THE TRAVELS AND VOYAGES OF John Mocquet, INTO Lybia, the Canaries, and BARBARY.
BOOK I.
ACcording to the desire I had, of a Long time, to Travel about the World, I had a mind to begin with Africa, having occasionally found a Ship bound for Lybia▪
[Page 2] I parted then from St. Malo the 9th Parting from St. Malo 16 [...]1. Encounter with a Ship. of October, 1601. and embarqued in the Ship called the Serene, Laden with Salt, and very well furnished with Victuals, and munition of War; we were 25. men in all, and having born to the S-West, and the wind being very favourable, we passed the Cape of St. Vincent, and being come up within view of the Canary Islands we met with a Ship and a Patache, whom we descried a far off, using their utmost to come up to us, the Patache came with a Light-wind to view us nearer, and to know who we were; but they were not so ill-advised as to come within the reach of our Cannon. At last after having viewed us well on all sides, and taking notice of the Port, and fashion of our Ship, they returned toward their Admiral, who was about 3 or 4. Leagues off us, telling him that our vessel was not so great as theirs; yet they did not know what sort of people we were, not having spoken with us. Their Admiral hearing this, sent them again with the Patache to watch us all night, with, a Lanthorn [Page 3] upon the Mast, coasting us continually a good way off. But we, seeing our selves so close pursued by these Pirate Ships, broke our boat to make plat-forms, so that we might change our Cannon from one side to the other; then having fitted our Net-deck, and made ready our Musquets, with our Cannons and Patterero's, and hoisted our Sails, with provision of wine upon the Deck, for the Sea-men to drink, to make them the more Couragious; we were resolved all to die, rather than suffer our selves to be taken by these Corsairs. Thus having been round about us for two days and two nights, at last their Admiral arriving with all his top- [...]ails, full [...]ail, he commanded us to vield; but we being deaf to that, and ready to let fly our whole broadside; he cried out aloud that we should not fire if we were wise, and that if we were a French Ship he would do us no harm, and that we should only put out our boat; we made answer that our boat was broke, and he might put out his if he would; upon which he was a long [Page 4] time disputing the matter: But at last seeing us so resolute, and so well cover'd with our net-deck, he put out his Boat, and came aboard us, and seeing nothing but Salt in our ship, he returned again without doing us any harm for so smal a matter, besides seeing us so resolved to defend our selves to the last man, and that there was nothing to be gotten but blows, he left us. From thence we pursued our course: But upon our return, meeting with us again, he beat us soundly, and did us a great deal of damage, having three or four ships to our one.
The 6th of November we perceived Another E [...]cou [...]te [...]. a Ship, and a Pa [...]ac [...] [...]id behind [...]-bla [...], making ful [...]ail towards us: But we, seeing ourselves so near being surprised about four or five a clock in the afternoon, we Tack'd from him that we might have time to prepare our selves: But befo [...] [...] could run out our Cannon [...] our Net-deck, they came up [...] ▪ and commanded us to [...], o [...] they would sink us; upon which [...] Captain (not at all affrighted [Page 5] at these threatnings) commanded the Cannoniers to do their duty, which they did, saluting them very near, and they in the mean time answering us very briskly: At last, having given us several broad-sides A Fi [...]ht. and Volies of small sh [...]r, which rained upon us like [...]ail, the night came on, and the Moon s [...]in'd a little. In the mean time we had several of our men wounded, but none mortally: The enemy had battered us, thinking to have taken us, but he was as soon repulsed as come; he seeing that, made on the other side, thinking our Cannon had been changed; but he was deceived; For we had there three Cannons ready, with Paterrero's full of sto [...], [...] [...]ails, besides bullets. Coming then close one upon the other, we let fly these three Cannons, and Patereros, directly upon his Fore-castle, where there were near Eighty m [...]n [...] leap into our Ship; They see [...] themselves cover'd all over wi [...] [...]ire, by so many [...], we discharged upon them, and many [...] [Page 6] their men lay along upon the Deck, they sell to crying out, God the Lord my God, in En [...]l [...]sh, then runing back, they fir'd a great shot which pierced our ship through and through, and broke the leg of a mariner, who in hast was running to the pump, because they cryed out that we were sinking, for we had already almost six foot ▪ water in the hold by a shot receiv'd in the beginning of the fight: our Carpenter was very nimble in stopping it. Hereupon these Pirates presently bore away, and we saw them no more. I belie [...]e they had [...] a great many of their men, otherways they would never [...] left us, they were so animated against us, and having sworn to ca [...] us all into the Sea. They mu [...] needs have had great want o [...] [...] ▪ that being all they demanded [...]. Having then escaped this great danger, our next business was t [...] [...]it up our Rigging▪ [...]ut almost to pieces, and our Sa [...] [...]orn on every side; Our Ma [...]s [Page 7] also were ready to tumble down, they were so battered with great shot. All that we could do was to recover Cape-blane, where we found Cape-blane. seven Ships Laden with Liquor, who seeing us Arrive near the Muscle, which is a little Creek, or Bay, before the entrance into the Haven, where we had cast Anchor.
The Seventh of November, about two a clock in the morning; two of these seven Ships, the greatest and the best armed, came and cast Anchor on each side of our ship, and the other five round about, beating their Drums, and sounding their Trumpets, which mightily disturbed us, at such time when we thought to have taken our rest: Then we began to deck our Canons, and Musquets, order our net-deck, and to hoist our sails: but they crying out to us to tell them from whence we were, we were a long time without giving them any answer, not knowing what [...] p [...] ple they were, and were jus [...] [...] [...]o tell them that we were Sp [...]ards▪ But at last the Master, named H [...] mand Clement, cried out, that we were [Page 8] French, which they would not believe, commanding us to put out our boat; But it was broke, as I have said before; so we answered that they might put out theirs, which they a long time refusing, threatned to fire at us on all sides: At last they resolved to come on board our Ship with their Arms, to know who we were, which having done, after they had known us, they sent their boat again on board their Ships, saluting us with several Cannons,
The next morning we entred into the Haven, where we sound three Lybian-Moors on shore, who had run Moors of Lybia. away from the people of these seven Ships, they not being able to catch them again in these deserts. These three Moors came freely enough on board our Ship, knowing again our Captain▪ who had formerly travelled into these parts: They told us that there was a Portugal Pinnace hard by Cape-veille, on the other side Cape-blane; upon which our Captain [...]pe▪veille was resolved to find them out by Land, which he did with a great [Page 9] deal of trouble; for in his return he was well scorched▪ and tau [...]d with the Sun, in passing these deser [...]. He caused this Pinnace to come, and ca [...] Anchor in the Moule of the Cape hard by us.
In the mean time I had a mind to go on shore to get some Ostrich eggs, by the means of the King of Baze-Alforme, which is a place hard Baze-Alforme. by where we were. But walking about these sandy-deserts I was in danger to have been taken, and carried away captive by these Moors, who were holding Counsel thereupon, but escap'd the danger by casting [...]. my self into the Sea, and got into a boat that was coming towards Land: These Barbarians seeing this, sell presently together by the ears, and the King Baze endeavoured to appease them: And th [...] ▪ I escaped from these People, who without doubt had carried me away, and sold me at some pl [...] [...]ar distant from thence.
All this County of [...] Thirty or Forty Leagues off Ca [...]-blane, is nothing but Sands and [...] [Page 10] serts: and those of the Country are forced to seek for water a far off, which they carry in Goat-skins upon Camels; they get this water at the Fort of Arguin, which is abou [...] Arguin-Fort. Seven or Eight Leagues from Cape-blane, and is scituated in a little Island where there is some Portuga [...] Souldiers, and a Captain. The [...] are great friends to the Moors of the Country, who are not quite black, but tauny, yet there is some amongst them black, and are all Mahometans. They Traffick in Ostrich-feathers, and Fish, which they call Hallebranches.
As for the rest, the Ostriches (which are there in abundance,) Lay their eggs in the sand, and there they bury them; so that it is a very hard matter to find them out, but when the wind blows, they are discovered. These eggs are very good to eat, and the Blacks live upon them for the most part.
Now about Five or Six days after, there Arrived a French-Pirate, who would have entred into the Haven, but we would not suffer him; He [Page 11] desired of us to let him take this Portugal-Pinnace; but because she was under our Protection, we defended her.
Seven, or Eight days after, Arrived Spanish-Ships. Five Spanish-Ships belonging to the Duke of Adelantade, which made us to bestir our selves a little, and to stand upon our Guard, and to hinder them from entring into the Haven, sending out the boat of the Portugal Pinnace to know who they were, that, if they were friends, they might hang out their white Colours▪ and we would let them enter into the Haven; which they did, and put some of their men in the said boat to come on board us, to let us know that they would do us no displeasure: Being all Arrived, and Anchored in the sa [...]d Haven, we visited one another, after that each one returned on board his own Ship. Three days after, the Spaniards being Anchored round about us, at their case, they command us to depart out of the Haven, telling us that it was not [...]. permitted to the French to take any Fish there; the which we were forced [Page 12] to do, and took a Moor along with us to guide our Ship to Cape-veille. This Moor was called Hisse, one who very well knew this Coast, we not being far from the Fort of Arguin, where there were Portuguese, and B [...]acks. We found this place very good for Fish, and having staid there for some time, a Spaniard coming from the Fort of Arguin came towards us, desiring us to give him some Nails, and wood which they had occasion for, for their Ship, which was in the Cape from whence we were come. We gave him what he ask't; but this Traitor, came only to spy us, and to know what we were doing, and if we had our Lading, saying that they found no Fish in their Haven, and that they should be forced to come and seek it on our side: And all this to deceive us, as they did.
For about three, or four days after Treachery of the Spiniards. they came with three boats to force us, and they made use of this trick; that is, they put their Nets into their Boats, and hid their Arms under neath, then seeing that all our men [Page 13] were on Shore busie about the Fish, they sent two of their boats to take our men, and the other came on board our Ship as friends, and their Arms being hid we suspected nothing; we being but three on board, the Captain, the Carpenter, and my self▪ with one Black. The Captain commanded me to make ready a Collation for them; but they saved me that labour, by seising upon our Captain, and the Room where the Arms were. One of the Duke's Ship-boy's taking a naked▪sword in his hand, set himself against the Cabine-door, to hinder any of us from entering, then they weighed the Anchors, and set Sail, and made towards the Mole, where their Ships were: Being arrived there, they took away all our Arms, our Pouder, and our Sails; then putting again all our men into our Ship, to compleat the Lading of Fish, they kept good watch all the night, continually mistrusting us.
But Christmas being come, which was almost the time to depart from hence, to return with the Fish, against Lent. They took all our men out of [Page 14] our Ship, and put them in theirs, placing Spaniards in ours, leaving some of our men there, to help about the Fish. Of three Ships that remained there, two set Sail, and ours made the third, to return into Spain▪ But being in the open Sea, holding the Master of our Ship in theirs they gave the command to the Spanish-Captain, which was in ours, and the Duke's Cabin-boy being left there for Master: the others then held their Course, and left us alone: But being about Porto-Santo near to the Isle Port-Santo, or Holy Ile. Madera. of Madera, we were beaten with contrary winds in so much that we were forced to make towards the Isle, where having cast Anchor a good way off from the City of Madera, we had a mind to go on Shore to refresh our selves: But the Portuguese that lived there would not suffer us, saying we had the Plague, and therefore set Guards at all the Avenues. In so much that we were forced to get down behind the Rocks, where we had bread, and wine brought us for our money, which was from a wall let down to [Page 15] us with a rope, yet not without great intreaty.
We remained Fifteen days in this misery, at the end of which the Spanish Ships our companions▪ which we had left in the Sea, Arrived in the said Isle with their Main-mast cut down by reason of the bad weather. And their General of the Ship made such a doe, by words, and remonstrances, that he obtained leave to enter into Madera; upon condition to take the habit of the City of Madera, he, and his servants; a little after, this General being somewhat indisposed, sent to seek me out in this place, where we were in Custody and took the habit of the City, after the Spanish fashion, which one of the Souldiers of the Castle had lent me; and so I entered Madera to visit this General, where I tarried untill the time of our Embarquement.
Whilest I was visited, and stripped by these people of the Gard-maor in changing my habit, I had forgotten my Purse, which I left in my pocket; But these Gallants had remembred to handle it, and took out the most part [Page 16] of my money for me, before I perceived it, and had I not returned presently again to see after it, they had not left me so much as a blanck.
Now one night, as we were all Design to save themselves. with-drawn into our Ship, except the Spanish Captain, and the Pilote, our Captain took a resolution with Six of his men who were there to play the Spaniards a fine trick, before the Master, and Pilote came on board, and the Captain's Mate was ordered to lead the others to the bottom of the Ship, promising to make them drink some good wine, to which the Spanish Mariners, (who are always ready for their share of such a game, when they can have it on free▪cost) would not have failed. We had also disposed our other men in order, some to Guard the Chamber of the Poop, where the Arms were, where I was appointed with one of our men, who had but one Leg, having lost the other in the last Fight: others to set Sail with the wind: And the more to facilitate our design, we weighed one [Page 17] Anchor, leaving the other a pique. But no so sooner had we made an end of weighing Anchor, than presently came the Captain, and the Pilote, with the other Spanish Mariners on board. The Pilot was wounded by a blow with a sword, having on Shore fought a Spaniard of one of the other Ships. Thier Arrival quite spoiled our design, and the next day the wind being good we set Sail.
As for the rest, this Ile of Madera, A description of the Isle and City of Madera, one of the Canaries, or fortunate of the Ancients, may have about Fourty Leagues in compass, and hath two Cities, of which the principal is also called Madera, with two Fortresses, in one of which, and the strongest, there are Castilian Soulders, and in the other Portuguese.
The City is seated in a Valley, and at the foot of a Mountain, from whence comes so much water, and sometimes in such abundance, that very often it causes inundations, which do much damage, carrying away Bridges, Houses, Churches, and other edifices. The City is about [Page 18] as big as St. Denis, but very populous, having a great number of slaves, who work upon the sugar without the City; and about all the rest of the Island, stand here and there May-houses of pleasure. The soil is very plentiful in all sorts of excellent fruits, and especially in Wines: The Air there is very sweet and temperate, and the pleasantest place in the World to live in; And 'tis no wonder if the Ancients esteemed this country to be the Elisian fields, and as an earthly Paradice.
Amongst the rest the Earth there Sugarcanes. produces a great quantity of Sugarcanes very spungie which they of the country cut, and bruise in a Mill, then putting it into the Press, and the Liquor, squeesed out, is put to the fire where 'tis boiled over and over in vessels like those which the Dyers use, so that all the moisture may be wholly consumed; and so having refined it, they clap it into Sugar-loaves. Earthen-moulds, where it is formed into Sugar-loaves, as 'tis brought us▪ The substance, or husk that remains is a redish, and blackish sugar, [Page 19] which they call Meleche, that is to say black.
I saw there the French Consul, Named Jean de Chux, who had married the Niece of Don Christoval de More, Vice Roy of Portugal: He is very rich, and curteous, and did me and my companions a great deal of favour: There are always a great many Factors; as French English Dutch, and others, who are to Load the Ships that trade there, They make there a great quantity of excellent sweet meats, that are carried from thence as Marmelades, quidnies, Candid Lemmon, and several other curious Pastes.
But to return again to our departure; we were not gotten Thirty Leagues from the Ile, when we were overtaken with such a great tempest, that we were forced to return back to Madera, which was the Twenty fifth of January, 1602. and did not go out again till the Ninth of February, and made such hast, that we Arrived at St. Lucar de Baramede in Spain, where being come, our Captain was presently made Prisoner in the Real [Page 20] des Galleres, saying for these Reasons, that in some of the former Voyages he had sold Corn, and Arms to the Moors of Barbary, at Cap-blane; upon which they brought informations with the deposition of the Moors; The Adelandate (not being willing to give Credit to the Moors) Let go our Captain with his Ship, but our Fish was all spoiled, which was a great Loss to us. We went from thence to Lisbon to sell it, where only we sold part of it, but the Visitor of health being come on board our Ship, and finding it bad, commanded us to sell no more of it upon great penalty, so that we were forced to cast the rest into the Sea.
About this time our Captain found V [...]y [...]ges to Mazag [...]n. an opportunity to Fraight his Ship to go to Mazagan in Afrique, to carry Corn, and biscquet to the Portugal Souldiers who are there in Garison to make war in Barbary. With this Lading we parted from Lisbon, the Twenty third of April, the next day after Easter, and that in all diligence to go succour these Poor people, who were ready to die with [Page 21] hunger; There had been before several Ships sent with Victuals but had been taken by the Pirates. Being Arrived there, we fired a Cannon to give them notice, to send us a Pilot to come nearer; they answered us with another shot, and sent the said Pilot; we approached as near as we possibly could, and cast Anchor about three or four Leagues from Mazagan, with that a great number of boats came on board to unlade us. It was a great pity to see these poor people Great hunger of the Spaniard. how they were starved, and if these Victuals had not come so seasonably as they did, I believe they had been either dead, or otherways had been forced to have yielded themselves slaves to the Barbarous-moors. I could not hinder the children, nor the great ones themselves, from boring holes in the sacks where the biscquet were that they might eat, or rather allay their hunger. I did my utmost endeavour to keep them away, tho' I was very sorry to see them so faint, and look so dreadfully with hunger. My Captain had given me the charge of the biscquet, for to return him the same [Page 22] weight that he had delivered to me at Lisbon.
This being all unladed and put into the Magazines for that purpose, I saw the Gentlemen and Cavalliers coming to look every one for his weight of Biscuit, and measure of Corn, which is ordinarily allowed them by the King of Spain. One of these Cavalliers received and lodged me in his House; for there is no Inn nor resting place for Strangers.
I ordered the Business so, that our Captain and Master were lodged there also, causing Beds to be prepared for them to lie in.
As for me, I received a thousand Courtesies from this Cavallier, whom I cured of an Humour he had in his Eyes, which he finding remov'd, knew not how to treat me. For in this place was neither Physician nor Apothecary, but only one Surgeon, who was very well sk [...]ll'd in the Latin Tongue, but wanted the knowledge of Medicines, and Experience.
The Cor [...]igidor, or Judge of this place, invited me one day to Dine with this Surgeon, who discoursed [Page 23] very readily in Latin; yet for all that he could not give Ease to a Patient that he had.
The most part of the People of the City came to ask for me at my Lodging to give them Physick, and made me great Offers; But I had not leisure to give Satisfaction to all; forasmuch as we were to return in a short time, as we did not long after.
As for the rest, this City of Mazagan Mazagan described. is very strong, and the Walls so thick, that six Cavalliers may walk abreast round about 'em: The Houses there are very low, and over-topped by the Walls. There is a great many Cannon, very large and long, and line almost all the Wall, but ill mounted: There may be about forty Cannoniers, with some 600 Soldiers, viz. 200 Horse, and 400 Foot, the most part Married. They make Incursions upon the Arabians, whom they take Prisoners, and drive away their Cattle. They have hard by them a City called Azamor, which makes hot War upon [...]. them, and not above two Leagues one from the other. Every morning there goes out 40 Horse to discover what [Page 24] they can see, and tarry out till noon: In the afternoon 40 others go out, who stay till night: And there are about six of these Cavalliers whom they call Atalayes, that is to say, the Watch, Atalayes. who are far distant one from the other, and keep Centinel every where; and when they discover any thing, they Post back; and then the City Watch, who sees them, strikes 2 or 3 blows upon a Bell; with that, the others presently mount their Horses, and run to the place of the signal. For in every place where these Atalayes are, there is a long Pole, like a Mast; and when they perceive any thing, they with a little Cord heave their sign on high, which is the signal to all those who Salley out of Mazagan. When they have a mind to make an Incursion, every one arms himself, each of 'em carrying Forage for their Horses, whom they give Corn to, out of the Allowance, and Pension, which is sent them from Por [...]g [...].
They Eat there abundance of Caricols, Carical [...]. which are little Snails in Shells, who [...]d upon the Plants; and there [Page 25] the Plants are of an exceeding force and virtue.
The Bees there make White Honey of Africa. Honey, and of an excellent Taste: Their Hives are upon the Houses, which after the African manner are covered with Sotees, like to Cieling after the Moresque; and one may easily go from one House to another.
This City of Mazagan is nothing Country of Mazagan. else but a Fortress, being about half a League in compass; and is inhabited by none but Men of War, who have every one their piece of Land round about the City, where they Sow Corn, as Barley, Pease, Beans, and other G [...]ains; but very often the Moors Villanies of the Moors. come and cut it up in the night time, and spoil it. The rest of the Country is Uncultivated.
The Moors do them a thousand Injuries, even to Poisoning a Well, which they have out of the City in a Garden, by casting in Carrion, with other filth and nastiness.
Within the City there is a full Cistern; and upon the Ciloe's Festival-Day, the watch is set: It is very high and large, and is capable of holding above 20000 Pipes of Water.
[Page 26] I was near being left to tarry in this City. For the day before we were to set sail, our Captain and the Master came ashore for me; for I never budged from the City, minding nothing else but the Cure of these People. Now, as I was gone to walk along by the Sea-side, to gather some Sea▪Crist, which is there in abundance, being returned to the City to take my rest▪ I was sent for in great haste to go see a Patient, upon which our Captain went away, and left me there all alone▪ Knowing this, I went presently▪towards the Sea-shore, but he was already far▪enough from thence▪ so I was forced to go back again to the City to wait till the next day▪ In the mean time the Ship finding the Wind good, set Sail; and a Soldier, who was a Centinel upon the Wall, knowing that I was still in the City▪ came presently to give me notice thereof; At which all astonished I run presently to the Wall to see if it was true, and being in great perplexity how to get out from thence, [...] went to the Captain of the Foot Soldiers to desire him to cause the Ga [...]e [Page 27] to be opened, which he did, and gave the Key to the Porter; but I must stay till the Cavalliers were ready to go out: This time seemed to me an Age. At last the Gate being opened, I desired the Pilot-Moor to get me a Boat ready, to carry me on Board our Ship; and by good fortune I found some Soldiers who were going a Fishing, one of whom had brought us from Portugal. They did me that favour as to take me into their Boat: Had we wanted that little Wind, which was weak enough, I had been forced to have tarried there; for which I should not have been much perplexed, had I but had my Cloaths, my Medicines, and my other Things; but I had unhappily been in my Doublet, without comfort, or any other thing. These Soldiers then did their utmost to overtake the Ship, which was already got far off, besides the Sea began to rise, insomuch that these Men would not go any further, telling, that if the Wind should rise but never so little, they should not be able to recover Land by their utmost Efforts, but run the risque of their Lives▪ [Page 28] Hereupon they left of Rowing, and and held Council amongst themselves what was best to be done; and having resolved to return, they began again to handle their Oars; upon which, I being much vexed, endeavour'd to urge them by Prayers and Promises, that I would certainly Content them, to return again towards the Ship; and by strength of Oars we made our way so that we arrived there. This was no small fortune for me, considering in what trouble they live in there; Besides, the most part of the Portuguese there are such People who are carried thither by Force, being Condemned to be there for a certain time to make War upon the Moors; In short, they are almost all Criminals, otherwise none would be forced to go there.
Having then happily overtaken our Ship, our Captain for excuse, let me understand, that he could not possibly wait any longer for me than until it was day, and if I had not been on Shore, he had set sail the same night, knowing well that when I saw them under Sail I would hast to overtake [Page 29] them. But I believe the reason that moved him to go away so hastily without me, was rather to Cheat me of some Money he owed me, and which he payed me since, against his Will, telling me of his Losses; but I was not bound to participate in them, forasmuch as the Condition that I made with him was neither for Gain nor Loss. But I could not get any thing of him since then, but by an Arrest of the Parliament of Britagne in the year 1603.
At last we arrived at St. Lucar de Baramede the 26th of May, and being Return to Africa. laden with Salt in the River of Seville, near the Salt▪Houses, which are there along the Coast, with some Scutcheneal, such as Scarlet is Dyed withall, and about 30000 Crowns in silver, we set sail the first of July 1692. accompanied with a little Flemish Ship. The 15th of the same month we descried two great Ships, with their Pataches, making full Sail upon us, and we prepared our selves presently to receive them, ordering our Net-Decks, and running out our Guns, in number 12, with our Pattereroes and [Page 30] Muskets; then hoisting our Sails, and handling our Yards, we waited for them in so ready a posture. It was not long before they were upon us, commanding us to yield, and low [...] Sea Fight. our Sails, and began to Salute us, each with a Broadside; in the mean time we answering them in the same Language: The Fight continued so all the day, without gaining the least advantage one upon the other: We had a great many Men wounded and burnt with the Fire that was kindled by some shots of Cannon; and besides, one of the great Guns burst into pieces, and the Breech of it broke through the two Decks, fell amongst the Salt, and had it not been for the resistance that it found there, it had broke quite through our Ship. In the mean time the small Shot rained upon us like Hail, and Fight. without ceasing, insomuch that our Ship was pierced through and through on every side, and our Sails torn to pieces, and all the rest in bad Equipage; but the night coming on, the Fight ceased, and our Enemies watched us all until the next morning, then they left us at [Page 31] liberty. All the night we were consulting what we had best to do, whether to yield, or to defend our selves to the utmost extremity. Our Captain, who was of a great Courage, would not hearken to yielding: Hereupon we went on Board the Flemish-Ship to know their pleasure. This Flemish Ship at the first discharge of her Cannon, had burnt all her Powder, with which a great number of her Men were disabled and destroyed. They had put their Powder in a piece of Sail, and a Match by chance touched Accident of Powder. it, which was the cause of this Disaster. I went on Board their Ship to see their Pilot, who was quite Roasted, his Belly, Face, and Hands, mighty big and swoln; I brought him some Remedies. I was told that there was 4 or 5 others in a very bad condition, and ready to die: They were Burnt after a pitious and horrible manner. In the end, after we had well consulted with them, it was resolved to send a Boat on Board the Enemies, with a Man that understood their Language, for they were English; which was done accordingly: But [Page 32] they would be pacified by no means whatsoever, saying, that they had suffered a great deal of loss, and that it was not their intention to do any harm to the French, that being expresly forbidden them by the Queen their Mistress: But that our Captain had given them ill Language, and that he himself must come on Board them to excuse himself, which was done; And they came on Board us, with the Boats of their two Ships, searching in every corner, but they found nothing but Salt: If they had met with our Money, we should have been in a bad condition; for they had played us a trick of their Trade. At last, after we had made them some Presents of Victuals, they withdrew themselves. Their Mariners and Soldiers told us that they had resolved to have fallen▪ upon us in the morning; and had Drank to one another, and Eaten all the little Refreshment they had, hoping to have more of us; but God by his Mercy delivered us from them.
[Page 33] Note, That one of these two Ships by whom we were so beaten, was the same that we met withall at the first, and who had so Chased us in going to Cape-blane: We having then made him good chear, which was no small help to us at this time; and he told us, that after he had left us, he took a Ship laden with Sugar, which paid him well for the trouble we had given him.
In the mean time, being delivered Return to France. from this danger, we made such haste that we came near to the Cape de Finibus Terrae: On this side of the Cape we found a German Ship of Lubeck, very great, and put out our Boat to go on board her, that we might have a little Biscquet, for ours began to grow very short, because of the contrary Weather. Winds. We had some of them for our Money, and they were very honest Men: I went also in the Boat to have some Refreshments; but the Wind being high, the Sea began to rise, and the fore part of our Boat was broke, drawing so much Water that we could find no way to empty it; and the German Ship was already a League and a half off us▪ but they made a little [Page 34] towards us, seeing us in the Sea: We had much ado to get into her, and I to find hold betwixt the Boat and the Ship, because the Sea was very high; but taking the end of a Rope, I was very nimble in mounting up, and had only one Leg a little bruised.
At last, we arrived at St. Malo the first of August: The next day our Ship Arriving at St. Malo. was likely to have been lost in the Road, by a great Storm that came so Great danger at An-charing. unlooked for, that we had much ado to make the Men go on board, or otherways the Vessel had sunk at Anchor; And so this troublesome Voyage was finished, for which God be Praised.
A Description of the following Cutts.
The First, The Lybians, towards Cape Blanc, go in this posture in search of their Enemies.
The Second, The Form of the Lybian's Fighting when they Encounter.
A Description of the following Cutts.
The Third, The Moors of Lybia go thus about the Desarts with their Camels.
The Fourth, How the Lybian Women go along by the Sea-side to look for Fish, and Ostrich Eggs to Eat.
THE TRAVELS AND VOYAGES OF John Mocquet, INTO THE WEST-INDIES: As also, In the River of the Amazons; The Country of the Caripous and Caribes; and other Nations and Isles of the West.
BOOK II.
AFter my return from Africa, I continued for sometime in France, and knowing that the Sieur de la Ravardiere was going away for the West-Indies, [Page 40] I had a wonderful desire to see those Countries: And for this cause I Embarking [...] the VVest-Indies. entered my self with the Sieur, and embarked in his Ship in the Haven of Concale the 12th of Jan. 1604. We went to Cho [...]e, (which is an Isle five Leagues from Concale) there to wait for weather for us to put to Sea. We tarried there till the 24th of the same month, not without having suffered by great Winds; which gave us no small trouble, besides the loss of our Boat; but we soon bought another, and at last set Sail, bearing South East, and in a little time▪ we passed the Channel. And forasmuch as our Ship was new, not having as yet been proved in the Sea, we were forced to suffer her to take her Course; not being able to bear up Sails; for she veer'd after such a manner, (her Top-Mast being high) that she was continually with one side upon the Water, which was a great inconvenience: Nevertheless, putting our trust in God, we proc [...]ded on; and at the height of the Cape de Finibus Terrae, we found a Ship, and made full sail upon her to [...] know what she was. Coming close [Page 41] up to, and being prepared to attack her, and they also provided to receive us, we found out that it was a French Ship, the Captain of which came upon the Poop well armed, with his Sword in his Hand, crying out to us to Steer Leeward, or else he would fire at us; but we contesting a little thereupon, that we might find out and know of what part of France he might be: After having well considered him and known him for a right French Man, we came up Leewards of him, of which he was not a little Proud, thinking that we had been a Man of War, and durst not assault him; for he made signs with his Sword upon the Poop, that we had done well to come up so: But our design was not to make War upon our Nation; besides, that might have been enough to have broken our Voyage.
Holding then our Course, we had so favourable a Wind that we came near to the Isle of Lancelot the 6th of February; upon which day one of our Men fell over-board into the Sea, and A Disaster. it was impossible to save him, because we had a right Wind. We presently [Page 42] tack'd about upon him; but coming to the place, where he fell. we found nothing but his Breeches. All things that belong'd to him were presently put to Sale upon the Deck, and every one Bought what he had occasion for, as Coats, Linnen, and other Things, with which he was very well furnished: For he was of the Rank of the Nobility, and was named Duvall, of Vire in Normandy.
This done, we steered our Course towards the Coast of Barbary, and the Coast of Barbary. next day the 11th of the same month, we arrived near the Land to find out a Port, and cast Anchor in a Creek or Bay, putting out our Boat to go on shore: But coming there, we found nothing but Desarts, without any thing else; insomuch, that we returned again on Board the Ship to weigh Anchor, and to look out some other place more proper to stay in, and to fit up our Patache, scowring along this Coast all the rest of that day and the night following▪
Presently after, we found out the Mouth of the River Rio Del Oro, Rio del Oro. where we sent our Boat to Sound the [Page 43] depth of it, and to see if we might enter in so far as a little Island of flat Sand, which those in the Boat had perceived. They found but 12 Foot of Water, and our Ship drew already as many▪ so that the Keel touched Ground; but we had no harm, because the River was Calm. Coming then to this Island, within the River of▪ Rio del Oro, about five Leagues within from the Mouth, which is not taken notice of in the Map. We named the same, Touch Island, after Touch-Island. the Sirname of our Commander, the Sieur de la Ravardiere, where we cast Anchor to tarry for some time. And the 15th of February we began to fit up our Patache, which was ready in our Ship, and only wanted Mounting and Chaulking.
During this time we went daily to look for Shells, the finest in the world, and seemed as if they were enamel'd with Gold: As I put some of them into my Handkerchief, the Poison within, (which was like little Snails) stained it into a Purple colour; and Sea Purple. perhaps it might be the same Espece de Murex, so celebrated by the Antients, [Page 44] and unknown at this time. We gathered a great quantity of them for their Beauty. We caught also with our Nets, as much Fish as we could well find use for.
This Island was▪ full of Cormorants, Cormorants and their watch. of which we killed a great number with our Harquebus shot. Of these Birds there is always one that watches when the others take their rest, as 'tis said of the Cranes. We had much ado to come near them, and were forced to creep along the Ground to take them. But after they began to be a little frighted with the Harquebusses, they came no more as before.
We tarried near a month in this place without seeing any Man; but about five or six days before our departure, we perceived a Smoak in the Country, about three Leagues from us; which made us conjecture that there were some Lybians and Blacks Blacks of Lybia. come there, because towards the Coast, the Desarts of Lybia begin. These Blacks were come a great way out of the Country, to look towards the [...]oast to see if there was any Ship to Traffick for Ambergreece, and carried [Page 45] their Water in Goat-Skins, cut out for that purpose. In the night time they creep into the Sand to Sleep, for fear of being smelt out by the Lions and Tygers, who are there in abundance.
It might be properly said, that these Men came out of Hell, they were so burnt, and dreadful to look upon: We sent then our Boat to know the cause of these Fires seen in the Country, and found three of these Lybians, (of which 2 came on board our Ship) and one of them told me, that he was the Kinsman of Taquide Alforme of Cape Blanc, of whom I enquir'd news, forasmuch as having heard of him in my former Voyage, towards Cape Blanc.
This was the time that they fasted their Ramadan, and would not Eat any thing till night. 'Tis a great pity to see these People, how poor and miserable they are, without Bread or-any other Food. They Eat nothing but Ostrich Eggs, and some dried Fish, besides some Flesh of the same.
He that had stayed alone on Shore, was Son to one of these other two, [Page 46] and came to receive his Father's coming out of the Boat, prostrating himself before him, and kissing his Hand▪ Then his Father gave him some of the Bisquet that we had given him, of which he was exceeding glad, for he was very Hungry, and had supped but badly in these Desarts; for the most part inhabited by Wild Beasts▪ which are continually there: And from our Ship we heard sometimes in the night terrible Cries and Roaring.
In all this Coast we could not find any fresh Water, nor before in the River, where we sent our Boat to look for some, but in vain, all the Country being Desart, and quite Barren This Island where we had cast Anchor, was directly under the Tropick of Cancer.
Now having fitted up, and put out again our Patache to Sea, we set fail the 10th of March, and having born South West towards the Isles of Cape Verd, Isles of Cape Verd. Sal, Santiago, Fogo. Brava. we roved all along by the Isles of Sa [...], Santiago, and Fogo, to go to Anchor at that of Brava, where we tarried until the 22th of the same month.
[Page 47] All these Islands are much subject to Storms and Boisterous Winds, as it happened to us at this Isle of Brava, where we lost an Anchor, being oblig'd to weigh and drop Anchor so frequently there, when the Wind would drive us sometimes towards Land, presently again to the Sea. 'Tis supposed that these Winds are shut up there in some Gulf, as they come out at certain hours of the day. And what is more strange, is, that a League from thence, the Sea was calm, and without Wind; which made me believe that these Winds being so shut up, and come out with such violence, have not the force to penetrate far, being struck back, and repulsed by the Winds which come from the Sea.
We could not find out the Habitations of these Islanders; who are Portuguese, Mestices, and Blacks: The Island bears Tobacco, abundance of Mace, and other Fruits. The Country is very Mountainous, and there are some Fig-Trees to be seen, with Mulbery-Trees, and others.
[Page 48] After we had well refreshed our selves with sweet▪ Water, dried Fish, and other things, which the Islanders sold us, we weighed Anchor to Steer our Course, and had the Wind so favourable, that we arrived at the Mouth of the River of the Amazons on Palm. River of the Amazons. Sunday, about three hours before day. There are great Streams there about the Sea side, which run with a strange swiftness and horrible noise, carrying along with them Trees and Plants, which they pluck up by the Roots along the Coast.
We seeing our selves as soon as it was morning intangled amongst these roaring Streams and Currents, having scarce any Wind, they who were up▪on the Watch began to cry out, that we were all lost, thinking we had been upon the the Shelves▪ At this noise every one began to stir himself to look out for help; and I hearing this word Lost, mounted presently upon the Deck to see if there was any way to swim, and if we were near Land, having no other way to save our selves but by Swiming till day, hoping to have sight of Land, from [Page 49] which according to our Heights we were not far off. Hereupon the Pilot well advis'd, took the Plummet in Hand, and found in Sounding 25 Fathom; whereof being very glad, he cried out, that we were in the River River of the Amazons. of the Amazons, which is almost one Degree on this side the Line. We made but little Sail in expectation of the day, that we might see Land, which we saw the next morning; and Sounding again, we found but nine Fathoms, and so lessening to three or four, and yet we saw no Land, which was a great trouble to us.
On Monday we descried Land, very low towards the South West, and by little and little we app [...]oached the Coast, to have knowledge of the Country, but with fear to run a▪ground; for there the bottom is nothing but Mud, which we touched every moment.
As we were thus wandring about, by good chance we perceived a Canoe Encounter with Indians. with 17 Indians, who came towards us, and went to our Patache which was before us, after that they came on board us: They were all naked, [Page 50] and Painted, as they go in these Countries, with their Crowns of Feathers; and told us that they came from War off the Cape of Caypour, one of the Capes near to the River of the Amazons, and they had some Booty in their Canoe. Their Captain seemed to be a Man of good fashion, yet he was stark naked, and had only a Langoutin, which is a little piece of painted Cotton, to cover his Privities. He spake with such a Grace, that he might have been taken for a Man of Counsel; for he spake softly, and gave a grace to all his Words and Gestures▪ After we had discoursed with him Country of Yapoco. about the Country, and where we should Anchor, he left us two Indians for Guides, who conducted us to the Land of Yapaco, in the Mouth of the River, or very near, and caused us to shelter our Ship in a private corner, so that when the Tide went out, she stuck upon the Mud; but the Tide coming in again raised her up.
Arriving then in this Country of Yapaco, we left the River of the Amazons on the left Hand, on the other side of which, towards the South, is [Page 51] the great Country of Brasil, and on this side towards the North, are the Caripons, and Caribes.
Thirty or forty Leagues off from this great River, we found along the Coast a certain Rock, which had Veins of the colour of Slate, with some silver mixed amongst it, out of which I took a little Stone I since lost. We saw there also the marks of some English▪ or Dutch Ship, that had passed by that way.
We arrived there on Monday night, Arrival in the Land of Yapoco. and afterwards on Tuesday morning, the 10th of April, desiring to know what profit we might make in this Country, we went on Shore to Exchange Hatchets, Bills, Knives, and Glass-Beads of several colours, with divers other such like things.
We saw these Indians with two Wood to strike Fire. little pieces of Wood strike fire: I made the Experiment of it since to the late King Henry the Great at Fontainbleau, in the year 1605. All the Indians were run there from their Habitations, and had trimed up their Hammocks, or hanging Beds, made with Wreaths of Palm-Trees; and [Page 52] were in great numbers, Men, Women, and Children, all as naked as when they came out of their Mothers Bellies; except some Beads with which they decked their Bodies; and in their Ears they had long pieces of Wood and round Stones. They had brought a thousand Trifles, as Gumbs, Egrets Feathers, and Parrots, Tobacco, and other Things which the Country afforded. I did my Duty in Exchanging, and took as much of their Merchandize as I possibly could. We made our Bargains without speaking, Merchandize of the Country. shewing by signs what we would have, or give.
The King of this Country of Yapoco, named Anacajoury, was then making ready Cannoe's to go against the Caribes; This was the cause that we could not then make much Bartering in th [...]s place: For they were all busie at work, some at the Cannoes, others to make Arms for their Visage; and others to prepare Victuals, which was the Women's Province: we saw all those People mighty busie at that. Wine of the Country. Amongst others, they made a certain Wine, or Drink of Fruits, which inebritates [Page 53] like Beer or Citre: They chaw a certain Root, then Boil it, and after Strain it. There is another sort of it more thick, which is made of Fruits and Palms, as big as a Gall-Nut, they bruise only the Bark which is upon them; it's as yellow as an Orange; for they make nothing of the Nut; after that they Boil and Strain it. They have another sort, which might be taken for clear Milk, mixed with soft Cheese. I had a great mind to Taste of it, besides, being desired by them to Drink, I would not refuse, for fear they should have thought that I intended 'em any harm; insomuch that they were mightily pleased to see me Drink of it.
They do not love Melancholly and green Persons; and if you make sport with them in Jest, it must be Nature and Manners of those Indians. in Laughing. I clapped them sometimes upon the Back with my Hand in Jest, but they would always return again the like in Laughing. They are very hardy and warlike, courteous and liberal, and have very cheerful Looks.
[Page 54] The Caribes are not so, for they would give us, as the saying is, not so much as a Patato. Patatte; This is a Root like a Turnip, but longer, and of a red and yellow colour: It is of a very good taste, and they Eat it boiled or roasted upon the Coals; but if it is often Eat of, it is very Disrellishing and Windy.
As for Fruits, they have several Fruits. sorts of 'em, good to Eat, but wild and unknown to us, except the Ananana's, or Figs which are very long, and as big as a great Pudding. They have Plantanes, or Fig-Trees, which the Spaniards call Plantins. They make small thin Cakes of Casav [...], which is a Root that they Grate upon a Stone, or a piece of Wood made in the form of a File; not having any Mortar to bruise it in: Then they put [...] it into a great Basket made of little Twigs, like Willows. These Roots also yield a juice which is poisonous. After having well pressed it, dried it, and sop'd it in Water, they make it [...]. into a Paste, spread it upon a great flat Stone that is upon the Fire, which gives it the form of a very thin Cake. [Page 55] When it is done so, it may be kept three, or four years, or more, so it be laid in a dry place. I tasted of it, but it did not relish as our Bread, and I believe that one would soon be weary of Eating it often. They make several other sorts of things to Eat, but very course and grosly, which is not very pleasant to those who are not accustomed vvith them.
I saw them make their preparations in the Lodgings of their King Anacajoury, to Victual the Cannoes which were to go to the War; but they put all these Casaves, or Cakes, (which I spoke of) into a Pile in the middle of the House, and their Drink in Gourd Bottles, which hold more than a Pail. For these Gourd Bottles are of a wonderful greatness in comparison to ours.
I saw at the House of this King, a Caribe-Slave, whom they made to work to get ready these Victuals for the War. This little Naval Army was about 35 Cannoes, with 25 or 30 men in each.
But to return again to our arrival in this place of Yapaco; as soon as we King Anacajoury. were entered into this Country, the [Page 56] King Anacajoury gave us two of his Nephews in Hostage, if by chance any of ours should there loose himself, or his way: The Grandchild of this King led me about the Woods; for all the Coast is covered with Trees, and there was some Indians with him. This little Boy was very brisk, and mighty witty for a Savage, and shewed me the Fruits, which Mancenille Fru [...]t. were good to Eat, and which not. Amongst others, they have a Fruit called Mancenille, of the bigness of an Orange, very yellow, and beautiful to look upon; but yet so venomous, that they say, if it is put never so little to the Mouth, it kills immediately; and the Fish themselves, which are all along the Coast, who suck this Fruit, are carried by the Sea to Land: for the Tree which bears it is near to Sea, which comes up into these Woods, and drags along with it a thousand sorts of Fruits, as we saw in the River of the Amazons.
The Fish who suck this Fruit, peel and loose their Scales: Whosoever Eats of this Fish loose all their Epiderme, or Upper-Skin, like the Lepers [Page 57] who Eat the Flesh of Vipers. As soon as any one finds himself seiz'd with such an accident, they presently conjecture they have Eat of the Poison of Mancen [...]lle, as the Spaniards have named it, who inhabit these Indies.
This King's Grand-Child shewed me several Herbs which they make use of, and one amongst others which Antidote against▪ Poison. serves them for an Antidote when they are struck with Poisoned Arrows. I took some of the Leaves of this Herb to compound an Unguent, which is an excellent remedy for Wounds, and other Sores. I would also have plucked up some of the Root, but this little Boy would not suffer it: And besides, the Indians who were with him, seemed to be very angry he had shewed me this Plant, which they prised and esteemed above all others. I would not insist any more thereupon, for fear his Grand-Father should be displeased with me.
After I had gathered a great quantity of Plants, Fruits, and other Rarities, I returned on board the Ship to lock them up.
[Page 58] On Tuesday the 11th of April, I went to their Habitations to see if I could get any more Curiosities, taking some Knives, and other Pedlars-Ware, to exchange with them. Our Pilo [...] being with me, we went into a Cabin, where there were a great number of Indians, Men and Women; and there were amongst the rest some about 17 or 18 years of Age, pounding in a Mortar made of a hollow piece of Wood, with a long Stick. I also took a Stick to help her to Pound, of which she was very glad, seeing I understood the manner of Pounding after their way: And though she was Stark-Naked, she cared not for my being over against Innocent nakedn [...]ss of the [...] People. her. After that, she gathered us some Potato's, and besides those, gave us other Things to Eat, and all with an admirable Grace and Civility.
I believe these Caripous are of all the Indians the most sweet and mild in Behaviour: They are very curious of Honour, Ambitious to do Kindness to those who visit them: The Women, Girls, and Children, came very freely on board our Ship, without any shew of shame for their Nakedness, [Page 59] but were continually drawing their Legs close, like Half-Moons. There was a little Indian brought me some Balls of Tobacco, with a little Case made of the Bark of a Tree, as wide as a Pocket, and as round as a Ring: It's that which the Men make use of to bind up their Privy-Parts; they can easily change them, or take them away when they please. I took two or three of them for curiosity, seeing 'em so ingeniously made. All the Indians round about having heard the discharge of Cannon, came presently from every quarter that was nigh, to exchange their Goods with our Knives, Hatchets, and other small Ware.
When the Cannon had fired, the noise of it continued near a quarter of an hour in these rough Woods, so that all the Country, Mountains, and Vallies, were filled with the Eccho's, which answered one another with a wonderful noise, which might be heard as I believe, above 25 Leagues from thence.
As for the rest, these Caripous People are great Enemies to the Caribes, who make mortal War one Caribes. [Page 60] upon the other The Caribes eat the Caripous, but the aripous do not eat them. This little Grandson of the King of Yapaco's, shewed me by signs, how the Caribes had great Teeth, and Biting his Arm, made me to understand that they Eat them when they happen to take them in War. The Hatred betwixt them is so great, that it is impossible ever to reconcile them; nevertheless I have heard say since, by a Mariner of Haure de Grace, that they had made some sort of a Reconciliation betwixt 'em.
Being then amongst these Savages, I saw one day amongst others, the Captain of the Cannoes, whom we found at the first: He made me great Demonstrations of Friendship by his Gestures, saying, that he would bring me from his Country, (far from thence) several choice Things, and amongst others, some little pretty Parrots, speaking Parrot [...]. their Language. Yet I waited not so much in expectation of his Promises, as to neglect to provide my self elsewhere. My first thing was a little Parrot as big as a Sparrow, with a long Tail, and very Tame, which would with a wonderful Pleasure pick [Page 61] the Hair of the Beard, so that it could scarce be felt. I gave a little Knife in exchange for it. This Captaih who had promised me so many Rarities, came to offer me amongst other Things, a Truss of Serpents, Serpents good to [...]at. which were as Fat as a great Conger, and the Skin so speckled with yellow, grey, blue, and other colours, that I had no great mind to try how they relish'd, though some living on them, make great Feasts together: They are prepared in Leaves, and roasted. I also took notice that these Caripous live better than these Caribes; for they know how to make Cakes with Mace, which are very good, and have other things to Eat, agreeable enough to the Country where they live.
These People Eat also another sort of Serpents, like Adders, of a strange greatness and length. This Country of Yapoco is above 120 Leagues from the Country of Toupinambous, which is towards the River Maragnon, or Brasil: And those of Yapoco are of the same colour and swarthy Complexion with the others, but they [Page 62] are far finer, more lively, and pleasant.
Speaking of this Captain, I will relate in this place a strange and remarkable thing of these People, that the Nephew of Anacajoury told me, to whom the Soveraign Command of this Country belongeth, and because of his Youth, his Uncle governed until such time as he should be of Age to Rule. He told me, That they did Eat neither Flesh nor Fish until Strange Ceremonies to make Captains. they had killed some of their Enemies; and when they had killed any one of them in War, they observed this Ceremony, which should not be otherways agreeable to our French Captains. They make a Link of Palm in which they put him whom they design for Captain, who before he may Eat either Flesh or Fish, must undergo therein the Exercise of their Weapons; Then causing all the greatest Captains of the Country to come, who with the King of the place, make one after another, a Harrangue or Speech to this new one, telling him, that he must be couragious, hardy, and nimble in Battel, and never give [Page 63] Ground but upon great occasion, and with Judgment undergo all the hardships of War, be they never so great; and love the Virtue, Honour, and Reputation of a good and just Coptain. VVhen they have finished this Discourse, they take a great Switch in Hand, wherewith every one gives him three great Blows, with all their force, so that the Body is all over Black and Bloody, upon which Blisters may be seen to rise as big as ones Finger; and so one after another make him the same Discourse, repeating so many Blows with the Switch; which lasts a full Month, 3 or 4 times a Week. In the mean time this poor Patient in all that time Eats nothing but Casaves and Potates, until he has had all his Ornaments of Virtue. And then they make a great Fire, putting thereon Green Leaves to make it Smoak, and also to hinder the force of the Flame; Then they have an Amica, or Hanging Bed after their manner, in which they put this new Captain, crowning him with Leaves; and there he must endure all the Heat and Smoak untill hr Swoon's away, [Page 64] and seeing he scarce Breaths, they let the Bed down, and taking plenty of fresh Water, they cast it upon him, untill he comes again to himself, as from Death to Life. All this being done, he is Honoured as a great Captain, and then they go a Cruising along the Coasts to meet their Enemies: After being upon their return to their Habitations, they make still Remonstrances to this new Captain, and give him each one, three Blows; and from thence forth he may Eat Flesh. Sometime after that, they take another turn in the Sea with their Cannoes; and if they find any of their Enemies, they fail not to return to perfect this Captain, to whom they give three Blows more, and then he may Eat Fish; and so he is created and admitted into the Office, to bear Command over the others. But that is not done but to those who have well behaved themselves in Battle, knocking down many Enemies.
I leave it to you, if our Men of War (who come to this Honour most commonly by the Purse, than Virtue) would Buy that Honour at so dear a [Page 65] Rate as these poor Savages do: Yet what I wonder at most of all, is, that Admirable patience of these Indians. the Indian who suffers these Blows with a Switch, is neither to st [...]r, nor cry out in the least, but only to shrink up his Shoulders if he please.
As for my part, I saw almost the like in my return: For we had in our Ship three Indians, whom we brought into France, two Caribes, Brothers, and one Caripou, Nephew to the King of Yapoco.
Now one of these Brother Caribes, the least named Atoupa, (we being Atoupa in the River of Cayenne, where the Caribes are) said, He would go into France, but he thought the Ship was France, and called it so; but when we were to go away, he strove with all his force to leap into the Sea, to save himself on Land; And we being at Anchor in the River, to hinder him we gave him in custody to the Caripou Yapoco, their sworn Enemy; so that at every step that Atoupa took, Yapoco took another, following him up and down every where in the Ship, and bid us let him alone, and if at any time he were so bold as to cast himself [Page 66] into the Sea, he also would be presently after him, and make him Dive his Head to the bottom, to Drink to his Friends. This little Caribe Atoupa, not being above 14 or 15 years of Age, one day took a resolution to Drown or Kill himself, as he could best have occasion; and had cast himself into the Sea had not he, who, ever had an eye upon him, catched hold of his Legs. When we were in the main Sea, his Brother held him continually Embraced, and in the night he tied him, but he was often found untied; and seeing that he could find no expedient to Drown or Kill himself, (for he was not suffered to get to any Knives, wherewith he might do himself a mischief) one day finding a piece of sharp pointed Wood, he struck Yapoco such a blow therewith upon the Throat, that it sliced away the Skin from one side of his Neck; which our General hearing of, caused him to be brought upon the Deck, and with a Whip made of Pack thread, tied to a Stick, to be severely Whipp'd, but he seemed as if he had not been touched, only shrinking [Page 67] up his Shoulders a little, without either crying out, or speaking one word; which seemed very strange to me, seeing him so marked with the Stripes he had received so severely.
But to return again to our Traffick in this Country of Yapoco, having made Exchange of all the Merchandize that could be found there, we took a resolution to go to the River of Cayenne, Cayenne River. where the Caribes are: But before our departure, the King of Yapoco came on board our Ship, with his Wife, his Sister, and his Mother, with the Indian Yapoeo whom we carried away with us, who was his Nephew, his Sister's Son, in whose room the King Anacajoury governed, untill his Majority, which would be in a short time. This Nephew told me, that he had almost received all the Orders of Captain, having undergone the same that all the others do who would attain to that Degree; and that he had been upon an Incursion, and had already Eaten Flesh, but not Fish, which was his last Ornament for the heighth of Honour. His Uncle, and his Mother put him into our Hands, and earnestly [Page 68] desired us by no means to suffer him to fall into the hands of the Caribes, their Enemies, nor the Spaniards, having heard of the Cruelty that they had exercised against those Spanish Cruelty. of their Country, and of the bad usage they had done to those of Jucatan, Zempallan, Tlaxcallan, Panuco, Tecowantep [...]c, and Mexico.
This King also desired our assistance against the Caribes, and that he would go with us, with his Naval-Army, which was ready prepared, as I have said before; and that all the Booty that was taken should be ours: But our General having a mind to Traffick sairly with these Caribes, would not yield to his demand, only he promised to keep his Nephew safe, and that he would not assist the Caribes against him. This Nephew who went along with us, was drawn on by an Indian, Son to the King of the Island of Trinidad, that the English had taken by Subtillity, and who served us for an Interpreter. It was the Millord-Ralle who carried him away in a Voyage; yet he did not understand fo well the Language of the Caripous, being at so [Page 69] great a distance from them; besides, it is a Language very particular, and different also from that of the Caribes, who have much ado to understand it, though they are not above 30 Leagues one from the other. Now this Indian Interpreter, having a mind to Marry one of the Daughters of Anacajoury, and already treated with the Father about it, had caused his Cloaths and other Things to be brought on Shore, telling this King that he would make War upon the Caribes with him, because they had Eaten one of his Brothers; Of which our General being advertised, commanded him not to stir, seeing he was so necessary to us for the Language. He seeing himself detained by force, never rested untill he had persuaded Yapoco, this young Boy that we kept for Hostage, with one of his Brothers, telling him such pleasant Things of France and England, that neither his Mother, nor his Uncle could disswade him; so he came into France with us, where, upon his arrival he was set to turn the Spit, at which he was so offended, that he went away from Cancale to St. Malo's, [Page 70] without saying a word, but was thence fetched again: This was in the year 1604.
Since, in the year 1613, upon my return from my Voyages to Paris, living History of the Indian Yapoco. in the Tuilleries, as Keeper of the Cabinet of Rarities to the King, the Sieur de Rasilly came back from those Parts of Brasil, and hearing that he had brought along with him some Brasilians, to present to the King and the Queen Regent, I went one morning to the Capuchins, were they were, as well to see them, as to hear News of the Sieur de la Ravardiere, Lieutenant to Monsieur de Rasilly, who had tarried behind at Maragnon, to go to the River of the Amazons: But I was no sooner entered into the Chamber where these Brasillian Toupinambeax were, when I perceived Yapaco, who knowing me, came presently to me and caught me about the Neck to embrace me, telling me all his Fortunes, and how he was returned to Brasil, within almost 200 Leagues of his own Country of Yapoco, where he could not go; and that he went to Marguan, a little Island of Brasil; Maraguan [Page 71] Then he embarked in a little Ship with the Segnior du Bos, a Gentleman of Bretaigne, who was come from the Voyage that I made with Monsieur de la Ravardiere; but having been taken by the Pirates towards England, he found means afterwards to return into France, and went to find out Madam de la Ravardiere in Poictou, where he had been before, the other Voyage, and told her News of her Husband, who tarried behind at Brasil. It happened that one day, a Hog falling into the Castle Ditch, this Lady commanded her Servants, and among the rest Yapoco, to help to draw him out; but he, though born in the Country of the Savages▪ disdaining a piece of work so vile and base, told her plainly, that he would not do it; upon which, the Lady giving him some harsh Language, he out of Anger went away without a farewel, and came streight to Rochelle, where he found some Hablois, who brought him to the Havre, and from thence he went to Paris.
[Page 72] When I had thus met with him, and Caressed him, I carried him to my Lodging, where I treated him as well as I could: After that, I took him to the King, who desired to see him: I caused him to Kneel before the King, who commanded me to speak to him in his own Language, for I understood a little of it; Then he ordered some Money to be given him.
After that, he was carried to the Havre, where Madam de la Ravardiere sent for him by her Servants, and since I heard no more News of him: Such was the Fortune of this young Yapoco.
But to return to these People, Savage Good Nature of the Caripous. as they are, they are great Friends to Honour, and of all that which is just and true, which they reverence from their Infancy, abhorring all wicked Men and Cheats, as much as they are Friends to the good and vertuous. They do not Love a Coward, or a Pultron, but Honour such as are Valiant and Couragious.
But since we are still near the River of the Amazons, before we part from thence, it will not be much amiss to [Page 73] say something of it from what I was able to learn in those Parts.
Some have taken the River of the Amazons, or Oregliane, for that of Maragnan; but others will make two of them, and say, that their Mouths are distant some hundred Leagues; that of Maragan making the limits of Brasil on the Northen Coast, as the River of Plate, or Silver, makes the other Bounds on the South. All these Rivers come from the Mountains of Peru, the highest, and of the difficultest access of any others in the whole World.
The River of the Amazons is very River of the Amazons. broad in its Mouth, some 50 Leagues or thereabouts from one Shore to the other, and contains several great Islands.
The Sea there runs at the hours of the Tide, being very swift in its Ebbing and Flowing, and carries along with it many Trees and Plants it plucks up by the Roots, all along the Coasts, which are like great Forests; for there the Coast being low, the Sea easily enters far up into the Country. The colour of this River inclines to a [Page 74] dark grey: We found the Water of it Sweet 30 Leagues within the Sea. Within this River, about 30 or 40 Leagues up, are some Islands where these Warlike Women, the Amazons Amazons Warlike Women. inhabit, who make War upon those of the Continent of the Coast of Brasil; and on the other side, where the Indians inhabit, towards the Cape of Voyanpouc, are their Friends and constant Confederates. These Women for Propagation, have to do every year with the said Indians in the month of April, and give them notice when they desire to have them come to see them, all the Days and Hours of that month, and do not suffer the said Indians to enter into their Islands more strong than themselves, setting some to guard the entrance, whilst others pass away their time, exchanging always these guards, by their turn, and so imploying all this Month of Love in the soft Caresses of Joy and Delight. Month of Love. At the end of the year, when their Confederates return to them, if they have Conceived in the mean time, they keep the Females, and give the Males to the Men, not keeping [Page 75] them above a year; And 'tis probable that these Sons which they give to these Indians, may afterwards have to do with their Sisters and near Kins-Women; For they have a Custom always to seek out the Children of those they have had to do with. Now, though these Indians should be all Married in the Continent, these Amazons serve them only for Friends, and make Presents to one another for a sign of Mutual Love and Good Will. As to that which some say, that they wear but one Breast, and Burn off the other, according to the manner of the ancient Amazons, who inhabited towards the Thanais and Thermodon, they are nothing but Fables. 'Tis true▪ that these Women do on purpose lose the Milk of one Breast that they may the better draw the Bow; and so perhaps this saying of the Ancients is to be understood.
The Son of the King of Yapoco, amongst other Things, told me, That these Women wear the Hair of their Privy-Parts very long, Combing them like their Heads, and that they are of a very great stature; adding also, [Page 76] that he had been in their Country with his Uncle Anacajoury.
We could not go to see them, as we desired, because the Streams there are too violent for Vessels, and especially for our Ship and Patache, who drew in already abundance of Water: For the Streams run towards the Coast, and 'tis impossible to go there except it be with a Boat and Oars, or with the Indians Cannoes, which draw but one Foot of Water.
Behold what I was able to learn of these Amazons; which makes me not to give credit to all that we find written of those antient Women, so famous. 'Tis said that there are still some of them in Africa, towards the Cape of Good Hope, in the Kingdom of Monomotapa.
All the Country on the Left Hand, at the entrance into the River of the Amazons, is comprehended in the great Province of Brasil, first discovered by Alvarez Cabral, a Portugal Captain, in the year 1500, and by John Vincent and Arias Pinco, who in a [...]e year 1509. discovered the great River Maragnan, reckoned the biggest [Page 77] in the World. Since, Americus Vespuceus, and others, made a fuller discovery of those Countries. In the year 1542, the French Captain Oregliane, sent by Gonzale-Pizarro the Spaniard, found out the River which comes from the Province Atunquixo, thirty Leagues from the South Sea. He parted from Peru, and followed this River, descending above 400 Leagues in a streight Line to its Mouth, and more than 1700 with the turnings and windings, finding many Peopled Islands.
He was eight months in this Navigation, with a thousand Perils and Incommodities; and reported, that he had found (upon a certain Rivulet here) Women Archers, which are of the Amazons: The Spaniards had Wars with them.
Before this, Columbus in his second Voyage had discovered these Amazons in an Isle, which the Indians call Madannina or Martinina. This Captain Oregliane gave his name to this great River of the Amazons, which he took for Maragnan, as the modern Navigators seem to agree: And indeed, they who [Page 78] were in the year 1612. in the Country of the Toupinambous, and in the Isle of Maragnan, report, That there is no River there of this Name, but only a Creek or Bay, in which is this Isle of Maragnan: This Name hath perhaps been the cause that this River towards Oregliane, or that of the Amazons, hath been taken for another River of Maragnan, though they are one and the same.
But to return to our departure from the Country of Yapoco, to go towards Parting from Yapoco. the Caribes Man-Eaters, we departed from thence on Easter-Day, the 15th of April in the year 1604. bearing along the Coast, and our Ship running a-ground when▪ the Tide went out, we were forced to strike Sail, and cast Anchor until the Sea floated us again. We run all along the Coast, which is very pleasant, and filled with an infinite number of green Trees, which render all these places very sweet and agreeable.
We had no sooner approached the River of Cayenne, than we perceived a Cayenne. Cannoe, which came on board our Ship, and there was in it, one named [Page 79] Yago, Brother to Camaria, King of the Caribes. Caribes, who having spied the Nephew Camaria. of Anacajoury whom we had in our Ship, was mightily surprised at first, not knowing what to think of our coming with this Yapoco their Sworn Enemy. Nevertheless, he failed not to guide us in this River of Cayenne, which is very pleasant, and convenient for Ships to abide in, being 5 or 6 Fathoms deep, in some places more, add others less. This Yago told us, That he knew well enough the King of Yapoco was preparing himself to come and visit them, and that they expected him within 3 or 4 days, as their Toupan or Devil had told them; which was true: For while we continued there for some days, at the end of 'em our General sent some of his Men into the Country, with Camaria their King; one of my Servants also went along with them, to procure me some of the most curious and rare Things he could find. Being come to a place where Camaria conducted them, 5 or 6 Leagues from thence, they found out, that Anacajoury had been there, with his Naval-Army, [Page 80] and had wasted and burnt the Country, and carried away a great number of the Inhabitants from this Coast, and saw also how they served their Enemies, who had been killed upon the place.
They Eating them Roasted, an Cannibals or Man-Eaters. Indian Woman offered a roasted Hand to our General, but he angrily refused it.
Our General had already▪ been amongst them in the first Voyage, but having seen some of their Cruelties, would go there no more, yet he sent some of his men, as I have said before:
My Servant being returned, told me, they made great lamentations at Camaria for the loss they had suffered; and that Camaria thereupon was troubled in such a manner, that it was impossible to appease him; yet he comforted them as well as he could, promising to order the Business so as to get into his Hands Yapoco the King Anacajoury's Nephew, to make a Solemn Feast of him; and that they should e're long have Revenge upon their Enemies, whom they would with [Page 81] Joy Feast upon at their Pleasure. There was an Indian Woman, who, knowing my Servant was a Surgeon, entreated him to Cure her of a blow of a Sword, she had received upon her Head: But he perceiving that the Skull was split, and the Brains to be seen, told her freely he could give her no help. There were several others wounded, to whom he did what help he was able.
Whilst he was amongst them, he told me, that one Night retiring with them into their Cabbins, (made of Branches of Palms) he saw the Ceremonies observed to their Husbands and Friends who had been killed in the fight.
First, An Indian Woman, sitting upon her Amica, or Hanging-Bed, began a Song, very pleasant and agreeable, which continued a long time. That done, she came to reckon up the Ceremonies of the Dead. Exploits of her Dead Husband, how he had Loved her, been Valiant against his Enemies, excellent in Drawing the Bow, able to undergo all the Hardships of War, and a thousand other Gallantries and Perfections, of [Page 82] which she gave a particular account. After that, one of these Indians raised himself from his Amica, and went to desire the others to lament; whereupon they presently fell to Howling so strangely, that one would have thought them to be out of their Wits. These Lamentations ended, they rose up to make Merry with the Flesh of their Enemies, with some Lizards and Crocodiles intermix'd, and all roasted together, thus Feasting upon the Graves of their Husbands and dead Friends, thinking themselves thus to have obliged them. Thus much, my Servant told me, he had taken notice of concerning their Ceremonies to their departed Friends.
In the mean time we Equipped our Boat, the 18th of April, to go to find out the end of the River of Cayenne, and know from whence it comes, and takes its head. We had with us two Indians, to shew us some Brasil, whereof they make their Bows, and having taken with us a Barrel of Liquor, and some Bisquet for Victuals, we spent Coast of the River of Cayenne and Voyage upon it. all the rest of the day and the night in rowing along the Coast, which [Page 83] is very pleasant; and there are a thousand several sorts of Birds making such a noise, that it is a very dreadful thing to hear them.
There is in every place a great number of Flies, like unto a sort of Gnats, which are very troublesome, and tormented us mightily both night and day, but especially in the night time. The next morning we arrived at the end of this River, seeing a violent Stream that descended from a Mountain into a Valley, where it is below like a Lake, then comes to pass upon a Rock very flat and broad, and from thence falleth down as into a hollow Ditch, which groweth wider by little and little, until it casteth it self into the Sea; the Tide comes up to the place where it beginneth to fall. We found no great matter in this Voyage, except several sorts of strange Creatures, and Indian-Hens of another sort than those of our Europe: The old ones carry their young, and would not fly away, seeing us, but were very tame. These Hens have Feathers upon their Heads which are black and very beautiful, and like [Page 84] to those of a Heron. We carried some of them to our Ship, but we could not preserve them all until we came into France.
In short, we found all this Coast Desart; and being returned on Board, we told what we had seen in this Voyage: Our General sent us again to discover another River, which separates it self from that of Cayenne, and runs towards the South-East.
We prepared our Boat, with some Indians, thinking it had not been very far off, or else not well understanding our Interpreters, insomuch that we took not Victuals enough with us, only I furnished my self with some Bisquet, acd gave of it to one of our Indians, who was very glad of this Provision that I had made.
Having then Rowed a good way up into this River, we found nothing but Branches of Trees, which covered in a manner all the passage, so that we were forced ever and anon to lie all along in the Boat, to pass underneath these Branches of Trees, which were laded with Oysters. At last we came to a certain place where [Page 85] there were Trees cut down by the People of some Ships that had been there before us. These were exceeding Red-Wood. great, and the Heart very red like unto Brasil, yet it was not so as I have experienced it.
Moreover, the Indian whom I had given the Bisquet to, did not mind to follow our Men, but sought for something to live upon, and came again presently towards me, shewing me by Signs, he had found something good for us, and went to find out the Wooden-Bowl of the Boat, which served only to cast out the Water; so led only me along with him, a good way into the Wood, to a Tree cut down, which was hollow, and had in it a Bee-Hive, the most excellent, clear, sweet and agreeable that could be imagined. This Honey was of a Jelly, like Oil, and exceeding clear, of a greenish colour, and enclosed in Bags, like those great Purses the Merchants use, wherein there is several little Leather ones. There the Honey is environ'd with a Membrane or Skin, which is the Crisis, very clear: When this little Skin is broke, the Honey [Page 86] comes out of this only, and not the others; so the Indian broke one after another, throwing the Honey into the Bowl, which he gave me to drink of as a choice Liquor.
Having taken some of it in this manner, he went to look for Water to mix with it, to the end that we might have the more of it, as also to quench our Thirst the better.
In the mean time our Companions were in another place, on the other side of this Wood, seeking for the Brasil-Trees. I saved some of this Honey in the Bowl, not having elsewhere to put it: But our Thirsty People returning▪ from this Wood, and taking the Bowl to Drink, mixed Water with the Honey, and so drank it up; which caused me to Quarrel with out Carpenter who had done it on purpose, like a Man of his Country, where they are born to Envy and Malice. I bore the loss of this Honey, so excellent, as patiently as possibly I could, because our Lieutenant was there, who had not a mind to do what this bold Carpenter did, but [Page 87] had taken Water with his Hand out of the River to Drink.
I could never since find any more of this sweet Liquor, by whatever Signs I could make to the King of the Caribes, to cause him to understand what it was; for he did not know the name of it. But what I wondered at most, was, that this Indian could so easily find out this Honey in these Woods, seperating himself from the others for that reason. If I could have saved only 3 or 4 Ounces of it, I would not have parted with it for any thing whatsomever, but would preciously have preserved it, to make a Present thereof to the late King my dear Master; as I gave him some of that which I brought from Africa, which he found of an excellent Taste, Honey of Africa. and caused me to lay it carefully up in his Trunk, as they do in the same Country from whence I had brought it. This Honey of Africa was as white as Snow, clear, and of an excellent good Taste; also the King confessed, that he had never before seen any so excellent: But that was but course Honey in comparison to [Page 88] this of the Country of the Caribes. The Bees which make this Honey in the West-Indians, are of a pale and yellowish colour, little and harmless, and are not troublesome at all, as I found out in the place whence I took this Honey, which was like to a most precious Balm, and I believe, that as the Honey of Africa is excellent for Healing of Wounds, so this of the Indies quite exceeds it every way, as in its consistence, taste, smell and colour.
Being then returned from this River, where we could discover nothing to serve our turn, our General was resolved to send me vvith the King Another Voyage to the Caribes. of the Caribes, to go to their Habitations, and look in the Woods, to see if vve could there find a certain Tree, vvhich is a sort of Wood of Aloes, Aloes Wood. called by them Apariebou, for vve had found of it in the Country of Yaposo. For this effect, I parted the 29th of April, vvith Cam [...]ria, the King of the Caribes, vvho had left in Hostage for me 7 or 8 of his Indians, and Embarked in a Cannoe, with vvhich vve entered into a little River, vvhich [Page 89] runs about two Leagues up into the Country, and was very narrow, the Branches of Trees quite covering it, so that we had a thousand Inconveniencies, and much ado to lie flat down in the Boat to avoid 'em. The Indians being stark Naked did not matter it so much; for if these Branches had made them tumble into the River, they knew so well how to Swim, that they would not have much needed to fear: That which did us the most harm, was, that some of these Branches were laden with certain Oysters, little, and of the colour Oysters. of Pearls, of a very good Taste; for I was willing to try, opening some before these Indians, who wondered mightily to see me open 'em so easily, not knowing how to do it.
We went thus Rowing along to find out their Dwellings, that at last coming to the end of the River, we went on Shore, and about a League and a half from thence, we saw one of their Habitations, and the Caribes came about us, offering to their King, Fruit, and other Things to Eat, with which he also presented me▪ After [Page 90] that, we left this Habitation and continued our way towards that of Camaria: When we were come to the foot of a Mountain, this King fell a crying out as loud as he could, and desired me also to do the like, which I did, and I believe that it was to call home all those who were about the Woods, because thereupon they presently returned to the Habitation; for I saw them run from all parts to their place, which was in a Valley, where being come, I found a great number of Caribes, Men and Women; amongst the [...] King of the [...]. others, the Wife of Camaria, who was making an Amica or Bed of Cotton. All these Indians, Men and Women, naked as they were, came running to see me and my Companion, a young Carpenter of our Ship, who was under a mortal apprehension that they would Eat him, desiring me mightily to give them something of that which I had brought to exchange with them▪ Then I commanded them to make Ovato Courende, which is to say, a good Fire, because we had been Wet with the Rain, by the way, which the Indians did not much matter, being [Page 91] not much▪ troubled to dry their own Cloaths: They presently made me a a Fire, it being very late at night, so that we were pretty well dried in this great Hall where all these Indians were; and thus we Supped with the King and his Wife, in the sight of all the others: They made mighty much of us with their Savage Victuals. I had brought a Bottle of Wine and some Bisquet with me, which was no small help to us, after so many Fatigues by the way, troublesome with Water and Woods, where sometimes the Indians were forced to carry me upon their Backs in certain places that were very hollow.
After Supper, the King caused us Amacas or Hanging Beds. to retire into his House, where he ordered two Amica's or Beds to be hung up for me and my Companion. They had put my Bed so, that it joyned to the King's, and my Companion's a little higher; and that of the Queen's was on the same side with the King's; and all the night there was Guards which kept a Fire near the King and me. Our poor Carpenter did nothing else but tremble all the night long, [Page 92] thinking every moment they were coming to Eat us.
The King Camaria in the mean King Camaria. time began to discourse with me of the King of Yapoco, whom he said he did not fear, and who had come up into one of his Rivers, where he had killed a great number of his People; but that he desired mightily, (if it was possible) to have in his Clutches, his Nephew Yapoco, who was in our Ship, and that I should speak thereof to our General, and use my utmost Policy and Endeavour to have him delivered up, that he might be Eaten, saying that he would send for all his Subjects and his Friends to be at this Feast of the Caripou.
As for my part, when he talked to me after this manner, I would not contradict him, but gave him the hearing, and promised, if I could, to do all he desired: And he told me that he would willingly give all he had to have this poor Yapoco, and that I would take care to have him delivered up, which I durst not refuse him.
I thought this Night very long, seeing also that the Queen, Wife of [Page 93] Camaria did not sleep. I rose up two or three times to go out of the House, continually suspecting the Malice and Cruelty of these Anthropaphages, and Anthropophages, or Cannibals. Eaters of Human Flesh: Besides that, I perceived in the middle of this House, a Toad of the strange and Wonderful Toad. most horrible bigness that ever I saw; and I believe that it was rather some Devil than a Toad, because Camaria Caribes speak with the Devil. often spoke with the Devil, to know what their Enemies were doing.
As soon as it was day, I presently rose up to know what we had to do, and Camaria shewed me his Throat, which was very much out of order by a Cold that he had.
I carried him with me into the Woods to seek for Herbs fit for his Disease, and used my utmost to procure some Honey to compose a Remedy for him; but he could neither understand me, or comprehend what I demanded of him. At last, having Breakfasted, we went along with some Indians to look for Wood of Aloes. This is a Tree of an extraordinary bigness, bearing Leaves like a Fig-Tree, but a little greener: The Tree contains in [Page 94] its Heart a black Wood, very oiley, sharp, and of a very good Odour; And a Tree as big as a Tunn shall have in its Heart but a very little quantity of this black Wood. This Tree is very hard, and where it is black, 'twill sink to the bottom of Water like a Stone. We laded thereof about 35 Tuns, which are 70000 pound weight or thereabouts. We laded Store of 2 or 3 other sorts of Wood, one resembling a Red-Sandal, and the other a Cittern, and partly of the same Odour. It is of a very sweet Scent when first cut, but by succession of time it comes to lose its Odour. I have learnt that this black Wood is certainly a sort of Wood of Aloes, but not so sweet-scented as that of the East Indies, because it comes so far upon the Sea, receiving thereby a certain Saltish quality. But at such time as I was at Goa, being in an Ensarail where the Idolaters Work, I there saw some Wood of Aloes of the River of Ganges, which was sweet, and had almost the same qualities as that of the West, as I since found out by curious Virtue of the Wood of Aloes. Experience. The Gentiles told me [Page 95] that this Wood was very excellent and odoriferous, and neither Rotten nor Worm-eaten, and was chiefly a good Remedy for the Head-Ach, or the Ague. For the Head-Ach, you must rub this Wood against a flat Marble, agitating it with Rose-Water, or common; then rub the Forehead therewith. And for the Ague, drink Water thus agitated, taking 2 or 3 Ounces. This Virtue is not found in that Wood of Aloes which is brought us, because it is quite Rotten and Worm-eaten, having in it no other Virtue but for the Perfumes, and very little for Medicine; So that I advise all curious Apothecaries to chuse for the good and right Wood of Aloes, True Wood of Aloes. which is sharp, joined with a certain bitterness. As for the colour, the best is that which is black, enclined to grey with Veins, very hard and ponderous, rendering a sweet-scent in the burning, and above all very Gummy. These are the marks of the best as far as I could take notice of in my Travels. I know very well that the price thereof is a little high, and that is the reason why it is so [Page 96] seldom kept in Shops, where they have instead thereof the Sandal-Cittern, which is of a quite contrary Faculty and Vertue: And so likewise of the Turbit Which is a Root., of which they chuse more of that which is white, light and falling to Powder in the breaking, (than the grey) which is of a sweet scent, gummy and heavy, which is the good and right, as I have seen at Goa, where they gather it. The Indians themselves never make use of any other sort than the grey inclining to white; but one Dram of that will make more in effect than three of the other; and I believe that this white is not the right Turbit, never having seen any such in the Indies, but that it rather comes from Persia, because 'tis brought from Aleppo and Alexandria by the Caravans which come from Babilon. Thus much can I say at present of the right Turbit. As for the rest, the Indians call this Wood of Aloes Aupariebou.
[Page 97] We gathered then together, in the River of Cayenne, store of this Wood of Aloes, which was very good and excellent: but the quantity that hath been found thereof, greater than has been hitherto seen, hath been the cause that it is not so much esteemed as formerly; yet nevertheless the able and learned Apothecaries of Tours, Poitiers, Angiers, Rochelle, and other Cities, have bought it of me at ten, fifteen, and twenty Sols the Ounce. I believe that if this Wood of Aloes of the West was dryed and cut twenty or thirty years, like that of the Ganges, where the best grows, that it would very much resemble it in Virtue, Colour, and Odour: But in regard I brought it green as it was, the ignorant Apothecaries thought it was not the right Wood of Aloes.
But to return to this River of Cayenne, there is, in the middle of it, a little Island, about 100 Paces in compass, where a great number of Birds, from all parts thereabouts, come to [Page 98] take their rest at night; and amongst others, some of those beautiful Birds have Carnation Feathers quite to the Bill: and having a mind to carry some of them alive with me into France, I strewed Bird-lime all over this little Island, (for I had brought 9 or 10 Pounds of it from France) and the next day some of our Men went there, who found a great number of them taken; But as the ill fortune would have it, they tarried not till I could see them, (for I was then in the Ship) but Eat them all up, like Gluttons as they were, which I was mightily vexed at.
These Birds are of the bigness of a Crane, and are at first of a Dove colour, then in growing, change by little and little into a Carnation: The Indians make their Garments of them, and Crowns of Feathers for their Heads: And it is a fine sight to see them thus array'd, painting also their Bodies with Zinzolin, or Red the colour of the Indians. a reddish colour, which is that they use to Paint themselves withall: This is made of a little Seed inclosed in a Vessel of the Fashion of [Page 99] Alquequangi, a little Plant which grows commonly in the Vinyards; They are called Coquelourdes, and are filled full with these little red Seeds, wherewith they Paint themselves.
In the mean time, we set these Caribes to work, and employed them in looking out the Wood of Aloes, and gave them a Hatchet or Bill for a piece or two of this Wood; and when they had prepared a piece, they came to give me notice of it, to know if it was neat, and peeled of from the white Wood which is round about it, and hath in it neither Force nor Virtue.
They set several Men to trail a piece of this Wood to the Sea side; for it is very heavy: Then they chose which they liked best, a Hatchet or a Bill, to exchange for their Wood. I saw one of these Caribes, who was mightily puzzel'd, and in great doubt, which of the two he should chuse, and was a long time considering and pausing with himself which would be the most necessary for him; at last, [Page 100] after having well considered and bethought himself, he took the Hatchet, seeing he who gave it him began to be angry for his standing so long about it. They brought us also, to Sell, an abundance of Fruits, as Anano's and Plantins, which are long Figs, and as big as a Cervela, with Patato's, and other Things good to Eat; Also some Cervelas. Crocodiles, and a sort of an Animal, armed with a Coat, which the Spaniards call, Armadille. I made the Armadille Dissection of a Crocodile, and Eat some of it's Flesh, which is pretty good, only it is a little sweet and unsavory, though I had well Salted and Spiced it.
I had also in exchange, of them▪ another sort of a Creature, which is a kind of an Ape or Marmot, but Apis. more Arch and Roguish, and with a very long Tail.
The Indians say that this Beast carries her young ones upon her Back when she has cast them out of her Belly, and goes jumping from Tree to Tree with them upon her Reins; [Page 101] and when any one of them is ready to fall, she holds them up with her Tail.
This Animal makes such a noise about the Woods, that when they are together tho' never so few, you would say there were a hundred Hogs a killing.
That which I bought was Dead, and cost me a little Horn: It was a Female, having two Teats in the Stomach like a Woman. The Indians had taken it with the Bow, and it had a stroke with an Arrow in the Belly, and carried one of her young ones upon her Back; which they brought us to Sell for a Hatchet. This little one, being in our Ship, howled after such manner, that it made us all quite Deaf; it died afterward, for it would not Eat.
There happened to be a Monkey at that time in our Ship, and this Creature catching fast hold about its middle, griped it so hard, that the poor Monkey could not shake it off, running about the Cordage from one side to another, and endeavouring with his Paws to make her fall, but in vain.
[Page 102] We had another Animal, the strangest that can be imagined; for it had a very long Beard, the Head set up very high, and the Legs very long, with three Paws behind and two before: It kept it self continually in a Ball, not being able to stand upon its Legs. We tied a Rope cross the Ship, and then put this Beast upon it, but she continued always in a round▪ like a Ball. That which was given it to Eat, she took in her Paw like a Monkey, and so put it in her Mouth. We had many strange Creatures, which it would be too long and tedious, to give a particular account of.
I return then to some Manners and Fashions that I have observed amongst these Caribes. A little before our departure from this River of Cayenne, we saw one day these Caribes, leading a new Bride about the Manner of the Caribes in their Marriages. Woods with a very great noise, and pursued and killed all that they found about the Forest. Then they came to the Sea side to see our Vessels.
[Page 103] These are People of a very good Stature, and Plump. They sat down upon the Bank of the River to view our Ship at their leisure▪ This Bride was there, all alone, with a company of these Savages, and having continued there some time to see us▪ with Admiration, she again rose up▪ then the others conducted her about the Woods as before: Thus they lead about their Wives▪ their Kindred, and Friends. As I kept Watch one night upon the Deck, I saw these Caribes upon a high Mountain keeping also Watch, and Sounding with a Horn very loud; then all the other Habitations answered, in the same manner, every hour of the night▪ After that they made a clear Fire, which they presently put out again▪ They do all this that they might be thought not to Sleep; for they mightily fear their Enemies the Caripous▪
Now our Ship being laden with Another Voyage of the Author. as many Commodities as we were well able to procure, and being ready to set Sail, I took a Resolution, the 17th of May, to go once again towards their Habitations with some [Page 104] small Ware, as Knives, Combs, and other Things; and gave all these to an Indian, to carry in a little Basket, who was wonderfully pleased to follow me; but he, being subtile and sly, would not march before me, saying, that it did not belong to him to go first; which made me not a little wonder that this Indian could know what Honour was due to another; But, the Rascal did it, that he might the more easily put his Hand into my Basket and sharp something out; I perceived it happily, turning my self about, and so caught him in the very act; upon which I shewed him gently that that was neither handsome nor well done: He excused himself as well as he could and then went before me until he found in the Wood a little Way or Path, on the right Hand, which went straight to his Habitation, and then he returned me my Basket, not being able to retain him for all I could do; I gave him a Comb, for his Labour, of which he was very glad. I do not know but that he had cast something aside of what he had taken out of my Basket.
[Page 105] I proceeded on my way untill I came to a high Mountain where there were, a great number of Caribes, with their Wives and Children: There by chance I found the Indian, our Interpreter, who helped me mightily in making my Bargains, for what I wanted, as well for Parrots as other kind of Animals. Having exchanged what I desir'd these Indians led me into another Habitation, where I saw, Yapoira, the Brother Caribe of Atupa who was in our Ship: He was upon Yapoira. the top of one of their Houses of Palm, and as soon as he perceiv'd me, he cast himself down, and came to embrace me, remembring that I had given him a Hatchet when he had broke his own in our Service.
He spoke to me of his Brother Atoupa and that his Mother had no more than this little Boy who was all her Comfort; That the Caripous had killed all his Brothers and Sisters, and that, if our General would let him return to his Mother, he himself was content to go with us into France. I told that he should go along with me, to make his Remonstrances, which [Page 106] he did: I asked him for some Water, which they call Tonna, and presently he caused his Wife to bring me some, who was of an extraordinary sweet Nature, and very handsome, though she was stark Naked: Having drank▪ they caused me to enter into a great Hall made of Palms, where they keep themselves in the day time, with their Amaca's, to hold Counsel concerning the Affairs of War. Then they led me into a certain House where there was a great many Women and Girls stark naked; and put some Patato's upon the Fire for me to Eat; and having made some exchange, as well▪ for Mace and Patato's, as Gums, which is a black Bitume which they Chaulk Gums. their Cannoes with, I laded 2 or 3 Indians, and so we returned, towards the Port, to our Ship. I had a great deal of trouble in returning back because these Savages led me through the Wood where there was a great many Waters to pass; besides it rained, and was very bad Weather. After we had gone 2 or 3 Leagues of this bad way, we came to the end of a little River, and found a Cannoe on [Page 107] Land that wanted only to be set a Float, but we had no Oars; yet these Indians looked so▪ long amongst the Herbs that at last they found out some that were hid. These Oars are very little, and like to a Battle-dore which they beat Hemp withall.
Being thus Embark'd, we Rowed so hard that we soon arrived at our Ship, where they waited for me with great earnestness, not knowing where I should be kept out so late, and they were to have set sail the next morning, as we did.
But before we come out of this Country, I will not forget, that amongst other Rarities that grow there, there are certain Gums to be found, called Copal, and Anime, and certain Animes Gums. Bitum, or black Gum, very Odoriferous when it is put upon the Fire; It is also good for the Rhume, by receiving the Smoak of it; the same is also the Anime, which is a Gum, yellow and transparent, like the Gums of Arabia, and is found in great Tears.
As for the Copal, it hath not this quality, but it serves for Swellings. Aposthumes, to ripen and heal them, so [Page 108] they come from a cold Cause and Phlegm. For, as for those which come from Heat and Blood, the Copal is not so proper to apply, being it is hot. This Copal is a White Gum, enclining to gray: The Tree which bears it is like to a Lawrel in its Leaves, but 'tis bigger in the Trunk, and hath also young ones. I picked out some of this Gum, by making an Incision in the Tree; then the next morning, or two days after, I found the Gum pure and clear upon the slit. The Anime is gotten after the same manner, and its Tree also resembles the other. As for the Bitum, or black Gum, it comes from a place where there are Springs of Water, and it is gathered, mixed with Earth at the foot of certain Trees amongst Green Moss. The Indians make use of it, instead of Pitch, to Chalk their Cannoes.
As for the Language of these People, I will only say, that it is of Language of the Caribes. several sorts; and that of the Caripous is something different from that which the Caribes speak, and have much ado to understand other, although they are [Page 109] not far distant. These Caribes were mighty desirous to know, of us, what it was that we Worshipped in Heaven; whether it was the Sun, which they call Occayou, or the Moon, which they name Nona, the Stars Cherica, Heaven Capa, the Clouds Canopa; as for the Fire, they call it Ovato, Water Tonna, the Sea Parano, the Woods Vropa, the Mouth Pota, the Eyes Onou, and the Hair Omchay.
Now as for the Religion of all these Religion of these People. People of Brasil, and amongst others the Caripous and Caribes, they live without Faith and Law, and without any certain Belief of a Divinity, true or false; not Worshipping Idols, nor any thing whatsoever: only they believe some kind of an Immortality of the Soul. They speak much of a God, which they call Toupan, which is some Caribes deal with the Devil Toupan. Devil with whom they have Familiarity, and exercise several sorts of Divination and Witchcraft: And I remember we were told that when Camaria, King of the Caribes, had a mind to know any thing concerning their Wars against their Enemies, he made made a hole in the Ground, pronouncing [Page 110] some certain Words, and then came something up with a horrible thundering noise, which spake to him, and instructed him, giving him notice what their Enemies were doing at that▪time. And indeed, when Camaria and his Brother Yago came on board our Ship, they told us, that they knew very well, that their Enemy Anacajoury, King of the Caripous, was preparing himself to come to attack them; that which he could not have known so readily but by such means.
But to return to the Caripou-Yapoco, of whom I have spoken before, that Yapoco. Camaria King of the Caribes had instantly desired me (being at his Habiration) to order the business so with our General that he might have him in his power, to Eat him in Revenge of the mischief that his Uncle Anacajoury had done them before: VVhen I was returned back to our Ship, I spoke to the General about it, who told me, that I did very well to promise, but he would take care to avoid such VVickedness: Thus Camaria was promised to have Yapoco given him, of which he was mighty Joyful, and sent [Page 111] about all his Country, to all his Friends and Confederates that they should prepare themselves to come to this Feast. The next morning hoising our Sails, and weighing Anchor to go away, presently comes Camaria with a great many Indians to have Yapoco, who being refused him in good earnest, went away so affronted and vexed that I had not a mind to return to be his Guest; for I believe they would have done the same to me they designed to do to the poor▪ Yapoco. This Camaria had but one Eye, and was mighty Crafty and Treacherous.
As for Yapoira, the Brother of Atoupa the Caribe, who had tarried all night in our Ship as I have said before: Atoupa did all that ever he could to persuade us to let go his Brother▪ but seeing he could not obtain that of our General, he said that he would also willingly go with us into France, and that he would either kill or drown himself rather than leave him. The General told him that he was content, and that he should come betimes in the morning, and whilst he was in such a good Humour: This being [Page 112] thus resolved upon, as soon as we began to set sail, we saw the Mother of these two Caribes, who came towards us in a Cannoe, crying and howling after the most pittiful manner that could be imagined; She brought along with her the Bow and Arrows, the Paintings and the Amica, of Yapoira, which is all their Wealth. Yapoira was mighty sorry to see his Mother keep such a mourning for him, and desired our General to give her a Hatchet, to appease her a little, which was done; yet she returned again thus Disconsolate.
After that we set sail the 18th of Departure from the Country of the Caribes. May, and passed by a little Island, very pleasant, near to the Coast of the Caribes, holding our Course to go to the Isle of Santea-Lucia, but we Santa-Lucia. were deceived by the Currents which come from the South-East, having made (according to the Estimation of our Pilot) in one night, above seventy Leagues, without scarce any Wind. We went to touch at the Isle of Tabuco, which remained Northwards of us. Tabaco Isle. Then, leaving the Isle de-la-Trinadad towards the South, we discovered Isle de la Trinadad [Page 113] the Testigues of the Isle Blanche, which Blanche-Isle. are 5 or 6 Peninsula's, very near to one another, and passed through the middle of them, then seeing Land of some places above: We were a long time considering if it was Land, or thick Clouds, because it was very low; and thereupon several Wagers were laid, whether it was Land or not: At last, bearing directly towards it, we found out that it was really Land, but unknown to us, since deceived by the Currents.
As we approached it, we saw Animals, running in great Companies Wild-Goats. along the Coast: Some of us not knowing what they were, said at first they were Bands or Cavalliers; but these Cavalliers proved to be Wild-Goats, of which this Isle is full: Taking down then our Sails very low we went as near to this Island as we could, our Patache going continually before to discover if there were any Rocks, as indeed we had gone directly upon one had not the Patache given us notice thereof with a signal at the end of a Pike, and took the way that she shewed us, leaving this Rock about [Page 114] a little Stones cast off us: It was not covered with above a Foot or two of Water, so that we going so swift with a light Gale of Wind, had without doubt split, and been all lost in such a place without help or succour; and besides, it being in the night; but God by his mercy preserved us there from; and being there was not much clear Water to be seen, we could not find the bottom to Anchor, but at last we found but 30 Fathoms of Water, where we cast Anchor for this night.
The next morning the 29th of May Voyage into the Isle. we caused our Boat to be Equipped to go on Shore, and to seek some Water: Our Men after Breakfast, went thus away, with their Muskets and Pikes, without the least drop of Water along with them; but they payed dear for it: For after having gone a good way up into this Island, with the heat of the Sun and running after the Goats, they were so wonderful dry and thirsty that, they thought, they should all have Died for want of a little Water; and returning again with great Trouble and Fatigue, they were forced to carry the weakest upon their Shoulders: [Page 115] They brought along with them a great many Pelicans, and coming confusedly one after another very weak and discomforted, and not minding any thing but Drinking; and then our General's Brother of Friendship coming on board our Ship, said aloud, that they looked for Pearls, but he had rather have a Barrel of Water, than of Pearls, for the great Thirst that he had endured with the rest.
The next morning we went (sixteen The Author visites the Isle. Men) to discover the other side of the Island, and if there was any Water; and coming on Land we saw before us a great number of Wild-goats, who came running along the Sea side, and began to enter into a Valley, where we with Harquebuss and Musket killed five or six upon the place. These Creatures, not being used to be Hunted after this manner, made a horrible noise and bellowing; and though they were Shot quit through the Body, yet they did not fall for that, but fled away with a light pace. We left there a Man to order these we had killed. I never thought then to look for the Besoart-Stone, which these Besoart-Stone. [Page 116] Beasts carry in their Ventricle, but to follow the others about this Isle to find out Water, and some curious Things.
We went thus three or four Leagues without finding any Water, at which our Companions were mightily astonished, and deceived as well as those the day before: For we had nothing at all to quench our Thirst, amidst such excessive heat of the Sun: As for me, I had carried in my Pocket a Coco's or Palm-Nut, full of Liquor, which was no small help to me at this time, and I believe without that, I should had much ado to have returned. Our Carpenter was forced to stay behind, earnestly desiring me to tarry with him; But it was not my intention to lie in these Desarts; besides, the Ship was to set Sail the next morning, which gave me the more courage to return the same day. After having thus rambled about, and run from one side to the other, at last we came under a great Tree, where we sat down in the Shade to take our rest. And as it is certain that there is no better Remedy to quench the Thirst [Page 117] than Sleeping, all our Men who were a little harrassed and fatigued, as much with Thirst, as by the way, and having run after the A sort of Spanish Kid. Cabrettes, fell presently a Sleep: But I not being at all sleepy, laid down upon my Back, with my Face upwards to suck in the Air; and upon this I espied a great Lizard, full and very high, the Tail very long, and about the bigness of a Cat; I Hunting of the Lizards presently rose up without awakening our Men, and having taken a Pike, I gave the branch of the Tree therewith such a blow, that there tumbled down two of them, which the Indians call Gouyana's. I run after them Guyana's or Lizards. trailing along my Pike, which broke in two pieces, and made such haste that I overtook one which was creeping under a Rock, and I took it by the Tail, plucking it with all my force; but it being very strong, stretched it self in such a manner against me, having very long Paws, that it saved its Body, but the Tail remained in my Hands, and was alive above three hours after, continually moving. As soon as our Men were awake, I gave them an account of what had happened, [Page 118] and made so many Courses about this Island, that I caught two of these Lizards, whereof I made very good chear, for the Flesh thereof is pretty good; I kept their Skins to carry away with me. This Creature is of a very hard Life, for after having taken, and leaving them for Dead, yet they from time to time come to move and start up, so that carrying them in a Napkin, I thought to let them fall every moment. After we had reposed our selves a little under this Tree, we took our way towards the other side of the Sea, finding a little beaten Path which went towards these Cabrettes, thinking that it was the way, where they went to look for Water to Drink; but after having gone about a League of this way, we found in a flat ground, a great place where these Cabrettes came to take their rest, for the place was mightily beaten. We saw there another Path which went from this place; and hoping that it would lead us to some Water, we found it brought us to the Sea-side, where we saw some Sea-Water upon a Rock, which was [Page 119] high and flat; it made us glad, thinking it had been fresh, but tasting of it we found the contrary, and that it was nothing but the Waves of the Sea which broke against this Rock, where there always remains some little of it, besides the Sun had Congeled it into Salt exceeding clear and pure. Seeing then that we found no Water, it behoved us (tho' with great regret) to take again the way to our Ship, each one seeking the nearest he could, for we went confusedly, striving who might arrive first to quench his Thirst; but the allowance we had was not sufficient, not being more than a little Cupfull of Drink, which was sower Citter, with two parts Water, but some had provided Liquor for themselves.
I arrived the third at the Ship, and Bathed my Body in the Sea to refresh my self, sopping also a little Bisket in the Sea to Eat, and swallowing some Mouth-fulls thereof. The rest of our Men were tarried behind, and being come there with the Fleming and Scotchman, we called the Boat: But the Ship being above a League and a [Page 120] half from Land, which was a great hinderance to us; for the Boat would not carry us back without the others, who were still far enough off, and kept one another up by the Arms; But at last I persuaded the Mariners to carry me on Board, where, as soon as I came, I went to visit my Chest and my Bottle, and remained full three days without being able to quench my Thirst: The rest of our Men returned very late, and were wonderful weary and fatigued; But the poor Carpenter tarried behind to keep company with the Cabrettes, Lizards, and Parrots, who were there in abundance, and very beautiful. Our General seeing that he was wanting, said, he would not part from the Road until he had News of him; and sent Seamen all the Night, with the Trumpet Adventures of the Carpenter. to Sound all about the Island to call him, but all to no purpose, for he was far enough from thence. The morning being come, his Seamen was commanded to take a Shovel, with other Mariners who knew pretty nigh the place where they had left him, and went thus seeking about these Desarts, [Page 121] (for it is a flat Island having very few Trees:) At last they found him trailing along his Musket as well as he could; for he was very Sick, and being come to the Ship, he was taken with a Fever, accompanied with a Frenzie, continuing 3 or 4 days, and did nothing but cry out for Drink, and it was almost impossible to satisfie him: He told us afterwards how he had lain under a Tree quite full of Parrots, which he could easily take with his Hand; and that the Cabrettes came to smell upon him in the night time; but that he never stirred from his Musket which he always kept close by him: The moisture of the night had a little quenched his Thirst; He was also forced to Drink his own Water.
Being parted from this Isle the first of June, to go to the Margueritta, as we were under Sail very late at night, we descry'd two Ships coming full sail upon us. We had sunk our Patache in this Desart Island. We got the Wind a little upon them, and being very near one to the other, their Trumpets began to Sound, and ours [Page 122] to answer them. As we were prepared to receive them, having put out our Cannons, and ready to come to handy Strokes, the Wind being very savourable for us, and the night very dark, they would not come on board without having first known who we were. We got the Wind of them as much as we could, and in the end, during the dark and stormy night, we escaped, and made towards the Isle of Margueritta, where we arrived the next day towards the Evening, and cast Marguerite Island. Anchor near to a little Habitation on the East-side: Then we sent our Boat on Land, with Arms, to discover the place: They found Fire still in the Houses, but no Body within, all being fled into the Woods at the sight of us. We found a Cannoe, which came from Fishing of Pearls, not having any thing in it but Shells. The Master's Mate was sent to a rising Ground in the Island, to see if he could discover any thing: He espied 3 or 4 Blacks, who run away into the *Thorn-Bushes as soon as they saw him, and it was impossible to find [...]. them out, tho' very diligent search was [Page 123] made: We had a great mind to take some one of the Islanders to shew us the place where they Fish for Pearls, which is in certain places along by the Isle; but it was impossible to find any one of them.
The third of June in the night time we had so violent a Tempest, that our Ship was in danger to have run aground, but leaving an Anchor in the Sea to save the Ship, we were preserved from this imminent danger.
The fourth day of the same month, seeing we could not find any sweet Water, we weighed our Anchors and bore towards Cumana, and arriving 2 or 3 Leagues on this side, we perceiv'd Cumana. a Fleming Ship in a Bay or Gulf, lading with Bay-Salt, which is there in abundance: We cast Anchor on the Starboard-side of her, and put out our Boat into the Sea to Board them, and so to ask them where we might find some fresh Water. After having saluted us with their Cannon, they told us, that bearing towards the River of Cumana we should find some, and that we should by the way meet their Shalop, which they had sent there▪ [Page 124] which we did accordingly, but the Men therein would come near us by no means, they were so afraid needlesly. We continued our Course towards Cumana, where coming near the River, Extream Thirst. we espied along the Coast two Ships at Anchor, not knowing what they should be▪ Nevertheless we proceeded on, for it was necessary to have Water, and could not live without Drinking. We found that of these two Ships the [...]encounter with the English. one was a Fleming, and the other English: The Fleming Traffick'd there underhand with those of Cumana, where the Spaniards are; And the English Patache came there to seek some fresh Water for their Admiral, whom she had left along by the Margueritta [...]
After several Guns for Salutation, the English came on Board our Ship, Feasting our English Pilot and 5 or 6 others of their Countrymen which we had in our Ship.
Our Trumpeter shewed me their Strange History of [...]n English [...]. Pilot, and told me, that he some years before being in an English Vessel, as they were upon the Coasts of the West-Indies, towards St. John de Love, (the [Page 125] first place of the Indies to go to Mexico, where the Spaniards are, then their Sworn Enemies) a great Storm overtook them, which cast them upon the Coast, where they were all lost, except this Pilot, who saved himself by Swiming to Land, carrying with him a little Sea-Compass, and went thus wandring about to return by Land to the Newfound Countries: Upon that, he had found an Indian-Woman, of whom he was Enamoured, making her fine Promises by Signs, that he would Marry her; which she believed, and conducted him through these Desarts; where she shewed him the Fruit and Roots good to Eat, and served him for an Interpreter amongst the Indians, which he found, she telling them that it was her Husband. After having been thus 2 or 3 years continually wandering about, and that for above 800 Leagues, without any other Comfort but this Woman: At last they arrived at the Newfoundland, guiding himself by his Compass: They had a Child together; and found there an English Ship a Fishing: He was very glad to see himself escaped [Page 126] from so many Dangers, and gave these English an account of all hi [...] Adventures: They took him on Board their Vessel to make him good chear; but being ashamed to take along with him this Indian-Woman thus Naked, he left her on Land, without regarding her any more: But she seeing her self thus forsaken by him, whom she had so dearly Loved, and for whose sake she had abandonned her Country and Friends, and had so well guided and accompanied him through such places, where he would, without her, have been dead a thousand times▪ After having made some Lamentation, Strange and Cruel Acts of an [...]. full of Rage and Anger, she took her Child, and tearing it into two pieces, she cast the one half towards him into the Sea, as if she would say, that belonged to him, and was his part of it; and the other she carried away with her, returning back to the Mercy of Fortune, and full of Mourning and Discontent.
The Seamen who took this Pilot into their Boat, seeing this horrible and cruel Spectacle, asked him, why he had left this Woman; but he pretended [Page 127] she was a Savage, and that he did not now heed her; which was an extream Ingratitude and Wickedness in him: Hearing this, I could not look upon him, but always with Horrour and great Detestation.
After then that we had Feasted one another, the English Convoyed Water found. us to get some Water: All the night long, I went to Drink in full Streams, to compense the former Thirst I endur'd, filling the empty Vessels of my Chest for the time to come. In the morning before we set Sail, two Spaniards, with an Indian-Woman, came from Cumana, on Board, to exchange Pearls with some of our Merchandize, but we had nothing fit for them: We weighed then our Anchors, and took our Course the 5th of June, and repassing along by the Isle of Margueritta, and the White Island, we went to get out of the Channel by the Virginies: But having Virginia. seen there a great Ship at Anchor, we could not imagine what she should be, whether English or Spanish; we passed close by her, without perceiving any one upon the [Page 128] Deck; And bearing a little further, we perceived a great Ship, in form of a Galley, coming full sail upon us▪ We kept our selves to the Wind as much as we could, nevertheless we were prepared to receive them; but the night coming on, when they were near us, and at such time when we thought to come to handy-Blows, this great Ship that we had left at Anchor made a Fire on Land, which made them leave of Chasing us. We bore all night along by Portorico, and Portorico. the next day, at night, the 12th of July passed all the Island: We saw our selves at break of day out of the Channel, and very joyful that▪ we were in the Main-Sea, holding our Course about the height of the Isle of Bermuda. We had tarried a long time without making any way, because Bermude-Isle. of the Calms: And visiting our Bread, and finding it very short, we were forced to come to parting, and my part fell to about 8 or 10 pound, as well good as mouldy; But having a great many Parrots to feed, I was in perplexity what to do, being this Animal is very Gluttonous. [Page 129] At last, I was resolved to [...]kill the greediest, and Rost him, which I did, and Eat him up before I came to want more Bisquet. In the mean time, seeing the Wind was not favourable for us, we began already to Extream Council. hold Council; that if this Weather continued any longer, we should be constrained to cast Lots, who should Eat his Companion. We had in our Ship 3 or 4 Indians, who would have passed the first▪ But in the midst of these Perplexities, it pleased the Divine Goodness to visit us a little after St. John's Day, and to send us a fair Wind, which carried us to the Isle de Flores, one of the Asores, where we took a little Refreshment; but not being able to have as much as we desired, we crossed the Coast in waiting for the Wind; but as it came good in the night, we quitted the Isle, and happily took our Course as far as Con [...]ale in Britagne, where we arrived the 15th of August 1604. for which all Praise and Glory be to the Most High.
A Description of the following Cutts.
First, The manner of the Fights, betwixt the Caribes and the Caripous.
Secondly, The Indian Woman go thus about the Woods looking Fruits to Eat.
A Description of the following Cutts.
The First, How the Caripous are Euiqpped going to War against the Caribes.
How the Caribes take Fish.
The First The manner of the Dances of the Caribes.
Amazons going to the Wars.
A Description of the following Cutts.
The First, The manner of the Cannoes, or Boats, of the Caripous, and other Indians.
The Second, How the Caribes Roast, and Eat the Flesh of their Enemies.
A Description of the following Cutts.
The First, How the Caribes Eat the Flesh of the Caripous, and Feast together therewith.
The Second, Amaca's, or Hanging-Beds of the Caripous.
THE TRAVELS AND VOYAGES OF John Mocquet, INTO MOROCCO, And other Places of AFRICA.
BOOK III.
THE Voyage that I had made the former year to the West-Indies, had left me such a desire to see also the rest of the World, that I was resolved to go to the East-Indies, if I found any fit opportunity: For this effect, I parted from Paris the 12th of April 1605. and taking [Page 140] my way straight to Britagne, I went to Embark at St. Lezer, (St. Nazare) in a Ship of Poligain, where we were not above twenty Persons in all.
We were at the beginning of this Voyage so beaten with contrary Winds, that we were forced to the Coast of Galice, a little below Cape d [...] Vere. Having continued there for some time, we set sail with the Wind, and arrived at Lisbon in Portugal, at such time as they were Rejoycing for the Birth of an Infant of Spain; which was a very fine sight. For after having Rejoycing at Lisbon. a long time run the Bulls, according to their manner of Pastime, where there was a great many Horses maimed, and Cavalliers overturned Lamed. to the Ground, they laded a Bull with Crackers, but there was such a great number of them on him, that he fell down under the Burthen; and they were forced to fetch a strong Ox to carry them, and yet he stoop'd under so heavy a Load: These Crackers were fastened one to another, so that they covered all the Body of this Ox; then there was others tied to his Horns. When the Feast was ended, fire was [Page 141] put to these Crackers, and then you would have said, that the Ox flew in the Air, with such an Impetuosity, which looked like Lightning; for Ten Thousand Muskets would not have made so great a noise, each Cracker answering one another, so that the Ox remained quite roasted.
I made some stay at Lisbon, upon the hopes that I should, (as I have said) Dutch Army towards Lisbon. find passage to the East-Indies, if the Fleet had gone there that year: But as it was ready to part, the Dutch Fleet came to cast Anchor about the Bar of Lisbon, where they stayed a long time, waiting for the said Fleet; but the Portuguese were not so foolish as to venture out. After that, Don Louis Fajardo, General of the Army, knowing that the Hollanders were now retired, riged out a Fleet of 35 sail to follow after; and went a good way out into the Sea, sending a little Ship before, called the Pearl, (taken from the Rochellers) to discover'em; But this Vessel meeting with the Hollanders, was taken by them, and all the rest returned to the Haven of Lisbon without doing any thing. [Page 142] Having then lost this occasion of passing to the East-Indies at that time, I was resolved to go to Barbary, and for this Cause Embarked at Cascais, in a Vessel belonging to Captain Poul [...]t of Rochelle.
We bore South East, and passed Voyage into Barbary. along by Azamor, near to the City of Lions, which is a place ruined, having still very high Towers. On Wednesday the 8th day of the month, we cast Anchor in the Road of Saffy, Saffy. where I tarried some time without going on Shore at all: But Cidi-Hamet Talbe, or Secretary to the King of Morocco, Mulei-Boufairs being come to Saffy with his Almahalle, or Almahalle. little Army, to conduct the Caravan which was come to Morocco, and to reconduct the other, which was going there, he sell Sick; and having heard that there was a Tabibe, or a Physitian on board our Ship, he sent some Moors immediately to fetch me. I went with them on Land, not knowing what they would do with me; and coming there upon the Port, I found this Cidi-Hamet sitting with a great number of Moors along the [Page 143] Walls of the Castle; and as soon as he saw me, he rose up, and taking me by the Hand, led me into his Camp, which was without Saffy, into his Tent, being very fine, and curiously Embroidered with Figures, after the Moresque. There I found a Jew, which served for Interpreter in the Gemique, (which is Spanish or corrupted Portuguese) which I understood; and having discoursed with me about his Disease, I resolved upon that which I thought best for his Cure; and for this cause went on board our Ship to look for Drugs fit for this purpose.
In short, I Purged him so, that I caused him to Vomit up Worms like little Serpents; which made me not a little admire, for they were so very great, and long, that it was almost impossible to imagine that such odious and horrible things could be in Human Bodies: Since that, he was very well and was my great Friend; and he and his Alcades shewed me all the kindness imaginable: He gave me a Horse to go to Morocco, making very much of me by the way.
[Page 144] Thus we parted from Saffy to go to Morocco, the 28th of August, and went to pitch the Almahalle near to the Adouars or Tents of the Arabs, and went to see them with some Moors their Enemies. These Arabians caused us to enter into their Tents; then they put some Carpets▪ very thick and hairy upon the Ground for us to sit upon, and brought us some Camels Milk to Drink, with I don't know what other things: After that, we retired in the night to the Camp of the Moors, which was not very far from thence.
The next morning we raised our Tents, and went to pitch the Almahalle at the Duguele, were there is Water. The Arabians had made there a great many large and deep Ditches, which they call Matamores, in such manner that it is a very dreadful thing to look to the bottom of them: 'Tis there they find Water; in some of which there is some, in others none: And these Arabs come to look there for VVater, above 4 or 5 Leagues round about. From the Puquelle they come with their Camels, which [Page 145] they lade with this VVater, in Oudres, or Goat Skins. And when they have Reaped their Corn, they raise their Adouars, or Tents, and go away to some other place far distant from thence, leaving this Ground to lie waste a long time: Then afterwards, they return there again, laying their Houses and Husbandry, VVives and Arabians, and their manner of Living. Children, upon their Camels, like as the antient Nomades, and the Tartar Hordes, at this day, and go altogether in a Company, by Cabilles or Generations; so that if any one comes to strike one of their Generation, they think themselves all thereby injured, and presently Revenge it. There are some of these Cabilles who joyn themselves together to make VVar upon other Cabilles that are not their Friends: There are sometimes above Twelve thousand of a Cabille or Parentage: For they Marry one another like Cousins, and thus conserve the Memory of themselves. The most Ancient, and VVisest amongst them, they make Chief, and Obey him in all Things, and every where, as their own Father, with a wonderful [Page 146] Respect, as I have seen in their Alcayde-Abdassis, Captain of one of these Cabilles, which conducted us from Morocco to Saffy, to hinder those of his Cabille from doing us any prejudice, for he had taken us in his Custody upon his Head, having so promised it to the King of Morocco; forasmuch as his People held a good part of the way betwixt Morocco and Saffy.
But to return to our Voyage; the morning being come, we raised the Tents, and in waiting till the Camels were Laded, the Cavaliers, Moors and Arabians exercised themselves at the Lance: And there was, amongst others, a young Alcayde, who took his Course with his Lance against me, crying out to me in his Language, Senari Christian. Bara, bara, aben senari, which is to say, Guard thy self, thou Son of a Christian▪ I spurr'd then my Horse, which was a Barbe, very nimble, having two Pistols at my Saddle-bow, I ran at the Re-incountre with this Cavalier; but my Horse being strong in the Mouth, was very near Precipitating me to the bottom of these Matamores, or Pits of Matamores. [Page 147] Water, which I have spoken of; for the Mouth of them are hid amongst the Grass, and they are there in great numbers: But seeing my self almost upon the brink, and my Horse going to leap to the other side (which he could never have done without loosing us both:) I reined him so to the purpose, that if the Alcayde, which exercised with me, had▪ not also stopped, seeing me so near this Precipice, I had infallibly tumbled therein, but never come out again entirely; considering their great and horrible Depth.
When I saw my self delivered from this danger, I praised God, and retired as far as I could from thence, leaving these Moors to exercise by themselves, not knowing so well as they, where these Matamores are, so dangerous to those who are not aware of them.
After that we Travelled all the rest of this Day, and endured extream Heats until toward Evening, then we pitched our Tents along by some Water, where all these Arabs cast themselves to wash, and refresh 'em, at which I was not a little vexed, for [Page 148] I had a great mind to drink of this Water, all muddy and dirty as it was, and besides a little faltish, yet I was forced to Drink thereof. We pitched then in these Desarts, and the next Desarts without Waters. day, early in the Morning we departed, Travelling all the Day in the Heat of the Sun, the greatest that can be possibly imagined, in these Fields Scorched and Burnt, because of the Hot Winds which blew after such a manner, that we were ready to Die with Thirst: At last, we came into a Des [...]rt, where we were forced to look for Water a far off. There was there the Adouars of the Arabians, who Adouars. helped us to some Refreshments of water and Camels Milk, which is not very sweet, but of a strange tast to those who are not accustomed to it; but necessity makes every thing to seem Good, as I have often experienced in all my Voyages.
The next morning going on our way, we perceived several Arabs with their Camels laden with Corn, who came to joyn with us, to go to Morocco.
[Page 149] We met also great Numbers of Arabians on Horse-back with their Launces, who came about us to salute their chief Abdassis, and others of their kindred who were in our Company; I saw them come with great Humility to kiss the Hands of their General Abdassis who had Govern'd them a long time.
I went always in their Company, leaving the other Troops behind, for the desire I had, by following them, to get some Water of the Arabs their Friends, whom we found encamped in a Valley of the Desarts; for we went continually with so excessive a Heat, that I durst not so much as lift▪ up my Eyes▪ Going thus, we met at the bottom of a Mountain some Arabian Shepherds, who kept Flocks of Sheep, Goats, and Camels: We went with a number of Cavalliers towards them, to know where we might find some Water, but they would not shew us: Hereupon one of these Arabs, who came a long with us▪ commanded one of these Shephards to give him his Stick; and having it in his Hands, began to [Page 150] beat these poor Wretches with such Water [...] fury, that I was very sorry to see it, although I was also very Thirsty. This Savage Treatment made the Shepherds shew us where their Adouars were, about a League from thence; where we went with all diligence, and found there one of these Arabs, who came to fetch Water far from thence, in a Goat-Skin. This Water was very Salt and hot; yet every one of these Cavalliers cast themselves thereupon, for it was very little for so many Men. I obliged them so, with Money, that I obtained some of one of these Arabs where we were come. Truly it seemed, that they bereaved these poor▪ Wretches of their Lives in taking away their Water they come to look for so far, and besides there is but little to be found, the Weather being so excessive hot; for all their Matamores were dried up at that time.
Having a little refreshed our selves, we went to rejoyn the Camp of the Almahalle, and pitched our Tents near the River Tensif, a little days Journey from Morocco. We met a great Tensif [...]iver. [Page 151] many Arabians all on Horseback, with their Launces, who came about us, to Salute their General Abdassis, and others of their Friends, who were in our Company.
I saw them again come with great Humility to Kiss the Hands of this their Chief, Abdassis, as before. There we quenched our Thirst a little with this Water; though it was very hot. All the Land in these Countries is various, some part good, and others bad, but for the most part Incultivated, except that which is near some Water, which they Till. This River Tensif Breeds the most excellent Trouts of any in the World, being very little, and their Flesh red, but of an excellent Taste, and are mightily esteemed at Morocco.
The next morning, going a little Morocco. further, we discovered Morocco, in a great Campagne; and this City seems to be situated near to Mount Atlas Mountain. Atlas, though it is above 7 Leagues distant: VVe found by the way some Christians, who came about us.
[Page 152] These are People that Traffick there, and when they hear that any other Christians come with the Casile, they are very glad, and meet them by the way: They bring with them a little Mule laden with Victuals. Now the most part of the Christians of this Casile were English, Prisoners, with Irons upon their Feet, and had been English Prisoners at Morocco. Arrested at Saffy, upon the account of an Alcayde named Abdelacinthe, who was a Portuguese by▪ Nation, but a Renegado▪ And for his Capacity and VVorth, he had given him the Command of the Casile who returned from Morocco to Saffy, with about 500 Soldiers under his Charge.
Now it happened by chance, that Abdelacinthe, and [...] to him. Antonio de Soldaigne, and Petro Caesar, Portuguese Gentlemen, had been both taken at Tangier in Africa, and brought to Morocco, and being there detained Captives 13 or 14 years, until such time that they were Released by the Sieur de l' Isle, a Physitian, and at that time Agent there for King Henry the Great. As these two Portugueses were returning in liberty, this Alcayde, Abdelacinthe, had Negotiated with [Page 153] them to save himself in their Vessel wherein they were to Embark. For this cause, he went to Pitch his Almahalle towards the place where they come to take Water for the Ships, near to the Cape of Cantin; and being Cape of Cantin. there one night, he told his Men, that he had caused a Moorish-Woman to be brought him, with whom he desired to speak in Secret, a good way off from the Camp, and took none along with him but a Slave of his: When he was near to the Sea-side, he fired a Fuzee, which was the signal that he had given to those of the Ship. As soon as they heard this, presently the People of Boat (who were hid in the Bushes) came to seize upon his Person, and took him, and carried him away in their Vessel, by which means he saved himself. The Slave fled to the Almahalle, to give them notice of the taking of his Master, at which they were mightily astonished, and presently retired to Saffy: But as the People of an English Boat at the same time were come on Shore for some things they had then occasion for, they were Arrested, and had Irons [Page 154] clapt upon their Feet, as I saw them in the Castle of Saffy, in very poor Equipage, and were since carried to Morocco, where the Merchants paid for them, I don't know how many Ounces of Gold, which was very near the Ransom of the Alcayde Abdalacinthe who had escap'd: For those Kings will not loose any thing, it being the Custom at Marocco, that when a Slave runs away, all the others assemble together and pay for him, cautioning one another to go freely about Cautioning of the Slaves at Morocco. the City without Irons; which is meant of the poorer sort: But as for the Rich, they are put into the Sisane, which is the Kings great Prison, Sisane. where they are well guarded, as these two Portuguese Gentlemen vvere of vvhom I have already spoken.
To return to the Christians of Morocco, who met us by the way, they made us very good chear, in a Garden, along by a pleasant Water running some two Leagues from Morocco. The Almahalle entered not into Arrival at Morocco. Morocco this day, but I left it where it was pitched, and went to lie within the City, in the House of the Christians, [Page 155] paying for my entrance to the Talbe or Register; This was the 2d of September 1606. As soon as I was arrived, I failed not to go visit the Sieur de l'Isle, Physitian, who was lodged in a very fine House in the Juderie, or Jews-Place. The Sieur de l'Isle was a long time near to the Person of the King of Morocco, in Quality of an Agent, for our King Henry the Great; And there had been since sent the Sieur Hubert, the King's Physitian, in the room of the Sieur de l'Isle; Then both went into France, but since that, the said Sieur de l'Isle returned there again. The Sieur Hubert lived about a year at Morocco, practising Physick near the King, and there following his principal design, that is, the Learning the Arabick Tongue; so that since he rendered himself very expert therein, as he hath made publick Profession thereof at Paris it self, with great Solemnity: He contented himself to depart out of this Country more laden with Science and Arabick Books, than with Riches, or any Commodities, in which the Sieur de l'Isle was more happy than he.
[Page 156] Being then in the Juderie, I was there conducted by a Jew, who Cozened me of some Rials, giving me falsly to understand, that I was to pay some at the Door of this place, where we were to enter; and indeed he brought one, who came to demand it, and I was forced to Content them.
This Juderie, or Jews-Place, is above Juderie of Morocco. a good League from the Douane, where the Christians inhabit; and near the King's Palace; and is like a City by it self, encompassed with good Walls, having but one Gate guarded by the Moors: It may be as big as Meaux. There the Jews inhabit, to the number of above 4000, and pay Tribute: There is also some Christians; And in this place also live the Agents and Ambassadors of strange Princes: As for the rest of the Christians Trafficking, and others, they live in the Douane.
The City of Morocco is very great, Des [...]i [...]tion of the City of Morocco. and is much bigger than that at Paris which is called the City; being wonderful populous, containing above 400000 Inhabitants, of all sorts of Religions; and such Streets, that for the great multitude of People you can [Page 157] scarce oass along. The most part of the ordinary Houses there are low, little, and but badly built, with Earth and Lime: But the Houses of the Alcaydes, Lords, and other Persons of Quality, are great and high, built with Stone, environed with Walls, with a high Tower in the middle, to go take the fresh Air, and a great many little Windows and Wickets: The upperparts of the Houses are flat and in Cotees. The King's, Palace is built with little Stones, like in-laid work, and a great many Pillars of Marble, Fountains, and other Ornaments. Their Mosques in great number, well built with Marble, and covered on the top with Lead. There are a great many Halls, or Vaults, where the Merchants are, and amongst others, those which Sell the Alhec, or Clothes, like Brokers. There is also several Colleges where they teach Law. There is no River which passes by the City of Morocco, but a great many Water-Ditches, and Channels on Land to guide the Waters Water. which come in abundance from the Mountains of Atlas, partly from the Springs, and partly from the melted [Page 158] and make this Water run here and there for their Gardens and Fountains▪ They have also Wells and Cisterns▪ They serve themselves dexterously with this Water to sprinkle their Gardens and Land. Without the City▪ about the Fields, are a great number of Gardens, with all sorts of Fruits▪ and Vineyards, with Water; and a little Habitation to go recreate themselves: They keep their Slaves at work: All the Ground is very good and fertile, and the Seed presently ripens. The Mountains are on every side of the City, except on that towards Saffy, which is level. There are the Mountains of Draz towards Lybia, from whence comes the good Dates. There are no Trees in the Fields, except some Palms: All the Trees are in the Gardens, which are like unto Orchards.
As for Justice; there is in Morocco Justice. but one only Judge, which they call Haquin, who does ready Justice most commonly upon the place; and hath continually his Citeres, or Sergeants, on Foot, armed with Cudgels, and Alfanges, or Cimmeters; and as occasion requires, when it appears to be some [Page 159] notorious Offence, they Behead also upon the very place; for they who are offended, cry Quoavac, quovac, c. to the help of the King, in demanding Justice. The King, besides his ordinary Taxes, which he sends to gather about the Country by his Guards, and in the Mount Atlas by force of Arms▪ he takes also upon all Merchandizes and Traffick the Tenth part. The Women of Morocco are very beautiful and white; the others, who are of Quality, and who stir not much abroad, are more Tann'd and Sun-Burnt▪ Every one hath 2 or 3 Wives, and as many Concubines as they can keep, and give to these Concubines so much by the day, 2 or 3 Tomins to live upon; each Tomin worth half a Rial. The King hath four Wives, and Concubines without number, whom he keeps in his Seraglio, or Palace; and when he hath a mind to lie with any of them, he causes them all to come before him stark Naked; then he chooses her which pleases him best, for that time.
The Moors have but sew Houshold Goods, except some Alcatifs, or Carpets, upon which they Eat, and Lie, and [Page 160] have some Covers, and sleep very low: Very few have Couches and Linnen: The Jews have such Beds as we use.
As for Victuals, they are good and Victuals. cheap, and all, whether Flesh, Fish, Fruits and other things to Eat, are sold by weight, and the Pound. As for Flesh, 'tis Beef, Mutton, Poultry, Venison, which comes from the Mountains: Some Fish, as the excellen [...] Trouts which come from the Mountains of Atlas, and from the River Tensif: The Wines there are excellent, and wonderful strong, of which the Moors do not Drink, but only the Grapes. When a Moor makes himself drunk, at any Jews or Christians who sell the Wine, the Judge comes to Stave all the Vessels of Wine which are upon the Ground, and besides lays an Avarice, or fine upon the Master. Vintner. I will content my self to have said this little of several other things, which I could describe concerning this City and Country of Morocco, since they are so well known to every one; only, I will add to this, that about 6 Leagues from Morocco, near to Atlas, is a City called Angoumet, [Page 161] where are still to be seen a great Angoumet many ruinous Buildings of the Roman▪ and Antique Letters * half worn out: The City is little, and nothing but Ruins. The Moors say, that there is Interred some Holy Personage of the Antients, and for this Reason will not suffer the Christians to enter: And besides, in the Mountains of Atlas are certain People, which they call Brebbes, Brebb [...]. who cut their Cheeks in the manner of a Cross, and have a Language by themselves, besides the Arabick, and are very strong in these Mountains: They pay Tribute to the King of Morocco, who sends Forces to raise it. There is some signs that these People should be the relicts of the antient Africans▪ Inhabitants of the Country before the Arabian Saracens entered there; and that they retired there for security, being also in some manner Christians; but since, the society and imperiousness of the Arabians have corrupted them▪
As for the rest, when I arrived at Morocco the Affairs of the Country were thus; That Muley-Boufairs the then King of Morocco, one of the Sons [Page 162] of Maley-Hamet had War with his War betwixt the Che [...]ifs of Morocco. Brother Muley-Chec, and Muley-Abdalla his Nephew, and with Muley Zidan his other Brother: For all these three Brothers made cruel War upon one another for the Kingdom of Morocco. Now this Muley-Boufairs, trusting wholly upon his Bassa-Joda, lost all: For Muley-Abdalla, the Son of Muley-Chec King of Fez, won a Battle of his Uncle Boufairs, who sled in the night time to the Mountains of Atlas, in the House of the Alcayde of Asur, which is an exceeding strong Alcayde of Asur. Castle: But the Brebbes Robbed him, and did him a great deal of mischief before he could get conveniently there. After that, he sent some of the Alcaydes his great Favourites to go fetch his Wives and his Daughter, who brought along with them all his Treasure, but they were Robb'd before day, near to Angoumet, in a place where they had sat down to take a little rest from the fatigue of the way. The Brebbes had his Wives and Daughters at their pleasure, and carried his Daughter to Muley-Abdalla, because he desired her to Wife, though she was his Cousin. [Page 163] The Alcaydes or Conductors of these Women, seeing themselves thus Rob'd, and without any means to recover their loss, did enter themselves into an Asoy or Mosque to the Alforme, or Sanctuary, of a Saint Marabou. But Muley-Abdalla hearing of it, sent to fetch them out, with the Marabou also, who earnestly desired Abdalla to give them their Lives, which he promised to do; But before they arrived at his Micouart, or Palace, he commanded all their Heads to be chopped off; African Faith. which he sent to his Father at Fez, who was not so well pleased thereat as he expected, because he had deceived the Marabou. This was the State of the Affairs of these Princes.
Now, as I passed one day about the Alcasaue, which is the King's House, I saw a Cannon cast of a wonderful bigness; and being surprised at the greatness of the size, I was told that it had been made for a certain Alcayde, Story of an Alcayde. a great Favourite, who had a mind to betray a King of Morocco: But the King having discovered the Treason, by the means of one of his Letters; Hereupon, one day, without making [Page 164] shew of any thing, demanded (by way of question) of this Alcayde, if there was a Servant dearly Beloved of his Master, and nevertheless who sought to Kill, what such a Servant would deserve; The Alcayde presently answered, that he deserved to be put alive into a Cannon, and to be shot out like a Ball; to which the King replied, That he himself deserved Justice of a [...]raytor. the same Punishment; and thereupon shewin [...] him the Letter writ by his own Hand, the other remained all astonished and benummed; and then the King ordered this Cannon to be made, in which he commanded to be put this [...]lcayde, to fire him out as he himself had fore-judged by his own Mouth, according as the Treason deserved.
In the City of Morocco, there are a great number of Christian Captives, as well Men as Women, who are brought there to be sold from all Parts of Barbary: Now it happened upon a time that a Christian Maid, History of a Christian Maid and h [...]r Martyrdom. being Slave in a great House of the City, instructed a young Woman of the same House in the Christian Religion, [Page 165] teaching her secretly her Belief, insomuch that this Damsel engrafted so well the Law of the True God in her Heart, that it was impossible for her former Teachers to make her learn any more of the Alcoran, or Law of Mahomet, and kept her self constant in the Religion of the Slave, without going any more to the Mosque. The King being informed thereof, sent for this New Convert to come before him, and Threatning her, that if she would not renounce the Law of the Christians, he would put her to Death, She generously answered, that she did not fear Death; and that all the Torments of the World should not make her quit the Belief she had acquir'd. The King seeing this, commanded her to be put into the Hands of the Haquin, or great Judge, to be put to Death: But she being resolved not to make any shew that she feared Death, and about to be executed, the King asked her again if she would not be Converted to their Law again: But, she answered, that their Law signified nothing in reference to Salvation; and that she would Die for [Page 166] the Love of him who had suffered Death for us. When this barbarous King saw that all these Prayers and Remonstrances were in vain, he endeavoured once more to divert her from this Resolution, promising to Marry her to one of his highest Court Favourites; But she mocked the more at all his Promises; at which, the King being enraged, commanded her to be Beheaded, which was done accordingly. And thus Christianly, and constantly, this innocent and vertuous Damsel suffered Martyrdom.
Now as I curiously visited this City of Morocco, I entered one day into Kings-Palace. the Micouart, or Palace of the King, and saw in the first Court extraordinary fine Buildings A-la-Moresque, with Fountains, and a great many Orange and Lemon-Trees, laden with Fruit; But at the second Court, where I also entered, were little Galleries sustained with Pillars of White Marble, so well cut, and contrived, that the best Workmen would admire the Workman-ship thereof; and upon the Ground were a great number of Vessels of Marble, full of clear [Page 167] and fresh Water, where I saw the Moors wash themselves before their going to Rehearse their Sala or Prayers▪ But as soon as they espied me, they began to cry out, and run after me, which made me mend my pace in good earnest to get presently from thence. I saw in another Garden, a very fine Fish Pond of Stone Work, where the Moors Bath themselves, and found there some Moorish Women who were washing their [...]lquisayes or Vails, after that they had washed their Bodies.
After this I went to see the Lions, Lions. And the History of a Lion and a Dog. which were shut up in a great ruinous House, open at the top, and to be mounted one pair of Stairs; and saw there many remarkable things, but one more particularly, which was concerning a Dog, who had formerly been cast to the Lions for their Food; for one of the Lions (and the oldest of all the others who feared him) took this Dog that had been cast in under his Paws, as if he would have devoured him; but having a mind to play a little with him before, it happened that this Dog flattering the Lion, [Page 168] as knowing his Strength, began to scratch him gently with his Teeth upon a Scab which the Lion had upon his Throat; at which, the Lion took such pleasure, that he not only suffered the Dog patiently so to do, but also defended him from the others: So that when I saw him, he had been then seven years with these Lions, as the Christian Slave told me who look'd after them; and told me also, that when they gave the Lions any thing to Eat, the Dog fed with them, and would sometimes snatch the Meat from their very Chops; And when the Lions would fight together for their Food, the Dog did all he could to part them and when he saw he could not do it, by a Natural Instinct he began to howl after such a manner, that the Lions (who fear the cry of Dogs)▪ presently would part themselves, and agree together.
This example of Animals shews that we ought to be humble and obedient towards those who are greater than our selves, and how noble and generous the Lion is amongst other Beasts.
[Page 169] At my going from these Lions, I went to see the Kings Horses, who Horses. were in Stalls after their manner, and were fat, and extraordinary well Dress'd and clean Skin'd. They are Christian Slaves who look after them, and have a great, and lesser Stable also, well ordered that it is impossible for any to be better: They are all Barb-Horses, the finest in the World. After having walked enough about the City for this time, I returned back to the Douane, which is the place where the Christians are oblig'd to retire themselves, a good League from the Alcasave, or Palace Royal, which is near the Juderie.
I was there told a very pleasant History of a Son of the King of Morocco. History of a King of Morocco, who having upon a time sent one of his Sons with an Army to conquer the Kingdom of Gago, from whence comes the finest Gold. This young Prince having passed all the Desarts of Lybia with great Trouble and Fatigue, which both he and his Army there endured, as he approached the Country of Gago, this King, informed of his coming, went to meet him with a [Page 170] great Army of Blacks, and invested and encompassed him about, so that he could get neither backward nor forward; and besides, he was oppressed with two great Extremities, Hunger and Thirst; insomuch, that the most part of his Men were Sick, and knew not what to do in such an extremity: For, to continue there, they must all Die with Hunger, or yield themselves Victims to their Enemies Malice; and to return, or to pass on, they must give Battel; and his Men were so weak, as well by the fatigue of the way, by the Desart, as for want of Victuals. Now as this Prince of Morocco was in this perplexity in his Tent, it happened that two of his Soldiers were playing at Chess in their Tent, and one of them found himself so much engaged, that he could not make his King go either backward or forward, he being under Check; upon which his Companion, Laughing, said, he was like their Prince, who could neither advance nor retire without exposing himself to great danger: As he was saying these Words, it happened that one of the Prince's Favourites, [Page 171] passing by chance near this Tent, overheard them, and went presently away to give his Master an account of this Discourse, who, hearing it, sent at that instant to fetch these two Soldiers before him, who were mightily astonished; and having enquired several things of them, and particularly of that which they had done and said; At last, seeing themselves urged, they confessed the truth, and prostrating themselves upon the Ground, they begged his Pardon, which the Prince did easily consent to, and demanded of him, who had said thus, what he would advise him to do in such an extremity: The Soldier wisely answered, that if he would take his Advice, he should not only save himself and his Men, but should also come of with great Honour, if the thing which he had contrived in his Mind took effect. The Prince Commanded him to say boldly what he would; upon which the Soldier proceeded, and said, that the King of Gago had a Beautiful Daughter to Marry, and that he, who was a young Prince, and wanted a Wife, should send Ambassadors [Page 172] to this King to let him understand that he was not come into his Country with intention to make War upon him, but only to demand his Daughter in Marriage, of whom he had heard many Perfections and excellent Qualities reported. The Prince found this Counsel so good, and so much to the purpose, that he presently dispatches Ambassadors to this King, upon this account, who were very well received, according to their Ambassage, and the Peace made accordingly; The Marriage was agreed upon by this means, and Consummated with great Triumphing A-la-Moresque. The Prince receiv'd from his Father-in▪Law, the King of Gago, several curious and rich Presents, amongst others three Balls of Gold, hollow within, weighing in all 750 pounds, and are all three of a wonderful bigness, but proportionably one a little less than the other, and are to be seen to this day in the Alcasave, or Palace at Morocco, upon the top of a high Tower, being all three fastened upon a Bar, the greatest at the bottom▪ and so mounting, the least at top: When the Sun shines they [Page 173] cast a Reflex at a great distance, as I observed in my coming to Morocco: In the Wars they have fired several shots of Musquet at them, but without any prejudice. Thus the Counsel of this Soldier took happy effect, and since that time, the Kingdom of Gago, (of which this Daughter was Heiress) fell to the Kings of Morocco, who send there to fetch their Gold. After having returned from my Voyage, one day as I was at Dinner with the late King Henry the Great, who had taken Physick that day, and was in his morning Gown in his Closet, I was desiring his Majesty to grant me liberty to go to the East-Indies, he thereupon came to speak of the play at Chess, and how that two of the Grandees of his Court had been two days and two nights at playing a Game at Chess; upon which, the King discovering the cunning and subtility of this play, I took the boldness to relate to him this History of the Prince of Morocco, at which he was mightily pleased, and thought the Soldier's invention very much to be [...]pplauded: In short, all these Moors are great [Page 174] players at Chess, as I have observed Game of Chess amongst the Moors. amongst them. For at such time as I went to the Juderie, I found almost all those who kept the Door a playing at this Game, at which they are very subtile; and it is mighty diverting to them, in regard of their Melancholly Humour; which renders them very ingenious, and great lovers of sharp and subtile Tricks; as there was one day one of them, who made shew of Friendship to another, and gave him great store of Fruit upon a Carpet to Eat: But the other, who was thus Honoured, told him gently, give me not so much Meat, but thy Heart rather; which was to say Good-Will and Affection, for he well knew that he wished him no good in his Mind. This Story is said to be of the Alcayde Mummin.
After having continued for some time at Morocco, seeing that the Caravan The Authors return. was preparing to go away for Saffy, I endeavoured to obtain my Letter of Free passage of the Haquin, who is the great Justice there, to the Haquin. end that I might safely Embark, without any Let or Hindrance by those of [Page 175] Saffy. I payed then for my Entrance ond going out to the Talbes of the Talbes. Douane, who keep the Door, which is a right that every Christian who comes to Morocco is obliged to pay; And truly 'tis impossible ever to have done enough to satisfie these sort of People.
I parted then from Morocco the 22th of October, and went to pitch the Almahalle some 4▪ or 5 Leagues distant, in a Campagne, along by Mount [...]tlas; and being there, there were 3 or 4 Companies of us who went into the Adouars, or Tents of the Arabians, to furnish our selves with Fowls, Eggs, and other Victuals. But when we came there we perceived a great number of Cavalliers of the same [...]ation, running after one another, who drove away their Camels and other Beasts. The Wives of these Arabians took the Saddles of their Husbands Horses upon their Heads, and run to the place where their Horses were feeding: The Husbands, who were hard by at work, presently mounted on Horseback, and flew like lightning after their Enemies, with their Launces and other Instruments; [Page 176] and I believe that at last they recovered their own. These Women advised us to return with all speed to our Camp, for fear that these Arabs, their Enemies, should carry us away Captives; which we did, seeing all in an uproar and confusion, and the noise which they made amongst themselves: For it is a strange thing to see these People, who are all of the same War amongst the Arabians. Law and Nation, to make so frequent War upon one another.
But, amongst themselues, they observe this Rule and Discipline, that when the time comes for them to Sow their Land or to Reap their Corn, they make Peace; After that, they begin again to their Wars when their Corn is beaten, and laid up in their Matamores or Ditches in the Field, where they put it, then cover it with Planks, and above that with Earth, after such a manner that they can Till and Sow upon it▪ They lay up their Grain thus in the night, that none may see them▪ no not their very Wives nor their Children: Afterwards▪ if they happen to have occasion for any quantity of Corn, either to Sow, or [Page 177] to carry to sell at Morocco, they go and take it forth of this Magazine. This Corn is kept very well in the Ground, where it keeps dry a long time.
The 23th of the same month we went to pitch the Almahalle close by Mount Atlas, in a level ground, in which place I went to look for some Plants and Herbs, and as I returned again into the Camp, the Alcayde Abdassis, Captain of a Cabille of Arabians, perceived me, and called me to him, asking me what Herbs these were that I carried, and what I intended to do with them; after I had satisfied his Demands, I withdrew into our Tent: About 4 or 5 a clock in the evening, going out to walk and to take the fresh Air, I met again with the Alcayde, who was also walking about to visit his Camp; and having called me, took me by the Hand, and led me without the Camp, giving me account of several things of the Wars of Africa, and History of the Battle of Don Sebastian of Portugal. concerning the Battle of Don Sebastian, King of Portugal, at which time he was a young Man, it being 35 years since: He told me amongst other things, how the Christians at that time [Page 178] were reserved to extirpate them: But that they who were before at Wars amongst themselves, (tho of one Faith) had made Peace together, to the end that they might the better defend themselves against the Christians, and went to meet the Christians towards the City of Tangier, which belonged to the Portugals, That there they resolved to venter Battle with Don Sebastian, who was accompanied with a Moorish King, who was a near Kinsman to the Kings of Morocco, and who was said to be the lawful King, and that the others had Usurped upon his Prerogative. As these two Armies were in Battalia near by one another, the Christians made no shew of attacking the first, but kept themselves as on the Defensive; they on the contrary were all in the Action, continually exercising themselves at the Launce, one against another; and seeing that the Christians did not stir, they came furiously to attack them; but having been beat back at the beginning, they betook themselves to flight, and the Christians pursued them, in such disorder and confusion, that thinking themselves [Page 179] too sure of Victory, the Moors thereupon Rallying upon these disorderly pursuers, easily broke them: And thus Don Sebastian lost the Battle▪ where he was killed upon the place, with two other Kings; and they had a great number of Prisoners, who were carried to Morocco.
He told me also of Muley-Hamet Maluco, or Abdelmelech, one of the Kings Muley Maluco, or Abdemelech. which had won the Battle, who died of Sickness in his Litter, after having given good Orders to all. When they who were about him perceived he was Dead, they concealed his Death for fear of discouraging the Soldiers, who had the better; and used this Artifice, that is, they put forth his Hand as if he had been still alive: He himself had found out this trick, and had ordered them to make use of it after his Death.
Abdassis having related to me thus Muley Boufairs King of Morocco. much, told me also of Muley-Boufairs, the then King of Morocco, and how that he gave himself wholly over to his Wives and Concubines, and trusted too much upon a Bassa, named Joda, and was likely to loose the Battle, which he design'd to engage in when [Page 180] we parted from Morocco; and that all his delight was in Comer, Couscoussou, Auquam; that is, eating of a certain Confection made up into Sugar-Plums; but he found himself deceived; for he lost the Battle, as I have said already, and was Deposed from his Kingdom, and fled away to Mount Atlas about the month of November 1606. according as our Noster-Damus had predicted in his Centuries, as I have been shewed since: Abdassis told me also thereupon, that the Soldiers are mightily discouraged when the King comes not to Good advice for Kings. Battle in Person; And when he is Couragious, or a Coward, his Soldiers become the same.
As for the Couscoussou of which I have made mention, and which I have Tasted Coucoussou. several times, it is Meal made up and Kneaded into the fashion of Sugar-Plums or Comfits, with Water, in a Frying-pan; then put it in an Earthen Vessel full of holes at the bottom, like a Cullender, after that, it is put in a Pot upon a hot Fire, and the Vapour boils it; then they pour Broth thereupon, and eat it by great bits like Balls: It is of a very good Taste, which nourishes [Page 181] and fattens the Body to Admiration. I have often Eat thereof, it being prepared for me by the Moorish and Jewish Women: Their Corn is very fit for it, because it is very dry; ours, which is more moist, would not be so good, except it were first well dried.
After this Discourse of the Alcayde, we withdrew our selves into our Tents until the next morning that we began again to take Journey, and had that day very bad way by steep and inaccessible Mountains, not being able to keep any Order for the insupportable Heat; as for fresh Water we had none. I was mounted upon a Mule, and was forced frequently to get down to beat it away on foot, which was no small trouble for me, in that I had near 6000 Crowns about me, as well in Lignots, as in Tybre, that is Powder, as it comes from Gago, and also in Money, which are Sequins of the Country: I had a great deal of trouble to remount; for it did not behove me to stay behind, for fear of the Arabs, and of those of our Caravan themselves.
Having passed all the hardships of this Journey, we came to pitch at the [Page 182] Duquele, where these Matamores are, of Duquele. which I have so much spoken. Here came several Arabians on Horseback, mounted in order with their Launces, to salute Abdassis their Chief, and Captain of their Cabille, every one bringing him Presents▪ then after having kissed his Hands, they returned again to their Adouars, who were gone above 2 or 3 Leagues from thence. The next day, the 2d of October, we went to lie at Saffy, and as we approached there, passing through some Woods of Broom, very high, there was two Moorish Cavalliers, who took me out of the right way, making me go with them cross these Brooms, which were so high that one could scarce see another in the middle of them. I was upon my Mule, and coming near to an old Well, they got down, bidding me also to do the like: I thought there had been there some Fountain to refresh our selves; but seeing that they had a mind to make me get down only to entice me into this Well, I immediately [...]a [...]ger of the Author turned my Mule about towards the great Highway, with all the speed I possibly could, and thus narrowly escaped [Page 183] from their Hands: Their design was, (as I believe) to make me quit the Gold and Silver which I carried, and then to cut my Throat, and to cast me in some Ditch: But I had a good Inspiration when I was just upon the point of descending; and as my good Angel would have it, the great Road, through which the Caravan passed was not far from thence, which did facilitate my safety▪ My too much Diligence, and the great desire that I had to advance to get to Saffy the first, had been the cause of this Accident. At last, by the Grace of God, I arrived happily at Saffy: After having a little refreshed my self, I took care for my Embarkment, and caused my Materials to be visited by the Talbes, and payed them their due.
The next day, when I thought to Embark, causing my things to be carried to the Port, the Talbes came and demanded of me the Letter and Passport from the Haquin of Morocco, and having given it them, they told me it signified nothing to the purpose, because Muley-Boufairs was no longer King of Morocco, and that it behoved [Page 184] me to have another from Muley-Abdalla, Muley Abdalla King of Morocco. who was then King of Morocco, under his Father Muley-Chec, who was at Fez: I was very much afflicted at this Retardment, which made me loose the convenience of a Ship, that was bound for France. Nevertheless, being forced to have patience, it behoved me to send a Trotier or Messenger to Morocco with our Letter to have another, which could not be done without a great deal of Trouble and Expences: But my ill fortune was, that this Letter being come, I must be forced to wait there near 2 months, upon the account of a Dutch Ship, which was not to set sail till January 1607.
This change of Affairs at Morocco happened after my departure from the Revolutions at Morocco. City: For Muley-Boufairs King of Morocco, having lost the Battle against his Nephew Abdalla, fled away into the Mountains, where he was Robb'd, as I have said, and Abdalla was then in peaceable possession of Morocco; But during the Peace, Abdalla having discovered that the other hatched some Treason to dispossess him, he Stabb'd him with his own Hands, after having [Page 185] reproached him with his Perfidie: But after that, Zidan his Uncle, with the help of a Santon, or Marabou, hath chased away Abdalla, and made himself King of Morocco: Afterwards he himself was chased away by the Santon; and it was said that they were ready to engage in Battle together, and since I have heard that the Santon had been taken by Ziden, who had put him to Death by Sawing him down through the middle, with two pieces of Wood: Since that, he and his Nephew Abdalla had agreed together, and by the Agreement, the Kingdoms of Fez and Sus fell to Abdalla, and that of Morocco to Zidan.
As for the Marabous or Santons, they Santons dangerous. are very dangerous amongst these People, by reason that the pretext of Devotion and Sanctity of their Law, as in all others, is a great means to Commotions against the State, as it is often seen, and of fresh memory in him, who within this 100 years hath founded this last Family, which does Rule there at this day.
As for Muley-Chec, who was at Morocco, he went into Spain, out of a desire [Page 186] to become Christian, and indeed he delivered the strong place of Arache into the hands of the King of Spain, who for this gave him a Pension, and promised to restore him, with an Army, to the Kingdoms of Fez and Morocco: But those of Fez would not hearken to that, not agreeing with the Spaniards; And Abdalla his Son returned to Fez, who also hindered him, insomuch, that the Chec has been since constrain'd to go back again of his own accord, without gaining any thing of the Spaniards save the loss of putting such a place into their Hands.
But to return to the Abode that I was Sassy and its Description. forced to make at Sassy, I employed my self in the mean time in viewing this City, and the Parts there abouts: 'Tis a little City situated upon the brink of the Sea, which has no convenient Haven but only a Road, and flat Shore, and has formerly been possessed by the Portugals: It may be as big as Cor [...]eil, and very well Walled, being in habited by all [...]o [...]ts of People, as Jews, Moors, and Christians, and hath a Douane.
Doing there, I observed amongst other thing [...] the manner of their Marriages, [Page 187] which are performed with this Ceremony. Manner of the Marriages. They put the Bride upon a Mule, well furnished, and surrounded with a Hoop like a Cage, covered with a Carpet, after the Turkish manner: Scarcely can any see this Woman thus shut up, but she can see the whole company through a transparent Vail: At the top of this is a Scarf: They walk her in this Equipage round about the City, and cause to follow after several Mules laden with Baggage of that which the Bride has given her in Marriage: Then follow the Men and Women, mounted also upon Mules. Both the Men and Women make a strange and ridiculous noise as they pass along, with their Mouths and Tongues. Amongst these are double Drums, A-la-Moresque. After having finished▪ this walk, they go to Dinner, then they return to the place. And if it is the Wife of a Cavallier, or Man of War, all his Friends assemble there on Horseback, who exercise themselves at justing, continuing 2 or 3 hours before the Bride; then after that every one withdraws: As for the rest, if the Husband does not find his Wife a Maid, he Divorces her, and sends her back [Page 188] with all that she brought; and for this they cause the Drawers of the Bride to be carried about the City, all stained in Blood, to testifie that she was a Virgin. The Jews cry, and observe the same thing.
As for what concerns the Dead, they have Burying-Places and Sepulchers, where they go to Weep and Lament Burials. upon the Graves of their departed Friends, especially the Women, who fail not to go there every Friday, and the days of their Festivals. The Jews do the same, as I have observed in Syria, where they use a certain Vessel pierced with holes at the bottom, and make their Tears run down from thence, right upon the Sepulcher, which is environed with all kind of Flowers.
I will add to this, that all the Moors are nothing else but Captives & Slaves Moors Slaves to their King. of their King; for they dare not so much as stir out of the Country and Kingdom, without his express Licence and Command, as I have taken notice of several times at Saffy. I remember one day, a young Man, a Moor, having by chance cast himself into a Boat of the Christians, out of curiosity, or to [Page 189] play and Fish, the Haquin seeing him, caused him to be taken by his Serjeants, then to be laid upon the Ground and cruelly Bastinadoed.
Whilst I was at Saffy, waiting for my departure, I went about the Fields and Desarts to look for Plants and delicate Flowers to carry to the King. I gathered a great many of them, which I laid up, and having caused Biscuit to be made for my Voyage, with other Refreshments, we set sail the 24th of Jan. 1607. and having contrary Winds Departure for France. towards the South Line: Having been driven from one side to the other, we arrived in the end near the Coast of England, in very tempestuous weather, having been so beaten by contrary Winds, we knew not well how far we had to any Land, in regard that we were scarce able to take the heighth of the Sun or Stars; But thereupon seeing a Ship coming, much about the bigness of ours, streight to us, we lowred our Sails to tarry for her, making signs for her to come up, which they did▪ telling us, that the South Line was very near South-line, us, and what Wind was best for us to take: We were very glad at this news, [Page 190] and a little after we saw the South-Line; but the Weather was very tempestuous, and I believe that without this advice we should have gone near to have lost our selves on▪ the Rocks, which are low and in great numbers.
Being entered into the Channel, we descried a Ship, making full sail upon us, and believing that it was a Fleming, we prepared our selves to receive her, but the night coming on, which was very Stormy, we lost her, bearing more to the N.E. The next morning we saw the Isle of Wight, imagining Wight-Island. it was the Land of England: But approaching nearer, we sound out our mistake, and Coasting it a little, we perceiv'd the Land of England, which lay to the N. E. of us, and went to cast Anchor in a Bay, which advanced into the Land, and where there was a little Village: Those of the place seeing us Anchor there, came on board us, and told us, that when the Sea went out we should be a-ground, and that it behoved us to set sail in all haste to go to a Port not far from thence; so they helped and conducted us to the said Port, near the Ports-mout. Poulle, [Page 191] in a Creek, not far from a Tower, where we were at Harbour: But the night being come, we had the strangest and most horrible Storm that had been heard of of a long time; insomuch that Horrible [...]mpest. we were forced to cast 3 or 4 Anchors▪ which were all little enough to hold our Ship.
This happened on Shrove-Tuesday▪ the 27th of Feb. and in this Storm two Ships were lost near the Isle of Wight, the one a Fleming, who was lading, and the other a French, who seeing themselves near being lost, put out the Boat to save themselves, leaving nothing in the Ship save a Cat: But these People approaching near Land, a Wave came which o [...]erturned the Boat, and they were all lost.
The Ship in the mean time went with a right Winds towards Plimouth▪ a Town and Port of England: Some People from the Coast seeing this Ship thus sail towards Land, where there was no Port, ran to give them notice thereof; But calling out aloud, and no Strange Accident. one answering, they knew not what to think, judging they might be Pirates, who had not a mind to be known▪ [Page 192] In the end, seeing the Ship like to be cast away, they resolved to Board her, and entering, they found nothing but this Cat, at which they were mightily astonished, and took the Ship into Port; It was laden with Corn, and after having heard that the People were lost near the Isle of Wight, they left it in the hands of the Justice, until it might be restored to the right Owners.
This great Storm, the cause of all these Accidents, was such, that it caused a great distraction and loss of People, along the Coast of England, as we heard since. When we came to Portsmouth we found out the Truth of this, and how the Sea had overwhelmed certain places a good way within Portsmouth, which is a pleasant Sea Port Portsmouth. Town.
After having been some days at Portsmouth, to refresh our selves, and to wait for a Wind to carry us to Havre-de-Grace, where our Ship was to go, to leave there some Merchandize of Barbary: When the Wind was favourable to us, we set sail the 16th of March, and the nex [...] day in the evening we arrived at the Haven, for which I [Page 193] praised God, for having delivered me from so many Perils and Dangers; and going by Land to Roan, I there tarried for my Materials, which were brought in the Hoy; and having received and laded them in a Boat upon the River, I went straight to Paris, where I arrived the 25th of March▪ From thence I went to Fontainebleau, to give the King an account of my Voyage, and to present him with the Plants and Rarities which Ihad brought, with which his Majesty was mighty well pleased, enquiring of me several things, to which I answered him in the best manner I could: And desiring to know further of me, what it was that Muley-Zidan did, I answered him, that he had encamped in the Desarts with his Army▪ and amongst other things, I gave him account of 3 Cavalliers belonging to Muley-Boufairs, his Brother, with whom he had War, the which being come into his Almahalle, to render themselves to him, he demanded of them if they came to him of their own Free-Will, and having answered him they did, and that they had quitted Muley-Boufairs, because [Page 194] they had been falsly accused of a Robbery in the Juderie at Morocco: Zidan hearing this, asked them if they took him for a Receiver of Robbers, and thereupon commanded them to be Beheaded, shewing thereby a great Act of Justice for a Barbarian and Mahometan: Having finished this Discourse and several others to the late King, and presented him with the Plants and Rarities, and the White Honey of Africa, exceeding clear and excellent, of which his Majesty tasted, and caused me to lay it carefully up, I went back to Paris to think in good earnest of the Voyage that I had a mind to make to the East-Indies.
A Description of the following Cutts.
The First, The manner of the Fights of the Moors and Africans of Morocco, and other Arabians of the Countrys of Barbary.
The 2d, The Customs of the Arabians when they remove their Habitations, and carry with them their Adouars, or Tents, and take their Families to Sow and Cultivate the Land in any other part of the Country.
THE TRAVELS AND VOYAGES OF John Mocquet, INTO Ethiopia, Mozambique, Goa▪ And other Places of AFRICA, and the East-Indies.
BOOK IV.
LIke as our desires are never satisfied in this life, but continually coveting after new Things, until we are entered into a perfect enjoyment of those which we desire most; so, being returned from my last Voyage of Africa, the desire of my former design [Page 198] was renewed in me to go to the East-Indies, from which I had been diverted by the occasion that I have given account of in the beginning of my third Book; so that having taken a Resolution at this time, I took my leave of the King and Queen in the year 1607. and parted from Paris the 16th of October, with a design to pass into Britagne, and from thence into Portugal.
I Embarked thence the 16th of Nov. Embarking for Portugal. in a Ship of Poligain, belonging to one named Yves Bigram, and we were about 18 or 20 men in all. This was in a morning, and in a very great Storm: We went on Board with no small trouble, the Waves covering us very frequently. As soon as we were there▪ we set sail; the Wind being for us: This Ship was bound for Sevill, but, as fortune would have it, being towards the Cape of Pichay, we met with so furious a Tempest, the Wind being quite contrary to us to gain the Cape of S [...]. Vincent, that we were forced to slacken in the River of Lisbon, where I was desirous to go: For it was the time the Fleet was preparing to go away. And arriving at Sevill, I had [Page 199] the trouble to return back to Lisbon; and perhaps, for all that, I might have lost the occasion of my Voyage.
We cast Anchor then at Sta. Catarina, a little above Belin, the 2d of December: Belin. I went on Shore, and lay at a place call'd Belin, where the Visitor of Health, hearing I was come without Licence, commanded me to Re-Embark, under the forfeiture of 50 Ducats▪ He made all this stir only for want of a little Present: After having ordered my Business, I failed not to go to Lisbon, where being come, I took a Lodging, and waited to Embark, and found there the Sieur de-Herve, who had been in the Service of the King of Morocco, and was very kind to these two Portugal Gentlemen, who were come out of Captivity; one being Son to the Vice-Roy of the East-Indies, Henry de Saldaigne; and the other, Brother to Don Baptiste Fernand Sezar, Provisor-General of the House of the Indies, and his Brother-in-Law, the Count de Fera went to the Indies for Vice roy. I desired my Friend, the Sieur de-Herve to speak to these Gentlemen, his Friends, who had so much [Page 200] Credit, that by their means I might pass to the Indies. Pedro Sezar, Brother to Baptiste Fernand, promised him to do all he could, so that he spoke to the Count de Fera; and the said Herve, to oblige them the more, said, that I was his Brother; For those Gentlemen were very respectful to him for having assisted them in the time of their Captivity with Money: They then desired me to speak to the Count de la Fera by the means of Baptiste Fernand, and told him that I was a very curious Count de la Fera. Man; and he hearing that I had knowledge of Plants, was mighty glad, and told me that there was great quantity of good and rare Plants in the Indies, which he had proved at such time that he was Captain at Arms: After Proveditor de la Case d'Inde. that, he asked me my Name, and having writ it in a Paper, he sent it by one of his Servants to the Proveditor of the House of India, who having read it, sent it to him again, saying, That a Stranger might not pass to the Indies without Licence from the King of Spain.
The Count de la Fera, seeing this, caused a Letter to be writ at that instant, in my presence, by Baptiste Fernand, [Page 201] his Brother-in-Law, and sent it by the same Servant to Don Christoval, Vice-roy of Portugal, who commanded the Frenchman to be set down, that is to say, received. I was very glad of this Answer; and I with a Servant went to the House of India to carry this Licence to the Proveditor, Nephew to the Vice-roy, who kept it, and told him that brought it, that he could not set me down for this Permission; but that he would speak of it to the Count de la Fera. I was very sorry at this, and almost out of all hopes of going the Voyage: Hereupon I retired to my Lodging to consider of what I had to do, that I might not loose this opportunity. The next day, going to find out the Servant of the Count de la Fera, I desired him to go with me, as from the Vice-roy his Master, which he willingly did, but I could not obtain any thing at that time; but I lost not Courage for all that; and the day following I went again to the Servant, and desired him to go with me but once more; and so we went together to the House of India before this Proveditor, the Servant [Page 202] bringing him Word from the Count de la Fera his Master; The Proveditor seeing himself so much importuned from him whom he durst not displease, in regard he was one of the Grandees of Portugal, and Vice-roy of the Indies▪ He demanded of me my Name, and that of my Father, and of my Mother, and the place of my Birth; then he The Author received for the Voyage. ordered me to be set down in the Book for a Natural French man. Thus at last I was received, of which I was exceeding glad, and gave the Servant many Thanks, promising to assist him all I could, as I did afterwards, he being sick: Two or 3 days after I went to receive my Pay, which was 7500 Rais, (there must be a thousand of them to make 25 Rials) and prepared my self to Embark in the Admiral, in which the Vice-roy was to sail.
When the time of Embarkment came, there was a great Confusion amongst us, were being about 900. The Register called every one by their Name▪ to know if all were Embarked. My Host answered for me; and that he might not have any trouble upon my account, I was present [Page 203] at the Lecture of all the Equipage: For it is a Register on shore which makes all this Inquest. These Ceremonies being over, we set sail; first, five great Ships or [...]arracks, which were, the Admiral called Our Lady of Mount-Carmel the Olive, the Salvation, Our Lady of the Indies, and the Palm; then 5 Gallies, St. Jerom, the Good Jesus, the Holy Ghost, St. Bartholomew, and St. Anthony; then after these a Carrack, and two Hulks.
We parted from the River of Lisbon the 29th of March, on Easter-Eve, Parting from Lisbon. and bore to the S. W. and to the S. We had great Winds in the sight of Madera, and passing close thereby, the Galley of Good Jesus lost us, and took her Course as far as Mosambique, where she was taken by the Hollanders.
Amongst us was the greatest Disorder and Confusion imaginable, because of the Peoples Vomiting up and Misery upon the Sea. down, and making Dung upon one another: There was nothing to be heard but Lamentations and Groans of those who were straightned with Thirst, Hunger, and Sicknesses, and other Incommodities, and Cursing the [Page 204] time of their Embarkment, their Fathers and Mothers, and themselves, who were the cause thereof; so that one would have thought [...]hey had been out of their Wits, and like Madm [...]n, amongst the excessive heats under the Line, and the Abrolles and Calms: This continued a long time, and the hot Rains upon the Coast of [...] was also very troublesome to us, which afterwards turned to Worms, [...]f that which was wet was not presently dried: It was a wonderful trouble to me, to see my Quilt wet, and Worms crawling all over. These Rains are so stinking, that they rot and spoil, not only the Pody, but also all Cloths, Chests, Utensils, and other Things: And not having any more Cloths to shift my self withall, I was forced to dry upon me that which I wo [...]e, with my Quilt, by lying thereupon; but I was well fitted for that; for the Fever, with a great pain in [...] the [...]. the Reins, took the in such a manner, that I had a fit of Sickness, almost, the whole Voyage; yet this was not all, for I had besides that, the Lovende, S [...]u [...]. which the Portugals call Berber, [Page 205] and the Hollanders Scurbus, which rotted almost all my Gumbs, and rendered a sort of a black and pu [...]rified Blood; My Knees were so contracted that I could not bend my Limbs; my Legs and Thighs were as black as Members Gan-green'd, and was constrained to be continually Launcing to get out this black and putrified Blood. I Launced also my Gums, which were black and blue, and surmounting my Miso [...]y of the Autho [...] Teeth, going every day out upon the side of the Ship, holding by the Cordage, with a little Looking▪Glass in my hand to see where to cut: When I had cut away this dead Flesh, and drawn away abundance of black Blood, I washed my Mouth and Teeth with Urine, but the next morning there was as much; And my ill fortune was, that I could not Eat, having more mind to swallow than to chew, upon the account of the great pains which this Disease causes. I found no better remedy than the Syrop of Gilli-flowers, and good red Wine: Great numbers Died every day thereof, and there was nothing to be seen but Bodies a flinging over-board, and the most part Died [Page 206] without help, some behind Chests, having their Eyes, and the Soles of their Feet eaten up with Rats. Others were found Dead in their Beds, after having been let Blood, and moving their Arms, the Veins opened, and their Blood ran out: Oftentimes after having received their Allowance, which might be about a Pint of Water, and putting it near them to Drink, when a-dry, their Companions rob'd these poor Sick Wretches of this little Water, they being asleep, or turned to the other side. Sometimes being under Deck in a dark place, not seeing Strange [...]hirst. one another, they would fight amongst themselves, and strike one another, if they caught any about to Steal their Water; and thus, oftentimes were they deprived of Water, and for want of a little Draught they miserably died, without any one offering to help them to never so little, no not the Father the Son, nor the Brother the Brother, so much did every Man's particular Thirst compel him to Rob his Companions. I found my self oftentimes thus deceived of my allowance, but yet I comforted my self as well [Page 207] as I could, seeing so many others in the same case: And this was the cause that I durst not Sleep too much, and commonly put my Water where it could not be easily taken without wakening of me▪
After we had suffer'd thus much, and passed the Line, the Count de la Fera, Vice-roy, was took sick of a hot Count de la Fera falls Sick and Dies. Fever, and continued so but 6 days before he died: He had a little before Commanded the Estrinquere, (which is he whose Office is to hoise the great Sail by a Wheel) to be made Prisoner▪ because he had Amancebado, that is to say, he kept a Concubine, which he had brought from Portugal, and she being with Child when she Embark'd, was brought to Bed in our Ship: The Woman was sent back to Portugal in the Hulk, in which was the Body of the Count de la Fera.
This Gentleman being dead, I Embalmed his Body, because of the hotness of the Climate; then having Embark'd it with about 50 sick Persons, who were to return again to Portugal, tho not without great Intreaties to have the Licence of Captain More, [Page 208] Major. We called this Captain of Captain Major-Mor. the Vice-Admiral named Don Christoval de Norogne, to Command in the Admiral, where the said Captain Mor being, did us a thousand sorts of Injuries and Cruelties, as well by Prisons, as by cheating us of our ordinary allowance of Victuals; for he reserved several Pipes of Wine, and a great deal of Flesh and Oil to sell at Mozambique. Don Alfonce de Norogne, Captain of our Ship, under the Vice-roy, when he was alive, was mightily displeased at this bad usage of Don Cristoval; but he died within few days, and his Body was cast into the Sea.
Having passed about 9 or 10 Degrees on the other side the Line, the Wind not being favourable to us, the Pilots held Council what they should do, whether to Tack about and return to Portugal, or to pass on, fearing they could not pass the Cape of Good Hope, in regard it was too late in the year; because, that the M [...]eson's, or Muessons. Winds of the Season were almost passed already: After having well disputed upon this subject, they tack'd about to return to Portugal, and having sailed [Page 209] some time, the Captain Mor, who had a mind to make himself by this Voyage, seeing himself at that time Chief Commander of the Fleet, threatned the Master and Pilot with ill Language, and commanded them to Tack again for the Indies: This was in the night, and thereupon Fires were made for a signal for the other Vessels to return; but we were not long together in Consort; for the rest knowing the Viceroy to be Dead, separated from us; and each held theirs a part, we continuing alone until we came to the Isles of Angoche, near the River of Cumana, Cumana. where we found the St. Anthony and St. Bartholomew Galleys: We held then our Course, tho' our Men dying every day of the Lovende; At last we approached the Cape of Good Hope, seeing Cape de Bonne Esperance. Alcatraz. Mangues de Velours▪ the signal of Alcatraz and Mangues de Velours; Alcatraz are Birds like Sparrows; Mangues de Velours are Birds like Cranes, having the bottom of their Bellies, and Backs white; and the end of the Wings, Tail, and Neck, black; and these Birds continually keep above 80 Leagues round about the Cape. These Signals did a little chear us up, [Page 210] and encouraged us to come nearer to this so dangerous and tempestuous Furious Tempest. place: For coming there, we had the most furious and greatest Storm that I ever saw; Our Carrack was about 2000 Tun, one of the Gallantest Ships in all Portugal, having been built above 30 years, and yet seemed to be but like a simple Boat, amongst these high and dreadful Waves. We needed little Fore-Mast to the Wind, and 30 or 40 Mariners at the Stern. In this Stormy Weather we could not keep our Ship with Wind, and were about a 100 Persons, 50 on each side, to Devise how to get again before the Wind, which we had lost. Our Deck was covered all over with Water, and it was impossible to get any farther than the Planks of the Ship, either behind or before. Amongst these Miseries and Calamities we expected nothing but Shipwrack, committing our selves to the Divine Mercy; and made a General Procession Praying Devoutly to God, that he would preserve us from this imminent Danger; besides, we could no longer resist, because of the weakness and sickness of our Men: [Page 211] But God of his Goodness heard our Prayers, appeasing by little and little this great Tempest, which we had so long endured; so that having passed this dangerous place, we descried the Cape of Aigu [...]lles, which made us judg Cape de Aiguilles. that we had passed that of Good-Hope▪ and from thence we arrived at the Land of Natall, where it was very Natall. tempestuous, and almost as dark as night: We found there boisterous Winds, and we were forced to labour day and night to avoid the Baixos ds los Judios, or da Judia, that is▪ the Baixos de los Judias. Shelves of the Jews in the Channel of the Coast of Sofala, where there is a great many Ships lost, and where amongst others, happened that no less lamentable than memorable Ship wrack of the Ship called the St. James, in the year 1585. who going to Goa in the East-Indies, split upon these Rocks, and of 250 Persons, not above 90 escaped, by different manners, with as much or more misfortune and miseries on Land as they had enjoy'd on the Sea: There was some Fathers, Jesuits, and Dominicans cast away there, and others saved themselves. The strange and [Page 212] lamentable circumstances of the Accidents, have rendered this Shipwrack the most remarkable that ever happened in these Seas; which is the reason that these Rocks are so much feared, which are like great heaps of sharp Stones and spikes of White Coral, and commonly covered with Water, so that they are not perceived until you are upon them, and the Ship splitting; but we by the help of God escaped them, so that having taken the height, and seeing our selves escaped, we made the best of our way towards this Harbour, where we found the two Gallies as I have said before, and knowing them again, we bore towards them, and cast Anchor 4 Leagues from the Isles, sending the Boat to Land to hear news from Mosambique, which is about 25 Leagues from thence. There came on board us a Pangais, who told us how Mosambique had been Besieged by the Hollanders, and that it was not above 15 days since they had raised the Siege, and had taken the Galley of Good Jesus, which they burnt; and Hollanders at Mosambique. having known by this Gallion that we were coming, they presently retired; [Page 213] for those of the Gallion knew nothing of the Death of the Count de la Fera, nor of the dispersing of the Fleet, they being separated from us hard by the Isle of Madera: We weighed Anchor from thence, not finding above 5 or 6 Fathoms Water. As the Wind began to clear it behoved us to cast our Anchors, and the next day to raise them again; this was the 15th of Sept. but the Currents of Water which run towards the Islands of Angoche, were like to have swallowed us up: We endured a world of Hardships in casting and weighing Anchor, which left me some Blisters upon my Hands; and as weak as I was, I laboured with all my might to be rid of these dangerous passages: In the end, we cast and weighed our Anchors so, that we arrived at Mosambique the 29th of Sep. and Anchored near the Isles of St. George, Arrival at Mosambique. which is 3 or 4 Leagues distant.
The next morning we Anchored near ths Fortress. As soon as we arrived at Mosambique, we understood how our Vice-Admiral had passed the Cape of Good-Hope immediately after us, when the Storm was a little allayed; and [Page 214] how they had seen a Sea-Monster passing Sea Monster along by the Ship, which was of a strange form and wonderful greatness: He blowed and snored with a great noise, and kept his Body in a round like a Pillar, carrying a thing like a Shield before his Head, and a Saddle upon his Back: As he passed close by the Ship, he made so terrible a noise, that they thought themselves all lost; but he left them, and they saw him no more.
Being then arrived at Mosambique, we were mightily astonished to find there nothing to Eat, being then so fallen away by the fatigue of the Sea: We went on shore, having Anchored the St. Bartholomew, St. Anthony, St. Jerome, and our own, which was the Admiral: They were there full five Months, waiting for the Muesson of VVinds to convey us to Goa. VVe endured there not a little; for as I have said, we could find nothing to live upon, there not being any Bread. The Sick were put in Cabins of Palm, some in the Fortress, and others in the City; but they Died by 10 and 15 aday, and there remained 735 Buried, Number of the Dead. [Page 215] as the haplain of our Ship told me, who kept a List of them.
I went also on Shore, scarce able to go, and walked about the Streets looking for something to Eat; but I could find nothing save some little Fishes fryed, which these Ethiopian VVomen sell about the Streets, with some Cakes of Meal Baked upon the Coals, which Mocates. they call Mocates.
I bought some of this Fish fryed in the Oyl of Gerselin, (a little Seed like Carraways, which they make Oil Rape-Seed. of) which has a very ill Taste; Then retiring alone to make a Feast, and comforting my self the best I could, relying wholly upon God: I demanded a little Water of these VVomen, who gave me some, but it was so Salt that I could scarce drink any of it; for they had drawn it out of a nasty VVell, which was hard by the place where I was; But they fetch the good VVater out of the Continent, at a place called Cabassie: There is indeed a little Spring, but it was little better than nothing.
After that I went again on Board the Ship; Then the next day I returned again to Land, to look for some [Page 216] to lodge in, because the Hollanders had burnt all the Houses; and by chance I found a Soldier, who took me into his Lodging within the Fortress, where I carried all my Materials; But after having been there some days, as well to Purge my self, as to be cured of my Disease, comes some of the Servants of Captain Mor to look for me, and commanded me to follow them to speak with their Master: I followed them in abundance of pain, and they hastning me forward, which I did after the best manner I could through these Sands towards the Seaside▪ in the end, they laid me upon the Back of an Ethiopian, to carry me into his Almadie, which is a sort of a Almadie. little Boat of the Country, made of a hollow Tree: They cast me within it as if I had been a Log of VVood; and one of the Serjeants Embarked with me: The Tide being come, he made the Blacks row, to bring me on board the Vice-Admiral St. Jerome: I was a long time in this Almadie, du ring the excessive heat of the Sun a-Noon-Day, and I expected to Die with Heat and Thirst, and bought a [Page 217] Lagne, or Nut of Palm of these Ethiopians, to drink of the Water of it, giving half to him who kept me Prisoner.
When I came on Board, he put me into the Hands of the Merigne, or Serjeant of the Ship, who demanded of him how he would have me fastened; to which he answered, by the Neck, the Merigne opened the Collars of Iron, Imprisonment of the Author, and his Misery. and caused me to lie down all along, and shut my Neck betwixt two pieces of Wood: But seeing me Sick, he had some Compassion upon me and gave me a Pillow to put under my Head: I was in this miserable Condition from the 7th to the 28th of October, at which time I was set at liberty.
I being then thus taken and shut up, about 4 in the evening comes the Ovydor or Judg of the Army, with the Register, and demanding of me my Name, and from whence I came, and who gave me Licence to pass into the Indies; They knew it very well, but made as though they were ignorant thereof: For they hnew that I had Embarqued in the Service of the Count de la Fera; and besides, at such Nature of the Portugals. time when they themselves had been [Page 218] Sick, I had served and assisted them, for which they said then they were mightily obliged to me: But these Portugals being for the most part of the Race of the Jews, are by Nature Cruel and Ungrateful; When they had enquired concerning my Person, and writ it down, they demanded of me where my Chest and Utensils were, and to give them the Key: Their design was to Rob me of that little Money, and other concerns which I had.
They had taken a little before one John Baptisto▪ a Geneue [...]e who had been Secretary to the late Viceroy, and had made much enquiry after him, [...]e [...]ing him that he had some Papers and Memorials against the State of the Indies: The Captain Mor had deceived him; For he had caused him to come on Shore from the Pangais, where he was Embarked with Don Louis Alves, Brother to the Count de la Fera, desiring him to go with him to the Conquest of Cumana. This Don Louis carried Voyage to Cumana. 200 men to the assistance of Monomoptata, one of the Kings of the Lower Ethiopia, against another King his Neighbour, who made War upon [Page 219] him; and the said Monomoptata had promised the Portugals to give them all they could Conquer. Now when this John Baptisto was come on Shore, upon the Faith of the Captain, who John Baptisto taken. promised him that he should not have any harm done, he was immediately sent as a Prisoner to the Vice Admiral, and presently after I was taken as I have before given account, and found the said John Baptisto Prisoner, under Deck, not having then any Irons upon his Feet: He was mightily astonished to see me fastned so as I was, and endeavoured to render me what Consolation he could, that I might take it patiently: But this was not all my Misery to be thus fastened by the Neck; for Hunger, Thirst, and the Disease of my Gums tormented me much more; for they would not so much as give me a little Water to Drink; And by ill fortune I had taken no Money along with me, not knowing where they would lead me; and had not in all above two Rials, one of which I was Robb'd of, and with the other I prayed the Merigne to buy me some little Fishes, if any passed by our [Page 220] Ship, when the Blacks come from Fishing abroad, who commonly pass by, asking in their Language if any one had occasion for Somba, that is to say, Fish, and Macacoua, or Fish dried in the Sun. I had still my Instrument▪ Case, and a Gold Ring upon my Finger, which I pawned for Victuals.
The evening being come, after the Inquest was made concerning the said John Baptisto and me, the Captain Mor, sent Soldiers to guard us, and ordered Irons to be fastened also upon John Baptisto's Feet, then caused him to be put at the bottom of the Ship, and to shut the Hatches upon him, and the Keys to be brought to him; and continued thus five days, without having any thing given him to Eat: As for me, the Merigne in the evening took the Collars from about my Neck, and put Irons upon my Feet, and caused me to lie upon a Chest in his Cabbin▪ As for Don Louis d'Alves, Brother to Don Louis d'Alves. the Count de la Fera, when he saw how Captain Mor had served his Secretary such an ill Trick, by thus falsifying his Faith▪ he was mightily troubled thereat; besides he had before [Page 221] fallen out with this Captain, and would have fought him, upon a difference about the Sea-Provision of the Count de la Fera, which was worth very near 10000 Ducats, in Victuals, as well Flesh, Biscuit, Wines, Oil, as other Refreshments for the Sea; and this Captain, who was before Vice-Admiral, and, since the Death of the Count, Admiral himself, had made use of some of them, and carried the rest to Mosambique, and there sold them. Don Louis seeing that he could obtain no Restitution of this wicked Man, he Embarked to go on his Voyage to Cumana, to the Conquest of the Gold, which this King, Enemy to Monomopata had; and Captain Mor thinking, that Don Louis upon his setting Sail would board the Ship where we were Prisoners, sent a great number of Soldiers and Cannoniers, with charge to fire at, and sink the Pangais of Don Louis, if he made the least shew to Board them. In the morning Don Louis having caused his Pangais to set sail, he put himself in a posture to Board our Ship; whereupon the Cannoniers turned their [Page 222] Pieces, and the Soldiers with their Muskets cockt, to receive them; Some Diffrrence betwixt the Portugals. said, let us Fire before they come on board us; others said that they would not Fire because those in the Pangais were their Countrymen, and their own Friends: In the end, Don Louis, (whether it was that he feared to be sunk, or that he trusted not too much to the Faith of the Portugals his Compatriots) went directly on in his Course. Whereupon the Captain sent for the Master Cannonier, causing him to be Imprisoned, and Irons clapt upon his Feet, bidding him prepare himself to be Hanged: But this Master Cannonier being a stout bold Fellow, and not at all astonished at these Threatnings, boldly told him that he confessed himself he had more offended in Commanding, than he had done in Disobeying to Fire upon Don Louis.
This being thus over, the next day in the evening, the Captain sent one of his Men to take off my Irons, who left me Prisoner below Deck, with 6 Soldiers to guard me, who followed me every where for fear that I should leap into the Sea to save my self.
[Page 223] When I saw my self a little more at liberty, I assisted the Secretary John Baptisto, with a little Biscuit cut into little Bits, being black, rotten, and mouldy, and much ado to get that: I raised up, as well as I could, the cover of the place where I was enclosed, and thus gave him some little Bits, which was no small help to him.
But as God never forsakes his Servants in their Afflictions, the said John Baptisto told me in Latin, that he had found means to open the Pad-Locks of his Irons, and to take them of; and had also met with a Pipe of Wine, but could not get any of it without a hollow piece of Tinn, which he would use, putting a Stick through it with some Tow or Flax at the end, like a Sponge, and thus to draw out the Wine: I discovered this Business to the Merigne, who kept us Prisoners, and who was very well satisfied to have his part thereof, and not to say a word, getting me a Burrage of Leather, which I gave to the said Baptisto at night, when the Soldiers were busie at their sports above us, and before the Lamp was lighted: This [Page 224] Wine was no small help to us, and I believe that without it we could searcely have subsisted any longer; for I sopped in private a little Biscuit in this VVine, which heartned me mightily.
About 5 days after, when Don Louis d' Alves was gone, John Baptisto was taken out from under the Hatches, and was left under the Deck with me, but not without Irons fastned on his Feet, when, as for me, I had no longer either Collars or Irons: Now one day as I was walking backwards and forwards upon the Deck, I by good fortune found under a Cannon, a Stone Bottle full of Syrop of Gilli-flowers; this I communicated to the Meregne, who took and kept it up for us both: I made use of this Syrop very often, as well to drink as to sop a little Biscuit therein, and in a little time I perceived my Gumbs to grow better, and my Legs began to stretch, which was no small comfort to me; in short, I was quite cured of my Disease, also making use of some Remedies which I took out of a Chest full of Medecines which I found one day below Deck quite open.
[Page 225] Having continued about 22 days in this fashion; the Captain came one night very late on Board, and then I took occasion to Discourse him, to know what he had a mind to do with me, and why he let me thus languish; He made me answer, that I should come on Shore with him, to speak with Captain Mor. The 28th of the same month we went to see Captain Mor, who demanded of me, wherefore I came, and having answered, that the Captain had brought me to speak with him, he bid me wait till the next day, and commanded the Captain to take me to his Lodging.
The next day being come, he carried me to Captain Mor: Then Captain Mor enquired of me if I had liberty to pass into the Indies, and where my Licence was; I told him I had left it with the Proveditor of the House of India; Then he asked me if I knew any one at Mosambique, I told him no▪ Then he said do not go out of this Island without my Licence first had▪ and gave me a Line or two to the Register, and I had my Chest again, but my Money was gone.
[Page] After all these Troubles, walking one day about the Island, I went to visit a Portugal Gentleman of my acquaintance, who lodged in a Horte, or Garden of Francisco Mendy, Judge of the Orphans: These two offered me a place to make a Cabin of Palm▪ the which I gladly accepted; and went to Lodge there; tho' the Lizards and Ants came quite under my Beds▪head▪ This Francisco Mendy kept Slaves, and sent me every day a great many Presents▪ He had a great mind that I should stay and live there, promising to give me one of his Nieces to Wife, Daughter to the Captain of Cumana, from whence the Gold comes; But I had no to mind tarry there, but rather pursue my Voyage to the East Indies.
After having suffer'd considerably in this place, being ready to Embark, I Pau d' Anac Wood good for the Disease of Antac. went to the Firm-Land of Cabassiere, to look▪ for a Barrel of Water, and a Root called by the Portuguese Pau d' Anac, that creeps along the Ground, and resembles much the Birth-Wort very long, bearing little long Pears, green and tender: The Root of it hath a wonderful Virtue in curing a Disease [Page 226] called Antac, gotten by having to do with the Ethiopian Women, and there is no other Remedy whereby to be exempted from Death but this: The Root is taken, ground, with clear Water, of the weight of a Crown, which makes the Patient sweat so, that in a short time it Cures him. 'Tis a little bitter, and yet the Taste and Smell is agreeable enough. I bargained with some of these Blacks to fill me a Sack therewith, who led me into the Woods to look for it.
Going along with them I found a thousand sorts of Plants and Fruits to me unknown: At last we entered into a little Field, where we found some Blacks keeping of Corm for fear of the Elephants, who have Ropes which reach the length of the Corn, with Stones hanging thereon; As soon as Manner to Hunt the Elephants. the Elephants approach, they shake these Stones against one another, which makes such a noise, that it frights the Elephants away: In the night they make Fires, which these Animals fear mightily. They make a little Lodge at the top of a Butt, and there watch by turns.
[Page] Having seen this, we retired to the Habitation where they had prepared my Dinner: There I made the Seamen Drink so much that they had like to have overturned our Boat. This Liquor was called Sura, a sort of Wine made of Palms; and I was mightily troubled to see these Ethiopians so puzzeled that they could scarce put up the Sails; and in the mean time the Boat was full of Water: One of the Wives of these Blacks tumbled into the Sea, but I recovered her, otherwise she had been Drowned. These Men understood not one another they were so Drunk; but as good fortune would have it, the Mocadon, or Guider of the Almadie, was not so Drunk as the rest. 'Twas looked upon as a Miracle how we passed from Great Cabassiere to the little one, where there was a thousand Nets, Trees, and Branches, fixed all along the Coast to catch Fish withall.
Having then more happily than prudently passed as far as the Little Cabassiere, we went on Shore to provide fresh Water; but there was none but in a great Well where there was but little neither: The Mariners were [Page 227] there making Provision of Water, so that I could not have any till night.
The night being come, and not knowing where to Lodge, these Ethiopians led me to a place above a League and a half from thence, but the People would not receive us, so that we were forced to return to the Port by reason of bad Weather: At last, being arrived at the Port, I laid me down in the Almadie, covering my self with my Cloak, where I endured the Rain all the night.
The next morning we hoised Sail, and sailed directly upon the Banks, from whence we had much ado to escape: In the end, being come off there from, with a great deal of trouble, and the Wind carrying us by force towards the Main-Sea, which did us that favour as to bring us near to the Chapel of the Bullwork, where being come, I made a Vow, never to trust my self with such Mariners again, who made me run the greatest hazard I ever had in the whole Voyage: I ordered my Water to be brought into my Cabin, and prepared my self for the Embarkment to Goa.
[Page] Whilst I was in this place, there White Prince of the Blacks. came the Son of an Ethiopian King, from a great distance in the Continent, to see some of his Kindred: His Father and Mother were black, and he was white and fair▪ He brought with him one of his Brothers, who was black, and some Slaves: They came both into my Cabin, telling me, that having heard say there was white Men at Mosambique, they came purposely to see them.
The Portugals made him a very good Reception, to the end they might have Free-Traffick in his Fathers Country: 'Twas said his Mother had two other White Children; but that his Father killed them, saying, they must needs be by some other Man; and that as he came into the World with this colour, his Father had determined to kill him also; but one of his Friends persuaded him to the contrary by telling him that it was by Divine Permission, and so was saved. His Mother had possibly had these Men in her Imagination which were said to be at Mosambique, or else had happened to her by some other Course of Imagination. He was not in the least Tann'd [Page 228] or Burnt with the Sun, and was about 20 years of Age, and his Brother about 18. They visited me 2 or 3 times in my Cabin, and I gave them to Eat and Drink of what I could have in the Country, at which they seemed to be very well Content.
I remember that being at Lisbon, I heard a Story of such a like thing History of a black Genoway. which happened at Genoua not long before, of which they made a Song in form of a Romance, which I heard Sung in Portugal. There was a rich Genoua, who was Married to a very honest and virtuous Woman, of one of the best Houses in Genoua, who having conceived some displeasure upon the account of one of her Black Slaves which had been gotten with Child by another Negro Slave, she imprinted that so deeply in her Imagination, that being with Child her self, she was brought to Bed of a black Child▪ but the angry Father believing that she had dishonoured her self with some Negro, was resolved to kill her; but she fled away to her Friends. Whereupon he gave charge to one of his Servants to go and leave the Child somewhere, [Page] or to kill it: But the Servant moved with Compassion, (besides the Mother had recommended it to him) saved the Child, and caused it to be brought up, making the Husband believe he had made it away: A little while after, this Genoua, fore vexed with Spite and Anger, forsook Genoua, and retired into Barbary, resolving to turn Turk, and live in Algier. In the mean time the poor Disconsolate Mother took care to bring up this Child to years of Discretion, and gave him Order to go seek his Father through the World; for none knew what was become of him. This young Black being upon the Sea, was taken by Corsairs, and carried to Argier to be sold, where he was bought by his own Father; but being troubled to see himself become a miserable Slave, his Father asked him whence he was, who learned of him the whole History of his Birth, at which being astonished, he acknowledged him for his Son, and resolved to quit the Country, and return with him to Genoua, and to be reconciled to his Wife: Wherefore having secretly provided for his departure, [Page 229] resolved to embark all his choicest things, and what he esteemed the most, they departed one night out of Algier in a Boat; but as ill fortune would have it, they were taken by Corsairs, by whom they were both cruelly Massacred: Such end had the Adventure of this poor Black.
But to return again to our Embarkment at Mosambique; The Weather of Muesson being come, (which is a Wind Muessons. that comes at a certain Season of the year, for there are but two sorts of Winds which raign in these Parts of India, East, and West; Don Estevan Don Estevan de Tayde. de Tayde, Governor of Mosambique, caused his Pangais to be made ready, burthen 30 Tuns, more or less, and to be laden with Bretangis and Conterie: Bretangis are a certain kind of Callico, dyed blue, and of a dark Violet; Conterie, are Beads of Glass or Amber, as well good as counterfeit, which is the Merchandize usual amongst these Ethiopians, who in exchange give Gold, Ambergreece, Eliphants Teeth, and other Things which these Countries of Couama produce, and the Cape of Courante, where these Pangais go.
[Page] Now, Don Cristoval de Porogne, alias Captain Mor, seeing these Pangais ready to depart, went with his Soldiers in Boats to take them, and bring them to Anchor along by the Gallions of the Fleet, which was near by: The which Don Estevan perceiving from the Fortress, was mightily offended at; but not having Soldiers sufficient to go Succour, and Recover his Pangais, he commanded his Canoniers to Fire upon the Pangais, to sink them, not careing for the Loss of his Merchandise; so he might but sink Captain More also, at least to do him some mischief: The Canoneer took his Aim, and was going to fire one of the great Canons: But as good fortune would have it, both for one and the other, nothing but the Priming took Fire▪ and hereupon the principal of the City of Masambique, ran in all hast upon the Ramparts to appease Don Estevan, who was resolved to sink them all, and promised him to procure the Pangais out of the Hands of Captain Mor.
The Reason that moved this Captain to do thus, was nothing but Mallice and Revenge, to make the Pangais [Page 230] lose the opportunity of the Voyage, to the no small damage of Don Estevan, to whom it had been above an hundred thousand Crowns Loss for that year, for as much as he could not have sent the Pangais at any other time to bring back the Profits which he uplifts every year from those Countries of Covama.
Besides, he had endured a long siege of the Hollanders in this place: At last the accord was made betwixt him and Captain More, and he sent his Pangais to their accustomed Traffick; but yet they still retained betwixt themselves a secret hatred, and ill-will; Since which time Ruy de Mello came to relieve Don Estevan of his Government; his three years being Expired.
This Country of Covama is the Finest of all Africa, from whence the best Gold is brought, and in the greatest quantity; insomuch, that the Captain of Mosambique during the three years that he Commands there, may carry away from Mosambique, Sofala, and Covama, above three hundred thousand Crowns, without reckoning that which he Pays to the Soldiers, and [Page] some Tibute which he renders to the Gold of Africa. King: While I was there I saw the Soldiers Pay, which was Gold in Powder, as it is found, giving every one so many Carats: This Gold is so yellow and pure, that our Pistol-Gold, and Crowns, seems to be but Copper thereto.
There dares none Traffick towards all this Coast of Mosambique without [...]. Licence of the Captain, who sends several Vessels to the Cape of Courrants, and to Covama, who return laden with the finest Ivory, for there the Eliphants are in abundance, and very great▪ They bring back also Amber-greace, and Gold, in liew of some small Ware which they give in Exchange to the Blacks or Cafres, who gather the Gold in the Field at the Foot of▪ certain Mountains, at such time as the Floods of Water come, which running from on high, forces down store of Gold in Powder; and then each Ethiopian hath his little Brook, with a little Net, made in the Fashion of a [...]ock for to catch Rabets withal, but wove more slender, with which they stop all this Gold-Sand running from the Mountains; [Page 231] They sometimes find great pieces of it, and very fine, as I have seen some of them at the Senior Francisco Meindi, Judg of the Orphans at Mosambique, and one of the Richest belonging to the Captain: This Piece weighed about half a Pound, and was Refined: But he kept that as a rarity, for such Pieces are not often to be found.
Now the time of our Embarkment drawing nearer, and nearer, which was [...]oss of the Ships. in the Month of March; I was not a little Joyful to quit this Desart Country, where I was ready to Dye for Hunger the most part of the time. As for the other Ships of our Fleet, I must not forget to tell that they were all cast away in their Voyage to the Indies.
And First, the Carraque, called, Nostra-Seniora d' Aiuda was lost upon the Coast of Ethiopia, where the most part of the Men Died of Violent Diseases which are incident to that Country, Strange Disease. and amongst others, a certain disease, which breaks out at the Fundament like an Ulcer, and is presently full of Worms, which Gnaw as far as the [Page] Belly, and so they die in great misery and torment: There hath been no better remedy found for this Disease, than the Juyce of Lymon, in washing therewith the Fundament; for that obstructs the Worms breeding there: I believe this Disease comes only by Drinking the bad Water which is there in great abundance▪
As for the Galion of the Holy Ghost, Galion of the Holy Ghost. they seeing the Water coming in upon them, with such great Violence, were forced to Sail back to Bresil, where being come, they sent into Portugal to know what they had best to do, whether to return to Portugal, or to persue their Voyage; they were commanded to proceed: Having Chaulked their Galion, they set sail for the Indies, and being at the height of Cape de Bonne Cape of Good-Hope. Esperance, they met with contrary Winds, and Tacking about from one side to the other, continually beating about the Sea, they could no longer hold out, and the Vessel struck a Leak in the Fore-Castle, which the Master seeing, he, together with the Captain and Pilot, cast out the Boat in haste, with a Barrel of Water and some Biscuit therein, slipping down themselves [Page 232] by a Rope; The Captain not being Pitious Accident of a Ship. able to hold so well as the rest, fell into the Sea, and they within were ready to cut of his Hands when he caught hold of the Boat; but one among the rest, crying out, 'twas the Captain, saved him: Several were kept off with Swords, and had their Hands cut as they laid hold on the Boat; There was but 16 Persons out of 300 saved. The Boat endeavoured to gain the Cape of Coarrants, and sailed above 400 Leagues before they arrived at the place designed▪ but in the end they came to Mosambique, and from thence to Goa, where I was told this accident.
The Galion of Good Jesus was taken by the Hollanders near Mosambique, and burnt, setting the Men at liberty.
The Carrack called the Palm was Mogincal▪ Woman-Fish. lost at Mogincal, where the Blacks Fish for Pisce Mulier, which is to say Women Fish: This Fish resembles a Woman, having the Privy Parts after the same manner, and carrieth her young under her Fins, which are on each side, serving for Arms, and goes often on Land, and is there disburthened of her young: The Blacks who Fish, are to swear not to have to do with these [Page] She-Fishes: Their Teeth are of great Virtue, (as I have experienced) against Hemorhoids, Bloody Flux, and hot Fevers, in rubbing them against a Marble, and agitating it with Water, and so to be Drunk. These Blacks are extream fond of these Fishes, and refresh themselves by having Communication with them. These Pisces Mulieres have a hideous Face, like the Snout of a Hog, and all the Body like a Fish.
These People also Eat human Flesh, for which they are called Macone: 'Tis Macone. said they drank the Blood of the Hollanders Barbarity of the Blacks. when the Portugals made a Salley out of Mosambique; And a Soldier of that place told me, that he saw a Black cut the Throat of a Hollander that remained upon the place, and swallowed down the Blood hot. They are very hardy and couragious in War, fearing neither Sword or Dart; yet there are some Cowards. The subjects of Monomotapa, when they kill any Strange Customs of the Blacks. of their Enemies, cut off their Privy-Members, and having dried them; give them their Wives to wear about their Neck, of which they are not a little Proud: For they who have the most are the most esteemed, in regard that [Page 235] Evidences the Husband to be the more hardy and valiant; They carry them before the King to declare where and when they purchased the same.
As for the Carrack called Oleveira, Oleveira Carrack. she was lost near the Isles Quemades, not far from Goa, being so close pursued by the Hollanders, that they were constrained to put out the Boat and save themselves by going a shore, setting Fire to their Ship.
The Carrack named the Salvation, was carried towards the Coast of Arabia to the Confines of the ▪Abassins, and was there also Shipwrackt. I believe this happened through the Villany of the Master and Pilot, who having a mind to Inrich themselves with the Money of private Persons, and the Cavedal, which is that of the King's for the lading of Peper, run purposely a ground upon the Coast: Then was it time for every one to save himself, taking with him his Money and Arms; not thinking to lade themselves with Victuals. The Master and Pilot agreed before to put the Money into the Boat, with some Victuals and Arms, and some of their Confidents, went to cross the [Page] Coast, passing the Red-Sea as far as the Persian Gulf, to recover Ormus: When this was known at Goa, they dispatch'd Gallies after them, and were taken towards Ormus, and brought Prisoners to Goa, whilst I was there.
The rest (who were about 400 white Strange Adventure of the Portugals in Ethiopia. Men and 300 Negro Slaves▪ set themselves in order to march along the Coast, and recover a certain Port of the Red-Sea, to Embark for the Indies: But as they marched with Colours displayed, and crying * Sautiago, thinking to make the Ethiopians afraid of them, but it fell out to the contrary: Insomuch that being fatigued with Hunger, Thirst and weariness, and troubled with the Enemy behind, every one was forced to shift for himself, and the hindermost were killed by the Ethiopians: The rest who saved themselves fell into the hands of a most barbarous King, who seeing so many Blacks of their own Nation Captives amongst these Portugals, Hypocritically told them, that if they would tender their Arms, they should receive no hurt; They believing that, and seeing themselves encompassed about on [Page 234] every side, delivered up their Arms, and presently this Abassin King caused them to be taken, and led one after another into a great place before his Pallace, and afterwards having stripped them stark-naked, ordered them to sit down in a Ring, and caused an Herald to Proclaim their Death, saying, that it was his Pleasure to have all their Heads chopt off before his People.
But it happened by chance that in the same Ship that was thus lost, there was a Persian Ambassador who had been sent into Europe from the great Sophy of Persia, to demand succour of the Christian Princes against the Turk. This Ambassador having been well received, and amongst others by the King of Spain, with noble and rich Presents, he returned in this Ship by the way of the Indies. I saw him at Lisbon march about the City in great State, and had his Turbant covered with precious Stones. Now this Ambassador, who saved himself among these poor Wretches, fell upon his Knees before the King, desiring, that he would please to give these Christians their Lives, seeing he had taken [Page] from them all they had, and suffer them to Embark in some Port of his Country; telling him amongst other things, that if he knew but the Power of Spain, he would not offer them the least Injury, and that their Prince was able in a little time to Ruin him. The King was a little pacified at these Words, and told the Ambassador that for his Sake he would give them their Lives, on condition they▪ would presently depart his Dominions, or else he would put them to Death.
The Portugals seeing this, were not a little glad to have their Lives saved, got away Naked as they were, and Embarked in a Ship of an Arabian, Trafficking upon the Coast of India, who gave them Victuals and Passage upon hopes to be recompenced at Goa; and being arrived, the Master came to demand his Hire and Charges, but Good Office ill requi [...]ed. was Laughed at. He came to the Viceroy Andre Furtade de Mendoce, but could not get any thing.
One of these Seamen that were saved being my Friend, told me, That the Master Cannonier mightily lamented the loss of a Stone of a strange Virtue [Page 233] and excellent Odour, for having it about Odoriferent Stone. him, he seemed to have a Scent of Musk and Ambergreece: The Virtue was such, that being Soaked in Water, it was an excellent Remedy against any Disease, and had experienced it upon several of their Men, who as soon as they drank of the Water wherein it was soaked, found themselves presently eased, and were cured according to the quantity which they took. The aptain would have given him a 1000 Duckets for it, but he would not take under 3 or 4000. He came by it one day as they made a Halt, taking his Harquebuss, and going about the Woods to shoot something to Eat, he found an Animal of the bigness of a Deer, but a little higher, who had two Horns below the Eyes, Animal carrying an excellent Stone. and had the fortune to shoot him in the Head: This Beast gave a leap to run upon him, but he fell down dead. He and his Companions cut him up to Roast him upon the Coals; and as he was going to Eat some of the Pluck, he found this Stone in a little bag, which at first he made no account of; but having washed it he found it of so curious [Page] and polished bright colour, and of so sweet a smell, that he kept it up carefully. The Coast of Ethiopia is full of excellent and odoriferous Herbs, and perhaps this Animal might feed thereupon, and that may be the cause of the Virtue of the Stone.
Thus was the greatest part of the Fleet lost: For of 14 Vessels there arrived but 4 at the Indies, with a Hulk which served us for a Patach, yet not without having the Masts broke in pieces. There was a Carracon of the Fleet which sailed back for Portugal.
But before we depart from this Coast of Africa, I will relate the strange Tragick Distory of Emanuel de Sosa. Sepulveda. Fortune which formerly happened to one Emanuel de Sosa, called Sepulveda, a Portugal Gentleman, and how he was lost upon this Coast of Ethiopia. This Gentleman, who was rich, being in the Indies, fell in Love with the Daughter of one Garsias Sola, Captain of Bombain, (a Fortress of the Portugals) esteemed one of the most Beautiful Ladies of the East, and had many great Suters to Marry her; But he not being able to bring his Designs to pass, because of her Father, who would [Page 236] by no means give his Consent, tho' the Daughter was very willing he resolved to rid himself of the Father, and for this cause parted one day from Goa, with some of his Sworn Companions, with whom he Embark'd, and coming late in the evening to Bombain, they watched their opportunity, so that they found this Captain walking along by the Sea, and there killed him. This was so secretly done that Sosa had no great trouble to attain to his Desires, Marrying this fair Orphan named Leonor, whom he brought to Goa; where having for some time lived in pleasure with her, and having two Children by her, he had a desire to go with his Family to Portugal, to obtain from the King some Preferment greater than that which he had in the Indies: And for this cause, having bought a good Ship, and being Embarked at Cochim, with his Wife and Children, a great many Slaves, and others of his Train, he sailed away; But coming towards the Cape of Currants, and their Vessel running a-ground, they were forced to save themselves in the Boat: They thought to have arrived at the Little [Page] Cafala, where the Portugals have a Fort; for the great one is towards Mosambique; but they found themselves in a Country betwixt the Cape of Currants and that of Good-Hope, where they were troubled with the Blacks of the Country along the Seaside. These Blacks not fearing the Harquebusses, killed a great number of them, the rest, amongst whom were Sosa, his Wife and Children, saved themselves by recovering the Country, and came at last into the Power of a King of these Blacks, who treated them very kindly; But when they departed from thence, as they Travelled towards Mosambique, they fell into the Hands of the Enemies of this King, who did them all the Injuries imaginable, in killing the most part, and striping the rest Stark-Naked: It was no small Grief to Sosa to see himself, his Wife and Children in this miserable Estate, wandering about the Desarts and Burning Sands of Ethiopia, without having wherewithall to Eat. Then began the just Judgment of God to fall on Sosa for the Murder of his Father-in-Law. He went up and [Page 239] down about the Woods seeking for Raisins to nourish himself, his Wife, and Children: But the greatest motive of Compassion was this poor innocent Lady, who seeing her self Naked, covered her self with Sand, that she might not be seen in this Condition, and made the greatest Lamentations imaginable, oftentimes telling her Husband, that their great Sins were the cause of so many Evils: But having continued some days in this Misery, after suffering the Death of her Children, overwhelmed with Grief, Hunger, and all sorts of Incommodities, was found dying by the wretched Sosa, returning from his Quest; yet he received her last Sighs, with Complaints and Lamentations of his loss; and knowing himself to be the cause of all these Misfortunes, went away like a Mad Man about the Woods, and was never after heard of. All the rest of his Company died after the same manner, except one Portugal, who with great difficulty escaped, and arrived at Mosambique, where he related this sad Story, of which the Portugals have made a Romance. They who have [Page] Writ of the East-Indies have made ample mention of this Tragical Accident of Sosa and his Wife, but they have omitted the Murder of his Father-in-Law, which was the occasion of drawing the Judgment of God upon him.
But before we leave these Blacks it will not be improper to speak something of their Language, because it's Language of the Blacks. different from all the other People of Africa. That of Mosambique is called Ethiopians, and can number no farther than Ten, and begin thus; Monti 1, Piri 2, Taton 3, Quinna 4, Chanon 5, Tandaton 6, Fongate 7, Nana 8, Quinda 9, Cohomy 10▪ They call the Head Mesora, the Ear Maro, the Nose Buonom: the Mouth Muromoiu, the Face Cohope, the Arms Menio, the Feet Mirengi, the Hair Cici, the Teeth Mannon, and so of other Things.
But to return to the 4 Ships which remained from the Shipwrack, viz. Our Lady of Mount Carmel, St. Jerome, St. Anthony, and St: Bartholomew, with which we parted from Mosambique, Departure from Mosambique from Goa. and set sail for Goa the 20th of March 1609. And having then put out to the Main Sea, the 23th of March we saw the Isle of Comba.
[Page 238] This Isle is very high, and is to be Combo▪ Isle. seen above 25 Leagues distance: After that, we passed the Line towards the Indies, the 5th of April, and the 12th, being at 4 Degrees on the other side the Line, we found an Arabian Ship Arabian▪ Ship. which came from Dia, and was going to Mecca; Our Vice-Admiral made towards her, saluting her with 2 or 3 shot of Cannon to make her strike sail; the which they would not do, until they saw the Bullets fly, then they lower'd their Sails, and came to us. The Captain came with 6 or 7 Arabians of good Fashion, carrying with him a Pass-port from the then Vice-roy of the Indies: The Captain seeing this Passport, durst not do them any harm, but having retained them 2 or 3 days, had great Presents from them, and sent to visit their Ship to see if there was any prohibited Goods therein, as Cinnamon, Cloves, and other things. There was about 700 Persons in the Ship, the most part Passengers, who were going in Pilgrimage to the Sepulcher of their Prophet Mahomet. This Ship was said to be worth above Two Millions, for there was nothing but Merchandize [Page] of Silk, and other curious and precious Things.
After this Encounter we passed the Mouth of the Red-Sea, near to the Isle of Socreta, on the 7th of May, and there Socoreta Isle. we had great Calms, which in regard of the want we were in for fresh Water, and other Necessaries, much troubled us. When we arrived at the Bar of Goa, we had but little Victuals left, and had we tarried but a little while longer we had all Died of Hunger: By the way we found a Ship which came from Chaoul, and was commanded by an Arabian: We commanded him with Cannon Shot to lower his Sails; for he would not obey at first; and being come on Board us, Captain Mor made him Prisoner at the Poop, where he was for some time; but having made some Presents to the Captain, he was let go, because he Traffick'd with the Portugals: We kept two of these Mariners to serve us for the knowledge of the Coast, if by chance we should meet with contrary Winds. One of these Mariners shewed me a Bird no bigger than a Linnet, and told me, it never stirred from the Sea, and [Page 237] never went on Land but when the Female Wonderful-Bird. laid her Eggs, she mounts up out of sight, and so lays her Eggs one at a time as she mounts up; after this Egg comes down tossing in the Air, which is very hot in that Country, before it falls into the Sea, 'tis Hatch'd; after which, the Sea nourisheth it; which I found to be very wonderful and rare in Nature.
The 26th of May 1609. we arrived Arrival▪ at Goa in the Indies. at Goa the Old, as they call it, and the 27th went on Land, being Ascension-Eve, to Dine at Pangin, before we should come to Goa.
As soon as the Fleet arrived there, the Kings Packet was published, which Andre Furtano Elected Vice-roy. was to be opened no where but at Goa, containing that in case the Vice-roy chanced to Die by the way, Senior Andre Furtado de Mandoze should be Elected; and if he was not there at that time, they should send for the Governor of the Isle of Seilan.
Andre Furtado having thus been received Reys-Magos▪ or the Church of the three Kings. for Vice-roy, I went to Reys-Magos, (which is the Church of the Cordelieres, where the Vice-roys commonly reside whilst Preparations are [Page] made for his Reception▪) to speak with him, and desire him to help me in my necessity: He made me answer that I should come to him when he was setled in his Government: But all this signified nothing, for I could never speak with him until such time as he sent for me to go with him to Portugal, being relieved of his Charge by Ruy de Talbe, who came the next year to Goa: He sent for me then by his Cup-Bearer, to come and speak with him at the Pass of Madre de Dios, half a League from Madre de Dio [...] or the Mother of God. Goa; the which I did, and told me, if I would go along with him to Portugal, he would content me; to which I willingly agreed.
I went to live in his House till we Embarkt, which was in January following: It was in November when he sent for me to this Pass, where there was a Captain who kept the Passage so that none could go into the Main-Land without being marked in the Hand, except those of the Country, and the Portugals, who must have the Licence of the Coregidor. I desired then this Captain from Andre Furtado, to give me an Almadie, with Mariners, [Page 240] and a Naique for Guide, which he willingly did, and recommended me mightily to this Naique, telling him that I went to look for Herbs for Andre Furtado, which was true, and accordingly brought some which served him for Fomentation of the Opelation of the Spleen. Passing then to the Main-Land, we went by these Places in the Habitations of the Gentlemen Bramenis; and having demanded some Water to drink at the House of one of these People, he gave me some, but stayed to see if I drank without touching the sides of the Cup, the which I knew not, and Drank without any Ceremony, which the Son of this Gentleman seeing, cried out as loud as he could to his Father, who was in a little place behind the House, who presently came running in great Ange, so that I was constrained to march of, and make clean the Cup by my Naique to appease them.
After that I passed by a Pagod or Temple, very well built, and entering therein I found one of the Natives stark-naked, adorning their Idol with Flowers, which had a Head like a [Page] Calf, when presently an old Woman amongst them cried out to me, Why I came in there with my Shooes; my Naique excused me in telling her that I knew not the Custom.
As for the Pay-gods, they have several Paygods. sorts of them; Some for War, others for Peace, and for Love, where the Maids coming to be Married, are brought to be Des [...]oured; and their Idol hath the Privy Parts like a Man. The Damsels, who serve these Paygods like the Vestal-Virgins, continue there from 10 to 20 years of Age, and Dance all night long, carrying lighted Lamps in their Hands, and go to Sleep round about their Idols. I saw there very beautiful Girls and Women They Marry their Daughters at 8 or 9 years of Age; when they are once past 12 or 13, they are not regarded, because they believe them to continue no longer Maids, considering the heat of the Country: At the end of 20 years, these Religious Women that Indian Women Religious. have thus served the Pay-gods, are kept in a certain place the rest of their Lives.
After I had gathered some Herbs which I had occasion for, we went to [Page 241] a little Habitation of Gentiles, where I demanded by my Truch-man, if they had any Victuals to give us for our Money, for there is no Inns or Taverns there; but there were some little Shops where they sold Fruit, and other things fit to Eat: These Gentiles having Compassion on me, there was a Woman, who put me under a Gallery of her House, where there was a Napkin full of Leaves and Plantane, accommodated with Thorns; then she threw me some Rice thereupon, with a certain Sauce which they call Caril, I Eat all this, and when I was about to Drink out of a little Vessel of Copper that they had given me full of Water, they began to cry out upon me, because I touched it in Drinking, for they never touch the Cup in Drinking, only heaving it up with the Server whereon it stands, and so Drink.
The Floor and Pavement of their Houses are composed with Cow-Dung, Ants troublesome. which they make look exceeding bright, and think that it keeps away the Ants, which are there in abundance; and they can keep nothing free from being destroy'd by these little [Page] Animals, to prevent which they have also Cupboards bore upon Piles, set in Vessels full of Water, where the Ants drown themselves by thinking to mount up. Near to this Habitation I found a great Tree, laden with Tamarins, of which I gathered a few: Tamarins. They had yet nothing but a sower Taste, I carried away the Husk, which are almost like French-Beans, but larger and greater.
Now as I returned by a very Desart Place, I saw some of these Gentiles running in great haste; and having caused my Truch-man to ask what ailed them, they answered, that their Father was gone to Drown himself, a little after I saw them return, bringing back their Father, and Comforting him after the best manner they could: He was troubled for some Misfortune that had happened to him. It is a common thing with these People to Drown or Poison themselves, or to Indians subject to Dispair. Die after some such way, when any Accident happens to them.
As for the Women, 'tis the Custom, that when the Body of their Dead Husbands are Burnt, they cast themselves [Page 242] into the Funeral Pile, and Burn Women who burn themselves. themselves, after being first adorned with their richest Accoutrements and Jewels, Dancing at the Sound of Instruments, and thus Die with a wonderful Constancy, speaking in the Fire to the very last: Those who do not this are held Infamous so long as they live, not daring to shew themselves before others, nor to appear before their Friends and Kindred. Such as have a weaker Courage Poison themselves, seeing their Husband Dead, and are Burnt together with him.
Tis remarkable that the Body of the Woman hath such an Oyley Property, that one Body will serve like Oil or Greese to consume the Bodies of 5 or 6 men. The Moors and Mahometans who inhabit the Main-Land of Goa towards Pichelin, do not allow this sort of Cruelty in the Women; but when they see they cannot obtain this favour, they Poison themselves.
This Custom of Burning themselves hath continued, as they say, ever since a certain Gentile King, who reigned amongst them; who seeing how all the Men of his Kingdom died, and knowing [Page] that it was their Wives which Poisoned them, to have other Husbands; and that those who had Children should continue alive to take care of them, but without Power ever to Marry again, instituted this: They observe this very strictly, and do nothing but Groan, Weep and Lament, during the rest of their Life; and at certain hours of the day and night, howl and lament after so strange a manner, that 'tis a great pity to hear them.
As for my part I was sometimes Deafened with the clamours and noise of some or other who had lost Husband or Children▪ I have heard a Bramin say, (who had turned Christian) that they who have lost a Child, mourn and lament 20 years entire: He told me also, that a certain Woman▪ of those who us'd to serve the Pay-gods, that after being retired into a House where they pass their time with Men, she entertained one who heated himself so with her, that he Died upon the spot, Resolution of a Lover. at which she was so afflicted, that when they Burnt his Body, she Burnt her self with him, seeing he had Died for Love of her, tho' she was no other than a good Friend.
[Page 243] As I returned from my little Voyage, I passed by a Valley where there was a very neat and pleasant Fountain, which came out from a [...]ock flat and hollow, and the Water which came out run through little holes in the Rock: 'Twas impossible to empty it, though there was but very little Water therein: For in taking out that which was there, more runs out, like a strong and active Spring: After this, I went to Embark at a Paygod, which is in a certain place along by the River, it being so deep that 'tis impossible to find the bottom. They have made there large and spacious Foolish Opinions of the Indians. Steps along by the side; and there the Gentiles come every year, 2 or 300 Leagues distant, to wash themselves at certain times, and sometimes there are assembled there above a 100000 Men, Women and Children, casting abundance of Fruit in this River, who believe that at the end of the year it comes again upon the Water. Thus Satan deceives them, for there are always some or other who tarry the [...] for security, who sometimes drown themselves out of a Pond Devotion.
[Page] As I Embarked by these Steps, I Another Voyage of the Author. returned to the Madre di Dios, from whence I set out about Dec. Then I made another little Voyage to the Main-Land of Pichelin, to procure some Pichelin. Drugs and other Rarities of the Country, and took again my Truch-man▪ with the Almadie, and the Mariners which the Captain of the Passage had given me, who having expresly commanded them to Obey me, and to conduct me where I had a mind to go.
We departed in a very fine evening, and travelled all night, the Moon shining, insomuch that we arrived at Pichelin, a very pleasant City, where is a great number of Gentile Merchants, and belongs to Dealcan, it being some 4 Leagues from Goa: We went to the Lodging of one Manate,▪ a Gentile, who received us kindly upon the Acquaintance he had with our Truch-man, and put me to lie under a little Pent-House, where an Indian Woman brought her Daughter to lie with me, as this Manate had counselled her; but this Girl not above 13 years of Age, seeing I would not touch her, sell to Weeping and Groaning, thinking to [Page 244] force me to have to do with her, and her Mother did all she could to appease her; I understood not the ground of all this Mystery.
The next morning, I saw a Jogue-Gentile, who was all perfumed with Incense, and stark Naked, squat upon his Tail before a Fire of Cow Dung, and with Ashes thereof all bepowered his Body, having long Hair like a Woman, which he held on the top of his Shoulders: This was the most hideous and monstrous Spectacle that Strange fashion of the Jogues. ever was seen: For he remained still looking on the Fire, without so much as turning his Head.
These sort of People are sometimes 4 or 5 days without any meat, and use extraordinary Abstinence: All these Gentiles, and especially the Bramins, never Eat any living thing, or that has had life, and will not taste of Red-Herbs, saying, that they have Blood in them; They Eat Rice and Milk, and call the Cow their Mother-Nurse. About the Desarts they have Hospitals where they Feed the Pilgrims that pass that way: When some rich Men Hospitals amongst the Indians. Die they leave something to the Hospitals.
[Page] To this purpose, I will relate what happened to one of my Friends, coming from the Kingdom of Pegu to Cochin: This was a Fleming, who was Married at Lyons, and had two Brothers Cochin. Married at Goa, to the Metices of Cochin: These 3 were taken in the Ship Good Jesus by the Hollanders, who put them on Shore; And as they came along by the Sea-side, they had but one pair of Shoes amongst them three, the which they wore by turns: He who wore the Shoes went upon Land, and the two others, bare-footed, went in the Water along by the Shore, not enduring the Soles of their Feet upon the Ground, it was so hot and burning at that time: They were ready to Die with Hunger and Thirst, not finding any thing to subsist upon in these Desarts: And being very weak, and in great Distress▪ they espied two Gentiles, who ran towards them, crying out to them to stay a little; but they not knowing what they meant, feared at first that it was to Rob them, but having nothing to lose, they resolved to tarry, and these Gentiles being come to them, courteously offered them Meat Courtesie of the Indians [Page 245] and Drink, for which they thanked them, saying, they had no Money to pay for it: They spake by Signs▪ not being able to make them understand otherways: But these Gentiles pointed towards Heaven, as if they would have said, 'twas God who commanded them to do thus; so that these 3 easily consented thereto, and afterwards pursued their Voyage: This shews how these Gentiles are content when they find occasion to do good to poor Travellers, they being all very pious People, who endure all sorts of Ignominy and Injuries, such Lovers are they of Peace and Tranquillity. This Goodness and natural Humanity of these poor Idolaters, abused in so many other things, is an excellent Lesson for Christians instructed in the True Religion, which they make so little account of, since the Natural Light of these blind Infidels, shames the Super-natural Gifts of those who profess Christianity.
After I had gathered together, and bought all the Drugs and other Things which might be of any use to me, I began to think of my return with my Truchman and Mariners; and going [Page] along the Coast, which was very green, pleasant, and abounding in all sorts of Plants; When I saw any Herb which pleased me, I commanded them to fetch it.
The Portugals put a thousand Affronts upon these poor People, and sometimes they make shew as if they would kill some Bird, or other Animal, Indians kill not Animals. which these Gentiles have pity on, and presently buy them to set them at liberty: Yet since they have found out that the Portugals do this on purpose to have their Money▪ knowing their bad Intention, they buy not these Animals as they were wont to do.
When a Portugal has a mind to have Rude Comportment of the Portugals towards the Indies. some new Cloths, he makes no more ado but goes to the Shop of an Indian, with a Tailor, and there chooses his Stuff; then orders it to be cut out in his presence, and when it comes to be paid, he bids the poor Gentile follow him to his Lodging to take his Money, where being come, he pretends that his Companion, who has the Key of his Chest, is not there; and so the other whatever he can say or do, can have nothing of him but this excuse: And [Page 246] 2 or 3 days after, the Portugal tells him he owes him nothing: They use the same Tricks to all other Merchants, and Tradesmen: They have done as much to me, when I have paid any thing for them; for some time after they made as if they knew me not: Yet it ought not to be thought strange if they do thus in the Indies, since they play the same Pranks in Lisbon it self; where one of my Hosts told me, that one day having Dressed up a Hat for a Castilian, and asking him for his Mony, shewed him a Pistol cockt, telling him, if he had a mind to be paid, he must follow him into Flanders, where he was going, and this was all he could get.
As soon as they arrive at the Indies, Nature and Quality of the Portugals in the Indians. they make themselves Gallants, calling themselves Fidalgues, or Gentlemen, tho they be but Peasants and Tradesmen: They themselves relate, That a certain one among them named Fernando, who had kept Hogs in Portugal, coming to the Indies, and adding 3 Letters to his Name, caused himself to be called Don Fernando, and was in a little time so well known and esteemed amongst the Women Metices, that one having chosen [Page] him for her Servant, she caused him to Ride about with a Chain of Gold about his Neck, and a great many Slaves after him; But one day it happened that his Master's Son, whom he had served in his own Country for a Swine-heard, Portugal Pride. having met him in this Rich Equipage, riding about the Streets of Goa, saluted him, saying in his own Language, Deos Guarde de Fernando Como Esta; which is to say, God save ye Fernando, how goes it: But the other making shew as if he knew him not, ask'd, who he was; to which the other made answer, Was not he the same who formerly kept Hogs for my Father; This Gallant hearing this, drawing him aside, told him, he was, and was here called Don, and was looked upon as a great Gentleman, praying him to hold his peace, and gave him Money; yet this hindered not his being known by several, who made their own profit thereof.
But since I am fallen upon this Discourse, I will add, that when these Portugal Soldiers first arrive at the Indies, wearing their Country Cloths, those who have been there a long time [Page 247] before, when they see them walk about the Streets, call them Reipol, laden with Lice, with a thousand other Jeers and Affronts: When I was there, these Newcomers durst not stir out of their Lodgings until they were dress'd like the other Indians; And then they know them no longer, using Majestick Gravity, and observing the Sossiego, after the Spanish manner, always having their Boy, who carries their Parasol, or Cloak; without which they dare not come out of their Lodging, except they have a mind to be esteem'd Picaro's, or poor miserable Wretches; as in truth they are to those who know them: As long as they are there, instead of vile and base, as they be, they esteem themselves all Fidalques and Noblemen, changing their more obscure Names to more Illustrious: I knew one who Enrolled himself for the War, and he changed his Name 3 or 4 times, as 'twas found out by the Secretaries and Registers of Goa.
When they hear of any one that knows them, they are so wicked as to send to ask whether he knew such a one or not, and who he was, of what [Page] Cast or Race, and if noble and honourable, so that if the other answers, that he is some Picaron, or miserable Fellow, this Friend reports it to the other, and then for meer Spite, complots with his Associates against him who has told this Truth, and meeting him in the City at their advantage, give him so many Blows that they kill him, or leave him for Dead: This is the cause that one must take care how he tells the Truth of such who are enquired after: But on the contrary, if they tell all the glorious Things in the world of him, of his Nobility, Valour, Power, and other Qualities, tho' never so false; Then he of whom all this is meant, coming to meet the other, immediately salutes him, Embraces his Thigh, and prays him always to say the same of him, and that he is wholly at his Service, ready to reward him with his Life and Fortune.
When they have a mind to d'Accouchillar, or Slash any one with their Revenge of the Portugals. Swords, they send Notes to their Friends to desire their assistance against one who has offended them: If he to whom this Note is sent does not come, [Page 248] and excuses himself, because such an one is his Friend, they cry him about for a faint-hearted Coward; and 'tis he on whom they will wrack their Revenge, if he has not a care of himself▪ These are the Actions at this day.
One day standing at my Lodging Door in the Street of the Crucifix, I saw two Companies of Soldiers, the one coming from the Misericordia, and the other seeming from the Cordeliers, and drawing nigh one to the other, laid hands upon their Swords with great fury, but the Rascals did one another no harm, being the numbers were equal: But when 10 or 12 meets with one or two, then you shall see them do wonderful Exploits.
There was one amongst the rest, who to shew himself a Champion, challeng'd another to fight him hand to hand, who appear'd but plainly with his ordinary Arm [...]: But the other wicked and false wretch, carrying with him a Harquebuss, presented it to give Fire, at which the first cryed out that he should kill him like a man of Valour, and not like a Coward▪ yet he would not hearken to this, but told him, that [Page] if he had a mind to have his Life given him, there was one thing he must do, and the other demanded, what it was; this Wretch who had his piece cockt, told him that he must deny Jesus Horrible Trick. Cbrist, which the other having basely done, he firing, said to him, get thee the right way to Hell, and so parted.
'Tis impossible to tell the Wickedness, Insolencies, and Irreverences they Irreverence in the Churches. commit in the Churches during Divine Service; which I have often seen, whilst they were saying Mass at Goa, hearing them speak out aloud, and crying so to one another, that none could hear any thing of the Service, making all that noise in the Indian Language, and bawling as if they were in a Fair, or in the Fields; and some will send their Slaves to fetch their Escritorio to take some Letters out Escritorio to shew: Then when they see the Holy Sacrament raising, they give themselves 3 or 5 blows upon the Breast, and presently fall again to Bawling, Laughing, and Mocking as before: There is nothing amongst them but Usury, Covetousness, Theft, and strange Oaths, and such that the [Page 249] most subtile might be cozened and deceived.
I have remarked that they have a sort of Honour amongst them, when they meet about the Streets, the lesser Manner of Saluting. number gives way to the greater, and if they are but two, they must begin to Salute 3, when they meet 'em, and so of the others▪ And indeed I was once so deceiv'd; for, being in the company▪ of 2 or 3 of them, as we met with two others, not knowing their fashion, I began to Salute them first, for they were of my acquaintance; but the others check'd me for it, saying, I knew not the Custom, and for the future must take care how I did the like.
They go in the night, with their Robberies at Goa. Carpausses, which are Dresses for the Head, after the manner of a Coat, plucking up and down the Vizard when they please; and about Supper-time go away to such Houses where they know there is something to take, knocking at the Door if 'tis shut, and enter if they find it open, their Faces hid, asking for the Master of the House, they demand of him to lend them 2 or 300 Cheraphins, otherways they will Kill him, and so carry away the best Things in the House▪
[Page] A Portugal Gentleman related to me how he had been thus Robb'd by that sort of People, as he was going to Supper; For his Slave having opened the Door upon their telling him they had a word or two to say to his Master, entering in by force, and leaving one at the Door, took at the first bout all the Plate which was upon the Table, demanding of him 200 Cheraphins if he had a mind to have them again, which he gave them, and so they went away. If the Justice goes to take them, they have great Bags of Cannon-Powder, with Matches tied about them, threatning to throw them amongst those who offer to approach the Door.
The Portugals are grown so extream jealous of their Wives that you must Jealousie of the Portugals. not so much as look them in the Face; and if they see them but speak to any one, they presently Strangle or Poison them; and when they have Strangled them, they call their Neighbours to their Succour, saying, that a Swooning Fit has taken their Wife upon the Chair; But they never come again to themselves: Sometimes they send for a Barber to Blood them, saying, that they are not well; When the Barber is [Page 250] gone away, they undo the Fillet, and let he Blood run out until the poor miserable Creature dies; and then also they call in the Neighbours, to see as they say, what a sad Disaster has happened to their Wife in Sleeping.
Others there are who take their Wives with them to Bath in some Brook or Pond, and there make them Drink their Belly full; and a little while after, send their Slaves to look for their Mistress, whom they find Drown'd, which the Husband knowing before, seems to be▪ mightily astonished and grieved at.
Thus in different ways, they make away their Wives, on the least suspicion, and afterwards relate the Story amongst one another: There are some who have thus made away 3 or 4 Wives.
But the Women also, when they think their Husbands entertain any other, rid themselves of them by Poison, or otherways, and make much use of the Seeds of Datura, which has a strange Virtue; Datura Poison. This Datura, or Dutroa, a sort of Stramonium, is a great and high Plant, bearing white Flowers, like the Cisampelos, Cisampelos. but larger. Now he who takes too great a quantity thereof, Dies in a little time, laughing and weeping like a Fool. [Page] Thus the Women who have particular Friends, gave of this Herb to their Husbands, mixing therewith other Drugs, which is such that the poor Husband falls into a Fury, and Raving, snatches Strange Actions. up a Pike or Hallberd to guard the Door, without saying a word to such as come either in or out: Then the Seniora or Lady, sends for her Gallant, and passes the time in presence of the Husband until the Operation of the Drug (which continues about 24 hours) is over: He who has taken it, not remembring what he has seen or done, so mightily are his Thoughts and Mind agitated and troubled with this Herb.
As for the Slaves, 'tis pity to see the Cruel Chastisement to the Slaves. cruel Chastisements they give them▪ For they run them through with double Irons, then give them with a Cudgel, 500 blows at a time, and make them lie along the ground on their Belly, and then comes two, who by turns strike the poor Body as a Log of Wood, the Master Portugal or Metice being present, counts the Blows with his Rosaire: And if by chance they who thus strike are not strong enough to his mind, or have an inclination to spare their Companion, he causes them to be [Page 251] put in the place of the Patient, and to be soundly banged without any Mercy.
As I was in my Lodging at Goa, I heard nothing but Blows all the night long, and some weak Voice, which Breathed a little, for they stop their Mouth with a Linnen Cloth, to hinder them from crying out. After they have been well beaten, they cause their Bodies to be sliced with a Razor, then rub it with Salt and Vinegar for fear it should Fester.
They have another sort of punishment which they call Pingar Viue, which Cruelty of the Portugals. is to drop Lard put into a red hot Pelle, upon the Body of the poor Patient, stark naked and lying upon his Belly. The Parents of these miserable Wretches are sorry they brought them into the World, to feel such Torments, which pierces them to the very Entrails.
I have sometimes seen part of these Barbarous Cruelties which afflicted me so much, that I have still a horrour when I think thereof. There was one day a poor Indian Girl, who came running to my Lodging, crying out for help, and praying me to be a means to obtain Mercy; but I could not save her, to my great Sorrow; For she was [Page] taken and laid all along on the Ground and Bastinadoed without pity.
There was a Metice Woman who had by these horrible Chastisements killed 5 or 6 Slaves, which she caused to be Buried in her Garden; And one day as she ordered another to be thus punished, he who gave her the Blows going to leave off, the miserable Creature in the mean time Died; and when [...], i.e. [...]ive it her [...]ive it her, [...] an old [...]x. he told his Mistriss that she was Dead; no, no, she answered, she counterfeits, Daly Dalyes, Rapose Veille, that is to say, Lay on, lay on, 'tis an old Fox.
Another had a Slave who was not vigilant enough; and ready to rise when she called her, her Mistress caused an [...]heard of [...]. Horse-Shooe to be nailed upon her Back, insomuch that the poor Creature died some time after, the place thus abus'd being invaded by a Gangreen.
Another, for not being nimble enough, had her Eye-Lids sowed to her Eyebrows, which had like to have cost her her life, her Face being swell'd so.
One day I heard another young Indian or Chinese Woman, who was Chastised after the same manner, the blows sounding very loud, but she did nothing but groan, so low that one [Page 252] could scarce hear her very cry, saying, Ja Ja Me Signoe: I then demanded of Ja ja mi Senior. my Host's Brother, what it was, who told me, 'twas a Slave a Chastising, and that she would have three times as much if she complained, and that this was nothing to what others endured; and that there was another of them who was hanged in a Chamber by the Hands, for 2 or 3 days together, and that for a very small matter, as for letting fall some Milk as he thought; Portugals without Compassion. for they would have made him believe he drank it: And having asked him if they ever let him down to give him any thing to Eat, he told me, no, but some times, as a great favour, would let him a little lower, just to give him a little Rice sopt in Water, and presently hoise him up again: But that this would not be all, for after that he would be well Bang'd, and that they only tarried for his absence, that they might begin again this cruel Chastisement.
He told me also, how his Brother, who was Master of the Lodging, having one day bought a Japan Slave, a beautiful Girl, and how in Dineing with his Wife, he happened to say in Jesting, that this Slave had exceeding White Teeth,
fall [...] it; So that I was forced to let them alone▪ For 'tis not the custom there to [...]. succour such, except one has a mind to [...]ight and be killed by them afterwards, so mischievous and perverse is this Nation; Insomuch that a Portugal-Gentleman being in bed with his Wife, in the Night Dreamed that she commited Adultery with one of his Friends, after he was awaked, he was so Transported with Rage and Jealousy, that he killed her at that instant with his [...] Portugal Poynard as she slept, and then fled away to the main Land of Goa, and from thence to the Court of Dialcan; in whose service he put himself, in the City of Isapor. For this King seeing him a Cavallier of good fashion, received him into his service, giving him means to entertain himself, and to be Lodged near his own person, and also hoping to make him deny the Law of Jesus Christ; and embrace that of Mahomet, he gave him one of his Sisters in Marriage, but for all that the Portugal would never Apostatize whatsoever Dialcan or his Sister could do, which this Prince seeing, was resolved to put him to Death; But she having notice of it advertised her Husband [Page 254] thereof, advising him to save himself with all possible speed, and he asking her if she would follow him, she made Answer that she willingly would with all her heart; so that one Night having provided a great Number of precious stones and other Riches, with two good horses, they set out upon the high way, and made such haste that they soon arrived at Pichelin, and from thence passed to Goa where this Cavalter so ordered the business by Friends and Money; that he had his Pardon for the Murder he committed upon his first Wife, excusing himself to the Justice that she had dishonoured her self.
In the mean time, Dialcan seeing the next Morning that neither this Portugal, nor his Sister came to [...]isit him as they were wont to do, soon doubted of the business, and having understood that they were fled, sent a great Number of Horsemen after, to catch them, but all in vain, for they were already out of his reach: This mightily vexed Dialcan an Enemy to th [...] Portu▪ the Prince, and caused him to be a greater Enemy to the Portugals, than ever he formerly was: For they have no greater Adversary than he, who hath several times befieged them at Goa, but [Page] at present they have made truce together, and I saw an Ambassador from him at Goa, when Andre-Furtado commanded there, who Marched about the City in great Pomp and Magnificence, after the Moorish Indian manner.
I saw also other Ambassadors from [...] Go [...]. Pegu, and Calicut, and it was a very fine sight to see them March, in order with their Guards about the streets, who carried Bows and Arrows in their Palanquns, going with this Ceremony to find out the Vice-Roy in behalf of the Kings their Masters, to confirm the Peace in their Ports and Coasts, as far as their power permitted 'em to do. But Andre-Furtado, being Exasperated against the King of Pegu, would not so much as read his Letters, but tore them, telling the Ambassadour that he would come and visit him within a few days; and that he remembered how he had given Port, and entertainment to the Hollanders their Enemies, [...] of Andre-Furtado. against what had been concluded upon by the Peace and accord made betwixt them: And that he had also an intention to visit the King of Achin in Sumatra, for he had also received the Hollanders into his Ports to Traffick, tho [Page 255] he at the same time knew that they were their Sworn Enemies: The Ambassadour of Pegu▪ was not a little ashamed at this reception, to see himself thus rejected of the Vice-Roy, and returned very sad and discontented to his Master: These designs of Andre-Furtado were never effected, for not long after came an other Vice-Roy, who was more intent in filling his Coffers than the War, during his 3 years, which is commonly worth to them above six hundred thousand Crowns; especially those who cruelly Tyranize over the poor People.
As for Andre-Furtado, he had done [...] qualities of Andre [...]. great exploits in the Wars of the Indies during his Life, and had acquired such Renown that all the Kings, as well Gentiles, as Mahometans, trembled for fear when they heard that he was declared Vice-Roy: He had taken and chained a King Named Cognale, very strong and puissant, whom he led to Goa, where he had his head choped of, bringing thereby no small terrour and fear upon all the People of the Indies.
He had also given Testimony of his valour against the King of Achin, when he bravely besieged him in the City [Page] of Achin in Sumatra, and I have oftentimes heard him relate this exploit, Siege of Achin▪ when I returned from the Indies with him, telling me amongst other things how in this siege, there came such multitudes of Sumatrans upon him, that not being able to resist with so few Men, as he had, he was forced to raise the siege; but after such a manner that he first embarked all his Canon, and then the most part of his Men, by little and little, not making any shew of retiring, but leaving some of them all the while to skirmish; himself encouraging them to stand briskly to it, and to retire themselves gradually and orderly towards the Sea: Insomuch that he ordered the business thus, that he carried of and embarked all his Men, as well Dead, as wounded and sound, and was himself the last Man that embarked; thus dexterously deceiving the Enemies, who questioned not but to have had them all that same day in their Power.
He told me also of the memorable siege of Malaca, which he had defended, Clege of Malaca. being then Captain against the whole Holland-fleet, and about 14 thousand Gentiles, there being ten or twelve [Page 256] Kings of those Countries, at that time Naval sight twice the Portugals and Hollanders assembled there with them, and how the Hollanders had Landed a great Number of huge pieces of Canon for Battery, wherewith they fired without intermission: In short▪ he was besieged both by Sea and Land, without any hopes of Succour, not having 50 white Men with him in this fortress, where he was forced to watch Day and Night, which had caused him to have a dangerous Distemper, of Melancholly an Oppilation of the Yellow Jaundies for some space, and yet every where giving such good orders, he had remained Vanquisher of all his Enemies, until such time as to Succour him, came the Vice-Roy, Dom Martin-Alfonce, who hearing thereof, at the siege of Achin, where he was, immediately hastened thither with all his Fleet; of which the Hollanders being soon advertised, presently reimbarked their Canon, and the Indian Kings were retired each one into his own Country: But in the mean time the Army of the Hollanders being come to encounter that of Portugal, and thundering their Canons at one another, setting fire to each others Ships, [Page] burning some and sinking others. But in the end after a long fight and great loss on either side, the Vice-Roy saving himself from the conflict, had fled to Malaca, where he died of sickness and grief: Thus much this Valiant Captain Andre-Furtado related to me a little before his Death at our return; being then at the hight of St. H [...]lens, for I took care of him in his Sickness, and being retired into his Chamber, discoursed with his Gentlemen and Soldiers of all his Wars, Adventures and Conquests in the Indies; and I certainly believe that had such a Man continued Vice-Roy, a little longer there, he would have amplified the Christian Faith amongst these Infidels.
It was told me amongst other things, that in this Naval Fight of Malaca, there was a Portugal, Captain of a Galion, named Louis de Sosa, who escaped from the Fight, and flying away with the first, left his Ship, and sav'd himself in the Boat on Land: Then he made such hast that he arrived in the night time at Goa, without making himself known; and entering his House, his Wife being in Bed, whether he suspected she played false, or for some other cause, [Page 257] he ran his Sword quite through her Body, she casting her self at his Feet, desiring him to have a care what he did, but this softned not his cruel Courage, for all that he left not off his purpose, shewing himself more cruel to his Wife than the Hollanders his Enemies; after having left her Dead upon the place, he fled to the Main-Land, and tarried till all was quiet, and then returned to Goa.
Since, as I returned from Reys Magos, with one of his Servants, who had put the Irons about my Neck at Mosambique, being then Merigne, or Serjeant of the Ship, but afterwards at Goa, had put himself into the Service of this Louis de Sosa, arriving both together very late at Goa, I went to Sup at the House of the said Sosa, who made me very welcome, upon the acquaintance he had with this Servant; and desired me also to visit a Nephew of his, who had a Wound with a Pike in the Groin, when he went to see the Women; 'Twas then I learnt the History of this Louis de Sosa of my Host, who told me several other things, too tedious to relate.
But since I am upon the Discourse of the cruel and strange Deportments of the Portuguese at Goa, and of the rest of [Page] the Indies, I will relate some Histories that happened in or before my time.
A Portugal Soldier falling in Love Tragi [...]l History of a Portugal Soldier. with a young Woman at Cochin, Daughter to a Portugal Married there; he so bestirred himself that he accosted a Maid Slave of the House, telling her, he was of a very good Family, and mightily Enamoured with her Mistress, and entreated her to acquaint her of his good VVill and if it was possible, so to order the business that he might speak with her▪ The Slave gained by VVords, but more especially by Presents, which is the best means in those Countries to have what you please with the VVomen, gave her Mistress to understand that a Gallant young Portugal Gentleman was mightily Enamoured of her, and ready to Die for Love▪ The young VVoman allured with this discourse, was mighty curious to know who he was, and how he came to see her; for in that Country the Maids and VVomen of Quality are seldom seen, for they go about the City in Palanquins: At last, she so ordered the Business, that her Mistress promised to speak with him at a certain hour in the night, which being come, the young Portugal having discoursed [Page 258] with her of his amorous Passion, she was no less enflamed than he, being of an Age fitting to pass her time, and in a Country so hot, that where any Man can only have the means to speak with a Woman or Maid, he is sure to obtain of them what he desires, if the least occasion present it self: In short, they both resolved to fly away together in some clear night, with the Woman Slave, which they after perform'd, and the young Woman taking her Rings, Jewels, and store of Silver, they Embarked for Goa, where being come, and having taken a Lodging somewhat private, they there for some time led a very pleasant Life: But the Soldier, who was mightily addicted to Gaming, soon found an end of what his Mistress brought with her, and beginning to be a weary of her, he conspired the Death of these two Women, seeing they had no longer wherewithal to keep him in his Rioting; and having sent the Slave into the City, he Strangled the Mistress, and hid her; and the Slave returning, he did the same to her, and Buried them in a private place in the Lodging. These Murders continued a long time without being known, until the same Wretch [Page] was taken for another Crime, and Condemned to be Hanged, as he was upon the Ladder, he confessed this lamentable and cruel Tragedy, which mightily astonished all the People, and heaped an eternal Regret upon the Disconsolate Father, who had made search in every place for his dearly Beloved Daughter▪
I saw another at Goa, who often came to the Lodging where I was, who suspecting that his Wife had played a false trick with a Mate of a Ship, so watched his opportunity, basely disguising himself, Another Tragical Act. that he caught the other near the Church of Misericordia, and Stab'd him with a Kni [...]e in the Groin, when he was not at all thinking of him; tho' he had notice enough of the other's intention; and for this cause wore a Coat of Mail, with two Pistols▪ but that stood him in no stead: For the Indian was more nimble in Stabing, than he to avoid it; and from thence went straight home to his House, to do as much to his Wife also, who was soon advertised of the Death of her Friend, and seeing no way to save her self, her Husband being already come to the Door, out of Dispair, she cast her self out of the Window, where he receiving her upon the point [Page 259] of his Sword, left her stark-dead on the place, then he retired into the Main-Land, until they had need of Soldiers at Goa; for there are Edicts and Proclamations of Pardon made for all those who are accused of any Crime whatsoever, so that they may return securely to their Houses: Such is the Justice of those Countries, where they kill one another for every small trifle.
If they have a Quarrel with any one of low Condition, and but little Credit, they take not the trouble to be Revenged upon them themselves, but send their Slaves to Slash or Cudgel with a Bamboo, those who have not saluted them very low, or unawares have not taken of his Hat before them: They are Covetous of such Vanities, with which they feed themselves very much.
To this I will add that of the Daughter of the King of Siam, who having a White Elephant, a thing very rare in the Indies, the King of Pegu his Neighbour, made cruel War upon him to have him, and had him in the end, overcoming Adventure of the Daughter of the King of Siam. this King of Siam, whose Daughter was taken in the War, and carried Captive to Goa, where I have often seen her, she being then not very [Page] young, and came to see my Hostess, who was a Chinese, for they were great Friends, and commonly Eat with us, comforting her self at the recital of her Miseries, and how she had been sold to a great Portugal Lord by one of those of Pegu, who had first taken away from her all her Jewels and precious Stones, she not being then above 8 or 9 years of Age; altho' great search had been every where made for her, but that the Soldier not having a mind to discover her, for fear of being constrained to restore all these Riches, had come to sell her to the Portugals, her Father's great Enemies, who also uses them no better when he can catch them: For some of them he causes to be put starknaked Cruelties of the King of Siam. in Frying-Pans of Copper, upon the Fire and thus to be roasted by little and little: Others he causes to be put betwixt two great Fires and set down, and thus to Die in Torments; others, he exposes in the Park of his Elephants to be crushed and knocked down by by them, and a thousand sorts of barbarous Cruelties, which he exercises upon these poor Portugals.
This King of Siam once having a mind to make War upon another King [Page 260] his Enemy, was resolved to send for some of the greatest Lords of his Kingdom to be Commanders of his Army; But some making shew as if they were▪ Sick, by the Counsel of their Wives, who could not endure them out of their sight, of which the King being advertised, sent for these Women, and having caused their Privy Parts to be cut▪off, and to be fastned upon their Husbands [...]trange Cruelties. Foreheads, he caused them thus to walk about all the City, and then to have their Heads choped of.
This same King hearing that, his Concubines exercised amongst them the Sin against Nature, with Counterfeit Members, he commanded them to come before him, and having caused every one to have a Viril-Member to be painted upon their Thigh, forced them thus to go about the Streets, and than commanded them all to be burnt: Thus you may see what cruel Punishments these Gentile Kings exercise without Pity upon those whom they have a mind to be Revenged on.
It was a Chinese, named Joan-Pay, Secretary to Don Andre Furtado, who related to me all these Histories, to which I will add what was told me in those [Page] Countries of the Kingdom of Pegu, next to that of Siam, where had happened some years since the most strange and prodigious thing in the world: Some Sorcerers and Witches so, ordered the matter with the King of Pegu, that he took such a hatred against his Subjects, that he was resolved utterly to root out and extirpate them; to bring this to pass, he expresly commanded that none on pain of Death should either Plough or Sow the Land for the space of 2 or 3 years. The Ground having thus continued Incultivated for some years, without Reaping any thing, there fell out such scarcity and necessity amongst these poor People of Pegu, that having consumed all their Victuals, and all Horrible Famine. other things fit to be eaten, they were forced after the manner of the Anthropophages, to Eat one another. And what was most prodigious and terrible, and never before heard of, to keep publick Shambles of the Flesh of those they could catch about the Fields, the strongest Killing and Massacring their Companions to have a share of them; insomuch that they went to hunt after Men as some Savage Beasts, and made Parties and Assemblies for this end. During [Page 261] this horrible Famine, the People of the Kingdoms round about being advertised of this extream necessity, equipped a quantity of Vessels laden with Rice, and other Victuals, which they brought to Pegu, and sold it there for what they pleased: Amongst the rest, there was a Merchant of Goa, who arriving there with a Boat laden with Rice, as he went Sad History of a Peguan Damsel. from House to House to put off his Merchandize, taking for payment, Money, Slaves, or other things they could give him: He happened upon a House where they had not wherewithall to Buy so much as a Measure of Rice, and yet ready to Die with Rage and Hunger, but they shewed this Merchant an exceeding Beautiful Woman, whom her Brethren and Sisters had a mind to sell for a Slave for certain Measures of Rice; the Merchant offered 2 Measures, or Bushels, and they would have 3, Remonstrating, that if they killed this Girl, the Flesh would last them and nourish them much longer than his Rice; At last, when they could not agree, the Merchant went his way, but no sooner was he gone, than they killed this young Woman, and cut her to pieces: But the Merchant being not a little [Page] enamoured with this Maid, and besides having Compassion of her, mightily desired to save her life, soon returned again to give them for her what they demanded: But he was mightily astonished and sorry when they shewed him the young Woman in pieces, telling him that not thinking he would return, they did it to satisfie Hunger: Such was the end of this Peguan Damsel, and many others had the same Fate. This Merchant-related this Tragedy to one of my Friends, who passed from Portugal to the East-Indies in the Galion of Good-Jesus.
Now to return to those of Siam, the cause why the King of Siam so barbarously uses the Portugals, is, that they Cru [...]lties of the Portugals▪ use the same Treatment towards his Captive Subjects. I have seen one of them at Goa, above 90 years of Age, a Joyner by Trade, and Slave to a Portugal Gentleman, to whom this poor Man was forced to render every day to the value of two Tangues, whether he wrought or no; and went thus to seek work about the City, with his Tools: My Host having one day called him to make something for him, he told me all the Cruelties which was used against [Page 262] him: For when he failed to pay his two Tangues, his Master tied him like a Beast to a Stair-Case, and gave him so many Blows with a Stick, that he left him bruised and maimed; and told me that he had been a Slave for above 40 years, and had gained his Master good Money; and yet he gave him to live upon but a measure of Rice raw every day, without any other thing, as they do to all the other Indians, and sometimes two Baseruques, (which are some two Deniers) to have some Caril to put Miseries of the Slaves. amongst the Rice.
Thus you may see, how these Slaves live, witho [...] either Bread or any other Meat but [...] boiled in Water; insomuch that several die with Hunger and Work: They lie upon the Ground, on little Esteres, or Matts, made of Bullrushes, or the Bark of Trees.
The Portugals acquire much Reputation of making good Christians; for having caused them to be Baptized, they thus make them Die miserably: Also the Japans knowing their Letchery and insatiable Avarice, seem to have had some reason for their rising against them: For these, who are a subtile and wary People, seeing that the design of the Portugals, [Page] after having made them Christians, was to dispossess them of their Lands and Goods by all Inventions; therefore they did not care for their Amity, much less did they desire 'em to Domination of the Portugals what? Govern, and this perhaps was one of the causes that they have Martyred so many Jesuits who were utterly innocent of all this: For these Japans are mightily Jealous of their Wives, and the Japans jealous. Portugals had no other aim but to gain them, especially those of the greatest, with whom afterwards they do what they please; which was the reason that moved these People to so much Cruelty.
I have found out in the Indies, that the Whoredoms, Ambition, Avarice, and Greediness of the Portugals, has been one of the chiefest causes why the Indians become not Christians so easily: This is the Reason why the People of the Portugal Churches, who are in those parts, mightily desire some French, Dutch, or Scots to be with them, because these People lead a life less impure and scandalous; which is the thing that most chiefly maintains and upholds Religion in that part of the World. I Religion how and by what maintained have there known a Father Jesuit of the Country of Artois, who lived in Salsete, [Page 265] which is a little Isle not far from the main Land, depending upon Goa; he was there as Curate in a great Parrish, and understood very well the Indian Tongue: But afterward the Jesuites took him from thence to send him to Chaoul; and I then saw the poor People of his Parish, who mightily lamented that they had lost him, some saying that they had rather have had their Arms cut off, than have seen him taken away from them: For they feared to have some Portugal, who would Tyranize over them.
Thus ye may see what honest Men can do amongst the very Infidels, who know how to discern the good from the bad.
As for the Father Jesuits, they pass as far as China to make there some fruit, Jesuits in China. and fit their beards and hair after the Chinese manner, and have their Cloaths made after the same fashion, and Learn the Language to Accommodate themselves the more easily thereto; but they dare not Preach the Gospel there but in private, for fear of being put to Death: I have been told at Goa that they have Converted great Numbers of them, yea, the very Mandarins themselves, [Page] and Governors of Provinces: They have a Church, and Colledge at Macao, an Isle and City of China, and there they Learn the Chinese Language:
This is about 45 Leagues from Canton one of the greatest Cities in all China, Canton a great City. where they go through a great River, much bigger than the Sene at Roar, and is joyned with the Sea.
At the Port of Canton are continually above three or four thousand very large Boats; and there a great Number of Birds of the River retire themselves [...]: which they leave in the Morning to go into the fields to seek their Living, some on one side, and some on the other; then when the Night comes, the Chinese sound a little horn, which is heard at a great distance, and then these Ducks return every one to his Boat, where they have their Nests, and Ducks of China. hatch their young ones.
A Man who shall have a Boat garnished with these Ducks is rich; For they sell 'em raw in the Market, and some they also Rost to sell.
A Portugal told me at Goa, that going from Macao to Canton, he had been Cozened by a Chinese after this manner; for having bought one of these [Page 264] Rosted Ducks at a Cooks shop, seeing it look well, and appearing to be very fat, he carried it with him on board his Vessel, to eat it, but when he had put his knife within it to cut it up, he found nothing but the skin which was upon some paper, ingeniously fitted up with little sticks, which made up the Body of the Duck; the Chinese having very Guile and deceits of Chines [...]. dexterously plucked away the flesh, and then so well Accommodated this skin, that it seemed to be a true Duck; of which the Portugal was so ashamed that he durst not say a word thereof to any one for fear of being Laughed at, both by the Chinese, and his Companions; and so eat the skin alone of the Duck without making any further ado.
These People of China are very subtill, and great cheats, patient in Labour, they wake all the Night long: And when two or three are upon one piece of work, some go to sleep whilst the others work, they come to relieve one another Chinise [...] cuning Merchants and desirous of Money. by turns. If they see any Merchant that has Money to lay out, they do all they can to have his traffick▪ fetching all sorts of Merchandise, if those do not please they go for others, untill [Page] they have catched his Money.
There the custom is for all People of the same Office or Trade, to live together in the same street, as all the Painters in one street, all the Shoe-Makers in an other; and so also the rest of the Tradesmen, the persons of honour are in one street, the less Noble in an other, and never mix together, thinking that a great shame and disgrace: They also bring up their Children in their own calling and no other, and observe this very strictly: When they have a mind to marry their Children, they cause them to come all to a certain place designed [...]arriages [...] China. for that purpose, which is a great Hall, and there put all the Males on one side, and the Maids on the other directly over against one another: The young women have their faces covered with a Vail, and the Boys go to choose which pleases them best, and keep to those whom they have taken by the hand; this is the manner of their Marriages: The Portugals are mighty desirous to have these Chineses for Slaves, because they are not only faithful and industrious, but also very active in business.
When the Portugals come to Canton [Page 265] there are Chineses on purpose, who make it their Trade to go into the Country towards the Habitations, and Villages: And when they see there some pretty little Boy or Girl, they entice them away with little toys, promising them more; then when they see them at a little distance, they carry them away by force, and hide them in certain places waiting till Night comes, and then come to the Sea side, where they know there are Traffickers, to whom they sell them for 12 and 15 Tays a piece, which is about 25 Crowns.
My Hostess at Goa told me that she Chineses, [...]ow [...]tole away. had been thus deceived by a Chinese, at 8 years of Age: A young Chinese Slave gave me an account returning from the Indies, how he had been also thus trappan'd by a little Cake, which had been given him, made of a sort of paste fried, of which they make very much use.
In China are a great Number of Hogs like wild Boars, of whom they make Gammons to sell to those who belong to the Sea, and especially to the Portugals who come there; and have also the same cunning tricks with the Rosted Ducks, to pluck away the flesh, leaving nothing but the skin, which [Page] they fill with black Earth, with the bones therein, then rub it so well with the fat that it seems to be the flesh it self: They sell this by weight, and 'tis no easy matter to discern the right from the wrong: Nay, if you put your knife in it, if it be but as they cut it in slices: you may perceive the deceit▪
In the Isle of Macao, where the Chineses and Portugals inhabit together, Trick put upon a Portugal▪ there was a Portugal Merchant very rich, who being in Love with a Chineses woman that was Married, used all the Solicitation and Courtship he could to oblige her to condescend to his will, but not being able to bring his designs to pass, he continued to importune her, insomuch that she declared it all to her Husband, who prudently told her that she should permit him to come at an hour appointed, and that he would make shew of going abroad, and then presently return and would knock at the Door: Having thus agreed betwixt them, it was put in Execution and the Portugal had assignation of the Lady, who failed not to come at the time appointed, not a little Joyful of this good fortune at last. But no sooner was our Gentleman entered the House the Door shut, than the Husband knocks at the Door, at which the [Page 266] Good Wife seeming to be mightily astonished, prayed the Portugal to hide himself▪ in an open Tub or Pourcelainfat, and having caused him to enter therein, and Locked it fast, opened the Door to her Husband, who without making shew of any thing, let him there soak till the next Morning, when he ordered this Tub to be carried to the Market, or Lailan as they call it, saying that there was some of the finest sort of Pourcelain therein to sell, and that there was so many Courges, or Dozen, and carried a sample thereof in his hand: When he had agreed with some one for the price, they opened the fat. And then appeared the poor Portugal ashamed, and almost starved, and every one mightily astonished to see him there in that condition, and the Chinese himself pretending great wonder thereat, and the Portugal had his belly full of Jearing and hissing at, without any other harm.
When the Chineses can catch any Portugal, they use them very scurrilously as Treatment of the Chineses towards the Portugals. it happened to a Portugal Captain, who going from Macoa to Canton, the Mandarin Governor of the province sent for him, telling him that he had been advertised that the Portugals had carried away a great many Chinese Captives, and for [Page] that cause he must be content to be put to Death, and have his Ship Consiseated: The other thought this very strange, and began to entreat the Mandarin as well as he could with fair words and promises to let him go▪ but the Mandarin not having a mind to quit him at so easy a rate, commanded him to be stripped stark naked; and to lie along upon the ground as the Portugals do to their Slaves, and others, then caused him to have three blows with a Cane sl [...]t in two, and then was let go.
Now when there arrives any Ships in the Ports of China, to put off their Merchandise, the Chineses coming for the custom, take the length and the breadth of the Ship, then after that they know within a very small matter what the Ship carries, they pay accordingly without regarding what the Merchandize is.
As for the Chineses at their meat, they eat like Gluttons, and with an ill grace, as I have often taken notice of, in eating and drinking with them. They have this custom, never to touch the meat they eat, but have two little spatules of hard wood very neatly made like forks, which they hold betwixt their fingers, they eat the flesh of Dogs, which is a great dish amongst them, they are also mightily used [Page 267] to Rice, and little Bread. As for their Houses, they are very sumptuous, and adorned with all sort [...] of pretty Devices: They also are very Voluptuous, as well Men as Women.
But to return to Goa, I think it not much amiss to relate what a Portugal Gentleman told me of their Adventures, which was that once going to War towards the South Sea, with the Naval Army of Galiots, (which every year go out against the Malabars) about the middle of September, when their Winter is past, and at the same time another Army goes out to the North Sea, which is towards the Red Sea.
The Captains of the Army held Council together to go into a Habitation of the Gentiles, along by the Coast near to Cochin, to take away by force a Golden Pagod, very great, with other little ones, who were in a certain Temple there: But forasmuch as these Gentiles were Confederates with the Portugals, they would not do this enterprise in the day-time, but went one night to go ashore in this little City, not far from the Sea, where the Pagod was, and setting foot on Land, they set Fire in every place to fright these poor People, and so went straight to the Pagod, but the Fire passed so quickly, that before they had Power to take the Idol it forced [Page] them to retire a little faster than they came, and had no more time than only to snatch the Pendants and Rings from the Ears and Fingers of these poor Religious Women, who were shut up, Dancing all the night in their Pagod, according to their Custom: They were near 500, and seeing the Enemy entering, they all assembled themselves together, fastening their Legs and Arms one within another, that 'twas impossible for the Portugals to draw so much as one of them out: But seeing the Fire at their Heels, they only snatched away the Jewels from their Ears, their Fingers they cruelly cut off to have the Rings, and they made such a lamentable noise, that 'twas a great pity to hear them: The Portugals flying away from the I [...]ire, left all these Religious young Women to be Burnt, none being able to succour them; and thus cruelly do the Portugals treat their best Friends and Confederates: He who related to me this pitious History, was named Don Louts Lobe, who was of this enterprise, and told me, that this uproar moved him from his very Heart to Pity.
As for what concerns the City of Goa, and the Country round about, I pretend not here to make an exact and ample Discription; yet I desire the Reader to [Page 268] take notice, that that little which I speak is no more than what my Memory was able to furnish me withall; for being upon the places, I was so carefully watched, as are all Strangers, and especially the French, that I could put nothing in Writing; And this was the principal cause of my Imprisonment at Mosambique, being accused of having made a Ruttier of the Sea, which thing the Portugals fear the most, not being willing, that the French, English, or Hollanders, should know any thing of those Countries.
I will say of Goa in a few words, that it is a City excellent well scituated in an Island, environed with the River, some part level, and other mountainous, and may be about as big as Tours, but Peopled with all Nations of India: It is very well built, in its Churches, Hospitals, Colleges, publick Palaces, and particular Houses of the Portugals and Natives, which are of a reddish Bastard Marble, and Free-Stone: The other Houses of the Indians are like Cabins built with Earth, and some Stone: They have a great number of Gardens, with Tanques, or great Ponds to Bath in, and many Fruit▪ Trees: The Country is good and fertile, bearing Rice twice a year: The Gentiles have liberty of their Religion, but are not suffered to have any [Page] Pagod or Temple within the City, but only in the main-land, and out of the Isle.
When these Gentiles and Idolaters come to Die, if they leave little Children, the Jesuits are careful to take and bring them up, and instruct them in the Faith; and therefore for their Pains, they seize upon their Lands, Inheritances, and Goods▪ My Host, a Christian Indian, told me, that he had been served after this manner, without being a jot the better instructed.
As for the Men of War, they are about 1500 or 2000, according as the Fleets arrive. I saw a General-Muster of all the Inhabitants bearing Arms, as well the Portugals as Natives and Indians, and were sound to be about 4000: They did that, being that time in fear of the Hollanders, who scowered the Sea with a great number of Vessels. I neither knew nor met with any Frenchman there, but a good Father Jesuit, named Estienne de la Croix, Native of Roan, of whom I received no small kindness: I also saw 3 others, who had escaped from the Maldives, amongst whom was one named Francois Pirard, a Briton, who has Writ the History of his Voyages: I was told that 3 Months before I arrived at Goa, there went away from thence, a French Gentleman named de Feynes, ho caused [Page 269] himself to be called the Count of Monsert: He was mighty skillful in the Art of Blowing up places; which was the cause of his Misfortune; for coming from Persia to Ormus, as he was discoursing there▪ that he knew the way of Blowing up a Fortress, was it never so strong, he was presently laid hold of as a Prisoner, and carried to Goa, where he was kept in Prison for fear he would observe the Fortresses; and the first Fleet that returned to Portugal, he was sent therein, and kept Prisoner at Lisbon, until Monsieur▪ du Mayne went into Spain, who obtain'd his Deliverance.
As for what concerns the Fertility of the Land of Goa, and what it produces, I remit you to what has been written by the Portugals; only I say, that the Fruit most necessary for the life of Man, is that of the Palm. This Tree is Spongy, having little Strings or Veins environed with a Pellicule, and draws its substance from the Sandy-Earth, from which it also draws great abundance of moisture, which is necessary for the greatness of the Fruit it bears, and the quantity of Esura or Wine which this Fruit renders. Of the Nut of this Palm-Tree, so celebrated in the Indies, they draw abundance of Meat and Drink.
There a [...] plenty of these Coco's, or [Page] Maldives; but amongst others, they remark one sort thereof which comes from the bottom of the Sea, the Fruit is bigger than the common Palm; 'tis also very dear amongst the Portugals, who suppose it to have a great Virtue for the Disease of the Lungs, and for the Astmatiques, or Shortness of Breath, and against Poison. The Nut thereof is very great, long and black, in form of a Gondale; The Tree that bears this Fruit is not to be seen, growing at the bottom of the Sea: but when the Sea is agitated, the Fruit is born from the bottom to the top, and is found upon the Shore.
I come now to my return, when the Senior Andre Furtado de Mondoso returning to Portugal, sent for me to go with him. We parted then from the Bar of Goa the 2d of Jan. 1610. Being Embark'd in a Ship called Nostra Segniora di Beigna di Francia, which was very heavily laden and cumbered, insomuch that 'twas no small confusion to be there; Andre Furtado was very sick when he Embark'd. At last we set sail with a great deal of trouble, because the Ship had Cinnamon almost as far as the middle of the Mast, every day taking care to put by so much out of the way.
The 16th of January we saw the Desarts [Page 270] of Arabia, and sailed with a very good Wind as far as the Land of Crimbe, or Country of the Abassins, and passed along by the Coast the 9th of Feb. But the 11th we feared to be lost by a contrary Wind, the Ship beating upon the Sea, and drawing in much Water. The Senior Andre Furtado sick as he was, seeing this extremity, got upon the Deck to order the Ship to be lightned and pumped, and about 300 Black Slaves, with some Mariners, were 3 days and nights, and had much ado to empty it.
The 15th of Feb. we saw the Isle of St. Lawrence, mightily covered with Fog, and bearing about to pass the Cape of Good-Hope, with a favourable Gale of Wind, we passed it the 16th of March.
Being at the height of the Isle of St. Helens, we were in great doubt whether we should go on Shore to take there some fresh Water, and the Passengers and Mariners disputed stifly against the Master and Pilot, but they put it all to the Sieur Andre Furtado, who was then mortally Sick, and who said that he had no Orders from the King of Spain to go to the said Isle, except it was in case of great necessity, and that he feared to find there some Enemies, who might give them trouble, it being the place where they [Page] commonly came: Thereupon he commanded a review to be taken of the fresh Water that remained, to know if it would hold out for every one to have half a Pint a day for 4 Months, for we reckoned we had so long to sail: This enquiry exactly made, 'twas found within a very small matter of this measure; so that we made the best of our way, the Wind being favourable. We could not persuade Senior Andre Furtado, tho he was sick, to repo [...]e himself in this little Isle of St. Helen; so that in the end this poor Gentleman, being weakened and overcome with sickness, died the first of April: His Body was Embalmed that it might be carried to Portugal, for in the Ships there is never want of Camfre, Benjoin, and Aromatical Things for that purpose: There was a Portugal Barber, who knew only how to Shave and let Blood; and having a mind to make Balm, in causing the Benjoin to be melted, and to fill the Body therewith: I releived him from this trouble and apparent Error, and made him acknowledge his Fault; and so having Embalmed the Body, and put it in a Coffin, It was laid up in the Guard-Robe of the Chamber, with a lighted Lamp by it, and we carried it without any smell or inconveniency as far as Lisbon.
[Page 271] We passed close by the Isles of the A [...]ores and along by them, were great debates betwixt those of the Ship, some were resolved to go on shore by force, which the Captain, the Master and Pilot would by no means yeild too: This came all from the passenger Souldiers, who came to dispatch their business in Portugal for Recompence of their Services in the Indies: For then the King gives them some Captain-ships of Fortresses in the Indies: But the Captain caused some of the most Mutinous to come before him; (for they were ready to lay hold upon their Arms, and made no small stir and ado, thinking themselves still in the Indies) but he soon made them to know their duty; and persuing our course with a very good wind, we arrived at Cuscais▪ the 2d of July, and the next day I went on shore, leaving all my things on Board, which were there above a Month without being able to get them out; there being Guards which stole them all away. At the Months end the Kings Duty being paid, the small things were brought on Shore, and there was several who found their Chests fast shut, but nothing within them: I was one of those also; but it was small loss to me, not having brought back any thing of value from [Page] those Countries, where I had nothing but bad fortune; and was very well content that I was safely returned tho I was not a little indisposed in my person, because of these salt and spiced waters, which I had then been forc'd to drink till they so heated my Stomack, that my mouth cast out burning Vapours, and I could scaree quench my thirst.
At length being restored to my health by cooling remedies, and seeing my self strong enough to reassume the way to my dear native Country, where I had a great desire to see my self again after so many satigues and dangers, I embarked the 17th of August in a Ship belonging to one Picare Simon of Rochelle. and in our Company was another Ship called also the Dauphin of Rochelle: But being in the Sea, we were so beaten with Storms, that the Dauphin, mightily desired us to keep by them; but one Night in a very great Storm, her Sails split and tore to pieces, they were forced to bend their main Top Sail in stead of their main Sail, insomuch that in the Morning we saw her at above 3 Leagues of us, and had put abroad their Ensign to cause us to come up to her; which we did as soon as might be, and coming near her, we saw them crying out for Misericorde, or mercy, for they [Page 272] were sinking: We boarded them at the Poop, and they saved themselves, who could in our Ship; it was a great pity to see them in this extremity: I saved one of them along by the side, who fell from the Stern of our Ship: Thus was the Ship lost and all the Merchandise that was in her; and afterward we arrived at Rochelle the 3d of Sept. from thence I came to Paris the 23 of the same Month, when our young King Lewis XIII. (whom God preserve and prosper) was gone to be. Crowned at Rheims.
I had heard no News of the unhappy accident happened in the Person of King Henry the Great, my good Master, untill we were in sight of Lisbon; for then, according to the custom, there came a Caravel from the Port to see and know who we were, who told us that sad History, which I could scarcely believe, but coming to Land it was too much confirmed, to my Eternal regret and sorrow.
THE TRAVELS AND VOYAGES OF John Mocquet, INTO Syria, and the Holy Land.
BOOK V.
HAving return'd to Paris from so many long and troublesome Voyages after the Death of King Henry the Great, whom I can never sufficiently lament, and all other good French Men, I had a desire to make a Religious Voyage into the Holy Land, there to go pay (like a good Christian) so many Vows I had made to God for the innumerable Perils and Dangers, from which it hath pleased him, mercifully to preserve me so often.
[Page 274] In this Resolution I parted from Paris the 19th. of July, 1611. and took Coach to Marseilles, where I arrived Embarkment at Marseilles. the 14th. Day of August, and tarried there for some Days to wait for passage, which at last I found in a Ship of Toulon, called the St. Francis, belonging to Ode Bergue, and Vander Strate, Merchants of Toulon, and Marseilles: There embarking, the 8th. of September, we set sail, and the 12th. saw the Isle of Sardania, which Sardania. we left on the North-East; and the 15th. we saw the Coast of Barbary, passing near the Isle of Guerite, which Guerite Isle. is a little Island not far from the main Land, where the Robbers and Pyrates lurk, as well Turks as Christians; we had this Isle towards the South-West.
The 17th. we passed along by Malta, Malta. then by Sicilia, where we found a Sicilia. Ship in the fashion of a Galiot, who came directly towards us to know if they durst engage us; but when they had perceived our Strength, they tacked about, taking their course towards Barbary, seeking other Prey more easie to surprize.
[Page 275] The 21st. we passed along by Candia, Candia. where there is a little Island called Agose Isle. Agose, which advances into the Sea with a Point towards the South: Then the 27th. we went to the Isle of Cyprus, towards the City of Bafe, Cyprus. not far from the Coast, and went to pass the Cape de Gate, designing to go to Famagusta: But having a sharp Gale, and good for our Voyage, we continued our course, bearing towards Tripoly in Syria, where we arriv'd Arrival at Tripoly. the last Day of September; the next Morning, the 1s [...]. of October, I went on shore to lodge in the City, in a Campo near the Juderie, or Jews-Place: Campo. These Campo's are great Houses, with large Courts and Fountains, where Strangers retire themselves for shelter, like Inns. These belong to some great Person, who letts them out; and he who is the Porter thereof, whom they call Boabe, receives the Money of the Passengers, and gives it to the Master, of whom he holds it upon Rent.
Having tarried some time at Tripoly, Voyage to Mount Lebanon. I had a mind to see Mount Lebanon; and for this effect took a Turk, with [Page 276] an Ass to carry our Victuals: We left the City the 11th. of November, and went over very high Mountains, and troublesome to pass, and in the end arrived at the Lodging of a Chaldean Archbishop, called Father George, who received us after the best manner he could. His House is right above Mount Lebanon; his Church is under his Habitation, and a Water-mill underneath his Church. I saw a good Father, a Chaldean Priest, and Kinsman to this Archbishop, who came from grinding his Corn, as he shewed us by his Visage all white with Meal; and seeing him in this case, we knew him not to be of the Church, until the next Morning, which was Sunday, when I saw him go with the Host in his Hand from thence to a Village, there to sing Mass. The Father George lived there with his Mother, Sisters, and Nieces, making one and the same Family altogether. He shewed me a Chapel above his House, upon a little Rock, right under Mount Lebanon, and told methere was there a Hole, out of which every Year, upon the 1st. Day of May only, gushes an abundance of [Page 277] Water, at such time as they sing Mass in the Chapel. The Mountain is covered all over with Cyprus-Trees. The Place is very agreeable; but the Winter is there very troublesome, because of the excessive Cold, and great Snows, which mightily afflicts these good Fathers, so that they are constrained for that cause to pass the Winter near Tripoly, and return there again in the Spring.
The next Morning after we had heard Mass, we set forward towards the Place where the Cedars are, about Cedars. Three Leagues from thence; where being come, we had such a cold blast of Wind, that my Turk blew his Fingers: I order'd him to get upon a Cedar-Tree to break me off some Branches, but he tarried there not long; for the Cold soon made him to descend, that he could not get me so much as I desir'd. But I feared he would tumble down, being half frozen; and besides, he had not eaten his Breakfast, because of their Romadan, Romadan, or Fast. in the which they fast till Evening, not daring to eat any thing upon pain of Death, except it be in private, [Page 278] and those who observe not strictly their Law; and when I saw him tremble in good earnest, I presently made him come down, fearing to lose him.
From thence we reassumed our way to return to Canibi, which is a Place Canibi. belonging to the Chaldean Patriarch, and had very bad Weather of Rain; so that we arrived there late in the Evening, after having passed many little Habitations, situate for the most part upon the side of inaccessible Rocks, and are almost all Chaldean, and Greek Christians, with some few Moors amongst them. We were there very well received, and drank excellent Wine, which grows in these Mountains.
The next Day having heard Mass, we returned to Tripoli, where I passed a very troublesome Winter, because Inundations. of the great Inundations of Water which came from the Mountains, and so swelled a little River which runs through the middle of the City, that it bore down part of the Houses, with great loss of Merchandise, and Water-mills, which it carried [Page 279] quite away, with the Stone-bridge. This was the cause that Bread was there very scarce and dear, that we had much adoe to get a little black Biscuit, half spoiled, which was sold me by weight, and at what rate they pleased, and that by halves; and the People already began to cry out for Famine. The House of the Consul of France fell upon him, and killed him: Several other Houses fell also by this disaster of Inundation, which came in a Night without so much as dreaming of.
The City of Tripoly is situated in a A Description of Tripoly. Valley below Mount Lebanon, and has still an old Castle with square Towers, built formerly by the French, the then Lords of the Holy-Land: There is at present a Garrison of Turks. The City may be as big as Pontoise, and there is but a small River that passes that way, which is very subject to break out of its Banks when the Snows of the Mountain melt, and then does a thousand Mischiefs, as I have seen when I happened to be there: All the rest of the time one may pass almost dry upon the Stones. The City is [Page 280] very well built; the Houses low, except those of the Great Ones; and there inhabits a great Number of Grecian Christians, Jews, some French, and Italians. Those of Marseilles trade mightily there.
There is also a Bassa, or Governour, who, in the Summer, goes with his Nobility to lie in Tents in the Meadows betwixt the Port and the City, and there exercise themselves at the Launce, and Sword. This City is about Nine Days Journey from Aleppo.
The Spring being come, I began to Parting for Jerusalem. think of going to Jerusalem; and for this purpose, parting the 9th. of April, 1612. with a Mouquary, or Turkish Carrier, we took our way towards Damascus, and the first Night lay in a little Meadow by a River-side, where we endured no small cold, because of the Winds which come from these Mountains laden with Snow. The next Day we raised our little Caravan, which consisted of Turks and Jews, and a Greek Christian and his Sister: This young Grecian Girl was not above Twelve Years of Age, and was very vertuous and brisk, being mounted [Page 281] upon her little Ass, which was led by her Brother. We passed many Mountains, and arrived at a Habitation of Arabians, where we had but very bad Lodging, lying along the Walls of the Houses which are in very dirty Places: I made my Pillow of a Stone.
The next Day we went to Dine at Armel, a little City of the Arabians, Armel. and then retired into a House of Pleasure very stately and magnificent, but there was none in it; it serves only for a retiring Place, and Lodging for the Caravans, they giving so much to the Porter who is the Keeper thereof: This House is furnish'd After the Moorish manner. a la Moresque, and strong enough to hold out an Assault. A certain Turk who returned from the Bassa of Tripoly caused it to be built after this manner: The Bassa commanded him to be taken and brought into his presence, telling him, That being his Subject he was greater than he, in regard of the sumptuous and strong House which he had caused to be built, that he might rebel against him; and thereupon commanded his Head to be chopp'd off in [Page 282] recompence of several good and notable Services he had done him.
Parting from this Place, we went along by a Rivolet to lodge upon a little Hill within the enclosure of certain Walls very low, where there was a small Cottage of the Arabians: We lay along the Wall, and passed the Night with great fear of the thievish Arabs. We parted from thence betimes in the Morning, and came to Bailbec, a very ancient City, where Bailbec. formerly lived Christians, the Ruines of a Church remaining there yet. I went into the City with my Mouquary, which was the Turk, that furnished me with a Horse to ride upon, and there we sought for a little Wine, but privately, it being forbid to sell any: We found some White, very good, at the House of a Grecian, who earnestly desired us to hide it. They failed not to come to search our Cloaths, and other things, but they could not find it, for we had locked it fast up. We lay without the City along the Walls which are made of great Stones, not of Masons Work, but roughly set one upon another, each one above [Page 283] 12 or 15 Foot long. The Bassa of this Place went out about Noon with all his Cavalry and Infantry, going to some Place, not far from thence, upon a Quarrel which he had against the Bassa of Damascus. He marched in excellent good order, especially for Turks and Arabians to observe.
We dislodged from this Place two or three Hours before Day, passing by Rocks, of which the most part were Aquaeducts. broke and thrown down, and the Veins and Pipes bigger than ones Arm are still to be seen, through which flowed the Water before they were broke down: There is amongst others one of these Rocks slit in two, about 3 or 4 Leagues from Damascus; and the River of Jordan, which comes Jordan. from Mount Lebanus, passes with great swiftness very near it, there is a Bridge over which we passed: Along by this River are places cut like Caves within the Rock, where lived formerly certain Hermits; and truly the Place is very proper for a solitary Life, being exceeding desert, and of difficult access. We went to lie in a certain Habitation, and the next Day we arrived [Page 284] at Damascus, which was on Palm-Sunday Damascus. Eve, the 14th. of April. I went to take a Lodging in the House of one Ibrahim, a Rabbi of the Jews, to whom I had been recommended by a Cousin of his, which I had known at Tripoly. He received us after the best manner he could; but we supped but badly, because it was the Day of their Sabbath, in which they dare scarce touch any thing. The next Day I so ordered the Business with this Jew, my Host, that he gave me one of his Servants to conduct me, and help me to buy an Ass. They were at that time making Preparations for their Passover, and I saw them buy Sheep in a Market for that purpose, Passover of the Jews. and this Servant chose the fattest for his Master; so that I had much adoe to hale him to the place where I knew there was an Ass to be sold, which had been brought from Tripoly with us: I bargained for it for 19 Pataques Pataques. and a half one, for the Jew: I exchanged my Money, taking for Spanish Money, Pieces of Albouquelque, to give to the Cafars, and gained 55 for 50; for the Cafars go for as much Cafars. [Page 285] as those of Spain. Albouquelques are pieces of German Money, having the Albouquelques. mark of a Lyon; the Turks take it for a Dog, and therefore call them Albouquelques or Dog-pieces. I desired also my Jew to find me out a Turk, which he did, and promised him a Patache a Day, but he was to find himself with Victuals.
As for this City of Damascus, it is very fine and pleasant, having most delicate Gardens, and is seated in a Valley, as it were in the middle of a Meadow; and there is a Lake and a River which pass cross it, with many excellent Fountains: Amongst others is to be seen that of St. Paul near to a Mosque.
This City is divided into two, by a great Church-yard of some 400 Paces, Damascus described. after the Moorish manner: The whole City may be as big as Orleance. It is of great Trade; and amongst others, there is a great Street, where there is nothing but Merchandice of Drugs and Spices. This City is encompassed with Walls, but not round about, and has a very strong Castle, and great number of Gardens in the adjacent [Page 286] Parts. There is a Bassa, or Governour, and a multitude of Greek Christians there, but no French. It is about Three Days Journey from the Sea, and Five from Jerusalem: Formerly it was the greatest Commerce of the Indies, Persia, Chaldea, Armenia, and other Places.
We left Damascus the 16th. of April, and went to Sassa, where was a Cafar, Cafars, or Toll. or Toll: But my Turk, to save me from paying any thing, and thinking to have the half of that which belonged to the Cafar, put upon my Turbant, which was of the Greek Colour, another of white after the Turkish manner, and passed thus without being taken notice of by the Cafars, or else they were asleep in their Houses; for we saw none coming toward us as we passed over the Bridge which is there: So that we escaped, and went from thence through a very bad way full of great Stones, where I endured no small pain, scarce being able to draw my self out from amongst them, because of the Water and Mire which are together; and this bad way continued almost the whole Day. But as [Page 287] we were a good way in these Boggs and Quagmires, we saw coming towards us a Turkish Cavalier, with a Harquebuse at his Saddle-bow, and Adventure of a Turk. passing near to me, he demanded, An ta Frangi? if I was a Christian; and having answered him, Yes, he returned in a Fury towards my Turk, who was before me, and held his Sword at his Throat to kill him, had not a poor Arabian, who was at work hard by, run to his succour, praying this Cavalier to be pacified; and from thence he came to give me a Blow with his Sword, but I gat my self out of his way, and he spurring his Horse upon me, cryed Rou, which is to say, Return; but my Turk so ordered the Matter, that he was content to take a Piece of Money, and the Arabian also mightily desired him. After that, my Turk took away my white Turbant, shewing him that I had one of the right Colour underneath, and that this which he had given me was to keep me from the Sun. This, with the Money, contented him, and preserved us from the Danger of being soundly beaten, and also of returning [Page 288] back to Sassa, where the Cafars and Soubachins. Sub-Bassa's would not have pardoned us. I then threw away his white Cap, contenting my self with my own, not having a mind ever to rely any more upon what he told me. We were in continual fear lest these Cafars should come after us, upon the Information of this Cavalier, but they did not; yet my Turk was under such a mortal Apprehension that they would, that he turned about ever and anon, and pricked on the Ass as much as he could. We went to lie at Conetra in a Campo, where we payed a Cafar. Conetra.
The Chelubin, which is to say the Lord of the Place, who understood a little of the Gemique Tongue, (which is corrupted Italian,) spake for me to the Cafars, that they might use me kindly, and take no more of me than he ordered them. He came with other Cavaliers of his Company to discourse with me where I was with my Ass in a Court; and having perceived my Kit or Gittern amongst my things, he desired me mightily to play upon it, which I willingly did, and presented [Page 289] him with a curious great Pomgranate, which had been given me by one of the Bassa's of Damascus's Gentlemen. He was very well content therewith, and thought himself well payed for the Kindness he had done me with the Cafars. These Cafars Cafars, or Toll-gatherers. are the Farmers and Toll-gatherers of the Turk, and are always Three together; one for the Grand Signior, another for the Soldiers of the Country, and the third for the Soubachin, or Governor of the Place. I lay there in a Stable of Mules and Camels, upon a little Grass which I had bought, having no better Lodging that Night than my Ass.
We parted from thence about three Hours before Day, and found the Company which was going after the Chec-Marabou, who parted from Damascus Chec▪Marabou. two Days before us, whom we overtook along by the Sea Tiberiades. This Chec-Marabou goes out every Year from Damascus, to go in Devotion to Salomon's Temple in Jerusalem, and those who go with him, (which are they of the Country,) pay nothing; they are sometimes 5 [Page 290] or 6000. I was very glad to find this Company, for fear that my Turk should play me some Roguish Trick, though the Jew, Ibrahim, had made him put his Hand upon mine, promising, upon the Law of Mah [...]met, to guard and protect me as himself, and to bring me back again to Damascus, or at least a Letter from me to this Jew: But yet I trusted not so much to that, as to make me neglect being upon my guard, knowing well the Humour of this cu [...]sed and unfaithful Race of People, who will kill a Man for a small matter, and especially the Turks Covetous and Wicked. Christians, whom they greatly hate, and serve them only for their own Profit, of wh [...]ch they are as greedy as Hell can make 'em.
We passed then a great Number of Woods, and at length came to Jacob's-B [...]idge, where there was a Cafar, through which passes a very swift River, which is that of Jordan, and which Jordan. runs from thence into the Sea Tiberiades, not far distant from thence. These Cafars were Arabs; and my Turk thinking not to pay so much, to save something for himself, endeavour'd to perswade [Page 291] them that I was a Jew, and that I was going to Zaphet where their Synagogue Zaphet. is; but these Arabs, who were very cunning and subtle, saw by my Looks that I was not like a Jew; and an old Man, all scorch'd and burnt with the Sun, asked me, Hady Frangi? which is as much as to say, if I was a Christian? My Turk, and another of our Company, earnestly entreated them not to take much of me, and that I was a poor miserable Wretch, and made me pass before with the others, they tarrying there to pay; but for all that, they payed much more, (or at least made me believe so) than I had done: But it behoved me to pass that way whether I would or not. When you have passed the Bridge, you see in this River a little Island, where there is an ancient Building, which they say to be Jacob's House. Jacob's House.
From thence we passed through Deserts, where was a great Number of Tents of the Arabs on each side, and began to mend our pace for the great Fear we were in, without resting or refreshing our selves at all; and I was very angry with my Turk, who would [Page 292] not give me time to eat a bit of Bread, being very weak, having set out a little after Midnight, and made so much way; and besides, our evil Fortune was not to find the least drop of Water to drink. When we had passed all these Habitations of Arabs, we went to pitch along by a Rock, where it was exceeding hot, and there seeking for Water we found some, though very little, which was Rainwater kept there a long time. We had a mind to taste of it; but it was so bitter and stinking, that it was impossible to swallow the least drop thereof, tho' I formerly had drank that which had been very bad, and fancied that the Lizards, Serpents, and other venomous Creatures, which are there in abundance, had come to drink, and to plunge themselves therein. Our Turks, though they are exceeding dry, and are rustical and rough in their manner of living, could not drink the least drop thereof. By good Fortune I had still a Pomegranate or two left, of which I gave to every one a little bit to refresh their Mouths, not daring to eat any thereof before [Page 293] them, without giving them some, tho' I had very great need of it my self: But it behoved me so to do, if I had a mind to live quietly; my endeavour being to humour them as long as I was with them.
Thus passed we this troublesome Way as far as the Cistern of Joseph, Cistern of Joseph. where we drank some of the Water, which is very good and fresh, and filled also our Teronques therewith. This Cistern is a little Place raised up, where there is a Building, in which live certain Arabs: It is covered with a Cupolo, sustained with Four Pillars of White Marble; but at present there is but Three entire, the other being broken.
Having drank enough, we went on our way; but these Arabs striving to force us to give them something for this Water, my Turk ran to hinder them from taking my Bread which I had brought from Damascus, where I was furnished with Provision for several Days; but at last it behoved us to give them something: And thus escaped we from their Hands, passing along Valley of the Five Loaves. by the Valley of the Five Loaves, [Page 294] where our Lord wrought that famous Miracle: From thence we came to the Sea of Tiberias, the 18th. of April, Sea of Tiberias. and found the Chec-Marabou, who was going to Jerusalem to the Temple of Salomon, accompanied with 4 or 5000 Persons of all sorts. The Place where we were, was then called Lameny; there we pitched our Baggage hard by Lameny. a Bush, and in the mean time I went to bathe in this Sea, to ease and refresh my self a little: I found the Water thereof very sweet and still, and excellent good to drink, having a very soft Sand at the bottom. The River of Jordan passes with a very swift course just through the middle, without mixing it self therewith, and from thence runs into the dead Sea near Jerusalem, from whence it is plainly to be seen from Mount Olivet; for it is in a Valley, having the Land of Arabia very high, and Desart on the other side, as I saw from Mount Olivet.
This Place of Lameny hath Cafars, but I met with none of them: I there saw all these Marabouts Santons, who dance before the Chec's Tent; and it is a fine sight to see them perform their [Page 295] Ceremonies and Follies, ranging themselves Strange Danc [...]s. all into a Ring, as in a Dance, then clapping their Hands, and crying Nila Nilala; then bowing, and heaving themselves up with a great force: There was a San [...]o [...] that led them by Signs of his Hands, Gestures, and Motions, like a Master of Musick, and who was in the middle of the Dance, following with his Face towards them. It would be impossible to represent all the great Follies and silly Tricks which they shew in these Dances; for there are some of them, who going out of the Dance, cast themselves all along upon the Ground; then two of these Santon-Marabouts take him, one by the Head, and the other by the Feet, and stretch him out as far as they can; after that, this Man pretends himself dead, and makes as tho' he had great Convulsions and Tremblings, shaking himself mightily two or three times, then seems as if he gave up the Ghost; the Marabouts seeing that he neither stirs nor takes his Breath, look upon him as a dead Man; he who is at the Head, takes his Right Hand, and puts it upon [Page 296] his Face, then does as much to his Left, and after that, puts them upon his Belly; he who is at the Feet plucks him very hard, and the other holding him by the Head raises him upon his Feet; whereupon presently this dead Man reviving, runs to dancing with the others: They employ themselves thus 4 or 5 at a time, one after another, going to this fine Sport.
As I was beholding these Fooleries, there was a Mo [...]ish Woman hard by me, who seeing all this, entred into such a Fransie, that she fell to shaking and crying out like the rest, so that they had much adoe to quiet her, making as if she had been ravished into an Ex [...]asie.
The Evening being come, they all fall to their Sala or Prayers, and light a great Number of Lamps before the Tent of the Chec-Marabou, who is the Captain of the other Santons and Marabous, placing before his Tent all the Standards, where there is writ in Arabick Letters something of the Law of Mahomet: Afterwards in the Morning, when the Caravan comes to decamp, all these Santons take every one, [Page 297] one of these Ensigns, and go singing before the Chec, who is encompass'd about with these Standards; then he mounts upon a fine Horse, with some other Cavaliers that accompany him, and march thus in great Ceremony before the Caravan.
As we thus parted from Lameny, my Turk took me out of the way of the Chec, telling me, That in the way where the Chec was to pass there was abundance of Water, which my Ass could not pass over: He thus deceived me on purpose, to make me pay the Cafars, with whom I believe he participated. We went over Mountains very high, and almost inaccessible, with no small trouble; and there was also some Turkish Men and Women with us, who had taken this way as the best.
At Night we arrived at Eonjar, Eonjar. which is a place some two Musquet-shot from Mount Tabor: We thought Mount Tabor. the Chec would have come there also, but he came not that Day; which those of the Campo seeing, they caused us to enter into the Court for fear of the Arabs; and there I accommodated [Page 298] my self in the middle, with my Ass close by me. There was some Greeks who invited me to sup with them, giving me some Rice and parch'd Beans. After Supper, as I was going to sleep hard by my Baggage in the Court, a Janisary, who came along with us that Day, with 3 or 4 Turkish Women, sent for me, (he being under a Vault, with a great Number of Arabs,) and invited me to eat some Almonds and Raisins Turkish Courtesie. with him; and besides that, spoke for me to the Cafars, so ordering the Business with them, that I should pay nothing, telling them that I came in Company of the Chec, where all was frank and free: But I was since shewed the contrary at Nabelous.
We parted from that Place before Day with Three or Four Turkish Merchants (the Janisary staying there to attend the Coming of the Chec) and came to Gigny, passing on Foot over Mount Th [...]bor, which is very high, and elevated, covered with Trees like Oaks, bearing Acorns, with Leaves which prick like Holly-Oak. This Mountain is above a League high, [Page 299] and the Circuit of it is near Three, the top whereof is plain, and had formerly some sort of Building and Dwelling-place for Hermits, but all is ruined; the Country round about is nothing else but Woods.
Gigny is a little City; where being Gigny come, we went to put our selves into the Court of the Castle during the great Heat of the Sun; and being there, a great many Arabian Cafars came armed with Bows, Arrows, Rude Treatment of the Author. Darts, and Harquebuzes, who encompassed me about like ravenous Wolves, crying out Alcafar ard Drehen, Give us Money. I excused my self after the best manner I could, that I might not give them all which they demanded; but the Master Cafar, without saying a Word to me, at my first Refusal, gave me such a Blow upon the Shoulders, that he broke his Staff, and presently sent for another as big as his Arm, with which he treated me so cruelly, that I was forced to give them as much as they would have. My wicked Turk all this while was gotten far enough from me, and caused this Tragedy to be acted, having [Page 300] for that purpose led me out of the way of the Chec, that he might the more easily rob me: When he was returned, I gave him Money, telling him that he might go his ways where he would, and that I would have no more to do with such a wicked Man in my Company: But he told me that he was obliged to bring me safe to Jerusalem, and to bring News from me back to Damascus, if I returned not with him: Finally, I was forced to bear with this Tyrant, who was never content with what I gave him, and besides denied what I had given him at Damascus for Advance, and that which I gave him also at Gigny, thinking to have it over again.
We departed thus from Gigny the 22d. of April, and came to Caranouby, Caranouby. a Place of the Arabians, in the Country; and there the Arabs came from all Parts to see me, being on Horseback, with Launces in the manner of Pikes, for that is their ordinary Arms: They endeavoured to rob us; but some of them were pursued by those of the Caravan, who cast Darts, Stones and Clubs at them, and the Arabs rode [Page 301] away like Lightning through the middle of the Fields. There was one of them taken, who was led before the Chec, who caused him to be soundly Bastinado'd for his Theft.
Now my Turk who sought nothing more than to ease me of my Money, stirred up two Arabians to demand Alcafar of me, or Tribute. I was not a little surprized at that, seeing my self in the open Fields, where there was not any appearance of a Cafar; however, I told them that I owed them nothing in that Place: But my Turk, who had brought them, urged me very hard to pay it, that he might have his Share thereof, yet I would not give them any thing; and seeing my self near the Tent of a Turkish Gentleman, I took the more Heart, knowing very well that he would not suffer me to be abused; so these Arabs were forced to go their ways as they came. But my Traytor, the Turk, bore me a Spite, and acted the same in a very base manner; for the next Day parting from Caranouby, and passing through the City of Herodes, where St. John was beheaded, and [Page 302] where still a great Number of Marble-Pillars are standing, and Olive-Trees very old, we came to Nabelous, a great Nabelous. City, which is said to be Samaria. The Chec went to pitch his Tent in a great Enclosure, a quarter of a League below the City; and then my Turk putting me close by an Olive-Tree, with my Baggage, and my Ass, went straight away to give the Cafars notice: I was a good way from the Tents, and this Villain had separated me from the Company of Three Turks that were Brothers, very civil Men, where I was left alone amongst the poor Arabs who followed us to Jerusalem. As I was thus under the Olive-Tree, eating of that little which I had; for I could find nothing, save a little Paste fryed in Oil, two Arabian Cafars came to Cafars Tyrannous towards the Christians. me, and without a Word speaking, one takes me by the Throat, dragging me along, and the other belaboured me with a Cudgel behind, making me go by force, pretending to lead me before the Soubachin at Nabelous. I could do nothing else in this Extremity, but call God to my Succour, and He forsook me not: For at that Instant, a [Page 303] very honest Turkish Gentleman seeing me thus basely used by these cruel Rascals, came out of his Tent, and took me by force [...]ut of their Hands, demanding of them what they would have for their Right? they asked Seven Sequins; which was a vast Summ out of the little Money I had remaining. At last this Turk so perswaded them in my Behalf, that they were contented with Six Pataques, which are worth about a Crown apiece, which he caus'd one of his Servants to carry for 'em. But afterwards one of these Cafars returned again, demanding of me half a Pataque more, and that by the same means I should go thank the Chec, the which it behoved me to do, by the Counsel of this Turkish Gentleman; and this Cafar gave me a little Paper, wherein was imprinted the Grand Signior's Mark. Behold the Treatment which I had at Nabelous, where the Christians are extreamly tyrannized over.
A little below this Place is a very fine Fountain, adorned with Marble and Stone; they say it is Jac [...]b's Well, or that of the Samaritan Woman. In [Page 304] the Evening my Turk came to me again, pretending ignorance of what had happened: But it behoved me to endure that also, and overlook it as my best way. The Chec continued two or three Days at Nabelous touching the Sick; for they present these sick People to him, and he stretches out their Arms and Legs: then for his Pains he has Money given him, which his Secretary receives, giving little Tickets like Countercharms, and Notes for it.
We had there great Rains, which we were forced to endure Day and and Night very patiently, without having any thing to shelter us: But seeing it continued without ceasing, I placed my self with these Three Turkish Brethren, not trusting my self any longer with my Turk, and followed them into the City, with my little Baggage, not knowing then where this my gallant Mouquary was. We took up our Quarters in an old Vault full of Spiders: This Vault is An Ancient Vault. so ancient, that they say 'tis above Three Thousand Years since it was made. In this Place lodge the Camels, [Page 305] and the Caravans, which go and come. I tarried thus in this dark Hall amongst the Mules and Asses, not having my self so much as a Wisp of Straw to lie upon, and being so crowded that I could not lie down, but was forced to remain close by my Ass, who was very impatient; for I cou'd get him nothing to eat.
Having there passed this bad Weather, the next Day my Turk came to seek me out, pretending himself to be mighty busie in looking for me; but he was a Drunkard, and minded nothing else but drinking of Shirbet, which was sold in the Tents, from which he never stirred all the Day long, nor the very Night, and would fain have perswaded me also to go there to drink of this Liquor, which they swallow down hot: It's of a very unsavoury Tast, and blackish Colour; the Syrians call it Cody. In Tripoly are a great many Vaults like Taverns, where they most commonly go to drink this Shirbet, which is made of Seed and Water boiled together.
[Page 306] Leaving this Place, we went to pitch our Tents two or three Leagues from Jerusalem, in a Place where formerly was a Chapel, which is half ruined, and there is a pleasant Fountain hard by upon the way.
The 27th. of April, 1612. we arrived Arrival at Jerusalem. at Jerusalem, and were there first: Not far from the City I met with the Soubachy, or Governour, who came out with a great Number of Cavaliers, and all in good order, going to meet the Chec-Marabou. This Soubachy ask'd me if I was a Christian; and having answered, Yes, he commanded my Turk to take me to the Gate of Jafe, and to leave me there at the Gate until he had fetched me a Trucher-Man, which was a Greek, belonging to the Cadi or Judge. My Turk failed not to do what the other had commanded him, and made me tarry at the Gate of Jafe, where I was a long time waiting for the Trucher-Men, and an Officer of the Cadi, to visit my Baggage. They being come, caused me to enter into the City, and led me where the Religious dwell, where they view'd my [Page 307] things, leaving me with these good Men, whom I saluted. After Dinner, they gave me a Greek Trucher-Man to accompany me to Bethlehem, whither Bethlehem. I went, passing by the Fish-pond of Bersabee, and drank at a Fountain which is upon the Bridge: From Description of several Holy Places. thence we went to the Turpentine-Tree, where the Blessed Virgin reposed her self, going from Bethlehem; then to the Cistern, or Well, where the Star appeared to the Three Kings going to Worship our Lord; my Trucher-Man made me to drink of the Water which is very good: Not far from that Place we saw Jacob's Tower, which is almost quite ruined; after that, the Place where the Prophet Ely slept, upon a Rock along by the Highway; they shewed me still the Mark of his Body in the Rock: From thence we went to see the Field of the Shepherds, and near to that, the Five Cisterns which David caused to be made; there are Three of them open, and the other Two stopped up; they are all round in a Ring, some Three or Four Foot one from the other, about a little Stone's-cast from [Page 308] the Highway: We there found some Grecian Women, and Maids, who were drawing Water, which my Trucher-Man caused me also to drink of, being very excellent. When we came to Bethlehem, we went into the Monastery of Bethlehem. Monastery, which is a Place very agreeable; and then the Father Guardian, a good and devout Religious Old Man, put on his Ornaments, and gave me a lighted Wax-Tapor, shewing me all the Holy Places, and amongst others, the Place where our Lord was born; then the Place where the Three Kings worshipped, and and that where St. Jerome was buried, and other Places: But should I give an Account of all, I wou'd never have done; I therefore remit my Reader to the more particular Descriptions which have been made of these Places.
After having visited this Holy Place, on Saturday Morning the 28th. of April, and heard Mass, which was said upon the Manger, and bought some Beads which the Greeks make there, I went to see the Grotto where the Virgin fled, when Herod slew the [Page 309] Innocents. As I was coming out of this Place, I met some Greek Women, who came to desire me to give some Remedy to their sick Children, because they had heard that I was a Haquin, or Surgion. I instructed them, according to my small Capacity, and as that Place would permit. Round about the City of Bethlehem are Vineyards: It is now nothing but a lttle Village, full of old Ruines; and not far from thence is a Monastery, the Ruines of the City of Bethuly, where there is no Habitation. Bethuly.
As for the Place of the Manger, it is at this Day nothing but an old strong Vault, sustained with little Pillars of Marble to keep it from falling: The Vault is gilt with counterfeit Gold; they descend by ten or a dozen Steps: In the Place of the Manger is a great Marble-Stone.
After that, I reassumed my way to Jerusalem; where being come, it behoved me to sell my Ass to maintain me, as well at the entrance of the Holy Sepulchre, where I was to give 14 Sequins, which are about Twenty [Page 310] Crowns; as also to give my Turk, who so insulted over me, that I could scarce find Money enough to content him: He brought one of the Citiers, or Serjeants of the Cadi, to have me before his Master. When I had payed him by the Hands of my Trucher-Man, yet he almost deny'd that I had given him any thing, and would have done it, had not this Trucher-Man been with me to witness that I had payed him; and he was then contented: yet he alledged, that he had bought me an Ass, not having Money enough to pay for him, as if it behoved me to pay it, as if I had been obliged thereto, and that I had not given him enough for the Courtesie, which he would shew to be as much as the Principal which I had agreed with him for a Month. In the end, seeing my self so pestered with this Man, who threatened to have me before the Cadi, or Judge of Jerusalem, I was forced to pluck a Ring from my Finger, and give it him in the presence of the Trucher-Man. But I saw him no The Author quits his Turk. more, since I gave him a Letter to the Jew, Abraham Rabbi, to shew him [Page 311] that he had put me safe and found in Jerusalem, as he had promised.
The Saturday following, in the Evening, some Pilgrims that were there, and I, went to the Holy Sepulchre to do our Devotions; the Governour of the City having sent the Keys upon Request that was made to him, being there were lately Pilgrims arrived; and in entring the Church they cried to me Hada, which is to say, that I came the last; for the others had been there already to do their Devotions some Days before, and were minded to return there again upon this occasion: Being there, we went all in Procession; and the Father Bucher, a Cordelier, made a Sermon, shewing us every Place where our Saviour had suffered any Pain; as the Place where is the Pillar to which he was tyed and scourged: Then we went to the Holy Grave, where he lay and was buried; this is like a little Cupolo, having within, a great Number of lighted Lamps, and an Altar where they say Mass, which is upon the Sepulchre it self: From thence we went to Mount Calvary, and saw the Hole [Page 312] where the Cross was fasten'd, which is garnished on the inside with Silver; the Rock hard by, is slit to the bottom; there are some Signs of a Chapel below. After having heard there a short Sermon, we went to the Place where our Saviour was set, having the Crown of Thorns upon his Head; then where he was put Prisoner to wait for his Death and Passion, where he was anointed, which is a Stone of Marble as big as a [...]omb, compassed with Bars of Iron; and in short, all the Holy Places of Devotion which are within the Enclosure of the Holy Sepulchre. After that, at Break-of-Day, I heard Mass in this Place of the Holy Sepulchre, Confessing my self, and Communicating as devoutly as I could, in a Place so Holy and Venerable, and that with so much Contentment and Satisfaction, that I don't believe I ever received the like; rendering infinite Thanks to my God, for having preserved me from so many Perils and Dangers, and for having brought me into this Holy Place, here to do the Duties of a good Christian and Catholick.
[Page 313] Having thus finished my Devotions, I returned back to the Monastery, and after Dinner taking one of the Religious, with one named Grand Fils, a Parisian, who was also there: We went to the Street which is ca [...]led Dolorous Holy Place. through which our Lord passed, bearing his Cross; we there saw the Place from whence Veronica threw the Linnen from her Door upon our Lord's Face; then where Pilate said Ecce Homo; and the Places where St. Paul was put into Prison, where St. Stephen was Stoned, where the Virgin Mary was Buried; the Sepulchres of Joseph, and St. Anne; the Place or Mount of Olives, where our Saviour ascended into Heaven, leaving the Prints of his Feet in the Rock, but at present there is nothing left but the print of his Left Foot; the Turks having transported the Right into Solomon's Temple, as I was there told: Then the Place where our Lord wept over Jerusalem; the Place where Judas hang'd himself, where Lazarus was raised from the Dead, where the Three Maries went to seek our Lord, to desire him to come to see their Brother; [Page 314] and the Stone is still to be seen which our Lord sate upon: Then the Castle of Eniaus, where he made the Feast, where he healed the Blind, where St. Peter wept for his Fault: Then the Sepulchre of Absolon, which is cut in the Rock like a Tower, having upon it a Head of a wonderful bigness, and there is a Window on the side towards the Valley of Jehosaphat, through which they say the Children still cast Stones as they pass by, out of disdain that Absolon had made War upon his Father: Then the Place where our Lord fell into the Torrent of Cedron, the Marks of his Arms and Hands still remaining upon the Rock: Then where he was Interrogated u [...]der the Golden Gate; where he was put in Prison, in the House of Ann, upon Mount Sion; the Olive-Tree to which he was tyed, which is still green, and raised from the Ground round about; the Greeks hold this Place: Then the Stone of the Sepulchre, the Place where St. James was Beheaded, where Abraham would have sacrificed his Son Isaac, which the Aethiopians keep, and which is near to [Page 315] the Sepulchre. In short, all the other Holy Places which are in Jerusalem, and thereabouts, as they were shewed us by these Religious who conducted us.
Now for the City of Jerusalem, as Jerusalem Described. it is at this Day mightily diminished, from what it formerly was, it may be about as big as Blois, and is situated upon a Heighth amongst Mountains, not having any thing of plane but toward the side Jafa: 'Tis encompassed about with good Walls, built not so much in compass as was the ancient City, which was very great, as the Circuit and Ruines do still shew: They have left Mount Sion out, to take in that of Calvary. All the City is full of Ruines, and ancient Vaults, and inhabited by People of all Nations and Religions, as Jews, Greeks, Latins, Moors, Turks. The Governour of the City is called the Soubachin, who depends upon the Bassa of Damascus The Temple of Solomon is built very great and high, covered with Lead, and gilded; and all round about is built Places like Chapels: It is built with Freestone. This Place serves [Page 316] them for a Mosque, where the Turks will not suffer either the Christians, or Jews, to enter. The Country round about, as all the rest of the Holy Land, is incultivated and desart, full of old Buildings, and Ruines, and is very stony. In short, it throughly feels all over, and in every Place, the grievous Curse of Almighty God, for the Iniquities of the People whom he so loved, for whose sake he render'd this Country the most Agreeable and Fruitful in the whole World. This may serve for an Example to us Christians at this Day, who do so badly observe his Holy Law, to which, by his Grace, he has called us in the room of those whom he has cast off, for their Disobedience and Ingratitude. When I had satisfied my curious Devotion in all this, I came back to the Monastery, and the next Day I prepared for my Return, taking a Mule of the Atelas, and a Guide and Trucherman of the Christians, who was a Greek, to whom I gave Seven Sequins.
[Page 317] I then left Jerusalem on a Monday, Parting from Jerusalem. and passed through the Valley of Terebinte, where David overcame Goliah. In this Place we found a great Number of Cafars, but the Atelas spake for me to them, and so freed me from that Penalty.
From thence we passed by the House of Jeremiah, from which runs a pleasant Fountain, which Passengers drink of: Then we came to Ramah, Ramah. a little City, where we lodged at the French Consul's House, and the next Morning went to Jafa, tarrying there Jafa all that Day, waiting for the next Morning; we lay under an old Vault along by the Sea-side. This was a great City, and a good Port, but now all in Ruines, and there is but Three Towers to be seen entire, and some little Houses: There is here nothing to be found either to eat or drink, and you must bring your Provision if you have a mind to eat. The Morning being come, the Atelas giving order for our embarking, and having given us a Greek, with a great Boat like a Patache, we parted from thence [Page 318] the 1st. Day of May, and came to the City of Caesarea, which is quite ruined, Caesarea. and went to cast Anchor near Caiphas, in a Place where was formerly a Monastery. We went on shore to look for some fresh Water, and were refreshed by bathing our selves: There was with us a Turkish Chiaux, and a Janisary.
The next Morning leaving this Place, we went and cast Anchor a little below Mount Carmel, where Elias Mount Carmel. made his Abode; then passing along by St. John of Acre, formerly P [...]olemedes, Acre. a very pleasant City, upon the Sea-side, and where dwelt formerly the Knights of Malta; then we anchored before the City of Tyre, where some of us went on shore for Victuals, and Tyre. to see the Place where, they say, Sampson threw down the Temple upon the Philistines: This Place is all desart and ruined, and there is a great Number of Marble Pillars, and amongst others, one of a wonderful length and breadth, very smooth, and almost Seven Fathoms about, and seems as if there were Three in one, 'tis broke at one end: They say it is that which [Page 319] Sampson cast down, but that is false; for the Scripture tells us, that this was at Gaza, another City far from Tyre; so that these Pillars must be of some other ancient Building. We took some Refreshments in the House of a Greek, who makes Brandy under an old Vault. At Evening we returned to our Petache, designing to set sail after Midnight. As for the rest, this City of Tyre, or Sur, is quite ruined, inhabited only by some Moors, and Greek Christians, which live there in Vaults under the Ground. There is to be seen a great Number of Marble Pillars which keep up the Walls, being placed and layed cross one upon another, to hinder the Sea from undermining the Walls. This City was once of a vast Extent, but at present is like a Desart.
Parting from this Place before Day, we cast Anchor at Sydon, or Sayette, Sydon. where we saw upon a little Hill the House of the Canaanite, hard by the Sea-side. We went on shore for some Refreshments, and dined in the Ware-House of the Christians, with the Consul of that Place, who told me that [Page 320] some Days before came there a Ship Fortune of a Ship of Malta. of Malta, who had a Protection from M. Joseph Facardin, Governor of Sydon, and that this Vessel returning into the Sea to look for some Prize, had met with a Turkish Caramousin, whom she took, and boarded her with some Knights and Soldiers, who leaving their Admiral some Leagues from thence, came to Sydon to take in some Refreshments, and by chance the Brother of him who had lost the Ship was there at that time; who, when he saw his Brother's Ship, he cried out to the Moors of the City, How was it possible that they would suffer those Dogs, the Christian Robbers, (for so they call us,) to come thus within their very Port, after having taken their Goods. Whereupon those of the City immediately ran to Arms, and leaping into Boats, fell upon this Caramousin, and fought them on all sides: They within defended themselves valiantly, as long as their Powder lasted, but the most part of them being killed or wounded, the rest were forced to yield, and be carried into the City, where they had their Heads chopped [Page 321] off, being 16 in all. A few Days afterwards the Admiral sent his Boat to Sydon, to enquire after his Men; but there was Seven or Eight of them arrested and made Prisoners while I was there. The Consul told me moreover, That M. Joseph Facardin had promised him to let them escape in the Night-time, without the Knowledge of the People who were exasperated against them.
This Emir Joseph, commonly called the Ermine of Sydon, or Emir de Sayede, is very courteous and kind to the Christians, and is said to be descended from those ancient Kings of Jerusalem, who were of the Blood of the Princes of France; and this is he who is said to be since come into Tuscany to the great Duke, with an Intention to become Christian, and to propose Means to the Christian Princes how to chase the Turks from those Parts.
Leaving Sydon, we went to lie at Baruth, which is a Place very pleasant Baruth and delectable, having two little Fortresses upon the Sea-side. They say that this Baruth is the Place where [Page 322] St. George slew the Dragon, and delivered the Maid, as the Pourtrayes shew which are made thereupon.
The next Day, the 6th. of May, we arrived at Tripoly, where I continued Tripoly▪ for some Days, employing my self in gathering certain curious Plants, bearing excellent and odoriferous Flowers, of which I gathered a great quantity upon Mount Lebanus, and about the City of Tripoly; all which I lay'd safe up to carry to the King, as at my Arrival at Paris they were planted in the Garden of the Lovre which is before His Majesty's Chamber, whom I shewed several excellent Flowers.
The Bassa of Tripoly is a Man very Proud and Cruel; and I was told there, That once he being amorous of a very beautiful young Woman of one of the best Houses in the City, and seeing that he could not bring his Desires to pass by any sort of Artifice, he resolved to use Violence; and watching his opportunity when she went to the Stoves with her Mother, as it was their Custom; where presently going, he took this poor young Barbarous Cruelty of a Bassa. Woman by force, and having-had his [Page 323] Will of her, he took his Gangear, or Knife, made in the form of a Croisant, and ript her open quite from the Privy-Parts up to the Neck. Behold how these Barbarians give Satisfaction to their desires, how horrible and wicked sover they be!
I was also told how that this Bassa, at the Arrival of a certain French Ship, called the Dauphin, belonging to the Sieur de Moisset, had a mind to go on board her, where having been treated with all the Complaisance imaginable, at his coming out from thence one of his Favourites reproached him for eating with the Christians; at which he was in such a Fury, that he cast his Gangear at him, with which he so wounded him, that had not the Surgeon immediately dressed him, he had died thereof upon the Place. They relate several other cruel Acts and Violences of this Man, which are very ordinary and common to all these Race of Infidels.
After having tarried some time at Tripoly, I parted from thence the 18th. of May, and embarked to return to France. We passed along by the [Page 324] Isle of Cyprus the 21 st. and the 25th. we saw the Coast of Turkey, then the Mounts of Phenico and Sately, and not The Mounts of Phenico, and Sately. Rhodes. Candia. far from the Isle of Rhodes, which we left towards the North-West. After that, we passed by the Isle of Candiae, where we espied Two Turkish Caramousins, driving full sail upon us; but when they saw themselves too weak for our Vessel, they tacked about again: We chased them with our Shot, but Night coming on, they escaped us; they being in great Fear, and using their utmost endeavour with Sails and Oars to get themselves out of our reach. From thence we passed along by the Isle of Malta, and the 12th. Malta. of June faw the Isle of Sardania, which Sardania. we left to the North-East; and in the end, by the Grace of God, arrived at Arrival in France. Marsailles the 19th. of June. I made not long stay there, but only to carry a Letter which I had for Monsieur the First President of Varix, at Aix, from whence I returned again to Marsailles, and from thence came streight to Paris, where I arrived the 24th. of July, 1612. For which, God be Praised for evermore.
THE TRAVELS AND VOYAGES OF John Mocquet, INTO SPAIN. Being design'd to travel to other Places, and the Causes which made him desist there from.
BOOK VI.
BEING returned from Syria, and the Holy-Land, with quantity of curious Plants, and other rare things, which by my diligent Search in several Places I had procured to present to the King, and [Page 326] Queen-Regent, I failed not, so soon as I came to Paris, to go do my Reverence to Their Majesties, who were very glad to see my Rarities, and commanded that a fit Place should be given me in their Palace of the Thuilleries, Cabinet in the Thuilleries. there to frame a Cabinet of all sorts of Rarities, and other curious things which I had gathered together in all my Travels throughout the World. But after having so well begun what I had at that time in hand, I judged that to pursue it according to my Desire, it would be necessary for me to undertake some more Voyages, and I had no less design than to encompass the whole World, first by way of the Occident, and from thence by the Orient to return again into our Occident; an Enterprize, I must confess, so great, that the only Presumption of so much as ever having it in my Mind, I believe would have gained me Glory enough; and yet I hoped, that by the Grace of him who had always conducted me every where, I should have been able to have brought it to pass. But I was defeated of these my Purposes by the Occasions following.
[Page 327] With this Intention then I left Paris, and followed Their Majesties to Tours, in the Voyage which they made there in the Year 1614. in July. From thence I embarked upon the River Loir, to go to Nantes, and to St. Leiger, to wait for occasion and conveniency to pass to Portugal, from whence I was to pursue my Designs. But having put out to Sea, the Wind turned so contrary, that we were forced to draw back to St. Leiger, tho' not without a deal of Trouble; and there hearing that the King was at Nants, I took the Occasion to go there to furnish my self with some Passports which I had forgotten, and which I judged needful for my Voyage.
This being done, I returned to St. Leger, but I found that the Vessel in my absence had set sail, having a right Wind; and which was worse, had also carried away all my Provisions which I provided for the Passage, with some other things, which I never could hear of since. This was a great Hindrance to me, and also an unlucky Presage for my grand Design. Yet it hindred [Page 328] me not from embarking as well as I [...] into Spain. could in another Ship of Aulonne which was going to Andalusia: The Ship was called the Florisand, and the Master Franchois Micha [...]d. We first of all put in at Aulonne, then with a right Wind we set out Seven or Eight in Consort, for so many Ships we were in all, bearing to wards Spain; and having continued some time upon the Sea, and given chase to some Cruisers, we arrived in the Cape of St. Vincent; and taking Cognizance of the Cape, we ran along by the shore near the Port des Algerves, where some of our Ships anchored to Traffick, and the rest bore to San Lucar de Baramede, where our Ship was bound, being laden with Cloth.
Being arrived in this Place, I began to think of some way how to transport my self to Sevilia, to get Knowledge as well in Physick, and the Art of Apothecaries, (of which the Practise is something different from ours,) as also to find means to pass to the East-Indies, and accomplish the Voyage which I had proposed to my self; Design of the Great Voyage. which was to go streight to Mexico, [Page 329] and from thence to embark for the Coast of the South-Sea, and so to follow the Coast of the East-Indies, along by China, Camboja, Siam, Malaca, Peru, Bengall, Coromandel, Malabar, Goa, Diu, Ormus, and from thence to return by Land through Persia, and Babylon, to Aleppo, and from thence by Sea repair to France, my own native Country; thus to accomplish so great a Voyage, and by the Example of those famous Heroes, Magallan, Drake, Cavendish, and Oliver Van d [...]r Nort, to encompass the whole Universe. But God had otherways disposed thereof, and for my own Good; his Pleasure being always Just, for his own Glory and our Salvation.
Parting then from San Lucar, following the Mareme, along by the great River Guadalquivir, I came to Seville, Seville. and immediately placed my self in the Shop of the most famous Apothecary of the whole City, in the Street called di los Francos: The Master was named Alonso Rodrigo, a Portuguese, with whom I continued for some time, both to learn the Language, of which [Page 330] I had already some Knowledge, and to have also some Knowledge of Drugs, of which this Man made the greatest Traffick: For he had Two or Three great Magazines in his House, and as much or more in other Places of the City, where his Children put off the Drugs.
After having tarried some time with him, I left him, for the great Desire I had to find an Occasion to embark; but I was still detained by another, named Juan Sancha, who had also dwelt with this Rodrigo, and was Apothecary to the Army, and the Frontier Cities in Africa, for the King of Spain: He was to have a Shop at Marmorre, a Place which the Spaniards had newly taken in Barbary, and laboured mightily to perfect this Shop which he was to send to this Fortress. I tarried then to help him, and continued there from the 3d. of November to the 8th. of January, until his Shop was finished. From thence I went to walk in the Fields to take the fresh Air, because of the great Filth of this City of Seville, which causes there [Page 331] a very bad Air, which is pursued by a great Number of Diseases.
As I was traversing on Foot some Mountains, to observe the Nature of Trees, I met with an honest Cavalier, named Pedro Sancha, as I knew since, who courteously invited me to come and lodge at his House in a little City called Corea, or Coria, not far from thence, which I could not well refuse. He entertained me very kindly, and I stayed there till the next Day; then I reassumed my way to the Mountains, where I was for some Days taking notice of the Plants, and found store of Rosemary, and a great quantity of Mastick-Trees, with which the Country is mighty abounding; amongst others, I gathered some Thistles called Chameleonis-Ally, some Flowers of Narcissus, and some Mandrake-Apples, which they call S [...]bollas de Villana: After that, when I saw that I had but bad Entertainment in these Desarts, where most commonly I found nothing but Water, and some Raisins to eat, and sometimes a little Bread, in the Shepherd's Cabins, I returned towards Corea, and visited my honest [Page 332] Host, the Sieur Pedro Sanche, who was very glad to see me, and made very much of me. He afterwards came to see me at Seville, to have the Interpretation of some Receipts which had been given him for his Wife who was with Child.
From thence I returned to Seville, where the Sieur Juan Sanche, the Apothecary, would have perswaded me to tarry with him; but I had my Voyage of the Indies so in my Head, that I had no mind to tarry there, but took my way streight to St. Luear, and sailed along the River, with a great many other Persons for Company in a Boat.
We arrived in the Night-time at St. Lucar, and I went to lodge with my former Host, who was called Bastanuil Biscain. I continued there for some Days to wait for an Occasion to embark: But my bad Fortune would have it so, that the Vessels which were then in the Port, durst not venture out, because they had Advice, that from Argier, and other Places of Barbary, were put out to Sea near Fifty Vessels, who guarded the Coasts, [Page 333] and were separated 10, 15, and 20 Ships, towards each Height and Cape, where they thought they were to pass; so that they took all they could meet with.
Seeing my self thus retained, and without much Commodities to live by, having already spent the most part of what I had, I was constrained, in expectation of better Conveniency, to place my self with an Apothecary of St. Lucar, who made me promise to serve him for some time. But as Fortune never left Persecuting of me, so this poor Man returning one Night from Supper in the City, was arrested Prisoner by the Command of the Duke of Medina Sidonia; and after that, the Justice came to his House and seized upon all his Papers, where the Alg [...]aziles, or Sergeants made a strange Ravage. They accused him for having made some Libel against the Duke. I spent this Night with no small Trouble and Uneasiness.
The next Day I went again into the Fields to go towards the Port St. Mary, where I made so much hast, after having passed many Places by [Page 334] Water, and bad way, that I arrived there at Night in Company of a Religious Jacobin, who shewed me a great deal of Courtesie, and caused me to lodge with him in the House of a Muleteer. The Day following, I took the way of Xerez de la Frontera, and had no small Trouble before I could come there, for the great Abundance of Waters which I found by the way. At last, having escaped them as well as I could, and being very weak in regard of the great Hunger I endured, by good Fortune I met with two Men in sight of Xerez, who courteously invited me to eat with them; and being sate down to eat, they fell to discoursing of several Things, and amongst others, came upon my Subject, speaking of Hunger, and that it is the most easie to be supported, when one stirs not from a Place without doing any thing, or when one is at Work, and thinks of doing some other thing: At last one of them concluded, that he was sensible of more Hunger when he was doing nothing, than when he was at work, and found that there was some [Page 335] reason for it, in regard that Action diverts the Thoughts: And I remembred that I heard reported, how that the several sorts of Plays, as Cards, Dice, Tables, and others, were at first invented to amuse Men during a great Scarcity of Victuals, and by this means to divert them from thinking upon their Hunger. And therefore 'tis said, That Drake, that samous English Captain, returning home from his great Voyage about the World, (which he had encompassed,) one Day, as he found himself in great necessity of Victuals, and saw his Men ready to starve with Hunger, he caused them to play to divert themselves; and when they were thirsty, he advised them to sleep to refresh themselves. This Scarcity was so great, as I have heard some English say, That they were forced to eat some Blacks which they had brought along with them, and having found near England a Vessel loaded with Victuals, they eat so much thereof, that the most part of them died by over charging themselves.
[Page 336] But to return to Xerez: Being arrived Xerez. there, tho' not without abundance of trouble, passing through the City▪ I by chance found my self near the Shop of an Apothecary, where there was some Surgions discoursing together. When they saw me, they cast out some Words of Mocking, because of my Garb, à la Francois: But I returning towards them, told them a few Words of Chirurgery in Latin; which they being ignorant of they knew not what to answer, except by naming to me, to surprize me, a certain Composition called Hieralogod [...]i; but I asked them, if they knew not whether it was Hierapachii? which is one and the same thing; at which they were put to a Nonplus. And thus I left them there, and kept on my way, and by good Fortune met in this City with a French Man, a Britan, who lived with a Cavalier, and took me along with him, where he made as much of me as he could. There I found a Persian Slave, who hearing me speak of his Country, and the East-Indies, was so overjoy'd, that he called me his Kinsman, and made [Page 337] me as good Chear as he could in this House, where he had much Credit.
This City of Zerez is situated on high in a very pleasant Country, as all the rest of the Province of Andalousia, and is not far from the little River Ovadal [...]t, famous for the great Battel fought there, where Roderick the last King of Spain lost his Life, with all his Nobility, at which time the Moors render'd themselves Masters of all Spain. The Soil is very fertile in Corn, Wines, Oil, and all sorts of Fruit, and produces also those excellent Horses call'd Gennets.
When I was there, I was told how that the Judge of that Place, whom the King of Spain had established there, not having a mind to do a piece of Injustice, as the Gentlemen and Hidalgo's of the City desired him, they had invited him to a Supper, with an Intention to put an Affront upon him; but he doubting of their Ill-will, would not go to them: At which they being vexed, made his Image, and burnt it in a Fire before his own Door in a Bravado; and in the mean [Page 338] time, he not daring to stir out of his House, which was as it were besieged by them. Upon which, his Wife went strait to Court, to make her Complaint to the King, and to demand Justice of him, which was granted her: For the King of Spain commanded these insolent Hidalgo's, or Gentlemen, to come before him, and ordered their Process to be drawn immediately, and condemned them every one to have their Heads chopp'd off. But when they said for Excuse, that they were drunk when they put this Affront upon the Judge, they were pardon'd, and had his Grace, except Two Brothers, who never would confess themselves to be drunk when they play'd this Prank, and were so glorious, that they chose rather to have their Heads cut off, than to confess the same, as the rest had done. And hereupon came the Proverb, That Los Hidalgos di Xerez Son Borrachos, The Gentlemen of Xerez are Drunkards.
[Page 339] After having tarried some Days at Xerez, I returned to the Port St. Mary, expecting to find an occasion for my Embarkment: But being there, I could not by my utmost Endeavour, procure License to pass to the Indies, in regard of the rigorous Injunction not to suffer any Strangers to go to the Indies, but especially the French; yet if I had had Money to give, perhaps I might have had this Permission; but I had not so much as a Maravedis, nor Hopes to meet with any there, besides that I found my self somewhat indispos'd. All this, with the bad Entertainment which I receiv'd amongst these People so Uncharitable and Discourteous, gave me cause to desire my Return, and thought to embark my self in some Aulonno [...] Ships, to return with them to France; and indeed I gathered together some rare Plants, which I put into a Vessel, with some other things, of which I never since could hear any notice, but that they had cast all into the Sea. In the mean time I wondred why this Ship did not set sail, but she was hindred [Page 340] by the Decrease of the Moon; for the Sea does so follow the course of this changing Planet, that it is taken notice, that the Ebbing and Flowing is in the heighth, when the Moon is in Conjunction.
This Ship of Aulonne which I waited for, was called the Gift of God, and belonged to one Peter Bled: In the mean time the Vessel departed without taking me in, and I remain'd there in no small trouble and misery; and had no other Recourse, but to put my self into a Boat which I found going to Calix, not far from thence; and nevertheless we had no small Trouble in our Passage, because of the contrary Winds. We at last went on shoar in a desart Place, about a League from Calix, to which Place I went on foot along by the shore: I there found Acquaintance, but I could not stay there long, because the City was filled with Soldiers belonging to the Army of Dom Lous de Fajardo, Admiral of the Spanish Fleet, who was just returned from Mamorre, which he had taken from the Moors, and [Page 341] had there found a great Number of Pyrates, of whom some he had hanged, and put the rest to the Oar; the rest were partly sunk, and some burnt themselves in despair, rather than thoy would yield.
This Ci [...]y of Calix, or Cadis, was Calix. the Gades so famous in ancient times, Gadis. where 'tis said that H [...]rcules, after having overcome the Gerions, planted his memorable Pillars, as being the end and utmost Bounds of Navigation at that time; but since, in these last Ages, the P [...]rtugals and Spaniards have happily found the Plus Ʋltra, which has given them Passage at their Pleasure through all the Orient and Occident. These Gad tan [...]an Pillars were upon the Two Mountains Abyla and Calpe, placed upon the Extremities of the Straights, one in Africa, and the other in Europe side, now Ceuta and Algezira; or else the true Ceuta. Pillars compos'd of Tin, Gold, and Algezira. Silver mixed together, which were by Hercules put into the Temple of the Parques, and afterwards in the Temple Parques. dedicated to him in the City of [Page 342] Gades. This Straight has since been called Gibraltar, or Gabel-Tarif, which signifi [...]s Mount of Tarif, in Memory of that Renowned Captain who commanded in Chief in the Saraz [...]n War, which began the Conquest of Spain.
The City of Gades in ancient times was not very Populous, and is at this Day a little City, celebrated for the Salt-pits, and Almadraves, or the Fishing for the Tonny. This was formerly an Isle distant above 700 Paces from the main Land; but at present there is only a little Causey which separates it therefrom.
Seeing then that I could not conveniently tarry at Calix, I went into the Fields towards an old ruined Tower, which they call the Tower of Hercules, not far distant from the Straights. I found there some rare Plants, which I loaded my self withal, and saw this Tower, into which I entred, though not without a great deal of trouble, because the Sea beats against it; and besides, there came such a furious Wave, that I thought it would have [Page 343] carried me away. This Building is so well wrought, and appears so entire, that it seems not to have been 20 Years since it was built. Now, as I was amongst these Ruines, I saw a great Wolf approach towards me, which I thought at first to be an Ass; but after having known what it was, I kept my self still, and let it pass along by me, without stirring a Foot, for I saw that it was looking for Food. Not far from these Ruines I found a Temple, where I enter'd, and it looked like an Azoy, or Mosque, after the Turkish manner; yet there is an Altar set up, where sometimes they say Mass.
As I was returning towards Calix, I found the Sea mightily risen, so that I was a little wet in repassing the same; and had I stayed but a little longer, I had had a bad Nights Lodging there: At last I passed over, and found in my way a good old Man, who discoursed a great while with me about all these Antiquities; and how that in those Days there was more Men morally Good than now, though they [...] [Page 346] and from thence I came to a Place named Chipione, where having gotten some Money by certain Cures, I returned to San Lucar, and from thence to Sevillia, where I was forced to continue for some time and joined my self with a certain Apothecary, who lived in the Triane, or on the other side of the Bridge. This Triane is a Suburb on the other side the River of Qu [...]lquiver, which hath a Castle, where is the Inquisition, or Holy-Office, as they call it. This Apothecary made Profession of Christianity, but was held for a Jew, as he made it appear to me; for he treated me but scurvily, notwithstanding the Service that I did him in his Alquitarres, or Limb [...]cks. I endured a great deal of Hardship with him, and became extream sick with a Vom [...]ing, and a Bloody-flux, so that I thought I should have died, and had no small trouble to recover my self; never receiving Help from this Jew, or any of his.
Whilst I was there, I remember that they of the Parish of St. Ann, or the Suburb of Triane, made a Procession on Palm-Sunday in the Evening, [Page 347] carrying all lighted Wax-Candles, and sung a Hymn in Honour of the Blessed Virgin, to shew that she was conceived without Original Sin; to which they applied the Words of the Royal Psalmist, Coeli enarrant gloriam Dei; & in sole posuit tabernaculum suum, &c. and other such-like things. And hereupon the whole City of Seville was in an Uproar, and there were some Priests themselves put into the Inquisition, because they had the Boldness to maintain, that the Virgin was conceiv'd in Sin; insomuch that there was likely to be a great Tumult; and my Jew was then in such fear, that he durst scarcely stir out of his House, though he was of this same Parish. There was some, who either out of Fear, or Devotion, wore, writ upon their Hatbands in great Letters, these Words, Sin pecado Original voto a tal: to shew that they believed, or would have others believe. At the same time they caused to be out before the great Church in Seville, upon a Marble-Table, in golden Letters, Concebid [...] sin pecado Original.
[Page 348] Leaving then my Apothecary, still sick as I was, having found some Friends who lent me Money, I returned towards San Lucar, in Hopes to find Means to embark my self, not for the Indies, (of which I had lost all Hopes,) but to return into France: But as my bad Fortune would have it, not far from San Lucar I was Robbed in the Pinars; and coming to San Lucar, I soon found out who it was that had robbed me, but I du [...]st scarce speak thereof for fear of worse; besides there, as in other Places, Justice is very difficult to be had without Money. At last, having found an Opportunity to go for France, we parted, (Ten Return into France. Ships we were in Consort, and held our course far out in the Sea, for fear of the Ships of Tunis: The Ship wherein I was, was of Incuse in Holland, and the Captain was named Jan Taye.
Now one Day, when it was a great Calm, this Captain invited on board his Ship the Admiral, and Vice-Admiral, with other Captains, who had treated him before: And after having made good Cheer together, and drunk [Page 349] plentifully of these Spanish Wines, they withdrew themselves each one on board his own Ship. In the mean time the Wind began to rise, and we were forced to change the Sails; but all the Mariners, and the Pilot himself, were so drunk, that they knew not what they did: When he who was at the Helm commanded to set to the Larboard, they hal'd to the Starboard, having the Wind in their Faces; one cried this way, another that way, it being the greatest Confusion in the World, not one understanding what another said. When I saw that, I took the Helm my self, and brought the Ship fairly before the Wind; then came a French Mariner, who was just come out of Captivity from Barbary, and had not drank so much as the rest. I quitted the Bar to him, because I was bid to beware of the Captain, who was in a great Rage against me: Nevertheless that hindred me not from going to find him out upon the Deck, where he was still emptying some Bottles of Wine with his Mariners. As soon as he saw me, he began to mutter something to himself; whereupon [Page 350] I took up a Cup and drank to him, which pacified him a little, and told me that he was very angry with me; and having asked him the Cause, he shewed me his Arm, scarce being able to speak, meaning to tell me that I had never a Lancet to let Blood. Hereupon I doubted that a wicked Norman had told him of that; for in parting from San Lucar I had told him how I had been Robb'd, yet I had made Provision of Medicines to cure the Sick when there should be occasion; and I had cured the Captain's own Brother of a certain Pain that he had in his Legs, which was no small Help to me; for ever since that time he was always my Friend against those who had a mind to do me any wrong, and especially this Norman, who made it his chief Business to exasperate these People against me, to the end that they might do me Mischief; but God preserved me from them. The next Day they took a poor Boy, a Fleming, who was a Passenger, and tied him fast to the great Sail-yard, to duck him into the Sea, because, as they said, he had been [Page 351] drunk, and had spoiled the Deck: He was thus hoised up Three times by the Sail-yard, and so duck'd in the Sea, after the Captain had first drank to him, which he pledged. 'Twas a great Pity to hear the Cries and Complaints of this poor Boy, and I was not able to behold a Spectacle so cruel, but withdrew my self below Deck, where in the mean time I heard them murmuring against me, at the Inspiration of this Norman, who had been Captain of a Ship in the New-found Lands, and was now a Passenger in this Vessel, having more store of Crowns than Good-nature.
After having sailed thus for some time, we arrived happily, by the Grace of God, at the Havre, the 15th. Day Arrival at Paris. of August, 1615. and from thence I went straight to Paris, which was the Term of all my Voyages, and of this last Peregrination, which was more troublesome and incommodious than long. But God be praised for all, to whom I render infinite Thanks that it hath pleased his Divine Goodness to preserve me from my Infancy to this time, from so many several Misfortunes [Page 352] and Difficulties which I have met withal: For I was but at my Mother's Breasts in the Year 1576. when my Father was Imprisoned at Meaux for being Surety for a Debt, which he was obliged to pay; and whilst he had Permission to provide accordingly, it behoved my Mother to supply his Place in the Prison with me; and thus began I betimes to resent the Miseries of the World, which since in greater Age [...] have experienc'd more fully, and more roughly, in regard of my almost-continual Absence from my native Country, in strange Lands, and remote Places, devoid of all Comfort, and exposed to all sorts of Miseries that could befall any Man; and moreover, since my Return into mine own native Country, I have not been exempted from the like Misfortunes and Calamities, having had but very little Support from Men, assisted only by the Providence of my God, who hath never forsaken me, but hath caused the Afflictions which he hath pleased to send me, to be an Object to several Persons of Honour to exercise towards me their Good and Laudable Charities.