Veal.
TAke a breast of Veal and bone him, and beat him square, fitting to be Collered, soak him well in several waters, till all the blood is soaked out, then take him and dry him, and season him with beaten Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg and Ginger, put a handful of sweet herbs, about a spoonful of salt, strow this all over it, then have your slices of fine thin fat bacon, seasoned with a little Sage and Pepper; dip each piece in the yolks of eggs, and arder all over your Veal, so begin at the neck end, and roul it up into a fast Coller, bind it up fast [Page 11] with Tape, so boyl it with your bones, with a faggot of sweet herbs, keep it constantly scummed, till it is boyled, then put it into your Sowsing-pan with the same broth, adding some Vinegar and Salt thereto, with some large Mace; when you serve it up, you may cut it in thin slices, and fill a great dish, and garnish it with flowers, and serve it for the first course.
To Coller Pigg.
YOur Pigg being split and boned, and soaked well in several waters, dry it, season it with Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, Ginger, a little quantity of Pepper, with a handful of sweet herbs, and sage, about a spoonful of Salt; all this being mixed, cast them on both sides of your Pigg; then Coller it close, beginning at the tail, and bind it up: wash it clean from the herbs, and put it a boyling in fair water, keep it constantly scummed; when it is more then half-boyled, put in a faggot of sweet herbs, some large Mace, a race of two of Ginger sliced, with half a pint of Vinegar, and a piece of Izenglass or at least boyl your Izenglass and your Spice in so much of it that you intend to jelly; The Pigg being boyled, put it forth into your Vessel or pan, take away the top and the bottom of your broth or jelly, melt it, and pour it to your Pigg again, dish up your Pigg, when you are ready, cut your Coller into three or four, and dish the head in the middle, on the top of them, with an apple in his mouth; beat your jelly, and garnish your Pigg and dish with slices and gobbets (with some slices on the back) as also with flowers and Bay leaves.
To Coller Porck.
YOu may take a piece of Porck out of the side, as you did before of Brawn, being watered all night, and well squeezed from the blood, seasoned with a good handful of Sage, sweet Margerom, Time and Parslee minced together very small; then having cut out of a fillet of Veal so many thin collops, hackt with a back of a knife, and washed over with yolks of eggs, cover over your said Coller, with your eggy side of your Veal downwards, then wash over your Veal on the upper side with eggs, and throw on your seasoning, with so much Salt as you may imagine may season it, and it will congeal together by reason of the eggs: so Coller it, and bind it up, and when it is boyled, Sowce it with some of the said liquor, and a little Vinegar, beaten Pepper and Ginger: You may slice a Coller thereof when you dish it; it will fill three or four great dishes or chargers, or you may send it up in a Coller; garnish about your dish with sage [Page 12] and flowers, and stick your Porck with Bay-leaves, or Rosemary and flowers.
To Coller Mutton.
TAke a breast of Mutton and bone it, cut off the neck part of it, slice it about the brisket, soak it very well in water from all the blood, it being dryed and spread abroad, season it with an Onion, a little Sampier, a few Capers, a pickle Cowcumber, add to it a little Time; all this being small minced together, throw it on your meat, with Pepper, Cloves, Mace, a little Ginger and Salt, with some pieces of Anchoves all over; sprinkle a top thereof with your feather, the yolk of an egg, then wind up your Coller exceeding close, and boyl it with water and salt, with a faggot or two of sweet herbs; you may cut a neck in five or six pieces, and lard it with Lemmon-pill and boyl with it; thus you may do with your Chines also; but if you Sowce your Chines, you must lard them with bacon, being boyled, put Vinegar into the liquor; This will also serve for a hot boyled meat, the lear being made as you shall see in the hot boyled meats; if you send it up cold, you may cut it into so many slices, as you have larded pieces; put the highest Coller in the middle, then garnish your dish with Sampier or Capers, your meat with Lemmon.
To Coller Goats flesh.
TAke your Goats flesh, breast or neck, bone it, cut it, and beat it out as thin at one place as another, season it with Pepper, Salt, some Cloves, Mace, a little Time, sweet Margerom, Winter-Savory and Ginger beaten; Coller it, bind it, and bake it in a Pot, put a pint of white-wine and strong broth thereto, when it is baked, add more wine to the liquor, cut it in the middle, and let it lye in the pickle, so you may send it up in slices, or how you please.
To Coller Geese.
BOne your Geese, and cut them square, fit to be Collered, let them soak one night in their seasoning, it being Cloves and Mace, Pepper and Salt, so in the morning take it forth, and put small pieces of Anchoves all over, and Westphalie bacon minced, then roul it up, as aforesaid, and boyl it in strong broth, with a little whole Pepper and large Mace, pickle them in the same liquor; when you dish them, cut them in halves, then the two sides will stand upwards, dish them up, garnish the brims of your dish with Westphalie bacon minced.
To Coller Swan.
BOne your Swan, and part the two sides, season it as the Geese aforesaid, only instead of the Westphalie Bacon and Anchoves, take thin slices of fat bacon, almost the breadth of the sides, season them with small Pepper and Sage minced, and dip them into yolks of eggs, and so lay them on upon the sides of your Swan, and roul them up into Collers; let your pickle as aforesaid, be as to the Geese; boyl the head to set upon your Collers in the middle of your dish.
To Coller Brand Geese or Wiggens.
DO as you did by your Geese before, only add thereto an Onion or two, before you have Collered it; this will all serve for second course, in case you want number of dishes, or else you may use them for the first course.
By the same rule you may do any other fowl, according to their nature in the time of season.
BOOK III.
To Sowce, Pickle, or Marble Fish.
To Coller Eeles.
TAke your greatest Eele, and cover it well with salt, split it down the back close to the bone, then cut out the bone, as bare as you can, wash them and dry them well, and lay them upon a dresserboard strowed with salt, that he may not slip when you go to Coller him, then take a handful of minced Oysters, with a little Time, sweet-Margerom, Winter savory, one Onion minced small, then some Nutmegs, Cloves and Mace beaten small; all this being mingled, strow it on the inside of your Eeles; the salt that lyes on the slippery side of the Eele, will be enough to season it; if not, add some more thereunto, so roul them up close, and bind them with Tape, boyl them in fair water and salt, with a little Vinegar, a faggot or two of sweet herbs, and two or three whole Onions, and sliced Ginger, let that be your pickle; then at your pleasure, you may serve them up to the Table, garnish them with Fennel and flowers, as you see good.
To Sowce a Tench, to be served in jelly.
TAke a Tench, and split him down the back, only cut off the head whole, when you have washed them clean from the blood, boyl them up with white-wine, water, Vinegar and salt, with large Mace, sliced Ginger, Nutmegs, slices of Lemmon, so let them boyl in no more liquor then will cover them, and keep them down under liquor with a dish or plate; when he is boyled, take him up with your scummer, and lay him in the dish that you intend to send him up in; then take all the chine bones from the back, and stick them on the fish, and take a quantity of the said liquor, and put it on the fire again; and in case it will not jelly by the strength of the fish, then boyl a piece of Izenglass, till you find it comes to a jelly; so let it stand till it is almost cold, that it will but run, then pour it over your fish into the dish, you may keep some to beat; for the garnishing of your dish, you may mince Sives and Taragon together, and strow the brims of your dish with your fish, if you please, when you send it up; after the same manner you may use for Turbert, Breme, or Perch, or any other fish that you have a desire to serve up in jelly.
To pickle Smelts white or red.
TAke your large Smelts, and being geld, lay them in a pan, on them a row of Lemmons, slice Ginger, Nutmeg, large Mace and whole Pepper, then a row of Smelts, so continue till they are placed, then put to them white-wine Vinegar, and salt, and bay-leaves a top; but if you would pickle them Red, your pickle must be Red wine, well mingled with cutchenele, they will be ready in a week after they are pickled; part them in halves, as you do Anchoves, and dish them up; strow upon them Lemmon cut square like dice, with Broom-buds and Barberries, so pour it upon them; garnish them with sliced Lemmon, and serve them up.
To Marble Sowls, Plaice, Flounders, Smelts, or any other fish that is fitting to Marble.
FIll your Frying-pan with sweet sallet-oyl, and when it is very hot, your fish being dryed and flowered, put them into the said pan; when they are fryed brown and stiff, put them into a large earthen pan, put thereto sliced Nutmeg, large Mace, and whole Pepper, and two or three sliced Lemmons; when you have done frying of all your fish, fry a quantity of Bay-leaves, and put them in a top of your [Page 15] fish, then put to it so much white-wine, and a little Vinegar, as will cover the fish, strow a little salt in it, so dish them up for second course, when you have occasion.
To pickle Lobsters, and to preserve them.
IN case you are afraid your Lobsters will miscarry after they are boyled, and that they will keep no longer, then take Fennel and bruise it in Vinegar, add salt thereto, and with a branch or two of Fennel, wash them between the carkaise and the tail, leave your branched Fennel under the tail, and set them down in a cold place, or a moister with salt; but if you will be at so much charge, you may preserve them in the said pickle; however you may preserve the meat for your use, the tail and claws being broke, in the pickle aforesaid, and use them as a sallet. Thus must you preserve your Pranes, or Shrimps, or Crafish.
To pickle a Conger-Eele.
YOu must scald your Eele, and scrape it till the outward skin is scraped off, then boyl your Eele, being cut in pieces, and bound with Tape, in water, salt, and Vinegar, and an handful of green Fennel, and when it is boyled, put it into your Sowsing-pan, with some of the same liquor and Beer-Vinegar, with an handful of Fennel on the top of the fish, so serve it up cold to the Table.
To Pickle and Sowce Sturgeon.
OPen your Sturgeon and take out the entrails; if it be a female, take out the spawn thereof, and preserve it to make caveere, then cut out your Sturgeon in lengths, being split equally through the back, first cut off your Joul to the body ward, then your first and second Ronde very fair, so that the tayl may be the least, so that you will have eight pieces in your Sturgeon; bind it up very close with braces or tape, strow good store of salt thereon; your liquor boyling very hard, put it in, then let it boyl for an hour and an half softly, take it up carefully without breaking, and let it cool, then put it into your Caggs or Barrel; let your pickle be half white-wine, half stale-Beer with two or three handfuls of salt, so put it to your Sturgeon aforesaid, then hoop up your Barrel, and keep it close, so that you may take off the head at your ease, which you must do ever now and then, and supply with liquor, alwayes scumming away the oyl; otherwise your Sturgeon will be rusty.
To pickle Caveer.
WAsh it with Vinegar, season it with salt, then press it two or three dayes, so that all the liquor or excrements may run away from it, then take it again forth, and mix it together with a quantity of Pepper beaten small to dust, and salt as before, then put it into your press again; let it stand two or three dayes, then taste it if it be seasoned high enough; if not, you must do so the third time; then take it and put it into an earthen Pot, and strow on salt on the top of it; when you make any use to serve up any of it, take out a quantity thereof, and wash it with Vinegar, and with your knife separate your Caveer from the strings, and bring it into small certain parcells, as big as a sprat; dish it up in your dish round about, and in the middle put slices of Lemmon between, pour on oyl and Vinegar, and garnish it with Lemmons and Barberries.
To Coller Sowls.
TAke out the bone of the Sowl from the head to the tail, in the white side of him; you must only scale the Sowl, and not strip him, then take a little piece of Salmon, a handful of set-Oysters, the tail of a Lobster, Pranes or Shrimps; mince all this together with the yolks of half a dozen eggs, boyled hard, with half a dozen of Anchovies, then take a handful of sweet herbs, minced very small, put them all together, make them up into a body with your yolks of eggs, and grated bread, season them with Nutmegs, Cloves, Mace, Ginger and a little salt: This same forced meat will serve for most fish: Your Sowl, as aforesaid, being washed and dryed, and washed over with a few yolks of eggs, spread part of the forced meat all over the Sowls, then wash it over with eggs again, and dip your Oysters in the yolks of eggs, with Pranes, Shrimps, or sliced Lobster, and stick upon the forced meat, sprinkling some salt, and more spices, if occasion shall require, then roul up your Sowl in Coller, and bind him hard with Tape; you may force as many as you please, and boyl them in water, wine, vinegar and salt, and seasoned with whole spice, with a faggot or two of sweet herbs; let your liquor boyl before you put in your Coller, pickle them in the same; when they are boyled, if you serve them up, you may cut them in the middle, and then the middle of your Sowl stands upwards in the dish.
To Coller Salmon.
TAke a side of Salmon, you may cut off a handful of the tail, it being dry and washed; wash it over with the yolks of eggs, strow on a good handful of sweet herbs, with a little Fennel, season it with a pretty store of salt, and a good quantity of your aforesaid spice, adding a little Pepper thereto, bind it up in Collers with your broad Tape; let your water, vinegar and salt boyl together, then put in your said Coller with a faggot of sweet herbs, with sliced Ginger and Nutmeg; it will ask an hour and halfs boyling, if it be a great Coller; so put it into your Sowce-pan with your liquor, until you go to dishing of your cold-meats.
To Sowce Lumps.
SOme flea your Lumps before they boyl them, but that is not proper for any Sowced fish, to be served in cold; you must only scald and scrape him with your knife, then boyl him up as the aforesaid fish, and serve him to the Table; you may serve him with jelly, as you were shewn before.
After the same manner of boyling fish, or pickling, you may do M [...]llets, Dace, Gurnets, Pikes, Carps, Perches, Tenchs, Roches, and many other sorts of fish, in the nature of this.
BOOK IV.
Cold Baked meats of Flesh.
A Fore you go about your Baked meats, I shall give some directions how to make your Paste, because some that may have occasion, may be ignorant therein.
To make Paste of Rye-Flower.
IT is only done with boyling water, made very stiff, and molded so together that it may not crack; your Paste for your lesser cold baked-meats, as for foul, and the like, is to be made with fine flower, to every peck a pound and half of butter, and about the quantity of [Page 18] eight eggs, casting away the whites of four, put your butter into your liquor, and when it is melted, pour it into a hole made in your flower, but not to your eggs, and put to it as much liquor as will work it up, so mingle it together with your eggs lying round about your flower; for if you should put your scalding liquor to your eggs at first, you would candle them, and take away their use and operation, in making your Paste any whit the better to stand; you are not to strive to make this Paste altogether so stiff as the other, yet it must be somewhat stiffer then your Paste for hot baked-meats, because you raise these higher then them; And the matter that you bake in these, will ask much more baking then your hot baked-meat; this must be well molded, that it may work as clear as wax; and to that end, let not your liquor be too vehement hot; the more butter you put in, the more colder let your liquor be; you may well upon that account, put in two pound of butter.
To Bake Venison in Crust, or in Pots.
YOur Venison being boned and parboyled, you must lard it very thick with your best larding bacon, cut in square pieces about the bigness of the top of your finger, and as long; then season it with Pepper and Salt, only put Salt in your Pepper till it look grayish; if it be an hanch, you must cut it with your knife, till you make it fit for your coffin; if it be a side, you must take out the sinews, and the skin that is thereon, and cut off the neck part, to put under your best Venison; but your sides are more fitting to be baked to eat hot, and your hanches cold: now your coffin being made round, or four square with your Rye Paste, about a foot high, your best fashion is round; lay in sheets of lard in the bottom of your coffin, and strow in seasoning, and then place in your Venison; if you please, you may sheet it with lard also on the top, then put on two pound of butter very smooth; so your lid being ready, indifferent thick, wet it, and lay it on, and close your Pie; so make a funnel upon your lid, with your garnish; so beat two or three eggs, with a spoonful of water, and a little flower, indore your baked meat with the same, with your weting brush made of feathers. This baked meat will ask six hours bakeing; take heed your Oven be not too hot at the top, to scorch the brims; when it comes forth of the Oven, if you will keep it any thing long, you must pour out all the liquor, for the gravie will presently putrifie it; otherwise you must do as you were taught before; then take off your butter clear from your gravie, and put it to your clarified butter, and fill up your Pie when it is cold; being thus done, it shall keep half a year; but being done [Page 19] as aforesaid, it shall keep a twelvemoneth: keep your funnel stopped with a piece of butter.
To bake a Fillet of Veal to be eaten cold.
TAke a great Leg of Veal, and cut off a large Fillet; then cut it into three pieces like Fillets, and parboil them: when they are cold, season them with a little Pepper beaten small, and Salt, Nutmeg, Cloves and Mace; your Coffin being ready, put in the first Fillet, and strow on Time, and having slices of Bacon seasoned with Sage and Pepper, lay it on the top of the said Veal: then lay on the second Fillet, and do the like with another laying of Bacon; then lay on the third Fillet, and do the like: So strow on a little minced Time, and a little seasoning, with some large Mace, put on the butter, and close up the Pye. You must observe to beat all your Fillets of Veal with a Rolling-pin, or with a back of a Clever; put on your Funnel, garnish and indore your Baked-meat with Yolks of Eggs: Let this Baked meats be made with hot butter, paste, and fine flower: when it is baked and cold, fill it up with clarified butter.
To bake a Calves head to be eaten cold.
YOu must first half boil a fair Calves head, then take out all the bones on both sides, and season it with the aforesaid seasoning, and lard it with Bacon and a little Lemmon pill; then having a Coffin large enough, not very high, nor very thick, but make it four square, lay on some sheets of Lard on the top, and butter, and it; when it is baked and cold, fill it with clarified butter.
To bake a Fawn or Kid to be eaten cold.
FIrst, bone either Fawn or Kid, parboil, and lard them very thick with Bacon, then season them with a little fine Pepper, Nutmeg, Cloves, Mace, and as much Salt as you think fitting (cold baked meats ought to have more then hot) then take some savoury forst meat, and put into the belly, and so make it into the proportion as before it was boned: make your Coffin according to that proportion, with hot butter, paste, and put it in fairly, [...] that it bear not down the sides: So put on your butter, and close it up, and when it is baked and cold, fill it up at the Funnel with clarified butter.
To bake a Hare.
TAke a Hare and parboil him, and cut all the flesh clean from the bones, then take a good piece of Westphalie Bacon, or other lean Bacon well boiled, mince them all together, then beat them in a great morter, season it with Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Mace, and Nutmeg, with a handful of minced sweet herbs put to it, a little Vinegar, and three Eggs; beat them again in the morter, till they come into a reasonable body, not too stiff: having your Coffin made in the form of a Hare, lay in part of this meat over the bottom, then lay a laying of Bacon, of square pieces as big as a Tobacco Pipe, so long as your meat, then lay in another laying of your meat: this do three or four times, till all the meat is gone, lay also a laying of bacon on the top of it. Note, that you must wash every laying with the yolks of eggs, and squeez it down with your hand, then put on butter, and close your Pye: You should at first also lay sheets of Lard at the bottom; set up the head and ears of your Hare in the fore-part of the Pye, in a funnel of paste, with a Garnish; and a funnel in the middle thereof, indored with of yolks Eggs beaten, and so bake it: when it is cold, fill it with clarified butter; this must be done with hot butter-paste: To carve when it is eating, you must begin at the tail, and cut through to the head, it will be all madderd in a body in your slices.
Another way to bake a Hare.
TAke a Hare, being parboiled, and break his bones with a chopping knife, that they start not up, and break your Pye; and also cut the sinews of the back and other parts, then lard them very well with bacon lard; season them with Pepper and Salt, a little Cloves, Mace, and Nutmeg: your Coffin being ready, in the proportion of a Hare, lay some leaves of lard underneath, seasoned with Pepper, minced Sage, and sweet herbs, so put in your Hare, only the head to be on the lid, as aforesaid; put in your butter, and close your Pye, indore it, bake it, and fill it with clarified butter when it is cold.
To bake Pork to be caten cold.
TAke a Loin of Pork and bone it, and cut part thereof into thin collops beaten with the Clever, also take as many collops of Veal thin beaten; season your Pork with Pepper, Salt, and minced Sage, season your Veal with Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, and minced Time; put yalks of Eggs to each of your meats, and mingle them together, with [Page 21] their several seasonings, then lay a laying of the Pork, in a form as you intend to make your pye, either round or otherwise; & then a laying of your Veal thereon, so continue till you have laid all your meat, then take a Rolling-pin and beat it well together into a body, put it into your Coffin made for that purpose, close it, indore it, bake it: when it is cold, fill it with clarified butter; let your Pork be the fat end of the Loyn, and both undermost and uppermost in your pye.
To bake Brawn to be eaten cold.
TAke your raw lean Brawn that is not useful to coller, and as much fat bacon, and mince them small together, then beat them in a morter, beat a good handful of minced Sage with them; season them with a good handful of Pepper and Salt, and a good quan [...]ity of beaten Ginger, pour in a little vinegar, and break in a couple of eggs; you may make a cold butter-paste, and drive out a sheet thereof, and lay in your meat in the form of a Brawn, and put in butter and bay leaves atop, and so close up your pasty: Let them be sent up to the table with an Apple in his mouth: if you please, you may bake it in a round pye or any other form.
To bake Rabbets to be eaten cold.
WHen they are parboiled, take out the bones you can well take out, and lard your Rabbets, then season them as you did your Hare, put a good quantity of Savoury, Forst-meat, so put them into your Coffin prepared; put on butter and close your pye, bake it, and fill it with clarified butter when it is cold.
To bake Pigeons so be eaten cold.
PIgeons being parboiled, stuffe them full of forst-meat, and Bacon in slices; being seasoned with Pepper and Salt, lay them into your Coffin prepared, and put betwixt each, one slice of bacon seasoned with Pepper and Sage; so close your pye, put on a funnel, and when 'tis baked and cold, fill it with melted butter.
To bake Bran-Geese, or Wild-Geese.
WHen they are parboiled, take out the brest bones, and as many other as you can, not disfiguring the Fowl: then season the Fowl, and lard them, bake them, so fill them with butter.
To bake a Turkey.
BOne and lard your Turkey when it is parboiled, being seasoned with Pepper, Salt, with a little Cloves and Mace, put him into your Coffin prepared for it, lay on butter, and close it; put the head on the top with your garnish: Indore it, bake it, and fill it with clarified butter when it is cold.
To bake Herns.
OF your Herns, you must take out what bones that you can, not disfiguring the Fowl; so lard it, and season it with Pepper, Salt, and Cloves and Mace beaten; close it, and bake it, and fill it when it is cold with butter.
To bake a Swan.
PUll all the gross feathers from the Swan clean, and all the down; then case your Swan, and bone it, leave all the flesh, lard it extream well, and season it very high with Pepper, Salt, Cloves and Mace; so having your Coffin prepared in the proportion of a Swan, made of Rye dough, put in your Swan, and lay some sheets of lard and bay leaves on the top, so put on butter and close it: put on the head and legs on the top, garnish and indore it, and bake it; when it is cold fill it up with clarified butter. Your skin being spread forth and dried, is good to make a stomacher for them that are apt to take cold in their brest. You may bake your Swan, if you please, being ordered as aforesaid, and not case it.
How to bake a Goose.
BReak the bones of your Goose and parboil him, then season him with Pepper and Salt, a little Cloves and Mace; if you please, you may bake a Rabbet or two with it, because your stubble-Geese are very fat, and your Rabbets dry, you need not lard either: Bake it in good hot butter paste. This is the Goodwifes pye upon the season, or against a good time; by the same Rules as aforesaid, you may bake any other gross flesh or fowl, according to its nature or quality.
Cold Baked meats of Fish.
To bake a Lamprey Eele pye.
CUt open your Lamprey in the belly, and take the bone out of the back, then scald it, and scrape it well of the skin side; season it in the inside with Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Mace, and a little minced onyon, then close it together again as it were whole; you must also season the out side: make a round Coffin, being ready, of Rye dough, according to the widness of your Ecle, when turned round therein; if your Coffin be very high, you may lay one upon another: put in two great onyons in the middle, season them on the top with some of your seasoning, with half a dozen bay leaves and butter; close your pye very high: so with your funnel and garnishing, indore it, and bake it, and fill it up with clarified butter when it is cold.
To bake a Turbert.
YOur Turbert being fin'd and prepared, slash it on the white side with your knife, season it with small Pepper and Salt, with Nutmegs, Cloves, and Mace; your Coffin being ready, according to the proportion of the Turbert, put it in, lay on butter, and close it: This may only be sent to a friend; in case there be plenty of Turberts, it is a more honourable dish to be baked hot, with other Compounds, as you shall see hereafter.
To bake a Salmon.
SCrape your Salmon, wash and drie him, then run your pen-knife from the head to the tail, on both sides: otherwise take out the chine, then season him with beaten Cloves, Mace, Ginger, with Pepper and good store of Salt, both in the inside and the outside in the scortches: you may put him in a raised Coffin proportioned for him, otherwise lay him upon a sheet of pasty paste, and set a border close round him, that he may be formed like a Salmon; then put in butter, sliced Ginger, large Mace, on the top thereof, then turn up the other half sheet of your paste over the Back, as you do a Pasty, and close them all along by the belly side, from head to tail, so bring him in proportion with his fins and tail, head and gills, so set a funnel and garnish thereon; being scaled all over, then indore him and bake him, and fill him with butter when he is cold.
To bake an Eele to be eaten cold.
COller your Eele, and season as before, when you sowst him; lay him upon the side into the Coffin, so put on butter, and close him; indore him, bake him, and when he is cold, fill him with clarified butter.
To bake a Pike.
TAke a fair Pike and lard it with. Pickle-herring, being beforehand scaled and made fitting force his belly with forst meat of fish, then season him with some Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg and Ginger beaten: then bake him as you did your Salmon before, according to his form or proportion. Your cold baked meat of fish ought to be according to their proportions or forms, so may you bake any that you have a mind to.
BOOK V.
How to make several sorts of Jellies, Leaches, and Creams.
To make Jellies.
TO prepare and make your stock for Jellies, you must have two pair of calves feet, being boiled so that they may be blanched, then take two knuckles of Veal, cut off the Fillet, break not the bones; let your Veal and calves feet lie in fair water for the space of four and twenty hours, and for the time shift them in five or six waters, scruseing forth all the blood; then put them a boiling in fair spring water, so much as will well cover and boil them; keep them scumming for the space of an hour, and put a little Salt therein, with some long Mace, Cinamon slit, Nutmeg and Ginger, in a tiffinee cloth: when they have boiled soberly for the space of two hours, try your broth in a spoon whether it will Jelly; boil it not down too low, lest it change brown; but if it jellies not to your mind, put into it about an ounce of Ising-glass, and when it hath simbered about half an hour, strain out your broth into a Pipkin, and let it stand till it is cold, or till you go to make your several Jellies
How to season and run Chryst [...]l Jellies.
YOur stock being cold as aforesaid, take away the far from the top, and dregs from the bottom, and put the rest into a Pipkin; put to it some Cloves, Mace, Cinamon, and slit Ginger and Nutmeg, also of Musk and Ambergrease, of each a grain in a tiffinee ragg; put in some Rose water, and about a quart of Rhenish wine if your stock be stiff, or as much as you may imagine will make it a strength fit for Jelly: add to it of oyl of Nutmeg and Mace, two or three drops of each, and as much double refined Sugar as will make it to your taste, according to the quantity of your Jelly; set all these on the fire in the Pipkin, and let it simber a quarter of an hour, then take it off, and put in the juice of a dozen Lemmons, and having eight whites of Eggs well beaten with a spoon, put them into the Jelly, and set it on the fire again till it boils up; then having your Jelly-bag ready hanged up on a spit between the two racks near the fire, with a bason underneath, put your Jelly into the bag, and let it run into the bason, then set another bason under it, and put up the first running into the bag again, so do till it runs clear; this is the Chrystal Jelly.
How to run Colours.
PUt a quantity of Saffron into a piece of Tiffinee, and some beaten Cutchenele into the like, tyed close with a thred; you may put Spinage or green Wheat also into another, and when you have run out as much Chrystal Jelly, as you intend, put under your Bason with your Cutchenele in it, bruising it tenderly with a spoon, that it may colour your Jelly; take heed you bruise it not too hard, for fear of breaking the Tiffinee, and mudding your Jelly with the Dregs thereof: so observe with your other Colours.
To make Jellies of Oranges.
TAke the juice of two dozen of Oranges, and one quart of the aforesaid stock; boil, or let them simber together for the space of a quarter of an hour, seasoned as the aforementioned Chrystal Jelly: if it be too weak, you may add thereto a quarter of an ounce of Ising-glass; if too strongs add some clear R [...]ish wine: so clarifying of it with four or five whites of Eggs, as aforesaid, run it through your Bags. Thus might you make Jelly of Red Currans; the juice thereof being bruised with a little Rhenish wine; in the [Page 26] Winter season you may use the Syrrup of Mulberries, or Barberries, or clear Syrrup of Orangado: so will you have your several coloured Jellics, with their several tastes.
To make Harts-horn Jelly.
TAke the Brawn of six Cocks, being steept in water, and shifted for 24. hours, then take a quarter of a pound of Harts-horn, and boil these together two hours, then strain the Broth out into a Pipkin, and let it be cold, then take off the top and bottom. Return your clear Jelly into a clean Pipkin, and season it as your Chrystal Jelly before; only adding thereto a little quantity of Chainnie; if it be too strong, add some Rhenish wine; if too weak, a small quantity of Ising-glass: You may put herein Majestie of Pearl, or if you please, Corral; after which set it on the fire again for a quarter of an hour, more or less, according to the strength or weakness of your Jelly; then clarifie it with whites of Eggs, and run it through your Bags as aforesaid, and preserve it in a glass or Pipkin for your use: This Jelly is a great Cordial, very Restringent and strengthening to the back. It may be taken cold, or else dissolved, being heat again, and so drank.
How to make Leach.
TAke a pottle of New Milk, half a pound of Jordan Almonds, being first Blancht, then steept in Water, for half a day or better, then let them be beaten very small in a Morter, after which put them into your Milk, set them both upon a heap of coals in a skillet until they boil, keeping it alwayes stirring for fear of burning to; and so let it boil for the space of half an hour, then strain out your Milk through a hair strainer into another skillet; add thereto one ounce of Ising-glass being pull'd to pieces, and steept in Milk for an hour before; put thereto likewise a good quantity of whole Cinamon, with some large Mace, and a Nutmeg quartered, together with half a pound or more of your fine white Sugar; Musk and Ambergreace, of both one grain, then set it on the fire again, keeping it stirring while it continues there: If you feel it to begin to grow at the bottom, shift it into a clean skillet, it being very apt to burn; when it hath boiled half an hour, take a spoonful, and put it into a cold sawcer; if when it is cold you finde it strong, then add more Milk thereto; if weak, then boil it longer: When it is enough, add to it a little Rose water, then strain it into your Bason.
How to run your Leach into colours.
TAke Saffron, Cutchencle and Spinnage; let them be all beaten apart, and tyed up in three [...]ssin [...] Raggs, by which you may make three colours; wring forth a small quantity of Spinnage, it makes the one Green; the other two steept in a little Rose-water, bruised tenderly with a spoon, makes your Red and Yellow; if you would have any other colours, you must use sweet syrrups which are clear; you may cast these to make Ribbon, Leach; Dissolve one of the said colours, and pour it into a deep bason; when it is congealed and strong, dissolve another, and being so cold that it will but just run, run it on the top of your former; thus do with as many as you have.
The use of your Jelly and Leach.
YOur Jelly and Leach is a great second and third course dish: Your Jelly being s [...]ced forth thin, and placed in your dish; so is your Leach also cut forth in Ribbons, and placed between the Jelly, with your colours opposite one to another; Beat some of your Jelly to pieces, and put a spoonful in goblets (or more) in the middle; and also garnish it with goblets, or diamonds of Jelly in every vacant place; you may also run your Jelly into the pill of Lemmon, being cut into half, and the mea [...] taken out; or into the sets of sweet-meat-Tarts, or little Coffins made for that purpose, or any other way that is proper, according to your pleasure.
To make divers sorts of Creams.
To make Cheese and Cream.
VVHen you have run your morning milk with about one pottle of fresh Cream to a gallon and half, your Curds being cleansed from the Whey, season it with fine beaten Cinamon, Sugar and Rose-water; fill five or six dishes about half a pint a piece with the said Curd; then lay trenchers on the top of them, and a board thereon, and press them until they come into a body like Cheeses, then turn them out whole into your dish (which you may do the better by buttering the bottom of your dish) and having a pottle [Page 28] of Cream boyled up, with whole Cinamon, large Mace, and a Nutmeg quartered; with the yolks of six eggs beaten with Rose-water, stirred in a little before it comes off the fire, seasoned with fine Sugar; (you may add one grain of Musk in the boyling, which will serve for the same purpose another time;) when it is almost cold, put it in with your ladle between the said Cheeses; scrape thereon Sugar, and serve it up.
Another way.
SEason your pure fresh Cream with beaten Cinamon, Nutmeg, Rose-water and Sugar; with as much Naple-Bisket grated, as will make it somewhat thick; so pour it over your Cheeses, as was done with the other; strow on Cinamon and Sugar, and se send it up.
To make Apple-Cream.
TAke a quantity of Pippins, and boyl them in a pinte of whitewine, and a pinte of Sack, with a pill of minced Orangado, some whole Cinamon and Ginger sliced, half a pound of fine Sugar, keep them close covered, until they are boyled unto a jelly; then lay them by spoonfuls as high as you can into your dish; when they are cold, pour in your boyled Cream as aforesaid; stick your Rocks of Jelly with sliced Citte [...]n.
This may be done without Sack or White-wine; only adding a pound of Sugar more to fourteen Pippins; you must use no more water in the boyling then will cover them; you shall know when they are rightly boyled down, they will be as red as Rubie, and clear.
To make Quince-Cream.
BOyl your Quinces unpared, and when they are boyled very tender, pare them, and take the Pulp from the Core, season it with beaten Cinamon, and Ginger O [...]angado, and dryed Citte [...]n minced small; Ca [...]y Co [...]its, and Rose water, and Sugar; so you [...] Cream being boyled and seasoned (as in the first) and half cold, put it into your Quinces, being dished in spoofuls; or if you please, you may [...] it altogether, the Cream will not curdle; but if you do this with Ra [...] Cream, your Quinces must be quite cold, else your Cream will curdle.
To make a Cream called Sack and Pottage.
TAke about a pottle of cream, or new milk, whilest it boyls, beat the yolks of a dozen eggs with half a pinte of sack; and when the milk boyls put it in, keeping it stirring until it comes to a tender curd, then run it through a strainer; save your curd, being cleansed from the whey; season it with beaten Cinamon, Ginger, Nutmeg, Sugar, Rose-water; so put it into your dish, as a Tansey, strowing thereon beaten Cinamon and Sugar.
To make a Sack-Posset the best way.
SEt a gallon of milk on the fire, put therein a grain of Musk, whole Cinamon and large Mace; when it boyls, stir in half a pound of Naple-Bisket grated, keeping of it stirring while it boyls; then beat eight eggs together, casting four of the whites away; beat them well with a ladleful of milk or two amongst them; take off the fire the aforesaid milk, and stir in your eggs; put it on the fire again (but keep it stirring for fear it curdles) having almost a pinte of sack in your Bason (upon the coals, with a spoonful of Rose-water) your milk being seasoned with sugar, and taken off the fire▪ pour it into your said sack, stirring of it apace; while it is so pouring forth, take out your grain of Musk, so throw thereon beaten Cinamon, and send it up.
To coddle Codlings green, to serve up with Cream.
TAke Apples from the tree fit to coddle, put them into a broad Pan (or Skillet of water, set them over an heap of charcoal fire; so that they may be alwayes scalding hot and never boyl, kept close covered; only to have an eye on them, that now and then they may be turned in the pan; This constant sober heat without boyling (and being ke [...]t close) causeth their greenness; when they are tender, take off the outwa [...]d skin; your cream being boyled up, and seasoned, you may put them in whole or in halves, all over your cream; being very well sprinkled with Rose water, so scrape on sugar, and send them up.
To make Barley Cream.
LET your Pearled barley be well boyled; then set over your cream, and put therein as much of the said barley, [Page 30] as may bring it to a reasonable thickness; being boyled up for the space of a quarter of an hour boyl in it whole Cinamon, and large Mace, with a little Lemmon-pill; then having two yolks of eggs, for each quart of Cream, well beaten with Rose-water and some of the said Cream, put them in, keeping your Cream stirring, adding a little salt, when you take it off the fire; seasoned with sugar, you may serve it hot to the Table.
To make Rasberry Cream.
WHen you have boyled up your Cream (as other Creams aforesaid) take two ladlefuls of the said Cream, (being almost cold) bruise them together, season it with Sugar and Rosewater, and put it into your aforesaid Cream, stirring it altogether; so dish it up.
After the same manner may you do your Strawberry Cream.
To make Red Currans Cream.
YOu must first bruise your Currans with some of the said Cream, (being boiled as aforesaid) then strain them through your strainer (or sieve) and put the Liquid substance thereof to the said Cream (being almost cold) and it will be a pure Red; so serve it up.
To make Cabbage Cream.
TAke three gallons of milk, when it boyleth, put therein a pottle of Cream, (and after its in) let it boyl a dozen walms, then take it off the fire, and put it in four o [...] five broad milk-pans; let it get a head, until the next day, that you intend to use it; when you dish it, put half a Cabbage in the bottom of your dish, (with the cut side downwards) then take off the head, or clouts of Cream, with a slice or scummer, and lay them over the Cabbage, sp [...]inkle on Cinamon, Sugar and Rose-water between each sheet, so lay one on the top of the other, until all the heads of your pans is on the Cabbage, and it will appear on the Table like a Cabbage; you may stick it with sprigs of Rosemary, laying Artificial snow thereon.
But if you dish the said Clouts, in the bottom of a small dish (within a greater) you may then call it Clouted Cream.
To make Snow Cream.
BReak the whites of six eggs, put thereto a little Rose-water, beat them well together with a bunch of feathers, until they come perfectly to resemble snow; so lay on the said snow in heaps upon some other Cream (that is cold) which is made fit for the Table; you may put under your Cream, in the bottom of the dish, part of a penny loaf, and stick therein a branch of Rosemary or Bayes, and fill your tree with the said Snow; so serve it up.
To make Almond Leach Cream.
BEat a quarter of a pound of Jordan Almonds in a Morter, until it comes to a Paste; (but note in the beating, you must mingle by degrees some Rose-water and Sugar) after it is well composed or beaten thin, with a little milk, adding thereto a little Rice-flower; so make it like a batter, pouring it into your Cream or Milk over the fire, and let them boyl altogether, (putting thereunto whole Cinamon, a little large Mace, Ising-glass, and a quartered Nutmeg) for the space of half an hour; But you must keep it stirring the whole time, for fear of burning; when you take it off, put into it the yolks of four eggs, beaten in a little Cream and Rose-water, with half a pound of white Sugar, stir all together, and dish it up; a pottle of milk is enough for all the aforesaid compounds.
The aforesaid compounds being boyled in a quart of Milk, you may pour it into two basons; you may colour one of them green with the juice of Spinnage, and slice it into your dish when it is cold; stick your green with sliced Almonds, and your white with green Cittern.
To make Goosberry Cream.
FIrst preserve your Goosberries (as you are taught in the Book of Preserves) then having a clear Cream, boyled up, and seasoned, with old Cinamon, Nutmeg, Mace, Sugar, Rose-water and Eggs, (as you have read before) dish it up, and when it is cold, take up your Goosberries with a pin and stick them on in rows, as thick as they can lie upon the said Cream; Garnish your dish with them; strow them over with Sugar, and send them up.
To make Rice Milk or Cream to be eaten hot.
BOyl your Rice in water about half a quarter of an hour, put it out into a Cullender, and pick out the unhuskt Rice from it, then put on three pints of Milk or Cream, or both together, and set it on a heap of coals in a skillet, put to it large Mace, whole Cinamon, a Nutmeg in halves; then put almost a quarter of a pound of your aforesaid Rice, being thinned and beaten with Cream or Milk; let it boyl until the Rice be very tender, and it begins to thicken; then take the yolks of four eggs, and beat them with some Rose-water, and a ladleful of your Cream off the fire, so stir it all into your Cream over the fire, then take it off, and season it with Sugar and a little salt, dish it up, and take forth your whole spice, scrape Sugar round the brims of your dish. After the same manner may you make Barley Milk or Cream; only note, you must give Barley far more boyling then your Rice, both in the water and milk.
To boyl Milk or Cream with French Bread, to be eaten hot.
TAke a French Role, being chipt, and slice it exceeding thin in litle pieces; dry it upon the fire, then having three pints of Milk or Cream, ready to boyl with Cinamon, large Mace and Nutmeg, put in your Bread, and let it boyl together with your Milk; beat the yolks of four or five eggs with a little Rose-water, and a ladleful of your Milk over the fire: and stir it in together with your Cream; season it with Sugar and Salt, and send it up. These two abovementioned, do use to be sent hot to the Table on fish dayes.
To make Spring Pottage.
PUT on about a gallon of fair water, with a handful of great Oatmeal beaten small, and a piece of Ribb Bacon; then take a handful of Brook-lime, as many Water- [...]ess [...]s, Nettle tops, Elder budds, Violets and Primrose-leaves, with young Alexander leaves; mince all these very small, put them to your [...], with a little large Mace; so season it with salt, and put [...]n b [...]tter when you take it off; and so serve it to the [...]able on fa [...]i [...]g d [...]yes, or eat it in the morning fasting. It is good to cleanse the blood.
To make Water-Grewell.
TAke a pottle of water, a handful of great Oatmeal, pickt and beat in a Morter, put it a boyling: when it is half enough, put to it two handfuls of Currans washed, a faggot or two of sweet herbs, four or five blades of large Mace, a little sliced Nutmeg; let a grain of Musk be infused a little while in it; season it with Sugar and Rose-water when it is enough, and put to it a little drawn Butter.
To make Punnado.
TAke about one quart of Running-water, put it on the fire in a skillet, then cut a light Roul of Bread in slices, about the bigness of a groat, and as thin as Wafers, dye it in a dish on a few coals, then put it into your water, with two handfuls of Currans, pickt and washed, a little large Mace, season it with Sugar and Rose-water, when it is enough; And infuse or rub the bottom of your dish with Musk: You must add Salt to this, and the above-mentioned.
To make Barley-Grewell.
TAke half a pound of Barley, and give it one or two walms, in two or three waters, then put it in a stone Morter and beat it; so set it a boyling in a pottle of water, or more, with two ounces of Harts-horn; when it hath boyled about two hours, strain it through a strainer; then add a little more water to your Barley, to get out the heart and strength of it; then set your liquor a boyling again, with half a pound of Currans, a faggot of cold herbs; as, Sorrel, Strawberry, and Violet leaves, &c. also a little Time, three or four blades of Mace; and when the Currans are boyled enough, your broath will be ready; then add about a quarter of a pinte of the juice of Sorrel, let it boyl one walm; take it off the fire, and scruise in the juice of sour Lemmons; season it with Rose water, with Musk infused therein, with a little Salt, there is nothing better then this, to give any one in a I eaver, all the time of their sickness; if you serve it to the Table, leave out cold herbs, and add sweet herbs; you may also send up the Barley with it; but for weak stomacks strain it.
To make a Pearmane Cawdle.
MAke a Posset with a quart of Milk and White-wine very clear, then slice half a dozen great Pearmanes, and boyl them in your Posset; when they are boyled enough, strain the liquor forth, with as much of the Apple as will run; lay it on the fire again, with two or three blades of Mace; when it boyls, bear the yolks of three eggs into it, to thicken it; season it with some Muskified Rose-water, and Sugar; this is very good to give sick people which are subject to Melancholly.
To make a Lemmon Cawdle.
TAke a pinte of White-wine, and a pinte of water; and let it boyl; put to it half a Manchet, cut as thin and small as you can; put it in with some large Mace; then beat the yolks of two eggs to thicken it, and scruise in the juice of half a dozen Lemmons; season it with Sugar and Rose-water.
To make a Florendine, or Made-dish of Rice.
THe Paste for your Florendines ought to be a rich cold buttered Paste, or Puff paste; take a pound of Rice, boyl it a quarter of an hour in water; then put it out into a Cullender; afterwards boyl it half an hour in milk, or as long as you can; provided your Milk burns not too; put four or five sticks of Cinamon in the boyling thereof; and let it stand in a deep dish or bason, until it is cold, and congealed together; then take the one half of it, or as much as you need; break to it the yolks of six eggs, and the whites of two; put to it half a pound of Beef-suet minced small, and almost as many Currans; a dozen of Dates minced; season it with Cinamon, Nutmeg, a little Cloves, Mace, Ginger, Salt, and a handful of Sugar, with a little Rose water; so mingle it all up together in a thick batter, with a little Cream: cover over your dish you intend to bake it in with a sheet of Paste: put in your Rice, fill it not too full, that it rise not over the brims of your dish; then jagg a sheet of Puff-paste, the breadth of your dish, about half an inch broad; twist them and lay them over your Florendine, from the one side of your dish, to the other, fastening them to the sheet of Paste in the bottom; so cross them over again, that they may be Chequer-work, then cut your Paste upon the brim of your dish, double, over all the ends of your cross-bars; bake it, and stick it in the chequers with Lozenges; scrape on Sugar, and send it up.
To Butter Rice.
TAke Rice that is after the same manner boyled in water, then in milk; bruise it with your ladle, with some sweet Cream amongst it; put butter to it, and set it on a heap of coals in a dish; let it boyl, and keep it stirring; season it with Cinamon, grated Nutmeg, Salt, Rose-water and Sugar; when it is enough dish it on sippits of toasts; and stick them with the same; or Lozenges of Paste, fryed or baked; scrape on Sugar, and send it up.
To make a Florendine, or Made-dish of Apples.
PUt on a skillet of water, with some Currans a boyling; then pare about a dozen of Pippins, and cut them from the Core, into the said water; when they are boyled tender, pour them into a Cullender; when the water is drained from them, put them into a dish, and season them (but if you have time, stay until they are cold lest it melt your Sugar, besides it will spoyl your paste) with Sugar, Rose-water, Cinamon, and Carraway seeds; then role out two sheets of Paste; put one in your dish bottom, and all over the brims; then lay in your Apples in the bottom round and high, wet it round, and cover it with your other sheet, close it, and carve it about the brims of your dish, as you please, prick and bake it; scrape on Sugar, and send it up for a second course.
To make a Florendine, or a Made-dish of Spinnage.
TAke almost a peck of Spinnage, when your kettle boyls very fast, throw it in, and let it have half a dozen walms; then put it out into a Cullender and let it drain, and scruise out all the water; mince it very small with a pill or two of Orangado, add to it half a pound of boyled Currans; season it with Cinamon, Ginger, beaten Nutmeg and Salt; then put it in your dish upon a sheet of Paste; put to it butter and sugar; cover and close it; prick it over, and bake it: When it is almost baked, put to it a glass of Sack, a little drawn Butter and Vinegar: so shake or mingle it together with your knife, or spoon, and when you have occasion for it, scrape on Sugar, and send it up.
To make Pasties to fry.
TAke of the same compounds, of Apples and other ingredients, as is in your Florendine of Apples; and make very small Pasties, as you did of the Rice, only add to them a little sliced Orangado.
To make a Florendine or Made-dish of Kidney of Veal.
TAke the Kidney of Veal, fat and all, as much as you have, and mince it small; then mince a few sweet herbs; and about a quarter of a pound of Currans, or more, according to the quantity of your meat; season it with Cloves, Mace, Cinamon, Nutmeg, Sugar, Rose-water, Salt, the yolks of three or four eggs, and a little Sack; if you think it will be too fat, you must add a handful or two of grated bread; a Pippin or two minced, with a little Orangado: so put it on a sheet of Paste in the bottom of your dish, and cover it with another, so close it up: prick it and bake it: scrape on Sugar, and send it up for the first course.
To make toasts of a Kidney of Veal, called Marrow toasts.
MInce it, and season it as aforesaid, and put it in a dish on the coals: as it melts, add grated bread and the yolks of eggs, a little Cream: so stir it up and down, until it comes into a body like Pap: then take two or three rouls of stale light bread, and cut off the two corners of every one of them: then cut them forth in toasts throughout the roul; wash the one side with the yolks of eggs, and spread on your composition; being hot, it will spread like butter: thus do with all of them, until all be on: wash them over on the top with the yolks of eggs; and so fry them softly: dish them up on a plate, strow on sugar, and send them up, for second course, in a common dyet.
To make a Florendine, or a Made-dish of a Calves Chaldron.
TAke one that is very fat and boyl it: mince it very small, with Time, Parslee, a handful of Spinnage, and a few other sweet herbs; mince all these very small, with a couple of Pippins, then put to them some grated bread, more or less, according to the fatness or leanness of your Chaldron: season it with Cinamon, Cloves, Mace, Salt, Nurmeg and Ginger: then break in half a dozen yolks of eggs, and two whites: mingle all together, with a good quantity of Currans, [Page 37] according as you put to Mince-pyes: all these ingredients being well mixed, and your sheet of Paste in the bottom of your dish, lay your meat on it, but do not over-charge the dish, leave room that the fat boyls not over the brims thereof: then lay over it Dates, Marrow, and Raisons of the Sun; so close it up, and bake it: scrape on Sugar, and send it up for the first course dish. If you have a mind to make a pye, or Mince-pyes with the said meat, you need leave out nothing but the eggs: Again, you ought to put into your Mince-pyes a lear of Verjuice; After this manner may you bake Calfs-feet.
To make a Made-dish of Apples and Red Currans.
BOyl up your sliced Apples in a little water and Sugar; let them boyl until the Apples have soaked up all the liquor, and begins to be dryish: then beat in a Morter a pinte of red Currans, or more, put the Apples and them together, with the yolks of four eggs, and whites of two: boyl up a quart of Cream, and thicken it up with your eggs: put your Apples and Currans into your dish on a sheet of Paste, and lay on more sugar, close it, carve your Paste on the brims: cover your Florendine with another dish, and bake your Paste in a soft Oven: when your Paste is dry, take off your dish, and let it bake awhile gently; then when your Cream is cold, put in part of it, and mingle it together: let it stand a little in the Oven: then scrape on sugar, and send it up for a second course dish: You may only make it with the Currans and Apples with Sugar, Cinamon, and Rose-water: so let it stand in the Oven for about half an hour while the Paste is dry, and serve it up with a cut: It ha [...]h a very good taste, and an excellent colour; and it is the better way.
To make a Made-dish of Artichokes.
BOyl up about a pinte and half of Cream, with two eggs as before, with a little whole Cinamon, Rose-water and Sugar: then slice five or six Artichokes very thin, season them with Cinamon and sugar: and season the Marrow of three or four Marrow-bones, in pieces as big as your thumb, your dish having a garnish opposite on the brims: butter it in the bottom, then lay a laying of Artichokes all over: strow on the parboyled Currans, and spread over it a laying of marrow: then pour on that a ladleful or two of Cream, and let it congeal [...]ogether a little in the Oven: take it out, and lay over another laying of Artichokes, with Marrow, Currans and Cream, as you did before; so bake it, stick it over with Almonds, and send it up with a cut over it: You may make Florendines with Poratoes, [Page 38] Wardens, Quinces, or Pears: but by what you have already read, you may be able to perform according to their several Natures.
To make forced meats.
TAke a piece of a Fillet of Veal, and a little piece of Westphalie Bacon boyled, and a piece of Bacon larded, a little Beef suet: (the lean more in quantity then the fat) mince them altogether: with one handful of sweet herbs, with some onions, (minced) added to them: seasoned with Cloves, Mace and Nutmeg beaten: put as many raw yolks of eggs into at, as will make it up into a stiff body: you may mingle amongst it, Pine-Apples and Pistatious. Add salt to your seasoning: this being rouled in the yolks of eggs, is your savory forced meat: And you may use it with any savoury baked or boyled meats, as you shall hereafter hear.
To make part of the said forced meats green for your use.
TAke Spinnage, scalded in boyling water, turn it out into a Cullender, and scruise out the water, then mince it small, and mingle it with so much of the forced meat, as you intend to use: you may also mince a handful of Spinnage and Parslee very small: and when you have made your small Balis of forced meat, as big, or little as you please; dip them in the yolks of eggs, and roul them in your green herbs, so that a quick boyling will make them as green as the herbs.
Another forced meat.
TAke a piece of a leg of Veal, or any other flesh cut out of the skin, that you intend to force: mince it with a quantity of Beefsuet and sweet-herbs, seasoned with Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg and Cinamon beaten: add to it a little Sugar, Rose-water, and one handful of Barberries, a little Salt: make it into a body with the yolks of eggs, and you may put in the whites of half of them, in this forced meat: It is necessary you put in dryed Cittron and Orangado, minced very small: you may green what part of it you please, as you did the other: this serves for your sweet boyled meats, or baked meats of flesh: or to force any thing that you would dress sweet, to please some palates, if desired.
BOOK VI.
Containing strong Broths, and Pottages, with other preparations of Cookery.
To make Strong Broth for your use in dressing of meat.
TAke a leg of Veal, or other knuckles of Mutton and Veal, being well soaked in divers waters, and the blood dryed clean out: put it a boyling in fair Running-water: keep it scumming during the boyling: when it is almost boyled, you may add a faggot of sweet herbs, large Mace, and a little Salt: your meat may be used for service, but preserve your Broth in a Pipkin.
An excellent Cordial Broth.
TAke a Cock or two, cut off their wings and legs: cleanse all the blood out of the inside, parboyle them very well, that when they are boyled, there may arise no more scum: then wash them again in fair water, put them in a pitcher with a pinte of Rhenish wine, and as much of your aforesaid strong Broth as will cover them, add thereto a few Cloves, large Mace, sliced Ginger and Nutmeg, a little whole white Pepper, if desired, with a small quantity of Chainie, and an onnce or two of Harts-horn; put in a little Salt, and stop up your pitcher close, that no steam may come forth: then having a Pot over the fire, let your Pitcher boyl therein about six hours, then pour out your Broth through a strainer, into a bason and scruise in the juice of two or three Lemmons: this may be heated as you have occasion. It is not only Cordial, but good against a Consumption also.
To make a Pottage of broth, to serve up with a Bisk, or grand boyled meat.
WHen you boyl up your Fowl, or other meat for that purpose, you may use the strong Broth (before cited) and boyl as much meat therein, as you have when it is at the full strength; take a quart the [...]eof; add a pinte of gravie drawn with wine, half a dozen of Anchovies, two or three whole Onions a quarter of a pinte of Oyster liquor, one handful of Raspine of your French Bread, the juice [Page 40] of two or three Lemmons; the yolks of a couple of eggs beaten into it, when you are ready to use it, with a sliced Nutmeg; so draw it up all together; this is a Pottage or Broth fitting for savoury boyled meats; if you please, you may use some herbs in the said Broth, for some of your boyled meats; as Spinnage, Sorrel. Endiff, Lettice, Purslin, or the like; however forget not some faggots of sweet herbs in the boyling of it up: This is a rich Broth, with a very high hogo.
Another way.
TAke a quart of strong Broth, put to it four whole Onions, a faggot or two of sweet herbs, some large Mace, a handful of Goosberries, with Lettice and Endiff hackt, the yolks of two eggs beaten in half a pinte of white-wine, two Lemmons, cut dice wayes; when your Broth is boyled with your herbs, put in your eggs and wine, adding to it a sliced Nutmeg; so draw it up till it boyls; then cast in a ladleful of drawn butter; if it should be too thick, you may add any quantity of Broth you please to it; this is a savoury sharp Broth, and may be served up with Veal, or Mutton, or what Fowl you please. But let not your Goosberries be boyled too much, for fear they turn to mash.
To make a Broth or Pottage, called Skinck.
TAke a leg, or legs of Beef, according to the quantity of broth you would have; cut off the meat in pieces bigger then an egg; break the bone in pieces, let them lye a soaking in water, washing and cleansing it clean from the blood; put it in your Pot, and a little more then cover it with water; set it over the fire, watch the boyling and scumming thereof; then put a quantity of Pepper tyed up in a rag or cloth, and when it is above half boyled, add four whole Onions, a little Cloves and Mace whole, a Race or two of Ginger sliced; take forth a ladleful thereof, and steep a ragg full of Saffron in it, bruise it with the handle of your knife, until you have coloured it, or the vertue of the Saffron gone; then put in the ladleful of Broth again, and let it boyl until your meat be exceeding tender, or to the consuming of half your Broth; season it with salt to your pallate, and dish it up on sippets of French bread, with some of the meat in the middle of the dish; this is the Skinck; but you may alter it; sometimes by putting a handful or two of chopt clove-Cabbage; otherwise by bruised Spinnage and Endiff cut; your herbs in this case must not be shred small; you may add sliced Manchet to it [Page 41] which way you please. If you put in any of these, they must boyl out their time, which is about half an hour, otherwise they will lose their colour.
To make white Broth.
TAke a pinte or a quart of white-wine, put it on the fire in a Pipkin, with three or four quartered Pippins, being pared, eight Dates cut in halves, a faggot of sweet herbs, large Mace, whole Cinamon, a quartered Nutmeg; let them all boyl together; (if you want liquor, add a pinte of strong Broth) take the Marrow of three Marrow-bones, put it also in (when your aforesaid Broth boyls) but if you please, wrap it up in the yolks of eggs, and a little grated bread, lest it melt away; then take the yolks of four eggs well beaten with wine, or strong Broth; (your Broth and ingredients being boyled) stir it therein; so season it to your pallate with white Sugar, and take it off the fire; some add a pinte of Cream to the eggs, but there is great danger therein, that it turns when the wine and Cream comes together; let both of them be boyled first, and almost cold before you compound them together; then you may set them on, and heat it again, by a continual stirring of them together; this Broth you may serve up with boyled Capons or Chickens; garnish the Marrow and Dates upon the breast; you may if you please use Spanish Potatoes boyled and sliced, or skirrets in this Broth; but for dishing and sending away your meat, you may see further in the Book of boyled meats.
To make Stewed-Broth.
TAke your shins of Beef or Mutton, otherwise what meat is allowed, being washed and set on, scum it clean; then slice your brown bread, and soak it in the said Broth; when it is so soaked, rub it through a strainer with your hands, put in as much as you judge will make your Broth thick in the boyling; when it is half boyled, add thereto your Raisons, Currans and Pruins, according to the quantity of your Broth, with beaten Cloves, Mace, Cinamon and Ginger; taking a good quantity of your Pruins up when they are boyled, mash them together, and strain them as you did the bread with Clarret; so let it continue till its boyled, then season it further with Sugar and Rose-water, and serve it up with some of the best of your meat.
Another, a Consumption Broth.
TAke the Broth that certain pieces of Marrow-bones have been boyled in, which you may have for nothing at any Feast; boyl therein a great quantity of great Turnips: when they are boyled, press out all the liquor out of them, and put it again into the pot: then take two red old Cocks, scalded, beaten to pieces with the back of a Cleaver: then put them into the said Broth with a pair of Calves-feet; let them boyl together, being well scummed: when they are half-boyled, put in some Raisons of the Sun stoned, sliced Lickerish, a few Anniseeds, with a handful of Pine-apples and Pistatious beaten in a Morter: then put in Cloves, Mace, and Nutmeg, adding to it a pinte of red wine: when this meat is boyled all to pieces, strain it forth into your Bason or Pipkin: then put to it white Sugar-candy: and you may clarifie it too with the whites of eggs when you boyl it again (if your mind be to have it clear) and so run it through your jelly-bags: you may take this Morning, Evening or Noon (the Dose being a quarter of a pinte.)
To make Red Pottage.
TAke a hanch of Venison, cut him in five or six pieces, and place them in the botom of a pot or pan: then do more then cover it with fair water; after it boyls, and is scummed, add to it a good quantity of whole Pepper, and when it is half enough, put in four whole Onions, Cloves and large Mace, of each a little, sliced Ginger and Nutmeg, three or four faggots of sweet herbs, (with good store of Time in the faggots) let it boyl together until the Venison he very tender, and a good part of the Broth consumed: so done, pour out the Broth from the meat into another Pipkin; keep your Venison hot in the same Pot, either by being covered, or adding other hot Broth: then take a couple of great red Beet-roots, being above half boyled before, cut them in square pieces, three times so big as Dice, and put them into your Broth taken from the Venison; then set it over the fire again, and let it remain there until the roots are boyled tender, but not masht to pieces; only add more in the boyling four Anchovies minced, then dish up your Venison on sippets of light bread, in order as it was in the hanch: then pour in your Broth, so much as will almost fill the dish: then take your roots by themselves, and toss them in a little drawn Butter, and lay them all over the Venison: you may make use of boyled Colly flowers, to garnish it out further if you please. Let your red Broth be seen round about the [Page 43] dish sides: if the Beet be good, it will be red enough: if not, you ought to colour it with Sanders: this is savoury red Pottage, and to be esteemed above the Venison.
I have explained this here for the Broths sake rather then for the boyled-meats: in that Book I shall also speak of more variety of Broths.
Another Broth.
TAke a pottle of strong Broth, infuse twelve sliced Onions therein▪ this Broth may you use to make any of your sauces for wild-fowl, and to draw gravie out of your meat: you may add to it a piece of Lemmon-pill, and a faggot of sweet herbs.
How to draw gravie.
WHen your meat is above half roasted, put underneath thereof a dish with a good quantity of the Onion Broth (before cited) then you may stab and cut your meat, when you think the gravie will run best: so lade on your Broth on the meat, to draw down the gravie: and likewise White-wine or Clarret, if you have it: when your gravie meat is roasted enough, cut it off, and press it, that you may lose none of the gravie thereof: so preserve this gravie in your Pipkin, adding half a dozen of Anchovies, with a little Nutmeg to each quart or three pintes of gravie; you may also put some Oyster-liquor therein: this will be called for in your Feasts, to use for sauce for much of your meat, especially your Range.
How to draw Butter.
TAke a quarter of a pinte of strong Broth, and put it into a Pan or Pipkin: break in two pound of butter, set it upon a heap of coals, keeping of it drawing or stirring with a Ladle; then break in two pound more, or as many as you have occasion for, so you add liquor proportionable to it; still keep it drawing up to the end, till it be dissolved: when it looks white, thick and smooth it is in a good condition, and you need not fear the oyling of it: but if it looks yellow and curdled, you will hardly recover it, but it will oyl.
How to Recover it.
TAke a ladleful of strong Broth, put it on the fire in another Pipkin, then put to it half a pound of Butter in pieces, and when it is drawn white, you must pour in your oylie Butter; and as you pour it, be sure to keep it alwayes stirring together; see that the oylie Butter overcomes not the drawn Butter, by putting it in too fast: but in case you have no Butter in the house, yet there is a way to fetch the oylie Butter again; let it settle in a cold thing for a pretty while, then pour forth the most oylie of it, leaving the dreggs and whey behind, add a little strong Broth to the said dreggs, and put it on a hot heap of coals, and ladle it up until it become like to drawn Butter in a body; then take it off the fire, still keeping it drawing and stirring; in the mean time, pour in the oylie Butter very softly; so set it on the fire and draw it, and when it becomes strong, take it off and pour in your oyl again, so that the lesser may comprehend the greater, and draw it all into a body again.
How to make Barley Broth.
TAke a knuckle of Veal, and a neck of Mutton, cut your Mutton in pieces, put them in a Pot with asmuch water as will contain to boyl them; then take a quarter of a pound of French Barley, having had two or three walms before, in two or three several waters; so put it out of your Cullender; and put it into your meat, scum your Broth well when it boyls; put in two or three great Onions, two or three faggots of sweet herbs and Parslee, almost one pound of Raisons of the Sun, some whole Cloves, large Mace, two races of Ginger, a piece of Lemmon-pill; season it with salt, and let it boyl soberly until it be enough; so serve up your meat with Raisons and Barley on the top of it, and garnish your dish with Raisons; But if you please to have it with herbs, you may add Endiff and Spinnage hacked with a knife, and put it in a quarter of an hour before it be enough, or in the Summer, you may use Lettice, Purslin, or any other good herbs.
BOOK VII.
Which teacheth to make all manner of hot boyled meats of Flesh.
How to make a Bisk.
THere is a grand boyled meat, called a Bisk, and it is much mended by the English, of what was practised by the French, according to their Original, because an English man never thinks a thing well, nor rich enough, but usually doth augment according to reason, and disalloweth of unnatural compositions. The best way for dressing the said dish, now in use, and allowed, is, That you take all the choicest wild-fowl, and tame-fowl, of the smaller sort; the biggest that is to be made use of, is a Capon or Pullet, to be forced; Put the said fowl (that you make choice of) a boyling, with a piece of good Bacon, belonging to the rib; then having your forced meat in balls, about the bigness of an egg, but longer, rouled up in the yolks of eggs (as is shewn in the Book of Forced meats) put twenty of the said Balls in the aforesaid Fowl; you may wrap up some of the same Balls in the Caul of Veal, after the same bigness and length; then charge a second Pipkin with Lamb-stones, sweet-breads, Lambs-tongues larded on both sides; these must first be all fryed brown, only scorcht, not thorrow, before they are put into the Pipkin; put to them blanched Cocks-combs and sliced pallets; let them simber up in strong Broth, and a little white-wine; add two or three whole Onions, a little large Mace and Nutmeg; then charge your third Pipkin, with bottoms of Artichokes cut in quarters, and the Marrow of four or five bones; let them boyl with strong Broth; then having all your Fowl drawn, and trussed, whether peeping Chickens, squab Pigeons, or in season, Plovers, Partridge, Ruffs, Knotts, Godweaths, Quails, Larks, or any other; your proportion in these being trussed, parboyled, and made ready, boyl them up according to their time of boyling, either in water and salt, or strong Btoth; let all these ingredients be ready together, then having your great Charger, with a soop and light bread in sippets, then dish up your Capon (or great Fowl) in the middle of your dish, and place your worser Fowl round about, and your next sort towards the brim of [Page 46] the dish, and your best and smallest sort on the top of all; your forced meat between the Fowl and round the dish; and your Lambstones and sweet-breads in every vacant place; then slit your Lambstongues in halves, and put them in the most necessary place, with the larded side upwards; so put your Pallets and Cocks-combs between and about the whole, as also your Artichokes and Marrow about the top of the boyled meats; then take your Bisk Broth, being boyling hot, adding half a pinte of Clarret gravie thereto, pour it all over your boyled meat; you may garnish your boyled meat with fryed Bacon, fryed Potatoes, fryed Oysters, and all over with sliced Lemmon; then strow it over with one handful of Pistatious Kernels; you may make this Bisk lesser, or bigger, as you please.
To make a brown Bisk.
TAke all your aforesaid Fowl, or what Fowl you have, and half roast them; (yet let their breast be a yellowish brown) put them into your Pipkin, with strong Broth; and likewise all your other ingredients mentioned in the other Bisk (except your Marrow and Artichokes) season this your great Pipkin with Mace, Nutmeg, half a dozen of Onions, some faggots of sweet herbs, with a dozen Anchovies; let these stew all up together; put a ladleful or two of drawn butter to them; then having your soop in your Charger upon a heap of coals, dish up your grossest Fowl in the middle, and all your other round, as flat as you can; and your most gross ingredients between, and your most best over all: In these boyled meats, you may use both Mushroms and Oysters stewed up in gravie, cast this over your boyled meat: so lear your boyled meat as before; and garnish it about the brims with Petteets, and Bacon fryed brown in eggs, with sliced Lemmon on the top; strow over it all yolks of eggs minced small. In this way of boyling, Reason must guide you, to know what Fowl or Ingredient will ask most boyling, and what least; and so boyl up the whole accordingly.
To make an Olue.
IN this Olue, you must take all manner of Fowl that is allowed you, both great and small; some whereof you may force, others you may lard; these being all roasted, take a gammon of Bacon, that is well boyled, skinned and larded with Lemmon-pill and age, wash it over with the yolks of eggs, and strow thereon minced Sage, Pepper, and hard yolks of eggs: then having another Pipkin cha [...]ged with balls of forced meat, Saffages, Lamb-stones, and sweet-breads, [Page 47] Artichokes in quarters, and what other Ingredients, or varieties you have, Let them all boyle up together in strong broth, with a faggot of sweet herbs, Large Mace, and two or three Onions: your Gammon of Bacon being Roasted for the space of an hour: Else baked in an Oven: Dish it up in the middle of your dish, and your fowl in order round about your forced meat, and Sassages place likewise round about, and between the fowl: your other Ingredients all over your Olue in vacant places: Let your Leare be half a pint of gravy, and some of your strong broth, boyled up with some Anchovies, and three or four whole Onions, with some grated Nutmegg; so pour it all over your Olue, and garnish it with sliced Lemmon.
How to force all manner of Meats.
SUppose you have a desire to force a legg of Mutton, or Lamb, or any such like meat, you must let you knife run round betwixt the skin and flesh of your legg of Mutton, (or other meat) take heed you cut not the outward skin: Cut out all the meat from the bone within the legg: then wash your legg in the In-side with the yolks of eggs, being seasoned after your forced meat is made, as before was taught: you may force it savoury or sweet, at your pleasure: And when its full in the room of your flesh, wash it at the butt end with the yolks of eggs; And close your skin to the forced meat, in the form as it was at first; so set it on a piece of a Caul of Veal, in the dish or pan you intend to bake it in, wash it over the top with the yolks of eggs; and let it bake soberly: then you may make both of your white and green forced meat, as many proportions of birds, in the manner of Pigeons, Quails, or Plovers, as you please, washing them over with the yolk of eggs: So if you have the heads of any of the fowl before mentioned, joyn them on with your Proportions, with the yolks of eggs: your legg of Mutton being half baked, put them in the same pan, or into some other, in the Oven; when it is baked, you may dish up your legg of Mutton, with the greatest proportions next round about it, and the lesser to garnish your dish about the brims; In the baking thereof you should put some Wine or strong broth, being thickned up with a yolk or two of an egg, will serve for a leare to put over it, so garnish it.
Your Leare for your sweet forced meats.
TAke a little strong broth, White wine, or Verjuice, Sugar, Cinamon, and Nutmeg; one handfull of stript Barberies, a Lemmon cut in dice or slices; thicken it up with the yolks of two or three eggs; when it boyleth, put therein a Ladle full of drawn butter, and pour it over your forced meat. If you force Fowl, you must cut the flesh from the breast of both sides your Fowl, up to the brest bone, so let your knife run betwixt the flesh and the skin, meeting at the breast-bone, rounding of the flesh, take it out: Let the breast-bone continue, and the skin that groweth on the top of it, and take heed you cut no holes in the skin: Wash it in the inside with the yolks of eggs where the meat is taken out; And force it again, with a sweet, or savoury, which you please. After this manner, must you force all Fowl.
How to make a forced boyled meat.
YOu may force one Capon, three Chickens, and three Pigeons, and some thin Collops of Veal; first let your Capon be half boyled, and more; then put in your forced fowl, and as many of the same kind unforced; your Collops of Veal being seasoned, and washt over with yolks of eggs, and rouled up with forced meat, put them in also, bound up with a thred; boyl a quantity of forced meat balls, both green and white, by themselves, (about the bigness of a little egg) in a pipkin; your dish being laid with Sippits; put your Capon in the middle thereof, with the six forced fowl round about; and the unforced fowl between, your forced Collops, (which ought all to be larded) cut in the middle, and varnished in all the vacant places among the sowl, as also your green, and white forced balls, round about the dish, between, and upon the fowl, your proportion of Birds (as before tought) round about the brims of your dish; if your fowl was forced savoury, you must have a savoury Leare made with Gravie and some of your strong broth, Oyster Liquor, and Anchovies dissolved, beaten up with the yolk of an egg: when you Boyle it, pour this over your Boyled meat: Then strow it all over with Westphalie Bacon cut very small; Garnish it over likewise with Lemmon and Barberries at your pleasure.
Your Leare and garnish for sweet forced boyled meat of the same kinde of Fowl.
TAke half a pinte of strong Broth, and as much Verjuce; put them over the fire, add thereto a quantity of Barberries, one handful of Grapes, or Goosberries (if in season) the yolks of three eggs beaten up in a little white-wine, season it with Sugar, Nutmeg, and Cinamon, (beaten) draw it up, and pour it over your boyled meat; stick your boyled meat with sprigs of Paste, garnish it over with Barberries, red Currans, Lemmon, or what you please.
To boyl Capons or Chickens in white Broth.
BOyl up your Fowl white in strong Broth, if you have it, otherwise in fair water and salt, with a faggot of sweet herbs, and large Mace; your dish being sippeted, and garnished with Barberries boyled up (and Lemmon) lay your Fowl therein, and pour on your Broth and ingredients; as is shewn in another place.
To boyl a Hanch of Venison.
YOu may farce your Venison, with a handful of sweet herbs and Parslee minced, with a little Beef-suet, and yolks of eggs boyled hard; season your farceing with Pepper, Nutmeg, Ginger, and Salt; put your Hanch of Venison a boyling (being powdered before) then boyl up three or four Colly-flowers in strong Broth, and a little Milk: when they are boyled, put them forth into a Pipkin; add to them drawn butter, and keep them warm by the fire; then boyl up two or three handfuls of Spinnage in strong Broth; when it is boyled, pour out part of your broth, and put in a little Vinegar, a ladleful of drawn butter, and a grated Nutmeg; your dish being ready with sippets in the bottom, put in your Spinnage thereon round towards your dishes side; then take up your Venison being boyled, and put it in the middle of your dish, and put on your Colly-flowers all over it; pour on your drawn [Page 50] butter over your Colly-flowers; garnish it with Barberries, and the brims of your dish with some green Parslee minced. In the same manner may it be done with Cabbage.
To boyl Legs, Necks, or Chines of Mutton, four wayes.
YOu may lard your Mutton with a little Lemmon-pill, boyl it in water and salt, with a faggot or two of sweet herbs: then take a pinte of Oysters, being washed and set; put to them some of their own liquor in a clean Pipkin, a a little strong Broth, and half a pinte of gravie, as much white-wine, put to them two or three whole Onions, and a little quantity of Time, grated Nutmeg, and three Anchovies, let them boyl together, beat up two or three yolks of eggs in a little of the said Broth, and draw it up thick, with a ladleful of drawn butter amongst it: dish up any of the said meat upon sippets, and pour on your Leare, with your Oysters on the top: garnish it with Lemmon and Barberries, and send it up.
Another way.
TAke half a handful of Sampier, a handful of Capers, a few sliced pickled Cowcumbers: put them in a little strong Broth, White-wine and Verjuice, let them boyl together, (put to them a Lemmon cut in Dice) when you bring them off, and a grated Nutmeg, beat them up thick, with two yolks of eggs, and a ladleful of drawn Butter: put therein a small quantity of Sugar, that it may be a sharp sweet; dish it upon sippets, pour on the Leare, garnish it with Barberries, Sampier and Capers, and serve, it up.
Another way.
CUt Turnips in square pieces, boyl up a pottle of them in a little strong Broth and Milk; when they are tenderly boyled, pour them forth into a Cullender, then having a great handful of Parslee boyled green, and chopr very small, with a handful of boyled Barberries, ungrated Nutmeg, and a little small Pepper, put these together [Page 51] with the Turnips, in a great Tinn dish: add to it two or three ladlefuls of drawn butter, a little Vinegar and strong Broth: set them upon the coals, and toss them up together: then dish up your meat, as before, and lay them all over by spoonfuls, Broth and all.
Another way to make a Leare for the said meat.
TAke a little white-wine and strong Broth, with six Onions minced exceeding small, boyl them well together; then put in some small bunches of grapes, and some loose, with a handful of minced Oysters, a handful of parboyled Parslee minced very small likewise, and a Nutmeg sliced, thicken it with the yolks of two eggs, so pour it all over your meat, garnish it with Grapes on the top of it; pour over all your Oysters a ladleful of drawn butter, and strow on the yolks of hard eggs minced small.
To boyl a leg of Veal and Bacon.
LArd your leg of Veal with Bacon all over, and a little Lemmon-pill amongst it, then boyl it with a piece of middle Bacon; when your Bacon is boyled, cut it in slices, season it with Pepper and dryed Sage mixed together; dish up your Veal with the Bacon round about it; send up with it, saucers of Green-sauce, strow over it Parslee and Barberries.
To make your Green-sauce two wayes.
1. TAke a handful or two of Sorrell, beat it in a Morter, with two Pippins pared and quartered; add thereto a little Vinegar, and Sugar; this is your Green-sauce to send in Saucers.
2. Take two handfuls of Sorrel, beat it well in a Morter, scruse out the juice of it, put thereto a little Vinegar, Sugar, drawn butter, and a grated Nutmeg; set it on the coals until it is hot, and pour it into your dish on your sippets; so dish up your Veal and Bacon.
To boyl a breast of Veal.
BOne your breast of Veal, and beat it well, then wash and dry it, having one handful of sweet herbs, Parslee and a little Sage, minced small, with a small quantity of Cloves, Mace, and Nutmeg beaten, adding to it a little salt; wash over the inside of your Veal with the yolks of eggs, and strow your herbs all over it, and lay over it some slices of Bacon, dipt in the yolks of eggs, so roul it up into a Coller, and bind it with Tape; boyl it with a piece of middle Bacon; when it is enough, cut out your Coller in eight slices, and dish it on sippets; slice out your Bacon in the same number, dished between your Veal; let your Lear be made with gravie and strong Broth, with a sliced Nutmeg, drawn up thick with drawn butter, and the yolk or two of an egg, pour it over your meat; garnish it with slices of Bacon, fryed up in yolks of eggs.
To boyl a Knuckle of Veal, with the Neck cut in five pieces to be served in Broth.
LArd the pieces of the Neck with Lemmon; put it a boyling in fair water, or strong Broth (if you have it) let it be clean scummed; put therein a faggot of sweet herbs, a little large Mace; when it is almost boyled, put in some small forced meat balls, both green and white, two handfuls of Spinnage, with one Manchet in slices; when it is enough, dish up your Knuckle upon sippets in the middle of your dish, and the pieces round about, with the forced meat between, and the herbs and broth over your meat; you may lay on slices of Bacon, if you please.
To boyl a leg of Pork.
LEt your leg of Pork be well powdered for a week, then boyl it, and having a handful of boyled Sage, minced very small, put it into a little strong Broth with butter and Pepper; then let your Turnips be boyled, as before for your leg of Mutton; toss your Sage and them together, with more drawn butter; dish up your Pork, and lay on [Page 53] your Turnips over it; you may stuff your leg of Pork first with Parslee and Sage, and boyl it up with Cabbage; after the same manner, being chopt a little, and tost up in drawn butter.
To boyl Capons or Hens for the Winter-season.
AFter your Capons or Hens are boyled, with a piece of bacon; take a pinte of strong Broth and white-wine: put in a pound of Sassages, two or three whole Onions, a little Nutmeg and large Mace, a faggot of sweet herbs, a quart of Oysters, a little minced Time; let them boyl up together; thicken them with the yolk of an egg, and a little drawn butter: dish up your Capons or Pullets on your sippets: then pour on your Lear and Oysters upon the breasts and the Sassages round about, with slices of Bacon betwixt: garnish them with Lemmon: strow them over with the yolks of hard eggs minced.
Another way with Mushroms.
IF you gather your Mushroms, peel off the outward skin, and barb them underneath, throw them into water: then take them up, and put them in a Tinn dish, put to them some whole Pepper, Mace, and three or four whole Onions: set them on the fire for a while, and there will run from them much liquor: stir them about in the said liquor; when they are well shrunk, pour the liquor from them, and put to them a little white-wine, and strong Broth, Oyster liquor, with three or four Anchovies, a little minced Time and sliced Nutmeg: add to them half a pinte of the best gravie, thicken the liquor with the yolks of two eggs beaten, and a little drawn butter: your Capons or Pullets being dished upon sippets, toss up your Mushroms, and pour them on your Capons garnished with Lemmon.
To boyl Chickens.
BOyl your Chickens in water and salt, with a faggot of sweet herbs, and large Mace; put in a piece of butter, keep them white; then take a little strong Broth and white-wine [...], some bunches of Grapes; when they are boyled together, put in a sliced Nutmeg, the yolk of an egg to make it thick, with a handful of Parslee scalded and minced, with a ladleful of drawn butter; so dish up your Chickens, and pour on your Lear; garnish them with Lemmon, and put your bunches of Grapes on the breasts of the Chickens.
Another way.
TAke half a pinte of the juice of Sorrell, set it on the fire, then take three or four bunches of Sparragrass, (being already boyled, but not too much) cut off the buds so long as your finger, then cut off another cut from your Sparragrass, if they be not stalky, put them into your Sorrell that is heating on the fire, and with them a ladleful of drawn butter, and grated Nutmeg, a little set Parslee minced; if you add a little Vinegar, you must do the like with Sugar, that it be not too sharp, neither must it be too sweet: Set your dish with sippets on a heap of coals (which you ought to do with all your meat) put strong Broth to your sippets, that the fire may make them swell, dish up your Chickens, shake your Lear together, put the Sparragrass on the breasts, with a little drawn butter thereon.
Another way.
TAke your bottoms of Artichokes (being already almost boyled) cut them in slices (not too thin) then take the marrow of two or three Marrow-bones, and boyl it in a little white-wine and strong Broth; put in your Artichokes, and let them boyl together until they be enough, thicken it with a little drawn butter, and the yolk of an egg; cut your Chickens in halves, and dish them on your [Page 55] sippets; so take out your Marrow and Artichokes, with your little ladle, and lay it all over the Chickens; then pour in your Lear, and a little drawn butter thereon, set them on the coals, and grate on a Nutmeg all over your boyled meat; this you may do in Winter as well as Summer, having pickled Artichokes by you.
Another way.
TAke Shirdowns, and boyl them as you do Artichokes; take likewise the stalks of them, being cut a handful and half long; split them in the middle, and peel off the out-side, and boyl them pretty tender; then take them out, and put them into a Pipkin, with the Shirdowns, being quartered; put to them a glass of Sack, as much white-wine, and the like of strong Broth (from your Chickens, if you have no stronger) let them boyl until they are very tender, with a blade or two of Mace, some set Parslee minced, and a ladleful of drawn butter; when they come off the fire, add some Vinegar and a very little Sugar, that may hardly be tasted; set your dish on the coals, with sippets in the bottom, dish up your Chickens cut in halves; lay on your Shirdowns and stalks all over them: pour on your Lear, with a little drawn butter on the top.
Another way to boyl Pulletts and Chickens for the Winter.
BOyl your Spanish Potatoes, but not too much, then cut them to pieces about the bigness and length of your thumb; then take a handful or two of Skirretts, boyled and blanched, with two or three pills of Orangado, sliced in pieces long wayes; put them altogether into a Pipkin, with a little strong Broth, White-wine, and Vinegar, a blade of Mace, let them boyl together; then beat them up with the yolks of two eggs, and a ladleful of drawn butter, and a little Sugar; when you take them off the fire, put in a grated Nutmeg, dish up your Pullets or Chickens on sippets, lay all over them your Potatoes, Skirretts and Orangado mixed together; pour on your Lear, and garnish it as you do your sweet boyled meats, with Orangado and Barberries.
Another way.
TAke your Cabbage Lettice, cut out the hard Cabbage thereof; force your outward leaves (dipt in the yolks of eggs) with your savoury forced meats; then make your forced meat Balls green and white; when your strong Broth boyls, put in your forced Lettice, and afterwards your small Balls; then take the hard of your Cabbage Lettice, and some curled Endiff, and give it a quick boyling in strong Broth; when it is almost boyled, quarter your Lettice, and cut your Endiff as long as your finger; put it into a Pipkin with half a pinte of gravie seasoned, a spoonful or two of Vinegar, and a little strong Broth; you may add an Anchovie, with a grated Nutmeg, and a ladleful of drawn butter; if it be not thick to your mind, you must help it with the yolk of an egg; then dish up your Pullets, or Capons; take up your Cabbage-Lettice, cut them in the middle, and place them round about your dish, as also your green and white forced meat, then pour on your Lear with your Endiff and Lettice upon the breast of your Fowl; you may garnish your dish with a Cowcumber boyled and forced; after the meat is taken forth, cut it in pieces, and lay it round the dish.
To boyl wild-Ducks, Wigeons or Teal.
FIrst half roast them; then take them off, and put them in a shallow broad pan that will contain them, with a pinte of Clarret-wine, and a pinte of strong Broth, a dozen of Onions cut in halves, a faggot or two of sweet herbs, with a little whole Pepper, and some slices of Bacon: cover your pan, and let them stove up: add gravie to part of the liquor at the last, so much as will serve to dish them: garnish them with the Bacon and Onions, if you please.
Another way.
TAke Clarret-wine, and strong Broth, as before, slice in half a dozen Onions, and let it boyl together: then put in the quarters of half a dozen Pippins (pared) two or three blades of large Mace: and when your Ducks or Wigeons be half roasted, cut them in halves, and put them in, and then stove them up together, until they are enough; put a ladleful of drawn butter to them, and a grated Nutmeg: dish up your Ducks, &c. on sippets, pour on your Lear, and let your quartered Apples lye all over your Fowl, garnish it over with Bacon fryed yellow with eggs, and strow it over with hard yolks of eggs minced: You may also use savoury forced meat, and Sassages in the boyling of these: however neglect not the larding of them, before you roast them: this way of boyling will serve both for Duck, Teal, or Wigeon, being much of a nature.
To boyl Rabbets.
YOu must truss them for boyling, by pricking down the head to the shoulders, and their hinde legs toward the belly: you may lard them with Bacon, and boyl them up white: take the Livers, being boyled, mince it small with a little boyled fat Bacon, cut like Dice; put this in a little Wine, strong Broth and Vinegar, to the quantity of half a pinte: let it boyl with a little large Mace: then put into it a little set Parslee minced, a few Barberries: you may use Grapes if you have them: add thereto a ladleful or two of drawn butter; if it be too thick, or lack Lear, you may add a little more Vinegar and strong Broth: dish up your Rabbets on your sippets, and pour your Lear all over them, and garnish them with Lemmons and Barberries.
How to boyl Pigeons.
TAke Spear-mints, one handfull of Parslee, a few sweet herbs, with a small quantity of time, two or three Onions, mince all this together, very small: Put to it some thin slices of bacon, about an inch in length and bredth, add to it one handfull of grated bread, the yolk of an egg, and a little piece of hard butter; make up this into a body, and fill your Pigeons bellies therewith: then put them into a deep dish, with their bellies downwards, put to them a little white wine, strong broth, and vinegar, with two, or three whole Onions; let them boyl together; when they are boyled, take out the farst matter in their bellies; Put it in a pipkin, with some of your Pigeon broth; (you must not forget to have savoury forced meat both white and green, boyled up with the Pigeons) And as many slices of bacon (as you have Pigeons) being before boyled; put in a grated Nutmeg and a ladleful of drawn butter, with a handfull of scalded Goosberres if you have them, dish up your Pigeons round your dish, and a piece of bacon cut square, in the middle larded with Lemmon, and your force meat round your dish, and your other bacon between your Pigeons, then pour your Leer all over your boyled meat, with a ladle of drawn butter on the top of that, and strow it over with Westphalie bacon minced; the common way of boyling Pigeons or an old Coney may be used, which is, to stuff their bellies with parslee, and a little onion; And when they are boyled, to be taken out and minced, and put into butter and vinegar; so poured over your Pigeons and Bacon.
To boyl Plovers.
YOu must almost roast them, then stew them up in strong broth, and gravy with three or four whole Onions, good store of small force meats balls; and Sassages, two or three Anchovies; when they are enough, add to them a grated Nutmeg, and a ladle of drawn butter; to this kind of boyled meat you may use Lamb stones, sweet breads, and Pallets, so dish up your Plovers, and order your Ingredients round about, as you have seen in other boyled meats.
To boyl Caponets or Pullets.
TAke two or three according to the greatness of your feast, or dishes: take a Gammon of Westphalie bacon, boyled very tender, and about half a dozen of Marrow bones, trimmed with a cleaver; that is to say, Cut off both ends of the bones that they may not be cumbersome, then cut them round in the middle as you ought (and use to cut a marrow bone) All these Ingredients being boyled, (only the Gammon of bacon by its self,) you must have in readiness a pipkin full of parboyled spinnage, with a good quantity of parslee; (afterward stewed up in a little Wine, strong broth, adding to it a little Mace, Salt, and Nutmegg) then dish up one half of your spinnage, in the bottom of your dish on sippets; remember you put in it drawn butter and a little Vinegar, when you take it off the fire; your Gammon of bacon being blanched, lay it in the middle of your dish, then cleave your Caponets, or Pullets in the middle from the breast to the back, and place them round about your bacon, then place your Marrow bones between every side, and Sparagrass upon your Pullets, with toasts about your dish brims and Marrow bones: so put the rest of your spinnage, &c. by spoonfuls on the top of your bacon, and poure on drawn butter with a little very strong broth over your meat, and garnish it with Lemmons; you may make this boyled meat in the Winter season with Oysters, Lamb stones, sweet breads, pallets, fryed, and stewed up with Gravie, Claret wine, Anchovies, Nutmegg, Mace, Salt, a faggot or two of sweet herbs, and a [Page 60] couple of Onions, adding Pigeons or what other fowl you please; place all this upon, and about your Boyled meat, in the room of your soop or spinnage.
To make a forced boyled meat.
TAke six Chicken Peepers, as many squob Pigeons, and so many Quails, with what small fowl is in season, boyl them in water, salt, and sweet herbs: then take two dozen of Larks; Truss and farce them with a piece of Westphalie Gammon of Bacon minced with the yolks of hard eggs, parslee, Spinnage and Time, some grated bread and Nutmegg, made into a body with the yolks of raw eggs, then mince some parboyled Spinnage, and Parslee, and dip your Larks in the yolks of eggs, and roul them up and down in your green herbs; Let your Pipkin boyl with strong broth, and put them in, with about forty forced meat balls as big as a Walnut, green, and yellow; put to them about six sweet breads, as many Lamb-stones, two or three pallets sliced and fryed, some Artichokes cut in quarters, a handfull of Chestnuts, with Pistaches and Pineapples; then having about a dozen of Marrowbones cut in halfs, cleared from the flesh, and the ends of the bones Trimmed, close them on force meat balls with the yolks of raw eggs, that they may stand together upright, then stop your other bones with a little paste and eggs, and lay about them: bake them in an Oven, then force your half Orange, Lemmon, and Pomgranate Peels, and put them unto your bones before they are baked; your dish being ready with Sippets, put in the midle thereof your three Marrowbones upon forced meat balls; then lay your other bones round about by the sides, and your Chickens, Pigeons, Quails, or what ever fowl you have, between all: then pour out part of your Liquor, from your Larks and other Ingredients, and put in a pint of gravy, with four Anchovies, a handfull of Mushroms, a ladle of drawn butter, and a grated Nutmeg: Dish your green Larks all over your boyled meat, with all the rest of your Ingredients, so leare it, and slrow on Westphalie bacon minced small: garnish round, and upon your pills of Orange and Lemmon; and stick some branches of Rosemary on your Marrowbones [Page 61] standing upright, else some sprigs of Artificial Birds made with Almond paste; you may garnish the brims of your dish with toasts, and your boyled meat with sliced Lemmon.
To Boyl Ʋdders and Tongues.
WHen they are boyled enough in the Beef pot, and blancht, you must have your Turnips ready boyled, cut in pieces and tost in Butter, as also your Colly flowers and Carrets: put your Turnips all over the bottom of a large dish, then slice on your Tongue or Tongues, and lay them one against another, slice your Udders, and lay them between, opposite: garnish your Colly flowers all over them, and the Carrets up and down between your Colly flowers: you may add of the fat of your Pot if it be pure, unto your drawn Butter and Vinegar, and pour over it.
A Boyled meat after the French fashion.
TAke bottoms of boyled Artichokes, the yolks of hard eggs, young Chicken Peepers, and squob Pigeons, truss with Veal sweet breads, Lamb stones, Cocks stones and Combs, and knots of eggs, put all these into a Pipkin with strong broth, White wine, Salt, Pepper, Nutmegg, Mace, Butter, stew all these together softly, then boyl up your Marrow, in a little pipkin, with a handfull of Barberies, Grapes, or Goosberries, pour your liquor from your Marrow, and put in half a pinte of gravie, and aladle of drawn Butter, grated Nutmeg, and some Pistaches, when your pipkin is ready with the Ingredients; dish your fowl on Sippets, and place all your other on and between them, and your other Leare with Marrow, over your boyled meat, and lay Sparragrass round that, garnish it with Lemmon, and set it on coales till you send it up.
Another way according to the French fashion.
TAke part of a Capon minced and stampt with Almond paste, Muskified bisked bread, some yolks of hard eggs, and sweet herbs minced very small, some yolks of raw eggs, Saffron, Cinamon, Nutmeg, Currans, Salt, Marrow and Pistaches, mingle all these together, then take six Manchets of French bread of a day old chipt, cut a round hole in the tops of them, and save the peices, then take forth all the crum, and fill the said loaves with composition prepared, and stop them at the top with your pieces you saved, then bind it up in a clean cloth, and boyl them in a skillet, or bake them in an Oven: then take three Chickens and three Pigeons, and cut them down their backs, take off their skins without holes, with the leggs, wings and neck no: then force them with the flesh made into a savoury force meat, as elsewhere. When they are forced, sow up their backs, then put them into a deep dish with strong broth: you may boyl with them Quails, Martins, Sparrows, pieces of Artichokes, Sparragrass, Marrow, Pistaches, Pine apples: when all is ready dish your forced loaves, in the middle of your dish, the Chickens and Pigeons round about the Quails with other small birds, with your Marrow, Artichokes, or what other Ingredients you have in the Summer: to these and the like boyled meats, you may use Artichokes, Sparragrass, Collyflowers, Grapes or Goosberries, &c. but in Autumn, and Winter, you may use Skirretts, Potatoes, Dates, Chestnuts; to this Lear you may add gravie and drawn butter, unto your strong broth.
BOOK VIII.
Containing how to make several sorts of Puddings.
How to make a Quaking Pudding.
TAke a pinte of Cream, and a manchet grated: take three or four spoonfuls of the Cream, and mingle it with two spoonfulls of Rice flower, beat it into a batter so it doth not clod, put it into the aforesaid Cream, then beat six eggs, mix them all together, and beat them very well with a little Rose water, Nutmegg, Cloves, Mace, and Cinamon beaten, with a little salt; if it be too thick, you may add a little more Cream, then take a thick cloth washt over with butter; spread it over a narrow Bason, your Pudding being well beaten together, put it in gather up your Cloth close together, tying it hard with a packthred, giving it some liberty to rise: your liquor boyling very hard, take up your pudding in your hands, and turning it up and down, so that your bread and cream be mingled very well, then put it into your boyling Liquor; let it boyl for three quarters of an hour covered close, keep it constantly turning for the first quarter, but it must boyl fiercely, lest it soak water; when its enough take it up, open it and turn it forth into a dish; stick it all over with blancht Dates, and dried Cittern, all over; perfume a little Rose water with musk, with some Vinegar, drawn butter, and a good quantity of sugar; when its very hot, pour it on your pudding, scrape hard sugar on the brims of your dish, and send it up.
Another way.
TAke a light Manchet, slice it exceeding thin, put it into a Quart of Cream, then put it over the fire, and let it boyl with a stick or two of Cinamon; you may pour into it before it boyles, two spoonfulls of flower beat into a [Page 64] batter, and keep it stirred, then pour it forth into a bason, put to it a grated Nutmegg, a little Cinamon and Ginger, some Orangado, and dryed Cittern, cut very thin; when this is cold, put to it half a dozen eggs beaten, with some rosewater, and mix them all together; if it be too thick you may add more cream, so that it may become a quaking pudding when it is boyled (as the aforesaid.)
To make a dish of Puddings of several Colours.
TO this end you must have five or six dishes bespoke on purpose of the Turner with Covers to fit them; you must butter over all your dishes in the Inside; fill one of them with the Ingredients aforesaid, put on the Cover, and bind it down with a Cloth prepared for the same purpose, and packthred: take a quantity more of the said stuff, that will fill a dish, Colour it with Spinnage: if you think it will thin it too much, add part of an egg to it, and beat it together: Put on the Cover, and bind it up so that no water may run in, then take a handfull of Cowslips, a handfull of Violets, a handfull of Clove Gilly flowers: mince each of these by themselves, and beat them severally in a Morter: so add as much of the aforesaid stuff to each as will fill three several dishes, you may thin them as you please, by mixing more Cream to either of them, so bind them up as aforesaid, and when your pot boyles very fiercely, shake your dishes: that the matter may mingle together, and put them in: When they are boyled, uncover your Dishes, turn out your puddings into a large dish: Stick them as before: Else with any Rich Suckets: your Leare, is Butter, Vinegar, Rose water and good store of Sugar; scrape on Sugar, and send them up: they are an exceeding handsome, and Rich service, fitting for any feast: you may make but one or more of the above four sorts of puddings, as you please.
To make Marrow Puddings to boyl in Skins.
TAke a pottle of Cream, two rowls of French bread, sliced very thin, being cut over again the contrary way. you may put it over the fire a soaking with a little whole Cinamon, [Page 65] till it begins to boyl, then beat a dozen of eggs together: and when your Cream is almost cold, beat them in, put to them the Marrow of five Marrowbones minced, with some minced Orangado, and Cittern, beaten Cinamon, Ginger, Cloves and Mace, Rosewater and Sugar, with some salt: you may thin it with cream, if your Manchet swells too much: (for it must be but a little thicker then Pan-cake batter) then having your hoggs guts th [...] smallest of the great ones, being well scoured, and cleans [...]d, fill up your guts and tye them up like beads▪ being about the bigness and length of an egg (or something longer) you must give two Inches scope to every one of these in the tying, else they will break, not having room to rise: boyl them very softly in Kettle, for the space of above half an hour, then take them up and keep them for your use, and heat them for service for pleasure.
To make Black Puddings to be kept.
TAke a gallon of great Oatmeal, and put to it two gallons of very good strong broth, let it boyl softly over the fire about half an hour, keeping it continually stirred, then put it out into a great earthen pan; let it be cold, and put to it about a gallon of hogs blood strained; mix it together with the congealed Oatmeal; if it makes it not thin enough, add to it a quart of milk or more, let it steep together all night; then take a good handful of Wintersavory, as much Pennyroyal, a little Hysso [...], and Rosemary, half a handfull of Time, a handfull of Sives: if not, take Onions or Leeks, and a handfull of Sage, mince all these exceeding small, and put them into your puddings: season it with Pepper beaten small, Cloves, Mace Ginger, Cinamon, and Nutmegs, with a quantity of Salt; then having about two flecks of Lard cut with your knife, twice as big as a die, put all in together, with about sixteen Eggs, mingle it all well with your hands: if it be thick and not high-coloured with blood, add more to it, your small guts of a hogg being cleansed and watered for a day before; cut your gutts an ell and half long, and blow them up all, to see where they are sound, then fill a taste of these puddings, and observe what scope you give to your [Page 66] taste that you may know how they swell, as also to know what they want in their seasoning, softness or hardness; for they ought not to have so much blood in them to congeale them hard; and according to this Tryal, you may order the rest; so fill up your lengths, and tye them up in six links, or but four if you please; you must allow at least three inches scope in each link; let your water boyl very sober, and when they have boyled half an hour, take them forth, and put others in; then afterwards put them in for half an hour again: as you fill your Puddings, you must supply your Pan still with Hogs suet, and order your hand in the filling, that the ingredients may all carry a due proportion; these Puddings, with some white Puddings made with Beef suet, after the manner of the little ones, (but of a span length) will be a very good service for a common diet, especially at night; you may add to your white Puddings a pretty quantity of flower, with your grated bread, but then you must put in the fewer eggs, but the more Beef suet minced exceeding small.
To make Polony Sassages to keep all the year.
YOu may take a piece of a Gammon of red Bacon, and half boyl it, mince it very small: if your Gammon be not fat, take half as much bacon lard, mince it likewise: mingle them together, and beat them in a Morter: season them with Time and Sage minced very small, and good store of Pepper beaten to dust, with a little Cloves, Mace and Nutmeg, and a pretty quantity of Salt, for they ought so to be; add to them the yolks of two eggs, and so much Red wine as will bring them up into a stiff body; mingle them well with your hands, fill them into middle skins, as big as four of your ordinary Sassages, so hang them in your Chimney for a time, and when you will use them, they must be cut out very thin round wayes, and put them in your dish with Oyl and Vinegar, and serve them for a Sallet for the second course, or for a Collation before you drink.
Another way for Sassages.
TAke Pork, not as much fat as lean, mince it exceeding small together, then take part of the fleck of Pork in pieces about the bigness of the top of your finger, season each apart with minced Sage, good store of Pepper and Salt, some Cloves and Mace, mix in your seasoning into each of these; take your small sheeps guts and cleanse them, so fill them with your funnel, alwayes putting some of the pieces of fleck between the minced; you may sprinkle a little wine on the top of your Sassage meat, it will fill the better. I have made rich Sassages of Capons and Rabbits, and could shew a receipt for it; but none so savoury as those of Pork, by reason that Sage and Pepper is not so suitable to the nature of the other; so tye up your Sassages in links, and keep them for your use.
To make a Pudding of Hogs-Liver.
BOyl your Hogs-Liver and grate it; put to it more grated bread then Liver, with as much fine flower as of either; put twelve eggs to the value of a gallon of this mixture, with about two pound of Beef-suet minced small, with a pound and half of Currans, half a quarter of a pinte of Rose-water, a good quantity of Cloves and Mace, Nutmeg, Cinamon and Ginger, all beaten, and as much Salt as it requires, with some Winter-savoury, Penniroyal, Sweet Margerum and Time, all minced very small: mix all these with sweet Milk or Cream; let it be no thicker then Fritter Batter, so fill your Hogs gutts; you may make one for the Table in the maw, to be eaten hot: in your knitting up the guts, you must remember to give them three or four inches scope: in your putting them into your boyling water, you must handle them round, to bring the meat equal to all parts of the gutt: they will ask above an hours boyling: the boyling must be sober; if the wind rise in them, you must observe to prick them.
To make a baked Marrow Pudding.
SEt a quart of Cream a boyling, with Cinamon, and large Mace: take eight eggs, casting away the whites of four, beat them well together, with a little more Cream, or Milk: when your Cream boyls, take it off the fire, and stir in your eggs, let it not be too hot lest it curdle, season it with Rose-water, Sugar, and grated Nutmeg: your dish being ready, with a garnish of Paste about the brims, cover the bottom of your dish with thin sippets of light bread, lay raw Marrow thereon all over, also Dates and Raisons, with Orangado and other suckets: then put in a ladleful or two of your Cream boyled up, and lay on the top of that a laying of sippets, put also a laying of Marrow and suckets (as before) on the top of that; then pour in your Cream again; if your dish be deep enough, you may go three stories high; fill it not too full till it comes in the Oven, lest it spill over, it will not ask half an hours baking; you may garnish it if you please with Lozenges, or otherwise.
To make an Oatmeal Pudding.
TAke two handfuls of great Oatmeale, and beat it exceeding small in a Morter, set on three pintes of Milk in a skillet, put into it two or three sticks of Cinamon, and large Mace, stir in this Oatmeal into your Milk before it is hot, so much as will make it reasonable thick, fit to be eaten; boyl it for the space of half an hour, but keep it stirring; put therein a good handful of Beef suet shred small; then take it off the fire, and put it in an earthen Pan, and let it stand until it is almost cold; if it grows thick, thin it with a little more Milk; beat in four eggs, with almost a handful of Sugar, a grated Nurmeg, and some Rose-water; butter the bottom of your dish, and pour in your Pudding, for it ought to be as thin as batter; bake it softly; it will ask but half an hours time; so scrape on Sugar, and send it up.
To make a Pudding of Rice flower.
THicken three pintes of Milk, with about a handful of Rice flower beaten into a batter, put in Cinamon and large Mace in the boyling; keep it continually stirred till it be thick, put into it a piece of butter, let it boyl a quarter of an hour, then put it in an earthen Pan, and let it be cold; add to it two handfuls of Currans a little Sugar, beaten Cinamon, and a handful of Dates minced, beat half a dozen eggs, (casting forth three whites) beat them together, put butter in the bottom of your dish, and pour in your Pudding; you must add Salt, and all things else in this nature, according to your discretion; you ought to have a garnish of Paste on the brims of your dish; when it is baked, scrape on Sugar, and serve it up, adding a little Rose-water.
To make a hastie Pudding.
SEt on three pintes of Cream, two grated Manchets or French rolles sliced thin and minced, put to this a grated Nutmeg, a little Cloves, Mace, Cinamon and Ginger beaten; add thereto half a handful of flower, mingle it together, and stir it into your milk; when it boyls, throw in a piece of Butter; then having four or five eggs beaten, with the whites of half cast away, put them also into your Pudding, with a handful of Sugar, and a little Rose-water, stir them together again, till they begin to boyl and thicken, then put it out into your dish you serve it up in, set it on a heap of coals, put a fire-shovell to be red hot in the fire, then hold it close to your Pudding untill it is brown on the top, so scrape on Sugar and send it up.
To make Andolians.
TAke the great guts of a Hog, let them be clean scoured and shifted in several waters, for four and twenty hours together, then take a handful of very good sweet herbs and Parslee, with a piece of Beef-suet, mince it together very small, and put to it a good quantity of Cloves, Mace, Ginger, a little Pepper, Salt and beaten Nutmeg; add to it a handful of grated bread, mingle it altogether; then cleanse and stroke your gutts from the water and slime, through a cloth very clean, and season the fat side of them with your aforesaid ingredients; so pull one length over another, your least underneath, and your greatest on the outside; you may put five or six lengths over one another; but for the more sure way, for after-service, you ought to wash every length over with eggs, and then season it, before you pull over the other length; when you have done all, bind them up at both ends, and boyl them softly until they are enough, then sowce them: When you use them, you may cut them in slices, and fry them, so serve them up with Mustard; but if you think they will be better, you may dip them in the yolks of eggs, and so fry them.
BOOK IX.
Contains Hash, Stewed, Broyled and Carbonadoed meats.
To farce a Fillet of Beef.
CUT your Fillet of Beef into three great Collops, throughout from side to side, beat them very well with a Rouler, or back side of a Cleaver, so that you have made them flat and thin, then mince a great handful of Parslee, with Time and other sweet herbs; having your meat seasoned as it lyeth, with Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Mace, and Nutmeg, and being washed over with the yolks of eggs as you joyn them together again, throw on a handful of sweet herbs, and a handful or two of Beef suet purely minced; then joyn on the other Fillet with the washed side downward to the herbs; so do with the third, having the herbs and Beef-suet between; beat them close together with the flat side of the Cleaver, so put it into a great Pan, and put a pinte of Claret, and a pinte of strong Broth, with half a dozen of Onions and whole Pepper to it, but it is better to wrap it up in two Veal Caules, being washed over with the yolks of eggs, so cover it with a sheet of course Paste, and let it stew up in an hot Oven for about five hours; you must note, that this I call a Fillet, is but three great Collops of one side the Fillet, containing the bigness of a Fillet of Veal; when it is baked, you must dish it up on good store of sippets, and pour in the Broth it was baked with; then having a red Cabbage boyled, hacked and tost up in drawn Butter, garnish it upon, and the sides of the meat, in the inside the dish.
To stew a breast of Mutton.
TAke a breast of Mutton and joynt it well, and farce it with some sweet herbs, and minced Parslee; then put it in a deep Stewing-dish with the right side downwards; put to it so much White-wine and strong Broth as will stew it: set it on a great heap of coals, put in two or three Onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, and a little large Mace; when it is almost stewed, take a handful of Spinnage, Parslee and Endive, and put into it, at the last you may put some Goosberries or Grapes: in the Winter time you may stew it with Sampier and Capers: it will not be amiss to add these to them at any time: dish up your breast of Mutton, and put by that liquor you do not use, and thicken the other with yolks of eggs and drawn Butter, so pour on the Lear, and the herbs over the meat, and garnish the dish with Lemmon or Barberries.
To farce a Fillet of Veal.
CUT two Fillets out of a large leg, take a handful of sweet herbs and Parslee minced, with a handful of Beef suet minced, and some yolks of hard eggs: season this with two grated Nutmegs, and a little Salt, and so farce your Fillets of Veal: being well larded with Bacon, and drawn with Time, let them be roasted almost enough: then in the mean time take the rest of your farced meat, being about a handful, put half a handful of Currans to it, and a little strong Broth, Vinegar, and a little Claret, with some large Mace, and a little Sugar: your meat being almost roasted, draw it off, and let it stew in this: when it is enough, add a ladleful of drawn butter, so dish up your meat, and pour your sauce all over it.
To stew Venison.
THey which have much Venison, and make many cold baked meats, may stew a dish in haste after this manner; when it is sliced out of your Pie, Pot, or Pastie, put it in a stewing-dish, and set it on a heap of coals, with a little Claret-wine, a sprig or two of Rosemary, half a dozen Cloves, a little grated bread, Sugar and Vinegar; so let it stew together a while, then grate on a Nutmeg, and dish it up.
How to stew Calves feet.
YOur Calves-feet being boyled and blanched, split them in the middle, take from them the great bones, put them into a stewing-dish with a little strong Broth, two or three Onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, with a little large Mace and Salt; when they boyl, put to them a handful of Parslee, Spinnage and sweet herbs minced, with a handful of Currans; when they are enough, beat the yolks of two or three eggs, with four or five spoonfuls of Vinegar and a little Sugar; so thicken your Lear with that, and a little drawn butter; dish up your Calves feet on sippets, and pour on your Broth.
To hash a shoulder or leg of Mutton.
YOur shoulder or leg being almost roasted, you must hash them in as thin slices as you can, into a deep dish; put into it a ladleful of strong Broth, three or four whole Onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, a little large Mace and Salt, put in on a good heap of coals; when it is boyled up to an heighth, put into it two or three Anchovies, half a handful of Capers, a little Sampier minced, two yolks of eggs beaten with a little White-wine, toss it up together, so dish it up, and garnish it with Lemmon.
How to make a raw Hash of a more excellent way, new invented.
TAke a couple of legs of Lamb, or a leg of young Mutton; hash it exceeding thin with your knife; then having half a handful of sweet herbs minced, consisting most of time; put into your meat, with a little Cloves, Mace Nutmeg and Salt, with the yolks of five eggs; work up all these together between your hands; your Pan being on with a good quantity of Clarified butter, put it in all over the Pan, so keep it stirring and tossing, until it be almost eatable, then put out your butter out of your Pan you fryed it in; put in a ladleful of strong Broth, a little White-wine, four Anchovies, two or three whole Onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, so let them stew up altogether; put in towards the last a pinte of Oysters, then take the yolks of two or three eggs, and beat them in strong Broth, or White-wine, and throw them into your Pan, keeping it still tossing and stirring; you may add half a pinte of gravie if you have it, your dish being garnished with sippets, pour in your Hash, and put Sassages round about, so garnish it with Lemmon, and strow on the yolks of minced eggs; if it be well done, it will look white with a smeered froth on it.
To Hash a Calves head.
TAke your Calves head and cleave it in two, and wash it out in certain waters, that it may boyl white; then put it a boyling and scum it; when it is almost boyled, take it up, and let it cool; Hash it in slices as thin as you can, then put it into your Stew-pan, with a ladleful or two of strong Broth, and as much White wine, three or four Onions whole, and a little Time minced, with two or three Anchovies, a little Salt, with a little Oyster liquor, if you have it; put all these a stewing together, when they are enough, toss it up with the yolks of two eggs, and a little drawn butter; you may have a Pipkin with about half a pinte of Oysters stewed up in a little gravie, with as many Mushroms, being thickened with a little drawn Butter, and [Page 75] seasoned with Nutmeg; take off your Pipkins, lay the bones of your Calves head in the bottom of your dish with sippets, then pour out your Hash with your Lear into the dish, and spread it abroad, and put your Oysters and Mushroms, and that Lear all over your Calves head; then having your thin sliced Bacon, before boyled, and part thereof fryed in eggs, lay it round on the dishes side; the one fryed, and the other boyled; you may add Sassages also about it, so garnish it with Lemmon; only grate a Nutmeg, strow it on the top, and let it go up smoaking.
To Hash Hens or Pullets with eggs.
YOur Hens or Pullets being roasted before, cut them up, as you would carve them for the Table; then hash off all the meat very thin and clean from the bones, only leave some upon the thigh bones and pinions; put them into your stewing dish with strong Broth, with two or three Onions; so let them stew up, with a faggot of sweet herbs, and a grated Nutmeg; when they are almost enough, mince half a dozen hard eggs, and put to it; so being seasoned with Salt, add a little drawn Butter and Claret-wine to it, and toss it up together in your dish; let the Lear be thick; if not, add the yolk of a raw egg or two; take out all your bones, and place them on the side of your dish to the brim-wards, upon your sippets; then put your meat all over the dish, scruise a Lemmon with some drawn Butter, and pour on the top of it; strow on yolks of eggs minced, and garnish them with Lemmon:
To make a Hash of Capons.
HAsh your Capons in the same manner as your Hens before, put into them a little Claret-wine and strong Broth, two Onions, two Anchovies, a faggot of sweet herbs, let it boyl all together; put to it a little gravie, if you have it, and some Oyster liquor; toss it together with a little drawn butter, so dish it up, and strow over the meat a Lemmon cut in Dice, and send it up: you may stew up Sassages with them, and put them round your dish, if you please.
To Hash Partridges.
YOur Partridges being roasted, take all the flesh off the bones, and hash it very thin; only preserve the leggs and wings of two or three Partridges; then put a little Claret-wine into your Pan, with a little strong broth and gravie; put to it an Onion or two, a Nutmeg grated, with an Anchovie, and a few crums of bread; when this boyls in your Pan, put in your wings and leggs, with the bones of your Partridges, with all your Hash on the top of them: so cover your Stew-pan, and let it boyl up, and when it is enough, put in a ladleful of drawn butter, and toss it up together; dish up the bones in the bottom of your dish on sippets; lay your legs and wings round about, and your Hash on the bones in the middle, so pour on your Lear, with a little drawn butter, and garnish it with Lemmon.
To Hash Ducks, or other water-fowl.
HAsh your Ducks, as you have heard before in the Partridge; put strong Broth, with a little Vinegar, and set them on the coals in the stewing-dish; put to them four Onions minced exceeding small, a little small Pepper, let all this boyl up together with a little Salt; also put in a pound of Sassages into the boyling with your Hash-Ducks; when they are enough, toss them up thick with a little drawn butter; so dish them up to your best advantage.
To Hash a Rabbet.
YOu must take the flesh from the bones of your Rabbet, being before roasted, and mince it small with your mincing knife; so put to it a little strong Broth and Vinegar, an Onion or two, with a grated Nutmeg, and let it stew up together; then mince a handful of boyled Parslee green, with a Lemmon cut like Dice, and a few Barberries, put it into your Hash, and toss it all together, and when it is enough, put a ladleful of drawn Butter thereto, and dish it upon the bones; so garnish it with Lemmon.
For Carbonadoes and Broyled meats.
To Carbonado a Goose.
YOur Goose being roasted, and carved, scorch it with your knife long waies, and cross it over again; (so that it may be like Checquer work) both within and without, then wash it over with Butter, strow it with salt, put it into a dish, with the skinny side downwards, so set it before your fire, in your dripping Pan, that it may take a gentle heat; when it hath stood a while, turn the other side; then lay it on your Gridiron, and put it on a moderate fire of Charcoals; when it is done, take it off the fire, and bast the upper side with butter, and dreadge it over with flower and grated bread, then turn it and froth it on the fire, and dish it up in order; your sawce must be Butter, and Vinegar, Mustard, and Sugar, being mingled together: put it into your dish, so lay on a little drawn Butter, and garnish it with Lemmon: you may lay on Sassages round your dish if you please.
To Carbonado Turkies.
YOU must observe the same order as you did in the Goose, your sawce must be a little gravy and strong broth, boyled up with an Onion, and a little grated bread, with sliced Nutmegg, an Anchovie, and a ladle of drawn butter; add a little salt, dish up your Turky, and put your sawce all over it, strow it over with Barberries, and garnish it with Lemmon.
To Carbonado Henns.
LET your sawce be a little White wine and Gravy, half a dozen of the yolks of hard eggs minced, boyled up with an Onion, add to it a grated Nutmeg; thicken it up with the yolks of an egg or two, with a laddle of drawn butter; dish up your Henns, and pour over your sawce, [Page 78] strow on yolks of eggs minced, and garnish it with Lemmon.
To Carbonado Veal.
TAke a breast of Veal, lard it very thick with bacon, and when it is boyled, Carbonado it long, and cross-wayes; wash it over with a little butter, and the yolk of an egg, strow it over with salt; put it on your Gridiron with the right side downward, untill it be of a yellowish brown, dish it up, garnish it with a little fryed bacon; let your Leare be a little strong broth, boyled up with some minced Time, and some Nutmegg grated, a little Vinegar, and a ladle of drawn butter, pour it over your meat; so scruise in an Orange, or two, and garnish it with Oranges cut in quarters.
To Carbonado Mutton.
BOyl a shoulder or breast of Mutton, then scortch them over as aforesaid, and strow on minced Time, Salt, and a little Nutmeg; when they are broyled, dish them up; let your sawce be Claret wine boyled up, with two Onions a little Sampier and Capers minced, with drawn butter and gravy, pour this all over your meat, and garnish it with Lemmon.
A dish of Collops of Mutton, Broyld.
CUT off a piece of your legg of Mutton close to the bone, cut it into Collops very thin, back them as broad as you can, with the back of a great knife, and lay them in a broad dish, then having a little Time small minced, and a Nutmeg grated, mingled with a little salt, strow the one half on the upperside of your Collops, your Gridiron being clean rubbed, with the skin of Bacon, put on your Collops with the seasoned side downwards, then cast the rest of your seasoning on the other side, and let them broyle on a moderate fire; when the one side is enough, turn them, they must not be brown; so let your dish be on the coals with a little gravy, dish them up in a heap, pour on a little butter, and gravy hot, cover them with a [Page 79] dish, and send them hot to the table, being garnisht with sliced Lemmon.
Steakes of Pork Broyled.
TAke a Loyn of Pork, cut off the skin, and about an inch or more of the fat: (if the Loyn be so fat) then cut off your steakes with your Cleaver very thin, and beat them with the flat thereof as broad and as thin as you can; Lay them on a dish, strow them over with a little salt, and Sage minced very small; so lay them on your Gridiron, and season the other side; let your sawce be drawn Butter, Vinegar and Mustard with a little Sugar; when they are ready dish them up, and put the sawce to them.
To Carbonado a Calves head.
WHen it is boyled according to the usual manner, Carbonado it, and strow on salt; so wash it over with the yolk of an egg, and drawn butter, rub the bars of your Gridiron with the skin of fat Bacon, and ler it broyl gently, to a yellowish brown; dish it up with your tongue about it; your Leare may be a pint of Oysters stewed up in gravy and wine, with a ladle of drawn butter put to it: so pour it all over your Calves head, and put your sliced Bacon round about; Garnish it with Lemmon.
To Broyl a Chine of Pork.
WHen your Pork is boyled, wash it over with a little butter, and broyl it; then take your Raw Turnips cut to pieces in the length and bigness of your thumb, being boyled in a little strong broth and milk, tost up with some drawn butter and vinegar; your Pork being disht, pour this all over it; Garnish your dish with Barberries, strowing some over the meat and send it up.
There are many Gentry who delight in Carbonadoes, and broyled meats: for indeed it is a very good, savory, and wholesome meat; therefore I do acquaint the Student in Cookery, that he may make use of this way for any other meats or Joynts, which I have here omitted, provided [Page 80] the sawce be natural to the meat; Butter and Vinegar being the good old sawce for most broyled meats; As for Example.
Boyl a Brisket of Beef, take off the skin, and Carbonado it, then broyl it; dish it and serve it up, with Cabbadge or Turnips; your Leare is butter and Vinegar: In the same manner you may do the Goose or skin that you took off.
BOOK X.
Containing Frigasies and Frying.
How to fry all manner of Garnishing.
YOu must beat the yolks of eggs, put in the beating a little flower, and Sack, make them into a batter, add to the batter some grated Nutmeg; if you make much, you may put in four whites amongst eight eggs: let it be thick.
How to fry Oysters in Batter.
LET your Pan be hot with your Clarified Butter or tryed Suit, and your Oysters being set and dryed, dip your Oysters in the aforesaid Batter, and put them into your pan; do not over charge your pan; if you do, it will Rise up in a froth, and spoil that which you fry; hold your pan on a hot fire with your Oysters, and when they are come to a lovely brown, take them out with your cummer; thus you may fry sliced Lobsters, Pranes, or Periwinkles, the tayls of Crafish, to serve for the garnishing of your fish; you may fry Rosemary dipt slightly in Batter: your Pan must be very hot to fry Bay-leaves, Fennel, or Parslee; your scummer must alwayes be in your hand; for assoon as they become green and crisp, they will turn black if you take them not forth; these [Page 81] things you must not dip in batter: you may fry Skirrets, sliced Potatoes, and bacon in thin slices in the said batter; If you would fry green, then you must scald some Spinnage in boyling water, and mince it with your knife exceeding small; you may strain in a little of the juice of it, but then you must add more flower; beat this in with the yolks of eggs, and fry your green away (with your pan seasoned) as your other before; To know if your Pan be hot, if it leave [...]ishing, and begin to smoak, then it is hot: take it off, else it will burn and spoil all: If you would fry any other thing in batter: you must fry it after the manner afore prescribed: thus much for a garnish.
A Frigacy of a Henn or Capon.
THey being either roast or boyled before, almost enough, and carved up, the Pinnions being out off from the wings, and the brawn of the Capon cut off from the joynt, and being so ordered that it may lye handsome in the pan: put to them (as they are in the dish) the yolks of four eggs, with a little minced Time and sliced Nutmeg: then mingle them up together beeween your hands: your pan being on the fire, with clarified butter (or sweet suit) half hot, put them in, and let them fry untill they be yellowish, then turn them: so take a little White wine, and beat it with three or four yolks of eggs: add to it a little strong broth and gravy, an Onion or two cut in quarters, two Anchovies minced with a grated Nutmeg, then pour out all your stuff from your Capon or Henn, and put to it a ladleful of drawn butter: so put this Leare into your pan, and keep it continually shaking over a sober fire, untill it turns thick, or is ready to boyl, then dish up your Capon or Hen in order; if your Leare in your pan be too thick, you may thin it with Gravy, Wine, or strong broth: so pour over your Lear: strow it with the yolks of eggs minced, and garnish it with Lemmon.
To make a Frigacy of Chicken brown.
TAke about four Chickens, scald them, and cut them in quarters: beat them flat with your Cleaver, and break their bones, dry them with a cloth very well, and flower them all over the skinny sides; your pan being hot with clarified butter, put them in with the skinny side downwards, fry them brown, then turn them: let your Lear be a little Claretwine and gravy: then put your liquor out of your pan, and put in your leare, with pieces of sassages wrung off as long as your thumb, and a pint of Oysters, two or three onions, with a faggot of sweet herbs, a grated Nutmeg, and two or three Anchovies, let them boyle up in the pan; then beat the yolks of four eggs with a little strong broth, take the pan off the fire, and put them in: if it turns too thick, you may thin it with Wine, Gravy or strong broth: keep it shaking whilest its on the fire, then dish up your Chickens on Sippets, and pour on your Leare, and Oysters, with your pieces of Sassages by the sides of your dish, and garnish it with Lemmon.
Another way for Chickens or Rabbets.
TAke your Chickens or Rabbets, and let them be almost half boyled, cut them in halves or quarters: put them into your pan with a little fresh butter, (heat not your pan at all for them) then lay your pan on the fire, and let them fry soberly: Let your Leare be ready, the yolks of three or four eggs beaten, with about half a pint of Verjuice, a little White wine, and strong broth, a Nutmeg grated, and a handful of parslee, boyled up green and minced, with about a spoonful of Sugar, adding one handful of scalded Goosberries, Grapes, or sliced Artichoke bottoms; put all these in the pan to your Chickens, being kept shakeing over the fire, untill it be ready to boyl, then dish your Chickens, or Rabbets on Sippets, shake your Leare, and let it be as thick as drawn butter, so pour it all over your Chickens, strow on a Lemmon cut like dice, and garnish it with boyled parslee and Barberries.
To smear Collops of Veal.
TAke a piece of your Fillet of Veal, and cut it into thin Collops, and hack it with the back of your knife, and lard them with Bacon very thick, then put them into your pan, it being pretty hot, and fry them with clarified butter very brown on both sides▪ And let them be so hastily done, that they may not be fryed quite through; then having half a pint of Claret wine, and half a pint of Gravy, put it in your pan (with four Anchovies, three or four Onions, a little minced Time, and grated Nutmeg) amongst your burnt Butter; when it is boyled up, thicken it with the yolk of an egg▪ so dish up your Collops, and pour on your Leare on the top: if your Pan be little, you may fry them at twice, and let them boyl up after the same manner, in your stewing dish, Garnish them with Lemmon.
To fry a dish of Lamb stones and sweet breads.
Blanch your Lamb stones, taking off the outward skin, and split them through, also slice your Veal sweet breads, let your Lambs be whole, so let your pan be very hot, and your Lamb stones and Sweet breads flowred exceeding well; you may fry them up into a pure brown, if you do not overcharge your pan; let your sawce be gravy, butter and vinegar, dish them up, and strow over them parslee fryed crisp.
How to make a Frigacy of Lamb.
TAke a legg of Lamb, and cut it into Collops, and beat it with the back of the knife; put it into a dish with the yolk of four eggs, a handfull of Parslee, Time, Sweet Margerum and Spinnage minced very small, put to it a little beaten Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, and a little Salt, mixt them all together, your Frying pan being over the Fire with clarified Butter almost hot; put them in, and fry them softly, let them not be brown, but rather green; when they are almost fried, put to them a little White wine [Page 84] and strong broth, three Onions in halves, and a laddle of drawn Butter: let it boyl up in the pan, then beat the yolks of two eggs, with a little Vinegar, a little Nutmeg, and a little gravy; dish up your Lamb on Sippets, and pour on the Lear, and garnish it with Lemmon sliced.
A Frigacy of Veal.
YOur Veal being cut from the fillet, very thin, but not very large, do by it as before, by your Lamb, add yolks of eggs, and green minced herbs, until your Veal looks green; fry it up as before, and put it into a stewing dish, wish a little White wine, and strong broth; then cut some thin slices of Bacon, and throw into the dish amongst the sweet herbs, where the Veal was before; season it with a little Pepper, and minced sage, throw in the yolk or two of an egg: your pan being hot, fry it a little on both sides, so put it into the Leare with the Veal, and also that in the pan, it was fried withall, so let it boyl up together, and beat the yolks of two eggs, with a little Vinegar; put it into your meat, and toss it up together, with a ladle of drawn butter, and two Nutmegs grated; dish up your Veal with your Bacon about it, and pour over your Lear.
A dish of Collops of Mutton with a savoury hogo.
CUt your Collops of your Mutton through your Loyn, and beat them with the flat of your Cleaver; sprinkle them with Salt, and put them in your Pan, with some butter to them, fry them pretty brown on each side, then put them out into your stewing dish, with some Claret wine and strong broth; set them on the coals to boyl, then [...]ince two or three Onions; (as many as your hand will [...]tain when they are minced,) put your pan on the fire [...] a piece of sweet butter, let it continue until it burn, [...] throw in your Onions, when they are crisp, put them [...] steaks with the burnt butter, with two or three An [...] minced, a handful of Capers, and Sampier minced, with a couple of sliced Nutmegs; let it all boyl up together, [Page 85] take the yolks of one or two eggs beaten in, when they are enough; if you have gravie, make use of it also, dish up your steaks, and pour on your Leare.
To fry Collerd Pork.
YOu may see how to Coller it, as before; all that you have to do, is to slice the Coller, and your Pan being very hot, fry it with clarified stuff: you may eat it with Mustard as you do Sowse; this may serve when you have occasion to add a dish to your common diet.
Another way.
BReak the yolks of eggs, and beat them with a little Nutmeg; then dip in your Collers, and your Pan being hot as for eggs, put them in, and fry them away; you may dish them about a forced legg of Lamb, or fillet of Veal, or any other dish of that nature; you may also fry your Collerd Veal up with eggs, as you did your Pork, so dish it up, with a slice of one, and a slice of the other, and put to it a little Gravie, Butter and Vinegar boyled up to a heighth, and garnish it with Lemmon.
A Frigacy of Partridge or Woodcocks.
THey must be first almost roast, and then carved as at the Table, and fryed with sweet Butter, and an O [...] on minced exceeding small, put to them half [...] Gravie, and two or three Anchovies, half a [...] grated bread, a grated Nutmeg, a little dra== [...] [...] and the yolk of one egg, beaten with a [...] wine; so toss them all together, when they [...] come to a thickness, so dish them up, and [...] with Lemmon.
A Frigacy of Ducks or Widgeons.
YOu must cut them out raw in quarters, and beat them with the flat of your Cleaver; then dry them well, and put them into your pan with some Butter, and fry them well; when they are pretty well fryed, put into them one handful of minced Onions, and a little while after, put in some Claret-wine and eight slices of Bacon, having been boyled before, you may add a handful of Spinnage and Parslee boyled up green, and minced small; when it is stewed up in your Frying-pan, beat in a couple of yolks of eggs, with a grated Nutmeg, and a little Pepper; so toss it up with a ladleful of drawn Butter, and dish it up; pour on your Lear over it, and your Bacon on the top of your Ducks.
A Fryed meat of Bacon.
FIll your pan very full of slices of Bacon very thin, then take of Time, Winter savoury, sweet Margerum, and Pennyroyal, all minced; strow a little of this over all your Bacon in the pan, with a grated Nutmeg; then beat fourteen eggs together, and when your pan is hot with your Bacon in it, and begins to fry, take a ladleful of eggs, and pour it round by the Bacon, all along by the pans side; then pour it cross wayes from side to side, both wayes, then fill up all the vacant places, so that you hide all the Bacon; let it fry very soberly, then butter a plate, and put it into your pan, so turn it thereon; put more butter in your pan, and shift it into the pan, off your plate, so pour on some eggs on that side of the Bacon, but do it very lightly; and when the underside is fryed, you may turn it on your plate again, and fry the upper side; then take it up, and dish it on a dishing-plate, and scruise on Lemmons; garnish it with quartered Lemmons.
To make a fryed meat, called an Amlett.
BEat in according to your pan, sixteen eggs, (more or less) with a grated Nutmeg, and a Lemmon cut in the likeness and quantity of Dice, beat them together well, put butter in your pan, set it over the fire, let it be indifferent hot (but not to burn) then put in your eggs, keep them stirring that they grow not to the pan, put in butter by the sides, to make them shift up and down, and when they begin to harden and congeal, shake them round; by constant putting in of butter, they will move round, then turn them on your plate, put butter into your pan, and turn the other side downward; fry it of a pure yellow brown, so take it out of the pan on your plate, and dish it up, scruise on a Lemmon or two, garnish it about with Oranges, and scrape on Sugar.
Another way.
TAke twelve eggs, whites and yolks, and about a pinte of Cream, with two handfuls of grated Manchet, beat these together, with a little Rose-water and Sugar, grated Nutmeg, and some Cinamon, put a little melted butter into a skillet, set it on the fire, and pour your eggs and cream into it; keep it stirring until it grows thick into a body, and clears it self from the bottom of the skillet; your pan being hot with butter in it, put it out of the skillet into your pan, and flat it with your slice about your pan, fry it brown, and turn it with a plate, put more butter in your pan, and shift in the other side; when it is enough, take it out upon your plate, and dish it up; scruised on it a Lemmon or two, and garnish it with Oranges.
To fry Primose-leaves in March with eggs.
TAke a handful or two of Primrose leaves, mince them very small, beat them into a dozen eggs; your pan being very hot, cool it a little, and put in a piece of butter, so put in your eggs, fry them very soberly; when it is enough on that side, turn it, and lay it in again on the other side; [Page 88] when it is enough, scrape on Sugar, scruise on the juice of a Lemmon or two.
To fry Clary.
GAther the youngest Clary and string it, then beat some yolks of eggs, a grated Nutmeg or two; (in the number of eight eggs, you may put in two whites) put on your pan with some butter on the fire, that it may be hot enough for eggs, then dip your Clary into your yolks of eggs, and put it into your pan; fry it of a lovely brown on both sides; dish it up, and strow on Sugar, adding a little Butter, Vinegar and Sugar to it; it is good for break-fast, or second course dish.
To fry Apples.
YOu must first half coddle your Apples, then cut them in slices, and having a dozen eggs beaten together, and your pan hot with sweet butter, put so many eggs in as will run round your pan, and will make it no thicker then a Pancake; when it begins to harden and turn round, cover it all over with the slices of your Apples, and sprinkle over them good store of Cinamon, Ginger and Sugar; then pour on eggs all over your Apples, (as much as you put under them before) take them off the fire, and with a red hot fire-shovell harden them on the top; butter your plate and turn them, so fry them on the other side; then dish them up, and scrape on Sugar.
How to make an Orangado Phraise.
MInce your Orangado very small, with some Cittern amongst it, then beat them in a Morter to mash, put to them twelve eggs, casting away the whites of four, add to that a little Rose-water, with two Naple Biskets grated, let your pan be hot with a little sweet butter, this being mixed together, put it into your pan; when it is fryed, so that it turns round, take a red hot fire-shovell, and congeale it on the top, then turn it on a plate, and put it into your pan again with some butter, and when it is fryed tenderly, [Page 89] dish it up; scrape on Sugar, and garnish it with Orangado and Cittern.
A Tanzie of Cowslips or Violets.
BEat your Cowslips or Violets in a Morter, put into them a pinte of Cream, a handful of grated bread, a dozen of eggs, casting away four whites, some beaten Cinamon and Nutmeg, half a handful of Sugar, with a little Rose-water, put a piece of Butter into a skillet over a fire, and stir them until they come into a body; then put a little butter into your pan, being hot, and proportion it in your pan, and fry it; when it is fryed on that side, turn it on your plate, being washed with butter, so turn the other side into your pan, and when it is fryed, dish it up, scruise on the juice of Lemmon, and garnish is with quartered Oranges, and scrape on Sugar.
A Tanzie of Spinnage.
TAke a pinte of Cream, a handful of grated bread, fourteen eggs, cast away the whites of six, season it with a grated Nutmeg, and Sugar, and green it with the juice of Spinnage; so bring it into a body, in a skillet, and fry it, as before you did the other; this will be a very tender Tanzie; but if you intend to cut it according to the vulgar way, you must add the other whites of eggs, else deminish in your Cream; dish it up, scruise on the juice of a Lemmon, and garnish it with quartered Oranges, then scrape on Sugar. After this way and manner aforesaid, have I made Tanzies of Wallnut-tree buds in Lent, and of Pine-apples and Pistaches, at other seasons.
To fry Artichokes, or Spanish Potatoes.
WHen they are boyled and sliced, fitting for that purpose, you must have your yolks of eggs beaten with a grated Nutmeg or two; when your pan is hot, you must dip them into the yolks of eggs, and charge your pan; when they are fryed on both sides, your Lear to your Artichokes is drawn Butter, and to your Potatoes, Butter, Vinegar, [Page 90] Sugar and Rose-water; these for a need may serve for second course dishes.
To make Fritters.
TAke a pottle of flower that hath been dryed in an Oven, put to it six eggs, and the curd of a pottle of Milk, made with Sack and Ale, scruise all the Whey out of it, season it with Cinamon, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, and Ginger beaten, with a little Salt; then make it into a batter with milk, and put therein a dozen of Pippins sliced thin, beat it all well together, let it be so thick with the Apples and the Batter, that it may not run apart if it be put upon a pie-plate; then let your tryed lard be hot in the pan, continuing over the fire; put a ladleful of batter upon a pie-plate, and put it off into your boyling lard upon the point of a knife, to the value of a small Wallnut at a time; you must be very quick to scrape it from your plate into your pan, till it is fully charged; keep them stirring about until they are brown and crisp, then take them forth, and dish them up into a hot dish, and strow them with Cinamon and Sugar; you may also slice the Pippin through the Apple, to the tail-ward, being cored, and dip them into a thick batter, and so put them into your liquor as before.
To make Pancakes.
PUt to a pottle of flower eight eggs, casting by four whites, season it with Cinamon, Nutmeg, Ginger, Cloves, Mace, and Salt, then make it up into a strong Batter with Milk; beat it well together, and put in half a pinte of Sack, make it so thin, that it may run in your pan as you please; put your pan on the fire, with a little butter or suet; when it is very hot, take a cloth and wipe it out, so make your pan very clean, then put in more butter, and hold on your pan till it is melted, put in your batter, and run it very thin, supply it with little bits [...]f butter, so toss it often, and bake it crisp and brown.
Another way to dress a dish of Collops of Veal.
CUt a piece of a leg of Veal into thin Collops, with part of the dugg, beat it thin with the back of a knife, and lard it very well, then mince very small a good handful of Spinnage, a handful of Parslee, a little Time, sweet Margerum, and Wintersavoury, season them wirh a little Pepper, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg and Salt, then beat about eight yolks of eggs, and dip your Collops therein, so roul them in your green herbs, that they may stick to them, and put them into your pan with clarified Butter (being hot, as for eggs) when they are fryed on both sides with a fine green colour, put to them some strong Broth, a little white-wine, two or three spoonfuls of Vinegar, two or three Onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, with a grated Nutmeg, and let it stew altogether, then add the yolks of two eggs beaten with some of their own liquor, and a ladleful of drawn Butter, so shake it altogether, dish up your Collops, and pour on your lear; garnish it over with Bacon fryed in the yolks of eggs.
To fry Calves Feet, or Sheeps Trotters.
WHen they are boyled very tender, and split in the middle, cutting away the bunchy hair between the toes of your Trotters, season them with a little small Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg beaten; then take about the yolks of ten eggs, with the whites of three or four put to them, a handful of Parslee, Spinnage, Time, sweet Margerum, and Wintersavoury, minced exceeding small, beat them together in batter; your pan being hot with clarified butter, dip your feet into this batter, and put them in, fry them soberly on both sides, then put to them a little strong Broth, Vinegar and Sugar, so let them stew together, beating them up thick with the yolk of an egg and drawn Butter, dish them on sippets, and scruise a Lemmon over them.
How to Frigacy Neats Tongues and udders.
WHen they are boyled enough, take your Tongue and Udder, and cut them in slices or Collops, beginning at the butt end, until you come within five inches of the tip, and cut that in sippets length wayes, both of your Udder and Tongue, then take a handful of Spinnage, Parslee, Time, sweet Margerum and Wintersavoury minced exceeding small, and put it into your dish with the Udder and Tongue; put to it Cloves, Mace and Cinamon beaten, with a little Salt, the yolks of six or seven eggs, and mingle it all together very well with your hands, then fry it in clarified butter, put it forth into a great stewing-dish on a heap of coals, with Clares-wine, beaten Cinamon and Ginger, Sugar, a little Vinegar, a branch or two of Rosemary, and a handful of grated bread; when it boyls up together, add a ladleful of drawn butter, so dish it up with the slices of your tops of Tongues, &c. round about like sippets, and pour on your Lear.
To potch a dish of Eggs for a weak stomach.
TAke a handful of very good Sorrel beaten in a Morter, strain it forth with the juice of Lemmon, and a little Vinegar: put to it a little Sugar and grated Nutmeg, then take some sippets hardened upon a Gridiron, and lay them on the bottom of your dish; put on them a little strong Broth, and a spoonful of drawn butter, then pour in your Sorrell, and set it on a great heap of coals; your eggs being potched in a little water and salt either in a clean frying pan, or a broad bottomed skillet, with a little more water then will cover them; then take them up, drain them from the water, and lay them on your sippets, so cover them and send them suddenly away; you must observe that your sauce must never be no hotter on the fire, then that you may eat it without cooling it again; for if you do, it will change the colour of your Sorrell, and give your Lemmon and it a bad taste.
Another way rich and strengthening.
PUt sippets in your dish, as aforesaid, then beat half a handful of Pistaches, and put them into half a pinte of very good Mutton gravie, distill them over the fire, adding a grated Nutmeg, and the juice of a Lemmon, with two or three Anchovies dissolved in some of the gravie; then put it to or on your sippets, being on a great fire, then dish up your potched eggs (drained clean from the water) on your sippets, put all your Pistaches over your eggs, with a little drawn Butter, to make them look handsom.
Another way.
FIll your dish with toasted sippets, as aforesaid, put to them a pinte or half a pinte of Tent, or Muscadine, grate a Nutmeg on them; your eggs being very rarely done, and drained clean from the water by a little false bottom, or spoon made for that purpose; lay them on your sippets and wine, being moderately warm, send them up.
How to Butter Eggs.
BReak about sixteen eggs, or what you please; beat them and put them into a deep dish, with about half a pound of Butter or more in pieces, and almost melted; set them upon a great heap of coals until they begin to come together in the bottom; then have about a dozen toasts ready (through the roul) put them all over the bottom of your dish, and with a great spoon rake them round from one side to the other, and lay the fleaks as they rise, upon your toasts in the dish; this must be done with much quickness and diligence, lest it burn to the bottom; when all is laid on the toasts, pour over every one of them drawn Butter, stick them with small toasts, and send them up.
Another way.
BReak them on Butter, as aforesaid, then bring them up into a tender body with your spoon; dish them into a dish with toasts round about; this is your common way.
To fry Collops and Eggs.
CUt your Collops out of middling Bacon, exceeding thin, and about four inches long, so cutting of it off the rine at once, part it into a dish of fair water, and let them lye an hour or two to take away the Salt; then take them forth and dry them from the water, and fry them in a pan with Butter or tryed stuff, keep them tossed while they are a frying, put them in a dish before they are through crisp, and set them before the fire, then pour the liquor out of your pan, and make it exceeding clean, by scouring of it with the shells of eggs, then almost fill your pan with pure clarified dripping or butter; when it is hot, but not to blister your white much, break in your eggs one by one, then put them on your Trivett on Charcoals, and part them asunder with your knife, and shake your liquor all over them, so will they fry on the top, your need not turn them; in case your pan be not full enough, you may just turn them, and dish them upon your Bacon, and part of the Bacon on the top of them; this way they will be as white or whiter then potched.
Many more things of this nature, is or may be used in Frigasying or Frying; but by the knowledge of these, all other things according to their nature, may be performed by an ingenious Practitioner.
BOOK XI.
Containing all manner of Sallets and Roast-meats, with their several sauces.
To make Sallets.
To make a Grand Sallet for the Spring.
YOur Gardiner, or those that serve you with herbs, must supply you with all manner of Spring-Sallets, as buds of Cowslips, Violets, Strawberries, Primrose, Brooklime, Watercresses, young Lettice, Spinnage, Alexander-buds, or what other things may be got, either backward or forward in the Spring; having all these things severally and apart, then take by themselves Sampier, Olives, Capers, Broom-buds, Cowcumbers, Raisons and Currans parboyled, blanched Almonds, Barberries, or what other pickles you can obtain; then prepare your standard for the middle of your dish; it may be a wax tree, or a standard of Paste (like a Castle) being washed in the yolks of eggs, and all made green with herbs; as also, a tree within that, in the like manner may be made, with Paste made green, and stuck with flowers, so that you may not perceive it but to be a tree, with about twelve supporters round, stooping to, and fastened in holes in your Castle, and the other end bending out to the middle of your dish; they may be formed with Paste; then having four rings of Paste, the one bigger then another (like unto hoops) your biggest must come over your Castle, and reach within three inches of the foot of your supporter, the second to be within two inches of that, and so place as many as you please gradually, that they may be like as many steps going up to a Cross; you may have likewise four Belconies in your Castle, with four Statues of the four seasons; this done, place your Sallet, a round of one sort on the uppermost ring, [Page 96] or step, so round all the other, till you come to the dish, with every one a several sort; then place all your pickles from that to the brims of your dish severally, one answering another: As for example, if you have two of white, and two of green, let them be opposite, the white against the white, and the green against the green, and so all the other; so your dishes bottom being wholly covered below your Mount, garnish your dish with all kinde of things sutable, or afforded by the Spring; your Statues ought to have every one a Cruitt placed in their hands, two with Vinegar, and two with Oyl; when this Sallet is made, let it be carried to the Table, and set in its place; and when the guests are all placed, unstop the Cruitts, that the Oyl and Vinegar may run on the Sallet; these Cruitts must be glasses not a quarter of a pinte apiece, sized over on the outside, and strowed with flowers: After the same manner may you make your Sallet in Summer, Autumn, or Winter; only take those Sallets that are then in season, and changing of your standard; for in the Summer, you ought to resemble a green tree; and in the Autumn, a Castle carved out of Carrets and Turnips; in the Winter, a tree hanged with Snow: This only is for great Feasts, and may inform the Practitioner in such Feasts, for the honour of his Master, and benefit of himself: the Paste that you make your Castle or Standard with, must be made of Rye.
The Flesh Sallet of a Capon or Turkey.
TAke of either, slice it very thin, as for a Hash, put that which is white of the breast and wings by its self, and that which is black of the legs, or other part of the Fowl, by its self; put the rump and sides of the rump in the dish, and the other bones of the legs and wings about the sides of the dish like sippets; then season your meat with a few Sives, a little Tarragon, Speeremint and Parslee, with the Cabbage o [...] two of Lettice; mince these exceeding small, add a little small Pepper, Salt, and sliced Nutmeg, with a little Horse Raddish, scraped and minced, mingle your seasoning together, and strow it on your Sallet, pour on Oyl and Vinegar, so toss it up together; let your blackest [Page 97] flesh be laid all over the bottom of your dish and bones, and your whitest on the top of all; strow on a Lemmon Cut in Dice, and garnish it at your pleasure.
A made dish of Parmyzant.
TAke a Grater, and grate half a pound of Parmyzant, then grate as much Manchet, and mince some Tarragon together with Horse Raddish; season this with almost a handful of Carraway Comfits; put to it a little brisk Claret-wine to moisten it over, then dish it in a small dish, from the middle to the brim, in parcells as broad as your knife; garnish it with Carraway Comfits, Horse-Raddish and Tarragon; send it up the last dish of your mess or messes, with Mustard and Sugar; because at a Feast it is not common to send up a whole Cheese.
A Sallet of a dryed Neats-Tongue.
LEt your tongue be exceeding red, sliced as thin as a groat, and about the same bigness, put to it a little Tarragon minced small; toss it with Oyl and Vinegar, and dish it; put Bay-leaves round your meat, and strow on West-phalie Bacon on the brims of your dish.
A Sallet of Fennell.
TAke young Fennell, about a span long, in the Spring, tye it up in bunches as you do Sparragrass; when your skillet boyls, put in enough to make a dish; when it is boyled and drained, dish it up as you do Sparragrass, pour on Butter and Vinegar, and send it up.
A Sallet of green Pease.
WHen your green Pease appear, about a handful and half from the ground, cut off enough to boyl for your Sallet, let your liquor boyl before you put it [...]; when it is tender, pour it forth into your Cullender; let all the water be drained clean out of it into a dish, with [Page 98] some drawn Butter; season it with Salt, and hack it with your knife, and toss it together in the Butter, so dish it up. Thus may you do with Turnip or Raddish-tops, that are young.
A Sallet of boyled Spinnage.
BOyl your Spinnage, as before you did your Pease, but in Broth if you have it; you must boyl it exceeding quick, else it will change colour; put it out into your Cullender, and drain it from the water; hack it with a knife, and put it in a stewing-dish, with a handful or two of parboyled Currans, a little Vinegar, drawn Butter, Sugar, a grated Nutmeg and Salt, mingle it altogether, and let it stand on a heap of coals, until it begins to boyl up; have ready a matter of a dozen toasts, cut thin through the penny Manchet, put them into the bottom of your dish, and put your Sallet on them with a spoon in heaps, so scrape on Sugar.
I having before hinted of several Sallets in the Spring season, need not speak to you of the Summer, because there is none almost, but knows so many varieties of that season, and so much made use of by the vulgar, that it would take up not only a great deal of my time (which may be better spent) to recite them, but fill my volume, which I have intended for a better use: As for part of the Autumn and Winter, I have before prescribed you Rules to pickle, I shall leave you to that, and so proceed to what is behind.
Rules how to Roast meats, with their several Sauces.
To roast a Hanch of Venison.
IF your Venison hath been seasoned, you must water it, and stick it with short sprigs of Rosemary; let your sauce be Claret-wine, a handful of grated bread, Cinamon, Ginger, Sugar, a little Vinegar, boyl these up so thick as it may only run like batter, it ought to be sharp and sweet, dish up your meat on your sauce.
To roast a Jegget of Mutton.
YOur Jegget of Mut [...]on is the leg and half the loyn cut to it, draw it with Lemmon-pill and Time, roast it soberly, save the gravie in a dish under it, put therein Claret-wine, two or three Onions cut in halves, two Anchovies, a spoonful or two of Elder-Vinegar, let this boyl up together; then put in a few minced Capers and Sampier, with a Nutmeg sliced; this is sauce for your Jigget of Mutton, or for any other roast Mutton; you may add what gravie you have to it, and Oyster-liquor.
To roast a shoulder of Mutton with Oysters.
Your Oysters being parboyled, put to them some Parslee, Time and Wintersavoury minced small, with the yolks of six hard eggs minced, a handful of grated bread, three or four yolks of eggs, so mingle all together with your hands; your shoulder, or other joynt of Mutton being spitted, lay it upon the dresser, make holes with your knife, and put in your Oysters, with the herbs and ingredients after them; about twenty Oysters will be enough; take [...]he rest of your quart, or as many as you have, put them into a deep dish, with some Claret-wine, two or three Onions in halves, a couple of minced Anchovies; put all this [...]nder your Mutton in the pan, to save your gravie, and [Page 100] when your meat is ready, put your sauce upon a heap of coals; put to it the yolk of an egg beaten, a grated Nutmeg, and drawn Butter; dish up your shoulder of Mutton, and pour this thick Lear of Oysters all over it; strow on the yolks of hard eggs minced, and garnish it with Lemmon.
To roast a Chine or Neck of Veal.
DRaw them with Time, and put them a roasting; then take some great Oysters, seasoned as afore in the shoulder, having some slices of Bacon cut four square, a little larger then the Oyster: then having two or three square rods, as big as your little finger, put thereon a piece of Bacon, and then an Oyster, so long, until you have spitted all your great Oysters: tye these rods on your Veal; when it is more then half roasted, then put under it a dish with a little Claret-wine, minced Time, and a grated Nutmeg: when your Oysters and Veal is ready, cut off your rods, and slip the Oysters and Bacon into the Wine, let them boyl up thick, adding the yolk of an egg, with a little drawn Butter, put it all over your Veal, whether Chine, Neck, Fillet or Leg.
To roast a breast of Veal.
RAise up the skin of pour breast of Veal, almost to the end of it, towards the belly, and likewise almost to the place the shoulder was cut off; force it with a Sassage force-meat, good store of Lard in it: but season it with Time, Wintersavoury and Parslee minced, as also with Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, salt and small Pepper: let it not be so hot in your mouth as your Sassage-meat: mingle this in two eggs, and farce it between the skin and Veal: and draw your breast all over with Time, and let your sauce be Butter, Vinegar, a little minced Time, and Nutmeg grated: garnish it with Lemmon, and send it up.
A Fillet or Leg of Veal Farced.
TAke a good quantity of Time and sweet herbs, and make farcing, as is before shewn, and farce your Leg of Veal, and serve it up in farcing sauce.
To roast Olives of Veal.
CUt out of a Fillet of Veal large Collops, hack them thin with the back of your Chopping-knife, then having minced your farcing herbs with Beef-suet, and seasoned, then season your Collops with a little Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg and Salt: mix them with the yolks of four or five eggs, and spread them abroad; strew on your farceing, and roul them up close, so put them on a spit, and roast them; boyl up the rest of your farcing in a little White-wine and strong Broth, with a little Sugar, then draw your Olives, pour on your sauce, and garnish it with Lemmons.
To roast a whole Lamb or Kid.
TRuss your Lamb (or Kid) pricking the head backwards over the shoulder, tying it down; set it, and lard it with Bacon, and draw it with Time, and a little Lemmon-pill; then make a Pudding with a little grated bread, a handful of sweet herbs, a handful of Beef-suet; put in about a handful of flower, and a little Sassage or forced meat minced; season it with Cloves, Mace, Cinamon, Ginger, Nutmeg and Salt; make it up into a tender body, with two or three eggs and a little Cream; stuff it into the belly of your Lamb, or Kid; put some Caul of Veal or Lamb over it, so prick up the belly: Roast your Lamb or Kid, and when it is enough, serve it up with Venison sauce.
To make a Kid of a Pig, and a Pig to be roasted.
TAke a large Pig and flea him as carefully as you can, so that you make no holes in his skin; cut off the ears and nose to the skin, then truss up your Pig like a Kid, with the head over the shoulders, lard it over with Bacon (being set) and draw it with Time, so put it on your spit to roast; then take a piece of parboyled Veal, and as much Beef-suet, with a good handful of Spinnage, an handful of sweet herbs and Parslee, mince these together exceeding small, season it with beaten Pepper, Cloves, Mace, Cinamon, Ginger, Nutmeg, Sugar and Salt; then put to it two or three handfuls of Currans, and as much grated bread; mingle it with a little Cream, and about four eggs, so that it may be as stiff as forced-meat; then wash over your Pig on the inside with the yolks of eggs, and sow up the holes in the skin; so force your Pig with this, and let him be in the same form as he was before he was fleaed; sow up his belly, and put him in a Tinn dish, with a ball of forced meat in his mouth, and a little butter in the bottom of the dish, so put him into the Oven, and bake him up crisp; and roast the other for a Kid; dish them up when they are ready, with a pretty sharp farcing sauce under them, and strow them over with the yolks of eggs minced.
To roast a Calves-head.
TAke a handsom white Calves-head, cut a little hole in it, and take out his brains (after he is parboyled) then lard it with Bacon, and draw it with Lemmon and Time on both sides, and put in savoury forced-meat instead of the brains, being stopt in with a leafe of Bacon lard; put it upon your spit and roast it; otherwise, for more safeness, you may bake it (in a dish) in the Oven; so may you well take it out when it is half baked, and prick on Artificiall ears, being made with Bacon, washed over with the yolks of eggs, and the whole head likewise; put it into the Oven again, and when it is enough, dish it up, your Lear and ingredients being ready; which is Claret-wine, gravie, a pinte, or more, of Oysters, a couple of Anchovies, boyled [Page 103] up with two Onions, and a faggot of sweet herbs, with a grated Nutmeg, some slices of Bacon, and Sassages; so thicken it up with the yolk or two of an egg, and a ladleful of drawn Butter; put your Oysters over your Calves-head, and your Bacon and Sassages round about your meat, so garnish it with Lemmon; you must take notice that the tongue must be taken out before the head is parboyled; and when it is boyled, to be used in the Lear.
To roast Leverets, and Rabbets.
CAse your Leverets, but cut not off their hinder legs, nor their ears, but harl one leg through another, so likewise cut a hole through one ear, and put it through the other, so roast your Leveret; in the mean time, make your sauce with a little Parslee, Time, sweet Margerum and Wintersavoury minced very small, with the liver of the Hare parboyled, and the yolks of three or four hard eggs, with a little Bacon and Beef suet; boyl this up well with strong Broth and Vinegar; when it is boyled, add a grated Nutmeg, drawn Butter, and a little Sugar; put it into your dish with your Leverets: The same way may you make your counterseit Leverets of Rabbets; but you must remember to lard them when they are parboyled, if desired.
To roast a Lambs head.
TAke four or five white Lambs heads washed well, set and soak them in many waters; if you please, you may take out the brains, and force them with a savoury forced meat, being drawn with Time and Lemmon-pill; then spit your Lambs-heads and roast them; when they are half roasted, put on your spit as many Lambs-tongues larded on both sides, and let them roast with three sticks of Oysters, and sweet-breads amongst them; then having some gravie drawn with Claret-wine, put to it three Onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, three Anchovies, and a grated Nutmeg; when your Lambs-tongues are roasted, cut them in the middle, and put them into your wine and gravie; then draw your Oysters and sweet-breads off your broaches, [Page 104] with your tongues; then dish up your Lambs-heads upon sippets, well soaked in strong Broth; lay the sides of your tongues round your dish by the heads, and put all over them your Oysters and sweet breads, so pour on your Lear, with a ladleful of drawn Butter; you may boyl these, and add forced meat balls, and Bacon fryed yellow and green; they will either wayes serve forgood handsom boyled meats, pallatable.
To roast Venison.
TAke the leg part of your Hanch of Venison, and cut it in thin Collops, hack it with your knife, as you do the like of Veal; then lard it very thick, with a small larding pin; then take a handful of Parslee and Spinnage, good store of Time, a little Rosemary, Wintersavoury, and sweet Margerum, mince it exceeding small, with a little Beef-suet, so put it in the dish with your Venison; put to it some beaten Cloves, Cinamon, Nutmeg, with a pretty quantity of Salt, the yolks of half a dozen eggs, or more, mingle it up all together with your hands, then spit your Collops on a small spit, or long Broaches made with sticks; you must spit them so by doubling of them, or bringing in the ends, that they may not hang too long, but equal; when they are all spitted, put your herbs amongst them, and tye them together with a packthread; as they roast, put a dish under them with Claret-wine; when they are almost done, take your dish and set it on the coals, put grated bread, beaten Cinamon, Vinegar and Sugar to your wine, with a ladleful of drawn Butter, so dish up your Venison, and pour on this Lear, being not too thick, all over it.
Several sauces for your Fowl in general.
For Capons.
A Little sliced Manchet, soaked in some strong Broth with Onions, boyl it up in gravie, Nutmeg, Lemmon cut like Dice, and drawn Butter; put it under your Capons.
For Hens.
THe yolks of three or four hard eggs minced, a little drawn Butter, a spoonful or two of Claret-wine, gravie, and the juice of a Lemmon.
For Turkie.
TAke the same prescribed for your Capons.
For Chickens.
MInce a handful of Parslee very small, and wrap it up into a ball with a grated Nutmeg; put this into the bellies of your Chickens when you spit them, and take it forth when you draw them, adding some drawn Butter, put it to your Chickens; otherwise, the common way is drawn Butter, and Parslee minced.
A sauce for roast Pigeons.
THese are to be done as your Chickens before, only adding a little minced Bacon (to your Parslee) with a few Mints, so force their bellies; when they are roasted, take out their forced meat, put it into a little Claret-wine, and add to them grated bread and drawn Butter; you may use your Vine-leaves roasted, and mince them in.
Sauce for Rabbets.
TAke Butter and minced Parslee, and roast it in their bellies; otherwise you may use the like sauce you have for Leverets.
Sauce for Feasants, Heath-Poots, or Cocks of the wood.
TAke the same as was used for your Capons.
Sauce for Woodcocks.
YOu must for each Woodcock make a toast made of a Manchet; put to it gravie boyled up with an Onion, a little strong Broth, drawn Butter, and a little Nutmeg; pour this on your toasts, and dish up your Cocks.
Sauce for Quailes.
TAke a little Claret-wine, gravie, Nutmeg, Vine-leaves minced, with a little drawn Butter.
Sauce for Ducks, Wigeons, Teal, or Plover.
BOyl some Onions sliced very thin in a little strong Broth, put thereto gravie and a little drawn Butter, but your general rule for wild-fowl, is gravie boyled up with an Onion, a little Nutmeg and Butter; and for water-fowl, sliced Onions boyled up in strong Broth, with gravie, and a little drawn Butter.
BOOK XII.
Treats how to boyl or stew fish to be eaten hot with Compositions.
How to boyl, or stew fish, to be eaten hot.
TO boyl a Turbet, your Pan must be seasoned with good store of Salt, Wine Vinegar, a faggot or two of sweet herbs, a sliced Lemmon, and Ginger; when it boyls put in your Turbet, and let it boyl for above half an hour; take for your Leare, or sawce, some Oysters, Pranes, or Shrimps stewed up in a little Whitewine, a little large Mace, thicken it with the yolk of an egg, and put to it two or three ladles of drawn Butter, dish up your Turbet on Sippets, lay it on a good heap of coals to dry up the water; pour on your Leare, with the Oysters all over the top; garnish it with fryed bay-leaves and Lemmon; strow on the brims of your dish beaten Ginger.
To boyl a Pike.
YOu may split your Pike in the middle almost from the head, within a handful off te tail, so turn him round; Let both sides be brought over the head; the one over one side, and the other over the other side, and let the tayl be thrust into his mouth: or if you please, either you may cut off the head beyond the gills to the body-wards, that the head may stand upright in the dish, leaning forwards: Cut the tayl likewise off sloaping, allowing two handfulls of the fish with it. Then cut the body of the fish into two or three parts, and split it in the middle, your pan being well seasoned (as when you boyled the [Page 108] Turbet) boyl it up very quick; then take a little White wine, and a little horse Radish scrapt, a little Oyster liquor, a grated Nutmeg, and two or three Anchovies, beat them up with the yolk or two of an egg, and put to it two or three Ladles of drawn Butter, or as much as will serve: so dish up your Pike, the head standing up before, and the tail behind, and the rest of the Pike between; otherwise, as it was trusd round, so pour on your Lear, with your horse Radish over the top; you may use shellfish to it if you please: so stick it about with green Bay leaves fryed, or Rosemary fryed in batter, and garnish your dish with Lemmon; Remember to season all your Lear with salt.
To stew a Carp.
TAke a living Carp, and knock him on the head; open him in the belly, take heed you break not the gall; pour in a little Vinegar, and wash out all the blood, stir it about with your hand, and preserve it: then have a pan or skillet, on the fire, with so much White wine as will almost cover your fish, put to it an Onion cut in the middle, a Clove or two of Garlick, a Race of Ginger sliced, a Nutmeg quartered, a faggot or two of sweet herbs, three or four Anchovies; your Carp being cut out (as the Pike before) and rubbed all over with salt, when your Wine boils put him in, Cover him close, and let it stew up for about a quarter of an hour, then put in the blood and Vinegar, with a little Butter, so dish up your Carp upon yout Soope, and pour on your Lear, let your spawn, milt and Revet be laid over your Carp; you may thicken this Lear if you will, but it is generally eaten as a broth; so garnish it with Lemmon, and strow the brims of the dish with beaten Ginger.
Another way to boyl Carps.
KNock them on the head, and cut them up, preserve the spawn and the Liver, scale your Carps and wash them, salt them well, and put Vinegar to them, and when your pan boils, and is well seasoned with Salt, put in your Carps whole with the Vinegar and Salt they lie in, then dissolve two or three Anchovies in a spoonful or two of Wine; Mingle it with your drawn Butter, so dish up your Carp, and set them on Coals; Lay on the Liver or Spawns, and leare them all over; so garnish it with fryed Bay leaves, and Lemmon.
To stew a dish of Flounders.
TAke your Flounders being drawn and washed, and scortch them on the white side, and lay them in a deep dish, put to it a little White wine, a couple of Onions cut in halves, a bunch of sweet herbs, a race of Ginger sliced, a little whole Pepper, a handful of Oysters minced, and as much salt as will season it; cover these close, and stew them up with as much speed as may be, then dish them up on Sippets, and take so much of the bottom of your Lear as will serve you, thicken it with the yolk of an egg, and put drawn butter to it, and pour it over your Flounders; so garnish it with Lemmon, and strow on the brims of your dish beaten Ginger.
Another way.
WHen you have scortcht them, and laid them in your deep dish, put about a pint of sweet Sallet Oyl, half a pint of White wine, and the like of Vinegar to them, with two Races of Ginger sliced, some whole Cloves and Mace, a sliced Nutmeg, and a faggot or two of sweet herbs, with a couple of Onions cut, stew all these together, so dish up your Flounders on Sippets, then take a handful of minced Parslee parboyled green, and throw it into your Lear, let it boyl two or three Walms, and pour [Page 110] it over your Flounders, so garnish it with Lemmon and green parslee minced.
To Boyl Perches.
LEt your Liquor boyl, and your pan be seasoned as aforesaid, boyl them up very quick; then blanch them on both sides, and dish them upon Sippets; then take a little White wine, gravie, and vinegar, with a grated Nutmeg and a handful of Oysters cut in funder; put this all over your fish, and let it be ready to boyl in the dish you send it up in, so shake it together, and pour drawn butter all over it; Garnish it with Barberries and Lemmons.
How to make a Bisk of Fish.
TAke a very good Carp, scale him, take out all the bones, leave nothing but the fish, mince it or cut it with your knife in pieces, then charge a pipkin with White wine, and a little Vinegar, an Onion, a faggot of sweet herbs, some Ginger, a sliced Nutmeg, three Anchovies: then charge another Pipkin with Pranes, Shrimps, Crafish, and sliced Lobster, then charge a third pipkin with all manner of Shell-fish that you have; put of the same Lear, and seasoning to these as was in the first pipkin; Let your first pipkin boyl three or four walms, and put in your Carp as it boyls, with a pint of Oysters cut in sunder, season it with salt, beat (when tis done) a yolk of an egg to thicken it, and drawn butter; let it boyl very hastily for the time, else it will eat flashy and not crisp, thicken up your other Pipkins with drawn butter, and make them ready; then you must have in readiness about five Collerd Sowls, indored over with eggs, and baked an in Oven, with a good many balls of forced meat of fish, both yellow and green; you may also bake up in the same thing the Carps head, and four heads of other fishes; have likewise in readiness Smelts and Gudgeons fryed Crisp, and Sowls cut in pieces, and Whiteings fryed whole: then have four small Jacks boyled, and four Trouts, or such like fish: let your great dish be on [Page 111] the coals with a soop of light sippets, strow it all over with beaten Nutmeg, and Ginger; then dish up your great collerd Sowl, as a standard in the middle of your dish; and your stiff smelts as supporters round about it: then dish up your four Pikes, opposite one to another, their tails to the standard-wards, and their heads to the brims of the dish: dish the other four opposite to them, so that there be eight partitions in the dish left; fill two of them with your Carp and Oysters aforesaid, two of them with fryed Whitings, and the other four with Pranes, Shrimps, Cockles, and Perriwinckles; then you may dispose of your other four Collerd Sowls cross wayes, about the standard, in the four partitions, between the fish; then garnish on all the fish that you fryed, in vacant places, not hiding your small fish; But if they are pieces of fryed Sowls or Plaice, you may lay them over your bigger fish, then take some of your former Lear and Oyster Liquor, adding more Wine if you want Lear; and the meat in the Shell of a crab or two; boyl these up with a beaten Nutmeg and Anchovie, adding drawn butter, and let your Lear be as thick, or thicker then it; and when it is ready to boyl, take your Ladle and pour it all over the fish in your Bisk, (except the Carp;) so take your sliced Lobster, Crafish, and Oysters fryed in Batter, and garnish it everywhere, according to your own discretion; also take your forced meat out of the Oven, shake it with butter, and do the like as before: garnish round the sides of your dish with the heads of your fish, or how you please; then take the Carps head which was baked with the forced meat, and fasten it on the top of the standard in the middle, and the other four heads, upon the other four Sowls: take five branches of Rosemary and put through their mouths, and fasten it to the Collers, prick Bay leaves round the Collers, and sides of your forced meat. Although I have prescribed these kind of fishes, yet you may make use of such fish as the season will afford, or you can get.
To dress a Codds head t [...]e best way.
CUt off your Codds head beyond the Gills, that you may have part of the body with it, boyl it in water and salt, and having ready about a quart of Cockles, with the meat out of the shell of a Crab or two, put these in a pipkin with about a quarter of a pint of Whitewine, a bunch of sweet herbs, an Onion or two, with a little large Mace, and a grated Nutmeg; add to it a little Oyster Liquor set it on the fire, and when it boyls, and the liquor in it is wasted, put to it two or three Ladles of drawn butter, or as much as will serve; then dish up your Codds head on sippets, and put it on a good heap of coals to dry up the water, then cut the tripe of your Codd, as you cut pallats; also cut the pease, or spawn in thin slices, and the Liver in pieces, take likewise the Gill and pick out the bones, and cut it as you did the other; dish up your spawn or pease round about your Codds head, and some on the top, and put all over it your Tripe, Gill, and Liver, then take a ladle, and pour your leare over it, with a little drawn butter on that, and stick all your gill bone with Oysters fryed in batter, and stick them on the pease of the fish, and all over the head where they will enter; so garnish it over with the same Oysters, grate on a Nutmeg and send it smoaking up: take notice that the pease of your fish will ask more boyling then the head if it be a great one: also remember that you blanch off all the skin of your Codds head, when you dish it, and garnish it with Lemmon and fryed bay leaves.
To make an Olve of Fish.
TO this you may have all manner of fish, (that are not flat) as Carps, Pikes, Mullets, Base, Rotchets, Gurnets, Trouts, or Salmon-peel, &c. being all drest and washt: take the firmest and biggest for boyling, and the other for frying and forcing; when your Pan is seasoned, and your fish boyled off quick, according to the time that each takes its boyling; as also your other fish being all ready, dish on your sippers, some great fish turned round [Page 113] in the middle of your Charger, cise a Coller of Salmon baked in an Oven, with the heads of four fishes on the top of it; then dish your boyled fish round about, and your fryed fish between them, your Smelts, and Gudgeons round towards the brims of the dish: if you have forced meat of fish made in little bals you may garnish that between the boyled and the fryed; then having your Oysters, Cockles, Perriwinckles, Pranes, Crafish, or sliced Lobster, or any of these ready in your Lear of thick butter, Lear your fish therewith all over; stick your Coller with fryed bay leaves at the heads, and round the dish: so garnish it with Lemmon, grate on a Nutmeg, and send it up smoaking. I have heard of Cooks heaping up an Olue of fish on the top of one another, but that way is neither Honourable or profitable; the biggest Fish here that I advise you to lay on the other, are only Smelts, Gugdeons or pieces of Souls, or Flounders fryed up very Crisp and brown; and all manner of shell fish, as is shewn.
To boyl Mullet or Base to be eaten hot.
YOu must scale your Mullets or Base, and wash them, saving their Livers or Tripes, Rows, or spawns: Boyl them up in Water, Salt, Vinegar, Wine, faggots of sweet herbs, sliced Lemmon, and two or three whole Onions, your lear must be drawn butter, large mace, whole Nutmeg cut in quarters, and two or three Anchovies dissolved in the wine you drew your butter withall; so dish up your fish, pour on your lear, (you must alwayes remember to season all your lear with salt to your Pallat,) and garnish it with fryed Oysters and Bay leaves; season your liquor after this manner for the boyling of most of your fish.
To stew, or make broth; with Whitings, or Smelts.
PUt on the coals in a deep dish half Wine and half water, put to it a race of Ginger sliced, a little large mace, a Nutmeg quartered, and two or three faggots of sweet herbs with Parslee, adding as much salt as will season it; let this all boyl up together half a dozen Walms, then put in your fish orderly, as they are to lye in your dish, when you send them up, and let them boyl hastily, with a little butter put into them; less then a dozen walms is sufficient for them; when they are enough, pour all the liquor into a pipkin; and set it on the fire again with your spice and sweet herbs that were in it, then mince a handful of parslee small, and a little fennel, and time, and let it boyl with the fish-broth: then wash out with Vinegar the meat of a shell or two of Crabs, with the Carkass of a Lobster, the yolks of two or three eggs, a ladle of drawn butter, beat all this together with some of the said liquor, and stir it into the pipkin untill it thickens, shift out your Smelts, or Whitings, on sippets as you will send them up, and pour on your lear, as it comes from the fire; this is an excellent broth and good for a weak stomach.
How to stew or boyl Eels.
YOu may Coller up one of the biggest of your Eels, and boyl him up, and the other being flead, cut in pieces twice as long as your finger, stew them up with half white wine, and half water, with an Onion or two, and some faggots of sweet herbs, large Mace, and whole Pepper; when they are half stewed, put to them a pint of Oysters with a little minced parslee and time; when they are ready, put to them drawn butter, and vinegar; if your lear be not thick, you must add the yolk or two of an egg; dish up your Collerd Eele in the middle, and your pieces round about it to the dish brim, and your Oysterrs, and lear over the wh [...]e; you may garnish it with brown pieces of fryed fish about the breadth of a plaice.
Anoth [...]r way.
CUt your Eels as aforesaid, and stew them up; when they are above half done, take a spoonful or two of Ale yest beaten up with a little vinegar, and put therein, with a greater quantity of parslee and sweet herbs then was in the last, so dish them up, served to the Table in their broth, adding salt.
To dresh a dish of small Jack.
CUt off the heads of them, put them into balls of forced meat made of fish, so that the heads may stand upright, or looking forwards; indore them over with yolks of eggs, and put them into an Oven a baking, then cut your Jacks in pieces, stew them up in a dish, with a little white wine, water, salt, vinegar, sweet herbs, two or three Anchovies, Mace, sliced Ginger and Nutmeg; when this boyls up in your deep dish, put in your Pike and some small forced meat bals of fish, both green, yellow, and white; let them boyl, then turn the other side with a knife, let them boyl again, then take out your forced heads, and set them round in the dish: take out your Jacks with your slice, and place them in the best manner; between and about them, all over the dish, put Smelts fryed stiff in the mouths of your Jacks, and put your forced meats round about them; you may if you please add fryed fish, oysters, or others.
To stew a dish of Breams.
YOur Breams being drest, washt, dried well, scortcht buttered and salted over, put them upon your Gridiron, being very hot, (over charcoals) when they are pretty brown on both sides but not burnt, put them into a great dish boyling on the fire, with a little Claret wine, half a pint of gravy, two or three Onions, as many Anchovies, with a little minced Time, and a pint of Oysters; put to this some drawn butter, and a grated Nutmeg; see that your lear be pretty thick, then dish up your Bream with your Oysters and lear on it, and strow it over with the yolks of [Page 116] eggs: but if there be any Roman Catholicks, or others, whose conscience scruples to eat of flesh on fasting days, you may stew it up after another manner; which is, take the Breams broiled as aforesaid, with a little Claret wine, Vinegar, large Mace, sweet herbs, and Anchovies; put to this about a pint of sweet Sallet Oyl, then put in your fish, and let it stew together with some Oysters if you please; dish up your fish on sippets, and pour your lear thereon; you may do the like by divers sorts of fish.
BOOK XIII.
Containing how to Bake, Fry, Broyl, Rost, and Frigacy certain sorts of Fish.
How to make Sawce or Lear without Butter, or thickning with Eggs.
YOu must clarifie your Oyl to take away the tast and strength of it; then take part thereof, or so much as you use, for your fish, and when its hot in your pan, put in a handful of sliced Onions, and let them frie, then put in as much White wine and Vinegar as your oyl contains, with some large mace, a quartered Nutmeg, sliced Ginger, Oyster liquor, and minced Oysters, three or four Anchovies, boyl this together; you may thicken it with the meat, or carkass of a Lobster, and Crab, otherwise with the Rasping of stale grated bread, dish up your fish when they are broyled, fryed, or boyled, and lear them over with the same: to boyl fish you may add a handful of parslee and sweet herbs minced to be boyled up in your lear.
To fry Fish, and all manner of Garnishing with Oyl.
YOu must let your Oyl boyl in your pan, untill it hath done bubling; your fish being dried and flowred, put them in the pan, and fry them away crisp, as before, in clarified butter: so must you fry your Oysters in batter, or other shelled fish, and when you have done frying your fish, fry up your garnishing, as Bay leaves, Alexander leaves, young Fennel, Parslee, Rosemary, and toasts of stale bread.
Another way, how to thicken your lear for fish without eggs.
TAke the pease of a Codd, or the spawn of Salmon, and the Livers withal, or else the Livers of Rea Skeate or Thornback: let them all be well boyled, beat them all in a Morter together, with so much of the pease as you intend to use; Beat this into your aforesaid lear of Oyl and Wine; this is a wholesome and good way for dressing fish, and those which are used to it, desire it more then with butter.
To stew a dish of Trouts.
FIrst let your pan be very hot with clarified butter, and give them a sudden brown, with what violence you can: have a stewing dish ready on the fire, with gravie, Oyster liquor, a little Claret wine, and Vinegar, put your fryed fish therein, (you must note they were to be split in half before frying) fry three or four sliced Onions, and when they are brown, put them to your fish, with a handful of parslee fryed green, a sliced Nutmeg, two or three Anchovies, and let it just boyl up together; then dish up you Trout in your dish upon sippets; whilst your Lear is boyling on the fire, if it be not thick enough, you may add an egg, drawn butter, and some of the butter the Onions and Parslee was fryed in. But your better way for crispness and sight of your fish is to fry your split fish, as Trout, Salmon Peal, and Salmon, very crisp and brown: dish it up with the inside uppermost: [Page 118] so pour on your aforesaid Lear, and strow all over it parslee fryed green.
To boyl, and serve a whole Salmon.
WHen you have drawn and washt out your Salmon, you must run your penknife on both sides towards the back, in and out, in Scollops, from the head to the tail, then take a string and truss up the head to the tail, and put him upon your false bottom: you liquor boyling ing in a deep pan, being highly seasoned, especially with salt and vinegar, put in your Salmon, and let it boyl something more then an hour, or untill you think it is enough; then take it up, and dish it in your Charger on Sippets, and having your fryed Collops of Salmon, very thin, garnish it all about, and on the top of your Salmon; you must have ready fryed some toasts picked at both ends; stick them all full with Oysters fryed in Batter, and prick the other end of the toasts, upon the back and upper side of the Salmon, then lear it all over with drawn butter, and if you please a little Vinegar; so prick on and garnish it with bay leaves.
To Roste a Pike.
YOu must lard him very well (being salted) all over with Pickle Herring, and season him with salt, a little beaten Pepper, Nutmeg, and some minced Time t if you have two, you may put one on the one side the spit, and the other on the other side; with two or three sticks on each side your Pikes, to splinter them together, and bind them over with packthred, and let them roast, sometimes letting the back stand towards the fire, and sometimes the sides, not turning them as you do flesh, unless you see occasion to keep them from burning; then dissolve half a dozen Anchovies in a little Butter, and paste them therewith; after they are half roasted, put down two sticks of Oysters, betwixt each Oyster a bay leaf, let there be a dish under them to catch that which they are basted withal, with a little Claret wine, Oyster liquor, minced Time, and a grated Nutmeg; when your Oysters are ready, draw [Page 119] them into your dish, taking out the Bay leaves, and put in an Onion cut in halves, and let them boyl on the fire, then take up your spit, and cut your strings, that you may lay the brown side of your Pike upwards, (or if you can his back) then put a ladle of drawn butter to your lear and oysters, and pour it over your Pikes, and garnish it all over with Lemmons: your more safe way, is, to order it after the same manner aforesaid, to put him in a dish, and bake him in an Oven; and the same form you pat him in, you may shift him into your dish you send him up in, and so lear him as before, and garnish him with fryed bay leavs.
To Roast Eels.
WHen they are flead, cut them to pieces, about four inches long, dry them, and put them into a dish; mince a little Time, two Onions, a piece of Lemmon pill, a little Pepper beaten small, Nutmeg, Mace and Salt: It being all exceeding small, strow it on your Eels with the yolks of two or three eggs, so mingle in the seasoning altogether with your hands: then having a small spit, (otherwise take a couple of square sticks made for that purpose) spit through your Eel cross wayes, and put a Bay leaf between every piece of Eel, tying your sticks on a spit, let them be roast; you need not turn them constantly, but let them stand untill they hiss, or are brown, so do them on the other side; and put the dish underneath (which the Eel was in with the seasoning) to save the gravie, baste it over with drawn Butter, put a little Claret wine, minced Oysters, a grated Nutmeg, and an Onion, with some drawn butter; give it one boyl up, and dish up your Eel with your lear over it.
To Rost Porpus.
TAke a Joll of Porpus, stick it with Sage and Rosemary all over, and lard it very thick with the back of Pickle herring, then split it if it be too bigg; split it, so fasten it on your spit with tape, baste it over with the yolk of an egg: and whilst it is moist, strow on minced Onions and Time together; boyl three or four Onions sliced thin in a little Claret wine, and put in two or three Anchovies, and beaten Pepper; you must keep your Porpus basted with butter; and when it is roasted and brown enough; then put a spoonful or two of mustard and vinegar to your aforesaid sawce, as it boyls, and shake it with a ladle of drawn butter, so dish up your Porpus, and pour on your Lear; forget not to season it with salt, before you put it to the fire.
To Rost a Carp.
TAke a great live Carp, and when it is scaled and drawn, make a little hole in the belly, and dry up all the blood, both within and without, then take two handfuls of your aforesaid Chewit meat, adding to it a handfull of grated bread, a little cream, the yolks of three eggs, with the white of one, put to it one handful of Sugar, make it into a pretty stiff body, and force your Carps belly full of the said meat, and put it upon a spit: otherwise you may bake it in an Oven, upon two or three cross sticks in a brass dish; when it hath been in the Oven a while, turn it, and let the gravy run into the dish: when its enough, dish it on sippets, and add to the gravie of the Pike, a little Oyster liquor, and drawn butter; let your lear be thick; so garnish your Pike with small fish fryed, and shell fish, so pour on your Lear.
To roast a Salmon whole.
TAke a Salmon and draw it at the gills, scale, wash and dry it; then lard it all over with pickle Herring, or a fat salted Eele; take two or three handfuls of parboyled Oysters, season them with grated bread, a handful of sweet herbs, four or five hard eggs, an Onion, minced all together, add to it Cloves, Mace, Ginger, Nutmeg, Pepper and Salt, mingle these together, and put them into the belly of the Salmon, at the gills; then lay him in an earthen pan, fit for him to lie in, on sticks in the Oven, put therein a little Claret-wtne, baste over your Salmon well with Butter, before you put him in; and when it is enough, draw it, and thicken your Lear with your gravie that comes out with him, and some of the spawn of the Salmon boyled and beaten, or with the meat of a Crab or Lobster, so pour on your Lear, with drawn Butter on the top, and stick it all over with toasts, and Bay-leaves fryed: you may open his belly and take forth the Oysters, and garnish about him also; your safest way to keep him from breaking, is to turn him round in a dish and bake him.
How to Spitchcock an Eele.
TAke a fair Eele, and split him in the back close to the bone, from the head to the tail, but not through the belly; scour him well with Salt, and wash him, lay him up, and dry him, and cut the bone through all along the back, that it may have no strength to double up the Eele, when it is on the Gridiron; then cut him (if he be large) in six pieces; wash him over in the inside with Butter, and sprinkle on Salt, and a little minced Time; your Gridiron being very hot upon the coals, lay him on with the inside downwards, and when he is broyled on that side, turn him, and let him broyl on the skinny side very well; so dish him up, and pour all over him drawn Butter, Vinegar, and a grated Nutmeg, garnish him round with Bay-leaves.
There is some fish which is hard to broyl, that I have often seen to drop through the Gridiron, done by them [Page 122] who thought scorn to be taught; therefore I shall give some general rules for the broyling of these, as Whitings, Haddocks, young Codds, Herring, or Mackerill, &c.
For Broyling.
IN the first place be sure your Gridiron be exceeding clean; secondly let it be exceeding hot, and wash the bars with butter; then let your most rottenst fish be very dry, washed over with Butter, and extreamly salted over that; then put the back of your fish to the fire-ward, upon the salted side, until your Gridiron be full; then butter them over the upper side, and strow them well with Salt, then turn them (when they are brown enough on the other side) and put them over a hot fire again; the fire being thus hot, and so salted, it will bind the fish together so that it will not break; when you take them up, you may put a plate on the top of them, and turn them thereon, as you turn a Tanzie.
To broyl Flownders or Plaice.
YOu must scorch them over on both sides, and broyl them as aforesaid, and let your Lear be Butter and Vinegar, (or you may take a richer if you please) you may split Salmon Peals, or Trouts, and observe this way of broyling; if you send the outside upward, it will seem two fishes for one; if the other side upmost, it will shew handsom and yellow; so with a ladleful of drawn Butter, a little Vinegar and Nutmeg, is a lear for the said fish; strow it all over with Parslee fryed green; all these fryed and broyled fish, do many times help forth, for want of other dishes in the second course; therefore have I made mention of them to that purpose, by which rules you may be enabled to understand the nature, and how to order most kinds of fish.
How t [...] fry a dish of Maides.
FIrst skin them, then half boyl them in water and salt, let your water boyl very fierce when you put them in, then take them forth and dry them very well, and flower them; then make a batter of about a dozen yolks of eggs, (with three whites amongst them) a spoonful of flower, a little Nutmeg, Ginger and Salt; then take a handful of Parslee boyled green and minced very small, beat all these together with a little Sack, let it be a thick batter; set on your pan with clarified Butter, dip your Maides into your batter, and when your pan is hot, put them in, and fry them as crisp and brown as you can (do not over charge your pan) so done, dish them up, and let their Lear be Butter, Vinegar, Nutmeg, beaten together, with the livers of the said fish, strow them all over with Parslee fryed green.
To fry a dish of Ling for first course.
WHen you boyl Ling for dinner, you must save a Joll, and at night when it is cold and congealed together, you may cut it out in Collops as broad as your thumb or finger, then having your yolks of eggs beaten, and your pan hot with clarified stuff, dip your Ling in your eggs, and charge your pan; (otherwise flower your Ling well, and fry it without eggs) then dish up your Ling, and having about a dozen potched eggs, butter your Ling all over with drawn butter, and lay on your potched eggs upon your Ling, so cover it and send it hot to the Table; this may as well be done with Oyl to them which love it.
How to Frigacy or Butter Crabs or Lobsters.
TAke out all the meat in the shells, and break the Claws of your Lobster, and take out the meat, mince it, or slice it, and put it into the other; add to it a spoonful or two of Claret-wine, a little Fennel minced, and a grated Nutmeg, let it boyl up, then put in a little drawn Butter, a little Vinegar, and the yolk of an egg, if it be not thick [Page 124] enough; if there are Lobsters, you may dish them up with sippets round in saucers, on a plate, garnish them with Fennel and Bay-leaves; or you may dish them in a dish with sippets: if they are Crabs, put it in the shell it was taken out, and garnish it round with their Fins, stick them with toasts, and to them only should you add a little Cinamon and Ginger beaten in the buttering.
How to Frigacy Shrimps, Perriwinkles, Pranes, Crawfish, &c.
TO these you must put a little Claret-wine, an Onion or two cut in pieces, a couple or two of Anchovies, and a faggot of sweet-herbs; stew them or any one of them up together with a little Ginger and Nutmeg; toss them up with the yolk of an egg, a little Vinegar and drawn butter; you may put them into little Coffins, like Hearts or Diamonds, to garnish a Bisk or Olue; Otherwise to be dished up on sippets, for a second course dish.
A Phraise of Cockles.
TAke your Cockles, boyl them, and pick them out of the shells, wash them clean from gravell, then break a dozen eggs, with a little Nutmeg, Cinamon and Ginger, and put your Cockles therein, and beat them together with a handful of grated bread, and a quarter of a pinte of Cream, then put Butter into your Frying-pan, and let it be hot, as for eggs, and put in the Phraise; supply it with Butter in the sides of the pan, and let the thin of the eggs run still into the middle, till it moves round, and when it is fryed on that side, butter your plate, and turn it, and put it into your pan again, and fry the other side brown; then take it forth and dish it, and scruise on the juice of Lemmons, and strow on Ginger and Cinamon, and send it up; you may green it with the juice of Spinnage, and cut it out into quarters, and garnish your fish of either sort; thus may you fry Pranes, Periwinkles, or other shell fish.
How to broyl Oysters.
SEt your great Oysters, then take a little minced Time, grated Nutmeg, and grated bread, and a little Salt, put this to your Oysters, then get some of the largest bottom shells, and place them on your Gridiron, and put two or three Oysters in each shell; then put some Butter to them, and let them boyl on the fire, till the lower side is brown, supplying it alwayes with melted Butter; when they are brown to your mind, then feed them with White-wine and some of their own liquor, with a little grated bread, Nutmeg and minced Time, so let it boyl up again; then add some drawn Butter to thicken them, and dish them on a dish and plate; but if you have Scollups shells, it is the best way to broyl them in.
To broyl Scollups.
FIrst boyl your Scollups, then take them out of the shells and wash them, then slice them, and season them with Nutmeg, and Ginger, and Cinamon, put them into the bottom of your shells again, with a little Butter, White-wine and Vinegar, and grated bread; let them be broyled on both sides: if they are sharp, they ought to have a little Sugar added to them: for your matter of the fish is sweet; but you may do them another way with Oyster liquor and gravie, and Anchovies, minced Onion and Time, with the juice of a Lemmon in them. I have done them both wayes, but the sweet and sharp is the more natural way.
How to Bake certain Fish.
To bake a Carpe two wayes.
SCald your Carp, and season him with a little Pepper, Cloves, Mace, Ginger and Salt; your Coffin being made fit for him; (if you have two, you must make your Coffin for one to turn one way, and the other another way) put therein two or three Onions cut in halves, a handful or two of Oysters, seasoned with Time, being added to the aforementioned spices; then put in the yolks of four or five hard eggs, with Butter thereon, and close up your Pie; when it is baked, let your Lear be drawn Butter and a little gravie drawn from the meat with Claret-wine, beaten up with the yolk of an egg; put it in at the funnel of your Pie, shake it together, and so dish it up; if you cut it up, you may take out the Onions; some do bake them sweet, being thus seasoned with Raisons and Currans, Dates and Pruens, with a sweet and sharp Lear with Butter, Vinegar, Sugar, and the yolks of two or three eggs beaten.
To make an Eele Pie.
YOur Eeles must be flead, washed, and cut in picees as long as your finger; put to them a handful of sweet herbs, Parslee minced with an Onion; season them with Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Mace and Nutmeg; and having your Coffin ready made, of good hot Butter Paste, put all over them a handful or two of Currans, and a Lemmon cut in slices, then put on Butter and close your Pie; when it is baked, add to it a Lear made with a little Vinegar and White-wine, beaten up with the yolks of a couple of eggs, and a little drawn Butter, put this in at the funnel of your Pie, and shake it together upon your plate.
To bake a Turbet.
YOur Turbet being washed and drawn, and the fins barbed round about, scorch him on both sides, season him very well with sweet herbs, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, Pepper and Salt on the under side; season him in the scorches (in the upper side) only with Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, and Salt; then make your Coffin in the manner and form of a Turbet; dry him in your Oven, then take him forth, and wash him in the inside with the yolks of eggs, and strow the bottom over with a minced Onion, and half a dozen Anchovies, then put in your Turbet, with the back side downward; and having some small forced-meat balls of fish, put round about by the sides, and put Oysters and the refuse and liver all over him on the top, and the yolks of six hard eggs, with good store of Butter, and put him in the Oven; see that you supply him with Butter in the Baking; let the bottom of your Oven be very hot, that he may boyl up to the top; when he is baked, make your Lear with White-wine, Vinegar, Oyster liquor; let it be hot, and beat it up with the yolks of three or four eggs, and put it to your Turbet, shaking it together that it mingle with your Butter; put it in the Oven again for a little while, and then dish it up; garnish it on the top with fryed Oysters, and stick it all over with toasts, putting drawn Butter on the top; having a Cut dryed in on a bottom of a dish, lay it on your Pie, and send it up.
To bake a Salmon Pie to be eaten hot.
TAke the tayl of a whole Salmon, cut off by the fins, so that you spoyl not the Joll; then cut it in Collops quite through both sides, Chine and all, until you have cut it down to the tail, then Butter your Collops over and Salt them, and half broyl them on both sides on a hot Gridiron; then take them off, and having a Coffin ready, set and dryed in an Oven, that may be big enough to contain the said Collop; and having a handful of sweet herbs, a little Fennel an Onion, with a handful of Oysters, all minced exceeding small, take out your d [...]yed Coffin, wash the [Page 128] bottom thereof with the yolks of eggs, and see that it may not run; then take a handful of the said herbs (being seasoned with Cloves, Mace, Ginger, Nutmeg, Pepper and Salt) and strow them over the bottom of your Coffin; then lay in your greatest Collops first, and strow them over with your sweet herbs and seasoning; and prick on seasoned Oysters all over, with sliced Lemmon; then lay on your smallest pieces on them, and do by them as before to the greater, so put on butter, and put it into the Oven, that it may boyl; then having your Lear, (with a little wine, Oyster liquor beaten in with the yolk of an egg) also ready to boyl, put it into your Pie, and let it only boyl up in the Oven: this done, take it out, and shake it together with a little drawn Butter, strow it over with the yolks of hard eggs minced small, and send it up with a Cut thereon.
To bake a Joll of Ling in a Pie.
LEt your Ling be almost boyled, then season it with Pepper only (the skin being first taken off) strow the bottom of your Coffin with an Onion or two minced small, close your Pie and bake it; then take the yolks and whites of about a dozen eggs, not boyled altogether hard, mince them small with your knife, and put them into drawn Butter, toss them together, draw your Pie, and pour in this Lear of eggs all over, and shake it together: so put on your lid, and dish your Pie.
Another way.
SEason it, and put it into the Coffin, as aforesaid, lay on sliced Ginger and large Mace, close it up, and put a funnel thereon, put it in the Oven until the sides and bottom be hardened, then draw it, and fill it with Oyl, so that it may boyl to the top of the Ling; then put it in again, and let it remain until it is baked: draw it and cut it up: beat three or four spoonfuls of Mustard, with some of the said Oyl, or others, and pour therein, shaking your Pie, that it may mingle all together.
To bake a Pike in a Coffin.
WHen he is washed and drawn, lard him with pickle Herting, mince a good handful of sweet herbs, one Onion, and a handful of Oysters, with a little Lemmon-pill: put to them some Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg: wash over your Pike with the yolks of eggs, both the inside and outside, and season him with the forementioned minced ingredients: (being before scorched on both sides) then having your Coffin ready (in the form of a Pike) lay him in, with a little forced-meats round about him, and scraped Horse-Radish, with a handful or two of Grapes all over him, put on Butter and close him: when he is baked, lear him with White-wine, Vinegar, drawn Butter, and the yolk of an egg: put it in, shake them together, and let it stand a little while in the Oven. If you would have him richly baked, you may add Oysters and Shell fish, yolks of hard eggs, Lemmon, Anchovies and gravie to your Lear.
To bake a Lump in a Coffin.
YOu must flea him, and cut all the fish from the bones in pieces about the bigness of your two fingers, season it with minced Time, sweet herbs, Cloves, Mace, Ginger, Salt, and a little Pepper, with a handful of grated bread; your Coffin being made, strow in the bottom thereof one handful of the seasoning, and put therein your Collops of fish; and put on them pieces of Marrow, Oysters, the yolks of hard eggs cut in halves, with sliced Lemmon; lay on the top of that more seasoning; lay over the rest of your fish, and supply them with the ingredients (in order) before mentioned, with a few small balls of forced fish upon the top of them, put on butter enough to bake it, and close up your Pie, and put it into the Oven, and when it is baked, put in a Lear of White-wine, Oyster liquor, drawn Butter, and the yolk or two of an egg; cut up your Pie, or put it in at the funnel, and shake it about; so serve it up.
To bake Flounders or Plaice.
WHen they are drawn and washed, fin them, and scorch them, season them with Pepper, Salt, Mace and Nutmeg, mince an Onion and strow in the bottom of your Coffin, then put in your Plaice, lay on them some Lobster cut in pieces, the yolks of hard eggs, and a handful of grapes if you have any, then put on Butter, close your Pie, put him into the Oven and bake him; let your Lear be a little White-wine Vinegar, boyled Parslee minced small [...], the carkase of a Lobster, drawn Butter, and the yolk of an egg, all which put into your Pie when it is baked, and shake it together, and serve it up.
To bake an Oyster Pie.
TAke a good handful of Parslee, Time, Wintersavoury, an Onion or two, mince them very small, put to them a little grated bread, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, Salt and Pepper beaten, season your great parboyled Oysters, and put them into your Coffin; put on them some blanched Chesnuts and a Potatoe boyled and cut in pieces, with the yolks of hard eggs cut in halves; if it be not a fasting day, you may add Marrow, so put over it some sliced Lemmon, large Mace, Butter, and close up your Pie, and bake him; you must put them in a thin Coffin, for a little more then half an hour will be a sufficient baking for them; when it is enough, lear it with Oyster liquor, White-wine, the yolk or two of an egg, and drawn Butter: cut up your Pie and put it in; shake it together, and let it stand a little in the oven, and serve it up.
To make a Batillye of Pie of Fish.
YOu must set a large Coffin, cut with battlements, and set forth round the Coffin, with as many Towers as will contain your several sorts of fish; you may set it in the inside also, from one bending to another, for partitions, to lay your several fish with their Lear asunder; dry your Coffin well, and wash it over in the inside with the yolks of eggs; flower it in the bottom to soder it; then what ever fish you have prepared before so your Pie, must be either broyled or fryed brown; in the middle of your Pie, you may put the head of a Salmon cut off beyond the gills, forced and baked in an Oven; bake the heads likewise of your other fish, that they may stand upon forced meat bottoms, then dish up all your fish in order, every sort one opposite to another, placed in the several partitions, and having ready your Oysters, Cockles, Perriwinkles and Pranes, being boyled up in Lears (as you have been formerly taught) and thickened up with drawn butter, pour it over your fish, and garnish on your shell-fish all over, and let the forced heads stand over the battlements; if your Pie be full of lear, you may let it stand in the Oven to keep warm; when you send it away, pour on lear on the top, garnish it with fryed Oysters or Lemmon, or what you please.
You may make the like partitions upon a sheet of Paste in a dish, with a standing battlement set round the brims; in which partitions you may dish up all manner of shelled fish, and send them severally to the Table with their distinct lears.
To make Peteets of Shrimps or Pranes.
WHen you have made your little Coffins like Hearts, Diamonds, round or how you please; you may fry up your shelled fish, with the yolks of eggs, Cinamon, Ginger, Nutmeg, Cloves and Mace beaten together, and when they are crisp and brown, fill your dryed Coffins with a lear made with a little Claret-wine, drawn Butter, and Oyster-liquor, beaten up with the yolk or two of an [Page 132] egg; so put it to your fish, and let it stand in the oven until you dish it up.
By these rules in boyling, broyling, roasting and baking of those varieties of fish before mentioned, the ingenuous Practitioner may know the nature, and how to order and dress any other.
To Marrinate a Carp, to be eaten hot or cold.
TAke a large Carp, scaled, scoured and washed clean from the slime, split him through the head down the back, dry him with a cloth, sprinkle him with Salt, and flower him dry; let your pan be hot, full with oyl or clarified Butter; fry him away very crisp and brown, put him in a broad pan with as much White-wine as will cover him, with some fryed Bay-leaves and Rosemary, a faggot or two of sweet herbs, with some sliced Ginger, Nutmeg, Cloves, Mace, whole Pepper, Salt, and a sliced Lemmon; so you may dish it up with some of the liquor, garnish it with Bay-leaves and Lemmon, with your spices all over it.
To Hash a Carp.
TAke a good male Carp or two, scale and scrape off the slime with your knife; when you open them, wash out the blood with a little White-wine, cut off the heads, then take all the flesh from the bone, and cut it in pieces as big as the top of your thumb; you may cut after the same manner a fat Eele amongst it; then take about a pinte of White-wine, or Claret-wine, put to it a faggot or two of sweet herbs, a quartered Nutmeg, Ginger, Mace, a couple of whole Onions, and two or three Cloves of Garlick; when all these ingredients have boyled a little while in the Wine, take them out, then add to your Wine half a pinte of Oyster liquor, a piece of Butter, and the blood of your Carp you saved before; and when it boyls very fast, put in your Hash of Carps and Eele, with about a pinte of Oysters; add to it Salt, a grated Nutmeg, and two or three Anchovies, and let it boyl as fast as it can until it is enough, and crisp, then beat up the yolks of two [Page 133] or three eggs, with a ladleful of drawn Butter to thicken it, so dish it upon sippets, and stick it with toasts fryed stiff, with fryed Oysters over them.
A Frigacy of fresh Salmon.
TAke a tayl of fresh Salmon, and cut it out in pieces as long as your thumb, not altogether so thick; take sweet Margerum, Time, Parslee, a little Fennel, and mince it exceeding small; season it with Salt, small Pepper, Cloves, Mace, Ginger, and Nutmeg beaten; put all these to your pieces of Salmon, with the yolks of eight eggs, mingle it all well together; your pan being full of liquor and hot, put it in with two or three hands, because you must part it one from another, that it fryes not in lumps: when it begins to turn brown, and is about half fryed, put out your Butter from it, and put in about half a pinte of White-wine, as much Oyster liquor, a pinte of set Oysters, with a little minced Time, Nutmeg, three Anchovies, an Onion or two whole: when it is enough, beat the yolks of two or three eggs with a little of the liquor, put it in and keep it shaking together, let it be thick, so dish it up on sippets, and put drawn butter over it: you may garnish it with Shell-fish, sliced Lobster, or fryed Oysters: set it on the coals, and grate a Nutmeg over it: if none be offended with flesh, you may add half a pinte of gravie to this lear.
To Frigacy great Plaice or Flounders.
RUn your knife all along upon the bone, on the black side of your Plaice: then raise the flesh on both sides from the head to the tayl, and take out the bone clear; then cut it down the middle, where the bone went, and likewise cross wayes, that it may be in Collops the length of half the breadth of the Plaice, about two inches broad: it being very well dryed from the water, and sprinkled with Salt, and flowered very dry, fry it away in a very hot pan of Clarified stuff, so that it may be very crisp take it out of the pan, keep it warm in an Oven, or by the fire: make clean your pan, and put into it a ladleful of butter, [Page 134] a little White-wine, and Oyster liquor, the meat of the shells of a Crab or two, with about a pinte of Oysters, half of them minced, a little minced Time, a grated Nutmeg, with two or three Anchovies; let all these stew up together in your pan, then put in your fryed Plaice, and toss them up all together, dish them on sippets, and pour over all your Lear: garnish them with the yolks of hard eggs minced, and slices of Lemmon: After this manner you may do Trouts, Salmon, Pikes, Mullets, Bace, or any firm fish: you may also make them green as well as yellow, because of having varieties of colours, as well as tastes at your table.
To make Chewits of Salmon.
YOu must first broyl half a dozen slices of Salmon cut off from the tail, when it is above half broyled, and cold; you may mince it with a handful of set Oysters, and some Marrow; then mince a little Time, Parslee, sweet Margerum very small, with a few Chesnuts, Pistaches, and a piece of a Lobster; put all these together, and season them with Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, Cinamon, Ginger and Salt; so you may fill your small Chewits, and bake them in an Oven, and when they come forth, lear them with Gravie, Oyster liquor, and a little drawn butter, this will serve to garnish your Bisk Pie, or other boyled or baked meats of fish.
To broyl a Carp.
LEt your Carp be scaled, washed and scoured clean from the slime and blood, then scorch it on both sides, and wash it over with butter, and season it in the scorches, with Time, Nutmeg and Salt; then put it on your Gridiron, and broyl it softly over Charcoals: keep it basting whiles it is thereon, (you may also broyl some Collops of Salmon with it) then set upon the coals in a stewing-dish, a quarter of a pinte of Claret-wine, a little Oyster liquor, a few minced Oysters, and hard eggs, with a handful of Pranes: when your Carp or Carps are broyled, dish them up, and garnish them with fryed Collops of Salmon, and [Page 135] pour on your Lear (being thick) with a ladleful of drawn butter.
To force an Eele.
SCour great Eeles with Salt, and flea them, with the head and part of the nose unto the skin, then cut the bone from your Eele, and mince your Eele or Eeles very small, with a handful or two of Oysters; mince likewise a handful of Parslee and Time, with a few other sweet herbs, and a great Onion: season it with Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Mace, Ginger, and Nutmeg: put to it a good many bits of butter, and make it up into a body with the yolks of raw eggs: then fill your Eele-skins down to the tail, and sew them up to the head, sew up the slit of the belly towards the head, and the head and neck together: fill them not too full for fear they should swell, and break in the boyling: turn them round, as you do a salt Eele, and boyl them; you may afterwards broyl them if you please: and send them up garnished with Bay-leaves, for a second course dish: or you may cut them in pieces for the garnishing of other fish; otherwayes you may almost boyl them, when they are first fleaed, and season them with the aforesaid seasoning, but very high like a Sassage: only add more to them some Sallet oyl in the mixing; fill them as before, and dry them in your Chimney: when they are enough, you may slice them out, and eat them with Oyl and Vinegar: you may do Salmon or other fish after the same manner in Eeleskins.
BOOK XIV.
Contains several sorts of hot baked Meats of flesh.
To bake a Gammon of Bacon, to be eaten hot, with the Ingredients.
TAke a Westphalie Gammon of Bacon, and boyl him down, take off the skin, season him with Pepper, and a little minced Sage; stick him with Lemmon peel in the upper side; then having a Coffin of hot buttered past, (something high) put him in the middle thereof; take a dozen of Pigeons, and as many Lamb stones, and sweet breads, of each: season them with Pepper, Salt, Cloves, and Mace; lay your Pigeons round about the Gammon, and your Lamb stones, and Sweet breads round and on the top of it; Lay over it large Mace, a few sweet herbs minced, and put on butter all over; the Gammon being tenderly boyled before, will be fully baked with the Pigeons and sweet breads: close up your Pye, and let it have a gentle soaking; your crust need not be very thick for so much baking as your Ingredients will ask; when he is enough, let your Lear be Claret wine, boyled up with two or three Onions, a faggot of sweet herbs, with half a handful of sage boyled and minced, a little strong broth, and drawn butter thickened up with the yolk of an egg; when you dish up your Pye, cut it open, pour in your lear, and shake it about, put on your lid again, and serve it.
To make a steak Pye of Mutton.
CUt out a Loyn of Mutton in steakes, cut away the chine bone as much as you can, beat them flat with the back of your Cleaver, season them with Pepper, Salt, and minced Time, and put them into your Pye, close it up, and bake it, then take half a handfull of Capers, and as much Sampier, mince them with an Onion small, boyl them up in a little Claret wine, put to them two or three Anchovies, a grated Nutmeg, a little gravie, so thicken it with the yolk of an egg, and a little drawn butter; when your Pie is enough, take it out, and cut it up, and pour in your Lear all over your steakes; and turn them in your Pye that the lear may mingle with them.
Another way.
LEt your meat be cut forth, and seasoned as aforesaid, adding some Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg beaten, with an onion or two minced, so fill your Coffin, and put on it a handful or two of Raisons, and some Cabbage Lettice, if it be at that Time of the year, and when it is closed and baked, take a little strong broth, and White wine, with a little Vinegar, the yolk or two of an egg, and drawn butter; this beat up together for your Lear: so open your Pye, pour it in, shake it together, put on your Lid, and serve it: if you please, you may season it only with Pepper and Salt, putting in a little Claret wine, when it is half baked, and so it is a a good plain way, and favoury meat.
For a sweet Lamb Pye.
CUt out your Loyn of Leg of Lamb, season it in little pieces, with a little small Pepper, some Salt, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, and minced Time; your Coffin being made, put in your Lamb, strow on a handful of currans; lay over it all some small balls of sweet forced meat (in the winter time, take boyled Potatoes cut in pieces, and quartered dates, a little Orangado, and Citern; But in the Summer some pieces of Artichokes, Grapes, or hard Lettice,) put in some blades of large Mace, and close up your Pye, let your lear be Sugar and Verjuice beaten up together, with the yolks of two eggs, and a ladle of drawn butter: put it in your Pye when it is baked, shake it together, put on your lid, and serve it.
Another way for a savory.
SEason your Lamb with Pepper and Salt, a little Cloves, Mace, and Nutmeg, with Time minced, put into your Coffin, with a few Lambstones and sweet breads, seasoned with your Lamb, with as many Oysters, and savory forced meat balls, so put on butter, and close up your Pye: let your lear be three or four Anchovies dissolved in a little Claret wine, add a little Oyster liquor, gravie, and a grated Nutmeg, beat it up with the yolk of an egg, and a little drawn butter; when your Pye is enough, take it out, pour in your lear, and shake it together.
Another way.
SEason it as aforesaid, (you may put in some Artichokes, or hard Lettice in your Pye if you please) then take a little strong broth, a little White wine, and chop in the tops of two or three bunches of Sparragrass being boyled before, and some green boyled parslee minced, add to this a ladleful or two of drawn butter and a grated Nutmeg: and when your Pye comes out of the oven, pour it all over the meat thereof, and shake it about.
To bake a Henn to be eaten hot.
PArboyl your Henn, then cut off the legs and wings as when she is carved; cut off the Merry thought, and through the breast bone, so also the carkass, that she may be handsome to lye in the Pie; break the bones, season her with a little pepper and salt, Cloves and Mace; then put her into your pye, with some pieces of Lamb stones, sweet breads, and sassages, with a few oysters between, with hard eggs and a couple of onions cut in halves, so put on butter, and close up your pie: when it is baked, let your lear be a little Claret wine, strong broth, beaten up with the yolk of an egg, a grated Nutmeg, and drawn butter; pour it into your pye and shake it together.
How to bake a Henn another way.
CUt her to pieces, and let your seasoning be a little Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Mace, minced Time. (Nutmeg) and other sweet herbs; your Henn being thus in pieces, season it therewith: put in the yolks of three or four eggs, and mix them up all together, then season some thin slices of fat Bacon, with minced Sage and Pepper, so lay your meat in order into your pye, with a piece of Hen, and a slice of bacon, untill it be all in: put over it some savory forced meat about the bigness of a Walnut, with a little sliced Artichoke between; so sprinkle over your meat with a handful of stript Barberies, put butter in your pye, and close it up; and when its half baked, put in a ladle of Claret wine, and set it into the oven until it is enough; draw it and cut it up; if it be too thin, beat up the yolk of an egg with some of its own liquor; put thereon a ladleful of drawn butter, shake it together, and put on the lid again.
Another way to bake a Henn in a patty pan.
TAke a young Henn or two, and let them be almost boyled or roasted, then take all the flesh from the bones (but not very clean) and cut it all in slices, season it with some Time, Parslee, sweet Margerum, and an onion minced very small, with a little Cloves, Mace, and Nutmeg beaten; then having a sheet of fine past driven out for your patty pan, put your bones in the bottom, and your sliced meat on the top; put over butter, and close your patty with another sheet of past: then set on your pan, on a few embers, and some coals on the Lid, by supplying it with fresh coals at top and bottom, you may bake it as well as in an Oven; when it is baked, take about eight eggs and break them in a dish, and butter them on the fire; when they are thick, put to them some Claret wine, and strong broth; add to them a handful of parslee boyled green, and minced small, stir all together with a ladle of drawn butter; cast your patty into a dish, and cut up the lid; stir up all the meat from the bottom, that you may take out the bones; then put in your Lear of eggs (before provided) and mingle them all together, with your knife or spoon; then quarter your Lid, and cut it into eight parts, and put it round your patty; then stick up your bones in the middle of your meat, garnish it with quartered Oranges, and send it up.
To bake a Capon or Turky in a patty pan.
TAke a cold Capon or Turkie that have been roasted before, and slice it thin from the bones; (preserve your straight thighs and pinnions) take also three sweet breads, and as many Lamb stones, with two handfuls of Oysters cut in pieces as big as a Walnut, season your meat with Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg and Salt, with a little minced Time, sweet Margerum and Pennyroyal; your patty pan being covered with a sheet of past, lay in your bones in the bottom, strow in a minced onion; so lay your Capon or Turkie over the bones, and on the top of that your Lamb stones, sweet breads and oysters; and between all about [Page 141] two handfuls of Chesnuts blancht, strow it over with Pine apples and Pistaches, so put butter on the top, and close your patty, and when it is baked, put in a lear made with Claret wine, a little strong broth, gravie, drawn butter, two or three Anchovies dissolved, with a grated Nutmeg: if it be not thick enough, beat in the yolks of two eggs: Cast your patty forth into the dish, cut it up, pour in your Lear, and shake it together, Lay on slices of Lemmon, and cut the lid into eight parts, and set it up round the patty.
How to season and bake a pasty of Venison.
WHen you have ordered your side or hanch of Venison by taking out the bones and sinews, and the skin on the fat, season it with pepper and salt only, beat it with your rolling pin, and proportion it for your pasty, by taking away from one part, and adding to another; your paste being made with a peck of fine flower, and about four pound of butter, and a dozen eggs, work it up with cold water into as stiff a paste as you can; drive it forth for your pasty, let it be as thick as a mans thumb, roll it up upon a rolling pin, and put under it a couple of sheets of Cap-paper well flowred; then your white being already minced and beaten with water, proportion it upon your pasty, to the breadth and length of your Venison: so lay on your Venison on the said white, wash it round with your feathers, and put on a border: season your Venison at the top, and turn over your other leaf of paste, so close your pasty; then drive out another border for the garnishing the sides upto the top of the pasty; so close it up together with your rolling pin, by rolling it up and down by the sides and ends: and when you have flourisht your garnishing, and edgd you pasty, vent it at the top: and indore it with butter, set it into the oven, it will ask five or six hours baking, according as it may be; when its enough, draw it and put it on your pasty plate.
Another way to bake Venison, to be eaten hot.
RAise a Coffin of hot butter past, it may be four square; put in your Beef suit smally minced in the bottom of your Pye, and having your Venison cut, slasht, and proportioned for your Pye, season your Venison with some Pepper beaten small, with Cloves, Mace, Cinamon, Ginger and Nutmeg beaten, with a handful of Salt; put it into your Coffin, with some butter on the top of it, to make it smooth for your Lidd, and close it; this Pye must be of a good thickness; when it is baked, take it it forth, cut it up, and put in about a quart of Gallendine or Venison sawce, more or less, as you see fit: so shake it together; this Pye ought to have six hours baking, because it ought to be very tender.
To make a Battlely, or Bisk Pyes in the spring.
YOu may make your Coffin Round, or Castle fashion; you must take of these several sorts of meats, or Ingredients for your Pye, according to the bigness thereof: take four small Chickens, four Pigeons, a couple of young Rabbets, half a dozen Quails, two pair of Lamb stones, and as many sweet breads, three Pallets sliced, season them all with a little small pepper beat, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg Salt, and some minced Time: you must also have some Sassages ready, with some savoury forced meat, and a handful or two of parboyled Oysters, (unless it be after April: if in May shell fish will come in season,) first take your Rabbet being cut in pieces (and seasoned as aforesaid) and put it in the bottom of your pye, with some slices of Bacon; you may cut your Chickens and Pigeons in halves; lay on half a Chicken, then half a Lamb stone, then half a Pigeon, then a sweet bread; do so with your forced meat Balls, so your others, until they are equally disperst one amongst another: strow on your sliced pallets all on the top, with a handful of Oysters or Sherdoones, with the marrow of three marrow bones, wrapt up in the yolks of eggs, and a handful or two of blanched Chesnuts, with a few Pine apples and Pistaches; put in three or four halves of Onions, [Page 143] lay butter over all, and close your pye; when its enough (baked) draw it; let your Lear be White wine, dissolve therein three or four Anchovies beat up with the yolks of eggs, and strong broth, and drawn butter, cut up you pye, put it in, and shake it together, garnish it with your Sprigs of past dryed; Now if you were to make this bisk in harvest, then you must take in the stead of Spanish Potatoes, Skerrets, Chesnuts, Oysters, Sherdoons, with many such Ingredients, which we make use of in the Winter, and coming in of the Spring: In the room of them we have Artichokes, Sparragrass, Collyflowers, Cabbage, Lettice, and many other herbs (Ingredients) which the garden doth afford; As also certain wild fowl do come in, as Partridge, Quail, Rail, Puetts, &c. And in Autumn, inclining to Winter, you have all manner of wild fowl comes in the room of your Rabbets, Chickens, Pigeons, and such fowl as you had before; you must likewise then make use of all such Ingredients you left off withal in the beginning of the Spring; As to pickle Roots, Chesnuts, &c. so let Reason rule you to make use of those things, as the several times and seasons do produce, and you shall not err.
To make a Sherdoon Pye in the Spring.
THere is a thistle which hath a root like an Artichoke, and must be boyled, and ordered accordingly: when its boyled, you may season it with Cinamon, Ginger, and beaten Nutmeg; you must take the marrow of four Marrow bones, season them with Cinamon, Sugar, the yolks of three or four eggs, and grated bread. A thin coffin being ready, put in your Sherdoons, so wrap the marrow in the yolks of eggs, and put it into the pye, with a handful of dates, and lay on it some sliced Lemmon; large Mace, put your Butter on, so close it, set it in the Oven: when its enough, draw it, cut it up, and let your lear be Sack and drawn butter.
To make a Lumber Pye.
TAke a pound and half of Beef suit, and as much of a leg of Veal parboyled: mince it together, then take a few sweet herbs, as Time, Winter Savoury, sweet Margerum, and a good handful of Spinnage: mince all these together with a pippin or two, and two or three handfuls of grated bread, a little Rose water, and as many yolks of eggs, with the whites of two, as will make it into a tender moist forced meat: add to it a pound of Currans, season it with Nutmeg, Ginger, Cloves, Mace, and Salt: then having your Coffin made, put it in, all about it equally, then having the marrow of two or three Marrowbones seasoned with Cinamon, grated bread, and yolks of eggs, lay it on your forced meat; put on it sliced Orangado, dryed Citern, Ringo Roots, candyed Ginger, preserved Barberries, and Dates, put also Sugar to your Lumber meat, lay on butter, and close it up: when its baked, let your lear be Verjuice and Sugar beaten up in two yolks of eggs: open your pye, put it in, and shake it: scrape on Sugar and serve it.
To make a dish of Chewits.
TAke a Neats tongue thats tenderly boyled, else parboyled Veal, mince it, put to it as much Beef suit, two or three Pippins, about a dozon dates, an Orangado-pil, let them be all finely minced and mingled together, season it with Cinamon, Ginger, Nutmeg, Cloves, Mace, Carraway seeds, salt, and a little Rose-water and Sack, and having your Coffins ready made, with a high one in the middle, and half a dozen hearts and diamonds round about, mingle your meat wich a pound or two of Currans, or as many as you shall think to be enough, according to the quantity of your meat: Fill your pyes, and close them, they will ask about an hours baking: when they are baked, scrape on sugar, and send them up: you may make good minced pyes after the same manner, with good cleanly tripe, adding Raisons of the Sun to your ordinary minced pies.
To make an Ox cheek Pye.
TAke a young Ox cheek, and boyl him pretty tender; and when he is cold, slice him out from the bones like a hash, put to it a handful of minced sweet herbs, and an Onion with them, season it with a little small Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Mace and Nutmeg; put it into your Coffin, with a few Pallets sliced and seasoned, and some balls of savory forced meat, put in two or three whole Onions, with butter, and close it up; when it is baked, put in a lear of Claret wine, Vinegar, and a little Sugar, beaten up with the yolks of two eggs.
To make a Calves head Pye.
YOu must cleave your Calves head, wash the cheeks very well; and when its almost boyled, and cold, take it from the bones; cut it in pieces about the bigness of a great Oyster, then take a pretty quantity of Time, sweet Margerum, Rosemary, Parslee: mince them all small together, and put it to your meat, with a little Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Mace and Nutmeg, season some slices of Bacon cut very thin, with Pepper and Sage, season also a handful of Oysters with the seasoning appertaining to the Calves-head, your Coffin being made, put in your meat, with the Bacon and Oysters all over it; slice on Lemmon, and put on a handful of Barberries, with butter over it, so close your Pye; make a lear with a little gravy, drawn with Claret wine, and beaten up thick with two yolks of eggs, and a little drawn butter: when it is baked, cut it up; and pour your lear all over: put on your lid and serve it up.
To make a Neats Tongue Pye, to be eaten hot.
TAke a couple of Neats Tongues, and almost boyl them, then blanch them, and cut out the meat at the butt ends, as far as you can, not breaking it out of the sides; put a little suit to the said meat you cut out, a few sweet herbs, and Parslee, minced altogether very small, season it with a little Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Mace, Ginger, and a handful of grated bread, a little Sugar, and the yolks of three or four eggs; mould it up into a body, season your tongues in the inside, and outside, with your seasoning aforesaid, and wash them within with the yolk of an egg, and force them, where you cut forth the meat, and make small forced meat balls of the Residue: then having your Coffin made in the form of a Neats tongue Pye, lay them in, with the balls round them: put on Dates and sliced Lemmon, with butter on the top, close it up: when its baked put in a lear of a thin Gallendine or Venison sawce, shake it together and send it up.
To make a Chicken Pye for the Winter.
TAke half a dozen, or eight small Chickens: when they are scalded, drawn, and truss for baking, season them with Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, Cinamon, and Salt; wrap up part of the seasoning in butter, and put it in their bellies: your Coffin being made, lay them in, put over and between them, some pieces of marrow, quartered Dates, pieces of Spanish Potatoes boyled, with a sliced Lemmon, and half a handful of Barberries stript, so put on butter, and close up your pye; let your lear be made with White wine, Sugar, a grated Nutmeg, and beaten up with the yolk of an egg, and a little drawn butter; when your pye is ready, cut it up, and pour it over; sha [...]e your pye well together, and cover it, you may put Suckets and Chesnu [...] [...] [...]ase.
Another way.
WHen you have trus [...], and seasoned your Chickens with Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Mace and Nutmeg beaten, mince a good handfull of Parslee, a little Time, and wrap it up in a piece of butter, with some of the aforesaid seasoning, and stuff the bellies of your Chickens; so lay them into your Coffin prepared for them, strow over them some Lemmons cut like dice, and half a handful of grapes, with some pieces of boyled Artichokes, and hard Cabage of Lettice, so put butter on it, and close it up; when it is ready, put in a lear of White wine and gravie, beaten up thick with a little drawn butter, and the yolk of an egg, and a grated Nutmeg, shake it together, and serve it up.
Another way.
YOur Chickens being seasoned as aforesaid, you may if you please cut them in halves or quarters, and put them in your Coffin; so may your pye be the larger, and the lower when its baked (plain) take a little Verjuice, White wine, and a handful of parslee boyled green and minced, with a bunch or two of Sparragrass boyled, and cut in pieces an inch long: when your Lear boyls, put this all in together with some sliced Artichoke, grated Nutmeg, a little Sugar, and drawn butter; beaten up thick with the yolk of an egg▪ when your pye is ready, pour your lear all over your Chickens, and shake it together, thus you may bake Rabbets.
To make a Calves foot Pye.
YOu must boyl and blanch your Calves feet, and when they are cold, mince them with half the quantity of beef suit, with a handful of good sweet herbs, Parslee and Spinnage minced, put to them a good quantity of Currans, some Cloves, Mace, Cinamon, Ginger, Nutmeg, Sugar and Salt, with a little Rose water; your Coffin being ready, put in your minced meat, put over it Dates, sliced Lemmon, and a little Butter, close it, and bake it; when its enough, let your lear be Verjuice, Sugar, grated Nutmeg, beaten up with the yolk of an egg, with a little Rose water, put it into the pye through the funnel, and let it soak together in the oven until you serve it up.
To make an Olive Pye.
CUt thin collops off a peice of the butt end of a leg of Veal, as many as you Judge will fill your Coffin: hack them very thin with the back of your knife, season them with a little Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg and Ginger, wash over your Collops on the upper side with your feathers dipt in the yolks of eggs; then mince a good handful of all manner of sweet herbs, especially, Time and Parslee, with some Spinnage; mince likewise as much Beef suit very small, put to it a good handful of Currans, the yolks of about eight hard eggs minced, with a little Orangado, season all this together, (as you did the Collops) sprinkle it with Rose water, and put it on your Collops: so roll them up very hard with the forced meat within them, and lay them in your Coffin, strowing your forced meat that is left, all over it; then according to the season of the year you may put on Artichoke bottoms, hard Cabage Lettice, or Endive scalded, else Chesnuts or Dates: put butter on your pye, close it, and bake it: let your lear be White wine, Verjuice and Sugar beaten up with the yolk of an egg, and drawn butter, put it in at the funnel when your pye is enough, and let it stand in the oven untill you send it up.
To make an Artichoke Pie.
BOyl the bottoms of about eight or ten Artichokes, scrape them, and make them clean from the core; season them with Cinamon, Sugar, Nutmeg, Salt, with a little small Pepper; take the Marrow of four Ox-bones, seasoned with the like seasoning, (except Pepper) lay your Artichokes in the Coffin prepared, then lay your Marrow all over them, being wrapt up in the yolk of an egg, and grated bread, that it may not melt; you may also boyl the stalks of your Artichokes (near the bottoms) and season the pith thereof, as aforesaid, cutting them about three inches long, and put them in with your Marrow, and put amongst it quartered Dates, sliced Lemmon, and large Mace, so put on Butter and close your Pie; let your lear be White-wine, and Sack, with a little Sugar, beaten up with the yolk of an egg and drawn Butter; when it is enough, put it in at the funnel, shake it together, scrape on Sugar, and garnish it, and send it up.
To make a Skerret Pie.
BOyl your biggest Skerrets, blanch them, season them with Cinamon, beaten Nutmeg, Ginger and Sugar; your Coffin being ready, lay in your Skerrets; season also the Marrow of three or four bones, with Cinamon, Sugar, a little grated bread, with the yolks of three or four raw eggs, put on your Marrow, with the yolks of eight hard eggs cut in halves, a handful of blanched Chesnuts, and a few quartered Dates; lay Butter over your Pie, and close it; let your lear be Butter, Vinegar, and Sugar, with a little Sack, and the yolk of an egg; when your Pie is baked, put it in, shake it together, so scrape on Sugar, and garnish it.
To make a Pota [...] Pie.
BOyl your Spanish Potatoes (not overmuch) cut them forth in slices as thick as your thumb, season them with Nutmeg, Cinamon, Ginger, and Sugar; your Coffin being ready, put them in, ove [...] the bottom; add to them the Marrow of about three Marrow-bones, seasoned as aforesaid, a handful of stoned Raisons of the Sun, some quartered Dates, Orangado, Cittern, with Ringo-roots sliced, put butter over it, and bake them: let their lear be a little Vinegar, Sack and Sugar, beaten up with the yolk of an Egg, and a little drawn Butter; when your Pie is enough, pour it in, shake it together, scrape on Sugar, garnish it, and serve it up.
To make Marrow Pasties to fry.
TAke the Marrow of four bones, throw it into a Bason of water, and let it drain in a Cullender; let the pieces be as big as the top of your thumb, put them into a deep dish, with the rest of your small Marrow: mince a little Orangado, Cittern and Dates exceeding small: take two handfuls of grated bread, and put it all into the dish to your Marrow, with about a spoonful or more of Sugar: season it with a good quantity of beaten Cinamon, Salt, a grated Nutmeg, and a little Ginger, with a little Sack and Rose-water; break to it the yolks of half a dozen eggs, so mix it altogether; if it be too thin, put it on the coals, keeping it stirring with a spoon, that the eggs may congeal it together, take it off the coals; your Paste must be made with fine flower, cold butter, and yolks of eggs: make it very rich, then drive out thin sheets, put them on papers, and lay on your Marrow in pieces, that your Pastie may be four or five inches long, and three or four inches broad; then lay on of your grated bread and your other ingredients over all your Marrow, to congeal it together; wash it in the closing with yolks of eggs, turn over your sheet, and close him as you do a Pastie, Jagging of him round with your Jagging-iron, so do by the rest: mingling [Page 151] your Marrow, eggs and bread proportionably together; your pan being ready, full of Clarified stuff, when it is hot prick your Pasties, and put them into your pan, holding it high from the fire, because they are apt to burn; they ought to boyl at the top, as well as at the bottom, and to be turned two or three times in the frying; when they are enough, take them up with your slice, and place them on your plate (six or eight will make a fair dish) scrape on Sugar and serve them up. After this way you may do it with slices of Artichokes cut thin, in the bottom, under your Marrow, and at the top likewise: the same may be done with Potatoes in the Winter.
To make egg Pies.
YOu must make your Paste pretty rich with the yolks of eggs, your butter must be melted, and well mixed with your flower and eggs; your water to bring it into a Paste must be hot, but not boyling hot, so make it up into a pretty stiff Paste; you must drive it out into borders, and cut your sets even at the bottom, and jagg it in the edges, then set it round on a bottom, that it may contain in the inside the bigness of a Goose egg, and about the height of four inches; about a dozen or sixteen will make a handsom dish; Jagg them round at the foot, when they are set to the bottom, then take the yolks of about twenty eggs boyled hard and minced very small, with a little Orangado, Cittern and Dates likewise minced, put it into a dish, with the yolks of about six eggs, and the whites of three, beat it all together with half a pinte of Cream, and let there be another pinte heating on the fire, and when it is almost scalding hot, beat it in by little and little into the afore-mentioned Composition; if it thickens too much, add more Cream, season it with Rose-water, Sugar, Cinamon, Nutmeg and a little Salt; put a little Marrow into all your Pies, and set them in the Oven, so fill them with a little ladle; let your stuff be so thin, that it may run like a Pancake-batter; they will ask about a quarter of an hours baking; when you dish them, stick them with Cittern, and strow them over with small Biskets, scrape on Sugar and send them up. Note, that the Coffins [Page 152] must be dryed a little in the Oven before they are filled.
To make a Trotter Pie, and Taffatie-Tarts.
YOu must make a Coffin with hot buttered Paste, about the heighth of the Crown of a hat, and as small in circumference, fill it with sliced Pippins, close it without Sugar; if you mistrust it will fall, pin a paper about it, and put it in the Oven a baking; you must roll out sheets for your Taffatie-Tarts, with such Paste as you had for your Marrow Pasties; it must be exceeding thin, and four square; your Apples may be cut throughout your Pippin, as thin as you can cut them, paper your sheets of Paste, and lay on your Apples in one end, only leave a place to close; lay on the slices of your Apples in the form of a little square Trencher in length, but not in breadth by two inches; strow on a little Orangado, or minced Orange-pill, between every laying of Apples, build them up about four stories high, after the same manner: lay on the top thin slices of Orangado and Cittern; cover them flat over with powdered Sugar, and wet them with your wetting-brush round in the closing; then turn over your sheet of Paste, as you do a Pastie, and close them firmly; jagg them squarely off at the ends and sides, as many as you make; prick and indore them with Butter, so bake them in a moderate oven; when they are almost baked, you may take them out, and ice them if you please; when your Pie is enough, take him forth, put him on a plate, and cut up the lid, put in Butter, Rose-water and Sugar; when he is dished, put round about him your Taffatie-Tarts, then hang three Esses of Paste on your Pie, and put on them a cut garnish; you may garnish your Tarts with dryed Cittern, Orangado, or what other preserves you please; scrape on Sugar, and send them up.
To make an Orangado Pie.
YOu must make a handsom thin Coffin, with hot buttered Paste, then slice your Orangado and put over the bottom thereof; quarter some Pippins and cut them in halves, so that it may be cut in eight parts, and lay them over your Orangado; then put on more Orangado on the top of them, and pour on them some sirrup of Orangado, and Sugar on the top, so close your Pie; when it is baked, scrape on Sugar, and serve it up.
Another way.
YOu may make your Paste with fine flower, and a few yolks of eggs, and a little Milk ready to boyl; work up your flower and eggs together, and bring it afterwards into a stiff Paste with your Milk; roll it out in sheets, and cut out your Patterns four square, let them be about twelve inches long, and six inches high, roul them thin by degrees from the foundation upwards, and cut Battlements on the top; then with your irons, or pen-kinif, you may carve them in what garnish, form or fashion you please; but in all the Tower, from the foundation, &c. you must carve it; then bring up your pattern to a circumference, close it together, and set it on a bottom, so it will be like a Tower; you may make as many as you will in the form thereof, with an high one in the middle, that it may be after the likeness of a Castle; then dry them in an Oven, put them on a dishing-plate; you may put what suckets and sweet meats you will within, but hang and garnish it in every one of your cuts and holes, and on all your Battlements, with Orangado cut in pieces, so garnish your dish with sweet meats and suckets.
A hot baked meat of compounds.
TAke part of a leg of Lamb, and cut it into thin slices, make forced meat of the other part of it; then take two or three Chickens, and as many Pigeons, cut them in pieces, also take Quails, Larks, or other small fowl; season it all severally by it self, with a little Pepper small beaten, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, and Salt; take likewise a handful of sweet herbs and Parslee, a little Beef-suet, and a handful of Currans, mince all these finely together, with a handful of grated bread; season them as the meat, aforesaid, and knead them up with a little Butter into a ball; your aforesaid collops being opened, spread it on them, and roul them up into little Collers; you may make a Pie in the fashion of a Battalia, or a round Pie very large, but not high, then distribute all your Lamb in the bottom of your Pie, with your pieces of Chickens and Pigeons betwixt your Collops, and lay over that your Larks and Quails, &c. with your forced meat balls as big as a Walnut, between your fowl, as also the bottoms of Artichokes boyled, Sparragrass Lettice or Grapes, in the Summer season; otherwise, Chesnuts, Dates, Skerrets, Potatoes, Pine-Apples, Pistaches; season some thin slices of Bacon with Pepper, Nutmeg, Time, and a little Sage, and put it all over your Pie in the vacant places; also some Lamb-stones, sweet-breads, Marrow, and the yolks of hard eggs; you may take but a few of all these ingredients, lest your Pie be very big: put Butter on your Pie, close him and bake him; for your Lear, dissolve two or three Anchovies in White-wine, a little strong Broth and Gravie, with a grated Nutmeg, and a little drawn Butter beaten up, with the yolks of two eggs; when your Pie is baked, put in your Lear and shake it together; if you please, you may put Oysters in it; this is a bastard Bisk Pie▪
To make a Pigeon Pie.
TRuss your Pigeons to bake, and set them, and lard the one half of them with Bacon, mince a few sweet herbs and Parslee, with a little Beef-suet, the yolks of hard eggs, and an Onion or two; season it with Salt, beaten Pepper, Cloves, Mace, and Nutmeg, work it up with a piece of Butter, and stuff the bellies of your Pigeons, season them with some Salt, small Pepper, a little Cloves, Mace, and beaten Nutmeg, take also about four sweet-breads, as many Lamb-stones, seasoned as aforesaid, with a few slices of Bacon, (but omit Salt in your Bacon) you may make a round Coffin, and put in your Pigeons, and your Lamb-stones, sweet-breads and Bacon, between and about them, you may put in also Artichoke bottoms, or what other dry ingredients of that nature, because your Pie is of a luscious fat; put Butter in your Pie, and close it up; you may put in a little White-wine, beaten up with the yolk of an egg when it comes out of the Oven, for your Lear.
Another way.
WHen they are trussed, season them with Salt, a little small Pepper and Nutmeg; put in their giblets, with some Butter, so close up your Pie and bake it; then take a good handful of Parslee boyled up quick and green, a handful of set Goosberries and Grapes, half a handful of boyled Barberries, two or three bottoms of boyled Artichokes sliced; let your Parslee be minced small; put all these together into a Pipkin, with a quarter of a pinte of White-wine and strong Broth; put to it a ladleful or two of drawn Butter: when your Pie is baked, cut it up, and pour your Lear all over, shaking of it well together: in the Winter you may use Potatoes, or Skerrets in this Pie.
To make a Kid Pie.
TAke a Kid, and take out most of the bones, preserving the meat in form; what bones you take not out, break them, then set your Kid, and lard him with Bacon; beat him down, that he may lie as low as possible, with his back upwards in the Pie, then season him with a little Salt, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, Cinamon and minced Time, proportion a Coffin according to his form, and lay him in; in the Winter time take Spanish Potatoes half boyled, and sliced Dates, Raisons of the Sun stoned, and put all over him, with a few preserved Barberries, a little Orangado and Cittern, lay on some large Mace and Butter, and close it up; make your Lear of a quarter of a pinte of White-wine, as much Sack, boyled up with a little Cinamon, Nutmeg, grated bread, two or three spoonfuls of Verjuice, a little Sugar, with a ladleful or two of drawn Butter; when your Pie is baked and dished, cut it up, and pour on this Lear, shake it together, and serve it up.
Another way.
WHen you have trussed, boned, and larded him, as aforesaid, season him with Salt, small Pepper, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg and minced Time, put him into a Coffin, and lay Butter thereon, close him and bake him; then take a quart of set Oysters, dryed with a cloth, flowered and fryed brown: then put out the Butter they were fryed in, and put to them half a pinte of White-wine, half a pinte of their own liquor, an Onion minced exceeding small, with a little Time, a grated Nutmeg, and a handful of green Parslee, boyled and minced, with a few Barberries; when it boyls up together, beat it thick with the yolk of an egg, and a ladleful of drawn Butter, dish up your Pie, and cut it up; pour on your Lear, with your Oysters all over your Kid, so put on your lid and serve it up; this will serve towards, or in the Spring: the other sweet way in December, or when Kids are very young.
Two other wayes.
YOu may cut a quarter, or what you please out in steaks, and season it with sweet spice, as Cinamon, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, Ginger, adding a little Salt, and bake it with fruit or suckets, as Raisons, Currans, Dates, Orangado, Cittern, &c. your Lear must be Verjuice, White-wine Vinegar, Sugar, beaten up with two yolks of eggs.
If you would have it baked savoury, season it with Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, and mineed Time; let your Lear be a little strong Broth, White-wine, gravie, and drawn Butter, with a handful of Oysters minced; if you please, you may put in a handful of boyled Parslee minced also.
To make a Pastie of an old Goat.
TAke the hinde quarter of a fat Goat, bone and skin it, cut it with your knife four square, fit for a Pastie: beat it well with a Rolling-pin, season it with Pepper, Salt, minced Time, and Nutmeg, (let it look graywith Salt) then let it soak all night in its seasoning, with Red-wine, or Claret, then bake it as you do a Venison Pastie, with minced Beef suet: then break the bones all to pieces with a Cleaver, and put them into a Pipkin, with some other pieces of meat, and put to them a pinte of Claret-wine, and a little strong Broth, and cover your Pipkin close with a sheet of course Paste, and bake them in the Oven with your Pastie; when your Pastie is very tender, or enough, draw it and set it on a dish, and plate, and fill it with your liquor poured from your bones out of your Pipkin, and send it up: it will not be known from Venison, by the generality of men, either in taste or colour.
To make a Lamb-Pastie.
BOne your Lamb, skin it, and cut it forth four square in the manner of a Pastie: season it with Salt, Pepper beaten small, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, and minced Time: let your Paste be rich cold buttered Paste: lay your Lamb upon minced Beef-suet, and put on an high border about it, then turn over your sheet, close, finish and bake your Pastie; when it is baked and drawn, put in a Lear of White-wine, Sugar, Vinegar, beaten up with the yolks of two or three eggs; if you would have it savoury and not sweet, add the more spice in the seasoning, and let your Lear be only gravie, or the baking of bones, and some meat, in Claret wine, as before: this you may observe in all other baked meats, betwixt the Lears of sweet and savoury.
To bake a Fawn, or young Roe.
YOu must bone him, set and lard him with Bacon, season him with a little small Pepper, Salt, Cloves, Mace and Nutmeg: then you may make a Coffin according to the form of a Roe: or you may set you border round about him, head and all being proportioned, and so close it on the top of the back, or where the ridge-bone of your Roe should be: else do it after your own fancy, (for that is not my work intended) when it is baked, cut it up, so as you may put in your Lear, and close it handsom again: let your Lear be Claret wine, grated bread, a good quantity of beaten Cinamon Vinegar and Sugar boyled up together: put in a ladleful of drawn Butter, and pour it all over your Fawn or Roe, and shake it together: let not your Lear be so thick that it will not run over your meat; if you would have it savoury, you must bake your bones with Claret-wine, and so fill it as before directed.
To make Pasties of Pies to fry.
YOu must order your Rice, and season it as aforesaid, then drive out thin sheets of cold Buttered Paste; and lay on a spoonful of Rice: It must not be so thin as to run it self, but put it all abroad square about four inches in breadth, and five inches in length: then having the Marrow of two bones, cut in pieces, about the bigness of a Nutmeg, seasoned with Cinamon and Nutmeg, mingled with the yolk or two of an egg: stick this on your Pastie all over your Rice, then lay on another spoonful of Rice all over your Marrow, wash it round about with the yolks of eggs, and close your Pastie, Jagg it cound: you may make a dozen or twenty in a dish, or what number you please; and fry them in a Kettle, or pan full of stuff, as you fry Fritters remember to prick them, and fry them very soberly, that the Marrow may be fryed through, yet not burned: stick them with Lozenges, or sprigs of Paste, scrape on Sugar, and serve them for second course.
BOOK XV.
Contains all manner of Tarts, and made dishes.
How to make a Bacon Tart.
YOU must take some fat clear Bacon that is not rusty, and scrape it with your knife, until you have the quantity of a pound or upwards, throw it into fair water: after its well soakt, drain it out, and put it in a stone morter, and beat it with a wooden pestle; then put to it some Orangado, and dryed Cittern sliced; put to it some Rose water, two handfuls of grated bread, eight eggs, casting away four whites; a pint and half of cream; season it with Sugar, Cinamon, Ginger, Nutmeg, and a little Salt; beat it all together well, and when your coffin, or coffins are made, and a little dryed in an oven, you may put it in and bake it, and serve it up, with a cut, and Wafers on it.
To make an Almond Tart.
TAke about one pound of sweet Almonds, being blancht, and watred for a while, beat them in a stone Morter, with a little Rose water; and when they are well beaten, beat them in again with a little cream, and put on about a quart of cream on the fire, and put them therein; keeping them stirring that it doth not burn to: let them boyl (with three or four sticks of Cinamon, large Mace, and a grain of musk tyed with a thred) until it grows thick, then take it off the fire, and beat in the yolks of about six eggs, with the whites of three; so season it with Sugar, a little Orangado sliced, and Cittern; your coffin or dish being ready, put it in, and bake it.
To make a Pine apple Tart.
BEat two handfuls of Pine Apples, with a pickled Quince with the palp of two or three Peppins, when they are well beaten, put to them half a pint of cream, a little Rose water, the yolks of half a dozen eggs, with a handfull of Sugar, if it be thick you may add a little more cream to it: so having your thin low coffins for it dryed, fill them up: and bake them: you may garnish them with Orangado, or Lossenges: of Sugar paste, or what else you please.
Another Tart of Pistaches.
YOu must beat your Pistaches Kernels (about the quantity of two handfuls) in a morter, with the quarters of about four Pear-mains, adding to them a preserved Quince, preserving all the Cock treads of your eggs, and eight yolks, with almost a pint of cream, mingle it altogether well in a morter, with Sugar and Rose water perfumed with Amber-grease, and Musk, remember that your quarters of Pear-mains, were first boyled, before mixt with the rest of your Ingredients: it must be filled into thin shallow coffins, about two Inches high, you may either fry or bake them, otherwise you may bake them open: your coffins being dryed, you may stick them over with sliced Pistaches, so scrape on Sugar.
To make a Spring Tart.
YOu may gather the leaves of Primroses, Violets, Strawberries, with a little young Spinnage, or all other buds that are not bitter, boyl them in a little milk, then put them forth into a Cullender, and preserve your milk for another use: chop your herbs very small, and boyl them up again in cream: take as many yolks of eggs, with two or three whites, as will make your cream into a thick body, after it is off the fire: if it be not thick enough with your herbs: put in a handfull of grated Naple Bisket, colour it all green with the juice of Spinnage, season it with [Page 162] Sugar, Rose water, Cinamon, Nutmeg, and a little Salt: you may bake it in a dish, on a sheet of paste cros-barred over, with puff paste, so garnish it with Lossenges.
To make a Cowslip Tart.
YOu must take the blossoms, of at least a Gallon of Cowslips, mince them exceeding small, and beat them in a morter, put to them a handful or two of grated Naple Bisket, about a pint and half of cream, so put them into a skillet, and let them boyl a little on the fire, take them off, and beat in eight eggs with a little cream, if it doth not thicken, lay it on the fire gently untill it doth, but take heed it curdles not, season it with sugar, Rosewater, and a little salt; you may bake it in a dish, or little open Tarts, but your best way is to let your cream be cold before you stir in your eggs.
To make a Cheese Tart.
TAke about three quarters of a pound of old Cheese of Parmyzant, and grate it: put it into a stone morter: with about a dozen eggs: casting away six of the Whites: put therein half a pound of sweet butter melted, with some Ginger, Cinamon, grated Nutmeg, and Salt: with a penny Manchet grated: season it with Sugar, and Rose water: then beat into it so much Cream, that it may be as thin or thinner, then batter for Fretters, you may make it in a dish on a sheet of paste, otherwise you may dry your Coffins and put it in with your Ladle: and put over it cross bars of puff paste, so bake it, and garnish it.
To make a Prewen Tart.
STew a pound and a half of Prewens, in as much Claret wine as will cover them, and when they are tenderly done, strain them through a bolter or thin strayner, rub them all to pieces with your hands, and pour in some of the liquor they were stewed in to wash the Prewens from the stones; so that which remains in the bolter, or strayner, shall be nothing but the skin or stone thereof; set your dish with the palp of the Prewens, on a Chaffin dish of coals, with a little whole Cinamon, Large Mace, with a little Orangado and Cittern minced season it with Sugar, Rose water, beaten Cinamon and Ginger, let it boyl up untill it be thick together: then take out your whole spice; you must make your Coffin about an inch and half high. And set it in corners, in what form you please, either in six, eight, or twelve; when its dryed in an Oven put in your Tart stuff, plaining it all over with a spoon, put it into the Oven, and let it stand a little; when you take it forth, stick it with Sugar, Lossenges, and strow it over with small Bisket red and white, scrape on Sugar.
To make Cheese Cakes.
PUt Runnet to three Gallons of Milk, that it may be a tender Curd; run it through a thin strayner, when its come and gathered, scruise, or press out the Whey, as well as you can possible, put it into a deep dish, or bason, put to it about a pound of sweet butter melted, a matter of fourteen eggs, casting away half the whites, season it with beaten Cinamon, Ginger, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg, Sugar, sufficient to sweeten it, with a little salt; with Orangado, and Cittern minced, with Rose water, and a handfull of grated bread or Naple Bisket, mix it all well together, if it be to stiff, add a little sweet Cream, let it not be too thin to beat down the sides of your Cakes; then make your paste with the yolks of eggs, melted butter, and warm milk with a handful of fine powdred Sugar; roll out your paste very thin, and jagg out your patterns, by a large round Trencher; and paper them; then put on your seasoned [Page 164] Curds by spoonfulls; and turn up the sides on it in four six or eight Corners, bake them in a quick oven but not too hot, they will ask but a quarter of an hours time baking; you may bake them on sheets of paste in a pattee pans, else in set Coffins.
To make a dish of Puffs.
TAke Cheese Curds, as before, to the value of three pints, mix with them a good handfull of floure dryed in an Oven, put to them six eggs casting by the whites of four, with about a quarter of a pound of butter in little bits, season them with Cinamon, Ginger, and a little Salt; mix them together with your hand very well; then take white paper buttered over, so lay on your curd by spoonfuls; bake them in an oven, as before; when they are enough, take them off the papers, put them into a dish; and wash over their upperside with butter, scrape Sugar upon them, and set them into the oven again; and when they are well dryed, put into them Rose water, drawn butter and Sugar; so toss them up together, then dish them up, and put to them the said lear; and scrape Sugar over your dish; you may also make them green; another way; throw a handfull of spinnage into boyling water, that it may be very green, take it up, and wring the water clean out of it, mince it exceeding small; and put it to your curd, seasoned as aforesaid, so bake them and serve them up as before.
To bake a set Custard.
YOu may make your Custard paste of fine floure, and put in the yolks of a few eggs; but let them be well mingled; then make up your paste (with milk almost ready to boyl) let it be very stiff; and mould it very well; then drive forth your pattern; let your border be very thin, raised about three inches high, and when it is footed round cut off your border; (if you make a great custard you may raise two large borders) drive out your bottom very thin; and when it is papered, form your custard upon it, in the best fashion you can; then wet it round with [Page 165] a feather, between the bottom and foot, and set it; jagg off the Paste round by the foot, and prick your Custard in the bottom; then take a pottle of Cream, and let it heat on the fire; beat a dozen of eggs with a little Cream, and strain it through a strainer, to take forth all the Cocktreads; then beat it into your Cream, being blood-warm; you may put Raisins, Dates and Currans in the bottoms of your Custards, and put them into the Oven to dry; then season your stuff with Sugar and Rose-water, and stir it together on the fire, but let it not be but little more then blood-warm; stir it together, and fill your Custard with your ladle: with this stuff you may make Dowcets; this is only to teach them which are ignorant, for every Cook is expert in this, and commonly make their Paste with boyling water and florue: take heed your Oven be not too hot.
To make Tarts of the Jelly of Pippins.
FOr making of your Jelly of Pippins, you must take of your fairest Apples, pared, quartered, and cored, for every pound of them, take three quarters of a pound of fine Sugar, put them into a stew-pan, and almost cover them with clear Spring-water, put to them three or four sticks of Cinamon, cover your pan very close with a lid, set them upon Charcoals, and let them boyl up softly, until they come to a colour; see that your fire be not too fierce, and stir them sometimes that they do not burn; when they are enough, they will look as red as Rubie, and clear as Crystal; then take them off the fire, and put them in a dish; when they are cold, you may fill them into Coffins dryed, like Hearts or Diamonds: and stick them with Orangado and Cittern, and serve them up as a dish, or garnish other rich Tarts or Baked meats with them: you may also put them on thin sheets of rich Paste, and make them little in the manner of Taffatie-Tarts.
To make a Goosberry Tart green, and clear as Crystal.
MAke the Coffins of your Tarts, and put powdered Sugar all over the bottom; then take your fair round Goosberries, and fill your Coffins with them, laying them in one by one: put Sugar on the top of them, so lay on another laying, then cover them with Sugar: let your lids be carved at the top, so close your Tarts, and give them a quick baking; so will they be green and clear: In the same manner must you bake Codlins, after you have made them green, by adding to them good store of Sugar, and cutting the lid on the top: By a contrary way, must you bake Cherries, or whatsoever you will have red, as Currans, Raspberries, Strawberries, Pippins or Quinces, &c. you must allow to them Sugar sufficient, as before, but bake them close without cutting the lids, and let them bake soberly, giving them soaking enough, and they will be red.
To make Puff Paste.
TAke a pottle of floure, and the whites of six eggs, make it up into a Paste, with cold water, let it not be very stiff: when it is well wrought, roll it forth four square into a sheet, as thick as your finger, then take three pound of Butter, and beat it well with a rolling-pin; then lay it on in slices, all over your Paste, about as thick as your finger, and strow a little floure all over; then roll up your sheet of Paste like a Coller, with the Butter within, scruise and close it at both ends with your rolling-pin; also scruise it all along the roll of Paste, and roll it broad and long wayes, then clap up both ends, and make them meet in the middle, one over another, and fasten it down again with your rolling pin, rolling it forth every way, as thin as it was at the first, when you laid on the butter; then floure your board well underneath, and spread it over with butter, roll it up, and work it, as before: thus do three or four times, until your three pound of Butter be gone: in the Summer you must make this Paste in the morning, with the stiffest Butter you can get, and lay it [Page 167] in a cold place, until you make use thereof: in the Winter time you must beat your Butter very well, otherwise it will be harder then your Paste, and break holes through it.
To make a laid Tart for preserves.
TAke a sheet of puff-paste, being rolled forth, about an inch thick, and as broad as a large pie plate (or as you please) put it on a large sheet of white paper, and carve it with your pen-knife, in what form or fashion you please, either like four flowerdeluces, or in the fashion of a tree with limbs and branches; then take it on your pastie-peel, and put it in your Oven, not too hot nor too cold, when it is baked, take it forth, and wash it over with a little Butter; scrape on Sugar, and let it drie a little longer in the Oven, dish it upon a dishing plate, and place on your preserves all over the limbs or branches of your Tart, and your suckets and dryed sweet-meats.
To make a Warden or Pear-Pie.
FIrst bake your Wardens, or Pears in an Oven, with a little water and a good quantity of Sugar, let your pot be close covered with a piece of dough: let them not be fully baked by a quarter of an hour; when they are cold, make an high Coffin, and put them in whole, adding to them some Cloves, whole Cinamon, Sugar, with some of the liquor they were baked in, so close it and bake it.
To bake a Quince Pie.
CUt your Quinces from the core, and fill your pie, lay over it sliced Orangado, and pour into it the sirrup of Barberries, Mulberries, Orangado, and put on good store of Sugar, with two or three sticks of Cinamon, so close and prick it, but give it as little vent as you can; you may also bake them whole, after you have cored them with your coring-iron, and pared them very thin; when they are placed in your pie, fill the vacant place where your core was taken out, with the sirrup of Orangado; they ought to have as much Sugar to them as their weight, but not if you have store of sweet sirrup.
To make a Pie with whole Pippins.
YOu must pare and core your Pippins, and when your Coffin is made, take a handful of sliced Quinces, and strow over the bottom thereof; then place in your Pippins, and fill the core-holes with the sirrup of Quinces, and put into every one a piece of Orangado, so pour on the sirrup of Quinces over your Apples, with Sugar, and close it; these pies will ask good soaking, especially the Quince-pie.
A set Tart.
YOu may make your paste rich, put in good store of yolks of eggs, and warm milk, but not too much Butter, and drive out a sheet of paste very thin, let your borders also be driven out in lengths (thin) but so as they will stand; cut out your borders through your sheet an inch and half high; Jagging out one length with your Jagging-iron, and another with your knife; then take the center of your bottom, and set up a tower of about three or four inches high, then set your proportions round about, some Hearts and some Diamonds, so set the outward circumference in what form or figure you please: when you have pricked and dryed it, you may fill it with your sweet meats, Jellies, Leaches, &c. as for example, pour in Chrystal Jelly into an Heart, and also into the opposite, Leach into another, and also into the opposite: so two of each sort one opposite to another, in all your figures.